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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I / J. ffitua/m ^/noU. \ \ ,„ i--' I I \ \>t , I / ^ \ \ /-■ X / J. .-\ ) I ■ / J ^ ' 'X \ V 1^ _L I < \ r I' r r CRU'ISE or THB UNITED STATES FRIGATE POTOMAC t ROUND THE WORLD, DUBIXG THE YEARS 1881-84. aVBRACINO THB ATTACK ON QTTALLAH BATTOO, WITH NOTICES OF SCBNBS, MANNEBSy ETC., IN DIFFERENT FARTS OF ASIA, SOUTH AMERICA, AND TH^ ISLANDS OF THB PACIFIC. Embtllithtd with EbgraTiag*. BT FRANCIS WARRINER, A. M. \ ■ ■ ' ■ 1 NEW-YORK : PUBLISHED BY LEAVITT, LORD & ,00. 182 Broadway. '* . - BOSTON : CROCKER & BREWSTER, 47 Washington-Btreet 1835. V T"D llEW YORK PUBLIC UBRARY 272793 A AfiTOK, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIOKS H 1926 L Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 183S, by FftAHCis Wabbinbb, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New-Tork. * W • § 'i «i 4" r V > P ' •• ti PREFACE. A MULTITUDE of interesting objects will of neces- I sity have presented themselves to a voyager in a three ^ years' cruise ; especially in a government ship, cir- fumnavigating the globe. Tet when all the materials I had collected were placed before me with a view to I their publication, I was not a little surprised at the V amount : and indeed, it was no small task to compress within a moderate compass all the things which seem- ed necessary to be mentioned. Particular passages i in thi$ volume have already appeared in the journals f of this country, under the form of letters and extracts. ^ These, however, constitute but an inconsiderable por* tion of the work ; and they hav^ also, on a careful iBvision, received some important amendments. The design of the author has been to give simple ^d correct representations of facts and scenes, with- 4 PREFACE. out distortion or embellishment. He has Ae sati^sfac- tion of believing that, whatever imperfections may chance to be discovered in the execution of the work, no important errors can have crept into his state- ments ; as he has not ventured upon the description of any scene in detail, without having had recourse to materials, which had been previously collected by him upon the spot. Niw-YoBs, January 1835. CONTENTS. CHAPTiai P<^S^9 Departure for New- York— Reflections — First Visit to the Potomac — ]\ew8 of the outrage on the shin Friendship— Memorial to Govem- ment reBj[)(ectin^ the Malays — Cnange of the destination of the Poto- mac — Disappomtment in consequenee — ^Departure of the ship — Storm at sea— A man reported overboard — ^Taking of sharks — ^Arrival at the Cape de Verde islands — Remarks concerning them — ^Departure — A sail in sight — Suspicions respecting her — Chase commenced— Dolphins. ChaptebII; 19 Bio de Janeiro-^Scener^— Ships of foreign nations>-4)on Pedro — State of the country— Notice of tne inhabitants — Slaves — City prison — Public gardenS'^Houses-^^Market^Publio buildings — Museum — Academy of fine arts — ^Public library — Emperor's country palace — Praya urande— ^Chamber of Deputies — House of Lords— Burial of a child — Description of the churches — Fountains — Aqueducts — Social entertainments— Gloria hill. ChaptbbUI 36 Departure from BicH^Scenes at seanrTheatre on board ship--4Dther amusements— Reflections — ^Vessel in distress — Entrance to Table Bay — Arrival at Cape Town — Reception — Description of Cape Town — ^Its situation, institutions, &c. — Visit to Constantia — Rev. Dr. Phi- lip—Sir Lowry Cole-^Public library — Reception of company on board the ship*- Visit to Mr. Rutherford — >London, friends— Dr. Hewitt. ChaptebIV. 53 Scottish Highlanders— Their music — Public dinner eiven to the officers of the shi^— Sabbath at Cape Town— -Services at Dr. Philip's church —At the Dutch Reformed — At Dr. Adamson's— Departure from Cape Town— Reflections — Visit to the city prison — Character of the Hot- tentots — Missionary operations«-Testimony of a Hottentot in their &vor— Schools— Lonaon Missionary Society^— Dr. Philip— Interview with a Malay prisoner. CiiPTiB V 66 Dtpartore from Cape Town— Doubling the Cape— Preparations for tha attack on the Malays— Death on board— -Burial at sea— Reflection* «^Charaeter of seamen— St. Paul's island— Hog island— Sttmatra, 6 CONTENTS. CHArTSBTI i 76 Quallah Battoo — Geogrraphieal notice — ^Reiources— Productions— Forts — Shipping-— Arrival at the town — ^A boat sent ashore^-HoBtile ap- pearance of the natives— Betum of the boat — Malay fishermen — Taken prisoners— Preparations for the attack— Disembarkmeat — Reflections — ^Battle — ^Appearance of the town from the ship— Confla- gration— Boats— Flag of victory— Release of our Malay prisonera. Chaptse Vn 87 Particulars of the battle— Attack on the first fort — Second fort— General alarm — ^Flic^ht of the natives— Attack on the third fort — ^Defeat of the Malaya — General consternation — Burning of the town — Killed and wounded — Withdrawing of the forces — Spoils— General remarks- Visit to the ship by natives of Soo Soo— Burial of the slain. GHAPTBaVm 101 Po Adam—Former outrage of the Malays upoii the Friendship— Po Adam's wealth, and friendly disposition to the Americans— His losses in conseQuence— His reception on board the Potomac — ^Mohamme- dan fast-^Beatine to quarters— Its efieet upon Po— Cannonade at Quallah Battoo--White flags raised. ChaptsbIX Ul White flags— Visit of die officers at Soo Soo — ^Return witha chief— Flag of truce from Quallah Battoo— Peace established— Visits from peo- ple on the coa8t---George Bakers-King of Acheen— Festival at Qual- lah Battoo— Mohammedans— Pilgrimage to Mecca— Koran— A sick man— A Mohammedan priest Chapter X... 119 Soo Soo — Visit of delegates to the ship — ^Rajahs of Soo Soo— Conduct of one of them investigated— Brig Olive from Boston — Reflisal of water to the brig — Meditated attack—The difficulty settled — Fruits — ^Trade with the natives— Scenes on board ship — Character of the Malays— Climate. CHAPTsmXI 126 Dej^rture from Soo Soo — ^Religious services on board — Washington's birth day— Salute— A sick nnan— Island of Crockotoa— Departure firom the island — Straits of Sunda— Islands — ^Pangorinffan-^Ezcur- sion on shore— ^Incidents — ^Women— MJoiay children— Slen— Covet- ous dispositioi^— Navy buttona ChaptbbXII 133 Second excursion on shore — Monkeys— Ship Philip First— The Com- modore's excursion — ^Anxiety on board for his safety— His return to the ship— Fruits— Trade with the natives— Departure— Batavia roads — Chinese— Chawley Jangthay— Harbor of Batavia— -Chinese junks — ^River Jacatra — Cfhinese marriage procession— Mr. Forestier— French hotel — ^Ride into the country— Buitenzorg. ChaptsbXIII 145 Vint at Mr. Madhurst^a— Missionary operations«»MrK Medhurst— Ride into the ooontry— Scenenr— A!neoaot»— A rich planter assassi- nated by his slaves— Depok— Religious woaiaif^mmr school COMTBMTS. 7 Curr»BXlV Itt VMt At Mr. MedhuiWft— A rid&— Appeaimnce of tbe country— A Chi- OMs temple-*CeremoniQ8«-Mr. Sfeahurit addreiiea the people— Dii- tribution of tracts— Idol worihip-^Fire worahippera— PfeMog through the fire— Antiquity of the Chineae^Beflectione. ChaptkeXV 167 CSiineae of Batavia— Houaea— A Malay moaque— The town hoiiae — Fwrty at Mr. Medhurst'a— Character of the people of Batavia— Feaat of the tomba — Mode of burial — Sepulchrea — ^Malay pedlara — Chi- neee temples — ^Mode of worship— Theatrical performaneea— Tiait to the tomb of a diatinguiahed captain — ^Religioua eeremooiea — ^Dra- matic exhibition — ^Notiona of the Chineae reapecting their deceaasd relatives— Idol worahip— Inacription by Mr. Medhurst on their tem- ple— Character— Visit to a Chioeae temple — Miaaionaries. CiLLPTBBXyi 181 Departure from Batavia — Sickoeaa on board — ^Mr. Oliver, the Commo- aore's Secretary — ^His aicknesa, death, and burial — Subacription fttf the relief of hia family — ^Reflectiona — A man overboard — ^An Elngliah barque--rLadrone ialainds— Jimmy Thompao0| the pilot. ClULFTBB XVn 191 LintfO'-Sail up the river— lalanda — Forta — Afhir of the Aleeate — ^Pa- Sdas— Shipping—- Duck boata — Other boata — ^Arrival at Canton — r. Bridgman— -Commerce of China — First ahip sent to Canton from the Unit^ States— General remarka— Chinese shops— traders. ChaptbbXVIII 203 Leang Afa — Dinner party— Cultivation of tea— Proclamation from the ficppo— Departure fromCanton— Return to the ship-Chinese women — General remarka — Viait to Macao— Cave of Camoena— Departure for Lintin — Baahee islands. ChaptbbXIX 219 Arrival at the Sandwich islands — Oahu — Honolulu — ^Natiitts«*-Aoyal ii,mi iy — Entertainment^Miasionaries— Queen-regentF-Chiefs— JVa- tive worship— Sunday school — Entertainment on board ship— Din- ner party by the king— Interview with Gov. Adams— Council of the king and chiefs — Complaints against the missionaries— Government —Character of tbe native^Remarks. ChaptkbXX 243 Draarture from Oahu — Scenes on board ship— Krusenstern's island — lUiiti — ^Rev, Mr. Nott — ^Religious service — ^Native school — Fruits —Queen Pomare — ^Departure from Tahiti — Bible class on board-^ Man overboard — Coast of Chili — Harbor of Valparaiso. Chaptbb XX! 256 Valparaiso— Monte Aleg^re — ^Posada— Natives— Carts— Almendral— Parties on board — Chilian ladies — ^Buildings— Roads— Climate — Navy — Commodore Wooster — Burying grounds— State of the coun- try^Govemmen^— Institutions of learning. t/ / 8 CONTENTS. GbaptsbXXII *. 265 Departure from Valparaieo— Flogging on boards— St. Lorenzo— Har- bor of CallaO'— Salutee — Foreign ehip^^-Rumor reBpecting La Fu« ente — Ride into the country — Bella vista — Hospital — Ruins of old Gallao — ^New Callaop— Character of the inhabitants — Soldiers. Ghaptsb XXIII ,..., 275 Ride to Lima — ^Entrance to the cit^— Houses— French inn-— Character of the people — Monasteries — Friars — History of the city — Convent of St. Francis— Churches—Foundling Hospital-xlnstitutions of learn- ing — Revenue of Pfccu— State of the country — Holidays — Cathedml — Ghrand mass — ^BuU fight. CHAPTBRXXiy 295 Second visit to Callad — ^Religious meeting on board the Dolphin— Chaplains— Remarks concerning the navy*-Carnival— Washing- ton's birth-day — Visit from President GJamarra and lady— Departure from Callao— Island of Juan Fernandez — Arrival at Valparaiso — Mr. Penniman, his sickness, death, and burial— Passion week— Cer- emonies. Chapter XXV 305 Departure from Valparaiso — ^Port of Coquimbo — Whale rfiips— Visit to the city— Catholic procession-^Silver mill — Shock of an earth- quake — Quarantine — ^Whaling scene— Departure-^Arrival at Callao — Fruits — ^French brig— Rumor of an iusurreetion—^Celebration of Peruvian independence— Departure from Callao — Arrival at Payta-^ Rendezvous for whale ships — ^Face of the country — ^InhAbitants. CbaptbbXXVI 319 (Galapagos islands^Essex bay^-Landing at Black Beach-^Colony-^ Governor Villamil — Visit to an English resident — Excursion to Sad- dle point — ^Terrapins — ^Turtle doves — Departure for Guayaquil— Breejrers — Island of Puna — Catholic ceremonies— Guayaquil— Build- ings— Inhabitants — ^Pantheon — ^Visit to the ladies — General Florei^^ Rocafuerte. Cbapteb XXVII 335 Second visit to Payta— but in addition to this, we were to visit a race of barbarians, and be subject to sickly and inhospitable climes, the influence of which must necessarily shorten human life. The ship being ready for sea, with a first-rate crew of five hundred men, and appropriate stores, on the morn- ing of the twenty-fourth we weighed ancfhor an4 lefl New- York. When the pilot-boat left us, we sent our final farewells to our friends on shore. At such a moment, when the last hold on our country is sundered from us, the kinder feelings of the soul are awakened. Our friends become more than ever endeared to us, and every thing connected with theih wears an increasing interest. The Commodore paced the deck with agitation. There was a sadness on the countenances of many, and a little quiver- ing of the lip. To me, even the song of the men while heaving the lead, which under other circumstances might have been grateful music, had in it ^ dirge-like sound. Our native land was soon out of sight, and as we caught the last glimpse, it did not fail to call forth ** the voice of sorrow from the bursting heart." CATCHING A SHARK. 13 Oil the third day out there was erery appearance of an broaching gale, fiy the expertness.of those skilled in Baatical science, the ship was soon under snag and easy flail, and we waited for the spirit of the storm. An awfol stillness prevailed for a few moments, when we encoun* tered the discharge of the gathered tempest. The light- ning gleamed, the thunder pealed, the rain fell in torrents, but the ship . stood on her course, as though she heeded them not. A few of the landsmen were panic-struck, and would scarcely stir at the orders ^ the officers. Sea- sickness commenced, and but few escaped its prostrating influence. * On the sixteenth of September we boarded a French ship from Bordeaux, bound to Martinique, and sent letters by her to our friends. An incident occurred about this time, which afforded a little amusement. It was reported that a man had fallen overboard. There was a general rush to the spar deck — the ship was hove to — the boat was lowered — all was breathless anxiety — ^when the man proved to be a mere sailor's hammock ; but that there might not be too much waste of sensibility. Bruin, the bear, capering upon the shrouds of the vessel, broke his hold, and made a plunge into the briny waves, from which he was afterwards extricated with no small difficulty. The taking of a shark always produces considerable excitement on board ; and not long after the above men- tioned incident, I had an opportunity to observe the pro- cess. A large hook, baited with a piece of salt pork, and lowered into the water, is seizied by the voracious mon- 14 CRUTSE OF THE POTOMAC. 8ler, when a noo^e of a rope is thrown around the tail, by which means the sailors succeed in dragging up the prey, which comes floundering on deck, at the same time opening its wide jaws as if ready to devour every thing on board. The one we took measured ten feet in length, and furnished tbe sailors many a choice meal. Sharks frequently follow the track of a vessel for days together, and during a calm are often found in great numbers. On the twenty-fir^, we made the Cape deVerde islands, 80 called from a cape of the same name on the coast of Africa, near the river Gambia. St. Antonia came first In sight, with its top lost in the clouds ; and being the first land that we had made since leaving Amefica, every one was eager to catch a full view of it. It is a misnomer, surely, to call this a green cape : for to appearance it was nothing but a barren sd^tid waste* The next morning brought us in sight of Brava, said to be the most fertile of the group, and the safest and best place to call for refreshments. Accordingly we hove to, and ^nt a boat on shore for some fresh fruit and vegetables. Here the pros- pect was a little more cheering. There was, however, nothing of that luxuriance on the island, which we expect- ed to find in tropical climes. A little verdure on the sides and near the summit, upon which flocks of goats, and a small herd of cattle were grazing; some shrubbery and brushwood, with here and there an inferior looking cot- tage, a small plot of cultivated land, and a few naked precipices, were all that greeted oUr sight. Only two or THE CAPB.DE TERUE ISLANDfi. 15 tfcree inhabitants were to be seen. A strtdl of a few honn orer its hills would have afforded us an agreeable pastime. The boat returned, not being able to effect a landing, in eonsequenoe of the surf beating so high. We were some- what disappointed, as our appetites were well set for some rich fruit ; but we had an abundance of " salt junk and hard tac " on board, and with these we made friends for the time being. We were becalmed here during the day^ and a torrid sun pouring its full blaze upon us, rendered our stay quite uncomfortable. The island of Fogo, or San Felipe de Fuego, was visi- ble at a short distance from us, and from the apex of a cone on the mountain in the centre, we could distinctly discern the eruption of volcanic fire. Towards sunset a fine breeze sprung up, and our ship proudly stood off on her course. The Cape de Verde islands, discovered in 1460 by the Portuguese, and still subject to the crown of Portugal, form a group of about twenty in number, including those of the smallest size, which are unimportant. They for^ merly contained a population of about forty thousand, but at present are very sparsely inhabited. They are all more or less mountainous, with scarcely verdure enough upon them for the subsistence of the inhabitants and their cattle. The people, exiled as they are from the world, with most of the channels of communication cut off between them and other countries, are dependent chiefly for what- ever sustenance their own islands do not afford, upon ves- sels casoally stopping at them. The trade is generally 16 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. carried on by barter. From the time of their first dis- covery, they have been subject at intervals to severe drought and famine. The rain of heaven is often with- held for several years in succession, at which time all the sources of fertility are dried up, and the people and their cattle perish for want of food and water. It is not sur- prising therefore to learn, that after the visit of our ship, other mariners found every thing upon them scathed and scorched, and the inhabitants in a famishing state. This occurred in 1832, as will be recollected by our readers, when large donations were made in the city of New-York, and other parts of the United States, for their benefit ; with which provisions were purchased and sent them. On the third of October a sail was reported in sight. The spy-glasses were eagerly seized, and the maneuvers of the ship closely watched. As we were off the coast of Africa, we were suspicious that it was a slaver. Sometimes she appeared to be bearing down upon us, at others, standing from us under a full press of sail. All heads were instantly ordered down. Our ship was imme- diately disguised by running in the guns and closing the ports, and a chase was commenced. We kept on the pur- suit during the afternoon and night, and noticed that she tacked ship several times : from this circumstance, we thought it apparent that she wished to avoid us, and this excited our suspicions the more. We '' overhauled" her the next day, and she proved no piratical craft, but an English vessel, an innocent merchantman, bound to Per- narabuco. There was much laughter on board at this CATCHING DOLPHINS. 17 dJKOTery^ and some jokes were passed upon several of th« officers, who had been actively engaged with their pen- cils in estimating the prize money, and in making an equal division of it among themselves. When in the latitude of about two degrees north, we took the regular south-east trade winds, and crossed the eqaator in the twenty-fourth degree of west longitude, but without receiving a visit from " Old Neptune," or any of his attendants, much to the gratification of us '' green horns/' the barbarous custom having been discontinued in the American service, amid these days of light and knowledge ! On the fourteenth, large shoals of dolphins were seen playing about the ship, and several fine ones were hauled on hoard. Though they are ranked by medical writers among poisonous fish, yet they were given to the cook, and seve- ral of the « officers partook rather freely, and experienced injurious effects from them. Some were affected with blindness, others were seized with giddiness and violent vomiting ; their eyes at the same time being blood-shot, and their faces red and swollen. But thanks to medical assistance, they suffered no permanent injury. Those vho had partaken sparingly, experienced no deleterious effects. The dolphin is a beautiful fish : when seen under wa- ter, the color of its back is sky blue, its fins of burnished nlver, and its tail like a sheet of gold. Those which ve caught, afforded us an opportunity of observing how ^niarkably this fish varies its colors from yellow to blue, in the agonies of death. CHAPTER II. Rk) de Janeiro— Scenerjr— Ships of foreign nations— Don Pedro— State of the country— Notice of the inhabitants— Slaves— Ci^v prison- Public gardens — Houses -Market— Public buildin^js—Museum— Acadeinyof fine arts— Public library— Emperor's country palace— Prava Grande— Chamber of Deputies— House of Lords— Burial of a child— Description of the cnurches — Fountains — Aqueducts- Social entertainments— Gloria Hill. On the afternoon of the fifteenth of October, we made Cape Frio, a high, irregular point of land at the distance of forty miles, and the day following anchored in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, after a passage of fifty-one days from Sandy Hook. The morning had been showery, but this r the charities of the monastic establishments, and the small sums occasionally contributed by strangers. I have frequently been accosted by these pitiable objects, and as I have thrown them a few vintons, a smile of joy would illumine their countenances, as though some ponderous burden had been, removed from their shoulders. The more robust and athletic are obliged to carry the various articles of transportation on their heads, or draw them along the streets in low trucks like team horses. They may be seen with baskets of live pigs, casks of water, bags of coffee weighing to the amount of two hundred pounds, and some- times with half of an ox on their heads. They are mise- tMj clad, and as they toil under the weight of their bur- dens, they cheer themselves with a native song, not very pleasing to a stranger's ear. The women carry the lighter burdens, such as baskets of oranges, bananas, cocoa-nuts, and trays of sweetmeats. They are better clad than the men, and many of them appear cheerful and sing merrily u they pass along. Some of the slaves are sent out in the morning by their msters, and are required to procure a specified sum of 34 CIIUI8E OF THE POTOMAC. money at all hazards. They would be justified by tbeir employers, were they obliged to steal it, so little is honesty regarded. If a slave is detected in stealing, or runs away and is retaken, he has a heavy iron collar put iipon his neck, with huge prongb eictending out on each side. An additional punishment, is sometimes inflicted by the lash. The slaves are frequently intrusted with articles for sale; and when a person wishes to purchase of them, he makes a hissing noise, and points to some m which they are taken, before being delivered to the slave dealer. They subsist chiefly on mandioca, black bjeans, or maize flour, boiled in water. They are occasionally allowed e little salt meat, which they cook to suit themselves and eat it out of a hollow gourd, making use of their fingers instead of knives and forks. There are about twelve thousand oonvicts in the eity prison. Their situation is truly deplorable, as they are covered with' raga and filth. This fact shows to what a low stale the morals of the people are reduced, and the PUBLIC GARDEN. 25 peat necessity there is for reform. What should we think if tiie largest city io our own country had a prison contain- ing the same number of convicts t In the course of my rambles I visited the passaopubUco, or public garden. This is situated by the seaside at one extremity of the town, surrounded by a ^igh wall, and is a fashionable promenade for the gay society of Rio. It is kid out in grass plats, shrubberies and parterres of jessa- mine and other fragrant plants, interspersed with a variety of rich shade trees. On the side of the garden next the sea is a terrace of granite, in the centre of which is a foun- tain made of artificial rock- work, with figures of two alli- gators of fine sculpture, which formerly spouted water into a marble basin in front. The fountain is now in a state of decay, and destitute of water. In the walks are two granite obelisks with inscriptions nearly defaced. On one of them may be traced the words '* a saude do Rio" and on the other *' O amor do publico," expressing the design of the garden, to promote the health and pleasure of the inhabitants. We dined at the principal hotel in the place, kept by Mr. Johnston, a Scotchman, and had no reason to complain of our fare ; but what appeared singular to me, was the custom generally prevalent in Brazil, of accom- panying the dessert with wooden toothpicks ! We remained at Rio about three weeks, during which time I had frequent opportunities of going ashore. A brief sketch of the city may not be uninteresting \o our readers. This place, discovered in 1531, is said to have derived its name Rio de Janeiro, which signifies river of 3* 36 CBUISfi OP THE POTOMAC. January, from the mistake of the person who the hay, as he supposed it to be the mouth of a large river. Others imagine it to be named from the feast of St Janna* rius held on the first of January. The city is situated oa the western shore of the bay, and compared with other cities in South America may be called splendid, though for neatness and elegance it by no means ranks with the citie* / of the United States. It contains a population of two bun- ^ dred thousand, the greater part of whom no doubt are PcHtuguese. We seldom saw any of the aboriginal inhabi- tants, as they usually avoid the city : but it was cbmmMi to meet people of almost every nation, English, French, German, Dutch, Italians, Swiss, and North Americans. The intercourse of the inhabitants of Rio with foreign nations has had a favorable effect upon th^ place, and the marks of civilization are more evident than in most of the cities of South America. Rio, in commercial importance, ranks among the first cities on the globe. The streets with one exception are narrow, poorly paved, and badly lighted. One whole street is occupied by gold and silver smiths and jewellers. A stranger is astonished at the vast variety of brilliants, &c., exposed for sale. The work- manship of the artisans, though inferior to the American or European, is not destitute of taste. The houses are generally built of stone, though some are constructed of wood. The former are stuccoed and whitewashed and covered with tiled roofs, but the style of architecture is poor, though of late there are indications of improvement in this respect To the eye of a stranger the r PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 9T koufles present a gloomy appearance. The entrance to the principal ones is by large clumsy folding-doors^ opening into a carriage-house, through which you pass to the rooms ' ibove, where the family resides. S Rio de Janeiro, though the capital of Brazil, has a poor ^ market. The beef has not the tender and juicy flavor as with us. Fish are abundant and of fine quality. The various ; kmds of vegetables raised in our own country might here be cultivated to advantage, but they are scarce, and the Brazilians make no use of them. Potatoes brought from Ireland and North America command a high price. Fruits ue abundant, such as oranges and bananas, and are of very rich flavor. Among the public buildings in Rio are a museum, an academy of fine arts, and a library. The museum faces the Campo de Santa Anna. It contains a great number of insects of rare beauty, in good preservation, and a large collection of stufied birds, remarkable for their rich and ' gaudy plumage. Also rich minerals, a great variety of paintings, and other articles of curiosity. The harp bird, 80 called firom the resemblance of its tail to that instrument, was particularly beautiful. The Academy of Fine Arts is a noble building that would not make a bad appearance even upon New-Haven common, but there has been no taste displayed in its location, which is in a narrow street not at all distinguished for its neatness. I visited this institution in company with one of my countrymen, at present a resident of the city. The instructor and his pupils politely bowed as we entered. Various branches of learning are here taught at the public expensoj^ two of the n 38 CRUISB OF TMK POTOMAC. rooms being devoted, to that purpose. A variety of paints ings and drawings designed by the pupils were shown us, some of which evinced much talent. Higher specimens of paintings were contained in another apartment, but they were generally inferior to those in galleries of our own country. There are several primary schools in the city, in which the system of mutual instruction is pursued. There* are also schools of a higher order, where are taught mathe- matics, Latin and Greek, music and drawing. The prin- cipal instrument of music is the guitar, and when accom- panied by the voice produces a pleasing effect. The higher classes of society send their child^n to Europe to be educated. The public library is in an edifice connected with the TImperor's palace, and contains about seventy tliousand volumes, most of which are very ancient. We saw here a copy of the first printed edition of the Bible on parch- ment, impressed in 1461 by the wonderful mechanism of John Faust, the inventor of printing. We noticed also several different editions of the Polyglot Bible in various languages, bearing the marks of extreme antiquity. The works on law and history are considered rich and vaida- ble. The people are allowed to visit the library during the day, but it is not much frequented, owing to a want of taste for reading among the inhabitants. This remark does not apply to the English and Americans resident here. The spirit which they have manifested for their own improve- ment is worthy of all praise. They have an English li- r ehpuior's palacs. 90 brary in connection with a reading-room, where they paas tbtir leisure hours usefully and profitably. The tra? eller bis only t6 be introduced by a member, and any book is at his command. The climate is humid and hot, and insensibly impairs an European constitution, though it is generally admitted, tkat if foreigners would Uto on a simple diet and as tem- perately as the Brazilians, they might ^njoy good health* I went with the chaplain, Mr. Grier, to San Gristorao, the Emperor's country palace, situated about three miles from the city. The road leading to it is broad and smooth, and well supplied with lamps for the evening. The coon* try residences we passed, exhibited a richer display of grass plats, trees and flowering shrubs, than probably can be found in any other part of the world. The site of the palace is delightful, commanding an extensiTe view of the water and of the surrounding country, clothed with Ivan* riant vegetation. There is nothing particularly attractive in its external appearance. One part of the building is but two stories high, painted yellow, with a tower at one end, crowned with a dome. The other part is four or five stories high, of Grecian architecture, .the exterior walls being variegated in imitation of marble. We found the rocnss of the palace splendidly furnished. The walls were decorated with fine paintings, the subjects of which were taken from Scripture and from Roman history. There were also portraits of kings, emperors, princes and knights^ among which were those of the Portuguese royal family. The Emperor's private library is not very extensivoi but it 30 CBUrSE OF THE POTOMAC. eotttains many rare works. On one side of this palace was a hanging garden, affording a beautiful display of roses and choice plants. It was ornamented with numerous images, on some of which were representations of armorial escutcheons. The pleasure grounds in this vicinity are objects of peculiar interest. They were adorned with a variety of arbors, over which fragrant vines were creeping^ and an artificial pond in the centre was inclosed by a high hedge of cofiee trees, forming a wall of darkest green. On the nineteenth, I visited Praya Grande with a party of midshipmen. This beautiful and curving beach, di- rectly opposite the bay, is lined with a range of fine white houses and a few stores. Nothing can be more pictu- resque than the adjacent scenery. Hills and valleys crowned with evergreen shrubbery, and interspersed with groves of orange, lemon, cocoa, and banana trees, pre- sented a delightful appearance. Our party were all in high glee, and we partook bountifully of the fruit which surrounded us, and returned (o the ship much pleased with our excursion. I was ashore again at Rio a few days afterwards, and visited the Chamber of Deputies and House of Lords. I was particularly strucic with the venerable appearance of the senators at the latter place. They were holding a discussion relative to the state of affairs between their own and the British government, and if I remember correctly, it was respecting the loan of some millions of pounds ster- ling, which they had obtained from the fbrmer. At the House of Liords some of our officers were close- FUNERAL or A CHItO. SI lj4]aestioned, to ascertain if they were English or Ameri- cazLs. They were told if they were English, they most leare, but if Americans, they might remain. The Cham- ber of Deputies were discussing subjects of the highest importance to the empire, as they were about to draft a new coaslitution for the government of the people. We left the Chamber of Deputies to visit one of the churches, to witness the funeral rites and ceremonies per- formed over the remains of a child. The body was laid in a straight box, with a triangular lid covered with black velvet, and ornamented with gold lace. It was placed on an elevated platform within the chancel, and opened to disclose the corpse, which was richly dressed. The cheeks were painted red, and a semicircle of tinsel was placed over the head, decorated with artificial flowers, that it might be admired even in death. A great number of the relatives and friends were present, each holding a burning flambeau. The priests were habited in muslin robes richly wrought, and with a species of scarf thrown over their shoulders^ overlaid with gold. The ceremony was very imposing. Afler the requiem for the dead was chanted, the child was buried in the cemetery adjoining the church. The body was placed in a niche in the wall, to be covered with lime. The father was much affected, and wept profusely. , As one of the attendants handed him the dish, that he might sprinkle the lime upon the child, he shrunk back as if in dread of performing such a ceremony, but finally succeeded in conquering &is feel- CRVIflB OF THE rOTOMAC ings, and wu followed by his friends^ and aome of our officers. The interior of the churches presents a grand display; of gold, but the architecture b clumsy. Many of the al- tars are of massive silver, but the paintings and works of sculpture are inferior. The English have a neat little church near the public garden, inclosed by an iron railing, with a yard in front paved with granite. It was built in 1820, and will hold five hundred people. The clergyman is of the Episcopal order, and is supported partly by British and American residents, and partly by the English government. The city is ornamented by several fountains made of granite, which are supplied with water from the neighbor- ing hills, by means of an aqueduct some miles in extent^ similar to those mentioned in Roman history. A part of the aqueduct, which is built for ornament, is supported by a double row of arches, placed one above the other. It was completed in 1740, and is said to be made in imita- tion of the grand work of the same kind, erected by John the Fifth at Lisbon. It is the best specimen of architec- ture of which Rio can boast. The shipping is supplied with water from a fountain upon the quay opposite the palace, and is conveyed to the casks in the boats by means of a hose. The water is ex- cellent and keeps well at sea. A few days before we left, a splendid dinner was given by our reefers, to the Eng- lish midshipmen of the Druid, then lying in port. This GLORIA HUX. 33 compliment was soon afterwards returned. Several hand- some entertainments were given to the officers of our ship during our stay, which were reciprocated by us in no stinted measure. It is always pleasant to meet one's own countrymen in a foreign land, and many marks of atten- tion and hospitality were bestowed upon us by the Ameri- can residents. The last day I was on shore, I visited Gloria Hill and Praya do Flamengo. Upon the summit of the former is the church of Nossa Senhora da Gloria, (our Lady of Glory,) distinguished by its elevated situation, and is one of the most commanding objects seen by the eye of the mariner as he enters the bay. Our consul, Mr. Wright, resided at Praya do Flamengo, and I was cordially re- ceived by him and his family, who showed me many at- tentions which I shall ever recollect with pleasure. On returning, I ascended Mato-porco, a high hill over- looking the harbor. The prospect is extensive and noble, presenting a view of the surrounding country for some miles in extent ; and I left with the impression that grand- er scenes in nature are seldom witnessed, than those which abound in the environs of Rio de Janeiro. 4. i CHAPTER IIL hepMtare from Rio — Scenes at sea— Theatre on board the ship^Other amusements — Reflections— Vessel in distress— Entrance to Tabl« Bay— Arrival at Cape Town — Reception— Description of Cape Town — Its situation — Institutions, &c. — Visit to Constantia — ^Rev. Dr. Philip — Sir Lowry Cole — Publiclibrary — Reception of compa- ny on board the ship — Visit to Mr. Rutherford — London friends — Dr. Hewitt. On the fifth of Novemher we weighed anchor and left Rio, having replenished our stores with an abundance of fine fruit, such as oranges, bananas, et cetera, and with a good supply of live stock. The wind being light, a long line of barges, sent by the commanders of the different ressels of war in port, assisted our own boats in towing us out of the harbor. A fine breeze soon aflerwards sprung op, and by nightfall we entirely lost sight of land. A few incidents only, that occurred on our passage of thirty days to the Cape of Good Hope, are worthy of no- tice. The weather was at times boisterous, when a good fire would have been a comfortable thing ; at others it was much like what we experience in the fine month of Octo- ber in our own country. We have oflen read much of the works of God as Been at sea, but not till the present voyage were we far- 36 CBUISE OF THE POTOMAC. nished with such favorable opportunities fpr witnessing them. The works of God seen in any part of His vast dominion, sufficiently display his goodness, power, and wisdom; but at sea we perhaps form sublimer conceptions of these attributes, than on land. This impression is deeper in the southern hemisphere than in the northern. The former is far more brilliluit than the latter, and the wide vault of heaven more closely studded, with lumina- ries. I passed many delightful evenings in gazing up- on this vast magazine of contrivances, and in contem- phting the exquisite design of the Creator, in forming such countless myriads of objects, so replete with sublimity. How can any one with his eyes open to the light of nature, doubt for a moment of the existence of a God ? -" The winds And rolling waves, the sun's unwearied course, | The elements and seasons^-all <|eciare For what the Eternal Maker has ordained The powers of man. We feel within ourselves , His energy divine : He tells the heart . , He meant, he made us to behold and love What he beholds and loves, the general orb Of life and being — to be great like him, Beneficent and active." i We had some beautiful sunsets. One I would like to describe, had I language adequate to the task. A grander scene has seldom been witnessed. The whole western sky was brightened into a light red. Over this hovered ranges of fantastic clouds, incessantly changing their variegated tints, under the effulgence of the rays of the setting orb : a golden path shot across the water, and amid this scene of magnificence, the sun went gloriously THEATRE ON BOARD. 37 down, while all were on deck, eagerly beholding the sight and admiring its beauty. During the passage the men were occasionally exer- cised at the small arms, and considerable amusing conver- sation was held about the intended attack on the Malays atQuallah Battoo. Their certain discomfiture was predicted, and a blood- less triumph, victoria sine clcLcte, it was believed, would be achieved on the western coast of Sumatra. But more of this hereafter. On the passage from New- York to Rib Janerio, it was ascertained, that there were several bankrupt tragedian^ on boafd, some of whom had acted on the stage in the United States with considerable eclats One had for- merly been proprietor and manager of a theatre in New-Orleans. They volunteered their services and ob- tained permission from the commanding officer, to exhi- bit on board. Several singly pieces were recited, and some part of ** Douglas" was acted. We had " My name ie Norval. On the Grampian hills," &c. # At Rio their performances were repeated with some additions. The quarter-deck was dressed out with sce- nery and flags, and other gorgeous drapery. The ship was honored by the attendance of several of the foreign residents in the place with their ladies, by a number of Bra- zilian gentlemen, together with the belles of the city, and by officers from the ships of war in port. A regular thear tre was then established on board. A subscription of one 4* 38 CRUISE OP THE POTOMAC. hundred and twenty-fi^e dollars was raised, and expended chiefly in the purchase of dresses, tapestry, and other pa- raphernalia. A company of actors was formed, consist- ing in part of the sailors, styled the Thespian Corps, During the passage from Rio, we were favored by our " Thespian Corps," with farces, tragedies, recitations, a few original pieces, and national and comic songs. Thes- pis himself might have been flattered, had he been pres- ent to witness ho^ flnely his dithyramblics were chanted. Old " Ichabod Crane" himself could not have re- strained his risibles at the sight of our female actresses. Persons whom we were accustomed to see with huge quids of tobacco in their mouths, and quafling eagerly the *' liquid fire" from the " grog tub," had here renewed their age, and were seen in 'female attire, proudly strutting about, and screwing themselves up to the imitation of all the graces of a young lass of sixteen. It was no easy matter to find among so many " salts" one to represent a young lady. As for old women, fit personages were not so diflicult to be obtained, for any of the care-worn and weather-beaten sailors would have been tolerable repre- sentatives. Master Burke and Madam of our own country, might have suflered by a comparison with the dandies and young lasses that graced our stage. These performances created much merriment for the crew, and served to break the dull monotony of a sea life. In addition to the theatre, other expedients were occa- sionally adopted for our amusement. ' One evening, for example, while the officers were quietly housed below, a AMUSEMENTS. 39 bad trampling, like that of some TDonstrous animal, was lieard on the spar deck. Every one abandoned his em- ployment, and rushed from his apartment with mouth and eyes wide open, to gaze at the spectacle, or apparition, if 80 it might prove. But by the time they had reached the deck, the noise had ceased. It was soon heard again, when the animal approached and galloped several times around the quarter deck, making a scattering among us, as if each found it necessary to escape for his life. This created much laughter, though it was not so easy to divine what the' ghost was. But tlie mystery was soon solved. Two men had lashed themselves together, back to back, by a rope around their waists. Each bent the body downwards in opposite directions ; on each side of the head of one, a shoe Was fastened, to represent the ears of the animal ; over the head of the other, hung a swab or broom, to serve the purpose of a tail, and both were overspread with a white blanket. Each carried a couple of clogs in his hands, which, when beat upon the deck, occasioned a sound similar to the trampling of a horse, or the trotting of a donkey, while a boy sat upon their backs, occasionally crying, " buy a broom." The reality of a sea life on board ship, wears quite a different aspect from what it does in the crude fancies of unfledged boyhood. His joys then are but dreams, and his hopes, but ** goodly shadows in the summer's cloud." It rarely happens that a man who goes to sea, especially on a long voyage, can refrain from failing occasionally into a melancholy mood. Tired of treading the same cir- 40 CRUISE or THE IPOTOMAC. ele^ of beholding the same objects, of repeating the same round of duties, with nothing to stimulate to action, he becomes a burden to himself, and not unfrequently falls into a depression of spirits, almost insupportable. Any thing, therefore, calculated to break in Upon this dull same- ness, and awaken his sensibilities, is hailed with pleasure ; and sailors who possess no stock of real happiness, but snatch the froth from the wave as it passes by them, are ever busy in taxing their powers of invention at some- thing to amuse and afford a momentary gratification. We had many opportunities of seeing the great mon- sters of the deep, and frequently passed among large shoals of sperm whales, spouting and sporting around us in beauty and grandeur. On the second of December, a vessel in distress was reported on our weather bow. We rushed to the spar deck with a fluttering heart, and feel- ings of compassion for the unfortunate. Many of the offi- cers were hanging in the shrouds to gaze at the object, which could just be discerned by the aid of a glass. It was then said to be a wreck — '' it certainly is a wreck." '^ No, it is a whale boat, filled with men." " No, it is a spar — it is a spar." Our speculations were soon ended, by approaching the thing which had excited so much at- tention. It was a wreck indeed, but not of a ship. It proved to be the mangled carcass of a whak, filled with busy albatrosses ! The first lieutenant levelled a thirty- two pounder at it, but in consequence of the motion of the ship, and the rolling of the ioreck, the ball passed over it. It was, however, considered a good shot! TABLE BAY. ^ 41 On the fifth, " High land ahead" was reported hy the man on the fore-yard. It proved to be Table Mountain, It the distance of about fifty miles, and by evening we hid ran very near to it ; but in consequence of not being familiar with the entrance to Table Bay, the Commodore deemed it best to stand off and on,, during the night. The next morning found us near False Cape, whither the current had drifted us, at the distance of about thirty miles. Having but a light breeze, and the current still setting strongly against us, we made slow progress, and by noon, were completely becalmed, within a few miles of the har- bor, This was not a little tantalizing, as we were aU anxious to have a view of Cape Town. But the scene around. us was not devoid of interest. Within a short distance were seen lofty mountains perfectly bare, but presenting a bold and fanciful outline, rising from the sea, pile on pile, resembling in some respects an anti- quated watch-tower. Not long after, a fine breeze sprung op and we were soon in the harbor. As we entered Table Bay, a snug little cottage on ou]r right, sheltered in aretired noek at the foot of a mountain, was an object of interest that attracted our attention* Embowered in beautiful shade trees, with its trellis and clambering grape vine, it presented a scene of quiet and raral repose. Several, not much unlike this, gradually came in sight, with their beautiful flower gardens and nbat shrubbery in front, till we at length obtained an extended view of the town. The town is built on a peninsula in latitude thirty-four degrees south, and is 43 CRUISE OF TVS POTOMAC. * sitaated in the midst of a valley between Table ^nd Lion mountains. The former rises on one side, almost perpen^ dicularly three thousahd and five hundred feet high, re** sembling the ruins of some giant fortress; the latter, on the other side, h^s a strong resemblance to that terrifiG monster whose name it bears, as extended in a reclining posture. Between them, as seen from the ship, were in- terspersed churches and other buildings, ^11 painted white, making an agreeable and picturesque appearance. We lay to, for a few moments, to receive on board the port captain, James Bance, Esq. and the officer of health, John Laing, Esq. Our arrival prodtfced great excitement. Before we fairly dropped our anchor, the bay was alive with various water-crafl, crowded with eager spectators, directing their course towards us, to reconnoiter our ship, the first American frigate that ever greeted the eyes of the people of South Africa. There might have been a mo- mentary disappointment, when the character of our ship was ascertained, as it had been a long time since any in- telligence had arrived from England, and a British admi- ral had been daily expected. When intelligence was communicated from^he signal station on Lion's Rump, to the post-ofiice, that a large ship was approaching, bearing an admiral's ensign, they very naturally concluded that ours was his majest/s ship, nor were we able to undeceive them, for we did not dis- cern their signals. We found but few vessels in the har- bdr, as ships most generally anchor in Simon's Bay, sixty miles south of us ; Table Bay being unsafe anchorage at CAPS TOWN. certain seasons of the year. This harbor is considered mare only from September to May. The wind blows ex« ' ceasjyely bard from the north about the mouth of October^ wiwD all communication with the shore is suspended for ■my days. Sometime previous to our arrival, an American vessel vas driven ashore and lost, but the greater part of her cargo was saved. Soon after we moored ship, we saluted the fortress in town with seventeen guns, which compliment was returned vith a salute of eighteen. The effect of our guns against tbe massive walls of Table mountain, was grand beyond conception, like that described by Mr. Stewart. " Echo after echo of the deepest toned thunder, intermingled with reverberations, lik^ the discharge of a rapid fue de joie^ rolled round and round the bay, between every gun, as if a whole fleet were in action.'^ The next day I paid a visit to the town, and was igreeably surprised to find so large and flourishing a popu- latioo ia this remote quarter of the gk>be. This land of Hottentots, which is often associated in our minds as the region of sterility, and tbe abode of wretchedness, now contains as many signs of comfort, as fair complexions, ud to some extent, as good society, as are to be found in uy part of the United States. The people are well dress- ^y and in the height of the fashion. What was the niore noticeable, especially afler just leaving Rio de Janeiro, was, tbat we did not see a solitary beggar, though at that place te were surrounded with them. } 4^ CRUISB OF THE POrOMAC. \ The town is laid oat in regular squares, somewbdj similar to Philadelphia, though it by no means equals tM city in wealth or in style of building. The streets ai^ broad, and are all McAdamized. The population, equil to that of the city of Washington, is upwards of eighteSB thousand. The houses, built principally afler the Dutch style, are low, flat-roofed, chiefly constructed of stone, and white-washed on the outside. A few only are of two at9r ries ; yet from their situation and cleanly appearance, an air of comfort and convenience is throwil around tbem. The city owes many of its features, to the Dutch, who were its original settlers, but it has undergone some essen* tial improvements since it came into the possession of the English. The colony, of which this town is the capital, exceeds Great Britain in extent, stretching nearly seven hundred miles along the coast, and about eight hundred into the interior. Its population equals that of the city of Edinburgh, being about one hundred and forty thousand. The Dutch commenced the settlement, about the mid- die of the seventeenth century. It was captured by the English, towards the close of the eighteenth, and afle^ wards restored to the former. About the commencement of the nineteenth, it was retaken by the English, who have ever since remained its sole possessors. As we landed, we passed on our lefl a strongly forti' fied castle, occupied by English troops. We then entered a beautiful square, flanked on all sides by a double row of shade trees, affording a delightful promenade, and the whole inclosed by a wall, breast high. This is used as a PUBLIC WALK. 45 parade groand, and contains the Commercial Excliange. Nearly in front of the building, stands a mutilated column, eal in some respects. Their tails alone might weigh from six to sixteen pounds. The fat is used by the Dutch farmers, in preference to, butter. The sheep are not of the woolj spe- cies, but are covered with long hair, which haiigs in beau- tiful ringlets over them. European sheep have of late been introduced into the country with considerable success. While making our last purchase, the gun fired for us, and we were obliged to repair with all possible despatch to the ship. When we arrived at the jetty or landing- place, we found the cornet already twisted, and every visi- ble preparation making to get under way. Shortly after we came on board, the anchor was weighed, and having a stiff breeze. Cape Town and its environs vanished from our sight. We have seldorti visited a place with which we were better pleased. Our ship was an object of curiosity during our stay, and was greatly admired. She was daily throng- ed with visitors, and among them were some of the most respectable people of the town. Our officers received the most marked attention while ashore, and had daily receiv- ed invitations from' the inhabitants, to partake of their hospitalities. His Excellency the Governor sought an early opportunity to invite Commodore Downes to an entertainment at his country residence. Places of public curiosity were made easy of access to us, and wherever we went, we were welcomed by the people, as though we had conferred, rather than received, a favor by calling CITY PRISON. 57 opoD tbem. We shall not soon forget the kindness leceiT* od from the inhabitants. Several invitations from gentle- ma in the country awaited us, just before our departure, which we were sorry to be under the necessity of declining. I omitted to mention that while at Cape Town I visit- ed the city prison. Among the prisoners were several women, and a large number of Hottentots, Malays, and Caffires. We found the different apartments neat and comfortable, and all arranged in a style honorable to the British government, and no less creditable to the Governor of the place. The Hottentots were in many respects dif- ferent from those we were accustomed to see about town, who are a mongrel race, through intermarrying with peo- ple of other nations. Many that we had previously seen were of a yellow complexion, but these in the prison were of a brown or russet color. The contour of their features was not very prepossessing. Their eyes were long and narrow, and half-closed ; their cheek bones high and pro- minent, gradually tapering towards the chin, resembling a triangle in shape. Their hair was not woolly like the negroes, but grew irregularly in tufts upon the head. They were about the middle stature, and remarkably good natured, and apparently an inoffensive people. We heard tliem talk, and observed a peculiar characteristic in their utterance, which has not been unaptly compared to the docking of a hen. The Caffres we saw hiere did not differ materially from them. They^ are of a moderate height, "tfong and active, and their countenances rather more ^n than those of the Hottentots. Dr. Philip is of opin* 6 58 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. ion that these people, in point of ability and good feeling, are decidedly superior to that portion of the refuse English popnhition which migrate to the Cape. ' li has become a proverb in oar own country, when we wish to speak of a roan below the level^f humanity, to say that '^ he is -worse than a Hottentot." This is a libel upon the character of these natives. What they were centuries ago, before the light of Christianity and civilization shone upon them, is no criterion by which to judge of them now. They are not the degraded beings that they once were. In some respects they are superior in^ intelligence to mainy who look down upon them with contempt. In many points they are unquestionably inferior to the race of whites, but in this respect, they do not suffer in comparison with the ancient Britons. In this remark we are borne out by the testimony of Mr. Pitt, who once said in the British House of Commons, that the Britons were formerly as obscure among the nations of the earth, as savage in their man- ners, as debased in their morals, and as degraded in their unclerstandings, as these unhappy Africans. They evi- dently possess great powers of discrimination, and at one of the missionary stations, there is a youn'g Cafire chiefs who is vindicating the character of his countrymen, and exposing the obloquy that has been thrown upon them, with the greatest ability. Before the missionaries commenced their operations among them, they were in a condition worse than the most abject slavery; they were without religion and morals, neaily naked^ without property, living in licentiousness MliSIONARIES. 5t and in beastly intoxication. Witness the reply of a Hot* tentot to the question put to him, as to what the missiona- nes had done for them. " What have the missionaries bserved that a very great change had been wrought in him. He appeared like a true penitent. To the question, what his present feelings were, he replied, ** I pray to God all the time that my sins may be forgiven." You are soon to leave the world, and how do you expect to be saved ? " Through the merits of Christ." Should a pardon now be granted you, would you not at once renounce Christianity, and return to Mohamme- BULAT PRISONER. 63 daninn? "No, it would make no difference with me. I would rather die as I now feel, than to lire and again be- come a Mohammedan." All that could be done, was to commend him to the mercy of God, who is the refuge and defence of the penitent and of the wretched. We left him not without the hope of meeting him at another day, on the right hand of the great and final Judge of the universe. ' CHAPTER V. Departure from Cape Town — Doubling the Cape— Preparations for the attack on the Malays — Death on board — ^Burial at sea— Reflections --Character of seamen— St Paul's island— Hog island— A Malay prow in sight — Sumatra. To return to our ship : we set sail from Cape Town on the twelfth of December, with a fine breeze, and after several days of boisterous weather, succeeded in doubling the Cape of Good Hope, without falling in with the " Fly- mg Dutchman" or spectre ship. As soon as the weather became sufficiently settled. Commodore Downes addressed the crew on the magnitude and importance of the enter- prise on which they were sent, and the absolute necessity that every man should thoroughly understand, and faith-- fiilly discharge his duty. Hitherto, as has been stated, the sailors had been oc- casionally drilled at the small arms, and were disposed to laugh at the whole affair, wishing to act in any capacity^ rather than that of soldiers. The officers also had been inclined to be merry, in view of the expedition. Matters now wore a more serious aspect. A plan of the intended attack upon the Malays was formed. As Commodore 1 66 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. Downes could not leave the ship without violating the! usage of the service, it was determined that Lieut. Shu- , brick should command the expedition, and that the seamen I should be separated into three divisions, with an officer in charge of each. In the event of an attack being made on the ship, or of its becoming necessary to bombard the town, it would be indispensable, for Commodore Downes to be ably and gallantly sustained by some of his officers. They were therefore divided into two classes, the one to abide by the ship, the other to go on shore. The command of the first division of seamen was assigned to Lieut. Pink« ham, that of the second to Lieut. Hoff, of the third to Lieut. IngersoU, and sailing-master Totten was to have charge of the crew, with the six-pounder styled " Betsey Baker.'' In addition to the above. Lieutenants Edson and Terretty in command of the marines, formed a fourth di- vision. Every division was subdivided into three sections, each under the charge of a midshipman. The first and second divisions were armed with muskets, the third with pikes and pistols, and the artillery men with cutlasses and pistols. Each officer was equipped with a cutlass and a brace of pistols. Two carpenters attached to each divis- ion, one armed with an ax, the other with a crow-bar, were to be stationed in the van, to break down the gates of the forts. Thus marshalled, the detachment was to go on shore, surround the forts and town, and demand resti- tution of the property plundered from the Friendship, with the punishment of the murderers. As soon as a landing should be effected, the marines were to form first, and the BURIAL AT SEA. 67 respective divisions to fall in after each other in regular SQCcession, according to their numbers, while the " Betsey Baker " was to bring up the rear. Two buglemen were to accompany the detachment, remain near the command* 'mg officer, and make the preconcerted signals. These vere one long blast for the first division, two for the sec- ond, and so on, while our national air, '< Yankee Doodle," was to be the signal for the whble to repair to head-quar* ters. Mr. Barry, second sailing-master, formerly an officss. The onlj entrance to it is by a harbor on the. east side, formed by a vast crater. Persons engaged in sealing are oitea found on the island. Lord McCartney met with several here when he touched in 1793, on his voyage to China. Se.als and sea-lions are numerous on the island. TVo boats from our ship were sent ashore, one carrying Lieut. Shubrick and Purser Slacum, on a hunting excursion, the other men, for the purpose of procuring fish with hook and line. They wer6 successful, and afler some time returned with a good supply offish and birds. The birds were so tame as to perch upon the gentlemen's hats uncon- scious of danger. The sailors had rare sport in knocking down pigeons and penguins with their boat-hooks. They brought off many penguins alive, and kept them on board as pets. The island was uninhabited, and every where bore evidence of volcanic eruptions, as appeared manifest from the specimens of lava which were brought on board. Lieut. Shubrick took a thermometer on shore and tried it at several hot springs, when the mercury rose to two hundred and twelve degrees of Fahrenheit. It is custom* ary for people when they touch here, to cook their fish is these springs. After leaving this island we steadily stood on our course, the men frequently employed at their evolutions^ SUMATRA. 71 and with no incideot till the ^st of February, except that tie " grog tub" waa capsized, to the no small vexation of tlK sailors, when Hog island, off the western coast of Sumatra, was described, probably deriving its name from the numerous varieties of the " swinish multitude" found tiwre. Two low tufled islets, called the Cocos, were also IB sight at the distance of twenty miles north of us. The two are divided by a channel, one mile in width, and the oae lying towards the south is the largest. We were now rapidly approaching the coast of Suma* tn, and on the evening of the following day the ship was ilisguised by running in the guns on the main deck, fore ffid afl, closing the ports, and putting in the bucklers, and ytiating every other port white, while the hammocks were p^ down, and the cloths thrown over the spar deck gQQs. Having also stump top-gallant masts up, our ship lesembled, at a distance, a large Indiaman. On the third instant, we came to anchor off the coast ia twenty fathoms of water, and with ninety fathoms of chain cable. During the evening we discovered several lights on shore, which we supposed were the haunts of pirates, but we afterwards learned, that the fires were loerely designed as a protection from tigers, which infest the forests, and come down at night and carry off sheep •od buffaloes. The next morning while we were at an- chor, a Malay prow, with* about thirty men on board, noanted with swivels, was discovered at no great distance iiom us. The '' gig" was manned immediately, and Lieut. Shabricks I^f • Barry, and Midshipman Morris went in it» I I ^ 72 CRtTISE OP THE POTOMAC. for the purpose of boarding her. They took w|th them several loaded muskets, which they concealed in the bot- tom of the boat. A singular fear came Over me that the character of oar ship had been discovered, and that our boat would not be able to overtake the prow. It was, however, soon dissipated by the return of the boat On approaching the prow, our officers pulled off their jackets, that the Malays might not suspect their character. Mr. Barry recognized several old acquaintances from duallab Battoo, but did not discover himself to them. The prow was from that port, and the Malays were bound to Acheen, to pay their annual tribute. They were inquired of respect- ing the purchase of pepper at Cluallah Battoo, and on their replying that it could be had* there in abundance, they were suffered to pass on. When the officers returned to the ship, they reported that she was so completely disguis- ed, that she could not be distiilguished from an Indiaman, even with the best of glasses. We weighed anchor shortly afterwards, but made slow progress, ^s the wind was light, and it became necessary to sound every half hour, in consequence of the supposed existence of shoals and rocks along the coast. Our [situa- tion on board was any thing but pleasant. A torrid sun was pouring its concentrated rays upon us, and not a head of either officer or man was allowed to rise above the ham- mock nettings.' A number of prows, outward bound, passed us during the day. Night approaching, we were obliged for the second time to come to anchor. The next morning we again made sail and stood in for our destined r BUMATRA. 73 port. Only one sail was in sight, and this proved an English brig, bound down the coast. A low point of land, studded with trees and surrounded with thick jungle, called Cape Felix, pointed out the entrance to the harbor of duallah Battoo. This cape may be considered as form- log one part of the bay. The appearance of the whole line of coast, as far as the eye could extend on our approach to Sumatra, was low, but on a nearer view, the ground was seen to rise by a gradual ascent towards a range of lofly mountains, situated far distant from the shore. This range extends through the whole length of the island, its bighest peak being estimated at thirteen thousand eight- hundred and forty-two feet above the level of the sea. The whole chain is thickly covered with trees, which give it a dark and funereal aspect; This range is called Mount Ophir. Whether this is the Ophir mentioned in Scripture, where Solomon sent his fleets for cargoes of gold and silver, I leave for those learned in disquisitions of this kind to determine. There may be, however, as much reason to imagine that this was the country, as to suppose it situ- ated on the coast of Africa. In point of magnitude, Suma- tra is ranked among the largest islands in the world, heingone thousand miles in length, and its average breadth one hundred and sixty-five. The equator divides it ob- liquely into two nearly equal parts. Its population is esti- mated at four millions. The inhabitants, in general terms, ve denominated Malays, though this is incorrect, as there ue several aboriginal tribes, in the interior, who are pa- gans. The term Malay^ among the pec^le, is synonymous 7» J 74 CRUISE OF TH8 POTiMffAC. with that of Mohammedan. The principal political diri- sibns of Sumatra, are the empire of Menang-ka-bu^ the Malays, the Achinese, the Battas, the Rejangs, and the people of Lampong. p CHAPTER VI Qnallah* Battoo — Geographical iiotice< — Resources — ^Productions— Forts — Shipping— Arrival at the town— A boat sent ashore— Hos- tile appearance of the natives— Return of the boat — ^Malay fisher- men — Taken prisoners— Preparations for the attack— Disembark- ment — ^Reflections— Battle — Appearance of the town from the ship —Conflagration— Boatft— Flag of victory— Release of our Malay prisoners. QuALLAH Battoo is situated in the kingdom of Acheen, in latitude three degrees forty-three minutes north, and longitude ninety-six degrees forty-three minutes east. It is a maritime port, and has heen for many years a mart of considerable importance, where traders,' more especially those of our own countrymen, have trafficked for spices. The town, previous to the conflagration by our ship's crew, was built on a low beach, embowered in shade trees and environed by high and thick jungle of fresh and vivid green. It derives its name probably from a river which flows to the south of it, as the literal interpretation of Quallah Battoo is " stony estuary." In the rear, stretch- es a vast uncultivated plain. The principal edifices, pre- Tioas to the destruction of the place, were a mosque of no 76 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. great magnificence, and two extensive bazaars. The dwelling houses were built of rough timbers and split bamboo, interwoven like wicker work, and raised on piled some feet from the ground. The number of inhabitants was estimated at eleven hundred, some of whom were rich. Several of the rajahs are said to have had some thousands of dollars in ingots of silver and gold. The soil is light and fertile, producing some of the finest tropical fruits, and an abundance of rice, yams, 6lc. Forty thousand piculs of white and black pepper were annually exported, equal to about two thousand and four hundred tons. The price of pepper on that coast is from four to six dollars the pi' cul. Their other articles of export are gum benzoin, rice, and cotton. The climate is considered healthy by th(B na- tives, but it makes insidious inroads upon an European constitution. The town was defended by several forts, built more in reference to the system of intestine warfare among the native tribes of the islands, with which they were in open and constant hostility, than to any regular plan of modern military defence. Thfey were however sufficiently formi- dable to resist a force of considerable magnitude. Their tocsins of alarm were a gong and a torh-tom, or rude wooden drum, which they beat furiously on the ap- proach of an enemy^ These were usually kept in the I forts. Two of these forts were so situated as to protect \ the town from an attack by water. Two more were in the rear of the town, and two on the south side of the river. Thehr shipping, if so it might be styled, consisted of ^ QUALLAH BATTOO. 77 several prows or small vessels, fitted with one, and some- times two masts, and rigged with square sails. Their war boats were nearly similar, mounted with several swiv- els, and often manned with fifty or sixty men. They had" also numerous fishing boats, fiirnished with one and some- times with two out-riggers called " sampans." The Malays uniformly have the character of being bold and intrepid navigators, and are of a treacherous, Yindictive character. From long intercourse with Eng- lish and American traders, a few of them have acquired a partial knowledge of the English language, and speak it in a broken manner. At noon, on the fifth instant, we hoisted ihe Danish national flag, and about two o'clock came to anchor off the town, after a passage of fifty^five days from the Cape of Good Hope. We came to, in merchantman style, a few men being sent aloft, dressed in red and blue flannel shirts, and one top-sail being clewed up and furled at a time. We were all anxious to obtain a glimpse of the place and of the adjacent scenery, but no person was al- lowed to gratify his curiosity in this respect, for fear of disclosing our true character to the natives. Not a single breeze fanned us. Every port being closed, the air that we breathed was close and stifled. The melted tar fell in rmable to the different characters they assumed. They w^re obliged to smear their pantaloons with tar, and to stain their hands with rhubarb, that they might resemble old weather beaten sailors. Their real design was to ex- aanine the relative position of the different forts, previous to making the intended attack. When all had approached within a few yards of the beach, they found it lined with a large body of men, exhibiting a warlike appearance, armed with javelins, creeses, cleavers, and sabres, and manifesting very hostile intentions. They therefore did not deem it prudent to land. Mr. Shubrick inquired for the rajah. They replied, " He no come down, he be one so great man." Mr. Edson next questioned them as to the price of pepper. They said, eight dollars per picu] ; but he finally succeeded in inducing them to lower the price to four dollars. A small number were invited to come down to them, and after a consultation was held, about half a dozen approached. Outr officers finding that it was their intention to surround the boat, and apprehending some hostile design, pushed farther out to sea. The Malays r MALAY FISHERMEN. 79 then exclaimed, ** What for you no come ashore ?^' An excuse was offered, and they were finally told that the next day the captain would come on shore and complete a bargain with them. They inquired with what cargo our ship was freighted, and were informed that it was with opium. The gentlemen shortly afterwards returned to the ship, haring obtained hut an imperfect knowledge of the place, and without ascertaining any thing relative to the most advantageous method of assailing the forts. During the absence of the party ashore, four Malay fishermen, atV tracted by the sight of an old clump of an Indiamen, as they supposed our ship to be, came alongside to sell their fish. Mr. Barry, who could converse a little in the Ma- lay (imguage, invited them on board. One came up with a couple of fish in his hand, but as soon as he reached the gangway, and saw our formidable battery and about five hundred men thickly stowed together, he dropped his fish in the utmost consternation, hurried back to the boat, and gave the alarm to his three companions. They were then told not to be afraid to come on board, that we would buy their fish, and that no harm should befall them. But they were not to be caught in such a manner. They had no idea of becoming prisoners on board of a ship of war, and began hastily to paddle off. Feariug they might give the alagn on shore, a mizen-top-man instantly leaped through one of the ports into vthe boat, and seized them. They Kt up a yell and made some resistance, but a rope was in- stantly let down, and they, finding that they were about to be dragged into the ship, nokns volens, through one of the 80 CRUIBE OF THE POTOMAC. ports, thought it policy to submit As they came over the gangway, they trembled ; and lifling their eyes and clasped hands to heaven, like men not knowing wher^ they were, cried aloud, Allah, in an imploring tone of voice. They were the poorest, sn^oke dried specimen? of human nature that we had seen, but perhaps more deserv- ing of our commiseration than ridicule. The sight of these men and the unfortunate predicament in which they found themselves, called forth a general burst of laughter throughout the ship. This, gradually died away, and a busy hum of conversation ensued, accompanied with animated gestures and occasional loud curses from the sailors, about the Malays. As the latter were led ail, the sailors gath- ered around them in crowds, viewing them with intense curi- osity, and their resolute and sturdy features brightened into a smile of exultation at the sight of them. An easy conquest was predicted. '* If these are true specimens of the Malays," said they, " we can knock them over with poles." Our prisoners on being interrogated which were the strongest, the Americans, or the Malays, replied that they did not know, that they were from TaUy Pow* " Are you not afraid ?" " Oh ! we are from Tally Pow." This was their chief reply. They were so exceedingly terrified that they could scarcely utter any thing else. They were conducted to the main deck, where some camp stools were brought for them, but they preferred to sit upon their own limbs in native style. They called for opium, with which to * Tally Pow is a pepper port, about tWelve miles from duallah Battoo. PREPARATION FOR THE ATTACK. 81 soothe their sorrows, when each swallowed a small pilL From an old dirty rug, which was wrapped about their loins, each took a filthy bag, containing a chnnam box, with some choice vegetable deposits. They took a few slices of the arica nut, and wrapped them in a betel leaf covered with the chunam, a kind of lime made of calcined sea shells, and crammed them into their mouths, placing io addition a small quantity of tobacco between their lips, resembling, as some one observes, *^ a swab in the bridle port of a man of war." This precious quid, together with the opium they had taken, soon composed them, and it was not long before they were all dozing. They were ultimately put in irons for safe keeping. Our ship now presented a busy scene. It was deter- mined to commence an attack upon the town the next morning, and every necessary preparation was accordingly made. Muskets were cleaned, cartridge-boxes buckled on, cutlasses examined and put in order, &c. During the evening, the Commodore sent for the ofhcers com- manding the several divisions, and gave them their instruc- tions. They were ordered to land, surround the town and forts, and demand indemnity for the outrage committed ipon the Friendship, with the punishment of those con- cerned in the barbarous massacre of her crew ; but were directed to spare the women and children. I had some conversation with ^ few of the junior officers, upon the robject of the perilous enterprise in which they were about to embark. They felt that it would not be so much a matter of jest, as they had been disposed to think it might ^8 83 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. be. There was some shrinking at the thought of impend- ing danger. They might however have remembered, that " The brave man is not he who feels no fear, For that were brutish and irrational ; But he whose noble soul its fears subdues, And bravely dares the danger, nature shrinks from." At eight bells, (twelve o'clock at night,) all hands were called. Those assigned to take part in the expedition were mustered, when Lieut. Shubrick, the commander of the detachment, gave them special orders. No man wajs to utter a word after he had entered the boat; no one was to fire till the command was given ; and no man was to de- sert his ranks. Considerable time was occupied in get- ting the men into the boats, and in making all things ready. Several of the officers felt impatient at the delay, and were fearful that they would be unable to effect a land- ing in season to surprise the enemy. At length the gal- lant band, to the number of two hundred and eighty-two men, including officers, lefl the ship about two o'clock. The last words we heard were, "Let fall, give way, men." Here was a moment of interest. All before in regard to fighting the Malays had been mere talk ; but now there was stern reality. The period had arrived when the grand object of our voyage hither was to be accomplished. The death-warrant of the Malays had been pronounced, and avenging spirits had gone forth to demand satisfaction for the wrongs of their countrymen. The blow was to be struck, and victory or defeat was to ensue. There was something awful in the scene before me. The expedition proceeded slowly on their midnight BATTLE WITH THE MALAYS. 83 errand in perfect silence, save an occasional whisper from the officer in command, with muffled oars, the soft dip- ping of which we could faintly hear, and nothing hut the stars of heaven to guide them to their place of disembark- ment. My own reflections were any thing but those of a cheerful character. I found it impossible to divest myself of the fit of melancholy which had seized me. I retired to my couch, but not to sleep. It seemed as though a spell had fallen upon the ship. Not a word was spoken. The steps of man had ceased to be heard, save those of the officer on watch. A silence like that amid the mourn- ful repositories of the dead, pervaded the ship, interrupted only by the striking of the bell, which proolaimed the hour of the approaching destiny of the Malays. The hours moved tediously on, as we anxiously awaited the dawn of day. Each one's thoughts were busied in contemplation of what might be the fate of his companion in arms. In this state of painful suspense, I for a moment lost myself in sleep, when I was awakened by the quarter-master ex- claiming, ** Mr. W , hot work going on ashore. Sir." It was then broad daylight, and I dressed myself and harried on deck. The scene was one of fearful interest. The din of war was heard throughout the town, threaten- ing destruction to every opposer. The reports of the can- non and musketry, as they came thundering across the water, told us plainly that the work of death was going on. Sheets of fire were arising from the town wrapped in flames, and the launch, with its carronade and swivels, was doing full execution upon the retreating foe. 84 CRUISE or THE POTOMiC. CommodoFe Dowiies had stationed himself in the lar- board gangway of the ship, with his glass, not to leaTe till the engagement shoald be over. He felt anxious to know how the affair would terminate, and at times thooght it wcNild be necessary to take the ship nearer in sbore^ in order to protect his men. The remainder of us were posted in different parts of the ship, some in the tops, some hanging upon the shrouds, and some on the ** Jacob's lad- ders/' all gazing with breathless anxiety. Some of the sailors were in the raging, and among them our unfettered Malay prisoners, watching the movementB with intense interest We were all surprised at the resistance apparent on shore. About an hour and a half after the action commenced, two boats were seen pulling off to the ship. They ap- proached us in silence, and from the cast of gloom visible in the countenances of the boat's crew, we conjectured that some of our brave fellows had fallen. The sight of two bloody corpses soon proved that our conjectures had been but too true. I never shall forget the appearance of their features. They were much distorted, and the r the balls uniformly whizzed over the heads of our men.* The resistance of the natives was in rain. The fort was stormed and soon carried ; not, however, till almost every individual in it was slain. To'onkou N' Ya- mat, usually called Po Mahomet, a chief of much distinc- tion among the people, who had been principally concerned in the piratical act of taking the Friendship, lost his life at this fort. The mother of Ghadoolah, another rajah, was also slain here. Another woman met her death at * Their pieces are mounted in a diflferent manner from those of other nations: the muzzles are pointed through the embrasures, ^nd the breech is suspended from the ceiling by a braided band of bamboo, or rattan, fastened around it: the gun is elevated and depressed by the hand. One man is obiigod to aim the piecei whilo another discharses it. PABTI0VLAR8 OF THE BATTLB« 89 this fort, but her rank was not ascwtained ; she fought with the spirit of a desperado. The sword of war should ever distiuguish betwe^i inned and unarmed opponents, but if women openly jeop- irdize their lives in the forefront of battle, can it be ex- pected that they will escape unharmed ? A seaman had jut scaled one of the ramparts, when he was severely voonded by a blow received from a wes^n in her hands. Bat her own life paid the forfeit of her daring, for she was immediately transfixed by a bayonet in the hands of the individual whom she had so severely injured. The sea- maa's head was wounded by a jav^elin, his thumb nearly cut off by a sabre, and a ball was shot through his hat. Had it not been for his fortitude and activity, he must in- evitably have lost his life. Lieutenants Edson and Terret, accompanied by a coq» of maripes, proceeded onward to the rear of the town, without commencing any act of hostility, till they arrived within the neighborhood of the fort which they had been ordered to assail. A bold attack was made upon the fort, uui after a spirited resistance on the part of the enemy, it rarrendered. Both officers and marines here narrowly es- caped with their lives. One of the natives in the fort had tniaed his piece in such a manner as to rake their whole hody, when he was shot down by a marine, while in the very act of applying a match to it. The cannon was after- wards found to have been filled with bullets. This fort, tt^e the former, was environed with thick jungle, and great ^ulty had been experienced in entering it. But for 1 90 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. their crowbars and axes, the men could not have sacceedH ed. A fire was opened near this fort frdm a neighborii thicket, upon the marines, by a party of the natives ambush. It is probable that this was the spot where thl unfortunate Brown lost his life. In the vicinity of thii fort, Lieut. Edson found several women and ch^dren greal ly terrified, and it was with difficulty th^t he could paciQr them. They were carefiilly conducted to a place of safety , where they remained till the close of the action, wheo they were humanely released. The engagement had now become general, and the alarm universal. Men, women, and children were seen flying in every direction, carrying the few articles they were able to sejze in the moment of perils and some of the men were cut down in their flight. Several of the ene- my's prows, filled with people, were severely raked by a brisk fire from the sixpounder, as they were trailing up the river to th^ south of the town, and numbers of the na- tives were killed. One of these prows was taken by a party of men belonging to a chief by the name of Po Adam, who resides at Pulo Kio, (woody island,) on the opposite side of the river. This was the same prow that had been taken from him, a year previous to our arrival, by order of the King of Acheen. Adam is n true friend to the Americans. A third fort was attacked under the command of Lieut« Shubrick, assisted by Lieut. IngersoU and his division of men, together with acting sailing-master Totten, in charge of a sixpounder. Lieut. Pinkham, being firom some I FORCES WITBDRAVN. 91 I cause unable to find the fort he was directed to attack, Uimied them with his detachment ; and the marines, not lloDg after, united in like manner with the main body of the Iftrces. This fort proved. the most formidable. It was tlie largest and the strongest fortified, and the co-operation of the several divisions was ultimately required for its re- duction ; but so spirited was the fire poured into it by our troops, that it was soon forced to yield ; and the next mo- iDent, the American colors we're seen triumphantly waving over its battlements. The greatei^ part of the town was reduced to ashes. The bazaar, the principal place of mer- chandise, and most of the private dwellings, were consum- ed by fire. The triumph had now been completed over the Malays; ample satisfaction had been taken for their outrages committed upon our countrymen, and the bugle wonded the return of the ship's forces ; and the embarka- tion soon aAer was effected. The action had continued about two hours and a half, and was gallantly sustained both by oiBceis and men, from its commencement to its The loss of lives on the part of the enemy is not known* Their chief warriors fell in battle. Po Cluallah, one of their rajahs, fled at the commencement of the engage- ment. Two other rajahs, Chadoolah and- De Lama, were absent from the town. The loss on our part was simply the two men killed, already mentioned, and several se- verely wounded. A marine by the name of Cole was supposed to be wounded mortally^ A ball perforated the middle of the sternon, passing obliquely to the right, pen- J 92 CRUISE 07 THE POTOMAC. etratiof the Imigs^ and injuring the external edge of ih% scapula as it escaped from the bbdy. He remained help^ less for seyeral months, and abandoned all hope* of rec^ very. The wounds in the breast and shoulder gradually closed, when a third made its appearance, occasioned by a part of the ball, and a portion of his belt, which had re- mained within him, forcing their way through his side. He was subsequently sent to this country, but whether he CTer arrived, or is still living, we know not Another man was severely wounded by a ball which passed through his thigh. He. was confmed to his cot for several weeks, when he so far recovered, as td discharge his appointed duties on board* The remainder 'of the wounded, half a dozen in number, had been injured chiefly by spears and javelins. When the whole party returned on board, they appeared as if they might have come from Vulcan's work- shop, covered as they were with smoke, soot, and mud. As the weather was sultry, the men had been thinly clad, and during the action they had their clothes almost lite* rally torn from their bodies. Many of the officers lost their shoes, and came off in their stockings. The warfare on shore, it would seem, was conducted in rather a desultory manner. The marines preserved perfect order, but it was with difficulty that the sailors could be kept in their ranks. The latter were much ex* cited, and cared but little about death. Many of the na- tives were shot down in their houses, from which they were firing upon our men. Old , on being question- ed while about to kill a woman, replied, " It matters not, w spoiti. 98 ht if there were no women, there would be no Malays." Many of the men came off irichly laden with ^ils which they had taken from the enemy, such as rajahs' scarfs and shawls, creeses richly hilted and with gold scabbards, gold and silver chunam boxes, chains, ear-rings, and fin- ger-rings, anklets and bracelets, and a variety of other oniaments. Money to a considerable amount was brought off J this was chiefly in pice,* several bags of which were taken ; but a few enriched themselves with small quantities of gold and silver coin. Among the spoils were a Chinese gong, a Koran, taken at Mahomet's fort, and several pieces of rich gold cloth. Some of the sailors had promised themselves a rich repast upon fowls and ducks which they had secured, but being called to repair on board sooner than they expected, were compelled to leave them behind. Others had seized a few jars of superior syrup, with which thev hoped to qualify their salt beef and pork, but their high expectations were blasted in the same manner. They would have secured a greater amount of plunder, had not the signal for their return so soon have been given. But it was fortunate that they withdrew from the enemy when they did, as a heavy sorf was rising, which would have wrecked their return. ing boats. The Malays were also rallying in the rear of the town, and while our party were embarking, a fire was opened upon them from a fort on the south side of the fiver, which had not been attacked ; and several of the I * Pice is a small coin, about the size of half a ce^t, and about equal to it in value. 9 94 CRVliE OF THE POTOMAC. ' balli^ passed within a short distance of them. It would have been a hazardous undertaking to assail that fori, situated as it wasj and it was unnecessary to make the attempt, as sufficient injury had already been done for the satisfaction of the American government. A lesson of wisdom, perhaps, might here have been derived from the history of former occurrences. Muckie, a pepper port, twenty-five miles distant from Quallah Battoo, was attacked in 1804, by a British squadron, consisting of a frigate, two ■loops of war, and a brig. The troops, after laying waste the town, imprudently remained on shore during the night, when they were all put to death by the natives. Ten months after the Potomac left the coast of ^uma- tra, three thousand Dutch troops, in a different part of the island, were assassinated in the night. The Dutch, it seems, had fitted out an expedition probably from Padang, for the purpose of making reprisals upon the native prin- ces, in the interior of the island. .The troops arrived at a post in the empire of Menang-ka-bu, some distance in the interior, without meeting with much opposition. Be- ing desirous of penetrating farther, they gained as an aux- iliary, the principal rajah, resident at Pagar-ruyong, which was formerly the abode of the Sultan. Through the influ- ence of this chief, the natives submitted to the Dutch, who easily gained possession of the greater part of the country. They stationed their troops at three different places. But being too confident of their political strength, they abused the power they had so easily obtained, and treated the natives with such severity and dppression, by raising levies INFERIORITY OF THE MALAYS. 95 ind contributions, that the latter became des^yerate, and having formed an extensive combination, they attacked the troops simuUaneousIy, to prevent a jYinction, when the whole namber of the Dutch Were cat off. It has often been a subject of surprise, that no more of our men were killed in the engagement with the Malays. They were much exposed to the fire of the enemy, not only from tfafe forts, but from tlie jungles where the natives were lying in ambush. One reason might have been, the promptnesi^ and decision with which the. orders of our officers were executed. Another, the superiority of our fire- arms over those of the enemy. A third, the general con- sternation with which the natives were struck, and the correct aim of our seamen. The Malays afterwards acknowledged that where they would kill but one man, we would kill a multitude, we fired with so much greater rapidity, and better aim. To use their own language, it was '* boom, boom" with us, while with them it was only a scattering fire. Another circumstance was, that in the scarcity of lead, niany of their bullets were composed partly of wood. Several of our crew thought that they contained poison, but on the closest examination, we found nothinor of the kind. The gunpowder of the Malays, which is made in great quantities by the Achinese, is very deficient in strength. It is manufactured, as with us, from charcoal, sulphur, and nitre; but either from an injudicious proportion of the ingredients in the composition, or from its being imperfectly granulated, it proves inferior. It is often 96 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. hastily prepared for immediate use. The fire-arms -we took from them, were muskets and bltiiiderbusses, chieflj of English manufacture, and many of them of considerable value. Several, however, were so corroded by rust, as to be of no use, except as mementoes of the discomfiture of the Malays. A small number were unquestionably made by the natives, as they have armories in some sections of the country, especially in the ejnpire of Menang-rka-bii^ where arms to a considerable extent iare manufactured. Much of their iron and steel i^ purchased firom Europeans, yet they possess valuable niiines, where they obtain ore, and smelt and forge it by a process of their own. The barrels of thei^ guns o^e wrought by rolling a flatted bar of iron spirally round a cirpular rod, and beating it till the several parts firmly unite. This method is considered preferable, in point of strength, to that of folding and weld- ing longitudinally. The cannon at Cluallah Battoo, were of iron, except in one fort, where were found several brass pieces. It is considered, by historians, that the Sumatrans knew their use before the discovery of the passage by the Cape of Good Hope, by the Europeans. Much has been said, in the newspapers of the United States, in reference to the affair of Quallah Battoo. Sev- eral strictures have been passed upon Commodore Downes, for taking such summary vengeance upon the unfortunate natives. It is not my intention to ent^r into a vindication of the conduct of this gentleman, for I do not deem it necessary. It would be a miracle, if any naval officer could secure his good name from those vague calumnies GENKRAl. REMARKS. 97 that are always floating over society, which ave willingly belie?ed, and eagerly propagated, by the enemies of the serrice, who take pleasure in decrying and defaming her best officers. In the view of oar government, it seemed necessary for the future security of our commerce, that an impression of our prowess should be made upon that coast, and we believe that the impression which has been made wiU not soon be forgotten. The crew of the Potomae went in obedience to the call of duty, and perilous was the task they had to perform. They intrepidly jeopardized their lives among a band of barbarians, who would at any moment have spilled their blood. The Commodore, it is presumed, acted in accordance with the spiHt of , the instructions he had received. It has been admitted on all hands, that the Malays deserved a chastisement, and this they received in the ipanner which has been related. There is, however, another consideration which should not be forgotten. If, in former times, our own country- men, going as they did, from a Christian country, hallowed by its Sabbaths, had always manifested an open, honest and upright conduct, in their intercourse with the inhabi** tants of Sumatra, the President of the United States would never have been obliged to dispatch a frigate of war, on such an expedition as the one above described: We make these remarks, generally, and without any reference to the officers of the Friendship. Some of them, we know per- flonally to be men of strict integrity and nobleness of char- acter, and we have no doubt that they were all governed by the true principles of magnanimity. But, over the 9* 98 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. whole subject of our intercourse with the inhabitants of the island, there hangs a tale of woe, which has never been unravelled. The natives were robbed and cheated in by -gone days. Even handed justice was not deaU out to them, and this course was pursued, for what ? For paltry gain, for the gratification of avarice. Hence,'^in connec- tion with such conduct,, the innocent must suffer with the guilty; and in process of time the vials of wrath were poured out upon the heads of the unfortunate crew of the Friendship. At the time that ship was recaptured from the natives, Mr. Barry told the Malays he would return in a year with a large ship and punish them for their atrocity, but they treated his remark with contempt. They said that we had no large ships, thiat our vessels carried only two or three guns; yet within the specified year, the PotQi&ac arrives, the threatening is fulfilled, and the man who denounced it is considered by the natives as a pro- phet, and the nation to which he belongs as invincible. But to return to our ship. At the close of the battle with the Malays, we were visited by half a dozen natives from Soo Soo, who came off in canoes, bringing a few cocoa-nuts as a peace offering to the Commodore. They conversed in broken English, and 'appeared extremely good natured and friendly. They were delighted with our encounter with the people of Quallah Battoo, and manifested iheit exultation by many a loud laugh and savage shout. They were of the middle stature, strong and active, their limbs were well shaped, their complexion of a tawny color, and their hair black. There was more \ r % f NATIV|SS OF 800 SOO. 99 lymmetrj in their features than might have been expected from such a race. Some of them had fine countenances. Thej wore a checkered handkerchief about the head, in the form of a turban, at one corner of which was attached a large silver slide, with a bunch of keys, a pair of tweeze][s, a tooth-pick, ap ear-pick, d&c, all of silver. Their ctoth- iog was simply a pair of light drawers, made of striped staff, and a sash itbout the waist. The remainder of the body was bare, as they wore neither shirt, shoes, or stock- ings. They were shown our formidable batteries, and desired to remain at peace with us, but feared that their town might be visited in the same manner as Quallah Battoo had been. In the afternoon, we were called to pay the last sad offices to our unfortunate shipmates. Smith and Brown. The exercises were attended with due SQlemnity, but the effect was momentary, and the general talk about the battle and the Malays succeeded to the impressive scene, and but little remembrance of it was afterwards manifested. ■jTJ'i'i^^'*^ CHAPTER VIII. Po Adam— Former outrage of the Malays upon tlie Friendship— Po Adam's wealth, and friendly disposition io the Americans— His losses in consequence — His reception on board the Potomac — Mo- hammedan fast — Beating to quarters— Its effect upon Po— Canno- nade at Ctuallah Battoo— While flags raised. Early the next morning, we received a visit from Po Adam. The uniform attachment of this chief to the Americans, but more especially the friendly part he acted ui the affair of the Friendship, deserves something more than the brief notice we made of him in a former chapter. On the seventh of February, 1831, the ship Friend- ship, captain Charles M. Endicott, of Salem, (Mass.) was wptured by the Malays while lying at this port. In the forenoon of the seventh, captain Endicott, Mr. Barry, second mate, and four of the crew, it seems, went on shore I u usual, for the purpose of weighing pepper, expecting to obtain that day two boat loads, which had been promised tbein by the^Malays. Afte^ the first boat was loaded, they observed that she delayed some time in passing down river, and her crew being composed of Malays, was 102 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC, supposed by the officers to be stealing pepper from and secreting it in a neighboring jungle. In consequeiiico of this i^onjectute, two men were sent off to wjatch them, who, on af^roacbing the boat, saw five or six Malays l^ap from the jungle, and hurry on board of her. The former, however, supposed them to be the boat's crew, as they liad seen an equal number quit her previous to their own sip- proach. In this they were mistaken, as will subsequently appear. At this time, a b.rig hove in sight, and was seen. standing towards Soo Soo, another pepper port distant about five miles. Captain Endicott, on going to the beaoh to ascertain whether the brig hiad hoisted any colors, dis- covered that the boat with pepper had approached witlim & few yards of the Friendship, manned with an unusual number of Malays. Upon inquiring of the men whom he had sent down to watch the boat, he learned, for the first time, that they had seen her take in several young Malays from, a ferry-boat at the mouth of the river j but they had not deemed it of sufficient importance to be reported. The suspicions of the officers on the shore were excited by this intelligence, and they feared that some treachery was planning against them ; but as it was contrary to the established regulations of the ship, to admit in the absence of the captain more than two Malays on board at a time, they flattered themselves that their regulations would be strictly observed. In an instant, Mr. Barry, accompanied by two of the ship's men, hurried to the beach to watch the movements on board, but as quickly returned with the infor- mation that several men were seen jumping overboard from OUTRAGE UPON THB FRIENDSHIP. 103 tbeship, and that the Malays w^re probably executing some Uoody design on her crew. In this conviction they were rtrengthened by the sudden appearance of Po Adam, who nibrmed them that there was mischief on foot, and told them to get into the boat immediately, or they would all be eot off. Convinced ^that they had no time to lose, they iprtog into the ship's boat and pushed off. At the same moment Mr. Barry said to Adaiy, '' What, Adam, do you come too ?" " Yes," said he, " if they kill you, they kill loe " Crowds of Malays assembled on both sides of the nver, brandishing their weapons in a menacing manner, while a ferry-boat, manned with eight oi* ten of the na- tives, armed with spears and creeses, pushed off to pre- vent the officers from regaining their ship. The latter exhibited no fear, and by pulling directly towards the hos- tOe boat, and presenting the creese of Adam, the only weapon among them, they succeeded in clearing the river and in effectually warding off the attack. But when they came within full sight of the ship, they found that the Malays had gained entire possession of her. Some of them were promenading * the deck, others were making signals of success to the people on shore, while, with the exception of one man aloft, not an individual of the crew could be seen. Thr^e Malay boats, with about fifty men, now issued from the river in the direction of the ship, while the Captain and his men, concluding that their only ^)e of recovering their . vessel, was to obtain assistance from some other ships, directed their cdurse towards Muc- tie, where they knew that several American vessels were 104 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. lying at anchor. Adam^ requested to be landed at Soo Soo, but as they were nearing the shore for this purpose^ he began to be fearful for his safety, and concluded to ac- company them to Muckie. A row of twenty-five miles brought them to that port, where they arrived at one o'clock the next morning. Three American captains, on learning the misfortunes of their countrymen, weighed anchor immediately for Qi^allah Battoo, determined if pos- sible to recover the ship, but owing to a light wind, they did not reach that port in season tQ effect any thing that day. On the ninth, they sent a Mday to the rajah on shore, to demand the ship of him, at the same time threat- ening to commence hostilities, if the Malays did not im- mediately quit the ship. The rajah refused to surrender the ship, and sent back word that they might take her if they could. A cannonading then commenced upon the Friendship, which was returned by the Malays on board of her, and by the forts of the town. In their attempts to get the Friendship on shore, the Malays had run her among the shoals of coral rocks, so that it was extremely dangerous for either of the vessels to come in contact with her ; but an explosion took place on board of her from an open keg of powder from which the Malays were loading their guns, and this silenced them. Three boats were now dispatched to board her, under cover of the guns from the vessels. As soon as they approached, the Malays aban- doned the ship, which was boarded without farther opposi- tion. She was lying within a few yards of the shore, and there was little left on board of her of any value, except OUTRAOS UPON THE FRIENDSHIP. 105 the pepper. She had been robbed of about twelve thou- | sand dollars in specie, twelve chests of opium, the ship's papers, spare sails, rigging, cabin furniture, nautical in- \ stniments, charts, clothing, and almost every movable ar- i tide on board. Upon farther inquiry as to the details of the preceding cmtrage, it was ascertained that the pepper boat had ex- changed her crew of fishermen at the mouth of the river, for a gang of opium smokers, rendered desperate by their habits, and to these were added men of the same class, taken from the ferry-boat, and that when the Malays came along side, not one of them was^ recognized by the ship's crew as having been there before. Nevertheless, all were permitted indiscriminately to go on board. The attack was then commenced simultaneously at different parts of the ship, by some concerted signal ; and the crew being thus surprised by the assault, the ship fell an easy prey to the invaders. The first mate and two seamen were stab- bed to the heart, and three others were severely wounded. Thus ended the melancholy affair of the Friendship. It may well be imagined that on the present occasion we were gratified to meet with Po Adam on board the PotCH mac. He came attended by three of his slaves, and shook hands very cordially with the officers. He expressed great pleasure at the destruction of Quallah Battoo, but said that sufficient punishment had not been inflicted, that we a lively tune. They seemed as impatient as our- selves to leave the place, for the anchor was soon up and /'catted,'' and we were making oar way from Soo Soo, nnder easy sail. It is far more pleasant being at sea than in port. It is healthier, and the affairs of the ship go on with greater regularity. On the following day, which was the Sabbath, the chaplain ffave ua an excellent sermon, in which an allu- lion was mad^ to the death of our unfortunate shipmates^ 126 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. who had fallen in battle ; and an application of the subject was made both to the officers and crew. ''A hynm of praise and thanksgiving for a victory/' was also read, from the book of common prayer. The fact of these men having m^t a violent death, threw an uncommon interest around the subject, and pro- duced a greater effect upon us, than if they had died a natural death. Nothing of any importance occurred till the twenty- second. This was the anniversary of Washington's birth* day, on which true patriots will always rejoice. At noon, the flag and union jack were hoisted, and the customary salute of seventeen guns was fired, in honor of his illustri- ous memory. The crew were assembled on the quarter-deck in the morning, and a laconic speech was delivered to them;. they were told that an extra allowance of grog would be served out, and they were cautioned not to get drunk, bat to be orderly. They did behave themselves, and for a good reason ; the whisky was not strong enough to make them intoxicated, as there was double the quantity of water to that of spirit. On the twenty-fi>urth, we crossed the equator the third time, without experiencing any *^jar " in consequence of coming in contact with the line ! The next day a ** booby " lit in the mizen rigging, much exhausted. He was caught by one of the sailors, and measured from one extremity of the wing to the other, six feet. It had a pitied battle with the monkey and baboon on the quarter-deck. They ISLANDS. 127 lotb received a severe pelting from the bird's beak^ and Emade good their retreat. Various birds were hovering about the ship daring the day. From this we conjectured that we were near some idand, which proved true. Towards night we made the ialand of Engeno. I had some conversation with a sick man in the hos- pital, a Dutchman, who could talk a litde English. Well, friend, said I, how do y6u get along ? "I tank you, sir^ I feel a little petter, but de pain across mh chist haif not Ijet qaite knocked ofif." I was unwell myself, but this 'reply ''knocked off" all my feelings of depression. On the second of March we made Java Head, and I Prince's island, and towards night entered the straits of Sanda, and anchored abreast of Crocka\oa, near their DKHitb. This is a mountainous island, rising gradually on all sides from the sea, terminating in a high peak in the centre, and covered with trees of the richest foliage, I (0 the water's edge. The Commodore went on shore at the island, and a party of officers accompanied him. They took their guns, and at night brought off a few birds. 'They also picked up some rare shells. On the morning of the sixth of March, ^e again weigh- l«(i anchor, and passed through the straits of Sunda. It was the intention of ihe Commodore to have anchored in ^poon Bay, or Rajah fiassa roads, for the purpose of obtaining wood and water for the ship, as well as other iQpplies ; hjit having a fair wind, he deemed it advisable to pass through the straits. We saw no main land, but aomerous beautiful islands, covered with the richest ver- 128 CRUISE OF THB POTOMAC. dare, presenting an animating scene. The officers intently beholding it, and we all concluded that there was an occasional pleasure in a sea life, and that the bold and stupendous scenery before and around us, amply repaid for the dull monotony to which we had for some time been subject. We anchored at Pangoringan, on the island of Java. This is a small place, about four miles east of Cape St J^icholas. The name literally signifies a/rytn^-pon, per- hi^s from the heat of its climate. ^ When Java belonged to the English government^ this place was frequented by His Brittanic Majesty's ships. The prospect from the ship was one of surpassing beauty. The grounds appeared to have been laid out at great labor and expense, and looked like a scene of enchantment Near the water's edge we saw green fields of rice, waring in the richest luxuriance, surrounded by regular rows of tall shade trees. From thence^ the ground, gradually ascending for the distance of several miles, was covered with rice fields ripe for the harvest. Yonder was the rude hamlet of the natives, embosomed in groves of the cocoa-nut tree, and within a little distance were seen villagers at work, and herds of buffaloes feed- ing. I determined to avail myself of the first convenient opportunity to visit a spot of so much apparent interest, and accordingly landed early one morning, in company with a couple of midshipmen. We first strolled along the beach in search of shells, but as it was flood tide, gave np the search as fruitless. We saw a small alligator, but were unsuccessful in our attempts to kill it. Being unac* EXCURSION ON SHORE. 129 i^uainted with the country, and not finding any regular patb^ we 3trttek off through a thick jungle, determined to make one .for oursekes, when in spite of our pleasing an* ticipations^ we found ourselves in a swamp, with mud up to our knees. Retreat was useless, but how to extricate ourselves, " hoc opus, hie labor erat." After a moment's consultation, we thought it best to ** go tihead" but the prospect became more and more dis- couraging as we proceeded. We at length found our- selves in a complete labyrinth ; but this was not all. To .add to our misery, our necks were filled with ants, biting us severely; our ears wete annoyed by the never ceasing flDging of myriads of musquitoes, while at every step we thought we were treading among generations of reptiles. After being tormented in this manner for about an hour, ' and encountering many additional obstacles, we made our way into the open plain, and proceeded to the village. This is divided into several districts. The houses are hailt principally on poles, intersected with split bamboo, aad thatched with leaves of the palmetto or cocoa-nut tree. They are placed rather closely together, without any order, having a winding path leading between them. On our near approach, we were beset by a pack of gniff and half starved dogs, which set up such a dismal jelling as compelled us to keep our distance. The buffa- loes did not fancy us any better ; several of them were lecured, each to a stake, by a rope passing through their Bostrils. At the sight of us, they became enraged, tossed ip their heads, snorting and snuffing at a furious rate, 12 f 130 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. and several of them, at length, broke the rope by which they were fastened. Some Malay lads then ran out from the house and secured them. We were not prepared for so warm a reception, and concluding that ^* discretion was the better part of valor," we proceeded towards another tsluster of buildings near by, to see if we should be welcomed there with the same cordiality. Here we found several of the natives who appeared friendly. They looked very much like our old duallah Battoo friends. We seated ourselves upon the grass, near one of the inclosures, and made signs to the chief man among them for some cocoa-nuts. He called out to one of the natives, as much as to say " Halloo there, my lad, bring these gentlemen some cocoa-nuts." The boy was at the top of the tree in an instant, throwing them down in great numbers. They then set to work opening them for us with their crooked knives, and presented us with enough for a week's stock. We found the liquor a very delicious and refreshing beverage. While regaling ourselves in this manner several females were peeping at us from their huts, struck with admira- tion no doubt, at the sight of American officers! After giving the lad who had furnished us with the cocoa-nuts, a few pice, we directed our course to some other dwellings, which were surrounded with plantations of bananas, to obtain some of the fruit, but found none that was ripe. There were a few females about the premises, and w^e fbund them here, as in all our travels, more polite than the men. They were not handsome, but in common with NATIVE WOMEN. 131 Other females, had fine voices and expressive looks. Their hair was long and black, and flowed over the shoulders in some cases in beautiful tresses; while in others it was tied Tike a mop on the crown of the head. Their dresses were of coarse gingham, thrown loosely over thena, and needed very much the purifying process of the wash-tub. A great part of. the manual labor in these eoontries is performed by females. We saw them beating rice in a mortar to take o£t the husk, and preparing the cocoa-nuts for sale by cutting off the exterior coverings, articles which were evidently designed for our ship. The children, according to the custom of that climate, were entirely naked, but were adorned by their parents with anklets and bracelets. The houses of the natives were indifferently furnished, resembling the cabin of a North American Indian. In one of the huts that I enter- ed, I saw a woman weaving. The loom was of rude con* stractipn, but it answered her purpose. She was making a kind of net from the fibres of the coooa-nut, perhaps a fisb-net. She was of a smiling countenance, and the Ma- lays about me appeared perfectly friendly ; but on leaving the house, I saw two of them expressing in their features aU the fierceness of the savage. They stood in a posture of defence, with their hands behind them, firmly grasping their creeses. The look of one particularly, was any thing hut attractive. There was a " laughing devil in his smile,'' and, as he was armed, I thought it best to take my depar- ture as soon as possible. I kept my eye constantly fixed upon his, " advancing backwards" at the same time, till I lost sight of him, considering it fortunate to escape so well. 132 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. These people are very simple in their habits of linng ;• their chief sustenance is rice and the fruit of the cocoa-nut They occasionally kill a buffalo, when an equal distribu- tion of it is made among them. They cut it in long thin slices, which they braid upon a wooden skewer, and place it over coals for roasting. They make no use of knives and forks, but the meat shreds in pieces by the slightest pull of the fingers. The cocoa-nut supplies them not only with food and drink, but with oil to burn at night ; also with thatching for their dwellings and ropes for their prows, which they make from its fibres. , _ We were soon on our way to the beach, attended by a few friendly natives, bearing a stock of cocoa-nuts for us. We passed over a small tract of ground where indigo was growing spontaneously ; also through some beautiful rice fields, which were laid out in squares, inclosed by high embankments, and kept constantly flooded. The culm of the rice much resembles that of our barley. We found the trees filled with little Java sparrows, chanting most melodiously. Our Malay friends coveted every thing about our per- sons. They were very desirous of obtaining a red hand- kerchief I had, and I was obliged to guard well my pockets for fear of losing it. We found, several midshipmen on the beach, with their jackets stripped of their navy buttons, which they had cut off to please the natives, who took a great fancy to them on account of the eagle impressed upon their surface. The natives gave them fruit in exchange, but asked exorbitant prices for every thing they had to sell. We returned to the ship much pleased with our adventures. CHAPTER XIL Second excursion on shore— Monkeys— Ship Philip First— The Com- modore's excursion— Anxiety on board for his safety— Hie return to the' ship — Fruita— Trade with the natives— Departure— Batavia roada— Chmese^Chawley Jangthay — Harbor of Batavia — Chinese junks— Rivfer Jacatra — Chinese marriage procession— Mr. Forestier —French hotel — ^Ride into the country — Buitenaorg. I HAD another excursion on shore the next day, with a pvty of midshipmen, notwithstanding my muddy jaunt the day previous. I was never more amused. The woods for nearly a mile in extent were filled with black monkeys, hy'ing tails as long as their bodies. They leaped from free to tree, ** swaying away," and balancing themselves upon the long and flexible branches with their tails, resem^ bling a company of frolicksome cats in a whirlwind. With tbe true lope of an Indian, we commenced a " regular ^t" chase after them, but as thiey were so much livelier uid more active than ourselves, we found it impossible to catch them. « Some of us were armed with muskets and pistols, and 12» 184 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. at length one of the '' middies" fired among them, whea they suddenly stopped their peregrinations, and began to '^coke/' and display their threatening gesticulations. I at length espied, at a distance, a large ^oy monkey seated on a log near a paddy field. He was a thievish fellow, and had his mouth filled with blades of rice. My com- panions gave chase to him. On their near approach, he took to the woods, but they succeeded in treeing him, when one pf the party wounded him with a musket ball. It then seemed as if all the brother monkeyi^ of the woods were holding a concert. From their discordant cries we might infer that there were no less than a thousand chat- ter-boxes in the trees^ The trouble was soon accounted for in a way different from that which we had at first imagined. It is the nature of monkeys to be clannisl). All the black ones had gath- ered in one troop, and being of a perverse and mischievous disposition, had fallen upon the unfortunate gray one, who wa^ of a different species. Some of the black ones were afterwards killed, and one was wounded. The wounded one was caught, and his distorted features were irresistibly ludicrous. His phiz had an uncommon savage appearance, bearing some resemblance to the human countenance, and his whiskers were as bushy as those of any dandy. When we returned on board, a dish of rich turtle soup awaited us. On the twelfth of March, we boarded the Philip First, a ship bound to Philadelphia, and sent a generous supply commodore's excursion. 135 of letters to our friends at home. She had just left Bata- na, and w^ received by her the pleasing intelligence that it was healthy at that city. , Early the next morning, the Commodore^ accompanied by the purser, went in his barge on an excursion of plea- sare, to an id^nd about twelve miles from our anchorage. They were equipped like sportsmen, with the exception of a hunting dog, hoping to fall in with some rare game. The surf being so high near the island, it was extremely difficult landing, and after this was effected, they could not remain long for fear of losing the boat ; they there^ fore determined to return to the ship. Both wind and tide were now against them, notwithstanding which, they made the attempt, but were soon compelled to put back. They rowed to a small cove near Bantam, where they rested themselves, and made a second attempt ; but it was at the peril of their lives, as the sea was rough, and the boat came very near being wrecked. This attempt proved as fruitless as the first, and they returned to the cove, where they slept part of the night in their boat cloaks. They afterwards made a third attempt, aad finally, through many' perils, succeeded in reaching the ship in safety, the next morning. When the Commo- dore came on board, he seemed xejoiced to place his feet once more upon his ship's deck. From the soiled appear- ance of his dress, it was evident that he had been on a hazardous enterprise. Great anxiety had been expressed for his safety, and blue lights were kept burning during the night, which is customary when any danger is appre- ^ 196 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. hended ; b^t the lights were not seen by him. A qaestion had arisen, whether in the event of the Commodore's he* ing lost, we should return iminediately to the United State^ or proceed on our voyage round the world ; bbt happily our discussions proved useless. During our stay at this place we fared luxuriouslj. Our table was graced with the finest green Jturtle soup, with fowls cooked in a variety of methods, and with des- serts of the richest fruit. The turtles were well flavored and juicy. The natives at first demanded a dollar for a couple of fowls, but were afterwards glad to accept that sum for twenty. Besides pomegranates, cocoa-nuts, dz>c. we obtained an abundance of the mangosteen, or mangiss, as the Ma- lays called it, the quality of which cannot be too highly extolled. A man might eat a peck of this fruit at a time, without the least inconvenience. The pulp only is eaten, which forms a small proportion of the whole. Trade was carried on with the natives principally by barter, but we found it very difficult to bargain with them ; they were too shrewd and keen even for a Yankee, When some of the ** middies" got the better of them in a bargain, there was great hallooing and jabbering among them. Our chief articles of* trade were fancy handkerchiefs, jackknives, navy buttons, glass bottles, tin boxes, and looking-glasses. With the latter they were particularly pleased. It was pro- bably the first time they had eVer seen their own faces. They wore the navy buttons about their persons as or- naments. CHINESE BOATS. 137 I / Daring our excursions of pleasure on shore, we ob- lained some rare specimens of shells, for the friends who were far from us. The crew were daily employed in obtaining wood and water for the ship, but the latter was of bad quality, as the diowers at night rendered it turbid. On the eighteenth we sailed from Pangoringan, and the next day anchored in Batavia roads, nearly seven miles from the shore, in the vicinity of several small islands. We were shortly afterwards visited by two of our country- men from the city, and by a lieutenant of a Dutch sloop of war in the harbor. The next mornipg we were surrounded by a large aomber of Chinese boats, filled with an immense variety of articles for sale. This was the first time I had seen a ChiQaman, and a multitude of strange thoughts crowded upon me, as I surveyed him. He is remarkable for his high cheek bones and long hair. On seeing this last ap- pendage, which hung down below the joints of the knee, I was reminded of the periwigs and long queues which were in fashion in the days of my early childhood. We were visited by Chcojoly Jangthay^ whom we en** * The following is a specimen, verbatim et literatim, of one of his bills, written in a tolerably fair band : "Ur. Cock Pit mess on Board the Ship Potama Dp. for the Provisian to Chawly Jangthay 1832 March 27 to 6 Loove Bread " 1 Cabbges " 1 1-2 lbs. Casses (cassia) *» 100 nelmeg to 25 PumbloawB (pumple'no8es)t '* 2 Turkey " a netmeg Grian (nutmeg-gra- ter) " a Cock sglow (cork-screw.) t A fruit of pleuant aeid tute, rasembliiif in ahape h large oranfe- It is aometintifet called AiMoek, from a captnin of ibat naina, who carried it from the Eaat to the Waet Indiee. 138 CRUISE OF THE POTOBfAC. gaged as '^comprador" for the ship, during our stay. Like the other Chinamen, he wore neither shirt nor cra> vat, but was dressed simply in large trowsers of blue nan- keen, made like bags, and a short jacket, hanging loosely upon his body, with a conical hat on his head. He could talk a little English, and w^ found him an amusing old fellow. On Saturday, the twenty-fourth, <& party consisting of Lieut. Ingersoll, Mr. Godon, Mr. Stansbury, Dr. Foltz, and myself, left the ship to make our first debut at the city of Batavia. We had a fine sail till we came near the mouth of the river Jacatra. Vessels of almost every de- scription, Dutch, French, English, and Siamese, besides several Malay prows and Chinese junks, were seen in the roads. These junks are almost non-descripts, being huge, unwieldy hulks, bearing but little resemblance to a ihip4 They have a fore and mainmast, but no bowsprit, mizen, or topmasts. The mainmast is nearly in the same place as in our vessels, but the foremast stands farther fiyrward^ near where our bowsprit projects. Two eyes are painted, one on each side, near the bow, to enable the junk to see its way through the water ! The sails are a sort of mat, fastened to strips of bamboo. On this occasion, the rudder was hoisted out of the water, perhaps for the purpose of seasoning. The anchors are made of a very hard species of wood. There are apartments in each of these vessels for the accommodation of adven- turers. Persons wishing to make voyages in such a ves- sel, with articles for traffic, have rooms assigned them, in which they must stow all their effects. RIVER JACATRA, 139 I No improTement has been made in these Chinese inter craft for centuries, and if any alterations are sug* Cted, their owners will not listen to them, for fear of in- ring the suspicion of barbarism. Thousands of junks te lost every year, in consequence of the unskilfulness 4 their navigators, who sail only when they 'have a fair monsoon, and are obliged, generally, to employ either Botch or Portuguese pilots. , The Siamese vessel that we saw, was very gaudily painted, and displayed much finery. It carried a few guns, the muzzles of which were painted red. The crew were Pressed in red clothes. As we entered the river, the first objects that present- M themselves from the shore, were hundreds of convicts tt work in their chains. They were making a jetty or pier, to cover the whole bar, that ships might come up with nfety. The scaffolding was formed of bamboos, and the timbers were driven down by a huge wooden machine, the operation of which they accompanied by a rude kind f«f music, similar to " Yo heave Ol" A superintendent, with his wand, was standing ov^r them, to see that they tttended well to their work. We were rowed some distance up the river by a dozen Malays, when they suddenly neared the shore, jumped out, and *' tracked '' the boat along, by a rope made hat ! to the bow, the coxswain taking care not ^o let it strike igamst the embankments of the river. After proceeding in this way some distance, they were relieved by a horse, which was harnessed for a similar service. This was pro- 140 CRUISB OF THE POTOMAC. Tided by the Dutch goyerament, and is a compliment pai( only to boats belonging to ships of war that have the ped ant flying. We glided along as pleasantly as^if on a fine cans of our own country. The city of Batavia had rather ( dull appearance from the harbor, occasioned by its bei]i| so screened by tall trees as to leave but few houses Tui ble. But in proceeding up the river, a new scene opeitt Elegant commercial houses are ranged on each side, within a few rods of the river, for the convenience of dii patching and receiving cargoes. . Men and women an also seen sitting under the shadow of trees, having befoM them ^bles curiously constructed of bamboo, called " bir lie balie,'' with various kinds of fruit, sweetmeats, and cooling drinks spread upon them for sale. We were stop* ped at the custom-house by the officers, but were soon permitted to pass on, as we had no contraband goods in our possession. This was the only time during ourcruise, that we suffered this indignity. We observed, while passing up the river, a Chinesi marriage procession, composed of men, women, and chik dren, moving with great pomp over a bridge constructsij upon stone arches. Two men, dressed in scarlet smaB^ clothes, and wearing cocked hats, preceded the groip bearing large tranikparent lanterns, beautifully paintedi They were followed by a number of persons, with tbci^ heads uncovered, dressed in white. Then came the coadj containing the bride and groom, which was gorgeoufl| decorated with gold leaf, while the horses were caparisoa^ MR. FaRESTIER. 141 •d in the gayest manner. The masicians, gaudily dressed^ irere playing upon bamboo flutes, accompanied with the jbgliog of bells, making a kind of music which to my ear Ins any thing but ** the touches of sweet harmony." I ikw the procession, ■ afterwards, in front of a house, and tas told that it was customary for the bride and groom to ride in this way three days, before the marriage ceremony ms performed. Immediately upon landing we called at the office of Mr. Forestier, where we were courteously received. Thii gentleman was born in tlvB Isle of France, but was educa- ted in the family of Gen. De^by, of Salem, Mass. He has been engaged in the mercantile business at Batavia, for •everal years, and has amassed & handsome fortune. Car- riages were soon in readiness, and we drove to a commodi- ous hotel, three miles from the city, kept by Mr. Sholong, a Frenchman. This house is delightfully situated in the midst of cocoa and banana trees. Near by is a large garden well supplied with tropical fruits. It is a very extensive establishment, hs a large hall in the centre, and parlors for private iadividuals in each corner of the building. The lodging nnois, in an adjoining building, are spacious and airy^ tod well adapted to warm climates. It originally belonged to a gentleman who occupied it as a country residency. ' This is a fair specimen of the genteel residences in Bata- ta. The servants wlio attended us were all Malays, who ^ very intelligent countenances, and could speak a little ^Dglish, They dress the hair much aftei* the manner of 13 142 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. our Shaker females, suffering it to grow quite loDg, thei combiog it back from the forehead, and confining it on the top of the head, foy means of a handkerchief bound oyer it, thus answering the purposes of a comb. After a survey of the premises, and treating ourselves to some fine fruit and a glass of wine at the hotel, we took a driTe through the business part of the city. Here carriages are seen at the door of every factory, waiting to convey the proprietor about the city, as it is not customary for wealthy citizens to walk, especially in the middle of the day. We called at several fancy shops, where was ei^hibited a large assortnient of China ware, a variety of box^s, baskets, and fans, made by the Japanese and Chinamen, spice boxes made at the island of Amboyna, and other curiosities too numerous for detail. On our return to the hotel, we partook of a good din- ner, consisting of several courses, such as roast beef, mat- ton chops, curried fowls, rice, d&c, with a dessert of frnit, oranges, shaddocks, and mangosteens, with wine, porter, and cold water. Desirous of spending our time to the bfest advantage, we seated ourselves in a barouche, drawn by four fine horses, and started in high glee for a ride into the country. Our ride extended six or seven miles, and we were highly delighted with our excursion. The scenery in and about Batavia is beautiful. Ni ture reigns in all her primeval grandeur. Shade trees numerous, which, together with fine pebbled roads, much to the charms of the place. Our first course wi ride; into the countrt. 143 the governor's palace, an elegant and spacious build- g, situated on the plain of Weltrefrieden. We passed e pillar erected by the Dutch, in commemoration of the lebrated battle of Waterloo. They take much of the e and glory to themselves, one of their officers having inguished himself on that occasion. Before returning we called upon our consul, Mr. Shillabar, who received OS very cordially. He then resided with Mr. Perkins, an American, who received his education in New-£ngland« We lefl his neat residence, and were soon rolling over the ground in grand style, our foiotman running by the side of oor horses, holding a lighted flambeau. Soon tired of thi?, he took a seat on the outside of the carriage, so as to throw I brilliant light directly in our faces. This is the common method of riding here in the evening. On reaching the hotel, we found an agreeable party, composed chiefly of our own countrymen. A jolly young Scotchman, whom we had formerly met at Cape Town, passed a part of the ereuing with us, and by his wit and good humor contribu- ted much to our amusement. Commodore Downes returned in the evening from Baitenzorg, where he had been to pay a visit to the gover- nor of Java. This is a small village, about forty miles Crom Batavia. Its name signifies, in the language of the Dutch, rural care. It was a strong military post in 1811^ belonging to the French, but was taken by the British, at the time they took possession of Batavia. The next morning, before we '' turned out,'' a servant entered our rooms and presented us a cup of hot coffee. 144 CKU18E OF THE POTOMAC. according to the custom of the coantry. At eight o'cIocIl breakfast was announced. This consisted of curried fowl, boiled rice, salad, and cofiee and tea. I returned to the ship about eleven o'clock, with the Commodore in his biirge, and had a boisterous passage off^ as the water was rough. I omitted to mention, among the norelties I witnessed on shore, a Chinese funeral procession. This was con- ducted in a very solemn manner. The remains of the deceased, placed in a solid and spacious coffin, formed of four thick planks, were borne on the shoulders of six stout Chinamen, and followed by the mourning relatives, all dressed in white, with clumsy umbrellas in their hands, to protect them from the piercing rays of a tropical sun. The children carried dishes containing various kinds of fruit and sweetmeats, to he left on the tomb for the depart- ed spirit of the deceased, and a pot with sticks of sandal wood to be kept in coutini^al burning. The Chinese mani- fest little fear of death. It is customary with them^ to keep a coffin near the door, of each dw.elling,ln readiness for use, in case of the decease of any member of the family. They believe in the transmigration of souls, and suppose that when a person dies, his spirit may nett inhabit some animal of the brute creation. How rational and consoling are the doctrines and practices of heathenism I I I CHAPTER XIH. Twt at Mr. Medhurst's— -Missionary Qperations-y-Mrs. Medhurst— Ride into the country— Scenery— Anecdote— A rich planter assassi- nated by his slaves— Depok— Religious worship— Malay school. I LANDED the next day at an early hour and call6d at Mr. Forestier's, where I found oar chaplain, with an invi- tation from Rev. Mr. Medhurst, to whom I had been pre- viously introduced, to pass a few days with him in the country. A ride of five miles brought us to his residence at Parapattan. Mr. Medhurst received me very cordially, and introduced me to his wife and family. He lives in a "bungalow," a comfortable dwelling of one story, sur- rounded with a veranda, and containing one spacious sit- ting room, and several convenient bed-chambers. The word bungalow is a corruption of Bengalee, and is the general name for any building in the cottage style. Mr. Medhurst is an Episcopal clergyman, supported by the London Missionary Society. He is a man of ardent piety, and of a resolute and decided character. He has resided at Batavia many years, a^nd his labors have been crowned with success, and we trust that through his iDBtri>- 13» 146 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC, ( mentality, multitudes more will not only read, but under- stand the '' words which are spirit and are life/' The missionary grounds cover an area of four acres. There are about twelve buildings at the station, the prin- cipal of which are a chapel and three bungalows. The chapel is fifty-six feet by forty-two, including verandas and a small printing office, which is in the rear of the chapel. Four Malays are employed in printing, after the method pursued in our own country. A Chinese is en- gaged as copyist for the lithographic press; he transcribes from works on parchment in the Chinese language. There are four schools : two Chinese, one Knglish, and one Malay. There are but few Malay scholars, as the Mohammedans are prejudiced against sending their chU- dren to schools under the superintendence of foreigners. Mr. Medhurst, at the time of my visit, had two young men with him, Mr. Young and Mr. Keasberry^ preparing for the ministry. They rendered him valuable assistance in his multiplied labors. The latter has since come to this country to complete his education. Mrs. Medhurst is a very intelligent and interesting woman, and withal an excellent housewife. Her table was neatly and plentifully spread during my stay at her house, and every attention shown me calculated to make the time pass pleasantly. In the evening, after worship with his own family, Mr. Medhurst meets some twenty or more Malays living upon the missionary grounds, for prayer and religious instruc- tion. Those exercises are full of interest. He first offers MR. MKDBURST. 147 a short prayer, then reads a portion of Scripture, which he explains to them. A hymn is then sung, in which all join. The effect of this service on the servants hi salu- tary, and several of thei|fi have embraced the Christian religion. Mr. Medhurst has an extensive English library^ besides a small one of Chinese and Japan works. Some of the latter contain most ludicrous representations of men with a dozen heads, arms, and legs. I< noticed many drawings of birds and animals, which were very correct. The Ja- panese, like the Chinese, excel in drawing animals, fishes, birds, and insects; but they entertain most ridiculous ideas of mankind, in supposing that, there are races of hu- man beings with countless numbers of heads^ feet, &c. I heard here of Mr. Gutzlaff, and of his indefatigable labors in Siam. He had embarked on board a junk for China, bound to Sing Hae, a place near Pekin. Mr. Abeel, an American missionary, had been at Ita- tavia, for the purpose of ascertaining the state of religion among the degenerated Dutch • churches there, but he found no kindred spirits among the Dutch ministers of the place. They did not return his call, or answer the letter which he gave them from the Dutch Reformed churches in America. He was kindly received by Mr. Medhurst, who ^ke of him in the highest tbrms. I did not have the pleasure of seeing him, as he had embarked for Siam a short time previous to our arrival. Mr. Medhurst is ehiployed by the Dutch government to preach occasionally at a little village, called Depok; sit- 148 CRUISS OF THS POTOMAC. uated about twenty -five miles distant from his place of resi- dence. This village is inhabited by Malay Protestants, now amounting to six hundred persons of all ages, two hundred of whom are nominally Christians. It originally belonged to a Dutch gentleman, who owned a large num- ber of jslaves. He promised to give them their freedom, provided they would embrace the Christian religion. They assented to the proposition, and their posterity ha?e nowj for nearly a century, enjoyed many privileges and blessings unknown to the rest of their countrymen. As Wednesday, the twenty-eighth, was one of the days appointed for Mr. Medhurst tO make an official visit at this settlement, Mr. Grier and myself were invited to accompany him. We accordingly seated ourselves in a post-coach drawn by four horses, at four o'clock in the morning, anticipating a delightful ride through a rich and beautiful country. We'had, besides our driver, two out- riders, and our mode of travelling was rapid and pleasant. We passed over the famous battle ground, where a splen- did victory was gained by the British over the French, on the twenty-sixth of August, 1 81 1. That was the first step towards the subjugation of the whole island of Java to British power. This island was, however, restored to the Dutch in 1814. On each side of the road are splendid villas and man- sions, occupied as country residences by people of wealth and refinement, surrounded by beautiful grass plats, adorned with flowers and shrubbery tasteAilly arranged, affording a pleaisinjg sight to the eye, and rendering the air ANECDOTB. 149 ! fragrant by their exhalations. The country is exceedingly fertile, and cohered at ail seasons with the freshest ver* dare ; and the highly cultivated fiehis and thickly wooded groves, with thatched cottages, interspersed in charming miety, rendered the scene to us truly delightful. Afler having been for most of the time, for some months previous, on board ship, my vision confined to the ** watery waste'' and boundless horizon, I was well pre- r pared to enjoy an excursion of this kind. My suscepti- bilities were alive to the beauties of nature, and I had a koen relish for " rural sights and rural sounds." Besides , this, it was not a little gratifying to listen to the converse* tion of a man so interesting ^nd intelligent as was Mr. Medhurst. He spoke of subjects relating to the country ' through which we were passing; and mentioned several loecdotes, one of which interested me very nrach. A gentleman and lady, it seems, were riding along very leisurely, attended by their siervants, when their progress was suddenly arrested by the appearance of a huge tiger, which sprung from his covert, seized one of the horses at- tached to the carriage, and threw him to the ground. All were very much alarmed for their safety^ but a powerful weapon, effectually wielded by the hand of one of the ser- vants, held the ferocious animal in check, and finally oldiged him to fiee to the forest; and their lives were happily preserved from danger. Mr. Medhurst pointed out to me an extensive plantation, i which not long since had been occupied by a wealthy gen- tleman, who owned a large number of alavesi He met 150 CRUI8K OF THE POTOMAC. his death by'violence. The gentleman had been one ere* ning walking in his .veranda, when he. was induced to go into the house by hearing a strange noise. To his utter amazement he found his wife wehering in blbod, having died by the hand of a Malay, who immediately came to- wards him and buried his creese in hb bosom; A child, r whom the assassin had wounded, fled and gave the alarm. The slaves meanwhile escaped with the murderer. A part of them were apprehended, confined in the Calabozo, and afterwards tried, but as .sufficient evidence of their guilt could not be obtained, they were acquitted. It was reported that this gentleman had ill treated his slaves. This was the cause of his assassination, as it is the nature of a Malay to revenge an injury. We found relays of post-horses, and fresh runners sta- tioned along the road at intervals of every six miles^ for the convenience of travellers.' High sheds with thatched roofs are erected over the road at these places, sufficiently large to accommodate two carriages, where passengers can be protected from the intense heat of the stin during the operation of changing horses. At one of these stop- ping places, we found horses in readiness for Gov. Van den Bosch, but as we arrived first, they were attached to our carriage. In consequence of these relays, we were enabled to pass over the ground as rapidly as we could wish, and by seven o'clock were half way to Buitenzorg, the residence of the governor of Java. We stopped at the villa of Van Biscum, where we left our coach and took fresh saddle horses. Our route was RIDE TO D]SPOK« 151 now orer «i almost trackless path, through a fine section ' of the country, beautifully diversified with picturesque I aeenery, romantic hills, «nd woodland glades, " O'er val- ; kjs fair as ^den's bowers," across rivulets, and through ; deep ravines. We should have met with many a sad acci- I dent, had not our, ponies been remarkably sure footed. I was surprised to see how easily they conquered all the difficulties of the path, making their way over rolling peb- ; bles and fragments of rock, and planting their feet firmly as I they ascended some very steep acclivities. These little I creatures are very beautiful, as well as exceedingly active and vigorous. Afler riding a few miles in this way, we reached the river Jacatra, where a" number of Malays I were bathing. To one of them^ who was swimming to- wards me, I gave my horse in charge, and crossed the rirer myself on a bamboo rafl, managed by two of the na- tives. Just before landing, my ears were saluted by the ebeering sounds of the church going bell. It was a mo- ment of thrilling interest, and I was at once reminded of my own happy <2oun try, and friends, and times gone by. The place was highly rbmantic, and the deep tones of the bell, echoing and re-echoing amid the hills and dales, and sending its plaintive melody among the simple habi- tations of the native villagers, raided in my mind a train of feelings of the most agreeable nature ; and I could truly say with the poet, I " Its distant-echoes faint and fleet. Could music's softest tones excel ; I Nor knew mine ear a strain more sweet, Than thine, harmonious village bell." i We ascended the banks of the river by a, flight of IBSt CRUISE- OF TBI POTOMAC. ■tone 8t6p0, and soon reached the house of the chief man q the village, where we found a fine repast provided for ui The house, constructed of planks, is long and narrow with a tiled roof, and has a veranda on one side of it I is surrounded by handsome shade trees, which give i quite a rural appearance. The furniture of. the house i plain and simple, consisting of but few articles, and these merely for comfort and convenience. In the room where we breakfasted, I observed several creeses, enclosed in silver scabbards, and suspended from the walls. We were reminded, by the chiming of the village bell, that the hour for public worship had arrived. A well- dressed native came to inform us, that the people were assembled at the church, in readiness for the preacher. The church is a neat little building, situated oh a gentle elevation, a short distance from the village. It is con- structed of stone or brick, whitewashed oh the outside, and is sufficiently large to accommodate two or three hun- dred people. The clerk, a venerable looking Malay about fifty years of age^ commenced the exercises by reading a chapter in the Bible. He was dressed in European cos- tume, a long black coat, with pantaloons of the same color, and a white cravat. It was pleasing to witness this as- sembly of natives, all neatly clad, and simple and unassum- ing in their appearance, and I heartily wished that some of the enemies of missions could have been present, to witness the good which the introduction of Christiaoity has effected among these uncultivated natives. They ap- peared very devotional, and a deep solemnity seemed to pervade their minds. It might be well for other Christian MALAY SCHOOL. 153 pusembiies to learn a lesson from them in this respect. The congregation, generally, was more solemn, and gave better attention to the servicesi, than many I have' witness- ed in our own country. The singing was simple and plaintive, and though '' no pealing anthem swelled its note «f' praise," yet, as the sounds would gradually rise and M, increase and die away, it seemed " That holy, heavenly melody, The music of a thankfiil heart," aod as such, I listened to it with much satisfaction. Mr. Medhorst's discourse was delivered in the Malay language. The subject was the love of the Saviour to a iost and ruined world. The^people listened with deep in- terest, and when prayer was finished, and the benediction pronounced,' the people quietly returned to their respective homes. I afterwards visited the school situated in the vicinity of the church, and was gratified by recognizing in the teacher, the venerable clerk, who had divested himself of his robes of office, and was now acting the part of a peda- gogue, in his simple Malay dress. There were about thirty pupils in the school ; some of them were writing, while others were attentively reading, the tasks assigned them. I found many of the conveniences for rearing " the tender thought," similar to those we have in our own country, and came away favorably impressed with the god order which prevailed. Upon returning to the house where we first topped, I ibond a pleasant repast provided for us by our host. One dish, prepared from the young shoots of the bamboo^ was 14 164 CRUIBS OP THE POTOMAC. very palatable, and was entirely different in taste from any thincr I had before eaten. It had been the intention of Mr. Medhurst to meet the people of the village at the school-house, in the afternoon, for the purpose of giving them instruction ; but as the weather was unpleasant, they assembled in classes at the house of the head man of the village. The first class were from the ages of six to fourteen, and were thirty-two in number. Mr. Medhurst heard them read, and after asking them some questions from a small book made by their late pastor, expounded to them a portion of Scripture. He then examined their writing-books, gave them such instruction as he thought necessary, and closed the exer- cises with prayer. After these pupils were dismissed, another class assembled, from the ages of fourteen to thirty- five. Some of them were very intelligent, and answered the questions put to them readily., Mr. Medhurst accom- panied the answers with suitable remarks. The elderly people listened with attention, and seemed pouich gratified. The former pastor of this village was a very devoted Christian, and an instrument of accomplishing much good among his people. He died some years since, and there is now no regular preaching in the place. It is to be feared that much of the instruction he gave his little flock, will be lost, for want of a suitable person to supply his place. This is a good field for missionary labor. I waa delighted with my visit at this village. The weather con- tinued unpleasaht through the aflernoon, but as we were occasionally favored with sunshine amid the showers, we thought best to take our departure for Batavia. CHAPTER XIV. Tisit at Mr. MedhurBt's— A ride— Appearance of the country— A Chi- nese temple — Ceremonies— Mr. Medhurst addresses the people- Distribution of tracts — Idol worship — Fire worshipers— Passing through the fire — Antiquity of the Chinese — Reflections. . I WAS on shore on the third of April, and paid a second visit to the Rev. Mr. Medhurst. He informed me that the Chinese ceremony o( passing through the Jirt was to take plac^ that afternoon, at a distance of about six miles, and with his accustomed ^politeness invited me to take a seat with him in his carriage. As most of the route was impassable for vehicles, in consequence of the bad state of the roads, Mr. Medhurst sent two Malay serv- ints on horseback as pioneers, giving them instructions to ride on to the end of the carriage route, and then to halt and await our arrival. After partaking of a hasty meal, or as it is called here, a tiffin, we pYoceeded on our way. We pursued the main road about three miles, when, over-, taking our servants, we mounted bur horses and struck off into a narrow pathway, which led ha through a country 156 CBUME OF THE POTOMAC. beautifully interspersed with green meadows, fields of rice and groves of the mangosteen. When within half a mile of the place where this superstitious rite was to be per- formed, a scene presented itself to our view of surpassing beauty. It was a sequestered spot in the midst of a vast plain, far from any human habitation. An air of enchant- ment seemed thrown aroiind it, strongly reminding me of fairy regions, that led me almost to doubt the reality of what I saw. All those associations and feelings which were awakened within me in my early days, by the peru- sal of legendary tales and fabulous romances, thronged upon me ; but more especially was the remembrance of those . scenes in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, and the delight with which I read them, revived, and I could almost, isven now, fancy myself in the city of the magicians, among those worshipers of fire. Giving our horses Here in charge to some Malays, we proceeded to the spot on foot, across a paddy field, and over a light foot bridge, about three feet wide, constructed of split bamboo. When we arrived, about two thousand people had assembled, consisting of Chinese and Msdays, chiefly of the former, and multitudes were still collecting. They were habited in every variety of shade and color, from sable black to snowy white, and many of them were magnificently dressed* On one side of the square, was a large scaffolding, raised for the accommodation of the spectators. On the opposite side was a grove of trees, which served the pur* poses of shade and ornameut. In the centre was ^ huge CHINESE TEMPLE. 157 pile of coals, over which a large fan was swung by two persons, one on either side, for the purpose of igniting them. This fan was made of split bamboo, woven like India matting, containing several square yards, and attached to a handle about sixteen feet in length, At some distance beyond, was a Chinese temple, and as we were half an hoar too early for witnessing the cere- mony, we paid a visit to that place of the gods of the land. There was nothing particularly striking in its structure, bat being the first Chinese temple that I ever beheld, and situated as it was in this fairy region, every thing connect- ed with it wore to me an aspect of novelty. Its front and sides were supported by a large number of columns, the base and capitals of which, were adorned with a variety of tawdry ornaments, and fastened to each shaft were num- bers of small images, gorgeously "dressed and armed with spears and swords, the guards or tutelary saints of the temple, stationed there for the purpose of warding off evil genii ! On crossing the threshhold, we found within the sanctuary itself their shrines and abominations. In the rear, or what might be called the chancel, were arranged on the altar-piece about a dozen idols, richly attired in Bcarfs and ribbons of various hues, red, yellow, &c. In front of them were tables, loaded with all manner of obla- tions and sacrificed, such as fowls, fish, hogs' heads, and a great variety of sweetmeats and conserves, all of which were tastefully decorated. Altars were erected in different parta of the temple^ 14* 158 CRU18E OF THE POTOMAC. before which were placed the same variety of offermgs. Incense and wax tapers were burning, filling the house with their odors. Near the outer court was an open shed, erected for the temporary accommodation of the theatrical corps, consisting of two apartments. When we arrived, harlequins and musicians were already mounted upoa it, and the actors were performing. The dramatis persowu were to appearance, a man, a woman, and a little girl, bat I afterwards understood that they WBre all females of oo very uncertain character. They were apparelled in a fantastic and ridiculous manner, and their performances were to me not only puerile, but indecent in the extreme, yet they created much merriment for the Chinese by their efforts at drollery, A female personage appeared first on the stage. She boldly faced the spectators, went through with divers odd motions and gesticulations, exhibiting the greatest affectation imaginable, occasionally singing a plaintive air in a moanful manner. A male personage next entered, who I concluded was her lover. A short dialogue ensued between them, spoken in a complaining recitative. The play ended by the en- trance of a little girl, and one of the couple giving her a hearty kiss. As to the subject of the farce, I was entirely ignorant, bat judged it to be some love affair. It was highly inddi- cate throughout. After lingering about for a while, I found upon reen- tering the temple, my reverend friend seated in one comer of it, discoursing in an elegit and fervent manner to a MR. MEDHUR9T ADDRESSES THE PEOPLE. 160 crowd of people around him. He held in his hand a bundle of Chinese and Malay tracts, when, without his soli- citation, numbers of the people approached him and re- quested copies. This was an encouraging sight, and I could not but hail it as an omen of good, and indulge the food hope that the healthful beams of the gospel might yet be shed on this degraded people, and that the voice of the Christian instructor might at no distant day be heard, and scenes of Christian worship be every where witnessed among them. Until quite recently, with his most zealous eflforts, his most earnest and urgent entreaties, Mr. Med- hurst could not prevail upon either a Chinese or a Malay, to accept of a sipgle pamphlet. Now they are eagerly sought for and read. Formerly the people would not listen (0 his conversation with any degree of attention, but now they seemed to take a deep interest in whatever fell from his lips. Like those vernd breezes which animate all nature, such scenes as these come pleasantly over the feel- ings of the missionary, strengthening his hopes and cheer- ing him through his long and arduous way. As the crowd began to collect around the principal altar of the temple, we drew near, and found the high priest deeply engaged in prayer to the gods, for their as- nstance in the ensuing ceremonies. In^his right hand he held a bell, in his left a ram's horn, and while bowing very low before the altar, he would alternately ring the bell and blow ^he horn. The air echoed, at intervals, with the sound of gongs, kettle-drums, and other instruments. 160 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. beaten by a band of musicians stationed near him, in the most vehement and furious manner. In connection with the usual offerings, and the burning of incense on the altar, was a salt-cellar, in Conformity to ancient usages, that " every offering shall be seasoned with salt,"* also- a bowl, containing the "clean water and hys- sop," into which he occasionally dipped his finger, and with it sprinkled himself and the place around him. These ceremonies being finished, the priests moved on in a pro- cession, followed by the multitude, and took a station near the great fire, where they repeated nearly the same cere- monies. The principal priest appeared very devout And earnest in his petitions. He had wrought himself up to so high a pitch of frenzy, that'the perspiration poured in streams from his face. Three other priests beside him assisted on the occasion. The fire was of live coals, about twelve or fourteen feet in diameter, and more than iwo feet deep. The ceremony commenced by the waving of the large Chinese black flag several times over the fire, by one' of the men. In the centre of the flag I noticed some large let- ters in gold leaf, signifying the king of the datk heaven. The high priest approached the fire, and marched around it in a reckless manner, puffing, and occasionally blowing a blast with his ram's horn. He next took the sait, and sprinkled it over the coals, and did the same thing with the *' clean ifSLter and hyssop." - He repeated * Mi^k iz. 49. Lev. iL 13. PASSING THROUGH THE FIRE. 161 his circular march as before, blowing his ram's horD, and casting into the fire a few strips of paper, stamped with Chinese characters. The assistant priest then brought him a richly hilted' sword, and several small flags of various colors, made ap- parently of paper. His feverish brain began now to reel. Like one made desperate, he became wild with frenzy. He blew his horn longer anfl louder than before, and cut the air with his sword, for the purpose of repelling evil spirits; for the Chinese believe that on such occasions the air is filled with them. Loiid shouts of triumph were beard amid the crowd, as three idolaters came rushing down from the temple, bearing in their arms the idol gods. Apart of the multitude attempted to prevent their pro- gress, by casting every possible impediment in their way, but this only inspired them with redoubled energy,, believ- ing that the gods which they bore would assist them, and enable theni to break down every barrier, and overcome every obstacle. , The tumult now becanie greater than ever. A tre- mendous rush was made towards the fire, where an exten- sive circle was formed ; and so great was the excitement, that had I not at the time been firmly braced, I must in- evitably have been either crushed to death, or borne into the living embers. An opening was immediately made in the ring, and the devotees with the gods in their arms, headed by the priests, rushed barefooted through the midst of the flames ; and so eager were the people to behold what was passing, that the police could with great difficulty 102 CRUISE OF THB POTOMAC. control them, and pre?ent their breaking over the moundi of their 'authority. The idolaters now began literally to *' inflame thenn selves with idols/' and to be mad upon them. They passed and repassed through the fire several times in quick sac- cession. In this confusion and high state of excitement, one man lost his hat, which was nearly burnt up, and an- other let fall one of the gods into the fire, which, had it not been instantly plucked out by some kind and good- natured man standing near, must have been consumed. At length one of these fanatics fell down, as in a swoon, apparently dead. Whether this was a mere feint, or whether it was the result of extreme exhaustion, I am unable to say ; but am inclined to think that it was the former. He was hastily seized by some of the attendants, car- ried to the temple, and placed upon his back wiihin the chancel, near the altar. The fanatical agitations of the populace were now so great, and the rush to this spot so tremendous, that it was with the greatest difficulty I could approach near enough to witness what passed. The roaa lay for some time, apparently lifeless, when suddenly, u though roused from some horrid and frightful dreano, be sprang upon his feet, exhibiting in his countenance tht wildest expression, %nd was immediately seized by aboot half a dozen men of gigantic strength, standing near, who with their utmost exertions were scarcely able to boM^ htm. Afler struggling for some time in their arms, displayini IDOL W0R8UIF. 163 treat strength, he again became as in a lifeless state. The ligh priest, the same that preceded him through the fire, hen tried the power of incantations, for the purpose of re- rtoring him to life. He would stamp upon the floor in the most frightful nanner, rin'g his bell, and crack his whip at a furious rate. At length the master of ceremonies commenced supplica- ting the gods to restore the soul to the man, but he was immediately reproved by ohe of the bystanders, who said, "You fool, the god is not there, the god, is in the man," ind accordingly he commenced worshipping the appa- rently dead man. Strange that human beings should wor- ship gods that need such protection. The place now le-echoed with the sound of gongs, drums, cymbals, bells, and in short, with every instrument that could be put in requisition. The noise was discordant and deafening. The man was soon' resuscitated, for what might not be ex- pected from such a heterogeneous demonstration of musical skill! He was then informed by the master of ceremonies that he must present an offering to the gods, and return thanks to them, for restoring his soul to him. This done, the scene closed. How severely these idolaters were bornt, I could not accurately ascertain. ^ That they were greatly injured was evident enough, and it could scarcely he otherwise, as their limbs and feet were perfectly bare, i was informed that when such an exhibition is over, the be devotees are confined to their dwellings for a conside- nUetime, and that they immediately put their feet int6 line-water, to remove the soreness. The priest, and the 164 CRtJISe OF THE POTOMAC. train of votaries who accompaaied him through the fire, were hired for the occasion, according to the usual cus- tom, and received a handsome reward for it. The persons are never of the first rank, but are chosen from the lower orders of society. The whole scene has left upon my own mind a strong impression of the extreme degradation into which the idolatrous Chinese are fallen. Their belief in evil genii has a strong resemblance to that of the Jews in former ages, and they seem to have imitated them in their brutal defilements and abomina- tions. On many accounts the present spectacle v^as interest- ing. The great excitement, the multitude of spectators in coaches and carriages, on the stagings and scaffoldings, and in the trees ; the torturing anxiety depicted in their countenances, and their different shades of dress, exhibit- ed a novelty of appearance that can hardly be imagined. The Chinese are an ancient people, and are said not to yield in antiquity to any nation on earth, though their boasts on this subject are to be doubted. Certain it is, that they have handed down their customs from times as far back as the lights of tradition reach, and even now they seem to be in a primitive state, both as to manners and customs. In witnessing this ceremony, I was strongly reminded of scenes described in the Old Testament, when folly and vice had their appropriate religions, as well as virtue and true knowledge ; and when timbrels and kettle-drums were beaten to Moloch, in connection with human sacrifi- ces. We there read of children pausing through the Jire, PASSING THROUGH THE FIRE. 165 and of their being sacrificed to the gods, for the purpose ofobtainiDg from them some signal blessing. Moloch was their principal idol, worshipped in particular by the Ammonites, who were gross idolaters. In the histories by the Jewish Rabbins, descriptions are giyen of the man- ner io which the ancient people of the east passed through the fire. Among the superstitions of the ancient Indians, we find it recorded, that they had an annual festival in honor of some one of their gods. This was called the fio&t of fire ^ because they walked oyer that element. The devotees dashed furiously through a glowing fire ex- tending to a distance of forty feet. A similar custom formerly existed among the Druids, on the borders of the Highlands, in Scotland, also in Wales and through the north of Germany. At the present day, when so large a portion of the globe is enlightened, when knowledge has been so extensively diffused, and antiquated errors have been exploded, we scarcely expect to witness the performance of such heathen rites as we beheld on the present occasion; but this bears at least a slight ri^ semblance to those times of midnight darkness, when the air resounded with the shrieks of children offered up as fire offerings tq Baal or Moloch. These idolaters inflict upon themselves, even in this life, a punishment almost as severe as the offending Mohammedans imagine that they shall suffer in '' burning hell " in having their feet shod with shoes of fire. , The present ceremony took place ia fulfilment of* some vows that several of the Chinese had made. It sometimes occurs that when a person is dan- gerously ill, he makes a vow that if he recovers, he will 15 166 CRUISE OP THE POTOMAC. | pass through the, fire, and as this ceremony takes place but once a year, there are usually several in readiness for the occasion. But the vows appear, as in the present instance, to be performed by proxy. From what I here saw of the Chi- nese, I am of the opinion that they have very little respect or reverence for their idols, and much less sincerity in their worship ; a fact which is evident even to the most careless spectator. Assembled around the altars, were numbers laughing immoderately, and lighting their pipes at the wax tapers, and this too in the presence of their most puissant and sacred divinities, near the very sanctum sanctorum, the holy of holies ! From such scenes of ignorance, superstition, and besot- ted idolatry, with what heartfelt sentiments of pleasure and gratitude do we turn to the genius of Christianity. She offers light and knowledge to the meanest and most ignorant subject within the wide range of human wo. She exalts our faculties, refines our taste, and illumines our path in the pursuit of truth. She.lights up our passage to the tomb, benighted pilgrims as We are ; and finally, in the sober evening of life, when the bright illusions of the world have ceased to afford us aay pleasure, she gives us a peaceful haven, where, sheltered from the storms of life, our happiness is full, is fixed, and unalterable. These are among the trophies of Christianity. Under her foster- ing wing, philos<^hy matures her fruits, and man is raised above the level of unassisted nature. None but infideb ^ will deny it. CHAPTER XV. i^ese of Batavia^Houses — ^A Malay mosque— The town honse— Party at Mr. Medhurst's— Character of the people of Batavia— Feast of the tombs— Mode of burial— Sepulchres— Malay pedlars —Chinese temples— Mode of worship— Theatrical performances — Visit to the tomb of a distinguished captain— Religious ceremonies — Dramatic exhibition— Notions of the Chinese respecting their de- ceased relatives —Idol worship— Inscription by Mr. Medhurst on their temple — Character— Visit to a Chmese temple— Missionaries. The next day .we visited several Chinese families, and distributed useful books. In the course of our rambles, vecame to a gambling house, in which a multitude of peo* ^ were collected, playing at cards. Mr. Medhurst, ad- dressing them in their own language, rebuked them for ^^nding their time and money in such a manner. He told them, that by thus squandering their fortunes, they would have nothing wherewith to support their parents. They acknowledged the justness of the remarks, yet the coDTersation produced hut a momentary impression. After t short interval, all resumed their game. The desire of overreaching their neighbors in a bar- gun, and the passion for gaming, are predominant in the Chinese. By exhorting them to the perfornnance of filial 168 CRUISE OF THE POTOBCAC. and parental duties, a greater influence can be gained OTer them, than by any other method. For these duties they have great respect, and their strong attachment to rela* tives, is ofien manifested in hours of trial, and seasons of adversity. At the first house we entered, we were courteously received by a well disposed Chinaman. Mr. Medhurst gave him an account of the ceremony we had witnessed the preceding day. When told that one of the gods fell into the fire, and was on the point of being consumed, he replied, " I believe that of late the gods are losing their power." This was an old man, tottering on the verge of the grave. Happy would it have been for him, had he arrived at this conclusion at an earlier period ! The houses, generally, are low, and but indifferently furnished. At the front of the dtx>r we uspally found ao image of some idol, or a painted dragon, and before this a small altar for the burning of incense. In each bouse are several tablets, on which the names of deceased rela^ tives are inscribed. ' ' ' When a house takes fire, a Chinese feels comparatively at ease, be extensively circulated among them, and their systems of error and delusion would soon be unmasked, and the whole fabric of their now corrupt faith would crumble and fall. We doubt not that Christianity, with its civilizing ef- fects, will soon be felt among that degraded population. It is a subject of regret, that the English government should have transferred this island to the Dutch. For under. British protection a greater amount of good would have been achieved for the natives, much more would have been dobe for the cause of education, and for the various benevolent institutions. Now the missionaries are embarrassed. They are often prohibited the circulation of tracts, and are some- times under the necessity of discontinuing their operations in the midst of their usefulness, in consequence of the interference of the Dutch authorities. The government b more particularly opposed to the instruction of the Ma- lays, from an apprehension that it will elevate them above their sphere, and produce insubordination. How oppressive must that government be, which trem- bles at the circulation of light and knowledge among its subjects ! The permanence of every government ought to depend upon a settled conviction of its excellence on the pari of the governed ; but that the chains of igno- rance should be fastened on a, people by their rulers, that they may continue to practise every species of cruelty and extortion upon them with impunity, is an outrage against which every freeman should lift up his voice. The Malays in Batavia are of a better character than 180 CRUISB OP THE POTOMAC. those of Sumatra. It is true their steps have been too; often dyed in blood, but their piracies are an evidence of their spirit and enterprise ; and all that is necessary is that this spirit and enterprise should be well directed. They have a natural aversion to Christianity, being for the most part of the Mussulman faith. Like the Per- sians they are shrewd and cunning in an argument. The barriers of their prejudice are in some measure giving away. Something is doing, by way of education among them, and a few have embraced the gospel ; those are of a mild and tractable disposition. Mr. Medhurst has seve- ral in his own family who give evidence of piety. The ef- forts that have hitherto been made for this and other islands of the eastern Archipelago, are but as a drop in the oceim. In the neighboring island of Bally, (as we learn from Mr. Medhurst who has travelled over it,) the disconsolate widow is still goaded on by the remorseless idwer, and is cut down ; he fleeth also as a shadow, and coDtinueth not." '^ Man dieth and wasteth away, yea, man giveth up the ghost, and where is he ?" Mr. Oliver was formerly a lawyet in New-Hampshire ; he afterwards had charge of a public school in Boston, where he Was very successful as a teacher. He was gifted by nature with a mind above mediocrity, and possessed a good share of native shrewdness and humor. The hope of recovering his health was among his motives for em- barking on this voyage. But this hope was disappointed, tnd he died at sea on the evening of May 2d, 1892, 1 184 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. without a struggle or a groan. His soul winged its waj to untried realities, and it was left for us only " To bear his remains to the vessel's side, ! And commit them safe to. the dark blue tide." He had been a professed Upitarian, but in his last hours he expressed his full belief in the all sufficiency of the atonement The night of his decease was to me an almost sleep- less one. I was between the dying and the dead. Di- rectly opposite my cot, lay one of the sailors, in a dying state ; I could distinctly hear his groans, while near me was the cold and lifeless clay of Mr.. Oliver^ clad in the habiliments of the grave. Besides this, we experienced a severe storm. The rain descended in torrents^ the wind howled dismally through the rigging, the lightning was fearfully vivid, accompanied by alternate darkness, and the reports of thunder were loud as if the elements were about to be dissolved. Many were seized with consternation, and I expected every moment the ship would be struck ; but He who holds the winds and the waves, directs the tempest, and subdues the raging of the sea, made the storm a calm ; and by his blessing on the exertions of those who commanded the ship, she was soon pursuing her wonted course. The next morning preparations were made for the fu- neral service, and at eleven o'clock the boatswain's cry, " all hands to bury the dead," was heard throughout the ship. Mr. Oliver was buried with the honors of war. The ceremony was as follows : A plaintive air was played bj BURIAL AT SEA. 185 band, as the corpse was conveyed to the quarter-deck. The chaplain and surgeon preceded the corpse, the lieu- Itenants went next ; then followed the midshipmen and officers of the cockpit. A few beats were then struck [upon the muffled drum, and the body was borne to the gang- way, where the marines were drawn up with arms revers- ed. The chaplain commenced reading the solemn burial service. Every ear was attentive, and a deathlike silence reigned throughout the ship. When he pronounced the words, " We therefore commit his body to the deep," the corpse was lowered, one sullen plunge was he^rd, the waters closed over it, and *'The sea rolled on as it rolled before." A feeling of sadness came over us, not easily described. After the chaplain had finished the service, the ensign and pendant were hoisted at half mast, and three rounds were fired by the marine corps. The Commodore then made an address to the officers and men, in behalf of the father- less children of the deceased. He said sailors were pro- verbial for their generosity^ and he hoped the crew of the Potomac would evince that day that they possessed that noble trait in a seaman's character. His appeal produced the desired effect, and the sum of two thousand five hun- dred dollars was contributed for them. Within the short period of twenty-four hours, three of our number were consigned to a watery grave. No marble monument^ markjhe place of their repose. The coral bed is their couch, and the white foam of waves their winding-sheet. It is a melancholy thought, that when a 186 CftUlSE OF THE POTOMAC. man dies, his memory perishes with him. He may live in the remembrance of his friends a few short months, bm they soon mingle with thi living crowd in the busy scenei of life, and he is forgbtten even by them. " Earth's highest station ends in * here he lies,' And dust to dust, concludes the noblest song." The pride of learning, the most brilliant talents, the hon- ors and emohtments of earth, what are they but the tran.< sient pageants of an hour ? *' What are our jovs but dreams^ and what oar hopes But goodly shadows in the summer's cloud 7 * * ♦• ♦♦•♦ « " Not a moment flies but puts its sickle in the field of life, And mows its thousands, with their joys and cares." Scenes change with great rapidity on board a man of war. In consequence of the sickness in the ship, the Commodore thought best to make some alteration in the diet of the men. Rice and curry were therefore served out to them. They bore the change very peaceably for a short time, but finally refused to take the rice, declaring that it was inconsistent with the character of sailors to live! in that way, and large quantities of it were thrown over- board. This incident furnished subject matter for a poem, which was written by one of the sailors, and handed about the ship much to our amusement. Soon after this, the Commodore was amusing himself by dragging for shells, when h6 hooked up a singular looking thing, in the shape of a goblet, large enough to hold several gallons. It was of a yellow colour and of the consistence of leather. As soon as it came on deck there was a general burst of laugh- ter among the sailors. They swore it was Neptune's AN ENGLISH BARQ17E. 187 punch bowl, made of the rice and curry they had thrown pyerboard. On the evening of the fifth,, one of the men rose in his feleep, walked out on the sprit-sail-yard, and remarked to l^me one near him that he was going down. The plash- ing of the water soon gave evidence that he was actually down. The life boat was ordered to be lowered, but his Bold bath had brought him to his senses, and he caught hold of a rope thrown to him, and was soon safe on board. Had we not been, at anchor he must have been lost. Another man who was very sick, rose in the absence of his watcher and plunged into the water through one of the port holes. He was fortunately discovered by a man in the " chains." An oar was thrown out, the life buoy cut away, the lif^ boat lowened, and he was soon brought on board. He died two days after. On the morning of the eleventh, we spoke an En- glish barque, thirty-five days from Calcutta, bound to Can- pou. We had all sails set and came up to her finely, 'Mike k strong man armed to run a race." As we came along Bide of her she lowered her sky-sails, out of respect to us. l*he first lieutenant, Mr. Shubrick, took the trumpet, and in a loud shrill voice said, " Ship ahoy." ** Aye, aye," was the reply. "Where are you from?" ''Calcutta." "How many days out?" "Thirty-five." "Where are jou bound ?" " To Canton." " Have you any news?" " None ; a schooner was bearing down upon us last night" H We are the United States frigate Potomac ; a pleasant royage to you." 188 CRUISE OF TH& POTOMAC. During this conference our ship was in the roost pro- found silence, scarcely a whisper was heard. As the la0t words of the lieutenant brdce upon the ear of the captain of the barque, he raised his hat, the officers followed his example, and our band played ''God save the King." This th^y answered with three cheers. None but those who have sailed ''o'er silent seas*^ for many long and tedious days, can imagine with how much delight a distant sail is greeted, and When on a near^ er approach, words of kindness are exchanged, we feel that we are not alone on the wide waste of waters ; bat that there are living and moving beings, whose joys and pursuits are the same with ours. This little incident served to break the monotony pf otir passage, and contri- buted much to our enjoyment. The eighteenth of May, the cheering sound of 'Mand ahead'' greeted our ears fcom the mast head. It proved to be the island " Asses' Ears," so called from the resem- blance of the two highest peaks to the ears of that inter- esting animal. We next made the Grand Lad rone islands, and shortly afterwards took a Chinese pilot. This seemed indeed like being in a new country, and we could not but feel that we were on the borders of the " Celestial Empire." The pilot was a short, square built personage, resembling il Calmuck Tartar. He was a busy little man, remarkabi] cheerful, and could speak some English. On being quel tioned as to his name, he said " Jimmy Thompson." Hi was quite inquisitive, and wished especially to know JIMMy THOMPSON. 189 «i«me of the Conim6dGre; and nothing could be more itmusing than to hear him undertake to pronounce H. ib was moving about the ship, in every part of it, now on ikd forecastle, now in the gangway, and then on the ^horseblock" on the quarterdeck. We had a fine breeze, int it suddenly freshened a little, and Jimmy was so much leased, that he spoke out, " now makee-walkee shipee.'' iNow the ship walks. Soon afler, the Commodore thun- itied out from the forecastle (where he was standing with immj) to the man at the wheel, '' steady !" Jhnmy, not Pto be out generalled, and to give him a touch of his pro- lessioDal skill, re-echoed the word *' stiddee" in a cracked Toice, much to the amusement of all on deck. During the evening we fell in with numerous small Chinese craft, and came very near running some of them ^wn. The officer of the deck gave the order through liis trumpet to the man on the nighthead, *' keep a bright look out ahead now P' It was amusing to hear Jimmy klding a conversation with his countrymen in the boats, &nd telling them who we were. He was afterwards engaged as purveyor for the ship. As on arriving in port, the first thing thought of is '' fresh |rab."* Jimmy was asked if he had any fowls. *' No got fowls," says he, " have got chicken." Have you any leese? "No got geese, got goose." What is the price of them ? " No can teli, must first makee weigh." Had ve not remembered that the Chinese sell every thing by *Fre8h provisions. 17 190 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. weight, it would hare been impossible for us to have uhh derstopd his last remark. The wind was fair, and the moon shone. We stood on till two o'olock in the morning, when we came to an- chor abreast the city of Macao. At five, a boat was sent ashore, with Lieut. Wilson and midshipman J. W. Tay- lor ; and when daylight appeared, we made sail again, without waiting for her return. We proceeded slowly ui!itil ten, when the boat came back, reporting that the American consul had gone to Canton, and that there were several American vessels at Lintin, towards which we were steering. CHAPTER XVII. tintiDT-Sail op the river— ^Islanda—Forts-^AfTair of the Alceste—Pa- fiodas-^Shipping— Duck boats — Other boats— Arrival at Canton — Mr. Bridgman— Commerce of China — First ship sent to Canton from the United States — Greneral remarks—Chinese shops — traders. LiNTiN is a small, barren, rugged island, the ground composing various eminences, one of which is not less than seven hundred feet.. The island is a mile and a qnarter m diameter, and has but few inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen. Near the foot of the principal peak, are the habitations of some of the most abandoned I people that are ever to be met with, at least, according to the report which I had of them. On account of the bar- renness of the soil, the island of Lintin remained entirely uninhabited till the year 1814, when the East India Com- pany's ships were detained there, in consequence of a dis- pute between the Select Committee, and the Chinese government At that time a temporary market for vege- tables and fowls was opened, which -attr acted a considera- ble population to the spot. Subsequently, the introduction ^ opium into Macao and Canton having been prohibited. 193 CRUISft OF THE POTOMAC. thia place became the principal depot of that article. The article now forms so large a branch of illicit commerce^ that it ia smuggled into the kingdom, by this and other ports, to the amount of a million of dollars a month. Se- Ten or eight vessels are stationed at the island, in prosecu* tion of this trade. Commodore Downes intended to visit the city of Canton on Tuesday, the twenty-second of May, but was prevent- ed by some visitors from Macao. I had looked forward with pleasure to the prospect of being one of his party, and shared in the disappointment. Our gratification, however, was not long postponed ; for at midnight we were. all as- sembled, prepared for the excursion. A small schooner had been provided for the occasion, to convey the Com- modore to the city, and await his convenience while there; and when we embarked, we found it well arranged for the comfort of the party, and stocked with provisions in abun- dance. The persons composing the Commodore's suit were Lieutenants Edson, Ingersbll, and Hoff, Purser Sla- eum, Mr. Grier, Doctors Jackson and Moore, and Mr. J. C. Whiteman, an English I'esideat at Canton, As the wind was light and unfavorable, we retired to rest soon after embarking ; and in the morning, found to our chagrin, that instead of having reached the '' celestial city/' or made any considerable progress towards it, we were lying at anchor in full view of the Potomac, about twdve miles distant. Some distance above Lintin, we passed an island called Lankeet, Which means the Drar goo's Den. A tongue of land runs out into the river on AFPAIR OF THE AI^CESTE. 193 tbe opposite side, which bears the name of Chuen-pee, or the Bored Nose, from a singular rock which forms its roost itriking feature, perforated through. I observed a watch- tower on one end of these points ; lEind in Anson's Bay, which is near it, several inen-of-war junks lying at anchor, ind many other vessels of inferior size. We had a favorable wind tbe greater part of the day, but anchored at night ; otherwise, the current being so strong, might have drifted us back to where we were in the morning. The day following, we passed a village on ^ tbe right, which presented a pleasant aspect. On the op- posite side was a fort about half completed, at which sev- eral men were observed at work« Tiger island, which lies still higher up the river, has its name from the resemblai^ce of its figure to that of a tiger in a reclining posture. On it is a battery of consid- erable size, and on the opposite bank another battery, called Anung Hoy, or the Lady's Shoe. Both these bat- teries are of granite, and one of them extends from the shore, up an inclined plane. Here occurred the affair with the British ship of war Alceste, some eighteen years ago, under Captain Basil Hall. Any one who has seen this fort will not wopder that the firing of the Chinese fiom the land should have been so easily silenced, and the resistance so short, exposed, as the soldiers m^st ]iava ^n, to the British fire, and quite unable to retreat The Walls could have afforded no protection against cannon >bot, and to ail- appearance a broadside could not have I failed to do great execution. The fort now contains firom 17» 194 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. thirty to forty twelve pounders ; and, what seems ridica- lons, the portlids are painted with figures of tigers and demons. . \ The entrance to the river Tigris, called Bocca Tigl-is, a Portuguese name signifying the Mouth of Tigris, is be* tween Anung Hoy and Tiger island. The scenery here is more inviting, and we passed several plantations of bam* boos, bananas, and rice. After [Massing the first and sec^ odd bars, we reached Whampoa, the anchoring ground for all foreign vessels trading with Canton. Sailing onward, we had a full view of a pagoda nine stories high, which is one of the largest in the vicinity of Canton. It is of great antiquity, and stands near groves of banana, orange, peach, and lichee trees, as well as plantations of rice and sugar-cane. Passing several forts called the French and Dutch " Follies," we reached Hou- qua's fort, named afler one of the hong merchants, of whom we hear so much in America. A hong merchant, as is well known, is a mere factor, who enjoys the privilege of trade with foreigners, a privilege restricted by the gov- ernment to a few. This fort was built in 1817 by this merchant, in self-defence, at the period of the affair of the Alceste. Near the spot is another ancient pagoda. The shores present many beautiful scenes along this portion of the river. The pagodas and' joss houses, or idol tem- ples, are numerous and conspicuous ; while duck boats are drawn up in the rice fields, on the surface of which are seen thousands of ducks, under the care of their keep*^ CANTON. 195 The breeze increasing, our schooner moved on more rapidly, and sooq afterwards a splendid scene upon the , water rose in view, which led me to presume that the '* ce* lestid city " was opening to us. In this I was not mista- ken. The surface of the river was thickly, covered with Tessels of different sizes, of singular forms and rigging, many of which were painted with gay and fantastical co- lors. Here were boats and small craft in great variety, with numerous junks of from four to five hundred tons burthen, covered with painted figures in glaring hues, of almost every device that ingenuity could invent, all con- taining men, women, and children, in grotesque garments, huddled together in great numbers, and actively engaged b different employments, while the crash of gongs, and the hum of business heard from every quarter, presented a scene full of life and hilarity. The city of Canton is situated on the north side of the river, ki^own by the several names of the Choo-keang/ or Pearl river, the Tigris, and Canton river. The foreign factories all stand in the south-western suburb, which, with the other suburbs, contains a population, as is said, about equal to that of the city proper. The latter is sur- rounded by a thick wall, built partly of stone and partly of brick, and divided by another wall, which crosses it fiom east to west. The northern of the two sections thus formed, is called the Old City, and the southern the New. The latter is the residence of the governor and of the ^^fppOy or officer of the customs. The foreign residents are required to confine their habitations to' a narrow strip 196 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. of land on the river's bank, without the walls, which migl be very pleasant, but for the crowds of dweUmg boats, which cover the surface of the water. Most of the inhabit- ants of these floating houses are said to have come from the south, who, being a despised people, were not permit* ted to land. The river at Canton is not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide. The shore is crowded with baiid- ings, many of which encroach upon the water. The boats, always seen on the river for the distance of four or five miles, are said to amount to nearly forty or filly thoa« sand, and they may even exceed this estimate. The boats are of various sizes, forins and descriptions. Some are employed in fishing, some in rowing up and down the river with passengers, some as smugglers, and others come from the canal. There is another kind called . dragon boats, seen at the annual celebration of a holiday in June. They are shaped, somewhat like snakes, and are of great size. But the tonka boats are the greatest curiosities. To these I have formerly alluded. The name is said to signify egg house, and if so, is certainly an appropriate one ,* for the form of the boat resembles that of an egg. Each of them is th^ habitation of a family, and though small, still affords as much space for their accommodation as many of the confined apartments in which the poor re- side in our large cities. They have a round top or roof, which is not stationary, but removed when the weather is fine. Ducks and other fowls are raised by the inmates of these floating houses, and kept in coops, which are fasten- MR. BRIBGIUN. 197 m1 to their sides. These nxe not the boats in which the rast Hocks of ducks we often heai^ of are lodged at night, rhe duck boats are of a rery difierent construction, being rerjr flat and low, like our scows, witjli large cars or boxes attached to them, in which the ducks are received. In tke morning these cars are opened, the ducks permitted tolaupch out and swim off upon the river in search of food. In the afternoon, they return to their owners at the sound of his whistle, and re«enter their cars, and take up their lodgings for the night. Thousands of them are supplied for the Canton market. My first object on landing was to find Rev. Mr. Bridg- man, the missionary. I had been acquainted with him at college, in the United States, and he was the only person known to me among the three hundred millions of the Chinese empire. He was living with the American con- solj whose residence I soon found. Qur interview can be better imagined than described. After dinner we were to take a stroll through some of the streets of the suburbs, when I should have an op^rtunity to gaze leisurely at whatever of interest there was to be seen, the great thing for which a foreigner naturally feels an inclination, when- ever he thinks of China. I soon learned also, that I was to make the consulate my abpde during our stay, it having been arranged that accommodations should be afforded to >I1 the members of our party, in the different residences of Boerchants and others. We had at dinner a pleasant company, including a Peruvian from Lima, and Mr. Lawrence, supercargo of the 196 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. American brig Bogoti^. The lucrative commerce with the Chinese attracts merchants of enterprise, intelligence, and refinement, from Europe and America, to greater ex. tent than most other commercial stations in the distant partly of the world. The spacious residences of foreigners, who pass a great part of their lives here, sufficiently attest the prosperity of trade ; but the accounts I heard of the expenses to which they are subject on the one hand, and the vast profits which often flow into their purses on the other, filled me with surprise. One of our countrymen had made, the previous year, eighty thousand dollars clear of all disbursements, though the expenses of his table were stated at no less than twelve thousand for the year. Another had recently made twenty-five thousand dollars on a single cargo of tea sent to the United States. This lucrative branch of American commerce, the trade with China, had its commencement as lately as the year 1784. A detailed account of the first voyage to Canton ever made by a vessel from the United States, has been recent* ly published in the life of the Hon. John Jay. It was ad- dressed by the supercargo, Mr. Shaw, of New York, to that distinguished man, at the time he ' was secretary for foreign affairs under the Confederation, and laid before Congress, when it received an expression of approbation from them. The ship, which was of the burden of three hundred and sixty tons, built in this country, and manned with forty- three persons, sailed on the twenty-second of February, 1784^ under the comihand of John Green. Having toueb- FIRST AMERICAN SHIP AT CANTON. 199 %i at the Cape de Verds, she anchored in the ^traits of Sanda, in July, and proceeded thence in company with two French ships of war to M^cao, where she arrived about the end of August. The French consul and som« of the other foreign residents showed the captain marked attentioni ; and when the Chinese merchants, many of whom called upon him, were informed of the quarter of the world from which he had come, they named America the New Country, and expressed much gratification at (he prospect they entertained of an extensive trade. During the stay of the. ship at Canton, a serious diffi- culty took place between .the government and the foreign- ers, in consequence of a Chinese being accidently killed by a gun fired on board a British vessel. A sudden stop was consequently put to all trade, and arrangements yfexe made for a resort to force. By the exertions of the foreigners, however, excepting the English, but including the only re- presentative of America in the empire, permission was ob- tained to open the trade again, but only under the ChL- nese flag. Our spirited countryman, it appears, was the last to send a boat ashore, and then displayed his own flag. The ship left Canton on the .twenty-seventh of Decem- ber, and after touching at the cape of Good Hope, reached America on the eleventh of May, 1785. The following facts in relation to the China trade of the United States, are derived from documefits presented and laid before the British parliament in 1830^ '31, and '32. In the year 1828, there were only twelv^ American vessels in Qhina, on the first day of December. Between SOO 0RUI6E OF THE POTOMAC. that time and 1880, the annaal export of ballion for seve- ral years from the United States, averaged seven millions of dollars; but in that year was diminished to only fifty- six thousand. There were in the same twelve montfas, but six American vessels at Whampoa, whose aggregate tonnage only about equalled that of two British East- Indiamen. Houqua, the oldest hong merchant, had be- fore this time withdrawn from the trade with the United States, because it had proved unprofitable. The trade in nankeens had quite fallen off, having afforded no profit for the previous four years. Our exports from China for European CQUsumption had greatly diifiinished, though that branch of trade was free ; and indeed very little i^as done by our countrymen in any article except tea. The conunission usually charged on the sale of goods at Can- ton by American residents, was five per cent. The factories, or residences of the foreign factors or merchants, have been so often described, that I shall say but little respecting them. They are extensive buildings, ranged ia long lines, presenting a striking appearance Irom the water. The hongs or market places for Chinese and foreign merchandise, bear a resemblance in plan to the arcades which we find in some of our cities, but are much greater in extent. They are built in one mass, and occupy a space eight or nine hundred paces long and from four to six hundred wide. From the quarter in which these spacious piles are situated, we proceeded afler din- ner through some of the streets of the suburb, and would gladly have entered the city proper, CQpld we hvre CHINESE LADIECI. 201 been permitted. But this privilege is never granted to foreigners. Our descriptions of the *' celestial city'' must therefore have reference only to its humble environs. The narrowness of the streets is almost incredible. They may be said in general to vary from six to eight feet in breadth ; and how they can possibly afford a passage to the numerous persons you meet, besides allowing room for the traffic carried on at the shops and for throngs of beg- gars whom you constantly encounter, is difficult to explain. They are, however, paved with large slabs of granite and kept quite clean. The numerous omnibuses of our large tities would find it rather difficult travelling here. The propensity of the Chinese for small trade, and the eraAine^s for which it affords opportunity, are prover- bial. Their shops are a real curiosity, small as they gene- rally are, and crammed with the utmost variety of articles; We passed multitudes of them, not without observing the vatchfulness with which their owners surveyed i^s, or the exertions made to attract our attention, and draw us into t bargain* They are the most attentive to their concerns of any men I ever saw, and seem to spare no pains' to make their business thrive. Most of the shopkeepers speak a little English, that is, they can use more or less of the mixed dialect which forms the Lingua Franca of Canton, which is a com- pound of Chinese, Portuguese, and English, with a spice of Dutch and French. This is of as heterogeneous a na- ture as the learned language in which Hudibras occasion- ally expressed his thoughts. 18 202 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. " A Babylonish dialed Which learned pedants much ^ect. 'Twas Hebrew cut on Greek and Latin, Like fustian heretofore on satin. It had an odd promiscuous tone, As if he'd talked three parts in one ; Wbich made some thinK, when he did gabble, They'd heard three laborers of Babel, Or Cerberus himself pronounce A leash of languages, at once." I often spoke with the shopmen merely for the sake d hearing their strange dialect. One told me I did not bring him much " pigeon/' meaning'business. I fell into conversation with another, who inquiring about the Presi- dent of the United States, asked me if there was naiich parade in the streets when our No. 1 mandarin went out to ride. In common with other persons who have come in contact with the Canton shopmen^ I did not escape without being the Ipser ; for in some small purchases I made, one of them so managed as to cheat me out ef a trifling sum^ though I thought myself peculiarly on my guard against imposition. Notwithstanding this loss, I congratulated myself on my gpod fortune, which I believe was in fact greater than most others can boast of, who have been exposed to the same dangers. A gentleman belong-' ing to our party was shamefully cheated in the purchase of a vest, which he chose and paid for as a new one. Whether he was deceived in making the selection,^ or whether the article was changed by the shopman before it was sent home, (the latter is the more probable pre- sumption,) he found himself in possession of a second- hand vest, after he had left the city, when it was too late to remedy the evil. CHAPTER XVIII Leang Afa— Dinner party— Cultivation of tea— Proclamation from the Hoppo — Departure from Canton — ^Return to our ship— Chinese women — Greneral remarks — Visit to Macao — Cave of Camoena — Departure for Lintin — Bashee islands. I HAD the pleasure of being introduced by Mr. Bridg- man to Leang Afa. This man has borne a Christian character for nearly nineteen years, and is about forty- eight years of age. His native place is seventy miles dis- tant from Canton. He was put to school at eleven, but floon after was removed on account of the poverty of his far ther, when he was employed in cutting blocks of words for printing. In 1813, Dr. Milne engaged the services of this native as printer to the mission at Malacca l and when he was about to embark for that place, he made a solemn review of his life, and determined to live as a ra- tional being in future, as he had too long associated with bad companions, and wasted his money in gambling. In 1816, he was convinced that he needed pardon for his sins, jet knew not how to obtain it, and used to make sacri- fices twice a month, without finding that any radical 304 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. change took place in his conduct. Though Dr. Milne then made great exertions to instruct him in the Scrip. tures^ he was at first too inattentive to obtain any distinct knowledge of the Almighty, or of the doctrines of the Bible. He would sometimes meditate upon what he heard till he felt a decided opposition to the new religion, and occasionally indulged in ridicule against it and him who taught it. After some time, he made application to a Buddha priest, who gave him a book, informing him that he might obtain salvation by repeating enoujgh of its contents ta amount to a thousand million of pages ! He commenced his task, but on reflection was struck with its absurdity, and abandoning.it, began to inquire with greater interest into the doctrines of Christianity, and to read the Scrip- tures with anxiety. Through the instructions of Dr. Mil- ne, and his own exertions, he became acquainted with the Bible, and e^ecially such parts as ipore directly ap- plied to his own case ; he renounced idolatry in which he had been educated, and the course of deception which he had practised, and took upon him the profession of Chris^ tianity in 1816, at twenty -eight years of age. Four years afler, he visited his native country, where he composed a tract, consisting chiefly of passages from the Scriptures. This was not published, for the police seized the editioB and the printing blocks, and punished him with fine, ibb* prisonment, and with beating. Dr. Morrison procured his release. I was not aware at the time I saw him, that his labors among his owjn countrymen had been so abun* DINNER PARTY. 205 dant and beneficial, as has since been manifest from the interesting missionary details published in the United States. On the twenty.fiflh of May, I had anopportanity of seeing something of the Chinese style in cookery^ being at a dinner given by Mr. Latimer to the Commodore and his party. It was a sumptuous entertainment, as those given by the Canton merchants usually are ; among the dishes I cannot omit to mention soup made from edible bird nests,* so much esteemed. by the Chinese. Several of OUT resident countrymen were present, and the afternoon was spent in pleasant conversation. At evening, tea of the first quality was served up ■ to us, of which foreigners commonly become connoisseurs ' after a residence in Chi- na. The natives, as is well known, drink a strong infu-* sioDof the plant in small cups, unmixed with milk, sugar, or any thing else ; and ii is the favorite beverage of all classes, .from the emperor down to the beggar ; though of course the qualities are numerous and greatly diversified. Indeed, so vast is the consumption of this article in China, that it is remarked, probably with great truth, by McCart- ney, that the price would not be affected, if by accident * These nests are formed, not from the body of the bird, but from eztraneoas substances of a glutinous nature, that are perfectly cleanly. They are of a whitish color, nearly transparent, iahaped like half the shell of a goose egg, the egg divided longitudinally^. They are made hy little gray swallows, generally inhabiting caverns on the sea shore. At Bantam, in Java, taey resort to hilly tracts to feed on the nume- roas insects which they find about the stagnant pooU. Their nests we cotistructed in regular rows on the sides of the cavern. The pro- per time for gathering them is just after the young ones are fledged. J^ey command a high price m market, and are purchased generally vy the Chinete, who suppose them to possess im mvigorating quality. IS* ■ 9M CftUISE OF THE roTOMAC. the whole export trade of foreign countries should at anj time suddenly eease. Great as is the quantity annu exported, it is evident that it cannot form any eonsiderv ble part of the whole supply required for a year, by the immense population of the empire. This article is nei- ther raised nor cured in the environs of the city, as some might naturally suppose who had never visited the place. It is brought from a distance in the intiefrior, where it is cultivated and dried on extensive kilns, and prepared for the market. Packing in chests is performed by the tread- ing of naked feet, perhaps not always the most cleanly. In the evening, a proclamation appeared from the hoppp of Canton, that is the officer of the custom house. Mr. Bridgman furnished a translation, which informed us that the hoppo had ascertained the number of our crew, and that we were freighted with powder and balls, and the commander was peremptorily ordered to leave the celestial empire with all possible expedition. The concluding sen- tence of the order was, hctste^ haste, haste ! We might have felt su|pprise at such an expulsion, had we not been assured by our friends, that it was a mere matter of form, and deserved no notice. I believe the ar- bitrary document therefore had no influence upon the movements of the Potomac, and that the Commodore hastened not his departure on account of it. On the twenty-seventh, being the Sabbath, I attended dirine worship, held at the house of our consul, Mr. King^ and heard a sermon from Mr. Bridgman ; our chaplaiOi Mr. Grier, reading the church service. The congregatioo DBPARTITRB FROM CANTON. 807 was small, consisting of several English residents and a lew of th^ Americans. Mr. King is a man of religious ebaracter, and worthy of the highest esteem. On Monday, we bade adieu to our Canton friends, ex- cept those who accoinpanied us in another small schooner, > on our return to the Potomac. The passage was agreea- ble, doubly so on account of their company, and the cheerfulness which prevailed in both our little vessels, be- tween which many friendly and amusing conversations took place. By the attention of our countrymen at Can- ton, our larder had been stored with a supply of excellent provisions, so that we had far superior fare to what we had been accustomed during our cruise hitherto. On waking the next meaning, we found ourselves near the Bogue, or fiocca ; but thp wind was so light through the day, that we did not reach the ship until about half-past five, p. m. As we approached the ship, the Commodore's barge came off, and met us before we cast anchor. As we rowed to- wards her the band welcomed our return by a lively tune, which to me was peculiarly exciting. Once more we mounted the deck with joy, and were happy again to meet tbe companions of our voyage, after looking upon the many novelties with which Canton abounds. Among the strange personage? I saw in Canton, were several Parsees, or ex-Persians, a number of Arabs and Moors, such a resort is that port for the people of various dis- tant poontries. Strange as it,might seem, in all the distance walked, I saw but two or three women. These however horded me specimens of the small feet for which they are 208 CRUISE OF THB POTOMAC. famous. I am confideDt they were not more than five or six inches in length, and should rather think they were less. The shoes they wore were very tight, and I am sure such a contraction must have caused great pain. The violence they thus do to nature, in obedience to a ridicu- lous fashion, seems to be avenged upon them, as the con- straint they bring upon that important part of the frame, makes them walk with difficulty, and they move as if slight- ly maimed. So far and wide are the Chinese females con- demned and ridiculed for this custom, that it is not neces- sary for me to add any thing in the way of reproof or satire. I cannot however avoid expressing my satisfac- tion, that they do not, like too many of my own country- women, endanger any vital part of the system. They do not gird their cinctures about the waist so tight, as to dis- place the organs essential to health and life. They do not compress the bones of the trunk, so as to produce perma- nent distortions of the skeleton, and the diseases which are the natural consequences. Powerful as fashion is in China, inconsistent as it is with reason and convenience, -preposterous as are its demands upon its votaries, it seems to look with seriousness on health and life, and dares not invade them on tho frivolous grounds which in some other countries are claimed and allowed. I was at first disposed, like others, to regard the Chi* nese women with contempt, and speak of them without apology, but when the unnatural style of dress to which our country women submit, came to mind, and I consid- ered its dangerous tendency^ together with the superior CHINESE WOMEN. MB means of knowledge possessed by the fair daughters of America, I confess I was disposed to pity and apologize for the ignorant Chinese, and warn, with all frankness^ their more offending sisters on my own side of the globe; It is an unpleasing task to blame those we so much de- light to honor, especially when distance, and scenes of the strongest contrast would least dispose us to such a task. I gladly pass to other topics afler thus stopping a momeiit to " put the shoe on the right foot." Probably there is no country in the world, in whi^h an American or European would feel so much like a being ,of a different species, as among the Chinese. There are comers of the earth where people may be found, who, through ignorance, despise all foreigners as much as the Chinese in Canton despise them ; but we can ridicule them for their limited views, because they are as a mere hand- ful. But when we copie to China, and find the language ^ looks entirely different from oqr own, and scarcely affording an admission of any literature worthy of re* spect ; when we find even in the humblest tools of their mechanics, evidence to presume that their arts were de** rived from sources dilSerent from ours ; when in short, we observe that they not merely ' claim to be independent of western power in all its forms, and have so much ground for it in their antiquity, and their numbers, we walk among them ivith somewhat peculiar sensations. The Chinese history, though fabulous in many respects, contains indefi- nite allusions to the intercourse which foreign nations had with the empire in past ages. One of the earliest writers 210 CRFISE OF THE POTOMAC. speaks of the arrival of ** islanders from the south, bring- ing flowered garments." Another describes the Portu- guese and other Europeans as people who ** came over the ocean, myriads of miles, and ranged themselves under the renovating influence of the sun of the celestial em- pire." The edicts of officers, from the emperor down, qpeak in contemptuous terms of foreigners ; and the whole system of commercial regulations with Europeans and Americans, important as it is to the Chinese, and the splendid apparatus with which they carry it on, is in fact a system degrading to the government, while it exposes the merchants to the oppression of petty men in authority, without the right of appeal. One would not receive sach an impression ifrom the imposing aspect of the factories at Canton. But when he comes to learn on what a footing the foreign merchants are placed, things appear somewhat differently. The following extract from *' Remarks on British Re- lations and Intercourse with China," by an American merchant, published in London in 1634, gives a strong view of the case. ** The most prominent (impositions) are the exclusion of the foreigner from all but a corner of a great division of the common earth ; the selection of a most unfavorable spot for his residence and business ; the restrictions of his commercial dealings to an inadequate and privileged number of incompetent persons ; and the abandonment of the fiscal administration to nearly irre- sponsible underlings, who, unsanctioned by any competent uthority, multiply the legal duties in some cases tenfold, GENBRAL RBMABKS. 211 by their arbitrary, and varying enactions." ♦ • • . ♦ * * ** Regarded as the proper objects of public insult tnd misrepresentation, they learn the traits of the charac- ter assigned them, ' in the language of abuse that mothers teach their infant children ;' and the ' contumelious edicts of their local governors, stamping them as ignorant, bar- barous, depraved, debased beneath every thing but that celestial compassion which, because it knows no bound, can stoop to pity them.' " It is no very comfortable thing, to feel ^at we belong to a despised race of men, while standing in the midst of surrounding millions ; for how- ever much we may respect our own superiority in the ab- stract, yet the opinion of so large a portion of the human fimily arrayed against us, leads us in some measure to bdalge a temporary feeling of inferiority. One ^s led, while among the Chinese, to reflect on the val^e of the Christian religion, a» the gteat 6ause of the numerdus ad- vantages we have over them. And when we view the restrictions put upon foreigners, as the barrier against the introduction of the knowledge of the true God, they ap- pear in a light truly great and unfortunate. For what is the value of a few millions of dollars annually, or even monthly, which a free trade might yield to England and America, compared with the blessings which Christianity might confer upon the vast population of the empire! Happily, the obstacles against the admission of foreigners, beretofore supposed to be insurmountable, are beginning to melt away, before the progress of a devoted missionary. Crotzlaff has proved by experiment what the world were I 219 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. not at all prepared to believe, and has visited many paits of the seacoast of China mih freedom. His own writings have made known his movements so fully to our country^ men, that I have no need to repeat what my friends a( Canton know of him, nor to detail the labors he has per* formed sin^ce the period of my visit. I had reason to consider myself fortunate in being per* roitted to visit Macao; for having just, returned from an excursion to Canton, I did not dream of making another application so soon for leave to visit the shore. In reference to favors of this ^ind, something like an uniform system pught to be regarded in a ship of war. However, as the ** Union," a small schooner, came along* aide, one of the officers proposed to have me accompanj him, for which permission was readily granted. When within a short distance of the city, we saw some twenty small boats coming towards us, all " liianned" bj " women," as the sailors expressed it, and each was strir- ing to lead the van of the rowing multitude. The bo^ts were an awkward kind of craft, with a small covering over the stern, just large enough to protect two or three persons from the weather. On the approach of the fleet, we were assailed by loud cries of " capitan," " capitan," *' come in my boat," ** come in my boat I" and the greatest exer- tions were made by each of the noisy solicitors, to obtain the precedence. We chose one of the nearest of the little crafl, and as soon as we had stepped into it, the deafening clamor of the numerous shrill voices ceased, and the mnl- titude, acquiescing in our choice, silently rowed away* MACAO. 213 Out two oarsmen, or rather oarswomen^ were hardy looking, athletic, and skilful at their task, rowing together b perfect time, as they stood in froilt of the little shelter Boder which we sat; white they urged our little vessel towards the shore. A stranger sight, however, I had sel- dom witnessed. Their dress, thoagh coarse, was appro- ]Nriate to their business, each wearing a large broad brim- ned hat of chip, or bamboo, and something that had resemblance to long full Turkish trowsers. While their vociferations, dress, and laborious occupation, seemed to remove them at an immeasurable distance from civiliza- tion, their sleepy and inexpressive Chinese aspect appear- ed almost to deprive them of their connection with the buman family. They soon brought us to the landing-place, where a little altercation occurred in relation to the pay, the price they demanded being too exorbitant for us to allow. '^ We soon arranged the matter, and set off to make our first call on Mr. Blight, a fellow countryman then residing at Macao.' The long range of two story buildings which iaces the water, now lay before us, extending with a sweep along the curved shore for a considerable distance. The buildings appear to be nearly uniform in height and importance; and have a general resemblance to those I saw at Rio Janeiro. We entered the residence of Mr. Blight by a large clumsy door, or coach way, and, from the court within, mounted by a flight of steps to the inhab- ited part of the house, where we found apartments com- fortably furnished, and had an agreeable interview with him, 19 1 214 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. On making our way into the city, we found the street generally narrow, with an aspect of desertion. We sai several ancient churches, one of which, pointed out to q as formerly belonging to the Jesuits, was now occupied « a barrack for soldiers. At one point in our route, vn were stopped by a wall which forms the boundary betwees the Portuguese and the Chinese portions of the city, b» yond which none but natives are permitted to pass. The old odious system of non-intercourse still existing here, offers a bar to the convenience of the foreigner, while il shuts out many advantages from the natives. As there was nothing to be seen in the streets which gave me par- ticular interest, I will not detain the reader by any efforts at description. On the following day I dined with another of the Amer- ican residents at the house of Mr. Low, where I had the pleasure of meeting three of my own countrywomen, who of course formed a striking contrast to the wretched ob- jects we were daily accustomed to see ; and. I was now more strongly than ever reminded of the superior advan- tages for cultivation which are enjoyed in my native land. That abominable usage of exacting one hundred dollars for every foreign female who used to '* disgrace the ce- lestial empire," is happily done away. Macao, in fact» belongs to the Chinese, though it embraces some four or five thousand Portuguese, who are under their own gov* emment, and controlled by their own laws. The number of Chinese does not vary much from thirty thousand. Wishing to visit the celebrated cave of Camoeo0> an CAVE OF CAHOEN8. 215 English gentleman politely insisted on sending his Chinese leirant with us, as a guide to the place. Entering the broad gateway of a large bouse, we found ourselves in an Intensive garden, on a commanding and delightful spot^ Irith a paved walk of granite for our pathway. This gar- den was formerly the property of a Portuguese of wealth, bat at the time I visited it, was occupied by an English tesident, who displayed much taste by keeping it in fine order. This tract of country lies within the limits allow- ed to the Portuguese, and the garden has long been a fiivorite place of resort. At length we discovered before as a singular rocky mass, rising like a small but abrupt hill^ which shows on one side a perpendicular outline, and on the summit a small arbor in rustic taste. At the base of the perpendicular side are two narrow masses of rock, Btanding side by side, surmounted by a capital, and leav- ing a narrow opening between them. This is called Ca- moens' Cave. Here he is said to have composed the Lusiady the master poem of his country, in the sixteenth century, during his residence at Macao ; and though the place has since undergone many changes, he must have found much to aid his poetic fancy, in the singular and beautiful scenery around his favorite retreat. I ascended to the top of the rock by a spiral path, and taking my stand in the arbor, contemplated at leisure the extensive scene before me. The city of Macao lying just below, is completely overlooked ; and the bay, at that time entirely anrufHed, showed a variety of vessels on its surface, while the adjacent coast presented a considerable irregularity of 1 216 CRUISK OF THE POTOMAC. forms and colors. The solitude of the spot, as well u the tranquillity of the scene, was particularly pleasing to me, from its contrast with the busy scenes I iiad latelji witnessed ; and I could not prevail upon myself to think oi leaving it, till the shades of twilight began to settle around Qie. On the following day I had hoped to see Dr. Morrir son, whose residence is in this city ; but I learnt with re* gret, that he had just left for Lintin, in the barque Sama- rang. I had however the gratification I desired, when, after returning to the Potomac, I went in a boat with our chaplain, and boarded the vessel in which he was, which had then anchored at Lintin. My interview was short, but exceedingly gratifying to me, on account of the high* respect I entertained for that pioneer of Pirotestant mis^i sionaries in C^ina ; one who long labored alone at the discouraging task of learning the language, and who has done so much to prepare the way for the operations of his successors in favor of religion and intelligence in that vast empire. Dr. Morrison is a man of a very pleasing exterior, and of a strongly marked English aspect. Notwithstanding his long residence in Asia,v and his great labors, he has the appearance of robust health, and his manners and con- versation indicate cheerfulness and activity of mind. We went into the cabin of the Samarang, where we were introduced to Mrs. Morrison, and saw sieveral of their young children. They had taken up their abode in the vessel for a few days, for the benefit of a change of air. Mrs. Morrison is a lady of dignified demeanor, and easy l>EPA&TnRB FROM LINTIN. 217 and interesting manners. A slender form, and a some- what enfeebled aspect^ seemed to Intimate that her health had been affected by the climate. During the short stay I made in the vessel, I had op- portunity to see something of the superstitious observances of the crew, which consisted of Lascars. They were celebrating a festival. The men were generally dressed ffl white jackets, pantaloons, red sashes, and turbans ; and at dinner they had a great variety of dishes, of which they partook sitting on the deck. On the fourth of June, we \veighed anchor and leilLin- tio, bound to the Sandwich islands. Our pilot Jimmy, accompanied us outside of the islands, and afler he had left us, a noisy scene presented itself on boaird his homely bark. Gongs and cymbals were beaten furiously by Jim- my and his little crew, while joss sticks were burned be- fore their gods, in the stern of the boat. It was their hour of worship, but whether they were praying to the gods that we might have a safe and prosperous passage to our destined port, or that we might be overwhelmed in the sea, it was impossible to tell. In the evening we hailed an English barque, and were answered, but as we had a strong " cracking" breeze, aod as both ships were under a heavy press of sail, we could not understai^d the name. It was a little like friends pass- ing each other at full speed, rubbing their hands and ex- claiming " a cold morning, sir ;'' but the officer of our deck thundered through the trumpet, '^ United States ship Potomac/' 19« 218 CRUIBS or THB POTOMAC. On the eighth, we entered the North Pacific Ocean, which, by the way, we did not find so very pacific, for it was blowing a strong gale, causing the ship to roll tremeo- dously, and filling the steerage and cockpit with water. On the same day we made the Bashee islands, so named by Dampier's crew, in consequence of a kind of liquor made from the sugar-cane in great quantities by the na- tives. This liquor has some resemblance to strong beer, and if taken too freely, produces intoxication. We had expected to make these islands about this time, according to the calculations of sailing master Tatem. They bad a very irregular appearance. The group comprises five in number. One was named by a Dutch sailor, Orange island, afler the Prince of Orange ; another, Graflon, after the English duke of that name ; a third, Monmouth, after the Duke of Monmouth ; a fourth. Goat island, from the large number of goats found upon it ; and a fifth, Bashee, afler the name of the group. Nothing of special importance occurred during the remainder of the voyage. To beguile the tediousnesa of the hours, the seamen had recourse to the establishment of a weekly paper, edited by " Rip Van Winkle," Jun. -A written sheet was issued every Saturday, containing prose and poetry, anecdotes, repartees, and observations vpoa the transactions on board the ship. This paper had its advantages, independent of the amusement it afibrded, as it improved the penmanship of the sailors, and led them to a more correct understanding of the English hn- guage. CHAPTER XIX. Arrival at the Sandwich islandi^—Oahu — Honolulu — Natives— Royal family — Enteriainmeni — Missionaries — Queen-Regent — Chiefs — Native worBhip — Sunday school — Entertainment on board ship-^ Dinner party by the king— Interview with Gov. Adams— Council of the king ana chiefs— Complaints against the missionaries — Gov- ernment — Character of the natives — Remarks. On the twenty-second of July, we made the island of Oaha, the most important among the Sandwich islands, but as the wind was ahead/ we did not drop our anchor in Honolulu roads, till near nightfall of the twenty-third, which was Monday with us, but . Sunday with the good people on shore. Before we came to anchor, we were boarded by Bome foreign residents. One of my mess- mates remarked that they must be " of the number of the nngodly,'* " he was sure of it," otherwise they would not hare come off to us on the Sabbath. In making the cir- cuit of the globe, as we did by the cape of Good Hope, we were necessarily a day in advance of the people at the Sandwich islands ; for the missionaries there came from ^ I 220 CRUIBB OF TBK POTOMAC. the United States by the way of Cape Horn ; consequently they were nearly half a day behind our reckoning. The first missionaries to the Georgian or Society islands, made their voyage from England by way of the cape of Good Hope, and having made the same gain with our- selves, they celebrate their Sabbath one day earlier than their friends at the Sandwich islands.* My feelings on approaching the islands were of a mingled nature. I was near a country not only painfully memorable for the fate of Cook, but still more remarka- ble for the unexampled success which has attended the efforts of the Americaainissionaries. How much, thought I, while promenading the quarter-deck, have I been inter- ested in descriptions of these islands, and how often have I wbhed to visit them. That such a wish could ever be gratified, was not among my day dreams ; yet it was now on the eve of accomplishment. I felt that I was going among friends, and it seerped like home. At the first distant glimpse of Oahu, however, I was disappointed. Instead of the paradise which had been floating in my imagination, the island presented a barren and sunburnt appearance, like the high land before en- tering Table Bay at the cape of Good Hope. But as we came into the harbor, the town of Honolulu presented a lovely aspect. Groves of cocoa-nut trees lined the beach, * The reason of oiir thus hayine two Sabbaths in immediate so^ cession is obvious. If a vessel should condnue to sail round the globe by an easterly course, it would gain a day each circuit, and by a westerly course it WQuld lose one. NATIVES OF OAHU. 221 herds of cattle were seen grazing on the acclivities of the mountains, and flocks of goats feeding in the fertile val* leys. The town appeared much larger than I had antici. pated, and the sacred repose of the Sabbath seemed to rest upon the whole place. Not an individual could be seen stirring. The next day^ the twenty-fourth, the British and American consuls visited the ship, and at noon we exchanged salutes with the fortress in town. I had not heard from my friends since leaving America, and the joy I felt when there was placed in my hands a pack- age of letters and papers from home, cannot be easily de- scribed. The ensuing day, we called upon the authori- ties of the place. We left the ship about ten o'clock, the Commodore in his barge, with his broad pendant flying, at the head of the party. Thousands of natives, presenting a most motley appearance, awaited our landing. The men were entirely naked, save a narrow piece of cloth around the loins. A few had mantles thrown over their shoulders, ' tied in a knot upon the breast. The females were ar- rayed in their native tapa garments, with necklaces of shells, and dried flowers and garlands upon their heads. . Several of the residents met us on the quay, and con- . ducted us to the consulate, whence we proceeded to pay oar respects to the queen-regent, the king, Kauikeaouli or Tamehameha III. then being absent at Maui. Crowds of islanders swarmed around us with eager curiosity, but they were kept at a respectful distance by the police, who made free use of their canes, and occasionally let fly a 2S2 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. Stone among them. The natives appeared to be under good subjection, and offered not the slightest resistance to the authorities. We were conducted to the hall of aadi- ence by Kekuanaoa, the general of whom Mr. Stewart speaks as having something of the polish of the court of St. James. He was dressed in European costume, and with his raffled shirt, braided jacket, and shining boots, looked as prim as any ktiight of the toilet seen parading the streets of our famed cities. On the present occasion, the ladies had a specimen of his gallantry in several in- stances. We were presented in due form to Kinau, the queen-regent, and afterwards to the chiefs. This was the first time I had paid my addresses at court, or taken the members of a royal family by the hand ! The queen ap- peared well, though rather too ceremonious. She is of a tall, robust figure, with' a countenance expressive of much good nature. She wore a black satin dress, w4th a muslin ruff, and plain shoes and stockings. The ex-queens, (widows of the late Rihoriho,) were habited in a similar manner, with the addition of a straw bonnet. Governor Adams, (Kuakini) the present chief magistrate of the island, and Hoapili, governor of Maui, were well clad, and presided with a dignity comporting with their offices. The formalities of the occasion over, I had the pleasure of a few moments conversation with the members of the mission family, and regretted to learn that my quonda» classmate Mr. Tinker, had left for the Society and Mar> quesas islands a day or two previous to our arrival. YALLKT OF MANOA. 223 The hall of audience where we were assembled was a spacious, airy building, thatched from the ridge to the ground with long grass, and resembled in shape a large Dutch barn. The floor of earth,, covered as it was with elegant mats, gave an air of neatness and comfort to the interior. The furniture consisted of one or two mahoga- ny tables and a few elegant chairs, imported from Canton. After our presentation to the royal family, which occupied some twenty minutes, we separated, aiid partook of sump- tuous entertainments provided by the consuls and other foreign residents. Horses were then furnished us, when we rode as far as the valley of Manoa. This we found a beautiful and fer^ ftile spot. The graqdeur of its mountain scenery is seldom equalled. The contrast to the arid and sunburnt appear- ance of the town, was peculiarly striking* We saw a few neat native cottages, surrounded by gardens of bana- nas and common garden vegetables. The atmosphere was cool and refreshing. The sloping sides of the valley were covered with verdure, interspersed with trees and low shrubbery. The soil owes much of its exuberance and fertility to its moisture, as there is usually during some part of the day a fine mist, and showers are frequent ; whereas in the town it seldom rains during the summer season. We visited the residence of the late regent, Kaahumanu, ^ which was in bad repair, where we were presented with a peculiar species of apple, full of juice, from trees on the t premises* Our party numbered about twenty. Our 924 CRUMB OF THE POTOMAC. noble steeds were from the Spanish coast, and had been trained to start off at full gallop. We made a splendid cavalcade, as the gentlemen from the ship who viewed us with glasses, afterwards informed us. It was a day of un- common interest to us all. An invitation to tea at the mission house was given by Mr. Bingham, on the evening of the twenty-seventh, to Commodore Downes and his officers. Most of the mem- bers of the mission were present. It was highly gratifying to the parties to greet each other on these distant shorea I oflen afterwards heard the officers speak of this visit in particular, in terms of unmeasured commendation. Cob- versation at such a timfe would naturally turn upon our homes, our country, and our native firesides. They are subjects upon which we dwell with thrilling interest when abroad. The ladies present were intelligent, amiable, and accomplished ; and the gentlemen showed themselves no strangers to refined society. It was a pleasure to me to meet not a few from good old Massachusetts, and one or two who had been born and educated within a few miles of my own native village. Many inquiries were made-^ concerning their friends in America, several of whom were known to me. The party was so much like one in Ame- rica, that had I been placed there by accident, or could I« have forgotten the circumstances of my visit, I shoal have fancied myself in New England. The dress and thi whole appearance were the same. We were in a fram house of one story, similar to those in our own coun VISIT TO THE CHIEFS. 225 tillages. The floor was carpeted, the furniture was sim- pie, provided by the liberality of their private friends in America. Some of the misilioaariei^ had been residents opon the island for twelve years. They had exiled them- BeWes from their native country, and had crossed the ocean to lay their bones on these distant shores. They had re- linquished the firmest friendships, and had severed them- flelves from their connections forever. They left, expecting to be exposed to privations and trials, and with the pros- pect of meeting with few disposed to sympathize with them in their sufferings, or to rejoice iti their success. But great difficulties had been vanquished, and they had lived to see churches and schools erected on the ruins of pagan iltars and heathen abominations, shedding their blessings over the island. I readily accepted of a kind invitation to take up my residence at the mission, house during our stay. The next morning, accompanied by Dr. Judd, I called on the chiefs. We first paid our respects to Kinau, the queen- regent, and found her seated upon a mat a la mode Turque, sarrounded by a train of attendants, two of whom were fanning her with a couple of '* kahilies." Her huQband, the general, was as polite as when I first saw him at the ^ of audience. Kinau greeted me with Christian salu- tations, and expressed her pleasure at the arriv'al of our •hip. The other chiefs on whom we called, were quite communicative. They were of a mild and affectionate ^position, and appeared as the devout and humble fol- lowers of hin^ who lefl the throne of his Father, and ofTer- 20 226 CEUISE OF TBE POTOMAC. «d up his life for their redemption. They expressed that warmest gratitude to the Lord for his goodness in sendiii| them the Bible, and other religious books, and for thi pleasure they took in serving and worshipping the onlj living and true God. Thouglv I had. read much of the iih fluence of religion upon the people, I was hardly prepared i for all I heard relative to the subject. Their whole dis- ' course was the language of fervent piety, and I endeavor- ed to encourage them in the practice of the precepts and sanctions of the gospel. , ^ The houses of the chiefs are built in native style, aod are generally well furnished for a people over whom pagan ; darkness has brooded for so many ages« The floors are ■• covered with fine mats made at the island of Tauai, and the apartments are formed of calico screens. Kekau- Itt-ohe had a handsome lookipg-glass, a mahogany table, a few Canton chairs, and ^ high post beddtead with appro- priate curtains. The plantations of the banana about their dwellings, with its broad leaf and bunches of fruit, added to their comfort and convenience. Amelia Keaweamahi possessed an open coiintenance, and a firank and cheerful disposition. She made numerous inquiries about my friends in America, and was very desirous to know whethe): I had parents and brothers and sisters living. She presented me with a generous donation of tapa cloth, and one gar. ment entirely whole, with a black pelerine and cap ribbon. The cloth was quite handsome, made from the inner bark of the morus papyrifera, or paper mulberry^ and much taste and fancy were displayed in the variety of patterns NATITB COTTAGES. 227 • with which it was painted. It had some resembljEince to our tawdry chintz. The natives have no stamps for this species of manufacture. The whole is done with sticks dipped in paint and guided by the eye, and the colors are extracted from vegetable substances. The cloth answers well for bed clothes, and mantles. I saw at the house of this chief, Kaikioeva, the famous personage mentioned in the work of Mrs. Graham, printed in England some years ago. It seems that in 1824 an iosarrection broke out at Tauai. Kaikioeva was then governor of Maut. Thei:e was some reluctance on the part of the chiefs in going to battle; and this chief is repre* seated by Mrs. Graham as lifting up his withered hands, and exhorting the warriors to go to battle. He was now much older than when Mrs. Graham wrote, yet his limbs were not withered, but as round and plump as those of an alderman. On our return we looked into several of the cottages of the common people, and found thfem rude hovels. We afterwards visited some "gentlemen" of the country. Their cottages were commodious, and in good keeping. At one place we found a woman sick, and I observed for the first time the method of " shampooing." Two wrink- led old women sat on the bed by her, performing this ope^ ration. The sick woman was lying in a reclining posture, and the others were squeezing with both hands different parts of the body. They called it romee romee, and the process is -said to give immediate relief when there is any pain. It is often resorted to, when persons are tired and 228 CRUISE OF T0K POTOMAC. languid. The husband of this woman had gone with the missionaries on a deputation to the Society and Marquesas islands. Her first salutation to me was, " Much affection for you, because you are obliged to be at sea." She ex- pressed some anxiety for her husband, but said that God would take care of him. She manifested an elevated tone of piety, and I have po.question she was what she profess- ed to be, a sincere Christian. On the Sabbath I had the long wished for gratificatioD of witnessing divine service performed in native style. Commodore Downes and several of his officers were pre- sent. Mr. Bingham preached, and the strictest attentioD was paid to his discourse by the congregation, amountiDg to nearly three thousand. It was gratifying m the highest degree, to listen to the natives singing hymns in their own language, set to tunes with which I had be^n familiar in America, and I involuntarily rose and joined them. After the sermon, our chaplain, Mr. Grier, addressed the natives through Mr. Bingham as interpreter, on the blessings of the Bible to a nation, and exhorted them to prize it above all books, and to follow the instructions they receiv- ed from time to time from their teachers. The English service commenced aftef a short intermission, and Mr. Armstrong delivered an excellent discourse firom the words, " For whatsoever a man soweth that shall he also reap/' At the conclusion of this service, I visited the Sabbath school for native children, and had the pleasvre of address- ing them through Dr. Judd as interpreter. Their de- portment was highly commendable. The teachers were NATITfi WORSHIP. %29 chiefly natives, and the childnen recited their lesaonf with great fluency. Their nambers are usually from four to six hundred. I also visited the Bible class for adults, un* der the superintendence of Mr.'Chamberlain, consisting of nearly two hundred members, Many had very intelli- gent countenances, and showed much interest in the les- son. They gave pertinent answers to questions put to them, and in their turn asked many questions much in point. Commodore Downes came in, and through Mr. Bingham made a very encouraging address to the scholars. In the afternoon native service was much like that of the morning. Nesu* the pulpit sat a (blind man, who was led to church every Sabbath by his faithful dog. On Wednesday I attended a lecture in the church, and witnessed the union of two couple in the bonds of matri- mony. One couple were dressed in European, the other m native costume. The ceremony was conducted with the greatest propriety. Towards the close of the week, the king returned from Uaui, and a few days after, an entertainment was given on board the Potomac by Commodore Downes, to the king, the chiefs, and the mission family. T^e day was one of ceremony and parade. The officers were dressed in Ml uniform, and every one appeared in fine spirits. The chiefs and governors of the islands who preceded the king • ^ coming on board, were neatly and richly dressed. «hey were received with the customary honors paid to "filters of distinction, and a salute of twenty-one guns was ^^' The king was dressed in full uniform, with cha- 20* 230 CBUISK OF THX POTOMAC. peaa, epanlettea, sword, and a gold star on his breast ; and the distinguished chieftains wore rich military uniforms. Our marine corps went through the manual exercise for the amusement of the king, and the band played sererai fine airs. The king's retinue was numerous, and was composed of fine looking men, who conducted theraselvts much after the manner of well bred gentlemen. The king, then only nineteen years of age, appeared graceful and much at his ease. The entertainment was sumptu- ous, and several toasts were drank, among which was the following by the king : " The President of. the United States;'' to which the first lieutenant returned, *' His Ma- jesty the King of the Sandwich Islands." While we were at table, an English brig passing near us but of the har- bor, gave us a salute, which was immediately returned. When the brig was at a short distance, the shrouds were manned, and the men cheered. Early in the following week, the king returned the compliment we had paid him, by giving an entertainment to our officers. The place chosen was. Mount Nuuanu, or as it is sometimes called the Pari, or celebrated pass of Kolau. On going to the consulate, we found horses fur- nished by the king, ready caparisoned for us. Our route was over hill and dale^ through wood and lawn, and re- minded me of my ride to Depok, at Batavia. The road was for the most part narrow and uneven, and could not be travelled with carriages^ On a part of the route is some of the boldest scenery I ev0r beheld. The moan- tains are abrupt, and I noticed beautiful cascades tambling ENTERTAINMENT BT THE KING. 231 down their sides: Mount Nuuanu is distant from the vil- lage about eight miles, and from one of its peaks was ex- hibited a prospect of unrivalled i^lendor. Our party, including the king with his train of atten-* dants, amounting in all to nearly a thousand, might have furnished an admirable subject for the delineation of a painter. The tables were neatly spread under temporary booths and arbors, and hung with festoons of leaves and flowers. Our officers, not excepting the Commodore, were gaily attired in wreaths and boquets of, flowers, made by the attendants of Madam Boki, and presented by her ladyship. The latter and her attendants were decorated, some with wreaths of flowers, and others with feathers upon their heads. The whole feast was served up in native style, but the tables were spread after the English or American fashion. The mode of cooking is very difierent from that of our own country* A hole is dug in the ground. This is walled with stones, which are heated. The food is then covered with leaves and pUt in this hole, and a fire made OQ the top ; at a suitable time the Are is removed, and the fix>d taken out, thus givmg it the flavor of baking. Our bill 'of fare consisted of baked pork, ducks, tur- keys, chickens, fish, and baked dog. The latter was famished probably out of compliment "to the guests. I was not enough of an epicure to taste, but several of the officers partook of it. This seemed to me, outdoing the natives, for they had long since abandoned it as an article of food. The dessert consisted of taro puddingy pump- 1 CEUISB OF THE POTOMAC. kin piesy fruit and wine. Poi in its fermented state was also handed us in calabashes, the taste of which is similar to flour paste. This we ate with our fingers in native style. About the middle of the week, a more rational leyee was given by the female chieftains, at the king's palace, which was fitted up specially for the occasion. The floors were covered with fine mats, the walls were ornamented with the portraits of distinguished individuals, among which were those of the present king of Prussia, the king and queen of the Sandwich islands who died in England, and of the present king, taken when he was a child. A long table in the centre of the room, with handsome mats for a covering, was Joaded with various eatables, such as cake, biscuit, fresh butter, sweetmeats, fine grapes, and excellent tea and coffee. The guests were seated in the following order : Gov. Adams . at the head ; Hoapili, gov- ernor of Maui, at the foot; the king, Com. Downes, and two or three other gentlemen, together with the ladies of the mission, on the left of Gov. Adams, and the American consul and other foreign residents, gentlemen of the mis- sion and officers of the ship on his right. There prevail- ed much harmony and good feeling on the occasion. The company were entertained with several fine airs played by the band which had been ordered on shore : the latter were rewarded for their performance by a supper, far superior to any they had eaten on board ship during the cruiscL On the ensuing day, in company with Dr. Jadd, I INTERVIEW WITH 60TSRN0R ADAMS. 333 yisited the ruins of an ancient temple, the spot where the islanders formerly paid their devotions to their idol gods. Mr. Stewart has described it in ' bis *' Residence at the Sandwich islands." On the evening of the ninth, there was a theatre on shore for one night only, for the benefit of our '' Thespian corps." I was not present, but understood the tragedy to be " Douglas," and the comedy " Snacks." Doubtless the ii|orals of the natives were much improved. On the close of the week, Commodore Downes had aa interview with Gov. Adams, relative to the internal regu- lations of the island, and strongly recommended him to encourage agriculture among the people, by giving them leases of certain portions of land for a term of thirty or forty years. He farther advised him to levy duties on ar- ticles imported. Mr. Bingham was present, and seconded the plans he proposed. The exercises of the next Sabbath were similar to those of the preceding, except that Mr. Bingham preached both in the native and English languages. It was the last Sabbath that I was to spend upon the island, a cir- cumstance that led me highly to prize the privileges of th^ day. On Monday and Tuesday a council of the king and chiefs was held, for the consideration of topics presented by the foreign residents through Commodore Downes. Mr. Bingham was present as interpreter. The following is the substance of what passed on the occasion^ On the subject of religious freedom and touching the expnlsion of 1 284 CRUfSB OF THB POTOMAC. the Jesoits, it was said that in the most enlightened coon- tries all religions are tolerated, and that no person is ban- ished for his religious opinions. It was however allowed that Roman Catholic countries, particularly Spain, Portu- gal, and Italy, do not hold to the principles of toleration. Mr. Bingham remarked that the Jesuits had been repeat- edly expelled from European states. Another observed that it was for their interference with governipent, and that those who did interfere ought to be expelled ; a re- mark intended as a reflection, upon the supposed condact of the missionaries resident at the Sandwich islands. Mr. Bingham farther remarked, that the tow of the Jesuit, of unqualified submission to a foreign prince, was supposed by intelligent men to be incompatible with the free insti- tutions of America. This wa« granted. Another remarked that the Jesuits were tolerated in America. Mr. Bingham said, " I presume they are." Commodore Downes did not approve of the punishment of aay of the subjects of the king, for difference of opinion on religious matters. On this the king signified that it was not for entertaining different opinions, but for wor- shipping images, in violation of the laws of God, and in dis- obedience to his own orders. He might also have added that his royal brother and predecessor had prohibited image worship ; an event at which every Christian re- joiced. A complaint was next made, that some of the islanders were subjected to a severer task than others, be- cause they would not part with their images. This was a complaint against the government, and not againit the COUNCIL OF THE KINO AND CHIEFS. 335 miasionaries. It was alleged also, that a boat had been seized and detained for having carried some abandoned women on board a ship, and that this was a severer pun- ishment than the crime deserved. The fact was simply this. The boat was sezied for carrying off women in violatiop of the > KRUSENSTEBN'S ISLAND. 946 ^■mU hands reef the topsails." How anxiously the fleeting Pftoments passed, till the expected tempest had gone by, leaving as unharmed. Another death soon afler occurred on board. Thomp- son, vrho had been for some timie in declining health, breathed his laat, and the dark waters took him to their bosom. He had been successful in past years as a comic aotor in the United States, where he was known by the name of Stamp. While in health, he used frequently to amuse the crew with his comic songs, but his last hours were saddened by the ren^embrance of the prediction that he would pass his life a vagabond, and end his days with a halter. On the night of the twelfth of "^September, we were once more greeted by the exulting cry of ** land ahead." It proved to be KrusenStern's island. , Several white flags were seen waving on the beach. Whether they were rais- ed by the natives, or by unfortunate mariners wrecked amid the breakers, it was impossible for us to ascertain ; a threatening sky and a dangerous shore rendered it unsafe for us io approach the coast. The island is no dpubt a coral reef - It is not destitute of fertility, but is skirted with groves of trees, and stocked wi$h an abundance of shrubbery. A splendid sunset brought us to. the close of the day. The sky at that time seemed lifted up by a thousand fires, and, to other striking beauties of the mo- ment, was added a fine rainbdw in the east. On the fi>liowiiig day we came in sight of the island of Tahiti, the principal of the Georgian group, which was 346 CRITIfll OP TBB POTOMAC. Tinble at the distance of forty miles, and we anticipate! the pleasure of recmiting ourselves after a month's vojage, by rambling in its vales and along its shores. Being ufr able to find our way into'Matavia harbw that night, we lay off for a pilot, and in the morning a church was rifi- ble on shore, and soon after a cluster of dwellings, while a canoe or two was seen approaching. Paptete bay, off which>we fotind ourselves, is a safe and commodious harbor for vessels of a smaller size than ours, but it was deemed best to take our ship into Matavia bay, which is merelj an open roadstead. We were soon surrounded by natives is their canoes, spme of whom came on board. They ap- peared to be a mild and firiendly race, stout and athletic. On my first visit to the island, the surf was so high as to render it necessary for one of the sailors to* take me on his shoulders to the beach. I had seen Rev. Mr. Nott's dwell* ihg firom the water, and easily found my way to it The missionary was sea^ted m his study, apparently preparing a sermon for the Sabbath. He received me with kind- ness, and readily communicated such information as I de- sired, on subjects relating to the island. He is probably about sixty years of age, and shows few marks of decline. I started for Rev. Mr. Wilson's^ a mile and a half distant, and found the way fatiguing, under the oppressive heat of a tropical sun. In climbing up the steep acclivity oft hill which lay before me, my labor was richly repaid bj the beautiful scenery which broke upon my view. Oran- ges and lemoris were growing upon the hill, without the hand of the cultivator, whilei the valleys were filled with f WORSHIP AT PAFSKTE. 247 prclure and luxqriance. The prospect was extensire^ and not a little exhilarating to one who had been so long at i^A' At the house of Mr. Wilson, I met several of our officers who had preceded me, and was kindly entertained hy the family. Mr. Wilson was one of the early mission- iries in the Sputh Seas. He arrived at Tahiti in 1612. The London Missionary Society, it would seem, is not re- markably bountiful in providing for their missionaries. The sum allowed at the island' is only sixty pounds^ equal tQ about two . hundred and si^^ty-six dollars a year, which is hardly sufficient for the common necessaries of life. After spending several hours at Mr. Wilscm's, I returned on board ship. On the epsuing day, which was the Sabbath, I was much gratified with the visit of Rev. Mr. Tinker, my class- mate, whom I had failed to see at the Sandwich islands. I assented with pleasure to a proposition to attend divine service with him and our chaplain at Papeete. We un- fi>rtanate]y arrived too late for the morning service^ but bad the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Pritchard and his wife, and Mrs. .Simpson his sister-in-law, the latter from £imeo, an island twelve miles distant. Mr& Pritchard is a woman of polished manners, and deeply interested in the liairs of the mission. Her husband is an accomplished icholar apd a faithful herald of the. gospel. We were also not a little gratified to meet Messrs. Whitney and Alex^inder, who were sent with Mr. Tinker on a deputation to the Society and Marquesas islands. 34t CRUUB or TH« POTOMAC. Thoy afterwards esUblished a missionat Nukahiva, whiek^ has since been abandoned by the American Board. In the afternoon of the same day we attended^ nativi service at the church, which was alarg^ and airy bnilding, though in a dilapidated state. The audience was not as numerous as in the morning, it being the custom for tbe majority to attend service the first part of the day. Tbe natives were better clad than those at Honolulu, and some of the females manifested considerable taste in their dress. The congregation was not as orderly ^s could have been wished, and the music was inferior to that we heard at the Sandwich islands. ' Mr. Pritchard, so far as I could jadge from listening to his sermon in an unknown ^ngne, is & good preacher ; he is at least a good orator. At the close of the service great regularity was observed in leaving the house, the people waiting for each other till all couU leisurely retire. We took tea at Mr. Pritchard's, and spent the evening in an agreeable and appropriate manner, chiefly in reli- gious exercises. He lives in a comfortable dwelling, simi- lar to the bungalows of the East Indies. Here we met " Lord Hill," a singular personage, who, after having vis- ited a number of the cities and watering places of tbe United States, had been spending some months at tbe islands, for what purpose no one could tell. He li^ed I • about a year at Mr. Pritchard's, but they could ascertain nothing respecting him, except so far as he chose to p^^ them information. From his account, he had visited al- IVATIYS SCHOOL. 349 nost every quarter of the globe. He was flopposed to be an ex-nobleman, travelling incognito. I since learned that he left without paying bis bills, or offering to make any compensation. The next morning soon after sunrise I called at a school house, where about one hundred pupils had assem- bled for instruction. Not having time for particular inqui- ries into the progress they had made, and knowing noth- ing of the native language, I can only say that I saw sev- eral very creditable specimens of penmanship, and that the general appearance of the scholars indicated intelli- gence and good manners. The forenoon ^ was spent in pleasant conversation with my friends, and in visiting the missionary packet, a vessel of only thirty tons. On a small island off the entrance of the harbor, we found a few shells and several fine specimens of coral. There was a complete submarine grotto. The coral was beautifully Tariegated in color and shape. We saw some beautiful specimens of conchology. The leopard spotted shells, a species of the cowrie, are com- mon, but extravagant prices were demanded for them. The natives appeared to be as covetous as the Malays, and inferior to the Sandwich islanders in intelligence and in the social virtues. Tahiti is one hundred and eight miles in circumfe- rence, and contains about ten thousand inhabitants. The church at Papeete, embraces about three hundred mem- bers, and that at Matavai about two hundred. The fer- tility of the soil is truly surprising, and might be cultivated 22 860 0BUI8B or THB POTOMAC. to greal advantage. I walked through several beautifid groves of cocoanutSy lemons and limes. Bananas, gnavas and cocoanuts were fully ripe, which was not the case with oranges, pine apples, and bread fruit The latter is the chief article of food for the natives. It gives them a robust appearance, and is thought to be more wholesome than the taro of the Sandwich islands, which renders the peo- pie corpulent The bread fruit is baked before it is eaten, but in taste resembled more an artichoke than, bread. The islanders may be said to be nominal Christians. The missionaries were formerly too much encouraged by their success, but were now perhaps too much depressed by unfavorable circumstances. Missionary influence, how- ever, appears here less operative than at the Sandwich islands. The contrast to me was very striking. The eve- ning of the following day, I took tea with a friend at the house of Mr. Bidcnell, an Englishman. Mr. B. and his lady were pleasant company, but their daughters, like others educated on the island, appeared modest and bash- ful to an extreme. I tasted a dish on that occasion, which was new to me. It consisted of very small fish, of a flavor resembling that of oysters. Afler tea we set off for Pa- peete at the distance of a mile and a half, where we took our berths for the night, on board the missionary schoonw. The next morning we breakfasted at Mr. Pritchard's, bade &rewell to the missionaries, and departed for our ship. Having but one horse between us, my friend and myself took turns in riding. We arrived at the beach just in time to go off in the life boat, which had been sent to BIBLB CLASS. 251 take the offieers on board. Commodore Downes had re- ceived a letter from the queen, Pomare, then in a distant part of the island^ informing him that if he would prolong hifl stay a day or two, she would make him a visit. He replied that /arther delay would be impossible, so that we « eet sail the next day, the twentieth of September, without obtaining a sight of her royal majesty, bound to Valparaiso with a prospect of spending many long months on the Pa- cific coast of South America. Passing from necessity around £imeo,> we had a beautiful view of that island^ which was clothed with foliage, and had the appearance of great fertility. I had long desired to establish a Bible class among the seamen on board, but till the twenty- fourth I had failed to put my project into operation. Unfavorable <^inions had been expressed by some of those with whom I had conversed on the subject. One thought it would inter- fere with the duties of the nien ; another, that they would turn the whole matter into ridicule ; and thus, one objection after another was interposed : but I was determined to make an experiment, and was agreeably disappointed when I found thirty individuals ready to Assemble for iustruc- tion ; and I had gratifying evidence that my honest wishes for their benefit, were appreciated in a much greater de- gree than I had allowed myself to hope. During several successive Sabbaths on the passage, I had a similar grati- fication, and even niade accessions to my class, whose I minds it was pleasant to direct into a better channel than ordinary, though it should be only for a time. Though the Bible class proved the source of some of my sweetest 252 ORUtSK OF THE POTOMAC. enjoyments on the passage to Valparaiso, I should not ha?e alladed to it, but fyr the hope that the gratifying suc- cess which attended my exertions, might possibly encour- age some other person under the same circumstances to be more active and persevering. The prospect of success could sciEU'cely have be^n more unpromising, and yet a sin- gle experiment proved that the discouraging anticipations formed respecting it virere entirely unfounded. On the fifth of October we had a severe gale, accom- panied with such a temperature as we usually experience in the Northern States in December. This was soon suc- ceeded by a calm of several days' duration, and that bj a nine knot breeze, which bore us on rapidly towards our port. One day the ship was suddenly thrown into com- motion by the cry that a man was overboard, and such was the excitement, the desire to render him assistance, and the crowd on the quarter-deck, that for several minutes the life buoy was not cut away. The man, though intoxi- cated, was happily a fine swimmer, and not only kept himself above water, but having lost his hat swam for it, recovered it, and waved it over his head. Had the delay been much longer than it was, he would never ha^e reached the ship, for his strength was nearly exhausted before the boat reached him*; and when he Vas liiled into the ship, he appeared overcome, and the physicians had not a little trouble with him. About five o'clock on the afternoon of October twenty' second, the Andes were dimly seen above the eastern horizon, probably not less than seventy miles distant HARBOR OF VALPARAISO. 353 They hare sometimes b^en seen from a distance of two handred miles, particularly in a clear atmosphere be- fore sunrise. The coast gradually rose into view as we ap- proached it, and on the following day we were near enough to view its irregular form with pleasing anticipations. As we approached the harbor of Valparaiso, the coast had the high and checkered appearance of some of the bold promontories of New England, though with the as. pact of greater sterility.. When we came up with the Point of Angels, one object after another opened upon us, beginning with a large white house, where the governor occasionally resides. "Then are seen the habitations of the citizens stretching along above a sand b^ach, and then higher up the acclivities, almost covering the numerous steep hills on which the town is built. I had seen seve- ral large cities in different quarters of the world, and must confess that my anticipations concerning so considerable a seaport as this, were not realized. The name of the place, Valley of Paradise, is calculated to give one lofty expectations, and prepare him for disapppintment. If such a place is paradise, it must be paradise fallen, as when the holy pair were expelled by sin. The soil in the vicinity of Valparaiso is for the most part very poor, and the irregular broken country for miles around, has a pecu- liarly desolate appearance, from the almost .total absence of verdure and foliage. The long snowy range of the Andes, though so distant as to form a less impressive fea- ture in the scene than my imagination had pictured, was 22* 254 CR0ISE OF THE POTOMAC. Still a very fine object, and if it could have been contrasted with any thing like an Italian foreground, would have been far more enchanting to the sight. The everlasting snows of the Andes, when viewed in particular lights, would gleam with brilliancy as if overspread with burnished silver. The sombre interest of the scene was heightened by the chiming of bells for vespers, from the gloomy mo- nasteries of the town. CHAPTER XXI. Valparaiso — Monte Ale^e—Posada^Nativet— -Carts — Aimendral — Parties on Board— Chilian ladies— Buildings— Roads— Climate — Navy — Commodore Wooster- — Buryinff grounds — State of the country — Government— Institutions of learning. On the twenty-fifth of October, I went ashore with several of the officers, and began my observations on the Chilians. Happily for us, a pier had been recently erteted, which saved^ us the inconvenience of landing in the sarf, to which so many of our predecessors had be^n exposed. The sea^breaks with violence on the coast al- most incessantly, for many hundred miles in extent; and in some places nothing but the native boats made of inflated hides, can be safely trusted. Our party reached the shore without difficulty under the protection of the pier, and there we found ourselves surrounded by a motley crowd. Many of them were the ^«o»5, or country people, dressed in their large ponchos, which are something like horae blankets with a hole in the centre, through which the head is thrust, so that the ends hang down behind and before. The women of the Ipwer order were numerous, habited S56 CRUISE OP THS POTOMAC. in dirty calico frocks, with shawls of baize, either green or crimson. In passing throogh the streets to the cnstom house, we saw soldiers loitering about, as at Rio and Macao, and a train or two of mules bringing wood or mer- chandise from the country, or panniers of poultry for the market. There was much bustle about the custom house, where the poor animals were relieved of their burdens, and merchants were busily employed in the details of their occupation, among whom I saw several Americans and Englishmen. A short walk made me pretty well acquainted with the town. It has one large street and a few small ones, and in common with most Spanish towns has its plaza, or public square, with the government house and a range of stores on opposite sides. I lool^ed in vain as I parsed along the street, for something interesting among the in* habitants. Monte Alegre is an eminence which rises ab- ruptly from the centre of the town, and in fact nearly overhangs it. It is the residence of many of the foreign- ers of Valparaiso. A walk of a few moments brought me to the summit, the view from which embraces some very fine features. ,The ample bay on one side, spread out beneath my feet, while on the other, the Andes rose from the broken and desert surface which spreads far in that direction. My subsequent visits to that spot gave me opportunities of viewing the scene under a variety of circumstances, and often it was enchanting. We saw ■ome serene and clear evenings from Monte Alegre; for being hoepitably entertained by some of the foreigners, POiTADA; 857 ind amoDg them several of our countrymen, we often re- mained till a late hour, sitting or promenading in the neat Dourt yards and gravelled terraces, gratified with refined society and cheered with the sounds of our native language. The ship's band was several times called out to enliven the parties we attended, and their animated strains added to the enjoyment of the evenings. There are several innS in Valparaiso, but I saw little of them except that of Mr. F., an Englishman, who has resided some years in the place. His establishment is in the Chilian style, consisting of several long buildings only one story high, with tha main entrance leading through the billiard room; and by the bar. There are some decent apartments along a range of rooms further in, which you iteach by a walk in the open air, and there individuals or families might find comfortable accommodations. I took a rambling excursion with two of the officers from the ship to the posada or post house, nine miles dis- tant on the road to Santiago. It was over a tract of coun- try very deficient in interest. The road is crooked, fre- quently windipg around steep hills, and over a surface for the most part sterile and uneven, sun-burnt and arid. We met nothing living on the way, except now and then a muleteer, with his train of animals almost borne down to the earth by their burthens, and a few unwieldy carts loaded with different commodities for the port, covered with the^ untanned hides of animals, and drawn by oxen. We passed but few dwellings, and they were generally mere brush houses, with one room. The posada is a small :5 3S8 ORTTMB OW TBS POTOMAC. building of one story, constructed after the fashion of eoantry. We had two pretty extensive views before arrived there, but found that afforded by the posada muckl more so. The eye rested upon a vast naked plain, silent^ and lonely as the Sahara of Africa, a fbw vultures only hovering over it, but not a living creature on its surface. No habitations were in sight, except the posada, a dwel<» ling near it, and a small cluster of brush and mud cottages at the foot of the hilL The keeper of the inn was an Englishman. Obtain* ing some refreshments at the place, we entered several huts in the vicinity, and this mark of attention seemed to gratify the inhabitants, who appeared like a friendly thoagh ignorant race. As our stock of Spanish words was small, we were compelled to make short calls, and could hold but little conversation with the natives. We found them a miserable population, destitute of almost all the comforts of life. The doors of their houses were made of hides, and most of the fastenings used were of the same material. The chief signs of vegetation we saw^ were aa apple tree and a few pear trees in bloom, on the premises belonging to the keeper of the posada. It would be difficult to give a perfect idea of the carts to which I have alluded. They were of the simplest and rudest construction. The drivers wore ponchos and high crowned Guayaquil hats. Their legs were covered to a little below the knee by short trowsers, and the /feet with sandals of raw hide. Their ox-goads were about twenty feet in length. The creaking of the wheels is heard at a ilLMENDRAL. 259 |ieat distance, as they never put tar or grease upon their tades. The prevalence of this practice is to he traced to ke ignorance of the people. It has been accounted for B different ways, as that it exposes smugglers to discov- wj, and that it frightens away the devil from the oxen. A part of the town of Valparaiso is called the Alinen- Iral, and was once shaded by groves of the almond tree, from which it derives its name ; but it is now destitute ^ trees, with the exception of a f)bw olives. From this ipot, the bay stretches round to the Point of Angels, a dis- tonce of four miles, and presents a considerable breadth, offering a safe anchorage except in the winter months. Daring that period of the year which is spring and sum- mer with us, the winds blow violently from the north, and throw in a dreadful sea, often driving ships from their an- ofaorage, with a scene of wreck and disaster. On the east side of the bay is a fort upon the top of a hill, called the Baron ; a second near the centre of the town, on the west side of the bay ; and a third at Play a Ancha. Only 8 few iron pieces are mounted in these works, which are kept in bad repair. That part of the town which is devoted to business, lies at the foot of Monte Alegre and the other hills which rise almost perpendicularly above. Only a few houses are here to be seen in any direction, which have many pre- tensions to taste or comfort. From this remark, however, are to be excepted the neat and beaptiful habitations of foreigners before mentioned, on Monte Alegre. These being constructed in the cottage style, and displaying their 900 CRUIBB OF THE POTOMAC. little flower gardens in front, present an attractive sigh towards the water. In retorn for dinner parties given to the officers by several of the foreign residents, dancing and waltzing parties were given on board the ship. On these and other occasions, we saw nambers of the Chilians of different classes. Many of the young ladies, who came attended by (heir parents and friends, were beautiful, and of pleasing manners. They possessed much wit and vi- vacity, and were highly pleased with the appearance of our ship. The complexion of the ladies is a light brunette, usually with bright red cheeks. They wear no hat, but dress their hair with much taste, and are elegantly attired. They are attended by matrons, similar to the Spanish due- nas, which indicates a state of society far less enviable than that which exists in my own country. We oAen found something to interest us, in the ex- pressbns of surprise and pleasure made by country people, who sometimes visited the ship, which to them was quite a novelty. We met with marks of attention in the streets of the town, and the inhabitants were generally disposed to regard us with cordiality. There is no taste displayed in the buildings of the town. They are made chiefly of sun-dried brick, plas- tered outside, and only one or two stories high, with red tiled roofs. The bricks are three feet long and two feet wide, and very coarse. From what I observed, I should judge that their manner of making them might have been similar to that practised in Egypt in the time of Moses. The price of building lots in Valparaiso raried from GOMHODORB^ W008TER. 261 one to four dollars a vara, or Spanish yard. * On inquiry I found that there was no probability that a Protestant fchapel for seamen could be erected, and that a resident chaplain to preach on board vessels would hardly be tole- rated at the port ; yet I was assured that there would be Ho objection to the establishment of a reading room for the accommodation and benefit of seamen. There is but one public highway in Chili. Several important roads 4iave been projected, but the face of the country offers many obstacles, and improvements of this nature must necessarily be gradual. Throughout the sommer, the climate is delightful ; the sky is often without a cloud during the day, and the nights are always pleat- ant. In the winter there are* severe rains. The most prevalent diseases are fevers. There are no slaves in the lepublic. The navy at the time we were there consisted of only two small vessels, and two officers, the captain of the Aquilas and Commodore Wooster. I had the pleasure of several interviews with the latter. He has resided in Chili for more than twelve years, during which time he has held the highest offices in the navy, has been engaged in all the most important naval abtions, and has always been victorious. He is a native of New Haven, Con. and is grandson of Gen. Wooster, who fell fighting for the in- dependence of his country during the American revo- lution. I visited the burying grounds, situated on the top of a high hill which overlooks the town. On our way, we saw several crosses erected, as has been said, for the pur- 23 903 CRUI8B OP TBB POTOHAO. pose of eliehing prayers for souls in purgatory. The grounds are inclosed by mud wails. One of them is ap- propriated to the Cathdics or natives, and the other to persons of a diflbrent faith. Attached to the Catholic grave yard, is a charnel house^ which is literally a place of skulls. The dead are la^d with their heads to the west, in shallow graves, and for the most part without either a coffin or a shroud. They are licst covered with only a small quantity of earth, which is beaten upon them with a billet of wood. When the graves are fiUed, a wooden cross, instead of a stone, is set up to mark the place. But the bodies are frequently left so much exposed as to be partly visible. To this I can testify from what I saw during my visit to the melancholy spot. The cross- es, it appears, are removed after having stood for a time, as I saw a quantity of them lying under a shed ; and the ground must have been often dug over, as was evident from its limited extent, and from the bones I saw scattered around me on every side. The adjacent Protestant bury- ing ground presented a very different appearance. Many of the graves were marked, as in our own country, with neat marble slabs bearing appropriate inscriptions. Yet we were greatly shocked to learn that the Protestant graves have been repeatedly violated, either from malice or for plunder. I picked up several coffin plates, marked with names and dates, and was assured on authority that the remains of one of my own countrymen which had been buried here, were taken up and treated with great indignity. I can scarcely, ajlow myself to believe that QOVERNMBNT. 263 such barbarous deeds are countenanced by the priests. I saw but one of them in society, and he was a friar of the order of Mercy, bearing a high character for intelligeace, liberality, and friendship for the North Americans. During my stay in Chili, I took advantage of such op- portunities as offered, to. obtain authentic information con- cerning the state of the country. On some points of in- terest I found a considerable variety of opinions ; but on most of the objects of my inquiry I obtained such satisfac- tion, that I can present the results with much confidence. The population of Chili may amount to between one million two hundred thousand,^ and one million five hun- dred thousand. Santiago contains about forty thousand inhabitants, and Valparaiso from twenty-five to twenty- eight thousand. The commerce of the country, for which there are naturally many facilities, is still very limited, and not more than fifly sail of vessels are owned by the inhabitapts, most of which are small. This country has enjoyed more peace than any of the other new states ; and the people are generally considered as a race superior to the Peruvians. The government is a central republic. There are no inferior sovereignties like our states, or like those of Mexico and La Plata. The salary of the Presi- dent is twelve thousand dollars, and that of the prime minister three thousand. The people are in a more pros- perous condition, and far more contented, than they were while under the oppressive colonial system of Spain. Education is in it3 infancy ; but some attention has been 264 CRUI8B OF THE POTOMAC. bestowed upon it, and the lirat rudiments of knowledge are pretty generally taught to the young. The institutions of learning consist of colleges, public schools, and milita- ry schools. The national college contains three pro- fessors. There are two schools for young ladies in Santiago, and one in the city of CJonception. The press is rendered free by the constitution. A daily commercial pa^ per is published in Valparaiso, yet in some measure coib trolled by the influence of the public officers. CHAPTER XXII. Departure from Valparaiso— Flogging on. board— St. Lorenzo— Harbor of Callao — Salutes— Foreiga ^hips— Rumor respecting La Fuente — Ride into the country— Bella Vista — ^Hospital — Ruins of old Cal- lao — New CallaOT-Character of the inhabitants — Soldiers. On Sunday, the second of December, we left Valpa- raise for Callao, the port of Lima, where we arrived on the fifteenth, after a voyage of thirteen days. Nothing of spe- cial consequence occurred during the passage, except that on the second day out we had a flogging scene on board. The crew had been ashore on liberty, and as a natural consequence the '* brig" or ship's prison had become near- ly full. Seven men were scourged at the gangway with the " cats ;" two for desertion, a third for assault and battery, a fourth for stealing a doubloon, a fifth fbr at- tempting to swim ashore during the night by stealth. This man had received a dozen for the same offence while we were in the port of New York. A sixth was punished for refusing to assist an officer of a boat when attacked by one of the sailors, and a seventh for using insolent language to a midshipman. ^ This last fellow was a good hearted Irishman, and I was sorry to see him *' seized up/' 23* 1 266 CRtrisfe OF tus Potomac. though his oflfence was of a nature that could not be over* looked. He had a good share of natire shrewdness^ and had often amused us by his witticisms. He had once writ- ten some humorous verses to the first lieutenant on his own birthday, requesting some "good cheer" wherewith to celebrate it. The thing was so well done, that his appli- cation could not be withstood, and a bottle of wine was sent him, in compliance with his request. He was the steerage mess boy, and his duty was to wait upon some doz- en midshipmen, brush their cloths, clean their dishes, et cetera, and obey about twenty contradictory orders at the same moment. He received only half a dozen. After he was ''cut down" he took up his jacket, and putting it on very deliberately, exclaimed to the officers, ''Fath, and if this is the way ye pay the fiddler, I'll dance no more." On the fourteenth the cry of land ho I was heard from the man on the mast head, and towards evening we had a noble view of the lofty heights of the Andes. We stood on during the night, till within the distance of nearly twen- ty miles of the land, when we lay to, awaiting the dawn of day. About four o'clock the next morning, we again filled away, with all sail spread to the breeze, and by sii; descried the sterile summits of St. Lorenzo. As we neared the island, the United States schooner Dolpbio was discovered, making towards us from the harbor, and as is customary on such occasions, we showed our number to her. She came out beautifully, and as she shot by our Urboard bow, exposed her neat deck guns to our view, and then stood off at some distance astern of us, out of HARBOR OF CALLAO. 267 compliment to Commodore Downes. Soon afterwards, we observed a boat lowered frcMn her, when Gapt. Long came along side of us,, bringing letters and papers from the United States. Having been disappointed in our expecta- tions at Valparaiso, we were now all alive with pleasing anticipations ; the contents of the letter bag were poured out on deck, deep anxiety was depicted on every counte- nance, and each bundle was watched with the keenest soli- citude. Several of us had received no intelligence from friends since leaving the United States^ a period of nearly sixteen months ; yet on the present occa^on our fondest expectations were again blighted. During tlie general ex- citement of opening letters and packages, our ship had nearly rounded the point of St. Lorenzo, just at the en- trance of the harbor of Callao, where she received a salute of thirteen guns from the sloop of war Falmouth, then lying at anchor. This was succeeded by one of an equal number from the Dolphin, then fqllowing directly in our wake. The salutes were returned just on the eve of drop- ping our anchors. The scene was truly animating. We took our station outside of all the shipping in the harbor, in range with the Falmouth and Dolphin, and were ^oon visited by the captain of the port, and by the officers of the several ships of war. We found lying in the harbor, His Britannic Majesty's frigate Dublin, the Griffon, a French brig of war, and the Congresso, the Peruano, and the Macedonian, Peruvian vessels of war ; also a large number of coasting vessels, and a few merchantmen. At half past five, we salute^ 268 CRVISB OF THE POTOMAC. the Peruvian flag with twenty-two guns, which was retarn- ed with a salute of an equal number from the castle. The day had been one of cheerfulness to most of us, though of sadness to a few. At sunset, the Andes together with the spires and turrets of the churches and cathedrals of Lima, as seen in perspective, presented us with a charming spec- tacle. This was the first time all the ships of the Amer- ican squadron had met at the same port, and there was much that was pleasant and exciting on the occasion. On the seventeenth, the Commodore paid a visit to the different ships under his command, and was received with the honors due to an officer of his rank in our navy. The yards were manned, salutes were fired, the several crews were mustered and he passed by^ them in review. Soon after we came in port, there was a rumor in citculation on shore, that La Fuente the legal Vice President of Peru had come with us as a passenger from Chili, and there was considerable excitement among the people. An ex- press arrived from Lima to the captain of the port, with the strictest injunction not to suffer a boat from the Amer- ican squadron to land, and in pursuance of this injunction a file of soldiers was stationed at the quay. The authori- ties, however, were soon satisfied that the rumor which had given them so much uneasiness, was without founda- tion. It arose fi*om the circumstance of our having on board a Spanish gentleman, as a passenger from Valpa- raiso. Gamarra, the President of Peru, it seems was not very popular, while La Fuente had a strong party in hvi favor. RIDB INTO THE COUNTRY. 269 He had long been expected, and had he arrived at this time, a revolution would probably have been effected. The eighteenth was chiefly occupied in an interchange of visits between the officers of the several ships of war in port. Dinners were given. It was a jolly time in the steerage. Our midshipmen were presented with a case of "wyie, and the glass was circulating freely among them. The mess boys too, had taken a sly drink, and one of them came into the cockpit to borrow a tumbler of biti^ ter. On the twentieth I landed at Callao with one of the officers for the first time. After taking a peep at the town, we took horses and started for a ride towards Lima, but as the heat and dust were oppressive, we proceeded no farther than the half way house, which is a rancho, or small uninviting inn, with a large entrance, through which we rode on horseback, when we found ourselves among a com- pany of rough country people, with a display of bottles around us, while a second door opening further in, led to the dining room. Curiosity prompted us to visit an adja- cent church. A young woman whom we met at the en- trance, furnished us with the key. She was only thirteen years of age, yet had a child at the breast twelve months old. It is the custom here, as in Java and some other places, to marry quite young. The church is dedicated to the virgin of Mount Car me), protectress of seamen. We found it in a ruinous condition and most miserably fur- bished. The images and hangings about the altars were thickly covered with dust. I saw several miniature ships 2T0' CBUIBB or THE POTOMAC. Bttspeiided from the ceiling with their floating banners, as Toti?e offerings bj those who had been saved from perils at sea. In the gallery opposite the altar, was a miserable antiquated organ, whose pipes were shockingly out of tane. I blew the bellows, and my friend undertook to play upon it The sounds it emitted were not much Dke the ** ma- sic of the spheres." I attempted to ascend a flight of steps which led to the tower, but the narrowness of the passage, in connection with the dust and cobwebs, compelled me to relinquish the undertaking. It was a place fit only for " owls and satyrs to dance in," and might possibly have been a roost for the Padres hens and chickens. On oar return we passed through the small village of Bella Yista. That once flourishing place, now remains a monument ol the desolating effects of war. The majority of the houses have been razed to their very foundations. There are however about two hundred people living among the ruins. It was destroyed in a bombardment by the Spaniards in Callao, in 1825, when General Rodil held out in thut for- tress against the invasion of the patriot army. That offi- cer displayed the greatest skill and faithfulness to his king, as long as the possibility of resistance remained ; and his bravery on that occasion has been appreciated in his own country, where he now occupies the important post of com- mander of the army of operation. The hospital remains nearly entire. It is an immense pile occupying a whole block or square of the village. A family reside in it and one room is occupied as a school. In the time of the revolution it was used as a garrison for soldiers. General OLD CALLAO. 271 Bolivar and his troops qnartered here daring the blockade, and around the walls of the quadrangular court in the building are the names of the. patriot generals, Bolivar, Santander, Sucre, Miller, et cetera. In a remote recess of the building is a huge pile of human bones, the bones of prisoners who were shot by the order of Bolivar. On one side of the walls of this recess, was a painting in fres- co, of purgatory ; on the other, a representation of heav- en ; and the prisoners had their choice, whether to be shot in " heaven or in hell." In the immediate neighbor- hood of the village of Bella Vista is a ckacra, or farming establishment, embracing about three hundred and fifty acres, occupied by two enterprising Scotchmen. It is in very good keeping. We next visited the ruins of Old Cal. lao, which . was destroyed by the earthquake of 1746. Nothing but one wide waste of desolation presented itself to our view. The remains of many dwelling houses are still visible, and we could distinctly trace the walls of the city. The ground is strewed with human bones, bleach- ing on the desolate shore. Birds of prey are seen hover- ing over the spot. The bones might have been multiplied by the combined influence of earthquake and war ; yet they are generally said to be the relics of the unhappy be- ings who died of starvation in 1626, when Rodil, who had possession of the castle, held out till the last moment, when the ravages of famine compelled him to surrender. Melancholy reflections crowd upon the mind when visiting such a scene as this. The thought of thousands of citi- zens suddenly entombed in their watery beds, and of mul- S73 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. titudes sammoned unprepared, into the immediate pi ence of their God, was calculated to fill me with the deep- est sentiments of gloom and sadness. New Cailao, though the port of Lima, is without con- troversy the most miserable looking place on the coast. The principal street, following the curvature of the bay, b miserably paved, which renders walking disagreeable. The rest, excepting the one which leads in the pathway to Lima, are narrow, dirty lanes. The houses are gene- rally of one story, constructed of reeds, plastered with mud, and whitewashed; furnished with clumsy wooden balconies, and flag staffs. The roofs are flat, and covered with the same kind of materials which form the walls ; but instead of being kept for promenades, are the recepta- cles of broken bottles, demijohns, tumblers, vials, and window glass, old baskets, rams' horns, remnants of bed. ding, old boots, coats, and hats. There are few decent houses in the place. The one occupied by Mr. Salmon, the captain of the port, is the best. The interior of the dwellings is generally filthy. Passing by the door of the port surgeon, 1 4saw a hen and chickens sitting in the room where he was writing prescriptions for invalids. The wo- men are at their toilet about five o'clock in the aflernooUj after which they either thrum the guitar, or sally forth for a paseo, or walk. In passing their houses at any other , hour of the day, you see them with their dress hanging negligently about their persons, open behind, or exposing the bosom in front, with their feet perched upon the rounds of a chair, and perhaps sewing, or gazing at the passing •OLDlEKi. 278 iBtranger. Some might be seen swinging merrily in a Ouajaquil hammock, made of stained grass handsomely ▼ariegated. Before the doors of several houses, I noticed pOes of oranges exposed for sale. The orange women sat in their dishabille upon the pavements, mending their old garments, while their naked urchins were playing with the fruit. It is not uncommon to see persons examining each other's heads in the immediate vicinity, if not directly over the various articles they have for sale. The multitude of lazy, idle soldiers^ consisting of Indians, negroes, and mulattoes, lounging about the streets, fill the stranger with the most unfavorable impressions. A few are stationed on the quay near the landing, the remainder are saunter- ing about in every direction. Their uniform is ridiculous. It usually consists of a coat and pantaloons of coarse un- bleached canvas, trimmed with black cord. Sometimes the pantaloons are made of coarse flannel, with narrow stripes of black or yellow extending down the outward seam. They have a cartridge-box, a bayonet, and some* times a gun, but are oflener without the latter. A heavy leather bell-crowned cap, inclosed in a case of white cot- Ion, with a band of black ribbon, completes the list of articles. The Peruvian officej:s wear rich uniforms. They make a great display of epaulettes and gold lace. There is usually seen in the principal street, a coarse old fellow, with a long narrow book, bound in parchment, much time worn, crying suirtes, suites, para manana, giving us information that the lottery will draw the next day. This cry is accompanied with such a peculiar nasal 24 974 eiDIIK or TSB POTOMAC. timiig M is Ml etflily forgotten* He who wisliM ba a ohinee^ nwal pit his name down in the narrow book. The contraat between the inhabitanu of Pern and tbote of tke United States was truly striking, and led me le refleot with pleasure upon the superior advantages en- joyed by our own eitizens, for the cultivation of all thoie social cajoyments that trad to refine society, and exalt the human character. . I CHAPTER XXIM. Ride to Lima^-Entrance to the city^Houses— French inn — Character of the people— Monasterieft—rFriars — History of the city— Convent of St Francis-rChurche8<-Foundlinff Hospital — Institutions of learning— Revenue of Peru — State of the country — ^Holida7B--^a- thedral^Grand mass— Bull fight. Public coaohes start from Gallao for Lima, a distance of nine miles, every day at nine o'clock, a. m., and Ibar, p. M. I took a seat one morning with several of the offi- cers, and we rolled away in fine style. On the right of ns, perhaps a mile or more from the coast, was seen an urn of brick, whitewashed, on which stands a cross, to mark the spot where a vessel was wrecked by the collapse of the sea in the earthquake of 1746. The remainder of the ride presented nothing worthy of particalar notice. Few houses are to be seen on either hand, and the eye has little to rest upon^ except the distant towers and domes of Lima. These rise froto an elevation which is about seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, and have the Andes for a back ground, which however are too dis. tantto make any very striking impression. The entrance 376 CRUIfS OF THE POTOMAC. to the city of Lima is rery beautiful. Rows of shade trees line the road for some distance on either side, in the n- einitj of a murmuring rivulet ; while under the shelter of their branches are ranged convenient seats, afTording to the tired traveller a cool and refreshing repose for his wearied limbs. Near by are groves of orange and lemon trees, whose boughs laden with the richest fruit, overhang the surrounding walls, and impress the passing stranger with the idea that he is approaching the abodes of luxury and refinement. When he arrives within the walls of the city, however, he is somewhat disappointed. He is struck with the relics of former grandeur and magnificence, and he would hardly suppose himself in a city whose streets were once paved with ingots of gold, at the entrance of a viceroy. Many of the buildings are ancient and in a state of decay. They are seldom painted, and but par- tially whitewashed. On account of the frequency of earthquakes, they are commonly of but one story, built of sun dried bricks plastered on the outside, and with flat roofs, which are sometimes paved, affording an agreeable promenade. They usually have round the upper story a balcony in front, with trellis windows, after the Moorish style. The windows which are open nearly to the groandj have iron gratings, many parts of which are handsomely gilded. The largest have a court yard in front, the walls of which are sometimes fancifully painted, with an en- trance through arched porches and heavy folding doors. The houses of the wealthy are handsomely furnished. The walls are decorated with large paintings of saints. I' ^J SNTRANCB TO LIMA. 277 in richly emboised silver frames ; and the sofas and other furniture are covered with crimson damask. Our debut in the city was rather singular. In at- tempting to turn a corner, our steeds became unmanage- able, and we were near being capsized into a stream of water that was flowing along the centre of the street. It was some time before every thing was properly adjusted ; and in consequence of the bustle, we were surrounded by a large crowd of persons of both seizes, who appeared to consider us as fit subjects for their ridicule. The ladies, however, did not deign to look at us, except through a loophole of retreat ^ that is, according to the custom of the country, with one eye, the other parts of the face be- ing concealed under the folds of the manto. Our momen- tary danger and delay first directed our attention to the ase^ias, or water channels, which are among the most interesting objects of the city. These channels of ever flowing water are three feet wide and six inches deep, with margins so little elevated as to adcait of the free pas- sage of carriages, which cross and recross them with the • utmost facility. They flow in their freshness through the streets of Lima, which run east and west, deriving their supply of water from the Rimac through the Asequia Madre, or Mother Canai. We. stopped at a very comforta- ble inn kept by a French woman. At table we sat with about forty persons, most of whom wece regular boarders. According to the custom of the house, we were served with claret in the mornings and after a long interval, with coffee, eggs, ei cetera,, including cow'heel, a dish new to a** 378 ' CRUI8S OF TVI POTOICAC. me, though often met with in Spain, and a notable favorke of Sancho Panza. No pains were spared by our hostess to render her house agreeable to the guests ; and to crown all, she amused us with songs in the evening, accompa- nied with the piano forte. Among the attractions of the sitting room were a cabinet of shells, and specimens of rich gold and silver ores. A book written by a Mexican some years ago, with the title of ** Lima inside and out," among its severe and not unfounded satires upon the inhabitants of this city, accuses them of being sunk in degrading immorality, lower than almost any other people. And this is indeed the character they generally bear in South America. The auxiliary army of Colombia became demoralized, by a residence of a few months in this city, to such a degree that the more virtuous of the officers conferred upon it the name of ** New Capua." I could not but recall a remark of that author, when I saw the poor miserable donkeys which are used to carry burthens so disproportioned to their strength. He says that ** Lima is the beaVen of women, the purgatory of men, and the hell of jackasses." The poor animals appear to receive little compassion. They are seen passing through the streets in great num- bers, some groaning under their heavy burdens, others with packsaddles laden with two casks of water for sale. The driver, as if there was not load enough, frequently adds his own lazy carcass to the burden. I have ibund in several countries which were visited during our cruise, incontrovertible evidence that mo- MONAflTERIBS. S79 nasteries exert a most demoralizing infiuenee. In Lima, to saj nothing of other cities I have seen, friars are a nnlsanee. I was assured that multitudes of them are taken from the dregs of society. Convents are used to a considerable extent, as retreats for the dissolute an^ in- temperate. Most unfortunately, however, the evil influ- ence of such men is not counteracted by their confine- ment When a father has a profligate son whom he can- not restrain from vice, he sends him to a convent^ where, after passing his novitiate, he is not confined as he ought to be, within the walls of the institution, but is often al- lowed to go out in the disguise of a monk, when, having free access into society, he may accomplish much more evil than he could have done in his former circumstances. And so eflectually are all the bonds of human society sun- dered by the monastic rules, that in the just and forcible language of another, it may be said that ** friars enter their convent without knowing each other, live without laving each other, and die without lamenting each other." The dowry given with the female on taking the veil, formerly amounted to three thousand dollars, and many of the wealthy of the sex, on becoming nuns, declared their whole property to be their dowry. But circumstan- ces have greatly changed, and such instances of munifi- cence have become rare. Fewer enter the convent now - than formerly, and, so far as I * could learn, the number. of those who seclude themselves from the world purely on account of religious principles, is very limited. Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro, on the eighth 1 S80 CRUMB or TBB POTOMAC. of January, 1535, and was named Ciudad de las Reyes, (Citj of Kings) probably in commemoration of a festival held that day in honor of the joint soyereigns, Ferdinand, Jaana, and Charles of Castile. Stevenson says that the city was so called, from being founded on the day on which the Romish church celebrates the Epiphany, or feast in honor of the Magi, or three kings of the east. The term Lima is a corruption of Rimac, the name of tjie valley in which the city stands. The city is somewhat of a circular form. It is walled, and has nine gates, which are closed at ten o'clock at night, and opened at four in the morning. The wall is built of adobes, or sun dried bricks, made of clay and chopped straw. On one side of the city is the river Rimac. There is but one bridge which crosses it, furnishing a communication between the suburbs called Stm Laxeuro, and the principal part of the city. The bridge is built of stone, upon fire arches, with piers project- ing on either side, and is furnished with stone seats, to which many of the fashionables repair, and while away the summer evenings in familiar conversation. The streets of the city are broad, tolerably paved, crossing each other at right ancles, and furnished with flagged sidewalks. Among the public buildings of Lima, one of the most re- markable is the monastery of San Francisco, which occu- pies one eighth part of the city ; yet in spite of the wealth ^f this institution, the access to it is mean and uninviting^ at least in the direction of my approach. I had to pass through a filthy little market, and the first indication of proximity to a religious establishment, was a sign ofieriog CONTENT or ST. nUNGIS. 281 *' Plenary Indulgence/' I entered one of the tmall chap- els, which contained several images of the Savionr on the cross, and various paintings hung upon , the walls. St. Francis has scarcely a more deserted convent, I suspect, than that of Lima. The new governments of South Ame- rica have discouraged the monastic life, and several of them early passed laws for the suppression of convents. The monastery, in almost every respect, struck me with an air of desertion, which on the whole is the most agree- able impression that a convent ever conveysto my mind. Their solitary condition, like that of empty military bar- racks, affords the most favorable intimation of the peace and prosperity of the country. On making our appearance as strangers, a youth at- tached to the service of the altar, presented himself with an offer to conduct us through the spacious edifice. Yet I had proceeded biit a short distance, before he asked me for some money. I had no sooner put a piece of silver into his hand, than a dozen others crowded around us, clamorous for alms. One of our party, as an experiment, threw a little money upon the floor, when a terrible scram* bling commenced, though in a place which the applicants regard as consecrated. There were some marks of splendor in the architec- tural ornaments of the building, though the successive rulers of the city, during the past scenes of revolution, had long before stripped it of its most valuable movables. The cells for monks, as is. usual in convents, are ranged t83 CRUfM OF TMS POTOMAC. roQiid m Mlow Miuftre of oonsiderable size, with a fi>uiitaui playing ill the centre. Santo Domingo is periiaps the most magnificent charoh in the city. Its tower is said to be sixty-one yards higli. The ohnrch contains a few tolerable specimens of sculp- ture, and some fine paintings in fresco, with subjects taken ftom Scripture history. Formerly the churches of Lima were unrif ailed for their splendor, but during the rey8 underneath. On Ibe ^ 884 m CRVISB OF THV POTOMAO* ■oath aide are pri?ate dwellings, with their balconies and latticed windows. The building on the opposite side, for- merlj the vice regal palace, is now occupied by the Presi- dent of Peru. I passed through this building in company with a respectable Spaniard, who pointed out to me the precise spot, where tradition says Pizarro was killed. In the middle of the square is a handsome fountain, erect- ed in 1653. In the centre of it rises a brass cdumn, sur- mounted with a figure of fame, through the trumpet of which, the water was formerly ejected, but the fountain is now in a state of decay. In Lima is the college of San Carlos, formerly the best in South America. Scholars attend it from all parts of Peru, and some from Guayaquil. Two thirds of its grad- uates become lawyers, a few enter the service of the church, and the rest, belonging to families of affluence, are destitute of any regular pursuits. There is also a mil- itary and nautical college. The number of cadets in the former is four hundred. The institution sustains a good reputation, and the standard of scientific education is ris- ing in the army. There is also a medical college called JSan Fernando, H^nother college by name of Santa To- ribo, is scarcely superior to an academy in the United . States. Besides these there are several large schools on the Lancasterian plan. Of the latter, the principal is in the building attached to the church of Santo Tomas. The distinguished men of the republic, are not very numer- ous or very eminent. Luna Pizarro, dean of Arequipa, and Vigil, curate of Tacna, were the leading men in Con- ' ■ J * CONTENT OF ESPIBITU SANTO. 385 greaa, and they hare always been true to their principles. They are both men of talent, eloquence, and information. Some of the theologians and members of the bar are emi- nent in their profession, and men of good general informap tion. During my visit, I attended an examination of young ladies in various branches of education, at the convent of £lspiritu SwUo. I was much gratified, as it afforded me an opportunity of seeing the flower and pride of Peru. The seminary contaioied fifty pupils, many of whom were quite young. The exercises consisted of recitations, com- prising the common branches of education, with French, and music. The two last, are the chief embellishments of a yoang lady's education there. A large number of visitors of both sexes had assembled when we arrived, and others were collecting. These were of the most respectable class of citizens. Most of the females present, were very fair, and gaily attired. Their heads were decked with a pro- fusion of diamonds, jewels, and flowers. I saw but few dressed with the saya y manto ; they were generally habited after the French fashion. The President of the republic was expected, but did not condescend to favor us with his presence. The prefect was in attendance, a fine looking young man of about thirty years of age ; when he entered the hall he bowed very politely to all present, as he passed by to take his place. The ladies of Lima ap- peared to me in general to surpass any I had ever seen, in delicacy of form, and gracefulness of movement. The ; universal walking dress of females is the saya y manto, to I 25 S86 CBvin or thk potomac. which I have before alluded. It ii confined to this, and a few other cities of South America. The manto proba* blj had its origin with the Moors in Spain. The saya consists of an elastic petticoat, made generally of veket or satin, of black or cinnamon color, plaited up and down in very small folds, and so shaped as to fit very closely, allowing the wearer merely room for walking with a short step. The manto is a hood of black silk, drawn round the waist, and carried over the head so as to cover the whole upper part of the person. The ladies usually wear it so close, as to expose but one eye. Hence it becomes impossible to recognise even an intimate acquaintance, when enveloped in a saya y manto. To these two gar- ments are added a fine shawl, with silk stockings and satin shoes, while a rosary is held in the hand. On an evening promenade, the ladies are generally seen in the English dress, with a shawl thrown over the head, but never with any thing like a bonnet or hat. They are very fond of jewels and perfumery, and are addicted to smok- ing, though none but the lower classes indulge in the practice in public. The revenue of Peru, according to the statistical reports from the difierent provinces, was over five millions of dol- lars annually ; but in reality did not amount to more than three millions. Of this sum, about two millions enter the treasury at Lima ; the rest is expended in the provinces where it is collected. The amount uncollected remains standing over as bad, though still included in the esti- mates. That part of the revenue produced by commerce, FACB OF THE COUNTRY. 287 aboat one and a half millions of dollars at Lima^ and about two or three millions at the other custom houses of Peru. The mines were yielding abundantly. The prin- cipal article of export is dollars ; considerable quantities also of gold, silver, tin, bark, saltpetre, with hides and vicuna skins, and cotton are furnished for foreign mar- kets. The salary of the President of Peru was formerly thirty-six thousand dollars, but was reduced to twenty-four thousand, while we were at that city. He is elected by the people *as in our own country, and for a similar term of service. The Congress, in two chambers, commence their session annually in July.' All communication with the interior is by mules, and these animals while on a journey travel about six leagues a day. The mail is transported by them at the rate of sixteen to eighteen leagues for the twenty-four hours. There is no carriage road beyond the valley of Lima. The face of the country is much broken, and the roads are bad. The climate is the finest in the world. The evening atmosphere is always mild and pleasant. It never rains, but heavy mists, called Peruvian dews, are frequent. In Lima the thermometer ranges from sixty-two to sixty- five degrees, during the winter, and in the summer never rises higher than eighty-three. There is abundance of ice in the city all the year round, brought from the moun- tains about twenty-seven leagues distant. The climate on the whole coast is uniform. In the interior it varies according to the proximity to the snow with which the Andes are crowned throughout the year. S88 ORVIIB OV THB POTOMAC. There are some fkmiliefl with large incomes from en. tailed estates, and a few business men of heavy monied capital ; but most of the people are bad economists and ▼ery poor. The importation of slaves is not allowed, aod those that are natives of the country are free at the age of eighteen or twenty-one years of age. The treatment of the slaves is mild. The peasantry are but little re* moved from barbarism. On the coast the land is worked by slaves, and in the interior by the Indians, who are little superior in intelligence to the beasts they drive. In tlie large towns there is more civilization. In Arequips, Lima, Cuzco, and Truxillo, there are literary institutions, and education is somewhat advanced. The change here effected by the revolution has been much the same as in the revolutions of Europe : the rich have become poor, and the poor, rich. The lower and working classes have been gainers. Just before leaving the city, I was informed by our charge de affaires, that Gen. Cardena and Col. Sayer, the persons who were concerned in an attempt to depose the President of Peru a few weeks previous, had been tried by a court martial, and one of them expelled from the capital. It was not then determined what should be done with the other. I further learned that a demand had been made upon the foreign merchants resident at Lima, by the Peruvian government, to ban them money ; that the met- chants had held a meeting for the consideration of the subject, and had returned a negative answer. It conse* ' quence of this, a bill had passed both houses, and only ALAMEDA9. 289 nwailed the signature of the President, prohibiting all for- eign merchants who were not naturalized citizens, from transacting any business at the custom house. There was no money in the treasury. The soldiers were clamorous, mnd the government was unable to pay them off. The latter intimated that should a general system of plunder take place, it would be out of their power to prevent it. •The merchants did not consider .their property safe. The alamedas or malls are among the most attractive objects in the South American cities, two of which are in the vicinity of Lima* The old one is about half a mile in length, with a double row of willow trees on either side, inclosing shady foot walks. In pursuing the carriage way, you pass three old fountains, and at the northern extrem- ity have a beautiful view of the church and convent of San Diego, with several others in the vicinity. One of the old viceroys, Amar, had designed to form an artificial cascade here, and dug a large shallow basin, into «which the water was te be led by massive pipes supported by Grecian columns; but dying before his work was com- pleted, we find at the present day the columns and the basin just as he left them. The new alameda is about a mile in length, and has some advantages over the old one. The foot walks are furnished with double ranges of seats, and at the farther extremity is a commodious cold bath supplied by a spring of beautiful limpid water, whose spa* cious bathing room is covered with a roof of vines sup- ported by a trellis. Abottt half past nine in the morning, the great bell of 25* 300 CRtJMB Of THE POTOMAC. the cathedral tolls. At this time the host at high mass is elevated. The most interesting scene takes place when the 9racion bell is rung. This takes place at sunset. As soon as the bell tolls all is silent as the grave. Not a whis- per nor a footstep is heard \ as if by enchantment, all in a moment becomes motionless. Every one takes off his hat ; some kneel till the third bell is tolled, when again all is bustle and confusion. I was fortunate in l>eing at the metrppolis just at the commencement of the holidays. On Christmas, we wit- nessed all manner of merry-making. Images of the Virgin Mary, and of other saints as large as life, were to be seen in the streets, placed under temporary booths, for the pur- pose of collecting money for the priests ; while music of the most rude and noisy character was employed to attract the attention of the populace. The plaza or public square was brilliantly illuminated, and crowded with people of every rank, grade and description, from the renowned hidalgo down to the sooty faced African. All kinds of eat- ables and drinkables were exposed for sale. The scene was one of great hilarity. Precisely at twelve o'clock, (midnight) the great bell of the cathedral began to toll, when I accompanied a large number of apparent worship- pers to the celebration of grand mass. The cathedral is a large spacious building, and on the present occasion it had a splendid appearance, lit up as it was with countless numbers of wax tapers. The people had collected to pay their evening devotions, and the silence of death reigned throughout every apartment of the building. The heavy BULL FIGHT. 291 Aote9 of the cle«p toned organ, and the devout appearance of the worshippers, could not fail to interest the mind of the spectator. On the following day, all the churches were decked with ribbons and .wreaths of flowers. They were the most splendidly furnished of any I had yet visit* ed. T^he day was spent in processions through the streets, and in the celebration of mass. To the majority it wm simply a day of amusement. On Monday following I attended a bull fight, at which there were probably not less than ten thousand spectators, men, women, and children. How females can witness «uch i^cenes of barbarity, not only without shuddering, but with strong expressions of pleasure, I cannot understand. My own feelings were shocked to such a degree, that no coasideration whatever would induce me again to be pre- sent at such an exhibition. ** The amphitheatre in which bull fights are held, is the best constructed and most con- venient place of public amusement in Lima. The exte* rior wall is a circus of about half a mile in circumference ; three tiers of boxes inclose an uncovered arena. Above the ground tier and in front of the middle one, which I'er cedes, ten or twelve rows of benches are placed, which dope from the front of the boxes to the extreme edge of the roof of the lower tier. The seats accommodate ten thousand spectators, and, whenever this favorite diversion takes place, are crowded as well with beauty and rank, at with the motley and variously tinged populace." The Pre* sident's seat is in the middle of one of the sides, and is richly ornamented. Many senators and other distinguish* 298 CEUUE OF THE POTOBIAC. •d penonagee of the repablic were present. The musi- cians and the life guards were stationed near the Presi- dent's box. Ladies and gentlemen of quality occupied the galleries, while the people of the lower orders found seats in the pit below. Opposite to the President's seat was the gateway, through which the bulls were to be ad- mitted into the arens. The spectators were amused in preparation for the show, by the evolutions of soldiers, who marched about the arena for some time, and performed exercises regulated by the notes of a bugle, without the aid of a single word of command. After they had retired, a number of men on foot and on horseback, armed with swords and spears, took their stations in the arena, silently fti^aiting the approach of the first animal that was doomed to die for the amusement of the spectators. Some of these men were criminals, who were to receive pardon on con- dition of their dexterous performance. At length, the signal being given, the gate flew open, and the bull, afler having been kept a long time in total darkness, rushed, elegantly caparisoned, into the presence <^ the crowd, di- rectly in the face of his antagonist; when a deafening shout burst forth on all sides of him. A horseman ap- proached, waving a red mantle in his face, avoiding his attacks with great skill and dexterity. The bull, foiled in his exertions to revenge himself upon his first enemy, made towards a figure raised in the centre of the arena, resem- bling a woman on horseback, dressed in white, with a sword in her right hand. Tossing the lifeless image into the air, he made after his living tormentors, several of whom BULL FIGHT. 293 now succeeded in inflicting deep wounds in his neck and *dides. The combat continued till the animal was nearly exhausted, when a man plunged a broad dagger into hii^ neck^ divided the spinal marrow, and in an instant put an end to his sufferings. " Foil'd, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last, Full in the centre stands the bull at bay, 'Mid wounds, and clinging darts, and lances brast, And foes disabled in the brutal fray ; And now the matadors around him play. Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand. Once more through all. he bursts his thund'ring way — Vain rnge ! the mantle quits the cunning hand, Wraps ms fierce eye— 'tis past — he sinks upon the sand !" The successful assailant, greeted with the loudest accla- mations, solicited and received a reward in silver, from the judges of the day. The mangled carcass of the ani- mal having been removed by a train of horses, another bull was admitted, when the same bloody scenes were re- peated. ''The bulls destined for the ring are obtained prin- cipally from the woods in the valleys of Chincha, where they are bred in a wild state. To catch and drive them to Lima, a distance of sixty leagues, is a matter of no in- considerable expense. The taste for bull fights, introdu- ced by the early Spaniards, is retained by their American descendants with undiminished ardor. The sport is con- ducted with an eclat that exceeds the bull fights in every- other part of South America, and perhaps even surpasses those of Madrid. The death of the bull, when properly managed, creates as much interest in the ladies of Lima, as the death of the hare to the English huntress." Lwai 800O tired of the exhibition, and having seen several fine 894 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. animals inhamanly mangled, withdrew under the convic- tion that I had witnessed a scene unworthy of being tole- rated in a civilized community. I could not but feel, however, when I reflected on the scenes of inhumanity which are exhibited in the amphithei^tre, that much re- mains to be done, before the reproach of cruelty and a thirst for blood can be wiped away from the city. Having spent several days in Lima, though without en- tirely satisfying my curiosity, £ returned with the intention of occasionally revisiting that capital. CHAPTER XXIV. Second viait to Oallao— Religious meeting on board the Dolphin- Chaplains — Remarks concerning^ the navy — Carnival— Washing- ton's birth day — ^Visit from President Gamarra and lady — Depar- ture from Callao—Island of Juan Fernandez— Arrival at Valparaiso Mr. Penniman, his sickness, .death, and burial— Passion week— Cer- emonies. I SHALL not attempt to present in order the various topics which succesisively occupied my attention during the present stay at Callao. We remained until the last of February, during which time our ship was overhauled and painted. I made many excursions on shore and took several rides to the capital. Soon after our arrival at the port, I received an invi^ tation from Lieutenant Moores to attend a religious ipeet- ing on board the Dolphin. Most of the crew were present. One of them, a man past middle age, arose at a suitable time, and made some remarks on the importance of at- tending to the subject of religion. No attempts perhaps are less likely to succeed, than those sometimes made by persons not experienced in sea affairs, to illustrate serious subjects by the use of nautical terms : yet seamen them- 8D6 . CBUItS OF TUB POTOMAC. ■dTM frequently employ them for this purpose with great eflhct The seaman just mentioned, speaking of the flight of time, said " It holds a straight coarse, and makes no lee way." It is calculated to excite feelings of interest in the mind of a man accustomed to religious privileges and re- ligious society, to be placed among those who are aniuous to hear religious truth. It was affecting to me on looking around on such a collection of sailors, to see individuals lis- tening with seriousness to every word that was uttered. In the course of the week I received a joint letter from three or four seamen on board the United States ship Falmouth, respectfully requesting me to instruct them in the Scrip- tures. At a subsequent meeting, two or three of them in- formed me, that for some time past they had privately held regular meetings for prayers, under the '* booms." Those meetings were afterwards enlarged by the addition of sev- eral of their messmates ; and permission being obtain- ed to occupy the gunner's room for such purposes, they were regularly continued in that place. I have mentioned these facts for the same reason that before induced me to speak of the Bible class on board the Potomac, that is, that others may be encouraged to watch every opportunity for giving religious instruction to seamen, since they are sometimes willing and even anxious to receive it. ■ Chaplains in the naval service should not only be pi- ous, but bold, fearless and efficient men. Their discour- ses should be characterized by plainness and common CHAPLAINS. 297 aense, coming from a warm hearty withdut the affectation of frivolous ornament.^ The truth being brought home to the heart and conscience, the happiest effects might be expected to follow. It is true there are some difficulties in connection with the naval service, which are c^culated to discourage and dishearten the faithful chaplain, but in many instances these have been overcome. The chaplain will often find himself wartnly supported by the comman- der, and were this universally the case, it is easy tei see how much more favorably his instructions would be view- ed. When the pure truths of the gospel are exhibited to the mind of a sailor, either in their awful or alluring forms, they seldom fail of making some salutary impressions. If the faithful chaplain has reason to look for obstacles, the sailor has also his own ^cial difficulties to encounter. Prejudice and ridicule often present to his mind barriers which are deemed insurmountable. Yet these in many instances have been broken -down. Seamen have been known to take determined and open ground, as the friends of religion, and of its advocates and ministers. Such are doubtless known to some of my readers, and we might rea** sonably expect that such examples would be multiplied, if the proper means were employed to promote religion among that class of men. The appearance of American armed vessels at the various ports of South America, as well as at other places during our cruise, was evidently attended with important *A sailor once remarked in reference to a certain chaplain, " that he had too many mais-top-bowling words/^ 26 906 CRUISE OF THl POTOMAC. resoltfl ; at least so far as the interests of commerce were concerned. The Malays were not the only people who ' were likely to remain ignorant of the dignity and power of our happy republic ; and nothing short of visible repre- sentations would have sufficed to secure that measure of national respect, which is always indispensable to tbe pre- servation of commercial privileges. The United States ship Peacock has doubtless in her late cruise, rendered material service to American interests in the Red sea, akid in other places where our flag had been previously but little known. This branch of our national policy, therefore, it seems likely will be continued. I cannot but feel, however, that our naval system embraces some evils that ought to be done away. The existence of certain neglected laws is one ; the iqAiction of corporeal punishments is another ; the admission of ardent spirits is a third; and the em- ployment of the Sabbath, in some cases, as a day of spe- cial discipline among the seamen, is a fourth. The mere mention of such things will suffice to show that a remedy is greatly needed. I make no invidious comparisons be- tween the difibrent vessels, but fix my eye upon the whole navy ; and having been three years in service, under cir- cumstances favorable for observation, I feel constrained as a friend to my country to say, that her dearest interests require tbat there should be some further improvemeotg brought into the naval establishment. On the eighth of February, 1833, was the commencement of carnival. During this season, the people give themselves up to all kinds of boisterous amusement The most singu. CARNITAL. 399 lar of these, to a stranger, is a sort of skirmish, in which «gg shells filled with water are used for ammunition. At the commencement of the carnival, a multitude of ped- dling boys traverse the "streets with these water loaded shells, for the supply 6f such as intend to engage in this sort of warfare. Shells are seen flying in every direction through the streets ; between opposite buildings ; from pavement to balcony, and frpm balcony to pavement. The aggressors are gener||lly ladies. The most furious ▼oUeys of all, are seen issuing from their chamber win* dows. No well dressed man who presumes to walk out, can expect to escape a pelting from them. Their cur- tains, however, are not always a protection against re- tributive shells. Considerable sums of money are ex- pended by some faimiliesin the purchase of these missiles. Vast quantities of them are broken, and the fragments scattered in the streets have the appearance of snow. The custom is of ancient origi^. On the twenty-second, Washington's birthday was noticed by a salute of seventeen guns from the Potomac,, and as many from the sloop of war Falmouth, and at about four o'clock in the afternoon we had the pleasure of a visit from President Gamarra and his lady. When they came on board, they were received with a salute of twen- ty-one guns, and after inspecting the several parts of the ship and expressing their gratification, lefl us under re- newed firing. More than two hundred guns were fired by different vessels in the harbor on that day, and as 300 <3Rt»8B or THB POTOMAC. t fort on shore made some reply, the affair may be said to have ended in soioke. For once we iaw a Peruvian lady in a bonnet ; for Mrs. Gamarra on that occaaion wore one. The Presi- dent has nothing very commanding in his appear- ance, but in the countenance of his wife may be seen traces of the 'violent passions which are said to rule her, and in some cases to have exerted a strong and unfavor- able inilu^ice upon the country. ^ On the twenty-seventh, we set sail from Callao to pay a second visit to Valparaiso, and perhaps our ship was never got under way with greater dispatch, or in more sea- manlike style. It was gratifying to us all to be once more at sea, especially as the weather was fine and the breeze was fair. Our passage was short and pleasant. The nights were charming. The moon shone unclouded upon the deep, tempting us to spend our evenings till a late hour on deck. The island of Massafuera was descried on the twelfth of March, but with a strong breeze we passed rapidly by it a little after nightfall ; and on the following morning saw Juan Fernandez, whose name is so intimately associated in the minds of thousands, with one of the favdrite ro- mances of childhood. At the sight of this island one almost believes, in spite of his acquaintance with the ficti- tious nature of the tale, that Robinson Crusoe and bis man Friday once really held their secluded residence upon its shores. On the fourteenth, after some delay ftom Hit. PBNNIJtfAN. 301 calms and mistSy we ^moyed once more into the harbor of Valparaiso, and cast anchor in the midst of a scene as fa- miliar as th6 face of a former acquaintance. In December, 1832, while our ship was lying, at Callao, I became acquainted with Mr. Penniman, of the United States' ship Falmouth. As he was of the same profession as myself, we could sympathize together in the little trials necessarily attendant upon the faithful discharge of our duties. Little did I think at that time, that it would ever fall to my lot to close his dying eyes, and weave the cy- press wreath around his grave. As our ship was so soon to sail for Valparaiso, Mr. Penniman took passage with us^ with the hope that his health which was th^n in an enfeebled state, might be restored by means of the voyage and change of climate. He was very cheerful when he came on board, and complained but little, and we all hoped that his life might be spared till he should return to his native country. But He whose ways are not as ours, and who ^eeth not as man seeth, had otherwise determined. On the fifth of March, while sitting in the bridle port with one of the assistant sufgeons, he placed his hand upon his breast and exclaimed, ''Something is wrong here." He was immediately seized with a violent hemorrhage of the lungs, which reduced him so much that he was obliged to be laid on his cot ' Two days after, he had a second attack. From that time his health declined, and he soon i^linquished ail hope of recovery^ The next day after the above mentioned, being in the harbor of Valparaiso, we carried him adiore that he might be freed from the noise «6* 1 CAITIftB or THB POTOMAC. and buflde of the ship. A hectic ferer let in, and he gradually watted awaj. It wae often my privilege to watch beside his couch, and administer such consolations as his case might admit. I visited him on the afternoon of the thirtieth, and as I was about returnipg to the ship, he desired me to remain with him. He said his sufferings would soon terminate, and seemed fully sensible of his approaching dissolution. He sent his affectionate remem- brances to the officers of the Falmouth, and soon after breathed his last. He bore his sufferings with great forti- tude and patience, and died ere his sun had reached its meridian. No mother's soothing attentions smoothed his passage to the tomb. No sister's voice fell upon his ear in tones of love and sympathy. His eyes were closed in a land of strangers; yet he did not die un- honored or unlamented. He was a modest, unassuming man, and will long be remembered with affliction by those who had opportunities of knowing his worth. I reported his death on board, and arrangements were made for the funeral. On the morning of the first of April, at three o'clock, four large lanterns, together with the coffin covered with a flag, were placed in a boat, and I left in company with midshipman Claiborne and a few seamen, for the house where the remains of the deceased lay. We placed them in the coffin and conveyed them to the burial ground, situated on a high hill in the vicinity. The morning was dark, and the road to the place of sepulture wound about the hills in a zigzag course. The singularity of our er- rand, the deathlike stillness of the streets, interrupted only PASSION WKBK. 308 by the watchman's cry, and the appearance of the proces- sion dimly seen by the light of the lanterns, produced in my mind associations peculiar and melancholy. The body being deposited, we returned on board at ftre o'clock. At ten/in company with several of the officers, I again went on shore, where with some of the citizens we formed a procession, and mored to the church yard, where, in the absence of the chaplain, I read the beautiful - and impressive burial service over the grave of our de- parted friend. It was formerly customary to bury the dead by day- light, but as the funerals of foreigners were attended with more splendor than those of the natives, a jealousy was created ; the governor therefore directed that all burials should take place in the night. The greatest farce I ever witnessed was acted at Valpa- raiso, in Passion week, which occurred during our second visit to that port. On Good Friday, every house and shop was closed ; riding was prohibited, and vigilantes^ or watchmen, were stationed in almost every street, to seize such as might transgress the prohibition. A stillness per- vaded the place most of the day, more profound than I have ever known in any town in the United States, even on the Sabbath. In the morning a procession was form- ed, which moved through the streets with the images of the Saviour and Judas Iscariot. In the evening, a statue of the former was exhibited near one of the churches, bearing a cross ; and during the time corresponding to the three hours of darkness afler the death of the Saviour, ^ I 304 CR1TI8B OP THB POTOMAC. certain ceremonies were performed, having reference to the events recorded bj the evangelists as having transpired during that period. At about nine o'clock^ the governor's band paraded the streets, playing a plaintive air reeem- bliog a dead march. The nei^t day, effigies of Judas, made of old clothes stuffed with hay, perhaps twenty in number, were seen about the city, and one hjinging from the yard arm of a Chi- lian vessel of war. After having been suspended a while in the streets, they were pelted, with stones and rotten eggs, and finally burnt, with the explosion of crackers which had been put within them. Some of the effigies were shot at with muskets. Salutes were fired by the fort and the brig of war Aquiles ; and during this day and the day previous, all the vessels in the harbor from Catholic countries had their yards '' acockbiil," that is, in the form of a St. George's cross. Some vessels had their yards painted black, besides, in token of mourning. The suc- ceeding Sab|)ath was a day of feasting and various excesses. We spent nearly two months at Valparaiso on our second visit, during which I made many excursions in the vicinity of the town. Much of my time was spent among the hospitable families on Monte Alegre, and I formed a familiar acquaintance with the city and many of the na- tive inhabitants. Peaches, apricots, apples, pears, straw, berries, and grapes, were at that time in season; and though they are inferior in flavor to those of our own coun* try, they proved a very grateful and wholesome addition to our diet CHAPTER XXV. Departure from Valparaiso— Port of Coquimbo— Whale ships— Visit to the city— Cathohc procession — Silver mill— Shock of an earthquake — Quarantine — Whaling scene — Departure-Arrival at Callao-Fruits — French brig— Rumor of an insurrection— Celebration of Peruvian independence — Departure from Callao — Arrival at Pay ta— Rendez- vous for whale ships— Face of the country— Inhabitants. On the twenty-first of May, we left Valparaiso for Co- qaimbo, lying in a northern direction, with the expecta- tion of returning in about six months. I have seldom en- joyed so much at sea as during a part of our passage. We were favored generally with pleasant weather: To glide smoothly along a tranquil sea in full sight of the coast, with a noble range of mountains presenting itself like a wall of immeasurable length and height, naturally rai- ses the spirits and gives rise to interesting reflections. Our ship thus moved on, sometimes with her studding sails set, until the afternoon of Sunday the twenty-sixth, when we entered our port and came to anchor about sun- set. Here we found an indifferent harbor, and a small settlement consisting of a collection of huts with a few bet- ter buildings. Two American whale ships were the only vessels in port. One of these, the Milo, which had been ^ 306 CRUISE or the potomac. oat thirty months, had obtained only half a cargo of oil ; the other, the Corinthian, Iroin Bristol, R. I., had taken but a single whale. The captain of the Corinthian, had lost his own brother, mate of his vessel, a few days before by the small pox, and when he visited us he appeared much de- pressed. I was happy to learn that a religious meeting had been recently held on board one of these vessels, and that we might expect some of these countrymen of ours to attend service in our ship, whenever opportunity might offer. The most singular water craft I ever saw, were the balsas or skin boats, used by the watermen of Coquimbo. They are made of skins rudely fastened together, pointed at the ends, yet in such a manner as to be air tight. They are then inflated and moved by a long double paddle. They bound over the waves rapidly, and are considered safe even among the rocks, so long as the skins remain uninjured. I took an early opportunity of visiting the shore, to enjoy a ramble among the hills and dales. The scenery was generally devoid of interest, but when we reached the brow of a high hill, which showed us the ocean rolling far beneath our feet, the prospect was more cheering. At Horse Shoe bay we found a miserable village, consisting entirely of huts, and were annoyed by pestilent little beg- gars, who came out to us on our approach; On returning to the port, we called at the house of Mr. Richardson, an English merchant, who received us with hospitality. It had rained a short time before our arrival, an occurrence that attracted much attei^tion, as it was the first of the CITT OF coaviMBO. 307 kind which bad been imltnessed within three j^ears. Most of the inhabitants seemed to be poor, a great part of them living on clams and scollops, which abound in the vicinity. I was informed that their pove^rty was in part owing to the long drought, which had caused the death of a million of animals in the country. The recent shower had raised the spirits of every body, and it was confidently expected by many that the jrains would make them rich. Several of the officers of our ship paid a visit to the copper minea in the interior, but found them rather desUtute of interest. The weather was variable during our stay ; sometimes pleasant, and sometimes cloudy, wet, and cold. On the fifth of June, I visited the city of Coquimbo, about seven miles distant from the port in a northerly direction. The city stands in a beautiful plain, and the entrance to it is through an arched gateway similar to that at Lima. It is l,aid out in squares, and covers a mile. The houses, like those of South America generally, are one story in height, with flat and tiled roofs, and have rather a neat appearance. They are built pf stone, wood or mud, according to the various circumstances of the in- habitants. The streets, for a Spanish city, are remarka- bly clean, well paved and flagged. There are fourteen Catholic churches in the city, a large supply one would think, for a population of only seven thousand. The town is supported by the profits arising from the copper and silver mines, and from traffic with the miners. Some of the citizens have the appearance of wealth. The general aspect of the place is interesting. The inhabitants appear 906 CEUItE OF TBB POTOMAC. healthy, robust, active, and intelligent. They have clear coBsplexions, are well dreesed, and are civil in their man- ners. From a high hill, not far off, we enjoyed a delight* fill view of the city, with its domes and steeples, pleasant walks and shady trees, while a large extent of level and fertile country spread aronitd us, teeming with verdure under the influence of the late welcome rain. The mag- nificent Andes, meanwhile, were displaying an anusual quantity of snow upon their sides and summits, promising a long and abundant supply of water to the vales at their feet In the evening we saw an enormous bonfire, kin- dled in anticipation of the ceremonies of the following day, the Catholic celebration of Corpus Christi. In the morn- ing, high altars were erected at each square, with looking glasses placed upon them, carpets spread in front, and temporary arches decked with nnislin, calico, and scarlet bombazette, glittering in the bright sunbeams, and streaming in the winds. A procession was formed from the church, headed by a drummer in a mean dress, who was followed by a priest, bearing a high cross, and a cylindrical lamp, and by a number of paen with lighted candles. Next came the musicians : a negro dressed in a blue frock coat, playing* on a clarionet, and another in black, scraping a fiddle. Behind these, followed a num« her of boys in satin sj^arfs, with trays of flowers which they scattered as they passed along. Several priests under a canopy of crimson satin succeeded, one with a prayer book, and another with a golden image of the Saviour, before which he knelt on reaching one of the altars in the SILYEE MILL. 909 square. The governor followed the priests in a plain uni* form of blae, and cocked hat fringed with feathers, attend- ed by the lieutenant governor and staff; while a mingled crowd of men, women and children brought up the rear. It is supposed by the people that the Saviour descends on that day and administers to the sick. Near sunset we rode back to the port with several of the officers whom we had met aft Coquimbo, and were rowed to the Potomac in the life boat, about eight o'clock inthe evening. At a subse- quent visit to the city I went to the silver mill, and saw the processof extracting the metal from the ore. A number of peons were at work, and I had, opportunity to converse at leisure, with the master and major domo of the estab- lishment The greatest readiness was shown in conduct- ing me to different parts of the mill, and in informing me concerning its operations. The director displayed much good nature, and some smartness in the remarks he occa- sionally made. While pointing out to me the furnaces in which the amalgam of mercury and silver is heated for the evaporation of the former metal, he said jocosely, '' There is the place where we burn heretics !" I saw heaps of plata pina lying on the ground, which, if I mistake not, is the ore in its crude state as it is lef^ afler the mercury, has been separated from it. The process of refining the ore is generally this : the pieces of rock containing it are pulverized, and then washed in troughs with a quantity of water and mercury. The water sets afloat a part of the earthy matter, and carries it off into another compartment p( the trough, while the particles of silver sink, and com- 87 310 CRUI8I or Tin potomac. ing into eontact with the mercury, unite with it by a na« tural affinity, and form an amalgam. This is taken from the bottom of the different compartments, and being soft and adbesire, is made into balls, and afterwards heated in a furnace, having but one aperture like a reiatt Through this, the mercury ascends in vapor to a small chamber, where it is cooled, and falls in pure quicksilver, ready to be used again in the washing trough. The silver by this process is left in the form of the original balls, with the exception of small cavities, before occupied by the mer- cury. The balls are melted and cast into bars. On the sixteenth of June, while on board the ship, I felt a jarring, such as might have been caused by a heavy trampling on the deck above me. It lasted about fifteen seconds, and proved to be a slight shock of an earthquake. One of our officers, who was on shore, felt it very sensi- bly. He had happened to meet with an old Spaniard from Buenos Ayres, who had been accustomed to earthquakes, when the latter, perceiving something peculiar in the as- pect of things around him, anticipated the shock, exclaim- ing ** tembhTf temblor I" During the latter part of our stay at this place, we were compelled to ride at quarantine, on account of sick- ness which occurred on board. We were permitted to land on that part of the coast which is seen towards the left hand of the adjoining picture, and could not go beyond the little smooth spot on the hill which is inclosed by rocks. There we used to beguile the hours with such rustic amusements as were within our reach. It is 8ur»i WHALING 8C|iNE. 311 prising to see how soon men begin to act and feel like chil- dren, when confined to such employments. On the fourth of July the American independence was celebrated on board. On the fifth, we witnessed a whal- ing scene in the harbor of Coquimbo. There were at that time, besides the three American whale ships at an- chor in the harbor, two French ships on a whaling voyage, the crews of whiph proved themselves on the occasion both ▼igilant and active. The latter first discovered two whales entering the harbor, and immediately dispatched their boats to get outside of them, and drive them towards the shore. The American whalers were soon in the pursuit. Our shrouds were manned and our forecastle crowded by our crew, who expressed great interest in the enterprise, though at the distance of two or three miles from the scene. The Frenchmen had the advantage as to distance and information, and soon fixed a harpoon in one of the whales. ** Now he is sky-larking ! see, how he's lying to !'' ex- claimed one from our forecastle. '' Now for a Nantucket sleigh ride !" and away went the little boat in the direc- tion of the line of the harpoon. The whale, alternately rising out of the water and plunging into the deep, soon began to spout currents of the blood-stained element, which could be distinctly seen from our ship, as the chase had driven him within half a mile of us. The second whale was harpooned in a similar manner. But during the heat of the contest a melancholy accident occurred. One of the French boats was struck by the tail of the fish first « harpooned, and capsized, by which one of the men in it 312 CKUI0B OF THE POTOMAC. w«8 killed ootrighty and sunk ; another had his head hro- ken, and died soon, and another had an arm and leg firac- tored. The two last were immediately taken from the water by their companions, who, howeTer, pursued the whales till they had killed both. Our boats were then dis- patched to assist in towing them to the French ships, where they were cut in pieces without delay. We saw the crews for a long time engaged in hoisting on board the great pieces of blubber. One of the whales was rather small ; the other was quite large, and yielded about one hundred barrels of oil. On the ninth of July, we left Coquimbo for a second ▼isit to Callao ; and on the following day had a fair, fresh wind, which carried us forward at a rapid rate. On our arrival, which was on the night of the seventeenth, we bad several men sick with the small-pox, and the next day were quarantined. At the end of two days, however, we received pratique, and were furnished with several kinds of fruit from the shore. The chirimoya, so remarkable for its fine qualities, was in bloom during my first visit at Callao. Its flowers were among the principal objects which attracted my attention at Miraflores. They emit a delightful firagrance, which is remarkably diffusive. The perfume of a single one, it is said, will suffice to fill a large apartment. The fruit, which was now ripe, has been cel- ebrated ever since the discovery of the country, when, in the first reports that reached Spain, it was compared to a net full of honey. It is shaped like a heart, and its out- ward texture has some resemblance to that of a pineapple. FRKNCH BRIO. 313 Its flavor 15 exceedingly delicate, not unlike that of the strawberry mingled with ice cream. We ate it with tear spoons, and found it both wholesome and nutrittious. In addition to the chirimoya, we were furnished with grapes, figs, pomegranates, quinces, bananas, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, melons, and paltas, or alligator pears, all excellent in quality, and existing in great abundance. The ladies of Lima have a peculiar fondness for flowers, and the gardens we saw contained most of the species known in our own country, with a variety of others pecu* liar to tropica] climates. Just before we came in, a French brig was seized for smuggling. She is said to have had on board about a hundred thousand dollars in smuggled coin. Her mate fled to one of the ships of war in port, for protection. He returned, however, and at three diflerent times carried on board the man of war five thousand dollars, in all fifteen thousand ; filled his boots with doubloons, and passed a box of money through a cabin window into a boat, and carried it also on board the ship for safe keeping. He is said to have secured above thirty thousand dollars in this manner. While the choloes (Indians) were ransacking the brig in search of the money, he, knowing where it was concealed, watched his opportunity, and secured it. The custom house officer seized on about sixty thousand dollars, which was found under a quantity of saltpetre. It appears that an Italian on board, had suffered some pun- ishment, and, for revenge, swam ashore and gave infor- mation to the custom house authorities, of the smuggled 27* 914 CRUtSB or TUB rOTOMAC. monej. Th6 part seized by them, though forfeited to the ^▼emment according to law, was afterwards restored. While we were at Callao, a report was circulated that an insurrection had taken place in Ayacucho and Cuzco; and at four o'clock in the morning, the President left the city at the head of eight hundred men, to suppress it ; and a few hours after, he was fi)Uowed by a body of sixty horse- men. This moTement caused some bustle in the city, and the number of officers in full uniform who wiere seen about the streets, gave it an animated, military air. Some per- sons regarded this report as got up by Gamarra, to gire himself an opportunity of withdrawing the troops from the capital. The anniversary of Peruvian independence, was cele- brated on Sunday, the twenty-eighth of July. A proces- sion was formed in the plaza or great square : the troops were out and fired a salute, and the public officers attend- ed mass. The cabildo, or corporation house, fronting the plaza, was festooned with curtains and illuminated in the evening, and splendid fireworks were displayed. The private houses were illuminated on that and the two fol- lowing evenings. At the end of the balcony of the cabil- do was exhibited an inscription, purporting that it was the annfversary of the day on which the Peruvians had obtained freedom from three long centuries of bondage to the Spanish power. On placards were seen a variety of shorter inscriptions, such as ** Hiizza for Peru!" '' Long live the country !" On the tenth of August we felt a slight shock of an PATTA. 316 ejffthqaake, aod on the eighteenth saw all oyr squadron once more assembled in the same harbor. Nothing fur- ther remarkable occurred during our stay, and on the twentjHsecond we leA the port for Payta. The Falmouth and the Dolphin accompanied us out of the harbor, ex- changed salutes and returned, while we went on our own course in a northern direction, anchoring at Payta on the twenty-fiflh, after a remarkably quick and pleasant pas* sage. Payta is the port of Piura, a city situated fourteen leagues inland. The town is built />n the margin of a small bay, the houses rising above each other on the side of a steep hill as at Valparaiso. The harbor is commo- dious, with a good anchorage and landing : it is much fre- quented hy whalers.* About eighty sail touch there an- nually. The surrounding country is a barren, sandy waste, without a blade of grass or a green leaf The town is supplied with water from Golan. It is brought on the backs of donkeys about four leagues distant, and the price is consequently dear. > Payta was destroyed by Lord Anson in 1741, but it now contains about five hundred huts or houses, inhabited principally by Indians, the num- ber of whom I could not ascertain. There are two Catho- lic churches in the town, and the inhabitants are re- markably superstitious and easily imposed upon by their priests, in whom they place implicit confidence. If a person loses an infant, he is obliged to pay the priest five * In a single month of the previous j^ear, not less than twenty came ]n,*with fourteen thousand harrels of oiL 315 ORUIBB or THE TOTOMAC. dollars for saying mass, ten for permission to lay it in the church, two for the key to open the Pantheon, and ten for the interment. For the funeral of a rich 6hild, the ex- penses are nearly two hundred dollars ; as entertainments, feasts, and carousals must be given. At the celebration of marriage, there is much parade and ceremony. The bride and groom, it is said, are obliged, among other things, to kneel before the altar in the church all night, linked together with a gold chain passed round their waists. The state of society at this place is truly deplo- rable. The justices of the peace are easily bribed, and can at any time be bought for money. During an excursion on shore with several of the offi- cers, I was introduced to some of the foreign merchants, ■ and saw among other articles of trafBc, large quantities of Peruvian bark in store dready for market. We saw here some curious specimens of conchology. Among them was a species of the pholas, found among stones and soil clay. The shell is thin like the paper nautilus, while the ani- mal internally resembles a long clam. There was also a species of the cowrie, similar to that found at Cd- quimbo, and the Venus shell, found atColan, four leagues distant. ^ In company with Dr. Foltz, one of our assistant sur- geons, I visited several persons for whom he was called to prescribe. One of the mdst anxious applicants was a poor Indian, who begged the doctor to go home with him and cure his child, whom he represented as sick. We found no other ailment than a few warts, for which some CAPTAIN BASIL HALL. 317 nitric acid v/m recommended, when the father, by way of paying for the visit, took a clarionet and began to play, his little bird, Nigrito, joining in with his notes. The style of the performance was ridiculous enough, but we kept our countenances and complimented the concert as much as it would bear, the mother and her children mean- while expressing great delight at the harmony. We made several other visits to persons of different classes, and w^e pleased with the general civility of the people. Captain Basil Hall, in speaking of the burning of the town of Payta, by Lord Anson in 1741, thus remarks : *' It furnishes a curious instance of the effect of manners on the opinions of mankind, to observe, that the kindness with which that sagacious officer invariably treated his Spanish prisoners, is at the distance of eighty years, better known and more dwelt upon by the inhabitants, than his capture and destruction of the town." With all my culmu rattan of the inestimable character of Capt. Hall, I cannot consent to suffer an inconsistency so glaring, to pass unnoticed. The passage scarcely needs comment, for it bears marks of improbability upon the very face of it. The town was surprised in the darkness and stillness of the night, while the inhabitants were locked in a profound sleep. They were awakened suddenly by the flames : their houses were pillaged, their churches were rifled, a vast amount of property was seized, and the town nearly consumed. Is it at all probable, that the kindness of the perpetrator in one single act, if even that be allowed him, should be more dwelt upon than the capture of th^ town. 1 318 CRUMK OF THE POTOMAC. •ad the scenes of violence and bloodshed with which it wai associated T The paragraph shows the feelings of a bigoted Englishman, in an attempt to saddle upon the world an exalted idea of British prowess. Before sunset we were sent for on board, when with a fine breeze and a beautiful moonlight evening we set sail in a northwesterly direction for the Galapagos islands. CHAPTER XXVI. Oalapagos islands— Essex bay-^Landing at Black Beach — Colony—' Gfovernor Villamil— Visit to an English resident — Ezcarsion to Saddle point— Terrapins — Turtle doves— Departure for Guayaquil — Breakers— Island of Puna— -Catholic ceremonies — Guayaquu — Buildings— Inhabitants— Pantheon— Visit to the ladies — General Flores — Rocafuerte. On the twenty-ninth of August, we passed Chatham island, one of the Galapagos, and in the evening c^pie abreast of another, called Hood's. The Galapagos are drea- ry, and scattered along the equator at the distance of two hundred leagues from the main land, almost uninhabited. They were formerly but little known aiid but seldom n^* ited ; but one of them, Charles island, has been recently settled by a small colony of convicts from Guayaquil, a^ fording a place of rendezvous for whale sihips. On ap* preaching this island, we anchored on the thirty-first of August, in Essex bay,* which, with propriety might be called an open roadstead, seven miles from the colony. A mountain lay before us, bearing a few scattered trees^ •So named by Com. Porter, who touched here in 1814. Com. Downes was then his first lieutenant. S90 CRUISE OF mm potomac. which OB a nearer obeerration we found to be the prickly pear. This tree, which in our country is only of the size of a greenhouse plant, is here ten feet in height and ten or twelve inches in diameter, with the leaves proportionably large, and fruit not remarkably nutritious, of the size of a hen's egg. The tree is of the softest texture, and might be easily felled with a knife. It furnishes food for hogs and goats. We landed from one of the ship's boats, after a row of seven miles from our vessel, at a place called Black beach. Our path led us up a gradual ascent to- wards the summit of a mountain, affording us no trace of human inhabitants, except a few huts at the distance of about three miles from the beach. The inhabitants here, desirous of establishing public worship, had built a church of rude construction. Wine bad been furnished for the communion service, but the Padre drank it up and absconded. Passing three huts, our. path soon turned to the right, suddenly disclosing to view a beautiful valley about five miles in length on the other side of the moun- tain, at a considerable elevation above the ocean.. Here we saw a cleared spot of grx)und, with a r6w of small habi- tations and cultivated gardens. This is the residence of the colony to which we have alluded, consisting of about one hundred and fifty persons of both sexes, and various colors, chiefly convicts, banished from the neighboring coast of the Eucador, principally from Guayaquil. Villamil, a gentleman from the department of the Eu- cador, is constituted the governor and chief proprietor. In 1831 he obtained permission from Gen. Flores, to form ENGLISH RESIDENT. 321 tiiem into a colony, for the purpose of providing supplies for whale ships passing along that part of the coast. The beautiful spot he has chosen for a village, has a rich vol^ canic.soilj and a climate highly favorable to the produc- ^n of every species of fruits and vegetables. Several erops may be raised annually from the same field, with little ' cultivation. There is generally a thick mist or rain la the valley in the morning, which is highly favorable to vegetation. We reached the place about noon, passing little patches of bananas, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, and yuca^ or ceasada,* The habitations of the colonists are constructed somewhat after the manner of those we saw at the Sandwich islands, being formed of poles and bush- es. The governor's house commands a fine view of the ocean, and he gave us a pleasing statement of his past success and future prospects. We slept that night at the hoase of an Englishman, who has taken up his residence there. His was the best building on the island. It was composed of a few upright posts, supporting horizontal poles, together with a thatched roof, rising to such a height as to seem the chief part of the building. It contained only three apartments, one of which was my lodging room. The weather during the day had been excessively hot, the night was damp and cold, and our lodgings, in conse- quence, were rather uncomfortable. My bedstead, proba- bly the best on the island, had high posts and curtains, but was located upon a floor of earth. The most remark- * A root highly natritious, having some resemblance in size and ahape to the parsnip. 28 ^ 3S)2 OftU»E OF THE POTOMAC. tbie object I saw at the colony, was a spring of fine water iMuing from an elevated rock. The water is distilled through it, as through a filtering stone, falling into a res- ervoir, discharging itself bj a small but lively stream. On the left hand above the spring is a channel worn in the rocks, about twelve inches wide, very smooth and uni- form, extending some distance up the hill, Uie origin of which it seems difficult to conjecture. The colonists say it has been worn by the terrapins or land tortoises, which in some parts of the island are still very numerous. They visited the spring in great numbers, and by rubbing their shells against the rock for centuries, are supposed to have given it its present appearance. We were in want of a supply of fresh (bod, and having learned that there was a spot where terrapin might be ob- tained in great numbers, Commodore Downes determined that a little time should be devoted to the object. The expedition afibrded a good deal of amusement. About one hundred of the crew, under charge of Lieut. Hoff, mid- shipmen Lewis, Hoban, and Adams, started fi*om the ship in the whale boat, launch, and cutters, for a row of four^ teen miles, to Saddle Point. The first and second cutters, with the launch, were anchored near the . shore. The whale boat was fastened to one of them, and connected with a strong rope to the iron-bound precipitous bluff, which rises several hundred feet fi'om the sea. The rocks were of volcanic origin, blacky ragged, and misshapen. The men were all landed one by one, while the waves were continually swelling and subsiding, so that it required caa- J EXCI7BBION FOR TERRAPINS. 923 Ikm, aeti?ity» and strength, to secure one from losing his hold, or at least from getting plunged into the water. The steepness of the bluff rendered our footing preca* rious; while the high and almost perpendicular rocks were yet to be surmounted. These difficulties overcome, we attained the summit, where a plesusanter scene presented itself. On every side we saw the ocean surrounding us^ with the island extending some ten or twelve miles dis* tant, presenting a considerable variety of surface. The ground exhibited few signs of vegetation, except here and there a cluster of small trees and bushes, while the bare Tolcanic stones tinkled beneath our feet like metallic sub- stances.* Not a human dwelling was to be seen. Our men divided into small parties, and set off in different di- rections. I started with one of the parties on a walk of five miles from the landing. The surface was a little un- dulated, and covered with. grass and occasional clumps of bushes. No traces of human existence had met our eye, when the attention of my companion was suddenly arrested by a sound like that of a deep suppressed sigh, as from some fellow being in distresi^ which was not a little startling in so desert a place. He had almost trodden upon a terrapin, which, according to the custom of that slug- gish race, waa lying quietly in the shade during the heat of thie day. Its cdor had great resemblance to the stones of the island. I had hardly.ceased laughing at my com. panion's momentary symptoms of timidity, when I met with * We saw at another time on the mar£[in of a hill an open cavityi which had every appearance of an extmguished crater. V 384 CRUUB OF THK POTOMAC. a similar surprise : for we had uncoDsciously arrived upon the borders of the terrapin region. I had well nigh set my feet upon one of the crawling tribe. At length we seized our prizes, and placed them upon our backs, which was the easiest way of transporting them. These creatures are perfectly harmless, and weigh from one to three hundred pounds, so that one of ordinary ^ize is a sufficient back* load for a man, especially while performing a walk of five miles. The different parties of seamen came down to the bluff during the day, in odd processions, each with a ter« rapin upon his back, like the pack of a pedlar, staggering under the weight of his burden. About noon we partook of a picnic dinner, consisting of biscuit, wine, d&c. which had been brought from the ship, and turtle soup, which had been prepared by someof the sailors. The flesh of the animal was wholesome and delicious. . One hundred terrapins upon the bluff, of all sorts and sizes, some upon their backs and some in a crawling condi* tion, made a ludicrous appearance; and occasioned no little trouble to the sailors, who sought to keep them within the due bounds of propriety. Finally, each was suspended by a rope and let down the bluff. All were placed within the boats, when we embarked and rowed safely back to the ship with our booty. Similar excursions were made during the two fc^lowing days, till we finally had no less than six hun- dred terrapins on board, which were destined to furnish us with many a rich repast, during the remainder of our cruise. Another party, imder charge of the first lieutenant, the purser, and midshipmau Sinclair, took a boat load of enor* CIALAPAG08 ISLANDS. 926 mous size at Porter's island. The lirer of the terrapin, vrhich is very delicious, and the legs and eggs, are the only parts fit to be eaten. The legs were generally boiled ^r soup, while the livers were broiled. The eggs are nearly globular, and about three inches in diameter; ' By their aid, excellent pies were made for us from the fine pumpkins furnished at the colony. Those^ vegetables were .remarkably prolific beyond every thing else, if we might believe all the- statements we heard. The governor said that twenty thousand had been raised from a single seed. I brought home three of the terrapins, one of which is still alive, feeding upon almost every species of vegetables that can be offered it. The island abounds with turtle doves, so titme as to be easily knocked down with a club. One of the officers killed several hundred in a single day, which were added to our catalogue of eatables. Other birds of the island were equally tame. Two of the mocking bird species came and fed upon the crumbs which I held in my hand. Seals, red crabs, and guanas, exist in abundance. The latter have some resemblance to long-tailed cats in a coat of mail. They possess a remarkably soci^ll disposition, herding together by thousands so dosely as to cover the whole face of the rocks: Among the inhabitants of the Pacific, they form a favorite article of food. Early in the morning of the tenth of September, we weighed anchor and stood out of Essex bay for Guayaquil, distant seven hundred miles. Passing Saddle point, where 28» 326 cEVMi or the potomac. we had taken our terrapins, we soon lost sight of land. About nine o'clock I received a message from the Commodore, (desiring me to read the barial service over the remains of one of the men, who had di^ the night previoos. It excited in mj mind melancholy feelings, to see one after another of our ship's crew leaving the world with all its hopes and joys behind them. In the evening, breakers were reported on the lee bow.. All was agitation. The Commodore ordered the ship to be put about, but the wind was so light that she missed stays. She was soon put on the other tack, when the first lieutenant was sent off to examine into the cause of alarm, fiooa after, to our great relief, he reported a shoal of fish ( The white streak extended nearly half a mile, and was about six feet in width. On the evening of the next day, the vessel glided rapidly through the water, the waves foamed like the rush- ing of a cataract, and the sea around was one luminous mass, presenting a magnificent appearance, while shoals of por- poises were playing about, some of them occasionally dart- ing across the bow of our ship. On the sixteenth of Sep- tember, we anchored off the island of Puna, after having stopped the day previous, to bury the remaitis of another of our crew. There was something sad in the thought of leaving a fellow being in so lonely a spot as was the island where we buried him. Yet I could not but hope that angels would condescend to watch over his sleeping dust. While rounding the point of land just at the en- trance of the harbor, we were refreshed by the fragrance CATHOLIC PK0CE8SI0N. 327 of the shrubs^ and cheered by the music of the grasshop- pers and tree toads/ reminding me of many a scene in my native Tillage. The town of Puna, as seen from the ship, presents a wild and romantic appearance^ The houses, about two hundred in number, are like little huts hoisted upon stilts, bearing them abose ,the reach of snakes and reptiles, which formerly infested the place. It^as here that Pi- zarro, three centuries ago, obtained the Indian Felipe as an interpreter to the Inca Atahualpa, then residing about a league from Caxamarca, on the borders of Peru. During our stay here, I witnessed a Catholic proces- sion, attended by most of the inhabitants of the town, which appeared very ridiculous. Seteral negroes, dress- ed with yellow satin jackets, pantaloons, and white silk stockings, with hideous masks on their faces, headed the procession, calling ihemseUesdiablitos, or devils, of which they might have been tolerable representatives. These were succeeded by a body of well dressed men, said to be motors for the evening. One among them appeared in full military uniform, while another wore a crown ornamented with feathers, with the view of personating Montezuma, the ancient cacique. Th^se actors were succeeded by the image la Merced, the saint of the day, followed by the old Padre under a canopy of satin, attended by a number of females as flambeau bearers. Mass was then performed upon altars which had been erected in different parts of the town, when the firing of capnon and musket- ry, together with the shouts of the populace, closed the ^ CEinSB or THl POTOMAC. ■eene. The erening following was devoted to licentious* Hess and debaachery. On the nineteenth, a party composed of Lieute&ante Wilson, Hoff, and Terrett; Doctors Jackson and Foltz ; Midshipmen Hoban, Hart, Stanley, and Lincoln, prepared to pay a visit to Guayaqail, forty miles distant. Dan StMn^ i^hez Pino, accompanied us, with dispatches for the Oo- lombian goremment We left the ship about fonr o'clock in the morning, in our first cutter, which was rigged up like a schooner for the occasion, and were soon under way. We had a pleasant sail up the river. The scenery is fine, resembling in some respects that of the Connecti- cut, though more richly luxuriant The shrubbery is composed of sugarcane, cocoa, plantains, and the trees extend to the water's edge. The river is about a mile and a half in width and very crooked. About six miles from the city, a magnificent prospect opened to our view. The high hills in the back ground contrasted finely with the low flats along the banks of the river. We arrived at the city about ten o'clock, and were received with the great- est cordiality and kindness by the American residents. The city is built on a beautiful plain, on the westerly side of the river. There is something peculiar in the plan of the bdildings in Guayaquil, and different from any thing I have seen elsewhere. The town is laid out in squares. All the buildings upon a square are constructed upon a uniform plan, and have the appearance of having been erected at one time. The upper stories project so far over the street as completely to shelter the sidewalks. A foot aVAYAWTL. 389 passenger has, therefore, a convenient covered passage before him wherever he goes, with a row of columns on one hand, on which the two upper stories of the houses are supported. These columas as I was informed, are little less' substantial than iron, being ma^e of lignum. vitae, while the houses are all of wood. This general plan of construction is not confined . to any particular square, nor to any single quarter of the city, but is univer- sal. You may therefore walk wherever you please, with almost eqvial convenience, whether round a square, or through any of the streets. Such an arrangement is pe- culiarly adapted to the climate, where the heat is so con- tinually oppressive during the summer, and the rains so tedious during the winter. The inhabitants of Guayaquil seem to have a custom peculiar to themselves ; that of as- signing different stories of their dwellings to the different classes in society. The first floors are occupied by the common people ; the second, by a more elei^ated class, while the " top of the town'' live literally at the top of their houses. The city presents a general aspect of decay. The buildings, including the churches and their clumsy belfries, constructed of wood, appear as if they might have been whitewashed many years ago, and neglected ever since. The brown weatherbeaten surface is every where conspicuous. There are no public buildings of any im« portance in the place. The streets are extremely filthy, and contain multitudes of entirely naked children. The generality of the people, however, are dressed much like the citizens of our own country. Most of the traffic of the CRDIIB or TBI POTOMAC. ekf takes jdacto in the oTening. Large quantities of fifait are brought down the river upon rafts and in canoes, for the supplj of the market ; such as pineapples, melons, oranges, bananas, and plantains. The latter, a species of the banana, are used by the people instead of bread. Within a short dbtance froin the tomi is a shad j wdk, which forms a dividing line between the salt and fresh water. This is similar to the mill dam at Boston, though OB a smaller scale. At the extremity of this dam is the Pantheon, in the shape of a parallelogram, with a chapei of rude appearance in the centre. The niches in the walls resemble" ovens. Near by we saw a breastwork, with half a dozen mounted guns, which had been placed there twelve months previous, in anticipation of an .invasion ^m the Indians. This was the only place where the city could be attacked from the land. The road from this point winds up a high hill, which commands an extensive prospect In one direction was to be seen the city spread out. at our feet ; in another, the river studded with beauti- fully green islands, while distant hills and mountains cov- ered with the richest verdure, gave a charming variety to the landscape. While we were enjoying the prospect, numbers of parrots and, parroquets flew over our heads, filling the air with their screams. We saw here one spe- cimen of the " maderia negro," a tree bearing large yellow bell shaped flowers, while entirely destitute of leaves. Returning to the town by a diflerent road, we visited the bull circus, a temporary building, formed of split bamboo. Here we were sainted by ^ Padre, who said **no uia bueno" LADUB OF OUATikQUIL. 881 [it 18 not good.] I imagined for a moment that he was cen- suring this relic of barbarism, till he gave us to understand that if we wished to see any thing grand, we must go to Quito. The profits of this circus were to be appropriated to the erection of a hospital, in anticipation of the cholera. The same day, about one o'clock, headed by the Commo- dore, we made several calls upon the ladies who had sent U8 their cards on our arrival ; a custom, it seems, which is peculiar to the place. Oae of the houses in particular was spacious, airy and well furnished. The lady of the mansion soon made her appearance, neatly dressed in white, with a beautiful crape shawl hanging loosely over her shoulders, - Her countenance was engaging, her man- ners were graceful, and her conversation easy and agreea- ble. The ladies of Guayaquil have Ipng been celebrated for their beauty. They bear a nearer resemblance to the ladies of the United States, than those of any other part of South America that I visited. Afler a short but inter, esting visit to this city, we put off in our schooner rigged cutter, for the ship, accompanied by Col. Wright, of the Colombian service, an intelligent Irish gentleman, who had placed himself gnder our protection to escape the vengeance of Gen. Flores, the president of Eacudor. The Colonel had been exposing the base conduct of Flores through the govemmetit lepers, and just as we were to sail, an order had been issued for his apprehension. We had a fine s?iil down the river, And anchored abreast of the ship about sunset of the twenty-first. The provbces of Eacudor, Venezuela, and New Gra- 392 CRVMB or the potomac. nida were formerly united under one president, and called the United States of Colombia, but they now constitute separate governments. Santander is the president of Venezuela; Gen. Paez,of New Grenada; and Gen. Floras of Eacudor. Flores is very unpopular, and deservedly so. Hb sole aim is self aggrandizement in the pursuit of wealth and power. He seems perfectly reckless of the public interests in relation to the means and measures he is em- ploying. One of the earliest acts of his administration was to appropriate to himself the best kaciendOf or landed estate in the country, and compel some of the natives to cultivate it as his tenants. Another act was to buy up all the reab then circulating in the country, at a reduction of fifty per cent ; and subsequently circulating them at their foil value. Too many of the. presidents of South America have borne a similar character. Few real patriots are to be found. The Eacudor seems thus far to haVe gain- ed nothing by the revolution. Of five thousand for* eigners who entered the Colombian service, only fifteen individuals remained at the time we were there. Some had fallen in battle, others had been assassinated, and many had left the service. Rocafuerte and others had been engaged in exposing through the medium of a Quito paper, then under the charge of Col. Wright, the corrupt administration of government.* Flores, in consequence, assumed extraordinary powers, and undertook to put a stop to the liberty of the press. Yet Rocafuerte, as a member of congress, was placed beyond the reach of his influence. It is a subject for rejoicing that there are some BOCAFVE&TE. 333 true patriots in the country, and among them we know of no one whose character is more justly to be admired than that of Rocafuerte. This is the same gentleman who was formerly Mexican envoy to London, and passed sev- eral years in that city. He is of the liberal party, and an enlightened advocate of civil and religious freedom. He is an ornament to his 'country, and highly respected for his talents and gentlemanly deportment. Though in the minority, he has written and spoken with the utmost firm- ness against the abuses of power, and conducted himself in such a manner as reflects great honor upon himself and country. There could not remain a question but that Gen. Flores was a tyrant at heart, aspiring for regal titles and honors ; and Rocafuerte did not hesitate to tell him so. He animadverted upon the members of Congress as a body, denouncing them as the dupes and servile subjects of a tyrant ; at the same time declaring to them that they were actuated by no noble or patriotic principles, but were the veriest slavesof avarice and despotism. He compared Flores to Robespierre, and the members of Congress to his accomplices. The barbarous manner in which things were then conducted, might have sufficiently warranted him in drawing such a comparison. Flores, in retaliation^ placed himself above the laws of his country, deprived Rocafuerte of his seat in Congress, and threfitened that his head should be severed from his body, placed upon a spear, and borne through the streets of duito. Rocafuerte's . speech in reply, was distinguished for its eloquence of style and energy of diction, and was every way worthy of its 29 334 cmmti or tbb potomac. aatbor. He declared that he had ao undoabted right uae the liberty of speech, and would employ it, that he had been governed solely by pure and patriotic motiFcs, and that he was prepared even to die in hii country's cause. Other gentlemen were associated with Rocafuerte in expos- ing the abuses of government Some of them in conse- quence were declared outlaws, and others were conveyed in chains to Guayaquil CHAPTER XXVII. Seeond ry- habitants^Departure — Arrival <^aake— Q,4)arantine — Last visii to Lima — Assemblage at the Fran- ciscan convant — Departure— Arrival at Valparaiso — Ride to Santiago ^Scehery — Interview with an Irishman — Posada — Pedago^e— City of Santiago—Public promenade— Burial eround — Moyntama — Battle ground of Chacabuco — Inn— -Rope brioge— Quillota. On the iwenty-eighth of September we set sail for a seeond visit to Payta, and about noon were off Muerto, or Dead Man's Island^ and by nightfall were fairly out of the gulf of Guayaquil. We made Cape Blanco on the thir- tieth, and reached our destined port on the first of Octo- ber, where we received intelligence that GamaVra, the President of Peru, had been deposed, and that the convicts on the island of San Lorenzo had effected their escape in a schooner, and were infesting the environs of Callao.' On the fourth, in company with Mr. De Selding, and midshipman Totten, I went on shore and visited a Catho lie celebration, still more remarkable than that we saw at Puna. A procession formed at one of the churches, moved on through the town under the deafening din of bells and roar of cannon. It was headed by a company of merry 336 cRirisB OF the potohac. Andrews, dressed in imitation of baboons and harleqains, practicing all the antic gestures and ridiculous pranks imaginable. Some had their faces pamted black, while others wore huge masks, looking " fierce as ten furies/' A spectator might easily imagine from the appearance of these diablitos, that they were in reality the infernal spirits they personated. Next in order came a band of dancers, fantastically dressed, skipping and leaping about to the music of a rude drum and whistle. This band was fol- lowed by a Franciscan monk, in the gray habit of his order, holding in one hand a cross, and in the other a bre- Tiary, which he would occasionally present to the people for their acceptance, but which the latter as often rejected. A train of Indian women, attired after the style of the an- cient Peruvians, came next in succession, dancing and singing as they passed along. Their heads were encircled with crowns and plumes of various hues, some of thehi making a rich display of gold chains and other ornaments. Then followed a variety of images and pageants borne by Indians, among which were San Francisco, the saint of the day, adorned with richly wrought garments of the' choicest stuffs, St. Peter, arrayed in purple, holding the keys of the kingdom of heaven in his right hand, and a third image, as black as Proserpine, which was held by the people, I know not >why, in high veneration. A couple of priests and friars under a satin canopy, escorted by a company of can- dle bearers, and followed by a number of Indian females and noisy children, completed the procession. The peo- ple knelt before altars which had been erected at the angles of the different streetii during the ringing of bells, the CATHOLIC CEREM0NIB8. 337 firing of cannon, and the performaijoe of street minstrels; the priest meanwhile perfuming the several places with his smoking censer, and muttering a feW syllables in a low and inarticulate manner. After proceeding in this way through the different streets, the diablitos ran towards the Franciscan mqnk and kissed the book. The procession then passed into another church, where other unmeaning ceremonies w.ere performed. Thus, the farce ended. The object of the procession, it seems, was to represent the present state of religion nnd civilization, in contrast with the primitive state of barbarism. The monk with his cross and breviary represented the chaplain to the expedition under Pizarro, requiring ^toAua^a, the then reigning inca, and his subjects, to embrace the Catholic faith, which the latter rejected with contempt ; and the final kissing of the book by the diablitos, showed the subsequent acqui- escence of the natives in receiving the Catholic religion. There is perhaps not a nation in existence, oh whom the curse of conquest has fallen with a more oppressive and unrelenting hand, than upon these unfortunate and degra- ded '* children of the sun." Over this subject there hangs a tale of blood stained injuries, that will remain indelible as long: as history ^hall retain the story of the fortunes of that country. Why should. these deluded fanatics continue to commemorate events the most daring and perfidious in the chronicles of history, which will reflect eternal infamy and disgrac0 upon the perpetrators? The people are taught to believe, that afler such a celebration they will be exempt firom all wind? and storms, and that no calamity 29* 338 CRUI8B or thk povouac. will befall them. Drunkenness, revelrj, and debancherji asoallj wind up the scene. In ope of the chapels at Payta, is the image of the Virgin Mary with a scratch across her throat, and a bay- onet wound in her chin, said to have been inflicted by the soldiers in the expedition under Lord Anson, when be sacked and burned the town. On the day after the above celebration, a feast was held commemorative of that event The image bled from the wound on this occasion, when several of the people took small pieces of cotton, and dip- ping them in the blood, linked them together in the form of beads, and tied them to their necks. The people are told that the Virgin bleeds once a year from this wound. I had no opportunity to examine the head of the image, to see whether it was hollow. > On the tenth of October we made sail from Payta, in a southerly direction, for San Jose, the port of Lambay- eque, passing on the twelfth the island of Lobos de Tierra, which was almost literally surrounded by seals, and from which circumstance it derives its name. It has a rough and ragged appearance, of a light clay color. On the fol- lowing day we anchored at San Jose, about five, p. m. in an open roadstead, and on a miserable anchorage ground. All that we could see of the town from the ship, was a sin- gle white storehouse, and a few fishermen's huts. The country is barren and desolate. The day following, I left the. ship in company with Lieut. Ingersoll, and midshipmen Hoban and Adams, for the shore. We took passage on a baba, a mere raft of logs CITT OF LABffBArcaUE. 339 with two lee-boardflr, a Bteering oar, and a mast stuck in the middle, as we could not land with the ship's boats, in consequence of the high surf. We found this an amusing method of sailing. We went as far to windward as we could, and then taking out the lee-boards, let the craft drive directly before the wind on the beach, ** side on." Having safely landed, we called at the house of an Ame« rican resident, who has been an inhabitant for some years, and has a family of thirteen children. We next set out on horseback for the city of Lambayeque, nine miles in- land. Afjter.some difficulty in tracing our way over the barren tract of land, we arrived at a steep sandy hill, from which we saw the city. Its appearance is by no means prepossessing. The entrance to the streets strongly re- minded me of Callao. The houses seemed but half fin- ished, the streets exceedingly narrow, filthy, and cumbered with fragments of old garments, and heaps of dirt; while the dust was blowing about like ashes. This description, however, will not apply to all the streets. A feUr are well paved and cleanly, with some good houses in their vicin- ity. The church wears the aspect of antiquity, having been built, as we were told, soon after the discovery of the country. We found no fruit in the market, except melons and plantains. The only circus of the place was regu- larly open every Sabbath evening, and conducted by a man from New-Yoi^k ! On riding through one of the principal streets, our at* tention was attracted by the sound of music, when on a nearer i^pproaeh, we saw a multitude assembled to witness S40 CROIfS OF THB P010MAC. t ball fight The baleonies tod windown were filled whli women and children, eagerly gazing at the scene. We were anxious to find some place of rest for the short time we intended to remain in the city, but all the inhabitukts were so beside themselves on account of the bull fight, that for a long time we could gain no intelligence of an inn ; and when we succeeded in getting a hearing, we learned to our mortification, that there was no such estab- lishment in the whole city. We were now in quite t quandary, and were compelled to linger longer than we wished, and listen to some of the details of the occasion, 80 joyous, it would seem, ^o every body but ourseWes. This public entertainment, strange as it may seem to many of my readers, was designed to commemorate a priest's receiving orders. The entertainment was got up at his own expense, notwithstanding he had given a public din* ner the day before, which was the Sabbath. The ques- tion where we should find lodgings was continually recur- ring, and at length we received an intimation that we were to be provided for. We were finally invited to take dinner at a place where one had been prepared for us at the expense of a lady of the city ; and were shown into a sort of tavern, where things appeared in grotesque confo- ■ion. A rude table was spread with a few dishes, where we took our seats; while in one comer we saw two yoang won^en sitting on calabashes, and eating from a plate which stood on a heap of corn. There was an additional cause of excitement operating npon the minds of the people of Lambayeque that day, ALARM IN THE NIGHT. 341 of which we were at first not aware. Prisoners had bro- ken from the city jail From what we h^ard, we thought it possible there might be desperate fellows among them. In the evening we called upon the lady who had furnished us the dinner ; where we witnessed the performance of a fandangOy in connection with the rude minstrelsy of half a dozen guitars. The amusement was evidently got up on our account. I was glad when the hour for repose arri- ved; for the ride we had taken,, and the sul;)sequent scenes of the day and evening, had occasioned us no little weari- ness, and exhaustion of spirits. Two of us took lo^lgings in a miserably dark bedroom, in a different part of the city. Though accustomed to almost every kind of accom- modation, this retreat seemed intolerable. However, hav- ing a strong desire for rest, we were soon locked in slum- ber. How long we thus remained I cannot tell, but in the dead of night, we were suddenly awakened by a noise as of some person endeavoring to yforce his way into our apartment. As the door opened into the yard, the thought immediately occurred that we were somewhat exposed, and' that any ill minded man might easily break in upon U8. Perhaps we had been noticed by some wretch during the day; and ultimately traced to our lodgings, and mark- ed out as objects of attack, under the supposition that we might prove a better prey than common natives. Possibly some of the concealed convicts had conceived a plan for the robbery of two solitary travellers : and in truth, who yrexe more likely to form and execute such a design? 8uch thoughts I should ha^^ soon expelled, bad not my 342 CRU18K or tb« potomac. companion called out in a deaperate manner for his pif- tols. Conjectures thus augmented were not a little start- ling. To whom could we look for aid ? We were destitute of arms, and in total darkness. We made no small stir and bustle about the room, and finally gave a hard thump upon the door, which for a moment silenced our assail- ants, whoever thej might chance to be. Smiling at our fears, we laid ourselves down again, when shortly after- wards the attack commenced with greater violence, like some one sawing the wood near the bottom of the door. Our fears were renewed, and it was some time before either of us found a disposition to approach the spot, and stamp upon the floor. Again the noise ceased for a little time : but it was kept up at intervals during the night, fill- ing us with painful apprehensions, and depriving us of sleep. Why an entrance was not speedily effected, it was impossible to determine. Why should not those who had broken loose from the walls of a sturdy prison, be able in an instant to force the slender door of a bedroom 1 Morn- ing at length arrived, without the tragedy of shedding our blood in Lambayeque. On opening the door, we found an old dog wagging his tail, and looking wistfully upon us for permission to enter. This incident furnished us with sufficient food for merriment, during the remainder of our cruise. • On the same day we left the city, reached the port, and by the aid of the balsa, were soon on board ship. During our excursion at Lambayeque, we had seen but few persons of pure white blood. ' The city contains CELEBRATION AT GALLAO. 348 «boTe five thoui and inhabitants^ of which the majority are of either pure or mixed Indian blood. I saw numbers of Indian women, ckrrjing their infants upon their backs^ «,fler the manner of our North Americi^n sav^ages. The people seldom attain more than fifty years of a^e, though they often exhibit the . infirmities of eighty. Sugar and rice, are the principal products of the country. Among the fruits, are delicious chirimoyas. Goods to the value of a million of dollars are annually smuggled into this part. Early on the morning of the sixteenth of October, we weighed anchor and set sail the last time- for Callao, and arrived there on the twenty-seventh, after spending all night in beating into the har1;)or. . Here we found the sloop of war Fairfield, and exchanged salutes. . On the follow- ing day, I landed at Gallao with Dr. Pawling and mid- shipman May. Preparations w^re making for the celebra- tion of the earthquake, which occurred here in 1746. The streets were neatly sw^pt, and beautiful flowers and shrubbery were placed before the houses. People of both s^xes were sauntering about in their best attire. Some gallopping through the streets,, were good naturedly attempting to unhorse each other. Among them were negroes and negresses, and even ladies gaily dressed, riding astride like men, with massive silver spurs and Ma- nilla hats, m^aging their steeds with great adroitness. Fifteen guns were fired from the castle. A procession was formed, headed by. a motley group of negroes and negresses. The latter were followed by the " host/' 344 CRUISE or the potomac. borne by a mulatto boy, and attended by two candle beat- ers. Next came a black priest, followed by persons bear- ing the image of Senora del Carmen, and next, a sort of palanquin, containing an antiquated ill looking image sitting in the centre, intended to represent the Saviour, surrounded by a great variety of flowers and sprigs of myr* tie. Priests dressed in rusty cloaks, and four cornered hats, with the band of music from the castle, in rich uni- form, playing a dirge, accompanied by a multitude of peo- ple of different classes, brought up the rear. Afler pass- ing through several streets, the procession halted near the custom house, when the people uncovered their heads, while one of the priests delivered an address, which was in substance this : that the earthquake took place in con- sequence of the wickedness of the times ; that the people now were corrupt, that many foreign customs had been introduced among them, that they should be pious, that they should give alms to the church, and be charitable to the poor ; that there was a final judgment day, and that if they did not support the church, the place might again be desolated by an earthquake. The object of the cele- bration was to collect money for the church, but the num- ber of contributors was few. On the fourth of November, we were put in quaran- tine by the government, in consequence of having boarded the Crusader, a Mexican brig, sixty days from California. It was reported that the cholera was at the latter place; but two days after, an officer came on board, with cha- pean and epaulettes, and a huge red belt, in which was io- MIRACLK AT LIMA. 346 serted a letter, stamped with the imperial seal fbr the Ck>mmodore, stating 'that the restrictions upon the Ameri- can squadron were withdrawn. We had made our last visit to Lima, and were on the point of leaving the city, when the bells suddenly began to ring, with a most clamorous, deafening peal, from the numerous churches, chapels, and convents, in every quar- ter. It struck us that the occasion must be one of impor- tance. We saw some of the priests accompanied by a concourse of people, hurrying to the Franciscan convent as if to engage in some subject of very deep and general interest. One of the priests soon mounted the rostrun^ and began to harangue in relation to a splendid miracle which he averred had just been performed. It appeared that a chalice had been stolen from the church some time previous, of which no traces had been discovered till that day, when a boy standing on the bank of the Rimac, a little out of the city, observed some of the stones rise from the channel in a supernatural manner.' On search being made beneath them, the lost article was found, and it was restored to the altar. The priest who narrated this story, ascribed the recovery of the chalice to the miraculous interposition of one of the numerous saints of their calen- dar. He had scarcely closed his address, when the boj was seized by the people in a paroxysm of zeal, placed upon the back of a stout negro, and borne in triumph with acclamations through the crowd. On the twenty-first, we sailed a third and last time fpr Valparaiso. Salutes and cheers were given by the Amef- 30 S46 CRUMB OP THE POTOMAC. ican sqaadron, and answered by us as we left them, bound on our homeward passage. We had a tedious voyage to the distant port, but anchored in the harbor of Valparaiso on the sixteenth of December. While our ship was lying in port, I started on horseback in company with one of our assistant surgeons, Dr. Pawling, for Santiago, the capital of Chili, ninety miles distant in the interior. Our horses were accoutred in the style of the country, and we ourselyes were equipped like full blooded Chilians, with ponehoi, boteUf and alforjas. Passing the posada, which we formerly described, we rode through the gorge of a mountain leading us up a considerable eminence, which commanded an extensive prospect. The stubble which remained from the recent harvest gave a white appearance to the fields, with the exception of a little cluster of quil- lot trees, whose verdant appearance formed a pleasing contrast with the pale aspect of the valley. The quillai tree is remarkable in the vegetable kingdom for the pro- perty of its bark, which is used as a valuable substitute for soap. Crossing the mountain, we descended to the little village of Casa Blanca, and stopped to rest ourselves for the night, at a small inn kept by an Italian. Though wearied with our excursion, we were not a little diverted by the grotesque humor of a fellow traveller, a stranger to us, but whose family was partially known to some of the officers of our ship. On the next morning the sun rose in splendor on the varied and picturesque scenery of the Andes. At the distance of several miles we reached the base of a conspicuous ediience called the Cuesfa ZapaU^ RIDE TO SANTIAGO. 347 or Shoe hill, and gaining the ascent by a zigzag course, Mre were presented with a view more interesting than that ivhich we had witnessed the previous day. A great valley lay behind and l^efore us, divided by the pinnacle on which we stood. As we passed through the valley which w^as lying before us, we observed an increase of fertility and population, yet the dwellings were mere hut^ of the rudest construction, scarcely sufficient to relieve lis from the impression of loneliness and solitude. After a Jong ride we inquired for a posada, but were answered with a shrug of the shoulders, *' quien sabe? yo nose." (who knows ? 1 don't.) This was but the beginning of our trou- bles. We made inquiries of the ignorant populace as to roads, distances, refreshments, and accommodations, with- out gaining the least satisfaction from the answers we received. It was particularly trying whe^n we asked for something to eat, and made liberal offers of payment, to hear their brief and hackneyed denials. ** Have you any chickens?" " Nada" (none at all.) "Can you give us a little bread ?" " Tampoca" (nor that either.) By eleven o'clock our horses had gone so long without food, that we felt more anxious for them than for ourselves. We applied at every house in vain, putting our old questions : " Have you any alfalfe ?" (clover) *'Nada" " Can you give us a little meat for ourselv^es ?" '* Tampoco" About this time we overtook a man trudging along barefooted over the hot sand, with his pantaloons rolled oip, and a pack on his back. He proved to be one of our crew, an Irish- man, who had lately left the Potomac without leate. He -'i*' .?j^'i}-^\-)'-<- 348 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC. was at first startled at the recognition, but soon recovering, gave me the following account of himself: '' I am for your eountrj, sir/' said he, '' I like its principles. I did not desert because I disliked the ship. I went ashore on lib* erty with the other men. The last day I met a man ri- ding alone on horseback, so I jumped on behind him, and he carried me to Casa Blanca ; I staid over my time, and was afraid of a flogging if I returned ; but I did not intend to leave the ship, sir ! After your vessel had sailed, I shipped on board his majesty's ship Dublin. I ate the king's bread only a couple of days. I did not like Lord James, sir, and I ran away. I then went to Santiago and worked at my trade, making ornaments for the President's dragoons. At this business I made a good deal of money, but soon afterwards fell in with one of my old shipmates : we had a spree, sir, I lost all my money, and I am now on my return to make another attempt. I am resolved to reform, sir, and to lay up something this time.'' He told us of aposada, at Curimon, three miles ahead, which we lost no time in reaching. We fed our horses, inquired for beds, and took a siesta to refresh our weary limbs. On awaking, we dined on boiled eggs and beef- steak smothered with onions. About a league beyond Curimon, we reached a place called Bustamente, where we ' took lodgings for the night, but were prevented from sleep by the multitude of fleas which infested the house. There was an original old fellow, a lodger in the posada, who was a soldier transformed into a pedagogue, for the bene, fit of the landlord's children. He showed us some scars ^PANISH PEDAGOGUE. 349 Upon his breast, which must have been occasioned by ghastly wounds, and manifested a strong disposition to converse about battles and scenes of blood. He remarked that when he received his month's pay, he was the hap- piest man in the world, but that when ordered to battle, he was happier than when led to the altar to be married by the priests I had an opportunity of witnessing him in his pedagogical maneuvers, which were perf<^ctly in cha- racter. He had half a dozen children ranged on a bench in the yard, wjth books in their hands, and their eyes rivet- ed upon them, while he was marching backwards and forwards like a mute sentinel at his post. At three o'clock in the morning, we were fairly routed by the fleas, and pursued our journey. Our road, as we were informed, was sometimes infested by robbers, who were in the habit of throwing their lazos or nooses over the necks of travel- lers for the purpose of strangulation ; but we passed on unmolested. About daybreak we heard cries of muleteers on the road, who were driving their burdened animals down the mountain. At its base we saw for the first time, people sleeping in the open air at a little. distance from their dwellings. They had saddles for their pillows, pil%eDd within which the dty if built, the canada presente you with a view of snowy summiti^ directly in front, at each end of the walk. iina, which we had chosen, leads along at the foot of the Andes, almost the whole distance to the coast During the first day, with a peon for our guide, we travel- led over an unvarying level, with the Andes close at hand on the lef\, but without any road or even the sign of a beaten track. We saw but few habitations, and those of a miserable character. Crossing a high mountain through a narrow defile, we passed over the battle ground of C%a- eahucoy in company with a Chilian lieutenant, who enter- tained us by narrating the details of the engagement. In the course of the day we separated from him, which we had reason to regret, as our peon lost his- way, and left us to our own conjectures as to the course we should pursue. At about eight o'clock in the evening, we stopped at a hacienda^ and applied for some food, but the inmates were not at all disposed to accommodate us till we showed them money, when they at length spread us a table with mutton- chops, chickens, and beef, mixed together in the same dish. By the time our meal was ready, the master of the bouse had become quite social and accommodating; to such a degree indeed, that he picked out a chicken bone for me with his fingers, which he assured me was a deli- cious morsel. Several of his children were seated with us at the table. One of them, a young miss of seventeen. RVTURN FROM SANTIAGO. 353 mras even more polite than her father, for when a dessert of pears was brought on, she peeled one for my compan- ion, leaving upon it the delicate prints of her smutty fin- gers, whereupon the old gentleman put the abrupt question, ** Quiere v*d llevarla a su 'pais ?" How would you like to take her to America with you ? They gave us such accom- modations for lodgings as the house affdrded, a benqh and candlestand^ with hides and blankets. The next day our course was through a beautiful country, along the bor- ders of the river Acancagua. The soil, like that of a rich garden mould, is partially irrigated in dry seasons with water from the river. It produces wheat in the greatest abundance. We saw men at work at the threshing floors in the open fields, which reminded us of the primitive times of the patriarchs in a holier land. We had intended to visit San Felipe, a considerable town on the opposite side of the river, but on reaching the bank opposite the city, we found no other bridge than that intended for foot passengers, which was of singular construction. On each bank of, the river is an abutment of stone and brick ; a strong rope of raw hide is stretched across the river, made fast at each end by stakes fixed in the abutments ; from a ring around this rope, a platform is Suspended by three cords, like the scale of a balance, so as to slide fiom one end of the rope to the other. The passenger being seated on the platform, is pulled across the river by the ferrymen, with a cord ei^tending from the ring to either bank. Our* guide refused to swim the horses across, under the appre- SM CmUIBK OP TRB POTOMAC. hension that thej woald take cold and die. We reasoned and remonstrated, but the peon was inexorable ; so we saw nothing of the town, exeept the distant view of a neat church, and a small alameda or public walk. We had not yet breakfasted, and observing an old woman at a itand near the bridge, who appeared to have something for sale, inquired for meat, vegetables, dtc, but obtained the answers we had heard so oAen before. It was noon before we reached an inn, nor could we obtain any thing to eat, till our hostess learned from the peon that we were full of silver and gold. We swallow- ed our chicken pie, egg soup, and dessert of fruit, and took our siesta under a fig tree in the open air. Resuming our journey, we arrived at night at Quilloiay a rich inland town of about twenty thousand inhabitants, where we found excellent accommodations at a fonda, though our hostess was a woman of Af^A color. The place is in the centre of a fertile valley, surrounded by lofty hills. We saw some objects of special attraction, but after tarrying a single day in the place, we passed on with few incidents till we reached our ship in the harbor of Valparaiso. The coun- try we had visited was not devoid of interest, but the whole aspect was that of primitive simplicity. The gen- erality of the people are tenants and very poor, while the rich pass their lives in luxurious indolence in the cities and principal towns. We saw several schools in operation upon the Lancasterian system, which gave promise of future improvement. The progress of education is on the TOBACCO SMUGGLING. 355' whole increasing throughout the Chilian provinces. The country is but beginning to recover from the three centu- ries of Spanish vassalage, under which it has labored. Before our final embarkation, we spent nearly eight long weeks in port, which were almost entirely destitute of incident On one occasion I had an opportunity of witnessing a new method of smuggling in the contraband article of tobacco. One of the sailors wishing to " raise the wind/' wound quantities of the leaves round his legs beneath his pantaloons, in the form of bandages ; and, wishing to in- crease the quantity, borrowed the legs of a shipmate for a similar purpose. In this way, the tobacco was taken ashore un perceived, and exchanged for various commodi- ties, and among the rest for rum. Other expedients were often resorted to for similar purposes. Time would fail me to enumerate more than a specimen or two. Several of the sailor^ one day carried some small casks on shore, with the intention of filling them with water for their own use. Just before embarking for the ship, they stepped to a pulperia, or ** grog shop," near by, with their casks, when putting a large bladder in each, and drawing its neck through the bung hole, they filled the bladders with rum, tied them, and let them fall into the casks, which they filled with water, with the expectation of draw- ing it off as soon as they should get on board, and safely securing their booty. This scheme did not escape the rigilance of the ship's corporal, who detected it, and re- ported the matter to the proper authorities. I have often 35D CRVIflB OP THE POTOMAC. seen the sailors bring liqaor off in bladders concealed in their bosoms, and in skins tied round their bodies. Intoxication in port is often attended with singular Incidents. One of the crew, while intoxicated, was walking on a steep hill in the western part of the town, when he lost his balance, and rolled rapidly down the declivity. He would probably have been killed, had he not had the good fortune to hit upon the roof of a house, which, yielding to his powerful momentum, let him down into a room where the family were at breakfast. After spending fifteen months on the western coast of South America, we were not a little gratified to have the time draw near, when we were to embark for our native country. CHAPTER XXVIII. ]>eparture from Valparaiso— Scenes at sea — Cape Horn — Ice islendfl — Arrival at Rio de Janeiro— Salutes — Botanical garden^>Catholic ceremonies — Corcova do— Visit to the Emperor — Departare from Rio — Arrival in the United States— fioston narbor. On the ninth of February, 1834, I listened with feel- ings of the most ecstatic delight to the cheerful tune played at weighing anchor. The great question had been of late, *' when are we to sail ?" Though the ninth was the daj that had ultimately been fixed upon, I could hardly beliere that we should go, till the anchor was up, and our sails were spread to the breeze. i\fler all, I felt some regret at parting with pleasant acquaintances in port, many of whom I shall continue to remember through life, with sentiments of gratitude and esteem. Salutes having been exchanged, our ship was soon under way, and the shores rapidly receded from our view. Nothing of special impor- tance occurred during the first three weeks. We had a heavy sea to da$h through, when on the morning of March fiAh, we made the islands of Diego Ramirez, situated in 31 368 CRUI8B OF THE POTOMAC. latitude fifty-Bix degrees and tbirty-two minutes south, longitude sixty-eight degrees and forty-five minutes west, three in number, of an oblong shape, presenting a barren and desolate appearance. During the day, cape pigeons and albatrosses were flying about the ship in great num- bers. One of the latter was caught by a sailor with a hook. It was a majestic looking bird, with a large beak, and wings extending from ten to thirteen feet, and might probably have weighed from twenty to thirty pounds. Its color was white, variegated with streaks of black and gray. Albatrosses are extremely voracious, and devour great quantities of fish. The next morning a light was reported one point on the weather bow, which was supposed to proceed from a ship. A lantern was hoisted in the main rigging, but the light soon afler disappeared. The night was rather dark, and the sky overcast with clouds, but on a sudden the clouds parted, and discovered to our astonished vision that the lantern had been placed in our rigging to speak the moon, as if on her way from Symzonia! The next day we gave our adios to the Pacific, and doubled Cape Horn. We went nearly round with studding sails set, and without encountering any severe gale. The weather was chilly, and the thermometer stood at thirty-eight degrees. We passed Staten land about five o'clock, p. m., in latitude fifiy-four degrees and forty-eight minutes south, longitude sixty-three degrees and forty-two minutes west. This island is covered with sharp pointed mountains, two thou- sand feet high, studded with trees to their summits. At ICS ISLANDS. 359 evening we were favored with a suhliine prospect. The sea was agitated by waves ** curling and whitening over all the waste';" the rays of the sun, though partially ob- scured by an intervening mist, were beautifully reflected by the waters ; and when this glorious orb sunk to rest in the bosom of the ocean, it left behind it a golden path, which one might easily imagine would lead to the bright *' Isles of the Blessed." Between the latitudes of forty-seven and forty-four degrees south, and longitudes of fifty-four and fifty degrees west, an island was reported about nine miles distant on the weather bow. This intelligence somewhat surprised me, as there were no islands laid down on the chart in these latitudes, though I thought we might possibly be near one of those said to be discovered by Capt. Morrill ! A nearer approach discovered to us that it was an island of ice. At first it appeared to be of a dark color, but as we passed along, it assumed a beautiful blue, and finally appeared white as the falling snow. It seemed a huge mass resting on an immoveable basis, while the waves foam- ed and dashed against it, as if it were a rock in mid oceani It was judged to be two hundred feet above the surface of the sea. Fortunately for us it was discovered by daylight, for had our ship struck against it the evening previous, ■ailing at the rate we did, we must inevitably have been wrecked. In the course of the day, we saw several ice- bergs, varying much in their appearance, some of them resembling houses, castles, and churches with lofty stee. pies. We passed one towards evening, which presented CRUISE or THX POTOMAC. • splendid appearance, while the rajs of the sun weit raflected from its glassj surface. It is supposed that icebergs are formed on declirttiei near the sea, by the congelation of fresh water which pours down from the hills ; and that thej are raised by the snows which fail, melt, and freeze upon their summits from year to year, till they are nearly as high as the moun- tains by which they are surrounded. In this situation they are gradually undermined by the current and by the waves, till they at length plunge into the ocean, and float along ^into the warmer climates, where they gradually diminish in size till they entirely disappear. They often rise three hundred feet above the ocean, and as it has been proved by experiment that only one ninth is out of water, some of them must penetrate more than two thousand feet below. The more common icebergs are composed of broken fragments of ocean ice, which are driven together by the winds into solid masses, occasioning great perplex- ity to those who "do business on the great waters." Early on the morning of the thirteenth, I was waked from a sound sleep by the noise and confusion on deck, and the hurried orders of the Commodore. Our ship was surrounded by ten of those immense masses of ice, one of which was on our starboard, and another on our larboard bow, though they appeared, in a thick mist, no less than half a mile ahead. We struck one, about ten feet high, which jarred us considerably. The appearance of these icebergs, though we had many fears for our safety while among them, interrupted the monotony to which we fatd HARBOR OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 361 been subject, and furnished us for several days with mat- ter for interesting conversation. About midnight, March twentieth, an equinoctial storm commenced, which caused our ship to roll tremendously all the next day, occasioning much damage to our crockery and glass ware. Our dining table was covered with fragments, well seasoned with mustard, vinegar, pepper, and salt. In the afternoon we spoke a Brazilian schooner, the Pompeo, bound to Rio Grande. Our evenings at this time were delightfully pleasant, and we sailed along with studding sails set.. After a passage of forty-five days from Valparaiso, we entered the harbor of Rio de Janeiro about noon of the twenty-sixth. The day was perfectly clear, and we enjoy- ed highly the fine prospect before us. Several vessels were in the offing, and others were coming out of the har- bor. Passing by the fortress of Santa Cruz, we were hail- ed by the officer, and gave the customary answers. As we approached the city, we exchanged salutes with the United States' ship Peacock. The sloop of war Natchez, Com. Woolsey, was soon after reported entering the harbor, and when she had made her number, we hauled down our broad blue pendant, and hoisted our red, as Com. Wool. sey was the senior bfficer in rank. We exchanged salutes with the Natchez, and afterwards with the fortress in the harbor. The next day I went on shore in company with one of the officers of the ship, and made a pleasant excur- sion to the botanical garden, seven miles from the city. The bay of Bota Fogo, which we passed on our way, looked like Borne enchanted spot. Several English gentlemen 31* 309 cmmss or thb potovac. htve their coantrj residences near its shores, built in good taste, in the cottage style. The botanical garden belongs to the government, and is handsomely laid out and kept in good order. The difTerent shades of soil give it a beau- tiful appearance. The variety of flowers and plants in the garden are very numerous, among which are the cin- namon, allspice, pepf^r, bamboo, and bread fruit trees, and the tea plant. In the centre of the garden was a liouse formed of living trees on an artificial mound of con- siderable height, the tops appearing above like turrets, and the branches interwoven in the sides, while a table was placed in the centre, for the accommodation of parties of pleasure. This was surrounded by terraces of green grass, giving it the appearance of an enchanted castle. Adjoining the garden is a hotel kept by a Frenchman, where we dined. The place is called Tivoli, but it is not much like the Tivoli of classic Italy. The same day we visited the imperial chapel, where we found the young em- peror Pedro II., the princesses, and a body of halbidiers, constituting the imperial guard. The emperor, then about nine years old, wasdressed in a military coat and pantaloons elegantly trimmed with strips of gold lace ; a belt of blue ribbon, and a small sword with a golden scabbard. The princesses. Donna Januaria and Francisca Carolina, were dressed in black, it being the day to commemorate the sufferings of the Saviour. This was Holy Thursday of Holy Week, at which time it is customary for the emperor to wash the feet of thirteen persons, and give garments to the poor. Several ceremonies were performed in the CATHOLIC PROCESSION. 303 oburch. The emperor marched round attended by the regents and the body guard, the priests in the centre under a. silken canopy, carrying the '* host.'' Many people were present, dressed in black. In the evening I visited another church, the floor of which was strewed with green leaves, lighted by a countless number of wax candles^ iwhich gave it a brilliant and magnificent appearance. 17he altar was of massive silver, shining like a sea of glass. The next day I witnessed a splendid Catholic proces- sion. The streets were crowded with people of every description, gentlemen of rank and fashion, negroes in rich livery, &c. The corridors and balconies were filled with ladies, and many fair faces were seen at the windows, though none remarkably beautiful. The church was lighted as on the preceding evening. When the procession moved, the scene was truly imposing. A person bearing a black cross, from which hung a bnad while ribbon, went first. He was followed by the priests, richly habited, bearing lamps and wax candles, and leading a number of little boys, dressed to represent angels. Their wings were made of feathers, their heads filled with flowers, and their shoulders covered with capes of Chros de Naples. They were clad in crimson velvet dresses, made to stand out by means of large hoops, trimmed with flounces of gold lace. They bore in their hands diflerent emblems. One carried nails, another a hammer, a third a chalice, while others had small shoots of sugar cane. One of these little boys preceded the crucifix, holding the bloody spear, while another bore the ** reed with a sponge dipped 964 cRt7m or thb potomac. in Tinegar" upon it The pretended image of the Saviour was borne bj four priests under a silken canopy, the peo- ple making their obeisance as it passed along. This was followed by three persons wholly enveloped in black, to represent the three Marys. Next in order, were the em- peror's band, with their instruments muffled, playing a mournful dirge. These were followed by a body of troops. The procession moved on to the palace, and halted at the entrance. The emperor bowed and knelt, when the whole procession passed on through several streets. The day was cloudy, a circumstance which served to heighten the gloominess of the scene. While we were at Rio, a party of us visited the Corco- Tado, the highest peak of the mountains in that vicinity. Our road led along the great aqueduct, which supplies water for the city, and over verdant hills and dales, pre- senting endless varieties of beautiful scenery. The shaft of the Corcovado overlooks the whole city, with its domes and spires, and the harbor with its islets and multitudes of ships ; while on one side a fertile country spreads out to feast the enchanted imagination, and on the other the majestic ocean rolls in all its magnificence and sublimity. A sublimer spectacle could hardly have been witnessed. At a little distance below the shaft, is the Pavilion, a beautiful place, where the late emperor used to hold bis fetes. Here we refreshed ourselves and returned to the city. The day before our departure, the officers of the American squadron, together with those of all the foreign VISIT TO THE BMPBROB. 96S in potty and the resident ministers, assembled at tto palace in full uniform, to pay their respects to the young emperor. It was a day of much parade. He had arrived tliat morning from San Cristovao, his country palace, in a coach and four, attended by servants in the richest livery. 'Xhe company, admitted into the audience chamber, advanced one by one, made th^ir obeisance to him and the princesses, and receded by a backward step, bowing as they passed out by another door. The streets were brilliantly illuminated in the evening, and a patriotic ad- dress was delivered before a large assembly in a building near the public garden. The people shouted vivas for the emperor and the country. On the ninth of April, we left Rio for the last time, and turned our faces homeward. On the twenty-fourth, we made the island Fernando de Noronha, the first appear- ance of which was like that of a distant pyramid. It forms a place of banishment for the convicts of Brazil. Nothing particularly interesting occurred during the re- mainder of our voyage. We had much rain and occasional head winds, with a severe gale off Bermuda ; but as we neared the shores of New England, the weather became fine, and the breezes favorable. I shall not attempt to describe the mingled sensations of gratitude and delight, which I experienced in once more approaching " my own, my native land," aAer an absence of nearly three years, nor the many fond anticipations of happiness, which crowded into my mind as my eyes rested on the Boston light-house, on the evening of the twenty-second of May. Those only S86 CRUISE or the potomac. wlio hare been exiles from home, and wanderera in strange dimea^ ean truly understand such emotions. About ten o'clock the next morning, we weighed anchor and came ,into the harbor. The scene was truly exciting. The wharves far and near, the shipping even to the topmost cross-trees, and the steeples of the churches in the city were filled with spectators ; while our band on the deck were playing with spirit, ''Hail Columbia^ happy land." We were saluted by Commodore Elliot, after which several gentlemen came off to the ship, extending to us a cordial welcome. My .heart rose in grateful aspirations to the God of the universe, for his kindness and tender mercies towards us, daring the '' perils by sea and perils by land,'* to which we had been subjected in circumnavigating the globe. M4 I I ^ » r ' THE NBW YORK PUBUG UBRARY RBFBRBNCB DBPARTMBNT TUs book is voder no oirowBst«neos to hm Ukmn from tfco Boildiiii 1 1 1 1 1 1 «r 1 1 1 1 1 • 1 f urni 4W 1 JAf; - 7 n