Full text of "Narrative of events in Borneo and Celebes, down to the occupation of Labuan : from the journals of James Brooke esq., rajah of Sarawak, and governor of Labuan. Together with a narrative of the operations of H. M. S. Iris"

Google

This is a digital copy of a book lhal w;ls preserved for general ions on library shelves before il was carefully scanned by Google as pari of a project

to make the world's books discoverable online.

Il has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one thai was never subject

to copy right or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often dillicull lo discover.

Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the

publisher lo a library and linally lo you.

Usage guidelines

Google is proud lo partner with libraries lo digili/e public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order lo keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial panics, including placing Icchnical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:

+ Make n on -commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request thai you use these files for
personal, non -commercial purposes.

+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort lo Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.

+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each lile is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use. remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other

countries. Whether a book is slill in copyright varies from country lo country, and we can'l offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe.

About Google Book Search

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through I lie lull lexl of 1 1 us book on I lie web
al |_-.:. :.-.-:: / / books . qooqle . com/|

Digged by Google

{■■■

D, g ,ii,cd by Google

Digged by Google

(

\ \

), g ,ii,cd by Google

Digged by Google

, Google

Digged by Google

NAERATIVE OF EVENTS

BORNEO AND CELEBES,

THE OCCUPATION OfUBUAN:

JOURNALS OF JAMBS BROOKE, ESQ.

EAJAK Or SARAWAK, AUD DOVHKHOa Or UBCAS.

TOGETHER WITH A NARRATIVE OF THE OPERATIONS Oi"
II. M.S. IRIS.

CAPTAIN RODNEY MUNDY, R.N.

WTTH NUMEROUS PLATES, MAPS, CHARTS, AND WOODCUTS.

LK TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1848.

Digged by Google

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL OF AUCKLAND, G.C.B.
first lord of the admiralty,

arc respect kullt dedicated,

his lordship's obedient servant,
G. RODNEY MUNDT,

Digged by Google

PREFACE.

When I first received the Journals of Mr. Brooke,
it was my intention to have published only such
extracts as related to events subsequent to those
narrated in the " Expedition of her Majesty's
ship Dido to Borneo ; " but, on a closer ex-
amination of the manuscripts, I found so much
instructive and interesting information in .the
earlier part of Mr. Brooke's Diaries, not included
in the work of the Hon. Captain Keppel, that I
at once determined on giving to the public all
such matter as had previously been omitted ; and
I hope that those who may do mc the honour
to read these volumes will deem me fully jus-
tified in the course I have taken. By adopting this
plan, I considered that the career of Mr. Brooke
might be traced with some degree of correctness

Digged by Google

year by year, during his long absence from Eng-
land.

That portion of the Journals which is descriptive
of Celebes will be found worthy of special attention,
as it gives to Europe, for the first time, the history
of the great independent kingdoms of a fine island,
hitherto almost unknown, and whose native princes
are most desirous of forming commercial relations
with the English nation.

The constitution of these Bugis states is very
remarkable, more especially that of Wajo, which,
as Mr. Brooke observes, " bears a striking resem-
blance to the government of feudal times in Eu-
rope, or rather of that period in the history of the
Low Countries when the rights of free citizens
were acknowledged ;" and, strange to say, these are
the only people we are acquainted with, professing
the Moharaedan religion, who have emancipated
themselves from the fetters of despotism.

I have added such engravings from sketches fur-
nished by Mr. Brooke, or from others made by
myself, and officers serving with me, as I have
thought would illustrate the native mode of war-
fare, and display some of the characteristic features
of their country, and I have given every attention
to the preparation of the charts, by aid of which

Digged by Google

it is hoped the reader may be able to trace with
sufficient accuracy the several localities mentioned
in these volumes.

The chart of the Gulf of Boni in Celebes was
prepared under the immediate eye of Mr. Brooke
on his visit to that island, and gives the geo-
graphical situation of many places hitherto un-
known. That of the north-west coast of Borneo
is here presented to the public for the first
time, with the names and positions of the rivers,
which were also obtained by Mr. Brooke during
several exploring expeditions, undertaken for that
purpose by Rear Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane,
K. C. B., the Commander-in-Chief in the Indian
seas.

The general chart of the Archipelago, whilst
showing the track of Mr. Brooke's yacht, the
Royalist, will also point out the singular position
of the province of Sarawak, which, situated at the
extreme north-west point of Borneo, appears in-
deed but as a speck on the confines of this vast
island, yet who shall predict what may hereafter
result from the gradual extension of the civilising
influence already planted on that little spot of
earth?

The present state and future prospects of Labuan

Digged by Google

are set forth in my own Journal with the dis-
coveries of coal, timber, water, &c, made subse-
quently to my taking possession of the island in
the name of the Queen, and the charts to accom-
pany this description will show the proposed site
of the town and other features of the settlement.

To the Earl of Auckland, and the Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, I am much indebted
for the permission granted me of referring to offi-
cial documents relative to Borneo; and I wish
at the same time to thank Rear Admiral Dundas,
C. B., Captain Hamilton, R. N., the secretary, and
John Barrow, Esq., of the Record Office, for the
ready assistance which I have received at their
hands.

I feel myself particularly obliged to Henry Wise,
Esq. for his kindness in giving me access to many
valuable letters from Mr. Brooke ; and my best
acknowledgments are also due to James Augustus
St. John, Esq. for the assiduity and attention which
he paid in his revision of the Journals, as well as
to H. Williams, Esq., for his able notice of the
geological formations of the north-west coast of
Borneo, and for the chart of Sarawak which ac-
companies it.

I am greatly indebted to Francis Grant, Esq.,

Digged by Google

A. R. A., for permission to engrave the head of
Mr. Brooke, which forms the frontispiece to this
volume, from his admirable portrait recently exe-
cuted. A larger and more highly finished en-
graving * from it is in progress. The costume is
that usually worn by the rajah at Sarawak, and is
adapted to the genial climate of Borneo.

* To be published bj Dominic Colnagbi & Co., of Fall Moll, But.

Digged by Google

CONTENTS

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER L

Page 1

Departure from England. Crew of the Royalist Rio Janeiro
Slavery. Cape of Good Hope. Arrival at Singapore. Po-
pulation. Chinese. Malays. Scenery. Buk-el-Tcmah.
Aspect and Character of the Jungle. Ancient City of Jo-
hore. Equivocal Effects of European Civilisation. Sail for
Borneo. Tides of the Straits. Reach the Coast of Bor-

CHAP. H.

Arrival at Sarawak. Interviews with Muda Hassim. Permis-
sion to visit the Interior. Dyak Tribes. Curious Customs.
Visit of Makota. Resources of Sarawak. Dyak of Lundu.
His Account of the Manners and Customs of his Nation.
Recapitulation of Events. Ascent of different Rivers. At-
tack of Pirates - - - - - 17

Departure from Singapore, and Arrival off Celebes. Romantic
Waterfall. Ascent of Lumpu Batang. Bonthian. Coral
Reefs. Districts and Islands along the Coast. Letter to the

Digged by Google

X CONTENTS.

King of Boni. Hia Answer. Dain Matara. Strange Re-
ports. Aspect of the Coast King's Refusal to see Mr.
Brooke. Supposed Antiquities. Negotiations. Customs of
the Country. An Arab Friend. Constitution of Boni.
Election of the King. Ancient Congress. Feast of the Lor
Dara. Opinion of Sir Stamford Raffles. Present Condition
of Boni. The Si Dendring Succession - - Page 30

CHAP. IV.

Tanjong Palette. The Orang Bajow. Negotiations concern-
ing the Letter. Sailing Directions. A Wajo Man's Advice.
Persecution of the Natives. Interview with the Rajah Pan-
gftwa. Conversation with him. Description of the Rajahs.
Striking Appearance of the Native Fleet. Quarrels of Na-
tives. Appearance of Coast. Directions for Navigation.
Bay of Peneke. Formation of Land. Magnificent Costume.
Horsemanship of the Rajahs 45

CHAP. V.

Extent of Wajo. Constitution of Wajo. Right of Land.
Slavery. Observations on the Government. Review of
Civilisation. European Domination, Disputes concerning
Si Dendring. Pride of Birth. Domestic Manners. State
of Morality. Excursion in Wajo. Native Greetings. Bn-
gis Curiosity. The Rajah's Banquet Cockfighting. Po-
litical Discussions. City of Tesora. Customs of the Bugis.
Manners. Simplicity of the Natives. Strange Customs 60

Dance of Sailors. Market of Tesora. Departure. Ascend
the River. Tempi. Description of the Lake. Bugis Rifle

Digged by Google

CONTENTS. XI

Practice. Funeral Ceremonies. Character of the Bugis.
Condition of Women. Visit to the Hills. Changes in the
Aspect of the Country. Indolence of Boatmen. Beautiful
Scenery. Excursions on the Lake. Towns and Population
Evening Landscape. Visit to the Arun-TJjong - Page 84

CHAP. VII.

Si Dendring Succession. Historical Recapitulation. Loutarah
ofWajo. Intrigues and Cabals. European Influence. Re-
ception and Policy of Mr. Brooke in Wajo. Change in the
Councils of Boni. Lake covered with Water Lilies. Fire
at Wattereh. Mosquitoes. Aquatic Birds. Sham Fight.
Interview with Aru Beting. Influence of Arab and Chinese
Settlers - ' - - - - 98

CHAP. VIII.

Nakodah Pelewo. Native Governments. Anecdote of the
Slave Trade. Ceremony of Circumcision. Superstition and
supposed Ruins. Village Shrines. Traces of Hinduism.
Faith in Omens. Deer Hunt. Bngis Literature and Music.
Dancing-Girls. Manufactures and Trade. Singapore Police.
Desire of Protection, Alligators. Letter from Boni. Con-
ference of Chiefs. Election of King. Exchange of Pre-
sents. A Boat-load of Rajahs - - • no

CHAP. IX.

A cynical King and his no less cynical Mistress. Feast of the
Lor Data. Narrow Escape of the Royalist. Arrival at Boni.
Fortunes of the City. Reception by the Patamancowe.
Government of Boni. Ludicrous Etiquette at the Court of
Boni. Costume of the Courtiers. Obtain Leave to visit
the Cave of Mampo - - - - 126

Digged by Google

CHAP. X.

Enter the River Latonro. Its Ramifications, and the Towns
on its Banks. Bugis Hospitality. Lower Chinrana. Port
Dues. Coral Rocks. Markets. Cheapness of Provisions.
Approach the Hill of Mampo. Interior of the Cave. Halls,
Passages, and Stalactites. Native Shrines. Coral Hills.
Curious Effects of Light. Resemblance to the Halls of Al-
hambra. Proceed np the River; here bordered by numerous
Towns, Villages, and Gardens. Fend among the native
Chiefs. Troubles and Dissensions ■ - Page 136

CHAP. XI.

Departure from Chinrana. Presents. Native Tradition on the
Origin of the Bajow Race. Resume the Voyage, and sail
along the Coast. Magnificent Scenery. Ancient State of
Luwu. Ravages of the Small-Pox. Government of Luwu.
Wild Tribes in the Mountains. Trade. Language, Depar-
ture from Luwu. Coast and Islands. Features of the Coast.
Dangerous Reefs - - - - 150

CHAP. xn.

Changes in the Aspect of the Coast Shoals. Minkoka District
and Tribe. Language of the Minkokag. Their Manners and
Religion. Stature and Costume. Resemblance to the Dyaks.
Leave-taking and Funeral Feasts. Superstitions of the
inland Tribes. Trading Habits. Cheapness of Commo-
dities. Descend the Coast. Character of the Scenery.
Scarcity of Provisions. Bonthian- Samarang Roadstead.
Singapore ..... 161

Digged by Google

CHAP. Xffl,

Arrive again at Sarawak. Cordially received by Muds
Hassim. Distracted Condition of Borneo. Negotiations
for the Government of Sarawak. Pangeran Budrudeen.
Description of Borneo : its recent History, Struggles, Plots,
and Massacres. Death of Rajah Api. Elevation of Muda
Hassun. Incurable Defects of Malay Governments Page 176

CHAP. XIV.

Description of Sarawak. Its various Rivers. Soil and Pro-
ductions. Danger of the Inhabitants. Inroads of Pirates.
Mr. Brooke visits the Interior Tribes. Their Ideas of
Religion. Practice of taking Heads. Partial Use of the
Sumpitan. Ceremonies of Marriage. Notions of a future
State. Funeral Rites. Strength of the various Tribes.
Vocabularies - 191

CHAP. XV.

MudaHasaim. The Wild Patakan. Cannibalism of the Battas.
Dyak Ceremonies on the Conclusion of Peace. Fruit Trees.
Ideas of Property. Government of the Dyaks. Crimes and
Punishments. Figurative Expressions. Dyak Fondness for
Drinking. Ascent of the Sadong River. Hospitality of
Sheriff Sahib. The Bore. Fire Flies. The Podada Tree.
Vacillation of the Natives. Enter a Forest Lake. Secluded
Dyak Settlement. Chase of the Orang Outang. Death of
the Game. Burying-Place of the Dyaks. Dyak Hospitality
Condition of the Natives. Fortified Dwellings. An en-
lightened Dyak. Gold Ornaments. Omens and Super-
stitious Bites. Mountain Range. Its Inhabitants. Land
and Sea Dyaks. Strange Customs. Dyak Pirates. Cos-
tume -.---- 208

Digged by Google

CHAP. XVI.

Mission from Sambas. Elanun Pirates. Negotiations with
the Rajah. Prospects of Sarawak. Resources of the District,
Mr. Brooke buys a Schooner. Summary of Proceedings.
Native Expedition np the River. The Rajah prevailed upon
to abandon it. Audience with Muda Hassim. Mode of
spending the Day. Sarawakian Chess playing. Intrigues
among the Chiefs. Chinese Jars. First Visits of the Chinese
to the Archipelago. Topographical Information. Inland
Tribes. Native Ideas of the Country and its Inhabitants.
Manners and Customs of the Kayans. Physiological Com-
parisons. Use of the Sum pi tan. Swords. Religion. Me-
thod of Trading. Funeral Ceremonies. Reflections. Dif-
ficulties of Mr.Brooke's Position. Enmity of Makota. Hostile
Demonstrations. Success of Mr. Brooke's Plans. Reflec-
tions - Page 239

CHAP. XVII.

Arrival of Despatches. Considerations on the Progress of the
Settlement. Code of Lows for the Province. Santab Cottage.
Plantations. Diamond Mines. Suntah River. Method of
working the Diamond Mines. Hajji Ibrahim. Warm Spring.
The Kapullah Tree. Natural History of the Ara Tree.
Relative Positions of the Dutch, the Sultan of Sambas, and
tbe Chinese. Character of the Chinese. Divisions of the
Population. Statistics of Population. Annual Produce of
the West Coast Supply of Gold. Companies for Trade.
Agreement concerning tbe Antimony Ore. Conference. Op-
posite Arguments. End of Conference. Visit from the
Pangawa of Lundu. Traditions of the Creation of Man.
Dyaks formerly subject to Java. Disposal of the Dead 274

Digged by Google

CHAP. XVDX

Fleet of Pirates. Sailing Directions. Coast Scenery. Pursuit
of Pirates. The Big House. Privileges of the Orang Ka ya.
Exchange of Presents. New and curious Custom. Islands
of Talang Tailing. Turtles. Fortified Dwellings. Manner
of depositing Turtle's Eggs. News of Pangeran Budrudeen.
Meeting with the Pangeran and Blanun Panglima. Hostile
Encounter. Death of the Panglima. Character of the Kad jau
Tribe. Return to Sarawak. Execution of Pangeran Budru-
deen. Method of strangling. Krising. News from Singa-
pore. Reports of an intended Invasion. A warning Letter
to the Pirate Chief. Affecting Parting of the condemned
Criminals and the Rajah's Brothers. Land Bearings. Lists
of Rivers. Description of Coast - - Page 297

CHAP. XIX.

Mr. Brooke's Proceedings. Visit to Borneo Proper. Formal
Cession of Sarawak. Character of the Boraeans. Manners
of the Natives. Ceremony of Reading the Proclamation.
Climate. Value of Timber. Condition of Inhabitants. Pre-
paration for assaulting hostile Dyaks. Divisions of the Town.
Negotiations. Arrival of the Native Fleet. Indifference
concerning the Acquisition of Heads. Character of a Dyak
Chief. Dyak Justice. Customs. Head-hunting Expeditions.
Marriage. Burning the Dead. Execution of Parimban and
PaTummo ..... 321

CHAP. XX.

Excursion up the Rivers. Magnificent Scenery. Dyak Re-
ligious Ceremonies. Chinese Establishments. Antimony Ore.
Home Politics. Reflections. Preparations for going to
- Singapore. Leave Sarawak. Anambas Islands. Arrival at

Digged by Google

Singapore. Bornean Coal. Speculations on British Inter-
ference in the Archipelago. Letter to Mr. Wise. News of
a Pirate Fleet. Steam Navigation in the Archipelago.
Prospects of Future Trade. Expedition against the Pirates
Hostile Collision. Visit of Captain Keppel to Muda Hassim.
Grand Native Festival. Relics of the Tribe. Deer and Wild
Hog shooting. Departure of the Dido. Information concern-
ing Piracy. Accident to the Samarang. Difficulty in en-
tertaining the Ship's Company. Arrival of Vessels. Sail for
Borneo. Attempt to open, a Trade. Perpetual cession of
Sarawak. Character of Pangeran Budrudcen Page 334

CHAP. XXI.

Break in Mr. Brooke's Journal. He is attacked with Fever.
Leaves Sarawak for Singapore. Moves on to Pinang.
Threatening Expedition against Acheen. Mr. Brooke accom-
panies it Negotiations with the King. Hostile Demonstra-
tion. Mr. Brooke wounded. The Expedition abandoned.
Mr. Brooke returns to Singapore. Journal resumed. The
Linga River. Interior Constitution of Sarawak Dyaks. Po-
litics. Mining Speculations. Other Rivers of Borneo. Dif-
ferent Tribes. Inland Governments. Native Chiefs. Bird
Island. Deserted River. Former Inhabitants of Sibuyow.
Prosperity of Sarawak. Chinese. Policy of removing Muda.
Hassim to Borneo Proper. Sadong. Malay Population of
Sakarran. Piratical Dyaks. Sir S. Raffles' Opinion concern-
ing Arab Influence. Suggestions for Protection. Return of
the SamSrang. Excursion to Labuan. Speculations on its
Situation. Audience with the Sultan. Offer of the Cession
of Labuan. Visit to Ambong. Return to Sarawak 358

Digged by Google

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME I.

Portrait - Frontispiece

Group of Lundn Dyako, Sarawak - To face page 22

Fragment of Arabian Building ( ? Tomb), Celebes - 60

Village of Tempe and Lake of Tapar-ke-rajah, Celebes 86

Mr. Brooke's House - - - - - 176

Dyak blowing the Sumpitan .... 261
Combat of Dyaks 828

House of Fatiugi Abdulraman at Siriki - - 865

Pangeran Mumin, Prime Minister of the Sultan of Borneo 381
General Chart of Archipelago. -\

Chart of Gulf of Boni. L End of Volume.

Chart of Sarawak Province. J

VOLUME H.

Visit to Brune .... Frontispiece
Illanun Pirate Frabu, off the Kinn-Bnlow Mountain,

Borneo - - - To face page 16

Surprise at K&nowit - - - - - 126

Capture of Brnne ..... 152

Capture of Hajji Saman's Fort 222

Dyak attack with Sompits - - - 227

Signing the Treaty of the Cession of Labuan - 295

Tomb of Captain Gordon, at Labuan - 318

Coal Seam at Labuan .... 343
Chart of N.W. Coast of Borneo. 1

vol. i. a

Digged by Google

ii, Google

EVENTS IN BORNEO.

INTRODUCTION.

During the sixteen months in which I was in
command of Her Majesty's squadron in the Straits
of Singapore and on the coast of Borneo, I became
acquainted with Mr. Brooke, and it was my good
fortune to be much associated with him in the
several operations carried on in that quarter, and
to visit the greater part of the territory comprising
the kingdom of Borneo Proper, by which I had
ample opportunities of acquiring an intimate know-
ledge of the habits, and manners of the natives,
and of the enlightened policy and progressive
measures of Mr. Brooke, since his arrival in that
country.

Many circumstances anterior to my acquaintance
with Mr. Brooke, yet connected with his career in
the Eastern Archipelago, will be found related in my
own Journal in the Second Volume of this work,
at the period in which Her Majesty's ship under my
command first appears upon the scene ; and when
the whole of the proceedings having reference to

Digged by Google

INTRODUCTION.

the various expeditions of the Iris to Borneo are
taken into consideration, it will not, I trust, appear
extraordinary that I should feel so deep an interest
in every thing relating to that magnificent country,
and, with all the heart and warmth of a sailor,
breathe an earnest prayer for the complete success
of the mighty task undertaken by my zealous
and indefatigable friend. Since my return home
from the service on the coast of Borneo, this
distinguished individual, who in consequence of
the late official appointments conferred upon him
by Her Majesty, is now visiting England for a
short period, has kindly placed at my disposal the
whole of his unpublished Journals, extending from
Nov. 1838 to July 1846; and I need scarcely say,
that I esteem it a high and valued privilege thus
to be permitted to exhibit to view a narrative
of the gradual and skilful manner in which Mr.
Brooke carried out his beneficent views from the
very commencement of the undertaking, as also
the occasional workings of his mind, his opinions
and reflections upon passing occurrences, which,
proceeding from so pure and natural a source, will
not fail, it may be hoped, to interest every reader
of these volumes.

The Journal commences at the period when,
as a private gentleman, Mr. Brooke first sailed
from his native land, full of confidence in the
sacredness of the enterprise he was engaging in,
and of hope in its ultimate success. A noble pil-
grimage this 1 prompted, not by the feelings of

lignbcd by Google

INTBODDCTION.

over-heated zeal, but by one of the beat impulses
of the human mind, the desire to relieve and dis-
enchain millions of our oppressed and enslaved
fellow-beings, our dark and semi- barbarous brethren
of the Eastern Archipelago !

I may here state that, owing to the long period
through which the Journals of Mr. Brooke extend,
and the hurried manner in which they were ne-
cessarily written, frequently amidst the turmoils of
war and the discomforts of savage life, it could
hardly be expected that the varied information they
contain should be marked with the regularity of au
ordinary diary ; and it will, therefore, be necessary
for me, in order as far as possible to connect the
links in the chain of his adventures, to introduce
occasionally a short narrative of such parts of his
proceedings as have been omitted in his own
Journal, or have appeared in a late publication.

To accomplish this object, I have either had re-
course to private letters written by Mr. Brooke
from Sarawak to his friends in England, or have
gathered the information by personal communica-
tion with Mr. Brooke himself.

With this short explanation I will now let the
Journals speak for themselves.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL.

DEPASTURE FBOH ENGLAND. — CHEW OF THE BOYAtlST. — BIO
JANEIRO. — SLAVERY. — CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. — ARRIVAL AT
SINGAPORE. — POPULATION. — CHINESE. — MALAYS. — SCENERY. — <

BUK-EL-1'EHiH, ASPECT AND CHARACTER OF THE JUNGLE. —

ANCIENT CITY OP JOHORE. EQUIVOCAL EFFECTS OF EUROPEAN

CIVILISATION. — SAIL FOR BORNEO. — TIDES OF THE BTBAITB. —
REACH THE COAST OP BORNEO.

I bailed from England in the yacht Royalist, in
the month of November, 1838, her crew consisting ■
of the following persons : —

James Brooke

David Irons -

William Williams -

Andrew Murray
Colin Hart -
Clarence Goymour -

Wetherall

Thomas Creswiek -

Graham

William Spence
John MTfenzie
John Balls
William Burnett
George Miers •
Harry Bowers
George Papin -
Richard Earnshaw -

Owner and Commander.

Matter.

Surgeon and Naturalist.

Surveyor and Observer.

Firtt Mate.

Second Mate,

Carpenter.

Steward and Stuffer.

Cook.

Digged by Google

. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

Joseph Middleton -
James Littlepage

}Bo!,t.

Our passage to Rio Janeiro occupied nearly two
months. Whilst refitting in that magnificent har-
bour, I had an opportunity of making several ex-
cursions on shore, and of learning many facta
relative to the slave-trade. This odious traffic is
by law interdicted in the Brazilian territory, and
nominally prohibited by the Brazilian government ;
but the executive has little wish to carry the law
into strict execution, and no power to coerce the
great mass of the white population.

The trade is therefore as briskly carried on as
ever just outside the harbour of Rio ; and though
captures are occasionally made by the English
cruisers, they may be considered as cases of indi-
vidual misfortune rather than any detriment to the
trade at large.

When the captured slavers have undergone all
the harassing delays of a mixed commission com-
posed of Englishmen and Brazilians — when the
live cargoes, through these delays, have been re-
duced by disease and death often to a third of their
original number, the wretched survivors are bound
apprentices to Brazilian planters ; of course, the
apprentice soon dies and the slave survives, for
there is no check beyond a paper return once
a-year, which is made by parties interested, and
is also received by parties interested, in the con-
tinuance of the trade. For the poor creatures

Digged by Google

Chap. I.] ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE. i

themselves there is no protection. Surely more 1889 -
effective measures might be enforced if the Christian
nations of Europe were resolved to unite in the
effort.

After a fortnight's stay at Rio, we sailed for the
Cape of Good Hope, and on the 15th of March beat
into Table Bay, with a fiery south-easter blowing,
and were able to contrast the aspect of the African
coast with that of South America. The former has
little to boast of in comparison, as it is devoid of
the luxuriant verdure and tropical foliage of Rio,
and its culture is less grand and less diversified.
Of this colony I need say little, save that the
good inhabitants of Cape Town complained much
of the want of servants, though unwilling to pay
adequate wages for labour ; and that the effects of
the slave emancipation seemed to give general dis-
satisfaction. However, I had no time to make my-
self acquainted with the mysteries of the colonial
politics, or to inquire into the causes which led to
the turbulent opposition of the Dutch; for, my
repairs completed, I put to sea again on the 29th
of March, and, passing through the Straits of Sunda
and Banca, anchored at Singapore in the last week
in May.

The aspect of this place is at once neat and
highly pleasing, the scenery varied, the borders
of the town being trenched upon by the cultivated
and cleared ground, and by the masses of foliage
of the neighbouring jungle. The government,
dependent on that of Bengal, is conducted on the

Digged by Google

8 mk. srooee's journal. [cmf. i.

i83». TO08 t limited and economical scale. I certainly ex-
pected to find more of the interior in a cultivated
state, and can hardly account for the long neglect
of the soil, when an earlier attention to it would
have rendered the environs of the city a perfect
garden, affording means of support to thousands.
Still the territorial prosperity of the island is steadily
advancing, and in a few years we may hope to see
the site of the wild jungle converted into useful and
productive fields.
Julj i. July 1. — I have been here six weeks, and have

visited most parts of the island. Much of the lower
ground was originally covered by the sea, and a
distinct ridge of sand marks the former beach, one
side of which is a clay soil, with oyster and other
shells embedded, similar to the present anchorage,
whilst the other consists of vegetable mould of
great depth. This, though not the peat of Europe,
presents the same features of gradual change from
the stately forest to the coal mine. The ground,
saturated with moisture, 1b very similar to an Irish
bog ; and, on digging beneath the surface, trees are
found buried, in various stages of decomposition.
I intend to dry specimens of the forest peat, and
so endeavour to determine the trees which formerly
grew upon the island. It would at first appear
probable that the decaying vegetable matter is of
more ancient date than the peat grounds of Ireland ;
but we are led to doubt appearances when we con-
sider the rapid progress of decomposition in this
climate and the speedy growth of wood. Neither

Digged by Google

Chap. I.] POPULATION OP MNaAPOBE. i

can the recessions of the sea have been very re- 1839 '
cent, as Chinese coins, bearing date seven hundred
years ago, and of a dynasty long passed away,
which we must conclude to have been formerly used
in the trade of the Chinese with the islanders, have
been dug up on the present beach.

Emigrants from the Celestial Empire greatly ex-
ceed the natives of all other countries put together,
and form the chief mass of labourers and shop-
keepers. I know not whether most to admire the
Chinese for their many virtues, or to despise them
for their glaring defects and vices. Their industry
exceeds that of any other people on the face of the
earth; they are laborious, patient, and cheerful;
but, on the other hand, they are corrupt, supple,
and exacting, yielding to their superiors, and ty-
rannical to those who fall into their power. The
most interesting class of Chinese are the squatters
in the jungle around the high hill of Buk-el-Temah.
Their habitations may be distinguished, like clear
specks, amidst the woods, and from each a wreath
of smoke arises ; the inmates being constantly en-
gaged in the boiling of gambier. We may estimate
at nearly two thousand these people, who, straying
from the fold of civilisation, become wild and law-
less on its very confines.

The nature of the country renders control dif-
ficult, if not impossible ; so that they may be said
to live beyond the reach of all law, and frequently
resort to acts of violence and robbery. They are,
however, habitually prudent and frugal; and, if

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE S JOURNAL. [Ch*p. I.

permitted, would, in the day of their prosperity,
lay by a sufficiency to meet any reverse of fortune,
and so might gradually emerge from the jungle
and commence labour in the town ; but this de-
sirable object is defeated by their own countrymen,
who, making advances of money on their arrival,
and monopolising the supplying of their common
wants at an enormous profit, load them with an
irredeemable debt, and render them a nuisance,
instead of a benefit, to the colony.

Buk-el-Temah is the highest mountain on the
island, and from its summit commands a mag-
nificent view. The numberless vessels and boats
of every description threading the mazes of the
islands and shoals of the Malacca Straits, the va-
riety of prospect, the depth of perspective, the
lively green, the freshness of the morning in the
dewy jungle, and the entire loneliness and solitude
reigning around, struck me as enchanting. In the
general clearing of the jungle a few noble and
stately trees have been spared on the hill ; but, as
if disdaining this distinction, they wither in a few
years. In feet, deprived of the friendly support of
their neighbours, they quickly decay and fall from
their own weight. To see the jungle en masse is a
lovely sight ; the towering trunks, crowned with
the richest foliage, attract admiration ; but, if we
examine the individuals isolated, they lose in com-
parison with those reared in a clearer space.
Struggling for air and light amid their compa-
nions and rivals, they shoot up straight and tall,

Digged by Google

Chaf. I.] CHINESE. — MALAYS. — SCENEBY.

and present no fantastic branches, no projecting
limbs ; and each, supported by the surrounding
crowd, loses depth and tenacity of root. They
may partly be compared to a body of military ;
the storm may rage, the lightning blast, the earth-
quake shake, and, though many fall, the body at
large scarcely feels the loss. Separate them, and
they will be found far inferior in power to the wild
warrior who, accustomed to stand alone, trusts
to his own strength and dexterity to bear him
through the worst storms of fate.

The Malays of Singapore are a simple-minded
but independent people, who would resent ill-usage
with more violence than discretion, and appear to
have but little idea of the wily craft requisite
to enable them to contend with the Chinese. They
are frugal and easily satisfied ; consequently, they
never tax themselves with continued labour, though
capable of great exertion for a limited period.

The Chinese bear all the marks of having lived
under a despotic government and in a thickly
populated country ; the Malays, of being the de-
nizens of a beneficent clime, which furnishes suffi-
cient for man's simple wants, without the necessity
of toil, and allows him to yield to the dictates of
nature or of passion, without care or apparent
responsibility.

I have made an excursion round the island with
the Governor, Mr. Bonham, whose hospitality and
kind-heartedness are proverbial. The cruise was
agreeable, but unprofitable. The country, every

Digged by Google

SIB. bbookb's JOURNAL. CCha*. I.

where beautiful with verdure, is one mass of the
' richest forest, growing in all its tropical luxuriance,
displaying that depth of landscape which the artist
loves to paint and I delight to look upon. The
site of the ancient city of Johore is now scarcely
discernible, and a few miserable huts are all that
remains to point out the seat of a once powerful
capital. Centuries ago, the sultans of Johore held
extensive sway in the Eastern Archipelago, and
bestowed important benefits on the early trading
societies of white men. Is it not sad to think that
kingdoms are laid low, and the inhabitants op-
pressed and dispersed, whenever they come within
the grasp of European civiUsation ? How painful
the reflection, that, wherever the white man has set
his foot-mark, there the print of the native foot is
obliterated, and that as the tender plant withers
beneath his tread, so wither the aboriginal in-
habitant of the soil ! Yet so it is : crime and
misery, oppression and death, have ever followed
in the track of those enterprising men who first
traversed the ocean, either for the purpose of mer-
cantile adventure or of establishing settlements in
unknown or distant climes. At this day, not one
powerful Malay state exists, and the people them-
selves are verging towards extinction — slowly
perhaps, yet surely.

Borneo is as yet little known ; but its coast I am
still determined to visit, and am, indeed, only
waiting in the hope of securing the services of a
medical and scientific man, for I should be sorry

Digged by Google

Cur. I.] TIDES OF TEE STRAITS.

to enter that magnificent country so rich in objectB :83(
of natural history without collecting some of the
specimens it affords.

August 1. — I sailed from Singapore on the 27th Aug.i
ultimo ; and on the following day, after clearing the
South Channel with a baffling breeze and strong
tide, hauled to the eastward, and lay across for
Victory Island, taking the channel to the south-
ward of Pedra Bianca : I found the tides in the
straits very remarkable, the water running chiefly
from the eastward to the westward at this particu-
lar season ; and, though there be an ebb and flow by
the shore, the current seems pretty constant. This
may be referred to the meeting of the waters of the
China Sea and Indian Ocean, at Pulo Pisang, not
far from hence. The tide from the Indian Ocean
encounters and checks the flood from the eastward,
and occasions the rise on shore ; and the ebb from
Pulo Pisang into the Indian Ocean, allows the
escape of the waters, causing the fall on the shore,
whilst a current from the China Sea prevents their
regular retreat. Occasionally, the tide will run for
days as described, with only a feeble ebb ; at other
times it is more regular. When we consider the
oceans which from either side are pouring their
rival waters into the straits, the numerous channels
with opposing currents, the local causes of aber-
ration from the eccentric form of the land, we shall
be prepared for considerable perplexity in explain-
ing the action of the tides. On the 29th and 30th,
we had light breezes, with occasional calms ; and

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKB'S JOURNAL. [Chap. I.

on the evening of the last-named day, made an
island off the coast of Borneo. A prahu sailing
along bore down to examine our craft ; but, on
observing us haul our wind towards her, stood
away to the westward. Yesterday, with a gen-
tle and favourable breeze we passed the islands of
St. Pierre and Marundam, which are very incor-
rectly laid down in Horsburg's charts. To-day at
noon, we distinctly made out the main land of
Borneo ; and, steering a course for the low point
of Tanjong Api*, anchored, amidst squalls of thun-
der, lightning, and rain, between it and the island
of Marundam.

At length, then, I am on the coast of Borneo.
Our work is commenced. I have toiled and sacri-
ficed much for this consummation ; and, now that
it has arrived, I ask myself if T feel equal to the
task. During the whole of my stay at Singapore
I enjoyed perfect health ; bat these few days at sea
have brought back the return of my illness ; pos-
sibly it is the want of exercise and exposure to the
heat of the sun, and in an active life I shall again
rally. I now see before me a coast almost un-
known, and the charts with errors of a degree and
more ; and vast, indeed, is the field which unfolds
itself. My feelings I can hardly describe. They
are not those of tumultuous joy at the prospect of
success ; but, on the contrary, are rather of a com-
posed and quiet nature ; a fixed determination to

* Called bj the natives Mnngu Raaak. — Ed.

Digged by Google

Ciuf. 1.3 REACH THE COAST OF BORNEO. 15

gird up my loins and endeavour to effect an object >839.
and to perform a service which may eventually be
useful to mankind and creditable to myself; whilst,
at the same time, I must constantly bear in mind
that every step I take must inevitably be fraught
with difficulties and dangers. Yet I shrink not
from this self-imposed task ; for the life, hour by
hour, is one of constant excitement — each day's
run in the " yacht " is marked with guarded cau-
tion — each day's work, as a portion of the whole,
secured beyond all accident ; and as place succeeds
place, and we perfect the knowledge of each, we
feel how much we are doing, and how much there
is to be done.

The water along the shore is clear blue ; bottom,
mud and soft clay, with a tide, at the neap, of one
mile per hour. The party we landed report the
forest to be partially clear from jungle, and to
consist of noble trees : two streams of a brown
colour, but fresh and good, run into the sea close
to Tanjong Api, where a ship in the south-west
monsoon might water. On the sandy beach are
some granite blocks below tide mark. No inha-
bitants were seen, and few objects of natural his-
tory. The appearance of the shore proclaims a
heavy surf in the north-east monsoon when this en-
tire coast is exposed and dangerous. And here I will
close my remarks, written after being forty-eight
hours at anchor within a few miles of Tanjong Api.

August 3. — Got under weigh early, and stood Aug. s.
into the bay between PointB Api and Datu, where

Digged by Google

mh. brooee's journal. [Chap. i.

we dropped our anchor in four fathoms. The shore
is sandy, with a fringe of rocks about a quarter of
a mile off, and the inland scenery beautiful.

August 5. — Heavy squalls of wind and rain
during the night from every point of the com-
pass, — at daybreak a breeze. Got under weigh,
and passed Point Datu at 9 a.m. Beyond this
all is darkness, — land in many directions; but we
are ignorant of it, and find the Information we
obtained at Singapore quite insufiicient to guide
us. Anchored again at night.

August! In the evening 1 landed on the large

island of Talang Talang with two boats' crews.
This island abounds with cream-coloured pigeons
similar to those in Banca Straits; hut they were
bo wild and shy that only one was shot, and that
unfit for a specimen. At its western extremity are
the fort and residence of the Malays, situated on a
cliff a hundred feet in height. The inhabitants
have guns to protect them from the pirates, num-
bers of whom, the chief assured me, resort to this
bay yearly during the season, from the Sulu sea.
The Ulanuns, from his description, appear to be
the most numerous and formidable. The prin-
cipal geographical feature of this bay is Gunong
Poe, which here towers from the edge of the water ;
but I must be better acquainted with the coast ge-
nerally before I enter into any discussion on its
details ; and must now give all my attention to the
necessary arrangements for going up the Sarawak
river.

Digged by Google

Chap. II.] INTERVIEW WITH MUDA HASSIM.

ARRIVAL AT SARAWAK. — INTERVIEWS WITH MI7DA HASSIM. —
PERMISSION TO VISIT THE INTERIOR. — DYAK TRIBES. — CU-
RIOUS CUSTOMS. — VISIT OP MAKOTA. — RESOURCES OF SA-
RAWAK. DYAK OF LUNDU — HIS ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS

AND CUSTOMS OF HIS NATION. — RECAPITULATION OF EVENTS.
— ASCENT OF DIFFERENT RIVERS. — ATTACK OF PIRATES.

August 18 Nearly a fortnight has passed away, isas.

and I have much to relate. After remaining three
days off that part of the coast between the river
Lundu and Santobong, occupied in surveying and
getting the principal points of land laid down on the
chart, I shaped a course for the entrance of the Sa-
rawak, and, on the 12th, despatched my gig up the
river to communicate with the authorities. On the
following day the boat returned, accompanied by a
large prahu, which was sent down by the rajah
Muda Hassim expressly to compliment me on my
arrival, and the pangeran, who was deputed to con-
vey the rajah's congratulations on my advent, was
not a little delighted at receiving a salute of five
guns, and being, moreover, entertained on board
the Royalist, with his numerous followers, for
twenty-four hours.

Two days more brought the Royalist to Sarawak ;
and, after firing a royal salute, I intimated my
intention of paying the rajah a complimentary
visit, and soon afterwards found myself seated in

vol. i. c

Digged by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [cu*p. ii.

the hall of audience, where his brother pangeran
Mahommed, Makota, and other chiefs were also
assembled. The interview occupied about half
an hour. Most of the chiefs were richly dressed,
and the greatest deference was paid to the rajah and
pangerans, by the numerous attendants, who were
seated around and maintained a respectful silence.
This being a state visit, little was said beyond
mere court phrases, and the usual compliments and
expression of friendship ; but towards the evening
I went again on shore, and paid a second visit,
during which Muda Hassim took me aside, and at
once expressed his esteem for the English nation,
and his anxious desire to cultivate friendly relations
with the British government, and to open a trade
with Singapore. On the following morning, the
rajah came on board the Royalist, in consider-
able state, with his fourteen brothers and numer-
ous followers, and remained for a couple of hours.

He received a salute of twenty-one guns ; pre-
sents were exchanged, and the visit terminated to
the satisfaction of all parties. We had some con-
versation relative to the rebellion going on up the
river j but the rajah and his ministers declared it to
be almost suppressed, and of no consequence ; upon
which I immediately requested permission to visit
the interior, and was agreeably surprised at receiv-
ing a cheerful consent to proceed to such parts of
the country as are known to be quiet and orderly.

The Dyaks of Sibuyow, located at Lundu, are
represented as numerous. I trust, God willing,

lignbcd by Google

Chap. II.] VISIT OF MAKOTA.

soon to have an opportunity of describing them
minutely from my personal knowledge ; but I may
now mention some curious facts I have gathered
from the cleverest man here (Makota). The na-
tives of Lundu, Sarebas, and Bintulu speak dif-
ferent languages, and vary greatly in dress and
habits. Those of Lundu and Sarebas do not use
the sumpitan or blowpipe, nor are they tatooed
like the Bintulu Dyaks. These latter use the
sumpitan, and are elaborately tatooed. Their ears
are extended till they reach to the shoulders, and
ornamented with strings of bells, which descend
to the girdle. Their covering round the waist is
composed of the bark of trees, and they are very
expert as woodsmen.

These facts may be worth recording, should I
not visit Bintulu. The tatooing, and the use of the
sumpitan, while they offer some presumption of
affinity with the South Sea islanders, would prove
them to be a different people from other tribes of
Borneo, bearing the common and vague denomina-
tion of Dyaks.

How interesting would be a vocabulary of their
several languages, especially that of Bintulu ! and
procured it shall be, if stout hearts and gaudy pre-
sents can effect it.

I may here remark, that the Malays pronounce
the word Dyak as if it contained no k.

In the evening I was surprised by an intimation
that the pangeran Makota would visit us without
ceremony.

Digged by Google

20 Mit. bruoke's journal. [Cbap. ii.

1889. He is a relation of Muda Hassim, and the ruler
of this country or province, in the absence of the
rajah. He arrived between seven and eight o'clock,
with only one attendant, our first friend, pangeran
Illudeen. I may be excused a brief description
of Makota, a man of much abiUty and seemingly
free from the common faults of bis countrymen.
His appearance is plain, but good-humoured and
intelligent ; and his countenance has few traces
of a Malay descent. His manners, schooled, per-
haps, by subtle dissimulation, seem at once lively,
frank, and engaging ; his descriptions of countries
and people are so graphic that it is difficult to
doubt their fidelity. He stated openly the reason
of his visit, which was to discuss with me the
future conduct of the trade of this place. He
talked much and well of the English and Dutch ;
informed me that the latter bad offered to assist
him in opening the mines here, and had requested
permission to trade. He represented this province
as rich in ores and other commodities. Antimony,
he said, might be obtained in any quantity; and
that the hills likewise yielded tin and gold; and
that wax, rattans, and birds' nests could likewise
be procured.

The war being finished, he proposed availing
himself of these resources. "Would there be a cer-
tainty henceforward of English ships coming in suf-
ficient numbers to take these commodities ? I
readily answered, "Certainly! ships, wherever they
could drive a profitable trade, would be sure to

Digged by Google

Caw. II.] DESCRIPTION OP A DYAK. 21

come, if secure from danger of outrage." He re- 1S39 -
quested me to make my views known to Muda
Hassim, and I consented to do so. He added, the
affair will then be settled. After which he took his
leave, having held with me a conversation as satis-
factory as I hope it will be advantageous.

When I have the interview with the rajah on
this subject, I shall enter into the question more at
large.

August 19 — The pangeran Makota came, after Aug. 19.
breakfast, to say that the rajah was too unwell
to see us ; but that he would be happy to con-
verse with me on the subject of trade, as soon
as he should be a little better. At the same time,
Makota brought me a Dyak — a real living Dyak of
Lundu — whom I kept aboard for some hours, to
gain as much information from him as I could ;
and, from the manner in which it was given, I
entertain no doubt of its truth and fidelity. He
spoke Malay indifferently, and with a very strong
accent, but sufficiently well to be understood. He
had been absent from his tribe five months, by
order of the rajah Makota, and was now about to
return. On being asked whether he would proceed
in our boat to Lundu, he answered, he would do
so willingly. His complexion was somewhat
darker than that of the generality of Malays. The
countenance intelligent, the eye quick and wan-
dering ; the forehead of a medium height. His
stature was five feet two inches, his limbs were
well formed and muscular, the ankles and knees

Digged by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [chap. ii.

small ; and his chest was expanded. He walked
well and erectly, and bore every mark of his
physical powers having been developed by constant
exercise. He was by no means shy or reserved,
but answered readily to our questions, and often,
when they exceeded his power of comprehension,
made us repeat them. I asked him, at first,
whether we could go to Lundu, and whether they
would be glad to see us. His tribe, he replied,
both men and women, would be much pleased
to have Europeans with them, so that we might
rest assured of a kind reception. This native,
whose title was pangawa, gave me the following
information: —

His tribe lived at Lundu, which was not situated
on the river. The Sibuyow live on the river, arid
are the first we shall see. Silakow is not far from
Lundu, near the territory of Sambas. The Kurah
live in the same neighbourhood, half a day's jour-
ney from Sibuyow. Amongst these tribes they
have never had war, but the Dyaks of Sarebas
sometimes attack them. The Sarebas tribe is strong,
and fond of fighting. The Bintulu tribe good, and
tatooed. His tribe never tatooed themselves. They
■ do not use the sumpitan. They eat every thing —
hogs, snakes, &c. They have heads in their houses :
it is a custom amongst them. Q. How do they
get the heads ? A. Whenever they have a fight,
they preserve them. Q. Do they go on purpose
to catch people and cut off their heads? A.
Never, Q. Do your tribe practise the ceremony

i by Google

Digged by Google

ii, Google

CaiP. H.3 CONVERSATION W1TB THE DTAK.

of mixing the blood of the Btranger with that of
their chief? and after drinking are they brothers?
A. No : my tribe do not, but at Rejang and Bintulu
they do so. Q. Could I go to Rejang and Bintulu ?
A. Yes : I will go with you if you wish. Q- When
a Dyak chief dies, what do they do with his body ? A.
They take it into the jungle, place it on a platform,
and build a house over it with a railing around.
Q. Who gets the property the chief leaves ? A. His
wife and children. Q. In the house of the dead man
do they put any thing ? A. Yes : the heads he
had in his life, drinking-vessels, and the clothes he
wore. Q. Do they put food there? A. Yes. Q-What
food ? A. Hog or deer; (adding) after that there is
a feast. Q. Do they eat the food put with the dead
chief? A. No: that is left with him. Q. When they
want a wife, how do they get one ? A. (De-
scribing it on the table with a cigar and two
pens) The man must go to the father ; then, if the
father likes, he lets him have his daughter. Q.
Does the man give the father any present ? A. Yes :
clothes, food, &c. Q. How many wives can a man
marry ? A. One : when she dies, he gets another. Q.
When a wife comes to her husband's house, is
there any ceremony ? A. Yes : they give a feast. Q.
Who gives the feast ? A. Both father and husband.
Q. Have they any priests amongst them, who say
prayers? A. No: Malays have plenty. Q. When a
chief dies, what becomes of his spirit ? A. It goes
into the clouds ! Q. When the chief dies and goes
into the clouds, do you ever see him again ? A . No :

Digged by Google

MR. EliOOKE's JOURNAL. [Chat. II.

but when his friend dies too, they will meet
Q. Amongst these spirits, is there one great spirit
above the rest ? A. ( He seemed only half to compre-
hend, and on the question being repeated, said), I
do not know ; but there are a great many spirits of
my countrymen in the clouds; others are not there.
Q. Did he know there was a God? (The word
Allah was used.) A. Yes. Q. What is God ? He
had heard the word, but did not know what it
meant Q. Do theDyaksoffer sacrifices, orpray like
the Islamites ? A. They offer sacrifice of hog and
deer. Q. To whom do they offer sacrifice ? A, To
Biadum. Q. Who is Biadum? A. AgreatDyak
chief of former days. Q. Biadum — is he one person,
or are there many like him? A. Biadum is one
person. Q. Do they ever offer sacrifice to any other
spirit ? A. Never — never ; to Biadum alone !
Q. Did they ever see Biadum ? A. No : the people
of former days saw him ! Q. Who sends snow,
lightning, thunder, and rain ? A. Biadum. (Here
my visitor showed such unequivocal signs of weari-
ness, that I ordered him something to eat, and
he partook of salt beef, biscuit, and grog.) I
closed our questions by asking him — Are many
of your tribe converted to Islam ? A, Yes, a good
many. Q. Are you of Islam? A. No: I do not
want to be (laughing). After his dinner, I got
him to write down an extensive vocabulary, with
great care, repeating the words, after some time
had elapsed, to see, whether he understood them
again. I then dismissed my wild man for the day,

Digged by Google

Chat. U.] CAPT. MCMDY'S NARRATIVE. 25

in the hope of having a more extended vocabulary *8S9-
ere long. I observed that almost all the words are
accented on the ultimate syllable, and to pronounce
them it requires a great stress to be laid on it. Verbs
I omitted, because I considered them very likely to
be misunderstood and confounded with nouns.

August 20. — I purposed starting for Samarahan Aug. so.
this afternoon, but was recommended by the rajah
to postpone it till to-morrow. The rajah Makota
passed this evening with us, and the Dyak chief
of the Sebuyow tribe came on board to see and
assure us of a welcome among his people. I post-
pone all remarks on these Dyaks until I visit them.
The name of the chief was Sijugah. His son was
called Bunsie.

The journal of the voyage up the river Sarawak, PB*J™
and the proceedings of Mr. Brooke with the rajah Narrative.
Muda Hassira, the chiefs, and people of that dis-
trict, having appeared at length in a late publi-
cation, I shall now briefly offer a narrative of the
principal occurrences which took place during that
expedition.

It will be remembered that Mr. Brooke, on
leaving Singapore, had taken on board the Royalist
an assortment of presents of British manufacture,
which he conceived would be most acceptable to
the native princes, one of the principal objects of
this hazardous undertaking being to open a new
and rich country to the enterprise of the British

Digged by Google

CAPT. MUNDY'S NARRATIVE. [Chap. II.

merchant. The Royalist anchored in the reach
close to the town of Sarawak on the 15th of
August, and the astonishment of the semi-bar-
barous inhabitants at seeing a small schooner, the
entire crew of which did not amount in number to
a third of the crew of one of their war prahus,
boldly ascend twenty miles into the interior, and
quietly take up her berth off the residence of the
rajah, may easily be conceived ; and it would
appear that the courage and audacity of such a
proceeding, if it did not paralyse any attempt at a
hostile movement, may at any rate have excited
the admiration of the assembled natives, and have
impressed them with awe and reverence for the
white strangers.

Whatever may have been the first impressions
in the breasts of these people, it was soon apparent
that the feeling of the mass was a friendly one ; and,
due precautions having been taken for the security
of the yacht, Mr. Brooke immediately trusted his
person to the good faith of the chiefe, and, pro-
ceeding on shore, entered upon the object of his
visit. The province of Sarawak was at that period
in arms against the authority of the sultan, and the
rajah, Muda Hassim, at once the governor of the
country and the uncle of the sovereign, was busily
engaged endeavouring to suppress the rebellion.
Probably it may have entered his mind, that the
unlooked-for advent of an English traveller might
be turned to his advantage in the campaign about
to commence on one of the neighbouring rivers,

Digged by Google

Cn*F. H.] DESCRIPTION OF TUKGONG.

where the rebels had succeeded in strongly in-
trenching themselves; and it is also probable
that with this view every civility was shown to
Mr. Brooke, and the consent of the rajah readily
obtained for his visiting that portion of the country
still firm in its allegiance.

After remaining a week at the anchorage, the re-
quired passport was duly furnished, and Mr. Brooke,
in the long boat of his yacht, escorted by a few
native prahus, moved down the river, and passed out
into the Moratabas. After an ascent of eighty
miles up the Samarahan, the pangeran, or chief of
the escort, declared that the Dyaks were every
where hostile ; and, as he was responsible to the
rajah for the safety of Mr. Brooke, he insisted on
returning to Sarawak, which they reached again
after an absence of only four days. During this
period, besides a hasty survey, a cursory glance at
the villages of Sibow, Siniawin, and Rembas was
all that could be obtained. After five days' repose
on board the yacht, Mr Brooke again set forth on the
30th of August with the same flotilla and guides,
and, proceeding to the entrance of the Lundu
river, reached the Sibfiyow town of Tungong on
the 1st of September, when the immense size of the
Dyak buildings first attracted his attention, the
dimensions of the largest house being 594 feet long,
with a proportionate breadth ; and the decorations
of the interior the most prized being Bkulls of ene-
mies slain in war or surprised by craft. The whole
community residing in this dwelling amounted

Digged by Google

CAPT. MUNDY S NAEEATIVE. [Chat. II.

to 400 souls. I will not, however, enter into any
further description of this place and its wild inha-
bitants, as the reader will presently have most in-
teresting details placed before him from the pen
of Mr. Brooke himself. I shall briefly remark,
that, after a week's cruize, during which, owing to
the distracted state of the country, it was im-
possible to remain long in any of the rivers, our
enterprising traveller returned again to Sarawak ;
and, after paying the usual complimentary visits to
the rajah Muda Hassim, from whom he received
assurance of an earnest desire to encourage lawful
commerce, he sailed on his return voyage to Sin-
gapore, on the 20th of September.

It was, however, destined that Mr. Brooke should
not leave the coast of Borneo without personal
proof of the "violence that walked abroad;" for,
having, anchored the Royalist off the Sadung, the
prahu of his friend the panglima was suddenly
attacked under the shadows of evening, by the
pirates of Sarebas, when the panglima and several
of his men were severely wounded ; and, but for
the opportune discharge of the guns of the yacht,
the whole party would have been slaughtered.

The Royalist reached Singapore in safety after
an absence of two months, during which time
Mr. Brooke had seen quite sufficient to make him
deeply interested in the future fortune of Sarawak.
The probability, however, of the civil war con-
tinuing for many months rendering an early re-
turn injudicious, he decided on making an ex-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. II.] ATTACK OF PIBATES.

cursion to Celebes, the inhabitants of which had
been described as a very extraordinary and par-
tially civilised race ; and, all arrangements being
completed, he left the Straits for that part of the
Archipelago in the middle of November, taking
with him, as before, a large assortment of British
goods as presents to the chiefs and people.

The details of this expedition, which extended
over a period of six months, will now be given
from the Diary of Mr. Brooke, written on the
spot.

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL,

DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE, AND ARRIVAL OFF CELEBES. —

THIAN. — CORAL BEEFS DISTRICTS AND ISLANDS ALONG

THE COAST. LETTER TO THE KJNG OF BONI BOS

ANSWER. DADJ MATARA. — STRANGE REPORTS. AS-
PECT OF THE COAST. — King's REFUSAL TO BEE MR. BROOKE.

— SUPPOSED ANTIQUITIES. — NEGOTIATIONS. — CUSTOMS OF
THE COUNTRY. — AN ARAB FRIEND. — CONSTITUTION OF BONI.

— ELECTION OF THE KING. —ANCIENT CONGRESS. — FEAST OF
THE LOR DATA. OPINION OF SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES. — PRE-
SENT CONDITION OF BONL THE SI DENDRTNG SUCCESSION.

January 1. 1840. — ■ On this, the first day of a
new year, I will endeavour to give a succinct
account of my proceedings since my departure from
Singapore, on the 20th of November. Our passage
to this island has been most tedious. Many days
of light winds, succeeded by calms, brought us
after three weeks' labour in sight of Celebes ; and
the first glimpses of the mountain ranges are highly
picturesque, and the general appearance of the
country such as to make the first impressions ex-
tremely favourable. Bonthian hilL towards the ex-
treme southern point, has a bold and grand outline,
and terminates the line of mountains which stretch
from the northward. We were well received by
the Dutch officers, and I was much gratified at the
opportunity afforded me of visiting the celebrated

Digged by Google

GttP. HI] ASCENT OF LUMPU BATANG. 31

waterfall, which is truly magnificent from the ro- 184t> -
mantic scenery with which it is in every direction
surrounded, and from the charm attached to its
undisturbed solitude and complete seclusion. Then
we had shooting amongst the hills in the vicinity
of Bonthian, and rides about the country, in
all of which excursions I found my Bugis guide
and companion, Dain Matara, most intelligent
and useful.

We visited Senua, Lengang, and Lokar ; plea-
sant villages, situated in a country rich in na-
tural beauty and tropical vegetation ; the level
grounds being in a high state of cultivation for
the growing of rice, whilst other parts afforded
excellent pasture for cattle and horses. At Lokar
we first caught sight of the summit of Lumpu
Batang ; and, after much discussion with our guide,
induced him to proceed, and, on the afternoon of
the third day after our departure from Bonthian,
we had the pleasure of standing on the highest
peak of the mountain. On the 23d, we again
reached Bonthian in safety, and I had the satisfac-
tion of being the first European that had succeeded
in gaining the summit of this mountain.

From Bonthian I came on to Boela Komba,
near which there is plenty of game. The next
point is Tanjong Berak; the country to point Labu
belongs to the Dutch. Here, also, is the island
of Balunrueh 400 feet high ; off which are several
coral reefs, and among these we are now at anchor
in twenty-three fathoms.

Digged by Google

32 mr. brooeb's journal. [oup. hi.

1S4 °- January 3. — Sailing from Balunrueh on the

jjn.8. 1st, we reached Songi this morning, when I imme-
diately despatched a messenger to the rajah of
Lamatti offering to pay my respects.
Jan. s. January 5. — We sailed from Songi yesterday, and
are now amongst numerous reefs and shoals, thread-
ing our way with some difficulty. There is a speck
of an island, called Baliifu or Balupo, and the next
prominent object is the hill and point of Meru,
with a woody island off it. Somewhat inland stands
the hill called Patiwongi, which constitutes a good
landmark for this part of the bay. Leaving the
Lamatti we passed the district and stream of Sajuru,
next to which is that of Anchu, with another
small river, then Salomeko, and then Meru. To
the southward of Meru the land falls into a deep
but narrow bay. Anchored at Meru about half-
past five p.m., having outrun the nacodah's boat.
Breeze strong off the land, but smooth water.
Jan. 6. January 6. — At four A. m. set the sails, and
hove short, then waited for daylight, when we got
under weigh. Many reefs were to be seen all
around. Tanjong Salanketo is a low point, and at
intervals from it stretch three patches, called Ma-
marne. Our passage lay to the eastward of the
third patch, and between it and a large reef, which
extended along our starboard band as far as the
eye could reach. Passing within a short distance
of Mamarne, which seems to be composed of sand
and rock, we had ten fathom water, muddy bottom.
It is needless to enumerate every patch and reef in

Digged by Google

Chap. HI.] COAST OF CELEBES. 33

detail, as they will best be seen in the chart. From 184 °-
Salanketo the water becomes shallower, but outside
the headland the least depth we had was seven
fathoms, deepening again to ten on approaching
Patiro, and eight passing the pitch of the point at
half a mile distant. Off Patiro is a patch of white
sand and coral, the passage lying between it and
the point.

Having sailed by Patiro, we anchored in eight
fathoms, the breeze being strong dead ahead for
going into the bay, and the navigation, by the
nacodah's account, very intricate. The following
are the districts, or rajahates, continued from
Mora : Meru Bulu, Bulu, Bono, Murio, Salanketo,
Data, Kaju, Bonie (with a considerable town on
the shore), and Patiro. Patiwongi and Meru hills
seem the last of the spur which comes from the
Lutnpu Batang range ; but inland a chain of emi-
nences runs to the northward and westward. In
lieu, however, of the former range, a distant moun-
tain of great height becomes visible a considerable
distance off to the northward. The name is Lati-
mojong, and the natives say it is far higher than
either Lumpu Batang or "Wawa Karang. There
are two points at Patiro close together, and a short
distance further is Tanjong Churaene. The land
then trends into a bay to the westward, which is
low, and terminates with Tanjong Palettfe. Into
this bay our two native guides are now gone, to a
town called Bajue, which, according to them, is
near Boni. It is difficult, however, to reconcile

VOL. I. d

Digged by Google

mb. brooee's journal. [Chap. hi.

these accounts with the chart ; for on the latter,
though Patiro, Bajue, and Palette are all named,
they are placed far to the southward of Boni,
which is represented as being situated near the
mouth of the river of that name, forty miles
from Bajue, whereas our guides state it to be in-
land three hours' walk. Much depends on my
interview with the king. Dain Matara * is clever
and manages well, and I have sent the great man a
most polite letter, explaining my situation and my
wishes.

Our boat returned in the afternoon from Bajue,
after acquainting the King of Boni with our arrival
and wish to visit him.

He returned for answer, that he should be glad
to receive us, but that it would be previously ne-
cessary to call together the other different rajahs,
in order to have their opinion and advice. Dain
Matara gave me a curious and laughable account
of the reports current amongst the natives. Five
ships, it was represented, were on their way to

* " Dora Matara, my Bugig companion," rays Mr. Brooke in his Jour-
nal, " was a man well born; and, for kis country, affluent and educated.
He offered at Singapore to accompany me on this expedition, refusing
all pay or remuneration, and stating that the good name to be ac-
quired, and the pleasure of seeing different places, would recompense
Mm. At first, I most own, this disinterestedness rendered me sus-
picious ; but, conceiving that the greatest utility might accrue from
his assistance, I agreed to take him and his servant. Our long passage
served to make us well acquainted, and, I believe, raised a mutual
confidence. Dain, cheerful, good-tempered, and intelligent, gained
daily on my esteem; and, by the time we quitted Bonthian, I was
rejoiced that he bod accompanied me

Digged by Google

Chap, in.] TANJONG PATIRO. 35

Boni, to form an alliance with the king to expel 184 °-
the Dutch from the island, and, in case of refusal, " ~
to declare war on Boni itself. I was said to bring
five chests of silver for the chief, and three for the
other principal rajahs, and that my intention, or
rather the intention of the government, was ini-
mical to their independence. No wonder, there-
fore, that some hesitation was manifested, although
the king became assured that only one small
schooner, instead, of five ships of war, had arrived
in his dominions. At the same time, to show the
minute intelligence conveyed concerning us, it was
mentioned to Dain, that we had been to the top of
Lumpu Batang, and that we had put a written
paper into a bottle, which, after being carefully
sealed, had been left on the summit of the moun-
tain.

The same reports gave us some clue (whether
true or false I shall presently determine) to the
source of this information. A man on horseback
had arrrived from Komba to communicate this in-
telligence. Its truth would not surprise me ; but
I think I can triumph over these evil impressions
by a candid and open proceeding, and unravel the
dirty web which is set to keep me out of Boni.

January 7. — Wooding near Tanjong Patiro. Jan. J.
Strong breezes from the westward.

January 8. — Under weigh after breakfast; but, J«-8-
when we had proceeded a few miles, the weather
came on thick and rainy, which compelled us to
anchor. Strong breezes at W.N.W. with rain

Digged by Google

36 MB. BROOKE S JOURNAL. [Chap. IDT.

1840. during the rest of the day ; drove from our small
anchor, and let go the bower. After bringing to,
sent the long boat to Boni for provisions, which
came off in the evening. The people were kindly
treated, and orders had been received from the
king to supply our wants. The sabundar, at the
same time, expressed himself certain that the king
would receive us in a day or two.

Off Cape Patiro the flood tide comes from the
south, the ebb from the north, but not strong,
though the rise and fall are considerable.

Jan. 8. January 9. — Lay at anchor : rainy and bad.

Jan. 10. January 10. — At 5 P. m. got under weigh, and beat
in as near Bajue 1 as we could approach. There are
a few scattered shoals in and about our anchorage,
amidst reefs with fishing-stakes on them. Seven and
a half fathoms, soft bottom. Two hours' journey
inland from Bajue is the capital of Boni, the resi-
dence of the king and his principal people. As I
have before stated, a spur of the mountain range
of Lumpu Batang descends behind Sangi, and con-
tinues somewhat inland beyond Bajue. The coun-
Jry immediately close to the sea is low, and pro-
bably alluvial; further in, it rises into hills, and
terminates in the above-mentioned spur, which
may average about 2000 feet. Beyond Bajue the
continuous range is broken (as far as I can per-
ceive) j but detached mountains and hills stretched
beyond Tanjong Palette, and probably join the
chain of Latimojoug. Tanjong Palette, which,
with Patiro, encloses the Bay of Bajue, shows

Digged by Google

Chap. III.] BAT OF BAJui. 37

exactly like an island when it first appears, and 184 °-
a person not entering the bay might conclude it
to be one, as the land to the westward of it re-
cedes and is quite low. Palette is wooded and
superior in elevation to the adjoining coast.

It is needless to remark here the extreme defects
of our existing charts, which are so incorrect in
latitude as to make it very doubtful whether the
bay has not been laid down from native inform-
ation. Some names are right, but the situations
are often forty or fifty miles from their true places.

After breakfast I sent a boat ashore, and was
provoked, on its return, to find that my letter,
which was to have been forwarded two days ago,
had been sent back, with a polite message that it
could not be delivered before I met the king.

No time could be specified when the inter-
view would be granted, and I was merely informed
that in ten or twelve days it was probable that
the various people summoned might be gathered
together. I have not been idle, however, since my
arrival off the coast, in collecting information ; and,
being convinced that a sinister influence is at work
to delay, or even prevent, my meeting the king, I
am resolved to proceed at once on my voyage after
a final interview with the sabundar and interpreter.
On a future occasion, I propose detailing the particu-
lars I have collected concerning the condition and
politics of Boni ; and in the mean time, by leaving
them to muster their barbaric state, I shall show
them, at all events, that my wish to visit the king

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [Chap, hl

arose purely from the alleged, and not any hidden,
motive. The interview would only have been
gratifying, as far as I am personally concerned,
because it would have allowed me to see portions
of the country and to seek for Hindu remains
which rumour states exist in this vicinity. One
or two natives tell me they have heard that there
is a large excavation under a hill, full of figures
of men and beasts. To see this would have grati-
fied me much, as, if it exist, it probably bears some
resemblance to Elephanta and other similar caves.
I can procure no guide to the place ; but could I
find a man acquainted with .the locality, it is not
the Boni king who would keep me out.

January 11 At daylight sent the long boat

ashore with the interpreter, Mr. Poons, to insist
on the sabundar's receiving my letter to the king.
Mr. Poons, however, in his usual manner, remained
on shore until eleven o'clock, gossiping, and then
brought back the letter, having been talked over
to forget his instructions. I again despatched him,
with more positive orders, and he continued ashore
till dusk, the sabundar having during the interval
set off for Boni. About five o'clock, however, I
was favoured with a visit from an Arab, a quick
intelligent fellow, extremely civil, and my very good
friend. He explained to me the customs of the
country — .the invariable rule that there must be
a muster of all the king's relations and chiefs
before a stranger could be admitted to an au-
dience — the disinclination of the tomarilolan, or

Digged by Google

Chap. III.] ELECTION OP THE KING OF BOOT. 39

prime minister, to receive any Englishman, he ,Ma
being devoted to the Dutch interest — his great
influence over the king — the folly of presenting
any letter through him — and, finally, offering to
convey the letter privately to the rajah pangawa.

Not being at all assured of my visitor's good
faith, and quite certain that he was on board to
observe and to report, I continued very guarded,
and certainly, where a man has nothing to conceal
he makes an excellent diplomatist. In conclusion,
after a very long conversation, he said he had been
sent by the pangawa, who would deliver my letter
secretly to the king, as both were anxious to see
me, and only deterred by the minister. It was
agreed that I should sail in the morning, and,
anchoring at some distance, await his coming. To
all this I readily consented, as it might work good,
and could do no harm. I learnt, moreover, that
there was a cave such as I have described, and the
name Mampo. Mr. Poons having returned with
the unfortunate letter, it was delivered to our
Arab guest, who, after drinking some glasses of
claret, and smoking divers cigars, took his leave,
with promises to see us again to-morrow evening,
or the day following.

The state of Boni, now the most powerful in
Celebes, is of recent origin, and presents the
curious spectacle of an aristocratic elective mon-
archy. The king is chosen by the aru pitu, or
rajah pitu, or seven men or rajahs. The aru
pitu, besides being the elective body, hold the

Digged by Google

MB. Brooke's JOURNAL. [Cur. m.

great offices of state, and thus, during the lifetime
of a king of their own choice, continue the re-
sponsible rulers of the country. The tomarilalan
is prime minister and treasurer ; and, though not
a member of the elective body, is the sole medium
of communication with the king. Upon the death
of one of the aru pitu, his successor is appointed by
the remaining six ; so that, in fact, the aristocratic
body not only elects a king, but is likewise aelf-
elective.

From this form of government it is evident that
the entire power rests with the aru pitu as long as
they are agreed amongst themselves ; but as it
often, and we may conclude generally, happens
that they are divided, the majority is not sufficient
to carry a question. During the lifetime of the
king, the deciding voice rests with him, should the
aru pitu not be unanimous ; but in cases of elec-
tion to the sovereign power, the decision becomes
more difficult, and the tomarilalan, though he
nominally becomes king pending the period of the
election, seldom has power to decide between the
contending parties. A general assembly is then
convened of all the inferior rajahs of the country
and the influential men who hold office in the
different provinces, and the voice of this popular
assemblage greatly influences, though it does not
decide, the election. Each party by this public
appeal tests its strength, and the weaker is fain to
give way; often, however, the final appeal is to
the sword, or the question is delayed from time to

Digged by Google

Cup. m.] GOVERNMENT OF BONI.

time, the powers of government being carried on
by the aru pitu, with the tomarilalan at their "
head, until a change is effected in the sentiments
or circumstances of the adverse factions.

Sometimes this delay has been known to extend
to two or three years, and the final settlement
made without the occurrence of a civil war. The
election concluded, the rajah of Boni, or, accord-
ing to his native title, patamankowe, becomes the
head of the state, without equal; and in this
respect the kingdom of Boni differs from Wajo,
as I shall hereafter show. But although the su-
preme head, the patamankowe, cannot act inde-
pendently of the aru pitu ; questions of peace or
war, of internal policy, the administration of jus-
tice, and all the exigencies and acts of govern-
ment, are referred to this council, the king only
giving the final deciding voice when they differ
amongst themselves.

Besides this aristocratic form of internal govern-
ment, it was once the custom to hold an assembly
or congress of the different Bugis rajahs and coun-
cils, which decided all questions of dispute, con-
cluded alliances offensive and defensive, and settled
many questions of contested succession which tended
to produce a general rupture. Unfortunately, how-
ever, this congress is no more.

"We perceive the rudiments of improvement, a
glimmering of better things, in this constitution of
Boni ; hut we must not for an instant suppose that
it works any benefit to the community generally:

Digged by Google

MB. BHOOKE S JOUBHAL. LCh*f. HI.

an irresponsible and self-elective aristocracy rules
with as despotic and corrupt a sway as any monarch ;
and from my information I am led to conclude
that life and wealth are as insecure as in any other
Malayan state, and the people as greatly oppressed.
The popular assembly, however, though consisting
only of a minor aristocracy, shows that there is
some check upon public acts, though private wrongs
may be committed with impunity ; and we are led
to hope that the spirit of inquiry and discussion
thus generated, may spread to the lower orders as
well as the middle classes. I cannot, however,
help feeling a deep interest in this Eastern people,
who have advanced to the faint development of a
public voice, who have made their monarchy elec-
tive, limited the authority .of the sovereign, and,
like Venice, entrusted the powers of government to
a council of seven. We may trace here ODe of the
progressive steps of Europe towards better institu-
tions ; and amongst a bold, enterprising, and com-
mercial nation, we might hope, if left to themselves,
that they would advance in the right path.

Those whom I have consulted are positive in
their statements, that no ceremony, such as described
by Sir Stamford Raffles, as the feast of the lor
dara, or feast of blood, exists now, or has in their
belief or knowledge ever existed. These Bugis
shrink at the bare idea of eating the hearts of their
enemies, and the tempting addition of lime and salt
seems by no means to reconcile them to the repast.
War being decided on, each chief calls his fol-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. HI.] BUGIS AND MALAYS OF 8AME STOCK. 43

lowers together, and leads them to battle. The lg4a
patamankowe himself, on serious occasions, takes
the field in person, no law existing to prevent him ;
but the practice is rapidly falling into disuse. The
discrepancies between Sir Stamford Raffles' s accounts
and mine may probably arise from his having based
bis views on the state of Goa, or Makassar, instead
of Boni. I am unable, however, to reconcile Sir
S. Raffles's opinion, when he avers, page 145., in his
Memoirs, that, " the Bugis and Makassar nations,
like the Javanese, are perfectly distinct from the
Malays," with his subsequent declaration, page 239.,
that, " the Malay resembles the inhabitant of Cele-
bes very closely both in features and form, in his
moral character, his dress, and his occupations;
though in every thing he is his inferior — a lower
caste of the same character and people." According
to Marsden, he resembles him in language likewise ;
and no wonder he should be like him in all these
particulars, since the Malay, according to the tradi-
tion quoted by Sir Stamford, sprung from the Bugis.
They are one and the same people ; how, then, are
they perfectly distinct nations ?

Whatever credit we may choose to attach to this
tradition of the time of Sawira Gading, the roving
heaven-descended hero, we must at least confess
that the Bugis and the Malays are originally from
the same stock, alike in dress, habits, features, and
language.

The foregoing brief account of the government
of the Bugis country of Boni, is no unfit intro-

Dignbd by Google

44 hb. brooee's journal. [chap. hi.

1840. duction to its present condition and prospects.
Going back for some time (probably about a period
of ten years), we shall find the Dutch and Bugia
nations inimical to each other, and frequently at
war. At that period arose a contest for the suc-
cession to the country of Si Dendring, near the king-
dom of Wajo, between two brothers ; the elder by
name Lappa Tongi, or by title the datu lompola,
and the younger, Lappa Gnorisan. The right of the
question I shall decide at some future time; but
the result of this dispute was a war in which the
Dutch sided with Lappa Gnorisan, and the present
tomarilalan took part with Lappa Tongi. The con-
sequence of course was, that Lappa Gnorisan became
the devoted servant and follower of the Dutch,
who, faithful to their ally, advanced his interests
in Si Dendring. I am not aware what immediate
results sprang from the last contest ; but certain it
is, that Lappa Gnorisan has gained many advan-
tages over his elder brother, and possesses all the
district of Si Dendring. The struggles between
the brothers have occupied a considerable time ;
and during this period, the tomarilalan having
spent a year at Makassar, became by some unac-
countable means the firm friend of the Dutch.
His conversion to their interest has greatly altered
the condition of the struggle for Si Dendring, and
has likewise given the Netherlands government a
firmer hold on this country than it ever before
possessed.

Digged by Google

TONJONG PALETTi:. 4S

CHAP. IV.

T0NJONG PALETTE.— THE ORANG RAJOW. NEGOTIATIONS CON-
CERNING THE LETTER. — BAILING DIRECTIONS.— A WAJO HAN'S
ADVICE. — PERSECUTION OF THE NATIVES. — INTERVIEW WITH
THE RAJAH FANGAWA, — CONVERSATION WITH HIM. — DE-
SCRIPTION OP THE RAJAHS. — STRIKING APPEARANCE OP THE
NATIVE FLEET. — QUARRELS OF NATIVES. — APPEARANCE OF

COAST. — DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATION. BAT OF PENEKE.

FORMATION OF LAND, — MAGNIFICENT COSTUME. — HORBEMAN-
Sim* OF THE RAJAHS.

January 12. — Got under weigh, and beat about 1840.
a short time, but came to, as I liked not the look of ~Z ~
the passage round Tonjong Palette. In the evening
went to the point, which is cut off from the main
by a small inlet. This island and point are com-
posed of coral of different ages, deposited in irre-
gular waves, each with its intermediate valley
evidently formed by water. Here and there, amid
coral wells, are basins. The height of the island
is about forty or fifty feet, and the whole is covered
with trees. A soaking tropical rain drenched us
on our return.

January 13. — "Wind dead ahead. ApartyofBajow - ,an - "■
came aboard, and, since the visit of our Arab friend ,
many natives have come off. The Orang Bajow
resemble the Bugis and Malays. They have no
country, live in boats, carry on a trade in tortoise-
shell, beche de mer, &c. They possess no distinct
written characters, but their oral language is dif-

Dignbd by Google

46 mh. bhooke's journal, [chat, iv.

1840. ferent from the Bugis, though, as far as I can
perceive, strongly resembles it and the Malay in
structure. They say they have books of laws (on-
dang ondang), written in the Bugis character, and
a tradition that they originally came from the
kingdom of Luwu. I hope to see more of them,
and get some of their books, as well as a good
vocabulary of their language.

In the evening came our Arab, Seid Mahomed.
The negotiation progresses favourably, but slowly ;
and I shall proceed, likewise, as soon as I can.
The pangawa longs to see us; the young rajahs
desire it greatly. The letter has been read, and
the patomankowe informed of its contents. The
tomarilalan is alone ignorant of this affair. I pro-
pose proceeding, however, when I can.

Jan. is. January 15 — Dain accompanied Seid Mahomed
ashore the evening before last, and returned to-day,
with no satisfactory intelligence. There is much
talk, with many rumours concerning us. It is cer-
tain the pangawa wishes us to be received, but the
superior power of the tomarilalan prevents it. The
weather rainy and blowing, so we could do but
little elsewhere ; nevertheless, I am tired of these
delays, and conceive they may be only so many
Btratagems to detain me. I amended my previous
information by a more correct list of the ana pitu.*
The tomarilalan is not one of them, but a ba-

* 1. Am Ujong; 2. Aru Tannetf: ; 3. Am Timojong; 4. Am Mjv-
chege; 5. Aru Tnh; 6. Am Pouching. Each, in case of absence,
is able to appoint a proxy, or Balawatan,

Digged by Google

Chap. IV.] 'ANCHOR OFF CHINRANA RIVER.

lancing power, and the medium of communication
between them and the king. It seems, however,
that the power of the aru pitu is decayed, while
that of the tomarilalan has increased; and I can
easily credit this from the absolute sway the present
prime minister appears to exercise.

January 16 — Unpleasant morning. Inthe after-
noon it cleared, when I got under weigh, and beat
with a light breeze through the passage between
Lakatampah and two smaller shoals near the shore.
There is five and six fathom water through ; but
the passage is not more than three quarters of a
mile wide, and its approaches are straightened by
shoals near the shore. Passing Palette at a mode-
rate distance, in from five to seven fathom water,
the low point of Lowni appears in sight. From
Palette you must not steer to the eastward of
Lowni, as there is a patch of rock which lies a
little out to the northward and eastward. "We
did not see it. Short of Lowni is the river of
Chinrana, off which we anchored. The town is
some distance up the stream; but the straggling
village of Latonro stands close to its mouth.

January 17. — Off Chinrana river. At 5 P. M.
despatched Dain in the gig for Wajo. At the
mouth of the Chinrana he was stopped, however,
under threats of being fired upon if he tried to
proceed. Accordingly he returned. I sent my
long boat for water, and she is yet absent. Shortly
after the boat's return, an old Wajo man of respec-

Dignbd by Google

48 mr. brookb's journal. [chap. iv.

1640. tability came off, and advised me to proceed to
Peneke, in the territory of Wajo. If he succeeds
in getting us a man to act as guide, it will be
my best plan, though the determined hostility of
the Boni court rather inclines me to set them at
defiance.

A very fresh breeze sprang up in the forenoon.
The long boat returned, having got water ; but, in
consequence of the sea's rising, our old Wajo
hajji was unable to go ashore in his canoe. To-
wards evening, the wind moderating, I sent him in
the long boat to a small stream in the bight of the
bay. They were received, however, with the same
hostility as at the mouth of the river, and instantly
ordered off; and the poor hajji, on account of
having been guilty of boarding the schooner, was
not permitted to land. At every point they seem
to have raised the population against us ; prepos-
terous stories are spread abroad concerning our bad
intentions ; and half a dozen Bugis prahus, return-
ing from Singapore, are magnified into a hostile
squadron. Besides this, we are accused of spread-
ing contagion through the country ; so that wherever
we have landed, hundreds of men are asserted to
have died of disease. My patience is greatly tried
by this petty persecution, and forbearance almost
forsakes me. To secure my little remaining stock,
however, I shall proceed to-morrow to Peneke,
which is on the sea-coast of the Wajo country.

How different are one's feelings in a state of

Digged by Google

Chap. IV.] INTERVIEW WITH THE RAJAH PANGAWA. 49

calm, from what they are when roused hy con- 18 *>.
tinned opposition and insult ! yet I must ever
stamp it on my mind, ever and ever recur to the
same just principle, that any collision with these
poor people would be as barbarous as unjustifiable.
It rests with me alone to forbear. AH about me
would plunge forward, take and give offence, and
cause the shedding of blood, and innocent blood.
Patience, patience, then I patience !

January 18. — Chinrana. Our horizon again Jan. is.
cleared this morning, on the arrival of Seid Mahomed
with intelligence that orders had been issued to allow
our boats to enter the river and proceed to Wajo ;
and that the rajah pangawa intended making a
hunting party, when we could meet without ob-
struction. Dain Matara accordingly accompanied
the Arab ashore, in order to ascertain the truth
of his news, and likewise to proceed to Boni.
The civility of the people proves the correctness
of the first statement, and the other may likewise
happen.

January 1 9. — At dusk our ambassadors returned. Jm. i».
Dain had seen the rajah pangawa, and been well
received. I am expected to-morrow, and am to
meet this chief near Palette.

January 20. — Started for Palette with a fresh j M . 20.
breeze. At the far mouth of the creek which isolates
this point, we found the corUge of the rajah. Fifty
or sixty boats of various sizes, with a vast train of
attendants, surrounded us; and, after a brief delay,

Digged by Google

50 ME. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cup. IV.

184a ur boat was taken alongside the pangawa's barge,
into ■which I stepped. The usual opening com-
pliments were exchanged, the usual nothings were
gone through, and a pause took place. I then
thought I might get to closer quarters, and ex-
pressed my pleasure at thus meeting him by chance,
as I wished to declare to him in person that I was
unconnected with any government, and had no
object in visiting his country, except the wish of
seeing what was new or interesting. This afforded
him an opening, and he began to talk, or rather to
sift me as much as lay in his power. The questions
of a native are so curious a jumble of ideas that I
shall give this conversation.

"What pleasure could you take in coming bo
far?"

I replied, that it was difficult for him to under-
stand how much Englishmen liked going to different
places ; that all Englishmen travelled ; many, like
myself, kept vessels to visit foreign countries.

" Do you receive any pay ?"

"No."

" Do you trade ?"

» No."

"When in England, did you not trade?"

" No."

" How do you live, then ? "

" I have a fortune of my own."

" Then you must be a relation of the queen ? "

" I have not that honour."

Digged by Google

Ca*f. IV.] CONVERSATION WITH THE RAJAH.

" Which is the stronger nation, England or Hol-
land?"

" Certainly," I replied, " England."

" Are they friends ?"

" Yes."

14 Russia is a very strong nation?"

11 Yes."

" Is she as strong as England ?"

" She is powerful; but, in my opinion, England
and France are the two strongest nations."

" What became of Bonaparte after the English
made him prisoner?"

" He died at St. Helena."

I added, " He was a man of great ability and
power, but very ambitious, which ruined him. He
must have been very powerful; for, though the
French had nothing to do with these countries, he
extended their name even here."

" How came it that the English gave back Java
and the other countries to the Dutch after taking
them ? " I explained that the English took them
from the French ; and when peace was made in
Europe, gave them to the Dutch.

" Do not the Dutch pay tribute for them ?"

" By no means."

This and much more took place, showing some
shrewdness mixed with a perfect confusion of events,
the past and the present being strangely huddled
together in his head. The rajah pangawa is a man
of rather short stature, stout built, very dark, and

11, Google

mr. brooke's joukhal. [chap. it.

with a very inexpressive countenance; his age,
about forty-five; his manners are by no means
pleasing, though civil j and his talents, I should say,
are nothing above the common run of those about
him. Dain Palawa, his relation, was with him ; a
younger and better-looking man, with an air of
dandyism in his dress and appearance; and a coun-
tenance exhibiting much quickness and shrewdness,
with a strong unpleasant expression of cunning.
The chiefs generally were dressed in cloths of dark
colours. Some of their boats, or rather, long
canoes, pulled fifteen paddles, and were ornamented
at the stern and bow with carved wood. The
small sailing boats had outriggers of wood, which,
weighted with men, enabled them to carry a sail
of enormous size. The mass of men collected
on the occasion gave me the impression of being
stout and well-built, but not good-looking. Their
number might be about 500 or 600, and the con-
trast to our small party was striking. Our long
boat, armed with her two swivels loaded with
grape and canister, blunderbusses, muskets, pistols,
and cutlasses, would, however, have made sad
havoc amongst them if they had attempted any
treachery. A painter might have been pleased with
the scene of our meeting. The number of native
boats, some sailing, some paddling — the various
flags — the denBe group on the shore, and in the
midst our little English boat, with her ensign
flying, surrounded by dozens of the native prahus —

Digged by Google

Chaf.it.] messages fbom lappa tongi. 5;

the dark foliage of the trees, and the flitting and 18 *°-

Bcreaming of cockatoos, unaccustomed to this in-
vasion of their resorts — presented to the mind the
picture of a distant and little-known land. On
taking my leave, I requested that I might have an
escort to visit the cave of Mampo, a curiosity of
old times which I much desired to see. I was told,
however, that it was not in the pangawa's power to
grant my request, but he would mention it to the
king.

Beating up, after the interview, from Palette to
Chinrana, we carried away the mast of the long
boat, and consequently had a tough pull, arriving
aboard at sunset. Awaiting us was a boat from
Wajo, bearing a letter from the rajah Lappa Tongi,
full of expressions of welcome, and regretting
that he could not come in person, on account of
the illness of his mother, the ranee of Tulla Ten-
dring. I received much information from the
intelligent nakodah, who brought this communi-
cation; but, as his authority is not conclusive, I
shall postpone mentioning the affairs of Wajo
until I have the best informants and the means
of personal inquiry.

January 21. — Again I despatched our boat with Jan. 21.
Dain to Tulla Tendring; and, in the evening, he
returned, having met a fresh mission from Lappa
Tongi with a second letter, saying that his mother
was at the point of death, and advising me to pro-
ceed to Peneke, in the territory of Wajo. It is

Digged by Google

54 MB. BROOKE'S JOTJENAL. [Cur. IV.

1840. clear that the rajahB of Wajo look to me for assist-
ance, and think me able to perform far more than
is in my power : should I find their cause just, such
assistance in advice as I may be able to afford they
shall have, short of any personal interference in their
quarrel ; but it must be explained to them, beyond
a Bhadow of doubt, that I am unconnected with
government. This must be forcibly and ruddy done,
for all natives are, in spite of general assurances,
apt to give you credit for being a secret agent, and
are willing to act on this false impression.

The flood-tide at this season scarcely checks the
reflux of water. Leaving the anchorage of Mara-
luatu, we sailed along outside the fishing stakes,
which extend beyond Tonjong Lowni. This point
is low; and, at a reasonable distance, the navigation
is clear, with soundings of eleven or twelve fathoms.
Beyond point Lowni is the river of the same name,
and a second larger entrance, called Ky-eh. Be-
yond Ky-eh are two or three shoals, which must
be passed outside, or to the eastward ; and at
Laboto the anchorage is in seven, six, or five
fathoms. The land beyond Chinrana is low and
alluvial ; and at Laboto, a level plain of many miles
in extent, covered with long green grass, has evi-
dently been gained from the ocean. Indeed, the
entire western shore of the bay bears marks of
encroaching on the sea; and the number of shoals
driven up by the S. E. monsoon, as well as the de-
posit of the rivers, gives reason to conclude that the

Digged by Google

Crap. IT.] BAT OF PENEKE. 65

progression of time will convert this deep bight into 184a
dry land, by these ceaseless, though scarcely visible,
causes.

January 23. — Waiting in vain for a Peneke pilot J«n. as.
who had promised to come, nothing occurred:
weather squally and unpleasant. Laboto is the
last village in Boni, the boundary between that
country and Wajo being about a mile or two to
the northward.

January 24. — Sailed for Laboto; keeping away J*»- a*.
to westward to avoid the shoal of Batu Mano.
Standing out too far, however, having no pilot, we
got into four fathoms, on the extensive shoal of La-
katompa. Kept on the shoal some time, with sand
and rocks under our bottom. Bore up, and run-
ning to the southward, got into deep water ; again
hauled our wind, and stood in to windward of
Tanjong Setange, and the village of the same
name. We stood on in 17, 16, 14, down to h\
fathoms, where we anchored between the shore and
shoal of Lakatompa.* A vessel steering along the
coast must keep a good offing, in order to avoid the
shoal of Batu Mano, which lies to the northward of
Laboto, and haul in again for the point of Setange,
into the passage between the shore and the shoal of
Lakatompa. This last reef is of considerable ex-
tent, composed of sand, with masses of rock. The
passage in shore is wide and clear; and one or
two shoals, lying near the beach, are easily dis-

* This tune signifying, as far u I could understand, % wall, or

Digged by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [cup.it.

cernible in moderately clear weather. In the after-
noon sent out a boat to sound our way into Penek£
Bay.

January 25. — Came to anchor in Peneke Bay,
after working in. There are two or three patches
which must be looked out for, lying well out, and
rather over towards the northern point

January 26. — Peneke is situated three hours' sail
up a small shallow river. The shores of the bay
are entirely composed of mangroves, behind which
is a grassy plain, similar to that at Laboto. The
stream, on reaching the low mangrove shore,
finds its way out in numerous channels. In the
evening I went up one of these to the village of
Lamarna, and received intelligence that the rajah
Lappa Tongi had arrived at Doping, another vil-
lage on another stream. An inferior rajah, old
and given to opium smoking, was sent to us, and
I brought him ou board. The poor old gentleman
was affected by the slight motion of the vessel,
and a heavy rain caused his attendants to pass a
miserable night on deck.

January 27. — Our much-desired interview with
the chiefs has taken place, and nothing could be more
kind and affable than our reception. The village
of Doping is situated at the verge of the grassy
plain which stretches as far as the eye can reach
in every direction, and, as I have before observed,
terminates towards the sea in low mangrove
swamps. Here may be seen the formation of land,
from the time it first emerges from the sea at low

Digged by Google

Ch*f. IV.] INTERVIEW WITH THREE RAJAHS. 57

water, through its progressive stages. First, the 1M0 -
low sand bank. Next, the young mangrove shoots
sprouting out in the sterile and water-covered soil.
Thirdly, the twisted roots of the same tree exposed
to the action of the tides ; freshness and verdure
above, but without resting-place for man's foot.
Fourthly, the gradual accumulation of soil amid
the mangrove roots, and the trees large and of
many years' growth. Fifthly, the soil emerging
above high-water mark, gives nourishment to a few
other trees and shrubs, besides the mangroves.
Lastly, the full-grown forest, or bare plain, as it
were by man's intervention, presents itself.

January 28. — I may pause here to give a brief j u , as.
account of the rajahs who came to meet me at the
village of Doping. First and foremost was the
Rajah Lappa Tongi *, the claimant of the country
of Si Dendring. He is about forty-five or forty-
eight years of age ; of a melancholy countenance,
and grave demeanour. His dress was magnificent,
composed of puce-coloured velvet, worked with
gold flowers : the trousers, rather loose, of the same
material, reached half-way down the calf of the leg,
and were fastened by six or eight real gold studs.
The baju (or jacket), buttoned close up, was fas-
tened with the same material at the throat, and
down the breast, and each sleeve had a row of
golden buttons up the fore-arm. A blue gold-em-
broidered sarong, or kilt, was round his waist,

* Or, more properly, the datu lompola.

Digged by Google

58 mb. brooke's journal. [cup. it.

1S40. over a handsome gold and jewelled kris ; and on
~~ his head a light scull-cap of gold, neatly and ela-
borately carved.

The other two rajahs* were richly dressed in
cloth of gold; and as the three advanced to meet
me, surrounded by their numerous and wild-looking
followers, it was a novel and pleasing sight. After
our cold reception in Boni, their kindness was
highly gratifying, and raised my hopes of seeing the
interior of the country. They proposed to take me
to Tesora the day after to-morrow ; and to-morrow
the chiefs are to visit the vessel, and in the evening
show me a deer-hunt.

January 29. — The rajahs came on board, and
were well pleased, though rather sick. They had,
in going back, a rough pull against a strong breeze
and chopping sea; andwere,Idoubtnot, very glad
to find themselves once more on dry land. It was
late before we got on the grass plain looking out for
deer, and we had not the good fortune to find any.
Their style of riding is novel, and sportsmanlike.
A light bridle, like a bearing-rein, is the sole equip-
ment of the steed ; and the horseman, twisting his
hand in the mane and at the same time grasping
the bridle, engages in the chase. They ride bare-
backed, and in the right hand carry a light hunting-
spear, with a noose at the butt end, ready to be
passed over the deer. They indulge in no display ; no
prancing, no curvetting, no needless exertion for the

* Pcurang and Pajumpamah.

Digged by Google

Chap. IV.] H0BSEMAH8HIP OF THE RAJAHS.

horse, but remain as steady and quiet whilst beat-
ing for the game, as the oldest sportsman in England.
The opportunity I had was not quite sufficient to
judge of their merits ; and I will therefore postpone
the account of a hunting-field till I have seen them
in chase of a deer.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

EXTENT OF WAJO. — CONSTITUTION OF WAJO. — EIGHT OF LAND.

SLAVERY. — OBSERVATIONS OK THE GOVERNMENT. — REVIEW

OF CIVILISATION. — EUROPEAN DOMINATION. — DISPUTES CON-
CERNING SI DENDRING. PRIDE OF BERTH. — DOMESTIC MAN-
NERS. STATE OP MORALITY. EXCURSION DT WAJO.

NATIVE GREETINGS. BUGIS CURIOSITY. THE RAJAH'S BAN-
QUET. — COCKFIOHTING. — POLITICAL DISCUSSIONS. — CITY OF

TESORA, CUSTOMS OF THE BUGIS. — MAHNERB SIMPLICITY

OF THE NATIVES. — STRANGE CUSTOMS.

1840. pBNBKfc Bat. Having passed some weeks in the
Bugis country, and collected as much informa-
tion as lay in my power, I shall proceed, be-
fore copying the daily journal, to give a brief
account of the government, customs, religion, and
manners of Wajo, in order to render my narra-
tive more intelligible to the reader. The southern
limb of Celebes contains the four kingdoms of
Luwu, Wajo, Boni, and Soping. Of these Luwu is
the most ancient, and probably the parent state.
The fifth kingdom of Goa, or Makassar, has long
been under European domination ; and the country
of Si Dendring, formerly dependent on Boni, has
of late years risen into an independent kingdom.
The three states of Boni, Wajo, and Soping have
always been united in a strict and intimate league,
and heretofore (with occasional interruptions of
their good understanding) have acted as one state

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Digged by Google

Chat. V.] EXTEHT OF WAJO.

for the purposes of defence. The constitutions of
these three states hear some original resemblance.
Boni is the most extensive and powerful ; Wajo, the
bravest and freest in its institutions ; and Soping,
the last of the triple alliance, the least considerable.
It is of the country of "Wajo that I have at pre-
sent to write, having already detailed what in-
formation I could collect on the government of
Boni.

Wajo comprises a line of sea-coast from the
vicinity of Laboto nearly to the mountain of Lati-
mojong, where it joins the kingdom of Luwu. A
line drawn three miles northward of Laboto to the
same distance south of Lagusi, will nearly mark its
southern boundary ; and a few miles northward
is the capital Tesora. To the westward it is
bounded by Soping and Si Dendring ; and the great
Lake of Tapar-Ke-Rajah divides these kingdoms,
the territory of Wajo extending along the east
bank, that of Soping on the west ; the latter being
bounded on the north by the proper territory of
Si Dendring, at the upper part of the lake. This
boundary may generally be stated as running
from the vicinity of Latimojong towards the
south-west until it comes in contact, or nearly
so, with the head of the Tapar-Ke-Rajah. The
government of "Wajo is feudal, and comprised of
numerous rajahs, independent, or nearly so, living
in their own districts, possessing the power of life
and death, and each surrounded by a body of slave
retainers or serfs, attached solely to the fortunes of

Digged by Google

62 mr. brookb's journal. [chap. v.

1840. their maBter. A general form of elective govera-
ment, however, holds amongst them, which modifies
the arbitrary sway of the rajahs of fiefs, and ac-
knowledges, to a certain degree, the rights of free
men not of noble birth. This government consists
of bix hereditary rajahs*, three civil and three
military chiefs, one military chief being attached
to each civil one. With these six officers rests the
election of a head of the state, entitled the aru
matoah, who may be considered an elective mo-
narch, exercising during his reign all functions of
the chief magistrate, checking and controlling the
feudal lords, deciding cases of difference, and con-
ducting the foreign policy of the kingdom. Below
the six great chiefs, is a council, or chamber of forty
arangs, or nobles of inferior rank, who further
serve to modify the feudal state, and are appealed
to in all cases of importance or difficulty. The
rights of the freemen are guarded by three panga*
was, or tribunes of the people, one being attached
to each department of the state.

I may arrange the government thus : —

Aru Matoah,

elected by

the Six Hereditary Rajahs.

The Council of Forty.

Pangawa — Pangawa — Pangawa.

General Council.

The powers of these pangawas, or tribunes of

• 1. Rundrang Tulla Tendring; 2. Rundrang Tuwah; 3. Am
Beting ; and 4. Putotah ; 5. Filla ; and 6. Cliukaridi.

Digged by Google

Chap.V.] constitution op wajo. 63

the people, is considerable. With them only it !•*>■
rests to summon a meeting of the council of forty.
They possess the right of veto to the appointment
of an aru matoah. Their command alone is a
legal summons to war, no chief or body having
right, or even authority, to call the freemen to the
field. The census of the population and the appoint-
ment of freemen, as heads of towns or villages, are
in their hands, with many other privileges. The
election of these pangawas rests with the people,
and is generally hereditary. Each town and village
has a number of freemen called the orang tuah,
who administer its internal concerns, and are re-
sponsible to the chiefs for the dues in their power
to exact.

Besides the constitution of the government here
detailed, there is a general council of the people,
composed of the heads of villages and all the re-
spectable freemen, who are convened on extraor-
dinary occasions, to state their opinions and discuss
important questions, without, however, having the
power of arriving at a decision. It is necessary for
the council of forty to be unanimous in their de-
crees. Failing this, the general council is con-
vened through the pangawas, and the ultimate
decision of the question rests with the aru matoah,
or chief magistrate. The election of the aru matoah
is, as I have stated, in the six chiefs. His deposition
lies in the power of the aru beting alone, the civil
chief, who always performs the functions of the
aru matoah during an interregnum.

Digged by Google

mr. bbooke's journal. [ch*p. v.

The most powerful chief next after the six is the
rajah Penning, who holds the privilege of advising
or upbraiding the six rajahs, in case of any internal
dissensions among themselves. The territory at
large, with some exceptions, is under the govern-
ment of one or other of the three great wards or de-
partments ; though the first individually belongs to
rajahs of inferior rank, but often of great influence.
The right of the land rests with individuals, and
the lord of the fief has no legal right to call upon
the population to cultivate ground for his support.
There appears to be no right of taxation, and no
duty imposed upon trade or manufactures ; and the
rented lands may be cultivated with the consent of
the rajah, on payment of one tenth of the produce.
The wealth of all classes consists of slaves, or more
properly, serfs. Every freeman possesses, accord-
ing to his means, a certain number of men or women
who perform all the labour of tillage and domestic
drudgery. The serfs raise rice, catch fish, weave
sarongs for the use . of their master's household,
and the superfluous portion of them are required to
support themselves in the best manner they can.
Servitude, though so extensive that there are fifty
slaves or more to each freeman, is of the mildest
character, and the exportation or importation of
slaves is unknown. Certainly, there is no trace of
that horrid traffic, similar to what was carried on
in the Macassar territory, as described by Sir
Stamford Raffles, and which was probably created

Digged by Google

Chw.V.] govebkment of wajo. 65

to supply the wants of the Dutch and the native imo.
princes. "~ "

The slaves in the Bugis states are chiefly debtors ;
the greater part of them, however, have become
hereditary bondsmen during the lapse of time. A
freeman may be reduced to slavery, together with
his family, by incurring debts he cannot discharge,
or by the commission of some crime of magnitude,
in both which cases he loses with freedom every
political right and protection, and becomes the
property of a master, in whose hands rests the
power of life and death, of mercy or of cruelty.

From this review, it will strike us that the go-
vernment (or constitution) of Wajo, though ruled
by feudal and arbitrary rajahs, though cumbersome
and slow in its movements and defective in the
administration of equal justice between man and
man, yet possesses many claims to our admira-
tion, and bears a striking resemblance to the go-
vernment of feudal times in Europe, or rather
that period in the Low Countries when the rights
of free citizens were first acknowledged. I re-
gret, however, my being compelled to give many
details, which show that their practice is very
much at variance with their written laws ; and it
is a matter of still greater regret, that in that pro-
gressive and imperceptible march of improvement,
that growing importance which marks the pro-
sperity of young states, they are altogether wanting
or retrograding. Our judgment, however, of their
faults must be mild, when we consider that, amid

vol. I. *

Digged by Google

56 mr. brooke's journal. [rn*r. v.

1840. a ii the nations of the East — amid all the people
~ professing the Mahometan religion, from Turkey

to China, — the Bugia alone have arrived at the
threshold of recognised rights, and have alone
emancipated themselves from the fetters of des-
potism.

We cannot fail to admire in these infant institu-
tions the glimmer of elective government, the ac-
knowledged rights of citizenship, and the liberal
spirit which has never placed a single restriction
upon foreign or domestic commerce. That a people
advanced to this point would gradually progress if
left to themselves and uncontaminated, and un-
oppressed, there is every reason to believe; and in
the decline of their circumstances, and the decay
of their public institutions, we may trace the evil
influence of European domination.

It is contended, and will always be contended,
that the location of a just and liberal Euro-
pean people amid uncivilised or demi-civilised
races, is calculated to advance the best interests of
those races by the diffusion of knowledge, the im-
partial administration of justice, the liberal prin-
ciples of government, and the increase of commerce:
the question is one the discussion of which would
require a space I cannot now devote to it; but
taking it in the most favourable point of view,
granting that a government is all it ought to be, let
it be asked, have any people ever been so civilised,
especially where the difference of colour stamps a
mark of inextinguishable distinction between the

Digged by Google

Chip. V.] HEV1EW OF CIVILISATION.

governing and the governed ? Is it not as ne-
cessary for states, as for individuals, to form a
distinctive character ? The vassalage of the mass,
like the dependence of a single mind, may form
a yielding, pliant, and even able character; but,
like wax, it retains one impression only, to be
succeeded by the next which shall be given. The
struggles of a nation, its internal contests, its
dear-bought experience, its hard-earned rights, its
gradual progress, are absolutely necessary to the
development of freedom. Any other mode, any
patent means, is but reducing a people from a
bad state to a worse, and, whilst offering protection
and food, depriving them of all that stimulus which
leads to the independence of communities. Has
any European nation ever been civilised by this
process ? I know of none. The downfall of Rome
was the first dawn of liberty to her conquered
provinces; and what struggles, what bloodshed,
what civil wars, what alternate advancement and
retrogression, have marked the strife of liberty
in our own country ! how slow has been its pace !
How severe the training which has impregnated
the mass with the desire as well as with the
knowledge of freedom ! Could this otherwise have
been ? can it ever be ? Is not dependence, how-
ever slight, an insuperable bar ? I should answer,
Yes. National independence is essential to the
first dawn of political institutions, and that can
only be effected in two ways : first, by the amal-
gamation of two races, the governing and the

Digged by Google

30 MR. BROOKES JOURNAL. [Chap.V.

1840. governed; or, secondly, by the expulsion of the
former. In the case of the dark races, the latter
is the only alternative ; and anybody who may not
like this philosophy, must go to the Penny Cyclo-
pedia, and look for one suited to his taste. It is
a question to which the lust of conquest, the love
of gain, the mass of benefit to individuals, conspire
to render men, as well as all governments, blind.
They rob a nation of its all, . of all that they hold
dear themselves, and give them a spangled robe
to cover their naked limbs ! The abstract question,
however (and this is little better), goes farther
back. The first principle must be sought in the
right of any existing generation to part with their
country. If such a right does not exist (and I
believe it does not, and never can), neither can the
right of acquisition exist; and the tenure of all
colonies, save those founded on uninhabited lands,
must rest on the right of conquest, which, in
reality, means the will and power of the conquerors.
The real consideration, however, is, are European
governments so constituted as to advance the inde-
pendence or the happiness of the native races?
Our knowledge of the past and the present must
decide for the future. What says the past ? What
is it but a record of horrors from which the
human mind revolts ? We have the picture of
innocent, and of comparatively happy, nations —
nations prosperous and hospitable, confiding in the
honour and integrity of Europeans. We seek them,
and they are no more. These nations have been

Digged by Google

Chap. V.] EUROPEAN DOMINATION. 6!

extirpated j their arts, their very language, lost I8W '
in the march of this monster colonisation which
now is to confer every benefit.

Turn from the South to North America, and
the progress of European colonisation, European
justice, European laws, European civilisation, has
been ineffectual to stay the march of European
ambition and European vice. The bold, the war-
like red man has withered beneath the contagious
example of drunkenness ; and, being pushed by the
strong hand of power beyond the fertile land
which God and nature gave him, their mighty
tribes dispersed and led away, and the wretched
remnants, degraded and outcast, live the football
of the freest nation in the world : their oppressors
are now American instead of English. We deplore
the fate of these unhappy nations : their existence
is but a shadow, their destruction complete, their
miseries ended, or almost so : the aggregate of
murder, their national destruction, is consummated,
and little individual misery survives it. May they
sleep in peace ! whilst we turn our indignation on
the perpetrators of even worse crimes, who add
slow torture and slavery to destruction.

Let us advert to the history of Africa. The
swelling sails of the European vessels were thought
to be the wings of some huge bird, and the white
men treated like gods by this race of rude but
hospitable savages. What has been the return ?

Our boasted territory in India, the best and
most uprightly governed of any European pos-

Dignbd by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [cbap. v.

session, can, after all, claim but negative advan-
tages. It is neither oppressive nor unjust, and the
people are moderately happy; but what advance
have they made daring the long period of our
sway? Are they more civilised than in the time of
Baber and of Akbar ? Are their minds more en-
lightened ? their political freedom more advanced ?
their religion less dominant or less bigoted? No:
though the English government has used the best
means to shake the dominion of priestcraft, it still
continues. The mass are certainly as ignorant as
ever ; ignorant of their own rights, content under
every or any government, so that they reap the
fruit of labour ; and, in this respect, are as low as
the African !

Lastly, I must mention the effect of European
domination in the Archipelago. The first voyagers
from the West found the natives rich and powerful,
with strong established governments, and a thriving
trade with all parts of the world. The rapacious
European has reduced them to their present con-
dition. Their governments have been broken up;
the old states decomposed by treachery, by bribery,
and intrigue ; their possessions wrested from them
under flimsy pretences ; their trade restricted, their
vices encouraged, their virtues repressed, and
their energies paralysed or rendered desperate, till
there is every reason to fear the gradual extinction
of the Malay races.

This is the historical record of the rule of Eu-
ropeans from their earliest landing to the present

Digged by Google

Cur. V.] EUROPEAN DOMINATION.

moment. The same spirit which combines the
atrocity of the Spaniard with the meanness of the
Jew pedlar, has actuated them throughout, receiving
only such modifications as time or necessity has
compelled them to adopt. Who that compares the
states of the Peninsula, Java, Sumatra, Borneo, or
Celebes, before and subsequent to the period of
European domination, but must decide on the supe-
riority of the former?

Let these considerations, fairly reflected on and
enlarged, be presented to the candid and liberal
mind ; and I think that, however strong the present
prepossessions, they will shake the belief in the ad-
vantages to be gained by European ascendency as it
has heretofore been conducted, and will convince
the most sceptical of the miseries immediately and
prospectively flowing from European rule, as gene-
rally constituted.

I have been led into a long digression, but by no
means an unnecessary one, as the state of the
Bugis at present is intimately connected with, and
influenced by, foreign interference. I must, how-
ever, delay the consideration of these matters until
I come to the details of their present political po-
sition. The encroaching and arbitrary spirit of the
rajahs is the source of the principal mischief in
Wajo, and the dissolute habits and unpunished
crimes of their followers produce the worst results.
Whilst there was an aru matoah at the head of affairs,
he was in a great measure able to check the out-
rages of the feudal nobles ; but, unfortunately, for

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKS'S JODBNAL. [Chap. V.

the last six years there has been no chief magistrate,
and during that time the evil effects of unlicensed
power have been accumulating in the country. By
the provisions of the state it requires the meeting
and consent of the six great chiefs to render the
appointment of an aru matoah legal, and the dis-
putes respecting the succession of Si Dendring
have rendered this impossible, each party refusing
their consent to the measures proposed by their
opponents. In case, however, of a minority re-
maining recusant for a length of time, it is in the
power of the aru beting, with the support of the
forty nobles and pangawas, to proceed to the elec-
tion ; but unhappily in this case, as the aru beting
is the head of the state during the interregnum, it
little accords with his interest to hasten the ap-
pointment. The aru beting, though acting as
aru matoah, neither takes the title, nor is admitted
to the privileges by the other Bugis states of Boni
and Soping ; and in the internal regulations of the
country he has his own party, and his own inter-
ests to serve ; and, the other rajahs following his
example, the people fall under the arbitrary and
irresponsible rule of every chief of pure blood who
possesses territory. The evil effects of this condi-
tion of things have been severely felt : large tracts
of ground formerly in cultivation are now deserted,
emigration drains the country of its population,
property is rendered insecure, wrongs are com-
mitted with impunity, and redress is hopeless,
whilst the poorer chiefs turn regular caterans, and

Digged by Google

Chap. V-] ANCESTRAL PRIDE.

live upon the plunder acquired by their followers.
One or two striking instances of this will be found
in my journal. These evils have almost all arisen
from the disputed succession above mentioned ; and
the same cause has latterly separated Boni and Sop-
ing from Wajo, as these two states have been in-
clined to side with the Dutch against the people of
Waj o ; and, until there be an aru matoah appointed,
there can be no hope, though the parties be ever
so willing, of a renewed good understanding. It
has been my desire, since I have become acquainted
with their affairs, to persuade the Wajo chiefs to
elect an aru matoah * ; but I cannot flatter myself
that I have succeeded in this attempt. The other
great object is to induce them to renew the former
good intelligence with their neighbour states, and
both in Wajo and Boni I find a sincere desire to
unite their interest.

As no nation grants greater privileges to high
birth, so no people are more tenacious of the purity
of their descent. They are as careful of their blood
as we are of that of our race horses, and the pure
blood once crossed is never cleansed from the stain.
The full blood is that of the chiefs ; and the de-
scendants by a father and mother, both thorough
bred, are called arang sangiin. A woman of pure
blood never can marry any but of her own class ;
but the men mix their blood in marriage with the

* Mr. Brooke received a letter from the chiefs of Wajo a year after
this was written, stating that, acting under the advice of their " White
Friend" the; had elected an aru matoah.

Digged by Google

74 mr. Brooke's journal. [Chap. v.

184a daughters of freemen, and this cross is denomi-
nated rajin or dain, the latter being a term affixed
to the name of the children. The descendants of
a rajah by a rajin, rank next to the pure blood,
and are termed rajin matassah, whilst the children
of a rajah by a slave are called anak charah.

The arang sangiin cannot intermarry with any
lower class. The same law obtains with respect
to the Rajin matassah, but has fallen into disuse,
and matches are now frequently contracted between
them and wealthy freemen, an encroachment which
will probably extend as the middle class become
more influential through their wealth. The fami-
lies of rich Nakodahs chiefly form this middle
rank ; an important body, who, from their greater
enlightenment and superior riches, are both re-
spected and looked up to by all classes. Polygamy
is allowed amongst the Bugis; but is practised
with restrictions unknown to other Mahometan
countries. Two wives seldom live in the same
house; and the number rarely exceeds three or
four. Their separate establishments are chiefly
supported by themselves, with occasional help from
their lords, though years may pass without any in-
tercourse between husband and wife. Divorce is
easily procured by the men ; and mutual inclina-
tion is a sufficient plea. In the case of the woman
there must be some ground of complaint ; and the
mere absence of the conjugal rites is not sufficient.
Concubinage is not common, prostitution almost un-
known ; and certainly, in these respects, as well as

d by Google

Chap. V.] MORALS OF THE BUGIS. 75

in the decency of the marriage condition, the Bugis i8*>-
are far superior to any other Eastern nation.* The ~~
importance attached to high blood has probably
been the cause that has prevented the confine-
ment of their women when they embraced the faith
of Islam. All the offices of state, including even
that of aru matoah, are open to women ; and they
actually fill the important post of government,
four out of the six great chiefs of "Wajo being at
present females. These ladies appear in public
like the men ; ride, rule, and visit even foreigners,
without the knowledge or consent of their husbands.
The privileges attached to pure birth are many and
important, and will readily suggest themselves,
amongst which may be stated the power of govern-
ing, the right of support, impunity from punish-
ment (save from crimes committed against their
own class), the power of punishing, &c.

This brief account of the constitution of Wajo,
will enable the reader more readily to understand
the journal which follows.

Jan. 30. — Leaving the vessel at half-past two, Jan. so.
we did not reach Doping till 5, A. M. Our party
consisted of Mr. Murray, Theylingen, M'Kenzie,
Spence, James Peter, Dam Matara, and myself.
No one was stirring when we arrived ; and, after
rousing them, much time was lost in arrangement

* The rajahs bare wive* of inferior rank ; but on marriage with
a woman of their own clam, these wives are divorced. Between
divorce and a fresh alliance, a period of three months must elapse.

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's joubnjll. [Ch**. v.

and preparation. We then mounted our steeda,
and the baggage being stowed on a buffalo, the
cavalcade, consisting of about thirty horsemen and
a crowd of foot, bent its way across the grassy plain
to the westward. This undulating prairie, covered
with a coarse grass and varied only by occasional
clumps of trees, continues without interruption to
Tesora, the present capital of Wajo. One hour
and a half from Doping is the small village of Pia-
paga, consisting of about twenty houses ; and three
hours, the village of Penrang. To the right and
left are seen several small hamlets, amongst which,
to the northward of Penrang, is the town of
"Wajo ; and to the southward and westward, that of
Lagusl, situated on the Sadang river, a large and
flourishing place. Our road was very muddy, in
consequence of the late heavy rains ; and our horses
were often up to their girths (or where their girths
ought to have been) in mud ; so by the time we
reached Tesora, we were little fitted to adorn the
procession which awaited us. On a slight emi-
nence, over which our route lay, some thousands of
people were collected, most of them armed, and
displaying various banners. Horsemen galloped
amid the multitude, their discordant yells and le-
velled muskets as we approached being more cal-
culated to create the suspicion of hostility than of
hospitality.

As we reached the summit a general dis-
charge, and a more general shout, greeted our

Digged by Google

Coat. V.] CUBIOSITT OF THE BDQIS PEOPLE.

arrival ; and for the remainder of our way to the
house prepared for us, we were surrounded by a
dense crowd, firing as fast as they could load,
the nearer to our persons the greater compliment.
Our journey was completed in four hours, which at
the rate of three miles and a half per hour, will
make the distance from Doping to Tesora about
fifteen miles, the direction being nearly west.

At our house the rajahs dismounted with us, and
we underwent the ceremony of eating sweetmeats,
and drinking hot water ; but when we began to
hope for rest and quiet, our troubles were only
commencing. The house was crowded with people,
a dense mob at the same time collecting without,
pleased and staring, whilst their poor victims,
stifled with heat, sat the gaze and wonder of a
Bugis multitude ! Hour after hour passed, the ra-
jahs took their leave, dinner was brought, but
without diminution of the annoyance. "When we
ate, they gaped with wonder at the lions feeding ;
when we lay down and tried to sleep, the crowd
pressed closer to look at our faces, particularly the
women. If we escaped out of the house, fresh hordes
were ready to follow our footsteps ; very civil in-
deed, but horribly curious; and so it continued
till midnight, and even after that we had some visi-
tors. The troubles of the day were succeeded by
those of the night; the crowds of men, by clouds
of musquitoes ; but fatigue and weariness enabled me
to get some sleep, despite their distressing attacks.

Digged by Google

mr. bbooke's journal. [Chip. v.

Jan. 31. — This day was consumed in visiting
the rajahs ; and at the house of rajah Penrang, a
collation was prepared for us, of which we partook,
sitting cross-legged. The cookery was excellent,
and the native dishes served up in small saucers,
as relishes. Each person haB a salver covered with
these dainties before him, with a quantity of rice,
the only distinction being that the tray or salver of
people of rank has a stand, whilst the crowd eat
with them placed on the ground. These dishes
are forced-meat balls of fowls or fish, broiled veni-
son, buffalo flesh minced and richly cooked with
cocoa-nut milk, a curry or stew, eggs prepared in
various ways, omelets, besides many others. No-
thing could exceed the kindness of these people and
of their chiefs ; and now the first burst of their
curiosity having subsided, we can better appreciate
their good intentions. In manners, they are well
bred, but without the polish of the Malays : they
indulge in loud merriment, the crowd of people
being as noisy and difficult to restrain as our own
countrymen.

After our repast we were conducted to the cock-
pit, a square railed space, within which the birds
fight. Only two men enter this pit. The birds are
weighed by hand. The spur resembles that used by
the Malays, seldom more than one being affixed.
The winning bird must peck his dead adversary
three times, or the bets are withdrawn; and when
a battle is won, a plate is handed round, in which

Digged by Google

Cmap. V.] DEATH OF AN OLD BAJAII. 79

the money lost is put, and divided amongst the lfl4a -
winners. I may refer to Marsden's work on Su-
matra for a detail of this and many other customs,
and only remark that the behaviour of the crowd
was most civil and decorous.

Feb. 1. — A visit from the young rajah Pajump- Feb. l.
aruah, and another invitation to the cockpit.
There was much political and unreserved discus-
sion of foreign domination. I contented myself
with saying that my sole reason for visiting their
country was to amuse myself, without any con-
nection with the British government. I professed
myself entirely ignorant of their government, but
urged upon them the folly of plunging into a war,
upon which they seemed determined. I postpone
the subject for the present ; but it appears certain
that the quarrel for the Si Dendring succession has
been, since 1832, the chief cause of all the agita-
tions throughout these states.

A few days previous to my arrival, the ranee of
Tulla Tendring* died, at an advanced age.

Tesora is a large straggling city, greatly in decay ;
the ancient boundary of which is marked by a forti-
fication, which embraces a space of several miles in
circumference, and occupies to the eastward a
slightly elevated ridge, and to the westward sinks
to a swamp. Not many years since, the main stream
of the Sadang river ran near the southern limit of

* The tide of these rajahs is Pata Mapalaka, pata being a prefix
common to all the high nobility. Her son Lappa Torgi is known by
the title of Da t u Lampola.

Digged by Google

ur. bbooke's joubnal. [coat. t.

the town, though it has now receded three miles or
more, leaving a deep but narrow channel bounded
by swamps. This has probably been the principal
reason of the decline of the town, the former pro-
sperity of which is proved by its great extent, as
well as by the remains of brick-built mosques and
powder-magazines. The houses are mostly large,
and well built, but old and tottering, and bear evi-
dence of the rapid desertion of the population,
which may now amount to about 6000 persona,
though the former limits must at least have con-
tained four times that number. The chiefs rarely
make this their place of residence, only meeting
here when convened for purposes of business.
There is nothing to be said in its favour; the
situation is bad, the water brackish, and the cir-
culation of air impeded ; it is very hot, swarms
with rats and musquitoes, and has the appearance
of being unhealthy. Robberies accompanied by
violence are said to be frequent, and the detached
houses and thick groves offer every facility for the
commission of crime.

Feb. 2. — The Datu Lampola, one or two other
chiefs, three pangawas, and the matoah of Tesora,
came at ten and stayed till three — a most un-
merciful visit, but necessary to be endured. I was
pleased by the freedom of the conversation, the
pangawas detailing their powers and privileges
without reserve. " If the rajahs wish to call the
people to war," they said, " they cannot do so
without our permission ; we are a free people"

Digged by Google

Cm*. V.] CUSTOMS OF THE BUGI3.

Whilst these unmerciful visitors were with me,
there arrived a huge despatch from Mr. B ■ ■ ■■-,
an . English gentleman residing in the country.
It was addressed to " The Commanding Officer of
the British Ships off Bajue." . In a private note he
requested, a BUpply of instruments, medicine, &c. ;
and in a public one stated that he had forwarded a
communication, addressed previously to the Dutch
governor of Makassar, which might give some
insight into the affairs of the Bugis states. I
glanced at it, and returned it, as it could not in
any way concern my visit.

I may here detail some of the customs find habits
of this people. The dress of the higher ranks is
rich and handsome; their more common costume
is a tight pair of trowsers, reaching half way down
the thigh ; and the sarong and bajo similar to the
Malays ; to which they invariably add a belt round
the middle, generally richly embroidered. The
kris is worn in this belt, and is longer than that
used by the Malays. On the fingers the men wear
a number of large rings ; but the stones in them
are rough, and appeared to be of little value. The
dress of the women is, phun ; and, in all respects,
they appear less fond of ornamenting their persons
than the men. A, sarong reaching to the feet, and
a muslin bajo worn loose, and showing all the bust
and bosom, compose the dress. The hair, long
and black, is generally drawn tight off the face,
h la Ckinoise, and turned up behind. Women of
rank, and the females of their household, wear the

VOL. i. * G

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE 3 JOURNAL. LCbap. V.

thumb-nail long, and enclosed in a preposterously
long case. The manners of the ladies are easy and
self-possessed, but listless and indolent. The men
of the better class partake of this indolence and
elegance of manner ; but the lower orders of both
sexes are noisy, boisterous, and inquisitive ; and
the followers of the rajah, I should say, overbearing
and insolent. The Bugis are said (and I believe
with much truth) to be the greatest bullies and
boasters in the Archipelago ; at the same time,
they are the bravest and most energetic race ; and
the freedom of their institutions encourages the
open expression of their sentiments. Since my
arrival, I have been unable to discover the faintest
trace of any limit to the freedom of discourse.

The minds of the Bugis, like their manners, are
shrewd, but simple j cunning, but not acute ; and
no match for the duplicity of Europeans. The
English evidently enjoy the highest character
amongst the people of Wajo. They look to them
for protection, and cannot understand why a power-
ful nation (which they are told we are) takes so
little interest in their affairs, and has so little
regard to its own advantage.

I would fain have quitted Tesora before this, but
it is quite out of my power to hurry my good host.
Delay and loss of time is the consequence, but
I must, perforce, act with the natives, as I cannot
act independently of them.

Feb. 3. — Heavy rains the livelong day.

The strangest custom I have observed is, that

Digged by Google

Cur. V.] LAEPA TONOl'S OBIEVAKCEa. 8.

some men dress like women, and some women like 1*40.

men ; not occasionally, but all their lives, devoting Feb. s.
themselves to the occupations and pursuits of their
adopted sex. In the case of the males, it seems
that the parents of a boy, upon perceiving in him
certain effeminancies of habit and appearance, are
induced thereby to present him to one of the
rajahs, by whom he is received. These youths
often acquire much influence over their masters,
as is the case in Turkey, whose history abounds in
instances of the rise of these young favourites to
the highest honours and power. It would appear,
however, from all I could learn, that the practice
leads among the Bugis to none of those vices which
constitute the opprobrium of Western Asia.

Poor Lappa Tongi this evening gave me a long
detail of his grievances, his claims, and his resolves.
I gather that he would do any thing ; forfeit any-
thing j Si Dendring itself, to expel his brother from
that country. A settled melancholy oppresses him
— that gloomy and brooding revenge, which is
dangerous in a native.

lignbcd by Google

MR. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

DANCE Or SAILORS.— MARKHT OF TESOEA-— DEPARTURE. — ASCEND
THE KLVER. — TEMPE. — DESCRIPTION Or THE LAKE. — BUG IB
RIFLE PRACTICE. — FUNERAL CEREMONIES. — CHARACTER OF

THE BUGIS. — CONDITION OF WOKEN. VISIT TO THE HILLS.

CHANGES IK THE ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. INDOLENCE

OF BOATMEN. BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. — EXCURSIONS ON THE

LAKE. — TOWNS AND POPULATION. — EVENING LANDSCAPE. —
VISIT TO THE AEUN-UJONG.

To return — about ten at night our four hands
went into the Rajah's apartment, and sang and
danced till one P.M. I could hear Bhouts of
laughter, and snatches of songs, not over decent,
with which our fellows amused their host and
hostess; and, in reward, they were feasted with
sweetmeats, and encouraged to practise all sorts
of fun.

February 4. — Visited the market, and saw as
much more of Tesora as I could. There is a large
market held twice a week, at which all kinds of
provisions are sold. At one P.M. we started for
Tempe (classical name), the Bajahate of the Datu
Lampola's lady.

The canoes were about forty or fifty feet long,
and only two and a half wide, covered with a small
kajang, or mat. In this narrow space our party

Digged by Google

Chap. VI.] ASCEND THE RTVEH. 85

■was ranged one behind another, seated cross-legged, 184 °-
somewhat to the discomposure of us alL The way
lies through the swamp which skirts the town, into
the bed of the river, which is narrow, but has some
depth, and with low marshy banks; after this
cheerless progress, it was agreeable to emerge into
the main stream, just above the town of Sabang,
which stands on the left bank, and contains from
sixty to seventy houses. A mile or two further, on
the right bank, is the town of Padiloh, with fifty
houses, besides one or two smaller places as we
ascended. At dusk we reached the town of Tarn- -
purnung, situated at the foot of one of the hills of
the small range visible from Tesora.

The river is generally more than a hundred yards
in width, with a stream of about three knots an
hour at this season, and runs through the alluvial
plain before described. Marine shells are numerous
on the soil of the banks, which are grassy, with
here and there clumps and groves of the cocoa-nut,
plantain, or tamarind. Shortly after passing Tam-
purnfing night closed in, and we proceeded to
Tempe, unable to observe much save the towns of
Amsangan and Sinkong, with a branch of the river
opposite the latter. At Tempe a salute awaited
us, and we were conducted, amid a crowd, to
our house — a large and ruinous building. The
entrance was up a steep, inclined plane of slipper}'
bamboo, and, having on a thick pair of boots, I lost
my footing, and dragging the Rajah with me we
made a highly undignified descent. They allowed

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE'8 JOTJBHAL. [Cb*p. VI.

ub to retire to rest in moderate time, evincing much
good breeding.

Feb. 5. — Kept awake a great part of the
night by the squalling of two infernal oats, with a
note different from any I ever heard, though
common to the cats of this country. The number
of rats is astonishing, and they are so bold that
they scarcely deign to get out of the way. Passed
the greater part of the day on the lake, in a small
canoe. Tempe stands at the point of junction of
the river and the lake. All this part of which is
covered with weeds, and shallow, as though gra-
dually fillin g up.

The basin is situated between the range of
mountains, which runs from Lumpu Batang to
Latimqjong, and the lower ridge already mentioned,
which detaches itself from this range, crosses the
river Sadang, at Tampurniing, and takes a direc-
tion to the eastward of north. A strip of low
ground intervenes in both banks betwixt the lake
and hills, which has evidently been gained from the
water ; and the same process of the gradual deposi-
tion of soil, will in time convert the present basin
into a rich valley, watered by a fine river. The
right bank, as far as I could see, is covered with
towns situated at the water's edge, and a few
villages are scattered on the small hills behind.

The population is evidently dense, and the coun-
try looks flourishing. The aspect of tile lake does
not boast of any very great natural beauty, though
Latimqjong, towering in the distance, *nd the

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Cur. VI.] BU0I8 RIFLE PEACTICE.

mountains on the left bank, ore noble and diversified 1Si
in outline; but the lagoon itself presents the aspect
of a swamp waving with floating masses of vegeta-
tion, eight or ten feet high, and elsewhere covered
and obstructed by weeds. We had some observa-
tions, and Murray, in another canoe, was employed
in laying down the right bank.

On my return I found the Rajahs practising
rifle-shooting at a target, at the measured distance
of one hundred and twenty yards. They sat, with
their followers, in a line, each man's rifle laid on
props close to him, and by turns they rose and
fired. Their motions are most slow and particular
— the rifle is pointed upwards, the marksman gains
a steady footing, brings his piece slowly to the
present, then feels it with his fingers to be sure of
his grasp, and, after a wearisome aim, discharges
bis bolt. They shoot well, but this false practice
of dwelling too long on the aim, must in action
cause them to lose much of their precision. It is
their usual amusement, and I am told they seldom
omit it in fine weather. Small bets were laid for
the first shot in the bull's eye, and two or three had
struck it.

The young Rajah, Ujong, or, more properly,
Aran Ujong, visited me — he is a nephew of the
Datu, pleasing and well-bred.

Feb. 6. — I had omitted to mention whilst Feb. 6
at Tesora, the custom observed subsequent to the
burial of a person of rank, of feasting the poor.
The dead are buried in the same manner as in

Digged by Google

hb. brooke's journal. [Cmaf.vl

Malay countries. The priests offer up prayers, and
all amusement is prohibited to the family and their
followers for the space of a hundred days. The
dress during this period is plain and un ornamented,
and the relatives are supposed to lead a retired
and sober life. Subsequently to the burial of the
late Pata Mapalaka, the feasting of the poor was
continued for many days, and large quantities of
provisions, consisting of buffalo and goats' flesh,
fowls, sweetmeats, &c. were cooked on the occasion,
the expense being defrayed by presents from the
friends of the family. Their offerings varied from
nine Spanish dollars to one, according to their
means ; and seeing these presents offered I thought
I could not do better than pay the same tribute
of respect. I believe my offering was highly gra-
tifying to the Datu and his family ; and it is often
by such attention to their peculiar observances,
that we gain more than by costly presents. The
graves of the dead are usually marked by a rough
stone, but some of the tombs of the wealthier
Nakodahs are of wood, elegantly designed, and
elaborately carved.

They are generally buried beyond the precincts
of the towns, and the living generation is not want-
ing in respect to the dead. A tomb of an olden
aru matoah was pointed out to me on the plain
near Penrang. It was covered with a few trees,
and neatly thatched over, though they knew little
of the dead save bis rank and his goodness. These
were preserved, together with the place of his

Digged by Google

Chap. VI.] CHARACTER OF THE BUQIS. 8!

birth, in their traditions — and few can hoast of a 184 °-
greater degree of fame from posterity. ~

The Bugis, as far as I hare observed, are a manly
and spirited race, the same size as the Malays,
slightly formed, but clean limbed, and remarkably
free from cutaneous disorders. Their vices, are the
vices of their condition and state of society, amongst
which laziness and the use of the kris are the most
frequent. They are idle, but capable of great
exertion under excitement, and might be trained
to regular labour, if the produce were at their
command.

Their enterprise as colonists and traders is a suf-
ficient proof of their good qualifications; and as a
general rule, where we observe a people striving
for wealth by means of commerce, we may attribute
their idleness in other respects to circumstances
which paralyse their efforts, rather than to any
defect of character. Distant enterprise is almost
confined to the people of Wajo, and they have a
saying amongst them, that a Boni or Soping trader
must have Wajo blood in his veins. In like man-
ner the colonists which have peopled the shores of
Borneo and other places, emigrated chiefly from
Wajo; and this probably arose from the superior
freedom of their institutions, which allow them to
reap the benefit of commerce — and from commerce
to colonisation is a natural and easy step.

The Wajo women enjoy perfect liberty, and are
free from all the restraints usually imposed by the
Mahomedan religion. They are not handsome, but

Digged by Google

90 uk. bbooke's journal. [Cup. vi.

1840. playful and good tempered — not modest, though
very chaste. The ladies of high rank are as in-
dolent and self-indulgent as ladies of high rank are
apt to be.

The Rajah of Tempe and his Bister (a fine
woman) often visit us, with their train of females.
After our voyage from Tesora, I inquired politely,
if the lady found herself fatigued, and was told,
with something of a look of astonishment, that she
was not. " If I am tired (she said) they must
carry me." It was evident my question appeared
a needless one, as the very idea of so great a person
being fatigued was impossible ! The female attend-
ants, some thirty in number, appeared to lead
almost as easy a life aa their mistress — one carried
the silver kettle from which the lady drank j another
the ciri box * ; a third, the spittoon ; and the rest,
less honoured, followed empty handed. These
ladies, always full of fun and mischief, amused us
much, took many lady-like liberties, and talked,
often in a very unladylike manner, on unladylike
subjects; yet, as I have said, they were chaste.

In the evening I rode to the smaller range of
Kills which runs by Tampurnung. It is composed
of a loose sandstone, which crumbles between the
fingers, and covered with grass. The appearance
of these hills or hummocks is peculiar, as they
stand close, yet separate one from each other. To
the eastward of them, behind Tempe, there is a
basin about two or three miles in length, by a mile

Digged by Google

Cup. VI.] CHANGES IN THE ASPECT. 91

wide, the hummocks encircling it are, to the east- 1840,
ward, smaller and more irregular. The level of
this basin is elevated above the surrounding coun-
try, and it has all the appearance of once having
been a small lake, which has in the course of time
been drained into the river.

It now presents the aspect of a pretty little
valley, clothed with green grass, and some cul-
tivation. From the summit of the hill, Tesora
is seen at no great distance to the eastward. Po-
mana to the southward, Latimojong to the north,
and the lake spread out to the west, with its bound-
ary of mountains. This is the range mentioned
as running from Lump)! fiatang through the Boni
country, and joining within a few degrees of the
spur which shoots from Latimojong. Numberless
towns and villages speckle the scene, and a consi-
derable river meets the Tempo branch at Sinkong.

Feb. 7 Ascended the river seen yesterday, Feb. 7.

which is, in fact, the principal branch of the
Sadang or Welluna, as the natives here call it.
The current is strong, whereas die stream of water
issuing from the lake at Tempe is feeble. My first
impression was, that this river, which may with
propriety be termed the Sadang or Welluna, found
exit from the western part of the lake ; but the
positive assertion of the natives of its non connec-
tion, and the improbability of a shallow lake feed-
ing two such considerable streams convinced me to
the contrary.

The space between the river and the lake is so

Digged by Google

92 MB. BKOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cur. VI.

]840. inconsiderable that there ib every reason to think
~ — that the river, forsaking its present bed, will find
some passage into the lake, and cause considerable
mischief to the towns placed along the margin of
the waters, by the sudden increase of level. In
this case the escape of water would be increased at
Tempe ; and, of course, after a time, the lake would
sink again to its present level. The probability
that this event is not far distant may be judged,
when I state that the low alluvial plain, interven-
ing between the river and the lake, does not exceed
a mile in breadth ; and that several small streams
descend with rapidity from the superior elevation
of the river to the inferior one of the lake.

From the extreme laziness of our Bugis boat-
men, we did not succeed in getting far up, for these
fellows, though they pull pretty well from place to
place, have no idea of an excursion without any
definite aim — as it was, the whole day was con-
sumed ascending a few miles. The scenery is
pretty, although the land is low ; groves of cocoa
nuts, plantains, and other fruits adorn the left
bank, which is like a garden, and the narrow steep
on the right is covered with fields of Indian corn
and rice. The town of Wageh, about five miles up
the river, stands on the left bank, and consists of
about 250 houses, with the remains of a large brick
built mosque. It is under the government of the
Rajah of Tulla Tendring. As the sun was sinking
we found our way by an outlet from the river into
the lake, and, after struggling through beds of

Digged by Google

Chap. VI.] STATISTICS OP THE TOWNS.

weeds, got into a channel which took us back to
Tempi.

Feb. 8. — Breakfast over, we set off in a canoe ]
for a cruise on the Taparkerajah, keeping along
the right bank. It is entirely covered with float-
ing vegetation, which the inhabitants represent
as shifting from one side to the other of the lake,
according to the prevailing monsoon. The right
bank, as I have already mentioned, is low; nu-
merous towns are situated at the water's edge, and
about two miles to the eastward runs the sandstone
ridge, which separates the basin of the lake from
the undulating alluvial plain, stretching to the
sea. Behind Bontosok these hills trend more to the
eastward, in a N.N.E. direction, gradually receding
from the lake towards the eastern span of Latimo-

The towns beginning from which nearly join
Tempi, are the following:

Sinkong : houses, 600 ; Tempe, 500 ; Impagadh,
75 ; Limpah Kimpah, 100 ; Padjaleleh, 250 ; Ujon-
geh, 120; Tanchung, 300; BontoBok, 40, on the
Lake ; Nepoh ( between Impagaeh and Limpah
Kimpah, at the foot of the hills), 40; and Aramo,
30, between Ujongeh and Tanchung, in the back-
ground. The amount, according to this statement,
is 2,055 houses, which, reckoned at fifteen persons
to each house, a moderate average, will give a po-
pulation of 30,825 in the few districts round the
lake.

There is little difference between one of these

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [chaf. vi.

towns and another, save their Bize ; the houses are
generally large, and built, like the houses of the
other islands of the Archipelago, on posts. They
have all a second floor under the thatch, which
gives room for their large families. We chose Dain
Matara's house at Bontosok for our quarters, and
had an excellent dinner prepared for us by our Mend,
in true Bugis fashion ; dishes and sweetmeats an
emperor might have enjoyed, though probably he
would not have approved the style of serving up
the repast.

What life can exceed this in delight ? Roving
from place to place, amid a friendly population —
every want cared for. The day producing fresh
store of information and pleasure. Our bird-stuf-
fers in full employment ; Murray with his charts ;
Theylingen with gun and insect-bag ; myself with
my journal, or, what is worse, entertaining rajahs.
I do not pause to mention all the visits we receive
. — the picture of one petty court, is the picture of
all. The individuals alone vary in their shades of
intelligence, though all alike are civil and hospit-
able.

The sun now sinks over the blue hills of Si
Dendring, and as I gaze on him I think of the Isle
of the West — our native land; what son has she
in a wilder land! Friends — dear friends, X think
upon you too — the binding link to my country,
and I wish for some magic power to enable me to
bring the scene and place before your eyes and
minds; the lake and distant mountains — the dingy

Digged by Google

Chap. VI.] MY THOUGHTS. 95

bamboo house — the dark figures seated around me ««■
as I write — the slaughtered birds, the scattered
arms — the reclining figures of my shipmates —
the touch of evening over the landscape, and the
blazing grass on the distant plain I All this is
easily enumerated, but not described. It is not
the beauty of the scene, but its effects which
strike! The wild land, the distant clime — the
uncertainty — the novelty of the life, and its very
simplicity. As the light fades I close my journal —
retire from the toindaus — spread my mat, and soon
shall lose all consciousness of the labours and
pleasures of the day in sleep.

Feb. 9. — Pulled in our barge about the northern Feb 9.
part of the lake, but we made poor progress, for,
like unwilling horses, our boatmen were ever for
turning back, and, being forced forward, proceeded
at the slowest possible pace. The aspect of this
part of the lake confirms what I have already
stated, that it is filling up.

The first town northward of Bontosok is Loah,
450 houses. It stands at a point, and is enclosed
in a thick grove. Off this point the lake is filled
up, and there is only a channel communicating
with a deep bight beyond, called Loponpaka ; after
seeing which we returned, past Loah, and palled
across to Tanchung Pare— about 250 houses, and
thence returned to Bontosok, which we reached
at 8 p.m. Voyaging on these lagoons iB highly
uninteresting, as during the greater part of the
time nothing is to be seen, for the long shrubs

Digged by Google

mr. dhooke's journal. [Ch*p. vi.

through which canals are cleared as a way for
the boats.

Adding the population of Loah and Tanchung
Pare to that of yesterday, we shall have 700 houses,
with 10,500 inhabitants; the total being 41,325
persons on the eastern and northern shores. I
propose subsequently to add the other towns I
hare seen, whence we may form some idea of the
population of a portion of Wajo.*

Feb. 10. — Embarked for Padjaleleh, already
mentioned, to visit the young Aran Ujong. He
received us with great politeness, and in the
evening showed us a deer hunt with three tame
stags. They were turned loose in the paddy fields
near the town, and afforded us some sport, and
more fun.

The Aran Ujong is a nephew of Lappa Tongl,
being the son of his elder brother, Lowunra, by his
marriage with the Pate Patalah — and his claim to
Si Dendring, according to our laws of succession,
is better than his uncle's. He is, however, a firm
supporter of his uncle, and has followed him always
to the wars. The Aran Ujong is married to a
daughter of the Nakodah Palewo; this rich and

" Mr. Bernard, whom I met subsequently, furnished me with the
following information, as derived from the natives. Though we agree
in taking fifteen persona as the average to each house, I must reject
the number of houses. My own observation has led me to the con-
clusion already mentioned — Loah, 900; Bontosok, 40; Tanchung,
800; Ujongeh, 200; Padjaleleh, 400; Liropah Kimpah, 100; Wan-
pagueb, 60 ; Tempe, 1000 ; Stnkong, 1000. Total houses, 4620. Total
population, 67,600. The difference it great.

Digged by Google

Chap. VI.] ABTIN UJONO.

respectable man was on board tbe Royalist for
more than a week, and I was quite glad to see him
again. He likewise, with his purse and person,
sustains Lappa Tongi's cause, and has received
three wounds fighting by hia side.

11, Google

MB. BBOOKB'8 JOUBNAL.

CHAP. VII.

SI DENDRING SUCCESSION. — HISTORICAL RECAPITULATION. LON-

TABAH OF WAJO. — INTRIGUES AND CABALS. — EUROPEAN IN-
FLUENCE. — RECEPTION AND POLICY OF MR. BROOKE IN WAJO.

CHANGE IN THE COUNCILS OP BOHL — LAKE COVERED WITH
WATER LILIES. FUt£ AT WATTEREH. — HUSQUITOEB. — AQUA-
TIC BIRDS. SHAM FIGHT. D(TEttVTEW WITH ABU BETDJG.

INFLUENCE OF ARAB AND CHINESE SETTLESB.

Feb. 11. — It was urged on me to croaa over to
Wattereh, and thence, if possible, to visit Tetiagi
in the Si Dendring country. I can see no advan-
tage likely to accrue from this visit; yet I am
willing to undertake it, as I would embrace the
faintest chance of preserving even a temporary
peace between the two brothers.

I may here give some account of the different
claimB to the throne of Si Dendring, the succession
to which is shaking the Bugia country to its
centre, and includes, in feet, their present political
state.

Si Dendring, formerly a dependency of Boni,
joins the territory of Wajo on the Taparke Rajah,
and touches a portion of the Dutch territory to the
westward and southward, stretching to the shores
of the Makassar Strait, and bounded by Supa to
the northward. The rest of the territory joins tliat
of Soping. This country has for many years been

Digged by Google

Chap. VII.] HISTORICAL RECAPITULATION. 85

free — it is fertile and productive, and possesses a imo.
brave population. The late rajah, or adanatuan,
of Si Dendring died in 1832, at a very advanced
age, and during his reign he added considerably
to the extent and importance of his possessions.
Being a shrewd and calculating character, he al-
ways sided with the Europeans, and supported
them against the native states, of which, especially
Boni, he was justly suspicious. During the period
the English held the territory of Makassar, the
adanatuan Si Dendring was their faithful ally and
friend. On the return of the Dutch, he was
equally in alliance with them; and sided with both
powers in their respective wars against Boni.

With the death of this old gentleman the troubles
in Si Dendring began ; and in order to understand
clearly the claims of the two parties, it is necessary
to go back to the history of the family, and its
various members. The son of the adanatuan Si
Dendring, was named Malisandrang, who in his
youth married (with the consent of his father)
Immudah, then the young rajah Tulla Tendring,
who subsequently became patamapalaka. The high
rank of the lady, and her still higher prospects,
render it probable that some agreement was made
at the time of her espousal respecting the succes-
sion to Tulla Tendring and Si Dendring : on this
the claim of Lappa Tongi entirely rests, and in
support of it, his mother and himself appeal to the
records of Wajo, of Boni, and of Soping.

The lontar of these three countries are stated

Digged by Google

me. brooke's journal. [chap, vu.

each to contain the settlement of Tulla Tendring
* and Si Dendring on the heirs of the marriage of
their respective princes. The lontar of Wajo was
shown to me, and I have taken a copy of the brief
part referred to : —

Extract from the Lontarak of Wajo.

" The war being finished (between Si Dendring
and Merioh) the old rajah Si Dendring came to
Wajo to form an alliance between the young rajah
of Si Dendring and the young rajah Tulla Ten-
dring. There was cock-fighting, with other games,
and crowds of people present at Compong Mengeh
(belonging to Tulla Tendring) ; and this was the
first time dollars were used (in Wajo), at the espou-
sal of Malisandrang with Immudah.

" On this occasion, Si Dendring and Tulla
Dendring were (balisompah) settled, or joined in
dowry. By this marriage were bom four children :
Achina, Wiseh (daughters), Lowunru, and Lappa
Tongi."

I will make no remark here upon this extract,
but proceed with the history. After the birth of
these children, their father, Malisandrang, contracted
a marriage with the ranee Pomana, by whom ho
had a son named Latabusasa. His third marriage
was with a young ranee of Pomana, the issue by
which marriage was Lappa Gnorisan, and other
children. Malisandrang and his eldest son both

Digged by Google

Cbaf. TO.] INTRIGUES AND CABALS.

dying, Lappa Tongi was the recognised heir of Si
Dendring, and as such waB known to the British
during their possession of XJjong Pandang or Ma-
kassar.

He appeals to the resident, Capt. Phillips, for the
truth of this statement ; but Capt. Phillips is dead,
and his claim could not rest upon such grounds.
On the return of the Dutch, the rajah of Si Dendring
formed an alliance and sided with them against
Boni, in the war of 1824. Lappa Tongi, differing
with his grandfather, espoused the more national
party of Boni, and led his followers into that coun-
try against their adversaries. His elder sister,
Achina, having married one of the royal family of
Boni (a relation of the present pata mancoweh),
was probably the reason of his taking this step,
which lost him the favour of his grandfather and
the countenance of the Dutch Government. From
that period the younger brother, Lappa Gnorisan,
resided with the adanatuan Si Dendring ; and on
the death of his uncle, in 1832, a will was
found in his favour. On this will the younger
brother's claim rests, and it was recognised by the
Dutch government, by whom he was installed the
successor of his grandfather in Si Dendring.

The death of the old rajah of Si Dendring was
followed by war ; but once or twice an agreement
took place between the brothers, and they both
lived peaceably in Si Dendring. The breach of this
doubtful amity is thrown by either party on its op-
ponent, and frequent wars have since taken place.

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [chap. vir.

The close of the last war left the Datu Lampola in
possession of four districts of Si Denoting, viz.
Watt&r6h, Wenioh, Belloka, and Lisah, whilst his
brother retained the throne, the regalia, and the
rest of the territory.

Lappa Tongi was preparing a fresh irruption
into Si Dendring, backed by the people of Wajo,
when, as it is stated, a letter arrived from the
Dutch government to the chiefs of Wajo, threaten-
ing them with the seizure of their prahus if they
invaded Si Dendring ; and the tomarilalan, on the
part of Boni, threatened Wajo with war. The
counter-measure was the application made to the
British government from the late rundrang Tulla
Tendring, the answer to which, I believe, contains
a refusal to meddle in the affairs of Celebes. On
my arrival, I was denied admittance into the Boni
country, much to my regret.

My reception in Wajo, as has been related, was
fitr different ; for the chiefs of that country, though
fully aware of the object of my visit and my non-
connection with the government, were doubtless
glad to have it said that an Englishman was
amongst them. It was quite beyond my province
to interfere in their affairs, or to act in any way
in contravention of the measures of the Dutch
government. I have, however, in regulating my
conduct, kept two leading principles constantly
in view. The first is the avoidance of any act,
or any advice, which interfered with the rights
of either government, coupled with the repeated

Digged by Google

CmAP.YIL] CHANGE IN THE COUNCILS OF BONI.

assurances, in the plainest language, of my private
capacity. The second is the right of free inquiry
into the condition and policy of the native states,
and the relation and conduct of the European
governments towards them, — and, likewise, my
offering such advice, when required, as tended
manifestly to benefit the native states and pre-
serve peace.

Having said so much of myself, I will only
further remark that I fear the latter portion of my
advice will be in vain, for the datu lampola,
being prepared and determined on war, will, I fear,
plunge forward — probably to his own destruc-
tion. The authorities of Boni, however, have
greatly altered their tone since my arrival, though
I am entirely at a loss to guess to what this
change may be attributed. Yet I rejoice at it,
as it may afford the long-desired opportunity
of visiting Boni, and perhaps seeing the caves
of Mampo.

Once more to prostate what is found in my note-
book, I may mention that, by the advice of Seid
Abdullah, the Arab already mentioned, I wrote to
the pata moncoweh, stating that, before leaving
this country, I wished to acquaint him that my
object in coming was to visit the various chiefs,
to cultivate their friendship, and to see their
country. That I had been informed that some
evil-disposed persons had assured him my designs
were evil, and that I was an agent of Government,
which was utterly at variance with the truth.

Digged by Google

MR. BEOOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Chap, vii.

That I wished both happiness and prosperity to
the Bugis nations, and believed they could only
be prosperous when the three countries of Boni,
Wajo, and Soping were firmly allied, as of old.
To this communication I received a most flattering
reply, and an invitation, with the assurance that
he was convinced of my intentions being good and
my pursuits of a private nature. On this invi-
tation I am now on my way to Boni ; and it is
evident some change must have come over their
politics, as the king states that it is his great de-
sire the three countries should be allied as they
formerly were.

Feb. 13— Crossed the lake to WattfinSi. One
field of large brilliant water lilies extended for
four or five miles, presenting the lovely contrast
of white flowers and fresh dark-green leaves on a
magnificent scale. On the leaves we found some
nests of the aquatic birds with which the lake
abounds, and the birds themselves ran over or
swam amid the flowers. Whilst crossing we ob-
served a fire blazing on the opposite shore, and on
arriving learned with regret that the rajah's house,
with thirty others, had been destroyed 1 The con-
sequence was, after some delay, we got housed in
a poor hut, together with the rajah, his wife, and
the whole train.

Wattardh stands at the N.W. angle of the Tapar-
ke-rajah, and from it a channel communicates
with the Sarrow Lake to the northward. It evi-
dently was one body of water originally, and the

Digged by Google

Cn*r. VH.] TBTIAGI.

ground on which Wattar^h stands, as well as the
greater part of the low alluvial plain between the
lake and mountains, was covered with water. The
high lands on this shore are beautiful and diver-
sified, and the prospect of the huge Latimojong
most magnificent. To the southward of Wattar&h,
on the borders of the lake, is Battu Battu, de-
pendent on Soping. To the N. W. Tetiagi, the
capital of the Si Dendring country, where Lappa
Gnorisan resides. Wattar^h, together with Lisah
Belloka and Weni&h in its immediate vicinity, are
properly belonging to the territory of Si Dendring
and are the districts which have been taken by
the datu lampola, and which he is now required
to cede.

Feb. 14 — ■ 16. — PasBed most miserably at Wat-
tar^h. 1 was near visiting Tetiagi ; but, when
the point came, I gave it up, as the datu seemed
averse to my going and I had not the slightest
hope of being Useful.

Lappa Gnorisan was civil enough to invite us to
his residence, and Theylingen and Mr. Poons, the
interpreter, went to Tetiagi, and returned highly
delighted with the magnificence, riches, and feed-
ing of their host. This is natural. Tetiagi is
represented as a large town, with two other towns
near it j one is Meseppe, in the neighbourhood of a
hot-water spring. I here first met Mr. B., a
gentleman of intelligence, and devoted to Lappa
Gnorisan's cause. From his residence at Tetiagi,
and occasional visits to Lagusi, he transmits informa-

Digged by Google

106 us. brooke's jokrnal. [cuf. til

1840. tion to the Makassar government. He acquaints
me that a Dutch cruiser has been despatched to
watch my movements. I care not : only, if she do
come, I will give her a dance, and lodge her, may-
hap, on a coral reef. Watt&reh consists of about
200 houses, very greatly reduced by war and fire.
It abounds with musquitoes — Oh! the tortures we
suffered who shall describe ? each livelong night
was passed most miserably without sleep, and the
day found us fevered and restless under the un-
ceasing persecution. It was with joy, indeed, I
hailed the moment of our release.

From the 16th to the 21st our time was idly,
but not unpleasantly, passed at Padjaleleh, in-
creasing our store of birds. To me the time was
less pleasant than to my companions ; for I was
confined from an inflammation in my leg, brought
on by musquito bites, which gave me great pain,
and almoBt prevented my putting my foot to the
ground. I now desired greatly to return on board ;
but the pressing instances of my hosts obliged me
to remain till the aru beting comes to Tanchung,
when we are to meet.

I may here say that the lake abounds with aquatic
birds, amongst which are wild ducks of two or
three sorts ; egrets and cranes of various kinds ;
herons ; one or two kinds of bittern ; Fulica, of two
kinds ; Parra, with a crimson top knot ; two species
resembling curlew-divers (Grebe) ; cormorants,
darters, &c. ; besides owls, hawks, quails, Sec.
on land. Our number of species amounts to forty

Digged by Google

Chip. VH.] INTERVIEW WITH THE ABU BETING. 10'

or more here alone ; and I doubt not some of them ,M0 -
will be found rare, if not new.*

Feb. 21. — This was the day fixed for my Feb. 21.
meeting the aru f beting. Though my leg was
inflamed and painful, I managed to mount a horse,
and accompanied by the rajahs Lappa Tongi, Ujong,
and Karain, with a train of three or four hundred
men, rode to Tanchung. Our approach having
been previously announced, the aru beting, with
about a thousand followers, emerged from the
town, and both parties halted in the plain, at
a distance of half a mile from each other.
Loud shouts and great clamour were followed
by a general charge of horse and foot. The
horse-tail spears, the shining krises, and the
prancing animals produced a pleasing effect ; and
when the parties met, they went through all the
show of an engagement — horse pushed against
horse ■ — spear was levelled against spear — mimic
blows were exchanged between the fcris men, and
the muskets were discharged as fast as they could
be loaded. When the engagement had lasted for
some time, the two parties intermixed and halted,
and our cavalcade advanced to where the aru
beting was awaiting us on horseback.

This chief, the head of the Wajo state, is about
fifty years of age, dark complexioned, with a quick
eye, and few marks of Bugis origin : his appear-

* The natural history collections nude in Celebes and Borneo were
unfortunately all lost on their way home.

f Aran, a title equivalent to rajah ; always spelt •run, but before
a consonant the n U mute.

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [Cuir. vir.

ance is more like that of a Turk. I accompanied him
to his residence, but ■was in so much pain daring
the whole interview, that I fear I acquitted myself
badly. In the evening an immense concourse fired
at the target. After which I took my departure,
and was never more glad than when I got back to
Padjaleleh. I found the greater number of our
people had proceeded to Tempe, according to my
directions, whence to-morrow they return to the
schooner. M'Kenzie and Poons I have kept with
me, and I hope soon to follow. Mr. B. again visited
me.

Feb. 25. — I may here close the daily journal,
condensing my remaining stay in Wajo and the
information I gained, into as brief a space as
possible. Before leaving Tempe, Seid Abdullah,
whom I have before mentioned, visited me, and I
had frequent opportunities of becoming acquainted
with him. Much evil iB by most 'writers attributed
to the Arab settlers and traders in Malay coun-
tries: that they are often religious impostors I
doubt not ; and, from their influence amongst the
natives, may do much mischief; but perhaps their
bad character has been exaggerated, on account of
their uniform opposition to European government.*
The rule of Europeans is opposed to their inter-
ests ; and though their conduct may spring from
personal motives, yet they are invariably supporters
of native independence.

* Further acquaintance with the Arabs baa induced Mr. Brooke to
alter hia opinion on this point.

Digged by Google

Chap. Til.] SEID ABDULLAH.

Not so the Chinese. They became the willing
and grinding tools of any or every government,
and their interest is better advanced under a cor-
rupt government than a native state. The Bugis,
however, are free from the examples and contagion
of both these races. Seid Abdullah, with half a
dozen other Arabs dependent on him, are the only
ones I met ; and during my stay I saw but one
renegade Chinese, and he kept a gambbng Bhop at
Tesora. The reputation of Seid Abdullah is great
throughout the three Bugis states ; and though his
permanent residence be at Tempe, he is constantly
called to Boni and Soping by the rajahs of those
countries. His influence and good sense I con-
sider highly beneficial ; and the well-being and
independence of the states a matter of great im-
portance to him.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE S JOUBNAX.

CHAP. vin.

NAKODAH PELEWO. — NATIVE GOVERNMENTS. — ANECDOTE OF THE

SLAVE TRADE. — CEKEMONY OF CHtCUKCISION. BUPEBSTmOM

AND SUPPOSED BUIN8 1TCLLAGE SHELVES. — TRACES OF HIN-

DUHISH. — FAITH IN OMENS. — DEER-HUNT.. — BUGIS LITERATURE
AND MUSIC. — DANdNG-GHtLS. — MANUFACTURES AND TRADE.—
SINGAPORE POLICE. — DESIRE OF PROTECTION. — ALLIGATORS.—
LETTER PROM BONI. — CONFERENCE OF CHIEFS. — ELECTION OF
KING. — EXCHANGE OP PRESENTS. — A BOAT-LOAD OF RAJAHS.

Before leaving Padjaleleb, I must not omit to
mention my friend, the nakodah Pelewo, a man of
upright mind and liberal principles. Any nation
might be proud to own him; and, for myself per-
sonally, I feel the warmest interest in bis welfare,
after being well acquainted with his simplicity,
honesty, and hospitality. He is, for a Bugis, very
rich, and may be considered the head of the middle
class which has risen in Wajo from the wealth
acquired in trade — a class which will encroach
upon and overthrow the feudal system.

The nakodah's sons and daughters are all highly
married — the former to rajahs, the latter, to the
highest blood; and, surrounded by bis relatives,
this patriarchal old man lives at Padjaleleh, the
happiest and best-governed town in Wajo. The
difference between Padjaleleh and Tempe is most
striking. Terape, under the rule of the young
rajah Earaino, is a nest of plunderers and thieves ;

Digged by Google

Cbaf. Vm.] ANECDOTE OF THE SLAVE TBADE. Ill

and the ruler himself is surrounded by a Bet of IM0 -
miscreants, to whom he affords countenance and
protection. Padjaleleh, on the contrary, under the
upright nakodah Palewo, is a peaceful, honest, and
industrious town, and the arun Ujong represses
and punishes the vices of his followers.

A striking example of this difference occurred
whilst I was staying there. A follower of the
rajah Karain, who had assumed the character of
a physician, came to the house of a relative of the
nakodah; and, after Bitting some time in converse
with the lady of the house, said, — " I wish you would
let somebody carry my bundle to Nepoh, where I
am going" (Nepoh was about three miles off). The
poor woman immediately said, — " My nephew shall
do it for you ;" and the boy (about ten years of age)
went with the pretended physician, as was thought,
to Nepoh. Some days, however, elapsing, and the
boy not coming back, his aunt grew uneasy ; and,
setting some inquiries on foot, found that the man
whom he had gone with was at Tempe. On being
applied to, the miscreant coolly replied, that the boy
came back the same evening ; the real fact being
that he had sold him as a slave, no one knew
where. Under these circumstances the nakodah
applied to me to use my influence with the datu
lampola in order to recover the boy, and I imme-
diately applied to him, and received the fullest
assurance that if the boy was alive he should be
found. A week, however, passing, and no news
being obtained, I renewed my instances more

Digged by Google

112 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chaf. Tin.

18«. warmly; and urged that if the man would not dis-
close what he had done with the boy, he ought to
be put in confinement. Such plain dealing ap-
peared, however, to be altogether out of the question,
for he was a follower of the aru Karain! On
further inquiry I learnt that the very rascal who
had stolen and sold the boy, had been sent to re-
purchase him with twenty-five reals* of the datu's
money. I was very ill satisfied at the time ; but
had afterwards the satisfaction of learning from the
nakodah the intelligence that the poor boy, who
had been sold in Si Dendring, was to return home
immediately.

The boy will be restored, but the perpetrator of
this villany will go unpunished; and, probably,
save for my presence, and certainly in the case of
any other man except the nakodah, no inquiry
would have been set on foot, and no redress ob-
tained.
Feb. as Feb. 28. — Returned to Tempe, after a second
visit to the aru beting ; during which I was pre-
sent at the ceremony of circumcision.

The house was decorated with a number of chan-
deliers of a novel and simple construction. The
soft stems of the plantain tree, about four feet long,
were suspended from the ceiling, and ornamented
with vast numbers of sticks stuck in them, sur-
mounted by painted eggs or coloured paper. At
night these are replaced by candles, formed, as is
usual, with a slip of bamboo, covered with the fruit

* A real is two Dutch rupees, or St. id. English.

d by Google

Chap. VOL] CEREMONY OP CIBCOMCISION.

of a bruised nut, mixed "with cotton. A dense
crowd was present at the ceremony, with half a
dozen priests seated in a conspicuous place. On
the arrival of the aru beting, the first thing the
old gentleman did was to order the priests, koran,
and instruments into a corner, whilst he occupied
the cool seat by the window. One hajji read the
koran in Arabic, which none understood ; and at
proper intervals, the multitude gave responses in
the same unknown tongue. When the responses
were not sufficiently loud, the aru beting roared
out to have them louder, and set the example,
turning round to me occasionally with a loud
laugh, and patting me on the back in his self-ap-
proval. The crowd of men and boys, inspired by
their chief, roared lustily, and laughed, and talked,
as though the reading of their scripture was vastly
amusing. Three boys were decked out in gay,
scarlet, gold-embroidered petticoats ; one by one
they were seated on a low stool, and the office per-
formed by an aged priest with much decency.
The crowd laughed and shouted louder than ever ;
and a number of women, probably relatives, show-
ered flowers on the perfect moslem. An abundant
feast succeeded, and what could not be eaten was
carried away. The ornaments in the chandeliers
were likewise taken by any one who could get
them ; and a piece of small silver money having
been presented to each of the chiefs, we took our
departure at sunset.

VOL. I. I

Digged by Google

11* MB. BBOOKB'8 JOtJBHAL. [Ciu*. VIII.

Feb. 80 Tempe. Rode to sortie reported ruins

Feb. ao. toe** the town of Palipu. Palipu is nearly east
of Bontosok, and stands on the sandstone range
behind that town, It is a considerable place, and
under the government of the a**tt beting. The
ruin proved to be nothing but a large shed situated
in a thick wood, within which the people make of-
ferings. On this shrine we found cocoa-nuts, water
ciri, carved bits of wood, &c. ; and around, a num-
ber of fowls let loose, to propitiate the evil spirit.*
The same custom, on a smaller scale, exists all
over the Bugis country; each village having a
small shrine at some little distance, where offerings
are made. This is evidently the remains of a re-
ligion anterior to Mahomedamsm. The natives
seem to entertain the most confused notions of the
purpose of these shrines ; but the better educated,
whilst they laugh at the BuperBtition, point to
Balif as the seat of the same religion. The mul-
titude believe in the existence of evil spirits, and
the shrines are erected on the places of their resi-
dence, in order to propitiate their good will and
avert their vengeance. At the larger shrine of
Palipu, I obtained, however, a proof of the ancient
religion being Hindu.

In a smaller shed, a few yards from the larger
one, there stood a rounded stone, in shape and
appearance the same we see in so many Hindu

* The vagabonds belonging to the rajah Karain stole these (acred
chickens !

t An inland immediately east of Jara.

Digged by Google

Chip. THI.] BUOLB OSDLNH. — DBBB HUHT. 115

temples ; and, as in Hindustan, offerings had been 1M0 -
made by sprinkling it with oil and water. It is
curious to observe the existence of the superstition
long after the religion has disappeared ; and it is
lamentable to reflect, that, whilst the truths which
all creeds teach are easily effaced, the corrupt cere-
monial survives.

The Bugis, generally, are greatly given to faith
in omens ; tokens of good or evil fortune are de-
rived from animate and inanimate objects ; horses,
dogs, cats, &c, according to their particular
marks or the turn of the hair, indicate one or the
other. Prahus, houses, and krises, all bear some
marks by which fate is deciphered. Some of
the former, from peculiar knots in the wood, pre-
dict inevitable shipwreck; others are doomed to
destruction by piracy, by fire, or by mutiny ; whilst
others, more fortunate, are to bring wealth and
safety to the owner. These are, however, but the
superstitions common to all times and all nations,
in different ways, and springing from sources for-
merly dependent on, but now distinct from, religion.

My ride to Palipu tired me much ; for the day
was broiling hot, and my leg, bad before, was con-
siderably worse for the exertion.

March 2 Wageh. An unsuccessful deer-hunt ***«& 2 >

brought us here ; and with my sore leg, I had little
heart for the sport; for riding through the long
grass gave me pain, and threw me back. Our hunt-
ing ground was between the sandstone range and
the Sadang river, on its left bank. The country is

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's joubnal. [ciur. via.

pretty, and above Wageh is the town of Chalako,
consisting of about 100 houses. One deer was
started close to me, and I had five minutes gallop
amongst the rest. M'Kenzie, later in the morning,
started a hog on very difficult ground, and, sailor-
like, pursued him ; the natives, thinking it a deer,
rode like madmen from all quarters. They cer-
tainly are very bold horsemen.

March 3. — Tempe. During my stay I have been
anxiously inquiring for manuscripts, but without
success; and I am inclined to believe that Dr.
Leyden, in the list be gives of Bugis works, has
been misled by the exaggeration of the natives.
The lontarahs, several volumes of the voyages
and adventures of Sawira Gading*, and some books
of sayings of their wise men, are all I could hear
of; and Mr. B., who is well acquainted with the
language, confirms this opinion. However, this
refers to Wajo alone. Luwu, as the most ancient
state and the birthplace of their traditional hero,
may be richer in literature. Music there is none
in Wajo, nor do the people seem to have any taste
for singing, to which the Malays are attached ; a
common tom-tom or drum, and a small gong, were
the only instruments I heard as accompaniments to
four dancing women. These dancing girls were
plain, and dressed with great modesty, the sarong
being fastened by a belt round the waist, and a

* The rajahs bestowed the name of SaiLrro Gading on Mr. Brooke ;

» delicate piece of flattery. — Ed.

Digged by Google

CHIT. VIUj MANUFACTURES AND TRADE. 117

square shawl of red or yellow over their shoulders, 184 °-
entirely concealing the bosom.

On their heads they wore a high pasteboard orna-
ment, gilt and painted, with four or five ribbons,
dangling from it to the waist. Their eyes were
stained black ; their lips and finger nails, red ; and
several red patches were dispersed about the face.
They stood in a row, and moved slowly, each in
turn taking up the song, and twirling and rapping
the fan they carried in their hands. Occasionally,
a man was selected to dance with them, who chose
one, moving round her with a motion resembling
St. Vitus' s dance, and indicating his amorous pas-
sion by approaching and smelling her person like
a satyr. Nothing could be more dull or stupid,
or, what was worse almost, interminable.

March 5 — Returned to Bontosok, and on the Mwd" s.
following day removed once again to Padjaleleh,
where I am more comfortable and better ac-
quainted with the people. The chief manufacture
of the Bugis land is the cloth for sarongs ; and on
the product of this cloth the families generally
obtain what little money they require. Their ar-
ticles of food are easily procured. The rice and
Indian corn is cultivated by their slaves. Fish are
caught in the lake, generally small, and of a dark
colour ; fowls live about the houses ; and food thus
costs them nothing, save on occasions of marriage
or funeral feasts. The repair of their houses, and
the stock in trade for purchasing cotton thread for
their manufacture, is the chief outlay.

Digged by Google

118 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Crap. VIII.

1840. The thread procured at Singapore is far cheaper,
though less durable, than the Bugis cotton. Sarongs
made of the latter are more expensive and far
more durable ; and the manufacture is chiefly car-
ried on by females ; in every house a number of
hand-looms being at work. The cargoes brought
by the BugU prahus are in part procured from the
eastward. Tortoise-shell, gold, mother-of-pearl,
shell, &c. come from the eastern islands, on the
northern extremity of Celebes. The staples of
Bugis land are sarongs and coffee. The latter is
chiefly grown on the mountains near Sangi, or in
the Boni range.

The export of sarongs is very unprofitable, as
they usually cost more than they sell for at Singa-
pore. Coffee is more advantageous, the cost being
from seven to nine reals per pical, and selling at
good prices. The whole of the trade, however, is
conducted on so small a scale, that a European
vessel would have to lie for months, and be subject
to a thousand vexations, before she disposed of her
cargo and filled another. It is on the return
cargo the Bugis usually make their profits ; it con-
sists chiefly of arms, gunpowder, opium, and cottons.
These, particularly the first, sell at an enormous
advance either for money or barter. The currency
is entirely copper, dollars being few and rarely
seen. Pice* from Singapore, or Bataviaand China
cash are used.

The nakodahs are by far the most liberal and

* Small copper money.

Digged by Google

C*t*. Vmj DBSIBB OP PROTECTION. 1 19

civil, class, and generally speak Malay well. Several i8 ^-
of them made strong complaints of the Singapore '

police, asserting that they were constantly searched,
fined, and their people put in confinement, and
threatened with being taken to the court.

They said likewise, that malicious persons were
in the habit of concealing a small quantity of
opium in their boats, and then calling a peon,
sure to be at hand, who, finding the opium, seized
the boat, upon which they had sometimes to give
forty or fifty dollars to get her released. These
statements are probably exaggerated ; but, knowing
as I do what the native police is, and likewise the
dread and apprehension entertained by these people
of our courts of justice, I can readily believe there is
some truth in the tale, and certainly the conduct of
the police ought to be most strictly watched. Ap-
prehension and exposure in courts are looked on
by these people as disgraceful ; and, accustomed
only to arbitrary power, they form very false notions
of punishments, having no idea of public justice,
but trusting entirely on individual influence. On
this account, to know the governor of Singapore is
accounted a protection ; and, in the same way, an
acquaintance with any English gentleman gives
them a sense of security which they never enjoy
from any thing told them of laws or justice.

Many asked me for a pass, evidently con-
ceiving that even the Dutch government would
respect it. It was in vain to assure them it was
of no use; and when I gave them a certificate,

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. IChap. vni.

stating that they were respectable persons, known
to me in Bugis land, and quietly trading with
Singapore, they appeared quite satisfied. I wish,
indeed, my pass could afford them the protection
they desire.

March 8. — Tempe once again.

I am most anxious to start, but the rajahs have
delayed me, day by day, for the last week. We
have been constantly in the habit of bathing in the
lake since our arrival, though informed by the
natives that there were alligators in it. This
evening I had ocular demonstration of the fact j for
whilst walking on the river side, close to our usual
bathing- place, a large alligator rushed into the
water within a few yards of me.

March 9. — Dropped down the river to Tesora.
At Tesora I received a cordial invitation from the
pata mancowe of Boni. The manner of conducting
business is so extraordinary that I may describe it
here. Returning from my evening walk, I was
informed that a messenger had arrived from Boni
with a letter, which he was directed to deliver into
my own hands. Putting on my jacket, I joined the
circle round the datu lompula, and the letter was
presented and received in due form. Being handed
to Dain Matara, he translated it aloud in Malay,
and then re-read it aloud in Bugis, for the benefit
of the whole crowd. Much approbation was ex-
pressed, and at the conclusion one of the pangawas
commenced a commentary on it. " It is a very ex-
cellent letter," he remarked ; " and if Boni and

Digged by Google

Chap. VUL] INSTALLATION OF AN ABU MATOAH. 121

Wajo were on good terms, as formerly was the case, IMa
the countries would flourish, and the datu regain
Si Dendring ; but, in order to settle this matter, we
must have an aru matoah, or else the pata mancowe
will not transact business." " Oh ! yes," said many
voices, " we ought to have an aru matoah. The
aru beting must appoint an aru matoah. He must
be desired to come here immediately." " If he won't
come," added another, " we will have war. "

An old hajji tried to defend the aru beting,
remarking, that, if he did not appoint an aru ma-
toah, he could go himself to Boni, and renew the
good understanding ; but the pangawa was de-
cidedly of a contrary opinion, and the company
generally sided with him; one saying he was a
foolish old man, always thinking of trifles, instead
of the good of the country ; at last it was settled
that the rajahs present, as well as a deputation
of the pangawas should wait on the aru beting,
and urge him to convene a general meeting of the
rajahs, in order to elect an aru matoah. You must
be here, said the pangawa of Tulla Tendring, and
then he will do it. I consented, if they really could
induce him to proceed to the appointment, and in
this consent I had a lurking desire to see the
ceremonial of the institution. At the same time, I
conceive it to be the very best thing which could
happen for the country.

At the installation of the aru matoah, I am told
that all the rajahs, the freemen, and their respec-
tive followers, are present, forming a vast body of

Digged by Google

122 MB. BBOOKE'S JOUBHAL- [Cur.Vffl,

1840. people. One part of the ceremony is curious and

~ characteristic. The chief about to be elected urges

his unfitness for the office. " I am foolish," he says.
— " I am pusillanimous — I am poor." The re-
sponse is, " Wajo la -wise — Wajo is brave — Wajo
is rich." Great rejoicings take place, and allegi-
ance is sworn to the elected monarch.

March io. March 10. — Delayed at Tesora for want of
horses.

March n. March 11 Royalist. Glad to be on board

again. I was accompanied down by the datu lam-
pula, and the rajahs Karain and Bile. On board I
found all getting on well, and two or three sick
men convalescent.

March 12. March 12. — After leading a wild life for six
weeks, it is agreeable to return to the comforts,
small though they be, of my own vessel. Here I
have a bed to lie on, and a chair to sit on ; a knife
and fork to eat with, and books to read. Our food
differs little from that of the natives. The stock
of wine and spirits has been out some time, our
biscuit is finished, and sugar and tea we have none.
These privations, if they can be so called, fall
equally on all ; and I believe no one cares about
them, as we get rice as a substitute for biscuit, and
the country furnishes us besides with coffee, palm
sugar, and fowls ; sometimes a little venison, or a
tough buffalo.

March 13. March 13. — Despatched Dain Matara in the
gig to Bajue and Boni, to intimate that I was ready
to visit the pata mancowe, if he d«sired it.

Digged by Google

Cju.i-.VUr.] EXCHANGE OP PRESENTS. 123

March 14 On shore. Rajah Penrang arrived. 184tt

Lappa Tongi about to depart from Doping, to get Mwch 14.
every thing ready at Tesora, aa he says ; but the
truth is, a prahu of one of his chief supporters has
arrived filled with munitions of war. I believe her
non-appearance has hitherto kept him quiet. The
habit of exchanging presents, common to the East,
is most especially inconvenient in Bugis land,
from the overwhelming number of rajahs — all
of them showy flashy fellows, very fond of showy
things.

My stock has run bo low that I am going to
sacrifice a microscope and rifle at the shrine of the
Boni king. In Wajo, I had presented to me a hand-
some kris, by Lappa Tongi, and a hunting-spear ;
a war-spear, by arun Ujung ; a light hunting-
spear and a brace of deer, by aru beting; and
twenty sarongs, hy different persons. The sa-
rongs, except three for my own use, I have dis-
tributed amongst the crew, who have all taken
to wearing them by night, or else make them into
trowsers. The spears with the noose for catching
deer are neat, and will afford the best idea of their
mode of hunting, which, however, has been excel-
lently delineated by Thylingen, in a sketch of the
chase. The kris, or hunting-knife, was the pro-
perty of the late pata mapalaka, and as such I
esteem it.

In return for these presents, or rather previous
to bis gift, I sent Lappa Tongi a little gunpowder,
four muskets, a piece of flowered muslin, another

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's joubnal. [Cur.vm.

of Surat silk, one of handkerchiefs; besides a
looking-glass, soap, and heads, &c. to his lady.
Lappa Tongi is an open-handed chieftain, highly
popular throughout Bugis. His talents are medi-
ocre; hia manner reserved and melancholy, but
good tempered and easy. He speaks but very little,
but what he does say is sensible enough. He is
certainly a formidable antagonist, being supported
by four of the great chiefs of Wajo ; by powerful
connections both in Boni and Soping, by ftferioh
and Supa, the warlike rajah of which has always
been the first to enter the lists in his favour. His
country is situated on the west coast, to the north
of Varh Pare, as far as I can make out.

March 15- — Settled with the Rajahs Penrang,
Karain and Bile, to carry them to-morrow as far as
Akutaingan, the residence of the late aru matoah.*

March 16. — At eightlast eveningcame the three
great men and their train, thirty in all, stowed in our
long boat. Dropping down the Doping river, they
stove the boat on the stump of a tree ; and, when
they got into the sea-way, they could hardly keep
her afloat. The night was wretchedly passed;
deck, cabins, berths, all full ; rajahs rolling on the
carpet, smoking opium, so thick that it was difficult
to find a passage amongst them. At mid-day a
feather breeze springing up allowed us to get under
weigh, as I was most anxious to be rid of this live

* This old rajah, preferring retirement to power, voluntarily r
signed the kingly office.

Digged by Google

Cue. VHIJ A BOAT-LOAD OF BAJAHS.

lumber ! Dain Matara arrived after we had the
anchor up, with a renewal of the invitation from ~~
the pata mancowe. Leaving our anchorage off
Doping, which will be found marked, a vessel must
give a good berth to the next point called Redi,
passing between it and the large shoal in the offing,
which is a continuation of the second Lakatompah ;
a good look-out must be kept for detached patches,
and great care taken not to approach the shore, as
there is a line of shoal extending a long way out.

Passing Redi the land again sinks into a mode-
rately deep bay between that point and the point of
Akutaingan. Near the latter is the river of the
same name, the mouth of which, at low water, is
too shoal for our long boat, one mile and a half off
the shore. Our anchorage was about four miles
distant.

I got the rajahs and their attendants away as
speedily as possible, for I never was so sick as of
these senseless fools, who cannot move without
being followed by dozens of men and old women.

Digged by Google

126 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL.

A CYNICAL KINO AND BIS NO LESS CYNICAL MISTRESS. — FEA8T

OP TBS LOR DARA.- — NARROW ESCAPE OP THE ROYALIST.

ARRIVAL AT BOHI. FORTUNES OP THE CITY. EECEPTION

BY THE PATAUANCOWE. GOVERNMENT OP BON I. — LUDICROUS

ETIQUETTE AT THE COURT OF BONI. COSTUME OP THE

COURTIERS. — OBTAIN LEAVE TO VISIT THE CAVE OP XAMFO.

March 17 Followed the rajahs to Akutaingan,

which is situated about seventeen miles up the
stream. The banks are low and alluvial: the first
part through the mangrove belt, which girts this
part of the coast, and then gradually rising a few
feet, and covered with lively light foliage, inter-
mixed with occasional houses. In the evening we
arrived at, and got _ stowed away in, an excellent
house, without any furniture. Torrents of rain
descended during the night.

March 18. — This place being represented as
abounding with deer and wild buffaloes, we were
desirous of attacking them without delay; but
delay is the prevailing order of things in this land.
The late aru matoah visited us after breakfast:
an elderly good-looking savage, whose propensity
for wild life and the pleasures of the chase is so
strong, that he cannot prevail on himself to bear
the restraint of an occasional residence at Tesora,
for the discharge of his kingly functions. He re-
sides entirely in this wild country, holding little

Digged by Google

Chap. Dt.] A CYNICAL KING. 127

communication with the other chiefs ; and with his 1M0 -
followers devotes himself solely to the chase and
opium smoking. His habits are eccentric, as he
despises all the luxuries and conveniences of life.
His fare is homely, and derived from his favourite
pursuit. Home he has none ; a temporary shed or
an adjacent hut serving him as occasion requires,
whilst his own house, large and well finished and
far better than the generality of those possessed
by the chiefs, is untenanted, without mats, screens,
or any furniture.

This, as an honour, I suppose, was given to us ;
at any rate it was better than residing in the hovel
in which the chief bimself lived, where with dogs and
fighting-cocks within and horses without, we should
have found ourselves in entire discomfort. The
manners of this old man, like those of fox-hunting
squires of our own country, have a degree of frank-
ness and bluntness, mixed with the expression of
sovereign contempt for all other men and all other
pursuits, save those attached to the sports of the
field. On the inherent obtusenesB of his own nature
he seems to have engrafted some portion of the
sagacity of the dog and the generosity of the
horse ; and as his affection is centered in these
animals, they are the objects of admiration and
imitation.

A mistress, young and beautiful, follows the
fortunes of this old sporting chief, and perhaps the
link which binds him to her is her participation in
his pursuits. She hunts with him, wanders with

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOEE'S JOURNAL. [Ohaf. IX.

him, lives with him, and even smokes opium with
him. It grieved me to see so pretty a creature lost
to better things, for the expression of her face
bespoke so much sweetness and good temper, that
I am sure she was intended for a happier, a
better fate,
i. March 19. — Rain in the morning prevented our
taking the field till nine o'clock; and then they
mounted my followers so badly, that I threatened
to return. The country is very pretty, and the
view from the river side was as enticing a wood-
land scene as a sportsman could wish to cast his
eye over.

Patches or strips of wood, and swelling knolls,
broke the uniformity of the grass plain and gave
diversity to the chase. The sea, with our vessel
in the distance, and Latimojong, with his cloud-
capped head, added to the picturesque effect of the
scene. Over night an enclosure of about four miles
had been put round some detached covers, to pre-
vent the deer wandering from them.

This is formed by strips of the young leaf of the
lontar palm, wound on slight sticks ; which, being
white and waving to and fro, so frighten the deer
that they will not pass under them. The hounds
were turned in, and soon game was afoot. The
horsemen on the naked backs of their steeds, one
hand grasping the short bridle together with the
mane, the other bearing the spear with the noose
attached, dashed over the ground in fearless style,
at the top of their speed ; but in this chase the deer.

Digged by Google

Cur. IX.] FEAST OF THE LOR DABA. 129

would probably be too feat for them, if not con- IM0 -
fused and surrounded. ~~~

As it is, he turns and turns, to avoid first one
and then another, and is usually noosed as soon
as clear of the wood. When caught, his strength is
such that they are compelled to pierce him with
the spear, which is so contrived as to slip clear of
the rope, as a strain comes on it, leaving the deer
attached to the horse. The game being killed, chl-
lies, salt, and limes (always carried to the field),
are brought ; the heart taken out ; and, with
portions of the liver and inside of the thigh, is
minced and eaten raw with these ingredients —
the sauce being blood ! This is the real lor dara,
or feast of blood ; and neither record nor tradition
(that I could hear of) describes it as a practice
in war.*

The lor dara, as Z have described, would, no
doubt, shock the fastidious ; but I ate of it, and
found it by no means bad or revolting. To my
taste, it was preferable to devouring living oysters
or periwinkles, which those who shudder at this
custom are in the habit of considering a delicacy.
Our sport this day was not good ; our entertain-
ment rude; and as the old savage had thought
proper to mount us badly, I resolved to depart on
the return of our long boat.

March 20. — Long boat arrived ; and leaving March 20.
Akutaingan in the evening, we reached the

• Mr. B , whom I have often had occasion fa> mention, states

that he likewise has been unable to trace any such practice.
VOL. I. K

Digged by Google

130 me. brooee's journal. [Chaf.ix.

1840. Royalist at half-past eleven, after a delightful pull
by moonlight.

VnettSi. March 21. — At three, under weigh, beating with
a light breeze and cloudy weather, ran suddenly on
a shoal, not seen before, out of six fathoms in one
cast, into half two — went about, quarter two, and
on each side passed close through rocks on which
the vessel would have struck. The spot is marked.
Our escape was narrow; for with a slight heave
of a sea we should probably have met with con-
siderable damage. The navigation of this bay is
most critical, and in dark weather frightful.

March 23. March 23. — Reached Peneke and anchored.

March 24. March 24. — Having intimated our arrival to
the pata mancowe, an audience was fixed for the
day after to-morrow.

March 27. March 27 The meeting with the pata man-
cowe is over — the long-desired meeting which
lays all the Bugis country open to me: had this
event happened earlier, I might have made excel-
lent use of the advantage ; now, at this late sea-
son, I can do comparatively little. I may say,
with the poet, Dopo tanti gospiri € voti tanti, Te vedo
e calco libera terra. I may pride myself on having
slowly and gradually overcome their prejudices,
and triumph at this fruit of forbearance and
patience. Landing at Bajufe, with a large party of
ten persons, we proceeded on horseback to Boni,
situated to the westward about four miles distant.

The alluvial plain is about a dozen miles in
extent, and the surface is interspersed with large

Digged by Google

Chap. IX."j RECEPTION BY THE PATAMANKOWE.

masses of coral, proclaiming its once having been
covered by the sea. The country from Bajue to
Boni is cultivated and rich; and between the
two places is the village of Timojong — the name
of the high mountain, and the title of one of the
aru pitu. The capital of Boni was burnt to the
ground in the last war with the Dutch ; and it was
only a year or two ago that the patamankowe re-
turned to it. It stands on a rich and varied plain,
and some excellent new houses have already been
built.

On dismounting from our steeds, near the gate
of the court, we were met by the aru Tannete
under the gate-way, and conducted at once into
the presence of the patamankowe, A body of
3000 or 4000 men were ranged within and
without the court-yard, dressed precisely alike,
in skull caps and blue sarongs over the kris. A
dead silence was preserved as we passed through
them, and afforded a striking contrast to the in-
expressible tumult of our reception at Tesora.
Eight or ten spearmen, clad in coats of bright
chain armour, guarded the entrance, and pre-
sented the only display of arms we saw.

The patamankowe was seated at the head of a
table in a moderate-sized hall; on bis right sat
the tomarilalan, the aru Tannete, and the aru
Timojong : on the left our party took their seats.
Behind the monarch were half a dozen handsome
boys, his own relations ; and two rows of young
rajahs were seated cross-legged on bis right hand.

Digged by Google

132 ME. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. IX.

184ft Like those without, they were naked to the waist,
wearing only skull caps and sarongs, and pre-
serving a profound silence.

The patamankowe is about fifty years of age,
dark complexioned, with a good-tempered ex-
pression and pleasant manner. His stature is
above the middle height, and he is corpulent. His
dress was a plain long robe (like a morning gown)
of English chintz, fastened with a number of gold
studs at the throat and wrists ; his kris was quite
plain ; and he wore a black skull cap on his head.

The tomarilalan, an older-looking man, was
dressed in the same manner, and all present were
marked by the same plainness of attire. Being
seated, I expressed myself gratified at his receiv-
ing me, as he was aware that I was only a private
English gentleman, travelling for my own pleasure,
unconnected with any government. He replied he
was fully aware of it, and he likewise was a private
gentleman on this occasion.

Our conversation was well sustained : the great
man spoke much, inquired of our habits and cus-
toms, and the difference between ourselves and the
Dutch. Like the rest of the chiefs, he seemed
interested when I told him I had visited Turkey
(or Roum, as they call it), and spoke much of the
power of the sultan, inquiring whether the nations
of Europe did not pay tribute to him ! !

I presented him a watch, which he seemed
pleased with, but remarked that the Bugis always
managed to break them very soon. After much

Digged by Google

Chap. IX. 1 GOVERNMENT OF BOHI. 133

more conversation, and many expressions of his 184 °-
pleasure at seeing me, and my delight at seeing
him, I ventured to request permission to visit
Mampo. He hummed and hawed ; but, like a
skilful general, I pressed on with repeated
charges, till he intimated that he would send
people to the cave to see that it was fit to be
visited, and inform the rajah of the district of my
wish. I was forced to rest here; but was positively
told by my old acquaintance the Arab, that no
doubt I should get the desired permission.

March 31.. — A second meeting with the pata- March si.
mankowe leaves me little further to describe, the
ceremony being much the same as on the first
occasion. I must, however, mention the collation
of sweetmeats, which was excellent, various, and
delicate : coffee, which would have been considered
good in Stamboul or Paris, and tea fit to drink
even in Canton. I must here add a fresh list of
the aru pitu, obtained from a better authority
than the last. Perhaps they are the same ; but I
cannot refer conveniently to the former journal : —

Aru — Ujong,
Tannete,
Timojong,
Machege,
Pounching,
Tah.

I have no reason to alter the particulars I
formerly mentioned concerning the government

d by Google

mb. brooke's jodbnal. [&uf.ix.

of Boni, only qualifying it, however, with the
remark that the constitution is a name rather
than a reality at present ; the country, as far as
I can observe, being reduced under the despotic
sway of the patamankowe. The power of the
monarch seems to have no limit; none can ap-
proach him on terms' of equality, save the aru
matoah of Wajo, and the datu of Soping. The
authority delegated by hira to his minister appears
equally arbitrary, and the aru pitu — the great
council — is a mere tool in his hands. I shall not
allude to the condition of Boni, as I have spoken to
none of the chiefs on the politics of their country,
or of their feelings towards the Dutch; I have
rigidly adhered to my principle of not touching
on public affairs till my advice is sought; but
I believe, had I on this occasion broken through
my rule, I might have told these great men some
plain sensible truths, calculated to work well on
their politics generally. I am content, however, to
let the matter rest.

The etiquette of this court proves how despotic
it has become : when the patamankowe sits, all sit ;
when he rises, all rise : so far things are within
reasonable bounds ; but should he ride, and fall
from his horse, all about him must fall from their
horses likewise. If he bathe, all must bathe too,
and those passing go into the water in the dress,
good or bad, they may chance to have on.

The population of the town of Boni is as yet
small. Timojong, likewise, has not recovered the

Digged by Google

Chap. IX.] PROCEED TO MAHPO. 135

effects of war. Bajoe contains from 150 to 180 184a
houses. The country generally is well cultivated
and rather populous ; but I am by no means able to
form any estimate of the number of its inhabitants,
as so many are collected from a distance.

I forgot in its proper place to mention another
custom of the court : no one appears with a hand-
kerchief about the head, in the presence of the
patamankowe. The lower class wear the skull-
cap on the back of the cranium. The sovereign
and his brother wear it cocked to the left side;
other nobles to the right, and cocked according to
the rank ! White skull-caps distinguish the young
rajahs, who compose the body-guard, if it may be
so called ; that is, spear-bearers, sword-bearers, ciri-
box-bearers, spitoon-bearers, shield-bearers, &c, to
the amount of two hundred or three hundred. At
my last visit I saw the pangawa, who is dreadfully
ill, and I should think dangerously. His death
would disturb the country.

I likewise obtained leave to visit Mampo, under
the care of the aru Tannete, who proceeds by
land, whilst I sail to the mouth of the Chinrana
river. Much trouble have I taken to see this cave,
and now I begin to fear I may find my time and
pains have been thrown away in the pursuit of a
shadow. The exaggeration of the natives on all
occasions makes me apprehend this ; but they have
exaggerated so consistently, that I still hope to find
it worth something.

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

ENTER THE RIVER LATONRO IT3 BAMmCATIONS, AND THE

TOWNS ON ITS BANKS. — EC CIS HOSPITAL ITT. LOWER CHD*-

RAHA. FORT DDES. — CORAL ROCKS. MARKETS, — CHEAP-
NESS OF PROVISIONS. — APPROACH THE HILL Or MAMPO. — IN-
TERIOR OF THE CAVE. — HALLS, PASSAGES, AND STALACTITES.
— NATIVE SHRINES. — CORAL HILLS. — CDRBJCS EFFECTS OF

LIGHT. RESEMBLANCE TO THE HALLS OF ALHAMBRA. —

PROCEED UP THE RIVER, HERE BORDERED BT NUMEROUS

TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND GARDENS. FEUD AMONG THE NATIVE

CHIEFS. TROUBLES AND DISSENSIONS.

April 1. — Maraluatu anchorage. The Sadang
' or Lockuna river emerges, by numerous shallow
mouths, on each side of Tanjong Lowni. To
the southward and westward of the point are the
entrance of Maraluatu, Latonro, and two smaller
ones. The Lowni stream, to the northward and
eastward, is the principal outlet; and there is
another on the same side, farther to the northward.
These different branches join near Chinrana, which
is the key of the river, and consequently a place
of considerable importance.

I left the vessel in the evening, and entered the
mouth of Latonro, which is nearly dry at low water.
The straggbng town consists of 100 houses, situated
in the low ground, amid the mazes of the river.
A few fowls and other provisions may be procured
here, and fresh water may be had by going a few

Digged by Google

Chap.X.] RAMIFICATIONS OF THE LATONBO.

miles up. The stream is narrrow and winding,
and leads into the Lowni branch of the river, just
below the town of Lapanlimur.

The entrance by Lowni is reported by the na-
tives to have a passage with two fathoms ; and in
coming out of it at low tide, we found a fathom
water in many places over the bar, which leads me
to believe their statement. The bar spreads out
in fiats, and is covered with fishing-stakes : so a
vessel intending to enter should round the passage
well, as far up as the town of Lowni. In going up
the river, this straggling town stands on the right
hand, and opposite to it is Lankeron, together con-
sisting of 200 houses.

The stream above Lowni is fine, about 150 yards
broad, clear, and apparently deep, with muddy low
banks. A short distance above Lowni, on the
right bank, is the town of Lapanlimur, of eighty
houses. A few prahus are laid up here, and some
of the rudely constructed boats which trade to
Lowni. Two miles or more above Lapanlimur,
the river divides into two branches, the principal
one running to the left hand; they unite again
below Chinrana, forming an island covered with
cocoa-nuts and plantains. A little below, the Ma-
raluatu branch unites with the main stream. I
did not ascend it ; but from Mr. Murray's account
I learn there are about thirty houses at Maraluatu,
and that several branches run to the westward.
A small creek likewise unites it with the Latonro
entrance. Above the confluence of these different

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's joubnal. [cur.x.

streams, is the town of Chinrana, the residence
of the undri guru, a governor of the country.

We found every thing prepared for our arrival,
and were treated with the same hospitality and
kindness which has all along marked our progress.
Sweetmeats, with excellent coffee and tea, were
served up on our arrival at six o'clock, and at
nine, when I was seriously projecting an. escape
from the rajahs under the plea of going to bed,
we were astonished by the appearance of a sub-
stantial and excellent dinner. Currie, stews, forced
meats, omelets, and many other delicacies, tempted
us to renew the attack, more particularly as the
rajahs shared our repast, and frequently invited us
to lay aside all modesty and eat as though in our
own house. They are polite to their guests, and
encourage, but never press, you to eat.

A chintz curtain across the house formed our
sleeping-apartment ; and my bed, or inclosure par
excellence, was surrounded with another curtain.
Soft mats and numerous pillows make a comforts
able resting-place, when unassailed by musquitoes :
and on this particular night we had every thing in
great luxury.

April 2. — The town of Chinrana consists
of about 180 houses, stands close on the left
bank of the river, and is surrounded by groves
of fruit-trees, chiefly cocoa-nuts, plantains, and
mangoes ; and the remains of brick mosques, and
buildings, and wells, proclaim its former import-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. X.] CHINRANA. — MAHKET,

ance when it was the residence of the pata-
mankowe. This circumstance, perhaps, gave rise
to the mistake in the chartB, which place Boni ex-
actly where Chinrana stands. Its command of the
river renders it a place of importance ; and here
duties are levied on all classes of vessels passing
or repassing. The largest prahus pay as high as
eighty reals, and the smallest canoe not more than
one finam. These revenues, which must be con-
siderable, belong to the rajah pangawa, and nomi-
nally are appropriated to defray the expenses of the
war establishment.

At certain times of the year there is a consider-
able rise and fall of the river here ; but at this season
the water flows constantly down, the flood tide
only checking the current of the stream. The ebb
runs about three knots an hour ; but its force
depends entirely upon the quantity of rain which
has fallen. In the S.E., or dry monsoon, the river
is low, and the flood is stated to ascend as far as
the village of Ujong. At Chinrana, the banks of
the river are alluvial mud, with occasional patches
of coral ; and similar rocks are scattered over the
vast grass plains which compose the sea-belt of the
whole country.

A considerable market is held twice a-week ; and
provisions of all sorts in native use are both plenti-
ful and cheap. Rice of a reddish colour is sold at
three rupees and three and a half rupees a pikul*;

* Pikul, 1331b. avoirdupois*

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE S JOURNAL. [Chap. X

sugar-cane is in abundance, as is also Indian corn :
and vessels at the anchorage might here procure a
supply of fowls, from fifteen to twenty for a dollar,
according to size ; and a few buffaloes.

Our long-boat having joined us from the vessel,
we proceeded, after breakfast, in company with
numerous native boats and canoes, up the river.
The banks present the same pleasing and fertile
aspect ; and having with a light breeze stemmed the
current for several miles, we turned off into the
creek which leads to Unii. Two or three miles up
this narrow stream is the village of Ujongeh, of
twelve houses ; and farther up, the town of Unii,
of 100 houses, on the right bank ; the latter
stands on the plain, which is neatly cultivated ; but
the town itself appears poor and miserable. The
hill of Mampo, flat-topped and covered with wood,
is about two miles distant, and our expectations
being raised, we were disappointed at being obliged
to wait for the morrow. A restless night, tormented
with musquitoes, was borne with great patience by
us all, in the hope of what the morrow might bring
forth.

April 3. — Our party was up early, and started
in high spirits, but doubtful expectation, for the
Hill of Mampo. A mob of 200 or 300 accom-
panied us, seizing this favourable opportunity of
seeing what they had heard so much of. The
town of Alupang stands on the hill side, con-
sisting of seventy houses, and a short distance
above it is the entrance of the cave. The first

Digged by Google

Chap. X.] CAVE OP MAMPO.

glimpse at the opeDing destroyed my hopes of
finding any remains of an ancient religion within,
the entrance was so perfectly natural, low, ir-
regular, and dark. A further progress showed at
once the justice of these fears; for the cave ex-
pands into a lofty hall, dropping with the fantastic
forms of numerous stalactites.

The rest is soon told. Mampo cave is a pro-
duction of nature, and the various halls and pas-
sages exhibit the multitude of beautiful forms with
which nature adorns her works ; pillars, and shafts,
and fretwork, many of the most dazzling white,
adorn the roofs or support them, and the ceaseless
progress of the work is still going forward and
presenting all figures in gradual formation. The
top of the cave, here and there fallen in, gives
gleams of the most picturesque light, whilst trees
and creepers, growing from the fallen masses, shoot
up to the level above, and add a charm to the
scene. Yet was I greatly disappointed and en-
joyed the sight less than I should otherwise have
done.

These varied forms of stalactites the natives
speak of as figures ; a fallen pillar represents a
rajah ; and, by a like stretch of imagination, they
call various stones, dogs, horses, ships, rice, looms,
&c. Names arbitrarily enough bestowed, but
which retain their particular designations, and
produce their uniformity of statement when they
speak of the figures they each have seen in the
cave. Some parts of the cave are inclosed with

Digged by Google

142 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cbap. X.

1640. stones, and offerings of slight burning sticks,
similar to those used in Chinese temples, are stuck
round them. The path to these shrines is so well
trodden, that they are evidently much frequented
by the natives.

Amid this disappointment it was some compen-
sation to discover that the hill of Mampo was
entirely composed of coral rock, and that the sta-
lactites are formed of the carbonate of lime, with
minute particles of crystals intermixed. There
is every reason to suppose that the excavations
were, in times past, formed by the sea, and that
Mampo Hill, now surrounded by the alluvial plain,
was once what Palette now is, both having ante-
cedently been islands, and then points. Mampo is
a remarkably flat-topped woody hill, about 400
feet high, and a prominent feature in the fore-
ground after passing Tanjong Palette. The emi-
nences about it, and detached from the lower
range, may be presumed to be of similar construc-
tion, and they mark well the recession of the sea
from the mountains.

The hundreds of dark figures with flaming
torches mingling their light with the streams of
sunbeams from the roof — their yells and shouts
as they entered the spacious halls, and the time
— the clime — the spot — all produced a highly
picturesque effect ; yet I could not enjoy, though
I admired ; and my chief comfort was, that I might
spare other travellers from being misled by the
exaggerated, but consistent, account of the natives.

Digged by Google

Chap. X.] CAVE OF MAMPO. 143

The European imagination would deck this cave 184a
with all the semblance of a cathedral, with some "

slight approximation to the reality; they would
see the shrines of saints or heroes — the Gothic arch
— the groined roof — the supporting pillars.

The natives, from tradition as well as imagina-
tion, bestow on the varied shapes of stalactites
the names of men, of beasts, or of birds. The
halls of Alhambra are the nearest approach to the
caves of nature's formation, and, we may suppose,
they were first imitations of Nature's subterranean
works.

The transition from the dim light and freshness
of the cave into the bright glare of a tropical sun
was very displeasing ; and I felt glad, after an ex-
cursion of some hours, to return to our quarters at
Unli.

On the way back, Spence *, rashly changing
horses with Dam Matara, was run away with, and
got a severe fall, which deranged his head so much
from the concussion that he could remember no-
thing. I was anxious about him ; but a few hours'
quiet brought him round, and his scattered wits
returned. It was well his brains, instead of his
wits, were not scattered ; for the foolish fellow had
made his sarong fast to the horse's bridle, in order
to keep tight a number of specimens which he had
collected in the cave ; the sarong being round his
own waist, it was a wonder he did not lose his life.

* One of the seamen.

Digged by Google

ME. BROOKE'S JOURNAL.

1840. April 4. — Off shortly after daylight, and got
April 4. m t-° th e ™ain river when the Bun had been up half
an hour. At a moderate distance above the junc-
tion on the left bank, is the village of Ujong, of
ten houses, and some distance beyond the boundary
of the Wajo and Boni countries, which iB marked
on the chart. Hence the right bank belongs to
Wajo ; the left, to Boni.

Proceeding onward, we reached the creek of Solo
on the right, bordered by a hamlet of ten houses.
The next village is Bolah, on the left bank, of ten
houses ; and a creek leads to a town of the same
name, said to be as large as Tanchung. A consi-
derable way further up, is the town of Fompanua
(the boundary of Boni, which here joins Poraana),
attached to Wajo, but nearly independent of it.
The datu Poraana is likewise the pate filla, one
of the six chiefs of Wajo. The representative ia
at present an " old lady."

Pompanua is a large town, and the principal
place where the prahus lie up. It consists of
about 600 houses, and appears to be flourishing.
We here counted nineteen prahus, many of a large
size, either on the river bank or in the creek which
runs through the town. The distances of the
various places were taken by Mr. Murray on our
way up ; but I am not able to give the account in
timet as we have no watches with us! and with a
current varying in force in the different reaches,
there is little idea to be formed from a mere
estimate in time.

Digged by Google

Chap. X.] BANKS OF THE BITER.

As far as Pompanua, the banks of the river
present a perfect garden bordered with fruit-trees,
viz. the mango, plantain, cocoa-nut, jacfc-durien,
&c, and numerous detached houses or farms are
scattered along. There is much cultivation of rice
and Indian corn behind the fringe of wood at the
back of the grassy plain, and altogether the country
wears an aspect of cheerfulness and comfort. The
river seems clear as far as Pompanua, and thus
high it is navigable for craft of 150 or 200 tons.
Beyond this it may be so likewise ; but it seems
doubtful, and, indeed, no advantage could accrue to
a European vessel from going up the river, as the
means of water carriage are plentiful. A short dis-
tance above Pompanua, the old river discharges
itself into the present stream. The efflux of this
ancient branch has already been noticed in the
voyage from Tesora to Tempe. Nearly opposite the
junction of the waters stands Tobako, of 100 houses,
on the left bant, which now assumes a grassy
character, the belt of fruit-trees not reaching
above Pompanua.

A short distance from Tobako, on the same side,
is Kompiri, of 200 houses. A few prahus are laid
up here, in one of which we rested our crew for an
hour. We had before stopped for half an hour for
breakfast. From Kompiri we towed, as long as the
ground would allow, to the village of Balong, of
ten houses, on the right bank, nearly opposite
which is a branch called WeUungan, which rejoins
the main stream below Lagusi. At the entrance

VOL. I. L

Digged by Google

MR. Brooke's journal. [Crap. X.

of the Wellungan, is a town of the same name,
of sixty houses, and half a mile from thence is
NusI, of forty houses, both on the left side of the
Wellungan.

The next town, at no great distance, is Lagusi,
the approach to which is marked by gardens and
fruit-trees. Off the town, the river divides into
numerous branches, and the current is very strong.
Lagusi is on the left bank, and is the capital of the
rajah Fomana. The recession of the river from
Tesora has made Lagusi a place of great im-
portance : it occupies a large space of ground, and
has at least a thousand houses, being by far the
most populous town I have seen in Bugisland.

The datu Lagusi or Pomana is a supporter of
rajah Lappa Gnorisan in Si Dendring. Her power
is great ; and, united with Si Dendring, equal to that
of the rest of Wajo. Opposite Lagusi is a narrow
creek for canoes, which leads to the vicinity of
Tesora ; but the channel would not admit the gig,
and, though evening was closing on us, we had to
advance up the river. The next town is Katena,
on the left bank, containing, it is said, about sixty
houses ; and thence a good pull took us to Sabang,
on the same side of the river, of seventy houses.
Above Sabang we emerged from the main stream
into the old river, just at dusk, and pulled on long
after dark, groped our way through the Tesora
creek, and arrived at the datu lampola's house,
about nine in the evening. The latter part of our
voyage was very wet; and the entire pull from

Digged by Google

Chap.XJ feud among native chiefs. 147

6 a.m. till 9 p.m., with only one hour and ahalf rest, 1M0 -
was trying to the boat's crew. I cannot apeak
too highly of the Malays, they do hard work not
only well, but so cheerfully, that it is a pleasure to
Bee them.

April 5. — I found the datu in great distress, in April c.
consequence of a feud which had broken out be-
tween two of his chief supporters, namely, the rajahs
Pajumparueh and Earain, the former the brother
of the rundrang Tuwah, the latter the chief of
Tempe. I have already mentioned the dissolute
and vagabond habits of Earain's followers; and that
their master encouraged them to plunder, and per-
haps received some portions of the spoil. It appears,
that one of his followers entered the house of Pa-
jumparueh, and carried off property to the amount
of 500 reals, consisting chiefly of gold-mounted
spears, gold ciri and tobacco-boxes, with other
ornaments and some money. A comrade, likewise
in the following of Earain, from revenge informed
Pajumparueh who had committed the robbery, and
Earain was peremptorily required to restore the
property, or make good the loss. His answer was,
he knew nothing about it, and would not make the
loss good. Both chiefs collected their followers,
and a civil war was impending in the country. The
arun Ujong joined Pajumparueh, and the datu,
declaring his neutrality, was met with reproaches
both by his nephew Ujong, and his brother-in-law,
Earain.

Digged by Google

MR. BEOOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Cmap. X.

Had this war commenced, it would, of course, have
weakened his cause, both parties being, not only
his supporters, but his relations. Under these cir-
cumstances, I resolved not to be the bearer of any
letters to our government as they had requested ;
for the distracted chiefs know not what they want;
and though Boni may be sincere in desiring a good
understanding, the fluctuating councils of Wajo
render it very doubtful. The appointment of an
aru matoah, by restoring their original form of
government, is the most likely measure to draw a
strong party to a focus, steady their councils, and
curb their chiefs ; much, of course, will depend on
the talent and activity of the person appointed.
This, however, must be risked, and at any rate
the shadow of an aru matoah is a rallying point
for tbe pangawas and freemen, and gives a re-
sponsible head of the country. I resolved to make
one push with the aru beting to induce him to ap-
point the chief magistrate, and accordingly waited
on him. I was well supported by tbe pangawas,
several hajjis, and the matoah of Tesora ; and
after Bome converse and much flattery, per-
suaded him to promise before all, that there should
positively be an aru matoah that very month. The
feud between the chiefs was to be suppressed by
the aru beting, the datu, and the pangawas, and,
if requisite, to be subsequently decided, by the
aru matoah. All this sounds well ; but I have no
assurance that the appointment will take place, as

Digged by Google

Chat. X..] TROUBLES AND DISSENSIONS.

the aru beting is a weak old man, turned by every
breath of council and every woman's will ; yet there
are those about him who may keep him to the
point, for all the best and most respectable people
are urgent on the occasion.

lignbcd by Google

150 mb. brooke's journal.

DEPASTURE FROK CHWRANA. — PRESENTS. — NATIVE TRADITION

ON THE ORIGIN OF THE BAJOW RACE. RESUME THE VOYAGE,

AMD SAIL ALONG THE COAST. MAGNIFICENT BCENEHT.

ANCIENT STATE OP LTTWTJ. RAVAGES OF THE SMALL-POX.

GOVERNMENT OF tXTWV. — WILD TRIBES DS THE MOUNTAINS.

TRADE. LANGUAGE. DEPARTURE FROM LUWC. COAST

AMD ISLANDS. — FEATURES OF THE COAST. — DANGEROUS
BEEFS.

April 6, — Left Tesora after breakfast, and dropped
' down the old stream which runs into the present
river above Pompanua. A short way below Tesora
creek on the left hand, is the village of Chillaeh, of
five houses. Below, on the same side, Palisu, by
account of eighty- six houses, the only two places
on the old Btream.

About four we re-arrived at Chinrana, and were
treated in the same hospitable style as before.

April 7. — Leaving Chinrana, we issued by the
Lowni entrance already described, and sailed round
to the vessel. A detached sand-bank, with a few
shrubs on it, lies off Point Lowni, but the channel
on the inside is nearly dry at low water. The
young rajah Dain Palawa came on board, and I
underwent the usual talk ; but I must here say I
like this person, who, on acquaintance proves frank,
pleasing, and kind. This is the amende honorable

April 6.

Digged by Google

Chap. XI. 1 ORIGIN OP THE BAJOW RACE. 151

for having previously abused him. I made him a 1M0 -
few presents, and was not sorry to see him sail off.

April 8 At two in the morning came three Ap™ 1 8 *

boats laden with rice, a present from the rajah
pangawa, besides some fowls, &c. Thirty pikul
of rice, though acceptable, was more than I wanted ;
but, nevertheless, I kept it, as a set-off against the
rifle I presented to the chief. At 4 A. M. sent
Dain Matara to Bajue for a Bajow pilot, and if
possible to procure a loan of money. He returned
at 4, bringing what I wanted, in the questionable
shape of 12,000 pice in a huge bag. With him,
too, came the laleran Bajow, and the pilot. The
laleran- was a sensible old man, and in reply to my
questions respecting the traditionary accounts of
the origin of the Bajow race, gave me the follow-
ing history : —

The Bajow emigrated from the kingdom of
Menangkabu, under the command of a young rajah,
a relation of the royal family. Arriving in Bugis-
land, they were hospitably received by the king of
Goa, who assigned the young prince an island for
his residence and kingdom. From him and his
followers sprung the Bajow race ; but their
island being small, they soon betook themselves
to their boats, and like their original princes,
sought a home and riches on the sea. They have
no distinct written characters, but use either the
Malay or Bugis in their books of law and regula-
tions, the language, however, being Bajow. I
tried in vain to procure one of these books, as it

d by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [Chap, xi

would be curious to obtain the maritime code of
a maritime people — without a country, whose
home is their prahu, and whose livelihood is gained
by collecting the produce of the sea and shores of
distant islands. We may presume that laws made
to suit such a state of society would be peculiar.

The Bajow of Bugis are all under the command
of one or other of three chiefs, called lollos, below
these is the title of laleran.

In the evening I weighed anchor to be quite
sure of getting clear of my Boni friends, and dropped
it between Tanjong Lowni and Laboto.

April 9. — Under weigh, with a light breeze —
calm in the middle of the day — under weigh again
in the evening. Passed over our old ground, and
anchored beyond point Akutaingan, opposite the
small stream Kera, which is distinguished by a
hillock in the foreground. The next point is Ma-
rasanga, between which and Akutaingan, the land
forms a long bay. Akutaingan is an undefined
point. To the northward of Kera the ground
behind the mangrove belt becomes hilly.

April 10. — Tanjong Marasanga is low, and
covered with light green trees. Beyond this is an
extensive bay, within which are many minor ones.
The first of these is Sewa, with a river near the
point, leading to a considerable town. The next
is Tanjong Sompano, then Tongaeh. A short dis-
tance beyond Kera is the boundary of Wajo, where
the Boni territory extends once more nearly to
Tongaeh, joining the Luwu boundary, at a hill

i by Google

Chap. XL] COAST SCENERY. 153

with a peculiar notch, distinctly seen in sailing 1S4 °-
along. The scenery from Marasanga changes its
character ; the mangrove shore disappears, and is
succeeded by wood, and a magnificent highland
prospect — hill piled upon hill, with Latimojong
crowning all. This day we made poor progress ;
the wind was light in the evening, and calm in the
morning. There are shoals a moderate distance
in the offing, which reach to Marasanga. Beyond
that point the navigation is clear as far as we have
gone, with deep water — thirty and thirty-five
fathoms, two miles from shore — sixteen fathoms
where we lie, one and a quarter off shore, and not
far from Tanjong Tongaeh.

April 11. — Calm all the morning; the light April 11.
breeze from the S. E. began to breathe about 11;
by 12 it freshened, and we ran merrily along
the coast. The point next to which we lay is
Larompo ; there are one or two more within the bay,
but not of any Importance. The outer point is
called Jenemaijai (or red water) Point; it is low and
green, a tongue of alluvial land shooting from the
mountains. This large bay, it must be understood,
is comprised between Marasanga and Jenemaijai ;
it does not run far in. The water is deep, and
clear of all danger, save near the shore ; the beach
is woody, with noble mountains, a continuation of
Latimojong, rising behind it. Off Jenemaijai the
water is discoloured by a stream which discharges
itself near the point whence it derives its name.
A short sail brings you to another point, the name

d by Google

154 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XI.

1840. f which I could not ascertain; from thence the
" land slopes to the westward, forming a bay ter-

minated by Tanjong Buah, whence the land again
slopes gradually westward to another point ; near
which is an island and an other bay, and within li.es
Palopo, the capital of Luwu. The wind died away
at dusk, and we came to anchor in sixteen and a
half fathoms, about two miles off shore. — Prospect
magnificent.
April 14. April 14, — Luwu is the oldest Bugis state, and
the most decayed. Its internal anarchy prevented
my remaining long, or seeing the country ; but the
prospect from our anchorage, off Libukongeh, h
not to be described. A narrow slip of alluvial soil
lies at the foot ofthe mountains, and Palopo stands
on the sea-shore, amid small streams. The moun-
tains stretch away to the northward, and a spur
branches to the eastward round the head of the
bay, leaving a considerable plain. Off the points,
which form the creek of Palopo, are three shoals
plainly to be distinguished — the rest of the navi-
gation is clear, and a vessel might lie well in with
the island of Libukongeh. Nearly to the north-
ward of Libukongeh is a green hill of some size,
which, on rounding the far point, is the best lead-
ing mark for Palopo. We anchored a mile and a
half from the island, and I despatched a boat in-
stantly for provisions. Palopo is a miserable town,
consisting of about 300 houses, scattered and di-
lapidated. The small-pox had succeeded the civil
war, and was even more destructive to the popula-

i by Google

Chat. XI.] MINKOKA DISTRICT. 155

tion. The death of the late rajah, nearly two 184 °-
years since, left his sons to contest the succession.
After a severe struggle they agreed upon a truce,
and buried the old monarch ; and, even now some
hopes remain of a final accommodation between
the parties.

The government of Luwu is more simply des-
potic than either Wajo or Boni. The monarch is
styled pajungeh, with whom are the patunru *, pa-
bechara, tomarilalan, and balironti. The title of
the high nobility is " offu," tantamount to the term
pata in the other countries. The two claimants to
the throne are the youngest son of the late pajungeh,
and his sister, the wife of the offii patunru. It is
difficult to believe that Luwu could ever have been
a powerful state, except in a very low stage of
native civilisation. The situation is entirely moun-
tainous, and the lowlands are not extensive enough
to support a large population. The hills are peopled
by wild tribes, and the depth of the bay prevents
the facility of communication with other parts of
the Archipelago. Ancient Luwu, however, em-
braced, according to Sir Stamford Raffles, the
country to Chinrana, including the left bank of
the Welluna. It is probable ; but where, then, was
Wajo ? The dialect is distinct, both from that of
Goa and Boni.

The entire country is wretchedly poor, and both
rice and salt are transported from Boni or Makassar,

* Father of Council.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XI

The trade with the head of the bay is carried
on in small prahus, and the returns are principally
wax. The Turajah, who inhabit the hills, are
undoubtedly the original inhabitants of Bugis ; and
in dress, or rather no dress, bear a resemblance to
the Dyaks of Borneo. They are not converted to
Islam, and are said to seek heads on the occasion
of a great chief's death, but not to keep them in
their houses. I saw about twenty of them in the
market-place at Palopo, but they spoke no Bugis,
and were very shy and frightened. In feature and
appearance they differed nothing from the Bugis.
Their principal country is represented to be Bada,
an independent state, where they are both nu-
merous and powerful. Bada, however, is at a
considerable distance from Luwii.

The tribe of Balusa are within two days' journey,
and others, scattered nearer, are under the do-
minion of the Bugis. Those I saw bore marks of
great poverty, and had brought down small quan-
tities of paddy for sale, from the produce of which
they buy salt and other necessaries. An intelligent
native told me their language somewhat resembled
that of Goa ; and, from the few words I heard them
speak, I thought it soft and pleasing. They have
no written characters. I stayed at Luwii from the
morning of the 12th to the morning of the 16th,
and then quitted it with a light breeze. A mode-
rate supply of provisions may be procured, chiefly
fowls, at from twenty to thirty the dollar. Wood

Digged by Google

.Cur. XL] DESCEND THE COAST. 157

and water are plentiful, and more conveniently to 1B4 °-
be got than elsewhere in the bay.

April 16.— Leaving Luwu, we stood close hauled, April ie.
with a light breeze, along the shore, which is low,
but with deep water, and only one shoal, which we
saw. Passing several inferior points, we anchored
near the more prominent one of Chappa Salo, with
a river of that name ; there is likewise a town up
the stream,

April 17. — A night of rain, thunder, and light- April 17.
ning — the morning clear, with a light air off
shore, and we were enabled to get a beautiful view
of the mountains which from Luwu run to the
northward a short distance, and then curve with
the bay to the north-east. The space between the
sea and mountain is of the same character as here-
tofore, viz. low ground fringed with mangrove,
and intersected by numerous streams. The bay
from Palopo runs about north-east to east. We
sailed some way along the shore, passing several
rivers and points, and at night anchored in thirteen
and a half fathoms water.

April 18. — Got under weigh, and stood along April ie.
shore till well abreast of a magnificent mountain,
which is as high, or nearly so, as Lumpu Batang,
and protrudes in front of the amphitheatre which
encircles the head of the bay. We were in search
of a place called Wotu ; but when about coming to
an anchor, our Bajow pilot was obliged to confess
he did not rightly know where it was.

Getting under sail again, with a very light breeze,

Digged by Google

MR. HBOOKB 8 JOURNAL. [Ck*p. XI.

we saw a canoe which had come off from the Offu
Undri Guru at Burow ; and understanding they
had some provisions, of which we were greatly in
want, came to an anchor at 1 p. M., and sent off
our long boat. I may state that between Chappa
Salo and Burow are the river and town of Low-
wo, and beyond Burow lies Watto, called in the
charts Wattoeh Wenua, the country of Watto.
The site of Low-wo is not ascertained, and other
towns of equal size exist, of which we are neces-
sarily ignorant.

April 19. — The boat returned late from Burow,
bringing a buffalo, three goats, and a fowl, in ex-
change for a few articles of British manufacture.
Another buffalo was likewise promised at the same
price, if we would send to-morrow. Burow is
situated about a mile up the small stream, and con-
sists of about 100 houses — country low, jungle,
and hardly any cultivation. Mr. Murray was de-
spatched in the gig, to go round the head of the
bay, and lay it down; at night he returned, having
completed his task: he found the shores low,
covered with mangroves, and numerous rivers,
some of large size ; but there is no outlet this way
by the sea, which I conceived might possibly be
the case. At the head of the bay lie the town and
river of Ubu, the latter has, by the native ac-
counts, seven mouths. The head of the bay is, as
may be perceived by reference to the chart, narrow
and wedge-shaped. The eastern shore, however,
is entirely distinct in character, being bold, and

Digged by Google

Chip. XL] CHABACTBB OF 8CENEBY. 159

abrupt, whilst the northern is separated from the *■*>•
mountains by the alluvial plain so often referred to.

1 may here mention that the natives gave me .
the following names for the high mountain, near
which we are anchored: — 1st, Wowwindre; 2d,
Koria ; 3d, Tampoki ; these probably refer to
different peats, or portions of it. Tampoki is, I
believe, the highest peak.

April 20. — Crossed over to the eastern bank, April 20.
and made it out to be an island, called Pulo Paloeh
(or separated mountain), which is bold and wooded,
being divided from the main by a moderate chan-
nel. Tradition says Sawira Gading anchored on
the coast; and cutting down a tree, it fell and
divided this island from the shore.

Beyond Pulo Paloeh is Tanjong Lawake, which
forms a deep bay, with other bights and points
within. "We came to anchor off a headland, lying
near the mouth of one of the coves, which I
visited ; the situation is easily discovered by some
reddish white cliffs which form the eastern side of
the entrance. The western opening has a coral
reef stretching off it ; within the cove are nume-
rous islands of fantastic and irregular shapes, and
coral reefs, with deep water between them. The
scenery is most picturesque, as, indeed, it is all along
the coast — bold wood-covered hills, with high
mountains behind — bays, and valleys, and islands,
and the bluest water. Where we anchored, less than
half a mile from the shore, there were twenty-three
fathoms, stiff clay bottom. The point beyond our

Digged by Google

160 mb. bbooke's journal. [Catr.xi.

1840. anchorage is called Lelewawo, and with Lawake
forms the bay.

April si. April 21. — Calm and light breeze. Passed
Lelewawo with an island off it, within which is a
stream and town of the same name, and anchored
at night in twenty-three fathoms water, three quar-
ters of a mile off shore.

April 22, April 22. — Continued calms and light airs.
Passed the prominent point of Susua. Beyond
Susua are other bold headlands, two of which are
named Libnandala and Labekara. The former is
the next, or next but one from Susua — the latter
the fourth point ; but I cannot speak with any cer-
tainty. This evening, off these promontories we
found no anchorage, and had to lie-to all night ;
running along shore shortly after dark, the coast
appearing very bold, we passed suddenly into fifteen
and then eight fathoms ; deepened again to fifteen
— forty-five, and no bottom at fifty fathoms. This
reef is off the next point to Susua, and we were ad-
vertised ofits proximity by the smell of decomposed
matter that came from it. After this I ran back
a short distance to the ground we had passed over,
and lay-to. Towards evening it fell calm, however,
and we drifted to the southward, within a mile of
another reef.

Digged by Google

Coa*. XII.] TUMBOLI.— PADAMABUNQfeH.

CHANGES IN THE ASPECT OF THE COAST SHOALS. — MIKKOKA

DISTRICT AND TRIBE. LANGUAGE OF THE MINXOKAS —

THEIR MANNERS AND RELIGION STATURE AND COSTUME

RESEMBLANCE TO THE DYAKS. — LEAVE-TAKING AND FUNERAL

FEASTS. SUPERSTITIONS 07 THE INLAND TRIBES. — TRADING

HABITS. CHEAPNESS OF COMMODITIES.-— DESCEND THE COAST.

— CHARACTER OF THE SCENERT. SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS.

BONXHIAN. — SAMARANG ROADSTEAD. — SINGAPORE.

April 23. — Aptes an anxious night, made sail and 1840.
saw the reef before mentioned and many others a p hi 23.
both within and without : the channel, however, is
good in clear weather. The mountain region gra-
dually smooths down after running some distance
along the bold coast, and slight strips of alluvial
plain again intervene here and there between the
highlands and the sea. Shoals numerous and far
out, some very large, are reported along the coast
beyond Labekara.

The direction of the coast is south east : the next
prominent point, with two islands near it, is called
Tumboli : a shoal or two is in the vicinity, easily
discernible. The land from Tumboli sinks into a
deep bay, across the mouth of which is a cluster
of islands, the largest called Padamarungeh : we
steered in for the inner point, and came to an an-
chor in the bay in nineteen fathoms, soft bottom.

April 24 Passed between the island of Pada- April 24.

marungeh and a low point of the main, called

vol. 1. M

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [Cup. xil

Ajuaringeh. The channel is clear away from the
shore. Steering nearly east across the next bay, look-
ing for Minkoka, we found it filled with shoals, and
bore away E. by N. and E. N. E., finally bringing
up at an excellent anchorage off the river Pondui,
in twelve fathoms.

I now discovered that Minkoka is the name of a
district and tribe, as well as of a small river in this
bay. Pondui has about ten or fifteen straggling
houses, chiefly belonging to Bugis residents ; but
the Minkoka people live scattered along the coast,
and in the interior near Pondui is the village of
Kalaka, inhabited by them, and not far removed is
the Bajow Kampong of Pasuloi.

The country is attractive and partially cleared :
the high mountains sink to wood-covered bills of
moderate size ; with intervening valleys, and a strip
of alluvial plain on the sea shore. The population,
as I have said, is scattered, and consists chiefly of
Minkoka people, with some Bugis and Bajow settlers
and traders. The greater part of the bay is choked
with shoals ; and coming into it, as mentioned,
vessels should keep along the shore of the main,
after clearing the channel between Ajuaringeh and
the island ; giving it, however, a sufficient offing,
and looking out for shoals, as one or two are to be

April 25. April 25. — I was most anxious to procure pro-
visions at this place, as I began to fear our stock of
salt meat would not last, even to Samarang. It has,
indeed, been a great drawback, for the latter part of

Digged by Google

Chap. XII.] THE MINKOKAS. 163

this cruise, to be forced to look to the country for ie4a
our supplies ; and here they have altogether failed
us, as far as I can see at present. A boat I de-
spatched to Pansuloi returned unsuccessful, and
the neighbouring villages only yielded one goat
and a few fowls.

I was enabled during the day to see two or three
Minkoka people, and to make a vocabulary of their
language, which bears some affinity to the dialects
of the Battas and Rejangs of Sumatra.

April 26. — Procured one buffalo, the promise of April 26,
a second, a goat, and some fowls. Numbers of the
Minkokas visited us, and gave me an opportunity
of inquiring into their habits and manners, and
correcting my vocabulary from some of their supe-
rior people. These people may generally be stated
to inhabit the bays between Tanjong Tamboli, and
Tanjong Okoko, and the interior mountains. To
the eastward they are bounded by a tribe called
Rumbia, whose country stretches to the eastern
shores of Celebes, and with whom they occasionally
wage wars.

It is necessary, however, to divide the Minkokas
into two, or even more communities, namely, the
people inhabiting the coasts, and those in the moun-
tains. The former have in some measure been
civilised by their intercourse with the Bugis and
Bajow people, and have nominally adopted the
religion of Islam, without, however, rejecting their
own barbarous customs and habits. Indeed, their

Digged by Google

1 64 MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XIL

1840. religion seema to consist in little more than reject-
ing the use of pork. Their language, as I have
said, bears some affinity to the dialect of Sumatra,
as likewise to the Malay and Bugis : in short, it is
of the common stock.

In personal appearance they resemble the Bugis :
they are well made, but of low stature, and clean
limbed, and clothed in the short trowsers, and
some with the sarong. They wear the hair long,
rarely have a covering on the head, and their arms
are ornamented with rings of plaited bamboo or
straw, and carved shells. These ornaments, how-
ever, are by no means common, and are chiefly
confined to the few who lived a short distance in
the interior.

The kris is rare amongst them, and evidently
adopted from their neighbours ; but they carry a
short sword, usually ornamented with a tuft of
human hair at the handle. The sumpitan is in use,
the arrows of which are poisoned, and they have
likewise spears and long swords. It would be
curious to inquire how far these people resemble the
Dyaks of Borneo, with whom most writers have
classed them, marking at the same time how far
they differ from them, and how far the Dyak tribes
difier amongst themselves. I may say then briefly,
that in personal appearance there is no marked dif-
ference from those I have seen on the west coast of
Borneo, and that their weapons, especially the sum-
pitan and short sword, are the same, or nearly so.
The ornaments of human hair are common to both.

Digged by Google

Chap. XIL] HABITS OF THE MINKOKAS.

In that peculiar and striking custom of taking heads
they also resemble. In Borneo with the Kyans,
and in Celebes with the Minkokas, this custom
seems limited to funeral or festive occasions, more
especially on the death of their rajah or chief.

When this occurs here, they sally forth with a
white band across their forehead, to notify their ob-
ject, and destroy alike their enemies and strangers.
Their depredations are stated to be carried on chiefly
in the Rumbia country, the people of which
retaliate in kind, on the demise of their chief ; but
the Bugis and Bajow settlers assured me they had
no apprehension on their own account, as they
never attacked people they knew had settled in
their country. From twenty to forty heads, ac-
cording to the rank of the deceased rajah, being
procured, buffaloes are killed, rice boiled, and a
solemn funeral feast is held, and whatever time may
elapse, the body is not previously buried. The
heads on being cleaned, are hung up in the houses
of the three principal persons of the tribe, and
regarded with great veneration and respect. It is
not necessary, as with the Dyaks, to procure a
skull previous to marriage ; nor, except on the oc-
casions mentioned and during war, do they take
any heads.

The Minkoka people marry only one wife. They

live divided in small communities, and their houses

have no resemblance to those of the Dyaks, being

mere common-sized huts. The chief of the people

m a

Digged by Google

mr. bbooke's journal. [Chap, xit.

on the sea shore reside at Pandokolo, an hour's
" journey, or two, from the Bajow Kampong.

The interior tribes acknowledge other chiefs, and
are, as I have said, less civilised than those I had
principally an opportunity of seeing : they are repre-
sented as wearing the bark of trees round their loins.
Some of this bark cloth I procured from them : it
is neatly manufactured, whilst the armlets of split
bamboo are so finely worked, that they would do
credit to a European artisan.

The religion of these people I had little oppor-
tunity of inquiring about. The inhabitants of the
coast, professing Mahomedanism, worship particular
trees or stones painted red, and make their offerings
at those shrines, much after the fashion of the Bugis
themselves, who are superstitiously inclined. The
Bugis assured me they were not given to stealing,
and were to be trusted by their friends, and a good
character from them goes a long way, as they are
little inclined to speak highly of a wild tribe, whom
they evidently consider a very inferior class.

The Minkokas are keen barterers ; numbers of
canoes came off to us with various commodities.
Amongst these were sago, wax, cocoa-nuts, arms,
ornaments, fowls, mats, &c. which they freely gave
for cotton handkerchiefs and bottles: pickle and
mustard bottles they preferred ; and for one of the
former either a large or two small fowls were given.
The wax is of excellent quality, and may be had in
considerable quantities. The Bugis told me it
Btood them in twelve or fifteen dollars* worth of

Digged by Google

Chap. X1L] TRADE WITH THE MINKOKAS. 167

goods a pikul, but that the collection was tedious isio.
and annoying. This same wax sells in Singapore
from thirty-two to thirty-five dollars a pikul, which
is fine profit, and would justify some extra exertion
of patience. 1 procured as a sample two pounds and
a half of wax for a red cotton handkerchief (worth,
say eight-pence, which price would bear out the
Bugis statement). Sago may be had for a song —
two cotton handkerchiefs of superior quality (worth,
say two shillings), bought sixty pounds of sago, and
no doubt would have purchased more had I been a
bargainer, as I ought to be, and as other folks are.

Indeed the Minkoka people behaved very well
and civilly, more especially respecting the pro-
visions, of which I now find I may have any
quantity. Cocoa-nuts sold from seventy to one
hundred for a small red cotton handkerchief.

April 27. — It was a perfect fair on board all this April 37.
morning, bartering for goods ; and all seemed well
pleased with their exchanges. We added a second
buffalo to our stock, which we got for a musket and
six yards of white cloth. At length, a breeze spring-
ing up, our anchor was weighed, and I bade adieu
to Minkoka, which I would willingly have seen more
of, had it been in my power.

April 28 Beating all day to windward with a April 2*.

light breeze and opposing current, anchored in
the evening inside the first island, having thus
retraced our path from Pondui. There is a passage
from thence amongst the reefs out by Okoko,
which is the bluff point seen from the anchorage ;

Digged by Google

Me. brooke's joubnaj.. [chap. xn.

but this passage is reported to be intricate and
difficult being full of shoals on either band. Having
no pilot, I conceived it best to run out the way we
came in, as it did not seem quite sure that we could
go out the other way, and, at any rate, not without
a fair wind. A ship entering this bay by Okoko
ought to take the greatest care and previously ex-
amine the passage ; for, as far as I could see, it ap-
peared a mass of shoals. Thirty reefe and upwards
were counted from the mast-head as we came into
the bay, lying between us and the eastern shore.

April 29. — My birthday ; but let that pass, as I
am too old to take much delight in its recurrence.
A very light breeze during the day carried us off
Tanjong Okoko, then a dead calm till ten at night,
between which time and four I ventured to run
down the coast, on the report of the Bugis.

April 30. — Daylight saw us off a point not very
prominent. The country about Minkoka I have
described as subsiding from the lofty range to
peaceful hill and vale. The shore, running about
S. S. E., becomes low, with a few slight eminences
in the background. Beyond Point Daylight, or
Chappatanai, the coast trends away further to the
eastward, and grows somewhat more bold. Ko-
bina was in sight, and nearer to us the small bushy
and sandy island of Bassa,

As far as the point, which I have called Point
Daylight, the coast is clear of shoals at a distance
of about four miles ; but beyond it is a large reef,
several miles in extent, which must be looked care-

Dignbd by Google

Chap, XO.J PULO BASSA. — SALAYA.

fully for. A passage, in all probability, exists
between the reef and the shore. We, however,
passed outside, and then through the channel be-
tween this reef and the reef around Pulo Bassa,
where we lay-to, and Mr.M. and myself went in the
gig for sights. A heavy squall was approaching ;
and the Royalist lying-to between these reefs with
clear green waters in the front, and the black thunder
cloud in the background, formed a lively picture,
now backing, now filling, and hovering at the edge
of the reef, like a water-bird.

Pulo Bassa is a low small island, recently arisen
from the reef, and fast extending ; it has, as usual,
some beautiful green trees, and exquisitely dazzling
sand. The reef is composed of this substance
mixed with masses of grey sandstone, and encircles
the island, extending a long way out to the south
westward. We managed to get sights, not quite
such good ones as I could desire, and the squall
being over, sailed off to the vessel, which had run
to leeward on purpose to meet us.

Made sail, and saw another small patch, a long
way out to the southward of Pulo Bassa, This
concludes the survey of the bay, which I am re-
joiced at; and now we are running with a fine
breeze across to Tanjong Berak.

May 4. — Off Salaya. Extremely bad fortune ; a i
very adverse conjunction of the planets prevents
our advance. First two days dead calm off Kobina,
then foul wind and contrary currents. The straits
of Salaya are called Limbangan by the Bugis. It

Digged by Google

mk. bbooke's journal. [Cur. xil

is to be regretted that the Mansfield and Amboyna
banks, and other reputed dangers, are not examined.
I would do it, but have no provisions.

We beat through the longer passage between
Salaya and Middle Island; but it requires a stiff
breeze and smart vessel, for the current is strong.
In doing so we towed our long boat under water,
and nearly lost her. This accident delayed us
some time, and at dusk, when standing in with a
five-knot breeze for Boele Kompa, we were taken
flat aback by a land wind. About seven, it falling
calm, we anchored off the conical mountain, about
five or six miles from shore, in fifteen fathoms. A
heavy swell from the southward kept us rolling
deep all night. The Amboyna shoal I did not see,
though we passed within a mile and a half of it.

May 5. — Light contrary wind : all day getting
to Bonthian: anchored at 7 o'clock in the road-
stead.

May 8. — Sailed in the evening, after procuring
as much provisions as the place afforded and we
could purchase, but withal inadequate to carry us
to Singapore, unless we have a quick passage. I
may here mention that our distress has been con-
siderable for some time, having been in want of
grog, biscuits, and vegetables, and our salt meat
having run so low, that a few days' supply only re-
mains. Luxuries, Buch as wine, sugar, coffee, &c
have been long strangers on board.

Now we comparatively revel in good things;
coffee, arrack, sugar, and potatoes, with pigs and

Digged by Google

Cup. XII.] SAMARANG. 171

Bheep, have been found at Bonthian. I regretted 1Ma
this the more, because, had my orders been punctu- "

ally obeyed, we should not have failed in supplies
so early as we did ; and I take the blame greatly on
myself, in not seeing and knowing that stock had
been laid in for four months. However, let it pass :
the remembrance of these things soon dies from
the mind of sailors, so I will not allow their com-
plaintB at the time to dwell on my mind.

Eight days, with very light winds, took us from
Bonthian to Samarang, whither I was compelled to
go for provisions. My first application to Mr.
M'Neil for money proving successful, we were en-
abled to lay in a store of necessaries and luxuries.
Mr. M'Neil evinced all the liberality of a British
merchant, with the well-bred hospitality of a gen-
tleman. I stayed with him part of Saturday, all
Sunday, and Monday morning ; and I may well say
I parted with regret from an agreeable companion
and the comforts of civilised life.

Whilst we lay here the Lord Eldon came in, from
Sydney. Mr. M. of Southampton was a passenger
in her ; and having known the Royalist of old, quite
revived my yachting recollections, with recitals of
the feats done at Cowes, the cups run for, the
matches made, or to be made, the vessels built, or
building, sold or bought.

The roadstead of Samarang is a fair one in the
easterly monsoon, but quite exposed in the westerly.
Samarang is a cheerful and pleasing town, with
trees and a river truly Dutch. The houses are

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKE's JOURNAL. [Chap.XIL

substantial and good. The people were very civil
to me, and the government officers showed me every
attention, though they made me pay the port
charges, which I of course submitted to, but referred
to the governor at Batavia.

From Samarang to the entrance of Banca Straits
there was a very strong westerly set. Steering N.W-
by N. we only made good a N. W. by W". course.
At the entrance of Banca we encountered a squall,
accompanied with thick weather, and anchored.
The night was miserable, and I never remember a
heavier rain : it was an unceasing deluge. After
breakfast, it having cleared a little, we got under
weigh, in company with two other vessels, and have
now entered the straits, having passed First Point.

I may here close the journal of a six months'
cruise to the Bugis land ; and, reviewing the past, I
have fair occasion to be satisfied. Some cares and
troubles I have had, which arose from not carrying
a sufficient store of those luxuries, bread and grog.
Indeed, I blame myself for not having been more
particular on this score, and it has been a lesson, I
trust, for the future. I am always more willing to
take a cheerful than a melancholy view, and cares
past sit very lightly on my mind. If some of my
crew, who have been four years with me, are
sickened of the voyage, and leave at Singapore, I
have the satisfaction of having distinguished dross
from gold, and separated chaff from corn. If some
are like the seed in thorny places, others resemble
that which has fallen on good ground, and have

Digged by Google

Chap. XII.] REFLECTIONS ON THE CRUISE.

proved themselves of sterling metal; and if it
mortifies me to find men perform less than they have
promised, it is even more pleasing to distinguish
the good from the indifferent.

I have often asked myself the question whether,
in the same time, I might not have done more, and
as well. On reflection, I can answer it satisfactorily
in the negative. I might have gone over more
ground, but without gaining that intimate know-
ledge of the Bugia countries which I now have. It
was information which could be acquired but slowly,
and the jealousy of Boni caused much delay.

Perhaps it is not saying too much when I assert,
that the removal of this jealousy was due to others
as well as to myself, and that those who follow me,
though at a long interval, will benefit by my pa-
tience and moderation. However, though I am
clearly of opinion that I ought to limit my am-
bition, and to perform a moderate task well, rather
than run cursorily over a large space of ground, and
content myself with the outside of countries, yet I
plead guilty of not having distributed my time so
well as I might have done. Luwu and Minkoka
should have occupied a greater portion of it j but
it may be urged in extenuation that I should have
lost Boni, and that the former country was in a very
dangerous and unsettled state.

The early voyagers described new regions and
new people. The fault of modern voyagers is trying
to do the same when there is no field for it. They
are consequently failures, or nearly bo The ancient

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. Cc&at. XII.

mariners sketched for us. We have to colour their
pictures in a rational and sober manner, here and
there filling up what they have omitted. Our chart
of this voyage comprises from Bonthian to Amboyna
shoal, including the Bay of Boni (which, en passant,
I may say, it would take another year to finish).
We have gained the summit of Lumpu Batang never
before reached, and from its barometric admeasure-
ment can estimate the approximate height of the
neighbouring mountains of Latimojong, Tampoki,
and Sasua. The Bugis country, included between
the mountain range extending from Lumpu Batang
to Latimojong, has been laid down with more or less
accuracy. With the country of Wajo we have be-
come more or lesB acquainted, with its rivers, towns,
lakes, and boundaries ; we have lived amongst the
people and shared their amusements. Their habits,
manners, mode of life, and constitution, will be
found minutely detailed; their present political
condition, and gradual decomposition, may arrest
pity and excite sympathy. Luwu is at best but a
mountainous country, torn and distracted, and in-
habited by a poorer and worse people than the
other states. The opposite coast, remarkable for
its grandeur, is peopled by wild tribes, with whom we
communicated, and whose language was taken down.
I close for want of room, not of matter. Kan
through Rhio StraitB at night, and reached Singa-
pore on the 27th of May, exactly one year since I
first anchored here.

Digged by Google

Cur. XII.] CAPT. MDHDYB NABBATIVE. 175

Mr. Brooke remained at Singapore a few months 184 °-
to refit his vessel, and endeavour to recruit his captain
health. He sailed on his second visit to Sarawak ** und y,' B

Narrative.
early in August, 1840, and at the end of the month

anchored off that land, hereafter destined to be the

country of his adoption. His proceedings will be

found in his own Journal.

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

CHAP. XUX

LRRIYE AGAIN AT SARAWAK. — CORDIALLY RECEIVED BY HUDA

HASSIH. — DISTRACTED CONDITION OF BORNEO. NEGOTIATIONS

FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF SARAWAK. — PAXQERAN BDDRU-

DEEN. DESCRIPTION OF BORNEO: — ITS RECENT H18TORI —

STRUGGLES, PLOTS, AND MASSACRES — DEATH OF RAJAH API.
— ELEVATION OF MCDA HASSUC — INCURABLE DEFECTS OF

1840 ' I arrived once again at Sarawak, on the 29th of
December. August, 1840, and am now writing at the close of
Brake's *" e vear » tne intervening months having been
Journal, replete with events of considerable importance to
myself individually, and to the country generally.
On my first arrival I was sick, languid, and disabled,
and I never felt more reluctance on entering upon
an active life than at that moment ; but gradually
my strength improved and my spirits rose, and I
felt prepared to struggle against the dangers and
difficulties which surrounded me. The Rajah Muda
Hassan gave me a cordial reception, and the chiefs
and people appeared united in their expressions of
joy at seeing me again ; but no progress had been
made in the suppression of the rebellion ; on the
contrary, it raged with greater violence, and armed
tribes of Dyaks were assembled on several points
within thirty miles of the town.

The continued distracted condition of the coun-
try, with no probability of any termination of a
state of affairs so adverse to every object which I

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Digged by Google

chap, xm.] MUDA iiassim's offer to me.

had in view, decided me on quitting the scene and
returning to Singapore ; but on mentioning my in-
tention to the rajah he presented such a picture of
distress, and was so earnest in his prayers to me
to remain yet a little while, that, though twice on
the eve of dropping down the river, I as often
yielded to his entreaties, and finally consented to
proceed myself to the seat of operations, and en-
deavour, by my presence and counsel, to induce the
belligerents to come to terms of accommodation.
I set out about the middle of November on my last
expedition, previous to which the rajah, in order
to ensure my zealous co-operation in the cause of
the sultan, had offered to make over to me the go-
vernment of Sarawak, with its revenues and trade.
This bait was a very tempting one, but with my
private resources at the present moment, its ter-
mination would have been doubtful. It was agreed,
however, that negotiations on the subject should
be renewed when I returned in the following year.
I believe that the rajah was sincere ; and at any
rate it would have been ungenerous in me to have
come to any decision in the affirmative when I knew
his distress, but was ignorant of his real feelings.
For on any happy change in his position, contracts
and documents would have been so much waste
paper ; whereas, by appealing *° "i 3 b^ feelings,
and acting with generosity, he was more likely to
take a personal interest in my nomination, and to
procure the signature of the sultan.

All is uncertainty ; but when the proper time
vol. r. N

Digged by Google

178 MB. BROOKE'S JODBNAL. [Chat. XIII.

1840. arr ive3 the game will be worth playing. It is, in
fact, an offer which I will not actually refuse ; but
some reflection is necessary, and further insight
into Borneo politics indispensable. It was at the
seat of war, and in front of the enemy's position,
that I first became acquainted with Fangeran
Budrudeen, the Rajah Muda Hassim's brother, whose
overawing and stately demeanour seemed to have
great effect on the mixed army under his command.
To my recommendation of vigorous hostilities
Budrudeen readily agreed, and from this moment
the campaign assumed a new feature ; the indolent
chiefs showed signs of activity, guns were ad-
vanced, forts erected, and, after a series of skir-
mishes with varied success, and small loss on either
side, the enemy at length advanced beyond the
protection of their stockade into the open field. A
glance showed me the advantage their mistake had
given us ; and profiting by it, I charged quickly
across the paddi fields with my detachment of
Englishmen, twelve in number, followed by one
Illanun, named Si Tunda, and by the rest of the
natives, at a respectful distance. The manoeuvre
was completely successful : the rebels were routed,
and victory complete. Several forts were captured,
the remnant of the rebel army became dispirited ;
and in a few days a treaty was signed, and the
rebellion at an end. *

Here ends my narrative; and I now proceed to

* The history of this civil war la related at length in C&pt- Keppel's.
work, to which the reader is referred ; and in this and succeeding
chapters extracts are made from those portions of the journals -which

Digged by Google

Chap. XIII.] DESCRIPTION OF BORNEO.

ft far more interesting subject, — the description of
Borneo, with the observations I have been able
to make in Sarawak and its vicinity, and on the
manners and customs of many of the principal
tribes of Dyaks.

The island of Borneo measures at its extreme
length nine hundred miles, at its greatest breadth
seven hundred, and in circumference six thousand.
With the exception of Australia, it is the largest
island known. Occupying a central situation in
the eastern Archipelago, in the direct track of an
extensive and valuable commerce, intersected on all
sides by navigable rivers, possessing one of the
richest soils of the globe, a healthy climate, which,
though hot, is tempered by refreshing sea breezes,
and abounding in mineral treasures, — it is a country
eminently favoured with the choicest gifts of Pro-
vidence, and well adapted for the support of a
numerous and happy population.

Borneo Proper, or, more correctly, Brunei the
capital city, is built partly on an island and partly
on the main land, about fifteen miles up the river ;
to which there are many entrances, none of them
as yet accurately surveyed.

We have so many varying accounts of Brunei
that they are only to be reconciled on the supposi-
tion that the city undergoes great changes, aCCOrd-
have never before been published, and from private letters ; whilst the
connecting links have been gathered from conversations held with
Mr. Brooke himself, both at Sarawak and since his return to Eng-
land. — Ed.

m 2

Digged by Google

MR. BHOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Ch*p. XIII.

ing to the goodness or otherwise of the existing
government ; and, when we consider the fragile
nature of Malay habitations, we can readily account
for the facility of removal of the inhabitants. An
eye-witness has given the [wpulation of Brun<5 at a
hundred thousand. Leyden states it at four thou-
sand houses, or about forty thousand inhabitants ;
others, again, less. Mr. Jesse, who had the best op-
portunity for many years, does not mention the
amount of population. The eye-witness is a Mr.

, an Armenian gentleman, who lived there

three years, and ought to know something about it ;
and I can only account for his statement on the
supposition that he includes all the people of the
hills, or, as they are correctly called, Kadyans. At
the time I write this, I understand that, of the large
number of Chinese who formerly dwelt in the city,
two Chinese bred natives alone remain. The coun-
try is misgoverned, provisions scarce and dear, and
fish only to be obtained in small quantities, whilst
rice is imported from other provinces. The Kadyans
(Hill people) and Muruts (Dyalts) refusing inter-
course with each other ; in fact, it is a weak and
wicked town, starving from misrule in the midst
of plenty. The climate is represented to be cool,
pleasant, and fine, and the country agreeable and
picturesque. The Kadyans are Mohammedans, the
Muruts, Dyaks, under another name. It is almost
impossible to obtain correct information relative to
the early sovereigns of Borneo Proper; but the

Digged by Google

Cmr. XIIL] DESCRIPTION OP BORNEO. 181

kingdom is known to be of considerable antiquity, ,84 °-
and is alluded to in the annals of Malacca as an
independent and proud state. Dalrymple observes,
that in ancient times the Bornean empire extended
not only over the whole of the great island, but also
over the Fhillippines ; but I am unable to obtain
any traces of such dominion. In 1775, the trade
was considerable between Brune' and China, parti-
cularly the port of Amoy. The return cargoes
procured by the Chinese were camphor, tortoise-
shell, sandal-wood, clove bark, birds' nests, and
trepang ; and the EngUsh, at this period, dealt in
piece goods to a small extent, receiving in exchange
gold dust and black pepper. All accounts I have
as yet been enabled to examine agree in this state-
ment, that Borneo contains several magnificent
rivers, which, if ever the people should reach a
more civilised state, will become of great advantage
to commercial and agricultural pursuits.

The mineral kingdom produces gold, diamonds,
antimony ore, zinc, tin, and iron.

Of land animals there exist the elephant, rhino-
ceros, a species of leopard, the bear, horse, buffalo,
ox, hog, goats, dog, cat, deer, common fowl and
duck. The first three animals, however, are only
found in a single corner of this vast island, — its
northern peninsular extremity ; nor do they occur in
any country in the Archipelago to the eastward of
this longitude.

The horse, dog, and goat are naturalised and

Digged by Google

182 mb. brooee's jouenal. [c&ap. xhi.

law. domesticated strangers; the first being still con-
fined to the districts of Pandasan and Tampasuk.*

The orang-outang, and apes and monkeys of
nearly every tribe, abound in the interior ; and of
that particular species which in external form ap-
proaches nearest of all the animal creation to the
human figure, Borneo presents the greatest variety.
The seas afford the tortoise, pearl-oyster, and escu-
lent sea-slug. The productions of a vegetable na-
ture are rice, sago, black pepper, camphor, cin-
namon, bees' wax, and useful and ornamental
woods.

The Borneans have never formed any European
alliance, except with us; and when the Sulus,
half a century ago, treacherously drove our settlers
from Balambangan, with a loss of property amount-
ing to nearly half a million sterling, it was this
people who afforded us an asylum, and who prof-
fered us a settlement on the Brune river, and on
the island of Labuan, which we accepted for a
season ; but Europeans have now, for a number of
years, forborne to visit Borneo on account of its
violent and anarchical government. The above
short description is taken from a paper written
at Singapore in 1821, and I am not aware of any
information of a later date.

Of the manners, habits, and customs of the
various inhabitants, very little seems to be known ;
and I have seen no detailed account since the pub-

* The pirate chiefs were mounted on horseback when these Dlanuo
towns were captured and destroyed bj the squadron in August, 1846.

Digged by Google

Crit. XIII.] BECENT HISTOBY OF BOEHEO.

Hcation of Mr, Hunt's voyage along the coast in
1812. It will therefore be my object to call be-
fore me, as opportunity offers, such chiefs, or other
intelligent natives, as may visit Sarawak, and care-
fully take down the information they may give me.
Many have already contributed to the stock of
history previously obtained from the Rajah and his
followers, and I will now endeavour to put it into
some form, and commence with a brief account
of the reign of the last sultan of Borneo, and the
present one, Omar Ali-Sapudin, his son, including
the administration of Pangeran Mohammed, the
Rajah Muda Hassim's father, who was Degadon, and
of Rajah Api, and Muda Hassim. The constitution
of Borneo consists of a Sultan, with four great
officers of state, viz. Bandahara, the Degadon, the
Pamancha, and the Tumangong; the former two
being very superior to the latter two. The late
sultan, by name Jamalal Alum, was married to
Nur Alum, the eldest daughter of Mohammed
Kanzul Alum, the Degadon, by whom he had only
one son, the present Sultan Omar Ali, and thus
Rajah Api and Muda Hassim, being brothers to the
wife of the Sultan Jamalal Alum, stood in relation
of uncles to the present sultan. On the death of
Sultan Jamalal Alum, about thirty years ago, the
present sovereign was a child, and consequently
the chief power fell into the hands of his grand-
father the Degadon and his uncle Rajah Api.

Of the reign of Jamalal Alum I can only collect
that it waB short, and that the kingdom was in a state

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE'H JOURNAL. [Cbif. XIII.

of comparative quiet and prosperity. On his death,
the Pangeran, Mohammed Kanzul Alum, desired to
set aside his grandson, and raise his son, Rajah
Api, to the throne ; but this measure being strongly
opposed by his daughter, the mother of Omar-Ali,
it failed of being successful, and produced a strange
effect on the administration, which continues up to
the present day. The laws of succession, it is well
known, are neither strictly laid down nor adhered to
among Asiatics ; and though the Degadon retained
the substantial power of governing, he was unable
to set aside the claims of Omar-Ali, though, when the
latter became of the required age to have been de-
clared "Iang de per Tuan," he was powerful enough
to prevent his either assuming the title, or being
proclaimed as the sovereign. The power of both
parties being at this time nearly equal, it seems to
have been agreed that each should leave the country
quiet, — an arrangement which was carried into
effect ; and during the short period which elapsed
before the death of Pangeran Mohammed, Brune
was left without a legal or recognised government.
Omar-Ali next fell into the hands of Rajah Api,
and though he was immediately declared Sultan, it
was with diminished power. Rajah Api not having
filled up the office of Degadon, but holding in his
own person the two principal offices in the state,
his power was very greatly increased.

Thus the world was presented with the spectacle
of a government without any real head ; whilst those
who acted only held their place by the force of

Digged by Google

Catr. XIII.] BECENT HISTORY OF BOBNEO.

custom. Tlie rule of Rajah Api is represented as
having been harsh and cruel, but firm ; and, though
he is always spoken of as a despot, it is likewise
acknowledged that the power of Brune" was better
upheld under his tyrannical sway than under the im-
becile government of his successors. About twelve
years ago Rajah Api was displaced by the faction
of the sultan, headed by his sister. The particulars
of which event I will now give as I received them.
The complete dependence of the sultan on Rajah
Api was always a subject of dislike and bitterness,
and the catastrophe was probably longer in progress
than my informants mentioned. The Rajah Api,
having cause to complain of the sultan on some
trivial occasion, sought him and upbraided him
severely, and even threatened him with his drawn
kris, till the sultan implored forgiveness for his
offence and wept bitterly. From this time the
sultan's mother resolved on deposing her brother,
Rajah Api, and in the space of a month, her mea-
sures being prepared, she proceeded to carry her
design into execution ; having sounded many of
the principal men, and removed the most valuable
effects of the sultan (her son), she fled with him
to another quarter of the city, and openly declared
against Rajah Api. The population sided entirely
with her, and in the course of two days, Rajah Api
was nearly deserted in hia fort, whither he had
retired, in order to make head against the sultan.
Finding resistance useless, he escaped with his fol-
lowers to a large boat, intending to quit Borneo ;

Digged by Google

loo MB. BROOKE S JOUENAL. [Chap. XHI.

1840. jj U j. t jj e crew h av ; n g deserted, he was unable to
move. He remained, however, in the prahu, ready-
to sell his life dearly in case of attack; for he ex-
pected nothing less, being encircled by enemies.
Such a course of policy was not the intention of
the opposite faction, who contented themselves with
surrounding the prahu containing him and his fol-
lowers, so that they could get neither food nor water,
and in this wretched state they remained for several
days till nearly starved. A pangeran, a friend and
partisan of Rajah Api, then found his way to the
boat with some provisions, professing that his fear of
discovery was overruled by his attachment and de-
sire to serve him, and proposed their flight in a
small sampan *, the rajah being disguised as a wo-
man. Desperate as was the proposal, it was agreed
to as the only remaining chance ; and Rajah Api,
having covered himself with his sarong, worn like
a woman's over his head, proceeded with Muda
Hassim, and a few other men of rank as pullers,
towards the mouth of the river. The pangeran
who had decoyed them, being an agent of the sul-
tan's party, had every thing prepared, and they
were seized beyond the town by an overwhelming
number of boats. Rajah Api demanded a con-
ference with his sister, and the sultan his nephew ;
but it was refused, and orders were given the fol-
lowing day for his immediate execution. He
received the intimation with firmness (as all natives

* Small boat or canoe.

Digged by Google

Coat. XIII.] ELEVATION OF MDDA UASS1M.

do), called for some ciri, which having eaten, he
threw off his bajow (a jacket), and allowed the
fatal cord to be put round his throat ; and his last
remark aloud to all in the boat was, " Observe well
on which side I fall — if it be to the right, all is well
with Borneo, but if on the left, Borneo will be
involved in many troubles." The cord was made
fast, and Rajah Api, as life departed, reclined from his
sitting posture to the left side, and dying thus, be-
queathed the prophecy of evil and misrule, which
probably, living, he had long foreseen. A few days
after, Pangeran Muda Hassim was called upon to
attend his sister and the sultan, and walked up dis-
armed in the midst of a turbulent populace, who
brandished their krises and swords in his face, and
threatened him aloud with the fate of his brother. •
Being, however, innocent of Rajah Api's crimes,
he was pardoned and restored to favour, and took
his brother's situation, as the nominal bandahara.
Since then he has been the acting ruler under the
sultan and his mother — and all being ignorant,
and weak, and dilatory, the country may be said
to be without any government at all ; every one,
from the sultan downwards, scrambling for a re-
venue, which is evaded in all possible ways. It
appears strange that, Rajah Api being dead, and
the sultan's right undoubted and acknowledged,
and backed by power, he did not and does not

* He related the Utter part of tbo facta to me after I had heard
them from others, and only when he koew I wis acquainted with

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [cuap. xiii.

assume the title of Iang de per Tuan, according to
legal forms ; but it is certain he never has, and pro-
bably never will ; for which the only reason I can
hear is, that it would inevitably give rise to dis-
turbances, and the state of Borneo seems tumultuous
enough, without any additional stimulus. There
is no doubt that the nafcodas, or mercantile class,
greatly disturb the peace of the country, though
the result may ultimately prove beneficial, and that
as their intercourse with Singapore enlarges, they
will gain a degree of indirect power, which may
set at nought all the old established rules of
despotism.

The riches of this country were formerly alto-
gether in the hands of the sultan and other great
pangerans, and the usual mode of collecting re-
venue was, by sending boats to take the produce at
a price merely nominal, the residue being left to
the inhabitants, who were, and still are in theory,
mere slaves. As the government, however, has be-
come weak, and the mercantile class been stimulated
by profits to be gained at Singapore, the people, or
rather the local governments, have shown great re-
luctance to part with their riches, and, generally
speaking, the sultan and his pangerans have been
content with a very diminished revenue, rather
than coerce countries which they had no means of
keeping permanently in subjection. The class of
nakodas, taking advantage of this, are yearly busy
in making engagements for the following season
for the Singapore market ; and when the sultan's

Digged by Google

Chap. XIII.] DEFECTS OF MALAY GOVERNMENTS.

demands arrive, he is put off with excuses of the
exhausted state of the country, and the scarcity of "
produce, which produce, in the meantime, has
been bought up by the nakodas. The right of
sailing a prahu was formerly entirely in the hands
of the Bultan, and he gave the permission to a
limited number, on their making ample payment
for the same: now, however, the nakodas have
broken through this right, and obtain the per-
mission from the local authorities, who share with
them in the profits of the speculation, as indeed do
many other persons in the country. Thus, what
between the sultan and pangerans of Borneo on
the one hand, and the nakodas and local au-
thorities on the other, there is a scramble for the
produce of the soil, — the one demanding, the other
withholding, and the latter are usually successful,
exactly according to their distance from the ca-
pital. I never could learn that more than 200 or
300 reals went to Borneo from either Sadong,
Lingu, or Sakarran, or Sereki; and rarely so much.
Sarawak has paid nothing for years past ; Kaluka
affords a little sago ; Muka, Bintulu, and Oya are
more heavily taxed, being nearer ; and the pro-
vinces immediately about the capital bear the chief
brunt of the sultan's expenses. In fact, the prince
and his chiefs rob all classes of Malays to the ut-
most of their power ; the Malays rob the Dyaks,
and the Dyaks hide their goods as much as they
dare consistent with the safety of their wives and
children. The usual way is, for the sultan to

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [Chip. XIII.

give, at a fixed price, some nakoda or pangeran an
order on the country for a certain quantity of pro-
duce. The demand is made on the arrival of the
parties, evaded, discussed ; intrigue and bullying on
both sides follow, and then the matter is usually com-
promised for half-a-quarter of the required amount ;
otherwise, if the party to whom the order is ad-
dressed be strong, he sends away the bearer, and
probably hears no more of it. Such is the miser-
able state of things ; such is the wretched condition
of a country where the choicest productions,
mineral and vegetable, abound ; so miserable, in-
deed, that I believe, spite of all my former pre-
possessions in favour of a Malay state, that any
change must be for the better, and I do not believe
that any change would be resisted by the great
mass of tbe people.

Digged by Google

Chap. XIV.] DESCRIPTION OF SARAWAK.

DESCRIPTION OF SAttAWAK. — IT8 VARIOUS RIVERS. SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS DANGER OF THE INHABITANTS. INROADS OF

PIRATES. MR. BROOKE VISITS THE INTERIOR TRIBES.— THEIR

IDEAS OF RELIGION. — PRACTICE OF TAKING HEADS. — PARTIAL
USE Or THE SUMFIT AN. — CEREMONIES OF MARRIAGE. NO-
TIONS OP A FUTURE STATE. — FUNERAL RITES. STRENGTH

OF THE VARIOUS TRIBES. — VOCABULARIES.

December. — Let me now give some description of
the territory of Sarawak : it extends from Tanjong \
Datu to the entrance of the Samarahan river, a
distance along the coast of about sixty miles in an
E. S. E. direction, with an average breadth of fifty
miles. It is bounded to the westward by the Sambas
territory, to the southward by a range of mountains
which separates it from the Pontianak rivers, and to
the eastward by the Borneo territory of Sadong.
Within this space there are several streams and
islands, which it is needless here to describe at
length, as the account of the river of Sarawak will
answer alike for the rest. There are two navigable
entrances to this stream, and numerous smaller
branches for boats, both to the westward and east-
ward. The two principal entrances unite at about
twelve miles from the sea, and the river flows for
twenty miles into the interior, in a southerly and
westerly direction, when it again forms two branches
— one running to the right, the other to the left,

Digged by Google

102 MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XIV.

1810. hand, as far as the mountain range. Besides these
facilities for water communication, there exist
three branches from the easternmost entrance
called Moratabas, one of which joins the Saraara-
han, and the two others flow from different points
of the mountain range already mentioned.

The northern point, visible from the mouth of
the Moratabas, is a bluff, called Tanjong Po, some-
what resembling Tanjong Datu. The entrance
of the Moratabas is easily distinguished from the
offing, on the starboard hand going in, there being
an isolated hill, or rather two or three hills, joined.
These stand alone, and are the only high land on
the water's edge in the bay. To the westward of
this high ground is a bight quite shallow, and from
the point at the river's mouth to Point Bluff there
stretches a sand, dry in many places at low water.
To the eastward is another extensive sandy flat,
the exact limits of which I am unacquainted with,
but it seems to choke the entire bay. Between
these two the channel out of the Moratabas runs,
at first for some distance with the river's mouth
open, and then gradually inclining towards Tan-
jong Po. The channel is wide and deep, about
three quarters of a mile across, and with three and
a half and four fathom at low-water spring tides :
the bottom is mud, and on either hand gradually
hardens to sand, and the depth decreases regularly
on both sides : so that a vessel may with safety
trust to her lead on going out ; but great caution
should nevertheless be used.

Digged by Google

Chip. XIV.] RIVERS OF SARAWAK.

The river Samarahan is shallow at its entrance,
and is situated in the bight of the bay to the south-
ward and eastward of the Moratabaa. Vessels at
any time wishing to go into it, must enter by the
Moratabas, and through the Riam as formerly de-
scribed. From the Samarahan the land runs out
about E. and N. and £. N. E. to a low point.
From first low point the land runs with a slight
indentation to second low point, and then gradually
trends away to the southward and eastward to the
mouth of the noble river of Sadong. Indeed, the
second low point may almost be considered the
starboard point of the river, and the opposite
one runs out a long way towards Pulo Burong
in a north-easterly direction. The width of this
mouth is from eight to ten miles. At some
distance further in there is a round point on the
Btarboard hand, where the river narrows to about
two miles, and preserves a breadth of from two to
one mile, as far as the small stream called the
Sangi, some way up which is situated the town
of the same name, inhabited by Malays, and
the residence of their governor, Sheriff Sahib.
The Sadong is a noble stream, with a rush-
ing tide of seven or eight knots an hour. The
velocity of the current, and the obstruction from
fishing stakes, render the navigation intricate in
the dark, and at all times unpleasant for a vessel.
The flood runs stronger than the ebb, and doubtless
when it is checked by freshes, the bore is occa-
sionally violent enough to endanger native boats,
vol. i. o

Digged by Google

194 MR. BBOOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Cka*. XIV.

1M0 - The banks of the Sadong are low and woody, par-
tially cleared, and the bottom is clayey mud. The
natives report it to be sufficiently deep at the en-
trance for vessels to come in, but I had no oppor-
tunity of verifying their statement. The sand-
flats continue four or five miles off the shore, from
the Moratabas to Tanjong Balaban, or larboard en-
trance going into the Sadong. A passage may
exist, however, through this sand, kept clear by
the rush of the tide.

The Sangi is an inconsiderable stream, with a
rise and fall of tide, from eighteen to twenty feet.
It is cleared on both sides, and inhabited, as far
as the town, by a straggling population.

The soil and productions of this country are of
the richest description ; and it is not too much
to say, that within the same given space there
are not to be found equal mineral and vegetable
riches in any land in the world. The produc-
tions which are grown, or capable of being grown,
are rice, canes, sago, rattans, and forest timber for
ship-building, nutmegs, coffee, pepper, and indeed
all the more valuable vegetable productions of the
tropics. The mineral resources are diamonds, gold,
tin, iron, antimony, and probably lead or copper.
It must, in reading this list, be remembered, that
the country is as yet unexplored by a scientific
person, and that the inquiries of a geologist and
a mineralogist would throw further light on the
ores of the mountains, and the spots where they
are to be found in the greatest plenty. The
headlands are bold, with rocks and moderately

gnbcd by Google

Cur. XIV.] DANGER OF THE INHABITANTS.

195

elevated cliffs beetling over the water, white sandy m ^°'
beaches fringed with trees intervening. The rocks
have a weather-beaten appearance, and the vegeta-
tion near them shows the effect of the high winds
in the north-east monsoon. To the westward of
Tanjong Po, reefs extend a mile and a half, and
beyond these, there are no visible dangers. The
rivers of Sirai, Tabo, and Bantal, near this, flow
into the Bea, all being connected with each other,
and with the main stream of Sarawak. The en-
trance of these streams is very shallow, and the
tide irregular. The scenery is most striking, and
the bold outline of Santobong Mountain beautiful
in its picturesque irregularity. No place can well
surpass this for exercise and for manly enjoyments.
Wild hogs and deer abound ; fish are plentiful
The gigantic ape, and the large lizard or biawak,
whose length is about five feet, and which is, in fact,
the land crocodile, occasionally cross our path, both
being harmless, and anxious to escape into the
jungle. Turtle are also abundant ; and if the poor
Dyaks who dwell on the coast were only suf-
ficiently numerous to protect themselves, or lived
under a government strong enough to afford
them protection, a revenue might be collected.
Now they are in constant peril of their lives, not
only from the roving tribes of their own nation,
and from the treacherous Malays, but also from
those terrible pirates, the Illanuns and Balanini,
Day after day, month after month, it is the same
story ; a fife of watchfulness, — of flight and fight.

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [cm*, xrv.

In the course of every year many lose their lives,
and more their liberty. Oh that my ability to
serve these benighted people were equal to my in-
clination to do so ! My anxiety and my desires to
ameliorate their condition are boundless; and
though the love of home may beckon me thither-
ward, yet I must never dream of returning to my
native land, until, at least, some measure of good
has been accomplished. Sarawak has been chosen
as the seat of my labours, and I would make it a
stepping stone across the island of Borneo to Koti,
or from west to east. My means, it is true, are
limited indeed, but with prudence, my expenses
will not exceed my income ; and in these countries,
where vegetation is so prolific, and nature so boun-
tiful, if once security is firmly established, food of
every kind will soon exceed the ordinary demand,
and may then be obtained at a moderate price. In
this view I am ready to lay out a certain amount
of capital in labour and improvement, for the pur-
pose of clearing the jungle and rendering commu-
nication easier. I must always bear in mind, that
I am not acting for myself alone, and that my loss
or gain is but a trifling consideration compared
with my character for justice, and the impression
of European conduct, generally, on the native
mind. Injustice and tyranny now stalk through-
out the land. The Dyaks are slaughtered without
mercy, and the coast may be said to be almost
blockaded by the fleets of Sulu Pirates.

I have had opportunities of seeing and convers-
ing with the principal men of several distinct tribes :

i by Google

Chap. XIV.] VISITS THE INTERIOB THIBES. 197

amongst them, I may mention the Orong Kaya l84 °-
Pamanka (Malay title), of the Sibuyows, the head
of the tribe in the Sadong river, a branch of which
is at Lundu. In a long conversation just held with
him, he verified my former account, as taken from
the Sibuyows of Lundu, with the exception of
Biadum. The Supreme Spirit of his tribe, he
stated, wasBatura, — no priests, — no religion, &c.
— bury their dead. Head hunting among them
is in disuse; they never seek heads, but only take
those of their enemies they have slain in battle.
Previous to marriage it was by no means necessary,
and he disapproved of the custom. It is to be re-
membered, however, that the Orong Kaya Pa-
manka is, for a Dyak, highly civilised ; but sup-
posing him to be the most civilised man of the
most civilised tribe, it is gratifying to see them
abandoning their evil customs. It is quite refresh-
ing to meet with so kind a reception ; for all classes
seem to vie who shall pay us most attention, and
that really in a friendly way. Old acquaintances
crowd upon us, eager to be remembered, and of
course we remember them all.

Some men of three different tribes have visited
me since I last wrote, viz., the Bukar, Brang, and
Sabungo. I examined them separately on their
manners, habits, and language ; and it will be
readily seen that their dialect bears a close resem-
blance, and is radically identical with the Malay.
The Brang and the Sabungo spoke little or no
Malay, and through the medium of a bad inter-

Dignbd by Google

mb. erooke's journal. [Cba*. xiv.

preter, it was difficult to obtain from them the
same clear account as from the native of Bukar.
I have mentioned Bukar as a mountain, situated
above where we reached the Samarahan ; it
stands on the left bank, and one day's journey from
the river, which may be estimated at fifteen or
twenty miles. On the right bank of the Sa-
marahan, one day's journey from Bukar, is the tribe
of Sirin ; half a day's journey from Sirin stands the
high mountain of Brang, on the top of which are
the tribe of the same name ; and halfaday's journey
again from Brang are the mountain and tribe of
Sabungo. Brang and Sabungo lying, as far as I
can understand, to the southward and westward
of Bukar. These are inland tribes, and distin-
guished amongst themselves from those inhabiting
the sea coast. Their habits are by no means
aquatic : they are unskilful in the management
of canoes, and use them only on special occasions ;
yet this difference does not much affect their
general habits and appearance, which greatly re-
semble those of the Dyaks on the coast. They
are not tattooed, and though the sumpitan is
occasionally used, it is by no means a national
weapon of offence. They have little regard for
ornaments : a slight piece of bark cloth is girt
round the loins, and on the arms are a few rings of
plaited bamboo ; the hair of moderate length, and a
piece of the same cloth is negligently tied over the
head. Their chief weapons are the spear and the
sword. They inhabit large houses like the Sibu-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. HV,] THEIR IDEAS OF RELIGION. *■'•

yows, and the three tribea of Bukar, Brang, and 184Q -
Sabungo, all freely allowed that they possessed
heads. They marry but one wife, and the marriage
ceremony is performed by swinging fowls round
their heads seven times, and feasting and getting
drunk.

I here detail the principal questions put to Sa-
gama, a Bukar Dyak chief, a man of intelligence,
who spoke Malay with moderate fluency.

" Did he know any thing of God?" (Allah talla.)

" No. "

*' Did his tribe believe that any one lived in the
clouds ?"

" Yes; Tupa lived there."

" Who sent thunder, lightning, and rain ?"

" Tupa."

" Do they ever pray to Tupa, or offer sa-
crifice ?"

"No."

"When a man dies what do they do with his
body ?"

" They burn it."

" Where do the dead go to after they are
buried ?"

"ToSabyan."

" Where is Sabyan ?"

" Under the earth."

" Where is hii father gone ?"

" To Sabyan, — all the Dyak men and women
who are dead are under the ground in Sabyan."

" How long will they stay at Sabyan ?"

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's joubhal. [cb*p. xjv.

" Do'nt know."

" When he dies, will he meet his father ?"

" Yes ; and his mother and all the people."

" Are they happy in Sahyan ?"

" Yes ; very happy."

" If a man was wicked, would he go to Sabyan ?"

" Yes; but to another place, and he would not be
happy."

On being questioned about taking heads, he said,
" they always take the heads of their enemies,
never of their friends."

"If they met strangers in the jungle, would they
take their heads ?"

" Yes, if they were strange Dyaks, but not the
heads of Malays or white men."

" Could they marry without first having a
head?"

" They could ; but if they had a head it was con-
sidered honourable, and any young woman would
then marry them."

" How many heads had they ?"

" A good many old ones, but only three new
ones."

" Whose heads were the new ones ?"

" Brang heads."

(I was aware that the Brangs had recently been
defeated.) Of their laws I could make nothing.
If a man stole, he had to return the goods and pay
a fine.

" In case of murder in their own tribe what did
they do V

Digged by Google

Chap. XIV.] MABHIAGE FUNEHAL RITES.'

" Such things never happened! I"

The tribe consists of about 150 fighting men,
and they live on the mountains of Bukar. Sino, a
Dyak of Brang, spoke, as I have before said, very
little Malay. They lived in the high mountain of
Brang. Their fighting men amounted to sixty or
seventy, before their defeat. They have only one
wife ; they need not have a head before marriage,
nor do they take any heads, save of their enemies.
When marrying they take a fowl, swing it over
their heads, then kill and eat it, but there is no
feast. Before marriage they make presents to the
bride's father. After a man is dead they burn his
body. He did not know whether they lived or not
after death. He mentioned Tupa, but said he
knew nothing about him.

The difficulty of making the Brang and the
Sabungo quite understand me, prevented my arriv-
ing at any knowledge of their ideas respecting a
Supreme Being.

The Sabungo, by name Angass, stated, that they
lived at the foot of a mountain called Kuyoh, and
the tribe consisted of fifty fighting men. In every
other particular they resembled the Brangs.

From the Bukar fat another time) I received a
verification of the fact of their burning their dead,
and he likewise stated, that they knew about
Tupa, and believed, like the Bukars, that their
dead went to Sabyan.

Segama, the Bukar, measured five feet five inches
and a half; was fair, not well made, but intelligent.

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKE's JOURNAL. [Cup. XIV.

Sino, the Brang, measured five feet four inches
and a half; well, but slightly made, and had a very
sensible countenance. Angass, the Sabungo, mea-
sured four feet ten inches, and was stout and
athletic for a Dyak.

They gave their accounts cheerfully, and often
forcibly, seeming pleased at being called on to do
so. From their locality, they can have little or no
communication with the MalayB, They disliked
our brandy and wine, which the Dyaks of the coast
drank greedily; and from their appearance and
habits seemed to be a very unsophisticated people,
and may be reckoned as pure Dyaks. I believe
the accounts of their ferocity and blood-thirstiness
to be greatly exaggerated; and certainly, all my
inquiries heretofore go to prove them a wild, ig-
norant, but by no means a fierce race ; and in the
scanty and unsatisfactory accounts we have of them
from other sources, it is likely that the marvellous
and the horrible form the leading features. Yet I
would not be understood as having arrived at any
conclusion myself, for the Dyaks differ greatly ac-
cording to tribe and situation, and the Kayans, pro-
bably, will be found to have distinctive features.
The Dyak tribes I have conversed with mark this
distinction strongly themselves. They speak well
of the Kayans, but bade me beware of the Dyaks
who wear small ear-rings, for they assert them to
be fierce and treacherous. The fiercest and most
treacherous are the powerful tribes of Sarebas.

Examined three more tribes of Dyaks, viz. the

Digged by Google

Chap. XIV.] STRENGTH OF VABIOUS TRIBES.

Sintah, the Gurgo, and the Sinai-. Those of Sintah
and Gurgo are situated not above half a day's
journey from Sabungo, and the two are intimately
connected. The name of the Sintah chief was
Cimboug, a man of intelligence. The accounts of
their habits and manners differed but little from
what I had previously collected, but I give it in
detail, in order to accumulate a mass of evidence
showing the probability of all the untattoed Dyaks
being one people.

The strength of the tribe of Sintah was formerly
about 1000 fighting men, and they had upwards of
a thousand skulls. They dwell on the top of a
mountain : the heads were clearly stated to be the
heads of enemies : they would take no others. If
a white man, China-man, or Malay were to come
into their country, tbey would not kill him for his
head, but if they quarrelled and fought, and he was
killed, they would then secure the prize for the
ladies! They would not either kill a stranger
Dyak who came as a friend amongst them. It was
absolutely necessary to be the possessor of one head
previous to marriage. If a man wanted to get
married and could not procure an enemy's head, he
accompanied a party of perhaps fifty or one hundred
men a long way into the interior, and then attacked
any body for the sake of the head.

The chief, Cimboug, was particularly examined
on this point, and insisted it was only on such an
occasion they made these excursions, and then
always a long way from home! They present

Digged by Google

MB. Brooke's JOURNAL. [Cur. XIV.

clothes, rice, &c. to the parents of the bride, and
on the occasion of the marriage give a feast to the
tribe, which lasts for four days and nights. The
marriage ceremony is as follows : — They smear a
paste made of saffron mixed with a little gold dust,
and fowls' blood, over the chest, forehead, and
hands. The man and woman each take a fowl,
and pass it seven times across the chest, then kill it,
and a small string of beads being attached to the
right wrist of either party, the ceremony is com-
plete. After this the new-married pair remain in
absolute seclusion for the space of seven days.
Their dead are buried with various articles in the
grave, such as spears, cloths, rice, ciri, betel, &c,
and the head which the party first gained during
his lifetime. The Spirit in the clouds was Tupa,
but the dead go to Sabyan, a good place under the
earth ; his father he stated to be gone to Sabyan.
The evidence was exactly the same as the other
tribes ; they never prayed or sacrificed, and beyond
the name of Tupa they had no idea. They be-
stowed on him no attributes of power or greatness,
of mercy or wrath : they seek not to deprecate his
anger, or gain his approval. The name is the name
of their God, but it is the first and faintest trace
of the belief of a rude mind in a Supreme Being.

The habits and customs of Gurgo are the same as
those of Sintah : the tribes are so intimately con-
nected as to intermarry. Their warriors are about
1500 in number: they live on a mountain about a
day's journey from the tribe of Sintah.

Digged by Google

Chap, XIV.] MARRIAGK BITES.

Sinar is a distant tribe in the interior, three days'
journey beyond the Sarawak river. They likewise
inhabit a mountain, and the tribe consists of
700 fighting men.

It is not necessary, amongst them, to possess a
bead before marriage, as making presents to the
parents of the bride is suificient. Their marriage
ceremony is as follows: — They have four cups in
which are hogs' blood, fowls' blood, rice, and gold
dust, each in a separate cup. Four cups are
carried by the bride, four by the bridegroom in a
tray on their heads, and when they retire to rest are
placed over their couch. They do not assemble the
tribe, nor do they feast, the immediate relatives
of the parties only being present. The account
of Sabyan and Tupa was the same as already
stated : their dead are burned with a great quantity
of wood and cloth, rice, &c, and one head burnt
with them: after death the deceased went to
Sabyan. The Sinar chief was an elderly man;
scarcely spoke a word of Malay, but so ready to
give the account of their customs, that the instant
the interpreter made known to hira what we wanted,
he proceeded with a long detail, explaining by
action the way they performed the ceremony of
marriage, &c. The vocabulary of their respective
languages was given with great clearness ; and I
made it a rule to read to one tribe what I had col-
lected from another, and most of the words they
understood freely. From the numbers I have
seen I may safely pronounce that they are by no

Digged by Google

206 ME. BROOKE'S JOUBNAL. ZCkat. XIV.

1840. means a fine race. Their stature is short, their
° persons generally Blight, though well formed ; their

muscles little developed, and bearing all the marks
of savage life by exercise, but not labour: the
countenance is intelligent, the eye good ; but their
colour is scarcely bo light as that of the Malay : the
general characteristic of the countenance the same.
In their demeanour they are unceremonious, but
respectful, and somewhat reserved, without the
forwardness of the Malays. The objects of wonder
to be seen in the vessel, particularly the mirrors,
attracted their attention ; but they never gave way
to the bursts of astonishment and laughter which
the lower Malays indulge in, nor do they handle
every thing that comes in their way in the same
manner. I conceive on the whole, indeed, that
they are a race easily to be modelled and improved,
and nothing would tend so quickly to this, as the
absence of all prejudice — of religion, food, or caste.
It is evident, they look upon the Malays as a
superior race.

Four more Dyak tribes all confirm the previous
statements: —

1st. Sampro in the interior of Sarawak. Live
in a mountain, the tribe consisting of 400 warriors.

2d. Bubanok, who inhabit the mountains of
Kurupit, situated like the former. Tribe of fifty
warriors : heads plenty. Go once or twice in a year
against their enemies further in the interior to seek
for heads. If they attack the enemy's village they
may procure ten heads ; but if with a small party,

Digged by Google

Oku. XIV.] BYAK TRIBES. 20 i

snatching from the farms perhaps one, two, or 184 °-
three. "

Bury the dead: after death go to Sabyan, &c.

3d. Stang-Pukarong : inhabit the mountain
Surundok : tribe of thirty warriors, situated like the
former. Other particulars the same.

4th. Sabutan. Inhabit the mountain Darot, about
one day's journey from Brang. Tribe of twenty
warriors, possessing ten heads, &c.

The whole of these tribes may be said to inhabit
the mountains, whence in all probability flow the
numerous rivers which run to the sea between
Tanjong Santobong and the Sadong. It would be
interesting to reach this region, and I hope shortly
to accomplish it, as I start for an excursion up the
Sadong river the day after to-morrow.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE S JOURNAL.

MUD*. HASSLM. — THE WILD l'ATAKAN. — CANNIBALISM OF THE
BATTA3. DO MEN REALLY EAT ONE ANOTHER ? DYAK CE-
REMONIES ON THE CONCLUSION OF PEACE. — FRUIT TREES. —
IDEAS OF PROPERTY. — GOVERNMENT OF THE DYAKS. — CRIMES
AND PUNISHMENTS. — FIGURATIVE EXPRESSIONS.— DYAK FOND-
NESS FOR DRINKING. — ASCENT OF THE SADONQ BIVEB. HOSPI-
TALITY OF SHERIFF SAHIB. — THE BORE. — FIRE FLIES. — THE

PODADA TREE. VACILLATION OF THE NATIVES. ENTER A

FOREST LAKE. SECLUDED DYAK SETTLEMENT. CHASE OF THE

ORANO OUTANG. — DEATH OF THE GAME. BCBY1NG-PLACE

OF THE DYAKS. — DYAK HOSPITALITY. — CONDITION OF THE
NATIVES. — FORTIFIED DWELLINGS. — AN ENLIGHTENED DYAK.

— GOLD ORNAMENTS. — OMENS AND SUPERSTITIOUS RITES.

MOUNTAIN RANGE. — ITS INHABITANTS. — LAND AND SEA
DYAKS. STRANGE CUSTOMS. — DYAK PIRATES. COSTUME.

1640. Muda IIasslm promises fair and steady, and as soon
" as a blow is struck at the rebels, he will himself

accompany me to Borneo, touching by the way at
all the principal rivers. In the hope he may do so,
I am induced to wait, and employ myself during
the interim with one or two excursions. The
chief object now to be gained, is an acquaintance
with the Kayans,the tattooed warriors of theRejang,
Bintulu, and other rivers. There can be little
doubt, from their language, that the untattooed
Dyaks are all of one race, closely resembling each
other in habits, manners, customs, and language,
and of the same stock as the Polynesians, since
traces of the original tongue run through their
various dialects.

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] CANNIBALISM.

209

I inquired much of the Malays, whether any tribe 1M0>
of Dyaks, thereby meaning all the wild people,
were suspected of cannibalism* and they all agreed
that no such stigma was affixed to any, save the
very savages, called Patakan, who, according to
their account, are the wildest of the wild; they
wander in search of food from place to place, have
no houses or fixed habitations, and sleep in trees.

The custom of the Battas *, of legally sentencing a
man, for particular crimes, to be tied up and eaten
before and by the assembled multitude, is indeed
a barbarous mode of executing justice, which, I
understand, is still practised by that Sumatran
tribe; but to prove a race anthropophagi of the
worst sort, who eat their fellows for the sake of
eating, is far different from this, and I do not think
it has been yet done, though often asserted. Let
me add, likewise, that out of the hundreds of un-
civilised tribes, in all parts, and through all times,
asserted to be anthropophagi, the charge has been
proved groundless, and as the world has become
enlightened, these accusations have gradually been
confined within a very limited space, and brought
forward with great caution. This argument alone
speaks volumes ; for, if out of the endless assertions
of the fact, none have been proved, and almost all
disproved, may we not doubt of the recent accounts

* I visited the country adjoining the Battas in Sumatra, in March,
1846, and ascertained that the people at* their parents alive when the;
were old. — Editor.

VOL. I. r

Digged by Google

210 mb. brooke's joubnal. [chap. xv.

]84 °- till we have the testimony of an enlightened eye-
witness — a man of education, unlikely to be led
away by the vague horrors and dreamy accounts of
credulous natives ? I must add a few more remarks
on Dyak customs, as I obtain them from the Dyaks
themselves. When peace is made between them,
one tribe visits the other, in order to feast together j
and on these occasions, whatever the number of
visitors may be, they are at liberty to use the
fruits of their hosts without hinderance. At their
pleasure they strip the cocoa-nuts off the trees, and
devour, and carry away as much as they can,
without offence. Of course the hosts in turn be-
come visitors, and pay in the same coin. All the
Dyaks are remarkably tenacious of their fruit-
trees; but on the occasion of the feast, beside
taking the fruit, the visitors fell one tree, as a
symbol of good understanding: of course it is only
once that such liberties are taken or allowed; at
other times it would be an affront sufficient to
occasion a war.

The fruit trees about the Kampong, and as far
as the jungle round, are private property, and all
other trees which are in any way useful, such as
the bamboo, various kinds for making bark-cloth,
the bitter kony, and many others. Land, likewise,
is individual property, and descends from father to
■ son ; so, likewise, is the fishing of particular rivers,
and indeed most other things. So tenacious are
they of this kind of property, that amongst thcm-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. XV.] FIGURATIVE EXPRESSIONS. 21

selves the young shoots of bamboo (which are 18 *°-
edible) cannot be cut by any one but the proprietor,
without incurring a fine.

The government of the DyakB, as I have formerly
observed when speaking of the Lundus, seems to be
administered more by general consent than from any
authority lodged in the chief. His power, indeed, is
one of persuasion, and depends upon his personal
ability, nor can he in any way coerce his people
to obedience. Amongst the hill Dyaks the laws
are based on the same principle ; punishment is
usually by fine, imposed by a council of old men.
In cases of murder, retort in kind is allowed and
justified; but, unlike the law of the Arabs, the
retaliation must be confined to the individual mur-
derer. If one man kills another, a brother or
friend of the deceased kills him in return, and the
business ends; but they can likewise settle the
matter by paying a fine, provided both parties give
their consent. In all other cases fines prevail ; and,
as far as I have yet heard, no severer punishment
is ever inflicted for crime.

One evening I was speaking to the chief of the
Sintah tribe, and, in their own phraseology, com-
pared a government to a fruit-tree, whereon many
birds perched to eat. He immediately caught my
simile, and continued it thus: " That is true, but
under Pangeran Makota's government, the big birds
pecked the little ones, and drove them away, and
would not allow them to have food. "We were

Digged by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [Cum. xv.

little birds, and were pecked very hard. I will
relate to you," he said, " a saying (pantun), — ' A
plantain in the mouth, and a thorn in the back.'
What is the pleasure of eating a plantain, if you
get a thorn behind? So it was with pangeran
Makota : he gave us a little, which was the plan-
tain, and asked a great deal, which was the thorn.
I want to eat no such plantains."

The old man was very talkative, having drunk
two glasses of gin and water, and amused me
greatly. He insisted on my accepting his travelling
basket, when I said to him, " You are tipsy to-
night, and will be sorry in the morning, that you
have given away your basket." " Take it," he
replied; "I shan't be sorry — you are our friend.
I am not tipsy — what makes me tipsy, is bullets
and spears, and being hunted by enemies ; in this
way I have been tipsy for five years, and it is only
since you have come, that we are at peace. Tuak
wont make me tipsy — ■ bullets and spears make me
tipsy — and if I get tipsy on tuak, it is because I
like it ; and what does it signify if I do get tipsy ?"
I might note more of such anecdotes, as charac-
teristic of their shrewd sense and simple character.
They are evidently fond of drinking, and indulge
periodically in drunken bouts. .

Shortly after the above information was obtained,
I started on an expedition up the Sadong river. I
had fitted up my own long boat, the " Skimalong,"
with some additional comforts, having an excellent

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] THE BORE.

awning under the mats, which kept us dry in the
violent rains of the season.

Our party consisted of Mr. Williamson, Mr.
Williams, Mr. M'Kenzie, the mate of the boat and
three seamen. Two pangerans in a large native
boat accompanied us as an escort. On the second
evening we disembarked at Sangi, and took up our
lodging at the house of the chief, and proceeded
the next day to the head-quarters of Sheriff Sahib,
one of the most renowned of the river chiefs. I
presented him with a double-barrelled gun, which
gratified him much, and on my expressing a desire
to ascend the river in order to see and shoot the
orang-outang in its native woods, he freely gave
me permission.

I found this Sangi a pleasant place, provisions
plentiful and cheap, quarters comfortable, the hos-
pitality of the host unbounded, and our dinner ex-
cellent ; but time was pressing, so after a stay of a
few days, we recommenced our ascent of the Sa-
dong, and brought up at the pretty little village of
Simunjang. The Datu received us warmly, fur-
nished us with a capital house and the best of
good cheer, and the whole party slept comfortably ;
however, we found in the morning, that our boats
had been nearly swamped by the "bore," which
came in strong in the middle of the night. There
is, as usually, a long tree which reaches to low-
water mark, and serves as a landing-place to all
villages ; when the wave came in suddenly sweep*

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE S JOUKNAL. [Chap. XV.

ing the bank, the bulge of our boat took this tree,
and in an instant it was half full of water.

About two p. M. we saw this bore again rush-
ing in with equal violence : it swept in a ra-
pidly advancing wave to the high-water mark,
about twelve feet, and passed on in its irresistible
course without doing any mischief, as we had our
boat in the centre of the river. Many native ca-
noes went a short way down to meet it, and when
its sullen voice was heard they raised loud shouts,
and the next instant were whirled along with in-
credible velocity on the summit of the curling
wave. It reminded me of the account of the
Madras Katamarans in their surf.

Late in the afternoon we reached the last Dyak
village, and at night moored our boats beyond the
limits of population. Near our anchorage was a
Podada tree (of the Malays), covered with fire-
flies, flashing and glancing until the stronger light
of the moon extinguished their tiny radiance.
This Podada is the ornament of most of the river
banks. The foliage is of a light green colour, and
remarkably elegant. To behold these trees illu-
minated by the fire-flies, in countless numbers, is
a most enchanting sight, and resembles a fire-work,
by the constant motion of the light. On the Sa-
marahan I have seen each side of the river lit by
a blaze of these beautiful little insects.

In spite of the remonstrances and entreaties of
the collective pangerans, we proceeded up the

Digged by Google

Chjip. XV.] VACILLATION OF NATIVES.

river. They said, and they swore, that we could
not aacend at all, — that the stream was very strong,
and if we got up, the least it would take was five
days, — the river covered with trees and drifts of
timber, rendered it dangerous, — there was imminent
peril; and if anything happened to me, what would
become of them — their lives would be the forfeit !
All this being vain, for I knew their ways, they ac-
companied me for a short distance, when the pan-
geran Kaka stopped, and contented himself with
sending on his two inferiors in a small boat. They
had been so convinced they could turn me back,
that they neglected to bring any rice in their prahu,
though manned with twenty hands. I mention this
to show to what great vexation a traveller is ex-
posed although his followers may be obliged, by
the orders of their rajah, to accompany him. But
woe betide the poor wayfarer who fancies he can
penetrate into the country without the assistance
of the chiefs ! The chances are, the natives would
not go with him at all; but if they did, it would
only be to desert him on the first difficulty. With
me it was different, for they are bound to follow
wherever I obstinately lead ; and on my part, I
rival their politeness, rarely allow my temper to
become ruffled, and after these amicable contests
for advance or retreat, always behave very civilly,
and supply as far as I can the deficiencies produced
by their negligence and thoughtlessness. A fowl,
or an occasional cigar to the pangerans, a little rice

lignbcd by Google

216 mr. brooke's journal. [Ouf. xv.

1840. or a f ew handfuls of biscuit, usually restore good
temper ; for though they be generally lazy and
lying, they are always civil. After one pangeran
remained behind we continued our course, and the
channel soon contracted to eighteen feet, and even
less, between rows of the rasow etam of the Malays,
which grew out from either side of the rapid and
clear stream.

After a hard pull, we stopped at nine o'clock to
breakfast, and enjoyed all the luxury of a delicious
bath in limpid water. At ten we took again to our
paddles, and during the whole day were strug-
gling against the difficulties of the ascent. Every
instant the paddles had to be taken in, the channel
being not broader than the boat, and too deep to
pole up ; in many placvs it was choked up with
drift wood, collections of which, overgrown with
grass, every here and there formed floating islands,
and entirely obstructed the passage. The labour of
forcing our way was difficult and tedious, and our
large boat often stuck beyond our power of extrac-
tion, and had to be dragged forward by the four
small canoes in company ; with all this, however,
we made good way ; for these canoes, getting a-head
wherever the passage allowed, towed us along at
a rapid pace. The stream, likewise, as we as-
cended the river, instead of increasing in force as I
expected, slackened , and finally became almost
dead. This is occasioned, I presume, by our hav-
ing reached the level of the lake, where it expands

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] ENTER A FOREST LAKE.

itself amid the forest, and creeps forward in its
bed till it finds an exit into the lower ground.
Our entire course lay along the already mentioned
narrow and crooked channel, through the black
rasow, and on either hand the boundless forest,
which, if cleared, would at this season present the
aspect of a vast lake. The consequence of this
inundation, which occurs annually, is, that the
trees are straggling and unhealthy, and though
Noah's dove might have found a good resting-place,
there would have been none for Noah himself.

The sight of the distant mountains cheered us
forward, and after being twelve hours on our
voyage, we reached the foot of the hill called
Kundah, where some rude clearing proclaimed
the welcome presence of a Dyak settlement, and
at a quarter past five we came up to the house,
which stood on the plain, and made snug for the
night.

Considering the difficulties of the way, we had
advanced far, and though all hands were pretty
tired, I went up to make acquaintance with the
Dyak chief, whose people are a branch of the
extensive and scattered tribe of the Sibuyow. The
greater part of them have lately come from their
former location on the Sadong, after the death or
murder of their chief by the Data Maraja, who was
our host at Simunjang,

No earthly spot can well be more secluded than
their present residence, situated far beyond the

Digged by Google

ilO Mil. BKOOKES J0U11NAL. [CnAF. XV.

1840. habitation of the Malays, and only accessible,
throughout the greater part of the year, by an
intricate channel amid a swampy forest. The next
day, between nine and ten a. m., Williamson and
myself started for the lake in Rajah Ali's canoe,
accompanied by a second, containing the two pan-
gerans, w ho were attended by numerous Dyaks.
We had not proceeded, however, above ten minutes
before an orang-outang was descried seated amid
the branches of a high tree on the banks of the
stream. Startled by the noise, he made off before
we could land, and a hot pursuit commenced, the
animal being from time to time discovered, as he
slowly passed from tree to tree in advance of us,
whilst we struggled through the jungle beneath.
Having thus crossed a slight ridge of elevated
ground, we were stopped by the dark, deep, ugly-
looking swamp, and the chase likewise paused, and
from the top of a tree kept up an occasional grunting
bark. Our hesitation was only momentary, for,
throwing off my trowsers and shoes (which I re-
pented), I took water, followed by Rajah Ah" and
many Malays and Dyaks, and soon found myself
struggling up to the shoulders, with the rifle in
one hand and the ammunition in the other. As we
advanced a little, the water luckily shoaled to the
waist, and I bad time to look for the game, which
was stationary in the position he had taken when
last seen. Rajah Ali was by my side, and firing
" together at about forty-five yards, it was evident

Digged by Google

Ciiap. XV.] VXAB. BUHYINQ-PLACE. 21\

that one or both balls had taken effect, for the huge 1S4 °-
monster went more and more slowly from one tree
to another, whilst we kept loading and firing as fast
as our situation allowed; then wading here and
there, we enjoyed the full excitement of the chase.
The wood rang with shots, and the shouts of the
Dyaks, as waving their spears and brandishing their
swords, they rushed from one spot to another to
gain a view of the devoted brute. At length, a
fortunate shot from my rifle through his head
brought him from the summit of a tree, crashing
through the branches with a heavy splash into the
water. The chase was finished : the height of the
animal was four feet one inch, and it was said not
to be a large one.

During our progress we passed the burying-
ground of the Dyaks, and I again returned to
inspect it. It was situated on the slightly elevated
ridge near the channel, shaded by fine trees. Each
grave was entirely covered by a bundle of sticks a
foot and a half or two feet in height. These were
kept together by a transverse cross. On the graves
of the men were placed the scabbard of their swords,
their arm-rings, and other light ornaments, whilst
over those of the women were hung their waist-
rings of rattan; a jar of water and food were placed
at the head and foot of each, and in a hole amid the
burying-place I saw two skulls ; but they had the
appearance of being the beads of young persons
accidentally disinterred. The Dyaks had never

11, Google

uk. bkooke's joursal. [cm*, xv.

taken me before to a burying-ground, and I fancied
they wished to hurry me from this, and appeared
unwilling to remain themselves. On the whole,
this place of interment bore the aspect of neglect ;
but the superstitious observances of the people are
evident, and were we ignorant of them, the fact
alone of their placing food with the dead, would be
sufficient proof of their belief in a future life.

Having re-embarked, a pull of a mile or little
more brought us to the entrance of the lake or
padang* ; a little clear gem of water, about five
miles long and from one to two broad, surrounded
by woods and mountains. The hill we left in the
morning is called Kundah, about 700 feet high.
On the larboard-hand, somewhat retired from the
lake, is Papok, about 800 feet high, from which
inferior hills slope to the water's edge. At the
head of the lake are ridges of various elevation, and
retired from it, a short distance, the mountain of
Buri, about 1800 or 2000 feet in height, whilst over
it, in the background, the peak of Kalinkan is visible.
At this season the high ground is alone above water,
but during the north-east monsoon the lake is re-
presented as dry, with only a deep channel running
through it. The immediate banks on the larboard-
hand are low but verdant, and the hills are likewise
adorned with finer timber than the swampy plain.
Whilst lazily waiting the report of our Dyaks who
were detached in search of the mias, we fell in with

* Padang proper] j signifies a plain.

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] BALOW DYAKS. 221

a party of Bolows, who were building a prahu up 184 °-
a short creek. The pangerans instantly swore they
were the most treacherous and perfidious of the
Dyak tribes, and assured me I should be murdered
or maimed if I ventured near them; but having
sent to apprise them of my coming to prevent any
sudden alarm, I pushed into the creek, where I
found about twenty men at work. The chief spoke
Malay badly, for they are an independent tribe,
consisting of 500 or 600 warriors, and located about
half a day's journey from the lake to the southward.
They dislike the Malays, and hold little or no
intercourse with them, and few of these people
dare venture amongst them. In appearance, cus-
toms, and speech they are the same as the Sibuyows ;
and their language, therefore, as may be seen by
a reference to the dialect of the latter, is nearer the
Malay than is that of other tribes. They are
friendly with the Sibuyows, but at deadly feud
with the Sarebas, and they seemed proud when
they told me that the prahu they were making, was
meant for a cruise against these enemies. To me
they were very civil, invited me to their country,
and, on my declining, promised to visit me to-
morrow.

After our interview with the Balow other mias
were discovered, and off we set again and killed an
adult female rembi with a young one at her breast,
which we took alive, and a second a year or two
old (probably her former offspring) in company,

Digged by Google

222 MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XV.

mo. which we likewise killed. Heavy rains setting in
and our guns being thoroughly soaked, we returned
from an agreeable day's excursion, having added
much to natural history on this interesting point,
and something to geography. This adult female,
evidently full grown and by no means young,
measured three feet seven inches in height, with
that general resemblance to the young male killed
in the morning, which would naturally exist be-
tween animals of the same species and the relative
height and proportions which we should expect
between a young male and adult female. No
doubt can longer reasonably exist of the identity
of species of these two male and female rembi, and
their wide distinction from the pappan, or, as the
Dyaks call it, chappin. It would, however, be
desirable to procure an adult male rembi, or the
female pappan, with the callosities on the cheek.

Sept. 10. Sept 16. — Mounted the hill behind the Dyak
house called Kundah. From near the top we
gained an uninterrupted view to the W. and S. W
but from the forest on each side of the clearing it
is impossible to see either to the E. or the S. There
is a continuous range of mountains running from
Kalinkan as far as the eye can reach, and the
natives pointed out the mountains behind Sarawak,
which lay to the N. of Kalinkan ; and from their
several directions I should judge that they unite
with Gunongo Matang, Gadong, Po, and Pulo, which

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] BEAMINGS OF MOUNTAINS. ".

finish this range to the W. The bearings are as 1Si0 -
follows from Kundah : —

Remon, 2U3^. Remon is on the river Malikin,
■which runs into the Sadong. There is a small
lake and Dyak tribe called Malikin on it.

Rowan, 235. A high, conical mountain further
to the S. than the others.

Kalinkan, 158. Flat, long mountain.

Sadong, 238. Lower hills, said by the natives
to be the source of the river of that name.

Bukar, 271.

Guyu, 277. A high mountain. Extreme moun-
tain said to be behind the Sarawak, 287.

Direction from Kalinkan to Guyu, about W. or
*W. by N. As tar as I could judge from Guyu, the
hills tend to the N. considerably. Remon and
Guyu are further to the N. than Sadong or Rowan.
The latter, as I have said, is considerably behind
the front of the range.

Those hills are the highest in the range, and
Rowan the highest of all. Rowan I should think
at least 6000 feet in height, and Guyu about 4000;
but it is very difficult to form anything like a
correct judgment at so great a distance. The
natives state this range to run to the eastward
even as far as Kina Balow, and I have no doubt of
its contiuuance, for the rivers Sarebas, Linga, and
Rejang are similar to those we have already visited,
and most probably take their source from the same
range. From the entrance of Simunjang I took

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKES JOURKAT.. [Chap. XV.

the bearing of a distant mountain, probably Remon,
which bore S. by W. The existence of this range
is interesting, and is probably that which Arrow-
smith marked as running E. and W. through the
centre of the island, but which he was afterwards
persuaded to erase.

Whilst employed in taking these bearings, word
was brought of more orang outangs, so off I set
forgetting geography in the ardour of sport. It
was to my disappointment — another female rembi
with her young. The young one was shot in the
arms of the parent, which when severely wounded
let it go, then twisting the boughs into a nest
quietly seated herself, and in a short time expired
without falling, and causing us considerable trouble
to get her down, for the tree was lofty and difficult
to climb, and the Dyaks did Dot show the expertness
I expected. I may here note down what I have
observed of these animals in their wild state.
They are indolent and sluggish in their movements,
for, even when alarmed by the shouts of men and
the firing, they never went from tree to tree faster
than a man might easily follow through the jungle
below, nor did they on any occasion retreat from
us; after proceeding 100 or 200 yards, they
stopped and allowed their pursuers to come up
to them. In general they sought the very summit
of a lofty tree, and often remained seated without
changing their position, whilst several shots were
discharged at them. They appeared very indifferent

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] THE ORANO OUTANG.

to the presence of meo, and but little alarmed by the
noise made in approaching them. In one instance
only (that of the young male rembi) was flight
had recourse to before we fired, and then it was
not for any great distance. Their motions were
always slow and deliberate, as we perceived in the
young ones in captivity. When wounded, the
rembi uttered a sort of grunting bark, which, in
the tame one I had, betokened rage ; but never,
on any occasion I saw, did they offer to fight or
throw down any thing at their pursuers. The
natives fancy they do ; but I observed it was only
the rotten wood broken by their weight. In short,
they are very lazy and harmless, and easily got at ;
but they take a great deal of killing. One rembi had
six balls in him, and the seventh in the head alone
dispatched him. It must be borne in mind, how-
ever, that I have not seen the largest mias pappan ;
yet, from what I have observed and heard, I am
inclined to think the native stories of their ferocity
to be untrue or much exaggerated, though from
their great strength an old male might attack a
single man if provoked. Rajah Ali (the Datu
Jembrang's son), who enjoyed the sport keenly,
laughed at these tales, and assured me he would
catch any mias, even of the largest size, with a few
men. The way, as he explained it, was as follows: —
Having discovered the animal in a tree, they ap-
proach without disturbing him, and as quietly as
possible cut down all the trees around the one he
VOL. I. <J

Digged by Google

MB. BEOOKE'S JOURNAL. [GULP XT.

is in. Being previously provided with poles, some
with nooses attached to the ends and others forked,
they fell the isolated tree, and the mias, confused,
entangled, is beset by his pursuers, noosed, forked
down, and made captive. I doubt not this mode
may be adopted with success when the trees are
not thick, and, at any rate, I have made Rajah Ali
promise to try to procure me a large mias pappan
by offering him thirty dollars for one as tall as a
man. The mias, both pappan and rembi (I assume
the distinction), have nests or houses in the trees
formed by twisted leaves and twigs, and resembling
a rook's nest in every thing but size. The natives
always search for these nests, and, going beneath,
strike the tree in which they are a smart stroke,
when the animal, if there, generally gives a grunt.
I saw them pursue this method, but we never found
the animal in its lair ; but the wounded one, as I
have related, formed a nest and died in it. I
further learn from the natives that at the full of
the moon the mias roams a great deal, but at the
tame of new moon they are sluggish and remain
stationary in their nests. They attribute this to
a fever which seizes them about the new moon, but
it is more probable that, at the full, they roam
in search of the opposite sex. In the fruit season,
which here commences about November, the mias
are found close round the habitations of men, but
at other seasons they retire more into the foreBt,
and, from the appearance of their teeth, they must
live on hard-rinded fruits. The natives say they

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] HABITS OF THE ORANG OUTANG. 227

eat the bark of certain trees. They are never 1B *-
found in numbers together, in general only single,
though occasionally the male and female are in com-
pany. Of the many natives whom I have examined,
all agree concerning the two distinct species. Some
of these men were intelligent, and well acquainted
with the habits of the animal. Rajah Ali, who
was by no means given to exaggerate, was positive
that the female and young of the pappan are both,
like the male, distinguished by the callosities on
the cheeks. He assured me he had seen both. Datu
Maraja, of Simunjang, had often seen the female
pappan in the woods about his residence, but the
rembi was not found there. The females had the
cheek callosities as well as the males. At Sangi a
Dyak came to inform me he had killed a large
mias, and wanted to know if I would buy it. I
inquired which sort it was : he answered by putting
his hands on each side his face to intimate it was a
pappan. I then asked was it a male or female.
He replied, a female. How did he know? Because
she bad a young one in her arms. I promised to
buy the head, but unfortunately he never returned.
I may add, that in some places the rembi alone
is found ; at Linga the pappan is unknown. I
will not here discuss the craniology of the heads I
procured, amounting to eighteen in number ; but I
may state, that some were said to be males, others
females, by the natives who bought them. One
was positively stated to be a male rembi. The

Digged by Google

228 us. bbookb's JOURNAL. [Chap. XV.

1840. greater number of the head's brought were of the
pappan, and, from what I learn, I should say that
on the rivers near the coast, the pappan is the more
common species. The distribution of these animals
is confined, which probably arises from deficiency
of food. For instance, though they be found in
numbers of both species on the Sadong — the rembi
alone at Linga — they are likewise found at Sarebas
and Rejang, but unknown in the Sarawak and
Samarahan rivers to the westward, and in Borneo
Proper to the eastward. I here subjoin the ques-
tions sent by Waterhouse, with the answers an-
nexed, and I now entertain no doubt of the truth
of the native distinction of pappan and rembi, and
of obtaining sufficient proof to establish it beyond
doubt.

1st, Whether, if they distinguish two species,
and are acquainted with both sexes of each, the
common one is not the larger?

Near the sea coasts, generally speaking, the larger
is the more common. In some places, the larger or
pappan alone is found ; in others, only the smaller
or rembi. They are acquainted with both sexes of
each. The pappans, male and female, are distin-
guished by the callosities on the cheeks.

2nd, Whether the natives of Borneo distinguish
the male and female orangs by separate names ? No.

3d, Whether both species have in the male sex,
when adult, the large callosities on the cheeks ? No ;
the pappan alone has it.

4th, Whether the adult males of both species

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] SKELETONS OF THE MIAS. 229

have the canines equally large, that is, in proper- 1M0 -
tion to their size, and have the great longitudinal
ridge on the upper part of the head equally de-
veloped ? The canines are in proportion to the size,
nearly, if anything, in favour of the pappans. The
natives know nothing of the skull.

This is native information which I can add to.

Descending the hill we took leave of our Dyaks,
and got some miles down the river before dark,
bringing up in the narrow channel in four fathoms
water.

Sept 17. — Started early, and about twelve Sept 17.
reached Siinanjang — the pangerans proceeded a
short way up the Sadong, whilst I agreed to meet
them again at Sangi.

This halt was absolutely necessary on account of
the skeletons we had on board, imperfectly cleaned,
which emitted no very savoury odour ; the boat,
indeed, was a complete charnel house, and the con-
tents in every stage of decay.

Sept. 18. — I was in hopes of getting another Sept. is.
mias this morning, but was disappointed. In the
afternoon we dropped down to Sangi, to take up
our old quarters at the Datu's, whilst waiting the
return of the pangerans.

Sept. 19. Pangerans still absent. Procured a Sept. 19.
few more skulls, particularly one, positively stated
to be that of a male rembi.

Sept. 20. — The pangerans having arrived, we Sept. 20.
dropped down the river to Senange, a narrow creek

Digged by Google

mb. bbooke's jocrnal. [cut. xv.

off the mouth of which we brought up. The Orang
Kaya Pamanka of the Sibuyows had some men on
the look out for us, and at dusk Mr. Williamson and
myself got into a small canoe, and were absolutely
hauled over a mile and a half of mud by a dozen Dyak
men and boys : the conveyance was novel. On ar-
riving at the village we were received at the house
of the Tomangong, and thence walked by torch-light
over the prostrate trunks of huge trees to the Pa-
manka. They gave us for supper rice cakes fried
crisp in vegetable oil, and plenty of hot and cold
water. After this repast we retired to our host's pri-
vate apartment, and some nice mats were spread for
our bed. In one corner of the room lay the chief and
his lady, screened from view by a curtain. We
occupied the centre of the apartment, and the other
corner was filled with the household. Every thing
here was of the simplest fashion, but nothing be-
tokening abject poverty. They cultivate rice more
than sufficient for their own consumption. The
river yields a precarious supply of fish, and the
forest a little game. They have their domestic
pigs and poultry, and their slight extra wants and
luxuries are supplied by the sale of a little bees' wax
or birds' nests, which they are at the trouble of
collecting for that purpose. The Orang Kaya
Pamanka spoke much and earnestly of the great
advantage which would accrue to the Dyaks from
the residence of European merchants in the country.
As it ib, they seem to be little oppressed by the

Digged by Google

Cur. XV.] FOBTIFIED DWELLINGS. 231

Malays, except indirectly. Their service is due to 1M0 -
the rajah, but evidently on the occasion of the
present war was rendered with great reluctance, for
the chief complained that they got nothing for it.
No taxes are levied on them directly, but the rajah
takes whatever he wants, at whatever price he pleases,
and the pangerans take all they can get for nothing
at all. The revenue of the country is ruined, as I
have said, by the rajah seizing what he pleases, and
the pangerans what they can.

The sword and shield of the chief hung near his
bed's head, and their simple household furniture and
implements were suspended around; but we had
no heads to complete the description, or to excite
the ordinary feelings of superstitious horror at being
among a wild Dyak community. I rose from my
mat in order to inspect the long room or gallery,
and there found the men and boys stretched on the
bamboo floor, covered with their cloths formed from
the bark of the Ippu tree. A few, more wakeful
than the rest, raised their heads as I walked past
them, and having taken a glance by the expiring
flames of the damar torches, sank back again to
slumber, without disturbing my promenade. They
keep no watch, and trust to their dogs to warn
them of the approach of enemies. Their house is
partially fortified with logs of trees, and they live
always in expectation of an attack from their im-
placable foes of Serebas. Having satisfied my
curiosity, I returned to my couch, stretched myself
with a feeling of secure satisfaction, and, whilst the

Digged by Google

232 mr. brooke's journal. [Cur. xv.

1MQ. drowsy god flitted over my eyelids, the plumes of
the Argus pheasant, which ornamented the sword
of the Dyak chief, waved to and fro, and assumed
many fantastic shapes, till my senses were lost in
sweet oblivion. The next morning, a breakfast of
dry rice, hard boiled eggs, and hot water — the
last I changed for cold, — was placed before us
about seven o'clock. This community consists of
from 200 to 300 men — inhabiting two large
houses, the largest being about 257 yards in
length. They have a few brass guns of Borneo
manufacture, but most of them are without car-
riages, and they are so inexpert in the use of them,
that they are calculated to terrify the enemy rather
than hurt them.

The Orang Kaya Pamanka is a man of intel-
ligence (as before stated), and far removed above
the gross prejudice of his tribe. He has no beads
in his long house, and he expressed a wish to me
that the custom could be abolished ; and his senti-
ments and example must tend towards doing so.
I inspected some gold and silver ornaments of their
own manufacture, which were neatly worked —
flowery patterns, consisting chiefly of bracelets and
ear-rings. I may in conclusion mention, what I
omitted in its proper place, respecting the omens
derived from birds. Whilst at Padong one of the
seamen shot a red-breasted bird they call the Papow,
which the Dyaks immediately informed us was held
in reverence amongst them. I was sorry for this
occurrence, lest it might cause them uneasiness,

Digged by Google

CH4*. XV.] OMENS AND SUPERSTITIOUS JUTES.

but they appeared neither shocked nor surprised
at it. I mentioned the circumstance to the Orang
Kaya, with the name of the bird, and found him
well acquainted with it, and a believer in the
superstition. The papow, he told me, was one of
three birds they imagined to give warning by their
flight or note.

Should they be on a journey, and hear this bird
to the left, they would take the road to the right ;
if heard to the right, they would go to the left ;
but on occasions of importance, such as a meditated
attack on their enemies, if the bird were heard on
the left, they returned ; but if on the right, the
omen was favourable, and they proceeded. If the
bird was heard in front, it was a signal that the
enemy were at hand ; if behind, the omen was con-
sidered very bad. Insects have also their influ-
ence on the minds of these deluded people. Two of
great authority; one called kunding, the other
bunsne ; the former with a short note, the latter
with a long one. The kunding heard in front at
the early part of the night is the sign of an enemy,
and a Dyak will change his place of rest; heard in
the same quarter late at night, the sign is good,
especially if the long note of the bunsue be heard
high at the same moment. The kunding heard in
the rear is the worst omen ; in war it induces them
to retreat to their own country, without pro-
secuting any undertaking they may have in view.
Beside these birds and insects, they are also guided
by snakes in a certain degree; and it shows the

Digged by Google

334 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chat. XV.

1M0 - sincerity of their superstition, that after burning
' the jungle, and preparing a farm, if any animal be

found dead upon it they reject the use of the crop.
The insects of omen are likewise used to point
out the quarter whence a theft has been committed.
Their mode of inquiry is curious. They make up
a little ciri, and turning to the quarter they
suspect, they throw it forward and call out for the
insect : if the insect respond from that direction,
the theft is charged to the tribe so pointed out ; if it
fail to answer, they try another quarter.

The range of mountains which extends along the
west coast, commences between Sambas and Datu,
and has been traced to Kalinkan, and there is little
doubt reaches to the extreme north of the island,
terminating with Eina Balow and the lofty region
said by Dalrymple and others to exist in the vicinity
of Malludu. These mountain regions are inhabited
by Dyak tribes, of whom I shall proceed to give some
additional particulars. Though all the wild people
of Borneo are by Europeans called Dyaks, the name,
properly, is only applicable to one particular class
inhabiting parts of the north-western coast, and the
mountains of the interior. I had opportunities of
seeing them under the most favourable circum-
stances for judging not only their manners and
habits, but likewise their dispositions, that is,
during the difficulties and trials of civil war ; and
I believe there are but very few tribes which have
not come under my notice ; and they may all be cer-
tainly classed as one race of people, judging by the

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] LAND AND SEA DYAKS.

unerring test of language, and on the same ground
we should infer them to be linked to the great
Polynesian family. Nor is there any peculiarity
in physical appearance, manners, or customs, which
militates against this conclusion; but from their
different localities, and consequent different modes
of life, they may be subdivided into land and sea
Dyaks ; the former inhabiting the mountain region,
and the latter dwelling on the rivers contiguous
to the coast. The Sibuyow, Balow, Sakarran, and
Sarebas inhabit rivers on the coast, reckoning from
the east, in the order they are placed or nearly so.

The Sakarran are fairer in complexion, superior
in stature, and better made than any Dyaks I have
seen ; their countenances, too, are peculiar, — fea-
tures good, lips thin, and the eyes small and keen ;
their bodies are spare, and they bear the air of wild
and independent people. Some of their prahus
carried fifty men, and they plied the paddles with
vigour and regularity. They are the moat savage
of the tribes, the Sarebas excepted, and delight in
head-hunting and pillage, whether by sea or land ;
but those natives who are addicted to piracy and
robbery are exceptions to the general rule, though
they come nearer to the account of the Dyak cha-
racter given by travellers. By sea, the Sakarran
and Sarebas reckon all they fall in with as fair
prize, and acknowledge no friends, but in their
own waters : they are faithful to their agreements,
hospitable, and, it is reported, kind to strangers ;
but I must not omit that they are held in detesta-

lignbd by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XV.

tion by all the other Dyaks, who, to stigmatise them,
remark, " When you meet a Dyak with many rings
in his ears, trust him not, for he is a bad man."
They are distinguished from the other tribes by the
number of rings thus worn. I have counted as many
as twelve in one ear, inserted in different holes.
Their love of finery is greater than that of the people
inland, and in going out on an expedition, they wear
caps of red cloth a foot high, square or peaked at the
summit, embroidered with beads and shells, orna-
mented with feathers, and stuck round with pieces
of cloth or paper. The spear and the sword com-
prise their weapons ; they have no muskets or fire-
arms, and never use the sumpitan. On one occasion
a party went from the camp with a vow or deter-
mination not to return without procuring a head.
They were ornamented highly, after their fashion,
and proceeded, with considerable show ; but, after
a week, they returned unsuccessful, looking starved
and fagged, and their finery soiled by the life in the
jungle!

The Balows are a plain and simple people: they
never decorate their persons fantastically, but their
prahus are carved about their high sterns, which
distinguish them from the plain boats of Sakarran
and Sarebas. They are represented as very brave,
and are engaged in ceaseless warfare with their
neighbours, against whom they maintain them-
selves, though very inferior in number. They are
not wanting in those high-sounding titles which
mortals arrogate in spite of their weakness. One

Digged by Google

Chap. XV.] COSTUME.

chief was grandly designated " tukong langit,"
which, interpreted, means "the walking-stick of
the sky."

The Sarebas are by no means so warlike as the
others, and from their great dread of fire-arms, may
be kept in subjection by a comparatively small
body of Malays. The sound of musketry or
cannon was enough to put the whole body to
flight ; and when they did run, fully the half dis-
appeared, returning to their own homes.

On their backs the men and women carry a neat
mat basket, suspended round the forehead, and when
it rains, a mat covers the head and the basket,
and throws off the rain from their persons. In
the woods they cut down a few branches of trees,
which they stick to windward, and with a plat-
form of reeds, or bamboos, raise themselves a few
inches from the ground ; blazing fires complete the
encampment ; and in a country where so much wet
falls, it is no wonder that rheumatism is common
amongst them. Their cures are of the simplest
kind. I have seen them with a smouldering fire
under a bamboo grating, only a foot high, on which
the patient sits or sleeps, naked, enveloped in smoke,
which would smother a European, and exposed to
a temperature Monsieur Chaubert himself would
shrink from. The differences between these inland
tribes and those of the coast are few. They spoke
of a small green bird, and a dark bird, but never
showed them to me, though X have known them
turn back from a day's work on account of an un-

Dignbd by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JODBNAL. ICaxr. XT.

favourable omen having been observed. The
women amongst them are ill-looking and hard
worked ; their only peculiarity in dress is a broad
belt, or pair of stays formed of the bark of trees or
hard wood, bound sometimes with a rim of copper.
In short, these numerous tribes may be looked
upon as a most unhappy and depressed people, un-
able to resist their tyrants, and too much attached
to their mountains, or too ignorant to fly beyond
the reach of their power ; but, nevertheless, they
present so many good features of character, that
their improvement might be rapidly calculated
upon.

Digged by Google

MISSION FHOM SAMBAS.

MISSION PROM SAMP.A3. — 1LLANUN PIRATES. — NEGOTIATIONS
WITH THE RAJAH. — PROSPECTS OF SARAWAK. — RESOURCES
OF THE DISTRICT. — MR. BROOKE BUYS A SCHOONER. — SUM-
MARY OF PROCEEDINGS. — NATIVE EXPEDITION UP THE RIVER.

THE RAJAH PREVAILED UPON TO ABANDON IT. AUDIENCE

WITH HUDA HASSIH. — MODE OF SPENDING THE DAT. — SARA-

WAKIAN CHESS PLAYING. — INTRIGUES AMONG THE CHIEFS.

CHINESE JARS. FIRST VISITS OF THE CHINESE TO THE ARCHI-
PELAGO. TOPOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION. — INLAND TRIBES.

— NATIVE IDEAS OF THE COUNTBT AND ITS INHABITANTS.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE KAYANS. PHYSIOLOGICAL

COMPARISONS. — USE OF THE SUMPITAN. — SWORDS. RE-
LIGION. METHOD OF TRADING. FUNERAL CEREMONIES.

REFLECTIONS. DIFFICULTIES OF MR, BROOKE'S POSITION. —

ENMITY OF MACOTA. HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS. — SUCCESS

of MB. brooke'b plans. — reflections.

The sphere of foreign politics has been enlarged ««■
by the arrival of a brig from Sambas with a man
of rank on board, authorised by the sultan to make
inquiries into the prospects of trade between the
two countries.

I soon discovered that the mission was entirely
an intrigue of Makota's ; and the brig was conse-
quently dismissed, with an intimation, on my part,
that I was ready to consider the proposals of the
Bultan of Sambas relative to the opium trade,
whenever he sent them to me in form.

The intelligence from the west, however, was a
source of real distress to me. A terrible incursion

Digged by Google

me. Brooke's journal. [cm*, in.

had been made by the wild Dyaks of Sakarran
into the territory of Sarawak, burning and de-
stroying the weak tribes, and carrying away their
women and children into slavery. The unhappy
tribe of San Pro was attacked last month, and, I
fear, by the instigation of Sherif-Sahib of Sadung,
who is a great encourager of the devastating
system, and a confederate of the Illanuns: my
hands are tied at present, so I must content myself
with diplomatic overtures ; but should these fail,
as I grow stronger I will resort to stronger measures
— but what a frightful picture is this — murder,
robbery, and slavery, close to our British' pos-
sessions.

Early in January, and shortly after the termina-
tion of the rebellion, which for four years had
distracted the country, the rajahs, the pangerans,
and the " army " broke up from the encampment
near Siniavin, and returned to Sarawak. Here I
had an opportunity of seeing a fleet of Illanun
pirates, which, by the permission of the rajah, came
up the river, and remained for several days at
anchor off the town. It was reported that their
object was to capture the Royalist, or, at any rate,
to carry off her figure-head, represented to be of
solid gold. I did not myself credit one word of
the story, though I took every precaution for the
safety of the vessel. I had frequent interviews
with the Illanun chiefs, and occasionally re-
monstrated with them on the crime of piracy.
Their reply was always the same — that they fol-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. XVI.] NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE RAJAH. 241

lowed the custom and mode of life of their an- > 841 -
cestors ; and this reminded me that, some years
ago, when a number of Sulu pirates were condemned
to be hung at Singapore, they coolly observed, " If
we bad not been pirates, our own chiefs would have
killed us ; and, because we are pirates, you kill us :
it is the same to us, whatever we do — either way :
we die." And certainly I should hesitate to carry
the extreme penalty of the law into execution, on
men forced into such a line of life by their masters,
unless under extraordinary circumstances. Still it
is surprising, when I look upon the savages and
their calling, to think that no effective measures
are taken by European nations for their sup-
pression. Once attack them on their own coast
with steamers, and the sea would be cleared.

I have been waiting, with saint-like patience, for
the signature of the papers which declare me
" resident at Sarawak," that is, which grant me
permission to live in the province, " to seek profit
by trade ;" a mere form of words, as I am given to
understand by the rajah, in order to satisfy the
sultan. I am not very particular as to their tenor,
for papers and engagements with these people are
but straw ; yet I must possess myself of a regular
document to prove the feelings and disposition
of the rajah.

February 14. — The required papers were de- Feb.n.
livered to me yesterday, duly signed and sealed,
immediately after which I dropped down the river
in the Royalist, and am now beating along the

VOL. i. R

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKB'6 JOURNAL. four. XVI.

coast, bound to Singapore. I have engaged to
return in three or four months, and to bring a
vessel for trade, laden with a mixed cargo for the
Sarawak market. The rajah, on his part, promises
to build me a house, and to procure antimony ore
in return for my goods; besides which, he also
engages to renew the negotiations relative to giving
me the government of the country, and to assist
my plan of gradually developing its resources.

Singapore, March 31. — I have not deter-
mined on settling in Borneo without the most
mature and serious deliberation, and without
seeing a fair prospect of success, and if success-
ful, of no ordinary advancement. It is not only
on private views of advantage that I would act,
but that I would, generally speaking, seek rather
to add to my reputation than my fortune. To
develope the resources of a large country is a
task I should be most proud to accomplish ; and
whether we look to the benefits which must
accrue to the natives, or to the extension of
British trade, it ia equally calculated to rouse
our best energies. The country ; -of Sarawak is
the finest conceivable; and the influx of Chinese
settlers renders its rapid improvement not only
possible, but certain, if not impeded by unhappy
causes, which it is equally impossible to foresee or
calculate upon. Even looking on the undertaking
in its worst light, and supposing that, after a year
or two, I find it impracticable to accomplish what I
so much desire, the attempt will, and must, conduce

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] HESOUBCES OF THE DISTRICT. 24i

greatly to ameliorate the native condition, and give 1M1 "
them a taste for British manufactures, and some
appreciation of a just and protecting government.
Another plan might have been adopted, without
my engaging in the trade of the place ; but on
consideration, though rather leaning to it, I rejected
the alternative.

I shall be able to preserve ike peace, and gradually
to increase the exports, by giving a fair price to
those classes who seek the produce of the soil, —
in political economy, the productive classes. The
great evil, the principal cause, which prevents the
advancement of Malay countries is, that merchants
and traders must deal with the chiefs or pangerans,
who extort from the poor, especially the Dyaks,
out of most of their goods, without offering any
equivalent value ; the consequence is, that the
population at large will not be at the trouble of
working or seeking produce for which they get
nothing. I have known goods worth twenty
dollars at Singapore, for which the Dyaks received
one teacup full of salt. Can we be surprised that
they will not labour? The measures to be taken
must be at first purely remedial, and suited to na-
tive ideas and feelings. The local superintendence
is at present in the hands of two Patingis and a
Bandar, who squeeze the poor inhabitants, and are
in turn squeezed by their superiors. The rajah,
Muda Hassim, is, however, opposed to this evil, and,
without the energy to correct it, desires to return
to the better government enjoined by their written

Digged by Google

me. brooke's journal. [&l». xvr.

law, or Ondong-Ondong ; with his consent and ap-
probation, therefore, I am to carry two reforms into
execution, founded on this written law of the land.
The first is, to abolish and forbid all arbitrary ex-
actions ; and the second, to allow to all classes the
right of trade and labour.

As a consequence to these changes, a light, fixed
tax must be imposed on rice, and a salary given to
the Patingis, and both the Patingis and the poorer
classes exempted from all demands from superior
natives. Here I shall rest for the present; but
even this a foreigner could not do alone; and in
making the arrangements, the rajah is to promul-
gate and take the entire responsibility of the mea-
sure, whilst I am to see it carried into execution
by personally visiting and encouraging the poorer
natives, especially the Dyaka. I believe we shall
have little difficulty in this preliminary and ne-
cessary change, as the local officers as well as the
poor will be greatly benefited by it. The veget-
able oil here will most likely turn out a valuable
commercial article. I am told it may be had in
large quantities, and the price is low. There are
many mineral productions of value; in short, I feel
convinced that all men of intelligence will watch
with interest and forward my undertaking, which
is indeed the only feasible way of extending our
trade and knowledge in Borneo. If the Govern-
ment could be roused to make a commercial treaty
with Borneo, or even send a complimentary mis-
sion, with a few presents, it would strengthen the

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI. j SUMMARY OF PROCEEDINGS. 245

kindly feelings with which the English are re- 1M1 -
garded in Borneo. For myself I ask nothing, and
if I do make any future appeal, it will be merely
on the general advantages likely to result; and
those advantages, commercial, political, scientific,
and above all philanthropic, must, one would think,
decide the question with rational men.

April 10. — Two months have slipped away, and -April 10.
I am again at sea in the " Straits," bound to Sa-
rawak. My stay at Singapore may be briefly
narrated. I took a small bungalow on Mount
Erskine, and lived there very contentedly, enjoying
the hospitality of the Governor and residents, and
mixing much with Napier, Elliot, and the military.
My principal object, however, was to procure a
vessel for the trade of Sarawak and at length I
have succeeded in buying the schooner Swift, of
ninety tons, for the great price of 5000 dollars.
She had little to recommend her, but the case was
urgent ; and having got the cargo on board as
quickly as possible, the squadron sailed, viz.,
Royalist and Swift, and we are now steering a
course to the eastward.

Sarawak, August 1. — My rough notes and re- Aug. 1.
marks of the last four months are before me.
From these I will draw up a summary of my
proceedings.

On my first arrival here I was received with the
usual honours and salutes, and renewed kindness
on the part of the rajah and people generally ; and
promises were made that the antimony ore should

Digged by Google

246 MR. BKOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cau.XTL

1841. be brought down with the least possible delay, in
exchange for the goods in the hold of the Swift.
Great, however, was my indignation at discovering,
that the house, which the rajah had engaged to
have in readiness for me, was not even commenced.
Threats of leaving caused this forgetfulnesa to be
remedied ; and, about three weeks ago, I took pos-
session of my wooden tenement, and now write in
my library. As to the antimony, I saw no prospect
of its delivery; and the Swift becoming leaky, I
was obliged to consent to the discharge of the cargo
to the shore, and it was accordingly delivered over
to the care of the rajah, on his assurance and '
promises that the ore should be brought directly,
and I had the less hesitation in consenting, from
the knowledge that it could be obtained with
facility and at little expense.

The operation of landing the goods was carried
on from morning till night with the greatest care
and regularity. At last, the whole cargo was fairly
landed and distributed, and from that moment a
complete change came over the spirit of the chiefs.
1 was forgotten, laid aside, and nothing done
towards supplying the antimony. Still I clung to
the belief that the apathy of the native character
was the main-spring of this ungrateful conduct,
and that I was not the victim of foul play and
treachery ; but weeks passed away without producing
any change; and though determined to arm myself
with patience, I could not forget that the heavy
expense of two vessels was upon me. Just at this

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] NATIVE EXPEDITION UP THE BIVEE. 24'

time I was mortified at observing a fleet of above a 1841 -
hundred prahus, containing between two and three
thousand wild Dyaks and Malays, sweep past my
house with the intention of proceeding up the river,
nominally for the purpose of attacking a hostile
tribe in the mountains, but actually, I knew full
well, to slaughter the inoffensive people on the
banks, and procure slaves and plunder.

I instantly repaired on board the yacht, sent a
firm remonstrance to Muda Hassim, and succeeded
in preventing the expedition, by which measure
hundreds of lives were probably spared. It was
also at this period that information reached me,
through a native channel, of an English ship having
been wrecked on the N.W. coast, and that the crew
were prisoners at the capital. I entreated the rajah
to exert himself in their behalf, and to send a person
of rank to the sultan with a letter expressive of
my anxiety for their release. Day after day passed
without his arriving at any decision, though pro-
mises were abundant, till at last I determined no
longer to trust to unmeaning phrases, but to de-
spatch the Royalist, on my own account, for that
object. A portion of the antimony ore had now
been shipped on board the Swift, and there being
no probability of a further remittance, I decided
on sending her also to Singapore, and both vessels
sailed accordingly, for their different destinations,
on the 25th of July j my three companions and
myself remaining on shore at my house. This
arrangement completed, I demanded an audience

Digged by Google

248 mr. bhooke's journal. [chap. xvi.

1841. -virith the rajah, who had been shamming sick for the
~~~ last three weeks, and had shut himself up within

the sacred precincts of the harem. I now felt aware
that fraud had been added to the treachery of the
pangerans, who had been deceiving me from the
commencement, and who, in addition to cheating
me out of half the cargo, had also received five
hundred dollars as an instalment for placing the
government into my hands.

"When the audience took place I pointed out the
injustice of the rajah's conduct in detaining my
vessel so long ; also, the injustice of withholding
the antimony ore, the delay in assisting me to
release my countrymen, the cruelty of keeping
the women prisoners contrary to his promise to me
at the termination of the rebellion, and his utter
want of faith respecting the negotiations for the
government of the country ; and, in short, placed
the whole of my grievances before him in un-
mistakeable language. It was of no avail, since,
with more abundant promises, I was as far as ever
from receiving substantial justice.

In the meantime, however, I had not been al-
together idle, having made an excursion into the
interior, and succeeded in obtaining much novel
information respecting the aborigines of the central
part of this vast island. But, in the first place,
a word respecting the Malay rulers. I am daily
becoming more and more acquainted with then-
character. Their own nature is one tissue of
deceit, cunning, and intrigue, and they believe

Digged by Google

Cbjjf. XVI.] SAKAWAK1AH CHESS-PLATINQ.

every one to be made of the Bame materials. For
my own part, I cannot play the hypocrite, even
if I wished it. I cannot pretend a friendship
where I feel none ; and, indeed, in my present
extraordinary position, it would be detrimental
to my own interests to do so, because a European
should never stoop to the arts of the natives, and
my standing here must be a commanding and
independent one, or none at all. I will carry on
no system of humbug with the Rajah Muda Hassim
himself, neither will I allow him to carry it on
with me. I suffered much at his hands on my
first arrival, and bore patiently his injustice and
want of faith ; but it must not be again repeated.
My spare hours are devoted to studying the lan-
guage, reading, and chart-making; and my com-
panions are constantly employed — some stuffing
animals and birds, others in teaching our young
Bugis and Dyak youths their letters, and in-
structing them in copying my vocabularies. Nine
is the breakfast-hour ; four, the time for dinner,
after which we stroll out till dark, and drink tea
at eight. Of wine and grog we have none, and
I believe we are all better without it, retiring
happily to our beds about ten, ready for that
repose which will fit us for the labour of the
morrow.

I have also been engaged in watching some
of the head-men amusing themselves at chess,
which is a favourite game with them. They are
really skilful in playing it after their own fashion.

Digged by Google

1841.

MR. BHOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cbap. XVI

It is called main chatur, or game of chequers. The
king is the rajah ; the queen — mantri, or minister ;
the bishop — gajah, or elephant ; the knight —
kudah, or horseman; the castle — ter, or chariot ;
and the pawn — bidak, or foot-soldier. The check
is expressed by asah, and checkmate by mati. So
far it resembles the nomenclature of other Malay
countries. Crawford informs us that the Javanese
are hardly acquainted with the game save by
report, which certainly goes far to show that it
was not introduced by the Hindus ; whilst the
Malays are passionately attached to it, having in
more recent times acquired it from the Telingas,
who, from the evidence of language, must have
taken it from the Persians, the names being in that
language. For instance, " chatur," the name of the
game, is Persian and not Indian ; " sab," check, is
the Persian word "shah," and the only way in
which the Indian islanders can pronounce it ;
" bidah," a pawn, is but a corruption of " piadah,"
a foot-soldier ; and " mat " is the true Persian word
for checkmate, borrowed by ourselves, and more
correctly by the French. These are Crawford's
reasons — and very substantial ones — not only
to prove that chess was not introduced by the
Hindus into the Archipelago, but that they have
no title to the invention of that noble game ; and,
as he adds, "Sir William Jones acknowledges that
no account of such a game exists in the writings
of the Brahmans," I can see little to oppose to this
reasoning ; and I think it may be pronounced that

Digged by Google

Ciur.XVr.] CUESS AMONG THE MALAYS.

chess, having been invented in Persia, travelled
thence to India, and, subsequently, from the Te-
linga country to the Archipelago.

I am unacquainted with the game as played by
the Persians ; but, as neither Marsden, nor Craw-
furd, describes the Malay method, which differs
considerably from that of Europe, I shall here
insert it. The board is placed in the same way,
and the queens stand to the right of their re-
spective kings, which brings each queen opposite
to her adverse king. This is the only difference
in placing the pieces. The moves are precisely
similar to our own, with the exception of the king's.
The king, when checked for the first time, has the
right of making the knight's move, or to move two
squares. After this sally he is reduced to the same
powers as a European king. This first move (in
which he can of course take), on being checked,
alters the game considerably, as one great object
then becomes to prevent the check of your own
king early in the game, and to gain a check of
your adversary. The usual, and apparently the
most approved method amongst them, is to open
the game from the queen's castle's pawn, and,
pushing out the queen's knight's and the queen's
bishop's pawns, to manoeuvre the queen behind them.
It appears to me that all this greatly cramps the
game, in some measure renders it more tricky, and
prevents the real strength of the various pieces
from being fully developed in order to guard
against a check j for it will be evident, if the king

Digged by Google

252 me. bbooke's journal. [Chap.xvl

i84i. be once checked, he is deprived of one great ad-
vantage which your adversary still holds. Castling
is not allowed except in two moves, the first being
the castle's move up to the king, and on the king
receiving a check he can exercise his right of
jumping to the inside of the castle.

The remaining difference in the game is the play
of the pawns : a pawn moved out cannot pass an
adversary's pawn, his first move being restricted to
one square in this case ; and a pawn having been
pushed up into the adversary's game, he cannot
call a piece except on the castle's square, the pawn
arriving at the other squares being obliged, before
he gains a queen or piece, to make two extra
moves; for instance, should a pawn have arrived
at the queen's bishop's square, he may gain a queen
or other piece by moving to the knight's square ;
and lastly to the castle's first square, or at his option
to the knight's first square, and then optional either
to the bishop's second or the castle's second, or
else to the queen and king's first, or queen's first
and king's second. In fact, this is a delay rather
than a prevention, as, from the number of Bquares
which may be taken, it is extremely difficult to
guard them all. I have played several games, and
made many inquiries, but have not yet discovered
any other difference in the Bornean and European

I must now return to subjects of more moment.
Intrigues are at work which I cannot at present
unravel ; but I perceive that another sort of game

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] ANCIENT CHINESE JARS.

253

is playing among the chiefs, whose object is to * •
drive me out of the country by any means, and to
involve me in a dispute with the Dutch authorities
at Sambas. It will not succeed. I see through it
thus far, and am prepared to meet it. I have al-
ready pointed out the want of candour, and the
deviation from the straight path, of some who called
themselves the friends of better government. I
have told them that, however perfect their deceit,
it will never succeed with me, and I have sent them
from my presence, perplexed, ashamed, and trem-
bling. But the atrocities committed in the interior,
and along the coast, are frightful, and yet the
latter might, at any rate, be suppressed. Robbery,
plunder, murder, and slavery, close to our own — to
British possessions !

The sultan of Sambas has resigned all claims to
the antimony ore, and is anxious to arrange about
the opium ; he, however, whilst sending me many
polite messages, declines writing, as he thinks it
would not be agreeable to the Dutch. As for the
opium trade, I have no intention, whatever, of
entering into any speculation on my own account.
Some Dyaks, lately from the interior, have
brought one of the celebrated Jars; I do not buy it,
since it is far too dear as a mere curiosity. It stands
three feet high, and is narrow both at the top and
bottom, with small rings round the mouth, for the
purpose of suspension. The colour is light brown,
traced faintly with dragons, and its chief merit and
proof of antiquity is the perfect smoothness of the

Digged by Google

254 MR. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XVI.

1841. bottom. The ware itself appears coarse and glazed,
and those in which the dragon are in alto relievo
are valued at a hundred reals. They are Dot held
sacred by the Dyaks as objects of worship, or as
venerable relics, though none can be manufactured
at the present time ; but are collected as a proof of
riches, in the same way that the paintings of old
masters are in Europe.

There can be no shadow of doubt that the
manufacture is Chinese, since similarly formed
dragons are unknown in any country except China,
They are the real grotesque monsters peculiar to
that nation, and were probably introduced many
centuries ago. I am struck by a remark of Gibbon,
which, though it proves nothing, may assist us in
forming an idea of the navigation of the Archipelago
in those days, or as far back as the time of Jenghis
Khan. Forty-five years after the incursion of that
monarch into China, his grandson, Kublai, reduced
the kingdoms of Korea, Tonquio, Cochin China,
Pegu, Bengal, and Tibet.

" He explored the Indian Ocean with a fleet of a
thousand ships; they sailed in sixty-eight days,
most probably to ike Isle of Borneo, under the Equi-
noctial line, and though they returned not without
spoil or glory, the emperor was disappointed that
the savage king had escaped his hands." I may
here remark, that as early as the year 1279, we
have evidence of the Moguls having navigated to
the Indian Ocean ; and, immediately preceding this
passage, we have an account of the Chinese fleet of

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] ROUTES INTO THE INTERIOR.

Soag, The conquest of China by Jenghis Khan
must first have instructed the Tartars in the art of *
navigating the ocean ; and it may yet, from Chinese
historians, be discovered, that it was at that period
the Celestials themselves first visited the Archi-
pelago. I look forward with confidence to our
increasing knowledge of the literature of this an-
cient people to supply much valuable information
on these subjects. I have lately, when my other
occupations admitted, been collecting and arranging
much matter respecting the interior of Borneo, into
which I hope some day to penetrate myself; but, as
this may not be practicable, I will at once note down
what I think is curious and interesting.

From the interior of the Sarawak river, it is one
day's journey to a tributary of the Pontiana or
Kassavas, descending which for two days the tra-
veller reaches Sangion (Sang-ow), situated nearly at
the junction of the two streams. From the upper
course of the Sadong river, the journey across the
mountains is only half a day to the same tributary
stream, and nearer to Sangion than the route from
Sarawak.

From Lingu the journey across is one day to the
main river, above the junction of the tributary
stream.

We may reckon a day's journey over the
mountains at fifteen or twenty miles. The routes
from the three rivers before spoken of are in fre-
quent use among the natives, and though the
distances may be incorrect, the facts nre beyond

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JODBNAL. [Chap. XVI.

question; and this tributary stream joining the
- Pontiana river, must take its rise from the range
of mountains before mentioned, namely those run-
ning about a degree inland from the N."W. coast;
it is, therefore, probable that the great rivers of
Sambas, Sirkawari, and Landak have their sources
between this tributary of the Pontiana and the sea,
and therefore may be traced to the same range.
The natives state that the Sambas river becomes
small and rocky after ten days' ascent, and pro-
bably reaches the mountains to the south-westward
of Sarawak.

Sangion is stated to be a Malay raj abate, not far
distant from Kappawas, which river, at this junction,
is larger than the Sarawak. Many petty states,
with towns and villages, are represented to be on
its banks, but I cannot collect their names.

In this part of the interior several lakes also
exist ; the principal one is Salombow, but I could
not ascertain minutely its exact locality. I was
also informed, that the interior of the Bangar river
was not above a few days' journey from the
Pontiana, and that the distance from the former to
the Koti was, as nearly as possible, the same. Of
the general truth of these statements I have no
doubt; for the three streams, as far as we can
judge, diverge nearly from a common centre, and
from the direction of the Pontiana to the N.E.,
and that of the Koti river to the northward of
west, a third river between them, into the interior
in either or any direction, must bring them not far

Digged by Google

Cup. XVI.] KAYAN8 OF THE INTERIOR.

asunder. Much additional information, from people
of the Bintulu and Mezimen has also been given
me. The residence of these tribes is on the rivers
bearing these names, and contiguous to the River
Barram, within the point called Tanjong Barram.
The sources of these three rivers approximate, and
there is an easy communication from one to the
other, and the country around is inhabited by
Kayans, who are represented as the most powerful
people in the interior, divided into numerous tribes,
but bearing distinctive marks of near consanguinity
and national character.

This race may be said to possess the whole cen-
tral portion of Borneo extending towards either
coast as far as the Malay possessions. They are, how-
ever, entirely independent, paying neither tax nor
nominal allegiance to the sovereigns either of Borneo
Proper or Koti. They are not a tattooed race, nor
do they use the sumpitan, their only arms being
the long spear and shield ; the women, however, are
generally tattooed from the waist to the elbow only.
They are represented as powerful, just, hospitable,
and not unfriendly to strangers ; but, at the same
time, it is not concealed that they are severe in
punishing faults, or culpable breaches of their
customs, more especially with regard to their wo-
men. The Malays do not much frequent their
country, on this account ; and many lose their lives
in so doing, quite forgetting that they are amongst
a high-minded and powerful nation, and not in the

vol. r. 8

Digged by Google

ms. brooke's journal. [Cbu-. xvi.

country of the subdued and oppressed Dyaks. As
the mode of expression of a native conveys his
ideas better than any general description could do,
I shall here use the words of my informant, Pang-
lima Dallam. I asked if they would permit a white
man to enter their territory ? he replied, " Cer-
tainly, and would be glad to see him, provided he
did them no injury." Have they a sufficiency of
food ? " Yes ; they have plenty of food and are
rich, and you would never know want amongst
them, for they give every body that comes to their
country as much rice, fowls, goats, and pigs aa
they can eat. Camphor and bees' wax abound in
their land ; indeed, most of those articles find their
way from thence to the coast. They trade parti-
cularly in all kinds of cloth, gongs, brass, wares,
&c, but salt and tobacco have no sale with them.
They are very numerous, and, whilst travelling
among them, each night you rest with a different
tribe."

To return to my narrative, however : Panglima
Dallam assured me he would answer for my life if
I would accompany him ; and I only wish I could
find an opportunity, but at present I cannot leave
my post of duty.

The Kayans marry only one wife, and their dead
are placed in coffins and hung on high trees.

From the interior of Bintulu or Barram to the
Pontiana river is fifteen days' journey, the ascent
from the mouth of the stream to the mountain
occupying ten days. Travelling amongst the

Digged by Google

Chap. XVL] IBTEBIOK TRIBES. 259

Kayans for ten days across the country from the 1841 -
Pontiana, brings you to the river of Banjar-Mas-
ain : the aspect of the country is represented to be
woody, but dry, with mountains or hills. From
the Banjar-Massin to the interior of the Koti
is ten days' journey likewise ; there are some lakes,
but not large, as in half a day you may pull in a
canoe from one end to the other. The Panglima
has travelled across the country many times, and
often lived for a considerable while amongst the
Kayans. From the interior of Koti river you may
journey northwards to the settlements of the Ma-
gindanoa on the north-east coast. There are other
rivers of smaller note, but their exact positions I
cannot ascertain.

On the whole, I think I can trust this man's ac-
count : it is derived from an eye-witness, and has
been confirmed by other eye-witnesses, and from a
people far more truthful than the Malays.

The regularly tattooed people do not appear to
be so numerous as I conceived. They are said,
however, to abound on the Rejang river *, and are
there called Panong and Kanowit*, and use the
sumpitan ; but as the several tribes of Dyaks, and
the still more numerous Kayans, are not tattooed,
and do not use the sumpitan, the custom appears
not to be so general as 1 had imagined.

Pari is situated in the Kayan country, and a great

* I visited this river and these people in June, 1846, five years
after this description, and found the Kanowit* aa here described. —

Digged by Google

260 MB. BROOKE'S JOVBNAL. [Chat. XVI.

iMi. dep6t for trade. Between this and Banjar-Massin
river are the following tribes of the same race —
Lapar Timl, Lugiit, Gahat, Daruhinow; and be-
tween the Banjar-Massin and the Koti, the Kajang-
Twan, Bakar, Poalim, cum multis aliis.

These people do not make petty excursions for
the sake of obtaining heads, as do the Sarebas and
Sakarrans, but attack countries in a wholesale way,
so that their irruptions would be easier to repell than
the sly, insidious attacks of the Dyaks. From what I
have myself seen of these warriors, I am certainly
impressed with a conviction of their superiority in
character and conduct to the Malays and Dyaks.
In stature they are of moderate height, but stout-
limbed and fleshy. Their complexion is fairer
than any of the other tribes ; their faces round,
fat, and good-tempered ; eyes small and well-
formed, and mouth expressive ; and altogether,
with very few characteristics of the Malays, cer-
tainly much better-looking men. This tribe of
Kayans is moreover described as being much more
expert with the sumpitan than other Dyaks ; their
usual mode of warfare being rather to lie in wait
for their enemy in the jungle, or to track him
through the bush. To the sumpitan a spear is at-
tached. The arrows are contained in a bamboo
case hung at their side, and at the bottom of this
quiver is the poison of the upas. The arrow is a
thin piece of wood, sharp-pointed, and inserted in
a socket, made of the pith of a tree, which fits the
tube of the blow-pipe. They carry a small ca-

Dignbd by Google

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Chap. XVI.] THE SUMPITAN. 261

labash for these arrow-heads, and on going into 1841 -
action prepare a sufficient number, and fresh dip the
points in the poison, as its deadly influence does
not continue long. When they face an enemy,
the box at the side is open; and, whether ad-
vancing or retreating, they fire the poisoned
missiles with great rapidity and precision : some
hold four spare arrows between the fingers of the
hand which grasps the sumpitan, whilst others take
their side-case.

In advancing, the sumpitan is carried at the mouth
and elevated, and they will discharge at least five
arrows to one compared with a musket. Beyond
a distance of twenty yards they do not shoot with
certainty from the lightness of the arrow, but I
have frequently seen them practise at the above-
named range, and they usually struck near the
centre of the crown, none of the arrows being more
than an inch or two from each other. On a calm
day, the utmost range may be a hundred yards.
The poison is considered deadly by the Kayans,
but the Malays do not agree in this belief. My
own impression is, that the consequences resulting
from a wound are greatly exaggerated, though if
the poison be fresh, death may occasionally ensue ;
but decidedly, when it has been exposed for any
time to the air it loses its virulence. My servant
was wounded in the foot by an arrow which had
been kept about two months; blood flowed from
the puncture, which caused me considerable alarm ;
but sulphuric acid being applied in conjunction

Digged by Google

262 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XVI.

1841. -with caustic, directly afterwards, he felt no bad
effects whatever.

All the tribes who use the sumpitan, from their
peculiar mode of fighting, and the dread of the
weapon, are called Nata Hutan, or "Wood devils."
Besides the sumpitan they also wear the *' llang," or
sword, which is carved at the handle in the rude
shape of a horse's head, and ornamented with tufts
of hair, red or black ; the blades of these swords
are remarkable, one side being convex, the other
concave. They are usually very short, but of good
metal and fine edge. These warriors wear coats of
deer hide, and caps of basket-work, some fantas-
tically decorated; and a shield hung over their
backs of stout wood, in addition to the weapons al-
ready mentioned, forms their equipment for service.
The few who served in the civil war were con-
sidered the " flower of my army," and it is really
curious to witness their movements when the order
is given to go out to skirmish, — one by one, with
a quick pace, yet steady and silent tread, they glide
into the bushes or long grass, gain the narrow paths,
and gradually disappear in the thickest jungle.

Of their religion I could learn but little : some
of them have been converted to the faith of Islam,
and the rest appeared ignorant and quite indifferent
on the subject, whenever I endeavoured to converse
upon it. Like the Dyaks, however, they marry
but one wife, are partial to pork, and have scarcely
any prejudices. Their manners are quiet, staid,
and not in the slightest degree importunate or in-

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] MAHHEBS AND CUSTOMS.

trusive, and their character certainly more ener-
getic than any other class of the aborigines.

Their musical instrument is a bunch of reeds
stuck into a calabash, with three or four notes : the
sound is soft and pretty, and equal to any rude in-
strument of the kind. Their dance is performed
with the sword and shield, and consists of going
through their mode of attack and defence : it is
quite different from tie dance common to Sarawak,
or that of the Hlanuns, though all alike represent a
mimic warfare. I mention these brief particulars
of this highly interesting people, as they are very
numerous and of great antiquity, and their history
has been, hitherto, a sealed book to Europeans.
If the mass are equal to the specimens I have my-
self seen and examined, I declare them at once to be
a nation deserving of attention and commanding
respect : and what a field is here for research !

Their character for honesty and a faithful dis-
charge of their engagements may be gathered from
the system adopted in all mercantile transactions.
A trader from the coast, whether Malay or
Dyak, when he ascends the river with his small
boats, stops at an assigned place, and sends word of
his arrival, with a description of his tribe, object,
and cargo, to the chief, who orders a party of his
people to bring the goods to the village; and
though this may be four or five days' journey in
the interior, it is done without the slightest article
being pilfered. The merchant entirely loses sight
of his wares, which are carried off by the Kayans,

lignbcd by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [chap, zvi.

and he is himself guided by a body of the superior
members of the tribe. On arriving at the village,
a house is allotted for his use, his merchandise is
placed carefully in the same habitation, every
civility is shown him, and he incurs no expense.
After a few days' residence, he moves his goods to
the mansion of the chief, the tribe assemble, and all
the packages are opened. Presents are made to
the head men, who likewise have the right, accord-
ing to their precedence, of choosing what they
please to purchase ; the price is afterwards fixed,
and engagements made for payment in bees' wax,
camphor, or birds' nests. The purchasers then
scatter themselves in the woods to seek for these
articles, and the merchant remains in his house
feeding on the fat of the land for a month or six
weeks, when the engagements being fulfilled, he
departs a richer man than he came ; his acquired
property being safely carried to his boats by the
same people. If he has a large cargo and pro-
poses going farther into the interior, they carry his
goods to the boundary of the next tribe, and he re-
turns at the period agreed upon to receive the
price of his commodities.

The Malays assured me that these adventures
were so profitable, that after giving one third of
the cargo to the chiefs, there was a very handsome
return on the rest ; and what a Malay calls a hand-
some profit cannot be less than 300 per cent. I
have already given an account of the usual mode
of interment amongst the Kayans generally, but

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] MODE OF BURIAL.

there is a particular tribe, whose mode of burial is
so curious, that I will describe it more fully.

When a man dies, his friends and relatives meet
in the house, and take their usual seats around the
room. The deceased is then brought in attired in
his best clothes, with a cigar fixed in the mouth, and
being placed on the mat in the same manner as he
would have arranged himself when alive, his betel-
box is set by his side. The friends go through
the forms of conversing with him, and offer him
the best advice concerning his future proceedings,
and then, having feasted, the body is deposited in
a large coffin, and kept in the house for several
months. At the end of this time, the friends and
relatives again assemble, and the coffin is taken
out, and deposited on a high pole or tree in a par-
ticular direction. The deceased, during the pro-
cession, is repeatedly cautioned to beware he does
not lose his way : — " Follow the road (they say)
till it branches in three directions ; be careful in
selecting the centre path, for this will conduct you
to your own country, whilst that to the right leads
to Borneo, and that to the left to the sea."

After many similar cautions, the coffin is depo-
sited, and the assembly separates. This tribe of
Kayans are described as exceedingly wild, but their
superstitions go, at any rate, to prove a belief in a
future state. Oh that the banner of civilisation
could be unfurled amongst them ! If the resources
of their country could be developed by a more en-
larged trade, — if wants could be created and their

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cbap. XVI.

condition ameliorated, — if the disgusting feature of
head-mintiDg could be softened down to its gra-
dual abolition, it would be a proud reflection for
any man. It is a task to which I would willingly
devote my life, my energies, and my fortune ; but
I fear the resources requisite are greater than I
can, unassisted, command. How many, with wealth
superfluous, might enter upon this task with better
prospect of success, and with comparative ease of
mind, which narrow means — the res angusta —
will not allow ; but still, as I am here, I feel, as it
were, the trumpet-call of Providence leading me
on as an instrument ; and if partial success attend
me — if I become but the pioneer — if others are
doomed to reap where I have sown, — still will I
be content with this. That such an undertaking
is meritorious and innocent, all must allow; but
all cannot know the thorns in the path, the un-
ceasing troubles which attend the endeavour — the
temper, fortitude, and carelessness of life which it
requires ; to say nothing of the toils and frequent
disappointments which it constantly entails.

Be it so : I will work on, and if I fail — if I cur-
tail my future means — I shall have the satisfactory
reflection of a high duty performed, the fruit of
which must, some time or other, become apparent ;
and reflection and conscience will help to support
roe in failure, and whisper that my countrymen
will one day appreciate my labour and my sacrifices.

September 1. — It may appear incomprehen-
sible that I should, for a moment, have put implicit

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] REFLECTIONS.

faith in the shallow promises of the native chiefs ;
and I will therefore state that I undertook an en-
terprise which I knew full well required both time
and money, from the conviction that, if only enabled
to maintain my position as resident in the country
for a few months, with free intercourse with the
people at large, my influence over these semi-bar-
barians would imperceptibly increase, and that I
should eventually enlist the feeling of the mass of
the population on my side, and, thus backed, be
ready to seize upon the first favourable opening to
enforce my claims upon the government of the
province. My hopes, hitherto, had certainly failed
at the point where I thought myself most secure,
namely, in the personal regard felt towards me by
the rajah, and I am still at a loss to account for
his conduct, since I really do not give him credit for
a head long enough to deceive and cheat me on
such an extended scheme. It is contrary to the
operations of the native mind, and in point of money
matters the pangeran has shown no greediness,
though I believe him to be both extravagant and
careless. My greatest enemy I know to be Makota,
who, with a few other leading men, resists all my
attempts to induce Muda Hassim to fulfil his en-
gagements. They are well aware that were the
government of the country once legally placed in
my hands under the seal of the sultan's uncle,
I should commence the work of reformation, and no
longer permit their misdeeds and tyrannical be-
haviour towards the Dyaks. My means are, indeed,

d by Google

mr. bkooke's journal. [Chat. xvi.

very limited, but with the funds from the sale of
the yacht I shall have ready money sufficient to lay
out in improvements, and in giving employment
to labourers. So I will continue the battle with
the hope of shortly clearing the way : the case is
not yet desperate.

Whatever may be the result, I am determined to
go forward, and, sooner than recede, will, as a last
extremity, try my strength against Der Makota
and the enemies of civilisation. Meanwhile, the
Honourable Company's steamer, Diana, has arrived
from Singapore, sent here by the governor to com-
municate with me, and then to proceed to the ca-
pital to demand the release of the wrecked British
subjects. I have myself received a letter from Mr,
Gill, chief mate of the Sultana, informing me of the
total destruction of that vessel by lightning in the
China seas, and of the safe arrival of part of the
officers, passengers, and crew at Brunei where they
were made prisoners by the sultan, and cruelly
treated. Mr. Gill and a few others, for the purpose
of procuring ransom money, had received permis-
sion to make the voyage to Singapore, and after
many narrow escapes had reached Sirhassan in the
South Natuna Islands, where they were detained
by the approach of a fleet of lllanun pirates cruis-
ing in the offing.

October 1. — Events of great importance have
occurred during the last month. 1 will shortly
narrate them. The advent of the Royalist and
Swift and a second visit from the Diana, on her

11, Google

Chap. XVI.] DIFFICULTIES CONTENDED WITH.

return from Brane* with the shipwrecked crew of
the Sultana, strengthened my position, as it gave
evidence that the Singapore authorities were on
the alert, and otherwise did good to my cause by
creating an impression amongst the natives of my
power and influence with the governor of the Straits'
settlements. Now, then, was my time for pushing
measures to extremity against my subtle enemy
the arch-intriguer Makota. I had previously made
several strong remonstrances, and urged for an
answer to a letter I had addressed to Muda Hassim,
in which I had recapitulated in detail the whole
particulars of our agreement, concluding by a po-
sitive demand either to allow me to retrace my
steps by repayment of the sums which he had in-
duced me to expend, or to confer upon me the grant
of the government of the country according to his
repeated promises ; and I ended by stating that if
he would not do either one or the other, I must
find means to right myself. Thus did I, for the first
time since my arrival in the land, present anything
in the shape of a menace before the rajah, my
former remonstrances only going so far as to
threaten to take away my own person and vessels
from the river.

My ultimatum had gone forth, and I prepared
for active measures; hut the conduct of Makota
himself soon brought affairs to a crisis : he was
determined at all hazards to drive me from the
country, and to involve Muda Hassim in such pe-
cuniary difficulties as effectually to prevent his

Digged by Google

MB. brooke's journal. [Cur. xvi.

payment of my debt. Makota dared not openly
attack me, bo he endeavoured to tamper with my
servants, and, by threats and repeated acts of
oppression, actually prevented all persons who
usually visited me either on board or on shore
from coming near me. His spies watched every
party supposed to be well inclined towards me, and
they were punished without reason or mercy, and
finally, some villain had been induced to attempt to
poison my interpreter by putting arsenic in his
rice. The agents of Makota were pointed out as
the guilty parties. I laid my depositions before
the rajah, and demanded an investigation. My de-
mand, as usual, was met by vague promises of future
inquiry, and Makota seemed to triumph in the
success of his villany ; but the moment for action
had now arrived. My conscience told me that I
was bound no longer to submit to such injustice,
and I was resolved to test the strength of our re-
spective parties. Repairing on board the yacht, I
mustered my people, explained my intentions and
mode of operation, and having loaded the vessel's
guns with grape and canister, and brought her
broadside to bear, I proceeded on shore with a
detachment fully armed, and, taking up a position
at the entrance of the rajah's palace, demanded
and obtained an immediate audience. In a few
words I pointed out the villany of Makota, his
tyranny and oppression of all classes, and my de-
termination to attack him by force, and drive him
from the country. I explained to the rajah that

lignbcd by Google

Chap. XVI.] PROCLAIMED RAJAH, 271

several chiefs and a large body of Siniawan Dyaks 18 '"-
were ready to assist me, and that the only course
left to prevent bloodshed was immediately to pro-
claim me governor of the country.

This unmistakeable demonstration had the de-
sired effect : a resistance, indeed, on his part would
have been useless, for the Chinese population and
the inhabitants of the town generally remained per-
fectly neutral. None joined the party of Macota,
and his paid followers were not more than twenty
in number. Under the guns of the Royalist, and
with a small body of men to protect me personally,
and the great majority of all classes with me, it is
not surprising that the negotiation proceeded rapidly
to a favourable issue. The document was quickly
drawn up, sealed, signed, and delivered; and on the
24th of September, 1841, I was declared Rajah and
Governor of Sarawak amidst the roar of cannon,
and a general display of flags and banners from the
shore and boats on the river.

December 31. — From the time of my ac- Dm. si.
cession to the government to this date, I have re-
mained quietly at Sarawak, gradually informing
myself of the capabilities and requirements of the
country. What I have already been enabled to do
in the work of improving the condition of the
Dyaks, is consolatory. I have obtained the release
of the wives and children of the Siniawans, more
than a hundred in number, so long detained by the
rajah, and I have arrested a party in the interior
whilst engaged in plundering sago from an inof-

Dignbd by Google

MB. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XVI.

fensive tribe; and even should my influence in the
country at large effect nothing beyond saving the
lives and property of the weak and persecuted, I
shall yet have been well employed, and may pillow
my head with this reflection, when the mere gifts
of fortune would not afford the same feeling of
pure gratification. I have also succeeded in opening
a regular court of justice, at which I preside,
assisted by the rajah's brothers and by the Patingi
and Tumongong, and my arrangements appear to
give satisfaction to the natives.

Difficulty following upon difficulty ; the dread
of pecuniary failure ; the doubt of receiving sup-
port or assistance : this and much more presents
itself to my mind. But I have tied myself to
the stake : I have heaped faggots around me.
I stand upon a cask of gunpowder, and if others
bring the torch I shall not shrink. I feel within
me the firm, unchangeable conviction of doing
right, which nothing can shake. I see the benefits
I am conferring. The oppressed, the wretched,
the enslaved, have found in me their only protector.
They now hope and trust ; and they shall not be
disappointed whilst I have life to uphold them.
God has so far used me as a humble instrument
of his hidden Providence ; and whatever be the
result, whatever my fate, I know the example will
not be thrown away. I know it tends to a good
end in His own time. He can open a path for me
through all difficulties, raise me up friends who
will share with me in the task, awaken the energies

Digged by Google

Chap. XVI.] REFLECTIONS.

of the great and powerful, so that they may protect
this unhappy people. I trust it may be so : but if *
God wills otherwise} if the time be not yet arrived;
if it be the Almighty's will that the flickering taper
shall be extinguished ere it be replaced by a steady
beacon, I submit, in the firm and humble assurance
that His ways are better than my ways, and that
the term of my life is better in His hands than in
my own.

, Google

ME. BROOKE 8 JOURNAL.

AKfUTVAL OP DESPATCHES. — CONSmERATIONS OH THE 1

OF THE SETTLEMENT. CODE OF LAWS FOR THE PRO VENUE- —

BANTAH COTTAGE.— PLANTATIONS. — DIAMOND MIMES. 8UNTAH

RIVES. — METHOD OF WORKING THE DIAMOND MINES. — HAJJI

[BBAHaL — WARM SPRING. THE EAPDLLAH TREE. — NATURAL

HISTORY OF THE ARA TREE. — RELATIVE POSITIONS OF THE
DUTCH, THE BULTAN OF SAMBAS, AND THE CHDXESE. — CHA-
RACTER OF THE CHINESE. DIVISIONS OF THE POPOLATIQN, —

STATISTICS OF POPULATION. ANNUAL PRODUCE OF THE WEST

COAST. — ■ (SUPPLY OF GOLD.— ■ COMPANIES FOR TRADE. — AGREE-
MENT CONCERNING THE ANTIMONY ORE. — CONFERENCE. —

OPPOSITE ARGUMENTS. — END OF CONFERENCE. VISIT FROM

THE PANGAWA OF SUKDA. TRADITIONS OF THE CREATION

OF HAN. — DTAKB FORMERLY SURJXCT TO JAVA. — DISPOSAL
OF THE DEAD.

February^. — The N.E. monsoon is blowing with
great violence, and a few days ago the Royalist
came in from Singapore, having had a narrow
escape from foundering amidst, the breakers, which
extended completely across the fair channel ; and
Captain Hart is of opinion, that at this season,
when the heavy periodical rains cause strong
freshes to come down the river, the passage may
occasionally be quite impracticable.

The Royalist brought the captain and the second
mate of the Viscount Melbourne, a large ship
wrecked on the Luconia Shoal, hoping to receive
intelligence of the rest of the officers and crew.

By this fortunate opportunity I received letters
of the highest interest It appears that the Bengal

Digged by Google

Chap. XVII.] ABB1VAL OF DESPATCHES.

Government has determine! to resent the conduct of
the sultan of Borneo and his profligate pangerans
to the crew of the Sultana, and at the same time
to carry other measures into effect, either by means
of a treaty, or otherwise to get possession of the
recently discovered coal near the capital. The
necessity for some such step as this has long
been apparent, to prevent the north-west coast
from falling a prey to foreign encroachment. The
increasing interest in China, owing to the war in
that quarter, has induced the Government to act ;
and, foreseeing the possibility of such an event, I
some months ago suggested to N the ad-
vantage of raising Muda Hassim to the throne of
Borneo, or placing him, as Bandharra, in a position
to govern the sultan ; and it now seems that
Mr. — . is rather inclined to adopt this sug-
gestion, he having inquired how far such a step
would accord with my views. En passant, I must
observe that the elevation of Muda Hassim is the
only feasible way of managing Borneo, unless they
propose taking possession of it altogether, for he is,
and always has been, partial to the English, is
pretty honest for a native, decidedly humane, and
not wanting in liberal views. However, certain it
is, that Mr. comes in the Calliope, twenty-
eight, with one or two steamers, and I have re-
commended him to touch here before proceeding to
Borneo. How this may affect me it is difficult to
say, but I can see nothing but good that can arise ;
and as it appears that this gentleman is disposed, or

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XVII.

is commanded, to ascertain my views, it is probable
the Government will recognise my young Carthage.

The paper which I have forwarded home could not
arrive at a more opportune season, as it will be put
into the minister's hands at the same time with the
advices from the government of Bengal regarding
Borneo; and certainly, the more I reflect upon my
position here, the more satisfied I feel that I can lay
open the island if the government will permit me :
but individual resources are not equal to these
plans, without public assistance; therefore, if no
spirit be moving in the good public, I must do as I
best can, and not as I could wish. I must yield to
circumstances. I am both happy, and moderately
comfortable. My mind is clear of all reproach, and
I am conscious of being ruled neither by sordid
motives, nor a desire of personal advantage. How
can Z be other than happy when I know that I am
of service to a most unhappy race, and that I am
giving an impulse to this fine island, which must,
now or some time hence, approximate it to the rest
of the world, instead of leaving it hermetically
sealed, with its millions of inhabitants, as at pre-
sent. If, however, we do not take care, another
nation will have it; and then farewell hope, for
that nation's rule, with respect to natives, is a
palsy and death to British manufactures.

The climate here is delicious, and I enjoy ex-
cellent health. I have a library, and such a mul-
tifarious press of business, that my time is either
wholly filled or frittered away. The intelligence

11, Google

Chap. XVII.] CODE OF LAWS. 277

from the frontier is still heart-rending. Sheriff 1842.
Sahib of Sadong, and his brother, Sheriff Muller,
of Sakarran, seem allied for mischief. Incursions
into the territory of Sarawak have taken place, and
I hare written to inform them, that if attacks are
made on my country, I am resolved to retaliate.
At home there is little change. Muda Hassim is
indolent ; Makota false as ever ; and my native
ministers, the Patingi, Bandar, and Tumongong,
the tools of Makota ; but the majority of the people
are with me. Z have also issued the Code of Laws
for the province, which were printed in the Malayan
language at Singapore, and are as follow : —

" James Brooke, Esquire, governor (rajah) of the
country of Sarawak, makes known to all men the
following regulations : —

" 1. That murder, robbery, and other heinous
crimes, will be punished according to the ondong-
ondong (i. e. the written law of Borneo) ; and no
person committing such offences will escape, if,
after fair inquiry, he be proved guilty.

" 2. In order to ensure the good of the country,
all men, whether Malays, Chinese, or Dyaks, are
permitted to trade or labour according to their
pleasure and to enjoy their gains.

" 3. All roads will be open, that the inhabitants
at large may seek profit both by sea and land ; and
all boats coming from other parts are free to enter
the river and depart, without let or hinderance.

" 4. Trade, in all its branches, will be free, with
the exception of antimony-ore, which the Governor

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKB'S JOURNAL. [Ch*f. XVII.

holds in his own hands, but which no person is
" forced to work, and which will be paid for at a
proper price when obtained. The people are en-
couraged to trade and labour, and to enjoy the
profits which are to be made by fair and honest
dealing.

" 5. It is ordered, that no person going amongst
the Dyaks shall disturb them, or gain their goods
under false pretences. It must be clearly ex-
plained to the different Dyak tribes, that the re-
venue will be collected by the three Datus bearing
the seal of the Governor, and (except this yearly
demand from the government) they are to give
nothing to any other person ; nor are they obliged
to sell their goods except they please, and at their
own prices.

" 6. The Governor will shortly inquire into the
revenue, and fix it at a proper rate ; so that every
one may know certainly how much he has to con-
tribute yearly to support the government.

" 7. It will be necessary, likewise, to settle the
weights, measures, and money current in the
country, and to introduce doits, that the poor may
purchase food cheaply.

" 8. The Governor issues these commands, and
will enforce obedience to them ; and whilst he
gives all protection and assistance to the persons
who act rightly, he will not fail to punish those
who seek to disturb the public peace, or commit
crimes; and he warns all such persons to seek
their safety, and find some other country where

Digged by Google

Chip. XVII.] SANTAH COTTAGE. 279

they may be permitted to break the laws of God i»«-
and man."

The short experience I have already had in the
native habits and customs of administering justice,
ahows how difficult is the task before me.

To a people who, if they know what justice
is, have never obeyed its dictates, its impartial
administration in the mildest manner is a high
offence ; and amongst the pangerans, each desires
to claim an exemption for himself and his fol-
lowers, and takes little concern about the rest. At
all hazards, however, I am resolved to enforce
justice and to protect property ; and, whatever the
results may be, to leave them in God's hands.
"Without this there can be no stability and no
ultimate prosperity to the country, and my own
character would be that of a mere adventurer,
rather than what I hope it has been, is, and shall
be — that of a man of honour and integrity, who is
willing to sacrifice and Buffer in a good cause.

Santah Cottage, Feb. 4. — I am here on my first Feb. 4.
visit to my farm at this place. The cottage is
situated at the junction of the Santah stream with
the left hand river. The latter is highly pic-
turesque the whole way from Ledah Tanneh, with
high banks, clear water, occasional rocks, and a
varied and abundant vegetation, and at Santah are
all these characters, and the landscape one of
sylvan beauty. The small stream of Santah, how-
ever, is yet more beautiful in my eyes, rushing
along its pebbly bed, and overarched with melan*

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE'8 JOUBNAL. [Ckw. XVIL

choly boughs, that admit the tropical sun only in
flickering rays. The scene resembles the Dargle
in county Wicklow, but Ib far more luxuriant and
rich in foliage. Santah cottage stands on a slight
eminence on the river's edge, and the farm, as yet,
presents only about three acres, covered with
brushwood and huge trees felled, but numerous
fruit trees (Durien and Landseh) have been spared,
and still adorn the prospect. The cottage is about
twenty-four feet square, with two stories, and the
walls composed of split bamboo entwined, which
for the climate is sufficient defence, and not liable,
like the leaves, to accidents from fire. A small
nursery of a thousand nutmegs, some figs, &c., are
thriving very well, and I hope soon to add the
coffee tree, the areca palm or betel-nut, and the
cocoa-nut. A second cottage, which is to be called
Fairy Knoll, is in progress, with a cleared space as
big as Santah, and distant scarce half a mile ; and
at this second cottage is to be the diamond mine.

The Santah river is famous for its diamonds;
and I really believe that they abound, as the na-
tives formerly worked largely, making holes of
various depths close to the stream; and Patingi
Ali assured me, that he himself, with four men,
once got sixty diamonds, some of three and four
carets, in one day. The establishment at Santah
consists of Hajji Ibrahim, the Chinese Moham-
medan, already mentioned, two Banjar diamond
workers, and six labourers, and I have to-day
added four Chinese for the diamond trench. The

Digged by Google

Chap. XVII. j DIAMOND MINES.

natives, as I before said, work in holes on the
water's edge, and then sift the earth in search of "
the precious stones ; but it is a tedious and un-
certain process, and by no means likely to develop
the real resources of the land, and I have there-
fore resolved to work after the Chinese fashion, of
trenching the grounds with a run of water through
the trench. The course of the river is peculiarly
favourable for this operation. Three excavations
in the trench to receive the deposits of diamonds
and gold. The outlay will be about one hundred
pounds sterling. How the imagination fires at the
mention of a diamond mine — diamonds as big as
pigeon's eggs are present to the fancy, and each day
the dreaming possessor may expect wealth, and
each day be disappointed. My expectations are,
however, moderate, and I think reasonable, for I
propose to work the mine to support the plantation,
and if the diamonds only pay for the labour, a few
years will produce a revenue in coifee and nut-
megs, betel and cocoa-nuts, for the soil is ex-
cellent. The diamonds are found mixed in the
gravelly substratum, and there is likewise a small
quantity of gold to be obtained. The earth is
washed at the water's edge in large round wooden
pans, shaped like shields ; the diamonds are picked
out, and there remains a residue of black sand like
gunpowder and gold particles ; of course a good
deal of neatness and attention is requisite, and the
workers seem jealous and superstitious, dislike
noise, particularly laughter or merriment, as it is

Digged by Google

282 MR. BBOOEB'S JOURNAL. [Cur. XVII.

1842. highly offensive to the spirit who presides over the
" diamonds, and what is perhaps more important in
their eyes, the diamonds cannot be found if the
abode of quiet is disturbed by unholy mirth. It is
surprising to see people calling themselves Moham-
medans yielding to Pagan rites of presenting
offerings to the spirit of the mine — the Gnome
ting : fowls, rice, eggs, ciri, are weekly offered ;
but I was pleased to hear that they were sensible
enough to eat up these good things after the ob-
lations have been made. Ilajji Ibrahim, with the
most solemn face, requested me to give him an old
letter, and he engraved thereon some Chinese cha-
racters two inches long, which being translated,
signify, " Rajah Muda Hassim, James Brooke, and
Hajji Ibrahim, present their compliments to the
spirit, and request his permission to work at the
mine."

This Hajji is a most extraordinary character,
most industrious, with a tongue like an alarum-bell,
and the most blunt speech I ever heard eastward of
the Cape. Yet is he honest ? I have some hopes
he is moderately so, but it is not always the frank
and open manner that denotes the virtuous and
candid mind. "My honest, honest Iago," may
steal the diamonds if I look not after him; but
if he is cunning, he is master of his art, for his
language is the most unguarded and incautious,
and certainly dangerous to himself. Sitting near
two pirates one day, before many witnesses, he
exclaimed, that pirates and illauuns were the most

Digged by Google

Chap. XVII.] SAHTAH.

wicked of men, and ought all to be put to death.
To the pangerans, even those of ' high rank, he
holds the same language, and pronounces the
Malays fit for nothing but eating and sleeping. In
fact he is an original, — my diamond ; and cer-
tainly, if I can trust one word of what be says, and
if he perform his promises, I shall have no reason
to complain.

On the whole I am delighted with San tab. ; it is
picturesque and beautiful, and a place where I can
retire with pleasure to enjoy solitude and nature.

One particular I had nearly forgotten to men-
tion, which is a warm spring in a creek, not far
from Fairy Knoll: the water is lukewarm. I
have not yet tried it by the thermometer ; but I
could perceive no medicinal property in taste or
smell : if any thing, it is slightly chalybeate. There
is a tree here which the natives call Kapiillah, a
hard wood, with a most fragrant smell, and the
essential oil of which would be equal to the far-
famed Kayu Putih. The natives use it for ship-
building, and I conceive it might be employed
advantageously in many ways.

Near the cottage a large ara-tree (kayu-ara) has
been felled, and close by stands a Durien-tree, two
parts of the trunk of which are entwined by a large
creeper, or rather by a succession of creepers,
which are the commencement of the ara tree ! !
The ara is often not less than fourteen feet in cir-
cumference (and it is probable that it attains to a
much larger size). Its growth is so extraordinary,

Digged by Google

284 hb. Brooke's journal, [cmp. xvn.

1842. that I shall here take the trouble to describe it, ac-
cording to the native account, modified by my own
observation. The ara is first a creeper, which de-
scends from the top of another tree, where it is
deposited in the excrement of birds. It adheres
moat closely to the stem of the tree to which it at-
taches itself, and growing downwards, takes root,
and in time, by its increase, or by a succession of
creepers, covers and encases the original tree, which
perishes in its embrace. The ara afterwards in-
creases in size, throws out branches, and becomes a
fine tree, bearing a fruit which is a favourite food
of pigeons and other birds. When I first heard
this native account I was incredulous, and only
became convinced on ascertaining that it is sub-
stantially true. *

The partial case on the Durien tree and others,
the deadly adherence of the creeper, the irregu-
larity of the large ara, as if formed by a succession
of layers or twists, and the sponginess of the wood,
are all proofs, in a degree: to add 'to these, that
the large ara is hollow within, where the trunk to
which it originally clung has died and decayed, and
that the wood of the tree and the creeper, the bark
and the juice are precisely similar, and this is enough
for conviction. I do not remember any account of
this tree or its peculiar mode of growth ; and the
only points on which I am not satisfied, are its de-
scent from above, and whether the ara is originally
one creeper, which gradually ramifies and takes

* The ara is a species of Ficue.

Digged by Google

Chap. XVII.] CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE.

fresh root, or whether it requires a number to
form the trunk. These points I leave for further
inquiry.

I will here make a brief reference to the relative
position of the Dutch, the sultan of Sambas, and
the Chinese. The Dutch hold Sambas by a com-
mercial treaty, and monopolise salt, whilst the
sultan monopolises opium. All British manufac-
tures, with guns, muskets, and gunpowder, are pro-
hibited. The sultan enjoys the opium monopoly,
paying a portion to his partners: he is rich, and
as unprincipled as the natives in general. Tbe
pangerans and their followers of Sambas are very
numerous, and very dissolute. Robberies are fre-
quent, and the state of society abandoned ; and rob-
bers are employed by the better class, or at any rate
concealed in their houses. Opium smoking is very
common, together with gambling, and the other
vices of the Malay character. The unhappy Dyaks,
except such as are under the protection of the Chi-
nese, are subject to the depredations of this evil gang.

The Chinese, originally a slavish and ignorant
body of artisan emigrants from their own country,
have here risen to power, and almost to independent
government. A portion of the Dyaks are subject
to them from custom ; and the jurisdiction of the
countries where they reside is entirely in their
hands. Chinese, Malays, and Dyaks are put to
death, or otherwise punished for crimes committed
in the province. It is surprising to see a European
nation submitting with patience and tameness to

Digged by Google

ur. brooke's journal. [Chu. xvii.

an imperinm in iinperio, and allowing all manner
of extortion and injustice to be perpetrated in a
territory, the native prince of which is under their
protection. This independence the Chinese cany
so far as to war amongst themselves, with the sul-
tan, and with the Dutch, almost as a sovereign
people. In the contest with the Dutch, the Chinese,
though they finally agreed to pay one real head-
tax, gained the advantage of turning all the resi-
dents out of their country ; and a Dutchman now,
probably, dares not venture within their limits.

The Chinese have many good points : they are
active, industrious, and commercial ; and when we
consider their ignorance, and the badness of the
government under which they have lived, deprived
of trade, and subject to all the evils of extortion
and monopoly, we are apt to give them much credit
for the good qualities they display.

I here propose giving a brief account of the Chi-
nese of Sambas. They were formerly divided into
the following kunsis or companies, each independent
of the other, yet united by habits and language.
They state themselves that the Chinese have been
in Sambas for upwards of a century. They were di-
vided some years ago into eight kunsis : the eighth
is an exceedingly small one.

1st. Tykong, at Montradok.

2d. San Ti Qu, or Sipang.

3d. Sinbok.

4th. Hammu-i.

5th. Ship duk fun.

Digged by Google

Catr. XVII.] DIVISIOH Or THE POPULATION.

6th. Ship mu fun.

7th. Manfo.

8th. Lintian.

These kunsis were originally all settled in the
neighbourhood of Montradok, and as long as gold
was plentiful no disputes arose amongst them, while
their condition was most flourishing. My in-
formants state that five hundred taels (which is
832 grains per tael or bunkal) was the minimum
produce of a parit or trench.* The following data
are corrected from Sir Stamford Raffles' note in
vol. i. p. 265. History of Java, It is there reckoned
that the working population is 32,000, and the
medium produce per man 6^ bunkals per annum,
and the price of the gold 18 Spanish dollars. The
first of these items, from all my information, is
rated low ; the second, I take to be just ; the third,
far below what it ought to be. I shall reckon it,
therefore, 35,000 men, 6£ bunkals per annum per
man, and 22 Spanish dollars as the value of the
gold per bunkal ; which will give as follows : —

2)35,000(17,500

210,000
17,500

227,500 taels or bunkals.
22

5,005,000 Spanish dollars, or 1,237,500 pounds sterling.
* Which is S66| ounces.

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKB'S JO0ENAL. [Cn*r. XTO.

By an estimate made in the year 1812, the annual
' produce on the west coast of Borneo was reckoned
at 4, 744,000 S, which, if it mean Sambas only, in its
moat palmy days, is correct according to my in-
formation. A great part of this sum, as remarked
by Sir S. RaffleB, found its way to China, and a
large portion was expended in the country to sup-
port the exorbitant charges imposed by the Dutch
and the Sultan.

With such a supply of gold it was easy to sup-
port the charge of a rapacious government, the
weight of taxation, and the restrictions of trade ;
but for some years past, gold has been getting
scarce, and the good understanding of the various
kunsis soon gave way to jealousy and hostilities.
After bearing the brunt of a war with the Dutch,
the three kunsis of San Tl Qu, Ship Duk Fun, and
Ship Mu Fun, attacked the parent company of
Tykong, and were defeated. Ship Duk Fun re-
treated to Land ah, in the territory of Pontiana, and
the Manfo kunsi retired without disturbance to the
same place. San Tl Qu and Ship Mu Fun were
allowed by Tykong to settle at Sipang. This war
occurred, as far as I can learn, about twelve or
fourteen years since. About five years ago, Ty-
kong was again involved in disputes with Sinbok
and Hammu-i, and the latter two being unable to
maintain their ground by force, Hammu-i retired
to the interior of Pontiana, and the Sinbok has
since been broken and scattered.

This is the brief history of the Sambas kunsis,

Digged by Google

Chip.XYIL] POPULATION OF SAMBAS.

■which, from eight, are now reduced to four, viz.
Tykong, San Ti Qu, Ship Mu Fun, and Lintean ;
and of these four, Tykong is the only one that is
powerful. These kunsis are all democratic in con-
stitution, and the six managers of affairs are con-
stantly changed by the public voice, their term of
office rarely exceeding four months. The numbers
which have emigrated from Sambas to Pontiana,
will not affect the general estimate I have given
of 150,000 as the amount of the population ; nor,
indeed, does it far exceed Sir Stamford Raffles' cal-
culation, who computed 32,000 miners at Sambas
some twenty years ago. Add to these cultivators,
women, traders, emigrants, and the increase of the
population, and we cannot reckon the total as much
less than 100,000 at Sambas. The proportion of
women to men is small, consisting merely of the
mixed breed, -who have been born in the colony.

March 13. 1842. — I have now to relate a con- J
ference with the Chinese of the San Ti Qu kunsi, who
formerly made an agreement with Muda Hassim, to
the effect that they were to work gold or ore in
the rigkt-hand river. Since my arrival I have been
anxious to discover their real designs, but have
only now succeeded. I could Bee that they were
very jealous of any other kunsi being brought here,
and, if sufficiently strong, would resist its location
in the province. I was resolved, however, on
the step, for this simple reason, viz. that one
company requires to be counterpoised by another,
both for the purpose of government and trade.

VOL. i. u

Digged by Google

290 MB. brooke's joubnal. [Cut. xvn.

1842. One company would bood take the bit in its
own mouth, and run away with an infant go-
vernment on its hack, for there is no combined
interest to oppose them if once established. At
present, they are few in number, poor, and de-
pendent on me for food and every necessary.
These reasons had long convinced me of the ne-
cessity of the step ; but I might have postponed
it for a few months, from the pressure of other
business and a reluctance to embroil myself with
a body who would support me in every other
case, had not a piece of treachery on their part
more fully opened my eyes to the urgency of the
occasion.

The agreement with Muda Hassim allowed them
the right-hand river, and the permission to work
the ore, but forbade the exportation of it without
leave, and made no mention of any exclusive right
in the San Tl Qu kunsi to close the country against
other Chinese. This treaty or agreement was
written in Malay, translated into Chinese, and duly
signed by the kunsi and the Rajah. This was all
done before my coming ; but the agreement had
not been long in my hands, when, some suspicion
arising, I got the Chinese translation read by a
disinterested party, and found that, instead of
being a translation, it declared the gift of the
entire country, " whether far or near," to the San
Ti Qu kunsi, and that no other kunsi could settle
in the country! Secondly, that none but the San
Ti Qu kunsi could work the antimony ore ! !

Digged by Google

Cha*. XVII.] CONFERENCE WITH THE CHINESE.

The Rajah, ■when the plot was explained to him,
was horrified and indignant ; and, without the
presence of mind and judgment of white men, it
was a most likely circumstance to have produced a
massacre of the Chinese, in which case the world
would have been edified by tie report of Malay
blood-thirstineBS, but would have continued ig-
norant of the deceit and treachery on the part of
the Chinese, which occasioned it (this en passant).
We had a great conference : all the Chinese head
men, with a crowd of inferiors ; four or five bro-
thers of the Rajah, with their followers ; a few Si-
niawans, particularly Patingi Gifforu; and lastly,
myself and my attendants. On opening the con-
ference (which was held in Malay and translated
into Chinese), I explained how despicably low their
name would become from such a deceit, hoped that
it had not been intentional, called upon them as
honest men to disavow it, and concluded by pro-
pounding to them a fresh agreement. They, in
reply, accepted the terms I proposed, expressed
their willingness to receive any number of men as
additions to their body of the San Ti Qu kunsi, and
called upon me to declare whether it was my
intention to place any, and what, kunsi here. I
declared that the Sinbok kunsi was to be located
immediately on the left-hand river. To this they
would on no terms agree! urging their prior
claims, the assistance given by them in the war ;
and that others should come and eat the grain
which they had planted, they exclaimed against as

Digged by Google

ME. BHOOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Chaf-XTO.

most unjust. I, on the contrary, argued that a
specified portion of land had been consigned to
them, and that they could not pretend to extend
their claims to any other part of the country ; that
their profits would not be less on their ground
because others worked other ground; and that, so
far from eating grain of their planting, the Sin-
bok had yet to plant the grain, and each would
eat only what was planted by themselves. Lastly,
that whatever claims they had from their former
services were invalidated by the deceit they had
practised ; and if they did not accept the terms
offered, and freely allow the right of the Rajah to
place the Sinbok, and guarantee that they would
behave peaceably towards them, they must leave
the country, and return to Sambas.

This was the pith of the argument the first
night, when they broke up, about two o'clock, de-
claring it could never be ; whilst I declared it must
be, and the day after to-morrow. The next even-
ing but one they came reinforced by all the head
men, whom they had called from their settlements,
and our party had many listeners. They opened
the conference by declaring their willingness to
accept the new agreement, their obedience to the
Rajah and myself, their entire good faith and pure
intentions ; that they would consent to the Sinbok
dwelling here, but requested, in consideration of
their prior claims, that they might be called Sam
Sinbok (Sam Sinbok implies that they are de-
pendants or slave's). I was prepared for this re-

Dignbd by Google

Chip. XVII.] CONFBBBNCE WITH THE CHINESE. 293

quest, as it had been partially spoken of the night l84g -
before, and, therefore, met the demand with a
negative. Argument was heaped upon argument;
and it may give some idea of their minds, which,
amid much cunning, display some reasoning power,
to mention that one argument offered was, that
they were called San Ti Qu, which had three
syllables, and it was better to call the others Sam
Siubok, which had likewise three syllables ! To
this I replied, that any term which implied equality
I would receive, and, therefore, if they would style
themselves Sam San Ti Qu, the others should be
styled Sam Sin-bok. Their burst of indignation
showed me how little they relished applying to
themselves the degrading term they wished to affix
on the others. I added, as a proof of their great-
ness they ought to have a longer name by one
syllable, and that. they might choose to give both
their present names, or add Sam to both.

We broke up late, they still resisting all my pro-
posals, and trying to delay by requesting leave to
proceed up to their settlement. I replied shortly,
that they could not leave the place except to
depart for Sambas, and that their final answer
must be given to-morrow morning, and failing
to reply would be esteemed tantamount to resist-
ance and disobedience. Seeing how the conference
was going, I had despatched messengers to prepare
the schooner, arm her boats, and likewise the war
prahus ; and, by the time we broke up, every thing
was ready. In the morning they requested a re-

Digged by Google

294 Mil. brooke's journal. [chap, xvu.

1842. prieve till the evening, when they would meet me
again ; and, on our meeting, they conceded every
thing of importance, and glossed their concessions
by complaining of a few insignificant points, two
of which I readily waved : — one was the remission
of their yearly revenue, amounting to 200 reals,
which they Baid they had understood was to com-
mence from this year instead of last. So ended the
famous conference, and I only wish a Willde had
been here to represent it

The Royalist was loaded, and sailed after a deten-
tion of three days on account of the Chinese affair,
for I had resolved at once to push it to extremity
if they did not yield to the terms demanded. The
head men of the kunsi were all in my power ; and
when, after the second evening's discussion, they
requested leave to proceed up the river, 1 intimated
that they could not depart until they had consented
to sign the first agreement. Had they been strong
enough, I doubt not they would have resisted ; and
even now I look forward to future trouble in that
quarter; but by just government and fair trade
they may be brought to good temper, and, at any
rate, the chances are we shall strengthen in a
greater proportion than they will be able to do. *
April is. April 13. — The Royalist arrived on the 25th of
March, and sailed on the 9th, carrying a cargo of
antimony ore. Of Mr. Bonham's movements I have
no intelligence, but I believe him to be anxious to
forward my views.

* This kunsi has remained well disposed and peaceable eTer since.

Digged by Google

Chap. XVII.] TRADITIONS OF THE CREATION OF HAN. 295

I have had a visit from the pangawa of Lundu. I842 -
This naked savage was the first Dyak I ever saw,
and I felt deeply interested in him. I mentioned
him in the early part of my Journal when I visited
Lundu in 1839. From him I had an excellent
opportunity of correcting my former information,
and adding to it. Biadura was a great Dyak chief
(probably of the tribe, for I never heard of him
elsewhere), whom they held in great reverence.
God is Battara, or Jowata ; to him they offer sacri-
fice at harvest time, &c Battara and Jowata are
different names for the same person ; and Sabyan
is below the earth : a good place, &c, where there
are houses of plank fitted up with musquito curtains
and every other convenience. Their tradition of
the creation of man is, — that Jowata took earth in
both hands ; that the earth in his right hand, be-
came man ; that on his left, woman ; and he gave
them to live together.* This is the belief of four
or five tribes I have asked, and probably common
to them all. The Lundu use the term Jowata for
God, as do some others ; many, however, use Bat-
tara : both are Hindu. The Dyaks were formerly
under the government of Java, and their revenue
was yearly sent there, but when the Borneans in-
vaded their country the Javanese were driven out.
This is a tradition of several tribes of whom I have
inquired, and is worthy of remark, especially as it is
confirmed by the Hindu names of the Deity. I now
require to see their customs and ceremonies, and if

* Probably taken from the Malays.

Digged by Google

296 MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XVII.

1842. j ]ive to another year shall most likely be able to
do so. I may mention, that in sickness the Dyaks
employ music as a sort of charm, and, with the
beating of gongs of different sorts (of which they
are very fond), walk in procession round about the
house or village. I have here and there seen their
various modes of disposing of their dead ; some bury,
some burn : generally among the hill tribes here the
latter is the custom, and upholds the tradition of
Javanese supremacy, a link in the evidence that
they have received some Hindu instruction.

Digged by Google

FLEET OF PIRATES.

CHAP. xvin.

FLEET OF PIRATES. SAILING DIRECTIONS. — COAST SCENERY.

PURSUIT OF PIRATES. THE BIQ HOUSE. — PRIVILEGES OF THE

ORANQ RATA.— EXCHANGE OF PRESENTS. — NEW AND CURIOUS
CUSTOM. — ISLANDS OF TALANG TALANG. TURTLES. FOR-
TIFIED DWELLINGS. — MANNER OF DEPOSITING TURTLES' EGGS.

— NEWS OF PANGERAN BODRUDEEN. — MEETLNO WITH THE
FANGERAN AND ILLANUN PANGUKA. — HOSTILE ENCOUNTER.

— DEATH OF THE PANGLIMA. — CHARACTER OF THE KADTAN
TRIBE. — RETURN TO SARAWAK. — EXECUTION OF PANGERAN
BUDRUDEEN. — METHOD OF STRANGLING. — EJUStNG. — NEWS

FROM SINGAPORE. — REPORTS OF AN INTENDED INVASION. A

WARNING LETTER TO THE PIRATE CHIEF. — AFFECTING PART-
ING OF THE CONDEMNED CRIMINALS AND THE RAJAH'S BRO-
THERS. — LAND-BEARINGS. LISTS OF RIVERS. DESCRIPTION

OF COAST.

April 29. 1842 I have lately returned from a 1842 '

few days' excursion into the interior, where I pro- April 29
ceeded to visit the Chinese settlements. During
my absence a Dyak fleet of pirates threatened the
interior of the river, but were beaten off by a small
force of prahus sent by the Tumangong with Mr.
Crimble, and a few of my Europeans. To-morrow
or next day I start again for the Samarahan.

April 30. — More accounts of Dyaks at the April 30.
mouth of the Moratabas, and I am off to attack
them with my Raja "Walli, about forty men ; Ular,
thirty men ; Syam Sabong, or fighting cock, twenty
men ; Nagur, thirty men* — in all one hundred and
twenty good men and true — good luck be with us !

* These are name* of war boats: Avgtici, eagle, make, fighting
cock, and dragon.

Digged by Google

bib. brooke's journal. [Our. xvm.

May 1. — We dropped down the river last even-
ing, and pulled in the morning to the Samarahan,
but found no Dyaks, as reported. The entrance is
incorrectly laid down by Mr. Murray, by placing
it as disemboguing to the northward, whereas it is
to the westward, and some miles farther than he
makes it. Hence, we retraced our course, and,
passing Tanjong Fo, coasted along the head-lands
to Tullok Limow, where the Dyaks were encoun-
tered before. Here, however, we found no fresh
traces. These head-lands are bold with rocks, and
moderately elevated cliffs, and white sandy beaches,
fringed with intervening trees. The crags have
a weather-beaten aspect, the vegetation on them
showing the effects of the high winds in the north-
east monsoon.

To the westward of Tanjong Po, rocks lie off a
mile and a half or more, but otherwise there is no
visible danger. Tullok Limow is protected by an
island, and an anchorage might be found for vessels
in the north-east monsoon ; but I had not time to
examine. Between this island (which from sea-
ward appears the westernmost head-land) and Tan-
jong Sipang, the land falls into a deep sandy
bay, in which are the three rivers Siral, Tabo,
and Buntal, all of which are connected one with
the other, and with the main stream of Sarawak.
The river Sirai joining the Sarawak, too, reaches
beyond Santong, the Buntal nearer the Batn
Boyar* entrance, and the connecting rivers branch
into so many smaller streams, that they form, as I

• Alligator rock.

Dpibcd by Google

Chap. XVIII.] ABUNDANCE OF FISH. 299

have before observed, a net-work of water wherein i** 2 -
a boat may easily lose its way. No vessel should
venture into this bay, as the sands extend a long
way out to sea. The entrance of these rivers is
very shallow, and at the Tabo and Buntal dries at
half ebb, in consequence of which there is a re-
markable irregularity of the tide. The firBt of the
flood not finding its way in from the sea, the flood-
tide of the Sarawak fills the river, which appears
to run ebb until the sands at the mouth are co-
vered, when the regular flood from the sea makes
in. Thus half the flood was towards the sea, and
half into the country : the same with the ebb tide,
the first half of which runs out regularly ; but when
the sand dries, the last half appears to run flood,
and escapes by the Sarawak mouth.

We brought up at sunset at the embouchure of
the Buntal, and had a long walk with our guns
over the sands. The scenery is striking, and the
mountains of Santobong form a beautiful contrast
with the sandy beach. No place could surpass it for
the purposes of exercise and enjoyment. Fish is to
be found in abundance, and deer and hogs are plen-
tiful ; the latter I might have shot, but could not
come within reach of the former; those I saw
were of a decided reddish colour. A huge lizard, or
biawak, was likewise seen, but escaped : its length
appeared full five feet. It is a land crocodile, but
harmless. After dark we pulled away for Batu
Boyar, and there passed the night, after a hard
day's-work for the men.

May 2. — Got away at 7 a. h. from Batu Boyar, May 2.

Digged by GOOglC

MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cap. XVIII.

and, with a light hreeze, stood for Lundu. Near
the mouth of this river there is a supply of fine pure
water to be procured at the foot of Gunong Siju-
jang, a hill situated on the right hand as you enter
from the sea. There is a succession of rivers, and
low points connected by fine sandy beaches, all the
way to Lundu.

At 10 A. m. fell in with a small party fishing, who
gave us information of two prahus having passed
four days before. These may be the pirate Budru-
deen and his consort, Sheriff Abu Bakar, and, if so,
we shall probably find them at Lundu. The ques-
tion arose in my mind whether, as the latter s boat
was not present at the attack on the Chinese, and,
as yet, bad committed no act of piracy, I could by
any means include her crew in the punishment,
unless they took part with the guilty, and resisted.
In the evening we reached the mouth of the Lundu
river ; but on our way fell in with two boats of the
Sibuyow Dyaks, who ran from us, and abandoned
one of their prahus. This we picked up and brought
in, but the other carried the news of enemies up
to the kampong, and when we anchored, we beard
two or three guns fired as a proof that they were
on the alert.

It thus became dangerous to proceed in the
dark, and we had to wait till day-break with a good
look-out, it being not unlikely that our friends
might attack us. All those who frequent the sea-
shores lead a life of constant peril from roving
Dyaks and treacherous Malays, like those we are

Digged by Google

Chap. XVEtt.] THE LONG HOUSE. 301

in pursuit of, and Blaming and Balanini, the re- ,842 '
gular pirates. It is a life of watchfulness, hide-
and-seek, and fight or night, and in the course of
each year many lose their lives or their liberty;
yet this sea-shore abounds with fish, shrimps, and
turtle, which, if properly protected, would prove a
source of revenue.

May 3. — Patingi Ali, and the Rajah's follower, May s.
Ibrahim, started from Lundu at mid-day, when the
grand fleet got under weigh, and in the evening
reached the town.

May 4. — I passed last night in the Long House, *ty *■
which is not quite so long as the one described
in my "last journal. The former one was burnt,
and with it all the heads; but they appeared
to care little about them, or to think that there
was any necessity for their being replaced, though
they complained bitterly of the loss of eight or ten
muskets. I have every reason to adhere to my
former opinion of this people, or rather to praise
them more highly than I did before. Their chief,
the Orang Kaya Tumangong, is a man of remark-
able qualities, candid, brave, and honest. He was
surrounded by a family of eight or nine fine
children, by his wife and an obedient tribe. Nothing
opposes their prosperity, excepting the extortions
of the Fangerans, and their hereditary lord, Bindarri
Sumpsu; yet even these dare not greatly oppress
them, for they know the resolution of the men, and
respect it.

I have noticed that Bindarri Simpsu is the

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's jodekal. 1ch*p. inn.

hereditary lord of Sabuyow, all of whose relations
share in his privileges. This claim to authority
over the tribe arose from the payment of some
debts by the Bindarri's ancestors, long beyond the
memory of the present generation. Being since a
broken tribe, part only are at Lundu, the rest dis-
persed in different places at Sadong. The Lundu
people have always resisted any undue exactions or
claims; but those at Sadong, less strong, have been
subjected to them.

These claims have gradually risen in proportion
to the distance of time, the weakness of the Dyaks,
and the increased want of principle in the chiefs.
At first the Dyaks paid a small stated sum as an
acknowledgment of vassalage ; by degrees, this be-
came an arbitrary and unlimited taxation, and now,
to consummate the iniquity, the entire tribes are
pronounced slaves, and liable to be disposed of. This
fate has attended them in many instances, upwards
of thirty having already been sold by the rapacious
relations of Bindarri. Not so the Orang Kaya
Tumangong, who has maintained his liberty, and
openly asserts it, with great vehemence declaring
that whoever wishes to make his tribe at Lundu
slaves, must first fight with them. When we were
at the house their yearly paddy was drying in the
sun, hud upon mats, and the harvest " being home "
they were storing it. One of the Rajah's brothers,
a great rascal, by name Abdul Kadire, had made a
demand in the following manner. He sent a bundle
of twenty Dyak clothes, value six or seven reals,

11, Google

Chap. XVDX] HEW AND CCKI0D8 CDfiTOM. 303

and requested the Orang Kaya to give ten reals for 18 ' 2 -
it. This was not very extortionate, but for this
ten reals he demanded one hundred and sixty
passus of salt, or upwards of a koyan and a half. I
took away the Dyak clothes, or bidangs, and re-
lieved the Sibuyows from this intolerable tax.

I observed one of their customs somewhat new
to me. A child was sick, and, as a charm, a
straight stick, six feet high, was stuck in a water-
jar before the door of the apartment in which it
lay : leaves, surmounted by a Battick handkerchief,
crowned the head, and the stem was twined with
a chowat or waist-cloth. On inquiry, I learned
that it was a charm, and that a ghost or fairy
(untu) would descend and make known the best
cure for the child — either in a dream, or whilst
they were awake, they could not be certain which.

At mid-day we dropped down the river, and at
the mouth were joined by the Orang Kaya Tuman-
gong in a small war pra.hu. I have already de-
scribed these boats : this one pulled twenty paddles
only — was fastened with rattans, as they all are —
was very fast, and painted red. I learned that
they make this red paint themselves, from an earth
which is very abundant, and not far from their
river : they mix the earth with oil ! Surely this is
worth inquiring about. At night we passed through
the intricate channel, and, after pulling till twelve
o'clock, brought up in a bay within Tanjong Batu.

"We had learned from the Orang Kaya Tuman-
gong that the pirate Budrudeen was at Sim,

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOEE'S JOURNAL- [Chat. XVm.

and Sheriff Abu Bakar at Talang Talang ; so in
the morning the boats separated, and whilst the
Tumangong and the Orang Kaya Tumangong went
to the former place, I, with the rest of the fleet,
proceeded to Talang Talang.

The islands of Talang Talang are two in num-
ber, both small and hilly, covered with vegetation,
each having a narrow sandy beach. On this
sand the turtles, in large numbers, deposit their eggs,
which are a source of revenue and profit, and with
the fish-stakes at Siru and Samatan, would bring
from 1000 to 1500 reals a year revenue. The
turtle is the common green species, and a few of
the kind which produce the tortoise-shell. They
commence laying about the middle of May, a stray
one only making its appearance at this season.
From the middle of June and July they come up
ninety and a hundred of a night; and as each
female, at a lair calculation, deposits 200 eggs,
there may be reckoned 20,000 eggs nightly, for two
or three months. These eggs are exported to Sam-
bas and Pontiana, and all along the S. W. coast
The price at Sambas is eight imams a hundred,
and at Pontiana one rupee for the same number.
From twenty to forty men live on the island, and
it is just the life they like. On the sand they have
a small watch-house ; and half way up the hill their
dwelling-house, defended by a palisade and guarded
by two guns ; and on the hill-top another house,
which may be called a place of refuge. From
the number of pirates, they are obliged to take

Digged by Google

Ch**. xvhi.j islands of talang talang.

these precautions. It is the custom, whenever a
friendly boat touches at the island, to present two
hundred eggs of large, and one hundred of small
size. The head person at Talang Talang is ap-
pointed from Sarawak, and he has likewise the
management and control of the fishing-stakes and
nets at Siru, Samatan, and other places. The rates
for a stake, a net, or for hand-fishing for shrimps,
are fixed by long standing custom, and it is only
of late, when Der Makota doubled them, that the
people have deserted these stations. Shrimps and
prawns in great abundance frequent the shores
at the commencement of May, and fish at the
end of the same month. The natives represent
them to be in surprising and incalculable numbers.
In the middle of April people from Sambas, Sa-
dong, Kaluka, and most other parts, come for the
season to this " watering-place" for profit. Some
fish, others manufacture balachan ; some trust to
their net, others to their stakes : and at this season
salt is in great demand. I will only repeat again,
that if life and property were secure, the fishery on
this coast would be very valuable ; and surely it
would not be too much to ask of a civilised Govern-
ment to suppress the most atrocious system of
piracy and murder that ever disgraced the neigh-
bourhood of a European settlement. In three
months, the spawning season being at an end, the
fish retire to deeper water, and in five months the
turtle season is over. The persons engaged in this
occupation then return to their different countries,
vox. i. x

Digged by Google

306 MK. BUOOKK'S JOUBNAL. [Cur. XTHL

i*M2. and the following year have to rebuild their
"~"™ houses anew, as they are generally pulled down by
pirates ; and if they have been at the trouble of
making a garden, the savages destroy that like-
wise, cutting down the young cocoa nuts and plan-
tains, for the pleasure, it is presumed, of trying
the temper of their swords.

I had here an opportunity of seeing a turtle
deposit its egga, which it did in the following
manner : — when on the sand it wandered from place
to place, and tried several by digging a little, ap-
parently rejecting them as unfit : at length, having
made its choice, it hurried its nose, and began
scooping the sand with its hinder feet in a most
deliberate and easy manner, throwing the sand to
a considerable distance. It often stopped in its
work, and recommenced, and so dug till the body
was pretty well buried, and the hole a depth of
three or more feet. It then took its station over
the hole, and began to lay its' eggs, which it did at
intervals, for a length of time, to the number of
two hundred and thirty; and all the while was
perfectly indifferent to the proximity of numerous
spectators. Having deposited its eggs, it filled the
hole with its hinder fins, and beat down the sand
both on the spot and all around, and then retired,
not directly (for the track would have been a
guide to the nest), but in numerous tortuous
courses, round and round, and finally took its
departure for the sea at a point distant from its
eggs. The Malays on watch have small sticks

Digged by Google

Chap. XVm.] THE TURTLE. 307

with flags on them, and as each turtle deposits 1M2 -
its eggs, they mark the spot with one of these, and
the following morning take the eggs, and store
them ready for sale. With all their vigilance,
however, numbers escape their observation, and
some nests they purposely spare. When the young
come forth, the sand (which is small) is said to be
literally covered with them, and as they make
directly for the sea, the sharks and other fish
devour great numbers. These two islands are
picturesque and beautiful, with fine wood, and
they would make a charming estate for the growth
of nutmegs and coffee, for the soil is good. At
present they abound with limes and chillies, and
have a few wild plantains, all of which thrive well.

To return, however, to my narrative. In the
evening the Tumangong came over with certain
news that the pirate Budrudeen was at Siru with
eight followers ; his band ashore, and he living in
a house in the village. Abu Bakar, with a crew
of fifteen men, chiefly Blanuns, I found living
ashore at Talang Talang, with a small boat, and
a huge long six-pounder in her, which, fired twice,
must have separated her planks. I learned, also,
that six Balinini boats had been to Talang Talang,
and had had a friendly conference with Sheriff Abu
Bakar.

In the evening we had a storm, and were obliged
to run our boats ashore, as they could not have
withstood the sea which rolled in.

May 5 The Tumangong came with many ex- M»jS.

Digged by Google

J08 mb. bbooke's journal, [oup. xvxii.

1843. cuses, begging not to be employed against the
pirate Budrudeen: he evidently dreaded the con-
sequences. The two patingis, therefore, I sent on,
with orders to catch them, if possible ; if not, to
kill them. I, at the same time, informed Sheriff
Abu Bakar that I had no discussion to hold
with him ; but that I had come to catch, or to
kill Budrudeen and his comrades. One of these
was a Illanun panglima ; and on his brother II-
lanuns hearing it, some of them wept. All said,
however, that if I killed the Illanun panglima,
without killing the Pangeran and his brother-
in-law, it would be unjust. I assured them I
should kill all three, and they were so far com-
forted. At mid-day, the patingis not returning,
I civilly requested my Sheriff to take himself away
as soon as he could from Talang Talang, and
having ordered Si Pata, my deputy, never again to
receive or confer with pirates, I set sail for Siru.

Arrived at Siru, I found the patingi waiting till
the pangeran and the Illanun panglima came to the
beach ; and to prevent suspicion, my party kept
close in the boat, whence I could observe what was
passing without. The pangeran and Illanun walked
down, both well armed, and the latter dressed out
with a variety of charms. Once on the beach, re-
treat was impossible, for our people surrounded
them, though without committing any hostile act.
The suspicion of the two was, however, raised, and
it was curious to observe their different demeanour.
The Borneo pangeran remained quiet, silent, and

Digged by Google

Chap. XVm.] HOSTILE ENCOUHTEH. 309

motionless; a child might have taken him; the 184%
Magindinao Elanun lashed himself to desperation,
flourishing his spear in one hand, and the other on
the handle of his sword, he defied those collected
about him : he danced his war-dance on the sand :
his face became deadly pale : his wild eyes glared :
he was ready to amok, to die, but not to die alone.
His time was come, for he was dangerous, and to
catch him was impossible ; and accordingly, Patingi
Ali, walking past, leaped forward, and Btruck a
spear through his back, far between his shoulders,
half a foot out at his breast. I had no idea that
after such a thrust, a man could, even for a few
instants, exert himself; but the panglima, after re-
ceiving his mortal wound, rushed forward with his
spear, and thrust it at the breast of another man ;
but strength and life failed, and the weapon did not
enter. This was the work of a few seconds.

When the blow was dealt, we started from our
concealment, and the Borneo pangeran, without ever
drawing his sword, fled, our people not molesting
him. I prevented any atrocities being committed
on the body of the criminal, and, wrapped in my
sheet, he was decently interred according to the
usages of El Islam. The pangeran, in the mean
time, had escaped to a house, where, with seven
followers, he threatened a desperate resistance. I
despatched a messenger to him to say that I would
take him to Sarawak and guarantee his safety so far ;
but he positively refused. As the day was feat de-
clining, my second message was to inform him, if he

Digged by Google

810 mb. brooke's journal. [Chap, xyiii.

is«. did not come down to the beach, I should attack
his house; and on receiving this message, and
seeing our state of preparation, he yielded to terms ;
and the whole crew were shipped aboard the Tu-
rnangong's boat. The flood-tide making at ten at
night, and the boats getting afloat, we passed out
from Siru, the entrance to which is dangerous for
boats, and pulled for Samatan, where we brought
up at about one in the morning, after a very busy
day. Siru and Samatan are both fishing stations.
At the former place is a colony of Kadyans from
Borneo — originally, only six or seven men; now
amounting to thirty families, from having inter-
married with the Dyaks and Malays. These Ka-
dyans are Islamites, and form the rural population
of Borneo, where they are numerous. They are
a very fine people ; respected for their honesty and
plain dealing, and for the simplicity of their man-
ners and mode of life. The native testimony is
unanimously in their favour, and the little I have
seen of them goes to corroborate the general
impression.

May 6. May 6. — Sailing all day. Parted from the

Orang Kaya Tumangong, who went into Lundu,
whilst we ourselves put in for the night to Sibow,
intending to take the inner passage to the Sarawak
river.

May 7. May 7. — Heavy rain prevented our getting

under weigh during the night; therefore in the
morning put to sea again,, and about ten reached
Batu Boyar. Having bathed in the beautiful fresh,

Digged by Google

CHAP. XVm.] EXECUTION OF PIRATES. 311

cool streamlet of Sijingjang, despatched the pa- 1848 -
tingi to Sarawak to give information, whilst we
followed slowly with the prisoners. Brought up
opposite the Sirail.

May 8. — Late last evening proceeded to Lin- M»j 8.
tang : at midnight was joined by pangeran Bakire
and the patingis, who came to say that Muda Hassim
consented ■to the execution of the pirates. With
pangeran Bakire came Mr. Williamson, the schooner
having entered the Moratabas the day before. The
day our tragedy was acting at Siru she stood past
Talang Talang, and had we been a few hours later
we should probably have seen her.

May 9. — At nine a. m. reached our wharf: m»j g.
conferred through Williamson with Muda Hassim,
who was resolute about putting the rascals to
death. However, I suggested to him that the ex-
ample of the pangeran would suffice for the ends of
justice. He added another ; thepangeran's brother-
in-law. About one, the pirate Budrudeen was
taken across the water to the house of his own re-
latives, who were present, and had previously con-
sented to his death, and there strangled by pan-
geran Bakire. The mode of execution is refined.
The prisoner is placed inside thick musquito cur-
tains, and the cord twisted from behind. The
criminal, it is said, kept repeating, " What ! am I
to be put to death for only killing the Chinese ?
Mercy, mercy ! " His brother-in-law was krissed
by a follower of the rajah, inside a house. His

Digged by Google

ME. BBOOEE'S JOUBNAL. [Chat. XTTU.

hands were held out, and the long kriss being
fixed within the clavicle bone on the left side, was
pushed down to the heart. The criminal smiled
as they fixed the kriss — never spoke a word,
and died instantly. Thus ended this bloody and
wretched business, which nothing but a stern sense
of its necessity would have induced me to consent
to. That they deserved death none can doubt.
The rest of the prisoners, seven in number, were
chained.

May 10. — Royalist at anchor.

From Singapore I received through Napier news
that Mr. Bonham approved of the letter I wrote
him on the subject of Borneo, and that he bad
probably referred it to the Government of Bengal,
and had asked Napier whether he thought I would
undertake the mission, if appointed. Napier an-
swered for me, I would willingly go, provided the
Government allows my view of the subject to be
correct, and will authorize me to reconcile the
pangerans ; without which no treaty would be per-
manent, and our siding with a faction and the worst
faction, would probably lead to a civil war. I con-
sider, besides, that Muda Hassim's character is
necessary as a guarantee to the treaty, and to the
safety of any small body of Europeans, and to the
stability of the trade. Hastily to establish a settle-
ment I consider rash, and it might prove disastrous.
I shall therefore recommend a treaty, ensuring the
coal of the country and security for Europeans ;
and, in the next place, a communication between

Digged by Google

Chap. XVHI.] EEPOBTS OF AN INTENDED INVASION. 313

the Governments for a year or so, during which we 1842 -
may see dearly the temper of the people, choose a
proper site for an establishment, and remove the
jealousy and fear which at present exist. To
demand a settlement at once would, I think,
frighten the Borneons out of their wits. These
views, I am sure, are correct. How often we have
failed in consequence of rushing to form a settle-
ment without due knowledge of the locality !

May 22. — Royalist having received her cargo and M«j22.
stores dropped down; sails to-day from the mouth,
that is, if she gets a breeze.

July 1. — I have been much occupied during the July l.
last six weeks with the affairs of Santah and Singe.
The former has been for a considerable time under
the government of Sheriff Sahib of Sadong, and has
felt the devastating power of his tyrannical sway.
The latter country I have myself visited, and have
succeeded in making peace between that powerful
tribe and the minor tribes of Simpoke and Sign ;
and I have further had the satisfaction of recon-
ciling the Singe with the Goon and Sibadat Dyaks,
returning to Sarawak highly gratified with the
result of my negotiations.

At Sarawak I found most alarming reports of an
intended invasion from the united forces of Sa-
rebas and Sakarran, and received, moreover, the
agreeable information that Byong, one of the leading
men of the former river, had suspended a basket
on a high tree, ready to receive my head when he
returned in triumph from the conquest of my

Digged by Google

314 mb. brooke's journal. [ckaf. xvijt.

1842. country. I cared little for these idle threats,
though I did not neglect taking the necessary pre-
cautions. A stout fence was fixed around the vil-
lage ; a fort was erected commanding the reach of the
river, and my war-boats, twenty-five in number,
were prepared for active service. I knew Sheriff
Sahib to be a fiend and my inveterate enemy, and
his undoubted power was not to be despised.

These preparations completed, a letter was sent
to this monster from Muda Hassim, informing him
that " the White Man" now governed the province
of Sarawak, and warning him to desist, whilst there
was yet time, from his iniquitous incursions into a
land over which he had no authority ; and at the
same time I wrote to the proud Sheriff myself, in
terms that could not be mistaken.

As soon as these were despatched I set to work
heartily in making the necessary arrangements for
visiting Brunei the capital city of Borneo Proper.
I had heard nothing satisfactory relative to the
Lascar crew of the ships Sultana and Viscount Mel-
bourne, which I knew were detained by the Sultan,
and I therefore resolved to proceed to the capital
in person and endeavour to obtain their release,
and at the same time to procure the ratification of
the Sultan to the grant made to me ten months
ago by the Rajah Muda Hassim, of the country
and government of Sarawak.
July is. July 15. — At eleven p. m. proceeded, and reached
the mouth of the river before daylight ; went on
board to breakfast ; afterwards delayed by the non-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. XVIII.] LAND BEARINGS. 315

arrival of the rajah's baggage-boat ; and when we 184a -
had the things aboard, and had received the
sultan's letters in state, and fired a salute, the ebb
had run low, and the wind being scant, we could
not sail till near low water, when we got under
weigh in the hope of ridding ourselves of our
crowd of friends, for the heat and the bustle were
intolerable. Three of the rajah's brothers were with
us, to see the last of Budrudeen and Musale ; the
latter and Jalleludeen felt their parting bitterly.
I must repeat, I think the better of them for it.
I bad fancied they had little or no feeling, when,
in truth, their feelings are acute, and almost
childish. We had not got out two miles ere a
squall a-head forced us to bring-to, and when fine
weather returned our friends all crowded round
us again. However, we made the best of it.

July 16. — After breakfast weighed again with a July 16.
feather wind, and stood out all day with the same
weather; and about six directed our course for
Tanjong Sirik.

July 17 Wind moderate and fair all night, July 17.

and at seven we sighted the low land within Tan-
jong Sirik. We kept hauling to the northward, and
rising the land as we advanced, till two p.m., when
we passed the point also, at a distance of about seven
miles, in soundings of quarter-less five fathoms, the
point bearing E. by S. The general direction of
the land approaching Sirik is N. by E., all low,
woody, and without any striking features. The
depth of the bay, included between the Sadong

lignbcd by Google

MB. BEOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cbjj-. XVill.

river and Tanjong Sink is considerable, but not
' ascertained, and the land where it trends north-
ward is also visible. Taking the large bay in-
cluded between the principal headland of Sipang
to the westward, and Sirik to the eastward, the
following rivers occur: —

1. Buntal, Tabo, and Sirall, betweeen Sipang
and Poe, all shallow entrances to Sarawak.

2. Moratabas, the principal entrance to Sa-
rawak.

3. Satnarahan.

4. Sadong.

5. Batang Lupar, containing branches.

6. Sercbas.

7. Kaluka.

8. Niabus.

9. Rejang.

10. Balowi.

11. Palo.

Of these Sadong, Linga, Batang Lupar, and Se-
rebas have a bore. The Sakarran and Serebas are
predatory Dyak tribes; Balowi and Palo are in-
habited by Milanows, a species of Dyaks, reported
to be civilized and industrious ; and, from the ex-
amples I have seen in panglhna Dallam and his men,
they may be justly accounted such. Up the Rejang
river is the town of Seriki, the most flourishing
place on this coast, and in the interior the tattooed
tribe of Kanowit. Here likewise is the principal and
most friendly communication with the Kyans, of the
interior, independent people, whom the Malay chiefs

Digged by Google

Ch*t. ITOL] DESCRIPTION OP COAST. 317

treat with great respect. To the eastward of Tan- 1842 -
jong Sirik is some low land, which two nakodahs
on board agreed in saying was an island called Bruit
or Pato, indifferently. They state, likewise, that
close into the point, and within this island, is a
deep channel ; but that further off there are shoals
of hard sand. The Royalist, on her former voyage,
at from three to four miles distance (guessed) had
four fathoms : at any rate, it is as well to give this
point a good wide berth, especially in the night.

July 18. — Crossing the bay between the points j,jy is.
Sirik and Barram, at 3 p. M., met with one of the
heavy squallB of the climate, from north-west, which
knocked up a terrible sea. I have scarcely in this
country seen any thing worse. Our soundings were
from 15 to 20 fathoms, and quite clear of danger.
There is, however, a patch — probably the one laid
down on the charts — on which the Royalist struck
soundings of twelve fathoms from deep water ; but
this cannot be called a danger. The wind and sea
astonished the weak minds of our native friends ;
but the two pangerans behaved with becoming
composure, and seemed to apprehend nothing,
whilst the nakodahs (who knew a little) enter-
tained great dread, more especially of our losing
our way, as we had been some hours out of sight
of land.

July 19. — Daylight, two mountains in sight, July is.
and we gradually rise the low land between them.
The southernmost is called Si Lungan, the northern-
most Lambire; the latter being a good mark for

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE'S JODHNAL. [Ceat. XVIII.

Tanjong Barram, which is low, and lies to the
northward and eastward of it. Between Lambire
and Tanjong Ban-am is Meri, the land near which
comes in sight rather before the rest, being some-
what higher.

Si Lungan has some height and extent, and
shows from seaward like several islands. Within
the bay is the high mountain of Tatow ; but we
did not see it. The Tatows are tattooed, and use
the sumpitan, are reputed to be savage, and ravage
the coast, so as to prevent the trading- prahus from
coming along it. Latitude at noon, 4° 36' 26";
Tanjong Barram bearing 85£, ten miles distant.
Barranx is low, woody, and pretty well denned,
the trees being rather higher than those im-
mediately behind it. Lambire showed notched and
long, bearing S.E. by S. Gunong Maolu bears
115° over the low land. This mountain or range
is high — say 5,000 feet, and situated in the interior
of Borneo Proper. The entrance to Meri is where
the low hifl s which continue from Lambire to the
northward sink into the plain. The mouth of the
Barram river is at the point of the same name.
From Tanjong Sirik to Tanjong Barram, the follow-
ing rivers are in the bay: —

Mattu, inhabitants, Milanow.

Elas (Egan, up the river), inhabitants, Malays
and others.

Oya, inhabitants, Malays, Milanow.

Muka Malays, Milanow.

Balarian Tatows.

Digged by Google

Coat. XVIII.] LIST OF RIVERS. 319

Tatow, inhabitants, Tatows. "«■

Bintulu — Malays and Milanow. " "

Men Malays and Milanow.

Barram Kayans.

Besides the rivers here noted, there are many
others along the coast, which are smaller, and with-
out inhabitants. The river Barram is the egress of
the Kayans. Bintulu and Barram are famous for
camphor, and Muka and Oyer export large quanti-
ties of sago.

At 3 p. m., Tanjong Barram bearing south by
west, or south three quarters west, distant twelve
miles, the longitude was 113° 59' 21".

Passing Barram, the coast is clear of all danger*,
and shores, bold with red cliffs, occasionally well
cleared, and inhabited by Kadyans. An E. N. E.
course is direct for Labuan. Tutong, and other
rivers, lay between Barram and Borneo. We lay-
to at midnight, having sighted the islands, and
early this morning made sail again with a beating
wind. Labuan, or Anchorage Island, and the rest
of the group, are all low and woody. The western-
most island is called Euraman ; the two others near
it are the Great and Little Rusukan. Then there are
Ino Kolim, Da-at, and Malankasan. These are the
islands. The Pulo Pusaria of Dalrymple's Chart is
stated by the natives to be joined to the main, and
is called Sari. On approaching, the first leading
mark is a small conical hill on the main to the

* Subsequently several shoala have been discovered.

Digged by Google

320 mb. brooke's journal. four. xvm.

1842. westward of Moarra, called Tampiang, Pisang, or
Plaintain Dish : it is not high, but remarkable, and
points out the locality of Moarra and the reef.
On nearing, the islet ^and rocks on the Moarra reef
become visible: between these and Rusukan is a
broad channel, and standing in the middle of it,
the low south east point of Moarra is made out ;
but the river is not open. On the extreme of this
point are a few detached trees, and when they bear
south-west by west the river is well open, and you
may boldly run in and anchor.

The soundings are not very regular. In going
in, the south-east point bearing south-west by west,
and south-west, we had nine fathoms with casts of
seven and six. When in the river channel, the
water gets discoloured, and the soundings more
regular, being six and seven fathoms in the centre
of the channel, and shooting toward either bank,
and getting hard. The scenery is fine : an amphi-
theatre of noble mountains of various heights.
Some of the highest inland, as far as I could judge,
run east by north, or E. N. E. The others skirt the
coast. The outline is irregular, and the mountains
fade into hills, which again leave slips of low land
near the shores : add to these the islands, the sea,
and the breaking and extensive reef, and the de-
scription is complete. We anchored well out, on a
strong ebb running against us.

Digged by Google

Cbap. XIX.] MB. BROOKE S PHOCEEDLNGS.

CHAP. XIX.

MR. BROOKES PBOCEEDHIGS. — VIBIT TO BORNEO PROPER. —
FORMAL CESSION OF SARAWAK. — CHARACTER OF THE BOR-
NEANS. — MANNERS OF THE NATIVES. — CEBEUONT OF READ-
DCS THR PROCLAMATION. — CLIMATE. VALUE OF TIMBER. —

CONDITION OF INHABITANTS. — PREPARATION FOR ASSAULTING
HOSTILE DTAK8. — DIVISIONS OF THE TOWN. — NEGOTIATIONS.
— ARRIVAL OF THE NATIVE FLEET. — INDIFFERENCE CONCERN-
ING THE ACQUISITION OF HEADS. — CHARACTER OF A DTAK
CHIEF. — DTAK JUSTICE. — CUSTOMS. — HEAD-HUNTING EXPE-
DITIONS. MARRIAGE. BURNING THE DEAD. EXECUTION

OF PARIHBAN AND PA TUMMO.

The proceedings of Mr. Brooke at the capital are 1342.
detailed at some length in Captain Keppel's work,

,,..,, , _ °, , . x l . . Captain

and I will only allude to them here so far as is Mundy's
necessary to continue the thread of the narrative. WTat,ve

It was on the 25th of July that Mr. Brooke pro-
ceeded on his first visit to the chief city of Borneo
Proper, and on his arrival he was immediately ad-
mitted to the presence of the Sultan. At this
audience he was introduced to the Pangerans Usop,
Mumin, Tizudeen, Bahar, Kurmaindar, and other
princes of note, and the usual compliments over,
they entered at once on the business of the day.

The Sultan expressed himself unreservedly in
favour of a reconciliation with his uncle the Rajah
Muda Hassim, gave up the twenty-six Lascars
wrecked in the Sultana and Viscount Melbourne,
without ransom, and liberated three others (who
had been captured and sold by Sheriff Osman of

VOL. I. T

Digged by Google

mb. brooke's journal. [cbaf. xix.

Maltudu), on the payment by Mr. Brooke of twenty-
five dollars; and finally, His Highness declared
himself favourable to the grant of the territory of
Sarawak made by Muda Hassim to Mr. Brooke in
September 1841. The negotiations on this im-
portant subject continued for several days, during
which Mr. Brooke had many private interviews
with the Sultan, the whole of which were conducted
with great cordiality, or at any rate with re-
peated expressions of friendship and high regard to
Mr. Brooke on the part of the monarch ; and
finally, on the 1st of August the contract appointing
Mr. Brooke Rajah of Sarawak was signed, the
Sultan's great seal duly affixed with the signatures
of the required witnesses, and on the following day
Mr. Brooke re-embarked on board the Royalist, and
on the 16th re-anchored in safety at Sarawak,
where he was received with every demonstration of
joy by all classes of his subjects.

I will now return to Mr. Brooke's own journal,
which re-commences on the 20th of August.

Mr. t Sarawak, August 20. 1842. — Having obtained
Journal, the Sultan's signature in due form to my holding
Sarawak, my tenure here ia as good as it can
possibly be, as valid a title as the Company's to
Singapore. The great advantage of this is, that I
shall in a few months be quite rid of all the pange-
rans, who are the great obstruction to trade.

Digged by Google

Cbip. XIX.] MB. BROOKE RAJAH OF SARAWAK. 32

It may be truly said of the Borneans, that they IM -
are ** children of a larger growth." Their rulers
are perfectly ignorant of Europeans, being educated
(or rather brought up) in a way which renders it
matter of astonishment that they should be some of
them so good as they are.

In Borneo I freed twenty-four Klassies (Las-
cars) of the shipwrecked crews; for, although
Government shows much zeal and readiness to
recover any Europeans, they are surprisingly dila-
tory with regard to our native subjects, though,
for the life of me, I cannot see where the distinction
lies between one subject and another.

Nothing could exceed the civility of the Bor-
neans, with whom I remained ten days; quite
sufficient to discover to me the nakedness of the
land, their civil dissensions, and the total decay of
their power, internal and external. Indeed, situated
as I am, I might extend my territory as much as I
pleased, had I the means of paying moderately for
it ; and the English Government, by conciliatory
policy, may gain any thing they wish for : and it
would be a thousand pities, for want of moderate
aid, and through short-sighted views, to allow an-
other European nation to possess this fine country.
That it must shortly claim assistance from some
power I do not doubt ; and if we reject their pro-
posals, the Borneans will certainly turn to others,
and when it is too late, we shall, as in the case of
Java, find out its value and importance.

When we returned from Borneo, the Sultan'B

Digged by Google

mb. ubooke's journal. [Chap. XIX.

letter giving me the country was read in public,
and when finished we had a scene ! Muda Hassim,
who was standing, asked aloud, whether any one
dissented ; for, if they did, they were now to make it
known. From the public he went to individuals,
and made Makota declare his assent to my no-
mination. Muda Hassim then drew forth his
sabre, and raising it, proclaimed in a loud voice,
that any one who contested the Sultan's- appoint-
ment, his head should be split in two. On which,
ten of his brothers drew their krisses and flourished
them in Makota' s face, jumping and dancing, and
striking the pillar by which he sat, over his head.
A motion of Makota's would have been fatal : but
he kept his eyes on the ground, and stirred not.
I, too, remained quiet, and cared nothing about this
demonstration — for one gets accustomed to these
things. It all passed off, and in ten minutes, the
men who had been leaping frantic about the room
with drawn weapons and inflamed countenances,
were seated quiet and demure as usual, and the
flames of their dangerous passions were repressed
in their bosoms, whence they seldom escape with-
out more fatal results accruing.

All is going on very well indeed ; and though I
have a little trouble with one Dyak tribe, yet four
or five others from the interior have sent to beg me
to take them under my protection. Their am-
bassadors said, when I gave them audience, " That
they had heard, the whole world had heard, that a
son of Europe was a friend of the Dyaks."

Digged by Google

Chap. XIX.] PRODUCTIONS OF SARAWAK. 325

For the country, what shall I say ? I could not 1842.
wish a richer : its Boil is fine and admirably calcu-
lated for the culture of rice, coffee, nutmegs, or
cotton. There is a noble river flowing through
the territory. The southern boundary is defended
by a range of mountains, of an elevation which
affords an European climate ; and the climate,
generally, is healthy and cool ; the mineral pro-
ductions are rich. Then we have woods which
would supply all the dock-yards of Europe, and
of the finest quality ; for though we do not boast
of teak, we have other timber equally hurd and
equally durable. But let me turn to the amount
of good which may be done here. Never were
poor people more oppressed or more wretched
than in these countries ; and from the great weak-
ness of the native government there has gradually
been a spirit of resistance awakened amongst them :
a hope for better things which would induce them
to take any protection, and to bless the hand that
gave it.

The condition of the inhabitants would be ame-
liorated, and the unhappy Dyaks, an interest-
ing and industrious race, be released from their
wretched state of bondage and oppression. Chris-
tianity might easily be introduced amongst them :
civilisation would advance, commerce be greatly
extended, and this vast island laid open as a field for
the enterprise and knowledge of enlightened beings.

Sept. 5. — I may continue my history of the Sept. 5.
Singe Dyaks. The great influence of Parimban,

Digged by Google

326 mh. bbooke's journal. [Cbap.xix.

1842 - their chief, and Pa Tummo, the panglima, ren-
dered it imperative that I should take some mea-
sures to establish my authority over them, which
from the first they had been pleased to disavow.
Their late measures brought matters to a crisis.
They openly refused obedience, defied our au-
thority, and declined holding an interview even
with the Datus. They asserted, moreover, that
they had killed the Sanpro and other Dyaks, be-
cause they were enemies, and that they would
kill more of them.

The question was, how we could get these recu-
sants into our power. It was proposed to me to
assassinate in the Malay fashion ; which proposition,
I need hardly say, was rejected. To catch them
was a hopeless task, as they positively refused to
come down from their hill ; I resolved, therefore, as
the only alternative, to attack them. My measures
were all prepared. In the first place, I Bent the
two patingis to the landing-place to insist upon
our interview there. This was declined, as usual.
They returned, and the next day I pushed them up
again with eighty men, with directions to rush at
the mountain. The difficulties of getting to their
village were formidable ; for, as I have before ob-
served, the mountain is as steep as a ladder, and at
the top the Dyaks have an embankment to pro-
tect them, from whence they can roll down rocks,
and securely use their spears and other missiles on
their ascending enemies. In short, it is a position,
which, even with regular troops, I would hesitate

Digged by Google

Chap, XIX.] WAE WITII THE DYAKS.

to attack, more especially as the Dyaks defend
the path with the ranjows, so often mentioned.
The patingis were ordered, if possible, to ascend
the hill, and in case they could not do that with a
good chance of success, to build a house and fort
at the foot, and wait for me. It was my intention
then to divide our force into three parties, and
whilst one made a false attack on the usual ascents,
the other two were to try from opposite sides of
the mountain to gain the summit, and thus be over
their village. There was, however, another cause
of dread, which arose from the fears of the larger
part of our army, which had, before the Siniawan
war, been three times defeated by these Dyaks ; and
whilst the remembrance of their defeats damped the
ardour of our followers, it encouraged the Dyaks.

The patingis, by my direction, went up with
the eighty men ; but the Dyaks, though unprepared,
were aware of their arrival, and in the middle of a
dark and rainy night, Parimban sent down a va-
luable jar from the Dyaks, with a request that they
would wait a day or two ; and when the delay was
refused, his ambassador begged for a few hours
only. Even this they did not gain, for as soon as
day broke the party marched ; and so rapid was their
pace, that of the eighty men, only about ten were
up with the patingis. On the hill-side they found
scattered partieB of Dyaks, planting ranjows, de-
fended by about a hundred men, who, with drawn
swords and cries, endeavoured to intimidate. As,
however, our small party came up, they took to

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Ciiav. XIX.

flight, and the village was taken, and the two chiefs
also fled.

I may remark, that their village, or town, was
divided into eight or ten different parishes. The
kampong of the chief was the only one occupied by
us ; and, though the rest of the inhabitants escaped,
their property was secured. The day following
eighty more men were pushed up, and the day
after 1 went up myself with a body of two hun-
dred, not aa yet knowing the success of the patin-
gis. Parimban's kampong I found occupied by our
force, and plundered ; and, what was worse, was the
destruction of the cocoa trees and betels. It
grieved me to see the stately cocoa nut totter and
fall, and the graceful betel yield its slender trunk
to the merciless axe ; but this is the licence of war,
and may not be resisted entirely.

The young chief endeavoured all he could to
get us from the hill ; but I was resolute and stern,
invariably expressing my intention of occupying
the place, even for a year or two, till Parimban came
in : at the same time I pointed out the certain ruin
of the tribe, the full means I had of hunting
Parimban, with other Dyaks; in which pursuit,
many of their people would be killed. In short, I
said all I could to terrify ; but without much effect
until the Dyaks of the left-hand river, viz. the San-
pros, Sigus, Sabungos, &c, absolutely arrived at
the landing-place to the amount of 200 men.
When this was certain ; when some of their own
people reported that they had seen the tummi (or

Digged by Google

Our. XIX.] 1'ABIMBAN. . o2\

enemy), the rest got alarmed, and as their women 1842 -
and children had fled to the jungle to escape us,
they now returned from a greater source of terror,
and by returning, they were safe and protected.
The Bame fear quickly brought Parimban and Pa
Turamo to terms, and they met us, clothed in
white, which, as I have before said, is a symbol of
peace and of submission. I told him I would not
kill him, but take him to the rajah, and he would
then know what were the rajah's orders. He
agreed, and soon resumed his usual tone, and de-
clared before numbers, that he cared nothing about
the losses he had suffered, for he would make the
tribe repay him every thing. I could plainly ob-
serve that the Dyaks of his tribe, and the others
we had with us from Sarambo, Bimbok, and
Panonjow trembled before him, and all seemed to
dread the retaliation which he would inflict when
the storm had blown over.

Last evening I separated from the fleet, which
arrived this morning loaded with spoil, consisting
of tatawaes, gongs, mats, rice, salt, fowls, and such-
like ; but I am happy to say that this brief campaign
of seven days has been finished with success, and
without the loss of a single life, without injury
to any property except Partmban's, and that of his
immediate relations. He and Pa Tummo were this
morning put in irons preparatory to their execu-
tion. I had some reluctance at first to the idea of
putting them to death ; but from what I have now
seen, I am assured of the necessity of the step for

Digged by Google

ME. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XIX.

the safety of many other Uvea. I have mentioned
that the chiefs of Sarambo, Bimbok, and Panonjow,
were on the mountain with me, and from these men
I got some valuable information of Dyak habits
and customs, and I had myself an excellent oppor-
tunity of judging their manners and minds.

Sept. 6 Yesterday evening met the Orang

Kaya Sanpro, and the Orang Kaya Sigu : offered
them the heads of their tribe which I had brought
down from the mountain of Singfe. They declined,
however, taking them, alleging as a reason that it
would revive the sorrows of their relations. It
was sufficient, they said, that they had been brought
from the mountain, and that I might dispose of
them.

Generally speaking, the Dyaks of the left hand
river are more mild than those of the right, and
they show a great indifference to the acquisition of
heads. I was proposing last night (in order to
reconcile them to my law, that they would not kill
within our own territory), and that whenever I went
against Sarebus, they should accompany me. They
readily agreed to go, but the Orang Kaya San-
pro added, " We do not go for heads, for it is a
long time since we cared about taking them." Singe
is certainly the most intractable and wild tribe,
numerous but less brave than the Sanpro, to whom
they have paid three times for peace. This arises
in a great measure from the character of their chief
Parimban ; whose influence, during a life of sixty
years, and a reign of thirty, has been most detri-

Dignbd by Google

Chip. XIX. j HEAD HUNTING.

mental to the Dyak character. Crae of his greatest
crimes, and one the Dyaks themselves complain of,
is neglecting all their old customs, and introducing
treachery into their warfare, which was before un-
known amongst them. Their customs in war were
as follows : — If one tribe claimed a debt of another,
it was always demanded, and the claim discussed.
If payment was refused, the claimants departed,
telling the others to listen to their birds as they
might expect an attack. Even after this, it was
often the case, that a tribe friendly to each, mediated
between them, and endeavoured to make a settlement
of their contending claims. If they failed the tribes
were then at war. .Recently, however, Parimban has
attacked without due notice, and often by treachery,
and the Sow Dyaks, as well as the Singe, practise the
same treachery. The old custom likewise was, that
no house should be set on fire, no paddy destroyed,
and that a naked tooman could not be killed, nor a
woman with child. These laudable and praise-
worthy customs have fallen into disuse, yet they
give a pleasing picture of Dyak character, and re-
lieve, by a touch of humanity, the otherwise bar-
barous nature of their warfare.

Babukid, Bubukkid, or mode of defiance. — I have
before mentioned this practice of defiance, and I
since find it is appealed to as a final judgment in
disputes about property, and usually occurs in fa-
milies when the right to land and fruit trees comes
to be discussed. Each party then sallies forth in
search of a head : if one only succeed, his claim is

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE's JOURNAL. [Chap. XIX.

acknowledged ; if both succeed, the property con-
tinues common to both. It is on these occasions
that the Dyaks are dangerous, and perhaps an
European, whose inheritance depended on the issue,
would not be very scrupulous as to the means of
success. It must be understood, however, that
the individuals do not go alone, but a party accom-
panies each, or they may send a party without
being present. The loss of life is not heavy from
this cause, and it is chiefly resorted to by the Singe
and Sows, and is about as rational as our trials by
combat.

Marriage. — I have before mentioned some cere-
monies of marriage ; but, from what I now learn,
these ceremonies would appear to be limited to parti-
cular tribeB : others have no ceremonies. The female
is at liberty to accept or refuse the male, and matches
are made without the intervention of the parents,
who, after the courtship, and the willingness of the
parties, cannot refuse their consent. The male
then presents to his father-in-law a present suited
to his circumstances, and the bride returns with
him to his house, when the ceremony, or no cere-
mony, is complete, and the marriage consummated,

Burning — In burning their dead, the Dyaka
have no ceremony or prayers; but they burn,
because they aver, that the smoke rises to the sky,
and to Jowata, or God.

Sept. 7 — At six o'clock in the evening, as the
sun set, Parimban and Pa Tummo closed their
earthly career. They were taken out to the rear

Dialed by Google

Chap. XIX.] DEATH OF FABLMBAN AND PA TCMMO.

of my houBe, and dispatched by the knives of the
rajah's followers. I could not help being shocked,
though the necessity was a stem one, and their
death merited. Besides, their release would have
entailed the destruction of numbers of my friends
and supporters.

Parimban died with courage. Pa Tummo shrank
from the execution of the sentence. Both were laid
in one grave.

Digged by Google

mb. Brooke's journal.

EXCURSION UP THE RIVERS. — MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. DTAK

RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. — CHINESE ESTABLISHMENTS. AN-
TIMONY ORE. HOME POLITICS . — REFLECTIONS. PREPARA-
TIONS FOR GOING TO SINGAPORE. — LEAVE SARAWAK.

ANAMBAS ISLANDS. ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE. BORNBAN

COAL. — SPECULATIONS ON BRITISH INTERFERENCE IN THE
ARCHIPELAGO. — LETTER TO MR. WISE. — NEWS OF A PIRATE
FLEET. — STEAK NAVIGATION IN THE ARCHIPELAGO. PROS-
PECTS OF FUTURE TRADE. — EXPEDITION AGAINST THE PIRATES.

HOSTILE COLLISION. — VISIT OP CAPTAIN KEFPEL TO MUDA

HABSIM. — GRAND NATIVE FESTIVAL. — RELICS OF THE TRIBE.

DEER AND WILD HOG SHOOTING. DEPARTURE OF THE

DIDO. — INFORMATION CONCERNING PIRACY. — ACCIDENT TO

THE SAHARANG. DIFFICULTY IN ENTERTAINING THE SHIP'S

COMPANY. ARRIVAL OF VESSELS. — SAIL FOB BORNEO. —

ATTEMPT TO OPEN A TRADE. PERPETUAL CESSION OF

SARAWAK. CHARACTER OF PANGERAN BUDRUDEEN.

Jan. 20. — I have now been nearly two years in
Sarawak, without moving beyond the boundary of
my newly adopted country, unless to punish the
wild tribes who hare made excursions across our
frontier.

I feel that so long and continuous a residence
amongst the people has consolidated my govern-
ment, and endeared me to the inhabitants of every
class — and I shall now prepare for an excursion
to the Straits, when, perhaps, I may interest the
mercantile community in my new settlement.

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] BANKS OF RIVERS. 335

During the close of last year, I had a visit from I843 -
my friend Elliot, who remained with me about two
months ; he had his observatory, his dipping
needles, his variation needles, and all the apparatus
of a man of science. During his stay, we went a
brief excursion up each river. The scenery on the
left bank is magnificent — its limestone precipices —
the dashing stream — the sylvan vistas of rock and
foliage — its diversified outline of peaks and moun-
tains. Between Sanpro and Sabungo is a lime-
stone cave, which goes beneath a mountain — dark
and dismal, but at the far extremity is a gothic
window, which might suit Tintern itself. One night
we passed at Sanpro. The Dyak inhabitants are
remarkably mild and amiable, and I had proof
positive that they do pray to Jowata. Small cups
of yellow rice, mixed with chilis, were presented
to me, and each touched in succession, and the
chiefs then scattered the contents, muttering a
prayer to the Supreme Being. I may mention
likewise tbat the Sanpros are, or claim to be, the
original stem whence the other Dyak tribes of
Sarawak are derived. On the right-hand river is
a scene of greater industry, and we visited the four
Chinese establishments of Siniawan, Tundong, Bow,
and Salingok. The first place is laid out in gardens
— the second the point whence the antimony ore is
embarked — and at the last two are gold mines. We
passed two nights with the Chinese, one at Salingok,
and one at Tundong, and nothing could exceed their
kindness and attention. I feel how well they are

Digged by Google

mr. brookr's journal. [Chap, xx.

disposed towards me, and how necessary I am to
their success. I likewise visited the locality of the
antimony ore, which lies at the foot of a limestone
hill, in boulders on the surface, or embedded some
depth. At the Simbok Kunsi's place, it is found
in a stiff clay in a valley, and at Bidi — the last I
have not yet seen, — the ore differs ; that of Bidi is
finer and closer grained; next is the limestone
mountain, worked by the Sanlku, less close in the
grain, and that in the clay is soft and porous, pro-
bably depending on the degree of pressure beneath
which it was originally cooled.

We ascended the Sarambo mountain. The
height of Panonjow Elliot made 1193 feet, and
giving 600 above, will make the mountain 1793.
From Panonjow is a view which well repays the
rough walk — mountain, and vale, and hillock,
rivers and sea, — such a prospect, and such a coun-
try ! Sarambo is granitic, in the midst of the moun-
tains of primitive limestone. Three Dyak tribes are
located here, viz., Sarambo, Bimbok, and Panonjow.

Of the home politics I may here remark, that
the great object now is to get rid of Makota, and
afterwards of the rajah, Muda Hassim ; when the
latter is gone, I doubt not Sadong, Sakarran, and
Sarebas will be insolent, but we can chastise them,
and if necessary, I doubt not, a league could be
formed of Sarawak, Singe, and Rejang against
them, offensive and defensive.

I have written this at the commencement of the
year. It might be more interesting, if I wrote

Digged by Google

Chaf. XX.] REGULATION OF PROPERTY. 38

every day, but I doubt whether the interest would ,8 **■
repay the trouble; and to be a regular built
journal keeper — a diary indicter — a person
must write con amove ; his mind must be at rest,
or at any rate, but pleasantly excited. My mind
is distracted and uneasy, not only with the business
and trouble; the risk, and all the other form of
annoyance, — but, above all, with the burden of
pecuniary responsibility. This is the stone which
drags my mind down; sink, sink, low spirits and
low fever, all about pounds, shillings, and pence.

The arrival of Dr. Treacher has been very op-
portune at this moment, though I do not exactly
see what arrangements are to be made for the
future establishment of our increasing community.
Whether property should be made into shares, and
so form a kind of primitive society, and then all
work independently; or whether it should be in
the shape of a joint-stock company, is a question yet
to be decided. I shall, however, proceed myself
very shortly to Singapore, for though I cannot but
feel, that whilst here I am the friend, the main-stay,
and benefactor of many, yet my presence, for a
short period in the straits may, in several ways, be
beneficial to my poor Dyaks. It is true, that the
happiness or misery of ten thousand of the inhabi-
tants of Borneo is a matter of very small interest
to the civilised world, and that a half per cent, rise
or fall in the three per cents, is of greater import-
ance than the life and death of these miserable
people; still the English public is a kind public,

Digged by Google

hb. bbooke's journal. [Chai-.xx.

and as I have no wild scheme or speculation to
propose or offer, perhaps my simple statements of
the present condition and future prospects of a
most interesting class of our fellow beings may be
listened to, and to the governor of Singapore, who is
both talented and liberal, I can always freely com-
municate my plans and sentiments.

January 25. — My preparations for starting are
completed, and to-morrow I shall hope to get
fairly off.

February 9. — We got clear of the Sarawak river
yesterday, and are now off the Anambas Islands,
which belong to the rajah of Linga. The natives
do not know the term " Anambas •" it is probably a
corruption or mistake of Amam-blas (sixteen) ; all
the smaller islands and islets have names, but it is
only the inhabitants who know them. Silk cloths,
sago, cocoa-nut oil, betel nuts, palm sugar, mats
and tortoiseshell, are produced, or manufactured,
at these groups. Fine boats are built at most of
the islands. The Orang-laut, or men of the sea,
live in their craft, as those at Singapore do in their
sanpans. With Anambas I now also include the
Katunas and Timbalans. We have now delicious
weather, cool and fresh, and every evening the
comet is seen with a tail of at least twenty degrees,
its bearing being about west-south by half south.
Should ^the breeze continue, I may reach the straits
to-morrow.

Singapore, March 31. — I have received long ar-
rears of correspondence from England. There

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] POLICr OP THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT.

seems to be great anxiety respecting the coal dis-
tricts in Borneo, and I am directed to make all
possible inquiries on the subject. This I will do
and also endeavour to procure an analysis of it. I
have already ascertained that there are two sorts
of coal, one of which, I believe, is equal to the best
Newcastle, and the other about the quality of the
Llanelly Welsh.

The proper course for the British government to
pursue would be, to obtain the monopoly of the
Borneo coal, with the cession of the island of La~
buan at the mouth of the Brune river ; and I feel
confident, that the sultan might easily be induced
to make this grant; indeed, in the present state
of Borneo Proper, the rajahs would cede any
amount of territory, provided there was a clause in
the agreement, promising British protection from
the pirates. It will probably be urged by the
Dutch, that under the treaty of 1824, no European
nation can hold land in Borneo, but it is evident
from the wording of the twelfth article, that it re-
fers solely to the islands to the south of Singapore,
which lie between that settlement and Java, for if
it were not so, both Australia and New Zealand are
within the limits specified.

With respect to Sarawak itself, I have freely
offered to transfer it to the British Crown, under
certain conditions, to be hereafter considered.
Should the British Government entertain my pro-
position, it will certainly be necessary to make new
arrangements with the sultan, as I now hold Sa-

Dignbd by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cur. XX.

rawak under the Crown of Borneo, but I foresee no
difficulty on this head, when the question shall be
seriously entertained; and what mighty results
might not accrue from decisive measures at the
present moment ! When I reflect on the past history
of the very spot on which I am now writing — on
Singapore ! What was it only a few short years
ago ? — a morass — a desert swamp ; but the
British flag was hoisted — it soon became populous,
and its prosperity since has been steadily in-
creasing. The same will, in some degree, be the
result in any Malay country, where the flag insures
protection to life and property.

The British Government may, by establishing a
post in the vicinity of the Borneo river, possess
themselves of the coal districts ; or, by friendly re-
lations with the sultan, the way may be paved for
taking the settlement when we please. I consider
this object as one of great importance hereafter, if
not immediately, and the danger is, that other
countries may act before we do ; indeed I cannot
disguise my impression, that both French and
Belgians would colonise, provided they had a good
opening. The Borneo rajahs, though reconciled
through my mediation, are only so apparently, and
will never go on long without dissension and strife,
and the losing party will, of course, appeal to the
English first, and afterwards to any European
power that will reinstate them. The letters which
I have received from Mr. Wise are satisfactory,
and though he seems to be anxious for further in-

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] LETTEB TO ME. WISE. 341

formation respecting my title to the government of 18 * s -
Sarawak, and entertains an opinion at variance
with my own, on a few points connected with my
new position in that quarter, I feel sure that our
views are not, in the main, dissimilar. I entirely
approve of his correspondence with the govern-
ment, and have consequently written him a letter,
of which the following is a copy : —

" Singapore, March, 1843.

" Your letter to Sir Robert Peel was all it ought
to have been, and in case you gain an interview, I
doubt not you will make a degree of impression ;
but it takes time to move a government, suspicious
from the number of wily plans laid before it for
consideration. I know my position — I greatly
desire to have it recognised; but if recognition
depend upon flattery, I will it not ; if truth and
candid dealing will not do it, I am willing that
it should be left undone.

" I do not see why this opening should not lead
to results similar to those which have taken place in
India itself. Regarding expense and outlay, I may
say that a steamer, a fort, and a few men will be
necessary. There cannot be a doubt but that a
large proportion of the Sambas Chinese would flock
hither, and that a junk trade with China would be
considerable. I may mention that, of course, I
should stipulate for kind treatment of the Dyaks,
and the reserve of certain portions of land for the
small Malay population of Sarawak.

" My private news b good. We decidedly

Digged by Google

MB. BROOKE'S JOURKAL. [Chap. XX.

flourish and advance. We are peaceable, and
justice is maintained, and security afforded.

" The reason why I did not earlier make known
my position and views, arose from reluctance to
appeal to the Government or the public, until I
had tested their stability. Now I can fairly say,
that if one person can hold the country for a year,
how easy would it be with a moderate force. I
hope they will give me some assistance, or at any
rate a recognition.

" In the event of your expectation of success
being realised, you may rest assured that the ar-
rangements will be easily effected. It must be
remembered, likewise, that holding Sarawak under
the Crown of Borneo, a new arrangement muBt be
made with the sultan before it can pass into the
hands of the British. No difficulty exists ; and in
the present state of Borneo Proper, for British
protection against pirates and against themselves,
the rajahs would cede any quantity of territory."

May 1. —We had information yesterday of a
large pirate fleet being on the Borneo coast, and
Mr. Church, the resident councillor, has forwarded
the intelligence to Captain Keppel, who will shortly
be here, and, as I know their cruising ground, it is
not unlikely that her Majesty's ship Dido may
come across them. A steamer has been in the
roads from Manilla, for sale, an ugly vessel, for
which the owners demand eighty thousand dollars,
or sixteen thousand pounds sterling. The price is
frightful ; and one of half the size, built of iron,

Digged by Google

Cup. XX.] PROSPECTS OS INCREASED TRADE.

and drawing very little water, would answer my
purpose better. Perhaps, some day, I may yet have '
the satisfaction of seeing such a one floating on the
waters of Sarawak. The thought of a steam com-
munication with Borneo brings many reflections.
What might not be performed with this auxiliary !
As time advances, I myself get more confident about
ultimate success. I feel assured that, in com-
parison with any other native power, my position
is one of security and strength ; but at the same
time I clearly perceive that, for the development
of the country, greater means are requisite than I
possess or can command, and that I cannot give that
confidence to settlers and capitalists which would
result from recognition by Government. I can,
however, make the people happy, Bave them from
plunder, protect them from wrong, and afford
security to life and properly, and with this I ought,
in reason, to be content. I have already made
arrangements for one or two Chinese junks visiting
Sarawak next season, and the advent of the Chinese
will give an impetus to the Malay and Dyak po-
pulation, for they can dispose of their products at
Singapore rates. I find the Chinese anxious to
come, on account of the number of junks yearly
arriving at Singapore having considerably lowered
the profits on trade ; and they, like ourselves, re-
quire fresh outlets. If the British Government
accede to my views, the entire coast of Borneo will
fall under our influence; and our influence, pro-
perly used, will gradually open river after river to a

Digged by Google

344 MB- BROOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XX.

IMS. direct trade, and each of these streams is an artery
~ from the interior. At present the pulsation is but

feeble, but the full current of commercial freedom
would soon raise it to a healthy flux and reflux.

Protect the rajahs, settle the succession if ap-
pealed to on the subject, give a little money in
proper quarters, and mix cheerfully and kindly
amongst them, and you may get from them what-
ever you require ; for the valuable staple articles
they would give are of no value to themselves.

The field is new, and is clearly open to British
enterprise; for there never has been a question
about Borneo and Celebes being open to us ; and
why such indifference exists on so important a sub*
ject is to me inconceivable.
June i. June 1. Sarawak. — I resume my Journal again,

after having laid it aside for a few weeks. Of my
residence at Singapore it will be unnecessary for
me to say more than that I received every attention
from the governor, and assurance from him of his
anxiety to forward my views for the suppression of
piracy and for the advancement of commerce ; and
that I might rely on his affording the assistance of
the Honourable Company's steamers placed at his
disposal, when they could be spared from other
essential duties. +*'

It was at Pinang that I became acquainted with
my friend Keppel- I do not dwell on the circum-
stance of the growth of the kind feelings I learned
to entertain for him, or his voluntary and most
generous offer of bringing the Dido to the coast of

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] GRAND NATIVE FESTIVAL. 34i

Borneo for the extirpation of piracy. That offer I 1843 -
gladly accepted ; and, during our passage across, I
was proud of the opportunity of guiding him to the
haunts of Balanini pirates. We had the fortune
to fall in with two small fleets : the first, of Ave
large proas, each pulling about fifty oars, fled from
us and escaped j the next, of six war vessels, at-
tacked the boats, and in seven or eight minutes got
ten men killed and twenty wounded. This will
have shown Keppel the frightful state of the coast,
and the necessity of active measures. He seems to
be just the man for the work ; for, with plenty of
dash, his manners are so conciliatory towards the
natives as quite to win their hearts. He has now
been introduced to the rajah, Muda Hassim, with
all native honours, on shore, and the rajah has re-
turned the visit, and been received with a royal
salute on board the Dido ; and subsequently to this
interchange of civilities, we have made an excursion
up the river, to occupy the time which we required
to prepare the native boats for the expedition to
the Sarebas, and thus Keppel has had an oppor-
tunity of seeing something of the Dyaks in the
interior. We visited several tribes, and at Sarambo
were fortunate enough to witness a grand festival.
On this occasion the women danced with the men,
and seemed to enjoy our presence exceedingly. At
the end of their short petticoats were jingling bits
of brass, which kept " making music " wherever
they went. The dance was performed by four
men, two bearing human skulls, and two the fresh

Digged by Google

346 mk. brooke's journal, [ceu. xx.

1843, severed heads of pigs. Several women bore wax
lights on brass dishes, or yellow rice. They danced
in line, moving slowly backwards and forwards,
and carrying the heads and dishes in both hands ;
and at times the women knelt in a group, with the
men leaning over them. What I particularly re-
marked, however, was the relics of the tribe, de-
posited in a small room at one end of the apartment
where they danced. These consisted of several
smooth stones, resembling the priapus of the Hin-
doos, some deer s' horns, and other inferior trumpery.
The stones are very like those so frequently seen in
the temples in India, and here they are held in the
highest veneration ; but the only account I could
get about the matter was, that they had descended
from their ancestors, when they first became a
tribe, or when they first inhabited the mountain.
The tribe, however, could not exist : sickness and
plagues, and war and defeat, would follow the
destruction of these sacred relicB.

I was also able to show Keppel some deer and
wild hog shooting ; where but two years ago I had
seen them in numbers, we now only found them
after much hard walking and fatigue, and con-
sequently the sport was not very good. It was,
however, satisfactory to me to know, that the
scarcity of the game was entirely owing to the
continued peace enjoyed by these warlike tribes,
which had enabled them to cultivate large tracts of
country, formerly overrun with a wilderness of
jungle. At the end of the month we returned to

Digged by Google

Csap.XX.] EXPEDITION AGAINST THE PIRATES. 34i

Sarawak, and found all in readiness for the cam- 1M8 -
paign against Sarebas. ~

As Mr. Brooke gives no detail in bis Journals of Captain
the campaign to which he has just alluded, I shall H^in
here introduce a short extract from Captain Kep-
pel's Diary of the " Expedition of the Dido," which
I venture to say will be found most interesting.

11 The force from the Dido consisted of her pin-
nace, two cutters, and a gig, besides the ' Jolly
Bachelor,' lent us by Mr. Brooke, carrying a long
six-pounder, and thirty of our men : the commis-
sariat and ammunition being conveyed in a large
tope of thirty-five tons. The native force was ex-
tensive, about a thousand men; including the
Bomeans, the Dyaks of Lundu, Sow, Singe, &c.
Lieutenant Horton was to command the expedition.
The force from the Dido was about eighty ofiicers
and men. The command of boats, when sent away
from a man-of-war, is the perquisite of the first-
lieutenant. My curiosity, however, would not
allow me to resist the temptation of attending in
my gig, and I had my friend Brooke as my com-
panion. The whole formed a novel, picturesque,
and exciting scene, and it was curious to con-
template the different feelings that actuated the
separate and distinct parties. The odd mixture of
Europeans, Malays, and Dyaks; the different re-
ligions, and the eager and anxious manner in which
all pressed forward. The novelty of the thing was

Digged by Google

348 CAPTAIN MUNDy'S NARRATIVE. [Chap. XX.

1843. quite enough for our Jacks, after having been
~~ cooped up bo long on board ship, to say nothing of

the chance of a broken head. We did not get
far up the river on the first day, as the tope was
very slow, and carried the moat essential part of all
expeditions — the commissariat. Every thing was
in order, and, as we advanced, I pulled from one
end of my little fleet to the other, and felt much
the same sort of pride as Sir William Parker must
have experienced, when leading seventy-five sail of
British ships up the Yeang-tse-Keang river into the
very heart of the Celestial Empire. Moving
leisurely on with the flood tide, we brought up for
the night at a place called Holing ; but here the
river presented a troublesome and dangerous ob-
stacle in what is called the ' bore,' caused by the
tide coming in with a tremendous rush, as if an
immense wave of the sea had suddenly rolled up
the stream, and, finding itself confined on either
side, extended across like a high bank of water,
curling and breaking as it went ; and, from the
frightful velocity with which it passes up, carrying
all before it. We were now fairly in the enemy's
country. At Boling we left our tope, strongly
guarded, and having provisioned our boats for six
days, we started, a smaller and more select party
than before, but in our opinion equally formidable.
Our force now consisted of the Dido's boats, the
three datus from Sarawak, and some Sow Dyaks,
eager for heads and plunder. We arrived at our
first resting place early in the afternoon. I secured

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] MAGNIFICENT SCENE.

my gig to the buik at some little distance from my
fleet of boats; and, by myself, contemplated my
novel position, — in command of a mixed force of
500 men, and some seventy miles up a river in the
interior of Borneo, — on the morrow, about to carry
all the horrors of war amongst a race of savage
pirates, whose country no force had ever yet dared
to invade, and who for more than a century had
been inflicting, with impunity, every sort of cruelty
on all whom they encountered. As the sun
went down, the scene was beautiful, animated by
the variety and picturesque appearance of the na-
tive prahus, and the praying of the Musulman,
with his face in the direction of the prophet's tomb,
bowing his bead to the deck of his boat and ab-
sorbed in devotions, from which nothing could
withdraw his attention. For a time, it being that
of preparing the evening meal, no noise was made,
it was a perfect calm, and the rich foliage was
reflected in the water as in a mirror ; while a small
cloud of smoke ascended from each boat, to say
nothing of that from my cigar, which added much
to the charm I then experienced. Late in the
evening, when the song and joke passed from boat
to boat, and the lights from the different fires were
reflected in the water, the scenery was equally
pleasing ; but later still, when the lights were out,
there being no moon, and the banks overhung with
trees, it was so dark, that no one could see beyond
his own boat. Thus ended the tenth of June."
The above extract, written in simple and feeling

Digged by Google

350 MB. BBOOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Chap. XX.

1S43 - language, places the whole scene at once before the
reader, and I much regret, that want of space will
prevent my transcribing at length, the subsequent
operations which were completely successful in
every branch.

On the twelfth, Faddi was captured and burnt.
— On the fourteenth, Paku was destroyed — and on
the seventeenth, Remhas was taken by assault, with
few casualties on our side, but considerable loss on
the part of the enemy. Many guns and war-boats
were also taken, the largest of the prahus, measur-
ing ninety-two feet in length, by fourteen feet
beam ; and the plunder which fell into the hands
of our native allies was immense.

With the fall of Rembas, the warlike operations
terminated. The pirate-chiefs came into the terms
proposed by Mr. Brooke, and the expedition re-
turned to Sarawak; shortly after which the
Dido sailed for Singapore. I now proceed with
Mr. Brooke's Journal.

July 1 . — The Dido has departed, and I am
again alone ; but from information received, I may
shortly expect H.M.S. Samarang, Captain Sir
Edward Belcher, who is ordered to visit Sarawak,
and report thereon to government. If he will
afterwards proceed to Brune, I feel confident that
he will be able to re-open a once valuable source of
trade. The more I reflect on this important sub-
ject, the more I am convinced, that an extensive
commerce with Borneo Proper might readily be

Digged by GOOglC

Chap. XX.] POLITICAL PROSPECTS.

established. I am alao desirous of obtaining the
cession of Sarawak in perpetuity, as it must even-
tually benefit my country, and I do not conceive
that there will be much difliculty, or much ex-
pense with the rajahs of Borneo j I am supreme,
and they will grant what I require. How different
is the manner of obtaining property here to that of
civilised Europe ; of the pangerans and great chiefs,
six out of seven seize upon territory, and live in
opeu defiance of the authority of their rulers with
impunity, and, therefore, they are prepared to
cede a portion of lands, which to them are useless,
to any other chief who will assist in establishing
their power. I firmly believe, that if I desired it,
I might have a dozen rivers besides the Sarawak,
and if the British flag be once hoisted at any point
along these shores, trade and prosperity will
quickly follow; but with my government alone,
the development must be slow, and not very sure ;
depending, as it does, entirely on my own life. I
have lately received much local information re-
lative to piracy, and find that in many places
where the inhabitants themselves are not addicted
to that crime, that encouragement is nevertheless
given to Tegular pirates to visit them periodically.
The chiefs of rivers who encourage piracy, serve
to foster it in a remarkable degree. Of these,
Sheriff Sahib of Sadong is certainly the worst, and
I am now convinced that Dyak piracy must be
suppressed by a blow struck at him. The mischiefs
and evils perpetrated by this man have been very
great ; he was the planner, the mover, the sharer of

d by Google

MB. BROOKE S JOUKNAL. [Chap. XX.

plunder of all the expeditions against the unhappy
Hill Dyaks : and so great was, and even now is, his
repute with the Sakarran Dyaks, that the name
they have bestowed on him is Bajong Brani, or the
brave Bachelor, after their favourite bird of omen.
Would that Eeppel had remained to finish his
good work ! I parted with him with the greatest
regret. It is to his honour, that what he did was
done on his own responsibility, and I am glad to
add, that he received the thanks and approbation
of the commander-in-chief.

Aug. I The Saraarang arrived in the middle

of last month, and Sir Edward Belcher was ushered
on the stage where I act my little drama. I re-
solved to show him and tell him every thing he
desired to see or learn, and to leave the rest to hia
decision. I have, therefore, given him in writing a
brief outline of my general views, which I hope he
will forward to government whenever he may make
his official report ; for brief and barren as my state-
ment may be, still a report without it would be
useless unless he remains many months for the
purpose of obtaining personal and practical know-
ledge of the country and of the natives. It is
absolutely necessary in order to gain anything like
really useful information, that much time and pa-
tience be given to the task, and all investigation
and inquiry should be conducted in a calm and
candid manner, and this, I trust, will be effectually
carried out by the officer appointed to examine my
position.

Digged by Google

Chap. XX.] ACCIDENT TO THB SAMABANG. 353

Sept. 1. 1843. — The Samarang has been up iwa-
the river. Sir Edward met the rajah, and the rajah g^ ,
visited Sir Edward. We passed a few days on the
right-hand branch of the river, visited the Chinese
settlements and Sarambo, and then returned, as
the necessity of sailing was so great as to preclude
all further inquiry. Sir Edward saw a small part
of the country. I presume he was satisfied, and I
conclude made a highly favourable report to the
Admiralty. So far all was well. The Samarang
on Monday morning, dropping down the river, got
on the rocks within sight of ray house, and, falling
over with the ebb tide, filled. In the evening
officers and men were ashore, and I had some dif-
ficulty in stowing and feeding them. Eleven days
she was in this situation, when the spring tides
and hard work got her afloat again. The fatigue
and exposure endured by the officers and men were
great, and the loss of property by the former much
to be lamented. I found the officers very gentle-
manlike and amiable, and my only regret is, that
my small means enabled me to do so little towards
their comfort in such uncomfortable circumstances,
What I could do, however, I did, and they ad-
dressed me a letter from the gun-room, signed by
the members of the mess, thanking me. This, with
my answer, they wished to put into the papers ; but
I prevented them, for what could the public have
to do with any little courtesy I might offer. Sure
am I, had I not done every thing in my power to

vol. u A A

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE'S JOUBNAL. [Cur. XX.

assist them, I should have been a brute. Fatigue
and exposure brought on sickness amongst the
men. The Royalist was despatched to Singapore
for provisions and aid, the passage there and back
■was made in twelve days, and the Harlequin, Cap-
tain the Hon. George Hastings came with the
Royalist. The Samarang was, however, off the
rock. After the Harlequin came the Company's
steamer, Diana, then after an interval followed
H. M. S. Wanderer, Captain Seymour, and last
of all H. M. steamer Vixen from China direct.
These, with the Royalist and Ariel (merchant
vessel) made a fleet such as never before rode on
the waters of Sarawak. We were now ready for a
start for Borneo Proper. I sailed in the Samarang
on the 23d of August, the Harlequin, Vixen, Roy-
alist, and Ariel, were to keep company, and the
Wanderer returned to Singapore. 1 may here
mention my young friend Brereton, who was a su-
pernumerary in the Samarang, and left her to join
his own vessel the Wanderer. Young and deli-
cate he soon fell sick, and I was glad to take care
of him, for, if ever the ties of relationship (how-
ever distant) claimed kindness and care it was
here. We are now off the river Brune, and events
of importance will soon be decided one way or the
other.

Oct. 1. — We sailed for Borneo — quite an im-
posing fleet, and one sufficient to terrify the natives
of the .entire archipelago. Our passage was favour-
able, and I was very comfortable on board the

, Google

Chap. XX.] ABRIVAL OF VESSELS. 355

Samarang. I found the condition of the capital is* 3 -
worse than last year — the parties were more " *
marked, their dissensions greater, their conceal-
ments less, and the desire of most for the return
of Muda Hasaim more apparent. The reason of
this is, that Pangeran Usop aims at acquiring
power, and ultimately possession of the throne.

Sir Edward Belcher met the Sultan without dis-
play, on account of the small pox raging in the
town. The interview lasted for half an hour, and
was succeeded by a dinner, not bad of its kind ;
that ended, the party returned, with the exception
of myself and a few others. The day following I
rejoined the Samarang, and for some days Sir
Edward was busy in determining situations and
surveying.

On the 4th September the Samarang and Har-
lequin, in tow of the Vixen, left the anchorage of
Moarra, and I believe anchored subsequently off
the island of Labuan, to examine the harbour.

We tried to open a trade for the Ariel, but found
it impossible, as Pangeran Usop intrigued to mono-
polise the cargo, and to dole it out to the people at
a profit j this was resisted by others, and between
them there was no trade to be had. The last few
days of our stay, people of their own accord came
to the brig and brought goods ; and it was inti-
mated just before we sailed that the trade should
be opened ; but we had already been delayed too
long, so the offer was refused, and a boat with 100
or 200 pounds of produce was sent off, after re-

Dig,ii,cd by Google

356 mk. brooee's journal. [Chap, xx.

1843. ceiving which we got under weigh, and with fa-
vourable weather anchored off Sarawak on the
23d of September.

The little trade in Borneo convinced us all how
much might be done there, under more favourable
circumstances. The principal object of my visit
had been obtained ; Sarawak was ceded to me in
perpetuity, and the rajahs of Borneo addressed
a letter to the British government, expressing their
desire to be friendly, to open trade, and to suppress
piracy ; but until permanent arrangements are
made, these assurances cannot be relied on. Mean-
while I must lie upon my oars, until the English
government decides how much, or how little, it in-
tends doing ; and how far I am to become a party
in its arrangements. I am, however, not idle, but
endeavour to gain all the information I can, and
to lay matters in the fairest possible train, by
keeping up an influence and interest over Muda
Hassim the sultan's uncle. I do not And much
difficulty in this task, for he is well-inclined to the
English, and desires us to protect and Bupport him,
and will pay, in territory, for this assistance ; be-
sides this, my sway over him is very great, and
just such a sway as a moderately firm mind and
firm conduct, with conciliation, will acquire over a
vacillatory and timid person.

Of Pangeran Budrudeen I have formed the
highest opinion ; he has the amicable and easy
temper of his brother, Muda Hassim, and with it
combines decision and abilities quite astonishing in

lignbcd by Google

Chap. XX.] BIB STAMFORD BAFFLES.

a native prince, and a directness of purpose seldom
found in an Asiatic. As a companion, I have ever
found him superior to most of those about me, and
there is something particularly interesting in
sounding the depths and the shallows of an intel-
ligent native mind, and observing them free from the
trammels of court etiquette. It is essential to the
good government of the natives, to treat them on
a footing of equality. On this point most Euro-
peans are grievously wanting ; they always adhere
to their own customs, feelings, and manners, and
in a way force the natives to conform to them, and
never give themselves the trouble of ascertaining
how far these manners or habits are repugnant
to the prejudices of Eastern people. I have seen
so much of this want of consideration for native
customs, that, had I power, I should be careful in
the selection of persons to govern a new native
country, and very severe on any display of harsh-
ness and severity. When we desire to improve and
elevate a people, how ignorant of the first impulse
of the human mind to treat them as an inferior
race *, and yet this is too generally the nature of
European rule in Asiatic countries. There are,
indeed, brilliant exceptions, and amongst them I
name Sir Stamford Raffles, Mr. Crawrard, and
Colonel Farquhar, all of whom are still remembered,
especially the first, with affection by the elder
natives ; and in places where they are known only
by name, they are respected and talked of in the
warmest terms of esteem and attachment.

Digged by Google

MR. BROOKE ATTACKED WITH FEVER. [Chat. XXI

BREAK IN MIL BROOKES JOURNAL. BE 18 ATTACKED WITH

FEVER. — LEAVES SARAWAK FOR SINGAPORE. MOVES ON TO

PEN AN Q. — THREATENING EXPEDITION AGAINST ACHEEN. MR.

BROOKE ACCOMPANIES IT. NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE KINO.

— HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. MR. BROOKE WOUNDED. —

THE EXPEDITION ABANDONED. — MR- BROOKE RETURNS TO

SINGAPORE. — JOURNAL RESUMED. THE 1.1NGA RIVER.

INTERIOR CONSTITUTION OP SARAWAK DYAKS. POLITICS.

MINING SPECULATIONS. OTHER RIVERS OF BORNEO. — DIF-
FERENT TRIBES. — TNL AND GOVERNMENTS. NATIVE CHIEFS

BDtD ISLAND. DESERTED RIVER. FORMER INHABITANTS OP

8IBUTOW. — PROSPERITY OF SARAWAK, — CHINESE. — POLICT
OF REMOVING MUDA HASBUI TO BORNEO PROPER. — SADONG. —

MALAT POPULATION OF BAKARRAN. PIRATICAL DTAKS

SIR 1. RAFFLES' OPINION CONCERNING ARAB INFLUENCE.

SUGGESTIONS FOR PROTECTION. — RETURN OF THE SAMARANG.

EXCURSION TO LABUAN. SPECULATIONS ON ITS SITUATION.

AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN. — OFFER OF THE CESSION OP
LABUAN. — VISIT TO AMBONG. RETURN TO SARAWAK.

1844. Mr. Brooke's journal breaks off in the month of
" ; October of last year, as seen by the termination of
MwidY> the chapter just concluded, and he does not resume

Narrative

it till the 1st of July in this year; it will, there-
fore, be necessary for me to give some account of
his movements during the interval.

It appears from other documents now before me
that, in consequence of a sudden attack of fever,
Mr. Brooke left Sarawak early in January, and
proceeded to Singapore for change of air and scene,
and having, on his arrival there, heard that the

Digged by Google

Chap. XXI.] MR. BROOKE RETURNS TO SINGAPORE.

commander in chief, Sir William Parker, was at
Penang, he accepted the offer of Captain Seymour,
and went on to that island in the Wanderer. In
February the admiral despatched the two brigs, the
Harlequin and Wanderer, under the orders of com-
mander the Honourable George Hastings, to Ac-
heen, in Sumatra, for the purpose of demanding
satisfaction from the king, for the pillage of an
Arab brig under English protection, whilst at
anchor in the roadstead of Qualla Batta.

Mr. Brooke, from a belief that his knowledge
of the native language might be useful in the
negotiation, volunteered to accompany the ex-
pedition; and this spirited offer having been ac-
cepted by Sir William Parker, he embarked in the
Wanderer, thereby giving Captain Hastings the
benefit of his Oriental experience. On arrival at
. Acheen, the king and his ministers were apprised
of the object of the mission, and promised to give
the required redress; but after waiting several
days, it appeared that there was no real intention
of acting; evasive answers were returned, and
excuses of the most frivolous kind given for delay.
The vessels consequently left the port of Acheen,
and sailed direct for Qualla Batta, where, after a
fruitless attempt at negotiation, it was decided that
hostile measures must be had recourse to. A party
landed from the brigs, attacked the place, and
burnt the house of the chief and the public build-
ings, and then, re-embarking, proceeded to the
town of Murdu, where an English brig, called the

Digged by Google

CAPTAIN MUNDT'S NAHRATIVE. [Chap. XXL

Robert Spankie, had been pillaged some months
before. The same demands were here made for
reparation, but were met with a positive refusal.
The force was again landed, but encountered con-
siderable opposition from the natives, who collected
in great numbers on the banks of the river or
creek to dispute the landing, and firing through the
jungle at the boats, as they moved up, by which
two of the men were killed and eight wounded,
amongst the latter Lieutenant Chads, of the Harle-
quin (a true chip of the old block), severely ; and
Mr. Brooke, also, in two places.

Numbers of the enemy were killed; but the
action taking place on the verge of the jungle,
and on muddy and swampy ground, it was im-
possible to follow up the advantage, and it was
therefore deemed advisable to discontinue the con-
test. The town of Murdu was then destroyed, and
the boats afterwards regained the ships.

Having returned to Pinang, Mr. Brooke took
leave of the admiral, and then proceeded to Sing-
apore, where he waited the arrival of the Dido
from Calcutta. When that vessel came in, she was
found to be laden with treasure for China, and as
Keppel could not then receive Mr. Brooke on
board, he embarked in the Harlequin early in May,
and proceeded direct to Sarawak. Off the coast
they found the Sakarran and Sarebas Dyak fleet
ready to commence their piratical course ; but as
the instructions of Captain Hastings did not admit
of the delay necessary to receive the native force
from Sarawak, this large fleet of 200 proas reas-

),g,i„cd by Google

Chap. XXI.] JOUHKAL RESUMED. 361

cended the river, and Mr. Brooke returned to his 1844 -
own government and patiently awaited the arrival
of the Dido.

Sarawak, July 1. 1844. — Afteralong pause Ire- Juij i.
commence my Journal, having returned here again ***■ ' ,
with my health much restored by the change of air Jounwi.
and scene. The intermediate time since I last
wrote has been filled up with some personal ad-
ventures, but no events of moment have occurred
in Sarawak. I may briefly mention an excursion
to Sumatra in H. M. B. Wanderer — combat at
Murdu — wounded, return to Pinang, meeting
with Keppel and the Dido, and my disappoint-
ment after much delay at Singapore at not being
able to come here in that vessel ; however, the
Harlequin brought me over, and I am once more
in my own house after an absence of nearly six
months. It will now be interesting to retrace the
events within and without Sarawak during this time ;
and, in order to their more perfect understanding,
I must briefly mention the positions of the various
rivers on the coast, the characters of their rulers
and inhabitants, and their political relation to
Sarawak ; but let me in the first place remark, that
the internal prosperity of the country has been
steadily and rapidly advancing in spite of many
and serious obstacles. The town has increased to
three times its original size, and the Malay popu-
lation, with their foreign and domestic trade, their
employment in washing for gold and working an-

d by Google

MB. BBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Cilu\ XXI.

timony ore, and with the demand for labour, is,
with moderate industry (the industry of a Malay)
not only able to live comfortably, but to grow rich.
Forced labour, or any exactions, may be said to be
abolished amongst them, and as they are without
taxes, they pay by occasionally serving in boats
against their enemies. I may also remark the in-
frequency of crime, and the few robberies which
are committed (not more perhaps than six or
eight in a year) are generally traced to relations
of the parties occupying the same house.

The Linga river is, or was, governed by its self-
constituted chief, Sheriff Jaffer. His people are
not numerous, the proper Malays not exceeding one
hundred males. The Balow Dyaks inhabit the
interior ; a warlike but well disposed race, re-
sembling the Sitagows, not inclined to piracy, and
amounting to about one thousand warriors. They
are the sworn foes of Sarebas, and occasionally of
Sakarran, with whom they carry on a war of ex-
termination, principally, however, defensive on the
part of the Balows, who are greatly outnumbered ;
but from their own account, which is corroborated
by the Malays, they are a match in their proas for
double the quantity of the Sarebas or Sakarran.
Fire arms are very rare amongst them. In the
interior of the Linga river is a communication with
Santang, or the Pontiana; and from the native
account, which states the distance at a short day's
walk, it cannot exceed thirty-five miles, and is
probably less.
Proceeding up the Batang Lupar from the en-

Dignbd by Google

Chap. XXI.] THE UNDOP RIVER.

trance of the Linga for about a tide, is the junc-
tion of the Sakarran. The Bdtang Lupar runs to
the right, and the Sakarran to the left, from the
latter of which the Dyak tribe takes its name.
Not far distant from the Linga entrance is the
Motusan, where the river has found a new bed, and
further up is the small river of Undop, on the
right-hand ascending. The river is represented as
broad and rapid, with shallow sand banks. The
bore is said to be severe at full and change of the
moon, but it is probable the natives may exagger-
ate its force, and at any rate there are spots
where it does not break. The channel of the river
is of considerable depth, and not less than twelve
or fourteen feet. Beyond the junction of Batang
Lupar and Sakarran, the stream narrows and
deepens, the bore ceasing here, and both branches,
it is said, run a long way into the interior, and it
may be, that the Sakarran has an outlet to the
Reang, or Egan river.

Sheriff Mullar, an elder brother of Sheriff Sahib,
is the self-constituted chief of Sakarran, and, with
about a hundred and fifty Malays, has his settle-
ment at the junction ; but he had little control over
the Sakarran Dyaks, was obliged to wink at their
piracies, and the Malays with him encouraged and
accompanied them on their predatory excursions.
Sheriff Mullar, from his inferiority of force, was
subservient to his brother, Sheriff Sahib ; and the
Dyaks of Sakarran looked up to the latter as their
chief as long as he encouraged them and par-

Dignbd by Google

364 mb. buooke's joubnal. [Cur. xxi.

l"**- ticipated in their profits. These Dyaks are very
numerous, (not fewer, perhaps, than ten thousand
males), and the only distinction to be mentioned
is, that the tribes on the Batang Lupar, are less
predatory than those of the Sakarran, who were
always in the strictest league with the Sarebas,
and the two rivers, in the interior, approach very
near to each other. Whenever a large force was
fitting out in Sarebas, the volunteers from Sa-
karran joined them, and vice versa, and on making
any grand excursions, the prahus of the two rivers
met at a given point, which was generally the
Sakarran river. The combined fleet is moderately
stated at 201 prahus.

A Bhort distance beyond the Batang Lupar is the
entrance of Sarebas, which I have before described,
and I need here only say, that it is a branch of the
sea, fifty miles up. The Sarebas rulers have, since
their defeat last year, been to Sarawaka, and re-
gularly (or irregularly) established as patingi,
Laksemana and Bandar, but they have not yet re-
turned to their government. The Dyaks, since
their defeat, have been quiet, only a few having
joined the Sakarrans in their predatory excursions.

The next river, and close to the entrance of Sa-
rebas is Kaluka. It is a small place, under the
government of Rejang, and the residence of an
Arab priest, by title called Mollana, who manages
its affairs. The last place I shall mention here is
the Rejang river, represented as a fine stream,
twenty miles from the mouth of which is Seriki,

ii, Google

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Chap. XXI.] POLITICS.

the residence of Patingi Abdulraman. The Malays
are numerous and flourishing, with a considerable
trade, and the interior is peopled by Kayans of va-
rious tribes. Rejang is the only river that has not
been ruined by the Bornean rajahs, Arab chiefs, and
pangerans, and which has continued under the rule
of a native gentleman of the middling class, adding
one more example to the many of the superior rule
of the native patingi to the chief, who may be said
to be a foreigner. I do not intend to say that it is
good, but it is so by comparison.

Patingi Abdulraman has held himself aloof from
Sheriff Sahib, and consequently incurred the impo-
tent anger and hatred of that chief. He has never
allowed piracy, or received pirates, and has always,
been in a feeble and desultory way, at war with the
Sarebas and Sakarran Dyaks. ' Beyond Rejang is
Mato, a small river, and then Tanjong Sirik or
Sisor.

Sheriff Osman, an Arab, is the self-constituted
ruler of the northern part of Borneo, and portions
of Palawan. He is, by all accounts, rapacious, op-
pressive, and piratical, directly or indirectly. His
town in Malludu Bay is the stage of the Balanini,
who are said, on their outset on a cruise, to receive
food and arms from this worthy, repaying the ad-
vance in slaves or plunder. It must not be for-
gotten, that a boat of the Sultana was cast ashore
at this sheriff's town, after that vessel was burnt,
and that the crew were all sold as slaves. The
Arab I met at Tampasuk was one of the number,

Digged by Google

Mil. KBOOKE'S JOURNAL. [Chat. XXL

and for an Arab to Bell an Arab is a heinous crime.
The pirates of Tampasuk bought him for five
hundred pieces of nankin, and treated him so well
that he refused to quit them.

Besides the Malays of Sarawak, and those of the
contiguous rivers residing here, there is a small
population of Chinese and Klings, who keep small
shops, or raise vegetables. Of the Chinese Kunsi
I cannot speak so favourably, for, although they
are peaceful and well behaved, they do not produce
the gold they undoubtedly get, and are extremely
backward in paying their debts and revenue. This
may be accounted for in several ways, and I still
entertain every hope that their settlement will be
final and prosperous. When we consider that a
body of two hundred beggars, without food or the
means of purchasing it, enter a new and wild
country on a mining speculation, we shall cease to
feel surprised at their slow progress, or the debts
which they must inevitably incur. The Chinese
are indefatigable and desperate miners, and they
will run every risk and many hardships to procure
gold. The speculation in mines here, as elsewhere,
is slow and uncertain, and many a spot is tried,
and afterwards rejected as not producing sufficient
of the precious metal; and thus their labour is
commenced, completed, and recommenced, before
it is crowned with ultimate success.

In this pursuit they will borrow money on every
side, with promises to repay, which may never be
fulfilled, and expect the support and assistance

Digged by Google

Chip. XXL] MINING SPECULATIONS.

of the ruler of the country. Here the working
of antimony has, in some measure, eased their
expenses, and allowed them a certain yearly sum
for the benefit of their men ; but the larger the
scale on which they work the ore, the less in pro-
portion they work gold, unless with an increase
of men and expense. "What leads me to hope well,
however, of their ultimate success, is, that the two
hundred beggars who originally came here, and
struggled for many months with difficulties and
even partial starvation, are now, comparatively
speaking, comfortable, if they do not pay their
debt to me. I hear no more of their difficulties,
and though they be reluctant to show gold, it
still finds a circulation in small quantities in the
country. Another and more convincing proof is,
that their numbers have increased from 200 to 400
at least, and that they have two stationary mines,
which they regularly work, and which, consequently,
we know must be paying. I repeat, therefore,
that I hope they will be ultimately prosperous, and
to forward the work, they should be harassed as
little as possible for any outstanding debts they
may have incurred at the outset.

Here, likewise, it may be mentioned that the
tone they adopt at present is very different from
what it formerly was, and that they are humble
and obedient, and in no way consider themselves
independent of the Government. The greatest
drawback is their connection with Sambas, the
democratical institutions, and the great secrecy

Digged by Google

me. brooke's journal, [Cux.xxi.

they observe in all their transactions. Stall, I
repeat, I hope well, and that patience and time will
ripen the pear.

With respect to the Dyaks of my territory, the
gentle and peaceably disposed Dyaks have greatly
and satisfactorily improved in their present condi-
tion ; exposed as they were, but a few years since,
to every degree of wretchedness that slavery, star-
vation, and insecurity from hostile foes could inflict,
they are now comfortably housed, safe from violence,
and comparatively easy in their circumstances.
Little is heard of war now amongst the several
tribes, or of their hostile incursions beyond their
own frontiers, and all this has been effected by no
sudden or violent means, no rash innovations, but
by a careful study of the dispositions and habits,
as well as the prejudices of this naturally amiable
and well disposed people.

Having thus briefly noticed the interior condition
of my Sarawak Dyaks, I will proceed to describe
that of the other rivers of the country, which
affords a striking contrast with the former in re-
gard to the tyrannical chiefs, and their oppressed
subjects.

The entrance of the Samarahan is but a few
miles from the Moratabas, or eastern entrance of
Sawarak, with, it is said, a channel of two fathom
or more at high water, and there is likewise an
interior communication for large boats. The river
itself is wide, somewhat rapid, and free, as far as
I know, from danger ; and it is from the interior

Digged by Google

Chat. XXL] DIFFERENT TRIBES. 369

of this river, and its branch, the Terang, that the 1M4 -
Dyaks at Sarawak are principally open to the in-
cursions of those of Sakarran. Three tribes be-
long to the government of this river, viz., the
Bukar, Simpoke, and Siring, which are similar to
the tribe of Sarawak, but less fortunate, as not
coming under my government. The Malays of late
years have not been numerous, and are nominally
governed by an Orang Kaya, and Pangawa, and
Pangeran, but what with the violence and exac-
tions of Sheriff Sahib, backed by his Sakarrans,
and the repeated attacks of the Sarebas, the spirit
and courage of the people have been completely
broken, and Muda Hassim's residence here has only
added, instead of bringing relief to, their suffer-
ings. They are a quiet, tractable, and inoffensive
race ; industrious for Malays, and might, with mo-
derate protection, be made a valuable population,
as their country is peculiarly fertile, and fitted for
the cultivation of rice. I may observe, en passant,
that there is a difference in appearance and lan-
guage between these people and the inhabitants of
Sarawak, and as tradition derives the origin of the
latter from Java, so the former are said to have
been descended from the Peguans. The fact is curi-
ous, and worthy of further investigation, especially
as regards the peculiarities of their language. T
may remark that the greater part of the population
are now located in Sarawak, tempted by the pro-
tection afforded, and driven from their own river

Digged by Google

mr. brooke's journal. [Cur. xxi.

by the recent events which have occurred, and
hereafter to be mentioned.

Several miles from the Moratabas is the entrance
of the Sadong river, a fine stream, full three miles
wide ; not far from the north, on the left hand,
ascending, is the Salongan, which runs up to the
mountain of that name ; and, less than half a tide,
the small stream of Singe on the right, which in its
interior approaches the Samarahan. Farther up
on the left hand, is the Simanjang, which I have
spoken of formerly. The Sadong runs a consider-
able distance into the interior, with many more
branches, and a moderate walk from the landing
place of • * * carries the traveller to Batu
Eerangan, on the waters of Pontiana. It is ty
this water that the trade of the interior chiefly
finds its way to Singapore.

The chief of Sadong, for the last twelve years,
has been Sheriff Sabudeen, or, as commonly called,
Sheriff Sahib, bat this chief must not be confounded
with the proper inhabitants of the river ; for, until
the government was given him by the Rajah Muda,
Sadong was governed by its proper patingi and
bandar, which officers still continue to hold an
authority, though subordinate to Sheriff Sahib-
The proper Malay inhabitants did not, probably,
exceed five or six hundred, and these have been
reduced, in consequence of bad government ; * nd
the Dyaks of the interior, of whom there are many
tribes (Mugrat, Tumma, &c), have suffered in tte
same manner as did the Sarawak Dyaks previous

Digged by Google

Chap. XXX] ISLAND G0VEBNMENT8. 371

to my advent, and in consequence have been greatly 18M -
reduced.

Sheriff Sahib (as the title shows) is of Arab
descent ; his cam pong was at Singi, and the in-
habitants are composed of his own class ; numerous
Borneo pangerans, nakodahs, and, indeed, of all
the dissolute and rapacious tribe, who, acting in
obedience to him, furthered their own interests. I
shall revert to Sheriff Sahib again, and it will be
here sufficient to say, that no place could be worse
governed: the poor were poor indeed, and op-
pressed; the Dyaks ill-treated, and reduced to
slavery, and all from the machinations of this chief.
In short, Singi was an epitome of Borneo Proper,
only that it was in the power of Sheriff Sahib
to do more mischief, as he commanded the nu-
merous and piratical tribe of the Sakarran Dyaks.

To the northward and eastward of the entrance
of the Sadong river, is the small island of Burong
(Bird Island), and further along the coast, a few
miles, is the deserted but pleasant river the Si-
buyow, the former inhabitants of which were Dyaks
of that name, but these have long since deserted
their own locality, chiefly owing to the proximity
of the powerful tribes of Sakarran and Sarebas.
They are a peaceful and well disposed tribe, suffi-
ciently warlike, but broken and separated : portions
are located quietly in Sarawak, whilst others still
live in the various parts of the Sadong river.
Those in Sadong are occasionally employed by
Sheriff Sahib in attacking other tribes, but, except

Digged by Google

MB. BBOOKE'S JOUBMAL. [Chip. XXI.

when forced on Buch service, I never heard of their
being piratical. Their great enemies were the Sare-
bas Dyaka, from whom they suffered greatly,
and at Sadong they endured with the other Dyaks
various and frightful oppressions. The greater
part have either removed, or are removing, to
Sarawak ; and, when gathered together, they will
amount to about 200 or 250 families, or about 1000
or 1500 persons. Immediately beyond Sibuyow is
the Batang Lapur, which has a high and wooded
island at the mouth, called Tarisow. The entrance
is between two and three miles across, and the
current is very rapid. Ascending hence a few miles,
brings you to the embouchure of the Linga river, as
already described.

Sarawak, July 24. 1844. — Sarawak is pros-
perous, and fully bears out my former statements,
even under unfavourable circumstances. No man
could witness the condition of the Dyaks at present,
and contrast it with their former miserable state,
without feeling convinced, that much substantial
good has been effected. The Malay population has
more than doubled; the people, generally, are
peaceful and gain employment ; poverty is un-
known and crime very rare. The Chinese are
comfortable and peaceful, and gold begins to make
its appearance as a currency. Nothing, indeed
could be more favourable than our internal con-
dition, with the exception of the continued resi-
dence of the pangeran, Muda Hassim. This
pangeran and his brothers do no actual mischief,

Digged by Google

Cup. XXI] POLICY OF BEHOVING MTJDA HASSIH. 37,

but there is a slight tendency to petty intrigue, and ,M1 -
a great drawback to native trade, whilst they are
present, for no native will trust himself within
reach of his rajahs if he can help it. No people
are more devoted or more submissive to their
princes than the Malays, and nothing proves their
continued bad rule more than the total alienation
of all classes from them. It is highly desirable,
'therefore, to remove Muda Hassim and his suite
to Borneo Proper, not only from his being mis-
chievous here, but from his presence being ne-
cessary in the capital to uphold our influence
there. I hope to effect this through Eeppel's
kindness, who will, I am sure, give his aid and
advice to bring it about, and the advice of a
man, backed by eighteen thirty-two pounders, is
here pretty eure to be attended to. With the
neighbouring rivers our grand struggle is ap-
proaching, and I am rejoiced that it is so, for
it will at once bring about what otherwise. might
have cost us years to effect, viz., the removal of
all the bad and pestilent rajahs and their fol-
lowers, and the establishment of Sarawak influence
and rule over all the contiguous rivers. Good and
evil are now fairly pitted against each other, and I
repeat again, I am glad of it. Heaven help the
right 1 To render intelligible our foreign policy,
I must previously enter into a brief geographi-
cal detail. Contiguous to our Sarawak river is
the fine river of Samarahan, with a quiet popula-
tion of Dyaks and Malays : it has been dreadfully

Digged by Google

374 me. brooke's joubnal. [Cm*, xxi.

1844. harassed by Sheriff Sahib; attacked and plun-
dered by the Sakarran and Sarebas Dyaks, and
open to the demands of Muda Hassim and hia
brethren ; the consequence is, that the quieter part
of its inhabitants have left it to settle themselves
in Sarawak. About fifteen miles beyond Samara-
han is the fine river of Sadong ; and not far from
its entrance was the town, inhabited by Sheriff
Sahib, called Songi. The interior of Sadong has
its Malay and Dyak population, all miserable and
oppressed to an extreme degree, even to the seizure
of their young children and women, when it
suited the convenience of their plunderers. A few
miles beyond Sadong is the Batang Lapur, within
whose mouth are the two rivers of Singe and Sa-
karran. Singe has a population of about 100
Malays, and is inhabited by the Balow Dyaks, the
majority of whom are quiet and good people ; Singe
has, or had, its resident demon, called Sheriff
Jaffer.

Sakarran has a small Malay population, at the
head of which is Sheriff Mullar, an elder brother of
Sheriff Sahib. The Dyak population are very nu-
merous and highly piratical. The next river to
Batang Lupar is Sarebas. The only difference
between the Sarebas and Sakarran Dyaks is, that
the latter have all along been in league with Sheriff
Sahib, gaining information and dividing plunder
with him.

It must be borne in mind, that all these sheriffs
are of Arab extraction ; and if we refer to Sir Stain-

Digged by Google

Chap. XXI.] ARAB HWLUENCB.

ford Baffles, we shall gain the opinion of that high
authority regarding the Arabs, and the evil influ-
ence they exercise in Malay states. Sheriff Sahib
was born in Sakarran, whence he proceeded to
Borneo Proper, and was there invested by Muda
Hassim with the government of Sadong. For
many years he was the sole ruler of all the rivers ;
destroying the Dyafcs, oppressing the Malays,
employing the Sakarran 8 on frequent piratical ex-
cursions, even as far as Banjarmassin, and foster-
ing all the Illanun and other pirates, by driving a
profitable trade with them. In short, he was en-
tirely beyond the rule of Borneo, and became him-
self a sovereign prince. My power at Sarawak
gave him the first shake, and the arrival of the
Dido, and the attack on Sarebas, completed his
downfall at Sadong. I intimated to him last year,
that the Sakarran Dyaks would be punished, as the
Sarebas had already been, for their piracies, and
recommended him not to have any further commu-
nication with that tribe.

The Dido's sudden recall to China alone pre-
vented the meditated attack on Sakarran, and gave
Sheriff Sahib time to breathe and to plot. At
Christmas I crossed over to Singapore, and it was
then that Sheriff Sahib resolved to remove to Sa-
karran. On my return here in May, in the Har-
lequin, his preparations were complete. Two
hundred Dyak boats were with him, besides some
fifteen Malay prahus with guns. They were
posted in a small stream called Sabarangar, at the

Digged by Google

J76 MK. BBOOKB'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XXL

1844 - entrance of Sadong, and cut up and destroyed
every thing at sea, and much on land. The Har-
lequin was, most unfortunately, under orders to
return home, and Captain Hastings judged, that
he could not spare four days to extirpate these
rascals, in which adventure I volunteered to assist
with eight boats. The opportunity was lost : the
flood which would have borne us on to fortune
flowed past aa sluggishly as any other tide, and
Sheriff Sahib, marking his course with rapine, re-
tired to Sakarran. Since then, neither party has
been idle. His first step was to send Dyaks to sea,
and into the interior of Sadong and Samarahan,
where they have burnt eight villages, killed many
people, and led away women and children into
captivity.

On our side, we have cruised to prevent these
atrocities, and have destroyed three of their strong
holds. Sheriff Sahib is now fortified at a place
called Patusan (or the cut), in the Sakarran river.
We are waiting impatiently for the Dido, and pro-
bably the Fhlegethon steamer, when we shall drive
him away from the scene of his iniquities, or, if
fortunate, kill him. The Dyaks may be corrected,
but the influence of these sheriffs must be entirely
broken, and their persons banished.

This once effected, there is no other power, even
including Borneo itself, likely to visit or annoy us,
and the utmost good will result to every river
along the coast, for they will then look to and ap-
peal to us, and we may gently influence their

Digged by Google

Chap. XXL] SUGGESTIONS FOE PROTECTION.

various governments. I have thus given a long
detail of our present position, which I consider ex-
cellent ; for I do not entertain a moment's doubt
about Keppel's acting; and from a letter I have
received from Mr. Church, I think the Phlegethon
will come over in company with the Dido. To
ensure our safety here, is effectively to visit the
various rivers along the coast, and to keep open a
communication with Singapore and Borneo Proper.

I would suggest a small steamer instead of a
sloop of war ; a small steamer, whose armament
should include rockets and shells, would do more
towards the suppression of piracy than half a dozen
sloops of war. The commander of the Straits
might, at the same time, be instructed occasionally
to visit Sarawak, and in case of an application from
me, he might, if consistent with the public service,
attend to my requisition. Supposing the steamer
to be unattainable, I would suggest too gun-boats (or
even one), similar to those at Singapore ; one I
already have, which is available to the government.
One or two gun-boats, with from thirty to forty
men each, would be the minimum of expense, and
the force in the Straits would, if occasionally visit-
ing the coast, be sufficient. The steamer, however,
is preferable in every way. The duty of Resident
would, I conceive, be to aim at the extension of
commerce, the suppression of piracy, and to attend
to British interests generally.

Much might be effected, and I will readily under-
take the office, though it reduce me to poverty,

Dig,^ by Google

ME. BROOKE'B JOURNAL. CCmat. XXL

but it muat be borne in mind, that the development
by such small means will be gradual and slow, and
not to be compared to the impulse given by the
formation of a Crown colony. The gradual de-
velopment is, in some respects, preferable, and
especially in the superior protection it affords the
aborigines, for it cannot be denied that the abo-
rigines are certain to Buffer when the white man's
foot is set on their soil. "We must remember,
however, that, in the course of an improved
policy, it will be necessary to raise a de facto
ruler of Borneo, and to support him, and this ruler
of Borneo must feel how totally he is dependent
upon ub.

Again, in raisiDg up this ruler, it will probably
be necessary to punish, or drive away rivals, and
to make the inhabitants of the capital obedient to
him.

I need add no more, but that I will willingly
undertake, without burden (beyond the amount
named) on the finances to carry out this policy,
and to push it beyond the mere limits of this coast
of Borneo. The only other expense I would sug-
gest, a few presents the first time I went, as a man
in authority, to visit the capital. This, I believe,
is all ; and I sincerely exclaim, that I trust, ere
long, our task will be accomplished.

We are a very happy party here, and agree ex-
ceedingly well. No one could have been luckier
in this respect : there is not a bad temper amongst
us. Stonehouse is a great acquisition, and has

Digged by Google

Chat. XXI.] AKPJtOACHIM 8THUGGLE. Oil

taken charge of the household department. Ste- I844-
ward is a great favourite ; he lives near me, and is
now building his house. Mine is just complete,
and is called the " Grove." The situation is beau-
tiful, with fruit and flowers in abundance. I count
the days till the Dido arrives.

December 31. — Five months have passed away Dec si.
since I last wrote, and rapid has been the suc-
cession of events. The arrival of the Dido at the
end of July soon put the whole community in ac-
tivity, and early in August the operations against the
Sakarran pirates commenced in earnest. On the 9th
Patusanwas destroyed, and Sheriff Sahib driven to
Santung, on the Pontiana, and Sheriff Mullar to
the interior of Batang Lupar. Sheriff Jaffer was
pardoned and removed to Sange. The Linga river
was placed under the government of its proper
officers, viz., Indra Lela, Lela Palawan, and Lela
Wangsa ; but I fear their capacity to rule the tur-
bulent spirits around them. However, the result
of Keppel's operations has been most satisfactory.
The Sakarrans remain quiet. The Sarebas almost
friendly, and willing to trade with our Sarawak
people. Early in September we returned to Sara-
wak, and found the Samarang at anchor off Mora-
tabas; and, accompanied by Sir Edward Belcher,
Beveral excursions were made to the neighbouring
rivers. By the end of this month both the Dido
and Samarang had Bailed to Singapore, and I was
again alone.

Early in October the Samarang, with the Ho-

Dignbd by Google

380 MB. bbooke's JOURNAL. [Csap. XXI.

I 8 **- nourable Company's steamer Phlegethon in com-
pany, returned here, and, through the kindness of
Sir Edward Belcher, the Rajah Muda Hassim, and
his train, were removed to Brune. The steamer pro-
ceeded at once to the mouth of that river, whilst I
accompanied Sir Edward to Labuan. The harbour
is good, the situation agreeable, and probably
healthy, water apparently abundant, and the local-
ity in every way suited for a commercial establish-
ment. We picked up several pieces of coal, and
traces of it are strongly evident in the strata of
sandstone. The position of Labuan is central,
and commands Brune the capital. The position,
relative to China, is good, and the trade with the
northern parts of Borneo, Suln, Magindanao, &c.
may be opened and encouraged. For the sup-
pression of piracy no place could be preferable, as
it would bring us within reach of the Illanun and
Balagnini ; and we should shortly be able to sepa-
rate the good communities from the bad, which is
the first step towards improvement ; but Labuan is
only a diminutive island, — a frigate, with a small
steamer, a few gun-boats, a fort, a slight military
force, and the English union jack, would constitute
an establishment powerful enough, not only to
protect the place, but to control all the neighbour-
ing evil-doers ; and, to do real good, these people
must be controlled.

After this hasty survey of Labuan, I accompanied
Sir Edward to the Phlegethon, anchored off Moarra,
where we learned that pangeran Usop had fright-

Dignbd by Google

Digged by Google

ii, Google

Chap. XXI.] AUDIENCE WITH THE 8ULTAB.

381

ened the sultan into building four forts on Pulo ls43 -
Cherimon, and, as we approached, there were
symptoms of hostility from that quarter. On seeing
Muda Hassim's flag, however, their hostile in-
tentions were abandoned, and their courage melted
to wax, when the Phlegethon anchored off the
sultan's house in Brune. My object was to estab-
lish Muda Hassim's authority, — a delicate piece
of diplomacy.

Pangeran Usop had gained an influence over the
sultan, but the mass of the people were decidedly
opposed to his rule, and we soon discovered, through
the intelligence of Budrudeen, that the populace
sided with Muda Hassim. At our first audience of
the sultan, we found his highness as pliant and
yielding as we could desire, and he declared that
he would listen to no other adviser than his uncle,
Muda Hassim ; and, as to pangeran Usop, if Muda
Hassim wished, he might kill him at once ; and then
added, " If my father rises from the grave, I will
not listen to him, but to Muda Hassim." The
interview was very satisfactory. Pangeran Usop
and pangeran Mumin both declared themselves
ready to yield implicitly to Muda Hassim's wishes,
and, on his ordering it, despatched a body of men
to destroy all the forts which they had erected.
They denied all intention of hostility to the English,
and pretended that these defences were intended
to protect them against the Balagnini, and other
pirates. The poorer classes, who had heard of my
government at Sarawak, and the quiet and security

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKB'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XXL

enjoyed by the inhabitants there, openly professed
their desire that I should myself remain and govern
them jointly with Muda Hassim. How different is
Brune now from that formerly represented by the
first European travellers. Its power is departed,
and it will fall a prey to the first invader. Their
possessions in the north are already wrested from
them by Sheriff Osman, of Malludu, over which
country he exercises the most evil influence. He
could easily be swept away if necessary. He is the
man who sold forty lascars of the ship Sultana,
wrecked in that quarter, part of whom I afterwards
released from captivity. Sir E. Belcher talks of
paying him a visit— I hope he may do so, and may
tell him, that he will not be allowed to sell British
subjects with impunity !

Tampasuk and Fandassan are the only other
piratical places of importance on this coast inha-
bited by Illanuns, the other places are smaller and
possessed by the Bajows, of sea-gipsies, and I
believe they might easily be reclaimed from their
roving habits.

Whilst at Brune, I procured from the sultan a
paper, offering the Island of Labuan to the British
Government, which will facilitate the cession should
Her Majesty's ministers determine on a colony in
this quarter. My proceedings in the matter have
prepared the native mind. The mass of the people
would hail such a step with delight, and our pos-
session of Labuan would be highly gratifying to
Muda Hassim, and Budrudeen, by far the most able,

lignbcd by Google

Chap. XXI.] COAL.

the most decided, and the most friendly to the
English of all the Borneans. I was also enabled
to settle the coal question, — its locality was esta-
blished beyond a doubt, in spite of difficulties
thrown in my way by pangeran Usop and other
chiefs, who attached an undue importance to its
possession.

It was found at Cherimon and Ea Ingarran
islands, but Sir E. Belcher and myself failed to
discover it in any quantities on the main land,
though we ascended the Kiange stream for that
purpose, the largest seen was about four feet wide
and had been evidently worked by the natives. It
was entirely owing to the authority of Muda
Hassim that we were permitted to walk into the
country, and under his government a supply might
be obtained.

Early in the month of November I visited Am-
bong, and was pleased with the inhabitants, the
Bajows. The aborigines are called Dusuns, ex-
tremely similar to the Dyaks. The great object of
my visit was to inquire into the truth of a story,
which for many years had been current at Singa-
pore, that a European lady was in captivity in this
quarter, and I ascertained that there was no foun-
dation whatever for the story.

In the middle of November I was again in Sara-
wak, and found all progressing steadily and well.
Five hundred families had taken shelter within the
province in the short space of two months, and
from every quarter I received undoubted proofs of

Digged by Google

MR. BBOOKB'S JOURNAL. [Chap. XXI.

the affection and respect of the tribes under my
rule. Many of the chiefs and people have come
down from the hills to welcome my return, and
Lingire, the Dyak chief of Sarebas, has also visited
me. I believe he is now well inclined towards us,
and I may here relate an anecdote about him
during Keppel's campaign. Lingire's house was on
the river's bank, near the village of Paku. The
tide turned as we arrived at his residence and ren-
dered our return necessary, and as Lingire's hos-
tility had been most active, a party was sent to
destroy it. Three times the house was fired, but
the flames would not take, when the Dyaks from a
neighbouring eminence shouted to us to spare the
dwelling. Having been called to come down to us,
three or four of them immediately did so, and at
my request, Lieutenant Horton then spared the
building. It appears that this act of clemency,
amid the horrors of war, was remembered by Lin-
gire and had made a deep impression upon him, so
much so indeed, that it brought him over to our
policy, and was the cause of his now trusting him-
self amongst us. I asked him whether, if I now
went attended only by a few persons, he would
guarantee my safety in the Sarebas. He replied,
yes, and that he would himself accompany me from
place to place. That these Dyaks will have their
disputes and wars amongst each other, it is natural
to suppose, but their frightful piracies by sea, and
their exterminating attacks on inoffensive tribes
has been fostered and encouraged by the Malays,

Digged by Google

Cup. XXI.] CLOSE OP 1844.

who lived by plunder, and will soon cease when
the cause has been removed.

And now I have brought up my journal to the
close of the year 1844, and, written as it has been
at various intervals, and amidst manifold discom-
forts, it will probably be very disconnected and
badly arranged.

END OF THB FIKST VOLUME.

11, Google

Spottuiioodi and Shaw,
Nev-ttreet-Squuv.

Dignbcd by Google

■•' o^i

Digged by Google

ii, Google

l-llUii 1 !!

fgnnnnnri

t «

a *- 1 & j

§ | < \
e x *

»( ^lc

Digged by GoOgk

WOEKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED.

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY TO THE SOUTH POLE.

By C«pt Sir Jams* Claw Bon, K.N. Plata and Maps. 3 vols. 8tq. S61.
" The aitracu we hare glren will apeak natter than we eonld for the plain, modeet, and maul) taite
ot Iheaothor — which mil notlrelT worthy el lill high orofeetlonel cBaiaeter and llgnul Mrilcea"—
ttWrtflWAMrat.

ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

Bj Hiamahu Mn.vu.tc 8 Tola, pent 8m. 13a.

" Sloct th* Jot™, moment whan wa flrat read Rnblnaon Ciuioe. and believed It all, and wandered all
the more became wa believed, wa hate not met with » nnrkchlna a work ai (tale narrative o( Her-
man MeWllle'l."— Join Boil.

A RESIDENCE IN NEW SOUTH WALES.

By Mn. Motbith. Post Sto. Si. Sd.
" Mn. Meredith !• ■ jileeauit unanhetad writer ; and th* boot darliee Interest floiu being a lady-i

ADVENTURE IN NEW ZEALAND.

Bj E. J. WaiirraxD. With Map. 8 Tola. Sto. 3Sj.

"Tba rani complete and cc

TRAVELS IN MEXICO;

W tba FBAIBIBS and ROCKY

d animal ■plriu, and powers of nneenatjon In a health/

A RESIDENCE AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

ADVENTURES IN MOROCCO AND AMONG THE MOORS.
Br DauHMOHu Hat. Port Sto. 8a. 6d.

" A new and hl|hlj intareetlng work."— Grrtnoc* JdrrrDter.

VOYAGE OF A NATURALIST ROUND THE WORLD.

By Cbaux.u Da&win. Port Sto. 8*. 6/L

"The ancbor'leannt-HM land leap* painter, and tba dreariest solitudes are made to teem with In-
tereet."_Q»MrttrJw Bcvlnr.

[conlimtd.

),g,1„cd by GoOglC

WORKS URGENTLY PUBLISHED.

A HISTORY OF INDIA,

THE HINDOO AND MAHOMMEDAN PERIODS
Bj the Hon. Mouhtctuakt EirHimiii™. New Edition. With Map. B*o.
■ A work of the frttlett authority nd learning — one of tba latert and molt valaaMa worki on lb*
Rattan Empire. ---At Baiirl Pal.

10.

A JOURNEY THROUGH INDIA.

By Bishop Hum. 3 *oU port Bvo. 19*
" We enTJ thoae who read then chirmloi Journal! lor the lint tta( ."— Emmtnir.

11.

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF INDIA.

By Bar. Cha*l» Aclikd. Post 8*0. Si. 6d.
" Written In in oir unlabeled Urle: and (be ifcrtchai which It stiet of European life and manner!
under an Kaileru inn nun Inter** ill who hare rrlendale, India, and who would Like to »uow how chef
gnu their dajj."— Ttu T*tolafla*.

12.

LETTERS FROM MADRAS;

Oft, FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF LIFB AND SOCIETY IN INDIA.
By a Lady. Poet 8*0. St. Si

SKETCHES OF PERSIAN LIFE AND MANNERS.

Bt St John Malcolm. Post 8to. 6*.
" Tbe Penliot in hare pnunted with all the Intarwt, but without the caricature, of oar amuilnj
lend Hajjl Haba."— Quarterly Jtnanv.

14.

THE NORTHERN PROVINCES OF CHINA.

By Rokk Foitdni. Second Edition Plates. Bto. 1 5a.

A RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF CHINA.

By FiTHRK Rip.. Post 8»p, 2i. 6rf.
Ai latorwtlni a work u an f that hai appeared, not excepting; Borrow'! Bible la Spain."— Spectator.

16.

JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE.

Described from die Accounts of recent Dutch Travellers. Peat 8to. 9a. 6d.
Contalulsi all the Information about Japan which hai ban obtilnod ; well arranged and well put
«ber."— Lllrrarf QneUe.

John Murray, Albemarle Street.

Digged by GOOglC

Digged by Google

■„, 11, Google

Digged by Google