3tt|aca, JStm $atk CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924071164960 THE CHINA SEA DIRECTOEY VOL. I. CONTAINING DIEECTIONS FOR THE APPROACHES TO THE CHINA SEA, BY MALACCA, SINGAPORE, SUNDA, BANKA, GASPAR, CARIMATA, RHIO, VARELLA, AND DURIAN STRAITS. THIRD EDITION. PUBLISHED BY OBDER OP THE LOKDS COMMISSIONERS OP THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: FEINTED FOB THE HTDEOGEAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTY! AND SOLD BY J. D. POTTER, Agent fob the sale of Admikalty Chaets, 31 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TO WEB HILL. 1886. Price Four Shillings and Sixpence. Or ADVERTISEMENT TO THIRD EDITION. The China Sea Directory, Vol. I., contains Sailing Directions for the approaches to the China Sea by Malacca, Singapore, Sunda, Banka, Caspar, Carimata, Rhio, Varella, and Durian Straits ; also general observations on the passages from the Cape of Good Hope to Sunda Strait aad Singapore. The material used has been gathered from the following sources : Malacca strait from the surveys of Lieutenants Ward and Jackson, Indian Navy, 1852-60. Portions of it, viz., the Lankawa islands, Penang and its approaches, Diuding island and channel, Perak river entrance and its approaches, and Larut river, have been re-surveyed by Captain Napier, Commander the Honourable F. Vereker, and Lieutenant H. Belam, in H.M. surveying vessels, 1876-84 ; also the south shore between Aroa islands and the Carimon islands has been partially re-surveyed by the Dutch. Singapore, Banka, and Rhio straits are from the surveys of Messrs. Richards, Stanton, and Reed, Masters R,N., 1860-68, and Mr. Thompson, Government Surveyor, 1843-49 ; portions of Banka and Rhio strait have been re-surveyed by the Dutch Government. Durian strait is from the surveys of Lieutenants CoUinson and Moresby, Indian Navy, 1822 ; Lieutenant Tjassens, Dutch Navy, 1843, with additions by Mr. Stanton, 1862. Sunda strait to Banka strait is from various authorities. H.M. surveying vessels in 1865-6 searched in vain for many reported dangers and rectified the positions of others ; similar work is being carried on by the Dutch surveyors ; yet, as no complete survey has been made, vessels should navigate it with caution. Gaspar and Caiirnata straits are principally from the re-surveys made by the Dutch from 1880-5 ; the southern approaches to Carimata were partially examined by H.M.'s surveying vessels Sylvia and Nassau, 1874-6, and the Carimata islands, with some of the Montaren group, were surveyed by Lieutenant H. Hoskyn, H.M.S. Flying Fish in 1880. The positions of some of the out- lying reefs, however, have yet to be investigated. TT ■.•»rt*»/*e iXTi. e\-\ cod n O A second edition, revised by Staff-Commanders J. C. Kichards and J. Hitchfield, of the Hydrographic Department, was published in 1878. To the present edition, revised by Staff-Commander 0. H. C. Langdon, of the Hydrographic Department, has been added direc- tions for the west coast of Sumatra. These, are compiled from Horsburgh, various old authorities, and partial surveys conducted by the Dutch from 1871-77, with amendments to 1885 ; but little is known of this large extent of coast. Directions for the coast of Java between Sunda strait and Batavia, resulting from recent Dutch surveys, have also been added. Much valuable information for this work has also been gathered from the Remark books of H.M. vessels employed on the China station. As this volume embraces a large extent of coast, and many islands and dangers which are but imperfectly explored, it must be considered incomplete. Seamen therefore are invited to transmit to the Secretary of the Admiralty notice of any errors or omissions they may discover, or additional information they may obtain, with a view to the improvement of this work for the benefit of the mariner. W. J. L. W. Hydrograpliio OfiBce, Admiralty, London, October 1886. ORTHOGRAPHY. As far as has been found possible with existing knowledge the native names in this book are spelt in accordance with the following system, which will be gradually introduced into all Admiralty Sailing Directions. Where native names have been so long written in a form, which, though not in accordance with this system, has become familiar to English eyes from being so spelt in all charts and maps, they are retained, and no European names are changed from the correct orthography. Information as to the proper spelling of native names so as to produce the nearest approximation to the true sound, by this system, is invited, but it must be remembered that only an approximation is aimed at. The position of the accent denoting the syllable on which emphasis, or the " stress," should be laid is very important, as the sound of so many words is utterly changed by its misplacement. Letters. Pronunciation and Kemarks. Examples. a ah, a as in father Java, Banina, Somali Bari. e eh, e as in benefit Tel-el-Kebir, Olehleh, Yezo, Levuka, Peru. i Englisli e ; i as in ravine ; the sound of ee in beet. Thus, not Feejee, but Fiji, Hindi. o as in mote Tokio. u long u as in flute ; the sound of oo in boot, oo or ou should never be employed for this sound. Thus, not Zooloo or Zoulou, but Zulu, Sumatra. AU vowels are shortened in sound by doubling Yarra, Tanna, Mecca, the following consonant. Jidda, Bonny. Doubling of a vowel is only necessary where Nuulua. there is a distinct repetition of the single sound. ai English i as in ice Shanghai. au ow as in how - - thus, not Foochow, but Euchau. ao is slightly different from above Macao. ei is the sound of the two Italian vowels, but is frequently slurred over, -when it is scarcely to be distinguished from ey in the English they. Beirut, Beilul. b English b. e is always soft, but is so nearly the sound of s that it should be seldom used. If Celebes were not already recognised it would be written Selebes. Celebes. ch is always soft as in church Chingchin. d English d. f English f. ph should not be used for the sound off. Thus, not Haiphong, but Haifong, Nafa. VI Letters. Pronunciation and Eemarks. Examples. kh gh 1 m is always hard. (Soft g is given by./) is always pronounced when inserted. English j. Dj should never be put for this sound. English /(. It should always be put for the hard c. Thus, not Corea, but The Oriental guttural is another guttural, as in the Turkish As in English. has two separate sounds, the one hard as in the English word finger, the other as in singer. As these two sounds are rarely employed in the same locality, no attempt is made to dis- tinguish between them. as in English. should never be employed ; qu is given as kw T I ■ As in English. is always a consonant, as in yard, and therefore should never be used as a terminal, i or e being substituted. Thus, not Mikinduny, but not Kwaly, but English z Accents should not generally be used, but where there is a very decided emphatic syllable or stress, which affects the sound of the word, it should be marked hy an acute accent. Galapagos. Japan, Jincbuen. Korea. Khan. Dagh, Ghazi. Kwangtung. Sawakin. Kikuyu. Mikindani. Kwale. Zulu. Tongatabu, Galapagos, Palawan, Sarawak. Purely Dutch names are retained as in Dutch, but Malay names are written as above. The Dutch method of spelling the native names is in accordance with their own system of pronounciation of the Boman letters. Thus the Dutch oe is pronounced u. „ J, j „ y, though not always. I, ,, 00 „ the long o. This must be borne in mind when using any Dutch publication; thu.? on a Dutch chart Batu is spelt Batoe, Ayer as Ajer, &c. In Malay, the terminal k is scarcely sounded ; thus Pcrak is more nearly Perah, and Prick, Prioh. Vll GLOSSARY OF A FEW MALAY WORDS OF FREQUENT OCCURRENCE IN CHARTS AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. Malay. English. Malay. English. Ayer Fresh water. Lumpur Mud. masin Salt water. Merah Red. Batu Knek, stone. Nangka Jack fruit. brani - Loadstone. Padang Plain, open space Bender Port ior trade. Panjang Long, tall. Besar Large, great. Pinang Betel nut. Beting Sandbank. Pisang Banana. Buaya Alligator. Ponchak Peak of a hiU. Blikit HUl. Putih White. Burong Bird. Rantau Reach of a river. Dapur Cooking p'ace. Salat Strait, channel. Gadong House. Suugi River, stream. Gunong Mountain. Tambaga - Copper. api - Volsano. Tanah' Land, country, earth. Gusong Shoal. Tanjong Cape, point. Itam- Black. Tasik Lake. Kampong Enclosure, village. Teluk, telok Bay, cove, creek. Kapal Ship. Timor East. Karaug Coral reef, rock. laut - North-east. Kwala Mouth of a river. Trumbu Shoal. Lahuan Anchorage, harbour. Trusan Channel passage. Lampoug - Buoy. Ujong Cape, point, pro- Laut, laut besar Sea. montory. Layar Sail. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. MALACCA STRAIT. Page. General remarks. Winds, weather, currents, and tides. Directions for making passages ....... 1-9 Sumatra island, general description. Pulo Brasse. Cedar and Surat passages. Pulo Wai. Bengal passage. Achi head, bay and river. Malacca passage ....... 10-17 Pedir coast, general remarks, directions. Telok Samoi. Diamond point. Edie.Besar ....... 17-23 Lanksa bay. Lankat river. Dehli river and banks. Bunja shoals. Batu Barra river. Pulo Varela. Lidung bay. Sungi Rokan. PuloEupat - - - - - - - *. 24-31 Brewer strait. Siak river. Sabong and Mendol straits. Carimon islands. The Brothers ...... 32-34 Salang or Junkseylon island. Puket harbour. Tharua harbour. Yogel, Pilgrim, and Brothers islands ..... 35-47 Pulo Lantar. Telibon. Trang river. Butong group. Pulo Lankawi. Bass harbour. Queda river. Pulo Pera .... 48-56 Pulo Penang (Georgetown), channels to. Pry river. Port Weld. Lariit river. Tbaipeng ...... 57-65 Pulo Pangkor. Dinding river and channel. Perak river. Pulo Jarra. Selangor river. Klang strait and river. Lumaut strait - - 66-81 Langat river. Parcelar hill. Bambek shoal. Cape Rachada. Aroa islands. North Sands. One Fathom bank. South Sands - - 81-86 Lingey river. Shoals. Malacca town and roadstead. Water islands. Formosa river and bank. Pulo Pisang. Banks. Tanjong Bulus - 85-94 CHAPTER II. SINGAPORE STRAIT. Singapore strait, general description. Western part of strait. RafiSes light. Tides. Temporary anchorages. Directions, western part - Singapore New harbour - . ... Singapore town and road ...... Eastern part of Singapore strait. Battam, Bulong, and Sumpat bays. Tanjoug Brakit. Johore shoal and river. Calder harbour. Ramunia islands and shoals. Pedra Branca (Horsburgh) lighthouse - Depths. Tides. Directions, eastern part - . . . Old Strait of Singapore ..... 95- -110 110- -118 118- -125 126- -140 141- -148 149- -161 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. WEST COAST OF SUMATRA AND OrP-LTING ISLANDS. Page. General description. Winds and weather. Tides, currents. Rentes - 152 Ritieng bay. Kluang bay. Baba Awi bay. Pulo Rajah. Pulo Kas - 152-160 Pejabah islands. Rahnu. Rigas bay and harbour. Pasier islets. Ketapang Pasier bay. Analabu. Cape Felix. Kwala Batu. Susa bay. Mukkie - 160-169 Tampat Tuan bay, outlying shoals. Bakungon bay. Trumon. Inner passage. Banjak islands. Jawi Jawi island and passage. Singkel. Se Manra Gusong Telega bay. Baros. Tapanuli bay and harbour. Pulo Mansalar ....... 170-179 Pulo Ilir. Tabujong road. Sirene bank. Natal road. Ayer Bangies bay, directions. Drakes and Pylades reefs. Tiko and Priaman islands - - - - - 180-188 Padang islands, approaches, road, directions. Bongas bay. Trussan harbour. Tyingkok bay. Battuwang bay. Indrapura point. Benkulen port, road, and basin. Pulo bay. TCawur bay. Pisang harbour. Kroe road ----..- 189-206 Off-lying islands : — Siuialu, Assu, and Nias. Batu islands. Pulo Pinie. Siberut strait, winds, directions. Mentawie islands. Pagi islands. Sikakap strait. Belabuan-Ju road and harbour. Sandion, Trieste, and Engano islands --.... 206-219 CHAPTER IV. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PASSAGES BOUND THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE TO SUNDA STRAIT, AND TO PORTS IN THE CHINA SEA ; WITH A DESCRIPTION OP SUNDA STRAIT, AND OEP-LTING ISLANDS. Routes ordinarily followed from Cape of Good Hope to Sunda strait ; from Sunda strait to Singapore ..... 220-222 Winds in Indian ocean - - ... 222-224 Keeling or Cocos islands. Glendinning shoal. Christmas island. Appearance of land at entrance of Sunda strait. Java head. Caution in hazy v/eather. Cape Sangian Sira. Klapper and Trowers islands --..... 224-229 General description of Sunda strait; volcanic eruption in ; winds and tides - - - ... 229-231 South side of Sunda strait : — Princes island and channel. First point. Welcome bay. Third point. Pepper bay. Fourth point. Anjer. Thwart-way island. Great Merak island. New Anjer road and town. St. Nicholas point. Main channel . - . 231-241 CONTENTS. XI Page. North side of Sunda strait : — Flat cape.- Blimbing and Semanka bays. Pepper bay. Lampong bay. Telok Betung. Lagundi group. Krakatoa island and channels. Sebezi channel. Sebuko island. Hog point - - ..... 242-254 Zutphen islands. Anchorages and directions for channel inside the Zutphen islands. Coast of Sumatra northward of Zutphen islands. Anchorage. Working out of Sunda strait in north-west monsoon - 255-259 CHAPTEK V. SUNDA STRAIT TO BANKA STXiAIT. Monsoons and currents in Java sea ..... 260 East coast of Sumatra: — Mount Imbong. Shahbundar bank and shoals. Tulang river .--.-. 261-262 Thousand islands. Reefs. South and North Watcher. Two Brothers. Dangers between Sunda and Banka straits. Directions from Sunda strait to Banka strait, and vice versa .... 263-269 Sunda strait to Batavia : — Bantam bay. Western approaches to Eatavia. Inner or Dutch channel ; Outer channel j islands and reefs; Batavia town and road; Tanjong Priok harbour; northern approaches. Directions ...... 272-2&0 CHAPTER VI. BANKA STRAIT — AND NORTH-WEST AND NORTH COAST OP BANKA Isi/AND. General description of Banka strait; winds, tides, and currents . 291-294 Western shore of Banka strait : — Lucipara island, and coast of Sumatra from Lucipara point to Batakarang point. Sungi Sungsang or Palembang - . - . ... 294-300 South coast of Banka island ..-..- 301-302 Eastern shore of Banka strait : — West coast of Banka. Toboali. Lalarie point. Timbaga rocks. Nangka islands. Meddang islands. Banks. Tanjong Kalian. Muntok. Tanjong Bersiap, and Ular. Frederick Henry rocks ...... 302-315 Stanton and Lucipara channels, — Banks in ; Directions into Banka strait 316-322 Directions from Stanton and Lucipara channels through Banka strait - 323-326 North-west and North coasts of Banka island ; Tubuse bay, Klabat bay, Gunong Maras ....... 327-329 xu CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. GASPAR STRAIT. — NORTH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. — SHOALS. NORTHWARB AND NORTH-WESTWARD OF GASPAR STRAIT. Page. General description of Caspar strait - - - 330-331 Dangers in southern approach to Gaspar strait - - . - 331-334 Macclesfield channel, directions, tides - - 334-343 Clement channel, directions - - ... 343-347 Stolze channel, directions ...... 347-357 North-east coast of Banka island; reefs. Marawang road. Liat bay - - - - .... 357-360 Dangers northward and north-westward of Gaspar strait - - 361-363 Directions for leaving or approaching the north entrance of Gaspar strait ......... 363-366 CHAPTER VIII. CARIMATA STRAIT. General description of Cariraata strait. Currents. Tides - . 367-369 Western shore of Carimata strait : — South, East, and Nortli coasts of Billiton, with the adjacent islands and dangers ... 369-375 Islands and dangers on west side of Carimata strait and in the fairways ...... . 375-387 Eastern shore of Carimata strait : — General description ; West coast of Borneo; Sambar point to Padang Tikar river, with the adjacent islands and dangers -.-.... Directions for approaching Carimata strait from the southward and from the northward ..... . 395_o98 CHAPTER IX. OUTER ROUTE PROM BANKA STRAIT TO SINGAPORE. Coast of Sumatra from Banka strait to Cape Bon. Tuju islands. Docan and Toty islands. Castor and Uchester banks. Taya, Sinkep, and Ponubo islands - . - . . . 399_402 Linga island, roadstead, and town - . . . . 402-404 North-east coast of Linga ; Islets ofF. Frederick reef - . 404-406 East and North-east coasts of Bentan, with adjacent islands and dangers --.-.... 406-409 Tides and winds in outer route from Banka strait to Singapore. Directions . ..... 409-410 CONTENTS. xm CHAPTER X. RHIO STRAIT. General description of Rhio strait West side of Rhio strait East side of Rhio strait - - - Tides. Directions through Rhio strait - Directions for working through Rhio strait Directions for approaching Rhio roadstead Page. 411-412 412-418 418-426 426-428 429-434 434-435 CHAPTER XI. VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS. General remarks. Sumatras or heavy squalls common to these straits - 436 Varella islands and channels. Sinkep island. Speke and Atkin rocks. \ Alang-tiga islands -.---.- 437-439 Jambi bay. Amphitrite bay. Lima and Ponubo straits. Pulo. Se MAOTETZC, EXCEPT 'WHERE MARBLED AS TRUE. THE BISTAKCES ARE EXPRESSES IN SEA iaiX.ES OF 60 TO A DEGREE OF I.ATITUDE. A CABI.E-S I.EirGTK IS ASSVKEB TO BE EQUAI^ TO 100 FATHOMS. Missing Page INFORMATION RELATING TO CHARTS, ^AlLIN0 DIRECTIONS, AND THE GENERAL NAVIGA- TION OF H.M. SHIPS. ON THE CORRECTION OP CHARTS, LIGHT LISTS, AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. There are three descriptions of publications as guides to naviga- tion—the charts, the sailing directions, and the light lists— which are all affected by the continual changes and alterations that take place. Of these the charts should always be, so far as our knowledge permits, absolutely correct to date ; and the light lists should be noted for the recent alterations, though space will not permit of full details being always inserted ; the sailing directions, however, cannot, from their nature, be so corrected, and in all cases where they differ from charts, the charts inust be taken as the guide. Charts. — ^When issued to a ship on commissioning, the charts have received all necessary corrections to date. As sent from the Hydrographic Office they are, as a rule, fresh from the plates. They then receive such corrections by hand in the depdts as are required, and are so issued to the ships. All small but important corrections that can be iilade by hand are notified by Notices to Mariners, and should at onde be placed on the charts to which they refer. Large corrections that cannot be conveniently thus made are put upon the plates, and fresh copies are issued to the ships to replace the others, which are directed to be destroyed to prevent the possibility of their being used in the navigation of the ship. The dates on which these large corrections are made are noted on the chart plates in the middle of the lower edge ; those of the smaller corrections at the left-hand lower comers. In all cases of quotations of charts, these dates of corrections should be givJh, as well as the number of the chart, in order that at the Adiiiir.aty it may be known what edition of the chart is referred to. , ■ ; ; • , . The Light Lists, annually published at the beginning of each year, ..are not corrected in the depots before issue, but appendices are issued every two months, giving the alterations that have Mken place, copies of which are put into the chart boxes. It is the duty of the navigating officer when he receive^ the set of charts -to ■m'ake notations in the light lists from these appendices, and from the Notices to Mariners in the box'; and to keep them so corrected from time to time. The- Sailing Directions are not corrected before issue, except occasionally for very important new rocks or dangers. Hydrp^ graphic Notices and Supplements referring to each volume are published from time to time. Supplements contain all the information received up to date siiice the publication of the volume .to which they refer, and cancel all previous Hydrographic Notices. Hydrographic Notices contain all information up. to date since the publication of the volume, or since the last Supplement or Hydrographic Notice, but endeavour is made to issue no more than one of. these affecting each volume, and, on the collection of fresh information, to include the former Notice in a Supplement. The existence of Supplement or Hydiographic Notices is to be. noted, in the tabulated form liow being placed for the purpose inside the cover of each .volume, in cases when such notations have not been raade before issue, and also on receipt of further Notices after commission. Notes should be made in the margin of the volume of sailing directions affected, as references to the Supplements or Hydrographic Notices when the latter are printed on both sides. To enable the books to 'be more conveniently corrected, however, such Supplements and Hydrographic Notices as are of moderate size are now being printed on one side only, and two copies are issued to each ship ; one to cut up, the slips being pasted in at the appro- priate place ; the other to retain intact for reference. Tp make these notations or paste in these- slips is one of the early duties of a navigating officer after drawing his box of charts and xvu books, and similar notes are to be made from Notices to Mariners that may tKereafter be received. ^ It must, however, be thoroughly understood that sailing directions "will never be correct in all details, except up to the date of the last Hydrographic Notice or Supplement, and that, as already ststted, when differences exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent information, should be taken as the guide ; for which purpose, for ordinary navigation, they are sufBcient. THE USE OF CHARTS AS NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. Accuracy of a Chart.— The value of a chart must manifestly depend upon the adcuracy of the survey on which it is based, and this becomes more important the' larger is the scale of the chart. To estimate this, the date of the survey, which is always given in the title, is a good guide. Besides the changes that, in waters where sand or mud prevails, may have taken place since the date of the survey, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circumstances that precluded great accuracy of detail, and, until a plan founded on such a survey is tested, it should be regarded with caution. It may, indeed, be said that, except in well-frequented harbours and their approaches, no surveys yet made have been so minute in their exami- nation of the bottom as to make it certain that all dangers have been found. The fullness or scantiness of the soundings is another method of estimating the completeness of a chart. When- the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed, it may be taken for granted that the " survey, was not in great detaiL' Blank spaces among soundings mean that no soundings have been obtained in these spots. When the surrounding soundings are deep it may with fairness be assumed that in the blanks the water is also deep ; but when they are shallow, or it can be seen from the rest of the chart that reefs or banks are present, such blanks should be. regarded with suspicion. This is especially the case in coral regions and off rocky coasts, and it should be remembered that in waters where rocks abound it is always possible that a survey, however complete - and detailed, may have failed to find every small patch. A wide berth should therefor? be given to every rocky shore or patch. !- • . ... - xviii Fathom Lines a Caution. — Except in plans of harbours that hlive been surveyed in detail, the five-fathom line on most Admiralty charts is to be considered as a caution or danger line against nnnecessaj"ily approaching the shore or bank within that line, on account of tjie possibility of the existence of undiscovered inequalities of the bottom, which nothing but an elaborate detailed survey could reveal. In general surveys of coasts or of little-frequented anchor- ages, the time required for such a detailed examination does not permit of its execution, nor do the necessities of the case demand it. The ten-fathom line is, on rocky shores, another warning, especially for ships of heavy draught. Charts where no fathom lines are marked must be especially regarded with caution, as it generally means that soundings were too scanty and the bottom too uneven to enable thenj. to be drawn with accuracy. Distortion of Printed Charts. — ^The paper on which charts are printed has to be damped. On drying distortion takes place, from the inequalities in the paper, which greatly varies with difiEerent paper and the amount of the original damping ; but it does not affect navigation. It must not be expected that accurate series of angles taken to different points will always exactly agree, when carefully plotted upon the chart, especially if the lines to objects be long. The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion. Chart on larg^est scale always to be used, — It sometimes happens thjit, from press of work, only the copper plate of the larger scale chfirt of a particular locality can at once receive any extensive re- arrangement of coastline or soundings. This is an additional reason, besides the obvious one of the greater detail shown on a larger sca.le chart, why this largest scale chart should always be used for navi- gating. Cautioii iv, using small Scale Charts. — In approaching the land or dangerous banks, regard must alvra.ys be had to the scale of the chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only y?irds on a l£^rge scale chart, whereas on a small scale the same amount of displacement means large fractions of a mile. This is particularly to be observed when coming to an anchor on a narrow ledge of convenient depth at some distance from the shore. For the same reason bearings to objects near should be used in prefercBce to objects farther off, although the latter may be more XIK prominent, as a small error in bearing or in laying it down on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the line to be drawn. Lights. — All the distances given in the Light Lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of an observer's eye of 15 feet. The table in the Light List affords a means of ascertaining how mnch more or less the light is visible should the height of the bridge be more or less. The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must not be confounded with the true range. Again, refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther than under ordinary circumstances. When looking out for a light at night, the fact is often forgotten that from aloft the range of vision is much increased. By noting a star immediately over the light a very correct bearing may be after- wards obtained from the standard compass. Fog Signals. — ^Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from wind, large areas of silence have been found in different directions and at different distances from the origin of a sound, even in clear weather. Therefore too much confidence fihonld not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires sofhe time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptiljly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. lii such a case no signal may be sounded. Taken together, these facts should induce the utmost caution in closing the land in fogs. The lead is generally the only safe guide. When sound has to travel against the wind, it may be thrown upwards ; in such a case, a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. Tides and Tidal Streams. — In navigating coasts where the tidal range is considerable, caution is always necessary. It should be remembered that there are indraughts to all bays and bights, although the general run of the stream may be parallel to the shore. The turn of the tidal stream off shore is seldom coincident with the time of high and low water on the shore. In open channels, the tidal stream ordinarily overruns the turn of the vertical movement of the tide by three hours, forming what is usually known as tide and half -tide, the effect of which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream is running at its greatest velocity. XX, In crossing a bar, or shallow flats, the table- (B) at page 98 of the Tide Tables will be found of great assistance in calculating how much the water has risen or falleij at any hour of the tide. On coasts where there is much diurnal inequality in the tides, the amount of rise and fall can never be depended upon, and additional caution is necessary. It should also be remembered that at times the tide falls below the level of low- water ordinary springs. This always occurs in temperate regions at the equinoxes, but wind may produce it at any time, and the amount varies with locality. When the moon's perigee coincides with the full or new moon the same effect is often produced. Fixing Position. — The most accurate method' of fiiing a position relative to the shore is by angles between well-defined objects on the chart, All ships are now being supplied with a station pointer, and this method should be used whenever possible. Two things are, however, necessary to its successful employment. First, that the objects be well chosen ; and second, that the observer is skilful and rapid in his use of the sextant. For the former, reference can be had to the pamphlet on the use of thesliation pointer, which is in every chart box. The latter is only to be obtained by practice. It will readily be seen that in war time, when the compass may be knocked away, or rifle-fire may make it undesirable to expose the person more than necessary, a sextant ofEers great advantages, as &,ngles can be obtained from any position whence the objects are visible. It is this contingency that makes it especially desirable that all navigating officers should become expert in this method of fixing a ship's position. In many narrow waters also, where the objects may yet be at sonie dist?ince, as in coral harbours or narrow passages among mud banks, navigation by sextant and station-pointer is invaluable, as ^a true position can only be obtained by its means. A small error in either taking or plotting a bearing under such circumstances may put the ship ashore. It is not intended that the use of the compass to fix the ship should be given up ; there are many . circumstances in which it may be - usefully employed, but errors more readily creep into a position so fixed. XXI In all cases where great accuracy of position is desired, angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of additions to a ch9,rt, as fresh soundings or new buildings. Tn all such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the better, but five objects is a good number, as the four angles thus obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. In the case of ordinary soundings, it is only necessary to take a third angle now and then ; firstly, to check the general accuracy of the chart as above stated ; secondly, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the end of a line, are correctly placed. Sometimes, when only two objects are visible, a compass bearing and sextant angle may be used with advantage. In passing near a point of land, or an island, the method of fixing by doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called " four-point bearing," when the bearing is taken four points on the bow, and on the b,eam, the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives an excellent fix for a departure, but does not ensure safety, as the point, and probably the rocks off it, are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings of two points and four points on the bow, a very good position is obtained before the object is passed ; the distance of the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval. The use of a danger angle in passing outlyijig rocks with land behind should also not be forgotten. In employing this method, however, caution is necessary, as should the chart be not accurate, i.e., should the objects selected be not quite correctly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the purpose. It should not, therefore, be employed when the survey is old or manifestly imperfect. In fixing by the compass, it must always be remembered that two bearings only are liable to error. An absolute error may be made in either bearing observed ; errors may be made in applying the deviation ; or errors may creep in in laying .them on to the chart. For these reasons, a third or check bearing of some other object, should be taken, especially when near the shore or dangers. The coincidence of these three lines will prevent any mistakes. The tripod now supplied to all ships to hold the lamp over the standard compass will be found of great service in fixing position at night, as by its aid a bearing can be as accurately taken as in daylight. Its use in connection with ascertaining the change of bearing of an approaching ship's light should not be forgofteh. 4mongit astronomical methods of fixing a ship's position, attention is drawn to the- great utility of Sumner's method. A Sumner line, that is, a line drawn through the position (obtained by an assumed ' latitude and longitude by chronometer) at right angles to the bearing of the sun, as obtained from the azimuth tables, gives at times invaluable information, as the ship must be somewhere on that line. A deep cast at the same time may often serve to get an approximate position on the line. An early and very accurate position can be also obtained by Sumner's method, by getting longitude by a bright star at daylight when the horizon is well visible, and another longitude by the sun when a few degrees above the horizon. The Sumner lines drawn through the two positions thus obtained will, if the bearing of sun and star differ three points or more, give an excellent result. Current Arrows on charts only show the most usual or the mean direction of a tidal stream or current. It miist never be assuraed that the direction of a stream will not vary from that indicated by the arrow. In the same manner, the rate of a stream 6ongta'iltl'y varies with' circumstances, and the rate given on the chart is merely the mean of those found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. Change of Variation of the Compass. — The gradual change in the variation mufltnot be forgotten in laying down positions by bearing on charts. The magnetic compasses placed on? the charts for the purpose of facilitating plotting become in time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales, or when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change, may be of importance. The compasses are re-engraved when the error amounts to a quarter of a point, but the chart plates cannot be corrected more frequently from the impossibility of making alterations too often on one spot in a copper plate. The geographical change in the variation is in some parts of the world sufficiently rapid to need consideration. For instance, in approaching Halifax from Newfoundland the variation changes 10° in less than 500 miles. The variation chart should be consulted on this head. For later information respecting the lights which are described in the China Sea Directory, Vol. I > seamen should consult the Admiralty- List of Lights in South Africa, East Indies, China, &c. This Light List is published early in the current year, corrected tot the preceding 31st i)ecember. G&-S [1413] 1000 [.F5] 6/90 THE CHINA SEA DIEECTOEY. Vol. I. CHAPTER I. MALACCA STRAIT. Variation 2° 30' East in 1886. GENERAL REMARKS. — Malacca strait may be considered as limited on the north-west by a line joining Achi (Acheen) head and Salang or Junkseylon island, and on the south-east by a line joining Carimon islands and Tanjong Bulus, at the western entrance of Singapore strait. Within these limits Malacca strait is 550 miles long, in a general south-easterly direction.* The navigable channel is of considerable width at the north-western part. Abreast Penang it is 120 miles wide, and gradually decreases in width until Aroa islands and North Sands are approached/ Here com- mences a series of long and narrow shoal banks, which extend nearly through the centre of the strait in a north-west and south-east direction, and with little intermission to the south-eastern end of the strait ; these narrow the available channel in some parts to 8 or 10 miles. Both shores of the strait are fringed with shallow mud-banks, which on the. Sumatra side extend seaward in some places a distance of 18 miles, but from the Malayan side much less ; these banks, together with tbfbse in the offing, are, as a general rule, steep-to. There are also several detached groups of islands. The western or Sumatra side of the strait is an alluvial plain, generally only a few feet above the level of the sea, and varying in extent from 60 to 1 00 miles from the mountain ranges of Sumatra : the low coast is unbroken by any large bays, but forms near the narrowest part of the strait a range of low islands. The coast is intersected by numerous rivers.f The eastern or Malayan side of the strait is for the most part low and wooded near the coast. A mountain chain traverses the Malay peninsula, and here and there isolated mountains are found within a * See Admiralty chart : Indian Ocean, northern part, No. 7485., also Index chart, f For the general description of Sumatra island, see page 10. U 20665. Wt. 21685. A 2 MALACCA STRAIT. [chap. i. few miles of the coast. This chain diminishes in height as it approaches the equator — many of the peaks north of Queda (lat. 6° N.) rise to an elevation of 6,000 feet, while few in the southern part of the peiiinsula- rise above 3,000 feet. Between the mountains and the coast the surface is undulating, covered with dense primeval forest, or interspersed with grassy plains, which are more numerous and extensive in the north. Many rivers empty_ themselves upon the Malay coast, and in their progress form marshes -and lakes, some of which are of considerable size. The banks of the rivers are generally low and swampy, and covered with mangrove and other thickets. Several of the rivers are broad and mode- rately deep, but all are barred by banks, which, as a general rule, prevent a vessel drawing more than 8 or 9 feet entering. In the northern part numerous islets stud the coast. British Settlements. — Part of the Malay coast is occupied by British settlements, namely. Province Wellesley, a strip of coast about 8 miles broad and 35 miles long, adjacent to Pulo Penang (also a British settlement) : Pulo Paugkor or Binding island and the adjacent coast — commencing at Pulo Katta, this strip is 22 miles long in a northerly direc- tion, and 8 miles broad — and the settlement of Malacca, about 40 miles in length and 25 miles in breadth, included on the sea coast between the rivers Lingey and Moar. In addition, the native states of Perak, Selangor, and Sungi Ujong, which occupy the whole coast line between Province Wellesley and Mail'acca, are under British protection. The ports are all free. For statistics, see pages 119-121. .WINDS and WEATHER, -p Although Malacca strait is within the limits of the north-east and south-west monsoons of the Indian ocean, yet on account of the high land on either side of the strait the winds are variable ; but land and sea breezes are regular on both coasts. In the olfing, the monsoons are only regular when they are at their height in the adjacent seas ; even then, however, the wind is moderate in the strait and only lasts during a part of the day. The monsoons become more regular near Singapore.* South -west Monsoon. — Near Achi head the south-west monsoon commences in the latter part of April or early part of May, and ceases in October ; but in November westerly winds frequently prevail. The south-west monsoon seldom blows far into the strait. In the middle of the strait during this season, variable winds, chiefly those from S.E, and S.W., prevail with long calms. On the Sumatra side light winds and calms prevail, and heavy squalls from the land are experienced during the * ' See the Admiralty Wind and Current charts for the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans, corrected to 1879. CHAP. I.] WINDS AND ■WBATHEE. 3 night. On the Malayan side there are fewer calms and seldom any squalls ; variable winds or land and sea breezes are experienced. Rain.-'— During the S.W. monsoon, the weather is generally clondy and stormy accompanied with rain, especially in July and August, when the monsoon is at its height. * StUUatraS, or squalls from the south-west, are more common during the south-west monsoon than in the north-east monsoon. They generally blow during the first part of the night, are sometimes sudden and severe, and are accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain; they are more frequently met with on the Pedir coast (Sumatra), and on the Malay coast between Parcelar hill and Carimon islands. Here they often blow for six or eight hours at a time as a strong or moderate gale. North.-'WesterS are not so frequently felt as the Sumatras ; they are most common during the south-west monsoon and in the north-western part of the strait between Achi head and Area islands, but sometimes blow through as far as Singapore strait. These winds are sometimes severe at their commencement, but their strength soon abates. They are generally preceded by a black cloud arch, which rises rapidly from the horizon towards the zenith, often allowing not more than sufficient time to reduce sail after its first appearance. They are sometimes accompanied by lightning, thunder, and heavy rain. The North.-east Monsoon prevails in the western entrance of Malacca strait from November to April, which is the fair season, the weather being then more settled ; there are seldom any hard squalls, and there is less thunder, lightning, and rain than in the other season. In November the winds are variable, frequently from N.W. and West, (extending from as far westward as Ceylon,) although occasionally the N.E. winds set in regularly in November. From this period to March the north- east monsoon is strongest, but at times N.W. and West winds of one or two days duration have been experienced in every month when the north-east monsoon should prevail. Late in March the N.E. and northerly winds become light and variable, with strong land breezes at night. On the Malayan side these breezes commence between 8 and 10 p.m., and last four or five hours, sometimes all night .: this is more generally the case between mount Formosa and cape Kachada. There is less calm on the Malayan than on the Sumatra side of the strait. Cyclones. — Malacca strait is free from cyclones, but in the months of April, May, October, and November vessels crossing the Bay of Bengal and Arabian sea are liable to fall in with them. See Eemarks on Revolving Storms, published by the Admiralty, 1883. ' ' CURIIENTS and TIDES-- -In the approach to Malacca strait, between Achi head and Nicobar islands, the current generally runs with A 2 4 MAI/ACCA STRAIT. [chap. I. the wind. This, however, is not always the case, for at times the current is found to run obliquely and even contrary to the wind.* Between the western entrance of Malacca strait and Aroa islands the general set of the current is to the north-west all the year round, but near the Malay coast regular tides mostly prevail, except occasionally during the north-east monsoon, when the current sets to the south-east along the Malay coast. During the south-west monsoon the current runs to the westward along the coast of Pedir, whilst it is setting to the north-eastward between Fulo Rondo and Salang (Junkseylon) island ; at limes, when the monsoon is light, and veers to the westward, the current between Pulo Rondo and Junkseylon sets to the southward. Between Diamond point and the eastern entrance of the strait a tidal influence prevails close inshore. From Aroa islands to Carimon islands regular tides prevail throughout the strait ; the flood sets to the south-east, and the ebb to the north-west, from 2 to 3^ miles an hour ; the ebb running longer and stronger than the flood. Near Aroa islands the flood is often weak, and during neaps there is a constant current setting north-westward. Near cape Rachada, where the strait suddenly becomes narrowed to 20 miles, the tides run strong, and with eddies during springs. In the ofl[ing between Water islands and Carimon islands the tides set fair through the strait, except near Pulo Pisang, when the flood sometimes sets a vessel towards Carimon islands. The flood setting south-eastward past Carimon islands, meets the flood setting from the China sea through Singapore strait, between the north end of Little Carimon and Tree island ; after this junction the flood ^usually sets to the southward through Durian strait, but sometimes to the Jiorthward towards Old Strait. See page 107. In most parts of Malacca strait the streams run from 2 to 3 hours after high and low water by the shore. The greatest rise and fall is 15 feet. GENERAL DIRECTIONS.— The navigation of Malacca strait is, with ordinary caution, not dangerous, the channels are mostly spacious and have good anchorage, but due attention to the set of the currents and tides is requisite. The sailing passage is much facilitated by keeping under -way at night, for steady breezes then often prevail, calms and faint airs being experienced during the day ; passages are thus made without anchoring more than once or twice. The passage to the north-west is generally made in less time than the one to the south-east. Vessels which * In July and August, a south-westerly current rnnniog in the teeth of the monsoon at the rate of one to two knots per hour, between Aehi head and Great Nicobar, has .been reported by several vessels. H.M.S. Rifleman in August 1878, experienced a set of 2 knots an hour, the wind being S.E., and with a force of 2 to 3. ™^^i] GENERAL BIRECTIONS. 5 sail well, will, by taking every ndvantage of the favourable shifts of wind, gain ground during neaps against the tide or current, with a moderate working wind, except in the narrow parts, where the tide runs strong. A stream anchor ready for tidal use will be found convenient in most parts of the strait. DIRECTIONS FOR PROCEEDING EASTWARD. Direct track. — Steam vessels from the westward, in either- monsoon, should first sight Pulo Rondo, 426 feet high, or Pulo Brasse light off Achi head, visible in clear weather about 30 miles ; thence steering to pass between Diamond point and Pulo Pera. (Pulo Pera is an islet 394 feet high, steep to, and lies directly in the fairway of vessels coming from the northward, and is often the first land seen by those entering the strait in the thick weather of the south-west monsoon period.) From Pulo Pera, course should be steered for Pulo Jarra, distant 125 miles, also high aud steep-to ; thence to pass midway between Aroa islands, and North Sands and One-fathom bank, a further distance of about 65 miles. Having passed One-fathom bank, vessels should approach the coast in the vicinity of Parcelar hill to a distance of 6 or 7 miles, to depths of 17 to 20 fathoms. When abreast of the hill steer to pass 5 miles outside cape Rachada, which in the distance appears like an island. Cape Rachada light is visible 26 miles, and should be approached between the bearings of E. ^ S. and. S.E. by E. J E. From cape Rachada steer to pass 4 or 5 miles outside Pulo- TJndan light, visible 20 miles, on the outer Water island, and in soundings of 20 to 26 fathoms ; this course will lead 7 miles north-eastward of Raleigh shoal, and about 10 miles north-eastward of Rob Roy bank. From Water islands steer to pass 5 miles outside Formosa bank light vessel, between Long and Fair channel banks ; thence 5 miles outside Pulo Pisang light and through Singapore strait, passing northward of Tree island. See p. 107^. S.W. MOUSOOU. — Sailing vessels from Ceylon during the south-west monsoon should steer so as to pass between Pulo Rondo and the south end of Great Nicobar island, carefully taking every opportunity of verifying their position, as the currents during this season are strong and uncertain. Vessels set to the southward, which is not an uncommon occurrence when there is much westing in the monsoon, may pass between Achi islands, by one of the passages herein-after mentioned, but with a steady and commanding breeze Bengal passage is the best. Vessels bound to Achi should in this season keep well to the southward to make Achi head, thence proceeding through Surat, or Cedar passage {see page 14). When to the eastward of Pulo Wai the monsoon will most likely fail,, but vessels should endeavour, by the aid of the variable winds, to sight 6 MALACCA STRAIT. [chap. i. Pulo Butofig and then keep, on the Malayan side of the channel, where, as already stated,, a tidal influence prevails, and where there is less calm, but generally variable winds, or land and sea breezes. Sometimes a brisk westerly wind will be carried as far as Penang. When once the islands on the Malay coast are sighted there will be no difficulty in getting to the south- eastward. In the entrance of Malacca strait near the Nicobar and Achi islands, and between them and Salang (Junkseylon), there are often strong and noisy ripplings, particularly in the south-west monsoon. These ripplings occur when there is no perceptible current, and in calm weather are seen approaching from a considerable distance ; in the night their noise gives warning of their approach ; the spray sometimes breaks on a vessel's deck. After passing from 10 to 20 miles westward of Pulo Butong, and not being bound to Penang, a course should be steered to pass nearly midway between Sambilang islands and Pulo Jarra. With a working wind the west side of Penang may be approached to soundings of 10 or 12 fathoms ; Great Kra flat and the bank which skirts the coast to Pulo Binding, and extends Seaward 10 or 12 miles, may be approached to the same depths, guarding against the indraft of the rivers on the flood tide when near the bank. Under 15 fathoms the water shoals rapidly to the edge of the bank. Sambilang islands and Pulo Jarra have deep water within a short distance^ and may be seen from a distance of 20 miles. In this track soundings of 28 to 34 fathoms will have been found. After passing Sambilang islands vessels should make for the North Sands and steer a course to pass 5 or 6 miles to the westward of the north extreme; the soundings will then decrease from 28 or 30 fathoms to 10 or 15 fathoms. In this depth during daylight, Aroa islands will probably be sighted. Round Aroa island, having trees on its summit, may be seen a distance of 15 miles, when, guided by the bearing of these islands and the soundings, the vessel may pass along the west side of the sands until One-fathom bank lighthouse be sighted, when course should be shaped to pass 2 miles westward of it. When the winds incline from Bast or E.S.E., keep near the Malay coast in from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 25 or 30 miles past Sambilang islands, then steer more southerly to get soundings of 16 or 18 fathoms on the north-west edge of North Sands ; keep in these soundings, rounding the edge to the south-west until Aroa islands and Parcelar hiU are sighted ; from the mast- head both may be seen when on the north-west edge of North Sands. Working to the eastward in the north-west west part of Malacca strait, requires no special directions, (beyond those referred to in the sailing passage during south-west monsoon, namely, to make for the Malay coast and work along it), the strait being wide and clear, until the North sands «HAi"i] GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 7 and Aroa islands are approached, and which are situated about 130 miles southward of Penang. When approaehiug the North Sands it is advisable to keep near their western edge, making short tacks and approaching the Sands to 10 or 11 fathoms. One-fathom bank light, which is visible 13 miles, may be brought to bear as far southward as S.E. by S., until within a distance of 4 miles, when this bearing is no lohger available, as One-fathom bank with its outlying' shoal-head of 4^ fathoms extends S-^ mUes north- west of the light. By keeping near the edge of the sands more moderate depths will be found for anchoring, and more regular tides ; to the west- ward a north-westerly current often prevails, especially during neaps. On the North Sands, during springs, the flood sets S.E. and the ebb N.W. at the rate of 3 to 3-^ miles an hour, and run two or three hours after the times of high and low water. During neaps the tides are weak and irregular. Caution is requisite in navigating this part. Vessels drawing less than 20 feet may work across the sands which lie between Blenheim shoal and One-fathom bank, by keeping Parcelar hill between the bearings of E.S.E. and E. f 3., bearing in mind when near Blenheim shoal that the clearing mark is 30 miles distant. When to windward of One-fathom bank, vessels should stand over to the Malay coast, which in the neighbourhood of Parcelar hill may be approached to one or two miles, guarding against the indraught into Klang strait on the ebb ; thence working down the coast and not standing farther off than 10 miles in order to give a berth to South Sands which ai-e steep-to. North- eastward of Bambek shoal the shore may also be approached to one or 2 miles. Cape Rachada light, kept between the bearings of S.E. by E. ^ E. and E. ^ S. will lead clear of Bambek and Pyramid shoals. After passing Water island and Kob Koy bank there may be said to be no danger in the channel, until Formosa bank, marked by a light vessel,' is approached. Vessels may stand safely over towards the Sumatra shore to a distance of 15 or 16 miles from the Malay coast ; by keeping thq lead going, sufScient warning is given of approach to the mud-flat skirting the Malay coast. Pulo Benkalis is low and woodyj and near Tanjong Parit, its north-east point, may be approached to 4 or 5 miles, the lead being here also, a sufficient guide when to tack. Abreast Long bank the channel for large vessels is narrowed to 1 1 miles. If Pulo Pisang be seen, keep it between the bearings of E. by S. and S.E. by E. 5 E. In standing towards the Malay coftst, the soundings on Fair-channel bank are a good guide, and on a nearer approach to Pulo Pisang, vessels may, guided by the soundings on the ridges, stand farther oyer towards the Sumatra shore. From Pulo Pisang to Tanjong Bulus the channel is comparatively clear, and guided by the soundings vessels may safely approach either side, taking care to avoid the spit, extending 8 MAIiACCA STRAIT. [chap, l 6 miles south-east of Pulo Pisang, and which is steep-to. The mud bank between Pulo Cocob and Tanjong Bulus, entrance to Singapore strait, is also steep-to, and the shore should not be approached within 2^ milesj or to a less depth than 17 fathoms. Directions continited on page 108. N.E. Monsoon. — Sailing vessels from Ceylon are recom- mended to pass close to the south end of Great Nicobar island if the wind permit. Those from Madras should pass through Sombrero channel (Nicobar islands). When within the strait they should endeavour to get near the Malay coast as soon as possible, where there are tidal streams and more favourable winds. If necessary to work through, proceed as before directed. A heavy swell rolls on the Sumatra coast during the N.E. monsoon. DIRECTIONS FOE PROCEEDING WESTWARD. Steam vessels proceeding westward through Malacca strait, in either monsoon, should take the direct track, (see page 5) reversed ; and when clear of the strait full powered vessels may make straight for the desired port. Small powered steam vessels bound to Aden during the south-west monsoon will find it their interest to gain the equator as early as possible, without too great sacrifice of westing; say on a S.W. course, which course should be continued until in latitude 1° S. Then steer W. by S. to cross the meridian of long. 80° E. on the parallel of 3° S. From this position steer West until the long, of 60° E. be reached ; then steer to cross the equator in about 56 E°., and proceed for Ras Haf un, the east point of Africa- By keeping to the southward of the equator the strength of the current is lessened, and the vessel will pass through a large extent of calm. By recrossing the equator so far west the vessel will be in a favourable position to avail herself of both wind and current in entering the bad weather of the south-west monsoon.* S.W. Monsoon. — Sailing vessels bound westward through Malacca strait during the south-west monsoon should, with a favourable wind, keep a mid-channel course until Aroa islands are passed, they should then keep a good offing from the Sumatra shore in order to avail themselves of the prevailing north-westerly current and to be out o£ the tidal influence eastward of Diamond point. From Diamond point to Achi head, the Pedir coast (north-coast of Sumatra) should be approached * See Wind and Current charts for the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans, published by the Admiralty, corrected to 1879. See also p. 222 for proceeding to Red Sea from Sunda strait. CHAP. I.] GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 9 in order to benefit by the westerly current adjacent to it. Steer through Bengal passage, keeping close to the north-east side of Pulo Brasse. From a good berth olF Auhi islands, vessels must endeavour to cross the equator and pass into the region of the south-east trade wind, a westerly course should then be pursued until on the meridian of the intended port, then a north course may be followed, making the land to the westward of Point de Galle, if bound there, for strong westerly winds and easterly currents prevail along the south coast of Ceylon during the south-west monsoon. If bound to Aden continue in the south-east trade, passing north-eastward of the Seychelles ; thence to Ras Asir. Some vessels have made the passage from Achi head to Madras in four- teen or fifteen days during the strength of the south-M'est monsoon, by taking advantage of every favourable change of wind to obtain westing, and tacking as most convenient. This passage, however, may sometimes be found impracticable by those which sail indifferently by the wind. N.£i. Monsoon. — Vessels bound westward through Malacca strait during the N.E. monsoon usually experience favourable weather and a fair wind. They may pass on either side of Pulo Pera and borrow towards Pulo Rondo or towards the south end of Great Nicobar island as convenient. If bound to Point de Galle the land should be made to the northward of Little Basses. If bound to Madras, or other part of the Coromandel coast, vessels should keep the Malay coast and its adjacent islands until Salang (Junkseylon) island is reached, which may be rounded at a convenient distance. Thence, if early in the season, a course should be steered to pass through Ten-degree channel, between Car-Nicobar and Little Andaman islands, or the Sombrero channel may be chosen at discretion if not bound to the northward of Madras. In December and January care must be taken to make the land a little to the northward of the intended port. Caution when approaching Ras Aslr. — As many large and valuable vessels have from time to time been wrecked with loss of life on the coast southward of Ras Asir (cape Guardafui), when bound round this headland from the south-eastward ; seamen should use the utmost caution not only in making the land, but also in verifying the vessel's position by soundings, more especially at night or during the south-west monsoon, when the weather is hazy. As soundings extend from 10 to 12 miles from the coast, the deep-sea lead should frequently be used, and the vessel's course altered to N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., or if necessary more to the eastward, immediately soundings are struck, or the land sighted in dark or hazy weather. By steering to the northward as above, and by not standing into less than 35 fathoms water, the vessel's safety will be ensured, and as the water rapidly 10 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. r. deepens northward of the parallel of the cape, the 100 fathoms lijie of soundings being only 2^ miles from it, there will be no difficulty as to the time when the course should be again altered to W.N.W. : During day a gradual change will probably be seen in the colour of the water from blue to dark green. Attention should also be paid to the alteration in the direction of the swell caused by the promontory of Eas Hafiin 5 the water gets smoother and the swell alters . its direction to the eastwaifd of south, when the meridian of that cape is passed. During the south-west monsoon; the current sets up the coast strqng to the northward and close round the cape to the westward ; but at a short distance off shore, the current continues its course to the northward and eastward. These directions derived from experience extending over many years — cannot be too earnestly recommended to seamen.* SUMATRA COAST.t SUMATRA ISLAND.— General Description.— Sumatra was first visited in 1509 by the Portuguese ;, by the Dutch in 1600 ; and by the British two years afterwards. The latter continued to establish factories and form settlements in the island during the l7th century. These settlements were retained by the British until 1825, when they were ceded to the Dutch in exchange for Malacca. Sumatra is about 960 miles long in a north-west and south-east direction, and its greatest breadth is about 220 miles. Its area is about 128,000 square miles; thus it is the largest of the islands of the Malay archipelago except Borneo, and is about three times the size of Java. The equator passes nearly through the centre of the island. A chain of mountains extends the whole length of Sumatra, the ranges being in many parts, double and treble, but in general situated much nearer to the western than to the eastern coast. Some of the mountains rise to the height of 10,000 and 11,000 feet above the level of the sea; of these, five situated near the centre of the island, are volcanic. The great alluvial plain on the eastern side of the island, generally only a few feet above the level of the sea, is 600 miles in length and from 60 to 1 10 miles in width : this, with the rare exception of a few patches on the river banks, and usually beyond the reach of the tide, is covered with stupen- dous forest of primeval origin. The south-eastern extremity of the island is little better than a forest of mangrove growing out of a morass. The * Directions for approaching this part of the coast of Aftiea, will be found in Gulf of Aden Pilot, and Africa Pilot, Part III. t See Admiralty chart : — Achl (Acheen) head to Diamond point, No. 219; scatei m = ' 2 of an inch. CHAP. I.] GENERAL DESCRIPTION. — PRODTIOTS. 11 greater part of the island is a sterile' or'iiAractable wilderness, and con- sidering its size the country is thinly* populated. The priniapal rivers of Sumatra are those on' its eastern side. On the western coast there are many small rivers, but the Only considerable stream is the Singkel. All the Sumatran rivers have bars of mud or sand at their mouths, which forbid their navigation by vessels of much draWght, and the greater number of the rivers on the eastern coast are subject to the bore or tidal wave. The finest rivers of Sumatra are those of Siak and Palembang, on the east coast ; these are navigable by vessels of considerable draught. TllG Population of Sumatra, estimated at two and a half millions, consists of fifteen different nations speaking as many difFerent languages. Six of these nations have made some progress in civilization, being possessed of the art of writing and of some of the mechanical arts. These are the Malays, the conquerors of the island, estimated at 900,000 ; the Achinese, at the north end of the island, 450,000 ; the Battahs, or Batak, 300,000; the Palembangs, 200,000; the Kejang, 70,000; and the Sarawi, 160,000; others, chiefly those living in the mountainous regions of the island, are but little removed from the savage state. The north end of the island belongs to the ISajah of Achi, the Batak nation next to the south- eastwai:d, then the Siak state. The most civilized of the populations are of the Mahomedan religion. The -villages are invariably built on the banks of some river or lake, and consist of houses built chiefly of bamboo raised oS the ground. On the west side of the island the Dutch territories- are divided into the Eesidentie van Tapanuli, the country of the Battahs, extending from 30 miles S.E. of Singkel to 18 miles southward of Natal, the residence of the governor being at Siboga in Tapanuli bay ; the Eesidentie van Padang, extending fi'om the above to lat. 2° 29' S., the chief place of the Dutch possessions being Padang, inlat, Q°48' S. ; and the territojpy round Benkulen, the resident of which occupies fort Marlborough. ,; The Climate is very unhealthy. The ^rindipal scourge is tropical fever; which never ceases to work havoc among Europeans and natives alike ; the attacks are sudden, lasting about a week, and sometimes fatal. Outbreaks of cholera occur at times, as in all other places in the East. It is necessary therefore to use every precaution to preserve the health of the crew, should any stay be made on the coast. Landing, or sleeping on shore, or on deck at night, should be avoided. The water from ponds or wells near the shore is very bad, and running water should be procured if possible. Produce. — Buffaloed are the most important live stock. The breed of horses is small, but well-made and hardy. Sheep also are small. The hog and goat arc both domestic and wild. Elephants, and many species of 12 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. [chap. i. deer abound. Tigers, rhinoceroses, hippopotami, ourang-outangs, and bears are met with, besides other animals in great variety. Sumatra has been in all ages famous for gold, which with copper, iron, sulphur, saltpetre, coal of indiflfercnt quality, and naphtha appear to be the chief mineral products. Among the vegetable products the most important is pepper, the average product of which in 1883, amounted to 122,000 piculs (of 133^ lbs.) ; the principal pepper ports being on the west coast. The camphor tree grows in the north-west of Sumatra, but not south of the parallel of 3° K Eice is the chief species of grain grown. Sago is common in Sumatra, and is occasionally used as food, though not an article of general use ; millet is cultivated in small quantities. The cocoa-nut, betel, bamboo, sugar cane, various palms, and an abundance of tropical fruits, are indigenous. Batan producing dragons blood is peculiar to Sumatra. The articles of expoi-t are coral, pepper, rice, camphor, and other native products. The imports are chiefly Indian piece goods, salt, silks, opium, coarse porcelain, gold thread, striped cottons, weapons, metals, hardware, autlery, and broad cloth. PULO RONDO, or Tepurong, is the northernmost of the islands lying off Achi head, the north-west point of Sumatra, distant about 30 miles. The islaud is 426 feet high, dark-coloured, 2 cables in diameter, and steep-to ; rocky islets from 60 to 120 feet high, extend to the distance of one mile from its south side. PULO BRASSE, north-west end, lying 20 miles S. by W. ^ W. from Pulo Rondo, is the westernmost of the islands ofp Achi head; it is 9J miles long in a north-west and south-east direction, high and level. Off the north end are four rocky islets, the northern (N.W. islet) is 25 feet high and about 3^ miles distant, with soundings of 25 to 28 fathoms within one mile. The other islets lie within 1^ miles of Pulo Erasse, and the sea breaks heavily on them even in moderate weather. There is a passage between the N.W. islet and the' three inner islets, but vessels are recom- mended to pass outside. Soundings of 15 to 20 fathoms, sand, will be found within one mile of the north-east and south sides of Pulo Brasse, where vessels may occa- sionally anchor. PleurS rock, a small rock having a depth of about 6 feet, lies about 1^ miles from the west point of Pulo Brasse, and nearly in line with two small rocks above water off the north point of that island. The water in the vicinity of the rock is discoloured, and breaks when there is any wind. LIGHTS. — On the north-east point of Pulo Brasse stands a tower, 120 feet high, which is painted white to a height of 98 feet and red the remainder ; from the tower is exhibited at an elevation of 525 feet above GHAP.i.] PULO RONDO. — ^PULO NANCY. 13 the level of the sea a revolving white light which attains its greatest brilliancy evert/ minute ; the light is visible between the bearings of E. \ N. (through south and west) and N.W. \ W., and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 30 miles ; within a distance of 12 miles a faint continuous light is seen. North-eastward of Pulo Wai the light is obscured by that island. From the same tower, at a height of 26 feet above the ground, and 430 feet above the sea, is exhibited & fixed red light visible between the bearings of S. by E. \ E. and E. by F. \ N., or over N.W. islet ; the light is intended to warn vessels of their approach to this islet, and in clear weather is visible from a distance of 8 to 12 miles. The lighthouse is considered to be in lat. 5° 45' N., long. 95° A\' E. Iienxbalei bay, on the north-east side of Pulo Brasse, is about 1^ miles broad, half a mile deep, and has 19 fathoms water in the entrance, thence shoaling gradually to the shore. There is anchorage in the north- west part in 9 fathoms, 3 cables distant from the village.* Coal may be obtained here from the Dutch Government depot. It is brought alongside in lighters. During the N.E. monsoon a heavy sea sometimes sets into the bay, which renders it doubtful as to the time a vessel may have to wait to fill up with coal. PULO NANCI (Nassie), nearly joins the south-east point of Pulo Brasse, being separated by a narrow rocky channel of irregular depth, and in which the tides run with great strength. Pulo Nanci is saddle-shaped, and about 4 miles long north and south. About one mile S.S.W. from the south-west point is a rock which breaks at half tide, and between the rock and the shore there are depths of 10 to 12 fathoms, out- side there is 16 fathoms. From the rock the south extreme of Middle island is in line with the northern of the small islets south of Middle island, bearing W.N.W. About 2^ miles eastward of this rock and about half-a-mile off shore is a rock of 3 feet depth, with 6 and 8 fathoms close-to. From this rock, the south extreme of the islet off the west end of Stony islet is in line with a red mark in the clifE near King point. The south-east point of Pulo Nanci is skirted by rocks. There is anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms in the bay on the south side of Pulo Nanci island, about one mile eastward of the west point. Fresh water and firewood may be procured on the west side of the bay. Hots bay, on the north-east side of Pulo Nanci, is about 4 cables broad and 4 cables deep. Off the south point of the bay is Rots island, small and nearly circular. There is anchorage in Rots bay in 6 fathoms at 3 cables from the shore.* * See plan on Admiralty chart, No. 219 ; scale, m = 3 inches. 14 MALACCA STB AIT. -^SUMATBA COAST. [ohap. i. Middle island, or Pulo Nassie Keobil, lies off the south side of Pnlo Brasse, between the latter and PuloNanci; off the south side: of Middle, isla,ndj one mile distant, is a group of small islets, with from 9 to 12 fathoms water between them and Pulo Nanci. Pulo Gomez (Klappa) is about 2 miles in length, and lies between Cedar and Surat passages. Its western point is low, and breakers extend about half-a-mile to the westward of it. The south side of Pulo Gomez is safe to approach. CEDAR PASSAGE (Sawang Harus Besar) is formed between Pulo Nanci island on the north, and Pulo Gomez and Stony island on the south. The channel which lies to the southward of the rocks off Pulo Nanci is about one mile wide at its narrowest part, and has from 15 to 20 fathoms water. Cedar passage is much wider than Surat passage, more free from eddies, and safer for a vessel proceeding to the westward with a foul wind, as she can drift with the tide under sail, taking care to avoid the rocks off Pulo Nanci. Stony island may be approached on its north-west side to within a quarter of a cable. -A- patch, of 4| fathoms lie midway between Stony island and Pulo Gomez.* SURAT PASSAGE (Sawang Harus Kechil) is formed by Pulo Gomez ("Klappa), Stony island, and Pulo Angkasa on the north-west, and the promontory of Achi on the south-east. Between Pulo Angkasa and Achi head at the eastern end, the passage is only 150 yards wide, but has from 12 to 14 fathoms water. Between Pulo Gomez and the mainland the passage is 1^ miles, wide with 12 to 16 fathoms water. Near the east side of Pulo Gomez there is a rock one cable distant from the shore.f Directions. — In approaching Surat passage from the south-west no opening is perceived, the adjacent islands Gomez, Nanci, and Brasse appearing to join the mainland when seen from that direction. South- eastward of King point, at the distance of 5 miles, and on the south side of a low green point there is a sandy bay, named Elrang Baba, which at a considerable distance may be mistaken for Surat passage, the adjacent land being low near the sea, and covered with trees. * The rocky patch of 4 fathoms formerly shown on the charts, W. by S. distant 8 miles from the west end of Pulo Gomez island, and the naiTow ridge of soundings of 7 to io fathoms (and possibly less), reported to extend 40 miles in a S. by E. f E. direc- tion from it, are said not to exist. t See also plan of Surat passage on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 (^similar to that on chart No. 219). CHAP. I.] CEBAR, SURAT, AND BENGAL PASSAGES. 15 Steering for Swrat passage, vessels should keep nearer to Achi head than to the opposite side of the .channel, as Achi head is bold, with regular soundings of 12 to 14 fathonis, sand, at a moderate distance, and temporary anchorage may be found near the shore in from 7 to 10 fathoms. The south side of Pulo Gomez island is also safe to appi'oach, there being 18 fathoms within half a mile of its south point. If the tide be unfavourable the vessel should anchor near Achi head until the flood stream makes; the flood sets north-eastward directly through the passage, the ebb in the opposite direction at the rate of 5 to 7 miles an hour at springs iu the narrowest part of the passage ; the eddies caused by the rapid tides render steering in this part very difficult for sailing vessels during light winds, and for large vessels is attended with some risk. PULO W^AI, the north-easternmost and largest of the islands off Achi head, lies about 13 miles north-east of the head and 10 miles south- east of Pulo Eondo. Pulo Wai is about 1 1 miles long, from 2 to 6 miles broad, and high and mountainous ; the summit being 1,360 feet above the sea may be seen from a distance of 36 miles in clear weather. Its south side is steep-to in most places, there being no change in colour from the deep ocean blue of the water at 2 cables from the shore, but at other parts of the south side there are soundings near the shore. Berdnri rock, dry at low water, lies about half a mile distant from the south point, with a depth of 13 fathoms in the channel between; vessels should pass outside the rock. In Balbhan bay, about one inile deep on the south-east side of the island, there are depths from 20 to 60 fathoms, sand, where possibly anchorage may be obtained. Fresh water may be procured at the head of the bay near a sandy beach. There is a sulphur mine in the vicinity. Coal. — In Prialaut bay on the north side of the island, there is a land- locked harbour, with anchorage in 12 fathoms. It is proposed to establish a coaling station there.* Pulo Wai is under cultivation, and there are said to be 300 or ' 400 inhabitants on the island. Bengal Passage, formed between Pulo Brasse and Pulo Wai, is about 11 miles wide, and convenient for vessels sailing from 'Achi head to the north-westward, as the cuiTcnt geiieraUy sets out in that direction, but vessels bound into Achi road seldom proceed through Bengal passage unless with a steady commanding breeze, there being no anchorage in the passage except near Pulo Brasse. During the south-west monsoon the current sets round Pulo Brasse to the westward frequently at the rate of one to 2 miles an hour. * Navigating Lieutenant Pritehard, H.M.S. Fly, 1883. 16 MAXACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. ACHI (ACHEEN) HEAD is a bluffpromontory, 1,675 feet high, forming the north-wesf extremity of Sumatra. At a considerable distance Achi head appears like a steep hill, Pulo Gomez then resembles two paps, its western point being very low. King point (Djong Kajah) is the south-west extremity of the promontory of Achi head, and lies about 3 miles to the south-west of the head. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at lOh. ; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3^ feet. ACHI (ACHEEN) BAY and RIVER.— Achi bay is formed between the eastern part of Achi head and the entrance of Achi river. The shores are low and wooded and skirted by a bank on which depths of 5 fathoms are found at about 5 cables from the shore. In the western part of the bay is Pulo Tuan, a small island joined to Achi head by a rocky ridge 6 cables long.* It is contemplated to connect Pulo Tuan with the shore, by a causeway, to form a harbour for OMhleh. Achi river falls into the sea by several mouths, separating the low country into islands, which are inundated during the rainy season. The principal moutli, situated about 5 miles to the eastward of Achi head, is about 100 yards wide, and has a depth of one foot on the bar at low water, and 6 feet at high water. There is a pyramid beacon on the west point of entrance to the river, and a remarkable tree on the shore at 1^ miles eastward of the flagstaff at Olehleh. Anchoraige. — ^The usual anchorage, is off the town of Olehleh, in from 4^ to 5 fathoms, at about half a mile off shore. The holding ground is bad. The anchorage off Achi river is in from 7 to 9 fathoms, with the entrance bearing from S. ^ E. to S.S.E., distant one mile. Duting the south-west monsoon, which prevails from May to October, a good scope of cable is necessary in these anchorages as the squalls are severe. During the north-east monsoon the winds are seldom strong, but N.W. winds some- times blow with great force through Bengal passage, and render the anchorage insecure. Land and sea breezes often blow during both seasons, but the land breezes do not extend beyond the islands. The bay is infested with sharks. Towns. — Kotta Rajah, the Dutch capital of Achi, is situated on both banks of Achi river, and connected by a wooden bridge, situated about 3 miles from the entrance. The Dutch governor resides here. ♦ See plan of Achi bay and river on Admiralty chart No. 219 ; scale, m=2 inches. CHAP.!.] A.OHI HEAD. — MALACCA PASSAGE. 17 Olehleh., situated on the shore of Achi bay, is connected with Kotta Rajah by a railway 3^ miles in length, and which further extends to Lam-; baru, the Dutch advance post 3 miles beyond Kotta Rajah. The British consul resides at Olehleh. There are three landing piers. Supplies. — Fresh beef, poultry, vegetables, bread and water, are to be obtained, and fruit when in season. Coal. — There is no coal at Olehleh, but it may be obtained from the Government depot at Lembalei bay, Pulo Brasse, about 15 miles distant, where it is brought alongside in lighters. Trade. — The exports are pepper, betel nuts, gutta percha and other gums, rattans, and cocoa-nuts. The imports are cattle (from India), haber- dashery, and all descriptions of provisions. Most of the exports and imports on the north coast are collected and distributed at Olehleh. In 1883, the exports, principally pepper and betel nuts, amounted to 31,000/. ; the imports to 265,000/., a large portion of the latter being for the Dutch troops stationed there. For the northern ports of Achi ; the exports and imports lor Segll (about 50 miles eastward of Olehleh) were 45,000/. and 54,000/. ; Sala- manga, 5,600/. and 13,fX)0/.; and Telok Samoi, 35,000/. and 35,000/.; conducted principally by schooners. Shipping. — In 1884, 189 Dutch steamers visited Olehleh, and 14 Englisli ; :I9 sailing vessels also entered and cleared. In 1883, the number of English steamers was 130; the falling off being caused by an order to convey all Government goods in Dutch vessels. A monthly steamer has taken the place of the former weekly one to Penang. MALACCA PASSAGE formed between Pulo Wai and the Sumatra coast, is 7 miles broad, and the best channel when approaching Achi from the northward. Pulo Buru (Malor island) is situated in Malacca passage at about 2^ miles from the Sumatra coast. The islet is fringed by a reef to the distance of about 3 cables, beyond which there are no dangers. Light. — A fixed white light is exhibited on Pulo Buru from an iron standard, 62 feet above high water, visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. The PEDIR COAST extends from Pedro point in a general E. by S. direction for about 120 miles to Diamond point, its eastern boundary. This coast is low in several places close to the sea, but the country a little inland is all very high. During the months of December, February, and part of March, the. weather is generally fine, with little or no rain, the winds varying from N.E. to E.S.E. and S.E., and the thermometer ranging from 79° to 82°. tr 20663. ji 18 MAIACOA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. It may be generally remarked during this season that if the canoes are not seen out fishing before 7 or 8 a.m. that a fresh breeze may be expected during the day. Supplies. — The villages along the coast are small, generally con- taining sixty to eighty huts, which are constructed of bamboos and mats The men are mostly well dressed, and carry a knife, or kris, in their waist. They are not to be trusted much if any temptation be in the way. Great numbers of the natives go out daily to fish, and the entrances to the dif- ferent creeks leading to the villages, which are not perceptible from the anchorage, may be found by observing the canoes enter on their return from fishing. On this part of the coast, supplies, such as fowls, eggs, and fruit, are scarce, but goats may be procured. Large herds of cattle may be seen grazing on the plain, but the natives have an objection fo part with them. "Water. — Fresh water may be procured in most of the creeks between Sawang, Enjung creek, and Telok Samoi, but to the westward of Sawang the creeks are all salt water. Pedro Point (Tanjong Batu), the north point of Sumatra, is situated 13 miles E.N.E. from Achi head, and may be approached to a depth of 9 or 1 fathoms at the distance of one mile. The point is low, terminating in a green slope with a few trees, and is fringed by a rocky shoal which extends a quarter of a mile seaward. A bluff formed by high land is situated 1^ miles westward of Pedro point. The bottom in this vicinity is rocky, and the soundings do not extend more than 1^ or 2 miles from the shore. A reef with a depth of 2| fathoms, lies half a mile off the shore, west- ward of Krang Rajah bay, at 3^ miles eastward of Pedro point. Tanjong Batu Putih, or White cliff, lies 12 miles eastward of Pedro point, and may be known by a tree and a ruin near its extremity ; it is conspicuous when seen from the eastward. Between Pedro point and Tanjong Batu Putih is formed Krang Bajah or Deep Water bay, at the bottom of which is Rajah village, with depth of 20 fathoms within a quarter of a mile from the shore. Batu Pedir, situated 18 miles eastward of Tanjong Batu Putih, may be known by some bushy trees on its summit and by Golden mountain which bears from the point W. by S. ^ S. DIRECTIONS. — In sailing from Achi along this part of the coast a vessel should keep near the shore, as in most parts anchorage may, if necessary, be found, and there is seldom any hidden danger more than half a mile from the shore. Also the bank of soundings is steep-to, with westerly and variable currents outside its limits, and calms are more pre- valent in the offing than when the vessel is in soundings. Every advantage CHAP. I.] PEDIR COAST. — EN JUNG CREEK. 19 should be taken of the land wind which sets iu about 8 or 9 p.m. and con- tinues through the night. Batu Pedir may be approached to a depth of 10 fathoms at the distance of half a mile. The tides near the shore are" regular, but not very strong. Golden mountain (Ya Mura), W. by S. i S. 14 miles from Batu Pedir, is a regular cone 5,663 feet high. The smaller mountain about 5 miles to the eastward of Golden mountain, is the Orphan (Ya Muree), or mount Pedir, having green sides and darkly-wooded summit. The surrounding • country appears well cultiviitecl. These two mountains are useful landmarks. Golden mountain has been seen at a distance of 88 miles. Batu. Creok. — From Batu Pedir the coast trends south-eastward to Batu creek, 4 miles distant, off which the depth is only 2 fathoms, at half a mile distant. Bungala creek lies 6 miles eastward of Batu creek, and may be known by a few tall casuarina trees near its entrance. Pedir creek is situated 8 miles south-eastward of Batu Pedir. The entrance dries at low water, and is not easily discovered, but it m.ay be found by steering from the eastward towards mount Pedir until a large village, which is 2 miles south-east of the creek, is seen in a gap in the trees which line the coast. Prom the entrance the creek winds for a mile and a half, when it becomes so narrow that there is hardly room for a boat. About a quarter of a mile further up is a village and an old Portuguese fort.* The exports of Pedir are betel -nut and pepper. There is good anchorage near the coast in the neighbourhood of Pedir creek at about one mile from the shore. Burong creek. — The entrance of this creek, which is situated 4 miles to the south-east of Pedir creek, may be known by a flagstaff in the centre of the village. The creek is very narrow, and the bar at its entrance is passable by boats at high water only. Burong has become a chief place for trade on this coast, and much frequented by vessels from the Coromandel coast. Two and a half miles south-eastward of Burong creek is Ayer-Labu creek. Enjung creek. — The entrance to this creek is situated 17 miles south-eastward of Batu Pedir, and may be known by two groves of cocoa- nut trees situated near the entrance. The .bar hag a depth of 4 feet at low water, the bottom seaward deepening gradually to 10 or 12 fathoms at half a mile offshore. A long spit extends from the north point of the entrance and dries at half ebb. The rise and fall of tide is 7 feet. * Navigating Lieutenant F. J. Gray, H.M.S. Nassam, 18?8. B 2 20 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. Sawang village, consisting of 200 houses, is situated nearly 2 miles fi'om the bar of the creek, and like other Malay villages is built in a swamp. Small supplies of provisions may be procured. Merdu point, lying 23 miles east-south-eastward of Batu Pedir, iS low and sandy with a few small trees ; a run of water, resembling when at a distance a path in the valley, is conspicuous during the rainy season. A grove of trees is situate 1| miles to the westward of the point. Merdu village is half a mile from the sea on the banks of a small river. The anchorage off Merdu is in 18 fathoms at one mil6 from the shore, with the village bearing South. The water shoals suddenly from 10 to 2 fathoms. Samalaugan creek is situated 7^ miles eastward of Merdu point. The entrance cannot be distinguished from the sea, but it lies 1| miles' westward of two large trees which are near the beach. On either side of the entrance there is a small fort. ' The anchorage off Samalangan is in 12 to 15 fathoms at one mile off shore, with Merdu point bearing W. by N. ^ N., and Rajah point E. J N. Rajah, point having a high grove of trees near its extremity, forms with Merdu point a bight, which off Samalangan creek is If iniles deep, and has a depth of 24 fathoms decreasing gradually towards the shore. Rajah point may be approached to a depth of 10 fathoms. Banks. — At 2^ miles east of Rajah point, is a rocky patch of 6 fathoms, about 1^ miles offshore; also at 7 miles east of the point, between Pedada and Jimpa creeks, at 1-^ miles off shore, is another patch of 6 fathoms, shoaling quickly towards the shore. On the north side, these banks are steep-to. Elephant mountain or Friar's hood, distant 15J miles S.E. ^ S. from Rajah point, is an isolated and conspicuous landmark, visible nearly 40 miles in clear weather. Fassangan point, situated 22 miles eastward of Rajah point, is low and sandy, with a few cocoa-nut trees near its extreme. Between Rajah and Passangan points the shore may be approached to a depth of 14 fathoms. Passangan point is steep, there being 30 fathoms within half a mile of the beach. There are two entrances to Passangan creek ; the principal one is situated 4 miles westward of the point, the other half a mile eastward of the point ; both entrances are passable by boats at high water only. Five miles eastward of Passangan point there is a high square grove of trees situated near the entrance of Klumpang Dua creek. Goma-Goma or Agun-Agun point lies 9 miles eastward of •Passangan point, the coast between forming a bight. Goma-Goma point is low with a little jungle, and vessels should not shoal less than 14 or CHAP. I.] MERDU POINT. — TELOK SAMOI. 21 12 fathoms in approaching it. A reef with patches of 6 feet oxteuds one mile VV. by N. f N., with a depth of 4 fathoms close to its edge. At about 2i miles eastward of Goma-Goma point a belt of high casuarina trees commences and continues nearly as far as Telok Samoi, which is distant 13 miles from Goma-Goma point. KraUg Guku is a village near a creek situated 5 miles to the east- ward of Goma-Goma point. There is good anchorage westward of the village in 10 fathoms, mud, and deptlis of '!• fathoms close to the breakers. TELOK SAMOI is situated in a bay about 20 miles to the. west- ward of Diamond point and contains about sixty huts, and a mud fort having a few old guns.* The village in which the Rajah's flag is hoisted is on the south side of Telok Samoi creek, the entrance of which is dry at low water. Telok Samoi may easily be recognised after a first visit by a remarkable ridge of hills at about 2 miles West of the village, which is 4 miles long, and from SCO to 500 feet high ; these hills are cleared of trees and the light green grass renders them distinguishable. Telok Samoi point is marked by a clump of tall casuarina trees ; there is a pier abreast the village. Entering the bay from the north-west the shore may be approached to any convenient disfance, as there are soundings of 7 and 10 fatlioms within 100 yards of the beach. There is good holding ground in 10 fathoms, stifi' blue mud, about half a mile from the north-western shore i>f the bay ; but the anchorage is exposed during the north-east monsoon and there is no shelter from the sea breeze ; there is shelter for small coasting craft inside the spit. Supplies. — Water and provisions may be obtained at Telok Samoi. For trade, see Oleh-leh page 17. Coast Banks. — The coast from Telok Samoi extends in an E.N.E. direction for 20 miles to Diamond point ; the intervening coast is low, flat covered with trees and skirted by a shoal bank on which at about mid- way, depths of 3 fathoms will be obtained at 2 miles from the shore. A patch of 10 feet lies just with the edge of this bank, with Kerloy river entrance bearing S. by W. J W., distant 2 miles. A patch of 5 fathoms lies 2J miles N. by W. ^ W. of this position, and a patch, the depth of which is not given, lies W. by N., distant 3 J miles from the same position. Several streams fall into the sea between Telok Samoi and Diamond point, the bars of which are passable only by very small craft. _ Karang Timan, which dries 5 feet and is steep-to, lies with Diamond point bearing E. \ S. distant 4 miles. * H.M.S. Nassau, 1872, 22 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. Caution must be exercised in appi'oaching the coast between Telok Samoi and Diamond point. DIAMOND POINT or Jambu Ayer.— The trees on Diamond point are of unequal height and higher than tliose on the adjacent land, thus making the point appear like a low sloping island when seen at a con- siderable distance, although the ground is very little elevated above the level of high-water spring tides. A high table mountain visible from the ofHng in clear weather is situated south-south-westward from Diamond point.. The extreme of the point is in lat. 5° 16' 0" N., long. 97° 30' 0" E. A spit extends off from Diamond point about three-quarters of a mile in a northerly direction, with a depth of 18 feet on its edge, and is steep-to. Vessels should not shoal less than 10 fathoms in approaching the spit, especially during the north-east monsoon, 'when a heavy swell will be ex- perienced. TIDSS. — It is high water, full and change, at Diamond point at Noon ; spring rise 9 feet. The flood sets to S.E., the ebb to the N.W. Between Diamond point and the Aroa islands the set varies a point or two according to the direction of the coast. Aj; springs the tides set at the rate of 2 or 3 knots, greatly influenced by the prevailing winds. The ebb is generally stronger and of longer duration than the flood, but, when the distance from the shore is considerable, seldom exceeds 1^ knots. On the coast westward of Diamond point, as before remarked, the tidal streams are not strong. The COAST. — From Diamond point to Aroa islands the coast is low and woody, and has several rivers, towns, and villages scattered along it. From 40 to 50 miles in the interior is a high chain of mountains, which may occasionally been seen in clear weather. The principal towns are Edie, Prauhilah, Lanksa, Sampai, Lankat, Dehli, Batu Barra, and Asahan, but some of these places are but collections of miserable huts, and their inhabitants remarkable neither for industry nor honesty.* The shore is often difficult of approach on account of shoals, which in some places extend a distance of 8 or 9 miles to seaward. Near these shoals, however, the soundings are generally a guide; the bottom consists of mud, sand, or sand and mud mixed. "Winds. — Regular land and sea breezes are experienced on this part of the coast in F'ebruary, March, and April. During the strength of the north-east monsoon this coast ought not to be approached, there being a heavy swell rolling on it at that time. * See Admiralty chart : Diamond point to the North sands, No. 1,353 ; scale, m = 0"15 of an inch. CHAP. I.] DIAMOND POINT. — TJJONG PRAUHILAH. 23 Simpang Olim river, situated 8 miles soutli-eastward of Diamond point, is almost dosed by a bar of sand ; the entrance is about 1| cables in width. A narrow channel marked by stakes leads into the river, which has from 9 to 15 feet water inside.* Arakuu Dur river, 4 miles south-eastward of Simpang Olim is similar to the latter, the entrance having about 3 feet at low water. f SDIE-BESAIl, a small river 23 miles south-eastward of Diamond point, has a depth of 6 feet on its bar at low water; the channel is marked by stakes.J Trade. — Edie is an open port, and represents the centre of the east coast trade, which is almost entirely in the hands of Penang merchants. The exports are pepper, gutta percha, wax, rattans, and hides. The imports are provisions, petroleum, hardware, and agricultural implements. The exports in 1884 amounted to 168,000/. ; imports 50,000/. ; a falling off in imports of about 50,000/., owing to exceptional circumstances. Shipping. — 364 steamers visited the port in 1884, of which 228 were British ; also 23 sailing vessels, Dutch mail steamers call here. AncIlOrage. — There is anchorage in 5 fathoms, sand and mud, at about 2 miles off Edie river. Ujong Frauhilah or Perlak is situated 9 miles south-east- ward of Edie Besar river.§ The coast between Diamond and Prauhilah (Perlak) points is safe to approach to soundings of 10 fathoms, which depth will be found at a distance of 2 miles from the shore, except near Prauhildh point, from which a reef, with from one to 3 fathoms, extends in a N. by W. direction a distance of 4 miles. These is a depth of 10 fathoms at o miles North and 4 miles N.N.E. from the point, outside which the water deepens quickly to 20 and 25 fathoms. At about 1 J miles north-eastward of the point there is a bank which dries. The entrance to Prauhilah river, on the north side of Prauhilah point, is almost dry at low water, but inside there is a depth of 12 feet for several miles up, and it is said to have communication with Kwala Lagot. A fishing village is situated at a considerable distance from the entrance of the river. * See plan of Simpang-Olim river on Admiralty chart No. 219 ; scale, m =■- 1 inch. t See plan of Arakun Dnr river on Admiralty chart No. 219 ; scale, »i = 2-2 inches. J See plan of Edie-Besar river on Admiralty chart No. 219 ; scale, m = 4 inches. § The steamship Cleveland, Commander A. Ponsonby, passed over the position of a rock reported in lat. 5° 0' N., long. 98° 18' E., or ahout 25 miles E. by N. J N., from Ujong Prauhilah, without seeing any danger or discoloured water. It is therefore considered that no rook exists in that position. 24 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [ciiaim. RaJRh. river, lO miles south-eastward of Ujong Prauhilah, has an entrance 2^ cables wide, with a depth of 4 feet on the bar at low water and 22 feet inside.* LANES A BAY. — The coast to the southward of Ujong Prauhilah, as far as Eajah river, is safe to approach to a depth of ."i fathoms at a distance of 1^ miles from the shore ; thence to Ujong Prolin or Byan, the north-Avest point of Lanksa bay, vessels should not shoal less than 16 or 20 fathoms, as reefs, on which the sea breaks heavily, project from Ujong Prolin a distance of 4 miles to the northward and eastward. Prolin point is low, but can be distinguished when bearing southward of S.W. by S. The eastern part of the reef should not be approached nearer than depths of 19 fathoms. Lanksa bay is formed between Ujong Prolin on the north-west side and Ujong Lanksa on the south-east ; the distance between these points is 4^ miles, and the depth of the bay is also about 4| miles. The bay con- tains numerous shoals, between which there are narrow boat channels leading into the various rivers that discharge into it. Near Ujong Lanksa, but separated by a channel 300 yards wide and 5 fathoms deep, lies Pulo Laga Toju, a small island about a mile in extent, and having a reef which extends three-quarters of a mile to the northward and eastward. This island can only be distinguished from the mainland in coming from the south-east. The entrance to Lanksa river lies southward of Pulo Laga Toju ; there is a narrow channel on the north-west side of that island, but the best channel to the river is south of Pulo Laga Toju and has 9 feet least water. These channels, however, are only practicable for vessels of small draught, and, as there are no leading marks, boats should be kept ahead fiouuding. In the entrance of the river lies Pulo Rawa, an island about half a mile in extent, westward of which the river is only 300 or 400 yards wide. The town is about 12J miles from the entrance of the river ; the inhabitants cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. A vessel intending to send her boats to Lanksa should anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms water, with Ujong Lanska bearing S.W. by W. distant 2^ miles. Pulo Roquit. — Prom Ujong Lanksa the coast trends east south-east- ward 15 miles to Ujong Tamian ; midway there is an island named Pulo Rokit, which is safe to approach on the north-eastern side to depths of 10 or 12 fathoms. Between Pulo Eokit and Ujong Lanksa the shore is skirted by a bank, which extends from one to 2 miles off shore, with from 12 to 18 feet on its eJge ; the S9undiugs decrease very gradually * See plan of Rajah river on Admiralty chart No. 219 ; scale, m = 0-8 of an inch. CHAP. I.] LANKSA BAY. — LANKAT RIVBR. 25 towards the bank. South-eastward of Pulo Rokit vessels should not approach the shore with less depths than 17 fathoms, and off Tamian to 20 fathoms, as the bank is steep -to. UJONG TAMIAN or SURUWI.— A reef projects from Ujong Tamian in a N.N.E. direction nearly one mile, thence continues along shore to the north-westward at about one mile distant, with 18 or 20 fathoms close tc its edge. The point should not be approached nearer than 2 miles on account of the strong undercurrents, which are liable to set the vessel into the small bay to the westward. A bank, of stnall extent lies E.N.E. distant 4| miles from Ujong Tamian. The least water found was 13 fathoms, with 20 and 23 fathoms close-to, Tamian river, about 2 miles southward of Ujong Tamian, has a depth of 4 feet on its bar at low water. The town of Tamian or Suruwi is situated about 10 miles up the river, which has a rise of 2 feet off the town. There is a dangerous reef off the point to the southward of the entrance.* Tides. — It is high water, full and change, off Ujong Tamian at Oh. 30m., rise of tide 6 to 9 feet. The coast between Ujong Tamian and Pulo Lankat-tuah forms a bay about 30 miles broad and 9 miles deep. At the head of the bay are two large islands : the northern oue is Pulo £!ampi, on the south extreme of which is a small town of the same name belonging to the Kajah of Achi. This bay is fronted by mud-banks which extend in places from 5 to 7 miles off shore, towards which the soundings decrease very gradually ; the banks may be safely approached to 6 fathoms, excepting near Tamian point and to the northward of Laukat river. Pulo Kampi (Sampai). — Leading to Pulo Kampi there is a safe channel, at the entrance of which, bearing N.E. ^ E, 6| miles from the south extreme of Pulo Sampai, there is a depth of 9 feet least water. Thence the channel, nearly straight to Kampi, is about half a mile in breadth, with deeper water. The channel is said to continue to Kanya-la- pun river. LANKAT RIVER. — From the entrance of Lankat river, situated about 18 miles south-eastward of Kampi island, a bank which dries in patches extends north and north-eastward for 5 or 6 miles. A vessel should not approach this bank to a less depth than 12 or 14 fathoms, as the soundings decrease very suddenly inshore of those depths, and are irregular. From the town of Chambia, on Lankat river, large quantities of tobacco are exported. For trade, see Dehli. * See. plan of Tamiau river on Admiralty chart, No. 219 ; scale, m = 0'8 of an incL. 26 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. PulO Lankat-tuall, is a small islet covered with trees ofif the mouth of Lankat-tuah river, and 3 miles eastward of Lankat ri^'er. The coast from Pulo Lankat-tuah to Ujong Beitia Chama forms a slight bay and is fronf(3d by extensive banks ; it may be safely approached to depths of 10 fathoms. Tapakuda river lies at the head of the bay. XTjOngBeitin Cliania, forms the northern extreme of the bay in ■which Delhi river is situated and bears from Lankat-tuah island S.E. by E. distant 11 j^ miles. The point should not be approached nearer than the depth of 10 fathoms. DCHLI RIVER lies about 5 miles southward of Ujong Beitin Chama, and has two entrances. The northern mouth is named the Balawan, and the southern mouth the Dehli ; the latter is not navigable, there being only 4 feet at high water on the bar in some places. The entrances are separated by Balawan, or Ragan island (a flat island covered with trees), and an extensive sand bank nearly dry at low water. This bank within a depth of 3 fathoms extends about 4 miles off shore, thence deepening gradually. Outer anchorage. — Vessels should anchor in 9 fathoms, with the entrance of Dehli river in line with a gap in the mountains, bearing S.W. ^ W., about 6 miles from the entrance. Sala'V^rau entrance has a depth of 15 feet on the bar at high water springs, over soft mud, with deeper water inside.* A Herbert beacon buoy lies N.N.E. of the entrance, in about 4J fathoms water, and about 4 miles south-eastward of Ujong Beitin Chama. The channel is marked by fishing stakes and beacons (in a dilapidated state), on either side; by keeping the white beacons about a cable distant on the starboard hand the passage is easy, and there are no dangers in the river up to the anchorage except one shoal on the port hand, on the outer edge of which there is a beacon. The best anchorage is in the fork of the river, on the west side of Balawan island, in about 21 feet water, and where two store ships lie moored for trade purposes. Here the Balawan river turns to the westwai-d. Above this anchorage the Dehli river is narrow, and only navigable by small craft ; a wooden bridge spans it. Towns- — The town of Dehli is about 2 miles above the store ships ; Meidan, the principal town, is beyond it. Above Dehli the river deepens and is said to be navigable for large boats for many miles,* * See plan of Dehli (Balawan) river on Admiralty chart. No. 1,353 ; scale, m =0-75 of an inch. — Remarks On Dehli from Consular Reports, 1885 ; and from Austrian Gun- boat Nautilus, 1886. CHAP. I.] DEHLI RIVBR AND BANKS. 27 A Dutch assistant resident lives at Meidan. A railway is in course of construction from abreast the anchorage, to Meidan, and to Deli Jua, 2 miles beyond, with a branch to Binji connect- ing the Langkat district. Dehli (Deli) district is made up of three states ; Dehli in the centre under a sultan ; Langkat to the northward under a native chief or Pangheran ; and Sirdang to the southward also under a sultan ; the whole forming part of the residency of Siak, the seat of Government being at Benkalis island, further down the coast, where the Dutch resident for the east coast has his head-quarters. There is a German consul at Dehli, and a branch of the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China. Population about 12,000. Trade. — Dehli district has rapidly increased in importance in the last 15 years on account of its extensive tobacco plantations. Several large companies have been formed, mostly Dutch ; the principal English lirm is the Langkat Plantation Company. The whole of the carrying trade is in the hands of Messrs. Holt's line. In 1873, the value of tobacco exported amounted to 208,000/.; and in 1884, to 2,000,000/. It is shipped from Glambia on the Langkat river, Dehli, and from Sirdang river. There is no coal here, the small river steamers using wood for fuel. Climate. — The health of the country may be considered good, though unseasonable weather often brings epidemics of fever and berri-berri, especially among new comers. Isolated cases of cholera occur. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Dehli river at 3h. ; rise of tide 7 to 10 feet. The tidal streams run from one to two hours later. TJjOng Sabunja Bunja. — From Dehli river the coast extends in an E.S.E. direction 17 miles to Ujong Sabunja Bunja, and may be approached to the depth of 6 fathoms. Ujong Sabunja Bunja may be known from the olfing by its grove of high trees, the third grove from Dehli river. DEHLI BANKS are about 23 miles in length north-west and south-east, and from 2 to 4^ miles in breadth. The south-east extreme lies with the following bearings : — Pulo Varela (Barhela) peak E. by N. ; a high tree on the northern extreme of a long straggling grove to the south- east of Ujong Sabunja Bunja S. by E. :| E. ; the grove on Sabunja Bunja S.W. by W. I W. The north-west extreme of the banks has from 7 to 10 fathoms, with Beitin Charaa point W. by S. f S. about 12 miles. Bunjar shoals, which, form th^ dangerous part of Dehli: banks, are situated on the southern extreme of the banks, and consist of two marrow ridges of sandj which are 3 to 4 miles long in a north-west and south-east 28 MALACCA STBAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. direction, half a mile broad, lie" nearly abreast of each "other, and are separated by a channel which is 2 miles "wide, with depths of from 6 to 9 fethoms. The least water on the western ridge is 6 feet, from which spot the high tree of the grove south-east of Ujong Sabunja Bunja bears S.E. by S. 13 miles, and the grove on Sabunja Bunja S.W., 6^ miles. On the shoalest part of the eastern ridge there is a depth of 9 feet, from which the high tree of the grove south-east of'Sabunja Bunja, S.S.E. ^ E. 14^ miles; and the grove on Sabunja Bunja, S.W. ^ S. 9 miles. Pulo Varela peak bearing E. ^ S. leads to the northward of Bunja shoals, and the same object bearing E. by N. ^ N. leads to the southward of them. The high tree* on the north extreme of a long straggling grove of trees to the south-east of Ujong Sabunja Bunja, bearing S. by E. | E., leads (o the eastward, but this tree can only be seen in clear weather. The centre of the grove on Sabunja Bunja bearing S. by W. will lead in 5 fathoms north- "westward of Bunja shoals, and clear of all dangers on Dehli banks. It is not advisable to shoal to less than 18 fathoms in passing these banks at night. There is a clear channel, 3^ miles wide and having depths of from 5^ to 10 fathoms between Bunja shoals and the coast, but the shore to the south- ward of Ujong Sabunja Bunja should not be approached nearer than 3 miles, as there is a bank having from 9 to 12 feet water extending parallel to the shore for 5| miles ; tliere is deep water between this bank and the shore. From Ujong Sabunja Bunja the coast extends east-south-eastward 35 miles to Mattie point, and may in most places be approached to 2 or 3 miles in from 4^ to 7 fathoms water, but the soundings outside are very irregular, with overfalls. There are several rivers in this part of the coast, the entrances to vphich are passable only by boats. Sirdang ri"V"er lies to the -westward of Ujong Sabunja Bunja, in one of the Dehli tobacco growing districts, already described. THE COAST.— Mattie Point.— The northeast extreme of this point, forms the northern extreme of Batu Barra bay, and may easily be known by its high grove of trees. Five miles northward of Mattie point the depths are from 12 to 14 fathoms, with occasional patches of 10 fathoms ; thence to the southward it shoals suddenly to 5 and 2 fathoms to the sandy spit dry at low water, which extends one mile north and north-eastward from Mattie point. * The high tree is among a small cluster, and is very little higher than the adjacent trees. The foreshore is low and deceptive in appearance, being backed by a range of mountains which have many peculiarly-shaped peaks. — H.M.S. Midge, 1873. cnAP.i.] MATTIE POINT. — PULO VARBLA. 29 Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, off Matties point at 3 h. ; springs rise 7 to 10 feet. The tidal sireams run from one to two hours later, and set at the rate of 2 to 3 miles an hour at springs. Mattie Shoal is a dangerous sand bank 6 miles long, in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction, one mile broad, and having depths of from one to 2 fathoms. There is a safe channel between the shoal and the mainland, the narrowest part, 1^ miles, being off Mattie point. From the north-west extreme of Mattie shoal, Pulo Varela peak bears N. \ W., Mattie point S.S.W. ^ W., and Pulo Pandan B. by N. At one mile southward of the south-east extreme of Mattie shoal is a small patch having 16 feet water, easily cleared by attending to the bear- ings of Pnlo Salanama and a remarkable single high tree near Batu Barra. BATU BARRA RIVER.— The entrance to this river, situated 9^ miles south-eastward from Mattie point, is fronted by a mud-flat which extends a considerable distance along the coast, and, within a depth of 18 feet, is from 3 to 5 miles off shore ; this flat has regular depths, and extends to within 4 miles of Pulo Salanama. A wide spreading remarkable tree is situated about 1^ miles westward of the river entrance. Batu Barra river is about 300 yards wide, with regular depths to the dry banks at its mouth. At a short distance from the entrance the river divides into two creeks, which are almost dry at low water. About a mile up the western branch is a town where the chief rajah resides ; on the banks of the eastern branch is another town, and there are said to be other towns farther up the river. The people cultivate rice and rattans. Elephants abound inland, horses are also plentiful. Goats and poultry may be procured at reasonable prices. PULO VARELA, a small island, with a peak about 600 feet high, is situated 22 miles from the nearest coast of Sumatra, nearly north of Mattie point, and may be seen in clear weather at a distance of 28 miles.* An islet lies off the north-west point, and another close off the Fouth end. In a little cove at the south end of Pulo Varela water may be procured from a small run, and there is anchorage at one mile off the south-east part of the island in 12 to 18 fathoms. Firewood and good pins spars may be cut here, but boats landing should be on their guard against natives from the adjacent coast, who frequent the island. Banks. — Northward of Pulo Varela is a bank having depths of 5 to 10 fathoms ; its south extreme bears N. by W. | W. 7 miles from Pulo Varela, • See also Admiralty chart, No. 793 b. 30 MALACCA STUAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [chap. i. the bank thence extends in a N.W. by W. direction for 7 miles, and is from one to two miles broad.* A bank about 5 miles long, having 8 to 10 fathoms, lies 4 miles south- ward of Pulo Varela. A third bank lies with its north extreme nearly midway between Pulo Varela and Mattie point, thence extending about 15 miles si)uth-eastward, with a breadth of 4 miles, and about 9 miles off shore. Five fathoms was the least water found on this bank, between which and Mattie shoal the depths are from 12 to 20 fathoms. The BROTHERS are two small wooded islands lying 5 miles N.N.E. and S.S.W. from each other, and may be seen from a distance of 15 miles. The northernmost, Pulo Pandan, boars about S.E. | S. distant 25| miles from Pulo Varela, and is encircled by rocky ground to the distance of half a mile. Rocks extend a quarter of a mile from the north end of Pulo Salanama, the southern island, and off the south-east end there is a small islet having a remarkable single tree. The COAST.— Sungi AsahaU, situated 20 miles south-east- ward of Batu Barra, has a mud-flat extending 7 miles north-east from its entrance, the depths upon which decrease from 3 fathoms on its edge regularly towards the shore. This flat is a continuation of that already mentioned as extending a considerable distance along the shore from Batu Barra river, f At its mouth, Asahan river is, 1,600 yards wide, "but 7 miles further up, where it receives a tributary named the Silau, it narrows to one-third of this breadth. At low-water the depth in the channel of the river is about 12 feet ; there probably is not so much water in the channel leading to it over the mud-flat. LIDUNG BAY. — Prom Tanjong Jumpal, the east point of Asahan river, the coast trends south-eastward for 9 miles to Tanjong Se Api-api, the west point of Lidung bay. This bay is about 15 miles across ; the shore mud bank fills neai'ly the whole of it, and extends nearly 3 miles seaward of a line joining the points, and being steep-to the approach by the lead gives little warning. Sungi Kewalu and Sungi Fanei, two considerable rivers, empty themselves into the bay. * It has been stated that there is a depth of only 2 fathoms on some part of this bank, hut 6 fathoms was the least water found by the officers of the Krishna during their survey in 1860. The Messageries steamer Djemmah, reports a depth of 5 fathoms (using Thomson's sounding machine), with Pulo Yarela hearing S.E. \ S., distant 12 miles. f See Admiralty chart: — North Sands to Singapore, No, 1,355, »i=0-l.'5 of an inch. CHAP.!.] THE BROTHEBS.— STJNGI ROKAN. 31 Sungi Kewalu is about one mile wide in the entrance, and has a least depth of one fathom for about 15 miles. Sungi Paniying, between Kewalu, and Tanjong Muara the east point of Lidung bay, is nearly 2 miles wide in the entrance, and one mile wide for a distance of 10 miles, where it divides into two branches. The depth in the river is from 1^ to 4 fathoms, and the channel over the bar, which lies N.E. from Tanjong Muara, has about l^ fathoms, with hard ground nearly dry at low water bordering the north side of it. Caution. — The coast from Tanjong Pasir, the easternmost point of Lidung bay, ti'ends south-eastward about 45 miles to the entrance to Sungi Eokan. It is fronted by extensive flats and mud banks reaching off nearly to Aroa islands, and extending eastward past Rokan river to Pulo Supat, nearly filling the space between that island and South Sands. This coast has not been surveyed, but being far out of the track of vessels proceeding through Malacca strait, should be avoided. Vessels finding themselves in this neighbourhood must therefore trust to a good look-out aloft, as the shoals can generally be seen in clear weather, and to the slight information to be derived from the chart. The lead is not of much use, as the shoals are said to be steep-to, but its use must not on that account be neglected. SUNGI ROKAN, one of the largest rivers of Sumatra, has off its entrance two low wooded islands, Pulo Halang Besar and Pulo Halang Kechil. The former is, as its name implies, the larger of the two islands, and lies 3 miles northward of the other. There is a passage of IJ to 2 fathoms water between them leading into the river, and a passage with about the same depth lying due north of Tanjong Perbabuan, the eastern point of the entrance. Eokan river is about 4 miles broad just within Pulo Halang Kechil, decreasing in breadth to 2 miles at Pulo Beting, which lies in mid- channel at about 14 miles from the entrance ; thence the river gradually decreases in width to half a mile at Pulo Papan, about 35 miles from the entrance, beyond which little is known. The village of Tanah Putih is about 3 miles below Pulo Papan, on. the left bank. Southward of Pulo Papan, it appears to trend with numerous windings to its source in the mountains, a distance of 100 miles or more. Several large villages subject to the Rajah of Siak are said to exist on its banks. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the river, at 5h., springs rise 12 feet. The tides are said to run in the river at the rate of SJ miles an hour at springs, producing a bore. PULO RUPAT and PULO MEDANG, lying northward of it, form a circle of about 25 miles in diameter ; they are separated by a narrow strait named Salat Morong. North-westward of these islands 32 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATEA COAST. [chap. i. in the direction of South Sands, are the extensive banks already referred to ; and south-eastward, inside a line joining Pulo Medang and the east point of Pulo Benkalis, are also extensive mud banks. A patch of 3^ fathoms lies on the outer edge of this bank, E. by S. | S. distant 8 miles from the eastern entrance to Salat Morong, and about 10 miles westward of Rob Roy bank. The north-east shore of Pulo Medang is bold to approach, there being from 15 to 20 fathoms at the distance of one mile; Raleigh shoal of 3^ fathoms lies nearly 10 miles off this shore. Salat Hupat, separating Pulo Rupat from the main, is about 35 miles in length, and 2 miles broad in its narrowest part. Several islands lie near the centre of the strait, the largest of which is named Pulo Pajung. There appears to be not less than 3 fathoms water through this strait by keeping near the Sumatra shore until southward of the islands, thence the water deepens towards Brewer strait. SALAT PANJANG or Brewer Strait.— The west ap- proach to this strait is between Pulo Rupat and Pulo Benkalis. The strait is formed by the coast of Sumatra and the large islands Pulo Benkalis, Padang, and Rantau, and is about 90 miles in length, 5 miles broad abreast of Pulo Benkalis, and 1^ miles in breadth in its narrowest parts. The eastern approach is westward of Great Carimon and Pulo Papan, and eastward of Pulo Rangsang. Neither of the approaches have been sur- veyed, but soundings have been taken in the western portion of the strait as far as Siak river ; the water is deep as far east as Pulo Panjang, beyond which there appears to be not more than 2 fathoms in places. Mud banks occupy a large portion of the approach to the western entrance of Brewer strait, but there appears to be a channel of deep water leading from about one mile eastward of Pulo Medang in a S. by E. direction, to the centre of the strait. A long bank of 2 fatlioms lies near the entrance, about 7 miles westward of Tanjong Jati the east point, and nearly 3 miles off the shore abreast Sungi Menambang. Also, Siak sandbank of 1^ fathoms lies about 3^ miles off the south-east coast of Palo Rupat, with Tanjong Jering bearing N. J E. ; Tanjong Tego W. by S. ^ S. ; and the river abreast, N.W. by W. | W. From the west extreme of Pulo Padang a shoal of 1^ fathoms extends half way across the strait, abreast which, the Sumatra shore should be kept. Shoal water extends some distance also off Siak river. From Pulo Panjang, towards the eastern end of the strait, shoal water extends about 2 miles east and west, and about half a mile south of it, and from the island lying 4 miles east of Pulo Panjang a shoal extends one mile south- ward. The Sumatra shore should be kept when passing these islands. Bnkit BatU is a village built on piles, situated on the Sumatra shoi'e of Brewer strait, at the mouth of a small river of the same name, at about ^HAP. I.] SAIiAT PANJAKG OR BREWER STRAIT, 33 '9 miles within the west entrance. It is the principal station of the war iproas of the Eajah of Siak. There is anchorage abreast of the river in 12 fathoms, with the town fcearing W.S.W. and Tanjong Jati bearing N. by W. ^ W. Pulo Benkalis is the large island forming the north side of Brewer ■atrait. The town of Benkalis is on the south side of the island, nearly ^abreast of Bukit Batu. Residency. — The seat of the Government of the residency of Siak is on Benkalis island. Here also is the head-quarters of the Dutch resident for the east coast of Sumatra. Salat Padang, the channel leading out of Brewer strait, between Pulo Benkalis and Pulo Padang, is about one mile wide. Its western ■entrance, with a depth of about 5 fathoms, lies 10 miles eastward of Bukit Batu. Siak river enters Brewer strait at about 8 miles southward of Tanjong Balei or 18 miles south-eastward of Bukit Batu. The river is about half a mile wide at its entrance, fronted by sandy spits, with a marrow channel between them having a depth of about 19 feet.* The town of Siak, the residence of the Rajah, appears to be about 40 miles from the entrance. H.M.S. Vixen, drawing 14 feet, entered this river and proceeded to Siak.f A depth of 15 feet was found over the bar, deepening within ; the east side of the river was kept aboard until above the second island, ofE which a shoal extends to the eastward ; thence the river was clear to the town of Siak. Off the town and for 6 miles beyond, depths of 12 to 15 fathoms were found. For vessels of about 200 tons the river Siak is said to be navigable for 20 miles beyond the town of Siak ; including boat navigation its navigable course has been estimated at 150 miles. Salat Riugit is the passage leading out between Pulo Padang and Pulo Eantau, southward of Pulo Merbau. It is stated to have irom 4 to 6 fathoms water. Salat Asam leads from Salat Ringat, westward of Pulo Merbau. Salat Ayer Itam is the continuation of Salat Ringit along the north side of Pulo Rantau, and between that island and Pulo Rangsang. It is about one mile wide, but the depth is not known. Campore river, situated in the bight southward of the east entrance to Brewer strait, is fronted by an extensive mud-flat almost dry at low water. It is little frequented on account of its rapid tides and bore. Tides. — At the mouth of Siak river it is high water, full and change, at 9h. ; tides rise 12 feet, and set at the rate of 2^ miles an hour. Off the ♦ See sketch of entrance to Siak river on Admiralty chart No. 1,355. t Commander George Giffard, B.N., H.M.S. Vixen, 1845. U 20665. r 34 MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. [ohap. i. town of Siak the tide rises 1 1 feet. At the southern entrance of Brewer strait the rise is about 15 feet, with a velocity of 3^ miles an hoUr, but much greater when nearer the entrance of Campore river. The tides off the southern entrance are greatly influenced by this river producing a strong eddy round some of the islands, so that while the tide is running to the southward on one side of an island, it may often be found running to the northward on the other. The COAST. — Caution. — The space between the islands of Benkalis and Rangsang, into which debouch the' straits of Padang, Asam, Ringit, and Ayer Itam ; also between Pulo Rangsang and the islands of Great Carimon and Pulo Pappan, should be approached with caution, as they contain and are fronted by extensive mud-banks, and dangerous sand- banks, the positions of which have not been determined. Salat Sabong and Mendol, situated within the last mentioned space, are intricate, and never used by European navigators. The former is contiguous to the western side of Sabong and Great Carimon islands ; that of Mendol is along the Sumatra coast, westward of Pulo Mendol. GREAT CARIMON (KRIMON) ISLAND is ii miles long in a north and south direction ; near its north end are two peaked hills, 1,376 feet, and 1,474 feet high; the remainder of the island is princi- pally low barren land. It southern end is separated from Sabong island by Glam strait, 2^ miles wide. Its east side, as far south as Two-tree point, is fronted by a shallow mud-bank, which extends 1^ miles seaward. Abreast Two-tree point a bank having a depth of 2f to 4^ fathoms extends 6 miles in a S.E. by S. direction, with its outer edge distant 2^ miles from the island. Little Carimon separated from the north-east end of Great Carimon island by a deep channel half a mile wide, is a high bold island 2 J miles long, with two peaks covei'ed with trees, the northern being 1,067 feet, and the southern 1,026 feet high. The north-east side is steep- to, but from its south point a spit extends 4| miles south-eastward, with a least depth of 3| fathoms. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage south-east of Little Carimon island during the south-west monsoon. The Brothers are round islets, the two outermost of which lie near each other about 2 J miles north-westward of Little Carimon ; the other of similar appearance is within a mile of that island, and is not so soon dis- cerned as the outer ones. About 2 miles southward of the Brothers, and one mile from Great Carimon, is White rock, above water. Seal rock, sur- rounded by foul grouud, is situated about 2^ miles westward of White rock. CHAP. I.] THE MALAY COAST, 36 Southward of Seal rock are several small islands; Oiscar, the outer one is 3 miles distant from Great Carimon. The ground is foul f6r one mile notth-westward of them. The space southward of the islands, as also the west side of Great Carimon, is but little known. The north side of Malacca strait will now be described; THE MALAY COAST. SALANG (Thalang) or Junkseylon island, occupied by the Siamese of Ligor, is separated from the Malay peninsula by Papra (or Pak-Phra) strait, and extends between lat. 8° 10' N. and 1° 46' N. ; it is about ,24 miles long, 9. miles broad, and divided into two Bajahships of about equal size ; the northern being named Thalang, and the southern Puket.' The population of Junkseylon, composed of Malays, Chinese, and Siamese (in 1879), was about 32,500. The principal towns are Bandon, Puket, Katha, and Tharua the old capital. The north coast of Papra strait is under the Bajah of Takuatung. Junkseylon is rich in tin mines, which appear to have been worked by Chinese miners for centuries back. The mines employed (in lo72) nearly 35,000 Chinese, but since then there has been a steady decrease in the number, owing to the depreciation in the value of the metal. The mining is worked in the primitive manner the Chinese adopt, the result being that during the dry season all operations are stopped for three months for want of water. The West coast trends nearly north and south, and has several large bays, with deep water, but none affording any protection against the south-west monsoon. The northern half of this coast is low wooded land, with the exception of one piece of high land at 8 miles from the north point of the island. The southern half is a range of mountains 1,000 to 1,750 feet high, thickly wooded, sloping gradually to the northward and southward, and visible at a distance of 30 miles. This side of the island is steep-to, with 10 or 12 fathoms close to the shore. Off the west coast are two small islands, named Goh Gata (Gavai), one of which is 50 feet high, the other low ; they lie close together S.W. by W. ^ W. one mile from Lem Son, and have deep water around them. BaudOU river lies juat south of Lem S(5n ; on it is the town of Bandon, which contains about 100 houses, and the residence of the Eajah of Thalang. * See Admiralty charts :— Bassein river to Pulo Penang, No. 830 ; Sayer islands and adjacent coast, including Junkseylon, No. 842. Remarks (amended) of Commander A» de Richelieu, Siamese gunboat Coronation. 1876. Lem (Siamese), means point ot Cftper and Goh, an island. C2 36 MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. [oiiap. i. Papra or Pack-Phra strait, separates Salang (Junksey ion) from the Malay peninsula, and is about 14 miles long. The natives are very superstitious about this strait, which they have named Pak-Phra or Lord's mouth ; the passage is much used by junks. The land on both sides is mostly low and wooded, but the capes or lems are high. Along both shores of the strait are several villages where provisions and water may be obtained. Bar. — Directions. — Outside the western entrance are large sand- •banks, which are continually shifting ; it is not prudent to attempt to enter without a pilot. Close to the entrance, which is about half a mile broad, there is a reef of rocks lying along the mainland and only visible at low water ; but the reef does not extend far. In the south-west monsoon the sea breaks entirely across the channel, but in the north-east monsoon the bar is generally smooth. In January, 1877, the channel was close to the northern shore ; and then straight to seaward in a W.S.W. direction, and the depth, which was 7 feet in 1875, was then 3 fathoms. Inside the bar there is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms. From the west entrance of Papra strait to Lem Khun, there is a good channel with 4, 5, and 6 fathoms at low water. The narrowest part of Papra strait is between two points, Lem Hin on the continent and Lem Khun on Junkseylon, 4^ miles from the west entrance, to the eastward of which there is a sand-bank dry at low wa,ter ; to the southward of this bank the depths are 9 feet at low water, whilst 4 and 5 fathoms are to be found on the north, west, and east sides ■of the bank. Another large sand-bank extends from the west side of Lem Asam, between which bank and the aforesaid bank lies the channel. Between the dry sand-bank situated in the middle of the strait and Gob Galah, a small white rocky island situated 1^ miles to the south-east of Lem Khun, there is a broad channel with 4 and 5 fathoms water. Goh Janak is a small island lying a quarter of a mile to the south-west of Goh Galah. To the south-west of Goh Janak there are extensive sand-banks dry at low water, and to the south is Tamaprau river, on the banks of which at 2 miles from the mouth the town of the same name stands, and again 1^ miles further is another larger town, Muang Mai, but boats cannot go beyond Tamaprau. To the eastward of Goh Janak and Goh Galah there is good anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms. Pass on the north-east side of Goh Galah at 2 cables distant, and then steer S.E. to pass Lem Sai (on Junkseylon) one or 1-| cables distant ; in this part there are depths of 4 and 5 fathoms. Thence steer E. by S. to pass about 2 cables north of Goh Bangam Jai or Passage island of old ' English navigators, a round island, like all the rest in this locality, cpyerftd.. OHAp.i.] SALANG OR JUNKSETLON ISLAND. 37 with trees ; between these two places the channel, which is formed between the fringing sand-banks, is little more than a cable wide, has 12 feet at low-water springs, and is composed of soft mud. From Passage island steer East to pass about 3 or 4 cables southward of Goh Baugam Noi the water gradually deepening as the latter is approached, pass Lam Lem or cape Three points the north-east point of Junkseylon at 3 or 4 cables distant, and with 7 fathoms water. Thence E. ^ N. to pass 5 cables south of Goh Leng and 3 cables north of Goh Thanan or Pulo Chupa, a small round island one mile east of Lam Lem. Pass one mile eastward of Goh Thanan and then, if bound to Tharua harbour, steer between Goh Ret and Goh Naka Joi in about 6 fathoms water. Tides. — The tides in Papra strait are very irregular. At the bar the times of high and low water seem to correspond nearly with those at Puket. In the strait the flood stream sets in from both sides at the same time and meet at the sand bank of Lem Khun. The ebb stream also runs out of both entrances to the strait at the same time. In the middle of tht- strait there is hardly any tidal stream, but the water rises and falls froni-- 6 to 8 feet. At the west entrance of the strait the tidal stream sometimes- runs at the rate of 6 knots ; at the east entrance it generally attains onh- half that velocity. The South coast forms a large bay (Khelong bay) with shallow water, the south-west point of which is Lem Voalan. At nearly three- quarters of a mile to the southward of this point lies Goh Keo-jai or Pagoda island, on the north-west point of which there are two white pagodas. Between this island and Voalan point there is a safe passage having 8 to 10 fathoms water. To the southward of Goh Keo-jai stands another island, Goh Keo-noi, smaller than the former, but of equal height and covered with trees. Besides these two islands there are five others- along the south coast of Junkseylon, all high and wooded ; with depths of 5 to 10 fathoms round them, except along the north side of Goh Khalom... The inner passage round the south coast is deep ; it runs between Lem Voalan and Goh Keo-jai, to the southward of Goh Aa and Goh Khalom, . and northward of Goh Hee and Goh Bon. Eheloug bay. — During the south-west monsoon the best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, at about 3 cables northward of Goh Aa. In the north part of Khelong bay are two small rivers, Beusong and Mudong, both leading to large villages where water and provisions may be had in abundance at reasonable rates. In the inner passage the flood streams set to the eastward, and the ebb to the westward, at the rate of from one to 3 miles an hour. The £!ast coast trends north and south, is fronted with numerous islands, and has two harbours, namely, Puket or Tonkah, and Tharua. 38 MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. [ohap. i. Between the east coast and i'uloPanjang. there is a broad channel in which the flood stream sets to the northward andtlie ebb stream to the southward, at the rate of 2 to 3 knots an hour. PUKET HARBOUR (generally known as Tonkah), lies north- ward of Khelong bay. , Puket is the principal place in Junkseylon, the residence of the Eajah, and the only port frequented by coasting steam vessels. The only export is tin, of which about 6,000 tons leave Puket every year.* Pulo Siri (Cirie), an island only separated from the shore by a nar- row creek, which at low water is impassable even for boats, foi'ms the north- east extreme of Puket harbour ; its south-east point is named Lem Atpha. Town. — The town of Puket lies about one mile up a small creek. At high water boats can ascend to the town, but at low water they can only reach the gtone pier by the harbour master's office, from which a road leads to the town. The buildings in Puket are toostly wooden houses with thatched roofs, but there are a few brick buildings. The principal are, the Grovernment house, the residence of the Siaioese Royal Commissioner, the stamp office for tin, the barracks and Commandant's house, and several tin- smelting houses. Mails. — There is a weekly mail service between Puket and Penang, and a fortnightly mail to Rangoon and intermediate ports. Supplies. — Fresh beef is difficult to procure, but poultry and vege- tables are plentiful and can be obtained at reasonable prices. Water (not very good) is brought alongside at 4 dollars per 1,000 gallons. Coal cannot be procured, but firewood can be purchased at 8 dollars per 1,000 pieces. Good fresh water can be taken from two wells, one on Goh Tapau-jai (Pulo Kapal Besar), the other on the north side of Nambo point, the point to the north-west of that island. Six miles west of Puket is the town of Kathu, containing about 8,000 inhabitants, principally Chinese miners. There is a good road between Puket and Kathu. Anchorage. — The harbour is divided into two anchorages by a sandy flat, over which there is only from 6 to 9 feet at low-water spring tides, therefore, only small vessels can go into the inner harbour. Large vessels should anchor in, from 4 to 5 fathoms, about 2 or 3 cables southward of the black buoy which marks the south side of the sandy flat. A red buoy marks the north side of the flat, and small vessels may anchor in 2^ fathoms at low water about 3 cables to the northward of this buoy.. Tides. — It : is high water, full and change, in Puket harbour at lOh. 10m., springs rise 9 feet, neaps 7 feet ; during the south-west monsoon * ,See Admiralty.plan :— Pakfet harbour, No. 843 j scale, m = l*95:inohes.; CHAP.T.] PTJKET HARBOUR. 39 the day tides are higher than the night tides. In the north-east monsoon the night tides and the day tides are equal. Very little tidal stream is felt in the harbour. Directions. — Lem Phan-Va, the south-east point of Junkseylon, is steep-to ; a shoal on which stands a group of rocks awash at high water extends from the point nearly one mile to the south-west. Vessels proceeding to Puket, when off this point, should steer north-eastward until Tonkah hill is seen bearing N.N.W. between Tapau-noi and Tapau-jai islands, when it should be steered for, passing between these islands in a depth of 4 fathoms. After passing between them, steer N. by W. if intending to anchor in the outer harbour. If bound to the inner harbour steer to pass close to the westward of the black buoy, and to the eastward of the red buoy. Vessels from the eastward may enter the harbour by passing northward of Pulo Kapal !Kechil, and north of a red buoy which marks a coral reef extending one cable from the north end of the island. Between Pulo Kapal Kechil and Lem Atpha (the north-east point of the harbour), there is a sand-bank having only 6 or 7 feet at low-water spring tides. From the south side of Pulo Eapal Besar a rocky reef, with a small islet and sand- banks, extends to a distance of one mile southward. The bottom, at both inner and outer anchorages, is mud. The harbour is open to east, and south-east winds, during the prevalence of which there is a little swell. Winds and Weather. — January. — Steady north-east monsoon ; wind generally more to the E.N.E. and sometimes East. The wind is generally stronger in the evening and night than in the daytime. Tem- perature between 60° and 80°. No rain. February. — Steady north-east monsoon the first half of the month with no rain, and generally blowing fresh. In the latter part of the month the north-east monsoon becomes weaker and is squally every three or four days, generally in the evening and from the northward. In this month fresh, water is very scarce, there is also much fever and other sickness amongst the natives. March. — North-east monsoon very weak, generally from North, and sometimes N.W. with occasional squalls from the N.E. Temperature between 75° and 90° Gtreat scarcity of water and much sickness on shore. April. — Change of monsoon, winds from West to North ; heavy squalls from the north-eastward generally occur with high water in the afternoon or evening. The night tides are very low. There is much sickness. May. — The burst of tlie south-west monsoon occurs in the first week of May, after which the wind seldom blows from the east quarter. The ileavy rains now commence, and squalls are frequent. On the west shore of Junkseylon the swell is heavy, hut Puket harbour is well sheltered^ 40' MALACCA STRAIT.— MALAY COAST. [chap. r. June. — South-west monsoon fairly set in, with heavy squalls from the- S.W. and N.W. When rainy weather sets in it usually lasts for five days^ after that there is generally fine weather (without rain) for about a week, and sometimes for a fortnight. Temperature between 60° and 80°. Day tides higher than night tides. July, — South-west monsoon, with squalls and heavy showers ; generally the weather is rainy for five days and then fine again for five days. When the wind is due S.W., there is rain ; when West and N.W., fine weather. August. — Strong south-west monsoon the entire month, with squalls- and heavy rain, much the same as July, but in August the I'ain sometimes continues for ten and fifteen days, and is usually followed by the same period of fine weather. Heaviest squalls generally at night-time. Mean temperature 82°. This is the hottest month, and the greatest rainfall occurs, the average number of rainy days being from eighteen to twenty. September. — Strong south-west monsoon, but the wind more from west- ward. Fewer squalls, but heavier and longer showers of rain than in August. Rainy days about eighteen. Fine weather generally lasts but one or two days at a time. October. — During the first half of month south-west monsoon is steady ; towards end of the month the wind is very unsteady ; Westerly and S.W. still prevailing. Showers not so heavy as in September. Eainy days about fourteen. Weather cloudy. Mean temperature 80°. Day tides still higher than night tides. November. — Weather variable. West and S.W. winds still prevailing, but often veering to the northward and eastward ; heavy squalls from all quarters, but heaviest from S.W. Rainy days about fourteen. Weather very cloudy the whole month, generally three or four days fine at a time. December. — ^North-east monsoon setting in strong and with heavy squalls from N.E., wind generally to the eastward of N.E. ; sometimes heavy squalls from the north-west accompanied with lightning. Average number of rainy days six or eight. Mean temperature 80°. Towards the end of this month mostly clear weather. Day tides and night tides of equal height. Goh Ehai Nok is a small, low, sandy island, lying in the channel between Pulo Panjang and Junkseylon, about 5 miles E.N.E. from Lem Atpha, with a bluff on the south side, covered with trees ; it is siirrounded with rocks to a distance of about three-quarters of a mile, of which two patches are visible, the one north-westward, the other south- eastward of the island. Goh. Khai Noi is smaller and lower then Khai Nok, from which it is separated by a channel, 2| miles broad, with depths of 10 and 12 CHAP. I.] WINDS AND WEATHER. — THABUA HARBOUR. 41 fathoms. This island is surrounded by rocks, which do not, however, extend far out. Gob. Sob {Sisters') are two small, high perpendicular rocks, about 3-^ miles N. by E. from Goh Lipe (a conical rock moi-e than 100 feet high), and about one mile off the coast of Goh Jao Jai (Pulo Panjang) ; there is deep water all around them. Tbarua harbour is in the next large bay to the north of Pukel. The town of Tharua, which is situated 1^ miles up a small river of the same name, was formerly the residence of the Bajah of Puket, who in 1859 removed to Puket; previous to 1796 (when Tharua was demolished by the Burmese) it was a town of considerable importance. At that time there was a large Portuguese settlement here, and the harbour was fre- quented by numbers of European vessels ; there is however, no trade at TharQa. The ruins of a fine market street, composed of large brick buildings, and the spacious houses belonging to the Europeans who once resided here are still to be seen ; an evidence of its former importance. There are two entrances to the harbour, the better one being to the northward of Alang Noi ; the other to the southward of Alang Jai and passing to the northward of Goh Mali and Goh Gap. Directions. — Entering the bay steer W. by S. to pass about half a mile northward of Alang Noi in 8 fathoms, after passing which the water will shoal gradually towards the anchorage, where there is a depth of 3 fathoms, mud bottom, with Alang Noi bearing E. by N., and the middle of Goh Maprau about South. There appears to be a shoal about half a mile to westward of Alang-jai ; and vessels should not attempt to pass between Maprau and that island, as the channel is foul. Farther northward are three other islands, Goh Peh, Goh Naka Noi, and Goh Naka Jai ; patches of rocks extend for 1^ miles north-westward of Naka Noi. Between these last three islands and Junkseylon there is a good channel with 4 and 5 fathoms of water. Klang Bangkrong, westward of Goh Naka Noi, is a river leading to the old residence of the Kajah of Thalang, who lives now at Bandon, up a river of the same name, on the west coast of JunkseyloQ. GOH JAO JAI (PULO PANJANG) is a large island, 7 mUes eastward of Junkseylon, belonging to the Bajah of Panga.* The west coast of this island, which trends in a N. by W. direction, is of moderate height, and has in the middle a large bay named Au Lubo, in which there are depths of 2 and 3 fathoms, In this bay are two large villages, and in the entrance lies a Email island with a group of rocks northward of it, some of which are above water. The north part of the * See Admiralty chart :— Sayer island' and adjacent coast^ No. 842. 42 MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. [chap. i. bay is clear of rocks. , Close to the shore along this coast there are depths of from 4 to 6 fathoms. Lem Ngia or Nia, the north-west point of Ptilo Panjang, is a high bluff, steep-to. The south coast forms a deep shallow bay (Au Lubaling) ; , in the north part is a small river (Klang Lubaloi), one mile up which is a village of the same name. Goh Musang forms at low- water the soutli-west point of the bay ; it is connected with the main island by sand-banks and rockS; over which there is depth of about 3 feet at high tide. About 2 or 3 cables south-east from this island are some rocks about 30 feet high, and there is broken ground about one mile off, with depths of from 3 to 6 fathoms. Outside are depths of 10, 14, and 16 fathoms. The east coast of Goh Jao Jai is high and bold with deep water close to the shore ; it takes a nearly north and south direction as far as Goh Eang Nok (Bird's-nest island), and thence trends N.N.W. and is low and sandy as far as Lem Sam, the north-east point of Goh Jao Jai. About 3 miles N".E. by E. ;^ E. from Lem Hualan, is a group of rocks, of which at high- water only one small point is visible about 2 feet above water ; between the rocks and the main island are depths of 8 and 9 fathoms, and one mile outside the rocks the depth is 14 fathoms. The north coast of Goh Jao Jai takes a W.N.W. dii-ection, and is mostly low and sandy ; the water along this coast is shallow, the north-west point excepted, where there is 5 and 6 fathoms close to the shore. The moun- tains on Goh Jao Jai form one long range, from 500 to 1,000 feet in height, extending from the north-west to the south-east point of the island. Iiem Hualan, the south-east point of Goh Jao Jai, is a high, bold point, with deep water close to 'the shore. At 5^ miles S. by E. f E., from the point, is a small pointed rock, about 5 feet high, with deep water round it, and 3 J miles S. by W. from this rock is Gob Gai, a round island 100 feet high covered with trees, with deep water around it. About 8 miles W. ^ N. from Goh Gai and 4 miles S.E. by E. i E. from the south-east point of Junkseylon, is Goh Mai Tan (il/a/ay Pulo Bambo) ; a narrow island, IJ miles long, of moderate height and covered with trees. At one cable off its south point lies a group of rocks partly visible, with deep water close to them. The north-east coast of this island forms a sandy bay, which affords some shelter in the south-west monsoon, in depths of 6 and 7 fathoms. The north point is low and sandy having a rock, which is always visible, off the extreme. Within half a. mile of this island are depths of from 10 to 15 fathoms all round it.. Goh. Dakmai, a high, square, almost perpendicular island, lies N.E. by E. ^ E. from the north point of Goh Mai Tan, and there is deep water round it. There is a safe channel for vessels coming from the south- east and bound to Puket, to the south of Goh Gai, and then in between CHAP. I.] ISLANDS EASTWAKD OF JUNKSEYLON. 43 Groh Mai Tan and Goh Dakmai: When about one mile off the north point of Goh Mai Tan, a N.W. by W.. course will lead up to the entrance of Puket harbour. GOH JAO NOI is about 500 feet high, and thickly wooded, lying to the northward of Goh Jao Jai, from which it is separated by a channel a quarter to \^ miles in breadth. In the western part of the channel are depths of 3, 4, and 5 fathoms along the Goh Jao Jai shore ; towards the middle of the channel the water shoals to 2 and 1^ fathoms, and in the eastern part it deepens again to 4 and 5 fathoms. About half a mile north- west from Lem Sam is a rock about 10 feet high, to the south of which are depths of 5 and 6 fathoms. Lem Sam is a very low sandy point, with a bank extending from it in a north-easterly direction; to the northward 6i the bank is a depth of 5 fathoms, and to the eastward of it 7 and 8 fathoms for about half a mile ; it then shoals to 2 and 3 fathoms, filling up the space between Goh Rang Nok and Goh Deng (two small islands about 1^ miles to the northward of Goh Rang Nak) ; about one mile east of these islands are depths of 6 and 7 fathoms. The ?ast coast extends north and south and nearly in a line with the east coast of Goh Jao Jai. About 3 cables off the south-east point (Lem Sai) are two small islands (Goh Deng), surrounded by sandbanks and connected with the main island by a reef. To the north of these islands the coast is perfectly clear, with 5 and 6 fathoms close to the shore, and from 9 to 10 fathoms about one mile off. About 2 miles off the coast is an extensive group of islands, all very high and bold, and almost without exception steep-to. The southernmost of the group is named Goh Gaman. Between these islands and Goh Jao Jai is a safe channel with depths of 10 and 12 fathoms. The flood-stream in this channel sets to the northward, the ebb to the southward, at the rate of about 2 or 3 miles an hour. The south coast trends in a W.N.W. direction ; it is mostly low and wooded, and there are large sand and mud banks extending along the whole length of it. I'he west point is connected by a reef with a small island (Goh Jung), to the north-west of which is a large high island, Goh Boi Jai, with deep water on its west side ; between this island and Goh Jung there is a depth of 1^ fathoms and the bottom is rocky. Goh Boi Nai, two small, round islands, about half a mile north of Goh Boi Jai, are surrounded by shallow water, and between them there is a depth of 1-^ fathoms. Goh Bantan, a larger island, about one mile north of Goh Boi Jai, is about 200 feet high, and has deep water on its west and north sides. (Joh. Plong, about one mile north from the west point of Goh Jao Noi, is surrounded by rocks and sand-banks. 44 MALACCA STRAIT. MALAY COAST. [ohaim. Lem Dakmai, the north point of Goh Jao Noi, has several islands o£E it; immediately to the northward are two- high, perpendicular islands (Goh Doda) which can be passed on both sides, but the channel north of them is generally used, as it is the broader ; in it the depth is 7 fathoms. About one mile East from Goh Doda are two high, perpendicular rocks named Goh Thalu ; between Lem Dakmai and Doda is a depth of 7 fathoms. Goh Broi and Goh Batang are two high, bold islands north- west of Lem Dakmai ; Goh Broi has deep water on its north and east sides, Goh Batang on its south and east sides ; on the other sides of both are extensive sand-banks with shallow water. Northward of Goh Doda lies a group of islands, the principal of which are Goh Bantae, Goh Klui, Goh Tyung Lat, and Goh Fai Mai. Goh Bantae and Tyung Lat are small, rocky islands ; Goh Klui and Goh Fai Mai are large, high islands, bold and steep-to. Westward of this group is a good channel with from 7 to 10 fathoms water, leading between Goh Ganam and Goh Klui ; this channel runs nearly N.W. by N., and is the usual passage up to Goh Mak. Goh Mak {Betelnut island), is a low, wooded island, about 1^ miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad, in latitude 8" 16' N. It is surrounded on the north, west, and south sides by extensive sand-banks, but has deep water on the east side where vessels may anchor within a cable or two from the island in from 6 to 10 fathoms. The Eajah of Panga has a house here, and good water is plentiful. The best water is to be obtained on the north-east side of the island, and at high water boats can go close up to the well. Poultry, vegetables, and fruit can also be procured. The whole space between Goh Mak, Goh Jao Noi, and Goh Boi is full of sandbanks and rocks, parts of which are visible only at low water. From the northern point of Goh Bantan (an island to the northward of Goh Boi Jai) there is a channel to the eastward, in which the depth is H fathoms at low-water springs. Tiiis channel is not often used ; vessels generally go round the east coast of Goh Jao Jai and to the northward of Goh Jao Noi. In the bay northward of Goh Jao Noi, besides many small there are three tolerably large rivers : the Takuatung, the Panga, and the Paklan rivers. THE COAST. — Takuatung river lies near the head of the deep bay, lying to the north-eastward of Junkseylon. It may be ap- proached from the southward to within 2 miles of its mouth, by passing between several islands, Goh Boi Jai and Goh Bantan on the one side, and on the other side an extensive group of very high, bold islands, 500 to 1,000 feet in height, lying along the coast of the mainland. The largest of these islands, Goh Tyanak, about 2^ miles westwai'd of Goh Bantan, is <:iiAP. I.] COAST EASTWARD OP JUNKSEYLON. 45 about 2 miles long and 500 feet high. The space between this group of islands and the mainland is encumbered with rocks and sand-banks, some of which are visible at low water. Vessels from Puket bound to Takuatung should, after passing Lem Nga at about one mile off, keep in about mid-channel between GohTjanak and Goh Bantan, where there is a depth of 10 fathoms; from here a North course leads up to the entrance to the river, the water shoaling gradually. Vessels may anchor in from 3 to 4 fathoms, at low water at 2 miles from the mouth. Both outside and in the mouth of the river are large sandbanks, between which there is a channel with from 2 to 3 fathoms >vateri The channel takes a N.N.E. direction as far as, and close to, two small islands (Goh Nam Sao), the only islands on the starboard side going in. Thence the channel trends N.N.W. and is narrow. At 4 miles up the river is the town of Kasom, where the Bajah of Takuatung resides, and whence a large quantity of tin is exported. At the mouth of the river is the high, bold island Goh Panji, and for a short distance up are depths of 3 or 4 fathoms. Fanga river is situated 3 miles eastward of Takuatung river. The •channel entrance is marked by stakes ; at 4 miles within is the custom house and landing place. Supplies can be procured. Faklan river lies 4 miles eastward of Panga river, and in the north-east comer of the bay ; between this river and Goh Mak there is a good channel with deep water. From Goh Mak steer to pass eastward of a small rock 20 feet high, which lies 1;^ miles north-east from Goh Mak, after passing which borrow on the mainland side to avoid the sandbanks extending south- ward from the westernmost of two high, bold islands (Goh Song Phi Nong), which lie about 2 miles south-west from the mouth of the river. Pass between the islands and then steer straight for the river. Outside the river there is a bar with a depth of 2 fathoms at low water in the fair- way, but inside there are depths of 5, 4, and 3 fathoms for a considerable distance. Ban Paklan, the Rajah of Paklan's residence, is situated 6 miles up the river. Lem Sak, about 5 miles northward of Goh Jao Noi, is high, bold land, but the point itself is low, sandy, and covered with trees. Beefs and sandbanks, partly visible at low-water, extend about one mile from the point ; between this point and Lem Deng is a large but shallow bay. Lem Deng is a high, bold point to the south-east of Lem Sak ; east- ward of it is a bay partly filled with high rocky islands. From Lem Deng the coast of the mainland takes a S.S.E. direction for about 11 or 12 miles to Lem Hua Nak. In the middle of this coast is Lem Din Deng, a point from which rocks extend to some distance. North-west of Lem Din Deng are, large, groups of high, bold islands, between which and the mainland is 46 MALACCA STRAIT.— MAl/AY COAST, [onkp. i. shallow water of fi-om one to 2 fathoms. On these islands the natives collect edible birds' nests. From Lem Din Deng towards Lem Hua Nak the coast is clear, and the water deepens gradually from 3 fathoms at one mile south of Lem Din Deng, to 10 fathoms off Lem Hua Nak. EOBEIE BAY.— To the southward of Leni Hua Nak is a group of small islands^ the largest of which are Goh Damhok and Goh Datngoa, both high and bold. To the south-eastward of the point the coast forms Korbie bay, the entrance to which is between Lem Hua Nak and' Goh Damhok and Datngoa ; the watet shoals gradually from th6 entrance, to 3 fathoms at about 2 miles W.S.W. from the mouth of Korbie riv6r.' Eorbie river is the middle one of three in the north part of the bay ; it leads up to a town of the same name, the residence of a rajah. South- east of Korbie river is Pakasi, another large river, in the mouth of which are depths of 4 or 5 fathoms, but there are large sandbanks outside. A channel in which is a depth of 2 fathoms runs from the mouth of the river straight to the westward. Supplies. — Coal. — There is a large export of poultry and vegetables from Korbie, and coal in considerable quantities is found here. GrOh. IiUang. — Lem Luang is the north-west point of a large island of the same name, situate about 13 miles south-eastward of Lem Hua Nak ; it is separated from the mainland by a broad but shallow strait, at the entrance to which is a small island. To the westward of Lem Luang there is deep water, 10 to 20 fathoms, but to the north and south there are sand- banks. Goh Luang is mostly low, but the cape is high and pointed. Between Goh Luang and Goh Pipidou there are said to be some rock? just covered at low-water spring tides. Goh. Laduja/Ug is a large square island to the east and south-east of Goh Luang, being separated from the latter and the mainland by a channel, one to 2 miles broad, with from one to 3 fathoms of water. Goh Ladujang is mostly low land, covered with jungle, and with but few inhabitants. VOGEL ISLANDS. — The Vogels are a group of islands lying to the south-west of Korbie bay. The group consists of one large, and five small islands. To the northward of the large island are two small islands, Goh Jung and Goh Mapai, and to the southward a long high island, Goh Pipithall; besides these there are two small islands. (Joll Pipidon, the largest of the Vogels, is a high, wooded island, 4 miles long, 2 miles broad,' and steep cloB^ to the west side, the south end of which is highest and forms a ctfeej) 'bay with 6 to 7 fathoms close in shore. Extending about half a ihile frdm the south-east point there is a reef surrounded by a large sand-bank; this reef is- always visible. Between Goh Pipidon and Goh' Pipithall there is a channel' with 10 to 12 fathoms water; At 8 miles S.E. by S. of Goh Pipidon there caw.r.] KOBBIE BAT. — KLAT DUJANG. 47 lies a small round island, Goh Ma ; and from one to 4 miles W.N.W. from this island there are two large groups of rock^ covered at high water. PILGRIMS are a group of five islands lying 13 miles S. by E. from Goh Ma; they are all small, whitish-looking islands, bold and steep-to, having from 20 to 24 fathoms within one mile. They are not visible at night as clearly as the other islands along this coast on account of their white colour. The largest of the Pilgrims is called Goh Hadji. PULO RAJAH (Saya). — This island, situated 5 miles N. by E. I E. from North 'Brother island, rises to a height of 1,064 feet in the south-western parts, while the north-east side is low.* Gulnare cove, at the north-west point is about half a mile deep by a quarter of a mile wide, having 9 fathoms sandy bottom in the centre. There is another small inlet on the north side of Pulo Eajah, where a stream empties itself. Overfalls. — There are heavy overfalls between Pulo Eajah and the Brothers islands. BROTHERS ISLANDS, situated about 15 miles southward of Junkseylon, are densely wooded, steep-to, and nearly connected by a reef. The northern island, 517 feet high, has a detached rock lying 3 J cables off the north extreme. The southern island, 239 feet high, is of nearly a uniform height on the summit, and a reef extends about one cable from the south point. CurreutS. — Southward of Junkseylon during the north-east monsoon the current sets N.W. ; during the south-west monsoon it sets S.E., but if the wind has been strong from west or W.N.W., the current will run nearly east, southward of the Brothers islands. KLAT DTJJANG— Goh Tingsing, to the southward of Gph Ladujang, is separated from it by a channel nearly one mile broad named Xlat Diijang in which there are said to be depths of 3 to 4 fathoms. Groh Tingsing is higher than Goh Ladujang and also densely wooded. In the eastern entrance to this channel lies a group of islands, the largest of which is Goh Krapu, high and steep-to ; the deepest channel runs close along the west side of the island, then round the north point between it and a small island to the north ; and then, close along the east side of Croh Krapu; this channel has 2 to 4 fathoms at low water. At the west entrance of Klat Dujang channel lies an extensive sand- bank, partly dry, on the south side of which there is a passage out to sea with 1^ or 2 fathoms at low water. * Information relating to the outlying islands of Malacca strait from Pulo Bajah Jo Pulo Penang is from Commander Hon. B". C. P. Vereker, H.M. Surveying Vessel Magpie, 1883-4. 48 MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. [chap. i. PULO LANTAR is a large high island to the southward of Goh Tingsing, and only separated from it by a narrow creek running in a north- west direction, but with very little water. The west sides of these islands and Ladujaug, extend in a line nearly north and south. From seaward they appear as one island, the creek just described not being visible, and the sand-banks in the entrance of Klat Dujang filling up the whole entrance of the channel. The west coast of Pulo Lautar is steep-to, and between this island and Vogels and Pilgrims there is a channel with from 16 to 24 fathoms water. Along the east sides of Pulo Lantar and Goh Tingsing are several small, high^ and wooded islands. To the south-east of Goh Eekam, the middle island of the group, lies a rock about one mile distant which is always visible, looking like two square sails standing out of the water. Between these islands and the sand-banks extending from the mainland, is a channel with depths shoaling gradually from 8 fathoms at the south point of Pulo Lantar, to 3 fathoms eastward of Klat Dujang. Goh Khai, Goh Ganja, and Goh Libsig, with several other small islands form a group to the eastward of Pulo Lantar, .and close to the mainland. South-eastward of Lantar lies a group of islands, the largest of which are Goh Ngai, Goh"Muk, and Goh Kadan. Goh l^gSi is a long and high island with soundings of 10 fathoms within one mile ; reefs extend from its north and south points, but only to a short distance. Goh Muk is a square high island to the eastward of Goh Ngai, and its eastern side has a low and sandy shore. From the mainland opposite large sand-banks extend, and between these and Goh Muk, close to the island, is a channel having, in the shallowjgst part, 1| fathoms at low-water spring tides. "With Goh Muk bearing West, distant one mile, vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms, sand. Goh Ma (Horse island), Goh Kram, and Goh Kleing are small high islands between Goh Ngai and Goh Muk. Goh Kadan, a long, narrow, and high i.sland southward of Goh Ma (Horse), has deep water on its north and west sides. From the south point •of Goh Kadan reefs extend for several miles ; they are partly covered at low water, and are all covered at half tide. GOH LIBONG (Pulo Telibon) is a large triangular island About 20 miles south-eastward of Pulo I/antar. The west and south sides of Libong are high, but the north and east sides very low. To the northwai-d it is separated from the mainland by a channel one or 2 miles liroad. In the western half of this channel there is a passage with 3, 4, and 5 fathoms on the Libong side ; but in the eastern half the passage is narrow and runs between large sand-banks ; the deepest water, namely, cHAiM.] puLO LA.NTAR. — TRANG BIVEK. 49 2- to 3 fathoms, runs also close along the Libong side. When the north- east point of Libong is passed, the passage runs nearly E. by N. between two large sand-banks, the one extending from the north-east point of Libong, the other from a small island which lies 1^ miles to the north-east of Goh Nak ; these banks are both dry at low-water spring tides, and the depth in the channel is then If fathoms.* Goh Kung, a small rocky island off the south-west point of Goh Libong, is connected with that island by a reef, which dries at low water. Banks.— Between the bearings of W.S.W. and W.N.W., from the south point of Goh Libong, aud from 3 to 5 miles off, there lies a group of rocks sairought , down from the hills. There are two good fresh-water streams in the bay on the east side of entrance of Lukut river. , , i: . i. ■ i ■ ■ , : • At one mile north of Tanjong Kamuning is Pulo Burong, a small islet skirted by rocks and surrounded by shoal water. Half a mile south of Tanjong Kamuning iS Pulo Arrang Arrang, a similar island skirted bv rocks and standing on the bank fringing the shore. Bambek Shoal is situated nearly midway between Parcelar point and cape Bachada, at 3 miles from the shore. The shpal i^ dry near its centre, composed of hard sand, and within a depth of 18 feet is 2 miles long in a direction parallel to the coast, and 7 cables broad; it is steep-to, the water deepening suddenly to 8 or 10 fathoms within one cable. Between Bambek shoal and the nearest part of the shore, is a small bank of 3 J to 10 fathoms, irregular soundings, between which and the'shore there is a deep channel, one mUe wide. Westward of the north-west extremity of Bambek shoal are two banks' of 8 and 10 fathoms, distant from the dry patch 1\ and 5^ miles respectively. Four miles eastward from the dry part of Bambek shoal is the north-west extreme of a sand bank from a half to one mile wide, which extends nearly to cape Eachada ; the bank is 9 miles long, has a di-y patch nearly in the centre, and a depth of from 1^ to 5 fathoms. Between the babk and the shore there is a passage half a mile wide. Vessfels should not bring cape Kachada lighthouse to bear southward of S.E. by E. \ E., nor lose sight of the bright light at night, bearing S.E. by E. f E., to ensure passing southward of Bambek shoal, and the shoals inshore of it. CAPE RACHADA (TANJONG TUAN) is a steep bluff point, covered with' trees, and easily distinguished, as it is higher than the' adjacent coast, and appears when first seen in the distance like an island. Vessels may boldly approach the cape, there being deep watei- a quarter of a mile distant. Near the cape there are tWo fresh^vater wells. p 2 84s MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. [ohap. i. From cape Rachada the low woody coast of Sumatra, distant 20 miles, may be seen, the strait being here more contracted than at any other part north of Malacca. Tides. — Off cape Rachada the flood sets to the southward, the ebb to the northward ; both streams are very strong and pass the cape in noisy ripplings. LIGHT. — On cape Eachada stands a round tower painted white, 78 feet high, which exhibits at an elevation of 446 feet above the level of the sea, a fixed white light visible from seaward between the bearings of S.E. by E. and N.W. by W. In clear weather the light ghould be seen from a distance of 26 miles. The limit of the light to the northward passes over the centre of Bambek shoal, and touches Parcelar point ; and the limit of the light to the southward leads half a mile south- west of Diana rock. AROA ISLANDS are a group of small islands lying nearly ■ mid-channel between Sumatra coast and the North Sands ; they are spread over a space of 9 miles in extent. These islands are situated on a bank of 6 to 10 fathoms, the northern end of which extends 6 miles north- westward of the islands, and the southern joins an extensive mud bank adjacent to the Sumatra shore; Aroa bank is steep-to on the north, east, and west sides, the depths suddenly increasing to 18 and 20 fathoms. North, rock, the northern islet, is small, of considerable height, and has a surrounding reef. Long Aroa or (Pulo Jummur) lies nearly 3 miles south-west from North rock ; it is two-thirds of a mile long, 400 yards broad, flat, and covered with trees. At 2 cables north-east of Long Aroa are two small islets nearly joined, and having a reef of rocks which extends three- -quarters of a mile north-east of them. Malay fishermen sometimes visit Long Aroa to fish and procure turtle. There is a small spring of fresh water in Long Aroa, but not sufficiently large to water a vessel from. In the rainy season, in the months of October to January, an abundance of water may be found, there being in the island several natural tanks which dry in the hot season. The best watering place is on the western side, which is clear, and a vessel may anchor close to the island in 6 or 8 fathoms mud, with the highest pan of the island being North. Western Aroa, or group of islets, three-quarters of a mile west- ward of Long Aroa, are five in number, namely, Tekong Mass, Pulo Rendang, Pasir Panjang, Labnan Biti, Tukong Chama, and occupy a «pace of 1 ^ miles ; they are all connected by a reef nearly dry at low water and extending half a mile N.N.W. of them. CHAP. I.] . AROA ISLANDS. — NORTH SANDS. 85 BatU Balia, a group of six rocks surrounded by a circular reef, is half a mile in diameter ; they lie 3^ miles eastward from Long Aroa. A rock which covers at half tide lies If miles East of Batu Balia, and has 17 fathoms close-to. East Rock, or Batu Mandi, lying 6| miles eastward of Long i^roa, is low and flat, with depths of 16 or 18 fathoms within one cable. Round Aroa or Tekong Simbang, is the highest of the Aroa group ; its summit is covered with trees and may be seen from a distance of 15 miles. There are several rocky islets near. Round Aroa with its outlying islets occupy a space of If miles north and south, and three- quarters of a mile east and west; the southern islet is named Pul» Tekong. Tides. — The tides at Aroa islands are very irregular, especially during neaps, when there appears to be a constant stream setting to the north- west, slacking only towards the time of high water ; although the direction and duration of the tides are so irregular, there is still a regular rise and fall of 14 feet at springs and 9 feet at neaps. Caution. — Much care is requisite in approaching Aroa islands during the night as many of them are low, and difficult to see after dark. NORTH SANDS comprise various sand-banks and spits extending from the Malay coast between Selangor river and Parcelar hill towards Aroa islands. The sand-banks have a general north-west and south-east direction, and depths of 6 to 20 fathoms water between them. The north- west extremity of the sands is on the parallel and 25 miles west of Bukit Jerom, situated 6 miles southward from Selangor; a narrow strip of sand-bank, having depths varying from 7 fathoms to nearly dry, extends thence in a south-easterly direction a distance of 12 miles ; the southern- half of this shoal is named Batu Kinching, and has a dry spot about one mile from its southern end. These banks and patches are usually, discernible during daylight.* Bleinheim Shoal, having 4 feet least water, is about 2 miles in length, and lies 5 miles south-west of Batu Kinching, and about 1 1 miles northward of One-fathom bank lighthouse. Coming from the northward it should be carefully avoided, passing well to the westward. Banks. — A bank with 2^ fathoms lies between the Blenheim and Batu Kinching. , At 8 miles eastward of Blenheim shoal is a bank 3 miles long, and 7 feet least water. Five miles southward of Blenheim shoal, in the direction of One-fathom bank, is a patch of 3^ fathoms, and 3 miles south- east of this, is a patch of the same depth. Between Blenheim shoal and the " See Admiralty chart : — Malacca Strait, North and South Sands, Nob. 794a and 86 M^IiACOA STEAIT,— MA.LAy COAST. [ohap.i. bauks.just mentioned, and the flat eajtending noi-thward from Pulp Klang, are other shoal banks, the positions of which are best seen on the chart. One-fathona Bank, on which is a liglithouse, js the most prominent of the North Sand banks ; it is 2 miles in length, and has from 6 to 16 feet water. Westward and eastward of One-fathom bank the soundings deepen quickly to 10 and 13 fathoms. North-westward the bank extends 8 rniles, with depths of 4 to 8 fathoms. A patch of 3^ fathoms lies about 8 miles south-westward from the lighthouse. LIGHT.— An iron screw- pile light tower, painted in bands ^ of red and slate colour, is situated on One-fathom bank about half a mile east- ward of the shoalest part, and the same distance from the south esxt^eme. From the tower is exhibited a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every minute ; it is elevated 61 feet above the level of the sea, and in clear weather should be visible from a distance of 13 miles. A bell is rung in thick weather. CliaUIiels. — There is a deep channel between the bank which extends from Pulo Klang and the eastern side of North Sands, but unless it were buoyed it would be dangerous for large vessels to use it, as no bearings can be given to direct them. Coasting vessels use this channel, keeping on the edge' of Pulo Klang bank in 4 and 5 fathoms. The channel between the north-west extreme of North Sands and Aroa islands ia deep, there being from 20 to 60 fathoms^mud, the depths decreasing as the islands are brought to bear about West. The deep water extends to within 5 miles of North rock, Aroa islands, and close to East rock. SOUTH SANDS are of similar formation to North Sands, and extend across to the Sumatra coast. There are several extensive dry banks between the part surveyed and the Sumatra shore, between which are narrow and intricate channels. The neighbourhood of South Sands may be considered as the most dangerous part of Malacca strait, there being no near, objects from which bearings can be given for vessels working through, to clear the numerous dangers. ■ The eastern edge of South Sands forming the western side of the navigable, channel through Malacca strait extend about ' 40 miles in an E.S.E. direption, from a position i 7 miles south of One-fathom bank, and are distant from the Malay coast 12 or IS miles.* The northei-n shoal head, of i2J Athoms, lies 10^ miles S. by E. ^ E. from Onfeifathbm bank lighthouse. ,; >: . *"Tlie easfe'rn"eage orSbutETSands is said to have extended about one mile farther saBt than is shown OD the present charts.— 1877. CHAP. I.] NORTH AND SOUTH SANDS. — LENGET RIVER. 87 PSrramid Shoal, the eastera extreme of the South Sands chain, is the most dangerous, standing out beyond the others a distance of 4 miles nearer the track of vessels. The shoal is about one mile long, and' has one fathom least water, bottom hard sand. Bambek shoal, the nearest danger on the other side of the fairway track, bears N.E. by E. ^E. distant 12 miles from Pyramid shoal ; Rachada light bearing E. by S. leads about 2 miles northward of Pyramid shoal. Buoy proposed.* Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, from 5h. 30m. at the head of the North sands, to 6h. at One-fathom bank and on the South sands. During springs the tides are regular, running N.W. and S.E. on the North sands ; W.N.W. and E.S.E. on the South sands at the rate of 3 to 3^ miles an hour, and run from two to three hours after the time of high and of low water. The flood stream comes from the north-westward. During neaps the tides are weak and irregular. Springs rise 15 feel, neaps 12 feet. DIRECTIONS. — Vessels from the northward should make One- fathom lighthouse bearing about E.S.E., and passing about 3 miles westward and southward of it, should then haul to the eastward toward Tanjong Parcelar, passing it at the distance of S miles ; maintaining this distance off shore will clear Bambek shoal, as will also Kachada lighthouse, bearing S.E. by E. -J E., or more eastward. In working to windward they should not stand farther off the coast than 10 miles, nor nearer inshore than 3 miles when between cape Eachada andi Bambek shoal. The depths near the banks are so irregular that they afford no guide as to the proximity, of those dangers. At night. — Vessels should keep Kachada light bearing epstward of S.E. by E. ^ E., or the light in sightj showjng brightly, tp j?iy;oi(jl Bambek shoal. \ , ,i , ,, ^., .ji^ LINGE Y mVEB. — The entrance of this river is situated i? miles to the eastward of cape Eachada ; the coast between is fronted by a mud bank which extends off the bight westward of Bukit Salainit, a distance of 1;^ miles.' The river forms the western boundary of the British posses- sion of Malacca, and is navigable- for vessels of-8 or 9 feet draught* as far as Setnpang, about 5 mUes from the mbutfi, and for large boats for 4 or 3 miles beyond. At - Seinpang, where there is a police station, the tide rises 9 feet at springs.f AncllOrage.-^There is good anchorage off the entrance in 9 fathoms, mud, with Eachada lighthouse bearing ' W. by N. f ' N:, ai/d Bukit Salaihit-N. I E. - ' ■■> - * See Admiralty charts : — ^Malacca Btiaity Nci. 7946, anft:l,355; t Sfec Admiralty. chart i— No. 795rt, or;794fr, sc8les,»t = 0-5 of an inch. 88 MALACCA STRAIT. — MAIjAT COAST. [ohap. i. Beacons. — A beacon, with ball, is erected on the rock lying between the entrance points of the river. A police station stands on the east point, and a tree (whitewashed) marks the west point. Batu Mandi, a rock awash lying 1^ miles south-west of the entrance of Lingey river, is marked by a beacon. Batu Tinga, are three rocks just above water, lying 2 miles E.S.E. from Batu Mandi. Banks with 12, 9, and 11 fathoms, lie south-westward of Batu Tinga, at the distance of 2, 3, and 6 miles respectively. Directions. — The river should not be entered without a pilot, who may be procured at Malacca. The bar, with rocks on either side, has a depth- of 12 feet at high- water springs. The beacon rock in the entrance covers when there is a depth of 10 feet on the bar. From off the entrance the course is about N.E. by 'N., passing about 3 cables westward of the eastern point of the river, until the whitewashed tree bears E. by IST^ when it should be steered for until a conspicuous clump of trees is on with the rock beacon in the entrance ; from this position a solitary hill will be seen over the river, which should be steered for, passing about 50 yards or less northward of this beacon rock, as the water shoals rapidly fronv 7 fathoms to 3 or 4 feet westward of the north point ; thence there appears to be no difficulty in proceeding to within half a mile of kSempang, where there is anchorage in 4 fathoms, with plenty of room to swing.* The COAST. — From Lingey river the coast takes a south-east direction for 15 miles to Tanjong Kling. It consists mostly of irregular rocky points with occasional small sandy beaches.f Tanjong Kling is a low projecting point of land covered with high jungle and easily seen ; it is the north-west boundary of Malacca bay, and may be approached to half a mile. Diana rock is a large rock always abov e water, one mile from the- shore ; it lies S.E. by E. \ E., distant nearly 16 miles from cape Bachada lighthouse, which light is obscured when within half a mile of the rock. Inshore of Diana rock there are sevei-al other rocks ; a sandy ridge of 3| to 5 fathoms lies between a half and 2^ miles north-west of the rock. A shoal head of 2 feet lies 1 J miles south-eastward from Diana rock, and one mile off Tanjong Panchu. Several islets and a sunken rock also lie within half a mUe of this point. Raleigh Shoal, of 3^ fathoms, is about half a mile long, and lies S. by E. distant 18 miles from cape Bachada, and 9 miles fromPulo Euput on the Sumatra shore. The shoal is steep-to on its north side, on its other sides 4^ and 5 fathoms will be found within half a mile. A bank of 12 to * H.M.S. Foxhound, 1879, in charge of a pilot. t See Admiralty chart : — No. 7d9a, scale, m = 0*5 of an inch. «HA^-J] LINGET KIVER. — MALA.CCA. 89 15 fathoms extends from 8 to 10 miles in a north-west direction from Ealeigh shoal. MALACCA is a free port. The town is built on either side of a small river of that name, and is the seat of government of the British settlement of Malacca. The river is spanned by several bridges. The country a few miles inland is formed of undulating hills, moderately elevated, named Malacca hills, and 20 miles E.N.E. of them is Gunong Ledang or Mount Ophir, having a triple peak, 3,840 feet high ; the coast and land adjacent to the town are low and wooded. On the left bank of the river is St. Paul hill, surrounded by the remains of an old fort. On the summit of the hill stand the ruins of the ancient church of Our Lady del Monte, erected by Albuquerque, and the scene of the labours of St. Francis Xavier ; also the lighthouse and flagstaff. Around the base of the hill lie the barracks, court house, church, hospitals', post office, harbour master's office, aad other public buildings. A little to (he south rises the hill of St. John's, and in the rear of it that of St. Francis; on these eminences are the remains of batteries erected by the Portuguese and Dutch ; smaller knolls intervetie covered with extensive Chinese cemeteries. The larger part of the town, including the bazaars, are situated on the right bank of the river. The principal public institution in Malacca is the Anglo-Chinese college, established for the instruction chiefly of Chinese and Malays ; there are also many schools for Chinese and Hindus. The lighthouse flagstaff is in lat. 2° 11' 30" N., long. 102° 15' 33" E. Population. — The population of the settlement of Malacca in 1381 was as follows: Europeans, 40; Malays, 67,513; Chinese, 19,741 ; natives of India, 1,891, a total of 93,579. The town is reported to be healthy. There is a government hospital for all classes. Trade. — The chief exports comprise tin, rice, tapioca, pepper, nutmegs, mace, sago, rice, buffalo bides, and horns, rattans, gutta, gum, coffee, and opium. The united value of the exports and imports of Malacca in 1883 was about 1,500,000^. The number of vessels that entered the port in 1884 was 857, with a tonnage of 180,000. Supplies. — Malacca is convenient for vessels requiring water and supplies. Water is obtained on application to the harbour master ; and fish, yams, grain, sago, and a variety of fruits maybe obtained at moderate prices ; also poultry, hogs, buffialoes. Poon spars from Siak river suitable for masts may be procured. A small quantity of coal is kept for the- goverment steam launch only. Communication. — Malacca is in connection with Singapore and Penang by submarine cable. There is constant steam communication with the other Strait Settlements. 90 MAIiACCA STRAIT. — -MALAY COAST. [chaf. r. LIGHTS. — On the summit of St. Paul hill from a -whitesquateitow^er 90 feet high, is exhibited at an elevation of 180 feet above the seaa"./?a!erf white light, visible in clear weather seaward, between thfi-beaiaBgLaf.M:.W. and S.E., from a distance of 12 to 15 miles. See also P-ulo Undau light on page 92. Prom the pier head at Malacca is exhibited a fixed rctf light, "visible from a distance of 7 miles. River.— The entrance to Malacca river is nearly' dry ^t low water, being obstructed by a bank of soft mud, which extends 1^ miles from the shore, with 18 feet on its outer edge. The river is spanned by several bridges, and a pier extends a quarter of a mile seaward from, the entrance. The channel over the bar is marked by stakes, and boats can enter the river about a quarter flood. A small boat can with dilficulty go alongside the pier at low water. An iron pile pier 1,200 feet'lorig is about to be constructed. Fisher islet, situated 2| miles westward of Malacca town, and 1^ miles from the shore, is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and situated on the outer edge of the mud bank which skirts the shore; the islet is of moderate height, its top covered with trees and easily discerned: A patch of 18 feet lies about half a mile southward of the east point of the islet. At night, vessels should not -approach this islet to a less depth than .15 fathoms. Pulo Java, or Eed island, is coraposed of two islets, nearly joined^ It is about 4 cables in extent, and lies threa-quarters of a mile."soiifeh-east of the river, and on the edge of the mud bank. There is a IjeaGon" on the islet situated 2 cables seaward of Pulo Java. Pulo Panjang, a narrow rocky flat half a mile in extent, lies nearly one mile south-south-eastward from Pulo Java, and about the same distance off shore ; it is steep-to on its south side, but on the inner side theiwatpr is shoal. " . [~ Pulo Panjang is marked by three white. stone beacons, each, surpaounte^ by a diamond top, namely, one at the north extreme, one at the. we^t, .an^ the other at the east extreme of the islet. , , ■, ,' - Aucliorage. — The best anchorage in Malacca road is. in 8 f athoj^^ with the fort bearing N.E., and about 2 miles off shore, or with .Pulo Anjote' and Pulo Undan (Water islands) in line bearing S.E. ; (3^he soundings deepen quickly to 7 and 8 fathoms outside.ctheyCQ.ast (baltki Und'era depth of lOi fathoms the^ bottom is; chiefly of mud ; rexceeding ,tito| depth it is, a stiff tenacious clay. On the east side of the toadrthe bottonj is rocky. ' ;;• Small vessels may lie closer in, with Tanjong Kling just open inside of Fisher island, and the flagstaff bearing N.E. The depth here is, 2| fathoms mud, at low-water springs. '■ •-'- CHAP.!.] MAIiACOA.-^WATEK ISLANDS. 91 The sea-worm, in this , road is vefy destructive to vessels, or, boats not having copper sheathing. Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Malacca road at 7h. 30m. ; springs rise 11 feet, neaps 8^ feet. ' The tidal streams have a rate of 2 knots, and continne to run two or three hours after high and low water respec- tively. The flood stream comes from the northward. Winds. — Malacca road is neither visited by the hurricanes of higher latitudes, nor is it within the influence of the monsoons of the adjacent seas ; but during the period of the south-west monsoon in the China sea, sudden hard squalls frequently blow into the road from the Sumatra side in the night, accompanied with lightning, thunder, and rain. These winds, called " Sumatras," generally commence to blow at seven or eight in the evening, and attain their greatest strength at midnight. Directions. — Malacca road is included in the space lying seaward of a line joining Ksher islet and Pulo Panjang, and is a safe anchorage. In approaching from seaward, the first object that strike the eye are a cluster of trees crowning the summit of St. Francis hill, the lighthouse and ruinous church on St. Paul'Sj and the white edifices which skirting its base, and extending along the seashore, are gradually lost in the thick groves of cocoanut trees which cover the dwellings of the Chinese and Malays. In the background rise the Malacca hills, and in the distance the triple peak of Mount Ophir. The road may be safely approached, as there is no sunken danger beyond the mud bank skirting the shore, except the 3 fathoms patch lying half a mile southward of Fisher islet. Yessels approaching from the southward at night will make Pulo Undan light, and passing southward of it, and westward of Pulo A'njote, bring these islands in line astern, or the light bearing S.E., which will lead to the anchorage, and well clear southward of Pulo Panjang, which is steep to and marked by white beacons. Pulo Undan light will also be seen when approaching the road from the northward. WATER ISLANDS are a group of six, lying south-feastward of Malacca. Pulo Undan, the outer island, lies about S.E. by S. 10 miles from Malacca lighthouse, and 5^ miles from the nearest shore. The islands are of moderate height, round, and covered with trees. Inshore of Pulo Besar the largest island, the bottom is foul and rocky, but between the others there are depths of 10 to 20 fathoms. A shoal of 2 to' 3 fethoms water extends one mile north and north-west of Pulo Besar, and between th»t. island a,ndPplp Srinbong. ! The ehannel betweea Pulo Dodole i and Pulo Besar has a dangerous rock of 1^ fathoms, nearly in mid-channel. Water.— On -Pulo Besar there are said to he several wells of good water. " 92 MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. tcH^v. i. LIGHT. — On the summit of Pulo Undan, from an octagonal red tower rising from the centre of a square two storeyed white building, is exhibited at an elevation of 155 feet above the sea, an occulting light showing at intervals of ten and twenty seconds, and visible from a distance of 20 miles in clear weather. Rob Roy Bank lies on the western side of the main channel through Malacca strait, and abreast the Water islands. Within a depth of 6 fathoms the bank is about 6 miles long. The shoalest spot of one fathom on its eastern end, lies with Pulo Undan lighthouse bearing N.E. by E. \ E. distant 17^ miles. Shoal heads of 2 to 3 fathoms extend thence about 3 miles in a north-westerly direction, deepening to 6 and &\ fathoms for a further distance of 2^ miles, and then to 12 and 14 fathoms. On the north and south sides the bank in nearly steep-to. The outer edge of an extensive mud bank which skirts the shore of Pulo Benkalis, approaches within 4 miles of the south side of Eob Koy bank. A shoal head of 4| fathoms lies 8 miles S.E. by E. | E. from the one- fathom patch on Rob Roy bank. This head is the centre of a narrow ridge 6 miles long, having depths of 5 to 8 fathoms. This ridge continues about 11 miles farther to the south-eastward, with depths of 9 to 15 fathoms. The COAST between Malacca and Tanjong Seginting near mount Formosa, a distance of 45 miles, trends south-eastward, forming two bays ; it is low, thickly wooded, and skirted by a mud bank which extends in some places 2\ miles off shore, and in the bight between Water islands and Moar river to 4 miles from the shore. Moar river, enters the strait at about 15 miles eastward of Water islands, and is the eastern boundary of the settlement of Malacca ; the entrance is narrow, and on account of the shallow flat which extends off its mouth, is only navigable by small vessels. The river, inside, is deep and wide. Bukit Moar is an isolated thickly wooded hill 5 miles south-eastward of the river entrance, and is visible from Malacca road. Tanjong Tor is a low projecting point of land, covered with jungle, at ] miles south-eastward from Moar river, and a useful mark for clearing Formosa bank. FORMOSA RIVER, or Sungi Batu Pahat, is fronted by a shallow flat, extending 3 miles off, and has only a depth of one foot at low water, near the entrance. The river, insitle, is deep. Mount Formosa, 1,480 feet high, is the summit of a small range of undulating hills, which terminate at Tanjong Seginting, and is visible from a considerable distance. A small island lies within a cable of the shore, west of the point. CHAP. I.] ROB BOY BANK. — ^PTJLO PISAN&. 93 Formosa Bank, lying off Formosa river, is 6 miles long in a north- west and south-east direction, 3 cables broad, and having depths of from 2 to 4 fathoms, hard black sand.* The east end of the shallow part of the bank lies with mount Formosa bearing N.E. J E., and 3^ miles off Tanjong Seginting ; a ridge with depths of 5 to 10 fathoms extends 7 miles north- west of the west extreme of the bank. LIGHT VESSEL.— At about 3 cables off the centre of the south side of Formosa bank, is a light vessel, moored in 1 1 fathoms, which exhibts at an elevation of 38 feet above the sea, a flashing light every half-minute, which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. During thick or foggy weather a gong is sounded. The vessel is painted yellow, and lies with mount Formosa bearing N.E. by E. \ E. distance 8 miles. The COAST from mount Formosa to Tanjong Bulus a distance of 47 miles, is low and thickly wooded, and abreast Pulo Pisang forms a bight 3 miles deep ; it is fronted by a shallow mud bank which extends one or 2 miles from the shore except between Pulo Pisaug and Pulo Oocob, where it extends nearly 6 miles from the shore. f Several creeks empty themselves into the sea in this tract of coast. Inside of a line joining Tanjong Seginting and Pulo Pisang, the bottom is uneven, with banks of . 3^ and 4 fathoms, and 6 to 8 fathoms close-to ; vessels therefore should keep outside the line. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, from 8h. 30m. off mount Formosa, to 9h. 30m. off Tanjong Bulus ; springs rise 10 or 11 feet, neaps 7 or 8 feet ; the streams run two or three hours after high and low water, the flood making to the south-eastward. PULO PISANG, is 200 feet high, one mile long, and covered with trees. The island is 7 miles off shore, 19 miles north-westward of Tanjong Bulus, and may be seen from a distance of 20 miles. A spit about half a mile wide, steep to and having a depth of 3 feet only near its extreme, extends 5 miles in a S.E. by S. direction from Pulo Pisang. A bank having depths of 3 to 4 fathoms extends 5 miles north- west of Pulo Pisang. LIGHT. — From a lighthouse 40 feet high, built of red brick, and with a white lantern, erected on the summit of Pulo Pisang, is exhibited at an elevation of 325 feet above the sea, a flashing white light every five seconds, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 30 miles. * Borings have been made on Formosa bank trith the object of finding a site for a lighthouse, but under a layer of 4 feet of sand, soft mud was found for a further depth of 20 feet. f See Admiralty chart, Malacca strait, No. 796. 94 MALACCA STKAIT.— MALAY COAST. [phap. i. Pair Clianuel Bank, a long and narrow bank stretching the whole distance between Formosa btok and Pulo Pisang,'is steep to, and has general depths of 9 to 12 fathoms ; a patch ' of 4f fathoms lies 5 miles from its south extremej with Piilo Pisang blBa;riag E. J N. distant 7 miles.' ■ > ' - '■ -■■"'' ' ' Long Bank lies on the southern side of the fairway, and is of a similar character and parallel to Fair channel bank,' bufshoalfer. j^V ' "; The wfestern extreme of the shoal portion, which hftsfrom 2f to Sfathoms over a distance of about' 18 mile's, lies nearly on the meridian and 16 miles southward of Tanjong Seginting. It is steep to on its north and south sides. Westward of Long bank are numerous similar banks extending to within a short distance of the fringing banks on the Sumatra side of the strait. It would be perplexing to the seaman to give any further description of these banks, the best idea of them is to be gained by studying the cliai;t. Pulo CoCOb is a low flat wooded island 2 miles long and 1-^ miles broad, lying 6 miles westward of Tanjong Bulus, and is separated from the coast by a narrow creek. The trees on the north-west side are of a bright green colour, and at the south-east end they are tall erect poon trees, like those on the adjoining coast. A sand-bank, dry at low water, extends 1^ miles off the north-west extreme. Tanjong Bulus or Euro, the south point of the Malay peninsula, is a broad semicircular tongue of low land having high trees on its western side and low bright green mangroves to the eastward. All the adjacent country is low with the exception of Gunong Pulai or Pontiana, an isolated mountain 2,150 feet high, situated 19 miles northward of the point. The edge of the mud bank dries at low water, and -lies one mile south of the east part of the point. It- is steep to, having 10 fathoms within 2 cables. From its southern point it trends west one mile, thence 'W.N.W. for Pulo Cocob. ; Caution. — In passing Tanjong Bulus and Pulo Cocob, caution must be exercised, as the flood tide sets strongly towards the bank.. Between the latter and Little Carimon island, Malacca strait is ,9^ miles wide and has, depths of 18 to 20 fathoms. ; - 95 CHAPTER II. , SINGAPORE STEAIT. Taxation 2° 40' l^ast, in'i886'.,' GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— Singapore strait is bounded on the north by the Malay peninsula and Singapore island, and on the south by the Bulang archipelago, and the large islands pf :Battam and Bentan. The entire length of the strait is about 60 miles. Its breadth, at the western entrance between Little Carimon island on the south side and Tanjong Bulus on the north is about 10 mMes, the main channejl of the strait, between Coney island and the islands to the southward, is barely 3 miles wide, and the eastern entrance, between Tanjong Brakit on Bentan island and Eamunia point on the Malay peninsula, is 20 miles broad.* Owing to the many dangers in Singapore strait, its navigation was formerly attended with much difficulty and anxiety, but such has ceased to be the case since, the erection, in 1851, of Eaffles lighthouse upon Coney island, and Horsburgh on Pedra Branca ro^ikjin the middle of the eastern entrance. These are well situated, so that with; common attention the strait can now be navigated either by day or by night, without risk or- delay. For the sake of convenient reference it has been thought best, in describing this strait, to divide it into four portions, viz., Singapore strait, vrestern piart; Singapore New harbour, town and "road ; Singapore strait, eastern part ; and Old strait of Singapore. The western part to comprise, a description of the strait from its western entrance to Singapore road, and the eastern part, from Singapore road to its ea'steffi Entrance. WESTERN PART OF smGAPbRE STEAIT.' SOUTH SHORE.— Tree island, or Pulo Angup, situ- ated about 10 miles within the westerm entrance .of, Singapore strait, is the north- westernmost of the islands and .dangers, which extend about 5 miles * See Admiralty charts : — Singapore _sticait,JS'Q.^,403, scale, m= 0-66 ineh.; Banka strait to Singapore, No. 2,757, scale, m=0-15 inch; China sea, No. 2,660a, scale, m^O'Oi inch ; and plan of Singapore Main strait. No. 2,404, scale, »i=l inch. 96 SIKGAPORE STRAIT. ^WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. in a south-easterly and north-westerly direction, and limit the southern «ide of Singapore Main strait. The islet, half a mile long in a north-west and south-east direction, is formed of rocks and sand, very little elevated above the sea at high water, and with a few mangrove trees. A stone beacon surmounted by a basket, both painted red, has been erected on the north-western edge of the reef, which is steep to, and extends nearly half a mile north-westward from Tree island ; Raffles lighthouse bears E. ^ N., 5-J- miles from the beacon.* In passing northward of Tree island, Baffles lighthouse should not be brought to the northward of East, which bearing will keep a vessel one- third of a mile northward of the reef. Kent rocks, between Red and Tree island reefs, lie north-west and south-east from each other, nearly half a mile apart. From the southern rock, which is the larger of the two, and has 2^ fathoms at low- water springs, the east extreme of Long island is in line with the centre of Red island, bearing S.E. by E., and Raffles lighthouse E.If.E. The northern rock is about 15 feet in length, with 6 feet water. The position of these rocks may easily be perceived when the tides run strong, by the ripplings over them. The depths close to, are 7 to 10 fathoms, deepening suddenly to 15 and 20 fathoms. The channel between the south-east rock and the reef surrounding Red island is one mile wide, with depths of 8 to 13 fathoms; that between the northern rock and Tree island reef is thi-ee -quarters of a mile wide, with depths of 12 to 20 fathoms. These rocks, however, render the passage between Red island and Tree island unsafe, and it ought not to 'be attempted. Red island, or PulO Falompang, is a mere islet or rock 20 feet high, covered with green trees, with a beach of red sand, lying 2| miles E.S.E. of Tree island. The reef which surrounds Red island, extends only a short distance on the east side, but projects more than half a mile on the west side. Reefs. — Two detached reefs lie in a .south-westerly direction from Red island, the outer and larger being distant nearly 1^ miles. Raffles lighthouse in line with the north-west extreme of Long island, leads to the eastward; Round island bearing E. by N. leads to the southward; and Tree island, bearing N.N.W., leads to the westward of these reefs. Long island or Tekong Besar, lis feet high, and lying three- quarters of a mile south-east of Red island, is similarly surrounded by reefs, and a small islet lies close to its north shore. * See Admiralty chart : — SiBgapore Main strait. No. 2,404, scale, m = 1 inch. CHAP. II.] TREE ISLAND. — MID-CHANNEL REEI". 97 Between tlio south-east side of Red island and the reef extending from Long island, is a channel about a third of a mile broad, with 8 to 17 fathoms water in it. Round island, or Tekong Kechil, is a small but elevated island, lying half a mile south-east of Long island. It is surrounded by reefs to the distance of a quarter of a mile. Long island and Round island are also known as the Brothers, both being covered with trees. Between Long island and Round island reefs, is a narrow channel, close to the south end of the former, with 11 to 13 fathoms water. Phillip channel is formed between Long and Round islands to the north-westward, and the numerous islands fronting Battam and Bulang islands to the south-eastward. It appears to be free from danger, with good anchorage, and is a short route for vessels proceeding to or from Singapore, through Durlan strait. See. directions, page 458. Cap island, so named from its appearance, is situated at the south entrance to PhiUip channel, 3f miles southward of Round island, and 2 miles westward from Steep cape. Cap island is a rock about 40 feet in height, with a flat top and perpendicular sides, surrounded by a reef to the distance of about 300 yards, near to which the depths are from 5 to 9 fathoms. Mid-Ch.annel reef, situated nearly midway between Cap island, and Steep cape the north-west extreme of Bulang island, is about three- quarters of a mile long north and south, and 1^ cables broad; there is a depth of 12 fathoms between Cap island and the reef, and 6 to IS fathoms between the reef and Steep cape. The Coast. — That psrt of the southern side of Singapore strait between Phillip channel, and the Sambo islands, a distance of 8 miles to the north-eastward, is formed of numerous islands lying on each side of the entrance of Salat Batu Hadji, which separates the islands of the Bulang archipelago, from Pulo Battam. The north-west coast of Battam comprises the islands and coast extend- ing from the entrance of Salat Batu Hadji, in a north-east direction to Tanjong Pingi a distance of 3 miles. Prom Tanjong Pingi the coast on the west side recedes south-south-eastward, forming a deep bay 1^ miles wide at the entrance, which, however, with the exception of a channel a quarter of a mile wide close to the point, is blocked by coral reefs. Tree island, at the entrance of this bay, is a third of a mile in extent, and stands on the edge of the reef which fronts the islets and coast from High point, at the entrance of Salat Batu Hadji. U 20665. G 98 SINGAPORE STBAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. Bulang N.W. islands are those outlying this part of the Bulang archipelago, and, together with Helen Mar reef, lie at the junction of Singapore strait and Phillip channel. Ganymede, the largest island, nearly a mile long north-west and south-east, and half a mile broad, is composed of a number of moderately elevated hills. Several islets lie off the main island, encircled by reefs. Little GanymedeS are two small islands half a mile westward of Ganymede island. They are connected with Ganymede by a reef which further extends 3 cables westward of them. Helen Mar reef is the outermost of the dangerous reefs which lie ofE the north-west end of Bulang. From this reef, which is steep- to, Round island bears W. by S. f S., distant 3^ miles, and Raffles lighthouse is just inside the left extremes of Alligator island bearing N.W. The south peak of Great Carimon in line with Red island W. | S. leads about half a mile northward of this dangerous shoal ; and Steep cape bearing S. ^ W., will lead half a mile westward of it. Two coral ledges, dry at low water and steep to, lie midway between Ganymede island and Helen Mar reef. Buflfalo Rock, or Token, 5 feet high, lying well out towards the fairway of the strait, is of a black colour, about 30 feet long, with depths of from 12 to 16 fathoms within a short distance. It bears S.W. by S. distant 4 miles from the south extreme of West St. John ; and E. ^ S. 4J miles from Raffles lighthouse. Between Buffalo rock and the reef extending south-eastward of Middle island, the strait is 2^ miles broad. Barren Island, the outer of the islets on the western side of the entrance to Salat Batu Hadji, is a mere rock, and bears S.E. f E. distant 1| miles from Buffalo rock. Close to Barren island are depths of 7 to 11 fathoms, and 12 to 14 fathoms between it and Buffalo rock ; northward of it the soundings are deep but irregular. Islets, reefs. — A short distance south-eastward and southward of Barren island are several similar islets, some of which have reefs extending off them. The two principal islands are known as High island and Pulu Urup. Midway between the southern ends of these is the northern part of another island, about twice as large as High island ; it is surrounded by an extensive reef, and has two small islets on each side of it. Further to the southward are many other islets and reefs which, however, are not in the way of the navigation of Singapore strait. Close to the reef surrounding the island last mentioned ia- the eastern end of a large reef which fills up the greater portion of the space between Pulu Urup and Ganymede island. Near the middle of the southern edge CHAP. H.] BTJIiANG ISLANDS. — PULO BLAKAN PAJDAN&. 99 of this reef is a small islet, from whicli the -western extreme of the reef bears W. by N., nearly three-quarters of a mile, and the northern extreme W.N.W. about the same distance. Salat BatU Hadji, or strait of the Pilgrim rock, separates the Bulang archipelago from Pulo Battam. This strait is said to afford a safe and short passage into Rhio and Varella straits, but it is unavailable not having been properly surveyed, and, from the intricate nature of its navigation, it seems improbable that it will ever come into general use. The strait may be approached by any of the channels between the groups of islands just mentioned, as also by the channels amongst the islands next to be described ; but the safest channel appears to be between the Sambo islands and Pulo BlakanPadang, taking care to keep over towards Pulo Mariam, to avoid the coral spit which projects about half a mile eastward of Blakan Padang. Prom the northward, after passing Pulo Mariam, and bringing it to bear N, by E., steer to the southward through the channeJ separating the groups of islands southward of Blakan Padang from the Battam coast and the islands fronting it. Pulo Blakan Padang, the largest of the islands fronting the entrance of Salat Batu Hadji, is circular and about 1^ miles in diameter ; it lies south-westward of Sambo islands, and is separated from them by a channel half a mile broad, in which the depths are 8 to 15 fathoms. This island is encircled by a reef, which projects a third of a mile from the north point, and half a mile from the south-east and south-west points, but to less distances in other parts. Pulo Telup about half a mile in extent, lies barely a quarter of a mile north-westward of Pulo Blakan Padang, the channel separating them being narrowed to little over one cable in width by the reefs fronting each island. Sannang is a small islet lying on the north-west edge of the reef which projects nearly 2 cables from the north-east end of Pulo Telup. Three small patches with depths of 7 and 8 fathoms close-to, lie ofE the west side of Pulo Telup, the outer edges of the two northern and most distant ones lying about West, half a mile from the centre of the island. A cluster of seven small islands stands on a reef nearly 2 miles long east and west, and three-quarters of a mile broad ; this reef which lies to the southward of Pulo Blakan Padang, is separated from it by a passage about a quarter of a mile broad, with depths of 3 to 8 fathoms. Nearly half a mile southward of the middle and largest island of the group are two small islands lying close together, each encircled by a reef; from the western island the reef projects a third of a mile in a W.N. W. direction, having a small detached coral patch lying 3 cables to the west- ward. G 2 100 SINGAPOKE STRAIT. WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. Saddle island lies three-quarters of a mile southward of the two just described, and between are two islets, each fringed with a reef. Saddle island is the middle of several islets which lie at the entrance of Salat Batu Hadji. Between the various groups are channels with depths varying from 4^ to 11 fathoms. Pulo Sambo, the larger of two islands which form the western limit of Battam bay, is separated from Pulo Blakau Padang by a channel nearly half a mile wide having depths of 5 to 15 fathoms. Pulo Sambo is nearly a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, and is encompassed by a belt of coral, about a cable broad in most places. Little Sambo Island and Ledge.— Little Sambo, about 3 cables in length, lies one-third of a mile north-westward of Pulo Sambo, and is nearly everywhere fringed with coral, extending to a short dis- tance, but from the north-west point it stretches off 3 cables ; this part is known as Sambo ledge, and has a rock always uncovered near the middle. Batu Beranti is a rocky ledge, one-third of a mile in extent, the centre of which is above water, and lies 6 cables N. by W. from Little Sambo. Another le3ge, similar to that just described, lies a third of a mile west- ward of it, and three-quarters of a mile from Little Sambo. The soundings near these dangers are irregular, and afford no reliable guide for a vessel approaching them ; close to are depths of from 7 to 20 fathoms. Pulo Mariam is an islet two cables south-eastward of Pulo Sambo and three-quarters of a mile north-westward of Tanjong Pingi. The -channel between the islet and Tangong Pingi, is encumbered near the middle with three patches of dry reef and some shoal water. There is, however, a deep but very narrow passage between Tanjong Pingi and these dangers, and a similar passage between them and Pulo Mariam ; .there is also a passage between the islet and Pulo Sambo. CAUTION.— Eddies and Overfalls.— Owing to the strong tides which run through this part of the strait, and the rocky and uneven nature of the bottom, violent eddies and overfalls are usually to be met with, more especially on the south side of the channel, towards the Sambo islands ; it is therefore advisable to keep on the north side, near St. John islands. All the islands and dangers, however, south-westward of Sambo islands, ■except Buffalo rock and two 9 fathoms banks between the rock and Helen Mar reef, are within the 10-fathom edge of the bank which extends from the southern shore of this part of the strait. CHAP. II.] puLO SAMBO. — SALAT SENli. 101 NORTH SHORE.— Between Tanjong Bulus, and Tanjong Gul (the south-west extreme of Singapore island), a distance of 9 miles in an E. by N. direction, lies the west entrance of the Old strait or Salat Tebrau, fronted by a bank having from 6 to 18 feet water, which extends from Tanjong Bulus,- and terminates in a prong half a mile to the southward of Tanjong Gul {see page 149).* Allc]lora>g6. — During the north-east monsoon good anchorage may be obtained about three-quarters of a mile south of this bank in 9 or 10 fathoms water with Tanjong Bulus bearing West, distant 3 miles. Sultan shoal, or Trumbu Carimon, situated 8^ miles E. f S. from Tanjong Bulus, is circular, about two-thirds of a cable in diameter, and the rocks dry about 2 feet at low-water spring tides. It is marked by a beacon, painted in red and white stripes, from which Raffle» lighthouse is just open of the west extremes of Alligator and Barn islands, S.E. ^ E, 7J mUes. Close to the westward of the beacon are depths of 3 and 4 fathoms, and 7 or 8 fathoms at 2 cables distant, but the east side of the shoal is steep-to, there being 6 fathoms close to the rocks. Ajax shoal, lies one mile S.E. by E. \ E. from the Sultan shoal beacon ; this shoal composed of coral with sharp pinacles, is nearly one cable in extent iu an E. by N. and W. by S. direction, and has on its. south-west extremity a depth of 3 fathoms. The water deepens gradually north-westward of the rock ; but the south and west sides are steep-to. A buoy, painted red, has been placed on Ajax shoal, with Sultau shoal beacon bearing N. 58 W., distant \^jg miles. SALAT S£NK£ (Siuki), by which Singapore New harbour is approached from the westward, is bounded on either side by reefs, the edges of which are mai-ked by stone beacons with basket tops. The- length of the channel is 4 miles, and its breadth at the eastern and narrowest part is three-quarters of a mile. The depths are very irregular, generally from 9 to 16 fathoms, but in one place, just to the southward of the westernmost beacon on the north side, there are 25 fathoms. The eastern extreme of the channel is about 3 miles to the westward^ of New harbour. PulO Saluk, a small islet 90 feet high, lies on the east side of entrance to Salat Senk^. A coral reef extends nearly half a mile east- ward of it, but the channel side is nearly eteep-to. Pulo Saluk bears- E. by S. \ S. from Ajax shoal on the western side of the entrance. Beacons. — Three of the red stone beacons which mark the south side of this channel are situated on the northern edge of the large reef * See Admiralty chart: — Singapore strait Ko. 2,403; aud Singapore Main strait No. 2,404 ; scale, nt=l inch. 102 SINQATORE STRAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. 'that suiToilrids Pulo Bosing. The first or westernmost beacon bears ]S.E. I E. distant ly^^ miles from Pulo Saluk ; the second E.N.B. the same distance from the: first ; and the third is about a quarter 4 cables eastward of the second. The fourth or easternmost beacon stands on the northern edge of the reef that surrounds Freshwater island or Pulo Bukum, and bears E. by N. distant one mile from the third beacon. • A white stone beacon marks the reef, at half a mile i^outhward of Pulo Laut, and two white stone beacons the southern edge of Gyrene reef, north side of the channel. All these beacons have basket tops. About 3 miles. E. | N. from Sultan shoal, and half a mile south of Piulo Laut, lies a small reef marked by a white beacon. North. Side. — A reef awash, lies one mile westward of Pulo Laut, on the north side of Salat Senke, and N.E. by E.^;| E. 2i miles from Sultan shoal. Pulo Laut, half a mile in extent, hii,s a small island close to the east- ward of it. These two islands are the southernmost of an extensive group of islands lying close together, to the northward of which is a nayigable channel named Salat Sambulun. "CjTTene reef forms the north-eastern limit of Salat Senke, and is the first' reef westward of New harbour; from its south-east extreme Blayer ^oint bears E. by N. ^ N. 2| miles. It is about half a mile in extent north and south, more than a mile east] and west, and very irregtilarly shaped, the- western part forming a narrow spit ; on the northern part is a sand patch, having upon it a spot of coral which is barely covered at high water. From the south side two small hoi-ns project into the channel, the extreme of each being marked by a white beacon. Directions. — Coming from the westward, and intending to pro- ceed through Salat Senke, a course may be steered to sight the red and white striped beacon on Sultan shoal, which may be passed at a prudent distance on either side ; after passing Sultan shoal, care is necessary to avoid Ajax shoal, marked by a buoy. But to provide against the chance of the marks having disappeared, or in the event of thick weather, the safer plan will be to steer for Pulo Saluk on an East or E. ^ S. bearing. When Sultan beacon is seen, and brought to bear from N.N.W. to N.W., steer from E. by N. to E.N.E., giving Pulo Sahik a berth of 1 J mUes ; after passing it keep a good look-out for the outer beacons on either side, and steer mid-channel between them. The same course, E. by N., always remembering to guard against the effects of tide, will lead to the entrance of a New Harbour. See p. 1 10. CHAP. 11.] SALAT SENK^. — ISLANDS. 103 If the tripod beacon upon Sultan shoal or the buoy on Ajax shoal cannot be seen, a vessel should not proceed until quite certain of her position, and assured that some accident must have happened to them. As the mail steam vessels, both to and from Europe, now pass through Salat Senk6, great attention is paid to the beacons which mark it. At night, Raffles light well in sight and bearing S.E. by E. or more easterly, leads southward of Sultan and Ajax shoals. Sa.lat Sambulau is a navigable channel half a mile in breadth between the reefs fringing the south shore of Singapore island, and Pulo Pice and Ayer Limau. A white stone beacon, with basket, marks the reef 4 cables off shore, and- nearly one mile eastward of Tanjong Gul, north side of Salat Sambulan ; and a red stone beacon, with basket, marks the south-west end of the reef extending from Pulo Pice, on south side of Salat Sambulan. ISLANDS.— Freshwater island.— A group of islands, about- 5 miles in extent, lies to the southward of Salat Senke, and to the west- ward of St. -John and Blakan Mati islands, from which it is separated by a navigable channel nearly 3 miles broad. The islands are all small, and separated by deep channels, which however, are so encumbered with reefs as to render them unavailable for anything but boats. Freshwater island, or Pulo Bukum, and Pulo Bosing, are the northern islands of the group ; they have been previously mentioned in connexion with Salat Senke, of which the reefs extending from them form the southern limit ; Pulo Saluk, the south-west limit of that channel, is the north-west island of this group. Pulo Sudong is a small island, nearly 1} miles E.S.E. from Pulo Saluk, having two small islets off its north-west end. The island stands on the eastern part of an extensive coral reef, the western edge of which is a mile distant from it. Alligator Island, or Pulo Henkam, about one mile in extent, 185 feet high, and of a sloping form, the highest part being at its south end, lies about half a mile to the southward of Pulo Sudong, and nearly joins the north-west end of Barn island, the space between the reefs en- compassing each island affording no safe passage for vessels. At a quarter of a mile from the south end of Alligator island there are depths of 14 and 16 fathoms, but off its west side not more than 6 to 9 fathoms will be obtained at from a half to two-thirds of a mile. Barn Island, or Pulo Sennang, lying half a mile south-east of Alligator island, is about a mile in extent, 133 feet high, of a square level aspect, covered with trees, and visible at a distance of 15 miles. Barn island is fringed with a reef, which extends a quarter of a mile from its 104 SINGAPOKE STBAIT. "WESTERN PART. [chap, ii- east side, but barely two cables from its south and west sides, close to which are 9 and 11 fathoms, with 18 and 19 fathoms at a short distance. The Rabbit and Coney are two small islets, nearly connected with the south-east end of Barn island by a reef of i-ocks partly dry at low water. The Coney, or southernmost, is the smaller, and distant from the south-east point of Barn island rather more than one-third of a mile. A rocky spit, covered at high water, projects from the Coney one cable to the southward. RAFFLES LIGHT.— The lighthouse on Coney islet, named after Sir Stamford Eaffles, the founder of Singapore, is 91 feet high, and exhibits at an elevation of 105 feet above high water, a^aicrf while light which is visible from a distance of 13 miles, between the bearings of S.E. by E. through north to S.W. by W. | W., westerly. To the west- ward, the light well in sight bearing eastward of S.E. by B., clears Sultan and Ajax shoals ; and to the eastward clears the reef extending from Middle island, and St. John islands. Mangrove Island and Reefs. — Mangrove island (Pulo Simakau) about a mile in extent, lies near the centre of the group, 2| miles N.N.E. from Coney islet, and about If miles ^vestward of Middle island ; between it and Middle island is Pulo Siking surrounded by a reef. . Southward of Mangrove island are several reefs, or small coral patches, the three outer ones of which bound the north side of the channel between Middle island and Coney island. The southern extremes of these dangers lie nearly in a line, and about S.W. by W. ^ W. from the south-east end of Middle island, from which the nearest is distant nearly 1| miles ; the eastern patch is partly dry, over the middle one there is a depth of If fathoms, and over the western 2 fathoms. The peak of Great Carimon in line with the north part of Barn island, leads close to the southward of the western patch, but well clear of the others ; it is advisable, however, not to come northward of a line joining the southern extremes of West St. John and Barn islands. Middle Island, or Pulo Sabariit, the eastern island of the group, is half a mile long, 78 feet high, and surrounded by a reef which projects from the south-east point nearly half a mile. Rock. — ^A dangerous ledge of rock which is steep to, lies S.E. by E. distant 6 cables from the south-east point of Middle island. The ledge is small, and covered, except at very low tides, some points of the rocks being then just discernible. A tripod beacon, painted red, sui-mounted by a basket, marks this rock. Pulo Jong (a small round islet 75 feet high, lying half a mile north-west ot Middle island) operf eastward of Middle island, leads north-east of the ledge, and the south point of West St. John N.E. by E. i E., or Eaffles CHAP. 11.] BAJPFLES LIGHT. — ST. JOHN ISLANDS. 105 lighthouse S.W. by W. | W., leads to the southward ; the high peak of the Great Carimon in line with the north part of Bam island will also lead to the southwai-d of this danger. The Sisters are two small islets not quite a mile to the westward of West St. John island ; the South Sister, named Pulo Subur, is 89 feet high. They are surrounded by reefs to the distance of a cable, and close to their edges are irregular soundings of 5 to 9 fathoms. Southward of the South Sister the soundings soon deepen. The channel between them and West St. John is free from danger, with depths of 14 to 24 fathoms. Nearly half a mile W.S.W. of the Sisters is a bank of 3 fathoms, with 5 and 6 fathoms between, and a short distance westward of this bank is another of 5 fathoms. Triunbu Sileger. — A red stone beacon surmounted by a basket, has been erected on the eastern side of Sileger reef, situated about 7 cables north-west of the Sisters. St. Jotm islands, three in number, form the south-western limit of Singapore road. They lie about north-east and south-west from each other, extending nearly a mile in those directions. West St. John island is about one mile long north-west and south-east and a quarter of a mile broad. Its south-east extreme is joined to the main body by a narrow neck of low land, which at a little distance gives it the appearance of a separate islet. A reef extends about a third of a cable from its southern and western sides, and 1;^ cables from its eastern side. The middle island, known as East St. John island, is about half a mile long north-west and south-east, a quarter of a mile broad, 189 feet high, and surrounded by a reef which extends a little over half a cable from its south point, and 1 J cables from its south-eastern shore. Peak island, or Pulo Tambakul, the north-easternmost and smallest of the three, has a peaked hill 100 feet high. The island is encompassed by a reef which extends about three-quarters of a cable in a southerly and south-easterly, and 2 cables in a north-westerly direction. A white stone obelisk on the south-east side of Peak island, marks the southern limit of Singapore road. Between these islands are narrow channels about half a cable wide, with depths of 6 to 16 fathoms. In the space between St. John islands and Blakan Mati, are a few small islands and several extensive reefs. Between the latter are channels of deep water, but they are so narrow and intricate as to be useless for the purposes of ordinary navigation. Pulo Ringat is the easternmost of two small islets which lie close to the north-eastward of St. John islands. 106 SINGAPOEE STfiAIT. WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. Pulo Sikukur, about half a mile long, but very narrow, lies nearly niid-cbannel between West St. John and Blakan Mati islands. Clearing Marks. — To avoid all the dangers between St. John islands and Malay point, Peak island must not be brought to the eastward of S. I E., whilst mount Serapong bears to the northward of W.N.W. When mount Serapong is to the westward of that bearing, a vessel may stand on until the western extreme of West St. John island bears S. by W. 1 W., but no farther. Blakan Mati island, lies to the southward of the southern part of Singapore island, from which it is separated by a channel now known as New harbour. The island is 2 miles long is an east-south-east and west-north-west direction, and its western end tenninates in a point, but its eastern extreme is a mile broad. It is fringed by a reef, which from Berala pointy its north-eastern extreme, projects a quarter of a mile to the eastward ; this part of the reef is known as Berala spit, and from its outer part Berala point bears W. | S. ; thence it tends about S. by W. for the eastern extreme of the island, from which it projects but a short distance. Off the south point of the island the shore reef extends about three-quarters of a cable, and about the same distance along its west side ; but a small detached reef, named Pelawan, about 1 J cables in extent, lies 2 cables from the west shore of the island, at three-quarters of a mile from its north-west point. Forts are being built on the east and west ends of this island, and one also near its centre. Mount Serapong, rising to the height of 303 feet near the north- eastern extreme of Blakan Mati, is conspicuous when appoaching Singapore roads from the eastward, and will assist a stranger in making out the land, St. John islands being seen to the southward of it. There are several other hills of less height than Serapong upon Blakan Mati, but they are more observable in coming from the westward, when they will be seen under the higher land of Singapore island. Over Eimau point, the west extreme of the island, is mount Siloso, 170 feet high, to the eastward of which, and south from Berdaun rock, is mount Imbeah, 202 feet high, and other hills to the eastward. BANKS. — In the main channel about midway between Tree island and Sultan shoal, is the north-western extreme of a bank which extends 3^ miles in a south-easterly direction, its average breadth being nearly half a mile, having from 5^ to 9 fathoms and 11 to 16 fathoms close-to. Its southern extreme lies West, 1^ miles from Coney island. Close to the south edge of the reef which surrounds Alligator island are depths of 14 fathoms, but a bank with 7, 8, and 9 fathoms extends about 3 miles from the west side of that island, and parallel with the bank CHAP. II.] BLAEA-Sn 'MATI ISliAND.^-TIBES. 107 just described. Between these two banks the depths are from 13 to 15 fathoms. The soundings -south of Coney islet are deep but irregular; near the reef which projects from it is a depth of 20 fathoms ; south-westward from Coney, depths of 18 to 22 fathoms extend to tlie distance of about 1^ miles thence deepening to 40 or SO fathoms towards Long island. At half a mile north-eastward of Helen Mar reef, is the western part of a bank, which is about a mile in extent with 9 to 10 fathoms water. A pateh of 9 -fathexms lieS half a mile northward of its eastern extreme. A bank with depths under 20 fathoms, but irregular in contour, fronts the whole -of the islands and dangers on the south side of the strait, between Helen Mar reef, and Batu Beranti. Between Pulo Sannang and the ledges west of Batu Beranti, the edge of this bank is about half a mile from the shoal water near the reef extending from the north part of Pulo Blakan Padang, and nearly three-quarters of a mile outside Pulo Sannang. TIDES. — The tidal stream from Malacca strait when setting to the eastward, and the tidal stream from the China sea when setting to the westward, meet between Tree island and Tanjong Bulus. It is high water, full and change, at Coney island, at 11 a.m., but the tide does not set to the eastward till about 1 p.m., and it is then about half ebb by the shore. Between Tanjong Bulus and Tree island no dependence can be placed upon the set of the tides, for they sometimes run strong towards Durian strait, and at other times northward towards the Old strait of Singapore. From Tree island to Raffles lighthouse the tides cannot be depended on to set as fairly through the channel as they do to the eastward of the lighthouse, but may be expected to draw more across the channel in a north-easterly and opposite direction. The tides set fairly through the channel about E.N.E. and W.S.W. between Raffles lighthouse and St. John islands, frequently very strong, with eddies on the springs. Their velocity, when strongest, is from 4 to 4| miles per hour, making it un- pleasant to anchor here in large vessels when the weather is unsettled in the night, particularly if unacquainted. The tidal stream has been observed in both monsoons to run to the west- ward 10 or 12 hours at a time, or even 18 hours, strong and weak alternately ; at other times, it sets only 6 hours to the westward, and the same length of time to the eastward. During the strength of the north- east monsoon at neap tides, the stream sets to the westward at times for three or four days, although there is a regular rise and fall by the shore. Temporary anchorages.— Owing to the strong tides and cur- rents in the western part of Singapore strait, sailing vessels are frequently obliged to anchor, for which purpose the north side of the channel is to be 108 SINGAPOEE SXEAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. preferred. Between Sultan shoal and Eaflfles lighthouse on that side, there is convenient anchorage in 6 to 12 fathoms, while to the southward the water is deep, and the bottom rocky ; the south side of this part of the strait is, therefore, unsuitable for anchorage, especially as violent squalls are of common occurrence. The most convenient anchorages between Eafi9es lighthouse and St. John are the banks which fi-ont the Sisters and Middle islands. Abreast of the south end of St. John islands, vessels ought not to anchor it it can be avoided, for the water is deep, and the tides run in eddies with greater strength than in any other part of the strait. There is fair anchorage between Buffalo rock and Helen Mar reef, as well as about a mile or so to the northward and westward of the latter danger ; also a mile or two eastward of Buffalo rock, in 12 to 19 fathoms, or between it and Barren island. Vessels may stand closer inshore and anchor in depths under 10 fathoms, inside of a line N.E. by E. ^ E. and S.W. by W. ^ W. of Barren island ; it is, however, unadvisable to go too close in, on account of the strong tides sometimes rendering it difficult to get under way again, especially in the light winds which prevail here. Caution. — Vessels at anchor, or coming to an anchor during the night, sliould be careful to ascertain their exact position as nearly as possible, and to have a good bearing off Raffles light ; they should also keep a vigilant look-out that they do not drag their anchors and drift into danger. DIRECTIONS.— To proceed eastward through the western part of Singapore Strait.— When in mid-channel between Liltle Carimon and Tanjong Bulus, in depths of from 17 to 22 fgthoms, steer East or E.S.E. as the prevailing wind and tide require. Raffles lighthouse bearing between E. by 8. and E.S.E. is the fair channel course between Tree island and Sultan shoal, not bringing the lighthouse to the northward of East to avoid Tree island, nor to the south- ward of S.E. by E., or at night, not to lose sight of the bright light, to clear Sultan shoal. Having passed Tree island steer to round the light- house from a half to one mile distant ; or if the wind and tide be adverse, or from other circumstances it be desirable to do so, anchor to thd westward of Barn island, out of the strength of the tide. Having rounded the lighthouse, steer to pass St. John islands about half a mile distant, not bringing the lighthouse to the southward of S.W. by W. f.W., to avoid the rock marked by a beacon south-eastward of Middle island, on the north side of the channel. At night, keep Raffles light in sight W.S.W. or more westerly. After rounding St. John, and bound to Singapore road, proceed as directed at page 125 ; and if bound through the eastern part of CHAr. II.] TIDES. — DIRECTIONS. 109 the strait, shape course E.N.E. to pass northward of Horsburgh light, and proceed as directed at page 143. In. working through between St. John islands and Eafl3es light- house, it is usual to keep on the north side of the channel, making short tacks if necessary, as that part of the strait affords tolerably convenient anchorage along the greater portion of it, and vessels are liable to meet with light baffling airs which would render it necessary to anchor. It is especially requisite to attend to this when eastward of Buflfalo rock, for on that part of the south side of the strait the water is deep, and the bottom Tocky and unsafe for anchoring, the danger being much increased by rapid currents and tides with violent eddies and overfalls. All danger on the north side of this part of the channel will be avoided if the south extreme of St. John islands be not brought eastward of N.E. by E. i E., or Eaffles lighthouse southward of S.W. by W. | W.,but these bearings more particularly apply to the rock now marked by a beacon, which lies S.E. by E. from Middle island. While to the westward of the rock, vessels may stand to the northward until the south end of St. John bears E.]S'.E. ; and eastward of the rock, between Middle island and the Sisters, as far as E. by N., observing that Pulo Jong open west- ward or eastward of Middle island, clears the rock. When approaching Buflfalo rock from the westward, until Middle island bears N. by W. | W., the vessel will be westward of the rock, and in day- light may stand to the southward, if necessary, until Eed island bears W. 4 S., whic*h clears Helen Mar reef, but it is better to keep over towards the lighthouse. When Middle island bears N. by W. ^ W. be careful to keep Eaffles lighthouse to the southward of W. \ S., until eastward of Buffalo rock. To proceed from Singapore road or from the east- ward, through the western part of Singapore strait, steer to pass the south point of St. John islands as close as prudence and the wind may permit, and then about S.W. by W. ^ W. to round the Eabbit and Coney. It is better to keep near the north side of the channel in this track. The south end of St. John bearing N.E. by E. I E., or Eaffles lighthouse S.W, by W. | W., leads clear of danger, and either of these are safe bearings to lead along the north side of the channel until Eaffles lighthouse is approached, which may be rounded at the distance of 2 or 3 cables, if the wind be northerly. After rounding the lighthouse, steer W.N.W. to pass between Tree island and Sultan shoal; the lighthouse kept between the bearings of E. by S. and E.S.E. will lead in a good fairway course, but it must not be brought at all to the northward of East to avoid Tree island reef, or to the south- ward of S.E. by E. or, if at night, the bright light must not be lost sight 110 SINGAPORE STEAilO?. [chap. ii. of, to clear Sultan shoal; having passed between those dangers, a course West to W.N.W., according to the set of the tide and other circumstances, will lead between Little Carimon and Tanjong Bulus., . Caution. — In hazy weather during the nighit^'gfeat care must be taken in steering between Raffles lighthouse and Tanjong Bulus, for no dependence can be placed upon the set of the tides, for they sometimes run strong towards the Strait of Durian, at plher times to the northward towards the Old strait of Singapore. SINGAPORE NEW HARBOUR. New harbour, the name given to the channel between Singapore and Blakan Mati islands, is about 2| miles long, in a general direction east and west, but the main channel takes a somewhat serpentine course ; the breadth of the harbour in several places is not mote than 1^ cables. The western entrance, which is little more than one oable wide, lies between Rimau and Blayer points. The eastern entrance is bounded on the north by Malay and Pagar spits, and on the south by Buran Darat reef, and the reefs surrounding the eastern sides of Blakan Mati and Ayer Brani islands.* As an anchorage, New harbour is very indifferent, for the breadth of the navigable channel is but 100 to 200 yards, the bottom is rocky and foul, and affords but bad holding ground, whilst the tides run through it with great velocity ; there is, from these circtimstances, great risk of vessels dragging their anchors and going ashore, especially during the violent squalls which are common in this part of the world. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, New harbour has grown into a place of considerable importance, for it possesses facilities for constructing jetties and making docks, which render it of the highest possible value to a large shipping port like Singapore, situated in the very centre of Eastern commerce. The Peninsular and Oriental Company, the Tanjong Pagar Company, together with other steam proprietors and merchants, have erected extensive coal stores, capacious docksj wharves, and jetties, the latter allowing of the largest steam vessels being lashed alongside in perfect security. It is the place of arrival and departure of the mail steamers ; and all other steam vessels proceed here to coal. The whole of the above establishments are situated on the north or Singapore side of New harbour. Both sides of the harbour are fringed with reefs which dry at low water, but close to their edges are depths of 3 to 4 fa,thoms, increasing suddenly to 5 and 6 fathoms, and to this circumstance New harbour owes its importance. * See Admiralty plan of New harbour, No. 2,023 ; scale, m = 12 inches. CHAP. II.] SINGAPORE NEW HABBOTJR. Ill Docks.*— The following are the dimensions of the docks at Singapore : New Harbour Docks Company in Chermin bay : No. 1 dock, length 444 feet, breadth at entrance 55 feet, depth over sill 19 feet at ordinary springs ; No. 2 dock, length 416 feet, breadth 42^ feet, depth over sill 14^ feet. Tanjong Pagar Company : Victoria dock ; No. 3, length 450 feet, breadth 65 feet, depth over sill 20 feet ; Albert dock. No. 4, length 470 feet, breadth 60 feet, depth on sill 21 feet. Bon Accord dock belonging to the same company, on Ayer Brani island, length 330 feet, breadth 50 feet, depth over sill 17 feet. There is a jetty for heaving down vessels on Blakan Mati island, south-eastward of Silugu island. The large sheers on the Tanjong Pagar Company's sheer wharf will lift 40 tons. Repairs to bulls and machinery of vessels of the largest class can be effected by the dock companies ; and barracks have been built at the docks to accommodate crews of 500 and 250^men. Supplies. — Every description of supplies are to be obtained. Power- ful tugs are available when required. Coal. — Most of the large steamers make use of the extensive wharf accommodation belonging to the Tanjong Pagar and other companies, alongside which there is from 25 to 40 feet at low water. Her Majesty's vessels are coaled at the wharves of the company who may happen to have the contract, the English naval coal stores on Pulo Ayer Brani are not now used for that purpose. Both the Pagar and Borneo Company's wharves are easy to go alongside. Vessels requiring coal should hoist the Commercial Code rendezvous flag, at the dip, when a similar flag will be waved from the wharf to which, the vessel can go alongside. 200 tons an hour can be put on board, if urgently required ; 100 tons an hour can always be depended on.f The Tanjong Pagar Company lease the Government stores on Ayer Brani island, and usually kept there about 2,000 tons of coal, for the purpose of coaling vessels in Singapore road, by lighters. North side of New Harbour.— The shore reef which extends from the north-west limit of the harbour and passes about 50 yards outside Lot's wife, Blayer point, trends to the northward one cable and about the same distance to the eastward, forming a small bay nearlv filled with shoal water, thence to the north-eastward for about 1;| cables to the foot of mount Chermin, from which the reef curves to the eastward, forming Chermin bay. On the eastern side of this bay are two of the docks, and works previously alluded to; the reef thence trends in an E. by S. direction * Vessels of 5,000 tons burthen have been docked here. f There are some shoal patches off the Borneo Company's wharf of about 18 or 20 feet, towards its west end, which makes it awkward for vessels of heavy draught to get alongside. — Navigating Lieutenant H. Koxby, H.M.S. Bacchante, 1882. 112 SINGAPOEE STRAIT. [chap. ii. for 3 cables to the Peninsular and Oriental jetties, which have extensive coal stores and godowns behind them. The whole of these buildings are on ground that was once a small island, but is now connected to Singapore by a roadway. These jetties have a frontage of 1^ cables in an easterly direction to the entrance of a shoal bight named Sibet bay ; on the opposite side of which, at about a cable to the eastward, is St. James hill, 70 feet high, having a house and some trees on its summit, and is a beautiful feature in the delightful scenery of this harbour. Mooring buoys are placed off the jetties, and a dolphin at either end, to assist in securing steam A'essels when coaling. On the east side of St. James hill is a shoal bight named Blangah bay. about a cable wide at its entrance. Prom tlie East point of this bay the edge of the reef trends about N.E. by E., and for a distance of nearly a •quarter of a mile is fronted by jetties and coal stores with godowns behind them. These belong to Jardine and the Borneo Company. The Tanjong Pagar Company have built a sea wall about 750 yards long on the east side of their docks, extending to the extreme of Pagar spit. Prom this extreme their wharves and docks extend a considerable distance to the westvrard. The space between them and the Borneo Company is being rapidly reclaimed, and increased wharf aecommodatioc afforded. Mount Paber is the name of a conspicuous range of hills which rises boldly on the northern shore, about the middle part of New harbour. The direction of the range is about north west and south-east, the highest point, 357 feet, being towards its north-west end. Near the middle of the range is a flagstafF, which, like that upon fort Canning hill, is crossed by two yards, used for signalling the arrival of vessels from the westward, and repeating the signals made from fort Canning. The height of the range where the flagstaff stands is 803 feet, the same height as mount Serapong on the opposite side of New harbour. Eastward of mount Paber, behind the wharves and jetties, are several small hills from 100 to 130 feet high. Blayer point, the north-western limit of New harbour, is formed of cliffs of a moderate elevation, and projects in a S.S.E. direction from the low mangrove behind it to a rather sharp point. Prom this point the coast trends in a north-westerly direction and is fringed with a white beach named Pusir Panjang, or long beach, upon which, at a cable from Blayer point, stands a board, denoting the harbour limit in this direction. Lots Wife is a rock about 6 feet above high water, lying immediately off the pitch of Blayer point, about 50 yards inside the edge of the «HAP. u.] SINaAPORE NEW HARBOTJK. 113 shore reef, which is here steep-to. A white beacon, 10 feet high, marks the south edge of the shore reef. Blayer rock, with 7 feet water, lies S.W, rather more than half a cable from Blayer point. A patch having 3^ fathoms water lies W, ^ S. distant 2^ cables from Blayer point, and is the shoalest part of a bank having depths of 4 and 5 fathoms, with 7 and 8 fathoms close to its outer edge, and 6 fathoms between it and the shore reef fronting Pasir Panjang beach. To clear this patch, and also Blayer rock, keep Tereh point, a con- spicuous red bluff on Ayer Brani island, well open south of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties. SOUTH SIDE OP NEW HARBOUR— Rimau point, the north-west extreme of Blakan Mati island, and the south-west limit of New Harbour, is formed of cliffs with patches of shelving rock projecting from their bases. The shore reef extends half a cable in a W.N.W. direction from the extreme of the point, with 7 feet water at that distance, and from 3 to 4 fathoms close beyond. Hantll, the small round island lying in front of Chermin bay, is nearly H cables in diameter, 96 feet high, and covered with trees. Its southern side, being nearly in the same line as the Peninsular and Oriental jetties and Lots wife, forms part of the northern side of the main channel of the harbour. A reef surrounds the east, south, and west sides of the island, the edge of which, on the south side, is marked by a white beacon. The north-east side, opposite the dry dock, is free from reefs, with depths of 3 fathoms close-to. BerdaUU rock, is a small patch of reef above water, grown over by mangrove trees, distant about half a mile east from Kimau point, and halt a cable from the Blakan Mati shore. A reef, dry at low water, extends about two-thirds of a cable westward, and about a third of a cable northward and eastward from it. Close to this reef are 2| and 3 fathoms water, excepting on its eastern side, where the depths are less. Between this rock and Blakan Mati there is a channel about one-third of a cable wide, with a depth of 3^ fathoms. Silu^U island Jies at the western entrance of Sinki strait about 1^ cables to the eastward of Berdaun rock, and fronts a shallow bight, dry at low water, named Imbeah bay. It is a remarkable little island, almost circular in shape, and moderately elevated, with a small bungalow on its summit.* The shore reef projects from the coast, a short distance outside this island, with from 3^ to 5 fathoms close-to. * This bungalow is named Pilot house on the chart of New harbour, owing to its having been built and first inhabited by Mr. Clunis, then the pilot for the Peninsular and Oriental Company ; but it is not the usual residence or station of a pilot, as might be inferred from the name given it. U 20665. H 114 SINGAPORE STRAIT?. [chap. ix. Keppel rock, with 24 feet water, is 23 yards long in an east and west direction, and 12 yards broad, and lies W.S.W., one cable from the western extreme of the Peninsula and Oriental Company's works.* Close around the rock are depths of 5 and 6 fathoms. The south extreme of St. James hill on with the eastern extreme of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties leads southward of the rock. Mseauder shoal, about one cable in extent, east and west, with from 6 to 16 feet water, lies on the south side of the main channel of New harbour, about 1^ cables south of the Peninsula and Oriental Company's works, and a cable to the north-west of the extreme of the spit extending from Risim point. The northern edge of the shoal is marked by two red buoys ; around and in the channel between it and Eisim spit, the depths are 3J to 4^ fathoms. Ayer Brani Island, (Pulo Brani,) lies in New harbour. It is nearly two-thirds of a mile long, east and west, and the same in breadth ; its greatest length is on its north-eastern side, facing Singapore road, and upon this part are three hills, the middle one, which is the highest, being 168 feet above the sea. Tereh point, the north extreme of the island, and Teregeh [point, the south-east extreme, are both formed by cliffs ; those forming Tereh point are of a red colour and present a bold red bluff, which is conspicuous when viewed from either entrance of the harbour. This island, like Blakan Mati, is encircled by a coral reef with occasional patches of sand, which uncover at two-thirds ebb. Prom Risim point the west extreme of the island, the reef extends If cables to the west- ward, and forms a spit, having a white beacon on its outer edge, thence it trends about E.N.E. 4 cables, to the naval store jetty on the west side of Tereh point. Prom Tereh point the reef projects only about 20 or 30 yards, thence it curves round to the south-eastward, passing about a cable outside Silingsing point, at the middle of the east side of Ayer Brani, and terminates abreast Teregeh point. Prom this point the reef projects about half a cable to the southward, and more than 2 cables east- ward, the extreme of the latter part being known as Teregeh spit, and marked by a white beacon. Buoys. — A black buoy with ball is moored in 2| fathoms, about one cable north-east of the white beacon on Teregeh spit, and a similar black buoy in 5 fathoms, about one-third of a cable off the reef, abreast Brani bay. Saga bay. — Between Tereh and Risim points, on the north-west side of Ayer Brani, is Saga bay, dry at low water, which offers great facilities for the construction of dry docks. * H.M.S. Charyhdis, \>j the explosion of dynamite, increased the depth from 15 feet to 24 feet. CHAP, n.] SINGAPORE NEW HARBOTJE. 115 Some years ago a dry dock was begun here, but its completion was stopped by the Government, who has since built a jetty and store houses close to the dock, at the north-eastern part of Saga bay, but with the dock itself nothing has been done. This jetty is leased to the Tanjong Pagar Company, who store coal here for supplyhig vessels in the road ; the depth of water alongside (17 feet) and the strength of the tide near the wharf being such as to prevent it being generally used by steamers. Just to the north-eastward of Risim point, are the torpedo stores, with a convenient jetty, off which dolphins are placed to secure vessels to. Sinki strait. — Beacons. — Sinki strait, the channel between Ayer Brani and Blakan Mati islands, is not much used. To render it navigable, beacons have been placed on the edges of the reefs ; on the north side, in addition to the white beacons on Teregeh and Risim spits, white beacons have been placed on the edge of the reef south of Teregeh point, and on the east extreme of the detached reef lying south-westward of Bon Accord dock; a pole beacon marks the west extreme of this reef. On the- south side red beacons mark the end of the reef north of Berala point ; the end of the reef opposite Kopih village, and the edge of the reef between Kuchin and Gila creeks. Owing to the uncertainty of the direction of the gusts of wind caused by the adjacent high land, it is scarcely considered safe for sailing vessels. The western entrance of the strait, between the spit off Risim point and the reef fronting Blakan Mati, is quite clear, with depths of 4 and 5 fathoms. Off the south side of the western part of Ayer Brani is a detached reef marked by beacons, dry at low water, and surrounded by a bank which projects more than half-way across the channel towards Blakan Mati narrowing it to the breadth of half a cable. From the eastern extreme of this reef the strait is barred by a bank with a greatest depth of 3 fathoms. A tongue, with a depth of 2| fathoms, projects from the west point of Bindarah bay, on Blakan Mati island, nearly to the opposite side of the strait, in the direction of Kopih village. The entrance to this strait from the eastward is between Teregeh and Berala spit, where it is about one cable wide, with depths of 7 to lH fathoms ; within Teregeh and Berala points the depths decrease to 7, 6, and 4| fathoms. EASTERN ENTRANCE.— Brani Shoals lie at the eastern entrance of New harbour, between Pagar point and Ayer Brani island. They extend, under a depth of 3 fathoms, about half a mile in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction, and from their south-east extreme Teregeh point bears S.W. by W. 4^ cables; from their north-west extreme the eastern part of Teregeh point bears S. | E., 5 cables. The least water upon these shoals is 10 feet, near their centre, over a space about 2 cables in length, and from a few yards to half a cable wide. h2 116 SINGAPORE STRAIT. [chap. n. Buoys. — The channel on their eastern side is marked by three white buoys, one near their south-east extreme, one near their middle, and the other at half a cable inside their north-west end. A white buoy also lies in 10 feet on Brani shoal, about one cable west of the middle white buoy. The soundings decrease gradually towards these shoals, and if the lead be properly attended to, it will show when a vessel is nearing them. Timbaga rocks, dry at low water springs, and lie between Pagar docks and Brani shoals ; they are about half a cable long in a north-west and south-west direction but only a few yards broad. Two red beacons mark these rocks, one on either extreme. Timbaga shoal, about half a cable in extent, and with a depth of 9 feet lies about a cable north-westward of Timbaga rocks, and its north-western end is marked by a red buoy. Both of these dangers have depths of 3 to 5 fathoms within a short distance. South Chaunel lies between Brani reef and Brani shoals, it is about 6 cables long and three-quarters of a mile broad, with depths of 3 to 10 fathoms. Middle Cliaiinel, between Brani shoals and Timbaga rocks, is about one cable broad, with depths of 4^ to 8 fathoms. North. Chanuel, between Timbaga rocks and Pagar docks, is nearly one cable broad, with depths of 4| to 10 fathoms. Anchorage. — The general depths in New harbour are from 6 to 8 fathoms, but the bottom is foul, rocky, and very indifferent holding ground. Staff Commander Richards, R.N., who surveyed this harbour in H.M.S. Saracen, which vessel remained at anchor there for 3 months, remarks :— " The holding ground is bad, and great care is necessary to prevent fouling the anchors ; vessels remaining more than a day should moor." The best anchorage is considered to be off the Torpedo stores, on Ayer Brani island. Caution. — Vessels are not permitted to anchor in the fairway of New harbour, except for such length of time as may be necessary, preparatory to dropping alongside or moving from the wharves. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at the Peninsular and Oriental Company's wharf, at 9h. 45m. ; springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7^ feet, During the north-east monsoon the day tide rises the highest, and in the south-west moonsoon the night tide. The low water at Singapore is afiected by a large diurnal inequality, amounting at times to 6 feet. The ordinary rate of the tide at springs is 2\ knots, but it is much influenced by the prevailing monsoon, and often runs 4 knots at the springs. At the Pagar Dock Co. wharf there is a self-registering tide gauge. The irregularities of the tides are very great, so that no dependence can be placed on them from one day to another ; for although a tide may rise CHAP. II.] SINGAPORE NEW HARBOUR. 117 8 feet one day, it may increase to 10 feet the next, and the contrary. Again the night tide may be the lowest in one 24 hours, — and in the next the morning tide. During the north-east monsoon the neap tides, although the water rises and falls, yet the stream continues to run to the westward, sometimes for two, three, or four days consecutively ; other times it may be as many days quite still ; or a rush of water will flow into and out of the harbour at the rate of 3 and 4 knots. All these fluctuations occur most frequently during the north-east monsoon, and depend chiefly on the force of the wind in the China Sea, yet they sometimes do happen in the south- west monsoon, without any apparent cause. DIRECTIONS.— Western entrance.— Vessels proceeding into New harbour through the western entrance, which is little more than one cable across, should keep in mid-channel, observing that the con- spicuous red bluff forming Tereh point kept well open to the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties, bearing E. ^ N., will lead clear of the 19 feet patch outside the harbour, also of Blayer rock, and the reef extending from the south end of Hantu, on which there is a white beacon. Keppel rock will be avoided if St. James mound be not shut in behind the east extreme of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties ; and after- passing Maeander shoal, a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms abreast the- Torpedo stores.* Approaching the western entrance of New harbour, from the eastward, the channel between the Sisters and Middle island is recommended. Between^ the 3 fathom shoal half a mile westward of the Sisters, and the rock witbr beacon, south-eastward of Middle island, the channel is nearly 1^ miles broad. Pulo Jong kept open eastward of Middle island leads eastward of the rock. Trumbu Silegar, with beacon, nearly one mile north-westward of the Sisters should be given a wide berth, thence to the entrance to New harbour there are no dangers beyond a quarter of a mile offshore. The channel, eastward of the Sisters, between them and West St. John island, is a good channel, and half a mile wide, for which the chart is sufiicient guide. In the fair channel the general depths vary from 10 to 17 fathoms. The tides are very irregular in the passages among these islands, running .sometimes 4 miles an hour at springs. Sastern entrance. — ^Vessels proceeding from Singapore road into- New harbour, should steer to the south-westward, not approaching Malay point nearer than one mile, nor hauling to the westward until mount Faber flagstaff is in line with the left corner of a conspicuous red tiled white house bearing W. by N. J N., which clears Malay spit. In rounding this spit the fishing stakes furnish a ready guide to vessels, the * For the directions for approacbing New harbour from the westward, tee page 102 118 SINGAPORE STRAIT. [chap. n. outer ends of the longest lines of stakes having 3 fathoms water close to them, increasing at a short distance to 5 and 7 fathoms. .Having rounded Malay spit,, steer- to the westward until the two red beacons on the Tim- baga rocks are im line, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W., when they may be steered for.* To proceed through the North channel, Timbaga rock beacons in line should be steered for, until abreast the end of the sea wall of Pagar docks,- when course should be altered to pass between the white buoys on the east side of Timbaga rocks, and the Pagar wharves. Con- tinue to the north-westward, according to circumstances, leaving the red buoy on Timbaga shoal about half a cable on the port hand, and edging to the westward as convenient when Pulo SUugu, with a bungalow on its summit, is seen just open of the red cliffs of Tereh point, which mark clears the north-west extremes of Timbaga and Brani shoals. To proceed through the Middle channel after having rounded Malay spit,, and brought the beacons on Timbaga rock in line, steer about N.W. by W. ^ W. until Mount Paber flagstaff is in line with the left corner of the white house bearing W. by N. ^ N. which will lead about half a cable to the westward of the beacons, and also of the red buoy on Timbaga shoal, and about midway between the latter and the white buoy on the north-west extreme of Brani shoals, in depths of 6 to 4 fathoms, deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms as Pulo Silugu comes open of the red cliffs of Tereh point ; when steer West and W-S.W, to pass mid-channel between the jetties and Tereh point. Vessels may anchor as convenient off the torpedo stores. SINGAPORE TOWN AND ROAD.t SINGAPORE. — The town of Singapore is built on, each side of the Singapore river, a small stream, only navigable for boats, the entrance of which lies N. by E. f E., nearly one mile from Malay point. The commercial part of the town is on the south side of the river, the bank on that side being lined with quays and godowns for the landing and reception of merchandise. The river is usually crowded with cargo boats and many other descriptions of small craft on their way to and from the ships. in the.harbour, presenting a scene of extraordinary bustle and activity. Singapore is a free port ; there are no harbour or tonnage dues. The new post office and master-attendant's office occupy a portion of the site of Pujlerton battery, on the south point of the river, and * Staff Commander J. Eichards observes, that owing to the strong tides and to the hard bottom, the floating beacons frequently break adrift, so that no dependence can be placed upon them ; he therefore recommends strangers to take a pilot. t See Admiralty chart: — Singapore road. No. 1,995; scale, m= 6*0 inchf cHAP.n.] SINGAPORE TOWN AND ROAD. 119 handsome blocks of buildings have been erected to the southward of the spot, upon some land which was reclaimed &om the sea for that purpose. These buildings very much improve the sea front of the town, and are conspicuous as it is approached from the eastward. Dalhousie obelisk stands a littte northward of the north point of the river; close to the southward are two fine buildings, the one standing back is the court house, and that nearer the sea, the town hall; the public offices lie southward of these, and close to the bridge across the mouth of the river. On the north of Dalhousie obelisk, the esplanade extends along th« sea front for the distance of a quarter of a mile, and the drive round it is the fashionable resort of the European residents in the cool of the evening. Behind the esplainade stands St. Andrew's church, one of the finest eccle- siastical structm-es in India, built after the model of Netley Abbey ; the church has a fine tower, surnlounted by a lofty spire, which is very con- spicuous when viev^ed from seaward. To the right of the church is a very large building, a museum and library, named the Baffles Institution ; extending from which in the same direction are a number of handsome detached houses, standing in gardens. Beyond this line of houses, is an extensive native town, the greater part of which is hidden by the sandy point, named Tanjong Bhu. Observation spot.-^Fullerton battety, which formerly stood on the southern point of the entrance to Singapore river, has been demolished. It is important from being the position to which it has been customary of late years to refer the meridian distances obtained in Her Majesty's surveying and other vessels employed upon the station. The observation spot, a square block of stone, situated close behind the master attendant's office, still remains. It was considered to be in lat. 1° 17' 20" N., long. 103° 51' 18" E. : but from a telegraphic determination made by Lieutenant- Commander Green, U. S. Navy,;in 1881-2, lat. 1° 17' 11" N"., and long. 103° 51' 15" E. has been adopted. Landing. — ^Dredging operations are going on slowly in the river, to admit of landing at all times. The landing pier outside the river (Johnston pier) would admit of considerable improvement, as with the least ripple on, embarking or disembarking there becomes a dangerous operation. ' Strait Settlements.— Imports and Exports.— The free port of Singapore, which ranks as the third port in the commerce of India, was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Baffles, who had the sagacity to per- ceive that from its central geographical position, on the direct route between India and China, and but 40 or 50 miles out of the direct route between Europe and China, it could not fail to become a place of great commercial 120 SINGAPORE STRAIT. [chap. a. importance, the rapid growth of Singapore has, however, exceeded all expectation. The total in 1884 amounted to 29,000,000^., the imports being about 16,000,000/., and the exports 13,000,000/. ; about one-fourth is British. The total imports and exports of the Strait Settlements amounted to 42,000,000/; that of Penang being 12,000,000/., and Malacca about 1,000,000/. The chief imports are — From Europe and North America: Treasure, cotton manufactures woollens, beer and wines, arms and ammunition, iron and ironwork, copper and yellow metal, lead, earthenware, and canvas. From Calcutta: Opium, grain, saltpetre, gunnie bags. From China : Gold bars and dust, sycee silver and dollars, china cash, sugar, tea, camphor, cassia, alum, raw thread, silk, tobacco. From the Dutch ports in Java : Treasure, tobacco, rice, pepper, gambler, coffee, cottons, birds' nets, cloves, cassia, cinnamon, other spices . From Borneo ; Unprepared sago, antimony ore, rattans, gutta percha from Sarawak, and coal from Labuan. From Celebes : Sandal wood, sapan wood, coffee and gutta percha, the products of the island, and of mother of pearl, bartered for with the natives of New Gruinea and other islands to the south-east of the Archi- pelago. Birds' nests and a small quantity of bees-wax also form items of importation from Celebes. From Sumatra : .Pepper, sago, coffee, gutta percha, gum benjamin, gum elastic, and ivory. From the Malayan peninsula : Chiefly rice, gutta percha, and tin ; small supplies of i\ ory, horns, hides, and birds' nescs. From Australia : Chiefly horses, bread-stuffs, coals from the mines at New South Wales, and sandal wood from Western Australia. The chief articles of export are : — Tin, gambier, sago, tapioca, sugar, pepper, tortoise shell, mother of pearl, gutta percha, india rubber, nutmegs, and mace, camphor, gum elastic, coffee, tobacco, sapan wood, sticklae, rattans, and most of the articles enumerated among the imports. Of these, the only articles produced to any extent in our own territories, are gambia and pepper in Singapore ; tapioca, chiefly in Malacca and Wellesley ; rice, in Wellesley and Malacca, and sugar in Wellesley. Shippiug. — During the year 1884, the number of arrivals at Singapore was 2,951, with a tonnage of 2,288,118 tons; and 2,863 departures, with a tonnage of 2,235,278 tons. Of native craft 5,321 arrived, and 5,359 left. The number of British vessels registered at this port amount to 298 sailing vessels of the tonnage of 20,000 tons, and 55 steam vessels of 13,300 tons. 95 vessels were built here in 1884, amounting to 4,527 tons burthen. CHAP, n.] SINGAPORE TOWN AND EOAD. 121 During the year 1883, the total arrivals, including all the Straits Settle- ments, amounted to 13,820. There is a shipping office at the port. Climate. — The island of Singapore is hot, with but little variation of temperature, the thermometer usually ranging from 70° .to 90° ; the total rainfall is about 100 inches. The monsoons are little felt on the island, but it is kept in a perpetual state of verdure by frequent showers. There are no diseases nor ailments due to climatic causes against wliich special precautions are necessary. For winds in the strait see page 2, also wind charts. Hospital. — -^ large hospital, built in 1882, has 50 beds, in tlie seaman's wards, and 10 in the crtficers. The sailors' home accommodates 95. Revenue. — The total amount of the revenue of the Straits Settle- ments, from all sources for the year 1883, amounted to 559,000/. The duty on the export of tin forms the largest item of the revenue. Fopulatiou. — The population of the Straits Settlements in 1881, amounted to 423,384; that of Singapore being 139,208 ; Penang, 90,951 ; Province Wellesley, 97,324; Malacca, 93,579 ; aud the Bindings, 2,322. The population of Singapore consists of 2,769 Europeans ; 22,155 Malays ; 86,766 Chinese ; and 12,058 natives of India. Comtnunicatioil. — There is weekly communication between Singapore and England by the Messageries Maritime Company's mail steam vessels, via Ceylon and Marseilles, not calling at Penang ; and by the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steam vessels, via Ceylon and Brindisi, about 29 days. There is also regular communication by steam vessels between Singapore, Calcutta, Batavia, and Hong Kong; to the eastern ports of Australia by way of Torres straits monthly, and bi- monthly via Galle ; and to Western Australia about once in two months. There is also constant communication between the ports of the Straits Settlements, and Bangkok, Saigon, and the principal ports of Borneo and Sumatra. Telegraph. — Singapore has telegraphic communication by sub- marine cable with Madras via Penang ; Australia via Batavia; and Hong Kong vik Saigon. FORT CANNING. — Rising abruptly behind, and overlooking the town of Singapore, is a hill 156 feet high, upon which formerly stood a bungalow, the residence of the governor ; now, however, the crest of the hill is covered by a large fort, named fort Canning, in honour of the late Viceroy of India. Ifear the middle of the fort is a flagstaff, crossed with two yards, which is used during the day to signal the arrival of vessels. LIGHT. — A Jixed white light is exhibited from a flagstaff in fort Canning, at an elevation of 256 feet above the level of the sea. It is visible through an arc of 68°, between the bearings N.JsT.W. ^ W. and 122 SINGAPORE STRAIT. [chap. ii. W. ^ S., or from one mile eastward of Peak island to one mile soatliward of Johoi-e shoal. In very clear weather it may possibly be seen from a distance of 20 miles. ' , , . SINGAPORE ROAD*in which the depths are from 6 to 10 fathoms, mud, is sitaated on the southern side of Singapore island, between the shore bank extending north-eastward from Malay spit, and Outer shoal, which is a portion of the mud bank fronting the shore between St. John islands aad Tanjong Katong, the eastern limit of the road bedng defined by a line drawn from Tanjong Katong obelisk to that on the south-east extreme of Peak island. The limits of Singapore harbour, defined by the Colonial Government, 2lst June 1877, are comprised within the lines joining the obelisk on Tanjong Katong and that on Peak island^ the north-west extreme of Peak island, and south extreme of Blakan Mati ; the east and north coast of Blakan Mati, and the coast from Blayer point to the obelisk on Tanjong Katong. Banks. — Outer Shoal, lying on the south-east boundary of Singa- pore road, is 1-J miles long in a north-east and south-west direction, and from one to 5 cables in breadth, having depths of 4 to 5 fathoms over the greater part of it, but some patches of 3;^ to 3 J fathoms near its southern extreme, "f From the north-east end of the shoal, in 5 fathoms, the obelisk on Tanjong Katong bears N. ^ E., and fort Canning flagstaff is just to the northward of the obelisk on the north side of the.river entrance ; from its south-eastern extreme fort Canning flagstaff bears N.N.W. ^ W. The -whole of fort Canning kept just open northward of the obelisk, bearing N.W. by W. \ W., will lead clear of the north end of Outer shoal ; Peak island S.W. by S. will lead eastward of it ; and the southern extreme of Blakan Mati island S.W. by W. ^ "W. will lead northward. A small patch, about 2 cables in extent, having 4 fathoms least water, lies about a third of a mile south-westward of Outer shoal, and from its centre, fort Canning flagstaff bears N.N.W. and Peak island S. by W. Mount Serapong bearing W. J N. leads between this patch and Outer shoal, and bearing W. by N. f N. leads to the southward of it. Inside Outer shoal are depths of from 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, decreasing gradually to 7 or 6 fathoms, but shoaling suddenly from a depth of 5 to 3 fathoms; when fort Canning flagstaff bears to the northward of N.W. by W. ^ W., caution is necessary in large vessels anxious to get as close in as possible. With fort Canning flagstaff to the westward of * See Admiralty plan i^Singapore road, No. 1,995, scale, »i = 6 inches. For winds and weather see pages 2 and 91. f This bank is shoaling rapidly. In 1846, when surveyed by Mr. Thompson, Government surveyor, the general depths upon it were 5J and 6 fathoms, and the least water 4i ; in 1867 the general depths were but 4 and 4^ fathoms, and the least water 3| fathoms. CHAP.u.] SINGAPORE HOAD. 123 N.W, by W. ^ W., the soundings diecriease more regularly. The 2-fathoms line extends nearly half a mile south-eastward of Johnston pier, and neatly ■ three-quarters of a mile from the depth of Singapore bay. The outer extremity of the fishing stakes marks the 3-fathoms edge of the shore bank, eastward of Malay point. Buran J)a,T&t is the name of an extensive coral reef which uncovers at two-thirds ebb, and fronts the eastern shore of Blakan Mati island, being separated from the shore reef by a narrow channel, with depths of 4 to 8 fathoms. The reef is about a mile long, in a north-east by north, and south-east by south direction, a quarter of a mile broad at the northern end, and terminates in a point at its southern extreme. There is a detached patch of J ^ fathoms with 3;J to 4 fathoms close around, lying about one cable northward of thte north edge of the reef ; Teregeh point bearing "W. J S. leads northward botli of this patch' and Eerala spit. The north-eastern extreme of Buran Darat is marked by a white beacon. Malay spit, a mud and sand flat, with several patches of rocks, and which dries at two-thirds ebb, fronts the small bay between Pagar docks and Malay point, projecting in a south-easterly direction to the distance of a third of a mile. Shoal water, under 3 fathoms, extends about 3 cables outside the spit, and its edge is marked by several lines of fishing stakes. Malay or Malang point, the south-western limit of Singapore road is nearly ojie mile south of the entrance of Singapore river. Tanjong Pagar village lies on the west side of it, from whence the shore takes a south-westerly direction for nearly half a mile to Pagar sea wall, the termi- nation of which is tho entrance to New harbour. A mud-fiat fronts the whole shore of Singapore road from abreast Malay point to Tanjong Katong, varying in distance from a half to tWo cables from the shore. Tanjong Rhu, or Sandy pjOint, is the extreme of the land extending IJ miles West from Tanjong Katong, and forming the northern shore of Singapore road. It is separated from the western shore of the bay by a channel a quarter of a mile wide, with about 3 feet water at low spring tides. Inside Tanjong Ehii is an extensive shallow lagoon, convenient for the anchorage of boats and native craft, and many are to be seen there at certain seasons. Some shipwrights' yards are now established at this point, and many small vessels go there to be repaired. Tanjong Katong, or Deep-water point, forming the north- eastern boundary of Singapore road, lies N.N.E. 4^ miles from St. John islands. The obelisk, which marks the harbour limit in this direction stands about a cable westward of the point. The coast for some distance to the westward of Tanjong Katong, is low land, covered with cocoa-nut plantations. 121 SINGAPORE STRAIT. [chap. ii. Fishing Stakes. — Lines of fishing stakes extend from the coabt about Tanjong Katong, over the shallow bank fronting the coast, and close to the ends of the stakes are from 2 to 5 fathoms water, but these soundings are in a narrow run of deep water, behind the harbour bank, the 5-fathoms line at the edge of which is about three-quarters of a mile distant from the point. Between the deep water close to the point, and the 5-fathoms line out- side of it, are several patches with but 15 and 16 feet water over them, and two patches with as little as 12 feet. The eastern of these lies S.E. by E. ^ E. from the obelisk, distant half a mile from the nearest shore, and the western lies S. by W. ^ W. nearly three-quarters of a mile from the obelisk. These shoals will be avoided by keeping mount Serapong westward of S.W. by W. ^ W. until the flagstaff on fort Canning bears W. by N. ^ N. ; or by not shoaling under a depth of 6 fathoms. ANCHORAGE. — The trade of Singapore is now so considerable that a large number of vessels can always be found anchored in the road within the harbour limits, and small vessels may run in, guided by their soundings, and anchor where they can find a convenient berth. Vessels of large draft must be more cautious, on account of the soundings decreasing suddenly from 5 to 4 and 3 fathoms. Good, safe anchorage, in from 7 to 10 fathoms water, will be found with the flagstaff on fort Canning between the bearings of W. by N. ^ N. and N.W. ^ N., and with mount Serapong bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., or the left extreme of Blakan Mati S.W. i W. Vessels of War. — The most convenient anchorage for vessels of war, and the nearest to the shore, is with the flagstaff on fort Canning in line with the obelisk on the pier, and the left extreme of Blakan Mati island bearing from S.W. ^ W. to S.W. i W. ; or the obelisk on Tanjong Katong fromN.E.byN. toN.E. | N. She will then be in 9 fathoms at a little more than 2 cables from the 3-fathom edge of the bank, and 1 ^ miles from the landing place. To indicate this anchorage, a conical, red buoy, with a staff and plate, marked man-of-war anchorage, is moored in 10 fathoms, with fort Canning flagstaff in Une with the obelisk on the pier, and the obelisk distant l^mUes. A space one cable in width, marked by the flagstaff and obelisk in line, and extending from the shore to the buoy, is reserved for vessels of war of all nations, exclusively. This buoy is occasionally dragged from its proper position, but is replaced by the harbour authorities with as little delay as possible. During the sea breeze, a choppy sea gets up, especially on the ebb, rendering it dangerous for boats alongside. CHAP. 11.] SINGAPORE ROAD. — DIRECTIONS. 125 The quarantine anchorage is with the obelisk on Tanjong Katong bearing N.N.W., in not less than II fathoms water. DIRECTIONS.^ — When bound to Singapore road from the west- ward, and having rounded Peak island at the distance of about 2 Cables, steer N. by E. or N.N.E. according to the tide, across the Outer shoal for the anchorage. A large vessel wishing to avoid Outer shoal may steer to the northward with Peak island bearing between South and S. by E., until the left extreme of Blakan Mati bears S.W. by W. ^ W., which bearing kept on will lead north-westward of Outer shoal, and then steer as convenient for the anchorage. In working towards the dangers between St. John islands and Blakan Mati, care must be observed not to bring Peak island eastward of S. ^ E. while mount Serapong is northward of W.N.W. ; but when mount Serapong is westward of that bearing, a vessel may stand on until the western extreme of West St. John island bears S. by W. i W. The shoalest spots on Outer shoal will be avoided by not bringing Peak island westward of South, after the south extreme of Blakan Mati bears W. by S. The fishing stakes will give warning when a vessel is standing towards Malay spit. The south extreme of Blakan Mati, if not brought westward of S.W. by W. ^ W., will lead inside of Outer shoal ; and large vessels not wishing to stand over this shoal, when outside of it, should not bring Peak island southward of S.W. by S. Small vessels bound to Singapore road from the eastward will have no diflB.culty, as they have merely to proceed to a convenient anchorage. Those drawing between 12 and 16 feet may pass inside the shoals off Tanjong Katong, by keeping in the run of deep water, pretty close to the end of the lines of fishing stakes which extend out from that point. Vessels of larger draught had better keep outside those shoals, and in approaching them must be careful not to bring mount Serapong (on Blakan Mati island), to the southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., until the flagstaff on fort Canning bears W. by N. ^ N., or to avoid getting under a depth of 6 fathoms. It is advisable for sailing vessels, and the usual custom for those be- longing to the port, to keep these shoals well aboard when proceeding to the anchorage from the eastward, when the wind is off the land and the tide setting to the westward. A vessel of large draught will pass north-eastward of Outer shoal and not have less than 5 fathoms water, by keeping the flagstaff between the bearings of W. by K". ^ N. and N.W. by W., and she should be prepared to anchor directly mount Serapong bears S.W. by W. ^ W., or the left extreme of Blakan Mati S.W. ^ W., inside of which vessels of heavy draught 126 SIXaAPORE STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [ohap. n. should not go ; but those drawing not more than 18 or 20 feet may go a cable or so farther in, and have 4 or 5 fathoms. EASTEElSr PAET OP SINGAPORE STRAIT. SOUTH SHORE.— This pai-t of Singapore strait eastward of the Sambo islands, is formed by Pulo Battam, an island of considerable size lying on the west side of Rhio strait, and by the larger island Pulo Bentan on the east side of Rhio strait.* BATTAM BAY lies close eastward of S3.mbo island, and is 7^ miles wide, and 2 miles deep, being bounded to, the westward by the two Sambo islands, and to the eastward by the peninsula of which Sikwang point is the north-west extreme. Tanjong Pingi, the north-west point of Battam bay, lies about 1^ miles south-eastward of Pulo Sambo ; a reef extends from the point to the distance of half a cable. The soundings in the outer part of the bay vary from 10 to 20 fathoms ; but close to the reefs extending from the shores, are depths of 6 to 8 fathoms, so caution is necessary in approaching them. Three rivers fall into the bay ; the Mentaru, Ladi, and Jodu, the two latter are separated by Tanjong Oma, a strip of land three-quarters of a mile wide, having a hill near the point. Pulo DRUgaS is an islet on the south shore of Battam bay, close to a projecting point situated 1;^ miles east of Tanjong Pingi. The bay between this islet and Pulo Bokok, is free from danger, and the shore reefs extend off but a short distance ; vessels may therefore safely anchor there in about 5 fathoms water. The bay westward of Pulo Dangas is filled with coral, which extends about a quarter of a mile from that island in a north-westerly direction ; thence nearly straight to Tanjong Pingi. Pulo Bokok, or Mangrove island, 4 cables in diameter, lies about that distance off Tanjong Liengsi, on the southern shore of the bay, and 1| miles east of Pulo Dangas ; it is encompassed by the coral reef projecting from the shore, and which extends about IJ cables beyond it. Jodu bay is the name of the anchorage off the two small rivers Jodu and Lapi, in the depth of Battam bay. It lies between Pulo Bokok and two small reefs dry at low water, which lie off the entrance of Sungi Jodu, a third of a cable outside the shore reef which fringes the whole coast line from Sikwang point to Pulo Bokok, and obstructs the mouths of all the rivers. Vessels should enter the bay with the hill over Tanjong Oma bearing about S.E., and anchor in 5 or 4 fathoms, with Pulo Bokok abeam, ♦ See Admiralty eharte: — Singapore strait, No. 2,403 ; scale, m = 0-66 of an inch. CHAP, n.] _ BATTAM BAT.— ROSA ROCK. 127 and about 4 cables distant. The depths decrease suddenly from 7 to 3 fathoms towards Pulo Bokok, but more regularly towards the shoals on the opposite side of the bay^ Sikwang point and Tanjong Pengair are, respectively, the north-west and north-east extremes of a peninsula which projects from about the nilddle of the north coast of Battam, separating Battam and Bulaiig bays. The land in the vicinity consists of moderately elevated hills, and the coast line is fringed with coral extending one or 2 cables off, near the edge of which are irregular depths, of from 6 to 11 fathoms. BULANG BAY, situated about 2 miles eastward of Battam bay, is 2f miles wide between Tanjong Pengair and Tanjong Pekapu, and 2^ miles deep, narrowing towards its headj into which fall the rivers Tring and Belie-an. The shores of the bay are fronted by reefs which extend barely a quarter of a mile from the entrance points, but more than double that distance within them ; and from a point a mile south-eastward of Tanjong Pengair, a coral spit, with 15 feet over it, projects in an E. f N". direction nearly one mile. A small detached reef, part of which dries 3. feet, lies at the entrance of Bulang bay, with its outer edge E. ^ N". one mile from Tanjong Pengair. Eastward of this reef the depths are 3f and 4 fathoms for about one mile, and then 5 and 6 fathoms towards Tanjong Pekapu. Outside the line of the heads the depths are 8 to 11 fathoms, increasing suddenly to 23 fathoms ; and between the reef and Tanjong Pengair the depths are 4 to 8 fathoms. Ancborage. — The best anchorage in this bay for vessels of moderate draught is in about 6 fathoms, with Pulo Nongsa bearing N.E. ^ E., and the hill over Tanjong Pekapu, East. Small vessels may, with proper attention to the lead and a good look-out, go farther in. Eastward of Tanjong Pekapu, the coast is fronted by a coral flat ex- tending nearly a third of a mile from the shore. Pulo Nongsa, a small island one-third of a mile in extent with a high tree upon it, lies about a mile to the northward of Tanjong Pekapu, and nearly three-quarters of a mile off Tanjong Batu Bla, the nearest point of Pulo Battam. This island is surrounded by a reef, extending about a quarter of a mile off, between which and the shore reef is a narrow channel having depths of 5 to 13 fathoms. Pul^Nongsa is rather a conspicuous object when near this part of the strait, and if kept open of Tanjong Bulang will lead a vessel clear of Little Pan reef. Rosa rock, nearly one mile E. by N. from Pulo Nongsa, and 2 cables northward of the shore reef extending from Tanjong Bulang, dries at low water, with 10 to 12 fathoms close to its north side. 128 SINGAPORE STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. ii. TANJONG- BULANG, or NongSa, the most northern point of Pulo Battam, lies nearly a mile north-east from Tanjong Batu Bla, the coast between forming a bay, in which, on the banks of a small stream, is the Malay village of ISTongsa. This bay is filled with coral dry at low water, the edge of which extends half a mile from the shore as far as Tanjong Bulang. From the east side of that point the shore reef does not extend farther out than 2 cables, thence to Tanjong Bombang, entrance to llhio strait, a distance of about 3 miles in a S.E. by E. direction, it projects three-quarters of a mile from the shore. PULO BENTAN is the largest island on the south side of Singa- pore strait ; the north side of this island is about 16 or 17 miles in length, in an east and west direction, the greater part being taken up by Sumpat bay ; several dangers lie off the island, which will be described in detail. Like most of the other land forming the strait of Singapore, it is covered with trees, and, excepting the hills inland, is not much elevated. Bentdn Great and Little Hills. — Bentan Great hill is situated about 6J miles from the nothern shore of the island, and may be seen in clear weather about 40 miles, being 1,253 feet high, and is a good mark in approaching the entrance of Singapore strait from the northward. When viewed from that direction, it shows a saddle-shaped summit ; and appearing to adjoin it on the north side, but in reality 3 miles distant, is a conical hill, named False Bentan, or Bentan Little hill, 792 feet high, the summit of which is in line with the saddle of the large hill when bearing S. 9° E. Tanjong Subong, the north-western point of Pulo Bentan, lying 13 miles E. \ S. from Tanjong Bulang, Crocodile shoal, and Pan reefs, in the entrance of Rhio strait, are included in the description of that strait (see pages 425-6). Tanjong Perjam. — ^From Tanjong Subong the The south-west side of the island is steep to, there being ] fathoms, mud, close to the rocks ; on the north-east side a 160 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [cuAr. iir. coral reef projects half a cable from the shore, with 5 or 6 fathoms close to the edge of the reef, which is in most places distinctly visible.* AncllOrage. — The best anchorage near Pulo Kas is in 7J fathoms mud, with the south-east point of the island bearing S.S.W. Anchor nearer to the island than the main land in order to avoid a sand spit which projects a short distance from the shore. Here a vessel is sheltered from all winds, which blow with much violence on this coast, and in weighing may pass out on either side of the island. With Pulo Kas bearing East, distant one mile, there is good holding ground in 12 fathoms. Bound into the anchorage do not round the south-east point of Pulo Kas at less than half a cable distant, as a reef, on the outer end of which there is a depth of 3 fathoms, extends nearly that distance. There is 9^ fathoms close to the edge of the reef. Passing out to the north-west from the anchorage, the least water in mid- channel is 5^ fathoms, in the narrow part between Patih point and the north-east point of the island. Patih. (Patty) is a small pepper port on the mainland, north-east of Pulo Kas ; joining the town is a small green hill covered with cocoa nut trees, which can be seen by a vessel from the southward, at a considerable distance. A reef with rocks above water, border the bight in which Patih is situated, Pulo Kecllil is a small wooded islet about half a mile from Pulo Kas ; a cluster of rocks above water extend from the island a quarter of a mile in a westerly direction, with a depth of 7 fathoms close to the outer rock. On the south side of Pulo Kechil there are depths of 3 or 4 fathoms, coral, deepening towards Pulo Kas.f A vessel anchoring on the south side of Pulo Kechil should keep nearer to Pulo Kas than to the rocks, where the bottom is soft, in about 8^ fathoms. Prom Pulo Kas to Pejabah islands there appears to be no danger. About 1^ miles S.S.B. from Pulo Kas there is a rocky bank about one mile in extent, on which the least water is 7 fathoms. Between Daya and Ketapang Pasier, excepting on the shoals, the bottom is soft. PEJABAH ISLANDS form tlie harbour of Telok Kalumpang, one of the most considerable pepper ports on this* part of the coast. The islands are small and lie close together about a mile from the main; the largest is named Pejabah Besar, the smallest and outer one Pejabah * See Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale m = 0-1 of an inch. t Pulo Kechil is apparently the islet on the reef fronting Patih. — Ed. CHAP. III.] PATIH. — PEJABAH ISLANDS. 161 Kechil; these two islets are nearly the same height. Pejahah Kechil has a round appearance on the top with a smooth outline, the trees being more uniform in height than in the other islet, which has several high trees of irregular height. There is a coral reef with 12 feet water, extending about 1^ cables from the inshore side of these islands. Two cables S.W. by W. from the outer island is a rock 15 feet high, with 11 fathoms close-to on the seaward side ; there is also a rock nearly awash and which always breaks bearing S. by E. from the same island, distant a third of a mile. Between Fejabah islands and the main land is Pulo Kluang ; this island is 300 or 400 feet high, larger and higher than the Pejabahs, and covered with trees, but lying close to the land is not so conspicuous as the other islands ; it is bold-to all round except on the eastern side. Telok Kalumpang (Gultunpung) point or peninsula is a green hill nearly the same height as Pulo Kluang, with only a few scattered trees and a house on the summit; it is based by rocky clifEs and con- nected with the mainland by a low sandy isthmus, and on some bearings has the appearance of an island. AnchorEge. — Vessels bound to Telok Kalumpang usually pass between the Pejabahs and Pulo Epu Tyikem. The only clanger in this track is the small rock before mentioned, which bears S. by E. from little Pejabah island distant one-third of a mile ; close to the cliffs of Telok Kalumpang there is a depth of 8 fathoms. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, mud and sand, with the Pejabahs bearing N.W., and Pulo Kluang N.E. by N., but vessels shipping pepper anchor much nearer the town, and in 8 fathoms, half way between Telok Kalumpang and Pulo Kluang. During the period of April to September, vessels should moor open hawse to the north-west ; the bottom is sand, and there is no room to drive nor to put to sea. Pulo Tyikem (Cheekem) is a high bluff island 2^ miles south- eastward of Pulo Pejabah, in appearance like a Scotch cap ; rocks above water extend one cable in a S.S.E. direction from the south-east part ; there are depths of 8^ fathoms close to the outer rock. A coral reef with 12 feet water extends 1^ cables from the north-east part of the island. Pulo Epu Tyikem situated 14 cables to the westward of Pulo Tyikem, is much lower than the latter island. Bearing N.N".E. it presents a wedge-shaped appearance, though the outline is rather uneven ; there are 10 or 11 fathoms close outside the island. About three-quarters of a mile east from Pulo Tyikem are three black rocks 10 feet high, having 5^ and 7 fathoms close to on the seaward side ; on the eastern side there are a few small rocks awash. U 20665. L 162 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chaimii. KEhnU, a considerable pepper port, is situated 1^ mites eastward from Palo Tyikem. The best anchorage at this' port is in 10 fathoms, sand, with Pulo Tyikem bearing N.W. by N,, the southern black' rock N.E. i E., and Rahnu E. 5 N. one mile distant. Nearer to the town the bottom is sand, interspersed with coral and shells. ' About half a mile south-eastward of Rahnu is a small island named Epu Rahnu, lying within a few yards of the shore, and joined to it by rocks. Its appearance is entirely different from that of the cokst, the shore from Telok Kalumpang point to Rigas being quite low, the trees growing close to the sandy beach ; Pulo Epu Rahnu on the contrary is' a pile of rocks about 50 feet high, of a kind similar to the other islands, with trees on its summit ; there is also a rock above water on the north-west side iearly joining the island. GilliS reef. — Three-quarters of a mile W. by S. ^ S. from Pulo Epu Rahnu is a dangerous reef which seldom breaks. The least water is 11 feet, but the shoalest part is not more than 40 or 60 yards in extent and very uneven, with 11 fathoms close to its outer edge. From the shoalest part the outer points of Pulo Epu Tyikem and Pulo Pejabah Kechil are in line ; by keeping the Pejabahs in sight to the westward of Pulo Epu Tyikem will lead outside the reef, and Pulo Epu Rahnu and the peak of Rigas hill kept in line will lead about a quarter of a mile south-east of the reef . There is also a cluster of rocks above water lying a third of a mile S. f W. from Pulo Epu Rahnu ; close to them on the outside are soundings of 8 fathoms. Between Pulo Epu Rahnu and Rigas point there is a bay encumbered with coral shoals ; in this bay is a small pepper port named Jabih. RIGAS BAY. — Rigas Point, the north-west point of entrance to Rigas bay, is low, rocky, and covered with trees ; the extremity is a little more elevated than the adjoining land. A short distance inland there are one or two hills partly cleared, and a number of scattered trees. In the channel between Pulo Rangas and Rigas point there is a depth of 11 fathoms.* From Rigas point the shore is fringed with a coral reef as far as Rambung point a steep hill forming the inner north-west point of Rigas bay ; neai'ly all the land in the bay is high with the exception of marshy land at the north-east part of the bay. About half a mile east of Rigas poiat the reef projects in one place 2 cables from the shore, this part is dry in some places with a small detached rock which always^ breaks ; the passage between Rambung point and Pulo Rusum is about a quarter of a mile wide, with several rocks above water. ^ * See plan of Bigas bay, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale, m = 1 inch ; also foot- note, page 152. CHAP, in.] BAHNU. — UIGAS HARBOTJB. 163 PulO Rangas, ia a pile of rocks SO or 60 feet high, and covered with trees. The highest trees on this island are visible on a clear day 17 miles ; on the north-enst side of the island a coral bank with 3J fathoms water projects a cable distant, with a depth of 12 fathoms close to its edge. At a cable distant from the north-west point there is a small rock which always breaks, elsewhere the island is' bold having 12 or 13 fathoms close to it. ■ On the south-east side of the island there are two high' rocks, steep- to all round, and nearly joining the island. A small rock 4 feet high, lies E. by S. half a mile from Pulo Eangas. Ancborage. — A vessel may anchor on either side of Pulo Rangas within a quarter of a mile, in 12 or 13 fathoms, mud. There is also good anchorage between Pulo Rangas and Rigas point, and between Pulo Rangas and Pasier Besar, in 11 fathoms, mud and fine sand. See foot note, p. 152. Rigas Islands.— Ptdo Rusum, the largest of these islands, is half a mile long north and south, and lies across the entrance to Rigas bay ;. it is high on the west side, with steep rocky cHfEs and covered with trees,; on the, east side there is a small space of low land with a number of cocoa-nut trees. Rusum rock lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. ^ W. from the centre of Rusum island ; a quarter of a mile N.W. from Rusum rock is a small rock steep-to, having 2J fathoms water. Rocks. — Two rocks lying close together, with a least depth of 2 fathoms, and 6 fathoms close to, lies with the east point of Pulo Rusum bearing N.E. by N. distant 3^ cables ; and a rock, with probably less than 6 feet, which breaks in bad weather, lies with the same point bearing N, by W. 4 W., distant 2^ caljles. Pulo Engang lies a cable eastward of the south-east point of Pulo Rusum, and is a pile of steep rocks covered with trees. Pulo Samete, lying to the north-east of Pulo Rusum, is low and has a number of trees on it. Pulo Pogase consists of two rocks joined, surmounted by a few bushes or small trees, Selung peninsula, forming the south part of Rigas bay, is 400 or 5QP feet high with high rocky cliffs; like all the land in the vicinity of Rigas, excepting that under cultivation, it is covered ■with trees from summit to the cliffs. The peninsula in joined to the mainland by a low sandy isthmus and therefore appears very much like an island. Tanjong Selung forms the southern point of Rigas bay. Tanjong Batu Tntung, also rocky and high, is about three-quarters of a mile north- ward of Selung point ; between these points is formed a bay a third of a mile deep, with, a sandy beach. Rigas harbour is formed between Pulo Engang and Piiilo Sam- ete on the west, and Tanjong Batu Tutung on the east; it is -about half I, 2 164 WEST COAST OP SUMATRA. [chap. m. one mile in length and a third of a mile in breadth. Though Rigas bay is 4 or 5 miles in circumference this is the only safe anchorage it contains, nearly the whole of the remainder is covered with coral reefs which are dry in many places at low water. Inside Pulo Rusum, between the reefs which join that island and those extending from Pulo Pogase, there is a clear space with 3^ and 4 fathoms, sand, where there is sufficient room for a vessel to heave down, and where the water is always smooth. By buoy- ing the channel a vessel could easily be warped between Pulo Eusum and Pulo Engang ; there is also a passage round the north side of Rusum, but .more difficult of access. In an easterly direction from Batu Tutung point is a small cove where a vessel might perhaps heave down to the rocks on the shore. Town. — The town of Rigas on the north-west side of Rigas bay, is a considerable pepper port. Directions. — Anchorage. — A. vessel bound to Rigas should pass between Pasier Besar and Pulo Rangas. The entrance to the harbour is between Pulo Rusum and Selung point, passing about one cable from the point which is steep-to, with the south extreme of Pulo Samete N.N.E. | E., to avoid the rock north-west of the point, distant about 3 cables. From abreast the point course may be altered to about I^ cables off Batu Tutung, where there is anchorage in about 5 fathoms, with Tanjong Batu Tutung S.E. Between Pulo Engang and Pulo Samete there is a line of coral i-eefs, dry in some places at low water, which forms the north-west .boundary of the anchorage. A vessel in Rigas harbour is nearly land- locked ; it is considered to be one of the best on the coast, but is well known to be one of the most unhealthy. For the latter reason it is advisable for a vessel waiting to load pepper or other produce to anchor in a clear space eastward of Rusum rock in 9 fathoms, where the bottom is dark green sand, or sand and mud, at about 1| miles from Rigas (and no farther off the town than from the anchorage in the harbour), with the rocks on Rigas point just touching the inner ipoint of Pejabah Besar. Pejabah Besar may be known by its being the first island which will come in line with Rigas point after shutting in Pulo Epu Rahnu, and by a clump of trees on the inner extremity ; the rest of the island appears low and level. A vessel in this berth appears to be very near Rusum rock, but she swings in that direction only with the land wind. Vessels should moor with a good scope of cable, else the currents and variable winds will soon cause the vessel to foul her anchor. From October to April the heavy anchor should be placed to the southward and the •stream to the north-west ; and the reverse after April has commenced as N.W. winds are then expected. CHAP. III.] KIGA8 HARBOUR. — PASIER ISLETS. 165 On this coast gales are of rare occurrence, and they seldom blow directly on shore, but more frequently along the coast. With north-westers (which, with few exception, are the only winds that blow with much violence) there would not be so much sea as to prevent a vessel riding in safety — if there should be, there is abundance of room to slip and go into the harbour or to sea. Landing. — in passing to and from the shore, boats should be cautious to avoid a coral spit which projects from the north-west part of Pulo Rusum; this breaks sometimes, as also does a small rock which lies near the edge of the reef between Bigas and Eambung points ; the rock is nearly awash. Rigas hill or Bukit Kwali. — This is one of the best marks on the coast of Sumatra as it is isolated and can be seen a distance of 40 miles in clear weather ; nearly the whole of the south side is cleared and has the appearance of land under cultivation. The peak is covered with trees and bears from Rigas town N. by W., distant 1^ miles. On a south- easterly bearing Rigas hill shows two peaks — the northern being lower and smaller than the other ; each side of the hill slopes very gradually, the south-east side terminating in Rigas bay ; when bearing north-west, Rigas hill shows only one peak, the sides appearing much steeper than when bearing south-east. This hill can be seen in clear weather from neais Tanjong Bukuan ; it then appears to be the western extremity of the coast and shows as an island. Pasier (Pahsee) Islets are two small groups of rocky islets witL trees on them, lying south-eastward of Selung peninsula, the farther onir- being distant 1 J miles. The passage between the islets and the peninsula is intricate and unsafe ; there appears to be no danger near them on the sea- ward side, except Pasier rock, which is above water, and 3 cables S.S.W. of Pasier Besar. The sides of this rock are perpendicular, having 10 or 11 • fathoms within a few feet of it ; there are also depths of 10 or 11 fathoms near the islets. * Selung (Ketapang Pasier) bay inshore of the Pasier islets is easy of access and affords shelter from north-west winds. A vessel seeking shelter during a N.W. gale could anchor anywhere between Pasier islets and ' the main, in smooth water of a moderate depth. Johore reef, of coral, one cable in diameter, and with a depth of 4 feet, lies with the south-east extreme of the promontory of Selung bearing W, by N. ^ N., distant- ly^ miles ; other shoals may exist. Ketapang Pasier, a village on the mainland, with a cluster of cocoa-nut trees near it, is situated E. by N., nearly 2 J miles from the largest of the Pasier islets. * See plan of Bigas bay, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,750. 166 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iir. PANGAH, a small pepper port, is situated 4 or 5 miles' to the south- east of Ketapang Pasier Village. The adjacent coast is loiv, with a sandy beach, and there is no mark as a guide to the situation, except a small break in the trees. Tenom. — Between Ketapang Pasier and Bubu bay the coast which is imperfectly known extends south-eastward about 35 miles, and is nearly straight, it is, however, said to be safe to approach within a moderate distance ; no shoals are known to exist, except a reef which extends about one mile off Tenom village, situated 16 miles north-westward of Bubu bay, though it is said there is one near Waila (Wylah) river not far from the shore.* The coast is quite low with a sandy beach, and without any remarkable objects ; near the shore grow arroon trees (similar in appear- ance to the pine) ; they commence near Ketapang Pasier and extend to Waila river a distance of 27 miles, the whole extent ^of trees presenting a regular and uniform appearance. From Waila river for a distance of 2 miles south-eastward, there is an opening where there are no high trees, except a conspicuous clump of five or six very tall ones, standing in the centre of the opening ; there are also a few cocoa-nut trees, and several houses a short distance south-east of them, but the latter cannot be seen far. From this break the arroon trees commence again, and extend in the same close uiiiform order 4 or 5 miles farther, and terminating close to Tanjong Bubu. This is the best mark to distinguish this point as there is not one arroon tree between it and Analabu.t BUBU BAY. — Tanjong Bubu, the western extreme of Bubu bay, is a low point, with a small group of tall cocoa-nut trees near it ; they stand northward of the extremity, and are not visible, except the tops over the other trees, when the point bears N.N.W. Bubu bay is about 2 miles broad, one mile deep, and affords anchorage in 5 fathoms with shelter from winds between West through north to East. Nearly in the centre of the entrance of the bay there is a reef about 3i cables iu extent ; and at one mile S.E. of Tanjong Bubu is the northern extremity of another reef which extends nearly three-quarters of a mile in a south-easterly direction, and has 12 feet least water. ANALABU or MALABU is a pepper port situated in a bay, 48 miles south-eastward of Eigas bay. It may be recognised by the grove of cocoa-nut trees which stand on Analabu point, on the west gide of the * The crew of the wrecked steamer Nisero landed at Tenom, and were detained as prisoners br the R^j ah of Achi. ■f Horsburgh. CHAP, m.] PANGAH. — ^ANALABU. 167 bay, and which makes as an island when first seen. The land is low on this part of the coast.* The village is unimportant. The Dutch had a fortified post here in 1883, but the resident and the troops have been withdrawn. The mail steamers running between Olehleh and Eatavia (twice a month), called here at that time. Trade. — in 1883 the value of the exports amounted to 29,000/., pepper alone amounting to 24,000/. ; imports, 11,000/. Six sailing vessels (schooners) entered the port in that year. Shoals. — From Analabu point a reef which has 5 feet water and is steep-to, extends S. by W. a quarter of a mile ; there are depths of 5 or G f athoins close to the outer edge of the reef, which does not break except in bad weather. In the vicinity of the point there are four other shoals. The one most in the track of vessels entering the port is named Loongtiarp Ujong Karang, and lies with Analabu point bearing N.N.E. ^ E. distant half a mile ; the shoalest part found was 11 feet. Another shoal Ues with the same point bearing East, distant half a mile ; it has very little water, but there are depths of 6f fathoms, mud, a quarter of a mile outside it. A third shoal, which breaks, lies N. by E. J E. distant 2 cables.from the last- mentioned shoal; and a fourth shoal lies with Analabu point bearing E. by S. 4 S. distant 1^ miles ; it has not more than 5 or 6 feet water on it.f AnctLOrage. — The anchorage off Analabu is in 5 fathoms, with the mouth of the river bearing N.W., distant half a mile. In approaching the anchorage, Analabu point should be rounded in about 10 fathoms, and when it bears N.N.E. haul into the bay. The COAST. — Directions. — The depths off the coast between Achi head and Rigas bay are in some places irregular over a rocky bottom, and generally from 18 to 30 fathoms at 3 to 9 miles off shore. In this space vessels should during the night, keep 6 or 8 mUes from the land, to give a proper berth to the rocks and islets scattered along the coast. From Bigas bay to Analabu the soundings are more regular, and the bottom soft, where the shore may be approached to 11 or 12 fathoms, and occasionally to 9 fathoms ; but not under this depth in passing Analabu point. From Analabu to cape Felix (Tanjong Bajah) the coast trends in a general south-east direction for 35 miles, and may be approached to depths of 11 or 12 fathoms, from 3 to 8 miles off shore. Between these places there appears to be anchorage off Senagum, Trong, Tadu, and south of Trepah.' ■ Near cape Felix, at about 4 or 5 miles from the shore, the water * See plan of Malabu or Anala1)ii, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760; scale, m — I inch, t cams, 1834. 168 WEST COAST OP SUMATRA. [ohap. iir. deepens suddenly to 26 or 28 fathoms, and from the cape the coast trends eastward to Susu. Shoals. — At about 2^ miles off shore, midway between Tadu and Trepali, a shoal is said to exist, but the exact position is doubtful. Also at about 4 miles S. by E. from Trepah, and 2 miles off shore is a shoal of 3 fathoms. CAPE FELIX (Tanjong Kajah) is a low level headland, bold to approach ; it forms the western extremity of the bay in which stands the town of Susu (Soesoe). The cape is difficult to distinguish, but there is a small flat house half a mile to the eastward of the cape, by which, if the vessel be within 2 miles of the shore, it may be known. A small coral shoal is said to lie close inshore just northward of the cape. Outlying shoals. — A shoal of 4 fathoms lies with cape Felix bear- ing E. by N, ^ 'N., distant 14^ miles. A reef nearly circular 2 miles in diameter and having 5 fathoms of water, lies with cape Felix bearing K.E., distant 13^ miles. A reef of similar extent to the last-mentioned reef, with a depth of 4 fathoms, and po bottom at 55 fathoms close to, lies with cape Felix, bearing N ^ W., distant 13 miles. At about 1^ miles N.W. of this reef is a smaller patch of less than 3 fathoms, with deep water between. At 15 miles S.E. from cape Felix is a patch with less than 3 fathoms, and at 1^ miles N.E. and S.E. from this patch are others of 3 and 5 fathoms. These patches appear to be the westernmost of many isolated patches ex- tending from cape Mungin. Much caution is necessary in approaching this part of the coast. Crimea patch, with a depth of 4^ fathoms, and 30 fathoms close to, lies with cape Felix, bearing N.W. by W. | W., about 12 miles, and Lama Muda N. I W. About midway between cape Felix and Kwala Batu is a shoal at 1 J miles from the shore, and nearer the latter the shoals extend 3^ miles off shore, for which the chart will be found the best guide. KWALA BATU, about 13 miles to the eastward of cape Felix, is during the N.W. monsoon, one of the safest and best roadsteads on this coast.* Coasting from cape Felix, at 4 or 5 miles off shore, in 28 or 30 fathoms, a vessel may steer about E. ^ N". in this depth, (which will lead between the shoals extending 3^ miles southward of Kwala Batu, and Crimea patch), until two clumps of trees showing like islands, about a mile apart, are seen ; these are Pulo Kio and Ujong Seranjah the extremes of * See plan of Kwala Batu and Susu, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760; scale, m = 1-25 inches. CHAP. 111.] CAPE FELIX. — MUKKIE. 169 Susu bay ; when the clump ou Ujong tseranjah bears N.E., steer towards it until the houses at Kwala Batu bear N. by W., then steer direct for thera, which will lead between Potomak and Pulo Kio reefs, and about a quarter of a mile eastward of Potomak ; the sea generally breaks on the shoals. The anchorage at Kwala Batu is in from 20 to 22 fathoms, with Pulo Kio beai'ing E.S.E., and the mouth of the river N. ^ W. Small craft frequent this place, to procure pepper and other articles of trade : but it is prudent to be always guarded agaidst the perfidy of the natives, who have several times been successful in assaulting and taking possession of vessels which came to trade with them. See foot note, page 152. Susu Bay contains several dangerous shoals, with from one to 3 fathoms water ; there is also much foul ground in it, with overfalls from 20 to 10 fathoms ; but the channel is wide and safe between the shoals on the west side of the bay, and those to the southward of Susu point. The point appears with two or three trees close to the houses, like a small island. A vessel bound into the bay should steer in (as for Kwala Batu), with the clump on Ujong Seranjah bearing N".E,, and keep a boat ahead to sound; when abreast of Pulo Kio reef, steer N.N.E. until the clump bears E. by N. ^ N., distant about 3 cables, where there is anchorage in from 10 to 15 fathoms, between Ujong Seranga and Deli rock. The latter lies with Pulo Kio, bearing N. \ W., and Ujong Seranga E. ^ N., and has a depth of 2^ fathoms. There is also anchorage in 18 or 10 fathoms, about 2 miles off shore, with the houses of Susu bearing N.E. by E. Mungin. — At about 8 miles south-eastward of Susu, on the south side of North Telok Pau point, a blufE having arroon trees, there is a place named Mungin, off which there is anchorage in 9 fathoms, inside a rocky shoal of 2 fathom.s, lying about 1 ^ miles south-west from the point. Off North Telok Pau point is another shoal which usually breaks, with a passage of 10 fathoms inside of it. Labuan Hadji, about half-way between Mungin and Mukkie, is also an anchoring place for vessels shipping pepper ; there is a sandbank and other dangers fronting it, also several isolated coral heads, extending 11 or 12 miles off shore. MUEEIE is a small place, where coasting vessels stop at times to trade.* Between cape Felix and Mukkie, a vessel should not shoal less than 27 fathoms water, as there are several dangerous shoals within this depth ; also many shoals beyond this depth, some of which are also dangerous. Shoals. — There are two shoals off the entrance to Mukkie, the northern one. Gar Bua with 3 fathoms, or less, lies with Ujong Alloa Lang, the * See plan of Mukkie, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; gcale, m = 1 inch. 170 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iii. southern bluff of Mukkie bay, bearing E. ^ S. distant one mile. The southern, Gar Nee, with 2 fathoms, lies 1^ miles southward of Gar Bua, with Ujohg Alloa Lang, K.E. distant 1^ miles. Directions. — The western point of Mukkie bay, bearing N.E. by E., leads northward of Gar Bua, and avoiding outer shoals, may be steered for on that bearing, until within a quarter of a mile of it, when course may be altered to about E.S.E., where anchorage will be found in from 10 to 17 fathoms the anchorage is said not to be good within the point. A course S.W. ^ S. from Mukkie will lead between the shoals, and when in 27 fathoms the vessel is outside of them. Native fishermen say there is a shoal of 11 feet, S.S.W. from Mukkie point, 6 or 7 miles distant, it is probably the 5 fathom patch marked on the chart near that position. About midway between Mukkie and South Telok Pau there is a small island, named Pulo Sdrvodung, close to the shore, between which and Telok Pau lies a 3-fathom shoal. It is about one mile off shore, and bears S. by W. 1 J miles from the island. COAST. — Soutll Telok Pau 7 miles south-east from Mukkie, is a place where pepper may sometimes be obtained. The best anchorage is with the point N. by E., in 17 fathoms, under which depth the ground is frequently foul. There is a remarkable white rock 2 miles south-east of South Telok Pau, named by the natives Batu Belajar. Between this and Tampat Tuan are the small pepper ports of Sama Dua, Bah Mudung, and Telok Kattapung. Along this coast the soundings are very deep, but it is said to have many shoal rocky heads from 3 to 8 miles off shore. TAMPAT TUAN BAY.— Tampat Tuan point, the southern extreme of the high land seen from Susn, from which it is distant 37 miles, is the west point of Tampat Tuan bay.* Hocks. — Batu Kuseah, a rock above water, lies one cable S.W. of Tampat Tuan point ; and Batu Tongkat a small round rock steep to, and shaped like a boat, lies with Tampat Tuan point bearing East, distant nearly one mile. A rocky patch of 3 fathoms lies N. by W. ^ W., 3 cables from Batu Tongkat. A coral shoal of 3 fathoms or less lies with Tampat Tuanlpoi At bearing E. by N. distant 1^ miles. In Tampat Tuan bay, at about a quarter of a mile eastward of the village, and the same distance N.E. of the point, is a shoal with a depth of 1| fathoms, named Gusong Puka. On the eastern side of the bay, at a quarter of a mile S.W. of Ujong Batu Mera, is a bank of 2^ fathoms, named Gusong G-olu, which sometimes breaks. * See plan of Tampat Tuan bay, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale, m = 1 -25 inches. cHAP.m.] TAMP AT TTJAN BAT. — OUTLYING SHOALS. 171 AnClLOrage. — There is anchorage in 15 to 22 fathoms, with Tampat Tuan point bearing West, and the village N.W. ^ N"., distant about one-third of a mUe. The north-eastern part of the bay, towards the village of Benkuan, has depths of 10 to 14 fathoms, and appears to be well sheltered from winds as far southward as West. OUTLYING SHOALS.— Tua or Labon point is 60 miles south- eastward of cape Felix ; and in sailing between tliem great care is requisite to avoid several shoals interspersed along the coast. As before mentioned, several isolated shoals lie as much as 14 miles off the coast between cape Felix and Tampat Tuan, Westward of Tampat Tuan with that point bearing E. by N. distant- 9 miles, is a bank of 3 fathoms. Midway between this bank and the point, and also at the same distance northward of it are similar banks of 4 fathoms. Also at 4 miles S.S.E. f E., and with Tampat Tuan point bearing If.E. I E. distant 9 miles, is a bank of 1^ fathoms, probably the bank on which the brig Sophia struck. Also with Tampat Tuan point bearing N. ^ E. distant nearly 11 miles, is a bank of 10 feet, probably the bank on which the Loid Castlereagji struck. Another shoal, also dangerous, and which breaks, lie about 6 miles S.S.W. of the last mentioned, with Tampat Tuan Great hill bearing N. by E. There is also a shoal of 3 fathoms about 17 farther to the S.S.W., with Tampat Tuan Great bill N. by E. \ E. and Pulo Monkie E.N.E. ; it has 34 fathoms close-to. At about 9 miles E. by S. are two isolated shoal patches, with a depth of 12 fathoms between them. Westward of Pulo Monkie, with the islet bearing E. by N., about 6 miles, is an isolated shoal of less than 3 fathoms, also with the islet bearing N. by E. \ E. distant 9 miles lies an isolated patch of 1^ fathoms. Between this and Seba^e point are several isolated shoals, and at 3J miles westward of the 1^ fathom patch is a bank of from 3 to 5 fathoms. ^ These shoals are all steep to, and vessels in their neighbourhood should keep a careful lookout from the masthead. Between Tampat Tuan and Pulo Monkie, a vessel should keep 2| or 3 miles off shore in from 10 to 25 fathoms. Pulo Monkie in about lat. 20° 55' X., is an islet having a few cocoanut trees, about 1;^ miles off Ujong Xamarang, with a channel between having a depth: of 6 fathoms. A sandy island or bank lies one mile S.B. from Pulo Monkie. Between Tampat Tuan and Pulo Monkie there is commonly a heavy surf dangerous to land in, except in the native boats. The coast has generally proved unhealthy, and frequently fatal to boats' crews who have been obliged to remain overnight. 172 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap, iir BAKUNGON BAY, about 4 miles eastward of Pule Monkie, where vessels may lie sheltered from north-west winds, has some rocks off its western extremity. The river and village of Bakungon may be known by two small islands, situated south of the mouth of the river, the northern- most named Pulo Dua, the other Pulo Kayu. There is also a mountain close to the sea, formed like a saddle, with the highest end to the southward, and Bakiingon lies close under its northern end, and 3 or 3| miles north-eastward of Sebadie village. A large vessel may anchor in 15 fathoms, soft bottom, with the entrance of the river (at the head of the bay) bearing N.N.E. distant half a mile. In this position she will be sheltered from N.W. winds : vessels sometimes touch at this place to trade. Directions,* — In approaching Bakungon bay from the southward much care is requisite, as there are several dangerous shoals. To avoid these, bring Bakungon bazaar to bear N. by W., and run in on this bearing till Pulo Monkie bears West; then steer more to the westward, and anchor in from 14 to 15 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile off shore, with the bazaar bearing North. If bound from the northward, the passage between Pulo Monkie and the main may be adopted, by keeping about half a mile from the latter and standing along shore at that distance till Bakungon village bears from North to N. by E., then anchor. Should the passage to the southward of Pulo Monkie be preferred, bring the opening between Pulo Dua and Pulo Kayu to bear East ; run for it till Bakungon bazaar bears N. by W. ; and observe the same directions as for approaching the bay from the southward. Pulo Dua Anchorage. — Inside Pulo Dua is the best harbour amongst the northern pepper ports, being well sheltered in 13 fathoms, with that island bearing West about half a mile. There is a safe channel of 10 or 12 fathoms water between Pulo Dua and Pulo Kayu. About half a mile W. by N. from Pulo Dua there is a shoal. Pulo Kayu. — There is a shoal at one mile S.S.E. from Pulo Kayu, and at one mile S.S.W'., is Kampong Arra, a small islet with reefs. There is a passage between Pulo Kayu and Arra isle, but nearly in mid-channel lies a shoal of 4 feet; another shoal, which always breaks, lies E. ^ S. from Arra isle, distant three-quarters of a mile. Sebadie Anchorage. — Off the village of Sebadie, which lies East 2 miles from Pulo Dua, there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms sheltered from N.W. winds, about one mile from the shore. If bound into this road, * The Bakungon referred to in these Directions appears to lie about 4 miles eastward of Monkie point ; this would agree with the position assigned to it by Endicott, as being 3 miles N.W. by. N. from Pulo Dua, and not as being situated about 3 miles northward of Sebadie. CHAP. III.] BAKTJNGON BAY. — BANJAK ISLANDS. 173 and being 3 miles off shore in 25 fatlioms, bring the Tillage to bear N. by E., steer in with this bearing, and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, at one or 1^ miles distant from the village. Shoals. — Within a distance of 13 miles in a S.W. ^ W. direction from Pnlo Dua there are four shoals, with apparently deep water close to, and, described on page 171. TRUMON from which a large quantity of pepper is exported, lies 9 miles south-eastward of Pulo Dua.* Shoals. — At 24 miles N. by W. J W. from Pulo Trumon, is a shoal of 9 feet, on which the sea sometimes breaks, having 8 fathoms close to. Also W. f 'N. about 1^ miles from the same islet is another shoal. Other shoals exist southward of the last-mentioned, for which a careful look out should be kept for from the mast-head. Anchorage. — in approaching Trumon bay, Pulo Trumon, which lies nearly 3 miles S.W. of the village, should be brought to bear E.S.E., then steer towards it, and pass at a moderate distance round its northern end, from which a spit projects about half a cable. The anchorage is usually in 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, off the mouth of the river, but good ground tackling is requisite, as the anchorage is exposed to north-westerly winds. There is also anchorage close under Trumon island, in 6 fathoms. Inner Passage. — There is a channel eastward of Trumon island, between the reefs extending 5 miles southward of the island and the shore, but it is seldom used. This inside passage is said to be safe by rounding the point 8 miles southward of Trumon in 5 fathoms, and from thence the track close along shore, inside of all the shoals, to Singkel is safe, and preferred by some to the ofE shore route from Jawi Jawi island. Bulo Sama, in lat. 2° 34' N., is a pepper port ; there is anchorage in 5J or 6 fathoms at about one mile off" shore. Reefs. — Ayer Itam reef lies 5 miles southward of Pulo Trumon, at about one mile off shore, with a remarkable tree in line witli a hill in the interior. Heria reef lies N.W., about 3 miles from Bulo Sama, and a smaller reef lies nearly 3 miles beyond it, in the same direction. Amboina reef. — Southward of Bulo Sama, is Ambonia reef of 24 fathoms, which lies with Pulo Jawi Jawi bearing S.S.W. ^ W., and Tanjong Fatikala S.E. | S. About midway between this reef and Bulo Sama, is a reef of 5 fathoms, and probably less. BANJAK ISLANDS, are a cluster of islands extending about 40 miles westward of Singkel. The three largest are Pulo Bangkaru, • See plan of Trrnnon, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760; scale, »i = 0-3 inch. 174 WEST COAST OP STJMATEA. [chap. iii. Tunangku, - and Batu. There are many smair islets with deep 'water channels interspersed with rocks, between them. > , Pule Baugkaru, the outer and S.W. islet; has a shoal lying nearly one mile off its west side. Chameleon bay, on its south-east side affords shelter from N;W. winds. Between Pulo Bangkaru, and Pulo Topak 24 miles to the westward, the channel is ' considered to be free from danger; but it- is fecorniflended to keep to the Bangkaru side. The channel between Pulo Bangkaru and Tunangku is nearly 5 miles wide with deep Water, there being no danger apparently beyond half a mile from either islets. Plllo Tunaugku, the largest islet, is nearly 20 miles in length, with a conspicuous sugar loaf peak named Gunong Trusa on its riorthern end. Close westward of this peak is a bay which affoMs shelter from southerly winds in from 6 to 13 fathoms, the entrance to which is between Pulo Mandong Katti, and Gunong Batio Lanteh, the West point of the bay. Numerous islets extend about 6 miles north-eastward of the north point of Pulo Tunangku, between which and Pulo Ujong Batu is a deep navigable channel about 3 miles in width. Pulo TJjong Batu lies nearly|9 miles north-eastward of Tunangku. It is about 5 miles in length, with islets extending about the same distance southward, between which and Great Pulo Balambak there is the deep channel before referred to. Eastward of' the reefs extending about 2 miles nbrth-eastward of Batu, is' a channel about 4 miles wide, which is one of the best passages between the Banjaks, though there are some detached shoals in it.' Jawi Jawi or Passage Island, the north-eastward of theBanjak islands, lies 10 miles eastward of Pulo Ujong Batu, and 7 miles westward of Tanjong Palikala on the main. It is low -and Sandy with a few shrubs, but there is one large banian tree which may be seen from ia distance of about 12 miles. Passage island is situated on the east end of a reef which is 5 miles long in an east and west direction, and 3 miles broad.* A Shoal having a depth of 4^ fathoms, reported by H.N.M.S. Surabaya, lies with Ja'wi Jawi bearing S. by W. \ W. distant about If miles. DIRECTIONS. — Vessels from the northward bound to any of the ports north of the equator should proceed by one of the passages between Banyak islands and the main. The channel between Passage island and the coast of Sumatra is rendered intricate by dangerous rocky shoals * See Admiralty plan of Banjakristands and "adjacent coast, No. fi.S.T; scale, jb = 0"28 of an inch. oHAP.HiJ BANJAK ISLANDS AND CHANNELS. 175 situated 'fiearly midway betwixt the island and the main. Although therfe is a' safe passage inside these shoals by keeping close to the Sumatra shorfe, yet the channel between Passage island and the shoals has been usually adopted. FaSSag6 island channel. ^- in steering for this channel keep about 9 or 10 mil^s ofE the coast unlU Passage island is seen, then steer tofw-ardg it, 'observing never to bring it more easterly than S.E., to avoid getting near the shoals' and irregular sonudin^, extending about 5 miles to the westward of it. • - > op Having apjiroached' Passage island within '8 miles, bring it to bear S.S.E., which will lead westward of the 4^ fathom patch, and when three- quarters or half a mile ofE the island, alter course to pass about that distance eastward of it, to avoid the shoals midway between it and Taaaj&og Paljkala ; the ■ encircling reef of Passage island is dry all round tothe distance ,of a cable at low water, and projects about a quarter of a mile, or rather more in some places, but is not visible at high water. By preserving the distance mentioned the soundings will be tolerably regular, and the depths never less than 10 or 12 fathoms, mostly rooky bottom. A good look-out from the masthead is requisite when passing through this channel, ais the coral shoals may be discerned in clear weather, but the flat surrounding Passage island cannot be always distinguished. When through' fee channel, which is about 2 miles in length,' the island must be kept between the bearings of N.N.W. and N.W. by N., in steering to the southward, where. a Vessel may anchor if the wind or tide be unfavourable ; but' northward of the island do not anchor under 20 fathoms, for the ground there is rocky under that depth. Inshore channel. — Within 2 miles of the land in the viciuity of Tanjong Palikala there are several rocky shoals, having only 2 to 3 fathoms in some parts, with a safe channel of 8 and 9 fathoms between them and the Sumatra shore. A vessel may venture within half a mile of the shore in. some places.; The shoals on the western side of this channel occa- sionally break. Ou1;er channels- — There is a channel between Passage island and Fulo Ujong Batu. Vessels should keep near Pulo Ujong Batu as several dangerous shoals extends two-thirds of the distance across the channel fromPassage islands. In approaching from the northward, do not' bring little Pulo Balambak to bear southward of S. ^E.; even then, if the water should shoal suddenly, tack immediately, as the shoals are steep to, The soundings in this channel are irregidar, from 17 or 18 to 33 fathoms, and it is about 2 miles wide in the narrowest part abreast the eastern side of Pulo Ujong Batu. In proceeding through this channel, a gqod look- out should be kept from the masthead. 176 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iir. The channel westward of Ujong Batu, between it and the small round islet, named Pulo Kassik, appears to be easy of navigation, though the chart of the Netherlands Government Survey of 1876 does not show soundings in its northern end. From the northward, Pulo Kassik may be approached bearing S. by E., and when within 2 miles of it, course should be altered to pass one mile south of Pulo Rongit, and when the latter bears N. J E., steer E. ^ N., keeping Trusa peak, the summit of Pulo Tnnangku, just northward of the two islets on the north-west part of the flat extending from Pulo Balambak; when little Pulo Balambak bears S. by W., course may be altered to S.S.E. See view of islands on plan. SINGKEL. — The town of Singkel, situated about 15 miles south- eastward of Passage island, was formerly a place of considerable trade, the principal exports being benzoin, camphor, wax, and gold. It stands on an island within the mouth of the river, nearly encircled by a low spit, extending from the north bank of the river,: round its west and south CorI. — The Dutch G-overnment have a small coal depot here. Shoals. — Egmond shoal of 5 fathoms, lies W. by S. f S. distant 4 miles from the conspicuous tree on the low land north-westward of Singkel. Daphne rock lies S. by E. f E. distant 4 miles from the same tree, and 2 miles off shore. Singkel spit, a long .sand bank stretching about 4 miles south-westward from Singkel, is said to be extending and •dangerous to approach, and should therefore be carefully avoided. Outer Anchorage. — A vessel bound to Singkel from the north- ward, should, after clearing Passage island channels, keep Passage island bearing about N.W. by N., which leads about 3 miles westward of Singkel «pit, and having brought a large tree on the low neck of land north-west- ward of the town, to bear N.E., course may be shaped to pass between Daphne rock and the spit, and anchor in from 12 to 13 fathoms, with the mouth of the river N.E., distant one mile. Singkel Road is the bight formed between the south point of the river and the mainland. It is about 1^ miles broad, with depths apparently of 5 to 8 fathoms, and only open to winds between south and south-east. Reefs which break project a short distance from the entrance points of the river. When a vessel has anchored the traders will come off, but no armed persons should be permitted on board, and caution is necessary in dealing with them. Se Muara Gusong Telega bay, situated about 9 miles east- ward of Singkel river, is sometimes chosen by vessels trading to Singkel fln account of its shelter. In approaching from the westward, Ujong Bawang, the west point of the bay, should be passed at about S miles distant, in 8 or 9 fathoms, hard bottom, to avoid the flat which extends CHAi'. m.] SINGKEL. — BA.I10S. 177 nearly 2 miles off it. Eastward of the poiat the bottom becomes soft, when course should be altered to N.N.E. to pass westward of Pulo Kassi, a low sandy island, and anchor between it and the western shore. If the vessel intends remaining a considerable time she should anchor in 6 fathoms, mud, on the west side of the small island of Se Maura, which is covered' with trees, where she will be sheltered by the land from westerly winds, and by the reefs at the entrance of the bay from S.E. winds. Pulo LSikotta, situated 30 miles south-eastward from Singkel river, is a small low island, covered with trees. A reef with a depth of 4 fathoms, lies with the centre of Pulo Lakotta, bearing E.N.E. distant one mile; also a reef of 4| fathoms lies with the same islet about N.E. distant 6 miles. Pulo Burong or Bird island, a low islet or sandbank, with 36 fathoms water close to, lies 5 miles N. by W. of it. Bird island is visible about 9 miles, and surrounded by a reef which is three-quarters of a mile long in an east and west direction. Shoals. — A shoal with a depth of one fathom lies with Pulo Lakotta bearing S.S.E. i E., distant 2 miles. A shoal of 11 feet, lies with Bird island S.W. 4 miles, and Lakotta S.S.W., with from 30 to 25 fathoms around it. A shoal patch lies nearly midway between Pulo Burong and Singkel with the former bearing S.E. J E., distant 12 miles. Within a distance of 10 miles eastward of Pulo Lakotta there are numerous outlying shoals, for which the chart must be the guide. The best track for vessels is midway between Pulo Lakotta and the main land, and where soundings of 25 fathoms will be obtained. The ground to the west and south-west of Pulo Lakotta is comparatively unknown. The coast between Se Muara Gusong and Baros is fringed by shoals, which in some parts extend 10 miles off shore. BAROS, an open port, in lat. 2° 1' N., is a place of some trade. The principal exports are camphor and benzoin ; fresh water may be procured, but it is dangerous for a boat to enter the river without a native guide. Wood and water may also be got at Pulo Lassi, near the west point of Tapus bay, off which there is anchorage with the island bearing N.W. by W., distant about one mile.* A shoal extends about one mile in a S.S.W. direction from the east point of the river, on which the town of Baros stands. Directions. — A vessel bound from Singkel to Baros should steer for Pulo Burong, avoiding the shoal lying midway, and about 2 miles west- ward of this line ; the islet may be approached on the north side within one or 1^ miles. The water deepens near it, but the soundings are not regular ; ♦ See plan of Baros, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,7 60 j scale, m = • 8 inch. U 20665. jVI 178 WEST COAST OE SUMATRA. [chap. m. the best track to keep is from 26 to 30 fathoms water. As there are numerous shoals in this vicinity, great caution must be exercised, and navigation at night should not be attempted. Having passed eastward of Pulo Burong, steer E. by S. or East for the mainland, and leave Pulo Karang, a small island covered with trees, a mile distant on the port hand, or less if requisite, and anchor in Baros road iu 10 fathoms mud, with the flagstaff bearing N.N.E., and Pulo Karang, West about 2 miles. Pulo Sorkam is a small island lying near the coast, 15 miles S.E. by E. from Baros; a vessel may pass on either side and anchor to the eastward of it. TAPANULI (SibOga) BAY lies 30 miles south-eastward of Baros. Between Tanjong Batu Burn and Tanjong Mama, the bay is 9 miles across. Tanjong Batu Burn, the northern point of the bay, is of considerable height. Pulo Nassie Satunkus, or Sugar Loaf, a conical- shaped islet, lying off Tanjong Mama, is a conspicuous object when approaching or leaving Tapanuli bay by the southern channel. The northern channel between Pulo Mansalar and the main, leading to Tapanuli bay, is 7 miles wide, with depths of from 12 to 18 fathoms. The southern channel, between Pulo Mansular group and Pulo Nassie Satunkus, is free from danger, with regular depths of about 24 fathoms. The west side of Pulo Nassie Satunkus is clear of danger, but rocks extend about one cable eastward of it. Shoals. — ^Bordering the north channel, at about 6 miles southward of Pulo Sorkam, and 1^ miles ofi shore, is a rock named Karang Gadang, with a depth of 9 feet. Argo shoal lies one mile off Tanjong Pandang, and has from 9 to 10 fathoms close to. A rock lies about 3 cables off Tanjong Batu Baru, the south-west point of the entrance to Tapanuli harbour. Banda shoal of 5 fathoms, steep-to, lies midway between Pulo Mansalar and the main, and nearly 5 miles W. by S. ^ S. from Tanjong Pandang. Tapanuli harbour* is an extensive inlet on the north side of Tapanuli bay ; it is subdivided into many coves or harbours by islands, where a large number of vessels may lie sheltered from all winds. It is an open port, and the seat of the Dutch residency, but it has little commerce, the natives around are barbarous, and the country a mere forest. Towns. — The town of Tapanuli is at the northern part of the bay, 3^ miles from the entrance ; thence the bay is continued to the westward by a narrow channel that opens into a large lagoon, with depths of 2 to 3 fathoms. Siboga, the Dutch I'esidency, lies on the eastern shore, 3 miles southward of Tapanuli. * See Admiralty plan of Tapanuli bay, and Pulo Mansalar, No. 855 ; scale. m = 0-28 of an incli. CHAp.m.] TAPANTJLI BAY. — PTJLO MANSALAR. 179 Coal. — The Dutch Grovernment have a small supply of coal here. Water. — There is a good watering place in the bay to the north-east of Pulo Panjang. Islets. — ^Pulo Ponchang, the largest islet, lies between the entrance points of the harbour, near the eastern shore. It has some steep hills covered with large timber, near the foot of these there are several springs of fresh water. The island is encircled by a reef, with some solated rocks about 2 cables ofE its eastern side. Pulo Ponchang Kechil lies nearly one mile north-westward of Pulo Ponchang, with depths of 8 to 10 fathoms between. The island is low, and has a fort with a flagstaff, on a rock 50 feet high. Pulo Seroudouy lies one mile north-eastward of Ponchang, with 6 to 8 fathoms between. Pulo Panjang lies northward of Palo Ponchang Kechil, with depths of 6 to 8 fathoms in the channel between. The north end of Pulo Panjang is nearly connected to the shore by reefs. AnclLOrageS. — Eastward of Pulo Panjang, and northward of Siboga town, the anchorage ground is about one square mile, with depths of from 4 to 7 fathoms. There is also good shelter westward and south-westward of Pulo Panjang, in depths of 5 and 6 fathoms. Northward of Pulo Panjang reefs project from both shores and also from the islets in the northern arm of the bay ; there are, however, safe passages and good shelter among them, in depths of from 3 to 5 fathoms. There is also good anchorage north-eastward of Ponchang islet, in 7 and 8 fathoms. An excellent cove lies eastward of Pulo Seroudouy, having depths of 4 and 5 fathoms. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Tapanuli at 6 hours ; springs rise about 6 feel. Directions. — Tapanuli bay and harbour may be safely approached by passing on either side of Pulo Mansular group, thence passing westward of Pulo Ponchang, and either side of Pulo Ponchang Kechil according to circumstances, when anchorage may be taken in 7 or 8 fathoms, soft bottom, between that islet and Siboga, with the fort flagstafl' bearing S.W. by W. and the east point of Pulo Ponchang S.E. by S. ; or in any of the positions previously mentioned. PULO MANSALAR is 11 miles long in an east and west direction, and lies in the entrance to Tapanuli bay. The island is high, with several inlets on the north side, the largest, Ronto bay, is 3 miles across, with depths of 15 to 19 fathoms; near its south-east end there is a group of islets which form a bay having a -depth of 16 to 22 fathoms, soft white mud. This bay, known as Mansalar-harbour, also affords excellent fresh water, and the adjacent islands abQund with proa M 2 180 WEST COAST OP SUMATUA, [chap. in. spars, fit for masts or yards of any size that may be required. Vessels should not attempt to pass between Pulo Tembareh and Pulo Mansalar. At the north-west end of Mansalar there is a waterfall issuing from a high hill. Pulo Dua, a small islet, lies about 18 miles south-westward of Pulo Mansalar. A bank of 4| fathoms lies E. | N. distant 4^ miles from T'ulo Dua, with a patch of less than 3 fathoms at 1^ miles south-eastward of it ; and a dangerous rock, which sometimes breaks, lies E. by N. distant 6^ miles from the same islet. A patch of IJ fathoms lies N.W. ^ W. distant 4 miles from Pulo Dua. Karaug Kima (Claudine reef) named after the Clnudine, which struck on it, lies about 6 miles southward of William island. Its eastern edge, awash, with 38 fathoms at a cable distant, lies with Pulo !N"assie Satunkus (Sugar Loaf) bearing N.E. | E. about 28 miles, and Pulo Dua N.W. From this position the reef was seen to extend a considerable distance to the south-westward.* W^illiam island, low, barren, and small, lies S.E. f E. distant 7 miles from Pulo Dua, nearly midway between the latter and Claudine reef. William rock, white and above water, on which the sea breaks, lies about 8| miles E.N.E. of William island; at 2 miles northward of William rock is a dangerous patch of less than 3 fathoms, which sometimes breaks. PULO ILIH, an island near the main, about a mile in length, mode- rately high and flat, lies about 18 miles south-eastward of Tapanuli bay. It affords wood and good water. There is temporary anchorage between the island and the main. Success reef having less than 3 fathoms water, and 35 fathoms close- to lies S.W. \ W. distant 21 miles from Pulo Ilir, and about the same distance south-eastward of Karang Kima. This reef which is about 2 miles in extent, east and west, does not break, and is therefore dangerous to approach. Earang Lawe, breaks heavily, and lies about 15 miles south-east- ward of Success reef. Karang Panjang, a shallow circular reef about 2 miles in diameter, lies about 12 miles W. | S. from Success reef, and 22 miles E. by-N. from Sama Sama on Pulo Nias. It always breaks. Amelia rock with a less depth than 3 fathoms, occasionally breaks; It lie.s about W. by S. | S. distant 6 miles from Karang Panjang. A rock which breaks, lies 3 miles S.E. by E. from Amelia rock. * See Admiralty chart :— Sumatra, West Coast, No. 2760. CHAP, in.] PULO DUA- — TABUJON& ROAD. 181 Directions. — As other rocks may exist in the vicinity, vessels passing eastward of Pulo Dua and William island, should keep close over to Pulo Mansalar, which is steep-to, and the mainland southward of it. TABU JONG ROAD is situated in lat. 0° 50' N., nearly 30 miles southward of Pulo Ilir. It is partially sheltered by the Sikaladi or Keladee islands, three in number, lying in a north-west direction from the south- west point of the roadstead. The north-west island is nearly 3 miles off- shore, and a reef named Batu Sirannu lies 1^ miles beyond it iu the same direction. Vessels in passing westward of Pulo Sikaladi should give it a berth of 3 miles. There is anchorage in from 3 to 5 fathoms in the road, and shelter from N.W. winds southward of Pulo Tabujong, the southern island. A rock, with 3 fathoms close-to,' and lying about half a mile north-west of the village, must be avoided if approaching within that distance. Good water and cocoa-nuts may be obtained from the islands. Amboina reef, about one cable in extent with a depth of 1^ fathoms, lies with Tabujong point bearing N. ^ E. and Pulo iJinjaman north point E. by S. \ S. There is a depth of 6 fathoms close-to, but. as the water is not discoloured, caution is necessary in approaching Tabujong road from the southward.* Tbe Coast between Sikaladi islands and Kara-kara point, 13 miles to the southward, is generally avoided, as several shoals lie at a considerable distance from it, with Pulo Rinjaman, Telok, and Kapetjong, three small islands, lying in the bight inside of them. Banks. — Sirene bank, one of the outermost and most dangerous of these shoals, be.irs S. | E., distant 11 miles from Sikaladi island; it has 7 feet water, and 20 fathoms close-to, and does not always break in fine weather. There is a passage inside the bank, with anchorage, by keeping in 14 and 15 fathoms, but it is preferable to pass outside. To avoid Sirene bank, a vessel after passing Sikaladi islands at 4 or 5 miles distant, should keep the outer island to the eastward of North, and not to shoal less than 23 or 24 fathoms until Kara-kara point bears E.S.E., which will lead 2 or 3 miles outside the shoal. There is also a reef in about lat. 0° 30' N., long. 98° 48' E., with Kara- kara bearing E.N.E., distant about 21 miles. Several banks lie between this reef and the coast. Two coral reefs, about one mile apart, and which sometimes break, lie with the east end of Pulo Pinie bearing South, and Gunong Kara-kara N.E. f N. The channel eastward of these reefs appears to be clear. NATAL ROAD, situated about 20 miles southward of Tabujong, is open and exposed, and has many dangerous shoals, the outermost of * ^^e plan of Tabujong road on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale, vi = 0-4 inch. 182 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iii. which is 8| miles off shore. The shore is skirted by a shallow bank, on which a depth of 3 fathoms is found at 1^ miles off shore.* Gunong Karakara, a hill 1,053 feet high, is situated near the northern extreme of Natal road, and with Natal hill is a useful mark for clearing the shoals when entering the roadstead. Gtmong Natal, 374 feet high, situated on the north side of the river, appears like a wedge when bearing S.E. by E., and may be known by its barren aspect, and having low land on each side. Natal is in about lat. 0° 33' N., and long. 99° 6' E. It stands on the open coast, and was founded by the English in 1762, but with the rest of this portion of Sumatra was relinquished to the Dutch. It is an open port ; camphor, benzoin, and gold-dust are the principal articles of export ; the imports are, opium, iron in flat bars, salt, piece goods of various kinds, stick-lac, and gunpowder. Karang Bayam is a small shoal with 2 fathoms least water, and 10 fathoms close- to i it lies about 7 miles due West of the centre of the bay, with Gunong Kara-kara bearing N.E. \ E., distant 6 miles. It seldom breaks. Karang Eapal, with from one to 2 fathoms, coral, lies 2^ miles south-eastward of Karang Bayam, with Gunong Kara-kara bearing N.N.E., distant 6^ miles. It seldom breaks. Karang Laut, having a least depth of 6 feet, lies S.W. by W, J W., 4 miles from Karang Kapal. It seldom breaks. Karang Ponjong, a rocky patch of 8 fathoms lies N. by "W. distant 2 miles from Karang Laut. Kara-kara shoal, having a depth of 3 feet coral, lies half a mile ofi' the shallow bank fringing the shore, and about one mile S.W. by S. from Puio Kara-kara, the small island at the north-west corner of the bay. Two other patches lie between the shoal and the island. Karang Pemuda, with a depth of 3| fathoms, lies with Pulo Kara- kara bearing E. ^ S. distant 2 miles. Shaftesbury shoal, is an extensive patch of foul ground lying to the westward of Ujong Eakit, the south point of Natal bay. The shoal has patches of 2 to 4 fathoms, and is 1| miles long, by nearly a mile broad. Karang Brambang, having a depth of 2 fathoms, is the south-west extreme of Shaftesbury shoal, and lies with Tanjong Eakit bearing East distant about 2 miles. Karang Tete, a shoal having a depth of 1 6 feet, lies three-quarters of a mile N.W. by W. ^ W. of Karang Brambang. Anchorage. — Natal roadstead is one of the worst on the coast, being much exposed to north-west and westerly winds. The usual anchorage is in from 5 to 6 fathoms, with the flagstaff bearing about Easi and distant 2^ miles. "■ tiee plan of Natal road on Admiralty chart, No. 3,760 ; scale, m •= 0'6 inch. CEUjp. III.] NATA.L. — TEIiOK BRAMBANG. 183 Diroctions. — ^Vessels from the northward, bound to Natal road nlay, after Kara-kara point bears E. by S. '^ S. and being in a depth' of 19 or 20 fathoms, steer to pass south-West of the point at 3 miles distant, by bringing Natal flagstaff to bear about E. by S. j this mark wUl lead between Karang Pemuda, and Karang Bayam, and nearly in mid-channel between Shaftesbury and Kara-kara shoals. When near the roadstead, edge a little to the southward, and anchor with the flagstaff bearing East. Vessels from the southward may pass either inside or outside Karang Bayam ; if they keep in 12 or 13 fathoms, soft ground, they will pass inside, or by keeping in 19 fathoms they will pass outside ; when Natal hill or the flagstaff bears from E. by S. to E. by S. ^ S., and being in 14 fathoms, steer for the road as before directed. TELOK BRAMBANG is the bay 8 miles in length situated between Ujong Brambang and Pulo Temang. Batahan village lies in the south-east corner of the bay, on the north point of a small river. Shoals. — The 3 fathom edge of the shoal water fringing Natal bay, extends upwards of half a mile seaward of Ujong Bakit and Ujong Brambang, and then south and east into Brambang bay. Earaug Sigale, a small shoal of 15 feet, lies S. by W. \ W., one mile from Ujong Brambang, the north point of Brambang bay. At one mile eastward of Karang Sigale is Durien shoal, which always breaks. Earaug Rajah luda, a small shoal of 3 fathoms, lies S. f E. 2f miles from Ujong Brambang. Karang Tompe, a patch of 6 fathoms, with from 7 to 9 around it, lies S. ^ E. distant 2^ miles from Bajah Inda. As less water may exist, it should be avoided. Anchorage, — Pulo Temang is situated at the south-east extreme of Brambang bay, three-quarters of a mile from the coast. The island is surrounded by a reef, which in places extends 2 or 2| cables from the shore, with 6 fathoms close to. A patch of 6 fathoms lies half a mile westward of the island. There is good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms, between the island and the main. A well containing good water is situated on the low land, abreast the anchorage ; near a small white sandy beach firewood may be obtained. Directions. — Small vessels bound from Natal road to the anchorage at Pulo Temang sometimes pass inside the shoals, keeping near Ujoug Eakit, taking care not to deepen above 6 fathoms till past the Shaftesbury shoal which has 7 fathoms close to, A large vessel should steer to the westward through the proper channel into 14 fathoms, northward of 184 "WEST COAST OF STJMATBA. [cshap. iii. Karaa Bayam, and preserve this depth until Pulo Temang is brought to bear E.S.E. or E. by S. ; she may then steer for the north part of that island, and after rounding it at a moderate distance, anchor in 6| or 7 fathoms, with the north point of Pulo Temang bearing W.N.W., distant a quarter of a mile. There is a safe passage between the island and the main. Small vessels coming fron the southward, intending to enter Natal road by the inner passage, may pass in mid-channel between Pulo Temang and the main, in 6 to 1 1 fathoms. When through, the course is about N. by W. observing not to shoal less than 9 fathoms in steering across Brambang bay so as to pass westward of Eajah Inda and Sigale shoals. The Coast. — From Pulo Temang the coast trends southward for 6 miles to Pulo Robia, with a bight between, thence south-eastward for 3 miles to Biang hill 170 feet high. Gunong Bagomba, 1,227 feet high, lies 4 miles eastward of Biang, thence the coast trends due east to Ayer Bangles bay. Isolated shoals extend for a distance of 5 miles off many parts of this coast. AYER BANGIES or BONGAY BAY, is about 9 miles across in an east and west direction, between Ujong Balayar and Ujong Sawang Buding. It contains seven islands and several isolated shoals.* The village of Ayer Bangles is situated in the eastern shore of the bay, off which the depth is about 3^ fathoms at one mile distant. Southward of the village the water deepens. Shoals. — In entering Ayer Bangies bay the following isolated patches must be guarded against, viz. : — A rock lying about 6 cables W. by N". from the north end of Pulo Begada. A similar rock lying 3 cables south- eastward of Pulo Panka. Also two detached rocks which break, lying about 8 cables north of Pulo Tillo, and Karang Sikabou, two rocks, lying 2| miles E. by S. \ S. from the same island. South-eastward of Karang Sikabau, isolated shoals extend about 7 miles, the most distant being situated 13 miles W. A S. from Pasaman, a village near the equator, in the bay of that name. The Anchorage in Ayer Bangles is with the river bearing E. by N". distant 2 miles, in 4^ or 5 fathoms, good holding ground, and eastward of Pulo Panjang, which has a reef with breakers, extending about a mile to the northward of it. DIRECTIONS.— If intending to take the in-shore route from Pulo Temang to Ayer Bangles, steer southward along the coast in 9 or 10 fathoms, which will be about 1^ or 2 miles off shore. By keeping in ' See plan of Ayer Bangies road on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale, m = 0-3 inch. cuAP. in.] ATBR BANGIES BAY. 185 these depths, the oflflying shoals will be avoided, and the shore, which in this space contains some bays, is safe to approach to 5^ or 6 fathoms. Enter Ayer Bangies northward of Pulo Begaga and Panjang, and anchor abreast of the latter in 5 to 7 fathoms, or continue on to the village passing between Pulo Panjang and Kassi avoiding the reefs extending from those islets. This passage seems undesirable for large vessels, but vessels of every description, by whatever channel they enter Ayer Bangies bay, must keep a good look-out for the numerous shoals which exist. Vessels from the northward proceeding to Ayer Bangies bay outside the shoals, or to the southward, should from abreast Pulo Temang, distant 7 or 8 miles, steer about S.S.E., and keep in from 26 to 30 fathoms water, and nearer to Pulo Pinie than to the main, to avoid an extensive bank of 4 fathoms, probably less, and steep-to, lying near mid-channel, about 13 miles S.S.W. from Pulo Temang. A dangerous shoal, with rocks above water, named Ular, lies about 4 miles N.N.E. ^ E. of Pulo Sembulaling, the centre of the three islets lying oif the south- east end of Pulo Pinie.* Having avoided these shoals, course may be shaped, if bound to Ayer Bangies, to pass north or south of Macassar shoals, lying about S.W. by W. ^ W., distant 6 miles from Pulo Panka. The sea breaks on some of the shoals off Ayer Bangies bay, when there is much swell, and between most of them there are safe channels,' but the shoals are not always discernible when the sea is smooth. Pulo Panka bearing East leads north of Macassar shoals, and between them and a dangerous reef lying 5 miles to the north-west ; Pulo Panka bearing N.E. by N. leads southward of Macassar shoals. Thence pass on either side of Pulo Panka to the anchorage, avoiding the shoals in the road previously mentioned. The best channel is northward of Pulo Panka, where the depths are 10 to 11 fathoms, soft bottom. A vessel having entered the bay by the most convenient passage may steer for Ayer Bangies flagstaff, situated on a bluff point or hill at the south-east part of the bay, close to the north end of which is the river and landing-place, anchoring abreast the river. Proceeding to the southward from Ayer Bangies road inside the shoals, where the lead is a good guide, and the anchorage safe, a vessel should keep in from 5 to 8 fathoms^ within 2 miles of the shore, until abreast of Gunong Sikabau, and pass it about one mile distant; then, in daylight, borrow towards the shoals to 12 fathoms, but when turning to windward not under 9 fathoms towards the main, after the point bears N.N.E. When 10 miles south-eastward of Pulo Telok stand out to 15 or 16 fathoms, and keep in these depths, or steer a course for Ujong Masang, * Directions for proceeding to the southward, continued at page 192. 186 WEST COAST or STJMATRA. [chap, iii. without hauling into Pasaman bay under 12 fathoms, or approaching too near the shoals ia the offing, observing not to come under 17 fathoms in passing Ujoug Masang. Vessels from Ayer Bangles proceeding westward and southward of Sikabau shoals for Tiko road, when well clear of the shoals, should steer south- eastward to make the Masang hills, steering for them until within 3 or 4 miles of the shore, thence passing Iljong Masang at that distance in 17 or 18 fathoms, keeping in the same depth steering for and passing westward of the outer Tiko island, at the distance of one mile. As before observed much caution is necessary and a good look out kept for reefs, some of which will be mentioned below. CO AST— Gunong Ophir, in about lat. 0° 5' N., long. 99° 58' B., 9,472 feet high, situated 17 mUes eastward of Pasman, appears like a cone, separated from the chain of other mountains, and may be seen 110 miles ia clear weather, it being the highest mountain on Sumatra visible from the sea. A volcanic mountain (Singalang), 18 miles to the southward, is 9,629 feet above the sea. Ujong Masang, situated about 25 miles S.S.W. of Gunong Ophir, has a reef stretching out about one mile, which should not be approached under 17 fathoms. Near the point are the three Masang hills, the middle or largest having a ilat summit, and the others resembling haycocks. Between Ujong Masang and the bluff south point of Ayer Bangies bay, the coast is low, and forms Pasaman bay. IteefS. — Southward ol the shoals lying in the south-eastern approach to Ayer Bangies, and westward of Pasaman and Ujong Masang, are many out-lying reefs, some of which occasionally break. Van Speijk shoal, probably the one on which H.M.S. Brake struck, lies with Pulo Telok, bearing N. ^ E. distant 10 miles; Moller reefs, IJ miles apart, one of which breaks, lie south-eastward about 4 miles from Van Speijk shoal. Other patches lie between these and Pasaman. Drakes and Pylad.es reefs lie from 1 5 to 22 miles southward of Moller reefs, and from 20 to 30 miles westward of Ujong Masang. The south-western patch (Drake) is in lat. about 0° 26' S., long. 99° 17' E. A reef is also shown as lying N.W. distant 13 miles from this position. South-westward of these reefs, and S. by W. ^ W. distant 16 miles from Ujong Masang, is Montrado reef, which breaks. Discoloured water was seen S.S.E. about 6 miles from this reef. Numerous reefs exist between these and Tiko 16 miles to the eastward, and south-eastward for about 60 miles, from 10 to 20 miles off shore ; also others probably exist west- ward of Montrada reef. Much caution is requisite when navigating in this locality, which is considered the most dangerous part of the coast, and is but imperfectly known. CHAP, m.] GUNONG OPHIR. — TIKO ISLANDS. 187 TIKO ISLANDS, distant 9 miles south-eastward of Ujong Masang, are three in number, extending in a south-west direction from Tiko. They are small and woody, about three-quarters of a mile apart, and the innermost is a quarter of a mile from Tiko village on the main.* Between Pulo Tapies and Pulo Tengah, the inner and middle islands, there is a channel on either side of Kassi, a small coral bank, about one cable in diameter, situated midway between the islands, and steep-to all round. Between the coral bank and the middle islet there is a depth of 7 to 9 fathoms, but a one fathom patch lies 2 cables north of that islet. North of the coral bank the depth is 6 to 7 fathoms, soft bottom, with a patch of 2 fathoms near the edge of the shoal extendmg 2i cables from the north islet. Between Pulo Tengah and the outer islet there is a chapnel on either side of a reef which always breaks, to which a proper berth must be given. Auchorage. — Vessels sometimes run under these islands for shelter from N.W. winds. There is a depth of 3 to 3^ fathoms at 2 cables eastward of Pulo Tapies or inner islet j and 7 to 8 fathoms the same distance eastward of Pulo Tengah or middle islet. Directions. — In approaching Tiko road, the outer islet should be approached bearing about East, or southward of that bearing, passing within one mile of its west and south sides, where there are depths of from 15 to 17 fathoms, to avoid the numerous shoals lying from 3 to 15 miles south and south-westward of it, over some of which the swell may be seen to roll if there be any sea. COAST. — Directions. — ^Pulo Kasi, situated about 14 miles south- east of Tiko islands, is small, covered with trees, with a sandy beach, and distant about 2 miles from the main. Rocks extend in places to the distance of one or two cables from the beach. The coast between it and Tiko islands is hilly. The passage from Tiko to the southward, inside the principal shoals, is generally considered the best, by keeping in from 16 to ] fathoms, and the coast is safe to approach to 6 or 7 fathoms in many places. Some navigators state that there are no shoals in depths under 16 fathoms on this part of the coast ; others assert that some shoals are situated near it in 5 or 6 fathoms. The bfest guide, therefore, is, after leaving Tiko islands, to keep in from 16 to 10 fathoms, soft ground; for the bottom is all soft, except near the shoals. Earang Durian. — South-westward of Pulo Kasi are several isolated reefs which break in bad weather, with deep water between ; the nearest to the island is distant 1| miles. Karang Durian, the outer reef, lies with Pulo Kasi bearing N,E. by B. ^ E. distant about 4 miles. * Hee plan of Tiko road, scale, m = 1 J inches on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760. 188 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iii. The channel between Pulo Kasi and the reefs is clear, with depths of 15 io 17 fathoms, and the island should be passed at the distance of about half a mile. On the east side of Pulo Kasi there is also a safe channel, with 6 fathoms near the island, decreasing regularly to 3 and 2 fathoms about one mile from the main. PRIAMAN ISLANDS, three in number, lie in a N.N.W, and S.S. direction abreast of the settlement of the same name on the main, about 1^ miles distant, and afford shelter from N.W. or westerly winds ; Pulo Anso, the northernmost, has a well of fresh water, from which vessels are supplied. A reef projects about 2 cables from the south-west part of Pulo Anso, having 7 fathoms close to; and a patch of 4| fathoms lies half a mile W.N.W. of the islet. Pulo Tengah, the middle island is distant nearly one mile from Pulo Anso, with 3J to 6 fathoms water in the channel between. The channel eastward of the island has about 3 fathoms near the island, decreasing gradually towards the shoals off Priaman.* Pulo Ujong, the southern islet, is distant three-quarters of a mile from Pulo Tengah, and each of them is about one cable in diameter. Gusoiig Sibarot is a breaking reef situated half a mile south-west of the south islet. Priaman. — The town or village of Priaman, in lat. about 0° 38' S., is situated on the south point of a small river, the entrance to which is so shallow that a boat cannot enter until near high water. At about half a mile off the mouth of the river, within the 3 fathom line, are several rocky patches with a depth of 2 fathoms, sand, between them and the shore. Directions. — Approaching from the northward, having passed within a short distance either side of Pulo Kasi, a vessel should enter Priaman road by the channel between Pulo Anso and Tengah ; anchoring in from 3 to 5 fathoms inside under shelter of either of them. COAST. — Directions. — Vessels not entering Priaman road, bound to Padang or south-eastward, from abreast Pulo Tengah must steer to avoid the breaking reef, half a mile west of the south islet, thence steering along the coast at a moderate distance until Pulo Sauh is approached, there being no known danger in this part. There is a channel on either side of that islet, but that to the westward is the best and most direct, care being taken to avoid the shoal lying three-quarters of a mile W.S.W. of it. When southward of Pulo Sauh, a direct course may be steered for Padang flagstaff, or for the anchorage under Pulo Pisang Besar should unfavourable weather be apprehended, where vessels are sheltered from N.W. and westerly. winds. * See Admiralty chart, Priaman to Ujong Indrapnra, No. 709 ; also plan of Priaman road on Admiralty chart, No. 2,760 ; scale m = 0'7 inch. ciiAp.iii.] PRIAMAN ISLANDS. — PADANG-. 189 PADANG.— Northern approach.— Padang Islands, seven in number, interspersed with numerous reefs, lie from S to 12 miles off Padang, and the coast northward of it.* PulO BandO (Tuju), in .about lat. 0° 46' S., long. 95° 59' E., the northernmost, is small and encircled by a reef which is steep-to. A coral bank steep-to, lies N. W. ^ N., 4 miles from Pulo Bando. Other dangerous reefs lie K.W. distant 11 and 14 miles from the islet. Pulo Pie (Annam) lies 9 miles south-east of Pulo Bando, between which there are a considerable number of shoals having deep water close-to. Stort reef, having about 3^ fathoms water, is one mile long north and south, and lies with Pulo Pie bearing E. by E^. f N. distant 7 miles. Marion reef, with a depth of about 5 fathoms, lies between Pulo Pie and Stort reef, with the former bearing N.E. by E. | E. distant 5 miles, on which there is a lighthouse. PxilO Pandang (Ampat) lies S.S.E. | E., 5 miles from Pulo Pie. It may be approached to a distance of 2 cables. Nearly midway between the two islands there is an extensive shoal having 2^ fathoms least water.f Pulo Thoren (Tega) is the southern and largest of the Padang group, and has a pyramidal stone beacon on it. Dorothea reef, having 2 fathoms least water, lies nearly midway between Pulo Pandang and Pulo Thoren, three miles south-east of the former. Pulo Ayer (Lima), one of the innermost islands, lies East, distant 6;^ miles from Pulo Pie. A reef with 5 fathoms or less, lies midway between the two islets, at about half a mile northward of a line joining them. A similar reef lies one mile south-eastward of Pulo Ayer. Pulo Sibontar (Sato), the easternmost, is small, high, and flat, distant 4^ miles S.S.E. of Pulo Ayer, and 7 miles west of Apenberg. Its north-east and east sides are foul to half a mile distant. Karang Sipakal, a shoal of 5 fathoms or less, lies 2 miles N.E. | E. of Sibontar, with deep water between. Pulo Bindalang (Dua), is a little larger than Sibontar, and lies 2 miles south-west, having a safe passage between them. A shoal, with a depth of 2 fathoms, lies S.E. f E. 2 miles from Bindalang. A similar shoal lies nearly 2 miles south-west of this, at 2| miles E. by N". of Pulo Thoren. Pulo Sauh, is a small islet 6 miles N.W. of Padang head and 2 miles oft" shore, with a reef projecting about a quarter of a mile from its south end. A shoal lies W.S.W. three-quarters of a mile from the islet. Bellona shoal, with a depth of 5 fathoms or less, lies S.E. by S. distant 3^ miles from Pulo Thoren, the southern islet of the Padang group. Between Thoren and Bellona shoal, and S.E. | E. 2 miles from the islet, there is a rock above water. * See Admiralty chart : — Padang road, No. 212 ; scale, m = 4* 7 inches, t See light, page 192. 190 WEST COAST OP SUMATUA. £chap. hi, SOUTHERN APPROACH. - Pule Niamok or MuskitO, situated about 18 ibiles southward of Padang head, and 6 miles off the coast, is the outer and south-eastern island in the approach to Padang from the southward. It is a low island covered with trees, with a square-shaped beacon 26 feet high on its south-west side. Reefs extend to the distance of about half a mile from the north and south sides of the island. Karang Laut lies about lO^ miles N.W. from Pulo Niamok and 6 miles southward of Pulo Thoren, the southern Padang island. It was formerly a breaking reef, but trees have since grown up, and a beacon has also been erected. Between Pulo Niamok and Karang Laut lies Iskander shoal, with Pulo Niamok bearing S.E. "^ S~ distant 3^ miles. A similar shoal lies E. by S. 4 miles from Karang Laut. Pulo Merak (Marra) lies 4^ miles N.N.E. of Niamok, and 2 miles off shore. It is 1\ miles in extent, inhabited, and affords good water. Pulo Bintangor and Pulo Seronda are small islets lying northward of Pulo Merak. There is anchorage in from 10 to 20 fathoms on the east side of all these islets, and shelter from N.W. and West winds. The best route to Padang from the southward is westward of Pulo Merak and close- to on either side of Pulo Bintangor and Seronda. Dolphin and Serinda shoals.— Dolphin shoal lies nearly 3 miles N.W. by W. from Pulo Merak ; and Karang Serinda W. by N. distant 2 miles from Pulo Bintangor, with deep water between. Pulo SenarO lies 4 miles N.W. from Pulo Seronda, and is covered with cocoa-nut trees. A shoal lies nearly midway between these islets. A ehoal of about 3 fathoms lies N.E. by E. about If miles from Pulo Senaro ; and a reef with a rock above water lies W.N.W., distant 2J miles from Pulo Senaro. The above are the principal dangers in the southern approach to Padang, but it is necessary to keep a careful look out aloft when in the vicinity of any of these reefs. PADANG is the chief settlement of the Dutch on the west coast of Sumatra or the head residentie of the district. Its principal portion, with a fort, is situated on the north bank of the river, one mile within Apenberg head. It is generally considered healthy. There are no regular wet and dry seasons ; rain most frequently falls during the night, but sometimes it rains for two or three days in succession. Padang is an open port and connected with Batavia by a telegraph cable. Supplies. — Provisions, bullocks, poultry, fruit, vegetables, and fresh water, are abundant. Coal. — The Dutch Government have a small coal depot here. CHAT. 111.] PADANG UOAD. 191 The principal exports are coffee, gold dust, benzoin, nutmegs, and cinnamon; and the. imports are opium, cloth, and other dry goods. Every three months there is a coffee sale, most of which goes to New York. FadaUg river is only navigable by boats or small vessels in fine weather, the depths at low water being 8 and 9 feet at the entrance, and from 9 to 14 feet a little way inside ; the rise of tide is about 4 feet at springs. It is dangerous to enter the river when the wind blows strong from West or N.W., for the sea then breaks entirely across the entrance and a continuous breaker extends from Padang head to the south-west point of the shoal that stretches nearly from it to within half a mile of the north end of Pulo Pisang. Padang or Apenberg head, the south point of entrance to Padang river, is a high bluff headland, having a flagstaff on its summit. Whale rock lies close westward of the head. In approaching from the offing, Padang head will easily be known by its bluff aspect, and the coast southward of it being bold high land ; whereas the land near the sea to the northward of the river is low, and all the coast is low thence to Priaman, but far in the country the land is generally high.* A vessel arriving when the weather is favourable, and intending to remain a short time, may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, soft ground, with Apenberg flagstaff bearing E. ^ N". or East, distant from the bluff headland 1\ or 1^ miles. If the weather be threatening it will be prudent to proceed to the proper road, eastward of Pulo Pisang. Pulo Pisang Besar, about l^ miles S. by W. ^ W. from Padang head, is a small island, about half a mile in diameter, with a short landing pier on its eastern side. A coral bank extends about 40 yards from the shore of this island, and is steep-to all round.* There is a safe passage of 6 and 7 fethoms inside Pulo Pisang Besar, but it is narrow in some places, particularly betwixt the north end of the island and the extensive shoal bank that occupies most of the space between Padang head and Pulo Pisang Ketchil, and which extends to within 2 cables of Pulo Pisang Besar, on the shoalest part of which the depth is but 10 feet, hard sand ; this passage is seldom used by large vessels. The deepest water is close to Pulo Pisang Besar. Water may be obtained by digging wells four or five feet deep at the foot of the hills on Pulo Pisang Besar ; the water, although soft and pleasant to taste, is said to be impregnated with saltpetre, and not very wholesome ; the firewood is also indifferent. Padang road. — Anchorage.— The best and most sheltered anchorage is about one cable eastward of Pulo Pisang Besar, known as Padang road, in depths of from 4 to 6 fathoms, soft clay, mooring east and * &e light, page 192. 192 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. iii. west, and -with the north point of the island bearing not more westerly than N.W. Temporary anchorage may be taken off Apenberg head as before mentioned. LIGHTS. — From an iron lighthouse, painted white, erected on Pulo Pandang, is exhibited, at an elevation of 108 feet, a_/?a;c«? white light visible in clear weather for a distance of 19 miles. A red harbour light, 16 feet above high water is exhibited from the north- west side of Apenberg, visible between the bearings of B. by N., through south to S.W. from a distance of 4 miles. On the southwest point of Pulo Pisang Besar, from an iron support 75 feet above high water, is exhibited a fixed white liglit, visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 to 12 miles. Tides. — The rise of the tide is from 5 to 6 feet. DIRECTIONS— Prom the Northward— Vessels bound to Padang from the northward, and having passed between Pulo I'inie and the main (see page 185), should steer to the southward ti^pass westward of Drake and Pylades reefs ; and then make for Pulo Banda, the northern Padang island. This route is preferable to the passage inside the reefs when the wind is fair, but as tlie current runs with the wind, this route is not so convenient for sailing vessels in contrary winds, there being no anchorage. Vessels taking the inshore route must keep a careful look-out -aloft ; directions for this route will be found with the description of the various places along the coast. Having made Pulo Bando bearing about E. by S. \ S. it may then be steered for and passed on either side at about half a mile distance ; this course should be continued until about o miles eastward of Pulo Bando, whence steer for Padang road, passing between Pulo Ayer and Pulo Sauh. Entering Padang road from the westward, which appears to be the best route, it is advisable to approach Pandang lighthouse bearing East, to avoid Stort and Marion reefs, thence passing close south of Pulo Pandang, and between Sibontar and Bindalang to the anchorage in Padang road under Pulo Pisang Besar. Large vessels should always use the south channel in proceeding to the anchorage under Pulo Pisang Besar, passing south of the island at about a quarter of a mile distant, and then steering for the berth recommended off the pier, where they will be sheltered from West and N.W. winds. When these winds prevail, boats cannot pass between Padang river and the vessels under Pulo Pisang, on account of the breakers stretching across the passage. Vessels entering by the north channel must round the north end of Pulo Pisang Besar in 7 or 8 fathoms at a cable distant ; the water will shoal as she runs in, to 6 and 5 fathoms, which is the least near the island ; but CHAP. III.] PADANG ROAD — BONGAS BAT. 193 towards the maia, and Pulo Pisang Kechil, the depths decrease to 4 and 3 fathoms, hard sand. Prora the Southward. — ^Vessels approaching Padang from the southward, with a favourable wind, should make Pulo Nianiok (Muskito) & low islet with trees from 30 to 50 feet high, with a square tower 26 feet high on its south-west extreme. The island should not be brought to bear westward of N. by W. ^ W., to avoid the shoals between it and Pulo Panyu, nor approached within one mile as reefs extend about 5 cables from it. Having passed Niamok at about one mile distant, on either side, course should be shaped to pass the same difctance west of Pulo Merak, and at about half a mile westward of Pulo Bintangor and Seronda to avoid Dolphin and Seronda shoals. There is also a narrow and safe passage eastward of Pulo Bintangor and Pulo Seronda with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms, and which is generally considered the best. Having passed Pulo Seronda by either channel, it should then be brought to bear South, steer- ing North for Pulo Pisang Besar lighttibuse, which course will lead about midway between Marlborough shoal and the 3-f athom shoal lying 1 ^ miles north-eastward of Pulo Senaro, to Padang road. The general course by this channel being about North it would not be available with the wind near N.W. There is also a straight channel to Padang road, close southward of Palo Thoren beacon ; between it and the dry rock south-eastward of it. An apparently safe channel in which the course is about N.E. is lo make the low islet Pulo Laut, on which there is a beacon, and passing it on either side theuee steer N.E. ^ E. between Pulo Senaro and thjB small low islet lying 2^ miles north-west of it, steering for Pisang Besar light when bearing N.E. by N. To make an East course from seaward to the road, the channel south of Pandang lighthouse must be taken. A sail- ing vessel may take either of the routes described which will give her a leading wind. A good look-out aloft should be kept. The CORSt, from Padang to the distance of 30 miles southward, is intersected by numerous bays and inlets, several of which, being pro- tected from the sea by the islands contiguous to them, form excellent harbours. The land near the sea is generally of moderate height, and, farther in the country, more elevated. Mount Talang, 8,330 feet in height, at about 18 miles from the coast, should be a conspicuous object and a good landmark when approaching the neighbourhood of Padang in clear weather. BONGAS BAY, situated 5 miles south-eastward of Padang road, is a safe harbour, with 14 or 15 fathoms in the entrance, and from 10 to 6 fathoms inside. Pulo Cassie, a small islet, lies near the middle of the northern arm of the bay, with a shoal about 3 cables N.N.E. of it. A shoal is said to lie about the same distance eastward of the islet. In ij aofifi.s. j{ 194 WEST COAST OP StTMATIlA. [chap. iir. approaching Bongas bay, the north point of entrance kept bearing East, or the middle of a small hill at the bottom of the bay, in line with a high hill inland, leads clear southward of Marlbro' rock- when in the entrance, borrow towards the northern side to avoid the shoals oflf Pulo Cassie, and anchor between it and the island, where there is good shelter. At the south-east angle of the bay there is anchorage in 6 to 12 fathoms water, secured from nearly all winds ; shoal water extends off the point and island that form the north-east side of this anchorage, and there is also a shoal nearlj' in the middle of the entrance. There are several villages in this bay, and towards Padang.* Brandytvine bay is shallow, and lies between Padang road and Bongas bay. It affords shelter froin North and West winds near its head to light-draught vessels, northward of a 2f -fathoms bank, where depths of 3 to 4 fathoms, mud, will be obtained. - . Shoal water extends about half a mil6 southward of Ujong Batu Pileh the western point of the bay, and the depth 'is but 4 fathoms between it and Pulo Telur. Marlbro' rock, in the southern approach to Brandywine bay, lies W. by N". f N. 1^ miles from the north point of Bongas bay, and three- quarters of a mile S. by W. ^ W. from Pulo Teliir, with 15 and 16 fathoms close-to. Between Marlbro' rock and Pulo Teliir there is a safe passage. Simgi Fisang bay lying close southward of Bongas bay, is about one mile across, and open to westerly winds. Two rocks He in the entrance, with depths of 1 J and 2 fathoms ; abreast the rocks, close to the northern shore, there is narrow passage with 15 and 17 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8 and 9 fathoms; there is also a narrow passage between Pulo Kuah off its entrance, and the southern point of the bay. Sungi Fiuang bay lies southward of Sungi Pisang bay, and north-eastward of Pulo Merak. It is free from outlying dangers. In this bay vessels are sheltered from almost every wind, it being only open to S.S.W., and the depths are from 26 fathoms in the middle, decreasing to 11 and 6 fathoms at its head. TRUSSAN HARBOUR, formed eastward of the large island Pulo Tyabeda or Sabadda, is about 5 miles in extent, and safe, with general depths of from 8 to 16 fathoms, soft bottom. It is a place with considerable trade. There are two passages into the harbour, on either side of Pulo Tyabeda ; the northern one, about one-third of a mile wide, b ears East from the north end of Pulo Merak, and lies close to the southward of Sungi Pinang ba,y. Entering by this channel, the northern shore must * See Admiralty chart: — Friaman to Ujong Indrapnra,ITo. 709 ; scale, i»-=0-28 of an inch. CHAP, in.] TRUSSAN HARBOUR. — TTINGKOK BAY. 195 be kept, to avoidia 2-fathoms shoal lying about 3 cables west from the north- west point of Pulo Tyabeda in line with the north-feast point.- The latter point brought well open leads clear. Within the entrance the channel is safe. The entrance, southward of Pulo Tyabeda, has three islands. Pulo Trussan, the largest, lies in the middle of the entrance ; the others, on the north side, are connected to the shore by reefs. There is a channel about 1^ cables wide, between Pulo Trussan and the northern islets, with depths of from 10 to 20 fathoms. The channel southward of Pulo Trussan is said to be a very narrow passage with only 3 feet water, but this statement is doubtful, as the chart shows 18 fathoms in it. Pulo Saytan, in the middle of Trussan harbour, is nearly surrounded by shoal water and dry rocks ; E. by N. from it, upon the main, and close to the shore, there is a waterisg'plaoe . A line of shoals extends north-east- ward from Pulo Saytan to^the head of the harbour. TYINGKOK BAY lies about 10 miles south-eastward of Trussan bay, and has regular soundings and good anchorage at its iT.W. part, near Liimpiir village, and also in Painan harbour. It is the northernmost of four bays in the extensive bight formed between Ujong Baton and Ujong Telok Kersik. Several islands and shoals lie off this portion of the coast. Islets. — Pulo Ayer Besar, the largest of the islands, lies about 8^ miles south-west of Tyingkok bay. It is the residence of a Malay chief, and has a conspicuous roundhill ; on the south side of it is Pulo Ayef'- keehil, also inha,bited, and a resf prcgeets from it nearly to the larger island. Pulo Kombang and Pulo Babi lie neariy mid- way between these islands and the mainland to the northward, and Pulo Semanki, a group of rocks, lies off &« entrance to Tyingkok bay. Wood and water, poultry and sheep, may be procured at Pulo Babi. Panyu, the outer islet, lies 8 miles south-west of Ayer Besa**, and 10 miles off shore. All these islands have deep watei" within a short distance. Reef Si — A reef with a depth of 2 fathoms, which sometimes breaks, lies with the hill on Pulo Ayer Besar bearing E, f S. distant 5^ miles; and a patch of about 4 fathoms half a cable in extent, lies 2 J miles W. by N. of it.* yessels should pass well to the westward of a line joining Pulo Niamok and Pulo Panyu. Erasmus reef with a depth of 4 fathoms, lies N.N.W. distant IJ miles from Pulo Panyu ; a reef also lies N.E.TayE. distant 4 miles from the same islet. When there is much swell the sea is seen to roll over it. * A similar patch is charted half a mile north-west of this 4 fathoms patch, but they are probably identical. N 2 196 WEST COAST OP SUMATRA. [cHAr. in. These reefs are all steep-to aud must be carefully avoided. Directions. — Anchorage. — Approaching Tyingkok bay from the northward, vessels may pass on either side of !N'iaraok, thence steering for Pulo Kombang to avoid the shoals south-eastward of Niamok. Between Pulo Kombang and Ayer Besar, the depths are from 16 to 25 fathoms. From between these islands the flagstaff of Pulo Tyingkok (Painam) or Chenco may be seen upon a round hill to the north-eastward, and which should be steered for, passing south of the Semankie group, and anchor off Pulo Tyingkok in 12 fathoms. Painam harbour lies eastward of Pulo Tyingkok, with a depth in the channel south of the island of 9 and 10 fathoms, and from 4 to 7 fathoms in the harbour. Painam is a place of considerable trade, and has a wharf for the convenience of lading and unlading goods. COAST. —Batuwang bay and Telok Kersik, are two small bays lying southward of Tyingkok bay. Both afford good anchorage in moderate depths, but open to westerly winds. About 6 miles south-east- ward is situated Batang Kapas bay, having also good anchorage ground, but open to S.W. winds. Off-lying Islets. — The islets and reefs lying between Pulo Panyu and Ujong Indrapuru, from 5 to 15 miles off the coast, will now be described. Pulo Ayer Karaba Kechil, lies 9 miles south-eastward of Pulo Panyu, and 5 miles from Ujong Radya on the main. Two miles northward of Ujong Kadya, and one mile off shore lie some rocks, dry at low water. Pulo Ayer Karaba Besar is 4 miles south-westward of Karaba Kechil. A shoal lies W.N.W. 2^ miles from Karaba Besar and there is said to be another about 1^ miles to the southward. Pulo Kersik or Sandy island lies south-eastward about 7 miles from Pulo Ayer Karaba Besar. Within a distance of 6 miles of Pulo Kersik, and between the bearings ofW.S.W. and S.S.W., there is a cluster of .shoals, some of which break occasionally. Pulo Katang Katang, or Tree island, bears nearly South, distant 10^ miles from Pulo Kersik, and is nearly 15 miles off shore. A sand- bank lies E.N.E. distant 3 miles from it. Pulo Baringin, the southernmost of the chain of islands in this locality, lies 4 miles E. f S. from Pulo Katang Katang. A shoal lies 1^ miles S. by W. ^ W. distant 1^ miles from Baringin; and another at 4 miles South from the same islet. Karang Semedang is a reef 3 miles off the coast, with mount Linga bearing E. by S. distant 6 miles, and on which the sea breaks in bad weather. Between the distances of 2^ and 5 miles N.W. by N. from CHAP, m.] TTINGKOK BAT. — INDBAPURA POINT. 197 Karang Semedang, and 2 miles south-westward of Palangi village are four shoals. Also abreast Lakitan hill at one mile off shore, there is another shoal. Ayer Adye river may be known by mount Linga or Volcano mount, a remarkable round hill covered with trees near the sea, about 3 miles to the northward. It is not easily made out, but a flag is some- times hoisted near the entrance. It is best to anchor in not less than 8 fathoms, about 2\ miles off shore, w^ith the flagstaff bearing East. If N.W. or West winds are apprehended, a vessel should anchor in 12 or 1 3 fathoms, in order to clear Indrapura point, should she be unable to remain, as this anchorage, which is little visited, is not considered safe with those winds. The bar is dangerous for boats at low water, and at all times when there is a swell. The village is 2 miles up the river. Pangsan village is situated on the coast at about 2 miles northward of Ayer Adye, and Passier Ganting or Indrapura, another village, lies just south of Indrapura river, at 4 miles southward of Ayer Adye. INDRAPURA POINT, distant 14 miles southward of Ayer Adye, is low, and its extremity covered with trees. From hence to Eenkulen there are no islands near the coast, Pulo Baringin being the southernmost of the chain, whicli may be said to commence at Passage- island, near Singkel. COAST. — Directions.* — Proceeding southward from abreast Tyingkok bay it will be prudent if coasting along, to keep 4 or 5 miles off shore when southward of Ujong Eadya, to avoid Karang Semedang and other reefs northward of it. Mount Lakitan about 2 miles within Ujong Radya, Lakitan hill 8 miles ta the south-eastward, and Mount Linga 11 miles farther in that directions- will be of much assistance in fixing the position of a vessel when navigating in this locality. At about 27 miles inland are the high peaks of Grunong Korintji (3,700 feet) and Patah Sembilan. There appears to be no danger inshore between Karang Semedang and Ujong Indrapura, other than the shelving shore bank in the bight northward of that point. Southward of Indrapura point, if the wind be steady, and the vessel bound to Benkulen, a direct course may be steered along the coast, keeping from 6 to 15 mUes off; but with light winds it will be proper to preserve moderate depths, from 15 to 23 fathoms for anchoring, if requisite ; never exceeding 30 fathoms, nor borrowing under 10 fathoms towards the shore, in case of getting into rocky ground. * See also Admiralty chart: — Sumatra West Coast, sheet lI.,Tyingkol£ bay tp Sunda strait, No. 2,761. 198 WEST COAST 01" SUMATRA. [ohap. ni. In the daytime, with, a good look-out, most of the dangers will be visible; at night, a vessel should keep well outside all the islets. Moko Moko, in about lat. 2° 34^' S. and 28 miles south-eastward of Indrapura point, lies in a small bay, and was once an English settle- ment ; it is a place of some trade. The two points that form the bay are covered with tall trees, and about 12 or 15 miles north-westward a remarkable gap in the trees may be discerned. Approaching Moko Moko from the northward, the position of the doubtful shoal, referred to in the foot note, and which is about 6 miles off shore, should be passed with caution, keeping within 3 or 4 miles of the shore. When the houses and flagstaff at Moko Moko village are seen they may be steered for, anchoring in 10 fathoms, soft ground, with the flagstaff bearing E. by N. distant 2^ or 3 miles, and Moko Moko peak, which is remarkable, N.E. | N. Small vessels may, if requisite, anchor closer in. Surf. — The native boats must be employed in landing, on account of the surf. The coast in the neighbourhood is a sandy beach on to which a heavy swell is generally sent, as is usually the case on most parts south of the equator. A shoal extends from Moko Moko, to the distance of 7 iniles, southward, ahdto afeout 1^ miles off shore.* Ayer Dikkit, about lO miles southward of Moko Moko, and a little southward of a bluff point covered with trees, may be recognized by the denseness of the trees on each side of the mouth of the river. The bar of the river is dangerous and unnavigable, even for boats. There is anchorage off its mouth in 8 or 10 fathoms. Bantall River, is 7 miles south-eastward of Ayer Dikkit, and may be known by two white cliffs a little to the northward, appearing from the offing- like boats under sail. The best anchorage in the road is in 8 or 9 fathoms, ooze and sandy bottom, with the white cliffs l^.N-.E., and the river N.E. Between Bantall and Ipu are three rivers, Tramang, Ayer Itam, and Ayer Euta ; Tramang, the northernmost, has a small red cliff on the north side of the entrance : the coast, embracing those rivers, may be approached to 12 or 14 fathoms regular soundings in most places. Ipu, in lat. 2° 59' S., may be known by three red cliffs to the south- ward, and three green hills near the sea. Large vessels may anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the central cliff bearing N.E. by E.; here the road is tolerably clear ; further in the bottom is foul. The coast southward of * There is said to be a bank of rocks and sand, having 2^ or 3 fathoms -water on the shoalest part, at about 10 or 12 miles W.N.W. from Moko Moko. — Horsburgh. A shoal, the existence of which is also doubtful, lies S.W. by W., distant 7 or 8 miles from Moko Moko. CHAP..ni.] MOEO MOEO-i — BENKTJLEN. 199 Ipu consists of reddish cliffs, and is fronted by a coral bank which stret.clve|< out,4 or 5 miles, with depths of 6 to 10 fathoms on its, out^r edge;, it extends from Ipu to Ketaan, a distance of 32 miles, and should not be approached under 10 or 12 fathoms, as it is steep to. Near itsinorjihern edge; is Sw^owfield rock, bearing S.W. | W. about 5. miles from Jpu, witl»- a depth of 14 feet, and from 8 to 16 fethoms all round. Ipu bearings E.N.E., leads clear to the northward mf the bank and rock. ^^ Ketaau (Caytone),. in lat..3° 25' S., has a white cliff to the south- ward like a eastle. Nearly midway between Ipu and Ketaan there is the small, village of Sablat,, appearing like an opening betwixt reddisL cliffs ; iKefcaan has » similai" appearance. Laye and Pali are two small villages situated at 14 and 20 miles south- eastward of Ketaan, with red cliffs between them. From Ketaan the distance is 33 miles to Benkulen, and the coast in this, space is safe to approach occasionally to 11 or 12 fathoms, the soundings being more regular than farther to the northward ; from 12 to 20 fathoms are good depths to preserve when coasting. BENKULEN an open port, was formerly the principal British settle- ment on this coast, but with the advance of Singapore, trade declined so much that it was finally given up. The settlement was first formed on the banks of the river, but the locality being so unhealthy, it was removed to Ujong Karang or Tapu Padrie, the south point of the bay, where fort Marlborough was built on ground a little more elevated in the year 1685.* It is now a Dutch possession. The town is unhealthy. Eain is frequent dming the months of January and February. Supplies. — Coal. — Bullocks, poultiy, fruit, and vegetables of various tinds may be obtained here, and water from a cistern near the landing place. A few tons of native coal may probably be obtained, .but it is of a poor quality. There is a bi-monthly steamer from Batavia and Padangj belonging to the Dutch Indies Steam Company. BeuktlleiL river, falls into the bay about 1| miles north-east- ward of the town, has from 4 to 6 feet on the bar, and from 8 to 12 feet inside. , North-eastward of the river the land is high and rugged, one, of the hills, named the sugar loaf (Bunku) about 1,000 feet high, is a con- spfcuous mark in some directions from seaward. BENKULEN B,OAD* may be considered as that portion of the coast lying between Ujong Pedattie 5 miles northward of Benkulen, and Ujong * See plan of Benkulen road on Admiralty chart. No. 2,761 j scale, m = 0-7 of an inch. 200 WEST COAST OP SUMATRA. [chap. hi. Siabung or Buffel point at about '7 miles to the southward, forming on either side of the town a large bay. The usual anchorage is between the town and Pulu Tikus, in about 12 fathoms, at about 2 miles N.N.E. ^ E. from the island. Under that depth the bottom is generally rocky, and also farther out it is foul in places. Close to the entrance of Tikus island basin, and fronting it to the distance of one mile north-eastward, the bottom is mostly soft, and where vessels in the southerly monsoon may anchor in 13|- or 14 fathoms under shelter of the reef. When N.W. winds, which prevail from September to March, blow strong, a heavy sea sometimes rolls into the road, which necessitates weigh- ing or slipping the cables and running for Pulo bay in the south part of road, and hereafter described. In this season, vessels that do not go into Pulo bay, or Tikus island basin, should anchor eastward and within a mile of Tikus light-house, in about 15 fathoms, where the sea will be partly broken by the reef. The same business may be done from this position in favourable weather as if a vessel were in the usual anchorage in the road ; for sailing boats, passing to and from the town, are confiued to one trip in 24 hours by the land and sea breezes. "Weatlier Signal. — A blue flag is hoisted on the iron standard of the harbour light at the town, whenever it is dangerous for boats to go in or out. Inner road. — The inner road, with 4 and 4^ fathoms water, lies north-westward of the fort, and inside Patah Sambilan reefs ; it is some- times frequented by small vessels in the fair season, for the convenience of loading and unloading. Vessels or boats should not venture inside without a pilot as the North and South breakers are not always visible when the sea is smooth ; then a high surge is only at times seen to roll over the rocks, which would prove fatal to any boat that unfortunately got into it. Close outside Patah Sambilan, the North and South breakers, there are depths of 7 and 8 fathoms, and 6 fathoms inside of them. Nearly abreast the fort, a little outside the landing-place, there is a patch of 3^ fathoms, at a short distance from the edge of the shore reef, which extends about 3 cables off shore. The landing-place is protected from the sea by a rocky ledge fronting it at a distance of 150 yards : bosits pass round the eastern point of this ledge, and then haul in to the southward for the wharf, which is about 60 feet long, with a depth alongside of about 3 feet at low water. Buoys. — A red buoy, with staif and cage, marks the north extreme of the North breaker, but it is not to be depended on ; also an Iron mooring buoy lies in the inner road in 5^ fathoms, for the use of boats warping in and out. oHAP.m.] BENKULEN EOAD. 201 Pulo Tikus or Rat island Basin.— Puio Tikus lies about 5 miles south-westward of Benkulen. It is surrounded by a coral reef about 2 miles in extent in a north-west and south-east direction, partly dry at low water, affording shelter from on-shore winds. Detached patches of 4^ fathoms lie E.N.E. off the main reef, at about three-quarters of a mile from the lighthouse. The island is low and small, with a lighthouse, a few palmyra trees 80 feet high, forming a clump, and a useful landmark ; also some houses for receiving pepper, and a small battery for its protection. On the north side of the island are two mooring buoys, convenient for vessels using the landing-stage. There is an excellent basin in the north-east side of the reef, with depths of 5 to 7 fathoms, soft mud, and 3 to 2^ fathoms at its upper end. The passage in is close to the edge of the reef on the west side ; several detached rocky patches lie off the east side, with 7 and 8 fathoms water close-to. Vessels requiring repair, or having a cargo to receive or deliver at fort Marlborough, generally warp into this basin, where they moor head and stern to anchors laid upon the reef, which is steep to. From this basin goods may be conveyed to or from fort Marlborough, with the same facility as from the road, the boats being able to make one trip daily with the land and sea breezes. Here a vessel is completely sheltered from the sea by the reef ; whereas it often runs so high in the road that goods are unsafe in the boats alongside, and they are frequently forced to run for shelter into Pulo bay, the N.W. winds sometimes giving very short warning of their approach. Tides. — It is high water at Benkulen at about 6 hours, rise from 3 to 5 feet. LIQHTS. — On Pulo Tikus, from an iron frame painted white, is exhibited at an elevation of 44 feet above the sea a _^xed white light, which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles. At Benkulen, on Tapu Padri point, the southern extremity of Ujong Karang, is exhibited for the guidance of small craft, a fixed red light elevated 59 feet above the sea, visible between the bearings of E. by N. and South, from a distance of 3 to 4 miles. Shoals. — GuSOng Sungi Lamu, lying about l^ miles south-west from Ujong Pedattie, is the northernmost slioal in the approach to Benkulen. The least water is 2^ fathoms, with 5 to 7 fathoms at a short distance. From the centre of the patch, the Sugar Loaf is in line with Ujong Pedattie. Patah. Sambilan, or North and South breakers, are the dangerous reefs which lie from a half to 1^ miles off the town. They do not always break, but as they are liable to do so suddenly, boats should not attempt to cross them. The outer one, within a depth of 5 fathoms, is two- thirds of a mile long, north and south, and separated from the eastern 202 WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. [chap. m. one by a narrow channel having a; depth of 6 fathoms. The; eastern shoal is a mile long north and south, and separated from iJie reef fringing Ujong Karang by a narrow diannel having 6 fathoms water. Middle Sboal, with a-depth of about 4 fathoms and 8 to 9 fathoms close to, lies nearly midway between the South breaker and G-usong Lan-puyang, with the Sugar-loaf bearing about N.E. by N. G-usong Lampuyang, or Black Bock, about if miles south- eastward of Middle shoal, is generally discernible by the sea breaking on it; between the rocks and the shore, distant 2 miles, the depths are 8 and 9 fathoms, with the same depth in the channel betwixt it and False Black Eock, which lies about half a mile West from the other, with 3f fathoms water. These shoals are avoided by keeping in more than 11 fathoms water. Vessels may pass inside of them by keeping in 8 fathoms. Karang Bayan and Karang Ikan Tandu are two reefs nearly connected, with depths of 5 and 6 fathoms, bearing from Eat island between "West and W.N.W., distant 2 or 2^ miles ; between these shoals and the reef suiTouiiding Eat island there is a passage nearly one mile wide, with 16 and 17 fathoms water. Karang Lebar or Asia Sboal, is the southern shoal in Benkulan road. It is about one mile in extent, with a depth of 4 fathoms, probably less, coral and sand, and lies about 4 miles westward of the west point of Pulo bay. There is a heavy ground-swell on it, which sometimes breaks in bad weather ; it ought therefore to be carefully avoided, more particularly as it lies much in the way of vessels approaching the road from the south- ward. DIRECTIONS. — Approaching Benkulen road by the Northern channel, Tikus island should not be approached between the bearings of East and E.S.E., within the distance of 3 miles, to avoid Karang Bayan and Ikan Taadu. The Sugar-loaf, bearing N.E. ^ E., or eastward of that bearing, until Tikus island lighthouse bears S.E. leads clear and northward of them, Avhence course may be taken for the anchorage in the road according to the season. In working to or from the road by this channel, a vessel may stand near the edge of Eat island reeft and to 13 fathoms towards Sungi Lamu rock and the main. Coming from the westward, the trees on Pulo Tikus will be seen before the Snga/r-loaf, which- is a conspicuous hill on a nearer approach. Approaching the road from the southward, a vessel should not bring Tikus island to the westward of N. ^ W. until within 3 miles of it, which will lead westward of Asia shoal; then she may steer N.N.E. for the road, or due East for Pulo bay, if bound there. There is a channel 3. miles wide, eastward of Asia shoal, with general depths of 17 or 18 GHAP. 111.] BENKITLEN. — PTJLO BAY. 203 fathoms. Vessels using .this channel should keep within 2 miles of the ■west point of Pulo bay until it bears East, and may then steer for Titus island or Pulo bay ; the point may be approached within half or three- quarters of a mile occasionally, in working ; but a reef projects from it about a third of a mile, with 3 fathoms on its edge, and 13 to 14 fathoms close to. Asia shoal may be seen by the overfalls on its edges. Pulo bay, 8 miles to the southward of Benkulen, is an excellent land- locked harbour, 2 miles in length by one mile in breadth. The entrance at its north east extreme is about 2 cables wide, with a depth of 3^ fathoms, and lies between the eastern extreme of the low peninsula forming the harbour, and the main. When vessels at anchor in Benkulen road are unable to remain during strong north-westers, they slip their cables if it is daylight, and run for Pulo bay. In doing so they should steer to the southward in not less than 12 fathoms, until the entrance of Pulo bay bears eastward of S.E. by E. ^ E., to avoid Lampuyang reefs, as they may not be always discernible in blowing weather, when tlie sea breaks much in the channel. Then, haul to the eastward for Sillebar river, and the depth will decrease gradually to 8 fathoms as the low sandy entrance point is approached; this point, at low water, may be rounded close to, and at high water, at the distance of a cable ; then haul up under the south side of it, and anchor in 7 fathoms, with the extremity bearing N.N.E., distant from the Crown pepper house nearly half a mile. The south side of Pulo bay, near the shore, is shoal and rocky, and there is a 4-feet shoal on the western side, the only one in the bay. If a vessel happen to lose all her anchors, she should haul close round the entrance point, and when well inside, run on shore in the mud, opposite the nearest tree, having previously prepared the boat with a hawser to make fast to it Thfe bay, being surrounded with low swampy ground, is unhealthy, and the water also is bad ; it is, therefore, little frequented. Vessels driven from their anchorage in the night cannot run for Pulo bay without the risk of getting on the outer low sandy point, for it will not be visible, nor is the lead of any assistance, there being 8 fathoms close to, and the same depths in a direct line to the N.N.W. ; it therefore seems advisable, if a ,vessel cannot ride it out during the night, to run to sea. Sillebar River, about one mile north- south-east direction, and from 18 to 25 miles in breadth, sepajrated from the Banjak islands by Pulo Nias north channel, 30 miles in breadth. It consists of ranges of hills reaching See Admiralty chart:— Sumatra west coast, sheet 1, No. 2,760. 208 ISLA.NDS OI'F THE WEST COAST OP SUMATRA. [ciiAr, iii. to 800 feet in height, with a fertile soil. It is subject to earthquakes, one o£ which (1843) swallowed up a hill and a village. It is thickly populated by an agricultural people who raise rice, cotton, and other useful products, and by their civilization form a marked contrast to the half-savage tribes who thickly inhabit the other islands. They are estimated at 170,000. The Malays, though small in number are the dominant race ; they live on the shores, their chief place being Sitolie on the north-eastern side. North shore. — ^At about 5 miles eastward of Tanjong Letang the north-west point of Pulo Nias, is a detached rock, at about one mile off ■ shore. Lapau bay affords shelter from northerly winds, under Pulo Panjang. Pulo Babi lies in the North channel, at about 11 miles north-north-east- ward of Tanjong Lojong, the north point of Nias island. The channel between is safe. A sunken rock is said to lie 5 miles north-eastward of Pulo Babi. West shore. — Bunga islands are situated about 13 miles southward of the north-west point of Pulo Nias. A reef extends about 1^ miles north-west of the North islet, and a detached reef lies nearly midway between the north island and the shore northward of it. The channel between the Bunga islands and Pulo Nias is 5 miles wide, and has from 10 to 36 fathoms water. ITakO islands, a group fronting Serumbu bay, are situated about 25 miles south-eastward of the Bunga islands. The channels between most of them have deep water, but that between Langu and Mangit is said to be foul. There is anchorage in the Nako islands, between Nako, Great Sendron- gan (Silorongang), and Mangit, with the village of Nako about N. by W. distant 2 miles, and Sendrongan village South about one mile. This space is sheltered from the sea by the surrounding islands and has a depth of 17 fathoms, mud and sand. It should not be approached from the west- ward, as numerous sandbanks are said to lie to the westward of Nako islands. The services of a native pilot could probably be obtained.* "Water may be had from a small stream near Sendrongan village. Aztec rock, on which the British barque Aztpc is said to have struck in 1879, in 16 feet water, is reported to lie in lat. 0' 55' N., long. 96° 48' E., or about 27 miles westward of the north islet of the Nako group. Breakers are reported to have been seen about 12 miles south-westward of Simanang, the centre island of Nako group. * The Rajah of the "Nako gi'oup appear to have taken Captaiu Murat's vessel to the anchorage. — Vide account in Horsburgh. <3JiAP. III.] BUNGA ISLANDS — BATU ISLANDS. 209 Merapi bank, one mile in diameter, with depths of from 6 to 8 fathoms, lies between Buaga and 'Nako islets, with the east point of Pulo Bunga bearing JiT.W., and Tanjong Kapulu K.N.E. ^ E. Other dangers lie eastward and south-eastward of the Nako group for which a good look-out should be kept. One of these, the Herzog Bern- hard, about 2 miles in length, lies about 10 mQes south-eastward of the ^roup, at about 6 miles off shore. SeriimbTl bay lies about 7 miles north-eastward of the Nako group. Anchorage will be found here in about 10 fathoms off Serurabu river with Ujong Serumbu bearing N.W. and Pulo Ache about E. by N. distant 1^ miles. The bar of the river is dangerous at times, and there are two shoals near Pulo Ache which must be avoided when approaching this anchorage from the southward. Also northward of Ujong Serumbu lies a large shoal ; the point should not be approached from the northward in a less depth than 10 fathoms. At the south end of Pulo Nias there are three bays named Telok La- gundi, Pohili, and Dalam ; in one of these (not named) there is good anchorage, where bullocks, buffaloes, goats, and poultry are plentiful, and water easily procured. Tbombill bank the least known depth on which is 18 fathoms and steep-to, lies about 8 miles southward of Pulo Nias, with the hill near ■Somo Somo, bearing about N.W. ^ W., and distant 15 miles. The east coast of Pulo Nias has moderate depths, with good anchorage, and some fine rivers ; especially one in lat. 0° 54' N., where trade is carried on in native craft : many isles line the coast here, as on the western side ; but the sea being more smooth on the eastern coast renders it safer. There is anchorage inside the islands and shoals at the east point of the island, at the mouth of Nias river : there are also other places where a vessel might anchor occasionally. Pulo SomOSOmO, a small island, lies 2 miles off the east extreme of Pulo Nias. Pulo Nias great channel lies between Pulo Nias and the Batu islands, and is about 40 miles across. This channel is safe with a good look-out, but the prudent navigator will be cautious when near any of the islands during the night, as the dangers are but imperfectly known. BATU ISLANDS.— Herzog Bernard, a small island dis- covered by the Netherlands war vessel of that name, in her passage from Padang to Acheen, 1874, lies in lat. 0° 2' S. long. 97° 36' E. off the western entrance to Pulo Nias Great channel. It is about 1^ miles long north and south, low and covered with bush. It may be considered the westernmost of the Batu group. U 20665, o 210 ISLANDS OFI' THE WEST COAST 01" SUMATRA. [cHlr. in. Pulo Simu lies 21 miles eastward of the position assigned to Herzog Bernard islet, A detached reef which breaks, lies about 1^ miles south- westward of the west extreme. The other sides of the inland are ap-' parently clear of danger beyond a short distance. The Batu islands are but little frequented, but a trade in dammer (gum) and other forest products is carried on by coasters from Padang. Tauah. Masa, or Batu island, the central and largest "of the Batu group, lies about 40 miles south-eastward of Pulo Mas, and forms the south side of Pulo Nias Great channel. It is 25 miles in length, north and south, and 5 miles in breadth. This, like the other large islands, is mo'derately elevated and hilly, covered with tr'ees, and many small islands line its shores both on the east and west sides, with moderate depths among thera, and forming safe bays or harbours, little known to Europeans. The north-east point of the island, named Batuwawa, is a bluff, with a reef projecting a quarter of a mile from it. AncllOrage. — There is anchorage close off the north shore of Tanah Masa, and also in the bay close westward of Batuwawa point, but exposed to the northerly monsoon. A few supplies may be obtained here, but no water. Also, on the east coast, about 3 miles south-eastward of Batuwawa point there is anchorage in 10 fathoms good holding ground, close southward of a small islet lying near the shore. There is a watering creek just southward of it. Lance or Lams bay lies about 8 miles south-eastward of Batu-Cvawa point, and is formed by two islands near the shore; a reef extends about one-third of a mile off the northern islet. The anchorage' here is in about 16 fathoms, sand and shells, nearly midway between the islets, with the north extreme of outer islet about S.E. by S. A few supplies may ' be gathered here. These anchorages on the east side are probably only suitable for small craft, but the least depth reported is 7 fathoms, avoiding patches, and the best track appears to be at about half a mile distant from the island. Tanah Masa with its adjacent islands extends north and south nearly 45 miles, fronted by a chain of about twenty isles of various sizes, some of them 13 or 14 miles distant from the main island, with dangerous reefs which are steep to. Pulo Pinie (native name (Kasanie), lying 9 miles north-eastward of the north end of Tanah Masa, nearly midway between it and the main, is of considerable extent, stretching nearly 20 miles east and west, and having islets and shoals extending off in nearly all directions for a distance of 7 or 8 miles. Those on the north-east and south-east sides have "been referred to at pages 185-6. CHAP. Ill,] BATU ISLANDS — SIBERUT STRAIT. 211 Southward of Pulo Pinie and nearly midway in the channel between it and Tanah Masa, is a reef on which the Netherlands India SSiGraqf van Bijlandt struck an 1885 ,• it is reported to lie about 2\ miles southward of Pasakie islands, with Easakie Besar beaiing N. by E., and Pasakie Kechil N.N.W. f W. As other shoals yet . jincharted are reported to exist in 'this {Channel, caution must be exercised when navigating it. ' Tauah. Balah., is the southern large islet of the Batu.groupi It is thickly woodedj attains a height of from 600 ,to 700 feet, and forms the north side of Siberut strait. SIBERUT STRAIT, between Tanah Balah and Siberiit island is 26 miles wide, and the passage usually about taken by steamers running between Achi and Batavia vid PadaUg. Sailing vessels have hitherto chosen the Seaflower channel, southward of Siberut island, said to be free from danger, but in which there is no alichorage ground. Since the survey of Siberut strait in 1877, and the establishment of a light on Pulo Bojo,-as well as the safe anchorage afforded in the southern portion of the strait, more particularly in the N.W. or fair monsoon period (November to May), most vessels will find it to their advantage to use it in preference to any other.* LIGHT. — On Pulo Bojo, from a white lighthouse 197 feet high, erected on the south-west side of the island, is exhibited at an elevation of 360 feet above the sea, & flashing white light, showing two flashes in quick succession every half minute, visible in clear weather between the bearings of S. by W. I W. (through west and north) and E. by S. f S., from a distance of 27 miles. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Siberut strait during the N.W. monsoon period at 7h. 30m., springs rise 2\ feet. The flood runs to E.N.E., at times from 2 to 3 knots, but is sometimes stopped altogether and even reversed by the westerly current which runs at this season. The ebb, increased by this current, is said to vary from 3 to 6 knots. On the east coast of Siberut, the flood runs to the southward and the ebb to the northwards Winds. — From November to May, when the N.W. monsoon prevails south of the equator, the weather is fine in Siberut strait, with cool westerly winds. During the day the wind is mostly fresh from N. W., shifting towards evening to S.W. and south. Over the coast of Sumatra, lightning with squally weather is seen towards night, but it does not extend off to Siberut. On that coast at this season, the N.W. monsoon is seldom felt northward of Kroe (5° S.) but land and sea breezes prevail with fine weather, and sometimes rain at night. * See Admiralty chart : — Sumatra west coast, sheet I., No. 2,760. 2 212 ISLANDS OFF THE "WEST COAST OF SUMATRA, [chap. m. Northern shore.— The south coast of TanahBalah forms the north shore of Siberut strait. Its western extreme, Hatik point is rocky, and has a remarkable clump of trees resembling a hillock. With the exception of a rocky point to the eastward the coast is sandy, and no dangers are known to exist other than those above water. Tn the bay, north-westward of Pulo Bojo there is a rock above water from which a spit extends off one cable to the eastward. As this portion of the strait has not been properly surveyed, and the water is generally deep with a heavy swell breaking all along this coast during the N.W. monsoon period, it is better to keep the Siberut island shore. Pulo Bojo, lying about 2 miles southward of Tanah Balah, is a small sloping island, fringed by a reef to the distance of about 3 cables ; there are depths of 30 fathoms between it and the reef extending 5 cables southward from Tanah Balah. See light, page 211. Beefs. — Heavy breakers were reported in 1876, by the steam-vessel Marion, on the east side of Tanah Balah, about 5 miles N.E. of Pulo Bojo, but the Dutch surveyors found 117 fathoms near this position, and make no mention of it. Graaf reef, about one mile in extent, lies E. by N. ^ N. distant 10 miles from the south point of Pulo Bojo. Southern shore — Anchorages. — The northern end of Siberut island, 15 miles in length in an east and west direction, forms the south side of Siberut strait. Ujong Siopah, the north-western extreme, is a rocky point, from which the coast trends E.N.E. to Boompjes point, a distance of 3 niUes. Boompjes is a double point with a conspicuous "white rock on the western head visible from the northward at the distance of 7 miles ; there is also a remarkable tree on it which is only seen from the eastward. With the exception of Boompjes point the whole shore is sandy. At about 4 miles eastward of Boompjes point there are several patches with a least depth of 4 fathoms, at about one mile off shore ; with this exception which only affects heavy draught vessels, the nortl^ shore may be safely approached for anchorage in from 10 to 20 fathoms, over a sandy bottom. Close eastward of Ujong Sigab there is anchorage in a bay in which the water is mostly very deep. By keeping close to the western shore anchorage may be taken in 20 fe^thoms at about 1^ or 2 cables off shore, when Pulo Sigir comes in line with the east point of the bay. Rocky patches lie in the middle of this bay about one cable eastward of this position. Also, there is anchorage under Pulo Sigir, which may be ap- proached by keeping close to the reef extending about half a mile south- east of that islet, to avoid shoal patches of 3 and 4 fathoms lying less than CHAP. III.] SIBBRUT STRAIT— MENTAWIE ISLANDS. 213 one mile south-east of it, and anchoring with the islet bearing N.N.E., distanj; about one mile, in 6 fathoms o£ water. Macassar reef, of sand and coral,, with a least depth of about 2 fathoms is 2 miles in extent, and lies in the centre of the western entrance to Siberut strait, and on the north-west edge of the bank extending from SiberSt island. This reejE breaks occasionally with the swell, and in strong winds the breakers will be visible from about 4 miles distant. from the reef, Ujong Siopah bears S. by E. A E., distant 11 miles; northward and westward of the reef there is no bottom at 60 fathoms. A chain of coral shoals on which the least water found was 3| fathoms, extends in a general N.W. ^ N. direction, 14 miles from Sigeb point, the north-east extreme of Siberiit ; between these shoals, which may sometimes be seen by the discolouration of the water, are clear passages 2 to 4 miles wide. The southern shoal on which there is a depth of 4| fathoms lies with Sigeb point bearing S.E. ^ E., distant 2^ miles. The next shoal in the chain has 3J fathoms water, and lies with Sigeb point, bearing S.E. ^ S. distant 6 miles; a patch of 5 fathoms lies 2 miles N.N.W. of it. The northern shoal, of 6 fathoms, lies with Sigeb point bearing about S.E. 1 S. distant 13^ miles. A patch of 5^ fathoms lies 2 miles S.E. from it. Directions. — Vessels approaching Siberiit strait from the westward will sight Pulo Bojo, nearly 400 feet high, with a lighthouse, the light from which is visible about 27 miles. The best channel is that between Pulo^- Bojo and Macassar reef, which is clear of all danger. Macassar reef is • nearly always to be seen by the breakers. The island should be passed at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, steering East until Ujong Sigeb bears S.S.E., when course may be shaped for the desired port. Or, passing southward of Macassar reef, the only dangers are those on the eastern part of the bank, the least depth on which is 3;^ fathoms at 6 miles off shore. The best course is along the north coast of Siberiit island distant from 2 to 3 miles, passing Ujong Sigeb the east point at about one mile, by this means the patches are avoided. In this track, anchorage may be taken anywhere in moderate depths, over sand, whilst northward of Macassar reef there is no anchorage, so- that for sailing vessels possibly meeting with light winds and an adverse tide, the southern track through the strait is to be recommended. MENTAWI ISLANDS, — Siberut Island (Great Fortune Island of the Dutch) is 56 mUes in length and from 15 to 24 miles in breadth. It is inhabited by a race of Malays named Mentawi. 'Siberiit island is high and wooded, with many sandy beaches along the coast, and on which there is usually a heavy surf breaking. 214 ISLANDS OPP THE WEST COAST OF SUMATBA. [chap. ni. Several small islands lie close to the coast on the eastern side, others inter- spersed with shoals, lie off the S.W. and south sides, the southernmost of the latter, named West island, is 10 miles off shore. There is an intricate channel between the islets off the south-west and south shores, with depths of from 16 to 20 fathoms, but it is inadvisable to attempt it. The west side of Siberut is unexplored. Seaflower Channel, formed between the islands off the south side of Siberut and Sipora, is named after H.M. brig Seaflower, Captain W. Owen, who passed through the channel in 1806, and who describes it to be clear of danger ; no soundings were obtained at 30 fathoms in passing through. As there is no anchorage ground in this channel, Siberut strait which has been partly surveyed, is to be preferred. SIFORA (Sikabu), one of the Mentawi islands, forms the south side of Seaflower channel, and between cape Tilleru, the north-east point, and cape Marlborough the south point, is about 27 miles long, from 4 to 10 miles broad, and distant from Sumatra 63 miles. The island is wooded and a little less elevated than Siberut. Hurlock bay, consisting of an outer and an inner bay, lies on the north side of "Sipora, and directly south of the small islands which front the shore. The outer bay has moderate depth for anchorage, with a soft bottom, but is open to N.E. winds. The inner bay is about one mile in diameter, with an entrance about half a mile in width, with depths of 4 to 7 fathoms. In entering the inner bay, the northern side of the channel should be kept, as a reef extends some distance from the south side of the entrance. There is shelter from all winds in the northern part of the bay, in depths of 8 or 10 fathoms, with 5 and 6 fathoms nearer the shore, which is a red sandy beach.* Se Uban bay. — The east coast of Sipora is generally steep, but rocks project a considerable way from the shore in some places, particu- larly to the southward of a round peaked hill named Turks Cap; from abreast of the Cap, soundings may be obtained along the coast towards cape Marlborough, which is bluff, moderately elevated, and fronted by rocks extepding 1^ miles ofE shore. In this space there are two con- siderable bays ; Se Uban bay, situated about 8 miles northward of Turks Cap, and Se Labba bay, at 2 milep northward of the cap. Se Uban bay is about 2 miles in length, and three-quarters of a mile wide in the entrance, and may be recognised by a considerable clump of trees standing on the northern point ; the course into it is S.W., and a vessel * See Sketch plans of Hurlock, Se Uban, and Se Labba bays, No. 866 ; scale »t = 1 ' 5 inches. WIAP.-III.J SBAPLOWER CHANNEL— PAGI ISLANDS. 216 should keep in mid-cJiaHnel, in from 24 to, 30 fathoms, to avoid, theiro*}^ projecting from the points on each side of the entrance. The best anchorage is in the south part, with tte sojitb point of the entrance.beai'ing about N.E., in depths of from 8 to 14 fathoms. As the plan is but asketchj the precaution of sounding around the vessel should, be. taken, for in somp p^rts thepe, are patches of coral rock. These is a brook of fresh watpr at the north-west part of the, bay.* Se Labba or Sikityi bay may be known by the Turks Cap hill close to the southward,, and which is seen from both sides of the island.* The bay is about one mile square, with reefs, extending from both points of en- trance, narrowing the channel to about half a mile. There is a large coral shoal, awash, near the middle of the bay, southward of which the bottpm is mud, and suitable for anchorage in depths, of from 10 to 20 fathoms. Supplies, — At either of these three bays, a vessel may be supplied with wood, water, a few, hogs, yams,, poultry, and cocoa-nuts, by the people of the few straggling villages on the east side of the island ; but the west side is said to be destitute of inhabitants. The W"est Coast of Sipora, is rocky, with some small islands adjoining, and the sea breaks high upon the shore. Two of these islands, about' 12 miles to the westward of cape Marlborough, lie^close to the shore, and near each other ; they are low and flat, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and rocky to seaward. Sipora Strait. — The channel between the south end of Sipbra and North Pagi island is about 12 miles broad, and considered to be safe. The islands are said to be connected by a coral ridge of from 20 to 40 fathoms ; on this ridge, which lies with Turks Cap in line with cape Marlborough, bearing N.W. by N., and at about 3 or 4 miles from Sipora, there is a bank of about 7 fethoms water, which should be avoided as less water may exist.j" The English vessel Dunleep Singh (1884) found depths of 22 fathoms, rapidly decreasing to 13 and 7^ fathoms, with the bottom plainly visible, but the actual positions of these soundings are not given. PAGI (Pageh) ISLANDS are together about 55 miles in length, separated by Sikakap strait. Both the islands are high, covered with large trees, and may be seen in clear weather about 40 miles. The inhabitants number about 1,500 and are simple and inofiensive. Cocoa-nuts and sago palm are cultivated. | North Pagi or North Nassau Island, is 20 miles long, and 14 miles in breadth. Simenaju road, situated near the north-east extreme of North 'fagr-islamJ,- iias-depthsfrom 5 to e-fathoms^ -mud^ a,t-»bout-hal£_a * See Sketch, gfans,. of .Hillock,. Se JJban, and Se Labba bays, No. 866 j scale m = 1"5 inches, t See Admiralty chartj— Sumatra west coast, sheet II., No. 2761. 216 ISLANDS OFF THE WEST COAST OE SUMATRA. [chap. iir. mile off shore. The village lies abreast the islet in the north part of the road.* Se Laubo Laubo.— On the west coast of North Pagi there is a group of islands, with a channel on either side of Pulo Laubo, the northern- most, leading to an anchorage between it and the main, where vessels may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, sheltered from all winds excepting those from the northward. The best channel to the anchorage is northward of the island, avoiding the reef extending some distance off it.f Silabu Jabu or Se Laubo Laubo village is situated on the side of a rivulet at the south-east side of the bay, where water may be procured. In northerly winds there appears, by the plan, to be sheltered anchorage in from 4 to 7 fathoms, southward of the Laubo islets and village. Batu Mongo, another village, lies near the south-west point of North Pagi island, on low land ; from thence to the south entrance of Sikakap strait the coast is rocky, and upon which the sea breaks heavily. Sikakap strait, formed between North and South Pagi islands, is about 7 miles in length in a north-east and south-west direction, and apparently less than half a mile broad in its narrowest part, with water sufficient for most vessels.f The passage from the south-west is between Pulo Tee Nussa and the Siopa islets, by keeping in mid-channel, and passing westward of Pulo Mashuchu and Bakot Pegu, where the depths are from 5 to 15 fathoms. There is a rock in the channel eastward of the latter islet, and a few others near the shore of the channel. Pulo Tongo in the eastern en- trance is nearly .joined by reefs to South Pagi island, the channel therefore, is northward of Tongo, where the water is deep. The tide runs strongly through the channel, as much as 3 knots at -times, but there is anchorage out of its force in the small bays on either side, and where the depths are regular. Pulo Tee Nussa (Serasso), at the south end of the strait, is separated from North Pagi by a channel, with from 5 to 10 feet water, fronting which there is a small island, having a rock upon it resembling a thatched house when viewed from the south-westward. The sea breaks with great violence upon the rock, and upon the low rocky shore to the westward. Sikakap river on the western shore, where fresh water may be procured, is opposite the north-west point of South Pagi ; the village of that name is several miles up the river : there is also fresh water under the high land at the south-east point of North Pagi. * See plan of Simeuaju road on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale, m = l-7 inches, t See plan of Se Laubo Laubo, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale, m = 1 • 5 inches. J See plan of Sikakap strait, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale, m = 0- 7 of an inch. CHAP. III.] SIKAKAP STRAIT — SANDION ISLAND. 217 The trees in Sikakap strait are cut into planks by the natives for the Padang and Beakuleu markets. These also make good spars, and are more conveniently obtained than in most places in these seas, the natives afEording every assistance. South Pagi or South Nassau Island, is about 37 miles long and 10 miles broad. Several small islands lie near the western and south-east sides. The sea coast of Pagi islands, in several places where the land is low, abounds with cocoa-nuts ; some small spots have been planted with pepper-vines. Belabuan Ju, or S.E. harbour, is formed by four small islands lying ofE the south-east coast of South Pagi, and is the only sheltered anchorage on this coast.* It is about 2 miles square, with depths of 6 to 14 fathoms. A reef extends nearly one mile from the main, at about the same distance southward of Pulo Singinging, the northern island. The channel between the two northern islets is nearly half a mile wide, with a depth of 10 fathoms. Belabuan Ju road apparently lies just northward of Pulo Singin- ging, with depths of 12 to 13 fathoms at about 3 cables off shore. The channel from the road to the harbour between Pulo Singinging and the land appears to be shallow.* A large reef lies about 3 miles north-eastward of Pulo Singinging. Between S.E. harbour and the east point of South Pagi, temporary anchorage may be taken off some of the small villages, where the depths appear to be moderate. Tides. — The tide among Sipora and Pagi islands rises from 3 to 5 feet at springs ; but currents often run with the prevailing winds. Suman and MongO islands, are situated 2 and 5 miles respectively south-eastward of S.E. harbour. Mongo is high, and a reef lies If miles S.E. of it. Sandion Island lies 14 miles south-eastward of South Pagi, and is low. A small round island, with trees, lies close to the east side of Sandion, on the reef which surrounds that island to the distance of one mile. A coral bank lies westward of Sandion, on which the Europa (in 1797) steering E.S.E. to pass southward of Sandion obtained soundings in 33 fathoms, soon shoaling to 4 fathoms; she then hauled off S.W. and deepened in half an hour to 65 fathoms, no bottom. When in 4 fathoms, the east point of Sandion bore E. by N. about 9 miles distant. * See plan of Belabuan Ju, or S.E. harbour, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale. = 0-76 of an inch ; also plan of the road, scale, m = 3 inches. 218 ISLANDS OFF THE "WEST COAST OF STIMAIHIA. [chap. nr. The David Scott, in 1 825, found 25 fathoms hard bottom, with the centre of Sandion bearing N.W. ^ N., distant 10 miles ; being nearly calm, a boat was sent to sound a distance of 2 or 3 cables from the vessel, and she found the same bottom. As other coral spots may probably exist in the vicinity of Sandion, it seems prudent to give this island a good berth on all sides.; The channel between, Sandion and, Sputh Pagi.„is reported safe. TRIESTE ISLAND, or PulO Mega, situated about 43 miles south-eastward of Sandion, may be seen about 15 miles. It is 3 miles long and surrounded by a reef ; a coral bank of 25 or 30 fathoms stretches 3 or 4 miles oif the north, east, and west sides of the island, where a vessel may anchor, if drifted near by the current during calm weather ; some fresh water maybe got upon the island in the rainy season. Its centre is in about lat. 4° 3' S., long-. 101° 4' E. ENG-ANO, (Telandyang) the southernmost of the large islands fronting the west coast of Sumatra, and distant from it 56 mUes, is 14 miles long, and 12 miles broad; it has a level appearance, and may be seen about 22 miles distant. The shore generally is rqlcky and bold, fronted by ledges on which the sea breaks, rendering landing impossible except in one or two places. Black , rock, 8 feet high, lies about one mile off the south point. Depths of 23 fathoms, rocky bottom, have been reported at 6 miles southward of tjie island, with shoaler water nearer the shore. The existence of this shoal water is somewhat doubtful, but as no soundings are shown on the chart it is advisable to give its assigned position a wide berth. The north side is clear. The south-east point of the island is assumed to be in lat. 5° 30' S., long. 102° 20' B. EuganO bay, on the east side of the island has in its entrance four small islands surrounded by reefs ; the bay affords anchorage over sandy bottom and shelter from most winds.* North island is covered with trees, and, excepting a small opening on the west side, is; surrounded by a coral reef of considerable extent, partly dry at low water, but having deep water close to. South island, distant 3 miles from North island, is also covered with trees, and surrounded by a reef> excepting the western side, which has a sandy beach bold to approach. South island is connected ' with the south-east point of the bay by a coral reef which skirts the soulii and west shores of Engano island as far as the north point;- ' •^'■~<' Middle island is conspicuous from the sea, having a high ^ndybeach, with a tuft of trees on the centre. A reef extends from this island to the * See plan of Engano bay on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale, m = ff-3 inch. CHAP. HI.] TBIESTE ISLAND — ENGANO ISLAND. 219 southward and eastward, but it is bolder to approach on the north and west sides. Sandy island lying northward at less than half a mile from Middle island, is not more than 6 feet high, and a reef projects both eastward and westward; on the north side it is bold, with 8 fathoms close-to. The channel leading into Engamo bay is between North and South islands, and has from 14 to 18 fathoms coral in mid-channel ; thence by one of the following passages to the anchorage off the -village. The passage westward of Sandy island is narrow, though safe, the reefs being steep to on both sides, with 10 and 11 fathoms water in the channel. The passage between Sandy and Middle islands is still narrower, with 1 1 fathoms water, and equally safe. The passage between Middle and South islabds has 16 and 17 fathoms water, and is also safe, by keeping near to South island until it bears N.E., thence steering for the village. The passage between North island and the main should not be attempted, as the passage is very narrow. Landing is difficult in most parts of the bay. AucllOrage. — Outside of Middle and Sandy islands there is shelter from the prevailing winds in either monsoon, in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand, good anchorage ; and plenty of wood may be got from either of the outer islands. Also a vessel may anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms, sand and. mud, about one mile off the village, keeping nearest the south shore, which has in most places a sandy beach, bold to approach, the trees growing quite into the water in some parts. Supplies. — Northward of the village, situated at the head of the bay, there is a small stream of fresh water, the only place where water can be procured. The island abounds with good timber, fish, yams and cocoanuts, but the natives are reported to be treacherous, and caution must be used in dealing with them. Barhao anchorage- — A little westward of the north point of Bngano island is the anchorage of Barhao, a narrow inlet in the frin^g reef, extending east and west nearly 8 cables, and having in mid-channel a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms, except near the head where there are shoal patches.* * See plan of Barbae anchorage on Admiralty chart, No. 2,761 ; scale, m — S inches. 220 CHAPTER IV. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PASSAGES ROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO SUNDA STBAIT, AND THE CHINA SEA ; WITH A DESCRIPTION OP SUNDA STRAIT, AND THE OPP-LTING ISLANDS. At all seasons of the year it is usual for vessels bound from Europe to Batavia, Singapore, Bangkok, Saigon, Sarawak, or Labuan, after rounding the Cape of Good Hope to steer as directed at page 222 for Java head, and to pass through Sun da strait into the Java sea ; and, with the exception of those bound to Batavia to enter the China sea by either Banka, Caspar, or Carimata straits. The route by Sunda strait and the China sea is also the direct and or- dinary one for vessels bound to China and Manila ; but those which pass St. Paul island between the middle of September and the middle of January, when the north-east monsoon is blowing in the China sea — especially those bound to Shanghai or other northern ports either in China or Japan — generally proceed by some of the channels eastward of Java, and enter the Pacific ocean by Macassar strait, the Molucca or Gillolo passages, or by Dampier strait, which are recommended as the most eligible routes at this season ; whilst other vessels during this period enter the Java sea by Sunda strait, and then proceed by some of the channels eastward of Borneo. It is not, however, an uncommon practice for fast sailing vessels bound to China to proceed through Sunda strait and beat up the China sea against the north-east monsoon ; in weighing the advantages of the two routes, it should be borne in mind that the Eastern passages are but imperfectly known, whereas the hydrography of the China sea has been much improved by the several British and Dutch Admiralty surveys. Banka strait possesses unquestionable advantages over those of Gaspar and Carimata, and is without doubt the best and safest route into the China sea. It was carefully surveyed in 1859 by Messrs. Stanton and Reed, Masters E.N. in H.M. surveying vessel Haracen, and subsequently by Lieutenant Keuchanius, in H.N.M. surveying vessel Pylades. Banka strait, although of much greater length, and not so direct for vessels bound to China as G-aspar strait, yet it is manifestly supei'ior, being easy and safe of approach ; affording convenient anchorage in every CHAP. IV.] PASSAGES. 221 part, which enables vessels to avail themselves of favourable winds and tides, and leading into a part of the China sea free from danger. Gaspar strait (though recently surveyed with Carimata strait), on the contrary, is difficult and dangerous of approach, rocks and shoals extending for 35 miles to the southward ; the depths of water are too great to afford convenient anchorage ; and it conducts into a part of the China sea, containing many dangers, amongst which vessels are liable to be set by uncertain currents. For vessels proceeding to Singapore, Banka strait should therefore be preferred, and it has in fact become the recognised highway of the trade passing between Sunda strait or Batavia, and Singapore. In order to facilitate its safe navigation, the Dutch have established lights and light vessels, so that vessels may pass through at night with ease and safety. But for ships bound to China, Gaspar strait being shorter and more direct, is still preferred, and will no doubt continue to be by many navigators, especially those who are anxious to make quick passages, even at the expense of incurring additional risk. It is certain that a vessel arriving off the entrance of Banka or Gaspar strait in the morning, and favoured with a fair commanding breeze, would gain some advantage in point of time by passing through the latter ; but in calms and light airs, or against the north-east monsoon, there is good reason to believe that vessels will make quick, and often quicker passages, by proceeding through Banka strait, carefully attending to the directions given in Chapter VI. ; and thev will always be assured of much greater safety. In thick or bad weather it is possible to proceed through Banka strait without risk ; but Gaspar strait can never be approached at such times without incurring considerable danger. Vessels bound to Singapore, and having passed through Banka strait, may proceed either eastward of Linga and Bentan islands, and making Horsburgh lighthouse, enter Singapore strait from the eastward; or passing between Linga and Bentan, proceed through Rhio strait into Singapore strait ; or they may proceed inside Linga, through Varella, and Durian straits, and passing Raffles lighthouse, enter Singapore strait from the westward. The first of these passages is known as the Outer route, the second as the Middle route, and the third as the Inner route. The Middle route, by Rhio strait, is the one now generally adopted, being safe, sheltered, and easily navigable, the Dutch Government having placed beacons on many of the dangers ; whereas the route outside Bentan is exposed in both monsoons, and there are many out-lying rocks and shoals, which render it necessary for vessels to keep at a great distance from the land. The Inner route by Vareila, and Durian straits, is adopted when the north-east monsoon is blowing strong in the China sea, at which time 222 PASSAGES. [CHAP. IV. vessels may proceed by it speedily and comfortably, instead of beating about outside^ against a heavy sea and 'an adverse current. . .j' For passages in the China sea, north of Singapore, see Vol. II. Suuda Strait to Red Sea in S.W. monsoon.— Sunda strait at this season affords a shorter route than Malacca strait for steam tea clippers and others from the northern ports of China. Having cleared Sunda strait, edge away into about 8° S., keeping in that parallel to Diego "Garcia, where coal may, if necessary, be obtained. From thence cross the meridian of 60° E. in about 5° S., and the equator in about 55° E. ; thence to Ras Asir {see p. 9). By this route a fresh fair wind is carried the whole way, whereas by Malacca strait route a vessel meets the whole strength of the S.W. monsoon. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO SUNDA STRAIT. WINDS in the INDIAN OCEAN,*— The south-east trade wind which in the Indian ocean extends from the west coast of Australia to within a few degrees of Madagascar, will be found between the parallels of 4° and 25° South, from April to September, and between 10° and 30° South, from November to March. To the southward of this trade, as far as 60° or 70° S., the prevailing winds are westerly, which will be found with more or less force and irregularity at all seasons. The Monsoons southward of the equator blow from S.E. from the middle of April till the middle of September, and from N.W. varying to W.S.W. from October to March. These monsoons extend from near the African coast far into the Pacific ocean, and from the equator to the parallel of 8° or 9° S., and near Australia, to 12° or 14° S. The South-east Monsoon, which is the period of fine season, may be considered an extension of the south-east trade, blowing within three or four degrees of the equator when the sun is near the northern tropic, and receding to 10° or 11° S. when the sun is near the southern tropic. The North-west or westerly Monsoon is subject to many irregularities, with occasional heavy gales, thunder, lightning, and rain ; it sometimes does not set in before November or December, rarely blowing with regularity and strength except in December and January, when it occupies a space comprised between lat. 10° or ] 2° S., and 2° or 3° N. DIRECTIONS.t— On leaving the Cape of Good Hope steer boldly to the southward, so as to run down the easting in lat. 39° or 40° S., where * See Admiralty Wind and Current charts for the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans, 1875. t See Admiralty charts: — Indian ocean, No. 2,483; scale, m = 0-2 of an inch- Indian ocean, sheets I. and II., Nos. 748a and 7486; scales, m = 0-5 of an inch; also Ice chart of Southern Hemisphere, No. 1,241. CHAP.iv.] CAPE OP GOOD HOPE TO STJNDA. STBAIT. 223 the wind blows almost constantly from some western point, and seldom' with more strength than will admit of carrying full sail ; Whereas in A higher latitude the weather is frequently boisterous and sWmy, with sudden changes of wind.* In the South-east Monsoon, that is from the middle of ApriL< to the middle of September, vessels, having passed St. Paul island, should not edge away too quickly to the northward^ but should endeavour to reach first as far to the eastward into the south-east trade wind as the meridian of Java head, crossing the southern tropic in about 102° E. In this season a westerly current runs along the. south coast of Java, and in the months of June, July, and August, when it is at its greatest strength, it will be indispensable to be well to the eastward, or otherwise the vessel will be liable to fall to leeward of Java head. In the vicinity of Java the south-east monsoon also veers sometimes to East or E.N.E. In the North-west Monsoon, that is from the middle of October to the middle of March, but especially in December and January, the southern tropic should be crossed several degrees to the westward of the meridian of Java head, when a direct course can be steered for Sunda strait, or to make Engano island, or the land about Flat cape, the southern extreme of Sumatra. Great care must be taken during this monsoon nofr to fall to leeward (eastward) of Java head, for the westerly winds blow with great violence along the south coast of Java, and their strength, united with the strong current setting to the eastward, make it imprac- ticable to work to windward along this coast ; a vessel may thus have to steer to the southward, and re-enter the south-east trade, in order to make sufficient westing to fetch Flat cape. When nearly on the parallel of Java head, and . one or two degrees to the westward of it, a direct course may be steered for the strait, with an allowance for a probable current setting to the southward. If contrary winds be met with shortly after leaving St. Paul island, in- November, December, or January, a vessel may steer at once to the northward, and cross the tropic in 80° or 90° E., when she will meet with westerly winds to carry her to Sunda strait. Changing of the Monsoons. — During the periods when these changes occur, thaf is from about the middle of September to the end of October, and from about the middle of March to the end of April, the winds are variable and uncertain. It is advisable at those times to make sufficient easting in the south-east trade, to bring .Java head nearly North * Some navigators prefer making their easting in a higher latitude than 39° or 40° S. whilst others steer a more direct course for Java head than is here recommended : but the above direotions are those usually followed in H.M. ships, and are generally believed to be the best. 224 KEELING OR COCOS ISLANDS. [chap. iv. and then to steer direct for it, borrowing a little to the eastward or westward, when it is approached, as may be required by the prevailing wind or other circumstances. Sunda strait to Cape of Good Hope.— In S.E. monsoon period the track from Sunda strait is direct, but the reported position of Glendinning shoal, northward of Keeling islands, should be avoided. In N.W. monsoon period, stand to the southward (westward of Christmas island if the wind permits), into the S.E. trade, then direct. .THE KEELING OR COCOS ISLANDS are situated about 600 miles in a S.W. by W. direction from Java head, nearly in the direct route of homeward bound vessels vid the Cape of Good Hope. They are in two distinct divisions, lying north and south of each other, having a channelbetween them about 15 miles wide.* The west point of Direction island, at the north-east extreme of South Keeling, is in about lat. 12° 6' S., long, about 96° 53' E. These islands were discovered in 1608, by Captain William Keeling in the service of the East India Company, but were little known previous to the visit of Captain J. Clunies Ross of the ship Borneo, who partially refitted his ship here in 1825. Captain Ross returned to the islands in 1827 with some Scotch colonists, but found them occupied by Alexander Hare, who with a large number of Malay followers had arrived the same year. The two factions lived on bad terms with each other, and many of Ross' colonists left the place owing to its being already occupied, but eventually the Ross' influence became the stronger, and Hare deserted by his followers, left the islands. In 1836, the Keeliugs were visited by Captain Robert Fitzroy who surveyed the group, the chart of which appears to be still correct in its main features, but the head of the lagoon is shoaling. In 1857, Captain Stephen G-. Fremantle, in H.M.S. Juno, visited the Keelings and formally annexed them to the British Crown. In 1878 the islands were placed under the government of Ceylon. In 1886 they were transferred to the government of the Straits Settlements. South. Keeling. — The northern division consists of one island only, whilst the southern division or South Keeling, numbering about 20, form a roughly broken circle nearly approaching the horse-shoe shape common to coral atolls. The two largest islands of this southern group, named Selima and Ross, are about 6 miles in length, and lie on the south-east * See Admiralty chart : — Cooos or Keeling islands, No. 2,510, scale, m = 2 inches. For an account of a Visit to the Cocos islands, see Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society for December 1879, page 777, and Report of the visit of Mr. E. B. Birch, of the Straits Settlements, in H.M.S. Espoir in 1885. f The London Gazette, 5th February 1886. CHA.P. IV.] KEELING OR COCOS ISLANDS. 225 and south-west sides of the group. New Selima, on which is the settle- ment, composed of the Cocos or Malay village, and also the Bantam village, lies on the north-east side of the group. Direction and Horsburgh islands are the northern islets, between which is the channel to port Refuge, available for vessels of 20 feet draught of water. Outside and nearly all round the group a natural barrier protects the lagoon, rendering it perfectly smooth inside. Seaward of this barrier, on which the sea breaks continually, there is a sudden slope into deep water. The greater portion of the lagoon, which is 9 miles in length, by about 6 in width, is filled with patches of growing coral, having deep water between, but it is only navigable by boats. The land is evidently rising and at some distant time will form a circular island, surrounded by a crater like edge ; at present the land is nowhere more than 20 feet above the sea. The tops of the cocoa-nut trees, with which the whole of the islands are covered, may be seen from a distance of about 16 miles. Population. — George Clunies Eoss, grandson of Captain J. C. Ross, is the present proprietor of the island ; five of his brothers also live on the island, most of whom have received their education at the Scotch Uni- versities. One of these is the doctor of the island, and another the captain of the trading schooner. In 1885, the population including the Ross' fami- lies, amounted to 195 males and 182 females ; Cocos-born and Bantamese, 76 males and 63 females; making a total of 516. Trade. — Supplies. — The exports are cocoa-nuts, copra, cocoa-nut oil ; beche-de-mer, and mongkudu (a bark used for dyeing purposes) amounting in value to about 22,000/. annually. The imports ai-e provisions of all kinds, clothes, cutlery, guns, and most other necessaries of life. Poultry is plentiful on the islands, and the lagoon abounds with fish. On Direction island are some deer, and there are a few sheep on Settlement island, but they are not for sale ; jungle fowl are found on most of the large islands. There are a few fruit trees, such as bananas, papaws, guavas, and figs ; pumpkins grow plentifully, but other vegetables are to be obtained only in small quantities. Water is plentiful and can be put on board at the charge of 1 shillings per ton. Vessels in distress can be assisted or hove down, and receive any repairs which are not of great magnitude. A vessel of 178 tons has been built on the island. Conununication. — Produce for the European market is called for once a year by a chartered vessel. Produce for Batavia is sent once a month by the family schooner, which returns with the necessary supplies for the islanders. One vessel from Australia annually, on an average, calls for water ; between the years 1874 and 1885, eighteen vessels touched for that purpose. U 2066.5. p 226 KEELING OR COCOS ISLANDS. [cfeip. rtr. Port Refuge, i" the northern portioii of the lagoon, affords good shelter from the sea for vessels of about 20 feet draught, in depths of from 4 to 5 fathoms, with the northern extreme of Direction island bearing E.N.E. With good daylight and a look-Out aloft to point out the shoals, vessels may go farther in nearer the settlement. H.M.S. Espoir in August 1885 found good anchorage in about 6\ fathoms, coral and sandy bottom, good holding ground, with the extremes of Direction island bearing E. | N. and N. by E. f E., and rode out some heaVy squalls whilst there. The entrance is from the northward, between Direction and Hors- burgh island; no bottom will be found with the hand lead until on the' line joining these islands. Southward of the anchorage already mentioned, on either side of Dymoke shoal, are passages leading to what are known as East and West harbours, but they could riot be taken unless first examined, or with local assistance. ■ ■ The channel into the lagoon between Horsburgh and Eoss or West island is too dangerous for a vessel to attempt. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at 5 h; 30 m., rise of tide about 5 feet, the flood letting into th'e harbour at the rate of \\ miles an hour. The current running past the islands to the north-westward, about 18 riiiles per day, is increased by' the flood stream ; with the ebb tide the current is counteracted, arid there is little or no stream. Winds. — Weather .^The' S.E. trade blows with more or less force all the year round, varying between South and E.N.E., and being strongest about August. The months of June, July, and August are the coolest and healthiest, the fresh breezes being accompanied by frequent rains. Sep- tember, October, and November are very dry months, the wind is variable, and beri-beri and diarrhcea are feared. December, January, and February, the cyclone period, are stormy, especially December, fine days being followed by ugly weather and vice versd ; thunder and lightning, with violent gusts of wind and heavy shbwers, causing much anxiety about the schooners and boats, and the cocoa-nut trees suffer to an appreciable extent. The weather experienced in March, April, and May, is riiuch the same as that of September to November, but not so dry, and sickness is not so much dreaded. The Keelings are not entii-ely free from cyclones ; in March 1861 one was experienced, a second, in 1863, devastated the islands, and another in January 1876, accompanied by a tidal wave, destroyed the Store houses, engine house and mills, and most of the dwellings, the corrugated roofs of some of them beirig carried away by the wind for several miles ; a slight earthquake accompanied it, causing a black fluid to arise in the southern portion of the lagoon, and which ovferspreadirig it, destroyed nearly all the fish and corals. The aneroid barometers fell as low as was possible, the merciirial was dashed against the wall and broken. CHAP. IV.] GLENDINNING- SHOAL. — CHRISTMAS ISLAND. 227 "'Tfie' average hfeight of tlie barometer is 29*90, varying about' ohe'tenth on either side of it. In the cyclone months it sometimes falls an inch. ,The temperature in the daytime ranges from 84° to 88°, the maximum being about February ; the lowest night temperature ranges from 77° -to 72°, the minimum being about August and September. North. Eeeling, situated 15 miles northward of -the Soath Keeling group, is one low island lying on a reef about one mile in diameter. The island is a strip of low coral surrounding a lagoon, and thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees. There is a small break in the island on the eastern side, but the passage is not available for entering the lagoon. The only landing is on the west or lee side of the island, and is not always practicable on account of the surf. North Keeling is looked upon as the sanatorium of the place. Cases of beri-beri are sent there and put under a course of mineral waters found on the island, and in which thay have great faith. ' A spit is said to extend about one mile northward of the island, and heavy rollers at times rise suddenly off the south point, making it dangerous to approach. Soundings extend for a distance of 5 miles S.S.W. of the island, and also it is said for 3 miles to the eastward. GLENDINNING SHOAL. — Captain Glendinning of the English barque Queen Mab, 1860, reports having passed a dangerous shoal situated about 130 miles N.N.E. (true-) from the Keeling or Cocos islands, in lat. 9° 54' S., long, 97°. 50' E. (approximate), and lying directly in the track of vessels from Sunda strait to the Cape of G-ood Hope during the south-east monsoon. Discd:Oured water was observed for a dist.ince of 10 miles, but 7'fathoms was the least water, obtained on passing the shoal. In- 1865 H.M.S. Serpent, Commander. C. Bi;illock, passed over this reported position. No indication of the existence of such, a shoal was found, and no bottom was obtained with-from 140 to 470 fathoms of line, over a space of 30 miles. CHRISTMAS ISLAND,' about 9' miles in length, and nearly square, is situated about 220 miles south of Java head, and nearly on the track of vessels proceeding to Sunda strait from the Cape of Good Hope in .the months of April • to September, and from Sunda strait in the opposite period.. It is covered with trees, principally limes and cocoa-nuts, the tops of which may be seen from a distance of 30 miles in clear weather. (Cap- tain G. Richardson of the Pigot, searched for the anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms, reported to lie off the noi'th end of the island, but found none ; ..twoj)f-his^hoatfi,wer.e employed sounding around theisland for a period of 2 days.) The island was found to be steep-to all round, with a depth of about 100 fathoms, at the distance of one cable from the shore. . The only practicable landing place is on a coral beach on the north-west side of the island. Wild hogs were seen by the. party who landed, but no ■B 2 228 APPKOACH TO STTNDA STRAIT. [chap.it. running water was discovered. The centre of tlie island is assumed to be in lat. 10° 31' S.,long. 105° 33' E.* JAVA HEAD,t the western extremity of Java, is a bluff pro- montory at the foot of high land, and is discernible at a considerable distance in clear weather. Caution. — When making Java head in hazy weather, the appearance of the land to the eastward of cape Sangian Sira, between it and Sodon point, bears much resemblance to the high land of the west point of Java, with the adjacent hills on Princes island; and the lowland in such cir- cumstances not being distinguishable at a distance, the position of it is often mistaken for the entrance to Princes channel. Cape Sangian Sira. — From Java head the coast trends S.E. by S. about 3^ miles to Palembaiig point, which is 2 miles northward of cape Sangian Sira the most southern point of this part of Java. From this cape, and 1 J miles to the southward, several rocks project, some of which are above water. The soundings are very deep close to these rocks, and along the shore as far as Java head there is no bottom with 100 fathoms ; but as the breakei-s which line the whole coast seem to indicate that there are rocks under water, it will be advisable to give the shore a berth of at least 2 miles in passing. Klapper (Breakers) Island, named by the Malays, Pulo Deli, lies 8 miles from the nearest shore of Java, and about 18 miles S.E. by E. I E. from cape Sangian Sira. It is low, covered with large trees (those along the beach being cocoa-nut), and is surrounded by a reef, which in many places stretches off a distance of one mile. On the north- west side there is a good watering place in the south-east monsoon, and boats can enter a stream through a channel with reefs on both sides. Vessels may anchor in 18 to 24 fathoms, clay bottom, 2 miles from the island, close to those reefs which partially dry at low water. The depths a,re from 30 to 40 fathoms at 4 miles off the south shore of the island. Trowers island (Pulo Tinjil), is nearly of the same circum- ference and outward appearance as Klapper island, from which it lies E. by N. distant 13 or 14 miles. This island is also surrounded by a reef. On the north, and west sides of this island there are from 13 to 19 fathoms water, and at the south-east, and south sides, at some distance, no bottom at HO and 100 fathoms. A rock is reported to exist at one mile northward of the island, and on which native craft have sometimes struck. * See Admiralty chart : — Indian ocean, northern portion, No. 7485. ; scale, (i=0'5 of an inch. t See Admiralty charts: — Snnda strait, No. 2,056; scale, m = 0-3 of an inch; and Bastern Archipelago, western ponion, No 941a; scale, m = 2-75 inches. CHAP. IV.] JAVA HEAD. — SUNDA STRAIT. 229 Between Trowers island and Sangian Sira there is no shelter from S.W. and S.E. gales ; also rocks in some places lie 1 J and 2 miles off shore ; eastwai-d of Sodon point, a patch of 2^ fathoms lies 1^ miles off shore. SUNDA STRAIT. Variation 2° 0' E. in 1886. GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— Sunda strait, through which passes a large portion of the trade of China, as also most of the trade of Batavia, Singapore, and other ports in the Java and China seas, separates the large islands of Java and Sumatra. Between cape Sangian Sira the most southern part of the western extreme of Java, and Flat cape the southern extremity of Sumatra, which forms the western limit of the strait, the distance is 68 miles, in a N.W. ^ N., and S.E. ^ S. direction ; and from the western, to the eastern limit of the strait, which lies between St. Nicholas point the northern extreme of Java, and the opposite coast of Sumatra, the distance is 74 miles ; the general direction of the track for ^hipping being about N.E. and S.W. The narrowest part of the strait is at its north-east end, where the distance between Fourth point in Java, and Hog point in Sumatra, is but 13 miles. This part of the strait is divided into two channels, each about 4 miles wide, by Thwart-way island, which, no doubt, received its name from the circumstance of its lying right in the middle or fairway of the narrowest part of the strait. In the strait are several islands forming different channels, by which it may be entered from the westward ; but Princes channel and Great channel, both on the south side, are those most commonly used. The Great channel is limited on the north side by the conspicuous Krakatoa island, between which and the coast of Sumatra are three channels, formed by Sebesi (Bezee,) and Sebiiko islands, all now very dangerous and should be avoided.* VOLCANIC ERUPTION.— The volcano of Krakatoa island was in eruption in the year 1680, and although included within the cate- goiy of active volcanoes it remained in a state of comparative inactivity for upwards of 200 years. In the year 1883, on May 20Lh, the volcano burst into eruption, accom ■ panied by earthquakes, which were severely felt at Batavia, and at the some time vast showers of pumice and ashes were projected to a great distance. This eruption was observed from the Imperial German ship Elizabeth, and on the following day, when 100 miles from Krakatoa, a * See Admiralty charts : — Sunda strait, No. 2,056 ; scale, m = 0'3 of an inch; and Sumatra Island, sheet II., No. 2,761 ; scale, m = 0- 1 of an inch. 230 STTiTD A' STRAIT. fbHAP. iV. ^Mwfer df dttst was eXperieiiced'wMch was estififlated td beteotoca layiev one inch in thickness in 24 hours, and duSt Was observed to be etill felling when the vessel had gained a position 300 miles south-west of Suuda sttfait. On 26th August 1883, Krakatoa again burst into eruption, and of such a terrible nature that miles of coast on both sides of the strait were wholly devastated, and multitudes of people perished. On the 27th August, a succession of earthquake waves swept the shores of the strait, utterly destroying the towns of Anjer, Merak, Tyringin and Telok Betung, ftogfether with 'some of the lighthouses on ■ both shores. This remarkable -distuAance of the sea made itself felt in various partsiof the world upon the 'Same date, notaibly in Australia and Southern Afrieaj alsofat 'Karachi in India. The vast amount 'of pumice which 'lay upon, the surface of the sea, in some places many feet in thickness, gave an appearance as if theiocean-bed had appeared above water. The changes- in the locality, resulting from the eruption, are partly defined ■ by surveys executed- by the- Netherlands - Government surveying vessel IlydrOffraaf, 1883-5, but it is advisable to take -every precaution when navigating near the shorejor coming to an anchor. Winds. — In Sunda strait' the wind varies from S.SiE. toE.S.B. during the south-east monsoon, April to October ; and from W;N.W. toN.W. in the north-west monsoon, with intervals of calm. . i -; In the northern approach to Sunda strait, during- the south-east monsoon period, a N.E. -wind will sometimes blow for weeks, usually iu the fore- noon, rendering it advisable to anchor under the Java shore when the tide is adverse. Tides.— CurrentS.^In the- narrow part of Sunda strait the tides are greatly influenced by the winds in the Indian' ocean and the Java sea, «nd frequently resemble currents more than regular tides. It is high water, full and change,iin westerly monsoon, at 6 a.m. rise at springs 3 feet. - • During the south-east monsoon, iu Anjer road, the ebb often sets to the ■westward from one to 2 miles an hour, continuing to run sometimes about 14 hours, with a slack or flood of 6 hours ; off Thwart- way and Button islands it often runs 14 hours at a time to the south-west, from 2 to 3i miles an hour, then changes and sets to the north-westward and northward but with much less velocity. At other times the ebb sets for about 6 hours to the south-west, and the flood for about the same time to the north-eivst with nearly equal velocity, about 3 or 3^ miles an hour at springs.* On the south-east coast of Sumatra, in this monsoon, there is seldom any north-east or flood-stream, and it never exceeds one mile an hour, but the ebb is increased by the prevailing current running south-westward. During the westerly monsoon, between Java and Thwartway, the tide has also been found to run 3 or 3i miles an hour when at its greatest * See foot-note, page 231. GHAT. IT.] (iENEEAL aSMAEES.- — arjaEiS.-rrHIUEEENTS. 231 afcretigthy the ebb S tours to the south-west, and the-floodltthe same .length of time to the north-east; but this flood stream seems to .be of rare ocourrenceji'as, — observations ilakeniat anchor 6 miles west ofrTyringen, ako between Button island and St. MchoJaS's point, during the i westerly monsoon period ■ (March) gave a current from 2 to 4 miles an hour, ivarying in directions from S.S.E. to S.W; There was no northerly set for the four -days during which these observations were made. The master of the English barque Bow/ell, October 1884, also states, "that from Fourth ^*^point'to St. 'Nicholas 'the current- both < inshore and in the fairway runs '* to the south-west,' -and accorddiig to his pilot's account there is ao "' north-east-stream. At dsregular timesi it slacks, and, then- starts again " 'about-W.NvW.i turnipg to S.Wv and S.S.Wi at times as much, as 2^ or i«-3 knots an hour, and off St. Nicholas pointifrom 3^ to:4 knots»"f Elood and ebb streams run on the Sumatra side' of the strait when the ■monsoon in strong, s(DecemlDer to February), principally northward of , the Zutphen islands-; but the flood apparently has never much strength. From -and westward of those islands a current sets off towards the middle of the strait, and to the south-westward, at the rate of 2 to 3 mUes an hour.f SOUTH SHOEE, PRINCES ISLAND, or PulO Panaitan, separated fromthe west end of Java by Princes - channel, is the largest island in Sunda strsfit. '■ Its greatest length, between the west' , and north-east points, is '12" mUeSj and its breadth about 8 miles. . It is of an irregular form, prci- jeeting to a point on the north-east side, and having a large bay on the south-west side, the boras of .which form the, westand south points of the island. The • middle and •■ eastern parts of the. island are hilly, the highest peak, 1,450- feet' above the level of the ,sea, being on the eastern shore ; but in- some parts, particularly at the west end, the land is level and low fronting the sea ; all parts of the island, abound in wood. The west point of '.PriBces island is. fronted, by a reef to. the distance of about 1^ milesj several rocks of which are seen above water; on the north- west, and north sides, the island is steep-to close to the fringe of reef which edges those shores. A fringe of reef extends from the north-east point of the island, and along the shore on each side. A similar fringe extends about a third of a mile off the south-east point of the island ; nearly 2 miles W.S.W. of * Some observations' by the Netherlands surveying vessel Mlommendal, 1886, appear to confirm the statement that the set of the stream is mainly south-westward, during the greater part of the year. + Id February and March a current of 4 to 4^ miles an hour sets sometimes in among Zutphen islands to the W.S.W., or round them towards Bog point, which requires great caution in vessels passing those islands. Horsburgh. 232 STJNDA STKAIT. — SOUTH SHORE. [chap. iv. which, close in shore, and near a conspicuous White rock, is a coral reef, upon which the sea is always breaking. Carpenter Rocks are a group about one mile in extent, projecting from the south point of Princes island. Most of the rocks are above water, and the sea is usually breaking over them. Th Dre is no bottom at 50 fathoms a short distance from these rocks. CaSUaris bay, on tbe south-west side of the ifiland, is 4 miles deep, and has at its entrance soundings varying from 30 to 50 fathoms, decreasing inside to a convenient depth for anchoring ; but be'ng open to all winds between west and south, it is not frequented, and cannot be recommended. W^ater, — According to Horsburgh, a vessel in want of water may anchor on the eastern side of this island in 35 fathoms, soft ground, about half a mile from the shore, with the peaked hill bearing about N.W. by N., and fresh water may be obtained here from a stream in the eastern part of a small sandy bay, where the casks must be filled at about 1 00 yards up, the higher the better, otherwise the water will be brackish. It is, however, only in the north-west monsoon that water can be procured here, for in the south-east monsoon all the springs are dry from want of rain, and there is, moreover, no safe anchorage in this monsoon along the east side of the island, as it is a dead lee shore. PRINCES CHANNEL, between Carpenter rocks off the south end of Princes island, and Friars rocks off First point of Java, is 3 miles broad at its narrowest part, and possesses the great advantage of affording anchorage to vessels when becalmed, which Great channel does not. Light baffling winds and calms are very common about the entrances to Sunda strait, occurring even in the strength of the south-east monsoon, and vessels when not able to anchor are liable to be set back by adverse currents. The depths in this channel are much greater on the Princes island, than on the Java shore. Close to Carpenter rocks there is no bottom at 50 fathoms ; with Peaked hill, on the south-east part of the island, bearing from N". by W. to W. by N., there are 10 to 30 fathoms, coarse sand, shells, and coral, little more than one cable distant off shore; with the same hill bearing from N.N".W. to S.W. there are 36 to 44 fathoms at about one mile from the shore. Towards Mew bay, on the Java shore, the depths decrease to 20 fathoms and less. DIRECTIONS. — In the south-east monsoon, when proceeding either way through Princes channel keep closer to the Java coast than to Princes island. In the north-west monsoon it often happens that vessels bound out of the strait, get quickly to the westward by proceeding through Princes channel, while those using Great channel are detained by heavy squalls and adverse currents. Indeed, instances have occurred in which vessels have worked through this passage in a remarkably short time during a westerly CHAP.iv.j PRINCES ISLAND AND CHANNELS. 233 gale, by carrying a heavy press of sail, and tacking between the squalls, ■when it was impossible for any vessel in Great channel to beat against the current and heavy sea. Proceeding through Princes channel in this monsoon, keep near Princes island and Carpenter rocks, especially when working out against westerly winds, for a current will then sometimes be found setting to the westward. It is, moreover, very important to keep close to Carpenter rocks when working out, to avoid being set upon the rocks near Java head and Palembang point by the heavy swell, for being once outside anchoring ground, and in a calm, a vessel would have much trouble to clear the coast X)f Java. The south-east coast of Princes island must not, however, be approached within one mile. GREAT CHANNEL lies between the north point of Princes island and the south point of Krakatoa island, which are 23 miles apart ; and although too deep for anchorage, it is much frequented, being the widest passage into the strait, and is considered to be clear of danger. As far as at present ascertained, the eruption of Krakatoa has not affected the navigation of this channel. If the strait be entered by this channel, keep Princes island aboard, and when farther in the strait keep on the Java shore. JAVA COAST. — First point. — The coast between Java head and First point forms a bight, and is fronted by high rocks stretching out a considerable distance in some places. First point, or Tanjong Along-ajang, the south point of entrance into Princes channel, has a conspicuous rock lying abreast of it, which rises abruptly out of the sea, and is steep-to. Close to the northward of First point there is another rock above water, which together with the former are named Friar rocks. LIGHT. — From a white stone lighthouse, 131 feet high, erected on First point, is exhibited at an elevation of 260 feet above high water a flashing white light, every half minute ; each flash being of six seconds duration, followed by an eclipse oi twenty-four seconds. The light is visible between the bearings of N. 17° W. through east, to ]!Q'. 84° W., (except when obscured by Princes island), and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 23 miles. Position, lat. 6° 441' g.^ ioiig_ iOo° 11^' E, Mew island, or Pulo Kanti, lying about 2 miles eastward from First point, is nearly 2 miles in extent north and south, and one mile east and west. The island is hilly, and abounds with wood. Between it and First point, and close in -shore, is the Mew stone, a small rock above water. The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew island, but safe to approach ; the soundings decrease gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms. Between Mew island and the main there is a narrow but safe channel, with depths from 10 to 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. When taking this passage, keep close over towards Mew island, to avoid Watson bank, 234 STJNDA STEAIT. — SOUTH ;SHORE. [ohap. iv. whiok lies near the Java shore. . Sometimes the sea breaks i upon this bank.* "Water. — To the eastward of Mew island, on the Java shore^ there-is a good watering place in the south-east monsoon; the water is excellent, and is poured by a cataract upon the beaich. . Large boats may approach this spot at high water through a narrow channel in the reef, and fill the casks by a hose ; at low water they will require.a great length of hose to reach the boats. A little to -the northward, i of the watering place, and about half a mile from the Java shore, lies a coral reef about, a cable, in extent, i tUpon its shoalest part there is one fathom water, and; all round from 5 to 6 fathoms^ A vessel standing in for the watering place, must steer between this. reef and the island, and anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms. , . , . In the south-east monsoon there is also a good anchorage a little farther out, with the north point of Mew island bearing about W. ^ S.,, and the east point S. by.W., in 16 to 19 fathoms water, sandy bottom. „ • Plenty of wood maybe obtained from Mew island or. the main land. Tides. — lit is high water, full and change, at Mew bay at about 6h., - Second Point, or Tanjong Gukulang, consists of <& low foreland somewhat broad in appearance, the western extremity of which lies about N.E. by E., nearly 9 mUes distant from First point, and its northern extremity, which is usually known as Second point, about 3 miles farther to the north-eastward. It may be approached without danger to the distance of one or even half a mile, and in from 26 to 20 fathoms water, the reefs projecting but a little way off shore. From Mew island towards Second point, reefs project half a cable from the shore, having from 5 to 6 fathoms water close to, which increases rapidly to 10 and 20 fathoms ; with due care and attention to the lead, a vessel may approach the shore in order to anchor. Sometimes native, craft may be met, having turtle, fowls, and cocoa-nuts for sale. . WELCOME BAY.— At a distance of 20 miles N.E. by E. from Second point is Third point,, and between is a deep bight, named Welcome bay, which in the south-east monsoon afEords good shelter, but should be avoided in the south-west monsoon. There is, however, good anchorage in the south-west monsoon, when the wind is not too northerly, south-east- ward of Second point in 9 or 10 fathoms water ; but this anchorage should be approached with great caution, as the soundings decrease very suddenly near Second point, and a shoal with 12 feet, water, and 6 fathoms close-to, extends half a mile off shore between Second and Tambing points. The west side of the bay trends from Second point about S.S.E. ■^ E. 11 miles, about the middle of which the beach forms a small bight, with * See Admiralty plan of Mew bay, scale, m = 1-5 inches, on chart of Sunda strait, Ko. 2,056.