Full text of "A narrative of four voyages : to the South sea, north and south Pacific ocean, Chinese sea, Ethiopic and southern Atlantic ocean, Indian and Antarctic ocean ; from the year 1822 to 1831 ..."

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LIBRARY

PRESENTED BY

THE ALUMNI FUND
COMMITTEE

FROM THE LIBRARY OF

CLIFFORD GRAY, '02S.
1924

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iiUPFORD GRAY COt-L^'-^f^a^

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ADVERTISEMENT.

In order to render the following Narrative more use-
ful to mariners, as well as interesting to the general
reader, I have occasionally availed myself of informa-
tion derived from other sources than my own personal
observation. In the course of my four voyages, 1
touched at many places at which I could not remain
long enough to enable me to make surveys, determine
soundings, or collect materials for accurate descrip-
tion ; yet without these and general sailing directions,
the work, as a whole, would have been imperfect. 1
have therefore to acknowledge my obligations to
several voyagers for some valuable information; for
the introduction of which, I am confident, none of my
readers will require an apology.

It will be observed that all the courses and bearings
in the work have been made by compass^ and that the
dates are according to nautical time.

The Author.
Netc- York, December ^ 1832.

CONTENTS.

iNTBcrrcTioN ...'•.-.........*.. Page 9

FIRST YOYAGE.

CHAPTER I.

Thoughts on a Polar Expedition — Objects of the present Voyage — Departure from
New-York — Fourth of July — Crossing the Equator — Visit from Father Nep-
tune — Arrival at St. Ann's Islands — Village of St. Joao de Macae — Cape
Frio — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — Directions for Entering the Harbour — De-
scription of St. Sebastian's — Its Trade and Commerce — Beauty of the sur-
rounding Country — Natural Productions — Character of the Inhabitants . . 29

CHAPTER II.

. Sailing Directions— Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz, with Instructions for ap-
proaching and entering — A Sabbath-day's Adventure — Description of the Na-
tives, their Size, Dress, Mode of Living, Origin, &c. — Survey suspended —
Arrival at the Falkland Islands — News of the Henry 37

CHAPTER III. _

The Falkland Islands — History, Description, and Natural Productions — Pen-
guin, Albatross, &c. — Description of a South Sea Rookery — Arrival at Port
Louis — Shooting Bullocks and Geese — Departure from Port Louis — A Search
for the Aurora Islands — Perilous Situation among Icebergs — Kergulen's Land
— Christmas Harbour — The Sea-elephant — Antarctic Seas, open and tem-
perate in lat. 64° 50' 49

CHAPTER IV.

Desolation Island, or Kergulen's Land — Christmas Harbour — Natural Produc-
tions — Oceanic Animals — Departure from the Island, towards the South Pole —
Cross the Antarctic Circle — Procure fresh Water from the Ice — Steer for Sand-
wich-land — Candlemas Isles — Southern Thul6 — Burning Volcanoes — Return to
the Antarctic Seas — Mild Temparature of the Air and Water — No Field-ice in
Lat. 70° 14' — Ice-islands and Icebergs ; their Formation — Practicability of
reachinff the South Pole — New South Greenland — Staten Land .... 62

•e

CHAPTER V.

Erroneous Ideas corrected — Staten Land — Strait of Le Maire — Natural History
of the Fur-seal and Sea-elephant — Exaggerated Accounts of Cape Horn Dan-
gers accounted for, and refuted — Doubling the Cape— Prevailing Winds and

ii CONTENTS.

Weather in that Region — Diego Ramirez Islands — Ildefonso's Island — Christ-
mas Sound — Western Entrance to the Strait of Magellan — The Wasp sails
from Staten Land, and arrives at the Eastern Entrance, from the Atlantic —
Enters the Strait, and anchors in the Harbour of Cape Negro 71

CHAPTER VI.

Strait of Magellan — Face of the Country — Hailed by a Troop of Patagonians —
Arrival at Port Famine — History of the Place — Ledger River — Natural Produc-
tions — An Excursion into the Interior — Ruins of Philipville — Cape Froward
— Indians of the Highlands described — A Visit to their Village — The Visit recip-
rocated — Excursion up the River Capac, accompanied by two Chiefs — Adven-
tures in returning — Filial Affection of a Cliief's Son — Character, Manners,
Habits, Customs, Employments, and Dress of the Natives — Their Canoes,
Arms,&c. — Their Want of Cleanliness, moral Condition, and probable Origin —
Enter the Pacific Ocean 82

CHAPTER VIL

Commence surveying the Western Coast of South America — Capes St. Isabel and
♦St. Lucia — Strait of Conception — Cape St. Jago — St. Martin's Island — Byers's
Strait — Island of Madre de Dios — Capes Three Pomts and Corso — Campana
Channel and Island — Port St. Barbara — Cape Nixon — Guayaneco Islands —
Inter%iew with a tribe of Indians called the Caucaes — A brief Description of
these Natives — The Fourth of July — The Wasp in a perilous Situation on a
Rock — Damages repaired — Anchors converted into Rudder Irons — Set Sail for
Mocha Island — Obtain fresh Provisions — Island of Santa Maria .... 98

CHAPTER VIII.

Bay of Conception and Port of Talcaguano — City of Mocha, or New Conception
— The River Biobio — Soil, Climate, and Natural Productions — Valparaiso Bay
and City — Kindness of the American Consul, Mr. Hogan — Santiago, or St.
Jago — Directions for entering the Harbour of Valparaiso — Climate, Winds, <&c.

— Valparaiso destroyed by an Earthquake — Amiable Character of Mr. Hogan —
Arrive at Port Coquinibo — Captain Hutchins, of Baltimore — Heave down the
Wasp to repair Damages — Directions for entering the Port of Coquimbo — De-
scription of the Town — Caution to Shipmasters — Villanous Attempt at Imposition

— Sail from Coquimbo — Pursued by an armed Force, which soon retreats — Islands
of St. Ambrose and St. Felix — An Adventure promised in the next Chapter 107

CHAPTER IX.

A Discovery — Inexcusable Barbarity — Hopeless Sufferings and joyful Preserva-
tion — Lobos Afuero— Lobos de Terra — Indian Catamarans, and Balzas — River
and Town of Tumbes — Pizarro in Peru — Port and Town of Tacames — Nat-
ural Productions— Volcanic Mountains— Height of Chimborazo — Cities of Quito
and Cuzco— Monuments of ancient Splendour — Walls of the Temple of the
Sun still standing — Ruins of the Incas' Palace— Gallapagos Islands — Elephant
Tortoises— Island of Juan Fernandez — Natural Productions — Escape of the
Convicts — Alexander Selkirk, or Robinson Crusoe 118

CHAPTER X.

Island of Masafuero — The River Maule— Captain and Crew arrested— A Prison
Scene — Symptoms of a bloody Crisis — Amicable Compromise — St. Valentine's
Day — Guests of Distinction— A nautical Breakfast strangely interrupted— False
Colours— Retaliation, or the Yankee Trick— Arrive at Valparaiso — The Wasp
changes Masters— Embark for the United States— Pilot a Ship through Magel-
lan's Strait — Touch at Pemambuco — Arrive at Salera—Gloomy Forebodings,
terminating in a fatal ReaUty— Visit to Stonington— Affecting Meeting— A
Father's Advice 130

CONTENTS.' iii

SECOND VOYAGE.

CHAPTER I.

Preparations for the Second Voyage — The Schooner Tartar selected and pur-
chased for the Purpose — A Matrimonial Contract — The Voyage commenced —
Island of Fernando Noronha, and the Roccas — Bahia, or the Bay of All Saints
— City of St. Salvador — Directions for entering the Harbour — Sail from Bahia —
Island of St. Catharme's — Island of Lobos — Rio de la Plata — Monte Video and
Buenos Ayres — The Falkland Islands — Strait of Magellan — Peninsula of the
Three Mountains — Social Affections of Seals — Moral Reflections . . . 143

CHAPTER II.

Peninsula de Tres Montes, and the adjacent Islands — Natives'of the Coast — Bene-
ficial Effects of foreign Missionaries, promoting the Interests of Commerce— A
new Field for ?vIissionary Labours — Archipelago of Chonos — Island of Chiloe —
Natural Productions — Town of St. Carlos — Religion, Character, and Manners
of the Inhabitants — Dress of the Females — Employments, Accomplishments,
and Amusements — Equestrian Exercises — Mode of Mounting their Horses —
Ponchos and Hammocks — The adjacent Countrv — Directions for Entering the
Port 157

CHAPTER III.

Bay and City of Valdivia — The Araucanians — Town of Pelchue — Retrospective
Observations — Towns of Colema and Chilian — Province of Chilian — Arrive at
Valparaiso — Continue the Survey of the Coast — Province and City of Copiago
— Bay and Town of Pisco — Sailing Directions, &c. — The Bay or Roads of Cal-
lao — The Blockade and Siege of Callao — General Rodil refuses to Surrender —
The Tartar enters without Ceremony 163

CHAPTER IV.

The Port of Callao — Destniction of the Town in 1746 — Condition of the Place ia
1824— Closely invested by Land and Sea— Did not " catch a Tartar" — The City
of Lima — Sail from Callao — Arrive at Quilca — Visit the City^of Arequipa — Sail
from Quilca — Arrive at Port Santa — Cruise along the Coast — Port of Guant
chaco — City of Truxillo — Bay of Caraccas, and the surrounding Country — View
of Chimborazo — A Nation in the Clouds — Volcano of Pinchinca — Eruption of
Cotopaxi — Sail from Caraccas Bay — Arrive at Cocos Island 173

CHAPTER V.

Cocos Island — Gallapagos Islands — Eruption of a Volcano on Narborough Island
— Critical Situation of the Tartar — A fruitless Search for Gallego and other ima-
ginary Islands — Arrive on the Coast of California — Island of Guadaloupe—
Cerros Island — Bay of St. Francis — Near to our native Land, and yet far from
it — The Gulf of California and River Colorado — Anew Route from the United
States to the Pacific Ocean — Old California — Cenezos Island — Port San Diego
iu New California — Character of the Inhabitants, &c 191

CHAPTER VI.

A hunting Excursion — The Party attacked by a hostile Tribe of Indians — A des-
perate Battle — Victory doubtful — The Savages defeated — A safe Return to St.
Diego — Sail to the North — Arrive at Monterey — Mission of San Carlos and
San Antonio — Mutiny on board the Asia sixty-four — Farallone Islands — Port St.
Francisco — Description of the Country and Inhabitants — Mission of St. Clara
— Cape Blanco in the Oregon Territory — Change our Course to the South-
Island of Socorro — Steer for the West — Sandwich Islands • k • * 802

iv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER YII.

Sail from the Sandwich Islands — Northern Polynesia — Bird's Island — Man-ol-
war Rock — Lisiansky Island — Caution to Navigators — Pearl and Hermes
Isljind — Byers's Island — An unknown Island — Steer towards the Continent —
Clipperton's Rock — A Wild-goose Chase for St. Vincent Island — Arrive at the
Gallapagos Islands — Return to the Coast of Peru — Bay and Town of 8echur;i
— City of Piura — Directions for entering the Port of Sechura — Bay and 'J'own
of Payta — Port of tSt. Pedro — Bay and Town of Ferrol — Natural Productions —
^ Cinchona, or Peruvian Bark — Animals, &c. — Arrive at the Port of Chorillos 215

CHAPTER VIII.

Isthmus of Darien — Letter from a Traveller — Town of Porto Bello — How to pre-
/ vent a wet Jacket — An excellent Dinner, and Wine with an Excellency — Canoe
Navigation — Gloomy Prospects — Town and River Chagres — Ascending the
River — Crossing the Isthmus — Town of Cruces — The Pizarro Road — Coming
to an Anchor — Emotions excited by a first View of the Pacific — City of Panama
•—Importance of a Passport — Projected Canal across the Isthmus — Ruins of old
Panama — An Earthquake — The Gulf of Panama 231

CHAPTER IX.

Surrender of the Castles of Callao, by General Rodil, to the Patriots — Dreadful
Effects of the Siege — General Quintanilla surrenders the Island of Chiloe — Visit
the Ruins of Pachamcamac, a magnificent Temple of the Sun — Homeward-
bound — Strait of Magellan — Two Excursions into the Interior — Entertained
by a Tribe of Patagonians — Their Stature and Hospitality — Human Skeletons
of a gigantic Size — Touch at the Falkland Islands — A fruitless Search for Island
Grande — Arrive at New-York 243

THIRD VOYAGE.

CHAPTER I.

The Schooner Antarctic, built expressly for this Voyage — Sails from New- York
— Reflections on leaving Land — A vertical Sun — ^Arrive at the Cape Verd
Islands — General Description of the Group — Island of St. Antonio, with its
natural Productions — St. Lucia — St. Vincent — St. Nicholas — Natural Produc-
tions — Indolence and Slavery — A Peep at the Interior — Condition of the vSlaves
— The Influence of Music — Abundance of Fish — Island of Sal — Dreaiy Aspect
of the Country — Arrive at the Island of Bonavista . . .... 253

CHAPTER IL

Island of Bonavista — Town and Harbour — Interview with the Governor — The
Art of Begging illustrated — View of the Island — Natural Productions — Sail-
ing Directions — The Leton Rocks — Island of Mayo — St. Jago, or Santiago —
Port Praya — Breakfast with the Captain-general — A walk with the Ladies — A
Peep at the Country — View the Fortifications — Military Establishment — A
Dinner-party — Bay and Anchorage — Volcano of Fogo, or Fuego — Island of
Brava — Imaginary Dangers 264

CHAPTER III.

The Cape of Good Hope — A Brief History and Description of the Colony — Sal-
danha Bay — St. Helen's Bay — Berg or Mountain River — The Vale of Draken-
stein — Oliphant or Elephant River — Koussie River — Cape Voltas — Volcanic
Productions — Projected Speculation — The Gariep or Orange River — Angras
Juntas Bay — Whale Bay — Possession Island — Elizabeth Bay — A Peep at the

CONTENTS. V

I
Interior — Angra Pequena, or Santa Cruz — Ichaboe Island — Mercury Island — In-
tercourse "wath the Natives — Bird Island — Sandwich Harbour — WalwichBay 378

CHAPTER IV. ,

Excursion into the Interior — Description of the Natives — Face of the Country— '
Natural Productions — Sudden and transitory Vegetation — Droves of Elephants
— Return to the Vessel — Sail from Walwich Bay — Arrive at Mercury Island —
A most afflicting Disaster, in the Loss of Ogden — Tribute to his Memory — Ar-
rive at Point St. Helen — Wreck of the English Brig Columbine — An Offer to
save her Cargo rejected — Arrive at Table Bay — Description df the Place — Sail-
ing Directions — Phenomenon of the Tablecloth — Sail from Table Bay, and
again steer to the North 300

CHAPTER V.

Robben or Penguin Island — Dassen or Coney Island — Arrive at Angra Pequena
— Sand-v^rinds, and a moving Column of Sand — Intercourse with the Natives—
The Guinea-worm — A Horde of Macasses, or Makosses — Ogden's Harbour-
Cape Frio, or Cold Cape — Great Fish Bay — A Tribe of the Cimbebas -Ex-
cursion into the Interior — Port Alexander — St. Philip Benguela — St. Philip's
Bonnet — Province, Bay, and Town of Benguela — Anchorage, Landing, Soil,
Climate, Productions, Water, &c. — Animals, Vegetables, and Minerals — De-
scription of the Coast — Sailing Directions 311

CHAPTER VI.

Visit to a Slave Brig — Cruelty and Suffering — Slaves flogged to Death — Strength
of conjugal Affection in an African — An affecting Scene — Beard the Tigers in
their Den — Cowardice of Guilt — How to abolish the ^lave-trade — English
Colony of Sierra Leone — United States' Colony of Liberia — Sail from Benguela —
Homeward-bound — Island of Ascension — The Fourth of July, and a vertical Sun
— Arrive at New- York — Kind Reception by the Owners, and a still kinder one
by somebody else 334

CHAPTER VII.

A Sister's Inquiry for her Brother — An Evasive Answer — The Fatal Truth dis-
closed — A Mourning Family — Pious Resignation — A Funeral Sermon— Dis-
charge the Cargo — Visit Stonington — Preparations for another Voyage in the
Antarctic — Domestic Affairs — A Wife resolved to accompany her Husband —
Vain Expostulations — Arguments pro and con — The Embarkation — The Pilot
dismissed 334

FOURTH VOYAGE.

CHAPTER L

Departure of the Antarctic — Good Qualities of the Schooner — The Captain's
Wife on board — Beauties of a dying Dolphin — Sudden Death of Francis Pat-
terson — Arrive at Bonavista — Arrive at Porto Praya — Steer for the South — The
Crew assailed by Fever — The Lady suffering under the same Disease — Dis-
tressing Situation of the Antarctic — Death of Mr. Geery — Death of Mr. Spin-
ney — The Prospect darkens — A Wife's dying Request to her Husband — A Dawn
of Hope — The Sick begin to recover — Arrive at Tristan d'Acunha, and procure
Refreshments 241

CHAPTER IL

Island ofTrist.in d'Acunha — King Lambert — Governor Glass — Gongh's Island—
Kerguelen's Land — Cape Desolation — Lord Auckland's Group — New-year's

-vi CONTENTS.

Festivities — Learning to walk — Natural Productions of the Island — The
Schooner Henry, Captain Johnson, their probable Fate — The Snares — Stew-
art's Isle, or South Cape of New-Zealand — Molyneux's Harbour — Intercourse
with the Natives of New-Zealand ... 853

CHAPTER III.

!New-Zealand — Intercourse with the Natives — Their Habitations, Apparel, Work-
ing tools, and Weapons — Eating Human Flesh — Face of the Country — I3anks's
Peninsula — Cook'sCape, Harbour, and Strait — Visit from the Natives — Women
an Article of Traffic — East Cape — Mercury Bay — Great Utility of Missionaries —
Bay of Islands — Royal Visiters — Visit to the Mission — Orderly Arrangement —
Sail to the North — The New-Hebrides — Hope Island — Steer to the West —
New Discoveries anticipated 365

CHAPTER IV.

New Discoveries — Westervelt's Group — An ominous Dream — A perilous Situa-
tion — Extricated by a dexterous nautical Manoeuvre — Bergh's Group discovered
— Livingston's Island — Arrive at Manilla — Philippine Islands — Luconia —
City and Bay of Manilla— A Hint to the Ladies 376

CHAPTER V.

Sail from Manilla for the Feejee Islands — Discover Skiddy's Shoal — Islands 'of
Los Matires — Visit Bergh's Group — Discover Skiddy's Group — Visit Young
William's Group — Interview with the Natives — Intended Treachery defeated —
Visit Monteverdeson's Islands — Description of the Natives — Indications of
Hostilities — An Attempt to board the Antarctic — Continuation of the Voyage
— Discovery of the Massacre Islands — Friendly Disposition of the Natives 387

CHAPTER VL

Massacre Islands — Commence building a House — A Garden planted — Friendship
of Henneen, the Island Chief — Friendly Disposition of the Natives — Precau-
tions against Surprise — Symptoms of Perfidy, Duplicity, and Dissimulation —
Drawn into an Ambuscade — Disarm a Host — Amity and Confidence restored —
Specious but hollow Professions of Good-will — The Alarm — The Massacre —
The Battle — The Rescue — Cannibalism — Deplorable Situation of the Survivors
— Sail from the Islands — Arrive at Manilla 403

CHAPTER VIL

Sail from Manilla for the Massacre Islands — The Bay and Town of Taal — Port
and Town of St. Joseph's — Ladrone Islands — Arrive at Bergh's Group —
Friendship of the Natives — Their Canoes, Fishing Implements, &c. — Beauty
of the Women — Strength and Agility of the Men — Theological Notions-—
Marriages, Deaths, Wars, &c. — Description of their Weapons, Houses, and Vil-
lages — Domestic Arrangements — Fertility and Capabilities of the Soil — Im-
portance of this Discovery — Equipments necessary for a Voyage to these
Islands — Depart for the Massacre Islands 416

CHAPTER VIIL

Monteverdeson's Group — Treachery of the Natives — Attack on the Antarctic re-
pulsed — Wholesome Chastisement — Arrive at the Massacre Islands — Assailed
by the Cannibals, who are repulsed with Loss — Fire upon the Town — Beneficial
Result — Leonard Shaw, supposed to have fallen in the general Massacre,
alive, and liberated from a horrid Slavery — Excitement of the Crew — Purchase
of an Island — A Castle in the Air — Suspicious Movements — A brief Sketch of
the Sufferings of Leonard Shaw, during a Captivity of more than Fifteen Weeks
among th« Cannibals 435

CONTENTS. vii

CHAPTER IX.

Massacre Islands — More Treachery — Wallace's Island invaded — Tha Castle at-
tacked — The Assailants defeated — Henneen slain — Massacre Island evacuated
by the Natives — The Antarctic's Crew land — Interment of the Martyrs' Sculls —
Holmes's narrow Escape — The Enterprise abandoned — Sail for Bouka Island —
St. George's Channel — New-Ireland — The Natives — Fertility and natural
Riches of the Country — New-Britain — Dampicr's Island 448

CHAPTER X.

New-Britain — New-Guinea — Dekay's Bay — Description of the Natives — Natural
Productions — Birds of Paradise — Requisites for a Voyage thither — Livingston's.
Cape — Burning Mountains, with Volcanic Eruptions — Cape Woodbury, and
Woodbury Harbour — Another new Discovery — The Antarctic attacked — The
Natives astonished — Sunday and Monday taken — Return to Manilla — Health
and Fidelity of the Crew — Directions to Ship-masters — Importance of Cleanli-
ness and wholesome Food — Vegetable Acids, &c 468

CHAPTER XI.

Disappointed Hopes — Take Freight for Cadiz — Touch at Singapore to lighten
the Vessel — Description of the Place — Climate, Soil, Health, and Beauty of the
Country — An Aerial Excursion — Delightful Prospects — Sail from Singapore —
The treacherous Malays — Precautious necessary to be observed — Double the
Cape of Good Hope — Saldanha Bay — Necessary Repairs — Island of St. Helena
— Tomb of Bonaparte — History and Description of the Island — The Azores
— Cadiz — Bordeaux — Homeward Bound — Safe Arrival — Melancholy News —
The Conclusion 469

. %

INTRODUCTION.

COMPRISING

A BRIEF SKETCH OF
THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE.

In appearing thus before the public, and for the first time — not only
as an author^ but as the discoverer of countries the very existence of
which was before unknown to the civilized world, — the writer of the
subsequent pages is aware that he is advancing claims of no ordinary
character. With what degree of abihty they are about to be sustained
remains yet to be seen.

The author makes no pretensions to literary attainments, or to the
art of fine writing ; but he has the vanity to say, that, in his natural
sphere, on the deck of a ship, he will yield to none in his knowledge
and discharge of nautical duties. If this (perhaps gratuitous) boast
require justification, he trusts that it may be found in the following
brief sketch of some prominent incidents of his thus far checkered
life and maritime career, previous to the voyages which furnished the
subject-matter of the present work. This he gives the more readily,
as the public have an undoubted right to know something of a man
who comes before them with the high-sounding promise of increasing
their stock of geographical knowledge, and adding much to the accu-
mulated treasures of cosmographical science.

Ever anxious to avoid even the appearance of egotism, he has
thus introduced himself to the reader in the third person ; but in
telling his own story, he finds it more convenient to adopt the first.

My father, Benjamin Morrell, of Stonington, Connecticut, is well
known to the commercial community in New-England and New- York,
as a ship-builder of some professional eminence. His name, also,
will be remembered, as connected with a domestic calamity of the
most distressing and heart-rending character, which .occurred in the
great gale of September 23d, 1815, which will be noticed in its proper
place. His family once comprised a beloved wife and seven children —
four sons and three daughters, of whom I was the eldest.

I was bom on the 5th day of July, 1795. My parents at that
time resided in a small town of Westchester county, in the state of
New- York, called Rye, on Long Island Sound, about eighteen miles
N.E. of the great commercial emporium of the United States. Thus,
I may say the salt water was almost the first scene presented to my
infant view ; and I have lived close by it, or on it, ever since.

X INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1812.

In less than a year after my birth, my father removed his family to
Stonington, a borough in the county of New-London, Connecticut,
also lying on the margin of Long Island Sound, fifteen miles east of
New-London, and near the western line of Rhode Island. This place
is celebrated for having successfully resisted two furious bombard-
ments by the English ; one during the war of the revolution, and
another, of two days' duration, in the last war. It can also boast of
having produced a greater number of excellent seamen, eminent ship-
masters, and enterprising merchants than any other town of equal
population in the United States. The number of inhabitants according
to the census of 1830 did not exceed 800 souls.

It w^as here that my father commenced his business of ship-building ;
which he pursued, with unremitting assiduity, until the year 1800,
when he made a voyage to the Pacific Ocean, as third officer and
carpenter of the schooner Oneco, of New-London, commanded by
Captain George Howe. He was absent nearly three years, suffering
many hardships and privations, the voyage proving unusually hazard-
ous and disagreeable. On his return to Stonington, he resumed his
business of ship-building ; in which he lost a considerable sum of
money, through the misfortunes of his employer, Captain Nathaniel
Smith. Although this loss was severely felt by my father, he never
attributed any blame to Captain Smith ; knowing him to be of a nature
too noble and humane to enjoy a lengthened period of worldly pros-
perity. The miser and the knave appear to be the most popular and
successful in this life, while the generous and the just too often become
the victims of treachery, and the prey of misfortune.

My infancy and early childhood were periods of sickness and pain.
That laughing vivacity, bounding hilarity, and buoyancy of spirit which
every healthy child experiences —

" That lightly draws its breath,
And feels its life in every limb,"

were to me " like angels' visits ;" for until I was ten years old L had
seldom, if ever, enjoyed health or ease for the short space of a single
week. At the age of ten, my health rapidly improved ; and it Avas
about this period that I first felt a strong propensity to become a sailor,
and visit distant parts of the world. This desire, by whatever cause
excited, was keenly whetted by the many marvellous stories I daily
heard, from those who followed the seas, concerning the " wonders of
the mighty deep," and the curiosities of foreign climes. It literally
" grew with my 'growth, and strengthened with my strength." Books,
also, were not wanting to fan the flame, which at length became inex-
tinguishable ; and after vainly soliciting my father's consent, I deter-
mined at once to play the hero, and seize the first opportunity for
running away !

Such an opportunity at length occurred ; but not until I had entered
my seventeenth year : when, without taking leave of any member of
the family, or intimating my purpose to a single soul, I left my paternal
home, one pleasant morning in March, 1812; and without encounter-
ing any adventures worth relating, soon found myself in the great city

1812.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. xi

of New- York. Here I lost no time in looking out for a berth on
board of some vessel engaged in foreign trade, the coasting business
being a sphere far too limited for my expansive ambition. I finally-
succeeded in shipping myself on board the Enterprise, a ship belonging
to Ralph Buckley, Esq., and commanded by Captain Alexander Cart-
wright ; as fine a seaman, and as honest a man, as ever put his foot
on the quarter-deck of a ship.

Our destination was Lisbon, with a cargo of flour, for which a great
price was anticipated, as France was then at war with Spain and Por-
tugal, and a further supply from the United States was momentarily ex-
pected to be cut oft'; as an embargo law for ninety days had just passed
both houses of Congress, and was hourly expected in New-York.
Like several others in the same predicament, we were compelled to
take in our cargo with the greatest expedition, and then to drop below
in the outer harbour, to wait for our clearance. As soon as this was
obtained, we all weighed anchor and put to sea. The word was
now, " Run for it ! and Heaven help the hindmost !" for the collector's
signature was scarcely dry upon the paper before he received orders
from Washington by express to stop every vessel that was bound to
sea. The revenue-cutter immediately gave chase to our little fleet
of flour-dealers, and succeeded in stopping several of the fugitives,
who were compelled to return. The rest of us had too much the start of
nim ; and I soon found myself far from land, on the element which I
had so long and so ardently desired to traverse.

I cannot describe my sensations on finding myself afloat on the
mighty ocean. My soul seemed to have escaped from a prison or a
cage — I could now breathe more freely. But large and boundless as
the world of waters appeared, I was afraid that it was not large enough
for my wholesale desires. So many had traversed it before me that I
felt apprehensive that they had gleaned the vast field of research, and left
nothing new for me to discover and describe. But doubtless many
other lads of the same age, and under similar circumstances, have
experienced the same kind of feelings. The enthusiastic glow which
they imparted to my bosom, however, was occasionally chilled by an
intruding thought of home, and the aflliction of my parents and rela-
tives, on account of my clandestine and mysterious disappearance. But
the novelty of my situation soon enabled me to give such thoughts to
the winds.

After a pleasant passage, we touched at Lisbon, but finding the
price of flour not equal to our expectations, we proceeded to Cadiz,
which was then exposed to a severe bombardment from the French.
This was of course a wonderful and interesting scene to me. To
see the bomb-shells flying over our ship, and falhng into the market-
place, which I had occasion to visit every day for beef and vegetables,
was truly grand and sublime. It was in some measure realizing
what I had so often heard and read and dreamed of; it was a partial
consummation of my most prominent juvenile desire. I soon became
familiar with danger, and actually felt the most gratified when the
shells fell thickest around me ; so that I might exhibit my contempt
of fear. From that i)eriod, I became romantically fond of hazardous

Kii IXTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1812.

and desperate enterprises, in the aeliievement of which I have ever
since sought occasion to place myself foremost. Whether this pro-
pensity be physical or moral, or both combined, or inconsiderate
rashness, I leave it for others to decide. At all events, it appears to
be inherent in my nature, and the most pleasant sensations I have ever
experienced were the effects of its gratification.

AVe made a long stay in Cadiz, waiting to make an advantageous
sale of our cargo, which we finally effected, and again set sail on our
return to New- York, ignorant of the fact that since our departure from
the United States war had been declared by our government against
Great Britain and her dependencies.

We continued our passage with variable winds and occasional foul
weather, until we arrived on the Banks of Newfoundland ; where we
fell in with the British sloop-of-war Hazard, the commander of which
politely furnished our captain with the news of the war, and then ex-
tended his courtesy so far as to take charge of our ship, and give the
officers and crew a free passage to St. John's, Newfoundland, where we
Avere all confined on board a prison-ship lying at the head of the harbour.

On board of this hulk we were detained as prisoners of war for about
eight months, during which time we received every indulgence and
liberty that could reasonably be expected by persons in our situation.
For this liberal and humane treatment we were indebted to the kind-
ness of Sir John Thomas Duckworth, commander-in-chief of his
Britannic majesty's forces on that station. He even permitted twenty-
five of the American prisoners to go on shore ever}'^ day, to work as
riggers, receiving the customary wages for that business. He also
allowed a market to be held on board tlie hulk, to which the country-
men were compelled to bring the best of every thing, at the same prices
as were paid by citizens. Every article of provisions brought to
this market which was found to be of bad quality was promptly
thrown overboard by one of Sir John's officers.

But notwithstanding the kind treatment we received, we all sighed
for liberty, longing to get home that we might embrace our friends,
and join our brave countrymen in arms. We therefore resolved to
petition Sir John, at his next humane weekly visit, to send the American
prisoners home to their families and friends; We did so, and the
admiral replied in substance as follows :

" My brave men I feel for you, and will do all that lies in my power
towards gratifying your wishes, in the course of this winter. It is
natural that you should desire to be restored to your friends, families,
and country. You may rely upon my best exertions in your behalf."

Reanimated by this cordial assurance, we now felt like different
beings, confident that the humane veteran spoke in the sincerity of his
heart, and a few days furnished testimony that our confidence had not
been misplaced. On his next visit he gave us the joyful intelligence
that arrangements had been made for our return to the States in
about a month.

No incident occurred to damp our hopes. At the time appointed
we all embarked on board a cartel, and on the following day took our
final leave of Sir John, with sentiments of affection und respect. It

1812] THE AUTHORS EARLY LIFE. xiii

is no small gratification to my feelings at the present moment, that I
ajn favoured witli an opportunity of thus bearing public testimony to
the professional merits of this gentleman, as well as to the amiable
qualities of his heart. He dropped a manly tear at our parting, and
his cordial " God bless you, my lads !" was sensibly felt by every
heart anions us. After interchanging an affectionate farewell with
other kind friends and acqnaintances, we set sail for our native land,
and in a few days arrived in safety at Boston.

I now found myself restored to liberty from a state of captivity ; a
freeman in my native country, treading the soil of independence.
This side of the picture was not without its charms. But I was pen-
niless, and among strangers ; in the language of Dr. Watts,

" Alike unknowing and unknown ;"

many miles from my paternal home ; longing, yet dreading to meet
my father, without even a change of linen, or the means of procuring
such a luxury. This side of the picture was shaded in gloom, and I
hesitated what course to pursue. As a prompt decision, however, was
indispensably necessary, I made up ray mind to go home, and started
for Stonington on foot, trustmg to chance and charity for food and
lodging on the road, and to parental affection for a pardon and cordial
reception at the termination of my journey. One of my comrades only
accompanied me ; and though his pockets were light as my own, yet
*' misery loves company," and our conversation tended to beguile the
tediousness of the way. 80 we journeyed on together, being some-
times received and entertained with warm hospitality and kindness, at
other times treated with churlish indilference, or repulsed with unfeeling
rudeness.

AVhen we had arrived at a place within about fifteen miles of Sto-
nington, my companion found a friend from whom he borrowed a horse,
and rode on before me to my father's home, to communicate the intel-
ligence that his son was on the road, and thus prepare him and the
family for the approaching meeting. From the departure of my
messenger until the first interview with my father, my feelings may
more easily be conceived than described.

On hearing that his " lost son was found," and returning, like the
repentant prodigal to seek a reconciliation with his father, parental
aliection triumphed over every other feeling. " And while he was yet a
great way off, his father saw him, and had compassion, and ran, and
fell on his neck, and kissed him." This was almost literally the case
with me. On hearing the report of the messenger, my father instantly
ordered a carriage, and rode out of town to meet me. I shall not
attempt to describe the long desired, long dreaded interview. It took
place on the road, and resulted in the mutual satisfaction of both
parties. His heart was overflowing with tenderness and forgiveness ;
mine with gratitude and affection. The meeting with my mother,
sisters, and brothers was equally affecting. " The best robe" was put
upon me, " and shoes upon my feet." " The fatted calf was killed,'*
and we " did all eat, and were merry."

xiv INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1813.

When a state of comparative calmness had succeeded to this excite-
ment, my father addressed me, nearly in the following words :

" My son," said he, " you have my forgiveness for the past, and
also ray consent to pursue the bent of your inclinations, if you are
still determined to follow the sea for a livelihood. But as it is neces-
sary for you to have education, I wish you to stop on shore until you
can acquire it ; for I shall then be satisfied that you will be capable
of reaching an elevated rank in the profession, and of becommg an
honour to the society of ship-masters. I loiow that you possess as
much ambition as any lad of your age in the country, and are capable
of becoming whatever you please, if you are careful to store your
mind with useful knowledge. You have now health, strength, courage,
and quick discernment. All that is wanting to ensure your success is
a suitable education ; and that you must have."

Though I forcibly felt and readily acknowledged the truth and jus-
tice of these remarks, the " spirit-stirring" influence of the times would
not allow me to profit by them. My country was engaged in an
arduous struggle with a powerful enemy ; my countrymen were in
arms — a daring foe hovered on the coast, and our gallant tars were
reaping a harvest of glory on the ocean. During my unfortunate cap-
tivity, three of the enemy's first-rate frigates had been captured, by
those " American cock-boats, with a piece of striped bunting at their
mast-head," which were to have been swept from the ocean in half
that time.* The gallant Hull had conquered and sunk the boasting
Guerriere, in thirty minutes. Decatur had captured the Macedonian,
after an obstinate action, and brought her safely into New- York through
Long Island Sound. Bainbridge had captured and destroyed the
Java. Porter of the Essex had captured the sloop-of-war Alert, in
eiglit minutes, without the loss of a man. Jones of the Wasp had
captured the Frolic of 22 guns, in forty-three minutes ; and Lawrence
of the Hornet had captured the Peacock, of 18 guns, in fifteen min-
utes. All these victories had been achieved in the short space of six
months, from the 19th of August, 1812, to the 24th of February, 1813 !

How could I hear of these glorious events — how read of the hon-
ours conferred upon the victors — how listen to the shouts of triumph,
and witness the splendid illuminations lighted up in honour of those
heroes, without resolving to seek the first opportunity to share in their
dangers and their glory 1 even the common sailors attached to our vic-
torious sliips were treated on shore like heroes and conquerors. Pub-
lic dinners were provided for them at the most magnificent hotels of
our principal cities ; while splendid and expensive dramatic spec-
tacles were produced at the theatres expressly for their amusement.
With such a luxuriant field of laurels before me, could I calmly look
on, and see others reap all the harvest? Could I, in short, waste days,
and weeks, and months in a village school, while other lads of my age,
among whom were several of my own acquaintances, were gaining
wealth and renown upon the ocean ?

My resolution was soon taken. The privateer Joel Barlow, a

* Vide English newspapers of that day.

1813.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. XV

schooner of one hundred and sixty tons, pierced for fourteen guns,
ivas nearly ready for sea ; and 1 succeeded in obtaining the station of
quarter-master on board of her, under Captain Buchanan. We set sail
with bright hopes and high anticipations, all of which were destined
to terminate in cruel disappointment ; our cruise being totally barren
of incident, danger, or emolument.

We finally put into Charleston, S. C, where our little privateer was
converted into a letter-of-marque, and laden with cotton for France.
Two nine-pounders were all the guns we retained, with eighteen men
besides officers. We v/eighed anchor at daybreak on the 28th of May,
1813, and left the port of Charleston in company with the privateer
schooner General Armstrong, of eighteen guns, afterward distinguished
for the gallant and desperate defence she made against an overwhelming
force, in Fayal Roads. She was now under the command of Captain
Champlin ; who, a few weeks before, had sustained an action with her
against an English twenty-four gun frigate, for forty -five minutes within
pistol shot ; and finally succeeded in escaping, with the loss of six
killed and sixteen wounded.

The General Armstrong, being light and well coppered, soon left
us behind, and we saw her no more. We had five passengers on
board the Joel Barlow, bound for Bordeaux ; viz. a young Frenchman
of about twenty-five years of age, said to be partially insane ; with his
mother, and another French lady : also, two American gentlemen,
one of whom was Major M. M. Noah, of New-York, who had been
recently appointed consul to Tunis.

About the middle of June (I kept no journal at this time), we fell in
with a fleet of English merchantmen, steering a south-easterly course ;
and our captain proposed making love to one of them ; not doubting
that our warlike appearance would induce an instant surrender. We
accordingly gave chase, and came very near catching a tartar ; for as
we neared our intended prize, she suddenly shortened sail, displayed a
flag and pendant, hauled up her courses, and exhibited a row of teeth
too formidable for our present purpose. In short, it was the guardian
dog of the flock — an English gun-brig convoying the fleet. The cap-
tain saw his error in time, appeared satisfied with the discovery, and
we resumed our former course.

Our passage was considerably retarded and protracted by calms ;
so that thirty-four days had elapsed before we obtained a sight of the
French coast. On the 3d of July, in the afternoon, within about
fifty miles of Cordovan lighthouse, we fell in with an English gun-brig
on the lee bow, and a sixteen gun cutter on the lee quarter. We im-
mediately commenced plying to windward, with a fair prospect of es-
caping our enemies ; as it was evident, after an hour's trial, that they
did not gain upon us, and the captain was only waiting for night to
change our course. At sunset, however, we discovered to our aston-
ishment an English frigate to windward, running down directly on
our beam, with topmast, top-gallant, and royal steering sails set.

Escape was now impossible. She soon ran her jib-boom over our
quarter, and ordered us to haul down oursailsand colours. We were
then boarded by a lieutenant, midshipman, and several men from the

xvi INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1813.

frigate, who informed us that she was callctl the Briton, commanded by
Siir Thomas Staines, and ordered us all to repair on board of her, bag
and baggage. We obeyed with all reasonable alacrity, although it
was late in the evening before every thing was properly arranged and
settled. It was a beautiful moonlight night ; and I will not deny that
as I gazed at the silver orb, I silently wished myself at Stonington.
But resjets were now useless.

As soon as we were safely stowed between decks, the master-at-arms
ordered a sentry to be placed over us. On the following morning, how-
ever, as the captain was examining the ship, seeing us under guard,
he called to the master-at-arms, and demanded why the marines were
placed over the Americans.

" Let them go about their business," ssTid he ; and then, turning to
the lieutenant, he added, "let these American tars be put in messes
among the ship's company ; and as this happens to be the 4th day
of July, a day which they always celebrate in their proud and happy
coimtry, tell ray steward to give them six bottles of spirits from my
own private stores, that thiey may drink to the memory of the immor-
tal Washington, the father of his countr}\"

It is perhaps unnecessary to say that we cheerfully profited by this
unexpected indulgence from a magnanimous enemy ; and united in
celebrating the anniversary of our country's independence on board
of an enemy's ship of war, and under the flag of the same power that
had so often assailed our country's rights.

On the following day, our schooner, the Joel Barlow, was sent to
England as a prize, in charge of a lieutenant, midshipman, and ten
men. Our captain went in her, but the rest of us remained on board
the Briton. The same day our French passengers were disposed of
by putting them on board a little French fishing-smack out of Rochelle ;
although much against the mclinations of the fishermen, who begged
hard to be excused, as they were sure of being imprisoned for the ser-
vice the moment they landed. All their entreaties, however, were un-
availing. They were compelled to obey, and the old lady and her
son, accompanied by the other French lady, were received on board
the smack, and we saw them no more.

Major Noah, the Tunisian consul, and his friend, were treated with
the greatest civility by Captain Staines and his oflicers ; and also by
Admiral Duncan, whom they visited by invitation, on board the Bulwark
seventy-four, as soon as we reached Basque Roads, where a British
squadron was at anchor, watching the motion of the French, and pick-
ing up adventurers like ourselves. The consul was afterward trans-
ferred to the Rippon seventy-four, and finally sent to England, in the
Goldfinch brig. From thence he proceeded on his mission to Tunis,
by the way of Spain.

A different destiny awaited myself and comrades. We were trans-
ferred to the Sultan seventy-four ; from thence to the Clarence seventy-
four ; in which we were conveyed to Plymouth, and put on board a
prison-ship, where we remained about one month, and were then taken
to Dartmoor Prison.*

'* This prison is situated on an extensive 7noor, through which flows the river Dart ; hence tht
name of Dartmoor ; as the seaport town at the mouth of the same river is called DartmoxUh,

1815.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. xvii

In this dreary abode we found above eight thousand Frenchmen, and,
about half that number of Americans, all prisoners of war. Here we
received every indulgence that could be expected under such circum-
stances ; and though we had no more than the customary " prisoner's
allowance" of food, what we had was good and wholesome. We en-
joyed the privilege of an excellent market, at the regular prices of the
country, where every thing offered for sale was obliged to be of the
best kind. No imposition was allowed to be practised on the prisoners
by the English farmers. We had our own cooks, and our own nurses
in the hospital ; and the doctor was one of the best and most humane
of men. His name was M'Graw, and he was justly beloved and re-
spected by every American in Dartmoor prison. We had the liberty
of a large yard from daylight until dark ; and a certain number of
the prisoners were each day permitted to go outside the walls to work,
for which they were regiilarly paid by the captain of the prison.
Within the walls we amused ourselves with schools, dramatic per-
formances, and a variety of games and plays. Li fact^ I cannot con-
scientiously accuse the British of any inhumanity towards the Ameri-
can prisoners during all my detention of thirty-one months in St. John's
and at Dartmoor, excepting the atrocious massacre at the latter place
in April, 1815, after the peace. The history of this affair is familiar
to every reader. The American prisoners were fired upon, by order
of the infamous Capt. Shortland, when eight were killed, and thirty-
seven wounded ! (

More than seventeen years have passed away since that horrid
event occurred, and the vital current, of course, flows more calmly:*-
through my veins ; it is also not always right to probe a healing wound :
yet I cannot, at this moment, refer to the affair without experiencing
an unpleasant glow of indignation which it is difficult to suppress. It
is the feeling of an unatoned injury rankling in my bosom. Had I
been one of the wounded, I could not be more sensitive on the subject,
I feel it as an American. It is true that some sort of an investigation
took place — a kind of mock trial ; but it resulted in nothing satisfac-
tory to the friends of the deceased, or the' surviving wounded invalids^,
the most of whom will bear the marks of their wrongs to the grave.

Why was not satisfaction demanded for this brutal outrage 1 The
humblest American citizen is as much entitled to the protection of his
government as the most elevated. Surely they who fight the battles
of their countiy, and stand ready to shed their blood freely as water
to sustain her honour and her rights, ought not to be wantonly
maltreated without receiving some adequate atonement from the
assassins.

About the 1st of May, 1815, the joyful assurance of our immediate
release was received in Dartmoor prison, and a few days afterward
we were marched to Plymouth, where we embarked for the land of
liberty, our country, and our homes. In the latter part of June I once
more stepped upon American ground, with a heart full of gratitude to
our heavenly Father for having again redeemed me from captivity,
supported me through numerous dangers and difficulties, and finally
restored me to the land of my nativity in safety and in health. We

Xviu INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1815.

landed at Boston, and I lost no time in hastening to Stonington, where
I had the additional satisfaction of finding my parents and all the family
in perfect health. It was a joyful meeting, after an absence of more
than two years. I

tf As our country was now at peace, and my love of hardy enterprise
not yet satisfied, I soon began to look about for some active and manly
employment, congenial with my roving propensities. I therefore, after
taking an affectionate leave of my friends, repaired to New-York, where
I fell in with my old friend Captain Cartwright, who now commanded
the ship New-York Packet, and was bound to Bordeaux. Wishing
to see a little of France, I did not hesitate to ship myself on board his
vessel, which shortly proceeded on her voyage.

» In about three months we returned to New- York, where intelligence
of the most distressing nature awaited me. During my absence, four
of our family had perished in the most dreadful manner — namely, my
mother, my grandmother, my sister, and my cousin. This afflicting
dispensation happened in the great gale of September 23, 1815.

This was the most tremendous and disastrous tornado ever witnessed
in the United States. It commenced at about four o'clock in the morn-
ing. At nine it blew a fresh gale from the east, with some rain. By
twelve the wind was south-east, and had increased to a perfect hurri-
cane. It drove the water into Providence River to the height of twelve
feet above its usual high-water mark, destroying much property and
many lives. But at Stonington, the home of my parents, sisters, and
brothers, the effects of this gale were most disastrously exhibited, and
most severely felt. At ten o'clock, A. M. the tide had risen so as to
■sweep all the wharves. A vast number of stores and houses were de-
molished, blown to pieces, and washed away by the sea — and my
father's house among the rest.* Business had called him away from
his family at an early hour in the morning ; and when the danger be-
gan to be alarming, the water had risen to such a height that he could
Tiot return ! He had advanced so far as to be in full view of his house ;
but an impassable gulf prevented his nearer approach. The house
was now surrounded and more than half-filled by the unnatural deluge,
the surface of which was covered with floating timbers, planks, and
other evidences of its ravages. The family had retreated to the roof.
Many attempts had been made to cross the raging whirlpool in boats,
with the vain hope of rescuing the ill-fated sufferers from their im-
pending destiny. My father rushed forward to succour the helpless
victims, with a desperation bordering on phrensy ; but was forcibly
restrained by his more considerate or less excited friends. There
stood the distracted husband and father, surrounded by his neighbours,
gazing on the heart-appalling scene, unable to afford relief! He saw
the beings who were dearer to him than life, clinging to the chimney
of their habitation for support, and shrieking for assistance which
Heaven alone could give. He saw them, one by one, torn from their
hold by the relentless element ! He saw them perish, and could afford
no help !

* Tbe loss of property sustained by my father on this occasion was considerable.

1815-21.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. XJX

'■/ This was dreadful news to me ; but our domestic calamities did not
terminate here. In about six months afterward, we were called to
mourn the loss of two more of the family — two brothers, who also met
a watery death. It was now feared by all that my father would sink
under the weight of this accumulated affliction, and lose his reason, if
not his life. But we were spared such an addition to our present
troubles. Summoning to his aid a manly philosophy, combined with
a pious resignation to the will of Providence, he bore up against the
load of sorrow with a fortitude and calmness beyond our expectations.

In the height of these calamities, one person only proffered assist-
ance of a more substantial nature than mere unavailing expressions
of sympathy. This noble and disinterested friend was no other than
Silas E. Burrows, Esq., who stepped forward like a man — nay, like
an angel of merny— and took under his protection my two little mother-
less sisters, to whom he has shown every mark of tenderness and
affection that it is possible even for a fond father to evince for his
dearest child. May the choicest blessings in the gift of a bountiful
Providence be showered upon him and his. But this was no solitary
instance of this good man's benevolence. His general character is
above the reach of my feeble panegyric ; thousands are living who
"will readily bear testimony to his worth as a citizen, and liis virtues
as a man.

In the mean time my ruling passion was as restless as ever, pointing
to new scenes, in the most remote sections of the globe. I obeyed
the impulse, and visited several parts of the eastern world in rapid
succession. Madras, Calcutta, Batavia, Canton, Bengal, and New-
Holland. These voyages I performed in diiTerent ships, before the
mast, — the only school in which good seamanship can be successfully
and practically taught or learned.

During all this period, however, I was justly considered a very
*' wild youth." How long I should have continued in this thoughtless
career of folly it is not easy to determine, had not Divine Providence
raised up for me a faithful friend and adviser in the person of Captain
Josiah Macy, master of the ship Edward of New- York, belonging to
Samuel Hicks and himself. On a voyage to Calcutta, this worthy
man, who is a pattern for all ship-masters, took me from before the mast,
and by his watchfulness and fatherly advice directed my attention to
more manly and useful plirsuits ; nor did he remit his guardian care
until he saw me master of a ship. \

Thus was I diverted from the path of indiscretion, which too often

conducts to ruin, by the unsolicited friendship and benevolent feelings

of an entire stranger, who long acted towards me the part of a'parent

and a tutor ; labouring incessantly to supply the glaring defects of my

education (or, more properly, my want of education), and to eradicate

'from my mind the seeds of folly, and plant in their stead the seeds of ,

'useful knowledge ; and finally, putting me forward in the world as a

'man of business, and thus securing me an honourable rank among my

fellow-citizens. Heaven grant that I may feel properly grateful for ,

such inestimable favours. As an evidence that I profited by them, the

vear 1819 saw my name enrolled in the honourable list of married

Xa INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1821/

men ! I shall not trouble the reader with my " whole course of
woomg ;" a record of the result is sufficient lor my present purpose.

Having heard much of the South Shetland Islands, and the stirring
incidents of a sealing voyage in the South Seas, I felt a strong desire
to become a partaker in the labours and profits of such an enterprise.
Accordingly in the month of June, 1821, I accepted the office of first
mate on board the schooner Wasp, belonging to James Byers, M'Intire,
Nixson, and B. W. Rogers of New-York, and commanded by Captain
Robert Johnson. My brother also went out in the same vessel, as
second mate. We had a fine passage to the Falkland Islands,
where we fomid the brig Aurora on shore at New-Island, in Shallop
Cove. After a short stay here, we started for Staten Land, where we
came to anchor on the 15th of September, in East Harbour.*

I now took my brother, with the two boats well manned, and started
on a cruise around the island in search of fur seal. But this day's
cruise had wellnigh proved my last ; for in attempting to land, with
two of my boat's crew, an accident happened which threatened
fatal consequences both to them and myself. As a hea\y swell was
rolling into the shore, I ordered the two men to land before me, con-
fident that I could gain the top of the rock before the next roller
came in. But here I unfortunately overrated my own agility, and
miscalculated the velocity of *' the saucy billow," for before either
of us could obtain a good foothold, a very heavy roller, full fifteen
feet in height, came swiftly in, and swept all three of us off" the rock.
Being in the rear of my men, it struck me with much greater violence
than it did them, plunging me downwards with great velocity. I
struggled manfully with the gigantic assailant, but before I could clear
myself from the kelp and undertow, and rise again to the surface, I
had become so completely strangled with water that it was useless to
close my mouth, as no more could enter h.

During all this struggle my presence of mind did not once forsake
me. My thoughts flew like lightning over the actions of my past
life ; indeed, the rapidity with which I recalled every single transac-
tion of departed years is truly incredible. I reviewed the whole, but
among a mass of youthful follies I beheld no crime for which I could
condemn myself. Nothing troubled me but the idea of leaving my
little family so poorly provided for, and exposed to the insults and impo-
sitions of an unfeeling \vorld.

Perceivmg that my strength was wasting very rapidly, I made a
desperate eftbrt to swim off shore to my boat, which I saw just out-
side of the breakers, and near her the boat of my brother, who was
pulling in, and admonishing me at the same time, in a loud but cheer-
ful voice, to keep up my spirits for a minute or two longer, when he
would be able to reach and assist me.

All my attempts to swim off shore were frustrated by the hea\y
rollers, throwing me back towards the rocks. I therefore changed
my purpose, and made several trials to reach the shore ; but just as I
coidd almost touch the rocks which lined it, theundertow would take

* Seo chapter iii.

If -21.] THE AITHOR S EARLY LIFE. xxi

me fittecfi or Ttrenty feet beneilh the water. At le■gd^ when mv
jfie«ble lOiuggica had once more imaed me to the soHace^ I found that
my strength had oitirdy left me : and eeai^g to stn^gle, I passiTely
and dmdy descended, cem fi de nt that I ecMdd never come up ai'
widMNit assiatanee, and fe(£ng that after snch powerful exer
and eonseqoent (atigve, it was sweet to rest, eren if it were t^e res . .
death!

AVhea I had slowly sunk ahoot two fitct below the surfece, ii:
an erect posture^ with mj laee i]ff dioie, and mr ejes o^&l, I -
my brother^ boat cominsr in, cm a Teiy heairy roUcr; he appearing
dmnnined io sare or perish with me. As the boat came in with
great Telocity, I saw him standSng in the bow, with a coiled hne in
ius hand ready to throw to my assistance, which he did as soon as he
came within proper di& t an ce, and widi sodi aecoracy that the coil,
setdittg much faster than I did, came Erectly OTer my head. Heaven
gave nje strength to clench it in my hand, whicii I did with a death-
gripe, and in the ne3:t moment my brother had hokt of me.

^ Stem, aH !* he exdaimed, and die oars wore Tigoraody plied to
pail the boat backwards fiom the breakers ; hot before she eonld dear
them, die came veiy near stanfing on end or pitdipoling.

Thus far my senses feithfoUy peifemed their seTeral fimctioDs. I
could see, hear, fed, think, reason, and draw omdusions. Bui the
instant I was raised to the smiace, and feh die bieaih of heaTen on
my face, I knew no more, but lay insoisible, apparmtiy dead, for four
hoars ; during aD which time no human str^igth conld compel my
fingers to rdax thdr hdd of die cord whidi9 mider Providence, saved
me from a watery grare,

When I recovered my senses, I found that I had cascaded a vast
qua a iiiy of sah water, and fdt myself utteriy prostrated with excessive
weakness. The boats were now pulling for the schooner, which they
reached about midni^t, die watdi on deck haTing called Captain
Johnson, on seeing us approach. Mf brother'^s boat was the first to
get alongside, when he briefly commimicated to the captain the nature
of my sitoattOD. The mtmiait I was lifted from the boat to die deck
of the Wasp I foimd myself in the arms of Ca|>tain Johnson ; who,
with a fidl heart and oveifiowii^ eyes, iiiiiiiediatel^ retomed thanks to
God for my truly miraculous deliverance.

From Sraten Land we shaped our course for the South Shetland
Idands,* and arrived at Monroe*s. after a pleasant run of four days,
with light winds from the east and noith-east, and dear weather. In
crotsii^ among d&ese islands we eicpericnced many dangers and hair-
Ineaddi e8ca|>es from the fields of ice which frequently sunv>unded our
litde TesseL Our situation at times was peculiarly haxardous, cheer-
less, and londy« — no other vessd appearing in those seas to intenmpt
the solitude which surrounded us for sixteen days, although we wete
dafly expecting the brig Jane Maria, of Xew-York, bdonging to the
same ooncom, for which we were to prepare a cargo (^ sea-elephant
oil orblobber.

On the third day after our arrival we explored our way. widi ex-

* Sec cteft. liL

jjxii INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1821.

treme difficulty and not a little danger, through the ice, as far to the
eastward as Yankee Harbour. Before we reached this place, however,
being then about three miles from it, we became completely enclosed
in the centre of a vast field of ice ; and before we could rescue the
vessel from tliis unpleasant and perilous situation it came on to blow a
smart gale from the S.S.W., nearly dead on-shore. In the course of
two hours the violence of the wind had raised a heavy and dangerous
sea, which caused these large cakes of ice, about six feet in thickness,
to surore against the schooner with alarming force. This rendered
our situation extremely critical ; and we made several bold attempts
to force the vessel through the ice into clear water, which was now
only about three hundred yards from us.

Convinced, at length, that our ice-bound schooner could not be made
to move without putting on her such a press of canvass as would,
almost to a certainty, carry away her masts, as the gale was increasing
every moment, Captain Johnson ordered the sails to be taken in, and
the boats to be prepared with provisions, muskets, ammunition, and
fireworks, — in order that we might haul them to the shore over the
ice, in case of the last extremity, — as there was every prospect of the
schooner's going to pieces if she continued much longer in her present
dangerous situation. But by the time the boats were in readiness the
<;rew had become completely disheartened, — the mildest prospect be-
iore them being that of perishing with the cold on the ice, if they
escaped a watery grave !

At this juncture of affairs Captain Johnson, myself, and brother
held a consultation, which resulted in a determination to force the ves-
sel through the ice, at the hazard of her masts. Should we remain
iDuch longer where we were, our fate \\;as inevitable ; and we could but
perish at last, if the masts went by the board. It was a desperate
alternative ; but possibly it might prove successful. Captain Johnson
gave the word, and I sprang forward to see it executed.

*' All hands, ahoy ! to make sail !" I exclaimed, and the crew were
instantly in readiness. "My brave lads," I continued, "you all see
our danger, and must exert yourselves to escape it. Active obedience
and manly presence of mind can now alone save us. I know you too
"well to doubt your skill and courage. Cheer up, my hearties, and ex-
ert yourselves like men in making sail to save the vessel and your
lives. Let us give the little Wasp all her canvass, and she will either
carry us safely out of this perilous situation, or lose her limbs in the
attempt."

This brief exhortation had the desired effect. Every man sprang
to his duty with renovated cheerfulness and alacrity ; and in a few
minutes all the heavy canvass in the vessel was spread to the gale.
Such is the salutary influence of a little seasonable excitement on
desponding minds.

Our little bark vainly struggled for about fifteen minutes, the
masts yielding to the unwonted pressure as far as the shrouds and
Ijackstays would permit. On the strength of this cordage our redemp-
tion now depended. We watched her motion whh an almost breath-
less anxiety. At length Ave perceived that she began to move, at the

1321.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. xxiii

iardy rate of about twice her length in twenty minutes. This slow
movement, however, was gradually accelerated, until, in about twenty-
five minutes, we found her approaching the outer edge of her ice-bound
prison with great velocity. It was now deemed necessary to shortea
sail, lest her still increasing speed should drive some sharp fragment
of ice through her bottom. Every sail was therefore taken in, except
the head of the foresail ; by which time we were in clear water, where
we hove the vessel to under two reefs in her foresail, which was now
as much canvass as she was able to stand under in such a gale.

On the following day the gale abated, fine weather succeeded, and
the sea soon became smooth. It was now found necessary to get the
vessel into a safe anchorage as soon as possible. This was finally
eff*ected by the discovery of a new and commodious harbour, to which,
in honour of our worthy captain, we gave the name of Johnson's Har-
bour. Here we came to anchor, and enjoyed a little respite after oiu;
late danger and fatigue.

The next morning my brother and myself, each in command of a
well-furnished whale-boat, started on a cruise in search of sea-ele-
phants. Our boats were equipped and stored with every thing neces-
sary for such service, — such as provisions, arms, fireworks, tent, <fec.
After coasting along the shore for about thirty miles to the westward,
we discovered the objects of our search on the beach, in immense
multitudes, to the amount of at least ten thousand. Exulting in the
prospect of a successful enterprise, we immediately selected a con-
venient spot and pitched our tent, which was made of No. 1 canvass,
and of sufficient capacity to accommodate the crews of both whale-
boats. Here we encamped, in the midst of our imconscious victims,
which were scattered around us in numbers more than sufiicient foe
our present purpose, — which was merely to provide a cargo of seven
hundred barrels of oil for the brig Jane Maria, of New-York, and
which we eflfected in a very short time.

As soon as the brig arrived and took charge of the oil, we weighed
anchor and shaped our course to the north-east, in search of fur-seals.
This unwearied activity was characteristic of our enterprising and
amiable commander. On the accomplishment of one object he pro-
ceeded to another without a moment's delay. But it is to be feared
that this laudable ambition at length carried him too far, and that he
has fallen a victim to that spirit of manly enterprise by which he was
always actuated. He sailed from New- York in 1826, on a voyage to
the South Seas, but has not been heard of since he left the south cape
of New-Zealand, in 1827.

We arrived at the Seal Islands in the latter part of November, 1821,
but found very little game to reward us for the trouble of coming
thither. Captain Johnson, therefore, whose active spirit would not
permit him to linger among these islands in idleness, adopted the
resolution of sailing eastward in search of new lands. So we took
our boats on deck, and steered between the east and the south, until
the second day of December, at one o'clock, when the man at mast-
head gave the cheering crj^ of " Land, ho ! Land, ho !"

This proved to be an island, bearing east-half-south, distant five

xxir INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1821.

leagues ; not noticed on any chart. At 2 P. M the wind had died
away to a dead cahn. Knowing this to be a new discovery, and
anxious to ascertain if there were any fur-seal on its shores, I prevailed
on Captain Johnson to let me take my boat and visit the stranger.
The boat was accordingly lowered and manned, and at half-past two
our brave lads began to pull for the shore, which was now about ten
miles from us. Our orders were to return before dark, and in case
of a breeze springing up, to look for the Wasp under the lee of the
island. Our men gave way with great spirit and alacrity, cheered
with the hope of finding on the shores of our new discovered island an
abundance of mat amphibious game of which we were in search.

After two hours' hard rowing our boat reached the beach, and anx-
ious to be the first man on shore, I resigned the steering oar to one of
the men, and sprang into the bows of the boat, from whence I leaped
to land before a particle of sand had been disturbed by her keel.
Here were no inhabitants either to bid me welcome or to resent the
intrusion, with the exception of some twenty sea-dogs, reposing on
the beach, and their tacit liospitality we inhumanly rewarded by des-
patching five of the handsomest, and making free with their jackets.

On what trifling contingencies depend important events ! This
little adventure proved the means of saving our lives ! But for the
capture of these sea-dogs, our boat and crew, in all human probability,
would never have been heard of more, nor would this humble narra-
tive have ever been put to paper ! But I will not anticipate.

We now proceeded to explore the beach in search of fur-seal, and
.soon feel in with a yearling of the right sort. This put our lads in
iine spirits, as it seemed the earnest of some heavy rookeries* ahead.
But in this hope we were all sadly disappointed ; for after vainly
exploring above ten miles of the shore, which aboimded with spots
of fine beach, and places suitable for seal in a parturient state, we
gave up the search in despair, and prepared to return to our vessel.

It was now near eight o'clock, P. M., and the wind had commenced
blowing a smart breeze from the west, attended with light snow-
squalls. The Wasp, as we expected, was lying-to on the leeward
side of the island, at the distance of about ten miles, bearing E.N.E.
by compass. AVe unmoored, hoisted sail, and steered directly for the
schooner with a fair wind, until we were within about two miles and
a half of her, when a thick snow-storm set in, while the wind contin-
ued to freshen. We still shaped our course for the position in which
the Wasp was last seen, lying-to with her starboard facks on board,
bearing E. by N. half N. Consequently, we steered E. by N. for
about two miles, when we commenced firing muskets every five min-
utes, until we judged ourselves to be near the schooner.

Not receiving any answer to our signal-guns, we turned the boat's

* As this noun, in both its numbera, will frequently occur in the course of this work, it may not be
improper in this place to explain its meaning. The word rookery, which properly means "a nur-
sery of rooks," has been applied by all our South Sea navigators to the breeding encampments of
■various oceanic animals, such as seal, penguins, &c. It is possible, however, that it may have
been derived from the verb to rook, or to ruck, which signifies to squat ; to bend and set close, to
cower, <fec. At the risk of transgressing the canons of criticism, I shall use the term rookery as
it is understood by South Sea sailors—" a spot selected by certaun animals for the pur^wseof bring-
iag forth their young."

1821.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. ' XXV

head to windward, took in the sails, and pulled towards the island ;
making, how^ever, but very little headway. In this manner we pro-
ceeded until it began to grow dark, which in this latitude, and at that
season, was at half past ten, P. M. At this time the haze opened a
little, so that we obtained a sight of the schooner bearing S.W. by
W. five miles to windward, under a heavy press of sail, with her
larboard tacks on board. The island now bore W. by S. distant
seven miles, as we had gained about two miles in-shore.

The wind had now increased to a perfect gale, and our situation
every moment became more and more critical. Presuming that Cap-
tain Johnson did not see the boat, and finding that we were rapidly
losing ground, the crew became very much disheartened. The snow-
storm again set in, thicker than ever ; so that we soon lost sight both
of land and vessel. The gale continued to increase in violence, and the
waves in magnitude ; so that it was almost impossible to keep the boat's
head to the windward. I now found it absolutely necessary to adopt
some other method to keep her in that position than merely hanging
upon our oars ; for unless her head was pointed to the seas, she would
inevitably fill. To prevent such a catastrophe, I fortunateh^ hit upon
the following expedient.

We bent or fastened one end of the boat's warp to the five seal-
skins we had taken in the afternoon, and at about three fathoms dis-
tance from the skins, we secured the oars to the same cord. In order
to prevent the latter proving too buoyant, we loaded them with
the boat's anchor, secured by what cordage we could command, such
as the halyards and sheets of our sails. As soon as this rude appa-
ratus was completed, we committed it to the waves, paying out about
twenty fathoms of the warp, which we secured to the bow and stern
thwarts, keeping it well parcelled in the chucks, to prevent its chafing.
When this was all properly arranged, we stowed ourselves in the
centre of the boat, and soon found that one man could now keep her free,
by baling only half his time, although the sea ran excessively heavy,
and the gale blew with such violence that it was almost impossible to
breathe while looking to windward.

Still, however, our little boat made very good weather of it. The
oil which worked from the blubber attached to the skin so smoothed
the rough billows that not a sea broke near the boat. For the space
of twenty-four hours we thus rode by our floating anchor, in a tre-
mendous gale of Avind, a very heavy sea, and a violent snow-storm.
During this time we must have drifted to leeward at least fifty miles,
as there was no land in sight when the storm abated, and the weather
became clear. Our newly discovered island could have been easily
discerned at the distance of forty miles.

Although the storm had abated, our situation was still extremely
perilous. We had neither provisions nor quadrant on board the boat,
in the high latitude of 60° 30', and were, in fact, destitute of every
thing necessary to extricate ourselves from this awkward predicament.
To add to the difiiculties and dangers which surrounded us, the feet,
hands, and ears of the crew began to be frozen. I noAv fomid myself
compelled to exercise some severity towards the poor fellows, in order
topreventtheirperishing with the cold. That treacherous and horrid

XXvi INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF [1821.

drowsiness which is ever the precursor of death by freezing came
over them with almost resistless force, and I knew tliat he who slept
would wake no more. I therefore adopted every method I could think
of to arouse their almost dormant faculties, and could only succeed
by exciting some turbulent passion. I also compelled them to dip
their hands and feet into the water every few minutes, to prevent their
freezing any more ; as I, who set the salutary example, escaped the
slightest touch of the frost. The moment I felt a sensation of numb-
ness in my extremities, I dipped the affected part in the salt water,
and the feeling was almost immediately removed.

On the 3d of December, at nine o'clock, A. M., the gale subsided,
and was succeeded by fair weather. We now weighed our floating-
anchor, the wind having shifted to the south, and again set sail in
search of our new island. The course we steered was W.S.W.,
running at the rate of five miles an hour, until two o'clock the next
morning, December 4th ; when, to our unspeakable joy, we found our-
selves close in with our little island, which we had left two days before.
At four o'clock, A. M., we had the additional pleasure of discovering
the schooner to the eastward, steering directly for the island, and at
half past six we were once more safe on the bright decks of the Wasp,
where my brave boat's crew received the cordial embraces of their
sympathizing shipmates. It was necessary, however, that this inter-
change of congratulation should be abridged, as my men were much
frost-bitten, and quite exhausted for the want of food and rest ; the
little bread we had on board the boat being completely soaked with
the salt water.

i As respects myself, I was received by the captain and my brother
as one risen from the dead. Both of them shed tears of joy, and fer-
vently expressed their thanks to Heaven for my deliverance. They
had given us up for lost, concluding it impossible that our little boat
coidd weather such a gale, or live an hour in such a sea. Even the
schooner had suffered considerably, having part of her bulwark washed
away while lying-to in the height of the gale, which split one three-
reefed foresail and one balance-reefed mainsail. She had also drifted
about ninety miles to the eastward.

Captain Johnson had seen our boat just as the snow-storm set in,
and concluded that we would immediately steer for the land, whicli
was what we vainly attempted to do. At half past ten, P. M., when
the snow cleared off for a few minutes, he could discover nothing of
us from the masthead ; and finding the gale increasing to such an
alarming degree of violence, attended with so rough a sea, he naturally
concluded that the boat must have been swamped, and that, as a neces-
sary consequence, all hands had perished ; as it seemed to him, he
said, " utterly impossible for any boat to live at sea in so violent a
gale, with the sea running so high as, at times, almost to bury the
schooner." It M'as nothing, under Providence, but the soft persuasive
influence of our sea-dog oil, that partially appeased the angry god of
the ocean, and restrained his fury from filling the little bubble of a
vessel in which we floated. To the God of gods we gave the praise,
for to him alone was it due. t

At eight o'clock, A. M. we once more sat down to a warm breakfast ;

1822.] THE AUTHOR'S EARLY LIFE. xxvii

and at nine, P. M., having examined the coast to our satisfaction, and
finding no seal, we steered for Staten Land, where we again fell in
with the brig Jane Maria, bound to New-York. As this vessel was
also under the orders of Captain Johnson, though now in the charge
of one in whom he had not the most implicit confidence, he expressed
a wish that I would take passage, and navigate her to New- York. I
cheerfully complied with my worthy friend's wishes, and embarked on
board the Jane Maria, which, in a few days afterward, arrived at the
Falkland Islands. Here we remained about a month, for the purpose
of taking fur-seal, and then set sail for the United States. After a
pleasant passage of fifty-eight days, we arrived in safety at the port of
New- York, on the 26th of April, 1822. I had the satisfaction of find-
ing my family and all my friends enjoying good health ; but shall not
trouble my readers with any trite remarks respectmg the pleasure of
meeting those we love, after so long an absence ; presuming that they
know as much about it as I can tell them. At any rate, they will not
look for sentiment in the rough journal of a sailor. *

On the day after my arrival, our owners having perused the letters
which I brought from Captain Johnson, Mr. Byers promptly offered
me the command of a vessel, if I would wait a month or two ; at the
expiration of which time it would be the proper season to commence
a South Sea voyage for the purpose of sealing, trading, and making
new discoveries. I readily acceded to this proposal, and immediately
took charge of the schooner Henry, to have her repaired and fitted
against the return of Captain Johnson, who was then to take the com-
mand, and resign the Wasp to me. In about six weeks the latter
vessel made her appearance, with a cargo of hair-seal skins — last from
the island of Mocha ; and, in due time, Captain Johnson and myself
exchanged places. I then took both vessels up to the ship-yard of
Messrs. Blossom, Smith, and Damon, to be thoroughly overhauled,
repaired, and fitted for a long voyage.

When the two vessels were properly fitted for sea, and removed
from the ship-yard to the stations assigned them for that purpose, we
commenced taking in provisions and salt for a sealing voyage, which
it was calculated would occupy about two years •, while both com-
manders were vested with discretionary powers to prosecute new dis-
coveries, and to trade for the benefit of all concerned. Each vessel
^vas therefore liberally and bountifully supplied with every thing
necessary and comfortable for such an expedition, by James Byers,
Esq., one of the owners. In naming this gentleman, I cannot avoid
expressing the high estimation in which I hold his character for honour,
liberality, mercantile integrity, and every manly virtue.

In due time our two schooners were completely equipped and ready
for a two years' cruise in the South Seas, Antarctic Seas, and Pacific
Ocean ; both of them being strong, stanch, well-rigged, fast-sailing
vessels. On the 30th day of June, 1822, we prepared to set sail —
having, of course, previously taken leave of our friends, and parted
with some perhaps for ever ! At eight, A. M., the pilot came on board,
when we got under way, and put to sea with a fine breeze from the
S.AV. and fair weather. The journals of this and three subsequent
voyages form the contents of the following pages.

VOYAGE

TO THE

SOUTH SEAS AND PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAPTER I.

Thoughts on a Polar Expedition — Objects of the present Voyage — Departure from
IS'ew- York— Fourth of July — Crossmg the Equator — Visit from Father Nep-
tune — ^Arrival at St. Ann's Islands — Village of St. Joao de Macae— Cape
Frio — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — Directions for Entering the Harbour — De-
scription of St. Sebastian's — Its Trade and Commerce — Beauty of the sur-
rounding Country — Natural Productions — Character of the Inhabitants.

NoTWiTHSTAXDiXG the length of time which has elapsed since the
discovery of the western continent, and the consequent impulse given
to the spirit of discovery, it is a remarkable fact that the most in-
terpsting section of this terraqueous globe still remains unexplored, and
almost totally unknown. It is a reproach to every civilized country,
that the people of this enlightened age possess so little accurate know-
ledge of the seas, islands, and perhaps continents which exist in the
polar regions of the southern hemisphere.

Many enterprising navigators of the last and present centuries
have made highly laudable, and some of them partially successful,
attempts to penetrate the cloud of mystery which still hangs over the
Antarctic Seas. But every one has stopped at a certain point, timidly
slirinking from the farther prosecution of what they deemed an im-
practicable project. Some, it is said, have even been deterred by a
superstitious notion that an attempt to reach the South Pole was a
presumptuous intrusion on the awful confines of nature, — an milawful
and sacrilegious prymg into the secrets of the great Creator ; who, they
contend, has guarded the " ends of the earth" with an impa-ssable
bulwark of indissoluble ice ; on which is written, "' Thus far shalt thou
come, but no farther ; and here shall thy proud course be stayed."
Such an idea would have become the inquisitors of Spam in the days
of Columbus.

Admitting for a moment, however, that such is the fact, and that
nothing less than a miracle could open the passage through this for-
midable barrier, I contend that genius, science, and energy com-
bined can work miracles, and even remove mountains ; for what is a
miracle but the power of spirit over matter — the triumph of mind over

30 ' DEPARTURE FROM KEW-YORK. [1822^

physical impediments. The march of intellect is irresistible ; and
were the earth itself one globe of ice, the fire of genius, directed by
the wand of science, could melt a passage to its centre. The day
as not far distant when a visit to the South Pole will not be thought
more of a miracle than to cause an egg to stand on its point.

I have long been of this opinion ; and the voyage of which I am
now about to give a plain but correct narrative has strengthened that
opinion to a firm conviction. One grand object of this voyage was to
acquire a more accurate knowledge of the Antarctic Seas, and to
ascertain the practicability, under favourable circumstances, of pene-
trating to the South Pole. For the furtherance of this object, I was
vested with discretionary powers by the owners of the Wasp, a fine fast-
sailing schooner, fitted out for the purpose, well manned and equipped,
and intrusted to my command. We set sail from the port of New-
York on Sunday morning, the 30th of June, 1822, with a fair wind
and pleasant weather.

* July \st. — At six o'clock, P. M., having discharged the pilot, we
took our departure from Sandy Hook lighthouse, bearing W.N.W.
distant seven leagues, and steered a S.E. course, with a fine breeze
on our starboard beam. This was on the afternoon of Monday, the
first day of July, 1822 ; a year rendered somewhat memorable in the
city of New- York, by the last visitation of that terrible scourge, the
yellow fever, which made its appearance about the 1st of August, a
month after our departure, and did not stay its ravages mitil the Oc-
tober following.

I The favourable auspices under which we commenced our voyage
were hailed as auguries of a successful result, and soon banished from
our minds every little tender regTct which parting interviews might
have left lingering about the heart. The wind was sufficiently fair for
the course we lay ; the weather was pleasant, and the crew in high spirits.
' July 4:th. — Thursday, the 4th, being the anniversary of our ooun-
try's independence, the star-spangled banner was hoisted at sunrise,
while a grand national salute reminded old Neptune that freemen ac-
knowledged no earthly power as mistress of the ocean. The crew on
this occasion were furnished with an extra allowance of such good
things as tended to enliven their patriotism, and brighten their ideas of ^
national glory ; during the discussion of which we of the quarter-
deck were not niggardly in setting them a good example. We were
now in latitude 36° 6' N., long. 66° 15' W.— fair weather.
^ Friday^ July 5th, completed the 27th year of my age. The annual
return of one's birth-day is always a suitable subject for serious re-
flection ; and on this occasion I reviewed the little checkered scene
of my past years with mingled sensations of pleasure and regret.
Bright anticipations of the future, however, soon became predominant
in my imagination. At a comparatively early age, I had been deemed
worthy to take charge of an expedition intended not only to benefit
those immediately interested and concerned, but also to aid the cause
of science, and add, perhaps, one little ray to the already dazzling
glory of my country. This single idea, in the mind of an enterprismg
young man, is certainly a sufficient excitement to a faithful discharge

Aug.] CROSSING THE EQUATOR. ' 31'

of his trust. Our latitude this day at noon was 35° 55' N., long. 63^
45' W. — weather pleasant.

. July 22d. — Although we left New-York with a fair wind and pleasant
weather, experience had taught us not to expect a long continuance of
such favourable circumstances. We were not disappointed, therefore,,
in meeting a due share of baffling winds and occasional foul weather.
Such, in fact, Avas the case with us until Monday, July 22d, when we
took the N.E. trade-winds, in latitude 28° N., long. 40° 30' W. On
the following day the sun entered the sign of Leo.

July 2dd. — We crossed the tropic of Cancer on Tuesday, the 23d,
at live o'clock, P. M., in long. 40° J 1' W. — wind from E.N.E., and fair
weather.

July SOth. — For about a week we were favoured with the N.E. trade*
wind, and were within two hundred leagues of the equator, when it
forsook us, on Tuesday, the 30th, in lat. 10° 10' N., long. 36° 15' W.
From this time, for twelve days, we had light variable winds from
S.S.W. to S.S.E. attended with heavy rains. ^

, August 1st. — Thursday, the first day of August, completed just 320
years since Columbus first discovered the continent of South America, on
which he landed sixteen days afterward. This fact occurred to my
mind in association with an important item m my instructions — namely,
to make a critical survey of the South American coast, from Cape Cor-
rientes to Cape Horn ; and as far north on the Pacific side as circum-
stances would permit. It is a remarkable fact, that, after landing on
this vast continent, and surveying much of its coast, Columbus lived and
died under the impression that it was an island, and that all his new
discoveries were on the eastern coast of Asia ! Our latitude this day
at noon was 8° 27' N.

August I2th. — On Monday, the 12th, we crossed the equator, in long.
26° 42' W. Agreeably to ancient usage on such occasions, we were
honoured by a visit from Father Neptune, who courteously bid us wel-
come into the southern hemisphere; in return for which civility, his health
was drunk, if not in ambrosial nectar, at least in beverage which sailors
are quite as fond of. The usual ceremony of shaving and ducking the
novitiates was then performed with the customary solemnities, conse-
crated by copious libations. Having by these indispensable rites pro-
pitiated the favour of our tutelar deity, he most graciously took his
leave, wishing us a prosperous voyage. We therefore advanced with
confidence into the southern section of his extensive domains.
\ For nearly a fortnight previous to this date, we had light variable
"wrnds from quarters not very favourable to our wishes ; from S.S.W.
to S.S.E. : but we now took the south-east trade-wind, in lat. 1°
-17'' S., long. 26° 42' W. This wind blew from S.S.E. to E.S.E.,
and enabled us to lay our course S.W. for the islands of St. Ann's,
which lie oflf the coast of Brazil, near the mouth of the river Macae.
^ We continued this S.W. course for about twenty days, wafted
gently along by the light trade-wind, attended with pleasant weather.
In this passage we frequently amused ourselves with catching dolphins,
porpoises, benotas, skipjacks, (fee, besides some sharks, and pilot-
fish. Independent of the sport attending the capture of these inhab-

^ ST. ANN'S— CAPE FRIO. [1822.

itants of the deep, some of thera were very acceptable for the table,
after being without fresh provisions for so many days.

September 2d. — We arrived at St. Ann's Islands on Monday, the
2d day of September. These islands lie in latitude 22^ 24' 30" S.,
long. 41° 47' 15" W., directly before the mouth of the river Macae,
about three miles from the shore. The entrance to this river is not
more than forty fathoms broad, and unfit for vessels of more than 250
tons burthen. A little south of its mouth, and close to the shore, is a
ledge of rocks, which must be carefidly avoided ; but every other part
of the coast near the entrance appears to be free from any such
hidden danger.

On tlie northern side of the harbour's mouth is the village of St.
Joao de Macae, consisting of about 125 houses, some of which not
only present a handsome appearance, but are quite commodious in
their internal arrangements. Most of them, however, are of an infe-
rior class, consistmg of a single story, small and inconvenient. The
exteriors of all of them are either painted or whitewashed, ^vhich
gives the village a picturesque appearance from a distance. A few
edifices of superior style and dimensions occupy an eminence near
the mouth of the river, on the summit of which are the church and
flag-staff. Here a flag is displayed w^hen the passage is safe, for the
information of approaching vessels.

In entering the harbour it is necessary to keep close to the rocky
point on the south side, and w^hen abreast of it, to let go an anchor, giving
the vessel about twenty fathoms of cable. The Moro, or castle of
St. Joao, on the north bank of the river, is a conspicuous mark to
designate the bay of St. Ann's. Its situation is in lat. 22° 31' S., long.
42° 8' W. The coast hence to Cape Frio, with its numerous little
islands, will be best understood by referring to the late charts of the
Brazilian coast. In running for this cape, the navigator will find it a
high, rough promontory, separated from the mainland by an inlet,
which forms a snug harbour. The cap of the cape, for shape and
appearance, is the most remarkable and important landfall on this part
of the coast. The land between the promontory and the entrance of
Rio Janeiro is mostly low and sandy ; but as it recedes back into the
country, it rises into elevated and uneven mountains, presentmg a
very beautiful and picturesque appearance. The latitude of the pitch
of Cape Frio is 23° 0' 30" S., long. 42° 2' 45" W.

The harbour of Cape Frio is formed by Cape Island, and is about a
mile in extent each way, with a depth of water varying from twenty
to six fathoms. The best entrance is at the east, and on the south
side of an islet called Jiha dos Porcos. This passage is about a quarter
of a mile in width, and the depth of water in the chaimel varies from
twenty-five to fifteen fathoms, with a bottom of fine sand and mud.
There is also a passage at the west end of the harbour, but that is only,
suitable for boats. About twenty ships may lie in this harbour in
perfect safety. Fresh water may be had at- the wells in the coves on
the N. and N.W. There are wells, also, on an island at the west
end of the harbour, where some huts are to be seen. The tide flows

Sept.] ST. SEBASTIAN'S. 33

here on the days of new and full moon, until nine o'clock, and rises
about five feet.

Vessels bound to Rio Janeiro, when approaching Cape Frio by
night, from E. to S.E., should be careful not to run into the bay to
the north of the cape. Such neglects or inattentions to the ship's
reckoning offen prove fatal to the vessel. The appearance of the
cape in approaching it from this direction is somewhat remarkable ;
rising in two well-defined mounds or hummocks, pointed at their sum-
mits, bearing a very exact resemblance to a lady's bosom. The
Tt'ater about the cape is deep, as it is also around the islands in' the
vicinity. Consequently ships may run for the cape at night with
safety, provided proper attention be paid to the reckoning, and the
weather be tolerably clear.

At the distance of sixty-four miles from Cape Frio, lat. 23^ 2'
45" S., is a small low island, called Flat Island, on which stands a
lighthouse, and at one and a half miles to the west is another island,
more elevated, called Round Island. These islands are sometimes
called Maurice Islands, and are very useful marks for ships running,
for tlie harbour of Rio Janeiro. Vessels bound for this harbour, after
passing Cape Frio, should steer due west, keeping about four leagues
from the shore in the night, and about one league and a half in the
daytime, till they make Round Island, which will be seen before Flat
Island, although the former lies nearly two miles farther to the west-
ward. The currents on this coast generally set due east or west, and
often at the rate of one and a half miles an hour.

Between Cape Frio and the entrance to Rio Janeiro, the greatest
part of the coast is low and sandy, and within the beach are several
extensive lagoons. The only remarkable headland between the cape
and Rio Janeiro is Point or Cape Negro, which is the extremity of a ,
ridsre of high land extending from the north to the seashore. This
headland lies thirty-two miles to the westward of Cape Frio.

In the direction of W.S.W. four leagues distant, within about a
league from the shore, are three small islands, called the Maricas,
about four leagues E. by S. from the entrance to Rio Janeiro. With
Round Island in sight to the westward, the Marica Isles (in a direct
line with each other, nearly north and south) will be descried to the
northward, and may be passed in safety within half a mile.

September 4th. — We arrived at St. Sebastian's, Rio Janeiro, on
Wednesday, the 4th day of September. The entrance to this cele-
brated river is very plain, being formed by a naiTOW opening in a
ledge of rocks, which skirts the coast in this vicinity, and is easily
distinguished by the Gavia Corcovadia mountains, on the south-west
side ol' the harbour. There are no pilots to be found ofT the coast ;
for as there are no hidden dangers to encounter in going into the har-
bour, the assistance of professional pilots is deemed unnecessary.
When the sea-breezes are "strong enough to enable ships to stem the
ebb-tide, vessels of any size may enter this port, by day or night, and
repose in the beautiful basin above with perfect safety. On entering
at night, however, the fort Santa Cruz makes a signal to the city, by
firing two guns, and showing two lights. This is not to be under-

34 . CITY OF RIO JANEIRO. [1832.

atood as interfering with the vessel that is entering the passage ; for
the port regulations of the place require all vessels to bring-to a
little below fort Do Vilganhon. Any vessel attempting to pass before
she has been visited will be fired at from the fort, and the commander
will be liable to imprisonment, in addition to paying a line for each
gun so discharged.

In entering this port, the navigator must take care to pass within
hail of fort Santa Cruz, in order to answer any questions that may be
asked, and he will find sufficient depth of water close to the rocks,
even for a ship of the line. This ceremony complied with, he must
steer for fort Do Vilganhon, opposite to which he must either lie-to
or come to anchor, and not permit any boat to come alongside, except
those of the government, until he obtains a pass, or pratique. This
necessary talisman will open a passage for him to the island of Cobras,
©r Copper Serpent Island, the place of anchorage for merchant-ships.
On this island are works of defence, magazines, dock-yards, wharves, &c.

Rio Janeiro is the capital of all the Portuguese dominions in America.
In former times Bahia dos Todos, or Santos, was the principal seat of
government and chief mart for commerce in the Brazils ; but the dis-
f(4»v€ry and improvement of the gold and diamond mines within one
hundred leagues of the city of Rio Janeiro, or St. Sebastian's, gave a
decided preponderance to the latter. The city is built on a plain at
the west side of the harbour or bay, at the foot of several high moun-
tains which rise behind it. It extends into the bay on a projecting
peninsula, or tongue of land, about four miles within the mouth of the
harbour. The river, or arm of the sea, on which it stands, derives its
name from having been discovered on the day of the feast of St. Jan-
Karius; or on the first day of January, in the year 1516.

The entrance into the harbour from the sea is bounded on the west
^ide by a leaning conic eminence called Sugar-loaf Hill, a gigantic rock
a thousand feet high ; and on the other side by the huge mass of granita
supporting the castle of Santa Cruz. This entrance being narrow, and
well fortified by nature, the port might easily be rendered impregnable
to an enemy. The castle or fortress just named may be considered
the principal work of defence. There is a battery of some extent on
the other side, at the foot of Sugar-loaf Hill; but, like many others
along-shore, it has become almost useless by neglect. The city de-
rives but little protection from its immediate fortifications ; and the
island of Cobras, notwithstanding its contiguity, is little calculated to
afford the city any assistance in case of invasion.

The city is well built, the houses in general being of stone, and two
stories high, having a little balcony before the windows, and a lattice
of wood l^fore the balcony, after the fashion of the European Portu-
guese and Spaniards. The streets are not broad, but quite straight,
crossing each other at right angles. The palace, or imperial resi-
dence, fronts the water ; and, with the public square adjoining, is in
full view from the anchorage. This edifice, however, though exten-
sive in dimensions, has nothing particularly magnificent in its appear-
ance to indicate its -being the mansion of royalty. There are also a
number of churches, but not remarkable for splendour or elegance, ex.-

JSept.] HARBOUR OF RIO JANEIRO. 35

cepting the royal or imperial chapel, which adjoins the palace. On
the same side of the square, also, are the theatre and opera house,
neither of which presents a very striking appearance. The exterior of
the theatre, however, is fully equal to the performances within, which
are wretched abortions. Their operas are better conducted, as the
Brazilians appear to possess a natural talent for music, which they ex-
ecute with much taste and effect.

The market is well supplied, and so eligibly located, that with a
very little trouble, it might be kept in fine order : but the inhabitants
are idolaters at the shrine of Filthiness, whose nostrils, if there be
such a goddess, must be perpetually regaled with the odour of her fa-
vourite incense. The public square before mentioned, and some of
the streets in its vicinity, are kept tolerably clean, but most of them
are disgustingly filthy. Gold-street is the most attractive, being the
general resort of strangers whose object is to procure jewelry and
precious stones, the natural product of the country. Here, however,
they too often suffer from an organized system of imposition and fraud.
Since tliis place has become the seat of government, great numbers
of commercial adventurers have flocked hither from England, Ireland,
Scotland, and the United States. The most of these, under Portu-
guese tuition, prove to be apt pupils in the school of knavery ; so
that from any of them a stranger is more than likely to receive a bit
of paste, while he pays for a genuine gem.

The shops are well supplied with English goods, and all other kinds
of merchandise ; the trade of this place being considerable from va-
rious parts of the world. There is a Chinese warehouse of great ex-
tent ; where, at certain periods, the merchandise of that country may
be purchased at a low rate. Sixty or seventy American and English
mercantile houses are established here, and the export trade is almost
entirely in their hands. The imports consist of English manufac-
tures, and every article of Eiu-opean produce that can find a purchaser
in the Brazilian market. Their principal exports are sugar, coffee, and
hides ; and the Rio coffee holds the third rank in the American market.
Besides these, the country produces wheat, rice, cocoa, cotton, tobacco,
salt, and wood. It has recently been asserted that the trade of Bra-
zil has lately become unprofitable to the foreign merchant, from the ex-
cess of capital employed in it ; and that European produce is now
sold at or below prime cost. Ho^vever this may be, the revenue of
the custom-house at Rio is estimated at one million and a half per
annum. The population of the city is calculated at one hundred and
fifty thousand ; two-thirds of which are slaves.

The harbour of Rio Janeiro is perhaps the finest in the world for
beauty, capacity, and safety ; and were the heat less oppressive than
it is, the surrounding country would be a perfect paradise. As before
stated, it is formed by a narrow opening in the ledge of rocks which
line this part of the coast like a granite palisado, or wall. Notwith-
standing the entrance is so narrow, the basin within this little strait
increases to the width of three or four leagues, speckled with small
islands clothed in perpetual green ; on some of which are deligtful
little hamlets, while others contain elegant countr\'-seats, belonging to

C 2

9f SURROUNDING COUNTRY. • [IS*Z2,

the nobility and gentry of St. Sebastian's. On both sides, the shores
of this romantic gulf are lined, at the water's edge, with neat cottages
occupied by lishermen ; back of wliich, on the green liills, sloping
o-radually towards the water, are villas and farm-houses, churches and
monasteries, all painted white, showing in beautiful relief from the ver-
dant background.

When the mariner has fairly entered this delightful recess from Nep-
tune's turbulent realm, he is iiumediately struck with one of the most
magnificent spectacles in the whole compass of nature ; a bay one hun-
dred miles in circumference, surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of
mountains, which rise in every varied form conceivable, and are cov-,
ered with eternal verdure. Vessels of all dimensions may enter, and
repose with perfect security anywhere below the island on which the
Enghsh hospital is situated. Above this the water becomes gradually
more shallow ; so that in many places there is not sufficient depth for
vessels of more than twenty tons burthen. Even here, however, a
great deal of business is done by means of large boats.

The district of Bragfanza, Iving on the north-east side of the har-
bour, forms also an interesting feature in the picturesque panorama I
am attempting to describe. It comprises a small town of the same
name, and many villages and hamlets along the shores of the basin.
Here is an estate of considerable extent, which^was presented to Sir
Sidney Smith by the late King of Portugal, in compliment for his ser-
vices to the royal family and court.

The country for a great distance around is peculiarly beautiful ; the
mountains being high and woody, and the valleys perfect gardens.
The most delicious fruits are found here in the greatest abundance,
particularly oranges. One tree often exhibits at the same time the
blossom, the fruit just formed, and the same in all its various stages of
advancement to full and perfect ripeness. The quantity of this fruit in
the orange-market is truly astonishing. The pine-apple is also here in
great perfection. In tlie neighbourhood are several botanic gardens,
belonging principally to merchants and private individuals, and con-
taining many rare and valuable plants not to be met with in this country.
Attempts have been made to introduce the tea-plant, but without
success.

All the agricultural and other labours are performed exclusively by
slaves — wretched sufterers in this Eden of the south. Indeed it is
almost impossible for a reflecting mind to view the city and surround-
ing country without being forcibly struck with the contrast which must
necessarily present itself. On the one hand, he may contemplate an
imperial court, unrivalled in luxury ; on the other, slavery in its most
horrid and appalling forms of cruelty and sufiermg ! Nobility and
gentry dozing away their listless lives in indolent supineness ; slaves
bowed to the earth by excessive labour beneath a tropical sun !

The general character of the inhabitants of Rio Janeiro, though far
more refined than that of the northern provinces of Brazil, seldom
rises to an elevated degree on the scale of moral improvement. For-
eigners have not hesitated to brand them with the stigma of craft and
perfidy ; and the corroborating testimony of many journalists is un-

Sept.] DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO. 3T

doubtedly entitled to some credit. So far as my own observatioa ex-»
tends, their peculiar churacterisiics appear to be superstition, indolence,
filthiness, and an irrepressible propensity for overreaching others in,
commercial transactions. I M'ish to be understood as expressing my*
self in general terms ; there are, of course, some bright and honour--
able exceptions ; but tliese are by no means coniined to the higher
classes. The extent to which bribery is carried on in this piace by
the officers of government, especially in the custom-house, is almost
incredible. It is in fact difficult, if not impossible, to bring any busi-
ness with government to a consummation, without a frequent applica^
tion of the golden spur, alias an exorbitant fee — m plain English, a
bribe. Their cupidity seems to laiow no bounds, but eternally cries,
"Give! give!"

In Rio Janeiro ignorance of every thing but trade prevails to a
melancholy degree, literature and science being almost totally unknown
among the people, who are at least a century behind the age they live in.
Nothing but an arbitrary govermnent can restrain them from cutting
each other's throats. Several generations must pass over the stage
before the great mass of Brazilians will be capable of appreciating and
enjoying liberal mstitutions. Those who know how to read are too
indolent for the task ; while others are too lazy to leani. The mag-
nificence and luxury of the wealthy and titled classes form a curious
contrast with their habitual want of neatness and cleanliness. This is
manifested in their skin, in their apparel, in the furniture of their
houses, and in their cookery, which could not fail to disgust a citizea
of the Unitetl States. Their persons are seldom if ever free from a
species of vermin which among us is considered disgraceful ; and
that cutaneous disease which is the necessary concomitant of filth and
unwholesome food is common to all

CHAPTER 11.

Departure from Rio Janeiro to survey the Coast of Patagonia — Cape Corrientes
— White Bay — Rio Colorado — Rio Negro : Character and Manners of the In-
habitants, with Directions for entering the Harbour — Patagonia — Marvellous
Stories — St. Matias's Bay — New Bay — Shooting Bullocks and other Game —
St. George's Bay — Apologj- to the Reader — Cape Blanco — Port Desire, with
Sailing Directions — Port St. JuUan and Santa Cruz, with Instructions for ap-
proaching and entering — A Sabbath-day's Adventure — Description of the Na-
tives, their Size, Dress, Mode of laving. Origin, «&c. — Survey suspended —
Arrival at the Falkland Islands — News of the Henry.

AVe took our leave of Rio Janeiro on Saturday morning, the 7th day
of September, with a fine land breeze and pleasant weather. In look-
ing back upon the beautiful scenery now rapidly receding behmd us,
one could not help regretting that the moral did not better correspond
with the physical aspect of this charming country. Turrets and
ik)mes, castellated towers and gotliic spires, churches, convents, and

38 CAPE CORRIENTES. [1823.

villas, with a mazy forest of masts, surmounted by the flags of almost
every nation, were all fast fading in the distance ; and to the din, noise,
and bustle of a crowded city had succeeded a calm more congenial.
to a contemplative mind.

After leaving behind us the leaning cone, which so forcibly reminds
one of the celebrated falling lower of Pisa, and obtained a good
ofling, we shaped our course to the south-west, and crossed the tropic
of Capricorn, in long. 43° 6' 20^' W. Had not the season been rapidly
advancing which ought to find us in the high latitudes, so that every hour
was precious, I would have remained another day at 8t. Sebastian's, to
"witness the celebration of a high religious festival in honour of the
"nativity of the Blessed Virgin;" an imp>ortant day among the Catho-
lics, who celebrate it with great pomp in all countries.

Our next object being to survey the coast of Patagonia, from Cape
Corrientes to Cape Virgins, on the Magellan Straits, we steered for
the first-named cape, in as direct a course as variable winds would
permit. In this passage we encountered many heavy falls of rain, at
which times we had the wind from the north or north-east.

September I7th. — On Tuesday, the 17th, at seven A. M., the mo-
notony of a ten-days' passage without an incident was agreeably in-
terrupted by the cry of " Land, ho !" from the mast-head. " Land,
ho ! off the starboard bow !" This proved to be Cape Corrientes,
bearing W. by S., distant three leagues. At eleven A. M. we were
close in with it, about one mile off-shore, wind west, and fair weather ;
and at twelve M. we ascertained its latitude to be 37° 57' S., long.
57° 36' 45" W. from Greenwich. Variation by azimuth 1G<» 45'
easterly.

In tracing the coast of the Pampas, called by the Spaniards the
Devil's Country, from Cape Corrientes to the west, for such is the di-
rection of the coast along here, the land appears very low, with
scarcely any elevated point to relieve the monotony of its appearance.
Multitudes of wild cattle were grazing on the wide-spreading plains or
meadows, which extended to the very beach, covered with grass and
clover, and intersected with numerous paths and little creeks or ditches.
We hugged the coast along for some time, without meeting with any
thing worthy of remark, until we came to an extensive inlet, running
westerly, designated by the name of White Bay, as yet but little
known to navigators, although it is properly the coast-mark of Pata-
gonia's northern boundary. It lies in lat. 39° 15' S., long. 61° 50'
W., running into the land westwardly, at a point where the direction of
the coast suddenly changes to the south. • Mpunt Hermosa rises close
by, a little to the north-east. With the single exception of this bay,
there is no inlet between Buenos Ayres and Rio Colorado that will
admit a boat at low water. This latter river is in lat. 39° 49' S.,
long. 61° 57' W. From White Bay the coast resumes its southerly
direction.

September 20th. — On Friday, the 20th day of September, we were
close in with the Bay of All Saints, in lat. 40° 30' S., long. 62° 0'
W., but did not stop to examine it, being anxious to enter Rio Negro
on the following day. To the southward of Rio Colorado, or Red

Sept.] KIO NEGRO. 39

River, the coast is gemmed with islands, and abounds with shoals, ex-
tending one league to the eastward. Among these islands and shoals
there are many good and safe harbours for vessels under three hundred
tons burthen.

September 2\st. — About twelve leagues south and west of these
islands is Rio Negro, in wliich we cast anchor on Saturday the 21st;
our vessel being the first from the United States that ever entered this
river. Previous to this visit of the AVasp, Rio Negro had been of
very little note ; but it is now much frequented, especially by whalers^
who touch here for refreshments. We found here bullocks, sheep,
hogs, and poultry in abundance ; and in tlie autumn or winter (say^
from March to June) any quantity of vegetables and many different
kinds of fruit may be had at this place, on a brief notice, and at a.
very low rate. Good water can be drawn alongside at the last of the
ebb, and wood in any quantity may be cut by the ship's crew, close to
the banks of the river ; notwithstanding the reports of those navigators
on whose authority it is recorded that " south of Rio de la Plata there
is not to be seen a single tree or shrub lit for any mechanical pur-
pose.*'

The inhabitants of this place are principally Spaniards, who are
very friendly to strangers, particularly to citizens of the United States^
with whom they are very anxious to open a trade. The ladies
are generally handsome brunettes, of elegant persons and accom-
-plished manners. There is nothing that savours of vulgarity, even ia
females of the lowest classes. Both sexes, when their pecuniary cir-
cumstances permit it, dress much in the English and American styles
They evince excellent natural capacities, but have little benefited by
education, for the want of schools and liberal establishments. In.
spite of every obstacle, however, many Creoles may be foimd among
them who have improved themselves astonishingly.

Since this country has become independent of Old Spain, and beea
governed by republican institutions, the barbarous custom of the slave-
trade has been done awsty with, and no more slaves are permitted tO'
be brought mto the country ; while all persons born after the 25th of
May, 1818, are free. Under this form of government, also, the mo*
nastic establishments are declining, and the tithing system is totally
abolished.

The follow ing directions may prove acceptable to whalers and others
"^ho frequent this part of the coast : — In coming from the eastward toRic^
Negro, the navigator should endeavour to make the land in about the par-
allel of 40° 52' S., and long. 62^ 15' W., when he will first see Point
Raza, which will be readily known by three remarkable hummocks.
After approaching to within about one league of this point he may
steer south-west towards Rio Negro, taking care not to come into less
than six or eight fathoms of water, with a sandy bottom. The shore
s a continuation of low sandhills, interspersed with heath and brush-
wood, until you approach the river, — where the hillocks oecome more
elevated, and are composed of clear wliite sand, lying in ridges or
undulations, like the waves of the ocean.

About four or five miles south of Point Raza is a singular hillock

40 PATAGONIA. [1822.

of brushwood, having small shrubs towards the east end, which from
the sea appears like a drove of cattle. Eight miles to the south and
west of this is a remarkable gap, about two miles and a half back of
^Jie beach. As you approach the entrance of Rio Negro the range
of white sandhills will terminate, and the mouth of the river, bearing
W.S.W., appears high and bluff on the eastern side. The western
point of the river is low, but rises gradually to the south baranca,
which is high and bluff, terminating in a perpendicular point ; and this
point is a table-land for four or five miles to the westward.

To enter the harbour of Kio Negro without a pilot the south-east
channel is to be preferred, and you must keep along in four, five, or six
fathoms of water, until you bring Point de Maine to bear N.W. Then
steer for the mouth of the river, observing to keep Point Welcome,
■which is a remarkable bluff promontory, about ten yards open of a
low point off the pilot's house. These marks are distinctly seen
■when PoiiU de Maine, the eastern point of the river, bears north-west.
But beware of the flood tide, which sets strong over the north bank ;
and if your vessel draws more than ten feet of water, you must not
attempt to enter until three-quarters flood, when you will have from
two to two and a half fathoms of water between the banks, which will
deepen as you approach Point de Maine. The breakers on the bank
are distinctly seen, and with a southerly wind it frequently breaks all
round the channel. Having passed through between the north and
south banks, you will find four, five, and six fathoms of water ; but
you must be careful and keep the eastern point on board until you are
inside of the point of the Borras ; by which means you will clear the
inner bank, which extends two-thirds of its length outside the har-
bour's mouth. In this river, at the town, there are about two hours
of flood tide, and commonly about ten hours of ebb tide, frequently
running at the rate of five or six miles an hour. But within the
mouth of the river the flood tide runs four hours, and the ebb tide
eight hours, at the rate of three or three and a half miles an hour.
It is high water at the bar, on the days of ftew and full moon, at a
quarter past eleven ; and the water rises there eleven feet on the
spring tides, and eight feet on the neap tides ; but when the wind
blows strongly from the south-east, the tide rises from twelve to four-
teen feet. There is a regular tide along the coast, six hours flood,
and six hours ebb ; but the flood tide inclines rather towards the shore,
about N.E. by N., at the rate of two or three miles an hour. Con-
sequently, in entering the Rio Negro particular attention must be paid
to the currents and tides, which set strongly to the north-east round the
Point de Maine.

September 2.3^. — Having supplied the schooner with wood, water,
and some fresh provisions, we were now in readiness to continue the sur-
vey of this interesting coast, — the seaboard of a country so little
known to geographers and liistorians. Indeed there is scarcely another
region of the western world but what is better known, and has been
more accurately described ; certainly none concerning which so many
contradictory statements and monstrous absurdiiifs have been re-
ported, — fables more difficult to br-lievc than Gulliver's Travels, or the

Sept.] ^'EW BAY. . 41

mythology of ancient Greece. It is true that we have not heard of
Lilliputians, nor even of a nation of centaurs, in Patagonia ; but more
than one navigator has contended for a race of giants, not less than
ten feet in height ! All accounts, however, agree in one importani
fact, viz. that the character, history, and every thing relating to Pata-
gonia are still involved in great obscurity. Even its northern boundary-
has never been accurately ascertained, some extending it to Rio Colo-
rado, and others limiting it to Rio Negro, from which we departed on
Monday, the 23d of September. In due time I shall give the result
of my own observations, merely staling here that this country was
first discovered by Magellan, in 1519, whose account of it is generally
considered to be very defective and erroneous.

From Rio Negro the coast again changes its southerly direction, and
runs westerly for about thirty leagues, when it sweeps round south-
easterly in a broad semicircle, terminating in a peninsula which pro-
jects to the north-east, thus forming an extensive bay or harbour,
or rather gulf, called St. Matias's Bay. At the western extremity of
this bay, somewhat inland, rises Mount St. Antonio, and on the north-
west there is a port of the same name. This is a fine harbour,
though but little frequented : and the bay itself is very convenient for
whaling ships, particularly in the months of September, October, No-
vember, and December, when the whales come in to bring forth their
young. The south part of this bay, as before stated, is formed by a
peninsula, called St. Joseph's, within which, on the north side, is the
Bay of St. Joseph's, and on the south side New Bay, the neck of the
peninsula extending between them. On the east side of St. Joseph's
Bay is Port Valdes, lat. 42° 32' S. I did not become sufficiently ac-
quainted with St. Joseph's Bay to furnish any information of im-
portance respecting it. It was probably in New Bay that iMagellan
ibund such vast numbers of seal and penguins.

September 25th. — AVe anchored in the last-named bay on Wed-
nesday, the 25th, under tJae south shore, in five fathoms of water,
about three miles within N}-mph Point. At ten o'clock. A. M., we
landed on the south side, where we found gray foxes, brown hares,
and mountain deer, in great numbers. We likewise saw many small
pods of hair-seal on the beaches, and several cow-whales in the bay
of a large size, and perfectly tame.

September 26th. — On the following day at two P. M., we landed on
the north side of the bay, where we saw on the plains of the penin-
sula about three thousand bullocks, M'hich were very wild. After
shooting four of the finest of these animals, we returned to the vessel
about eight, P. M. ; and in a few minutes afterward, the other boat
returned from the south shore with thirty-eight hares, eleven foxes,
and four deer. We were thus furnished with a good stock of fresh
meat.

September 27th. — On Friday, the 27th, at eight, A. M., we got
under way for the purjwse of examining the bay, which having finished,
we returned to our former anchorage. At the head of this bay we
found vast forests of heavy timber, some of which would make fine
spars for ships of any size ; being a kind of bastard cedar, vhich is

42 ^EW BAY— PORT ST. ELENA. [1822^

very tough, and when dry becomes extremely light. We likewise
met with many tine springs of fresh water, and saw numerous birds
of beautiful plumage. The waters abound with scale-iish of almost
every variety.

Whale-ships, having good ground tackling, may lie in any part of
this bay in perfect safety, and kill right whales in the calving season
as fast as they can try out the oil. The best anchorage is on the west
side of the bay, in from live to ten fathoms water, about one mile off-
shore, as easterly winds here seldom if ever blow with sufficient
violence to injure any ship lying with an anchor ahead.

This bay is likewise an excellent place for ships to procure refresh-
ments, either witli dogs or muskets. I have no doubt that two good
gunners or riflemen could shoot one hundred or one hundred and fifty
hares in a day ; and six or eight Spaniards, who are expert with their
apparatus for taking wild cattle, might make captives of at least two
hundred fine fat bullocks in the same time.*

September 2Sth. — On Saturday, the 28th, at two o'clock, A. M., we
again got under way, and prosecuted our surveys towards the south. In
following the course of the shore, which now ran for several miles in
a southerly direction, we passed several small open bays, but found
no place of shelter until we reached the latitude of 44° 33' S., where
we made Port St. Elena. This may be easily known by the promon-
tory and hill of St Joseph ; a little to the southward of which the
direction of the coast turns towards the west, and here we opened tlie
port. Its entrance is about one mile wide, and there is good anchorage
on the west side of the bay, behind a small peninsula, where a vessel
may lie in four, five, six, or seven fathoms of water, secure from all but
southerly winds.

In entering this port, you will see the small island of Florida,
with a few fur and hair-seal on its shores, lying at about half a
mile's distance from the starboard shore. Vessels may enter on
either side of this island. Fresh water c^ be procured at the head
of this harbour, but not of the best quality. The tides rise here about
twenty-five feet, and it is full sea at half-past four o'clock, on full and
change days. Port St. Elena is in lat. 44° 33' S., long. 65° 33' W.
Variation by azimuth 20° 15' easterly.

1 September 30th. — We left Port St. Elena on Monday, the 30th, and
steered towards the south-west, keeping the boats constantly along
shore while daylight lasted. The coast here bends in towards the
west, and then sweeps round in a semicircular curve to the south-east,
where it projects out in a point, called Cape Two Bays ; thus forming
an extensive open bay, known by the name of Camarones Bay, near
the end of which is the small island Blanco, on which we found a
few seal. Off Cape Two Bays are several small islands, the one
lying farthest off shore is called Raza Island, being at a distance

' * When I arrived at Salem, Mass., from the Pacific, in 1824, 1 recommended a voyage to this
place, for the purpose of procuring a cargo of jerk'd beef, hides, and tallow. I suspect that tbe
reason the Salem merchants did not take hold of this valuable suggestion was because they did
not place the most implicit confidence in the information I gave them. The consequence is, that
this valuable discovery still lies undisturbed, and will perhaps remain so for many years to come,
unless, indeed, I should fortunately obtain the means of making a voyage there myself. If this be
effected, there will be a jJenty of merchants ready and eager to embark in the enterpriso •

Ocu] CATE TWO BAYS. 43

of six or seven miles from the cape. On tliis island likewise are to be
found both fur and hair-seal.

Cape Two Bays, as its name imports, is a projecting point between
two bays, forming the south part of Camarone's Bay, and the north
part of the great bay of St. George. About the shores of the last-named
bay are numerous rocks and islands, containing seal of both kinds,
and behind some of which vessels may anchor in safety. Port Melo,
in lat. 45^ 3' S., long. 52° 30' W., is the first safe harbour to be
foimd after entering St. George's Bay from the north. It is fronted by
the Escobar and Lagoona Islands. Here ships of any size may lie
iji perfect safety, in from seven to five fathoms of water, with a sandy
bottom. The entrance passage is between Escobar Island and Point
Portugal, or the eastern point ; and at about one mile within tliis point,
the water has a depth of five or six fatllbms. The tide rises here
about eighteen feet, and it is full sea at twenty-two minutes past four
o'clock, on full and change days. In this snug and safe harbour, at
the head of the bay, vessels may fill fresh water of good quality, but
it is difficult to obtain wood.

' In this port and its vicinity are many ostriches, gray and brown
foxes, hares, deer, guanacoes, and a few wild cattle. This port is also
ihe resort of many different kinds of wild geese and other fowl. On
the shores are found seal, both hair and fur ; together with some sea-
elephants, and penguins of different kinds. Here the latter lay their
eggs in such abundance, that in the month of October a ship's crew
might collect forty or fifty barrels in a few days.

Twenty-five miles to the south-west of Melo, in lat. 45° 13' S., is
port Malespina, fronted by the Viana Islands, or rocks, behind which
vessels may find shelter from every wind, the south-east excepted. In
approaching this small bay, you will see the Paps of Pineda to the
north, abreast of which you may anchor in from ten to six fathoms of
water, fine sandy ground. There are many other good anchoring
places between this and Cape Blanco, which require no particular
directions, as the coast is bold and clear of dangers, witliin half a
mile of the shore. Easterly winds never blow here with any degree
of violence ; so that whalemen may cruise about these shores in the
calving season with the greatest safety.

Before I proceed farther south, I deem it expedient to make one
observation. I am well aware, that to the generality of readers this
coast-surveying business and sailing directions must appear very dry,
dull, and uninteresting. To such I would say, in the langiiage of my pro-
fession, " Courage, my hearties, there's land ahead !*' This part of
our cruise will soon be finished ; and admitting the possibility thai
the descriptions and directions here given may prove tiic means, under
Providence, of preventing a single nautical disaster, I feel confident
that the good-natured reader will readily forgive their deficiency in
incident and interest. AVerc I disposed to make a romance of this
narrative, it would not be a difticult matter to conjure up some very
stirring incidents and startling adventures, on the shores of a region
"which is so little known that no one could contradict me. Magellan
and his companions have done so before me, and so have many others

44 PORT DESIRE. [1822.

of a much more recent date, whose "microscopic eye" could magnify
a molehill to a mountain, a smart breeze to a tremendous tornado, and
a few floating icebergs to a permanent wall of transparent adamant.
I simply relate facts witliout embellishment ; and if I encounter a horde
of Patagonians, I will give as accurate an account of their size and
appearance as circumstances ^Yill permit. Having thus declared my
purpose, once for all, 1 beg the reader's indulgence while I proceed.

October 5t/i. — We arrived at Cape Blanco, the southern point of St.
George's Bay, on Saturday, the 5th day of October. The latitude
of this cape' is 47^ 13' S., long. 05^ 55' W. Variation per azimuth
22'^ easterly. In approaching this cape it is necessary to be cautious,
as there are many shoals off the coast hereabouts, which must be
carefully avoided.

About eleven leagues soirth of the cape is Port Desire, in lat. 47^
46' S., long. 65^ 59' 30" W., forming the seaport of a large river.
The mouth of the harbour is very narrow, and has many rocks and
shoals about it. It continues to be narrow for about two miles and a
half from the entrance, when it expands into a broad basin, sprinkled
with a number of small islands, one of which is covered with remark-
ably large seal. Near the mouth of this port, on the south side of its
entrance, is a remarkable rock, rising from the water like a church-steeple
of gothic order, and is known by the appropriate appellation of Steeple
Kock. This rock forms a conspicuous landmark for mariners who
are approaching the harbour, which would otherwise be difficult to
find. The tides are very rapid about this part of the coast, running at
the rate of about eight miles an hour, nearly north and south, and
rising twenty-five feet at each flood. The coast along here, from Cape
Blanco to Cape de los Desvelos, runs ahnost directly south, a distance
of about twenty-five leagues.

In running for the harbour of Port Desire, it is necessary to bring
the mouth of the river to bear AV.S.W., Penguin Island S.E. by S.,
Steeple Rock S.W. by W., the northernmost land N.N.W., and bring
two rocks to bear N.E. by N. These bearings will point out the
extent of the reef which runs off from the northern point of the
entrance ; after passing which you may run as far up the harbour as
you please (as it is clear of danger), and choose your ground for
anchoring ; taking care not to bring-to in less than seven fathoms at
high water, when the bottom will be found to be soft.

There are two springs on the south side of the river, about two
miles from the beach, or in a line S.S.E. from Steeple Rock, from
v.'hich water of a good quality can be obtained in abundance. Os-
triches and wild beasts of various kinds resort to these springs to
allay their tliirst. At a short distance from the coast, towards the in-
terior, there are wild cattle, red and gray foxes, deer, hares, and
nutria in abundance. The country abounds with guanacoes, resem-
bling our deer, but much larger, some of them behig thirteen hands
high, remarkably swift, and very shy. On the islands in the vicinity
of this port are fur and hair-seal, and sea-elephants. Penguins,
moUymois, and many other oceanic birds abound on these islands,

Oct,] PORT ST. JULIAN— SANTA CRUZ. 45

where they form their rookeries for the purpose of laying their eggs
and hatching their young.

Penguin Island lies about three leagues to the south of Port Desire,
and forms the northern point of Sea-lion's or Bear's Bay, so called
from the great number of hair-seal which resort thither. Off the south
point of this bay, at the distan(;e of about four miles, are the Eddy-
stone Rocks ; and close to the land, at the bottom of a little cove to
the southward, is Flat Island. Inland, a little to the south, is to be
seen a mountain called Montevideo.

From Cape de los Desvelos the coast takes a south-west direction,
for about eighty miles, to Port St. Julian. Between them, however,
lies St. Estevan, aljout five leagues from the cape, — a rocky shoal,
and dangerous to approach in the night.

October dtk. — We came to anchor in the port of St. Julian on
AVednesday, the 9th, at one o'clock P. M., and found it to be a safe
harbour. The entrance to this port is in lat. 49^ 8' S., long. 67°
40' 15" W. Variation per azimuth 23° easterly. It is somewhat
diflicult to find the entrance to this port, on account of its southern or
outer point projecting past the northern poiru, so as to conceal the
opening. It may be known, however, by a large white cliff, stretch-
ing along shore from the south almost to the mouth of the harbour. No
trees are to be seen, but there are some dark bushes on the sides of
the hills. The bar at the entrance of this port sometimes shifts and
changes its position ; previous to attempting an entrance, therefore, I
would recommend sending in a boat to sound. In entering the har-
bour the course is about souih-half-west, and the water sufficiently deep
v^hen you are once over the bar, on which will be found, in the chan-
nel, about foiu" fathoms at full sea. The tide rises here about twenty
feet. Both wood and water may be obtained at this place, though
with some difficulty ; and a ship can lie here in perfect safety from all
Avinds. The natives of the interior seldom visit this port except for
the purpose of fishing.

October \Oth. — On Thursday, the 10th, we again got underway,
and resumed our task. Between St. Julian's and Santa Cruz the
shore, which is bold and free from danger, runs in a south-west direc-
tion, and the distance is about tliirty leagues. The entrance to Santa
Cruz harbour is in lat. 50^ 12' S., long. 68° 13' W. The land to the
north of the harbour is steep chalk hills, and the mouth of the river is
obstructed with a number of rocks, one of which shows itself above
water, and is called Sea-lion's Island. The river penetrates into the
country' in a north-west direction, and widens as you advance. This
river was first discovered in 1520, by Don Juan Serrano, captain of
the St. Jago, who accompanied Magellan in his voyage round the
■world. The ship was wrecked in this river, but the crew were
saved.

October \2lh. — On Saturday, the 12th, we came to anchor in the port
of Santa Cruz, where, as usual, we made such surveys and observa-
tions as were deemed beneficial to the interests of nautical science.
Ships touching at this port may supply themselves with fish, wood,
and excellent water. In addition to this, two men expert with the rifle

49 NATIVES OF PATAGONIA. [1822.

could 80on furnish the crew with an abundance of fresh meat, By
shooting beeves, foxes, and hares, all of which are found in great
plenty in a valley of the interior, not more than five miles from our
anchorage. Such sportsmen, however, must be on their guard, as the
natives frequently visit this extensive valley for the purpose of grazing
their horses.

October I3M. — On the day following that of our arrival at Santa
Cruz I penetrated some miles into the country', accompanied by two
men only, leaving others to guard the boat. It was Sunday, and I
wished for a little relaxation from the duties to which I had, for some
weeks, so assiduously applied myself; we therefore strolled leisurely
into the interior, until we arrived in view of the valley before men-
tioned. Here we discovered a band of about two hundred native
Patagonians, all on horseback, attending to a drove of about three
thousand guanacoes.

With such inadequate support, and being at least eight miles from
my vessel, I thought it most prudent to avoid an interview with this
formidable band of equestrian herdsmen, of whose amicable disposi-
tion I had not the means of gaining assurance. Under different cir-
cumstances, however, I think I might have made a lucrative specula-
tion, by purchasing of them the skins of wild cattle, foxes, nutria, and
guanacoes. As it was, acting on the principle that " discretion is the
better part of valour," we concealed ourselves in some underbrush ;
where, without being seen ourselves, we could observe the movements
and study the appearance and costume of this singular people at our
leisure.

Their stature was of the common measurement, saj- from five feet
ten inches to six feet ; a few might have boasted three or four more
inches, but their average height was about six feet. Their complex-
ion was of a deep copper-colour, similar to the aborigines of our own
country, with long, straight, black hair, which did not appear to have
any of the properties of " hog's bristles,'* as one navigator has repre-
sented, but soft and pliable. They were all well-made, robust, and
athletic ; but I was not near enough to observe that remarkable diminu-
tiveness of hands and feet which has been attributed to the formidable
giants of Patagonia.

They were generally clothed in skins of the guanaco, or some
other animal, with the flesh side out. These appeared to be confined
to the body by a narrow strip of the same material, but by what kind
of fastening I could not ascertain. Some of them, however, were
evidently clad in cloth of some kind or other ; whether of their own
manufacture or not, it is difficult to conjecture. The shape and fash-
ion of their cloth garments, however, must be peculiar to themselves.
From the opportunity I had of inspecting them, I should agree with
the description of Captain Wallace, — that this apparel was a square
piece of cloth made of the downy hair of tlie guanaco, through which
a hole was cut out for the head, with side slips for the arms, and the
rest, sustained by the shoulders, hung down in folds to the knees, or
was confined to the body with a girdle. Many of them had a kind
of legging or buskin, made of skin, extending from the top of the

Oct.] NATIVES OF PATAGONIA. 47

calf to the foot. Their horses, which displaj^d a great deal of spirit,'
were not of the largest size, but handsomely formed, and in excellent^
condition. The bridles were similar to our halters, made of a thong '
•of skin ; but whether their bits and spurs were of wood, or any other
material, it was impossible for me to determine. Something like a
saddle formed a seat for the rider, who managed his animal with
much tact and dexterity, and rode with an ease and grace not easily
acquired by art.

Some voyagers have suggested that these Indians of Patagonia are
descendants of the natives of the Canary Islands, who were all a tall
people ; and it is said that they bury their dead on the eastern shores,
as looking to the countr)'' of their ancestors. I have found several of
these graves on the Atlantic coast of Patagonia, covered with large
heaps of stones to guard the bodies from the ravages of wild beasts.
But if this circumstance proves any thing, it is the fact that all un-
civilized people have a superstitious veneration or reverence for the
east. Bougainville assigns them a different origin, and suggests that
they might have sprung from the Tartars, as in their roaming propen-
sities and equestrian habits they much resemble that people. If reports
be true, they are also like the Tartars in another respect — that of -
pillaging caravans and robbing travellers. I

That their life is pastoral as well as predatory I have no doubt ;'
as they are frequently seen in such companies as I have just de-
scribed, watching over their flocks or herds of guanacoes while they
are grazing, surrounding them on horseback, and arresting such as
seem disposed to desert the fold. Those not actually employed in
this particular service are grazing their horses, or refreshing them-
eelves.

It is highly probable that when the grassy nutriment becomes ex-
hausted in one valley they remove to another ; like the sons of Jacob,
whose flocks having exausted the vales of Hebron and Shechem, de-
parted thence, and said, " Let us go to Dothan." In this respect they
resemble the Arabs, among whom, says the Rev. Michael Russel, a
pastoral and predatory life " is accounted far more noble than that
which leads to a residence in towns, or even in villages. They think
it, as Arvieux remarks, more congenial to liberty ; because the man
who with his herds ranges the desert at large, will be far less likely
to submit to oppression than people with houses and lands." In
another place the same excellent writer observes that the life of a
migratory shepherd or herdsman " has a very close alliance with the
habits of a freebooter ; antl the attentive reader of the ancient history
cf the Israelites will recollect many instances wherein the descendants
of Isaac gave ample proof of tlieir relationship to the posterity of
Ishmael. The character of Abimelech the son of Gideon, for ex-
ample, cannot be viewed in any other light than that of a captain of
marauders."

But whether the Patagonians be shepherds or robbers, or both —
whether they be descended from the ancient natives of the Canaries,
the Tartars of Northern Asia, the Arabs of its southern regions, or
the lost tribes of Israel — or are the natural production of the region

p
48 ARRIVAL AT THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. [1821J.

they inhabit — one thing is certain, that about two hundred of these
copper-coloured gentlemen kept three hungry (.'hristians fasting in a
bunch of inidcrbrush for the best part ol" a Sabbath-day. As they
evinced no intent ioji of changing their gromid, we were compelled to
hold ours^ as the least movement on our part would at once have ex-
posed our persons to view ; and that might possibly have been attended
with a hazard which I was not then prepared to incur. We therefore
thought proper to remain in our place of concealment until we could
leave it under the cover of darkness. This we finally efiected, and
arrived safe on board the schooner at about three o'clo<;k in the
morning.

October 14///. — Having enjoyed the refreshment of food and sleep
after our adventure of yesterday, we prepared to leave Santa Cruz;
and at eleven o'clock A. M. were again under way and steering from
the mouth of the river, being now within forty-five leagues of Cape
Virgin, the nortliern point of the Straits of Magellan, where our sur-
vey was to terminate, imtil we liad paid a visit to the Falkland
Islands, and after that to the Antarctic Seas.

At about sixty miles south from Santa Cruz is Point Varella, whence
ihe shore runs S. by E. to the river Gallegos. This part of the coast
is one continued chain of rocks and reefs, which stretch partly across
the entrance of the river just named. In steering along here in the
night it is necessary to give the shore a good berth. The entrance of
the river Gallegos is in lat. 54° 41' S., long. 69° 2' W. Variation
per azimuth 23° 15' easterly. From hence the coast tends to E.S.E.
about fifty miles, to Cape Virgin, the northern boundary of the straits,
as before mentioned ; and so called by Magellan because he discovered
it on the feast of St. Ursula.

October I6lh. — Having thus thoroughly examined the coast of Pata-
gonia from Cape Corrieijtcs to Cape Virgin, keeping the boats con-
stantly in-shore, while the schooner followed them at from two to three
miles' distance, we prepared, in conformity to my instructions, to visit
the Falkland Islands. Accordingly, at eleven o'clock A. M. we took
our departure from Cape Virgin, and steered an easterly course, with
the wind W. by N., and fair weather ; and on Friday, the 18th, at
noon, we arrived in safety at New Island, one of the Falkland group,
and cast anchor on its eastern side, in Shallop Cove, in three fathoms
of water. Here we found the second mate of the schooner Henry,
of New- York, with two of her crew, gathering eggs. The reader
will recollect that this vessel was commanded by my old friend Cap-
Jain Johnson, and left New-York about the time that we did. Captain
J. was now on a six weeks' cruise in search of the Aurora Islands,
but without success.

FALKLAND ISLANDS. ^

CHAPTER m.

The Falkland Islanda — History, Description, and Natural Productions — Pen-*
guia, Albatross, &c. — Description of a .South Sea Rookery — Arrival at Port
Louis — Shooting Bullocks and Geese — Departure from Port Louis — A Search
for the Aurora Islands — Perilous Situation among Icebergs — Kergulen's Laud
— Christmas Harbour — The Sea-elephant — Aiitarctic Sej«, opea and tem-
perate in lat. GP 50'.

The Falkland Islands form a group or cluster in the South Atlantic
Ocean, about eighty leagues east from Cape A irgin, on the Straits of
Magellan ; extending north and south from lat. 50"^ 58' to 52^ 46' S.,.
and east and west from long. 57" 32' to 61^ 29' W. They were first
seen in 1592, by Captain Davis, who sailed under the command of
Sir Thomas Cavendisli, and two years afterward by Sir Richard Haw-
kins. They were afterward successively seen by other navigators,
such as Dampier, Cowley, Strong, <fec. The latter gave them their
present name, in honour of Viscount Falkland.

There is no appearance whatever of these islands having ever been,
inhabited previous to their discovery by Europeans ; and the naviga-
tors who first landed on their shores found the animals so totally un-
acquainted with man that the birds suft'cred themselves to be taken by
the hand, and even settled upon the heads of the people.

The first attempt at settling these islands was made by the French,
after losmg Canada, in 1763, who selected them as a place of shelter
and refreshment for vessels bound to the South Seas. For this pur-
pose they established a little colony on the eastern island, at Berkley
Sound, which they denominated the Bay of Acheron. Two years
afterward the British took possession of these islands, and settled a
colony in Poit Egmont. But neither attempt succeeded. The French
ceded their settlement to the Spaniards in 17G7, and the English,
abandoned theirs, as useless, in 1774. The whole country is now
claimed by the government of Buenos Ayres, of whom it might be
purchased on advantageous terms.

it is my opinion that something might be made of this countr)''.
The soil is good, clear of rocks, and susceptible of easy tillage and
high cultivation. Luxuriant meadows, or plains, in the interior, afford
excellent grazing for cattle all the year round. I have killed wild
cattle in Falkland Sound that produced from sixty to seventy pounds of
rough tallow ; and the extensive grassy plains abound with some of
the finest wild horses in the world. Though destitute of trees there
is no want of fuel, the low gromids producing an abundance of excel-
lent peat or turf, which burns well. |

The climate is temperate and salubrious, free from the extreme*
of heat or cold, though subject to frequent rains and stormy winds.
The soil is everywhere well watered bv rimaing streams, which are

f^ I THE PENGUIN AND ALBATROSS. [182iJ.

never frozen ; and the ice on the lakes is seldom suflicicutly strong to
sustain the weight of a man. There are numerous excellent and
commodious harbours, and fresh water, of a good quality, in any
quantities desired. AVood, however, cannot be obtained at any of
ihem, except it be drift wood. Each of the islands abounds with wild
horses, cattle, hogs, foxes, rabbits, geese, teal, ducks, rooks, nellies,
albatross, mollymois, petrel, penguins, and shags ; besides a variety
of land birds. Some fine sea-elephants, together with fur and hair-
seal, are found on the shores, and a variety of scale-fish may be taken
from the waters.

There is a tall grass grows here, and lussacks, or flag-grass, brush-
wood, and shrubs, some of which bear berries of a pleasant acid
flavour ; also celery, cresses, sorrel, and a plant which some call the
tea-plant, as it makes an excellent beverage of a similar flavour.
There is another vegetable called sappinctte, or the varnish plant ; it
lias the appearance of a green hillock, rising about three feet above
the surface of the ground, and there exudes from it a resinous sub-
stance, which in flavour and odour resembles gum-ammoniac.

The feathered tribes arc very numerous on tliese lonely isles of tlie
southern hemisphere, both in the South Seas and in the South Pacific
Ocean. Of penguins there are four kinds which resort to the Falkland
Islands ; viz. the king penguin, the macaroni, the jackass, and the rook-
ery. The first of these is much larger than a goose ; the other three
are smaller, difiering in appearance in several particulars. They all walk
upright, as their legs project from their bodies in the same direction
with their tails ; and when fifty or more of them are moving in file,
they appear at a distance like a company of juvenile soldiers. They
carry their heads high, with their wings drooping like two arms. As
the feathers on the breast are delicately while, with a line of black
running across the crop, they have been aptly compared, when seen
at a little distance, to a company of children with white aprons tied
round their waists with black strings. This feathered animal may be
said to combine the qualities of men, fishes, and fowls : upright like
the first ; their wings and feet acting the part of fins, like the second ;-
and furnished with bills and feathers, like the third. Their gait on
land, however, is very awkward ; more so than that of a jack-tar just
landed from a long voyage ; their legs not being much better adapted
for walking than their wings are for flying.

The next most remarkable bird to be found on these shores is the
penguin's intimate associate and most particular friend, the albatross.
This is one of the largest and most formidable of the South Sea birds ;
being of the gull kind, and taking its prey upon the wing. Like many
other oceanic birds, the albatross never comes on land except for the
purpose of breeding ; when the attachment that exists between it and
the penguin is evmced in many "remarkable instances ; indeed it seems
as firm as any that can be formed by the sincerest friends. Their
nests are constructed with great uniformity near to each other ; that
of the albatross being always in the centre of a little square, formed
by the nests of four penguins. But more of this in its proper place.

Another sea-fowl peculiar to these islands is called the upland

Oct.] A SOUTH SEA ROOKERY. 5}

goose, and is about the size of our domestic geese ; very palatabi©
when cooked, being sweet, tender, and juicy. Their plumage is rich
and glossy ; that of the gander a dazzling white ; his bill being short
and black, and his feet yellow. The edges of the feathers which
cover his breast and neck are black. The down is nearly equal to
that of the swan, and would make beautiful trimming for ladies' dresses.
But the down of the albatross is superior to any thing of the kind that
I have ever seen ; though that of the shag approaches the nearest to
it in quality. If any method could be invented to divest it of that
disagreeable fishy odour peculiar to all oceanic birds, it would be the
most valuable down ever brought to this country ; and I believe that
their feathers might be made equally as valuable as geese feathers.

The teal is likewise found here, and far surpassing in beauty those
of this country. Their bills and feet are blue ; their M'ings of a golden
green ; and the plumage of their bodies more brilliant and shining than
that of the pintado. The ducks are similar to those of our own
country. There is also a goose here, called the lowland goose, which
somewhat resembles our tame geese. The males are of a variegated
hue, a kind of mixture of white and dark gray, chiefly white. The
females are mostly gray, and resemble the brant of the United States.
They are not quite so large as our geese, and feed on shellfish and
rock kelp, which gives their flesh a very unpleasant flavour. i

Oct. 19. — On the day after our arrival at New Island, all hands
"Were set to work, in the discharge of their peculiar and various duties.
A part of the crew were engaged in refitting the schooner, by repairing
her sails, rigging, &;c. Another part were occupied in filling water ;
and the remainder were employed in gathering eggs from the rookeries
on the back side of the island. As the latter process is not destitute
of interest, I shall take this opportunity to make the reader better
acquainted with a South Sea rookery, which is certainly a great curiosity. ^^^
Indeed I know of few peculiarities in the history of animated nature "^P
that are better calculated to lead a reflecting mind to a serious con-
templation of the merciful economy of Providence, in his government
of the creatures to which he has given existence, than the one now
under consideration.

: By turning back to the " Introductory Sketch," page xxiv., the reader
will find in a note my definition of the word rookeri/, as applied to
certain oceanic animals. It is a temporary encampment of such ani-
mals, for the purpose of bringing forth their young ; and they unite in
immense numbers, and with great industry to construct it.

When a sufficient number of penguins, albatross, &c. are assembled
on the shore, after a deliberate consultation on the subject, they pro-
ceed to the execution of the grand purpose for which they left their
favourite element. In the fu'st place, they carefully select a level piece
of ground, of suitable extent, often comprising four or five acres, and
as near the water as practicable ; always preferring that which is the
least encumbered with stones, and other hard substances, with which,
it would be dangerous to have their eggs come in contact. As soon
as they are satisfied on tliis point, they proceed to lay out the plan of
their proiected encampment ; which task they commence by tracing a

5S • A SOUTH SEA ROOKERY. [1822.

well defined parallelogram, of sufficient magnitude to accommodate
the whole frateniity, say from one to five acres. One side of this
square runs parallel with the water's edge ; and is always left open
for egress and regress ; the other three sides are differently arranged.

These industrious feathered laljourers next proceed to clear all the
gromid within the square from obstructions of every kind; picking
up the stones in their bills, and carefully depositing them outside of
the lines before mentioned, until they sometimes, by this means, create
quite a hltlc w^ll on three sides of the rooker\-. Within this range
of stones and rubbisli they form a pathway, six or eight feet in widths
and as smooth as any of the paved or gravelled walks in the New-
York Park, or on the Battery. This path is for a general promenade
by day, and for the sentinels to patrol at night.

Havinir thus finished their little works of defence on tlie three land-
sides, they next layout the .whole area in little squares of equal sizes,
formed by narrow paths which cross each other at right angles, and
which are also made very smooth. At each intersection of these
paths an albatross constructs her nest, while in the centre of each little
square is a penguin's nest ; so that each albatross is surrounded by
four penguins ; and each penguin has an albatross for its neighbour, in four
directions. In this regular manner is the whole area occupied by these
feathered sojourners, of different species ; leaving, at convenient dis-
tances, accommodations for some other kinds of oceanic birds, such as
the shag, or greien cormorant, and another which the seamen call Nelly.

Although the penguin and the albatross are on sucli intimate terms*
and appear to be so affectionately and sincerely attached to each other,
they not only form their nests in a very different manner, but the pen-
guin will even rob her friend's nest whenever she has an opportunity.
The penguin's nest is merely a slight excavation in the earth, just deep
enough to prevent her single egg rolling from its primitive position ;
while the albatross throws up a little mound of earth, grass, and shells*
eight or ten inches high, and about the size of a water-bucket, on the
summit of which she forms her nest, and thus looks down upon her
nearest neighbours and best friends.

None of the nests in these rookeries are ever left unoccupied for a
single moment, until the eggs are hatclied and the young ones old
enough to take care of themselves. The male goes to sea in search
of food until his hunger is appeased; he then promptly returns and
affectionately takes the place of his mate, while she resorts to the
same element for the like purpose. In the interchange of these kind
offices, they so contrive it as not to leave the eggs uncovered at all ;
the present incumbent (say tlie female) making room for the partner
of her cares and pleasures on liis return from the sea, whUe he nestles
in by her side until the eggs are completely covered by his feathersi
By this precaution they prevent their eggs being stolen by the other
birds, which would be the case were they left exposed ; for the females
are so ambitious of producing a large family at once, that they rob each
other whenever they have an opportunity. Similar depredations are
also committed by a bird called the rook, wliich is equally mischievous
a& the monkey. The royal penguin is generally foremost in felonies

Oct.] A SOUTH ^EA ROOKERY. ' 53

of this description, and never neglects an opportunity of robbing a
neighbour. Indeed, it often happens that when the period of incuba-
tion is terminated, the young brood will consist of three or four differ-
ent kinds of birds in one nest. This is strong circumstantial evidence
that the parent bird is not more honest than her neighbours. ,^

To stand at a little distance and observe the movements of the birds
in these rookeries, is not only amusing, but edifying, and even affect-
ing. The spectacle is truly worthy the contemplation of a philosophic
mind. You will see them marching round the encampment in the
outside path, or public promenade, in pairs, or in squads of four, six,
or eight, forcibly reminding you of officers and subalterns on a parade
day. At the same time, the camp, or rookery, is in continual motion;
some penguins passing through the different paths, or alleys, on their
return from an aquatic excursion, eager to caress their mates after a
temporary absence ; while the latter are passing out, in their turn, in
quest of refreshment and recreation. At the same time, the air is
almost darkened by an immense number of the albatross hovering over
the rookery like a dense cloud, some continually lighting and meeting
iheir companions, while others are constantly rising and shaping their
course for the sea.

To see these creatures of the ocean so faithfully discharge the
various duties assigned them by the great Creator ; to witness their
affectionate meetings after a short absence on their natural element ;
to observe their numerous little acts of tenderness and courtesy to each
other ; — all this, and much more that might be mentioned, is truly
interesting and affecting to the contemplative and sympathetic spectator.
I have observed them lor hours together, and could not help thinking
that if there was only as much order, harmony, and genuine affection
between wedded pairs of the human race, as there is among these
feathered people, the connubial state would then indeed be " all that
we dream of heaven." A moral philosopher could not, perhaps, be
more usefully employed, for a few days, than in contemplating the
movements and operations of a South Sea rookery, and marking the
almost incredible order and regularity with which every thmg is per-
formed. Such a spectator could not fail to confess, that so wonderful
an instinct must be " the Divinity which stirs within*' them.

October 23d. — The schooner Henry, Captain Johnson, who had been
vainly cruising for six weeks in search of t!ie Am'ora Islands,* returned
to New Island on Wednesday, the 23d. During his absence, Mr.
George Noble, second mate of the Hemy, and the two men left witli
him at New Island, had succeeded in gathering a sufficient quantity of
eggs to supply their schooner, and our men had not been inactive in
the same employment. These eggs, when packed in salt, will keep
good a long while, and are quite a luxuiy to those who have been con-
fined to salt provisions for any length of time.

New Island, on the east side of which both vessels were now over-
hauled and refitted, is, with the exception of the Jasons, the most
westerly of the Falkland group, lying in long. 61° 20' W., while the

* The history of these imaginanj islands will be found on a subsequent page»

94 THE FALKLAND IbLAJSDH. [1822.

most easterly point of them, called Cape St. Philip's, is in long. 57^^ 32':
The whole group lies easterly from the Straits of Magellan, at the
distance of about three hundred and thirty miles, consisting of two
large islands of very irregular shape, and more than seventy leagues in
circumference, with a number of small oncb. scattered around them.
' These two large islands are separated by a channel called Falkland
Sound, running between them in a south-west and north-easterly direc-
tion, about twelve leagues in length, and from one to three in breadth.
This channel or sound has many little islands in it, on its south-east
side, and several others near the opposite shore. Of the two prin-
cipal islands, or maloons, the most western (or rather north-western)
is called the English Maloon, and comprises many excellent ports on
every side of it ; particularly one, on the north-west, called Port Eg-
mont, where the English established a colony in 1764, which they
abandoned in 1774. This harbour is well sheltered by several small
islands which lie in front of it.

The other large island on the south-eastern side of Falkland Sound
is called the Spanish Maloon, or Soledad, or the Eastern Falkland.
It is twenty-four leagues in length from N.IS.E. to S.S.W., but quite
narrow in several places, one of which is reduced to an isthmus. On
the north-east side of the Spanish Maloon is Berkley Sound, or the
Puerto de la Soledad of the Spaniards, where M. Bougainville estab-
lished his French settlement in 1764, which was afterward ceded to
the Spaniards. It is also called Port Louis Bay. This harbour is
six miles wide at its entrance, and extends in to the westward about
four and a half leagues. Some rocky flats lie off the bay, but they
are not dangerous. When advanced half-way within the sound, you
will perceive some small islands, called Sea-lion's Islands, which you
may pass on either side without danger or difficulty, keeping two
cables' length from the shore. From the mouth of the bay to the
anchorage, the depth of water lessens gradually from forty to four
fathoms ; here you may choose your own anchorage, only keep clear
of the kelp or rock-w^eed.

To the eastward and southward of Soledad are many dangers.
Vessels, therefore, that are passing along this coast should always
give the island a good berth in the night ; but in daylight they may
follow the course of the shore by keeping just outside the kelp, which
will serve them instead of a branch pilot, as there are no hidden dan-
gers among these islands where there is no kelp to be seen. There
is an island lying off to the south, about seven leagues from Soledad,
called Beauchesne Island, in lat. 52° 42' S., long. .58° 44' 15" W.
This island is barren, and has deep water all around it. On its shores
are found fur-seal, and many kinds of oceanic birds in the moulting
season. It was so named by Mons. Beauchesne CJouin, a French navi-
gator, in 1699.

To the north-west of the Falkland Islands are several small islands
called the Jasons, which are frequently the first land made in coming
from the northward. There are many passages between them, but so
lined with rocks and dangers as to be unsafe for strangers. The
north-west Jason is in lat. 51° S., long. 61° 35' W.

Oct.] CAPTAIX BARNARD. 55

in sailing for the west part of the Falklands, a vessel should en-
deavour to make lat. 51"^ 36' S., and long. 61^ 50' W. ; then, by steering-
due east, she will make New Island right ahead. To enter the harbour
on the eastern side, it is advisable to pass round two small islands
iymg about a mile and a half to the north of New Island ; then haul
up to the southward, and pass widiin half a mile of its north-east ex-
tremity, after which you will leave a small bay on the starboard
quarter, and then open ship harbour, within whicli you may anchor in
from six to three fathoms of water, muddy ground. Ships, however,
may lie in perfect safety in ten fathoms of water, with Peat Island
bearing W.S.W., distant three-fourths of a mile, clay bottom. Cape
Percival is on the south of New Island, and there is a passage betweea
them.

• In entering Falkland Sound from the south-west, there are three
islands on the starboard side, one of which, called Eagle Island, has
been the scene of a drama unparalleled in the annals of navigation
for ingratitude, treachery, and perfidy. I allude to the treatment re-
ceived by Captain Charles H. Barnard, of New- York, from the otncers
and crew of an English ship, whom he had previously rescued from
all the horrors of shipwreck on a desolate island. In return for his
kind offices, they treacherously seized his vessel and made their
€scape, leaving him and a part of his crew to endin-e all the privations
and sufierings from whicli he had nohly presevved tJte?n ! Captain'
Barnard's narrative of this horrible transaction is before the public, and
ought to be in the hands of every reader. For nearly two years he
was compelled to drag out a miserable existence on an uninhabited
island, in as high a south latitude as Kamschatka is in the north.
,. This unnatural act of perfidy was perpetrated in the year 1813,
some time in the month of April, while Captain Barnard was engaged
in a sealing voyage at the Falkland Islands, in a brig from New-York,
called the Nanina. On the 9th of February previous, the British ship
Isabella, on her passage from Port Jackson, New South Wales, to
London, had been wrecked on Eagle Island, a place where navigators
seldom touch. From that time imtil they were relieved by the noble
exertions of Captain Barnard, the officers, passengers, and crew of
the Isabella remained on this uninhabited and inhospitable island, with
no prospect before them but an uncertain period of precarious subsist-
ence, to terminate in a fearful death from cold or famine, or both
combined. There were several females among them to share the
same fate.

t Captain B. had laid his brig up in Barnard's Harbour, and was in
search of seal at Fox Bay, opposite Eagle Island, in a small shallop
built for that purpose, when his attention was attracted by a rising
smoke on the other side the strait. Suspecting the real cause of this
unusual appearance, and prompted by his characteristic benevolence
of heart, he immediately crossed Falkland Sound in his shallop for the
purpose of relieving the sufferers, whoever they might prove to be.
His errand of mercy was successful ; and though they proved to be
subjects of England, with whom our country was then at war, the

56 PORT LOUIS— SUCCESSFUL HUNTING. [1822.

benevolent purpose of Captain Barnard remained unchanged. But
here I must stop, and refer the reader to the narrative.
; October 26tk. — Having, in due time, fmished overhauling our saiis
and rigging, obtained a sufficient supply of fresh water, and taken on
board twenty-eight barrels of albatross' eggs packed in salt, we pro-
posed leaving our present anchorage. Accordingly, on Saturday, the
26th, at two o'clock, P. M., we got under way, and steered for Port
Louis, in Berkley Sound, lat. 51° 31' S., long. 58° 2' W., for the pur-
pose of obtaining some fresh provisions of a more substantial kind, such
as wild cattle, geese, &;c. We passed through the Veiy Gut and West-
point Harbour, then along Tamer Pass, doubled Cape Dolphin, and
passed St. Salvador Bay to Cape de Barra, which forms the uorthern
side of Berkley Sound.

• October 29th. — We arrived at Port Louis Harbour, or bay, on Tues-
day, the 29th, and at two o'clock, P. M., came to anchor in three fathoms
of water, near the ruins of St. Louis. It was here the French planted
their little colony in 1764, as already mentioned. They called this
sound the Bay of Acheron, but whether with any reference to the son
of Ceres, I have never been informed. It may be mentioned, however,
as somewhat coincident, that there is a little strait at the north side of
the English Maloon, which we passed through, called Hell's Backdoor.
This French colony, I believe, never amounted to more than one hun-
dred and fifty souls, and the remains of about thirty of their houses are
still standing.

At three o'clock, P. M., I sent the crew ashore in search of wild cattle,
poultry, &c. At nine, they returned with two fine bullocks, and two
hundred and eighty-seven geese. On the following day, at three, A.
M., the boats were again manned and despatched on the same errand.
They returned at ten, P. M., with three fat bullocks, and three hundred
and seventeen geese.

October 3lst. — The next day, 'J'hursday, being stormy, it was
not thought advisable to send the crew on shore, but to keep them
employed in dressing the game they had already taken. On Fri-
day morning, however, the storm havmg subsided, they started on an-
other excursion, at three o'clock, but did not return until tlie following
day, at five, P. M., when they brought with them three more bullocks,
and two hundred and thirty-seven geese.

' November 2d. — Being now supplied with provisions and every thing-
necessary for a voyage of discovery, except fuel, of which we were
somewhat deficient, preparations were made for a cruise in search of
ihe Aurora Islands. Accordingly, on Saturday, the 2d of November,
at six, P. M., we got under way, and left Port Louis Bay, shaping our
tourse towards the south and east, with the wind from the south-west
and fair weather. The Henry was to^ail the same evening, in search
of new lands to the west.

I We continued on our course, between the south and east, with fresh
Tvinds from AV.S.W. to AV.N.W., attended with snow and hail-squalls, and
a long regular sea-swell running from S.W. by W. On the 6th we
crossed the spot which the Aurora Islands were supposed to occupy,
"without meeting any indications of land. After running to the east, in

Kov.] THE AURORA ISLANT)S. 57

the parallel of 52° 45' S., as lar as 43° 50' W., we stood to the north,
to latitude 52° 30', when we took the wind from south-east, and made
a v/est course, keeping in the last parallel, by double altitudes, every
opportunity, both morning and evenmg, and meridian altitudes of the
moon and diflerent planets. We continued making a west course until
we were in long. 50° 22' W., wlien we steered to the south until we
were in latitude 53° 10', and ran dovwi in that parallel to the long, of
40° 0' W., keeping one man at the masthead day and night. All our
labours, however, were unsuccessful. These tantalizing Auroras still
eluded our search, and were nowhere to be seen. AVe therefore re-
luctantly made up our minds that no such land existed in the location
assigned to it.

It being more than probable that some of my readers have never
heard of these celebrated islands, as it is quite problematical whether
any one has ever seen them, this may be a proper place to give some
account of the circumstances which have led so many navigators to
waste days and weeks in search of them. The commander of a ship
called the Aurora js said to have given to these

airy nothings

A local habitation and a nanie.

This was in the year 1762. In the publications of the Spanish " Royal
Hydrogi-aphical Society of Madrid,*' for 1809, it is said that these
islands were seen again in 1790, "by the ship Prmcess, belonging to
tlie Royal Philippine Company, Captain IManuel de Oyarvido; who
skowed us his journal in Lima," say the publisliers, " and gave us
8ome information with regard to their situation. In 1794 the corvette
Atrevida went purposely to situate them ; having practised in their
immediate vicinity, from the twenty-lirst to the twenty-seventli of
January, all the necessary observations, and measured by chronome-
ters the difference of longitude between these islands and the port of
Soledad, in the Malninas (or Falkland Isles). The islands are three ;
they are very nearly in the same raeri(han ; the centre one is rather
low, and the other two may be seen at nme leagues' distance."

According to the observations and calculations said to have been
made on board this corvette Atrevida, the most southern of these islands
is in latitude 53° 15' 22" iS., louo. 47° 57' 15" W. ; the most northern
in latitude 52° 37' 24" S., long^ 47° 43' 15" W. ; and the centre one
in latitude 53° 2' 40" S., long. 47° bo' 15" W. These islands Avere
also seen in 1769, by the ship Sau Miguel ; in 1774, by the ship Au-
rora; in 1779, by the Pearl ; and in 1790, by the Dolores. All agree
that their mean latitude is about 53° S.

in consequence of the credibihty of such documents, published by
authority of the Spanish government, my worthy friend Captain James
Weddel, of the English navy, made a strict search for these islands in
1820, sailing for that purpose from St. John's, in Staten Land, on the
twenty-seventh of January. In concluding the accomit of his cruise,
lie says, " Having thus diligently searched through the supposed
situation of the Auroras, I concluded that the discoverers must liave
been misled by appearances ; I therelbre considered any further cruise

58 SOUTH GEORGIA—BOITVETTE'S ISLAND. [1822.

*
to be an improvident waste of time." Captain Johnson and myself
having each made a similar search with equal fidelity and with no
better success, were botli compelled to adopt the same opinion. The
reputed discoverers must have mistaken three floating icebergs with earth
nttached to their sides?, and covered with snow on their tops, for so
many islands.

November ISth. — Having thus wasted more than fifteen days in at-
tempting to discover this /^rra incognita, and being now fully convinced
that any further search would be equally fruitless, we abandoned the
pursuit ; and on Monday, the eighteenth of November, steered for the
island of South Georgia, where we safely arrived on Wednesday, the
20th, and came to anchor in AVasp's Harbour, on the north side of the
island, at one o'clock,?. M. At two, P. M., I sent the boats in search
of seal ; but after an absence of three days they returned unsuccess-
ful, on Sunday, the twenty-fourth, at ten, A. M., having circumnavigated
the whole island without discovering a single seal. «

South Georgia is an island in the Southern Ocean, bearing E. by
S. from the Falklands, distant about 260 leagues. Nearly half-way
between the two, in a direct hne, is the supposed situation of the Au-
roras. The island of South Georgia was first discovered by La Roche,
in 1675 ; but not explored until one hundred years afterward, when it
Avas attentively examined by the celebrated Captain Cook, who
named it in honour of the King of England. It is of an oblong
shape, extending S.E. by E., and N.W. by W. ; thirty-one leagues in
length, while its greatest breadth is nearly ten leagues; its whole
circumference being about seventy leagues. Wasp's Harbour, where
we now lay at anchor, is in lat.'54° 58' S., long. 38° 25' W. The
sides of this island are deeply indented by bays, some of them so deep
on opposite sides as almost to meet in the centre. The mountains are
lofty, and the tops perpetually covered with snow ; but in the valleys
there grows a strong-bladed grass in great plenty.

Noveinher 2ith. — The sole object of our visit to this cheerless port
bemg frustrated by the absence of seal, we weighed anchor on Sunday,
the 24th, and proceeded to sea, steering an eastern course for Bouvette's
Island, so called from being first seen by that navigator in October,
1808. It lies nearly due east from South Georgia, being in lat. 54**
15' S., long. 6° 11' E. ; about four hundred leagues S.S.W. from the
Cape of Good Hope, and nearly on the meridian of Toulon, in France.
We continued our course, with variable winds and occasional heavy
weather, attended with much snow and hail, until Friday, sixth of De-
cember, when we saw the island for which we were bound, bearing
E.S.E., distant one league. This was at two, P. M., and at three
o'clock the next morning I sent the second mate with a well-manned
boat to search for seal on the shores of the island, with orders, if he
found any, to see if they were tame, and to return immediately with
information.

December 6th. — At seven o'clock, A. M., the boat returned with eighty
fur-seal skins of a superior quality ; and the officer informed me that
the seal were perfectly tame ; so much so, that they would come up and
play among the men who were skinning their companions. At eight

Dec] BOUVETTE'S ISLAND. 59

o'clock, A. M., the boats were manned and sent on shore to finish taking
the jackets of those seal which had been left dead on the beach by the
first party.

Relying on the correctness of my ofTicer's report, I naturally con-
cluded that there were seal in sufficient numbers on this island, not
only to complete the cargo of our present voyage, but also to furnish
cargoes for many others ; the island being at least twenty-five miles
in circumference. The island of Masafuero, in the Pacific Ocean, of
about the same dimensions, has been known to produce upwards of
three millions. Here also, at Bouvette's Island, on the western shore,
was fine anchorage inside of the immense number of ice-islands which
lay in that quarter, from one to three miles off-shore, ail of them
agi'ound in from ten to one hundred fathoms of water. Some of these
ice-islands were a mile in circumference, and lay so close to each
other that it was with difficulty we got the vessel between them to the
anchorage alluded to. We finally succeeded, however, and anchored
on the north-west side of the island, in seventeen fathoms of water,
about half a mile from the shore. In this situation we lay entirely
sheltered, by the ice-islands on one side and Bouvette's on the other,
from whatever point of the compass the wind might blow. '

At nine, P. M., the boats returned with one hundred and twelve clap-
match and wig-skins ; and on the morning of the eighth, at three, A. Af.,
I agam sent the boats on shore to examine the island, and discover
some new seal-rookeries. But to our extreme disappointment and
mortification, after sailing completely round the island, not another
spot could be found on which a seal could land ; the shores being
either perpendicular or covered by projecting cliffs. t

\ This island is evidently of volcanic origin ; even the rocks havmg
been melted by former eniptions into a complete mass of lava, pre-
senting the appearance of blue and green glass. There are some
small spots of vegetation on the hill-sides ; but the mountain, which
rises about three thousand feet above the level of the sea, is covered with
pumice-stone — that spongy, light, crumbling substance, which is gene-
rally cast out from the volcanic entrails of burning mountains. Who
can declare how many ages have elapsed since the fires were ex-
tinguished which once raged in the bosom of this mountain ! — He
alone who laid the foundations of the earth. The shores of this island
abound with fish, and innumerable oceanic birds frequent the rocks
and icebergs in their breeding season. I have no doubt that there is some
other land in the vicinity of this ; and I think the most likely place to
seek for it would be to the south. I

\ December Sth. — At seven o'clock, P. M., on Sunday, the eighth, wc
' got under way, and left this inhospitable island ; steering to the south
and east, with a fine breeze from the south-west, and fair weather,
which continued until Thursday, the twelfth, when the wind com-
menced blowing a strong breeze from the north-east, attended with a
tliick snow-storm.

Dece?nber 13///. — On Friday, the 13th, being in latitude 60° 11' S.,
long. 10° 23' E., the wind moderated, and the weather became clear;
at wliich time we found ourselves in the midst of a vast field of drift-

CO SURROUNDED BY ICE-ISLANDS. [1822.

ing ice, from which arose, in ahnost every direction, elevated islands,
or rather floating mountains, of the same glittering material. Our
situation now was extremely perilous, while tlie prospect around us
was at once appalling, sublime, and betiutiful. All that we have ever
read of fairy palaces, and castles with towers of crystal, surmounted
by turrets and minarets of the whitest silver, may furnish some idea
of the scene of treacherous brilliancy which now surrounded us. The
morning sun shone^upon them obliquely, and then- irregular sides re-
flected its rays in a variety of gay colours ; but we were not so much
"^ dazzled by their beauty as alarmed at their proximity, as large masses
of ice and snow were frequently falling from tlieir summits with a tre-
jnendous crash on the field-ice below, of magnitude and weight suffi-
cient to sink a ship of the largest size, should such a one unfortunately
be found in the line of its descent. Happily for us, it was nearly
calm.

December I4th. — The morning sun of Saturday rose upon tlie same
.^cene of danger and sublimity which surroimded us the day before ;
aiid which his first -beam lighted up into its former beauty and splen-
dour. This soon received an additional charm from the presence of a
vast number of sea birds ; among which we recognised the albatross,
Nelly, sea-hen, Port Egmont hen, white pigeon, blue petrel, ice-birds,
and penguins. Perceiving the water to be much discoloured in the
openings between the ice, we tried for soundmgs ; but found no bottom
with one hundred and twenty fathoms of line. A great number of
right whales, fin-backs, and porpoises shoAved themselves in the clear
water beyond the margin of the crystal field in which we were detained,
and it is needless to add that we envied them their situation and liberty.
The weather was still mild and pleasant ; but we knew not at what
moment it might change its aspect. It has been justly observed that
" a combination of thick weather, a strong gale of wind, and a tem-
pestuous sea, crowded with detached pieces of ice, each of which is
enveloped in a thick spray raised by the dashmg of the weaves, presents
one of the most terrific navigations that can be conceived." Had a
gale of wind arisen in our situation, our navigation would have been
still more terrific, owing to the ice-islands around us.
ifc December lotJi. — On the following morning, wliich was Sunday, our
prospect of liberation was somewhat brightened, as the vast sheets of
ice which for two days had evinced such a tendency to adhere together
as to keep our vessel wedged in between them, began to separate a
little.* Takino advantage of this favourable cu'cumstance we made
. every exertion to free ourselves from a situation that was far from be-
ing enviable. These exertions were at length crowned witli success ;
so that at four, P. M., we found ourselves once more in clear water,
when we could gaze back upon the scene of danger, and congratulate
oiu'selves on the providential escape. The vessel had suffered but

* ■' A tendency to separation always takes place in the drift during a calm. It frequently happerw
that a ship is completely beset, and unable to move in any direction ; and next day, without appa-
rent cause, the ice is totally dispersed, and an open sea presented on everj- side. A sheet of ice a
few inchesin thickness is sufficient to rendera ship immoveable. If, under these circumstances, it is
too Rtrone to be broken by a boat, recourse is sometimes had lo the laborious operation of sawing il.'
"-■EtUa. Eiic. art. Ice.

Jan.] KERGULEIS'.S LAND. 61

little mjnry, except in her copper, which was much damaged by the
sharp edges of tlie ice, as we crowded her through it.

As the season was not yet sufficiently advanced to permit our pro-
ceeding farther south at present, and it being necessary to repair our
sails and rigging before we commenced oiu* antarctic cruise, I concluded
to steer for Kergulen's Land, otherwise called the island of Desola-
tion — not a veiy enticing cognomen, but quite convenient for our pres-
ent purpose. It is an island of the Southern Indian Ocean, lying in
latitude 48^ 41' S., long. 69^ 4' E. ^

As this narrative may fall mto the hands of some who are not practi-
cal navigators, nor even proficients in the science of geography, I think
it expedient to be a little more explicit than any of my predecessors have
been, in pointing out the situation of some of the most prominent and
frequented of the South Sea islands. For this purpose I will take the
southern extremity of South America as a starting point ; for every one
who has ever looked at a map of the world knows that this comment
extends farther to the south than any part of Asia or Africa. Let us
talvc our departure, then, from Cape Virgin, which forms the northern
point of Magellan's Strait, in latitude 52^ 20' S., about two hundred
miles north of Cape Horn, and sail m an easterly direction until we
count one hmidred and forty degrees of longitude. In doing this, we
need not deviate many points from the course proposed, in order to
pass near the following islands, viz. the Falklands, which we will
leave on our left, in latitude 52° 23' S., long. 58° 59' W. South
Georgia we will leave on our right, m lat. 54° 58' S., long. 38° 25' W.
We shall also leave Sandwich Land far to the right, in lat. 58° 30' S.,.
long. 27° 30' W. We shall then cross the meridian of Greenwich, and
pass Bouvette's Island, lying in lat. 54° 15' S., long. 6° 1 1' E. Marion's
Island, with its neighbour Prince Edward's, will be left on our lai-board
quarter, in lat. 46° 53' S., long. 37° 46' E. ; as will also Possession-
Island, and a cluster near it called Crozet's Islands, in latitude 42° 59'
S., long. 48° 0' E. A few hours' sail will then bring us to Kergu-
len's Land, or Desolation Island, in the Southern Indian Ocean, hear-
ing south-east from the Cape of Good Hope, distant about eight hun-
dred leagues.

December 25th. — Our passage to this island was retarded by con-
trary winds, which often increased to moderate gales, attended with
occasional hail-squalls and heavy rains. The effects of such weather
could easily be traced in the wear and tear of our sails and rigging.
On Wednesday the 25th, wliich was Christmas-day, we were ia lat.
50° 30' S., long. 50° 41' E.

December 3lst. — We arrived at Kergulen's Land, or Desolation
Island, on Tuesday, the 31st of December; and at 9 P. M. came to
anchor in four fathoms of water, in Christmas Harbour, where we pro-
posed to pass the remauider of the Christmas holydays, wliich, in the
southern hemisphere, occur at midsummer.

January Xsty 1823. — At 4 A. M. I took the boats, with the second
officer, and went m search of seal, leaving the first officer and three
men to take care of the vessel and repair her sails and rigging, which
were very much out of order from the almost continual gales, of wind

62 DESOLATION ISLAND—CHRISTMAS HARBOUR.- jrl823,

we had experienced since our departure from the Falkland Islands on
the 2d oi' November.

In our search for seal we were occupied more than a week, rowing
and sailing round tlie island, and examining every beach ; but our
laboiu's were not crowned with any great success. AVe did not see in
our whole survey more than three thousand fur-seal, of which we took
two hundred. On the west side, however, we saw about four thou-
sand sea-elephants, and about fifteen hundred on tlie east side. On the
former side we found many excellent harbours. AVe returned to the
vessel on Friday, the 10th.

CHAPTER IV.

Desolation IslantI, or Korgulen's Land — Christmas Harbour — Natural Produc-
tions — Oceanic Animals — Departure from the Island, towards the South Pole —
Cross the Antarctic Circle — Procure fresh Water from the Ice — Steer for Sand-
■ wich-land — Candlemas Isles — Southern Thule — Burning Volcanoes — Return to
the Antarctic Seas — Mild Temperature of the Air and Water — No Field-ice in
Lat. 70° 14' — Ice-islands and Icebergs ; their Formation — Practicabihty of
reaching the South Pole — New South Greenland — Statcn Land.
I

Kergulen's Land, otherwise called Desolation Island, was first
discovered in 1772, byM. de Kergulen, a French navigator, who mis-
took it for a southern continent, and so reported to his government ;
who sent him back in the following year to give his new discovery a
critical examination, survey its coasts, &;c. He now discovered his
mistake, and at the same time some small islands in the vicinity of the
large one. Three years afterward Captain Cook fell in with the same
islands, but considered them of little importance. It was he wha
named the principal one the " Island of Desolation." My own ob-
servations, however, have led me to conclude, that notwithstanding its
natural defects and desolate character, it is still not without its value.
As a place of repose for the weather-beaten mariner whose duty calls
him into these remote seas, I know its worth by experience. Its safe
and commodious harbom-s, with abundance of fresh water, are alone
siiflicient to redeem its reputation. i'

i Christmas Harbour is the first that is met with on the east or north-
east side of the island after passing Cape Francois, which form« the
northern side of this haven, at the head of which is Wasp's Harbour.
The latter is a small basin, completely land-locked within itself, into
which you can carry four fathoms of water. Here you may anchor in
from ten to three fathoms, clay bottom ; and here a ship might lie with
her best bower ahead at all seasons, the year round, in perfect safety.
To the westwai'd, at the head of this basin, is a small fresh water
river of an excellent quality, from which a ship may fill any quantity,
and warp it along-side with one hundred fathoms of line. In this cove,
in the month of December (corresponding to our June), a ship may
be supplied with any quantity of pengu'ms' eggs from rookeries within

Jan.] CHRISTMAS HARBOUR— SEALS. ^^

half a mile of her anchorage. On the islands at the mouth of the
bay are rookeries of the albatross, &c. There are also to be had
here some Port Egmont hens, sea-hens, cape-pigeons, blue petrels,
ducks, teal, and the Nelly, most of which are palatable, if taken when
they are young.

Christmas Harbour may be known from any other harbour in the
island by the projecting point of Cape Francois, which termmates in
a high rock, perforated quite through, so as to form a natural arch, like
that of a gateway or bridge. The outer harbour is only open to east-
erly winds, and is sheltered by a number of islands about six miles
from the anchorage, which protect it from any sea that could injure a
ship. It is high water here on full and change days at a quarter
past 10 o'clock. The entrance of the harbour is in lat. 48*? 40' S.,
iong. 69^ 6' E.

Many of the hills on this island, though of moderate height, were
covered with snow, notwithstanding that the season was now midsum-
3ner, January, corresponding to our July. Yet still, in approaching the
harbour, the sunny declivities of the snow-crowned eminences present
jnany cheering spots of living verdure. This appearance, however,
is a promise to the eye soon to be broken to the hope ; for it is not
the grassy robe which nature wears in almost every other section of her
dominions. The illusion is caused by a small plant resembling saxifrage,
■which grows upon the hills in large swelling tufts, on a kind of rotten
turf.. Near the base of the hills, in a boggy kind of soil, is another
plant plentifully scattered about, which grows to the height of nearly
two feet. It presents the appearance of a small cabbage that is shoot-
ing into seed, and has the watery acrid taste imputed to it by Mr. An-
derson.* Here also still grows the androgynous plant mentioned by
the same ingenious naturahst nearly sixty years ago, whose remarks
on such subjects have already, and will frequently in the course of
this narrative, supply my own deficiency in the science of natural his-
tory. The coarse grass near the harbour, the moss, the lichen, &;c.,
are all correctly described ; and he tiady observes that '• there is not
the appearance of a tree or shrub on the whole island.*'

Of animals, besides those before mentioned, there are a few seal of
the fur and hair kinds, and numbers of sea-elephants. These am-
phibious animals come on shore hi the month of November, to bring
forth~and nurse tlieir young. On these occasions the females are po-
litely attended by their respective male partners, who meet them near
the shore or on rl, where they remain until May. They often form
their rookeries one or two hundred yards from the water. They bring
forth their vouno; and nurse them in the same manner ae the canine
species do ; and for two weeks after their birth the young ones are as
helpless as canine pups of the same age. The art of swimming, it
appears, is not theirs by instinct, as they know nothing about it until
taught by their parents. AVlien they arc three or four weeks old, the
mothers drag them to the water by the neck, and give them their first
lesson in the science of aquatic locomotion.

^» Captain Cock's surg'^cn.

Q4 OCEANIC BIRDS— FIELDS OF ICE. [18ii3.

They copulate on shore, and the fwnale goes about ten months with
young. Aecorchng to the best calculation that 1 can make, they seldom
produce more than one pup at a birth, and never more than three ; and
the young ones never come on shore during the first year of then* lives.
As to the age this animal will live,- it is diflicult to ascertain with any
degree of certainty ; but from my own observations. I should fix the
period of their greatest longevity at thirty years.

The principal food of the fur-seal is a fish called the squid, the
same that the sperm whale feeds upon. The hair-seal and the sca^
elephant feed upon various kinds of scale-fish, and the hair-lion often
feeds upon penguins.

Of the feathered race on this island penguins are the most numerous,
and of these there are four diflerent kmds. The largest is the royal
or king-penguin, so called from its size, beauty of plumage, and ii-re-
pressible pride : in these respects it much resembles the peacock.
The head is of a glossy shining black, the upper part of the body of a
leaden gray, the under part of the purest white, and the feet in coloiu:
correspond to the head. Two broad stripes of a fine bright glossy
yellow descend from the head to the breast ; the bill is long, and of a
rose colour. As they march along with a great deal of self-complacency,
they will frequently look down their glossy front and sides to contem-
plate the perfection of their exterior brilliancy, to adjust a ruffled feather,
or remove any speck which may sully their spotless attire.

The second class of penguins is only about half the size of the
one just described. The upper part of the body is of a blackish gray,
with a white spot on the top of the head ; the bill and feet are of a
yellow tinge, the breast white. The third sort, or bicrested penguin,
is black upon the upper part of the back and throat ; most of the body,
neck, and head is white, excepting the top of the latter, which is orna-
mented with a fine yellow arch, which the bird can erect at pleasure as
a double crest. <

The shags here are of two kinds, one of which resembles the cor-
morant or water-crane, the other has a blackish back and a white belly.
Here are also sea-swallows, terns, common sea-gulls, Mother Carey*s
chickens, and Mother Carey's geese, or the great petrel : this last-
named bird is as large as an albatross, and is carnivorous, feeding on
the carcasses of dead seals and birds. It is sometimes called the os-
prey-petrel, or breakboncs. It often sails close to the surface of the
water, with its wings expanded, yet without appearing to move them.
They are very tame, and not unpalatable food. I have also frequently
shot and eaten the white bird for wliich i\Ir. Anderson had no name,
and found its flesh a very agreeable substitute for salt provisions. It
is somewhat larger than a pigeon, with white feet and a black bill. i
January Wth. — We returned from our sealing excursion round the
Island of Desolatio)! on Friday, the 10th ; and on the following day at 6
P. M. again got under way, and took our departure from Christmas
Harbour, steering towards the south and east, wafted by a fine breeze
from W.S.W. We continued this course, almost constantly attended
by light snow-squalls, for ten days ; when, in lat. 62° 27' S., long. 94*
W E., we fell in with very extensive fields of ice, one of winch would

Feb.] THE ANTARCTIC SEAS. ^5

have measured at least one hundred and fifty miles east and west. In
the vicinity of this crystal plain were an immense number of ice-
islands, some of which were of an extraordhiary magnitude.

January 22d. — In order to avoid a contact with the enormous masses
of ice on our starboard bow, we were obliged to alter our course, and
steer more to the north. And we continued to sail in this direction
until we were in lat. 58^ 42' S., between which and the parallel of
60° we continued to sail eastward until our longitude was one hun-
dred and seventeen degrees east of the meridian of Greenwich. We
then again changed our course, and steered to the south until the 1st
day of February.

February \st. — From the 11th day of January, when we left the
Island of Desolation, to the 31st, we had but one day of fair weather;
but we now took the Mind fresh from the north-east, with an atmosphere
clear and pleasant. By an observation at noon we were in lat. 64°
52' S., long. 118° 27' E. The wind soon freshened to an eleven-
knot breeze, and we embraced this opportunity of making to the west ;
being, however, convinced that the farther we went south beyond lat.
64° the less ice was to be apprehended, we steered a little to the south-
ward until we crossed the antarctic circle^ and were in lat. 69° 11' S.,
long. 48° 15' E. In this latitude there was no field-ice^ and very few
ice-islands in sight. AVe likewise discovered that the winds in this lati-
tude blow three-fourths of the time from the south-east, or the north-
east, very light, and attended with more or less snow, every day ; and
that the westerly winds were accompanied with severe hail-squalls.

February 23ci — We continued steering to the westward with every
necessary caution until 4 P. M., when bemg in lat. 69° 42' S., we
crossed the meridian of Greenwich, in a fine clear day, and with the
wind from S.E. to S.S.W., from which quarter it had blown for the
last four days. We nov/ steered for the north and west for Sandwich
Land, and on the following day saw many birds of diflerent kinds, such
as the albatross, the Nelly, sea-hens, and penguins; besides a variety
of others that are common among the ice-islands.

February 24th. — ?^Ionday, the 24th of February being calm, we
lowered one of our boats, and supplied the vessel v,-ith fresh water,
from the floating ice around her. We likevrise tried the current, and
found it setting due north, at the rate of about the eighth of a mile in
an hour, which is equal to three miles in twenty-four hours. We had
tried the current several times between the meridian of Greenwich and
one hundred and eighteen degrees east ; but always found it setting in
the same direction, and with the same velocity. Our sounding gear
lor trying the current consisted of a very large iron pot, of fifteen gal-
ions' capacity, and a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms in length.
Lat,,68° 12' S., long. 4° 17' W.

February 25th. — We continued our course for Sandwich Land, hoping
to find amonjr those barren islands some drift-wood, as well as seals.
Fuel we were much in want of, not wishijig again to cross the antarc-
tic circle without a fresh supply. In this passage we saw in the water
many seals, wigs, clap-matches, and yearlings — about 300 in all. We
also saw many sea-birds, among which were some white pigeons, not

66 SANDWICH LAND. [1823.

web-footed, Port Egmont hens, albatrosses, and Nellies, and a num-
ber of very curious birds, about the size of a pigeon, with a green
head. The back of this bird was a gray black, and the breast was
variegated with all the colours of the rainbow. The tail, which M'as
long and bushy, was of a hue approaching to yellow, and resembling
the bird of paradise.

February 28t/i. — On Friday, the twenty-eighth, the cheering cry of
" Land, ho !" resounded from aloft. This proved to be the Candlemas
Isles, the most northerly islands of Sandwich Land; lat. 57^ 10' S.,
long. 26^ 59' W. These two islands are of no great extent, but one of
them is of considerable height, both being burning volcanoes ; and the
most western having burnt down nearly to a level whh the sea. We
continued examining these islands towards the south, until we arrived at
the Southern Thule ; where, on the north-east side of the westernmost
island, we found a good harbour. In this group we saw nine burning
volcanoes — fire in abundance, but no fuel for the Wasp. Three of
these islands had vomited out so much of their entrails, that their sur-
faces were nearly even with the water.

We looked on these islands in vain for wood, of which we were
very much in want ; as we had not made a fire on board the Wasp but
once a week, for the last fourteen days ; having with that fire boiled
meat sufhcient to serve the officers and crew for seven days ; and this
economical regulation we were obliged to adhere to until we arrived
at Staten Land, on the twenty-fourth of March. All the islands vrhich
constitute what is called Sandwich Land are entirely barren. Those
parts which have not been consumed by internal fires are very high,
and covered with perpetual snow ; the rest is broken land. The
westernmost of the Southern Thule is in lat. 59^ 35' 10" S., long. 27^^
42' 30" W.

March Gth. — After having examined the islands of Sandwich Land,
without discovering a single fur-seal, and only about four hundred sea-
elephants, together with about fifty sea-dogs, we again directed our
attention towards the antarctic seas. At five P. M. we steered to the
south and west, with the wind from W.N.W., attended with frequent
squalls of snow and hail.

March 10 th. — We continued standing to the south and west, with
our starboard tacks on board, until INIonday, the tenth of March ; when,
at four A. M., we found ourselves once more in a very dangerous situ-
ation, being hemmed in on every side by field-ice. After exerting our-
selves, how^ever, for about twenty-fom' hours, in a thick snow-storm,
we made our escape into an open sea, entirely free of ice. This
was in lat. 64° 21' S., long. 38° 51' W. We theiitook the wind from
the west, and stood to the south, under double-reefed sails, until Friday
the fourteenth, when our latitude was 70° 14' S. long. 40° 3' W.
* March 14th. — The sea was now entirely free of field-ice, and there
were not more than a dozen ice-islands in sight. At the same time,
the temperature both of the air and the water was at least thirteen de-
grees higher (more mild) than we had ever found it between the par-
allels of sixty and sixty-two south. We were now in lat. 70° 14' S.,
and the temperature of the air was forty-seven, and that of the water

March.] PRACTICABILITY OF REACHING THE SOUTH POLE. 67

forty-four. In this situation I found the variation to be 14*^ 27' easterly,
per azimuth.

I have several times passed within the antarctic circle, on diflerent
meridians, and have uniformly found the temperature both of the air and
the water to become more and more mild the farther I advanced beyond
the sixty-fifth degree of south latitude, and that the variation decreases
in the same proportion. While north of this latitude, say between
sixty and sixty-five south, we frequently had great difficulty in finding
a passage for the vessel, between the immense and almost innumerable
ice-islands, some of which were from one to two miles in circumference,
and more than five hundred feet above the surface of the water ! j
When it is considered that they have always about three-fifths of their
bulk under water, some idea may be formed of their enormous mag-
nitude. We have several times come so near them, when the weather
was so thick and hazy that we could not see twice the length of the
vessel, that nothing prevented our striking but a timely application of
the sweeps to bear us off. It vvas always our endeavour to keep at a
respectful distance ; for they are sometimes so nicely balanced, that,
should a very large piece become detached from below^ the whole mass
above water, being thus rendered top-heavy, would instantly capsize,
and plunge beneath the surface ; when wo to the vessel that lies in
its way. Even at the distance of one hundred yards, ships have been
lost by the vast waves and whirls occasioued by these rolling moun-
tains.

. But there is no evil, perhaps, which is not accompanied with some
redeeming quality. The shelter which is sometimes afforded by these
dangerous friends has preserved vessels from injury, if not ruin, during
a gale of wind ; especially as the sea is never rough where the ice-
islands are sufficiently numerous to break the force of the waves.

. I regret extremely that circumstances would not permit me to pro-
ceed farther south, when I was in lat. 70^ 14' S., on Friday, the 14th
day of March, 1823 ; as I should then have been able, without the
least doubt, to penetrate as far as the eighty-fifth degree of south
latitude. But situated as I then was, without fuel, and with not suffi-
cient water to last twenty days, — destitute of the various nautical and
mathematical instruments requisite for such an enterprise, and without
the aid of such scientific gentlemen as discovery ships should always
be supplied Avith ; taking all these things into consideration, I felt my-
self compelled to abandon, for the present, the glorious attempt io
make a bold advance directly to the south pole. The way was open
before me, clear and unobstructed ; the temperature of the air and
water mild ; the weather pleasant ; the wind fair. Under such tempting
auspices, it was "with painful reluctance that I relinquished the idea,
and deferred the attempt for a subsequent voyage. The anguish of
ray regret, however, was much alleviated by the hope that on my return
to the United States, an appeal to the government of my country for
countenance and assistance in this (if successful) magnificent en-
terprise would not be made in vain. To the only free nation on earth
should belong the glory of exploring a spot of the globe which is the
ne plus ultra of latitude, where all the degrees of longitude are merged

08 , FORMATION OF ICEBERGS. [1823.

into a single point, and wlierc the sun appears to revolve in a horizontal
circle. But this splendid hope has since been lost in the gloom of dis-
appointment ! The vassals of some petty despot may one day place
this precious jewel of discovery in the diadem of their royal master.
AVould to heaven it might be set among the stars of our national
banner !

Had the English navigator Captain Wcddell* been properly pre-
pared with all the necessary mathematical and nautical apparatus for
approaching the south pole, there is no doubt that this important dis-
covery would have been accomplished by him in the year 1822, when
he proceeded one hundred and eighty-five miles farther south than any
other navigator had ever done before him ; he having reached the lat-
itude of 74° 15' S. ; while Captain Cook's most southern latitude was
only 71° 10' S., and my own 70° 14' S. Nothing but a deficiency of
articles which are indispensably necessary for the purpose prevented
Captain Weddell's accomplishing this much-desired object; when the
people of our enlightened age would have had laid open to them the
mysteries of the south pole — nty^steries which have been concealed from
man since the Almighty first " laid the foundations of the earth."

I have no doubt that the British government, ever foremost to en-
courage genius and reward merit, w^ll yet give my much esteemed
and worthy friend Captain Weddell another opportunity of distin-
'guishing himself with the-command of an expedition towards the south
Ipole.

To return from tliis digression. — The ice which sometimes obstructs
the navigation of the antarctic seas appears to be of two kinds ; the
"one being from fresh, and the other from salt water. The hard, solid,
'and perfect icebergs are the gradual productions of years, — perhaps
'of centuries. In these inhospitable regions, wherever the snow finds
,a resting-place in winter, there it must accumulate until the ensuing
■summer, when it will begin to dissolve beneath the influence of the sun's
direct rays, which are shed upon every side of it in the course of
■twenty-four hours. Streams and rivulets are the necessary conse-
Iquence, which collect along the indented shores, and in the deep bays.
j-There this snow-water soon freezes, and every successive year supplies
.an additional investing crust, until, after the lapse of perhaps several cen-
jturies, the icy mass rises at last to the size of a mountain, and becomes
jan iceberg. The melting of the snow which is afterward deposited
,on such immense blocks, likewise contributes to their growth ; and, by
iiilling up the crevices, it renders the whole berg compact and uniform.

At the same time, the principle of destruction has already com-
menced its operation. The constant agitation of the sea gradually
ivears and undermines the base of the icy eminence ; till at length, by
the action of its own accumulated weight, having grown to near one
thousand feet in height, it is torn from its frozen chains, and precipitated
into the ocean. When thus launched afloat, it is like an island in the

• "■ Captain James Weddell, of the British n3^'^•, whom I have before mentioned in the previous
chapter, as seeking for the Aurora Islands, in 1S22 : a most excellent officer, and a highly worthy
jnan : justly extolled as an active, correct, and enterprising navigator. Being familiar with danger
in its most appalling form, every emergency finds him cool, steady, and undaunted. He is, in short,
at once an honour to his country and to human nature. I sjieak with conlidence, for I know him.

March.] NEW SOUTH GREENLAND. 69

sea ; till driven to the northward by the wind and currents, a milder
temperature of air and M^ater gradually and insensibly melts it into
its primitive element, either in the Paciiic, South Atlantic, or Southern
Indian Ocean.

March 15th. — After relinquishing for this season the idea of an
attempt to reach the south pole, we tacked about, and stood to the north
and west. On Saturday, March 15lh, at 2 P. M., land was seen from
the masthead, bearing west, distant three leagues. At this time the
wind had hauled to the south-west, and at half-past 4 P. M. we w^ere
close in with the eastern coast of the body of land to which Captaiii
Johnson had given the name of New South Greenland. At six P. M.
the wind hauled off the land, when we tacked and stood to the south,
along the coast, which runs about south-by-east ; our boats being out,
and searchbig the shore for seals until 9 P. M., when they returned to
the schooner.

March IQth. — On the following morning, Sunday, the 16th, the boats
continued their search, the vessel following or keeping abreast of them,
about two miles from the land, until the next day, at 4 P. M., when
we were in lat. 67^ 52' S. long. 48^ 11' W. ; at which time we took a
fresh breeze from the south, attended with light snow-squalls. Varia-
tion per azimuth at 9 A. M. 16^ 4' easterly. The coast here tended
about S.E. by S., and we thought we could discern some of the moun-
tains of snow, about seventy-five miles to the southward.

Under the circumstances before mentioned, being without wood, on
a short allowance of water, and the season far advanced, it was judged
impiiident to proceed farther south ; although I felt very anxious (being
now in an open sea) to ascertain the extent of this land towards the
south. We therefore tacked about, and stood to the north.

March 19//<. — On Wednesday, the 19th, we were close in with tlie
north cape of New South Greenland ; lat. 62^ 41' S., long. 47^ 21' W.
by dead reckoning, not having had an observation for three days ; coast
tending to the south, and S. by V/. This land abounds with oceanic
birds of every description ; we also sav/ about three thousand sea-ele-
phants, and one hundred and fifty sea-dogs and leopards.

In this place, I think it proper to remark, that every spot I have vis-
ited beyond the sixtieth degree in these high south latitudes, is entirely
destitute of soil or vegetation ; but rising in vast mountains, or columns
of impenetrable rocks, ice, and snow. I would also further state, what
is my firm conviction, that ice-islands are never formed except in bays
and other recesses of the land ; and that even field-ice is never pro-
duced in deep water, or on a rough sea. The necessary inference,
therefore, is this : — If there be na more land to the south than that
with which we are already acquainted, the antarctic seas must be
much less obstructed by ice than is generally supposed ; and that a
clear sea is opcji for voyages of discovery., even to the south pole.

The existence of ice-fields, at a vast distance in the antarctic regions,
whether accompanied by ice-islands or not, may frequently be ascer-
tained by their reflection on the verge of the horizon, in a stratum of
local whiteness. This appearance is occasioned by the rays of light
striking the surface of the ice obliquely ; and such as the angle of in-

70 STATEN LAND. [1825.

cidence happens to be, such is the degree of aUitude in the atmosphere
■where tlie appearance is produced. This shining streak of hght is
always brightest in clear weather, and indicates to the experienced
mariner, while at fifteen or twenty miles' distance, not only the extent
and figure of the field, but even the quality of the ice.

From the second day after we left the " Island of Desolation," up
to this date, March 19th, we have not passed a day without seeing fields
of broken ice, or ice-islands, or both combined ; and during all that
period of sixty-six days, we have had, every day, more or less snow
or hail. This was very unpleasant, as Ave could not keep ine on board,
on account of our stock of wood being nearly exhausted ; although
"we found far less ice, and much finer weather, south of latitude sixty-
seven, than we did between sixty-seven and sixty.

On Wednesday, the 19th of March, at 10 o'clock P.M., we bade adieu
to the cheerless shores of New South Greenland, and steered for
Staten Land, with a fresh breeze from the south-east, which lasted until
Monday, the 24th ; when, at 9 A.M., we anchored in the harbour of
St. John's, or East Harbour, in seven fathoms of water, clay bottom.

March 24:th. — Staten Land is an island which forms the south-
eastern extremity of South America, and of which I will give some
account in the next chapter. Knowing that its shores were sometimes
the resort of fur-seal, I had the boats manned within an hour after we
cast anchor, and sent them round the island in search of that animal.
In the mean time, I encountered an old acquaintance, in the brig Her-
silia, of Stonington, Conn., Captain James Sheffield commander, who
had come into these distant regions on a similar errand with our own.

It may easily be conceived that it was very pleasant to meet one's
fellow-townsmen so far from home, and engaged in the same pursuit as
ourselves.

March 2Sth. — On Friday, the 28th, our boats returned from their
coasting enterprise, with one hundred and eighty-two fur-seal skins. At
seven, P. M., we got under way, in company with the Hersilia, and
steered for the Falkland Islands, where we arrived on Sunday morning
at three o'clock, and anchored in Shallop Cove, on the east side of
Kew Island, in our former situation. At four A. M., I despatched the
boats in search of seal ; but, after an absence of seventeen hours, they
returned with only twenty-two fur-skins.

March ^\st, — On the following mommg at four o'clock, A. M., we
again got under w^ay and steered to the south and west, with a fresh
breeze from N.W. by W.

April 3(/.— Thursday found us in lat. 62° 8' S., long. 66° 14' W.
■when we took a fresh breeze from the south-east, and steered to the
westward, until we were in lat. 65° 42' S., long. 110° 16' W.

April 24:th. — During this run we saw few if any indications of land,
and there was very little ice in sight. AVe now bore up for Staten
Land, with a fresh breeze from S.S.AV., attended by a thick snow-
storm ; and continued steering to the north and east, until Thursday,
the 24th, when, at eight P. M., we anchored in Hallett's Harbour, in
five fathoms of water, on the north side of Staten Land. On the fol-
lowing morning, at four A. M., the boats were sent round the island in
search of seal ; and did not return imtil Tuesday, the 29th, at 5 P.M.

April.] STATEX LAND. 7|

CHAPTER V.

Erroneous Ideas corrected — Staten Land — Strait of Le ^Liire — Natural History
of the Fur-seal and Sea-elephant — Exaggerated Accounts of Cape Horn Dan-
gers accounted for, and refuted — Doubling the Cape — Prevailing Winds and
Weather in that Region — Diego Ramirez Islands — Ildefonso's Island — Christ-
mas Sound — Western Entrance to the Strait of Magellan — The Wasp sails
from Staten Land, and arrives at the Eastern Entrance, from the Atlantic —
Enters the Strait, and anchors in the Harbour of Cape Negro.

I HAVE said that Staten Land is an island v/hich forms the south-
eastern extremity of South America. To those who are not conver-
sant with maps, this is not sufficiently explicit ; I will therefore be more
particular in describing its situation.

I find that many persons, who ought to know better, are under the
impression that the continent of South America, as it stretches into the
southern hemisphere, gradually becomes more and more narrow, until
it finally tapers off to a point, and that this point is called Cape Horn.
The whole of this idea is not founded in truth ; for though the Soiith
American continent does gradually become more and more attenuated,
as it extends beyond the tropic of Capricorn, it does not terminate m a
point, nor wdthin one hundred miles of the celebrated Cape Horn.

The extreme southern prolongation of the American continent is
Cape Froward, in the Strait of Magellan, in lat. 54^ 3' S. Sixty-five
miles north of* this, at the river Gallegos, the distance across Patago-
nia, from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast, is about two hundred miles.
South, or rather south-east, of Magellan's Strait, lies a large cluster
of islands, called Terra del Fuego, or land of fire, on accoimt of its
volcanoes. The greatest width of this cluster north and south is
about one hmidred and sixty miles ; and its length, in a straight line
from east to west, is about double that distance. Its eastern extremity
forms one side of Le Maire's Strait, and a srnall island called Staten
Land fonns the other. On the south of Terra del Fuego are other
little islands, such as Hermit's, Jordan's, Bamavell's, Evout's, Saddle
Island, <fcc. The most southern of this cluster is called Horn Island,
and its most southern extremity is called Cape Horn. The whole of
this group, south and south-east of the continent, ought to have been
called the Archipelago of jMaganhales, or Magellan, in honour of the
discoverer.

Staten Land, we have seen, is separated by the Strait of Le Maire
from the island of Terra del Fuego, as the latter is separated from the
continent by the Strait of Magellan. It presents to the eye of the
navigator a surface of craggy hills, wliich rise to a vast height, espe-
cially near the west end of the island. The coast is rocky, and much
indented with bays and inlets. The dismal aspect of this country
(which has been much exaggerated) is painted in very strong colours

72 ' STATEIS' LAND. [1823. J

by almost every navigator "who has visited or passed it. It did not,
however, present the same appalling aspect to the scientific Captain
Cook that it did to the more romantic Commodore Anson. That un-
speakable horror and wildness mentioned by the commodore were not
observed by the scientific gentlemen who accompanied the captain ; on
the contrary, to them the land appeared to be supplied with both wood
and verdure ; "jior was it covered with snow ; and on the north side
they saw the appearancq of bays and harbours."

Even our American commodore, the brave and undaunted Porter, in
his account of his passage to the Pacific Ocean, in the U. S. frigate
Essex, in the month of February, 1813, has added the weight of his
testimony to the dismal side of this question. Speaking of his pas-
sage through the little strait that separates this island from Terra del
Fuego, he says, " The land w^e first made, and attempted to weather,
was Cape San Diego, on the coast of Staten Land, and the appearance
was dreary beyond description. Perhaps, however, the critical situa-
tion of the ship, the foaming of the breakers, the violence of the wind,
and the extreme haziness of the weather, may, all combined, have
served to render the appearance more dreadful. But from the impres-
sion made by its appearance then, and from the description given by
others, I am induced to believe that no part of the world presents a
more horrible aspect than Staten La7id"

Staten Land is certainly more steril than Terra del Fuego, across
the strait ; being, in general, one body of craggy sharp-pointed moun-
tains ; with the sea surging against it on all sides, with considerable
violence. But there are several very good harbours on the north-east
side. Among the best is New-year's Harbour, so called from being
discovered on that day. It is readily known by some islands that lie
about its entrance, a little to the eastward of which is the place of in-
gress. It is about tvvo miles in length, and one in breadth ; penetrating
the land in a direction nearly S.W. by S., then gradually turning to
W. by S. and W.

Here you may have any depth of water, from thirty fathoms to five,
with a bottom of mud and sand. Its shores abound v/ith wood and
fresh water, and a few seal of the fur and hair kinds are frequently
found on the beach. Scale-fish of various sorts may be caught with
hook and line, and sea-fowls shot in several directions. Fresh green
celery in its season can be had in any quantities, together with some
berries of an agreeable flavour.

The harbour of St. John's, or East Harbour, is also a fine port for
a ship to procure wood and water, having an easy entrance (about four
miles to the westward of Cape St. John's), as you may pass within half
a cable's length of the shore until you come to the head of the har-
bour, where you can anchor in four or five fathoms, mud and clay bot-
toms, entirely land-locked.

This island is about twelve leagues in length, lying E.N.E. and
AV.S.W. In breadth it is unequal, but nowhere wide. Its north-
eastern extremity is called Cape St. John's, lying in latitude 54° 47' S.
long. 63'^ 41' 45" W. ; variation per azimuth 22^ 58' easterly. At
€ach end of this island there are very strong tide-rips, which have the

April.] STRAIT OF LE MAIRE. 73

appearance of shoal water, and are often the cause of alarm to cautious
mariners. But I can assure such that they may dismiss their ill-
grounded apprehensions ; for they may circumnavigate the island at
at any time, at two cables' length from shore, with the greatest safety,
in ships of any size.

The Strait of Le Maire, which separates Staten Land from
Terra del Fuego, is a safe and commodious passage, without the
slightest symptom of those dangers which have been attributed to
it by several former navigators. Vessels of any size have nothing to
fear, two cables' length from shore, on either side. There are neither
winds, currents, nor calms that can endanger a ship in this passage,
which is about fifteen miles wide, and only four miles in length. In my
opinion, it owes all its supposed terrors to its being in a high latitude,
and so far from home I The Am.erican prize frigate Macedonian was
brought into the port of New- York by her gallant captor, in the middle
of winter, through Hurlgate, the Scylla and Charybdis of Long Island
Sound. Compare this with a strait of fifteen miles in breadth without
a rock or a whirlpool.

In entering the Strait of Le Maire, you pass a low green sloping
point of land, that projects out from Terra del Fuego, in an E.N.E.
direction to the water. On the opposite side, Staten Land presents a
high bluff point, with bold water to the edge of the rocks. In passing
between these two distant points, there can be no more difficulty or
danger than there is in entering Long Island Somid from the ocean.

Some mariners have represented it to be difficult to discover Strait
Le Maire. But I know that any navigator who keeps the land of
Terra del Fuego in sight cannot possibly miss or mistake the strait.
The only way, therefore, that such an occurrence could take place,
would be by losing sight of the land, and running too far to the
eastward ; which should never be done, as there is no danger that can
possibly arise from keeping the western shore on board. Easterly
winds are never known to blow fresh in this part of the v/orld ; and
by hugging the western shore, the passage to the Pacific is very
much shortened.

April 29th. — On Tuesday, at 5 P. i\I., our boats returned from their
excursion in search of seal, having been absent four days, with moderate
success.

The seals which resort to the islands of this archipelago, as well as
to other islands south of latitude fifty, are generally clotlied in jackets
of valuable fur. This species has been distinguished by naturalists,
merely for their size and shape ; but there are other peculiarities con-
nected with the history and habits of this animal, of a far m.ore inter-
esting nature, which I have never yet met with in print ; a few of
which I will endeavour to describe.

. In killing a female which happens to be with young, even in an ac
vanced state of pregnancy, if the scull be pressed in by the sealing
club in dealing the fatal blow, an exactly similar indentation will fre-
quently be found on the scull of the fcetus. This fact is a practical
illustration of the wonderful power of sympathy, and worthy the inves-
tigation of naturalists. Although modern philosophers have laboured

74 FUR-SEALS. [1823.^

hard to refute tiie idea of such a sympathy in tlie liiiman race, there'
are hundreds of credible witnesses ready to bear testimony to its ex-
istence in tliis particular species of marine animals.

The striking disparity of size between the male and female is also
worthy of remark. The large male is about seven feet in length,
whereas the female never exceeds four feet. The large males are not
the most numerous ; but, being the most powerful, they are enabled to
keep in their possession all the females. At the time of parturition,
the number of males attending one female is in the proportion of about
one to a dozen ; a proof that these animals are the greatest polyga-
mists in the world, not even excepting the Turks. That they are gre-
garious and social is evident to the most superficial observer who
surveys iheir rookeries, where they herd together in classes, and at
different periods.

Warmed by the cheering influence of an antarctic spring, the males
of the largest size go on shore about the first of November, corres-
ponding to our May, and there wait the arrival of the females, \vhich
happens about the first of December. This of course is an annual as-
signation, and occurs as regularly as the migration of our northern
shad from the ocean to the fresh-water rivers, for purposes perfectly
analogous. As soon as the female seal makes her appearance at the edge
of the beach, one of the most gallant of the males immediately takes
her under his protection. It seldom happens, however, that he is not
obliged to sustain his right by one or more serious combats with his
rivals. AVhile the males are fighting in the most desperate manner,
the object of their bloody feud sits calmly looking on, contemplating
the fray with apparent delight, and no little self-complacency. I have
some reason to believe that the same feeling has been evinced by
females of a higher species ; but on this head I do not presume to
speak positively : the seal battles I have seen, and studied the coun-
tenance of their object ; who voluntarily yields, herself to the con-
queror as soon as the contest is decided, at the same time casting a
look of inefi'able contempt upon his vanquished rival.

The proud victor now conducts his lovely prize from the late scene
of contention up to the rookery prepared for her accommodation ; and
this he does with a courtesy and tenderness of manner from which
some husbands might derive a useful lesson. At almost every step he
politely bows or nods to his new bride, and frequently touches her lips
with his own. When the female has selected her lodgings, and become
settled in the rookery, her partner is unremitting in his cares to afibrd
her protection, and render her situation comfortable ; nor does she
evince the slightest indications of jealousy while he is showing the
same polite attentions to a dozen other wives ! Here, I believe, my
former comparison does not exactly hold good.

By the last of December, all the females have accomplished the
purpose for which they came on shore. In this process, however,
they evidently endure a great deal of pain ; and the males appear to be
much aff'ected by their sufferings, — redoubling their afi'ectionate atten-
tions, and adopting various expedients to relieve their distress.

The sense of smell, as well as that of hearing, in these animals is

'AprU.] FUR-SEALS. 75

remarkably acute ; and for sagacity they are not a wliit inferior to the
dog. This latter quality, however, is more strikingly exhibited in their
natural element than on land.

* As a proof of their docility, I may mention, that I have taken two
young pups, of two or three weeks old, taught them to feed, and kept
them with me, as pets, for two or three months ; in which time they
became so tame that they would eat out of my hand, — expressing for
nie a great degree of fondness and affection, and soliciting my caresses
in the bleating voice of a young lamb. I should have probably had
them to this day, but some of the crew, whose enmity I had incurred
by a proper adherence to nautical discipline, found occasion to destroy
them both.

The fur-seal may be known from the hair-seal by its being of a
much smaller size ; their noses aro also smaller, and much more
pointed. In swimming, likewise, they have a sort of jumping motion,
not much unlike that of the porpoise ; frequently springing six or eight
feet clear of the water, which is a feat the hair-seal never performs,
except when excessively frightened, and even then they seldom succeed
in throwing their bodies clear of the water.

! When these animals are for the first time visited by man, they evince
no more apprehension of danger from their new guests than did the
natives of San Salvador when first visited by the Spaniards ; and the
confidence of the poor seals is requited in the same manner that theirs
was, — by robbery and murder ! In fact, they will lie still while their
companions are slaughtered and skinned. But they soon become ac-
quainted with the barbarous character of their invaders, withdraw their
ill-placed confidence, and avoid the fatal intimacy. They now acquire
habits of distrust and caution, and devise ways and means for counter-
acting human stratagem and treachery. They select more solitary
retreats, on the tops of rocks, beneath high projecting cliffs, from
ivhich they can precipitate themselves into the water the moment they
perceive the approach of their arch enemy. - •

While encamped in their rookeries, three or four sentinels are always
posted to keep a look-out while the others sleep ; and the moment a
boat makes its appearance, though it be a mile from the shore, these
faithful w^atchmen promptly give the alarm, when in an instant the
■whole rookery is in motion. Every one makes for the surf with all
possible expedition ; so that by the time the boat reaches the shore,
they will nearly all be in the water, with the exception of a few females
that have pups or young ones to take care of. These will remain to
defend and protect their charge until the last moment ; when, if hard
pushed, they will seize their pups by the back of the neck with their
teeth, and dive into the surf, where they are obliged to hold the heads
of the pups above water to prevent their sufibcation.

The males, many of them, will also stand their ground, and fight
very hard for the young seals ; often till they perish in the noble cause.
In different voyages to these seas, I have had more than fifty seamen
very severely bitten in some of these contests ; yet it seldom happens
that a man gets bitten who is not afraid of them : but the moment they
perceive the slightest symptom of fear or cowardice in their enemy,

76 THE SEA-ELEPHAI\'T. [1823.

they begin to follow him up very close. WTien excited, their motions are
very quick, — like the flash of a gun on touching the match : hence the
name of clap-jnatch^ which sailors apply to the female. In retreat or
pursuit, their speed is nearly equal to that of a man, and much swifter
on the rocks than could be anticipated from their appearance.

About the latter end of February the dog-seals go on shore : these
are the young male seals of the two preceding years ; but owing to
their youth and inexperience, are not yet allowed to attend the pregnant
females or clap-matches. The purposes for which they now seek dry
land are, to shed their coats, and give the new-starting crop of fine hau-
a chance to grow. By the first of May these objects are effected,
when they again take to the ocean, and are seldom seen near the shores
again until the first of July, when they appear and disappear alternately,
■ without order or any ostensible purpose, for the period of a month ;
after which they are seen no more until the first of September follow-
ing. During this month a herd of young seals, male and female, resort
to the shore ; and when they retire again to their favourite element, the
w'igs, or large male seals, make their appearance on the land, for the
purpose of selecting a suitable spot for their rookeries, where they are
to receive the clap-matches, or females of age. This completes the
annual round of visits made to the land by fur-seals of all classes. In
high northern latitudes the same process occurs in the opposite season.

I will nov/ attempt to give a description of the sea-elephant, an ani-
mal of w^hich the public in general have a very imperfect idea. The
male of this species has a cartilaginous substance projecting forvrard
from the nose, six or seven inches in length ; and from this peculiarity-
has the animal derived its name, as its purpose seems to be similar to
that of an elephant's proboscis. I have seen the male sea-elephant,
more than twenty-five feet in length, and measuring about sixteen feet
around the body ; vrhereas the female is never half that size, and in
form resembles the hair-seal, which does not materially differ from the
"fur-animal in shape, &:c.

! The male sea-elephant comes on shore the latter end of August ;
the female late in September, or about the first of October ; her purpose,
of course, to be delivered of a present burden, and afterward yield to
the irresistible influence of the universal passion. When the males
first come on shore they are so excessively fat, that I have seen two
from which might be produced a tun of oil ; but after a residence of
three months on the land, without food, they become, as might be
expected, very lean and emaciated. About the middle of Decembei',
their young being old enough to take the water, the whole breeding-
herd leave the shore, to follow where instinct leads among the hidden
recesses of the deep. About the first of January the brood of the
previous year come on shore to renew their coats ; and in the middle
of February the full-grown males and females do the same ; and by
the first of May they have all disappeared, both old and young.

From the fact of these animals living so long on shore without food
I should infer that they can derive sustenance by absorption during
this period, — consuming the substance of their own bodies. Hence
their extreme emaciation at the time they return to the ocean. There

April.] PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. 77

is a striking contrast between their clumsy, sluggisii motions on land
and their agility and sagacity in the water. Unlike the fur-seal, tlie
sea-elephant seldom runs or fights ; but when the club is aimed at his
scull, or the lance at his heart, he merely raises a supphcating look to
his murderer, while the tears overflow from his eyes, and then awaits
the death-stroke with a martyr-like composure. But were he conscious
of his own powers, or were his courage equal to them, the assailant
would probably get the worst of the bargain. Unwieldly as his form
appears, should he rush forward, and compel his enemy to come to
close quarters, human skill could avail little against the astonishing
power of his ja\v3, v.hich, in the agonies of death, will literally grind
the hardest stones to powder between his teeth.

It is a remarkable fact that the sea-elephant has never been seen in
the water by any navigator more than thirty rods from the shore. I
have seen them come up to take breath within half a cable's length
of the beach ; but even then they only allowed about half an inch of
their nose to come above water.

As I shall shortly invite the reader's attention to my passage through
the Strait of Magellan, it may not be improper in this place to offer a
few remarks on the long-agitated subject of a passage round Cape
Horn.

I have already said, that by hugging the western shore, the passage
to the Pacific is very much shortened : I would, therefore, earnestly
recommend shipmasters who intend to double Cape Horn always to
pass to the westward of the Falkland Islands, which will ensure them
smoother water and better v/eather. Experience has convinced me
that the coast here, at the proper season of the year, is not more dan-
gerous than our own coast in the fall. All navigators would be satis-
fied of this fact would they discard from their imaginations the homble
romances they have heard and read about Cape Horn, and judge for
themselves with unprejudiced minds, — most of these nautical legends
being only fit to class wdth the fiction of the Flying Dutchman.

I have wintered and summered off Cape Horn, and in its vicinity,
but never witnessed those extraordinary gales which we so often hear
spoken of; I have never encountered worse weather on tliis coast than
is experienced every autumn and spring in a passage from New- York
to Liverpool. In doubling Cape Horn, a ship may carry her royal-
yards with as much ease as she can along our northern coast in the
seasons before mentioned, and in the early part of winter.
> In this opinion, founded on my own experience, I am sustained by
the testimony of Cook, Vancouver, La Perouse, and others, including
my friend Captain Weddell, whose journals are all before the pubhe.
The four gentlemen here named as circumnavigators of the globe
occupy the very highest rank in nautical eminence, and require not the
homely eulogium of a seaman's pen. But their journals are not
*• steeped in horrors ;" they found nothing terrible, formidable, or even
difficult, in doubling Cape Horn, or in exploring other distant regions,
as others of far inferior abilities have done.

But though these contradictory reports cannot well be reconciled,
they may perhaps be accounted for without imputing wilful misrepre-

78 PASSAGE ROUIsD CAPE HORX. [1823.

sentation to any one. No two men can view the same object through
the same medium, because their mental as well as physical organiza-
tions are diflerently constructed and arranged. Peculiar circumstances
also produce powerful and lasting impressions. What would have
been the report of a Patagonian or a Terra del Fuegan navigator,
had he visited our coast on the 23d of September, 1815, somewhere
in the vicinity of Nantucket, or at the entrance of I-ong Island Sound ?
On his return to the placid Strait of Magellan, he would have congratu-
lated his countrymen on being placed by Providence so far beyond the
reach of such a horrible tornado as he had witnessed in the most
pleasant month of a northern autumn ; and the horrors of doubling
jMontauk Point vrould have been the theme of many a winter's even-
ing tale.

To some minds trivial and even common difficulties are apt to loom
up into evils of enormous magnitude : how much more so when en-
countered for the first time, and at a vast distance from the scenes of
early days ! But even such persons, "when once they become famil-
iarized to danger and hardships, view every thing with a clearer,
calmer, and more philosophic eye, until they are "willing to confess
that every part of the created universe has its uses and its beauty, and
that every apparent evil is a real good. " In wisdom thou hast made
them all !" "His tender mercies are over all his works."

To return from this digression. Ships bound round Cape Horn,
after passing the Strait of Le Maire and Cape Good Success (a pro-
jecting point of Terra del Fuego, a little south of the strait), should
steer S.S.AV. half W., taking care to pass to the south and east of all
the islands, should the current set to the westward, which seldom
happens. If it be night, hovv-ever, and the "wind permit, they should
steer S. by W. half W. Should they be in want of wood and water,
they can obtain a supply in the Bay of Good Success, before leaving
the strait. This bav, which is visible from the northern entrance of
the strait, is about two miles wide, and extends into the land, west-
wardly, two miles and a half. Itniay easily be known by a peculiar
mark or feature on its southern side, resembling a broad turnpike-road
rimning into the country from the shore. The anchorage is good all
over it, in from four to twelve fathoms of water, clear ground. The
tide rises here about six feet, and it is high water on full and change
days at a quarter past four. The flood-tide runs to the north, and
about two hours longer in the strait than in the bay.

Four leagues south of this bay is the Cape of Good Success, before
mentioned, terminating in a point, from which the coast suddenly turns
to the westward. About forty miles from this cape, S.W. half W., is
New Island, within three leagues of the shore ; and seven leagues
S.W. from this lies Evout's Isle. At a short distance, S. by W. from
the latter, are two small low islands near to each other, called Barne-
velt's ; and four leagues farther, S.W. by S., is Cape Deceh.

Cape Horn, which lies nine miles farther S.S.W., may be known
by a high round hill over it, M'hich has a bold and majestic appearance,
being an elevated precipitous black rock rising conspicuously above all
the adjacent land. Back from the pitch of the cape, northwardly,
the country is covered with woods, and inliabited by a poor, miserable,

April.] PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. 79

inoffensive race of savages. The valleys and hill-sides in the neigh-
bourhood of the cape are covered with trees, moss, and green grass ;
but the summits of the hills are rough and rocky.

Nine miles north-north-east from Cape Horn is Cape Deceit, before
mentioned ; a rocky point, and the most easterly of Hermit's Islands.
This cape has a very deceptive appearance, and strangers should be
careful not to mistake it for Cape Horn ; for such mistakes have
occurred, as its name imports. The rocky islands callea Barnevelt's,
lying north-east-by-north from Cape Deceit, are surrounded by deep
bold water ; but ships should always keep to the eastward of them,
until the strait formed by Hermit's Islands and the main of Terra del
Fuego has been more critically explored and surveyed. The northern
entrance of this strait opens from the capacious Bay of Nassau, but I am
not sufficiently acquainted with its navigation to attempt a description.
I know, however, that it contains many fine harbours, sheltered from
all winds. On either side of Hermit's Islands, the passage is believed
to be safe ; there being deep water, and no hidden dangers. i

About the first of November, northwardly winds begin to prevail in
the vicinity of the cape ; and, with the exception of occasional changes,
continue mitil the first of February. From this period until May, the
wind generally blows from the south-^vest quarter, occasionally shifting
to the north-west. From the middle of May to the first of June, east-
erly winds and fine weather prevail ; and from July to October, the
wind varies from north to west, and round to south-east, every four or
five days.

About fifty miles south-west of Cape Horn are the islands of Diego
Ramirez, extending north-west and south-east, for a space of four or
five miles. This cluster is composed of three principal islands, and
a great many rocks above water. The centre island is the largest,
but contains neither wood nor water. As I shall speak of them pres-
ently, I have merely introduced them here because the currents in
their neighbourhood deserve some attention. Twenty-five miles to
the south of Diego Ramirez, the current is constantly setting to the
east-north-east, and north-east-by-east, about eight miles in twenty-
four hours. But farther in-sliore it is governed by the ebb and flood
tides, which correspond to the course of the land.

In doubling Cape Horn, with the wind from the north and west, or
from the east, ships bound to the Pacific Ocean should haul close round
the cape, and then, if practicable, make a due west course until they
are in the longitude of eighty west. If the wind continue to blow from
the north, they should run as far as ninety, as they may then have the
advantage of westerly winds to run to the northward, along the coast
of Chili ; being careful not to approach the land until they are to the
north of Valdivia.

The Cape Horn gales have already been alluded to m connexion
with the exaggerated accounts which several navigators have given
of them. The heaviest and most lasting of these are from south-
south-west to south-by-east. They are most frequent in the summer
months, and often last two or three days at a time. When the southern
horizon is filled with rising clouds, heavy and white, in a blue sky, it is
a sure indication of a lasting gale of wind from the south to south-

80 PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. [1823.

west, which often comes on very suddenly, scarcely allowing sufficient
time to take in the light sails, and close-reef the topsails.

When the wind sets in from the north and east, it generally increases
to a smart single-reef breeze ; at which it remains, unless it hauls to
the south-east, from which quarter it Avill blow a moderate gale, and
then die away to a perfect calm. But if it haul to the north, you
may depend upon two or three days of pleasant weather ; until it hauls
gently round to the north-west, where it will remain from twelve to
eighteen hours. It will then commence raining, and finally shift gently
to the south-west, when the weather w^ill become clear.

A northerly gale likewise comes on gradually, until it blows a double
or close-reef breeze, and lasts about twelve or eighteen hours, and then
draws to the north-west, which brings on rain. Presently it shifts
into the south-west, without relaxing its force, and continues m that
point for twelve or sixteen hours, when it dies away to a perfect calm.

Such is the general course of the wind and weather in the vicinity
of Cape Horn, for the season round.

The islands of Diego Ramirez, mentioned above, are in latitude
56° 27' S., long. 68° 38' 45" W. They are, in fact, a cluster of
barren rocks, frequented by seals of the fur kind, and various oceanic
birds. The westernmost rock is the highest, and is surrounded by
several small rocks, sufhciently elevated for birds and seals to resort
to. These rocks are sixteen leagues from Horn Island, between which
and them the passage is open, and entirely free from danger. Around
these rocks the water is bold within a cable's length of them ; and in
clear weather a ship may safely run for them in the night, by keeping
a good look-out.

West of Hermit's are Ildefonso's Islands, in latitude 55° 50' 30"
S., long. 69° 18' W. This is a group of rocky isles lying twenty
miles distant from the nearest land. The passage between them and
Diego Ramirez is thirty-five miles in width, and entirely free from dan-
ger. From Ildefonso to the entrance of Christmas Sound, the course
is north-wTst-by-v/est-half-west, distant twenty-eight or thirty miles.

Christmas Sound lies to the westward of Cape Horn, about ninety-
five miles. It w^as visited in 1774 by the celebrated Cook, who ob-
serves that it affords good anchorage in various parts. At the head
of the sound is a sandy beach, with a run of fresh water. Fish are
scarce here, and fowls not very abundant. There are plenty of muscles
and good celery. AYood and water can be had in all the various coves
and harbours. The inhabitants live on the low islands in the bay, and
are a short, miserable race of savage beings. At the west entrance
of Christmas Sound is a lofty promontory, called York-minster, in
iathude 55° 25' S., long. 69° 58' W. The adjacent country, both
east and west, has an inhospitable and dreary appearance. The coast
is broken, and forms a chain of islands.

Ten leaofues to the westward of Christmas Sound are Gilbert's
Islands ; and about the same distance west-north-west of them is
Cape Desolation, in latitude 54° 55' S., long 71° 42' W. Fifteen
leagues west-by-north of this cape is the entrance to St. Barbara's
Channel, which leads into the Strait of Magellan. Cape Noir forms

May.] THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. Ql

the western pom of this entrance, a dark rocky island, in latitude 54*
31' S., long. 73^ 15' W. Three leagues south-east-by-south from
this cape are the La Tour Isles ; and eight leagues north-west from
Cape Noir is Cape Gloucester, in lathude 54^ 6' S., long. 73^ 34'
30" W. This latter cape is high and roimd, having much the ap-
pearance of an island. i

About sixteen leagues to the north-west of Cape Gloucester is
Land-fall Island, which presents a high and rugged appearance ; and
between the two are many rocks and reefs, stretching about two
leagues from the shore. The coast now runs north-west-by-west to
Cape Deseado, between which and Land-fall Island is one chain of
small islands. North of Cape Deseado is Cape Pillar, the north-west
extremity of Terra del Fuego, and constituting the southern boundary
of the western entrance into the Straits of Magellan.

Having thus assisted the reader in doubling Cape Horn, and piloted
him fairly into the Pacific Ocean, without exposing him to a single
danger, I shall now conduct him back to Staten Land, in the Atlantic ;
and from thence invite him to accompany me on another route to the
same place ; viz. through the Strait of Magellan.

April 29. — On Tuesday, the twenty-ninth of April, at six o'clock,
P. M., we weighed anchor, and sailed from Staten Land, with a fine
south-westerly breeze and fair weather; our course in steering for
the Strait of Magellan being west-north-west. Leaving Capes St.
Diego and St. Vincent on our left, we soon came abreast of St. Innes,
in latitude 54^ 7' S., long. 66° 58' W. This is a very remarkable
part of the coast, from the appearance of a table-land, which mariners
generally calculate to make when they are bound round Cape Horn.
From Cape St. Innes to Cape St. Sebastian, the course is Avest-north-
west-half-north, distance about twenty leagues. The shore between the
two last-mentioned capes is rocky, and dangerous to approach in the
night. Cape St. Sebastian is the southern boundary of a channel of
the same name, wliich is navigable by small vessels, and runs into the
Strait of Magellan. Fourteen leagues north-west from Cape St. Se-.
bastian is Queen Catherine's Foreland, in latitude 52° 42' S., long.
68° 27' W. Variation per azimuth 23° 15' easterly. This cape
forms the southern boundary of the Atlantic entrance to the Strait of
Magellan, being the north-east extremity of Terra del Fuego. Cape
Virgin, the south-east point of Patagonia, forms the northern boundary
of the same strait.

Ma)/ 1st. — On Thursday, the first day of May, we arrived in safety
at the east entrance of the Strait of Magellan. At four o'clock, P.
M., we passed Queen Catherine's Foreland, with the wind at south-
west, and fair weather. It may be proper to remark in this place, that
thick or wet weather is very uncommon on the east coast of Patago-
nia. We continued to ply westwardly during the night, keeping one
man constantly in the chains, heaving the lead.

May 2d, — On Friday morning, at'^five o'clock, A. jNI., we passed the
narrows, with a strong tide in our favour ; and at nine, P. M., we came
to anchor in the harbour of Cape Negro, in five fathoms of water,
clay bottom. F

^% STRAIT OF MAGELL.\N. [182».

CHAPTER YI.

Strait of Magellan — Face of the Country — Hailed by a Troop of Patagonians —
Arrival at Port Famine — History of the Place — Ledger River — Natural Produc-
tions — An Excursion into the Interior — Ruins of Philipville — Cape Froward
— Indians of the Highlands described — A Visit to their Village — The Visit recip-
rocated — Excursion up the River Capac, accompanied by tw^o Chiefs — Adven-
tures in returning — Filial Aflection of a Chief's Son — Character, Manners,
Habits, Customs, Employments, and Dress of the Natives — Their Canoes,
Arms,&c. — Their Want of Cleanliness, moral Condition, and probable Origin —
Enter the Pacific Ocean.

Terra del Fuego, generally represented as one large island, is in
fact composed of several islands, the cluster being separated from the
continent of South America by the Strait of Magellan. The passages
between these different islands are very narrow, and have never yet
been explored. The interior of the largest presents a cold, dreary,
cheerless, and desolate appearance ; rising into rugged barren moun-
tains, the summits of which are covered with snow. One of these is
a volcano, the fires of which occasionally brighten and illunie the
snows, which they can never melt.

" Here it was," says Burney, " that the sailors observed fires on
the sonthern shores of the strait, for which reason the land on that
side was called Terra del Fuego." Another writer says, " Narrow
channels, strong currents, and boisterous winds render it dangerous to
enter into this desolate labyrinth. The coast, which is composed of
granite, lava, and basaltic rocks, is inaccessible in many places.
Cataracts interrupt the stillness that reigns there ; seals sport in the
bays, or repose their unwieldy bodies on the sand."

Notwithstanding the cheerless and forbidding aspect of this country.
It is not destitute of vegetation or inhabitants. In the valleys are to
be found several sorts of trees of a large growth, which are frequented
by various kinds of birds. Here, also, a rich soil of considerable
depth is clothed with beautiful verdure. At the base of almost every
hill is a brook of good water, having a reddish hue, but not ill tasted*
I The Strait of Magellan, at its eastern entrance, is between six and
seven leagues in width, and has from fifteen to fifty fathoms of water.
Many vessels have passed through this strait to the Pacific Ocean,
though the navigation is said to be diflicult, which is not the case.
There are many good harbours to be found in this passage, and an-
chorage under either shore, all the way through ; the bottom generally
good holding-ground. Within the strait the wind never blows fresh
from north-north-east, round by the eastward to south-east-by-east ;
consequently a shelter from these points is unnecessary. Wood and
water can be procured with ease, fish may be caught in great abun-
dance, and antiscorbutic vegetables are found on both shores.

May.] STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. ' g3

^ The rise of the tide at the east entrance is about sixteen feet, and
about eight feet at the west entrance, running regularly each way, and not
swifter than two miles an hour, excepting in the narrows, where it runs
about five miles an hour. Violent gales are never experienced here
from any quarter ; the passage through is perfectly safe for vessels of any
size, and the navigation is pleasant and easy. If the navigator have
before him the latest edition of Arrowsmith's chart, he may avoid
every difficulty, as there is but one dangerous impediment in the whole
passage more than two cables' length from shore, that is not
readily shown by the hand-lead. The danger alluded to lies aboiit
five miles north-east of the narrows, and always betrays itself by the
kelp or rock-weed which rises from it above the surface of the water.
Vessels must keep to the north of this shoal, and leave it under their
larboard quarter.

Ships bound through this strait may run day and night by keeping
the north shore on board, until they come up with Indian Sound, and
then keeping the south shore on board until they reach Cape Pillar, at
the west entrance, on the Pacific coast. By following these direc-
tions, they will have the advantage of the prevailing ^yinds, and keep
smooth water.

i On arriving at Cape Pillar, if the wind blow from the westward,
and it is thought inexpedient to put to sea, vessels may come to an-
chor in a perfectly safe harbour, about three miles south-east of the
cape, on the shore of Terra del Fuego. The entrance to this harbour
is covered by two small islands, which may be passed on either side,
in twenty fathoms of water. Then double a point which runs out
from the land in a north-east direction, and enter the cove behind it,
which extends to the south-west and west-north-v/est about two mile&,
and come to anchor in from four to ten fathoms of water, mud and
clay bottom, and sheltered from all winds.

■ • It would be tedious to the reader, as well as to myself, to enumerate
and name all the safe and commodious harbours in this noble strait;.
Let it suffice, that there is such a one every five or ten miles, or equally
safe anchorage for ships of any size. *

IMagellan's Strait is about three hundred and seventy-five miles in
length, from its eastern entrance on the Atlantic coast to its western
entrance on the Pacific coast. But let it not be inferred from this that
the continent in this vicinity is of that extent from one ocean to the
other, as the course of the strait forms two sides of a nearly right*
angled triangle ; a third side would measure the distance across this
part of the continent ; say one hundred and ninety miles. Terra del
Fuego, from east to west along the south shore of the strait, is about
three hundred and sixty miles in length, and about one hundred and
sixty in breadth, from north to south, measuring from Cape Horn to
the strait. This part of the country contains a large population,
especially in the vicinity of the strait.

Before I proceed any further into the strait, it may be proper to give
the reader some, idea of the face of the country, as the eastern and
western parts are very different from each other, not only in their

84 CAPE NEGRO— PORT FAMINE. [1823.

aspect, but also in natural productions, as well as in the appearance
and character of the natives.

I have not the least doubt that the Cordilleras, or chain of the An-
des, once extended in an unbroken range to Cape Horn, and perhaps
still farther south ; and that earthquakes, eruptions of volcanoes, or
some other convulsion of nature, have broken the chain, and thus
separated Terra del Fuego from the continent ; at the same time
shattering the former into several smaller pieces of irregular shape.
I am led to this opinion by the exact correspondence which exists in
the aspect of the country on both sides the strait.

At the eastern entrance, the land is low on both sides. The island
formed by St. Sebastian's channel, on the left or south side of the
passage, is a wide rolling prairie — an extensive field of low land. The
land on the right or north side is of a similar character, and continues
so through the whole extent of Patagonia ; which is, comparatively
a long strip -of meadow, stretching itself at the base of the Andes, and
fringing the margin of the sea.

Thus from Cape Negro, where we were now lying at anchor, to
the Atlantic, the land is low, undulating, and destitute of trees ; while
westward to the Pacific, it wears a very different aspect. Here j.he
country begins to rise in broken ridges, which finally become rugged
mountains ; being evidently but smaller links of the vast Andean chain ;
of which Cape Froward appears to be the point of fracture, reduced
by attrition to an ordinaiy elevation. The sides of these mountains
are covered with ancient forests, while the verdant bottom lands abound
with shrubbery, grass, and plants of various descriptions.

May Zd. — On Saturday morning, being at anchor in the harbour of
Cape Negro, at four o'clock, A. I\I., we saw many of the Patagoniaii
natives on the beach abreast of the vessel, making signs for the boats
to come on shore. At five, A. M., we were making preparations to
land, when a man at the mast-head discovered about two hundred of
the natives on horseback, in a small valley, about a quarter of a mile
from the beach. On being apprized of this fact, we declined going on
shore ; and at six, A. iM., got under way, and steered to the south for
Port Famine. I

As soon as the savages perceived that we were bound to the south,
they all showed themselves ; being about two hundred horsemen, armed
with long spears and bows and arrows, with a drove of about four
hundred guanacoes. But being now under full sail, with a smart
breeze from the west, I thought it inexpedient to alter om* course for
the sake of holding any intercourse with these copper-coloured stran-
gers. If they desired an interview, they might easily follow us along
shore to Port Famine, a -distance of about fifty miles. We therefore
left them to their own reflections, and kept on our course. At four, P.
M., we came to anchor at Port Famme, in five fathoms of water,
muddy bottom. j

! A brief history of this place will account for its present meager
name. In the year 1551, the Spaniards selected the spot for the
establishment of a colony, and brought hither about four hundred per-
sons of both sexes to commence it. A fortress was soon erected to

May.] PORT FAxMLNE. 85

protect the new colonists from the neighbouring savages, and a small
town built for the families of the Spanish emigrants. This infant set-
tlement, which was called Philipville, in honour of the then reigning *
monarch of Spain, was intended to command this passage to the Pacific,
and their valuable possessions on the western coast of the continent ;
a passage rotmd Cape Horn not being known at that period. The site
was judiciously selected, being about one hundred and twenty miles
from the eastern entrance of the strait, having a good harbour, with a
back country susceptible of much improvement. Had not the inviting
riches of Peru, Mexico, and the West Indies diverted the attention of the
Spanish government from this project, it could not have failed of suc-
cess, and none but Spanish ships would have been permitted to pass
the strait without paying for the privilege.

i Here these unfortunate settlers were left, without a sufficient stock
of provisions to sustain them, until the land could be prepared and
crops produced by labour and perseverance. Spaniards are pro-
verbially indolent, and are seldom willing to work, until driven to it by
necessity. Expecting to be regularly supplied from the mother country',
they probably did not exert their faculties much to provide for the
future. Had they been such men as are daily emigrating from the
New-England states to our western wilderness, so far from suffering
from famine, they would in a few years have converted this region of
Patagonia into a fruitful garden, and Philipville would at this moment
have been a splendid city.

About seven years after the establishment of this colony, it was
visited by the celebrated English navigator Cavendish, who entered
the strait in 1587. On arriving at Philipville he found the colony
aimihilated, only one individual out of the original four hundred being
left alive ! All had perished by famine, except twenty-three ; who, to
avoid such a horrible fate, had undertaken to explore their way through
the wilderness to Rio de la Plata ; and no doubt fell victims to the
savage ferocity of the natives, as they were never again heard of. To
perpetuate the sad fate of this colony. Cavendish called the place
Port Famine, and took the unhappy survivor to England.

In this harbour, or rather in this fine capacious bay, twenty ships
of the line might be moored in perfect safety, and supply themselves
with wood and water with very little trouble. The bay abounds with
fish of various kinds, and a plenty of birds may be had at the expense
of a little powder and shot. By this means, during our whole passage
through the strait, our table was daily furnished with a tempting
variety ; such as geese, duck, teal, snipes, plovers, race-horses, &c.
embellished with wild celery, which may be gathered in any quantities.
The banks of Ledger River, which empties into this bay, abreast of the
anchorage, are covered with trees of various kinds, and the finest that
I ever saw. Here are white-oak, red-oak, beech, and a sort of bastard
cedar, which, in my opinion, would make the finest masts for line-of-
battle ships that have ever yet been stepped in a kelson. Some of
them are of great height, varj'ing from five to seven feet in diameter.

In a subsequent voyage, I explored this river for about twenty-five
miles from its mouth, and found the country on both sides extremely

86 EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. [1823.

fine ; the soil being rich and mellow, and not less than eighteen inches
in depth. The valleys are clothed with luxuriant verdure ; the clover-
iields of Pennsylvania, if suffered to go a few seasons unmowed,
would alone furnish a parallel. This clover was so completely matted
and entangled that it was difficult to determine its actual height; but
it was certainly not less than two feet. On the banks of the river are
copper, lead, and iron ore, of which I obtained specimens. Some fine
svood is also found here, two kinds of which I examined. One was red,
and the other a bright yellow ; the grain of each very fine.

The valleys are seldom visited by the frost or snow, so that the ber-
ries are found on the bushes all the winter, without being touched by
the frost. There are some streams descending to this river which
would make fine mill-seats. I found the country very pleasant from
Point Negro to this place ; undulating in hills and dales, and covered
with groves, flowers, clover, and grass of various kinds. Many of
the flowers were not inferior in beauty or fragrance to those -which
are cultivated in our gardens. I am not, however, sufficiently ac-
quainted with the science of botany to describe them. In short, if
this land was in possession of a civilized industrious people, who
well understood the theory and practice of agriculture, I have no
doubt that it would become, in a very few years, one of the finest
countries in the world, as the inhabitants would be far more moral
and happy than if every thing grew spontaneously to their hand. "We
cannot know the real value of any thing unless we labour for it. Tiiis
fact converts the original curse into the greatest earthly blessing. i

Having passed through Magellan's Strait six times, at different
seasons, and always with sufficient leisure lo examine the natural pro-
ductions of the country, the result of my observations is a conviction
that the Spanish navigator Cordova has given a more correct descrip-
tion of the plants, trees, and animals on the northern border of the
strait than any other writer. But he did not sufficiently penetrate
into the interior, w^hich abounds with productions that are unknown in
the vicinity of the shore. It was my misfortune, however, to be des-
titute of scientific aid in all my researches, or I am confident that Cor-
dova's catalogue might have been much enlarged.

We anchored in the harbour of Port Famine at four o'clock, P. M.,
in" the afternoon of Saturday, the third of May, corresponding to the
third of our November — a month distinguished in the United States by
a period of mild, soft, pleasant weather, called the Indian summer.
The weather at our anchorage, on Saturday evening, so forcibly re;-
minded me of this peculiar period, that I determined to make ah
excursion into the country in search of valuable die-woods and mine-
rals, and to see if these southern forests wore the same variegated
dress in autumn as distinguishes our own at that season. I therefore
selected as my companions three M'orthy and intelligent young men,
viz. Messrs. John Simmons, William Cox, and Charles Cox, all natives
of New-York, where they are yet citizens.

Having given the necessary instructions to my first officer, and
ascertained that we were all well armed and equipped, we started on
our expedition towards the southern extremity of the lofty Andes. Our

May.] EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR 87

weapons were muskets, pistols, and cutlasses, and our provisions a
week's supply of bread, as we trusted to our arms for venison and
poultry ; and I had never known them to deceive me, if any thing came
within musket or pistol distance. We took a west-north-west course
by compass, and travelled several miles without seeing such game as
we considered worthy the honour of a civilized death, by powder and
ball. Our vigilance, however, began to sharpen with our appetites ; so
that before nine o'clock we had sufficient fresh meat for a much larger
party, having killed a fine deer and two guanacoes.

We now selected our quarters for the night on the bank of a fresh-
water rivulet, where there was but very little underbrush ; but where
the forest trees grew to a great height, mterweaving their thick and lofty
branches so closely, that had there been a noon-day sun over our
heads, we should hardly have been sensible of it. While my com-
panions were employed in skinning our game, I was busy in building
a fire ; which, as there was no want of fuel, was soon large enough to
have barbacued an ox. A saddle of one of the guanacoes was soon
spitted and suspended, in the gipsy style, on the windward side of our
flaming volcano, where we contrived to present every side to the in-
fluence of the heat until it was fit for the table. The fat, of course,
was mostly wasted, except so much of it as we caught Vvith our bread.
Each of us being supplied with pepper, salt, and a good appetite, it
must have been our own fault if we did not enjoy a good supper, equal
to the best roast mutton I ever tasted.

After giving our dogs a share of the supper, and having piled on
about two cartloads of wood, we all stretched our weary limbs and
bodies by the fire, with each a bunch of dry autumnal leaves for a
pillow. Thus moored, as we thought, for the night, we soon fell
asleep, each with one hand on a pistol, with as much composure as if
we had been in bed at the far distant homes of which we v;ere dreaming.

We slept very soundly until about midnight, when we were suddenly
alarmed by the distant barking of our dogs. In a moment every man
vras on his feet, with his firearms in his hands, primed and cocked.
The dogs continued to bark, and the sound evidently approached nearer
and nearer. A rustling noise v/as now heard in the underbrush. Eveiy
one was prepared for the approaching crisis, with an undaunted front,
and his finder on the tricroer of his musket. At this moment of anx-
ious suspense, there suddenly appeared before us — one of our dogs,
v.itli a small gray fox in his custody, which had been surprised and
captured while in the very act of approaching our fire !

After caressing and rewarding these faithful animals for their
vigilance and fidelity, we again " addressed ourselves to sleep ;" but
in about two iiours, we were again alarmed in the same manner, and
with a like result, viz. another gray fox. Finding our repose thus
liable to be constantly broken, we concluded to sleep no more. We
therefore resumed our journey towards that stupendous range of moun-
tains Mdiich extends through more than seventy degrees of latitude, or
about four thousand three hundred miles !

3Ia)/ 4th. — It was now Sunday morning, and we still travelled by
compass in the direction of west-north-west, as nearly as we could lay

$8 EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. [1823.

that course ; being often compelled to deviate from it by tbe face of the
country, interspeised with elevated ridges, watercourses, precipices,
6ic. This day's journey, though fatiguing, was very pleasant and
interesting. Parrots, and other birds of the most beautiful plumage,
surrounded us on every side (several of a species which I have never
seen in the museums or the private collections of naturalists). I also
examined various trees, which I liave no doubt are highly valuable,
some for cabinet furniture, and others for drugs, and perhaps for die-
stuffs. I regretted extremely that we had not a scientific botanist and
mineralogist whh us, as my own knowledge of those sciences is very
limited. But I am confident there is abundance of valuable wood in this
unexplored country ; and the specimens of copper, lead, and iron which
I brought away with me were pronounced to be, by the late scientific
Doctor Miicliill, the purest and most free from alloy of any that he had
ever seen.

The interior of this country, I also discovered, abounds with some
very valuable vegetables for mariners who are pursuing long voyages ;
such as celery, scurvy-grass, and a variety of berries of very agreeable
liavour. To this circumstance Byron imputes the healthiness of his
whole ship's company, not a single person being afieeted with the
scurvy in the slightest degree ; nor was a single individual on the sick-
list from any other disorder. Among other curious trees which I ex-
amined in this excursion is the pepper-tree, or winter's bark, noticed
by Commodore Byron. These grow here in great plenty, as do many
others, with the nature of which I am totally unacquainted.

We continued to proceed in the same direction until ten o'clock, P. M.,
when we found ourselves on the eastern declivity of a mountain which
ascended gradually towards the north. This we concluded to be a
part of the celebrated chain before mentioned, the Cordilleras of the
Andes, and judged ourselves to be now about thirty miles from the
vessel, and forty-five from Cape Froward. Here we built a large fire,
and made a hearty supper of venison, having killed a fat deer but a
short time before. We then sought a fev/ hours' repose ; but found it
almost impossible to sleep, as the dogs were engaged the whole night
among wild animals of difierent kinds. We therefore relinquished the
hope of rest, and at two hours after midnight, began to retrace our
weary steps towards Port Famine.

Mai/ Dtk. — This was ^Monday, the fifth; and we laboured through
the underbrush and matted clover with very little intermission, in the
direction of east-south-east, until noon, when we thought it expedient to
take some rest and refreshment. At two, P. 31., we again set forward,
and reached the schooner in safety at eleven o'clock the same evening,
•almost exhausted with fatigue and the want of sleep. We brought on
board with us, among other curiosities, several birds we had shot, of
the most beautiful plumage ; but which, for want of proper preserva-
tion, we were obliged to throw overboard afterward. I believe, how-
ever, that the richest museum in the world might derive some new and
valuable acquisitions from the interior of this unexplored country. Its
immense resources are as yet entirely unknown, as the avenues which
lead to them are still guarded by the dragons of traditionar}'' fable.

May.] PHILIPVIJXE— CAFE FROWARD— INDIAN SOUND. 89

May 6tli. — Having recruited our strength and spirits by sleep and
refreshment, we again went on shore, and examined the ancient ruins
of Philipville. During the day we also shot several otters, and saw
many of the Fuegian natives on the opposite shore. We likewise
visited the fort which had been erected to protect the Spanish colony
from the natives, and to command the strait. It appeared to be but
little decayed, considering the length of time it had been abandoned.
This fortress was built only eighty years after the first discovery of the
American continent by Columbus ; and a very little labour would now
restore it to its original condition, and render it an efiective protection
against any attacks which the natives could make. The ruins of the
town bear much stronger marks of the withering touch of time. The
remains of some stone edifices are yet visible ; but the walls have
generally crumbled into complete decay. After exarainmg this part
of the country to our satisfaction, and inspecting a number of wigwams
of a conical form, which the natives had recently deserted, apparently
from fear of hostilities on our part, we prepared to leave Port Famine,
and double the cape which forms the centre angle of the strait, and
the most southern extremity of the continent.

3lay 7th. — On Wednesday, the seventh, at five o'clock, A. JVL, we
again got under way, and steered to the south, with the wind from
west-north-west, and a light rain. At ten, A. M., we passed Cape Fro-
ward, and changed our course, first to west, then to west-north-west,
which is tliat of the strait from this cape to the Pacific Ocean. In
passing this angle of the strait, we saw many of the natives on the
shore, apparently just landed or landing from a fishing excursion. But
no sooner did they see our vessel than they abandoned their canoes,
and all started for a neighbouring wood, where they remained until we
had doubled the cape, and left it behind oft cur starboard quarter.
These Indians are a distinct race from the Patagonians, as will appear
presently.

This unexpected timidity on their part led me to suspect that they
had lately experienced foul play from some civilized., Christian naviga-
tor, who, conscious of physical power, had forgotten humanity, and per-
haps justice. I therefore came to the resolution of opening an inter-
course with the next tribe I fell in with ; and, if possible, of inspiring
them with confidence towards foreigners and strangers.

May Sth. — On Thursday, the eighth, we continued our course' to-
wards the Pacific, nearly in a west-north-west direction, passing York
Road and some very picturesque scenery on the northern shore, re-
sembling the Highlands of the Hudson. At eleven o'clock, P. M., we
came to anchor at the mouth of Indian Sound, where a vast number of
the natives were fishing by torch-light. From attendant circumstances
I concluded that we were now near the location of an extensive tribe.
In order that we miglit not alarm them, I had the vessel moored with
as little noise as possible, while the binacle-lights were promptly ex-
tinguished. We had anchored in four fathoms of water, with clay
bottom, and with such precaution that the natives continued their voca-
tion, totally unconscious of our proximity, until after midnight. Our
watch on deck consisted of one-half the crew at a time, every man

90 VISIT TO AX INDIAN VILLAGE. [1823.

well armed ami prepared for any contingency ; but with orders never
to act, except on the defensive.

At four o'clock, A. M., I ordered the boats to be lowered, manned,
and armed. In a few minutes afterward we started for the Indian
village within the sound. After pulling round the point which covers
its entrance, and opening a beautiful valley, we discovered the village
within one hundred and fifty yards of the boats. In a moment after,
we saw about four hundred dogs rushing towards us, wliile the natives
were seen flying from their huts, men, women, and children, apparently
in a paroxysm of alarm.

As my object was to conciliate this inofl^ensive people, we paused in
our progress, and lay ofi' on our oars ; making amicable signs for the
natives to lay down their weapons, bows and arrows, which they did
without hesitation. I then pulled in to the shore, and landed a short
distance from the Indians ; and by signs invited six of them to meet
me. This they also did, with evident willingness. After giving them
a friendly and even cordial reception, which inspired them with re-
newed conlidence, I invited them to enter one of my boats, while I
advanced and saluted their friends. This request they complied with,
but with some reluctance ; when I ordered the boats to haul off, and lay
about the fourth of a mile from the shore.

Having thus secured a sufficient number of hostages for my personal
safety, I advanced along the beach to have an interview with the whole
tribe, consisting of about two thousand, of both sexes and all ages, by
whom I was received in the most amicable manner. They took me
to their wigwams, and showed me every mark of hospitality in their
power. I remained on shore with them about two hours ; a part of
which time I spent in examining their habitations and mode of living,
and the remainder in shooting birds at some distance in the woods.

At length the natives began to evince some symptoms of uneasiness -
respecting the fate of their friends and countrymen in my boat. On
perceiving this, I promptly repaired to the shore, and ordered the boat
to pull in. The moment she reached the beach the six Indians leaped
on shore, apparently rejoicing at their safe deliverance. I then entered
the boat, and invited the one whom I supposed to be the chief of the
tribe to accompany me to the vessel. To this proposition, however,
he would not accede, until I ordered one of my men to jump on shore,
and run up to the village, to show them how much we relied on their
fidelity. On seeing this, the chief instantly appreciated the motive,
and stepped into the boat, with a confidence that bespoke intellect and
feeling. In a few minutes we were on board the Wasp, where we
found a warm breakfast prepared, awaiting the return of the boats.

This chief appeared to be a man of amiable disposition, and con-
siderable mind, the evidences of which were legibly written in his
countenance. As soon as he found himself on the deck of the schooner,
he looked around him with an expression of strong curiosity, not un-
mingled with surprise, and in some instances astonishment. These
sentiments were still more forcibly expressed when I conducted him to
the cabin, and invited him to take a seat at the breakfast table. He
examined every thing as if he wished to become acquainted with its

jVIay.] FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE. 91

nature, principles, causes, and effects ; so that I set him down for an
Indian philosopher. He seemed to combine the spirit of deep investiga-
tion with the childish simplicity of the untutored Indian.

At table he evinced a degree of diffidence, and even delicacy, which
is not common in the savage character. He seemed to relish our food,
however, and showed a particular partiality for molasses and sugar.
After breakfast we took him on shore, and restored him to his anxious
family and subjects, who received him with the loudest demonstrations
of pleasure.

May 9th. — This afternoon we were visited by a great number of the
natives in canoes. As soon as they had approached within hearing,
they commenced singing in a plaintive strain, accompanied with a va-
riety of gestiu'es, which I afterward learned were symbolical tokens
of friendship. When they had come within a few yards of the vessel
they ceased paddlmg, and appeared to be waiting for some encourage-
ment to advance. I therefore made signs for them to come on board.
These signs were either misconstrued or else they wanted more time
to examine the exterior of the schooner before they ventured on board.
From their manoeuvres, inspection, gestures, and consultations, it ap-
peared to me as if they were doubtful v/hether the Wasp was actually
a big canoe or a monster of the deep.

After paddling round the vessel, and critically examining her fore
and aft, some of them approached her on the larboard side, and two
of the men at length ventured to come on board. I received them in
the most friendly manner, and invited them to partake of such provi-
sions as we had at hand — beef, pork, potatoes, and bread, to which I
helped them plentifully. They readily partook of the beef, and ap-
peared so extravagantly fond of the potatoes that I regretted I had not
a larger supply, having only a limited quantity on board as a prevent-
ive of the scurvy. The pork they promptly rejected, and scarcely
tasted of the bread. This circumstance might lend some support to an
hypothesis lately advanced, and sustained with considerable ability, that
the aborigines of America are descendants of the lost tribes of Israel.

As many of their canoes were now alongside I distributed food and
some trifling presents to all of them. As they appeared to set a pe-
culiar value on scraps of iron, or any article made of that material, I
contrived to supply every one with a piece of an old hoop, a broken
hinge, a crooked pump-bolt, or a rusty spike ; while to the females I
gave each a string of beads. They seemed much delighted with my
apparent Jiberality, and frequently pointed upwards as they mumbled
over a few unintelligible words, among which I could distinguish one
which sounded like Setedos^ which I afterward understood to signify
the Deity.

Previous to their departure, the chief, whose name was Cheleule,
made a short speech to his subjects, wdio immediately responded to it
in a kind of chorus, or devotional anthem, in which they often repeated
the word Setedos, at the same time pointing to heaven with much ap-
parent awe and reverence. When this ceremony was finished they all
paddled for the shore, and repaired to their wigwams in the village,
which was about three-quarters of a mile from the vessel.

92 EXCURSION UP INDIAN SOUND. [1828.

May 10th. — This day about fifteen hundred of the natives came
alongside, men, women, and children ; and now that they had acquired
confidence in our amicable intentions, they became amusing and interest-
ing. I permitted them all to come on board by turns, and partake of
that hospitality which had so delighted their friends tlie preceding day.
Previous to their departure I succeeded in making Cheleule understand
that I was going up to the head of the sound whh two boats on the
following morning, in search of die-woods ; and wished him, with three
or four of his tribe, to accompany me. To this proposition he readily
assented, and took his leave.

3Ia}/ 1 1 th. — This morning our boats were lowered, and prepared for
a week's cruise. A brass swivel with plenty of ammunition was placed
in each of them, together with a due number of muskets, pistols, and
lances. I selected ten men for our contemplated excursion, who were
armed with cutlasses. When every thing was ready, my first officer
having received his instructions respecting his deportment to the na-
tives during our absence, we left the vessel and pulled for the village.
The chief, Cheleule, was awaiting our arrival on the beach with four
of his people : I immediately requested him to leave orders with his
tribe for no one to go ofi' to the vessel until we returned. With this re-
quest he readily complied, and his orders were strictly obeyed, for not
a single canoe approached the Wasp during our absence.

Having received these honest savages on board our boats, we put on
the sails, and at 5, A.. M., steered for the head of the sound, m a west-
north-west direction, with the wind from south-west, and clear weather.
Although we passed along the shore very rapidly, I was enabled to per-
ceive that the soil was rich, and the country very fine. The farther
we advanced up the lagoon the heavier we found the timber, and the
thicker the grass. In fact, the more I saw of this part of the conti-
nent the better I liked it, and the firmer became my conviction that
th^re are few finer countries in the world.

At 12 o'clock we partook of a cold dinner with excellent appetites ;
and as we had now a leading wind, and were going at the rate of about
seven miles an hour, I concluded not to stop until night, as there were
no indications of the head of the bay being near at hand. In the
evening my savage friend Cheleule informed me that a very largo tribe
of natives was located about ten miles farther ; and therefore he
thought it would be best to land at a spot he pointed out, and encamp
for the night. I immediately adopted the suggestion, and steered " for
the point proposed."

At 9, P. M., we landed in a beautiful valley, covered with verdure, and
interspersed with groves, meadows, and other rural scenery of the
most picturesque description. I judged that we were now about eighty
miles from the vessel ; the southern extremity of the Cordilleras was
far to the eastward of us, and other indications bore testimony that we
were fanned by airs from the Pacific Ocean.

It being low water when we landed, we found an abundance of mus-
cles and clams, and caught about two hundred fine mullet at the mouth
of a small fresh-water river a few rods from the boats. Our four na-
tives soon had a fire kindled, while the sailors were employed in fell-

May.] EXCURSION UP THE RIVER CAPAC. 93

ing some red-wood trees, they being the best fuel-timber that grows.
The heat it produced was so intense that we could scarcely approach
the fire near enough to cook our suppers, which was done by boiling
about two barrels of clams and muscles, and frying a quantity of the
mullet.

About 11, P. M., we all turned in, or, more correctly, Idiydoicn by the
fire, keeping one man on the look-out through the night. At daylight
I was awakened by Cheleule, who gave me to understand that it was
time to be moving. Every man was soon on his feet, when we foimd
a warm breakfast ready prepared for us by the sailor who had the morn-
ing watch. As soon as this agreeable duty had been properly per-
formed, we re-embarked in our boats, and again proceeded on om* north-
westerly course.

3Iai/ I2th. — At 11, A. M., we had arrived at the head of the bay, or
salt-water lagoon, and were now about one hundred miles from the ves-
sel, on nearly a west-by-north course for eighty miles, and north-west-
by-west for twenty miles. Here we found a tribe of Indians compris-
ing about four thousand souls, men, women, and children, in a village
situated in a very extensive valley on the west bank of a river called
by the natives Capac. This river extends into the country about sev-
enty-five miles in a northerly direction, and i^ was my intention to as-
cend it as far as practicable, in search of die-woods.

We were favourably received and hospitably treated by the chief
and people of this powerful tribe of natives, and as soon as the usual
ceremonies of introduction were over, Cheleule prevailed on the chief,
whose name was Calexchem, to accompany us up the river ; he ac-
cordingly took a seat in my boat, and at 1, P. M., we were all ready for
a start, with a fresh breeze from south-south-west, attended with a
light rain. As we proceeded we carefully examined both banks of the
river for the purpose of finding die-stuffs.

After ascending this river about twenty miles, against a strong freshet,
we landed at 7, P. M., for the purpose of taking up our lodgings for
the night in the skirts of a pleasant valley which extended to the river.
Here we pitched our tent — fire and supper followed in the usual style
of exploring parties ; after which each man gathered from the trees as
much moss as would serve for a pillow, and then stretched himself by
the fire, on which we had placed a plenty of fuel, to keep the tenants
of the forest at a respectful distance.

About daylight we were alarmed by the roaring of some wild beast,
which the natives called faiche-ani, and which we afterward discov-
ered was the South American lion. After daylight we saw many
droves of giianacoes and deer ; and by 8, A. M., we had shot seven gray
foxes and four deer, the flesh of which was not unacceptable after our
previous lent on clams and mullet. AVe now resumed our search for die-
woods, but could discover nothing but inferior kinds of fustic and red-
wood, some specimens of which I caused to be conveyed to the boats.

May IStli. — At 9, A. M., being convinced that any further attempts
to discover valuable die-woods on the banks of this river would prove
fruitless, we gave up the pursuit, and embarked in our boats to return to
ehe vessel. We descended the river leisurely, gliding down with the

94 \ RETURN TO THE WASP. [1823.

current, and stopping occasionally in some beautiful valley or varie-
gated grove, to shoot foxes, birds, and deer. We arrived at Calex-
chem's village at about seven in the evening ; and, after landing the old
chief, with many thanks and some trifling presents, we proceeded
about ten miles down the bay ; when at 10, P. iM., we landed near the
mouth of a fresh-water river on the north shore.

After cooking part of our venison, and making some bread coffee,
we all partook of a hearty supper. As it was now raining severely,
we were obliged to pitch our tent, which was never done in fair
weather. About midnight the watch was set, and the rest turned in,
soon forgetting their fatigues and wet jackets in dreams of home, and
those rural scenes which smiling INIay was at this moment decorating
in all the charms of nature, at the distance of six thousand miles from
the sleepers.

3Iai/ I4:th. — At daylight I found the wind blowing a strong breeze
from the south-east, and as we could make but little headway in pull-
ing to windward with the tide against us, I ordered the men to prepare
themselves for hunting ; and after breakfast we all started in pursuit of
game of any kind that could be found. It was 5, P. M., when we re-
turned, having strayed many miles into the countiy ; and the result of
our sport was five deer, three foxes, and a number of birds of differ-
ent kinds. During this excursion I paid more attention to the qualities
of timber than to the duties of a sportsman. I found the same kinds
of trees here that I examined at Port Famine, and the wild-celery,
scurvy-grass. Sic. were shooting into seed in almost every direction.
What marks of Divine wisdom are to be seen in every thing ! The
bane and antidote, if not placed side by side, are generally found
within hailing distance. High southern latitudes are thought to pro-
duce the scurvy on board of ships, and the same latitudes produce
on land the best possible antidotes to the disease, in the greatest
abundance.

Our sportsmen were all fatigued and hungry, and therefore enjoyed
a good supper and a night's repose with the greater zest. At 2, A. M.,
I found that the wind had changed to the westward, and produced fair
weather ; I therefore called upon all hands to turn out, and prepare for
a cruise towards the entrance of the sound.

• il/«y 15^A. — At 3, A. M., the tent was struck, the remainder of our
game put on board the boats, and every thing in readiness for a start.
We passed do^vn the north shore with a gentle breeze from the west-
ward, frequently landing in some charming valley or waving forest, to
enjoy the scene and search for die-woods, but always without success.
We reached the Wasp at 9, P. M., finding every thing in the same order
as when we left it. I kept our friend Cheleule and his companions on
board during the night ; and the next morning, after giving them a good
breakfast, and many little presents of high value in their estimation, I
set them on shore at 8, A. M., where Cheleule was received by^his
people with the strongest demonstrations of joy. On taking leave of
the old chief I expressed a wish to take one of his sons with me to the
United States, promising to bring him back again in about two years.
The father consented without hesitation, and presented me one of his

May.] NATIVES OF MAGELLAN'S STRAIT. 95

boys on the spot, who seemed much rejoiced on the occasion, and
after receiving the farewell embraces of his parents, went on board
•with the most cheerfid alacrhy. I immediately had him clothed, and
he expressed much satisfaction in being placed mider my care and
protection. 1

It being now calm, we could not get under way, and the consequence
was that we had a great number of visiters to see and take leave of
my young savage protege. This appeared to affect him, and he evinced
more sensibility on the occasion than I had amicipated, as the savage
character has never been distinguished for a vivid expression of feeling.

May I6th. — At 7, A.M., a light breeze sprang up from the west-
south-west, when w^e immediately got under way, and commenced ply-
ing to the south-west, to get hold of the Fuegian shore. Before we
had proceeded far, the mother of yomig Cheleule came alongside to
take a final leave of her darling boy. This was too much for the poor
fellow : he burst into a paroxysm of tears as soon as his mother left
the vessel, and earnestly begged me to let him go on shore with her.
Perceiving this to be the wish of both, and that they were much af-
fected, I recalled the old woman, and restored her son to her, which
rendered both of them extremely happy. As a testimony of his grati-
tude the youth begged me to accept of his dog, which he set great
store by, it being a present from his father. This dog was remarkable
for his cunning and sagacity, resembling a fox both in form and dispo-
sition. The head, in particular, bespeaks its relationship to that animal.
It is a litde larger than our terrier, and is the only canine breed that I
saw among these natives.

The dress of this people, which is the same in both sexes, is formed of
the skins of the sea-otter, guanaco, fox, deer, or seal, sewed together with
the animal's sinews, entrails, or thongs cut from the skins, m the form
of a blanket. This is thrown over the shoulders, and tied under the chin ;
the lower part being wrapped round the body like a cloak. Both sexes
paint their faces in such a maimer as to give them a hideous expres-
sion, and yet I scarcely saw two of them alike. Some were painted red,
with a large black circle round each eye ; others were distinguished by
horizontal streaks across the face of alternate black and white. -■- How-
ever grotesque they appeared to us, they evidently prided themselves
on this display of fashion and taste. Every one of them with whom I
had any intercourse, was as ready to give as to receive trifling presents,
if I expressed a wish to that effect. From these mutual kindnesses,
however, they very soon caught the idea of quid pro quo, and became
adepts in the science of trade. But I never detected one of them in
the act of stealing to the value of a nail, either from the vessel or the
boats ; nor did I see or hear of a single quarrel or contention among
themselves.

' Their canoes display much ingenuity and mechanical contrivance.
They are constructed of bark peeled from the entire trunk of a large
tree resembling our white birch, which grows here in great abundance.
Three such pieces will form an entire canoe, from twelve to eighteen
feet in length, two feet in de])th, and two feet six inches in breadth at
the centre, or widest part. One piece forms the bottom, and two the

96 NATIVES OF MAGELLAN'S STRAIT. [1823.

sides, neatly sewed together with leather thongs or the sinews of
animals. The ribs are generally made of slender branches or saplings,
split in the centre as coopers do their hoop-poles. These are bent
into a semicircle with the flat side outwards, and fastened to the inside
of the canoe, which is thus kept distended to its proper shape, and
rendered sufficiently strong. The gunwales are formed of the same
material, sewed on in the same manner.

Each of these boats is commonly divided into six distinct compart-
ments : viz. the first contains their fishing tackle and apparatus ; the
second is occupied by the women, who handle the forward paddles ;
the third is their fireplace, having a hearth of sand;' the fourth is the
well-room, or place for bailing ; the fifth contains the men, who ply the
stern paddles ; and the sixth is the place where their spears, bows and
arrows, &c. are carefully deposited. In the management of these frail
barks, skill and dexterity are more requisite than physical strength ;
and yet they are made to ply to windward at a surprising rate. Some
of them are made more square, but are not so easily managed, nor do
they move so swiftly.

Besides the weapons already mentioned, the sling is much used by
this people, and with such effect, that the descendants of Benjamin
ought no longer to boast of their left-handed progenitors. It is made
of the sea-otter's skin, of the usual form, and nearly three feet in length.
Their spear-heads are made of hard bone, about six inches long, well
pointed, with a barb on each side about three inches from the point.
These are attached to straight poles, smoothly finished, and about twelve
feet in length. This weapon, which they use in taking seals and sea-
otters, is thrown, like the ancient javelin, from a level with the eye,
duly balanced in the right hand, and seldom fails of its intended effect.
Their bows are made of an elastic wood, which is hard and susceptible
of a high polish. They are generally about four feet in length, strung
with slips of the otter-skin or plaited sinews. The arrows are made
of finely polished wood of great hardness, pointed with a sharp flint of
triangular shape, and are about three feet in length. i

The arms of these Indians, however, are no certain indication of their
being a warlike people ; my own impression is decidedly that they are
not, their habits and manners being timid and pacific. The weapons just
described are rather their tools of trade by which they procure a liveli-
hood, the flood and the forest being their principal resources for food,
which generally consists of shellfish, seal flesh and blubber, sea-otters,
shags, and a few wild animals that inhabit the forests, as I have before
mentioned. They keep their game until it is nearly putrid before they
eat it. j

Their natural complexion is a pale yellow, inclining to copper-
colour, as can easily be ascertained by those parts of their bodies which
are not daubed over with paints of different colours. I found no diffi-
culty in conversmg with them by signs, though whenever they were at
a loss for my meaning, they invariably imitated my motions and
repeated my words, which rendered our intercourse somewhat tedious.
It must be admitted that they are sadly deficient in the virtue of per-
sonal cleanliness ; but not so " horribly offensive and loathsome" as

May.] PACIFIC OCEAN. 97

has been represented by Cordova and others. In ahiiost every respect,
however, they are a race of people far inferior to the Patagonians, and
not much less degraded than the natives of Terra del Fuego, whom
all navigators unite in pronouncing the most wretched race of mortals
on earth.

Though the women are of much smaller size than the men, the
former are compelled to do all the labour and drudgery. They build
the wigwams, gather the shellfish, paddle the canoes, <fcc., while the
men either sit at their ease, or enjoy the pleasures of the chase. The
men, however, occasionally evince considerable fondness for their wives
and children. On the whole, I became somewhat interested in this
apparently wretched race, especially M'hen I reflected on the probability
of their ancestors having been driven from more genial climes to this
mountainous region by the barbarity of strangers, who professed to be
patterns for the human race in civilization and religion. If such be
the fact, I wish these poor Indians might be informed that the iniquity
of their invaders has been severely visited on their own children, until
most of them, at the present moment, are more indolent, quite as filthy,
almost as ignorant, and far less innocent than the natives of Magellan's
Strait. Who shall say that the latter are not as much in the keeping
of the Deity as the former ?

May 17 ik. — We left Indian Sound on Friday, the 16th, at seveu
o'clock, A. M., as before stated, and laid our course across the strait
towards the Land of Fire. On the following day, at seven, P. M., we
ivere close in with the southern shore, when the wind hauled round to
the south-south-west. Having relinquished the hope of finding any
die- woods in this strait, qjthough there are other woods of great value,
I concluded to make the best of our way to the Pacific Ocean. We
had now a fine breeze off-shore, and light snov^^-squalls during the
night. At daylight we were about five miles to the eastward of Cape
Pillar, which forms the north-western extremity of Terra del Fuego,
in the Pacific Ocean.

3Iai/ I8th. — At one o'clock, P. M., we landed on the Four Evan-
gelists, where we took one himdred and twenty-seven fur-seals. At
six, P. M., we were fairly clear of the strait, and floating on the bosom
of that immense ocean which stretches between America and Asia in
one direction, and the antarctic circle and Beehring's Strait in
another. We now commenced examining the Pacific coast to the north
of Cape Victory, which is the northern boundary of the western en-
trance of Magellan's Strait. I have already stated that the southern
botmdary of this entrance is Cape Pillar, lying south-south-east from
Cape Victory, distant eight leagues. About midway between these
two capes are four small islands, or rocks, called the Four Evangehsts,
just mentioned. Three of these are low, but the fourth is moderately
high, in appearance resembling a hay-stack. These islands lie in lat.
52° 34' S., long. 75^ 8' W. The passages between them and the last-
mentioned cap°es are easy and free from danger. Variation per azi-
•muth 23^ 47' easterly. Cape Victory is in lat. 52° 24' S., long.
75° 3' W. ' G

98 COAST ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN. [1823

CHAPTER YIL

Commence surveying the Western Coast of South Ajnerica — Capes St. Isabel and
St. Lucia — Strait of Conception — Cape St. .Tago — St. Martin's Island — Byers's
Strait — Island of Madre de Dios — Capes Throe Points and Corso — Campana
Channel and Island — Port St. Barbara — Cape Nixon — Guayaneco Islands —
Interview v.'ith a tribe of Indians called the Caucaes — A brief Description of
these Natives — The Fourth of July — The Wasp in a perilous Situation on a
Rock — Damages repaired — Anchors converted into Rudder Irons — Set Sail for
JVIocha Island — Obtain fresh Provisions — Island of Santa Maria.

From Cape Victory, about thirty-five miles, on a north-west-half-
liorth course, lies Cape Isabel ; and eight miles beyond that, on a north-
"vvest-half-west course, is a point of land forming the north boundary
of a strait which penetrates eastwardly through an archipelago of small
islands, wliich have never been accurately surveyed. "We continued
following the coast, or rather the western shores of a chain of islands
formincr the Gulf of Trinidad, which unites with iVIaffellan's Strait at
Cape Tamer. Our boats were constantly close in shore, searching
every mile of the coast for seals, and ascertaining the character of the
shores, depth of water, &lc. There were very few fur seals to be
found, however.

Maij 2(jth. — At two, P. jNI., we arrived at Cape St. Lucia, in lat.
51° 25' S., long. 75^ 33' W. In the direction of north-north-west-
half-west from this cape lies St. Jago, a point of land forming the
southern extremity of St. Martin's Island, lat. 50^ 53' S., long. 75° 35'
W. Between this and St. Lucia is a numerous cluster of islands,
with deep water all around them. There are many reefs and sunken
rocks on the seaboard, and also among these islands, but tlmr presence
is always indicated by kelp, or rock-weed, which gives sufficient
warning. They afibrd many excellent harbours, and ships may sail
among them in the daytime with perfect safety, only taking care to
steer clear of the kelp. They also furnish wood and water in abun-
dance, and their shores are much frequented by hair-seals. For
repairing vessels they furnish every facility, as timber of almost any
description can be had here with very little trouble, and the natives
seldom visit these islands. Ships may pass from Magellan's Strait
within all these islands by entering tlie sound at Cape Tamer, and
they will find a safe and easy passage to the Gulf of Trinidad, a dis-
tance of seventy leagues, all the M'ay sheltered from the sea by the
unbroken chain of islands which gem this part of the coast, and prevent
the surge from the Pacific reaching the shore of the continent. The
country on both sides of this sound is covered with the finest ship-
timber* in the world, and the soil is capable of producing any thing
congenial to the climate. The shores are frequented by sea otters,
while the valleys, plains, and forests abound \\ith deer, guanacoes,

June.] COAST OX THE PACIFIC OCEAX. 99

foxes, and a number of other quadrupeds of different species. Ths
groves are tenanted by a great variety of birds of the most beautiful
plumage, and tlie gently undulating plains are clothed A^ith a rich ver-
dure, gayly enamelled with a variety of flowers.

June 2d. — AYe arrived at Eyers's Strait (so called in honour of one
of our owners), which separates the island of St. Martin from that of
La ]Madre de Dios. A ship of any size may pass through this strait
with ease and safety, as it is clear of danger. On the north shore are
two fine harbours, and there is another which is very commodious on
the south-east part of the island of St. jMartin, about five miles from
Cape St. Jago. By following the eastern shore of St. Jago, which
runs in a north-east direction, this port is easily found. The entrance
is plain, and the course of the channel is north-west for about two miles,
forming a circular basin completely land-locked by a few small islands
at its entrance. The depth of water in going in is ten fathoms ; and
within the basin from five to fifteen fathoms, mud and clay bottom.
Both water and wood can be procured here with the greatest ease,
and a ship may heave-out with perfect safety on the w^est side of the
basin.

June \2tli. — On leaving the little strait of Byers, we proceeded to
examine the western shore of the island La Madre de Dios, keeping
■the boats along-shore for that express purpose, until we arrived at Cape
Three Points, in lat. 49° 48' S., long. 75° 50' W. This Avas on
Thursday, the 12th of June. Here we found the variation 19° 56'
easterly, per azimuth.

About twenty miles north-by-west-half-west from Cape Three Points
is Cape Corso, projecting from the continent, and between these two
capes is the entrance to the Gulf of Trinidad. On the north and south
sides of the cape last named are several excellent harbours, and within
the gulf, about fifteen miles south-east of Cape Corso, is one of the
finest I have ever seen, running into the mainland, and sheltered by a
small round island, of moderate elevation, which lies in front of the
entrance. A ship may pass on either side of this island within a
cable's length, and then choose her own anchorage either on the east
or west side of the basm, in from four to twenty fathoms of water, clay
bottom.

The harbour on the north side of Cape Corso is about eighteen miles
from its point, in the direction of north-north-east-half-east, being a
spacious bay, sheltered from all winds, and sufficiently capacious to
moor one hundred ships of the line. The depth of water at its entrance
is forty fathoms ; but on the v/est and south-west side of the bay are
found from five to twenty fathoms, sand and mud bottom.

The island of La Madre de Dios, of which Cape Three Points is
the north-western extremity, terminates that chain of islands which
forms the Sound or Gulf of Trinidad ; that extensive channel or strait
which, as before stated, runs in a southerly direction to the Strait of
Magellan, with which it unites at Cape Tamer. Its northern entrance
is between Cape Corso on the main, and Cape Three Points on the
island of La Madre de Dios. This passage, throughout, abounds with
good harbours and excellent places of shelter. Its eastern side, wlxich

200 THE CAUCAES INDIANS. [1823

is the continental shore, skirts a fine fertile country, not destitute of
inhabitants ; but I believe it has never been visited with reference to
commercial objects.

June 20tli. — Having critically inspected the main coast on the north
side of Cape Corso, in the Campana Channel, we landed on the island
of Campana on Friday, the 20th of June, at four, P. M. After taking
a few fur-seals on the south cape of this island, we proceeded along
its western shore, keephig the boats abreast of the vessel, close in to
the land, searching occasionally for fur-seals, of which we discovered
ver}' few.

June 26th. — On Thursday we arrived at Port St. Barbara, on the
extreme north point of Campana Island. This is a safe and convenient
harbour, without the least danger or difficulty in entering, as you carry
in seven fathoms of water, and anchor in from three to nine ; the bot-
tom consisting of mud, sand, and clay. The lagoon runs in south-
half-west, about four miles, and the west side affords the best anchorage.
The entrance of this port is in lat. 48° 7' S., long. 75*^ 8' AV. ; varia-
tion per azimuth 18° 24' easterly.

The extreme south point of this island, where we first landed, is
called Cape M'Intyre ; and twelve leagues farther north is Cape Nixon,
■which we so named in honour of two of our owners. It has a bold
hluff shore of ragged rocks, bearing north-west-by-north from the
former. The course from Cape Nixon to Cape St. Barbara is north-
half-westi

Seventeen leagues north of the last-mentioned cape are the Gua)^-
aneco Islands ; a group, of which the north point is in lat. 47° 31' S.,
long. 75° 4' W. The course from St. Barbara, north-by-west, dis-
tant about twelve leagues. Among this cluster are many fine har-
bours ; the land is low, and very fertile, clothed with heavy timber,
grass, clover, &c. The islands which form the north part of this
group are much frequented by hair-seals. A variety of scale and
shell-fish also may be had here with more sport than labour.

On one of these islands -we had an interview with the Caucaes
tribe, who had come hither from the continent on a fishing excursion.
These Indians have a very dark, swarthy complexion, are of middling
stature, and extremely courteous in their demeanour to strangers.
Their dress and general appearance are similar to those of the Poyas,
a number of whom we saw at a distance in the Gulf of Trinidad, and
ivhose location is on the continent, in lat. 50" 0' S. We also saw,
under similar circumstances, at Cape Corso, some of the Huilles, who
reside in about the forty-eighth degree of south latitude. These three
distinct tribes, I have no doubt, have all descended from one common
stock, — their dress, canoes, and occupations being the same.

AVith the character, maimers, customs, and habits of the Caucaes
we had a better opportunity of becoming acquainted. Their dress is
made of the same materials as that of the Indians on the Strait of
Magellan ; but the shape of it is more in the fashion of the eastern
Patagonians. The skins are sewed together in the form of a large
.square blanket, in the centre of which is a hole just large enough for
the head to pass through. This cloak or mantle they call poncho*

July.] THE CAUCAES L\DIAXS. 101

Their noses are flat, and their eyes deeply sunli into their heads, as
if shrinking from the smoke in which they hve and breathe for more
than half the year. Their hair is long, coarse, and black, hanging
down over their shoulders, and partially covering their faces. As
usual among savages, the women perform all the labour, which con-
sists principally in diving for sea-eggs, and cooking the same for the
lazy men, for whom they also make clothing and erect wigwams.

The women are very expert divers, and take the water in a depth
of from two to four fathoms. There are commonly five or six of
them in one canoe when engaged in these fishing parties. When
they have paddled to a spot where the sea-eggs are plenty, one of
them takes a basket in her hand and dives to the bottom, where she
sometimes remains an astonishing length of time. When her basket
is filled, she rises to the surface, deposites her prize in the canoe, and
descends again in the same manner five or six times : after which
she resumes her place in the canoe, while one of her companions in
her turn performs the same feat ; and so on, one after another, until
each one has performed her share of the labour.

When their canoe is sufficiently well freighted, they paddle to the
shore, discharge their cargo, haul up their boats, and wash them out,
before they attempt to approach the fire, where their indolent husbands
are all this time seated, toasting their shins. AVhen it is recollected
that we saw all this performed in the month of June, in the middle of
a southern winter, in a high latitude, the reader will naturally conclude
that these females are not very tenderly treated by the sex whom
Heaven intended for their protectors. |

June 30th. — On Monday, the 30th, we anchored on the north-east
side of the Guayaneco Islands, in a very fine harbour, sheltered from,
all winds, and affording a depth of water from fifteen to four fathoms, —
mud and clay bottom. This we called Byers's Harbour, in honour of i
James Byers, Esq., of New-York, one of the owners of the Wasp, j

This day v;as the anniversary of our leaving New-York ; one year
having elapsed, and our voyage not yet half-accomplished. In all
this period we had not received a word of intelligence from home, not
having spoken a single vessel from the United States. •

July \st. — On Tuesday, the 1st day of July, I sent the boats to ex-
amine the shores around the Gulf of Penas, with orders to follow the
coast as far as the isthmus of Ofqui, and there remain until they saw
the vessel. On the two following days the wind was light, attended
with much rain.

July 4:th. — On Friday, the 4th, the weather cleared ofi', and after
firing a salute under the star-spangled banner in honour of the day, we
got under way at one P. M., and steered to the north-east, whh the
wind from west-north-west, in search of the boats. At six P. M. the
wind began to blow fresh, attended with light rain. Seeing nothing
of the boats, and the weather having every appearance of an ap-
proaching gale, I determined on making a harbour if possible, as it
was not safe to venture cruising about among the numerous rocks and
.. shoals at the head of the bay in a dark and stormy night. Having,
before the weather came on thick, observed an opening in the land at

102 THE WASP ON A ROCK. [1823.-

the head of the bay, I had the precaution to take the bearings of it^
and shaped my course for its entrance, keeping a man in each of the
main chains with hand-leads, and orders to throw as fast as possible.

When we approached the entrance of the lagoon I stationed my-
self at the mast-head to look out for sunken rocks. At eight P. M.
ive had entered the chops of the harbour, running under easy sail, and
linding no bottom with fifteen f\uhoms of line. I could see the ap-
pearance of a fine haven bending in to the north, and no danger in
sight. But just as we were doubling round the north point, in tolera-
bly smooth water, the vessel struck on a rock in the middle of the-
passage, and the shock of the concussion had nearly precipitated me
from the mast-head.

Thus brought up, all standing, in such a place and on such a night,
I instantly perceived that the situation of the little Wasp was not the
most enviable in the world. By the time that I had reached the deck,
and the sails were lowered, I found that the swell, w^hich was heaving
into the harbour, had nearly hove the vessel over the rock. On sound-
ing over the bows I found six fathoms of water, but on going aft I
discovered that the rudder was unhung.

We immediately proceeded to carry out an anchor with the small
stern boat, and fifty fathoms of cable ; but on heaving at tlie windlass
a few minutes, it was evident that the anchor came home. We there-
fore ceased heaving, and carried out a second anchor, with seventy
fathoms of cable. Both cables were then taken to the windlass, and
after heaving for about fifteen minutes the vessel slid over the rock ;
and when we had hove her to her anchors, we found twenty-five
fathoms of water imder her stern. Having raised the best bower to
the bows, and hove the small bower short apeak, we set the foresail
and jib, then tripped the anchor, and in a short time were safely
moored in seven fathoms of water, clay ground, and sheltered from
all winds.

At four A. iNI. we got the rudder on deck, and found that both,
pintles were broken off close to the timher ; but ascertaining, at day-
light, that the gudgeons were uninjured, we prepared to fit new pindes
to the rudder. This we effected by taking two boat-anchors, and
■cutting one fluke from each, and the palm from the remaining fluke.
The ring-end was then severed from each shank ; and the latter, after
boring for the purpose, was driven into the rudder, Mith the palmless
fluke pointing dov/nwards, as a substitute for a pintle. These were
then shipped into the copper gudgeons on the stern-post, where they
traversed with ease and accuracy.

Juhj 5th. — The foregoing process of supplying rudder pintles was
not the work of a moment — it being about five o'clock P. J\I. before
the rudder was restored to its original position, and the pintles properly
shipped in the gudgeons ; where, to all appearance, every part was as
strong as ever. Bv this time the wind had hauled to the west-south-
ivest, and blew a smart gale, w^hich continued for two days.

Jidi/ ISth. — On Tuesday, the 8th, the wind died away to a perfect
calm, with pleasant weather, and so continued for nearly two days
longer. AVe then took a light breeze from the south, and resumed our

July.] ISLAM) OF LA MOCHA. 103

search for the boats, which we fell in with on Sunday the 13th, on the
south-east side of the peninsula of Tres Montes, or Three Mountains.
They had found many hair-seals, but very few of the fur kind.

July I6th. — After passing through Rogers's Strait, which is formed
by Wager Island on the south, and the peninsula before mentioned on
the north, we took our leave of the Gulf of Penas at two P. M., and
made the best of our vray for the island of La Mocha, to procure
fresh provisions. I regretted that it was not in my power to continue
the examination of this coast at that time ; but the new-fashioned pin-
tles of our rudder began to show symptoms of instability, and I now
saw the necessity of hastening to tlie tirst port, where they could be
replaced by copper ones, of proper construction. I shall therefore
refer the reader to the voyage of 182-1, 1825, and 1826, vrhich I
made in the schooner Tartar, of New- York, to the North and South
Pacitic Oceans, it beinsf the second of these "Four Vovages :" when
I resumed the examination of this coast, beginning at Point Taitao-
haohuon, from which I now took my departure for the island of La-
Mocha, for the reasons just stated.

At eleven A. M. we shaped our course accordingly, leaving Point
Taitaohaohuon bearing south-east-by-east, distant four leagues, with a
line breeze from the south-west, and fair weather. We pursued a.
northerly course, with variable winds, sometimes interrupted by calms^
for five days.

Jul)/ 22(1. — On Tuesday morning, the 22d day of July, we arrived at
the island of La Mocha, at seven A. M. I immediatelv sent the boats
on shore in search of wild hogs. This island is in lat. 38^ 21^ S.,
long. 74° 5' W. Variation per azimuth, at three P. M., 17° 22'
easterly. It is not large in circumference, but so much elevated that
it can be seen, in clear w-eather, at the distance of forty miles. In
approaching the land the top of the island appears rugged and broken ;
but its north-west part gradually descends to a low, sandy, level point.
Its southern point terminates in a more abrupt manner, and a ledge of
small rocks rtms from it, some of which are on a level with the water,
while others ascend boldly. Breakers extend off to the westward
about five miles. On the north side of Mocha the anchorage is
good, with the w^mds from west-north-west, round by the west to the
south-east.

Wood and water may be procured at this island in abundance.
There are also plenty of wild horses, hogs, and various kinds of birds.
Wild celer}" grows here in great profusion, together with other anti-
scorbutic vegetables.

This island is shuated about five leagues from the coast of the
main, the channel between them being perfectly safe, with from fifteea
to twenty-five fathoms of water. The mainland of Chili is moderately
elevated near the seacoast abreast of Mocha. The island is about
fifteen miles in circumference, and was formerly inhabited by Indians
from the continent ; but there are now no persons to be found on it,
excepting a few natives from the main coast, M'ho come here for the
purpose of taking hair-seals, which are valuable to them for the

104 ISLAND OF SANTA MARIA. [1823.

skins and the oil. These animals abound on the small keys at the
south side of Mocha.

July 23f/. — At six P. M. the boats returned, with thirteen fine v.ild
liogs, and a great number of small birds. Having hoisted up the
boats, we filled away, and steered for the port of Conception, with a
line breeze from south-south-west, and fair weather. As our course
lay to the north, we passed the island of Santa Maria, in lat. 37^ 3'
S., long. 72^ 38' W. This island is of a triangular shape, about
seven miles in length, from north to south, and three miles and a half
in breadth, from east to west. To the north-east, however, it extends
out in a long narrow point, with a rocky reef running from its ex-
tremity. It lies near the maiii, on the north side of an abrupt angle
in the coast, forming a channel to the rivers Laran-Pangue and Lara-
t^uete. A rocky islet lies off the north-west point of Santa INIaria ;
but on the eastern side there is good anchorage, well sheltered. In
running in for the anchorage, however, it will be proper to give the
southern point of the island a good berth, and the same precaution is
required in passing the north-east point, — a rocky reef extending some
distance from each.

In sailing into Santa Maria Bay, it is best to fall in to the southward
of the island. In approaching the land a rocky head becomes visible,
in lat. 37° 6' S. This is the south-east head of the island, and not
very high. It is necessary to bring this head to bear north, and then
to run for the anchorage ; thus avoiding some sunken rocks which lie
to the south-south-west of this head. A ship must not approach this
head nearer than one mile, until it is brought to bear west, at which
time she will be past a small reef M'liich lies to the south-east of it.
She may then haul into the bay until the water lessens to five fathoms,
sandy bottom, M'hen she may choose her ground from seven to five.
The best anchorage, however, is on the south-west side, near the head
of the bay.

I have said that this island is of a triangular shape ; but its longest
side is sufficiently concave to give it the appearance of an irregular
crescent, with both points bending to the eastward ; the north point,
however, extends much farther east than the south point. The whole
bay has a sandy bottom, and regular soundings ; and by proper atten-
tion to the lead, a ship may beat into this harbour by night with as
much safety as by day. Off the north-east point the reef runs out
about half a mile ; and ships falling in to the leeward, by giving this
reef a good berth, will find the northern passage equally safe with the
southern.

There is a small bay on the north side of the island, in which I
should always advise ships to anchor, at any time from the month of
September to the following May ; as during that period the wind on
tins coast blows almost constantly from the south. Indeed, for about
eight months of the year, it may properly be called the southerly trade-
wind. Consequently, ships bound to any ports along the coast of
Chili or Peru should always fall in with the land to the windward of
their destined port.

Water and wood can be procured in this bay with great convenience

July.] ISLAND OF SANTA MARIA. 105

near the centre of the concave shore, which, from the south head to the
watering-place, is a high steep bank ; but from thence to the north-
east point, it is a low sandy beach. Thus, all around the island, the
shore in some places is a sandy beach, while in other places it is iron-
bound, with steep banks from one to two hundred feet above the level
of the sea, and as perpendicular as the Hudson Palisades.

JMany years ago the island of Santa JNIaria was stocked with black-
cattle and several other kinds of animals ; and a small settlement of
Spaniards existed here previous to the last war between Spain and
England, who cultivated various kinds of fruit trees and garden vege-
tables. But during the war they found themselves annoyed by the
English cruisers, who made the island a place of rendezvous, and
finally abandoned the settlement. I have it from pretty good authority,
however, that the Enohsh commanders never took or allowed to be
taken from them any thing but what was liberally paid for in specie.

The little colony have left behind them many memorials of their taste
and industry. Among these I have since seen a number of apple-trees
in good condition ; several kinds of garden herbs, such as balm, sage,
saffron, and all kinds of mint ; likewise rose-bushes, currants, goose-
berries, &LC. The soil is very rich, and of easy cultivation, being level
and clear of stones, "which is the case indeed M'ith most of the tillage-
land all along this coast. This island would produce every kind of
vegetables, if properly cultivated. The air is remarkably pure, the
atmosphere generally serene, the chmate temperate, and the prospects
delightful.

The island of Santa Maria is about four leagues in circumference,
and the southern extremity is a great resort for shags, which come on
shore in the evening to roost for the night, and repair to the sea again
in the morning in search of food. I have seen more than two thousand
of these birds laying their course for the ocean before sunrise, and have
watched their return at sunset in the evening. Their eggs are verv
fine eating, and one hundred barrels of them, in the proper season, may
be collected in a very short time. Gulls' eoo^s also can be gathered
in great abundance on the north-east part of the island, and they are
equally palatable. There are various other kinds of birds on this
island, among which I have noticed ducks, teal, eagles, hav\'ks, turkey-
buzzards, and curlews of two different sorts. Besides these, there are
many small beach and land-birds. Good fish may also be caught here
with hook and line or with a seine, and right whales frequent the bay
in the calving season. It is likewise a great resort for hair-seals.

On the main opposite this island, in the direction of east-south-east,
is a beautiful river, the banks of which are very fertile, abounding with
many kinds of fruits that are common in North America ; among these
are peaches and pears, of a quality far superior to ours. On the north
side of this river, which is called Toolvool, once stood the little town
of Arruco, which was burnt by the pirate Benavides in 1821 . Previous
to this wanton outrage, ships lying under the island were usually sup-
plied with refreshments from this town at a very low rate, and in any
quantity that might be desired, 'i'he articles then obtained here by
sending the boats were, bullocks, sheep, hogs, goats, fowls, apples.

106 I'ORT TALCAGUAXO. [1821.

pears, peaches, potatoes, cabbages, pumpkins, onions, and all kinds
of garden-stuir. The distance Ironi the island to the river is about
ten miles.

Seven leagues to the northward of the island of Santa Maria are the
Paps of Biobio, which become visible by the lime a ship is abreast of
the island, forming a very conspicuous and useful landmark in entering
the port of Conception, in the river Biobio. These remarkable hills
are thus named from their peculiar shape, and their appearance does
not vary much in whatever direction they are seen from the ofFing.
They rise from a sort of promontory on the north side of the river, on
which side also stands the city of Conception.

July %ith. — On Thursday, the 24th, we entered the Bay of Concep-
tion, and at eleven A. M. anchored in the port of Talcaguano, at the
south-west part of the bay, in three fathoms of water, mud and clay
bottom. This place is about seven miles north of the city of JMocha,
or New Conception, and the harbour is sheltered from the westward
by an elevated peninsula of the same name. The entrance to this
port may be easily known by the island of Quiriquina, which is some-
what lower than the adjacent continent. Ships may pass on either
side of this island, but the eastern passage is the safest and the widest.
The entrance is in latitude 36° 36' S., longitude 73° 12' W.

This is one of the most commodious ports in the world : the water
within the bay is very smooth, with scarcely any current, and the tide
flows about six feet : the best anchorage is before the village of Tal-
caguano, on the south-west side of the bay. The surrounding country
is extremely pleasant, and seldom troubled by the blasts of winter.
At this place the Andes are not visible from the anchorage, the view
being intercepted by the Sierra Belinda, a range of mountains,' abound-
ing with silver-mines, among which the river Biobio takes its rise, and
runs nearly due west to the Bay of Conception. At night, however, a
flickering glimmer on the eastern sky, accompanied with some vivid
flashes, bears testimony that the Chilian volcanoes are still in full blast,
there being twelve or fourteen of them in a state of constant eruption,
besides several others which discharge smoke at intervals. The
mouth of the river is about one mile across, and its sands are so richly
mingled with gold that about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars
worth is collected annuall}^ and placed in the national depdt at the
new city of ^locha, or New Conception, about twelve miles from
the sea.

July.] MOCHA, OR NEW COXCEPTIOX i07

CHAPTER VIII.

Bay of Conception and Port of Talcaguano — City of Mocha, or Xew Conception
— The River Biobio — Soil, Climate, and Xatural Productions — Valparaiso Bay
and City — Kindness of the American Consul, Mr. Kocran — Santiago, or St.
Jago — Directions for entering the Harbour of Valparaiso — Climate, Vvlnds,
&c. — Valparaiso destroyed by an Earthquake — Amiable Character of Mr. Ho-
gan — Arrive at Port Coquimbo — Captain Hutchins, of Baltimore — Heave down
the Wasp to repair Damages — Directions for entering the Port of Coquimbo —
Description of the Town — Caution to Shipmasters — Villanous Attempt at Impo-
sition — Sail from Coquimbo — Pursued by an armed Force, which soon retreats
— Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix — An Adventure promised in the next
Chapter.

The Bay of Conception has long been celebrated for its natural
beauties and maritime conveniences : there are few that can rank with
it in any part of the world ; as it is one of those v/hich nature con-
trived in her happiest mood, and at a moment when she felt an extra-
ordinary interest in the welfare of mariners. Talcaguano is the prin-
cipal port in this bay, and is much the most frequented, — as ships that
anchor here have not only better ground than can be found in any other
port, but they are also better sheltered from the north wind, which is
the only one that can breathe into this calm retreat. Every kind of
refreshment can be obtained at this village in the greatest abundance,
including the choicest fruits, and there is every facility for wooding and
vaterino-.

This town was built in consequence of the city of Conception being
destroyed by an earthquake in 1751 ; which disaster also gave rise to
the city of Mocha, or New Conception, mentioned at the conclusion
of the last chapter, which stands on the north bank of the River Biobio,
and was peopled by inhabitants who removed from the old city of Con-
ception. This is a depot for the silver found in the mines of Nimino,
in the mountains Sierra Belinda, and also for the gold found among
the sands of several rivers, particularly Biobio.

Two years after the earthquake of 1751 had destroyed the old city
of Conception, the inhabitants selected a site for a new town in the
beautiful valley of jNIocha, at about a league's distance from the former :
this is called ^locha, or New Conception : the population is variously
estimated at from ten to thirteen thousand souls. The city covers a
considerable extent of ground, in consequence of the houses being only
one story high, a necessary precaution to guard against earthquakes,
to which the whole country is subject. The Indians have several
times attacked the city with a numerous force ; and though always
repulsed, they seldom retired without doing much damage.

The River Biobio (or Viovio) has its source among the silver-mines
in the moimtains Sierra Belluda, before mentioned ; and receives the
tributary streams of Huequeen and Tolpan before it reaches Santa Fe,

108 PKODUCTIOXS OF CHILI. [1823.

where it first becomes navigable, and from \vhence to its mouth, a
distance of thirty-three leagues, its course is nearly due west.

The soil of Chili, and this part of it in particular, is celebrated for
its fertility, its average increase being sixty to one. The plains are
covered with innumerable flocks, which multiply almost in the same
proportion. All the metals, earths, and precious stones are found in
abundance among the mountains : there are also coal-mines near the
site of the Ibrmer city. The productions of the soil are maize, rye,
barley, pulse, wine, oil, sugar, cotton, and fruits of various kinds.
There are no dangerous or venomous animals in the country, — there
being only one specimen of the serpent genus, and that is a little harm-
less reptile like our garter-snake, and even smaller. The climate is
mild and salubrious ; the nat>y(^ are healthy and robust ; the spring
continues from the latter patt 'of September to December, when the
summer of the southern hemisphere begins.

The mountain-forests are full of lofty trees ; and all the fruits of the
United States, with a great many aromatic shrubs, grow in the valleys.
Chili is said to be the only country in the New World where the culture
of the grape has succeeded to perfection. The apples are of extraor-
dinary size ; and I have seen peaches here nearly as large as those
described by Bonnycastle, who mentions fourteen different kinds of
them. The trees of the forest certainly grow to an immense size ; but
I can hardly credit the story, so often repeated, that a certain mission-
ary made out of a single trunk of one of them a chapel more than
sixty feet in length, including beams, floors, laths, doors, wmdows,
seats, altars, -and two confessionals !

The extensive and fertile plains for which this country is celebrated
are not visible from the coast, as they lie between the two ranges of
mountains before mentioned, — the Sierra Belinda and the Andes. Some
of these vast plains are said to be nearly as high as those of Quito, in
the republic of Peru ; being, in fact, extensive table-lands, far above
the level of the sea.

July 26th. — Finding neither materials nor facilhies to aid me in
repairing the damages which the "Wasp had sustained durhig our year'.s
cruise, I prepared to leave Talcaguano, confident tliat Valparaiso could
furnish every thing of which I stood in need. Accordingly, on Satur-
day, the 26th, at eleven A. M., M'e got under way, and steered once
more in a northerly direction, with a light breeze from south-by-west,
and fair weather. A'alparaiso is about eighty leagues from the Bay
of Conception, and the coast between them runs in the direction of
north-north-east and south-south-west. Our passage was considerably
retarded by northerly winds, so that it was not until the afternoon of
the fifth day that we finally cast anchor in the harbour of Valparaiso,
or the Valley of Paradise— lat. 33= 3' S., long. 71° 42' W. Varia-
tion 15= 41, E.

July d\st, — On Thursday, the 31st, at five, P. M., we anchored in
seven fathoms of water, sand and muddy bottom. I immediately landed,
and repaired to the American consulate, to pay my respects to Mr.
Hogan, the consul-general of the United States, who received me at
his office with that politeness and urbanity of manners which have ever

July.] CITY OF VALPARAISO. 109

characterized this worthy and venerable officer. His family residence
is on the north side of tlie bay, at some distance from liis office, which
is in the principal street of the city.

After introducing myself, and making him acquainted with the situa-
tion of the schooner, together with my own deficiency of funds, he
ofiered to render me every assistance of which I stood in need, and
begged me to draw on him to any amount I pleased. These court-
esies were accepted with as much frankness as they were offered, and
I took my leave of the worthy consul with sentiments of gratitude and
respect, which many subsequent interviews have only tended to heighten
and increase. He was at this time about sixty-five years of age, and
was universally esteemed as one of the worthiest men in the world.

The town or city of Valparaiso, which eight months previous to my
arrival had been almost totally destroyed by an earthquake, Avas now
nearly rebuilt in its original style. The buildings are principally situ-
ated on one irregular street, extending along the base of a steep hill,
or mountain, which overhangs the curvature of the bay, from Point
Angels, on its south-western side, to the Almendral, on its north-eastern
side : the latter is so called from the almond-gardens and olive-groves
which flourish in this quarter ; and in this delightful retreat is the resi-
dence of our venerable consul-general, Michael Hogan, Esq.

From this gentleman I learned that the now splendid city of Valpa-
raiso was very humble and insignificant in its origin ; consisting at first
of a few warehouses merely, in Avhich the merchants of St. Jago, the
capital of Chili, had their goods stored, for the convenience of shipping
them to Callao, in Peru. At this period the only inhabitants of Val-
paraiso were a few servants, left by their respective masters to take
care of these warehouses. In process of time, however, the merchants
themselves, together with several other families, removed hither from
the metropolis, in order to be more conveniently situated for trade ;
since which it has gradually increased, and would still continue to grow
in magnitude as in wealth, were it not so inconveniently situated on
account of the rugged precipices behind it, which prevent its extending
in that direction.

The buildings, as is usual on this coast, where earthquakes are so
frequent, are generally of one story onl}^ made of unburnt brick, with
roofs of red tile ; but being whitewashed, and most of them embellished
\vith shrubbery, they have a neat refreshing appearance, especially to
mariners from a long voyage. Those that stand nearest the water, ar-
ranged along the curvature of the bay, are mostly shops and store-houses,
the greatest number of which are occupied by American and English
merchants, who monopolize a principal part of the trade at this port.
The custom-house is conveniently situated near the water, about the
centre of the curving beach, opposite to which all boats are compelled
to land.

The precipice which overhangs the town, composed of red earth
and rock, is divided in one place by a narrow glen or ravine, having
at its mouth a kind of open square, from which zigzag streets run up
the sides of the hills. The principal streets are Mell paved, the win-
dows glazed, the shops well furnished, and all enlivened by the activity

110 VALPARAISO— ST. JAGO. [1823.

of business. Carts, wagons, liorses, oxen, &:c., all served to remind
me of similar streets in the United States. The market is excellent ;
and, as Mr. Ilogan afterward assured tlie Rev. Mr. Stewart, " what-
ever else may be said of Chili, she can boast as good eating and drink-
ing as can be found in any part of the world."

The capital of Chili, St. Jago, or St. lago, or, as many spell it,
Santiago, is not quite fifty miles from Valparaiso, in tlie direction of
east-by-soulh. Of course it is an inland city, and on that account
more convenient as the metropolis of a great republic. Its situation,
Mr. Hogan informed me, was convenient and delightful ; being on the
side of a fertile plain twenty-four leagues in extent, and bounded on
the other side by amnjestic hill. Its streets are broad and well paved,
crossing each other at right angles ; its gardens are M'ateredby canals,
and the principal square is adorned with a fine fountain. The plain
just mentioned is called Mapocho, through which meanders a river of
the same name ; and rich mines of gold and silver abound among the
adjacent hills.

The city contains about sixty-five thousand inhabitants, .and is plen-
tifully supplied with every convenience and luxury of life. The houses
generally are of one story only, with fiat roofs, surmounted by a para-
pet running along the front, just above the cornice, and the walls are
whitewashed. There are more shops here than in any other city of
Chili ; as it is the centre of all the internal traffic of the country. The
inhabitants are gay and hospitable, and in these qualities excel their
countrymen in the Old World, who are proverbial for their gravity.
Pvlusic and dancing are the favourite amusements of the people ; as is
the case in almost every part of Spanish America.

Between Santiago and Valparaiso tliere is a fine road, and incessant
communication ; while from the capital to Buenos Ayres, there is not only
a good road, but a regular mail-route established, by which the inhabit-
ants of either city obtain letters eighteen da^'s after date. These cir-
cumstances are of great advantage to Valparaiso, and have contributed
much to her growth. Previous to the revolution, her trade was chiefly
confined to Peru, which it nearly supplied with grain, hemp, and
cordage ; receiving in retimi sugar, tobacco, indigo, spirits, and
cofi'ee.

Ships bound to Valparaiso should always make the land to the
south of the bay, at least two leagues^ as southerly winds prevail on
this coast more than seven-eighths of the time, for the year round. Six
or seven miles to the south of the bay, the coast is nearly north and south,
and indented with many small coves and bays. About four miles
south-west of Point Anoels there is a little bav, with a sand-beach at
the head of it, and a ragged rock at the mouth. After passing this rock,
the coast tends more to the eastward ; but with an offing of two or three
miles, the western point of Valparaiso Bay will be visible. This is
called Point Angels, jutting out from the coast in a north-west direction ;
and in doubling this point ships enter the Bay of Valparaiso, which is
open towards the north. In entering here with a southerly wind, a ship
should keep Point Angels close aboard ; for though there are a few
rocks lying a little off-shore, just within the outer point, yet they are

CLIMATE, WINDS, ETC. HI

not dangerous, being always visible, and may be safely passed within
a cable's lenoth.

The first interesting object that presents itself to the eye on round-
ing Point Angels is a long sandy beach on the opposite or eastern side
of the bay, and beyond that the almond-gardens before mentioned.
"In an instant afterward the whole town, shipping with their colours
flying, and the forts, burst out, as it were, from behind the rocks,"* and
the city of Valparaiso lies before you, close by the water, under a
naked precipice of red earth and rock.

This cheerful and animating scene may be contemplated as you
haul in lor the shipping and choose your anchorage. If it be winter,
a ship should not anchor in less than fifteen fathoms ; but during the
summer months her best berth M'ill be in-shore, in four or five fathoms,
if possible. She will be more likely to hold on in this position, as the
bottom is not so much broken up as it is farther oflf-shore.

This port is defended by three castles, viz. St. Anthony's, Rosario,
and Conception. There is also a fortress at the eastward of the A.1-
mandral, called Fort Caleta. That part of the town called the Alman-
dral, with its delightful groves of almond and olive-trees, occupies the
declivity of the mountain on the eastern side of the bay, and is con-
sidered as the suburbs of the city.

The climate here, except during the rainy season, is temperate,
healthful, serene, and not surpassed in any section of the globe. In
the spring, summer, and autumn months there is seldom a cloud to be
seen. A fog generally prevails in the morning, hanging over the coast,
and rising up the mountains in such a manner as to remind one of a
summer sunrise among the Highlands of the Hudson River. But when
the sun bursts from behind the mountains, the scene is instantly lighted
up with a beauty and a brilliancy unrivalled in any other place I have
ever visited. A foggy morning at Valparaiso is a good sign, for when
the morning breaks v/ith a perfect clear sky, and the sun rises uncon-
cealed by haze, while the horizon in the offing is broken by a tremulous
hue, a very strong southerly wind is to be expected about noon ; v/hich
sometimes comes down the mountain that encircles the town in fitful
gusts, and with such violence as to drive ships from their anchors, un-
less they lie v.-ell in-shore, under shelter of the highlands.

These troublesome v/inds, however, generally abate and die away
at sunset, when a calm night of starlit beauty succeeds ; which, if the
moon be at the right age, is delightful beyond description. AVhen the
morning breaks with fog, clouds, and haze, a breeze generally sets in
at the early part of the day, and frequently from difierent points of the
compass, but with no strong gusts from the south. The country back
of the precipice which surrounds the town is diversified with hills,
plains, and valleys. The vale of Quillota, in particular, is very beau-
tiful, and luxuriantly fertile. A river called the Aconcagua meanders
through it, on the banks of which is built the city of St. Martin de la
Concha, otherwise called Quillota, about forty miles from Valparaiso.

August 2d. — My venerable friend the consul-general had been so

* rortsr's Journal.

112 s THE EARTHQUAKE. . [1823.

liberal and prompt in his supplies, that I was nearly ready to sail on
Saturday, tlie 2d of August, for Port Coquimbo, about sixty-five leagues
farther north, where I intended to unload the Wasp, and tlirow her down
for a thorough repair. Mr. Hogan kindly advanced all the money
that I required, which enabled me to purchase copper, timber, and
other necessaries for the contemplated purpose. Much of our copper
sheathing had been ripped oil' by the ice, in our antarctic expedition ;
a new cut-water and false keel were also necessary ; and a portion of
the stern-post wliich had been beaten off while tiie Wasp was on the
rocks in the Gulf of Penas was to be replaced. The spars, sails,
and rigging likewise required overhauling and repairing : to do all
of which I was amply supplied with means by the kindness of Mr.
Hogan.

During one of my visits to this gentleman, he related to me many
interesting particulars connected with the late dreadful earthquake
which, eight months before, had nearly reduced tlie city to a heap of
ruins. This tremendous disaster occurred on the 18th of Novem-
ber ; the very day that I relinquished my fruitless search for the Aurora
Islands, as stated in Chap. III. It took place between ten and eleven
o'clock in the evening, and most of the destruction was caused by the
first shock, which was of nearly three minutes' duration. This un-
iisually protracted convulsion of the earth spread terror, consternation,
and dismay in every direction, far and near. The inhabitants fled to
the hills and the shipping for safety.

JNIany lives were lost ; more than three hundred mangled bodies
being afterward taken out of the ruins, from whence many were also
extricated alive. A great number were wounded, among whom "svas
the supreme director (who was down at that time from the capital,
Santiago), Avho very narrowly escaped while the governor's palace was
trembling over his head. Tliis building is still so entirely in ruins
that it will be required to rebuild it from the foundation. Several
churches were levelled to the ground, and others so much rent and
shattered as to ruin them. The custom-house was much injured, and
almost every building in the place received more or less damage.

Several other heavy shocks succeeded the first, but none of them
equalled it in violence or effect. Lighter shocks were experienced
almost every day afterward for nearly a month. All Chili appeared
to be shaken to its foundation ; and the capital, Santiago, or St. Jago,
was so violently agitated that most of the inhabitants left their houses,
and encamped in the fields. Several of the neighbouring towns and
villages were entirely ruined. The whole surviving population of Val-
paraiso were, for months afterward, scattered about the hills around
the port, and sheltered by tents, under the most alarming apprehensions
of perishing by famine, as all business was put a stop to.

;Mr. Hogan and the other consuls succeeded in making their escape
from the falling edifices, and took refuge on board the shipping, as did
also many English and American families residing in the place. One
of these gentlemen told me that he was sitting with some friends in his
room, when the first thing they heard was the falling of the roof, and, on
rushing forward he found it impossible to stand, the earth was in such

Aug.] THE EARTHQUAKE. 11

violent agitation. He fortunately got into the street before the house
fell ; the next moment the earth was rent asunder, leaving a tremen-
dous chasm !

" The objects on all sides," said he, " the screams of the dying, the
cries of the fugitives, and the dangers which surrounded me, filled my
mind with the most awful emotions. At length I was rescued from my
perilous situation by one of my friends, and took refuge on board the
shipping. But every two or three hours afterward there was a new
convulsion of the earth, which communicated itself to the water, and
sensibly aflected the repose of the vessels."

Another gentleman, a Bostonian, then residing at Valparaiso, de-
scribed his sensations nearly in the following terms : — " On the
eighteenth," said he, " we had been removing to another building, and
the goods, furniture, &c. were piled up loose and promiscuously about
the room where w^e slept, not having had time to stow^ them away.
We were in bed, and all the lights extinguished, on a second floor, high
from the street, and unacquainted with the passage out. I will not
attempt to describe the horror of the moment when the first shock was
felt. The sound resembled a long-continued peal of thunder. The
brick floor under us rattled ; the tenders over our heads cracked ; while
the lime and the dust from the crumbling mud-walls almost sufibcated
us. The whole edifice rolled and trembled like a ship in a heavy
short sea. AVe finally elTected our escape to the street, where the
tiles and other missiles were falling around us like hail. The shrieks of
women, the cries of children, and the voices of men were heard in
every direction ; and people of all classes were running almost naked
through the streets, calling on saints for mercy and protection."

Mr. Hogan then related an anecdote, which all the gentlemen pres-
ent assured me was a fact. He said that a few days after the earth-
quake, a number of priests drew up a petition for the expulsion of all
the English ami Americans (or heretics, as they termed them) that
resided at Valparaiso, as being the cause of the earthquake and its
attendant calamities, bv their not belonoino- to the true church. Thev
applied to the oldest judge of the city to obtain his signature to head
the list of petitioners. His reply was, " How can you attribute this
affliction to the wickedness of the ' Anglices,'' when tJieir houses are
most of them standing, and all their lives spared, as witnesses of their
innocence ; while you, who call yourselves good Catholics, with all
your prayers, and the assistance of patron saints, could not save our
churches, houses, and hundreds of the true faith from utter destruction I
As for myself, on the night of the earthquake, with the rest of my familyt
I was taken from impending ruin by an American, at the imminent risk
ef his life,when no countrjTiian of ray own would come to my assistance ;
I shall therefore not subscribe to any such thing."

I could not depart from Valparaiso without taking a more particular
leave of the consul, and tendering him the sincere homage of my
esteem and respect. He received me and parted from me as a father
would with a favourite son. The warm cordiality of his manners,
united with the sprightliness and intelligence of his conversation, en-
krened by anecdotes of all parts of the world, endear him to every

114 PORT OF COQUIMBO. [1823.

one who has the happiness to be near him. He has been a great trav-
eller, and a very close observer, which facts render his conversation
peculiarly interesting. He was once a midshipman m the British navy,
on board the same ship, and in the same mess, with the then Duke oi
Clarence, now King ol" England. I parted from him with regret and
affection. I have had occasion to visit him in subsequent voyages,
and always with sentiments of increased admiration.

August 3(/. — We this day departed from Valparaiso, with a light
breeze from south-south-west, and fair weatlier. At 8, P. M., we took
the wind from the northward, varying from north-west to north-east, at-
tended, part of the time, with heavy rains.

August 1th. — We arrived at the port of Coquimbo, and at 5, P. M.,
came to anchor in four fathoms of water, mud and clay bottom. Here
we found the brig Canada, Captain Hutchins, from Baltimore, on a
trading voyage, and waiting for part of a cargo of copper. Captain
H. kindly assisted me in my contemplated repairs of the Wasp, by
permitting me to transfer her cargo to his brig, which was lying in
ballast, and to heave the schooner down by the brig. He likewise let
me have his carpenter and a part of his crew, which was of very great
assistance, and a courtesy that I shall not easily or speedily forget.

We immediately commenced overhauling the Wasp, and preparing
to turn her keel out of water ; so that on Monday, the eleventh, the
starboard side of the schooner's bottom was exposed to view, when wc
discovered that the cut-water, with a portion of the main stem, also
the false keel, with a part of the main keel, together with the heel of
the stern-post, had all been beaten off on the rocks in the Gulf of Penas,
on the fourth of July. We likewise found that a great part of the
copper had been cut off the bottom, from the bends about six feet under
. "Water, nearly fore and aft, by the ice in the antarctic circle;

August 2\st. — AVe had laboured so diligently that by Monday, the
eighteenth, the vessel's bottom was in perfect order ;*and on Tiiurs-
day, the twenty-first, we were all ready for sea, with every thing on
board. It is but just to remark, in this place, that I received every
assistance from Mr. Stewart, the vice-consul of the United States, that
my distressed situation required, the damages of the Wasp having ex-
ceeded our anticipations.

The port of Coquimbo is a convenient and safe harbour, much fre-
quented, and noted for the extensive copper-mines in its vicinity. In
entering this port, it is proper to make the land a few leagues south
of it, say in latitude 30^ 5' S., and follow the shore to the northward
till you approach the nearest point of the bay, which opens to the north
like that of "Valparaiso. Off this point a number of rocks and rocky
islets are visible, which strangers had best leave on the right-hand,
although there is water four fathoms deep between them and the point ;
but the passage is narrow, and by keeping outside of them, sufficient
room is secured to beat to windward, which is generally necessary to
reach the anchorage in the south-west part of the bay, abreast of some
'warehouses. Here a ship may anchor in from eight to three fathoms,
with the flag-staff on the fort bearing west, distant about one milo.
Here is a fine harbour, and the fairest of weather that it is possible ta

Aug.] ADVENTURE WITH A PULLA-PEREE MAX. 115

^vish for nearly all the year round. It is approached without clanger,
and enjoyed without any molestation from the elements. The only
annoyance to be apprehended is from man — degraded, base, mercenary
man ! as I was taught by experience before my departure.

The town of Coquimbo, sometimes called La Serena, is prepossess-
ing in its appearance ; the streets are shaded with myrtle-trees, and
arranged so as to form squares ; a garden well stored with fruit trees
is attached to every house. It was the capital of the province of the
same name previous to the revolution, being the second town built by
Valdivia, for the purpose of maintaining an intercourse between Peru
and Chili. It stands about a mile from the sea, in a most delightful
situation, commanding an extensive view of the country, the ocean, and
a river of the same name. The country around presents a charmmg
prospect, diversified with shady groves, cultivated fields, and verdant
meadows.

The town is large, but is said not to be proportionably populous. It
has several churches and convents ; also a town-house, and some other
public buildings. It is furnished wiih water by canals cut from the river
on its north side, which has previously meandered through a beautiful
valley of the same name ; by this means the freshness, beauty, and fer-
tility of their gardens are rendered so conspicuous. This river empties
into the bay where we were now lying at anchor, ready for sea. The
country is not only very prolific in vegetable productions, but also
abounds with mines of various kinds. There is one of copper about
five leagues from the town, on a high green hill in form of a sugar-
loaf, which serves as a landmark in entering the port. The climate
is very agreeable, being almost uniformly mild and serene.

Before I take my leave of Coquimbo, I feel it my duty to give one
serious caution to shipmasters who visit tliis port ; and that is, to pro-
hibit their crews from having any dealings with the pulla-perees, of
grog-shops, as they are called ; as I can assert, from experience, that
they are kept by some of the greatest villains on earth. I had much
trouble with these fellows while heaving my vessel down at this port j
as they enticed a great part of my crew from their duty, and kept them
concealed in a continued state of intoxication, at a time when I most
wanted their services.

On the evening before I sailed, Thursday, the twenty-first, one of
these pulla-peree men came to me and said that he knew where my
men were, and that if I wished it he would take a guard of soldiers
and conduct them on board. I readily assented to the proposition^
and directed him to get them on board as soon as possible, though in
a state of intoxication. They were accordingly taken on board at
about four, P. M. ; and at five, P. M., the same villain came to me
while I was on shore in company with Captain Hutchins, and told me
that he had a small bill against some of my crew. I took the bill, and
the reader may guess my astonishment on finding the amount to be
07ie hundred and cighty-scveji dollars !

I coolly returned him the accomit, tellmg him he must bring it on
board in the morning, as I could not discharge it till the men had ex-
amined the bill, and acknowledged it to be correct. He appeared

II 3

116 ADVENTURE WITH A PULLA-PEREE MAN. [1823.

satisfied with this arrangement, bade me good night, and left me. I
soon after went on board the scliooner ; and at eleven, P. M., called
the crew aft, and inquired what they had had while on shore. They re-
plied that they could not tell, for tliis fellow had kept them out in the
country in a state of senseless inebriation all the time they had beeu
on shore ; that he had shown them a written paper, purporting to be a
certificate from me that they might have their liberty while the vessel
was in port ; and that I had ordered him to let them have whatever
they wanted until she was ready for sea !

This candid statement of the delinquents confirmed what I had pre-
viously learned from the Spaniards respecting this man ; I therefore
at once determined not to submit to such a shameful imposition. But
knowing tlie imbecility of the civil authority, I concluded that it was
worse than useless to look for legal protection ; I therefore resolved to
leave the port during that night. Accordingly, at two, A. M., when a
light air sprang up from the south, I called all hands, muffled the palls
of the windlass, ran the anchor up to the bows, got out the sweeps,
and swept the vessel out of the harbour ; by which time it was day-
light, and a dead calm.

August 22d. — A little after daylight I saw a boat coming round the
point, full of soldiers well armed, about thirty in number. Having ex-
pected the visit, I was fully prepared to receive them. All hands were
at quarters, the guns double-shotted with canister and grape, and all
the muskets and boarding-pikes were on deck.

As soon as the boat came within hail, I ran up the star-spangled
banner, and demanded of them what they wanted. They immediately
lay upon their oars, while the pulla-peree gentleman assumed the
office of spokesman, and said he must have either his money or the
men who owed it. In reply, I reminded him of his villany, and that
we were now five miles from the port, with a legal clearance from the
custom-house ; assured him that I neither knew the party, nor would
acknowledge any claims which they might pretend to have against the
Wasp ; that my men were under the protection of my guns and the
flag of my coimtry ; and, finally, that if they advanced their boat's
length nearer to the schooner, the account would very quickly be settled
with hard, if not with precious metal.

Suiting the action to the word, every gun was immediately pointed
for the boat. This manoeuvre was sufficient for our doughty assail-
ants. The word among them was instantly " Stern, all /" and they
lost no time in pulling to a respectful distance ; and no doubt con-
sidered themselves very fortunate in being permitted to return to the
shore in as good health as they left it.

At about ten, A. M., we took a breeze from south -by-west, with fair
weather, when we shaped mu- course for the islands of St. Ambrose
and St. Felix. During this passage we were often surrounded by
sperm and right whales, porpoises, d-olphins, bonettas, skipjacks,
sharks, and pilot-fish. -\

August 2Dth. — On Monday, the twenty -fifth of August, at two, P. M.,
we arrived at the island of St. Ambrose, and sent the boats on shore
m search of seal. They returned at seven, P. M., with eighty-seven

Aug.] ST. AMBROSE AND ST. FELIX. 117

fur-seal skins. After examining this island, we paid a similar visit on
the following day to St. Felix, about six leagues west-south-west of it,
where we obtained two hundred and eleven fur-seal skins. Here also
we encountered a very interesting adventure, with which I shall com-
mence the next chapter. In the mean time it will be proper to give the
reader some idea of the character of these islands, and of their location.

The islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix lie about 500 miles north-
west from Port Coquimbo, and nearly the same distance west of Co-
piapo, a town and cape on the coast of northern Chili. They are
north-north-west of the island of Juan Fernandez about one hundred
and sixty leagues, being in latitude 26'' 30' S., long. 80° 0' W.

As before intimated, St. Ambrose is the most easterly of these two
islands, and is about five miles in circumference. On the north side
there is a fine snug little cove for a boat, and a good landing at all
seasons of the year, with the wind blowing from any southerly point
between east and west. But it is difficult to obtain fresh water from
this landing. About the centre of the north side, however, there is a
still better landing, where fresh water of an excellent quality may be
had in any quantity from a pond on the top of the island, or table-land,
and led down to the boats by means of a hose, without any trouble.
Small as this island is, it can boast of a mountain -which rises about
three hundred and fifty feet from its base, with vegetation on its summit
and sides, where grow many kinds of plants and shrubs. A few seals
of the fur kind are found on the shores of this island.

The island of St. Felix, which lies farther west, is about the same
size as the one just described, and is elevated about three hundred
feet above the level of the sea. On its west and south-west sides it
presents nothmg to the eye but steep perpendicular cliffs ; but there is
a place for landing on the north-west side, about one-fourth of a mile
eastward of the north-west head or bluff. Here, in a sort of gully,
you may land on a flat rock at all seasons of the year ; but on the
beaches at the north and east sides of the island the landing is dan-
gerous, as the shores are very steep. But after you have landed, there
is nothing in the prospect to repay you for the trouble. The island
is entirely destitute of grass, verdure, or vegetable productions of any
description ; the whole being a barren sun-burnt surface, diversified
only with rocks and sand.

This island is mostly visited by sailors for the purpose of taking seal-
skins, the fur of which is of a very good quality. It is also a fine place
to gather the eggs of aquatic birds, and to catch fish, which are play-
ing round the shores in great abundance. A man may stand on the
rocks at the landing, with line and hook, baited with the flesh of seals
or birds, and load a boat with crawfish in half a day. Eggs of aquatic
birds may be gathered in any quantity during the months of December
and January on both these islands. Those of the shag and the gannet
are nearly equal to hens' eggs in taste. There are no dangers near
either of these islands two cables'-length from shore. Both of them
are evidently of volcanic origin, the rocks showing every mark of hav-
ing once been in a state of fusion, and pumice-stones are found on
different parts of the islands.

118 A DISCOVERY— INEXCUSABLE BARBARITY. [1823.

CHAPTER IX.

A Disco\'^ry — Inexcusable Barbarity — Hopeless Sufferings and joyful Preserva-
tion — Lobos Afuero — Lobos de Terra — Indian Catamarans, and I3alzas — River
and Town of Tumbes — Pizarro in Peru — Port and Town of Tacames — Nat-
ural Productions— Volcanic Mountains — Height of Chimborazo — Cities of Quito
and Cuzco — Monuments of ancient Splendour — Walls of the Temple of the
Sun still standing — Ruins of the Incas' Palace— Gallapagos Islands — Elephant
Tortoises— IslaiKi of Juan Fernandez — Natural Productions — Escape of the
Convicts— Alexander Selkirk, or Robinson Crusoe.

While standing in for the island of St. Felix, my attention was ar-
rested by the appearance of a flag or signal from the top of the island ;
which, on approaching nearer, I concluded to be a sailor's shirt fastened
to a pole. In a few minutes afterward the man at the mast-head re-
ported that he could distinguish several persons near the signal-pole,
making strong gesticulations, as if anxious to attract our attention.
The idea of shipwrecked sufferers on a desert island, pleading for
s'uccour, now very naturally occurred to our minds, and we lost no time
in making a favourable reply to their signals.

As soon as we had approached sufficiently near the island I hove-
to, and ordered the boats to be lowered, manned, and furnished with
refreshments of every kind. As soon as these movements were per-
ceived by the men on shore, they evinced the most extravagant sensa-
tions of joy, which seemed to increase as the boats approached the
shore. The interview between these poor fellows and their deliverers
was such as might be expected under such circumstances, a brief de-
tail of which was soon furnished by the sufferers, in substance as
follows : —

The schooner Francisco, Captain Van Doras, had sailed from Val-
paraiso on a sealing voyage, and touched at these islands in the latter
part of the month of May, three months previous to our arrival. The
captain concluded to leave five of his crew on the island of St. Felix,
to take seal-skins, while he proceeded with the vessel to some other
place, on the same business. He left with them suffi.cient water and
provisions to last three weeks, pledging himself to be back in a fort-
night, and take them off. They went cheerfully to work, and faith-
fully performed the duties assigned them for fourteen days, at the ex-
piration of which they began to look out for the return of the vessel ;
but they looked in vain. Another week elapsed, and they began to
grow alarmed.

Their provisions and water were now nearly all exhausted ; and
nothing like a sail could be seen in the circling horizon which bounded
tlie vast waste of waters that surrounded the island. Day after day
passed by, and their situation became desperate. The horrid idea of,
being purposely left here to perish irresistibly fastened itself on their

Sept.] LOBOS AFUERO AND LOBOS DE TERRA. ug

minds, and plunged them into a state of hopelessness, bordering on
despair. Their food now consisted of raw fish, and the flesh of seals
and birds dried in the sun, not having the means of making a fire to
cook it. Three months had now passed away, and nothing had oc-
curred to revive their dying hopes. In a few weeks more their suffer-
ings would probably have terminated in a lingering death.

But where was the inhuman wretch who had abandoned them to
this dreadful fate ? I was afterward informed that he proceeded from
this island to Callao, in Peru, where he plunged into a course of dissi-
pation and excesses which effectually drove every thought of business
or humanity from his mind ; until he at length awoke from the bewil-
dering dream, a ruined and degraded man.

It is hardly necessary to state that these unfortunate men were re-
ceived on board the Wasp, and treated as duty and humanity dictated,
for which their gratitude was unbounded. Some of them returned with
me to the United States ; the others being left, at their own request,
in different ports on the coast of Chili. The names of the five were,
William Golden, or Golding, Joseph Alexander, Peleg Wilber, John
Stewart, and Hugh Hill.

August 2Sth. — On Thursday, at 7, P. M., after hoisting up the boats,
and securing them in the cranes, we filled away, and steered for the
%veather (or southern) Lobos, with a light breeze from the south-south-
east, and fair weather. The next day, at 10, A. M., being in lat.
25^ 2' S., long. 79° 41' W., we found the variation per azimuth 9° 52'
easterly. We continued standing to the north, with alternate light winds
and calms, for more than ten days, without meeting any occurrence
worth recording.

September 9th, — We amved at Lobos Afuero, or outer Lobos, on
Tuesday, and at 1, P. M., we anchored in six fathoms of water, sandy
bottom, in a fine harbour, on the north-west side of the island ; and at
2, P. M., sent the boats on shore m search of seals, whieh returned at
7, P. M., with only twenty-eight fur-skins, being all that could be pro-
cured here at this time. •

This island is in lat. 6° 59' S., long. 80° 42' W. The harbour is
fine and commodious, in which fifty ships might lie in safety all the
year round. Those who wish to anchor here should pass to the south
of the island, then haul round the west end towards the north until
the bay opens, when they may beat up the harbour in safety, by keep-
ing a look-out for a single rock in the north part of the bay, nearly
midv/ay between its two outer points, but rather inclining to the
north point. This rock may be timely discovered from the mast-head,
though it is covered seven feet deep at low water. Ships should not
approach the eastern part of this island nearer than a mile, there being
several sunken rocks in that direction. Fish may be caught here in
abundance, and eggs are plenty in the proper season. The island is
moderately elevated, may be seen six or seven leagues in clear weather,
and has a rugged appearance, without vegetation or fresh water, except
during the rainy season.

September 10 th. — We next visited the inner or northern island,
ualled Lobos de Terra, where we anchored on Wednesday, at 7, A. M.f

120 INDIAN CATAMARANS AND BALZAS. [1823^

in four lathoms of water, at the head of a small bay, on the north part
of the island. At 8, A. M., sent the boats in search of seals.

This island is in latitude 6° 34' S., long. 80"" 45' W., variation 8^
45' easterly. On the north side is a safe and convenient harbour,
formed by an island of considerable length on the west, separated by
a very narrow passage, suitable only for boats. The south end of this
small island forms the south and west parts of the harbour. This is a
delightful bay, with smooth water, level beach, and pleasant prospects.
An abundance of eggs can be obtained here in the month of Decem-
ber, from the rookeries of aquatic birds. Lobos de Terra is much
longer than the southern or outer Lobos ; its surface is not so much
elevated, but more even and level. There are not so many rocks and
islets around it, and it is more free from dangers. Fur and hair-seals
are found here in considerable numbers ; and a variety of scale-fish
may be caught wdtli hook and line. It lies seven leagues from the
mainland, from whence it may always be seen in clear weather.

The Indians from the continent visit these islands every year, for the
purpose of sealing and fishing, and gathering eggs, which they sell on
the main. They come hither on a kind of raft, well known on this
coast by the term catamaran. This craft is composed of a number of
large logs of a light and buoyant nature, lashed together with cordage
made of a certain species of grass. They are generally from twenty
to twenty-five feet in length, and sometimes even fifty feet. In the
middle there is raised a kind of box, three or four feet in height, for the
better security of the mast, which is stepped in the centre bottom log.
They have likewise a short bowsprit rigged out forward, to which the
tack of the sail is fastened. The latter is nearly square, and bent to
a yard, by which it is hoisted to the mast, the halliards being bent on
to the yard about one-third of the distance from the forward end ; the
other end, abaft the mast, being always tlie longest and the most
elevated. The tack of the sail is then hauled dov/n to the extremity
of the bowsprit ; and the after-leach, or sheet, is hauled aft, in the
same manner as a ship's main-sheet. These catamarans are steered
with large wide-loomed oars, which are shipped on the after end of
the logs, about tv/o feet high. They will beat to windward like a pilot
boat, and I have seen them fifty miles from land. This is the only way
the Indians transport their produce to market at the different towns
along the coast.

They have likewise an ingeniously constructed machine, somewhat
similar to the life-buoy, which the Spaniards call halzas ; made of
skins sewed together, and filled with air. Two of these wind-bags
are lashed together, and a small board placed across them in the centre,
on which they sit to paddle. Embarked on these air-bubbles, they will
pass through a very heavy surf with the greatest ease and safety.
They are principally used in fishing along the coast.

The Indians sometimes visit these islands in large parties, on fishing
excursions or frolics ; and frequently stay three or four weeks. I have
always found them to be very civil and accommodating ; having fre-
quently received kind ofliices at their hands, such as presents of fruit,
vegetables, &;c. from the main. They always bring their fresh water

♦Sept.] RIVER AXD TOWN OF TUMBEZ. 121

■with them in these catamarans, as there is none to be found on the
islands, which are covered with sand, rocks, and the dung of aquatic
birds : the latter sufficient to load thousands of ships, having been ac-
cumulating for untold ages. It is called guannar by the Spaniards,
and is probably the richest manure in the world.

There are many different sorts of birds here ; but few of them are
of any value except for their eggs. The flesh of one kind, however,
is very palatable, and I have frequently found it a valuable acquisition
to the table. This is called the razor-bill, because the bill of the bird
bears a strong resemblance to the implement for shaving. It is about
the size of a small teal, perfectly black, shy of man, and very social,
being always found in flocks. All the large birds here form their
rookeries on the plains of level white sand ; and v/hen viewed from our
anchorage, have the appearance of two armies within a short distance
of each other. One kind of these birds are called boobies, and they
always associate together in their rookeries : they have a very white
face, neck, and breast, but the back part of the head and back is black,
giving them, at a distance, somewhat of a military appearance. The
pelicans are another kind which associate in rookeries, and are very
large, moving about with their heads elevated, in martial order. The
latter are called the Russian army, while the former are called the army
of Bonaparte.

September lotli. — We remained at the Lobos de Terra, constantly
employed in the incidental duties of a sealing voyage, mitil Sunday,
the 14th ; when, at seven, P. M., we again got under way, and steered
for the river Tumbez, with a light breeze from south-south-east, and
fair weather. On the following day, at eleven, A. M., we entered this
celebrated river, in lat. a"" 13' S.,'long. 80^ 3' W; variation S^ 13'
easterly. I call it a celebrated river, because in the year 1526 Pizarro
first landed on its banks with that mercenary army of Spaniards who
committed so many wanton depredations on the inoffensive natives of
Peru. The romance of history has derived some of its most brilliant
and interesting incidents from the details of that campaign ; and the
country lying between this river and the ancient city of Quito has been
rendered classic ground by the magic pens of Kotzebue, Sheridan, and
other dramatists.

The river Tumbez rises near the Cordilleras of the Andes, and dis-
charges itself into the Bay of Guayaquil, nearly opposite the island
of St. Clara. Its banks are said to be well cultivated by the native
Indians, mestezoes, mulattoes, and some Spaniards, who here pursue
their rural occupations, watering their grounds from the river. The
heat is excessive, nor have they any rain for several months in succes-
sion ; but when it once begins to fall, it continues through the winter
season. This river forms the northern boundary of the Peruvian
coast. There is a bar before its entrance, on which the surf generally
runs high, which makes it difficult watering here from the river, and
the water is brackish a mile and a half from the entrance. Barks,
boats, balzas, and canoes navigate this river ; but it is dangerous going
up in the winter season, as the natural impetuosity of its current is
ihen much increased by torrents from the mountams.

122 PORT AND TOWN OF TAG AMES. [1823.

The to^^^l of Tunibez is about six miles inland, and here, according
10 Spanish accounts, once stood a superb temple of the sun, an inca's
palace, and other splendid edifices, not a vestige of which are now to
be seen ; but in their places wave aged forests of heavy limber. The
present town contains about three thousand inhabitants, who are
mostly poor, but industrious. I have ever found them a very pleasant
and obliging people, constantly employed in rural occupations, and
their plantations are generally productive. Vegetables of all kinds
may be procured here, but the prices are high. The soil produces
cocoa, corn, melons, oranges, sugar-cane, sweet-potatoes, pumpkins,
plantains, &;c. The houses are formed of reeds, covered with rushes,
open at all sides, and having the floor elevated about four feet from
the earth, to protect them from the alligators, which are numerous in
the river, and of a large size.

September \6tk. — Finding that we could not obtain the necessary
supplies in this place without paying an exorbitant price, a due regard
to the interest of my owners induced me, on Tuesday, the 16th, to sail
for Tacames, a port about eighty leagues farther north, and fifty-two
miles north of the equator, wdiich we crossed, under a vertical sun, on
Sunday, the 21st, in long. 80^ W.

September 22c?. — On the following day, at one P. M., we anchored
in the Bay of Tacames, in four fathoms of water. In running for this
port, a ship should endeavour to make Cape St. Francisco, in lat. 00^
42' N., long. 79° 39' W. ; variation 7° 51' easterly. The land of the
coast, to the southward of this cape, forms an extensive height ; from
which there are many rocky shoals running off some distance from the
shore, particularly about the vicinity of the village of Arcol. By
keeping two leagues off-shore, however, all dangers may be avoided,
and from fifteen to twenty-five fathoms of water secured.

Off Cape St. Francisco there are a number of small rocks, which ex-
tend to the northward as far as Cape Galera, about which point the
land is not very high. Here the wind commonly blows from the south,
between the months of April and December, from midday to seven or
eight o'clock in the evening, quite fresh.

From Point Galera, north-east-by-east-half-east, distant about five
leagues, lies Tacames, or Attacames, a small seaport town, in the
south part of the republic of Colombia. Here vessels will find good
anchorage and safe shelter, a little to the eastward of a rock that lies
on the w^est side of the bay, about two cables' length from the shore,
rising nearly seventy-five feet above the level of the sea.

The best watering-place is in a small river on the west side of the
bay, at the mouth of which, on the last of the ebb, water-casks may
be filled, not more than three-fourths of a mile from the ship. This is
also the best place to cut wood, which may be procured in any quan-
tity at the mouth of this river. The water taken from this stream is
of an excellent quality for long voyages, no other having ever, to my
knowledge, kept sweet and pure so long.

The town of Tacames is small, containing about five hundred in-
habitants, the construction of whose habitations is somewhat singular,
tut well adapted to the climate and other localities. They are built

Sept.] TACAMES—CHIMBORAZO— QUITO. 12 3

similar to those of New-Guinea, being elevated upon posts, about ten
feet from the ground, and consisting of only one storj\ On the posts
or stakes driven into the earth, which support the building, the floor is
laid, above which most of the materials are bamboos. The roof is
thatched with a kind of long grass that is common in this countrj-.
Each house has one door only, which is entered by means of a ladder,
the latter being hauled up into the house every night, when the family
is about retiring to rest, to prevent their being disturbed by wild ani-
mals, with which this part of the country abounds.

The soil is very fertile, and yields two crops a year ; so that vege-
tables and fruit are always plenty in the town of Tacames. The
temperature is like that of Guayaquil, and accordingly it produces the
same kind of fruit, grain, and vegetables ; some of them in greater
perfection, on account of its more elevated situation. It likewise pro-
duces, in great abundance, vanillas, balsams, achote, copal, cocoa,
sarsaparilla, tobacco, and indigo. Considerable quantities of wax are
made here ; and the forests of tlic country afford a great variety of
trees, of large size and lofty height, fit for naval and domestic pur-
poses, including many rare and valuable woods. They likewise pro-
cure a considerable quantity of gold-dust from the streams of the moun-
tains, besides many valuable minerals. Notwithstanding the ample
resources of this place, however, it has hitherto been very Ihtle fre-
quented by nautical adventurers, either for trade or refreshment. '

The country between the river Tumbes and Tacames exhibits
several mountains of a volcanic character ; but that part of the Cor-
dilleras of the Andes abounds with them. Here rises the celebrated
Chimborazo, an immense cone, that can be seen far into the Pacific
Ocean, presenting to the eye of the mariner a most magnificent object.
It rises, according to Humboldt, to twenty-one thousand four hundred
and forty feet. That illustrious traveller ascended its slope as high
as nineteen thousand three hundred feet, the highest point on the globe
ever ascended to by man. It is covered, for several thousand feet, by
perpetual snow, and generally surrounded by fogs. Were Mount
iEtna placed on the summit of Canigou, or were St. Gothard piled on
the top of the peak of Teneriffe, the mighty Chimborazo would still
raise his snow-crowned head above them. The native Peruvians,
however, have a tradition that another mountain in that neighbourhood
was once even more elevated than Chimborazo. This was the altar-
mountain, called by them Copa-urcu. But that after a continual
eruption of eight years, it gradually sank to a lower altitude. In
proof of this fact, the top of the mountain presents, in its inclined
peaks, nothing but the traces of destruction.

About one hundred miles north-east of Chimborazo stands the
celebrated city of Quito, the ancient capital of the incas. It is built
on the elevated volcanic region of Pichincha, nine thousand five hun-
dred feet above the level of the Pacific Ocean. It is the most elevated
large city of the globe, and the inhabitants formerly enjoyed a mild
and equal temperature of atmosphere, unrivalled in any other quarter
of the world. But the dreadful earthquake of the 4th of February,

124 QUITO— GALL.\PAGOS ISLANDS. [1823.

1797, whicli overwhelmed the entire provmce of Quito, and destroyed
in a single instant 40,000 people, seems to have entii-ely changed the
character of the climate.

Previous to this horrible event, Quito was blest with a perpetual
spring in her mountain eyrie, though situated nearly under the equator.
Since that period, however, the atmosphere has become cloudy and
lowering, and the cold at times severe, Avhile earthquakes are con-
tinually agitating the devoted city. But " notwithstanding the horrors
and the dangers with which nature has thus suiTOunded them, the
population of Quito, amounting to 50,000 individuals, breathes nothing
but gayety and luxury ; and nowhere, perhaps, does there reign a more
decided or a more general taste for pleasure. The inhabitants of the
town are lively and amiable."*

The city of Quito still retains, it is said, many monuments of its
ancient splendour, while the country was under the government of the
incas, and previous to its being conquered and partially devastated by
the Spaniards, under the ambitious and ferocious Don Francisco
Pizarro. The city of Cuzco, also, the ancient capital of Peru, is said
to exhibit several antiquities of this character ; of which the fortress
of the incas is considered to be not the least remarkable. The walls
of the temple of the sun are still standing, having been converted
into a Dominican monastery, the altar of which occupies the precise
spot where the golden image of the bright luminary was formerly
adored. The residence of the virgins of the sun has been converted
into a dwelling for the nuns of Cuzco, some of whom may possibly
dream of Rollas and Alonzos, less noble and virtuous than the lover
and the husband of Cora.

At Caxamarca, the capital of a territory of the same name, on the
river Tunguragua, are still to be seen the remains of the palace of the
imfortunate inca Atahualpa, who was strangled by order of Pizarro,
after having been plundered of immense treasures, which the friends
of the unhappy captive had collected for his ransom ! The ruins of
this palace are still inhabited by a poor family that claims the honour
of^ being lineally descended from the incas.

September 21th. — Having received on board a sufficient supply of
such vegetables and other refreshments as our circumstances required,
together with an adequate quantity of wood and water, we took our
leave of the friendly inhabitants of Tacames, and directed our course
to the Gallapagos Islands, where we arrived on the 3d of October.

This archipelago is situated under the equator, about two hundred
and twenty leagues west of the American continent, between the
meridians of eighty-nine and ninety-two, west of Greenwich. It com-
prises a large group of uninhabited islands, which were first discovered
by the Spaniards, and afterward explored by those celebrated naviga-
tors Vancouver, Colnett, and Hall, to whom we are indebted for an
accurate knowledge of their several situations. Thirteen of these
islands, being the prmcipal ones of the group in size and importance,
have been named as follows : — Chatham, Hood's, Chaiies's, Indefati-^

* M. Ma]te Bnin.

Sept.] ELEPHANT TORTOISES. 125

gable, James's, Albemarle, Narborongh's, Abingdon, Bindloe's, Tower's,
Wenman's, Culpepper's, and Barrington's.

The name of this archipelago is derived from the Spanish word
^^ galapago,'^ a fresh-water tortoise, and it was given to these islands
because they abound with the largest class of those animals, a species
of terrapin, to which Commodore Porter gave the name of " elephant
tortoise^'' as their legs, feet, and motions strongly resemble those of
an elephant. " Many of them," says he, " are of a size to weigh up-
wards of three hundred weight ; and nothing, perhaps, can be more
disagreeable or clumsy than they are in their external appearance.
Their steps are slow, regular, and heavy ; they carry their bodies
about a foot from the ground ; their neck is from eighteen inches to
two feet in length, and very slender ; their head is proportioned to it,
and strongly resembles that of a serpent. But what seems the most
extraordinary in this animal, is the length of time that it can exist
without food ; for I have been well assured," continues the commo-
dore, '' that they have been piled away among casks, in the hold of a
ship, where they have been kept eighteen months, and when killed at
the expiration of that time, were found to have suffered no diminution
in fatness or excellence. They carry with them a constant supply of
water, in a bag at the root of the neck, which contains about two gal-
lons ; and on tasting that found in those we killed on board, it proved
perfectly fresh and sweet. They are very restless when exposed to
the light and heat of the sun, but Avill lie in the dark from one year's
end to the other, without moving."*

I shall embrace this occasion to add my feeble testimony to the
correctness of Commodore Porter's statements generally, during his
interesting and glorious cruise in the Pacific Ocean, in the years 1812,
1813, and 1814. His descriptions of various parts of the coast and
islands have much assisted me in my subsequent visits to the same
places, and may be depended upon as correct, particularly as regards
his remarks on the Gallapagos Islands.

There is no doubt that these islands are all of volcanic origin ; and
have, generally speaking, always been barren, with the exception of a
kind of stunted brushwood that grew upon them. But of late years
they have become more fertile, both the upland and valleys being now
tolerably well wooded, over a good and rich soil, which wants nothing
but a more liberal supply of moisture. The sides of hills near the
shore are covered with prickly-pear-trees, upon which the land-tortoises
feed and thrive in a most wonderful manner. These animals grow to
even a greater size than that mentioned by Commodore Porter, as I have
seen some that would weigh from six to eight hundred pounds. They
are excellent food, and hare no doubt saved the lives of thousands of
seamen employed in the whale-fishery in those seas, both Americans
and Englishmen. I have known whale-ships to take from six to nina
hundred of the smallest size of these tortoises on board, when about
leaving the islands for their cruising grounds ; thus providing them-
.^elves with fresh provisions for six or eight months, and securing the

* Se« Porter's Journal, p. 47.

120 ISI^ND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ. [182i

men riKainst the scurvy. 1 have had tliosc animals on bonril my own
vessels from five to six luonllis, witlioiil their oneo taking food or
water; and on killiM^ llieni I Iwive loiind more than a (piarl of sweet
I'resh water in tlie reeeptacU' wliich nature lias furnished thorn lor tliat
IMnpose, wliih' their Ihsli was in as ^'ood condition as wlien 1 first
look tliem on board. They liave boon known to live on hoard of some
of our whale-sliips for fourteen months, under similar circumstanccsj
without atjy aj)i)arent diminution of health or weight.

'I'lie (Jailapaoos Islands have heen so freijuenlly and so aecurately
(lcscril»(Ml, hy navigators who have visited them solely for that pur-
pose, that I do not deem it necessary to detain tlie reader with any
remarks of my own, exc(>pt to refer him to the following authentic
works, in which he will fmd all the necessary sailing directions, in
eoimexion with such other information as may assist a stranger in ex-
l)loring this interesting archipelago, viz. Nora Delano's Voyages, Van-
couver's, Colnetl's, Hall's, l*orter's .lournal, <^c. '

December 2(1. — We renrained among these islands about two monllu?,
during whicli period we took ahoiil live thousand hn*-seal skins ; when,
fmding that these animals had abandoned the shores, we thought it
time to abandon them also. Accordingly, after taking on board on«
Innuhed of the elephant tortoises, which complelely covered our decks,
we got under way on Tuesday, the 2d of December, at two P. M.,
and took our {le()arture from (Charles's Island, slni])ing our course for
that of .luan Fernandez, once the solitary residence of Alexander Sel-
kirk, alias Kobinson (Vusoe.

'i'his eelebr.ited island bears about south-soutli-east from tlie Oalhi-
pagos grou|), distant seven hundred leagues. 'J'he wind now blew
iVom till- south-east, a fnu^ breeze, and lair weather. We stood to tho
south, with our larboard tacks on board; and for several days after
leaving the group wo had a steady royal breeze from east-south-cast
to soulii-soutli-east, with pleasant weather, occasionally falling in com-
pany with sj)erm whales. In lat. 10" 11' S., long. 90° 13' W., we
"were surrounded, for nearly twenty-four hours, by large flocks of gan-
nets; but on reaching lat. I?'' 21' S., hnig. <)()" 11' W., we saw no
more of ihcm until near the island for which we were bound.
I Ja/utan/ VZ(h, 1824. — On AVednesday, the 2 llh December, we lost
the soutli-east trade-wind, in lat. 20° 0' S., long. 91° 4' W., and
from that time until the 0th Jaimary we had a contimiation of calms.
A fresh breeze then visited us from west-south-west, which wafted us
to tho easternmost island of Juan Fernandez, where wo arrived on
Tuesday, the 12th day of January, and anchored in a small bay on
its north-eastern side, about half a mile from the shore, in live fathoms
of wat(>r, with the centre of the village bearing west-by-north. The
boats were innncdialely lowered, and the water-casks taken on shore
to the watering-place, on the north-west side of the bay, where there
is a rivulet of fresh water, of excellent quality.

The two islands discovered by Juan l''ernandcz, in loG3, arc about
one hundred and ten leagues from the continent, bearing nearly west-
by-south from Valparaiso. The largest of the two, or Jiobinsoii
Crusoe's Island, where wc were now watering, is nearest to the main,

Jan.] ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ 127

and is therefore called by the Spaniards Mas-a-ticrra, or " near the
land,''* while the other, wliich lies three leagues farther west, is termed
in the Spanish language Mas-a-fuero, signi/ying '''-farther o^," or more
remote. It was to the eastern or largest of the two that the discoverer
gave his own name, and it is this which has become celebrated both
in history and romance — in geography and in the drama. 'I'his island
was so highly spoken of f)y the early navigators, that it has generally
been considered an earthly paradise ; but when we say that it is a
good resting-place for ships, it receives all the praise that sober truth
can award it. It has been occupied for more than half a century by
Spanish settlers, who erected a battery and built a small town on it.
Since the revolution in South America, the government of Chili have
converted it into a kind of state prison, sending such convicts hither
as are sentenced to hard labour.

The island of Juan Fernandez is in latitude .'33'' 40' S., long. 78^
58' W., being ninety miles eastward of Masafuero, which is in latitude
38^ 46' S., long. 30" 38' W. Variation 13'M2' easterly. .Juan Fer-
nandez is of very irregular shape, about ten miles in length, and five in
breadth. Some have estimated its length at four leagues. It may be
readily known at a distance by its uneven surface, shooting up in many
irregular hills. Still it is not so high as its neighbour Masafuero,
which, when first seen, presents an even surface of elevated table-
land.

The water, as before stated, is convenient, and of an excellent quality,
?ind ships may be furnished with wood at very little trouble. The
valleys are swarming with wild cattle, horses, hogs, sheep, and goats.
The plains and mountains are well covered with moderate-sized timber,
comprising numerous trees of an aromatic character. Tlie myrtle is
the only large limber which came under my observation. Fimento
and cabbage-trees are common ; vegetables and fruit abundant. Here
are radishes, water-cresses, parsley, turnips, and purslain. In the
valleys and woods fruits grow wild, such as apples, pears, peaches,
plums, apricots, figs, cherries, and strawberries. Cedar and sandal-
wood are found on the mountains, but not of the best quahty.
' Fur and hair-seals formerly frequented this island ; but of late they
have found some other place of resort, though no cause for the change
has been assigned. Perhaps the moral atmosphere may have been so
much affected by the introduction of three hundred felons as to become
liupleasant to these sagacious animals. Fish, however, of different
kinds, and of a most excellent quality, abound in the waters around the
shores of the island. Crawfish are also very plenty. Many aquatic
birds visit the west end of this island ; and the forests are tenanted
"With a great variety of land birds of a beautiful plumage. The interior
of the island is very much torn to pieces by volcanoes, and exhibitfj
many barren rocky mountains. Yet the valleys are very fertile, pro-
ducing spontaneously every kind of fruit and vegetable that is com-
mon on tJie Chilian coast of South America.

I The eastern side of the island is now tolerably well cultivated, this
labour being performed by the convicts who are sent hither from Chili.
There were at one lime about three hundred of them on the island,

128 ALEXANDER SELKIRK. [1824

guarded by one hundred regular troops, sent from Valparaiso for that
purpose. It was then considered dangerous for a mercliant-sliip to lie
in the bay at night without keeping a good look-out toM^ards the village,
with all the crew under arms, as the convicts had already made at-
tempts to cut out vessels lying at anchor, for the purpose of making
their' escape. They have lately effected their design, seven years
since the date of this journal, by seizing the American brig Anawan,
Captain Palmer, and compelling him to land them at Copiapo, a small
port on the coast of Chili.

There is a small island lying off the southern side of Juan Fer-»
nandez, called Monkey Key ; and another at tlie south-west side, called
Goat Island, about a mile distant, with fifteen fathoms of water between
them. It is merely an miinhabited rock, however, not even visited by
seals at the present time.

Every schoolboy knows that the island of Juan Fernandez was,
for four or five years, the solitary residence of a Scotch sailor, named
Alexander Selkirk ; he having been left there by his captain, on ac-
count of a quarrel between them. It was from his journal that De Foe
filched tlie materials for his interesting romance of Robinson Crusoe^^
a book that has never been equalled in popularity since the art of print-
ing was discovered — a book that has had, and still has, more influence
on the minds of youth than ever had the legends of chivalry in Spain,
or the dramas of Schiller in Germany.

Many persons, however, are imder the impression that Selkirk was
wantonly and arbitrarily sent on shore here against his will. Such
was not the fact. It was his own proposition to remain on this island,
in preference to continuing on board the Cinque-ports galley, under i.
captain who he thought had ill-treated him, though he held the office
of sailing-master on board the ship. Captain Stradling consented, and
furnished him with the means of procuring the necessaries of life. But
when the ship was ready to sail, Selkirk's resolution was shaken, and
he eagerly made overtures of reconciliation. Stradhng now thought
that it was his turn to be obstinate, and refused to receive the recluse
on board, but left him alone on this solitary island, far beyond the
reach of the sympathies or assistance of his fellow-men. As the last
boat left the island for the ship, then under way, his heart sank within
him, and every hope expired. Well might he exclaim, in the language
which Thompson has put into the mouth of another in ^milar circum-
stances —

-" I never heard

A sound so dismal as tlxeir parting oars.'' '

But Selkirk was not left h©re to perish by famine; the means of
subsistence were furnished him. There were left with him clothes
and bedding, a gun and ammunition, a few books, with certain nautical
and mathematical instruments, and some other trifling implements.
The island abounded with fruits, vegetables, animals, aad all the
necessaries of life, in the greatest abundance ; and he was sole naonarcli"
of the little kingdom. But though he might have thought, as it is beauti-
fully expressed in Covv'per's poem on the subject— >

Jan.] ALEXANDER SELKIRK. 129

" I am monarch of all 1 survey,

My right there is norif to dispute,"'

the subsequent seniiment was doubtless more Trequently present to
his mind :

" solitude, where are the charms
Which sages have seen in thy face?
Better dwelfin the midst of alarms,
Than reign in tliis horrible place."

. For some time alter the departure of the ship, he found the sohtude
of his situation scarcely supportable ; and so depressing did his melan-
choly become, that he frequently determined to put a period to his ex-
istence. According to his own account, it was full eighteen months
before he became completely reconciled to his singular lot ; when he
gradually became calm and resigned, and finally happy. He now
employed his time in building and decorating his huts, exploring the
island, catching wild goats and taming them, with other amusements
and avocations, so accurately detailed in the romance that no one
could doubt the source from whence the facts M'ere derived. When
his garments were worn out, he made others of the skins of such goats
as he killed for food.

^ During Selkirk's residence on this island he caught about one thou-
sand goats, half of which he let go at large again, having first marked
them with a slit in the ear. Thirty years afterward, when Commo-
dore Anson visited this island, he or some of his people shot one of
these very goats ; which I should suppose must have been rather tough
eating. After living in this manner four years and four months, Sel-
kirk was at length taken ofi' by an English privateer from Bristol, which
touched at the island, with her consort, in the month of February, 1709 ;
but did not arrive in England until October, 1711.

Havmg been absent eight years, and supposed by his friends to have
perished, his unexpected return produced considerable sensation among
them. It soon became noised abroad that more than half the period
of his absence had been passed on an uninhabited island of the
Pacific Ocean, when the curiosity of the public became so much ex-
cited, that he reasonably conjectured that he might turn his adventures
to some account ; and as he was much in want of pecuniary assistance
he resolved to try.

He was referred to Daniel De Foe, a young man just then rising into
literary celebrity, into whose hands he put his journal for examination :
proposing to give him a liberal share of the profits if he would prepare
it for the press. After some time, Dc Foe returned the manuscript, with
a discouraging answer, and Selkirk relinquished every hope from this
quarter. In a few years afterward appeared a new romartce, entitled
»* Robinson Crusoe," which at once electrified all the juvenile portion
of the British nation. With unexampled rapidity this work ran through
many successive editions, and was translated into almost every language
of Europe. Abridgments, alterations, and bungling imitations soon
succeeded ; De Foe became rich in fame and wealth,while poor Selkirk,
the journal of whose sufferings had furnished liim with every important

130 ISLAND OF MASAFUERO. [1824.

mcidcnt of the romance, was doomed (o pine in want and obscurity.
The biographers of De Foe have given him mucli praise for having acted
honourably towards his creditors, from whose demands he had been
legally released by the statute of insolvency. They say, " Being
afterward in a state of affluence, he honourably paid the whole." If
tliis alRuence proceeded from the sale of Robinson Crusoe, this com-
pliment to his integrity might better have been omitted.

The time and place of Selkirk's death are not on record ; but it has
been asserted, on undoubted authority, that so late as the year 1798,
tlie chest and musket which he had with him on the island were in
possession of a grand-nephew, John Selkirk, a weaver in Largo, North-
Britain.

I felt almost a romantic interest in examining such places as I knew
had been frequented by the recluse, and which had been accurately
described in the fiction. The harbour, however, near which he fixed
his residence, the better to watch for vessels, is little more than a small
cove, not above one hundred and twenty rods wide at its entrance, and
entirely open to the easterly winds, from south-east to north-north-east.
But the wind seldom blows from these points, except in the winter
season. Here, and from the summit of an adjacent eminence, would
the wretched man watch the distant horizon, until his eyes and his
heart both became insupportably painful. As I descended from the
same eminence, I could not help repeating the words I had heard sung
somewhere, " Alas ! poor Robinson Crusoe !"

CHAPTER X.

Island of Masaftiero — The River Maule — Captain and Crew arrested — A Prison
Scene — Symptoms of a bloody Crisis — Amicable Compromise — St. Valentine's
Day — Guests of Distinction — A nautical Breakfast strangely interrupted — Falso
Colours — Retaliation, or the Yankee Trick — Arrive at Valparaiso — The Wasp
changes Masters — Embark for the United States — Pilot a Ship through Magel-
lan's Strait — Touch at Pemambuco — Arrive at Salem — Gloomy Forebodings,
terminating in a fatal Reality — Visit to Stonington — Affecting Meeting — A
Father's Advice.

From Juan Fernandez we proceeded to the island of Masafuero ;
Avhich, though not yet known in romance, has been somewhat cele-
brated for the immense numbers of seals which have been found on
its shores. Three and a half millions of fur-seal skins were taken
from this island and sold in the Canton market between the years
1793 and 1807; at which time the business was scarcely worth fol-
lowing. But now the island, like its neighbour Juan Fernandez, is
almost entirely abandoned by these animals.

The situation of this island is minutely stated in the last chapter.
It is of circular form, and about twenty miles in circumference. Its
surface is well covered with wood, and is generally very fertile ;
although it has evidently sufiered from frequent volcanic eruptions.

Jan.] ISLAND OF MASAFUERO. 131

The climate here is mild, the air salubrious, the weather generally
pleasant, and the place every way calculated to promote health. For
nine months of the year, the wind uniformly blows from west-south-
west to south-east ; but in June, July, and August, it blows fresh from
all points of the compass, attended with much rain and thick weather ;
particularly when it blows from a northern quarter.

There are a great many goats on this island, the flesh of which is
very tender and palatable food ; this is doubtless owing to the rich-
ness and sweetness of the grass and other vegetables on which they
feed, they being of the finest flavour and highly nutritive. The forests
abound with land-birds of beautiful plumage, and sea-birds visit the
shores m great numbers. But Ireland itself is not more exempt
from serpents and reptiles of every description than is the island of Masa-
fuero.

Wood and water can be obtained here from the east side of the
island, with very little trouble, and a place called the landing is the
most convenient for taking ofl* the water. This may be easily recog-
nised by a single rock, on the southern part of the island, appearing
at a distance like a sail. A little to the north of this rock, by follow-
ing the shore, a small gravelly cove will be found, wdth some small
sand-beaches. At this place is the best water to be foimd, and the
most easy to procure ; although it cannot be seen from the ships, as it
flows in a gully of some depth. The cove is small, and may be
known by a ridge of stones piled upon the shore. In the winter season,
good water is found in all the gullies on the north and east sides of the
island. Fish of a good quality abound in the water near the shore, and
may be easily caught with a hook and line.

In approaching this island, there are no dangers which extend over
half a mile from the shore. On the west side there is a rock, one
mile from the shore, about the size of a ship's deck, with twenty-two
feet of water over it at low tide. This rock is not indicated by any
symptom on the surface, except in very bad weather. From the
north-west point a reef extends out about half a mile. Bring the
north-w'est point to bear west, and you may anchor in twenty fathoms
of water, sandy bottom, about one mile off-shore.

The first ship that ever took a cargo of fur-seal skins from this
island for the Canton market, was the Eliza, Captain Stewart. From
tiiat time to the year 1807, there were constantly more or less ships'
crews stationed here, for the purpose of taking fur-seal skins ; a part
cf which time there were from twelve to fifteen crews on shore at
tiie same time, American and English.

January 16M. — The boats which I had sent in search of seal when
I first aiTived at this island, returned on the evening of Sunday, the
16th, at eight, P. M. During their absence, they had pulled all around
the island, but only succeeded uUaking thirteen fur-seal skins. They
had, indeed, seen about fifty seals on the rocks, which they could not
get at. At nine, P. M., we got under way, and steered for the river
Maule, on the coast of Chili, about half-way between Valparaiso and
Conception ; having a fine breeze from south-south-west, and fair
weather.

132 THE RIVER MAVLE. [1824.

January \9th. — On Wednesday, the 19ih, at eleven, A. IM., we cast
anchor in the river 3Iaule, about one mile within its mouth, in three
fathoms of water, muddy bottom, slieUered from all winds. This
river rises among the mountains of the Andes, and runs nearly a west-
erly course until it empties into the Pacific, in lat. 3-4° 50' S., long.
72° 18' W.

At the mouih of this river there is a bar, covered by thirteen feet
of water in spring tides ; the channel is also narrow, as a cable would
reach across it ; but immediately wiiliin the bar, the breadth of which
is not over half a cable's length, there is four fathoms of water, and
the same depth continues nearly two miles up the river. Vessels on
this coast which require to be overhauled and repaired will find this
port very convenient for that purpose ; as there is a line ship-yard
here, where many small vessels are built, and some even of three
hundred tons. Here is every facility for heaving-out vessels under
two hundred and fifty tons, in order to search for leaks, and make any
repairs that may be found necessary.

The entrance to the river Maule is easily distinguished by a remark-
able monument, which nature has erected, about one hundred yards
from the shore, and about seventy-five yards south of the channel.
This is a mass of white marble, or of some species of rock which
has that appearance, rising about seventy-five feet above the level of
the sea. When seen from the ofling, it bears so striking a resemblance
to a stone church, that it has acquired the appellation of " Church Rocky"
and is so named on the charts. This rock is about two hundred and fifty
feet in length, from east to west, and about seventy-five feet in width.
The interior of its base is a spacious vault, into which the sea flows
through three arches at its western end. Hair-seals find this recess
a very convenient retreat from the ocean, in which they are not ex-
posed to their enemy, man. The roof of this edifice is also peopled
with living creatures ; it being the resort of a species of white sea-
fowl, which resembles the dove in shape. Thus bountiful nature not
only feeds and clothes the humblest of her offspring, but also erects
marble palaces for their accommodaiion. •' Church Rock" is certainly
a great natural curiosity.

On the south side of this river, about two miles from its entrance,
stands the town of Chanco ; and on the opposite shore there is another
called Artillero. About sixty miles farther up the river is the cele-
brated ancient town of Talca.

These places are all small ; as Chanco, the largest of the three,
only contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants ; who are a very indus-
trious people, building ships, and cultivating their plantations ; the lat-
ter being in many instances very handsomely arranged, particularly
those which lie on the banks of the river. Among their productions
I have noticed wheat, maize, pease, pineapples, oranges, lemons,
citrons, apples, pears, peaches, quinces, melons, and strawberries, all
of the largest size and best quality. Among the animals which
abound in this neighbourhood are black-cattle, sheep, and hogs, which
can be procured at a very reasonable price. Poultry of every kind
is cheap here ; while teals and wild ducks may be shot in any quantity.

Feb.] PRISON' SCENE— SYMPTOMS OF A BLOODY CIIISIS. 133

about ten miles up the river. From the channel of the river may be
eaught a great variety of fish, either with a seine or a hook and Ime.

As soon as we had moored the vessel, we commenced overhauling
her sails and rigging, which had become considerably impaired since
our refitting at Coquimbo, in the preceding August, as mentioned in
Chap. Vlll. We also cleared out the hold, and resalted our seal-skins ;
M hile a part of the crew were cutting wood, and others were engaged
in scraping and repainting the vessel. These necessary duties were
not completed until the 13th of February, when we once more found
ourselves in readiness for sea. But owino- to the neap tides, and the
filling up of the bar, which left but six feet of v/ater above it, we were
compelled to delay our departure for a short time.

February 13M. — As the crew required a little relaxation, I now
gave them liberty to go on shore, and enjoy a stroll about the town
and the adjacent country. At about five o'clock in the afternoon, I
also went on shore myself, for the purpose of calling on a friend of
mine who resided there : an English gentleman, by the name of Henry
Williams, Esq. The moment I landed, I learned that the governor
had just arrived in town, it being his first appearance there since I
had been in port. I therefore informed my friend Williams that I
thought it proper to pay my respects to him immediately. He agreed
with me that such a step was strictly in accordance with etiquette,
and would be received as a compliment by his excellency.

We accordingly set ofl' together for the governors palace ; but had
scarcely proceeded fifty rods, before we M*ere met by a military guard,
commanded by a sergeant, who ordered me to accompany them to the
guard-house, without assigning any reason for such an arbitrary pro-
cedure, except that he was acting according to orders. This, I thought,
was meeting my intended civility with a vengeance, and astonished as
I was, I could not .forbear asking my friend if this was a specimen of
the courtesy and etiquette to which he had just alluded. He, how-
ever, was as much surprised and chagrined as myself; and told the
officer that he should accompany me, and demand an explanation of
the governor.

' The guard-house, as this fellow called it, was neither more nor less
than a prison, and the reader may guess my astonishment, when, on
entering its gloomy walls, I found twenty-two of my crew, as fine
fellows as ever fought for '•'■free trade a?id sailors' riglits^'' seated
around in different parts of the room, under guard like myself, and the
governor shting as judge and jury. My English friend was at my
side, and as we advanced, his excellency made an attempt to rise and
bid me welcome. By this time, however, I had received some signifi-
cant glances from my bra\ e men, accompanied with such meaning-
gestures as could not be misunderstood, each man having his right
hand in his bosom. I instantly saw how the land lay, and knowing
the mettle and fidelity of my men, I turned my back on his excellency,
without deigning to notice his profiered courtesy, and addressed my
men — " Well, my lads, what are you doing here V

Every one was on his feet as I spoke, and each had, as it were

134 AMICABLE COMPROMISE. [1824^

imperceptil)!}', placed himself by the side of a soldier. In reply to my
question one of ihcm said, with an emphasis of much meaning, " We
are doing noiiiing at present, captain, but shall soo7i be very busy."

I told them to attempt nothing without my orders, as I hoped to ob-
tain justice without proceeding to extremities. "Should this not be
the case," I added, " the signal word will be liberty or death /" I then
turned to the governor, and accosted him in a tone which I thought
suitable to the emergency, and in his own language.

"By wliat authority, sir, do you commit this outrage? And for
Avhat cause are my crew and myself dragged within tlie walls of this
prison ? This question, sir, requires an immediate answer."

The governor replied, that it had been reported to him that my
vessel was a Spanish privateer; and that he should detain us until
he was satisfied to the contrary. I rejoined that my crcv/ were all
American and English seamen; that the Wasp sailed under the United
>States' flag ; a flag which could never be dishonoured with impunity ;
and that I was determined not to be trifled with. I therefore demanded
that my crew should be instantly liberated, and allowed to go on
board the vessel unmolested, or some innocent blood would be spilt in
a very few minutes.

I now advanced to his excellency's elbow, and laying my hand on
my dirk, continued —

"You see these gallant seamen, sir — lads that never knew fear —
each with a trusty weapon in his grasp — there are twenty-two of them
— see how their eager gaze is fixed on me — were I to pronounce
one word, or make the slightest signal, these twenty-two freemen, sir,
■^vould instantly assail your garrison. But to show you that I do not
wish to see blood spilt when it can be avoided, I consent to remain
on shore this night, if my crew are immediately set at liberty."

My friend Williams here stepped forward and ofiered to give secu-
rity for ten thousand dollars, if it was required, that I should remain
on shore until the governor vv^as satisfied respecting the character of
the Wasp. To this proposition his exaellency now readily acceded,
and in a few minutes my crew were all on board. The governor then
expressed his regret at what had occurred ; and assured me that
nothing was farther from his intentions than to insult the flag of a
friendly nation, or to be deficient in the rites of hospitality. He
therefore insisted that Mr. Williams and myself should accompany
him to his residence, and drown all animosities in a cup of tea. We
did so ; and the evening was passed in a very social friendly manner.

February I4th. — On the following morning, in conformity to pre-
vious arrangements, the character of my vessel was to be ascertained
by actual and personal inspection ; and my friend Williams volun-
teered to forfeit his whole fortune if every thing was not found to be
correct on board the Wasp. Accordingly, at half-past seven o'clock,
the whole party was ready to proceed, consisting of the governor,
the collector, the captain of the port, the general, and several mer-
chants of the first standing in the place, together with my English
friend and myself. On reaching the vessel they were received with a

Feb.] RETALIATION, OR THE YANKEE JOKE. 135

salute, and every other testimony of respect which national etiquette
has rendered customary on such occasions. After showing them
every thing worth seeing on deck, with which they appeared much
pleased (as the vessel had just been thoroughly repaired, and every
tiling was in order), I directed their attention to our national flag, which
was proudly waving at the main-royal-mast head. The American-
stars, of course, received some compliments from my honourable
guests, to which I made a suitable reply, and led the way to the cabin,
where as good a breakfast as their market could furnish was smoking
on the table.

In a few minutes we were all seated at the breakfast-table, directly
over which was a large sky-light, now uncovered for the benefit of the
fresh air. Through this spacious opening my guests frequently gazed
upwards to the star-spangled banner waving over their heads, and always
with some allusion to the glorious cause of liberty. Pleasure beamed
in every eye, and every visage glowed wi^h jocular good-humour and
the ardour of patriotism.

We had probably been thus engaged for about fifteen or twenty miur
iites, when the sudden report of one of our guns startled every man at
table like a shock of electricity. All eyes were turned upwards, and
were almost blighted at the spectacle they beheld. The banner of
despotic Spain was now waving where the flag of freedom had just
before been seen. Everyone of my thunderstruck guests dropped his
knife and fork in dismay, and some of them started from the table and
attempted to rush upon deck. But they found the companion-way
guarded by a double sentry, who permitted no one to pass. All now
reseated themselves in silent consternation, while every eye was directed
to me for an explanation. I first broke silence in the following words : —

" Gentlemen, you are all prisoners of war to the Spaniards ; cap-
tives under that flag from which you have wickedly revolted. Now
3iiark me ! Unless you ransom yourselves in two hours, with the sum
of ten thousand dollars, I shall take you all to Chiloe, and deliver you
up to General Quintenela."

So soon as they could recall their scattered senses, they saw the
reasonableness of this proposition, and called for pen, ink, and paper,
to execute draughts for the sum required. When I had enjoyed theii'
perplexity for some minutes,T thus accosted them: —

" Gentlemen, yesterday you saw fit to practise a very serious joke
upon me ; this morning, being the feast of St. Valentine, has furnished
me the opportunity of a pleasant retort. Myself and crew were last
evening in your custody — you are now in mine. I have had my re-
venge without bloodshed. We are once more on an equal footing.
The star-spangled banner of my beloved country is again flouting over
us. We are all freemen — we are all republicans. So, gentlemen, if
you please, we will resume the pleasures of the table, and finish our
breakfast whh renewed appetites, and the same good-humour which
distinguished its commencement."

This unexpected explanation instantly restored every thing to its
original state of harmony and jocularity. Every face glowed with
pleasure, and every eye beamed with amity and confidence. All united

136 VALPARAISO— PxVSSAGE HOME. [1824.

in confeissing tliat this was the pleasantest breakfast they ever partook
on sliipboard.

In due thiie I accompanied my guests on shore ; and on the same
evening the governor gave a splendid ball in honour of the " Ya?ik€€
joke,'^ as he called it, at the same time informing his guests, that as
the festival of St. Valentine had been commenced ■with a breakfast on
the water, he was determined to have it concluded with a supper on
shore. From tliis time to the day of our sailing we were treated with
the most marked attention and respect by all classes, from the highest
to the lowest.

February 22d. — The river continued closed until Satm-day the 21st,
when we put to sea, and steered for Valparaiso, where we arrived on
the following day, and at 3, P. •NT., came to anchor in five fathoms of
water, sandy bottom. After paying the necessary visits on shore, I
found an opportunity of shipping my cargo of seal-skins to the United
States, by the ship Endeavaur, of Salem, Captain Elwell ; I then sold
the Wasp to Mr. Hogan, the American consul ; taking in payment
bills on the United States.

Felruary 2Sth. — Having completed all my business, and taken pas-
sage for my crew to the United States, I took leave of my worthy friend
Hogan, and went on board the ship Endeavour. On Saturday, the
•28th, at 1 1, A. M., we weighed anchor and put to sea, bound for home,
from which I had now been absent one year and eight months, without
hearing a word from my family. I could not help experiencing some
sensations of regret in taking leave of my faithful little bark, the
AVasp, which had safely carried me through so many dangers and diffi-
culties. It M'as like parting with an old friend, or quitting a scene to
which 'we have long been attached, and with which are associated
many interestinij reminiscences.

Our passage to the Strait of jMagellan was much retarded by the
prevailing southerly winds, so that we did not make Cape Pillar until
the 20th of IMarch. On the following day, at 1, P. jM., we entered the
strait, with the wind from south-south-west, and fair weather. On
the 22d, at 12. M.. we were nearly abreast of Port Famine, where
we took the wind from north-east, attended with fog and light rain.
This v/eathcr continued for about thirty hours, when the wind changed
to the south-east and south-south-west.

March 2it]i. — Having taken leave of the strait at Cape Virgin, we
now once more found ourselves in the Atlantic Ocean, the Endeavour
being the first American sJnp that had ever made this passage. Many
of the natives were seen on this occasion, making their smokes and
inviting us to land ; but knowing that they had no articles of trade,
Captain Elwell declined having any intercourse with them. Nothing
occurred on this passage to change my previous opinion of the safety
and facility Muth which this strait may be navigated by vessels of any
size, which in clear weather may run day and night. Captain Elwell
observes that there can never be any sea to injure a ship lying at an-
chor in any part of the strait ; as the fresh-water grass grows within
a few inches of high-water mark, and the sand and pebbles on the

May.] ARRIVAL AT SALEM. 137

shores have never been disturbed by the agitation of the seas breaking
aorainst the beach.

We continued on our passage, making all the easting that was ne-
cessary before we took the south-east trades. Variable winds and
occasional foul weather attended us, until Monday, the 12th of April;
when, being in lat. 23° S., long. 28° W., we took the north-east trade-
wind ; and on the following day passed between Trinidad and Mar-
tin Vas Rocks. Trinidad Island lies in lat. 20° 32' S., long. 29° 14'
W. Large Martin Vas Rock is in lat. 20° 29' S., long. 28° 50' W.
Variation, 3° 17' W.

Aj>ril 20tl(. — We now shaped our course for Pernambuco, with a
fine breeze from east-south-east, and fair weather. This continued
until the 20th of April, when we arrived at Pernambuco ; and at 4,
P. M., we went in with the boat to the guard-ship, lying in the inner har-
bour, to obtain permission to land. Our application was unsuccessful,
however, and we were obliged to return to our ship again. On the
following day we again set sail, steering for the north, with a fine
breeze from east-south-east. Salem, in the state of Massachusetts,
being our port of destination, we made no unnecessary delay in the
passage, which was attended with variable winds, calms, storms, rain,
and sunshine, and terminated on Tuesday, the eighteenth day of May,
being only twenty-seven days from Pernambuco.

Mai/ ISth. — The sight of one's native land, after a long absence in
a foreign clime, is generally calculated to exhilarate the mind, and fill
it M'ith a thousand agreeable images and associations. Sucii was the
effect produced on the present occasion Mith every mdividual on board
the Endeavour, myself alone excepted. For the last four-and-twenty
hours, my spirits had been unusually depressed. A vague indefinite
idea of some impending calamity hung about me like the nightmare, and
the more I strove to shake it off the heavier it became. The cheerful
animated faces around me only tended to deepen the gloom of my own
sickening fancy, which was teeming with forebodings of the most sombre
character. On entering the harbour of Salem, the same feeling contin-
ued ; and neither the raillery of my companions, the bustle of mooring,
nor the welcome and congratulations of former acquaintances, could
throw a gleam of sunshine through the thick cloud that depressed me.

It was about 9, P. M., when I landed, and was met on the pier by the
owners of the ship, Messrs. Silsbee, Pickman, and Stone, who appeared
to be in excellent spirits, and were very inquisitive to learn the cause
of my dejection, on returning in health and safety from a long and
lucrative voyage. I told them that I was as much at a loss to account
for it as themselves ; and could only attribute it to solicitude respecting
my family, from whom I had not heard a single word during the whole
period of my absence, which was nearly two years ; and that I should
await with extreme anxiety the arrival of letters from Stonington.

In due time a letter came. I was pacing my room alone, lost in
deep reflection, M'hen a servant entered, and put it in my hand. The
post-mark was Stonington — the handwriting was my father's. I
hastily turned it, and a large black seal almost blasted my eye-
sight. The servant had departed, and for some moments I stood

138 DOMESTIC AFFLICTION. [1824.

gazing at the seal, without suflicient resolution to break it. At length
a silent monitor within me seemed to say, in a tone of reproach, "Are
you not a man?" I rallied my senses, and exclaimed aloud, "Yes, I
am a man, and one wliose firmness is not to be shaken by danger or
afiliction, come in what shape they may. All tliat man can bear I can
suffer with calmness."

The utterance of this vaunting speech instantly stilled the violent
tremor of my nerves, and restored my wonted coolness. My hands
trembled not as I broke the sable seal — I was perfectly calm and col-
lected while I opened and unfolded the letter — my lips quivered not as
I read ilie date and the words " My dear Son." I dropped my eyes
to the fourth line below — a cloud came over the rest — and where was

my boasted manhood 1

********

My wife and tv^o children — comprising all my little family — were
no more ! They had for some time been mouldering in the dust, and
I knew it not ! I was alone in the world ! like a tree on the desert,
stripped of its branches ! I had long anticipated a joyous meeting,
and this was the result ! I remember heaving a groan — almost a
shriek burst from my bosom. The rest is all a blank.

I afterward learned that some of the family entered my room for
the purpose of summoning me to tea, in about an hour after the servant
had delivered me the letter. They found me seated in an arm-chair,
as they thought, a lifeless corpse. Their screams of terror soon
brought the rest of the family to the scene of alarm, and the usual
restoratives were promptly applied. Medical aid was procured as
speedily as possible ; and in about an hour I began to evince some
hidications of returning consciousness. At half-past seven my sight and
recollection partially returned. I saw about a dozen people of both
sexes about me, but could not for some time fully comprehend my real
situation. When I did awake to a full sense of it, my reason was
shaken from its throne, and they say I raved like a maniac — alternately
calling for my wife and children to come to me, and relieve me from
my torments. This paroxysm, however, was of short duration, and
I gradually became more rational and calm. I now perceived that
every eye in the room vras streaming with tears, except my own. Mine
"were dry and hot, and my throat was parching.

Explanation was unnecessary : they had seen the fatal letter lying
on the floor, and a very natural and pardonable curiosity had prompted
them to seek in that for the cause of my situation. Their sympathy
operated like a cordial to ray feelings ; and now, for the first time, I
could have wept — but the idea of its being unmanly prevented me ;
and this unnatural struggle against overpowering feelings procrastinated
my recovery, and might, in fact, have been the proximate cause of my
fit in the first instance. But I had imbibed from my earliest infancy
an idea, very prevalent among the hardy sons of New-England, espe-
cially those who are destined to bufi'et the billows of Neptune, that a
tear on a masculine cheek evinces a weakness incompatible with daring
enterprises. I know it is an error ; but it is one that has assisted in
making many fine seamen and excellent soldiers. I have often suflered

May.] DOMESTIC AFFLICTION. 139

from adhering to it, as in the present instance. A paroxysm of tears
would have restored me to my usual calmness ; but then I dreaded
the blush that must follow, when the cheek was dry.

As soon as my throat became sufiiciently relieved, and I dared to
trust my voice, I thanked my friends for their attention, and assured
them that I did not apprehend a relapse. I then sank back in my
chair, and breathed a silent ejaculation to an ear that is never closed
to the aspirations of sorrow and humility : '• Thy v*'ill, O Lord, be done.
Pardon a worm of the dust for presuming to murmur at thy righteous
judgments. O gi-aciously sanctify tliis aiiiiction to my soul, that it
may be good for me to have been afflicted. Give me strength to en-
dure the struggle with manly fortitude, and even with gratitude. Shall
not the Judge of all the earth do right ! Have mercy upon me, for I
am weak — thou knowest that we are but dust. They are not dead —
they live in heaven ; and O gTant me grace still to endure the trials
and troubles of this transitory life : — I ought not to wish them back to
share in such troubles, but manfully to wrestle alone. Misfortunes,
dangers, hardships, and disappointments have, for some gracious pur-
pose of thy divine providence, attended me from infancy to the present
hour. Teach me to be resigned — grant me grace to be thankful."

Though I am ashamed to shed tears, I am not ashamed to publish
to the world that the above humble ejaculation, rather thought than
whispered, instantly restored my mind to calmness and serenity.
Should any doubt it, I advise them to try the experiment in sincerity ;
they will then doubt it no more.

The unaftected sympathy of my noble-hearted tars also afibrded
me much consolation ; I mean such as returned with me to the United
States, three of whom are nov/ residing in the city of New-York, viz.
jMessrs. Charles Cox, WilHam Cox, and John Simmons — as worthy,
manly, and brave men as ever sailed under the flag of any nation.
The same remark will apply, v.'ith equal justice, to two young gentle-
men, named Pratt and ?\Iurray, of Connecticut. As soon as they heard
of my affliction, they came to administer consolation, and bind up the
wounds of my heart. They v/ere not Job's comforters.

The Wasp's cargo of seal-skins, brought home in the Endeavour,
consisting of about seven thousand, was soon landed in the best order ;
and in a few days afterward two of the owners, Messrs. Rogers and
iNI'Intyre, who came on from New- York for the purpose, caused the
whole to be sold at public sale, the proceeds of which gave them the
most entire satisfaction.

These gentlemen then requested me to accompany them to New-
York, and select any vessel v/hich I considered suitable for another
voyage of two years or upwards to the Paciflc Ocean, which they
would immediately purchase and commit to ray charge. I readily ac-
ceded to the proposal, for home had now few charms for me, since
the tenderest ties of my heart had been severed by the king of terrors.
One sacred duty, however, v/as first to be fulfilled. This was to visit
my aged father, who had also drunk of the cup of aflliction to its very
dreffs. Accordinolv, as soon as mv business was all settled in Salem,
I lost no lime in proceeding to Stonington.

14Q A FATHER'S COXSOLATIOX. [1824.

I IouirI my father in good health ; but our meeting vas painfully
aflecting. Such scenes can better be imagined than described. I
thought that I had screwed my " courage to the sticking-place," and
that '^it could not fail. But I was mistaken. I gave him my hand
witli a determination to betray no emotion, and to keep my feelings in
complete subjection. He grasped it convulsively, and essayed to
j^pcak — but he was too much agitated. He turned away his face to
conceal his tears, which were now falling like rain. I could play the
stoic no longer. The sobs of anguish were tearing his aged bosom.
1 tlircw myself in his arms, and Me wept aloud.

My father was the first to rouse himself from this temporar}- " melt-
ing mood," so unusual to us both, and soon became calm and com-
posed. He made an effort to speak, and succeeded.

'• My son," said he, " this must not be. It is wrong to murmur
against the dispensations of a merciful Providence, who orders every
thing for the best, and who only chastens those he loves, for the
gracious purpose of reforming and making them eternally happy. * The
Lord gave, the Lord hath taken away, and blessed be the name of the
Lord.' Those who aspire to perform great actions should never suffer
any relaxation in that mental discipline which keeps the passions in
subjection. You were born for higher purposes than to play the woman.
The ambitious and daring spirit which you have ever evinced from
early childhood — your recklessness of danger — ^}''our love of travel,
and enthusiastic devotedness to every manly pursuit in which you
engage, — are all favourable indications of future success and honour.
Such used to be the theme of your boyish prattle; and I trust your
juvenile dreams may be yet realized.

" You therefore should never give way to those sensitive feelings,
v.hich, however natural and amiable in themselves, are only becoming,
as to outward expression, in females, infants, and the aged. Men of
enterprise and ambition should always retain their presence of mind
in the most trying emergencies, whether of trouble or of danger. As
it is said in one of our beautiful hymns their fortitude should remain
unshaken.

Though earth were from her centre toss'd,
And mountains in the ocean lost,
Torn piecemeal by the roaring tide.'

" This, my son, is my advice ; and may I never again thus see you
off your guard. For me there is more excuse. I am old — and you
know, Benjamin, that my afflictions are of no ordinary kind. To lose
wives and children in the ordinaiy course of nature can be borne with
humble resignation. But to lose a wife — to lose sons as I — " Here
the poor old man was obliged to change the subject, and it was several
days before he ventured to renew it.

In the mean time I recounted to him and the rest of the family all
the little incidents of my wanderings for the last two years ; and made
them acquainted with the arrangements I had made for another voyage
of equal length to the Pacific Ocean. The allotted period of my visit
soon expired ; but previous to my departure for New-York, my father

June.] A FATHER'S ADVICE. Ul

resumed the broken thread of his former discourse, nearly in the fol-
lowing words, which are deeply engraven on my memory : —

" My son, as you are about to embark on another long and perilous
voyage, I wish you to pay attention to my counsel ; for age and ex-
perience, as well as my parental relationship and singular misfortunes,
all entitle me to the privilege of giving you advice. I have lived long,
and suffered much. I have never wronged any person, knowingly,
of the value of a cent. I have never passed the poor and distressed
without giving them such assistance as was in my power, without neg-
lecting duties of equal importance. I iiave, at limes, accumulated a
great deal of property, by hard labour and honest industry. This has
been again wrested from me, often by the deceit, fraud, and villany of
my fellow-creatures — sometimes by the remorseless elements. 1 have
lost nine of my family by death ; six of whom, including your mother,
were drovrned at different times. In short, a minute history of my
misfortunes woidd fill a volume. I have borne up against the weight
as well as I could ; and yet it is pressing me towards die grave. I
believe, however, that there are thousands in the world who would
have sunk under the load, and embraced despair. But my trust is in
One that cannot err. ' Though he slay me, yet will I trust in him.'

" Thus, my son, you see the advantages of manly fortitude ; and
whatever your troubles or condition may be in this life, let this short
precept be yom- constant guide — ' Do your duty to-day, and leave the
morrow to Heaven.' Do to others as you would have others do to you
under similar circumstances. Be just and humane to all, particularly
to those who are subject to your power. Treat your seamen kindly,
and they will serve you with the greater fidelity. Remember that the
meanest individual has feelings that ought to be respected ; and that
we shall all one day meet where the servant will be equal to his former
master. Distress no man. Be charitable to the poor, the widow, and
the orphan.

" As a ship-master, my son, never forget that you are the steward
of others' property, and that he who is not faithful over a little will
not be faithful over much. Exert yourself for the interest of your em-
ployers. Shrink not from hardships or dangers. Be not lifted up in
prosperity, nor meanly depressed in adversity. Be bold and cheerful
in all conditions of life. Treat every man with the respect due to his
real merit. Be gentle and easy in your manners. Speak evil of no
one. Shun intemperance as you would a Norwegian whirlpool ; for,
once within its fatal vortex, there is no escape for body or soul. Shun
bad company. Love your Creator, and fear to offend him. Do all
the good you can for your fellow-creatures. Be one of the foremost
in defence of your country's liberty and honour. Never let passion
become the master of your reason ; for this is tolerating a mutiny more
dangerous to your own welfare than that of a rebellious crew. He is
not fit to command a great ship who has not first learned to command
the little cock-boat of his own heart.

" In the hour of danger, my son, never allow yourself to become
confused ; but be always calm, cool, and deliberate ; for where there
is confusion there is always danger of error in judgment. Be decisive

142 A FATHER'S ADVICE. [1824.

in your plans, and have confidence in your own decision. Bully no
man — injure no man — fear no man. Thus, my son, you have the
counsel of your aged and affectionate parent ; one that is acquainted
with sorrow, and familiar with grief. May Heaven have mercy on
you, and prosper you in all your just and lawful undertakings.

" One more suggestion, and I have done, lie that would lead a life
of usefulness must live for others, and not for himself; and that you
are destined for such a life is plainly indicated by the physical and
moral gifts with which you are endowed. Unavailing and unmanly
grief is incompatible with a proper exercise of these faculties, and de-
stroys the powers of usefulness. Overcome yours, my son, and labour
to forget its cause as soon as possible. The most effectual antidote
that can be recommended to a man like you, in the prime of manhood,
with considerable property, and no incumbrances, is to unite the broken
cord of affection to the heart of another. A speedy second marriage
would restore your happiness, and extend your usefulness. You would
then have an additional inducement to achieve noble projects, and a
centre point of attraction to call you home, when your duties were ac-
complished."

SECOND VOYAGE

TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN, SOUTH SEAS, &c.

CHAPTER I.

Preparations for the Second Voyage — The Schooner Tartar selected and pur-
chased for the Purpose— A Matrimonial Contract — The Voyage commenced —
Island of Fernando IVoronha, and the Roccas — Bahia, or the Bay of All Saints
— City of St. Salvador — Directions for entering the Harbour — Sail from Bahia —
Island of St. Catharine's — Island of Lobos — Rio de la Plata — Monte Video and
Buenos Ayres — The Falkland Islands — Strait of Magellan — Peninsula of the
Tliree Mountains — Social Affections of Seals — Moral Reflections.

In pursuance of previous arrangements, I proceeded to New-York,
and immediately called on my former employers, Messrs. Byers,
Rogers, M*Intyre, and Nixon, who requested me to look about among
the shipping for a suitable vessel to perform the contemplated voyage.
Finding no one in the port of New- York which exactly pleased me, I
proceeded to Philadelphia, and from thence to Baltimore ; but with
no better success. I had the good fortune, however, to return to
New- York just as the schooner Tartar arrived from Curacao ; a sharp
fast-sailing vessel, of one hundred and fifty-four tons — in short, the very
craft I wanted. ^

I hastened to inform the above-named gentlemen of my success,
who immediately struck a bargain for the Tartar, had her newly cop-
pered, and jn every respect completely equipped for a long voyage.
Provisions, salt, and every thing necessaiy or convenient for the enter-
prise were liberally furnished by the owners; so that on the IStli of
July, 1824, the Tartar was lymg in the North River, in every respect
ready for sea.

Constant activity, the bustle of business, and the natural excitement
of my present occupations, afforded very little room for melancholy
reflections ; especially as every hour's relaxation was spent in the
cheerful and affectionate society of my sisters, my cousins, and a few
of their fair and amiable friends. One of these pretty cousins had
long been a favourite with us all. She was a sprightly, amiable little
girl, not yet quite five years in her teens ; and possessed the rare fac-
ulty of winning the affections of all around her. I had often in jest, when
I had nothing to bestow, promised to make her my heir ; and I now

144 A MATRIMONIAL ENGAGEMENT. [1824.

formed the resolution of doing so in earnest ; all my nearer relatives being
sufficiently provided for. 1 was on the eve of a long voyage ; life was
uncertain, and if it should be the will of Providence to arrest my
earthly career while at a distance from my native land, I should, at
least, have the consolation of reflecting that my pecuniary affairs at
home were all arranged according to my wishes.

The more I reflected on this subject, the more I became convinced
of its propriety ; and when it presented itself to my mind as it often-
times did, in connexion with the parting advice of my father, I con-
templated its features with a still deeper interest. On such occasions,
I \ ery naturally asked myself, " Why not seek to unite the broken
cords, spoken of by my father, to this amiable heart, where the purest
aflection already exists ? Why may I not find here that centre-point
of attraction which is to correct and restrain the eccentricity of my
wanderings ? Two years hence, if I return in safety, I shall find
Abby Jane a full-blown flower, instead of an opening bud ; the staid
woman instead of the laughing girl. A woman, too, every way cal-
culated to make me happy. If I live to come back, and Abby Jane
be still free, I shall certainly seek to win her. But two years is a
long time, and she may then be another's ! I know of no female like
her. So mild, so gentle, so amiable, so aflectionate to her relatives,
so lenient to the failings of others, so benevolent to the poor, so sooth-
ing to the atflicted, so consoling to the mourner. I could not resign
her to anotlier, unless, indeed, she loved another. Her affections are
now free, but will they remain so ? Before I sail I must solicit her
promise to await my return. She will then be marriageable, and of
sufficient maturity to become the mistress of a family. 1 will make
the trial."

I will not tire the reader with particulars. Let it suffice that I
" wooed and won ;" I obtained the desired promise —

•• She loved me for the dansrers I had passed,
And I loved her ihat she did pity them."

' I now resolved, previous to my sailing, not only to give her a legal
claim to my little property, but also, at the same time, to interchange
the most unequivocal testimonials of otn* mutual sincerity, by having
the marriage ceremony actually performed in the presence of our
friends. This was done. The solemn contract was ratified at the
hymeneal altar. I then committed my virgin bride to the care of her
friends ; gave her a chaste parting kiss, and it was nearly two years
before I saw her again. It was then I followed the advice of my
father, and have ever since blessed the hour that I did so. I flatter
myself that Abby Jane will cordially reciprocate the same sentiment.
She is every thing that a wife and a mother should be. But enough
of my own affairs.

July 19 th, 1824. — The Tartar, as before stated, was ready for sea
on the 18th day of July. On Monday, the 19th, I went on board, and
at one, P. M., we got under way, and proceeded down the bay, with
the wind from south-south-west, and fair weather. At seven, P. M.,
we discharged the pilot ; and at nine, took our departure from Sandy

Aug.] ISLAND OF FERNANDO NORONHA. I45

Hook light, bearing north-west-by-west, distant two leagues ; with a
fine first-rate vessel under our feet, and a strong healthy crew of
twenty-three men, including officers. The crew were mostly young
men, active, enterprising, and chivalric ; reckless of danger or hard-
ships, and ready for adventure of any kind, that was lawful and hon-
ourable.

July ^Ist. — We steered a south-easterly course with light variable
winds, and generally fair weather. On Saturday, the 31st, we took
the north-east trade-winds, from east-norlh-east, and squally ; being
then m latitude 30^ 0' N., long. 52^ 0' W. from Greenwich. On the
following day the wind freshened, and hauled to east-by-south, from
which quarter it continued to blow with little variation, but very light,
for more than a fortnight.

August loth. — AVe finally lost the north-east trades on Sunday, the
15th of August, in latitude 7^ 10' N., long 43^ 15' W. From this'
time our course was much retarded by calms, occasionally interrupted
by light breezes or squalls from south-south-v.'est to south-south-east,
attended with heavy falls of rain. We took every advantage that was
possible of these winds to make southerly, so that twelve days more
brought us to the equator.

August 27tk. — On Friday the 27th, we crossed the equinoctial line
in long. 30° 23' W. At eight, P. JM., we took the wind from south-
east and fair weather. The usual ceremonies were of course ob-
served on this important occasion.

August dOth. — On Monday, the 30th, we were close in with the
west end of Fernando Noronha, an island in the South Atlantic Ocean,
about sixty-seven leagues from the coast of Brazil, lying north-east
from Cape St. Roque, in latitude 3^ 55' S.,.long. 32^ 29' W. This
location refers to the centre of the island, which is about seven miles
long, and two or two and a quarter broad. This island was formerly
appropriated by the Brazilian government to a like purpose with thai
of Juan Fernandez by the government of Chili ; viz. for a place of
exile for theu' vilest criminals, guarded by a garrison of regular troops.
This may account for all its little sandy bays and anchorages being
defended by forts. At present it is inhabited by about two hundi'ed
colonists, sixty of whom are soldiers.

This island is distinguished by a high rocky peak on its north side,
called the Pyramid^ vrhich appears very rugged and barren ; and is
rendered still more remarkable by its south-west point, called the Hoh
in the TFc//, vrhich is pierced through, giving a free passage to the
sea. On the south side is a little rocky isle, strongly resembling a
statue. When viewed from a distance, the Pyramid has the appear-
ance of a very high steeple or tower.

Vessels employed in the southern whale-fisheiy often stop at this
island to procure supplies of cattle, sheep, poultry, wood, vrater, <S:c.
The latter, however, is frequently very scarce ; owing to the rivulets
being all dried up by the drought at particular seasons of the year,
when vegetation also becomes parched and destroyed. Though this is
no uncommon occurrence, it is neither periodical nor regular. There
are but few vegetablrs to be procured here in the best of seasons, but

146 FERNANDO NORONHA— BAY OF ALL SAINTS. [1824.

there is always an abundance of live-stock and fish, with an immense
quantity of doves. Wood may be obtained here, but with some difil-
cuUy, as there is danger of staving the boat which brings it off, it
being nearly as heavy as so much iron, and sinking in the water with
equal rapidity.

On approacliing this island, the navigator will find no soundings
imtil close aboard of it. There is no invisible danger near it except
on the south side, where there are some rocks between two and three
miles from the shore ; and off the south-MCst point, where there is a
rock at the distance of one-fourth of a mile. The principal anchoring
place is on the north side of the island, being sheltered by the north-
eastern land and several little islands in that direction. Here a ship
may anchor, in from ten to twelve fathoms, loose sandy bottom, at
jibout half a mile from the Citadel Point, which is the nearest shore.
There are three months, however, in which the northerly and north-west
winds prevail, when it is not safe to lie close in. These are the
months of January, February, and March. During the rest of the
year the winds are mostly from the south-east and east ; sometimes
north-east.

The southern extremity of the island is called Tobacco Point, from
■which a reef of rocks extends half a mile to the south, even with the
surface of the water. Two miles and a half south-east-by-east from
Tobacco Point there is a rocky reef on which the sea always breaks.
AVhen in a line with these rocks the Pyramid is shut in with the highest
liill on the south side of the island. Between this reef and the shore
there is a channel of from ten to fifteen fathoms.

About seventeen leagues westward of Fernando Noronha are some
reefs or keys, called the Roccas, lying in latitude 3° 52' S., long. 33^
21' W. Variation 4^ 42' W. These low keys or islets are very
dangerous, being sandy spits or banks formed upon coral reefs, with a
little brush or shrubbery growing upon them. They are not discerni-
ble in a fine clear day from the mast-head at a ofreater distance than
three leagues, and are distinguished by a high rock at their north-east
extremity. When within two miles of them, the water shallows grad-
ually from thirty to five fathoms, within a cable's length of the shore,
coral bottom.

Here the current generall}^ sets to the westward, at the rate of one
mile and a half an hour. On these reefs, in 1805, two of the East
India Company's ships were lost, being deceived by the currents,
^vhich have been known at times to run for a day or two at the rate
of three miles an hour, in the direction of west-north-west. The tide
rises and falls here about six feet. I landed on these keys in 1822,
and found perfectly smooth landing on the west side of the large one.

September 5th.- — We left Fernando Noronha, on Tuesday, the 31st
of August, with a fme breeze fi'om east-south-east, and on Sunday
the 5th of September, cast anchor in the Bay of All Saints, in the
Brazilian Province of Baha de Todos Santos^ of which the city of
^t. Salvador is the capital. At nine, A. M., we were safely moored
in five fathoms of water, between Fort do Mar and the city. " Here,"
says Lindley, in his Voyage to Brazil, " vessels riding on clear

Sept.] CITY OF ST. SALVADOR. I47

ground may be sheltered from every wind, and surroimded by a
country exuberantly rich, in a gulf which seems as if formed by na-
ture for the emporium of the universe." By this work we are also
informed, that " the province of Bahia comprises fifty leagues of coast,
and that though one of the smallest provinces of Brazil, it is the most
fertile, populous, and luxuriant."

The Bay of All Saints, is a conspicuous feature on the map of
South America. It is on the south-eastern coast of Brazil, nearly half-
way between the equator and the tropic of Capricorn. The coast
here runs in the direction of north-east and south-west, and this bay
opens to the south, the eastern side of its entrance being a peninsula,
on which stands the city of St. Salvador, in latitude 13° 30' S., long.
38° 24' AV. It is in fact, an inland sea, or gulf, which receives the
waters of several large rivers. The entrance of this bay is seven
miles broad, from the peninsula on the east side to the island of
Taporica, on the west ; and the gulf within is more than thirty-two
leagues in circumference. The extreme point of the entrance, on the
eastern side, is called Cape St. Antonio, on which stands the light-
house, and an antique fort. The lantern of the lighthouse is ele-
vated about one hundred and twenty feet above the level of the sea.

The city of St. Salvador stands on an eminence, at the eastern
side of the bay. It occupies a considerable space ; being situated on
unequal ground, and interspersed with plantations. JMany of the
buildings are old and ill-constructed ; but, as in other Catholic cities,
the churches are the most distinguished edifices. The grand church
of the ex-jesuits is justly considered the most elegant structure of the
city. The cathedral is a large gothic pile, but much dilapidated by
time and the fervid influence of a tropical sun. Besides the churches
within the city, there are two near the bar, called St. Antonio and
Yittoria, wliich form excellent landmarks for navigators. They are
all so situated as to command a fine prospect of the bay and sm-round-
ing country.

The governor's palace, in the royal square, is an old, indifferent-look-
ing building. On one side of this square are the senate-hall and the
prison ; on another, the mint and public ofiices ; and on the third, the
court-house of the relacao. The prison is a spacious, gloomy-looking
edifice, in the construction of which strength alone appears to have
been studied. The dungeons have no doors, but are entered through
grated traps in the ceiling. The principal hall in the first story, which
is well secured, is surrounded by dark cells, or secretos, about six feet
square. These have strong close doors, each furnished with a heavy
chain fastened to a ring in the wall, and were originally constructed
for inquisitorial victims, and those suspected of political ofiences.
There were about two hundred persons confined here for various
crimes, real or alleged, in 1824, and no food is provided for them by
government, nor any indulgence except water. A religious society,
however, called the Miserkordia, or Order of Mercy, is allowed to fur-
nish the poor wretches with meal, soup, and other provisions ; and
obtains the means by soliciting charitable donations in all parts oi
the city.

:k2

148 CITY OF ST. SALVADOR. [1824.

The streets arc narrow, badly paved, and horribly filthy ; and were
it not for the peculiar salubrity of the air, the heat would doubtless
produce very fatal effects on the health of the inhabitarits. For the
line air the city is indebted to its elevated situation ; for it is literally
*' a city that is set upon a hill." The back-yards, generally, are no-
thing but noisome receptacles of filth, unfit for description. Some
exceptions there must be, of course ; and these are found in a few ele-
gant mansions, roomy and convenient, occupied by the opulent. But
even these are shabbily furnished, and not a whit too clean, inside
or out.

The city of St. Salvador is protected by several forts and otlier
works of defence, the principal of which is Fort do Mar, which has
been built more than two hundred years. It stands on a small rocky
bank of ilie inner bay, about half a mile from the shore, and consists
of a castellated tower, of one hundred feet diameter, similar to that on
Governor's Island in the harbour of New- York, surrounded by an ex-
tensive lower battery of a later date. The entire diameter is about
two hundred and seventy feet. The lower battery mounts thirty guns,
vaiying in their caliber from twenty-four to forty-two pounds. From
the level of the lower battery the tower rises perhaps thirty feet ; the
upper battery containing only sixteen gmis, twenty-four and eighteen
pounders. The top is paved with flagstones, sloping towards the
centre, so that all the rain which falls on its surface descends through
a grate into an extensive reservoir below, of capacity sufficient to
supply the garrison for six months. Merchant-ships usually anchor
between this fortress and the city. The custom-house and dock-yard
are on the beach.

The population of St. Salvador is said to be upwards of one hun-
dred thousand ; of these, forty thousand are negroes, and thirty thou-
sand are mulattoes. It is a place of considerable commerce, export-
ing cotton, sugar, coffee, tobacco, lignumvilae, mahogany, satin and
tulip woods, gums, balsams, medical roots, and aqua-ardent, a sort of
i*um. In return, they import from Europe wine, flour, bacalhao, but-
ter, cheese-, salt, &:c. From Africa they receive wax and gold-dust,
in exchange for coarse-printed cottons, spirits, and tobacco. Their
coasting trade is also prosperous, and their inland commerce im-
mense.

The meat market is miserable, the beef being unworthy of the name ;
while mutton, lamb, and veal are nearly unknown. There are no
inns or boarding houses ; strangers who choose to live on shore must
hire the whole or part of a house, and furnish it. There are some
cookshops or eating-houses, which are distinguished by their surpassing
filthiness, and a flag of three colours over the door. There are also
many coffee-shops, which are equally unattractive.

In entering the harbour, a ship will have from fourteen to sixteen
fathoms of water, within half a mile of the eastern shore, deepening
to the westward to eighteen or twenty fathoms, until two-thirds across ;
beyond which heavy ships ought not to proceed. To the westward
of this are overfalls, shoaling from fourteen to six and a half fathoms,
then deepening again to twelve ; and in some places, while yet nearly

Sept.] HARBOUR OF ST. SALVADOR. X4^

three miles east of Taporica, no more than three fathoms will be
foimd.

Vast reefs of rocks lie off the eastern point of Taporica, extending
from the shore to the distance of a mile. A cable's length eastward
of these, the depth is six fathoms, rapidly increasing to twelve, eigh-
teen, twenty-four, and twenty-six fathoms — soft muddy bottom. An
ugly shoal, perhaps a mile in length, Ues about three-quarters of a
mile from Fort do Mar, in the direction of west-north-west three-
quarters west, on some parts of which are only three and a half
fathoms, at three-quarters ebb ; on other parts are ten fathoms, rocky
bottom. Around tliis shoal, however, there is good anchorage. The
watering-place is at a short distance from the south end of the to^vn,
between the latter and Fort St. Pedro. Off the latter is a shoal ex-
tending along-shore, about one-third of a mile distant. This was the
place where the Enghsh sloop of war Bonne Citoyenne grounded, in
1812.

In approaching All Saint's Bay from the north, a good berth must
be given to Cape St. Antonio, as a sandy shoal extends from it, in a
southerly direction, about five miles ; having generally over it from
three to four fathoms of water. At the distance of six or seven miles,
tliis bank may be rounded in eight or ten fathoms. Large ships
should therefore keep at this distance from the point until the light-
house come on with a double-spired convent which stands on a hill,
bearing north eight degrees east ; or until ]Montserrat Point comes open
of Fort Cabo. They should then steer in this direction, giving Fort
Cabo a berth of three cables' length, and proceed up the harbour. .

The best anchorage for ships of war is in ten or twelve fathoms,
with Fort do Mar bearing' north 73^ east, and Montserrat Fort bearing
north 28° west, about a mile and a half from the city. Merchant-
vessels generally lie betvvcen the city and Fort do Mar, near the spot
now occupied by the Tartar.

September Gth. — We commenced filling water, and getting some
ironwork repaired which we had carried away on our passage out.
From the American consul I received every attention and assistance
that kindness and politeness could prompt ; and many of the merchants
imitated his example. I was also very politely treated by the officers
of government. liOrd Cochrane, likewise, who was at this lime in
port, together with his oliicers, showed me some marked civilities.
Our repairs were soon completed, and the vessel well supplied with
water and fresh provisions.

September 10//f. — Having taken leave of our friends, we weighed
anchor, and got under way on Friday, the 10th of September, at two
P. M., and resumed our course to the south, with light trade-winds
Jrom east to east-north-east, and fair weather. On Sunday, the 19tli,
we lost the south-east trade-winds, in lat. 26° 30' S., long. 47° 4' W.
Variation 7° 13' easterly.

September 20th. — On the following day we passed along the eastern
shore of Arvoredo, an island near St. Catharine's, the latter being a
principal island on the coast of the south part of Brazil. The centre

150 ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE'S. [1824.

of the eastern point of Arvoredo is in lat. 27° 16' S., long. 48° 1'
W. At seven A. M. we were close in witli the east side of St. Catha-
rine's, the north-east point of which is in lat. 27° 26' S., long. 48° 24
W. Variation 8° 7' easterly.

This island presents a beautiful appearance while approaching it
from sea. The port or anchorage is easy of access, and well sheltered ;
and I would recommend this port, in preference to any other on the
coast, as a stopping place for whalemen and others to procure re-
freshments. The inhabitants are honest and lionourable in their deal-
ings with strangers, not permitting any impositions to be practised on
them. They are friendly to all foreigners, particularly from the
United States. By showing a due degree of politeness to the gov-
ernor, captain of the port, collector, &c., accompanied with a few
presents, a ship-master will secure a prompt attention to his interests,
and find himself ultimately the gainer. I learned this fact by touch-
ing here while I was mate of the Wasp, in 1820. Wood and water
of an excellent quality can be had here in great abundance ; as can
also provisions and fruit of every description : fish alone are scarce.
Beef, pork, fowls, &;c. are very cheap. The climate is healthy, the
harbour excellent, the inhabitants liberal and accommodating.

The scenery in the island of St. Catharine's is embellished by its
steep and conical rocks, and the wood-covered mountains on the neigh-
bouring continent, from which it is separated by a narrow strait or bay.
" Nothing," says Commodore Porter, " can exceed the beauty of the
great bay to the north, formed by the island of St. Catharine's and
the continent. There is every variety to give beauty to the scene —
handsome villages, and houses built around shores which gradually
ascend in mountains, covered to their summits with trees which re-
main in constant verdure ; a climate always temperate and healthy ;
small islands scattered here and there, equally covered with verdiu'e ;
the soil extremely productive ; all combine to render it, in appearance,
the most delightful country in the world." The commodore is cor-
rect ; and he might have added that the summer heats are agreeably
tempered by refreshing breezes from the south-west and north-east.
The former continue from April to August ; the latter from September
to March. This island was at one time covered with lofty trees ; but
the most of them have been cut down and used in ship-building. The
soil in the interior is humid and very fertile, and an extraordinary pro-
fusion of flowers indicates a genial climate. The jessamine and the
rose are in bloom throughout the year.

In entering this port from the north, it is best to steer between the
islands Gal and Arvoredo, leaving a small rocky island on the right,
called St. Pedro. " The latter lies three and a half miles west-north-
west of Arvoredo. A south-south-west and south-west-bv-south course
leads directly to Fort Santa Cruz. The anchorage is perfectly safe
everywhere, whether to the northw^ard or southward of the fort ; yet
it is better to anchor to the southward, as well on account of com-
munication with the town, as of the vicinity to the village of St.
Miguel, where the best water is to be procured. In coming to St.

Sept.] RIO DE LA PLATA— MONTE VIDEO. 151

Catharine's from the south, yow steer between the island of Arvoredo
and that of St. Catharine. This passage is perfectly safe."*

September ^Qth. — After leaving this island in our wake, we pursued
the same course towards the south, wafted along by moderate breezes
from nortli-east to north-west, mnil Sunday, the 26th ; when, at four
A. M., we saw the island of Lobos, near the mouth of the river La
Plata, lying four miles to the south of the east point of Maldonado,
which is the northern boundary of this great river on the coast. Its
southern coast boundary is Cape St. Antonio, bearing south-south-west
one-quarter-west from the eastern extremity of Maldonado. Rio de
la Plata's immense mouth is, consequently, forty-one leagues in breadth ;
though some geographers call the distance one hundred and fifty miles.
The narrow, rockv islet Lobos, just mentioned, is in lat. 35° 1' 30"
S., long. 54^ 46' W.

The Rio de la Plata is a river of the first rank, being formed by-
the union of the three great rivers Paraguay, Uragua, and Parana ;
which have themselves been previously augmented by the waters of
the Pilcomayo, Solado, Tercero, and the Rio Grande. Two of these
rivers have their rise near the two opposite" coasts of South America;
from whence their course is, nnlike all other rivers, directly y}'om their
neighbouring oceans, into the heart of the country. The south-eastern
sources of the Parana are within fifty miles of the Atlantic, while the
Pilcomayo has its rise among the Andes, near Potosi, about the same
distance from the Pacific Ocean. They then flow towards each other,
and ultimately unite with many other streams to form that immense
assemblage of waters named Rio de la Plata, which finally changes
its course and empties into the Atlantic. This river is so wide at
Buenos Ayres, which is two hundred miles inland from its mouth, that
the opposite shore is not to be discerned from that town ; and at
Monte Video, which is nearly one hundred miles up the river, neither
shore can be seen from a vessel in the middle of the channel !

I visited jNIonte Video and Buenos Ayres in 1819, while mate of the
Spanish brig St. Joseph, Captain Don Michael Juley, and will in this
place briefly state the result of my observations while ascending this
mighty river, or rather estuary. Of course I shall not attempt to give
any sailing directions, but refer navigators to that excellent work en-
titled the " New Sailing Directory," by John Purdy, Esq. The few
remarks which my avocations permitted at that time are merely intro-
duced here for the benefit of the general reader.

Near the east point of Maldonado is Cape Santa Maria, which forms
the northern boundary of the mouth of La Plata, and is in lat. 34^
40' S., long. 54^ 0' 30" W. On doubling this cape and rounding
Point Este, we arrived in the Bay of Maldonado, having passed the
Lobos on its north side. The town of Maldonado, which from the
sea has no very attractive appearance, is built on the brow of a sloping-
hill, two miles from the shore, and is said to contain only about one
thousand inhabitants. We made no stop here, but kept on, in nearly
a westerly course, leaving a small island, called Flores, on the star-

* M. Krusenstern.

152 MONTE VIDEO— BUENOS AYRES. [1824.

board quarter, and passing Point Brava, about four leagues farther
west, until we finally anchored in four fathoms of water, about two
miles from the town of Monte Video, which is situated on the north
bank of this great river, about sixty miles from its mouth, in lat. 34^
54' S., long. 56° 14' W., being about one hundred and twenty miles
east of Buenos Ayres.

Monte Video, which is the capital of a republic bearing the same
appellation, extending from Rio de la Plata to the southern boundary
of Brazil, derives its name from a mountain in the vicinity of the port,
on which is a lighthouse, built on a gentle ascent, and fortified. This
city was built by a Spanish colony from Buenos Ayres, and was for
a long time a bone of contention between Spain and Portugal. When
Buenos Ayres at last threw off the Spanish yoke, the Brazilian gov-
ernment seized on that event as a pretext for taking forcible possession
of Monte Video. It was recovered by the republicans, m 1814, after
a long siege, and again retaken by the Brazilians, in 1821. In 1828
it became what it now is, by treaty.

The streets of the city are wide, straight, and well paved. The
houses are generally of one story, with flat roofs ; the principal build-
ing of the place being a cathedral. The climate is said to be moist,
agitated by frequent storms in the summer ; and the cold is generally
severe in the winter months of June, July, and August. It is, how-
ever, considered the best port in the La Plata, and an extensive trade
is" earned on in tallow, ox-hides, and salt beef. Their imports are
manufactured goods, coffee, sugar, 6ic. The population has been va-
riously estimated, and is, perhaps, about fifteen thousand ; consisting
of Spaniards, Creoles, and slaves. The town has been greatly injured
by different sieges and contests.

The cattle are very abundant in the interior, grazing on the plains
of ]Monte Video, and are of larger size than those in the neishbour-
hood of Salamanca, in old Spain, which are said to be the largest in
that country. They are as useful to the inhabitants as the reindeer
or camel to the liaplanders or Arabs. Independent of their flesh and
hides, cups, spoons, combs and pitchers are madeof tlieir horns, while
soap and candles are obtained from their tallow. The wild oxen are
easilv tamed, and miiiht become a source of wealth in the hands of a
more industrious people.

From the town of Monte Video, or, as' some call it, the city of St.
Philip, to Buenos Ayres, the course is from south-west to west-north-
west, varying occasionally to accommodate circumstances. The de-
scending current runs at the rate of about three miles an hour, though
some have reported that they found its velocity to be twice that amounts
At the river's mouth, indeed, the current is so rapid as to freshen the
water for some distance in the ocean.

Buenos Ayres was founded in 1535, by Don Pedro Mendoza, who
gave it that name on account of the salubrity of its climate. It is
built in the middle of a plain, on the south side of the river Plata, about
seventy leagues from its mouth, and is in lat. 34° 35' S., long. 58° 31'
W. The situation is very agreeable and healthy, the temperature of
the atmosphere being nearly the same throughout the year. It is so

Sept.] CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. I53

moist, however, that the floors of the rooms exposed to the south are
always damp ; and walls, havmg the same aspect, are covered with
3noss, and the roofs with grass. This humidity, it seems, is not at
all prejudicial to heahh in that climate.

There is no harbour at Buenos Ayres, nor even so much as a mole
or wharf to facilitate the landing of boats. Ships of any burthen can
only approach within eight miles of the town, where they anchor in
what is called the outer road. Smaller vessels proceed three or four
miles farther, and anchor in the inner road, which is much nearer the
city. The cargoes are taken out by lighters or boats, and are con-
veyed on shore through a little river or channel called Rio Chuelo,
where the merchandise is put into carts, and conveyed to its place of
destination.

AVhen viewed from the anchorage, the city has a stately and even
a magniiicent appearance ; although it lies low, as the flat on which it
is built is only about eighteen feet above the level of the water. The
houses too, in general, are very low, many of them having no more
than a ground-floor, with a flat roof. They are mostly built of brick
or chalk, and plastered on the outside. But the lofty domes of religious
edifices, rising in bold relief against the sky, produce a very imposing
efl^ect. The most elevated of these are the cathedral, St. Miguel, St.
Domingo, St. Francisco, St. Merced, &c. The citadel, which includes
tlie governor's palace, stands upon the shore, or the bank of the river,
forming one side of the great square, opposite to which stands the
town-hall ; the cathedral and episcopal palace form the other tvv'o sides
of the square, in the centre of which a public market is held daily.

The city is built with great regularity, the streets being straight and
broad, bordered with raised footpaths on each side, like those of the
United States. These footpaths are paved, but ov\h]g to the great
scarcity of stone, the carriage-ways in the middle are left unpaved.
There are several handsome squares wliich at once adorn the city
and promote its health. Most of the houses are furnished with a large
court-yard and a garden. Among the public buildings, besides those
already mentioned, are four monasteries, two nunneries, two hospitals,
royal chapel, college, public library of twenty thousand volumes,
academy, eight public schools, and twelve or fifteen churches. Seve-
ral of these buildings are large and splendid.

?>Iany of the iuhabitants have country-seats, called quintas, where
are produced all kinds of fruit and vegetables ; among which peaches
are said to be remarkably abundant. Melons are also plenty and
cheap. Among the other fruits are grapes, apples, pears, figs, necta-
rines, pomegranates, quinces, apricots, oranges, and lemons. Common
garden vegetables, with the exception of potatoes, are sold in the m«ar-
ket, but not very cheap, as the price of labour is high. Generally
speaking, the environs of the city are well cultivated, furnishing all the
necessaries and many of the luxuries of life in abinulance. Their
wine has to be brought from Spain or Mendoza ; the latter is a city
of Cordova, in the United Provinces of La Plata, at the foot of the
Andes, on one of the sources of t!ie Colorado.

The most expensive article at Buenos Ayres is firewood ; which is

154 BUENOS AYRES— NEW ISLAND. [1824.

the case also at Monte Video ; as in the neighbourhood of these
places there are no forest-trees, and only a few shrubs tliat are hardly
fit for fuel. All their limber for building houses and repairing ships,
comes from Paraguay in rafts. There is a great trade carried on here
in ox-hides and tallow ; their exports and imports being the same as
those of Monte Video.

The population of Buenos Ay res is about seventy thousand, not
more than one-fourth of which are whites ; the rest being negroes,
Indians, and various mixtures of blood. The inhabitants were among
the first in the Spanish provinces that distinguished themselves in the
cause of independence. Their republican era commenced on the
25th of May, 1810. Four years previous, in 1806, it was conquered
by a British squadron, under Admiral Popham and General Beresford.
Soon afterward, the citizens, having recovered from their panic, attacked
their invaders by surprise, and made a great slaughter among them.
In the following vear Whitelock and Crawford came over with rein-
forcements. They were permitted to enter the city unmolested, and
considered their expedition crowned with success, when the citizens
attacked them so suddenly, and with such resistless fury, that a third
part of the English were destroyed. The remainder were glad to
make a truce ; and in February, 1825, England acknowledged their
independence by treaty, as the United States had already done.

The river La Plata M'as first discovered by Juan Dias de Salis, in
the year 1515, and was forjsome time called the river Salis, after
his own name. In sailing up this arm of the sea, he observed some
Indian tents on the shore, and imprudently landed with ten men, who
were all murdered by the savages. It was afterward called Hio de la
Plata, or the " lliver of Silver," from the great quantity of that metal
found by those who first visited the countries adjacent to its banks.
These banks are sometimes overflowed, like those of the Nile, which
renders them very fertile in every thing but timber. Its waters, whicli
abound M'ith fish of various kinds, are clear, sweet, and wholesome ;
and the country on each side is well tenanted by birds of a beautiful
plumage, which build their nests in the shrubbery. Near the entrance
of this river, bearing south-east from the eastern point of Maldonado,
is the island of Lobos before mentioned, near which I left the Tartar
in order to make the above digression.

On finding that there were already men stationed on tliis island for
the purpose of taking fur-seals, I concluded not to stop, but to shape
our course direct for tlie P'alkland Islands, having a fine breeze from
north-north-west, and fair weather.

October 1th. — Nothing material occurred on the passage, unless a
few strong breezes and moderate gales, from various points of the
compass, can be called so, until Thursday, the 7th of October, when,
at six A. M., we cast anchor in Shallop Cove, a place already familiar
to the reader, on the east side of New Island, in three fathoms of
water.*

' V* '" addition to Avhat is said of these islands in the first voyage, it may not be improper to state in
this place that the government of Buenos Ayres look possession of tli'e whole group in 1S20; but
they still remained open for sealing ships of all nations, until a small colony from Buenos Ayres

.was planted therp, under the direction of one Vernet, who called himself g'ovenwr. This maa

Oct.] NEW ISLAND— STRAIT OF MAGELLAN. 155

This place is only fit for small vessels, and requires no other direc-
tions for entering the harbour than to keep clear of the kelp. There
is a small round island lying off the mouth of the cove, which may
be passed, on either side, within a hundred yards, with safety. For
further information, the reader is referred to the aifecting and instructive
narrative of Captain Charles Barnard, of New-York, which work .
contains the only correct chart of these islands that has ever been
published ; it being the result of his own actual surveys, made with
much care, labour, and accuracy. In my first voyage, the reader will
recollect, I made an allusion to this gentleman's sufferings from the
treachery of a shipwrecked crew, who left him to perish on a desolate
island ; I now mention him again, in order to impress on the minds of
all who condescend to peruse these pages a due sense of the worth
of this meritorious and enterprising American navigator, w^ho has done
much for his country, by promoting its nautical science and commercial
prosperity. May he yet be rewarded by the munificence of those whose
interests he has been instrumental in advancing.

Immediately on our arrival at New Island, after properly mooring
the vessel, &c., about eight A. M. all hands were set to work in gather-
ing the eggs of aquatic birds from the same rookery mentioned in the
former voyage, on the w-est side of the island. The result of our
labours in this particular pursuit w^as twenty-five barrels of fresh eggs,
^vhich we carefully salted down. During the period of ten days
which we spent here, about two hundred and fifty fat geese and teal
were shot ; and several fur-seals v/ere taken. We also repaired the
sails, stowed the hold anew, and took in a fresh supply of water.

October 16///. — On Saturday, at 4 P. M., the schooner Yankee, Cap-
tain Thayer, arrived from New- York ; as fine a vessel of her class, and
as well fitted out, as any that ever passed Sandy Hook lighthouse on
a sealing expedition. On the following day, the Tartar left the Falk-
land Islands, and we shaped our course for the Strait of Magellaii,
with the wind from south-south-west, attended wuth snow-squalls.
Indeed, we had experienced more or less snow every day while lying
at New Island.

October 22d. — It was on Sunday, the 17th, at 2 P. ^L, that we left
New Island, and the wind continued from south-south-west to west-
north-west, generally accompanied with snow and hail, until Friday,
the 22d; on which day, at 7 P. JNI., we saw Queen Catharine's
Foreland, bearing west-by-north, distant seven leagues. On the fol-
lowing morning, at eight A. M., we w^ere within the eastern entrance
of the Strait of Magellan, and the point just mentioiied was two leagues
behind us, bearing east-by-south. Fair weather.

soon began to give himself airs, and insult the captains of sealing vessels from the United States,
pjrbiddins them to pursue the business among those islands. In 1831 he even presumed to capture
several of them, one of which, belonging to Stonington.Ct., was taken under circumstances which
rendered the act substantially piratical. On receiving intelligence of this unwarranted aggression,
the President of the United States despatched the national corvette Lexington, Captain Duncan, to
protect our scaling ships in those seas, and to chastise every piratical spoliation that might have
been committed. Captain Duncan arrived at the Falkland Islands on the 2Sth of December, and
in a summary manner dcstroved the establishment of Vernet, and took away the American property
found in his possession ; at tlic same time making a prisoner of " his little excellency." On the
arrival of this news at KuenosAvres, an extrsordinary excitement prevailed ; and that government,
at one time, seriouslv contemplated making reprisals on American citizens and their property.
This affair is now under a train of adjustmen' and the result, of course, not yet kn )wn.

]56 PENINSUL.\ OF THREE MOUNTAINS. [1824.

October 2-ith. — We continued plying to the westward, and on Sat-
urday, the 23d, at midnight, passed the Narrows. On the following
morning, at 1 A. M., we came to an anchor on the east side of Quarter-
piasters Island, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom. At four
A. ^I. we again got under way, with the wind from west-north-west,
blowing a single-reef breeze.

. October 2Gth. — On Tuesday, the twenty-sixth, at three, A. M., we
anchored in Port Famine, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom. At
six, A. JVI., sent all hands on shore to cut wood and collect wild celery.
Many other plants were also procured, which furnished a fine mess of
greens for officers and crew. AVe lay here three days, during which
time I had frequent interviews with the natives, who appeared as in-
offensive and as wretched as they are represented in my former voyage.
On "Wednesday and Thursday we were visited by heavy falls of rain.

October Slst. — We got under way on Friday, the twenty-ninth, with
the wind from west-south-west, and the weather fair. After leaving
Port Famine and passing Cape Fro ward, we assiduously plied to the
westward, night and day, until Sunday, the thirty-first, when, at four,
A. M., we passed Cape Pillar, the southern boundary of the west en-
trance to Magellan's Strait, with a fresh breeze from south-west. At
eight, A. M., the cape bore east-south-east, distant seven leagues.

November 8th, — On ^londay, the first of November, at nine, P. M.,
the wind veered round to the north-west, blowing a strong breeze, with
heavy falls of rain, and continued from north-north-west to west, until
the ^londay following, November 8th ; when, at six, A. M., we saw
Cape Three Mountains, bearing east-north-east, distant four leagues ;
W'ind from west-by-south, and fair weather. The shore of the Penin-
sula of Tres Montes, from the cape to Point Taitaohaohuon, runs in
the direction of north-by-west half-west.

It will be recollected, that in the preceding voyage I examined the
eastern coast of Patagonia, from Cape Corrientes to Cape Virgin, and
furnished sailing directions from thence to Cape Horn ; also for
doubling that cape, and steering to the western entrance of Magellan's
Strait. From thence I inspected the western coast of South America
as far north as Point Taitaohaohuon, which is the north-western point
of the peninsula of Tres Montes. From the last-mentioned point the
shore of this peninsula turns suddenly to the eastward, opening to view
an extensive group of small islands, lying near the north-west extrem-
ity of the peninsula of Three Mountains. Hair-seals in great numbers
resort to these islands for the usual purposes of bringing forth their
young, shedding' Mieir coats, &c., as described in my former voyage.
Here, however, they are very wild, and not easily taken, except in the
" pupping season ;" at which time the hair-lions (as the males are
called) will readily sacrifice their lives in defence of their "conjugal
partners and helpless offspring."

AVhen attacked by the crew of a sealing vessel, the lions will not
allow the females to abandon their young, even to preserve their own
lives. Under such circumstances I have frequently seen the female
attempt to make her escape ; sometimes with a pup in her mouth, as a
cat carries off her kitten. But the male, which is twice the size of the

Nov.] PENINSULA OF THREE MOUNTAINS. 157

female, would instantly seize the retreating mother by the back, and by
the muscular force of his powerful jaws, throw her from four to ten
feet on the upland. Here she would lie down in despair, take her
suckling to her breast, and " with eyes raining tears," meekly await
the inevitable death-blow. Even in the agonies of death, their con-
vulsive efforts are solely directed to the protection of their young.

" Maternal love ! how wonderful the tie '.

What power can sever — what destroy the cord?
'Tig fire divine— 'tis kindled from on high,
And emanates from nature's sovereign Lord."

CHAPTER 11.

Peninsula de Tres Montes, and the adjacent Islands — Natives of the Coast — Bene-
ficial Effects of foreign Missionaries, promoting the Interests of Commerce — A
new Field for Missionary Labours — Archipelago of Chonos — Island of Chiloe —
Natural Productions — ToAvn of St. Carlos — Religion, Character, and Manners
of the Inhabitants — Dress of the Females — Employments, Accomplishments,
and Amusements — Equestrian Exercises — Mode of Mounting their Horses —
Ponchos and Hammocks — The adjacent Country — Directions fur Entering the
Port.

The group of small islands which lie near the north-western ex-
tremity of the peninsula of Three Mountains aflbrds many fine harbours
(as does also the peninsula itself), which ships of any size may ap-
proach with safety by daylight, if the weather be tolerably clear.
^Vood and water may be had here with very liitle labour. Sea-otters
frequent the shores of these islands, as they do the whole coast from
hence to Cape Horn ; and right whales, during the calving season, are
found in all the principal bays in great abundance.

The navigator among these islands need not be apprehensive of any
hidden dangers, as every thing shows itself in the daytime ; neither
need he have any fears as regards the natives of tliis coast ; as I have
had communications with thousands of them, and can vouch for their
being a harmless, inoffensive race. They are inquisitive, tractable,
and would readily receive instruction. Could they be blessed with the
same advantages from the labours of missionaries which the natives
of the Sandwich Islands have enjoyed, they w^ould soon become
equally civilized, intelligent, and moral. They are fit subjects for
such instruction. ^,

In this place I beg leave to detain the reader by another short di-
gression, to show that the results of missionary labours abroad have
been misrepresented, misunderstood, and much underrated. Among
the native islanders of the Pacific Ocean the good they have done is in-
calculable. I consider most, if not all, of the persons who have visited
these islands in the character of religious missionaries, as the bene-
factors, not of the natives merely, but of the human race. I shall not
allude to what spiritual benefits they may have conferred on those
whom theyhave been instrumental in turning from paganism toCliris-

158 BENEFITS OF MISSIONARY LABOURS. [1824.

tianity, but I rest their defence on the good they have done to the cause
of civihzation, science, and commerce. They have opened new chan-
nels for lucrative trade, ^vhich were formerly closed by the ferocity of
cannibals. They have extended a knowledge of literature and the
useful arts to countries where they were never before known, and may
be said to have created new countries of civilized men.

If commerce be a blessing to the world — and who, at this day, is
bold enough to deny it ? — then the missionaries to the Pacific islands
have done much to promote its interests, and have thereby added much
to the sum of human prosperity and happiness.

Let us then do justice to the missionaries, and bid them God-speed.
If they have merely caused two blades of grass to grow where but
one grew before, they deserve the approbation of the world. They
cannot act from sellisli motives when they voluntarily submit to so
many privations, sufferings, dangers, even death itself, to benefit others.
They leave the comforts of home, the associations of their early years,
ivives and children, country, lucrative situations, and expose them-
selves to all the dangers of the sea, to the fatigues of a long voyage —
to war, pestilence, and famine. And all for what ? Not to acquire
worldly riches for themselves or their friends ; but to impart what they
conceive to be spiritual riches to strangers and savages. To cause
them to pursue the path which leads to happiness, and to teach them
that all mankind are their brethren, and that they must no more mas-
sacre the white men who visit their islands, but treat them with hospi-
tality and kindness.

This the missionaries have done — this they continue to do — and
every ship-master should say, God prosper their labours, unless indeed
lie prefer to obtain refreshments for a starving crew by force of arms.
But all ships have not sufficient arms or men to force a landing against
thousands of ferocious savages wdth poisoned weapons. There have
been instances where the ship's company, officers and all, have been
too much weakened and emaciated by famine and scurvy to maintain
a contest with savages. 8uch have either perished with hunger, or
became themselves the food of cannibals.

Such instances certainly have been, and these islands are still in-
habited by the descendants of the same people. What force of arms
could not effect, the gentle manners and mild persuasions of pious
missionaries have accomplished. No sooner does a ship stop there
noiOf than the inhabitants vie with each other in acts of kindness and
hospitality. The best their country affords is offered, and freely
offered, to refresh the wearied and weather-beaten mariners, whom
they meet on the beach ; and, armed with nothing but smiles of wel-
come, inquire their wants. Here the stranger can eat and drink, and
.sleep in perfect security, under perhaps the same roof beneath which
human flesh was once an article of food. AVho have eftected this
wonderful change in tlie short period of one generation ? I answer,
this is the work of missionaries. God bless them !

There is still an extensive field open for such useful labours, where
results equally beneficial, in many respects, could not fail of being pro-
duced. " The harvest truly is plenty, but the labourers are few."

Nov.] PENINSUL-\ DE TRES MONTES. 159

The western coast of South America, from Magellan's Strait to Port
Valdivia, deserves the attention of missionary societies. Here the
3iatives are living in the most wretched condition that can well be con-
ceived, in one of the finest countries in the world. The arts of civili-
zation, particularly that of agriculture, with a true knowledge of practi-
cal religion, would make them a happy and a grateful people ; and at
the same time open a lucrative trade that would prove beneficial to all
parties. This country is claimed by no civilized nation, the Spaniards
never having extended their conquests south of the archipelago of
Chonos, or Chiloe.

^ Let us now return to the northern coast of the peninsula de Tres
Montes, trom which we shall shortly proceed to the archipelago just
named. About twenty miles to the north-east of Taitaohaohuon Point,
keeping the mainland on board, there is a fine bay, with a spacious
entrance that cannot be missed, and a harbour that afibrds good
anchorage. It is sheltered at the entrance by several small islands,
■which completely landlock the port, one island jutting past another.
In entering this harbour, there is no danger more than a cable's length
from shore, the usual depth of water being twenty fathoms between
the islands. When once inside, a ship may choose her anchorage in
from twenty to five fathoms. We anchored on the south-west side of
the port, in four fathoms, mud and clay bottom.

The surrounding land is much elevated, and the woods near the
water-side are of an immense growth, and almost impenetrable. The
timber is oak, birch, beech, redwood, and a kind of bastard cedar,
which grows perfectly straight to a great height, and is very tough.
I observed another species of wood, resembling fustic, but tried no
experiments to determine its qualities as a die-wood. The groves and
forests are rendered vocal by many different kinds of birds of variegated
plumage. On the plains and uplands are plenty of deer, which are
very tame, and may be had for the shooting, with very little travelling.
I have singled out an individual among a large herd of these animals,
not more than forty yards distant from me. On hearing the report of
the gun, and seeing their companion fall, the survivors would stand in
stupid amazement, watching my motions as I reloaded the musket. A
second shot appeared to increase their astonishment, but excited no
alarm. A third, fourth, and fifth were attended with similar effects.
But when they heard the sixth report, and beheld half a dozen of the
herd lifeless or struggling on the ground, they awoke from their be-
wildered dream, and plunged into the forest.

November loth. — After carefully examining the cluster of islands
near the peninsula so often mentioned, Mithowt finding any fur-seals,
ive got under way on Monday, the fifteenth, and steered to the north-
ward. Between this peninsula and the main, to which it is joined by
the little isthmus of Ofqui, is a narrow bay or gulf, of which the isth-
mus is the southern boundary. From its entrance on the north, the
coast of Chonos on the main tends more easterly to the river Rabudos,
forming a hollow curve, where commences the Gulf of Chonos and
Guaytecas, in the waters of whicli are scattered those islands which
have given it the appellation of tlic archipelago of Chiloe and Chonos.

ICO ISLAND OF CHILOE, [1824.

We first passed a multitude of small islands, a number of which are
inhabited by the Indians from the continent. The soil a})pears to be
richly spread over these islands, which produce an abundanc-e of vege-
tables. It is said, however, that in the year 1737, at the lime of a great
earthquake in the island of Chiloe, tliese were so thickly covered with
ashes, perhaps from a volcanic eruption, as to destroy almost every
species of vegetation for a period of thirteen years. Another account
says, that in the year just mentioned, an enormous globe of fire burst
on the Guaytecas Islands, and reduced all ihe vegetables to ashes.

Here we may be said to re-enter the southern borders of civilization
on the Pacific coast, as we left them at Rio Negro on the Atlantic coast ;
for all the country south of these two points to Cape Horn, islands in-
cluded, is inhabited by wandering tribes of the human race, nearly
naked, and in the lowest possible state of ignorance, degradation, and
wretchedness. In all this extensive region of a most delightful country
(with the exception of Terra del Fuego), comprising fifteen degrees of
latitude, and seven or eiglit of longitude, there is not a city, a town, or
even a village of civilized beings, nor a single cultivated field or
garden !

The natives of the archipelago of Chonos, on the contrar}'', culti-
vate a great part of these islands, on which they raise wheat, oats,
beans, and potatoes ; besides many kinds of fruit, such as apples, pears,
peaches, plums, cherries, and a variety of herbs. They also raise
black-cattle, horses, sheep, goats, hogs, and poultry, in abundance.
The most of these islands rise perpendicularly out of the water, have
deep channels between them, and afford many good anchoring places,
where ships may lie in perfect safety. One thing, however, they did
pot afford at this time, and that was the grand object of our search —
fur-seal. We therefore made the best of our way to the island of
Chiloe.

November 19th. — We arrived at the south end of tins celebrated
island on Wednesday, the 17th, and commenced searching the small
islands near it for fur-seals, but without success. We therefore entered
the gulf between the island and the continent, on Friday, the 19th ; and
after examining tlie small islands as v:e passed, with no better success,
we finally cast anchor in the port of St. Carlos, on the north-west part
of the island.

November 23J. — It was on the morning of Tuesday, the 23d, at
eleven, A. M., that we came to anchor in the harbour of San Carlos
de Chacao, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom, ^vith the flag-staff
on Fort Quintanilla, bearing east-north-east, distant one and a half
miles.

The island of Chiloe, as the reader is already aware, is the princi-
pal one of a large group called the archipelago of Chiloe,* and by
some the archipelago of Chonos ; the latter being the name of that
pari of the continent near the western coast of which these islands are
situated. They extend along the coast of CJionos, which here curves

* The original settlers, having emigrated fi-orn Chili, as is manifest from their manners and lan-
guage, gave it the name of Chil-hue (hence Chiloe); i. e. a district of ChiU..— Edinburgh Encys.

Nov.] ISLAND OF CHILOE. 161

inland, towards the Andean chain of mountains, between the parallels
of latitude 41° 40' and 45^ 30' S., a distance of about eighty-five
leagues. Though I have never counted these islands, I have no doubt
that the Edinburgh Encyclopedia is correct in estimating their number
at eighty-two, of which thirty-two are inhabited.

Isla Grande, or Chiloe, is the principal and largest of the group,
perhaps much larger than all the rest put together. It is also the most
northerly, with the exception of a few small ones in Purraraque Bay.
It is one hundred and twenty-five miles in length north and south, and
varies from fifteen to forty in breadth ; indented on each side with
bays and inlets, which in some places nearly cut h in two. It abounds
with forests of excellent timber, especially red cedar, which grows
here to great perfection. These forests are inhabited by a great variety
of beautiful birds and insects, and here also are found several species
of serpents, otters, deer, and black foxes.

The principal productions of this island are timber, wheat, oats,
corn, beans, pease, apples, pears, peaches, plums, quinces, and cher-
ries. The crops of wheat, however, are seldom great, owing probably
to the humidity of the soil. Barley and beans are abundant, and
wine is plenty. Cattle and sheep were first introduced here from
Spain, and have so multiplied, as to furnish a great abundance of good
meat. The hams of Chiloe are probably the best in the world, having
a peculiar delicious flavour, which is attributed to the hogs' feeding
principally upon shellfish, with which the shores abound. Among the
articles raised for exportation are black-cattle, sheep, goats, horses,
hogs, and poultry. Of the vegetable productions, they have excellent
crops of potatoes, known by the term papas.

The soil is good, but rather too moist ; and the climate is temperate
for that latitude ; being healthy, but often cold and rainy. The coun-
try is subject to earthquakes, and a very dreadful one took place in
the year 1737 ; when the Guaytecas, a group of islands to the south,
were covered with ashes. Chiloe abounds with timber of the best
quality, which is manufactured into boards, planks, <fcc. ; much of which
is exported. The principal trees are oak, red cedar, walnut, hazel,
myrtle, cypress, and laurel. There is also an abundance of ratans,
which furnish the Indians with cordage, and thatch for the roofs of
their dwellinos. The face of the country in the interior is mountain-
ous. The waters around the shores of this island are teeming with
scale-fish of considerable variety and excellent quality ; particularly
the cod, which appears to be of the same species with those on our
coast. Shellfish are very plentiful and of many different kinds.

The whole population of this island is estimated at about twenty-
five thousand ; but few of whom reside in the interior. There are
three towns and several villages, the most of which are situated on the
northern and eastern part of the island. The towns are St. Carlos,
Chacao, and Castro. The latter is situated on the east side, and has
a good harbour ; which is little frequented, however, on account of the
difficulty of its navigation. Chacao is on the north-east part of the
island, and for many years previous to the revolution was considered
the capital. But of late it has fallen into decay, while St. Carlos has

102 ISLAND OF CHILOE. [1824.

risen into notice and importance, and is now considered the capital of
the island. There are three or four small ports or villages on the
west side, but they are seldom entered except by fishing craft. St.
Carlos is in latitude 41° 51' S., long. 73^ 54' W., and is situated on the
north-west part of the island.

. This town is very well built, the houses generally being constructed
of a kind of freestone, with terraces or piazzas in front, and one
story high, which is the usual practice on this coast, as a necessary
precaution against the effects of earthquakes and volcanic agitations. But
few of them, however, are in the old Spanish style, with flat roofs.
The streets are laid out in a very regular manner, wide and straight, but
destitute of pavement. Among the public buildings are two elegant
churches, two monasteries, one college of Jesuits, and several nunneries.

Although a very small portion of the inhabitants are Europeans, the
most of them are truly Spanish, in features, character, and language.
Indeed, so much intermarrying has heretofore taken place between the
Spaniards and the aborigines, that there are very few now born on the
island who cannot boast of Castilian blood, in a greater or less degree.
The features of the females are more European and better formed
than those of the ladies in the northern part of Chili.

The religion in Chiloe is of course Roman Catholic ; and all the
islands in the archipelago are under the same ecclesiastical govern-
ment. The native Indians who inhabit these islands appear to be
well contented, and perfectly submissive to all the requirements of the
church ; and v/hile eating their salted seal's flesh, are no doubt as
happy as their more luxurious rulers. Chiloe is the see of a bishop,
who resides at St. Carlos. While these islands were in possession
of old Spain, as was the case at the time of my visit, a considerable
military force was necessary to maintain their sovereignty, and the
principal part of this force was stationed at St. Carlos. The poor
Indians on the main frequently felt the weight of their leaden argu-
ments ; for it was then fashionable to convert these persecuted people
by force of arms. Most of the new proselytes of course became
slaves to the conquerors, thus benefiting both church and state at the
same time.

The natives on the continent opposite Chiloe have been harassed,
oppressed, and hunted with nearly as much ruthless ferocity as were
the aborigines farther north. A long series of such " tender mercies"
from a people professing to be disciples of the Prince of peace has
jnuch reduced their numbers, and driven the remnant back from the
coast, to enjoy their savage independence among the mountains and
forests on the west of Patagonia. No wonder if such wanton and
mimerited injuries have rendered many of them desperate, and made
them ten times more savage than they would otherwise have been.
They cot#d easily be tamed by kindness ; but they will suffer much,
sooner than submit to force. They are mostly descended from
the Araucanians, a people that inhabit the rich and fertile districts
which lie between the rivers Biobio and Valdivia, in the southern
part of Chili. The Spaniards have called it Araucanian Flanders, or
^»the invinoihU state ; and some of the Spanish poets have had the mag-

i^ov.] CHARACTER, MANNERS, ETC. 163

nanimity to celebrate in verse the exploits of a people who shed so
much Spanish blood in maintaining their independence.

I have been struck with honor, even here in civilized Chiloe, among
professed Christians, to hear a Spanish priest denounce some native
Indians just brought in from the mountains, as brutes ; nay, as objects
of Divine wrath doomed to perdition. When this same arrogant
Spanish ecclesiastic, and others like him, had wantonly assailed, robbed,
and despoiled the fair possessions of these unfortunate Indians ; had
xleprived them of all they held dear, and driven them to the Andean
deserts for safety !

The inhabitants of Chiloe, generally, are a brave, humane, liberal
people ; similar, in most respects, to those of Yaldivia and Concep-
tion; except that the ladies do not dress quite so much in the Euro-
pean style. Their demeanour and manners, however, are so delicate
and pleasing, that a man must possess more stoicism than I can boast
of who does not, after a short acquaintance, feel for them a strong
partiality. They are remarkable for quickness of apprehension, wit,
and vivacity. They are also sociable, lively, and polite ; which, com-
bined with an excellent taste, seem to be hereditary qualities in these
interesting descendants of two distinct and dissimilar species of the
human race. They appear to be particularly well-affected towards
the Americans of the IJnited States, and also to Englishmen ; and for
my own part, I could never think it improper to reciprocate such favoiu:-
able sentiments.

In the concluding sentence of the preceding paragraph is seen and
felt the want of a generic name for our own country, in distinctix)n
from all other nations in the western hemisphere. We are all Amer-
icans^ from the Northern Frozen Ocean to Cape Horn ; and the citizens
of the United States alone are without a specific national appellation.
The late learned and scientific Dr. Mitchill, while he held a seat in
the national legislature, proposed a very good one, " Fredonia ;" but as
a revolution in South America was at that time never dreamed of, his
proposition was rejected. Since that period so many new nations
have sprung into existence on the southern continent, each of which
has been appropriately christened by its republican sponsors, that it
has become quite inconvenient to navigators and travellers from the
United States, in reporting themselves to our neighbours of the south.

In the course of a desultory conversation, I once observed to a lady
of Valparaiso, that the Americans (meaning citizens of the United
States) had felt and .expressed a lively interest in the late successful
struggle of Chili for liberty and independence. " O yes, sir," she
replied whh vivacity ; " we certainly felt anxious for the result." Here
I was fishing for a polite compliment for our national sympathy, and
was not understood, because my country has no other name than that
which is claimed with an equal right by the Canadians, the Mexicans,
Brazilians, and each repubhc of South America. But this is another
digression.

Taking it for granted that the fair reader of my own country (should
any condescend to peruse the rough journal of a seaman) would
like to know something respecting the dress of these black-eyed ladies

164 ' DRESS AND EMPLOYMENTS. [1824.

of Chiloe, I shall drop a few words on that subject. The first thing
that struck me was their liberal use of ornaments ; such as gold hair-
combs, splendid ear-jewels, bracelets on the arms, chains around the
wrists, rich chains of gold around the neck and waist, with shoe-
buckles of the same valuable material. Many of these ornaments are
inlaid with gems and precious stones. Their usual headdress is simply
their glossy black hair, tastefully done up with four or live gold combs,
and gracefully disposed, which gives them a very charming appearance.
Some of them reminded me of Walter Scott's description of Rebecca,
in the romance of Ivanhoe.

AVith respect to the dress itself, however, independent of ornaments, I
must confess that one of their fashions struck me rather oddly, as I had
never met with any thing of the kind, among " Jews or gentiles, bond
or free." I allude to their hoop-dresses, which I was subsequently
permitted to examine. They are worn beneath the external petticoat ;
and the hoop, which is nearly three feet in diameter, is worn parallel with
the hips, and is kept in its horizontal position in the following manner.
A strip of linen or cotton of six or eight inches in width, according to
the size of the waist of the wearer and the diameter of the hoop, is
sewed all around the latter at one edge, while the other edge is drawn
by a string, and tied to the body just above the hips. In this position
(that is, when the string is drawn), it resembles a large drum-head,
with a circular hole cut in the centre. This apparatus, their petticoats
being very short, gives them a very singular appearance.

The employments of the ladies in Chiloe are very trifling ; merely
consisting of a little embroidery and lace-work. Those who are
married of course pay some attention to the superintendence of their
household affairs. Those of the higher classes, in particular, are
very indolent, avoiding every exertion, except in the way of amuse-
ment. They smoke tobacco to excess ; ancl the practice is so univer-
sal here, and in other places on the coast, that strangers soon cease to
consider it indelicate. Indeed, if any thing can consecrate a Spanish
segar, it must be the touch of a beautiful pair of ruby lips. I hope
my fair countrywomen, however, will never try the experiment.

The employments of the men are neither numerous nor laborious.
They pay attention to the cultivation of their fields and gardens, and
transact their mercantile business, of which there is very little in this
place. Some of them are employed as mariners in the few vessels
that belong to the island. They build several small vessels here every
year, which gives employment to many of the labouring class, in pre-
paring cargoes, sawing boards and planks, and felling timber. Good
mechanics and medical men arc very scarce, and very much wanted
on this island.

Riding on horseback is a favourite recreation of both sexes ; and it
is an accomplishment in which both excel. The men, in particular,
are the most expert horsemen that I have ever seen in any part of the
world. Whether mounted on a wild unbroken horse, or on a well
tutored animal, they exhibit a grace, skill, and dexterity which is truly
surprising ; and such is their tact in tlie management of the most spir-
ited or vicious steed, that they very seldom get unseated.

Nov.] EQUESTRIAN EXERCISES. 165

Like the Mamelukes, they accustom theii' horses to start with the
quickness of the hghtning's flash, and to stop as if struck by the boh.
I have seen them ride with the speed of a race-horse, until within
six feet of a house, and then stop as suddenly as if the animal had
fallen dead on the spot ; the rider still retaining his seat and equilibrium.
I have also seen the same feat attempted on the open road, where the
animal could not have anticipated the rider's intention. In such case,
the horse would throw his feet forward, ploughing the ground with the
hinder part of his hoofs, for two or three yards ; and frequently fall on
his haunches, in the sitting posture of a dog.

The ladies, also, are very fond of those equestrian exercises ; and
most of them ride extremely well. Those of the higher class ride in
the same manner as do our North x4.merican ladies ; but their mode
of getting upon the saddle would scarcely be tolerated by the latter.
I received a lesson on this subject, at the house of my friend General
Quintanilla (commander-in-chief of this island and its dependencies),
where several ladies were assembled for the purpose of amusing them-
selves with an equestrian excursion. I had not then met with an
anecdote, exactly similar, as related by Captain Delano, or I should
have profited by his experience. AVhen the horses were brought to the
door, and the fair equestrians were preparing to vault on their respect-
ive saddles, I, with a sailors gallantry, singled out one of the prettiest
and most sprightly of the group, to whom I tendered my assistance. The
oifer was graciously accepted, with a smile of bewitching sweetness.

She immediately advanced to a horse that was held by a servant,
threw her arms over the saddle, leaning her swelling chest against the
animal's side, then half turning her pretty face towards me, she bade me
help her.

" Si, seuora," I replied, in as gallant a manner as I could say, — " Yes,
madam," and stood waiting for further orders. She still retained her
singular position, and again exclaimed, " Ayudeme, usted amigo
queridito." — " Help me, my dear sir !"

The awkwardness of my situation now became painful ; for I could
see no part of the lady which my northern ideas of delicacy would
allow me to touch. Her hands were beyond my reach, and a husband,
or a father, in my situation, might not have been embarrassed.

A gentleman of the party, perceiving at once the nature of my em-
barrassment, and that I was a stranger to the customs of the country,
immediately stepped forward to offer the lady that assistance which
she was expecting from me. Stooping behind her, he seized one of
those delicate little ankles in each hand ; at the same moment she
sprang, like a Vestris, in the air, turning a half-pirouette, as she
ascended ; the gentleman dexterously crossing his arms to accommo-
date her change of position. In this manner, and in much less time
than I have occupied in attempting to describe it, her ladyship was
seated on the saddle, with the reins in her hand, and ready for the
starting signal.

The chagrin and mortification I felt from being deprived of so pleas-
ant an office through ignorance were instantly removed by a consoling
smile from the sparkling eyes of the fair equestrian, accompanied \\'ith

166 EMPLOYMENTS AND AMUSEMENTS. [1824^

the words, "Pasado manana, senor;" intimating that the privilege
should be mine on some other occasion. To my great satisfaction,
such an occasion occurred the same evening ; and she had the polite-
ness to say that I performed the oflice with the dexterity and grace of
a Spanish cabalero.

Some of the females, and not of the lowest class neither, are far
from being over-scrupulous as to their mode of sitting on horseback ;
but as often ride with a foot on each side of the animal as any other
"way.

The Chiloean bridles are made like ours, except that the reins are
long enough to serve as a substitute for a riding-wliip. Their saddles,
however, are somewhat different. They are lined with a coarse skin,
fitted to set easy on the horse's back ; their first attention being
directed to the comfort and convenience of so serviceable and noble
an animal. For the comfort of the rider, these saddles are covered
with sheepskins, dressed with the wool on, from three to four inches
in thickness, painted with different colours, and neatly bound on the
saddle. They have a handsome appearance, and are easy to both
horse and rider.

Their stirrups are of a peculiar fashion, the rest for the foot being
long enough to support both heel and toe ; say from eight to ten inches
in length, and six in width. The fore-part is covered with nearly a
perfect quadrasphere ; so that it bears some resemblance to an iron or
brass shoe, with a high instep, and the quarters taken off. They have
a clumsy appearance, and in case of being unseated might endanger
the rider's safety by confining the foot. The ladies' saddles differ
from those of the gentlemen only by the elevation of the off-side of
the tree.

The sedentary amusements of the Chiloeans principally consist of
music and card-playing ; and this is peculiarly the case at St. Carlos*
Their favourite instrument is the Spanish guitar, on which almost
every female performs with pleasing effect, accompanied with the
voice — some of them the sweetest I ever heard. They also play the
harp, spinnet, harpsichord, and piano-forte. The gentlemen play the
fiute and clarionet, and both sexes dance with exquisite grace, accom-
panied with a due proportion of Castilian dignity. Their principal
dances are minuets, long dance, cotillions, and the celebrated fandango.
The latter is a very fascinating dance, performed by two persons;
commonly by a lady and gentleman, sometimes by two ladies.
i Card-tables are introduced at all their parties, at which the gentle-
men play by themselves, while the ladies amuse them with songs, ac-
companied by the guitar or harp. Such gentlemen as do not fancy
cards have the privilege of joining the ladies — a privilege which I
never forfeited by neglect.

This island is celebrated for manufacturing the best ponchos of any-,
part of Chili. They are woven very thick, of a fine thread, and curi-
ously wrought, in variegated colours. In weaving the cloth, they use
twelve or more treadles in the loom. It is generally about six feet
square, beautifully fringed around the edges, and has a slit in the
centre, just large enough to admit a man's head. The edges of this

Nov.] . ISLAND OF CHILOE. 167

slit are also bordered with beautiful needlework. They are M^orn by
the gentlemen, as a protection from the weather ; and are so thick and
fine, that they tm-n off water nearly as well as leather. When the
wearer's head is put through the ornamented sht in the centre, the-
poncho hangs about him like a blanket, and is the most convenient
garment to ride in, that could be invented ; the rider having his legs-
and arms at liberty, and his body completely defended from the rain.

The ladies have a liandsomely striped cloth, manufactured of cotton^
very much like the poncho, about seven feet in length, and three iiv
breadth. This is suspended like a seaman's hammock, about two feet
and a half from the floor, in which the ladies amuse themselves by-
swinging, sometimes in a lying and sometimes in a sitting posture, as
fancy or indolence suggests.

The island of Chiloe is separated from the main or continent, by
the Gulf of Guaytecas, which is more than twelve leagues in width at
the south entrance ; but to the northward the passage is quite narrow,
being in some places not more than one league across, through which
the tide occasionally runs with great velocity ; at spring tides from six
to eight miles an hour. There are likewise several dangers in the
passage, which are concealed by the ripple of a strong tide, that rises
eighteen feet with a strong westerly wind. In passing through this
gulf or strait,'vessels should keep the Chiloean shore best on board, as
the sunken rocks, reefs, Slc. lie on the opposite side of the passage.

The coast on the main is indented by numerous inlets, forming la-
goons, rivers, creeks, bays, and harbours. This land is tolerably well
peopled, from the forty-first to the fifty-first degree of south latitude;
especially in the valleys of the interior, on the banks of rivers, lagoons,
&c., and at the heads of bays. The coast abounds with sea-otters,
hair-seals, fur-seals, Slc. ; and the interior with lions, tigers, deer^
guanacoes, hares, gray and black foxes, and many other animals
with which I am not acquainted, including a large black rabbit, which
has a fur equal to that of the beaver. There are many kinds of
ostriches, swans, &lc., and thousands of birds with the most beautiful
plumage. There are likewise very valuable mines of gold, silver,,
copper, lead, and iron ; medicinal plants, drugs, and die-woods, with
much valuable timber for ship-building and cabinet work.

I feel very anxious to direct the attention of my enterprising country-
men to this long neglected, almost unknown region of South America.
A small exploring expedition, properly fitted out, and conducted by
men of skill and experience, would ensure golden returns to the pro-
jectors. The necessary investments of capital would be very trifling
to a company of merchants ; and if accompanied by one or two scientific
gentlemen, I stand ready to tender my professional services. The
spirit of commercial enterprise cannot much longer leave these inter-
esting regions unexplored ; and I should be extremely sorry to see any
foreign competitor enjoy the fame and opulence which now court the
acceptance of my own countrymen. «

The port of St. Carlos is sheltered on the north-west by the penin-
sula of Lacay, on the west side of which there are many dangerous,
rocks, rumiing from one to three miles seaward ; and these require a

168 ST. CARLOS— VALDIVIA BAV. [1824.

good berth, as the tides run very rapidly along the shores of this island.
The port is defended by two forts, about three miles from each other.
It runs into the land in a south-west direction, and is safe, but subject
to violent blows from the north-west and west-south-west in the winter
season ; and these often come on very suddenly, with heavy falls
of rain.

Vessels bound to this port should endeavour to enter it in clear
weather, as the tides run through the strait about seven miles an hour,
and renders the navigation very dangerous in calms or thick weather.
In all cases it is proper to keep the shore of the island best on board,
as the middle of the strait contains many simken rocks and small low-
islands. AVood, water, fish, and refreshments of every kind, may be
had here on the most moderate terms. The tide rises from fourteen
to eighteen feet ; and it is high water, on full and change days, at half-
past eleven o'clock.

CHAPTER III.

Having supplied ourselves with such refreshments as we stood in
need of, and taken leave of our kind and hospitable friends at St. Car-
los, we left the island of Cliiloe, and steered to the northward as far as
the port of Valdivia, carefully examining the coast, which proved to be
one continued range of rocks and breakers for the distance of about
forty leagues. They extend from one to tln-ee miles off-shore, and
are veiy dangerous for mariners to approach, w'ho should always be
careful to give them a good berth, unless they are in search of hair-
seals, Mhich frequent this part of the coast ; but are difficult of access,
on account of the heavy swell that continually rolls in from the west-
ward.

Between St. Carlos and Valdivia, or rather Baldivia, as it ought to
be written, there is no resting-place for the mariner ; neither port nor
shelter — trade nor relreshments. Far inland are seen the towering
Andes, lifting their giant forms to the sky, and collecting at their base
the means of supplying several small rivers which descend to this part
of the seacoast ; but none of them are navigable. Between the paral-
lels of thirty-nine and fifty of south lathude, there are several volca-
noes to be seen among the Andes. I have seen more than a dozen in
running along this part of the coast, some of which were near the
shore, and burning with inconceivable rage. Some distance inland
are extensive plains, which form fine grazing fields for cattle.

November 'llth. — We reached the mouth of Baldivia Bav on

Nov.] CITY OF VALDIVIA. 169

Saturday, the twenty-seventh of November ; latitude 39^ 50' S., lon^.
73^ 36' W. On the north-east side of this beautiful bay is a populous
town of the same name, erected on the south bank of the river Baldivia,
about eight miles from the seaboard. The harbour is sheltered from
all winds, and there is sufficient depth of water for vessels of one hun-
dred tons to lie abreast of the town, within a few fathoms of the land-
ing. This place is well defended by several fortifications, and carries
on a considerable trade with the northern parts of Chili and Peru.*

This city was built by the Spanish general Baldivia, about the year
1551. Eight years afterward, the people of Chili, x4-raucanians prin-
cipally, defeated the Spanish troops, and chased them from this settle-
ment, burned the town, and put the inhabitants to the sword. How
long they kept possession I have never learned; but in 1645 it was
taken by the Dutch, who were soon compelled to abandon it, and to
leave all their cannon, consisting of thirty or forty pieces, their baggage,
and their stores. This sudden retreat was owincr to their receivino
intelligence that succours had been transmitted from Peru.

The. population of Baldivia is estimated at about five thousand,
being a mixture of Spaniards, Araucanians, and original Yaldivians.
They are, in general, a well made, robust, active people, with pleasing
and interesting countenances. Their faces are round and full ; their
eyes small, but (^jick, lively, and expressive : all their features are
well formed, especially the nose and mouth. Their limbs are very
muscular, and finely proportioned, with small hands and feet. The
head is covered with thick black hair, which is not suffered to grow
long. The teeth of both sexes are very white, regular, and handsome.

For symmetry of form and grace of motion, the ladies of Baldivia will
yield to no other on the coast. Their sharp, black, quick, penetrating
eve is well calculated to soften the most frigid heart that mav be ex-
posed to its glance. Easy in manners and address ; mild, gentle,
tender, and affectionate in their social relations ; modest and retiring,
yet not without a due share of well tempered self-confidence ; delicacy
of sentiment, and refinement of expression — all these charms are theirs,
besides others of less importance.

There are many valuable gold mines near this place, and for that
reason the Spaniards fortified it, regarding it as a key to the South
Seas. This circumstance has tended to assist its growth and increase
its prosperity. As a seaport, Baldivia affords ever}' convenience for
ships to go through a thorough repair, at a very moderate expense. A
considerable number of ship-carpenters are constantly employed here
in constructing small vessels, and some even as large as three hundred
tons burthen, which they send to Peru and the north part of Chili for
sale, usually meeting with a ready market. At this place, and also
at St. Carlos, ships may generally find a sale for part of their cargoes,
of the coarser kinds of goods than are used farther north. At the same
time, all kinds of refreshments can be had here in great abundance,
and at a very low rate ; the natural productions being similar to those

* Baldivia Bay was surveyed in the year 1819, by CaptainWilliam Skiddy.eldest son of Captain John
R. ?=kiildy, of New-York. I nave sailed with this gentleman, as his fir*<t ofiicer. eig'.iteen months,
and avail myself with pleasure of this ocrasion to bear testimony to his estimable character as a
man, and Ills superior e.vcelleace as a ship-master.

170 THE ARAUCANIANS. [1824,

of St. Carlos; and the manners and customs of the two places differ
but very little.

I have already mentioned that the aborigines on this coast are called
Araucanians, and that thoy inhabit the rich and fertile districts between
the rivers Biobio and Valdivia. The fruitfulness of the soil, abundant
springs, and a temperate climate, render that country even more de-
lightful than Chili. Arauco, the smallest province in their territory,
has given its name to the whole nation. Tliey never used to build
towns, but resided in scattered villages, or in hamlets on the banks
of rivers. Love of liberty and want of refinement induced them to
consider walled cities as the residence of slaves.

The Araucanians, says Vancouver, were the only people in South
America that maintained their independence by force of arms ; but the
prudence and ability of a single individual have done more in reducing
that warlike people than all the armies of Spain. By the judicious
policy of Vallenor, President of Chili, the two nations have long been
kept on amicable terms with each other ; and now Indian magistrates
superintend the trade carried on by their countrymen with the Span-
iards. The colonists and the natives associate with each other, and
Araucanian workmen are frequently met with in the Spanish settle-
ments. Intermarriages have likewise tended to strengthen the bond
of union, as is also the case at Chiloe.

Polygamy is considered lawful by the Araucanians in the interior,
who still adhere to their ancient usages ; but the first wife is treated with
great respect by all the others, and acknowledged to be their superior.
Each wife is obliged to present daily to her husband a dish prepared
M'ith her own hands ; and once a year a poncho, or embroidered cloak.
The women pay great attention to the cleanliness of their persons.

November 2Sth. — On Sunday morning, at six, A. M., we resumed
our survey of the coast, with a fine breeze from south-south-west^
and fair weather ; and on ^Monday, the twenty-ninth, were close in with
the entrance of the river Tolten. We soon discovered that this river
would admit nothing but boats ; and even to enter with them would be
at the hazard of capsizing, from the heavy rollers that are continually
running in from the south-west, and breaking on the bar a great part
of the year.

There is a small town on the northern bank of this river, which the
natives call Pelchue, containing about seven hundred inhabitants,
principally converted Araucanians. They have a church and two
Catholic priests, who are Spaniards, and keep the people completely
mider their control. These ecclesiastical gentlemen attend the fan-
dango dances with the natives, and share in their favourite amusement
of cock-fighting, at which the latter will often hazard all that they are
worth. There is a building erected expressly for that purpose in the
south part of the town, surrounded by a beautiful garden. The build-
ing is one story high, and about forty by sixty feet on the floor, with a
circle of seats and galleries. This amusement is allowed only on Sun-
days and festivals, on which days it is attended by a vast concourse
of people of all classes, the most of whom are never backward ia
betting.

Dec] RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 17X

The church is large and capacious, but not elevated, on account of
earthquakes. It is richly endowed, and the interior is fitted up and
embellished in a style of considerable splendour. In these embellish-
ments the precious metals are not spared, particularly about the altars.
Some of the columns are plated with silver an inch thick ; while llie
drapery, curtains, cushions, and tassels are all of rich silk crimson
damask. The bell is large, and in fair weather may be heard at a
great distance. The amusements of both sexes, at evening or after-
noon parties, are similar to those of the citizens of St. Carlos.

November 30th. — From the river Tolten we continued our course to
the north. The coast from Valdivia to the island of Mocha is en-
tirely free from dangers half a mile from the shore, and continues the
same to the island of St. Maria south of the river Biobio. From Val-
divia to Carnero Bay the course is about north-north-west one-quarter
north ; and from thence to St. Maria the course is north-by-west, and
north-half-west. We landed at the river Tarua, bearing east-by-north
from the island of Mocha, distant about six leagues. The landing at
the mouth of this river is very good at high-water.

There is a small village on the south bank of this river, called by
the natives Yapelhue, where refreshments of every kind may be had
on the most moderate terms. The inhabitants are Araucanians, and
are a very good-natured, friendly sort of people. Their property con-
sists principally of cattle, sheep, and hogs. They also raise an abun-
dance of fruit, particularly apples, of which they make very good cider.
The mouth of this river is in latitude 38^ 18' S., long. 73° 45' W.

From this last-mentioned place to the island of St. Maria there are
several small rivulets, but they are not even navigable for boats. The
back country presents to the mariner, as he sails along this coast from
one to three miles ofF-shore, one of the most pleasing and picturesque
appearances I have ever witnessed in any part of the world ; and the
shores are entirely free from dangers. We saw a few small rookeries
of hair-seals on the beaches to the south of the Bay of Carnero.

On the south side of the last-mentioned bay is the highland of Tu-
capel, a rocky mountain about two thousand feet above the level of the
sea, from which it rises in a bluff precipice, forming a very conspicu-
ous mark for this part of the coast, as there is no other elevated land
between the island of Mocha and Conception Bay.

December 3d. — On Friday, the 3d of December, we passed the
mouth of Port Conception, within about one mile of the shore.

By this time the reader must be aware that every mile of the east
coast of Patagonia, from Cape Corrientes to the Strait of Magellan,
through the strait to Cape Victory, and from thence to Port Concep-
tion, through the Gulf of Guaytecas, has been carefully examined by
my boats ; and wherever there is no danger mentioned in this journal,
the reader may be sure that the passage or coast is safe. If a frank,
open, plain statement of facts should obtain currency, instead of those
highly wrought descriptions of dangers which border on romance, I am
led to believe that navigation in the most distant parts of the world
"will, in a short time, be considered equally safe and easy as that be-
tween America and Europe. All that is necessary to bring about this

172 TOWN OF CHILLAN. [1824.

desirable result is for ever}' navigator to give unvarnished statements
of tilings as they really and actually exist ; and not attempt to enhance
liis own reputation for skill and courage by exaggerating the difficulties
lie has encountered and overcome. From the long experience which
I have had, in the most windy, blustering, and boisterous seas, — along
roasts, around capes, and through straits, on almost every part of the
globe's surface, I can assert with confidence, without the fear of the
fact's being disproved, that there is no worse weather or more hazard-
ous navigation, in any latitude or longitude, than there is on the coast
of North America.

It is a melancholy fact that most disastrous accidents have occurred,
and will again occur, to the best of ships, commanded by the most
^ble navigators, and manned by the most efficient crews. But where
there is one fact of this description, there are many of a very diff'erent
character. Some ship-masters, I am sorry to say it, do not understand
their duty, and are not competent to fill the station to which they have
aspired ; others, who are better qualified, are deficient in energy and
decision, and have not confidence in their own judgment. Many dis-
asters are attributable to both these facts ; and they are published to
the world as so many evidences of unavoidable perils in navigation.

As before stated, we passed Port Conception on the 3d of Decem-
ber, and traced the shore along to the northward, for the distance of
thirteen leagues, to the river Itata. The coast between the two places
runs north-by-west, with a bold shore, free from dangers a little more
than two cables' length from the beach.

On the north bank of the river Itata, about ten miles from its en-
trance, is the Ihtle town of Colemu, inhabited by about six hundred
Araucanians, and one Catholic priest, a native of Old Spain. Farther
up the river, at the distance of about seventy miles, on the same side,
stands the populous town of Chilian,* containing about twelve hundred
inhabitants of the same race, who are blest with seven Catholic
priests, besides about thirty other persons from Spain, England, and
the United States, most of whom have absconded from ships engaged
in the whaling business, while watering at Talcaguano, and settled
here ; having taken " wives of the daughters of the land," with whom
they appear to live very happily. This town can boast of two churches
and a convent. The inhabitants are a very active, industrious people,
engaged in rural and pastoral occupations, particularly in raising wheat
and cattle. A considerable quantity of grain is shipped from this place
to Conception and Valparaiso, in small vessels of one hundred tons
and less, navigated by the natives of the coast.

On spring tides, the water has a depth of ten feet as far up this
river as the town fii-st mentioned ; between which and Chilian inter-
course is kept open by small flat canoes. In the summer season, a
ship may anchor in a small bay about three miles to the northward of

* This town, which is also called San Bartholomew, is the capital of the province of Chilian, the
latter being twelve leagues from north to south, and twenty-five from east to west. Its plains, being
considerably elevated, aflbrd excellent pasture for sheep, whose wool is reckoned of a superior
quality. The province Itnta, between Chilian and the coast, is eleven leagues from north to south,
and twenty-three from sra-t to west. It produces the best wine in all Chili. !>'MO\nii by the name
of Concepiioa wine, from ii.s being the product of lands belonging to the inhabitants of that city.

Dec] SURVEYING THE COAST— VALPARAISO. 173

tlie river ; where, with the prevaiUng winds, she will have a tolerable
good shelter, in from twenty to five fathoms of water, with sandy bob-
torn. Whatever refreshments may be. wanted will be brought off in
bolses, if the sea be too rough for the ship's boat to land. There are
no dangers along this part of the coast, excepting off the north point
of the river, where there is a sandbank, running nearly dead off-shore
for the distance of half a mile. In approaching this bank, the water
shallows veiy suddenly, from ten fathoms to two. After bringing the
extremity of the north point ©f the river (which is very low) to bear
east-by-south, the ship will be to the north of the bank ; when she
may choose her own anchorage, taking care to be at least half a mile
from the shore, that she may have room to get under way, if the wind
should set in from the westward, which is seldom the case.

About twenty-six leagues from the river Itata, on a north-half-west
course, the river Maule, mentioned in my former voyage, empties its
w^aters into the Pacific. Between these two rivers the coast is entirely
free from dangers, two cables' length from the shore. Twelve leagues
north of the Itata are three small islands, or rocks, connected with the
2Tiain, from which ships are perfectly safe at the distance of twenty
fathoms. On these rocks we found a few hair-seals, but they were
very wild.

Seventeen leagues from Rio Maule, about north-half-west, lies the
Topocalma Shoal, which is nearly three miles in length, and about the
same distance from the shore. I have seen the sea break on this reef
with great violence, but the passage between it and the main is safe
for small vessels. I would not, however, recommend it to ships, ex-
cept in case of necessit)^ This reef lies in lat. 33^ 53' S., and the
land abreast of it runs circuitously towards the river Mapo, on the
north bank of which is a small town, called by the natives Logrono,
or Antonio,

From the river Mapo, a course north-wcst-by-north leads to a white
rock, in lat. 33^ 27' S., which appears at a distance like a vessel
under sail running along the coast. This rock is nearly connected
with the shore, and forms a good landmark for distinguishing this part
of the coast. Fifteen miles north-north-west from White Rock is
Point de Couramilla, having a sugar-loaf hill near it, which has the same
appearance from different points of view on the seaboard. The coast
fi-om Topocalma Shoal to Point Couramilla is bold, and free from
dangers ; but to the northward of the latter there are some rocks, which
run out about half a mile from the land. From hence to Point Angel,
at the entrance of Valparaiso Bay, the land is high, and the course
north-north-east, about four leagues' distance. Point Angel may be
known by a house and signal-staff upon it.

December Sth. — Having thus examined the whole extent of this
coast, from Cape Tres Montes to the Bay of Valparaiso, we entered
the last-named port on Wednesday, the 8th of December, and came
to anchor in fifteen fathoms of water, about three cables' length from
shore. From this anchorage Point Angel bore west-by-north; the
fort in the town west-north-west ; the church of Almandel south-east-
by-east-half-east ; and the eastern point of the bay north-east-by-east.

174 VALPARAISO— COPIAPO. [1824.

?■ I lost no time in paying my respects to my old friend, Mr. Hogan,
M'ho received me in the most cordial and affectionate manner, tendering
his services in that kind, polite, delicate, and friendly style uhich re-
lieves a favour from the weight of obligation. Indeed, the generons
feelings of this truly good man are too prone to run ahead of his limited
means, especially in cases where the interests of his countrymen are
concerned. His life is devoted to acts of usefulness and beneficence,
nnd the emoluments of his office are nothing in comparison with the
sum of good he performs. Few things would afford me greater pleasure
than to see this venerable and faithful officer rewarded by his countiy
with some situation under the government where the labours would be
lishter and the reward more commensurate with his deserts.

As a brief description of Valparaiso, comprising all the particulars
with which I am acquainted, will be found in the journal of my former
voyage, I have nothing to add in this place. Having transacted the
little business I had to perform at this port, we sailed for Callao on
Saturday, the 11th of December, with fresh winds from south-south-
west, and fair weather. After passing Coquimbo, we touched at the
Bird Islands in search of seals, but found very few of the fur kind.
These islands are in lat. 29° 35' S., and lie about north-west from
Point Tortuga, distant eight leagues ; being ten miles from the nearest
land. Still farther north is the island of Choros. Ships may run any-
where among these islands, or between them and the main, with
perfect safety.

Eleven leagues from these islands, in the direction of north-by-west,
is the island of Canaveral, joined to the main by a small sandbank,
M'hich is covered at full sea. Six leagues farther, north-half-east, is
Point Aliade, off which there are a few rocks, which extend into the
sea for the distance of about half a mile. Nearly north, at the dis-
tance of two leagues, in lat. 28° 24' S., long. 70° 58' AV., is the port
of Huasco, or Guasco, which is merely a roadstead, open to the winds
from north to west-by-south ; which never blow at this place, however,
so as to injure any ship. The anchorage is in front of the river,
tinder a small low island, in from fifteen to seven fathoms of water,
sand and mud bottom. Huasco Hill is high, rising in two peaks, the
northernmost of which is the highest, forming a good mark in running
for this place, as there is no other like them on all the coast.

December \Ath. — ATe left the port of Huasco on Tuesday, the 14th,
and steered to the north, with a favourable wind, and fair weather ;
and on the following day w'e were off' the port of Copiapo. All the
islands and rocks between this place and Coquimbo are frequented by
hair-seals ; and a small cargo might be obtained in the pupping season.

The city of Copiapo is the capital of a province of the same name,
which contains mines of iron, copper, platina, lead, and silver, and
abounds in gold, lapis-lazuli, and fossil salt. The city is situated on
a river which also bears the same appellation, and is in lat. 27° 10' S.,
and long. 71° 4' W. The province, which stretches from the Andes
to the sea, is one hundred leagues in length, and about seventy in
breadth. Its northern part is inhabited chiefly by the hunters of an
animal called the vicugna, about the size of a tame goat, but greatly

Dec] COPIAPO. 175

exceeding it in the length of its neck and legs. In this province, as
in its more southerlj- neighbour, Coquimbo, it very seldom rains ; but
the dews fall in such abundance as in a great measure to supply the
want of rain. Snow, except on the Andes, is very uncommon ; and
on the coast entirely unknown. The climate is mild, equable, and
salubrious, and the inhabitants enjoy a constant succession of fine
weather from the beginning of spring until autumn.

Previous to tlie invasion of the Spaniards, in 1535, the provinces
of Copiapo and Coquimbo had been subdued by the Peruvians, under
their tenth inca, Yupanqui, who imposed on them an annual tribute of
gold, but made no innovation, either in their customs, manners, or gov-
ernment, all of which they were sufl'ered to retain free and unaltered,
till the year 1535, when Chili was invaded by the Spaniards, under
Diego Almagro. This brave and enterprising officer, who afterward
fell m a contest with the army of his rival, Pizarro, was succeeded by
Valdivia, who gave his name to the city and river mentioned in the first
part of this chapter. He was finally defeated by the intrepid Arau-
canians, his army cut to pieces, and himself taken prisoner. Not a
single Spaniard escaped the slaughter ; only two Promaucians, who
were now allies to their invaders, reached Conception with intelligence
of the battle. Valdivia condescended to ask his life of the conquering
Araucanians, but was put to death.

, The city of Copiapo has been frequently destroyed by earthquakes,
which have occurred at different periods, about twenty-five years dis-
tant from each other. Thus there was one in 1773, another in 1796,
and a third in 1819. The ruins, which are still visible, present a
scene of dreadful destruction ; the walls of the difi'erent buildings and
churches having fallen in difierent directions. On the west side of the
ruins, at some distance, is the silver mine of Santa Clara. There are
also gold mines in the neighbourhood.

The point of Copiapo forms a remarkable headland, and from a dis-
tance appears like an island. The river empties into the north-east
part of Salada Bay, and there is a small island lying before its en-
trance. The bluff point, or Moro of Copiapo, lies in lat. 27^ 10' S.,
long. 71° 4' W. Variation per azimuth 11° 55' easterly.

To the northward of Copiapo the coast runs north, a little westerly,
to the Bay of Mexillones, which has good anchorage under the south
shore, in from fifteen to five fathoms of water, sandy bottom. This
place is situated in lat. 23° 2' S., long. 70° 21' W. — the great Desert
of Atacama forming the interior. We continued examining the coast
in this direction to the river liOa, in lat. 21° 31' S., long 69° 57' W.
This river divides Peru from Chili, and is the boundary line between
^Atacama in the latter and Tarrapaca in the former. The coast, from
this place to Copiapo, has many small islands and rocks lying near
its shores, on each of which may be found hair-seals, the most of
which can be easily taken. The whole extent of this part of the coast
is entirely free from dangers, half a mile ofl-shore.

December 20th. — On Monday, the 20th, we left the river Loa, and
steered for Callao, with a fine breeze from south-south-east, and fair
weather ; and on Thursday, the 23d, we came to anchor on the east

176 BAY OF PISCO. [1824.

side of Sangallau's Island, within about half a mile from the mainland,
in five fatlioms of water, sandy bottom. On this island and the adja-
cent keys we found a few fur-seals. Ilair-seals were quite numerous,
but we did not take any of them.

The passage between Sangallan's and the mainland is the southern
entrance, and perhaps the best passage to approach Pisco ; though
vessels may pass on either side. It is in lat. 1.3^ 53' S., long. 76^
13' \V. After passing the east point of this entrance, you may double
immediately round to the eastward, and anchor in what is called Old
JMan's Bay, in from twelve to four fathoms of water, sandy bottom,
sheltered from all winds. There is no danger in entei^ing this pas-
sage, keeping the mainland best aboard, to avoid a sunken rock which
lies on the other side, about two cables' length from the easternmost
key, or small islet, on which the sea breaks in rough weather. The
depth of water in the passage is from thirty to twelve fathoms. From
this passage steer north-east-by-north, a little northerly, about eight
miles, which will bring you to the anchorage of Pisco. It was in the
Bay of Paraca, to the south of this anchorage, that the celebrated Lord
Cochrane landed, in 1821.

In sailing from Pisco Roads, you may pass between Sangallan's
Island and the Chinca Islands, or to the north of the last-mentioned
islands, with perfect safety, as there are no dangers around these
islands, more than two cables' length from the shores, but what show
themselves on the surface.

The Bay of Pisco has been so accurately described by Capt. Amasa
Delano, that I shall take the liberty of copying the paragraph verba-
tim, as far as it coincides with my own actual observations.

" The Bay of Pisco is large, and as clear of all dangers as any that
I ever saw. It has regular soundings all over it, of a moderate depth
of water, and tine' clear ground for a ship to anchor in. The bay is a
crescent in the land, and has a number of islands lying before the
entrance to the westward of it, which break all the sea, or wind, if
there should be any from that quarter. The islands are called the
Tinkers, and are considerably large : they have good anchoring under
the lee of them, and there are many seals on them.

" The most common way to go into Pisco is by coming from the
southward, and sailing between the island of Sangallan's and the main-
land. This island lies in latitude 13° 52' S., and has a passage be-
tween it and the main about two miles in width, which is very clear
of all kinds of danger. As soon as it is passed, the vessel must be
hauled round the point of the bay to the eastward, and sail in to the
northward and eastward, leaving all the islands and rocks to the left-
hand, for the purpose of keeping to windward. After having passed
to the eastward of all the islands in the bay, Pisco will come in view,
lying in the easterly part of it, in latitude, by our observations (though
we had not a very good opportunity to observe), 13"^ 42' S. The
anchor may be cast in four, five, or six fathoms, to the westward of
the town, though in reality there is good anchorage anywhere to the
southward of Pisco, with a better riding-place than off to the westward.

♦* The shore or landing-place at Pisco is not very good, owing to

Dec] BLOCKADE OF CALLAO. 177

a bar that lies before the town ; but at most times one can land with a
good boat, and always procure plenty of refreshments, if the govern-
ment will give permission. The to\\'n is much larger than the other
small ports on some parts of the coast, but it is an inconsiderable place.
It stands on a plain which is low, and runs for some miles back before
it borders on the mountains, and appears handsome in comparison with
any place south of this till you get to Coquimbo. It is tolerably well
supplied with all kinds of provisions^ vegetables, and fruit ; but the
fresh water is not very good. The hoiises are built after the style of
Conception and Valparaiso : the habits aitd customs of the people are
likewise similar.

" The country back has a much better aspect (on account of the
level ground before you come to the mountains) than any place to the
south for many degrees. The bay would accommodate any number
of ships, and afford them good shelter. The islands to the westward
of it are large, and aftbrd nothing but seals, eggs, and bird-manure ;
the latter is a great article of trade on the coast of Pern," &,c.

Dec. 25tk. — -After examining Sangallan's Island and the Chinca
Islands for fur-seals, with very little success, although hair-seals were
plenty, we sailed for the port of Callao, the seaport and citadel of " the
queen of cities," as Lima was formerly called by the Spaniards. This
was on Saturday, the 25th of December ; the weather was pleasant,
and we were -wafted along with a fresh breeze from south-south-east.
At two o'clock on the followinor mornine we came to anchor in Callao
roads, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom, about two cable's length
from the landing-place.

The Bay of Callao is protected from the prevailing south winds by
a long neck of land which projects into the sea, and by the large island
of St. Lorenzo, which rises opposite to this cape ; also by the small
islands of Fronton and El Corcobado. The island of St. Lorenzo is
readily known, on making it from the west or south-west, by the hills
or peaks on its north end. There are several small rocky islets lying
off the south end of this island ; but there is deep water* betw^een them,
and a clear passage for running into Callao, keeping St. Lorenzo best
ori board, until the castle on Callao Point opens north of the low sandy
point to the west of it. But though this entrance to Callao is perfectly
safe for those who are acquainted, with it, I would advise strangers to
go round the north end of St. Lorenzo. The shore on the north side-
of the bay is bold, and free from dangers.

Callao was at this time in possession of the royal troops, under
General Rodil, commandant of the castle and fortress by which the
place is defended. Although the port was declared to be under block-
ade by the patriots, I found no difficulty in passing in unmolested. The
independence of Peru had been at length accompHshed by the decisive
victory of Ayacucho, fought seventeen days before ray arrival. Bolivar
was then at Lima, invested with dictatorial powers, and the main body
of the liberating army from Colombia was coriimanded by Antonio Jose de
Sucre. Five months of skilful manoeuvring on either side preceded the
battle : the result is well known ; the royalists were defeated with great
slaughter. La Serna the viceroy was pursued and taken prisoner ;

'M %

178 TOWN OF CALL.\0. [1824.

and General Ganterac, the second in command, found it necessary to
capitulate.

By the terms of capitulation, all the Spanish possessions in Peru
were to be given up, including the castles of Callao ; and all the officers,
stores, military magazines, and arms were to remain in possession of
the patriots. But the commandant (Rodil) refused to surrender in com-
pliance with the capitulation, and continued to defend the castles of
Callao with unyielding obstinacy. Bolivar Iiad therefore issued a
proclamation declaring the port to be in strict blockade ; and that Rodil,
by his conduct in holding the castles, should be considered as having
separated himself from the Spanish nation, and cut himself off from all
the rights of nations. Adequate forces were also assembled by sea
and land, and the castles closely invested. The patriots had erected
a battery within gun-shot of Callao, and the besiegers and besieged
were continually firing upon each other, but without much effect.
Hodil was well supplied with stores and ammunition, and rejected
every proposal for his surrender.*

Such was the state of affairs when I entered the port of Callao on
the 26th of December, 1824, and anchored near the town. A United
iStates' squadron, under Commodore Hull, was lying in the roadstead,
consisting of the frigate United States, the sloop-of-war Peacock, and
schooner Dolphin : their object was the protection of North American
commerce, which had suffered much during the struggle of the revo-
lution.

CHAPTER I\.

The Port of Callao — Destruction of the Town in 1746 — Condition of the Place in
1824 — Closely invested by Land and Sea — Did not " catch a Tartar" — The City
of Lima — Sail from Callao — Arrive at Quilca — Visit the City of Arequipa — Sail
from Quilca — Arrive at Port Santa — Cruise along the Coast — Port of Guan-
chaco — City of Truxillo — Bay of Caraccas, and the surrounding Country — View
of Chimborazo — A Nation in the Clouds — Volcano of Pichinca — Eruption of
Cotopaxi — Sail from Caraccas Bay — Arrive at Cocos Island.

Callao, as the reader probably knows, is a seaport town of Peru,
situated on the south-east side of a beautiful bay or harbour, which
fonns the mouth of the River Rimac, or Lima ; on the south side of
which, seven or eight miles more inland, stands the celebrated city of
that name. Previous to the dreadful earthquake of 1746, Callao was
considered by the Spaniards to be impregnable : it was then fortified
by ten bastions and several batteries, and defended by a strong garri-
.son. But that Callao was entirely destroyed by the visitation just
alluded to, and the present town stands farther from the water, con-
sisting of a single street, not more than half a mile in length, follo\ving

"* For a more particular description of this siege, see the Annual Register, pabUshed by G & C.
CMvill, for 1625-6, p. 18S.

Dec] DESTRUCTION OF CALLAO. I79

the curvature of the bay : this street is intersected by two or three
others, which are of course very snort, except the one which commences
the great road to Lima.

The houses generally are of one story only, with flat roofs, whicik
is of no mconvenience in a country like this, where it seldom or never
rains. For the greater security against earthquakes, these buildings
are constructed in a pecuhar manner, and covered with exceedingly
light materials. 'In the first place, the size and shape of the intended
edifice is carefully marked out upon the ground which it is intended to
occupy. Tiien, instead of proceeding to lay a foundation as we do,
they dig deep holes in the ground along the line which marks the build-
ing's dimensions, about six feet apart, in which they firmly set posts
of twelve or eighteen inches in circumference, and of sufficient height
10 form a dwelling. On the outside of these posts long sticks of bam-
boo, an inch or more in diameter, are fastened in a horizontal position,
with thongs of undressed hide. They commence at the ground, where
they lash on three bamboos close together ; two feet above them, they
lash on three more, and so on to the top, leaving about the same dis-
tance between each triplet of bamboos : through these horizontal layers
more slender bamboos are woven perpendicularly as closely as possible.
On the outside of all is put a coat of plastering, and the walls of the
house are completed. The roofs are of cane, and are woven and plastered
in the same manner ; so that in the most violent earthquake, unless the
ground be broken, nothing can fall but bamboos and plaster, the weight
of which might bruise, but would hardly fracture a limb, much less
destroy life.

The old town was differently constructed, and " great was the fall
thereof;" but though the earthquake v/as the cause of its destruction,
it was not the immediate instrument. " The sea," says Ulloa, " re-
ceding to a considerable distance from the shore, returned in moun-
tainous waves, foaming with the violence of the agitation, and suddenly ,
turned Callao and the neighbouring country into a sea. This was not,
however, totally performed by the first swell of the waves ; for the sea,
Tetiring farther" (so far, says another writer, as to leave the shipping
dry), " returned with still more impetuosity, — the stupendous masses
of water covering both the walls and other buildings of the place ; so
that whatever had escaped the first irruption was now totally over-
whelmed bv these terrible mountains of waves, and nothing remained
except a piece of the wall of tlie port of Santa Cruz as a memorial of
this terrible devastation.

"There were then in the harbour twenty-three ships and other
•vessels, great and small, of which nineteen were absolutely sunk;
Avhile the other four, one of which was a frigate called St. Fermus,
were carried by the force of the waves to a great distance up the
country. This terrible inundation extended to other parts of the coast,
as Cavallos and Guanape. At Callao, where the number of inhabitants
amounted to about four thousand, two hundred only escaped ; and
twenty-two of these by means of the above-mentioned fragment of a
wall."

'Thus was Callao entirely swept away ; and according to Captain

180 TOW^- OF CALLAO. [188*.

Delaiio, who received his information fiotn an antiquated survivor, " ihe
sea broke over the ground where it stood for several days successively
after it happened. This," he adds, '• so entirely destroyed the soil
that it has never collected since so as to produce a spire of grass."
CapUiin Delano was here in 1805, nineteen years before my visit ; and
on surveying tlie site of the former town, he says, " The sight was
shocking to a man ol sensibility to see the piles of human bones that
lie here. The principal remains or signs of a town were the britk
arches and stoned cellars which v/erc not destroyed by the earthquake.
My companions infornicd me that some of the arches were the ruins
of prisonji, w here all the foreigners, as well as the lower order of the
Spanish people, M-ere confined. 'J'hese arches were fdlcd with human
bones, as were also most of the cellars, without anj'' kind of covering
over them. The reason, as I was informed, tliat the arches were so
lilled with the bones was, that there were people employed to pick them
lip as fast as they worked out of the gravel, and put them into these
cellars and arches, but they had not yet put them all in. I presume
we saw many cart-loads strewed all over the ground, besides those that
were already picked up and deposited." The same earthquake almost
totally destroyed the city of Lima.

Callao road, bay, or harbour is the largest, safest, and most beautiful
cf any in the South Seas.* It contains no rocks, and the M'ater is very-
deep. As the winds which prevail here during the winter always
blow from some point between the south-cast and the south, but most
generally from the south, the water in the bay is always tranquil, being
sheltered by Callao Point and the island of St. Lorenzo. The river
of Lima, which discharges itself into the sea under the walls of Callao,
furnishes an abundance of good water ; and the loading and unloading
of vessels are facilitated by a mole furnished with cranes, &c.

The turbulent state of the times during the revolutions and counter-
revolutions which had distracted South America for several years pre-
vious to my visiting its western coast, had greatly retarded the growth
of her cities, and the prosperity of the inhabitants. While under the
' government of the Spanish viceroys, the cities and towns of Peru were
more populous than at present. In the year 1810 the population of
Callao was estimated at live thousand ; but in 1829 the Rev. Mr. Stewart
reports it to be about two thousand. When I visited it in 1824, as
related in this journal, it was difficult to form any^ accurate estimate.
Most of its males were in the oatriot armv, and many of its inhabitants
iiad removed to more tranquil situations.

As the seaport of Lima, Callao has been a place of considerable
commerce, and will no doubt become so agam when the new republics
have once settled down on a permanent basis. Before the provinces
threw off the Spanish yoke, Lima was the general emporium of the
xiceroyalty, and the common factory for commerce of every kind. Or
the arrival of a fleet at Callao with European commodities, the merchant^
of Lima would forward to their correspondents in other cities such ar-
ticles as they had received commissions to purchase, and reserve tiie

* The Paciflc Orean was firs:t called the South Seas, because the Spaniards crossed the IsOlcnos
«r Darien from north to south when they discovered it.

Dec] CITY OF LIMA. 181

rest in warehouses, to be disposed of on their own account to traders
who resorted to the place, or to be sent to their factors in the inland
provinces. The produce of these sales in the interior was remitted in
bars of silver, upon which also a gl-eat profit was made at the mint.

The city of Lima, of which so much has been said, sung, and writ-
ten, is the capital of Peru, and was founded by the celebrated Pizarro,
on the 15th of January, 1535. It stands in the midst of a broad, spa-
r-ions, fruitful, and delightful valley, called Rimac^ which received its
name from an idol formerly worshipped there by the Peruvians. The
word signifies " He who speaks,'" and is supposed to have been corrupted
•by the Spanish pronunciation into Lima. A river of the same name
runs close by the city, on the north, watering the valley by numerous
canals, and falling into the sea near Callao ; from the roadstead of
which can be seen the towers and domes of " tJie splendid city" stretch-
ing for a mde or more in the distance, with the gigantic Andes soaring
in hoary majesty at least thirty miles beyond them. These features
present a beautiful appearance, as Jjeen from the bay where I was now
at anchor, and excited a strong desire in my bosom to visit the " queen
of cities." But tnat was now impossible; I had therefore to rest con-
tented with such imperfect descriptions as I could pick up from those
who had been there, which I afterward found to be correct from my
own observations.

The form of the city is triangular, the longest side extending along
the banks of the river above three thousand yards ; and the greatest
breadth from tlie base to the apex is about two thousand two hundred.
The whole of the town is surroimded with a brick wall, flanked by
thirty-four bastions; the streets, which are broad and regular, cross
each other at right angles : they are well paved, and kept constantly
clean by streams of water from the river, which are arched over, and
rendered subsenient not only to cleanliness, but to many other conve-
niences. The number of streets in Lima is not less than tliree hun-
dred and fifty.

Pizarro, in laying out this city, distributed the spaces for the houses
into quarters of one hundred and fifty varas, or Spanish yards. The
houses of the wealthy have gardens attached to them, which are wa-
tered by the canals that run through the city : these houses are gene-
rally built in the Moorish style, as introduced into old Spain by their
invaders, — consisting of a square pile, of two stories, enclosing a quad-
rangular court, which is surrounded witli piazzas, and sometimes con-
tain a second, or even a third inner court. Those of the less opulent,
though low, are generally commodious, and of a handsome appearance ;
they are constructed of wood, on account of tlie frequent earthquakes,
but are so plastered and painted as to resemble stone editices.

The best buildings are in and near the centre of the city, and th€?
houses gradually decrease in beauty and convenience as the streets
approach the circumference. Indeed, Mr. Stewart very justly remarks,
that on entering the city from the Callao avenue, the appearance of
Lima is far from being prepossessing. " I scarce ever felt greater
surprise," says this obser\'ant traveller, "than on entering the first
street after passing the gate. Instead of ' the splendid city,' of which

182 CITY OF LIMA. [1824.

from childhood I had read with such admiration, I was tempted to think
myself in Timbuctoo itself. Mud houses of one low stor}', with large
doors and grated windows, exposing filth and poverty to view, inhabited
only by negroes and mulattoes, thronging in gaping and half-naked
crowds about the doors and corners, were alone in sight.

" By degrees, however, the appearance began to improve : the houses
became more neat and loftv, till somediing like civilization and comfort,
if not elegance, was to be seen. But even in the best streets through
Avhich we passed every thing v.ore a decayed and shabby appearance,
svhile the covered verandas projecting from the second story, of clumsy
architecture and dark colours, threw an air of gloom over the streets."

Much of the decayed and shabby appearance above alluded to is
attributable to the horrors of civil war ; lor no city can be alternately
occupied by hostile armies without suffering in its appearance, as well
as in its moral and commercial health. But Lima is now gradually
improving in both, and may yet resume the splendid rank she for-
merly held.

On the opposite side of the river, connected with the city by abridge
of brown freestone, is the suburb of St. Lazaro, of considerable extent,
equalling the city itself in the regularity of its streets and the beauty
of its edifices. The bridge is necessarih* very substantial and lofty,
as the Kiver Rimac is at some seasons swollen to an immense torrent
by the melting of snow and ice on the Andes : wbile in the winter the
stream is shallow and insignificant, sometimes " presenting ouly a mass
of dry gravel, intersected in two or three places by small rivulets, purl-
ing like so many brooks in their pebbly courses." The river here is
about one hundred vards in width.

The grand square, or Plaza, as the inhabitants term it, in the middle
of the city, is about three hundred and eighty feet in extent on each*
side ; and the centre of it is occupied by a handsome brass fountain,
Ti-hich formerly must have been highly ornamental to it. Historians
describe it as being magnificent, " ornamented by a bronze statue of
Fame, from the trumpet of which, and the mouths of eight lions sur-
rounding it, the water is ejected." During the struggles of the revolution,
however, this fountai^i was suffered to become dilapidated and out of
Tepair, so that it had ceased to play when I visited the city in 1825.
Captain Delano describes it, in 1805, as "spouting the water ten or
twelve feet high, so as to fall into a square reservoir, from which it
conthmally runs through about twelve copper pipes into a basin of
sixteen or eighteen feet diameter, and has a conductor through which
the superfluous water runs off. The rim of this basin is just high enough
for the people to step over and fill their kegs, which vessels are the
most common in use for that purpose."

The east side of the Plaza., or public square, is occupied by the
cathedral and archbishop's palace, bolh of which are large buildings,
partly constructed of stone; On the north side of the square is the
palace formerly the residence of the viceroy, but now of the republican
president : this building is said to have been erected by Pizarro, at the
founding of the city in 1536 ; and they show strangers one o( the halls
of the apartment in which the tyrant was assassinated ; another exten-

Dec] CITY OF LIMA. 183

sive apartment in tlie same building is called the Hall of Independence.
On the west side is the town-house and city-prison ; and the south is
occupied with private houses, which have fronts of stone, adorned with
elegant porticoes.

The churches and chapels, which are partly built of stone, are deco-
rated in the most splendid style, with paintings and ornaments of the
greatest value. But the riches which have been lavished on the cathe-
dral are almost beyond belief, though characteristic of a people who
once paved a whole street with ingots of silver in honour of the arrival
of a new viceroy ! Among the other public buildings worthy of notice,
I would mention the cabildo, or city-house, built in the Chinese style ;
the mint ; the palace of the Inquisition, part of Avhich is now occupied
as a national museum ; and the convent of the Franciscans, said ta
cover an eighth of the whole city. There were formerly more than
twelve himdred monks in this place, but the number is now very much
reduced. There are fourteen convents for women, and an edifice for
a university, that was founded in 1576.

The women of Lima are celebrated for their beauty, vivacity, and
extravagance in dress. "They have handsome persons, fair com-
plexions, beautiful hair, and a pleasing lustre in their eyes : their intel-
lects are very acute, their behaviour easy, yet respectful, and their con-
versation inexpressibly interesting ; and though chargeable with a
considerable degree of haughtiness, even towards their husbands, yet
their address, affection, and general discretion are seldom equalled in
any other part of the world. The women of the lower classes, besides
imitating their superiors in the love of dress, are remarkably cleanly,
and keep their houses in the utmost neatness. They are naturally
sprightly in their dispositions, and fond of music and dancing. The
reigning passions, in short, of the fair sex in this city are show, mirth,
and festivity ; and the inhabitants generally are distinguished by their
vivacity, intelligence, and agreeable manners.'"*

Both sexes smoke tobacco, for which they excuse themselves by
saying that it is to guard against the deleterious effects of a certain
mist and drizzle which hangs over the city at some particular seasons,
and Nvhich is called Peruvian dew. The Spaniards in Lima are all
Creoles ; and the whole population, comprising negroes, Indians, mes-
tizoes, and other castes, together with the Spaniards, has been variously
estimated at from fifty to seventy thousand. In 1824 there were
fifteen thousand slaves in the city, but slavery has since been abolished.

This city has frequently been laid in ruins by earthquakes ; and in
1746, when Callao was destroyed, not more than twenty houses Avere
left standinjr in Lima, out of more than three thousand. Since the
year 1582 more than twenty earthquakes have occurred, of such vio-
lence as to occasion more or less damage to the buildings, and destruc-
tion of lives.

The country around Lima is remarkably fertile, producing all kinds
of grain and fruits in the greatest abundance ; and the fields are regu-
larly irrigated by trenches and canals arranged for the purpose. The

* Ediaburgh Encyclopedia.

184 FORT OF CALLAO— QUILCA. [1825.

provisions with which the city is supplied are equally abundant and
excellent.

The road from Lima to Callao is straight, wide, and level ; but at
this time untravelled, being occupied by the besieging army of patriots,
who had possession of Bella Vista, a dilapidated town about two miles
from the port. General Rodil's artillery was daily playing upon the
ruins of this place, and no doubt assisted m completing the half-accom-
plished devastation of time and earthquakes.

Dec. 26tk. — Early on the morning of my arrival in the port of Callao
t^ star-spangled banner was displayed at the mast-head of the Tartar,
to the no small surprise of the officers ,of the United States' squadron,
who had not seen us enter ; and Commodore Hull soon sent an officer
on board to inquire our character and business. The latter, however,
I did not think j)roper to communicate, as the success of some com-
jnercial speculations depends entirely on prudence and reserve ; and
though a ship-master may do what he pleases with his own secrets, he
has no right to dispose of the secrets of others. In a subsequent inter-
view with the commodore himself, he expressed some curiosity on the
subject, and wondered why I should have ventured into a port so
closely invested; when, if I escaped the blockading squadron, he
thought I was still liable to become the victim of Rodil's cupidity, who
was already straitened for provisions. My answer was evasive ; but
as there is no necessity for the same reserve with the reader, I shall
now be more explicit. I knew, from information that I had received at
St. Carlos, that there were individuals in Callao who belonged to Are-
quipa, an Episcopal town on the River Quilca, about two himdred and
seventeen leagues south-east of Lima. 1 knew likewise that thev were
anxious to return home, and not remain shut up in a besieged citadel,
the commandant of which had resolved never to surrender, but to hold
out till death. I further knew that their escape could only be efl'ected
in a swift-sailing vessel like the Tartar, which could bid defiance to the
vigilance of the blockading squadron. It was therefore to affi)rd these
people an opportimity of escaping the horrors of a siege, and perhaps
death by famine, that I entered the port of Callao on Sunday morning,

the 16th of December, 1824.

* * *- * * ** * #

Jcui. Isf, 1825. — After frequent interviews with General Rodil on
the subject, I obtained -permission to take away nineteen passengers,
male and female, belonging to the city of A requipa, with whom I sailed
on New-year's day, 1825, for the port of (Quilca. It was five, P. M.,
when we got under way, with a line breeze liom south-east-by-south,
and fair weather. We continued beatinir to windward, standing in-
shore, until about ten, P. M., when we took the wind from east-south-
east, within a mile of the shore ; tacked ship, and stood ofl-shore until
nine or ten, A. M. The wind then gradually hauled from east-south-
cast to south-east, and often to south-south-east, when we would tack
again, and stand in-shore. In this manner we continued to take ad-
vantage of the wmd imtil we arrived at our destined port.

Jan. 8th. — On Saturday, the 8th of January, we arrived in safety at
the port of Quilca, and anchored on the bank nearly abreast of the

Jan.] PORT OF QUILCA—AREQUIPA. 185

town, fh fourteen fathoms of water, mud and sandy bottom. Latitude
16° 41' S., long. 72° 58' W. Variation per azimuth 10° 27' easterly.
On the following day we landed our passengers.

The town or village of Quilca is the seaport of Arequipa, a fine
inland city, situated on the same river, about twenty leagues from the
coast. Quilca is a small place, comprisiug about seventy-live houses, or
rather huts, built at the liead of a small cove, about two miles north-
north-west of the anchoraiie. The entrance to this cove is narrow,
and between two blufi" points ; at the head of it the landing is smooth,
and small vessels may lie here with perfect safety, moored to ring-
bolts in the rocks, on each side tiie basin. The houses in the village
are generally of singidar construction ; being built with reed mats,
and covered with thatch. »Some of them are surrounded with veran-
das, and covered with aflat cane roof; without chimneys or glazed
windows, and the doors are made of basket-work, or wicker.

The ground about the town is coyered with a white dust or powder,
supposed to have been thrown out of the volcano of Arequipa, during
some of its dreadful eruptions, in " by-gone years." This is not only
very unpleasant to the eyes of strangers, but it has also destroyed
vegetation, and rendered the country nearly barren. In sailing along
this part of the coast, the volcano of Arequipa presents a remarkable
appearance, that of a smgle sharp-pointed peak, rising about two thou-
sand feet above the level of the sea.

About twenty miles to the south-east of Quilca is Aranta road ; and
to the north-vrest is the village of Camana, situated in an extensive
and beautiful valley.-

About live miles to the north-west of Camana are several small
■islands, or rocks, called tlie Pescadores, lying near tlie shore. On
passing thesR islets, v/e must give the bank of Camana , a good berth;
and immediately afterward we suddenly deepen the water. We then
stand in-shore, keeping the land close on board, as there are no dan-
gers, until we are abreast of the high land of Quilca, whpre we imme-
diately anchor abreast of a small valley, in from twenty to twelve
fathoms of water. This anchorage is open to the seaward, entirely
unsheltered, and exposed to a heavy swell which rolls in from the
south-south-west. The shipping are seen lying at anchor as we ap-'
proach the port.

The city of Arequipa, or, as it is sometimes spelled, Arequiba, is the
capital of a Peruvian province bearing the same name. It is situated
about twenty leagues from the coast, in the delightful and fertile valley
of Qudca, on the margin of a beautiful river, and is said to be nearly
eight thousand feet above the level of the sea. This city was founded
in the vear 1536, by the celebrated Francisco Pizarro, who first marked
out a place for it in a different situation ; but repeated earthquakes,,
and the inconvenience arising from its being too near a terrible vol-
cano, induced the inhabitants to leave it, and to remove to tiieir present
site. The word " Arequipa''' signifies, in the Peruvian language, " to
remain" and the district was thus named, because the troops of the
inca who conquered the country became so fond of it that they en-
treated their leader to pennit them to remain there for the rest ot their

186 COAST OF PERU. [1825.

lives. Tlie inca granted their request ; and in commemoratioif of the
event, called the conquered territory by the name of Arequipa.

Arequipa is a large well-built city ; the houses being neatly con-
structed of stone, vaulted, and much decorated on the outside. Among
its public buildings arc a cathedral, a college, an hospital, three nunne-
ries, six convents, several churches, <fec. &c. In the centre of the
great square there is an elegant fountain of bronze, which was the
usual appendage to all the cities which Pizarro founded. There is
also a handsome bridge over the river. This city is subject to earth-
quakes, and lias been four or five times laid in ruins by that dreadful
scourge of South America. This evil, however, seems to be over-
balanced by the mildness of the climate, and the fertility of the coun-
try round about it. Behind the city rise three lofty mountains, one of
Mhich is called the volcaro of Arequipa, or the Peak of Miste, being
one of the most elevated fiummits of the Andes. The population of
this place has been variously estimated from twenty-four to forty thou-
sand souls. The air is dry, and the climate mild and salubrious.
Arequipa is in latitude 16° 20' S., long. 72° 17' W.

I returned to Quilca on the 14th, and on the following morning, at
eight, A. M., we got under way, and again directed the Tartar's course
to the north. It may not be useless to mention in this place, that the
high land adjacent forms an excellent mark to designate the entrance
to Quilca, which lies immediately on the north-west extremity of the
high bluff shore at the south-east of the river's ifiouth. From this
place to Hay harbour, at the eastward, the land is high and abrupt,
with a bold shore, clear of dangers.

January \^th. — We left Quilca on Saturday, the 15th, with a fine
breeze from south-south-east, and fine weather ; and on Tuesday, the
18th, at six, A. M., we were close in with the island of St. Martm,
which lies directly in front of the town and river of Huaura. At this
island, and some small ones in its vicinity, we found a few hair-seals.
These islets rise immediately out of the sea, with steep bold shores ;
and the coast between here and Callao is free from (gangers, within
half a mile of the beach. There are rnany salt ponds and pits between
Callao and Guarmey River, the latter being in latitude 10° 7' south.
You may anchor under the south point of this port, in from ten to five
fathoms, mud and sandy bottom, where a vessel will lie tolerably
smooth. The town contains about two hundred houses and two
churches, and is a fine place to procure refreshments of all kinds.
AVood and water, of a good quality, may be had here with little trouble.

January 20fh. — On leaving this place, we continued examining the
coast to the north, finding many small rocky islets, most of which
contained hair-seals, until Thursday, the 20th, when we arrived at
Fort Santa, in latitude 8° 56' south. A little to the south of the town
is the island of Santa, behind which vessels may anchor, and lie in
perfect safety, in from ten to four fathoms of water, muddy bottom,
abreast of the river Santa, where fresh water may easily be obtained,
together with wood, and refreshments of almost every description, at
a very low rate. ..

This town is quite populous, and the inhabitants appear to be

Jan.] CITY OF TRUXILLO. 187

friendly and hospitable. The air is salubrious, the climate raild, and
the soil productive. The shores and waters abound with shell and
scale-fish of an excellent quality. The surrounding country is said
to be very fertile, the plantations producing sugar, wheat, cocoa, indigo,
coffee, maize, olives, vines, fruits, and vegetables in abundance. The
natives are an interesting, friendly, and industrious people. The inte-
rior abounds with wild animals, and the forests are inhabited and visited
by a great variety of beautiful birds.

January 2\st. — On Friday, the 21st, we arrived at Guanchaco, the
seaport of Truxillo, a Peruvian city of some celebrity, of which I
^hall speak presently. The port of Guanchaco is six or eight miles
north-west of it, in latitude 8° V S., long. 78° 58' W. Variation per
azimuth 8° 57' easterly.

This place is easily knoun by the bell mountain which rises in the
interior, to the south of Truxiljo, and by the mountain of Malabrigo, a
little to the north of Guanchaco, which descends to the seashore.
The coast between this place and Port Santa has many small reefs
and sunken rocks, some of which extend nearly two miles into the
sea; and from Guanchaco to Callao there are many small rocky
islands, lying near the shore, all of which contain hair-seals. I believe
that a vessel might soon collect a cargo of hair-seal skins from the
islands and rocks along this coast, were she to come in the proper
seasons — namely, when they visit the shore to breed, and when they
return to shed their coats.

Truxillo is another South American city which owes its origin to
the Spanish conqueror of Peru, Francisco Pizarro, who founded it in
the year 1535, and gave it the name of his native city in old Spain.
It stands in the fertile valley of Chimo, on the north side of the river
Moche, about two miles from the sea, shut in by two majestic moun-
tains. The city is surrounded with a brick wall, and the houses gen-
erally are constructed of the same material ; embellished with stately
balconies and superb porticoes. Few of them, however, exceed one
story in height, on account of those terraneous convulsions to which
all these countries are more or less subject.

The population of Truxillo, including Spaniards, Indians, mestizoes,
mulattoes, &c., is estimated at about eight thousand souls. The inhab-
itants, generally, in their character, manners, customs, and habits, are
much like those of Lima ; the women are as handsome, as accom-
plished, and as fond of dress ; and the city has suffered nearly as
m.uch as its neighbour by the prolonged struggle of the revolution.

The surrounding country is picturesque in appearance, and prolific
in all the comforts of life. The fertile plains in this district are cov-
ered with sugar-canes and vineyards ; wheat and different kinds of
grain have been cultivated with so much success in that part of it
near the Andes, that these articles are exported to Panama, on the
Isthmus of Darien. In the neighbourhood of the city are still extant
the ruins of several Peruvian monuments that were sacked by the
earher settlers. The waters of a neighbouring river are carried
through the whole of this delightful country by canals and other arti-
ficial conveyances.

188 " COAST OF COLOMBIA— MOUNT CHIMBORAZO. [1825.

January 2Zd. — On Sunday, the 23d, we left the Malabrii^o Islands,
lying about nprth-west-by-west from Guancliaco, distant eight leagues,
and steered to the north-west, with a light breeze from the south-east,
and fair weather. On the following day we passed Point Aguja, which
projects from tlie main, in latitude 5° 58' S., long. 81° 1' W. The
coast to the south-east of the cape is low, until we come to the hill of
Eton. The land between the two last-mentioned places forms a part
of the Desert of Sechura. After passing Cape Blanco, the coast
lends to the north-east to the river Tumbez, wliich marks the boundary
between Peru and Colombia.

January 26th. — Crossing the Gulf of Guayaquil, we continued
standing along shore to the north, until Monday, the 24th, when we
arrived at Sahingo Bay, at six, A. M., and after examining the islands
of Peledo and Salango, we steered for Callo Island. We found no
dangers round these islands, nor any tiling else, except birds and hair-
seals ; we therefore directed our course for the Bay of Caraccas, where
we arrived on AVednesday, the 26tli, and anchored near the mouth of
the river, in four fathoms of water, clay bottom ; latitude 0° 31' S.,
long. 80° ir W. Variation per azimuth 8° 13' easterly.

In entering this bay, stricjt attention must be paid to the lead, as
there are many shoals to the north and in front of the entrance ; and
there are some also on the south-west side of the bay. The water
being generally smooth here, these dangers seldom show themselves
on the surface, and therefore render the greater caution necessary. If
it be the navigator's wish to anchor near the mouth of the river, he
will approach it on the south-west side, where he may anchor within
half a mile of it, between two banks that are nearly dry at low water.
The western bank will completely shelter him from the seaward, and he
will have four fothoms of water at low tide, with sufficient room for
•four or five other ships to lie in his company, with perfect safety.

From this place we had a fine view of the gigantic Chimborazo,
towering in awful majesty, v/ith his snow-crowned summit far above
the clouds. This moimtain, like Mont Blanc of the Alps, in Savoy,
Ibrms the extremity of a colossal group ; for in the ancient kingdom
of Quito, the capital of which is nearly due east of our anchorage,
the three chains of ihe Andes are intermingled into one cluster, com-
prising no less than sixteen lofty peaks, many of which are living vol-
canoes. The most elevated summits are ranged in two files, which
in some measure form a double crest to the Cordillera. These are
literally mountains piled upon mountains, for the highest ridge of the
Andes forms the bottom of tlie valleys which separate these volcanic
peaks ! The lowest level of these plateaus is still eight thousand
four hundred feet above the bosom of the bay on which the Tartar
was now riding at anchor ! It is in these aerial valleys, or on these lofty
plateaus, that the immense population' of this wonderful country is
concentrated ; and there, too, are situated towns that contain from
thirty to fifty thousand inhabitants.

That euterprismg and scientific traveller Humboldt, who has thrown
Toore light on the physical geography of South America than any
©ther writer, expresses himself on this subject m the following terms : —

Jan.] VOLCANOES OF QUPTO. 180

" After living some months on this elevated plateau, where the barom-
eter stands at 21.33 inches English, the traveller experiences an
extraordinary illusion. He gradually forgets that every surrounding
object — those villages that proclaim the industry of a nation of moun-
taineers ; those pastures, covered at the same time with lamas, and with
the sheep of Europe ; those orchards bordered with quickset hedges
of the Duranta and the Barnadesia ; those luxuriant and liighly culti-
vated cornfields — occupy a station, suspended^ as it were, in the high
regiohs of the atmosphere ; and he can scarce bring iiimself to believe
that this habitable region is even still farther elevated above the neigh-
bouring shores of the Pacific Ocean, tlian the Pyrenean summit of
Canigou is above the basin of the Mediterranean."

The majestic Chimborazo, says Malte Brun, is probably nothing but
an extinguished volcano. The snow which for centuries has crowned
its colossal peak v/ill probably, one day or other, be melted by the
remorseless fires pent up within its vast and fathomless caverns resum-
ing their destructive activity. But one of the greatest volcanoes on the
surface of the whole globe is much nearer the city of Quito than is
Chimborazo. It is called Pichinca, and rises eleven miles south of
the equator, to the height of fifteen thousand nine hundred and thirty-
nine feet above the level of the ocean, as measured by Humboldt.

Three rocky peaks rise from the circumference of Pichirica's crater,,
as if shooting up from the abyss below. They are not covered with
snow, because it is constantly melted by the vapours that exhale from
the volcano. " In order the better to examine the bottom of the crat«r,"
says Humboldt, "we lay down flat on our breasts ; and I do not be-
lieve that the imagination could figure to itself any thing more melan-
choly, gloomy, and terrific than what we now beheld. The mouth
of the volcano forms a circular hole of nearly a league in circumfer-
ence, the sides of which, a perpendicular precipice, are covered above
with snow to their very edge. The interior v>as of a deep black ; but
the gulf is so immense that we could distinguish the tops of several
mountains that are situated within it. Their summits appeared to be
two or three hundred fathoms (^toises) below us — judge then where
must be their base ! I myself have no doubt that the bottom of the
crater is on a level with the city of Qmto."

But the most formidable volcano of all this group is that of Coto-
paxi^ rising to nearly eighteen thousand nine hundred feet above the
level of the ocean ; as its eruptions have been the most frequent and
the most destructive of any in South America. Its last was in the year
1803. The cinders and fragments of rocks that have been ejected at
different limes by this volcano cover the neighbouring valleys to an
extent of several square leagues. In 1758 the flames of Cotopaxi shot
np to a height of two thousand seven hundred feet above the edge of
the crater. In 1744 the roaring of this volcano was heard as far as
Honda, a town situated on the river Magdalena, at a distance of two
hundred leagues. On the 4th of April, in the year 1768, the quan-
tity of ashes vomited up from the mouth of Cotopaxi was so great that
in the towns of Hambato and Tacunga, the sky continued as dark as
night until the third hour after midday. The eruption which took

190 CARACGAS BAY AND RIVER. [1825.

pla^e in' the 'month of January, 1803, was preceded by a frightful
phenomenon — the sudden mehing of the snows that covered the
mountain. For more than twenty years neither smoke nor any dis-
tinguishable vapour had issued from the crater ; and yet, in a single
night, the subterranean fire had become so active, that at sunrise the
external walls of the cone, strongly heated, had become naked, and
had acquired the black colour which is peculiar to vitrified scoriae. At
the port of Guayaquil, fifty-two leagues in a straight line from the edge
of the crater, Humboldt heard, day and night, the roaring of this vol-
cano, like repeated discharges of artillery.*

The country on both sides of Caraccas bay and river is the most
beautiful that can possibly be imagined. The soil is rich and fertile,
producing in great abundance cocoa, coffee, rice, Indian corn, tobacco,
and a great variety of excellent fruits. Among other valuable woods
are laurel, ebony, cedar, saffron, cinnamon, balsam, and oak. All
kinds of vegetables are plenty, as are also honey and wax. This is
one of the best places on the coast to procure a cargo of cocoa, as you
may depend on its being of the very best quality that grows in this
country ; whereas, if you go to Guayaquil to procure this article, you
are liable to be imposed upon by adulterations. The best coffee and
wax may likewise be had at this place, and at a much lower rate than
at Guayaquil.

Among the animal productions of this country are cattle, horses,
sheep, goats, hogs, and poultr)', in abundance. The forests are well
tenanted with a great variety of wild animals, including a multitude
of birds of very beautiful plumage. The usual temperature of the
atmosphere being warm and moist, brings into existence innumerable
swarms of insects and animals of a noxious kind. But the period of
their existence is not very protracted, as the south-west winds, which
generally prevail from May to December inclusive, destroy them in
great numbprs. In the height of the wet season, the alligators and
other disagreeable reptiles spread themselves over the country, and
become very troublesome to the natives ; but in the fair-weather season
they cause very little annoyance.

The south-west winds, just alluded to, commence blowing about
noon, and continue until after davlight the next morning. Durinsr
those months of the year in which these winds prevail, the atmosphere
is very clear, and it is seldom or never known to rain ; but from Janu-
ary to the last of April the heat is very oppressive, accompanied with
frequent and heavy falls of rain, with tremendous thunder-storms, and
very sharp lightning.

There are several small towns situated on the banks of this river ;
and near the head of it is quite a populous one, called Hipperhapper.
The country beyond this, towards the Andes, is prolific in vegetable
productions, gold-dust, manilla, copal, and many valuable drugs.

February 3c/. — Having transacted the business which took me into
Caraccas Bay, and procured some necessary refreshments for o\k
cruise, we got under way on Saturday, the 29th of January, shaping
our course for Cocos Island, at which we arrived on Thursday, the
3d of Februarv.

* Malte Brun's System of Geography, vol. ii. p. 292.

Feb.] COCOS ISL.VND. 191

CHAPTER V.

Cocos Island — Galapagos Islands — Eraption of a Volcano on Narborough Island
— Critical Situation of the Tartar — A fruitless Search for Gallego and other ima-
ginary Islands — Arrive on the Coast of California — Island of Guadaloupe —
Cerros Island — Bay of St. Francis — Near to our native Land, and yet far from
it — The Gulf of California and River Colorado — A new Route from the United
States to the Pacific Ocean — Old California — Cenezos Island — Port San Diego
in New California — Character of the Inhabitants, &c.

Cocos Island is situated in the North Pacific Ocean, about one
hundred and seventeen leagues west-south-west of the Gulf of Panama,
at the Isthmus of Darien, and one hundred and forty leagues north-east
of the Galapagos Islands. It hes in latitude 5° 25' N., long. 87^ 0' W.
This island is of an oblong shape, being twelve miles in length, from
north-east to south-west, and about four in breadth. Its western side
is veiy much elevated, presenting the appearance of a round hill, which
can be seen at the distance of more than thirty miles. Vancouver says
it has been seen from the south at the distance of forty-six mUes. On
the eastern side the surface is broken, and slopes rather abruptly to-
■\vards the sea ; presentmg, in some places, bold and perpendicular
cliffs.

This island, and the islets which surround it, are well covered with
trees, mostly cocoanuts, yielding their fruit in luxuriant abundance.
The climate is temperate and salubrious, and from the great variety
of vegetables that grow in abundance close to. the verge of high-water
mark, in the bays, it is evident that neither violent storms nor heavy
seas are frequent. There are two bays, or places fit for anchorage ;
the one near to the north-east end of the island, called Chatham Bay ;
the other, to which we gave the name of Byers's Bay, is three miles
farther to the westward.

Chatham Bay is well sheltered by a small islet that lies off its north-
west point. The width of this bay, from point to point of the two
islets that form each of its extremities, is about one mile, bearmg nearly
south-east and north-west. From this Une to the head or bottom of
the bay the distance is about the same. The soundings in this bay
are from fifty to twelve fathoms ; and vessels may ride very snugly
Avithin less than half a mile of the beach, in twenty fathoms of water.
In a less depth, however, the bottom wifl be found rocky.

The western bay is somewhat more exposed, its soundings are not
so regidar, nor the gTOund so good for anchorage, though tlie depth
of water varies from fifty to seven fathoms. The shore of this bay is
not steep, like that of Chatham, but consists of a beautiful valley and
sandy beach, where cocoanut-trees grow in great profusion, and where
there is a rivulet of pure water eighteen or twenty feet in breadth,
which is supplied from a natural basin about one mile from the shore.

193 ^ VOLCANIC ERUPTION. [il25.

This bay is small, but veiy convenient for vessels I9 recruit in ; and^
as safe as any that is not^entirely sheltered.

Vessels in want of refreshments can here supply tliemselves with
pork in abundance, for the trouble of shooting the .wild hogs, which
have multiplied greatly since the breed was first left here by Captain
Colnett. The m aters in the bay^ and round the shores are teeming
with fish of various kinds. Eels are also abundant and large ; turtles
are numerous, but appear shy of coming to land, which is frequented
by astonishing numbers of white and brown rats, and land-crabs of a
prodigious size. Sharks are said to assemble round this island in large
shoals, to feast upon the more diminutive finny tribes that abound
here. •

The best course for those who wish to anchor in tlie western bay
is to go round the south-western point of the island, hugging that point
close on board ; and when in the bay, to moor head and stern. The
tide rises on the shores of this island twice in twenty-four hours, with-
out any apparent current ; the night tides are estimated at ten feet,
those of the day not quite so much. It is high-v/ater two hours and
ten minutes after the moon passes the meridian.

Fclruary 6th. — Having examined this island to our satisfaction, and
taken on board a plentiful supply of cocoanuts, we sailed for the Galla-
pagos Islands on Sunday, the sixth of February, with the wind from
east-south-east, attended with light rain. On the following day we
took the wind from north-north-east, with much rain ; this was suc-
ceeded bv variable winds until we arrived in latitude 2° 0' N., long.
89^ 0' W., when we took the wind from south-east, with fair weather.

Fthruary \Qth. — On Thursday, the tenth, at six, A. M., we arrived
at the Gallapagos Islands, in Banks's Bay, and anchored in Albemarle
Basin, in four fathoms of water, sandy bottom. At eight, A. M., the
boats were sent in search of fur-seals ; but soon discovered that we
had reaped the harvest in the previous voyage ; for there were very
few fur-seals to be seen around the islands. In a few davs we com-
menced gathering terrapins, or elephant tortoises.

Fehruary I4th. — On Monday, the fourteenth, at two o'clock, A. M-,
while the sable mantle of night was yet spread over the mighty Pacific,
shrouding the neighbouring islands from our view, and while the still-
ness of death reigned everywhere around us, our ears were suddenly
assailed by a somid that could only be equalled by ten thousand thun-
ders bursting upon the air at once ; while, at the same instant, the
whole hemisphere was lighted up with a horrid glare that might have
appalled the stoutest heart! I soon ascertained that one of the volca-
noes of Narborough Island, Vhich had quietly slept for the last ten
years, had suddenly broken forth with accumulated vengeance.

The sublimity, the majesty, the terrific grandeur of this scene baffle
description, and set the powers of language at defiance. Had the fires
of Milton's hell burst its vault of adamant, and threatened the heavens
with conflagration, his description of the incident would have been ap-
propriate to the present subject. No words that I can command wDl
give the reader even a faint idea of the awful splendour of the grea!:
realhy.

Feb.f VOLCANIC ERt'PTIOX. 193

« Had it been " the crack of doom" that aroused them, my men could
not have been sooner on deck, where they stood gazing like " sheeted
spectres," speechless and bewildered with astonishment and dismay.
The heavens appeared to be in one blaze of fire, intermingled with
millions of falling stars and meteors ; while the flames shot upward
from the peak of Narborough to the height of at least two thousand
feet in the air. All hands soon became sensible of the cause of the
startUng phenomenon, and on recovering from their first panic could
contemplate its progress with some degree of composure.

But the most splendid and interesting scene of this spectacle was
yet to be exhibited. At about half-past four o'clock, A. M., the boil-
ing contents of the tremendous caldron had swollen to the brim, and
poured over the edge of the crater in a cataract of liquid fire. A river
of melted lava was now seen rushing down the side of the mountain,
pursuing a serpentine course to the sea, a distance of about three miles
from the blazing orifice of the volcano. This dazzling stream de-
scended in a gully, one-fourth of a mile in width, presenting the
appearance of a tremendous torrent of melted iron running from the
furnace. Although tlie mountain was steep, and the gully capacious,
the flaming river could not descend with sufficient rapidity to prevent
its overflowing its banks in certain places, and forming new rivers, which
branched out in almost every direction, each rushing downward as if
eager to cool its temperament in the deep caverns of the neighbouring
ocean. The demon of fire seemed rushing to the embraces of Nep-
tune ; and dreadful indeed was the uproar occasioned by their meet-
ing. The ocean boiled, and roared, and bellowed, as if a civil war
had broken out in the Tartarean gulf.

At three, A. M., I ascertained the temperature of the water, by
Fahrenheit's thermometer, to be 61°, while that of the air was 71°. At
eleven, A. M., the air was 113°, and the water 100°, the eruption still
continuing w^ith unabated fury. The Tartar's anchorage was about
ten miles to the northward of the mountain, and the heat was so great
that the melted pitch was running from the vessel's seams, and the tar
dropping from the rigging.

In order to give the reader a correct idea of our situation, it will be
necessary to remind him of the relative position of these two islands.
Albemarle Island is the most extensive of the whole Gallapagos group,
being about ninety miles in length from north to south, narrow and
nearly straight on its eastern shore ; but on the western side it hollows
in from Christopher's Point on the south, to Cape Berkley on the
north ; and within this space lies the island of Narborough, its eastern
point approaching nearest to Albemarle. The Tartar lay in a cove of
Banks's Bay, on the western shore of Albemarle, directly opposite the
north-east point of Narborough ; and this cove could be approached
from the north-west through Banks's Bay, or from the south-west
through Elizabeth Bay.

Our situation was every hour becoming more critical and alarming.
Not a breath of air was stirring to fill a sail, had we attempted to
escape ; so that we were compelled to remain idle and unwilling spec-
tators of a pyrotechnic exhibition which evinced no indications of even

194 VOLCANIC ERUPTION. [1825.

a temporary' suspension. All that day the fires continued to rage with
unabating activity, while the mountain still continued to belch forth its
melted entrails in an unceasing cataract.

The mercury continued to rise until four, P. M., when the tempera-
ture of the air had increased to 123^, and that of the water to 105°. Our
respiration now became difficult, and several of the crew complained
of extreme faintness. It was evident that something must be done,
and that promptly. " for a cap-full of wind !" was the prayer of
each. The breath of a light zephyr from the continent, scarcely per-
ceptible to the cheek, was at length announced as the welcome signal
for the word, " All hands, unmoor !" This was a little before eight,
P. INI. The anchor was soon apeak, and every inch of canvass ex-
tended along the spars, where it hung in useless drapery.

All was again suspense and anxious expectation. Again the zephyr
breathed, and hope revived. At length it was announced from aloft
that the lighter canvass began to feel the air ; and in a few minutes
more the topsails began gradually to fill, when the anchor was brought
to the bow, and the Tartar began to move. At eight o'clock we Vv'ere
wafted along by a fine little easterly breeze, for which we felt grateful
to Heaven.

Our course lay southward, through the little strait or sound that
separated the burning mountain from Albemarle Island ; my object
being to get to windward of Narborough as soon as possible. It is
true that the north-west passage from Banks's Bay, by Cape Berkley,
^vould have been a shorter route into the main ocean ; but not the
safest, under existing circumstances. I therefore chose to nm south,
to Elizabeth Bay, though in doing so we had to pass within about four
miles of those rivers ol" flaming lava, which were pouring into the wa-
ters of the bay. Had I adopted the other course, and passed to the
leeward of Narborough, we might have got clear of the island, but it
would have been impossible to prevent the sails and rigging taking-
fire ; as the whole atmosphere on the lee side of the bay appeared to
he one mass of flame. The deafening sounds accompanying the
eruption still continued ; indeed the terrific grandeur of the scene
^vould have been incomplete without it.

Hea%on continued to favour us with a fine breeze, and the Tartar
slid along through the almost boiling ocean at the rate of about seven
miles an hour. On passing the currents of melted lava, I became ap-
prehensive that I should lose some of my men, as the influence of the
heat was so great that several of them were incapable of standing.
At that time the mercury in the thermometer was at 147° ; but on im-
mersing it into the water, h instantly rose to 150^. Had the wind
deserted us here, the consequences must have been horrible. But the
mercy of Providence was still extended towards us — the refreshing-
breeze still urged us forward towards a more temperate atmosphere ;
so that at eleven P. M. we were safely anchored at the south extremity
of the bay, while the flaming Narborough lay fifteen miles to the lee-
ward.

Here the temperature of the air was 110^, and that of the water
102° ; but at eight o'clock the next morning, the 16th, there being no

March.] FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR ISLANDS. 195

abatement in the rage of the vomiting volcano, the heat had increased
to such an alarming degree that we found it necessary again to get
under way, and abandon the bay entirely. At twelve meridian we
passed the south point of Albemarle Bay, called Christopher's Point,
at which time I found the mercury at 122^ in the air, and at 98° in
J he water. AV^e now steered for Charles's Island, which lies about
forty miles south-east of Albemarle, and came to anchor in its north-
v.'est harbour at eleven, P. M. Fiflv miles and more to the leeward,
in the north-west, the crater of Narborough appeared like a colossal
beacon-light, shooting its vengeful flames high into the gloomy atmo-
sphere, with a rumbling noise like distant thunder.

February 17 th. — Having taken on board two hundred and ninety-
four terrapins, that would average about twenty-five pounds each, we
got under way on Friday, the 17th, at two o'clock, P. M., and com-
jneiiccd a cruise in search of the island of Gallego, said to lie in lat.
1^ 42' N.J lOi^ 5 AV. After cutting the ground up in the above-
mentioned parallel, and from 100^ to 110^ west, I was convinced that
r.o such island existed within many leagues of the situation which had
been assigned to it. AVe therefore bore up, and steered for two clus-
ters of islands, which were said to lie in lat. 16^ and 17° N., and in
lonu-. 133° and 136° W., with a fine breeze from east-somh-east, and
iair weather. Before we bore up, however, we tried the current, and
found it settinjr about west-north-west, at the rate of two and a half
miles an hour. The sea was here literally covered with pumice-stone,
some pieces of Avhieh were quite large, supposed to have been ejected
from the volcano of Narborough.

March 8th. — We continued standing to the north-west, with steady
winds from east to east-south-east, and fair weather (experiencing a
s iron or westerly current, which set from one and a half to three knots
per hour), until Tuesday, the 8th of jNIarch, when we found ourselves,
by astronomical observations, in the location assigned to the first-men-
tioned island, said to lie in lat. 16° N., long. 133° W. ; but discovered
no appearance of land. AA'^e then shaped our course for that which
was said to be situated in lat. 17° N., long. 136° W., but saw no indica-
tions- of land whatever. We then took different angles between the
two locations, stretching from one parallel to the other, until we were
in long. 138° W., with no better success.

March lAth, — On ISIonday, the 14th of 3Iarch, we hauled in to the
north, for the coast of California, well satisfied that any farther search
for the islands in question would be as idle a waste of time as that
which v/e had spent in the previous voyage in looking for the Auroras,
I could not refrain, however, from recording my astonishment and re-
gret that ship-masters should ignorantly or wantonly make and publish
reports of discoveries which have no existence in reality.

We continued standing to the north, with a fine breeze from east to
east-south-east, and fair weather, until Saturday, the 19th; when, ia
lat. 21° 1' N., long. 130° 27' W., the wind suddenly shifted, in a
sqtiall, from east to north-west. AVe then stood to the north-east, and
on Sunday, the 27th, we arrived at the island of Guadaloupe, in lat.
28° 56' N., long. 117° 41' AV.

1^6 COAST OF CALirORMA. [1825

March 27th. — This islarul, whicli is situated about one liundred and
eighty miles from the sliore, on tlie western eoast of North America^
in the same latitude as New-Orleans, is about twenty miles in circum-
ference, and uninliabited. From unerring indications, tliere is no doubt
that it has once been volcanic ; it is veiy barren on its south end, but
in the northern part there are several fertile valleys, and the mountains
contain vegetation. Wood and water may be liad here from a small
cove on tlie norlh-east side of the island, and goat's llcsh may be ob-
tained for the trouble of shoot inji the animal.

The island is high, \\ ith bhilT shores on the north and west sides, and
may be seen from the mast-head, in clear weather, at the distance of
fifteen leagues. The shores are free from dangers one-fourth of a
mile from the island. The only anchorage is on the south-east side,
in a small cove, formed by a few rocky islets that lie ofl^ in that direc-
tion. Here vessels may anchor in seven fathoms of water, sheltered
from all winds, excepting from the south-east to east-north-east, which
seldom blow here. We lay here three days, during which time we
took a number of iur-seals.

April 2d. — On Friday, the 1st of April, we got under way, and
steered for Cerros Island, with the wind from north-north-west ; and
on the following day, at six o'clock, A. M., wc were close in with its
eastern side. At seven the boats Mere sent round the island, and re-
turned without finding either seals or sea-elephants.

This island, as it is called, is a mere pile of rocks, of volcani(^
origin — high and barren. It is about eight miles in circumference, and
only four miles from the western shore of the peninsula of Old Cali-
fornia, a little north of Ilermoso Point. The passage between this
point and the island is clear of dangers, giving the former a berth
of half a mile, to avoid some sunken rocks that lie about that distance
off-shore, in a north-north- west direction.

The anchorage on the east side of the island is in lat. 27° 52' N.,
long. 114° 37" W., and sheltered from the i)rcvailing winds, which
generally blow direct along shore. From the 1st of March to the 1st
of November the winds blow from the north-west, attended with beau-
tiful weather; and during this season there is seldom any rain. But
from November to March the winds frequently blow with violence
from the south-east and south-south-west, attended with torrents of
rain, which renders the navigation of this coast very unpleasant during
the winter season. In the summer months the wind sometimes hauls
round to the south-east ; but it is always very light at that season of
ihe year.

There are many fine fish to be caught around this island, and it was
formerly a great resort for sea-elephants and fur-seals ; but it now ap-
pears to be entirely abandoned by these animals. A few aquatic birds
still continue to visit here in the laying and incubation season ; but we
saw no land-birds. There is a small rocky island lying ofl" the north-
west side of Cerros, about two miles' distance ; but there is no danger
between the two islands.

April 6th. — On Monday, the 4ih, we took a slant of wind from tlie
north-east, off the land, and steered for St. Francis's Bay, wliere we

April] COAST OF CALIFORNIA. I97

arrived on Wednesday, t!ie 6tli, and anchored in three fiithoms of
water, with the soinli point of the bay bearing south-south-east, which
completely sheltered us from all winds. About eight mdes from the
anchorage, in the direction of north-north-east, is the town and mission
of Rosario, to whicii place tliere is a good road from the head of this
bay.

For the first time during our present voyage, we found 0)irselves
moored in a North American port, within four hundred leagues of the
south-west boundary of die United States, and yet more than thirteen
thousand mUes distant from it by water ! Near to our native laud,
and yet far from it ! A narrow peninsula only divided us from the
Gulf of California, once celebrated for its pearl-fisheries. Although
this gulf is a great estuary, or arm of the sea, eight hundred miles iu
lengtli, and one liundred and twenty in breadth at its mouth, running
that whole distance parallel with the, coast on the Pacific, and some-
times not more than thirty miles from it — still, in geographical strict-
ness, the Gulf of California is only the continuation of the river Colo-
rado, which rises in the same mountains that give source to the Rio
del Norte, M'hich empties into the Gulf of Mexico ; to the Arkansas,
which pours its waters into the Mississippi; and to the Columbia,
which empties into the Pacific Ocean, from the Oregon territory. The
sources of these three rivers are near each other, which fact will, at
some future period, prove of immense importance to the United States.
The river La Platte also rises in the same region ; which, after run-
ning a course nearly due east, falls into the Missouri, about six hun-
dred miles by water, above the junction of the Missouri and the Mis-
sissippi, which is eighteen miles above St. Louis, on the right bank of
the Mississippi, the principal depot for the immense regions drained by
those numerous riv'ers, the congregated waters of which are here col-
lected into one great stream.

I think I hazard little in asserting, that long before another century
rolls round, the principal avenue of trade between the United States and
the different seaports on the Pacific Ocean will be the river Colorado,
as connected with the Gulf of California. The China and India trade
will, of course, ultimately flow through the same channel ; which will
render this route to the Pacific far more eligible than that of the river
Columbia can ever become. 'I'liis prediction might be warranted on
the diflercnce of latitude alone; the Culf of California entering the
Pacific in hit. 23'^ N., while the mouth of Columbia River is a little
farther north than the parallel of St. John's, New-Brunswick, on the
Atlantic coast. The mouth of the Ciulf of California is nearly on the
parallel of Havana, in the island of (-)uba.

In the language of the late scientific William Darby, " it is impos-
sible to view a map of North America, and carefully examine the course
of its great rivers, without appreciating the prodigious commercial and
political advantages of the Colorado route. By it the Pacific Ocean
is entered twenty-three degrees of latitude farther south than by the
river Columbia \ and by the former, also, the ship-channel is much
deeper into the body of the continent than by tlie latter. An approxi-
mation towards the tropical regions ol" Polynesia, India, and China

198 OLD CALIFORMA. [1825.

decides the preference in favour of the southern route. In this great
line of civilized intercourse, St. Louis, in the United States, will, we
may suppose, assume the rank of an immense entrepot, while another
must arise on the side of the Paeilic."

The name of (California has been given to so mucli of the western
coast of North America as lies between lat. 22° 52' to 42*^ N., or
through nearly twenty degrees of latitude, although no one can tell
from what source the word has been derived ; its origin and etymology
having never been accurately ascertained. This country received tlie^
appellation of California when lirst vissited by Hernando de Grixalvoi.*
who was acting under the direction of Hernan Cortes, in 1534, and
has retained it ever since. In all the various dialects of the natives,
no trace of such a name has ever been discovered ; and though some
writers have had recourse to conjecture, and suppose that the term
California is compounded of caUda and/or;?<7;r, a hot furnace, and was
derived from the sultriness of its climate, yet it does not appear that
any of the Spanish captains ever took this method of giving names to
their conquests. Father Venegas is rather inclined to think that it
owed its origin to some accident ; possibly to some words spoken by
the natives, and misunderstood by the Spaniards, as happened, accord-
ing to a very learned American, in the naming of Peru.

Be this as it may, the natives of the country distinguish it by
110 general denomination ; although each tribe has a name and lan-
guage peculiar to itself. The Californians of tlie peninsula (which
is called Old California) are divided into three distinct nations, whose
languages are entirely difierent from each other. The Pericues occupy
the south end of the peninsula ; the JMenquis inhabit the centre ; and
the Cochimies are on the north part, where it joins to the main.
Each of these nations is subdivided into several tribes or branches,
distinguished by considerable variations in their dialect. In New
California, which is north of the peninsula, the distinctions are still
more numerous ; and it has been asserted by one of the Catholic mis-
sionaries, who laboured hard and zealously in converting these natives
to the Christian religion, that on an extent of one hinidred and eighty
leagues, from San Diego to the Bay of St. Francisco, no fewer than
seventeen languages are spoken !

The condition, character, manners, habits, and customs of the native
Californians have been all much improved since a knowledge of Chris-
tianity was introduced among them by the Spanish Jesuits, and espe-
cially since the whole country has been annexed to the ^Mexican nation.
The arts of civilization have been introduced among them with the
most salutary effects. Their manners have become softened, many
of their superstitious ceremonies have been abolished, and agriculture
has rapidly increased. White settlements are now springing up in
both Californias, and the day is not far distant when this long-neglected
and much-depreciated region of America will become the envy of its
neighbours. As soon as its resources and advantages become better
known, and more justly estimated, its increase and prosperity may
challenge a competitor in the'same parallel of latitude on the western
continent. But this anticipated state of renovation and prosperity

April.] OLD CALIFORNIA. 199^

must be brought about by foreigners : it will never be effected by the
natives.

By this time the most inexperienced reader must be aware that Old
California is a long narrow peninsula, extending nearly north-west an<^
south-east tlirough about eleven degrees of latitude, and perhaps eight of-
longitude, being united to the continent at its north-west extremity by a
neck of land one hundred and sixty miles in width, reaching from the-
mouth of the Colorado river to a bav called San Diego. A chain of
mountains ranges through the whole length of this extensive peninsula,
the most elevated peak of which rises to nearly live thousand feet
above the level of the sea. The width of this peninsula varies from
thirty to one hundred and twenty miles. It is said to comprise fifty-six
thousand square miles ; viz. eight hundred in length by an average of
seventy in breadth. The population, however, is only estimated at a
little over ten thousand. Wherever fresh water is found the soil is
excellent ; and vines grow spontaneously in the mountains. It is said
that the Jesuits, when they resided here, made abundance of wine,
which in taste was much like Madeira. Among the mountains are
interspersed several fertile valleys of good soil ; and some of the plains,
particularly in the vicinity of the coast, are well adapted both for pas-
turage and tillage, and are now in a fair way to become greatly im-
proved by cultivation.

The Bay of St. Francis, in which we now lay at anchor, is in the
northern division of the peninsula, being in latitude 30° 20' N. The
surrounding country abounds with excellent grazing-meadows, which
are thickly stocked with wild cattle, deer, gray foxes, &;c. Here also
are found many different kinds of birds, but very few that are remark-
able for beauty of plumage or sweetness of song. In this bay vessels
may procure cattle, sheep, deer, hogs, potatoes, and vegetables of va-
rious kinds, at the most moderate prices. But it is difficult to obtain
fresh water or wood at this place. The banks in this bay are fre-
quently visited by sea-leopards, but they are very wild ; the sea-otter
likewise is sometimes taken by the natives, but they have become quite
scarce, and I believe the race is nearly extirpated.

There are many kinds of scale-fish at the head of this bay, which
may be caught with a small seine in great abundance ; among them
are very large mullets, which average three pounds apiece. The
neighbouring country abounds with rattlesnakes of an enormous size.
During an excursion of five miles into the interior I have seen more
than two hundred of diese reptiles, and killed some that were six feet
in length and twelve inches in circumference.

Vessels intending to enter this port must steer for the south-west
point of the bay, which opens to the south. This point is in latitude
30° 20' N., long. 115° 14' W. ; and when you are within two miles of
its southern extremity, steer nortii-north-east until the point bears west-
north-west, when you may haul north-north-west ; or, if the wind is out
of the bay, you may make short tacks, taking care not to stretch under
the east shore in less than five fathoms of water, from which it shallows
very suddenly. In approaching the west shore, you may stand within
a cable's length of the beach, after the point bears west, and choose

200 NEW CALIFORNIA. [1825.

your anchorage in from seven to three fathoms, muddy bottom. Tliere
is a sand and rocky bank running off the soutli-west point, in a south-
south-west direction, with four feet of water on it at low ebb. The
tide rises here about nine feet on the neap, and eleven feet on the
spring tides.

April Sth. — We remained in this bay until Friday, tlie 8th, when we
got under way at four, A. M., and steered for port St. Diego, lor the
purpose of building a whale-boat. At ten, A. M., we landed on Cenizas
Island, in search of fur-seals. Here we found about eight hundred sea-
elephants on a beach at the east side of the island ; and on the north
and west sides there were about four hundred sea-leopards. The ele-
phants were very tame, but the leopards were extremely wild, and
difficult to approach.

Cenizas Island is about five miles in circumference ; lies eighteen
miles from the south-west point of St. Francisco, on a north-north-west
course, and is three miles west from the mainland. It is of volcanic
origin, and is entirely barren : the rocks have been melted, into a com-
plete lava, and the lowland is covered with pumice-stone. There is
a reef lying off the north-east end of the island, about two miles, and
another off the north-west part, at nearly the same distance. The
coast from this to Point or Morro Hermoso, a distance of fifty
leagues south-east, is bold, and clear of dangers two miles from the
shore. The soundings are regular, gradually shallowing as you ap-
proach the land.

We now continued plying to the northward, with the wind, between
the hours of ten, A.M., and seven, P. M., from norlh-nordi-west to west-
nortU-west ; and between the hours of nine in the evening and six or
seven the next morning, the wind blew from north-north-west to north-
nortli east. By taking advantage of the land and sea-breezes a ship
will here work to windward very rapidly.

April llth. — We arrived at the port of St. Diego on Monday, the
1 1th of April, and anchored in four fathoms of water, with the fort on
the west side of the bay bearing south-west, distance one mile. In
this situation we were completely landlocked, in as fine a bay for ves-
sels under three hundred tons as was ever formed by Nature in her most
friendly mood to mariners.

The port of San Diego is in latitude 32^ .39' N., long. 116° 51' W. :
and a line drawn from this port, due east, to the mouth of the Colorado
river, would divide the peninsula from New California. This commo-
dious and spacious harbour was first discovered by Sebastian Viscaino,
in the year 1603, who also discovered another three hundred miles
farther north, which he named Monterey, and which subsequently be-
came the principal settlement of the Spaniards in this country. The
first mission founded m New California was at this port in 1769.

Although Viscaino described New Cahfornia in the most favourable
colours, as to fertility of soil and salubrity of climate, the Spaniards
still continued to neglect it, — clinging round the rude, steril peninsula
for the sake of the pearls, and the mines which had been discovered
on the mainland across the gulf. For nearly a century and a half
they w'ere thus wasting tlieir strength and treasure in attempting to

April] TOWN OF 8 AN DIEGO. 201

convert and civilize a barren and ungrateful country, while New Cali-
fornia, a fine populous region, but a few leagues farther nortli, was
suffered to remain unexplored, and almost unvisited. This beautiful
territory, which would have most amply repaid all their exertions if
properly colonized, was not occupied by the Spaniards until one hun-
dred and sixty-seven years after its discovery.

The town of San Diego is four miles from the landing at the fort, in
a north-cast direction. lis form is nearlv circular, and it is surrounded
by a wall about twenty feet in height, which forms the back sides of
the houses, the latter being erected against it, and fronting inwardl}'.
There are about two hundred and fifty houses erected in this manner,
from one to two stories high, built of freestone, and neatly finished.
There is also a large church, one nunnery, and a very neat little court-
house. This town contains about 1500 inhabitants, principally natives
of the coast, and they appear to be a very agreeable, friendly kind
of people, but not quite so cleanly and industrious as could be wished.
Their principal employment is attending herds of cattle, and cultivating
some small patches of earth, wliich produce wheat, vegetables, Szc.
They are much addicted to such amusements as are common to all the
Spanish settlements on the western coast of America, from California
to Chiloe, viz. horse-racino-. cock-fighting, and bull-baiting, which are
enjoyed with equal zest by both sexes. In equestrian exercises they
are but little inferior to the Chilotes ; and will break a wild horse, so
that he will become perfectly tractable, by only once riding him : they
are also ver}^ expert in the use of the lasso, with which they catch the
wild cattle ; and their hunting excursions in the mountains are replete
with interest aad excitement to the lovers of field-sports.

The females have generally fine forms, and expressive countenances.
Their eyes are dark and sparkling, and they dress their long black
hair in a verv tasteiul and becominsf manner, with folds and braids.
Their hands and feet are remarkably small, and they generally display
an extremely delicate ankle. They also delight in equestrian exer-
cises, and usually honour each side of the horse with a beautiful little
foot and ankle. Their evenings are commonly passed in small cote-
ries, or parties of both sexes, where they amuse themselves and each
other with singing, playing the guitar, dancing, &:c. Their favourite
dance is the Spanish fandango.

April 22d. — On the day after our arrival in the port of San Diego,
we landed tlie materials, forge, Slc, and commenced the building of a
new whale-boat, of- which we stood very much in need. This task
employed our carpenter and men eleven days, M'hich gave myself and
officers an ample opportunity of examining tlic town, and forming ac-
quaintances among the inhabitants, who treated us with the greatest
hospitality and most polite attention. We regularly attended their
favourite amusements and evening parties, several of which were pro-
jected expressly on our account, llorses were always at our service,
which aft'orded us several deliglitful rural excursions, one of which will
furnish an incident for tiie next ciiapter.

The passage into this beautiful l)ay is plain, easy, and safe. There
is a flat on the east sliorc ofilic eutrance, wliich runs oft' to the west-

202 A HUNTING EXCURSION. [1825,

ward about one mile, covered at low water to the depth of about three
feet. There is also a small saiul-bank running off I'rom the south-
west point, or Point Lonia, to tlie distance of about one hundred
fathoms, on which the water is shoal. After passing this point, which
f is liigh and bluff, you steer for the flag-staff on the fort, which will
bear norih'-by-w'est ; in which course you will have three fathoms of
water, sandy bottom, when within one hundred fathoms of the point
on which tiie fort stands. 'I'his point may be doubled at that distance,
and after passhig it you may haul in to the westward, and choose
your anchorage in from Jive to three fathoms, clay bottom. Point
Loma is in lat. 32° 36' N., loi g. 116° 48' W. The centre of the
state of Georgia lies in the same parallel, and the climates are very
similar.

CHAPTER VI.

A hunting Excursion — The Party attacked by a hostile Tribe of Indians — A des-
perate Battle — Victory doubtful — The Savages defeated — A safe Return to St.
Diego — Sail to the North — Arrive at Monterey — Mission of San Carlos and
San Antonio — Mutiny on board the Asia sixty-four — Farallone Islands — Port St.
Francisco — Description of the Country and Inhabitants — Mission of St. Clara
— Cape Blanco in the Oregon Territory — Change our Course to the South —
Island of Socorro — Steer for the West — Sandwich Islands.

O.v Monda5% the 18th of April, agreeably to previous arrangements,
I joined a hunting party, consisting of seven well mounted horsemen,
armed with long muskets, broadswords, and lassos. I was also
armed in the same manner, with the exception of the lasso, which
would have been of little use in my unpractised hand. The party
complimented me with a well accoutred horse, as fine high-spirited aii
animal as ever I had under me ; and at three o'clock m the morning
we were all mounted, Avith a plentiful supply of provisions and ammu-
nition for the projected cruise, light hearts, and a keen relish for the
anticipated sport.

On leaving the town of San Diego, we took a course nearly due
east ; and long before sunrise had penetrated many miles into the
country. At half-past live o'clock, we first saw the golden luminaiy
peering through a volume of blue mist that was slowly ascending from
the distant range of mountains. This was soon dissipated by the
increasing warmth of the sun, until at length that purity of atmosphere
and serenity of sky mentioned by Humboldt as peculiar to Cali-
fornia, were witnessed and enjoyed by our party. At seven we halted
near a stream of clear running water, and made a hearty breakfast of
such materials as we had brought with us for the purpose ; and at nine
we estimated our distance from the coast to be about forty miles.

The face of the country now began to assume a more rugged ap-
pearance, and from several eminences which we ascended we caught
glimpses of the broad Pacific in the distant western horizon. Hitherto

April.] ATTACKED BY L\DIANS. 203

we had seen no game worthy the expense of ammunition, and our
intended hunting ground was yet many miles distant. One of my
companions had succeeded in taking a wild cat with his lasso, and
after securing the skin left the carcass for the bears to dine on, with
which he said the neighbouring woods abounded.

By the hour of noon, we had shot and taken a variety of game,
among which were hares, rabbits, and partridges ; and as our horses
now required rest and refreshment as well as their riders, we gave
them an hour to graze in a beautiful litde valley which the opening
spring had just covered wiiii a velvet carpet of green. On the side
of a mountain at a short distance we saw several flocks of deer brows-
ing, and among them some stags of an immense size. But they took
to liighi before we could approach within musket-shot, and disappeared
m the forest.

Just as we had finished our midday repast, and were collecting our
liorses together, a rustling in a neighbouring thicket arrested my at-
tention, and in the next instant a stag darted forth, and rushed across
tlie valley directly towards our party. Fright must have deprived
him of his usual quick-sightedness, for it was evident he did not per-
ceive the new danger into which he was plunging headlong. One of
my Californian friends threw his lasso just as I touched the trig-
ger of my musket. The animal leaped high in the air, and fell dead
on the spot. The ball had entered his forehead, and his huge branch-
ing antlers were completely entangled in the lasso, at the same moment.

The hero of the lasso sprang from his horse, and while disentan-
gling his successful instnnnent, he good-humouredly observed that we
must decide our right to the noble animal by a game at billiards. Just
as I was signifying my assent to the proposition, a whizzing sound
passed my ear, and the Californian exclaimed that he was woimded.
An Indian arrow from the thicket had pierced his arm.

" An Apacherian ! an Apacherian !" exclaimed every voice at once,
as each man sprang upon his steed, and the whole party rushed
into the thicket in search of the ambushed enemy. Nothing, however,
was to be seen, until we had gained the summit of a little eminence
on the south, when we discovered three Indians on horseback, riding
in a south-eastern direction in a very deliberate manner. My wounded
friend clapped spurs to his horse, and fired at the same time without
success. We all joined in the pursuit, determined to chastise the as-
sailants at all hazards. On seeing our purpose, they gave a horrid
yell, and put their horses at full speed. This of course excited greater
ardour in the pursuit, and for the first time that day did my fiery
charger feel the spur. The hint was sufiicient — he outflew the wind,
and I should have soon overtaken the fugitives, but was aware of the
imprudence of doing so. I therefore so far checked my steed as to
keep only about fifty yards in tront of our party.

The south extremity of a blufi' ridge, terminating in a rocky preci-
pice, was soon to conceal the retreating savages from our view ;
and before passing it they had the audacity to wheel, and discharge-
their arrows in our faces. The next moment they were invisible.
One of their arrows only took effect, piercing my bridle-arm just above

204 A DESPERATE BATTLE. [1825.

the elbow. It was a mere scratch, but it had considerable effect in
whetting my appetite lor revenge. We doubled the precipice just men-
tioned, and instead of three, more than lifiy mounted savages were par-
aded before us, each with his arrow notched and presented. This was
unexpected, and for a moment my party gazed at each other in speech-
less dismay.

' My wounded companion, who had reloaded his musket during the
pursuit, was the lirst to break silence, by exclaiming, " Un trampa ! un
emboscado ! senor capitan !''

I asked him if he could point out the chief of this wandering horde
of half-naked freebooters. He directed my attention to one of supe-
rior stature and muscle, with something hitended for an ornament hang-
ing on his breast. As this individual appeared to be the leader of the
party, I kei)t my eye on him. He took care, however, not to keep
us long in suspense, but addressed me in a commanding tone, accom-
panied by gestures that I could not misunderstand.

" I can understand his jargon," said the wounded Californian, who
kept close to my side. " He addresses you as our chief, and demands
a surrender of our weapons."

" We will perish lirst !" I replied. " But let us be politic. Demand
honourable terms of capitulation, and gain us a moment's time for
reflection."

^ly companion did as I desired, in the savage's own dialect ; and
tlie answer was unconditional submission, or instant death. If we
complied our lives should be spared. Should we resist, no quarter
would be given. Having heard much of the treachery of this tribe, I
resolved to place no confidence in the promises of their chief; but
told my companions that we might belter perish like men, with arms
ill our hands, than fall like cowards, by our own weapons, as we
sliould be certain to do if we gave them up ; that oin* first jnovement
must be a desperate one ; and that each man must bear in mind that
he was contending for life and liberty. I then desired our interpreter
to amuse the Indians by pretending to comply with their demand,
while the party dismounted, to put the savages off their guard, and
induce them to dismount also ; at the same time directing each of my
companions to single out his man, and to fire the moment he heard mj'
musket ; then to spring again into their saddles, and attack the enemy
sword in hand, until thCy were willing to let us retreat without
molestation.

IMy plan was unanimously approved, and instantly adopted. As
soon as my party left their saddles, the Indians dismounted to a man,
and stood waiting tiie orders of their chief, the parties being within
pistol-shot of each other. I was the last to make a motion of dis-
mounting, which I did in such an awkward and clumsy manner as
drew a laugh of derision from the savages, and brought my eye to
range along the barrel of my musket, whicli lay along the horse's neck,
pointing to the ornament on the bosom of the colossal chief in front
of me.

The report of seven muskets besides my own brought every man

April.] THE INDIANS DEFEATED. 205

again to the saddle, and we charged the astonished foe with such
resistless fury as bore down all before us. Seven Indians, besides the
chief, fell by our muskets ; and the new leader who now assumed
the command seemed determined to single me out as tlie mark
of his vengeance. He retreated a little space, then wheeling his
horse, rode towards me at full speed, brandishing in his right hand a
long pointed javelin of hard wood, whicli he aimed at my breast, as
our horses rushed past each other, I fortunately parried the blow, and
wheeling on his rear complimented him with a cut across the right
shoulder that nearly penetrated to the pap. He fell to the gi'ound,
and was able to rise no more.

At this moment I received an arrow in my riglit thigh, wliile three
others were planted in the left side of my gallant steed, one of whicli
liad reached his heart, and he fell to the ground, with one of my legs
crushed beneath him, in such a manner that it was some time before I
could extricate myself, which I at length effected, rising under a
shower of arrows. I now attempted to take the horse of the leader
whom I had just put hors du cojnbat, and who was still holding the bridle
in his left hand. Just as I was mountino- this animal, live of the most
ferocious of the enemy started for me at full speed, and would doubt-
less have sent me after their two leaders, had not three of my friends
perceived my danger, and darted to my rescue. They reached me
just m time to cut down three of the assailants, while I had as much
business as I could attend to in amusing the other two, one of whom
fell under his horse, and the other was glad to make his escape to the
forest.

Several of mv brave comrades had bv this time received a number
of severe wounds from the flint-headed arrows of the enemy, and the
horse of my friend and interpreter was killed under him by a wooden
lance or spear like that which had threatened my own life. He fortu-
nately succeeded, however, m catching a fallen Indian's horse, which
he instantly mounted, and returned to the charge. By this time the
enemv had drawn off" w^ithin short arroM' distance, and commenced firing
a shower of those sharp-pointed missiles among us. From the first
volley one of our party received a wound in the thigh ; anothei* arrow
severely tickled my left leg, while a third penetrated the collar of my
coat. We soon became convinced that our only safety depended upon
close quarters ; we therefore made another desperate charge on the
bloodthirsty v.retches, who maintained their ground iu<-h by inch, with
a valour worthy of a better cause. Their countenances became more
and more ferocious as they felt the sharp edges of our sabres ; and as
their cause began to assume an aspect of hopelessness, their horrid
yells of rage and disappointment were truly diabolical.

In a few. minutes we cut down four of them, when the survivors
thought it the best policy to make a precipitate retreat, at the same
time turning back in their saddles, to deliver their arrows as they
departed, in order to deter pursuit. 'J'hey might have dispensed with
this ceremony, however, for we felt no disposition to follow them, being
as glad to get rid of them as they could be to escape from us. A
number of them must have carried away some " mortal gashes" on

206 RETURN FROM HUNTING. [1825.

tlieir heads and shoulders, ^\•hich, haviwg no covering, presented no im-
pediment to tlie full operation of our sharp arguments.

After we had rested a little from the fatigue of half an hour's hard
fighting, we proceeded to inspect the field of battle, on wliich we found
seventeen of tlie enemy, lying in the sleep of death. The counte-
nance of the cliief who fell by my musket still wore the smile of
derision caused by the affected awkwardness with which I was dis-
mountino- in order to brino- my musket to bear at his heart. On our
part, \vc had not lost a man, though only one escaped without a wound.
Four of us were wounded in several places, and I felt considerable
uneasiness on that account, until my companions assured me that the
Indians of Sonora y Sinaloa were ignorant of the art of poisoning-
arrows ; and 1 afterward discovered that Humboldt and La Perouse
both attest to the same fact.

The fruits of our victory were eleven fine horses, a dozen bows,
several wooden spears, the points of which were very sharp, and had
evidently been hardened in the fire, and arrows without number. Our
loss was seven men wounded ; three horses killed, and two wounded :
missing none. I tlien proposed that we should unite in returning our
acknowledgments to the great Disposer of events, who had given us the
victory against such a great disparity of force, and saved us from sudden
death, or a horrible captivity. This duty being performed, we col-
lected our spoils and our game, with v.hich we loaded some of our
led horses, and soon set out on our return to St. Diego, at which place
we arrived in safetv, about eisht o'clock the next morning : much
fatigued from fighting, travelling, and the want of sleep for twenty-
ifine hours.

Our adventure with tlie Indians soon became rumoured about, and
the whole town was immediately in a state of alarm. The good padre
of the mission, with most of his flock, thronged about us, offering their
congratulations on our safety, and the old priest actually shed tears as
he audibly returned thanks to Heaven for our deliverance from such
imminent danger. My companions related tlie story in their own
way, and interlarded it with so many unmerited compliments to the
courage, and coolness, and cahnness of " Senor Capitan Morrell," as
they termed me, tliat I felt quite ashamed of it — as every man did his
duty nobly, and not one of them M'as the least deficient in those quali-
ties which they so liberally attributed to me. Heaven favoured our
cause, or skill and courage would have been totally unavailable. Yet
still I feel it a duty to seize every occasion to recommend coolness
and calmness to ever)' one who may be placed in scenes of danger^
especially where the conduct of others will depend greatly upon his
own.

It was with feelings of sincere afl^ection and regret that I took leave
of the friends and acquaintances I had acquired during our short stay
at St. Diego. The good old padre of the mission gave me his
blessing, and made me promise never to pass the port without stop-
ping for repose and refreshment.

April 23d. — On Saturday, at four P. M., we got under way, and
left the harbour of St. Diego, with the wind from west-north-west, and

May.] BAY AND PORT OF MONTEREY. 207

fair weather, our port of destination being Monterey, about one hundred
leagues farther up the coast. Wliile crossing the great Bay of St.
Barbara, we examined many islands for fur-seals, but without much
success. We saw a few sea-elephants, and a considerable number of
sea-leopards, which Mere very Mild.

Among the islands examined by us in the bay just named are St.
Clement, St. Catalina, St. Barbara, St. Rosa, and St. Miguel. The
last-named island is in lat. 33° 58' N., long. 119° 43' W. The coast
between Cape Conception and Cenizas Island is clear of dangers half
a mile from the shore ; and there is a good and safe passage inside of
the islands M'hich lie off the Bay of St. Barbara, and good anchorage
round most of them. From the majority of these islands a shoal runs
off to some distance ; but every danger is marked by the kelp or rock-
weed, M^liich often groM's to tM'enty fathoms in length.

To the north of Conception Point are several sunken rocks, lying
about a mile and a half to the "west of Point Arguello. There are
also rocks and breakers lying one mile off-shore from Point Buchon ;
but the shores from this point, all the M'ay to Point Pinos, M-hich is the
south point of Monterey Bay, are bold and clear from dangers one-
fourth of a mile from the land;

In entering the Bay of INIonterey from the south, it is necessary* to
give the M'estern part of Point Pinos a good berth of about a mile and
a half; as there are several sunken rocks lying more than a mile from
the shore, M'ith shalloM- M'ater on them. After bringing tlie northern
extremity of Point Pinos to bear south-south-east, you may haul into
the bay to the south-east, and from that to south-M'est, and anchor in
six fathoms, M'ith the fort on the M'cst side of the bay bearing M'est-
half-south, distant about one mile.

Maij bth. — Having examined the coast and islands from St. Diego,
to the north, as far as Point Pinos, in lat. 36^ 39' N., long. 121° 30'
W., we arrived at the port of Monterey on Thursday, \\\e 5th of May,
at nine A. M., and anchored in six fathoms of M'atev, clay bottom;
the flag-staff on the fort at the Mcst side of the bav bearing M-est-lialf-
south, distant one mile.

The Bav of Monterey is fomiod bv Point Pinos on the south, and
Point NcM'-year on the north. It is a spacious, sandy, open roatlstead,
about tM-enty miles across, M'ith anchorage near the shore in almost
every part o'fit. Although it is exposed to a heavy swell M'hich rolls
in from the M'cstward, no accidents have ever occurred to vessels
properly provided Mith cables and anchors. The landing is rough at
times, but not dangerously so ; and the best anchorage is in its south
angle, south-east of Point Pinos, close in Miih the shore, so as to
enjoy the ])rotection of that point.

The village and presidio of Monterey are situated upon a plain,
which is terminated by a range of MOod-croM'ned heights. This place
was plundered and burnt, in the year 1819, by a piratical vessel under
the Buenos Ayrean flag, the creM' having first taken possession of the
fort, and destroyed the greater part of its guns. The tOM'n is about
one mile from the landing ; being, as is usual M'hh the Californian

208 SAN CARLOS AND SAN ANTONIO. [1823-

missions, surrounded by a wall of ten feet in height, built of free-stone,
and enclosing about two hundred houses. There are also one church
and a nunneiy. The residence of the governor, his excellency Don
Miguel Gonzales, is a very handsome edifice.

'J'he inhabitants of Monterey are very similar to those of St. Diego,
in appearance, character, manners, customs, and habits. The climate
is mild, salubrious, and healthy ; being on the same parallel as Nor-
folk, Virginia, and never colder than 58°, and seldom warmer than 85^.
This part of the country is well wooded, and tlie soil is rich and fer-
tile. Some of the plantations would eclipse our finest gardens — pro-
ducing all kinds of grain, vegetables, garden herbs, and a variety of
fruits common to the United States. This is a fine place for whaling-
ships to touch at for refreshments, which may be had in great abun-
dance, including cattle, sheep, deer, hogs, poultry, vegetables, fruits,
&c. ; all of which may be purchased here at very reasonable prices.

This coast has been famous for its abundant supplies of hides and
tallow ; but the success of this trade drew such numbers into it for
the last ten or fifteen years, that the cattle and horses are becoming
scarce, and their prices too high to render it a business worth follow-
ing any longer by vessels from the United States. Previous to the
revolution in Mexico, and before a republican flag had ever floated
over the presidios* and forts of California, the government of Old
Spain reserved to itself the exclusive commerce of its hides and pel-
tries, from which they collected an immense revenue.

The mission of San Carlos de Monterey lies about a league to the
southward of the presidio ; it is a small establishment, containing two
hundred and sixty Indians. It stands in a pleasant valley, near the
river St. Carmelo, a small stream that runs into a rocky bay, south of
Point Pinos. The road from the port to this place is truly delightful,
leading tlirough rural scener}^ of the most pleasing and picturesque
appearance. Here are fine pasture lands, interspersed with pine, oak,
and birch trees, with verv little underwood.

About ten miles to the east-south-east of Monterey is the mission of
St. Antonio de Padua. This place is built in a circular form, having
the appearance of military barracks, with a church in the centre.
There are now about fifteen hundred Indians in this mission, governed
by two friars and four monks, who keep the Indians at work in culti-
vating the ground and rearing cattle. All that their labour produces
over and above the support of the establishment, is sold at Monterey
by the friars, and the proceeds laid out in clothing, agricultural imple-
ments, and other necessaries, for the good of the mission, and the im-
provement of the Indians. The latter are very industrious in their
labours, and obedient to their teachers and directors, to wJiom tliey
look up as to a father and protector, and who in return discharge
their duty towards these poor Indians with a great deal of feeling and
humanity. They are generally well clothed and fed, have houses of
their own, and are made as comfortable as they wish to be. The

* With the Spaniards the word presidio is a general name for all forts (both in Africa and
America) which are placed in the middle of a country of infidels, and implying that there are no
other inhabitants, t>esidc6 the garrison, which reside within the citadel.

Kfay.] FARALLONE ISLANDS. ij^^

greatest care is taken of all who are aflected with any disease, and
every attention is paid to their wants.

We found lying in the port of Monterey the Spanish ship Asia, of
sixty-four guns, which had sailed from the coast of Peru in the month
of December, 1824, bound to Old Spain, by the way of Manilla. The
Asia was employed to convey home as passengers the ex-yiceroy of
Peru and suite, many Spanish merchants, and a few troops, returning
according to the terms of capitulation after the battle of Ayacucho,
which secured the independence of Peru. After passing the Sandwich
Islands, in her course to Manilla, a part of the officers and crew rose
on the others and took the ship, widi a determination to turn back and
give her up to the Mexicans. Having thus obtained charge of the
vessel, the mutineers navigated her to the island of Guam, chief of the
Ladrones, where they landed the viceroy and suite, all the merchants,
and a good part of their property. They then steered to the north
until they took the fresh westerly wind, when they ran to the eastward
for the port of Monterey, where they arrived on Sunday, the 1st day
of May, four days before the Tartar. I afterward learned that they
left Monterey after taking on board the necessary provisions, and
sailed for Acapulco, a port of Mexico, on the Pacific Ocean, at which
place they gave themselves up to the Mexican government.

May 1th. — My object in touching at Monterey was to obtain in-
formation of the coast to the north ; but I soon discovered that the
inhabitants here knew nothing of the subject, either north or south : I
therefore leftjhem as wise as I came. On Saturday, the 7th of May,
we got under way, and continued examining the coast to the north and
west, with the wind from west-north-west to north-by-east, and fair
weather.

May 1 \th. — On Wednesday, the 1 1th, we arrived at the Farallone
Islands, in lat. 37° 41' N., long. 122° 35' W. These are nothing but
a cluster of rocky islands, destitute of vegetation. The northernmost,
which is the largest, is about two miles in circumference, of an oblong
shape, lying east-north-east and west-south-west. On each end is a
hill, rising about three hundred feet, and declining to a valley in the
centre of the island, forming the appearance, when viewed from the
north or south, of a saddle. Many years ago this place was the resort
of numerous fur-seal, but the Russians have made such havoc among
them that there is scarcely a breed left.

On this barren rock we found a Russian family, and twenty-three
Codiacks, or north-west Indians, with their bark canoes. They were
employed in taking sea-leopards, sea-horses, and sea-elephants, for
their skins, oil, and flesh ; the latter being jerked for the Russian
market, on the north-west coast. At the time of our visit they had
about fifty tons of this beef cured, and were then expecting the arrival
of a Russian ifessel to take off the beef, and leave them a supply of
fresh water, there being none on the island.

This island is of volcanic origin ; most of the rocks have evidently
been once in a state of fusion, and the lowland is covered with pumice-
stone. Aquatic birds, in considerable variety, resort hither for the

/►

210 PORT ST. FRANCISCO. [1825.

purposes of laying and incubation ; but the Russians seldom give
ihein a chance for the latter process, generally securing tlie eggs as
fast as they are deposited.

May 12^1. — After carefully examining this island, without finding a
single fur-seal, we bore away for Port St Francisco, where we ar-
rived on the 12th of May ; and at six, P. M., came to anchor on the
south-west side of the bay, in four fathoms of water, with the mission
of St. Clara bearing south-west, and the nearest land to the westward
distant one-fourth of a mile from the vessel.

This magnificent harbour, the entrance to which lies in lat. 37° 48'
N., long. 122° 16' W., possesses almost all the requisites for a great
naval establishment, and is better calculated for such a depot than any
other port between the island of Chiloe, on the south coast of Chili,
and the Columbia River, on the coast of our Oregon territory. It is
easy of access, the entrance being about two miles vv'ide, between two
bluif points ; and there is sufficient water for a line-of-battle ship,
within a cable's length of the shore, until she is six miles within the
bay, where a flat puts off from the south shore, about one hundred
fathoms.

After steering in east for eight miles, you will come to a low point
of land, on the south side of the bay, to which a good berth must be
given, say half a mile. Having passed this point, the south arm of
the bay opens to view, extending south a few degrees easterly, for
more than twenty miles. At the head of this is a river which extends
far into the country. This southern arm is about five miles wide for
a considerable distance to the south, with a moderate depth of water,
varying from twenty to five fathoms ; thus affording a water communi-
cation between the missions of San Jose, Santa Clara, and the presidio.
The best anchorage is on the west side of the bay, in from ten to four
fathoms, near the shore, and nearly abreast of the mission, which is iii
full view, about two miles from the shore of the bay, and five miles
within the entrance of the port.

There is also another arm of the bay, which extends to the north
and north-east about twenty -live miles, where it becomes contracted to
a, strait, communicating with a basin more than ten miles in width.
This basin has a water communication on the north-west side with
the new mission of San Francisco Solano. This northern arm of the
bay is sprinkled with a number of small green islands, between which
ihere are good passages for ships of any size, for about fifteen miles
to the north, and good anchorage all over the bay, in from twenty to
live fathoms of water, mud and clay bottom.

Three rivers empty their waters into this arm of St. Francisco Bay ;
one of which, called El Sacramento, has its rise among the Rocky
Mountains near the sources of the Columbia, Colorada, Rio del Norte,
Arkansas, and La Platte. Thus the water on which the Tartar now
reposed was partly supplied from the mountain springs of our native
country. Any thought like this, however trifling in itself, is interest^
ing to those who are far from home. Any thing that reminds one of his
native land is dear to the heart of the wanderer.

The bay of St. Francisco, connected with the surrounding scenery.

May.] PORT ST. FRANCISCO 211

is the most delightful place I have ever seen on the western coast of
America. It presents a broad sheet of water, of sufficient extent to
float all the British navy without crowding ; the circling grassy shores,
indented with convenient coves, and the Avhole surrounded by a ver-
dant blooming country, pleasingly diversified with cultured fields and
waving forests ; meadows clothed with the richest verdure in the gift
of bounteous May ; pastures covered with grazing herds ; hill and dale,,
mountain and valley, noble rivers, and gurgling brooks. Man, enlight-
ened, civilized man, alone is wanting to complete the picture, and give
a soul, a divinity to the whole. Were these beautiful regions, which,
have been so much libelled, and are so little known, the property of
the United States, our government would never permit them to remain
thus neglected. The eastern and middle states would pour out their
thousands of emigrants, until magnificent cities would rise on the shores
of every inlet along the coast of New California, while the wilderness
of the interior would be made to blossom like the rose.

The soil of the surrounding country is very rich, deep, and fertile,,
and much of it is thickly clothed with as fine ship-timber as grows in
the United States, and generally of the same kinds. Pine, spruce, and
red cedar are found in abundance, and of a size sufficient for masts
of the largest ships. At some distance in the interior are extensive
plains, luxuriantly covered with clover and various kmds of grasses, on
which thousands of wild cattle and horses graze unmolested. Many
animals that produce fur are foimd on the banks of the rivers, and a
great variety of fish resort to the bay in the spawning season.

During the summer season the wind generally blows, in the day-
time, from north-north-west to west in the bay ; but never very strong.
During the winter months it blows in the daytime from south-west to
.south-south-east ; but at night, within the bay, it is calm nineteen-
twentieths of the year.

The town of St. Francisco stands on a table-land, elevated about
three hundred and fifty feet above the sea, on a peninsula five miles in
width, on the south side of the entrance to the bay, about two miles to
the eastward of the outer entrance, and one-fourth of a mile from the
shore. It is built in the same maimer as Monterey, but much smaller^
comprising only about one hundred and twenty houses and a church,,
with perhaps five hundred inhabitants. The fort stands on a promon-
tory, on the south side of the entrance, and mounts ten guns, which
would be sufficient to command the passage, were the works kept ia
any kind of order.

] The inhabitants of this place are principally Mexicans and Span-
iards, who are very indolent, and consequently very filtliy. They cul-
tivate barely sufficient land to support nature ; consequently nothing
can be obtained here by way of refreshments for ships ; but at the
mission of St. Clara, of which I shall speak presently, ten ships at a
time may be abundantly supplied with every thing they require, at a
very low price. The table-land before mentioned would produce
abundantly witli proper cultivation ; but its surface is scarcely ever
disturbed by plough or spade, and the garrison depends entirely upon
ihe mission for all its supplies. Sufllcient wheat and vegetables for

2ia CAPE BLANCO. [1835.

the troops might easily be derived from tliis soil if the proper means
were duly applied, as their whole military force does not exceed one
hundred, including officers. '

The mission of St. Clara is situated on a delightful plain, surrounded
by beautiful groves of oak, and other hard wood of a durable nature,
one of which is much like lignumvitae. This mission, which was
founded in 1777, contains about twelve hundred native Indians, and is
governed in the same humane manner as that of St. Antonio, before
mentioned. No person of an unprejudiced mind could witness the
labours of these Catholic missionaries, and contemplate the happy re-
sults of their philanthropic exertions, without confessing that they are
unwearied in well-doing. The lives of these simple-hearted, benevo-
lent men are solely devoted to the temporal and (as they think) eternal
welfare of a race of savages, apparently abandoned by Providence to
the lowest state of human degradation. Surely such disinterested be-
ings, whatever may be their errors of opinion, will meet a rich reward
from Him who hath said, "Love one another."

These converted Indians have a very smart, active, friendly, and
good-natured demeanour. Their features are handsome and well-pro-
portioned ; their countenances are cheerful and interesting ; and they
are generally a very industrious, ingenious, and cleanly people. The
sins of lying and stealing are held by them in the utmost abhorrence,
and they look upon them as two of the most heinous crimes of which
a man can be guilty, murder alone excepted. Tliey evince the most
tender affection for their wives and children, which is abundantly re-
ciprocated by the females and their offspring.

May 17(J(, — On Monday, the seventeenth of Ma}^ at one, P. M., we
again got under way, and put to sea, and continued examining the coast
to the north-west, taking advantage of the land and sea-breezes as:
much as possible.

May 20tlu — On Friday, the twentieth, we arrived at Cape Blanco,
situated in latitude 42° 49' N., long. 124° 13' W. Between this cape
and that of Mendocino, which is in latitude 40° 17' N., long. 123° 12'
W., there are many small islands and rocks, some of which lie three
miles from the main. On these islands or keys I expected to find fur-
seals ; whereas I found them all manned witli Russians, standing ready
with their rifles to shoot every seal or sea-otter that showed his head
above water.

This part of the coast is very dangerous to approach in the night,
there being many sunken rocks lying from two to three miles off-shore.
Cape Blanco, being about fifty miles north of die division line which
separates the Mexican possessions from those of the UnUed States, be-
longs of course to our own country, being a point of the Oregon terri-
tory. Between this cape and the mouthof Columbia River, a distance
of seventy leagues, the coast, I believe, has never beien closely ex-
amined, and of course I cannot pretend to give any description of it.
The Russians make no ceremony of hunting and even of forming settle-
ments on any part of the coast that suits their convenience ; and unless
our government plant a colony there, under the protection of the national

June.] ISLAND OF SOCORRO— S.\NDWICH ISLANDS. 213

banner, our claim to the country will soon be laughed at by the uncivil-
ized vassals of the destroyer of Poland.

May 22d. — Perceiving very little prospect of taking fur-seals on any
part of the coast which the Russians have monopolized, without pur-
chasing them of the intruders, we squared away, and ran before the
wind to the southward. This was on Saturday, the twenty-second of
May. We continued standing to the south-east, with fresh winds from
west-north-west to north-north-west, and fair weather, until the thirtieth
day of May; when, at five, A. M., we were close in with the west end
of the island of Socorro, the south point of which is in latitude 18° 53'
N., long. 110° 9' W.

Mat/ dOth. — This island lies about ninety leagues due south from Cape
St. Lucas, the most southern extremity of the peninsula of Old Cali-
fornia, and a little more than that distance south-west from Cape Cor*
rientes in Mexico. It may be seen at the distance of fourteen leagues ;
is of volcanic origin, though tolerably well wooded ; and is found to be
a convenient stopping-place for vessels wanting water or fuel. These
articles may be procured in a small bay near the middle of the south
side of the island, where good anchorage is found, in moderate weather,
in from twenty-five to ten fi^thoms of water, sandy and rocky bottom.
The shores all around this island are clear of danger two cables' length
from the land, excepting on the north side, where there are small islets
lying near the main island : and about one mile to the north of them
there is a sunken rock, on whicii the sea breaks in rough weather.

At six, A. M., the boats were despatched to examine the island in
search of fur-seals ; but returned, after a faithful inspection, without
seeing more than twenty animals of that species. They saw about
three hundred sea-leopards, and fifteen hundred hair-seals. A variety
of sea-birds are found to frequent this island, and a few small land-
birds are seen among the shrubbery.

June 5th. — On Sunday, the fifth of June, we steered for the Sand-
wicli Islands, with a fresh breeze from north-north-east, and fair
weather, which continued, with little interruption, for more than a
fortnight.

June 22d. — On Wednesday, the twenty-second, at four, A. M., we
saw the island of Owhyee, bearing west-south-west, distant seven
leagues. At eleven, A. M.,we came to anchor on the south-west side
of Mowee, about half a mile oflT-shore, in seven fathoms of water, sand
and coral bottom. We had not been at anchor more than half an hour,
before we had twenty canoes alongside, with hogs, potatoes, pump-
kins, watermelons, onions, plantains, bananas, cocoanuts, and fish,

for sale.

The history of this interesting group of islands is so familiar to every
one of my readers tliat all I could say on the subject would necessarily
be a mere repetition of what has already been repeated a thousand
times. No other section of the globe has been visited so oiteh, or de-
scribed so fully, as this cluster of islands-; for they have been touched
at by almost every navigator tliat has crossed the Pacific since their ^,;-
first discovery by Captain Cook. I shall therefore merely describe V'
their location, size, and appearance, and refer the reader for further

314 SANDWICH ISLANDS. [1825.

particulars to Stewart's Visit to the South Sea in 18-29 and 1830, Ellis's
Polynesian Researches, and the printed journal of almost every voyage

"^ which has been made to tlie Pacific.

The reader is well aware that this group of islands was among the
last of Cook's discoveries, and that he was assassinated on one of them
by the natives. It was under the administration of the Earl of Sand-
wich that this great navigator prosecuted his discoveries in the Pacific
Ocean ; and he therefore named these islands in honour of that noble-
man. The group comprises eleven islands, extending in latitude from
18^ 54' to 22° 15' N., and in longitude from 154° 50' to 160° 24' W.
They are called by the natives Owhyee, Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi,
Toohoorawa, Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheeow, Oreehoua, Morotinni, and
Toohoora. They are all inhabited, except the two last.

June 2dd. — Owhyee, which we visited on the twenty-third, is the
largest and most eastern of these islands, its length from north to south
being eighty-four miles, and its breadth seventy. On the north side is
a mountain that rises in tliree peaks, about half a mile high, perpetually
■covered with snow, and may be seen at the distance of forty leagues.

' To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt

cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cascades ; and the whole country
is covered with cocoanut and bread-fruit trees. The ground south of
the three-peaked mountain is covered with cinders, and in many places
presents black streaks, which seem to indicate the course of the lava
that has been ejected from the mountain, and flowed in streams to the
shore. The projecting headland is composed of broken and craggy
rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in sharp points.
Amid these ruins, however, are many patches of rich soil, carefully
laid out in plantations. The fields are enclosed by stone fences, and
are interspersed with groves of cocoanut-trees. It was on this island
that Captain Cook, in 1779, fell a victim to the sudden resentment of
the natives, with whom he unfortunately had a dispute.

Mowee is one hundred and sixty-two miles in circumference. It is
divided by a low isthmus into two circular peninsulas, the eastern
being double the size of the western. In each of these peninsulas
there is a mountain rising to a very great height, v\hich may be seen
at the distance of twenty leagues. There are no soundings on the
north shores, but the country presents an appearance of verdure and
fertility. Near the west point of the smaller peninsula is a spacious
bay, with a sandy beach, shaded by cocoanut trees. The country
behind has truly a romantic appearance, the hills rising in a great
variety of peaked forms ; their steep sides, and the deep chasms be-
tween them, being covered with trees. The inhabitants are computed
at sixty-five thousand.

Ju7ie 26th. — On Sunday, the 26th, we visited Woahoo, which is
seven leagues north-west of Morotoi. From the appearance of the
north-east and north-west parts of this island, I should judge it to be
the finest one of the group. Morotoi is only seven miles west-north-

._j^ west of Mowee, and its principal produce is yams ; but it has little
■wood. On the south and west sides the coast is indented with several
.bays, which are tolerably well sheltered from the trade-winds. -

June.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 215

June 28th. — On Tuesday, the 28th, we touched at Atooi, which
appears to be well wooded. Towards the north and north-west, the
face of the country is rugged and broken ; but to the south it is more
even. The hills rise from tlie seaside with a gentle acclivity, and at a
little distance back are clothed with flourishing timber.

Ju7i€ 29tk. — On the following day we touched at the island of
Oneeheeow, which is five leagues west of Atooi. Its eastern coast is
high, rising abruptly from the sea ; but the other parts consist of low
ground, except a round bluff head on the south-east point. It produces
a plenty of yams, and a sweet root called tee. It contains about ten
thousand inhabitants. Three leagues south-west of Mowee hes Ta-
hoorowa, one of the smallest of the group. It is destitute of wood,
and the soil seems to be sandy and barren.

CHAPTER YII.

Sail from the Sandwich Islands — Northern Polynesia — Bird's Island — Man-of-
war Rock — Lisiansky Island — Caution to Navigators — Pearl and Hermes
Island — Byers's Island — An unknown Island — Steer towards the Continent —
Clipperton's Rock — A Wild-goose Chase for St. Vincent Island — Arrive at the
Gallapagos Islands — Return to the Coast of Peru — Bay and Tovni of Sechura
— City of Piura — Directions for entering the Port of Sechura — Bay and Town
of Payta — Port of St. Pedro — Bay and Town of Ferrol — Natural Productions
— Cinchona, or Peruvian Bark — Animals, &c. — Anive at the Port of Chorillos.

The Sandwich Islands lie within the tropic of Cancer, about one-
third of the distance from the western coast of Mexico, towards the
eastern shores of China. They lie in a range from south-east to north-
west, Owhyee (or, according to the scientific Ellis, Hawaii) forming
the south-eastern extremity of the group, which is terminated on the
north-west by Nihau (Neeheeheon) and Taura (Toohoora), the latter
being merely a barren rock, inhabited only by a vast number of sea-
fowl. The other uninhabited island is called Morokini (Morotinni), a
barren rock lying between Mowee and Toohoorawa, and would render
the navigation of the strait exceedingly dangerous, did not its elevation
above the water render it visible at all times.

To the north-west of the group which bears the name of " the Sand-
wich Islands," are a number of uninhabited islands, or rocky islets,
which appear to be a continuation of the same chain, nearly to the
180° of longitude, and •30'^ of north latitude. These are called by
the names of Bird's, Necker, Gardner, Allen, Lisiansky, Bunker,
Clarke's, Massachusetts, &;c. As it was my intention to examine
some of these lonely spots, which reared their rugged heads above
the surface of the wilderness of waters, I made but a short stay with
the friendly islanders of the Sandwich cluster, and shaped my course
for Northern Polynesia.

June 30th. — On Thursday, the 30th, we got under way, and steered

216 >ORTlIEi?N POLYNESIA. [1825.

a north-west course, with a fine breeze tVoni nortli-east-by-north. On
the following day we passed within hall' a mile of Bird's Island, and
found it to lie in lat. 23° 8' N., long. 161° 68' W. This is merely a
barren rock of volcanic origin, about two hundred feet above the water,
which is bold all round it, and numerous sea-birds iind a retreat among
its cliUs and precipices.

July 3(L — We continued our course with a strong breeze from
north-east-by-east, and on Sunday, the 3d day of July, at five A. M.,
passed within half a mile of Man-of-war's Rock, situated in lat. 25°
V N., long. 167° 37' W. This is also the ro('ky summit of a sub-
marine mountain, which was once volcanic. There is deep water all
round it, except on the south-west side, where there is a coral reef
extending into the sea about half a mil6. This rock is destitute of
vegetation, and is inhabited by nothing but sea-fowl and green turtles.

Juli/ 6th. — We continued standing to the westward, with fresh
breezes from north-east, keeping two men at the mast-head day and
night, until Wednesday, the 6tli, when we landed on the west side of
Lisiansky Island, which lies in lat. 25° 59' N., long. 173° 44' W. It
is sometimes called Lassion's and sometimes Neavas's Island. It is
but little elevated above the surface of the ocean, and cannot be seen
from the mast-head at a greater distance than ten miles. It is only
aJjout six miles in circumference, presenting a few small spots of vege-
tation, consisting of coarse grass and a little shrubbery. The whole
surface of this little island is ndarly covered with rookeries of difierent
kinds of birds, among which are whale-birds, wake-up-kittles, man-
of-war birds, gulls, and tropic-birds. On the shores we found an
abundance of sea-elephants and green turtles, but nowhere on the
inland could we obtain fresh water.

' Coral reefs nm off from this island in two directions ; and as some
remuneration for their own dangers, they form a safe anchorage bc»
tween them. One of these reefs runs from the north end of the island
to the north-west, about four miles, the sea breaking on its weather
side. The other reef rtms off from the south-south-west part of the
island, in a south-west direction, about seven miles, upon the eastern
side of which the sea breaks all the year round. On the west side of
the island, between the.se two reefs, about half a mile from the shore,
tlicre is a safe and smooth harbour for ships, w'hicli may ride at
anchor in from ten to four fathoms of water, sand and coral bottom.

'i'here is one word of caution necessary to navigators, in sailing
west of the Sandwich Islands, between the parallels of 20° and 30° N..
In erossinsf between these two latitudes, a vessel should never run in
thick weather ; and even in the clearest of weather, they should always
have one or two men at the mast-head, day and night. These reefs,
which are all formed of coral, may be seen from the mast-head, by
their light reflecting on the top of the water, day or night, double the
distance that they can be seen from the deck, and in time sufficient to
avoid them, if there be a breeze of w'ind.

As another reason for keeping a look-out from the mast-head, I
would observe, that in running free, or before the wind, a vessel is
running on the back of the breakers, the foam of which cannot be seen

July.] PEARL AKD HERMES ISLANDS. 217

from the deck until the vessel is close on board of it. But from the
mast-head a man can see the foam over the breakers at a sufficient
distance to give time enough to tack sliip, or haul olf. From a long
experience in these seas, I know these precautions to be necessary ;
and, if observed, they may prevent many serious calamities. Not
only is it necessary to guard against unknown reefs and islands, but
also against islands which have been vi.sited, and nre erroneously laid
down on the charts ; some of which I have found to be one and two
degrees out of the way in longitude, particularly in this part of the
Pacific. The lead and line are of very little use in these seas, as the
islands and reefs are nearly ail surroujided with very* deep water, close
to the breakers.

July StJi. — From Lisiausky Island we stood to the westward, with
a steady north-east trade-wind and pleasant weather for two days,
during which time we saw many sperm-whales and a great number of
sea-birds. On Friday, the 8th, we landed on Pearl and Hermes
Island ; or, more properl}', a group of sand-pits and coral reefs, so
called on account of two British whale-ships having been lost here on
the same night, one of which was named the Pearl, and the other the
Hermes. Thev both went ashore at nearly the same time, and met
their fate about ten miles from each other. These dangerous reefs he
so low, and so near the surface of the water, that the wreck of the
Pearl was seen by the man at our mast-head before he discerned the
land, which cannot be seen more than six or seven miles from a
ship's top.

The Pearl and Hermes were cast away on the east side of the
island, with a light breeze from north-east, attended with rain. Both
vessels bilged in a few minutes after they struck. They were fortu-
nately favoured with moderate weather for several days, which enabled
them to save all their water and provisions, tocfether with every other
article of value, as well as a part of their oil. When this was effected,
all hands set to work in building a vessel of about thirty tons, from
the timber and planks of the two wrecks, which they completed in
six weeks, when they embarked on board of her for the Sandwich
Ir^lands, where thev arrived in safety.

The situation of this island, or rather of the southern extremity of
the reef which puts off from the south end of it, is in lat. 27^ 31' N.,
long. 170^ 28' W. The north-west extremity of the reef which puts
off from the northern island is in lat. 28° 22' N., long. 177° 32' W.
The eastern point of the group is in long. 176'' 11' W., lat. 27° 41' N.
From the north and south extreme points there is one continuation of
small islands, covered with sand, and rocks which appear to have been
once in a fluid stale.

The whole gi-oup presents the form of a crescent, the concave side
of which, facing to the west-south-west, encloses an extensive bay,
with good anchorage all over it, in from twenty-five to four fathoms
of water. Here I have seen pearl-oysters and hiuche de mer ; but it
is difficult to procure them, as there are very few lying m shoal water,
and perhaps not very plenty at the greatest depth. There is an
abundance of fine scale-fish in this bay, of various kinds. The sea-

218 BYERS'S ISLAND. [1825.

elepliant and sea-leopard resort to the islands in the summer season,
in large rookeries, and the former are perfectly tame. Great numbers
of green turtles are found on the sand-beaches, where they come to
deposite their egg:s. The hawk's-bill turtle, also, sometimes visits this
place, but in small numbers.

The water is very bold on the east side of this group, there being
a depth of one hundred fathoms within three times that distance from
shore. On the west side, however, the water runs off shallow for a
considerable distance, to thirty-five fathoms. From thence it deepens
very suddenly to one hundred and twenty fathoms ; and half a mile
farther off-shore no soundings are to be found. The rookeries of sea-
fowl on this group bear no comparison to those on Lisiansky Island,
owing, perhaps, to the island's being so very narrow ; not one of them
exceeding a hundred fathoms in width, from east to w-est, and all of
them are destitute of vegetation. From the lava and pumice-stone to
be seen here, I am led to believe that this whole group has beeft, at
some distant period, one tremendous volcano. There is no fresh
water to be found here ; but turtle and fish can be had in abundance,
at all seasons of the year.

July llth. — We now took our leave of this dangerous group, and
steered to the westward, a little northerly, with a fine breeze from north-
east-by-north, the M'eather still pleasant. It is here proper to remark,
that between Pearl and Hermes and the Sandwich Islands, we tried
the current several times, and uniformly found it setting about west-by-
south, from three-fourths of a mile to a mile and a quarter an hour.
After fresh trades we found the current stronoest.

July I2th. — We crossed the meridian of 180°, the ne plus ultra of
longitude, .in lat. 28° 30' north, and on the 13th we landed on Byers's
Island, situated in lat. 28° 32' north, long. 177° 4' east. This island
is moderately elevated, and has some bushes and spots of vegetation.
It is about four miles in circumference, and has good anchorage on the
west-south-west side, with fifteen fathoms of water, sand and coral
bottom. There are no dangers around this island, excepting on the
south-east side, where there is a coral reef, rmming to the southward
about two miles. Sea-birds, green turtles, and sea-elephants resort to
this island ; and a plenty of fine fish may be caught with hook and
line about its shores. Fresh water may be had here from the south-
south-west side of the island, which is of volcanic origin.

At 6, P. M., we bore up and stood to the north-west ; and at 4, A. M.,
the men aloft saw breakers ahead. We then tacked ship, and stood
to the south-east one hour, when we again tacked, and stood for the
reef. At 6, A. M., we were within half a mile of the breakers, and no
land in sight. We bore up, and passed around the west end of the
reef, which was distant about two miles. We then hauled on a wind
to the north, the M-ater being perfectly smooth ; and after running along
under the lee of the reef at the rate of seven miles an hour, for two
hours, on a north-by-west course, we saw the land from the mast-head,
bearing north-west. We immediately kept off for it, and at 10, A. M.,
we were close in with a small low island, covered with sea-fowl, and
the shores of which were lined with sea-elephants. Green turtles

Aug.] CLIPPERTON'S ROCK. 219

were found here in great abundance, and two hawk's-bill turtles were
seen. This island presents all the usual indications of volcanic origin.
On the west side of this island there is a reef which runs off about
fifteen miles, while that on the south-east side extends about thirty-
miles, in the direction of south-south-east. These reefs are formed of
coral, and afford good anchorage on the south-west side ; but on the
east side the water is bold close to the reef. The island is low, being
nearly level with the surface of the sea, and about four miles in circum-
ference. Its centre is in lat. 29° 57' north, long. 174° 31' east.

Convinced by a careful examination that this island afforded neither
furs nor other valuable articles, we left it to its solitude, and steered to
the north on a wind, intending to get into the westerly variables, and
run down to the western coast of America. This was Thursday, the
14th of July ; and on the Sunday following, being in lat. 34° 11' north,
long. 172° 14' east, we took the wind from north-north-west in a squall,
and immediately tacked ship, and stood to the north-east. On Mon-
day, the 18th, being in lat. 35° 2' north, long. 174° 22' east, we took
a fine breeze from north-west, with fair weather. The winds con-
tinued from west to north-north-west until we were in lat. 32° 15'
north, long. 129° 30' west.

From the 19th of July we continued making an east course ; and on
Saturday, the 23d, being in lat. 34° 17' north, long. 170° 42' west, we
saw about two thousand sperm whale lying feeding : we likewise saw
sperm .whale on the two following days, in shoals of from fifty to a
hundred. On the 27th, being in lat. 34° 11' north, long. 156° 47'*
west, we again saw sperm whale, after which we saw nothing worth
mentioning until Thursday, the 4th of August, when we once more fell
in with a large school of sperm whale in lat. 32° 15' north, long. 129°
30' west. We now took the wind from the north, with fair weather,
and steered to the south-east for Clipperton's Rock. In lat. 27° 0'
north, we took the wind from north-east, which continued until the 17th
of August.

Aug. 17 th. — We arrived at Clipperton's Rock, and at 4, P. M., came
to anchor on the south-south-west side of the island, in eight fathoms
of water, sandy bottom, about one-fourth of a mile off-shore.

This island is situated in lat. 10° 15' north, long. 109° 28' west, and
exhibits unequivocal proofs of volcanic origin. It is low all around
near the water, but a high rock rises in the centre, which may be seen
at the distance of six leagues. It produces a little shrubbery and some
coarse grass, among which I think fresh water might be found by dig-
ging. The whole island is literally covered with sea-birds, such as
gulls, whale-birds, gannets, and the booby. There are also a few small
land-birds, which were probably blown from the American coast during
the hun-icane months. Fur-seal and sea-elephant resort here in
small numbers in the proper seasons, and green turtle come hither to
deposite their eggs. Among the few vegetable productions of this
island we found a plant resembling sarsaparilla, which badly poisoned
several of the crew who handled it.

After taking what few fur-seal could be found about the island, we

* In tliis position the inhabitants of Cape-town, on the southern extremity of Africa, were oac
aeiipoiles, the full diameter of the earth being between us.

220 SEARCH FOR ST. VINCENT ISLANDS. [1825.

got under way, and sailed for the Gallapagos Islands, on our way to
which we had another wild-goose chase for land that does not exist. 1
allude to two islands, which were said to have been seen by Captain
Antonio Martinus, of the ship St. Vincent, while sailing from Panama
to Macao. These islands were said to be in lat. 7° 21' north, and
long. 127° 4' west, lying north and south, with a boat-channel between
ihera ; moderately elevated, well wooded, abounding with cocoanuts, and
covered with fur-seals. They were also said to be about twenty miles
in circumference, with several small islands lying ofl' their west ends,
forming good harbours between them and the main islands. They
were reported to have been discovered on the 17ih of April, 1789, and
that the fur-seal, withAvhich they were literally filled, were so tame
that they would not move out of the way of the crew who had landed
to procure cocoanuts and bread-fruit.

This information I obtained from the priest of the mission of Rosa-
rio, ^vhile I was lying in the bay of St. Francis, in Old California, in
the month of April preceding. This reverend padre was chaplain on
board of the ship St. Vincent at the time of the discovery, and he told
me that he was on shore every day that the ship lay at the islands.
The holy father permitted me to copy these particulars from his own pri-
vate journal, which states that they arrived at the Sandwich Islands on
the 12th of May, 1789. This allowed them a passage of thirteen
days from the new discovered islands, which might easily be the case.
The manuscript from which I copied these alleged facts had the ap-
pearance of having been written forty or fifty years ; and Father St.
Clara assured me that I was the first man he had fallen in with in search
of fur-seals ; and that he was very happy to have it in his power to
give me this information, which he was positive would be the means
of making me a profitable voyage.

I was further informed, that at the time the ship St. Vincent left
these new-discovered islands, which was twelve days after her arrival
there, a tremendous volcano was blazing in the centre of each of the
large islands ; and that three of the small ones, which lay near them
on the west, were also vomiting smoke from their centres. They took
away with them five thousand cocoanuts, two hundred and fifty bread-
fruits, four hundred land terrapins, and twenty-five green turtle.

Relying on the correctness of the foregoing information I resolved
to take an early opportunity of seeking for these islands ; and such an
opportunity occurred during our passage from Clipperton's Reck to
the Gallapagos Islands. We accordingly steered for the parallel of lat-
itude stated in the padre's journal, two degrees east of the meridian
there mentioned. We continued this course, with a fine breeze from
north-north-east to north-east-by-east, with pleasant weather, for one
week.

Aitg. 28t?i. — On Sunday w^e found ourselves in the latitude and
longitude assigned to the St. Vincent Islands, without perceiving any
indications of land, other than discoloured water. We tried for sound-
ings with one hundred and twenty fathom of line, but found no bottom.
We then stood five degrees to the west, on the same parallel, with no
better success. After that we beat up to windward between the lati-
tude of 7° 10' and 7° 30', until we were in the longitude of 122° lO'i

Nov.] CITY OF PIURA. 221

west, -without seeing any thing that indicated land except discolotired
water. We tried several times for soundings, but found no bottom.

We now stood to the north as far as the latitude of 7° 50', and in
that parallel ran to the westward until we were in long. 130° 7' west.
We then stood to the south, to the latitude of 7° 10', and beat up to the
eastward between the latitude of 6^ 50' and 7' 10', to long. 120° 30'
west. In short, having wasted forty-six days in this fruitless search,
we were satisfied that no such land existed within many leagues of the
location assigned to it.

October 13M. — On Thursday, the 13lh of October, we resumed our
course to the Gallapagos Islands, with light variable winds from north-
east to east-south-east, and fair weather, which continued nearly'" a
fortnight.

October 27tJi. — We arrived at the Gallapagos Islands on Thursday,
the 27th, and at eleven, A. M., anchored in the south bay of Albemarle,
otherwise called Elizabeth Bay, in four fathoms of water, half a mile
from the land to the south, with sandy bottom. The volcano of Nar-
borough, which broke out in February, was still burning, but very
moderately.

November 5tli. — Having examined the south end of Albemarle, and
taken a few fur-seal, we got under way and sailed for Indefatigable
Island, one of the same group, where we arrived on Saturday, the 5th
of November, and sent all hands on shore in search of terrapins.

November lOth. — This duty was performed with so much alacrity,
that in four days' time we had taken on board one hundred and eighty-
seven of these valuable animals. We then got under wav on Thurs-
day, the 10th, and set sail for the Bay of Sechura on the coast of Peru,
about two hundred and thirty leagues south-east of the Gallapagos
Islands. We had the wind from east-north-east to south-south-east,
and fair weather with little interruption for more than a week.

November 19M. — On Saturday, the 19th, we arrived in front of the
river Sechura, or Piura, as it was originally named, and came to anchor
at four, P. M., in three fathoms of water, mud and clay bottom, half a
mile from the shore.

This river, which generally goes by the name of Sechura, from the
town and desert so called, and is so marked on the charts, was origin-
ally named Piura, from the province in which it rises and to which it
gives fertility. Its entrance is in lat. 5° 31' south, long. 80° 44' west ;
but its source is many miles farther north, from whence it flows in a
south-west direction, and empties into Sechura Bay north of Point
Aguja, or Needle Point. On the south bank of this river, about two
miles from the seashore, is the town of Sechura, of which I shall speak
presently, and some sixty miles up the river is the celebrated city of
Piura, in the bishopric of Truxillo, and about twenty-five miles south-
east of Payta.

The city of Piura, which is the capital of the province of that name,
is in lat. 3° 15' south, long. 80° 40' west. It is celebrated as being
the first city that was built by the Spaniards after their arrival in the
New World, and as being founded by Don Francisco Pizarro in the year
1631. This successful chieftain also built the first church in it. The

222 TOWN OF SECHURA. [1825.

city was commenced in the valley of Targasale, and called St. Miguel
di Piura ; but was afterward removed to its present situation on
account of the superior salubrity of air. What was gained in atmo-
sphere, liowever, was lost in soil by the change, for it now stands on a
sandy plain, though the adjacent country abounds in wood, and pro-
duces cotton, sugar, and maize.

The houses of Piura are constructed citlier of bricks baked in the
sun, or of a kind of cane called quincasj and they arc generally only one
story high. The population has been variously estimated by difierent
travellers, the meaii of whose calculations would be about twelve
thousand souls. There is a fine hospital in the city, under the care of
the Bethlehemites.

The climate is hot and dry, and it is seldom known to rain for ten
months out of twelve, though the sun is often obscured for many weeks
together. Still the country is by no means unhealthy. In ascending
the uplands between the river and the Andes, to the distance of ten
thousand feet above the sea, the climate seems to be a mixture of
spring and autumn ; while still farther east, at the height of fifteen
thousand feet, commences the region of perpetual winter. Here active
volcanoes are burning and raging within, while all without is clad in
eternal ice. But my observations must be confined to a less elevated
region, near the seacoast.

Here are immense forests of pine, cedar, acacia, and cecba-trees,
of gigantic growth, together with an abundance of others of rich and
valuable qualities for cabinet-work or dying. These forests are inhab-
ited by wild animals of various descriptions, and abound with birds of
beautiful plumage. Various kinds of reptiles and venomous insects
are found on the banks of the river, and the alligator is no stranger to
its waters. The sand of its banks is mixed with gold, which is annually
•washed down from the mountains. In some seasons this river becomes
almost dry, and its tributary streams entirely disappear.

The town of Sechura, as I have already stated, is built on the south
bank of the river, between two and three miles only from the ocean.
This town contains about three hundred houses and a handsome brick
church. The houses are principally constructed of cane or bamboo
basket-work, with sharp peaked roofs thatched with a tall grass peculiar
to the country, and though not very prepossessing either in their exte-
rior appearance or interior accommodations, arc nevertheless \vell
adapted to a climate vhere it seldom rains.

The population of Sechura comprises about fifteen hundred inhabit-
ants, who are principally Indians, or a mixture of Spanish blood with
that of the Sana and Piura tribes. They constitute between four and
five hundred families, and are chiefly employed in fishing or driving
mules. They are very poor, but extremely industrious and economical.
The women employ themselves, when other domestic avocations do
not prevent, in spinning, weaving, and making garments for their hus-
bands and children. The men resort to an artificial mode of sustaining
their strength while at work without food. They chew the leaves of
a plant called coca, which they mix with a kind of chalk or white eartji
called maubi. This is very nourishing, and when used freely will

f^v.] TOWN AND BAY OF SECHURA. 223

enable them to labour two or three days without eating or drinking.
But if their store become exhausted, they soon feel their strength
decay, and must procure a fresh supply. The same substance also
preserves the teeth and fortifies the stomach.

The fishing vessels of these people are very ingeniously constructed,
though somewhat rude in the workmanship. From five to eight logs
of the cabbage-tree, from thirty to forty-five feet in length, according
to the intended capacity of the vessel, are fastened together with ropes
made of the bark which is peeled off the logs. The large or butt-ends
of these logs are all laid one way, and they form the n^ad of the vessel.
About ten or twelve feet farther aft a mast is. erected, secured by
,shrouds and back-stays, on which they set a large square sail. With
this simple rigging these rafts will sail six or eight miles an hour, on
a wind, making httle or no lee-way, which is prevented by a number
of paddles that are thrust down between the logs and serve the pur-
pose of lee-boards. Abaft the mast about ten feet from the stern is a
platform, elevated two or three feet, on which they sit, eat, and sleep.
I have seen these catamarans forty or fifty miles from land.

There is but very little trade to this place, though the inland plan-
tations are very productive. On the coast, between the town and the
shore, the land presents a xery barren appearance ; but the country
through which the river flows produces fruits and vegetables of almost
every description that are found m Peru, and these can be had at a
low price. The plantations depend for moisture almost entirely on the
night dews, which are very copious.

Of the character and manners of the inhabitants of Sechura I mijjht
speak in favourable terms. They are friendly, hospitable, industrious,
and economical; remarkably quick of apprehension, penetratiug,
shrewd, and decisive in their judgments. They are also cleanly in
their persons, being in the constant habit of bathing every morning
before sunrise, either in the river or at the seashore. This is doubt-
less one cause of the uniform good health they enjoy. In their man-
ners they are lively, sociable, polite, and liberal.

The usual dress of the men is a cotton shirt reachmg to the knees,
beneath which they wear a pair of loose trousers reaching to the
jniddle of the calf. The females wear a long cotton gown reaching
to the ankles, with a mantle of baize or some lighter cloth over their
shoulders. On holydays, festivals, <fec., they assume the Spanish
dress. Some of them are very skilful in the use of medical herbs and
plants, with which this part of the coast abounds ; but tliey are very
tenacious of the art, and are careful to keep the secret from Europeans.

Althoush most of them have embraced the Roman Catholic faith,
they all retain more or less of their former mythological notions.
Earthquakes they be-ieve to be caused by the footsteps of the Almighty
"when he condescends to v/alk upon the earth. Under this impression,
whenever they hear an unusual or alarming noise they rush out of
their huts, jumping about and stamping their feet, at the same time
exclaiming in a loud voice, " Here am I ! Here am I !"

The bay of Sechura is spacious, safe, and easy of access, and it
affords smooth anchorage at all seasons of the year. It is, perhaps,

te*-

224 SAILING DIRECTIONS. [1825.

the most eligible place on tlie western coast of South America for
whale-ships to stop at for the purpose of coopering their oil and pro-
curing refreshments, as the latter can be obtained in barter, and there
is very little chance or inducement for any of the crew to leave the
vessel. Here also they are exempt from port charges, and a ship may
safely ride by one anchor all the year round. On the south-east side
of the bay there are extensive salt ponds, of which very little use is
made by tbe inhabitants except in salting their fish.

There are no 43ngers in the way of a ship in entering this bay,
either from the north or the west. The land at the head of it is very
low, and in running for the river the brick church in the town will be
seen sooner than the land to the westward of it. Vessels bound hither
from the south must first make Aguja, or Needle Point, which appears
like a double land, from the westward, and always has a heavy sea
breaking upon it ; there are also some sunken rocks lying half a mile
to the westward of the point. It is therefore necessary to give it a
good berth, particidarly at night, as then the wind near the land gene-
rally dies away to a calm, and the swell is ahvaj's heaving in-shore
from the westward-. Soundings will be found a long way oft' shore ;
and should a ship be becalmed within two miles of the land, she may
anchor in twenty fathoms of water, sandy bottom.

When a vessel is fifteen miles north of Point Aguja, she will be
abreast of Cape Nero, which is the southern point of the bay, lying in
lat. 5° 44' south, long. 80^ 59' west. Between these two points are
manv sunken rocks running off" shore to the distance of a mile and a
quarter. After passing Cape Nero, giving it a berth of two miles, the
bay of Scchura opens to the view, where there is clear ground and a
good shelter from the swell of the sea. The navigator may then haul
into the bay, east a little northerly, when he will experience a decrease
of water. As he advances up the bay he must steer east and then
east-by-south, when he will find the depth of water lessen from sixteen
to five, and close in shore to three fathoms, mud and sand bottom. By
keeping to the windward of the town the soundmgs will prove more
regular, as the bottom is very uneven abreast of the town and river,
where are many sand-spits and shoals, with a westerly swell rolling in
over them. But in the weather part of the bay the water is perfectly
smooth and shallows gradually in approaching the shore. Should a
ship take the ground here, she could receive no damage, and might be
easily got off at high-water.

It is a remarkable fact, and worthy the notice of scientific men, that
the whole extent of seacoast on the western side of the American con-
tinent presents unequivocal marks of volcanic eruptions, such as pumice-
stone and rocks thr.t have once been in a state of fusion, which I have
found at the wash of the shores along the whole ranjje of coast. This
is the case, also, with respect to the islands in the Pacific and Indian
oceans, of which I have never visited one of any dimensions that was
not evidently of volcanic origin, or the remains of a volcanic mountain.
Each island in the Gallapagos group is of this description, as I am fully
convinced by a careful inspection.

Noxieinhcr 2\st, — On Monday, the 21st, we got under way, and reii

Dec] BAY AND TOWN OF PAYTA. • 225

down to Cape Nero, where we commenced taking fur-seal. Between
this cape and the town of Sechura, the land is notliing but a barren
sandy desert, destitute of vegetation and fresh water. This desert or
waste of sand, is ninety miles in extent, of difficult and dangerous
passage. The rocks on the seashore, between Cape Nero and Point
Aguja, are nothing but one mass of lava produced by volcanoes.

Deccmher 2d. — We continued hunting seals between these two
capes, with tolerably good success, untii Friday, the 2d of December,
when we steered for the Lobos de Payta Islands, which lie about
eighteen leagues from Point Aguja, in the direction of north-half-west.
These two small islands are about a mile and a half from the main-
land, between which and them is a passage in which the least depth of
water is ten fathoms. This part of the coast may be easily known
by a remarkable saddle-hill called 8illa de Payta, to the northward of
which are the harbour and village or town of Payta.

In running along diis coast, a ship may pass within half a mile of
the west side of these islands of Lobos de ^Payta, or half-way be-
tween them and the main with perfect safety. There is likewise good
anchorage on the east side of the islands, in from eight to four fathoms
of water, sandy bottom, about a quarter of a mile from the islands,
"which are merely barren lava rocks produced by some former volcano.

Decc?nber 12///. — On iNIonday, the 12th, we anchored in the harbour
of Payta, on the south-south-west side of the bay, about half a mile
off-shore, in five fathoms of water, mud and sandy bottom. The west
point, that forms this harbour, lies in latitude 5° 1' S., long. 80° 57'
ArV. In many respects, this is justly esteemed the best port on the
coast. In entering it, there are no dangers in the way, giving the
shore a quarter of a mile's berth ; and when once at anchor, we are
in a snug harbour, which is perfectly safe, and sheltered from all winds,
excepting from north-west to north-north-east, which never blow here
but in very light breezes.

The town of Payta, or Paita, or St. Michel de Payta, was founded
by Don Francisco Pizarro, in the year 1531. It is a mere village as
to size, though formerly it was a place of considerable trade. The
houses are constructed of split canes and mud, covered with leaves,
snd are generally two stories high. The only exception to this style
of building is the residence of the governor, whose habitation is built
of stone. This town can boast a parish church and chapel, dedicated
to our Lady of Mercy. It is surrounded by a sandy barren soil, and
depends for water and provisions on the village of Colan, which is
twelve miles north of it on the same bay, and near which flows the
river Chera. The Indians of Colan are obliged to send daily to Paita,
one or two balsas loaded with water, which is distributed in stated
proportions among the inhabitants.

Previous to the revolution which secured to Peru her glorious independ-
ence, Paita was the general stopping-place of passengers from Mexico,
Panama, and Colombia ; and from hence they would proceed by land
10 Lima, in order to avoid the numerous piratical adventurers who theu
liovered on the coast, as well as the head-winds, currents, &c. which
rendered a sea-voyage to Callao tedious, unpleasant, and oftentimes

1>26 PORT OF ST. PEDRO. [1825.

•tlangcrous. By this means, they not only shortened their route to
Lima, but often saved much valuable property from the grasp of nauti-
cal freebooters, and from the effects of nautical disasters. This is the
only place wliere vessels from Acapulco, Sonsonate, Panama, &,c. can
louch in their passage to Callao ; and to this place they are often
driven back by adverse winds and shifting currents. Consequently,
the town of Pailaowes its Mhole support to the harbour, where cargoes
of goods sent from Panama are landed, together with those coming
■from Callao, to tlie jurisdiction of Piura and Loja.

The mhabitanls of Paita are principally Spaniards, mulattocs, and
mestizoes, wlio derive a sr.bsistence from the finny treasures of the
deep, and from the passengers to and from Callao and Lima. In tlie
bay of Paita, like that of Scchura, there is an ample fishery, in which
the Indians of Colan, Sechura, and the small liamlets near the coast,
are constantly employed. The whole defence of the town consists of
a small fort, encircled by a brick wall, and mounted with eight or ten
pieces of cannon ; Mithout ditch or outworks of any kind. It has
been often taken and pillaged, particularly by the squadron of Anson, in
1741, when it was plundered and burnt.

Under such circumstances as are here merely hinted at, it must be
evident to every reader that tliis is no place for ships to procure refresh-
ments of any description. Water cannot be had ; wood is procured
with great difficulty ; while vegetables and beef are scarce, and com-
mand a high price. All their supplies are furnished by the inhabitants
of Colan, who cultivate grain and breed cattle, with which they supply
Paila and other towns.

About six leagues distant from Paita, in the direction of north-north-
M'est-half-west, is Point Parina, between which and Paita the land is
hollowed out into a deep open bay, in v.hich is the village of Colan, and
iinother one called Colave. This bay siiould be avoided as much as
possible, particularly in the night, it being very subject to calms.

December 3\st. — After touching at Point Nero, and also at Lobos
He Terre, v.'e arrived at St. Pedro, on Saturday, the 3 1st, and anchored
in six fulhoQis of water, sandy bottom, in an open roadstead, about
three-quarters of a mile off-shore. The town of St. Pedro stands on
l!ie south bank of a river of the same name, about half a mile inland.
Here we filled our water-casks, and took on board a supply of fruit
and vegetables.

There is no danger in lying at anchor in this roadstead, as the wind
never blows very fresh from the seaboard, and it is generally calm at
night. The landing at tliis place, however, is always bad, and not un-
cittended with danger, if attempted by unskilful or inexperienced hands ;
as the boats must be managed with peculiar address and tact, to pre-
vent their being capsized by the immense billows which are commonly
lolling in to the shore. It is therefore advisable, in all cases, to em-
ploy shore-boats, which are built expressly for this hazardous service,
-and are managed by men who have been brought up to the business
from their childhood. Of course these natives are as well acquainted
with the nature of the landing, and are as familiar witli the character
vi the smf on tiiis part of the coast, as it is possible for men to be.

Jan.] BAY OF FERROL. 227

By them every peril and difficulty is encountered and overcome w ith
the greatest ease, while officers and seamen of the first professional
character, who are not familiar with this coast, are liable to be foiled
in their attempts to land, and frequently lose, not only their boats, but
their lives.

The port of St. Pedro has a bluff point of moderate elevation, to the
south of the anchorage, about a mile and a half, which breaks off a
part of the sea from the shipping. The town is small, and built much
in the same manner as Sechura ; its population does not exceed a thou-
sand souls, who are a mixture of the Spaniards with the Sana and
Truxillo tribes. They pay considerable attention to agriculture, and
the inland soil is said to be rich and productive.

This place is of very little note, being deficient in the necessary and
essential conveniences of commerce- — good roads. That which leads
to the city of Truxillo, it is ti*ue, is kept in order, and deserves praise ;
but all the rest are wretchedly bad. The mode of transporting goods
from this place to the inland towns is on the backs of mules, which, for
want of roads, travel over cultivated fields, and thus retard the laboiTTS
of the agriculturist, and ruin his prospects. By this wretched policy
industry is discouraged, and the cultivation of the soil much neglected.
There is eveiy facility for smuggling in this port, and no risk incurred
by the parties.

January 2d, 1820. — On Monday, the 2d of January, we shaped our
course for Ferrol Bay, with the wind from the south-south-east, and
fair weather. On the follov.-ing day, we examined the island of INIala-
brigo, which is a hidi rock, with bold water within a cable's lenoth
from it. There is a good passage between this island and the main,
from which it is distant four miles, with from twenty to ten fathoms of
water. Hair-seals and sea-birds resort to this island in great numbers.

January 4th. — On Wednesday, the 4th, we examined the islands of
Guanape, which lie in latitude 8° 35' south ; there are a group of
small rocky islands, between which and the shore there is a good pas-
sage of from fifteen to ten fathoms water. Point Guanape lies imme-
diately to the east of these islands, off which is a single rock near the
shore. There are some rocks under water to the north of this point,
lying nearly two miles off-shore, between this and the river Moche.
The coast here must have a good berth.

January 7th. — On Saturday, the 7th, we anchored in Ferrol Bay, in
four fathoms of water, sandy bottom, about a quarter of a mile from
the Santa Islands, to the westward, and one mile from the mainland,
to the eastward, completely sheltered from all winds. The entrance
to this anchorage is between the two islands which are tlie most south-
ern of the Santa Islands. This passage is about half a mile wide,
with ten {\ithoms of water, and clear of dangers. Within the harbour
there is sufficient room for fifty sail of the line to moor in perfect
safety, sheltered from all winds, and perfectly smootli.

Small vessels of two hundred tons may heave-down here alongside
of the rocks of the soulliern Santa Island. This is one of the finest
bays on the coast for catching fish with a seine, and a few hair-seal
may be taken in the pupping season. Numerous sea-birds resort to

228 CINCHONA, OR PERUVIAN BARK. [1826.

these islands for the purpose of lnying llicir eggs, and liatcliing tlieir
young. This is also a very convenient place lor whale-ships to stop,
to cooper their oil, overhaul their vessels, and obtain such relreslnnents
as they may require ; for almost any kind can be had here that is
common to the coast of Peru. Tliese will be supplied in any quantity
at the town of Ferrol, which is two miles inward, and near three miles
to the north of the anchorage ; they will be furnished at short notice,
and at a very moderate price.

The town of Ferrol is small, containing only about seven hundred
inhabitants, principally natives, and descendants of Indian tribes which
inhabit tiie interior. The present generation, however, appears to be
•much crossed by Spanish blood. They are very honest in their
commercial transactions, carefully performing whatever they promise.
Like all other Indians, however, they are too fond of ardent spirits.
This place is in latitude 9° 10' S., long. 78° 22' W.

The climate is favourable to agriculture. Its usual temperature is
warm and moist, which brings into existence innumerable swarms of
insects, and animals of a noxious character. The latter frequently
get into the houses of the inhabitants, and even penetrate into their
beds. In the evening they are molested by such multitudes of mos-
quhoes, and other insects, that it is difficult to keep a light burning, as
they fly into the flame and extinguish it. These troublesome visiters,
however, are greatly diminished in numbers during the fresh south and
south-west winds.

The soil in this part of the country is rich and productive. Tropi-
cal fruits of almost every kind are produced in abundance ; together
•with wheat, maize, and grain of various kinds. The European fruits
grow m such great profusion, that the trees are unable to bear the
weight of their treasures, without the aid of props to support them.
Struwberries grow to great perfection, and of remarkably large size.
Orange-trees are ever in bloom, and at the same time laden with fruit,
in various stages of progression, from incipiency to full ripeness.
Olives and almonds, likewise, grow to great perfection in this vicinity.

While on the subject of trees, it may not be improper to notice that
■which produces the celebrated Peruvian or Jesuits' bark, otherwise
called cinchona. This is a production peculiar to Peru, and hence
its most popular name. It has been termed Jesuits' bark, because it
was lirst introduced into Europe by those missionaries. It is used as a
remedy in intermittent fevers, or agues ; and by some persons is pre-
scribed in other kinds of fevers, — in confluent small-pox, in gangrenous
sore-throat, and in every species of gangrene. It is given in powder,
as an extract, a spirituous tincture and decoction ; but the most effica-
cious form is that of powder.

The cinchona is a tree wliich is found only in mountainous tracts,
where it grows to the thickness of a man's bodv. There are three
kinds of this bark used in medicine, viz. the common or white hark,
the yellow bark, and the red bark. The latter is more bitter and
more astringent than the common or the yellow. All its varieties,
however, are highly valuable, and are conseqnently liable to be adulte-
rated with various substances. It is therefore necessary, in selecting

Jan.] NATURAL PRODl'CTIONS, 229

this drug, to attend accurately to all of its characters, in order to avoid
being imposed upon by the vender.

« Cinchona has long been known as a medicine in Peru, where the
natives are said to have adopted its use from observing animals recur to it.
Whatever may have been the origin of its employment, however,
its efficacy w^asnot tested by Europeans until the year 1640, t\'henthe
Countess of Cinchon, the wife of the Spanish viceroy, was cured of the
ague by means of it. It therefore derived the name of Cinchona from
tliat lady. As it usually happens on the first appearance of any novel
remedy, considerable opposition was made to it by several eminent
physicians ; but its efficacy soon overcame the groundless clamour
which had been excited.

The red bark, \vhen first introduced into English practice, in con-
sequence of a Spanish vessel, freighted in part with it, being taken in
the year 1779, was tried in several of the London hospitals, and was
then extolled to the skies ; but its reputation finally gave w^ay to that
of the yellow bark, which has since been generally considered as the
most efficacious. The Jesuits first carried this bark to Rome, from
whence its reputation gradually spread all over Europe.

The animals which are most familiar to this part of Peru are such
as I have already noticed in my remarks on other sections of the coast.
Horses and mules are held in great estimation, particularly the former.
The breed was originally brought from Old Spain ; and, instead of de-
generating, it has become superior to the parent stock. Few Spanish
horses can now vie with these animals in beauty of form or graceful-
ness of carriage ; and they are justly considered as being in no
respect inferior to the famous Andalusian breed. Black-cattle also are
very abundant on the plains in the interior.

The most remarkable animals, however, in this part of the country
are the lama and the vicuna. The former, which is called the Peru-
vian sheep, in many respects resembles the camel ; as in the shape
of the head, the neck, and other parts. But they are cloven-footed,
have no hunch on their backs, and are much smaller than the
camel. The upper lip of this animal is cleft like that of the hare,
through which, when enraged, it spits at its enemy, and this saliva
is said to be poisonous. In a state of nature it is strong and fleet, and
bounds over its native mountains whh an agility that could scarcely
be exceeded by the stag. When domesticated, however, and taught
to bear burthens, this animal loses much of its fleetness, and soon fails
in strength.

The hair, or rather wool, of the lama is generally of a brown colour,
though some few are black, and others white. The texture of it* is
both fine and glossy, and it is spun and woven into a beautiful kind of
cloth. Their flesh is esteemed excellent food, and they will thrive
without trouble or care, being satisfied with the coarsest vegetable food.
The Peruvians find it the most useful of their steeds, as it can go even
longer than the camel without water and food. The vicuna is smaller
than the lama, and its wool is nuich shorter and finer.

The most remarkable birds found on tliis part of the coast are the
condors and hummers. The former is generally about the sixe of an

230 PORT OF CHORILLOS. [1826.

albatross, which I have described elsewhere ; it is carnivorous and
very voracious, frequently seizing the lambs as they are feeding. Some,
it is said, are much larger than any I have seen. When violently
pressed with liunger, this gigantic bitd has been known to seize upon
children ; and the Indians assert that it will carry oil' a deer or calf in its
talons with as much ease as an eagle will a lamb. The hunnner is
aniglit bird, and generally lives in the mountainous parts of the country.
They are seldom seen, though often heard, as the rapidity of their fliglit
produces a humming sound in the air, somewhat like that of a rocket.

There is another curious bird at this place, which is called the
awakener, about the size of a small fowl. Its plumage is white and
black, its neck thick ; head large, erect, and beautifully adorned with
a tuft of feathers. Its eyes are large, bright, and lively. On the fore-
^ part of each wing is a spur about an inch in length, which it uses in de-
fending itself against its enemies. They give an alarm to all the feathered
tribes when there is any appearance of danger, so that every kind of
bird within hearing is put on its guard. Hence the name of " avmkenerP

The mountainous regions of this district abound iw metallic wealth,
such as gold, silver, copper, lead, quicksilver, &c. Besides these,
there are emeralds, marcasites, and other precious stones. I have no
doubt that if the mines of Peru were wrought with skill and industry,
they could supply sufficient gold and silver for every nation on earth.

January llth. — After examining the coast with our boats thirty
miles north and south of this anchorage, without finding any thing but
hair-seals, and having ascertained the latitude and longitude of our
anchorage to be as I have stated above, we got under way on Monday,
the seventeenth, and commenced plying to the south, with the land-
breeze from south-south-east, and the sea-breeze from south-south-
w^est, attended with fair weather, which continued for a week.

January 2itJi. — On Monday, the twenty-fourth, we arrived at the
port of Chorillos, and at one, P. M., anchored in five fathoms of water,
sandy bottom ; latitude 12° 8' S., long. 77° 3' W.

Chorillos is a pleasant little fishing village, on the scacoast, a few
miles south of Lima, and south-east of Callao. It is a great resort of
pleasure parties from Lima, who come hither to enjoy the sports of
fishing, sea-bathing, &c. During the long siege and blockade of Cal-
lao, which only terminated the day before bur arrival, the port of
Chorillos was used as a depot for the commerce of Lima. Every
thing, however, was now in a state of bustle and confusion, as an im-
portant change had just taken place in political affairs, which I shall
notice hereafter.

The village of Chorillos is situated on the southern extremity of the
south bay of Lima. This bay is formed on the north-west by Point
Callao, and on the south-east by another projection, which shelters it
from the prevailing winds, while St. Lorenzo and other islands protect
it on the west. It is of sufficient capacity to accommodate a great
number of ships at the same time. Vessels bound to Callao from the
south should liaul outside of all the islands before they pass this
village; otherwise it will be found very difficult to get sufficiently west-
ward to pass to the northward of Lorenzo Island.

Jan.] LETTER FROM A TRAVELLER. 231

CHAPTER Tin.

Isthmus of Daricn — Letter from a Traveller — Town of Porto Bello — How to pre-
vent a wet Jacket — An excellent Dinner, and Wine with an Excelfency — Canotr
Navigation — Gloomy Prospects — Town and River Chagres — Ascending the
River — Crossing the Isthmus — Town of Cruces — The Pizarro Rond — Cominir
to an Anchor — Emotions excited by a first View of the Pacific — City of Panama

Importance of a Passport — Projected Canal across the Isthmus — Ruins of old'

Panama — An Earthquake — The Gulf of Panama.

The general reader may possibly require some apology for siiclr
frequent allusions to the fact of my ha%'ing critically examined the-
Avesteni coast of America. The nautical reader will expect none ; as
10 him the immense importance of this fact will be its own excuse.
To the latter it \x'\\\ be sufFicieni. to state that I have personally in-
spected and pointed out every danger which exists on this whole extent
of coast, from the Strait of Magellan to the thirty-eigluh degree of norlh
latitude, comprising six thousand miles, wiili the exception of the Islii-
mus of Darien, the west coast of Mexico, and that interesting region
now known by the appellation of " Central America" It has also
been seen, by the attentive reader, that many historical facts and anec-
dotes connected with the revolutionary struggle of the South Ameri-
cans have been interwoven with the thread of this liomely narrative.

^ly examination of the western coast of South America terminatedir
it will be recollected, at the port of Tacamez, fifty -two miles north of
the equator, when the progress of the season rendered it proper ta
steer for the Gallipagos Islands, leaving the Gulf of Panama and the
Isthmus of Darien unnoticed. Thus the chain of my surveys is defi-
cient in a very important link, wliicli I hope to supply on some future
occasion. In the mean time I have obtained permission to lay before-
the public the following interesting letter, which I received while
inaking preparations for my first voyage in 1822. The writer is John
J. Adams, Esq., now one of the editors of the New-York Travelierr
but at that time a commercial agent at Panama ; his lively and graphic
description of which will certainly not come amiss in this place.

"-Panama, May 20, 1822.
" Dear Sir,
*' AVhen you were al)0ut to sail on a sealing expedition to the Falk-
land Islands, as first ofiicer of the Wasp, son.ie two years ago, I told
you, in jest, that before your return I might perhaps take a leap from
the three-legged stool of a counting-room to the quarter-deck of a ship.
You expressed some doubts as to the probability of such a transition ;
but made me promise, in case I did so, to make you the depositary of
* my travel's history,' by regular extracts from my journal. ' I have
done the deed,' but have kept no journal ; and as your return to New-
York was daily looked for when I left that city, I shall partially

ft-

232 PORTO BELLO. [1856.

rcdcc!!! my promise by sending you \i brief sketcli of my ' voyages and
travels' to this interesting section of the globe. But if you find it, as I
fear you will, totally barren of interest, you must rest contented with
the assurance that it was well intended.

"I sailed from New-York on the twenty-first of iMarcli, in the
schooner Selina ; not indeed as commander, but still with the privi-
lege of the quarter-deck, and in poetical language any vessel is a ship, be
her rig what it may. The object of my voyage is not important to ' the
subject of my story ;' still your curiosity may be gratiliod on that score
by calling at ' our house' (meaning the counting-room before men-
tioned). My motives for accepting a commission so seriously inter-
fering with my interests and feelings, and so repugnant to the wishes
of my family, were briefly these : — I wished to convince my friends
(who were alarmed for my welfare, in consequence of my having made
a few successful essays as a tragedian), that their fears were ground-
less, that I could still attend to business, and that I had no thoughts-
of abandoning the commercial pursuits to which, from early youth, I
had been so assiduously devoted. I presume I have convinced them;
but not without a serious sacrifice on my part. A^arious engagements,
the least of which would probably have filled my pockets, were before
me soliciting acceptance, when I agreed to embark on this mission.

"I shall say nothing of mv excessive sea-sickness, our narrow

* 1 »

escapes from pirates, the tremendous storms we encountered, and such-
like hair-breadth escapes ; but bring you to Porto Bello at once, which
Ave made on the twentieth day of our passage. It rained very vio-
lently just before I landed ; and during the shower I saw a negro in u
state of nudity, seated on a rock, with his apology for a garment care-
fully placed beneath him to screen it from the wet. When the shower
was over, and liis ebony skin dried in the sun, he then resumed his dr\'
clothes. This I believe is a universal practice here, it being danger-
ous at this season to wear a damp, much less a saturated garment, to
check the perspiration. The first thing that attracted my attention on
landing was the squalid fillhiness of the place. On the apex of each
house or hovel, which have thatched pyramidical roofs, Avas perched a
carrion bird, with wings out-spread, drying in the sun.

'• I lost no time in paying my respects to the governor, for whom I
had divers presents. Not being an fait to the etiquette, 1 felt a little
palpitation lest I should omit some ceremonial. With my merchant —
the only one I believe in the place — I wended my way to his excel-
lency's mansion. It was one of an extensive block of buildings, uni-
form in their architecture (if architecture it may be called), each with
a court in the centre, surrounded by balconies or piazzas. We passed
through an open entrance or court, penetrating the building, and abun-
dantly filthy. On this score a New- York livery-stable is a palace to
it. A flight of stairs which mop or broom had apparently never vio-
lated, landed us in a tolerably capacious hall, whence we emerged into
a sort of anteroom, without carpet, or any ornament to relieve or
heighten the want of order and cleanliness so manifest. A hammock
was slung nearly in the centre, in which lay the son of his excellency ;
and a lady, in complexion like the queen of spades, received my inter- -

Jan.] , PORTO BELLO. , 233

prcted compliments as daughter of the governor. My surprise reached
its climax when I was ushered into the adjacent room.

" His excellency had completed his toilet, and very frankly came
forward to welcome me. I will not attempt to describe his person or
his dress, except so far as to say that I found myself greeted with a
Spanish embrace by an indifferent looking mulatto. He warmly
pressed me to dine with him, in company with a deputation of 8t.
Bias Indians, with whom he was negotiating a treaty. I declined the
honour, my friend having promised me a delicious turtle dinner : which
of the New- York aldermen, fond as they are of honour, would not
have done the same I I was excused on the promise that I would wine
with him after the repast.

" Accordingly, after luxuriating with my friend, with a restored, I
may say a voracious appetite — I had eaten nothing for the past twenty
days, — I repaired to his excellency's, and found a pretty numerous
party, Indians included, libating ' pottle deep.' By the time these ab-
orighies felt the hquor mantling, the wily governor and his friends in-
fused high-proof brandy in their Madeira ; and it was not long before
one of them, a leading chief, left his seat very unceremoniously;, and as
miceremoniously was conveyed from the room in a state of drunken
insensibility. 1 much question the policy of the governor in this ma-
noeuvre ; unless, indeed, by thus disposing of the chief, he got rid of
one opposed to his views. I would remark of these Indians that they
were fine-looking, muscular men, in general appearance much resem-
bling the aborigines of our part of the continent, particularly in the
gravity of their deportment.

" During the discussion of dinner I had determined to depart imme-
diately for Panama, seeing no prospect of effecting a sale of the cargo
at Porto Bello. My arrangements were briefly made by our captain,
whom I desired to accompany me. I therefore made my adieus to the
governor, suite, and family, with as much haste as a due respect to eti-
quette would permit, receiving from his excellency another fraternal
hug at parting. I had but little opportunity of indulging ihe^ v 01/ age ur^s
curiosity, for very soon after my escape from 'wassail and rout,' the rain
began to descend in torrents ; I saw enough, however, to satisfy me
that you lose little here by my deficiency in observation.

" Porto Bello, as you and everybody knows, is situated on the north
coast of the Isthmus of Darien, now termed the Isthmus of Panama,
and by some the Isthmus of Costa Rica. Darien, however, is the
good old-fashioned name by which we were accustomed to know it in
our school-boy days ; and the whole is washed by the Gulf of Darien.
Porto Bello has a large commodious harbour, with good anchorage and
shelter for ships ; its entrance is narrow, and defended by several forts.
It is about seventy miles north of Panama, and three hundred west of
Carthagena. It is situated, as you nautical men say, in lat. 9^33'
north, long. 80^ 45' west, and is rapidly falling off in business and
iiiiportance.

" At 10 o'clock, P. M., in a frail canoe, witli two negro conductors,
we pushed off from alongside the schooner, bound for Chagrcs. It
required great caution in stepping on board our egg-shell conveyance,

234 . CANAL NAVIGATION— TOWN OF CIIAGRES. [1826.

to avoid swamping her, as I believe you call it. I said nothing ; but!
fth thcU we had /ess than ' a plank between us and destruction.' I
have oiten heard you assert that you never knew wliat fear was. I
thought of you at this moment, and became quite a hero. The moou
lent her light, althoiigli bcdimmed by the mass of ragged clouds sur-
rounding her silver car, imposing a lleecy veil between the earth and
Jier tropical eflulgence. Porto Bello lay in quiet repose, and really
presented a picturesque appearance. The town is situated at the base
of a very high hill, whose ascent is rarely attempted, the shrubbery
being almost impervious, and abounding with venomous serpents. Th«
only death which had occurred liere for some time was occasioned by
the fangs of one of these reptiles, which assailed his victim in the
night, hi his own domicil.

*' I had been but a few hours in Porto Bello, yet I felt as if I hai
sojourned there for weeks ; and I assure you, my dear sir, that I expe-
rienced no regret at leaving it (temporarily, to be sure), as it lay iu
beautiful relief in the moonlight — its few whitewashed buildings finely
contrasted with the long sweep of the sombre and towering forest
which overhung them. I pass over the night, which was sleepless.
Our two negroes plied their paddles unremittedly, unaided by a breath
of air to swell the canvass with v/hich we were provided.

" The morning dawned, or rather burst upon us, with that suddenness
of brilliancy so characteristic of the tropical regions, — I cannot describa
my sensations. We were paddling on a sleeping ocean, miles from
land ; and it seemed as if the slightest breeze would bury us in the
merest swell of the sea. No breeze came ; and, as noon approached,
I languished for one, indiflerent as to consequences. The oppressive
influence of a vertical sun, falling on my unprotected head, was intol-
erable ; and to add to the unpleasantness of my feelings, our ' noblo
captain,' in the action of shifting his position in the bottom of the
canoe, actually perilled our safety ! so frail, so fragile was the accom-
modation which his hair-brained economy had provided. ' Thinks I
to myself,' the next time I embark on an expedition of this kind, I will
exercise a little more precaution. We arrived at our port of destina-
tion, however, in safety.

" If Porto Bello, on a first acquaintance, impressed me so unfavour-
ably, what shall I say of Chagres ? On doubling the high and jutting
promontory at the base of which the town is situated, you are, in a
very few minutes, at the anchorage opposite. Impatient to despatch,
we arranged immediately for a canoe to ascend the river Chagres ;
having boarded a vessel from Jamaica, where the dinner was jusi
ready, — we are not in the habit of declining cordial invitations. I
iiow began to look about me. What a prospect ! A few wretched
hovels constructed of reeds, and indiscriminately located on a low
marshy plain — no wharf — no street — no any thing, indicative either of
commerce or intelligence : no human beings, except negroes, mu-
lattoes, and mestizoes. I felt extremely gloomy. What was I to ex-
pect as I proceeded ?

" Nearly all the houses are built of cane, and thatched ; most of
ihera are without any flooring but the bare earth. All that I had ever

Jan.] RIVER CHAGRES— CROSS THE ISTHMUS. 255

heard of the unhealthiness of these regions seemed as if marked on a
map before me. Deprived in a great measure of the sea-breeze,
with a soil of such fecundity that the saying is common, ' put a plant
invertedly in the earth and it will grow ;' with rain in its season burst-
ing in torrents, a vertical sun almost instantly succeeding, shedding its
scorching rays, and decomposing the vegetation which the rain had
prostrated ; poisonous miasmata, deleterious gases, and ten thousand
noxious exhalations ; with all these legibly written, as it were, upon
the very face of the prospect, how could I prevent the intrusion of
mental images connected with pestilence and dcatli ! On the opposite
side of the river, amid the plantains, and an impenetrable forest of
dwarfish trees, the stately cocoanut towered at intervals, imparting an
oriental beauty to the landscape, even as does the lofty ^Dalm, which it
resembles. I gazed in sorrow, and with melancholy forebodings. The
last words our friend Captain H. said to me on parting, were, ' Take
care, my boy, that you do not lay your head under one of the cocoa-
nut-trees.' To die in such a place ! It appeared to me that a Ceesar
could not have indulged the contemplation without a shudder ! This
place is situated in lat. 9° 20' north, long. 80° 30' west. At least so I
was informed ; I merely mention it because you charged me to be par-
ticular with respect to locations. It is the situation of Fort San Lo-
renzo, which stands on a steep rock on the east side of the river, near
the seashore.

"All things being in readiness, we embarked in a canoe, on the
waters of the Chagres. This river was formerly called Lagartos,
from the number of alligators which infested it. It is navigable for
.sea-vessels only a short distance ; but for boats down stream it is the
channel of commerce between the two oceans. It rises on the ninth
parallel of north latitude, in the mountains near Cruces, between the
Bay of Panama on the Pacific side and Point St. Bias on the Atlantic
side of the isthmus, which here runs nearly north-east and south-west.
From its source the Chagres flows westwardly about sixty miles, then
turns to the north for thirty miles, which brings it to the point of our
embarkation, where it falls into the Caribbean Sea. I was aware that
the passage of this river was obstructed by the trunks of trees which
had fallen into it; and also by swift currents over the shallows; and
consequently did not anticipate much pleasure in the excursion.

" The canoe was managed by four negroes, destitute even of a fig-
leaf to cover them. Our accommodations consisted of a cabin, in
which it was impossible to turn round, and which was formed of hides
spread over bended poles, somewhat after the fashion of our Yankee
wagons. AVe had provided a tolerable stock of provisions^ and ihu.i
M'e commenced our voyage iotcards the Pacific Occ.in. The ascent
of the Chagres proved as uninteresting as it was tedious. The mon-
keys chattered at us as we passed them, and the wild beasts looked as
if they wished to eat us. V/e kept on, however, and after proceeding
about fifteen miles, landed at a small town, located on a bank a number
of feet in height, and which presented an appearance of cleanliness not
found in Chagres. We passed a number of rapids as we advanced ;
and in one instance the canoe capsized, and my entire wardrobe was

236 ' THE PIZAKRO ROAD. [1826.

at once most comfortably saturated with Andean tears. — I thought of
the negro on the rock at Porto Bello. The evident wretchedness, and
the equally apparent happiness of the natives we encountered — pardon
the paradox — 1 will not attempt to describe. Every thing was so per-
fectly novel that I should run into inconsistent prolixity.

"Graces, where we linally landed, is about seventy miles from
Chagres, and at the head of navigation. It is only about twenty miles
from Panama, comprising the whole distance of portage which exists
between the two oceans.* It is distinguished by no features that will
warrant a description. The mules were immediately ordered, and after
two or three John Gilpin capers, to the delight of the assembled town,
which was unaccustomed to be witched by such ' noble horsemanship,'
anglice, mnlcslnp, I gained the Panama Road. Once entered, there was
no diverging, and, as I had nothing to do but to let the mule pick his
way, I displayed great master}' in my management.

" I was on the road made by Pizarro, when the unoffending Incas
were to be made his victims. AVhat will not ambition and the lust of
gold accomplish ! It is no\vin a state of great dilapidation, owing to
the heavy rains, which, rushing in torrents from the mountains, have, in
the lapse of years, piled up the pavement, and formed defiles whicii
are almost impassable except by a mule or a negro. In the neighbour-
hood of some of the savannas, however, abundant evidence exists to
show that it was a work of great labour and finish, Avorthy of the per-
severance and enterprise of that rapacious chief.

" We were conducted, I can hardly say accompanied, by a guide,
who bore a wallet containing our refreshments. The journey was
more than half-completed — (we could not average more than three miles
an hour) — and I had seen our guide but once. Poor Sancho Panza
never felt a more serious yearning of the bowels than I now expe-
rienced ; nor was he accompanied by a more indiflfierent, phlegmatic,
anti-sens II al Quixote than my friend the captain. He attempted to
comfort and encourage me, by stating that we should not see the guide
again until we reached our place of destination. I was famislied, and
thirsty, and despairing, and thinking of the cold fowls I had seen eaten
upon the stage, and the hot ones I had helped demolish at Niblo's, when
we broke upon quite an extensive savanna.

"Judge of my delight on beholding our darkey quietly seated beside
a limping, gurgling, purling (I was so enraptured that I could lavish
every aqueous epithet upon it) brook. Our meal was not a la four-
chette, though our carving was summary. Of a nicely roasted chicken
1 merely took a leg and a wing in my digits ; the captain ditto. Then
came the tug of war. A moment, and it was decided ; neither party
was vanquished, but all eagerly revelled in the spoils. Never before
could I fully comprehend the term luxury ; but as the last libation of
claret closed the marooning repast, I felt that it must have been the
nectar of Jove.

* We learn from the Encyelopiisdia Americana, tliat it has been ascertained that " liigli-water-
mark in tlie Pacific is about thirteen feet higher than in the Atlantic ; but that at half-tide the Itve!
of thePacilic is the same with that of the Atlantic, and at low tide is several feet lower. These
circumstances indmed the (olomhian governnient to conceive the plan of a canal from Panama ti»
Puerto Velo, on the Atlantic side. uhi( h has a l.irse and secnre harbour, and is distant 43 miio»
N.N.W. from Panama. A railroad between the iwocuie^j is already in progress.

Jan.] ISTHMUS OF DARIEX— VIEW OF THE PACIFIC. 237

" Pursuing our journey my attention was called by the captain to an
enormous serpent which was crossing our path, a tew rods ahead of
us. His length must have been iVom twelve to fifteen feet. The feel-
ings he excited were those of a man on a precipice, infatuated to plunge
into the abyss. I could scarcely retain my seat on the mule. A sen-
sation new and collapsed pervaded me. It was but for a moment, and
then St. George himself would perhaps have been less apprehensive.

" I cannot offer any thing worth your perusal relating to the topog-
raphy, Sec. of the isthmus. Here and there was a clearing, with a
cane or log edifice, and some few acres cleared aroimd it. But for
miles you could hardly trace a mark of civilization. An occasional
cross on the roadside indicated that a Christian murder had been per-
petrated there ; the siglit of which, maugre the natural associations it
railed forth, was in a degree refreshing. The serpent, the leopard, and
the monkey abound here ; and how the negroes who traverse the isth-
mus so innocuously, manage it, I cannot divine. I was informed that
they would transport a barrel of flour the vrhole distance on their back ;
and I thought it ' a traveller's story,' particularly when I was passing-
some of the defiles, which it appeared to me, the sure foot of a mule
alone could thread. But we overtook one with three five-i:allon demi-
Johns of liquor strapped on his back, picking his way as unconcernedly
and vigorously as if he bore no burthen. ]My skepticism vanished.

" The road has never undergone repair, although each traveller and
package transported pays a good round tax for its improvement. One
thing perfectly astonished me : — in the centre of a savanna, where the
road branches, ' we came to an anchor,' — in other words, there lav,
iirmly imbedded, an anchor fit for a line-of-battle ship I How it came
there was to me inexplicable. I learned, however, that one of the Pa-
cific squadron had lost her anchor, and that this was transported thus
far to her relief, when the frame of the car which supported it gave
way, killing some dozen or fifteen men in the crush. All subsequent
attempts to remove it proved ineffectual.

"Young and enthusiastic as I am, never did my bosom experience a
more bounding emotion than when, on turning an anole of. the road,
Panama, with its spires and turrets, its extensive savannas, and the
broad SAveep of the rnigJity Pacific, met my gaze. ' Panama !' I ex-
claimed, * thou hast redeemed the isthmus !' What could be more
grateful to the novitiate traveller than the view of an apparently popu-
lous and M'ell-regulated city, after traversing the dreary and dangerous
wild of the isthmus, and encountcriuo- the canoe-difliculties of the mo-
notonous Chagres. The veteran traveller must needs have partici-
pated in the feelings which possessed me. With what pleased alacrity,
in which indeed my mule participated, did I thread tiie extended sa-
vanna ! With what a glow did I contemplate those spires, perspec-
tively beaming in the last rays of a tropical and dazzling sun ! — And,
ah ! with what feelings of awe — of reverence — nay, of sulilimity, did
T look upon the waters, and felt that they presented in their expanse
a ' bourne from which no traveller might return.'

" If an argument at this dav were necessary to establish the Christian
faith, let the skeptic who needs it tracd. Let him visit foreign climes ;

238 • PANAMA CITY. [1826.

let him go wliere hospitality is proverbial; let him wander where Arca-
dian beauties rivet him, and where good faith is invariably extended to
the wayfaring ; — and then let him pause, and ask this question : — ' Did
aught in my wanderings ever inspire me Mitii so mucli coniidence of
security as a simple village spire, rising in the dim distance of the
lonely, and perhaps otherwise cheerful landscape V The answer is
anticipated. No !

"What must have been the sensations of those intrepid and enter-
prising men, when from the mountains of the istlnr.us they for the
iirst time beheld the waters of the immense Pacific ! Fancy and
imagination are fettered — in vain would they portray them. It would
immortalize any painter who could convey even a glimmering of the
expression of the subdued features of him who for the first time
gazed upon it, after being wrapt in wonder from exploring a vast and
newly discovered continent. We cnn cast our eyes to the firmament
when the bright stars are coqucttishly winking ; we can behold the
rising and setting glory of the great luminary, amid its gorgeous and
unrivalled drapery ; we can contemplate the orb of night in its chas-
tened loveliness — and feel our nothingness, and humbly bow ourselves,
as the creation in its immensity bursts upon our bewildered imagina-
tion. But powerful as are these emotions, they shrink into compar-
ative insignificance compared to the feelings of him who for the first
time gazes upon the waters of tliis immense ocean. To the former
objects we have been accustomed from infancy, and it is only in mo-
ments of occasional abstraction and meditation that their sublimity
affects us. But the ocean ever enkindles the feeling. In its apparent
boundless extent, there is, if I may so express it, a palpability, a tan-
gibilit)', which takes the senses captive.

" My first movement, after dismounting from my unruly and truly
obstinate mule, was to seek the quay. In twenty-four days after leav-
ing Dover-street wharf, in the city of New- York, I was laving in the
Pacific ; and am, for auglit I know to the contrary, the first New-
Yorker that ever made so short a cut to reach it. I leave you to con-
ceive of my feelings, and imaginings, and romancing, ' and all that
sort of thing.' I have some recollection of a vivid description you
gave me of the sensations you experienced on finding yourself for the
first time afloat on the vast ocean, after playing the Crusoe, and running
away from your paternal home ; of your anticipations of discovering
new worlds at the south pole; of your first smelling gunpowder at the
siege of Cadiz ;

' Of brun? taken by Uie insolent foe.
And sold to slavery ; of your rsdemplion thence,
And po.laucc in your trnvcl's liLstory.'

I sa}*, recollecting all this, I do not hesitate to let you have a peep at
the romantic workings of my own youthful imagination, as you know
how to appreciate such kind of feelings.

" Panama is a walled city, and its parapet presents a front formi-
dable in the extreme. The ordnance here mounted exceeds in caliber
any thing I have ever seen ; and, ere the intensely darting beams of the
morning sun burst forth, a stroll around its barricade is interesting to
the mind, and invigorating to the body. I have frequently paused in

Jan.] PROJECTED CANAL. 239

wy early rambles, and fancied, as I gazed on the threshold of some
protruding tower, that I saw the insatiate Pizarro brandishing his
sword, while the whole train of Kotzebue's and Sheridan's creation
passed before me like the fevered visions of Macbeth. My rhetoric

cannot charm yon, for I write under peculiar excitement.

********

" I am now in the g-uard-house. Oh ! for a Latin quotation ! I have
no book to glean one from. I am here a prisoner, for fiiiling to show,
or rather to obtain, a passport. Life has a charm it never before pos-
sessed, for I was never before sensible of holding it by so precarious
a tenure; Immured in a prison, with a constitution peculiarly liable to
the prevailing fever ! To die far from home — in a strange place —
among strangers, I had almost said among savages I — to tread the
gloomy path alone — unsupported, unchecrcd by the soothing accents
of friendship and affection ! I would quote Shakspeare, but will not
trespass. I have actually written my own requiem. How did you feel
in Dartmoor prison ? I pause ?iot for a reply.

" Once more I am free, and may pursue my business. I am quartered
"whh the somewhat celebrated Colonel Kirkland, projector of the canal
to unite the two oceans. He is a very intelligent man, but does not
appear (as I apprehend) to entertain correct views relative to the ar-
rangement of the project. He discards, in foto, the idea of a canal
across this section of the isthmus. His location is easterly — com-
mencing at the Atrato, on the Caribbean, or Atlantic side, and con-
necting it with St. Juan, which empties into the Pacilic. This vrould
be all very well, if ship navigation were admissible : but even steam-
boats would find it difficult. Humboldt says that at extraordinary
seasons both rivers have been conjoined, and thus the Atlantic and the
Pacific have been oft united. What shall I say, M'ho am totally igno-
rant of tliis matter, excepting that I cannot imagine a ship-channel
across the isthmus impracticable ? Far better were it to clear the ob-
structions of San Juan Costa Rica, and through the picturesque lakes
of Grenada and Leon find our way to the lordly Paciiic. If there be
not a ship-channel, St. Juan and Grenada v>'ili ultimately command a
preference — an unavoidable preference.

"Much speculation has been arloat as to the relative height of the
two seas.' For my part, I can oiler nothing scientifically, as you well
know. I can and will, hov^'•ever, modestly suggest that t!ie regular
trade-winds cause a heapiiig of the waters in the Caribbean archipelago,
from which emanates tlie Gulf Stream torrent. The reaction from the
Bay of Mexico and the quiet of the peninsula of Yucatan compared
Avith the sweep around Cape Antonio and the dangerous Cordilleras ;
the powerful eddy in-shore from tlie point of Yucatan to St. Martha —
an eddy so strong that our fleet little bark with difficulty stemmed it —
all combine to satisfy me that the water there is constantly beyond its
level. If it be so, a canal cut sufficiently deep would probably be
productive of the most astonishing consequences. The Bahamas it
v/ould not be necessary to cross in our voyaging : indeed it would
probably be impracticable ; for if the water in the Caribbean be higher

240 PANAMA— AN EARTHQUAKE. [1826.

than that of the Pacific, it would naturally take its course to that
ocean, wearing for itself a channel that might eflectually divide the
continent, and render a passage to the Indies as facile, as safe, more
pleasant, and nearly as brief, as almost any other foreign voyage.

" I think a canal might be dug parallel to the river, and near its
banks as far as Cruce.s, and thence continued on the Pizarro Road.
The mountains back of Panama, the lowest of the chain of the Andesi
would not, I think, offer a formidable barrier — tlie road at present
half-circles the base of one of them, and the canal might follow its
track. Kirkland does not agree wiili me in my views, although he
oilers nothing decidedly in confutation. He has appUed to Congress
lor a charter, with exclusive privileges for one hundred years ; they
object to the time, and he is now awaiting an answer from Bolivar,
who by the Jast accounts had triumphantly entered Pasto. Peru's
independence is now considered secure.

" I did not mean thus to attenuate. It must be my garrulity ; for on
reviewing the preceding, I find I have ofiered merely an adumbration
f that which I conceived, and doubtless correctly. It could have
been fully embraced in half the space. It may reach you, however,
at a period when it will not be unacceptable ; for at this moment the
dullest correspondent that ever taxed me would be welcome in a closely-
written treble post-folio sheet. Yesterday I accompanied a party to
visit the ruins of the former town. AVe embarked in the boat of an
English schooner, but although we were on the waters of the Pacific,
^ the surf was too unruly to permit our landing. The town was de-
stroyed by an earthquake, and the appearance of the ruins gave mdi-
cation of fearful violence.

*' The mosquitoes here are very annoying. I have not yet pro-
cured a ne*, and find it almost impossible to sleep. Last nighi, or
rather this morning, I was fairly wearied into slumber, into which I
had just sunk when die captain alarmed me. ' Did you not hear it V —
' Hear what V said I, vexed at the interruption of an enjoyment obtained
through so much difficulty ; ' the car raiding o'er the stony street V —
' No, the earthquake.' — I had heard and felt nothing. He said there
had been two very severe shocks, and the third would likely prove
more so. I arose and went into the large hall where Kirkland and all
in sleeping costume were assembled. What a group for a painter !

" The boldest held his breath lor a while. Some time elapsed, the
shock was not repeated, and we dispersed. Just as I had adjusted
myself for Somnus, I experienced a slight easy undulation of my couch,
which I can compare only to the gentle roeking of a cradle by a
mother, in which lay her infant invalid. It was the last shock of the
leveller whose mysterious visitings quail the stoutest heart.

*' I learned this morning that the large square was completely filled
by the panic-struck inhabitants when the shock was felt. Thev
scarcely ever think about their liability to such visitations, but when
they come are filled with dread. And how can it be otherwise ?
AVhen the ' sound and firm-set earth' totters beneath us, we gaze
upon the lofty towers of our vain creation, and the pride with which
Ave surveyed them is turned into a fearful, horrible apprehension, that

Jan.] CITY AND BAY OF PANAMA. 241

even at the moment their misightly ruins may hide the mangled re-
mains of our humanity. In the most fearful storm at sea, with the
frailest bark, and on a lee iron-bound shore, hope will hover, and ex-
ertion in a degree divert the mind, however despairing ; but when the
earthquake sends forth its premonitions, hope departs. The only
guardian which remains is quiet, humble resignation ; and in what
beautiful relief she appears amid the appalling extravagance of fear
and despair !

" Last Sunday I took a walk with Kirkland to spend an hour at a
little villa about half a mile from the gates of the city. We were en-
countered by a sudden shower, and seeking refuge, were ushered into
a cock-pit : all was life and bustle. A padre, who assisted at mass,
arrayed in his sacerdotal garb, with a fowl under his arm, manifested
ihe deepest interest. I never witnessed any thing of the kind before,
and assuredly did not rejoice at the necessity by which I was thus
enlightened.

" The villa of which I spoke is not only beautifully but romantically
situated. It is offered to me very low, and I think of purchasing it,
and despatch the vessel home, in order to avail of the immense ad-
vantages which at present offer in this unknown and interesting region.
The site of the villa or cottage is beautiful, being on the brow of a
gently sloping hill, which abruptly terminates at the base of a moun-
tain. The house is built with care, and replete with convenience.
The grounds are terraced to their termination, forming a series of
aqueducts or reservoirs, which serve to irrigate a soil unsurpassed in
fertility. On the left an arm of the bay penetrates — but I think gulf
the most appropriate term — for this arm of which I speak is in itself
a bay of imposing magnitude, and of more than imposing magnificence;
for when surveying it, I was transported home. •

" I was gazing on our own magnificent bay — ay, there they lay,
Staten Island in protective majesty. Governor's Island in picturesque
prominency, with Ellis's and Bedlow's imbedded at due distance, only
reposing in. more quiet beauty. The similitude is fully equal to that
which you may have noticed on entering the harbour of* Charleston,
The Astley and Cooper rivers and the fort on the Uttle sandy island,
together with the appearance of the quay, are perfectly typical of New-
York; much more so, however, does this arm of the bay resemble it.
I need not tell you with what interest I looked, while the fireside
(although I was near the equator), by the talisman of imagination,
greeted my vision, surrounded by objects never so dear to aftection, and
certainly never before so highly appreciated. If I purchase this place,
I fear my correspondence will be strongly tinctured with the senti-
mental, if not become mawkish. \

" There is much more that has struck me in a desultory way which
I would fain communicate ; but, fortunately for you, neither time nor
room admit. {

" The population of Panama is variously estimated. Embracing the
suburbs, which are populous, it is stated to be from 10 to 30,000 ; I
think the truth will be found to lie between. The churches are large
and handsomely ornamented. The cathedral can comfortably accom-

242 CITY AND BAY OF PANAM.i. [1824.

modatc in its area any three of our churches which could be
selected.

*' The streets are paved, and are remarkably cleanly. It is a pleasure
to promenade them in the cool of tlie day, particularly as your well-
bred native invariably extends to the stranger on passing tiic most
courteous anil withal graceful salutation. I am true breed, awkward,
and diffident, but anxious to observe and conform to etiquette. I know
not what would be the behaviour, or rather how it would be viewed,
of some of our counirvnien when oflerintj or receivino- the lijjht of a
segar from a courtly don or equally polite signor. In llie action of
tendering and receiving a scgar, simple, even vulgar, as some may
consider it, they add a charm to gi-ace itself

"You must of course know the latitude and longitude of the place,
but as it will take only a line I will give it : 8° 58' north latitude,
longitude 79^ 37' west.

*' I would give you an idea of the pearl-fishery here, but must defer
it. It is being extensively carried on, and is likely to become a source
of wealth. I am informed that the pearls obtained here surpass in
form and brilliancy the oriental.

" The tide rises and falls some twenty feet, and the appearance of
the bay at high and low water varies so much as entirely to change
its aspect. Flats which extend several miles into the gulf are alter-
nately covered and bare at high and low water. Vessels cannot ap-
proach the quay in consequence, and the cargoes are discharged at
high water in flat-bottomed lighters. The roadstead is exposed to
violent north winds, but the ani.'horage is safe. The commerce is not
"what it was, but it must ultimately be great. The whole coast of
California and St. Bias, abounding in hides, cochineal, and indigo, the
cost of which is extremely low, presents a fine market for our cottons,
aflbrding a profit beyond any thing in my commercial experience.
Jamaica has been vastly benefited ; its contiguity and its colonial facili-
ties give it important advantages. The English have fully availed
themselves of the opportunities for advantageous commerce which have
occurred along the whole line of this almost boundless coast. We
however are likely to participate, and largely. An immense fortune
to your humble servant is within reach, if favoured with health.

*' 1 will address you again ere I leave, and without requesting any
extension of courtesy to this imperfect epistle, I am most truly yours,

"John J. Adams."

Jan.] SURRENDER OF CALLAO. ^ 243

CHAPTER IX.

Surrender of the Castles of Callao, by General Rodil, to the Patriots — Dreadful
Effects of the Siege — General Quintanilla surrenders the Island of Chiloe — Visit
the Ruins of Pachamcamac, a magniiicent Temple of the Sun — Homeward-
bound — Strait of Magellan — Two Excursions into the Interior — Entertained
by a Tribe of Patagonians — Their Stature and Hospitality — Human Skeletons
of a gigantic Size — Touch at the Falkland Islands — A fruitless Search for Island
Grande — Arrive at New- York.

Just as we were entering the roadstead of Chorillos, on the 24th
of January, 1826, Callao and its castles, which had been so long and
so desperately defended by the gallant Rodil, were surrendered to the
patriots by capitulation. The Spanish flag had given place to that of
the Peruvian republic ; the gates were thrown open, salutes were fired,
and every thing betokened triumph and rejoicing on the part of the
patriots. Not so with the skeleton of a garrison which marched out
as prisoners of war, ahlwugh the terms of capitulation which their
gallant commander obtained for them were highly favourable. Only
three hundred shadows of men remained of three^ thousand who occu-
pied the fortress a short time previous to the commencement of the
blockade. They were conquered by famine alone, and displayed
through the whole siege a Spartan-like heroism worthy of a better cause*

I have already stated that the independence of Upper and Lower
Peru had been accomplished by the decisive victory of Ayacucho, the
result of a desperate battle which was fought on the 9th of December,
1824. General Rodil, who commanded the castles of Callao, it will
be recollected, refused to sun-ender according to the articles of capitu-
ladon, but obstinately defended them for upwards of a year. Being
well supplied with stores and ammunition, he rejected every proposal
for surrender, and the place continued to be closely invested by sea
and land, and was declared by proclamation to be in a state of rigorous
blockade when I entered it in the Tartar, as mentioned in Chapter III.
' In the mean time all the foreign shipping on the coast sustained much
inconvenience for the want of the fine bay of Callao ; being obliged
during the continuance of the siege to discharge their cargoes in the
open roadstead of Chorillos, a few miles farther south. Oflers of
mediation, therefore, were made by the officers of the British squadroa
on the station, but to no purpose. Rodil still persisted in maintaining
the castles without any possible benefit to his country. The Peruvians
were therefore obliged still to keep up a large force before Callao, at
an immense expense, assisted by a Chilian and Colombian squadron.

At length, after sustaining a rigorous siege for more than a year, and
being reduced to absolute famine, Rodil was compelled to capitulate
to the Colombian forces, commanded by General Salon, who had been
assisting the Peruvians in driving the troops of Old Spain from the
country. At the time of surrender Callao was literally in a state o^

241 SURRENDER OF CALLAO. [18«6.

ruin, presenting the most horrid spectacle I ever beheld. A great patt
of the town was levelled to the ground, and every house left standing
was more or less injured. Unburied dead bodies of those who perislied
by famine or by gun-shots were found in the houses, and lay scattered
about the streets.

Among the persons of note who perished here were the Marquis
of Torre Tagle and nearly all the members of his numerous family^
He had abandoned the republican cause, and took refuge in Callao.
While president of Peru the government had presented to him a medal
valued at thirty thousand dollars ; and this he had oflered to Rodil,
during the siege, for a lialf-barrel of beef and a small quantity of rice !
The sufferings of the besieged can scarcely be conceived. The horses
and mules \vhich they were compelled to kill to prevent their dying
of starvation were sold to the inhabitants at the enormous price of
seventeen dollars a pound. A shigle fowl has sold for eighty dollars,
and ship-biscuit at eight dollars a piece. At the time of the surrender
there was not a dog or a cat to be found in the place ; all had been
eaten by the inhabitants, with as many rats as they could catch. At
the commencement of the siege there were fifteen hundred troops in
the oastles, and four thousand five hundred inhabitants in the town. At
the surrender there were but three hundred troops and five hundred
inhabitants. Thus out of six thousand souls there were but eight
hundred left !

This event was the extinction of the power of Old Spain on the
continent of America. The flag of Ferdinand now no longer floated
over one solitary spot between the Sabine River and Cape Horn. The
island of Chiloe, as I afterward learned, had surrendered ten days
previous, after having been obstinately defended by the gallant General
Quintanilla, whose friendly and hospitable attentions rendered my visit
to San Carlos so agreeable, in the month of November, 1824, as men-
tioned in Chapter II. An expedition under the command of Don Simon
Freire, supreme director of Chili, succeeded in this enterprise after a
skirmish in which they lost sixteen killed and seventy-eight wounded.
When first summoned to surrender, the Spanish general made the fol-
lowing characteristic reply :

" Governmeiit of Chiloe.
"I know of no reason that ought to oblige me to fail in that duty
which I owe to my king, the army, and inhabitants of this province,
who desire, as I do, an opportunity of showing, for the third time, to
the army of Chili, that its attempts to subjugate us are vain, and there-
fore your excellency may spare menaces which you are in no condition
to fulfil.

" God preserve your excellency many years.

♦* Antonio de Quintanilla*

^^Head-quarters de San Carlos de Chiloe^ Jan, 11, 1826.'*

A few days, however, convinced this faithful servant of Ferdinand
that it would be a useless waste of lives and property to hold out
against such a disparity of force : he therefore acceded to terms of

Feb.] RUINS OF A TEMPLE OF THE SUN. 245

capitulation, aiid delivered to the patriots the batteries, cannon, arms,
&c. Thus was the finishing stroke given to the fabric of South
American independence, reared at the expense of so much suffering,
blood, and treasure. May the people prove worthy of the blessing
which their valour has achieved.

Great rejoicings took place in Lima on the day that Callao surren-
dered. I visited the city on the following day, and saw the royal
troops, " the hardy gleanings of many a hapless fight," as they marched
through the town. They were certainly the most miserable, emaciated-
looking men that my eyes had ever beheld. Their appearance drew
many tears of sympathy from the bright eyes of the fair republican
ladies of Lima.

I called on Mr. Whitmore, of Providence, R. L, who was at that time
a commission merchant in Lima, who made me acquainted with the
foregoing particulars. I have lately understood that this worthy man
has returned to the United States with an ample fortune. I can only
say that he richly deserves it, and may he live to enjoy every blessing
that honour, virtue, and wealth can bestow.

My friend Mr. Whitmore told me several anecdotes respecting the
irregularities of the ecclesiastics in Lima and other cities of Pern,
which tended to confirm a previous impression I had entertained not
very favourable to some individuals of that order.*

Februari/ isf. — On Wednesday, the 1st day of February, we found
ourselves in readiness to put once more to sea ; and accordingly, at six,
P. M., we got under way, and steered for the Pachamcamac Islands,
which lie in latitude 12^ 24' S., between one mile and a half and two
miles off-shore. These are several small islands or rocks, ranging in
a line, and extending about two miles and a half nearly north-west and
south-east. They are separated from each other by narrow channels,
which have from fifteen to five fathoms of M'ater ; while close to them
on the north there is" a depth of thirty-five fathoms. Opposite these
islands is the small village of Lurin, and a little beyond it the beautiful
and luxuriant valley of Pachamcamac, celebrated for its pleasantness
and fertility, and still more for a magnificent temple of the sun, built
by the incas to the honour of their deity, the ruins of which are still
standing.

The Temple of Pachamcamac, which is the name of the Peruvian
god, was the most costly and magnificent religious edifice in the whole
country. It contained a golden image, representing, according to their

* On the ITtli of February, 1832, a Peruvian gazette, called the " Mercurio Peruanio," pxiblished
tte following ordonnance of the government, which will show the manner in which the supreme
authorities deal with refractory priests in the city of Lima. It is also curious as an illustration of
the state of society in Peru.

" February llth.—The following ordonnance was issued from the government office on the lOtli
instant, to M. L. Vidaurre, the ecclesiastical governor of the district :—

" • Senor— The government has been scandalized at finding that the members of the religious
brotherhood are abroad at all hours of the night, and that a considerable number even sleep out of
their cloisters, and constantly betake themselves to gaming and other improper houses. The gov-
ernment feels that those disorders, which they know to be merely the acts of individuals, will still
give rise to very injurious impressions against those sacred institutions which have been established
by men illu,strious for their virtues and learning ; and it has accordingly resolved to suggest to you
a regulation which shall forbid any person in a religious habit to sleep outside the cloisters, on any
prclenc* whatever, or to be seen in the streets after seven o'clock in the evening, othenivise they shall
l)€ CMtducted back to their convents by the police.' "

245 HOMEWARD-BOUND— MAGELL.\IS''S STRAIT. 1926.

notions, tlie Creator of the universe, surrounded by a dazzling glorj',
like the rays of the sun. This idol was held in such great veneration
that no human eye except the priests' was suflcred to behold it. Even
the kings dared not look upon it, but entered tiie temple with their
backs towards the altar, and came out again without daring to turn
about.

Pizarro derived great riches from the Temple of Pachamcamac, to
^he amount of nine hundred thousand ducats, although four hundred
Indians had taken away as much as they could carry, and the Spanish
soldiers had pillaged it before he came. The ruins which still remain
give a splendid idea of its original magnificence ; and from tlieir appear-
ance I should infer that the temple had once been joined to the palace
of an inca, and also to a kind of fortress, connected together so as to
form one building full half a league in circumference.

February 6th. — After examining all the islands on tliis part of the
coast, I announced to my faifliful crew that we should now steer for
home, by the way of Magellan's Strait and the Falkland Islands. This
information lighted up a smile of cheerfulness on every countenance.
This was on Monday, the 6th of February ; the weather was pleasant,
and the wind blew from south-south-east. We shaped our course to
the south and west, and continued steering in that direction, with fine
breezes from south-south-east, for twelve days, when we found our-
selves in latitude 31° 4' S., long. 87° 8' W. ; when we took calms, and
light variable w^inds, which lasted for two days : after which we took
strong breezes from south-south-east to west, with occasional foul
weather and squalls ; and these attended us until we arrived at the
western entrance of the Strait of Magellan, which was on Saturday,
March the 4th, 1826.

March 5th. — On the following day, at 7, P. M., we came to an-
chor in a small bay, about five miles to the north-east of Cape Froward,
in four fathoms of water, clay bottom, about a quarter of a mile off-
shore. At this place we lay several days, filling our water-casks,
taking on board a supply of wood, making a new foreyard and sending
it aloft, and attending to other necessary matters.

In the mean time, I embraced this opportunity of making another
excursion into the interior, for the purpose of exploring that part of the
country, and satisfying myself further as to its natural productions. I
was accompanied on this occasion by the same intelligent and worthy
young men who attended me in my former excursion, as mentioned in
the previous voyage, viz. Messrs. Charles and William Cox and John
Simons. We proceeded in a north-west course, as nearly as the une-
qual face of the country would permit, and penetrated far into the inte-
lior, along the base of the Southern Andes.

I regret that I canirot give the particulars of this excursion in detail,
as my minutes were unfortunately lost. Let it suffice, therefore, that
we were absent four days, during which period we discovered several
animal and vegetable productions which had escaped our observation
on the former occasion. We examined several species of timber, the
names and qualities of which were unknown to us, but which exhibited
a. -colour, texture, and grain admirably adapted to elegant cabinet-work.

March.] EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. 347

We also encountered great numbers of guanacoes, but they were rery
shy. Our attention, however, was principally engrossed by minerals,
with which, I am convinced, these unexplored regions abound. I saw
the most unequivocal indications of copper, lead, and iron, of which I
brouglit home several specimens that were examined by some of our
most scientific men, who pronounced them to be equal to any they had
ever beheld.

When we were about forty miles inland, in a north-west direction,
we came to a perpendicular cliff, about one Inmdred feet in height, from
which a mass of earth and rock had been detached to the height of
about seventy-five feet, leaving a stratum of oyster-shells, cemented into
a solid body, and completely petrified. With considerable difliculty,
and some small hazard, I procured a small portion of this petrified
mass, which I brought away with me, being only half a shell, and
weighing four pounds and two ounces. This clifi" was at least four
thousand feet above the level of the sea.

March 9th. — On our return to the I'artar we found her completely
ready for sea, so diligently had the crew laboured during our absence,
under the direction and superintendence of that vvorthy officer Mr. Joha
Nichols, of Salem (Massachusetts), who now commands a ship in the
East India trade, as he has done for several years past. I took this
young man from before the mast, and made an officer of him, because
his intelligence, fidelity, and uniform good conduct had convinced me
that such a step would render him still more useful, and place him in
a sphere more suitable to his talents. I was not deceived in my judg-
ment, and he came home first ofiicer of the Tartar. He then went to
Salem to see his friends, and there he found a " friend indeed" in Na-
thaniel Silsby, Esq., of that place, who has been for many years a
senator for the state of Massachusetts. This enlightened statesman
and noble philanthropist immediately gave my friend Nichols the com-
mand of a ship, with the laudable view of aiding his elevation in the
world, and extending his sphere of usefulness. I would attempt to ex-
press my feelings on this subject, as regards Mr. 8ilsby, and many
other worthies like him, with whom it has been my good fortune to
become acquainted in the voyage of life ; but I fear that my unprac-
tised pen would instinctively run into a strain of adulation that is always
offensive to modest merit. I therefore shall " let expressive silence
speak their praise."

3Iarch lOth. — On Friday, the 10th of March, we got under way at
one, P. M., and sailed to the north-east, with a fresh breeze from west-
north-west, and clear weather. At nine, P. M., we anchored in front
of the River St. Bartholomew, in three fathoms of water, two cables'
length from tlie western sliore. Here I again left the vessel in charge
of my first officer, and with my former three companions made an ex-
cursion into the interior of Patagonia, as we all had a longing desire
to have an interview with tlie natives before we left the strait, having
heard and read so much of this gigantic race, as described by Magal-
hanes, Hyron. and others.

liike most of my contemporaries, I have treated these accounts in a
style of light burlesque or grave skepticism : not that I ever doubled

248 STATURE OF THE PATAGONIANS. [1826.

that these navigators might have seen men of six and a half, or even
seven feet in height ; for many skeletons of Indians have been found
in the western states of North America of a still greater length : but I
"wish to discountenance all exaggerated accounts of foreign parts, which
have a tendency to deter investigation and commercial enterprise.
Hawkins, for instance, gravely cautions navigators to beware of the
natives on the coast of Magellan : — " They are cruel and treacherous,"
says he ; " and of so lofty a stature that several voyagers have called
them giants." Such gratuitous and unnecessary cautions have been
ihe principal cause that this interesting region has never yet been
explored.

From all I have seen, heard, and read on the subject, I have no doubt
that the Patagonians were once (as some of them are now), the tallest
race of men in the world. They were seen by Magalhanes and others
a long time ago, and there seems to be a natural tendency in all ani-
jnated nature to degenerate in size. Other countries have at a former
period contained inhabitants of as gigantic a size as that imputed to the
Patagonians three centuries ago ; but their descendants are now de-
generated by luxury, refinement, and intermarriages with others of a
small stature. The Patagonians, separated from the rest of mankind,
]iave not degenerated by luxury or refinement ; but there is no doubt
that they have from oppression. From whatever stock they may
}iave descended, they were doubtless once existing under more
favourable circumstances than at present. They have been driven
from the southern banks of the La Plata, and the pampas of eternal
verdure, where they once grazed their flocks and herds, to the extreme
southern verge of the continent, where they preferred to starve in free-
dom and independence, rather than become slaves to their remorseless
and unprincipled invaders. They are now but the scattered fragments
of a colossal fabric — the ruins of a pastoral nation. Though their
minds have scorned to bend, it is not surprising if their bodies have
degenerated in stature.

One thing is certain, as I can assert it from my own observation and
actual inspection, — there is just as strong testimony in favour of a
former gigantic race in Patagonia as there is in favour of the former
existence in our own country of a race of animals now known by the
appellation of mammoth. AVe have the bones, and even entire skele-
tons of this huge creature in our museums ; and I have seen in the
interior of Patagonia the bones and entire skeletons of men who, when
living, must have measured more than seven feet in height. 'I'he
tombs or sepulchres in which I found them were covered with large
heaps of stones, probably to prevent their being molested by wild beasts.
The position of these was uniformly the same, with the head to the
east ; and I sincerely regret that after thus violating the sanctity of
their final resting-place, I had not silenced skepticism by taking pos-
session of one of these gigantic skeletons, and bringing it to the United
States. Such an acquisition to a museum would be a very suitable
accompaniment to the mammoth, and such a one shall be exhibited if
I ever visit Patagonia again.

On the present occasion we proceeded into the country, on a west-

March.] LEAVE MAGELLAN'S STRAIT. 249

by-norih course, for about twenty-live miles, travelling over an undu*
iating soil, well covered with grass and small shrubbery, but almost
entirely destitute of trees. At the distance just mentioned, we came
to a thick and heavy-timbered forest, which we found it necessary to
approach with extreme caution, as it was evidently tenanted by wild
beasts, some of which we were aware, by certain unequivocal indica-
tions, were not of the most lamb-like propensities. The tracks of lions
and tigers were easily distinguished ; and we saw a great number of
foxes, deer, hares, guanacoes, luitrias, horses, and a few black-cattle.
Ostriches were numerous, and every tree afforded lodgment to various
kinds of birds, of exquisite plumage, some of which were pouring forth
strains of the sweetest sylvan melody.

Lead and copper ore we found in considerable quantities lying upon
the surface of the earth, having been broken off from the projecting
cliffs which overhung the beautiful valleys through which we passed.
Petrified oyster-shells also presented themselves in the sides of several
precipitous rocks, at a considerable distance above their base.

But the most interesting incident of our excursion was an interview
with the natives, who treated us in the most friendly and hospitable
manner, although it was with extreme difficulty that we could make
them understand our meaning on any subject. As usual, they were all
on horseback, men, women, and children, at the time we fell in with
them, with large droves of guanacoes under their care ; but they soon
dismounted, and made preparations for a repast, of which they invited
us to partake. One of their number, who appeared very expert in the
double office of butcher and cook, killed a tine fat guanaco, and after
dressing it in suitable manner, roasted it by a large lire which was kin-
dled for the purpose. We all ate heartily of it, and pronounced it
equal to the finest mutton we had ever tasted. The wool of these ani-
mals is equal to the best merino.

These men were tail, and well proportioned. Several w^hom we
measured stood six feet two inches, and six feet three inches ; one only
was six feet four inches, and he was the tallest we saw. Their horse-
manship is equal to that of the Chiloteze, the Mamelukes, or any
equestrians I liave ever seen. A company of them in a New-York
circus would soon secure the manager a fortune. Both sexes ride
alike, and their dress is nearly the same, such as I have already de-
scribed in another place. On intimating our intention of departing, they
politely furnished each of us a horse, and escorted us near to the
vessel ; they then suddenly left us, as if under apprehensions of meet-
ing with a hostile tribe. They were all armed with spears, bows and
arrows, and the lasso.

March \^th. — ^\Ve arrived on board the Tartar on Monday, and at
9, P. M., we got under way, and steered for the eastern mouth of the
strah, with a fresh breeze from west-south-west, and clear weather.
On the following morning, at 7 o'clock, we passed Cape Virgin, and at
9, A. M., we took our departure therefrom, tlie cape bearing west-by-
south, distant seven leagues.

March I5tk. — On Wednesday we arrived at the Falkland Islands ;
and at 8, P. M., anchored in Hallett's Harbour, in four fathoms of

250 SEARCH FOR ISLE GRANDE— ST. PAUL»S ROCKS. [1826.

water, clay bottom. On the following day, after taking on board one
hundred and eighty-four geese, which had been shot by the crew, we
got under way at 9, P. M., and once more shaped our course for " the
land of the free and the home of the brave/'

With a fresh breeze from south-south-west, attended with light snow-
squalls, we now shaped our course for the island of lia Grande, said
to have been seen by La Hoche, in the year 1675. La Perouse, by
order of the French government, afterward sought for this island with-
out success, as did also Vancouver and Colnett, by command of the
British govennnent.

lia Koche places this island in lat. 43^ 10' south, long. 3P 15'
•west, and describes it as having a good harbour on its eastern side ; as
being ver}' pleasant, abounding whh wood and water, and having an
abundance of fish around its shores. He tells us that it is moderately
elevated, being about two thousand feet above the level of the sea, and
about forty miles in circumference. Although La Koche lay at anchor
in the harbour on the east end of the island for six days, he saw no
inhabitants. Although doubtful of its existence, I felt sufficiently in-
terested in the subject to spend a few days in search of this island.

March 2\st. — On Tuesday we were in lat. 44° 55' south, long. 35^
43' west. We now made a due east course until our longitude was
30° ir west; when we stood to the north, to latitude 44° 2' south;
and then to the west, in the last parallel, until our longitude was
30° 7' west. This was on Saturday, the 25th.

March 25th. — We now stood to the north, with a fine breeze from
south-south-west, and fair weather, until we were in lat. 43° 10' south,
ivhen we again stood to the east, keeping very nearly in the last-
mentioned parallel, by the assistance of meridian altitudes of the planets,
and double altitudes of the sun.

March 27th. — We continued making a due east course until Monday,
when we were in lat. 43° 7' south, long. 28° 52' west. After running
over all this ground, keeping two men at the mast-head all the time,
with fine clear weather, and a steady breeze from south-soitth-east to
south-south-west, without meeting with any indications of land, we
came to the conclusion that La Roche's island of Grande was either a
nonentity, or that it must have sunk since its discovery ; for if it had
still been in existence, and within fifty miles of the location assigned
to it, we must have seen it. We therefore resolved to waste no more
time in the fruitless search ; but bore up and steered to the north, with
a strong breeze from south-west, and pleasant weather.

April 2d. — On Sunday we took the south-east trade-winds, in lat.
27° 30' south, long. 28° 40' west, and pursued our course to the north.

April \2th. — On Wednesday, at 2, A. M., we crossed the equator
in longitude 29° 0' west, and at 8, A. M., we passed within about one-
fourth of a mile of Penedo de San Pedro, or St. Paul's Rocks ; which
are in lat. 0° 55' 30" north, long. 29° 16' west. These islands, as
they are sometimes called, are nothing more than a cluster of craggy
rocks, about a quarter of a mile from north to south, and nearly the
same from east to west. They are five in number, but only two of
them are of much magnitude. They are entirely destitute of vegeta-

May.] ARRIVAL AT NEW-YORK. 251

tion, and present an aspect of the most drearj' description, the sea
roaring and surging against them on every side. The two largest are
nearly connected with each other, thus forming a kind of harbour, or
place of shelter, for a boat, on the north-west side, where it is some-
times practicable to land, if a few boobies and their eggs be consid-
ered a sufficient inducement ; and these can only be found in the month
of November.

Two small rocks lie oft" to the south-south-west of the large ones, and
another small one lies off" to the north-east, all above water. The large
rocks are about one hundred feet above the level of the sea, and may
be seen at the distance of ten or twelve miles, when they will appear,
from nearly all points of the compass, like three sails. There are no
dangers around them, more than one cable's length distance, that do
not show themselves above water ; and fish may be caught here in
abundance ; the fishermen may be caught likewise, if they are not on
the look-out for the enormous sharks, which are very numerous among
these rocks.

The course of the current here is north-west-by-west, from one to
one and a half miles an hour, which is very apt to throw the navigator
out of his reckoning, unless he be very particular in his astronomical
observations.

April I3th. — We now continued our course towards the United
States ; and on Thursday lost the south-east trades in lat. 4° 15' north.
For the two folloM^ng days we had light variable winds, attended with
heavy falls of rain.

• April 16M. — On Simday we took the north-east trade-winds, in lat.
7' 45' north, long. 33*^ 27' west, which blew strong from norih-north-
oast to north-cast-by-cast, attended with pleasant weather, which con-
tinued for the remainder of the month.

April 30th. — On Sunday the north-east trade-winds left us in lat.
29^ 30' north, long. 64° 20' west, and on the following day we took
the wind from south-south-west, with fair weather, which lasted about
twenty-four hours ; after which we had light variable winds and occa-
sional foul weather for the remainder of the voyage.

May 8tli. — On Monday we arrived at the port of New- York, with
a cargo of rising six thousand fur-seal skins ; and I had the satisfac-
tion of finding oil my friends and relations in good health. Thus ends
this journal of a voyage of twenty-one months and eighteen days ;
during which I had sufl"ered more bodily fatigue, and encountered more
formidable dangers, than I had experienced in either of my former
voyages.

Though many warm hearts bounded with joy to greet my safe return,
the reception I met with from my owners was, to my utter astonish-
ment, cold and repulsive. I had congratulated myself on having made
such a voyage as would give satisfaction to all parlies ; but to my ex-
treme mortification, soon discovered that my pleasing anticipations
were not to be realized. The Tartar did not return laden with silver
and gold, and therefore all my toils and dangers, privations and Jiard-
ships, were counted as nothing. Is the pleasure of a safe return to the
bosom of my home always to be thus irabittered by some appalling dis-

252 MORE DISAPPOINTMENTS. ^ [1826.

appointment ! Let me rather forget all my misfortunes in the deep
caverns of the Antarctic Ocean.

I could pursue this subject much further, but would not willingly
obtrude my private griefs upon the patient reader, whom I now invite
to accompany me on my third voyage, which did not take place until
June, 1828, when I visited the coast of Africa. In the mean time,
however, I made several trips to Europe,

THIRD VOYAGE.

TO THE

SOUTH AND WEST COAST OF AFRICA.

CHAPTER T.

The Schooner Antarctic, built expressly for this Voyage — Sails from New- York
— Reflections on leaving Land — A vertical Sun — Arrive at the Cape Verd
Islands — General Description of the Group — Island of St. Antonio, with its
natural Productions — St. Lucia — St. Vincent — St. Nicholas — Natural Produc-
tions — Indolence and Slaverj' — A Peep at the Interior — Condition of the Slaves
— The Influence of Music — Abundance of Fish — Island of Sal — Drearj' Aspect
of the Country — Arrive at the Island of Bonavista.

From the high destiny which awaited the justly famed schooner
Antarctic, in being the first visitant to a thickly peopled countrj', never
before seen or heard of by civilized man, it may be inferred that her
keel was laid under the auspices of some benign planet, whose in-
fluences are favourable to the progress of geographical science. What-
ever may be the reward or the fate of him who guided this gallant little
vessel through the perilous and pathless regions of unexplored seas to
a new world of countless riches, nothing shall deprive the beautiful
Antarctic of her due share of honour and fame. Her fine-modelled
hull and keel of genuine American oak were the first that ever dis-
turbed the crystal waters and silver sands of this new-discovered archi-
pelago ; and her name shall be remembered with respect and gratitude
by every future mariner who gathers up a cargo of the treasures which
lie scattered, in boundless profusion, around the shores of these highly
favoured islands : treasures which are now unvalued by the natives,
and unknown to the rest of mankind.

But under whatever auspices her keel might have been laid, the
schooner Antarctic was built under my own directions and superintend-
ence, by Christian Bergh, Esq., of this city ; a first-rate ship-builder,
a highly respected citizen, and a most worthy man. She was as fine
a vessel of her class as ever floated on salt water, being only one hun-
dred and seventy -two tons burthen ; of an admirable model, and most
completely rigged. The Antarctic was owned by Messrs. Christian
Bergh &, Co., Charles L. Livingston, and Captain William Skiddy ;
and first rested on the bosom of her appropriate element on Saturday,
the 3 1st da>- of May, 1828.

254 • J?AIL FROM NEW-YORK. ♦ [1828.

They called her the Antarctic in compliment to myself, I being the
only American shipmaster who had ever passed within that circle ; and
also with reference to tlic future probability of her penetrating still
farther towards the south pole. In fact, she was purposely adapted,
in size, model, strength, speed, and equipment, for hazardous adventure
and voyages of discovery. In twenty-two days from the time she was
launched, the Antarctic was completely finished and ready for sea,
being most liberally and bountifully supplied with every thing necessary
lor a voyage to the southern and western coast of Africa, to procure a
cargo of the delicate furs, and such other articles of luxuiy as those
imexplored regions can furnish in unlimited profusion. 1 assumed the
command of the Antarctic on the 24th of June, 18*28.

June 25tJi. — On Wednesday, the 25ih of Jmie, I went on board,
at one, P. ]M., where I found the pilot lying of!" and on. AVe im-
mediately proceeded down the bay, with a light breeze from south-
south-west, and fair wbather. At six, P. M., we discharged the pilot,
and at eight we took our departure from Sandy Hook light, bearing
jiorth-west, distant five leagues, wind as before. I thus commenced
another voj^age to distant regions, with a line new substantial vessel,
and a strong healthy crew of twenty-three active men, in whose faces
the love of enterprise and liie hope of bettering their circumstances
had kindled the most animating smiles of cheerfulness. AVe were em-
barked on what was then expected to be a two-years' voyage on the
coast of Africa, in the South Seas, and in the South Pacific Ocean.

But however animated and cheerful men may appear on such occa-
sions, could we look into the secret recesses of their bosoms, we should
there find some acute feelings of the most touching cliaracter. As their
native land recedes from view, and becomes finally lost in the distant
liorizon, a feeling of desolation steals over the heart, which even the
most active duties will not immediately dissipate. Country, family,
friends, are all far behind ; while the thick veil which conceals the
future is impervious to every thing but the rays of hope. In all human
probability there are some individuals in every outward-bound ship's
company who have gazed upon their native land for the last time ; and
the heart of each instinctively asks, "Lord, is it I?" But were we
even permitted to look so far into the future as to obtain satisfactory
assurance of our own safe return, another question would immediately
follow of an interest equally intense : AVhat ties of affection will be
severed by death during our absence ?

" Tor sailors, though they have (heir jokes.
Still feel and think like other folks."

Many of my present crew were fine, active, noble-spirited young
men, of respectable families and connexions in the city of New- York
They duly felt and appreciated the tender ties of affection and kindred
They had parents, brothers, sisters, and some of them attachments of
a still more interesting character ; and when I caught their eager coun
tenances turned to the fast-receding heights of Neversink, I respected
the sentiment too much to throw any unnecessary check across its

%
I

July] STEER FOR THE CAPE VERD ISL.\NDS. ^55

current. I felt that there was a chord in my own bosom that vibrated
in unison with tlieirs. '

Among my new recruits was a very interesting young man, named
William Ogden, whose age was a few months short of one-and-tvventy.
He shipped only the day before we sailed, and under circumstances,
as I afterward learned, somewhat peculiar. He was a son of the late
Benjamin Ogden, surgeon-dentist, and brother of the present Doctor
Benjamin Ogden of the city of New- York. His amiable qualities soon
gained and secured him the good-will of every man on board ; and I
became imperceptibly so strongly attached to him that he seemed to
me like a brother. But as I shall frequently have occasion to speak
of- him in the course of this voyage, I shall now leave him for the
present, and attend to the tracing of our course from Sandy Hook light-
house to the Cape Verd Islands.

We stretched far to the east, along the parallels of 37^ and 30° north
latitude, with variable winds and changeable weather, for more than a
week, without the occurrence of any thing worthy of record. Our
object was to make the Cape Verd Islands by the most direct course
the winds and weather \w)uld admit of, as we were there to procure
salt and other necessaries for the voyage.

July -ith. — On Friday, the 4th of July, we were in latitude 36° 0'
north, long. 47° 30' west. This being the anniversary of our national
independence, we celebrated it in the usual nautical style, by displaying
our stars and stripes, tiring a federal salute, and making a few tempe-
rate libations to the goddess of Liberty. On the following day I com-
pleted the thirty-third year of my age.

Juli/ I6th. — On Wednesday, the 16th, we took the north-east
trade- winds in latitude 28° 30' N., long. 31^^ 0' W., which continued
from north-east to east, attended with fair weather, for several days.
We crossed the tropic of Cancer on the 18th, in long. 29° 0' W.

July 20th. — On Sunday, the 20th, being in latitude 20° N., the
sun was vertical at twelve, M., the declination and our latitude dif-
fering but two miles. At this time, in taking an observation, the sun
Dearly swept the horizon at all points of the compass, and no perpen-
dicular object produced a shadov/. The thermometer at this time
stood at 89°, and the temperature of the water was 80°.

It has been justly observed that " a vertical sun is as much a miracle
to an extra-tropical inhabitant, as snow and ice to an inter-tropical one."
It is certainly a wonderful sight, and yet it has become so familiar to
mariners that they seldom notice it at all, and scarcely ever in their
journals. To be surrounded by solar beams, descending perpendicu-
larly upon your head — to be enveloped in a shroud of sunshine, clothed
in a mantle of light, without a shadow or a visible sun until you change
your position — is a phenomenon of much sublimity to a philosophic
observer.

" Yoar form no darkling «badow itrovrs
Vpon the >e8se;'8 dtck.''

July 22d. — On Tuesday, the 22d, at one, P. M., we passed
close along tlie north side of the island of St. Antonio, the most

256 CAPE VERDS. [18og.

northern and western of the Cape Verd Islands. The centre of
this island is in latuiide 17° 4' N., long. 25° 23' W. ; and in clear
weather it may be seen from a ship's deck at the distance of twenty-
live leagues. This is not often the case, however, as hazy and cloudy
weather generally prevails among these islands.

Although the general appellation of "Cape Verd Islands" is fa-
miliar to readers of all classes, I find that there are great numbers of
people who are totally ignorant of their history, and even of their loca-
tion. For the information of such, I shall drop a few words before I
proceed any further with my journal.

The broadest part of that vast section of the globe called Africa extends
from Cape Guardafui, on the east, to Cape Verd on the west, a dis-
tance of nearly ybe^r tlwusand six hundred miles ! Cape Verd points
due west into the Atlantic Ocean, in latitude 14° 44' N., about one
hundred and forty-five miles north-west of the mouth of the river Gam-
bia, and is of course the most westerly land of Africa. Cape Verd
projects from that part of Africa called Senegambia, renowned for its
inexhaustible fertility of soil, as well as for the ferocious perversity of
the natives. Whether this cape has derived its name from its natural
verdure, or, as some pretend, from a green marine vegetable that abounds
in those waters, I cannot presume to determine ; at all events, it has
given its name to a group of islands lying about one hundred leagues
westward of the coast, in the Atlantic Ocean, between the fourteenth
and eighteenth degrees of north latitude.

These islands were first discovered by the Portuguese, in the year
1446. They are said to have been known to the ancients under the
name of Gorgades ; but not visited by the moderns till they were dis-
covered, in the year just mentioned, by Anthony Noel, a Genoese in
the service of Portugal, and received their general name from their
situation opposite Cape Verd. They are ten in number, besides islets^
and rocks, lying nearly in a semicircle. Their names are St. Antonio,
St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Branco, llaza, St. Nicholas, Sal, Bonavista,
Mayo, St. Jago, Fuego, and Brava. Of all these, St. Jago is the
principal.

These islands are generally mountainous ; some of them are baiTen
and uninhabited ; others are very productive. Notwithstanding the
droughts to which they are subject, their natural produce in cotton,
indigo, fruits, salt, ^oat-skins, and turtle oil, might give them a consider-
able value under a more hitelligent government. Their actual popula-
tion is estimated at forty-two thousand souls. The air is hot and in-
salubrious, rain being very rare ; but a north-east breeze commonly
rises before four o'clock, P. M.

The marine vegetable before alluded to, from which some say these
islands derive their name, is called by the Portuguese mar de sargasso^
or sea-lentils ; it resembles watercresses in appearance, and produces a
berry somewhat like the gooseberry. In some places it is so abundant
as to impede the progress of vessels in their course. To the north of
these islands, according to the best authorities, " the waters of the ocean
disappear under a thick bed of seaweed, which, like a floating meadow,
extends as far as the twenty-fifth parallel, and occupies a space of sixty

July.] ^-^PE VERBS— ST. ANTONIO. 257

thousand square leagues ; from which ships disengage themselves with
difficulty. Other masses of seaweed are also seen in parts of the sea
more to the north-west, between the tropic of Cancer and the Azores."
Columbus, in his first voyage, passed through this marine meadow, to
the no small alarm of his timid companions.

^ As these islands lie several hundred miles west from the continent,

y they are not subject to such intense heat as is experienced on the coast
of Senegambia in the same latitude, which is caused by the east trade-
winds arriving on this coast after having swept over the burning surface
of Africa in all its breadth, of more than four thousand miles. In thus

^ passing over the sultry continent, the air acquires a great capacity for
imbibing moisture ; and consequently in continuing its progress west-
ward over the ocean to the Verd Islands, it becomes, in the dry season,
saturated to the highest point, so that the least diminution of tempera-

^ ture causes it to deposite abundant vapour. Not only the highest peak
of St. Antonio, which has an elevation of more tlian seven thousand
feet, but also the whole central ridije of hills on all the islands, down
to two thousand feet, are generally enveloped in clouds, from tea
o'clock in the morning until late in the evening. This humidity clothes
the hills with thick pasture grass, giving to the country a feature en-

. tirely unlocked for in so low a lathude.

W St. Antonio, being the most northern and western of the Cape
Verd Islands, is often adopted as the point from which ships take their
^departure when bound to diiferent parts of the East Indies.* Indeed,
before the late improvements in nautical science, the perfection of chro-
nometers, and the use of lunar observations, it vras highly necessarj' to
make this or some other island of the group, in order to correct the
ship's reckoning. At present, however, the making of land for this
purpose is not considered essential, v/here the master has good instru-
ments on board, and understands the use oithem. Still St. Antonio may

. ..i)e passed in sight, the island being to the eastward of the ship, without
any apprehensions of delay from calms or light winds, if the vessel
does not come within twenty miles of the land.

Ships bound from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope, or by that
route to the East Indies, generally take their departure from one of the
Cape Verd Islands, and then steer south-west, stretching over towards
the coast of Brazil so as to cross the equator between the meridians of
28*^ and 30^ west longitude. This apparently round-about course is
adopted to avoid the tedious calms and adverse cuiTcnts which con-
tinually prevail on the coast of Guinea. For south of the Cape de
Verd Islands, " even along the meridians of these very islands, that part
of the ocean must be traversed, so fatal to navigators, where long calms
detain the ships under a sky charged with electric clouds, pouring
down by turns torrents of rain and fiie. This sea of thunder^ being a
focus of mortal diseases, is avoided as much as possible both in ap-
proachinjr the coast of Africa and in seeking those of America."*
Though this western course involves the greatest distance, it always

* MiUte Brun.

2^56 St. ANTONIO— ST. VINCENt*d. [1828.

y)rovcs to be the shortest in the end, as they who adopt it never lack
westerly winds to waft them to the Cape of Good Hope.

The island of St. Antonio is about twenty-two miles in length and
tweh'e wide, stretcliing from north-east to south-west, and aboimding
with high mountains, whose tops are constantly covered with snow,
•end are generally hid in the clouds : some say they are equal in eleva-
tion to the Peak of TenerilTe. In approaching this island there are no
dangers to be avoided ; the water is bold all around it, and it may be
circumnavigated with perfect safety a cable's length from the shore.

There are several good anchoring places on the south and west
sides of this island, where wood and water may be had with despatch.
The town and custom-house, however, are on its northern extremity
just witliin a narrow point of land that extends off to the north-west,
and affords smooth landing for boats all the year round. Here may
be procured, in gTeat abundance, black-cattle, sheep, goats, hogs, and
poultry, by giving one day's notice, together with vegetables and fruits
of the finest growth and flavour, in any quantity, and at very moderate
prices.

The population of this island is estimated at about five hundred per-
sons, chiefly negroes, under the protection of the Portuguese. The
soil is good, well watered, and produces the indigo-plant, the dragon-
tree, orange and lemon-trees ; palms, melons, bacovas, pomegranates,
and the sugar-cane. The potato and the melon are particularly ex-
cellent, and much sought after by mariners. Topazes are found in
abundance in one of the moimtains, and Frizier assures us that there are
mines of gold and silver in the island. From the mountains descend
•streams of excellent water, which render the land very fruitful.

Sixteen miles south-east of the island just described is that of St.
Vincent's, separated from it by a clear and navigable channel. It is
about thirteen miles in length from east to west, and eiglit in breadth,
being about thirty in circumference. The land is generally elevated,
Hjxcept towards the north-west, where it is low and sandy. On this
side of the island, looking towards St. Antonio, is a fine capacious
%ay, or road, called Porto Grande, with a rock in its centre rising from
the water like a tower, 'j'his bay, which is about five miles broad at
its mouth, stretches far inland, where it is surrounded by high moun-
tains on every side, sheltering it from all winds, and rendering it one
of the safest harbours in all the Cape Verd Islands. But it is not the
most easy of access, in consequence of the impetuous winds which
frequently blow ofl* the mountains along the coast, so as to endanger
ships before they can secure a berth within this peaceful haven. There
are several other bays on the soutli, south-west, and west sides of the
island, where good anchorage may be obtained ; and these are gene-
rally selected by the Portuguese for landing their hides. Good fresh
■water may be procured on this island by digging a little depth into the
soil of the valley, but the hills are totally destitute of it. Its bays
abound with excellent fish, and refreshments of various kinds may be
procured with but little difficulty. Here also vessels may be supplied
with fuel of a good quality.

Ten miles east-by-souih of St.. Vincent's is the island of St. Lucia,

July.] ST. LUCIA— ST. NICHOLAS. ' 259

not more than eight miles in length from north-west to south-east, and
about three in width. On the east side is a harbour, defended by two
small islands, which affords good shelter and anchorage, and on the
south-west side are the ruins of a village and a well of fresh water.
The land is considerably elevated, and quite barren. There are some
rocky islets lying off its north-west end, but no dangers that extend
more than one mile from the shore.

Seventeen miles east-by-south from St. Lucia is the island of St.
Nicholas, which is the most pleasant of the whole group. It is of
irregular shape, with several concave sides and promontories projecting
to almost every point of the compass. Its extreme length from east to
west is about twenty-seven miles, and its mean breadtli for two-thirds
of that distance, counting from its eastern point, does not exceed five
miles ; but here its southern side suddenly projects to the south, making
the distance from its extreme north to its extreme south point not less
than fifteen miles.

This island, with its three neighbours just described, together with
two islets called Branco and Raza, constitute a cluster by them-
selves in the north-w^est, while the others in the east, south-east, and
south, form the segment of a circle, of which St. Nicholas is the centre.
Branco and Raza are small barren islets, destitute of water and
• inhabhants. They are situated between St. Lucia and St. Nicholas,
and there is no danger in sailing around or between them, half a mile
from the shore.

The island of St. Nicholas, from its peculiar shape, affords good
and safe anchorage in several places. On the south-west concave side
of its western projection is Tarrafal Bay, and on the south-east con-
cave side of the same is St. George's Bay. On the southern side of
its eastern extension is Fresh-water Bay. There is also another bay
on its north-western extremity called North-west Bay. The best and
safest anchorage, however, is on the south-west and south-east sides
of the island, in from ten to five fathoms of water, sand and coral bot-
tom. Here refreshments may be had in abundance, and generally at a
moderate price, but not on as favourable terms as they can be obtained
at St. Antonio. It is difficult to procure water near the shore, but if a
ship is in distress, it can be brought to the beach by the inhabitants ou
jackasses.

We touched at the south-east side of this island, where I landed, and
after communicating with the proper authorities, I visited the interior
and made some cursor)' observations on the physical and moral con-
dition of the country ; the result of which was, that this island, were it
in the possession of more industrious people, better governed, and prop-
erly cultivated by cheerful, active, and healthy freemen^ instead of
wretched, desponding, oppressed slates., would become highly pro-
ductive of such staple articles as are adapted to its soil and climate,
and a lucrative commerce would soon be the consequence. But as it
is at present, and as it is long likely to be, the objects of industry are
limited by the absolute wants of the islanders, producing just sufficient
for their own consumption, and no more.

The poor slaves are pining for freedom, and seize every opportimity

260 ST. XICIIOLAS. k [1828.

of escaping on board the shipping wliich nre contiiiudlly stepping at
the ishuid. To guard against this loss ol' propcrti/^ the Klrictcat pre-
t-autions are adopted by the planters, who do not allow the inhabitants
the use ol' boats ot" any description, whi^li arrangement gives to the
island the appcaranec ol" a deserted spot in the ocean.

As there is scarcely any thing exported from this island excepting
goat-skins and archilla-weed, its sources of revenue are, ot* course,
extremely limited. "NVhat little money does enter is received either from
ship-masters lor refreshments, or from Portugal in payment for the
archilla-weed, or to defray the current expenses of the establishment.
The latter item, however, cannot amount to a very considerable sum,
if all are paid in proportion to the governor's salary, which he as.sured
me was only four hundred dollars a year.

In this island nature has not been niggardly of her favours. With
proper cultivation its soil will produce, in great abundance, cotton,
indigo, sugar, coflce, tamarinds, cocoanuts, bananas, plantains, cassavi,
maize, pine-apples, figs, lemons, oranges, papaw, custard-apples, grmva,
gTapes, dates, &c. The sugar-cane is cqtial to that of the VVest Indies,
and I have tasted and examined the sugar which they manufacture for
their own use, and found it excellent. The indigo plant thrives per-
fectly well, and makes die of the first-rate quality, wdlh which they die
their cotton, and weave it into shawls for the women. I have drunk
their coffee, sweetened with their own sugar, and found it to be equal
to that of St. Domingo. They barely raise enough for home consump-
tion ; but with common skill and industry, the now un(.'ullivatcd valleys
might be covered with cotton shrul)s and cofice-trces.

I saw many large tamarind-trees growing out of the fissures and
crevices of almost naked rocks ; and frequently beheld the cocoanur,
banana, plantain, and papaw-tree, growing on the edge of springs
and in almost barren ground, where there was not three inches of soil.
Nourished principally by water, they only want a foothold to support
them, and they are certain to flourish. I^Iost of these springs that I
passed were surrounded by fe;n,ilGs, nearly as naked as was the fair
Musidora wlien seen by her Damon, as " to the ilood she rush'd."

There is Ihtle or nothing like cultivation seen anywhere, excepting
in the glens or ravines which are watered by rills from the mountains.
In the upper and wider parts of the valleys I met with plantations of
Indian corn, cassavi, sugar-cane, and pine-apples. Cotton and indigo
were also planted in some spots, but being neglected, a few plants
cnly were to be seen, which run wild. On the sides of brooks and
springs grow luxuriantly the fig, lemon, orange, papaw, custard-apple^
guava, prickly-pear, and a few grape vines, besides the date, which .
grows in abundance in the i5andy places. Here cocoanut-trees bear
ripe fruit at the elevation of three hundred feet above the surface of
the sea. On some spots of the elevated grassy hills, roots and vege-
tables are cultivated with great success. I was also informed that
wheat succeeded very well when sown in the dry plains in the rainy
season, as does rice in the lowest and wettest grounds. But as these
islands are supplied w ith corn from America in return for salt and
mules, the indolent inhabitants pay but little attention to its cultivation.

■July.] ■ ST. NICHOTAS. 3@l

During m;,* intciior excursion I strolled ijito the ver)' heart of the
country, where I saw the wretched negroes watching the plantations
of their unfeeling oppressors, and tending a few cows and sheep.
They received me with u civility bordering on servility, and in return
I bought some fruit and vegetables of them, with part of their poultry
and all the eggs they had to dispose of. Then- huts arc of very simple
construction, and still more simply furnished. The females of the
household have a recess for their use, enclosed with the branches of
the date-tree. Their bedsteads are con.structed by driving four up-
right stakes imo the clay lloor, to which are attached transverse sticks
for the bottom, the whole covered with a mat or blanket. A large
wooden box also serves the double purpose of a table and couch.
The rest of the furniture consists of a wooden mortar to pound their
Indian corn, a clay pot to boil it in, some gourds for holding milk and
water, and a few wooden spoons. This is a complete inventory of
their domestic utensils.

Every domicil, however, can boast of at least two musical instru-
ments, a fact that would be quoted as a stroivg symptom of luxury in
the family of a New-England farmer. Music, it seems, can alleviate
even the pan<js caused by the galling fetters of slavery. The discordant
clankino- of tlieir chains can be occasionally lost in the animating- roll
of the " doubling drum," accompanied by the lively tones of the guitar.
Each of these instruments i.s found in the hut of every slave. The
former is made of a hollow log, covered with a kind of parchment of
their own make ; and tlie latter is a rude sort of lyre with only three
strings. But rude as these instruments are. they possess the magical
power of charming the sable hearer into a total forgetfulness of his
degradation and his sorrows. In dancing to their animating sounds
he forgets that he is a slave, and is happier far than the heartless op-
pressor who lives in idleness by the sweat of the negro's face. It is
thus that " Heaven tempers the wind to the shorn lamb," and pom's
consolation into the bitterest cup of human misery.

From the httle opportunity I had of making observations and inqui-
ries, 1 should infer that the island of St. Nicholas is not over-abundantly
supplied with birds, either as to species or number.s. We saw several
large birds of prey, one of which was a fishing eagle common to all
these islands ; another w^as ash-coloured, of a large size, seen only on
shore ; and a third, whicli I shot on shore, nearly resembled the spar-
row-hawk. The small birds, of which I shot specimens, were the
following : a fine kingfisher, a common quail, a sparrov/ nearly resem-
bling the American, a bird similar to the English lark, and a small
' singing-bird of unknown species. I also saw guinea-fowl, but they
were too wild to be shot.

The waters in the bays on every side of this island abound M'ith
fish, which may be cauglit with seines in almost " miraculous draughts."
I saw nine species of fish that are common at this island, viz. black-
fish, gray mullet, skipjacks, bonatoes, porgy, the young white shark,
a kind of ro<-k cod, and a fish that is not common in this country, of a
large size, between the drum-fish and the streaked bass. Alth.ough the
inhabitants are the most rigid Catholics, they seem to make fish a very

262 CAPE VERDS— SAL. [1828..

sinall portion of their general food. AVe caught an immense number ;
and, according to custom, received a broad hint to send the governor a
mess, which we did, with many apologies for our ignorance of the
etiquette proper on sucli occasions.

July 23r/. — Wo left St. Nicholas on AVcdnesday evening, tlie 23d
of July, at seven, P. M., with a fine breeze from norih-by-east, and on
the following morning, at four o'clock, were close in wiih the island
of Sal, and anchored in Mordeira Bay, in six fathoms water, sandy bot-
tom. This in my opinion is the best harbour among the whole group
of the Cape Verd Islands. The anchorage is in lat. 16^' 42' north,
long. 22° 54' west.

The island of Sal, which lies about twenty leagues eastward of St.
IVicholas, derives its name from its great number of salt-ponds, and
the vast quantity of salt that is manufactured from their waters, which
are continually replenished from the rising of the sea. 'I'liis water,
when properly exposed to the sun, crystallizes into a beautiful salt,
Mhich is the staple commodity of the island. If the manufacture were
properly attended to, this single island would be sufficient to supply
all the United States for a century to come.

This island is a little more than forty nules in circumference, and
lies about three hundred miles from the coast of Africa. It is of an
oblong shape, extending north and south, something less than twenty
miles in length, and perhaps eight or ten in breadth. It forms the
north-east point of the semicircular range before mentioned, and be-
longs to the governor of Bonavista, a wealthy Portuguese, named Don
Martinez, who has been at vast expense in cutting a road through the
mountain, from the salt-pans on the east side of the island, to the bay
or harbour of Mordeira on the west side, where ships may lie in per-
fect safety, and take on board their cargoes of salt, which is of the
best quality produced among these islands.

The island is high and bold ; rising in two peaks, which in clear
■weather may be seen from a ship's deck at the distance of fifteen
leagues. The easternmost peak is the highest, and the land between
them being low, they appear like two separate islands when seen at a
distance from the north or south. On approaching it nearer we find
that the irregularity of its shores produces many promontories, points,
bays, &c., among which are the following : North Point, which ex-
presses its appropriate location ; Martinez Point, a few miles south-
east of the former; fifteen miles farther south is East Point; the
south-eastern extremity of the island is called Wreck Point, near which
the Erne was wrecked in 1819; a few miles farther west is South
Point ; farther north, on the western side, is Turtle Point ; then comes
Mordeira Bay, where we lay at anchor ; north of this is a promontory
called the Lion's Head, off which lies Bird Island ; still farther north
is Palmira Point and Bay ; on the north-west is Manuel Point ; and
Horn Point projects about half-way between the latter and North Point,
** the place of beginning."

July 2ith, — At 6 o'clock in the morning, I started on an excursion
over the mountain, in search of the agent to whom all apphcations
must be made for purchasing salt. As respects business, however, my

July.] CAPE VERBS— SAL— BONA VISTA. 2^

journey was fruitless, as the man had gone to Bonavista, an island
farther south. But I did not regret the ride, as it afforded me an op-
portunity of becoming better acquainted with the interior of this barren
country, and the following is the result of my observations : —

Towards the seashore the island presents the most forbidding;
aspect, every feature bearing the impress of hopeless sterility. Here
some mighty convulsion of nature has piled matter upon matter, in
what maybe termed a " regular confusion." The two prominent forms
are generally those of platforms, or table-lands, which are perpendicu-
lar as a wall on one side, and level with the neighbouring land on the
other ; with series of perfectly conical hillocks, diminishing in size by
regular gradations. Over the interior of the island are scattered vast
irregular masses, forming shapeless mountains, and long serrated or in-
dented outlines. The whole of the elevated grounds which I passed over
are covered with loose blocks of stone, basalt, lava, and other volcanic
productions ; and the beds of the numerous torrents, which were now
entirely dry, exhibited a covering of black basaltic sand. I have there-
fore no doubt that this island, like all the rest on the western coast of
Africa, is of a submarine volcanic origin, and mostly of the basaltic
formation. The only animals I saw were a few goats, asses, and
ponies.

The only vegetation which this island produces consists of about a
dozen kinds of shrubs, and a few melancholy date-trees, useful only
for their long branches, as their fruit never comes to perfection. The
mimosa, or sensitive-plant is also found here, scattered thinly about in
certain places, apparently " out of its element." The few vegetables
that I met with were completely burnt up for die want of moisture ;.
as, with the exception of a spring in the centre of the island, not a
drop of fresh water cheered my eye or cooled my lips, during this
steril and fruitless excursion. 1 was glad to return to the Antarctic,
and get under way for Bonavista, which we did at 1, P.M., with a
fine breeze from north-east, and fair weather.

At half-past 4, P. M., we came to anchor in English Road, or Bona-
vista harbour, in three fathoms of water, mud and clay bottom. This
anchorage is in latitude 16^ 10' north, long. 22° 53' west.

254 CAPE VERDS— BONAVISTA. [1828.

CHAPTER II.

Island of Bonaviita — Town and Hurbour — Interview with the Governor — The
Art of Begging illustrated — View of the Island — Natural Productions — Sail-
ing Directions — The Leton Rocks — Island of Mayo — St. Jago, or Santiago —
Port Praya — Breakfast with the Captain-general — A walk with the Ladies — A
Peep at the Country — View the Fortifications — Military Establishment — A
Dinner-party — Bay and Anchorage — Volcano of Fogo, or Fuego — Island of
Brava — Imaginary Dangers.

In approaching the island of Bonavista, or Buena-vista, it presents
a beautiful appearance to the eye of the tasteful and scientific voyagcur ;
and to this circumstance it owes its imposing appellation. It lies about
nine leagues south of Sal, and a little more than seventy west from the
coast of Africa. Its form is an irregular pentangular figure, with a
diameter of about twenty miles. The surface of this island is low to-
wards the sea, but the ijiterior is considerably elevated and hilly, par-
ticularly towards its north-east extremity, where there is a lofty emi-
nence, which, from its conical and truncated shape, appears to have
once been a volcano. Towards the south-west there is another hill
still more elevated, to the westward of which the land is quite high.
The island is known at a distance by several white banks on its north
side, where the shore is bold, and where a rapid river discharges itself
into the sea.

Tlie harbour in which we anchored is on the west side of the island,
and is formed by a small island which shelters the northern extremity
of the English Road or bay. The anchorage is between this small
island and the mainland of Bonavista, a little south of the town or
village. In going in to tiie anchorage we doubled close round the
south point of Small Island, within about two cables' length from the
shore, leaving a single rock to the south of the vessel, at the distance
of about two hundred fathoms. There is only eight feet of water on
this rock at low tide: asd the sea breaks on it in rough weather. There
is a flag-staff on Small Island, which we brought to bear north-north-
west, and v.ere then within the simken rock before mentioned. Here
we had the choice of anchorage in from seven to four fathoms of water ;
but as it is best to be as near the east side of the island and the town
as possible, we anchored in three fathoms, as before stated. Vessels
should never attempt to pass on the north side of Small Island, as
there is a sand-spit runs from it to the main island, in a due east
direction.

The town, which has a sandy foundation, consists of two rows of
hovels, constructed of stone and mud. These are thatched with
branches of the date-tree and a long coarse grass, and are chiefly in-
habited bv negroes, who have little about them tliat indicates comfort
or economy. This description, however, does not iiiclude eight or ten

July.] BOXAVISTA. 265

houses, of a better sort, belonging to the governor and hisjsubordinate
officers. Those are plastered and whitewashed, and present a decent
cheerful appearance. There is also an edifice of a barn-like appear-
ance, without spire or ornament, which they call a church. The only
indications of domestic trade are two or three mean-looking shops,
containing an " unassorted assortment*' of miscellaneous articles,
among which I observed various kinds of American cotton goods, and
English earthenv.are, together with hats, shoes, &c. of Portuguese
iabric.

It was 5, P. M., when I went on shore, and u. negro sentinel con-
ducted me to the governor's residence. I foimd his excellency at din-
ner with a family circle, consisting of his wile, two daughters, several
fat monks, and two or three officers. The honour of my visit was
totally unexpected, as appeared by the ladies (brunettes of the half-
easte) being in their dishahiUcs^ and making a precipitate retreat from
my presence. Whether each fair one's "tunic" was of "the finest
lawn," I had no opportunity of asceilaining ; but I did ascertain that
iheir lovely limbs were unrestrained by any thing but clicmisc and pet-
ticoat ; those are temptations, however, which seamen must learn to
encounter v-ith cool indiflerence, or they would be in hot water too
often. I made some commonplace apology for my abrupt intrusion,
&s the ladies retreated in evident confusion ; but they soon returned,
richly attired, and performed the rites of hospitality with an ease, grace,
and dignity of deportment that quite charmed mc.

Bis excellency, who is no other than the wealthy Portuguese alluded
to in the last chapter, Don Martinez, proprietor of the island of 8al
and a considerable part of Bonavista, speaks very good English, and
■was very solicitous to render my situation agreeable. On learning my
business, he requested that I would aliov/ him the pleasure of procur-
ing the salt for m^, at the same time taking no little pains to convince
me that he was influenced by no interested motives in thus tendering
liis services. To these asseverations I of cotirso made the requisite
responses, and ordered one thousand bushels of salt. This order tlie
governor handed over to the captain of the port, who wears the naval
uniform of Portugal, and is one of the most insinuating and persever-
ing beggars I ever met with. As a specimen of the manner in which
he pursues his vocation take the following ; for I understand he never
varies in the process :

Knowing the weak side of Jonathan, he commences his attack by
a full volley of encomiums on the American nation, and especially on
the liberality of her citizens, and most particularly on the gentlemanly
deportment and noble generosity of her ship-masters. Before die be-
siei{ed can have time to recover from the shock of this sudden and un-
expected assault, the archery of black laughing eyes are brought to the
charge, and pour a shower of poisoned darts into the very heart of the
fortress. In plain English, his wife desired him to ask the generous
captain if he conld sell her daughters some butter, as they were ex-
tremely fund of American butler, and pr« iVrred it to lliat of every other
nation. To be sure, he had rebuked his briter half for makinn such a
proposition, as Anjcrican officers would be highly olfcnded ;;t the bare

266 CAPE VERDS. [1828.

idea of selling any thing to a lady^ they being in the habit of making
them presents or compliments.

If the citadel docs not yet surrender, preparations are made to carry
it by storm, and for tliis purpose a reinforcement of infantry assail it
with small-arms on several sides at once. Ilis daughter Louisa is very
partial to American cider; Isabella prefers porter; while Maria, the
youngest, a bewitching little gipsy of sixteen, would give any thing
in the world for some American cheese and fruit ; but their mother
thought that no other part of the world produced such excellent flour
as the United States. If the garrison still hold out, such flattering
terms of accommodation are proposed as generally throw them off
their guard ; like the following :

" Will you have the goodness to walk up to the house with me,
captain, and see my daughters I they perform divinely on the guitar,
and will be proud to amuse you this evening by playing and singing."

This ruse de guerre generally succeeds. The confiding garrison
are drawn into an ambush, and compelled to surrender at discretion.
Alas ! that beauty should bait the hooks of avarice and cupidity. The
holiest sentiment of our nature is thus made a vassal to the meanest.

In this place it may be proper to remark, that all the gentlemen here
have obtained a sufficient knowledge of the English language to hold
a sprightly conversation ; and, indeed, there is scarcely a person of
any respectability in the whole town who does not speak enough of this
language for the purposes of bartering and begging.

After taking my leave of the governor and his family, I took a stroll
through the town or village, which is built on a sandy plain at the east
side of the bay. I soon learned that no refreshments could be had at
this place, nor does the island ever furnish any except they are first
brought from the other islands in small drogers, for which they charge
a high price. It is likewise diflicult to obtain fresh water here, ex-
cepting in small quantities, and that of a brackish flavour. No fuel
suitable for nautical use can be had here at any price. Goats' fleshy
milk, turtle, and fish are the principal food of the inhabitants, but they
have none to spare.

The productions of Bonavista are salt, indigo, and cotton : the first
is produced in great abundance on the north-west and eastern parts of
the island in natural pans or ponds, w'here it crystallizes' in the sun.
These receptacles for sea-water are in the low valleys near the sea-
shore, and in the whole process nature receives very little aid from the
hand of art. This salt, however, is not equal in quantity or quality to
that which is produced on the island of Sal, a cargo of which will cost
about six cents a bushel on board, while here at Bonavista it costs about
six and a quarter cents ; and in taking a small quantity, it comes some-
what higher. The inhabitants convey it to the vessel by means of asses,
which travel in troops of fifteen each, every troop being under the charge
of a negro.

The indigo, which grows without being cultivated, is gathered by
the inhabitants ; they have not the art of separating the die, and of
making what is called the blue-stone in the southern section of the
United States, but they satisfy themselves with bruising the green

July.] BONAVISTA. 267

leaves in a wooden mortar. They next make it into a kind of paste,
of which they form round balls that are dried for use. 'I'his is not the
process of preparing this beautiful die-stuft' in our country. Here, the
leaves of the plant are laid in vats full of water, and left to ferment.
The liquor is then drawn off into another vat, and after having been
well stirred up, it is drawn off, and what remains at the bottom is ex-
posed to the air until it is thoroughly dry, when it is fit for use.

Though the cotton-tree grows naturally on the island of Bonavista,
yet its culture is greatly neglected by the natives : they never think of
collecting it till some vessel arrives to purchase it. But were it prop-
erly attended to, 1 believe they could every year furnish a cargo lor a
large ship ; and I have been told that in some years, when it has failed
in the other islands, it has been produced in great abundance in>
Bonavista.

But this island will never be distinguished for agricultural fecundity.
The soil for the most part is sandy, barren, and uncultivated ; and
though enjoying the genial influence of a tropical sun, it must feel the
more effective influence of industry and enterprise before it becomes
productive. The sweat which falls from the brow of slavery scalds
and blights the verdure which the dew-drops of heaven have brought
into existence.

The surface of the island is very uneven, comprising alternate hills
and valleys ; and at the sea-board it has low points running into the
sea. The southern and eastern part of this island, in particular, is
very low, and the shore is lined with reefs of coral, some of which lie
three miles from the island to the eastward ; and oftentimes in the
night, when the weather is hazy, a ship might be on the reef before
the land can be seen, on account of its being so very low on that side
of the island. In 1831 my worthy friend Captain Weatherby, of Liv-
erpool, lost a fme ship on the reef which lies ofl' the east end of this
island. He had his two daughters with him at the time. Her
cargo was worth two hundred thousand dollars, destined for the Isle
of France ; but it was all lost.

Ships bound to the south, and passing to the eastward of Bonavista
in the night, should never approach the island nearer than twenty
miles, as the currents, which set about west, frequently run, after a
fresh trade, at the rate of two miles an hour. In the month of July I
have known the current to set in a west direction, between the Isle of
Alayo and Bonavista, at the rate of two and a half miles an hour. I
would therefore advise ship-masters, in all cases, to pass to the west-
ward of the islands of Sal, Bonavista, Mayo, and the Leion Rocks, of
which I shall speak presently.

A dangerous reef likewise lies off the western extremity of Bona-
vista, about three miles from the shore, covered by four feet of water.
The sea breaks very heavy on the shoal part of this reef in rugged
■weather. There is a good passage, however, between the reef and
the island, with six fathoms of water, over a white coral bottom, which
has a frightful appearance to such navigators as are not acquainted
with coral reefs. Large ships, however, should always pass outside
of the reef, giving the breakers a berth of two hundred fathoms, whea

268 C^APE VERDS. [1828.

they will have ten fatiioms of water, and a clear passage to the anchor-
age of Bonavif^la, giving tlie reef that lies off tlic beach at Old Town a
berth of one cable's length.

Tfie Cape Verd Islands, w ith respect to climate and vegetation, are
more like lands of the temperate than those of the tropical zones, al-
though they are situated in the latter nearly in the middle of the north-
ern equinoctial belt. In the African countr\^ of iScnegambia, which lies
opposite, in the same latitude, the rains and the hottest seasons arrive
together, and continue during the months of May, June, and July : but
limong tiiese ialands the rains do not set in until the middle of August,
and continue, with fev,' intermissions, until January.

When we arrived at Bonavi.sta the dry season had commenced about
six months ; and, as I have aheady slated, the hot winds from Africa,
in crossing the water to the islands, become so highly charged with
humidity that the least diminution of temperature causes an abundance
of vapours to be deposited on the islands. It is this moisture that
reduces the mean temperature at Bonavista so much below tliat on the
African coast. The thermometer on board the Antarctic, at twelve,
M., stood at 74^, and in Bonavista town it stood at 89^, on account
of the wind blowing fresh from east-north-east.

At Goree, a small island of Africa, near Cape Verd, subject to
the French, the thermometer ranges between 88° and iOO^ from May
till November; while at Senegal it is at 113°, and sometimes 131°.
During the whole year, the sun at midday is insupportable.

Ship-masters should be careful while lying at Bonavista to prevent
their crews going on shore or sleeping on deck in the months of May,
June, and July, as they are very liable to take the fever that is common
amon<T these islands at this season of the 3'ear. Ofllcers also should
make it a point of duty to see that their men avoid getting wet, as far
as practicable, either from fresh or salt water, as such exposures are
very apt to bring on the fever and ague.

July 2Qth. — Having taken in our salt and arranged my business with
Don Zilartinez, v.ithout forgetting my friend the captain, together with
his pretty wife and daughters, the word was given, " All hands, un-
moor !" This was on Saturday, the 26th, at nine o'clock, A. M., when
we got under way with a fine breeze from north-north-east, and pleas-
ant weather. We passed between the reef before mentioned and the
west point of the island, with not less than six fathoms of water, and
steered for tlie east point of St. Jago Island, with ilie intention of sight-
ing the Leton Rocks.

./^//y 27th. — At half-past twelve, P. M., on Sundaj', we passed within
a cable's length of that dangerous reef, on the western .side of it, in ten
fathoms of water, coral bottom. This reef is of an oblong shape, ex-
tending from north-north-east to south-south-west, about one hundred
and fifty fathoms in lengili and nearly half that in breadth. On the
.shoalest part of this reef the water is not more than five or six feet in
depth, and it is very dangerous to approach in the night or in a thick
atmosphere, as the sea does not break upon it except in rough weather.
When we passed it, there was scarcely a roller on the shoalest part,
ahhouoh we had a fine breeze from north-north-east. But the coral

July.] LKTON ROCKS— ST. JAGO. 269

bottom on tlie reef can be seen hall' a mile from the mast-head in clear
weather, if it be not in the direction of the sun.

The true situation of this reef is m latitude 15° 49' N., long. ^3° 15'
W. ; variation per azimuth 17° 35' westerly ; and the current, live miles
to the south of the rocks, was setting west-by-south, at tlie rate of
eighteen miles in twenty-four hours. On passing these rocks at an-
other time, I have found the current setting equally as strong in an
east-north-east direction. It is therefore not surprising that the most
skilful and cautious navigators are sometimes deceived by these rapid
and incalculable changes of the current ; or that Captain Swanton, late
commander of the honourable East India Company's ship Lady Bur-
gess, sliould run his vessel upon these rocks, which happened on the
19th of April, in the year 1806, at two o'clock, A. M., at which season
of the year the currents are setting here, from eighteen to twenty-four
miles, east-north-east.

It has been stated that there is another reej] lying to the nortJiward
of the Leton Rocks about five miles ; but as I passed over the very
spot in which it is said to be without seeing any appearance of shoal
water, I am positive that there is no other danger near Bonavista and
»St. Jago than the reef of the Leton Rocks, which is sufficient of itself
to keep every cautious mariner on his guard in passing it, as the force
and direction of the currents are not to be depended on among these
islands.

From Leton Rocks we steered sondi-by-west half-v/est, until near
the island of Mayo, when v.-e ran for the east end of St. Jago. Siiips
should not approach the north end of the island of •Mayo in the night,
imless they are certain of their situation, as there is a very dangerous
t.-oral reef lyino- north-north-east from the northern extremity of the
island, about three miles otf-shore. In passing this reef in 1829, 1 saw
the wreck of an English brig upon it. There is no other danger around
this island more than three hundred fathoms off-shore. The land is
pretty high at the centre, uneven, and fidl of hills. It has good an-
chorage on the south-west side, in what is called English Roads, in
irom five to ten fathoms of water, in front of tlie tov/n.

The shore to the eastward of the town of Mayo is steep, bluff, and
rocky ; but to the westward a low white sandy beach extends to what
is called Salt-pan's Point, from v.'liich a spit of sand and coral stretches
to the westward about two hundred fathoms. At a small distance fa-
ther off-shore there is a depth of fifty fathoms. Sliips should not an-
chor in more than ten fathoms in front of the town of Mayo, as the
bank runs off very steep from fifteen fathoms. The north point of this
island lies in latitude 15° 21' N., long. 23° 9' W.

At eight, P. M., we came to an anchor in Port Pray a, island of St.
Jago, in four fathoms of water, sandv bottom. This island lies about
seventy miles south-west-by-south I'rom Bonavista, and ninety south-
south-east from St. Nicholas. Its shape or figure on the charts re-
sembles that of an oyster, lying nearly in the position of north-west
and south-east, forty miles in length and about twenty in breadth. Port
Praya, on its south-eastern end, is in latitude 14^ 55' N., long. 23° 31'
W. Variation per aziinuih 16° 48' westerly.

270 CAPE VERDS. [1828.

St. Jago, or SanllajTo, h the largest, the best cultivated, and the most
fertile of tlie Cape Vcrd Islands. It abounds, however, with high,
barren mountains, whicli may be seen in clear weather at a consider-
able distance. Tlie soutli-east extremity of tliis island is a very long
low point, and presents that appearance in approaching it from the
north or south. Three or four miles to the westward of this point is a
bay, with a brown sandy bcacli ; and at lIjc liead of this bay are two
or three houses and a grove of date-trees. This bay must not be mis-
taken for that of Port Praya, as its eastern point is surrounded by rocks
extending two hundred fathoms into the sea, which does not always
break upon it.

We passed this bay, and kept along the coast to the westward
towards Port Praya, within one mile of the shore, in eight or ten fath-
oms of water, until the battery and flag-stafl' were plainly distinguished
on the west point of the harbour, off which the sea always breaks at
some distance. We then rounded the eastern point, within two cables'
length, in from six to eight fathoms of water, — in doing which, the
custom-house opened to view on the beach, and a grove of date-trees
in the valley. Immediately afterward the town and fort presented
themselves on the hill at the head of the bay. The eastern shore,
which should be kept close on board, is high bluff land, which has the
appearance of being parched and barren. We stood in for the town,
and chose our anchorage as before stated.

Juhj 28///. — On the following morning, which was Monday, the 28th,
I went on shore to wait on the captain-general of the island, whose
residence is at Port Praya, although Ribeira Grande, a town seven or
eight miles farther west, is the capital of St. Jago. On entering the
gateway of the town I was received by a negro, who conducted me to
the palace of his excellency, — for such it might be called, when com-
pared with the miserable hovels in its vicinity. Its external was white-
washed, which gave it a tolerably decent appearance.

After being formally announced by a ragged sentinel, I was led
up a ladder, into a large apartment, rough and unfinished. The raf-
ters and floor were just as the materials came from the sawpit, with-
out paint, or other decoration, excepting some rude prints of the
Virgin Mary, a few saints, &c. Here I found the general at break-
fast, with half a dozen monks wrapped in frieze, with figures and
countenances that indicated any thing but abstinence and penance.
The general's lady was also present, together with three other Portu-
guese females of no ordinary personal attractions. They all spoke
tolerably good Spanish, and in that language I was able to converse
with them.

As the Antarctic was the first American which had touched here
for some time, they had a thousand questions to ask respecting the
United States, and the manners, customs, Sec. of the people, especi-
ally the dtess and amusements of the American ladies. Having
gratified them in all these important particulars, and partaken of a cup
of coffee with the ladies, agreeably to the custom of the place, I took
a turn with them in the garden, which was more tastefully arranged
than any thing of the kind I had seen in any other island of the group.

July.] PORT PRAY A. 271

We returned from our walk just in time for me to attend the market,
where I intended to purchase the necessary fruit and vegetables. I
therefore took leave of my new friends, who would not suffer me to
depart until I had promised to dine with them, and repaired to the
market ; which proved to be quite destitute of such articles as I
wanted. At the suggestion of one of the islanders, however, I made
out a list of the productions I wished to purchase, and he engaged to
have them all ready at the landing by sundown.

Having now some time on my hands before dinner, I thought I
could not better dispose of it than in surveying the town, and the ad-
jacent country, in order to acquire a more accurate idea of their trade,
productions, &c.

The inhabitants of Praya are mostly negroes, "bond and free,"
amounting to about three thousand, of whom four hundred are " mili-
tia on duty, or soldiers, as they are called. There are not more than
forty whites in the town ; and all the officers, except half a dozen, are
mulattoes — even their chaplain is black. The population of the
whole island I understood to be about twelve thousand, generally
black, or of a mixed colour, a few of the better rank excepted. The
face of the country' is irregular and mountainous ; in some places
quite steril, but in general highly fertile and productive.

Cotton is the principal production of St. Jago ; but maize, sugar,
coffee, and the vine are cultivated with considerable success. Among
its fruits are oranges, citrons, lemons, limes, tamarinds, pomegranates,
pine-apples, cocoanuts, custard-apples, quinces, grapes, plantains, musk
and water-melons, guavas, papaMs, bananas, pumpkins, and other
tropical fruits. There are also some cedar-trees, with a pine which
produces tar. The animals are beeves, horses, asses, mules, deer,
goats, hogs, civet cats, and a species of monkeys, with a black face
and long tail. Of the feathered tribes, there are domestic fowls,
ducks, guinea-hens, paroquets, parrots, pigeons, turtle-doves, crab-
catchers, curlews ; and, in fact, birds of almost every description, some
of which are very valuable for their plumage.

But notwithstanding the abundance which is, or might be, raised on
this island, there is no commerce, and the price of refreshments for
ships which stop here for supplies is far too high to be termed reason-
able. For a bullock they charge from thirty to thirty-five dollars ;
for long-haired African sheep, four dollars apiece ; milcli goats,
three dollars ; hogs of a middling size, five dollars ; turkeys, one
dollar and a half; fowls, four dollars a dozen. Fruit and vegetables,
however, of all kinds, may be bought of the slaves at a moderate
price. The cistern which supplies the shipping with water i*s at the
bottom of the hill on which the castle is erected, and about a quarter
of a mile from the beach. The water, however, is not of the best
quality, being somewhat brackish to the taste, particularly in dry
seasons, at which times there is often a scarcity of provisions and all
the necessaries of life. Indeed, I was credibly informed that these
periods of famine are sometimes so severe that great numbers of the
poor wretched negro slaves perish for want." The governor derives
his chief profit from the sales of cattle to the ships which touch here,

'Z7'l ' CAPE VERDS. [1828,

in addition do a salary from ilie crown of two liundrcd dollars per
month. '

As 1 was crossing the parndc-ground, on my May to visit the Ibrti-
fications, I again encountered my fair friends, tlie ladies with whom I
had breakfasted, and wiih wliom I had promised to dine. On learning
my purpose, they politely otTered to accompany me, a proposition
which 1 eagerly accepted. We accordingly left the promenade to-
gether, and proceeded to what is here denominated a fort, but wliich
would become almost any other appellation equally well. iJehiud
the ruins of a parnpei-Mall, which once faced the bay, are planted
sixteen old iron cannon of dilVerent calibers. Besides this post, sev-
eral high platform points that surround the bay are also defended in
a similar manner, each of which is guarded bv a negro familv. Tliere
are no regular troops, neither European nor native, a few Portuguese
officers excepted : so that the defence of these works must depend
upon the militia, one of whom is seen standing as sentinel, at the
distance of every dozen yards, throughout the town. These wretched
men exactly correspond with the fortiiications, both in dress and
accoutrements. They are of all possible complexions that a painter's
imagination can conceive^ and if paraded according to shades, would
furnish a practical illustration of the following paradoxical couplet:

•' Falsehood and tnuh, opposed like bla<;k and while,
By unperceivcd gradations may unite."'

With respect to their arms, scarcely one musket in ten can boast the
convenient appendage of a lock, or at least one that will give fire ;
and about hall" their gun-barrels are actually lashed to their stocks by
cords, iliongs of leather, or wire ! And as regards personal appearance,
FalstafT's forces were a troop of dandies to them.

When vessels are about to sail, the governor requires them to notify
liim of the time, in order that lie may make signals for the dillerent
batteries to let tiiem pass. I could scarcely refrain from smiling
when his excellency hiformed me that this w'as a necessary ceremony,
and at the same time gravely assuring me that on my hoisting a Hag
at the fore, he would immediately give orders by signal for the batte-
ries not to detain my vessel. I applauded the arrangement, and ex-
pressed my acknowledgments for his politeness ; although I was sat-
isfied that with the crew of the Antarciic, I might land and spike every
gun in the place, and then go to sea at our leisure. The bay of Port
Pray a, however, jwsfeesses the greatest capabilities of being strongly
fortified against nautical assailants ; and by a simple wall, erected in
those places where the sides of the table-hill are not perpendicular,
the town might be secured from a coup de ?nain.

In the centre of the governor's citadel (the fortifications v»-e were
now examining) is the grave of a brave Engli.sh officer. Captain Eve-
leigh ; the spot being distinguished by a patch of pavement of round
pebbles. This highly meritorious naval officer commanded his Bri-
tannic majesty's ship Acteon, rated as a sloop-of-war, and was slain in
action with a French frigate.

April.] . PORT ERArA. • ^, 273

From the town we descended by a zigzag path, to a valley on the
left, which my fair cieerones called the Val de Trinidad,"over which
are scattered some clusters of date-trees, some mimosas, and other
spontaneous -vegetation. But the most successful attempts at cultiva-
tion are in the vicinity of the wells which supply the town and ship-
ping with water. In the upper part of this valley is a negro hut,
which is surrounded by a miserable plantation of cotton shrubs.
Water alone is wanting to render the soil of this valley fruitful ; and
a sufficient quantity for the purpose of irrigation might be obtamed by-
digging to a moderate depth. But even this trifling exertion is too
great an undertaking to be attempted by the present generation of in-
habitants, who must give place to a very different race of people
before this or any other species of improvement can be effected.
Thougli the mimosa, grows to a large size, even in the most arid spots
of the island, the inhabitants have never thought of planting them in
the towns, wliere they would not only be ornamental, but extremely
useful in moderating the excessive heat caused by the action of the
sun on the ferruginous sands.

Our pedestrian excursion extended about two miles from town, to
the upper part of the valley, where the gcwernor's country-house is
situated. The youngest of my fair companions informed me that this
was her father's property, and that it was to be her marriage dower.
I looked at the blushing maiden, and then at the premises. At the
foot of the precipice, near the house, is a very beautiful garden, con-
taining oranges, lemons, plantains, bananas, pine-apples, cocoanut-
trees, and many other kinds of excellent fruit, and a variety of vege-
tables.

The interior of the island, I was informed, is much more fertile
than those parts which are near the seashore ; the valleys being well
watered by little springs, some of which form small brooks and rills.
Near the centre of the island, some of the valleys are covered with
plantations of fruits and vegetables, and the hills are well clothed
with grass, afibrdiiig pasture for numerous herds of cattle and flocks
of sheep.

We returned to tlie governor's house about four o'clock, when we
found that dinner was Vv-aiting for us, and in a few minutes we were
ail seated at the table. The party v/as large, comprising seven ladies,
which imparted a polish and refinement to the conversation which
seldom exist m a company where they are not present. After dinner
the ladies entertained us with several songs, accompanied by the
piano-forte and guitar; and about seven o'clock I took my leave,
highly delighted with the recreations of the day, and the hospitality
of my kind entertainers. On reaching the beach, I found that the
refreshments I had ordered were all in readiness, and we lost no time
in having them conveyed on board.

The laeautiful bay of Port Praya is formed by two points which
bear from each other aljout cast and west, distant one mile and three-
quarters, with water of a very equal depth. A small black islanf?,
with a flat lop, is situated on the west side oT the bay, and is called
the Isle of Quails. From the south end of this island runs a rocky

374 * CAPE VERD8. [1828.

point, extending about a cable's length, in a south-west direction.
There are also some rocks, which put olF the west point of the bay^
to the distance of about one hundred fathoms, and in saihng from this
port in the night, it requires some care to avoid them, particularly
when the wind is light and well to the eastward.

With respect to the anchorage, it may be proper to observe, that
large ships should lay well out, and not more than two hundred
fathoms from the east shore, in order to ensure their weathering the
west point of the bay, in going to sea at night, should the wind be
light, and far to the eastward. The wind generally hangs in that
quarter during the months of November, December, and January ;
though it occasionally veers to the northward. The best situation for
ships to lie in is with the flag-stafl" in the fort at the town bearing
north-west ; Point Tamaros, or the west extremity of the bay, south-
west ; and the eastern point, east-south-east, olT the landing-place
one mile, and ofl* the east siiorc two cables' length. At this place the
winds are generally from the north-east quarter, and frequently the
weather is cloudy with squalls. It seldom rains in the dry season,
but a heavy haze mostly prevails. When the weather is settled, there
are often regular land and sea-breezes in the bay of Port Praya.
The sea-breeze sets in near noon, and ends about five in the after-
noon ; after which time the north-east wind sets in towards evening,
and continues during the night, and often until nine o'clock in the
morning.

There is always some surf on the beach at the head of the bay ;
therefore, in taking fresh water, boats should lay at their grapnels,
and raft the casks on shore, and alongside of the ship, taking care that
they are perfectly tight and well bunged. When the surf is high, there
is a good landing-place on a rocky point at the south-east side of the
head of the harbour, v/here a pathway will be seen leading to the
town. It is also necessary to be cautious in carrying sail in boats in
the bay, as the pufls of whid from the highlands are very sudden and

' As soon as the refreshments were safely stowed onboard, I hoisted
the requisite signal on the fore, and got under way at nine, P. M.,
Avhile the governor's pass-signal was as prompily displayed from the
citadel. We steered to the south-west, with a line breeze from north-
east, and fair weather. At ten, P. M., we saw the burning volcano of
Fogo, or Fuego, an island lying about thirty miles west-south-west of
St. Jago.

' This island is nearly circular, being about five leagues from east to
■west, and four leagcs from north to south. On its eastern part is a
high volcanic mountain, which is continually burning, at times ejecting
ilames and liquid sulphur. This island is very thinly inhabited ; but
it produces fruit, vegetables, cattle, sheep, and goats. Ships may
» obtain refreshments here from the town of Luz, which is built at the
head of a tolerable good harbour, on the west side of the island.

Nine leagues to the westward of Fuego is the small but fertile
island of Brava, which is about four leagues in circumference, and of
moderate elevation. It is said to be the most fruitful of all the Cape

Aug.] IMAGINARY DANGERS. 275

Verd Islands. Porto Fumo is on the east side of the island, and is a
good harbour for vessels under two hundred tons. It has a narrow
entrance, and if large ships visit this port, they will be obliged to
warp out, which may be done with great ease in the morning. But I
should recommend Port Furneo that lies on the south side of the
island, or Porto Faj en-dago, on tlie west side for ships to touch at for
refreshments, wood, water, &;c. as those places are both good har-
bours, and the best for obtaining fruit, vegetables, beef, pork, goats,
wood, and water of any in the whole group. Ships bound to this
island, need apprehend no danger in approaching it on either side,
more than one cable's length from the shore. The inhabitants are
industrious and obliging, and the ladies are sprightly, intelligent, and
modest ; and are particularly partial to Americans.

Before closing this chapter, and taking leave of the Cape Verd
Islands, I think it proper to remark that some charts are marked with
reefs that do not actually exist. It is my firm conviction that in passing
between these islands and the African coast, nothing need be feared from
the Porgas shoal, which is said to be about mid-chamiel. I am aware
that caution is the parent of security, and that it is best to err on the
safe side of the question. Butlhave examined the log-books of many
ships which have passed over the spot which this shoal was supposed
to occupy, and have become convinced that it does not exist.

The Bonetta shoal and rocks have also been reported as dangers
carefully to be avoided by ships passing between Alrica and the Cape
Verds. They are said to lie foriy-two leagues east-by-north from the
north end of Bonavista ; with shoal water on them, three miles in
length north-east and south-west, and about half that breadth. This
reef may also be put down as not existing, for I have crossed the sit-
uation assigned to it, and have examined the log-books of more than
twenty ships who have vainly endeavoured to sight it.

There is likewise said to be a reef of rocks lying ten leagues to the
north-east of Bonavista, of about the length of two cables, and of a
breadth of half that distance, nearly even with the surface of the water.-
As most of the ships running for the islands of Sal or Bonavista first
make them bearing from west to south-west, it is strange that the reef
just mentioned has never been seen by any of them ; and the fact that
it has not furnished just reasons to doubt hs existence.

We were now prepared to pursue our voyage to its ultimate point of
destination. jMorethan thirty days had elapsed since we left the port
of New-York, in which time we had crossed the wide Atlantic, and
sighted every island and rock in the Cape Yerd group, and landed on
the most of them. The reader must think it high time that I said
something concerning the merits of my vessel, in this her tirst essay
on the element of her adoption. 1 will do so before I proceed any
further ; and the only reason which induced me to defer it until the
present moment was to give the Antarctic a fair trial before I recorded
my testimony of her character. It is this : —

A better sea-boat never floated upon blue water, smooth or rough,
than the schooner Antarctic, She has equalled my wishes, and trans-
cended my expectations. I shall strive hard to render her name im*

276 * ISLAND OF SAXENBURGH. [1828.

mortal*; and if I am ever fortunate enough to re-enter the circle from
'whicli she derives her name, it shall go hard with me but the flying*
jib-boom of my vessel will point still nearer to the south pole than
northern pine has ever yet done. But more of this hereafter.

We continued steering to the south, with fine breezes from the north-
cast, untilTiiursday, the 31st of July, at which time we lost the north-
east trades, in lat. 9^ 50' north, long. 20^ 14' west ; variation per azi-
muth 16^ 11 ' westerly; the current setting w^st-south-west, thirteen
miles in twenty-four hours. From the last-mentioned dale to the
6ih of August M'e had the winds from south-west to south-south-east,
attended with much rain ; we ' then took the south-east trade-wind
from south-south-east, and fair weather, in lat. 1° 25' north, long. 21 -"
47' west; variation per azimuth, at 10, A. M., 14° 45' westerly: cur-
rent setting to the north-west-by-west, fourteen miles in twenty-four
hours.

August 7th. — On the following day, which was Thursday, we
crossed the equator, in long. 22° 54' west, with a fine breeze from
south-east to east-south-east, and fair weather. We were now just
about half-way between the coast of Africa and that of Brazil ; Sierra
Leone bearing north-east, and Pernambuco south-west. It may here
be proper to obsen'e, that ships bound round thfe Cape of Good Hope
should always pass ten or fifteen leagues to the westward of the Cape
A'erd Islands, if they need no refreshments ; and endeavour to leave
the north-east trades in between twenty-two and twenty-three degrees
of M'cst lons^itude. They should also endeavour to cross the equator
in the same longitude at all seasons of the year ; by attending to which
they will invariably shorten their passage, and have the weather more
regular.

August ISlJt. — After crossing the equator we continued standing to
the soudnvard, with a fine breeze from south-east to east-south-east,
and fair weather, until Monday, when we lost the south-east trade-wind
in lat. 28° 14' south, long. 29° 4' west. On the folloMing day we took
a light breeze from, west-south-west. On Wednesday, the 20th, we
were in lat. 30° 37' fouth ; and at 1, P. M., our lat. was 30° 40' south,
long. 28° 41' west, with the wind from west-south-M'est, and fair
weather.

I now determined to siglit the island of Saxenburgh, if such an
island really existed witliin any reasonable distance of the spot in
w hich it is said to be situated. The location which lias been assigned
to it is about half-way between the eastern coast of South America and
the Cape of Good Hope, in lat. 30° 43' south, and long. 19° 30' west.
We made a due east course, keeping two men at the mast-head, day
and night, until we were in long. 17° 21' west, without seeing any indi-
cations of land whatever. Durino- the time of our making this run of
/eleven degrees, we were not three miles from the parallel of 30° 40'»
excepting about eight hours ; when on Saturday, the 23d of August^
we were roused by the cheering cry from the mast-head of " Land, ho !
land, ho ! about six points off the starboard bow."

We now had the wind from west-by-south, whicli permitted us to
haul up for it ; but after running in that direction about four hours, at

Aug.] ISLAND OF SAXENBURGH. . 277

the rate of eight miles an hour, our tantalizing land took a sudden
start, and rose about ten degrees above the horizon. Convinced that
we could never come up to it in the ordinary course of navigation, we
now tacked and stood to the northward. We had likewise seen land
the day before, at 4, P. M., exactly in our wake, which appeared to be
about twenty miles distant.

August 24:th. — On Sunday we found ourselves in lat. 30° 41' south,
long. 15° 57' west, and feeling satisfied that any further search for Sax-
enburgh Island would be a useless waste of time, we shaped our
course for the south African coast, our first pomt of destination being
Saldanha Bay, a little south of the parallel on which we were now
running to the east. We crossed the meridian of Greenwich on the
28th, in latitude 30° 55' S.

The island of Saxenburgh is said to have been first seen by J. Lin-
deman, a Dutch navigator, who sailed from Monikendam, in 1670. On
the 23d of August, of that year, he discovered an island, as he sup-
posed, bearing north-east-by-north, distant about six leagues. He de-
scribed it very particularly, and accompanied his description with a
view taken at sundown of the same day. He represents it as having
a remarkable narrow peak, lilie a column, rising near the centre of the
island, and he named his new discovery Saxenburgh, in honour of a
German town of that name in the circle of Westphalia, twenty miles
north-west of Hanover.

Captain Galloway, in the American ship Fanny, bound to Canton,
in 1804, supposed that he saw this island at ten leagues' distance, and
states that it was in sight four hours from the mast-head, without
changing its appearance, which exhibited a peaked hill in the centre,
and a bluff at the west end, situated in the latitude of 30° 43', but two
decrees farther east than laid down in the chart.

This illusory island was again supposed to have been seen by Cap-
tain J. O. Head, in the ship True Briton, on a voyage to Calcutta, the
9th of March, 1816. The log-book of this ship states, that "At 8,
A. M., fresh breezes from north-by-west, and dark cloudy weather, saw
what we supposed to be an island, bearing east-south-east, distant six
leagues, forming a high pinnacle at the southern end, and gradually de-
creasmg in height to the north end. At 10, A. M., squally weather,
the land having still the same appearance as the clouds cleared off at
intervals. At noon our latitude by observation 30° 42' south, long. 21^
40' west, by mean of three chronometers ; the centre of the island
bearing east-by-north-half-north per compass, twenty-four miles. At
2, A. M., cloudy weather with rain, lost sight of the land, which we
concluded was the island of Saxenburgh, laid down by Captain Hors-
burgh as doubtful."

Captain James Horsburgh, F.R.S. who has had twenty-one years'
experience as shipmaster in the India trade, says that he has, at two dif-
ferent times, endeavoured to gain sight of this doubtful island, by cross-
ing the longitude of 19° west, at one time a few miles to the southward
of its latitude ; and at another time a little more northerly than the lati-
tude assigned to it, without seeing any indications of land.

From my own observations, and those of the many celebrated Eng-

278 <^*^PE OF GOOD HOPE. [1828.

lish navigators who have endeavoured to sight this island of Saxen-
burgh, 1 am of opinion that such an island does not exist. Clouds, ex-
actly like land in appearance, will sometimes remain stationary at the
horizon in this part of the ocean, for a greut length of time, and are
easily mistaken for distant islands. The natural conclusion is, that
those gentlemen who have reported to have seen the island of Saxen-
burgh must have been deceived by one of those stationary clouds
which are connnon in this parallel.

Sept. 4tlt. — We continued our easterly course, with strong winds
from west-north-west to south-south-east, and occasional foul M'eather,
until we made the African coast, in lat. 33° 18' soutli, and on this
morning, which was Thursday, at 6, A. M., we .anchored in Saldanha
Bay, m four fathoms of water, mud and clay bottom, entirely land-
locked, and sheltered from all winds.

CHAPTER III.

The southern extremity of Africa, since it became the seat of a
European colony, has formed an interesting subject for the investiga-
tion of travellers. It has been visited, and explored, and described, by
many of the most inquisitive and scientific geographers of the age ;
and yet, with the exception of Cape Town and its vicinity, this (country
appears to be very imperfectly known. Very little additional informa-
tion, however, can be expected from an humble individual like me, " who
am not meet to be called" a geographer, and who merely resorts to
foreign regions in the " beaten way" of business, — having an eye more
to the interests of my employers than to the physical aspect or moral
condition of the countries I visit. 1 shall, therefore, merely remind the
reader of such prominent historical facts as will enable him to accom-
pany me along the coast, from the Cape to the twenty-second^degree
of south latitude, without being compelled to exclaim, in the language
of Jerry Hawthorn, "I'm at fault — can't follow."

The southern promontory of Africa, commonly called the Cape of
Good Hope, is a peninsula, nearly ten leagues in length, composed of
a vast mass of mountains and rocky land, between the latitudes of 33^
53^ and 34^ 23' 8. It was discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, an emi-
nent Portuguese navigator, in 1487, who named it Cabo Tormentoso,
or the Stormy Cape, on account of the boisterous weather, the shat-
tered state of his ships, and the mutinous disposhion of his crew, — all
of which di/Hculties combined, compelled him to return to Portugal

Sept.] CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 279

without doubling the cape he had discovered. The king his master,
however, gave it the name of " Good Hope''' as lie had now good rea-^
son to hope that around this newly-discovered point of Africa lay the
long-wished-for passage to India. This hope was realized by the more
•successful Vasco de Gama, who ten years afterward doubled the cape,
and passed to the coast of Malabar.

After several unsuccessful attempts by the Portuguese to plant a
colony here, the Dutch finally succeeded, in 1650, under the direction
of Van Riebeck, who, having concluded a treaty with the natives, took
possession of the cape peninsula, and laid the foundation of the present
town, by erecting a fort of wood and earth, and some other necessary
buildings, which he called Kiev de Kou, — a defence against all. It
was in the genuine Dutch style, like the fortress which they erected
for the defence of their American colony Fort Amsterdam, now the city
of New- York.

Van Riebeck soon discovered the passion which the poor, weak, but
peaceful and inoffensive Hottentots had conceived for spirituous liquors,
iirst introduced among them by Christian navigators ; and being a gen-
tleman of some sagacity, he thought it good policy to turn their frailty
to his own advantage. Thus, by giving these simple people a few-
casks of brandy, a little tobacco, iron, and some paltry trinkets, he
obtained from them a part of their country, and many of their flocks
and herds. The price of an ox Avas then a piece of an iron hoop, and
the purchase of a M'hole district only cost a cask of brandy.

A hundred male members constituted the first colony of the cape :
these were afterward joined by an equal number of females from the
houses of industry in Holland, and also by a number of French refu-
gees, who were compelled to leave their native country in 1685, on
account of religious persecution. The population, from that period,'
rapidly increased ; the wild beasts were extirpated, or driven to the
interior, and the Dutch continued to extend their encroachments over
the richest districts of the country for more than a century.

In 1795, during the French revolution, the English took possession
of this colony, and retained it seven years ; but delivered it up to the
Batavian republic by the treaty of Amiens in 1802. In 1806 it was
again taken by the British, under Avliose dominion it still remains.

This extensive colony is bounded on the west and south by the ocean,
on the north by the River Koussie and the country of the Bosjesman
Hottentots, and on the east by the Great Fish River and the country
of a savage race called the Caffres, who have given the colonists more
trouble than all other obstacles combined. The settlement comprises
an area of more than one hundred and twenty-eight thousand square
miles, the greater part of which is covered with naked mountains, be-
tween the sloping declivities of which are extensive plains, destitute of
running water, called Karroos. Tliese plains, however, are not wholly
deserts, as has been represented by inaccurate travellers ; but are at
certain seasons of tlie year clothed with verdure, and covered with
flowers of beautiful tints and delightful fragrance.

The north end of tlie promontory forms Table Bay, on the south
shore of which stands C'ape Town, at the foot of Table Mountain, the

■m

280 SALDANHA BAY. [1828.

latter presenting a bold and almost perpendicular front, rh\ng three
thousand five hundred and eighty feet above the level of the bay. On
the west is the Lion's Mountain, so called from its bcRring some resem-
blance to the shape of that animal ; and on the cast is the Devil's Herg.
The majestic appearance of these heights, particularly that of Table
JMomitain, excites the admiration of every voy;iger who enters the bay.
The town stands on a sloping hill, at the south-west corner of the bay,
and is a regular, neatly-built place, and well supplied with water by a
plentiful stream which issues from the Table Mountain. It contains
about twelve hundred dwelling-houses, which are inhabited by a popu-
lation of eighteen thousand five hundred persons, ten thousand of whom
are blacks.

The principal rivers on the west coast of this colony are the Ele-
phant and the Berg or Mountain River : the former runs in a nonherly
direction along the foot of the western chain of mountains, and falls
into the Atlantic in latitude 31° 30' S. : the Berg or Mountain River
has its source in the mountains which enclose the Vale of Drakenstein,
and discharges itself into St. Helen's Bay. The principal bavs on this
coast are Table Bay, False Bay, St. Helen's Bay, and Salti^ha Bay,
where we now lay at anchor.

The entrance to this fine commodious harbour, which is througli
a ridge of granite hills, is not quite three miles broad. Its north point
is in latitude 33° 3' S., long. 17° 49' E., a httle m.ore than seventy-five
miles north of the southern extremity of the cape. This bay is about
fifteen miles in length, in the direction of north and south, and aflbrds
at all seasons very excellent shelter and anchorage. Its northern arm
is called Hoetjes Bay, on the north side of which there is good anchor-
age for ships of any size. There js also deep water on the west side
of it, close to a granite pier formed by nature, where ships may lie in
perfect safety in all seasons of the year ; and if necessary they may
heave-down alongside of this pier without any risk. The only disad-
vantage in the northern arm of the bay is the scarcity of fresh water,
which might be easily remedied by digging a few wells of moderate
depth, from which fresh water could be obtained in any quantity, and
of an excellent quality. The southern arm of Saldanha Bay, of whicli
I shall spfeak presently, furnishes good fresh water from a spring,
which, if cleared and enlarged, would supply a fleet with this nece,ssary
article in a very short time.

Fn entering this well-protected bay, attention should be paid to the
following circumstances and localities : — On the north side of the en-
trance is a small island, called Mallagassen ; and on the south side is
another, in a bend of the land, near the shore, called Jutten. Two
miles eastward of the first-mentioned island is a third, called Maseus,
Each of these islands has a reef, which puts off from its shore about a
cable's length. As all three of them are low, and can be seen but
a short distance, accuracy in the vessel's latitude is very requisite.
The entrance is nearly three miles broad, and clear of dangers one
cable's length from either of the islands first mentioned, between which
ii is necessary to pass. But the third island, Maseus, may be passed
on ehher side at ihe distance of forty fathoms, though the widest

Sept.] . SALDANHA BAY— ST. HELEN'S BAY. 281

passage, and the best for strangers, is on the south of it. We car-
ried in from fifteen to ten fathoms of water, and chose our anchorage
in four.

Ships going into this bay with the intention of anchoring in its south-
em arm must keep the south shore close on board ; and after passing
the inner point of the bay, haul round immediately to the south, and
anchor in front of Riot Bay, in five or six fathoms of water, about half
a mile from the shore, on the west side of the harbour. Here vessels
may lie in perfect safety, sheltered from all winds ; and if in want of
fresh water, the casks may be rafted up the lagoon, on the flood-tixle,
and filled on tlie east side from the spring before mentioned, which is
about half a mile below the guard-house, or flag-staff. When the casks
are filled, they can be rafted down to the ship in a short time by taking
advantage of the ebb-tide. Firewood, however, is very scarce on the
banks of the bay, but it can be purchased at a low rate of the neigh-
bouring farmers, who will bring it to the ship.

At the entrance of th^ lagoon on the south side of Saldanha Bay are
two small islands ; within which, about two miles on the w^est side, is
the East India Company's post ; and about one mile farther up, on
the east side, is the president's quarters. Here there is generally a
justice of the peace and a small company of regular troops. Between
this place and Cape Town there is a regular intercourse, and a mail,
which arrives at each place tv/ice a week.

Refreshments of \'arious kinds may likewise be purchased of the
farmers, who cultivate the soil on the east side of the bay, — rearing
cattle, horses, sheep, and hogs for the market at Cape Town. Fruits
and vegetables may be had in abundan^ce at a very moderate price, and
at a short notice. A plenty of excellent fish may be caught in almost
any part of the bay, either with a seine or a hook and Ime. In fact,,
this is an excellent place for ships that require repairs, repose, or
refreshments.

In running for Saldanha Bay in the night, or in thick weather, care
should be taken not to fall in with the land to the north of Baven's
Point, which is the north point of the bay ; as there are many sunken
rocks between this and St. Helen's Bay, some of which run from three
to five miles to the westward, with bold water between them.

September \Qth. — After taking on board a sufficient quantity of fresh
water, of an excellent quality, with a fine stock of refreshments of all
kinds, we got under way on Wednesday, the 10th of September, and
steered to the north, with a fine breeze from south-south-east, and fair
weather, with the intention of examining the west coast of Africa, as
far as the tropic of Capricorn. On the following morning, at five, A. M.,
we were close in with St. Martin's Point, which lies in latitude 32° 42'
S., long. 17° 45' E. ; variation per azimuth at nine, A. M., 27° 4' W.
High water on full and change days at half-past two ; rise, seven feet.

St. Martin's Point projects from the coast in a north-west direction,
forming the west side of St. Helen's Bay, the northern point of which
is Cape Deseada. The distance between these two points is nine
leagues, and the bay is four leagues deep, nnining into the east and
south-east, with regular soundings, from twenty to four fathoms, as

283 BERG RIVER. [1828.

you approach the head of the bay, or south shore. Here a ship will
find good and sufe ancliorage lialf a mile from the beach, in six fathoms
of water, mud and chiy bottom, sheUered from all winds excepting from
north to nortli-west. These winds, however, never come home to the
bottom of tliis bay with sufficient force to injure a ship at any season
of the year. In the summer months, Mhcn the southerly winds pre-
vail, the water is entirely smooth in any part of the southern side of
Jhe bay. The best anchorage is about a mile from the soutliern shore,
fmmediately in front of a house that stands near the beach, about hall-
way up the bay, in five or six fathoms of water, clay bottom.

From the Nvest point of the bay, along the south shore, to the head
of the bay, extends a chain of rocks, running nearly half a mile from
the laiul ; outside of which there are no other dangers until you ap-
proach the head of the bay, where there is a sand-bank, lying in front
of tlie Berg or Mountain River, about two miles ofl-shore, with only
three feet of water on it at low tide. Ships in want of fresh water I
would recommend to anchor near this bar, and send the casks into the
river on the flood tide, to ascend the stream as far as the flood will
carry them, which is about five miles. Here let them remain imtil
nearly the last of the ebb, when the bungs may be knocked out, and
the casks filled with \ery little trouble. This water will prove to be
of a most excellent quality, and will keep sweet as long as any that
was ever taken to sea. The next ebb-tide will take the full casks
<lown to the ship just by keeping the boat ahead, and the whole pro-
cess will be rather a pleasant recreation than an arduous duty. Of
course care must be taken that the casks are perfectly clean, tight,
and w'ell bunged, to prevent the entrance of salt water.

I have filled fifty casks at this river at two diflerent times, and al-
, though I had large crews, they w^ere always healthy while using the
water from the Berg River. There is a spring near the house before
mentioned, on the south side of the bay, where twenty or thirty casks
may be filled at any time ; but the water is not good, as I found that
about twenty-five of my crew were attacked with diarrhoea after drink-
ing of the water for twenty-four hours. But while I had the Berg
River water on board, w^hich was nearly eight months, there was not
a sick man among a crew of thirt3--five men, although for six months
of the time the weather was very warm.

The farmers that reside on the banks of Berg River are principally
Dutch, and very industrious. They pay their attention to raising grain,
and rearing cattle, horses, and sheep for the Cape Town market.
They also produce some wine of a good quality, and a small quantity
of brandy. Beef and mutton are very cheap here ; as are also nearly
all kinds of fruits that are common to tropical climates, as well as a
great variety of vegetables. I have purchased fine fat bullocks that
would w^eigh eight hundred, for four dollars each ; sheep for one dollar ;
and as fine oranges and lemons as I ever saw, for half a dollar a hun-
dred ; and every thing else in proportion. Wood also may be had on
the banks of Berg River, but not of large size. The Dutch farmers
generally employ the Hottentots to work on their farms, and say

Sept.] DRAKENSTEIN VALLEY— NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 283

that they are very tmsty and inoffensive, but not very fond of hard
work.

The wines that are made on the banks of Berg River are principally
made in an extensive valley about fifty miles from the river's mouth,
called the Vale of Drakenstein. Tiiis valley is a remarkably fertile
tract of land, enjoys a most delightful climate, is well inhabited, and
its soil is capable of every species of agriculture. Two-thirds of the
wine which is brought to Cape Town is supplied by the vineyards of
.^ Drakenstein alone. Great quantities of choice fruits are also raised
Iiere, and every month of the year the table may be supplied wiih
various kinds, accompanied with six or eight diflerent sorts of wines.

The celebrated Constaniia wine is made on two farms, close under
the mountains, about half-way between False Bay and Table Bay.
One of these farms produces the white, and the other the red Con-
stantia. Some of the wines that are made in the valley of Draken-
stein are frequently sold to strangers for Constantia. But I should
suppose that any one might easily detect the fraud. The Constantia
wine is of an exquisite quality, which is scarcely susceptible of im-
provement ; but the other varieties, which come under the general
appellations of Cape wine and Cape Madeira, have an earthy taste, a
diluted flavour of Muscadel, and in most instances an undisguised taste
of brandy.

In the light sandy grounds cotton succeeds well ; coffee and sugar-
cane might both be cultivated with success, if properly attended to ;
and indigo grows wild on the banks of the river. Hemp and flax are
raised here, the latter producing two crops a year. The tea-plant has
been a long time in the colony, having been brought from China ; but
. it is now totally neglected. Wheat, barley, and oats are successfully
cultivated ; but rice does not gTOw here.

The wild beasts common to this country are gradually retiring be-
fore the encroachments of man. The lordly lion retreats sullenly
and indignantly before the image and likeness of his Maker, and is
only seen at respectful distances. The deserts, however, even in the
vicinity of the cape, resound with the howling of wolves and the bel-
lowmg of hyenas. The jackal of the cape and the tiger-cat are
also common. The beautiful white-faced antelope, or springer, is so
common near Fish River, that herds of more than two thousand may
sometimes be seen together. Gazelles, with their " exquisitely soit
and expressive eyes," are numerous. Zebras are becoming very rare
in the colony. The elephants have also forsaken the districts inhabited
by Europeans. The two-horned rhinoceros shows itself still less ; the
ostrich is found in the deserts of the interior, and sometimes comes in
troops to lay waste the fields of corn.

One of the most beautiful animals of this country is the gnoo, the
head of which bears some resemblance to the African bufl^alo. lie
lias an erect mane on the neck, and another under the neck, descend-
ing from the breast between the fore-legs. His shoulders and body
are somewhat like those parts of tiie horse, while he has the elegant
limbs of the antelope. Besides the animals already mentioned, there
are foimd here the wolf, panther, elk, bufi'alo, leopard, rhinoceros

28-t SURVEY OF THE COAST. [1828.

wild (logs, baboons, hogs, hares, ant-bears, or ground-hogs, porcupines,
hedgehogs, and a variety of monkeys. Among the feathered tribes
are eagles, vultures, kites, pelinans, flamingoes, spoonbills, cranes,
ibises, wild geese and ducks, teals, snipes, quails, bustards, and par-
tridges. Turtle-doves of many sorts, thrushes, humming-birds, and
an immense variety of other small birds, of the most exquisitely beau-
tiful plumage, are foimd in the woods ; but I heard none of them sing.
It is a common saying, however, that '* in South Africa flowers have
no smell, birds no song, rivers no fish." But there is no rule without
an exception ; as fish are found in some of the rivers, and some of
these beautiful birds may have delightful notes.

There are ostriches of two kinds that frequent the sandy plains of
Karroo, in considerable numbers, and their eggs are less strong in
taste than those of ducks or geese. The females are very sociable in
their domestic concerns and family affairs. It is not unusual to find
thirty-six eggs in a single nest, the joint stock of three females, who
incubate together, attended by the fathers of the brood. Along the
coast are various kinds of sea-fish, such as perches, stone-breams, rock-
fish, mackerel, soles, and skate ; and abundance of muscles and oysters.
A variety of serpents and other reptiles are found in .the forests, to-
gether with scorpions and insects of various kinds. The sea-cow and
the alligator are found in the Berg River.

From St. Martin's Point we steered to tlie north-east, until we were
abreast of Cape Deseada, which is a low sandy beach in front of
bluff sand-hills, about two hundred fathoms back. From hence our
course was north-north-west, for^bout five leagues, when we were in
front of Lambert's Cove, in which small vessels may lie in perfect
safety, in three fathoms of water. The entrance is from the north,
and it runs in to the south-south-east about half a mile. Several
Dutch farmers reside in the vicinity of this harbour, and the adjacent
plains are covered with black-cattle.

From Lambert's Cove we steered north-north-west, a little westerly,
until we were abreast of Cape Dunkin, in lat. 31° 55' S., long. 18° 6'
E. This cape is the south point of a small bay of the same name,
^vithin which ships may find partial anchorage, in from ten to six
fathoms of water, sandy bottom. From thence we continued steering
to the northward for the distance of four leagues, when we were close
in with Elephant River, the entrance of which is in lat. 31° 37' S.,
long. 17° 59' E. This river is not navigable for vessels, nor even
boats, unless the sea is very smooth, as there is a bar stretching across
its entrance, with only two feet of water on it ; and as the westerly
swell is constantly heaving in on this coast, there are generally heavy
breakers on the bar. But within this bar there is plenty of water for
a large ship, for the distance of two miles up the river, in front of a
small village, where there are several Dutch farmers residing.

This river enters from the south, running in north-north-west about
two miles ; and then it turns to the east and east-south-east, carrying
bold water for a long distance inland. If there could be a passage
cut through the bar at t!ie mouth of this river, it would be the finest
liHrix)ur o!i the west coast of Africa. The inhabitants are principally

Sept.] SURVEY OF THE COAST. 285

engaged in rearing cattle, only cultivating sufficient grain for their own
consumption. Fish may be caught in great abundance in the mouth
of this river, within the bar. There are no dangers between Elephant
River and St. Helen's Bay that lie more than two hundred fathoms
from' the shore. The soundings are regular. Ten miles from the
land you will have forty fathoms of water, and it gradually becomes
more shallow as you approach, until you are within one mile of the
beach, when you will find ten fathoms of water, sandy bottom, with a
few broken shells.

The land between Elephant River and St. Helen's Bay deserves a
few descriptive remarks. Bluff sand-hills, moderately elevated, are
seen from one hundred to three hundred yards back from the beach.
About half a mile from the latter the sandy ground begins to terminate,
and the soil to commence. Another half-mile farther inland brmgs us
to good soil, where the plains are as line for grazing as any in the
world. Between the beach and the sand-hills just mentioned there is
a fine road, running a great part of the distance between the two
places. The whole coast along here exhibits unequivocal evidences
of its once having been agitated by volcanic eruptions ; such as lava,
in irregular masses, with different strata distinctly defined. Pumice-
stones also are scattered over the country for manv miles inland,
forming irregular hills, &:g., interspersed witli lava, basalt, and other
volcanic productions. In pulling along this shore with my boats, I
had ample opportunities of examining these relics, and making these
observations.

Septemher Idlh. — We continued exploring the coast in this manner,
keeping the boats close in-shore in search of fur-seal on every mile
of the coast, until Saturday, the 13th of September, when we fell in
with a small island, in lat. 3P 32' S., long. 17° 56' E., about half a
mile from the shore. Here, for the first time, our search was suc-
cessful. A small reef runs ofl' from the west end of this island, to the
distance of about a hundred fa thorny.

From this island we followed the shore to the north-westward,
passing Fomt Grazing, in lat. 31° 20'' S., and four places which are
said to be rivers, viz. Zwarte Darn River, in lat. 30° 45', not open ;
Greene River, in lat. 30° 33', not open ; Zwarte I.intjie River, 30° 21',
not open ; and Koussie River, in lat. 29° 54' S., long. 16° 57' E. ;
the latter v/as open, and may be passed in boats only at full sea. It
is closed at times, however, in the dry season, by the shifting of the
sand-hills in windy weather. This may well be called Salt River, as
the salt water runs up it about fifteen miles, ten miles of which is very
shallow. This is the northern bomidary of the cape colony.

Many of the rivers which intersect this extensive colony are merely
periodical torrents, which continue to flow during the rainy season, but
which, during the summer, leave their deep-sunk beds almost com-
pletely dry; and the rivulets which are supplied by the mountain
springs have scarcely escaped from their lofty sources, before they
are either absorbed by the thirsty earth, or evaporated by the heated
air. Even the permanent rivers, some of which contain sufiicient
water for the navigation of small craft, for several miles up the country.

286 CAPE VOLTAS. [182S.

are all, except the Knysna, rendered inaccessible by a bar of sand or
a reef of rocks across the mouth.

The land bordering on the seacoast in this latitude is very sandy,
and only fit for grazing fields ; and for many miles into the interior it
seems to be destitute of arable soil. Many kinds of skins, however*
may be procured here, including those of the leopard, fox, bullock, &;c.,
together with ostrich-feathers, and valuable minerals from the head of
Koussie River. Vast numbers of horned cattle are raised in the
interior.

From the mouth of this river the coast tends north-north-west, a
little westerly, twenty-eigljt leagues, to Cape Voltas in latitude 28° 24'
S., long. 16° 28' E. ; variation per azimuth 25° 55' westerly. There
is a -bank of soundings that puts olT to tlie west of this cape, about
thirty miles, at which distance there is forty fathoms of water ; the
depth becoming gradually and regularly reduced as we approach the
shore. This bank extends southerly along the coast, quite to the
Cape of Good Hope, varying from thirty to tifty miles off-shore ; and
from Point St. ^Martin's to tlie last-named cape there are many dangers,
lying from tvro to five miles off-shore. But north of St. Martin's to Cape
Voltas, there are no dangers more than a quarter of a mile from the
land.

The Socos Islands, laid down on the charts as lying in latitude 29^
35' S., long. 16° 34' E., said to be about twenty miles from the land,
are not to be found. They have been represented as four in number,
with several small islands between them and the continent. But I can
assert positively that no such islands exist ; neither is there any island
of any description lying between St. Helen's Bay and Cape Voltas,
more than half a mile from the main.

Cape Voltas is also very erroneously laid down, in latitude 29° 20'
S., and long. 16° 31' E., with a deep bay running in on the north side
of the cape, twenty-five miles, in an east-south-east direction, with deep
water all over the bay. Now, the true and correct situation of Cape
Voltas is in latitude 28° 27' 30" S., long. 16" 17' E. The cape is a
high blufif point, projecting into the sea, and there are several rocks
lying about half a mile to the west of it, beyond which there are no
dangers. About one mile north of the cape there is a small bay, not
more than two miles in length, and one and a half in width ; within
which the anchorage is not safe, as the ground is foul, and heavy
rollers arc continually heaving in from the westward, at all seasons of
the year. Ships, however, which are in want of firewood, may lie
off and on, and obtain any quantity from the head of the bay, Avhere
they will find a thousand cords piled up on the beach, which come
down the Orange or Gariep River, the entrance to which is about two
leagues to the north of Cape Voltas.

The land around the cape, and to the south as far as Koussie River,
is high on the seaboard, running back into elevated mountains. The
hill-sides are covered with very good grass for gi'azing cattle, but the
summits of these eminences are one mass of volcanic productions. I
know not how far north of Table Bay Mr. Barrow travelled, without
discovering " a volcanic product ;" but I am positive that such relics

Sept.] * CAPE VOLT.\S. 287

might have been found m great abundance as far south as Elephant
River. Mr. Barrow says, " There is neither a volcano nor a vol-
canic product in the southern extremity of Africa^ at least in any of
those parts where I have been ; nor any substances that seem to have
undergone the action of fire, except masses of iron-stone, found gene-
rally among the boggy earth, in the neighbourhood of some of the hot
springs, and which appear like the scoriae of furnaces. Pieces of
pumice-stone," he continues, " have been picked up on the shore of
Robben Island (or Seal Island, in the mouth of Table Bay), and on
the coast near Algoa Bay, which must have been wafted thither by the
waves, as the whole basis of tliis island is a hard and compact blue
schistus, with veins of quartz running through it ; and, of the eastern
coast, iron-stone and granite."

If these remarks were intended to apply to the vicinity of Cape
Town, or even as far north as St. Helen's Bay, a distance of more
than a hundred miles from Table Bay, I have nothing to ofler in oppo-
sition. But north of that, I must contend for volcanic remains.

It is said that there is no fresh water to be had on this coast, north
of Cape Voltas. But this is an error ; as any quantity can be had in
Voltas Bay, in the rainy season, without the trouble of searching for it
under ground. But by digging, fresh water may be had at all seasons
of the year, at a short distance from the head of the bay, where the
landing is very safe and convenient, sheltered by two small islands
lying close to the beach, inside of which the water is perfectly smooth.
This is also a fine place to procure bullocks' hides, fox-skins, leopard-
skins, ostrich feathers, and many other valuable articles.

For the lucrative business of "jerking beef," there is not a more
eligible situation on the whole surface of tlie globe ; as any number
of bullocks, in the finest order, may be purchased at fifty cents each,
delivered on the beach ; and for ten months in the year there is little
or no rain. By penetrating the interior forty or fifty miles from the
coast, which may be done with perfect safety, and without the slightest
personal risk, thousands of fine fat cattle may be purchased for as
many toys, and the bargain consummated under the guns of your vessel.
The natives are honest and inofiensive ; being in a state of nature, and
having never studied the arts of deceitful villany which are practised
80 successfully by the children of civilization.

Should any citizen feel disposed to fit out a vessel for the coast of
Africa, to procure a cargo of hides and other valuable articles, I will
cheerfully communicate every necessary information on the subject ;
a subject which I have deeply investigated, and can speak of from
practical knowledge. Such a voyage could not fail of being highly
profitable to the owners and every one concerned. Had I not subse-
quently made more valuable discoveries in the Pacific, and were I not
bound by every tie of humanity, as well as justice and honour, to
restore my two captives to their native country, to which they are very
anxious to retmrn, I would myself be the first to penetrate the interior
of Africa ; witli full confidence that in twelve months after I arrived
©n the coast, I could purchase, and have driven to the seacoast^

288 ORANGE RIVER. [1828.

more tlian fifty thousand bullocks, besides the other valuable articles
common to that section of the country.

Tills important discovery I laid before my owners, on my return to
New-York from tliis present voyage ; but they thought me enthusiastic,
the project cliimerical, and refused to li-sten to it. I did not urge the
subject, as I had a desire to seek for discoveries in another quarter;
whicli, as tlie seiiucl will show, proved to be a losing speculation for
all i-onccrncd ; to mc in particular, as I not only lOst my property, but
also my friends — a very natural consequence. Had I been permitted
to return to Africa, the Antarctic would by this time have become as
famous

"As Jason's Argo, which conveyed to Greece
The woahhy purchuse of the eolden flecco ;"'

nor should I have been fated to sustain an unecjual combat M'ith the
giants of prejudice and the hydras of malice and jealousy.

Scptemhfr 18///. — After taking on board a sufhcient quantity of wood
in four hours, we left Cape Voltas, on Thursday, the 18th, and steered
to the north, with a fine breeze from tlie south, and fair weather. At
3, P. M., we reached the entrance of dJariep or Orange River, between
Avhich and Voltas Bay, on the scacoast, the land is very low, sandy,
barren, and d(>solate. It retains this appearance for some distance
from the shore ; but after running back six or eight miles, it begins to
swell into hills, and still farther back it rises into lofty mountains,
which stand each side of the river, on the banks of which are a few
Hottentot villages. The wealth of the inhabitants consists of herds of
cattle and Hocks of sheep.

Orange River, though quite extensive in its course, is, in the latter
part of the dry season, nearly closed at its entrance, and the water
cnntinucs shallow four or live miles westward of the river's mouth.
On this slioal the sea breaks every full and change of the moon, as
there is a heavy swell setting in from the west at that time. There
are many valuable minerals and precious stones found in and about
this river, and 1 have found a few gTains of gold-dust at the river's
mouth. Copper and lead ore have been found here, and I have no doubt
that there are many valuable mines in this part of the country. Not-
■wiihblanding the steril aspect of the seaboard, twenty-five miles up
the river the soil is good, and the country well wooded. A few miles
larthcr east are extensive plains, on which I have seen more than
three thousand head of cattle, equal to any in the world. Here the
soil is rich, and would produce any thing that might be put into the
ground. Some of the forests are of very handsome growth, and the
(litferent varieties of plants are very numerous. I have bought bullocks
here for one pound of powder each, and ostrich feathers at a propor-
tionably low price.

Persons wishing to have communication with this river must land at
A'oltas IJav, and Malk to the banks of Oranoe, as there is no landhiff
at or near its mouth, any season of the year, on account of the con-
tinual heavy surf that is always rolling in upon this coast from the
westward. Tliis river rises far in the interior, and may be said

Sept.] ORANGE RIVER— ELIZABETH BAY. 28Q

to commence at Campbell's Dorp, six hundred miles directly east from
its mouth ; beinjr formed there by the coailuence of another, called
Yellow River, which rises among mountains nearly four hundred miles
to the north-east of Campbell's Dorp, and eight hundred from the moutli
of the Orange. Two or three other rivers also add their waters to the
Oransfe.

Taking our leave of Orange River, we continued examining the coast
to the north-north-west along a straight shore, clear of dangers, until
we came to what is called Angras Juntas Bay, said to have an island
at its entrance, and a bay or lagoon within the island, running six
leagues north and south, completely sheltered from all winds. This
[ know is not the case, as I have examined every rod of this coast
with my boats, in broad daylight, close to the outer edge of the surf
on the beach. At the place called Angras Juntas tliere is a small
bend in the land, running in to the eastward about a mile, the width
of its mouth being a mile and a half. Here ships may find tolerable
shelter, with southerly winds, and it is likewise a convenient place to
have communication with the Hottentots, some of whom reside about
live miles to the north-east of this bay. There is a small rock that
stands to the south-west of the south point about two miles, with deep
water all around it.

At the entrance of this bay there is fourteen fathoms of water, which
gradually lessens to five fathoms, al^out half a mile from the bottom
of the bay, sandy bottom. But the best anchorage is under the south
shore, one-fourih of a mile from the point to the south-west, in six
fathoms, sandy ground. This place is situated in latitude 27° 47' S.,
long. 15° 50' E.

September 20th. — We continued steering to the north and west,
rritically examining every mile of the coast, until Saturday, the 20th,
when we arrived at Whale Bay, which is in latitude 27° 23' S. This
bay is unsafe for ships to anchor in, on account of the shoal water in
every part of it ; but they may anchor outside of two small islands
which front the baj^ lying half a mile from the shore, on which may
be taken a few fur-seal, in the proper season. The landing on the
south side of the bay is good, and an eligible place for trading with the
Hottentots, who inhabit a small village which stands in a pleasant valley,
ten miles inland. They frequently stray down to this bay in search
of shellfi.sh, and will dispose of bullocks, sheep, and ostrich feathers
on very favourable terms. I can recommend these men for trusty
guides for any person that may wish to take an excursion into the
interior. The coast along here is nothing but one sandy desert, with
the exception of a few rocky hills composed of volcanic substances.

From this place we followed the coast to Elizabeth Bay, which is
fronted by Possession Island. The centre of the island is in latitude
26° 57' S., long. 15° 8' E. Between this place and Cape Voltas there
are many small islets and reefs, lying half a mile from the shore ; but
there are no dangers at double that distance from the land ; and ships,
if becalmed, may anchor five miles from the coast, in from fifteen to
twenty fathoms, sandy bottom. These soundings extend along the
whole range of coast.

*290 ELIZABETH BAY— POSSESSION ISLAND. [1828.

Possession Island is three miles in length, anil near one mile in width ;
-forming, on the east side, a concave curvature, in which ships will find
good anchorage in from seven to four fathoms, sandy bottom, and
smooth water. The landing is also good in front of the anchorage,
near the centre of the island, half a mile from the beach. At this place,
in the months of August, September, and October, any quantity of pen-
•guins' eggs may be collected ; and fisli of an excellent quality may be
caught in great abimdance about the shores.

On the surface of this island I saw the effects of a pestilence or
plague, which had visited the amphibious inhabitants of the ocean with
as much malignancy as the Asiatic cholera has the bipeds of the land.
The whole island was literally covered with the carcasses of fur-seal,
■with their skins still on them. They appeared to have been dead
about five years, and it was evident that they had all met their fate
about the same period. I should judge, from the immense multitude
of bones and carcasses, that not less than half a million had perished
here at once, and that they had all fallen victims to some mysterious

•disease or plague.

There are a few sunken rocks lying off the south point of the island,
about three-quarters of a mile, on which the sea generally breaks. There
is also a reef running off' the north-east end of the island, about three
miles, on which the breakers are frequently very heavy. These reefs
both incline to the eastward, which promotes the smoothness of the
■water in the harbour. Between the island and the continent, or rather
between the extreme points of the reefs and the mainland, the channel
is three miles wide, with from fifteen to ten fathoms of v.-ater, sandy
bottom, and free from dangers. Ships intending to anchor at this
island while the south winds are fresh should approach the anchorage

Jrom the south, and leave it by the opposite passage.

A Hottentot village, of limited dimensions and population, is situated
about twenty-five miles east-by-south from the bottom of Elizabeth
Bay ; and another, somewhat larger, will be found on an east-by-north
course, fifteen miles farther inland, containing about seven hundred in-
habitants. Between this village and the seacoast is a dreary sandy
waste, destitute of water, soil, and vegetation ; with the exception of a
jjkrsmall valley, in which there are several fine springs, where cattle that
are driven from the interior may renew their stock of fresh water.
Forty miles on an east-by-south course from the landing, on the south
part of the bay, are several small villages, inhabited by a very civil in-
offensive race of Hottentots, who raise a considerable number of cattle
and sheep. But seventy -five miles farther inland the cattle and sheep
are almost innumerable, and may be purchased at a very low rate ; say
twenty-five cents per bullock, and five cents for sheep ; besides the
skins of other animals, ostrich feathers, and ivory. At that distance
the land is very fertile, and would produce any thing put into the
soil.

But the farther you advance into the interior, beyond one hundred

.cind twenty miles, the larger and more numerous are the herds of

-cattle, which may be purchased for a still lower price, to be delivered
and paid for oa the seacoast. There is no more danger in travelling

Sept.] ANGRA PEQUENA. 291

into the interior of this part of Africa than there is in travelling from
New- York to Boston ; providing the travelling party take no arms
with them, and no more wearing-apparel than is absolutely necessary.
On all my excursions into the interior of this country I was careful to
go unarmed, and dressed in nothing but a pair of duck trousers and a
duck frock. Thus presenting nothing to excite their cupidity, I was
invariably treated by the natives with the greatest kindness and hospi-
tality, as they would freely share with me their last morsel of food. I
should not hesitate, therefore, to travel across the continent of Africa,
if suitable encouragement were offered, as I am confident that the en-
terprise would be attended with no personal hazard so far as the natives
are concerned.

Sept. 24:th. — Seventeen miles to the northward of Possession Island
is Angra Pequena Bay, where we arrived on Wednesday, the 24th.
The westernmost point on the south side of this bay is in lat. 26^ 39'
south, long. 15° 7' 30" east. This is a high bluff point, rendered con-
spicuous by a marble cross erected on the summit in 1480, by Bartholo-
mew Diaz, a Portuguese navigator. This monument of his success-
ful enterprise along the coast of Africa is still standing, after having
braved the storms and heats of three centuries and a half. About four
miles eastward of this cross is Angra Point, which has a small
rocky reef, lying north-by-east, half a mile from the shore, between
which and the point there are five fathoms of water. But I should
always advise strangers to pass to the north of this reef, giving it a
berth of half a mile. After passing the reef you will open a lagoon
running in to the southward, between four and five miles, the entrance
to which is one mile and a half wide ; a clear passage, with seven
fathoms in the middle of it, becoming gradually more shallow as you
approach the head of the lagoon or either shore. After advancing
about three miles up this lagoon, you will find four fathoms of water,
muddy bottom, and here is the best anchorage under the western shore,
about a quarter of a mile from the beach.

Two miles east-by-north from Angra Point, and due east of the reef
just mentioned, are two small islands, about one mile from the main-
land, lying parallel with the coast, which runs here nearly north and
south. Neither of these islands exceeds a mile in length ; but the
southern one shelters good anchorage in five fathoms of water, clay
bottom. The best situation to anchor in on the east side of the south
island is near its centre, about two cables' length from its shore ; leav-
ing a single rock, that lies level with the surface of the water, and
nearly mid-channel, about half a mile to the north of the passage.
This harbour may be entered and left v.ith perfect safety, either from
the north or soutli end of the island ; but I can recommend the south-
ern passage as being the most easy, and entirely clear from dangers
twenty fallioms from either shore. The anchorage under the northern
island is unsafe, there being several sunken rocks between it and the
mainland, which do not always show themselves.

These two islands have once been the resort of immense numbers
of fur-seal, which were doubtless destroyed by the same plague which
made such devastation among them on Possession Island, as their re-

292 AXGRA PEQUEXA. []82&.

jTiains exhibited the same appearance in both cases. Sliags and pen-
guins had now taken entire possession of these two islands, in such
jiumbers that ships might procure any quantity of their eggs in the
months of September, October, and November; and have them entirely
fresh, by clearing out the old from the nests, and gathering the new
every morning. These islands present the appearance of volcanic
productions of an ancient date, as do also some of the mountains in the
interior of the mainland.

Navigators who visit this coast for the purpose of opening a trade
with the natives of the interior should make Angi-a Pequena their
principal rendezvous to the south. By travelling forty miles due east
irom the sea, they will come to fresh water, and will meet with Hot-
tentots who are very friendly, and may be trusted. This excursioi],
however, thus far, is not pleasant, being over a barren sandy desert ;
but every mile you proceed farther the prospect brightens, the soil be-
comes rich and fertile, and the country abounds with all the produc-
tions of the climate. The inhabitants soon become numerous, and the
grassy plains are covered with immense herds of fine cattle. The
forests remote from the villages are the hunting grounds of the natives,
■where they kill or take various kinds of wild beasts for their valuable
skins ; such as leopards, lions, zebras, gray foxes, &:c., together with
birds of a beautiful plumage. Here are antelopes, sheep, and ostriches
in abundance ; elephants, jackals, ant-bears, porcupines, hedgehogs,
baboons, apes, monkeys, &:c. The country to the nortli-east of Angra
Pequena abounds with ores and minerals, which, together with ivory,
ostrich feathers, and other valuable articles, can be had low. The
bay of Angra Pequena affords an immense quantity of excellent fish,
of many different kinds, which may be caught either with a hook and
line or a seine.

Navigators have reported, and it is so marked on maps and charts,
that this region of the western coast of Africa is entirely desti-
tute of freshwater ; and that none is to be found between the sixteenth
and thirty-first degrees of south latitude. This idea is founded in
error ; for I have found many places, while travelling along near the
seashore on this coast, where freshwater maybe had in any quantity
by digging very shallow wells. To the north of Angra Pequen<i,
about ten miles, there are many fine springs of excellent fresh water,
about one mile from the seacoast, where any quantity of tlie pure
limpid element can be obtained for a dozen ships at a time. The naiads
of these fountains are female Hottentots, svho, like the damsels of Pa-
dan-aram, are drawing water for their flocks. They, as well as the
other sex, are very friendly, and will furnish a stranger with refresli-
jiients, and the most trusty guides, if he wishes to penetrate the interior.
, 1 have experienced their fidelity in many extensive excursions ; and
therefore speak from practical knowledge. Ten or twelve families are
generally near each of those springs.

I can also refute another erroneous statement respecting this coast. It
is said there is a dangerous shoal lying between three and four leagues
to the west of Angra Pequena, in lat. 26"^ 35' S. But I can assert, with the
greatest degree of confidence, that there is but one shoal on any part

Oct.] , CHABOE ISLA^'D. 293

of this coast, south of Spencer's Bay, that lies more than four miles
from the mainland ; and this one lies north-north-west from Angra
Pequena, or Santa Cruz, about fifteen miles.

October 2d. — On Thursday we got under way, and steered to the
south, to examine a few rocks which lie about one mile off-shore from
the mainland, and nearly half-way between Possession Island and
Angra Pequena, or Santa Cruz. These rocks are small, but evidently
of volcanic origin, and have fine anchorage between them uid the
mainland, in five fathoms of water, sandy bottom, sheltered from all
winds. But their greatest attraction in our estimation was their dense
population of fur-seal, with which they were literally covered. We
of course secured a few of these animals, or rather a few of their
valuable jackets. In going into the anchorage just mentioned, you
pass the north point of the ledge, leaving the rocks on your right-
hand half a cable's length distant, and then haul immediately round to
the south, and anchor abreast of the middle of the ledge, about mid-
channel.

October 6th. — From this anchorage we steered once more to the
north, and passing Angra Pequena we arrived at Ichaboe Island on
JMonday, the 6th of October. This island, which is about one mile in
circumference, lies eight leagues to the north and west of Angra Pe-
quena, and not more than a mile and a half from the shore. On the
east side of this island ships may anchor in perfect safety, m five
fathoms of v/ater, sand and clay bottom, about two cables' length from
its shore. The safety and convenience of this anchorage are owmg to
the following circumstances : — A point of land from the continent ex-
tends three or four miles into the sea, to the south of the island ; and
from the extremity of this point a reef puts off in a north-west direc-
tion, until it nearly meets a reef that projects from the west side of the
island. Another reef puts off from the north-east point of the island;
consequently a bay is formed, in w^hich a ship might lie all the year
round, m perfect safety and smooth water. But hi coming to this an-
chorage care should always be taken to pass round the north end of
the island, giving its north-east point a berth of half a mile, which will
avoid all dangers. In working into this harbour the shore on the main
may be approached within two cables' length.

This is a fine place for making captive ihe great leviathan of the
ocean, the right whale, great numbers of which strike on this part of
the coast about the middle of June. They are in the habit of playing-
about the reefs of the island, and that which runs from the continental
point before mentioned ; and as the south wind generally prevails, there
is no difficulty in getting the dead whale alongside of the ship. Scale-
fish may be caught at the anchorage with hook and line ; or at the
bottom of the bay with a seine, in great quantities. An abundance of
crawfish may also be caught with a hoop-net, all around the island,
within fifty fathoms of the shore.

Eggs also may be obtained here in great quantities. In the months
of October and November this island is literally covered with jackass-
penguins and gannets, wliich convene liere for tlie purposes of laying
and incubation. The nests of tlie gannets are formed like those of

294 ICHABOE ISL.\XD— MERCURY ISLAND. [1828.

tlie albatross, but are not so much elevated ; while the jackass-pen-
guins lay their eggs in holes in the ground, from twelve to thirty
inches in depth, which they guard with the strictest vigilance. I have
seen them stand at the entrance of these holes and protect their eggs
or young ones with the most resolute perseverance, until they were re-
moved by superior physical strength. They frequently lay three or
four eggs, but the gannet seldom lays more than two.

This island is formed of volcanic materials, and its shores are re-
sorted to by multitudes of fur-seal ; we took about one thousand
of their skins in a few days. The surface of this island is covered
with birds' manure to the depth of twenty-five feet. The south-east
part of the bay, on the mainland, directly opposite the island, is the
finest place on this part of the coast for jerking beef, it being only
four miles from a Hottentot village and the springs of fresh water
before mentioned, which will supply any number of cattle. Here
also I travelled into the interior to a considerable distance, and found
that the farther I advanced to the north-east, the more numerous were
the herds of cattle and flocks of sheep ; Mhile the skins of leopards,
gray foxes, &c. could be obtained with the utmost facility ; together
with ivor}', ostrich feathers, and other valuable products of the country.

October 20th. — Having taken as many fur-seal skins as was prac-
ticable, we weighed anchor on Monday, the 20th, and steered to the
north, carefully examining the coast for fur-seal. I had now fully
made up my mind that a series of voyages to this coast for jerking
heef, and trading for other articles with the natives, would prove a
most brilliant enterprise, and make fortunes for all concerned. So
fully was I impressed with this idea, that I determined to propose it
to my employers immediately on my return, not doubting for a mo-
ment that they would view it in the same favourable light. In the
last particular I found myself mistaken, as I have already mentioned.
But it really appears astonishing to me that some men of capital do
not see the golden opportunity at a single glance, and seize on it with
avidity. An investment of thirty thousand dollars only, if properly
inanaged, would in two years produce a profit of from ten to fifteen
hundred per cent. !

October 22d. — On Wednesday, the 22d of October, we anchored
on the east side of Mercury Island, in four fathoms of water, about
two cables' length from the island, which is situated in latitude 25°
42' S., long. 14^ 58' E. It is one mile in circumference, of an oblong
shape, lying north and south, and is three-quarters of a mile north
from the south-west point of Spencer's Bay, and one mile and a half
west from the north-east point of the same bay. Both passages are
easy, and free from dangers ; and the best anchorage is on the east
side of the island, about one hundred and fifty fathoms from its shores,
in five fathoms of water, sand and clay bottom. I would not advise
ships to anchor to the south side of the bay, as a heavy westerly
swell heaves into it, on the full and change of the moon ; but let them
anchor close under the island, and they will lie perfectly safe, in
smooth water.

The south point of Spencer's Bay presents several high peaked

Nov.] SPENCER'S BAY. 295

rocks, nearly six hundred feet perpendicular, at the water's edge;
Whales frequent this bay in considerable numbers, in the months of
July and August. Seal of the fur kind also frequent the shores of
Mercury Island, while its summit is thickly inhabited by penguins
and gannets, during their laying and incubation season. The shores
and surface of the island present many specimens of volcanic pro-
ductions, as do also those of the continent in this vicinity, extending
some distance into the country.

There is a Hottentot village about forty miles on an east-by-south
course from the head of the bay, containing about two hundred and
fifty inhabitants, and situated in a fertile valley, watered by several
springs of excellent fresh water. There are also four refreshing
springs between the village and the bay. The interior of the country
abounds in cattle, sheep, deer, bucks, wolves, gray foxes, elephants,
and ostriches, in greater numbers than it does farther south ; whicli
may be had for any price you please to give, in the M'ay of barter ;
for money would be of no more use to them than an equal weight of sanc}^
would be to us. Offer them such articles as their circumstances
require, and they will trade in the most liberal and honest manner.

I am aware that most people have imbibed the mistaken idea that"
these natives are treacherous, and cruel, and bloodthirsty, and every
thing that is bad. It is no such thing. I make the assertion on per--
sonal experience and practical knowledge. There is no more danger iir
travelling two or three hundred miles in the interior of this country
for the purpose of purchasing cargoes, than there is in travelling
among our own Indians in the state of New-York ; provided you'
take no temptations with you, and no other arms than a musket.
Whatever you purchase of the natives is sold in good faith, to be
paid for according to contract on the delivery of the articles at the
beach, and not before. Under this arranorement, thev could not de-
fraud you, were they so disposed ; and were there no other safeguard'
for your person, the prospect of this payment would be amply suffi-
cient. But their natural dispositions are friendly and humane ; and if
you treat them with kindness, they will repay your favours more thaiF
ten to one. When they deliver the cattle and other articles at the
beach, give them the articles in return for which they stipulated, and
they are satisfied ; but I would recommend a little extension of cour-
tesy on these occasions, by presenting their chiefs a few tasteful trifles^
which may attract their attention. Whatever you bestow in this way,-
will not be thrown away, but returned to you sevenfold in some other
shape, or on some other occasion.

While on this subject, with a special reference to the purchase of
cattle and the jerking of beef, it may be well to mention that there
are many salt-springs in the valleys at the head of Spencer's Bay,
where salt might be manufactured in immense quantities, if properly
attended to. But perhaps it would be full as cheap to bring the
article from the Cape Verd Islands, to jerk your beef and cure your
hides ; which is necessary to prevent the invasion of bugs and other
insects.

November Gth, — After taking about a thousand fur-seal skins from

296 BIRD ISLAND— ALLIGATOR ROCKS. [1828.

Mercury Island, and examining the interior of the countr}* at a great
distance inland, we got under way, on Thursday, the 6ih of Novem-
ber, and steered to the north, for Bird Island, where we arrived on the
following day.

This little island, which is not more than the fourth of a mile in
circumference, is in latitude 24° 38' S., long. 14^ 22' E., and about
three leagues from the mainland. A reef of rocks runs off from it,
in a south-west direction, about five miles, on which the sea breaks at
times very heavily. A vast number of right whales frequent this
reef in the months of July and August ; and a ship may lie at an-
chor on the north side of the island, in ten fathoms of water, all the
whaling season, in perfect safety, if she has chain cables. This
island is resorted to by seal, gannets, and penguins ; and we took
here the skins of fourteen hundred fur-seal at one time, although the
landing w^as very bad. The passage between the island and the con-
tinent is about nine miles in width, free from hidden dangers, with a
depth of water from twenty to ten fathoms, near the mainland.

The Alligator Rocks, as laid down on the chart, I could not find,
after two days spent in the search. I therefore conclude that there
is no such reef, but that Bird Island has been seen in a haze, and
mistaken for a^ danger which does not actually exist. The extreme
haziness of the w^eather peculiar to tliis coast might very easily have
deceived Captain Wood, of his Britannic majesty's ship Garland,
when he thought he had discovered a reef here, in 1798 ; for I have
frequently been running along this coast, not more than one league
from the land, when the sand-hills which line this part of the coast
have appeared to be five or six leagues from the vessel.

I have no doubt that Bird Island is the eflect of some mighty con-
vulsion of nature, which has piled together in an irregular form loose
blocks of stone, basalt, lava, and other volcanic productions. The
waters around its shores, however, abound with many kinds of excel-
lent scale-fish, which may be caught with hook and line in great
quantities. A few turtle, also, may be found on a small sandy beacli
on the east side of the island.

November \bth, — This was William Ogden's birth-day, and the
termination of his minority. There w^as a melancholy interest that
hung about this young man, not often noticed among the rough
sons of Neptune. Though foremost in the discharge of active and
hazardous duties, he seemed to shrink within himself the moment
there was no further demand for his exertions. When rallied on his
abstraction, he would by a sudden effort rouse himself to cheerfulness,
and even gayety ; but a cloud would soon come over the sunshine of
his countenance. Those who attributed these changes of weather to
some affair of the heart were not a thousand leagues off their reck-
oning, as I afterward ascertained.

November I6th. — On Sunday, the 16th of November, we left Bird
Island, and continued our examination of the coast to the northward,
with a gentle breeze from south-by-wesi, and fair weather: and,

November I8th. — On Tuesday, the iSth, we arrived at the moutli
of what is called Sandwich Harbour, said to have three fathoms of

j^ov.] SANDWICH HARBOUR— WALWICH BAY. 297

water in its channel of entrance. Although we found only eleven
feet at high-water in this channel, I have no doubt that there was
a time, some years back, when its depth was full three fathoms,
and that it has been filled up by drifts of sand, the movements of
which along this coast forcibly reminded me of the snow-drifts of
my native country ; every fresh southerly wind forming new sand-
hills, exactly as new snow-banks are formed at home, by a fine, clear
cold north-wester.

This lagoon runs into the southward, about two leagues, with seven,
five, three, and two fathoms, nearly all over it. It is formed on tlie
east by a high white bluff sand-hill ; and on the west by a low
sandy peninsula nearly level with the sea ; with shoal water on the
seaboard side for more than a mile to seaward. The entrance of the
lagoon is very narrow, being not more than a quarter of a mile wide,
and formed by two low sandy points, situated in latitude 23° 35' S.,
long. 14° 28' E. Variation per azimuth in 1828, 23° 15' westerly.

Perhaps there is not a finer place on the whole coast than this for
taking fish with seines. Many diff*erent kinds of fish resort to this
lagoon ; one of which bears a strong resemblance to our " streaked
bass ;" and is as fat and delicate-flavoured fish as our salmon. There
are many other sorts, equally good, but of a smaller size. Many
cargoes of fish might be taken from this lagoon in a short time ; and
they would sell for a good price at St. Helena, Cape of Good Hope,
Isle of France, or the Isle of Bourbon. Green turtle also visit the
sandy beaches for the usual purposes.

November 22d. — We left Ponta dos Ilhoes, or Sandwich Harbour,
on Thursday, the 20th, and steered to the northward, examining the
coast in search of fur-seal; and on Saturday, the 22d, ^ve arrived at
Walwich Bay, the west point of which is very low, and lies in lati-
tude 22° 53' S., long. 14° 24' E. The entrance to the bay is one
league broad, running to the south two leagues ; one league and a
half of which is navigable, and the depth of water in going in is
from twelve fathoms to three, mud and clay bottom near the head of
the bay.

The east side of this bay is formed by moderately elevated sand-
hills, near the seashore, and the west side is formed by a very low
sandy peninsula, not more than fifteen feet above the level of the sea
at any place. The isthmus is very narrow, it being not more than
twenty rods from the head of the bay to the seashore. The penin-
sula, however, is from one to three miles in width. In entering this
bay, it is necessary to give the west point a good berth, of nearly half
a mile, on account of a sand-bank that runs ofi' from it, in a north-
north-east direction about a quarter of a mile, on which there is only
six feet of water at low tide. After doubling this point, in advancing
up the bay, it is proper to give the western shore a berth of one-fourth
of a mile ; taking care not to approach to it any nearer, as the water
becomes shallow very suddenly, from five fathoms to two, and even to
four feet, at low water. This is a mud bank, which stretches all along
the western and southern shore of this bay ; but the eastern shore is
bold one cable's length from the beach, nearly to the head of the bay.

298 • WALWICH BAY. [1828.

This bay and its vicinity, in the months of August and September,
are visited by great numbers of right whales, which resort thither for
the purpose of bringing forth their young. Fish also, of various
kinds, and in great abundance, may be caught here with a seine;
but it is difficult to haul the seine on shore in any part of the bay
excepting the eastern shore, on account of the mud flats. Ships
visiting this bay for the purpose of taking whales, in the months
before named, should anchor about half a mile within the bay,
under the western shore, in five fathoms of water, muddy bottom.
In this situation they will be enabled to see whales from the mast-
head, outside of the bay beyond the peninsula ; and at the same
time lie in safety, as northerly winds never blow here more than a
royal breeze, and that for a few hours only. They will also gain
much time, and save much labour, in getting the whales along-
side the ship ; as the wind blows nearly all the time from the south ;
and often, in the afternoon, a single-reef breeze. But it is generally
calm at night, and in the fore-part of the day. The water is entirely
smooth all over the bay, and consequently it is a safe as Well as a
spacious harbour at any season of the year.

The interior of the country to the eastward of this bay presents a
dreary range of desert sandy mountains and valleys, entirely destitute
of soil, or vegetation of any kind, for twenty or twenty-five miles inland,
with the exception of a few valleys that lie to the east-south-east and
south-east of the head of the bay, in which are a few Hottentot villages,
with small herds of cattle and sheep, that feed on such coarse grass
and shrubbery as they can pick up.

About three miles from the south-east part of the bay, on a south-
east-by-east course, is a small village, where fresh water may be had
from many springs in the valley. This water possesses a peculiar
flavour, not unlike sassafras tea, but it is not in the least brackish.
The village contains about two hundred and fifty inhabitants, who often
visit the bay for the purpose of fishing. I have frequently had them
on board the vessel, and have purchased from them cattle and sheep,
which were in fine order. I uniformly found them to be a very friendly,
harmless, inoffensive people, but very indolent and filthy, and some-
what given to thieving:.

Their tents or wigwams resemble those I have seen near the Strait
of Magellan, and are sufficiently capacious to accommodate two or
three persons. A number of poles are stuck in the ground, in a cir-
cular form, the tops of which are fastened together in a point by a
leather thong. Over the summit of this conic frame is thrown a bul-
lock's hide, to which others are attached, until the simple habitation is
completely protected from the weather. Their clothing is made of the
skins of the gray fox, the deer, the leopard, &c., sewed together with
the sinews of the animals, in the form of a blanket, which they throvjr
over the shoulders, with the hair-side next to their bodies, being tied
around the neck, and hanging down to the feet. Both sexes dress in
the same manner, the female being distinguished only by the profu-
sion of her ornaments : these consist of shells, bones, and minerals
of different kinds, and are worn about the neck and wrists ; but the
men have nothing of the kind.

Nov.] HOTTENTOT EPICURES. 299

Though the sole wealth of this people consists of cattle and sheep,
they derive much of their sustenance from the ocean. Their imple-
ments for fishing and hunting are the spear and the bow ; the former
is made of a heavy hard wood, and is generally about sixteen feet in
. length : this wood resembles our yellow ebony, but the grain is not
quite so line. Their bows are made of the same kind of wood, and
measure about live feet in length, being two inches wide in the centre.
The arrows are of reed, about three feet long, and pointed with hard
M'ood and flint. Both sexes are very expert with these weapons. I
have frequently seen them shoot gulls on the wing at fifty yards' dis-
tance ; and they seldom fail of placing the arrow in the body of the
bird. They are equally expert with the spear in catching fish, — fre-
quently striking one of seven to ten pounds' weight at the distance of
twenty-five to thirty yards. Their fishing excursions generally detain
ihem from home three or four days : they salt all the fish which they
take over and above what they consume on the spot, which they al-
ways eat raw, and the small ones are devoured without even divesting
them of their entrails. They procure their salt from the springs at the
head of the bay.

In appeasing the cravings of hunger these people are, in fact, hor-
ribly disgusting to a civilized person, — being actually fonder of the
entrails of cattle and sheep than of any other part. On my killing
some of these animals on the beach for the use of our crew, the na-
tives devoured the entrails raw, before they were cold. I offered them
some of the beef, but they refused it, and gave me to understand that
the entrails were the best part of the creature in their estimation. In
eating eggs, their fastidious delicacy is even more conspicuous ; for
they will not touch one until incubation is nearly perfected, protesting
that fresh eggs are not fit for food. At their villages I observed that
they roasted their beef, as they did also the flesh of wild beasts. The
entrails, however, were seldom cooked, as the luxurious epicures pre-
ferred them warm from the animal.

When they have been successful in taking a great number of oceanie
birds, which is often the case in the laying season, they bury them in
the sand, with their entrails in them, until they become quite green.
This takes all the fishy taste from them, and they become very tender.
They then take out the entrails, skin the birds, and dry their bodies in
the sun, which will so effectually cure them in forty-eight hours, that
they may be laid away for twelve months without receiving any injury^
Indeed, such is the purity of the air on this part of the coast, that I
have had a quarter of fresh beef, weighing two hundred weight, hang-
ing in the rigging until it became perfectly dry, without becoming-
tainted in the sliorhtest degree, even next to the bone. What stronger
evidence need be adduced to prove the excellence of this location for
jerking beef? The atmosphere is pure, warm, and dry; and for ten
months of the year there is scarcely a drop of rain. Very little falls
during tlie other two months.

300 EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. [1828.

CHAPTER IV.

Excursion into the Interior — Description of the Natives — Face of the Countr}' —
Natural Productions — fSudden and transitory Vegetation — Droves of Elephants
— Return to the Vessel — Sail from VValwich Bay — Arrive at Mercury Island —
A most afllicting Disaster, in the Loss of Ogden — Tribute to his Memory — Ar-
rive at Point St. Helen — AVreck of tho English Brig Columbine — An Offer to
save her Cargo rejected — Arrive at Table Bay — Description of the Place — Sail-
ing Directions — Phenomenon of • the Tablecloth — Sail from Table Bay, and
again steer to the North.

As the season was not yet sufficiently advanced for the seals to come
lip in their usual numbers on the islands and rocks to the south of our
present position, or between Walwich Bay and the Cape of Good Hope,
I determined to improve the interim by making a deep excursion into
the interior of the country, in order to acquire all the information that
could be obtained respecting the feasibility of my favourite project. In
pursuance of this object, I proceeded from the head of the bay, in the
direction of east-south-east, to the distance of nearly one hundred and
jifty miles ; occasionally falling in with several different tribes of the
natives, who all treated me M'ith marked kindness and hospitality,
evincing a willingness to share with me ever}' thing they had. Some
of their principal men volunteered to accompany me as guides and
companions from one village to another, and furnished me with a tame
bullock to ride on, after the fashion of the country. This animal was
changed for a fresh one every fifteen or twenty miles.

From the many deserted villages which we passed, it would appear
that these people shift their ground ; and when the pasturage becomes
exhausted in one valley, conduct their flocks and herds to another, by
which means their cattle and sheep are kept in such excellent order
for the market. Fifty miles from the seashore, the land becomes very
rich, and the grazing fields or plains are covered with heavy grass, of
a fine soft fibre. I think I speak within bounds in saying, that some
of these valleys contain from five to ten thousand head of cattle, all
perfectly tame, " sleek and well favoured," besides three times that
number of sheep. And there are hundreds of valleys between the four-
teenth and twenty-fourth degrees of south latitude containing immense
Avealth in other things, as well as herds of cattle, most of which may
be purchased at a very low price, and paid for in the manufactures of
our own country.

The face of the country here is much diversified, and abounds with
limestone, without petrifactions ; clay, slate, sandstone, quartz-rock,
granite, k.c. In the hills are vast bodies of limestone, lying in hori-
zontal strata upon granite and slate. In the valleys, and on the sum-
mits of some of the hills, not more than fifty miles from the seashrre,
are extensive beds of coral, the most elevated of which is at least seven

Nov.] CORAL ON LAND. 301

or eight thousand feet above the level of the sea. On some of these
summits the coral is entirely in its original state, standing exactly as
it does in the coral beds which are seen beneath tlie surface of the
* sea. 1 found this submarine production to be friable in various de-
grees ; the extremities of some of the branches, being from three to
four feet above the sand, were easily reduced to powder ; while those
that were in the valleys, or near the surface of the sand, required some
force to break them from the rocks in which they appeared to be
rooted.

I have frequently seen coral on land, a mile or two from the sea-
shore, but never so far from the ocean, or at so great an elevation, as
in the present instance, nor in the same state of perfection. The ques-
tion naturally arises, how came it here, unless this part of the conti-
nent once formed part of the ocean's bed ? If so, at what period of
time did it emerge from the watery element ? Can philosophy answer
these questions 1

Perhaps every reader is not aware that coral is an animal production.
It was formerly supposed to be of a vegetable nature, but is now found
to be composed of what men of science term a " congeries of animals,
endued with the faculty of moving spontaneously." Coral is, in fact,
a mass of minute animals adhering tofjether in the form of veo^etable
branches ; taking root like plants, and growing up in stems. They are
dijflerent from plants, however, inasmuch as they are furnished with
sensation and spontaneous motion ; and they differ from other animals
in being destitute of blood-vessels, vertebrae, spinal marrow, and con-
necting muscles and limbs for locomotion. They are distinguished by
the form of their branches, and are found in the ocean adhering to
stones, bones, shells, &;c. The islands in the South Sea are mostly
coral rocks covered with earth. The coral animals begin their labours
on the summits of submarine mountains, and work up to the surface.

The immense numbers of this class of zoophytes must exceed the
furthest stretch of human imaoination. Chains of coral reefs mav be
traced from the Sandwich Islands, in the Pacitic Ocean, to the coast
of Sumatra, a distance of nearly six thousand miles, with a depth and
width correspondingly vast. This is one of the numerous sul)jects
which a reflecting mind cannot contemplate without being lost and swal-
lowed up in a vortex of wonder and astonishment ! " How wonderful
are Thy works ! In wisdom Thou hast made them all !*'

In this excursion I found copper, lead, and iron ores ; and from un-
equivocal indications I have no doubt that gold and silver ore may be
found in this part of the country ; together with precious stones, s])ices,
and valuable drugs. I also collected several large grains of gold-dust
from broken quartz-rock, and among the gravel and sand produced by
its fragments, from which I infer that considerable quantities of that
precious article might be obtained through the assistance of the natives.
I regi'etted very much that on this occasion I was not accompanied by
some scientific gentleman, well versed in mineralogy, botany, <fec.
Those gentlemen, for instance, who sailed from New- York in the fol-
lowing year (1829), on board the brigs Seraph and Anawan, of that
. port, M'ould have found an ample field for their scientific researches in

302 EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. [1828.

this unfrequented part of Africa, as well as on the many unexplored
islands which I visited in my last voyage in the North and South Pacific
Oceans.

In returning from the interior towards the seaeoast, I paid some
attention to the nature and character of the soil, which in many instances
I found to be a loam of sandy clay, often from ten to fourteen inches
in depth, mixed with particles of ochre, — a sort of earth consisting of
alumina and red oxide of iron. Such a soil, hardened bv an African
climate to the consistency of sun-baked bricks, would seem to promise
but a sorry vegetation. But the germs of vegetable life are concealed
and preserved under the surface of this almost impenetrable crust
during those months in which the rains and dews of heaven are with-
held from this region of the earth.

In the month of June, when the rains begin to fall, and soften this
hard layer of loam, the fibres of the torpid plants receive the grateful
moisture, and the resuscitated germs push aside the now yielding clay,
and shoot forth in a thousand tender forms of vegetable life and beauty.
In a few days the whole steril waste is clothed in a soft and delicate
robe of green, which soon becomes enamelled with blossoms of every
hue, and of the most delightful fragrance. Millions of these delicate
fiowers ornament the hills and spangle the valleys, while the whole
atmosphere is perfumed with paradisiacal odours. " The desert now
blossoms as the rose," and " the parched heath becomes a garden of
flowers." The Hottentots now descend from the mountains, and ad-
vance into the plains nearer the seaeoast, where they find an abundance
of sustenance for their flocks and herds. Antelopes, ostriches, and
other animals also descend into the valleys, which greatly increases
the beauty of the scene.

But, alas ! when nature thus suddenly plays the prodigal, she soon
exhausts her means, and becomes a niggard again. This beautiful
scene is soon stripped of its glory. In the month of September or
October the flowers fade, and the leaves fall to the earth ; and the
incipient germs of future fertility, the property of another year, are
safely locked up in their prison of clay, from whence they will be
again called forth by the benign influence of a periodical rain. At
this dry season, when the grass is withered, the succulent plants alone
furnish food for the herds and flocks, botli wild and tame. The
streams and rivulets soon dry up, but the springs in the valleys
never cease to flow ; and they supply the different kinds of animals
with sufficient water to allay their thirst. But when vegetable life
refuses to act in the valleys, they return to the mountains, with ap-
parent reluctance ; and some of them will remain in the valleys a long
time, feeding upon succulent plants, which afford them both food
and drink.

In crossing the sandy deserts, v/hich extend from the seaeoast about
forty miles inlaad, and about eight hundred miles north-west and south-
east, we find that this parched and arid plain is intersected, in various
directions, by the vacant beds of a number of small streams ; which,
though mostly dried up, can be easily traced and clearly distinguished
by the dark green mimosas which grow along their banks, and which

Dec] SAIL FROM WALWICH BAY. 303

form the only instances or symptoms of vegetable life throughout the
whole dreary waste. This is indeed a retirement fit for the diffident,
unobtrusive sensitive-plant.

The natives of this part of the country are not like those to the
.south of this place, nor those to the north of the fourteenth degree of
south latitude, who employ the principal part of their time in hunt-
ing the elephant, the antelope, and other peaceful animals, from the
spoils of which they enrich themselves. But these natives never
molest the elephant, nor any other animal, except for the purpose
of providing themselves with necessary food and clothing. The con-
sequence is, that, hunted from their native forests, at the north and
south, the persecuted animals retreat to this unfrequented region for
protection, and here they live in security, rapidly increasing in num-
bers. The quiet and peaceable elephant is here the monarch of the
forest, and his race has become very numerous in the interior. From
my Hottentot guides I learned that they roam in vast herds through
the densely-wooded tracts of the country, disputing the right of
sovereignty even with the African lion. Matchless in size and strength,
yet tranquil, peaceful, and majestic, they march in herds or troops,
headed by the most ancient of their number, who acts as king, chief,
or leader, to the party. They lead a social, almost a moral life ; mo-
lesting neither man nor beast, unless first assailed by them.

Droves of elephants have frequently passed within one hundred
yards of our party, without deigning to notice us with any more atten-
tion than we should in passing so many ants on the road. In all
collisions with these sagacious animals, man is always the first
aggressor, to which act he is incited by cupidity alone. Their
ivory tusks form the most valuable article of trade that Africa can
boast, gold dust excepted. It is generally supposed, from the pro-
digious strength of the elephant, his almost impenetrable hide, his
rapid though clumsy movements, that he is a most desperate and
perilous object of attack. But those Africans who make it a business
to take them succeed w-ithout much difficulty, by forming pits and
snares of various descriptions, into which they are treacherously in-
veigled.

December IdtJi. — Having finished my excursion, and returned in
safety to the vessel at Wahvich Bay, examined the salt springs, and
procured a supply of beef and mutton from the natives, we again found
ourselves in readiness for sea, as it was now time to retrace our steps,
and look for seals to the south. The reader will remember that from
Saldanha Bay to our present anchorage, a distance of more than ten
degrees of latitude, we had critically examined every mile of the
coast ; our boats being, at no time, more than one or two cables'
length from the breakers, and all by daylight. I can therefore say,
with confidence, that there are no other dangers along this part of the
coast than what I have pointed out and described ; and every navigator
who follows these directions will be sure to keep his ship afloat. It
will not be necessary, therefore, in passing over the same ground, to
recapitulate the facts already stated.

December loth. — On Monday, the loth, we once more put to sea,

304 ^ MERCURY ISLAND. [1828.

and steered a southerly course for Mercury Island, touching at Bird
Island on the way, from which we took a few fur-seal skins. We
continued plying to the southward, with the wind from south-south-
west during the day, and south-south-east during the night, until we
arrived at Mercury Island, on Monday, the 22d. Here we commenced
taking seal, and although the landing w^as very bad, I adhered to my
usual custom of leading the gang ; a custom which every ship-master
should adopt who is engaged in this business, as it never fails to pro-
mote the interest of all parties.

In scaling the rocks and precipices of an unsheltered shore, to attack
a large body of these ferocious amphibia, some hazard is necessarily
incurred, and some courage consequently required ; and I have always
found a vast difference in the result, whether I sent my men ahead
with the words " Go on, men ! Go on !" or led the van myself, with
the more animating exclamation of " Come on, my lads ! Come on !"
The latter language seems to kindle the fire of enthusiasm in every
bosom; to inspire them with new courage, and to endue them with
redoubled vigour. They rush forward reckless of danger, placing the
fullest confidence in the experience and cool intrepidity of their enter-
prising leader.

■ December 24th. — On Wednesday, the 24th, I landed with a party of
twenty-three picked men, with the intention of taking a large body of
fur-seal, which were assembled on the west side of the island. The
sea was tolerably smooth, and the men in fine spirits, with the pros-
pect before them of surprising and destroying an unsuspecting army,
which would yield them such valuable spoils.

Our schooner lay at anchor on the east side of the island, in four
fathoms of water, about two cables' lenjith from the shore. While
manning the boats and pulling for the shore, the men were made ac-
quainted with my intended plan of attack, and received their orders
accordingly. I have already intimated that there is no spot on any
side of this little island where a landing can be effected with ease and
facility. But to minds resolved no difficulties appear too formidable
to be surmounted.

As our boat left the vessel's side, several of the men were guessing,
and proposing trifling bets, on the probable number of seal which were
to yield us their jackets on this occasion ; at the same time dropping
some jocose remarks on the confusion which our unexpected appear-
ance would cause among the amphibious members of the defenceless
community whose social arrangements and domestic enjoyments we
were about to annihilate.

" Poor fellows !" exclaimed young Ogden, arousing from a brief fit
of musing abstraction ; " what ties of affection are soon to be severed
for ever ! — whole families nearly cut to pieces, and the survivors
plunged in misery ! Those that escape will find to-morrow a melan-
choly Christmas."

" Ours will be the more merry for our success," replied his friend
Oscar Studivan. " Besides, it will teach these gentry a useful lesson
on extravagance in dress. If they wore hair instead of fur, as some

Dec] FATAL DISASTER. . 305

of their humbler neighbours do, we should never molest ihem." Ogden
made no reply, but seemed absorbed in some other subject.

" To-morrow will be a merry day among the genuine Knicker-
bockers of New- York," resumed the last speaker. " How runs
your favourite quotation about the Christmas holydays ?" Ogden
replied,

" Whatever pains assailed, or griefs opprcss'd,
Christmas and New-year always saw me blest."

They were proceeding with some further remarks to the same effect,
when I interposed with a caution of silence, and orders to stand ready
for landing, when no man was to speak above a whisper. Tliis ar-
rangement is always necessary, as the seal are ever on the alert, and
on hearing the least noise, are apt to fly to the. ocean for safety.

It was now about eight o'clock in the morning. The tide was low,
and the sea tolerably smooth ; so that we effected a landing without
much difficulty. Having secured the boats, we all silently crept along
the north shore of the island, which is only a mile in circumference,
and in a few minutes came in sight of our intended victims, who were
lying well up on the summits of the steep rocks. I led the way,
closely followed by my six confidential companions, viz. Messrs.
Lewis, Johnson, Terry, Ogden, Studivan, and Valentine Lewis. The
seal soon scented the approach of an enemy, as we plainly perceived
by their suddenly manifesting symptoms of alarm. No time was now
to be lost ; but an instantaneous rush was necessary, in order to com-
mence the attack before they could recover from their confusion.

" Come on, my lads !" I exclaimed, in a cheerful but half-suppressed
voice ; " come on, and let every blow tell." The rush of my little
party was simultaneous ; every nerve and muscle was exerted, and
we had reached the opposite side of the rookery, killing several seal
in our way, when we found that the other party, under the command
of Mr. Burton, had been stopped in " mid-course" about the centre of
the rookery, by the immense number of seal that began to pour down
the steep rocks and precipices, like an irresistible torrent, bearing
down their assailants, and taking several of the men nearly into the
ocean along with them. On seeing their danger, however, we " flew
to the rescue," and soon relieved them by turning the tide of war in
another direction. Several hundred fur-seal were left lifeless on the
shore and rocks.

As the rollers now began to set in with a considerable degree of
violence, I ordered the men to commence skinning those which lay
nearest to the water's edge first. They applied themselves to the
task with alacrity; but had hardly secured the jackets of more than
fifty seal, when a wave of enormous size came rolling in to the shore,
with such velocity as to take ofi' and ingulf in its bosom Messrs.
West, Burton, and Ogden. Ten or twelve others, with myself, very
narrowly escaped the same disaster.

" Man the boat !" I exclaimed, and the order was echoed by a dozen
voices at once ; and the alacrity of obedience was such, that the men
descended a rocky clifl' of about two hundred feet in height, apparently

306 DEATH OF YOUNG OGDEN. [185^8.

without a step. In a moment tliey were in the boat, and near the
struggling trio who were coniending for existence agrxinst the ruthless
billows. They first pulled for Mr. West ; but as he found no great
inconvenience from swimming, he ordered them to assist Ogden and
Burton, who, he said, were nearly exhausted, which proved to be the
case : for before the boat could reach Mr. I3urton, who was just on
the point of going down, they saw poor Ogden sink to rise no more.
After taking Mr. Burton into the boat, they pulled around for some
time over the plaise where Mr. Ogden was last seen, but all to no pur-
pose. That graceful, manly frame was destined to find a resting-
place in some coral cavern of the ocean, while his amiable and aspiring
spirit soared to the realms of everlasting bliss. •

Thus pcribhed, in the bloom of his earthly existence, a young man
who, had he lived, would doubtless have proved an honour, not only to
his family, but to his country, and human nature ; a young man whose
highly cultivated and accomplished mind was endowed with every
manly grace, whose heart was the seat of every manly virtue ; the
hope of a widowed mother — the idol of amiable and afleclionate sisters
— the pride of brothers who contemplated with proud satisfaction the
budding promises of his future usefulness. I knew him well. His
integrity was inflexible, and for strict veracity I have never met with
his parallel ; for he looked upon an untruth, even of the most trifling
nature, as an ofience against honour and virtue, which no circumstance
could extenuate. He was temperate iii all things — moderate on all
occasions, except in his eagerness to encounter danger. He never
shrank from his duly, on tlie most trying occasions, except that of
"being required to listen to the language of well-merited praise. In v
short, he was the exemplary son of a pious mother ; and that includes
the highest and brightest encomium of which human language is sus-
ceptible. Alas ! for thooc who loved him ! Theirs is the loss — his
an eternal gain.

As a trifling tribute of afleciion and respect to the memory of one
so universally beloved, the colours of the Antarctic were immediately
displayed at half-mast, and minute guns were fired over his watery
grave. A manly tear glistened in every eye, and the gloom of mourn-
ing sat upon every brow. Nothing was omitted on this occasion that
nautical usage or military etiquette has consecrated to such melan-
choly purposes.

Mr. Burton suffered much from the bruiaes which he received from
the rocks against which the roller threw him ; and this I presume was
also the case with the unfortunate Ogden, for I knew him to be an ex-
pert swimmer.

December 25th. — I now determined on leaving Mercury Island im-
jnediately, for I could no longer endure the melancholy scene ; we there-
fore got under v/ay on Thursday, the 25th, — the day on which we had
promised ourselves a merry Christmas, but which had risen upon us
as a day of mourning, — and steered to the south and west, with the wind
from south-by-east, and fair weather. The morrow did indeed prove to be
*' a melancholy Christmas," as Ogden unconsciously predicted. Every
returning anniversary will remind his friends of their irreparable loss.

April.] BRIO COLUMBINE— TABLE BAY. 307

We continued plying to the southward, taking advantage of the laml-
breezes by night and the sea-breezes by day, stretching along the coast,
and carefully examining every rock and island on which fur-seals were
likely to be found, for more than three months, when we found our-
selves once more in the thirty-second degree of south latitude.

April \Qth^ 1829. — On Sunday, the 19th of April, we arrived at Point
St. Helena, where we found the English brig Columbine, Captain Stew-
art, in a situation that precluded the hope of the vessel's ultimate safety.
She was on shore, and her valuable cargo in imminent danger of being
totally lost. Captain S. had sailed from England, bound for Van Die-
man's Land, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. Lieut. Mitchell
of the royal navy was on board as passenger. Him I took on board
the Antarctic, and proceeded to Table Bay with all possible expedi-
tion, to obtain permission to save the brig's cargo, and become entitled
to the salvage, which would have amounted to at least twenty-five
thousand dollars.

My proposition was rejected on account of the Antarctic being
American bottom ; though Lieutenant Mitchell and Messrs. Nisbot and
Dixon, three as worthy men as any country can boast of, exerted all
their influence with the government in my favour. Several other highly
respectable merchants also interceded for me ; but Sir Lowery Cole
refused to accede to the proposition. The only reason assigned for
this refusal was, that he hud enemies, and the moment that he varied from
the strict letter of the British laws, he should be censured for t akin or
8uch a responsibility on liis own shoulders. The consequence was,
that property was lost to the amount of about seventy-five thousand
dollars' value, the whole of which I might have saved, if I could have
obtained permission from the government, the Antarctic being the only
vessel then in port that was calculated for such an undertaking. It
"was lost.

April 2\.st. — We arrived at Table Bay on Tuesday, the 21st, and
anchored abreast of Cape Town, in four fathoms of water, muddy
bottom, about half a mile from the landing-place, which is at a kind of
bridge or jetty which runs out to the eastward about two hundred yards,
and has from eight to ten feet of water at its outer end. Large cranes
are erected on this landing for the convenience of discharging cargoes
from boats. Ships may fill their water here with a great deal of
facility, as it is conducted from springs under the high land to the end
of the jetty by leaden and iron pipes, to each of which is fitted a
leathern hose to conduct the water into tlie boats, where the casks
may be filled with the greatest ease and expedition, even if the sea
should be quite rougli.

In addition to what I have already said of Cape Town in a pre-
ceding chapter, I can now state from my own observations, that it is
handsomely built, the houses in general being from two to four stories
in height, built of stone, whitewashed, and disposed in straight and
parallel streets. Several beautiful squares give the whole town an
open, airy, and picturesque appearance.

To the north-west of the town are three strong batteries, which com-
mand the anchorage, and on the east side is the citadel. Half a mile

308 TABLE BAY. [1829.

still farther east is a small fort, with a line of redoubts. This bay is
an excellent place for all kinds of refreshments. Bullocks, sheep,
hogs, and poultry may be had at a moderate price, with various kinds
of vegetables and fruits. Fuel, however, is scarce and dear. The air
here is generally cool in the night, although the sandy soil is greatly
heated by the sun during the day, and this causes land-breezes from
-Table Bay to come off in hot gusts during the evening.

The southern or outer point of Table Bay is called Green Point, on
which a lighthouse was erected in 1825, four years previous to the
date of this part of my jom-nal. It is about two miles north-west of
the town, and is situated in latitude 33° 53' 30" S., long. 18° 19' 20" E.
Five miles to the northward of this lighthouse is Robben or Penguin
Island, which is two miles in length from north to south. The west
and south sides are surrounded by sunken rocks and breakers ; but
there are no dangers more than two cables' length from the island,
with the exception of a sunken rock that lies one mile south of the
southerly point, commonly called the Whale.

Ships may anchor off the eastern side of Robben Island, in five or
six fathoms of water, sandy bottom, half a mile from the shore, where
they will be completely sheltered from the westerly swell, and lie in
more safety in the winter season than they will in Table Bay. Ships
bound into this bay, coming from the north, and passing between
Robben Island and the main, should keep the light on Green Point
bearing about south-west-by-south, until they are past the island, in
passing which the least depth of water will be six fathoms. After
passing the island you may steer a direct course for the anchorage,
when you will have twelve, ten, eight, and at the anchorage six fathoms
of water, sand and muddy bottom. Arro\Vsmith's map is correct for
this port.

But in going into Table Bay when coming from the north, I would
always advise ships to pass to the west of Robben Island, taking care
to keep the lighthouse on Green Point to the eastward of south-by-
east, from the ship, until within one mile of the point, when you may
steer east-by-south, until the lighthouse bears south-west-by-west, when
you may steer for the anchorage, and moor in from five to four fathoms
of water, in the summer season ; but in the winter, ships should never
anchor in less than six and a half fathoms, as the northerly gales send
a very heavy swell into this bay, which often breaks in four fathoms.

Small vessels in entering Table Bay may keep the right-hand shore
close on board, as there are no dangers more than one hundred and
fifty fathoms from the shore that will bring a ship up. In entering:
tliis bay about noon, or a little after, I would advise ship-masters in-
variably to take one or two reefs in the topsails before they come up
with Green Point, as it is generally the case, in the summer months,
that before coming up with this point, ships may carry all sail ; and
the moment they open the bay, they will find a single or double reef,
and often, in the afternoon, a close-reef breeze. Thus, by using this
precaution, ships will not be in danger of losing their spars, or sphtting
their sails ; and after opening the bay, if they should not find too much

April.] TABLE BAY. 309

wind, in the flaws, they can soon turn out one or two reefs, and set the
top-gallant-sails.

It may be well to remark, that an eddy, or counter current, com-
monly sets from the north into Table Bay, between Robben Island and
the mainland ; while, at the same time, the regular current is setting
to the north, a short distance in the ofRng. Ships bound into the bay
should therefore be careful to make the land to the south of latitude
33° 55', if the wind be southerly. By not attending to this, and making
proper allowances for the currents, they have often fallen in with the
land to the north of Dassen Island, and even as far north as Point St.
Helena, where some of them have left their ribs on the sunken rocks
which line the coast between St. Helen's and Saldanha bays. Thus,
by falling in south of the port, in the summer months, they will have
tfee advantage of a fair wind and a favourable current ; whereas by
I'alling in north of the port, it may take them a day or two, under the
most favourable circumstances, to gain the anchorage.

It is unsafe for ships to lie in this port between the months of May
and October ; for the north-north-west and north-west winds then set
in, and often blow with great violence, so that unless a ship has very
good ground-tackling, she will almost inevitably go on shore. North-
west winds happen at all seasons of the year, more or less, but never
with any force between October and May. One of the most violent
north-west gales that ever happened at Cape Town was in July, 1822,
when a great number of vessels went on shore, and about seventy
houses and stores were destroyed. Fortunately, no lives were lost.

I have found, as well as others, that the variable state of atmospheri-
cal refraction in this bay is so great as to render it difficult, and some-
times impossible, to obtain accurate altitudes of the heavenly bodies on
shipboard. Objects are often reflected double, and I have several times
gazed at ships apparently sailing in the air. The best plan is to take
the chronometers on shore, and correct them by altitudes taken with
an artificial horizon.

Another phenomenon which deserves to be mentioned in this place
is, a fleecy vapour occasionally spread over the Table Mountain, and
is a certain prognostic of a hard gale. This is called the tablecloth
by Englishmen, but the French call it la perruque, or the wig. It com-
mences by a little white or fleecy cloud, which remains for some time
stationary over the summit of the Lion's Rump. It then gradually in-
creases until it covers the whole Table, when it becomes a dark gray
in the middle, while its edges still remam white. After continmng for
some time, it slowly mmgles with the atmosphere, until it finally dis-
appears without rain or mist.

A strong south-east wind commences immediately after the mountain
is completely covered, which often blows in squalls excessively hard,
and generally continues for two or three days. It blows very hard
through the gap which separates the Table from the Devil's Berg,
driving the white clouds in rolling fleeces like wool along the sides of
the mountains. Ships are frequently parted from their moorings, or
bring their anchors home, and are driven out of the bay with all their

310 SAIL TO THE NORTH. [1820.

anchors ahead. But the moment they are outside of the bay, they find
nothing more than a single or double-reef breeze.

I should advise navigators who enter Table Bay with the intention
of remaining any length of time, to anchor well under the M'estern
shore, and to strike top-gallant yards and masts ; always placing the
two best anchors to the south-south-east, and giving the ship the whole
length of both cables, which will cause the anchors to bed themselves,
and belter ensure the ship's holding on, or not dragging.

As regards a geological description of this portion of South Africa,
the reader can expect nothing from my pen, in addition to the many
elaborate strictures already before the public, by such scientific
voyagers and travellers as Barrow, Patterson, Campbell, Colebrook,
Collin, Kolben, Sparrman, Le Vaillant, Thunberg, Valentia, Peuchet,
Semple, Perceval, and a host of others. These writers have all care-
fully examined and particularly described the mountains, rocks, mine-
rals, vegetables, animals, &c. of the Cape of Good Hope, and to their
v/orks I refer the reader ; to a synopsis in the Edinburgh Encyclo-
pedia, under this article ; and to M. Malte Bran's System of Geog-
raphy.

April 2oth. — We left Table Bay on Saturday, the 25th, and
shaped our course to the north, for Angra Pequena, with a fresh wind
from south-south-east, and hazy weather. In the morning previous to
our departure, the tablecloth was spread on the mountain, and I had
an opportunity of seeing the mist collect and arrange itself about the
summit of Table Mountain.

But this phenomenon presents itself only when a strong, bold south-
east wind may be expected, which must condense the aqueous vapour
rising from the warm current, and carry it towards the land. During
the short stay I made at the Cape, this was the only opportunity I had
of observing this vapour advancing from the ocean. It came rapidly
over the surface of the sea, which it entirely concealed, while the air
above was perfectly clear. It came on with much force and velocity,
soon reached the land, and gradually enveloped the coast. It thea
ascended the mountain, where it remained apparently stationary,
almost entirely covering the Table Mountain with one vast sheet of
white fleecy clouds ; alternately increasing and decreasing on the side
of the mountain that overhangs Cape Town, and often descending
nearly half-way down the mountain, as if in mockery of human curiosity
and imbecility.

I was surprised to see this tablecloth, or sheet of clouds, remaining
stationary on the mountain after the south-east wind had set in with
great violence, until I recollected the vast height of this eminence,
which is estimated at more than thirty-six hundred feet above the level
of the sea, its precipitous sides, and the extensive surface of its top.
Nor is it strange that it should rarely descend (except when the wind
blows almost a hurricane), if we take into consideration the situation
of the ground beneath, — sheltered, warm, and the site of a large town,
from which a current of hot air must be constantly ascending.

When we got under way, which was at one, P. M., the wind came
down the mountains hito the bay in tremendous gusts ; and blowed with

'April.] ROBBEN ISLAND— DASSEN ISLAND. 311

such violence, that after tripping the anchor, and sheeting home the
fore-topsail, with the yard on the cap, the Antarctic was going at the
rate of eleven miles an hour. But, as we left the bay behind us, the
wind became more moderate ; so that when we were in the passage
between Robben Island and the main, we had all sail on the schooner,
which was then going at the rate of thirteen and a half miles an hour.

CHAPTER V.

Robben or Penguin Island — Dassen or Conpy Island — Arrive at Angra Pequena
— Sand-winds, and a moving Column of Sand — Intercourse with the Natives —
The Guinea-worm — A Horde of Macasses, or Makosses — Ogden's Harbour —
Cape Frio, or Cold Cape — Great Fish Bay — A Tribe of the Cimbebas — Ex-
cursion into the Interior — Port Alexander — St. Philip Benguela — St. Philip's
Bonnet — Province, Bay, and Town of Benguela — Anchorage, Landing, Soil,
Climate, Productions, Water, &c. — Animals, Vegetables, and Minerals — De-
scription of the Coast — Sailing DircctiouB.

In leaving Table Bay with a strong south-east wind, if bound for a
northern port, I would advise all navigators to pass between Robben or
Penguin Island and the mainland. In entering this bay from the same
quarter, I have already advised a different course, and adduced my
reasons. It was reported that Robben Island had been sunk by an
earthquake on the 7th day of December, 1809. It appears, however,
that this report had not quite so good a foundation as the island itself,
which still retains its former situation, with all its old characteristics.

This island has a sandy soil, with a ridge of moderately elevated
land in hs centre, running from north to south. On its eastern side
there is now a small establishment for the whale-fishery. Some grapes
and culinary vegetables are raised on the island, which can also boast
of several springs of good water ; it is of small dimensions, however,
being only about six miles in circumference. Penguins and quails
resort hither in the propagating season, where they establish their
nurseries; but do not get into the best of company, the island being
occupied as a dep6t for convicts from Cape Town, who are employed
in quarrying limestone, of which the base of the island is composed.

At half-past three, P. M., we passed between Dassen or Coney
Island and the shore of the mainland. This island lies about ten
leagues to the north and west of Green Point lighthouse, and is situ-
ated in latitude 33^ 27' S., long. IS"" 2' E. It lies nearly eight leagues
to the southward of the entrance to Saldanha Bay, and four miles from
the main. It is about six miles in circumference, with little elevation,
and a sandy surface. The shore is foul, and dangerous to approach
oa its south and west sides, as there are sunken rocks running off-
shore to the distance ef two or three miles, which will bring a ship up,
and do not always show themselves ; but on the north and east sides
the sliore is bold, and clear of dangers, close to where good anchorage
njay be found, with southerly winds, in from fifteen to eight fathoms

313 A MOVIXG SAND COLUMN. [1829.

of water, sandy bottom. The passage between the island and the
main is entirely clear of dangers two cables' length from either shore,

Tiiis island was formerly the resort of fur-seal ; but at present pen-
guins and gannets " possess it merely," if we except the men Avho occa-
sionally visit it for the purpose of robbing them of their eggs and feathers,
for the Cape market. Indeed, I was told by several respectable per-
sons at Cape Town that the feathers of the penguin were considered
superior to those of the goose.

April SO th. — "We continued on our passage to the north, with strong
southerly winds, and hazy weather, touching at different rocks which
lay in our way, and taking from them a few fur-seal, until Thursday,
the 30th of April, when we arrived at Angra Pequena, or Santa Cruz,
where we anchored on the east side of Penguin Island, at four, A. M.,
in five fathoms of water, clay bottom.

At about ten, A. M., the sand- winds came off; and to my great satis-
faction I had an opportunity of witnessing, for the first time in my life,
one of those moving pillars of sand which have been so frequently
spoken of by the celebrated iNIr. Adamson. It rose about five miles
inland from the head of the bay, and moved in the dii-ection of the wind
towards the south-west, increasing in magnitude as it advanced, until
it left the shore, when it began gradually to diminish as it crossed
the bay.

This moving column of sand passed within a cable's length of the
Antarctic, at which time I should judge that it would measure fifteen
or eighteen feet in circumference, of a conic form, and about two hun-
dred feet in nearly a perpendicular height from the water, leaning a
little to the south-west. Its heat, in passing the vessel, was sensibly
felt, while it emitted a strong odour, not unlike that of sulphur, which
was soon dissipated, however, by the strong gusts of wind which came
ofi' from the shore, raising the thermometer to 113^. The column
finally fell into the water, nearly half-way between Penguin Island and
Seal Island, the latter being about two hundred fathoms to the north
of the former.

This startling phenomenon mduced me to waver in my former opin-
ion respecting the visitation of a plague or pestilence on the unfortunate
seals, mentioned in a former chapter. Is it not more probable that
they w^ere overwhelmed and suffocated by one of these sand-spouts
bursting upon them, accompanied by the sultry, stifiing sand-winds
which created it? Such a cause would be more than sufficient
to produce the effect alluded to, — the simultaneous destruction of mil-
lions of these amphibious animals, assembled on the surface of the
two islands at the head of this bay, which are literally covered with the
decaying carcasses of the victims, wuth their skins still about them.

The effects of these sand-winds are sometimes very disastrous and
fatally destructive when occurring on the borders of the sandy deserts.
In one of my inland excursions in this country I had the misfortune to
encounter a tornado of this description, which impressed me with a
full conviction of their wonderful effects. The wind raised the sand
so as to completely fill the atmosphere, obscuring the sun at noonday,
and concealing every thing from view at the distance of two hundred

May.] THE GUINEA-WORM. 313

fathoms ; while an oppressive, suffocating weight accompanied the
masses of sand through which we had to make our way, with ex-
treme difficuhy and labour. Our dogs, in the mean time, with their
tongues hanging from their mouths, refused to face the clouds of sand,
and a parching thirst, to which water afforded only a temporary relief,
oppressed every individual of the party : the fine light dust was inhaled
at every breath. This storm lasted about six hours ; but it was more
than thrice that time before the atmosphere became tolerably clear
of floating sand.

The immense piles of sand which line this seacoast probably owe
their existence to the easterly, or what is called the sand-wind, blow-
ing so much stronger than the prevailing southerly winds ; the former
carrying the sand before it, and depositing it on the borders of the coast,
burying beneath it cliffs, rocks, and every thing but the highest hills.

We lay at Angra Pequena until the 5th of May, during which period
we overhauled and put in order our sails and rigging, and resalted the
skins we had taken on this coast, being six thousand. This process
was necessary to secure their preservation on the passage home. In
the mean time I had repeated opportunities of intercourse with the
natives, and gaining from them all the information I could respecting
the interior of the coimtry, with its animal and vegetable productions.

]More than one of these degraded people v/ere afflicted with that
appalling complaint called the Guinea-worm, which, I was informed,
^ frequently found on this part of the coast, invading the feet and legs
of the natives. It is a dangerous and disgusting animal, so small at
first as scarcely to be perceptible to human vision, which penetrates
the skin of the sufferer, and takes up its abode beneath it. Here it
will remain for years, feeding on the juices of the system ; and unless
removed by excision, will increase to the enormous size of from eight
to ten feet in length, and to the thickness of a violin's largest string.
Its general place of abode is the calf of the leg, as affording the most
nourishment ; but if it has pitched on any other part of the body, the
pains of the sufferer are always increased in proportion to the scarcity
of flesh in its vicinity. In all cases where this troublesome inmate is
not removed, its continued presence for a succession of years will
inevitably result in convulsions and death.

Poor Africa seems to be cursed with many evils unknown to the rest
of the human race in any section of the globe : — reptiles of the most
deadly venom, beasts of unparalleled ferocity, deserts of sand, and
moral deserts a thousand times more dangerous and appalling. But
her greatest curse of all is the white man's cupidity, tearing asunder
•itlie tenderest ties of human nature, and plunging villages and families
into mourning and despair. The hyena, the tiger, the crocodile, are
creatures existing by the will of Heaven— the man-stealer is a self-
created monster of hell. The depredations of the former are the
effects of hunger ; those of the latter, avarice — the meanest passion
that can enter the human breast.

The Hottentots in the interior of this part of the country are called
Macasscs, and though melancholy low in moral degradation, have
often been misrepresented by those who affect to believe that a dark

314 THE MACASSES. [1820.

skin places the wearer without the pale of human charity. These peo-
ple are harmless, quiet, mild, timid, and inoffensive ; very affectionate
towards each other, and susceptible of strong attachments. They
appear to possess very little of the art, cunning, and ingenuity so
t-'onspicuous in most tribes of straight-haired savages, and their indolence
«eems to be a disease of which terror alone can cure them. Their
animal propensities are somewhat swinish — lazy, gluttonous, and
Jilthy ; and yet I have reason to know that they can endure the crav-
ings of hunger for a long time without complaining. When the want
of food becomes troublesome, they seek consolation in sleep, a state
of negative enjoyment very suitable to their natures. After all, how-
ever, they are much less indolent and stupid than the tribes within the
limits of the colony of the Gape of Good Hope.

Tlie external appearance of these Hottentots is of course far from
being prepossessing. Their faces are very ugly, with high prominent
rheek-bones, and a narrow pointed chin ; long and narrow eyes, which
do not form an acute angle at the nose, like ours, but are rounded
off like those of the Chinese. The natural complexion of their skin
is a yellowish brown, very similar to that of a faded leaf. They
liave very regular teeth, of the purest white, and hair of a peculiar
and singular description. AVhen suffered to grow, it spontaneously
twists into small curls, which hang down their necks. Their bodies
are slender and well proportioned, with small hands and feet. They
appear weak and imbecile when young, and prematurely grow old ;
very few of them reaching the age of seventy.

The females are not so tall as the males, and are more delicately
formed. Their lively, smiling, good-humoured faces, combined with
sprightly movements and conciliating manners, generally render them
agreeable to strangers. A physical peculiarity in the formation of
female Hottentots is always a subject of curiosity and inquir}'.
No offence is taken, and the inquirer is readily furnished with ocular
testimony of the fact. Their employments are pastoral, almost every
female being a shepherdess, and much attached to their fleecy charge,
to their cattle, and to their faithful dogs.

Their dress consists of the skins of animals, sewed together in the
shape of a blanket, and thrown loosely over their shoulders ; with an
apron made of lamb-skin, about seven inches long, and five broad,
fastened to the waist with a strip of the gray fox-skin with the fur
inside. They adorn these aprons with such ornaments as shells,
feathers, ivory, minerals, and any thing else which they think will
heighten their charms in the eyes of a lover. The men paint their
faces with red and yellow ochre, and often tattoo their skins in differ-,
ent parts.

Both sexes are very quick-sighted in discovering game, or any
other object at a distance. The Hottentots are good hunters, and
have a peculiar skill in taming wild animals ; but what is very singu-
lar, though they resort to the seacoast many times in the course of a
year, they have not the least idea of building canoes, rafts, or bal/as,
for the purpose of fishing. In hunting, as in war, they use the bow

May.] - , THE MACASSES. 315

and the spear; and the points of their arrows are poisoned, by a
venom extracted from an insect of ihe spider class.

The females, like those of more civilized countries, often resort to
charms and mysteries, to gain a fancied peep into futurity, especially
relating to conjugal and maternal concerns. The desire for offspring
seems to be a universal sentiment in the female bosom ; and these
Hottentot ladies evince it in a singular manner. They catch a timid
little animal of the lizard species, called the aselis, and stretch him
till the skin cracks in several places. The number of these cracks
indicates the number of children the operator is to have. The pro-
pensities of this harmless reptile are somewhat singular. When
alarmed, it buries itself in the sand ; and if thrown into the air, the
moment it falls it disappears under the surface of the spot on which
it descends. The chameleon is frequently found among the rocky cliffs
in the vicinitv of this harbour.

The country of these Macasses, or rather Makosses^ has an extent
of about thirty leagues, north and south, but double that distance east
and west. Horned cattle constitute their riches ; and they change their
pasturage as often as circumstances require it. They are circumcised
at the age of eighteen ; but those travellers are mistaken who say
they do not eat fish, which they take with spears in a very dexterous
manner. They believe in magicians, in poisoners, and in an evil
genius, who sends them rain, thunder, and storms. The sweet seeds
of a plant which grows rapidly to the height of ten or twelve feet
are used by them to make a sort of cake ; another seed supplies them
■with an inebriating drink. Those who have two or three thousand
li€ad of cattle are not considered rich. Theft is punished by them
very severely.

I am aware that in calling these people Hottentots, I differ from
those travellers who bound the Hottentot country on the north by the
river Orange. But I have ascertained beyond the, possibility of a
doubt, that those invariable peculiarities of personal formation which
constitute the Hottentot proper are found in every tribe of natives south
of the twentieth degree of south latitude. Among others, I mean that
of the apro7ij with which the women are actually furnished by modest
nature. Mr. Kolben's authority on this point has been very unjustly
doubted ; but I can vouch for the fact, from actual observation, in in-
numerable instances. Other characteristic marks of this peculiar peo-
ple are, the deep brown or yellow brown colour, which covers their
^vhole body, but docs not tinge the white of their eyes ; the hand and
foot small, in proportion to the rest of the body ; they are straight, well
made, and tall ; hair black and curled, with scarcely any beard. The
Hottentot voice, also, is too peculiar to be mistaken, particularly that
^ singular clacking sound, which ever\' traveller has remarked.

This coast, to the north of the fourteenth degree of south latitude,

' is said to be rich in shells of great variety and peculiar beauty. But

' I think if the seacoast which fronts these sandy deserts was carefully

examined by expert divers a few fathoms without the surf, the largest

collection of valuable shells would be produced ever witnessed in any

part of the world. The quantity is inexhaustible ; but the heavy surf

316 OGDEN'S HARBOUR. [1829.

thtit thunders along these shores, without cessation, at all seasons of
the year, prevents these beautiful shells being gathered in a perfect
state, unless by rakes or divers without tlie surf

May Sth. — On Tuesday, the 5th of May, we got under way and
steered to the north, with a line breeze from soulh-by-east, and fair
weather. On Friday, the Sth, we passed Cape Cross, which is a
projecting point, extending about one mile into the sea, and fornaing
partial anchorage, on its north side, in from twelve to seven fathoms
of water, sand and coral bottom. The coast between this and Wal-
wich Bay (Bay of Whales) is entirely free from dangers two cables'
length from the beach, with from four to six fathoms of water, sand
and coral bottom. The coast is distinguished by white sand-hills,
some of which are moderately elevated, and fall suddenly into the
sea. Cape Cross is in latitude 21° 53' S., long. 13° 41' E. Varia-
tion per azimuth 20° 15' westerly.

We still continued examining the coast to the north, by daylight,
lianging to windward at night, and always starting in the morning
from the place last examined. We found the coast to the north of
Cape Cross low and sandy, running into elevated mountains at a
short distance inland from the shore of St. Amboses, which is in lati-
tude 20° 57' S., long. 13° 34' E. Here an extensive reef of coral
and lava rocks runs off in a westerly direction, to the distance of
about three miles ; then turns to the north, and runs parallel with the
coast for five miles ; forming a beautiful harbour of smooth water,
which, at the mianimous request of my crew, I named Ogden's Har-
bour, in honour of the ill-fated William Ogden. At half-tide, this reef
is on a level with the surface of the sea ; and from its western side
the water deepens so gradually that at the distance of four miles there
is not more than five fathoms, Avith foul ground.

This fine harbour, or lagoon, of course, opens to the north, and the
depth of water around the northern end or point of the reef, and up
the lagoon, is from seven to four fathoms, sand and coral bottom. In
entering it, however, a ship must not come nearer than half a mile of
the northern extremity of the reef; and after bringing the northern
breakers to bear west-south-west, she may haul to the south, and
work as far up the lagoon as is deemed requisite, with perfect safety,
keeping the reef best on board. In this lagoon and its vicinity many
cargoes of fine fish might be caught, in size and quality nearly equal
to our salmon. They may be taken in any quantities, either with a
seine or by a hook and line.

At the distance of about two leagues from the head of this lagoon,
in an east-north-east direction, there is a small village, inhabited by
about two hundred natives of the Cimbebas tribe ; a dark curly-headed
nation, differing but very little from the proper Hottentots. There
are also many fine springs of water, of an excellent quality, in the
valley where this village is situated ; from which it may be inferred
that this would be a fine place for a rendezvous to establish a trade
with the interior of the country.

There can be no doubt that a. vast field for commercial enterprise
remains to be explored in this part of Africa. Between the northern

■1*^

. May.] GREAT FISH BAY. 317

boundary of the Cape district and the southern boundary of the Por-
tuguese district, there is an immense waste of country, extending over
about eight hundred miles of latitude, and more than twice that distance
of longitude, almost entirely unknown to civilized man. I ardently hope
and trust that my country will be the first to engage in exploring this
interesting region of the v/orld, and open its boundless stores of riches
to her adventurous sons. I, for one, should glory in leading the way,
being perfectly willing to encounter all the personal hazard which
might attend a solitary pilgrimage across the continent for the purpose
of opening a permanent and lucrative trade with the different tribes
and nations. If the general government withhold its patronage from
such a laudable undertaking, a jomt-stock company of able capitalists
would be all-sufficient for effecting the purpose, and would be morally
certain of golden returns.

May I3th. — The coast between this place and Cape Frio, or Cold
Cape, where we arrived on Wednesday, the 13th, is low and sandy,
with moderately elevated hills a few miles inland. There are also
many shoals and reefs, running into the sea, from one to two miles
ofi-shore. In many places the depth of water does not exceed ten
fathoms, over a bottom of sand and coral, five or six miles from the
land. Cape Frio is in latitude 18^ 22' S., long. 11° 59' E. Varia-
tion per azimuth 19'^ 54' westerly.

The land of Cape Frio is high, and continues so for six or seven
leagues to the northward ; but the shore is low and sandy, as it is to
the southward. This cape, however, aflbrds no shelter to ships.
There is said to be a river called L'Angra Fria, or Cold Creek, a few
miles to the north of the cape ; but at the time of our passing this
place there was no river open.

3Iai/ 17 th. — We continued steering to the north until Sunday, the
17th of May, when we arrived at Great Fish Bay ; and at eleven,
A. M., anchored in three fathoms of water, near the shore, on the
south-west side of the bay, sandy bottom. The north point of Tiger
Peninsula, which forms the west side of the bay, is in latitude 16^ 30'
S., long. 11^ 38' E. The coast between this bay and Cape Frio is
a barren sandy desert, and entirely free from dangers one mile from
the beach ; but the bank of soundings extends a long way to the west-
ward. The River Nourse, which was said to have been discovered in
1824, by L'Espiegle, was closed at the time we passed this part of
the coast.

Fish Bay is formed on the west by Tiger Peninsula, which is very
low, and seven leagues in length from north-by-west to south-by -east.
The greatest breadth of the bay is at its entrance, which is more
than two leagues. The peninsula is all sand, and the isthmus by
which it is joined to the mainland is not more than one-quarter of u
mile broad. The eastern shore of the bay is formed of high barren
hills, of a brown sandy appearance. The depth of water at the en-
trance of the bay is sixteen fathoms, gradually decreasing as you
advance to the south, towards the head of the bay, to fifteen, ten,
seven, five, and three fathoms, sandy bottom near the head of the
bay. There are no dangers in turning up tliis bay, if you give either

318 CIMBEBAS TRIBE. [1829-

shore a distance of two cables' length ; and when once at the head of
this spacious harbour, and at anchor in five or four fathoms of water,
you may lie in perfect safety, with one anchor ahead, all the year
round.

Ships in running along this coast will often judge themselves farther
off-shore than they really are, on account of the light sandy colour of
the coast, and the extreme haziness of the atmosphere tliat gene,rally
prevails. I would advise navigators, on all occasions, unless they
wish to make aliarbour, to give this coast a good berth, as there is a
tremendous heavy swell thundering in upon it all the year round,
from Cape Negro to the Cape of Good Hope. This remarkable
swell, which incessantly sets in from the west-south-west, renders it
verj- unpleasant for ships in calms, wliich often prevail in the night.
I have frequently seen these rollers break in four fathoms of water ;
and they often threaten to break at the distance of three or four miles
from the land, in seven and eight fathoms of water, near the full and
change of the moon.

Fish Bay is one of the first places in the world for fishing with a
seine, by which thousands of barrels of excellent fish may be caught
in the course of a year. This might be made a first-rate business, by
taldng the fish to the Portuguese colonies, a little farther north, and
exclianging them for the products of the country ; or they might be
taken to St. Helena, or to the Brazil coast, where they would com-
mand a ready market and an excellent price.

May I8lh. — On Monday, at one, P. M., we landed on the south-
east side of the bay, with the intention of making an excursion into
the country. We were met on the beach by a small party of the
Cimbebas tribe, who gave us a very pressing invitation to accompany
them to their village, which was about ten miles from the coast, in the
direction of east-by-south. It is situated in a well-u^atered valley of
three miles in length, and two in breadth, surromided by moderately
elevated hills. The springs which water it are never dried up, by the
longest drouglits, as we were assured by the natives.

The villages of these people are neither large nor populous ; never
exceeding one liundred and fifty huts, and about four hundred inhabit-
ants. The former are constructed of closely-woven mats of coarse
grass, or of the fibres of some plant. The two sides generally cor-
respond with each other, as do also the two ends, with the exception
lliat there is a door or opening in one end, just large enough for the
occupants to creep in and out. Each hut is covered with an arched
or sloping roof, supported by upright posts fixed in the ground, and
thatched with matting. The materials are all so light that they can be
removed at a very short notice, and without much trouble. I have
seen them taken down and put together again in thirty-five minutes.
The value of one of these huts is that of a sheep.

The habitations of the chiefs are constructed with much more
la])Our, skill, and taste ; and are consequently of proportionably greater
value. One of these has eight or ten posts along the sides, and is
covered with palm-leaves, sewed together in a zigzag manner, wiih
a supple creeping plant. They are often enclosed with a circular

■♦•'

May.] CIMBEBAS TRIBE— PORT ALEXANDER. ^ 319

fence of small stakes, stuck in the ground, so close together that a
rabbit cannot pass between them.

The state of society, moral character, manners, habits, and customs
of this people are in many respects similar to those I have already
described in this chapter ; and where they differ, the balance is in
favour of the Hottentots of the higher latitude. These Cimbebas are
much more disgustingly filthy than the otiiers, both as to clothes and
food ; but I do not believe them to be cannibals, as some voyagers have
reported. They appear to have no idea of female chastity, or the
sanctity of conjugal contracts ; and the open barefaced manner in
which wives and daughters were offered to my seamen, although I
strictly forbade all intercourse, was too disgusting to admit of palliation
or excuse.

We were absent from the vessel more than a week, penetrating
many leagues into the interior, and collecting much interesting informa-
tion tending to confirm my previous opinions of the unparalleled commer-
cial advantages which must result from opening an avenue for traffic in
this part of Africa. Had it been my good fortune to have been accom-
panied by one or more gentlemen of science, the animal, vegetable,
and mineral kingdoms of this part of Africa are teeming with new
and rich materials, sufficient to have employed their pens for a length
of time. The crude notes which I took myself would afford very
little satisfaction to the erudite reader ; I shall therefore proceed with
my narrative, and refer him to those vivid descriptions which other
travellers have already laid before the public.

May 21th. — On Wednesday, at two, P. M., we returned to the ves-
sel, and at four, P. M., we were under way, and stretcliing out of the
bay to the north, with a fine breeze from south-south-west, and fair
weather. We examined the coast to Cape Negro, and the entrance
of Port Alexander, which we found to be a safe and commodious har-
bour for ships of any size, where they may lie in perfect safety, at all
seasons of the year.

Port Alexander is admirably adapted for inland communications with
the natives ; and there could not be a better place for jerking beef
than the peninsula which forms the west side of the harbour. This
bay abounds with fish of various kinds, which may be caught in any
quantities with a seine. Fresh water may be had on the sq^uth side of
the bay, by digging a few feet below the surface of the earth. Ships
that -anchor here will find natives, who are very shy ; but with a little
kind treatment their confidence is easily acquired, and will be followed
by acts of courtesy and hospitality. Supplies of sheep and bullocks
may be obtained of them at your own prices. Their first apprehen-
sion is that every stranger is an enemy and a raan-stealer. Perish
the traffic ! The outer part of this bay is a fine place for ships to
lie in the month of August, for the purpose of taking right whales.

The coast between Great Fish Bay and Port Alexander is clear of
dangers one mile from the shore. Neither are there any dangers in
the way of vessels entering the last-mentioned harbour ; only give the
sandy point of the northern part of the peninsula a berth of half a

320 ST. PHILIP DE BE^'GUELA. [1829.

mile. The entrance of Port Alexander, or the north point oi the penin-
sula, is in lat. i^5^ 45' S.

June 4th. — From this port we continued steering to the north, keep-
ing the'boats close in-shore to examine the coast, until Thursday, the
4th day of June ; wlien, at two, P. M., we came to an anchor in the
port of St. Phihp de Benguela, in four fathoms of water, sand and muddy
bottom, about half a mile off-shore.

We liad now reached the capital of an African Idngdom, the seat
of one of her " hundred thrones," the limits of whose territories have
never been accurately defined by geographers. Though formerly
governed by its own monarchs, the subsequent incursions of the bar-
barous Giagas laid waste the country ; and the protection of the Por-
tuguese, who have built several forts along the coast, has not been able
to restore it to its former importance.

The kingdom of Benguela is generally supposed to be bounded on
the north by Angola ; on the east by the river Rimba ; on the south by
Mataman ; and on the west by the Atlantic. Its coast begins at Cape
Negro on the south, and extends to Cape Ledo on the north : that is,
from lat. 15^ 41' to 9^ 20' S. Cape Negro forms its south-Mest ex-
tremity, and is distinguished by a lofty pillar of marble or alabaster,
on which is displayed the armorial insignia of the Braganza house.
This beautiful column was erected by Bartholomew Dias, in the year
1486 ; who the same j'ear erected a marble cross on Pedestal Point,
at Angra Pequena. The principal towns of this kingdom are the fol-
lowing : — Old Benguela, situated upon a mountain ; St. Philip, or
New Benguela, the capital, where we now lay at anchor ; Manikendo,
and Kuschil.

St. Philip, the capital, is a place of considerable trade, and next in
consequence to St. Paul de Loando, the capital of Angola. I am
sorry to add that its principal business had heretofore been a traffic .
in human flesh — being frequented by the Brazilians for the purchase
of slaves, who are collected like cattle in the interior, and driven down
to the coast for sale. At the period of our arrival there were no
less than four Brazilian brigs nearly loaded with these unhappy human
beings.

From Cape Negro a range of mountains extends northward, giving
existence to the springs of many fine rivers ; such as the Nika, St.
Francisco, Moreno, Farsa, Kuneni, and Canton-belle. The water of
the last of these rivers is of a strong saline quality, and is collected
into pits by the natives, for the purpose of manufacturing salt. The
mouth of this river, which is sheltered from the winds, is about sixteen
feet deep. On its north the sea forms a gulf, which the Dutch call
Good Bay, on account of its being an excellent w'atering-place.

The natural productions of this province are similar to those of
Angola and Congo ; while vegetables and fruits of many different cli-
mates have been naturalized, and flourish exuberantly. The country
immediately surrounding St. Philip abounds with oranges, pineapples,
melons, plantains, bananas, palms, dates, cocoanuts, guavas, figs,
grapes, and a variety of other fruits. The vine flourishes finely, form-
ing natural arbours and alleys to shelter you from the fervid rays of

June.l ST. PHILIP'S BONNET. *»32I

an African sun. Cassia and tamarinds also flourish ; and from the
humidity of the soil, there are two fruit seasons in the year.

In entering the port of St. Phihp de Benguela, the town and inland
comitry present a beautiful appearance. The houses of the town have
all whitewashed walls and red roofs, which give them a very gay and
picturesque appearance from the offing, and also from the anchorage.
The shores around the bay are low^ and sandy, with the exception of
the westernmost point, which is composed of white sandy cliffs. But
'vvhen we look eastwardly to the inland countr}-, the scenery is charm-
ing. Ranges of verdant hills, on which blooming spring for ever
smiles, gradually rise above each other, while wood-crowned moun-
tains rear their majestic heads in the distance, and give a sublime
linish to the beautiful picture.

The most remarkable feature presented to the view of the marinery.
however, is the summit of an elevated bluff headland on the west point
of the bay, called by the Portuguese Ponta do Chapeo ; but known to
seamen by the familiar term of St. Philip's Bonnet. It is a clump of
trees, which grow so thick and close together that they seem to have
been cut with a pruning-knife into the shape of a boeuffetiers bonnet ;
and though they are very luxuriant, all the neighbourhood below is
■quite barren. The head which wears this bonnet is a point of land so
much elevated that it can be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of
twelve or fifteen leagues. It is composed of materials like those of
the cliff below — granite, sandstone, slate, &:c.

St. Philip's Bonnet and the town of Benguela are nearly on the
same parallel, at the distance of about six miles from each other ; but
the bay, from its extreme eastern and western points, is seven or eight
miles broad, and three miles deep to the beach. Within the transit
line of the two points, and more than half-way over to the east, the
depth of water is seventeen fathoms, which gradually decreases to six
fathoms, within one mile of the shore, mud and clay bottom, with the
flag-staff and the church in a line, which is the best anchorage for
ships. Smaller vessels, however, had better lie closer in-shore, in four
fathoms of water.

At this place you will have the regular land and sea-breezes for the
greater part of the year round. The sea-breezes blow from west-by-
north to west-by-south, when the land-winds blow from south-east to
east-south-east, but very light. The former never come in with suffi-
cient force to render it unpleasant for vessels of any class to ride at
anchor, which they can do in perfect safety air the year round ; but
these winds often bring in a heavy westerly swell, w4iich at times ren-
ders landing unsafe. The landing is near a large boat-house, on the
beach, in front of the town, at the water's edge ; and passengers are
generally carried by the natives from the boat to the beach, in order
to prevent their getting wet.

The town of Benguela is irregularly built along the curve of the
beach, perhaps three hundred yards from the water. It consists of
about two hundred houses, mostly of one story and a half, with a
population not exceeding twelve hundred souls, of which two hundred
are Portuguese, who lead a very indolent kind of life. Immediately

X *

822 BAHIA DAS VAC AS. [1829.

in front of the anchorage stands the fort of St. Phihp, mounting tliirty-
six guns ; to the westward of it, at tlie edge of the beach, is a small
five-gun battery, and north of Fort St. Phihp is a battery of eighteen
guns. All these fortifications, however, are so much out of order, that
were a ten-gun brig to open her fire upon the town for ten minutes, the
inhabitants would fly without firing a gun.

No good water can be obtained here, except in the rainy season ; at
all other times it is extremely brackish, and very unwholesome. Neitlier
can it be procured, such as it is, without considerable labour and diffi-
culty ; the fatigue of rolling the casks one-third of a mile, and then
bailing the water out of wells. Provisions, however, and refreshments
of almost every kind are readily obtained. Bullocks, sheep, goats,
hogs, poultry, fruit, and vegetables may be had in any quantities, and
at very moderate prices. You may also, at almost any time of the
year, find a ready market here for a quantity of domestic goods, at a
liberal price ; and purchase in exchange hides of difl'erent kinds, ivory,
ostrich feathers, and gold-dust. The bay affords excellent fishing with
a seine, and very fine sport with a hook and line.

This bay is sometimes called Cow's Bay {Bahia das Vacas), on
account of the vast number of sea-cows which used to frequent it in
former times. The chief value of these animals is their ivory tusks,
■Y/hich, being harder than those of the elephant, and not so liable to
turn yellow, are much more esteemed by dentists. Their hides
are also valuable for harness leather, and the skins of the young ones
make very handsome coverings for trunks.

The land in the bottom of the bay is double, high, ragged, and prin-
cipally barren near the shore ; but the valley immediately back of the
town is rich in soil, and exceedingly fertile, yielding an abundance of
fruit of difierent kinds, and of an excellent quality, A great quantity
of corn and beans is raised near the Bay of Cows, and tlie inhabitants
rear cattle of the best kind in great numbers. They also gather a
iiind of odoriferous wood called kakongo, which is held in high esti-
mation. Mines of copper are said to exist in the vicinity of the baj'',
and the mountains are supposed to contain silver. The mountainous
districts swarm with wild beasts of various kinds.

Most travellers agree in pronouncing the climate of Benguela ex-
tremely insalubrious to strangers ; but this, in my opinion, is greatly
owing to their not paying proper attention to diet and regimen. The
4ate visitation of the cholera has taught the world a useful lesson on
•this subject ; and we now know by experience that the great secret of
preserving health is " moderation in all things ;" temperance in eating,
t-'lothing, and exercise, as well as in drinking ; abstinence from ex-
cesses of all kinds. By acting on this principle, every climate will be
found comparatively salubrious, and its atmosphere may be inhaled
with impunity. Far be it from me to invade the province of the
/medical faculty ; but it is my deliberate opinion, founded on careful
observation, and confirmed by experience, that more diseases are
caused by bad water than by bad air; and I would advise all stran-
gers who visit this particular part of the African coast, to be very
cautious of driiiking the water, uidess it be procured at a considerable

June.] BENGUELA— DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 323

distance from the shore. A neglect of this caution is generally fol-
lowed by a severe and dangerous diarrhoea or flux, especially with
those who eat freely of fruit, and make too liberal use of ardent spirits
at the same time. But by taking their water from the inland moun-
tain springs, and avoiding exposure to noonday suns and nocturnal
damps, with sufficient employment to keep up a gentle perspiration,
they will experience little inconvenience from the climate of Ben-
guela.

The wild animals that inhabit the interior are often seen in the
forests that border this part of the coast ; such as elephants, leopards,
zebras, lions, foxes, hyenas, antelopes of many kinds, buffaloes, bul-
locks, sheep, goats, wild hogs, and a great variety of monkeys and
other small animals. I have often seen the elephant, buffalo, and bul-
lock near the beach of the seashore, between this place and Great
Fish Bay. In the interior districts the variety of beasts, birds, ser-
pents, and other reptiles, insects, and plants is truly wonderful, I had
almost said infinite, and well worth the attention of naturalists. Some
philosophers maintain that for every passion, propensity, disposition,
desire, affection, or thought of the human mind, there is in outward
nature a corresponding animal, vegetable, and mineral, good or bad ;
and that all things which exist in external nature are intended as out-
ward manifestations of mental or moral attributes. If this be indeed
the case, Africa must comprise a strange mixture of good and evil,
truth and error, in the minds of her sable population, where heaven
and hell must be commingled in chaotic confusion. But I must leave
this subject to the learned ; my province being to point out nautical
dangers, and teach others how to shun them.

There are many fine anchoring places between Benguela and Port
Alexander, of which I will mention the most conspicuous. Point
Salinas, which lies in latitude 12° 53' S., long. 12^ 5J' E., is dis-
tinguished by salt-ponds, which are near the seashore. This point
runs about four miles into the sea, with a reef rimning from it ofl-shore
about one mile.

Between this and Point St. Francisco the shores are bold, having
no dangers more than half a mile off-shore, until you come up with the
Fritns, which are three rocks, standing about two miles off-shore, a
little to the north of the last-mentioned point, between which and the
Friars there is good anchorage. But off-shore from this point there is
an extensive reef, running into the sea, with hidden dangers, on which
the sea does not always break. In doubling this point, ships should
give it a berth of two miles.

The river St. Nicholas has a reef on the south of its entrance, which
is in latitude 14° 20' S., with not more than ten feet of water on it, at a
mile and a half off-shore. Five leagues farther south is a small bay,
called by some Village Bay, in which there is good anchorage, in from
ten to four fathoms of water, about one mile in a northerly direction
from the south point of the bay, in sandy bottom. At this place I have
seen elephants and other animals, besides numbers of the natives.

Still farther south, in latitude 15° 12', is Little Fish Bay, the entrance
of which is two leagues broad, formed by Cape Euspa on the north

324 VISIT TO A SLAVE BRIG. [1829.

and Browne's Point on the south. Here the water is deep ; but as we
advance into the bay, it suddenly becomes more shallow, until it is re-
duced to twenty fathoms ; it then lessens gradually to six or eight
fathoms.

Half a mile from the head of this bay, on its south shore, is a deep
valley, which is covered with a forest of large timber, in the openings
of which vegetation appeared very luxuriant. At the mouth of a small
river which empties into the head of this bay, we saw elephants, and
freely communicated with the natives, who were very anxious to open
a trade with us, by exchanging cattle, sheep, hogs, and vegetables, for
cutlery of any kind, beads, and old clothes, particularly red flannel
shirts.

The next conspicuous land to the south is Cape Negro, before men-
tioned, in latitude 15*=* 41' S., long. 11° 57' E., on which is erected the
celebrated alabaster pillar, with the arms of Portugal ; and eight miles
south-west-by-south from this cape is the entrance to the port of Alex-
ander, already described.

In speaking of the Bay of Cows, at Benguela, I ought to have
added that a sand-bank puts off from the north point of the bay to the
distance of one mile, which it is necessary to avoid, as there is always
a swell rolling in upon it, with a considerable degree of violence. The
south and west sides of the bay are entirely clear of dangers two
cables' length from the shore.

CHAPTER VI.

Visit to a Slave Brig — Cruelty and Suffering — Slaves flogged to Death — Strength
of conjugal Affection in an African — An affecting Scene — Beard the Tigers in
their Den — Cowardice of Guilt — How to abolish the Slave-trade — English
Colony of SierraLeone — United States' Colony of Liberia — Sail from Benguela —
Homeward-bound — Island of Ascension — The Fourth of July, and a vertical Sun
— Arrive at New-York — Kind Reception by the Owners, and a still kinder one
by somebody else.

I HAVE already informed the reader, that when I entered the Bay of
Benguela there were no less than four slave dealers from Brazil, wait-
ing to complete their cargoes. One of these receptacles of human
misery lay at anchor within fifty fathoms of the Antarctic ; and I was
so distressingly annoyed by the shrieks and groans of its hapless in-
mates, the wretched victims of unfeeling avarice, that I resolved to visit
the vessel, and make an offer of such medical aid as might have a
tendency to alleviate the anguish of the sufferers. With this determina-
tion I ordered a boat to be manned, and boarded the brig without
ceremony.

i I was received by the officers on deck with a certain degree of
courtesy, not unmingled with surprise ; which, when I made known the
object of my visit, assumed an expression of derision or contempt.
Firmly adhering to my original purpose, however, I insisted upon

June.] HORRID BARBARITY. 325

seeing and, if necessar}% administering to those sufferers whose audible
complaints had so powerfully excited my sympathy. The captain,
gave orders that my demand should be complied with ; and, gracious
Heaven ! what a horrible spectacle was presented to my view !

If the reader has ever been on board of a Hudson River market-
sloop, loaded with calves and sheep for the city slaughter-houses, he
may form some faint idea of this Brazilian slave brig. A range of
pens, or bins, occupied each side of the main-deck, from the cat-head to
the main-chains, in which were confined such a number of the slaves
as were permitted to come upon deck at one time. In a line with the
main hatchway, on each side, was erected a bulkhead, or partition,
separating the men from the women ; while a narrow passage remained
open to the gangway, abaft the sternmost pen, or between that and the
quarter-deck.

The slaves, perfectly naked, were stowed in rows, fore and aft, in a
sitting or crouching posture; and most of the men had their faces be-
tween their knees, either indulging in a moody silence, or mournfully
chanting, in a low voice, some plaintive song of their native villages.
The feelings of the females were of course more clamorously ex-
pressed, in spite of all their tyrants' exertions to keep them quiet. In
passing along the deck between these two ranges of despairing human
beings, I encountered such mute imploring glances, such appealing
looks of misery, such piteous supplicating expressions of countenance,
such torrents of tears, that looked like pearls on ebony, as completely
and totally unmanned me. My ow'n tears fell like rain, and the poor
negroes gazed on the strange phenomenon of a whhe man's sympathy
with wonder, doubt, and admiration. Even the females had not been
allowed a rag to cover their nakedness.

After having taken a cursory view of the whole heart-sickening
scene, my attention vv as attracted to the after range of pens on the star-
board side, which contained about one-half the females then on deck.
Here, as on the opposite side of the deck, the two sexes were separated
by a partition or bulkhead eight feet in height ; near which were two
women evidently writhing in the agonies of death. Partly from the
officers, and partly from their fellow-sufferers, I gathered the shameful
facts that these two dying wretches had been reduced to their present
situation by repeated applications of the lash, as a punishment for their
piteous cries and heart-rending wailings. This worse than savage
brutality had elicited those shrieks and groans which first arrested my
attention on board the Antarctic. They were wives and mothers ;
their infants had been torn from their breasts and thrown upon the
ground, either to perish with hunger among the grass, or to become
the prey of beasts, or the victims of venomous reptiles — or, possibly,
to be preserved and nourished by strangers. In the phrensied paroxysms
of maternal anguish, they had called for their infants — for their hus-
bands — for their parents — for their brothers, sisters, and friends ; and
for this natural involuntary ebullition of feehng, their bodies had been
cruelly lacerated with stripes, until nature sank exhausted, no more to
revive. Their breasts were distended with the undrawn nutriment for
the lack of which their helpless babes perhaps were perishing — it

326 AFFECTING SCENE. [182&.

was oozing in streams from their nipples, mingled Avitli their own
blood.

On learning these facts, indignation enabled me to suppress those
softer feelings which were before nearly choking me ; while the hard-
ened barbarians around me wore sardonic smiles upon their faces.
The captains of two vessels were present, and several oflicers. For
the moment, I impiously wished to be armed with tlio lightnings of
heaven, to punish the guilty, and terminate the sufterings of their victims
on die spot. As this was not practicable, however, I gave vent to my
feelings in a torrent of invective, pouring upon them volleys of vitupera-
tion. I cannot recollect what I said ; but for some time I gave them
broadside after broadside, without receiving a single shot in return.
They received my fire in silent astonishment, suffering me to rake them
fore and aft, until my magazine became exhausted, and I paused for
lack of ammunition.

In the mean time, the two especial objects of my compassion were
released from their suilerings by death ; and just as the visiting captain
had commenced some observation in excuse or palliation of their con-
duct, our attention was arrested by another object. One of the male
captives, a well-made, good-looking man, of about twenty-five years of
age, had contrived, all manacled as he was, to scale the bulkhead, from
the top of which, being unable to use his arms, he fell into the females*
apartment, where his head struck a ring-bolt with such force as to
fracture his scull. It was the husband of the youngest of the two women
who had just breathed their last. For a few moments he lay sense-
less from the effects of the blow ; but soon came to himself sufficiently
to understand what was said to him. In the next moment he recog-
nised the dead body of his wife, which he franticly strove to clasp in
his manacled arms ; and, with a yell of despair, endeavom-ed to awaken
her with his caresses from the sleep of death,while the wound in his head
was pouring forth a torrent of blood on the inanimate object of his
piteous lamentations.

The captain of the brig now spoke, and ordered one of the officers
to tear the poor fellow from the corpse of his wife, and to stow him on
the other side of the deck. He raised his mute-imploring eye to me,
in which I read a speedy termination of his miseries, and an ardent
desire to expire on the bosom of his wife. The officer advanced to
seize him ; but this was too much for me to witness. I sprang before
the dying man, drew my dirk, and ordered the officer to desist on the
peril of instant death.

" Hold !" I exclaimed, " you shall not molest him. Back ! back !
on your life ! No man shall touch him, unless he cut his way through
my body. You have butchered the wife of his bosom ; he is now
dying from the effects of your savage barbarity ; and they shall not be
separated, until his spirit is reunited to hers, in that blessed world
where fiends of hell like you can never come. Back ! or your blood
shall mingle with the negroe's !"

The officer recoiled a few paces, while the others stood gazing at
me and each other in mute amazement. I stood fixed in my purpose^
however ; and not one of the conscience-struck, guilt-appalled, cowardly

June.] SLAVE TRADE. 327

wretches, nor the whole combined, could muster up sufficient courage
to oppose my single arm. Tlie dying captive's struggle was short.
In a lew minutes more he breathed his last, on the cold inanimate lips
of her he loved more than he feared death. I then returned my Uirk
into its sheath, and again addressed the embarrassed officers :

- *• Step forward, inhuman monsters ! and contemplate the effects of
your savage barbarity — your triple murder. Look there ! on the re-
mains of those three poor victims of your avarice and cruelty ! Think
too of their hapless infants ; which, if not happily already gone to meet
their parents in a better world, are fated never to enjoy a parent's tender-
ness in this. How will you answer for crimes like these before the
God of justice ? I do not marvel at your cowardice, for it is the in«
separable concomitant of guilt like yours. I do not wonder that yon
turn pale at my just rebuke, and tremble there like culprits at the gang-
way. But how much more will you tremble when you are arraigned
before the bar of Divine Justice, and hear that voice which brought the
universe into existence pronounce the awful sentence — ' Inasmuch as
ye have not shown mercy to one of the least of these, ye have not done
it unto me.' "

With these words I advanced to the gangway, and was about to de*
part, when the captain of the brig expressed a hope that I would not
leave them in anger, but that I would walk below, and join them in zr
glass of wine. I promptly declined the proffered courtesy, assuring
him that it gave me very unpleasant feelings to breathe the same air
wuth men engaged in this abominable traffic ; but were I to drink with
them, I should feel guilty of an act of wanton impiety that had stained
the untarnished lustre of the flag I sailed under.

They retorted, with a most provoking assurance, that great numbers-
of American vessels were at that moment engaged in the same traffic ;
vessels wliich they knew were owned by citizens of the United States,
commanded by American captains, and manned by American and
English seamen.

I made no reply, but stepped into my boat, and was soon on board
the Antarctic, with food for reflection sufficient to last me during th&
passage from Africa to America. Nor was this the only revolting
scene I was doomed to witness, connected with this infamous system
of piracy, while I was detained at Benguela. Being on shore on Fri-
day, the 5th of June, I saw about fifty of these unhappy beings hand-
cuffed in pairs, and drove into town like so many yoke of cattle, h^
soldiers on horseback. As the poor wretches passed me, I could sec
the traces of tears on ahnost every cheek, and from some eyes they
were streaming in torrents. They had been driven so far, and with so
little mercy, that many of them were quite lame, their foot-prints being
marked with blood ! But still, if any of them faltered or lagged a little
behind the rest, their inhuman drivers would start them up again by
several severe cuts of the lash on their naked bodies, with as much
unconcern as if they were driving so many bullocks to market.

How is this horrible traffic to be finally and totally abolished ? This
is a question of vital importance to the cause of humanity. The
United States, in conjunction with England and France, have effectetl

328 SIERRA LEONE COLONY. [1829.

much ; but much more yet remains to be done. The root, the source,
the foundation of the evil is in the ignorance and superstition of the
poor negroes themselves. Could they become only partially civilized,
and sufficiently enlightened to see the beauty of the plainest moral
precepts of our religion, they would no longer feel themselves obligated
to obey llie unjust mandates of a ruthless despot, who levies war on
his neighbours, not for any real or imaginary injury received, but for
the sole purpose of raising a revenue by the sale of his captives.
This state of things can only be brought about by the labours of mis-
sionaries, patiently pursued for a series of years.

However severe the edicts which nations maj' pass against the
slave-trade, they will never deter from engaging in it a certain class of
reckless adventurers which are found in every country ; M'hose mollo
is " Neck or nothing." They are willing to run the risk of dying the
death of pirates, in consideration of the immense emolument which
attends a successful issue of the perilous enterprise. Like every
species of smuggled goods, slaves will always find a ready market,
and a price proportionably high to the hazard of introducing them ;
and so long as a door remains open for disposing of human beings, the
progress of reform in this particular will be very slow.

It is comparatively of but little use to lock up the mouths of the
Senegal, the Gambia, the Zaire, the Coanza, and the Cameroon's, or
any other river of Africa, while the whole extent of coast remains open,
and may be landed on at different seasons of tlie year. Nothing but
a total unqualified prohibition of this soul-debasing traffic by every
power in both hemispheres, particularly by those of South America,
can afford any rational hope of its final abolition. And even then,
there is too much reason to fear that men-stealers will still exist, and
that planters will be found of natures sufficiently diabolical to reward
them for their labours of barbarity.

England and the United States have set the world some glorious
examples on this important subject. The colony of the former at
Sierra Leone, and that of the latter at Liberia, on the west coast of
Africa, are both in a flourishing condition ; and their projectors and
founders merit the prayers and blessings of philanthropists in every sec-
tion of the globe. Sierra Leone lies between the seventh and tenth
degrees of north latitude, and derived its name from mountains abound-
ing with lions. This is the nearest point of the African coast to the
most western point of South America, on the Brazilian coast, the dis-
tance from Pernambuco to Sierra Leone hein^ onlv about five hundred
leagues.

The English settlement of Sierra Leone was formed in the year
1787, for the express purpose of labouring to civilize the Africans. In
1825, four years previous to my visiting Benguela, it contained eighteen
thousand inhabitants ; of whom about twelve thousand consist of lib-
erated Africans, who for the most part occupy the parishes in the
mountains, where they inhabit villages, surrounded by tracts of culti-
vated ground, and containing schools for both sexes. In this quarter
the English have made the greatest exertions to limit, if not to abolish,
the trade in slaves ; but, in the language of M. Malte Brun, " philan-

June.l COLONY OF LIBERIA. 329

thropy, and penal statutes, and vigilance have been found but feeble
barriers, when opposed to the cupidity of unprincipled traders."

The British cruisers have been very active and successful in cap-
turing many of the slave-ships which still swarm upon the African
coast, as appears by the great number of liberated slaves which are
every year added to the colony. The landing of these cargoes, ac-
cording to the writer just quoted, is often a very affecting scene. The
poor creatures delivered from the hold of a slave-ship, faint and ema-
ciated by harsh treatment and disease, when received with kindness and
sympathy by the inhabitants, among whom perhaps they recognise a
brother, a sister, or countryman, whom they had supposed long since
dead, but whom they are astonished to see clothed and clean, are over-
whelmed with feelings which they find it difficult to express. On their
arrival, those of a proper age are married, and sent to the adjacent vil-
lages. A house and lot is appointed to each family ; they are supported
one year by government, at the expiration of which they are obliged to
provide for themselves. The captured children are also sent fo vil-
lages, where they are kept at school till married, which is always at an
early age. At the head of each village is a missionary, who acts in
the double capacity of minister and schoolmaster. The exertions of
the African Institution, aided by the missionaries of the Church of
England, have effected a remarkable improvement in the morals of the
inhabitants, who are generally contented and industrious. They have
opened several avenues of profitable trade with the natives of the in-
terior, and their external commerce is rapidly increasing. But I regret
to add, that the climate of Sierra Leone is extremely deleterious to the
health of Europeans. No less than seven governors have died since
1824, and only three soldiers survive out of a whole regiment.
■ The United States' colony of Liberia, which, being of a more recent
date, is yet in its infancy, is situated about two hundred and fifty miles
south-east of Sierra Leone, at Cape Montserado, or Mesurado. Its
history is briefly as follows : —

"In December, 1821, the American Colonization Society effected
the purchase of a tract of territory" at Cape Mesurado, on which a set-
tlement was made soon afterward. The colony at first was disturbed
by the native blacks, who, in November, 1822, made two attacks upon
it in large bodies, but were repulsed with great loss. Since that period
the colony has received continual accessions from the United States,
and rapidly improving. Additional purchases have been made in
the vicinity, particularly on St. Paul's River, north of the Mesurado,
and Stockton Creek, which opens an inland communication between
the two rivers.

" The first and principal settlement is at Monrovia (so named in
honour of President Monroe), on Cape Mesurado, which is fortified,
with a government-house and stores, churches and schools. Farming
settlements are formed at Caldwell, on St. Paul's River, and on Stock-
ton Creek. Several trading factories are established along the coast,
over which the society have a qualified jurisdiction for one hundred
and fifty miles from Cape Mount to Trade-town. This jurisdiction
secures to them the trade of the country, and precludes all Europeans

330 iJOLONY OF LIBERIA. [1829.'

from any possession within these limits. It also eniibles them to put a
Slop to the shive-tradc'."* The population of the colony is rapidly in-
creasing, and probably now amounts to above fifteen hundred. The
country abounds in cattle, goats, swine, and fowls, and in most of the
fruits and productions of other tropical climates.

Cape Mesurado is an elevated promontory, almost perpendicular on
the north side, but with a gradual declivity towards the sea on the
south. The natives in the vicinity of this place have been noted as
very superior to those farther eastward ; being quiet, tractable, and
hospitable, and honourable in their dealings. The negroes on the
banks of the river Mesurado, it has been said, speak a corrupt dialect
of Portuguese, and acknowledge themselves vassals to Portugal ; but
are not, as some have supposed, Europeans changed to negroes by the
power of the climate. Ivory is the staple commodity of exchange or
barter. Teeth under the ^yeight of twenty-two poiuids are termed
scrivcUocs, and may be had comparatively cheap. >

** It is highly probable," says Mr. Niles, " that we may build up a
powerful people on the western coast of that beniglited quarter of the
■world, who shall extend their settlements into the interior, as we our-
selves have done [on this continent], and command the native tribes as
we do ; and thereby spread light and knowledge, civilization and re-
ligion, even along the yet unknown shores of the mysterious Niger, and
totally break up at least the external trade in slaves ; but without much,
if any, sensible effect to decrease our ovv'n coloured population. How-
ever, it will be a great thing to have a spot provided to which our free
blacks may proceed, with an assurance that their industry will be
crowned with prosperity and peace, and where their children will have
a country and a home ; nor will it be less interesting because of the
opportunity which it may continually offer to liberal and humane per-
sons, who would gladly emancipate their slaves, if convinced that their
condition would be benelited. We always approved of this project, for
it is indeed a humane one, though we questioned its efficiency to accom-
plish the grand first purpose proposed." "

In concluding an animated description of this flourishing colony, the
Encyclopaedia Americana uses the following language : — " Thus far
the efforts of the American Colonization Society have been attended
with great if not unexampled success. The men of colour who have
migrated to Liberia have felt the influences of enterprise and freedom ;
and are improved alike in their condition and character. Those who
■were slaves have become masters ; those who were once dependent
have become independent ; once the objects of charity, they are now
benefactors ; and the very individuals who, a few years ago, felt their
spirits depressed in our land, and incapable of high efforts and great
achievements, now stand forth, conscious of their dignity and power,
sharing in all the privileges and honours of a respected, a free, and a
Christian people." - 1

A weekly newspaper, called the " Liberia Herald," is now printed at
Monrovia, the capital of the colony, and appears to be very well con.*

* M. Malte Brun's System of Geography.

June.] ISL-\ND OF ASCENSION. 331

ducted. A pretty brisk commerce is also carried on there ; and in
1828 they exported seventy thousand dollars' worth of produce. The
climate is salubrious, and with a few exceptions, the colonists have uni-
formly enjoyed good health.

June 8th. — Our water-casks having been replenished from mountain
streams, and safely stowed on board, and the schooner being now
amply supplied \yith fresh meat, vegetables, fruit, and refreshments of
every kind, besides a quantity of live-stock, we found ourselves in readi-
ness to set sail for home, "sweet home," many months sooner than
we had anticipated. But the voyage had been prosperous beyond our
expectations, and any further stay on the African coast would have been
a useless waste of time and money. We therefore got under way on
Monday, the 8th of June, and at 4, P. M., we left the anchorage at
Benguela, which is in lat. 12^ 34' south, and long. 13^ 17' east ; varia-
tion per azimuth, 21° 30' westerly. We started with a fine breeze from
south-west, and fair weather. At 11, P. M., we took the wind from
south-by-west, and at 10 the next morning we had it from south-south-
east. We crossed the meridian of Greenwich on Friday, the 12th.

June loth. — We continued on our course to the west with south-east
winds until Monday, the 15th; when, at 11, A.M., we were close in
with the island of Ascension, in lat. 7° 55' south, long. 14° 23' west;
about six hundred miles north-west of the celebrated island of St.
Helena, and twice that distance east of Pernambuco, in Brazil.

The island of Ascension was formerly described as " a barren un-
inhabited island in the South Atlantic Ocean, without soil or vegetation,"
and as " an impracticable heap of volcanic ashes." This description
was once correct ; but industry, skill, and perseverance have now ren-
dered a more favourable one appropriate. The island is in fact a shat-
tered volcano, the pulverized materials of which are rapidly becoming
converted into a rich and fertile soil. It formerly belonged to the Por-
tuguese, who discovered it in 1501 ; but in 1816, some English fam-
ilies from the island of St. Helena settled here, and it was taken pos-
session of by the British government as a military station ; and sixty
transport ships provided the garrison of two hundred men with supplies
from the Cape of Good Hope. A fort was erected, roads constructed,
gardens planted, houses built, &c.

This island is of triangular shape, about twenty miles in circumfer-
ence ; being eight miles from north to south, and five miles and a half
from cast to west. It may be seen from tlie mast-head in clear weather
at the distance of ten leagues. On approaching it from tlie east, at
the distance of six or eight leagues, its appearance is uneven and rug-
ged, being an assemblage of hills, with a mountain overlooking them
from the south. This is called Green Mountain, and is about eight
hundred yards in height. The best anchorage at this island is in Tur-
tle Cove, in eight or ten fathoms of water, with the flag-staff on Cross-
Hill bearing south-east-half-east ; Rat Corner, south-south-west ; dis-
tance from the nearest shore about one mile. A heavy surf often in-
terrupts the landing for several days together.

The whole island is of volcanic origin, and the surface is now partly
covered with a reddish soil, while in some ylaces there is a yellow earth

332 ISLAND OF ASCENSION. . [1829.

resembling ochre. A fine black earth covers the bottoms of the valleys,
which are now in a fine state of cultivation by the little military colony
before alluded to. The island is composed of several conic hills, from
two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty yards in height. Green
Mountain has a double top, rising in two peaks, like the Grecian Par.
nassus. In almost every part of the island, as Mr. Purdy justly ob-
serves, are found prodigious quantities of rocks full of holes like a
honeycomb ; together with calcined [stones, very light, and pumice-
stones. " Tiie rocks, lying upon each other in a very irregular way,
and mostly on the declivity of hills, leave great chasms between them ;
and as they have very little solidity, an observer runs some risk who
ventures without caution iipon them." " About the middle of the
island, and between the hills, there are several little plains, which arc
divided into small spaces, so remarkably distributed that you would
take them for so many pieces of land cleared of stones, and separated
from each other by long walls."

According ^ the statement of the officers of the Engli-sh brig
Slaney, who visited this island in February, 1827, Ascension was
then (under the government of Lieutenant-colonel Nicholls) in a most
flourishing state of progressive improvement as to its resources, both
natural and artificial. "Roads are constructing from the several
springs (sixteen in number) to convey water to the garrison ; and
hopes were entertained of being able to supply a squadron with that
essential article in the course of a year, by means of iron pipes from
the principal spring to a reservoir near the beach. Pasturage for cat-
tle is making its appearance. Sheep, turkeys, guinea-fowls, and live-
stock of every description thrive well. Fruit, such as pines, Indian
gooseberries, and plantains have been successfully cultivated. Pota-
toes, onions, carrots, pease, French beans, and almost every esculent
vegetable have been produced upon the island ; and thus, from a desert
cinder, nature has been courted successfully to yield most of her use-
ful vegetable productions. Only two deaths from sickness have
occurred at Ascension during the last two years [1825 and 1826] ;
and when we consider that gales of wind are unknown to have visited
the anchorage there, the value of the island as a rendezvous and a
depot for stores and provisions, for a squadron of observation, des-
tined to cruise either on the African or Brazilian coast hereafter,
will obviously repay the liberal attention that has been bestowed
upon it."

A short time after the visit of the brig Slaney, the William Harris,
a transport, landed at the island a cargo of live-stock — horses, hares,
rabbits, pheasants, poultry, partridges, &;c., seeds of vegetables, agri-
cultural implements, and a supply of necessaries for the garrison, who
all enjoyed very excellent health. In return, she took a large quantity
of fine turtle, with which the island abounds ; and, according to Cap-
tain Le.^ley, it " furnishes the finest in creation," being " not only fat
and large, but in the highest perfection for eating. Their weight, in
general, is from one to seven hundred pounds. They are, of all I ever
tasted, the fattest and finest ; all others I ever saw before bear no com-

July.] ARRIVE AT NEW-YORK. 333

parison with them." This description, I should suppose, would make
any alderman's mouth water.

From the island of Ascension we shaped our course west-north-west,
with a strong breeze from the south-east, and fair weather. We crossed
the equator on Sunday, the'21st of June, in long. 30*^ 47' W., and on
Tuesday, the 23d, we lost the south-east trade-winds, in lat. 5° 42' N.,
long. 32° 14' AV. From this day to the 26th we had light variable
winds,, and heavy falls of rain. On the last-mentioned date, at four,
P. M., we took the north-east trade-winds, in lat. 10° 4' N., long. 32°
51' W. We now had a fine breeze from east-north-east to north-
north-east, and fair weather for ten days.

July 4th. — On Saturday we celebrated the anniversary of our na-
tional independence in an appropriate manner, by displaying the stars
and stripes, and firing a national salute at sunrise, noon, and sunset.
This ceremony was rendered the more interesting by its being beneath
a vertical sun, at twelve, M., — " a sun of glory, that threw no
shadow on the scene." At this moment the sun's declination and our
latitude only differed one minute and thirty seconds. Temperature of
the air 95°, of the water 83°. Heaven grant that the sun of our
national glory and prosperity, which is rapidly ascending to the zenith,
may there remain vertical, until time shall be no more.

July 7th. — On Tuesday, the 7lh, we lost the north-east trade-winds,
in lat. 31° 0' N., long. 63° 8' W. We now continued steering to the
north and west, with variable winds and occasional foul weather, for
nearly another week, when the cheering cry from the mast-head of
"Land, ho ! land, ho ! over the larboard bow," announced the appear-
ance of Mount Mitchell, or the highlands of Navesink, and many anx-
ious bosoms throbbed quick in response to the welcome cry. In a
short time after we w^re boarded by a pilot.

Jicly lith. — On Tuesday, at four, P. M., we arrived at the quaran-
tine ground, Staten Island ; and at five, P. M., I landed at Whitehall,
where I took a coach, and in a short time I had by the hand my wor-
thy old friend Christian Bergh, Esq., who greeted me with a cordial
" welcome home," affectionately inquiring after the health of myself
and crew. But not a question would he ask, not a word would he
hear, respecting the success of our voyage, or on business of any de-
scription, until I had embraced my family, M'ho, he informed me, were
in good health. This instance of kindness and delicacy, so differ-
ent from the general conduct of " mercenary man," touched me sen-
sibly.

While I was conversing with the old gentleman, we were joined by
his son, Edwm Bergh, " a son every way worthy of such a sire." His
greeting was equally cordial, equally delicate with that of his excel-
lent father ; neither of them would touch upon business until I had
discharged duties of a more tender character. On taking my leave
of these worthy men, I was met by their copartners in business, Jacob
Westerfield and Robert Carnley, Esqrs., whose reception, to my in-
creased surprise, was exactly similar to that of the Berghs. The
pleasure of seeing me returned in safety, they said, was a theme suffi-
cient for the remainder of that day ; to-morrow would be time enough

334 INQUIRY FOR OGDEX. [1829,

for business. Tliey inquired after the health of the crew, and dropped
several manly tears for ihe fate of young Ogden, one of them exclaim-
ing, "Ah ! Avho siiall tell his widowed mother this ! His sisters too —
'twill break their hearts to hear the dreadful news."

I now took my leave, and in a few minutes more held a dear form
in my arms which had been rendered senseless by the sudden joy
arising from my unexpected appearance. But such revulsions of na-
ture are seldom fatal.

" But recollection whispered yet a joy

'Twas hers to give, and from Uie trance she starts,
Puts in his arms their little infant boy.
Love's precious pledge, that closer binds their hearts."

CHAPTER Vn.

A Sister's Inquiry for her Brother — An Evasive Answer — The Fatal Truth dis-
closed — A Mourninor Family — Pious Resignation — A Funeral Sermon — Dis-
charge the Cargo — Visit Stonington — Preparations for another Voyage in the
Antarctic — Domestic Affairs — A Wiie resolved to accompany her Husband —
Vain Expostulations — Arguments pro and con — The Embarkation — The Pilot
dismissed.

Thus far all had been pleasure and congratulation. Several friends
liad dropped in to wish us joy, and welcome my return. Among the
rest a beautiful young lady, who had formed an intimacy with my
wife during my absence, made her appearance. Owing to the agita-
tion and confusion ever attendant on such joyfid occasions, the usual
etiquette of a formal introduction was forgotten or neglected, and my
fair visiter opened the conversation without ceremony, her eyes spar-
kling with vivacity and pleasure as she spoke.

" Oh, Mrs. Morrell, I congratulate you vrith all my heart. Captain,
I am so glad that you have returned. I hear that your beautiful new
vessel the Antarctic is at quarantine. I suppose she will be detained
some time. How soon do you think she will be up ? — Or will your
men be allowed to come to the city to see their friends ? You must
let my brother William come up, if it is only for one night, or else we
shall all go down to see him, and board you by force of arms. Your
Antarctic, with all her guns, cannot oppose a female press-gang, who
have so strong a claim on one of your crew. We must have Wil-
liam."

" William ! What William !" I inquired, as a very unpleasant sus-
picion flashed across my mind. " We have several line fellows of that
name. Which of them do you claim, miss ?"

" Why my brother^ to be sure, William Ogden, the last man you
shipped, the very day before you sailed ; he gave us the slip at a few
hours' notice, for which I mean to give him a round scolding, after I

July.] A MOURNING FAMILY. 333

have kissed him, and am certain that he is quite well. And t have
got good news for him, too."

The reader will easily perceive that I now foimd myself placed in
a very awkward, in a very painful situation. To dash at once from
the lips of this amiable girl a cup ovei-flowing with hope, joy, and
iifiection, I could not for the wealth of vrorlds ; the worth of the An-
tarctic, and all her valuable cargo, would not have bribed me. I stole
an appealing glance at ray wife, for counsel and assistance ; but in-
stantly read, in an answering glance, that I must depend on my own
resources. I therefore resolved to gain time by evasion, and so made
the following reply :

" William Ogden ! There is no man of that name on board of the
Antarctic." She now looked very much alarmed. " But as you allude
to his giving you the slip, and shipping in a sudden, unexpected man-
ner, it is highly probable that he may have entered under an assumed
name. It is often done by romantic young men, you know, especially
if there be ' a lady in the case.' "

" An assumed name !" repeated the affectionate sister. " Why should
he do so ? And yet it is possible. Indeed, it must be so ; for I know,
we all know, that he sailed in the Antarctic ; and the very night before
he sailed a strange band of music came under his window, and played
the beautiful air of ' Home, sweet home,' in the sweetest style, he told
us, that ever he heard it performed in his life. But he knew not who
the musicians'were, nor could he imagine the cause of their paying
him the compliment of so pleasing a serenade. They repeated it
several times, he said, and the eftect on his mind was such as almost
induced him to relinquish his wild resolution of going to sea."

" Well, Miss Ogden," I replied, with as much firmness as I could
assume, "if your brother be on board the Antarctic, under whatever
name he may have shipped, you shall see him to-morrow, or at least
liear some reasons for his non-attendance. You shall not be kept in
suspense an hour after I return to the vessel."

With this assurance she appeared satisfied, and after thanking me,
departed with a heart as light as gossamer, or the down of a thistle.
I now consulted with my wife and one or two friends, on the best
mode of breaking the distressing intelligence to the now happy family.
One of my friends, much better qualified for s«ch a mournful office
than myself, volunteered his services on the occasion. I did not at-
tempt to express my gratitude to him ; but I felt it : and if he sliould
chance to cast his eye upon this page, let him be assured that I thank
him still, for saving my feelings on that occasion. I would not shrink
from any duty, under ordinary circumstances ; but the reader must
bear in mind that I had yet scarcely embraced my family, after a long
absence.

My friend performed his assumed duty, and acquitted himself on
this occasion, as he does on every other, in the best possible manner.
The shock was great ; but every member of that highly respectable
and very amiable family had been taught by affectionate and pious
parents to be resigned to the will of Providence. The thrice-bereaved
and widowed mother came to see me on the following day, and thanked

336 FUNERAL SERMON. [1829»

me for — I hardly remember what ; but she thought I had been kind to her
poor boy, as she called him. She assured me that she had prayed for
and obtained a feeling of humble resignation to this afflicting dispen-
sation ; and that she could breathe sincerely from the heart the ejacu-
lation of " Thy will be done."

On the following Sabbath a funeral sermon was preached by the
Rev. Mr. SchaefTer, which was attended by the crew of the Antarctic,
on whose weather-beaten visages glistened many a manly tear.

This amiable young man was born in the city of New- York, on the
15th of November, 1807. He was educated in his native city, under
the charge of the late Joseph Nelson, LL.D., and received the first
honours of that distinguished school. At the age of sixteen, shortly
after the death of his father, he entered upon a mercantile profession ;
and in the spring previous to our sailing for Africa, he commenced the
dry goods business, and his success w^as every way equal to his own
anticipations, or the wishes of his friends. He suddenly determined
to go to sea — so suddenly, that he only made up his mind the day be-
fore the Antarctic sailed. He informed his friends that his resolution
was irrevocably fixed, without assigning any reasons, except his desire
to explore the south polar regions. During our outward passage, and
until the period of his death, he wTOte home by every opportunity. I
am not at liberty to enter into particulars, except to add, that two fond,
faithful, virtuous hearts had been sundered by unnatural influence. I
am at liberty to add, that I have seldom met with his equal for integ-
rity, uprightness, and every manly virtue which adorns the human
character ; that he was an affectionate son, and a kind brother ; and
that he never caused his family a tear, until he embarked on this (to
them) unfortunate voyage. His death has occasioned a chasm ill their
domestic circle which can never be filled.

Independent of the melancholy circumstances just detailed, every
thing conspired to render my return a happy one. All my relations,
friends, and acquaintances were in good health, and expressed great
joy on seeing me. One of my sisters had happily married during
my absence, to Mr. Sheldrin Tomlinson, of Connecticut, a very wor-
thy man. This was my sister Abby, who after her nuptials received
a very handsome marriage-portion from the hand of Mrs. Burrows,
the wife of Silas E. Burrows, Esq., the generous benefactor of our
family, after the awful calamity Avhich deprived us of a mother.
The reader will recollect that he and his amiable wife took my
motherless sisters under their protection, and treated them with unex-
umpled tenderness and benevolence. I know their retiring, unassuming
character, and dare not hazard the expression of all I feel on this
subject-

July I5th. — On Wednesday, the 15lh of July, I had the pleasure
of seeing my worthy and much esteemed friend Charles L. Livings-
ton, Esq., who received me in the most cordial and affectionate man-
ner. He is one of. the worthiest men of which the state of New-
York can boast ; but his character is so well known, and so highly
appreciated by the public, that it needs not the feeble eulogium of my
pen. This gentleman, with all the others concerned in the schooner

July.} VISIT TO STONINGTON— DOMESTIC AFFAIRS. 337

Antarctic, expressecT great satisfaction at the successful result of our
voyage, and were pleased to speak to me in terms of high approba-
tion ; which was, of course, very grateful to my feelings. The plea-
sure of knowing that we have faithfully discharged our duty is much
heightened by the approbation of our employers. I now laid before
them my favourite plan of jerking beef on the coast of Africa, but
they all declined entering into the speculation.

During this week we finished discharging the cargo of the Antarc-
tic, at the quarantine ; and in a lew days afterv/ard, that elegant
vessel was once more moored at the wharf in front of the ship-yard
where she was built, M'ith the rigging taken from her mast-heads.
Here I took my leave of her for a short time, for the purpose of pay-
ing a visit to my father, sister, and other friends in Connecticut.

This excursion to Stonington yielded me much enjoyment.
Every one was well and happy, and the place improving and in-
creasing in wealth and importance. I was extremely glad to learn
that the spirit of patriotism and enterprise which has ever distin-
guished the inhabitants of this place, had received some encourage-
ment from government, in appropriating funds for erecting a lighthouse
and constructing a breakwater ; and that the state legislature had
granted them a charter for a bank.

I united with them in celebrating the anniversaiy of the memorable
bombardment of that place, which is strictly observed, not only by
*' the sterner sex," but also by the females of every age, from the
blooming girl to the silvery headed matron. After attending to this
patriotic festival, and spending a few very happy days with my father
and sister, I took my leave of Stonington, and returned to New- York ;
where I found that my friend Captain William Skiddy, commander
and part owner of the Havre packet Francis the First, had arrived
during my absence. This gentleman was one of the owners of the
Antarctic ; and, as a ship-master and a gentleman, sustains an elevated
rank in the estimation of the community.

On calling to see my venerable friend Bergh, he informed me that
it was the unanimous wish of the owners that I would again take
charge of the Antarctic, and proceed on a voyage to the South Seas
and Pacific Ocean. This request I was ready to comply with ; and
entered mto the scheme with so much alacrity, that by the latter end
of July, the schooner was in readiness to receive her stores and pro-
visions, with every other necessary article ; and by the 1st of Sep-
tember, we once more found ourselv^es'ready for sea ; the Antarctic
lying in the East River, abreast of Catharine market.

In the mean time, my wife had informed me, that during my late
absence she had made up her mind to accompany me on my next
voyage, be it to whatever section of the globe it might, even to the
icy regions of the antarctic circle. So much had she suflfered from
anxiety of mind on my account, during the last twelve months, that
she assured me she could not survive another such separation.

" Only take me with you, Benjamin," was her constant reply to all
my expostulations against the measure, " and I will pledge myself to
lighten your cares, instead of adding to their weight. I am willing to

338 FRUITLESS EXPOSTULATIONS. [1829.

endure any privation — let my fare be that of the meanest creature on
board, and I shall be happy, if I can see you in health and safety.
Should misfortune be your lot, I would console you ; and I would a
thousand times rather share a watery grave with you^ than to survive
alone, deprived of my only friend and protector against the wrongs
a]id insults of an unfeeling world."

I then represented to her, in strong colours, the force of objections
from another quarter. It was to be admitted that my owners and
employers were the best and most benevolent of men. But, as a
general principle, merchants would never willingly consent for a ship-
master in their employ to be accompanied, on a long voyage, by his
ivife. Some would object to it on the mean avaricious apprehensions
of the lady's food abstracting some fil\y dollars from the net profits of
the voyage ; others were fearful that the husband would neglect his
nautical duties, by attending more to the comforts of his wife than
to the interests of his owners. To all these, and a thousand argu-
ments of equal cogency, she had ready and plausible replies.

"As regards the cost of food," she replied, "your owners shall not
suffer a cent. Water costs nothing, bread we can buy ourselves ; I
want no better fare, if I can only be with you, if I can only see yon
once in twenty-four hours, and know that you are not sick ; or if sick,
that I can have the privilege of nursing you, and administering to
your wants. And how little must they know you^ Benjamin, who
could for a moment suspect that you could neglect your duty on my
accoimt. The Antarctic would be doubly safe m ith me on board ; for
your care and watchfulness over her safety would be tenfold increased
for my sake. You would know that your wife and the vessel must
swim or sink together."

I will not fatigue the reader with all the arguments urged and
refuted on both sides ; but will merely state that my principal objec-
tion, next to anxiety for her comfort and safety, was the fear of
slanderous tongues, which might injure my professional character as a
ship-master, by representing me as studying my own comfort and
pleasure, instead of the pecuniary advantages of those who intrusted
me with the vessel. I knew that I had enemies who would seize
upon the slightest pretext to lessen me in the estimation of merchants,
as a man of business. To this she replied, • that while conscious of
doing my duty to God and man, the shafts of envy could never harm
me. I then appealed to female timidity, and endeavoured to alarm
her terrors by picturing the dangers of the sea in the most frightful
colours. I represented the chance of being shipwrecked on an island of
■savages, who would massacre the survivors with perhaps the exception
of herself, reserved for a still more horrid fate ; the hazard of foun-
dering at sea, in a gale of wind, and the crew compelled to save them-
selves in an open boat, in the midst of the ocean ; together with many
other dangers of a like nature.

' In this opposition to the fondest wish of her heart, I was ably sup-
ported by her parents, brothers, sisters, and friends ; also by my uncles
Captains Thomas and Denasen Wood, with their wives and daughters,
my sisters, and many respectable friends and acquaintances, who all

Sept.] A PASSENGER— THE EMBARKATION. 339

united in endeavouring to dissuade my wife from her resolution of ac-
companying me on this long and perilous voyage. They renewed
the subject morning, noon, and night, but all to no purpose. She was
still determined to go with me, wherever I went, unless I perempto-
rily and absolutely forbade her ; the consequence of which she said
would be, that she should never more see me, feeling it impossible to
survive until I returned.

For the week before I gave my final consent, she could neither
sleep nor eat ; but bathed her pillow with tears at night, and drooped
all day like a fading lily. I now became alarmed for her health ; it
evidently appearing that my further opposition to her wishes would be
fatal to her happiness, if not to her life. I therefore told her, only
two days before we sailed, that I would yield to her wishes, if she
would agree to the restrictions that had been pointed out : viz. that
she must expect no attentions from me when duty called me on deck;
that she must never blame me, if things were not agreeable or plea-
sant, at all times, during the voyage ; and that she must not expect
that there would be any extra living on board the Antarctic on her
account. She threw herself on my bosom, and for some moments
could only thai^ me with her tears. At length she feebly articu-
lated, "You shall see, Benjamin — you shall see."

From this moment her health began to improve ; while her pallid,
death-like countenance changed into the picture of happiness, and
soon exhibited the bloom of the rose. All her former cheerfulness
and vivacity returi^ed ; and when I chanced to be present when she
was busily engaged in making her preparations for the voyage, she
would often repeat the exclamation, " Oh, Benjamin, how happy you
have made me !"

The various scenes of final leave-taking I shall leave to the reader's
imagination ; for I fear that I have already trespassed too much on
his patience with matters that merely concern myself — subjects sel-
dom interwoven with the coarse fabric of a seaman's journal. But
though " Columbia's tars have hearts of oak," they sometimes soften
in the warm rays of affection.

It was on Wednesday, the second day of September, 1829, at
eleven, A. M., that I handed my wife on to the deck of the Antarctic,
which was just getting under way, with the pilot on board. We
were attended by several of our friends, who proposed accompanying
us to Sandy Hook, and returning in the pilot-boat : viz. my worthy friend
Mr. Edwin Bergh, and his father-in-law Mr. Gcer, Captain Mitchell,
Mr. Bogert, IMr. Keeler, and INIr. John Wood, the son of my uncle
Captain Thomas Wood.

At one, P. M., we passed the Battery, with a moderate breeze from
the south-west, and fair weather. At five, P. M., my friends all took
their leave, and after wishing us a prosperous voyage and a safe
return, they went on board the pilot-boat Thomas H. Smith, of New-
York. Before they squared away for the city, however, they greeted
US with three hearty cheers ; which were duly honoured by our noble
tars, with six loud and animating responses.

It may not be improper in this place to remark, that the Antarctic,

340 THE ANTARCTIC SAILS. [1829.

on tins occasion, though amply and liberally supplied with every tiling
necessary for a long voyage, had no ardent spirits on board ; as I was
determined to test the question of the practicabihty of such a measure.
I am happy in having this opportunity of bearing public testimony to
the fact, that the experiment was in every respect successful ; so that
from my representation of the result, several other ship-masters have
adopted the same plan, with the like happy effects. I am so perfectly
eatisfied of the advantages arising from this system, not only to the
health, morals, and pecuniary interest of the crew, but also to the
master and owners, by a more faithful discharge of duty, that I shall
strictly adhere to it in all my future voyages. Its advantage to the
seamen is obvious ; as instead of their usual allowance of grog, they
receive an equivalent in cash, w^hich, at the termination of a two
years' voyage, must amount to a handsome sum. Two or three
.years' abstinence will cure this disease of a vitiated appetite in almost
any person, even if he be a veteran in the ranks of intemperance ;
and I sincerely believe that those ship-masters who have adopted my
plan of commuting with their crew for ardent spirits are doing more
for the cause of temperance than any other set of men. May heaven
prosper the endeavours of every one engaged in this glorious cause ;
for he, or she, that is instrumental in arresting one solitary human
being in the downward course of intemperance, and reinstating him
in the path of sobriety and virtue, may be emphatically termed the
benefactor of mankind. '

FOURTH VOYAGE. .

TO THE

NORTH AND SOUTH PACIFIC, INDIAN

OCEAN, kc.

CHAPTER I.

DepaTture of the Antarctic — Good Qualities of the Schooner — The Captain's
Wife on board — Beauties of a dying Dolphin — Sudden Death of -Francis Pat-
terson — Arrive at Bona\asta — Arrive at Porto Praya — Steer for the South — The
Crew assailed by Fever — The Lady suffering under the same Disease — Dis-
tressing Situation of the Antarctic — Death of Mr. Geery — Death of Mr. Spin-
ney — The Prospect darkens — A Wife's dying Request to her Husband — A Dawn
of Hope — The Sick begin to recover — Axrive at Tristan d'Acunha, and procure
Refreshments.

As the objects of this voyage will be fully developed in the course
of the narrative, it will not be necessary to detain the reader by any
prematiure comments on the subject. If he have patience to peruse
the following pages, he will be master of the whole secret. He will
also learn m the sequel, that though the enterprise proved a total faihne,
so far as respects the pecuniary interests of the parties concerned, more
especially my o\ni, the cause of science has been essentially promoted
by new discoveries of a most interesting description, both in a com-
mercial and moral point of view. But this is not all ; he will become
convinced, that through the means of these discoveries I could, with
only a moderate share of patronage, either from the United Statesgov-
ernment, or a private company of enterprising capitalists, open ^ew
avenue of trade, more lucrative than any which our country has ever
yet enjoyed ; and further, that it woidd be in my power, and mhie ahncy
to secure its monopoly for any term I pleased. But I will not antici-
pate ; having merely intimated thus much as an additional hiducement
for the reader to accompany me through the following pages.

No vessel, perhaps, could be better adapted to meet successfully the
contingencies of such a voyage than the schooner Antarctic, of which I
had just resumed the command ; this being only her second essay since
she was first launched from the ship-yard of her experienced and accom-
plished builder. Christian Bergh, Esq., in 1828. In my former voyage
on the African coast, I had tried this vessel effectually, in every position
and situation, to my entire satisfaction. She was very sharp-built, of one

342 DEPARTURE— DEATH OF PATTERSON. [1829.

liundrctl and seventy-two tons, constructed of the best materials, and
Jiiiished in a superior manner, willi which her rigging and equipments
corresponded. 1 foci no liesitation in adding, that a finer vessel of her
class never ploughed the ocean. I think she would outsail any vessel
belonging to the port of New-York, on a wind, in rougli weather, or in
turning to windward.

At her earnest and unceasing solicitation I was accompanied by my
wife, on this long, perilous, and in many respects disastrous voyage,
having previously committed our little boy to tiie protecting care of his
afiectionatc grand-parents. We embarked on Wednesday, the 2d day
of September, 1829, at 11, A.M., and took our departure from Sandy-
Hook light at about 7 o'clock, the same evening — the light bearing west-
norlli-west, distant three leagues. We steered to the south-east, with
a moderate breeze from south-west, and fair weather, running past
every thing standing in the same direction.

Sept. 4t/i. — On Friday, the 4th, we were in lat. 38° 57' north, long.
60^ 44' west ; and continued our passag-e to the eastward, with con-
trary winds a great part of the time, for more than three weeks. Our
Ih-st point of destination was Bonavista, one of the Cape Verd Islands,
wJierc we were to touch for salt.

Sept. 28tJi. — On Friday, the 28lh, we took the north-east trade-
winds, in lat. 32° 17' north, long. 2G° 1 1' west, wind from north-east-
by-north, and fair \veather. We continued on our passage with a fine
breeze, occasionally seeing sperm-wdiales, porpoises, dolphins, skip-
jacks, sharks, and pilot-fish. We cauglit several porpoises and skip-
jacks, and one large shark; thus giving the lady an opportunity of con-
templating these tenants of the mighty deep, when drawn from their
nati'.e element. The shark was of formidable dimensions, measuring
fourteen feet in length. But the spectacle in which she evinced the
most thrilling interest was that of a dying dolphin, when writhing in
the last agonies, while his scales reflected all the richest tints of the
rainbow. Though familiar with Falconer's beautiful description, she
thought tiie reality even more beautiful than that accomplished seaman's
poetry.

"What radiant clianges strike tlie astonished siglil !
What glowing hues of mingled shade and light!
Not equal beauties gild the lucid west,
With p'jrting beams all o'er profusely drcss'd.
Not lovelier colours jaint the vernal dawn,
When orient dews inipcarl llie enamelled lawn,
Than from his sides in bright sufTusioi) flow,
That now Aviih gold imperial seem to glow ;
Now in pellucid sapphires meet the view,
And cniulale the soil celestial hue;
Now beam a flaming crimson to the eye;
And now assume the purple's d».eper die."

Sept. 20tJi. — On Vv^cdnesday, the 30th, one of our oldest and most
exjiericnced seamen was seized with an apoplectic fit, and expired at
2, P. M., aged sixty-five years. His name was Francis Patterson, an
Englishman by birth ; a veteran tar, who had followed the seas for
lifty-five years, and had been in many of the naval engagements of
Great Britain. He was as taut and as honourable a seaman as ever
put two ends of a rope together ; a fine specimen of British tars of

Oct.] CAPE VERBS— DREADFUL SICKNESS. 343

the Dibdin school. At his own dying request, he was buried according-
to the customs of the British navy ; and his loss was sincerely felt and
lamented by every soul on board.

Oct. 5th. — We arrived at Boiiavista on Monday, the 5th day of Oc-
tober ; and at 6, A. M., came to anchor in English Roads, in three
f^ithoms of water, sandy bottom, mixed with coral. This island is one
of the Cape Verds, for a description of which the reader is referred to
the first and second chapters of my Third Voyage. At 7, A. M., I went
on shore to see my old friend Don Martinez, who informed me that
w-e could not have any salt until Wednesday, the 7th, when we coni«
menced taking on board eleven hundred bushels.

Oct. 9th. — On Frida\', the 9th, at 7, P. jM., we got under way, and
steered for St. Jago, where we arrived on the lOtli, and came to anchor
at Porto Praya, at 6, A. M., in four fathoms of water, sandy bo-ttom. I
immediately called on Mr. Merrill, the United States' consul, whom I
found to be sick, having been confined to his room for about three
months, with intermittent fever and ague, a disease which was then pre-
vailing at Bonavista, though not many cases had occurred in Porto
Praya. Though not able to attend to the duties of his office, this gen-
tleman rendered me every assistance in his power ; as did also Mr.
Gardner, an American merchant, who is the son-in-law of Don Marti-
nez. This gentleman is always very active in assisting Americans
who touch at this port for refreshments, and will never accept any com-
pensation for his trouble.

Oct. 1 1th. — Having replenished our water-casks, and taken on board
a large supply of live-stock, fruit, and vegetables, we once more got
under way, on Sunday, the 11th of October, at 7, P. M., and steered
to the south, with a light breeze from north-east-by-east, and fair
T/eather.

Oct. I2ih. — On Monday, the 12th, Vve lost the north-east trade-
■winds, in lat. 10^ 40' north, long. 22° 30' west. For several days fol-
lowing our progress was retarded by successive or continued calms,
with very light variable airs, attended with heavy falls of rain.

Oct. 25th. — This weather continued mitil we crossed the equator,
which was on Saturday, the 24th, in long. 22°-45' west ; and on the
following day we took the south-east trade-winds, from soulh-east-by-
south, and fair weather. On the same day eight of the crew were
taken sick with the intermittent fever ; and on the 26th the officers and
my wdfe were taken down with the same disease.

Oct. 2Sth. — On Wednesday, the 28th, eleven men and my wife
were all lying, as I thought, at the point of death. My situation was
now truly deplorable and appalling ; on board of a vessel, in the mid-
dle of the ocean, expecting every moment to see the rest of the crew
reduced to the same lielple&s condition with their comrades, and the
gallant little Antarctic left to the mercy of the winds and waves, with-
out a hand to guide the helm or to tend the braces, and keep the sails
trimmed to th^ breeze. The prospect was gloomy in the extreme.
And then the patient suffering angel in the cabin, far removed from
the reach of a mother's or a sister's sympathy, and all those delicate
offices of aflfection which a female hand is best fitted to perform.

344 SICKNESS INCREASES. [1829.

Had she not been on board I should certainly have oorne up for the
first port under our lee, as I momentarily expected that every man
would be taken down with the same fever. But I reflected that some
slanderous tongues might attribute such a deviation from my regular
course solely to the fact of my wife's being on board. That idea I could
not lamely endure ; especially if any untoward accident should be the
result of such a measure. Thus was I beset with difficulties on every
side ; difficulties which tho«e heroes of the drawing-room who would
be the most liberal in their censures could not appreciate.

" No ! perish all first !" I muttered with bitterness, as I gloomily
paced the deck at midnight. " I will never subject myself to the un-
feeling sarcasms of those carpet-knights, on whose delicate frames the
winds of heaven are not permitted to blow too roughly. Let them loll
on their parlour sofas, or sport on the downy beds of luxury : I will
pursue the direct path of duty, and leave the result to an all-wise and
overruling Providence. His word can stay the pestilence, if such be
his gracioU'S purpose. If not, we are in his hands, and let his holy
will be done." The soothing influence of this last reflection calmed
my agitations, and encouraged me to persevere in my arduous duties.

I momentarily expected to be taken down myself; if not with the
fever, by fatigue and watchfulness, in nursing the sick and navigating
the vessel, being constantly in motion, and scarcely able to snatch a
moment's repose or a mouthful of necessary nourishntent. The sea-
men who were still able to perform their duty on deck were unwilling
to attend to their dying shipmate's, believing the disease to be conta-
gious ; which was not the case, or I should certainly have taken it
myself, as I was day and night administering to the wants of the suf-
ferers, and nursing by turns the officers and my languishing but uncom-
plaining wife. I am certain that I did not average more than two hours'
sleep out of the twenty-four ; and even this sleep was not rest, for the
anxiety of ray'mind rendered it any thing but refreshing.

Oct. dOih.—On Friday, the 30th, Mr. Scott, my third officer, ap-
peared to be dying, as the blood had settled under his toe-nails, and his
legs had become cold above his knees. I therefore took him on deck,
and commenced bathing his limbs with warm vinegar, and rubbing them
with hot flannel steeped in the same, until by vigorous exertion, and
long perseverance, the circulation of the stagnant blood was again re-
stored ; when I replace-d him in his berth below.

Oct. 3lst. — On the following day my first officer, Mr. Moses Hunt,
told me that he felt himself to be near his end, and requested to be
taken on deck, that his brother-officers might not suffer the shock of
witnessing his last agonies. I complied with his request, at the same
tim.e suggesting that his situation might not be so critical as he ima-
gined ; but that hot vinegar with rapid friction might revive him, as it
had Mr. Scott. This experiment was immediately adopted with unre-
mitting perseverance. I observed that the blood had begun to settle
under his nails, that his extremities were deathhke cold, and that there
was scarcely any perceptible motion in his pulse. The thermometer
now stood at 94° in the draught of the companion.

" It is in vain, captaui," said he, taking me by the hand, while his

Nov.] DISTRESSING SITUATION— DEATH OF GEERY. 345

own was cold and clammy ; " it is of no use — my life-lines are
stranded — God bless you, my dear sir — you are the sailor's friend — a
father to those under your command — Heaven will bless you." I told
him I hoped he felt resigned to the will of Providence, and was pre-
pared for the change which he thought so nearly awaited him. He
answered that he believed he was ; and then folded his hands, and
raising his eyes aloft, was for some time engaged in silent prayer. At
the same time I breathed a fervent petition to Heaven, that I might not
be thus deprived of this my chief dependence, my able counsellor and
well tried friend, under my present troubles and difficulties.

During all this time our exertions in attempting to restore the circu-
lation of blood in his limbs were not relaxed, but continued with in-
creased ardour ; by continual friction, and bathing with hot vinegar,
these exertions were at length rewarded with success ; when, to our
unspeakable joy, we once more felt his beating pulse, which began to
tell with accelerating force, and the blood at length resumed its usual
course through his limbs. Before night we took him below, and en-
tertained great hopes of his final recovery.

My wife was at this time so low that I dared not indulge the hope
of her ever being restored to health, or of even surviving another revo-
lution of twenty-four hours. She stilL retained her senses, however ;
and several times a day would send her brother forward, with sweet-
meats, jellies, cakes, and other little delicacies, for the sick sailors in
the forecastle ; saying, w^ith a voice enfeebled by disease and pain,
" Poor men ! how much they must suffer for the want of some little
thing that is palatable and nourishing." Although she could not turn
herself in the bed, she would give directions to her brother how to make
wine sangaree and lemonade, and send him forward with it, at least a
dozen times a day, to the sick seamen, with orders to them if they
wanted it more frequently to send their shipmates aft^ and they should
have it.

November \st. — On Sunday, the 1st of November, the fever still
raged with unrelenting severity. Several of the crew appeared to be
dying ; but were revived by blisters,- friction, and bathing with hot
vinegar. Mr. Scott, the third officer, had again become worse, so
that his tongue had turned black, and his pulse had nearly ceased to
beat for more than two hours. But by a very large blister on the pit
of his stomach, and frequent bathings with vinegar, with hot applica-
tions constantly at his feet, we once more raised his pulse, and restored
the circulation of the blood in his limbs.

November 2d. — This mode of treatment, however, was not always
to be successful. On the following day, which was JMonday, the 2d
of November, I was called to witness the closing scene of life's little
drama in the person of Mr. Samuel Geery, son of James Geery, Esq.,
merchant, in the city of New- York, at the early and promising age of
twenty-two. This was a young man who promised to become a first-
rate navigator, having every necessary qualification for rising to the
head of the profession ; add to this, for his private virtues I loved him
like a younger brother. The reader will easily conceive that it was

346 DEATH OF GEERY. [1829

a painful trial for me to lose his friendship and services at this afflict-
ing period. God's will be done.

A little before eleven o'clock at night, as I had just been success-
fully employed in relieving Mr. Hunt from a fainting fit, I was called
to Mr. Geery, who for some time had been lying very low, but always
patient, calm, and resigned. As I approached him, he reached out a
hand to me, now much enfeebled by disease, but which had ever been
nerved in tlic cause of justice, and open in that of humanity.

" My dear friend," said he, " I am going — and going happy, and
perfectly resigned to the will of God : I shall one day meet you
in heaven, together Mith my father and mother, and others who
love me.''

The moment I took his cold clammy hand, I was convinced that he
was struck with death ; the blood being settled under his nails, and
there being little or no perceptible motion in his pulse. I immediately
applied the warm vinegar bath, but he told me that it would be of no
use, because God wanted him in the other v/orld. I asked him if he
was ready and willing to die. He replied that it would be the happiest
moment of his brief existence ; for he longed to leave this world, and
be with our blessed Saviour. " The angels," said he, " are now
Iioverina over the vessel, waiting for my departing spirit, to take it to
the God that gave it." I cannot recollect all he uttered on the sub-
ject of his approaching dissolution ; but it was such language as im-
pressed me with a full conviction of the sincerity of his piety and
religious faith.

He retained the full exercise of his intellectual faculties to the
last moment ; and requested me to assure his parents, brothers, sisters,
and friends that he knew Jesus had prepared a place for him in heaven,
v/here he hoped to meet them all in His own good time. He then
gave me his hand again, saying he had but a minute or two longer to
stay ; but his dying prayer was that the Lord would bless me, because
I was a friend to seamen, and had shown kindness to him and all his
shipmates during their sickness. " I come, Lord Jesus !" M'ere the
last words that he spoke ; when he straightened out liis lower limbs,
folded his arms across his breast, closed his mouth and eyes, and
thus decently composed himself to his final sleep, with a placid smile
on his countenance, and without a struggle.

Thus died, in the very morning of life, as amiable a youth as ever
guided the helm or trimmed the sails of a vessel. Quick, penetrating,
intelligent, and wise for his years — brave and collected in danger —
gentle, afi'able, kind, and affectionate, under all circumstances. The
precepts of Christianity having been early instilled into his tender
mind by pious parents and teachers, he looked to Heaven with grati-
tude for the blessings he had enjoyed, and with hope for others in per-
spective. He died " the death of the righteous, and his last end was
indeed like his." He departed this life on the 2d day of November,
1829, at eleven, P. M., in lat. 20^ 30' S., long. 21° 47' W. The heat
of the weather rendered it necessary to bury him soon ; we therefore
the next morning, at eleven, A. M., committed his body to the deep
with the usual solemnities practised on such occasions.

Nov.] DEATH OF SPINNEY. 347

I kept the death of Mr. Geery a secret from the officers in the
cabin, who were all very much attached to him. I also kept my wife
in ignorance of the fact, who made daily inquiries respecting Mr.
Geery's health for nearly a month after his burial; frequently sending
her brother to carry him some little delicacy or dainty, from her own
stores. She was much shocked when I finally communicated to her the
melancholy intelligence, which was not until her health was partially
restored.

Nove?)iber 3d. — Tuesday, the 3d, found ten of the Antarctic's crew
lying, apparently, at the point of death. At one, P. M., on visiting
the forecastle, I found that Daniel Spinney had been struck by the cold
hand of the fell destroyer. His legs were cold nearly as high as his
hips, and the blood had settled under all his nails. We lost no time
in making the usual exertions to restore the circulation in his limbs ;
and several times during the afternoon and evening our labours ap-
peared to be crowned with success. But he told me, from the first
attempt, that it was of no use, as he was confident that he coidd not
recover.

" This weather-beaten bull of mine must founder, captain, and go
down to Davy Jones's locker; but I hope my spirit, my soul, and thac
is I myself, will find a pleasant berth aloft, and ship with the Captain
of our salvation." I told him I rejoiced to perceive that he was not
afraid to die. " Why should I be afraid to die ?" said he. " I have
never injured man, woman, or child. I have always been kind to my
shipmates. I have treated every man just as I should wish to be
treated were I in his place and he in mine. I have never brought any
sorrow or affliction upon any person, to my knowledge. I have never
stood still and seen a female insulted. I was never backward in
placing myself in front of the enemy during the last war ; and I be-
lieve I never shrank from my duty, in any point, since I first belonged
to a ship. Why then should I fear to die ? The Captain with whom
I am now going to ship is full of mercy and compassion. He wont
reject an honest tar that's done his duty. If you, who have more or
less earthly passions about you, have been so kind to me, why should I
doubt His kindness ? Besides, I have looked death in the face too
often to tremble at him now." It was now near midnight.

After some time spent in expressing his gratitude to me, which was
done in a strain that I do not think proper to repeat, he added, " May
God bless you, sir, and your good lady; who, although she has been
lying at the point of death for some time, has been robbing herself of
many little dainties, and sending them forward every day to me and
my sick shipmates. We cared nothing for the sweetmeats, and such-
like ; but it was the action we looked at — it is your lady's good-will
towards us that makes us all so grateful. I once heard the Rev. Mr.
Chase say, when preaching in the Mariners' Church in Koosevelt-
street, at New- York, — Ah ! I shall never see that flag again, — Grati-
tude, he said, was an evidence of grace in the heart. I hope it is so,
for I can assure you, my dear sir, that the Antarctic has some grateful
hearts on board."

After many more expressions of this kind, he begged me to leave hiai,

348 DEATH OF SPINNEY. [1829.

and go to my sick wife and the officers, as they might need my assist- ^^
ance. 1 immediately went aft, where I found that my wife was totally r'
deprived of lier reason by the violence of her fever, and that Mr. Hunt
was in the same helpless situation. Three of the seamen, also, ap-
peared to be struck with death, viz. Alexander Moony, of New- York ;
George Strong, of Albany ; and William Baker, of England. They
said they believed they were dying, and wished to take their leave of
jne. I expressed a hope that their present feelings resulted from the
breaking of the fever, which was evidently at a crisis, and if such was
the case, their sensations must of necessity be very disagreeable ; and
that they must not be alarmed at seeing themselves fall away to mere
skeletons in a few hours. This was the fact. While the fever was
on them, they were apparently gaining flesh ; but the moment the
fever left them they became thin and collapsed, attended with exces-
sive weakness.

Poor Spinney, who was lying near them, addressed himself to them
with his usual technicality — " Shipmates," said he, " you need not begin
to look out for land yet, for you have not yet come anywhere near
soundings. I have been on soundings now for about thirty-six hours,
with a fair wind, wafting me gently in towards the shore ; and I have
lately shoalen'd my water so fast, that I shall soon make the land of
Paradise ; where, after passing the channel of death, I shall moor my
little vessel head and stern, and keep all a-tanto, as we shall never
have a breeze in that Pacific Ocean that will drag such a ship as mine
from her moorings."

He was now sUent a few minutes, and then said that he felt himself
going very fast. " Captain Morrell," said he, " my life-lines are car-
ried away ; but 1 have got a Branch Pilot that will carry me safely into
port. He has ab-eady taken the helm, and in a few moments I shall
be over the bar^ and safely moored in the sailors snug harbour. Fare-
well, captain, and be sure to engage this same Pilot ; He is the only
one that has a branch ; and you must engage him beforehand, for
such are His conditions. Farewell, shipmates — remember the Pilot —
his name is Jesus."

After saying much more to the same purpose, and thanking God
that he retained his senses to the last, he once more gave me his hand,
and then said, " Captain, tell me if I lie as I should ;" then folding his
hands across his breast, closing his eyes, he once more repeated the
words " God bless you, captain ! Oh, blessed Jesus, how happy I
am to be with thee !" In two minutes more he was a corpse. This .
occurred at one hour after midnight — a gloomy hour for us all.

This incident appeared to strike terror into the hearts of all the rest
of the crew ; it being the second death in about twenty-six hours, while
two others were added to the sick list, with little grounds for hope that
any of the sick would recover. The heat of the weather, the mercury
being at 93'^, rendered it necessary to hasten the funeral obsequies of
poor Spinney, A^iiich took place, with every customary solemnity, on
the following morning, at half-past eleven, A. M., in lat. 22° 30' S.,
long. 21° 15' W. The scene was rendered more solemn by the still-
ness of the atmosphere and the smoothness of the ocean, which spread

Nov.] A SICK WIFE. 349

around us like a polished mirror. Tlie topsail was settled on the cap,
the main-peak dropped, and the ensign at half-mast ; and each of them
seemed to sleep, or rather to droop, in silent sorrow. We had just
parted with the south-east trade-winds.

These solemnities were scarce completed, when my brother-in-law
came to me with the heart-rending intelligence that his sister was
dying ! My cup of affliction now seemed to be full — my bosom was
more than full — I felt a suffocating sensation in my throat, which pre-
cluded the possibility of speech. I turned to follow him aft, when one
of the sailors told me that William Baker and George Strong were
both dying, and wished to see me. I was now, for a few moments,
completely unmanned, and gave free vent to my feelings, throwing my
arms around her brother's neck,

" And, like a school-boy, blubbered on his bosom."

A dying wife on one hand — two dying seamen on the other — both
claims imperative — both urged by duty — one by the tenderest affection.
For some moments I hesitated, and knew not how to decide. Self
had to yield. I motioned the brother to return to the fair sufferer in
the cabin, while I descended into the forecastle, where I found the
two men alluded to raving like maniacs, under the influence of deli-
rium, caused by the raging fever, -which had again set in with ten-
fold violence. Finding, however, on examining their situation, that
they were not so low as they had been reported to be, I left them, and
hastened aft to my suffering wife, who had just come out of a fit of the
fever, and was now falling into a doze.

As I approached her bedside, I heard her say, " Oh, Benjamin is
with those poor sick men, or he would not have been absent so long.
I fear that somethmg is the matter — they must be getting worse." I
then spoke to her, and asked her if she was sensible of being any
M'orse herself. " I think I am," was her reply. " But how are the
poor sailors ? How are Samuel Geer}', and Daniel Spinney, and all
the rest of the sick ?" I answered, evasively, that they were about
the same as they were in the morning. " Ah, me !" she replied, " what
would poor Geery's mother do, if she knew that her son was so sick
on the wide ocean ; it would almost make her crazy. I heard her
say, only a day or two before we sailed, M'hile she was making some
shirts and things for Samuel, that it appeared to her as if she was
making a shroud for him." I told my wife that affection often con-
jured up such phantoms of the imagination, and begged her not to
fatigue herself with talking ; but she gave her brother directions, as
usual, to carry refreshments to the patients in the forecastle.

I now found that Mr. Hunt was so low that he was unable to turn
himself in bed, except when the fever was on him ; at which time he
would rave in the most boisterous manner. During those paroxysms
of the fever, his flesh, like that of my wife, was so extremely hot that
it almost burnt my hand to touch any part of the surface of his body ;
■while the skin was so excessively dry that it seemed on the point of
cracking.

350 GLOOMY PROSPECTS. [1829,

Nov. 5th. — On Tliursday, the 5ili, we were in latitude 26° 50' south,
long. 21° 30' west, about lour hundred leagues east of the Isle of St.
Catharine, on the coast of Brazil. The fever still raged with great
violence among the unfortunate inmates of the Antarctic. Through
the mercy of Providence, my health yet remained unimpaired, not-
withstanding my continued watchfulness and anxiety of mind. I
acknowledged this favour with gratitude, as I did also that of lyoderate
breezes, fair weather, and a smooth sea, which attended us during this
period of aflliction.

Not: 9th. — On Monday, tlie 9tli of November, 1 was happy to per-
ceive that the fever had left Mr. Scott and tv/o of the seamen, aflbrding
reasonable hopes of their ultimate recovery. The rest still remained
in a very critical, if not hopeless situation. This day my wife sent for
and told me that she would no longer conceal from me the fact that
her hours were numbered, as she felt that she could not survive another
day. She therefore wislied to communicate freely with me on the
subject, and charge me with some messages for her mother, father,
brothers, sisters, and our dear little boy, who would soon be a mother-
less orphan. She wished me to cut off some of her hair, and give
each of them a lock ; with an injunction to preserve it for the sake
of one who had loved them, and prayed for their happiness day and
night.

" Tell my dear mother not to weep forme," said she ; " for I shall
die happy, and expect to meet her in heaven. Tell my brothers and
sisters to be kind to their mother, and to seek their Creator in the days
of their youth. Tell them to be kind to our dear little boy, and early-
initiate him in the path of virtue, which alone leads to happiness. I
need not ask you, Benjamin, to be kind to your son, the pledge of our
mutual loves ; but I pray you to be so to my alllicted mother, and to
all the family. I know she will grieve on account of my not returning
with you, and make herself sick. But you will comfort her, Benjamin,
and assure her that I died happy. Do not fail to bring up our dear
little boy in the fear of the Lord. Have a locket made of my hair,
and tell our little William that he must always wear it about his neck ;
that when he looks at it, he may be reminded that he once had a fond
and doling mother, who blessed him with her dying breath ; and teach
him to pray that he may meet her in heaven."

. After a little pause, she contiilued : " There is only one thing, Ben-
jamin, that makes me feel unpleasant ; and that is, the idea of my body
being thrown overboard, after my departure, and becoming food for
sharks." On saying this, she was extremely affected, and wept aloud.
Were I to live till the day of general doom, the pang I felt at that
moment would be still fresh in my recollection. It was anguish un-
luterable — like cutting in twain the life-strings of my heart ; knowing,
as I did, that nothing but the purest affection for me had induced hc^
to accompany me on this disastrous enterprise. As soon as I could
command mv voice, I assured her, in the most solemn manner, that if
her dear spirit was called hence by her Saviour, the mortal covering
which it must first put off should be carefully and sacredly preserved,
until it could be decently deposited in consecrated ground ; or, if such

Nov.] CONVALESCENCE—TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. 351

was her desire, until my return to New- York. She thanked me sweetly
for this assurance, and said if her body could only be kept from the
monsters of the deep, she cared not on what distant shore it was
buried. I repeated my promise, which acted like a charm on her
drooping spirits, and wonderfully revived her languishing frame. At
her own earnest request, I now left her, to look to the sick oJfKcers
and seamen, and administer such medicines and refreshments as their
circumstances required.

Nov. I2th. — On Thursday, the r2th, I found, to my unspeakable
joy, that the fever had left my wife, and all the seamen, with the ex-
ception of George Strong, and the first officer, IVIr. Moses Hunt, who
>vere still lying very low, and not expected to live.
- Nov. lith. — On Saturday, the 14th, however, I had the satisfaction
of seeing the Antarctic entirely free from the disease, though many of
its inmates were much debilitated. If ever an ejaculation of heartfelt
thanksgiving ascended from human lips to the throne of Divine Mercy,
it was on that day. The convalescent seamen now began to evince
the welcome symptoms of returning appetites, which M'as also the case
with my wife, in whose eyes I could perceive a faint dawning of their
former brilliancy. AVe had now been five weeks on the ocean, and the
condition of the invalids on board made it very desirable to touch
at some port and procure refreshments. The islands of Tristan
d'Acunha being near at hand, I resolved to make them as soon as possible.
We were now in latitude 36° 2' south, long. 14"^ 22, west, with the
wind from south-south-west ; atmosphere hazy.

Nov. 15th. — Accordingly,'thenextday, which was Sunday, the 15lh,
at 4 P. M., saw the Antarctic close in with the north side of the largest
island of the three, about half a mile from the shore, with fine weather,
and a moderate breeze from south-west. Here we lay ofl" and on,
until we had taken on board a large supply of refreshments, including
live-stock, such as sheep, pigs, poultry, &:c., with a variety of vegetables,
"which were of great value to us in our present situation, and assisted
much in restoring our invalids to health. We found only seven families
on this island, living a retired life, far from the bustle and confusion of
tlie world, and happy within themselves, having at their command all
the necessaries and many of the comforts of life.

352 TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. [1829.

CHAPTER II.

Island of Tristan d'Acunha — King Lambert — Governor Glass — Gongh's Island —
Kerguclen's Land — Cape Desolation — Lord Auckland's Group — New-year's
Festivities — Learning to walk — Natural Productions of the Island — The
Schooner Henry, Captain Johnson, their probable Fate — The Snares — Stew-
art's Isle, or South Cape of New-Zealand — Molyneux's Harbour — Intercourse
with the Natives of New- Zealand.

Tristan D'Acunha is the largest of three islands in the South At-
lantic ocean ; in latitude 37° 8^ south, long. 12° 8' west; about fifteen
hundred miles eastward from the mouth of Rio de la Plata, in South
America, and about the same distance west-bj^-south from the Cape
of Good Hope. It is fifteen miles in circumference, and is so much
elevated, that it can be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of twenty-
five leagues. The three islands together form a triangle, of which
Tristan is the north-east point. The other two islands were named
by the French, in 1767; the most westerly being called Inaccessible^
and the other, which is the smallest and most southerly, Nightingale
Island.

In approaching this group from the north, we make the largest island,
Tristan, at a vast distance, varying, of course, according to the state of
the atmosphere. A part of the island, towards the north, rises perpen-
dicularly from the sea, to the height of a thousand feet or more. A
level tRen commences, extending towards the centre, forming what
seamen term table-land ; above which rises a conical mountain, not un-
like in appearance the Peak of Teneriffe, as seen from the bay of
Santa Cruz. Trees grow half-way up this sugar-loaf eminence, but
above that it consists of bare and rugged rocks, frequently hidden by
the clouds ; with a summit which is covered with snow during the
greatest part of the year, notwithstanding that no snow falls on the
coast. In coming close in with the north side of this island, the An-
"Tarctic was completely overshadowed by that perpendicular elevation
of a thousand feet, which rises '• like a moss-grown wall immediately
from the ocean." There are no shoals or other dangers about the
island, which is of circular shape, with bold shores and deep water.

On the north-west side of the island is a bay, with a fine beach of
black sand, where boats may land with southerly winds ; this bay,
however, is open and exposed to winds from* the opposite quarter.
Here are two cascades of excellent water, in sufficient quantity to
supply a large fleet ; and the casks could be filled by means of a long
hose, without moving them from the boats. A plenty of fish may be
caught with hook and line, among which are an excellent kind of large
perch, some weighing six pounds, crawfish, and a fine species of the
cod. Good anchorage may be found close in to the land, in eighteen
fathoms of water ; also at a quarter of a league from shore, in thirty
fathoms, gray sand mixed with small pebbles.

Nov.] TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. 353

Inaccessible Island, which forms the western point of the triangle,
lies in latitude 37° 17' south, long. 12° 24' west. It presents a high
bluff, of forbidding appearance, which may be seen at the distance of
twelve or fourteen leagues. It is about six miles in circmnference,
with a high Hat top, barren, steep, and apparently inaccessible ; some
scattered shrubs onlv are to be seen on it. There are no dangers about
it, with the exception of a rock, which appears like a boat under
sail, at the south-east point. The ship Blenden Hall, Captain Greig,
from London to Bombay, wa;^ totally lost on this island, on the 23d
of July, 1821 ; eight of the crew perished, in attempting to reach
Tristan in an open boat, of their own construction.

Nightingale Island, the smallest of the group, forms the southern
point of the triangle, and lies in latitude 37° 26' south, long. 12° 12'
west. It is descried at the distance of seven or eight leagues, appears
irregTilar, with a hollow in the middle, and a small rocky islet at its
southern extremity. Captain Patten, of the ship Industry, of Phila-
delphia, mentions " a high reef of rocks, or rocky islets, off the south
end of the smallest island ;" and M. d'Etchevery, a French navigator,
says, " It has on the north-east point two islets, separated from it about
fifty paces, and which have the appearance of an old ruined fort."

This group was first discovered by the Portuguese in their earlier
navigations in these seas, and was further explored and described by the
Dutch in 1643, and by the French in 1767. The islands are all of a
circular shape, and consist of very high land, with clear open passages
between them. They are about three and five leagues apart. Their
shores are frequented by hair and fur-seal, sea-lions, sea-elephants,
penguins, and albatross. Whales abound in the offing, and I saw
several sword-fish near the coast.

Captain Patten, mentioned above, resided for seven months* on Tris-
tan, the largest of these islands, with a part of his crew, for the pur-
pose of collecting seal-skins ; during which time he obtained five thou-
sand six hundred, for the Chinese m.arket ; and could, he says, have
loaded a large ship with oil in three weeks. September he reckoned
to be the best month for making oil at these islands. He says that
during his stay here, " the prevailing winds were from the northward
and westward ; the easterly and southerly winds blowing but seldom,
and scarcely ever longer than twenty-four hours at a time. It gene-
rally blows fresh, and frequently very hard, from the north-west ; and
when a gale came on, it was generally preceded by a very heavy sea,
rolling in someiimes twelve, and sometimes twenty-four hours, before
the wind rose. The weather is very subject to be thick and hazy,
attended with much rain. The summer months are warm, and the cold
in winter is not severe."

Captain Patten's people pitched their tents near the bay before men-
tioned and the waterfalls, in the vicinity of which there is a plenty
of wood. He tells us " the trees do not grow high, but their branches
bend down and spread on the ground. The foliage of the trees that
principally abound resembles that of the yew-tree, but the wood is

» From August, 1790, to April, 1791,

:354 TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. [1829.

like that of the maple, and burns remarkably well ; the trunks are
full ten feet in hciglit, and about nine inches in diameter. There
arc no large or tall trees to be met \vith. A great deal of drift-wood
is found on the east side of the island, but none to the westward.
Abundance of wild celery, sour dock (sorrel), and wild parsley is met
with."

With respect to animals, the number and variety have been con-
siderably augmented since Captain Paiten was here in 1791, when
there were no quadrupeds to be met with on tlie island, " except some
goats, left there by former navigators, which were very wild." There
are now bullocks, sheep, goats, hogs, dogs, and rabbits. " Neither
vermin nor venomous creatures of any description," says he, "were
observed. Of birds, the principal were a kind of gannets, like wild
geese, which the sailors considered as excellent food ; penguins, alba-
tross. Cape cocks and hens, and a bird like a partridge, but of a black
colour, which cannot fly, is easily run down, and is very well flavoured ;
and a variety of small birds that frequent the bushes and underwood.
Abundance of birds' eggs are to be obtained in the proper season."

The most conspicuous feature of this island is the sugar-loaf or
conical mountain, near its centre. Between the foot of this mountain
and the shore there is a considerable extent of level land, " the soil
of which is a fine rich loam, of a red colour, and considerable depth,
apparently adapted to the production of every kind of vegetables ; and
excepting the danger of devastation from high winds, adequate to any
sjultivation." The productions of the other islands are nearly the same
as those of the large one. Captain Colquhoun, of the American brig
Betsy, touched at Tristan, and planted potatoes, onions, and a variety
of other seeds, which grew and multiplied.

Captain Heywood was at this island in 1811, where he found three
Americans, who proposed remaining a few years, in order to prepare
seal-skins and oil, and sell the same to vessels that might touch there.
One of these enterprising Yankees was named Jonathan Lambert, who
by a curious and singular edict declared himself sovereign proprietor
of these islands. " In a short time he cleared about fifty acres of land,
and planted various kinds of seed, some of which, as well as the coffee-
tree and sugar-cane, were furnished by the American minister at Rio
Janeiro. The seeds sprang up, appeared very promising, and the
general aspect was that of a valuable and important settlement. The
'^s'hole was, however, abandoned, and final possession afterward taken
'in the name of the British government, by a detachment from the Cape
jof Good Hope." This was in the year 1817.

After all this, however, the island was again evacuated, and given up
as a British establishment, when several families voluntarily went to
it, and took up their abode on it, entirely independent of control from
that government. "The island of Tristan d'Acunha," says a London
paper of April, 1824, " has now upon it, living in great happiness,
itwenty-two men and three women. The Berwick, Captain Jefferj-,
vfrom London to Van Dieman's Land, sent her boat ashore on the
25th of March. The sailors were surprised at finding an Englishman
oi the name of Glass, formerly a corporal in the artillery, and the rest

]Vov.] COUGH'S ISLAND. 355

of the above-named population. Glass gave a very favourable account
of the island, and declared that if they had but a few more women,
the place would be an earthly paradise. He is a sort of governor at
Tristan d'Acunha, by appointment of the rest, on account of his mili-
tary character ; and he trades in a small schooner to the Cape of Good
Hope, with the oil of the sea-elephant and the skins of the seal, which
they catch in great abundance."

At the time that we touched at this island, on the 15th of Novem-
ber, 1829, we found seven families, living very comfortably under the ad-
ministration of Governor Glass, having for sale a plenty of bullocks, cows,
sheep, hogs, goats, rabbits, and poultry ; also potatoes, cabbages, beets,
parsnips, carrots, onions, and pumpkins ; together with butter, cheese,
eggs, and milk : all of which can be had at short notice, on moderate
.€rms, and in any quantities. Some of the invalids of the Antarctic
pronounced this island to be " a land flowing with milk and honey."
Tlie inhabitants were very friendly, accommodating, and hospitable ;
and expressed their sympathy for the situation of my crew, not so much
in words as in actions. They pressed upon me many little palatable
dainties, with a disinterestedness and delicacy which did them honour.
I hope to call and see them again.

November 17 th, — On Monday, the 16th, at 7, P. M., we left the
island of Tristan d'Acunha, and steered to the south and east, with a
moderate breeze from west-south-west, and fair weather ; and on Tues-
day, the 17th (nautical time), at 5, A. M., we were close in with
Gough's Island, or Diego Alvarez, as it was originally named by the
Portuguese who discovered it. In 1713 it was seen by Captain
Charles Gough, in the Richmond, bound to China ; since which it has
been called by his name. In 1811, on the 8th of January, it was
visited by Captain Heywood, in the Nereus, who situated the centre
of the island in latitude 49^ 19' 30" S., and in longitude 9<5 49' W. I
agree with him in the latitude ; but we differ in the longitude, as I
make the east point of the island in long. 9^ 41' W.

The summit of this island, according to Captain Heywood's calcula-
tion, is four thousand three hundred and eighty feet above the level of
the sea ; the surface being mostly covered with a light coat of mossy
grass. In some places were a few small bushy trees, like those of
Tristan d'Acunha. " The cliffs rise preciphously from the sea, and
from their fissures issue several beautiful cascades of water." On thp
north side of the island, a little to the eastward of one of the rocky
islets which adjoin that side of the main island, is a small cove, in
which boats may land with perfect safety, when the wind blows from
any point south of north-west or east. Here water may be obtained
with ease, by running the vessel close in to the front of the cove, where
she can anchor in twelve or fourteen fathoms, with the huts at the
head of the cove bearing south-south-west, and the north and eastern-
most islet bearing about norih-west. There is a safe passage between
these islets and the main island, with fifteen fathoms of water, over a
rocky bottom.

There is a rock near the north-east point of the island, which ex-
actly resembles a church, having an elevated spire on its western end ;

356 CONVALIISCENT PATIE^TS. [182^

and it is called Church Rock. " To ihe southward of this rock, on
the east side of the island, near the shore, there is jm inlet within
which the landing is safe and easy, it being protected from the swell
and northerly winds by the north-east point. Here several Americans
formerly resided : but they had been unsuccessful during a long stay,
most of the seal having deserted the island ; but plenty of fish were
procured, and birds of good flavour were caught, by lighting ii fire upon
one of the hills in the night."

This island used to abound with fur-seal and sea-elepliants ; but
they were so much annoyed by their relentless persecutors, that they
have sought more safe and distant retreats — perhaps some lonely isles
in the southern ocean, as yet unknown to the fell destroyer, man ?
These places might be easily found, however, if merchants were
willing to risk the expense of the attempt. But our capitalists^
generally, are timid adventurers, and cautious of venturing out of old-
beaten tracks.

November ISth. — On Wednesday, the 18th, we continued on our
course to the south and east, wafted along by fine western breezes.
The sick now began to recover, so as to sit up for a few minutes at a
time ; but they appeared more like living skeletons than any thing else
I can now compare them to. Their countenances were peaked, sunken,
hollow, cadaverous, and, in short, horribly frightful — full as much so
as those of cholera patients in a state of collapse. But they were
evidently improving slowly, as they could take chicken soup quite
freely, together with a little custard, made of the milk which I pro-
cured at Tristan d'Acunha, and which was boiled and bottled up for
the use of the sick.

My wife now began to gain a little strength, so that she could sit up
in her bed fifteen or twenty minutes at a time. But the fever had left
her a perfect cripple, being quite drawn out of shape ; as her limbs
could not be straightened, and her ankles were drawn nearly up to her
body. But still she suffered no pain. The application of various
kinds of liniments produced no good effect, and poultices were equally
unsuccessful. I next tried a very strong decoction of tobacco, with
which I bathed the affected parts several times a day, concluding the
operation by binding on the leaves, and keeping them moist with the
liquid in which they had been boiled. A steady perseverance in this
course of treatment was crowned with success ; her limbs were re-
stored to their natural position, and the symmetry of her person re-
mained unimpaired.

Some of the seamen were now taken down with a violent flux,
which I vainly endeavoured to check with all the assistance I could
derive from the medicine-chest. They grew worse, and became ex-
cessively weak. I then peeled white oak-bark from the firewood
which we had on board, and boiled it to a strong tea, which I re-
peatedly administered to them, in very small doses, for the space of
forty-eight hours. This had the desired eflect ; their bowels became
regular, their appetites returned, and they recovered strength very
rapidly.

November "ilsi. — On Saturday, the 21st, being in lat. 44° 30' S.,

Pec] KERGUELEN'S L.\ND. 357

long. 5^ 45' E., we took strong gales from the west and west-by-north,
accompanied with a heavy sea. Although our little bark was an ex-
cellent sea-boat, and made good weather of it, yet it was a very
fatiguing time for me, as it was necessary for me to stand the deck
nearly all the time, the officers being still confined to the cabin, and too
weak to help themselves. The convalescent invalids in the forecastle,
also, claimed much of my attention and assistance.

We continued running before the wind, under the head of the fore-
sail and close-reefed fore-topsail, making a direct course for the north
cape of Kerguelen's Land, or the island of Desolation,* going a great
part of the time at the rate of thirteen miles an hour, in snow and
hail-squalls, for about a fortnight.

December 5th. — On Saturday, the 5th day of December, at four, A.
M., we made the north cape of Desolation, bearing south-east, distant
three leagues ; and at six, A. M., we were close in with the entrance
of Christmas Harbour. But finding the wind coming out of the bay
in such violent gusts as took the water up in sheets, we were obhged
to relinquish the idea of working into the anchorage. We therefore
stood alongshore, on the east side of the island, towards the south,
under easy sail, examining the islets and coast as we went along for
fur-seal, but found none. On the different beaches, however, we saw-
about a thousand sea-elephants.

December 6th. — As I had not averaged more than one hour and a
half of sleep in each twenty-four hours since we crossed the equator,
and being nearly overcome with fatigue and anxiety of mind, I was
desirous to bring the Antarctic to a safe anchorage for a few hours, in
order that I might enjoy sufficient repose to restore my exhausted
energies. But this desirable object could not be conveniently effected ;
for on the night of the 6th the wind increased to a perfeci gale from
west-north-west, attended with a thick snow-storm. Being satisfied,
from the range of coast which we had already examined, and from the
thorough survey that I had given this island on a former voyage, that
there were no fur-seal to be procured here, we bore up at four, A. M.,
and steered east-south-east, before the wind, under a three-reefed fore-
sail, the two bonnets off the jib, and a close-reefed fore-topsail. Under
this little canvass we made three hundred and twenty-seven miles'
distance in twenty-four hours ; averaging more than thirteen and a half
miles an hour for the whole distance. We continued running at this
rate for three days, when we found that we had made nine himdred
and fifty-seven miles' distance by log, and nine hundred and eighty-
two by astronomical observations.

December I8th. — The wind now moderated, and hauled to the south-
south-east, with Itght breezes and fair weather ; but on Friday, the 18th,
being in lat. 50° 30' S., long. 127° 15 E., we again took a strong
breeze from west-by-south, attended with squalls of hail and snow.
We continued our course, steering for Lord Auckland's Group, without
seeing any indications of land, or any ice ; but great numbers of oceanic

♦ See the Ftrst Voyage, Chapter IV., p. 62.

358 AUCKLAND'S ISLES. [183(r..

birds of clifTerent kinds. The sick were now recovering very fast, but
as yet neither of the officers was able to stand the deck.

December 28th. — We had variable winds and occasional thick wea-
ther from the 18th until Monday, the 28th, when we arrived at Lord
Auckland's Group, and at eleven, A. M., anchored in Carnley's Harbour,
in four fathoms of water, clay bottom, sheltered from all winds.

After giving the Antarctic the whole length of her two bower cables,.
I had our invalids all brought upon deck, to enjoy the salubrity of the
air, the beauty of the scene, and the delicious fragrance wafted to us
from the neighbouring groves, which abound with flowers of the most
beautiful tints and the sweetest odours. Nature reigns here in all her
virgin charms, unrifled, unpolluted — for man, the self-styled lord of her
treasures, has not yet intruded on this Eden of the south, to mar the
beauty of her works.

December 29th, — On the morning of Tuesday, the 29th, I arose from
my couch refreshed and invigorated by the first night's rest I had en-
joyed for a long time. The weather was delightful ; and the singing
of thousands of birds, of various species, was very exhilarating to our
spirits. We again brought the sick upon deck, to inhale the health-
ful air, and enjoy the surrounding prospect. We then proceeded to
the task of cleansing, purifying, and disinfecting every part of the An-
tarctic which was capable of containing the least impure air. Every
article of bedding, clothing, <fec., from the largest size down to that
of a pocket-handkerchief, was washed, fumigated, and suspended sep-
arately on the rigging. The hold and cabin were smoked with sulphur,
and washed with vinegar in every part that could be got at.

December 30th. — On the following day, which was Wednesday, the
30th, the convalescent officers and seamen were so much recruited in
health and spirits that they were able to take a short walk on shore,
which much accelerated the progress of their recovery. On their return
they gave the most animating descriptions of the fertility and beauty
of the little range of country they had walked over.

December 31 st. — We now began to make preparations for examin-
ing the island for fur-seal ; and on Thursday, the 3 1st, Messrs. Hunt
and Johnson started on a cruise with the two boats, in search of the
animals whose garments we coveted. Those who were still on the
sick-list made themselves useful in repairing the sails and getting the
vessel in order, after her thorough purification.

January \st^ 1830. — On the following morning, it being New-year's
day, the compliments of the season were most cordially given, and
as heartily reciprocated by every soul on board. The day was cele-
brated by shooting a number of fine wild-ducks, on which the invalids
made a hearty dinner. Tn the afternoon we hauled the seine, but with
310 great success. Before we returned on board, however, we collected
a large quantity of purslain and celery, together with a great number
of beautiful wild-flowers, which filled the cabin and forecastle with
such a grateful perfume, that it was like sleeping among roses. We
also found some beautiful berries, of which I brought a small quantity
on board to my wife, who appeared much enlivened by the sight of the

Jan.] AUCKLAND ISLES. 35^

flowers and the fruit, and especially by a little bird, of exquisite plu-
mage, which we caught in the forest.

For the first time since the 26ih of October, my wife now attempted
to walk alone, i)y the assistance of her brother and myself, who sta-
tioned ourselves at a short distance apart in the cabin, with our arma
extended, while she would totter from one to the other, in the same
manner as an infant is first taught to venture itself alone on its tiriy
feet. The success of this experiment filled her with such joy that it
quite overcame her ; and while resting her head on my shoulder, she
poured out from the fulness of her heart a prayer of gratitude and
praise to Heaven, for this and other blessings she had experienced.
On becoming a little more composed, she exclaimed, " Oh, if my deai*
mother could but just see me beginning to learn to walk, after being
deprived so long of the use of my limbs, how thankful to Heaven she
"Would be, for this act of mercy to her daughter."

In the course of a subsequent conversation, of a very affecting and
interesting character, respecting the afflictions which had attended our
voyage since we left New-York, she evinced so much philosophical
calmness, pious resignation, and humble reliance on the wisdom and
mercy of her Creator, that I ventured to communicate to her, for the
first time, the fact of Geery and Spinney's having been removed to
another state of existence.

The shock of this disastrous intelligence overcame her assumed
fortitude at once ; she burst into tears, and for some time refused to-
be consoled. Young Geery had been the favoured and accepted suiter
of her sister, to whom he was solemnly betrothed when we sailed oi^
this ill-omened voyage. " Do let me weep, Benjamin," said my wife,
"for I cannot help it — these tears will relieve my almost bursting
heart. He was the lover of my sister ; and a more noble or more
manly soul never animated the human frame. He was worthy of her
affections, and he possessed them. I weep for her, and his poor
mother, whose heart will break when she hears the dreadful news.
You know, Benjamin, that she doted on Samuel ; and his filial affec-
tion was most exemplary. Poor disconsolate mother ! you was indeed
making the shroud of your son !"

Why should I prolong or extend this scene any farther ? I can
portray but a very faint and imperfect picture of the reality ; and
though of the most thrilling interest to the parties concerned, the reader
may think it a dull, heavy impediment to the progress of the voyage..
I will therefore return to our nautical duties.

Our long, aflecting, and, I trust, not unprotilable conversation was-
at length interrupted by the arrival on board of some of our invalicf
seamen, who had been recreating themselves in the majestic groves
and delightful valleys of this charming island. On meeting them at
the gangway, I found that they had brought a few berries, and a
splendid collection of the most beautiful flowers, intended, they said^
expressly for Mrs. Morrell. They felt their health and strength im-
proving very fast, they said, and hoped, by the blessing of God, to be
able to go to their duty on the following day. This was agreeable in-

360 CARNLEV'S HARBOUR. [1830.

telligence to me, as we had considenible work to do, our sails and rig-
g'ms being very much out of repair.

January 2d. — On the following morning, which was Saturday, the
2d of January, after committing my wife to the care of h^ brother,
and setting all hands at work that were on board, I took the small
boat and -went on shore, with the intention of taking a stroll about the
island. I travelled about five miles, over wood-crowned hills, fertile
plains, and luxuriant valleys ; and on my return to the vessel, at 7,
P. M., I carried with me, as trophies and specimens, several beautiful
birds which I had shot, and a large collection of flowers.

January/ ith. — On Monday, the 4th, at 8, P. M., the boats returned,
after pulling round the island, without seeing a single fur-seal, and not
more than twenty of the hair kind. The boats were immediately taken
np, and preparations made for leaving this group of islands on the fol-
lowing morning. In the mean time, I presume that a brief description
of the principal one, in a harbour of which we now lay at anchor, will
not be uninteresting to the reader.

Auckland's Group,* as it is called on the charts, is a cluster of
islands, only one of which is large enough to deserve the name, and
that is twenty-five miles in length, from north to south, and fifteen in
width, from east to west. It is situated about two hundred and fifty
miles south of New-Zealand, and as many leagues south-east of Van
Dieman's Land, being in the South Pacific Ocean, in lat. 51° 0' south,
long. 166^20' east. It was discovered, with its surrounding islets, by
Captain A. Bristow, in 1806. It is moderately elevated, the highest
points being about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. It is
indented with a number of fine harbours, where ships can lie in safety,
sheltered from all Minds. A few islets lie on its eastern side; two or
three others are on its western side, one of which is called Disappoint-
ment Island ; Adams's Island lies off its south end, sheltering the fine
harbour in which we lay at anchor, tlie eastern point of which is called
Cape Bennett. On the north-east is Enderby's Island, and on the
north Bristow's Rock.

Carnley's Harbour makes in about four miles to the eastward of the
south cape ; and the entrance is formed by two blufi' points, from which,
to the head of the lagoon, the distance is fifteen miles. The passage is
about two miles wide, and entirely clear of dangers, within twenty-
five fathoms of each shore. It runs in first north-north-west, then
north and north-north-east : forming, at the head of the lagoon, a beau-
tiful basin, with sufficient room for half a dozen sliips to moor. The
least water from the entrance until we came near the anchorage was
tw^enty fathoms, mid-channel. We anchored in fom: fathoms, clav
ground.

The western side of this island is a perpendicular, bluff, iron-bound
coast, with deep water within a hundred fathoms of the shore ; while
the eastern coast is principally lined with a pebbly or sandy beach,
behind which are extensive level plains, covered with beautiful groves,

* This group was so named in honour of Ix)rd Auckland, who died eight years afterward. This
nobleman began his career in 1776, being one of the cuinmissioners apjwinted to j»ropose terms of
peace to the American congress. Ilis colleagues were Lord Howe, Sir Henry Clinton, ice. Th9
result is well known.

Jan.] SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. 361

and refresliing verdure, extending back about five miles, and then rising
into elevated hills. The view from the vessel, in approaching this side
of the islajnd, is therefore very pleasing and picturesque.

All the hills, excepting a few of the highest, are thickly covered
with forests of loftv trees, flourishing with such extraordinary vigour
as to afford a magnificent prospect to the spectator. The large trees
are principally of two -sorts : one of them is of the size of our large
firs, and grows nearly in the same manner ; its foliage is an excellent
substitute for spruce in making that pleasant and wholesome beverage,
spruce-beer. The other resembles our maple, and often grows to a
great size ; but is only fit for ship-building or fuel, being too heavy for
masts or spars of any dimensions. A great variety of trees grow in
the valleys and on the plains, one of which bears a kind of plum, about
the size of a prune ; it ripens yellow, but has an unpleasant taste,
though eaten by most of the crew. Another tree bears flowers very
much like the m}Ttle. There also grows here a species of polyadel-
phus, the leaves of which we used for tea, and found them to be an
excellent substitute.

The quality of the soil on this island is sufficiently indicated by the
uniform luxuriant growth of all its productions. Were the forests
cleared away, very few spots would be found that could not be con-
verted to excellent pasturage, or tillage land. The valleys and plains,
and hill-sides, and every spot where the rays of the sun can penetrate,
are now clothed with a strong, heavy, luxuriant grass, interspersed with
many natural specimens of the boundless treasures of nature's vegeta-
ble kingdom. This extraordinary strength of vegetation is no doubt
greatly assisted by the agreeable temperature of the climate, which is
very fine.

Antiscorbutical plants may be procured here in great abvmdance.
Along the margins of the coves, and by the sides of all the fresh water
streams, the wild celery flourishes in great profusion. Scurvj'-grass
is also seen in almost every direction. All ship-masters on long
voyages know the wonh of these plants in cases of the scur\'y. They
are very palatable and refreshing, whether prepared as sdads or boiled
as greens. Besides the vegetables already mentioned, there are eu-
phorbia, crane's-bill, cud-weed, rushes, bind-weed, nightshade, nettles,
thistles, virgin's-bower, vanelloe, French willow, flax, all-heal, knot-
grass, brambles, eye-bright, groundsel, and a variety of others, for
which I know no appellation ; and many of those already mentioned difler
in many respects from plants of the same family in the United States.

From my own observations, combined with the reports of others, I
must infer that this section of the animal kingdom is rather indiffer-
ently stocked, with the single exception of its ornithological depart-
ment. No quadruped has ever been seen on this island, nor even a
trace of any, larger than the rat. Of reptiles there are only three sorts
of harmless, inoffensive lizards ; and insects are quite limited in num-
ber and variety. - The principal sorts are butterflies, dragon-flies, sand-
flies, grasshoppers, and scorpion-flies, which make the woods echo
with iheir chirping. There are also several sorts of spiders, and a few
black ants.

3G2 BIRDS AND FISH. [1830.

The birds are numerous, and beautiful beyond description ; and I
•was at a loss which most to admire, the lovely tints of their plumag'S
or the sweetness of their liquid melody, with which the forests were
rendered vocal. Two, in particular, attracted the most of my atten-
tion ; one of them a small green bird, and the other a bird about the
size of a quail, with a crest very much like that of the maccaroni-pen-
guin, only much richer, and the back of a changeable blue. These
two birds are the most delightful singers that I ever heard. They
may both very justly be called mocking-birds, for their melody is so
sweet, and their notes so varied, that one would imagine himself sur-
rounded by a hundred difl'erent kinds of birds, all singing at once.
There are three or four other kinds of birds that sing very sweetly,
and several kinds that I never heard sing. I also saw a species of
the cuckoo ; and the gross-beak, about the size of a thrush, is common.
Parrots and paroquets are very numerous, and generally of the most
beautiful plumage. There are likewise a variety of large wood-
pigeons.

But the most curious bird which I saw on this island is called by
some the golden-winged pigeon. It is remarkable for having most of the
wing-feathers marked with golden yellowy changing its colours, ac-
cording to the ditferent lights in which it is viewed, to green and
bronze ; forming, when the wings are closed, two bars across the back.
The bill and legs are red ; the lower part of the neck and the fore-
part of die head are of a dove-colour, and a dark-brownish red passes
each eye. The two middle feathers of the tail are lighter than the
other parts of the plumage, which inclines to a bright lead-colour, with
a bar of black near the ends.

I also saw two kinds of falcons, and three or four species of owls.
Among the rocks we found black sea-pies, with red bills, and crested
shags of a leaden colour. About the shores are a few sea-gulls, black
herons, wild ducks, plovers, sand-larks, snipes, rooks, nellies, and sev-
eral kinds of penguins.

Fish are plenty, and of many varieties. The principal kinds which
fell under our observation while we lay at this island were, rock-cod,
jnackerel, black-fish, skate, blue dolphins, conger-eels, elephant-iish,
mullets, soles, flounders, blue porgies, gurnards, nurses, hake, paracus-
ias, parrot-fish, leather-jackets, and a kind of small salmon. Of all
these, the salmon, rock-cod, and black-fish are the best, being of su-
perior quality. These are the only scale-fish that came under my
notice ; though I have no doubt but there are many more species of
which we know nothing.

Of the different kinds of shellfish the most abundant and most de-
licious are muscles, some of which are from twelve to fifteen inches
in length, and equal, in every respect, to a Blue Point oyster. There
are many others of a smaller size, which are equally fat and palatable.
Clams are plenty on the beaches at low tide, and excellent-flavoured
oysters are found in many places, but their size is very diminutive^
Besides these there are periwinkles, limpets, wilks, sea-eggs, star-fish^
sea-ears, crabs, crawfish, and many other kinds unknown in thia
coimiry.

Jan.] FATE OF CAPTAIN JOHNSON. 363P

On the whole, I think that Auckland's Island is one of the finest
places for a small settlement that can be found on any island in the
southern hemisphere above the latitude of thirty-five. Every valu-
able animal would thrive here, such as bullocks, horses, sheep, goats,
"jhogs, foxes, rabbits, geese, ducks, and poultry of all kinds ; all of wliich
would increase and multiply as fast as in any odier part of the world.
Grain, fruhs, and vegetables of all kinds (excepting the tropical fruits)
could be made to flourish here with very little labour. No island on
the globe, of equal dimensions, can boast so many excellent harbours,
safe, and easy of access ; and at the head of each is a beautiful valley,,
extending inland, admirably calculated for the site of a village. The
whole island is well watered, and would form a delightful retreat to a?
few amiable famihes, who wish for " a dear little isle of their own."

The climate is mild, temperate, and salubrious. I have been told by
men of the first respectability and talents, who had visited this island
in the month of July, the dead of winter in this latitude, corresponding
to our January, that the weather was mild as respects cold, as the mer-
cury was never lower than 38° in the valleys, and the trees at the
same time retained their verdure as if it was midsummer. I have no
doubt but the foliage of many of the trees remains until they are pushed
oif in the following spring by a new crop of buds and leaves. At the
time we were here the mercury in the thermometer seldom rose higher
than 78°, although it answered to our July. The weather is generally
good at all seasons of the year ; although there are occasional high
•winds, attended with heavy rains. These storms, however, seldom last
more than twenty -four hours.

In the year 1823, Captain Robert Johnson, in the schooner Henry,
of New- York, took from this island, and the surrounding islets, about
thirteen thousand of as good fur-seal skins as ever were brought to the
New- York market. He was then in the employment of Messrs.
Byers, Rogers, M'Intyre, and Nixon ; who fitted him out on his second
voyage, in the Henry, in the most complete and liberal manner, in the
year 1824. From this voyage he never returned. He was last seen
at the south cape of New-Zealand, in the following year, having lost
three men, who were drowned at Chatham Islands. Captain Johnson
and the remainder of his crew were then all in good health, and had
seventeen hundred prime fur-seal skins on board the Henry. My in-
formants further stated, that the Henry left New-Zealand on a cruise
to the south and east, in search of new lands, between the sixtieth and
sixty-fifth degrees of south latitude ; and as he has never been heard
of since leaving New-Zealand, it is very probable that he made dis-
covery of some new island near the parallel of 60, on which the Henry
was shipwrecked. I have no doubt, that if a vessel should cruise in
that direction, she would fall in with islands abounding witli fur-seal ;
and possibly find Captain Johnson, or part of his crew, yet ahve. For
the sake of humanity, I hope that the experiment will yet be tried.

Although the Auckland Isles once abounded with numerous herds of
fur and hair-seal, the American and English seamen engaged in this
business have made such clean work of it as scarcely to leave a breed ;
at all events, there was not one fur-seal to be found on the 4lh of Jan-

364 STEWART'S ISLAND NEW-ZEALAND. [1830.

uar}', 1830. We therefore got under way on the morning of Tuesday,
tlie 5ili, at 6 o'clock, and steered for another cluster of islands, or
rather rocks, called " The Snarcs^^' one hundred and eighty miles north
of Auckland's group, and about sixty south of JVew-Zealaiid.

This cluster of craggy rocks is in lat. 48^ 4 south, long. 1G6° 18'
east ; extending five miles in the direction of east-north-east and west-
south-\vest. They were first discovered by Vancouver, who gave them
a name expressive of their character, as being very likely to draw the
unwary mariner into alarming difficulties. We searched them in vain
for fur-seal, with which they formerly abounded. The population was
extinct, cut off, root and branch, by the sealers of Van Dieman's Land,
Sidney, <S^c. We therefore squared away for the south cape of New-
Zealand, M'ith a fine breeze from sOuth-west, and fair weather.

Jan. 7th. — On the morning of Thursday, the 7th, at 5 A. M., we
were close in with the south cape of New-Zealand ; or, more properly,
Stewart's Island, which is separated from the main island by a passage
about twenty miles wide, called Foyeaux's Strait. This passage is
clear of dangers on the south shore, but the north shore presents
numerous islands and reefs, v>ith deep and spacious harbours within
them, running some distance into the mainland.

Stewart's Island, which forms the southern extremity of NeAv-Zea-
land, is of considerable magnitude, and its most southerly point, called
Cape South, is in latitude 47^ 18' south, long. 167^ 14' east. Its
southern and western parts have an elevation of more than two thou-
sand feet above the level of the sea : but on its northern and eastern
sides, the land descends into deep valleys and fertile plains. The
whole surface of the island, except the summits of the most lofty hills,
is covered with a rich mellow soil, clothed with heavy forests of ex-
cellent ship-timber.

On the south-east side of the island is a beautiful and spacious
harbour, the entrance to which is narrow, and easy of access. After
passing within this entrance, it branches off, north and south, in two
arms, in each of which is safe anchorage. This is called South Port ;
and at the time of our visit, a gang of men from Sidney were here, em-
ployed in building a vessel.

The west part of this island is dangerous for a ship to approach in
the night, as there are many reefs running out to the westward, from
three to four miles, on \vhich the sea breaks with great violence. The
coast to the south and east is bold close to the shore, and entirely free
from hidden dangers, half a mile from the land ; but on the north-east
point of tliis island there is a reef running off to the eastward about
three miles, upon which the sea seldom breaks with a westerly wind,
although there is not more than ten feet of water on its extreme pomt.
From Cape South " The Snares" bear about south 38^ west, distant
nineteen leaoues.

Jan. Sth. — On Friday, the 8th of January, we left Stewart's Isle,
Avith a fine breeze from south-south-west, and fair weather, and at 10,
A. M., were close in with what is called Molyneux's Harbour, on the
south-east side of New-Zealand proper; but instead of a "deep and
spacious harbour," as reported by its discoverer, we found nothing but

Jan.] NEW-ZEALAND. 365

a small bend in the land, between two low points about three miles
across, and one mile deep.

We soon had a friendly visit from about fifty natives, who came
on board without the least hesitation, and opened an intercourse with us
without reserve. We made them some trifling presents, which appeared
to give them much pleasure. In return, they gave me a pressing invi-
tation to visit their little village, at the foot of a valley near the head
of the bay. But before I invite the reader to accompany me on shore,
it will be proper to say something about this interesting country of New-
Zealand : the next chapter will therefore commence with a few facts
collected from the most authentic sources, and confirmed by my own
personal observation.

CHAPTER III.

New-Zealand — Intercourse with the Natives — Their Habitations, Apparel, Work-
ing tools, and Weapons — Eating Human Flesh — Face of the Country — Banks's
Peninsula — Cook's Cape, Harbour, and Strait — Visit from the Natives — Women
an Article of Traffic — East Cape — Mercury Bay — Great Utility of Missionaries —
Bay of Islands — Royal Visiters — Visit to the Mission — Orderly Arrangement —
Sail to the North— The New-Hebrides— Hope Island— Steer to the West-
New Discoveries anticipated.

New-Zealani) consists of two large islands, lying north-east and
south-west of each other, in the South Pacific Ocean, separated by a pas-
sage called Cook's Strait. The northernmost of these islands is called
by the natives Eahcino-mawe, and the southernmost Tm:i Poencrmmoo.
The northern island is four hundred and thirty-six miles in length, and
its medium breadth is probably about sixty miles ; it comprises, therefore,
more than twenty-six thousand square miles. The southerti island is
three hundred and sixty miles in length, and averages about one hundred
in breadth ; comprising thirty-six thousand square miles.

The whole country of New-Zealand lies betv»-een the thirty- fourth
and forty-eighth degrees of south latitude ; and between the longitudinal
degrees of one hundred and sixty-six and one hundred and seventy-nine,
cast from Greenwich. Its mean location, therefore, is latitude 41° 0',
long. 173'^ 0' east. This country, or rather its western coast, was first
discovered in 1642 by Tasman. The discovery was afterward pursued
by M. de Surville, a French navigator ; continued by the celebrated
Cook, and completed by the enterprising Vancouver, who was the pupil
of that great navigator. Not being able to reach one of the arms of
Dusky Bay, near the western pointof the northern island. Cook gave it
ihc name of " Nohody-knows-whaty His pupil succeeded, and changed
the name to " Somchody-hnows-ii'hat.'''' This point, which is called
(Jape West, is about three hundred and fifty leagues south-east of Port
Jackson, Botany Bay.

This country is rapidly rising into importance in proportion as it

366 NEW-ZEALAND. [1830.

becomes more known. It is well watered, fertile, and highly pro-
ductive of ever)' species of vegetation congenial to its varietyof climate,
in an extent of fourteen degrees of latitude. But it is mostly interesting
on accoimt of its extensive population of aborigines ; a peculiar people,
who are separated into tribes or nations, each of which is governed
by its own chief or king. The northern island is divided into eight
principal distri<*ts, which are again subdivided into smaller sections,
over which inferior chiefs hold dominion. It appears, however,
that the arcckcf, or king of a district, is not absolute in power, as the
iiiferior chiefs make frequent wars on each other, without consulting hira.

The native inhabitants of New-Zealand are evidently of the same
original stock with the Otaheilans, the people of the Friendly Islands,
and the other Polynesians. Their language is radically the same as
that of the Otaheilans. They have generally dark tawny complexions,
though I have seen a few of them comparatively fair, and others again
quite black. Their countenances are, with few exceptions, pleasing
and intelligent, without those indications of ferocity which some of
their actions -would lead us to anticipate. The men are tall, mus-
cular, and well made.

The village at the head of Molyneux's Harbour, which is called by
the natives Tavaimoo, contains twenty-eight huts, of miserable accom-
modations. The best among them are shaped like our barns, being
about ten feet high, thirty feet in length, and twelve or fifteen in breadth.
The inside is strongly constructed, and well fastened together by osiers
or supple vines. They are painted, generally, with red sides and
black roofs, using the same kind of material as that with which they
daub their faces. At one end is a small hole, just large enough to
admit one person, stooping low ; this serves as a door ; while another
hole considerably smaller, answers the double purpose of chimney and
^vindow.

Few of their habitations, however, are constructed in this luxurious
manner. The most of them are less than half this size, and are seldom
more than four or five feet in height. Tliey are framed of young trees,
and thatched m ith long coarse grass. Their household furniture con-
sists of a few small baskets or bags, in which they deposite their
fishing-gear, and other trifles. They squat down in the middle of these
huts, around the fire, and often sleep all night in this manner, with-
out any other covering than what they have worn during the day.

Both sexes are clothed alike, having a garment made of the silky
hemp, which is a natural production of the country. These robes are
five feet long, and four broad, and this is their principal manufacture,
'^^'hich is performed by knotting and running the warp on the ground,
and working in the filling by hand. Their w ar mats are made in the
same manner, and are sometimes highly ornamented. I brought home
a number of them, two of which I presented to the proprietor of Peale's
Museum, in Broadway, New- York, together with a New-Zealand axe
made of jasper, and a number of their bows, arrows, spears, war-clubs,
paddles, &c. &c. I made a similar donation to Scudder's American
Museum, vhere they have been much admired ; and also to the Museum
in the city of Albany.

Jan.] THE NATIVES. 367

As it is in all villages as well as cities, society is here divided into
two distinct classes, corresponding to patricians and plebeians ; the
New-Zealanders call the former class rungateedas^ and the latter they
call kookies. Besides these mats or robes, which are fastened round
the body with a highly ornamented girdle, tlie rungateedas wear orna-
ments of shells, feathers, beads, <fec. But the humble kookies generally
wear nothing more than a quantity of the sedge-plant, badly manu-
factured, thrown over the shoulders, and fastened with a string, falling
down on all sides to the knees. WJien sitting down in this dress, they
could hardly be distinguished from the gray rocks or stones, if their
black heads did not project above the garment which covers the body.

The New-Zealanders have some excellent domestic habits, and
evince extraordinary ingenuity in a few arts. Having no metallic
vessels for boiling their food, they contrive to cook their fern-root, and
their potatoes, by means of two hollow stones, in which they first put
the roots, surrounded by a few moist leaves of some well-flavoured
plant, and then applying the hollow sides of the stones to one another,
heat them thoroughly for a due length of time ; at the end of which
the contents are well stewed and palatable food. ' They make wooden
vessels, and carve them with much taste ; cultivate their fields with
great neatness, with nothing but a wooden spade ; construct large and
well-finished canoes ; and prepare fishing tackle and other implements
in a wonderful manner, considering their limited means and want of
tools. Their principal mechanical tool is formed in the shape of an
adze, and is made of the serpent-stone, or jasper. Their chisels and
gouges are generally made of the same material, but sometimes of a
black solid stone similar to the jasper. Their masterpiece of ingenuity
is carving, which they display on the most trivial objects, as well as
in the elegant figure-heads of their canoes, &:c. Their cordage for
fishing-lines, nets, <fec., is not inferior to the finest we have in this
country, and their nets are admirably made. A bit of flint, or a shell,
is their only substitute for a knife, and a shark's tooth, fixed in a piece
of wood, serves for an auger or gimlet. They also fix on a piece of
wood, nicely carved, a row of large shark's teeth, setting them in a
line, and their sharp edges all one way. This answers for a saw,
U'hich ihey use in their carpenter-work, and also for the purpose of
cutting up the bodies of their enemies who are slain in battle.

Their wars are conducted with the utmost ferocity. They have
short spears, which they throw like javcUns, from a distance ; long
ones, which they use as lances ; and a broad, thick, sharp-edged
weapon of stone, called patoo-patoo, with which they strike each other
in close combat, and which sometimes cleaves the scull at a single
blow. I brought home specimens of each of these weapons, which
are now in the museums before mentioned. They devour the bodies
of their enemies ; but not from a physical appetite or relish for human
flesh, as many suppose. Such an appetite or relish was never yet ex-
perienced by any cannibal that ever existed. The horrid rite is per-
formed merely to appease a moral appetite, far more voracious than
that of hunger. It is done to express the extent of their hate, their
vengeance, or rather an insatiable malice that would pursue its victim

368 ' NE\V-ZEAL.\MD. [1830.

beyond the coadBCs of the grave ; for it is an article of their religious
creed that the soul of a man tlius devoured is doomed to eternal fire.

On this subject, I speak from personal observation and experience ;
for 1 have had much to do with cannibals, as will appear hi the sequel.
1 iiave been present when the New-Zealanders have celebrated their
victories on the held of battle, and witnessed their disgusting banquet,
at which their own stomachs revolted with every symptom of loath-
ing, often attended with reaching, and sometimes vomiting. I have
witnessed this lioriible scene several times, with the same irresistible
inference ; otherwise I should not thus hazard so bold a contradiction of
popular opinion.

But the prescribed limits of this volume will not permit me to ex-
tend these remarks farther ; I must therefore refer the reader to the
iiPirratives of other voyages for farther particulars respecting this
curious and interesting people. See Cook's Voyages, Dalrymple's
Historical Collection, the Narrative of Nicholas, Dr. Forster, Marion,
Porkinas, Collins, Savage, and others.

The general face of the country, says Make Brun, so far as it has
hitherto been explored, is undulating ; the hills rising with a varied
ascent from inconsiderable eminences to lofty mountains. A continued
chain of hills runs from the north cape, southward, through the whole
country, gradually swelling into mountains, the highest of which, ac-
cording to Dr. Forster, is Mount Egmont, lying in latitude 39° 16' S., and
is said to be the same in elevation as well as in general appearance
as the Peak of Teneriffe. It is covered with perpetual snow a great
way down, and from calculations and comparisons respecting the snow-
line, he concluded its height to be fourteen thousand seven hundred
and sixty feet. Others arc led by various considerations to assign to
it an elevation of ten thousand feet. Snares Islands, Lord Auckland's
Group, and Macquarrie Island, to the south of New-Zealand, show
the continuation of the same chain of mountains, under water, by
which this country is pervaded.

Jamtary \Oth. — On leaving Molyneux's Harbour, we steered to
the north, with a line breeze from the west, fair weather, and very
smooth water. At 4, P. M., on Sunday, the 10th of January, we were
close in with Banks's Peninsula, where we found a tolerable shelter on
the north side, in the south-west part of Gore's Bay. The eastern
extremity of Banks's Peninsula is in lat. 43° 52' south, long. 173° 14'
east.

Vessels bound to the north, along this coast, after doubling the
peninsula, wishing to have communication with the natives, will find
good anchorage by steering to the north-westward, on ilie north side
of the peninsula, untd they come up with Cook's Cape, in lat. 43° 41'
soutli, long. 172° 51' east. They may then steer a little southerly,
about eighteen miles, to Cook's Harbour, where they will be sheltered
from all winds, excepting from east-north-east to east-south-east, from
which quarter the winds seldom blow home to the bottom of the bay
with any violence. If bound into this harbour, they may keep the
north shore of the peninsula close on board, nntil they reach the
anchorage ; excepting in passing Cook's Cape, off which there is a

Jan.] EASTERN COAST. 369

small reef, about two miles and a half from the main sliore. Wlien
at the head of the bay, the best anchorage will be found on the north
side, between a small island and the mainland, m fifteen fathoms of
water, muddy bottom.

Thei"e are biu few nati,ves residing at this bay, and these few live
in a very miserable manner, subsisting almost entirely on shellfish, as
the f6rn-root is here very scarce, owing probably to the mountains of
rock w'hich line the coast near the peninsula.

January 13^//. — We continued examining the coast to the north
and eastward, frequently seeing natives on sJiore, making signals for
us to land. On Wednesday, the 13th, we were close in with the
southern point of Cook's Strait, at the eastern entrance, called Cape
Campbell. It was in a harbour withm this strait that Vancouver lost a
boat's crew, upon whose bodies, it is generally supposed, that the natives
feasted ; but from the account I received from one of the chiefs on the
north side of the strait, I am led to believe that the flesh was thrown
away, and the bones worn as ornaments by the principal chiefs. Some
of these bones converted to this use were still to be found among the
tribes in this vicinity. There are many fine harbours on the south side
of the strait, with suflicient w'ater to admit ships of any size.

At 4, P. M;, we were close in with Cape Palliser, which is the
north-east point of Cook's Strait, and is in lat. 41^ 38' south, long. 175^
29' east. Olf Flat Point, we received a visit from about fifty natives,
who insisted upon some of us going on shore. Their articles of
traffic w^ere fish and fishing gear, curiosities, and women. The two
first were immediately pm'chased, but the latter did not come to a
good market.

January 15M.— We continued on our passage to the north-east,
carefully examining the south-eastern shores of this island, until Fri-
day, the 15th, when, at 2, P. M., we were in the entrance of Hawk's
Bay, but did not examine the head of it, which is deep, and from ap-
pearance contains many fine harbours. In the south-west arm of this
bay are a few small islands, about one mile ofi-shore from Cape Kid-
napper, or the south point of the bay, with some sunken rocks around
them. Off" the north point of the bay, or Cape Toahowray, there are
many islets and reefs, running along shore to Table Cape ; eight
leagues to the north of which is Taoneroa Bay or Harbour, sheUered
from all winds, excepting from east to east-south-east. At this place
there appeared a number of natives on the beach, making signals for
us to land ; but knowing that they had no articles of trade of any
value, and finding no seals on this part of the coast, we kept on our
course to the north and east, improving a fine breeze from the west,
and fair weather.

January 17th. — After passing many small islets that lie close to the
shore, several of which harboured a few fur-seal, but very wild, from
being continually harassed by the natives, we arrived at East Cape,
on Sunday, the 17th. This is the most eastern point of New-Zealand,
being in lat. 37° 47' south, long. 178° 43' east. There are a few
smiken rocks lying about one mile olT-shore from the extremity of the
cape. After doubhng this cape, bound to the north, the coast suddenly

A a

370 NEW-ZEALAND. [1830.

tends rounJ to the west and south-west, forming what is called the Bay
of Plenty, at the head of which there are several small islands, with
good anchorage within them, where many natives may be found, and
refreshments procured, such as hogs and potatoes, at a very low rate,
fcy paying in barter.

' To the north of this bay is Mercury Bay, fronted by numerous
small islets, behind which there are many spacious harbours, and an
abundance of natives. But it is necessary to be careful at this bay, as
well as at the Bay of Plenty, that many of them do not come on
board, as they often prove treacherous to strangers ; aiid if they do
not attempt to take your vessel, they will steal every thing which they
can lay their hands on. To the north of this is the river Thames,
having many fine harbours near its head, where the natives are quite
numerous, and often hostile. This is a fine place, however, for ships
to obtain refreshments, such as hogs, goats, and vegetables, in abun-
tlance. The island here is quite narrow, and no part of it north of
this is more than thirty miles in breadth.

Not long previous to our arrival, the natives had risen on the mis-
sion, which had been established here but a short time, and it was
with great difliculty that these disinterested labourers in the cause of
humanity escaped with their lives. They succeeded, however, in
reaching the Bay of Islands, where they found protection. Such are
the perils and hardships which these good people voluntarily encounter
and endure, in their godlike attempts to civilize and humanize the
savage islanders of the Pacific Ocean ; and yet their services have been
decried, and even their motives questioned, by those who cannot con-
ceive of such a thing as disinterested benevolence. But New-Zealand
itself is a splendid proof of the utility of missionary labours. There
are many parts of this island which it was once dangerous for a ship
to approach, unless she was well armed, with officers and crew con-
tinually on their guard. But, thanks to the missionaries, and the
blessing of Heaven which has attended their pious and humane exer-
tions, ships may now anchor in safety in many of those very harbours
where the greatest danger was once to be apprehended, and obtain sup-
plies at the most reasonable rate, with many testimonies of kindness
and hospitality.

January 20th. — From this place we steered for the Bay of Islands,
where the English settlement is fixed, with a south-east wind ; and on
Wednesday, the 20th, at 6, P. M., we passed Cape Brett, ihe eastern
point of the bay, which lies in lat. 35° 8', south long. 174° 17' east.
In going into this bay with a southerly wind, the north shore should-
be kept best on board, until you come up with Point Kippy-kippy.
You will then haul close round this point, and steer into the south-east
for a short distance ; when you may anchor abreast of the village, in
from six to four fathoms of water, muddy bottom, about one-third of a
mile from the shore that fronts the town. This bay opens to the
north-east, and, as it name imports, has several islands near it. We
came to anchor at this place at J, A. M., in four fathoms of water,
mud and clay bottom.

January 2lst. — On the opening of the moniing, Thuj-sday, the

Jan.] " BAY OF ISLANDS— VISIT FROM THE KING. ^j,

21st, we found four British whaling-ships, which had touched
here for refreshments ; viz. the George, Captain M'Auly ; the Royal
Sovereign, Capt. King ; the Thetis, Capt. Gray ; and the Eagle, Capt...
Powell. Refreshments may be obtained here in any quantities, oa
very moderate terms. Hogs are sold at the rate of half a dollar a
hundred weight, and potatoes at six cents a bushel ; and they are the
best to keep of any I ever saw.

This place was once inhabited by wild and ferocious cannibals ;.
but through the philanthropic labours of missionaries, the natives here
and in the vicinity have become civilized, friendly, hospitable, and
anxious to do good to others. Indolence and filthiness have given
place to industry and personal cleanliness ; ferocity, to gentleness ^
ignorance, to intelligence ; idolatry, to the pure and undefiled religion,
of the Gospel. Go on, ye messengers of Divine ^lercy ; pursue the
good work, until all the isles of the ocean shall rejoice ; " until the
knowledge of Jehovah covers the earth as the waters cover the sea."
Soon inuy these labours of love be extended to the south island of
New-Zealand, where the people now sit in intellectual darkness, and in.
the shadow of moral death. Heaven will continue to bless your ex-
ertions, and to reward those who contribute to the promotion of so.
good, so great a cause. Mankind will bless you ; but above all, they
•will doubly bless you " who go down to the sea in ships, and do-
business in great waters ;" they who " see the works of the Lord, and
his wonders in the deep ;" for every missionary is emphatically the
mariner's friend.

In the course of the forenoon, the deck of the republican schooner
Antarctic was honoured by the footsteps of royalty ! The areekee
and his august consort — i. e. the king and queen of the northera
district of Eaheino-maice, paid us a friendly and familiar visit. His
majesty, old Kippy-kippy, as soon as he came on board, begged to
know in what he could serve me, at the same time intimating that he
and his people owed an immense debt of gratitude to the whites, for
the civil, moral, intellectual, and spiritual blessings they had received
from them through the instrumentality of the English missionaries^
His majesty was pleased to make a long speech on the occasion, re-
plete with sentiments of gratitude and friendship, and not deficient in
good sense and propriety of expression ; to all of which I replied in
seaman-like brevity, and so the conference terminated, to the mutual
satisfaction of all parties.

). This is one of the most conuuodious harbours that it is possible for
a seaman to desire. The entrance is free and easy of access ; there
being only one hidden danger more than a cable's length from ths-
shore; and this one is about half-way up the passage, in going into the-
harbour, and a little on the south shore. It is about the size of the deck
of a ship, and has nine feet of water over it at low water. With a
strong easterly wind, the sea breaks upon it. I had no opportunity of
examining the sound that leads into this harbour, as we entered at
night, and departed in a thick rain-storm, which is strong presumptive
evidence that the passage is not dangerous.

It was in this bay that the unfortunate French navigator Marioix

Aa2

372 NE W.ZEALAND. [1830.

cinchorcd, and his crew lived on terms of familiarity and apparently
of cordial friendship with the natives. But some offence Avas given
unintentionally to the passionate and capricious savages. Ever eager
tor revenge, they came upon the Europeans unawares, and murdered
Marion in a most brutal manner, with sixteen of his crew, who accom-
panied him on shore. Another party of his crew, consisting of eleven
men, who were cutting wood in a different part of the bay, were attacked
at the same time, and only one of them escaped to the ship, to com-
municate the disastrous intelligence. When the French landed whh
all their force, to seek the remains of their unfortunate countrymen
and brave commander, who fell at the first onset, the natives insultingly
called to them from their fastnesses, and boasted that their chief had
eaten ^Marion's heart !

Tlie English have suffered from similar acts of perfidy, the last of
which was the case of the ship Boyd, in 1809, the crew of which, to the
number of seventy, was massacred by the chief named George.
Since that period, the nature and disposition of these peuple have un-
dergone a most wonderful change for the better, through the unwearied
labours of benevolent and pious missionaries. They are now a
civilized, rational business people, having a very brisk intercourse with
the British settlements of New South Wales, and Van Dieman's
Land. Thev make excellent sailors too, after a short course of train-
ing ; as I can vouch for from experience, having had several of them at
sea with me.

January 23(f. — On Saturday, the 23d, agreeably to previous ar-
rangements, I attended Mrs. Morrell to the missionary establish-
ment, which she was very anxious to visit. We were accompanied
by three of the English captains before mentioned. King, M'Auly, and
Gray ; and were met on the beach by the Rev. Mr. Williams, who
appeared to be very much rejoiced to see us. After a mutual inter-
change of the customary courtesies, he conducted us to his house, and
introduced us to his amiable family — a lovely wife, and two very in-
teresting daughters, just fitted to receive and impart pleasure, in the
rational sphere of moderate fashionable life. I contemplated these
females wiih peculiar interest, and could not conceal my adm.uation of
that disinterested devotedness which could induce them to leave their
country, with so many endearing relationships, and become immured
for life in a solitary spot, on the opposite side of the globe, surrounded
by barbarous savages, and exposed to a thousand privations. 'Twas
the divinity which stirred within them.

In this missionary establishment, which lies about five miles from
the Antarctic's anchorage, on the west side of the bay, the most admi-
rable and perfect system of order prevails v\hich I have ever wit-
nessed ; and this is all owing to a proper and judicious apportionment
of time. They rise, every morning, at daybreak, when the labouring
natives assemble, and the day is opened with prayer. After despatching
a hasty but wholesome breakfast, they repair to the field, each missionary
dressed in his coarse frock and trousers, carrying in his hand a hoe
or spade, or some other agricultnral implement. Here they labour all
the forenoon, v.ith as much industry and perseverance as any of our

Jan.] THE MISSIONARIES. 373

New-England farmers, until the hour of midday, when they all par-
take of an excellent dinner, preceded by prayers, and followed by a
brief return of thanks. After this, they again repair to the field, and
continue to work until four o'clock, when the labours of the day are
finished, the two following hours being appropriated to amusements
and recreation. They assemble at six o'clock, and partake of a light
supper, after which the natives receive lessons in reading, writing,
and arithmetic ; or hear a religious lecture. At nine, P. M., the day
is closed with prayer, when a sweet night's rest recruits their health
and spirits, and fits them for the exercises of the following day.

While the missionaries are thus occupied with the male natives,
their wives and daughters are equally busy with the females, teaching
them to read and write, and also the art of needlework. Thus these
good people devote their whole time in labouring to promote the tem-
poral as well as the eternal welfare of the natives of New-Zealand.
Several handsome specimens of their writing were shown us, together
with some pieces of original composition that evinced no ordinary
degree of genius and talent. I heard some of them read, also, with
great accuracy, both in English and in their own tongue, which the
missionaries have so reduced to a grammatical system, that it has
become a written and printed language. Mrs. Morrell examined sev-
eral specimens of needlework executed by the female natives, which
she pronounced to be equal to any thing of the kind she had ever
seen.

A very pretty village encircles the mission, the buildings of which
are mostly framed and built like the houses in our country villages*
The better sort, however, are built of stone, and handsomely painted.
All of them are whitewashed, and have beautitul gravel walks in front,
with neatly cultured gardens in the rear. Some of the natives have
become ingenious mechanics as well as experienced and skilful
farmers. Thus those plains, which but a few years ago were the scenes
of bloodshed and human sacrifices, have been converted into culti-
vated plantations and fields for innocent amusement ; where the horrid
rites of pagan superstition were once performed, are now erected altars
consecrated to the one true and only living God.

After spending a few hours at this delightful establishment, which
my wife reckons among the pleasantest of her whole life, we took an
affectionate leave of our excellent friends, and proceeded to the beach,
attended by several of the Christian natives, who parted from us with
great reluctance. On shoving off, they exclaimed, as with one voice,
" Farewell ! good Americans ! Gentlemen and lady, God bless you !"
Our honest tars seemed inspired by this ebullition of feehng from the
natives ; and with their muscular arms caused our little boat to skim
like a swallow over the waters of the bay, whose bosom seemed as
placid as our own. Not a soul left the beach till they saw us in
safety on the Antarctic's deck.

AVe reached the vessel just before dark, where I found that my ex-
cellent officer, Mr. Hunt, had as usual been prompt and vigilant in tlie
performance of his duty, and every thing was ready for saiHng. I
was met at the gangway by my royal visiters of the morning, old

374 SAIL FROM NEW-ZEALAND. [1830.

Kippy-kippy and his queen. The latter made my M'ife a present
of five beautiful mats, manufactured by tlie natives, of the silken
hemp, which is a natural production of the country ; and which, if the
plant was once introduced into the United 8tates, would supply the
whole nation with a sufficient quantity of a superior article to any they
have ever manufactured.

This chief is of common stature, stout, muscular, and active ; with
a countenance tliat indicates intelligence, shrewdness, and mental
energy. As an areekee^ he is in the habit of assuming more dignity,
perhaps, than he really feels ; but, tliough " the milk of human kind-
ness" preponderates in his heart, he deserves and commands an un-
limited degree of respect from his people. His wife is smaller and
more delicately proportioned, with a countenance beaming with kind-
ness, tenderness, and benevolence ; I doubt whether it was ever ruffled
by an angry or ill-natured sensation.

From some indefinable cause or other, they both became very much
^attached to me, and expressed a strong desire to accompany me to
America, in order to see the country, acquire some of our useful arts,
and then return to teach the same to their people. This was certainly
a laudable ambition, not unworthy of Peter the Great, czar of all the
Kussias. I was obliged to throw a damper on it, however, by telling
tiiem that it would be a very long time before my duty would permit
rne to sail for America, as I must first visit many other islands and
countries, and load my vessel with their productions. This unex-
pected repulse caused them to look quite dejected for a few minutes ;
after which they requested me to stop at their island on my way home,
and they would hold themselves in readiness to embark with me, and
would fill the Antarctic with hemp, as a remuneration for my trouble.
We finally parted with mutual regret.

January 2oth. — Having completed our " wooding and watering," as
seamen term it, and taken on board a large supply of hogs and pota-
toes, we got under way, on Monday, the 25th, at six, A. M., and put
to sea, with the wind at south-east, attended with heavy falls of rain.
Captains King, Gray, and M'Auly, and his majesty Kippy-kippy ac-
companied mc several miles down the bay ; where, at seven, A. M.,
^hey took their leave, and in a few minutes their little boat was out
of sight astern. I had become quite attached to the three English
gentlemen just named, and wished that I could have longer enjoyed
their society. .They wore no stars, and bore no titles ; but they were
2ioblemen of Heaven's own make. They were simple mariners, like
myself; but real gentlemen in the best sense of the word. It is not
probable, scarcely possible, that we shall ever meet again ; but if this
humble narrative should happen to meet the eye of either, it will be
•seen that some impressions fasten strongly on my heart.

Having been thus far disappointed in procuring a cargo of furs, I
now determined to change the original character of the voyage, and
'Steer for Manilla, to procure a freight for Europe or America. At
eight, A. M., wc were clear of the bay, and steered to the north,
intending to pass between the Feejee Islands and the New-Hebrides,
40 the east of Charlotte's archipelago, and cross the equator in about

Feb.] NEW-HEBRIDES— HOPE ISLAND. 375

longitude 165^ ; then to shape our course for the Philippine Islands.
We continued in this northerly course, with variable winds, and
occasional foul weather, until Monday, the 1st of February', when we
took the south-east trade-winds, in latitude 20^ 30' S., long. 170^ 52' E.

February 2d. — On the following day, at six, P. M., we passed the
island of Erronan, which lies in latitude 19^ 28' S., long. 170^ 24' E.
This island is one of the New-Hebrides, of which group we have not
sufficient knowledge to give any particular description. Most readers
are aware that this cluster of islands was discovered by Quiros, in
1606, who thought them to be part of a great southern continent, to
which he gave the name of Australia del Espiritu Santo. They
were next visited by Bouganville, in 1768, who did no more than dis-
cover that the land was not connected, but composed of islands, to
which he gave the elegant name of the Great Cyclades. After an-
other interval of seven years, the celebrated Captain Cook completed
the discovery, who gave the whole cluster the name of the New-
Hebrides, after a group which lies on the west coast of Scotland. '

February ith. — We continued on our passage to the north, until
Thursday, the 4th of Februar)% when, being in latitude 14^ 30' S.,
long. 170^ 0' E., we took the winds from north-M'est, to north-north-
east, which continued to blow from these quarters for about a fortnight.
In the mean time we crossed the equator in longitude 166^ 30' ; and
on Thursday, the 18th, in latitude 4° 20' N., long. 167° 20" E., we
took the north-east trade-^^^nds from east-north-east. On the same
day we saw several indications of land.*

February \9th. — On the 19th we passed close in with Hope Island,
which is in latitude 5° 17' N., long. 164° 47' E. It is moderately ele-
vated in the centre, and descends into beautiful plains and fertile val-
leys towards the shore, which are literally covered with cocoanut-
trees, plantains, and bananas. We now changed our course to west-
north-wes-t and west-by-north, seeing drift-wood and land-birds every
day ; these were sure indications of our being near land, and bright-
ened my anticipations of making some new discoveries.

* Our situation at this date was about eighty miles from a group of islands which has since been
discovered by Captain Hiram C'ovel of the barque Alliance, of Newport, R. I. ; who states that on
the 7th May, 1831, in latitude 4° 30' N., long. 163^ 40' E., he discovered a group of fourteen island*
not laid down on any chart. They were all inhabited, and the natives spoke the Spanish language.
He called them the Covel Group.

376 NEW DISCOVERIES— WESTERVELT'S GROUP. [1830.

CHAPTER IV.

New Discoveries — Westervelt's Group — An ominous Dream — A perilous Situa-
tion — Extricated by a dexterous nautical Manoeuvre — Brrgh's Group discovered
— Livingston's Island — Arrive at Manilla — Philippine Islands — Luconia —
City and Bay of Manilla — A Hint to the Ladies.

AVe were now sailing in that part of the Pacific Ocean which had
been the least traversed, either by merchantmen or discovery-ships.
Of the few islands which had heretofore been seen m these seas
scarcely any thing was known, except that they appeared on the latest
charts as the " Caroline Islands," with the remark that their situation
and positions were " not well determined." I had long since been
forcibly impressed with the idea that a rich field for tropical discove-
ries lay along this side the equator, between the meridians of 140°
and 160° east longitude ; and it was a firm conviction of this fact
that induced me to stretch so far north, before I bore away for the
Philippine Islands. Tlie correctness of my theory was now about
to be fully and satisfactorily verified.

February 23c?. — The cheering cry, from the mast-head, of " Land>
ho ! — land, ho ! under our starboard bow," brought every soul upon
deck. This was on Tuesday, the 23d of February, at about three,
P. M. We changed our course, and ran for the stranger ; which, at
four, P. M. was seen to be composed of three small low islands, of
nearly equal size, connected by a coral reef, and not laid down on
any chart, or mentioned in any epitome of navigation extant. They
are very low, the most elevated parts being not more than twenty-five
feet above the level of the sea ; but well wooded, being almost en-
tirely covered with cocoanut and bread-fruit trees. On examining
them closelv, I found that neither of them was more than five
miles in circumference, and that biche-de-mer and pearl oysters may
be found both on and within the reef that connects them. As this
was evidently a new discovery, we concluded to name it Westervelt's
group, in honour of Jacob AVestervelt, Esq., an excellent shipwright,
^nd a worthy citizen of the city of New- York. They are situated in
latitude 7° 5' N., long. 153'-' 10' E.

In traversing these seas, I had deemed it necessary to multiply my
" look-outs ;" so that during the whole passage from New-Zealand to
the Philippine Islands, there was a regular mast-head kept day and
night ; besides one man on the extreme end of the jib-boom, one man
on the bowsprit, and one man on each cat-head ; all keeping a sharp
look-out for low land or breakers. My reasons for this extra precau-
tion, were to avoid the dangerous reefs Mhich might be met with in
these partially explored regions, and tne expectation of falling in with
islands which had never before been discovered.

Feb.] ' OMITsOrS BREAM. 377

After carefully examining and naminfj Westervelt's Group, we con-
tinued to steer to the west, a little northerly, with a fine breeze from
north-east, and squally, until eight, P. M., when the weather set in so
thick, that it was judged imprudent to run. The Antarctic was there-
fore hove-to, with the starboard tacks on board. At eleven, P. M.,
the weather cleared off, and we filled away, steering to the westward,
with a ten-knot breeze, keeping the " look-outs" stationed at their re-
spective posts, as mentioned above, hailed every few minutes by the
officer of the deck. We were now going off under the mainsail, fore-
topsail, top-gallant-sail, square-sail, jib, and flying-jib, at the rate of
ten miles an hour.

I had not slept a wink the two preceding nights, and was now nearly
exhausted by fatigue and watchfulness. At midnight, therefore, having
renewed my injunctions of caution to the watch on deck, I went below
to take a short nap ; but feeling a presentiment that it would be very
temporan,'-, I merely threw a mat on the cabin floor, and lay down upon
it, where I soon fell into a disturbed slumber, which was very far from
being refreshing. My bodily senses, it is true, were " steeped in for-
getfulness ;" but my better part was still actively employed in the du-
ties of the deck. Confused and undefinable images of difticuliies and
dangers flitted across my imagination, and in a few minutes I passed
through weeks and months of fruitless toils, strange incidents, and un-
heard-of disasters.

At length the broken fragments of a tragical picture seemed to be
reunited, and the visions of my fancy assumed some orderly arrange-
ment. I was sailing on an unknown coast, by moonlight, running be-
fore a gentle breeze, with every inch of canvass extended. Every thing
wore a sombre and melancholy appearance — the moon even seemed
to look down upon me in pity, and the shore, as it glided past me, ap-
peared to be peopled with spectres. I thought I v/as at the helm, and
all alone. The deck v/as running with blood, and the idea now flashed
across my mind that all my crew had been cut to pieces by pirates.
My situation was lonely and dreary in the extreme, and I longed to
hear the voice of a human being. In the next instant a shadowy form
flitted past me without sound of footsteps, and mounted the cat-head.
After looking out on the deep a few moments, he suddenly turned his
face aft, and I recogtiised the countenance of my deceased friend, the
youthful and amiable Samuel Geery. With his right hand and arm
extended in the direction we were sailing, he suddenly exclaimed, in a
loud voice, " Breakers ahead, sir !"

I was on deck, and had the helm hard down, before the officer of
the watch had time to repeat the startling exclamation. My dream
had become a frightful reality, and the warning voice which dissolved
its vision was from the mast-head.

Mr. Hunt was scarcely an instant behind me in reaching the deck,
from which he leaped on the forecastle, and in a moment more all
hands were aft, gathering in the main-sheet, which was then about five
points off; at the same time the head-yards were kept pointed to the
wind, and the headsail hauled down.

I had not yet seen the breakers myself; but I perceived that every

378 PERILOUS SITUATION. [1830.

one of the crew had gazed in that direction as they came upon deck,
and that terror was strongly depicted on every countenance. I was
also aware that if they were permitted to interchange expressions of
apprehension, a scene of confusion must ensue which would seal the
fate of the Antarctic, and ingulf us all, my wife included, in one com-
mon CTrave. I therefore commanded silence, in as stern a voice as I
knew how to assume, and my lungs seldom fail me in cases of emer-
gency — I threatened with instant death the first man that spoke a word
above his breath abaft the foremast. This had the desired effect ; for
the next instant there was nothing to be heard but the whistling of the
winds and the howling of the lofty combers, about one hundred and
fifty fathoms under our lee.

The vessel was coming-to very fast ; but not being able to get the
main-sheet aft as soon as necessary, on account of a small line getting
into the main-boom tackle-block, which prevented the fall being over-
hauled ; and meeting a very short and cross-head sea in the bows,
which deadened the vessel's headway before she came to the wind,
she got stern-way upon her, and began to fall off.

" Keep the helm hard a-port !" I exclaimed, as, for the first time,
my eye caught a view of the breakers, under our lee. " Brace the
head-yards aback ! Down mainsail ! Up head-sails, with sheets to
windward !" These orders were obeyed as rapidly as they were
given ; and the Antarctic began to fall off very fast, with rapid stem-way
upon her, so that the sea was coming in on both quarters. The head-
yards were braced aback as long as possible, without springing them,
and the headsails were rim down the moment they refused to lie aback
any longer. The instant the squaresails began to fill, the yards were
braced sharp round in a moment ; and before the Antarctic gathered
any headway, the wind was about one point off the larboard quarter.
The mainsail was now instantly set, and the vessel began to gather a httle
headway. As she came-to, the head-yards were kept pointed to the
wind, and all hands, except five or six, were placed at the halliards of
the headsails ; and by the time the vessel had come-to, within eight
points of the wind, the headsails were on her, and she was jumping
from one sea to another, at the rate of eight miles an hour, with the
fore-sheet aft.

Thus, in wearing or veering, a sharp pilot-boat schooner, of seventy-
eight feet keel, in a ten-knot breeze, gained more than twice her length
off-shore : and the man at mast-head said that when the helm was
first put down, the vessel was nearer the breakers than when she had
the wind on the other quarter, and began to crawl off-shore. The
breakers M-ere running about twenty feet high, and there was no land
in sight from the mast-head. No other step which could possibly be
taken would have saved the beautiful Antarctic from shipwreck. She
was saved.

At the very crisis of our fate, my wife came on deck and asked me
if I would have my hat ! Happily for her, she knew not, at that mo-
ment, that we were all tottering on the extreme verge of destruction's
precipice. It was the tender officiousness of an affectionate, devoted
wife ; but at such a crisis inconceivably mal-apropos. My reply was

Feb.] ANOTHER DISCOVERY. 379

*' short, and not sweet :" " Go below instantly, my dear, or I shall be
compelled to have you taken from my presence by force." From
that moment I saw her no more, nor was there a word spoken on
board, among thirty-four men, excepting by myself and the first
officer, until the Antarctic was safe, retreating obliquely from the
frothy and noisy rage of the boisterous enemy. Then we had time
to breathe.

We stood off-shore until half-past three o'clock, when we hove-
to, witji _ the starboa rd tacks on biiard^.. , At half-past four, A. M., we
fille"3"away, and stood in for tEe^reef ; and at half-past five we were close
in with the east end of it, when we discovered land to the westward,
about eighteen miles from the outer breakers. There were also some
small low islands to be seen near the inner edge of the reef, along
which we continued to steer, finding it to extend in a circular direc-
tion, until we finally sailed nearly round it, and began to understand
its figure, nature, and character. This, however, had exhausted our
daylight ; we therefore stood off at a prudent distance, and hove-to for
the night.

On the following morning we resumed our examination of this in-
teresting discovery ; for such it proved to be. It was a group of beau-
tiful islands, surrounded, enclosed, fenced in, completely locked up, and
defended by a wall of coral, from one-third of a mile to three miles in
width, and one hundred and fifty miles in circumference ; the depth of
water on it varying from two to eight feet. In circumnavigating this
singular submarine parapet, we counted more than seventy islands,
of different sizes, situated within its circle, the appearance of which
was truly paradisiacal and delightful. It was realizing, as far as the
eye could judge, all that poets have dreamed of "happy isles," fairy-
land, &c. The whole were clothed with the richest verdure, and
crowned with forests of cocoanut-trees, bread-fruit, oranges, plantain,
banana, <fec. The mountains appeared to be wooded to their very
summits ; and every appearance, exammed by good telescopes from
the mast-head, indicated fertility and plenty. Every island was teem-
ing with inhabitants, whose curiosity was evidently very strongly ex-
cited by the sudden apparition of our vessel, in the morning subse-
quent to the midnight incident which came so near leaving them nothing
to gaze upon but the Antarctic's broken timbers, and our own lifeless
bodies. Canoes of natives were seen darting from one island to an-
other, and the utmost alarm and confusion seemed to reign among
those tawny children of the reef. The water within the reef appeared
like a polished mirror, reflecting every object from its glassy surface.
The natives also appeared in considerable numbers on several little
islands at the inner edge of the reef, and in their canoes outside the
, surf, which in some places broke twenty feet high.

But I could not rest contented with merely viewing these happy
isles at a distance, shut out, as it were, by an envious wall im-
passable as adamant. We therefore commenced a search to find
some place of entrance, and for this purpose continued our examina-
tion of the reef; in doing which we discovered four passages leading
to the placid, tranqiiil, lake-like waters which slept within. These

380 BERGH'S GROUP. [1830

passages were about two hundred fathoms wide, with a depth of water
from rifieen to three fathoms. One of them is on the north-west side,
one on the south-west, one on the south, and one on the east. The An-
tarctic boldly entered at the south-west opening, and courteously paid
her respects to the astonished natives, who in assembled groups were
gazing at her graceful figure and snow-white wings, as she glided along
the mazy passages that separate these lovely islands. The whole
scene was interesting beyond my powers of description : I lament
that I have not talent to do it justice. , The reader must be content
with the plain matter-of-fact observations of a seaman.

On the inner edge of the reef there is a range of small low islands,
from one to five miles apart, covered with coccanut-trees. There are
about forty of this description, which are from half a mile to three or
four miles in circumference. Within this circular range of small
islands there are four others of about thirty miles in circumference,
and moderately elevated. Between the latter and those on the inner
edge of the reef, there are about twenty that are quite small, covered
with cocoanut-trees. A reef runs from one island to another, nearly
through the Avhole group, which renders the navigation very difficult
m penetrating to the centre of the group.

Between all these reefs there is from ten to twenty fathoms of water ;
ihe bottom of which is partly covered with mother-of-pearl oyster-
shells, as many parts of the reef are with Uche-de-mer. From the
lofty appearance of the large islands, I have no doubt but their moun-
tains contain sandal-wood, as we saw some of the paddles of the na-
tives made of that material. From the lava and pumice-stone which
"we saw^ at the wash of the shores, I am led to infer that these islands
were once the summits of volcanic m.ountains. But it must have been
at a very ancient date, as they are now all covered with the most fer-
tile and luxuriant growth of fruit trees and timber that I have ever seen
on any one group in the North Pacific Ocean ; and wherever I landed
I found the soil exceedingly rich. Besides the fruits I could recog-
nise with my glass before I entered the reef, I now discovered lemons,
jack fruit, and a kmd of melon, something like our water-melon, but
much richer in its flavour.

During our short stay here on this oin- first visit, the observations
■we made were necessarily imperfect, and in some respects erroneous ;
but as we had two subsequent and favourable opportunities of examin-
ing these islands, and becoming familiar with their inhabitants, I trust
the reader will find nothing recorded but what I know to be facts.
When I come to treat of the personal appearance, dress, character,
manners, habits, and customs of these natives, as I intend to do in a
subsequent chapter, the reader will be surprised to find himself intro-
duced to a peculiar race of people, differing, in many respects, from
any other I have ever seen or read of.

On the present occasion our stay w^as so short, and the natives so
very shy, though two or three hundred canoes were round the vessel at
one time, that I could not obtain an interview, except with two or three,
"Nvhom I took on board the Antarctic, and showed them such wonders,
and made them such presents, as almost rendered them wild with

Feb.] LIVINGSTON'S ISLAND. * 381

pleasure and amazement. I feel confident that they never saw a white
man, or any vessel much larger than a canoe, before the 23d of Feb-
ruary, 1830, when the Antarctic rose on their astonished view, like
some white-winged monster emerging from the ocean. On showing
them a piece of biche-de-mer, they gave me to understand that they
could collect any quantities of it, and wondered what use I could make
of it. They intimated the same also when I inquired for mother-of-
pearl shells, of which I exhibited some specimens. The impression
was favourable.

By several sets of observations and altitudes, I determined the situa-
tion of the centre of this group to be in latitude 7^ 5' N., long. 152'^
15' E. As it is not laid down on any chart, nor mentioned in any
epitome, I named it Bergh's Group, in honour of my excellent friend-
Edwin Bergh, Esq., of New- York.

February 26tJi. — On Friday, the 26th, at eight o'clock in the evening,
we were safely out of this little labyrinth of coral, and shaping our
course for Manilla, with a fine breeze from north-east, and light squalls
of rain. We continued steering to the north and west until the follow-
ing morning at eight, A. M., when the man at mast-head suddenly ex-
claimed, " Breakers ! three points on the starboard bow !"

KnoM'ing that there was no reef or land laid down on the charts ia
this vicinity, I immediately hauled up for the westernmost part of the
reef. When we had come within about one mile of the breakers, land
was discovered bearing north-north-west, which proved to be an un-
inhabited island at about fifteen miles' distance. The reef, we found,
extended, with one uninterrupted chain of breakers, to the south part
of the island, and was composed entirely of coral, with not more than
ten feet of water on it at any time.

At twelve o'clock, M., we were close in with the west side of
the island, which proved to be about eight miles in length, from north
to south, and half that distance from east to west ; its greatest eleva-
tion being not more than fifty feet above the level of the sea. It was
covered with shrubbery and palm-trees, beneath which grew a long
coarse grass. This island affords water of a good quality, and is
thickly tenanted by land and sea-birds of different species. It is fre-
quented by turtles also ; both the hawk's-bill and the green turtle resort
to its shores ; while the waters are teeming with an exhaustless variety
of fish. Shellfish of the most beautiful species abound here ; and rare
specimens may be collected in great abundance by having divers on
board, to go down outside of the surf Biche-de-mer is tolerablv
abundant on the reefs ; and mother-of-pearl shells and pearl-oysters
are found in the lagoon between the reefs, with many other kinds of
shell of the pearl species.

It may here be proper to state, that there is a reef of about the same
length as the one already mentioned, running off from the north end
of the island, bending to the east-south-east and south, until it meets
the other at the south end of the island ; forming, to the eastward of
the island, one large lagoon. The west side of the island is bold, and
clear of dangers, with good anchorage near the southern point, in

382 PORT OF MANILLA. [igaa.

twelve fathoms of water, over a coral bottom, about one-fourth of a
mile off-shore.

I determined the situation of this island to be in latitude 8° 25' N.^
long. 150° 22' E. The latitude is correct, but the longitude may be
liable to an error of a few miles, on account of the weather being
squally, which prevented our getting sights for the chronometers, or
taking astronomical observations. As this was obviously an entire
new discovery, we gave it the name of Livingston's Island, in honour
of Charles L. Livingston, Esq., of New- York ; a gentleman whose
v.'orth and talents are well known and highly appreciated in his native
.state.

February 21th. — On Saturday, the 27th, at eight, P. M., we bore
up, and left Livingston's Island, steering to the west-north-west, with a
fine breeze from the north-east, attended with light squalls of rain.
We continued standing to the westward, passing to the south of the
island of Guham, frequently seeing sperm-whales, turtles, fish of various
kinds, and many species of oceanic birds.

March 1th. — On the evening of Sunday, the 7th, at nine, P. M.^
Vie arrived at the east entrance of the Strait of Manilla, or St. Barnar-
dino, in latitude 12'' 45' N., long. 124° 31' E. The north-east point
of Samar Island (which should always be the first land made in run-
ning for Manilla Strait) is situated in latitude 12° 38' N., long. 125°
29' E. In doubling this cape, you may come within about two miles
of the land, if you think proper ; but I would always advise mariners,
in running for the strait, to give this land a berth of six or eight miles ;
as there are several small rocky islands lying between Cape Espiritu
Santo and the island of St. Barnardino, which lies in the middle of the
east entrance of Manilla Strait. This island may be passed on either
side, though the preference is to be given to the north, which I would
always recommend to strangers, as this passage is clear of dangers ;
■while the southern passage is intersected with several dangerous shoals,
upon which ships, in light airs, are very liable to be carried by the
strong tides, which run in whirlpools, from three to five miles an hour.

March \Oth. — We pursued our course through the strait, with light
variable winds, and fair weather, until Wednesday, the 10th of March,
when, at eleven, A. M., we came to anchor in Alanilla Roads, in four
fathoms of water, clay bottom, with the lighthouse on the mole, at the
north point of the river Cour, bearing north-east, distant one mile and
a half. Here we found many ships of diflerent nations lying at anchor,
and waiting for cargoes. Among the flags, I recognised those of Spain,
France, Portugal, England, China, and the star-spangled banner of my
native land. At one, P. M., we were honoured by visits from the
health officer of the port and the custom-house officer, and went through
all the little ceremonies and et ceteras incidental to the entrance of a
stranger into a foreign port.

The city of Manilla is the capital of the island of Luconia, and of
all the Spanish possessions in the Philippine Islands. This extensive
gToup of islands, which is supposed to comprise ten hundred, is situ-
ated in the North Pacific Ocean, east of Cochin China, forming the
eastern boundary of the Chinese Sea. These islands are scattered

March.] PHILIPPINE ISLANDS— LUCONIA. 383

over a space of three hundred and fifty leagues in extent from north to
south, and one hundred and tifty from east to west. The principal
islands in the group are Luconia, Mindanao, Samar, Matsbate, Min-
doro, Luban, Panay, Leyte, Bohol, Zebu, Negro's, St. John's, Xolo,
and Abyo.

The population of the whole group is estimated at about two
millions ; of which seventy thousand are Chinese, seven thousand are
Spaniards, one hundred and eighteen thousand are mestizoes, and the
rest natives. Of the latter there are two distinct races — the Papuas, or
negroes, who live principally m the interior, and seem to have been
ihe primitive inhabitants ; and the Malays, who dwell nearer the coasts.

These islands were discovered by Magellan in 1521, and received
their present name in honour of Philip XL, I^ng of Spain. The first
settlements were made by the Spaniards, in 1570. In 1823 (seven
years previous to my present visit), the Creoles and mestizoes made
an attempt to obtain a liberal government ; but the insurrection was
put down by the Spaniards, who employed in this service a force formed
of the converted natives.

The face of the country is mountainous, and there are numerous
volcanoes in the different islands, whose eruptions have repeatedly
caused great ravages. The climate is variable, but the heat is never
excessive. Violent hurricanes and earthquakes often do much mis-
chief. The soil is not less various, but in general is fertile. Rice,
coffee, sugar, cocoa, tobacco, indigo, and a great variety of pulse, with
many sorts of tropical fruits, ebony, sandal-wood, die-woods, &;c., are
among the vegetable productions. Gold, silver, and sulphur are
among the minerals.

Lucon, or Luconia, is the principal of the Philippine Islands ; it
being about four hundred miles in length, from north to south, and from
ninety to one hundred and twenty in breadth ; comprising about sixty-
iive thousand square miles. The country is generally mountainous,
an elevated ridge extending through the whole length. There are
several volcanoes, and earthquakes are frequent and sometimes de-
structive ; those of 1650, 1754, and 1821 are still remembered with
terror. The climate is temperate for the latitude, but is too moist to
be salubrious. The soil is rich aud fertile, producing East and West
India fruits in abundance, with several kinds of spices. Gold is found
among the mountains and in the sands of the rivers ; ambergris is thrown
on the coast ; and civet-cats are common to the country.

The city of Manilla is the Spanish capital, and the seat of the colonial
government of that nation in the East. It lies in latitude 14° 37' N.,
long. 120° 59' E. ; variation per azimuth G° 40' easterly. This city
Avas founded in 1 57 1 , by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. It is a walled city,
beaulilully situated on a kind of peninsula, at the bottom of a bay, and
is well fortified. The city is large, the streets spacious, and the houses
handsome. They generally consist of two stories, with a flat roof, and
balconies in front. The lower story is most commonly of stone, and
the upper one of wood, with windows of mother-of-pearl, or some other
thin transparent material. The streets are well paved, and lighted at
night. The palace in which the governor resides is a very elegant

394 CITY AND BAY OF MANILLA. [ 930.

and extensive building ; the other public edifices are mostly churches
and monasteries.

This is the chief seat of commerce for the Philippine Islands, g.nd
the port is constantly crowded in the summer months with Chinese
junks ; and with American, English, French, Spanish, Dutch, and
Portuguese ships, all the year round. The principal articles of export
are sugar, indigo, hemp, cofiee, tobacco, rice, honey, pearls, pearl and
tortoise-shell, &c. The imports consist principally of wine, brandy,
cutlery, <fcc., together with manufactured articles of silk, cotton, and
woollen. This city was taken byjthe English in 1762, and ransomed
for a million pounds sterling ; but the ransom has never yet been paid,
if I have beeii correctly informed. Its present population is about
sixty thousand souls, of all colours and features.

Ships bound to this port during the north-east monsoons should
endeavour to make the land a little north of the bay ; and during the
south-west monsoons they should lirst make Goat Island. The latter
prevail from the month of jMay to October inclusive ; and the former
for the rest of the year. There is an island of about two miles in
circumference, lying at the entrance of the bay, rather nearer to the
north shore, with sufficient depth of water on either side of it, close to
its shore, for a line-of-battle ship. During the north-east monsoons, I
should always advise ships to pass to the north of this island ; but
during the south-west monsoons, the southern passage will be most
advisable. They are both equally safe and easy, having no concealed
dangers half a mile from either shore.

This island is called the Corregidor, and has a small tort and signal-
staff on its summit, where the Spanish flag is displayed on ships en-
tering the bay. Strangers, in going in at daylight, will do well to keep
the island close on board. They will receive a visit from the board-
ing officer, who is stationed at this island to obtain information and
assist strangers bound to Manilla, with provisions, or a pilot if required.
You will also receive the daily papers by the boarding officer, who
sends a boat to the port of Cavite every day. Ship-masters should be
very cautious not to allow any boats to come alongside, nor permit any
to leave the vessel, until after they have received a visit from the health
officer. By a strict attention to the laws and customs of the port, a
due share of politeness, with a few trifling presents to the first and
second captains of the port, the collector, and heahh officer, you will
ensure great despatch in your business through the custom-house ; but
a contrary deportment will inevitably produce delay.

In entering the bay of Manilla, either in the north or south passage,
you will not have less than ten fathoms of water within a quarter of a
mile from either shore. From the Corregidor to the city the course is
nortli-east-by-east three-quarters-east, eight leagues ; and to the port
of Cavite the course is east-bv-north half-north, seven and a half
leagues ; and from Cavite to Manilla the course is north-north-east,
three leagues, and no dangers between them. The soundings are
regular, from five fathoms at Cavite, increasing gradually until half-
way to Manilla, to ten fiUhoms ; and then decreasing gradually until

xMarch.] MANILLA— THE NATIVES. 395

off the port or ciiy of Manilla, when you will have from five to four
fathoms, within one mile of the walls of the city.

On the north and south sides of the bay of ^lanilla there are several
sand and mud-banks, running from half a mile to a mile off-shore,
upon the most of w^iich the natives have fishing weirs or stakes of
bamboo, with their upper ends about four feet above the water, and
very close together. This bay is large and spacious, being about
twenty leagues in circumference. Its entrance, or the Corregidor, is
in lathude 14^ 27' N., long. 120^ 37' E.

The anchorage at the port of Manilla is good, safe, and commodious
during the fine season of the year, which is during the north-east mon-
soons. In fact, a ship may lay at this port all the year round in per-
fect safety, provided she has good ground-tackling. But if there should
be any doubt respecting this apparatus, I would advise them, during
the season of the hurricanes and the south-west monsoons, to moor
their ships at Cavite, which is properly the seaport of Manilla. Here
ships may lie in perfect safety all the year round, in smooth water.

This bay is bountifully supplied wdth a great variety of excellent
fish ; and the natives employ a great part of their time in the morning
and fore-part of the day in fishing. But at night it is literally covered
with their little canoes, each of which has a light in its bows, which
gives the bay from the anchorage a very beautiful and picturesque ap-
pearance. These exhaustless treasures of the deep have drawn
round the shores of the bay and the environs of the city a very thick
population of the natives, each of whom is contented to live tw'enty-
four hours on a little fish and a handful of rice.

The river of Manilla is not less amusing than the bay. It is on the
east side of the city, from which it separates the suburbs. The mouth
of this river is formed by two moles, about fifty fathoms apart, with a
lighthouse on the eastern point ; and is obstructed by a bar, which
prevents vessels entering that draw more than ten feet of water. It is
quite a pleasure to sail on this river in the canoes or bankers of the
natives, with which, near its mouth, it is literally covered, bringing pro-
duce to market. The small boats that come down the river are gen-
erally too well loaded to afford room for the owner, who wades by its
side or at its stern, pushing it along in the water. In this task they are
also assisted by the women, who are as fearless of the water as a duck.
They wade into any reasonable depth, say up to their knees, and fre-
quently to their hips, always taking care to preserve their dress from
getting wet, which they hold with one hand, while they propel the
canoe with the other.

The natives of both sexes are almost constantly in the water, either
for business or pleasure, which at once purifies the body, and imparts
a pleasing elasticity to the animal spirits. They bathe at all periods of
life from infancy to old age ; at all seasons, and in all weathers. It is sup-
posed by some writers that these constant ablutions and their temperate
diet contribute to the great fruitfulness of the Luconian females, and
their ripeness for early marriage. I have known several of them who
had borne twins at the age of twelve, and some of them become

386 . FEMALE NATIVES. [1830.

mothers at eleven years old. Those that arc married at so early an
age generally cease to bear before they are thirty.

After their accouchement, at which male practitioners never assist,
they recover liealth and strength very rapidly. Miscarriages and acci-
dents are scarcely known among them ; their female accoucheurs, having
all been mothers themselves, know their business practically, which is
a thing impossible to one of our sex. With these female natives of
Luconia there is no art or affectation ; all is nature with them. They
have not been taught to look forward to the important hour which
makes them mothers with apprehensions of danger ; there are no arti-
ficial terrors thrown around the interesting scene. The indispensable
pangs, which are courted rather than shrunk from, are endured with
patience, and an humble reliance on that Power whose wisdom ordained
this mode of fulfilling the divine command to " increase, and multiply,
.and replenish the earth."

Their sufierings, however, are trifling compared with those which
fashion entails upon her wretched vassals in the United States. The
Manillian wives have never had their lovely forms screwed up in a ma-
chine of torture that was never heardof among all the diabolical inven-
tions of the Inquisition ; a machine of whalebone, and steel, and cord, and
pulleys, and levers ! a machine as far more ridiculous and mischievous
than the iron shoe of China as the body and vitals of a human being are
of more value than the foot. They have lived according to nature, and
now enjoy their reward. The apprehension of deformity or malforma-
tion in the infant, a horrid idea which flits across the imagination of
almost every European and American female in the situation alluded
to, never enters the mind of these children of nature, among thousands
of whom a single instance of personal deformity was never knovvT..
These females are all elegantly shaped, and so are the men ; almost
every one being a suitable model for a Venus or an Apollo. In form,
feature, limb, eyes, teeth, and every thing but " complexion, the tinc-
ture of the skin," they are equal to the fairest of my own country-
women ; a majority of whom are braced up so sharp that they can
neither stoop for their glove, should they chance to drop it, nor tie their
shoe-string, should it be dangling on the pavement.

May.] SAIL FROM MANILLA. 387

CHAPTER V.

Sail from Manilla for the Feejee Islands — Discover Skiddy's Shoal — Islands of
Los Matires — Visit Bergh's Group — Discover Skiddy's Group — Visit Young
William's Group — Inter\-iew with the Natives — Intended Treachery defeated —
Visit Monteverdeson's Islands — Description of the Natives — Indications of
Hostilities — An Attempt to board the Antarctic — Continuation of the Voyage
— Discovery of the Massacre Islands — Friendly Disposition of the Natives.

Finding that a freight for Europe or America could not be immedi-
ately obtained, I made arrangements to fit out the Antarctic on a
voyage to the Feejee Islands, there to procure a cargo of liche-de-
mer, tortoise-shell, pearls, pearl-shell, or any other valuables which
might be to the profit of the owners. The necessary arrangements
for this enterprise occupied several weeks, during which period my
wife and myself formed several valuable and highly respectable ac-
quaintances in the city. Among others were Mr. Cannell, an English
merchant, and his amiable family, consisting of wife, children, and
niece, the latter about twenty years of age. This gentleman sustained
an irreproachable character as a merchant and a man, being senior
partner in the house of Cannell & Gellis.

Mrs. Morrell was much caressed by Mrs. Cannell, the niece, and all
the children, and it M'as finally arranged that she would remain with
them at Manilla, during my absence at the Fejee Islands, and not en-
counter the privations and dangers of the voyage. It was not without
reluctance that my wife consented to this arrangement ; but being very
much attached to Mrs. Cannell and her pleasant little family, she at
length became reconciled to a temporary separation from me, and took
up her residence in this abode of virtue, peace, and hospitality, where
I knew that she would receive such protection and delicate attentions
as her sex and state of health required. The Antarctic was not ready
for sea until the 11th of April.

April I2th. — On Monday, the 12th, at 7, A. M., we got under way,
and left the port of Manilla, with the wind from south-west, and fair
weather ; having thirty-three stout able-bodied men on board. On the
following day, at 1, P. M., we passed the Corregidor ; and at 6, the next
morning, we were in the west entrance of the Strait of Manilla, or St.
Barnardino.

April IStk. — We continued on our passage through this strait, with
fair weather and light winds, until Sunday, the 18th of April ; when,
at 11, P. M., we passed the island of St. Barnardino, lying at the east
entrance of the strait. We now stretched to the eastward, between
the eighth and twelfth degrees of north latitude, for more than a fort-
night, with variable winds and weather.

May 6th. — On Thursday, the 6th of May, at 6, A. M., we saw the
island of Faralis, situated in lat. 8° 57' north, long. 145" 27' east.

Bb2

388 LOS MATIRES— BERGH'S GROUP. [1830

This is a small iiiiinhabited island, about three miles in circumference,
and destitute of wood of any considerable growth. It is not much
elevated, being not more than two hundred feet above the level of the
sea. A coral reef runs off its south side, about two miles, on which
the sea breaks. On the following day, at 11, P. M., we saw the
island of Ifelue, in lat. 8° 10' north, long. 146° 57' east. .This island
is about the same size as Faralis, just mentioned, and similar to it in
every respect.

May ^th. — We continued standing to the eastward, with light
winds from north-north-east, attended with rain, thunder, and light-
ning, until Saturday, the 8th of May ; when, at 6, A. INT., we found
ourselves on a very extensive reef of coral, stretching about twenty
miles east and west, and fifteen miles north and south ; with from two
to fifteen fathoms of water upon it. There was no land in sight from
any part of the reef, which is in lat. 7° 35' north, long. 148'^ 14' east.
As this shoal has never been marked on any chart, nor discovered be-
fore, we shall give it the name of Skiddy's Shoal, in honour of Captain
William Skiddy, of New- York.

May IQth. — On Monday, the 10th of May, we were close in with
ihe islands of Los Matires, which we found to be in lat. 7° 44' north,
iong. 149° 54' east. These islands are three in number, all small and
low, with dangerous reefs putting off from them in all directions. They
are thinly populated, and appear to be very poorly wooded. The
largest and most abundant are the cocoanut-trees, but the inhabitants
are badly supplied with fruits. They have some small plantations of
tarrer, and some oijier roots, which they use as a substitute for bread.
The natives are much like those of Bergh's Group, both in personal
appearance and manners ; their canoes are also similar. As there are
no refreshments nor any articles of trade to be had here, I would ad-
vise all merchant-ships to keep clear of this group, on account of the
reef and dangers, and the strong current which sets between them, and
also because the natives are very hostile and treacherous.

May IStk. — On Thursday, the 13th, we passed close in with the
■west side of Bergh's Group, and had a visit from our former acquaint-
ances, "who instantly knew the Antarctic, and appeared very glad to
see us. They brought with them a plenty of bread-fruit and cocoanuts,
and a number of their countrymen who had not ventured on board at
our former visit. They all expressed much anxiety for the vessel to
enter within the reef again, and come to anchor, so that all their
countrymen might have an opportunity of witnessing tlie wonders re-
ported to them by the more venturous few who had been on board.
But the wind and weather being favourable, I could not now comply
with their wishes ; but made them all some presents in return for their
hospitality, and then they reluctantly took their leave, w'hile we con-
tinued on our course to the south and east. - The more 1 saw of these
apparently good-humoured, simple natives, the more strongly I became
interested in their history, character, &;c.

May I'ith. — On the following day we discovered three small low
islands, being each from three to five miles in circumference, and
almost entirely covered with cocoanut and bread-fruit trees. They are

May.] YOUNG WILLIAM'S GROUP. 389

well inhabited with much the same kind of people as the western part
of Bergh's Group ; having also the same description of canoes, war
implements, fishing utensils, and wearing apparel. The islands are
all surrounded and connected by a coral reef. They furnish biche-de^
mer^ pearls, pearl and tortoise-shell, and many curious and beautiful
shells, valuable for their rarity . These islands extend about ten miles
east and west, and about five miles north and south ; being situated in
lat. 6° 4' north, long. 153^ 21' east ; and as we could not find them on
any chart, or see them mentioned in any epitome of navigation, we
concluded that they were new discoveries, and gave them the name of
Skiddy's Group, in honour of that worthy and enterprising navigator.
t May \5th. — We continued steering to the south and east, with the
wind from east-north-east and east, attended with squalls of rain ; and
on Saturday morning, the 15th, at four, A. M., we were close in with
Young William's Group, the centre of which lies in latitude 5^ 12' N.,
long. 153^ 27' E. This group is nearly circular, extending twenty
miles east and west, and eighteen miles north and south ; the whole
surrounded by a coral reef, from one-fourth of a mile to a mile and a
half wide. On the inner edge of this reef there is a chain of low
islands, eleven in number, the principal of which are well inhabited.
There are many small islands, or lumps, that stand on this reef, which
are covered with cocoanut-trees, but are not inhabited.

All of the islands are well supplied with bread-fruit and cocoanut-
trees, plantains, and bananas ; they are also well supplied with wood
and water. Two of the islands are about fifteen miles in circuit, and
about one hundred feet above the level of the sea, in their most elevated
parts. These islands are all of volcanic origin. The lagoon within
the reef contains pearls, pearl-shell, and many other valuable shells of
the pearl kind ; while the reef contains bichc-de-mer, and the hawk's-bill
tortoise.

While I was examining the reef on the west side of the group, I was
met by many of the natives in their canoes, who requested me to land
on a small island about two miles farther south. It being in the early
part of the day, the weather fine, and the vessel under the lee of the
reef, in perfect smooth water, I signified a compliance with their wishes,
and steered the boat to the point proposed, followed by the islanders
in their canoes. On approaching the beach, I saw some of the in-
habitants, who had been gazing at us from behind a clump of trees
near the cabins, make a precipitate retreat into the woods. The natives
in the canoes soon landed, at some distance from our boat ; and while
a part of their number remained on the beach, the rest proceeded
to join the fugitives in the woods. These movements looked sus-
picious ; but I was too well armed and prepared to fear the result of
treachery, having a brace of pistols and a cutlass.

I left my men in the boat, with orders to keep her afloat, and as
nearly abreast of me as possible. I then walked confidently up to the
five natives remaining on the beach, who timidly advanced to meet me,
and I soon perceived that they were unarmed. When we had ap-
proached to within about twelve yards of each other, they all made a
full stop for several minutes. At length one of them, who appeared

390 INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES. [183^^

to be the eldest of the group, stepped on one side to a small tree which
grew near the beach, and broke off a small branch, which he held up
to view. I immediately imitated his example, and reciprocated his
proffer of amity, if for such it was intended. As I advanced to make
the exchange, he at first drew timidly back ; but after being joined by
a female who had been watching our movements from a short distance,
and who was probably his wife, the treaty of amity Mas duly ratified,
and sealed by his making me a present of his tapper, or waist-cloth.
His wife then gave me a little garland of wild flowers she had been
braiding ; and as if this had been a preconcerted signal, two lovely
females, naked as they were born, darted from a neighbouring thicket,
each with a similar token of affection, which they offered with the most
bewitching grace conceivable. Heaven forgive me, if my wicked heart
did violence to any one precept of the decalogue !

These girls were about sixteen or seventeen, with eyes like the ga-
zelle's, teeth like ivory, and the most delicately formed features I have
ever met %vith. In stature they were about five feet, with small hands,
ieet, and head, long black hair, and then those eyes, sparkling like jet
beads swimming in liquid enamel ! They had small plump cheeks,
•with a chin to match, and lips of just the proper thickness for affec-
tion's kiss. Their necks were small, and I believe that I could have
spanned £ither of their naked waists with both my hands. Their hmbs
were beautifully proportioned, and so were their busts. Imagination
must complete the bewitching portraits : I will only add the shade —
their skin was a light copper colour.

I placed the wreaths they gave me onmy own head, which appeared
to please them very much, and to increase their confidence. I ac-
companied them and their friends to the village, where we were met
by about one hundred natives, men, women, and children. Here I re-
ceived several similar tokens from other females ; and in return made
them presents of a few beads and some small pieces of an iron-hoop,
"with which they seemed to be highly delighted. There were several
elderly men and women among them, some of whom I should take to
be ninety or a hundred years of age.

The men were all unarmed, and appeared to be very friendly. They
are straight, active, muscular, and well-made, with an average height
of about five feet nine inches. Most of them wear a tapper round
their loins, which reaches about half-way to the knees, and is made
from the bark of a tree. The married M^omen wear the same modest
covering, highly ornamented in front with feathers and shells ; but the
unmarried women expose all their charms, being, " when unadorned,
adorned the most." They sport in the surf, as if the water was their
natural element.

The cabins or cottages of these islanders consist of a roof made of
bamboos, and thatched with cocoanut-leaves, placed upon four posts.
Under this roof they have a platform, elevated about two feet from the
ground ; being a frame of bamboo, which is covered with mats. This
constitutes a very clean and cool place for sleeping.

After remaining with these people about three-quarters of an hour,
giving them the seeds of useful vegetables, and showing their use, the

>Iay.] TREACHEEY DEFEATED. 39 ^

young women invited me to accompany them to the other side of the
island, where they said they would get me some turtle-shell and pearl-
shell. Before I had advanced far in the forest, however, I saw about
forty Indians at the distance of a quarter of a mile, armed with bows
and arrows ; and evincing a strong disposition to conceal themselves,
by skulking behind trees and brushwood. I was now fully satisfied
that all their pretended friendship was treachery, and immediately,
turned for the beach, telling the chief that I wished to go to my boat
and get some beads and iron for him, and take the boat's crew with me
on the other side of the island.

This proposition seemed to please them very much, and they all
turned to accompany me. I kept the chief alongside of me, with my
right hand on a pistol. As soon as we came whhin hail of the boat, I
found that she was lying close in at the edge of the surf, where my
men were waiting for me with straining eyes and anxious hearts. I
ordered them to back as near the surf as possible, and the moment'
they saw me within a few feet of the water, to fire a musket over my
head. My orders were promptly obeyed, and the terrified natives all-
fell to the earth. In the midst of their confusion, I dived through the
surf, and was soon in the boat, while the oarsmen gave way with all
their strength.

We had scarcely left the beach fifty yards behind us, before it was
covered with about three hundred well armed warriors. I fired a musket
over their heads, which frightened the most of them down upon their
haunches ; and before they could recover a warrior's proper position,
we were out of bow-shot. What object they could have had in view
in this evidently preconcerted act of perfidy I am at a loss to know,
unless they thought that my death or captivity would lead to the taking
of the Antarctic. I am sure that my motives were correct, and Heaven
ever protects those who jeopard their safety for the benefit of their
fellow-creatures. I had always evinced the most friendly disposition
to this people, having supplied them with seeds of various kinds, and
instructed them how to plant and cultivate them.

Having made a sufficient distance from the island, I changed the
course of the boat, and steered towards the south, making a signal for
the schooner to keep close in-shore, abreast of the boat, which could
be done with safety, as the water was bold to the very edge of the reef,,
and the wind was oflf-shore, or from the north-east. We had not ])ro-
ceeded far, however, before we saw about one hundred canoes coming
towards us from all the islands. We were now reduced to this alterna-
tive — either to enter into " the unprolitable contest of seeing which
could do the other the most harm," or show them the Antarctic's stern,
and leave the islands thus partially examined. We adopted the most
humane course.

May I6th. — On Sunday, the 16th, at six, P. M., (nautical time) we
left Young William's Group, and steered to the east, a little southerly,
with a light breeze from north-north-east, and fair weather ; and on the
following morning, at four, A. M., we were close in with the islands
of Monteverdeson's. This group, which is situated in latitude 3° 3a'
' N., long. 155° 58' E., was discovered in the Spanish frigate La Pala.

392 MONTE VEKDE.SON'S GROUP— THE NATIYEb. [1830.

belonging to llie Pliilippine Company, commanded by Don Juan Bap-
liste Monteverde, in her passage from Manilla to Lima, on the 18th of
February, 1806.

This group is nearly circular, and contains about tliirty islands, of
different sizes, the largest being not more than ten miles in circumfer-
ence. They are all surrounded by a coral reef, whicii lias from three to
seven feet of water on it, where the sea breaks very heavily all the year
round. The islands all stand on the inner edge of the coral reef, with
boat-passages between them, from one-fourth of a mile to two miles
in width ; thus following the circle of the reef all round, leaving in the
centre a large lagoon about seven leagues in length, from north-east
to south-west, and about five leagues from north-west to south-east.

The bottom of this lagoon is literally covered with the pearl oyster,
in a depth of water from three to twenty fathoms ; and the surrounding
reef abounds with hiche-de-mcr of a very superior quality. The hawk's-
bill turtle also visits the shores of the islands at certain seasons of the
year, for the purpose of laying their eggs and raising their young.
Upon all these articles the natives set little or no value.

These islands are all very low, the most elevated points of them
not rising more than one hundred feet above the level of the sea. The
surface of each is literally covered with cocoanut-trees, bread-fruit trees,
and palm-trees ; besides many other kinds of wood that is highly useful
to the islanders in the construction of their canoes, houses, and war
implements.

The natives are tall, well made, robust, and active. Their average
stature, I mean that of the men, is six feet two inches, and few of them
weigh less than two hundred and fifty pounds. They are of an olive
colour, with rather flattish noses, black curled hair, of six or eight
inches in length, high cheek-bones, small black eyes, very quick and
penetrating, high prominent foreheads, a beautiful white and regular
set of teeth. Their hands and feet are small, in proportion to the size
of the body and limbs. Their bodies are very round and straight,
v/ith full chests, and square broad shoulders. In short, they are as
fine models for the sculptor or painter as I have ever met with.

The females are about five feet three inches in height, with slen-
der bodies, round and plump as an apple. Their countenance is
pleasing and interesting, and their sparkling black eyes irresistibly
fascinating. They are, in short, in every respect equal, and in some
superior, to the females of Young William's Group.

The dress of both sexes, after marriage, is alike ; consisting of a
simple tapper around the loins, descending half-way to the knees ; that
of the female being ornamented like those of Young William's Group.
The unman'ied go entirely naked, showing their finely-modelled limbs
to the best advantage. Both sexes take to the water at a very early age,
and soon become almost as much habituated to it as the amphibia of
the Gallipagos Islands. Their canoes and war implements are similar
to those of the other group, only much larger.

When these people first came alongside the Antarctic, they gave the
crew cocoanuts and bread-fruit, without asking any thing in return ;
but it was some time before any of them could be prevailed upon to

May.] ATTEMPT TO BOARD THE AXTARCTIC. 393

come on board. The crew in return distributed among them old knives,
beads, iron hoops, and many other little articles. This liberality ex-
cited such sensations in the natives as induced them to strip their
Canoes of their fishing-lines, hooks, nets, cocoanuts, &c., which they
offered as objects of barter; they also gave their large hats, made of
palm-leaves, as well as the tappers from their loins. Both sexes
stripped off the only article which covered their nakedness, and freely
gave it for a few glass beads.

Even yet they appeared not to be contented with the sacrifices they
had made, but gave me to understand that they M'ould return to the
island, and collect pearl-shell, tortoise-shell, and hiche-de-mer, if we
would run the schooner close in with the lee-side of the island. To
this proposition I readily signified my assent, and they with child-like
alacrity paddled swiftly to the shore.

By the time that they had landed, the Antarctic was within about a
mile of the beach, on M'hich were lying fifty canoes of the largest size,
being about thirty-five feet in length, and very buoyant. We con-
tinued to watch their movements with our glasses, and soon had cause
for some startling suspicions. Instead of loading their canoes with
the valuable articles they promised, we saw about five hundred men
bearing to them back-loads of spears and war-clubs. In addition to
this, they had all daubed their faces v.-ith red paint, a certain indication
of hostile intentions among the islanders of these seas.

In a few moments these warlike preparations were completed, and
the canoes afloat and manned with fifteen to twenty men each, coming
rapidly towards the vessel, propelled by paddles at the rate of eight
miles an hour. This formidable flotilla advanced in two divisions, ap-
parently with the intention of boarding us on both sides. Having a
fine breeze from north-north-east, we lay-to, until they had approached
within one-third of a mile of the vessel ; we then filled away, with the
wind abaft of the beam ; and in a few minutes more the Antarctic took
np her feet, and slid over the briny ocean, with her stern to these treach-
erous savages, at the rate of ten miles an hour.

This was the only step we could have taken to avoid slaughtering
these ignorant, misguided people ; who were not yet willing to relin-
quish their rash adventure, but continued to follow the vessel for more
than four miles, when they gave up the chase, and turned towards
the islands. No doubt this system of treachery, which prevails, or
did once prevail, on every inhabited island in the Pacific Ocean, is a
part of their education. They sin without the law, and should be
judged without the laAV. Knowing, as I do, that there are many
callinsr themselves Christians, who could not " cast the first stone" at
these untutored children of nature, I could not find it in my heart to
throw cold iron and lead among them. If they enjoyed the blessing
of missionary teachers, but few years M'ould elapse before the natives
of all these groups of islands would become as exemplary for honesty,
fidelity, and hospitality as those of the Sandwich, Friendly, and So-
ciety Islands. Let our missionary societies look to this : here is a
wide field open for their pious and philanthropic labours ; a field which

394 STRONG CURRENTS— MASSACRE ISL.\NDS. [1830.

is ripe for the harvest, and which would make returns of a thousand-
fold, both in a moral and commercial point of view.

From Monieverdeson's Group we steered to the south-east, with a
iine breeze and cloudy weather. During the night we had the wind
from all points of the compass, accompanied with thunder and light-
ning, squalls of wind, and heavy falls of rain. At the same time v/e
noticed, in the wake of the vessel, besides the usual phosphorescent
appearance of the sea, some ver}' brilliant coruscations, evidently pro-
ceeding from myriads of mollusca,* many of which we caught and
examined, and found them to be different from any that we had ever
seen. The only indication of life which they manifested was a slight
degree of swelling when molested^; they were generally about an
inch in thickness, and from three to five inches in length, enclosed in a
kind of covering or outer skin, of a yellowish colour, and almost trans-
parent.

Mat/ 21 St. — On the morning of Friday, the 21st of May, at four,
A. M., we crossed the equator, in long. 160° 11' E. On discovering,
by astronomical observations and by chronometer, that for the last two
days we had not made the easting which the log gave us by eighty-four
miles, and it being quite calm, we lowered the waist-boat, and tried the
current, which we found setting west-by-north, at the rate of two and
a quarter miles an hour.

On the following day, Saturday, the 22d, being in lat. 2° 4' S., long.
158° 27' E., we found the current setting west-half-north, two and a
half miles an hour. We this day took the wind from east-south-east.
On Sunday, the 23d, we found the current setting to the west-by-
iiorth half-north, three miles and a quarter an hour. On Monday, the
24th, we obtained several sights for the chronometer during the after-
noon, which told us the strength of the current had increased to nearly
four miles an hour.

May 2itli. — To satisfy ourselves of the accuracy of the chronome-
ter, at sunset we lowered one of the waist-boats to try the current,
which we found setting nearly west-by-north, more than three miles
and three-quarters an hour. We now had a seven-knot breeze from
east-south-east ; and finding it to be impossible to pass to the eastward
of Solomon's archipelago, on account of the strength of the currents,
I determined on passing through Bougainville's Strait, after examining
the Ontong Java Group. But on finding ourselves exactly in the
situation assigned to these islands, at nine, P. ]M., we bore up, and
ran to the west, with a fine breeze from east-south-east, and fair
weather.

At half-past eleven, the man on the top-gallant yard saw land and
breakers at the same time. We immediately hauled on a wind to the
south, and at three, A. M., we tacked, and stood in for the land which
had been announced. At six, A. M., we were close in with a group
of small low islands that appeared to be entirely surrounded by a coral
reef, with the exception of two narrow openings, neither of which was

* Mollusca.— An order of animals under the class ver7nes, in the Linnaean system, comprehend-
ing naked simple animals, not included in a shell, but lumisbed with limt>6, as the elof, sWr-tBb>
cuttle-fish, sea-urchin, &c. — Family Encydopcedia.

May.] VISIT FROM THE NATIVES. 395

more than a hundred yards in widtli, nor had a greater depth of water
than three fathoms.

We ran close in with the easternmost of these openings or passages,
on the south side of the group, and at eight, A. M., sent in the boats-,
well armed, to examine the reef. At ten, A. M., the boats returned,
\vith the encouraging information that the reef was literally covered
with bichc-de-mer^ of the Jirst and second quality, several specimens
of which they brought on board with them. The passage which led
to the lagoon within the reef was immediately sounded, and found to
be safe and easy. I therefore determined to enter the lagoon, bring the
Antarctic to anchor, and, if possible, procure a cargo at this place.

This resolution we immediately proceeded to carry into effect ; and
at half-past eleven, A. ]M., were within the reef, and steering for the
windward side of the lagoon, which we reached on Tuesday, the 25th-,
and at three, P. M., came to anchor within one mile of a small island
on the north-east side of the group, in fifteen fathoms of water, over a
coral bottom. Here we were completely sheltered from all points of
the compass, in perfectly smooth water, it being impossible for any
swell to enter the lagoon within the reef from the seaboard. This
anchorage is in lat. 4° 50' 30" S., long. 156° 10' 30" E.

Mai/ 25th.— As soon as the Antarctic was moored and the sails
furled, the natives, nearly as dark-skinned as Africans, and almost
totally naked, began to assemble round her, at a respectful distance, in
their light canoes, evincing the usual symptoms of curiosity, wonder,
and timidity. They came within about a hundred yards of the vessel,
and then lay on their oars, or rather paddles, as if afraid to approach
any nearer. On observing this I displayed a white flag, as a token of
amity on our part, and held up to their view several strings of beads,
and other articles which glittered in the sun. This finally induced
them to venture alongside, when they appeared to be struck with as-
tonishment and awe, on surveying the vessel's hull, spars, riggmg, *fcc.
But nothing, for some time, would induce them to ascend her side.
. I soon distinguished one among their number, whom I set down as a
chief or ruler ; and whom, for the want of a more appropriate name, I
shall call Nero. He was most splendidly, or rather fantastically, orna-
mented with rows of shells and wreaths of flowers, about his ebony
head, neck, and waist ; while his arms and legs were adorned with
rings or bracelets of the richest tortoise-shell. After a long time, I
succeeded in persuading him, with a few of his followers, to venture
on board ; but not without considerable doubt and hesitancy on their
part. But who can accurately depict their astonishment when they
first stepped upon deck! They seemed to be struck dumb and
stupid with amazement ; nor would they advance a step from the
gangway, until I took Nero by the arm, and with due demonstrations
of courtesy led him aft.

t A little reassured by the friendliness of my deportment, and the cor-
diality of his reception, he began, by degrees, to recover from his as-
tonishment, and to become curiously inquisitive. He examined, in
rapid succession, the masts, rigging, sails, deck, hatches, pump, bin-
acle, cables, anchors, whale-boats, and every thing that met his eye ;

ace MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

flying from one object to another, feeling them with both hands, in-
quiring tlie use of ever}^ thing, but never waiting for an answer, imme-
diately laying hold of something else. He at last jumped about the
deck like a madman, alternately laughing and uttering exclamations of
astonishment. When any thing struck him in a peculiar manner, he
would instantly cry out " Rett — sttUcr /" signifying fine ! His sable
attendants also took great interest in the objects around them ; but did
not presume to give their feelings utterance in the presence of their
chiel', who ultimately proved to be the grand chief, or emperor of the
whole group.

1 invited Nero to descend with me into the cabin ; but he declined,
until three of his people should have first tried the hazardous experi-
ment, and gave his orders accordingly, which they obeyed with evi-
dent reluctance, descending the stairs after me with the greatest cau-
tion and timidity. Their feet had scarcely touched the floor, however,
when their fears gave place to surprise and admiration, at the great
number of shining muskets, bright brass-barrelled pistols, and glittering
cutlasses, which decorated almost every part of the cabin. They
covered their dazzled eyes with their hands, and exclaimed Rett —
StiUcr I which was instantly echoed by their companions on deck. I
then showed them a mirror, which at first struck them with terror ;
so that for some minutes they seemed bewildered with astonish-
ment, gazing alternately at each other, and at the image in the glass :
but as soon as they recognised their own ebony features, they embraced
each other, made the most ridiculous grimaces, laughed immoderately,
and shouted with joy.

Nero, on hearing this, could no longer resist his own desire and their
solicitations for him to descend, and with one leap he was in the cabin ;
on looking around which, his exclamations of surprise and pleasure
surpassed all bounds. Indeed, they all looked and acted like wild,
frantic children, although more than one of them bore evident marks
of old age.

On our returning to the deck, we found several more canoes along-
side, with natives equally dark and naked, from the other islands, who
appeared incredulous to the marvellous stories which their friends on
board were telling them ; but they were soon convinced, by ocular
demonstration, that "the half was not told" them. They were then
shown the cook's house, and oifered some bread and meat, but de-
clined tasting it, with an expression of some feeling analogous to
loathing.

The guns next excited the attention of the sable chief, who ex-
pressed great solicitude to know their nature and use ; but it was
neither convenient nor politic at that time to gratify his curiosity on
this subject. I took a little powder, however, and flashed it before
them on the deck, which so terrified them that they fell flat on their
faces. On finding themselves unhurt, they soon recovered their feet
and their composure, and intimated that I must possess the power
of making thunder and lightning, which sometimes teiTified them in
the clouds.

When their curiosity had at length become somewhat gratified, and

May.] THE XATIYES. 397

the ardour of excitement had subsided, I distributed a lew presents to
Nero and his principal attendants, for which they expressed no Uttle
gratitude. Nero scorned to be outdone.in acts of civihty, and there-
fore sent off the canoes immediately ashore, which soon returned,
loaded with cocoanuts and other fruits, which he begged me to accept.
I then, at his request, accompanied him on shore, in his own canoe,
while Mr. Wallace followed me in the Antarctic's boat, well manned
and armed.

On reaching the island, Nero conducted us to his house, as we then
understood it to be, which was only distinguished from the others by
its superior size and capacity. Here we partook of refreshments,
consisting of various sorts of fruits and fish, which we found very
palatable. We were seated on mats, with which the floor was covered,
while the rest of the chiefs, with some very pretty women, almost
entirely naked, with infants in their arms, formed a circle around
us ; but the centre point of attraction was evidently myself, they,
no doubt, considering me as the chief of some mighty tribe of a dis-
tant island.

Having finished our repast, I presented the queen with a pair of scis-
sors, a small knife, and a few beads, which her majesty most gra-
ciously deigned to accept, and appeared to be in an ecstasy of delight,
especially with the scissors, of which I quickly taught her the use.
The knife and the scissors excited universal admiration, which was
quite natural in a group of beings who had never before seen a piece
of iron or steel, and whose best tools were made of a shell or apiece
of stone.

The sensation which these treasures produced having somewhat
subsided, their curiosity was again directed to my goodly person. No
one, however, whh the exception of King Nero himself, ventured to
touch me ; and he performed the feat with as much tremulous caution
as the novice evinces when for the first time he apphes a lighted match
to the priming of a cannon. Having satisfied himself that I was con-
structed of bones and flesh, like his own race, and that the white paint
could not be rubbed ofl* my ebony skin, he turned to his chiefs and
counsellors in great astonishment, and harangued them at some length,
on so wonderful a phenomenon. The whole company listened to him
with less reverence than amazement — remaining motionless as statues,
with straining eyes and gaping mouths.

His majesty then desired me to open my vest and shirt-bosom, that
he might try the same test on the colour of my body ; but the result
only increased his astonishment. Everyone of the men, by turns,
now approached, and satisfied themselves that my skin was neither a
white well-fitted garment, nor its colour the efl'ect of artificial means.
But not one of the females would venture to touch my bosom, and I
was inchned to attribute this shyness more to modesty and feminine
delicacy, than to personal fear.

When their curiosity had been sufficiently satisfied in this particular,
I was presented by the females with several neat rows of shells,
which they took off iheir necks, arms, and legs, and put them on my
own. This act of courtesy was immediately copied by the chiefs, who

398 MASSACRE ISLANDS. * [1830.

took off and presented their feather bonnets or chaplets, which were
very ingeniously put together, and tastefully ornamented with red coral.
From some of the young girls I received several neatly-worked mats,
which they gave me to understand were intended for me to sleep on.

By this time our party had increased to about fotir hundred natives ;
when suddenly, to my great surprise, a song was struck up, in M'hi-ch
they all joined their voices ; old and young — men, women, and chil-
dren. From the manner and gestures of the vocalists, this was evi-
dently addressed to me, and intended as an expression of gratitude for
the presents they had received. Taking this for granted, I endeavoured
by appropriate signs, gestures, bows, and smiles, to return my thanks
for the compliment. Politeness is a universal language, and is in-
stantly comprehended and appreciated by every class of people, from
the courtly Frenchman to the poor despised Hottentot.

At the close of this concert I gave Nero to understand that I wished
to take a view of the island, liud requested the honour of his company,
to which he cheerfully assented, taking with him several of his princi-
pal courtiers, of both sexes. Six men, by their chiefs direction, walked
on before us as guides and pioneers. I was unarmed, aware that the
best security for my personal safety was the implicit confidence I placed
in my conductors, who certainly appeared to be the most harmless, in-
nocent, and inoilensive race of mortals I had ever met with. As we
proceeded through the forest, they tried ever}- artifice to amuse me,
playing, and jumping, and running, and capering about, like so many
*' children, just let loose from school."

Every thing that cam.e under my observation, during this excursion,
wore the appearance of youth and freshness, as if the whole island
was a modern creation. All the trees were quite young, and most of
the fruit trees had been recently planted. In passing through the woods
I saw some plants bearing a profusion of beautiful red blossoms, which
Nero informed me were cultivated expressly for personal ornaments.
Near the centre of the island, my attention M-as arrested by small heaps
of coral, piled up in regular rows, with only footpaths between them,
and enclosed with a kind of fence, formed by pickets or stakes driven
into the earth. This, Nero informed me, was their royal bur}^ing-
ground, and the piles of coral were the tombs. None but chiefs and
warriors of distinction were buried here, or permitted to pass whhia
the fence. The bodies of the common people were thrown into the
sea. A coral tomb — the maw of sharks !

"While I was meditating on the distinctions of worldly rank, which
extend thus down to the very dust,*'* we reached the south-west point
of the island, where I selected a beautiful spot for my intended pur-
pose ; which was to erect a suitable building for curing biche-de-mer ;
for miless this valuable production of the ocean be timely and properly
cvred, it is good for nothing. I selected this spot as being convenient
to our anchorage, and at the same time surrounded by the necessary
fuel, of an excellent quality. I had contemplated this point from the
Antarctic's deck, and my principal object in going on shore was to in-

* Waahingtoa Irvi.jg,

May.] THE NATIVES. 399

spect it more closely, and to claim permission from the chief and his
counsellors to prosecute my design.

As soon as Nero was able to comprehend my intentions and wishes,
he not only readily granted my request, but even promised the assistance
of his people ; and it was agreed that the work should be commenced
on the following morning. This arrangement being completed, and
mutually understood, we returned to the village by a nearer route than
the former ; and at about 7, P. M., I parted from my supposed friends,
who had accompanied me to the boat, where my return was anxiously
waited for. Before we shoved off, hov>'ever, Nero sent us some more
cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, rutt-steller, and several fine fish of a
very good size. We now took our leave, shoved off, and were soon
on board the Antarctic.

Here I found Mr. Johnson, the first officer, — Mr. Hunt having left us
at Manilla, and returned to America, on account of his health, — who
had just returned from examining the north part of the reef, which he
found covered with the biche-de-mer, of a very large size, and in shal-
low water. He also brought with him several pearl-oysters ; but on open-
ing them we found but a few very small pearls, of but little or no value.

We now turned-to and got the boarding-nettings up, set quarter-
Avatches, and retired to rest ; congratulating ourselves and each other
on the valuable discovery of these islands with their inexhaustible rich
productions, and the friendly disposition of the natives, of whose per-
sonal appearance I shall now attempt to give a brief description.

The men, in height, are generally about six feet, and well propor-
tioned, with straight bodies and full chests ; being strong, muscular,
stout, and somewhat portly, but extremely active. Their limbs are well
moulded ; and, like most islanders of the Pacific, their hands and feet
are small in proportion to other parts of the body. Their heads are
handsomely shaped, very different from an African's. The skin of both
sexes is very soft and delicate to the touch, and not quite so dark in
complexion as that of the Madagascar natives. Their hair is mod-
erately crisped, but soft and silky, and much longer than that of an
African. Their eyes are large, black, lively, and brilliant, beaming be-
neath a prominent forehead, which is naturally smooth and well pro-
portioned. Their nose is finely shaped ; and so are the lips, being
moderately thick, and just parted enough to display two rows of ivory^-
sound, even, and beautifully set, in what might easily be mistaken for
red coral from their own reef. The expression of their countenance,
however, when not softened by pleasure, or distorted by mirth, is ex-
tremely savage and ferocious, combined with an indication of firmness
and resolution. They are extravagantly tattooed about the limbs, chest,
shoulders, and face ; often in a most frightful manner, which increases
the expression of ferocity to hideousness.

The women are nearly as large as the men, have the same dark com-
plexion, and are equally well formed ; with straight backs, exuberant
chests, slender waists, and narrow hips. Their limbs are beautifully
proportioned, and the formation of the head is very much like that of
our fourth-blooded mulattoes. They have large black eyes, small round
faces, slender necks, and exquisite teeth, of the purest whiteness.

400 ' MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830^

With respect to dress but little can be said. Some of them wear
tappers, made of the inner bark of the cocoanut-tree, which is tied round
their loins like an apron, and reaches about half-way down to the knees.
But the most of them, of both sexes, go entirely naked, if we except
their ornaments, which consist of gaudy feathers, shells, bones, teeth
of fish, &c., with which they ornament their heads, ears, noses, necks,
arms, wrists, loins, thighs, legs, and ankles. The chiefs are distin-
guished by chaplets of red feathers, which encircle their brows, and
wave gracefully in the breeze. This headdress, when inverted, and
applied to the loins, becomes a very tasteful tapper, or covering for
those parts which nature has shown a desire to conceal, ever since
the first tapper of fig-leaves was sewed in the Garden of Eden.

During my visit on shore, I saw enough of their war implements to
convince me that they Avould be, in case of hostilities, very formidable
enemies. These consist of bows, arrows, spears, war-clubs, and battle-
axes. The bows are about eight feet in length, being made of the
outer part of the cocoanut-tree ; they are light, strong, and very elastic.
The inner bark of the same tree furnishes the bowstrings. The arrows
are made of a small reed that grows in abundance on one of the islands ;
it being very straight, and about the thickness of a lady's ring-linger.
These fatal shafts are about five feet in length, and pointed with hard
wood.

Their spears are made of the same material as their bows, and are
about sixteen feet in length, handsomely tapered off to a point at each
end, elegantly carved in the centre, and finished and polished with so
much care and taste, that they have the appearance of black ebony.
Their war-clubs are also made of the same material ; and are four
feet in length, with a flat blade at one end, five inches wide, and sharp
edges. The other end, which is the handle, is nearly round, and just large
enough to fit the hand. The extremity of this end is a round ball or
knob, corresponding to the pommel of a sword, on which are carved
the head, face, and features of a ferocious negro. Their battle-axes
are about eighteen inches long, with one end just large enough to grasp
conveniently in the hand ; while on the other end they have a carved
head, the size of a cocoanut-shell, representing the ferocious aspect
of a tattooed warrior, painted for the battle.

The canoes of these islanders are constructed of a solid log, about
twenty feet in length, two feet wide, and about two feet in depth. They
are made of a very light buoyant wood, something like the cabbage-
tree. Their paddles are four feet long, and six inches wide at the
blade ; being made of the same kind of wood as the battle-axes, which
resembles our live oak.

Such is a brief description of the people (and their means of an-
noying intruders) among which we had now fallen, and with whose
chief I had entered into a sort of treaty of amity in commerce, with
the utmost good faith on my part. How well this implied contract was
fulfilled on the part of his sable majesty yet remains to be seen.

In concluding this chapter, it may not be improper to give the reader
a clearer idea of an article of commerce which is destined to make a
considerable figure in this narrative, and which has already been fre*

May.] BICHE-DE-MER. 401

quently mentioned — I mean liche-de-mer. The learned and scientific
Doctor Pascalis, after I returned from this my fourth voyage, wrote an
article for the public papers, in which he describes it in the following
words : — **" '

" It is that mollusca from the Indian Seas which is known in com-
merce by the French name louche dc mer (a nice morsel from the sea).
If I am not much mistaken, the celebrated Cu^ier calls it gasteropeda
pulmonifera. It is abundantly gathered in the coasts of the Pacific
Islands, and gathered especially for the Chinese market, where it com-
mands a great price, perhaps as much as their much-talked-of ' edible
birds' nests,' which are probably made up of the gelatinous matter
picked up by a species of swallow from the body of these moUuscse.
They have no shell, no legs, nor any prominent part, except an absorb-
ing and an excretory, opposite organs : but by their elastic rings, like
caterpillars or worms, they creep in shallow waters ; in which, when
low, they can be seen by a kind of swallow, the sharp bill of which,
inserted in the soft animal, draws a gummy and filamentous substance,
which, by diying, can be wrought into the solid walls of their nest.
Hence the name of gasteropeda pulmonifera!'''

This mollusca is oblong, and of different sizes, from three to eighteen
inches in length ; and I have seen a few that were not less than two feet
long. They are nearly round, a little flattish on one side, which lies
next the ground, or bottom of the sea ; and they are from one inch to
eight inches thick. They crawl up into shallow water at particular
seasons of the year, probably for the purpose of gendering, as we often
find them in pairs. It is when the sun has the most power upon the
water, rendering it tepid, that they approach the shore ; and often into
places so shallow, that on the tide's receding they are left dry on the
coral reef, exposed to the heat of the sun. But they do not bring forth
their young in shallow water, as we never see any of their progeny ;
and the full-grown ones are always seen coming in from deep water.
They feed principally on that class of zoophytes which produce the
coral.

The biche-de-mer is generally taken in three or four feet water;
after which they are taken to the shore, where they are split at one
end with a knife, the incision being one inch or more, according to the
size of the mollusca. Through this opening the entrails are forced
out by pressure, and they are much like those of any other small
tenant of the deep. The article is then washed, and afterward boiled
to a certain degree, which must not be too much nor too little. They
are then buried in the groimd for four hours ; then boiled again for a
short time, after which they are dried, either by the fire or the sun.
Those cured by the sun are worth the most ; but where one picul
(133^ lb.) can be cured that way, I can cure thirty picul by the
fire. When once properly cured, they can be kept, in a dry place, for
two or three years, without any risk ; but they should be examined
once iR every few months, say four times a year, to see if any damp-
ness is likely to afiect them. A picul, according to the Chinese
weight, is I33i lb. avoirdupois.

The Chinese, as before stated, consider biche-de-mer a very great

402 MASSACRE ISLANDS. ^^k [1830.

luxury ; believing that it wonderfully strengthens and noufishes the
system, and renews the exhausted vigour of the immoderate volup-
tuary. The first quality commands a high price in Canton, being worth
ninety dollars a picul ; the second quality, seventy-five dollars; the
third, fifty dollars ; the fourth, thirty dollars ; the fifth, twenty dollars ;
the sixth, twelve dollars ; the seventh, eight dollars ; and the eighth
quality only four dollars per picul. Small cargoes, however, will often
bring more in Manilla, Singapore, and Batavia.

As there is an evident afiinity between the two articles, this may
not be an improper place to say something of the " edible birds' nestSy"*
already mentioned more than once in the course of this narrative.
The birds which construct these nests are a species of swallow, re-
sembling, in many respects, the bank or cliff-swallows of our own sea-
coast, which build their nests in the yellow loamy precipices that sur-
round all the New-England bays. The edible-nest builder is small,
between three and four inches long, having a white breast, and a white
spot on each tail-feather. This bird collects a white glutinous sub-
stance from the sun-fish, biche-de-mer^ &;c., which are left by the
receding tides on some parts of the coral-reefs, at the last of the ebb ;
and of this they form their nests, in the clefts and crevices of rocks,
in the most inaccessible places which they can find. So that the na-
tives of these islands of the Pacific Ocean, who make it a'business to
hunt for these nests for the Chinese market, are sometimes obliged to
dive into the water, in order to enter the submarine mouths of caverns
where this sagacious bird has chosen her residence.

These nests are attached close to the rock, which serves for one
side ; or, when built in an angle, two sides of the curious fabric.
When finished, and sufficiently hardened in the sun, the cunning little
architect moves into her habitation, and prepares for the production of
a family. She generally lays three or four eggs, which are about the
size of a robin's egg, but the shell is perfectly white. The nest, when
taken from the rock, has the capacity of a quarter of an orange-peel,
taken from fruit of the largest size. It is generally white, like isin-
glass ; and when collected by the natives of the Sooloo, Celebes,
New-Guinea, or the islands in. the vicinity, they are packed, like tea-
cups, one within the other, in bunches of two or three pounds each.
A single nest v/eighs about two or three ounces. I have often eaten of
the soups which are made of these nests, and have found them pos-
sessing a verv aorreeable aromatic flavour.

May.] ^^ THE NATIVES. 4Q3

CHAPTER VI.

M^issacre Islands — Commence building a House — A Garden planted — Friendship
of Henneen, the Island Chief — Friendly Disposition of the Natives — Precau-
tions against Surprise — Symptoms of Perfidy, Duplicity, and Dissimulation —
Drawn into an Ambuscade — Disarm a Host — Amity and Confidence restored —
Specious but hollow Professions of Good-will — The Alann — The Massacre —
The Battle — The Rescue — Cannibalism — Deplorable Situation of the Survivors
— Sail from the Islands — Arrive at Manilla.

Early in the morning of Wednesday, the 26th of May, we landed
twenty-five men on the point I had selected the previous evening, as
mentioned in the last chapter. Each man having an axe, well sharp-
ened for the purpose, they immediately commenced cutting down trees,
and clearing away the ground directly abreast of the Antarctic, and
close to the edge of the beach. With such ardour and alacrity did
they pursue their labours, that by six o'clock, P. M., the ground was
not only prepared for the site of a building one hundred and fifty feet
in length, fifty feet in -width, and forty feet high, but a considerable part
of the frame of the projected edifice was actually got out in the same
time. This day's work appeared to delight the natives very much ;
but the rapidity with which the trees were felled by the crew electrified
them with astonishment.

In the afternoon I selected some seeds of different kinds, such as I
thought would prove congenial to the climate and soil of these islands^
and went on shore for the purpose of planting them. Attended by one
of the crew, I carefully examined the ground in several places near
the centre of the island, and finally made choice of a t)eautiful spot
which seemed admirably fitted for a garden. Here we went to work
with our spades, and soon turned up a sufficient extent of rich mellow
soil for our purpose, hundreds of the natives all the while looking on
with intense curiosity and amazement. I could not, for some time,
make them fully comprehend the nature and purpose of our operations ;
which they continued to contemplate in doubtful surprise, until they
saw me put the seeds into the ground, when the truth seemed to flash
at once upon their minds.

A tall, slender, well-built man now stepped, up to me and gave me
his hand, with an expression of approbation and gratitude ; giving me
to understand that he now comprehended the object of my hitherto
mysterious proceedings, and that he approved of it very highly. The
countenance of this man was expressive of deep penetration and great
decision of character. His name was Henneen ; and he was, as I
subsequently discovered, the chief of this island : King Nero, the
monarch of the whole group, merely being here on a visit from the
largest island in his dominions, lying about seven miles to the south,
on which he resided.

Cc 2

404 MASSACRE ISLANDS. "^Sl [1830.

Encouraged by the approbation of Henneen and his people, I now
vent on, and planted potatoes, yams, pumpkins, oranges, apples, pears,
peaches, plums, onions, cabbages, beets, carrots, parsnips, artichokes,
beans, pease, watermelons, and muskmelons. While we were plant-
ing the seeds of these vegetables and fruits, I told Henneen that there
must be a fence around them, to prevent their being trampled upon and
destroyed. He immediately set his men to work, and before night
the little garden was all planted and fenced. I then told Nero and
Henneen that in the course of a few moons they might expect to find
a variety of edible productions in this young plantation ; and in two
or three years a number of trees bearing wholesome and delicious
fruits. Henneen explamed this to the natives, and was answered by
a loud and general shout of approbation and joy.

This was followed by a speech from King Nero, in which his
majesty assured his chiefs and subjects that I was taking all this
trouble and pams for their general good, from generous and disinter-
ested motives. At the conclusion of this address the whole welkm
rang with their joyous shouts. When this clamour had subsided, I
made Nero and Henneen understand that this garden was intended for
them ; and that in due time it would furnish seeds enough for all his
people, on every island. By this mark of respect from me they ap-
peared to feel themselves highly honoured, and promised to see that
the garden was cultured with great care.

These arrangements and operations being completed, we proceeded
in a body towards the village, taking a route round the south end of
the island, where I could not help pausing a while to contemplate the
ceaseless but unavailing warfare which ocean wages against the
coral bulwarks that protect these lovely islands. I gazed upon the
foaming breakers with mingled sensations of astonishment and awe,
and silently adored that Being who gave to the smallest insects the
power to perform such wonderful miracles ! It is true that the
mighty ocean may tear away mountains from their foundations of ada-
mant ; it may ingulf cities in irretrievable ruin ; dash fleets of shipping
to atoms, and destroy all the feeble operations of man, the proud self-
styled lord of tlie creation ; and yet here it exerts its force in vain
against the works of tiny animals, scarcely perceptible to the naked
eye. Neptune sees his domains thus continually intruded upon in a
thousand, nay a million different directions, and storms, and frets, and
fumes, and wages eternal war against the intruders. But how impo-
tent his wrath ! Tlie little labourers still go on, unmmdful of his frothy
rage — new mountains of coral still rise from the oozy abyss, and
imagination may gaze into futurity, until it sees the vast Pacific con-
verted into a continent, resting, as it were, on a base of coral.

At sundown we returned to the vessel, with all our labourers of the
point ; and after partaking of a hearty supper, with that best of all
sauces, a good appetite, we set our watches, and all turned-in upon
deck, beneath the awning, which extended the whole length of the
vessel. The nights here are very beautiful, aijd more favourable to
health than those of any other country that I have ever visited, on
account of there being no dews falling here. The cause of tliis total

May.] PRECAUTIONS AGAINST SURPRISE. 405

absence of nocturnal humidity I cannot pretend to assign. We could
here sleep quietly, without any apprehensions of colds, agues, or rheu-
matisms, being gently fanned and refreshed by the passing breath of
the south-east trade-winds ; which, not being interrupted by any high
land or island, blew serenely and steadily upon us.

The usual precautions against surprise were carefully adopted. The
sentinels M'ere placed as on the preceding night ; there being one man
on each bow, one in each waist, and one on each quarter, with loaded
muskets by them, and the boarding-pikes were always at hand in the
racks. The arm-chest was amply supplied with loaded muskets, pis-
tols, and cutlasses ; and every man was provided with a cartridge-box,
containing twenty-four rounds of cartridges. The battle-lanterns
were always at hand ; the large guns and swivels were kept loaded
with grape and canister-shot, and the matches ready lighted, day
and night.

Although we often trusted our lives in the hands of the natives, we
were always careful to leave nothing undone or unattended to which
could contribute, m the smallest degree, to the safety of the vessel.
The cross-trees were screened in such a manner as to be completely
arrow-proof; so that should the natives ever obtain command of the
deck, one man in each top would soon clear it with the swivel, wliich
was always stationed there, loaded with canisters of musket-balls and
buck-shot, with lighted matches m the covered match-tubs, and pro-
tected from the rain. There was also an arm-chest in each top, with
two blunderbusses in each, which were always loaded with No. 1
buck-shot. The top-chests were well supplied with ammunition, there
being sufficient for five hundred rounds, completely sheltered from the
weather. Thus, we felt perfectly at ease w^th respect to the safety of
the vessel ; to which every man had become so much attached, that he
would readily sacrifice his life in defence of " the saucy Antarctic," as
they fondly called her.

May 27th. — On the following day, Thursday, the 27th, w^e took an
early breakfast, and at five, A. M., landed twenty-eight men, with the
armorer and his forge. The crew" immediately addressed themselves
to their several duties, while the armorer proceeded to set up his forge,
which was soon ready for use.

In the mean time I committed the command of the vessel to Mr.
Wallace, the trading officer, and accompanied Henneen, with a few of
his party, to a small unmhabited island, about a quarter of a mile from
that on which we were building our house. This little island, which
is not more than half a mile in circuit, is thickly covered with heavy
timber and fruit trees, among M'hich I planted in various places pota-
toes, yams, beans, pease, apples, pears, and peaches ; each kind in
the soil which I considered most congenial to its nature and conducive
to its growth.

At about ten o'clock, A. M., I returned to the island on which my
men were employed, and found every one in good spirits, and hard at
Avork ; assisted by about one hundred natives, who were mostly busy
in making thatch of cocoanut leaves, to cover the roof of the building-
after it should be raised. The forge now being ready for operation^

406 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

the novelty of the scene attracted the attention of all the natives, who
gazed with amazement on every part of the apparatus. But when
the bellows began to play, and the coals to burn, and the sparks of fire
to fly from the heated iron, the men and women, as one body, fled in
terror from the spot. Henneen was the first man whom we could per-
suade to return. We soon convinced him of the unreasonableness of
his fears ; and to prove to him the advantages of the forge, the armorer
made him a small harpoon, in about five minutes. His joy at this
present was excessive ; and another, a little larger, was immediately
made for the king, while the other chiefs were presented with some
iish-hooks. In short, their friendship seemed to increase towards us
■in the same proportion as successive novelties arrested their attention.

The natives had now once more collected around the forge, having
dismissed their groundless apprehensions of danger. Among them
was an elderly man, belonging to one of the other islands, who laid
hold of a piece of flat iron bar, about eighteen inches long, and made
ofl" with it without any ceremony. Nero immediately sent men after
the delinquent, from whom they took the pilfered article by force.
Nothing daunted, however, the old man returned to the forge, and
commenced raving against those who pursued him ; and on seeing a
favourable opportunity, stole another piece, of about the same size
^nd shape. Four of his companions, also, who had accompanied
him back, seized on some of the armorer's tools, with which they
made off. The things were soon missed, however, and the thieves
were pursued by the islanders, at the instance of Henneen, and shortly
overtaken. Their party, by this time, had become quite strong, and a
serious conflict ensued, in which several of both parties were severely
wounded.

On seeing this, I thought it my duty to interfere, and endeavour to
settle the difficulty, and restore peace between the two parties of natives,
before their blood should become so much chafed as to render such a
result impossible. The armorer left his forge at the same moment
to witjiess the contest ; and though absent but a very few minutes,
he found it on his return stripped of almost every thing portable. All
the iron and nearly all the tools had been stolen, and he knew not
by whom. He immediately came and acquainted me with the theft,
just as I had succeeded, with extreme difficulty, and some hazard, in
restoring peace and order among the contending natives.

Under these circumstances, I immediately applied to Nero and
Henneen, made them acquainted with the villanous transaction, and
desired that the stolen articles should be instantly restored. To this
Nero readily assented ; at the same time flying into a violent rage
with his subjects, for the manner in which they had treated me. The
greater part of the stolen articles were soon recovered ; and Nero
})ointed to two canoes which were under sail at some distance,
bound to one of the leeward islands, which he said contained the re-
mainder of them, and that they should be sent back on the following
<lay. He accordingly despatched another canoe in chase of the cul-
prits, and finally succeeded in restoring the remainder cf the things
.according to promise.

May.] SAVAGE DISSIMTJLATIOX. 407

It being how about twelve o'clock, I invited Nero, Henneen, and the
rest of the principal chiefs to accompany me on board, and take din-
ner with me. This invitation was accepted by all but Henneen, who
made some trifling excuse. I attached no importance to this circum-
stance, however, and we went on board, leaving two men to guard
the forge and take care of the tools. On reaching the vessel's side,
Nero and his chiefs were handed on board, and entertained with our
usual cordiahty. They now went to all parts of the vessel, without
betraying any apprehensions of danger ; admiring each object that
came in their way, and evincing a great desire to become acquainted
with the causes and principles of every thing.

The deck guns, being large bodies of iron, still excited a great deal
of curiosity in them ; and they expressed much anxiety to know why
they were hollow. I could not well satisfy them on this subject with-
out discharging one of the pieces ; and this I concluded would alarm
them to such a degree as to cause great trouble in regaining their
confidence. It was therefore thought best to let them remain in igno-
rance on this particular point. A practical illustration of the mystery
was much nearer at hand than either party anticipated.

After enjoying a hearty dinner, with no lack of courtesy and hos-
pitality on my part, we all returned to the scene of industry on the
island. The moment we landed, I was informed that another theft had
been committed during my absence, of two axes and a hatchet ; and
tliat there was incontrovertible testimony that this act of perfidy had
been countenanced, if not encouraged, by Heni\een himself. I there-
fore applied to Nero ; but the moment I met him, I plainly perceived
that there was an understanding between himself and the treacherous
chief. I nevertheless very civilly made my complaint, and requested •

the stolen articles to be immediately returned. Instead of any attempt ^
at apology or conciliation, the negro king flew into a violent pas-
sion, and gave me to understand that he should take no farther trouble
about the matter. I then turned to Henneen, from whom I received
the same kind of answer.

I was now convinced that if we suffered this act of perfidy to pass
unnoticed, all our prospects of a successful voyage at these islands
would be annihilated at once ; I therefore determined to recover the
things if possible ; " peaceably, if I could — forcibly, if I must." In
pursuance of this resolution, we returned on board the Antarctic, armed
six of the crew, besides myself, with muskets, pistols, and cutlasses ;
and then pulled in to the beach, immediately abreast of the village ;
with the full determination, either to recover the stolen articles, or to
secure the person of Henneen, and detain him on board the Antarctic,
as a hostage or security for their forthcoming.

We had scarcely landed, when we were met on the beach by four
of the natives, unarmed, who oflered to conduct me to the village
M'here Henneen resided, which was beautifully situated in the centre
of a grove of cocoanut and nut-stiller trees, of a majestic size. I
accepted the offer, and we followed our guides to the village. But
what was our astonishment, on emerging from the thicket, through a
narrow path, into the skirts of the village, to behold, directly in front

408 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [183D

of us, two hundred savage Avarriors, completely armed with bows and
war- clubs, and ready for battle ! their faces were painted red, and their
lieads fantastically ornamented with red feathers and cocoanut leaves.
Every eye was bent upon our little band with an expression of demo-
niac ferocity ; mingled, as I thought, with a sense of shame and con-
trition for their perfidious treachery. When my indignant eye encoun-
tered theirs, a consciousness of doing wrong was betrayed in spite of
themselves, as I instantly read in the downcast looks of their savage
countenances. They felt that they were in the diabolical act of ren-
dering evil for good ; of seeking the life of one who had already
freely risked it to do them service.

On seeing this formidable band of painted warriors, with their bows
strung, and their left feet thrown forward, as if in the very act of
discharging their arrows, I well knew that they were determined on
war. On turning to speak to my little heroic band of chosen follow-
ers, I foimd that nearly an equal number of these black devils, who
had been concealed on each side of our path, had now risen, and
closed behind us. Thus we were completely surrounded by nearly
four hundred ferocious cannibals, who were determined on our destruc-
tion, and only waiting for the word of command to riddle us with their
arrows, and then to carve us, not as " a dish fit for the gods," but as
carcasses for hounds.

Self-possession and presence of mind sustained us in this trying
hour. Not a cheek w^as blanched, not a nerve quivered, among our
little band of heroes, whose coolness and courage kept pace with the
increasing magnitude of the emergency. I turned and addressed a few
words to them, adapted to the occasion, assuring them that our safety
depended solely upon coolness and decision ; that nothing but a des-
perate step could save us from destraction ; and exhorted them to put
their trust in Heaven, and promptly obey every order I should give.

I now thre\v my musket on the ground, took a pistol in my right
hand, and my cutlass in the other, and ordered two of my men to
follow my example. I then gave such orders as I deemed requisite
to the other four, and proceeded in my plan of operation^. In the
mean lime Henneen was making a speech to his band of warriors ;
but I was in search of»higher game, diligently surveying the whole
circle of savages, till my eyes at length rested on Nero, their king, who
had stationed himself on the opposite side of the ring. Henneen had
now concluded his speech, and the savages were fixing then* arrows
to their bowstrings, ready for a general discharge.

Witli a cool, calm audacity, which rendered tliese savages motion-
less with amazement, I advanced to their astonished monarch, with
my pistol presented to his royal breast ; while my two trusty follow-
ers, with equal deliberate firmness, took their stations oil each side of
his majesty, holding two glittering cutlasses suspended over his head,
^vith strict orders to sever it from his body, the moment an arrow was
discharged from a bow at either of our party. In adopting this plan,
I hoped that during the confusion which would necessarily follow the
death of the king, some of our party might probably effect their escape.
This delicate service was intrusted to two men who I knew would

ISfay.] SAVAGE DUPLICITY. 409

never flinch from a duty, however disagreeable. Their names were
George Strong and Henry Wiley ; the former of Albany, in the state
of New- York ; and the latter of Charlestown, state of Massachusetts,
being my second officer.

Struck with horror at the perilous situation of their monarch, the
savages suddenly paused in the very act of notching their arrows,
which now dropped from the slackened bowstring, and lay at their
feet on the ground. The moment we perceived the happy effect of
this hasty measure, and while confusion reigned in the ranks of these
bloodthirsty villains, we walked around the circle with drawn cutlasses,
and compelled every one of them to lay down their bows, war-clubs, &c.,
which were quickly collected into one heap, by my other brave lads :
viz. John Cowan, Joseph Hicks, George Cartwright, and Thomas
Bernard. This being done, his terrified majesty, whose nerves had
been so shocked by this hasty transaction that he could hardly stand,
was escorted to the beach, and given in charge to Mr. Wallace, who had
that moment landed from the schooner, in another boat ; while live of
the principal chiefs were marched to our boat, when we all put off,
and were soon on the bright deck of the Antarctic, where w^e returned
thanks to Heaven for our miraculous deliverance.

As the friendship of Nero and his chiefs was all important to the
success of oin' enterprise, I adopted every means, during the remainder
of the day, to conciliate their favour, and flattered myself that I had
completely succeeded. Every thing seemed now to go on very pleas-
antly, both on shore among our working party, and on board among
our mvoluntary visiters. I treated them to every thing they appeared
to covet, whether useful, ornamental, or edible, and amused them
with the drum and fife, together with ah's on a large French organ ;
all of which appeared to afford them great pleasure ; the organ in
particular seemed to excite a great degree of curiosity m these untu-
tored children of fallen human nature.

At seven, P. M., all hands came on board, in good spirits ; and Mr.
Wallace informed me that one hundred and fifty of the natives had been
diUgently employed in making thatch, ever since the king left the beach.
After supper, the music was got up, and our sailors gave the chiefs a
specimen of dancing as practised in New- York ; which compliment
was reciprocated by the chiefs, in some very grotesque dances of their
own. Peals of laughter resounded on all sides, as these islanders
thought our mode of "handling the feet" was full as ridiculous as
theirs appeared to us. In this they probably judged correctly. The
evening passed with great hilarity and apparent good-will, by every
individual on board. The chiefs laughed, shouted, and played antics.
Our men did the same. At ten, P. M., the regular watch being set,
we all retired to rest ; I having, with my own hands, made a bed for
the chiefs, of some old sails.

May 28th. — The morning of Friday, the eventful 28th of May,
opened on these lovely islands with smiles of cloudless beauty. At
five, A. M., twenty-one men went on shore, under the command of Mr.
Wallace and Mr. Wiley, to pursue their labours on the edilicTe we
were raising. At nine, A. M., after giving the king and chiefs as good

410 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

and as bountiful a breakfast as the store-rooms of the well-supplied
Antarctic could furnish, they were loaded with presents, and set on
shore, to all appearance highly delighted with their visit and the friendly
reception they had met. Indeed they seemed to take unusual pains
to convince us of their gratitude and good-will. Among other modes
of expressing them, Nero and the chiefs voluntarily promised that
their people should assist ours in making and thatching the house,
which was now partly raised, and nearly ready for covering. The
sincerity of these professions and promises remains to be determined
by those who have patience to pursue the course of this plain narra-
tive of facts.

After having thus paid to these chiefs every mark of respect
which is due to rank, and which I thought sound policy dictated, I
took a few men, and commenced landing such articles as would be
first wanted in curing the biche-de-mer. The work now appeared
to be going on very pleasantly ; the house being nearly ready for
thatching, and two hundred and fifty of the natives assisting our work-
men, for which we had agreed to pay them liberally. We had already
landed several boat-loads of the necessary articles, and were preparing
10 despatch another, when at about half-past eleven, A. M. my ears
were startled by a sound that sent the life-blood curdling to my heart.
It was the warhoop of the savages on shore.

I doubt whether the bursting of a volcano almost beneath my feet,
the unexpected shock of an earthquake, or a bolt from heaven strik-
ing the deck of the Antarctic, could have startled and astounded me
like that infernal yell. Were I to live till doomsday, it would still
tingle in my ears by day, and visit my dreams by night. I too well
knew the deadly import of that fatal shout ; and I was not there to
protect my men.

The larboard battery of the vessel bore directly on the village ;
and without contemplating the distance, I snatched a lighted match,
and discharged one of the cannon. The shot, as I might have antici-
pated, fell spent and harmless, without doing any execution. But the
sudden and unexpected report alarmed my men, who were scattered
about in the woods, pursuing their various occupations. Taking it as
a signal of hostilities on the part of the natives, every man started
for the beach, in front of the schooner, where they had carelessly
left their arms, under the protection of two sentinels. On approach-
ing the spot, they were met by about three hundred natives, who had
just butchered their two shipmates the sentinels ; and were waiting
their own approach, with bows ready bent. The moment our ill-fated
men emerged from the thicket, a shower of arrows was poured into
their unshielded defenceless bodies. Only three of them fell from
this volley, however, although scarcely any escaped one or more
wounds. --5 I" I

A well-manned whale-boat, despatched on the instant of the alarm,
was flying to the rescue of my brave fellows on shore, as fast as ten
sturdy oarsmen could pull her over water, which her keel scarcely
seemed to touch.. She was commanded by Mr. Johnson, whose voice
i could hear continually exclaiming, "Give way, men! Give way!

May.] THE MASSACRE. 411

For the love of God, give way, and rescue your shipmates !" But
they required not this extra inducement to exertion. Their very souls
seemed to be concentred in their vigorous muscular arms, and I
thought I could see the intensity of their anxiety in the agony of their
countenances, which of course were turned to the Antarctic. As I
gazed on their lessening boat, I could scarcely hold my glass, for the
straining of my own muscles and sinews, which instinctively kept
timely motion with their oars, as if I could lend them strength, and
assist in propelling the boat. If the reader has ever experienced a
similar sensation, arising from nervous sympathy, he will understand
me. If not, I am unable to describe it.

In the mean while, my gallant ill-fated lads on shore were selling
their lives at as dear a rate as possible. After receiving the volley of
arrows before-mentioned, when emerging from the thicket, the gallant
Wallace (whose bravery, virtues, and melancholy fate declare his
descent more unequivocally than his name) rallied his men, and well
supported by his friend the chivalric Wiley, led them forward to
play the desperate game of life or death, Avith such fearful odds
against them. Perceiving that indiscriminate slaughter was the de-
termined object of the savages, from whom no quarter could be ex-
pected, this undaunted Briton, with three arrows then in his body,
thus exclaimed to his men, as they were plucking the pointed shafts
from their own flesh. His words as I was informed by a survivor,
were in substance these : — " My fine fellows, you see our fate ! Let
ws die like men ! — keep close together ! draw your cutlasses, and follow
me ! If safety can be found at all, we must seek it at close quarters."
With these words he rushed forward to the charge, dealing death at
every blow, in which he was closely followed and closely imitated by
Wiley and the rest. The savages shrank back with astonishment, as
these brave fellows literally mowed down their ranks, opening a spa-
cious path for themselves through the thickest of their host. For
every white man that fell, half a dozen black cannibals bit the dust ;
until the few survivors of our party were covered with wounds, and
faint with exertion and the loss of blood.

But what avails human bravery under such desperate circumstances !
Fifty arrows were now sticking in the body of the undaunted Wallace,
protruding like the quills of a porcupine. Some of the wounds were
deep. His strength was exhausted — nature could do no more, and he
fell on the beach, by the side of his friend Wiley, who had received his
death-wound in protecting him from the stroke of a war-club. Even
in the agonies of death, Wallace still encouraged his men. " Fight on,"
he exclaimed, as the blood was streaming from his body and limbs —
*' fight on, my brave fellows ! — for the honour of seamen — sell your
lives dearly — they are worth a great price ! Never let it be said that
England or America produced a coward — die like men !"

These were his last words — I mean in substance. He then, by a
sudden eflfort, took his dying friend's hand ; and these two brave offi-
cers, who had cut down more than five times their number of savages,
with their blood-died cutlasses, now turned their faces towards the

412 MASSACRE ISLANDS. 1830.

Antarctic, and gave up the ghost. The last surviror who left the
bloody scene saw them in this position ; firm friends in life — undi-
vided in death. The survivors continued to fight with desperation,
dealing around destruction on every side, until fourteen of their party,
out of twenty-one, were killed or missing.

By this time, the whale-boat which I had despatched with Mr. John-
son and ten men, all well armed, had reached the edge of the shore.
The moment she came within musket-shot of the savages, the men
opened upon them a brisk and well-directed fire, which caused the
sable demons to fall back a«hort distance, and enabled our little band of
lieroes, now reduced to seven in number, to make a timely and suc-
cessful retreat to the boat. Four of the seven were badly wounded,
and the other three nearly overcome with heat and excessive fatigue.

The savages had now recovered from the panic produced by our
handful of bullets ; and seeing that the remainder of their prey was
likely to escape their bloody fangs, they made a desperate and deter-
mined rush upon our boat ; but before they could reach her, she was
in deep water. A part of them then saluted her with a shower of aiTOws,
while the main body flew to their canoes, and started in pursuit ; every
movemeni indicating a fixed determination to destroy the fugitives, or
perish in the attempt.

As the boat was very much lumbered up, with seventeen men on
board, four of whom were badly wounded, it will naturally be expected
that her progress was slow ; consequently the canoes gained upon her
very fast. As soon as the savages had approached within rausket-shot
of our boat, a well-directed fire was opened upon them from the latter ;
but the falling of their companions, instead of deterring these hell-
hounds from their purpose, only incited them to rush on with the
greater desperation. But the moment was now approaching when
their intense curiosity respecting those big hollow pieces of iron on the
Antarctic's deck was to be fully gratified.

The pursuers gained so fast upon our boat, that I began to fear her
destruction would be inevitable. We brought the broadside of the
schooner to bear on the canoes, by means of springs on our cables ;
the guns were all loaded with grape and canister, and the moment
they came within distance, I waved to the officer of the boat to pull a
little towards the stern of the vessel, which brought all the canoes,
about twenty in number, clear from the range of the boat. At this
critical moment, the Antarctic opened her flaming battery, and des-
patched the m.essengers of death among the flotilla of canoes, two of
"which were literally dashed into fragments.

The unexpected report of the cannon, together with the unlooked-for
effect, struck terror into the hearts of the astonished enemy ; and it
appeared evident that these natives had never before witnessed such
serious eflects from the combustion of gunpowder. The Antarctic now
kept up a steady fire for a few moments, which caused the canoes, or
such as still remained of them, to make a precipitate retreat to the
island. By this measure, and no other would have been available,
"we saved the boat, the schooner, and nineteen valuable lives.

Our boat soon came alongside, and the wounded were helped on

May.] CANNIBALISM. 413

board, one of whom was my brother-in-law, a lad of nearly sixteen
years. The other three were so completely exhausted, from heat and
fatigue, and so sickened by having seen their unfortunate shipmates
butchered and mangled by those ferocious cannibals, that they were
totally unfit for duty. The mercury in the thermometer was now up to
107° in the draught of the companion-way. Our situation was far
from being enviable.

But still there was no time to be lost. The savages were rendered
doubly desperate by the failure of their diabolical scheme of treachery,
and the loss of so many of their party. Their strength was moment-
arily increasing by a general turn-out from all the other islands, and
preparations were quickly completed for attacking the Antarctic with an
overwhelming force, while I had only eleven efficient men to defend the
vessel. Under such circumstances we thought it best to slip the cable
and make sail, which was soon effected. In the next moment, every
man was at his quarters, ready to receive the enemy, who was now
advancing with an immense flotilla of canoes.

In this critical emergency, Heaven interposed in our favour. A gentle
breeze sprang up from the eastward, and we soon perceived, to our
great joy, that the canoes were dropping astern, and that the savages
had relinquished the chase. Fortunate indeed was it for us that they
did so, for the wind shortly died away to a dead calm ; and at the same
time (a little after 2 P. M.) every man on board, with the single ex-
ception of myself, was seized with a violent vomiting, which continued
all that afternoon, and the greater part of the night, during which
period I was several times apprehensive for their lives. This sick-
ness was not the effect of fear ; but was no doubt produced by the
horrors they had just witnessed ; the heart-rending spectacle of their
slaughtered shipmates lying mangled on the beach, while some of their
ruthless butchers were cutting and carving them with their own cut-
lasses ! Others again were churning their spears into the writhing
bodies of those who yet had life !

It was very fortunate that the natives did not come upon us at this
time ; if they had, they must inevitably have taken the vessel. Had
such been the case, however, their success would have been their
destruction ; for one of the wounded, a man on whom I could depend,
w^as stationed at the magazine with a lighted match, to be applied to
the powder if the natives got command of the deck.

Having now a few moments for reflection, I took a telescope and
directed my attentiooi to the island. Fires were kindled on the beach,
in every direction, among the dead bodies of my unfortunate crew,
from which those hell-hounds were cutting the flesh, and roasting it in
the fire ; and then, with savage ferocity, tearing it to pieces with their
teeth, while from the half-cooked fragment the fresh blood was rimning
down their ebony chins !

*' Torn limb from limb, he spreads the horrid feast,
And fierce devours it, like a mountain beast ;
He sucks the marrow, and the blood he drains.
Nor entrails, fleah, nor solid bone remains." — Dry den-

Soon after, they began t»o drag the bodies of their own fallen comrades

414 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

to the edge of the beach, and then buried them hi the bosom of the
lagoon. When they had finished this necessary task, they proceeded
to gather up their plundeV, and divide the remains of our slaughtered
friends among them ; after which, each party of warriors embarked
in their respective canoes, and started for the several islands to which
they belonged, and which the last reached about dusk. All this I dis-
tinctly beheld, and my soul sickened.

When I looked again, fires were being kindled on the different
islands, until they were ranged along all the beaches that fronted the
schooner. Around these fires the natives appeared to be very busy,
for the greater part of the night. This was, no doubt, for the prose-
cution of their horrid orgies ; but fearful that treachery lurked beneath
their operations, that these fires might be intended to deceive us, and
that they intended to attack the Antarctic under cover of the darkness,
every man was kept at his quarters during the whole of that melan-
choly night. Eighty muskets were loaded with buckshot, and laid
upon the trunk. The guns and swivels were all double-shotted ; the
matches kept lighted in their places, and one man was stationed in each
top, 'to keep a sharp look-out for canoes ; their matches were also
lighted, and the top-swivels in complete readiness. During the night
we cruised about among the shoals and reefs of the lagoon, anxiously
waiting the tardy approach of daylight, which at last was hailed with
joy, and heartfelt thankfulness.

May 29th. — At the dawn of day we found ourselves within about
two miles of the passage that led from the lagoon into the open ocean ;
and at 7, A. M., we were once more clear of the " Massacre Islands" as
we concluded to name the group, one of them being baptized in the blood
of our brethren. We put to sea with a fine breeze from east-south-east,
and fair weather.

The following are the names of the omhappy victims of savage
treachery and cannibal ferocity: viz. John A. Wallace, trading officer,
belonging to Newcastle, E ngland ; Henry Wiley, second officer, of
Charlestown. Massachusetts ; Joseph Hicks, armorer, of England ;
George Cartwright, carpenter, of England ; Thomas Parker, carpenter,
of England : Seamen, — George Webb, of London ; James Butler, of
Liverpool ; Samuel Wood, of England ; Thomas Barnard, of Bristol,
England ; George Strong, of Albany, New- York ; Alexander Mooney,
of New- York ; Stephen de la Cruz, a native of Manilla. The
names of the wounded seamen are, John Keeler, of New- York ;
William Vanduzer, of New- York ; Leonard Shaw, of Philadelphia,
and John Harris, of England.

The booty which this tragical affair threw into the possession of the
natives consisted of the following valuable articles : viz. one whale-
boat, thirty casks and barrels, a number of muskets, pistols, cutlasses,
boarding-pikes, axes, hatchets, cartridge-boxes, shovels, crowbars,
carpenter's tools, blacksmith's forge and tools, and a quantity of cord-
age and blocks, which had been taken on shore, to assist in raising the
frame of the house ; besides a chain cable of ninety fathoms, inch
iron, and anchor of one thousand pounds, which lay, and probably
still lies, in more than fifteen fathoms of water,

June.] ARRIVE AT MANILLA. 4^5

June 2d. — On Saturday, the 29th, at 3, P. M., (nautical time,) we
took our departure from the Massacre Islands, bearing south-by-
west, distant three leagues, and steered to the north and west, with
moderate breezes from south-east to east, and fair weather. On
Wednesday, the 2d day of June, at 7, P. M., we crossed the equator,
in the long, of 152° 27' east. From that time, we had Hght variable
winds, attended with heavy falls of rain, until Tuesday, the 8th, when
we took the north-east trade-winds, in lat. 6° 15' north, long. 150°
10' east.

We continued steering to the north and west, with moderate north-
east trades and fine weather, until 2, A. M., on Monday, the 21st,
when we saw the island of St. Barnardino, lying at the eastern en-
trance of the strait of the same name, bearing west-by-south, distant
one league. This was the first and only land we had seen since leaving
the Massacre Isknds ; constantly keeping two men at the mast-head,
day and night, one on the end of the bowsprit, and one on the jib-boom.
At 3, A. ]M., we were within the strait of St. Barnardino, or the strait
of Manilla.

June 26th. — We continued on our passage, through this strait, with
light variable winds, and calms, attended with rain-squalls, until
Saturday morning, the 26th of June ; when we arrived at Manilla, and
anchored, at 7, A. M., one mile ofi-shore, in four fathoms of water,
muddy bottom, with the flag-staff on the citadel bearing east-by-north.
At 8, A. M., we received the health-ofiicer's usual visit, and at the
same time my wife came on board, in the boat of the captain of the
port, attended by our worthy friend Mr. Cannell. My feelings on this
occasion can be better conceived than described. Independent of my
recent misfortunes, other circumstances, with which it is inexpedient
and unnecessary to acquaint the reader, rendered this meeting, ex-
tremely afiecting.

AVe now embarked for the shore with cheerful and exhilarated spirits ;
but what was my surprise, on landing at the custom-wharf, to find
the collectors carriage waiting to convey us to our residence. This
worthy man, together with our mutual friend the captain of the port,
after expressing the greatest sympathy for our afilictions, handed my
wife into the carriage, where we all took our seats, and in a few mo-
ments were safely set down at the residence of my excellent friend
Cannell. After remaining about half an hour with us, the collector
and captain rose to take their leave, first giving me and my wife a very
polite and pressing invitation to call and spend a few days with them.
Their parting salutation was a warm pressure of the hand, with the
words — " God bless you both."

I now made known my deplorable situation and circumstances to
jMr. Cannell, and wished him to advance me sufficient funds to pur-
chase provisions for a crew of ninety men, for ten or twelve months.
This noble-hearted gentleman, ever ready to assist his fellow-creatures
in distress, instantly agreed to let me have what money he had, which
he feared would not be sufficient for my purpose, as he had just pur-
chased and paid for a large cargo of pearl-shell and a quantity of tor-
toise-shell. But all he had was at my service, for which he would only

416 MANILLA— PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING. [1830.

charp:c six per cent, per annum. I agreed to liis kiinl ofTer, and immedi-
ately commenced making arrangements for returning to the Massacre
Islands.

Before I had proceeded far in these preparations, however, I wrote
to General Requorfort, who was then commander-in-chief of Luconia,
and all its dependencies, for permission to ship fifty natives of Manilla,
to complete my crew. His excellency answered my letter very
promptly and politely, stating that he had taken my misfortmies into
consideration; and that although it was contrary to the laws of the
port to take more than one-third of the crew natives of Manilla, yet
he would allow me to ship one or two hundred Manilla-men, if I
wished for that number.

CHAPTER Vn.

Sail from Manilla for the Massacre Islands — The Bay and Town of Taal — Port
and Town of St. Joseph'^ — Ladrone Islands — Arrive at Bergh's Group —
Friendship of the Natives — Their Canoes, Fishing Implements, &c. — Beauty
of the Women — Strength and Agility of the Men — Theological Notions —
Marriages, Deaths, Wars, &c. — Description of their Weapons, Houses, and Vil-
lages — Domestic Arrangements — Fertility and Capabilities of the Soil — Im-
portance of this Discovery — Equipments necessary for a Voyage to these
Islands — Depart for the Massacre Islands.

In discovering the Massacre Islands, and examining the reefs and
shoals which surround them, I had gained the knowledge of one im-
portant fact ; which, though dearly purchased, was not the less valuable
and interesting 10 the votaries of commerce and science. I had as-
certained, beyond the possibility of a doubt, that these islands could
furnish the valuable productions of which I was in search, in greater
quantities, and of far superior quality, than could be obtained at the
Feejee Islands (our original destination), or at any other group which
I had ever yet visited. I therefore considered it a duty which I owed
to my employers, to my country, and to myself, to return immediately
to the Massacre Islands, with adequate means to ensure success ; and
to redeem, in some measure at least, the losses and disasters which
had hitherto attended this ill-fated enterprise.

But I was also actuated by another motive, with which pecuniary
considerations had not the most distant connexion ; and weighed with
which they were " lighter than the dust in the balance." The impres-
sion was deeply engraven on my mind that one or more of the unfor-
tunate fourteen might have possibly escaped the general massacre,
and be now enduring " the horrors of a living death," as captives to
tho'se ferocious blood-hounds. This idea still haunted me day and
night. It was constantly seated like an incubus upon my breast,
and I felt that nothing could remove it but a speedy return to the scene
of blood. This impression originated in the following facts :

The work of destruction had but just commenced, when three of our
working-party had beon seen to fly from the beach towards the woods,

July.] LEAVE MANILLA. ' 417

closely pursued by the demons of blood, who overtook and butchered
two upon the spot. The third, it was believed, had outstripped his
pursuers, and entered the woods with his axe in his hand. The bare
possibility of this man being still living, was sufficient inducement for
me to persevere in the design I had formed. For this purpose I had
exerted every nerve in making the necessary preparations ; having, by
permission of the Luconian government, shipped the requisite number
of hands, and obtained an adequate supply of provisions, water, and
naval stores ; so that in twenty-two days from the time I arrived at
Manilla, the Antarctic was again ready for sea.

July \Sth. — On the evening of Sunday, the 18th of July, several
merchants and ship-masters, of different nations, called on me, and
endeavoured to dissuade me from my hazardous enterprise. The chief
weight of their arguments, however, was based on the fact of my hav-
ing so great a proportion of Manilla-men in my crew ; there being sixty-
six of the former, and only nineteen Americans. They predicted that
I would not live to return again to Manilla, but be cut off by my new
recruits, who Avould forcibly take possession of the Antarctic, and
murder all the Americans who refused to take part in the conspiracy.
To enforce their arguments, they repeated a great number of legendary
tales of fine ships that had been cut off by these men, in some instances
even when there were only two or three of them on board.

In reply, I gratefully thanked them for their friendly counsel ; and
assured thejn, that while in the conscientious discharge of my duty,
death had no terrors for me, come in what shape he would ; that the
same gracious Being who had preserved me from the cannibals would
protect me from assassins of every description ; and that, at all events,
I could never again enjoy life, until my mind was relieved from its
present horrid suspense. Should one of my crew be still living, a
captive to those ruthless, remorseless cannibals, what must have been
his agonizing distraction of mind to see the Antarctic depart for ever
from his view ; what must be his hopeless despondency during her
lengthened absence ; what would be his ecstasy of delight to see her
return. As respected the danger, I heeded it not ; for I could say with
Caesar —

" Of all the wonders that I yet have heard,
It seems to me most strange that men should fear ;
Seeing that death, a necessary end,
Will come when it will come."

My wife was prepared to accompany me, as neither of us was will-
ing to endure the anxieties and apprehensions of another separation,
in a distant region of the globe, not less than fifteen thousand miles
from her native home. We therefore took an affectionate leave of all
our friends at Manilla, and soon found ourselves on board the fast-sailing
Antarctic, whose white canvass was unfurled and her anchor apeak.

July I9th. — On Monday the 19th, at eleven, P. M., (nautical time),
we got under way, with a light breeze from the east-north-east, attended
with fair weather; at three, A. M., we passed the Corregidor, and
steered for the Strait of Manilla, or St. Barnardino, which we entered
at one, P. M.

418 BAY AND TOWN OF TAAL. [1830.

I was now very much amused with the curiosity, vivacity, and ac-
tivity of my wife, who was almost constantly on deck, with her drawing
apparatus, sketchmg ditlcrent views of the islands as we passed them ;
and the hundreds of native-built boats, bound to and from Manilla, some
of which were striking specimens of clumsy naval architecture, and
still worse rigging. Her spirits, so long depressed, v.-ere now buoyant
as the air, and she flitted about the vessel like some ethereal form from
a higher sphere. I found my own mental temperament much improved
by the influence of her society ; her sweetly smiling vivacity and ex-
uberance of spirits operated on my own feelings like a charm — I was
insensibly awakened from my despondency, hope was rekindled in my
bosom, and, as far as respected myself, I could contemplate my recent
misfortimes whhout a sigh of regret. The safety of the Antarctic was
identified with that of one who was dearer to me than life. What
stronger security could exist for the care and vigilance of her com-
mander ! Were I a merchant and a ship-owner, so far from opposing
the wishes of an afTectionate wife who would accompany her husband
on a long and hazardous voyage, I would recommend such a measure
to every ship-master in my employ, and consider it of more value to my
interest than the policy of ensurance.

July 20th. — At 2, P. M., we passed along the mouth or entrance of
the bay of Taal, which presents some delightful scenery, and afTords
many magniticent views, to such as have leisure to sail about in quest
of them. It is about twelve miles in circumference, of. a shape ap-
proaching the circular, and its winding shores, on both sides, are
screened with grand ramparts of rocks and red clay-banks. At the
head of the bay, in the centre, between these bulwarks of nature, the
country descends to the shore \\\\\i a gentle slope, forming a beautiful
vale, which falls with a gradual and easy descent to the sandy beach
which lines that section of the circle. All around this delightful sheet
of water the land is covered with trees, even on the rocks of its
■western shores, wherever they can obtain footing or shelter ; but on
the eastern side of the bay they grow with great luxuriance.

On the gentle declivity just mentioned, at the head of the bay, stands
the celebrated town of Taal. The tasteful eye which selected the site
could not have anywhere rested on a more delicious spot. Hills
crowned with wood, and beautiful valleys covered with fruitful planta-
tions, greet the eye on every side ; wliile in frojit of this little town
0])ens the wide-spreading T)ay, with its rocky and clayey banks bend-
ing round it, reflecting all the variety of light and shade which the sun
in its circling course throws profusely upon it. In this secluded re-
treat dwells a society of monks, safely remote from the noise and
vices of the turbulent world, dwelling in peaceful security, and fearing
no harm or molestation from the native Tagalians, over whom their
influence is unbounded. This town is resorted to by a few fashion-
ables in the summer season, as a watering-place ; and a more pleasant
one could scarcely be selected.

July 23d. — We continued on our passage through the strait, with
variable winds, and fair weather, until Friday, the 23d, when, at 7,
F. M., we came to anchor on the east side of the island of Sackathi

Aug.] ST. JOSEPH'S— ISLAND OF GUAM. 419

neo, in the port of St. Joseph, in four fathoms of water, clay bottom ;
and on the following day we commenced building a whale-boat, thirty-
five feet in length and eight feet wide, which we completed on Thurs-
day, tlie 29th.

This basin is one of the safest places for a ship to lie in to refit
that there is in the known world. The entrance, which is formed by
two bluff points, is not more than one cable*s length wide, with five
fathoms of water in the passage ; but after passing within these two
points, a scene suddenly opens upon the view, with a very imposing
efl'ect. The stranger finds himself in a beautiful smooth basin, the
shape of which is an exact circle, of one mile in diameter, containing
from three to seven fathoms of water in every part of it ; and in many
places the water is bold close to the beach. A small river and several
brooks run into this harbour from the adjacent mountains, and supply
the town with excellent water. '

The town itself is built on a winding peninsula, the extremity of
which forms the south point of the bay ; and on the most elevated
part of the latter is a fort, mounting six eighte en-pounders, which com-
pletely commands the entrance of the harbour. Next to this fortress is
a church, and a little farther up the peninsula stands the town of St.
Joseph, fronting the harbour, and containing about two hundred houses,
and eight hundred inhabitants, who are governed by the laws of Ma-
nilla. The houses are all built of bamboos, and thatched whh a kind
of strong coarse grass that is common to the country. This town or
village is almost entirely shaded with cocoanut and other fruit trees,
■which render the walks delightfully pleasant, and gives to the whole
prospect a beautiful and picturesque appearance. The surrounding
country- is admirably diversified with hills, valleys, forests, and grazing
plains. Tobacco and hemp are cultivated here in considerable quan-
tities, and shipped to the Manilla market. Refreshments of all kinds
may be had at this port at the shortest notice, and on liberal terms.
The inhabitants of both sexes, like those of Manilla, are much ad-
dicted to the barbarous amusement of cock-fighting, and make heavy
bets on the result of the battle. '

Juli/ 29th. — On Thursday, the 29th, at 11, A. M., we got under way,
and steered towards the eastern entrance of the strait, with a fine
breeze from east-south-east, and fair weather. On Saturday, the 31st,
we once more found ourselves clear of the Philippines ; and at 7, A.
M., we took our departure from Cape Espiritu Santo, bearing west-
south-west, distant ten leagues, with a fine breeze from north-by-east,
and fair weather. We continued making the best of our way to the
eastward, taking advantage of the winds, which frequently hauled from
north-north-east to east, and back again. This gave us a very good
chance for making easting, which we did not fail to improve.

August 12/A.— On Thursday, the 12th of August, at 6, A. M., we
were close in with the west side of the island of Guam, which is the
principal of a group called the Ladrone Islands, situated in the North
Pacific Ocean, between the eleventh and twenty-eighth degrees of
north latitude, and about 140^ east longhude. Their number has been

Dd2

420 LADRONE ISLANDS. [1830.

variously stated, froiii eleven to sixteen ; and the names of the princi-
pal ones are Guam, Saypan, Tinian, and Rota.

These islands were discovered in the year 1521, by Magellan, who
called them Islas de Ladrones (Islands of Thieves), because the^ na-
tives stole every thing made of iron which they could lay their hands
on. Towards the close of the seventeenth century, however, they re-
ceived the name of Mariana or Marianne Islands^ from the Queen of
Spain, Mary Ann, of Austria, mother of Charles II., at whose expense
missionaries were sent over thither, to propagate the Christian faith.
At that period these islands were very populous ; but Spanish oppres-
sion has since almost annihilated the whole race ; so that, with tlie ex-
ception of Guam, every island of the group has become desolate.

Few nations have had it in their power to do so much good to the
cause of philanthropy and religion as Spain ; but from a mistaken
policy in the exercise of this power, none have done so much mischief.
The propagation of any religious creed by force of arms is the climax
of despotism ; so monstrous in itself, and so utterly at variance with
the benign precepts of the Gospel, that did not the melancholy facts
stare us full in the face from the page of history, we could scarcely
believe that it was ever attempted by a Christian nation. It is tliis
• mistaken policy of Spain and Portugal that has enslaved or depopu-
lated some of the fairest portions of the globe. The Ladrone Islands
are m-elancholy evidences of the truth of this assertion.

On this subject I w'ish to be correctly understood. The reader must
certainly be aware by this time that I am a strong advocate for the
prosecution of missionary labours ; for I have experienced the bene-
ficial results of their exertions. But I wish to see those labours so ap-
plied as to produce the greatest possible amount of good deducible
from the extent of means employed. The arts of civilization should
always be taught first ; they are the best and the only proper pioneers
to the doctrines of Christianity. The great Founder and Head of the
Christian religion said to Nicodemus, then about becoming a proselyte,
*' If I have told you of earthly things, and ye believe not, how shall
ye believe if I tell you of heavenly things ?" How can the natives of
a newly discovered island in the Pacific be persuaded that the Creator
of the universe has given his creatures a code of written laws, unless
they are first made to comprehend what writing is, what law is, and
what a code is ? When the most ignorant savages once become con-
vinced that a missionary can teach them to be more happy in this
world, they will place the greater confidence in what he says of happi-
ness and misery in the world to come. If they are not first induced
to love a brother whom they have seen, how can they be taught to love
God, whom they have not seen ?

A missionary should go armed — not with military weapons, nor with
faith alone — but with a judicious and ample collection of mechanical
tools and agricultural implements. With these he should commence
his labours of love and usefulness. His early communications to the
society who sends him on the mission should not contain an account
of the number of new converts who had professed the Christian faith,
and received the outward washing of water, but they should contain

Aug.] BERGH'S GROUP. 421

sentiments similar to those which Kotzebuehas put in the mouth of the
captive Alonzo, ^vhen addressing the tyrant Pizarro : —

" I would gently lead the good Las Casas by the hand through all the
lovely fields of Quito ; there in many a spot where late was barren-
ness and waste, I would show him how now the openmg blossom,
blade, or perfumed bud, sweet bashful pledges of delicious harvest,
wafting their influence to the ripening sun, give cheerful promise of the
hope of industr}'. This, I would say, is my v:ork ! Next I should tell
how hurtful customs and supersthions, strange and sullen, would often
puzzle and dismay the credulous minds of these deluded innocents ;
and then would I point out to him, where now in clustered villages they
live like brothers, social and confiding, while through the burning day
content sits basking on the cheek of toil, till laughing pastime leads
them to the hour of rest ; this too is mine ! And prouder yet, at that
still pause between exertion and repose, belonging not to pastime,
labour, or to rest, but unto Him who sajictions and ordains them all, I
would show him many an eye and many a hand by gentleness from
error won, raised in pure devotion to the true and only God."

The Hebrews were but semi-barbarians when they were emancipated
from Egyptian slavery, and all the rest of the world were idolaters. But
even this chosen people of the Most High were not sufficiently ad-
vanced in civilization to receive the genuine doctrines of theology and
practical religion as they were taught two thousand years afterward,
in that divine discourse of the Saviour called the Sermon on the Mount.
The lesson to them was, " Hear, O Israel ! the Lord our God is one
Lord :" for this was all they could comprehend in that stage of their
existence. After the lapse of twenty centuries, a very small number
of these people were found who could receive the doctrine of the
Trinity. These were then taught what their ancestors could not have
received, that anger was murder, that lust was adultery, that covetous-
ness was theft, and that they must love their enemies.

Why should not the same gradual process be adopted with respect
to the conversion of the South Sea islanders ? They are no more pre-
pared to receive all the evangelical doctrines of the Gospel than the
Jews were when worshipping the golden calf at the foot of Mount
Sinai. It is true the apostles made most of their Christian converts
among the gentiles ; but let it be recollected that these gentiles were
principally Greeks and Romans, at that time the most refined, enlight-
ened, and learned nations on the earth ; much better capacitated than
the Jews for receiving the true doctrine. But I am steering out of my
track, and will return to the Ladrone Islands.

August 2Sth. — From the Ladrone Islands we steered to the south
and east, until Saturday, the 28th of August, when we came to anchor,
at six, P. M., within the coral reef that surrounds Bergh's Group ;
before our anchor had fairly taken the ground, we were visited by
many of our old friends, all of whom appeared to be very much pleased
to see ns again ; and as a token of their friendship, they presented us
with cocoanuts, bread-fruit, and bananas ; in return for which we made
them presents of beads, knives, scissors, looking-glasses, and a few
China trinkets.

422 BERGH'S GROUP. [1830,

On the following morning, before eight, A. M., we might have walked
half a mile from the vessel on the tops of canoes, at all points of the
compass. Every canoe contained a quantity of cocoanuts, bread-fruit,
plantains, bananas, and jack-fruit ; part of which we purchased, and
paid for in the China beads. By four o'clock in the afternoon, we had
more of these fruits thin we had room for on deck, the whole not
costing more than two dollars' worth of beads.

The natives were so well satisfied with the liberal manner in which
we had paid them, that they persisted in throwing fruit upon deck for
some time after we requested them to stop. They seemed to be deter-
mined not to be outdone in liberality, or fearful that they should not
sufficiently compensate us for the articles we had given them, which
they considered of inestimable value. These people are certainly the
most interesting in their manners, the most active in their movements^
and the most pleasing in their countenances, of any race of aborigines
on any island I have ever visited ; and the nautical skill with which
they manage their canoes is truly astonishing ; but not more so than
the ingenuity with which they are plamied and constructed, of which
I will attempt a brief description.

The canoes of these natives are mostly of great length, carrying from
fifteen to thirty men. The bottom is of one stick, or log, generally
from thirty to fifty feet in length, and got out in the form of a canoe,
with no other tools but such as are made of shells, &;c. On this founda-
tion they proceed to build the vessel. Each side is formed of a single
plank or slab, from fourteen to eighteen inches in width, making the
depth of the boat ; but the two sides are not alike, one being nearly-
flat and straight next the water, and the other somewhat bulging. These
sides are sewed fast to the bottom, with a strong cord made from the
bark of. a tree, and also to a beautifully carved head and stern, resem-
bling those of the ancient galleys which we often meet with in classical
paintings.

As these canoes are frequently propelled by sails, and as the bulging
side is always to windward, the reader will naturally suppose that it
could not long retain an upright position, but would be liable to upset.
This is prevented, however, by a very ingenious contrivance. A frame,
called an outrigger, projects out eight or ten feet horizontally from the
rounding, bulging, or windward side, at the extreme end of which is
attached a piece of buoyant wood, shaped something like a canoe. The
weight of this apparatus prevents the boat's capsizing to leeward, while
that side being flat prevents her making lee-way. At the same time
the buoyancy of the outrigger and bamboo frame renders it impossible
for her to overset to windward. This is the form and construction of
their single canoes, which go through the water with great velocity,
whether propelled by paddles or sails, or both.

Their double canoes are formed in the same manner as the one just
described, with the exception of the out-rigger, which of course is not
necessary. Two canoes are fastened together abreast of each other,
with bamboos extended across them, on the same principle of construc-
tion as our twin ferry-steamboats. These canoes are generally about
forty feet in length, and the distance between them is from eight to ten

Aug.] WAR CANOES. 423"

feet. The bamboos which unite them are placed about two feet apart,
and strongly secured to the gunnels Hy a lashing of their bark cord.
Small sticks of bamboo are then extended fore and aft, secured to the
cross pieces, tlius forming a light platform, from twenty to twenty-five
feet in length, and eight or ten feet wide. They paddle on the two
outsides and insides of the canoes, propelling them forward with aston-
ishing speed, much swifter than our whale-boats with six oars, pulled-
by our most vigorous tars. These are (failed their war canoes, and
iwany of them have very curiously carved heads and sterns, which rise
from one to three feet above the hull, not unlike the fashion of the
New-Zealanders. Their paddles are generally four feet in length,
with blades about six inches wide, the whole very neatly finished off
with carved work, admirably executed.

Their sails for the single canoes are made like their own garments,
of a beautiful long grass, which they have the art of weaving into a
strong substantial cloth, suitable for all their ordinary purposes. These
sails are shaped like what is called a " shoulder-of-mutton sail," and
used in the following manner. The mast stands exactly perpendicu-
lar, in the centre of the canoe, being from twelve to eighteen feet in
height. At the head of this mast is hoisted a yard, proportioned to the
"size of the canoe, from twenty-five to thirty-five feet in length. The
sail spreads this yard, and when hoisted at the mast-head, its foot
sweeps the gunnel of the canoe. These sails are cut in such a manner,
that the canoes never need go in stays when beating to windward,
being so constructed as to go either end foremost. When they wish
to go on the other tack, she suddenly falls ofi' until the other end of the
boat becomes the head, and luffs up to the wind ; by which time the
men have raised the tack on the depressed end of the 5'^ard, and brought
its opposite extremity down to the other end of the boat. Thus she
hugs the wind on either side by turns, without ever looking directly in
its teeth.

I have seen these boats going at the rate of eight miles an hour,
within four points of the wind. But let them run large, or before the
wind, with a strong breeze, and I have no doubt but they will go at the
rate of twelve or thirteen miles an hour, in smooth water. By only-
shifting the sail, with a side wind, these canoes will pass, back and
forth, between two islands, each end alternately foremost, with great
rapidity, without the necessity of putting about. The sails, as I ob-
served, are made of the same kind of stuff as their wearing apparel;
but it is made much stouter, and in small pieces of about three feet
square, sewed together. In cutting the sail to its proper shape, the
pieces which come off one side answer to go m\ the other ; this gives
it the proper form, and causes the halliards to be bent on in the middle
of the yard.

As these canoes are used principally in fishing, it will be proper, in
this place, to mention their implements and apparatus for that business.
Their nets and seines are made of twine, which they manufacture from
the bark of a tree. The meshes are about an inch square, and the
length of the seine from fifteen to twenty fathoms, with a depth of
fifteen to eighteen feet. Instead of cork floaters, they use small joints

424 BERGirS GROUP. [1830.

of the bamboo, and for lead sinkers they substilute small smooth
lieavy stones. Their liooks and lines are also very ingeniously con-
structed ; the former being made of mother-of-pearl shell and tor-
toise-shell. The pearl-shell is well adapted to this purpose, as hooks
of this kind require no bait ; for the shining property of the shell de-
ceives the fish, which darts at the fatal illusion, and swallows it without
hesitation. Their lines are made of the same materials as their nets ;
they are very neatly twisted^ and of great strength. As this people
spend a great portion of their time in fishing, they think it but a trifle
to go forty or fifty miles a day in search of their prey, and return the
same evening.

On our first visit to these islands, I stated that a circle of about forty
small islands surrounded several larger ones, four of which were about
thirty miles in circumference. Only the interior islands are inhabited,
and they contain a population of about thirty-five thousand, divided into
two distinct races. The two principal westernmost islands, with a few
small ones, are peopled by a copper-coloured Indian race; while the
two easternmost, with their dependencies, contain a race more nearly
allied to the negro ; and they frequently make war upon each other, as
I understood from both parties, although they were now at peace, and
on friendly terms. The blacks are the most numerous, being about
twenty thousand in number, while the Indians do not exceed fifteen
thousand. I will here attempt a brief description of both, commencing
with the negro tribe, on the two easternmost islands.

In stature the men are about five feet ten inches, well propor-
tioned, muscular, and active ; with prominent swelling chests, well-
moulded limbs, and small feet and hands. Their hair is fine and much
curled, but not like the African's. Their foreheads are high and up-
right, their cheek-bones elevated, their noses well formed, and their
lips moderately thin. They have beautiful white teeth, broad chins,
short thick necks, broad shoulders, and small ears, standing a little
more off from the head than ours. Their eyes are black, bright, quick,
and penetrating, with high and long eyelashes. The general expres-
sion of the countenance indicates a fierce and daring temperament.

Around the waist or loins they wear a mat, made of the bark of a
tree, handsomely woven, and tastefully ornamented with a variety of
figures of different colours. They also wear head ornaments, made
of the same materials, beautifully adorned with different kinds of feath-
ers ; and this, when placed upon tlie head, resembles a low turban,
surmounted with a rich and gaudy fringe. The chiefs have their ears
split, or the rim so cut as to present a large opening, in which they
wear blocks of very light wood, often as big as a man's wrist. This
is generally tastefully decorated with a variety of beautiful feathers,
sharks' teeth, &c. They also wear about their necks necklaces of
tortoise-shell, pearl-shell, and tufts of fine feathers. Their bodies are
very much tattooed, and the operation is generally executed in quite a
tasteful manner, having the appearance of armour. They paint their
hair red, and their faces yellow and white ; except \yhen going to war,
when the latter are painted red, to heighten their ferocious appearance.

The women are small in size, with very handsome delicate features,

Aug.] # THE NATIVES. 425

and a dark sparkling eye, expressive of tenderness and affection. They
have round luxuriant chests, slender waists, small hands and feet,
straight legs, and small ankles. In short, they seem to be, in every
respect, admirably " fitted for the tender offices of love ;" and, settino-
aside our innate prejudice to certain complexions, their personal charms
are of very superior order. They do not, however, neglect the " for-
eign aid of ornament ;" but deck themselves M'ith the richest feathers
and shells they can obtain, through parental and fraternal affection, or
the gallantry of lovers or husbands. Around their head and neck they
wear many kinds of ornaments, made of the spoils of birds and fishes ;
their arms and legs are also decorated in a similar manner, while their
breasts are tastefully but very lightly tattooed. They likewise wear a
small apron, eight inches wide, and twelve inches long, which they in-
geniously ornament around the edges in a very pretty manner, with a dia-
mond worked in the centre, of little choice shells. Over all they wear
a cloak or mantle, made of a fine silky grass, woven with great skill
and neatness, some of which are tastefully bordered and fringed. This
garment is about eight feet in length, and six feet wide, with a hole in
the middle just large enough to admit the head ; and when worn, it
much resembles the South American poncho.

The duties and avocations of the females consist in making all the
clothing, fishing-lines, and nets ; cooking the food, and taking care of
the children; which latter task they perform with exemplar)' care,
attention, and tenderness. They are very kind and affectionate to
their husbands ; and the latter in return treat their wives with a delicacy
and respect that might put some Christians to the blush. In short, they
are promising subjects for the operations of.judicious missionaries, who
attach more importance to practical than to theoretical religion.

The two westernmost islands, as I have said, are peopled by about
fifteen thousand copper-coloured Indians, who are somewhat less in
stature than the negro tribe I have just attempted to describe. The
men are generally only about five feet eight inches in height ; but
they are stouter, stronger, more athletic, and better calculated for war,
and enduring hardships, than the darker skinned tribe just alluded to.
They are very active, and remarkably strong. I have seen several of
them, who would not weigh more than one hundred and fifty pounds
each, lift our small bower anchor, weighing upwards of six hundred,
with apparently as much ease as I could lift a hundred weight ; and yet
they live entirely on fruit and fish, without stimulants of any descrip-
tion. They have straight round bodies, with full chests, muscular
limbs, and well-formed hands and feet.

Their complexion is a very light copper-colour ; their hair black and
long, and generally neatly " done up" on the top of the head. They
have high prominent foreheads, indicative of intellectual capabilities,
at the lower edge of which, especially with the females, are a pair of
long jet-black silken eyelashes, with more than what we would consider
a usual curve. These are merely the drapery or window-curtains under
which the soul peeps out from her palace, through the crystal medium
of a pair of bright penetrating black eyes. Their faces are round,
phr.np, and full ; the cheek-bones not being so high as is usual with

426 BERGirS GROUP. (|fc [l830.

Other savage tribes. They have a handsome nose, moderately elevated,
with a mouth well proportioned to the other features of the face, and a
beautiful set of teeth, whiter than the purest ivory. Dimpled cheeks
and double chins are common to the young of both sexes. The mea
have short "tliick necks, the front part of which is generally covered
■with a long black beard, which is permitted to grow only from the chin.
Some of their principal chiefs, however, wear very large mustachios*
They have large ears, in the lower part of which is a slit sufficiently
large for the reception of an ornament of the size of a goose-egg. This
js often decorated with the teeth of various kinds of fish, shells, birds'
bills, feathers, and flowers of the valleys. They also wear a neck
ornament of nearly the same materials. They are seldom tattooed,
excepting from the lower part of the neck to the pit of the stomach ;
which is often, on the breast of a chief, one uninterrupted tattoo, repre-
senting various imaginary figures, executed with much taste and neat-
ness. The dress of both sexes is like that of their eastern neighbours,,
from which it does not vary in any important particular. They wear
rings, or bracelets, of tortoise-shell on their arms, and of pearl-shell
on their legs and ancles. For personal cleanliness they may defy
competition with any people on earth. They are naturally good-
humoured, friendly, lively, cheerful, and active ; uncommonly kind and
aflfectionate to their wives and children, and' pay great deference and
respect to age.

The women generally are of about the same size as ours, delicately
formed, with very slender waists, and exquisitely moulded busts. Their
hands and feet are not larger than those of our children at twelve years
of age ; and I have frequently, with both hands, spanned the waists of
girls of eighteen and twenty years old. They are marriageable at the
age of one hundred and fifty rnoons, which is about twelve years.
They have small heads, high foreheads, large black eyes, full plump
cheeks, handsomely-formed noses, small mouth, and its never-failing
appendage in this part of the world, a beautiful set of teeth, which adds
a thousand charms to each bewitching smile. Their ears are small,
and their necks very delicately formed, back of which flows their long
black hair, when not done up on the back of the head. They are ex-
tremely modest and sensitive on particular subjects, and blushes can
frequently be seen playing through the darkness of their complexions.
Their countenances ever express vivacity and cheerfulness ; their
movements are elastic and sylph-like ; even the Virginian Pocahontas,
on the score of personal attractions and tenderness of disposition, would
be thrown in the shade by a comparison Avith the fascinating females
of Bergh's Group.

Chastity and fidelity in the marriage state are innate prmciples with
these people ; and the possibility of their violation is hardly conceived
of. Consequently, their conjugal connexions are almost uniformly
happy. A wife never speaks to her husband without a smile of affec-
tion on her countenance ; and in all my intercourse with them, I never
heard a man speak harshly or unkindly to a female. Their social
attachments are also very strong, and even the most distant relation-
ships appear to be held more sacred than the nearest and closest are

Aug.] THE NATIVES. 427

sometimes held among civilized Americans. They are faithful friends,
good neighbours, and pay implicit obedience to the laws and customs
by which they are governed. Acts of injustice and oppression are
scarcely known among them ; but charity, kindness, and benevolence
prevail to the greatest extent. They will fight bravely in the cause of
a friend ; but are never quarrelsome or revengeful on account of any
private injury they may have received themselves. Their personal
contests are very rare, however ; but when they do occur, they are
conducted with the strictest regard to honour and fair play. A man
will not attack his neighbour, whatever be his provocation, until he has
first ascertained that the physical prowess of liis antagonist is not
much inferior to his own ; as they hold it in abhorrence to take advan-
tage of the weak.

For active industry, cheerful diligence, and patient perseverance no
parallel can be found for them among the natives of any island in the
Pacific Ocean, that I have ever visited. The men, women, and chil-
dren are all in active motion from sunrise to sunset ; ehher in catching
fish, or at work on their canoes, war implements, fishing apparatus,
wearing apparel, or habitations. Every thing they do is executed with
the greatest neatness and ingenuity, notwithstanding they have no better
tools than such as they themselves manufacture from shells, stones,
and the teeth of fish. It is expressly forbidden by their laws to
remain in bed after the sun has risen, cases of sickness and bodily
infirmity excepted ; dyspepsia and liver complaints, therefore, with the
thousand and one ills that civihzed flesh is heir to, are imknown to the
natives of these happy islands.

• In describing the virtues and amiable qualities of these natives, I
would not be understood to say that there were no exceptions, nor any
solitary instances of violating the laws. A perfect state of society
does not, and perhaps never can, exist on this diversified globe. The
very necessity of a law implies the contrary. To strike a woman is
justly considered by the natives of Bergh's Group as an unnatural and
unmanly act, whatever may be the provocation. But if a woman prove
refractory, disobedient, or abusive to her husband, and gentle means
will not reclaim her, she is transported to a small island of the group,
where none but women reside, and the man who is known to take one
of them ofi*, without permission of the government, must sufler death.
Punishments still more severe are inflicted on the man who iJl-treats
his wife.

• For feats of strength, agility, and address some of these natives
would put our best circus performers to the blush. They will throw
a rapid succession of somersets, back and forward, without any thing
elastic beneath their feet ; and diey are equally expert in running,
jumping, climbing, pitching heavy substances, &c. They will ascend
a cocoanut-tree, which is tall, straight, and smooth as the mast of a
ship, with as much apparent ease and agility as a sailor will ascend
the ratlines of shrouds that have just been, well set up. They excel also
in swimming, and appear to be as much at home in the water as the
seal or the tortoise. They will dive to the bottom in fifteen fathoms
of water, and bring up jialf a dozen pearl oysters, with as much

428 BERGH'S GROUP. [1830.

ease as some of our best swimmers M'ill go down in three fathoms,
and bring any tiling from the bottom.

With respect to tlie rehgious ideas of these islanders, the little infor-
mation I obtained may be communicated in a few words. They
believe that all things are created by some wise and powerful Being,
who rules over and governs the whole, and whose residence is above
the stars ; that he watches over all his children, and all animated
things, with paternal care and aifection ; that he provides food for man,
for the birds, fish, and insects ; the most minute being intended to feed
the larger, and the whole to sustain the human race ; that the Creator
waters these islands with his own hand, by pouring down seasonable
rains from above ; that he planted the cocoanut-tree, the bread-fruit,
and all the other trees, together with every shrub, plant, and spire of
grass ; that good actions are pleasing to him, but that bad actions make
him angry ; that they shall be happy or miserable hereafter, according
to their conduct in this life ; that the good will then live on a group of
lovely islands, still more pleasant and beautiful than their own, while
the bad shall be separated from them, and transported to some rocky
desolate island where there are no cocoanuts, nor bread-fruit, nor fresh
water, nor fish, nor a single vestige of vegetation. They have no
temples, churches, or forms of worship ; but say they love the Supreme
Being for his goodness to them.

They hold the marriage contract to be a sacred and binding obliga-
tion ; and that it must be solemnized either in presence of the king, or
one of his majesty's principal chiefs duly authorized and delegated for
that purpose. Previous to this contract being made, no restraint is
imposed upon either party, and the unmarried woman may bestow
her favours on whom she pleases, M'ithout incurring censure, or
feeling conscious of doing wrong. But once married, and a false
step is infamy. A pregnant female, married or unmarried, is looked
upon with respect and honour ; M'hile she herself, with conscious pride
of her own friiitfulness, is very far from taking any pains to conceal
her situation. A young native in search of a wife generally gives
the preference to one who has already given such incontrovertible
evidence of her ability to build him up a family.

Their funeral rites are also somewhat singular and peculiar. On
the decease of a near relative, they abstain from all kinds of food for
forty-eight hours ; and for one month afterward, they take nothing but
fruit, depriving themselves entirely of fish, which is their greatest
luxury. For the loss of a parent, or a conjugal partner, they also
retire in solitude to the mountains, for three months. But duty now
compels me to add another circumstance, which for the honour of
human nature, I wish could be omitted consistently with truth. —
The death of the king, or a principal chief, is always celebrated by
human sacrifices ! Several men, women, and children are selected as
his honorary attendants to the world of spirits ; and they are proud of
the distinction, for they are buried in the same grave with him ! On
these occasions, and for two months after the funeral obsequies of a
chief, not a canoe is allowed to float upon the water. A few humane
missionaries would soon dispel this dark cloud of superstition.

Aug.] MODE OF WARFARE. 429

I have already said that the Indian race, who inhabit the two western
islands, and the negro race, who inhabit the two eastern islands, are
often at war with each other ; but I have not yet mentioned their pecu-
liar mode of commencing and carrying on hostilities. From all I can
learn, the following is their general plan of operations.

If the western islanders have received, or think they have received,
an injury from their eastern neighbours, they send the aggressors notice,
by an agent duly authorized for the mission, that in five days from that
date (for they always give five days' notice), at such an hour, and in
such a place, a certain number of warriors will land on their territory
from a specified number of canoes, armed and equipped in such and
such a manner ; at which time and place negotiations may be opened,
for explanations and the redress of grievances.

The landing, the meeting, and the negotiation, all take place accord-
ingly ; and if the subject of dispute be amicably adjusted, the affair
terminates with a banquet, and both parties are satisfied. But if, on
the other hand, they fail to agree, " then comes the tug of war." An
equal number of warriors meet the complainants, face to face, and
" let the hardest fend off." For half an hour they fight like ferocious
tigers, dealing out wounds and death without pity or compunction.
They then separate, as if by mutual consent, and rest for the remainder
of the day ; both parties remainmg near the field of battle, burying
their dead, and attending to the wants of the wounded.

On the following day, when both parties have declared themselves
in readiness, the contest is renewed, with twofold earnestness, and
continues twice the time of the yesterday's battle, unless one of the
contending parties should give in, and yield the victory to the other.
On the contrary, at the termination of an hour's hard fighting, they
again separate, lay aside their weapons, and assist each other in bury-
ing the dead, and giving relief to the wounded, in the most amicable
manner. On the third day the fate of the campaign is decided. They
commence the battle in the morning, and continue it until one of the
parties is beaten. If it be the invaders, they forfeit their canoes and
weapons to the conquerors, who are bound to give the vanquished a
feast, and convey them to their own islands in safety, where a treaty
of peace is ratified by another feast, which lasts two days. The two
islands will then be in mourning for fifteen days, in honour of their
friends who have fallen in battle. After this a friendly intercourse is
renewed, and both parties pass and repass from their respective islands
as usual.

On the other hand, should the invading party prove victorious, the
others will accede to their demands, and make the best treaty that cir-
cumstances will allow, always ratified by a feast of two days' duration.
The prisoners taken during the action belong to the individuals who
take them, if their party be victorious ; otherwise they are given up to
the conquerors ; but the yielding party are never considered or treated
as prisoners, but are honourably used, and sent to their respective
homes, as before stated.

The weapons with which these battles are decided consist of spears
made of very light wood, and pointed with flint-stone or fish-bones ;

430 BERGH'S GROUP. [1830.

and another kind made of very lieavj- wood, about sixteen feet in length,
sharply pointed, and hardened in the fire. These they will throw to
the distance of thirty or forty yards, at a mark the size of a man, and
never miss it, generally hitting it near the centre. The points of their
weapons are never poisoned ; but whether from a principle of honour,
or the want of means, I was not informed. Their war clubs are made
of a species of wood which much resembles our fustic ; being from six
to eight feet in length, and about the size of a man's wrist at each end,
but smaller in the middle ; very smoothly wrought, handsomely pro-
portioned ; and, in some parts, elegantly carved. They grasp them
by the centre, and exercise with them much in the same manner as an
Irishman plays with his " sprig of shilaleh." With this weapon I have
seen one man keep half a dozen at bay at the same time. Their slings,
with which they generally commence the battle, are made of the fibres
of the bark of a tree ; and are about three feet in length when doubled:
In the centre] is formed a very neat saddle for the stone, which is
generally the size of a goose-egg; this they will throw from one hun-
dred to one hundred and fifty yards with tolerable precision.

The habitations of these islanders are happily contrived and inge-
niously constructed. In size they vary from twenty to sixty feet in
length, and from ten to thirty feet in breadth ; being only one story
high, with angular roofs, neatly thatched with cocoanut and palm leaves,
which render them completely water-tight. The sides of the house
are covered, during the rainy season, with large mats, made of the
same materials, which are put up about the last of November, and
removed again about the first of February, and stowed away under
the pitch of the roof, in a place constructed for that purpose. Thus,
for nearly ten mpnths of the year, the air has a free circulation through
all parts of the house, both night and day. When the tight water-
proof mats are removed in February, their place is supplied for the
pleasant season by a set of open-work mats, resembling, in appearance,
the top or staysail netting of a ship, and forming a beautiful substitute
for lattice-work. The floors are carpeted with coarse mats, which
are regularly washed once a week, at the sea-shore.

Their beds are soft mats, very finely wrought, of which the more
delicate and luxurious have several thicknesses or layers, piled on each
other. Some of the females who are mothers have baskets, or
cradles of wickerwork, suspended to the roof of the house, for the
young children to sleep in. They liave also a kind of bed or crib very
ingeniously contrived for the sick, consisting of a large strong mat,
stretched on a frame of bamboo, elevated about eighteen inches from
the floor, and furnished with sides of network. These are so con-
trived, with a hole or opening in the centre, that the patient who is
very low need not be disturbed by the necessary calls of nature.
Over these cribs, or sick-beds, are suspended large fans, made of palm
leaves, which the patient can easily put in motion by a small cord.
They also have finely-wrought mats, made expressly to eat from,
which after every meal are immediately taken to the water and washed.
In short, on the score of personal and domestic cleanliness, these
islanders of Bergh's Group excel every race of people I ever saw or

aug.] SOIL AND CLIMATE. 431

heard of; and my wife frequently tells me, in her playful manner,
that for her improvement in the science of housekeeping she is
indebted to the lessons she received from the ladies of Bergh's Group.

Their houses are arranged in clusters, or small villages ; standing
in regular rows, with streets between them, about fifty fathoms wide.
Each liause has a spacious yard attached to it, surrounded by a bam-
boo fence, so constructed as to admit a free circulation of the air. In
the centre of each village is the residence of a chief, who directs all
its affairs in the capacity of magistrate, and to whose judgment all
local disputes are submitted ; with the right of appealing from his de-
cision to that of the king, or head chief of the tribe.

These islands are moderately elevated, each of them being high in
the centre, and gradually descending into beautiful valleys and fertile
plains towards the shores, at all points of the compass, with crystal
streams running into the sea in every direction. It will easily be
conceived that a group of islands thus situated, near the equator,
covered M'hh a deep mellow soil, and presenting such features to a
tropical sun, must teem with vegetable life in rapid and perpetual suc-
cession. Indeed, I doubt if the last word be appropriate where blos-
soms and ripe fruit adorn the same trees, and even the same branches,
interspersed with the same kind of fruit in all its different stages and
gradations of existence. Every faUing leaf is merely pushed from
its stem by a newly formed successor, while the full-seeded plants,
grass, and vegetables are compelled to give place to a premature off-
spring. Spring, summer, and autumn are here in perpetual conten-
tion for the supremacy. Winter merely takes a hasty peep at the
contest, and retires with an animating smile even SM'eeter than their
own.

Were the inhabitants of these islands only possessed of a little
aoricultural knowledge, and would exercise it with a tithe of the skill
and ingenuity which they display on self-taught arts of less import-
ance, these islands might soon become the richest gardens of the
world. I hope and trust that I have been instrumental in laying the
foundation of such a desirable revolution. I communicated all the
information on the subject M'hich our brief intercourse would permit,
through interpreters whose native dialect was so similar to their own
that they could converse together without the least difficulty. I also
furnished them with a variety of seeds, M'hich they promised to plant
and cultivate according to my directions. Among these were, apples,
pears, peaches, plums, melons, pumpkins, yams, potatoes, onions,
cabbages, beets, carrots, parsnips, beans, pease, Sic. I have no doubt
but coffee, pepper, sugar-cane, and spices of various kinds woidd
thrive on these islands with little or no trouble.

The thick and heavy growth of the forests is evidence of sufficient
weight to prove the richness of the soil which clothes the surface of
these beautiful islands. I know that the uplands produce sandal-wood,
but in what quantities I was not able to ascertain. A great number
and variety of beautiful plants are found in every direction ; not only
in the valleys and plains, but also on the hills, to their very summits.
Many of these were strangers to me, and such, I presume, as are not

432 BERGH'S GROUP. ' [1830

generally known in this country. Some of them, I am sure, would
he highly esteemed by scientific collectors. The cocoanut and bread-
fruit-trees, here grow to an enormous size, and their fruits are much
larger and of more delicious flavour than those I have been accus-
tonied to see in other islands of these seas.

The natives of Bergh's Group are blessed with the purest of water,
descending in limpid streams from their mountain sources. But they
seldom drink it until it has ascended through the invisible veins of the
lofty cocoanut-tree, and concealed itself in the centre of its delectable
fruit. Thus puritied in one of nature's sweetest alembics, they con-
sider it the purest and most Avholesome beverage in the world.

The climate here is also delightful, never too hot, nor too cold.
Lying in the strength of that aerial current called the north-east
trade-winds, these islands are always refreshed with a fine cool sea-
breeze, which keeps the atmosphere in a pure state, imparting health,
activity, and vigour to every department of animated nature.

Of the animals found in these islands my information is very lim-
ited, as I had no opportunity of inspecting the interior. I know that
the groves abound with a great variety of birds, all of them beautiful
to the eye, and most of them charmingly musical. I saw several
reptiles of the lizard family, but none of the serpent tribe. Insects
are numerous, gaudy and sparkling, but none of them troublesome.
Of minerals we saw none worthy of notice. The waters within the
outer reef that surrounds the whole group are swarming with a great
variety of excellent fish, which may be taken in great abundance,
either with a seine or by hook and line. Shellfish of various kinds,
abound among the reefs and shoals, and along the shores, some of
which afibrd rare specimens, surpassing any thing I have ever met
with in any other part of the world. I know of no place where the
naturalist and virtuoso could procure a richer collection of rare, cu-
rious, and valuable shells than at these islands. Pearl oysters are
plenty, and those which we obtained of the natives were of the same
kind as the Sooloo sea-shell. The green turtle is abundant, but I
think that the hawk's-bill tortoise is very scarce, as we saw few in the
water, and not much of the shell among the natives.

Bidie-de-mer may be obtained here in great abundance, and of a
very superior quality, provided the amicable professions of the natives
can be depended on, without v/hich it would be impossible to cure
tliem, in which case the time and labour of taking them would be
entirely lost. Under favourable circumstances, several cargoes might
be taken here, a great part of which would command the highest
price, if the specimens we saw are a criterion for judging of its gen-
eral quality. Some that we found were two feet in length, and eigh-
teen inches in circumference ; the meat of which, when the entrails
were taken out, would weigh from seven to nine pounds ! This is a
larger size than any that I have ever seen at the Feejee Islands, the
New-Hebrides, Bougainville's, New-Ireland, New-Britain, New-Guinea,
New-Hanover, or even at the Massacre Islands.

I have not the least doubt, that a ship built and equipped expressly
for a voyage to these islands, for the purpose of procuring pearls.

- 11

Aug.] NECESSARY EQUIPxMENTS. * 433

pearl and tortoise-shell, sandal-wood, biche-dc-mcr, and other valuables,
under the conduct of a careful and able commander, would obtam
two or three cargoes for the Canton market without having any trouble
with the natives, provided they are treated with kindness, and dealt
with honourably. For such an enterprise, tlie necessary articles of
traffic are, beads, looking-glasses, tinder-works, axes, hatchets, adzes,
saws, planes, chisels, gouges, gimlets, files, rasps, spoke-shaves,
hammers, knives, scissors, razors, needles, thread, difterent kinds of
crockery-ware, cheap chintz, and calicoes of bright gaudy colours,
and all sorts of trinkets. These articles should all be selected by a
man who has a thorough knowledge of the trade.

A ship intended for tliis trade should be from three hundred to
three hundred and fifty tons burthen ; built of good materials, of a
light draught of water, and a fast sailer. She should also be built on
a different construction from any other vessel, and rigged into a barque.
She should be well armed, with at least ten double fortified twelve-
pound carronades ; and two long twelves, and manned with an effect-
ive crew of forty or fifty able-bodied men, with a select first-rate set
of officers, besides several medical and scientific men. She should
also be provided with four brass blunderbusses for each top, with
water-tiglit arm-chests, for the same purpose. Her anchors and cables
should be of more than double the usual weight and strength of those
intended for any other trade. She should be amply supplied with all
kinds of nautical instruments, for ascertaining the exact situation of
all the islands and places she might visit, in order that the same may
be accurately laid down, for the benefit of others. Above all, she
should be placed under the command of a man who is qualified for the
husiness ; one who is familiarly acquainted with the peculiar naviga-
tions of those seas, and who will study the health and comfort of his
men, and the permanent welfare of the natives. »

Such a ship, thus prepared for a two years' voyage, and navigated
by such a commander, would return an immense profit to the owners.
I do not entertain the shadow of a doubt, that an investment of thirty-
five or forty thousand dollars, thus employed, would yield a return of
at least two hundred thousand dollars. The discovery of these islands
has laid open a field for the exercise of commercial enterprise of vast
importance, not only to individuals, but to our country at large. The
soil is rich, and capable of producing, under proper cultivation, all
the vegetable wealth of a tropical climate.

In giving these islands the name of Bergh's Group, I was actuated
solely by the desire of adding to the well-earned celebrity of a name
v.hieh is universally respected by ail who have the happiness of
knowing the family which it designates. J\Iy friend Edwin Bergh is
ihe son of Christian Bergh, Esq., a ship-builder of no inconsiderable
eminence, in the city of New- York ; and is justly entitled to
the honour of having his name engraved in characters that time can
never obliterate, on the coral parapet that surrounds the loveliest group
of islands in the Pacific Ocean. I claim to be the first discoverer of
these islands, and I know then- worth. Independent of my own ob-
sen'ations, the natives were ver)^ communicative to me on the subject

E e

434 SAIL FROM BERGH'S GROUP. [1830.

of their natural productions and capabilities, through the interpreters
before alluded to, wlio were natives of Yap, an island which is situated
about sixty leagues north-east of the Pelew Islands, the natives of
which speak a language almost exactly like that spoken by the inhab-
itants of Bergh's Group. These men had acquired the Spanish lan-
guage at Manilla, through which medium my information was ob-
tained.

August 2\st. — I am fully convinced tliat the natives of these islands
are more mild, gentle, peaceable, and honourably disposed, than any
other savage tribes I have ever met with ; but they are still savages,
and from some suspicious circumstances which occurred on Tuesday
^le 3 1st of August, I adopted the conclusion that it would not be pru-
dent to trust them too far, well knowing, from long experience, that
caution is the parent of security. On the day just mentioned, the
Antarctic was surrounded by more than four hundred canoes, in many
of which we saw, for the first time, a large supply of war implements.
As we had never taken notice of any thing of this kind before, we began
to entertaui some unpleasant suspicions of intended treachery and im-
pending hostilities ; although, when questioned on the subject, by our
natives of Yap, they solemnly denied having any inimical intentions,
alleging that they had merely armed in consequence of some appre-
hended dispute with the negroes.

• This explanation was not satisfactory, and as I felt a great reluctance
to come to an open rupture with a people to whom I had become so
strongly attached, I determined to shorten my visit, and leave them
in the course of tlie day. In the mean time I adopted every necessary
precaution for the defence of the vessel. A double sentry was placed
in the gangways, on both quarters, and on both bows, with four loaded
muskets by each man. Men with lighted matches in their hands were
stationed by the brass swivels which wore mounted on the rail, and
loaded with canisters of muskct-balls. They stood with the monkey-
tails in their hands, the aprons ofl', with instructions not to touch a
single match to the priming without distinct orders from me, which
would not be given unless the natives commenced an attack. What-
ever might have been their original secret intentions, they were evi-
dently forcibly struck with the imusual stir and bustle on board the
Antarctic ; wliere llic drums were beating, the colours flying, the fifes
playing, and the bugles sounding, " with fearful note of dreadful prepa-
ration."' While our deck was thus enlivened, our gallant tars were
all life and activity, paying the most prompt attention to the various
duties assigned them. In a few minutes the anchor was at the bow ;
and in the next moment, to the astonishment of the gazing natives, the
Antarctic's white wings were all expanded at once, even to steering-
sails and stay-sails, courteously wooing the breeze, which was wafting
her along at the rate of eight miles an hour.

At the moment that orders were given to let fall the sails (the yards
and gafls being at the mast-heads), to sheet home the topsails, and
gather aft the sheets of the fore-and-aft sails, the music struck up
Yankee Doodle ; and in less than two minutes from the time the anchor
came to the bows (all the canvass being still furled), all sail was sely

Sept.] MONTEVERDESOX'S GROUP. 435

trimmed to the wind, and the Antarctic was once more gliding over the
bosom of the placid lagoon, with all her native grace and beauty.

September 3d. — On Friday, the 3d of September, we passed within
about ten miles of the east end of Young William's Group, on our way
to Monieverdeson's Islands, at which it was our intention to touch.

CHAPTER MIL

The reader will perhaps recollect, that when we left Monteverdeson's
Islands, on the 18th of May, as recorded in Chapter VI., the Antarctic
was chased several miles by an armed flotilla of canoes, manned by
more than five hundred hostile savages. Unwilling to shed the blood
of this treacherous misguided people, we left them to their own reflec-
tions ; hoping that our forbearance on that occasion would teach them
a more salutary lesson than a demonstration of our power could have
done. In coming to this conclusion, however, we judged them more
favourably than they deserved ; as they attributed our lenity to imbe-
cility, and our retreat to cowardice ; an opinion which only tended to
encourage their treachery and increase their audacity and presump-
tion.

September 5th. — In our passage from Bergh's Group to the Massacre
Islands, we found it expedient to touch once more at Monteverdeson's
Group ; and accordingly, on Sunday, the 5th of September, at five,
A. M., we were close in with its western end ; and at six, A. M., were
visited by about two hundred of the natives, in their canoes, without
arms. Nothing was said on either side about their unwarranted and'
unprovoked designs against us, three months before ; they pretended
to be very sincere in their amicable professions, and we pretended t«
believe them. They also appeared to be very eager and anxious to
trade with us, in which we indulged them, as far as their little stock
of trifling curiosities extended. The breeze having now died away to
B perfect calm, the vessel was drifted about by a gentle current, which
set to the south-west.

The natives remained alongside until five o'clock in the afternoon,
when they all took leave of us in a very friendly manner, and paddled
towards the nearest island, which was then about three miles to the
north-east. AVhen they had proceeded about half-way to the shore,
ihey all suddenly came to a fuJl stop ; but for what purpose we could

E e 2

436 ATTACK UPON THE ANTARCTIC. [1830.

not imagine. As the sun was about setting, we at first conjectured that
it niitrht be some religious ceremony that detained them, such as paying
their evening adoration to the departing luminary. Our conjectures
and doubts, however, were not of long duration. A party of about
three hundred warriors was soon observed to put off from the shore,
and join those who were lying on their oars.

In the next moment wo could see the new comers hastily distributing
%var-clubs, spears, bowa* and an-rows, and other offensive weapons,
among the traders who had so recently left us with every demonstration
of friendship. By tlie aid of our glasses, we watched these suspicious
movements with painful interest. When the arms were distributed to
every canoe, we could see them paint their faces red, and adorn iheir
heads with cocoanut leaves- and red feathers. They then appeared to
hold a short council of war ; and in a few minutes after, the whole
force started for the Antarctic, with great speed, and in two divisions.
As they drew near, we could perceive that their ferocious countenances
exhibited a desperate determination to succeed in carrying the Antarctic,
or perish in the attempt.

I now' repented of my forbearance on a former occasion. I regretted
that I did not then lay-to, for a few minutes, and punish their treachery,
.while we had a fme breeze and daylight in our favour. I regretted it
for their own sake ; for at that time a slight chastisement would have
been sufficient to admonish them of the impropriety of their conduct.
But they were now imboldened by our lenity, and the mistaken confi-
dence that they had to deal with cowards. We could not leave them
to the enjoyment of their error, for we were perfectly becalmed ; the
sun had set, and the alternative was life or death. They persisted in
their fatal folly, and the result was inevitable.

It is scarcely necessary to say that we were prepared for such an
emergency. Every man was at his quarters, ready to receive the
impending assault. The guns were double-shotted with grape and
canister ; the swivels were loaded with canisters of musket-balls ;
one hundred loaded muskets were on deck, all in excellent order ;
each of the crew was armed with a brace of pistols, and a cut-
lass by his side, with a boarding-pike within his reach. Every man
was ready to sacrifice his life in defence of the Antarctic ; and their
enthusiasm was not in the least diminished by the knowledge that the
fate of a lady was connected with the result.

The savage warriors advanced in fine order, and with great rapidity ;
exhibiting in their manceuvres a coolness, tact, skilfulness, and deliberate
calculation that I was not prepared to expect, and which would have
•honoured a better cause. As soon as they approached within close
pistol-shot, and by the time that their first volley of arrows was
fastened in the empty sails, now flapping in useless drapery against the
masts, the Antarctic opened a brisk and well-directed fire, from her great
guns, swivels, and musketry ; which must liave appeared to the assail-
ants as one sheet of flame. Agreeably to previous orders, the pieces
were all immediately reloaded as before, but not discharged.

We waited, somewhat anxiously, for the smoke to clear away, in
order to ascertain the situation and disposition of the enemy ; who, to

Sept.] ' ARRIVE AT THE MASSACRE ISLANDS. 437

our no small surprise, were all in the water, like so many porpoises !
Several of their canoes were literally cut to pieces ; and their imple-
ments of war appeared scattered over the surface of the sea, in every
direction. The excited crew were blowing their matches, anxious to
give them another volley during their confusion. But this I positively
forbade, being well convinced that the unexpected cordiality of their
reception would more than satisfy the ill-advised assailants. An im-
ploring look, which I construed into a petition for mercy, was cast
towards the Antarctic by almost every one of the terrified swimmers ;
the appeal was irresistible, and I granted them a respite which they
would never have given us, had their diabolical designs succeeded.
They hastily got into such of their canoes as were yet fit for service,
picked up their wounded, collected most of their scattered weapons,
took their shattered canoes in tow, and started for the shore with as
much alacrity of exertion as ever they exercised before.

By this time it was totally dark ; and having no wind, we were
obliged to keep all hands at quarters during the night ; lest the savages
should return with reinforcements, under the expectation of taking us
by surprise. At daylight, however, we took a light breeze from east-
north-east, and continued on our course to the south and east.

September 9th, — On Wednesday, the 9th, we took the south-east ^
trade-wmds, from east-by-south to east- south-east, and fair weather;
being in latitude 3° 40' north, longitude 158° 41' east. On the Friday
following we crossed the equator, in longitude 159° 4' east. We found
the currents the same as on our former passage through this region ;
and on the third day after entering the southern hemisphere, we found
ourselves close in with the east end of that group which I had too much
reason to call the " Massacre Islands,''''

Septemher I4tk, — On Tuesday, the 14th, at 10 A. M., we came to
anchor within a quarter of a mile of the beach of that island which had
drunk the blood of fourteen as gallant tars as ever sailed under the
star-spangled banner of my native country. Our anchor was dropped
in ten fathoms of water, directly in front of the village.

The Antarctic had been seen and recognised by the natives on the
previous evening ; and long before we reached our anchorage, canoes
were seen starting from every island filled with warriors, armed with
bows and arrows, war-clubs, &;c. ; and before our anchor had clung
to the coral bottom for half an hour, the cannibals made a general
attack upon the Antarctic in their canoes ; while many of them waded
ofi* towards the vessel, on the coral reef, within arrow distance.

They had seen us depart in weakness, on the 29th of May, well
knowing how much their perfidious treachery had thinned our crew,
and reduced our physical prowess. Ignorant of our present accession
of strength and numbers, as not more than twenty men were to be seen
at any time above the waist-cloths, they doubtless counted on an easy
consummation of the work of destruction they had so successfully
commenced at our former visit. Whatever might have been their cal-
culations, they lost no time in making the desperate experiment.

They advanced against us with as formidable a flotilla as the whole
group of islands could furnish ; and we av»ailed their approach with

438 MASSACRE ISLANDS. " [1830.

that kind of ominous stillneiss which precedes an earthquake, or the
bursting of a volcano. They advanced in good order, and deliberately
took their stations in different positions around tlie vessel, choosing
such distance as best comported with their ideas of nautical warfare.
When they were satisfied in this respect, tliey saluted us with a shower
of arrows, which were well intended, but harmless in effect.

I now gave the word to fire ; and for ten minutes nothing more was
heard but one continued roar of cannons, swivels, and musketry.
The astounded assailants retreated with the utmost precipitation, trepi-
dation, and dismay. They were scattered like chaff before the hur-
ricane. My officers and men were eager to follow them in our boats ;
but to this rash measure I would by no means consent.

It now occurred to me, and the suggestion met the approbation of my
officers, that if any one of our missing friends should have happily
escaped the general massacre, and be still living among these canni-
bals, the only effectual means of recovering him Mould be to com-
mence firing upon the town. We accordingly got springs upon our
cable, and in a few minutes opened the Antarctic's battery upon their
bamboo village. The roar of the guns, and the unexpected effect
which our star and double-head shot produced among their light habi-
tations, alarmed the natives to the extent of our wishes. The eloquence
of cannon was too sublime for their nerves, and immediately produced
beneficial results.

A small canoe, containing a painted wretch, entirely naked, was seen
to put off from the shore, and make directly for the Antarctic. It was
vigorously paddled by this individual, whose whole soul seemed ab-
sorbed in the effort. Expecting this to be an embassy despatched
from the chief with overtures of conciliation, I ordered the firing to be
suspended until the messenger had performed his mission. As soon as
he came within hailing distance, I demanded the nature of his busi-
ness ; but what was our astonishment and delight to hear him reply,
in our own language, " It is I — old Shaw, come back again !"

The scene which followed beggars description. A suit of clothes
%vas handed him in the canoe, and he was soon on deck. His wasted,
emaciated form was lacerated with wounds ; his face, deprived of the
bushy whiskers which formerly shaded his cheeks, was bedaubed with
.paint. In short, he was the spectre of wretchedness, with the excep-
tion of his eyes, which were beaming with unspeakable joy. He was
embraced, and re-embraced, and wept over by every soul on board
the Antarctic ; the most rugged tar of Manilla not excepted. He was
greeted as one risen from the dead. It was a scene I shall never for-
get ; and when I thought how urgently I had been dissuaded against
this enterprise by my friends at Manilla, in the fulness of my heart I
involuntarily exclaimed aloud, " Almighty God ! I thank thee!" The
rapture of that moment cancelled all my previous sufferings — I was
repaid a million-fold.

As soon as order and discipline could be restored, Mr. Shaw gave
us a brief recital of his escape from the massacre ; his submission
and slavery to the savages ; and the unparalleled sufferings he had
endured : all which shall be laid before the reader, in his own words,

Sept.] EXCITEMENT OF THE CREW. 439

at the conclusion of this chapter. The revoking particulars filled us
Avith horror ; and were almost too distressing for the more sensitive
nerves of my wife.

As soon as the crew's strong suspicions of these islanders being
cannibals were thus horribly confirmed by an eyewitness, who had
seen the monsters roast and eat the flesh of their shipmates, whose
sculls were at that moment hanging up as trophies or ornaments at
the doors of the several chiefs, their longing for revenge overleaped
all bounds, and became entirely irresistible. They seemed to be roused
to a state of desperate phrensy, in the ebullition of which subordination
and discipline were in danger of being lost in a momentary forgetful-
ness. The unusual cry of " To arms ! to arms !" resounded fore and
aft, and was re-echoed from stem to stern. " Let us every man to the
island at once, and avenge the cruel fate of our unfortunate shipmates,'"
exclaimed one of the crew. " Spare not a single being that wears the
features of that accursed race," cried another. " We will swear to
each other," shouted a third, " either to perish to a man, or depopu-
iate this hellish group of islands."

Thus whetting the edge of each other's passion, they were soon
wrought up to a pitch bordering on phrensy and infuriated madness ;
and it was with the greatest difficulty that I could prevent upwards of
eighty men taking my boats and landing on the island where their
shipmates had been slaughtered, roasted, and eaten. The leading
men who urged to this desperate step were the American and English,
sailors ; and the others were not only ready, but eager to follow them.
At length, however, I succeeded in quieting them, by mild and gentle
reasoning; which I have ever foimd to be more efficacious with men.
of true genuine courage, than rash and violent measures.

The first burst of excitement having now in some measure sub-
sided, and the deck of the Antarctic become quiet, all hands were
promptly put to their several respective duties : some in tricing up the
boarding nettings, others in clearing the decks, and landing the frame
of a house on a small uninhabited island about two cables' length from
the vessel ; while the remainder were employed in mooring the An-
tarctic, and putting the arms in complete order. i

After getting the boarding-nettings triced up, fifteen feet above the
rail, fore and aft, the frame landed, and every thing in order, at five,
P. M., the music was got on deck, all hands were piped to mischiefii
and for five hours, until ten, P. M., there was great rejoicing among
the crew, on account of the recover^' of their shipmate, Leonard
Shaw, from his horrible state of slavery. During the greater part of
this time I was on the fore-topmast cross-trees, with my spyglass,
watching the movements of the natives.

Scptejnher 1 5th. — On the following morning we had several communi-
cations with the smarting subjects of our sunimar)- chastisement, who
appeared to be much humbled and cooled by the lesson they had re-
ceived. They pretended to be convinced of their error, and en-
deavoured to lull us into a fatal security by professions of future
friendship and good behaviour. Their cunning was deep ; but had

440 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

we sufferctl ourselves to be deceived by it, we should have deserved to
become its victims.

At eleven, A. M., we consummated a negotiation with lleimeen, the
chief of tiie Massacre Island, tlm late tyrannical master of Sh-aw, for
the purchase of the small island on which wc had landed the frame
of our house, prepared at Manilla, and brought out upon deck. The
contract was well understood by both parties, and the transfer duly
made. AVe paid for this island in cutlery, trinkets, &c., according to
the stipulated agreement ; delivering to Henneen the specified number
of axes, hatchets, adzes, chisels, plane-irons, gimlets, spoke-shaves,
knives, scissors, razors, looking-glasses, and beads of different kinds.
^ Mr. Shaw, having acquired some knowledge of their language during
his captivity, acted as interpreter, and explained every thing satis-
factorily to both parties.

At one, P. ^I., we landed seventy men on our newly-purchased
territory, to which we gave the name of Wallace's Island, in honour
of that brave and worthy officer, who fell by the hands of the canni-
bals in th-e massacre of May 28th, while animating his men to defend
tiiemselves like true sons of Neptune. The timber on this island
grows to an extraordinary size ; two trees of which we selected, as
conveniently situated for an important but somewhat novel purpose.
From these trees we cut avv'ay the tops, at the height of forty-five feet
from the ground, the trunks being six feet in diameter near the roots.
We then extended floor-timbers from the branches of one tree to those
of the other, on which we laid a platform, projecting over every way
about six feet, being about twenty-eight feet square. On this platform
we erected a house, or rather a castle, arrow-proof and water-tight,
sufficiently capacious to accommodate fifty men. Here we mounted
four brass swivels, and stationed sixteen of our best men, armed with
muskets, who were to sleep there every night. They entered this
aerial fortress by means of a ladder, which was immediately dra^vn
up after them.

While the requisite number of men were employed in building this
castle, the remainder of the crew were busily engaged in cutting and
clearing away the timber in every direction, within bow-shot of the
edifice, and in raising the frame of a house for curing biche-de-mer.
The castle overlooked the north end of this building, which was one
hundred and fifty feet in length, forty feet wide, and twenty-five feet in
height. Eighty-two men after the first day were on shore every day,
diligently labouring, until the castle and house were completed. The
'*' trees were cleared away for about two hundred yards back from the
castle and curing-house ; so that in case of an attack from the natives,
we might have an open field and a fair fight for it. These buildings
were situated near the shore, about ten yards from high-water mark,
directly abreast of the Antarctic. The object of the castle wa« of
V* ^ course to protect the curing-house and the men at work in and
^around it.
"' September IStk. — We continued our operations without molestation
until Saturday, the 18th, when the castle was finished; and at six,
P. M., the swivels were mounted, and the place garrisoned with sixteen

Sept.] SHAW'S SUFFERIN-GS. 44 1

of our best men, amply supplied with muskets, ammunition, &c.,
together with provisions and water for one month, in case of its being-
besieged by the natives.

On the following morning, at daylight, I saw on the Massacre
Island about fifty strange canoes, whicli, Mr. Shaw said, belonged to
the other islands ; and that he had never known a canoe to stop one
night from an island on which it belonged during the whole period of
his captivity. He therefore thought that "all was not going on right."
Not altogether liking the aspect of these strange proceedings myself,
the crew were not allowed tc^o on shore to work at daylight, as
usual ; as I thought tlie lives of my men were of more importance
than time. We therefore continued patiently watching the motion of
the natives until eight o'clock.

In the mean time, Mr. Shaw gave me a still more particular history
of the fifteen miserable weeks of his captivity,. which has since been
laid before the public in the form of a pamphlet ; and with this inter-
esting narrative the present chapter shall be concluded.

A Brief Sketch of the Sufferings of Leonard Shaw on Massacre
Island. — " On the 28th of May, 1830, while myself and twenty others
were employed on what Captain Morreil has designated the Massacre
Island, the natives made a determined and too successful attack upon
our little band. Seven of the number made their escape to the vessel,
and the remainino thirteen met with instant destruction.

" Our little party of six was on the bank, or north side of the island,
at work, totally defenceless and unprotected, except by tlie tools in our
hands ; our arms, &c. having been left at the house, a quarter of a
mile distant. Hearing the savage yell of the natives, which still rings
in my ears, and can never be forgotten, we took to the beach, and ran
for life. Here we were immediately surrounded by the negroes,
/rhree of my comrades, nnming the gauntlet, plunged into the water ;
and the rest of us, not being swimmers, tied again upon the beach.
The natives being close in pursuit, my two remaining companions
were soon overtaken and killed upon the spot, by ponderous blows
with the war-club. I alone outstripped their speed, and changing my
course, made directly for the woods.

" Here slackening my pace for breath, the bloodhounds scented
their prey, and soon came upon me. Two who were in advance of
their party commenced discharging their arrows at me, and I had now
no hope of life remaining. However chivalric might have been the
effect of my efforts — however dearly I might have sold ray life, m a
combat for its preservation against the fearful odds of an enraged na-
tion in arms — I could have no hope of final success. Death, in its
most horrid forms, was all about me. Still I clung to life, hopeless
as the case appeared ; and necessity suggested a stratagem to pre-
serve it. Notwithstanding the haste in which I had fled, I had kept
the axe with which I had been at work. I sheltered myself behind a
large tree, and elevated the axe-liandle in the attitude of taking aiai»
with a musket. Knowing the fatal effects of that instrument of death;
my pursuers fled from its aim. Making the best of this momentary

4i2 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

advantage, I quickly penetrated still deeper into the recesses of the
woods, and eluded their pursuit.

*'I had now a little time to recover my breath ; and conceahng my-
self beneath some felled trees, began to reflect upon my perilous
situation, and devise means of escape. I well knew, if I came within
reacli of the war-club I must feel its effects, if not instant death. I
therefore determined to remain in my retreat until night, and then en-
deavour to make my escape to the schooner. 'I'he hours, though few,
passed like ages away, and visions of horror, and hope alternately
clouded and liglitened my heart. AtlRigtli, under the shades of even-
ing, I ventured to the beach in search of the vessel, buoyed up with
the thought that I had eluded tlie grasp of the foe, and should soon re-
gain the schooner to relate the tale of those who had perished. But
she had gone !

"Despair at disappointment so unexpected unmanned me for a mo-
ment, and I inwardly prayed to Heaven for death. My feelings at
this crisis, let the reader conceive. Cut ofl' from all hope of relief,
nothing to satisfy the cravings of nature but an appeal to the untamed
savage, from whom no relief but death could be hoped, and that death
one of extreme torture ! A momentary thought of self-immolation
flashed on my mind ; but reason returned, forcing upon me the recollec-
tion that the Almighty had set his canons against scJf-murdcr ; and the
fear of something after death made me relent ; and I finally resolved,
come weal or wo, to surrender myself up to the natives.

" Thus determined, I bent my steps towards them, with wo in my
heart and death in my thoughts. As I approached, I found a large
party assembled, and preparations made for a supper. Advancing
close enough to observe every motion, my blood curdled as I looked
upon the horrid spectacle, and beheld my murdered friends roasting for
the feast ! I remained in the neighbourhood two or three hours, riveted,
as it were, to the spot. My heart bled for the poor fellows ; for,
though accustomed to the storms and dangers of the ocean, its sensi-
bilities were too delicate to contemplate unmoved a scene like this.
The revolting thought that a similar fate awaited myself when in their
power changed my previous resolves, and turned my footsteps again
to the Moods. I summoned all my firmness, and deliberately made up
my mind to starve in my hiding-place, rather than trust to the lenity
of such ruthless monsters.

" The dread of suffering M'hat I had seen kept me in my retreat four
days and nights, when the calls of hunger forced me out in search of
food. After some time I procured three yoimg cocoanuts, containing
little else than water and shell ; and subsisted upon these and the refresh-
ing showers of Heaven until the fifteenth day after the massacre. The
weather upon these islands is continually changing, like the April season
of our own country ; alternate sunshine and showers. My hiding-place,
though it sheltered me from the first, exposed me to the latter, and I
was, during this time, literally dripping wet. On the morning of the
fifteenth day, after cautiously looking to ascertain the safety of the
♦^ measure, I stretched myself in the sun to dry. This, indeed, was ci
luxury to me ; but alas f how brief.

Sept.] SHAW'S SUFFERINGS. 443

*' I had not been there long before an Indian came upon me, recog-
nised me, fled, and gave an alarm. I followed him to the beach, intend-
ing to give myself up and supplicate for mercy. On the beach I met
a party of the natives, who had collected at the shout of ray discoverer.
I fell down on my knees before them, and with tears of anguish stream-
ing from my eyes, entreated them to spare my life. The chief of the
party approached, and the others, seeing that I made no resistance,
dropped their bows. I did think, for a moment, that mercy was not
entirely unknown among them ; but the precious thought had hardly
passed, when one of the stoutest chieftains gave me a blow on the back
of the head with a war-club, and I knew no more !

" In the afternoon, six or seven hours, as near as I could judge, after
the wound was inflicted, my scattered senses began to return. I raised
my hand to the back of my head, and found my scull was broken to
the extent of two or three inches each way. I was faint from loss of
blood — disconnected images floated before my imagination — and the
most exquisite pains darted through all my limbs. Turning and rais-
ing myself a little, I uttered an imprecation upon the barbarians, and
prayed to God for deliverance in death ; and as my sight returned, my
vacant eye rested upon a chieftain before unobserved. On my knees,
Avith uplifted hands, I implored his friendship, and begged him to inter-
cede for mercy in my behalf. I gave him to understand, as well as I
could, that I would live with him and serve him as a slave for ever, if he
would save me from the vengeance of his clan. He gave some
slight signs of assent, and bade me follow him. Rousing all my en-
ergies, I stood upon my feet once more and obeyed. After I had been
at his house a short time, he filled my wound with warm water, and
compelled me to keep my head in a position to prevent its running out,
luitil it had cooled, when the same operation was repeated ; and after
this was poured out, the wound was filled with sand, and I was placed
in a hut by myself, and mercifully suffered to remain undisturbed until
the next morning.

" At early dawn I was called up, stripped of all my apparel, and set
to work. AH the iron and tools plundered from the workshop were
produced, and I commenced the manufacture of knives. Being better
acquainted with the duties of a son of Neptune than of Vulcan, my
progress was slow, and my productions not remarkably well finished ;
but I did the best I could. I followed this occupation five or six days,
and was delighted even in such a relief from their barbarities ; so much
so, indeed, that I almost forgot my wound, to which no applications
had been administered but those I have mentioned. The younger
natives, however, gave me a call occasionally, to pass away the time in
tormenting me with their gibes and jeers, and irritating and worrying
my patience in every imaginable way. But fiendlike as appeared these
amusing freaks of the younger savages, they were indeed of service to
a me, inasmuch as they served to strengthen my nerves and enable me to
resist with greater firmness the additional torments which were in store
for me. High as my expectations were raised by the railler)' of these keen

444

MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

though unlettered wits, I seldom suffered on the score of disappoint-
ment. Far different, indeed, were the sufferings I really endured.

" When I had got througii the manufacture of the knives, as if de-
termined to have none of my time misspent, arrangements were made
for me to visit the principal chief of the whole group of islands. His
residence was at an island about five miles distant ; and 1 was com-
pelled to perform the pilgrimage on foot, along the coral reef which
«'onnects all the islands ; barefooted, over rocks and shells, and my
whole body com})letely exposed to the scorching rays of the sun. It
is in vain ibr me to attempt to give even a faint idea of the anguish I
suffered upon tliat burning day.

" Every step I znade left the imprint of my foot in blood upon the
rocks and shells, and I seldom made a step upon that cruel strand that
did not open a new channel for the purple current to flow from my
lacerated feet. How I survived that awful day I cannot tell. Amid
the dreadful terrors with Avhich it visited, me, I gave up all my thoughts
to God, and cried aloud, ' OA, why hast thou forsaken me /' But he had
not forsaken me, for he lovcth xchom he chastencth ; and I was, with
almost superhuman strength, enabled to bear up through my suffer-
ings, and at the latter part of my journey my feelings had become so
c;illous, that I had forgotten all sense of pain, and the whole of my
houghts had flowed into one current — and that current directing my
oul in its purest fervency of prayer to Heaven.

" The king came out and met us on the beach, and I was made to
humble myself before him, and kiss his hands and feet. After some
other trifling ceremonies, which I pass over, those who had me in
custody received certain orders, and v/ere then directed to take me
back the same night. A chill of horror ran through my veins, and cold
drops of sweat started like electricity upon my fevered flesh, as the
import of this order was manifested to my bewildered senses. Now I
prayed to God for death — any death — to save me from the shocking
pain of retracing that rugged path I had trodden, and which was marked
at every step, from one end to the other, with clotted blood from my
feet ; and my feet themselves were so wofully butchered that I had
given up all hopes of using them again for ever I

"With feelings like these to combat, it required a stouter heart than
]nine to resist despair, and I involuntarily surrendered myself up to that
unhappy influence. Thus 1 remained until evening came ; when the
savages, seeing the utter impossibility of my returning any other way,
graciously took me back in a canoe !

'* The next day my poor body presented a spectacle too appalling
for the contemplation of any human heart or eye not used to dwell un-
moved on scenes of the severest suffering — of the most heart-rending
distress. I was covered from head to foot with smarting blisters, the
eflect of exposure to the sun in my dreadful journey of yesterday.

*' In addition to all this, and as if my cup of woes was not full to
overflowing, the younger devils — if I may be excused for calling them
so — commenced an attack upon my beard and whiskers, pulling out
the latter in large bunches ; nor would they desist from their hellish
sport, until I had, in the extreme agony of my soul, implored of them —

Sept.] • SHAWS SUFFERINGS. 445

in cries of such searching misery as to reach even a cannibal's heart
— the humble privilege of being suffered to perform that exquisite act
of torture myself. And at length it was decreed that mercy so far
should be shown me. I wore, at the time I was taken, a very large
pair of whiskers, — long, full, and bushy ; and my beard had grown to
a great length, as I had not shaved since I left the vessel. Every
hair of both these I coolly sat down to extract with my own hands and
a pair of pearl-shells, used as tweezers, rather than submit to the out-
rageous method in which my unhallowed persecutors had sought to
divest me of them. Every twitch witli the tweezers drew tears from
my eyes ; and when the reader recollects the situation I was in, he will
readily imagine that the blood flowed freely as I followed the opera-
tion. Every pull sent a thrill through my frame like the application
of a shower of needles ; and while my eyes were streaming with tears,
thus cruelly wrung from them, my cheeks, and chin, and lips were
clotted with blood. This torture, which I was compelled to inflict
upon myself, or suffer it to be more harshly performed by others, oc-
cupied four days ; and the single act of itself, independent of all my
other suffermgs, was suflicient to make me curse the hour in which I
was born ; and as I sat there in my misery, the most pitiable object
upon which the sun ever shone, I wept in deepest grief my forlorn
condition, as I prayed again and again to a merciful God to take me
from such monsters to himself. .,-..t,?^;^

** But while all this accumulation of monstrosities v/as heaping upon
me, another, not less barbarous, rendered their effect still more severe.
This was hunger ! I lived only upon the gills, and fins, and bones of
fish, after they had passed the table of Henneen^ the chief whose slave
I was ; and my allowance of these being insufiicient for subsistence, I
had pined away to a mere skeleton. Ascertaining that the rats upon
the island were feasted and fattened upon the very offals which were
denied to me, for the especial benefit of the chieftains, I set to work
devising a plan to entrap some of these stall-fed luxuries. I had been
given to understand it as a high crime to kill one of them ; neverthe-
less my fortunes were desperate, and I had 110 hesitation in risking
my life one way to save it another. In the darkness of night I en-
trapped many a fat fellow, and feasted upon him in the silence of
my seclusion with more true joy and a sweeter relish than the proudest
monarch ever knew, surrounded by all the pomp and circumstance of
royalty, when banqueting upon the choicest viands of the world. The
rats alone saved me from death by starvation : and as an expression
of my gratitude, I freely confess that I have revolted from that portion
of the human family who have declared a war of extermination against
their degraded race. I testify to the virtues of the species — I have
tasted it.

" During my captivity, and amid all my distresses, I was subjected
to perform the offices of the most degraded slave. I was a Acre
* hewer of wood and drawer of water' to the meanest of their clan, and
a standing mark for the ridicule and ribaldry of all around me. And
it was under these circumstances that I employed every hour of leisure
I could steal in cleansing mv sorrv wound of the sand with which it

446 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

had been filled. Some limc after ii began to heal, a piece of the scull
bone came out about two inches in length, and a quarter of an inch in
breadth. I took out the sand gradually with my hands, and held my
Jicad in a position to catch water in the wound as it rained, to aid me
in cleansingr it. In this wav I ^ot rid of it all in about three weeks,
with the exception of a stone about the size of a buckshot, which had
forced its way down into the hollow of my neck. This caused me
much pain and irritation, and took me, off and on, all of two days to
get out. In these operations I had no instruments to assist me ; my
fingers alone did the work, and to these the sense of feeling was of
course the only guide.

" In this way I ' lived, and moved, and had my being' until about a
■week befoi'e the Antarctic returned ; a day on which ii had been pro-
mulgated that I should be killed and roasted for a feast, at sunrise.
At davlight I was called forth for the sacrifice, and taken to that fatal
part of the island, on the south side, which had already been moist-
ened by the blood of my friends, over whose roasted carcasses the in-
human monsters had rent the air with their shouts of fiendish mirth.
All the dread labours of preparation were upon my shoulders — the wood
for the fire, the water, fruhs, <fcc., necessary to complete the feasts
•were brought by my hands ; and all the minute and degrading arrange-
ments for the immolation were made by the victim liimself. These
being completed, the axe — that very instrument at which their coward
hearts quailed in the woods — was pointed out to me, and I ordered to
sil down by the side of it, and assured that that was to wind up my
career as soon as the chief king arrived. As I was prepared for my
fate, I received this amiunciation with calmness and fortitude, and
awaited the happy moment of death with impatience.

" In this condition of things, before the appointed hour of sacrifice,
I gave myself up to reflection. Memory for a short time was busy
with the past, the present, and the future. The vast ocean was passed ;
and, like a ray of light, I was wafted to the joyous little group upon
the school-house steps of my far ofl' home. Recollection ran through
the scenes of earlier life, and brought up afresh the innocent gambols
of childhood and youth, when arrayed in smiles of contentment and
peace. I looked on this picture of beauty with delight ; but as I gazed,
it faded away, and memory came back to my desolate slate, as a shout
from the chieftains restored my senses to the business before us. It
was noon, and a messenger brought information that the king was not
pleased to attend on that day, and that I, for the present, must be dis-
charged and sent home.

'• I camiot say but I was disappomted once in regard to their cruel-
ties, but I do say I thought the disappointment more cruel than the
reality could possibly have been, as the latter would have ended all
my woes ; whereas, if I lived, I knew I must be subject to their con-
tinuance. And it was so. I lived in continual torment from that time
up to the very hour the vessel arrived.

" After an absence of one hundred and eight days, the Antarctic hove
in eight on the 13:h of September. The natives first discovered her
as she peered in beauty beyond the coral reef, and flew to my hut with

Sepu] t»iiW S SUFFERINGS. 447

the news. ' This I apprehended would be the iiguhl ibr wj deattb, and
1 endeavoured to confrinee diem that the Tessel in sight was not the
one to which I bel<Higed ; hot they were hardly to be convinced that it
was possible for another vessel to have diseovered them iSi so short a
time. I drew two figures in the sand, one of whiidi I represoited as
the Antarctic boimd on her ooorse from the island, and tl^ other as the
one now coming in, and of which I had no knowle^;e ; hot my labonr
was in vain, for they persisted in their belief, and woold not be con-
vinced to the conoury-

** The schooner did not come in that night, bnt anchored off at a dif»-
tance. T\' :. . e lay thne tlie emotions that came and wem over m j
lieart both pleasant and painftij^ It was deligfatfol, after all I

had i: ^ne, to feel my hopes of release l»ightened up even by the

jHrecafi. h^nce of escape which the arrival of the schoaneir pfe-
sented : ? tnter impossibility of canyrTtg- t^meh a measure imo ex-

ecutic jver the prospect, ar.d I myself down again in

sadne- - . . lef. Thus I passed die night, in fitful dreams ol hope

and d — changing with such r^idity that it was a matter of doiibt

to r. : .he deepest impr«sion.

I fig adl was bustle and preparaticm — canoes came

? islands of the groiqi, crowded with warriors —
;. - ^iw ^1 -u:. - 'iproar and confiisionf reigned aroimd — and

happily, my pc entirely neglected and forgotten. Five or

six hundred Wc. .. : cs, cm the reel^ &c., ocMnmoieed a ftnious

attack upcm the - r, as if they intended to demolish her at a sin^

blow; but the well-directed efforts of her commander soon repulsed'
them, and they returned in disorder, and raving like lions.

"■ The captain— how fortunate for me !— commenced a regular ean-
iHMiade iip(m the island ; wlucb, d^^roying their houses and hves indb-
criminately, excited great constematifm amcmg them, and led to the
measme flf sending me to sue for a parley. This having be^i decided
upon, I was brou^t forth, and desired by the queen to go off and stop
the * booing,^ as she termed the thimder of the cannon. Fearing a
shower of arrows would be sent after me, I hesitated and expressed
my fears as plainly as possible, ai; ! H . my master, was sent for,

and desired to seiulme <m boE~^ IT ' ulu. not like to trust me out of
his reach, but 1 gave him to tui^it^is ' :^tat I would go on board and
stop the ' booing,' and come immedi^. .._ jack. And in (Hder to assist
his patriotism in sending me away to save his country from destruc-
tion, I made him believe I would on no account undertake the mission
nnless he would consent to my returning to live with him the rest of my
life. This bait took admirably, and he assmred me that if I returned I
should be for ever safe from harm, and the object of his especial care.

** I now began to feel my consequence a little. I stood between my
friends and enemies, in a most conspicuous light. To my charge was
committed the diplomatic functions of a powerful nation, and I started
off to accomplish the object of my mission. Conceiving myself as yet
hardly secure from their treachery, after padd li ng fifty yards, I returned
and made my master repeat all his promises and professions, and then
embarked in good earnest, with the l*3agest and strongest pulls I conU

448 MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

make for the schooner. When I got beyond the reach of the aavages,
some imperceptible power seemed to give new strength to my arms
and a mighty impulse to my frail bark — the little oar felt like a feather
ill mv grasp, and the canoe ' walked the water like a thing of life.'

"The fire from the Antarctic immediately ceased as the canoe came
off from llio^shore, and I made directly for the vessel. My form was
emaciated and wasted to such a degree, and so defaced with paint of
various colours, and my face so completely changed, from the loss of
my huge whiskers, that no one on board the schooner could possibly
recognise me ^yithout hearing my voice. When I had arrived within
.speaking distance, the captain hailed, 'Who's there?' — 'Old Shaw,
come back again !' was my reply, as I looked on the goal 1 pursued
with a heart full of joy to the brim. I soon came alongside, where I
received a suit of clothes, put them on, and mounted once more the
bright deck of the Antarctic.

"And what a scene was here ! — the captain and his good lady clung
round my neck and wept for joy ; and all the crew received me with a
welcome so generous, so cordial, and affectionate, that all my woes
were for the time forgotten, — and the scene, the occasion, and the
bliss are so engraven upon my memory, that they can only be effaced
when the last spark of life is extinct.

" The whole of these islands are under the absolute sway of a single
chief. Each of the separate islands has a subordinate chief, with
many others dependent on him. I could discover among them no trace
of religion — no appearance of any thing like a reverence for a superior
power. The chiefs indulge in polygamy, but the generality of the men
have but one wife. The women are reserved and chaste, their hus-
bands killing them without any scruples on the least suspicion of infi-
delity. As I saw but few children during my captivity, it is ray im-
pression they kill them all except those of the chiefs. Their huts are
simple, and constructed of bamboo, and covered with cocoanut leaves."

CHAPTER IX.

Massacre Islands — More Treachery — Wallace's Island invaded — The Castle at-
tacked — The Assailants defeated — Henneen slain — Massacre Island evacuated
by the Natives — The Antarctic's Crew land — Interxnent of the Martyrs' Sculls —
Holmes's narrow Escape — The Enterprise abandoned — Sail for Bouka Island —
St. George's Channel — New-Ireland — The Natives — Fertility and natural
Riches of the Country— New-Britain — Dampier's Island.

The suspicious movements alluded to in the last chapter continued
to engage our attention until eight A. M., when Henneen, the chief of
the Massacre Island, came off to the edge of the reef, to offer us some
fruit, which he had been in the habit of doing four or five times every
<3ay, since our purchase of Wallace's Island ; and we had always sent

Sept.] WALLACE'S ISLAND— MORE TREACHERY. 44^

a boat in, to receive his fruit, and pay him for it. Suspecting some
treachery, however, on the present occasion, I would allow no boat to
meet him. He remained there, holding his fruit up to view, for about
a quarter of an hour ; when, finding no preparations on foot to meet
him, he started for Wallace's Island.

This circumstance surprised us not a little, as not one of the natives
had landed on that island since we first took possession of it. In the
next moment, to our utter astonishment, we saw about one hundred
canoes put off from the back, side of the Massacre Island, and all
steering for Wallace's Island, in order of battle. Their object was now
too manifest to be mistaken, and we took our measures accordingly.
The guns of the Antarctic were immediately run out ; and without the
least noise, our preparations were in a moment completed.

Henneen was the first to reach the island and the first to land, which
he did on the beach directly in front of the castle. The instant his
foot had touched the sand, he gave the horrid warhoop ; and the
echoes of the infernal yell were sti]l busy, when, with an answering
shout, out darted from the thicket in rear of the castle two hundred
painted devils, armed with bows and war-clubs ! These must have
secreted themselves there the night before, unperceived by our look-out
at the castle, which was now about to be assailed on two sides at once,
in front and rear. When the assailants had advanced to within one
hundred and fifty yards of their object, they opened upon it with their
archery, and showers of arrows rattled on its roof and sides like a squall
of hail. They still advanced, and still discharged their arrows, with
deafening yells, and looks of desperate ferocity, till within fifteen yards
of the yet silent batter}', in the sides and roof of wliich were now stick-
inor about three thousand arrows.

Obedient to previous orders, in anticipation of such an emergency,
our men in the garrison were careful not to waste their ammunition,
but waited for the savages to come to close quarters, some of them being
within forty feet before a gun was fired from the fortress. The swivels
and muskets then spoke to some purpose ; while the Antarctic opened
her larboard battery>Dn the canoes, which were all between her and
the now blazing castle. The savages had not anticipated such a ter-
rific reaction ; desperate as they were, they could not stand the fury
of the shock ; but hastily gathered up their wounded, and part of the
killed, and made a precipitate and disorderly retreat, leaving many of
their war-implements scattered about the field.

The roar of our cannon, echoed and re-echoed as it was from every
island in tlve group, evidently terrified the savages more than the mys-
terious fall of their companions. Unlike their arrows, our messengers
of death were invisible — " unseen, but felt," and their fatal effect was
naturally attributed to the awful bellowing of the blazing engines,
instead of their contents ; as some people tremble at a peal of thunder,
who are unmoved by the lightning's flash. They considered themselves
in danger so long as they could hear the sound of our guns; which, it
being perfectly calm, fairly made the forests tremble, as it reverberated
through the islands, and died away among the distant coral reefs
Great numbers of them took the water, like terrified seals, and sought

<^'5^ MASSACRE ISLANDS. [1830.

for safety by plunging beneath its glassy bosom, leaving their canoes to
the management of one or two men in each, who happened to be gifted
with stronger nerves. As self-defence was our sole object, we of
course had no motive for molesting or retarding t'leir retreat, but wished
them " God-speed," from the heart.

Our attention was now attracted by a display of the American flag
from one of the posts of the eitadel, bristling with arrows as thickly
planted as they could stick. This symbol of triumph was hailed with
tliree hearty cheers from the Antarctic, which was instantly responded
to by our brave lads of the " castle in the air," while their drummer
and lifer struck up the cheering national air of Yankee Doodle. After
which, in honour of the brave British tars, comprising a respectable
portion of our crew, they played ^^ Rule Britannia.''''

Our boats were now immediately lowered, and all hands, with the
exception of the boatswain, gunner, and the first officer, landed on
Wallace's Island. Here, on the beautiful garden-spot we had cleared,
-instead of tender plants and flowers, springing from the virgin soil, we
found horrid vestiges of the recent conflict ; the ground being covered
Avith the crimson clotted blood of these obstinate, infuriated savages.
They had dearly atoned for their treachery ; the manes of our massa-
cred friends were surely appeased — for their deaths had been fearfully
.avenged ! But revenge was not our object ; this bloody business was
■i^ot of our seeking. Two men only were woimdcd on our part, by
arrows which penetrated the ports. Their names were George Burns
and William Hughes ; both English seamen.

Vv^e now turned-to, and made up for losl time, in finishing our
curing-house, and clearing away the forest still farther back, in rear
of the castle. Burns and Hughes were taken on board the Antarctic,
where their wounds were dressed ; one of them being wounded in the
head and the other in the leg. Neither of their wounds, however, was
xiangerous, and in a few days they both returned to their duty.

■September 19///. — On Sunday, tlie 19th of September, at eight, A. M.,
•that archfiend of treachery Hcnnecn, chief of the Massacre Island,
- came oft'aoain to the edse of the reef, as he had done the morning before,
-previous to the attack ; and with his usual pretensions of friendsliip,
oirered us fruit, calling for Shaw to come with the boat and meet him.
The small boat was accordingly sent in, well armed (a precaution
which we had never taken before), witli orders to shoolhim if it should
appear that he meditated treachery. Our boat pulled in close along-
side of this reckless villain's canoe, where was seen his bow lying
across her, with a bearded arrow fixed to the string, ready to be dis-
charged in a moment. In the next instant he seized it, and was in
the act of taking a deadly aim at the cockswain in our boat, wlien the
latter raised his piece, and put a sudden stop to the career of this
unprincipled wretch ; by which act he doubtless saved his own life
and that of his companions.

In his hurry and anxiety to pull the trigger before the twanging of
the bowstring, the cockswain's aim was not so exact as he intended.
The wound was mortal, but not instantly so. Simultaneously with
lihe flash of the musket, a fleet of canoes put oflf from the Massacre

Oct.] HEXXEEN SLAIN— HOLMES'S ESCAPE. 45 1

Island^ which was not more than two hundred yards' distance, to pro-
tect their chief. In the confusion of this critical moment, the men in our '
small boat lost one of their oars, wliich occasioned them so much em-
barrassment as induced us to send in the two large boats, armed with
swivels and musketry, to protect the yawl. A smart engagement
ensued, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, when the savages
were driven back to their island, but not without the body of Henneen,
who breathed out his treacherous soul before they reached the beach.

The death of their chief spread such terror and dismay among the
savages of the Massacre Island, that the inhabitants all precipitately
fled from the place ; so that by two, P. M., not a man, woman, or
child was to be found upon it, but all had sought refuge on some others
of the group. All hands were immediately broke off* from their work,
and landed on the evacuated island, where we found the sculls of five
of our unfortunate crew, hanging at the door of Henneen's residence,
as trophies of his too successful treachery and barbarity. The remain-
der of the afternoon was devoted to the melancholy ceremony of burying
them, which was performed with all due solemnity ; the colours of the
Antarctic being at half-mast, mmute guns fired, and a dirge or death-
march played to and from the place of interment.

September 2St/t. — On Monday, the 28th, our building on Wallace's
Island was completed ; when we commenced collecting and curing
biche-de-mer ; and had it not been for the continual attempts of the
natives to attack our boats and harass the men engaged in collecting
this valuable article from the coral reefs, we should have succeeded
in procuring a very handsome cargo in. the course of a few months.
Under such disadvantages, we continued our operations, perpetually
assailed and harassed by the natives, day and night, without any
intermission, or any indications on their part of a desire to come upon
terms of amity with us again. '

October 2Sth. — On Tliursday, the 28th of October, we found that
the natives were once more lying in ambush for our men. At four»
P. M., one of the crew, Thomas Holmes, being on shore at the Massacre
Island, filling some water-casks from a spring, was suddenly surprised
by fifteen of the natives, all of whom instantly aimed their pointed
arrows at his breast. At the same moment^ Holmes presented his
musket, which caused them all to drop down upon their haunches.
Perceiving that this manoeuvre produced the desired effect, he held his
fire, slowly retreating backwards towards the shore, with his piece
still ready for an aim. The natives continued to follow him, and
several times attempted to discharge a volley of arrows ; but he as
often presented his piece, which invariably caused them to squat upon
the ground.

In this manner Holmes continued manoeuvring, without discharging
his piece, or giving them an opportunity of notching their arrows, until
he reached the edge of the beach ; when, fearful of his eluding them
entirely, and eff*ecting his escape, they made a furious rush upon him,
which compelled him to pull the trigger, and their leader fell, just as
he was on the point of discharging an arrow. This was the brother
of the treacherous Henueen, whose death he was thus seeking to

Ff3

452 LEAVE MASSACRE ISLANDS— BOUKA ISLAND. [1830^

avenge. A buckshot entered his heart, and two others, uho were
Avouiuled by the same discharge, fell to the ground. Our gallant tar
then retreated as fast as possible ; but before he had got beyond bow-
shot distance, he found that the remaining twelve were aiming their
arrows at his body ; upon which he again presented his musket, which
produced the same eftect as before ; and before they could recover
themselves he was beyond the reach of their arrows, being taken up
by a boat sent to his assistance from AVallace's Island. Had he dis-
charged his musket when first surprised at the spring in the forest, he
must inevitably have fallen a prey to those ferocious cannibals. His
presence of mind was fortunately equal to the emergency, and the
Antarctic was not deprived of the services of this brave British seaman.

We now gave up all hopes of procuring a cargo of hiche-de-rner at
this group of islands, on account of the unappeaseable vindictiveness
and incessant hostilities of the natives, combined with our scarcity of
provisions. We therefore took on board what we had collected and
cured, which was about two hundred piculs ; a picul being 133J lbs.
avoirdupois. We then set lire to our houses, and bade a final adieu
to this inhospitable race of islanders.

November SJ. — This was on Wednesday, the 3d of November, 1830 ;
when, at four, P. M., we took our leave of the Massacre Islands,
which had caused me so many anxious days and sleepless nights,
with the loss of thirteen of my brave crew, butchered without pro-
vocation or suspicion of hostilities. Incidents like these become too
deeply impressed upon the mind ever to be eradicated. We steered
away to the westward, for Bouka Island, lying off the north end of
Bougainville's, with a light breeze from east-south-east, and fair weather.
At six A. M., on the following morning, the north end of Bouka
was in sight, bearing west-half-south, distant five leagues. A light
breeze springing up, we soon gained the north coast of the island,
where we were visited by many of the natives, who showed the same
treacherous and warlike disposition as the savages of the Massacre
Islands. Their personal appearance, character, manners, habits, and
customs, as well as their war implements and fishing utensils, are
similar in every respect ; but their canoes are much larger, and go
very swift with the paddles, when they have their full complement of
men on board, which is from fifteen to forty-five, according to tne
size of the canoes.

It is worthy of remark, that between the Massacre Islands and
Bouka we saw many large shoals of sperm-whales, which were feed-
ing, and appeared to be perfectly tame. This, I have no doubt, would
be good whaling ground for fast-sailing ships that are well armed, after
the season is over on the coast of Japan. But they must carefully
avoid all boat communication with the natives, and never send the
boats after a whale while the natives are alongside, or when they are
on the water with three or four canoes, at any considerable distance
from the shore. Their canoes are much swifter than any whale-boat,
and they are ever on the alert to cut off such boats as are beyond
gun-shot from the ship ; which is easily effected when the wind is

]>fov.]

ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL. 453

light, or in one of those calms which are so common in the vicinity
of these islands.

On examining the north and west coast of this island, we found it
bordered with coral reefs, and rich in the articles of hiche-de-mery
pearl-shell, and the hawk's-bill tortoise. Tiie upland parts of the
island produce sandal-Avood, which must be of the best quality, judging
by a specimen I examined in a paddle we procured from one of the
canoes. Having satisfied ourselves on these particulars, we shaped
our course for the south end of New-Ireland, which we reached on
Thursday mornintr, the 4th of November, at five, A. M., when we
were close in whh Cape St. George, in lat. 4^ 48' S., long. 152^ 46' E.

November 4th. — We continued on our passage through St. George's
Channel, which is formed by the west side of New-Ireland and the
east side of New-Britain. This channel or strait has been justly
represented by Captain Carteret as being the most beautiful passage
ever formed by nature. The lofty hills on each side, which appear to
tower above the clouds, are covered to their very summits with forests
of gigantic growth. These mighty eminences, in their gradual descent
towards the shores, gently decline into an undulating surface of plains
and valleys, swelling mounds, level lawns, and meadows of the deep-
est green. These are intersected with cr\-stal streams, and inter-
spersed with groves of the richest foliage ; fruits, flowers, plants, and
herbs, besides many highly valuable drugs and minerals. Among the
vegetable productions of larger growth is the sandal-wood ; which, as
if conscious of its innate worth, is only found in the most elevated
fiituations, where it grows spontaneously. The less aspiring ebony is
content with an humbler station, where it is surrounded by many
valuable die-woods, and woods of various kinds suitable for fine cabinet-
work.

But the richest production of these two islands, New-Britain and
New-Ireland, is the nutmeg-tree, which grows spontaneously, to an
immense size, in many parts of the interior.* Were the natives taught

■* The nutmeg-tree (Myristi'-a Mosckata) ia a native of the Moluccas, but has been trans-
planted to Bataria, Sumatra, Penang, &c. An inferior and long-shaped nutmeg is common in
Borneo; the tree is also rnet with in Cochin China and New-Holland; but the fruit nowhere
attains to the same perfection as in the Moluccas. Of the several varieties of the tree, that denomi-
nated the queen nutmeg, which bears a small round fruit, is the best. The kernel, or proper nut-
meg, is of a roundish oval form, marked on the outside with many vermicular furrows, within of a
fleshy farinaceous substance, variegated whitish and bay. Nutmegs are frequently punctured and
boiled, in order to obtain the essential oil ; the orifice being afterward closed : but the fraud 13 easily
detected by the lightness of the nutmeg.

Nutmegs should be chosen large, round, heavy, and firm, of a lightish gray colour on the outside,
and the inside beautifully marbled ; of a strong fragrant smell, warm aromatic taste, and a fat oily
body. They are very sijhject to be worm-eaten. The best manner of packing them is in dry
chunam. The oblong kind, and the smaller ones, should be rejected.

The dried produce of a nutmeg-tree consists of nutmeg, mace, and shell. Supposing the whole
produce to be divided into one hundred parts, there arc 131 of mace. 33^ of shell, and 53 j of nutmeg.
In the ancient commerce, and down to the establishment of the Dutch monopoly, nutmegs were
always sold and e.\j>ortcd in the shell. The natives, whenever the commerce is left to their maa-
agement, continue the practice, which is stronsly recommended by Mr. Crawfurd.

The jealous and miserable policy of the Dutch has reduced the trade in nutmegs to a mere trifle,
compared to what it would otherwise have been. They have, in so far at least as it was possible,
exerted themselves to exterminate the nutmeg plants everywhere except in Banda. They bribe the
native princes of the surrounding islands to root out the trees : and annually send a fleet to see that
the work of destruftion has been eflfected, and that the bribes have not been bestowed in vain. To
engage in an illicit trade in spices is death to an inferior person, and banishment to a noble ; and
yet, notwithstanding the.se tremendous penalties, it is supposed that about 60,000 lbs. of nutmegs,
and 15.000 lbs. of ir.ace, are clandestinely exported each year ' In Banda the aboriginal inhabitant*
have been e.ipatrriied, and the island parcelled among settlers from Holland, under the uame of

454*^ NEW-IRELAXD. - [1830^

to transplant tliis tree and cultivate it properly, they could soon sup-
ply any demand which might be made for its fruit. The population
of these islands is small, but the inhabitants appear to be intelligent ;
and were they to introduce the pepper and coffee plants, I have not
the least doubt that long before another century elapses, they would
become the richest islands of the eastern world. The climate and
soil are unequalled in excellence, and admirably adapted to each
other.

But independent of the natural riches of the land, the waters around
these islands are also tributary to their aggregate wealth ; tjie richest
treasures of the deep abound on their shores. The bicke-de-mer
resorts to their coral reefs in immense numbers ; the pearl-oyster,
equal in quality to that of the Socloo sea, is found in moderate depths
of water ; and the hawk's-bill tortoise, yielding the most valuable shell
ever imported from India, frequents the beaches in thousands. The
red coral is also found here ; and ambergris, the richest production of
the ocean, is washed up from the bottom of the sea, and landed on
many parts of these islands, as well as on others of far less magni-
tude, which lie in their immediate vicinity.

In th€ course of the day we hove-to several times, to permit the
canoes from New-Ireland to come alongside with their cocoanuts,
plantains, bananas, yams, and fowls, which we purchased for small
pieces of iron hoop, and a few China beads. These people are of a
dark copper colour, bordering a little on the negro black. They are
of the common stature, wath round bodies closely built,- and a full
share of muscular energy. Their heads are well formed, with high
smooth foreheads ainl black curled hair, which is longer and softer
than that of the natives of Madagascar. Their countenances are
generally intelligent, and expressive of considerable mental capacity.
Their eyes are black and penetrating, the nose well formed, lips
moderately thick, parting sufficiently to exhibit a fine set of white
teeth, and their limbs are well proportioned for strength and activity.

Their canoes are formed in the same manner as those of Monte-
verdeson's, but are much larger ; some of them being from eighty to
ninety feet in length, and carrying from seventy to eighty men each.
These are their war-canoes, they having smaller ones for fishing and

Tparli keepers. These persons, who may be turned out of their farn>s on the most trifling pretext,
have about 2000 slaves, who cultivate and prepare the nutmegs. The prices paid to the cultivator
are all fixed by government ; and it deserves to be mentioned, as afTordingone of the most striking
illustrations of the ruinous effects of monopoly, that the tixed price which the government is now
obliged to pay for nutmegs is five times greater than the price at which they bought them wheii
the trade was free ! Such is a rough outline of that monstrous system, which has reduced what
used to be one of the most important branches of Eastern commerce so low, that it is unable to
afford employment for the capital of a single wealthy merchant. We cannot conceive how so
enlightened and libersd a government as that of Holland should continue to tolerate such scandalous
abuses ; abuses destructive ahke of the rights of those subjected to its authority in the East, and
the commerce and wealth of its subjects at home.

The Banda Islands, at a fair estimate, produce annually about 640,000 lbs. of nutmegs, and
360,000 lbs. of mace. During the period that the English had possession of the Spice Islands,
nutmeg plants were carried to Peuang, BencocIcTi, and sonse of the West India islands. In the
latter they have altogether failetl, at least as far as respects any useful purpose ; but very good
nutmegs, and in considerable quantities, are now raised at Pcnaiig and Bencoolen The mace is a
thin, fiat, membranous substance, enveloping the nutmeg ; of a lively reddi.sh yellow, saffron-like
colour, a jileasant aromatic smell, and a warm, biltensh, pungent taste. Mace shouJd be chosen
Iresh, tough, oleaginou.«, of an extremely fragrant sinell, and a bright reddi.sh yellow colour— the
brighter the belter. The smaHer pieces are esteemed the best. The best mode of packing is in
bales, pressed close and firm, which preserves its fragrance and consistence.

Nov.] NEW-IRELAND— NE W.BRITAIN. ' 455

Other ordinary purposes, like those of the Massacre Islands. All of
them are filled with out-riggers, like those of Bergh's Group, being-
made of the like materials. Their war-canoes are very swift ; but
they seldom use sails. The dress of these natives (I mean such as
are married, for all others go entirely naked) consists simply of a
small tapper, about eighteen inches wide, woven from the fibres'of the
cocoanut-tree bark, which they wear around the hips. Their fishing-
gear is made of the same materials as their dress, and very inge-
niously manufactured. The bow and arrow are seldom used by this-
people ; their principal weapons being the spear, the war-club, and the
sling. With the first and last they are highly expert, and exercise-
them with a great deal of dexterity.

We had frequent communications with the natives of New-Ireland ;
we also landed on some uninhabited parts of their coast, and pene-
trated into the forests for a considerable distance. In these rambles
we saw a great variety of birds, some of exquisite song, and others
of beautiful plumage — seldom both combined ; but they were all per-
fectly tame. A very extensive and highly valuable collection of speci-
mens might be made on this island by a practical ornithologist, with—
out much labour or difficulty. Of quadrupeds we saw none but hogs-
and dogs, the most of which were running wild. We met with several-
different kinds of serpents, but none that are common to our country.-
Insects cannot be very numerous, as we saw but few.

Wood, water, and fruit of the best quality may be obtained with
ease at any of the harbours on the west side of the island ; and it^
some of the ports you may purchase hogs and poultry at your own
price. The waters are teeming with fish of the greatest variety and
the most delicate flavour ; all of which are easily caught. Nature, in
fact, seems to have lavished her favours on these islands in the greatest
profusion, every thing growing spontaneously ; the hogs and the bird*
being the principal agriculturists — the former breaking the surface of
the soil, and the latter dropping in such undigested seeds as may have
been taken into their bodies with their food. The natives neither
plough nor dig. Their bread grows upon trees in abundance, and
their drink is the delicious milk of the cocoanut. They live like those
of the golden age, which poets dream of, when

" The yet free earth did, of her own accord,
Untorn with ploughs, all sorts of fruits afford."

" WheR rivers ran with streams of milk, and honey dropped from trees,
• While earth unto the husbandman gave voluntary fees.''

Nvvemhcr 6th. — On Saturday, the 6th, we steered for the north
cape of New-Britain, with a fine breeze from south-east, and fair
weather. At four, A. M., we passed Cape Stephen's, within two miles
of the shore, and hauled immediately in to the south, to examine the north
shore of New-Britain. While cruising along this coast, which is in-
dented with numerous deep bays and spacious harbours, we were visited
by many of the natives, whose persons, manners, habits, and customs
are very similar to those of New-Ireland ; but their character is much
more savage and hostile. This island is very thinly populated ; but

456 • IJAMPIEK'S ISLAND. [1830.

as respects richness of soil and beauty of appearance, il is every way
equal to its neighbour, on the eastern bide of St. George's Channel.
Its vegetable and animal productions are the same ; but its shores are
much more abundantly supplied with the rich treasures of the deep.
Its coasts are surrounded with many small islands in the offing, and it
is encircled with coral reefs from two to ten miles off-shore, with nar-
row passages between them. This renders the navigation difficult
and dangerous, and demands every precaution from navigators who are
not familiar with these seas.

As the coral reefs, when the weather is clear, show themselves best
at night, we made the most of our distance while the sun "was below
the horizon ; lying-to in the daytime, and holding intercourse with the
natives. Otherwise I should have taken charts of these islands, and
their surrounding reefs and shoals ; which, if appended to this work,
would have rendered it more useful to the nautical reader. Should I
ever again be favoured with the command of a vessel to this part of
the world, I shall make it a point to execute charts of all these islands,
and present the same to the public on my return, for the benefit of
other navigators. In the mean time, I can recommend Arrowsmith's
charts of these seas, as the most correct ef any that have ever yet
been published. Had I kept a journal with a view to publication, a
thing I never contemplated until I returned from my last voyage, when
my friends urged me to the measure, I could perhaps have produced a
volume much more interesting and valuable than the present. As it
is, I hope this humble attempt will be taken as an earnest of my wish
to be useful to my country, and the cause of nautical science.

We continued running alongshore to the west, keeping the main-
land close on board, and having a few little squabbles with the natives,
which no prudence or forbearance on our part could prevent. The
Antarctic set so low in the water, and made so small an appearance
on the surface, that most of the different tribes with whom we fell in,
ignorant of the effects of gunpowder, had an idea that they could take
our vessel with very little trouble. The only method we used to con-
vince them of their error was a little hud speakiiig from the mouths
of our cannon, without any arguments sufficiently heavy or sharp to
break the skin. Finding that the report, without the shot, produced
the desired effect, we were happy to save the latter, and avoid shedding
the blood of this poor ignorant race of men.

November lith. — On Thursday, the 11th, at eight, A. M., we were
close in with Cape Gloster, which is the north-west extremity of New-
Brhain, and the eastern shore of Dampier's Strait, through which blew
a fine breeze from about south-east. We stood to the westward across
the strait, and at eleven, A. M., were close in under the northern shore
of an island of considerable size, that lies nearly in the centre of the
strait, and which I shall call Dampier's Island, in honour of its dis-
coverer; although some navigators have already named it Rook's
Island. We were soon visited by several canoes filled with natives,
who approached the vessel with great caution ; and it was not until
we had showed them some knives and beads that we could persuade
them to come alongside.

Nov.] DAMPIER'S ISLAND. 457

They at length ventured to approach, and appeared to be very much
surprised at all they saw ; the size, shape, and rig of the vessel ; but
above all, the iron of the chain-plates took their fancy, and they ex-
erted all their strength and ingenuity to get it off with their hands.
Having the mortification of failing in these attempts, they next turned
their attention to the anchors on the bows, the chain cables that were
attached to them, and the eye-bolts in the vessel's sides. Finding
€very thing too fast or too hea\y for their purpose, they next attempted
to cut the chain cables with their stone axes, which were made of a
species of jasper. Baffled in all their futile attempts to acquire
property unlawfully, they now condescended to resort to honest traffic,
disposing of their fishing-gear, war implements, a few pearl-shells,
and some tortoise-shell knives and shovels, of very excellent quality.
They also gave us to understand that there was plenty of the pearl-
oysters to be had around these islands, by diving for them ; and to
convince us that the tortoise visited their island, they presented us
with a sufficient quantity of their eggs to fill a bucket, and these had
evidently been gathered but a short time.

These people are like those of New-Britain in their appearance
and manners ; but their war implements are made with much more
neatness, which bespeaks them a warlike people. Their spears
are about sixteen feet in length, handsomely carved and tapered ; one
end of them is ornamented with a bird of paradise, well stuffed and
preserved, which gives them a showy and tasteful appearance. They
are made of a kind of black ebony. Their war-clubs, which are
made of a material resembling tick-wood, are about four and a half
feet long, with a two-edged blade at one end, and the carved head of
a savage at the other, the whole very ingeniously and tastefully exe-
cuted. They are also very expert with the sling, which they use
with great dexterity and exactness.

These natives are tattooed about the body ; and they are the first
that we had seen, since leaving the Massacre Islands, who chew the
betel-nut and chumum. Dampier's Island has a beautiful appearance
from the seaboard, being considerably elevated in the centre, and
running off with a regular and gradual descent towards the sea, at all
points of the compass. The whole stirface of this island, even to its
highest elevation, is covered with one continued forest ; with the ex-
ception of a few yam plantations, which are laid out on the most mod-
erately elevated places. The inhabitants are verj'' numerous, in pro-
portion to the size of the island. Their villages all stand near the
seashore, and are pleasantly shaded by the lofty and majestic cocoa-
nut and bread-fruit trees. From the appearance of these men, I think
that in case a ship should touch at this island, without being well
armed and manned, there would be great danger of her being cut off,
especially if she should come to anchor.

458 NEW-BRITAIN— NEW.GUINE.\, [183a.

CHAPTER X.

New-Britain — New-Guinea — Dekay's Bay — Description of the Natives — Natural
Productions — Birds of Paradise — Requisites for a Voyage thither — Livingston's
Cape — Burning Mountains, with Volcanic Eruptions — Cape Woodbury, and
Woodbury Harbour — Another new Discovery — The Antarctic attacked — The
Natives astonished — Sunday and Monday taken — Return to Manilla — Health
and Fidelity of the Crew — Directions to Ship-masters — Importance of Cleanli-
ness and wholesome Food — Vegetable Acids, &c. ;

According to some navigators, that part of Australasia which is
called New-Britain comprises, not only the island of that name, which
we coasted in the last chapter, but also New-Ireland, New-Hanover,
the Admiralty Islands, and several others of smaller size and inferior
note. Dampier first discovered this archipelago in 1699, and after-
ward ascertained that it was separated from Papua, or New-Guinea ;
and Carteret, nearly seventy years afterward, in 1767, proved that
the island of New-Britain was also cut in twain, by a strait through
which he sailed, and which he named St. George's Channel. A feeble
description of this channel was attempted in the last chapter. That
portion of New-Britain which lies on the eastern side of this delight-
ful passage he called New-Ireland.

The situation of the whole group has never been very accurately
ascertained, and I had little opportunity of throwing any new or addi-
tional light upon the subject. On the most approved charts, however,
the northern limits of these islands are placed about ninety miles
south of the equator, and their southern boundary in latitude 6° 0' south,
while their longitudinal extent is from the meridian of 148° 0' to
153° 0' east.

This group of islands is separated, by Dampier's Strait, from
another island of great magnitude, called Papua, or New-Guinea,
lying to the north of New-Holland, from which it is divided by Torre's
Strait. The island of Papua, or New-Guinea, is as yet but imper-
fectly known ; but as it is generally delineated, it extends from longi-
tude'l30° 0' to 150° 0' east, and from the equator to latitude 10° 0'
south. This geographical extent presents an island of very great
magnitude, stretching fourteen hundred miles from east to west, with
a mean width of at least two hundred miles. In size it is supposed to
surpass Borneo, which lies upon the equator more than twenty de-
grees farther west.

Of all Australasia, it is supposed that some portion of New-Guinea
was the earhest discovered by European navigators. Don Menezes,,
a Portuguese officer, in the year 1526, wintered in a port immediately
north of it, and probably in one of the islands close to it. The Spanish
navigator Saavedra, in the following year, discovered the land of
Papua, or the adjacent islands ; and conjecturing that the country
which he saw abounded in gold, he called it the Isla del Oro. He

Nov.] NEW-GUINEA. 459

found the natives black, with short curled hair, and going entirely
naked. But their civilization, even then, he says, far exceeded that
of the most of the present natives of Australasia ; for they had not
only swords of iron, but other arms of the same metal. *

In the year 1543, Ruy Lopez de Villalobos ranged along the same-
coasts, and being ignorant of the country's having been previously
visited by Europeans, he conferred upon it the name of New-Guinea..
He represents the country as having an invhing appearance ; and he
anchored in several ports, where he obtained wood and water. Sev-
enty-three years afterward this country was visited by two skilful
navigators, Le Maire and Schouten, who anchored in a bay where
two villages stood on the shore, and had different interviews with the
natives, from whom they obtained small quantities of provisions.
They represent the natives as being all afflicted with disease or some
personal defect, such as lameness, blindness, die. " These people,"
say they, " are the true Papoos, with black, short, and curled hair ;
wearing rings in their ears and noses, and necklaces of hogs' tusks ;
a wild, strange, and absurd people, curious to see every thing, and
active as monkeys."

I have introduced the foregoing particulars in this place, because
the reader is now to be informed, that on the 12th of November, at
five, P. M., the Antarctic was on her way to this coast, from Darapiers
Island, sailing at the rate of thirteen miles an hour, on a sea which
was smooth as a mill-pond, rendered so by tlie current that set through
the strait towards the north-west, at the rate of four miles an hour.
At six, P. M. we were within one mile of the north shore of Long-
Island, which is about the same size as the one we had just left, Dam-
pier's Island, but not so much elevated. We saw a few scattering
huts along the banks of the seacoast, and a number of natives about
them, who made signals for the vessel to stop. But the wind coming
off from the land in strong gusts, and wishing to get clear of the
island before dark, we continued on our course to the westward, until
we had cleared the western end of Long Island ; when we imme-
diately hauled in to the south, for the north-east coast of New-Guinea^
or the island of Papua.

I feel it a duty in this place to put mariners on their guard, by
stating that there are many dangerous coral reefs around the two last-
mentioned islands ; some of which extend several miles into the sea.
There is also a dangerous reef running off in a northerly direction
from Cape Gloster, about six miles. The reader has already been
apprized that this cape is the north-west extremity of the island of
New-Britain. In cruising among these islands and seas, the lead and
line are of no use, as all the shoals and reefs are formed of coral,
and rise from the unfathomable depths of tlie ocean, almost as perpen-
dicular as a stone wall. The only safeguard against such dangers-
is a good look-out from the mast-head.

November \1th. — At four, A. M., on the following morning, it being
Friday, the 12th, we were, to appearance, right under the towering-
mountains which distinguish the north-east extremity of th€ island of
New-Guinea, and which seemed to be actually hanging over the deck

460 NEW-GUINEA. [1830

of the Antarctic, although we were, at that time, full five miles from
the land. When daylight appeared, and dispersed the gloomy shades
of night, we found that we -were in front of a very deep and spaciovj^
bay, to Avhich I have given the name of Dekay's Bay, in honour of that
highly distinguished and scientific ornament of the medical profession.
Dr. James E. Dekay, of the city of New- York. The centre of the
entrance to this bay' is in latitude 5^ 39' 8., long. 146° 2' E.

There are many Indian villages around the shores of Dekay's Bay,
and the inhabitants are quite numerous. Many of them came off to
the vessel in several large canoes, with the usual articles of barter,
cocoanuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and shells. They were negroes of
a large stature, and sK)me of them appeared to possess considerable
acuteness. Their features are coarse and ugly, and the expression
of their countenance is a mixture of ferocity, malevolence, and crafty
treachery. In one word, their visage is a true index of their char-
acter, and it bears the most savage, inhuman, bloodthirsty appearance
I have ever met with, the cannibals of the Massacre Islands when
most infuriated not excepted. Their complexion is of the negro
black; hair short, curled, and crisp'; flat nose, thick lips, and monkey
chin. But they have one redeeming feature, and that is the forehead,
which is high, prominent, and smooth, indicating intellectual capacity,
penetration, and decision, in a much greater degree than is ever seen
in the African. Neither have they the bow shin, the flat foot, or the
projecting heel of the negro of the Slave Coast or the Congo River :
but their limbs are generally well proportioned ; being muscular,
strong, and active.

Both sexes go entirely naked (apparently susceptible of no innate
ideas of modesty), with the exception of feather ornaments, on the
head and neck, which distinguish the higher ranks. They are all
warriors, and for desperate acts are equal, I have no doubt, to those
of the Massacre Islands. They use a bow of the same size, about
eight feet in length, with arrows of nearly five feet. Their archery
is superior ; frequently bringing down birds on the wing at the dis-
tance of seventy-five yards. Their canoes are very similar to those
of New-Ireland, but more ingeniously finished, with carved heads and
sterns, which display a great deal of natural taste and genius. Fish-
ing is their principal employment, and their waters abound with gi-eat
varieties of the finny tribes. Their fish-hooks are made of the pearl-
oyster shell, and tortoise-shell. Of the former they gave us to under-
stand there was a great plenty all over the bay ; and the latter come
on shore at night, on all the sand beaches, where they deposite their
eggs, and go to sea again before dayliglit. To convince us of the
excellence of these eggs, some of which they brought with them, they
ate several of them raw, with expressive indications of their being
highly palatable.

We discovered, also, that th^ beautiful bird of paradise was to be
found here in immense numbers, and of a great variety of species ;
as many of the natives had their heads decorated with their feathers,
of the most rich and delicate tints. AVe frequently saw large flocks
of these birds flying from the shores of Papua, to the islands in the

Nov.] PL/^ OF A VESSEL. 461

offing; four or live hundred in a flock, and about five hundred feet
above the surface of tlie water. The flocks of one species will be all
the way chattering like monkeys, while that of another will salute
the ear with notes alx>ut as melodious as those of a flock of wild
geese. There is also a vast diliereiice in the size of these glorious
birds ; some of them being as large as a partridge, while others are
about the size of a sparrow. One which we saw stufi'ed and pre-
served in the most natural mamier, and stuck as an ornament on the
head of a chief, was not larger in the body than a humming-bird,
while its tail-plumes were at least six inches long. The natives also
wear wreaths made of various other kinds of feathers, nearly equal
in beauty to those of the bird of paradise.

This country is beautiful beyond description. The seacoast is
bordered with delightful plains and valleys, covered with handsome
plantations of yams : interspersed with fruit trees, beyond which are
forests comprising many valuable woods, both for diers and cabinet-
makers. The inland hills and mountains are clothed in eternal spring,
and covered almost entirely with forests of gigantic growth. Here
may be found in plenty the highly prized sandal-wood, with the black
and yellow ebony ; all of which ;night be procured with facility, and
at a very low rate, by the competent commander of a suitable vessel,
properly fitted for the voyage ; a vessel so constructed that it would
be impossible to board her, unless the assailants were furnished with
sharp-edged steel weapons and firearms, of which nearly all the
South Sea islanders are destitute. When the natives are once con-
vinced that pilfering is out of the question, and that the vessel is per-
fecdy secure from their attacks, they will immediately turn their
attention to trade, and will soon t'urnish a cargo that cannot fail of
yielding unheard-of profits. INIy experience has enabled me, should
occasion ever ofler, to superintend the building and equipping such a
vessel, for such a voyage.

For reaping the golden harvest which now awaits the sickle of
enterprise in the Pacific Ocean, the means must be adapted to the
object. The vessel, as I have stated before, should be built expressly
for the voyage, and should be of a dilferent construction from any
other. She should have a high deck, be a fast sailer, of about three
hundred and fifty tons burthen ; and manned with a young, chivalric,
and enterprising crew. She should be supplied with experienced
officers, who are spirited, but humane ; active, but cool and deliberate ;
intelligent, honourable, and, above all, temperate. They should be
liberally furnished with every necessary for comfort and health, and
amply supplied with the suitable articles of trade. The commander
should be a first-rate navigator ; one who is familiar with those seas
and islands, and well acquainted with the character and habits of the
natives, as well as with the quality of the difl'erent productions of the
country. If possible, he should be a religious man ; at all events, he
should combine cool deliberate courage with humanity and gentleness,
firmness and dignity with politeness and delicacy. He sliould be
scrupulously attentive to discipline, and not less so to the health and
comfort of his crew. He should be a man who would revolt with

462 VOLCANIC ISLANDS. [1830.

li'onor at tlic ihought of isheJding the blood of an ignorant Indian,
except when imperious necessity demanded it in self-defence, and in
protecting the lives and property intrusted to his care.

I um confident that a ship thus constructed, fitted, equipped, officered,
manned, and suitably armed, with a supply of articles for trade to the
amount of twenty thousand dollars, would, at the expiration of two or
three years (always excepting the dangers of the seas), be able to
<lelivcr a return cargo in this country worili four or five hundred thou-
sand dollars. Besides the articles already mentioned, which are so
easily obtained, there are gold-dust, ambergris, many valuable gems
and drugs, a great variety of shells and minerals, together with a con-
siderable quantity of hiche-de-mer and the edible bird's nests. Unless
some American seizes tlie golden opportunity, this valuable trade will
never be of any benefit to our counir}-, but will soon be monopolized
by foreigners. What possible objection can there be to forming a com-
pany of opulent merchants, who would invest one thousand dollars
oach, to try the experiment ? Without experiments neither science nor
commerce would ever have improved — even the western hemisphere
would have yet been unknown to Europeaiis. Here is an ample field
for the enterprising capitalists of the United Slates ; for this trade has
never yet been opened, or even attempted, by any portion of the com-
mercial world.

Novejnber l'S(h. — On Saturday, the 13th of November, at two, P. M.,
we bore up and steered to the north-west, keeping the mainland as
close on board as possible, frequently being compelled to haul off-shore
to clear the many dangerous coral reefs which lay in our course. At
six, P. M., we were close in with a very conspicuous cape or head-
land, which runs a long way into the sea, terminating in a low sandy
point, on which are many Indian huts, surrounded and shaded by beau-
tiful groves of cocoanut-trees. This pointed promontory I have named
Cape Livingston, in honour of Edward P. Livingston, Esq., secretary of
state for the United States, the scholar, the statesman, and the patriot.
It is situated in latitude 4^ 59' S., and longitude 145'' 16' E.

In the direction of north-north-east from this cape is a small volcanic
island, lying about six leagues from the mainland, which was in full
blaze. The grandeur of the spectacle at night was truly imposing,
•when the flames ascended upwards from the lofty summit of the isolated
mountain, at least one thousand feet ; while the red burning coals of
pumice-stone were carried to tlic north-west on the buoyant wings
of the south-east wind, at an almost incredible height, and to the distance
of many miles. They appeared to tlie observers onboard the Antarc-
tic like millions of flaming stars floating in the air ; and my wife gazed
upon the scene with the most intense interest, occasionally ejaculating
'such exclamations as " Magnificent ! sublime ! grand ! beautiful !
wonderful !" «fcc. This island I named after my worthy friend
Mordecai ]M. Noah, Esq., of New- York.

We now continued following the course of the mainland of PapuR,
or New-Guinea, which tended to the west-north-west, and by eleven,
the next morning, we had passed six volcanic islands, four of
which were burning with terrific grandeur. The other two merely

Nov.] ANOTHER DISCOVERY. 463

emitted smoke from their craters. These islands lie from six to thir-
teen leagues to the north of the nearest part of the coast of New-
Guinea. We saw one volcano on a mountain in the interior of that
island, which also cast out ilames and pumice-stone.

November 14///. — On Sunday, the 14th, at two, P. M., we were close
in with a projecting point of land, which runs out from the main island
to the north. This cape is situated in lat. 3^ US., long. 142^ 39' E. ;
and I have given it the name of C'ape Woodbury, in honour of Levi
Woodbury, Esq., secretary of the navy of the United States : a gen-
tleman whose talents, patriotism, and private virtues are too well known
to require my feeble eulogium.

Four or five miles to the westward of C'ape Woodbury is a fine and
spacious harbour, running in to the south-v/est, the entrance of which
is very narrow, being fronted by coral reefs, which prevent any surge
from the seaboard entering the haven. There is a sufficient depth of
water between the reefs ; but on account of the narrow windings, it
^'ill always be best to v/arp in, when you will be completely sheltered
from all winds. This harbour we shall call by the same name with
"which vve have distinguished the cape, that is in sight to the eastward of it.

We are now approaching a period of this eventful voyage, in the
narrative of which I shall, ybr reasons tchick must he ohvious to every
reader^ suppress dates, courses, distances, bearings, and locations.
Let it therefore suffice, that on leaving the coast of New-Guinea, we
steered to the northward and eastward for a few dai/s, Riid then changed
our course in another direction.

Durin^y this cruise, we one day, at two, P. M., were close in with
a group of islands, to which at present I shall give no name. They
are not laid down in any chart, nor mentioned in any epitome of navi-
gation. The group comprises about twenty islands, most of them
thickly inhabited, all very low, and entirely surrounded by a coral reef
of about seventy-five miles in circumference. Should a chip fall in
with this group in the night, she would be close upon the breakers
before her mariners could see land ; and if not fully acquainted with
their danger, they might attempt to pass over those parts on which
the surf breaks with the least violence, in which case the ship woidd
inevitably be lost. The coral reef which surrounds these islands
varies in width, from half a mile to two miles, and has from two to six or
eiglit feet of water all over it at low tide ; and its whole surface is lit*
orally covered with biche-de-mer, of a very superior quality.

The lagoon within the reef, to wliich there are only two passages,
has a depth of from two to fifteen fathoms of water all over it, with a
coral bottom covered witli many cargoes of pearl-oysters^ equal in
quality to those of the Sooloo sea. The hawk's-bill tortoise are also
very plenty within the reef At the proper season of the year,
the numerous sand-spits in the lagoon are almost covered with
them, where they come to deposite their eggs, and then return to the
sea. In a few' days afterward, they again come up on the land,
ibr the purpose of perpetuating their species. From this period they
are continually coming and going on and off the sand-spits, untd their
young ones have come forth, and are capable of taking care of them-

464 A xNEW GROUP. * [1830.

selves. Tliey then all take to their natural element ; and from that
tfme until the following summer, they continue feeding about the reefs,
but are seldom seen upon dry land.

There are many other valuables here, which it is unnecessary to
mention at this time, as a full and particular description of these islands
will be given on my return from another contemplated voyage, when I
hope to exhibit substantial evidences of the value of this discovery. I
will* now merely state that these islands are all thickly wooded,
containing thousands of cocoanut-trees and bread-fruit trees. They
differ much in size, being from three to fifteen miles in circuit. The
two openings or passages into the lagoon are about one hundred yards
wide each; and have sufficient depth of water for a ship of five or six
hundred tons burthen ; and when once within the reef, she may choose
her depth of water to anchor in one of the finest harbours ever formed
by nature.

Though the natives of these islands wear many ornaments, their
only article of dress, properly so called, is a sort of apron fastened
around the lower part of the body. With the males this is merely
the skin of a fish, but the females wear a small mat, manufactured
from the fibres of the bark of the cocoanut-tree, whieh reaches from
the hips nearly to the knees. In other respects both sexes dress
alike. Around their waists they wear many strings of coral, shells,
and feathers ; rings, hoops, or bracelets of tortoise-shell around their
wrists and arms ; tortoise-shell and mother-of-pearl shell around their
necks.

The natives of these islands are of the usual stature, and well-pro-
portioned in body and limb. Their features are regular and manly ;
their eyes and foreheads indicative of much intellectual capability, and
in the general expression of their countenance the observer will at once
discover much ingenious inquisitiveness, enlivened by good-humoured
vivacity. Though their natural descent may have been originally from
the African race, their skin is not so black as the negroes of unmixed
blood in the United States ; neither have they the African flat foot,
protruding heel, crooked shins, &c., but their legs, as well as their
arms, are finely formed, muscular, strong, and active. Their hair is
short, curly, and crisp, and their teeth regular, sound, and white. The
chiefs are much tattooed on their limbs, chest, and shoulders, with a
large slit in the right ear, for suspending ornaments or insignia of
rank. AU the males are circumcised at an early age.

I was much surprised at falling in with this curious race of men,
differing in so many respects from all the numerous tribes and
nations by whom they are surrounded. I never saw any exactly like
them, in Europe, Asia, Africa, or America, nor on any of the islands
of Australasia or Polynesia. There is not the least resemblance be-
tween them and the Malays, the Carolinians, or the natives of New-
Ireland, New-Britain, or New-Guinea, nor can I form the least con-
jecture from whence these islands could have first been peopled.

At three, P. M., while lying-to within half a mile of the reef which
surrounds this beautiful group of islands, the natives came off in great

Nov ] THE ANTARTIC L\ TOW. 465

lumbers, in canoes that would carry from seventy-five to one hundred
and fifty men. On approaching the vessel th'ey appeared t* be almost
wild with curiosity, astonishment, and numberless other sensations ;
performing a thousand curious antics, and using the qgiost extravagant
gestures. They then held forth a long harangue, the ^ibject of which
we could not comprehend, as neither my 31anilla-mcn nor the natives of
Yap understood a word they uttered. After this they made no scruple
of coming alongside ; but refused to trade, their sole object, which they
took no pains to conceal, being plimder and perhaps massacre.

They appeared to consider the Antarctic as a God-send, driven into
their vicinity for their benefit ; and that all they had to do was to tow
her on to the reef, and take possession, not doubtmg for a moment that
the men on board were so completely in their power as not even to be
consulted on the subject. They accordingly handed us their warps,
directing us to make them fast to the stern of the vessel, that part of
the Antarctic being nearest to the islands, as she was lying-to with her
head off-shore. When this was done, they all dropped astern, and as
the wind was then blowing directly towards the group, they set
their sails, hove them aback, and with the assistance of their paddles,
soon got rapid stern-way on the Antarctic, towing her directly on to
the reef, which was then only about one-third of a mile distant, directly
under our lee.

Their temporary success filled them with so much joy that they
could not contain themselves, but soon got into confusion. In fact,
they testified such excessive delight, that I almost regretted being under
the necessity of dashing a cup of joy so full and mantling. But the
Antarctic was not my property ; and though authorized to give them
beads, trinkets, and other baubles, I did not feel myself at liberty to
relinquish vessel and all. I accordingly gave the word, and the fore-
topsail and head-sails were immediately filled, which soon turned the
tide of affairs. The towers now became the towed., until the vessel
had acquired such rapid headway as to part all their lines, which
saved us the trouble of cutting or casting them off.

This unlooked-for termination of their enterprise struck them with
astonishment and dismay ; and for a few moments they remained
passive, gazing at each other, and after the Antarctic, in speechless
wonder. But as soon as they saw the Antarctic heave-to again, which
was done as soon as she had sufficiently lengthened her distance from
the reef, they seemed to be animated with new hopes, and all paddled
up alongside, apparently determined to adopt some other method of
carrying the vessel. When they had approached within a few yards
of us, they commenced darting their spears at our bodies ; but fortu-
nately, none of them did any injur}*. I now thought it high time to
put a stop to this trifling, and ordered a few guns to be fired over their
heads. This manoeuvre had the desired effect, as about fifteen hundred
of the poor terrified assailants jumped into the water; where nothing
but their black curly heads could be seen when the smoke had dis-
persed. The flame and the smoke, and the whistling of the balls
through the air just over their heads, and above all the roar of the
cannon, almost deprived them of their senses ; so that one of them, in

4^ SUNDAY AND MONDAY. [1830.

the general confusion, liad come near the Antarctic. A waist-boat was
immediately let down, and picked up the straggler, while tlie others
were permitted to make as precipitate a retreat as they pleased.

A few days anterior to tliis incident, we had, mider similar circum-
siances, picked up a native belonging to another group ol'islands, about
tlirce hundred miles distant from the one just described. These two
groups are so nearly alike in every respect, that for the present what
1 have said of one Mill apply to both, with the single exception of the
lano-uage spoken by the natives. Our two captives could not, for some
time, interchange their sentiments verbally, though they could sympa-
tiiize with each other by signs and looks.

My object in bringing these two men to the United States is already
known to the public, and is, I trust, duly appreciated. In the year 1830
they were ferocious savages, and, as they now confess with horror, even
CANNIBALS ! In the year 1832 they are civilized, intelligent men, well
fitted for becoming proper agents, or interpreters and missionaries to
open an intercourse with their native isles, which cannot fail of result-
ing in immense commercial advantages to the United States, and also
incalculable civil and moral blessings to a portion of mankind never
before known or heard of by the civilized world. They have becomo
familiar with the superior arts and enjoyments of civilized life, and are
very anxious to return and communicate the same to their benighted
countrymen. One of them, who was a chief in his native country, has a
great taste for the mechanic arts, particularly such as require the use
of machinery and edge tools. He visits, of his own accord, the differ-
ent factories and workshops, with the inquisitive eye of a philosopher,
and is never satisfied until the use and principle of every operation
liave been explained to him.

If there be suflicient commercial enterprise in the United States to
fit out an expedition to these islands, and thus enable me to restore
these civilized cannibals to their own islands, the stockholders of the
concern would not only realize incalculable profits by the first voyage,
but might monopolize the invaluable trade as long as they please ;
because / alone know icJiere these islands are situated.

If these two natives are enabled to return, they will also be prepared
to instruct their countrymen in the art of agriculture, of which they are
now entirely ignorant. By this means thousands of infants would be
preserved, which are now doomed to perish, lest tlte population of these
islands become too great for their means of sustenance. Was their
rich, mellow, luxuriant soil only partially cultivated, it would produce
sufficient for ten times the population which now occupies it. These
two natives, whom I call " Sunday'^ and " Mo7iday'^ will also prepare
the minds of their countrymen to receive and protect missionaries ;
they will report how kindly and tenderly they have been treated here ^
how much more comfortably we live than they can without some of the
same means ; and how pleasant it is to attend the worship of the Great
Spirit in a Christian temple, where his praises are chanted by hundreds
of sweet voices, borne to heaven on the breath of the pealing organ !

Nofiemher 26tk. — On Friday, the 26th, we took the north-east trade-
"winds from east-by-north, iu latitude 6^ 0' N., long. 144° 55' E. ; and

Dec] SANTA SINTO— DIRECTIONS TO SHIP-MASTERS. 407

on the following day we crossed a shoal of coral about four miles in
circumference, with from three to ten fathoms of water upon it. This
shoal is situated in latitude 7° 31' N., long. 144° 59' E. We now
made the best of our way to the Strait of St. Barnardino, and were
within the entrance of the strait on the 9th of December.

Decemher lOth. — On Friday, the 10th of December, we touched at
Santa Sinto, where we obtained a supply of provisions, of which we
stood very much in need ; as for the last twenty days we had been on
an allowance of one-third. It is truly astonishing, that from the time
of leaving Manilla up to the present date, only one man on board had
been ill, out of a crew of eighty-live men, confined in a small vessel,
and all the time in a very warm climate. I attribute this extraordinary
healthiness almost entirely to the strict attention paid to cleanliness,-
and avoiding unneces-sary exposure, on board the Antarctic. ,

I would earnestly recommend to all ship-masters, on a long voyage,
to keep a special eye to this subject. The crew should be compelled
to attend particularly to this important concern, as respects their per-
sons, cooking vessels, wearing apparel, bedding, &:c. When the bilge-
water becomes the least offensive, a part of the crew should be em-
ployed in pouring pure sea-water into the forepart of the vessel, while
others are pumping it out, until the nuisance is totally abated. This
simple measure will completely nullify or neutralize a very prolific
source of disease. The men should nei-er be permitted to sleep in
their wet clothes, nor on deck, in very warm or very cold climates ; as
this has a tendency to promote the scurvy, when oft' soundings ; while
on soundings, when the devrs are heavy, it engenders fever. Neither
should they be allowed to sleep too much when the weather is hot ;.
for that relaxes and enervates the whole system, and renders the body
liable to many dangerous and often fatal diseases. In warm climates
they should change their clothes twice a week.

; • Ships on long voyages should always be supplied with a liberal
quantity of dried apples, to be distributed to the seamen three times a
week. They should also be carefully furnished with a due quantity
of vinegar, which should be given to the men with their food three times
a day ; besides a spoonful each, every morning, for rinsing their mouths.
Switchel, or molasses and water, with a little vinegar in it, should be
served out to them once or tv;ice a day, v/hile at sea. Their meat,
before cooking, should be well soaked in sea-water, and the strictest
attention ought to be paid to the manner of its being served up after
cooking. The health of a ship's company depends in a great measure
on the character of the cook ; life and death are in his hands, and the
best of them require strict looking al'ter. If personal cleanliness be
essential to health, how much more so must be the cleanliness of our
cookery ! A filthy, careless, ignorant cook is more dangerous than a
pestilence. This subject, I regret to say, is too much neglected by
ship-masters, some of whom seem to think that seamen may be fed
like so many swine ; and that they are merely fed at all in order to
cive them strensfth to work. I know them to be men ; and the best
of men wlien properly treated.

One word more respecting vinegar. The water which we drink at

Gg2

468 RETURN TO MANILLA. [1830.

sea is always more or less impure. This is readily corrected by a
little vinegar, which also tends to promote that salutary perspiration-
ivhich, in hot weather, prevents putrid fevers, and inflammations of
various kinds. I would also recommend that every vessel be supplied
"with a quantity of shrub for the use of the seamen after hard fatigue,
instead of ardent spirits. It will have a much better efiect, as the
vegetable acid it contains gives it a superior efficacy against putrefac-
tion. These two highly important articles, vinegar and shrub, would
be found to be great preventives against the scurvy, on board of vessels
which are engaged in long voyages.
« But the above are not all, nor perhaps the most important benefits re-
sulting from a proper use of vinegar at sea. Every part of the ship,
where it is possible for foul air to engender or to lurk, should be
washed or sprinkled with it at least once a week. Its antiscorbutic
and disinfecting qualities are not so generally known among mariners
as they ought to be. By its influence the lungs and other tender parts
of the human vitals become, as it were, sheathed, or defended against
the volatile particles of every noxious exhalation ; so that it is either
repelled or neutralized, and rendered harmless,

December 14M. — After taking on board the necessary supplies at
Santa Sinto, we pursued our way to Manilla, where we arrived on
Tuesday, December the 14th, and at eleven, A. M., came to anchor
in Manilla Roads, in four fathoms of water, clay ground. Our safe
arrival in port was announced by three exhilarating cheers from our
noble crew of eighty-five men ; who, I am proud to publish to the world,
during the whole of this cruise, from Manilla and back again, a period
of about six months, uniformly conducted themselves in the most faith-
ful, manly, and amiable manner. Not a solitary individual among
them had rendered himself obnoxious to punishment, or even reproof ;
not a man of them but, in the way of duty, would have followed me
into the very jaws of death. So much for treating seamen like men,
instead of lording it over them as if they were slaves.

December \5th. — On the following day M^e discharged the Antarctic,
and soon after sold the cargo to the best advantage, and settled with
our faithful crew. Our friends received us in the most cordial and
aftectionate manner ; and my wife was hailed as the heroine of a ro-
mance in real life. Her own feelings and sensations through all the
little incidents of this fourth voyage are described in her o\vn Journal,
which will soon be published, and to that I shall refer the reader.
Those friends who were so anxious for our safety, and who, the reader
will recollect, endeavoured to dissuade us from this eventful cruise,
now flocked around us with the most animated congratulations. My
two captives, Sunday and Monday, excited the most intense interest
among citizens of all classes ; and the adventures of Leonard Shaw
were the common topic of conversation. In short, the safe return of
the Antarctic to Manilla was hailed as a triumph, and excited as much
enthusiasm as did the return of the Argo, with Jason and his compan-
ions, to Thessaly with the celebrated golden fleece.

Jan.] SINGAPORE. 459

CHAPTER XI.

Disappointed Hopes — Take Freight for Cadiz — Touch at Singapore to licrhten
the Vessel — Description of the Place — Climate, Soil, Health, and Beauty of the

Country — An Aerial Excursion — Delightful Prospects — Sail from Singapore

The treacherous Malays— Precautions necessary to be observed — Double the
Cape of Good Hope — Saldanha Bay — Necessary Repairs — Island of St. Helena
— Tomb of Bonaparte — History and Description of the Island — The Azores

— Cadiz— Bordeaux — Homeward Bound — Safe Arrival — Melancholy News

The Conclusion.

The importance of my new discoveries was universally acknowledged
at Manilla ; and had it not been for the envy and perfidy of some of
my own countrymen, I should have succeeded in raising funds to fit
out the Antarctic in such a manner as immediately to realize a portioa
of the immense profits which still await a well-conducted expedition
to those islands. The sanctity of the tomb, combined with a delicacy
for the feelings of the living, protects the memory of one whose name
would otherwise, in this very narrative, have been stamped with irre-
deemable infamy. His perfidious machinations so far succeeded as
to compel me to abandon the idea of returning to the islands of Sunday-
and Monday until I had first visited the United States. I therefore
obtained a freight for Cadiz, on my way home, and the Antarctic was
ready for sea on the 13th of January, 1831. The Asiatic cholera
was at this time in Manilla.

Jan. 2\st. — After taking leave of all our friends and acquaint-
ance at Manilla, we went on board, on Thursday, the 13th; and at
6, P. M., got under way ; homeward-bound, via the Cape of Good
Hope. At half-past eight, P. M., we passed the Corregidor, with a
strong north-east monsoon ; before we had reached the coast of Cochin
China, however, we found that the Antarctic was overloaded, and there-
fore made the best of our way to Singapore, where we arrived on
Friday, the 21st of January, and landed such a portion of the cargo as
lightened the vessel sufficiently to be considered safe.

The town of Singapore is a recent British settlement, on an island
of the same name, lying at the eastern extremity of the Strait of
Malacca, in latitude 1° 17' 22" north, long. 103° 51' 45" east. Singa-
pore is separated from the mainland forming the peninsula of Ma-
lacca, or Malaya, on the north, by a narrow strait of the same name ; so
narrow, indeed, that in some places it is scarcely a quarter of a mile
across, and yet, in the early period of European navigation,' this little
channel was the thoroughfare between India and China.* At present,

* Native Foreign Trade of China.— " The prinripal part of the junk trade ia carried on by the four
contiguous provinces of Canton, Fokien, Clieki.mg, and Kiannan.

"No foreign trade is |>ermiit<xi with the inland of Formosa ; and I have no means of describing
the extent of the traltic which may be condurtfd between rhma, Corea, and the Leechew Islands.
The following are the countries with which China carri**s on a trade in juuks ; \ii. Japan, the Phil^

470 SIXCwAPORE. [1831.

however, the grand route between the eastern and western portions of
maritime Asia is along the south side of Singapore, and so near to it
that ships in passing and repassing approach close to the roads. The

pines, the Sooloo Isliinds. Celebes, tlwr Moluccas, Borneo, Java, Sumatra, Singapore, Rhio, the
east coast of the Malavan peninsula, Siani, Cochin (Miina, Cambodia, and Tonquin. The ports of
China at which this trade is conducted are Canton, Tchao-tcheou, Nomliong, Hocitcheon, Sulieng,
Kongmoon, Changlim, and Hainan, in the province of Canton ; Amoyand Chincliew, in the province
of Fokien ; Ningpo and Siang-haig, in tiie province ofChekians ; and i^outcheon, in the province of
Kiannan. Tlic following may be looked upon as an approximation to the number of junks carrj ing
on trade with the different places already ei»unierated, viz.

Junk..

Japan, 10 junks, two voyages, 20

Pinlippinc Islauds, 13

Soo'oo Islands, 4

IJorneo 13, Celebes 2, 15

Java, . . ^

Sumatra, 10

Singapore 8. Rhio 1 9

East Coast of Malay Peninsula, §

Siam, 89

Cochin China, . 20

Cambodia, 'on

Tonquin, *" _

* ' — Total 222.

" This statement does not include a great number of small junks belonging to the island of Hainan,
which carry on trade with Tonquin, Cochin China, Cambodia, Siam, and Singapore. Those for
Siam amount yearly to about 50, and for the Cochin Chinese dominions to about 43 ; these alone
■would bring the total number of vessels carrjing on a direct trade between China and foreign coun-
tries to 307r The trade with Japan is confined to the port of Ningpo, in Chekiang, and expressly
limited to 10 vessels ; but as the distance from Nangasaki is a voyage of no more than four days, it
is performed twice a year.

"With the exception of this branch of trade,' the foreign intercourse of the two provinces Clie-
tiang and Kiannan, which are famous for the production of raw silk, teas, and nankeens, is confined
to the Philippine Islands, Tonquin, Cochin China, Cambodia, and Siam ; and none of this class of
vessels, that I am aware of, have ever found their way to the western parts of the Indian archipelago.
•The number of these trading with Siam is 24, all of considerable size ; those trading with the Cochin
Chinese dominions 16, also of considerable size ; and those trading with the Philippines 5 ; making
in all 45, of which the average burden does not fall short of 17,000 tons. I am the more particular
in describing this branch of the Chinese commerce, as we do not ourselves at present partake of it,
and as we possess no direct means of obtaining information in regard to it. All the junks carrying
on this trade with Siam are owned in the latter country, and not in China ; and I am not sure how
far it may not also be so in the other cases. 1 do not doubt but that a similar commerce will, in the
event of a free trade, extend to Singapore ; and that through tliis channel may eventually be obtained
the green teas of Kiannan, and the raw silks of Chekiang.

" Besides the junks now described there is another numerous class, which may be denominated the
colonial shipping of the Chinese. Wherever the Chinese arc settled in any numbers, junks of this
description are to be found; such as in Java, Sumatra, the Straits of Malacca, &(•.. ; but the largest
commerce of this description is conducted from the Cochin Chinese dominions, but especially from
Siam, where the number was estimated to m.e at 200. Several junks of this description from
.the latter country come annually to Singapore, of which the burden is not less than from 300 to
400 tons.

" The junks which trade between China and the adjacent countries are some of them owned and
huilt in China ; but a considerable number also in the latter countries, particularly in Siam and
Cochin China. Of those carrying on the Siamese trade, indeed, no less than 81 out of the 89, of con-
siderable size, were represented to me as being built and owned in Siam. The small junks, how-
ever, can-ying on the trade of Hainan, are all built and owned in China.

"The junks, whether colonial or trading direct with China, vary in burden from 2,000 piculs to
15,000, or carr)' dead weight from 120 to 900 tons. Of those of the last size I have only seen three
HI four, and these were at Siam, and the same which were commonly employed in carrying amission
and tribute yearly from Siam to Canton. Of the whole of the large class of junks, I should think
the average burden will not be overrated at 300 tons each, which would make the total tonnage em-
ployed in the native foreign trade of China between 60,(i00 and 70,000 tons, exclusive of the small
junks of Hainan, which, estimated at 150 tons each, would make in all about S0,000 tons.

"The junks built in China are usually constructed of tir and other inferior woods. When they
arrive in Cambodia, Siam, and the Malayan islands, they commonly furni-sh themselves with masti?,
rudders, and wooden eflichors of the .superior timber of these countries. The junks built in Siam are
a superior class of ves.sels, the planks and upper works bs'ing invariably leak. The cost of ship-
|)uildingia highest at the port of Arnoy in Fokien, and lowest in Siam. At these places, and at
Changlim in Canton, the cost of a junk of 8,000 piculs, or 47(3 tons burden, was staled to me by
-several commanders of junks to be as follows : —

At Siam, 7^400 dollars.

.Changlim, 16,0c,0

Arnoy, 21,000

A junk ofthe size just named has commonly a crew of 90 haiids, consistingof the following oflicera,
besides the crew : a commandi'r. a pilot, an accountant, a captain of the helm, a captain of the
anchor, and a captai.i of the hold. The coaimaader receives no pay, but has the advantage of the

Jan.]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE. 471

island is of an elliptical form, much indented by bays and harbours, and
presenting- many projecting points, promontories, capes, &;c. Its great-
est length is about twenty-seven miles, and its greatest breadth about
fifteen, the whole comprising an area of about two hundred and seventy
square miles. The town is built on a river, at the south side of the
island.

This town was first foimded in the year 1818; and seven years

cabin accommo^lation for passengers, reckoned on thr voyajre between Canton and Singapore worth
J50 Spanish dollars. He is also ths agent of the owners, and receives a commission, commonly
of 10 per cent, on Wie prnjits of such share of the adventure, generally a considerable one, in whic^
they are concerned. The pilot receives for the voyage 200 dollars of wages, and 50 piculs of freight
out and home. The helmsman has 15 picul-s of freight, and no wages. The captains of the anchor
and the hold have 9 piculs of freight each ; and the seamen 7 picula each. None of these have any
wages. The officers and seamen of the colonial junks are difTerently rewarded. In a Siamese junk,
for example, trading between the Siamese capital and Singapore, of 6,000 piculs burden, the com-
mander and pilot had each 100 dollars for the voyage, with 12 piculs of freight apiece. The ac-
countant and helmsman had half of this allov.ance, and each seaman had 13 dollars, with 5 picul*
of freight.

"In construction and outfit, Chinese junks are clumsy and awkward in the extreme. The
Chinese are quite unacquainted with navigation, saving the knowled^^e of the compass: notwiih-
Btanding this, as their pilots are expert, their voyages short, and as they hardly ever sail except at
the height of the monsoons, when a fair and steady seven or eight knots'breeze carries them
directly from port to port, the sea risk is very small. During thirteen years' acquaintance with this
branch of trade, I can recollect hearing of but four slupwrecks; and in all these instances the crews
were saved.

"The construction and rigging of a Chinese jiink may be looked npon as her proper registry*, and
they are a very effectual one ; for the least deviation from them would subject her at once to foreign
charges and foreign duties, and to all kinds of suspicion. The colonial junks, which are of a more
commodious form and outfit, if visiting China, are subjected to the same duties as foreign vessels.
Junks built in Siam, or any other adjacent country, if constructed and fitted out after the customary
model, are admitted to trade to China upon the same terms as those built and owned in the country.
If any part of the crew consist of Siamese, Cochin Chinese, or other foreigners, the latter are ad
mitted only at the port of Canton ; and if found in any other part of China, would be seized and takent
up by the police exactly in the same manner as if they were Europeans. The native trade of China
conducted with foreign countries is not a clandestine commerce, unacknowledged by the Chinese
laws, but has in every case at least the express sanction of the viceroy or governor of the province,
Tvho, on petition, decides the number of junks that shall be allowed to engage in it ; and even enu-
merates the articles which it shall be legal to export and import. At every port, also, where such a
foreign trade is sanctioned, there is a hong or body of security merchants as at Canton ; a fact whicU
shows clearly enough that this institution is parcel of the laws or customs of China, and not a peculiar
restraint imposed upon the intercourse with Europeans.

" The Chinese junks, properly constructed, pay no measurement duty, and no kumsha or present ;
duties, however, are paid upon goods exported and imported, which seem to differ at the different
provinces. They are highest at Amoy, and lowest in the island of Hainan. The Chinese traders
of Siam informed me that they carried on the fairest and easiest trade, subject to the fewest restric-
tions, in the ports of Ningpo and Siang-hai, in Chekiang, and Soutcheon in Kiannan. Great dex-
terity seems everywhere to be exercised by the Chinese in evading the duties. One practice which
is very often followed will afford a good example of this. The coasting trade of China is nearly free
from all duties and other imposts. The merchant takes advantage of this ; and intending in reality
to proceed to Siam or Cochin China, for example, clears a junk out lor the island of Hainan, and thus
avoids the payment of duties. When she returns she will lie four or five days off and on at the
mouth of the port, until a regular bargain be made with thecustom-hou.se officers for the reduction
of duties. The threat held out in such ca.'=eg is to proceed to another port, and thus deprive the
public officers of their customary perquisites. I was assured of the frequency of this practice by
Chinese merchants of Cochin China, as well as by several commanders of junks at Singapore. Fronx
the last-named persons I had another fact of some consequence, as lonnecied with the Chinese trade,
viz. that a good many of the junks, carrying on trade with foreigu ports to the westward of China,
often proceeded on voyages to the northward in the same season. In this manner they stated that
about 20 considerable junks, besides a great many small ones, proceeded annually from Canton to
Souchong, one of the capitals of Kiannan, and in wealth and commerce the rival of Canton, where
thoy sold about 200 chests of opium at .in advance of 50 per cent, beyond the Canton prices. Another
place where the Canton junks, to ilie number of five or six, repair annually, is Chinchew, in the
j^rovince of Shanton, within the Gulf of Pechely, or Yellow Sea, and as far north as the 37ih degree
of latitude."

A Chinese ship or jnnk is seldom the property of one individual. Sometimes 40, 50, or even 100
diflVrent merchants purcha.se a vessel, and divide her into as many different compartments as there
are partners ; so that eich knows his own particular part in the ship, which he is at liberty to fit up
and secure as he pleases. The bulkheads by which these divisions are formed consist of stout
plank?, 90 well calked as to be completely water-tight. A ship thus form»d may strike on a rock,
and yet sustain no serious injury : a leak springing in one division of the hold will not be attended
^vith any d;^m^ge to articles placed in another; and from her firmness, stee is qualified to resist s
more than ordinary shock. A considerable loss of stowage is, of course, sustained ; but the Chinese
exj>ortJ» generally contain a con.si>'t;rab!e value in small bulk. It is only the very largest class of
junks that have so many owners ; but even in the smallest class the number is very considerable.

^^^^1

472 SINGAPORE. [1831.

afterward, the settlement was conlirmcd to the British government, by
a convention with tlie King of the Netherlands, and a treaty with the
Malay princes of Johorr, to whom it belonged. The original inhab-
itants are principally Chinese, Malays, 8umatraus, Bugis, Javanese,
and the natives of Coromandel, Malabar, Bengal, &lc. The Europeans
are not yet numerous, probably not more than three thousand. When
the first census of the whole mixed population was taken, in January,
1824, it did not amount' to eleven thousand; but in 1830, six years
afterward, it had increased to nearly seventeen thousand ; of whom
about one-third were females. It now probably amounts to seventy
thousand.

For the short period it has been in existence, Singapore is, without
an exception, the most thriving colony which the British have in the
East Indies ; being admirably situated for all the purposes of trade ;
and is, in fact, a centre dep6t for the commerce of the Chinese and
Javanese seas. The most valuable productions are brought to this
place, from the Philippines, from Borneo, Sooloo, Java, Sumbawa,
Flores, Celebes, Gillolo, Cerani, Arroe, the west part of Papua, and
nearly all the small islands in the vicinity of those already mentioned.

Among the valuable articles brought to this market are tortoise-
shells, pearls, and pearl-shell, ambergris, gold-dust, edible birds' nests,
birds of paradise, minerals, biclie-de-mer, shells, pepper, coffee, sugar,
hemp, indigo, many valuable gums and drugs, precious woods, <fcc. ;
11 of M'hich are readily purchased by the British merchants who have
stablishments at this place. A lucrative trade is also carried on be-
tween Singapore and Cochin China, Camboja, Siam, Malaya, and
Sumatra. AVithin the last ten years, this place has increased and
flourished beyond all calculation. An Indian village of forty or fifty
bamboo .huts has given place to a splendid well-built little city.

The harbour of Singapore is commodious, safe, and easy of ac-
cess ; and no navigator who has the latest edition of Captain Hors-
burgh's East India Directory can make any mistake in entering it.
This is a book of inestimable value to every ship-master who intends
to visit any port in the East Indies ; and no one should be without it.
Its accuracy may be depended upon. The harbour and town of Sin-
gapore are defended by a strong fort, well garrisoned, and standing in a
beautiful situation.

The surface of this island is beautifully diversified with valleys, plains,
and irregular hills. Its southern part is the most elevated, on one emi-
nence of which is a signal-hous€, for the announcement of vessels that are
coming through any of the neighboimng straits. It is well timbered,
and the trees are generally of a very large size. On the south side,
in the vicinity of the town, is a level, fertile, well cultivated plain, from
fifteen to twenty miles in length, and from three to four miles in breadth.
This whole area is laid out in gardens and plantations ; intersected in
all directions with excellent carriage-roads, the sides of which are
bordered with shrubs of various kinds, and trees of perpetual verdure.
Here the English merchants have their country seats, to which they
retire after business hours, to enjoy the pure air and the truly para-

Jan.] BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY. 475

disiacal scenery which surrounds them. They may talk of Italian skies,
and Sicilian shrubbery. No island or coast in or around the Medi-
terranean Sea can rival Singapore in salubrity ot' climate, fertility
of soil, or beauty of scenery. Its air is deliciously balmy — its
shrubbery luxuriant — health and beauty here revel together — nature is
dressed in evex-changing but never-fading charms, and her sunny
smiles are ever reflected from the human countenance.

From the dawn of day until sometime after sunrise, the most spark-
ling fable of Turkey, Persia, or all the East is fully realized in Singa-
pore. Every leaf, and flov/er, and spray, and blade of grass, is
gemmed with dewdrops of extraordinary clearness and purity ; which
have imbibed so much of the vegetable fragrance, that when they
begin to exhale in the increasing warmth of the solar ray, the whole
atmosphere is filled with the most delightful perfumes, and every
passing zephyr scatters grateful odours from its wings. This is the
hour for healthful recreation. The roads are now crowded with
carriages and equestrians of both sexes, while the fields and meadows,
and lawns, and hills, and valleys are sprinkled with pedestrians,
some in groups, others in pairs, and many in contemplative solitude.
AVhen the sun has attained a somewhat higher altitude, and the strag-
glers begin to feel the potency of his beams, they all repair to their
dwellings, w^ith a keenly sharpened appetite for the luxurious break-
fast that awaits them.

The tow^n of Singapore is about one mile and a half in length, and
one in breadth. The streets are regular, and are built after the English
style, with beautiful side-walks. The houses are principally built of
freestone ; they are generally two stories high, finished with taste and
neatness, and all painted white, which gives the Avhole a very fine and
imposing appearance from the offing. There are a few houses, how-
ever, which detract much from the symmetry and beauty of the tout
ensemble. I allude to those which belong to the Chinese, Malays,
and Hindoos ; merchants who adhere to the custom of their respective
countries, or follow their own taste, whim, or caprice, in the fashion
of their dwellings.

The Chinese are here, as they are at Manilla, the most industrious
class of the whole population ; and as they meet with liberal encour-
agement from the British merchants, they will doubtless contribute
greatly to the improvement of this infant but flourishing settlement.
In fact, I have not the least doubt but in less than half a century
Singapore, as a commercial city, will have no competitor east of Java,
leaving the Bay of Bengal out of the question. There are two good
markets here, which are open every day, at all hours, and are well
supplied with vegetables, fruits, grain, fish, pork, and green turtle ;
the latter is said to be the cheapest animal food that can be procured
at this place.

There are no export or import duties levied here ; no tax, dues, or
fees, for lighthouse, harbour, or anchorage. A register is kept, how-
ever, of all imports and exports. Ship-masters are required to make
reports to the master-intendant, and deliver their invoices to the super-
intendent of imports and exports. There is a weekly newspaper

474

SINGAPORE.

[1831.

published here, called the Singapore Chronicle, which contains a
price current, an account of arrivals and departures of sliipping, and
an oiricial detail of all the exports and imports of the preceding
week. The language of commercial intercourse, whore any of the
natives of the East are concerned, is universally Malay. This is a
simple dialect, easily acquired whh sufiicient accuracy for the trans-
action of the ordinary business. All judicial proceedings are done
in English.

The island of Singapore is abundantly supplied with all kinds of
provisions, vegetables, and fruits, all of which may be purchased at a
very low rate. Wood and water are easily obtained ; and fish may be
eauglit all around the island in any quantities, of great variety, and
excellent quality. All these advantages, with many others which do
not iminediatelV occur to my mind, render this place, what it has
often been called, the paradise of India — the home of plenty, and the
abode of health.*

* Fertile Information of the commercial reader, I think proper to insert in this place the following:
table, showin" the value of the various productions of the Australasian islands, and soutbeni and
eastern coaster the continent, at Sinsapore, in the year 1831. These prices do not vary much
from those of Mai.'illa, Java, or China. ^ The reader will bear ia mind that 100 catties are equal to
one picul, being 133^!bs. avoirdupois.

EA-STERN ARTICLES. From

Bees'-wax, per picul $35

Biche-de-mer (tripang),first sort, per

, picul 45

»' inferior, per picul 20

Isle of France, per picul 10

Renjamin, per picul 10

Betel-nut, "

Birds'-nests, white, per catty 40

black, per picul 25

Camphor, Baras. per catty 12

China, per picul 27

Canvass, Bengal, per bolt 5

Cassia lignea, per picul 10

65
30
27

Coffee, Java,

Malay,
Copper, Japan,

Peruvian,
Cordage, coir,

Dammer, raw, " , ^

Dholl, per bag 2J

Dragons' blood, first sort, per picul —

inferior, per picul 5

Ebony, Isle of France, per picul... 3

of other parts, " ... 1

Elephants' teeth, first sort, " ... 1 15

second sort, per picul 90

third sort, " 70

Gambler, Rhio, and Singapore, per

picul H

Siak, per picul 6"

Gamboge, " 50

Ghee, cow, " 25

buffalo, " 16

Grain, rice, white, per coyan 55

50
38

2.V

cargo, first sort

cargo, inferior "

Bengal, per bag

wheat

gram

Gold-dust, of Pahaag and Siae, per

bungkal 30

of other parts, per bungkal. ... 25

Gunnies, per 100 8

Mother-of-pearl shells, per picul... 19
Nankeens, long junk, per 100 45

To
$40

50
25
25
15

125
30
29

6
12

7"
33
28

120

100

li
6.V

40
1*
2*
3'

31
29
11
20
55

From

■ $-
. 4

EASTERN ARTICLES.

Nankeens, short, per corge. .. .

Oil, cocoanut, per picul

Opium, Patna, per chest

Benares, "

Malwa, "

Pepper, black, per picul

white, "

long, "

Piece goods, Bengal, sunnahs, per

corge 36

Mahmoodies, per corge 30

Gurrahs, per corge 22

Baftahs, " 22

chintz of 12 cubits, per corge 15
chintz of 10 cubits, "
Madras, rnoorees, white, "
blue, "
salempires, blue, per corge. .

brown, "
handkerchiefs, per corge ....
kolamhories, " ....

kambayas, " ....

bugis sarungs, " ....
Bali cloths, " ....

Batick hdkfs. "

Ratans, per picul 14:

Sago, pearl, in cases, per picul.... 2|

Salt, Siam, per coyan 22

Saltpetre, per picul 7

Sapan wood, Manilla, per picul .... 4

Siam, per picul 2

Silk, raw, China, junk, 72 cts 200

Canton, No. 2, 100 cts 300

No. 3,95 eta 285

Spices, nutmegs, per picul

cloves, per picul 30

mace, " 40

Spirits, arrack, per gallon 30

Stick lac, per picul 13

Segars, Manilla, per 1000 6

Sugar, Java, per picul , . 5|

Siam, first sort, per picul 6^

Manilla, per picul 5^

Sugar-candv, per picul 12

Tin, Banca," " 15

10
22
30
30
28
30
20
12
18
5
14

To :

4*
1000
1000 ,

8
7 ,

40
32
26
24

I'k
14
25
35
40
32
100
45
13
40

7 ■
24

24"

250

325

290

40 ct.

13
16

Jan.]

AERIAL EXCURSION.

475

January 23(7. — On Sunday, the 23d, I accompanied a small party
of gentlemen, one of whom was Doctor Almador, to the most elevated
part of the island, about six miles to the west of the town, where
we went for the purpose of breathing the cool air, and gazing on pros-
pects of unrivalled beauty and grandeur. The cxcur.sion was thjought
to be of too laborious a nature for the participation of the more fragile
sex ; for though poets have made angels of them all, they forgot to
add one very important appendage, viz. the wings, without which
ladies could hardly attain the aerial summit to which we were bound.
But my wife was a heroine, and with her friend Miss Almador, insisted
on accompanying us.

The road, or rather pathway, to this eminence is quite narrow,
beino; not more than ten or twelve feet in wudth, and must have been
cut with almost incredible labour, through a forest of gigantic trees,
the umbrageous foliage of which, uniting above, screens it from the
fervid rays of a tropical sun, and veils it in a cool, pensive, contem-
plative gloom. The birds carolled sweetly in the branches above our
heads. We were well mounted; and though some parts of this

EASTERN ARTICLES, From

Tin, Straits, per picul $14i

Tobacco, Java, 40 baskets 200

China, per picul 19i

Tortoise-shell, " 1000

Turmeric, " 2;i

WESTERN ARTICLES.

Ale, Hodgson, per hogshead 40

Anchors and grapnels, per pical.. . 11

Bottles, English, per 100 4

Books, &c —

Canvass, i>er bolt 10

Copper nails and sheathing, perpicul 40

Cordage, per picul 12

Cotton, '• 11

Cotton twist, Xo. 16 to 36, per picul 50

No. 38 to 70, per picul 80

No. 40 to 80, " 85

Earthenware

Flints, per picul Ij

Glassware

Gunpowder, canister, per lOO&s. . . 30

Hardware, assorted

Iron, Swedish, perpicul 5i

English, " 3i

nails, " 8

Lead, pig, " 5i

sheet, " 6

Oilman's stores, " —

Patent shot, per bag 3

Paints, black —

green —

white lead —

Provisions, beef, per tierce 33

pork, per barrel 28

biscuit, per picul 6i

flour. " .= 8

Piece goods, ATadapolams, 25 yds. by

32 in., per piece 2.1

$15

250

1600

45
14

12
42
14
13
55

10'

35
30

7
9

WESTERN ARTICLES. FrOm

Piece goods, imitation Irish, 25 yds.

by 36 in., per piece $2A

"long cloths, 38 to 40 yds. by 34

to 36 in., per piece 7

39 to 40 yds. bv 38 to 40 in., 7

" by 44 in 7

" by 50 in. ) „

« by 55 in. r**'

« by 60 in 10

prints, 7-8, light grounds, single

colours, per piece 3

9-8, do. do 3^

7-8, dark do 3

9-8, do. do 4|

7-8 and 9-8, two colours 3 J

9-8,Turkeyredground,24yds. 12

cambric, 12yds. by40in.,perpc. l\

I2vds. by42in 2

" by45in. 2

jaconet, 20 yds. by 44 to 46 in.. . 2
handkerchiefs, imitation Baiick,

double, per corge 6

Pulicat, " 3

Rosin, per barrel 5

Spelter, per picul 5

Steel, Swedish, perpicul 9

English, " —

Tar, Stockholm, per barrel 6

Woollens, long ell.s, per piece 10

camlets, per piece 32

ladies' cloth, per yard 9

Wines and spirits, Shcrrj', per doz. 6

Madeira, per dozen 7

port, " 8

claret, French, per dozen 4

English, per dozen 10

brandy, per gallon 1

rum, " —

gin, " 4i

8
9

44:
3t

5i
6
14
2
U
2|
7

8
5
6
5t

In compiling the table on the following page, which is intended to be useful to mercantile men,
and to throw some additional light ui>on the trade to the eastern world, I have made use of Hamil-
ton's East India Gazetteer, Capt. llorybnrjjh's Directory, Singapore Chronicle, British Parliament-
ary Papers relating to the Finances of India and Trade to India and China in 1629 and 1S30,
Reports of the I.ord3' and Commons' Committees of 1S30, Kelly's Cambist, Milbuni's Oriental
Commerce, Canton Register, 1830 and 1 ■^31 ; the perusal of which, reduced to English weights
jtnd money, will give the reader a tolerable notion of the extent, variety, and prices of the Canton,
market. Articles not the produce of China, but brought there by the junks en entrepot, are marked
with an asterisk.

loa

476 IMPORTS^

£ s. d. £ s.

Amber l 4 and 2 2

Asafetida li}

Biche-de-nier 3i . . 3A

very superior. .011

Be«s'-wax h^ . .

Ihrds'-nestA 3 17 10 ..

Camplwr, Malay... 2 2 U-.

Cloves, Molucca.. . 9..

Mduriiius 5'. ..

Cochineal 9 O} ..

Copper, Souili ( 85 • •

American \

Do.ai Liming ^ n 91
for exportalioii < *

Do. Japan 9.. 00

Coral fniginenis... 10]. . 1

Cotton yarn 10;] .. 1

Bombay Old)

Ts.,01dTs.2d. V 2A . .
and '2'.d. New )

Bengal 3 ..

Madras 3^

Cotton goods, Brit.

cbinue8,2Syds. 18 .. 14

Icig cloths, I 10 0.. 12

40 yds S

muslins, 34 to q jq o . . 12

40 yds s

^«iinbrics, 12 q 6 .. 8

nenryMonteith-s| q 8 .. 10

bandanas S

Cow bezoar 4 10 2^

Cudbear 9 ..

Cutch, Pegu U..

Cuttings, scarlet... 2 4?i . . 2

Elephants' teeth... 1 9.V.. 2

Fishmaws 1 2^ . . 2

Oiiiseng, crude — 9.. 01

Mace

Myrrh 5k ..

Xu;megs 16.. 01

Olibanum 12 •• 10

^^X\,rres!':::S^66 ..167

Damaun ) .^q ^ q

Malwa S ^"^ " "

Company's do.ll2

Turkey, per lb. 19 10

Orsidue, per 100 J inn

sheets ^ i v v

Peppec, Malay 2^

Putchuck 4

Quicksilver 1 lU

Rose maloes 1 34:

Saltpetre at ^00''

Whampoa S

Do. Linting... 3

Sandal-wood 3i

Sapan-wood Oj

Sharks' fina 5i

Smalls 44

Steel, Swedish, in > i no

kits, per cwt... {

Woollens, broad- ( n e t,

cloth, per yd... \ ^ ^ ^

candets,Eng- I a a n

lish ^ 4 o u

Dutch, nar- 1

row, 4/. 85. and V 6 10
4/. 16.S. : broad j

long ells, do... 18

Skins, beaver 17

fox 2 9i

rabbits 1 7%

seal 6

sea otter 10

land otter 16

Spelter, per ft) li

Tm plates

Tjd, perlb 6.. 61

EXPORTS.
d.

2 8

O4 and
4A .. (
6i

ao )

\.:~

Alum

Aniseed, star

oil of

Bamboo canes, )

per 1000 \

Brass leaf

Camphor at Ma- )

cao &4d. and ^ (TO 10

8kd. ; here 5

Cassia at Macao

34(/. and 3Ad

here

buds- .
China root

* Cubebs

Dragon's blood. •••
Galangal

* Gamboge

Gla.ss beads

Hartall

* Mother-of-pearM ^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^
shells S

Mu.sk 10 10 64 .. 13

Nankeens, Com- i ,(■ r, n

pany's, 1st ^ 10 " «

2.1 do. 1st sort i
13/.rif. tol4Z.;>12 8

2d )

3d do. do 9 12

blue 14

small

Oil of cassia 4 6

Rhubarb 1 11

Silk, raw, Nankin > ^ n mi

Taysan i " ^ -

ditto Tsat lee... 10

Canton 8

Sugar, raw

£ s. d.

58.

101

109
113

I g

Pingfa

candy, Chin- I q

9i
24
2

1st sort

1 4

1 16

4;i

chew \

-■ Canton, )

2d<

sort j

Tea, Bohea

Congou

Campov

Souchong 8

Peko

Ankoi

Ilyson

Do. Skin

Do. Young. .
Gunpowder . . .
Twankav

6.1

10-;

6 9*
4 16

* Tortoise-shell • .

2 U

10 24

10 lU
10 5|

10
11

7
10

S Si

rs.

1 12

J '^

1 4

' u

"
J

1 4

Turmeric

Tutenague

Vermilion

White lead, perlb..
Wiianghees,
scarce, per 1000

N.B.— In converting the weights and moneys
of the original price current, the picul has beeu
taken in round number at 1331b. avoird. ; the
tale at 55. 7rf. ; and the Spanish dollar at i^.
It should be observed, that the quotation for teas
refers to the dead season, and before the fresb
teas have come into the market.

Jan.] DELIGHTFUL PROSPECT. 477

romantic avenue are steep and rugged, our gallant steeds succeeded in
scaling the little precipices with comparative ease and safety. After
a fatiguing ascent of more than two hours, we at length reached the
summit, when a prospect suddenly opened upon our enraptured view
which amply repaid us for all our previous labours. It was, without ex-
ception, the most extensive and most beautifully variegated that I had
ever seen in India. No painter could do it justice ; it must be seen in all
the living, breathing, moving colours of nature, to be duly appreciated.
No pen can accurately describe it ; and yet I shall attempt to give the
reader some faint idea of its outlines.

Standing on the highest point or pinnacle of the island, with nothing
to obstruct the vision in any direction, I first directed my attention to
the north. There lay the lovely peninsula of Malaya, basking in
the life-giving sunbeams, with its M'ood-fringed hills, verdant plains,
and luxuriant valleys ; agreeably interspersed with stupendous preci-
pices, gaping chasms, turbulent foaming cataracts, and silvery cas-
cades, sparkling in the light. In one place was a mountain torrent,
tumbling down a succession of adamantine ridges, foaming, and raging,
and fretting, and dashing headlong through its devious course down to
the plains below ; in another direction flowed a glassy river, gently
meandering through grassy meads, till it united with its more restive
neighbour in a lake or bay, where the crj'stal waters lay at rest, re-
flecting the inverted scenery with the lucidity of a mirror.

The eye leaves this romantic picture with reluctance, and turning a
little more westwardly, instinctively falls on the beautiful plain at the
foot of the hill on which we were standing. Here it ranges whh
delight over a fertile champaign, diversified with thriving plantations,
gardens, groves of cocoanut-trees, betal, areca, and various other trees
and shrubbery, until it reaches the serpentine strait that separates the
island from the main ; a picturesque channel, with a placid surface,
faintly reflecting the imperfect images of the floating clouds above.

On directing the view to the south-east, the harbour of Singapore, with
its numerous shipping, lies in striking relief before you. Here will be
seen as great a variety and as great a contrast, in the fashion of vessels,
as the town presents in its architecture. Majestic East Indiamen, Malay
proas, Chinese junks,country ships, grabs,with an endless variety of small
craft, from Sumatra, Java, Borneo, and the adjacent islands, are thickly
scattered over the bosom of the bay. Turning to the south-west, the
coast of Sumatra presents an extensive plain thickly covered with
forests, through which flow several rivers, which are navigable by the
country proas to the veiy bases of the mountains where they take
their rise. A lofty ridge of these elevations runs through the whole
island, from north to south. In almost every direction are coasts,
studded with small islands ; while to the " far west" a cloudless sky,
and an unruffled sea, sprinkled with vessels of various descriptions,
complete a circular prospect of unrivalled beauty and magnificence.
We were all delighted — the ladies were enraptured.

At five, P. M., we once more mounted our horses, and began to
descend to the world below, through our deeply shaded pathway, which
at this hour began to assume a sombre solitary appearance. A solemii

478 THE MAL.\YS. [1831.

stillness prevailcO, which was only interrupted by the sounds of our
horses' feet, and a.n occasional remark from some one of the party.
All, however, seemed more inclined to silent contemplation than to
sprightly converse, until we had reached the level plain, and caught a
glimpse of the declining sun, then about sinking beyond the western
waters. Then we all found a use for our tongues. The doctor led
the way to his elegant country-seat, which was beautifully situated on
a plain that extended to the waters of the harbour, about a mile and a
half from tlie town. At eight, P. M., we reached the doctor's villa,
'Avhere a number of ladies were wailing our return with the most anx-
ious suspense. The evening of course passed very agreeably, with
the exception of our parting regrets, as we were to sail on the follow-
ing day, and bid a long adieu to Singapore, " a garden in tlie East."

January 24:th. — Having lightened the Antarctic, by selling a part
of her cargo, and taking tortoise-shell for tlie proceeds, we again got
under way, on Monday, the 24th, at three, P. M., and steered for the
Strait of Rio, with a line breeze from north-east, and fair weather. A
few of our particular friends accompanied us for several miles, to
enjoy the pleasure of a sail. Among them were a Mr. Armstrong,
an English merchant of the first standing at Singapore, and the sons
of Dr. Almador, two young gentlemen of great merit, who were also
engaged in mercantile pursuits.

At four, P. M., our Singapore friends took their leave ; and after
"wishing us a pleasant passage to our beloved native country, departed for
their delightful island. We continued on a south-eastern course, until 7,
P. M., Vt^hen we came to anchor in the Strait of Rio, within half a
mile of its eastern shore, in seven fathoms of water, sand and coral
bottom. At four, A. M., we again got under way, cleared the strait,
and steered for the Strait of Gosper, w^hich we entered at eleven, P. M.

January 2Qth. — On Wednesday the 26ih, at four, A. M., we
..passed through the Strait of Gosper, and found ourselves in the
Java sea. We now shaped our course for the Strait of Sunda, which
separates Sumatra from Java, with a moderate breeze from north-
north-east, and squally. On Friday, the 28th, we arrived at the east
entrance of the strait ; and it being nearly calm, I ordered the boat to
be lowered and manned, for the purpose of sending it on shore at
North Island. Before she reached the shore, however, we made a
signal for her return, as we perceived by our glasses some very sus-
picious movements among the natives, who appeared to be lurking
about in ambush.

-' . I landed at this place for w^ater several times, while I was
engaged in the Canton trade ; and never saw any indications of a
Jiostile disposition among the natives, until on this occasion. I have
since learned, however, from good authority, that an English boat's
crew had been cut off at the same place, and in the same year. I
would therefore advise ship-masters not to touch here for water, as it
can be obtained at the small town of Tanger, on the south side of the
-strait, at very short notice, and moderate price ; where the anchorage
also is equally good and safe with that of North Island. Besides this,
the ship's boats and crew will be under the protection of a regular

March.] SAIL TO THE WESTWARD. 479

government, as Tanger is garrisoned by Dutch troops, and inhabited
by civilized natives. The necessary directions for touching at Tanger
point will be found in Horsburgh's East India Directory.

The treachery and perfidy of the Malays having become proverbial, it
behooves every ship-master, when in any of their ports, to be constantly
on his guard, and not to go on shore, except in cases of absolute
necessity, when the boats' crev/ should be well armed, and he himself
furnished with a brace of pistols and cutlass. By neglecting these
necessary precautions, many valuable lives have been sacrificed among
these cowardly piratical wretches. The ships' guns, both great and
small, should also be constantly kept in perfect order, and uell loaded.
When Malay proas are alongside of a ship, one-fourth of the crew
should always be stationed in the tops, on each of which at least
two swivels should be mounted, carrying a poimd and a half ball,
and these should be kept loaded with canisters of musket-balls and
buck-shot. Each top should also be provided with a water-proof arm-
chest, well stored with loaded muskets and blunderbusses, charged
with the largest size buck-shot. Each man in the tops should have a
boarding-pike within reach, and their matches sliould be kept con-
stantly burning, sheltered from the weather by water-tight match-tubs.

Thus equipped, two men in each top would do more execution in
case of an attack than one hundred upon deck ; and it has ahvays
astonished me that ships trading in those seas have not been furnished
with close tops, armed and equipped in the manner here mentioned ;
instead of loading their decks with great guns, which are of little use
when attacked by these Malays, who always depend upon boarding.
In case they should obtain possession of the decks, to the number of
five hundred or even a thousand, a well delivered fire from the tops
"would clear them off, like chaff before a tempest.

For a description of the character, manners, habits, and customs of
the Malays I shall refer the reader to the journals of such voyagers
as have treated on these subjects at large ; particularly that of Cap-
tain II. M. Elmore, in the East India Company's service.

January 29th. — On Saturday, the 29tli of January, at eleven, A. M.,
we passed Java Head, wlien the Antarctic was once more floating 011
the bosom of the Indian Ocean, with light variable winds and calms ;
afterward succeeded by great falls of rain, together with heavy thun-
der and vivid lightning. We continued on a south-west course, making
the best of our way towards the Cape of Good Hope.

Fthruary \'2th. — On Saturday, the 12th of February, being in lati-
tude 11° 19' south, long. 95° 55' east, we took the south-east trade-
wind. We still pursued the same course, passing in sight of the Isle
of France and the island of Madagascar, for more than twenty days,
with variable weather.

March 4th. — On Friday, the 4th of March, at four, P. !M., being in
latitude 32° 15', long. 34° IT east, we spoke the British East India
ship Sesoslris, Captain Gates, from Canton, bound to London. Capt.
Gates very politely inquired if I wished any supplies or assistance
of any kind, assuring me it would be a pleasure to him to spare me a
pzirt of any thing his ship afforded. I made a suitable acknowledg-

480 SALDANHA BAY— ST. HELENA. [1831.

ment, declining the offer with the assurance that I needed nothing but
some canvass to repair my sails, M'hich were very much out of order.
This, however, was the only article of which he himself was short,
nnd as we now had a fine breeze from south-east, and fair weather,
we continued on our passage to the westward, and by sunset the Sesos-
tris was hull-down astern.

March lOth. — The breeze freshened, and on Thursday, the lOih of
March, we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape of Good Hope,
bearing east-north-east, distant ten leagues. We now shaped our
course for Saldanha Bay, with a light breeze from the south-east, and
hazv.

March I2th. — On Saturday, the 12th, we came to anchor in the
bay just mentioned, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom. On the
following morning, at daylight, all hands were employed in unbending
the sails, and taking them on shore, in order that we might give them
a thorough repair ; as they were now so much worn that they would
not bear lowering down or hoisting up in a stiff breeze without split-
ting. We banded them in -every direction, by cutting up old sails, and
middle stitched them all anew. At the same time some of the cfew
were employed in cutting wood, while others were filling the water-
casks, and repairing such rigging as was out of order.

March 14M. — On Monday, the 14th, at two, P. M. I took my wife
up to the village, or residence, where I found my old friends, whom I
had visited on the previous voyage. They were all in good health, and
received us with much cordiality and kindness. It was now seven
weeks since we left Singapore, and it was pleasant to walk again on
terra firma. On the following day the Antarctic's crew were supplied
with an abundance of refreshments of all kinds, including fresh beef,
pork, mutton, vegetables, and fruits.

We were busily employed in putting the sails, rigging, and vessel in
perfect order, until Monday, the 21st ; during which time I made several
excursions into the country ; but have nothing to add to the descrip-
tions and observations recorded in my previous voyage.

March 22d. — On Tuesday, the 22d, after taking leave of all our kind
friends, perhaps for the last time, we got under way at six. A, M., and
put to sea, with a light south-east wind. We shaped our course to the
north-west for several days, with light variable winds and almost entire
calms. On Monday, the 28th, we took the regular south-east trade-
vind, but very light, from south-east-by-east, being then in latitude 25'^
10' S., long. 13° 15' E. Thus we ran out the month of March and a
part of April, still steering to the north and west.

April 7th. — On Thursday, the 7ih of April, at nine, P. M., ^i^e
anchored on the west side of the island of St. Helena, in front of James's
Valley, in ten fathoms of water, sandy bottom. On the following day
■we went on shore and visited the tomb of Bonaparte, and indulged in
the usual contemplations over the earthly remains of that wonderful
man. The spot where he is " quietly inurned" is in a deep valley,
surrounded by a small iron railing, and covered with a coarse brown
stone, lying about eight inches above the level of the ground, without
any inscription whatever upon it. And why should there be ? Who

April.] ST. HELENA. 481

can write the epitaph of Bonaparte ! of him who claimed the attributes
of a god, setting up and putting down kings — destroying nations, and
creating empires !

Bonaparte's sepulchre is overhung or shaded by three weeping-
willows of a very large size ; and a few yards to the south of it is a
spring, from which he always took his water. This interesting spot
is distant from Jamestown about two miles and a half, and is approached
by an excellent road connecting the two places. We next visited the
house in which he resided, and the room in which he breathed his
last. We afterward inspected the new palace which was erected for
him by the British government ; but of which death prevented his be-
coming a tenant.

As most of my readers will expect a particular description of this
celebrated island, and as our brief stay did not permit me to make many
observations, I shall take the liberty of inserting some extracts from
Purdy's New Sailing Directory ; a very valuable work, from which I
have already derived considerable assistance in making out the sailing
directions of this journal, finding' them to agree so exactly with my own
observations. The author is John Purdy, Esq., hydrographer for the
admiralty of Great Britain ; a gentleman to whom the commercial
world is much indebted, on both sides the Atlantic.

I presume every one knows that this island derived its name from
the circumstance of its having been first discovered on St. Helen's day
in the year 1502, by the Portuguese admiral Joao da Nova Galego*
"In 1513 it became the voluntary abode of Fernandez Lopez, a Portu-
guese nobleman, on returning in disgrace from India ; who, being left
here with a few servants and some useful animals, assiduously culti-
vated its resources. In a few years he was recalled to his country,
and imparted the advantages of St. Helena to the East India trade."^
Thomas Cavendish, in his famous cruise around the globe, visited the
island in 1588, and found, as he has said, "divers handsome buildings
and houses ; a church, tiled and whitened very fair ; a causey made
up with stones, reaching into a valley by the seaside." This valley
he describes as the " fairest and largest low spot in all the island, and
is exceedingly sweet and pleasant, and planted in every place either
with fruit or with herbs."

In pursuing this description Cavendish say&, " There are fig-trees-
which bear fruit continually, and very plentifully ; for on every tree you
may see blossoms, green figs, and ripe figs, all at once ; and it is so all
the year long. There is also a great store of lemon-trees, orange-trees,
pomegranate-trees, and date-trees, which bear fruit as the fig-trees do, and
are planted carefully and very artificially, with pleasant walks under and
between them. In every void place is planted parsley, sorrel, basil,
fennel, aniseed, mustard-seed, radishes, and many very good herbs.
The fresh-water brook runneth through divers places of this orchard,,
and may be made to water any tree in the valley." The English ship
Bonaventure, Captain James Lancaster, was here in 1593, and re-
mained about three weeks.

It seems that more than one hundred and thirty years elapsed from
the time of its fijst discovery, before any attempts were made to colo-

482 ST. HELENA. [1831.

nize tlie island of St. Helena. " For some time after the departure of
Lopez," says Purdy, " the island does not appear to have been regu-
larly inhabited ; but in 1640 the Dutch attempted to establish a settle-
ment here, which they relinquished in 1651 to the English East India
Company ; and to this company the entire possession and sovereignty
of the island were granted by charter of Charles II., 3d of April, 1661.
At the close of 1672 the Dutch, by the treachery of one of the inhabit-
ants, again obtained possession ; but it was soon recaptured by three
of the king's ships, under the command of Captain Richard Munden.
The island thus relapsed, by consent, to the crown, but was regranted
by the king to the East India Company, in whom the property and
sovereignty have since been vested. The second charter, dated the
16th of December, 1673, constitutes the governor and company the
true and absolute lords and proprietors of the island, with full legisla-
tive power, but, as near as may be, agreeably to the laws of England,
and reserving also the faith and allegiance of subjects to the crown,
and the rights of the natives, to all intents and purposes, as if they had
been abiding and born within the realm." Such is the brief, but I
believe authentic, history which Mr. Purdy gives of this celebrated
island.

As respects description^ all writers agree that when first descried,
from almost any point of the compass, St. Helena appears like one
vast rock or castle, surrounded by the ocean ; the coasts being gene-
rally high, rugged, and precipitous. " On advancing," says Purdy,
" the prospect gradually improves ; the mountains appear in varied
hues, and then assume the verdant tint which distinguishes their summits.
The rocky coasts will now present a striking contrast to the green
hills and valleys of the interior. The town will next be seen, seated
in a narrow valley between the mountains, with the batteries, the church,
and the white houses, interspersed with trees ; constituting, altogether,
a picturesque and animating scene."

In speaking of the mountainous parts of this adamantine island, he
says, " An elevated chain or ridge, extending nearly east and west,
divides the island into two unequal parts ; numerous ridges and valleys
branch from it in various directions. Diana's Peak, the summit of the
chain towards the east, is the highest point of St. Helena. This peak
commands a magnificent prospect of all the island, with its ridges and
hollows to the sea, its mountains, houses, and plantations ; and within
the area of its horizon, the approaching and departing shipping, to the
distance of nearly sixty miles, if the weather be clear."

There are only two secure landing-places at this island ; one of
which is at Rupert's, and the other at James's or Chapel Valley. In
the former valley, near the sea, is a strong fort or battery, well mounted
with heavy cannon ; but there are no inhabitants near it, on account
of the valley being destitute of fresh water. "■ In the entrance of James's
Valley stands Jamestown, which is defended by a very fine line of
thirty-two pounders, and flanked by a high inaccessible battery upon
the rocks, called Munden's, close under which all ships must pass to
come to an anchor before the town. The principal street consists of
neat and well constructed houses, and divides into two others ; one on

April] ST. HELENA. 483

the east, leading to the country in that direction, and the other to the
upper part of the valley, where the barracks, the new garden, and the
hospital are situated. In the western street are a number of shops,
stored with European and India goods ; but the houses here are very
inferior to those in the lower street, where the principal inhabitants
reside.

" The water that supplies the garrison and shipping is conveyed by
leaden pipes from a spring in the valley, distant more than a mile from
the sea. These pipes lead the water to the jetty, where there are two
cranes for the use of boats, in loading with goods or water-casks, or
for receiving stores from the shipping.

" On the right, or western side, the valley is entered from the
interior, by the steep promontory called Ladder Hill ; the zigzag road
upon which, nine feet in breadth, has a wall on the side next the preci-
pice, and is very easy of ascent. On the left of the valley the car-
riage-road, called side-path, is the avenue to the interior of the island
eastward. This road, which has been made with great labour and
difficulty, goes with an easy ascent transversely to the level above,
whence the prospect is striking and delightful : from a steril, brown
and barren rock you view the most lively verdure ; beautiful lawns,
with sheep and cattle feeding in different places, and interspersed with
small houses, which have generally a large enclosure laid into gardens.
This view is terminated by a prospect of the sea ; or by high rocks,
apparently heaped one upon another to a stupendous height. The
plain, called Longv/ood, towards the eastern side of the island, con-
tains the greatest quantity of level ground. A considerable space on
it is planted with trees. This plain, one thousand seven hundred and
sixty-two feet high, forms another point of view. The scenery is here
enlivened by a small winding stream, which, falling from the heights into
the valley, makes a delightful cascade. Upon the edges of the stream
watercresses are often plentiful.

" A rich mould, from six to twelve inches deep, forms, over the rock,
the general soil of the country, and nourishes a great variety of plants.
The clefts and inequalities produce trees of various species ; and
among these the tallow-tree is said to be indigenous. Several of the
latter grow oh the hills, and there is a copse of them at the south-west
part of the island. The lands are devoted chiefly to pasturage, and
the gardens to culinary roots and vegetables. Utility takes precedence
of taste ; and although the sugar-cane, cotton-tree, indigo, &c., with
the most beautiful plants, have been introduced, the great purpose of
rearing cattle and useful herbs has always been primarily and closely
regarded. The country was found, in the first instance, covered with
wood. Its peculiar productions have since given place to more useful
ones. The wire-grass of India, samphire, and a wild celery abounded
here ; the wire-grass is now found principally in low lands ; the Eng-
lish vernal grass upon the heights. The English oak has also ap-
peared ; it grows remarkably quick, but has never attained perfection.
" Figs, oranges, and pines are found in the valley by the shore, and
but few English fruits have failed. The apple-trees are very abundant^
In a valley near the south-east part of the island, having a run of water

Hh2

484 «T. HELENA. [1831.

through it, which issues from the eastern side of Diana's Peak, there
is an orchard of apple-trees, which flourishes in a remarkable manner,
the branches being, loaded to the ground with fruit ; while, on the same
tree, the blossom is seen, and the apple in all its different stages, from
its first formation until it is ripe, and falling to the ground. The soil
of this orchard is a deep black loam. On one side of the valley it is
ten or twelve feet deep, sloping down with a considerable declivity ;
and might be rendered very valuable if properly cultivated. The tropi-
cal fruits ripen best in the valleys near the sea ; peaches, guavas,
grapes, and figs, in different parts of the island. The hopes of the
farmer have been frequently disappointed in the cultivation of grain ;
sometimes from drought — at others from the depredations of rats, which
have at times been so numerous as to destroy entire crops. Potatoes,
yams, cabbages, pease, beans, &.c. are generally plentiful.

" Cattle of English origin are reared for the use of the company's ships,
and supplied to them very sparingly when a fleet arrives ; the quantity
reared not being adequate to the demand. The sheep and beasts are
in no respect degenerated by change of climate. In some situations
rabbits abound ; pheasants and partridges are numerous, and the gar-
dens are enlivened by the notes of the Canary-bird. Fish, to the ex-
tent of seventy species, have been found on the coast ; among these
mackerel are peculiarly abundant. The shellfish include turtle, oysters,
and two species of lobster. Sea-fowl deposite immense quantities of
eggs around the island, which are collected in the fall of the year, and
constitute an agreeable article of food.

" Of the climate under which such products are found but little need
be said. The thermometer is seldom higher than eighty, and the
summer not so hot as in England. The winter is also milder, com-
monly ranging between fifty-five and fifty- six degrees ; a temperature in
which the vegetation of leaves proceeds with more equality perhaps
than any other. Thunder is seldom heard ; but with a sultry atmo-
sphere, lightning is not unfrequently seen. There have been seasons
of drought wherein the cattle have perished from want of water ; but
in general, rain is experienced in all seasons, particularly in July,
August, and September, or the summer months of the northern hemi-
sphere. Sir Joseph Banks has said that ' every month h-as its share ;.
there are more rainy days in February, however, than in any other
period ; and cloudy days throughout the year exceed in number, almost
two to one, those in which the rays of the sun fall upon the earth
without interruption, and scorch the vegetation.'

" On the hills and high grounds the air is generally cool and agree-
able ; fog-clouds frequently cover the peaks ; or, being driven from the
sea by the wind, strike against them, producing gentle showers, which
quicken the vegetation, and cool the atmosphere on the heights. Hence
the luxuriance of the pastures increases in proportion to the distance
and height from the sea ; and upon the summits of the hills the oxen
may be seen up to their knees in grass.

" During the time a ship or fleet remains in the roads, the passen-
gers are entertained as boarders at private houses, but at a very expen-
sive rate : for which a good table with wines, and comfortable lodgings*

April.] ST. HELENA. 485

are generally provided. The arrival of a fleet brings all the people of
the town from their country avocations ; this being the season of traffic.
Of a large fleet, the crews and passengers may nearly equal in number
the population of the island.

" Upwards of one hundred and fifty ships annually, upon an average,
come to an anchor here ; which, of course, produces great fluctuations
in the prices of provisions : and there is sometimes a temporary scar-
city. The salted meat of England and the rice of Bengal supply the
deficiency. These articles being cheaper than fresh provisions, con-
stitute the principal food of the garrison and inhabitants. Salted meat
is issued from the company's stores under prime cost, and other articles
at only ten per cent, advance, including freight. Beef is sold at 6hd.
per pound, alive, having been raised to that price since 1808 ; and, as
it is principally destined for the king's or the company's shipping, no
person may kill even his own ox without permission of the governor.
" The population, exclusive of the government establishment, civil
and military, is about two thousand, of whom about twelve hundred are
slaves, and three hundred free blacks. No stranger is permitted to
remain on the island without the special consent of the ' lords pro-
prietors,' the East India Company."

In approaching this island, all ships must double round the north
point, and bring-to when they are to windward of the castle. They
must then send a boat on shore, with an officer, to report their nation
and business at the castle, and obtain permission of the governor to
anchor there. AVithout conforming to these rules, all the batteries
would open their fire upon the stranger as she approached ; and it
would be very difficult even for a large fleet of men-of-war to force a
passage to the anchorage. As Jamestown is situated in the most lee-
ward and low part of the island, ships in coming in are obliged to
keep close under the land, by which means their decks are entirely
exposed to the batteries above. Another disadvantage to which a
hostile ship or squadron would be exposed, is that of eddy winds,
calms, and violent gusts, which often lay them almost on their broad-
sides ; so that the natural strength of St. Helena, without reference to
artificial defences, is almost sufficient to protect her against quite a
formidable enemy.

" A ship bound to this island must run down along the north side of
it, within a cable's length of Sugarloaf Point, and afterward keep the
shore close on board, and likewise within a cable's length ; there is no
danger, as it is bold and steep-to. On the west part of Sugarloaf
Point stands a small fort, and a little to the southward of it is Rupert's
Valley. The next point to the southward of the valley is Munden
Point, which, like the rest, must be kept close on board. You then
come to James's Valley, ofl* which is the place of anchoring.

" You may anchor in from eight to fifteen fathoms : the flag-staff*
at the fort bearino- from south-south-east to south-east-bv-south :
Sugarloaf Point nordi-east-by-east ; and Horse-pasture Point south-
by-west-hdlf-west, distant off-shore about half a mile. With these
bearings, you have a good and convenient berth for watering. —
This bank runs out to the westward, ofl' tlie fort, about a mile and a
half, and deepens gradually, from seven fathoms near the shore to

486 * THE AZORES— TERCERA. [1831.

thirty and thirty-five for about a mile and a quarter, when it deepens
suddenly to sixty fathoms, and then no soundings. The bottom in the
road is coarse sand and gravel. You will find no soundings until
you come abreast of Rupert's Valley, where there are from eighteen
to twenty fathoms. One watering-place is just without James's Fort,
where there is a crane for striking the casks into the boats. The
other is at Lemon Valley, where there is the best water, and you may
till the casks in your boats with a hose."

April 9th. — On Saturday, the 9th of April, at ten, P. M., we got
under way, and steered to the north, with a fine breeze from the south-
east and fair weather, which continued about ten days.

April I9th. — We crossed the equator on Tuesday, the 19th, in long.
20° 15' west. We now had almost continual calms, with occasional
light baffling winds, for more than three weeks, during which time we
made only about two hundred and fifty leagues to the north.

Mai/ 13th. — On Friday, the 13th of May, we took the north-east
trade-winds in lat. 13° 0' N., long. 23° 0' W., and continued stand-
ing to the north, until we arrived at the island of Tercera, one of the
Azores, lying in lat. 38° 39' N„ long. 27° 12' W.

Jufie 1st. — On Wednesday, the 1st of June, at six, P. M., we touched
at the port of Angra, the capital of Tercera. This is a bishop's see,
and the residence of the governor of the Azores. The town is well
built, and presents a favourable appearance to the eye of a stranger.
It contains five parishes, and has an elegant cathedral, several churches,
four monasteries, and as many nunneries. The word angra signifies
a small bay, or creek, or station for vessels ; this harbour being the
only convenient one in all the Azores. It is defended by a strong
castle and deep ditch. King Alphonso VI, was imprisoned in this
castle by his brother Peter II. in 1668. The Americans, English,
French, and Dutch have consuls residing here. The population of
Angra is about fifteen thousand, while that of the whole island is esti-
mated at double that amount.

The island of Tercera, or Terceira, as it is often spelled, is supposed
to have derived its name from its local situation, being the third in
counting the whole group ; though it ought to rank as number one in
point of dignity and importance, as appears from a number of circum-
stances, such as its being the seat of government, and the focus of
business, and because the whole cluster is sometimes called the Ter-
ceras. This island is nearly circular, and more than fifty miles in
circumference ; it being twenty-five miles in length, while its medium
breadth is about fifteen. The shores all around it are high,steep, rocky,
and craggy ; so much so that it is considered to be impregnable, as every
accessible part on the coast is defended by a strong fort, mounted with
heavy cannon, and vvell garrisoned with a competent number of soldiers.

The soil is rich and productive, and the climate pleasant and healthy ;
the very rocks, which elsewhere are dry and barren, are here covered with
vines producing excellent grapes, though not equal to those of the Cana-
ries and Madeira. Lemons, oranges, and other tropical fruits grow here
abundantly, as do also the fruits of colder climates. The land yields
large crops of wheat and other grain, together with excellent pasturage

June.J THE AZORES. 487

for cattle. Besides Angra, there are several other towns and large
villages on this island ; but no harbour that is even tolerable, excepting
that of Angra. The forts and garrisons are under the direction of the
governor, who has the power of filling all the vacancies that happen
among the military officers.

The Azores (Hawk Islands), or Western Isles, are a group or
cluster of islands, lying nearly in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean,
westward of Portugal, to which kingdom they belong. They are
about nine hundred miles west of Cape Vincent, and about the same
distance south-east of Newfoundland, so that they are almost at an
equal distance from Europe, Africa, and North America. The centre
of the group is in the same latitude as the Capes of the Delaware, from
which they are six hundred leagues east. They are seen from a great
distance at sea, on account of a high mountain called the peak^ or pico^
rising from an island of the same name. These islands are nine in
number, and are known by the following names : Tercera, St. Michael,
Santa Maria, Gratiosa, St. George, Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo.
The two last are veiy small, and lie at a considerable distance from
the rest.

The Portuguese claim the discovery of the whole group, though
they cannot tell by what navigator, nor at what precise period they
were first seen. The Flemings maintain that they were first discovered
by one of their countrymen, Joshua Vanderberg, a merchant of Bruges ;
who, wlien on a voyage to Lisbon, in 1439, was driven from his course
in a violent storm, and fell in with this group, which he called " The
Flamingas," or Flemish Islands. This was fifty-three years before
Columbus sailed on his first voyage.

On his arrival at Lisbon, Vanderberg communicated the discovery
to some of his friends, and gave such a favourable account of his ad-
venture as induced the Portuguese, who were then the most enterpris-
ing nation in Europe, to attempt a further discovery. They accordingly
explored the whole cluster, in 1444 ; and Don Henry, Prince of Portu-
gal, was so pleased with the acquisition, that he went in person to take
possession of them in 1449. In 1466 Alphonso V. gave them to his
sister, the Duchess of Burgund}^ when some of them were colonized
by Germans and Flemings, who always acknowledged the authority
of Portugal. They were called " The Azores," from the immense
number of hawks found among them.

These islands are evidently of volcanic origin, and they have fre-
quently suffered severely from earthquakes and eruptions. In Kircher's
Mundus Subterraneous, lib. iii., we are informed that "In 1538, fre-
quent earthquakes were felt for nearly eight days, which were so vio-
lent as to compel the inhabitants to forsake their houses, and lie night
and day in the open fields. On the 26th of June, ajire burst through
the surface of the sca^flaining to the clouds, vomiting prodigious quan-
tities of sand, earth, stones, and minerals ; and raging with such fury
that, had not the wind blown from the land, the whole of the neighr
bouring islands would have been destroyed. This was followed by
the emersion of a group of rocks, which at first filled a space of only
five or six acres, but which soon extended to as many miles. Another

488 THE AZORES. [1831.

shock of an earthquake broke them in pieces, and then united them ia
a soHd mass, which now forms one of the small islands that lie on the
north-west of the Azores."

In the thirty-second volume of " Philosophical Transactions ^^^ we
are informed, that " In 1720, another island, amid fire and smoke, which
roared like thunder, appeared between St. Michael's and Tercera, on
the night of the 20th of November. The bursting out of the flames
Vas attended by an earthquake, which shattered many of the houses in
Tercera ; and, for many leagues round the island, astonishing quanti-
ties of pumice-stone and half-broiled fish^ were found floating on the
sea." It appears, however, that this island has since disappeared.
Another terrible earthquake occurred on the 9th of July, 1757, which
shook the whole group of islands to their very foundations, and pro-
duced a new progeny of eighteen small islands, a short distance from
the north coast of St. George's ; which also disappeared in a few
months.

The seventh volume of the Christian Observer contains a particular
account of a new volcano whir-h made its appearance in the island of
St. George, on the 1st of May, 1R08. " The fire burst out in a ditch
in the midst of fertile pastures, three leagues south-east of Vellas, and
immediately formed a crater, in size about twenty -foar acres. It raged
with great fury for two days, and the cinders which it threw up, being
propelled by a strong north-east wind, covered the ground from one to
four feet in depth, for half a league in breadth, and three leagues in
length ; and then passing a channel about five leagues wide, were
driven upon the east point of Pico. The fire had nearly subsided on
the evening of the 2d, when a smaller crater opened a league nearer
Vellas. Its mouth was only about fifty yards in circumference. The fire
seemed struggling for vent, and the force with which a pale blue flame
issued forth resembled a powerful steam-engine multiplied a hundred-
fold. The whole island was convulsed ; earthquakes were frequent,
and horrid bellowings were occasionally heard from the bowels of the
earth !

*' This was followed by twelve or fifteen small volcanoes, which
broke out in the neighbouring field ; but they all subsided on the 11th,
when the large volcano, which had lain dormant for nine days, burst
forth with more tremendous force, and continued to rage until the 5th
of June, when it began to fail, and a few days after it entirely ceased.*
Its horrid belchings were distinctly heard at twelve leagues' distance,
and the immense quantity of lava which it vomited overwhelmed in its
course farms, cattle, cornfields, and vineyards, and swept the town of
XJrsulina from its foundation ! Though it gave timely notice of its
approach, many of the inhabitants, by remaining too long in its vicinity,
endeavouring to save their effects, were so dreadfully scalded by flashes
of steam (which, without injuring their clothes, took ofl*, not only their
skin, but their very flesh), that several of them died upon the spot.
About sixty suffered in this miserable manner, and so great was the
anxiety and consternation which seized upon the people, that they en»

* The elevation of the crater is about three thousand five hundred feet, and its distance from the
^oa about four miles.

June.] THE AZORES. 489

tirely abandoned their domestic concerns, and were in danger of starv-
ing in the midst of plenty."

On the 29th of January, 1810, frequent shocks of earthquakes were
experienced at the island of St. Michael's, and a marine volcano burst
through the sea, about half a league from the land. On the 15th of
June, in the following year, another phenomenon of similar character
occurred, near the west end of the same island, about three miles
from land, in forty fathoms of water.

The Azores are subject also to violent winds, and frequent inunda-
tions of the ocean, which often overwhelm the houses, and sweep from
the fields the flocks and grain. They are, however, extremely fertile,
and produce corn, wine, and fruits in great abundance. There is an
annual exportation of twenty thousand pipes of wine ; and the single
article of tobacco affords a considerable revenue to the King of Portu-
gal, who claims a tenth of all the productions of these islands. The
air is wholesome, and the sky is generally clear and serene. No
poisonous or noxious animals breed on the Azores ; and it is said,
that if carried thither they will expire in a few hours.* The popula-
tion of the whole group has been lately estimated at two hundred
thousand.

St. Michael, or St. Miguel, which is the largest island of the whole
cluster, is situated in lat. .37° 50' N., long. 25° 39' W., about twenty-
five leagues south-east from Tercera. The celebrated Cabral took
possession of it in the name of Portugal, in 1444. It is quite moun-
tainous in the interior, some of the peaks towering to the height of
seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. Among these moun-
tains are several valuable mineral springs. The climate is mild and
agreeable, and the soil is rich and fertile, producing corn, potatoes,
peaches, plums, grapes, oranges, lemons, &c. The waters around
the shores, and in the inlets, are teeming with fish of various kinds,
and of an excellent quality, which can be caught in great abundance.
This island has considerable commerce with Portugal, England, and
the United States. The population has been estimated at eighty-one
thousand. In August, 1831, the troops of Donna Maria, the niece of
Don Pedro, took possession of this island, and still hold it at the pres-
ent day, October, 1832.

Pico derives its name from a lofty mountain on it, much like th'e Peak
of Teneriffe, the summit of which is more than seven thousand feet above
the sea, and it can be seen from a great distance in clear weather.
Mr. Pinkerton strongly recommends to geographers to assume this
mountain as a first meridian of longitude. It is in lat, 38° 27' N., long.
28° 28' W. The population is about twenty-one thousand, who are
principally employed m cultivating the vine, and making wine for ex-
portation.

The island of St. George is in lat. 38° 31' N., long. 27° 55' W.,
and the population is estimated at twelve thousand. The inhabitants
are employed in the cultivation of wheat.

Fayal is a circular island, about ten miles in diameter, rising ab-
ruptly from the sea, in lat. 38° 31' N., long. 28° 41' W., and its centre

* Edin. Eiicyrlopeditt.

490 ARRIVE AT CADIZ. [1631.

towers to the height of about three thousand feet. The capital of
Fayal is Villa de Horta, or Orta. This island is evidently of volcanic
origin, but the soil is rich, mellow, and fertile ; producing wheat, maize,
flax, and nearly all the fruits of Europe and the United States. Oranges
and lemons are abundant. The climate is temperate, mild, and salu-
brious, and the air is remarkable for its uniform purity. Extremes of
heal or cold are never known here. Fine pastures ibr cattle are found
upon the plains of this island ; birds are numerou.s, and fish plenty.
The population has been variously estimated, from sixteen to twenty-
two thousand, and the inhabitants are distinguished for mildness, honesty,
and amiable simplicity of manners.

This place has acquired some celebrity from a conspicuous incident
of the last war between the United States and Great Britain. On the
26th of September, 1814, the American privateer schooner General
Armstrong, commanded by Captain Samuel C. Reid, was attacked in
Fayal Roads (a neutral port), by the boats of the British king's ships
Plantagenet seventy-four, frigate Rota, and brig Carnation. The
action commenced about eight o'clock in the evening, when the assail-
ants were beaten off, with considerable loss. Being reinforced to the
number of twelve boats, they returned at nine o'clock ; and, after a
most desperate and gallant display of heroism on both sides, the British
were again compelled to sheer off, with the loss of several boats. The
gallant Captain Reid was obliged to scuttle his vessel, and Captain
Lloyd, of the Plantagenet, threatened to fire upon the town, unless the
privateer was delivered up to him. On the following morning they
boarded and burnt her. The American loss in this affair was two
killed and seven wounded ; while the British loss was one hundred
and twenty killed, and one hundred and thirty wounded. The captain
of the Plantagenet lost a leg.

Santa Maria is the most southern island of the Azores, being in lat.
36° 59' N., long. 25^ 9' W. This island produces plenty of wheat,
and has about five thousand inhabitants. There is a town on it, called
by the same name.

Gratiosa contains about seven thousand inhabitants, and produces
wheat, wine, butter, and cheese. It is situated in lat. 39"^ 2' N., long.
27^ 58' W.

Flores is a very fertile island, and was so called from the abundance
of flowers which were found upon it. It is in lat. 39^ 26' N., long. 31°
7' W., and contains about seven thousand inhabitants.

Corvo is the smallest of the group, and derives its name from the
abundance of crows that were found upon it. It has about eight hun-
dred inhabitants upon it, who cultivate wheat and raise pork. This
island is situated in lat. 39^ 44' N., long. 31° 7' W.

June lOth. — From Tercera we steered for Cadiz, where we arrived
on Friday, the 10th of June ; but, on account of the Asiatic cholera
being at Manilla when we left, we were not allowed to remain, and
therefore concluded to oroceed to Bordeaux.

The reader will recollect that on my first visit to Cadiz, in the year
1812, the French were bombarding that city, which was closely be-
sieged by land. But the star of Bonaparte had already passed the

June.] CITY OF CADIZ— BORDEAUX. 491

zenith, and was then on the decline. The emperor was at that time
on his fatal expedition into Russia, and Wellington was driving the
French from every part of Spain. They were defeated at Salamanca
on the 21st of July, and Madrid was captured by the British on the
12th of August. On the 26th of the same month the siege of Cadiz
was raised.

All my readers are well aware, I presume, that this is a large and
rich city of Spain, in the province of Andalusia ; that it is seated on an
island, and that it has an excellent harbour. The island is about
eighteen miles in length, and generally nine in breadth ; but the north-
west end, on which the city stands, is not two miles broad. It has a
communication with the continent by a bridge, and the bay formed by
this island is about twelve miles in length and six in breadth. The
south side is inaccessible by sea, because it is lined with craggy rocks ;
and the passage into the harbour is commanded by two forts, called the
Puntal and Malagorda. It is in lat. 36^ 32' N., long. 6^ 18' W.

With very few exceptions, the streets of Cadiz are narrow, ill paved,
insufferably filthy, and horribly odorific. The houses have all flat
roofs, covered with impenetrable cement, and are generally surmounted
with a turret which commands a view of the sea. High above all
these soars the tower of signals, where flags are hung out on the first
sight of a vessel, denoting her size, rig, and national character.

There are a few pleasant spots about Cadiz, one of which is called
the Alraeda, a public promenade, much resorted to in the evening. It
cannot vie, however, v/ith the Battery promenade of the city of New-
York ; as its exposure to the winds of the ocean prevents the trees
thriving, and precludes all hopes of future shade.

Westward of the Almeda, is Campo Santo, an extensive esplanade,
the only airing for coaches ; opposite to which is the fortress of St.
Sebastian, erected on a neck of land running out into the sea. The
round tower at the extremity of this fortress is supposed to have saved
the city from being swept away by the fury of the waves in the dread-
ful earthquake of 1755.

The population of Cadiz is computed at about one hundred thousand.
It is one of the most ancient cities of Europe, and was founded by the
Phenicians. It was afterward a Roman town, and still presents several
interesting remains of Roman antiquities. Cadiz is about forty-five
miles west of Gibraltar, and Malaga bears from it east-by-north, dis-
tant thirty leacrues.

June '20th. — On leaving Cadiz, we steered to the west, and after-
ward to the north, coasting the kingdom of Portugal, a distance of
more than three hundred miles, to the Bay of Biscay, and arrived at
Bordeaux on Monday, the 20th day of June. Here we discharged our
cargo, and took another on board for New- York, and were again ready
to sail on the 14th of July.

Bordeaux is one of the most ancient cities of France, and was for-
merly the metropolis of the late province of Guienne, now the depart-
ment of Gironde. It is situated in a beautiful fertile valley, on the
bank of the river Garonne, which afterward assumes the name of
Gironde. It is three hundred and twenty-five miles south-west of

492 RETURN TO NEW-YORK. [lo3L

Paris, eighty-seven miles south of Rochelle, forty leagues from Tou-
louse, thirty-three from Limoges, fourteen from the Saints, and about
seventy-five miles from the mouth of the river on which it stands. In
the present geographical division of France, Bordeaux is the capital of
the department of Gironde.

The ancient city of Bordeaux, it is said, though considerable in point
of size, was ill built, badly paved, without police, or any of those muni-
cipal regulations indispensably requisite to render a city splendid or
elegant. I was told that it has entirely changed its appearance within
the last forty years. The new city is well built, the streets regular
and handsome, and the public edifices present a noble appearance.
The newest as well as the finest part of it is the public square facing
the harbour. The population is estimated at one hundred thousand,
and their commerce is very extensive.

The harbour is capacious and well secured ; and from its crescent
form is called Le Port de la Lune. The city and harbour are defended
by three forts, which were constructed by the famous Vauban. The
Garonne is a noble river, with depth of water sufficient to enable the
largest ships to come up to the city ; it is considerably wider than the
Thames at London Bridge ; is bordered by a large and elegant quay
between three and four miles in length ; and the water rises in it twelve
feet at full tide. The commerce of this place is also greatly promoted
by the celebrated canal of Languedoc, which communicates with the
Mediterranean, and through which Bordeaux can furnish the south of
France with colonial products at a cheaper rate than Marseilles.
Wines, brandies, and fruits are the staple articles of export ; but the
wine trade is most attended to. Bordeaux is in latitude 44° 50' 20" N.,
long. 0° 34' E.

July I5th. — On Friday, the 15th, we took leave of all our French
friends, and at eleven, A. M., got under way, and once more directed
the Antarctic's course to our long-looked for home, in " the drooping
west." After leaving the river and the Bay of Biscay, our patience was
tantalized with contrary winds, and still more vexatious calms, which
protracted our passage to the unusual length of nearly six weeks.

August 27th. — On Saturday, the 27th of August, we entered the port
of New- York, after an absence of two years lacking six days. My
owners received me in the most kind and cordial manner, which was
more than I anticipated on returning from a voyage attended with such
a succession of misfortunes. This was truly a cordial to my wounded
spirit, and enabled my wife to bear up against the melancholy intelli-
gence which awaited us on reaching our long-deserted home — her father,
her aunt, and her aunt's child were all dead ! as were likewise a female
cousin of my own, and her husband ! Thus ends the narrative of my
" Four Voyages."

THE END.

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