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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I CHINA AND JAPAN, ▲ITD A VOYAGE THITHER: AN ACCOUNT OF A CRUISE IV THB WATEES OF THE EAST IITOIES, OHmA, Aim JAPAK By JAMES B. LA^A^RENCE, U. S. M. C. HARTFORD: PRESS OF CASE, LOCKWOOD & BRAINARD. 1870. Entered acoording to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, bj JAMES B. LAWRENCE, In the Clerk's Office of the District Coart of the United States, for the District of Connecticut. TO MY GALLAirr SHIPMATES AND COMPANIONS OF THB ^BiEtix: S^£[UKlOitan, AND THOSE « DEAR FRIENDS AT HOME/' WHO BTEB SBMEMBERED US WITH INTBBEST IN ALL OUB WANDEBINGS, THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELT DEDICATED, Bt THE AUTHOB. PREFACE. There have been times in the lives of almost every one, when the^ have stood with a group of friends, as GOme bright day closed into evening, and watched with admiration its va- ried pictures of colored and golden cloud-scenes. At such times one could not have failed to have remarked that each one saw scenes unnoticed or unrecognized by others. What would appear to one to he the figures of persons, would as clearly be recognized by another to be animals ; and while one would be struck with astonishment at a very clearly de- fined picture of contending armies, or a noble tower with lofly batllements, to others these same scenes would appear but a confused and unshapen mass. In like manner, no one beholds the same thing precisely alike, and in some cases there is a direct contradiction in describing the same object, and yet both may be correct eo til as they go ; as in the case of the two knights contending over the material of which the shield was composed. The Tanlt was that one did not see the whole ; and in no case yet has the midtiplied descriptions of diSerent countries and people either exhausted the subject, or made us accurately acquainted. There is ever an oppoituoity for " one more " to bring something new to our notice, or present the most Ikmiliar subject in some new and interesting aspect. This must be the writer's excuse for saying something regarding countries, people, and other topics that ma; appear familiar to many; but the taosl of his gatherings are from remote regions, which, while an; information respecting them is intensely interesting, there ia yet comparatively Utile known. In these gatherings the writer has endeavored to collect the most interesting, to be as comprehensive as his opportaoiljes woold allow, and to describe and narrate all in as coDcise a manner bb ease would permit. He feels assured that the reader will find in these pages some new and interestiog items regarding the remote regions of which he writes ; and yet is at the same time conscious that they will not be missed from the vast mass left for other observers and future years. As a public ship is always an object of national interest, and therefore cannot be uninteresting for her republican pa- rents to know of her wanderings, the writer has given in connection with these gatherings the most impoitant facta respecting the "cruise" of the vessels with which he was connected. He has also endeavored to notice some great evils which exist in an important national institution, and which do not seem to be in harmony with our national char- acter. It should be the aim of all to produce a roform in this institution, and to show to the world in our Navy an example of correct American principles. Be^pectiug his style, the writer makes no pretensions, al- though he is well aware that so much depends upon it, that the simplest incident ia emheJliahed by it; and the most triHing item from tlie pen of some are by it so expressed as to possess all the fascinations of a romance. Still the writer feels assured that the simplest account of a voyage has such i indiBcriminate populaiit}', that he may safely rely upon the interest of his subject, withonl particulai" reference to style. Something, Lowever, should perhaps be said in respect to tbe form in which the book has been written. The writer has chosen the form of " letters " because this is less didactic and stiff than any other, and abo, while he has found greater freedom and ease in writing as from one friend to another, he hopes that the reader wiU derive deeper pleasure from the perusal. To the charge of egotism, which Eome might bring against him, he would say in defence, that this fonn necessarily occasions a considerable use of the first person; and after all, whal is history or the account of any- thing but the t^gregate of individual experiences and erao- ll might have been better in some respects had the writer followed more closely the directions of good Master Bayle in bis prescriptions for description and invention. Although his sage rules have not been taken as a guide, yet whenever he bad a statement to make in connection with his subject, that belonged lo the common stock of history and science, or has bad views and sentiments to convey which another has better expressed than himself, he has not hesitated, without further acknowledgmenls, to use such materials, in part or entire, and to hiend them with his own into a kind of mosaic, in which he admits that his part is little more than the ce- However, this has not been carried to any great extent by bim ! and Ihe render need not expect lo Rnd the history of each place run hafk to primeval dales, including an elaborate Ylii PREFACE. treatise on MiDeralogy, BotaDj, and all other sciences of every place ; for the writer has mainlj noted the objects and topics which interested him at the moment ; and provided that the perasal of these gatherings impart to the reader one-half the interest and pleasure that the writer experienced, he will be content. JAMES B. LAWRENCE, Sandisfield, Mass., Jtdy Isty 1870. OONTEISTTS. LETTER I. Boston IIabbob. - - Page 9. On board— A glance at the Wachusett— The Berth Dwk. LETTER n, Undeb WaiQH. - - Page 15. *' Donn by the Ron " — Preparing for Sea — Preeidential Rejoicinga — TbB Foing of Farting. LETTER in. Ai Bba. ■ - - Fogo 20. Stationiog — Amnaementa — Sunday on board Ship — Treatraent of Seamen — Our Officers — FreparationB for Port — Land Ho ! Emo- tions — Dominica and Martiniqae — Beautiful Ecenerj of the latter — Fort de France Harbor — The Town — Tropical Fruits — Cheering LETTER IV. MiRTiNiQnn, Weht Imdies. - page 29. " Potting on Ship's Harbor Dresa" — Introduced 10 the Inhabitants — "Coaling Ship" — Ship's Radons — "Boxing the Compass" — Rambling Ashore — Mistaken Kindncsa — Fort de Praoce — The Btr«eiG — BnildingB — " Qaartei Declt Guard " — Agrannd — ASoat Again — Go 'round to St. Pierre — A glance at the Town. LETTER V. MAETlBiqOE TO Cape Vehdeb, - Page 40. "Gonersi Qnartera "—Scrubbing HaminoctB and Washicg Clothes — DiiisioQal Routine — Daily Ronline — Reiative Poaition and Duties — "Cleansing Ship" — Meellng Vessels — Sight the Cape Vcrdea — St. Antonio and St. Vincent- Pnrio Grand Harbor—" Bird Rock " — '■ Washington's Head "—The Town from the Sliip — Inhabilants— . Onr Flog. } X CONTENTS. \ LETTER VI. j CafIb Yerdbs. - - Page 47. j News from Home — Mourning for President Lincoln — Target Prac- j tice — On Shore — A word about Sugar — ^Leave for Porto Praya — j St. Jago — Porto Praya Harbor — The Town — ^Money — Fresh Pro- ; visions — Result of One's Misdeeds — ^A False Alarm — Visitors — A I Fair One— Reminiscences — The Lost Anchor. LETTER VII. PoBTO Praya to St. Catharine. - Page 54. Rough Weather and Sea-sickness — Jib Bogue — Neptune's Visit — ^Be- calmed—" By the Wind "—Half Rations— Off Rio Janeiro— Scene- ry — " Sold " — Steer for Montevidio — The Pampero— First Storm at Sea — ^A Fearful Night — ^In the Vortex of the Hurricane— Trying Moments—" About Ship "— " Land Ho I"— Put into St. Catharine. LETTER Vin. St. Catharine. - - Page 66. Coal and Provisions — Hard Bread-.— More News from Home — ^An Or- anging Expedition — "Fourth of July " — '* Dressing Ship *' — Depart for Rio — Chess — ^Preparations for entering Rio— Entering the Bay — Sugar Loaf — The Scenery of the Bay of Rio Janeiro-^The Bay — Coaling Ship — Healing the Breach. LETTER IX. Rio Janeiro. - - - Page 76. Ceremonies for the Emperor — Holidays — The Susquehanna — " Ship Visiting " — Money and " General Liberty " — ^A Defaulter — Murder of a Messmate — The Funeral — The Ceremony — Wedding of " Mary and John " — At the Landing — Royal Chapel — ^Paintings — ^Rua do Ouvridor — Rua do Ouvris— Don Pedro Square and Cafe— Coffee — Rio Janeirians — Praya Grande — A pleasant Acquaintance with Strawber- ries and Cream — The French Theatre — ^Navy Yard and Iron Clads — New Use for Window Blinds and Shutters — The Intuitive Portu- guese Jealousy — " Mooring Ship " — Visit to Botafogo and Botanic Gardens — Repairs. LETTER X. Rio Janeiro to " The Cape." - Page 92. Weighing Anchor — Good-bye to Rio^That Dutchman — Mending — A New Personages introduced with New Uses, etc — ^What a Band ! — in Port — Simon's Bay, LETTER XI CiPB Tows, SoDTH Arjuc/L. - Page 99. Fiahing at Simon's Bnj— Toad Fiah— Cape Town and Table Moun- nun— On Shore— A glance at the Citj— Castle— Burracfcs— Wine with good advice from Mr. Bacchus — Market and Fair Vendeta — GoTCrnment Grounds and Colonial Mnseum — Cnrioaities — An Es- cnrsioD to Wjnberg — Consamcia Vinajard— Resnlt of Treading on Toe* — Visitors and Comical Description of " do Bible Gnn " — Our Sail— Death of Bjran— The TcDmnn— The nartford— CaatlsBuild- LETTETi Sn. BATAni, Java. - Page 112. CoSeeandSpices!— Leare Cape Town- Theft— A Narrow Escape- Sailors' SaperstitioBs— Christmas — Sick at Sea I^Becalmed — Rou- tine; Oh how MoQOIonous and Tiresome! — " Fair Wind, with our Engines" — Java Head- Anjer Pmnt — JnTanese and Boat* — Har- bor — Batayia — Sail Ashore — Government Grounds — How we Kode and what we Saw — Native and Jorcign Quarters — Bounlcal and Zoological Gardens — The George Green— Onrust — Preparadons for Departure, LETTER Xin. Masilla, LnzON. - Page 126. Piom Ba»via to Manilla— Waterspouts — Target Practice — BomtMi — EruitIeK Searcli for " Wild Men " — Lnzon— Manilla — InhabiiantB — Dress — The Town — Earthqualtes— Cigars and Manuracloriea — Visit the Cathedra! — La Plaza — Native Quarter — " Washington's Birth duj " — Gnrroling. LETTER XIV. HoNo KoHG, China. ■ - Pago 134. Manilla to Hong Kong— Sight Hong Kong — The Irate Admiral — First Inlrodaclion to Chinese — Appearance and Costiimea — Hong Kong Harbor and Island — Victoria — News from Home. LETTER XV. Macao, Ch:na. - - Page 141. Pwago from Hang Kong — Picturesque Appearance of Macao — " Qeo- eral Liborij "— " Fast Boats " and Tanka Girls — Expprieuce with XU CONTENTS. them going ashore — The Cathedral — Chinese Quarter — ^Barbered — Costumes — ^Foreign Quarter — ^Palanquins — Chinese Theatre — Cam- oens and Chinnery — Humanity, Swapping Black Skins for Yellow ones. LETTER XVI. Canton. - - - Page 150. Leave Macao — Canton River Scenery — Chinese Graves — ^Features in Landscape — ^Approaching the City — Varieties of Boats — "Facto- ries " — Arrival of Admiral — ^Importunities of Tanka Girls — Curiosi- ty Street and Curiosities — Silks — City Walls — ^Bird's-Eye View — Houses — Streets — ^Business — ^Execution Ground, etc — Honan Side — Visit of Governor — ^Mandarin Costumes — ^Beggars and Curious Law.. LETTER XVn. HoNO EoNG. - - Page 165. Leave Canton — ^Whampoa Anchorage — A shore view of Hong Kong — Queen's Road — "Old Sam" — ^Incident Illustrative of Chinese Imi- tation. LETTER XVin. Shanghai. - - Page 170. Hong Kong to Shanghai — " A Man Overboard !" — Run a Junk Down — ^Woosung — Shanghai from Forecastle — ^A Shore View — Sam- pans — ^Native City — Taeping Monument. LETTER XIX. Newchwang. - - - Page 179. Leave Shanghai — Shantung Promontory — Yingtse— Hu — " The Long- Knife Man " — ^His Band and their Depredations — An Unsuccessful Expedition — Our Midnight Sortie and Success — Tortures and Exe- cutions — Chinese Currency — Drowning of Breems — Surveying the Bar— The Tautai's Visit— A New Pet— Incidents of Stay— Inde- pendence Day. LETTER XX. Chefoo and Tung-chow-foo. - Page 189. Leave Newchwang — The Great Wall — Takoo— Chefoo— Go up to Tung-chow-foo — The Difficulty— Another Expedition— Turns into an Excursion— Return to Chefoo — On Shore — A Mandarin Travel- ing—The Cemetery— General Liberty— The Corean Difficulty. CONTENTS. 3 LETTER XSl. ShUIGBAI IND on THE TaNGTBB ElANG. FsgB SI diefbo to Shnnghai — Depart for Hankow — YanglSB Hiang and Scene- rj — Golden and SilTer Islands — Chinkiaog — Heat, Sickness, and Death — Death of Captain Townsend — Return to Shanghai — Funeral of Captain Townsend — Obitnaij Notice, LETTER XXII, Shanghai, ■ - ' Page 212. Fever — Ramble about Shanghai — ChineBe Prisons — Tea Gardens— Tea. LETTER XXin. A Look at Japan. - - Fi^21&. A Death and Burial at Sen — Tokohama — Japanese — Dreea — CoartMy and SalntadoDB — Tokohama Harbor — Land at the Hetdetar — Hamo- ra Street— BirdVEje View of Town— Drying Tea— Native Qua ter — Incidents of Way— Curio5itic=— Go up to Yeddo — Escort oi MiniBler— What we encountered in our march through the citj^ Minister'a Residence and Groands — Ventilation — Yeddo — The Hew Captain — General Court-Martial — Return Co Tokohama — S bidsBB " Good-bye" — Depart for Nagasaki — Oosima — TheTyphoo — Enter Inland Sea — DivisiouB — ScoDcry, etc, — Nagasaki Harbor- The Town — Japanese Currency — Horseback Ramble about Naga- saki — A few words about Japanese. LETTER XXIV- HoNR Kong. - ■ - Page 236, Nagasaki to Hong Kong — Anival^Go up to Macao for F6te — Cruis- ing after Pirates — Description, Mode of Attack, etc. — A Sad Inei- deot— Visit an Opium Saloon—" Take a Whiff," and Effects— Cen- tral Market— Pnblic Gardens- Kowloon Shore— The Fire— Cool. LETTER XSV. HoNO Koisa. - - - Page 243. Cmiaing Northward — Tsing Hoy — Swatow — Amoa Straits — Tung Sang — Sale Works — Sweet Potatoes^Off Amoy — Scenery — Amoy — Od Shore— Chinese Cemetery- Graves, etc.— While Stag Hill- Pictnresqueness of Kulang-Boo — Sunday Services with Attracti R«ttim to Hong Kong — Thanksgiving — Lose Dr. Page. i CONTESTS. LETTER XXVI. Wn*MPOA, - - I'age 263. Go np to Wliampoa,— In Dock — Repairing — A Sad DeBth — Curioai- tiea — Snmmarj Prniishment for SteaJing — A Word on Clijneae Glov- ' ornment-iA RamWa info InleriDr— Mnaic and Wine— New Town— In the Coontry—BaniLQaB— Pagoda Eroinence— The View— Inside the Pagoda — Oiil Whampoa — Chinese Ploughing — Grinding — Print- ing bbtIj known, Mannar of, etc. — Pnrsea Bnrying Ground — Chi- nesa Funeral — The Jobs Tower — Return to Hong Kong — Christmag Feitiritios^A Bad Parting. LETTER SXVn- Chefoo. ■ ■ - Fage S69. Depart for the Northward — Id Linchan Bay — A Typhoon— Shanghai — Powder Esploeion^-Lonolinaas — A Novel Combal—Deparl for Chefoo — Arriral- Cold, but Pleasant — ShootJng and Skating — The . General Sherman Affair — Description of Chinese Written Language and tbe Spoken — Loaming in China, LETTER XXVUl. CoHEi. - - - Page2T7. Depart for Corea — Approaching the Land — Ncin-Fo — Coreane- — Dress, Appparance, etc. — CommunicnHona sent to King of Corea and Chief of Province — Sorvey aJid Noraonclatnre of Bay and In- lets—The Chief's " Winter Cap "— Fillhiness of Coreaoa— A Tough Tarn — Corean Version of Geo. Sherman Affair — Unsatisfactory Re- ply to Commnnicationfl — A VindiotiTa Savage — Go to Port Hamil- ton (Nanhoo)- The Harbor — Islands— Villages — Houses— General Remarks upon CorcMins. LF.TTEH KXIX. Sqancjhai. - - - Page 285- PaasBge from Cores — At Shanghai — Chinese New Year'i Holidnys — CuBtOma — Calls — Dress— Visit of CatholiE MissionariBB — Ship Vis- iting and Pleasant Acq^uaiotaiices. LETTER XXX. Skcobd TaiF OP TAitaTBB-KiAMO- - Page 289. Summary of Past Year with uB — Delightful Weather- Depart from i Shaaghai — The Grand Canal — Scenery and Bights up the lUver ^ CONTENTS. Chinese I.BiiiJscapes — Fionting Forma — Hankow — Size of, form, de- fensta, etc. — Scene on Han Htvec — Sailing through a Crowded Thoroughfare— A City on the Wotor— " Laws of the Hoad "—Visit Wuchang — InternatioDal Sporti oc Shore. LETTER XXXI. Dqws tub YiNQTBB. - - Pago £97. Rebels and BefuRees— Origin of "Land PiraKia "— A Brntal Deed— Kinkiang — Burning Citica — Courage — Chineae Military — A BatUa — Porcelain — Tea — A Large Storv — Nankin — Notorielaea — The Por- celain Tower— A Sham Battle— Return to Shanghai. LETTER XXXn. FooQHOw AND NiHGPo. - . Page 306. To Poochow by Inland Passage — Scenery of the Min— Pagoda Anchor- age — On the Pagoda — Foocbow — Soap Stone Carvings — Foodiow lo Chinhae — " Joss-Hoaee Hill " — Chinhae — Approaching Ning- po — Suburbs — " Hcaven-conferrcd Pagoda " — The Mohammeilan Mosque— A " Sing-Song Honsn " aud Female Temple — Tho City — Houses — Courts, etc. — Seriices and Attractions — The Confucian System. LETTEH XXXlrl. Shanobai. - - - Page 319, FasMge from Ningpo — TLe Fire — The Captain's Speech — Our Church — " For to go and aec tho Raras " — Firemen's Muster^A Desirable Acquaintance — Tnou System of Religion — A Eida under Diffienl- ties — Cremorne Gardens — Sik-a-wai, and Incidents of Ride. LETTER XXXrV. Shasghai, - - - Pago 336. The American Arms at Formosa — A Horrible EKCCUtion — Bmall Feet — The " Glorious Fourth " — Boat Racing — Chriatiamty in ChinSi — Oulline of Chinese Government — Kiles and Kile-Sying. LETTER XXSV. PooTOo. - - - Page 347. Craising for Sanitary Parposes — Ningpo and PasseuBCrs— Cbusaji — TiDghai — " Chickens for Sailors !" — Beauties of Pooloo — Temples, Serricea, Devotions, and Duties — Prayers — Introduction of Bud- dhism — Doetrinea — Present Condition — Sncred Flowora — Genii's Well— Surf Bathing. 1 CONTENTS. LETTER XX.XVI. HoKQ KoFO- - ■ - Page 36B. 3too to Shanghai — "Homeward Bound " — EsdWment — Hong Kong -Our Fleel^TyphooD Season. LETTER xsrsvn. Hong Kohq, - - Fags 368. rransfeiwd to United Statei Flag Ship HarKbrd— Tha WaiiliusBtt and Wyoming go — A glance at the Hartford — Another Typhoon. LETTER XXXYUl. NioiSAKi, Japan. - - Pago 375. ong Kong to Nagasaki — "Winter's Coming Again" — Rumore — Japanese Traditions. Basis and Eorm of Govemment, Laws, Etc. — Death of the Adnural'a Secretary — Piracy, and arciTai of Ship- wrecked Par^, LETTER SXXIX. Hiouji, Japan. - - - Page 390. eare Sagaaaki — Simonosa3ti — Wonderfnl Dwarfs, EM. — Hioga — A Bad ChriBlmiia— Marc Rnmora — " Opening the Ports "^Prospecta of Japan—Go over W Osaca— The Cily— Tycoon's Palace— "The Barge bus Capsized 1 " — Bringing off the Living and the Dead—Our Drownsd Shipmates — A House of Death — Return to Hioga— The JPnneral — To Osaca by Land — Laws in regard to Christiaaitj — Pet- (bction of Japanose Police — Pagoda, with its Temples, Inn, Etc., in Oatakirta of Oeaca — In tho Cify-r" Necessity the Motliar of Inven- LETTER XL. Hong Kong. ■ - - Pago 396. etum to Nagasaki — Transferring— Nagasaki lo Hong Kong — Gam- bling — An Adventure in Canton — The "Feast of LanleraB" — Go np to Wharapoa — Chinese mode of Printing and ManufactnTa of Books — Diet of Common People — A Chinese "Tea Drinking" — A Glance at Chinese History — Boundaries and Extent of China — Pop- olfition — Ready for Home, ITER SLI. Page 411. Homeward Bound " — Passage from Hong Kong — Singapore — Ma- horaelana — A Charming Ride— The Eiorcha — " Hnrobn^ing " — Ar- rival of the PiscBtaqua— Fruits, Etc. CONTENTS. XVll LETTER XLII. Cape Town, South Afbica. - Page 422. " Homeward Bound '* Again— Anjer Point— A Blow— Hole-in-the- Wall Simon's Town — Cape Town. LETTER XLHI. St. Hblbna. . . - Page 425. Cape Town to St Helena—" The Fourth" — ^Ladder Hill— Jamestown —"The Briars "—Plants and Stones— " Willow Cottage"— The "Cabbage Tree"- The Tomb of Napoleon— Old TiOng House— Hutt's Gate — Superficies, &c., of St. Helena. LETTER XLIV. Nbw York. - • - - Page 435. Oar Last Passage— Home Again — Farewell. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAQE. J. B. Lawrence, frontispiece. Macao, China, 140 Street Barber, 146 Shanghai, China, 174 Smoking Opium, - • 238 Whampoa Reach, 254 Pagoda Anchorage, Foochow, 306 Hong Kong, China, 365 Tycoon's Palace, Osaca, 386 LETTERS. LETTER I. U. S. S. Wachusett, Boston Harbor, ) March 1, 1865. ) AIy Dear R. : At last my long cherished desire is about to be attained — tJjLBi of going to sea. You know how strong that desire has l>een, how long and eagerly I have striven to attain it, and now that success is about to crown my undertakings, you can l>etter imagine my feelings than I can describe them. It was y^oiir earnest request that I would write you at length con- cerning what I might see, hear, or think, that might savor of interest to you, leaving me to select such matter as I might deem interesting. At the same time you promised that "w-liatever should fail to awaken the interest anticipated sliould be as thankfully received as though it had accom- plished the desired end, in short, promising in all cases to tafce the will for the deed. In view of such a request, so ''^'Vorably conditioned, I could not do less than I did, — cor- dially promise that so far as it should lie within my power, I vould gratify you. About a week ago I learned that the Wachusett would soon ^ ready for sea, and that she was bound for China. Tfiat country, above all others, I have ever been anxious to visit, wd, as a favorable account of the Wachusett oflScers had been given me by a friend who was acquainted with them, I 2 (9) 10 CHINA AND JAPAN, was induced to volunteer for her. So many of my applica- tions to be sent to sea having been refused before, I was a little apprehensive that this one might share a similar fate, but when the Marine Guard was detailed for the Wachu- sett this morniYig, I found myself to be one of the number. There were fifteen of us in all ; one sergeant, two corporals, and twelve privates, constituting what is called a " Sergeant's Guard." With one exception, I have no acquaintance with any of them, but so far as appearances go, I should call them an intelligent body of men, such as know their duty and will not hesitate to perform it, and among whom I shall find some worthy and congenial associates. In the close relationship that we, of necessity, must sustain, I shall know them thor- oughly ere long. We were ordered to have everything in readiness to go on board that same forenoon, and although the command came unexpectedly to us all, we set to work packing and making the many necessary preparations for the change from barrack life to shipboard existence, and long before noon all were ready. Then came the leave takings — parting with the friends and acquaintances that we had made whilst together in Barracks. One and all were agreed that we were fortunate in being selected for the " Wachusett's Guard," and " a pleasant cruise — an interesting cruise — you are going to have," were their words as we shook hands and said " good-bye." A final inspection under the " Arcade ! " then we slung knapsacks, and, to the sound of the fife and drum marched to the lower end of the Navy Yard, where the Waehusett was lying alongside the wharf. But one regretful face did I see in the " Guard," and I do not wonder at its being regretjvl, foi* H. has but a few months longer to serve, and already has had nearly forty months' sea service. Arriving at the wharf we marched on board the Waehusett, over planks thrown out from her after pivot port — ^the Waehusett, which is to be our AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 11 e fop the next thirty months at least. Not veij attrao- idTfi or home-like ilid it appear to us — e^erylhing in uproar 3 confusiou, and dirty — awful dirty 1 We found the crew on board before ub, which nombers about one hundred and acTenty-five men, of almost every l^lor, shade, and nationality. Some of ihem were dressed in 1 clothing, some in the regular man-of-war-man's suit, And others with a part of each. It was an easy matter to determine that they had just come from the " Guard O," by p dirty appearance, and in the way that they kept all seasious ahout them ; seated on a dirty box, black- g (for clothing) between their knees, and tin-pot, pan, and ■poon, ^thor held in their hands, or fastened to a belt about tii6 ivaist. Many of ihcm were inloxieated, and were ex- iitbiting the usnal phenomena of such a condition, — singing, Blumting, and fighting. After an inspoetion by the excculiye officer, we were pM^ mitled to go below, and, after finding onr quarters, we set to worlc cleaning them u[i and preparing a place for our bag- i, which arrived shortly after, and was stowed away. It wa^ now dinner time, hut owing to the confuBion which ev- eiywhere prevailed, no dinner had been prepared : but we managed to satisfy the cravings of our appetites with sundry » of cold meat and bread which we had had the fore- tliOugbt to bring with us from the Barracks. Immediately after coming on board three Bentries were posted and a corporal placed on guard, whose duties are to Me that no one leaves the ship or comes on board without t^nnisdon from proper authorities, that no liquor is brought to board, and that good order everywhere is maintiuued ttiwijghout the ship. These are the prominent duties of the lUiinc Guard, but in addition, there are numberless other 1*« imgiOTlant ones which they are required to perfi»m, so ■lial, although Ihey have nothing to do with the managing and wuibg of the ship, they can boast of no more ease or leis- OK Ikui the seamen. 12 CHINA AND JAPAN, The unoccupied moments that I have had to-day have been spent in a survey of the ship, in which I was accompa. nied by a boatswain's mate, who, being well versed in every- thing about the ship, was able to impart much valuable in- formation. The Wachusett is a screw propeller, of one thousand and thirty tons burden ; bark-rigged, carrying top-gallant sails ; is two hundred and thirty-seven feet length of keel, and about forty feet beam ; and carries a battery of ten guns, one one-hundred, and two thirty pound Parrot rifles, on pivot ; two one-hundred pound rifles, and four thirty-two's — smooth bore — on broadside, and a twelve pound boat-howitzer. Her tall, slender spars ; long, low, beautifully modeled bull, and the gracefulness with which she sits upon the water, have compelled all competent judges to pronounce her to be one of the finest vessels in our navy. All are already disposed to be proud of her, and provided that her sailing qualities prove to be equal to her outside appearance, none could ask for a better ship, ■ • > The to'gallant forecastle is an unusually large one, extend- ing nearly to the foremast. Underneath is a fine, roomy place, where the men can find shelter in cold or stormy weather. There is the scuttle-butt (in which water for drinking is kept), the Captain's galley, and cable compres- sers. There are also hooks for about twenty-five to swing their hammocks underneath this forecastle. Just forward of the foremast is a hatch, with two ladders leading down to the berth-deck, and another one just abaft the foremast. Continuing on aft to the upper cabin bulkhead, come succes- sively the capstan, hundred pound rifle on pivot, fire-room hatches and smoke-stack, the four thirty-two's on broadside, main-mast, engine-room hatch, steerage and ward-room hatches, two one hundred pound rifles on broadside, ward- room sky light, mizzen-mast, cabin hatch and sky-light, bin- nacles, and helm. The poop is about twenty-five feet in ^ngth, underneath which is the upper cabin. One of the AND A VOYAGE THITHER. ^^ thirty-pound rifles is mounted on the poop, auv the forecastle. The bulwarks are about four fei thick and strong : on top of them, extending fro castle to the poop, are square troughs, about eigh wide and deep — the hammock* nettings ; in these ^ Ham- mocks are stowed every morning protected from the weather by a thick, painted, canvas covering. Leaving the . spar-deck and going down to the berth-deck by the ladder at the foremast one finds himself in a dark crowded, dirty, ill- ventilated hole, and, at present, in the greatest confusion imaginable. Just picture to yourself such a place, and then consider, that although barely seventy-five feet in length, it is the place where nearly two hundred men must eat, sleep, and in a great measure live ! About ten feet of the forward part of the deck is partitioned off*, and is used as an apartment for prisoners — ^in naval 'parlance de- nominated the "Brig." Close by this are two apartments, two feet square — ^the " sweat-boxes," and near these are two reals containing large hawsers. The " galley " occupies a central position on the deck, and is said to be an uncommonly good and convenient one. Extending along the sides of the berth-deck are iron rods about four feet high, called "jack- stays," to which the black-bags are fastened. Ranging up and down on either side of the deck are the mess-chests, four feet long and two feet wide and deep, in which are kept the dishes and some articles of food. In the after corner, on the port side, is the Paymaster's Issuing-room, and in the oppo- site corner are two small rooms, one of which is the Ser- geant's Store-room, and the other the Surgeon's Dispensary. Between these rooms are two coal-shutes, and a reel holding an eleven-inch hawser, leaving a narrow passage-way behind them, in which is a table, at which I am now sitting and writing to you. The berth-deck is separated from the fire- room by a double-walled partition of wood and iron. Underneath the forward part of the berth-deck are several OHINA AND JAPAN, Store-rooms, the Yeoman's room, and the powder magazines. Underneath. the after portion are the holds, chain-lockers, and water-tanks. The berth-deck is lighted by means of small, round aper- tures in the ship's sides, whicli are closed by thick circlets of glass, set in iron frames, and called ** dead-lights." If these were but cleaned of the dust and cob-webs that now cover them, the ship would be far lighter than it now is — lighter in both acceptations of the word. Of the remaining parts of the ship I will make mention in some future letter, when I have had more time and better op- portunities for examining them, and am better acquainted. I have liad as yet no good opportunities for forming an opin- ion of the crew, and should I narrate my experiences thus far, with them, there would be nothing but what you might see and hear every day around any rum-selling tavern. So I shall wait for something better. Now, provided your patience, even, has held out thus far, I imagine that I hear you saying to yourself — " I think that L. really needed all the promises that I made him ; I shall have to take the will for the deed, and if all his letters are going to be of this stamp, I am afraid that they will fail to awaken the interest and pleasure that I hoped and expected to derive from them." Have patience, my dear R,, I know that the most that I have written thus far, must seem dry and uninteresting to you ; but yet, exercising that liberty of selection which you so kindly granted me, I thought best, in the first place, to give you some description of the place that for so long a time I must call my home, and some little insight into my duties : then, I shall be the better able to devote my whole time and space to the narration of the interesting incidents of the cruise. So I have devoted this introductory letter to the "^■"resaid description and insight, and now I think that I can e you, that in my next letter you will find a change letter. AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 15 LETTER II, U. S. S. Wachusett, Boston Harbor March 4, 1865. My Dear R. : ■} A cold, drizzling rain has baptized our first three days' stay on board the Wachusett — the beginning of from two to three years of such existence. Of course you wish to know bow our time has been employed, so I will tell you. One and all have been as busy as bees, and hard at work from morning till night in making the thousand and one necessary preparations for sea. In commencement I must narrate to you my first night's experience. Leaving barracks in such haste as we did, 1 was not sufficiently careful in slinging my hammock, as I fonnd out by an unpleasant occurrence. I was very tired and sleepy, and was folded in the embrace of Morpheus almost as soon as I had got into my hammock, but had been in this agreeable situation but a very few minutes when " down I came by the run," the clews having slipped out from both ends of the hammock. I was so seriously injured by the fall, that I have been unable to do any duty since. Did you ever sleep in a hammock? If not, you have missed one of the greatest discomforts there is in the world. Before trying to impress upon your mind wherein that dis- comfort consists, I must GltsI endeavor to give you some idea of the construction of a hammock. Take a piece of canvass or strong cloth, six feet in length and three in width, and make ten or twelve eyelet holes in each end ; then, in these holes fasten — securely, mind you — strong cords, about two feet long ; and the other extremities of the cords, at each end, fasten to a 16 CHINA AND JAPAN, ring ; by means of the rings, hang up the hammock on hooks, so placed that it will be stretched nearly as much as possible ; now place in it a mattress to lie upon, a blanket for covering, and the hammock is ready for use. Be very careful, now in getting into it, else you will meet with the same mishaps tliat I met with in my first attempts. First I tried getting into it the same as though I was getting into a bed. The result was, I went completely over it, striking head foremost on the deck on the opposite side. Next, I made the attempt from a camp-stool, but that plan ended like the first, by my being on deck. The third trial, I took hold of two ham- mock hooks overhead, and linally managed to swing myself into the hammock, but had to keep firm hold of the hooks to prevent my falling out ; and there I lay, not daring to let go, or move even. To make this more impressively disagree- able, you need to be slightly sea-sick, feel miserably in gen- eral, and have the ship rolling and pitching about wildly. But to return, you are now in your hammock, and find yourself describing an arc of a circle, with your head and feet elevated at an angle of about forty-five degrees, whilst the sides of the hammock are drawn up around you, so that it would not take a great stretching of the imagination for you to imagine yourself in a bag. In this undertaking you would have great assistance could you only be situated as we are — each man's " billet," or sleeping room being but four- teen inches wide. Seven men sleeping in a bed eight feet wide affords the best comparison that I can make. When one turns or moves, the motion is communicated to all ; conse- quently we are ever pleased when a neighbor is called to go on post. This for the past few days has had its drawbacks, for, when he would return after his two hours of guard duty were over, just as we were beginning to enjoy the luxury of " more room," we had a wet bed-fellow. Besides this, we can never count upon having more than two hours of continuous sleep, for, not yet acquainted, the "corporal of the Guard*' AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 17 often wakens the wrong man — usually, the right man last. Still, notwithstanding all these many discomforts, old sailors Avould prefer a hammock to sleep in, to the best bed ; and I haven't the least doubt but that 1 shall turn to it as the source of one of my greatest enjoyments during the cruise. The " old salts" had a hearty laugh this eve, at the expense of a landsman who was searching for his hammock on the " East Boston side of the ship," saying that he placed it there this morning. After he had searched the hammock nettings on that side many times over in vain, and was about concluding that the hammock was lost, some one told him that the ship had swung with the tide since then, and he would probably find it on " the Boston side ;" and so he did. A few words now about mess arrangements. The crew is divided into messes of from ten to twenty persons, and one of the number is called the "cook of the mess. He does not cook, but receives from the purser's steward the daily ration allotted to his mess, ties the various articles together in bundles and marks them with a stick or talley, on which is I cut the number of the mess, and takes care of the mess chest, the mess pots, pans, dishes, and other articles belonging to the mess in common. The rations are always served out on the day preceding that to which they belong. Each mess cook delivers his share to the ship's cook, who, with an assist- ant, prepares it all in the " coppers" under his charge. Just hefore noon he takes a sample to the officer of the deck to ! show that it is properly done, and if so the mess cooks re- ceive the " grub" again from the ship's cook. At noon they 1 spread painted cloths upon the deck, place the ** grub" and dishes upon them, and then the boatswain's mates pipe all iiands to dinner. The same ceremonies are observed at break- fest and supper, with the exception that the only articles re- ceived from the ship's cook is her water for coffee and tea. All the messes have contributed greater or lesser amounts with which to purchase extra stores and conveniences for 2* 18 CHINA AND JAPAN, their messes, and the berth-deck is now fairly lambered up with barrels of flour, potatoes, and such like articles which they have purchased. What I have mentioned refers exclusively to the men or crew, each division of officers having its own apartment, its own cooking apparatus and special cook. Of these divisions there are four — the starboard, steerage, or " gun-room," thut some there are amongst us who have taken their last look of country, friends, home, and all they hold most near and dear. We are all hoping that we may not be of that number, but Death, the tyrant, ever disregi\rds our wishes, and takes us, ready or not. No, it is not probable that the Wachusett will prove an exception to the general rule, bat AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 19 es out many that have bid home and friends " good- ►rever. all at this time are not sad ; a large number of the re far from being so ; while many of us are scarcely keep back the tears from our eyes, at the thoughts of g separation from home and friends, and the possibility er beholding them again, there are many " poor Jacks" ave no deeper feeling than that they are leaving a .ble place where they have whiled away a few jovial in a social way. He may think of the changes that cur before he returns, but all that kind of gratuitous will be little more than a flash across Jack's mind it finds utterance at all, the following stanza may give vent: *' The sea bird wheels above the mast, And the waters fly below, And the foaming billows flashing fast, Are leaping up the prow. Hurrah ! hurrah ! the shores we quit, And those who are within, May they be safe and standing yet, Wlien we cross these waves again !" 2': CHINA AXD JAPAN', »ETT, "> », We-st Indies, > 16, 1865. ) LETTER III. U. S. S. Wachcsi Fort de France, Martinique, March Mt Dear R.: I will now get a letter in readiness so as to be able to mail it at the first opportunity. I left you in my last letter just- as we were taking a farewell look at the United States. Bat we had only a few minutes given us for the sad thoughts which were fast overcoming the most of us, when the boat- rrWfiin and his mates piped ''all hands to muster." All crowded aft on the lee side of the quarter deck, and then the *;xf:cutive officcr gave all their stations at the battery, divided tli'j crew into watches, and appointed them to different parts of the .^hip: forecastlemen to the forecastle, foretopmen to the foretop, maintopraen to the maintop, and afterguards ta the after part of the ship. Over each division two captains were appointed. The marines and firemen were not included in tliis division, they having their peculiar duties to perform. One watch — composed of one-half of the seamen — is kept on deck all of the time at sea, to manage and take care of the ship, and is relieved by the others every four hours. The watch from 4 to 8 p. m. is divided into two watches of two hours each, for, otherwise one portion of the crew would have the same hours every day. These are denominated the " dog-watches." When " all hands " are called to loose or furl sail, get up anchor, or any other business that requires '^ all hands," then no one is excused unless on duty at the time that will not admit of being left. Other musters a few days later, gave all their stations at AND A VOYAGE TtillTHER. 21 loosing and furling sail, and fire-quartei\s. The marines have the thirty-pound rifle on the poop, are stationed at the main try-sail in loosing and furling sail, and at the boats' falls, in fire-quarters, with instructions to allow no one to lower a boat but by the orders of the commanding officer. Our course after leaving Boston was easterly, steaming • along against a light head wind, until Wednesday morning, when it was altered to the southward, and we set fore and aft sails. Our destination was a dead secret^ of course : many knowing conjectures were made as to the first port we would make, but no one knew excepting the Captain and Sailing- master ; because, if we all knew, the Captain would be no wiser than ourselves, and the profound humbug of mysteries would be lost to our wonder. The first two or three days out were spent by the crew in Lolystoning the decks, ladders, and gratings, with sand, scrub- bing the paint-work, cleaning the bright-work at the guns and cleaning and polishing up, and putting everything in or- der generally. In all this they had such good success that at the end the Wachusett appeared like an entirely different ship from the one that first met our gaze lying alongside tbt' wharf at Charlestown Navy Yard. Removing the dust and cobwebs from the "dead-lights," made the berth-deck much lighter, as I supposed that it would do. Monday evening we crossed the Banks of Newfoundland. The night was very dark, and we came very near running down a fishing schooner which was " lying to " there. As it was we carried away her jib-boom. She had not a single light displayed, and if there was any one on " look-out," he must have been asleep^certainly he was not attending to his duty, else he would surely have seen our lights. I should think that their narrow escape would make them more careful in the future. A few days out, and the crew showed some signs of arous- ing themselves out of that lethargy in which they had bec.i 22 CHINA AND JAPAN, since leaving Boston, and showed themselves to be a smart, lively, fine-looking body of men. But what a variety of color, shade, and nationality, they present ! If Adam should look down upon them from the windows of heaven, he would hardly recognize them all as members of his family. One evening I had just finished " posting my Journal," when hearing the sounds of mirth on deck, I went up to see what was going on. Before leaving Boston the crew purchased a variety of musical instruments, boxing-gloves, and foils, with which to enliven the dullness and monotony of shipboard ex- istence. But to return : arriving on deck I found that the sounds of mirth which I had heard, proceeded from a party dancing to the sound of the violin and guitar. A performer was soon found for the banjo, one for the flute, another for the tamborine, and yet another for the bones. After a few minutes employed in tuning, all struck up together, and then one and all joined in a " good old-fashioned breakdown," and with such zest and gusto as to fairly make the Wachusett tremble. Many of the officers came forward, aiid although the sense of their dignity forbade them from joining, they ap- peared to enjoy the sports but little less than the actual par- ticipants, as was manifested by their cheers, and cries of " keep it up." When all were tired of dancing, the music struck up some familiar home airs, and then the sports of the evening were varied by singing. What a purifier and elevator of the mind and thoughts is music ! How much it tends to draw forth the higher and better feelings of one's nature ! This is true, wherever found or under what shape. Some excel- lent songs were sung that night, and well sung, too, and I, for one, was never more impressed with the power and influence of music, than I then was impressed. All felt more cheerful and happy for these few hours' pleasure, and so far as pos- sible, have repeated the sports thus inaugurated, with some variations, every night. Sometimes we were too tired for AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 23 sports, as the greater portion of each day was taken up in exercising with the battery, and making ourselves acquainted with our several duties. We have yet hardly become accus- tomed to the great change in the weather, which daily grew warmer as we proceeded further to the southward, and even before the first week had passed, the last overcoat and muffler were stowed away, awaiting some future need. The first Sunday out, I was for the first time introduced to the manner in'which the Sabbath is regarded and kept on board of a man-of-war. It is regarded by nearly all, more as a day for rest and recreation than anything else. There is some faint attempt made outwardly to acknowledge the Sabbath, to be sure, but then it is obvious to all that it is done only because the law so requireth, and the Captain wishes to conform to the requirements of the law in this res- pect. Many, I found, were seriously questioning and doubt- ing in their minds whether or no it was really Sunday, but finally concluded that it must be, as rice was served out the day before, and " rice is served out only for Sunday dinners." It being decided that it was Sunday, all set to work clean- ing, polishing, and dressing the ship and themselves for the Captain's inspection at 10 a. m. Then all assembled at their stations at quarters, dressed in their best, and with their arms cleaned and brightly polished. Could one only stand on the forecastle during a Sunday inspection, when everything is so neat and clean, and previously knowing nothing about a man-of-war, the sight would impress that one, that a sailor's life was elevated above that of common mortals. But one shore week's experience would thoroughly dispel that illusion. After inspection " all hands " were called aft on the quar- ter-deck to muster, whilst the sea-service of the Episcopal Church was read by the Captain. This is omitted on many men-of-war, and done on the Wachusett, as I said before, because the Captain wished to fulfill the requirements of the law in this respect. I express the feelings of many when I 24 CHINA AND JAPAN, say, that I should like very much to be so situated as to be able to attend church every Sunday. Without this privilege, and surrounded by the ever attending influences of a man- of-war, we will find it extremely difHcult, sometimes, to make Sunday appear like Sunday to us. But many months,' years in fact, will intervene before that time comes again. After service, the remainder of the day, by the kindness of the Captain, is given to the crew to smoke, write, read, and do such-like things for themselves, as they may choose. But once a month, on these sacred Sabbath mornings, we have " general muster," when the articles of war are read to us in all their thundering terrors, and the often recur- ring penalty which closes so many sentences, " Death, or such other punishment as a court martial shall adjudge" — the halter and the bullet. In speaking of this, the remark of an eminent surgeon in our Navy is brought to my mind. " There seems to be a strange overlooking, or inconsistent view of human nature or Navy nature is not human nature. In the first place there is an expectation that every one who goes on board of a man-of-war, is to hold all sorts of deaths — by hanging, shooting, or drowning — in utter contempt. Indeed it seems as though he is to seek them as the natural end of existence, and to be hung or shot for avoiding them ; and yet these are the official threats ' To hand the wretch in order/ " and once a month, on sacred Sabbath mornings, they are fero- ciously shaken over our heads, begetting no other feelings than contempt or defiance. Another statement by the same surgeon is very truthful: " The assembled wisdom of the nation, by slow and painful processes, got a kind of inkling that terror and threats were not the most expedient means of governing the American seamen ; and they devised a code which, in pay, privileges, and honorable testimonies, offers a reward for fidelity and obe- AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 25 dience. But this ray of sunshine was not permitted to gleam through the death penalty and the gloom of the ar- ticles of war. It was a mistake. How many beside the Chinese are befogged by ' ola custom ! ' " Since leaving Boston, I have been on duty as one of the captain's orderlies, and in this capacity I have been able to see and know much about our Captain. Those acquainted with him can but agree with me in saying that he is a tlii)rough seaman, a perfect gentleman, and one of the most polished scholars ever met with. He is a very firm, intelligent looking man, of about forty-five years of age, and, although my ac- quaintance with him is short, I have no hesitation in saying that the appearance is but typical of the man. After serv- ing through the Mexican war, he resigned, and was spending a quiet life at home at the outbreak of the rebellion. He promptly offered his services, and was accepted, his old rank <>f Lieutenant being given him. He was at the passage of ^orts Jackson and Philip, and the capture of New Orleans. ■A-fterwards he did good service on the coast of North Caro- "Da, and was rewarded by the rank of Commander in the ^Ggular service. His latest services were rendered while in ^Himand of the iron-clad Essex, and he is spoken of as be- ^^g " one of the best fighting men on the Mississippi and Red '"^Vers." Comnaander Colvocoresses, was first appointed to *he command of the Wachusett, but Captain Townsend subse- S[ 'Gently received the appointment upon his making the request. -*-t is rumored that at* the end of this cruise he intends to ^^sign and return to citizen's life again. With him as Cap- ^^iti, I am certain that we shall have a pleasant and inter- acting cruise. Xieutenant John W. Philip is the executive officer. He ^® a fine looking, well formed young man, of twenty-five ^^ars of age, and, judging by his appearance and actions th"" ^^i*, is a man of great determination, and an almost ind ^^bk will. He is a graduate of the Naval Academy, 26 CHINA AND JAPAN, although so young, has seen much service. The other officers I have seen but little of as yet, and therefore am unable to introduce them to you. Will only say that as yet, I have had no occasion to disagree with my friend in his good ac- count of them. From the thorough cleansing of the ship yesterday, as well as the polishing down, the crew augured that we would soon m«ike some port, and in this surmise, they proved to be correct ; for, when I went on deck this morning, I found that we were " lying to," and had been thus since midnight. Many anxious eyes were looking out for land, and soon their search was rewarded, and the joyful cry heard " land ho !" A little later, and the high, dark line off our starboard quar- ter, resolved itself into two parts, looking like blue clouds in the distance, but which were soon known to be the islands of Dominica and Martinique. Both of these islands are very high and mountainous. Mt. Solferino on Dominica, attains to the height of 6,075 feet above the level of the sea, and Mt. Peeler on Martinique, to 4,430 feet. Our run from Boston was characterized most of the time by clear, pleasant weather, a smooth sea, favorable winds, and little, if any, sea sickness. To-day is certainly one of the most beautiftil days I ever saw, just such as one would desire on which to behold a foreign shore for the first time. Soft and balmy is the air, blue and gently rippling the sea, and everything in nature apparently striving to make all things appear beautiful to us, and to create in us fit thoughts and feelings to enjoy whatever is beautiful. As soon as it was daylight, we got up steam and started ahead again, leaving Dominica on our starboard bow, and Martinique on our port. The islands are situated about forty miles apart, but they are so high and mountainous that it ap- peared to be barely one-third that distance as we passed be- tween them. Dominica presented to our view nothing but a huge mass AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 27 of ban^en rock, but, on the other hand, the prospect was en- tirely different. More than one I heard to exclaim, " how beautifiil !" as they gazed upon the shore of Martinique. Indeed it was truly beautiful, its beauty enhanced no doubt by the great contrast it presented to the last view of the country we had left so recently. There the ground was covered with ice and snow, and everything barren and dead. Here everything is fresh and green, the hills clothed with verdure, the trees covered with leaves and fruits, and the air warm and balmy as that of our summer. The change seems almost wonderful ; 'tis like going to sleep in mid-winter, and not waking again till mid-summer. At such a time, and in such a scene one may be excused a little poetical emotion — nay, would not one without it have that unpoetical soul which the master of the human heart has told us, is " fit for treason, stratagem, and spoil ?" It has been remarked that, " islands, all islands, are poetical exis- tences in themselves : their philosophy is poetry, mysterious in their sea boundaries, cut off from the grave, solid, unchang- ing character of the mainland ; they grow gradually from the deep sea depths, by the microscopic labors of the coral, insect, or thrown at once into the upper air amid earthquake throes, and volcanic convulsions, shaking the earth to its cen- tre. They are the abodes of pirate heroes, and goat skin dad Cruisers." Nothing of this kind, however, is the story that Martinique has to tell. It simply has to boast that here Josephine, the first wife of Napoleon, was born, and that here her early childhood was passed. But to return to where I was before this digression, near- ing Martinique, whose shores we were all admiring so much. Deep gullies cut the mountainous sides — beautifully wooded glens, through which charming rivulets could be seen tracing their course by the flashing and sparkling of the waters in the sunlight as they leaped over some miniature precipice. Between these wooded glens were patches of sugar cane. 28 CHINA AND JAPAN, grain, and vegetables, the whole dotted here and there by a dwelling, embowered in a grove of orange trees. I was on duty at the time, and perhaps I did not conduct myself exactly a la militaire, standing up in the after pivot port, and with my little glass taking a view of everything that we passed, in short, utterly unconscious that T was not on some pleasure trip, instead of being under the rigid dis- cipline of a man-of-war. But no one said me " nay," and I can but think that the Captain kindly permitted it all, for several times I noticed him smilingly watching my enthusi- astic observations. Let it be as it may, I enjoyed it all, and was not reproved, so / am satisfied. One of the principal benefits which I am to derive from my being in the Navy, is to see foreign countries, and to learn something of the manners, customs, and other points of interest about the peo- ple. So I shall gratify my curiosity, and benefit myself, whenever an opportunity offers itself, so that it can be done consistently. Farther on, and leaving the high lands, we next sailed along the shores of a low, level section of the island, and which was in a high state of cultivation. Thus alternating, at one time having the country nearest us high and moun- tainous, then low and level, and our course constantly chang- ing as we followed the shore line, we finally entered a large indentation of the coast on the southern side of the islands, and at noon dropped anchor, about half a mile from the pretty little town of Fort de France, situated at the inner- most point. The harbor here is large, and, although merely an inden- tation in the coast, it is said to be very secure, as the wind seldom blows from the direction of the open sea during a storm. There is but little shipping here, two or three mer- chant vessels, two English and three French men-of-war, with a few schooners and smaller craft comprising the whole. The town stretches along a slightly sloping pebbly beach, AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 29 and as viewed from the ship, it is exceedingly neat and quite picturesque, with its small whitewashed, tile-roofed houses, and, scattered here and there, fine large mansions situated in beautiful gardens and fairly embowered in trees. To the left of the town is a bold, rocky eminence, on the summit of which. stands a large stone fortress, from whose tall flag-staff floats the tri-color — Martinique belonging to the French. Be- hind the town the land rises abruptly so as to form quite a high mountain. About half way up its side, a small cottage is pointed out to me as the one in which Josephine was bom. I should like very much to go on shore this afternoon and sit awhile under the trees of the pretty little park, near the middle of the town, and which looks so charmingly cool and inviting from the ship. Although but little more than two weeks ago I was on shore, it actually seems as though it was more than as many months. Oh for a good ramble in the country ! To fully realize this great deprivation, one must liave a nature which leads him from the trammels of city life, xxiust to the fullest extent be susceptible to the charms of crountry life — in the country finding what is most congenial to his nature. This is the better, the holier, the happier solitude to which the poet invites. It is to the wilds and groves of Nature. " God's first temples ere man learned To hew the shaft and lay the architrave And spread the roof above them, — ere he framed The lofty vaults, to gather and roll back The sound of anthems." There indeed may the lonely ones " Go forth, under the open sky, and list To Nature's teachings, while from all around, Earth and her waters and the depths of air. Comes a still voice." 30 CHINA AND JAPAN, For those having such natures, it will take a long time, if it is ever done, to become fully reconciled to this close con- finement of shipboard existence. As soon as we were anchored, numerous small boats came hurrying off from the shore with washerwomen, and other persons desirous of our patronage and of supplying us with the many comforts which sea-worn people are apt to require. The most attractive articles to us were those oranges, pine- apples, bananas, cocoanuts, and other fruits peculiar to a trop- ical clime. Those of us who were so fortunate as to have some of the rhino^ rapidly invested it in that inviting stock. We tasted tropical fruits for once. Most of the crew have a good supply of "stamps," but those are almost worthless here. Many times have I seen a silver dollar refused to be given for a five dollar greenback. As I sit here engaged in writing, the soul-stirring strains of the " Star Spangled Banner" are wafted to my ears through the open port, from the French "Liner's" band played out of compliment to us. The air has ever been a favorite one of mine, but doubly dear and impressive does it now seem to me, as I hear it in a foreign land, from foreign sources. Near me one is accompanying the air, with the words, and more deep, more heartfelt than ever before is the wish now uppermost in my mind that ever " The Star Spangled Banner in triumph may wave, O'er the land of .the free, and the home of the brave." AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 31 LETTER IV. U. S. S. Wachusett, St. Peirre, Martinique, ) April 2, 1865. j Mr Dear R. : Mj last letter to you, left us anchored at Fort de France, after an eleven days' passage from Boston. The two days succeeding our arrival were employed by the crew in clean- ing up the ship and " putting on her harbor dress," so that filie was in proper trim to receive the numerous visitors who came Sunday afternoon. The French are the ruling race here. Beside them there are a few English merchants, and also a few Americans, but the great mass of the inhabitants are negroes. In every respect these are an exact counterpart of those in our own country. As you have doubtless become fully acquainted during the war with the characteristics of the negro, and the many phases of slavery, I will not weary you by a lengthy account of them as seen here. Tuesday, March 21st, we hauled alongside the coal-wharf, and in the afternoon commenced " coaling ship." We began at two o'clock, and in less than four hours the bunkers were all filled, more than two hundred tons having been taken in. The celerity with which this coaling was performed, excelled that of any which I ever saw or heard of where manual labor alone was employed. To me it presented an exceed- ingly novel and interesting spectacle. The forward and after pivot ports were both let down, and planks thrown out from them to the wharf. The workmen, were almost exn' women, and they carried the coal in little shallow (each holding about three pecks,) upon their heads. 32 CHINA AND JAPAN, having commenced, they kept up a continuous stream — com- ing in through the for'ard port with the full baskets, and pass- ing out through the after port with the empty baskets. One out of every twenty of the baskets was weighed, and record of the number carried in, was kept by an apparatus somewhat resembling the smaller size of Fairbank's platform scales, which made a mark every time the platform was stepped upon. I watched the human stream passing in and out, dur- ing the entire time that it was engaged in coaling, without tiring, and, although " coaling ship " is ever an unpleasant, dirty time, I could'nt help feeling a little regretful that it was so soon finished. The ship was " washed down," and we re- turned to our old anchorage that same night. An altercation just now between the purser's steward and some berth-deck cooks, determines me to say a few words about government rations. One and a quarter pounds of fresh or salt beef, or three-fourths of a pound of pork, twenty-two ounces of soft bread or flour, or sixteen ounces of hard bread to each man ; eight quarts of beans, or ten pounds of rice, eight pounds of roasted coffee or a pound and one-half of tea, and ^fteen pounds of sugar to one hundred men is the daily al- lowance. In addition to this there is an allowance of six pounds of butter to one hundred men twice a week, and salt, vinegar, pickles, and molasses, almost as much as desired. The only articles the government furnishes us for breakfast and supper, are hard bread and coffee, or tea. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, we have pork and beans for dinner. The pork that we have had thus far, if not " still- fed pork," bears a striking resemblance to it, and decidedly is not fit to be eaten. The beans are boiled with the pork, thus making a soup. Tuesdays and Fridays we have for dinner " salt horse and duff." The latter is a sailor's plum pudding with musty dried apples for the plums. Yet if it is well made, and one is hungry, the " duff" is quite palata- ble. Tn ctp.t some idea of the "bait horse," take a piece of loZs leather thoTOXighly impregnated with sall-pelre, and chew It may seem almost incredible to you, nevertheless i( is ,e. that nearly all the salt beef we as jet Lave received, hag beeo nearly aa tough, tasteless, and devoid of nutriment the piece of sole leather with which it has been comjmred. Tbursdays, we have canned meat and dessicated potatoes. few like the bee^ and I must confess that sometimes I liave had serious doubts of its being beef. The potatoes bear B close resemblance to sawdust, before they are cooked, nor does [he resemblance cease, with the cooking, for then they lave scarcely any more tjiste and nutriment than the saw- dust would have. I have seen dessicated polatoej that were good, but 1 am convinced that those furnished us are but the refuse of starch factories. Sundays, we have canned beef ■nd rice. The rice is boiled in water with a little salt thrown in, and eaten with molasses ; we find it quite palatable, ea- ,t>e<»fiUy when half'Staroed, as we usually ore on Sundays. The hard bread resembles soda biscuit in outward appear- Vice, but there the resemblance ceases, for it is made simply of flour and water, and, as the name implies, U very iiard Not only tbis, but tlie bread we have is veiy old, musty, and lurly alive with weeviL Of the coffee, tea, butter, and other Uticles, I will not attempt any description, and will only ^V- Ihst not a single article do we have served out to us that I woald not be ashamed to oSer the meanest beggar at home. 1 have not told you all this about our rations to weary you widi unhappy complaints ; but to deal justly by you, and to ptesent you in my letters, not only with the scenes before my •jeBibut also with the spirit which looked out upon them, *sd to show, I hope, for the good of those who come after nxi bow many gratuitom annm/ances are added to those nec- ttMrSji incident to a Naval life. The government pays ■naugh for these articles of food to have those of the very I«M quality, and so I suppose it Ihitds that they are. The (mtnutors are the ones that in the main are blamable for the 34 CHINA* AND JAPAN, unwholsome, unpalatable food that we receive — men of such small despicable souk, that for the sake of adding a little more to their wealth, do not hesitate to bring years of discomfort and suffering upon thousands of those very ones who are de- voting their lives to protect them and their ill-gotten wealth. For such persons there could be devised no punishment too severe, or but what they would rtchli/ deserve. The govern- ment and especially the heads of the Navy Department are by no means entirely freed from blame, because they pro- vide means-enough to procure good, wholesome food ; it is their duty to see that that food is procured. By so doing they would have more efficient, better contented seamen, and this, too, without any extra expense. One day as I was on duty shortly after our arrival at Fbrt de France, Mr. Philip came aft and speaking to several " messenger boys " that were standing there, said, " Boys, I presume you all wish to go on shore. Now you may go just as soon as you are able to ' box the compass.' " Of course I was longing to go on shore, too, so after a moment's hesitation, I went up to him and said, " Mr. Philip, will you rank me with the ' boys ' in this promise ?" To this request he smilingly replied, "yes, Orderly, I will." " Well then," I said, " I will do it now," and thereupon I began and going around both ways, " boxed the compass " to his satisfaction. So much for having studied Trigonometry before " going to sea." When I had finished he said, " Well, you may go ashore as soon as your duty will suffer you." One beautiful afternoon, a day or two after this occurrence, accompanied by two or three friends, I sat out for the shore upon my promised liberty. A pull of about five minutes brought us to the little pier at the foot of the park near the middle of the town, and then, 1p " • the boat, I, for the first time placed my foot on I A VOYAGE THITDER. 35 foreiga soil. All the others in the parly had been in many fereign countries, and were not a little amused at mj enthu' eiasm. One remarked, "you will delight more to place your fiwt on the shore of your own country, after you have been absent two or three years, than you now are to place it on those of a foreign country." Doublles^ this may be traet but even supposing that it may be so, I cannot on tbal ac- count, see any reason why I should not take aa much pleas- ure as possible in what I now have. Thedesire for this priv- ilege has been strong with me from my earliest recollections, and now I have hopes of its being gratified. Several negroes were lounging about the pier, and under the trees of the park, and those were the specimens of hu- manity to whom we were first introduced. As we landed, off went the hats of more than a dozen of them, and eveij mark of politeness and courtesy in their power was shown as as tbey came forward, either soliciting alms, or offering their servicea aa guides, each one urging that one's respective merits or needs. To some of tbe most wretched looking we gave a few coppers, but soon were forced to desist from all such intended acta of humanity, as we found that vie only tn- ereated the number of the needy and suffering. The impor- Cunities of the applicants for the position of " guide," were at length quieted by tbe selection of one of the most intelli- gent appearing of the number. The park we found sborn of many of its apparent beauties as viewed from the ship — being but a barren common, unfenced, and whose only at- tractions were a few locust trees, and a fine mounment near its center, erected to the memory of Josephine. Now for a look at tbe streets — ipieer streets you would call ihem, who have walked on brick aide walks, with broad car- riageways inlorvening. They are for the most part mere alley-ways, and. escept when there are shops or stores, alleys between drear walls, with here and there gateways and doors opening into the grounds and houses behind the walls. The 86 CHINA AND JAPAN, pavement is composed of small stones, in many places set in regular figures, squares, diamonds, etc., and sometimes lined off by white stones. It looks very prettily, and the streets are very neat and clean, for, being inclined planes, they are thoroughly washed by every rain, and besides, through most of them a stream of water is constantly flowing. The houses are for the most part very small, kept scrupu- lously neat and clean, and in general whitewashed on the out- side. But besides these, there are many fine looking man- sions, situated in fine, deep yards, filled with flower-beds, and groves of trees peculiar to a tropical clime. The better class of stores are tended by fair French dames, but those are few in number, being by far outnumbered by the small, insignifi- cant shops, kept by some aged or decrepit negress. At al- most every turn of the street we encountered venders of cakes, fruits, etc., either having their wares exposed for sale on tables and stands by the sides of the streets, or carried in baskets on their heads. At the back of the town is a fine, large, granite reservoir, from which the town is supplied with water. A visit to the cottage in which Josephine was born completed the list of " sights " to be sefen at Fort de France. Everything there we found to be plain and unas- suming, with no special attraction excepting the fine portrait of Josephine, taken in her youth, and which hung against the wall in one of the rooms. Whilst lying at Fort de France, the " Guard " had their first introduction to "quarter-deck guard." Would you know who or what that might be ? It is simply to stand on the quarter-deck from morning until night, dressed in full uni- form, cross-belted, and with muskets at hand ready to be pa- raded at a moment's notice, for any person of distinction that may choose to come on board. I know that it presents a fine, showy appearance, this parading in our gay, showy uniform coats and hats, white pants and belts, and with everything bright and shining; but if those who delight in such perform- AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 37 ances could be obliged to stand for a few hours, thus coated and belted, in the hot sun, I am sure that they would be less zealous for such empty displays. An animated running commentary was kept up during the day. " I wonder what we are kept up here for, like so many fancifully dressed monkeys," says one. " To show what they can do, and that the Americans can be as foolish and silly as either the French or English," an- swer three or four. " Well, I wish that whoever is the cause of our being here, had to stand with us in this hot, broiling sun," says the first speaker. " If I had only thought that we would be obliged to use this monkey rig, I would certainly have thrown mine over- board before we came in here," says another. " I wish that it was time to go on post," says a third, and all echo the wish. Yes, we all used to feel relieved when . the time came for us to go on guard, for then we might get some shelter from the melting rays of the sun. Now don't think that in speaking of all this I am finding fault with our ofiicers, for I am not. Why ! did they desire it ever so much, they are powerless to demolish such great mountains of ancestral humbuggery as these, so strongly are all nations bound by, and so completely under the sway of, ** ola custom." During our stay at Fort de France, a French frigate and an English line-of-battle ship came into port, and for three or four days we were kept on the quarter-deck all of the time in readiness to honor their officers whenever they might choose to come on board. During the day I would wish that these vessels had not come in, but when evening came and we, after being dismissed, had had our supper, and had gone up upon the forecastle for our evening chat and smoke, then these ships* bauds would cheer and enliven us with some good old home air, or those of their own country ; and, in the enjoyment of the present, we would forget the CHINA AND .JAPAN, annoyances of the past, O, Music ! what better tribute c I give thee than that thou ever callest to mind the aweet pleasures of life, and ever awaken'st in my heart purer a nobler thoughts ? Wednesday, March 29th, we intended coming up hw and with this intenlion, at 4 p. m. we got up steam, weig anchor, and started in high alyle. But in etriving to exce ouraelves, our grand sweep brought us out of the deep n of the harbor, and soon we found onrselvea hard aground o a ledge of rocks close under Ihe fort. Boats from I French and English vessels were immediately dispatched t( our assistance ; hawsers were passed from us to these v but all our united efforta were ineffectual to haul i After an hour or more spent thus, Captain Townaend, tuT ing to Mr. Philip, said iu his calm, quiet way, " that we are aground and unable to get off at present think tbat you had better give the men their hammoeka i we will see what can be done in the morning." Fortunate] it was low tide when we ran aground, and in the morning ai high tide we were easily hauled off. The next day a of divers from the French frigate came and thoroughly e amined the bottom of our vessel, rejoicing us by the i thai no damage had been done with the exception of te off a part of a sheet of copper. This they repaired the fi lowing day. With everything as good as it was before w yesterday we got under way and the second time started fi St. Pierre. Without any accident we arrived here,a of twelve miles, in less than an hour. The harbor of St. Pierre is an open roadstead, afford no protection against the storms which are freijuent in th latitudes, and consequently it has scarcely any shippinj Fort de France is the seaport of the island, but St. Piei by far the largest town, and is the capital. It is very pn situated on both sides of a small ridge which extends 1 AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 39 from the sea. A large portion of the houses are elegant mansions, situated in beautiful and extensive grounds — the abodes of the foreign residents, the Consuls, and the wealthy. The streets are narrow, but the same order and neatness pre- vail here as at Fort de France. I was on shore yesterday evening, but saw nothing worthy of special note more than what I have already mentioned. Some time during the night the U. S. S. Connecticut came into port, and is now lying near us. Dame Kumor told us to-day that one or more piratical vessels were cruising about these islands, and that the Wachusett with the Connecticut were to cruise about for them. Another story that the Dame told us is in the opinion of all more probable. We have a roving commission for one year, to cruise after piratical ves- sels, more especially in the East India waters, and at the ex- piration of the year, are to report at Macao, China. Yesterday terminated our first month on board the Wa- chusett, and all seem to acknowledge that it has been fraught with more pleasure and interest than was anticipated. It truly has been a good commencement to the cruise, and if it prove typical of the whole, I, for one, shall be satisfied. 40 CHINA AND JAPAN, } LETTER V. U. S. S. Wachusett, Porto Grande, Cape Verdes, April 29, 1865. My Dear R. : On the 4th of April we sailed from St. Pierre, bound for some point on the coast of Africa. The first few days out were very unpleasant — the wind blowing strongly from the northwest, the sea running very high, and all accompanied by frequent showers of rain. The sixth day out, it cleared off, and during the remainder of the passage we had delight- ful weather and everything as pleasant and favorable as we could reasonably expect or even desire. We were under sail alone during the greater portion of the passage, and had such good breezes that we logged on an average more than six knots per hour, and arrived here this morning, having made the passage in twenty-five days. The first incident of interest during the passage was " gen- eral-quarters." At these we were exercised the same as if we were in action — calling away boarders, repelling board- ers, fishing and securing masts that had been shot away, se- curing rigging, putting out fires, working the battery, and acting out everything that might be necessary to be done in an actual engagement. Considering that this was the first time that the most of the crew had witnessed anything of the kind, they did very well. The Captain and Mr. Philip both warmly commended us for our creditable performance. The second noticeable incident of the passage was present- ed in our scrubbing hammocks for the first time. As yet I have had no duty assigned me since on board the Wachusett which I dislike more heartily than I do this scrubbing ham- AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 41 mocks. Shall I give you some insight into the performance ? Well, unsling your dirty hammock, (that is, take out the bed- ding and remove the clews,) and with the rest of the crew spread it down upon the deck. A good stiff brush, a bucket of water, and a piece of soap, are essential requisites. Koll- ing up one's sleeves and pants, (of course you are barefoot,) are not only indications that one is in earnest in one's work, but also that there is a desire of keeping the clothes clean, which otherwise cannot be done. But we had everything prepared to commence operations. After wetting the ham- mock, soap it over thoroughly, and then, down on your hands and knees, take the brush and scrub away with all your might and main for half-an-hour or more. I can promise that you will find it about as tiresome a task as you have ever undertaken. I scrubbed upon my hammock for more than an hour, and then stopped, not because I had got it as . clean as desired, but that I was completely exhausted. — When I was ready to hang it up, the only vacant space was close by the newly tarred stays, so that when it was taken down it was nearly as clean as when I commenced to scrub. Several were in the same condition, and when hammocks were presented for inspection, the order was, " Scrub them over." In washing clothes nearly the lame process is gone through with as in the scrubbing of the hammocks, and like them the clothes are hung up on lines extending from one mast to another, or between different parts of the " standing rigging." There are four " wash-mornings " in a week at sea, and two in port, when the washing must be done. As we are now fairly settled down into the regular routine of " man-of-war life," I will give you the divisional routine *♦ for exercising. Mondays, general quarters. Tuesdays, 1st Division exercise with the battery, 2d Division and marines with small arms, and 3d Division with single-sticks. Wed- nesdays, 2d Division and marines exercise with the battery, 3d Division with small arms, and 1st Division with single- 3* sticks. Thursdays, 3d Division exercisee with the Iratfer^ 1st Division and marines with small arms, and 3d Divisio with single-sticks. Fridays, battalion drill with small am and fire-quarters, or, if it is in port, man and arm all boats Saturdays, cleaning, and Sundays, inspection and rest. casionally tlie Powder Diviaion and tlie Engineer exercise with the battery or small arms. Now, perhaps our "daily routine" would interest ] At daylight in port, or at seven o'clock at sea, " all hands' are called. Only five minutes are allowed for dressing, last ing hammocks, and stowing them in the " nettings." If mo» time is taken, scraping shot or some similar punisbment i inflicted. The first business of the morning is lo "wash thi decks down" and clean up generally, Go to breakfast at 1 A. M. After breakfast clean the bright-work and go ti quarters at 9 A. m., when (he battery, men, and arms are in spected. After quarters the divisions have their exerdse for the day, and which occupy the greater portion of the forB noon. Go to dinner at noon ; " turn to" at 1 P. M., and c whatever work may be required. Go to supper at 4 P. bk with the usual "meal hour" for eating and smoking. Tht hammocks are " piped down " soon after sunset, and then ti crew are permitted 'lo smoke and do whatever they nu choose until 9 p. m., when those not on duty are supposed U he in their hammocks and to keep quiet. This is the routiii* when lying at anchor, but when at sea there are some vai lions. A portion of the crew are on deck all of the tii and they perform the whole of the work. Instead of n o'clock they " pipe down" at eight. All this that I have spoken about — scrubbing hammockt iHid daily routine, refers esclusively lo the enlisted ; The several divisions of the officers have each a large ri in common, and eadi officer bfls either a bunk c nam, small to be sure, but thus dispensing with all need fi^ bammocks as well as the vexations attendant upon the pos AND A VOyAGE THITHF.K. 43 session of Ihem. At quarters one or more oflicera are attached to a division, wlio Buperintend the working and taking care of the lattery, etc., themselves under the general saperintendence of the executive officer, who is in turn under the commands of the Captnin. At all limes there ts an offi- cer on watch, called the officer of the denk, who, during the time he Las the deck has full charge of everything about the ship, subject only to the orders of the Captain or executive officer. Last Thursday was devoted to a thorough cleansing of the ship. This was imperatively called for, as the lice and other ▼enuin usually attendant upon the early part of a ship'« " commission," instead of lessening in numhers seemed to be alarmingly on Ihe increase. Every one's clothes were in- spected, and those that were found to be infested with Ihe hostile vermin, the clothes were thrown overboard and the possessors "scnibbed." Next, all the hammocks and blankets were washed and rinsed in hot water and, lastly, the ship was washed down fore and aft with boiling hot water. Thus th« Termin received a " foretaste of that which is to come." We have not been troubled with any signs of them since " the cleaning," nor do I think that we will be troubled again this cruise. During the passage we both met and passed many vessels, several of which we "spoke." 'Tis very pleasant thus to meet and converse with those similarly situated — far out in the midsl of the ocean, to learn one another's ports of de pa r- inre and destination, to exchange greetings, to learn the most interesting incidents of each one's passage, and send messages to those we have left behind. Yes, 'lis very pleasant, and a pleasure known only to those " who go down to the sea in ships and do business in the great waters." It has been well espreased by a familiar writer, that "in a cmninon voyage, if one be asked what he has met, he may uiswer, ' Wavesl^waves ! waves !'" since all else that might 44 CHINA AND JAPAN, attract or be noted — the many nameless associations upon the ocean — these must be seen and felt to be known : " For who can tell, save he whose heart has tried And danc'd in triumph o'er the waters wild, The exulting sense — the pulses mad'ning play. That thrills the wanderer o'er the trackless way ?" When I went on deck at four o'clock this morning, to take my watch, I ascertained that we had been " lying to " since midnight, on account of our proximity to the land. At day- light we started ahead again, and a few minutes later we heard the welcome words " Land ho," sung out from the mast head. Soon we were able to see the land from the deck, looking like a thick cloud just rising above the horizon. Now get down the map, my dear R., and unless you have the whole world dotted and spotted geographically in your eye, look out the little islands of St. Antonio and St. Vincent in the Cape Verde group, on the coast of Africa just a little north of the line. The first mentioned of these islands was the earliest sighted by us, but we did not approach near enough to examine it very closely — only saw that it was very high, mountainous, and sterile. There is a volcano on the eastern side which had an eruption about six months ago, and another is daily expected. About noon we rounded the southeastern point of St. Anto- nio, and then sighted St. Vincent, some twenty miles distant — our destination. This island presented the same physical characteristics of surface and soil as those given of St. Antonio. We passed between these two islands, and after numerous alterations of our course, at length we entered the mouth of Porto Grande harbor, and finally dropped anchor about half a mile from the shore. The harbor here is a large indentation of the coast, nearly semi-circular in form and affording a secure anchorage. The mouth of the harbor is between four and five miles wide, nearly three-fourths of AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 45 which is occupied by a high, narrow island, which protects it from the northwest winds. About midway from shore to shore, just inside of this island, is a large conical shaped rock, about one hundred feet high, and called " Bird rock," from the number of birds which used to resort there yearly to deposit their eggs and rear their young. I think that " Target rock " would be an equally appropriate name, as it has been used as a target for centuries by the men-of-war visiting the harbor, and many hundred tons of metal have been hurled against it. A closer view of the land only con- firmed the first impressions of its physical characteristics — that it is high, bold, and mountainous. Upon the starboard side in entering the harbor is a succession of peaks, whose outline, bears a striking resemblance to the profile of Wash- ington, arid is designated as " Washington's Head " on this account. Possibly I might not have noticed the resemblance had it not been suggested to me; but then, it did not require a great stretch of the imagination to mark the resemblance. Experimentally I asked a man standing near me, if the out- lines of these peaks resembled the profile of any one that he could think of, and was almost immediately answered " yes, Washington's." I am sure that the man had never heard of the resemblance being noticed before. Certainly I never saw a countiy so barren and desolate as that of St. Yincent. Not the least sign of vegetation can be seen, not even the green moss so commonly seen upon rocks. The whole vista is naught but one barren, rocky, brown waste. The town of Porto Grande lies on a sandy strip, which circles around the inner point of the bight or indentation which forms the harbor. It is a small, insignificant looking town, and vnth one or two exceptions the houses are all small wooden huts. About midway up the mountain, behind the town, is a small, dilapidated, brick fort, mounting two or three guns, and over which floats the Portuguese ensign, St. Vincent belonging to the Portuguese. The fort is worthless 46 CHINA AND JAPAN, as a defense for the harbor or town, but I think that it an- swers every purpose ; in fact, I cannot conceive why they should need any defense to retain this barren island. There are a few European residents at Porto Grande, representations of almost every nationality. By far the greater portion of the inhabitants however are African negroes, all bearing the usual stamp of ignorance, sensuality, and the more low and debasing vices by which man is liable to be enslaved. All of the water consumed by the inhabit- ants has to be brought here from a distance of about fifteen miles, and sometimes much suffering is occasioned by its scarcity, when stormy weather prevents their procuring a supply. There is but little shipping in the harbor at present — some ^ve or six small merchantmen, two Portuguese war 8chooners> with a few schooners and small craft comprising the whole* I was pleased to see the glorious stars and stripes floating from the peak of one of the larger vessels — ^a sight seen by us for the first time since leaving the States, excepting on the Connecticut and our own vessel. It hardly seems pos- sible that two or three rebel privateers could have damaged our commerce as they have done. Although a fact to be •lamented, yet it is a true one that there are few merchant- men bold enough to fly the stars and stripes away from the immediate protection of oifr navy ; so that now there is hardly one to be seen where before the war there was a score. I hope the day is not far distant when the glorious emblem of liberty can be borne with safety and with pride to the most remote comers of the earth. I have never doubted that that day will some time come, and only hope that soon again we shall see our country occupying a higher and prouder posi- tion than it ever occupied before. AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 47 LETTEK VI. • U. S. S. Wachusett, Porto Praya, Cape Verde,) May 26, 1865. j My Dear R.: May, thus far, has been an interesting and eventful month to US ; prominent among whose items of interest are the news of the capture of Richmond and the surrender of Lee's army — ^thus virtually ending the war — ^and the cowardly assassina- tion of President Lincoln. We received the news by a French mail steamer, May 6th, which brought us English papers con- taining the fuU particulars. After inspection the following day the Captain called us aft and read to us the " news from home." Over the first portion of the news one and all were much rejoiced, and I do not think that there was one but that was saddened by the latter. How much there is in those few words that were repeated so many times that day, "The war is over and President Lincoln is dead ! " Yes, the war is over and the " unholy, wicked rebellion" is now^ thing of the, past. Such good news yet seems almost incredible, almost too good to be true. But our source of information was so reliable that there does not remain the least doubt of the truthfulness of the report. I wish that I might hear that the report of President Lincoln's death was a canard, but the news of that as well as the other comes to us too well au- thenticated to admit of doubt. The particulars of the assassi- nation that we received, as well as those of 'the plot to assas- sinate the most prominent men throughout the country, were very fully given to us, but as you are doubtless better in- formed of them than I am, I will not repeat them here. We all hope that all future plans and attempts of this description may be frustrated. 48 CHINA AND JAPAN, There were traits in President Lincoln's character, and points in his administration, which many would have changed, if possible, but methinks that all good, loyal persons will up- hold me in this — that he always had the welfare of the coun- try a# heart in his every action, to the best of his ability doing what he thought was rrght and proper ; and, by his wisdom and firmness of command he has brought this great and ter- rible civil war to a successful termination, as well, and bet- ter perhaps, than any other one in the country could have done. We could all have desired that he might have lived to see the. country in the garb of peace again, thriving and prosperous as she was before the war. Still, after all, per- haps it is for the best that he should have been removed by death, for now henceforth he will be remembered with honor and respect, if not as a martyr. • The day following that upon which we heard of his death, the flag was kept at half-mast, and half-hour guns fired all day, out of respect to the memory of President Lincoln. At muster that day, an order from the Captain, in conformity with the order from President Johnson, was read, that every officer should wear crape on his left arm for a period of six months. While lying at Porto Grande we had our first target- practice with the battery. We fired six rounds at that an- cient and common target, " Bird Rock," from which we were distant about two miles. The first three rounds fired were . with perqussion shell, about half of which struck the rocb exploding the instant they struck it. For the last two roundsj solid shot were used, about two-thirds of which hit the rock. For the first time, the Captain said that the firing was un- commonly good, and warmly commended the captains of the guns. But the greater portion of these had filled that posi- tion before, so that in reality it was not their first practice. Still they will be able to do much better when they become accustomed to the guns. AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 49 • I went ashore but oDce while we were at Porto Grande — there being nothing in the place to tempt me to make a second visit. The town consists of about forty small, mean-looking, wooden buildings, the greater portion of which are situated CD one street, which runs parallel with the beach and close to it We did not derive much pleasure from our ramble about the town, for we not only saw nothing worthy of note, but at every step we would sink ancle-deep in the sand» Consequently we did not devote much time to this ramble? bat spent the day in walking along the beach searching for shells, and in playing billiards in the small, low-roofed build- ing near the landing. It may seem but a trifling incident to you, but to us, the getting of six barrels of sugar was one of the most interest- ing incidents of our stay at Porto Grande. For more than two weeks previous we had had none in the ship, and had been obliged to use molasses for our coffee. Coffee ajj^d tobacco are necessaries of a sailor's life. Give him those as he wants, and almost anything will be borne ; but you if interfere with these necessaries, either by lessening the amount or by a deteri- oration of the article, you are injuring him more than in any other way could be done. To the uninitiated it is almost like taking so much nauseous medicine, to drink a cup of coffee as it is usually made in the service ; but, by degrees they become accustomed to it, and at last, think of it as one of their greatest luxuries. We made preparations early in the morning of Tuesday, May 9th, for leaving Porto Grande, but it was late in the evening before we were under way. The night was clear, the moon at its full, the wind favorable and strong, the sea smooth, and the passage of that night was certainly the most pleasant we had thus far had. Our course lay much of the time in a channel between numerous small islands, and in many places this channel was quite narrow and circuitous. With a navigator less skillful than our sailing-master, Mr. 50 CHINA AND JAPAN, Grove, and on a less clear and pleasant night, with the attend- ing favorable circumstances, it would have been hardly wise to attempt to go through there in the night-time. About 9 a. m. the next day, we sighted the extreme northern point of St. Jago, our destination, and distant from Porto Grande about one hundred and fifty miles. Two hours later we came very near the northern coast of the island, along which and the eastern side we sailed some thirty or forty miles. The land was hilly and broken, but not rocky, and looked as if the soil were quite fertile. Just now everything is sere and dry, owing to the long-continued drought. It was a few minutes before sunset when we entered the harbor of Porto Praya and dropped anchor about a mile from the town — near the old anchorage of the Constitution. It was here that she was lying during the war of 1812-15 when the English sloops-of- war Cyane and Levant appeared off the mouth of the harbor. As she started to go out in pursuit of them the fort which defends the town fired upon her. She for the time paid no attention to the firing of the fort, but went out and captured both of the English sloops, and then returning, she demolished the fortifications. The harbor here is an open roadstead, facing the east, and when the wind blows from that direction, it is said to afford a very poor anchorage. The shipping here is less even than at Porto Grande. The town is situated on a bluff about one hundred feet high, near the innermost point of the harbor. It contains some fine buildings, but on the whole presents an ancient, de- caying appearance. To the right and front of the town is the fort, built of stone and brick, and mounting some fifteen or twenty guns. Near the northern outskirts of the town is a wide, deep ravine, filled with orange, banana, and cocoanat trees, which are now covered with their ripe fruit. The in- habitants here, like those at Porto Grande, are for the most part negroes, with comparatively few Europeans. The latter D A VOYAGE TUITHER. 61 ■e principally Portuguese. St. Jago, with the rest of the ape Verde group, beiongs to Portugal, and Porto Praya is be capital of the group. Have yon any idea that it is a very difficult thing for us to t money ? By the rules of the Navy we are not supposed to any of our wages until the end of the cruise. How- (er, the advancing of money is left to the discretion of the nnmsnding ofHcer to a certain extent; but he is restricted I " special and necessary wants." This rule applies only to loae "for'ard of the mast," the officers drawing their full ij eveiy month. If one of the crew asks for money it iilmosl always results like the following i^ppUcatiou of an which I heard this forenoon : going up to where Ok Captain was standing, and doffing his cap, he said: Captain, will you be so kind as to give an order to tlie Payioaster to let me have a little of my wages?" The Captain replied, " "Well, B., how much do you want ?" "Five dollars, sir." *■ What da you wish to do with it?" "Well, sir, I am getting to be so old that I can't eat the jovemment rations as well as I could thirty years ago, prhen I entered the Navy, and I would like a little money Vrlth which to get me some ' extrafi.' " "Of course nothing but specie will be of any use to you. Kon every dollar in specie costs the government more than two dollars in currency, and what is given you can oniy be diarged dollar for dollar. The government is deeply in debt, ~" * every means of economizing must be employed. I am aorry in your case, but I can't let you have any." Notwithstanding all this reasoning there are over thirty ship drawing on an average more than one landred dollars eaeh, in specie, every month, and whieh is •o invested by the greater portion of them, as to more than dcnhle tlieir pay. It does seem strange that the government thus pel and pamper a few, viho have nearly every- .o CHINA AND JAPAN, iIiimn; ili.it vs«u*vl Ih' il(* fortunate, there are twenty that :i:\- ?:Oi '.v'. S !*\' \\v' .M\o *\v* .y"';; i'.erv we have had "fresh pro- \ X ,»'tN ■ s-;- :';.' •■ v ■,.'.•,• >:'.iv.v leaving Boston. The cook o; OsU'"'. t:*v VN 'wv ^.^ .i ;u\v of meat — varying in size ao- Ov"'.i ' ; .,* : 'v- "I*" '.v.- v*:" vv:i "a his mess — which he tallies ;» ^ ! .' : . X V . .' *• ,\ • v : V, *' s.'*-v. ;" ri vV, jx^tatoes, cabbage, and x* . ■ ' X- • \ ■.' :v' ..;>,>, .t ■ •.* . . \"* *: i.:.-^.** ;."y added, and the whole '.V .'•• .,'V" ^v V .-. *-,r ..-e z;ioh cook draws his own ;• \% .' . ,1': J -o .: .vrc-.i* ;.vr::o-:i of the soup. The V, L . ,v ' .V- : .v.".-.- v.* ,*. .; ,1-.; ::; a large quantity of ^^.i , . .. ^^ ".x •• .: : .:>.,".>c^ .,:: :l:e soup is excellent J . ".* ^. X X , , . X ■■; •. :>:.** '. \. X .-. -...■.. . ; :.<:•:: alrosether when- . . '■ , . •. ... '.' *. - «.-: . .i: :: is in this as in . ■•/> .•-■;■ .: ^. -•/. '- •". » '-'-^ service, however v.- ,- ' -v..:;. :». x .. ■ . .■ . : ^r , ■••.:::•: i"-i for the men, ' -;. ,' '. ..V V. ., , ^ : V . ,1-; -j: ;o anv trouble - ' •■ \-. - -x _^ . ^.. .,. ^;.;j^ :.: 7 a Visit to '■- v" V ■ ■ V ''-■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ " "■ :-t— •- i*»a: nve ^ •■ ^ ■ ■ - ■■ , .>■" >-:~: ^.-cT word - ' "■ ■ - ^ , ' " .rr^'-' :? the -^ - ..'-■- -.,:*•'.■:> iriX'ause ^ - . - . ; . • ..; :- ::-^:r. had - ■ ■" "•■■-■ " ' ■-■" • -' V "• - ': > is :»:o oJien -'Ui- ..:::: -. I.,- v.r- : .."» .■ .. -i. • -j^ -^ iTrs.v ibe AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 53 good name and the privileges of a large number by his mis- deeds. Some time in the early part of May we had news that England had declared war against the United States. This statement came so well authenticated that we had scarcely a doabt of its truth. Knowing this you will not be surprised to leam that when an English war-vessel appeared off the month of the harbor about a week ago, the greatest excite- ment prevailed among us ; boats were hoisted up and secured, steam got up, the battery loaded, and every preparation made for action at a moment's notice. But with no apparent hos- tile intent the vessel came in and quietly dropped anchor near us. A boat was sent to her, which brought the report that it was the English corvette Zephyr from Cape Town, South Africa, and " homeward bound." Her latest advices from home made no mention of there being any hostility be- tween England and the United States, nor of the prospect of there being any war. We have since had many a good lana:h with their crew over our " false alarm." Ever since we have been lying here we have had a great number of visitors from shore, of almost every age and na- tionality, and of both sexes. With one of the fair visitants, a young lady of about eighteen, a large number of our offi- cers and crew have become quite deeply smitten^ and in one case, a more serious affair than love is rumored. '' Breach of promise" and "twenty paces" are the common reports, bat however true the former may be, I have my doubts of the latter, on account of tlie timidity of one of the parties. I must confess that she is certainly one of the most lovable of the female persuasion that I ever saw — almost perfect in fiinn and feature. She has a more speaking eye, and a more sweet, winning expression than the generality of womankind possess. Now you must not think that I am smitten at last by female charms because I am thus enthusiastic in my ac- ooont of this particular fair one. I trpst that I can see and «^4 CHINA JlKB japan, apprtvinte true boAiity and loveliness without getting spoony {\\> u*o H vorv expivs^ive word) over the possessor. I was »ol a littlo amused a tew evenings ago at the remarks of a ixmuviUhI ^*UHi^r otli^'er who had had the privilege of being her <">*cort and jjuido in showing her the iteiqs of interest aWui (ho ship Uiac atWrnooa. He said« ^ I was more thao hah* seriouslv rt^volving in mv mind the pros and cons for rv'uiaiuiu^ herv and wiuuing her heart and hand. But when I oame rv> sum them all up« I tl'und that the cans bj far out- muttlxrred the /vv** so 1 have coooluded that not yet would I • give up the shijC '^ la relaiiug a jH^rsotial experience* I express that of sev- eral shipmates* i.'hi bv>ard ship there are manj leisure mo- meats* and thesje we have lar^Iy devoted to study. We dnd cha: the beuedt* resuUiog therefrom, are two-fold. On • the one hand we are :ocreasui:J: our s^ore of useful knowl- eu;;e* arid on the vHber we are weavinij abont as one of the SLOi^c eiSeccual defeases d^rabsc ibe many cemptadons and jioral dauccer^ or uiau-oz'-war lirv. We are so constituted :iiai in or»iei: Co s^eep oar aii::d> la seme degree of moral pu- ricy we miisc be surrv^a-jided by ocrrespondic^y pore influ' •inces— oercaLaly bv euccyia :o balance ihe bad ami impure* Woman* whenever she is worthy to be called by chat name^ aai» an inihience cio euncble and puriJty tiie mind and thougfats-* T!ie :r?idi oc rae aesjertien may be seen by con^aring thos^ "hiir huve been tuder ±is> iuiiiieuce wiiii uhose chat have beeou ienrlTHu or Ic. even ii* ihev have been surnjunded br other*^ "■ •» • minds aoble und jjood. FrcoabN in ao ulace in dhe ii his iuduence aiore „'om[,>ieceIy Ioi>c or seeded more on 1 3iam-j[-war. \> I >aic in :he ir^ oiace, liie employ— aienc dnd iiv»rr^ioii woicii siudv i*.ves% 'Jiav -iu :uach. a? coon- :tr*)aiance :iie Jad iiiaiueuc<;'s. Lost ifriday. iiay IJiii, we 'Muda -ivnry r^refjaracon for Tiiiir way, iuteudioji :u :ak-i jut ieparriure ^om Ltfaac i^y. But wheu we came di^ heavi^ up tlw AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 55 port anchor, the cable came in with no anchor attached to it, the cable having parted and left the anchor at the bottom. ** So much for intending to sail on Friday," the superstitious **old salts" said. All preparations and intentions of depar- ture were indefinitely postponed, the cutters called away, and searching for the lost anchor commenced. After two days spent in dragging, two divers from shore were . employed ; but, after one day's fruitless labor, they became discouraged, and would come no more. Two of our own crew next at- tempted to find the anchor by diving, but they gave out be- fore the first day was over. Yesterday we tried steaming about the harbor with the starboard cable " hove short," so that the anchor would just touch the bottom, hoping that it would catch hold of the missing one. But« like the others this plan proved unsuccessful, and the missing anchor is missing stilL This evening the Captain said that it was use- less to continue the search longer, and that we would leave here to-morrow. We all hope that he may not alter his de- temunation, for we are heartily tired of Porto Praya. 56 CHINA AND JAPAN, LETTER VII. U. S. S. Wachusett, St. Catherine, > June 28, 1865. J My Dear R. : Dame Rumor was truthful, for the next day saw us take our departure from Porto Praya. We found the fiea to be very rough, and many of us werejtLSt a little sea sick. But I remember one that was not sick in the least — the steerage cook, a big, burly negro, " black as the ace of spades," and who rejoices in the sobriquet of " Jib Bogue." Hia ioud singing, and side-splitting " haw, haw" could be heard as usual while cooking the dinner, doing much to enliven the spirits of all. He is decidedly the happiest man in the ship. Friday, June 2d, 1865, will long be remembered by many of us, for that was the day on which we were presented to Neptune the Monarch of the Deep. For this ceremony, preparations had been made before leaving Boston, but so quietly had all been conducted, that every one except those in the secret were taken by surprise. This ceremony is not so common as it was formerly, but, whenever the assent of the commanding officer can be obtained, the " old salts " sel- dom miss the opportunity of enjoying the sports of the occa- sion. The Captain, with characteristic desire of affording pleasure and amusement at all proper times, assented to the request of the leaders, but imposing reasonable restrictions upon what should be done. At 4 p. M., all were startled by the hail off our starboard bow, " Ship Ahoy !" Tlie officer of the deck (who was in the secret) answered^ "Aye, aye, sir." AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 57 "What ship is that?" " The UaiieJ Slates Steamer Wsohusett." ** Wliere are you from, aod where are you bound." " From the United Slates, bound (o China." " I am Neptune, the Monarch of the Deep ; bring the ship o so that I can come on board." The orders of his Majesty were obeyed, and he came on —through (he hawse-pipe, J suppose ; for after a few ninutes' delay, the curtain {which had been hung up at the iretUc of the forecastle ever flince noon) was removed, and Aere issued forth from the forecastle his Majesty, Neptune He was seated on his chariot of state (the howitzer carriage* hied up for the occasion) with that ancient matron, Mrs, Neptune, by his side, drawn by ten men, preceded by a band rf music, and accompanied by all his attending train. On cither hand were bis two barbers, the one bearing a huge tin Tasor iull of notches and rust, and the other a huge swab. Jkroand him were about thirty faithful retainers armed with They marched down the port gangway — (he band playing "Lo ! the conquering hero comes" — as far as the ward. 1 hatch, then crossed over to the other side of the deck, i came to a halt by the starboard gangway. Formal per- DuidOD having been granted to his Majesty by the Captain lo have all ihe novices among the crew presented to him, preparations were made for the ceremony. A studding-sail i got up, its corners raised and the sail kept fiUed with water by the steam pumpa. Then, a platform was erected twtween this and the throne. fiverything being in readiness, His Majesty sent his re- t^Urs to bring to him all the novices (that is those that 1 never crossed the Line) and then the ceremony be- ll. The noTiee was seated on the platform, blindfolded, uflthen well lathered over with the swab, which had been Apped in a preparation of tar and grease. The knight of utuortten performed his duty, utterly regardless of the 58 CHINA AND JAPAN, cries and groans of his victims ; and, whenever they would open their mouths to complain, they were treated to a cup of salt water. This part of the ceremony finished, the victim is requested to rise a moment, the seat removed, and then when told to sit down again, barkward he tumbles into the vat of water and the hose is turned upon him. Sore, half sick, half blinded, and half drowned, after numerous fruitless attempts he at length emerges from the vat, escapes from his torment- ors, and can console himself by looking upon the other vic- tims undergoing the same treatment. The "shaving" con- tinued for upwards of two hours, until all were initiated • excepting the marines who resisted, and the officers who paid the forfeit with wine. Thanks were then given by his Majesty, to the Captain, for his courtesy and kindness; and after wishing the Wachusett a pleasant cruise and the safe return of all to their homes and friends, he departed as he came. The whole affair passed off pleasantly and was much enjoyed by all. The grotesque costumes, the cries, groans, and appearance of the victims occasioned many a side-splitting peal of laughter, and " Neptune's visit'* will long be remembered by all. Up to this time our course had been southwesterly, the wind westerly, and with all sail set we had been sailing along at the average rate of five or six knots per hour. But that day the wind left us and for three days we lay on the equator, becalpaed, under the hot, scorching rays of the sun. Hardly anything in a sailor's life is more unpleasant than to be becalmed, the sails flapping idly against the masts, and the vessel not moving a single knot during an entire day. One and all seemed disposed to echo the boatswain's prayer "Blow Good iDevil, blow, and take the lower studding-sail." June 5th we got up steam, and with awnings spread, we were more comfortable and in better spirits. In the evening a strong breeze sprung up, so that we stopped steaming and proceeded under full sail again. For a week our course was L VOYAGE TBITHER. 59 variable, sailing " by the wind," which took us well to the ■restward. Our destination when we left Porto Praya was Baid to be Cape Town, Everytliing. however, eeeined to in- dicate that Rio Janeiro was to be our next port ; and thither we would have thought that we were destined, had we not bad positire orders from the government, that under no con- lidertitiou whatever, should we cali at any Brazilian port. Tiis order was given on account of the existing hostile feel- big of the Brazilian government towards the Wacfausett wliich vessel seized the rebel steamer Florida in the harbor of Babia about a year ago. Going " by the wind " in the Tariable, or " horse latitudes,'' Isiiir from being pleasant. Occaj^ionally we would steam for R few hours, then proceed under sail alone, or for days lie bwalmed. At la.it wereceived a eteady breeze, and although il was not as favorable as could have been desired, obliging Bto" tack ship" frequently, we all hailed it as a goilsend, mucli did its coolness refresh and enliven us. Sooa after crossing the Line there were a great many ru- 8 afloat regarding the amount of provisions in the ship — e asserting that there was barely a sufficiency to last a freek. Soon all were startled by another rumor to the effect e were to be placed on halt- rations ; this caused the most iateiise excitement. First the sugar gave out and we were tbliged to substitute molasses again for our colfee and tea. A day or two later, and we not only bad no sugar for our tea^ Vuhad no tea for the sugar. Tuesday, June 13th, the cli- ' nu was reached when the Captain gave orders that the crew •konia be placed on " half rations." The greatest excitement S^ruled, and, after numerous consultations, the crew e petty offleera to represent them at the "mast'' r to get the order countermanded. An increase Ifr-half to two-thirds rations produced a momentary It was, however, only momentary, and at noon nearly Q in the ship, taking his diminished ration, in his 190 CHINA AND JAPAN, pan, went to the ** mast" and asked to see the Captain. He Game, and, after listening to their complaints, be acceded to ihii'ir request for full rations, but to their request that' Ijie •hip might be put into some port nearest us, and a fresh' sup- ply of provisions obtained, he said that he had received posi- tive orders to call at no Brazilian port, and there was no other nearer than Cape Town. So we had full rations again, but/u// only in name, not having any sugar, but little molas- ses, and half rations of bread, pork, and beans. The officers' messes were but little better provided for than those of the men ; and, for a barrel of flour which our mess had, they offered more than five times its original cost. When one is hungry, money is no equivalent for food, so the flour was not sold. The details of the sufferings from hunger daring the time that we were on half rations would be but a repetition of what too many have endured during the war, and with which you are doubtless well acquainted. June 16th we boarded several vessels, hoping to be able to procure supplies from them. We were unsuccessful in every case, their car- goes being railroad iron. Monday, June 19th, "Land Ho!" shouted out from the mast head thrilled all with the deepest delight, for we thought that the Captain had finally decided to enter some Brazilian port. But this pleasure was short lived, for about noon we came to anchor a little to the eastward- of the entrance to the harbor of Rio Janeiro. Our anchor- age was a little westward of a lofty, naked cone, called ** False Sugar Loaf," in contradistinction to one very similar^ about eight miles to the westward of it, which marks the entrance to the harbor of Rio. We lay within two or three miles of the shore, surrounded by scenery of great splendor and beauty. At least, so it seemed to us : but, perhaps our discoveries of beauties were owing in a measure to the long time that it had been since we had seen the land. Nothing, I find, 80 much enhances the beauty and worth of aajthing, or calld forth such pleasure from its sight or possession, as "■ASD A VOYAGE 61 I when ardently longed for. ■ our anchurage. Before us, H deprivation of it for a ti iut lo return to the scenery n ; the distance of a few miles, was the wild range of moun- lios immediitiely south of the channel into Kio, the most riking feature of which is known to sailors by the name of Hood's Nose," from a supposed strong resemblance to that ipeoiiage of lii^ lordship's face. " Indeed," it has been te- mrked, " the >vhole range presenta tlie outline of a colossal gure in as near eonforiuation to the human shape, as the SSgies on many lomlis of the fifteenth and aixleenth centu- ee — lyi&g on its baek, witb its head towards the sea." On our right, and very near, was a beautiful beach of lowy whiteness, stretching in a long curve to the east, be- ond the beach stretched a narrow interval of low land, DVered with grass, backed by abrupt hills and mountains, of ■rionE and beautiful outline ; the center of the sweep rising raufa above the rest, and forming a kind of crown to all round s the whole beautifully wooded and still in the luxu- ice of nature. Grand was the view in front, with a sail or two in the reground ; on our right etret^hed the white beach, green and inonntains before described ; while behind, and on efl, in the east, rolled die ocean ; all forming such a : MB will for a long time remain stamped upon my mem- rf wiUi the most pleasing remembnmces. BdI our object in slopping ofif the mouth of the harbor, a not to admire the beautiful scenery ; it was to endeavor to tKore provisions, from vessels bound either in or out of Rio, r tu cend in word and have the provisions brought out to ua. fv bonnled three vessels, but without procuring what we iitbud — all of them being loaded with coal. From one of isse veeseU, the caterer of the ward. room mess bought a Unil of tiour, or what he supposed lo be flour, tor which he five thirty dollars in gold, but having brought it on board 62 CHINA AND JAPAN, and opened it, the flour proved to be oatmeal. Meantime b vessel had entered the harbor and was out of s' I had heard much said about " the rolling grounds " at i mouth of liio harbor, and my esperience in this instoJ told me that the report bad not exaggerated. Certain! j never saw a vessel roll and pitch about more wildly i storm. Its effects were plainly marked in the great n that were made sea-sick. Whatever may have been the intentions of the £apta the evening of that same day saw us leave our anchot and star! for Montevideo. We were all much disappoini in not going into Rio, and there was scarcely one in the win crew, that would not have been willing to have fought 4 way in, if necessary. Our course for Montevideo was southerly, and for the fi three or four days, we sailed along finely with a favorable ■ very light breeze. On the evening of Saturday, June 2fl everything betokened the approach of a storni, and '■ prospect of that evening was verified in the "pampero,! hurricane that followed. E^rly Sunday morning it began rain, pouring in torrents, and accompanied by t gusts of wind. After each lull in the wind, it would c mence to blow again with increased fury. Just after d that evening, the wind hauled to about two points abafi die ■' beam, and we then close-reefed the top'Sails, and took in all the remaining ones except the fore-topmast stay-sail, and the main top-sail. When I went oo deck at midnight to take my watch, I found that the baromelfir was falling rapidly, and the storm steadily increasing, whidi it continued to do, from that time until 3 a.m. The wiad was then blowing a regular hurricane and " coming from all points of the compass." After a few minutes' lull, the storm with its gathered strengA j burst upon us, sweeping everything before i main sheets parted, and iu a few minutes the sail was ii torn into ribbonti. !Next the tbre-top-sail gal AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 63 away, and before the sail could be brailed up, it had several large holes torn in it, a^d a number were severely injured by the sheets as they flapped about. While they were at work in securing it, a noise like the booming of a cannon was heard, and upon inquiry, I learned that the fore-topmast stay- sail had burst in half a dozen places. The sail was soon hauled down and secured. Attention was next paid to furl- ing the main-top-sail which was done without much difficul- ty, during a few minutes' lull. But we paid dear enough for that lull, for the men had barely laid in from the yard when the storm again burst upon us, with greater fury than ever. The fore top-sail was the only one now left set, and every moment we expected to see that carried away. Vol- unteers were called for to go up and furl it. Five or six were found willing, but the rest hung back. It seemed almost a fool-hardy undertaking, for the topmast had been sprung early in the evening, and it swayed to and fro with a heavy thump, at every roll of the ship. Beside all this the cold was so intense as to benumb one and make it extremely dif- ficult to hold on. But the sail was clewed up as well as pos- sible, and then the volunteers, now increased to fourteen, went aloft to furl it. As there was now no sail on to steady her, the ship rolled and pitched about worse than ever. The mast went from side to side with a thump, that could be dis- tinctly heard on deck, above the roar of the gale ; the sail was wet and heavy ; the men soon benumbed with the cold, and a full hour elapsed before the sail was furled. And an hour of the most intense anxiety it was to us all ; for every moment we expected to see the mast carried away, or some one lose his grasp and go overboard, not daring to hope that we should see them all safe on deck again. And as they came down and unharmed stood by our side once more, there was a deep breath of relief drawn, and a silent clasping of hands which spoke more eloquently than words could have done. 64 OHINA AND JAPAN, The officer that had the deck during the mid watch, proved himself to be decidedly incapable of joanaginga ship during a storm, getting nervous and excited, giving wrong orders, and even losing entire command of himself. For more than two hours we lay in the trough of the sea, the seas breaking over the sides, and splintering four inch oaken planks as if they had been so much paper. Some of the guns got adrift and went from one side to the other with a thump that fairly made the ship tremble, and for a time the greatest imaginable confusion prevailed. About 2 a.m. Mr. Philip came on deck, all hands were called, and the hatches battened down fore and aft. It was about 4 a.m. whenthe fore-top-sail was furled, and the storm staysails and spanker " got up " and set. Mean- while the Captain had sent forward to his cook and had a couple of kettles of good coffee made, and so when the work was done we each had a pint of coffee. I don't think that anything ever tasted better than that coffee did then. When I went down on the berth deck, what a sight met my gaze ! mess chests, kettles, dishes, provisions, etc. were, piled up in heaps, or scattered about the deck in glorious con- fusion. But one and all were too tired to put things to rights and threw themselves down wherever they could find a place and slept until 8 a.m. In fact, some slept the greater portion of the day, hammocks not being piped up at all. Going on deck at 8 a.m. I found that we were in the vor- tex of the hurricane ; that all around us not a breath of wind was stirring, and everything was as still as death, while in the distance on every side could be seen the dark raging hur- ricane, and the murmur of its fury be heard. The spectacle could not fail to impress one with feelings of sublimity and awe ; and that imprint I shall vividly remember to my dy- ing day. I was not the only one who for a time little ex- pected to see land or friends again. Despairing of being able to reach Montevideo, the Cap- AND A VOYAGE THITHER. ^5 tain determined to put the ship' about, and steam off out of the hurricane. Accordingly we got up a full head of steam and with everything prepared as well as possible we started. We were about two hours in getting out, and I hope never to endure another moment of suspense such as was crowded into every minute of those two hours. Every instatit it seemed as if the next would be our last, and I verily believe that had the Wachusett been a less staunchly built vessel, or been less skillfully handled, we should never have seen port again. Through some mismanagement of the man at the helm, she pooped a sea, which made her tremble like a leaf from stern to stern, and for a moment it seemed as if the flood of water on her deck would break her. She could not have stood another such sea. However, with the exceptions of some holes torn in the storm sails, which were up, and a portion of the hammock nettings carried away, we experi- enced no injury while standing out of the hurricane. The sailors, many of whom have been following the sea for the last twenty years, all agree that they never experi- enced a worse gale than this " pampero " was. Yesterday we proceeded farther Uo the northward. The storm abated and the sea grew less rough, but still the waves ran very high, and we rolled and pitched about so much as to make all of us a little sea sick. The weather this morning still continued cloudy, cold, and unpleasant, but the sea was quite smooth in comparison with that of yesterday. About 10 A.M. we heard the welcome, joyous words, " land ho r* shouted out from the mast-head. This we soon ascer- tained to be the long, narrow island of St. Catherine, which lies off the coast of Brazil, about four hundred miles to the southward of Rio Janeiro. About noon we arrived off the mouth of the harbor. For about a mile the entrance is very narrow, reminding one very much of a river. The land on either hand is very uneven, but with no considerable emi- 4* 66 CHINA AND JAPAN, nences. The scenery is exceedingly wild and picturesque, no signs of civilization to be Seen, and the whole surface as far as the eye could reach, covered with groves of orange trees, and a dense anpropriate manner. 70 CHINA AND JAPAN, From the senior Brazilian naval officer at St Catherine, Captain Townscnd had the assurance tliat the Florida affair had been satisfactorily settled, and that now we could go into any Brazilian port we wished without fear of being molested. At 11 A. M. we were under way; at 2 p. m. we had cleared the mouth of the harbor and were standing northwardly with all sail set, and with a good fair wind we were averaging nine knots per hour. The following two days were occupied by the crew in cleaning and painting the ship, painting boats, and making everything as neat and trim as possible, in order to make a fine dehut at Rio. For some time I had been watching the boatswain's mate, of whom some mention has been made, -and the surgeon's steward, as they were engaged in playing chess, and en- deavoring, in vain, to get some insignt into the game. One morning, on our passage from St Catherine to Rio, A. cyne to me and said that if I had any leisure time, and felt so dis- posed, he would endeavor to initiate me into, the mysteries of chess. Of course I had time, and wished to learn ; so the apparatus was procured 4bd the initiating commenced. That day ^nd the following were taken up by this teaching, and at the end, I had become quite skillful at the game. To me it is quite fascinating, and I promise myself much pleas- ure and profit from its acquisition, as it will serve to while away some of the long and tedious hours of the cruise. This feeling is common to all. Thursday evening, July 6th, we sighted land, which we knew to be some islands off the mouth of the Bay of Rio Janeiro, so we "lay to" the greater portion of that night, as we were afraid that we might run aground should we attempt to proceed in the night time. The crew were quite meny that night over the prospect of going into Rio the next day, and singing and dancing were kept up until a very late hour. Going on deck the next morning, I found that the promise of the previous evening of our having a fine day to go into AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 71 Rio had not been verified, for the rain was pouring in tor- rents. As soon as it .was daylight we started on our way again for Rio, then about twenty -four miles distant, and at 8.30 A. M. we began to " open " the bay. Two or three pretty inlets, with rocky bases, enveloped by thick shrubbery and brush-wood, lie at the entrance of the channel. Among the first points of interest which demanded notice and admiration, were the magnificent cone of the Sugar- Loaf, on our left, and the fortress of Santa-Cruz, with its floating banner, on a gently swelling hill on our right. From these points, on either side, the shores of the bay, lined at the water's edge with the cottages and hamlets of the fishermen, sweep widely around ; while behind, hills, in the richest cul- tivation, sprinkled with farm-houses and villas, and crowned with churches and monasteries, all in purest white, rise abruptly on every side, till two or three miles inland, they terminate in ranges of mountains of the boldest and most varied beauty. . At the distance of about three miles from the entrance, a small castellated island rises from the water, over which a tower, here and there, with a forest of shipping, adjoining, designated the location of the city. A little to the right, a succession of low, green islets, studding the smooth waters of the bay, showed the direction in which it penetrates far into the. interior, till, at a distance of forty or fifty miles, the lofty and fantastic peaks of the Organ mountains closed the view. The Sugar-Loaf is a strikingly unique and imposing ob- ject, a gigantic rock, a thousand feet high, singularly of the form which its name indicates, and inclining slightly over its base southward. It is entirely naked, excepting a little tuft- ing of moss and bushes in some of the crevices indenting its sides, and on its top. Apparently, it is utterly inaccessible on every side ; but it is said that a British othcer succeeded in reaching the top and planting there the flag of his nation. W CHINA AND JAPAN, « ^ ;;»K* >;vYv adds, however, that he paid for his venturesome icvxi ^'ih his lito; whether perishing in the descent, or by . K^ d5U$^*i* ^^ i^n assassin, is not known ; but the latter is ;:w;{5iia miv>i probable. A j>arty of Austrian officers accomplished a similar feat; .i^U HU American, also, is said to have left the stars and >iiijH^s waving from its summit — a report as well founded, i*rv*habl\\ as either of the former ; for our countrymen, in whatovor part of the world they are found, are not, to say ^ho loast, behind any that they meet, when boldness and in- if\*pidity are in requisition. rho distance from the Sugar-Loaf to the city, in a direct U«t\ is about five miles ; but the shores on either side sweep tVv^m the channel into several bays, making the route by them much more circuitous. Botafogo, the largest and deepest of ihoso inlets, first meets the eye. The entrance to it is very narrow, and almost entirely shut out from the sight. Encir- oKhI by wild and lofty mountains, it exhibits, at almost every |H>int of view, the characteristic features of a fine lake. In tho momentary glance as we passed, with the vapors of the morning still hanging upon the mountains, but for a cottage here and there, with the boat of a fisherman along the shore, it might have been thought still a haunt only for the numer- ous sea-fowl seen hovering around its waters, or soaring among the inaccessible crags above. Next to Botafogo, and forming a kind of outer bay to it, comes the widely-curving Praya de Flamingo, or " Beach of the Flamingoes," lined with a range of fine houses. Imme- diately adjoining is the Gloria Hill, a place of great beauty, and forming one of the most conspicuous points in the pano- rama of the whole bay. Upon its brow stands the first pub- lic building attracting particular notice in a})proaching the anchorage — the church ** Nosea Sefiora de Gloria," of our lady of glory. The building is a small octagon, with lofty towers of neat and well-proportioned architecture ; the whole VOTA&E THITHEK. 73 beautifully white, ornamented with pila.slers, cornices, and casemates of brown treeetone. It is delightfully located and OTerbung with trees and shrubhery of splendid growth. Beyond the Gloria is another indentation, over which is seen a long stone causeway, lined with houses on the inner Bide, and above and bejond, a section of a lofty and massive aqtieduct, running from the mountains to the city. Then comee another hill, surmounted by a monrtstery — a gloomy pile, and iu poor repair — imm.ediately beneath which, on a Jow piece of level ground, liea the greater portion of the dty, with its niimerouB steeples and lowers, the most eon- Apicuous being those of the imperial chapel and caihedtel. The imperial residence fronts the water, and, with the pub- lic Bqnare adjoining, is in full view from the anchorage ; while the episcopal palace stands on a hill, some two bund- red feet high, in the center of the city. This is a fine building, and finely located, but of heavy and monkish ar- cbitectnre. Near it, on [he west, is another hill and convent ; and, closely adjoining the imperial navy-yard, from which a small rocky and fortified island runs into the harbor, and completes the outline of the sketch on ihia aide of the bay. With these leading objects, snrrouuded by masses of build- ing for a foregrouDd, backed by verdant hills iu high cultiya- 'dfiD, having cottages and villas embowered in bloom and beauty, scattered over them, — the whole terminated by a 8|dmdid range of mountains, with the shaft of the Corcovado, two thousand feet in height, rising in the center like a pin- nacle against, the sky, — you will have some conception of the magnificence of the scene. At the city, the bay is about three miles wide. The op- porite shore, on the north, is culled Praya Grande. It is leu wild and lofty in its general features, but equally rich in the varied beauty of hill and dell, wood and lawn — of plan- tation in all the Insurianr.e of artificial improvement, and 1 I 74 CHINA AND JAPAN, mountain forest, standing, as for ages, in perennial verdure, undisturbed by the inroads of civilization. There may be scenery in the world that equals this, but there can scarce be any that surpasses it As a whole, it is sublime ; while every distinct section would, in itself, make a picture. Whether viewed in mass or detail, it exceeds in beauty and variety everything that I have as yet seen. Now to generalize a little. Rio Janeiro, the capital of the Brazilian empire, ranks as the largest and most flourishing city of South America. It lies on the western side of the bay, which is some seventy or eighty miles in circumference, forming one of the most spacious and secure receptac;les for shipping in the world. In comparison with all others, trav- elers have pronounced the bay of Rio Janeiro to surpass them all in beauty. It is studded with upwards of one hun- dred islands ; the ships of all nations are constantly seen passing in and out of its channels, and innumerable small boats are ever flitting about. Some thirty-five or forty men- of-war, and several hundred merchant vessels, representing almost every nationality, are now in tlie harbor. The town is tolerably well built, much in the European style, the houses being three or four stories high, though the streets are quite narrow. The place where we anchored was nearly opposite the Emperor's chapel, about a mile from shore. The French, English, and Portuguese flag-ships saluted us as we came in, their bands playing *' Hail Colum- bia." Saturday morning, July 8th, we got under way at an early hour, steamed across the bay to the coal-wharf, and for once, regardless of man-of-war custom, we *' coaled ship" before cleaning up. Commenced work at 9 A. m. and finished at 4 p. M., having taken in about two hundred tons. Two large American clippers were lying alongside the coal-wharf, dis- charging coal. I made the acquaintance of the second mate of one of tliem, who took me on board, shewed me about the AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 75 ship, introduced me to his wife — ^a very pleasant and quite pretty young woman of about twenty-five — kept me to din- ner, and when I was coming away gave me an armful of books and papers, making my visit an exceedingly pleasant and profitable one. At 4.30 p. m. we got under way again, and steamed back to our old anchorage, washing down and cleaning the ship while on our way there. That same even- ing we saluted the Brazilian flag with twenty-one guns, thus forever healing the breach made by the Wachuseti in taking the Florida out of Bahia, upwards of a year ago. Sunday was stormy, or we doubtless would have been thronged with visitors ; as it was, but few came. This mom - ing it cleared off, and it has been a lovely day. The crew have been hard at work all day in painting, scraping spars, setting up rigging, tarring down, and polishing up generally. They have sufficient employment of this description to keep them busy all this week. I have not the least idea how long we shall remain here, but everything now betokens a long stay. I hope that this may be ; for I hardly think that we shall find another place where there is so much to excite and interest, or that we shall like as well. 76 CHINA A2n> JAPAN, LETTER VIII. U. S. S. TVachusett, Rio Janeiro, September 19, 1865. My Deab R. : } The prospect of a long stay io Rio has been verified, and the anticipated pleasure has been more than realized by nearly all. Yes, our stay in Rio has been a very interesting and exciting one. Tuesday, July 11th, all the men-of-war in the harbor " dressed ship," " manned yards," and fired a salute of twenty- one guns, for the Emperor of Brazil who passed down the harbor on a Portuguese corvette. He was starting for Para- guay to visit his forces there, now engaged in war with the Paraguayans. It was a splendid sight, thus to see upwards of fifty men-of-war all dressed out, with their yards manned> and to hear the salutes thundered forth. Thursday we ** dressed ship," with the Brazilian flag at the main, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honor of the birth of a princess. Upon more than one-half of the days that we have been lying in this harbor we have " dressed ship," and fired salutes for some nation's holidays. Every nation, except the United States, has had one or more. In one week the Brazilians and the Portuguese had each two holidays, and it does seem as if the^e two powers had as many as all others here represented. The most of us, how- ever, would not object to having every day a holiday ; for they ever bring some excitement, thus enlivening a long stay For a long time the Wachusett was the only representa- tive of the United States in the harbor. During the early ^ August, the Mohongo came into port, and remained AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 77 long enough to go into the dry-dock and have her bottom cleaned. She then continued on her way around the Horn to join the North Pacific squadron. About two weeks later the Susquehana, flag-ship of the South Atlantic squadron and bearing the flag of Rear Admiral Gordon, arrived at Rio Janeiro. All were rejoiced at her presence ; for, since her arrival, it has seemed as if we had held a higher position with the other nations here represented, all of which have one or more large vessels. Then, too, among the salutes fired at almost every hour of the day, the stars and stripes have sometimes been seen at the foremast-head. Since that time the squadron has received further addition in the shape of two or three gunboats, so that the officers and crews have had much pleasure in their intercourse with each other and in " ship visiting." It is customary when two or more vessels of the same nationality are lying in port together, to allow a number of the crews to visit each other Sunday afternoons. All avail themselves of this privilege, those of the same department or rank visiting each other as old friends, although they may be from different States, and have never met before. For a long time after our arrival, the Wachusett was daily thronged with visitors, all of them anxious to see the vessel that seized the Florida. Being made the " Lion of the har- bor "was somewhat different treatment from what we ex- pected ; but it really seemed as if they couldn't see us enough or show us enough respect and courtesy. I am sure that we are all better satisfied that it was so than that they should have harbored enmity for what is now past. Personally, however, I cannot say that I greatly admire this lionizing, for, nearly every day we are paraded in full uniform, on the quarter- deck to receive some distinguished visitor. Soon after we came into port, the crew received their first allowance of money, and had " general liberty" given. As there was not a sufficient amount of silver in the ship, a large /S OMINA AND .lAPAN, number of the cfpw received their aUowance of five c in ten milrea bills — a mJlrca being eqnal io vaitie to a d half dollar. In llie afternoon when the dingy was alioi-e, many of those that had received bills sent them by the coxswain to have them changed into specie. the dingey returned late in the evening, the coxswmn was i^ sing. The boat's crew said that he left them aa soon as l| boat touelied the shore and they had not seen him sti nor has any subsequent aearch revealed anything r his whereabouts. He hiid about two hundred dollars, f has doubtless returned to the States. The following morning onr watch went ashore o; liberty." When the boat returned the next day with { liberty men, three of the marines were al^ent. TowiH| evening word was brought off from shore, that o a man named Lee, had been fonnd dead in the street ti morning, and that the remaining two were i evening they came off, bringing the following particulars, i After reaching shore the day previous, they strolled a ihe city for a time, making a iew purchases, and ( prelly freely. About dark ihey went into a hotel at theu part of the oily kept by an Irish-American with whom d| of them was acquainted. There they remained about t hours, rolling len-pins and drinking until snp' As there was to be a dance at the hotel that evening, « they could have lodgings, they concluded to i over night. In the course of the evening all of them dra very freely, but Lee was the most intoxicated of the tl About eleven o'clock he retired; but, half an hour li came out of big room, and said that he was going out fi walk. Before he came back the others retired, and it it definitely known whether he returned or not. They were awakened the next morning by a policei who broke into their room, told them that their comrade li been found dead in the streets, and wanted to know if tl AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 79 knew anything about it They told him about his going out the evening previous, but supposed that he had returned. The policeman then took them to the dead house to identify the body of their comrade, and after that to a magistrate; who having heard what they had to say concerning the affair, released them. The only mark to be seen on Lee's body, was a small purplish spot over his left temple, which bore evi- dence of his having received a blow there. By some it is thought that he was murdered by some of the old crew of the Florida, many of whom were at the hotel that evening, and with whom Lee had some angry words. Othei*s accuse the landlord of committing the mur- der, bat I can't see for what reason he should do it. Not that I think he would hesitate, if there was a sufficient in- ducement for so doing, but he had no trouble with Lee, and he certainly could not have done it for money, as Lee at the time of his death had not more than two or three milreas. The sleeping apartments of the American house are on the second floor, opening upon a balcony, which overlooks the street Now by some it is thought that he returned after going out, and wishing to go out the second time, instead of going down stairs, walked over the balustrade, which is very low, and was killed by the fall. The latter I think is the most plausible explanation ; more so, after seeing the scene of the affair. The body was found but a short distance from where he would have fallen. He might not have been in- staAtly killed, but lived long enough to get that distance. Early the next morning, Monday, Captain Townsend sent his clerk ashore to make preparations for the funeral. About noon he returned with the coffin, and a few minutes later the body was brought on board. At 2.30 p. m. all hands were called to bury the dead, and the funeral service of the Epis- copal church was read by the Captain. The body was then taken ashore for burial, accompani by several of the officers and crew, and a firing party 80 CHINA AND JAPAN, eight marines. The cemetery to which we conveyed the re- mains lies at the western extremity of the city, and is the most beautiful one that I ever saw. It is very large, and very tastefully laid out in lovely walks and drives ; the roads and paths on either hand shaded by splendid trees, or bor- dered with beds of the most beautiful flowers of almost every variety. On the whole it appears more like some beautiful garden, than the restirig-place of the dead. For this I give the Brazilians credit ; thus, leaving grim-visaged death shorn of some of his terrors, so that one could almost b^ content to die, if one could only rest in such a lovely spot ad this. In the corner set apart for the Americans, under the shadow of a beautiful weeping willow, we laid him down. At the grave the usual services were read by the surgeon, and, when all was over, we fired three volleys over his grave, and returned to the ship. Robert Lee was an Irishman by birth, but had lived in the Uniteil States ever since he was a small boy, for the most |n\rt in the neighborhood of Boston, and in thonght, won!, and external appearance was a thorough American. Natumlly of a quiet, retiring, kind-hearted disposition, he was without an enemy in the ship. He served all throogfa the war in the army of the Potomac, It seems hard that, alter escaping all the dangers there, he should die such a death far away from home and friends, in a foreign land. He leaves a motherless liule girl about twelve years oi age, with some friends in Roxburv, Oh ! I oanie near tbrgetting to mention - the wedding of Mary and John,'* which was celebrated on board the Wa- chuseu, Sauirvlay evening:, July :?2d, the mate and steward- esc> of the Au\ertv*a:i steamer A , Nei::^ ihe happy coaple. Tho A i> obuircen:\l by ihe Br:!Ls:Iui:i government, and by ii us<*d in transporting txwpi^ ;juad supplies to their forces in Pan^ruav, Id the forenoon of tliat day the mate came on board and eked the Captain if be could and would marry him. He i that the Bleamer waa to leave in three daya, and that he idsbed to get married before she started. By the Brazilian iws, the marriage would be illegal, unless the bans were lablished for three weeks previous. Of course Ca|ita.in fownsend could and would tie the knot for them, aad with isuGual gonerons accommodating disposition, and a desire D see everytliing done with as much eclat as possible, he set da cook at work to prepare refreshments, sent his steward ishore for fruits, flowers, and other decorations, end had the E&bina and quarter-deck finely und tastefully decorated. The couple came aboard about 8 p. m,, but the ceremony was de- 1ay(^ about an hour in waiting for the captain of the steamer. The hride was either very timid or opposed to the weddiug, fin ibe kept her face buried in her handkerchief nearly the ■iole tjme, and appeared as if she were crying bitterly. She 'Miichly attired, but in a manner entirely devoid of good As far as I was able to judge by an occasional glimpse rfbatfacCi I considered her a very pliun, unattractive woman. hia, a tall, hroad-shooldered, good lookiug young nuu, with ifemk, open, honest expresBion, tried every means within '>» power to soothe her, hut without success. As soon as everything was in readiness for the ceremony, "Hands were called aft on the quarter-deck to witness the iuge ceremony. Mary and John took their place, and tW the Captain proceeded (o marry them, Mary sloll kept I'f &W buried in her handkerchieti only uncovering it to •Mwer in a low tremulous voice the quesliooB asked her. TiiB captain of the sieamer gave the bride away, John slipped S ring on her finger, and the twain became one flesh. After the ceremony ihey repaired to the upper cabin, and fanook of the reireshmenta there prepared, and whei-e all tfrn tifflcere were presented to them. AJler ihey had taken l&eir departure] the captain summoned a large number of ua . 82 CHINA AND JAPAN, into the cabin where we drank to the health of the bride and groom in a glass of the Captain's wine. Three days later the A — , started for Paraguay, and two smiling faces waved their handkerchiefs to us in passing. Doubtless you begin to think that I have been a long time in Rio without getting ashore. My first cruise on shore was in company with a friend who has been in Rio many times before, and was almost as well acquainted with all the places of interest, as with those of his native city. We landed at a narrow quay in the middle of Palace Square, one of the busiest quarters of Rio. This square is quite neat and pretty for a Portuguese city, although without any attractive ornament, and built without order or taste. After passing the prison -like granite building near the center, dignified by the name of palace, we entered Rua Direita at its rear, passed under an arch which connects the palace to a range of chambers on the opposite side of the street, and stopped before the Royal Chapel near by. This is very plain and simple without, but very rich within, as we found upon entering. The most attractive thing to be seen there, is the painting of the Crucifixion, which hangs against the wall op- posite the entrance, and which is so well executed, that one needs to lay his hand upon the canvass before he fully con- vinces himself that it is not a living reality. So perfect is it, that one feels sure that he beholds the blood trickling down from the spear-thrust in His side and the prints of the nails in His hands and feet. On His countenance one distinctly sees the expression of pain together with that seraphic smile, which could only belong to one very near to Heaven and God. It seems incredible that the skill of man could exe- cute anything so perfect as this. The roof or ceiling of the Chapel is high and vaulted, and upon it is the finest fresco painting that I ever saw. There are represented " the an- gels of God ascending and descending upon the Son of man/* From the Rua Dif eita we turned up into Rua do Ouvredor, AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 83 a narrow street, filthy and badly paved, but the Broadway of Rio. This street is lined on either hand by attractive shops of fancy goods, colored silks and cloths, and flowers and feathers. Among the most attractive curiosities to us were the large number of strange and brilliantly colored bugs and insects, either seen in large collections in suitable frames, or tastefully set in some article of jewelry. The greater num- ber of the last mentioned we saw on Rua do Ourives, or the jewelers' street, which crosses the middle of Rua do Ouvridor. This street is upwards of two-thirds of a mile in length, and is occupied througjhout by jewelers and silver-smiths. The head of Rua do Ouvridor opens into Don Pedro Square, near a noted Cafe. We were somewhat faint when ~we reached the head of this street, so we entered the Cafe «nd called for coffee and cakes, throwing down the usual ;j)rice, three cents. The Portuguese and their descendants, as '^ell as the Spaniards, are very fond of this beverage, as is ^hown by the almost numberless little saloons or cafes which re found on almost every corner of the streets of their cities .nd towns, and these always filled with customers. The uaotity of the coffee obtained is small, but the strength of large cupful is condensed into that of a small one. I re- member one saloon in particular where the cups in which ley brought us the coffee, would not hold more than tw^o ible spoonfuls, and were emptied at a single draught. The Jiisation then experienced has been aptly compared to "that a slight electric shock." But to return to the Cafe, and le coffee and cakes that were soon brought. There we re- tained upwards of an hour a Vespagnole, eating cakes, sip- ping our coffee, and listening to the songs of a quartette of ^ttle boys and girls, who accompanied their songs with the sound of the flute, violin, harp, and guitar. The sweetness ^^ their childish voices, as they sang for us the Star Span- . glfed Banner, 1 had never heard equaled, and it tempted me ......... 84 CHINA AND JAPAN, The French use brandy as an addition to their coffee, and their example is followed to some extent by the Brazilians. Whenever coffee is called for, in many saloons, a decanter filled with brandy and finely graded is placed upon the table ; then, when the bill is called for, the bottle is examined and one charged according to the amount used. I tried the ex- periment, but don't think that brandy is any improvement to coffee. After leaving the caf<^ the attractions of Rua do Ouvridor, induced us to turn our steps thitherward again. A promi- nent reason, that this street has been the principal rendezvous during our stay, for our jolly tars, even of the finest cloth, is that there they would meet, either in the shops or on the street, the most attractive specimens of womankind to be found in Rio. The man spake from experience who said that, "it is the sailor alone, after being absent as he often is, for weeks and months from the presence of endearing woman, who can fully appreciate her cheering attractions. To him woman is a new creature, the fairest object he can meet with in a voyage ; and, when contrasted in his mind with his gross companions of the ruder sex with whom he has weath- ered the seas, he is enraptured, and the first fair one, in what- ever garb, that meets his eye, appears to him like a perfect houri, and he eagerly gazes at her and at all of her sex, with an open soul of admiration swimming in his eyes." The females, those that are of Spanish or Portuguese des- cent, are generally of a pale complexion, but have a certain delicacy of feature which renders them very pleasing objects ; and the affability of their manners heightens the agreeable- ness of their personal attractions. The proverbial Portu- guese jealousy still exists among the many in Rio, not only to mar, if not to deaden their own social pleasures, but also to prevent a stranger from forming any extended acquaintance. During our stay here, however, I have formed many pleasant acquaintances among both sexes, and the moments passed in leir Boclely will ever be remembered as some of tlie pleas- niest of my life. A large proportion of the inliaWtanta of EJo are miserable ill^naked blcuiks and mulattoes. Although the grenter num- ir of these are slaves, if at any time they become free, they e from that time, nearly, if not quite the whiteman's equal. tey may vote, hold slaves, hold civil or mililory otlices, or Pen become members in the House of Assembly. The de- 2e of familiarity existing between the whiles and hlacks U ^gusting to a newly arried American. It is no unuommoa ght to behold a refined, intelligent looking white lady prom- lading the streets, arm in arm with a coarse looking, ixiarso [>|ieariag negro. In the evening we went to the French theatre. This dif- )rs fVom any previously seen by me as regards the internal irangements, and closely resembles a German bier garden. it abort intervals about the parquet, dress circle, and galleries, fblea were placed and chairs set around them. We went and seated ourselves at one of these tables, and hand-bills jre immediaiely brought us by pretty waiter girls. On e side of the bills was the programme of the eveninga' trfonnaDOe, and on the other a list of Ihjitoi's, cigars, fruits, fee, and cakes, with prices of the several arlicles aitai-hed. e called for coffee, cakea, and cigars, and there we sat in le Brazilian slylo, sipping our coffee, smoking, and convers- g between the acts, calling for a fresh supply of articles rhen required. The piece enacted waa an amusing comedy, and although telligible to no one of the party hut myself, yet we had any a hearty laugh over what I could understand, and nnalale to Ihcm. Several son^ were sung wilh piano ac- WiDpttniment, and there was a gi'cat deal of dancing, separale- fmd intermixed with the piay, that all could underslaiiJ and ^iHrauate. The Brazilians appear to he very foud of bailet 86 CHINA AND JAPAN, dancing, judging by the manner in which every such dance was encored. Another day when we were on shore, we decided to pay a visit to Praya Grande, which is opposite to the city, across the elliptic bay, and about three miles distant. Having pro- cured tickets at the office near the landing, we stepped aboard the ferry-boat and after a pleasant ride of fifteen minutes, we were brought to the opposite side. Arriving there, we found Praya Grande to fully answer our expectations in re- gard to elegance of mansions and beauty of surroundings ; a happy commingling of city and country. There were large palatial mansions, situated in large, beautiful gardens, fairly embowered with trees ; wide streets, smooth and beautifully shaded, and everything, in short, as lovely and charming as one could wish. One garden above all others attracted our attention^ not only on account of its size and beauty, but also because we there saw growing many home plants and flowers. From the gardener, who was standing near the gate, we obtained permission to take a walk about the grounds. While com- menting upon a bed of strawberries, many of which were then ripe, a pleasant, middle aged lady came along and asked us if we did not belong to the American man-of-war in the harbor. We replied that we did. She told us that both her husband and herself were from Connecticut, and many of her friends were now resident there. They left the states about ten years ago and had not returned since ; but they hoped to go there again ere long. She, seeing the longing looks that we were casting toward the strawberry-bed, asked us if we would like to have some strawberries. We replying that we would very much indeed, she said that if we would wait a few min- utes she would have some prepared for us. In the meantime she invited us to seats in a charming little summer-house, near by, and then entered into conversation with me, I hav- ing told her that I too was from Connecticut. In about half AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 87 an hour, a servant came, bearing a dish of strawberries smothered in cream, accompanied by another bearing short- cakes and a pitcher of milk. We then had such a feast as we had not tasted for many a day, and one which we enjoyed as only those can that have been similarly situated. About five o'clock we told her that we must return. She picked, arranged, and presented each of us a beautiful bouquet of flow- ers, and invited us to make her another visit should we re- main long enough in Rio Janeiro to come ashore again. She said that it was so seldom she ever saw one from Con- necticut, or from the United States even, that she prized such visits very highly, ever considering them as a great favor to herself. We told her that we had not enjoyed ourselves so much since we left home, and should by no means deny our- selves the great pleasure of another visit to her, if practica- ble, especially when we had every reason to believe that our visit would be received with pleasure. A visit to the Navy yard reveals no great wonder or at- traction, with the exception of the dry dock, which is spoken of as being the finest in the \^orld. It is about three hun- dred and twenty feet long, and seventy-five feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. On the stocks and nearly ready for launch- ing, when I visited the yard a iponth ago, were two iron clads, the first attempts of the Brazilians .at establishing an iron clad navy. About a week ago one of them was completed and started for the seat of war in Paraguay. The Brazil- ians have great hopes of these iron clads, but they appear to me to be weak opponents for our monitors. Their finish- ing shops for shot and shell were much better conducted than I expected to find them; but then we, with ideas that there we no people in the world equal to the Americans, would attribute this circumstance to the fact that the superinten- dents of the shops are Americans. hi traversing any of the more fashionable streets of Rio, one cannot fail to notice the great number of blinds that are 88 CHINA AND JAPAN, left partially open, and mirrors placed upon the inside of them. For a long time I was puzzled to know for what purpose this was done, and at last, I requested a friend to tell me. He said that the mirrors were so placed that the occupants of the rooms could perceive whoever was passing in the streets, or what was being done there. If one wanders from the busi- ness part, to the rear of the city, he will find many pleasant squares containing public fountains, and will see the bumble dwelling of the lowly side by side with the palatial mansion of the noble and wealthy. The former are seldom more than one story high, and the windows are screened by lattice blinds which swing at the top. Upon pleasant evenings, these blinds will be seen opened a little way, and in the cov- erts, bashful lovers who meet there to whisper their soft en- dearments. This is said to be the custom for all their court- ships, a custom derived from the mother country. The man- sions of the noble and wealthy are usually surrounded by high, strong walls, the entrances to which are secured by mas- sive double doors. The Portuguese jealousy of females may there be observed in the closed blinds and iron bars for the windows. On another excursion to the city, we found all the churches, stores, and houses decorated* It was a religious holiday. All were attired in their best garments, and all places of busi- ness were closed. Before the principal churches in the eve- ning, there was a very fine display of fireworks, prominent in which were rockets and fire-balloons. The people appear to attach supernatural power to these fireworks, as aiding in the banishment of evil spirits, and there is always a grand dis^play on every church holiday, or celebration of high mass. Once while Iving here we filled our tanks with shore water. The consequence was that several of the crew were taken sick and some of them have not vet recovered from the ef- feots of the change of water. It is a well known fact that much sickness and many deaths are occasioned by the change AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 89 of water in going from one country to another. Probably there is no water in the world as pure or as healthy as good condensed water. Not only this, but when a vessel con- denses all the water used by her crew, it obviates all the sick- ness occasioned by the change in going from one country to another. After we had been at Rio upwards of two months, it was one morning called to mind that we had not " moored ship,'* and that it would be an excellent idea to do so. This is done by dropping the anchors some distance apart and then attach- ing both of the cables to a large swivel, so that when the ship swings around with the tide, the chains do not become twisted. The principal object in mooring ship, is that she may take np less room in swinging, than when lying with a single anchor down. It is usually considered a very short and simple performance, but whether we had no superintend- ent, or whether we had too many, I can't say, I only know, tbat we made a long tedious job of it, using up the greater portion of the day. For a visit to Botafogo a number of us set out a few days ago on foot. We arrived there after an hour's delightful vaik, having stopped frequently to examine and admire thennusual beauties of a residence and its surroundings. It was a charming sunny morning, and the undulating Mnooth road, now skirting the water side, and thence winding ^und the base of a range of hills, was hemmed in by the hedges of gardens, or lofty walls of masonry, above which hong the rich fruits of palmate and other tropical trees with flowers of the jessamine and honeysuckle, scenting the air. ^ Botafogo many of the wealthy business men of Rio have weir residences, and some of them are almost perfect para- ges, with their beautiful and extensive grounds attached. A short distance from the principal quarter of Botafogo, uie Botanic Garden is located. This comprises from seventy- five to one hundred acres plotted off into groves and flower- 5» 90 CHINA AND JAPAN, beds, artificial mounds, and broad avenues meeting at a pretty fountain near the center. In the grove were the dark olive, the crotons, the crescentia, which bears a great calabash ; the carambola, which bears an excellent arid fruit, the cinnamon, red pepper, and clove trees. The avenues are shaded by the dense foliage of the mango tree ; the bamboo and plantain ; and the coffee, orange, and other trees peculiar or indigenous to South America. But in the variety of flowers, or in their beauty and rarity, the garden that we visited at Porto Praya would fully equal, if not surpass this place. The scenery all around is remarkably picturesque and beautiful, and the effect is heightened by the shaft of the Coocovado which rises im- mediately behind the town of Botafogo. There has been so much else to write about, of apparently more interest, that I have entirely neglected to speak of the repairs which were entered upon soon after our arrival here, and have been the occasion of our long stay. Upon an ex- amination of the engine, a crack some seven or eight inches in length was discovered in one of the crank-pins. For a month the engineers were engaged in putting a band around it, and making some other necessary repairs. We have haA^ a bridge put up just abaft the smoke stack, and resting oni. the bulwarks. This I think is a decided improvement. Another improvement was the extension of the poop abo«.t five feet, so as to cover the wheel, and underneath having «• little room on each side ; one for the armory, and the other for the signal locker. This also makes a good shelter for tl^e orderly on watch, and then gives us more room to work th® ed about three weeks ago, and the carp^'*' en busy in repairing the decks, getting n^^ lose destroyed or injured by the gale, ^^^ i^ number of desertions since we ba^^ « thirty in all, and but two or tbr^^ "^tared. With a few excep- AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 91 tions, those that have deserted were excellent seamen, among the best that we had in the ship. These we find make quite a lessening in our effective force. To-morrow we leave here for Cape Town, so that to-night we will look upon the lighting up of the convents on the hills, and of the churches on the oblong plain beneath, of rockets, and other signs of a religious holiday ; hear the sweet sounds from the bands of the English, French, and Portuguese frig- ates near us, and hear the many other evening attractions and pleasures of our stay at Rio, for the last time in many months or years. 92 CHINA AND JAPAN, LETTER X, IT. S. S. Wachusett, Simons' Bay, South Africa,) October 2, 1865. J My Dear R. : " All hands unmoor ! unmoor ! Hark to the hoarse, but welcome sound, Startling the seaman's sweetest slumbers, The groaning capstan's turning round, The cheerful fife's enlivening numbers ; And lingering idlers join the brawl, And merry ship-boys swell the call, All hands unmoor ! unmoor !" Nearly all had become wearied with our long stay at Rio, so that when the orders were given to get under way Sep- tember 20th, all sprang to the call with alacrity, and cheer- fully assisted in all the many necessary preparations; Early in the morning two of our number bade us " good bye," and were transferred to the Susquehanna, there to await transpor- tation to the States, their period of enlistment having expired. It was nearly 5 p. m. when the shrill whistles and gruff voices of the boatswain and his three mates piped " all hands up anchor." Up from below, through every hatch-way, like trains of ants, to their several stations came the interminable throng, — all longing to be at sea once more. The shrill whistle piped again on deck, and from stem to stern the word was passed, — the fifes and viojin struck up a well-time^ quickstep — and traij[jp, tramp, stepped the centi- peded train over the deck. In a moraejat the helm was up, around went the propeller, and the ship moved slowly and gracefully down the Bay from her anchorage, dipping hev AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 93 colors in return to those of the vessels she passed, and to the playing of Hail Columbia by their bands. As soon as we had steamed out of port, so that we could shape our course, the fires were put out, the clanking of the engine ceased, and sail was made on the ship. Our month's run from Rio Janeiro to the Cape was char- acterized by strong, favorable winds, no very severe storms Dor rough seas, and everything considered, it was as speedy and pleasant a run as we could reasonably expect. The only damages done to the ship was the springing of one top-mast and carrying away the jib-boom. The man that we received in exchange for the two we trans- ferred to the Susquehana, falls far short of filling the place of one of them. He is a short, thick-set, thick-headed, ill-featured Dutchman, and decidedly the meanest man in the "Guard." As soon as he came on board he was made acting-corporal, and the first night he commenced operations by reporting three or four of the guard for some trifling misdemeanor. Report- ing one of our own number is never done unless absolutely necessary. So when he commenced in reporting every one for unnoticeable misdemeanors, discord and enmity were soon created in the "Guard." Our number is small in comparison with the rest of the ship's company, and any division is to be feared and avoided as much as possible. It seems strange that we should have allowed such an one to have brought discord into the " Guard." And yet he did bring it. An- other example of the maxim — " Great results ofttimes spring from trifling causes." One night he reported a man for sleeping on post, and about half an hour later he himself was found asleep on watch. So some of the crew fastened a hal- yard to his feet, and then from the other side of the deck, they triced him up by the heels, and left him hanging about six feet from the deck. He was half an hour in releasing himself from this predicament, and was fortunate in not being discovered by the officers. \ 94 CHINA AND JAPAN, As captain's orderly I had enjoyed all the privileges that I wished, and was so well satisfied with my duties that I was not pleased with the promotion to corporal, and duty in the gangway assigned me. But there was no use in remonstrat- ing, so I accepted of the change with the best possible grace. To be sure I have more leisure, and there are some other ad- vantages gained, but still, in my estimation, the cons more than outnumber the pros. On this passage my wardrobe was found, upon examination, to be in such a condition as to compel me to relinquish all other duties and pleasures, and to devote several days to mending and repairing. At first it was slow and awkward work, but, by patience, and spurred on by necessity, I soon became quite expert with the needle. I can safely say now, that I do not prick my fingers more than once a minute, on an average, and quite often am not compelled to do my work over the second time. What prizes we will all be in the matrimonial market when we return home — able to cook, wash, sew, and do many other things to lighten the labors of all the future Mrs. ! — but I will not anticipate. Yes, neces- sity has compelled me to learn many things which I will find useful and advantageous in after life. How often have I seen the time, when, if I had known how to sew, some sorrow or mortification would have been spared me ! One personage we have on board which I think I have not yet introduced to you ; that is a large, dog-faced monkey, which we purchased at St. Catherine. He is decidedly the most knowing, and most comical monkey that I ever saw, and scarcely a day passes but that he is the occasion of much mirth to the crew. The sailors have taught him so that he will sit up and smoke a pipe, dance, and perform an immense number of interesting feats and tricks. Whenever the crew are all aft on the quarter deck, at muster, then Jocko is in his glory. He will go down on the berth deck, and woe be to the ditty-box that is left unfastened, or anything that he AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 95 can jnjure left within his reach, for he will surely seize upon it. He tried his hand at bread-making for us several times, (a pan of flour having been left by the cook where he could get at it,) to the ruin of the flour and the injury of whatever might be lying near. In Rio we procured some little Guinea-pigs which Jocko evidently thought were going to supplant him in the affections of the crew. Instead of killing or injuring them, which he easily could have done, he used to carry them up to the pendant-tackle block, when he would leave them and then descend to the deck and watch for them to fall. Fortunately all were rescued, with one exception, before his intentions were fully carried out. At other times poor Jocko has been the medium of com- municating the disHke which the crew had for certain officers. On this passage a great deal of merriment and no small ex- citement was created, by dressing him up in a uniform re- sembling S.'s, and then sending him aft to where he was standing in the midst of a group of other officers. They greeted his advent by a roar of laughter, while S. was fairly purple with rage. Immediately he rushed into the cabin and reported the circumstance to the Captain, saying that it was the greatest insult he ever had in his life, comparing htm to a monkey ! The Captain ordered Mr. Philip to find oat who the perpetrators were, but all his investigations were without success. No one knew anything about it. So the afiair was dismissed with orders that the uniform should be altered, and that nothing of this kind should occur again. It "will be a long time, however, before the affair will be hushed up, and many will yet be the hearty laugh had about " S and Jocko." For the past two or three months, the sergeant has been at work upon a duo of American citizens of African descent, training, or attempting to train them for the " ship's drum- mer and fifer." By dint of explaining, coaxing, promising. 96 CHINA AND JAPAN, threatening, together with sundry raps with the drumsticks, "A spur To prick the sides of his intent," he at length forced so much mrisic through their unusually thick skulls, that he pronounced them far enough advanced to beat to quarters. Accordingly three or four evenings ago they were brought up to make their dehiU. They played so near the appropriate air that about one out of every ten knew what they meant, and went to their quarters, but the rest stood and looked at them in blank amazement, wonder- ing what in the world they were attempting to do, or what was meant. Finally a resort to the boatswain's whistle was necessary, before all came to their quarters. After retreat was beaten, Mr. Philips called all hands aft on the quarter- deck to muster, and told them that whenever they should hear that noisQ again we might know that it was for quarters. Friday, October 20, 18 Go, will ever remain a white day in my geographical calendar, for it was then that I, for the first time, rested my eyes upon that black continent "whose people have given the world more political and religious trouble than their physical strength has ever given it aid." The truth of this remark is painfully evident in the experi- ences of our 6wn country. It was then also a white day beyond this geographical wonder, in that after thirty days of sea rolling, and ship dietetics, we were to have the quiet re- pose of port, to taste shore fruits, and once again to place foot on good solid mother earth. When I went on deck this morning, there were the great rocky buttresses, and ragged mountains of South Africa, jut- ting away out into the sea, which rolled in upon them from the South Pole, or, at least, the Antarctic continent. Table Mountain, and all the individualized and named peaks of this renowned Cape were in si^rht as we ran along the shores of '' Good Hope," rounded its promontory and entered the smooth green waters of Simon's Bay. There are a few neat looking English houses clustered on the beach, at the foot of the AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 97 gray, naked mountain which towered behind them. About noon we cast our anchor in front of Simon's Town, a pretty, quiet, little place of about one thousand inhabitants. The anchor down, then came all the bustle and prepara- tion of an arrival in port. In full uniform, with everything bright and shining, we were ordered to hold ourselves in readiness to be paraded at a moment's notice to receive any distinguished visitor that might come on board. The boats were lowered and Mr. Grove despatched to wait upon the authorities and arrange about the salutes. Various boats were hurrying off to us. One was that of the health officer and harbor-master, before whose visit we must not communi- cate with the shore ; another, with the United States flag flying, brought the American Consul ; a third, with a pen- non in the bow and an English ensign in the stern, brought US a Lieutenant from the English senior officer's ship — the Valorous. The salutes over, the string of small boats, which had been lying astisrn to be out of the way of the guns, now pull up to the gangway, and the occupants, each striving to get up before his neighbor, climb up the ship's side, and step on board. There are provision dealers, grocers, tailors, bum- boatmen, washerwomen, all zealous to show their cards and recommendations from previous ships and secure the patron- age of the various messes. To the ship's company the bum- boatman is the most useful of these merchants. He may be all in one. His boat is their corner grocery store. At meal hours he comes alongside the ship with his fresh fruits, fresh bread, cooked fish and meats, and a tempting variety of arti- cles, peculiar to the port in which the ship is lying. He is a convenience, also, for communicating with the shore, making purchases, bringing off small packages and such like things. All avail themselves of his services, preferring them to the ifs and ands, the mighty concession which so often attends the getting ashore, and nine chances out of ten not getting ashore 98 CHINA AND JAPAN, when the article is most required. Of course, a man in such close association with the people of the ship, must have a certain amount of reputable character, or else he may do much mischief by smuggHng liquor, and other important ar- ticles on board. The choosing of a bumboatman, Mr. Philip has ever left to the sergeant and master-at-arms. On this occasion a tall, slender, neatly- dressed Malay with a red handkerchief around his head won their favor. Simon's Bay owes its existence as a place of note to the fact that it is sheltered from those fierce south-east winds which roll the Atlantic in before Table Bay and Cape Town, where, from May to September it is very dangerous for ves- sels. It is the site of the government dockyard and the place for the anchorage of the government shipping. Near the entrance of the harbor is a small island on which stands a lighthouse. How long we will remain here I can't say, but Dame Rumor hath it, that in a few days we are to go around to Cape Town. But she is a fickle jade, and not always to be relied upon. AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 99 LETTEE XI, U. S. S. Wachusett, Cape Town, \ South Africa, November 22, 1865. Mr Dear E. : Dame Rumor was right. We remained but a few days at Simpn's Bay and then came around to Cape Town. We had one pleasant occupation while we were lying at Simon's Bay, and that was, fishing. A line over the side with a bit of pork attached for bait, and an abundance of mackerel, salmon, and two or three other varieties of fish would reward the fisherman. While on watch in the even- ing, I used to catch fish enough for breakfast for our mess* At the same time with mine, there would be lines out all the way from the forecastle to the poop, and nought was heard bat the exultant cry of some fortunate fisherman, the thump of the fish as it was detached from the hook and cast on deck, and the flapping of it as it lay there. Upon our first arrival the harbor-master placed in the Surgeon's hands the follow- ing printed paper : NOTICE. ** There is a fish in Simon's Bay, commonly called ' Toad Fish.' It is about six inches long, back dark, with deep black, stripes ; belly, white with faint yellow patches. It Bwims near the surface, and is a constant attendant upon the lines employed in fishing. When taken from the water it puffs out considerably. Should any portion of this fish bo eaten, death ensues in a few minutes." From curiosity to see the fish we all tried to catch one and at last were successful. We found it to exactly answer to the description given. 100 CHINA AND JAPAN, We remained at Simon's Bay long enough to make som repairs on the top-mast and take in coal, and on Friday, Oc tober 27th, we came around to Cape Town. The sailin distance is about forty miles, and we steamed it in a littl more than three hours, beating the Valorous' time by abou half an hour. "We anchored about a mile from the shore. Cape Town, the capital of Southern Africa, and the mos important European settlement on the continent, is situate near the isthmus of a peninsula, formed by Simon's Bay oi the east, and Table Bay on the west, on which last the cit; itself is built. Immediately behind, rises precipitously Tabl Mountain, 3,582 feet high, above the level of the sea, an< consisting chiefly of steep cliffs of naked schist and granite The Devil's Hill, 3,315, and Lion's Head, 2,160 feet higl rise on each side. The triple summit forms a very conspicu ous object from the sea, over which these spots command i very striking prospect. Cape Town being the only good place of refreshment fo vessels between Europe and America on one side, and India China, Japan, and Australia on the other, it must ever re main a place of great commercial importance. The countrj itself affords for exportation, wines, hides, skins, and a greai variety of minor articles. The population is estimated al 35,000. It was settled by the Dutch in 1650, and among the European residents here, the Dutch element greatly pre- dominates. In the war between England and Holland, ii 1795, Cape Town was taken by the English, but at the tiro^ of the peace, it was restored. Upon the renewal of hostiV ties, it was recaptured in 1806, and since that time it bi been retained by the English. Table Bay affords accommodations for a great amount shipping, but from the month of May until September* affords a very insecure anchorage, being exposed to the fier southeast winds which prevail at that season of the ye^ During the ^^gale which prevailed last May, it is estima-t* 101 Ihttt seventy ships ntiil smaller craft were beached, and up- wards of fifty Vivei lost. It was the worst gale ihat h«8 -vU- iled Table Bay for many years. Tjiey are at present engaged ia constrocling a breakwater which shall protect the anchor- age ^m those long, heavy swells which make ihe anchorage ^daagcroua during the prevalence of those gales from ihe )Oatl)eiisL At this season of the year the harbor h consid^cd I, only on rare occasions some little anooyance is cHii>ied ^ tbf sea being so rough, that boats and men on shore are mpelled to remain there several days before they can re- ra to their ships. One time when ilie Captain and a large ir of the crew were ashore, our hiimboatman — pointing a Table Mountain — said " The Minzenbnrg has its dap on, e will have a storm hefore morning iroin the soutlieasL'' i BO we did. We dropped another anchor, and our com- vith the shore for several days was interrupted, difficult, and diingerous. 'Tis said, tljat whenever the md gathers on the top of Table Mountain, the wind blows 1 the southeast. The winds of southern Africa are very Glful, changing from the northwest to the southeast without H moment's warning, more than the gathering of the cloud- ed 00 Table Mountain. There is much less shipping in port than I expected to 0Bi i a couple English men-of-war, half a dozen sleamers, e thirty or ibrty merchant vessels and smaller craft ^K about all. Id its general appearance. Cape Town reminds one of a pe* England city, and viewed from the ship, nestled as it is ■* (he base of Table JJountain, with its many church spires tod itne buUdings, the substantial farm-houses on Ihe outskirts, Wo caw arriving and dopai'ting, all together form a picture t will forever remain imprinted upon my memory, ever l» bo looked at with pleasure. ■My first ramble about Cape Town was when on general ^ert? «id BccompHuied by oae of the orderlies. After 102 CHINA AND JAPAN, landing and purchasing what articles we wished, we Ret ^^^ for a stroll about the city. The site of Cape Town is ^^ inclined plane, gently sloping from northeast to southw^^^' Long street, extending from the landing in a northwest (i^* rection through the town, is the principal street. It is vef^^ wide, smoQth, and level, and on it are located the court hous^^ post office, and principal church, hotel, banks, and stores i^^ the city. Other streets run parallel with this, connected witE^ each other by numerous cross-streets. After walking, for »* short time we agreed that it was much easier and more pleas- ant to ride. Accordingly we procured a cab, — "Hansoms'* they call them, light, two-wheeled, basket concerns, with a seat perched up behind for the driver, just room enough for two, and very easy, very nice to ride in we found them. Everything arranged, away we started along central wharf, next the sea, our first object being to visit the Castle. Our pony was smart and active, and we were brought to our des- tination in a short time after we started, stopping a few min- utes at the barracks on our way, for the purpose of seeing the soldiers drill. The Castle is an ancient Dutch structure, built in the early years of the colony. It has heavy stone walls, and surround- ing it is a wide, deep moat now disused and filled with rushes and long grass. We passed over a draw bridge, entered through an archway (which is closed by a heavy iron gate,) and stood in a square some forty or fifty feet across. Stone staircases lead to the top of the walls on each side, one of which we ascended and stood on the summit of the fortress. A few heavy ancient pieces of ordnance on the side facing the sea, were the only defenses. Below are casemates and beds for mortars. Around the walls, inside, are rooms where the married soldiers, their wives and families, of the troops stationed at Cape Town reside. A guard is daily detailed from the barracks for duty here. " Will you not come up to the barracks," said a sergeant. AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 103 as we were about leaviog. After a momeDt's hesitation we replied " certainly," and having dismissed our carriage, we went there with him. " The barracks " is a fine large brick building on the southern outskirts of the town. It is situ- ated some little distance back from the street, with a small parade-ground in front, within the walls, and a fine large one in the park, between them and the street. Entering, we found the barracks turned topsyturvy, and everything at variance with the usual cleanliness and good order of a mili- tary station. " You must not wonder at not finding us in better order," said the sergeant, " for the place has just been vacated by the ninth, and we, the tenth, arrived here only two days ago; but, come with me to the 'Canteen' and taste our Cape wines." We had heard much said in praise of the Cape wines, and after tasting we were disposed to add a good word of our own. Among others, there were placed before us the sev- eral kinds of Constancia, which had been presented our host by his friend — the superintendent of the vineyard. Such delicate, fine flavored wines it had never been our good for- tune to taste before, and I fear that we did not strictly fol- low the very good advice of Mr. Bacchus, who says: ti Let them three parts of wine all duly season, With nine of water, who'd preserve their reason ; The first gives health, the second sweet desire ; The third tranquility and sleej) inspire : These are the wholesome draughts which wise men please Who from the banquet home return in peace. From a fourth measure insolence proceeds : Uproar a fifth ; a sixth wild license breeds ; A seventh brings bhick eyes and livid bruises ; The eighth the constable next introduces ; Black gall and hatred lurk the ninth beneath ; The tenth is madness, arms and fearful death. For too much wine poured in one little vessel, Trips up all those who seek with it to wrestle." 104 CHINA AND JAPAN, Mindful to some degree of this advice, with many thanks to our English friends for their hospitality, we at length bade them " good-bye," and continued our ramble about the town. Nearly opposite the barracks is the new market — ^a fine, large brick building, built and owned by the government. The stalls within are rented from th^ government, and are, for the most part, tended by fine-looking, buxom English girls. At a subsequent visit, in the evening, when the build- ing was lighted up, I was charmed by the fine display of fruits, wreaths, flowers, and not a little by the fresh beauty of many of the venders. Captivated partly by some luscious looking pears, closely resembling our Bartletts, and partly by the winning looks and tone of the vender as she said " six- pence" to my inquiry as to their price, I was led to invest somewhat largely in them, and I must confess that I am unable to decide which I enjoyed most, the pears or the con- versation which I had with the vender whilst tasting them. The greater number of these venders are farmers' daughters who come in from the country to dispose of their produce. Many of them are quite intelligent, witty and lady-like, as. well as quite pretty in appearance. Leaving the market and ascending the eminence at the rear of the town on which the signal-station stands, we had a splendid bird's-eye view of Cape Town. Hardly could a checker-board be laid out with more regularity, and every- thing looked so exact, so neat and so clean, that I stood for a long time enjoying the view. Our lodgings for the night were at the Central Hotel, kept by a middle-aged, matronly English lady with whom I spent several hours very pleas- antly in conversing. We had as good accommodations as one could desire, and I would recommend the Central Hotel to any one visiting Cape Town, and desiring " food and lodg- ings." In the evening I went out with one of the gentle- men boarders for a walk, and to make some calls. As a class, I was far better pleased with the English than I expected, sod I have formed many pleasant acquaintances among them tt Cape Town. The head of Long street opeas upon the Government gwninds, througU which extends the mile long oak avenue, 8 thousand old oaks, with seats underneath for visitors to r»l and refresh themselves. Upon the right, a short distance from the entrance, in a Bmall but beautiful garden, (by some oiled the Botanical, by others the Governor's garden,) 'itandB a fine large granite building, the Colouiul Museum. His I visited several times. A hall extends through the middle of the building, on the right of which is the Public library. Openiug the door and entering this room, one is amfranted by a lar^e, splendid oil painting of Queen Victoria. loever visit the museum without slopping awhile and enjoy- g this lovely painting. 'Tia said that when Prince Alfred visited Cape Town a few years ago, after an absence from ibome of several years, and saw this portrait of bis mother, be was affected to tears, so true to life is it e^cecuted. On ihe left of the hall, before m d h museum, contain- [jng stuffed specimens of m ha mala of South Af- itics, and also a valuable coll f h 11 and other curios' 3lie« peculiar to the country M ny p mens here found e not in any other mus^enm oh Id Nearly opposite fhe iBtiseum is the residence f h G n r of the Colony, Bir Harry Wood house. Here many of tis have made a commencement to the col- lection of curiosities which we inlend lo gather this cruise. faiive a few shells, porcupine quill)', and ostrich eggs. There are many other articles which we would purchase if le ship were now " homeward bound," hut wliich we think are had better postpone until tliat time. Of the incidents of our stay at Cape Town, there is none tfxat will be remembered with more pleasare by me than the n which a number of ua made to Wynberg, a very tut country town some eighteen or twenty miles &om 106 CHINA AJiD JAPAS, Cupe Town. Being on sbore one day on an invitation to . dine with an English gentleman, and after dinner having a fev hours lo invest in sightseeiog, we concluded that the most profitahle investment would be an excursion to "Wjnberg. We went thither in the cars, Wynberg being connected with Cape Town by railway. A word or two now aboul the cars. They are some twenty-five or thirty feet in length and divi- ded off into apartments large enough to accommodate four persons each. According to position and furnisbing ihey are denominated first and second class. They are entered by doors on the side?, and aa soon as one is in and seated the door ia shot and faalened on the ontside by the condiictoi" who rides on a liille platform at the rear of the car. After leav- ing Cape Town, our road for two or three miles was Jilong the beach, through pleasant, fine looking farms, with neat, cosy farm-houses attached, the prospect varied here and there by a wind mill. I will here mention that all the grind- ing done at the Cape is by wind power, there being, as yet, no steam or water power employed. After riding two or three miles along the beach, the road turned ofi^ into the interior, running all the way through fine ' farms and vineyards. We were about an hour in going to Wynberg, slopping at five stations on our way there. From the conductor we learned that we would have two hours in which lo look about the place before the train returned j A. and myself, therefore, agreed that we would make ihe moat of those two hours. We took our way over a smooth, wi^S and beaulifully shaded road, Hanked on either hand l gant mansions situated in wide, beautifully laid out gn We walked Slowly, that we might the heller enjoy so beaulj', filling our souls with deep copious draughts, a our two hours passed by almost like soqie beautiful dro Perhaps you may ihink that I am indulging in some al ecstasies as are incident to sailors on shore, over rural c. and prettily embowered houses; but I may be excns I A TOTAGE THITHER. 107 i, for the beauties of "Wynberg are of no comiiion order. Ve exleniled our walk a short distance out from the village ■ Wynberg to the Constaucia estate where are made ihe 'Celebrated Constancia wines. The vineyard is only a few n extent, but there, and in no other place, ia raised the [enuioe, original Constancia. It is difficult for any one fa- kiliar with Ihe spirituous taste of most wines, to believe that my BUch rich, syrupy fluids can be produced from the grape lone, without the addition of sugar. But such is the fuct. The grapes are permitted to almost wilt upon the vines be- jbre they are plucked, and to facilitate this process the leaves led from the \-ines. One accustomed to Ihe mode of ntsiog grapes with us would scarcely recognize a Cape uf Good Hope vineyard. Al a little distance, he could hardly distinguish it from a potato field, the vines not being over three feet high, bunches f fresh shoots supported on old knotty, venerable, gray look- ing Btnlks, many of which are as old as the vineyard. This B about two hundred years of age, having been planted by me of the lirst goveroors, and gallantly called after his wife, ** Constancia,." lifiaving Constancia and Wynberg we took the ears and leiuraed lo Cape Town. We had agreeable companions on Ala return trip, in the shape of an old English merchant and Uf daughter, a lovely young lady about sixteen or seventeen JctM M. A blunder made in treading upon the old gen- llaoan'ft corns introduced ua, and long before we reached (V|)e Town, we were quite good friends, and bad invitations loiisit them at their home. a we liave been lying here, the ship has been fairly wronged with visitors, ladies and gentlemen coming off from tlwrB by lighter loads. At one time there were over a hun- ^"^ on board, all ansiouH to see an American man-of-war, *Binh, according to their accounts, is quite a curiosity to the C»|M! Town people. There were so many visitors that al- 108 CHIHA AND JjLrAX, ^H mosit every one of the crew had some one to wKom lie wad " showing the ehip." 'Twas laughable to see some almos ' ignorant land lubber, conceited enough to strive to explain the managing ol' a vessel in a storm or ihe working of tbe battery in action to one wlio doubtless knew much more about the matter than he himself did. But the moat laughable in- cident of all was the explanation of the rifle gun on the fore- castle, given by " Jib Bogue," and how he expatiated upon its virtues, to a nicely dressed, intelligent, and fiue looking English lady. He said, " Madam, dis am de rible gun, what carries de comic-al skell, which kills de men, cuts up de rig- gin and, and kicks up de d — I generally." To have seen the HStoniiiliment of the lady and to have heard the roar of laughter with which this speech was received would have made the most sedate person smile. Wednesday even'n No embe 10 h the officers of the Wachuselt gave a ball lo he Cape Town people, which proved lo be a very succp ful e hne affiir. Guns were run forward, awnin sp ead h i a t deck hung round with flags, and in ho an fo d n o <» very good and tastefully decorated ball oom A da k th deck was illumin- ated, and before seven o'clock the guests had all arrived and the dancing commenced. I cannot speak very highly of the band, but the music that Ihey discoursed was much better than would be expected from their appearance. There were twenty-sis ladies present, about the same number of civilians, three or four English officers, and a few of the Hartford's, beside our own. When the dancing commenced aft, seta were also formed among the men forward. All went on nicely for a time, but too frequent visits to the decanters eet out on the ward-room tables and free of access to all, helped along by sundry flasks of " Cape smoke," brought off from shore, at length began to take etfect, and then tlie " ruxion^' commenced. Several not satisfied with dancing forward, must go aA to dance with the ladies. Being refused by theae L TOTAQE TBITHER, 109 IB disturbance vas made, but thej were Boon confined, and with a few slight exceptions, the ball passed off very quietly iftnd very pleasantly, and I think gave perfect satisfaction to 1. Friday, November lOtb, another was added to the number of those who have bid home and friends "good-bye" forever. .mea Ryan, captain of the forecastle, died ihat day, after painfnl and lingering illness. He was buried on sLore bere the following Sunday with military honors. He was a tfiorongh seaman, a good shipmate, and well liked by both officers and men. He was about thirty yeara of age. a na- ive of New Bedford, Massachusetts, and it is said, leaves no amily. While we were lying at Rio the raaster-at-ariBS, and one r two others, accused the yeoman to the executive otTicer of ilsving a candle lighted in his room until lute one nighl, and, ■t ihe same time, the yeoman was drunk, having come off ehore about two houra previous. Accordingly he was :disnitei] and put on deck as a landsman. After this, he grew morose, down-hearted, and, as some would have it, "out pf iia head." One day, when ashore in a boat, he deserted. 'nU before leaving Rio he returned, and in the most pitiable p^hti barefooted ami bareheaded, clothed in rags, half 'Warved, and without a cent in his pocltet. A few days after lie wme on board, his feet commenced paining him, and aboiriiig them to an old sailor, who had spent several years in Brazil, he was asked where he had been while ashore. He answered, " To the mines." The man then told him lliM ho had got "jiggers," or chegers, in his feet from going ^Wefoot on the sand, and unless they were taken out they °^ld multiply iudelinilely, and eventually cause his death. Soiovork he went and cut out all that mere visible, and so wiilinued day after day, until they were all gone. The jig- gcn bear a striking resemblance to the small maggots some- ^["^ (ouiid in cheese. From that time he suffered almost 110 CHINA. AND JAPAN, untold torments, being confined in the brig and sweat-boxes, having hia head shaved and blistered, and every conceivable indignity heaped upon him, alike by officer and man. A day or two ago a genlkraan carae off from shore and inquired for him. Afier a few moments' conversation with him, he went to the Captain and by paying ttie amount that he was in- debted to the ship procured his dificharge and took him on Bhore i and I, with a few others, was glad that at last Le was free from his tormeniord. I ihouglit at the time, and have since been convinced tliat the master-at-arms himself lit the candle in his room when the yeoman was asleep, so as to get him reduced, and get some one of bis friends appointed in his place. In this underlalting lie succeeded but too well. I have narrated this circumstance to you, my dear R., in order that you may see wlmt men there are in the navy, and to what extent the jealousies and envyings of men will some- times carry them, trampling under toot every feeling or sense of honor, respect, or pity. This was done, loo, against a ship mate, who ought in these respects to be second only to relatives and friends. The morning of the same day that the ball took place, the U. S. S. Hartford came mto pAt bearing the flag of Kear Admiral Henry H. Bell, and now on her way to join the Asiatic squadron, over which slie is to be flag-ship. I have heard that the Admiral is not very much pleased with our long stay at Bio and Cape Town, and that we had not joined the squadron on the station ere this. Hia first order was that we should be ready for sea in twenty-four hours ; but he afterwards extended the time to six days, so that to-mor- row we expect Id leave here. The Hartford is one of the class designated as "second-rates," of something over 1,800 tons burden, ship-rigged and carrying a battery of twenty- one heavy guns. Everything about her looks like a mao-of- war, a long, low, black hull, a beautiful model, and some- thing about her apara truly majestic. I intended to bave AND A VOYAGE THITHER. Ill ▼isited her, but had the afternoon watch on visiting day, and BO could not go very well. To-day has been the most lovely one that we have had in a long, long time. It has not been without clouds, but what there were, were light, airy things which seemed to enhance instead of detracting from the beauteousness of the day. A day it has been on which a person could sit for hours, watch- ing the clouds, and building castles in the air, resigning for a tioie all the cares and anxieties of the present, and in per- fect happiness and contentment, residing in those castles which his imagination has constructed. It has been said ** perfect happiness is not to be found in this world," but as I sat this afternoon in the gangway, and watched those light, fleecy clouds as they passed overhead in their rapid flight, meanwhile building a magnificent castle, of which a some one was to be the chief garniture, I experienced what I call almost perfect happiness. Yes, methinks the happiness I then felt might be called " perfect '* with more propriety than can two-thirds of that which passes undisputed for such. I was disturbed in my castle building by the announcement that supper was ready, so forthwith I had to descend from my lofty elevation to a bowl of coffee and common place words and thoughts. I was not a little inclined to be provoked at the interruption, and exclaim with Ecclesiastes, * Behold, everything is vanity and vexation of spirit." I am glad that to-morrow we start again on our way to China* 112 CHINA AND JAPAN, LETTER XII. U. S. S. Wachusett, Batavia, Java, > January 26, 1866. ) Mr Dear R. : Coffee and spices ! In my childish thoughts the name of Java was always associated with coffee, while her sister islands were similarly suggestive of spices of various kinds. The fact may perhaps be accounted for by the close study which I was wont to bestow upon certain gaily colored labels which decorated packages of these articles. In mentioning these islands a writer has remarked that " Bishop Heber's beautiful missionary hymn has so associ- ated the fragrance of spices and poesy with these islands, that one feels reluctant to break the bonds of genius which have thus bound them together ;" but true it is, the " spicy breezes " are wafted only by the poet's imagination. My last letter left us at Cape Town. When I went on deck at six bells the following morning, I found that we were under way and under steam alone, following the lead of the Hartford, steaming out to sea. " Through ocean's perils, storms, and unknown waters. Speed we to Asia." We had to keep slackening our speed to avoid running into the Hartford, but as soon as we were clear of the land, stop- ped steaming, and made all sail ; then matters changed. She carries more than double the amount of sail that we do, her propeller trices up, and she can sail almost as fast again as we can. She lowered her topsails two or three times, for us to come up, but a little before dark she hoisted them up, and AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 113 owered tliem for ua no more. The next morning Blie vias Dnl of sight and we have not seen her since. She arrived : about fourteen days before we did, and after remain- ing about a wetek, started for llong Kong, the Admii'al Lav- Qg concluded that we were not coming to Biilavia. Shortly after leaving Cape Town we had our second court- nftrtial ; this time, for theft. The court acquitted the pris- T of the charge, and aearcely one in the ship believed 1 to be guilty of the crime of which he was accused, tltbough the missing article was found in hig bag. Stealing 9 one of the worst crimes that can be committed on board ihi[i ; for, where there are so many, in such close connection iritli one another, and with so little room that we can call •ui" own, dolhes, valuables, and money even are ofti^n placed irithia Ibe reach of a would he thief. I have noticed one jood thing in this respect, in this ship's company, that when f person has been detected taking anything cot his own, let it be ever ao trivial, or from whoever taken, one and all liare made it their province to bring the affair before ihe proper authorities. By them all such acta have been severely punUhed. Tliese stringent mcaaures have beea attended by At best results, and it is now no unusual thing to see money pubUcly placed in some one's ditty box, and then the box Vft for days unlocked about the decks ; aoil very seldom ia imut heard to complain that he ha^ lost anything. On this passage T and I had a very narrow escape ^m death. While standing in the gangway and talking to- E semblance lo veal. They are so large that one made two meals for the whole ship's eompany. The day before Christmas the crew had double rations of whatever they wished served out to them, and the cooks were basy from morning until night in making preparations for the Christmas dinner. Ai'ter hammocks were piped down, they were piled up upon the hatches, and the bertb-deck bnlliantly illuminated. The hand were then collected and, Beated upon the hammocks, they discoursed sweet and fiet- itirring music to all that were of a dancing turn. This to- einging and other sports, was kept up until nearly midnight, one and all enjoying themselves ''hugely." 1 did not feel very well, and consequently did not join in the Jesttvities to any great extent ; still, I enjoyed myself very much in looking at the rest. Christmas was made as much of a holiday a* possible, having no quarters, and no more Work than was absolttlely necessary, with the privilege of Haoking all day, which is granted only on rare occasions. Then the dinner 1 It was the best we had tasted for many Silayi and much better than 1 thought it was possible loget D]) imder the circumstances. There were plumb puddings, thickeii pies, mince pies, cakes, and any amount of ale and IS which were sent forward from the ward-room. Tbia Christmas, however, was far from bting a merry one lOine; for up forward in (he sick bay, swinging in a col, I «u toeuag restlessly about, with the pains of scarlet fever. 110 CBHtA AMD JAPAir, Up to tliiK time the holiilays bad been aesocialed a with "now, oluigh ride^, and certttin frozen ean and s liut tbU CliriHimuri will ever be remembered in i with Mwoltorin)t \itai, as the therm em cter stood in borhood of 100' above »ero on ibat day and for e aHcrwardB. During this lime the wind entirely died ui ao thai It was almosi suffocating on the benb deck. It !h iinjilKJiaant to be sick under the best of circumstan^ but how much more sad it is thus lo be iar away fi-om b in a foreign cflunlry, or in foreign waters, amon^t s g(