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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY This edition is limited to one thousand copies for sale in the United Kingdom. No. THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER ( IDAMPIER' VOYAGES Coiuifting of k New Voyage Kound the World, Supplement lo the Voyage Round the World, Two Voyiges to Campcachy, a Discourse of Windi, » Voyage to New Holland, uid a Vindicadon, in aniwer to the Oumerical Relation of ""■'"■■" CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER BBTTKb BY JOHN MASEFlhl.lJ IN TWO VOLUMES LONDON , \ N I H 1 . 1 i \ l< 1 ) N 7 CARLTON STREET igo6 c DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Consisting of a New Voyage Round the World, a Supplement to the Voyage Round the World, Two Voyages to Campeachy, a Discourse of Winds, a Voyage to New Holland, and a Vindication, in answer to the Chimerical Relation of William Funnell BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER JOHN MASEFIELD IN TWO VOLUMES LONDON E. GRAM RICHARDS 7 CARLTON STREET 1906 ( UAH ^ ^^"^ At the BillKatnie Pr«» HAXiov ^Ca \ CONTENTS OF VOL. I LIFE OF CAPTAIN DAMPIER , . NOTE ON THE TEXT 14^ AUTHOR'S DEDICATION AND PREFACE ■ 'T , AUTHOR'S TABLE OF CONTENTS . . JJ ■ THE INTRODUCTION TO THE VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD THE VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD APPENDIX TO THE VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD: DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES . ;jo DEDICATION AND PREFACE TO THE SUPPLE- MENT 549 THE CONTENTS OF THE SUPPLEMENT ■, . . SSS THE VOYAGE TO TONQUIN FROM ACHIN IN SUMATRA 557 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER IT is not my intention to write a long life of DuntneTf for my researches have added little to the mform«- tion in Dampicr's own writings, in the " Biographical Sketch " attributed to Admiral Smyth {Uniud Servut Journa!, 1837, Parts II. and III.), and in the article by Professor Laughton {Did. of Nai. Biog., iv.). At the same time, a brief record of the main incidents in hia life may be of service to the reader. William Dampier was the son of a tenant-farmer at East Cokcr, near Yeovil, in Somersetshire, He was baptized on the 8th of June 1652. His father died in 1662 ; and his mother, who, according to Professor Laughton, "had kept on the farm," died in 1668. His parents, it seems, had designed him for a trade, and had placed him in the Latin school (presumably at Yeovil). On his mother's death, his guardians gave his education a more material bent, by causing him to be instructed in arithmetic and writing. In 1669, at his own request, he was apprenticed to a Weymouth master-mariner, with whom he sailed to France and to Newfoundland. One gathers that his dislike of " the rigours of that cold climate *' caused him to obtain the cancellation of his indentures. Early in 1671, he sailed (as a foremast hand) to Bantam, aboard an Elast Indiaman. He returned to England just before the breaking out of the second Dutch War in March 1672. About a year later he entered aboard H.M.S. Royal Prince, the flagship of Sir Edward Spragge. He took part in the battles of May 28th and June 4th; H LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER but fell ill, and had to go ashore, with other sick men, a little later in the summer. After a few months ashore, a Colonel Helyar, or Hellier, the lord of the manor of East Coker, offered to send him to Jamaica, to assist in the management of a plantation. The accounts of his life in Jamaica, and of his adventures in Campeachy directly afterwards, may be read in the second volume, in the section headed " Voyages to the Bay of Campeachy." During his brief visit to England in 1678, he seems to have married a woman out of the household of the Duchess of Grafton, " leaving her at Arlington House " when he returned to Jamaica early in 1679. Mrs. Dampier's Christian name was Judith. From the end of 1679 to May 1688, Dam pier was with the buccaneers, save for an interval of several months, which he spent in Virginia. His buccaneer career may be divided into three parts. 1. From Christmas 1679 to May 168 1, during which time he helped to take Porto Bello, and accompanied Sharp, Sawkins, and Coxon on their raid into the South Sea. In this cruise he seems to have held no position of authority ; but it is probable that he acquired several hundred dollars as his share of the plunder taken. 2. From May 168 1 to July 1682, during which he cruised to and fro in the West Indies, after his return overland from the South Seas, as described in his first volume. In July 1682 he landed in Virginia, where he remained for thirteen months. 3. From August 23, 1683, to May 16, 1688. This third and most important period is chronicled in his first volume. It covers the period passed with Davis and Cook in the Revenge and Batchelo?s Delight^ and the rather longer period (with Swan) in the Cygnet. He left the Cygnet at the Nicobar Islands, and, after a long illness, made one or two trading voyages in East Indian waters, in one of which he went to Tonquin. He then obtained 2 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER the post of master-gunner at Bcncoulen in Sumatrm, under a ruffianly governor named Sowden. He escaped from this post by stealth (2nd January 1691) and landed in England in September of that year, with nothing to show for twelve years' work but a tattooed East Indian prince. He seems to have exhibited this prince for a livelihood ; but was soon forced to sell him. For the next six years we have no trace of Dampicr's movements, save that he was at anchor at the Groyne (Corunna) in July 1694. He was almost certainly aboard a merchant ship at this time, for the depo«itions at his court-martial (in 1702) make it clear that in 1698-9 he was ignorant of naval customs. In the spring of 1697 he published his first volume, which he dedicated to Charles Montague, the President of the Royal Society. The book proved to be a great success, and ran through three or four editions in a few months One would conclude that Charles Montague acknow- ledged the compliment of the dedication by procuring for Dampier a modest position in the Custums House, for the name appears upon the Establishment of the Customs in the Ibt fw Midsummer, 1 697. The entry runs : " Will" Dampiere. Extraord". To be sunck next vacancy." The entry is at the foot of the list of Land-carriage men, who received each £i, 153. a quarter. The "vacancy" oc- curred August 28, 1697. Dampier was in or near London in June 1697, for, on the 30th of that month, he was ordered to appear before the Council of Trade and Planu- tions to be " examined as to the design of the Scotch East India Company to make a settlement on the Isthmus of Darien," under the leadership of William Paterson. He attended (in company with Lionel Wafer) on the 2nd July, "and gave an account of the Isthmus of Darien and the country between it and Porto Bello," which he was " desired to draw up in writing." A year later, when he was pre- paring for his voyage in the Roebuck, he was again called 3 1 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER before the Council to declare whether he knew of any proposals, or bribes, offered to Wafer by the Scotch East India Company. He declared that he knew nothing, and added that he did not think Wafer capable " of doing the Scotch East India Company any great service." On September 22nd he attended the Council to advise them about the fitting out of a squadron against the pirates " to the east of the Cape of Good Hope." On the 26th he was asked **how long a ship might be, running from England to Madagascar at this time of year ? " In answer to this question and to others of the same nature, he writes : — ''Sept. 27, 1698. " ... to the best of my judgment it might be done in three months and a half. (2) How long a ship might be in passing from Madagascar to the Red Sea ? I could not answer this without consulting my papers, and I now inform you that since, according to the best of my information, on the coast of Madagascar the winds are at NE. and NNE. from the end of January to the end of May (which is right against them) the voyage could not be performed in less than two months. (3) How long a ship might be in passing from the Red Sea to Cape Comorin? This depends upon the setting in of the western monsoon. In the Red Sea this falls out in May, when you may pass in a month, but you cannot bridge that way earlier. Thus if a ship leave England in November she may reach Madagascar by the middle of February and the Red Sea about the middle of April. She must then wait about a month for the monsoon, and about the middle of June she will reach Cape Comorin, a week or two sooner or later according to the setting in of the monsoon. Will Dampier." During 1697, or the early part of 1698, Montague introduced Dampier to the notice of the Earl of Orford, 4 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER then First Lord of the Admiralty. The Earl requested Darapier to draw up a proposal for a voyage of cxplors- tion ; On which Dampicr suggested the tailing to explore the coasts of Australia, as a country likely lo contain gold. His " Proposals for his Proceeding on his In- tended Voyage " will be found in the introduction to hU " Voyage to New Holland," at the end of the second volume. In March, 1698, he was appointed to com- mand a ship called The Jelhf Prize; but on representing that she would be too small for such an undertaking, he was appointed to the Rotiruck of twelve guns, in which he sailed on January 14, [699. For his account of the voyage, see Vol. II. While the Roebuck was fitting for the voyage, Dampier dined with Samuel Pepys. Among the company was John Evelyn, the diarist, who thought Dampier " a more modest man than one would imagine by the rela- tion of the crew he had assorted with." The conversation turned upon Winds; and Dampier, says Evelyn, "assured us, that the maps hitherto extant were all false as to the Pacific Sea, which he makes on the South of the Line, that on the North and running by the coast of Peru being extremely tempestuous." The Roebuck " foundered through perfect age at the Island of Ascension," on her homeward passage. Dampicr's voy^e effected little, nor did it add anything to hb reputation. On his return to England he was tried by court-martial (8th June, 1702) for cruelty to his lieutenant The Court found him "guilty of very hard and cruel usage," and sentenced him to be " fined all his pay to the chest at Chatham." It also found that he was not a fit person to command a King's ship. Shortly after his trial, he obtained the command of the St. George privateer, a 26-gun ship, fitted out by a company of merchants, of whom Sir Edward Southwell 5 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER seems to have been a principal. The 5/. George sailed from Kinsale on September ii, 1703, in company with the Cinque Ports galley, Captain Pickering com- mander. Our knowledge of this voyage is derived from the narrative of William Funnell, who describes himself as mate of the St. George. FunnelFs book was published in 1707, some time before Dam pier had returned to England. It is a tedious work, containing little original matter of any interest. It is interesting chiefly for its sneering comments on Dampier*s statements and conduct. It caused Dampier to write the ill-written and incoherent "Vindication" here reprinted. As an Appendix to the " Vindication " I have printed the charges brought against Dampier first by Funnell, and, later, by John Welbe, midshipman of the St. George^ who answered the "Vindi- cation" in a pamphlet as angry and as ill-penned. To be brief, the two ships sailed from Kinsale bound for the South Seas. They touched at Porto Praya, St. Anns, and Isla Grande, where Captain Pickering, of the Cinque PortSy died. His place was taken by his lieutenant, Thomas Stradling. After leaving the Isla Grande, they beat round the Horn, and anchored to refit at Juan Fernandez. Here the disaffection of the crews, which had been gradually rising, broke out into open mutiny. Some of Stradling*s men rebelled and went ashore, nor would they come aboard again until Dampier interposed and coaxed them back to good behaviour. Soon after this, a large French cruiser was sighted. The men got aboard, and gave chase, and soon saw that she was not a Spaniard, but from Europe. However Dampier's men were eager for the engagement, ^^ right or wrong ;*^ and Dampier was unable to restrain them. The fight began at close range, and continued for seven hours (according to Funnell), with the result that Dampier lost nine men killed and one wounded, and the French ship won clear and escaped. Seeing that they could 6 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER do nothing, the two English ships returned towards Juan Fernandez, where they had left their spare sails, boats, anchors, cables, and other stores, together with six men of the Cinque Poru crew, "in the hurry of slipping to chase." As they came towards the island, they sighted two large French ships, which appeared to be too strong for them. A few shots were exchanged, without effect, between these vessels and the Cinque Parts. Dampicr thought it best to avoid an action with them at all costs; so, leaving his stores to fall into the hands of the enemy, he made sail for the Peruvian coast, where he picked up two prizes. On the 28th April, J 704, he tried to surprise the mining town of Santa Maria; but the attempt was not successful, owing to the failure of one of the men to refrain from firing at a canoa. The shot gave the alarm. When the boats made their attempt, they rowed into a Spanish ambuscade, which killed one and wounded several of their hands. The boats' crews landed, and dispersed the ambuscade, but thought it useless to go farther, seeing that the Spaniards were alarmed. On their return to the ships, they took a great Spanish provision ship and a small bark. "This Bark Captain Stradling kept for his own use." While they lay at anchor at Taboga, in Panama Road, Captain Stradling is said to have quarrelled with Dampicr, who sailed from Taboga without him. Shortly afterwards (22nd July, 1704) the St, George fell in with a Spanish 32-gun ship, which had been fitted out to cruise for her. In manoeuvring for the weather-gage the St. George's fore- topmast "came by the Board," so that Dampier was forced to put away in order to clear the wreck. The Spaniards gave chase "with all the Sail they could," and a battle began at long range. It lasted till it grew "duskish," when Dampier shifted his foretopmast, and sponged and loaded ready for the morning. In the morning the Spanish ship was out of sight After this they went to the Gulf of Nicoya to careen. 7 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER Here they discovered that the bottom of the 5/. George " was in many places eaten like a Honey-comb ; insomuch that the firm Plank was no thicker than an old Sixpence ; Nay, in some places in the Hold, we could thrust our Thumbs quite through with ease.*' This perilously firm Plank they tinkered up with nails and oakum. On September 2, 1704, Dampier fell out with Clippcrton, his mate. Clipper- ton was an unruly man, but a bold ssulor; and, being fearful of sailing in a ship so crazy as the St. George^ and eager to strike a stroke for himself, he got together twenty- one hands, seized one of the prize barks, and ran away with her. George Shelvocke, who had afterwards some experi- ence of Ciipperton, alleges that he took with him Dampicr's commission ; but this is disproved by Dampier*s own words. He speaks of having the Qjieens Orders after Ciipperton had sailed. Three weeks after Clippcrton's defection, the 5/. George^ with the second prize bark, sailed out to attack the Manilla galleon. Dampier was now in command of sixty-four men and boys, most of them mutinous, and some of them drunken. On the 6th December, 1704, they sighted and attacked the galleon, but were beaten off. They seem to have lost no one, but the 5/. George received very serious injury. The failure gave occasion for a new defection. Funnell, with thirty-four others, resolved to go for India in the prize bark; which resolution they put in practice on the 1st February, 1705. After several traverses, they reached the Dutch East Indian Islands, from which Funnell and seventeen others came to England, where they arrived in August, 1706. Dampier's subsequent adventures, with the twenty-nine (or twenty-seven) men left to him, are obscure; but it appears that he plundered the town of Puna, abandoned the old St, George^ and sailed for the East Indies in a small Spanish brigantine. On his arrival at a Dutch factory his ship and goods were seized, and he was imprisoned for some months. He arrived in England LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER ] towards the end of 1707, to find Funncli's nwntive. "already published," and his reputation at a low ebb. Late in 1707 he issued his angry and incoherent " Vindica- rion," a piece of literature which neither vindicates nor convinces. It is the writing of a very angry, Jntcmpcnte person. It effects nothing in itself; but its tone helps us to understand how this gentle chronicler of the lesser kingdoms should have beaten his lieutenant aboard the Roebuck and have failed to keep order aboard the Si. George. It is, however, ccruin that Dampier had still a follow- ing of admirers. He had not been many months ashore before he was appointed pilot to the Bristol privateers, Duie and Dutchess, then fitting out, under Captain Woodes- Rogers, for a cruise tn the South Seas. The command of these ships had been given to Woodes-Rogcrs before Dampicr's return from the East Indies; but the position of pilot was honourable, and Dampicr's accept- ance of it was by no means a sign of destitution. His name appears fairly frequently in the published ac- counts of this voyage. He was one of the council which decided important questions, and his advice was frequently taken in positions of difficulty. The voyage was highly successful and highly romantic. After liberating Alex- ander Selkirk from Juan Fernandez (he had been left there by Captun Stradling of the Cinque Ports galley four years and four months before), they plundered Guayaquil and made several rich prizes. They failed to take the Manilla galleon ; but when they arrived in the Thames (14th October, 1711) after an absence of three years and two months, they had " conveyed " booty to the value of ^170,000. This booty (half of which belonged to the crews) was not divided until 1 7 1 9 ; but no doubt Dampier was able to obtain an advance (if he felt the need of one) from the owners or his wealthy friends. He was now an old man of sixty years, and (one gathers) no longer strong and active. He does not appear to have gone 9 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER again to sea. Probably he returned to his work in the Customs, and lived quietly in the parish of St Stephen's, Coleman Street, in the society of good and learned friends, until his death early in March 17 15. His will is dated 29th of November, 17 14. It describes him as "diseased and weak of body," "but of sound and perfect mind/* He left nine-tenths of his property, with all his goods and household stuff, to his dear cousin Grace Mercer, of London, spinster. The remaining tenth he left to his brother, George Dampier, "of Porton, near Breadport, Dorset, gent." The will was proved on the 23rd of March in the following year. In estimating the work of any man, it is well to re- member the conditions under which he worked ; for, until those are known, one cannot tell what difficulties he over- came. Under some circumstances, as when " pricked on by your popes and kings," a man does well almost because he cannot help himself. Under others, as when hounded from pillar to post, like Dekker ; or dogged by duns, like Hogarth's poet ; a man deserves reward for doing anything that is not positively criminal. In the case of William Dampier, I would ask those readers, who find the voyages dull, to remember the life of him who wrote them. When one considers his busy life of action, one is surprised that Dampier should have found time to write the three books of voyages by which he is remembered to-day. But when one considers that the man's literary life was spent among pirates, lumber-men, and drunken and ignorant sailors, one is surprised that he ever wrote a word. It is pathetic to think of him ("a man," as Coleridge says, " of exquisite refinement of mind "), writ- ing up his journal, describing a bunch of flowers, or a rare fish, in the intervals between looting a wine-ship and sacking a village. Of case and leisure, during the years of his literary production, he knew nothing. His best 10 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER ok was written aboard a buccaneer cruiser, amid the I ^^Hrunkcnness and noise of his shipmates. He must have ^P^onc without sleep many times (a sailor will appreciate this ■ Mcrifice) in order to "take a survey," or drawing, of the cout. When he went ashore he did not follow his mates into the rum-shops, to taste the " fine Rack," or curious " Boshee Drink," of their heart's desires. He examined the natives and the country, and jotted down every detail of every bind, beast, tree, and fruit which he chanced to see. We cannot say that the faithful chronicling of minute naturai detail is the work of a great intellect ; but such chronicling, to have any value, should be both faithful and minute ; and the supreme faithfulness and care of Dampier's chronicling can only be gauged by those who take the trouble to compare the work of even the very belt of the chroniclers who have succeeded him with the perfect work done under such diificulties aboard the buccaneer cruiser. The accumulation of knowledge is ooe of the many pleasant ways by which men turn from wisdom. Knowledge in itself, and unapplied, is not power; it IS not even weakness. It is the comfortable, fat, and cloying thing which keeps men's souls from life. Those who give themselves to the accumulation of knowledge, bory their beauty in the dust, and heap many parti- coloured blankets about their central fires. There are some men who acquire infinite knowledge that they may brood infinitely upon the whole of life. The work of these men is, as it were, a key which opens the doors into the living world. Or, in the case of the greatest of them, it presents a perfected world, in which all things have been judged and ordered, according to their true significance. William Oampier is not among the greatest of these writert, for he judged nothing, not even himself; but his work has this supreme merit, chat it surveys the lesser kingdoms with a calm, equable, untroubled, and delighted He charms us as all must charm us whose imagi- LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER nations are both quick and clear. He excites us also, because he enables us to possess imaginatively the experi- ence of his varied and wild life. It would be well to close this introduction with an eloquent passage from the peroration of the " Biographical Sketch " attributed to Admiral Smyth : — *' We have already testified our respect for the writings of Dam pier. . . . The information he affords flows as from a mind which possesses the mastery of its subject, and is desirous to communicate it. He delights and instructs by the truth and discernment with which he narrates the inci- dents of a peculiar life ; and describes the attractive and im- portant realities of nature with a fidelity and sagacity that anticipate the deductions of philosophy. Hence he was the first who discovered and treated of the geological structure of sea coasts ; and though the local magnetic attraction in ships had fallen under the notice of seamen, he was among the first to lead the way to its investigation, since the facts that * stumbled ' him at the Cape of Good Hope, respect- ing the variations of the compass, excited the mind of Flinders, his ardent admirer, to study the anomaly. His sterling sense enabled him to give the character without the strict forms of science to his faithful delineations and physical suggestions ; and inductive inquirers have rarely been so much indebted to any adventurer whose pursuits were so entirely remote from their subjects of speculation. . . . By the French, the Dutch, and even the Spaniards, he has been described as a man distinguished above his fellows, and as one to whose professional eminence, his own country has scarcely done justice. In foreign works the epithets of exacts skilfuly admirable^ incomparable are found attached to his name; the morose Make Brun terms him the "learned"; Humboldt expressly says that the illustrious savans Condamine, Juan, and UUoa added little to his observations; and the author of the "Navigation aux 12 LIFE OF WILLIAM DAMPIER Tares Australes" emphatically demands : " Mais troupe t'on des navigateurs comparables a Dampier ? " Our own seamen and geographers have also tendered the | tribute of their admiration. By Pinkerton, who is rather a ' niggardly praiser in general, he is extolled as " the Cook of I 1 former age," Byron, Cook, Broughton, Flinders, and . othen of our choicest naval worthies, evinced the strongest respe« for his testimony ; and those excellent officers, Philip Carteret and Erasmus Gower have declared, that they have referred to Dampier, while on his ground, with ' greater confidence than to any other navigator. Both Howe and Nelson recommended his volumes to their youngsters, and Lord Exmouth assured us that he had read them over itveral times. To this decisive evidence we j have the great pleasure of adding that of the judicious ' Admiral Bumey, one of the shipmates of Cook : " It not easy," he says, " to name another voyager or traveller I who \a& given more useful information to the world ; to i whom the merchant and mariner are so much indebted ; or who has communicated his information in a mere unem- barrassed and intelligible a manner. And this he has done in a style perfectly unassuming, equally free from afFecta- tioa, and from the most distant appearance of invention." It would seem that the portrait of William Dampier, now in the National Portrait Gallery, was painted by Thomas Murray at the instance of Sir Hans Sloane. It is mentioned in the catalogue of Sir Hans Sloane's collection, but it was transferred to the British Museum during the eighteenth century, after Sir Hans Sloane's decease. An engraving of it, by Charles Sherwin, was published during Dampier's lifetime. JOHN MASEFIELD. THE TEXT rHE text used for the " New Voyage round the fTorld,*" the " Voyage to Tonquiriy^ the " Description of Camptackj^ and the " Discourse of Windsy^ is that of the sixth edition. The text used for the " Voyage to New Ho/land*^ is that of the edition of 1729, which has been carefully collated with the earlier editions. The annotated manuscript of the ^^ New Voyage round the JVorli^ is to he seen in Sloane MSS. 3236. // is much shorter than the printed version ; but it contains many picturesque personal notes which the printed version lacks. Some of these have been printed as footnotes to the text in the present edition. It has been said that Dampier never wrote his own books, but supplied or dictated his material to practised writers. One has but to compare the annotated manuscript with the printed version, to see that Dampier was the writer of both ; but that before going to press, he worked over his old journals with minute and loving care, expanding and compressing and excluding, till he had wrought his matter to his mind. H A NEW VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dcfcribing particularly The Iftbmsi of America, feveral Coafts and Iflandsin the/i^on the en- couragement of Common Fame, he presumes so much upon your Candor, as to lay before thU Account of his Travels. As the Scene of them not only Remote, but for the most part little frequented o, so there may be some Things in them New even to a; and some possibly, not altogether unuseful to the iblick: And that just Veneration which the World f», 11 to your General Worth, so especially to that Zeal r the Advancement of Knowledge, and the interest of ur Country, which you express upon all Occasions, gives u a panicular Right to whatever may any way tend to E promoting these Interests, as an Offering due to your cnt. I have not so much of the Vanity of a Traveller, to be fond of telling Stories, especially of this kind ; nor [) I think this plain Piece of mine, deserves a place among ur more Curious Collections : much less have I the Arro- Bce to use your Name by way of Patronage for the too pvious Fsults, both of the Author and the Work. Yet re I avow, according to my narrow Sphere and poor ixtities, a hearty Zeal for the promoting of useful Know- Ige, and of any thing that may never so remotely tend my Countries Advantage: And 1 must own an Ambition ' Cfeaili^* Monuirue, Kul of Halifax (1661- 'al Soeie«r an Appendix, which I once designed to this Book; as I a Chapter about the Winds* in different parts of the l^orld ; to a Description of the Bay of Cami^eachy * in ; West Indies, where I lived long in a former Voyage; 1 to a particular Chorographical Description of all the buth Sea Coast of America/ partly from a Spanish MS, Bd partly from my own and other Travellers Observa- . besides those contained in this Book. But such an hppcndix would have swelled it too unreasonably : and rfore I chose rather to publish it hereafter by its self, "«• opportunity shall serve. And the same must be said also as to a particular Voyage" from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra, toTonquin, Malacca, &c. which should have been itucrted as part of this General one ; but it would have been toi> long, and therefore omitting it for the present, I have carried on this, next way from Sumatra to England ; and so ide the Tour of the World correspondent to the Title. For the better apprehending the Course of the Voyage, the Situation of the Places mentioned in it, I have '. several Maps to be engraven, and some particular " 5 of my own Composure. Among them, there is Eufjr ediiioiK : Am/ it may. Earty cdiliotti : ilfstpitil " The Dweoune nf Winds " fornix Part III- of his second vnlutnc. "Tbv Dctciiptinn of Cuni>eac1iy " fnnns Pari II. of his sccodcI volume. **Tbc CttomEnfibital ncscnpiinn," dcsignei) oriKinally as an appendix % ■»» nei-u published. It is probable thai Danipicr felt him- 3 0»e luk of ctdlating the "WaKBoocrs" of .Sharp, Ringrosc, was loih," he says in the Iniroduciior ■ ' " c a work, much of which musi have t( »et have left unavoidably many nior> Hme and firlpx for this affair; an TW bcut of "guinea-wonn," compclkd him 10 go buccaneering. ■crauMvl tow "11 or 1 1 monthi" atun){ the Campeachy coast, then worked Jfaa as a lac*w^ culler, (or " ten or twelve months," and then relumed - fi-tr"-", in May 1678. From Jamaica ho sailed to England for a brief ■^■K, arrtTiDK tn Lotidon in August 1678. and sailing from thence about 1 iMMh* lalcr. tut Pon R«yaj. 27 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. when we came in sight of the Island Hispaniola,* and were '^79 coasting along on the South side of it by the little Isles of Vacca, or Ash, I observed Captain Knapman was more vigilant than ordinary, keeping at a good distance offshore, for fear of coming too near those small low Islands; as he did once, in a Voyage from England, about the year 1673, losing his Ship there, by the carelessness of his Mates. But we succeeded better ; and arrived safe at Port Royal in Jamaica some time in April 1679, and went immediately ashore. I had brought some Goods with me from England, which I intended to sell here, and stock my self with Rum and Sugar, Saws, Axes, Hats, Stockings, Shoes, and such other Commodities, as I knew would sell among the Campeachy Log-wood Cutters. Accordingly I sold my English Cargo at Port Royal; but upon some maturer considerations of my intended Voyage to Campeachy I changed my thoughts of that design, and continued at Jamaica all that year, in expectation of some other business. I shall not trouble the Reader with my observations at that Isle, so well known to Englishmen ; nor with the particulars of my own Affairs during my stay there. But in short, having there made a purchase of a small Estate in Dorsetshire,^ near my Native Country of Somerset, of one whose Title to it I was well assured of, I was just em- barking my self for England, about Christmas, 1679, when one Mr. Hobby invited me to go first a short Trading Voyage to the country of the Moskito's,' of whom I shall speak in my first Chapter. I was willing to get up some Money before my return, having laid out what I had at Jamaica ; so I sent the Writing of my new purchase along ^ Hispaniola, now called St. Domingo, or Haytl. The isles of Vacca, or Ash, now La Vache, lie near the south-western extremity. * Perhaps that at *' Porion, near Breadport," afterwards owned by the s bro he c( Cap< , „ , the Gulf of Honduras. The Mosquito Indians were always friendly to the English. See Burney, " South Sea " (" H istor>' of the Buccaneers," chap. viii.). 28 THE INTRODUCTION with the stmc friends whom I should have accompanied 1 [jiglind. and went on board Mr. Hobby. Soon after our setting out we came to an anchor again m Ncgril Bay, at the West end of Jamaica; but finding then: Captain Coxon,' Sawkiiis," Sharp,' and other Priva- tem, Mr. HoW>y'& Men all left him to go with them, Hpa an Expedition they had contrived, leaving not one h him, beside my self; and being thus left alone, after 1 3 or 4 days stay with Mr. Hobby, I was the more aily persuaded to go with them too. It was shortly after Christmas 1679 when we set out. be first Expedition was to Portobel,' which being accom- pfahcd, it was resolved ^ to march by Land over the Isthmus of t^rrien, uptm some new Adventures in the South Seas. Accordingly on the 5th of April 1680, we went ashore on the Uthmus* near Golden Island," one nf the Sambaloes,' to the number ^ of between 3 and 400 Men, carrying with ui such Provisions as were necessary, and Toys wherewith t*i gntifie the Wild Indians, through whose Country we ! to p*SB. In about nine ' days march we arrived at t of this bucouicer will be given in the Tven Dompier met him he w.is in conimnnc! of nearly too men. ^ Savktn*. KiclisiiL See Appenilix. He was "a man who was as tast atnJ caangeoui at any cuulil be," * Sban^ Banholoraew. See Appendix. The journal of this captain (im ■ virnl account of the expedition. * PtmUihtL Puflo or Puerto liellOi the fine harbour discovered by fiiliBaliiii on [be nonh coui o( the Isthmus of Darien, a liitte 10 the cast tf Coion. AflcT 1^84 11 became the port of the galleons in place of ilie i«fctiMiiiii1 Ncntbrc de Dios, some tew miles farther east. Porto Bello » a very befluiifnl but very unhealthy pl.-icc It has now on!y a shadow of n fameT impoTtance, but in the seventeenth century it was a splendid and •«»!tkr city- OampDcr't piuty iharcd about £y3 a man from the spoils of it, aad till* only deven ycon »fier it had been sacked and gutted by Henry ' At ibe time of ihe discussion the buccaneer force consisted of nine fcfo, 477 men. and 43 guitt. Two companies were French, and these look on part in tbe ci]i0liiioD, being ** not willing 10 go to Panama." * CoMcB liUnd lies olT Ihe Isthmus in Fat. e.S4 N., long. 77.40 W. ; it is (be iBMi cuierty of the " Sambaloes," or Mulaias Islands. ^ ' ftr*"'"" ■"'^""'"'1" or Isles of Son Bias, "certain islands reach- n extent, and lying fourteen Icasues westward " of ihc Tbey are now called ibe Mulalus. c 131 all told. n days. 39 I -::?3?.f VOYAGES rr - '_■ TTi Srirr ». Cr^st, and there "•^i -B^ir; IS sight of "ir^r '— "J^" itremptcd : ^*gr CzcinianJer in ;::-. -11-: ell •. ^: rni^i >:=:; 5tiv at the V . ' -'-r: -- r r:= J-i?: :: ?ir^ Accord- ir. V ^ - !- -:? :r j^ :»: zzt rth of June, ::-- - -- : .^ — rr.a irrc P-lu.' -s-j came to .. ^ -r-. - ::2 J iirc :r rir., zni took it J"^- "xr ^"^ :: N ■iirrrcr -^t "^--: thence to .r.i « :^^- :.:w iX'^t ^ -_-:?tn:as were ■ ' .:.t r-zr^xTi:. - "s-h.-.;?: was the ; V.:: r-cc ^-Ti- * t: the Nrrthward, . -«--:-. : i-r:.'^ T:"3^. livantage- :r :.:: Tirre. I: *a5 a * : - : r.-i :-^,--LT•^:.-^ ::■■< :: &at it >.-.- ^.: Tir:. : .T ".i="r fr w^as not " v:,f 1 «— _Lr. fsrn up a ■-*■■-■ ramous, •• • . , • . ■":■:' * ■ : ;*: r 5~ r» viowTi at ■ ' ^: ,-;-■:?■ \ :.-%." X r.^r:>e has left a >^ . • '. y.'..:- ■ 7''f. --r-.-. * .-ne-i with ■,'-^r> '.: >: ^.Tr*:^'! :.■» have been ■". -vi^-si i •• £5 2 sketch and • • • . X, >v .. : ,■ •.. * ''i-^ ■.*;■ !-::-:;•-: •>: provisions, ,'f '."..-.'""S;- ir::. Tr.e :own they .'i ; " .'r rrr>e-: Cviji-ilv). »^ . < ♦-■■ — ■ .N. •. S •" '."hi' h-.:wV.\r.eirs were beaten ..V, ' »v . . A ..* -tvv: i"*"^ :.^*r.. The ha::! e was fought *v THE INTRODUCTION LouIt situated in the hollow of the Elbow, or bending of an." 'ePtruvian Coast. But being there repulsed with great '^^' IJoa,wt continued our course Northward, till by the middle l«f April we were come in sight of the Isle of Plata, a little ■ to the Southward of the Equinoctial Line. 1 hive related this part of my Voyage thus summarily id concisely, as well because the World hath Accounts of hit ilnady, in the relations that Mr. Ringrose and others Ihwe given of Captain Sharp's Expedition, who was made F thief Commander, upon Sawking's being kill'd ; as also, I beame in the prosecution of this Voyage I shall come to ipak of these parts again, upon occasion of my going the woikl time into the South Seas: and shall there describe It Urge the places both of the North and South America, a tbcy occurred to me. And for this reason, that I might iroid needless Repetitions, and hasten to such particulars, M the Publick hath hitherto had no account of, 1 have chosen to comprize the Relation of my Voyage hitherto, in '■hit short compass, and place it as an Introduction before the rest, that the Reader may the better perceive where I man to begin to be Particular ; for there I have plac'd the 3nJe of my first Chapter. All therefore that I have to add to the Introduction, I thta; Thai while we lay at the Isle of John Fernando, 'ratain Sharp was, by general consent, displaced from Commander ; ' the Company being not satisfied with his Courage or Behaviour, In his stead, ain Wailing* was advanced : but he being killed rtly after before .\rica, we were without a Commander all the rest of our return towards Plata. Now hcling being killed, a great number of the meaner sort to be as earnest for choosing Captain Sharp again llbc jcxh laBoAty l68t. Uompicr was one of ihc ship-kccpcrs on thai _tamom- RiBgtote ami Sharp were both engaged, while Wafer stayed in ite bMO, and ipent the day in pieparinx salves for the wounded. ■ Thnaiasaa tbe6tb January loSt. llie deposition was anaiigeil ashore, W «■« •horn Sluup calb " a true-hearted, diMembtins A'nf England man, f*^ C*i hf name. Cox left an interesting joumsl of the voyage. ' John Watling, who, " having been an Old Huccanetr, had gained the — - B of bcitiK a »toui Seaman." Walling seems to have been cruel, Ho held command for less than a month. 31 . -C . » -^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES* Ky znzj the ticuct. js before they had been as forward as any ^im him out: And on the other side^ the abler and more experienced Men. being altogether dissatisfied with Shirrs rirmer Cxiduct, would bv no means consent to hive him chjier.. In shorty by that time we were come :n sight of the IsLind Plata, the difference between the Contending Pirties was grown so high, that they resolved to part Companies ; having first made an Agreement, that which Party 5«3ever should, upon Polling, appear to have the Majority, they should keep the Ship : And the other should content themselves with the Launch or Long-boat, and Canoas. and return back over the Isthmus, or go to seek their fortune other wavs, as thev would. Accordingly we rut it to the Vote ; and upon dividing. Captain Sharp's Party carried it. I, who had never been pleased with his management, though I had hitherto kept mv mind to mv self, now declared mv self on the side of those that were Out-voted ; and according to our agree- ment, we took our shares of such Necessaries, as were fit to carry over Land with us, (for that was our Resolution :) and so prepared for our Departure. 3^ THE TRAVELS CAPTAIN' WILLIAM DAMPIER CHAP. I ■ • Attmtmt »f thi Author's Rrturn tut »f the South Sras, to his Landing mair Cafit Si. Uwrfnce, In ther -t white Men who bore Arms, a Spanish Indian, who bore .rm* also; and two Mmkito Indians, who always bear H.-'-ms inumgsi the Privateers, and are much valued by them ■^ striking Rsh, and Turtle or Tortoise, and Manatee or -J Cow ; and 5 Slaves ukcn in the South Seas, who/ell to Tbc Craft which carried us was a Lanch, or Long , one Canoa, and another Canoa which had been sawn r in the middle, in order to have made Bumkins,^ ft Vcwels for carrying water, if we had not separated from ■ Ship. This we joyn'd together again and made it provuling Sails to help us along : And for 3 days CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. before we parted, we sifted so much Flower as we could 1681 ^eii carry, and rubb'd up 20 or 30 pound of Chocolate with sugar to sweeten it; these things and a Kettle, the Slaves carried also on their backs after we landed. And because there were some who designed to go with us that we knew were not well able to march, we gave out, that if any Man faultred in the Journey over Land he must expect to be shot to death ; for we knew that the Spaniards would soon be after us, and one Man falling into their hands might be the ruin of us all, by giving an account of our strength and condition : yet this would not deter 'em from going with us. We had but little Wind when we parted from the Ship ; but before 12a clock the Sea-breeze came in strong, which was like to founder us before we got in with the shoar ; for our security therefore, we cut up an old dry Hide that we brought with us, and barricadoed the Lanch all round with it to keep the Water out. About 10 a clock at night we got in about 7 leagues to windward of Cape Passao^ under the Line, and then it proved calm ; and we lay and drove all night, bang fatigu'd the preceding day. The 1 8th day we had little wind till the afternoon ; and then we made sail, standing along the shore to the Northward, having the Wind at S. S. W. and fair Weather. At 7 a clock we came abrest of Cape Passao, and found a small Bark at an Anchor in a small Bay to Leeward * of the Cape, which we took, our own Boats being too small to transport us. We took her just under the Equinoctial Line, she was not only a help to us but in taking her we were safe from being described : we did not design to have meddled with any when we parted with our consorts, nor to have seen any if we could have helped it. The Bark came from Gallio' laden with Timber, and was bound for Guiaquil.* > Cape Passado, about 20' south of the Equator. • To leeward is here to the northward. ' Gallio, or Gallo, a small island, covered with timber, in Tumaco Bay to the north of Mangles Pt. It supplied much of the timber needed in the barren ports of Peru and Chile. * Now Guayaquil, the chief port in Ecuador. 34 [RETURN OUT OF THE SOUTH SEAS The 19th day in the morning we came to an anchor ah. I 12 leagues to the Southward of Cape St. Francisco,' >68i 1 b|>u[ our new Bark into a better trim. In 3 or 4 hours I we finished our business, and came to sail again, I Kcercd along the Coast with the Wind at S. S. W. ■ to touch at Gorgonia. Being to the Northward of Cape St. Francisco we met *ith very wet weather; but the wind continuing we -rriroi at Gotgonia the 24th day in the morning, before ' w« light ; we were afraid to approach it in the day " rne, for fear the Spaniards should lie there for us, it ■-.ng the place where we careened lately, and where they ■itght expect us. When we came ashore we found the Spaniards had ttcn there to seek after us, by a House they had built, which would entertain 100 Men, and by a great Cross before the Doors. This was token enough that the Spaniards did expect us this way again ; therefore we ex- - lined our Prisoners if they knew any thing of it, who nfosed they had heard of a Pereago, (or large Canoa) -at rowed with 1 4 Oars, which was kept in a River on •Jx Main, and once in 2 or 3 days came over to Gorgonia purpcoely to sec for us ; and that having discovered us, she was to make all speed to Panama with the News ; T^ere they had 3 Shijis ready to send after us. We lay here all the day, and scrubb'd' our new Bark, -Ji if ever we should be chased we might the better isapc: we fill'd our Water, and in the evening went from thence, having the Wind at S. W. a brisk gale. TTic 25th day we had much Wind and Rain, and we lost the Cano* that had been cut and was joined together ; wc would have kept all our Canoas to carry us up the River, the Bark not being so convenient. TTie J7th day wc went from thence with a moderate € trf Wind at S. W. In the afternoon wc had excessive ^cwen of Rain. _^i KMDc Ko' Donh of the line. B'^^liKftHCIo and other tilih were scraped or burned from ihe bull V lte( ■!*£ Biiglit Kli()c mine imiiolhtr inrouKh the sea. 35 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ak. The 28th day was very wet all the morning; betwixt i68f 10 and 1 1 it cleared up, and we saw two great Ships about a league and half to the Westward of us, we being then two leagues from the shore, and about 10 leagues to the Southward of point Garrachina.^ These Ships had been cruising between Gorgonia and the Gulf 6 months; but whether our Prisoners did know it I cannot tell. We presently furled our Sails, and rowed in close under the shore, knowing that they were Cruisers; for if they had been bound to Panama this Wind would have carried them thither; and no Ships bound from Pknanui come on this side of the Bay, but keep the North side of the Bay till as far as the Keys of Quibo to the West- ward ; and then if they are bound to the Southward they stand over and may fetch Galleo, or betwixt it and Cape St. Francisco. The Glare did not continue long before it rained agun, and kept us from the sight of each other : but if they had seen and chased us, we were resolved to run our Bark and Canoas ashore, and take ourselves to the Mountains and travel over Land ; for we knew that the Indians which lived in these parts never had any commerce with the Spaniards, so we might have had a chance for our Lives. The 29th day, at 9 a clock in the morning, we came to an Anchor at Point Garrachina, about 7 leagues Arom the Gulf of St. Michael, which was the place where we first came into the South Seas, and the way by which we designed to return. Here we lay all the day, and went ashore and dried our Cloaths, clean'd our Guns, dried our Ammunition, and fixt our selves against our Enemies, if we should be attacked ; for we did expect to find some opposition at Landing : we likewise kept a good look-out all the day, for fear of those two Ships that we saw the day before. The 30th day in the morning at 8 a clock we came into the Gulf of St. Michael's mouth ; for we put from ' At the entrance to the Gulf of San Miguel. 36 RETURN OUT OF THE SOUTH SEAS sint GarrachiDa in the Evening, designing to have reached the Islands in the Gulf before day ; that we might the ' better work our escape from our Enemies, if we should find any of them waiting to stop our passage. About 9 a clock we came to an Anchor a mile without » large Island, which lies 4 miles from the mouth of the Kiver; we had other small Islands without us, and might "JVC gone up into the River, having a strong tide of flood, Jt would not adventure farther, till we had lookt well aooul us. We immediately sent a Canoa ashore on the Island, wbeic we saw (what we always feared) a Ship at the Mouth of the River, lying close by the shore, and a ^-irge Tent by it, by which we found it would be a hard 'isk for us to escape them. When the Camia came aboard with this news, some of jr Men were a little disheartned ; but it was no more ir.An 1 ever expected. Oof care was now to get safe over land, seeing we not land here according to our desire : Therefore the Tide of flood was spent, we manned our I and rowed again to the Island, to see if the Enemy i yet in motion. When we came ashore we dispersed iclves all over the Island, to prevent our Enemies coming any way to view us; and presently after »-watcr we saw a small Canoa coming over from the I to the Island that we were on; which made us all ; into our Canoa, and wait their coming ; and we lay till they came within Pistol-shot of us, and then ' ready, we »tancd out and took them. There were la her one white man and two Indians ; who being ex- i-niAcd, told us that the Ship which we saw at the Rivers -T"Oth, had lain there six months, guarding the River, waiting for our coming; that she had 12 Guns, and 150 ^smen and Soldiers ; that the Seamen all lay aboard, 'jI the Soldiers lay ashore in their Tent ; that there '•^n 100 men at the Mines, who had all small Arms, 'i vouM be aboard in two Tides time. They likewise " -d ML that there were two Ships cruising in the Bay, 37 be£L CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. between this place and Gorgonia; the biggest had 20 '^' Guns, and 2cx^ Men, the other 10 Guns, and 150 men: Besides all this they told us that the Indians on this ude the Country were our Enemies; which was the worst news of all. However we presently brought these Pri- soners aboard, and got under sail, turning out with the Tide of Ebb, for it was not convenient to stay longer there. We did not long consider what to do; but intended to land that night, or the next day betimes; for we did not question but we should either get a good Conmierce with the Indians,^ by such Toys as we had purposely brought with us, or else force our way through their Country, in spight of all their opposition: and we did not fear what these Spaniards could do against us, in case they should land and come after us. We had a strong Southerly Wind, which blew right in; and the Tide of Ebb being far spent, we could not turn out. I perswaded them to run into the River of Congo, which is a large River, about three leagues from the Island where we lay ; which with a Southerly Wind wc could have done : and when we were got so high as the Tide flows, then we might have landed. But all the arguments I could use were not of force sufficient to convince them that there was a large River so near us, but they would land somewhere, they neither did know how, where, nor when.* When we had rowed and towed against the Wind all night ; we just got about Cape St. Lorenzo in the morning ; and sailed about 4 miles farther to the Westward, and run into a small Creek within two Keys, or little Islands, and rowed up to the Head of the Creek, being about a Mile up, and there we landed May i, 1681. We got out all our Provision and Cloaths, and then sunk our Vessel. ' A note in the original MS. (Sloane 3236) runs "for we very well know the hearts of the Indians.'* * Note in MS. '* There was not a man in this party but myself that ever Heard of this River." The MS. runs "All the persuasions I could use were not of force sufficient to worke on their stubbome oature." 38 ■ ACCOUNT OF THE MOSKITO INDIANS ^L While wc were landing and fixing our Snap-sacks to ^■gurfh, our Moskito Indians struck a plentiful Dish of Fish, ' ^Hvhich we immediately drest, and therewith satisfied our ^^Huiwer. ^1 Having made mention of the Moskito Indians, it may ^H w be amiss to conclude this Chapter with a short account ^Bflf them. They are tall, well-made, raw-bon'd, lusty, ^■Mrcng, and nimble of Foot, long-visaged, lank black Hair, ^Bfeok stern, hard favour'd, and of a dark Copper-colour ^HpDniptcxion. They are but a small Nation or Family, and ^^Br too Men of them in Number, inhabiting on the Main ^^Hl the Norib-side, near Cape Gratia Dios ; between Cape ^^nonduras and Nicaragua. They are very ingenious at thnming the Lance, Fisgig,' Harpoon, or any manner of (hrt, being bred to it from their Infancy ; for the Children ^rnttating their Parents, never go abroad without a Lance ■n ihdr Hands, which they throw at any Object, till use bth made them masters of the Art. Then they learn to r-ut by a Lince, Arrow, or Dart : The manner is thus. Two boys stand at a small distance, and dart a blunt stick i' one another ; each of them holding a small stick in his ■:ght ha»d, with which he strikes away that which was :!arted at hina. As they grow in years they become more uleztcrouft and courageous, and then they will stand a fair tnaric, to any one that will shoot Arrows at them ; which they will put by with a very small stick, no bigger than the Rod' of a Fowling-piece; and when they are grown ■ ■ be Men, they will guard themselves from Arrows, tho' -.ey come very thick at them, provided two do not happen lo oocnc It once. They have extraordinary good Eyes, ^^U will discry a Sail at Sea farther, and see any thing ^^^^er than we. Their chiefest employment in their own ^^^nntry is to strike Fish, Turtle or Manatee, the manner of which I describe elsewhere. Chap. 3. For this they -.re esteemed and coveted by all Privateers; for one or TWO of them in a Ship, will maintain 100 Men : So that ' ^'*tV' ^'*^Vi "^ **tiEV> ■>()* gencmlly called the grains, a harpoon *«> Am or RK»« Mtb«d bead>. 39 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. when we careen our Ships, we choose commonly such '^'^' places, where there is plenty of Turtle or Manatee for these Moskito Men to strike ; and it is very rare to find Privateers destitute of one or more of them, when the Commander, or most of the Men are English ; but they do not love the French, and the Spaniards they hate mortally. When they come among Privateers they get the use of Guns, and prove very good marks Men ; they behave themselves very bold in fight, and never seem to flinch nor hang back ; for they think that the white Men with whom they are, know better than they do when it is l^st to fight, and let the disadvantage of their party be never so great, they will never yield nor give back while any of their party stand. I could never perceive any Religion nor any Ceremonies, or superstitious Observations among them, being ready to imitate us in whatsoever they saw us do at any time. Only they seem to fear the Devil, whom they call Wallesaw ; and they say he often appears to some among them, whom our Men commonly call their Priest, when they desire to speak with him on urgent business ; but the rest know not any thing of him, nor how he appears, otherwise than as these Priests tell them. Yet they all say they must not anger him, for then he will beat them, and that sometimes he carries away these their Priests. Thus much I have heard from some of them who speak good English. They marry but one Wife, with whom they live till death separates them. At their first coming t(^ther, the Man makes a very small Plantation,' for there is Land enough, and they may choose what spot they please. They delight to settle near the Sea, or by some River, for the sake of striking Fish, their beloved imployment. Far within Land there are other Indians, with whom they are always at War. After the Man hath cleared a spot of Land, and hath planted it, he seldom minds it afterward, but leaves the managing of it to his Wife, and he goes out a striking. Sometimes he seeks only for Fish, 1 Wafer tells us that the plantation was cleared for the newly married couple by the men of the tribe. 40 ACCOUNT OF THE MOSKITO INDIANS II other times for Turtle, or Manatee, and whatever he mi he brings home to his Wife, and never stirs out to ' ■«k for more till it is all eaten. When hunger begins to wc, he cither takes his Canoa and seeks for more game itSca, or walks out into the Woods and hunts about for f'ttory.' Wirrce," each a sort of wild Hogs, or Deer; and KldoHi returns empty handed, nor seeks for any more so l'«g as any of it lasts. Their Plantations are so small, ihit they cannot subsist with what they produce : for their itfgei Plantations have not above 20 or -jo Plantain- Trea,' a bed of Yams* and Potatoes," a bush of Indian Ptpper, and a small spot of Pine-apples ; which last fruit It » main thing they delight in, for with these they make I tort of drink which our men call Pine-drink, much «ocmed by these Moskito's, and to which they invite «h other to be merry, providing Fish and Flesh also. Whoever of them makes of this Liquor treats his Neigh- tKun, making a little Canoa full at a time, and so enough Co fflikc them all drunk ; and it is seldom that such Feasts »t made, but the party that makes them hath some ^ioign, either to Ik revenged for some injury done him, ''■f to dcbite of such differences as have hapned between him and hb Neighbours, and to examine into the truth ''jfitKfa nutters. Yet before they are warmed with drink, itiey never s^ieak one word of their grievances : and the ■'xnen, who commonly know their Husbands designs, prevent them from doing any injury to each other by hNiing their Lances, Harpoons, Bows and Arrows, or any "ther Weapon that they have. These Moskito's are in general very civil and kind to 't English, of whom they receive a great deal of respect, '1 when they are aboard their Ships, and also ashore, 1* t'trtaT. A yic(;arioii» mU] bog. "'Tis black, and has link short ' fe M pmtjr nnnblc" ll it known lo n-iluralisls as DualyUi torquaius. WvTcc. "A wty %°"A *on of a wjlil beast, which is much like unto EafTttti M'Ht-' ll bftt luiks and bristles like the European wild-boar. r.rr t.-,\-iyi,K than the p«cuiry. Matuialists call it the Dicotylts CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. either in Jamaica, or elsewhere, whither they often come 1681 yf\^\^ ^j^g Seamen. We always humour them, letting them go any whither as they will, and return to their Country in any Vessel bound that way, if they please. They will have the management of themselves in their striking, and will go in their own little Canoa, which our men could not go in without danger of oversetting : nor will they then let any white man come in their C^noa, but will go a striking in it just as they please : All which we allow them. For should we cross them, tho' they should sec Shoals of Fish, or Turtle, or the like, they will purposely strike their Harpoons and Turtle-irons aside, or so glance them as to kill nothing. They have no form of Govern- ment among them, but acknowledge the King of England for their Soveraign : They learn our Language, and take the Governour of Jamaica ^ to be one of the greatest Princes in the world. While they are among the English they wear good Cloaths, and take delight to go neat and tight ; but when they return again to their own Country they put by all. their Cloaths, and go after their own Country fashion, wearing only a small piece of Linnen tied about their Wastes, hanging down to their Knees. ^ In later times "The King (of the Mosquito Country) bad his com- mission from the Governor of Jamaica, and at every new Governor's anrival, they came over to know his pleasure. The King of the Mosquitoes was received by His Grace the Duke of Portland (Governor of Jamaica, 1722-3) with that courtesy which was natural to him, and with more ceremony thsm seemed to be due to a Monarch who held his sovereignty by commission." 42 Tit Jmtfw'i Land Jwrntyfrom thi South to the North Sea, avtr tht Ttrra Firaia, or Itthmus ofDarien. BKING landed, May the ist, we began our march i about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon, directing our ' I course by our pocket Compasses N. E. and having gone about 2 miles, we came to the foot of a hill where we built small Hutts and lay all night; having excessive Rains till 12 a Clock. The 2d day in the morning having fair weather we ascended the hill, and found a small Indian path, which we fojiowcd till wc found it run too much Easterly, and then doubting it would carry us out of our way, we climb'd some of the highest Trees on the Hill, which was not meanly furnished with as large and tall Trees as ever I saw : At length wc discovered some Houses in a Valley on the North side of the Hill, but it being steep could Dot descend on that side, but followed the small path which led us down the Hill on the East side, where we prckcnily found several other Indian Houses. The first that wc came to at the foot of the Hill, had none but women at home, who could not speak Spanish, but gave each of us a good Calabash or shell full of Corn-drink.* Tbc other Houses had some men at home, but none that •poke Spanish ; yet we made a shift to buy such food as their Houses or Plantations atFordcd, which we drest, and all tctfcther; having all sorts of our Provision in lOo, because none should live better than others, or U their 1 ^^t all P. I Or ducbali. W&icr »ays that "it Usies like sour small Beer, y«i frrf ■BicmcatiDx'' It was made in a peculiarly disgusting manner. r4ea9tt MC W«r. pp. 3S6-3S7. ed- >729- 43 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. pay dearer for anything than it was worth. This day we '^^' had marched 6 mile. In the evening the Husbands of those women came home, and told us in broken Spanish, that they had been on board of the Guard Ship, which we fled from two days before, that we were now not above 3 mile from the mouth of the River Congo, and that they could go from thence aboard the Guard Ship in half a Tides time. This evening we supped plentifully on Fowls, and Pecary ; a sort of wild Hogs which we bought of the Indians ; Yams, Potatoes, and Plantains served us for Bread, whereof we had enough. After Supper we agreed with one of these Indians to guide us a days march into the Country, towards the North side ; he was to have for his pains a Hatchet, and his bargain was to bring us to a certain Indians habitation, who could speak Spanish, from whom we were in hopes to be better satisfied of our Journey. The 3d day having fair weather, we began to stir betimes, and set out between 6 and 7 a clock, marching through several old ruined Plantations. This morning one of our Men being tired gave us the slip. By 12 a clock we had gone 8 mile, and arrived at the Indians house, who lived on the bank of the River Congo, and spake very good Spanish ; to whom we declared the reason of this Visit. At first he seemed to be very dubious of entertaining any discourse with us, and gave very impertinent answers to the questions that we demanded of him ; he told us he knew no way to the North side of the Country, but could carry us to Cheapo, or Santa Maria, which we knew to be Spanish Garrisons ; the one lying to the Elastward of us, the other to the Westward : either of them at least 20 miles out of our way. We could get no other answer from him, and all his discourse was in such an angry tone, as plainly declared he was not our friend. However, we were forced to make a virtue of necessity, and humour him, for it was neither time nor place to be angry with the Indians; all our lives lying in their hand. We were now at a great loss, not knowing what course 44 HVS OF AMERICA' Buice, for wc tempted him wiih Beads, Money, Hatchets, btchcats, or long Knives; but nothing would work on ' , till one of our men took a Sky-cloured Petticoat out f his hag and put it on his Wife ; who was so much 1 with the Present, that she immediately began to latter to her Husband, and soon brought him into a Eftcr humour. He could then tell us that he knew the Rjr 10 the North side, and would have gone with us, but I he had cut his foot 2 days before, which made him apkble of serving us himself: But he would take care 1 wc should not want a guide ; and therefore he hired t SMK Indian who brought us hither, to conduct us [Idij^ march further for another Hatchet. The old man 1 have stayed us here all the day, because it rained ' hard ; but our business required more haste, our I lying so near us, for he told us that he could t from his house aboard the Guard Ship in a Tides ; and this wa? the 4th day since they saw us.' So e lurched 3 miles farther, and then built Hutts, where kmyed all Night; it rained all the Afternoon, and the aiat j«rt of the Night. The 4th Day wc began our March betimes, for the Venoons were commonly fair, but much Rain Afternoon: pD* whether it rained or shined it was much at one with t,for I verily believed we crosi the Rivers 30 times this y: the Indians having no Paths to travel from one part 'the Country' to another; and therefore guided them- l by the Rivers. We marched this Day 12 Miles, I then built our Hutts, and lay down to sleep; but t always kept two Men on the Watch; otherwise our I Shvcs might have knockt us on the head while we rained violently all the afternoon, and most night. We had much ado to kindle a 6rc ing : our Hutts were but very mean or ordinary, P4rc small, so that we could not dry our Cloaths, E warm our selves, and no sort of Kood for the Belly ; fwhich made it very hard with us. I confess these hard- CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. ships quite expel I'd the thoughts of an Enemy, for now '^* having been 4 days in the Country, we began to have but few other cares than how to get Guides and Food, the Spaniards were seldom in our thoughts. The 5th day we set out in the morning betimes, and having travelled 7 miles in those wild pathless Woods, by 10 a clock in the morning we arrived at a young Spanish Indian's House, who had formerly lived with the Bishop of Panama. The young Indian was very brisk, spoke very good Spanish, and received us very kindly. This Plantation afforded us store of Provision, Yams, and Potatoes, but nothing of any Flesh, besides 2 fat Monkeys we shot, part whereof we distributed to some of our Com- pany, who were weak and sickly ; for others we got Eggs, and such refreshments as the Indians had, for we still provided for the sick and weak. We had a Spanish Indian in our company, who first took up Arms with Captain Sawkins, and had been with us ever since his Death. He was jxTSwaded to live here by the master of the house, who promised him his Sister in marriage, and to be assistant to him in clearing a Plantation: but we would not consent to part from him here, for fear of some treachery, but promised to release him in two or three days, when we were certainly out of danger of our Enemies. We stayed here all the Afternoon, and dried our Cloaths and Ammunition, cleared our Guns, and provided our selves for a march the next morning. Our Chirurgeon, Mr Wafer, came to a sad disaster here: being drying his Powder,^ a careless fellow passed by with his Pipe lighted, and set fire to his Powder; which blew up and scorched his Knee; and reduced him to that Condition, that he was not able to march ; where- fore we allowed him a Slave to carry his things, being ail of us the more concerned at the accident, because liable our selves every moment to misfortune, and none to look 1 " I was sitting on the Ground, near one of our Men, who was drying of jrun powder, in a Silver Plate : But not managing it as he should, it blew up and scorch'd my Knee to that Degree, that the Bone was left bare, the Flesh being torn away, and my Thigh burnt for a great Way above it •' (Wafer). 46 OVER THE ISTHMUS OF AMERICA after us but him. This Indian Plantation was scatcj on the bank of the River Congo, in a very fat Soil, and thus " far we might have come in our Canoa, if I could have persuaded them to it. The 6th day wc set out again, having hired another guide. Here we first crost the River Congo in a Canoa, having been from our first Landing on the West side of the River, and being over, we marched to the Eastward 2 miles, and came to another River, which wc forded several times, though it was very deep. Two of our Men' were not able to keep company with us, but came after us as they were able. The last time wc forded the River, it was so deep, that our tallest Men stood in the deepest place, and handed the sick, weak and short Men ; by which means wc all got over safe, except those two who were behind. Foreseeing a necessity of wading through Rivers frequently in our Land-march, I took care before I left the Ship to provide my self a large Joint of Bambo, which I stopt at both ends, closing it with Wax, so as to keep out any Water. In this I preserved my Journal and other Writings from being wet, tho' 1 was often forced to swim. When we were over this River, we sat down to wait the coming of our Consorts who were left behind, and in half an hour they came. But the River by that time was so high, that they could not get over it, neither could we help them over, but bid them be of good comfort and stay till the River did fall; But wc marched 2 mile farther by the side of the River, and there built our Hutts, having gone this day 6 miles. Wc had scarce finished our Hutts, before the River rose much higher, and overflowing the Banks, obliged us to remove into higher ground : But the next night came on before we could build more Hutts, so we lay straggling in the Woods, some under one Tree, some under another, as we could find conveniency, which might have been indifferent comfortable if the weather had been fair; hut the greatest part of the night we had extra- ordinary hard Rain, with much Lightening and terrible ' Robert .Spratlin and William Downuui. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. claps of Thunder. These hardships and inconveniencies '^****' made us all careless, and there was no Watch kept, (tho' I believe nobody did sleep :) So our Slaves taking oppor- tunity, went away in the night; all but one, who was hid in some hole and knew nothing of their design, or else fell asleep. Those that went away, carried with them our Chirurgcons Gun ^ and all his Money. The next morning being the 8th day, we went to the Rivers side, and found it much fallen ; and here our Guide would have us ford it again, which being deep, and the current running swift, we could not. Then we contrived to swim over ; those that could not swim, we were resolved to help over as well as we could : But this was not so feizable : for we should not be able to get all our things over. At length we concluded to send one Man over with a Liiu\ who should hale over all our things first, and then ixot the Men over. This being agreed on, one George (vuyny took the end of a Line and made it fast about his Neck, and left the other end ashore, and one Man stood by the Line, to clear it away to him. But when Gayny was in the midst of the water, the Line in drawing after him chanced to kink or grow entangled ; and he that stood by to clear it away, stopt the Line, which turned Gayny on his back, and he that had the Line in his hand threw it all into the River after him, thinking he might recover him- self; but the stream running very swift, and the Man having three hundred Dollars at his back, was carried down, and never seen more by us. Those two Men whom we left behind the day before, told us afterwards that they found him lying dead in a Creek, where the Eddy had driven him ashore, and the Money on his back; but they meddled not with any of it, Ixiing only in care how to work their way through a wild unknown Country. This put a jXM-iod to that contrivance. This was the fourth Man that we lost in this Luid-Journy ; for those two Men that we * The (iiinirj'coii was, of course, Lionel Wafer. A slave hail been allotted him *Mt> rarry my Mtnlirines/' but, in the nijjht, **hc ti^ok them all aw.iy with him t«»>irtlKT with the rost of my Thinj;s ; and thereby left me ilrpiivM of whorewiihal to dress my Sore." 48 ■ OVER THE ISTHMUS OF AMERICA left the day before did not come to us till we were in the . North Seas, so we yielded them also for Inst. Being ' frustrated of getting over the River this way, wc looked about for a Tree to fell across the River. At length wc found one, which we cm down, and it reached clear over : on this we passed to the other side, where wc found a small Plantain walk, which we soon ransackt. While we were busy getting Plantains, our Guide was gone, hut in less than two hours came to us again, and brought with him an old Indian, to whom he delivered up his charge ; and we gave him a Hatchet and dismist him, and entered our selves under the conduct of our new guide: who immediately led us away, and crost another River, and entered into a large Valley of the fattest land 1 did ever take notice of; the Trees were not very thick, but the largest that I saw in all my travels; We saw great tracks, which were made by the Pccaries, but saw nunc of *em. We marched in this pleasant Country till 3 a clock in the afternoon, in all about 4 Miles, and then arrived at rhe old mans Country-house, which was only a habitation for Hunting : there was a small Plantain walk, some Yams, and Potatoes. Here we took up our quarters fur this day, and Refreshed our selves with such food as the place afforded, and dryed our Cloaths and Ammunition. At this place our young Spanish Indian provided to leave us, for now we thought our selves past danger. This was he that was perswaded to stay at the last house we came from, to marry the young Man's Sister; and we dismissed him accoriling to our promise. The 9th day the old Man conducted us towards his ■ )wn habitation. Wc marched about 5 miles in this Valley ; and then ascended a Hill, and travelled about 5 miles farther over two or three smalt Hills, before we came to any settlement. Half a mile before wc came to the Plantations we light of a path, which carried us to the Indians habitations. We saw many wooden Crosses erected in the way, which created some jealousy in us that here were some Spaniards; Therefore we new primed all our Guns, and provided our selves for an Enemy ; but coming L VOL. t. 49 D CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. into the Town found none but Indians, who were all got *^* together in a large House to receive us : for the old man had a little boy with him, that he sent before. They made us welcome to such as they had, which was very mean ; for these were new Plantations, the Corn being not eared. Potatoes, Yams, and Plantains, they had none, but what they brought from their old Plantations. There was none of them spoke good Spanish : Two young Men could speak a little, it caused us to take more notice of them. To these we made a present, and desired them to get us a Guide to conduct us to the North side, or part of the way, which they promised to do themselves, if we would reward them for it, but told us we must lye still the next day. But we thought our selves nearer the North Sea than we were, and proposed to go without a Guides rather than stay here a whole day : However some of our men who were tired resolved to stay behind; and Mr. Wafer our Chirurgeon, who marched in great pain ever since his Knee was burned with powder, was resolved to stay with them. The tenth day we got up betimes, resolving to march, but the Indians opposed it as much as they could, bat seeing they could not perswade us to stay, they came with us; and having taken leave of our friends, we set out. Here therefore we left the Chirurgeon and two more,^ as we said, and marched away to the Eastward following our Guides. But we often look'd on our Pocket Com- passes, and shewed them to the Guides, pointing at the way that we would go, which made them shake their Heads, and say, they were pretty things, but not convenient for us. After we had descended the Hill on which the Town stood we came down into a Valley, and guided our selves by a River, which we crossed 32 times ; and having marched 9 miles, we built Huts and lay there all night: Tlus evening I killed a Quaum, a large Bird as big as a Turkey, * Mr. Richard Gopson, or Cobson, "an ingenious Man, and a good Scholar," and John Hingson, mariner, were the two men who stayed with Wafer. SO / OVER THE ISTHMUS OF AMERICA for brought ' wherewith wc treated our ' Provision with us. This night our last Slave run away. The eleventh day we marched ro mile farther, and built Hutts at night ; but went suppcrlcss to bed. The twelfth in the morning wc crossed a deep River, passing over it on a Tree, and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground ; and came to the side of a great deep River, but could not get over. We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there ail night, upon our Barbecu's, or frames of Slicks, raised about 3 foot from the ground. The thirteenth day, when wc turned out, the River had ovcrflowd its Banks, and was J foot deep in our Hutts, and our Guides went from us, not telling us their intent, which made us think they were returned home again. Now wc began to repent our haste in coming from the last Settlements, for wc had no food since we came from thence. Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place, wherewith wc satisfied our selves this day though coursly. The fourteenth day in the morning betimes, our Guides came to us again; and the Waters being fallen within their bounds, they carry 'd us to a Tree that stcKxl on the Bank of the River, and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it, we might pass ; if not, we could pass no farther. Therefore wc set two of the best Ax-men that we had, who fell'd it exactly cross the River, and the boughs just reached over; on this we passed very safe. We afterwards crossed another River three times, with much difficulty, and at 3 a clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement, where we met a drove of Monkeys, and killed 4 of them, and stayed here all night, having marched this day 6 miles. Here we got Plantains enough, and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone, except one Boy to wait on him. The fifteenth day when we set out, the kind Indian and his Boy went with us in a Canoa, and set us over such places as wc could not ford: and being past those great Rivers, he returned back again, having helped us at least 2 mile, Wc marched afterwards 5 mile, and came to large 51 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Plantain walks, where we took up our quarters that night ; i^Hi ^,^ there fed plentifully on Plantains, both ripe and green, and had fair weather all the day and night. I think these were the largest Plantain-walks, and the biggest Plantuns that ever I saw, but no house near them : We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders. The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile, and came to a large settlement, where we abode all day: Not a Man of us but wisht the Journey at an end ; our Feet being blistered, and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers ; the way being almost continually through Rivers, or pathless Woods. In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game, and kill'd 3 Monkeys, which we drcst for Supper. Here we first began to have fur weather, which continued with us till we came to the North Seas. The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock, and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River; and when we landed, the kind Indians went with us and carried Dur burthens. We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts, having travelled from the last settlements (} miles. The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way, and we did not march above 2 miles. The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River. The Rivers we crost hitherto run all into the South Seas ; and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way. Here an old man who came from the last settlements, distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us, and taking his leave returned home. Afterward we forded the River, and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain, where we lay all night. This day we marched about 9 miles. The 2 1st day some of the Indians returned back, and we marched up a very high Mountain ; being on the top, we went some miles on a ridge, and steep on both sides; then descended a little, and came to a fine Spring, where we lay all night, having gone this day about 9 miles, the weather still very fair and clear. 52 ■ ARRIVAL AT THE NORTH SEAS The 22d day wc marched over another very high Mountain, keeping on the ridge 5 miles. When we came ' to the North end, we, to our great comfort, saw the Sea; then we descended ; and parted our selves into 3 Com- panies, and lay by the side of a River, which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea. The 23d day we came through several lai^e Plantain walks, and at lO a Dock came to an Indian habitation, not far from the North Sea. Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception tn the Sea side ; having gone this day about 7 miles. We found a great many Indians at the mouth of the River. They had settled themselves here for the benefit of Trade with the Privateer* ; and their Commodities were Yams, Potatoes, Plantains, Sugar, Canes, Fowls, and Eggs. The Indians told us, that there had been a great many English and French ships here, which were all gone but i>ne Barcolongo,' a French Privateer that lay at La Sounds Key or Island. This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception,^ and is one of the Samballoes, a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues, from point Samballas to Golden Island Eastward. These Islands or Keys, as we call them, were first made the Rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1 679.' being very convenient for careening, and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers; as this La Sounds Key' particularly. Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days; in which time by my account we travelled iio miles, crossing some very high Mountains; ' liatcolon^o ; an undecked long-boat, with two or three masts. They are generally rigged with lug or lateen sails. The rorcmast has a marked foTward rake, and the greatest beam is well afi. • To tlie west of the Coquera I'oim. ' This is an error. Francis Drake made his rendeivous amnng them in 1 572-3, while on his Nomhre de Dios raid. John Oxenham hid his ship among them a year or two later, They were loo " convenient " for people of that way of life, and they were probably tenanted iliroughoui the first half of (he seventeenth century- ' La Sounds Key is not now to he identified. An untrustworthy chart of 1697 places ii a littio to the cast of the Klo Concepcion. I am inclined to idcAti^ it with the present Cayo Piedras. 53 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. but our common march was in the Valleys among dc^ '^' and dangerous Rivers. At our first landing in tha Country, we were told that the Indians were our Enemies;^ we knew the Rivers to be deep, the wet season to be coming in; yet, excepting those we left behind, we lost but one Man, who was drowned, as I said. Our first landing place on the South Coast was very disadvanta- gcous, for we travelled at least fifty miles more than m, need to have done, could we have gone up Cheapo Riven or Santa Maria River ; for at either of these Places a Mm may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease. Thr Indians can do it in a day and a half, by which you may sec how easy it is for a party of Men to travel over. I must confess the Indians did assist us very much, and I question whether ever we had got over without thdr' aj^stanoe, because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations, where we always got Provision, which el^" we should have wanted. But if a party of 500, or, ^c^? Men, or more, were minded to travel from the Nortld :v> the South Seas, they may do it without asking leave of' :hc Indians ; tho' it be much better to be friends with them. On :hc 24th of May, (having lain one night at the K:xvrs mouth) we all went on board the Privateer, whoj li\ it La Sounds Key. It was a French Vessel, Captun rrls:u:i Commander. The first thing we did was to get su^h :hln^ as we could to gratifie our Indian Guides, for >\'C ^VvTc resolved to reward them to their hearts content. Vh-s wc viivi by gi\nng them Beads, Knives, Scissars, and 1 *vk;:*.*l-j:Iasscs, which we bought of the Privateers Crew: A:vi hilt a Hollar a Man from each of us; which we >^o;;*x: hAvc bcstowc\i in Goods also, but could not get a:\\, :hc IVi\-atcer having no more toys. They were so wvll sAtisticN: with these^ that they returned with joy to t>.o*,r tvton.is; And were very kind to our Consorts whom wv )ctt Iv^hind ; as Mr. Wafer* our Chyrurgeon and the * W.itri jrnu;ncv? .unoti}; the Imiians for several months, during which he it^%rutsi *^-x»nc h%>:uv,»-s. an*! ihc promise of the hand of an Indian piimvvx. \\c }^^> M 1-a Sounds Key when Dampier arrived there at the i,titci rnd ol AtiisuNt iN?i. ,itier a cruise atong the Main. The other four MHj:j5lci-N Hrir ihcir xuih hun. When Wafer went aboard the privateer, 54 #k h; ^ CtTtcs TsitJ A I ARRIVAL AT THE NORTH SEAS Bit of them told us, when they came to us some months an. fterwards as shall be said hereafter. "^' I might have given a further account of several things Uating to this Country ; the Inland parts of which are ft Bttle known to the Europeans, But I shall leave this !lwvinoc to Mr. Wafer, who made a longer abode in it Ittn I ; and is better able to do it than any Man that I Bow, and is now preparing a particular Description of in Country for the Press. Lrhia kmg U*y Among the Indians, he was "painted as they were," Ijte cnMoBMiy "red, yellow and blue, very bright and lovely." He was JK'all aalced bui only about the Waist," and had a "Nose-niece," of ■ gold, fasaring over his mouth. "'Twas the belter part of an Hour ■• aoe of tbe Craw, loddag more narrowly upon me cr/d out /iere's ( CHAP. Ill The ./ar^yr'i cruising with the Privateers in the North Seas w At // V' the't'y the Soldier Insect, and Aianchaneel Tree, The River jt IXi^-len, and the Wild Indians near it; Monastery of Maire ii iV«\ Ri: Grande, Santa Martha Town, and the high Mountain there ; Ki: la Hacha Town, Rancho Reys, and Pearl Fishery tht'e : the Indian Inhabitants and Country » Dutch Isle ef 0:%iri>a\ &c. C:unt D*Estree*s unfortunate Expedition thither. /».V /r' B:'t Jiry. Isle of /Ives, the Booby and Man of War li:*d: The If'reck of D'Estree's Fleet, and Captain Pain's Ai- i '.•;::.'« here. Little Isle of Aves. The Isle Roca*s, the Noddy ,rt.i 7%v^Ac B:'\i, Mineral Water, Egg Birds; the Mangrwe '/*•«■. .«, hlack^ redy and white. Isle of Tortuga, its Salt Ponds. Isle ,-' R'i.i»v ; the Guano Animal, their Variety; and the best Sea 7'-" .'.•;.•«■, M.\itrn Alterations in the West Indies. The Coast oj (\.»,;,VJiS it> rt":i;rka!'le Land, and Product of the best Cacao Nuts, The (.\.\.;; deyKrii'td at large with the Husbandry of it. City .'f (.\.»m\v.->. La Guaire Fort and Haven. Town of Comana, l\*l*ui^it> fa**i:u> ivit Sf'anish Tobacco. The rich Trade of thi C\i>t :t Ca*\u\:i. Of the Sucking Fish, or Remora. Thi . Ih th:r*y Arrii. 'a I in I ir^inia . IIK Privateer on board which we went being now cleaned, and our Indian Guides thus satisfy *d and set ashore, we set sail in two days for Springer's Key,^ another of the Samballoes Isles, and about * Springer's Key lay a little to the N\V. of La Sounds Key. Perhaps Cayo Ini;lcs, perhaps Isla I'uyadas. S6 PRIVATEERS IN THE NORTH SEAS Here lay 8 sail of ait" t68i English Commanders and Englishmen. 7 or 8 leagues from La Sound's Key. Privateers more, viz. Capt, Coxon,' lO Guns, lOO Men. Capt. Payne, lo Guns, too Men. &p,. Wrigh,, ] ^ ^^ a Barcolongo, J ^ ' ^ Capt. Williams, a small Barcolongo. Capt. Yankes, a Barcolongo, 4 Guns, about 60 Men, English, Dutch, and French; himself a Dutchman, apt. Archemboc 8 Guns, 40 Men, 1 p„„eh Commander, apt, fucker 6 Gun,, 70 Men. ,„j „^„ Capt. Kosc, a barcolongo. ' An hour before we came to the Fleet, Captain Wright, who had been sent to Chagra* River, arrived at Springers Key, with a large Canoa or Pcrcago laden with Flower, which he took there. Some of the Prisoners belonging to the Periago, came from Panama not above 6 days before he took her, and lold the news of our coming over land, and like-wise related the condition and strength of Panama, which was the main thing they enquired after ; for Captain Wright was sent thither purposely to get a Prisoner that was able to inform thetn of the strength of that City, because these Privateers designed to join all their force, and by the assistance of the Indians, (who had promised to L be their Guides) to march over land to Panama ; and there " i no other way of getting Prisoners for that purpose, but ■by absconding between Chagra and PortabcU, because there ■Are much Goo) be liad been cruising DlTthe Mnin. Clingra. The Chngres River, emptying into the North Sea a liiilc B wrst of Colon. The galleons which conveyed the treasure from Porto Bello to Spain. pier tells of ibcir periudical visits to the Isthmus in bis seventh chapter. 57 to - afc .w, -iiii^ ^9^ But iiiimrf'Mtrly toiee 3^ in ^ - ^i^ iaiTiaraz at us iifV-uT 13 be I r- ■ :j:^^> * rrr ^su. rr tl ziu Cj:kc COD ■ Li ■rr-'r^ir - -< t^-'ss'^ic r: rr. _ i_ . ^ ..■&.. MiB «. * . lw^« w^S >li ^^« ■ »i— »C»S I :r :-. n -j::: f Tx:-:ir:.r :. vi -^ vitrr * i-Tvi 2:'»' tie Look- 'JlVt STt "T-I-It:! • ■■• rei^-iT 7»n?i; ?•«£ :.' XTTlC I^«5 1 -.-i'-vvti ' **« ' % « THE PRIVATEERS* INTELUGENCE 1 if tbey have lud any former discourse of such places an. I other Prisoners, they compare one with the other; '"* n examine agun, and enquire if he or any of them are ■ c to be Guides to conduct a party of men thither : if not, where and how any Prisoner may be taken that may do a ; and from thence they afterwards Uy their Schemes i 10 prosecute whatever design they take in hand. It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was T yet consultations were held every day. The French 1 very forward to go to any Town that the English I or would propose, because the Governour of Petit BiTOj' (from whom the Privateers take Commissions) i recommended a Gentleman lately come from France to k General of the Expedition, and sent word by Captain Ttidur, with whom this Gentleman came, that they should, ii poaable, make an attempt on some Town before he wnm'd again. The English, when they were in company with the French, scem'd to approve of what the French laid, but never look'd on that General to be fit for the nee in band. At length it was concluded to go to a Town,' the : of which I have forgot ; it lies a great way in the inlry, but not such a tedious march as it would be from e to Panama. Our way to it lay up Carpenter's River,' ■Uch b about 6o leagues to the westward of Portabel. Our g re a tes t obstruction in this design was our want of Boao: therefore It was concluded to go with all our Fleet ^B S(. Andreas, a small uninhabited Island lying near the ^Hk oi* Providence/ to the Westward of it, in 13 deg. ^^P AsMhtr naoM for Tortuga, a small island to tbe NW. of Hispnniola, ^^■iB thminita ^^P Tie early «fi«>OM call the town CoretaKa : " A Town called Cor^faj^t, ^^bk Ttnra lictb a Hreai Way in ilie Country." Probably CotUko, in MLf^p N, lon«. 86.1S W. • Ckrpentci'* River. Ihe Rio Rnsentaxon, or Rio Pacuar in Cosia Rica. :i m IcM dun tlity Icagoes ftnm Porlnbclln, but Dampier gives the distance u> W tnseneil by buau huK^ng [he shore. * C>r Senu Kaioliu. li lies in lai. 13' 14' N., and about 3:0 miles from 'Utpcata*'* River, Muif an (aflenranis Sir Henry) had designed to plant » lieczaaacr cnlonj upon tlic iiland ; but the death of his ally Mansvelt, tad. baa, the cnforccmeni of the Treaty of America, compelled him to Lichone. The island was generally called Old Providence to CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. 1 5 Min, North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. iboat i(>8i -^o leagues; where we should be but a little way from Carpenter*s River. And besides, at this Island we ought build Canoas, it being plentifully stored with large Cechn for such a purpose ; and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops ; Cedar being very tit for building) and it being to be had here at free-cost; beside other Wood. Jamaica is well stored with Cedars of its own, chiefly among the Rocky Mountains: these also of St. Andreas grow in stony ground, and are the lai^est that ever I knew or heard of; the Bodies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long) many 60 or 70, and upwards, and of a proportionable bigness. The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them ; so is Virginia, which is generally a sandy Seal. I saw notie in the East Indies, nor in the South Sea Coast, except i>n the Isthmus as I came over it. We reckon the IViYiiiro's and Canoa's that are made of Cedar to be the Ivst of any ; they are nothing but the Tree it self made holK^w Boatwise, with a flat bottom, and the Canoa i^enerallv sharp at both ends, the Pereago at one only, with the i^her end flat. But what is commonly said of Cedar, that the Worm will not touch it, is a mistake, for I have seen of it vcrv much worm-eaten. All things l^ing thus concluded on, we sailed from hei\ce» direv tinij; our course towards St. Andreas. We kept con\pai\y the first day, but at night it blew a hard gale at N. M. anvl some of our Ships bore away: the next day others were torcevl to leave us, and the second night we lost all luir cotnpany. I was now belonging to Captain .\rcheinK>» for all the rest of the Fleet were overmanned: i.'apiaii\ Archembo wanting Men, we that came out of the South S^Ms must either sail with him, or remain among the li\viians. Indeed we found no Cause to dislike the Captain ; but his iMench Seamen were the saddest Creatures that ever I was an\ong ; for tho' we had bad weather that re- i|uirM mai\y I latuls aloft, yet the biggest part of them diMin>:uish it Irom an islaml of the suimc name in the Bahama group. Si. Amlicis lies in about Kit. 12** 34' N., some 20 miles to the west of S.ini.i Kaialina. 60 THE PRIVATEERS SEPARATE iver stirred out of their Hammocks, but to cat or case ^Emselves. We made a shift to find the Island the fourth ly, where we met Captain Wright, who came thither the lay before, and had uken a Spanish Tartan.' wherein were 30 Men, all well armed : She had 4 Patercnjcs,' and some long Guns plac'd in the Swivel on the Gunnel. They fought an hour before they yielded. The News they re- lated was, that they came from Cartagena in company of II Armadilloes (which are small Vessels of War) to seek for the Fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambalnes: That they parted from the Armadilloes 2 Days before : That they were ordered to search the Sambaloes for us, and if they did not find us, then they were ordered to go to Purtabcil, and lay there till they had farther intelligence of us ; and he supposed these Armadilloes to be now there. We that came over Land out of the South Seas being weary of living among the French, desired Captain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan, and make a Man of War of her for us, which he at first seemed to decline, because he was settled among the French in Hispaniola, and was very well beloved both by the Govcrnour of Petit Guavos, and all the Gentry ; and they would resent it ill, that Captain Wright, who had no occasion of Men, should Ik- so unkind to Captain Archembo, as to seduce his Men from him ; he being so meanly manned that he could hardly ^ail his Ship with his Frenchmen. We tnld him we would no longer remain with Captain Archembo, but would go ashore there, and build Canoas to transport our selves down to the Moskitoes, if he would not entertain us ; for Privateers are not obliged to any Ship, but free to go ashore where they please, or to go into any other Ship that will entertain them, only paying for their Provision. When Captain Wright saw our resolutions, he agreed ivith us on condition we should be under his command, as urie Ships company, to which we unanimously consented. n was a swifi coasting traft rigged with ii 1 and howsprii, a which were set a lafge lateen sail and n small jib. The proid.o, of the Mediterranean, is her modern e~:li their paddle; because it is a Creature "■■it hears vcrj- well. But they arc not so '■£ when they seek for Tortoise, whose i m are better than his Ears. They strike "-C TortcNse with a square sharp Iron Peg, ■■; other with a Harpoon. The Moskito- ■ ^ make their own striking Instruments, _^ Harpoons, Fish-hooks, and Tortoise-Irons or Pegs. Ir>e Pcgi, or Tortoise- Irons are made 4 square, sharp toe end, and not much above an inch in length, of t s figure as you sec in the Margin. The small spike 67 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. at the broad end hath a line fastened to it, and goes also '^^' into a hole at the end of the Striking staff; which when the Tortoise is struck flies off, the Iron and the end of the line fastned to it, going quite within the Shell, where it is so buried that the Tortoise cannot possibly escape. They make their Lines both for Fishing and Striking with the bark of Maho ; which is a sort of Tree or ShruD that grows plentifully all over the West Indies, and whose Bark is made up of strings, or threads, very strong. You may draw it off either in flakes or small threads, as you have occasion. 'Tis fit for any manner of Cordage ; and Privateers often make their Rigging of it. So much by way of digression. When we had clean'd our Tartane we sailed from hence, bound for Boca-toro, which is an opening between 2 Islands about lo Deg. lo Min. North Lat. between the Rivers of Verague and Chagre. Here we met with Captain Yanky, who told us that there had been a Fleet of Spanish Armadilloes to seek us : That Captain Tristian having fallen to Leeward,^ was coming to Boca-toro, and fell in amongst them, supposing them to be our Fleet : That they fired and chased him, but he rowed and towed, and they supposed he got away : That Capt. Pain was likewise chaced by them and Capt. Williams ; and that they had not seen them since; That they lay within the Islands: That the Spaniards never came in to him ; and that Captain Coxon was in at the Careening place. This Boca-toro is a place that the Privateers use to resort to, as much as any place on all the Coast, because here is plenty of green Tortoise, and a good Careening place. The Indians here have no commerce with the Spaniards; but are very barbarous, and will not be dealt with. They have destroyed many Privateers, as they did not long after this some of Captain Pain's men; who having built a Tent ashore to put his goods in while he Careened his Ship, and some men lying there with their 1 To the eastward, in this instance. 68 )INT SAMBALLAS, AND ITS ISLANDS irmi, in the night the Indians crept softly into the Tent, cut off the Heads of 3 or 4 men, and made their ipc; nor was this the first time they had served the Trivitccrs so. There grow on this Coast Vineiloes' in peit quantity-, with which Chocolate is perfumed. These lihill describe elsewhere. Our Fleet being thus scattered, there were now no kopo of getting tt^ether again ; therefore every one did wbi they thought most conducing to obtain their ends. Gfitain Wright, with whom I now was, was resolved to oiffle on the Coast of Cartagene ; and it being now almost the Westerly wind season,' we sailed from hence, and Captain Yanky with us; and we consorted, because Captain Vialty had no commission, and was afraid the French •ouW take away his Bark. We past by Scuda," a small l^d (where 'tis said Sir Francis Drake's bowels were Wy'd) and came to a small River to Westward of Chagrc ; vikre we took two new Canoas, and carry'd them with us wo the Simbalocs. We had the Wind at West, with •uch Rain ; which brought us to Point-Samba I las. Here Gpuin Wright and Captain Yanky left us in the Tartane, 10 fix the Canoas, while they went on the Coast of Cm^ne to seek for provision. We cruised in among die lilands, and kept our Moskito-men, or strikers, out, 'a brooght aboard some half-grown Tortoise; and some ^^ uc went ashore every day to hunt for what we could kd in the Woods : Sometimes we got Peccary, Warree, or Bttr; at other times we light on a drove of large fat Hookcys, or ^uames,* Corrosocs,' (each a large sort of n\) Pidgeons, Parrots, or Turtle-doves. We Hv'd very * Vaoillm. * Sec the Discourse of Winds, chap, iii, * Or Scndi^ a toull istuicl near the entrance to foriobello, Drake 4 af dpcntery in fortobcllo harbour. His liody was buried at sea hide ttc bubour, tnjt there is a wide)}' spread belief that his heart >bnn«il n> Ihe island. The island is sometimes called El Draque, Dnk^s IiIamL il was certainly associated with him. Charles Fili- fey, (ha aBthaff of the [loetkal panegyric upon Drake, first published 1(99, only ihice ycats After the death of Drake, alludes tu it in hia ' Qmtat, a (nnt-eatin|t bird, with duncoiourcd wings and stumpy tail, !■& * Curassow, a sort of wild turkey. 6j CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. well on what we got, not staying long in one place ; but *^^' sometimes we would go on the Islands, where there grow great Groves of Sapadillies, which is a sort of Fruit much like a Pear, but more juicy ; and under those Trees we found plenty of Soldiers,' a little kind of Animals that live in Shells and have two great Claws like a Crab, and are good food. One time our men found a great many large ones, and being sharp>-set had them drest, but most of them were very sick afterwards, being poisoned by them : For on this Island were many Manchaneel " Trees, whose Fruit is like a small Crab, and smells very well, but they are not wholesome ; and we commonly take care of meddling with any Animals that eat them. And this we take for a general rule,' when we find any Fruits that we have not seen before, if we see them peck'd by Birds, we may freely eat, but if we see no such sign, we let them alone ; for of this fruit no Birds will taste. Many of these Islands have of these Manchaneel-Trees growing on them. Thus cruising in among these Islands, at length we came again to La Sound's Key ; and the day before having met with a Jamaica Sloop that was come over on the Coast to trade, she went with us. It was in the evening when we came to an Anchor, and the next morning we fired two Guns for the Indians that lived on the Main to come aboard ; for by this time we concluded we should hear from our five men, that we left in the heart of the Country among the Indians, this being about the latter end of August, and it was the beginning of May when we parted from them. According to our expectation the Indians came aboard, and brought our friends with them : Mr. Wafer wore a Clout about him, and was painted like an Indian ; and he was some time aboard before I knew him. One of them, named Richard Cobson, dyed within 3 or 4 day's after, and was bury'd on La Sound's Key. After this we went to other Keys, to the Eastward of these, to meet Captain Wright and Captain Yanky, who * Soldier crabs, so called ** because of the colour," which is reddish. ' Man(,'anilla. It has a fniit like a yellow-gfreen crab apple. ^ Wafer and Sir Pichard Hawkins lay down similar rules.* 70 WILD INDIANS •X with a Fleet of Percagoes laden with Indian Corn, a^ Hog, and Fowls, going tn Cartagene ; being convoyed by %«R«I1 Amiadilly' of 2 Guns and 6 Patererocs. Her they duced ashore, and most of the Pereagoes; but they got Iwn of them off, and brought them away. Here Captain Wright's and Captain Yanky's Barks woe dcan'd ; and wc stock'd our selves with Com, and ihen went towards the Coast of Cartagene. In our way itther we passed by the River of Darien ; ^ which is very itoti at the mouth, but not above six loot water on a Sonng-tide ; For the Tide riseth but little here. Captain uoon, about 6 months before we came out of the S«th Seas, wcm up this River with a party of Men : Ererv Man carry'd a small strong Bag to put his Gold in ; apecring great Riches there, tho' they got little or none. They rowol up about lOO leagues before they came to any itrtlenMmt, and then found some Spaniards, who lived there to tmek with the Indians for Gold ; there being Gold Sales in every house. The Spaniards admired how they ame to far from the mouth of the River, because there ire a sort of Indians living between that place and the Sea, •Hoifc very dreadful to the Spaniards, and will not have wj commerce with them, nor with any white people. They use Tninks about 8 foot long, out of which they Hrm poysoned Darts ; and are so silent in their attacks on tfcar Enemies, and retreat so nimbly again, that the Sputinls can never find them. Their Darts are made of Huaw-wood. being about the bigness and length of a Knitting-needle; one end is wound about with Cotton, Ae other end is extraordinary sharp and small ; and is jigged with notches like a Harpoon : So that whatever it Knkes into, it immediately breaks off, by the weight of Ik biggest end ; which it is not of strength to bear, (it Itieg tnade so slender for that purpose) and is very diffi- tili to be got out again, by reason of those notches. Thae Indians have always War with our Darien friendly Iniiatti, and live on both sides this great River 50 or 60 See Kingrosc. J CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. leagues from the Sea, but not near the mouth of the River. 1681 Xhere are abundance of Manatee in this River, and some Creeks belonging to it. This relation I had from several Men who accompany*d Captain Coxon in that discovery; and from Mr. Cook in particular, who was with them, and is a very intelligent person : He is now chief Mate of a Ship bound to Guinea. To return therefore to the pro- secution of our Voyage; meeting with nothing of note, we (^ssed by Cartagene ; which is a City so well known, that I shall say nothing of it. We sailed by in sight of it, for it lies open to the Sea : and had a fair view of Madre dc Popa, or Nuestra Sennora de Popa, a Monastery of the Virgin Mary's, standing on the top of a very steep hill just behind Cartagene.^ It is a place of incredible wealth, by reason of the offerings made here continually; and for this reason often in danger of being visited by the Privateers, did not the neighbourhood of Cartagene, keep them in awe. 'Tis in short, the very Loretto of the West Indies: It hath innumerable Miracles related of it. Any mis- fortune that befalls the Privateers is attributed to this Lady*s doing ; and the Spaniards rep>ort that she was abroad that night the Oxford^ Man of War was blown up at the Isle of Vacca ^ near Hisnaniola, and that she came home all wet ; as, belike, she often returns with her Cloaths dirty and torn with passing thro* Woods, and bad ways, when she has been out upon any expedition ; deserving doubtless a new suit for such eminent pieces of service. From hence we passed on to the Rio Grande,* where we took up fresh Water at Sea, a league off the mouth of * Cartagena (in the ])icscnt Republic of Colombia) was the most im- portant Spanish city on the northern coast. It is situated to the eastward of a capacious double harbour, or lagoon, in lat. lo* 25' N., long. 75.34' W. Drake sacked the town in 1585, in his I ndies Voyage ; but the hue- uinccrs never attempted it. The monastery of which Dampier speaks was ransomed by the S|)aniards at the time of Drake's raid. ' 'I'hc Oxford man-of-war was blown up between December 17, 1668, and January 14, 1669. She was a 34 -gun frigate (manned by 160 men) bound u]>on a cruise off Cartagena. Exqucmeling has distorted the story of her loss. ^ 'I'he Isle of Vacca, or La Vache, lies a few miles to the eastward of Cape (iravios, in the Tiburon Peninsula, Haytu * The Magdalcna. 72 SANTA-MARTHA— ITS HIGH LAND ihat River. From thence we sailed Eastward, passing by aw.' St Martha, a large Town, and good harbour, belonging '^*' '»th< Spaniards: yet hath it within these few years been ' uken by the Privateers. It stands close upon the 1, ind the Hill ' within land is a very large one, towering ipi great hcighth from a vast body of Land. I am of iwoa that it is higher than the Pike of Tenariff"; others othat have seen both think the same; the' its bigness ! its hcighth less sensible. I have seen it in passing V, 30 leagues off at Sea ; others, as they told me, above fe: and several have told me, that they have seen at once, Jinttica, Hispaniola, and the high Land of Santa Martha ; -ind yet the nearest of these two places is distant from it 120 ka^ocs ; and Jamaica, which is farthest off, is accounted r 150 leagues; and 1 question whether any Land on Dtbcr of those two Islands may be seen 50 leagues. It's head igaierally hid in (he Clouds ; but in clear weather, when Ac top api^iean, it looks white ; supposed to be covered mhSnow. St. Martha licth in the Lat. of 12 Deg. North. Being advanced 5 or 6 leagues to the Eastward of Snu Martha, wc left our Ships at Anchor, and return'd kd in our Canoa's to the River Grande ; entring it by a ■ogth'of it that disembogues itself near Santa Martha; lirpoBug to attempt some Towns that lye a pretty way up *Tit River.' Bui this design meeting with discourage- EDts,' wc rctum'd to our ships, and set sail to Rio la iariu.* This hath been a strong Spanish Town, and is til built; but being often taken by the Privateers, the paniards deserted it some time before our arrival. It "1 to the Westward of a River; and right against the ' By Admin) Goodlud in idSS ; by John Coxon in ifi77- ' Tfcr Stem Nevada. The peak is 16,700 feel hiKh. "The Pike of wif* is ahool i^flaa feci. ' SolDC Ifairtv mild tu the SSW. of ihe town, ' Dnfce made tl)c nme aUetnpt in 1 572- ' Matouilara and ciirrenls. Rio lie ta Hacha. Tfce eipcdiiion was wrecked on Desccheo Island, near mKiea. ' Ot d'EtU^CA Hb iqtudron consisted of 18 !>hi|is of war, and two aMv iliip*. Man)' baccitnecn cmbnrked in Itic inen>of-wUT ; so thai t matt kawe been at least four Ihousrind men engat-cil in the expedition, an iron thell filled with inflammables. 77 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. This Fleet iSirst came to Martinico; where, while they 1681 stay*d, orders were sent to Petit Guaves, for all Privateen to repair thither, and assist the Count in his design. There were but two Privateers Ships that went thither to lum, which were mann*d partly with French, partly with EnglislH men. These set out with the Count ; but in their wmy to Querisao, the whole Fleet was lost on a RifF or Ridge of Rocks, that runs off from the Isle of Aves ; ^ not above two Ships escaping, one of which was one of the Privateen; and so that design perished. Wherefore not driving a Bargain for our Sugar with the Governour of Querisao, we went from thence to Bon-Airy, another Dutch Island, where we met a Dutch Sloop come from Europe, laden with Irish Beef; which we bought b exchange for some of our Sugar. Bon-Airy is the Eastermost of the Dutch Islands, and is the largest of the three, tho* not the most considerable. The middle of the Island is laid down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main, and 9 or 10 from Querisao, and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round. The road is on the S. W. side, near the middle of the Island ; where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in. Ships that come from the Eastward luiF up close to the Eastern shore : and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water, within half a Cables length ^ of the shore. But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope, and make it fast ashore ; otherwise, when the Land-wind comes in the night, the Ship would drive off to Sea again ; for the Ground is so steep, that no Anchor can hold if once it starts. About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island, and a Channel between it and the main Island. The Houses are about half a mile within Land, right in the Road : There is a Governour lives here, a Deputy to the Governour of Querisao, and 7 or 8 Soldiers, with 5 or 6 Families of Indians. There is no Fort ; and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep, for » In lat. 1 1° 59' N., long. 67° 40' V^. • Or one hundred yards. 78 BOOBY AND MAN-OF-WAR BIRDS ihey never watch, but in time of War. The Indians are , Husband-men, and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn, and some ' Yams, and Potatoes : But their chicfcst business is about Cattle; for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats: and they send great quantities every year in Salt to^ucrisao. There are some Horses, and Bulls and Cows; but I never saw any Sheep, tho' I have been all over the Island. The South side is plain low Land, and there are several sorts of Trees, but none very large. There is a small Spring of Water by the Houses, which serves the inhabitants, tho* it is blackish. At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of fresh Water, and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there, but no Water nor Houses at any other place. On the South side near the East end, is a good Salt-pond, where Dutch Sloops come for Salt. From Bon Airy wc went to the Isle of Aves, or Birds ; so called from its great plenty of Birds, as Men-of-War' and Boobies;' but especially Boobies. The Booby is a Water- fowl, somewhat less than a Hen, of a light greyish colour. I observed the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others. This Bird hath a strong Bill, longer and bigger than a Crows, and broader at the end : her feet are flat like a Ducks feet. It is a very simple Creature, and will hardly go out of a Man's way. In other places they build their Nests on the Ground, but here they build on Trees; which 1 never saw any where else ; tho' 1 have seen of them in a great many places. Their F"lesh is black and cats fishy, but are often eaten by the Privateers. Their numbers have been much lessened by the French Fleet,' which was lost here, as I shall give an account. The Man-of-War (as it is called by the English) is about the bigness of a Kite, and in shape like it, but black ; and the neck is red. It lives on Fish, yet never lights on the Water, but soars aloft like a Kite, and when it sees its prey, it flies down head foremost to the Waters edge, very swiftly ' Han.ef.War bird : the frigate pelican, o (Lilary bird nf grent slrengtli and swiftness, » iloobies ; Sulafmcu. It is, as Uunipier ! ' Under Count d'Eslries, in 1678. : n i'eiecanus Aptilys. A prc- lys, ''a very simple Creature." CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES I ■I AN. takes its prey out of the Sea with its Bill, and immediately [ 1682 mounts again as swiftly ; and never touching the Water with ■[ his Bill. His Wings are very long, his Feet are like other Land fowl, and he builds on Trees, where he finds any; but where they are wanting, on the Ground. This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the East- ^ ward of the Island Bon- Airy, about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main, and about the lat. of 1 1 d. 45 m. North. It ii but small, not above 4 mile in length, and towards the Eait end not half a mile broad. On the North side it is low Land, commonly overflown with the Tide ; but on the South »de there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea. The West End is, for near a mile space, plain even Savannah Land, without any Trees. There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers, who often frequent this Island, because there is a good Harbour about the middle of it on the North side, where they may conveniently c^een. The Riff, or Bank of Rocks, on which the French Fleet was lost, as I mentioned above, runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile, then trends away to the West- ward, making as it were a Half-Moon. This RiflF breaks oflF all the Sea, and there is good Riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it. There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys, or Islands, within this RiflF, about 3 miles from the main Island. The Count d'Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner. Coming from the Eastward, he fell in on the back of the RiflF, and fired guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet : But they supposing their Admiral was en- gaged with Enemies, hoisted up their Topsails, and crouded all the Sails they could make, and ran full sail ashore after him ; all within half a mile of each other. For his light being in the Main-Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow ; and there escaped but one Kings-Ship, and one Privateer. The Ships continued whole all day, and the Men had time enough, most of them, to get ashore, yet many perished in the Wreck : ^ and many of those that got safe on the Island, for want of being accustomed to such hard- * About 300 were drowned. 80 PAIN'S ADVENTURE ships, died like rotten Sheep. But the Privateers who had aic. been used to such accidents lived merrily, from whom I had "*' this relation : and they told me, that if ihcy had gone to Jamaica with 30 /. a Man in their Pockets, they could not have enjoyed themselves more ; For they kept in a Gang by themselves, and watched when the Ships broke, to get the Goods that came from them ; and though much was staved against the Rocks, yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff, where the Privateers waited to take it up. They lived here about 3 weeks, waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaninla ; in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents, and Barrels of Beef and Pork ; which they could live on without Bread well enough, the' the new-comers out of France could not. There were about Forty Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Uquor, till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff, and was carry'd away to Sea, with all the Men drinking and singing, who being in drink, did not mind the danger, but were never heard of afterwards. In a short lime after this great Shipwrack, Captain Pain,' Commander of a IVivatecr of 6 Guns, had a pleasant iccident bcfel him at this Island. He came hither to careen, intending to fit himself very well ; for here lay driven on the Island, Masts, Yards, Timbers, and many things that he wanted, therefore he haled into the Harbour, close to the Island, and unrigg'd his Ship, Before he had done, a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns, was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff: But seeing a Ship in the Harbour, and knowing her to be a French Privateer, they thought to take her first, and came within a mile of her, and began to fire at her, intending to warp in the next day, for it is very narrow going in. Capt. Pain got ashore some of his Guns, and did what he could to resist them ; tho' he did in a manner conclude he must i ' Tills wsis the Cnptain P.iyne mentioneil cnrlier as being one of squadron at Springer's Key, n[ ihc end of May, 1(181. He wns ihcn i command of a ahtp of to guns and 100 men. VOL. I. 81 F CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. be taken. But while his Men were thus busied, he spy'd 1682 ^ Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road, and saw her at the evening Anchor at the West end of the Island. This gave him some hope of making his escape ; which he did, by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop, who took her, and got considerable purchase in her ; and he went away in her, making a good Reprizal, and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War. There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues, called by Privateers the little Isle of Aves, which is over-grown with Mangrove Trees. I have seen it, but was never on it. There are no In- habitants, that I could learn, on either of these Islands, but Boobies and a few other Birds. While we were at the Isle of Aves, we careen'd Gipt. Wright's Bark, and scrubbed the Sugar-prize, and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks ; continuing here till the be- ginning of Feb. i68j^. We went from hence to the Isles Roca*s ^ to careen the Sugar-prize, which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for. Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands, and Got our Guns ashore the first thing we did, and built a Breast-work on the Point, and planted all our guns there, to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen : Then we made a House, and covered it with our Sails, to put our Goods and Provisions in. While we lay here, a French Man of War of 36 Guns, came thro' the Keys, or little Islands; to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar. I was aboard twice or thrice, and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant, who was a Cavalier of Malta ; and they both offered me great Encouragement in France, if I would go with them ; but I ever designed to continue with those of my own Nation. The Islands Roca's are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands, lying about the lat. of 1 1 deg. 40 min. about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main, and about 20 leagues ^ Los Roqiiesy a few miles to the east of the Isles of Aves. 82 THE NODDY AND TROPICK-BIRDS N. W. by W. from Tortuga,' and 6 or 7 leagues to the am. Westward of Orchilla,' another Island lying about the '^^ uax distance from the Main ; which Island I have seen, hn WIS never ai it. Roca's siretch themselves East and fot about 5 leagues, and their breadth about 3 leagues. Northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable of a high white rocky Hill at the west end of which may be seen a great way ; and on it there are " ;nce of Tropick Birds,' Mcn-of-War, Booby and fcddics,* which breed there. The Booby and Man-of- ffir, I have describ'd already. The Noddy is a small ibck Bird, about the bigness of the English Black-bird, ini indifferent good Meat. They build in Rocks, We WTer find them far off" from shore. I have seen of them a other places, biit never saw any of their Nests, but in this lilind, where there is great plenty of them. The Tropick Bird i* as big as a Pigeon, but round and plump like a Piitridge, They are all white, except two or three fathers in each Wing of a light grey. Their Bills are "f 1 yellowish Colour, thick and short. They have one •fiof Feather, or rather a Quill, about 7 Inches long, fTows out at the Rump, which is all the Tail they have. They are never seen far without either Tropick, for which '^Moo they arc called Tropick Birds. They are very good f'wd, and we meet with them a great way at Sea, and I '■cTtrsiw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island, ^hen they build and are found in great plenty. By the Sea, on the South-side of that high Hill, there's 'mh Water comes out of the Rocks, but so slowly, that '■ yields not above 40 Gallons in 24 hours, and it tastes >i coppcrish, or aluminous rather, and rough in the Mouth, ■:''Jt It seems very unpleasant at first drinking : But after I or 3 days any Water will seem to have no taste. 1' The isLuKl off Cape Coder), Vencmeta : '^ NW. of SiU) Oomtago. iOnUfa, u island a 1^ ■ TW trapic bini, PMaUon aiktmit. *T1n noddy 'm mnch mch a "slmpli ll w aaMnUni aa Slerma tiotida. 1 : Ihc eastward of ihe Los Roques CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The middle of this Island is low plain Land, over- '^^ grown with long Grass, where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no Ugger than a Black-bird, yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy*s; and they are therefore 1^ Privateers called Egg-binds. The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees. There are 3 sorts of Mangrove-Trees,* black, red and white. The black Mangrove is the largest Tree; the body about as big as an Oak, and about 20 feet high. It is very hard and serviceable Timber, but extraordinary heavy, therefore not much made use of for Building. The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side, or by Rivers or Creeks. The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove, but always grows out of many Roots about the bigness of a Man's Leg, some bigger some less, which at about 6, 8, or 10 foot above the Ground, jo]rn into one trunk or body, that seems to be supported by so many Artificial Stakes. Where this sort of Tree grows, it is impossible to march, by reason of these Stakes, which grow so mixt one amongst another, that I have, when forced to go through them, gone half a mile, and never set my foot on the Ground, stepping from Root to Root. The Timber is hard and good for many uses. The inside of the Bark is red, and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West-Indies. The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts, neither is it of any great use : Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms, or Handles for their Oars, for it is commonly straight, but not very strong, which is the fault of them. Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots, as the red doth ; but the Body immediately out of the Ground, like other Trees. The I^nd of this East end is light sand, which is sometimes over-flown with the Sea at Spring-tides. The Road for Ships is on the South-side, against the middle of * Mangrove trees : Rhizophora. They are common on tropical coasts. The red Mangrove^ or Khizaphora candel^ is the most useful. It is still used " for tanning of leather" and also for dyeing. Tinctures of the astrin- gent bark are of use in cases of fever, and for soothing the pain of wasp stings and mosquito bites. 84 . \ [SLE OF TORTUGA the UUnii. The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low. The next to this on the South side is but small, flat, and '^*1 even, without Trees, bearing only Grass. On the South side of it is a pond of brackish water, which sometimes Privateers use instead of bctier ; there is likewise good Riding by it. About a league from this are two other I(Und«, not lOO yards distant from each other ; yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through. They are both over- grown with red Mangrove Trees ; which Trees, above any of the Mangroves, do flourish best in wet drowned Land, Mich as these two Islands are ; only the East point of the Wcstcrmost Island is dry sand, without Tree or Bush. On this point we careened, lying on the South side of it. The other Islands are low, and have red Mangroves, and other Trees on them. Here also Ships may ride, but no «uch place for careening as where we lay, because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore; and if they have but four Guns on the point, may secure the Channel, ind hinder any Enemy from coming near them. I ob- served that within among the Islands, was good riding in Tiany places, but not without the Islands, except to the Westward, or South West of them. For on the East, or N. E. of these Islands, the common Trade-Wind blows, ind makes a great Sea : And to the Southward of them, thoe b no ground under 70, or 80, or 100 fathom, clbse by the Land. After we had filled what water we could from hence, « «t out again in April 1682, and came to Salt-Tortuga, M ailed to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Toriugas,' "tv Cape Florida, and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hiipaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas; uvngb not having heard any mention of that name a great wble, I am apt to think it is swallowed up in that of Petk-Guave», the chief Garrison the French have in those Tvn. This Island wc arrived at is pretty large, unin- hibited, and abounds with Salt. It is in lat. 1 1 d. North, I aid Ijreth west and a. little northerly from Margarita, an To dH wcatward of Key W«i, in lat. 24* ^T* N., loDg. 83' ja' W. 8s CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Islajid inhabited by the Spaniards, strong, and wealthy ; it '^2 jg distant from it about 14 leagues, and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main : A Ship being within these Islands, a little to the Southward, may see at once the Main, Margarita, and Tortuga, when it is clear Weather. The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged, bare, broken Rocks, which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea. At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships, much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-shipSi that come thither to lade Salt, in the Months of May, June, July, and August. For at the East end is a large Salt-pond, within 200 paces of the Sea. The Salt begins to kern, or grain in April, .except it is a dry season ; for it is observed that Rain makes the Salt kern. I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this Road come to lade Salt ; and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands, are always well stored with Rum, Sugar, and Lime-juice to make Punch, to hearten their Men when they are at work, getting and bringing aboard the Salt ; and they commonly provide the more, in hopes to meet with Privateers, who resort hither in the aforesaid Months, purposely to keep a Christmas, as they call it ; being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with, and are very liberal to those that treat them. Near the West end of the Island, on the South side, there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water : That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees, but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees, produc- ing only course Grass. There are some Goats on it, but not many ; and Turtle or Tortoise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs, and from them the Island hath its name. There is no riding any where but in the Roads where the Salt-ponds are, or in the Harbour. At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt ; but failing there, we design'd for Trinidada,^ an island near the Main, inhabited by the Spaniards, tolerably strong and wealthy; but the Current and Easterly winds hindering us, we * Trinidad. 86 THE GUANO— ISLE OF BLANCO thruogh between Margarita and the Main, and went to Blanco,' a pretty large Island almost North of "*^* I Margariu ; about 30 leagues from the Main, and in lid. 50 m. Nonh Lat. It is a flat, even, low, unin- habited bland, dry and healthy : most Savannah of long Grass, and hath some Trees of Lignum Vita: growing in ^^r- CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES • V Thev raise die young Trees of Nuts, set with the great ^'-^'^ end dovn-Trard, in fine black Moald, and in the same places where :hev are to bear; which thej do in 4 or 5 yean time, without the trouWc of transplanting. There are ordinarily of these Trees, from 500 to 2000 and up- ward in a Plantation or dcao-walk, as they call them; and they 3h.e::er the young Trees from the weather with Plantains set about them for two or three years; destroy- ing all the Plantains by such time the Gicao-Trees are of^a pretty good Body, and able to endure the heat; which I take to be the most pernicious to them of any thing ; for tho' these Valleys lye open to the North Winds, unless a little shelter*d here and there, by some Groves of Plantain Trees which are purposely set near the Shores of the Several Bays, yet, by all that I could either observe or learn, the Cacao*s in this Country are never blighted, as I have often known them to be in other places. Gicao- Nuts are used as Money in the Bay of Campeachy. The chief Town of this Country is called Caraccos,^ a gorxl way within Land, 'tis a large wealthy place, where live most of the Owners of these Cacao-walks, that are in the Valleys by the shore ; the Plantations being man- aged by Overseers and Negro's. It is in a large Savannah Country, that abounds with Cattle ; and a Spaniard of my ac(]uaintance, a very sensible Man who hath been there, tells me that 'tis very populous, and he judges it to be three times as big as Corunna in Gallicia. The way to it is very steep and craggy, over that ridge of Hills, which I said closes up the Valleys and partition Hills of the Cacao Coast. In this Coast it self the chief place is l«a (juaire,'' a good Town close by the Sea; and though it has but a bad Harbour, yet it is much frequented by the Spanish Shipping; for the Dutch and English anchor in the sandy Bays that lie here and there, in the mouths of several Valleys, and where there is very good riding. The Town is oj^n, but hath a strong Fort ; yet both were taken some years since by Captain Wright' and his * ( 'aiar.'is. * La Guayra. ' In 1677 (?). 92 LA GUAIRE— LA COMANA— VERINA *Tis seated about 4 or 5 leagues to the aw." Wtstmrd of Cape Blanco, which Cajw is the Eastermost '^^- knitdary of this Coast of Caraccos. Further Eastward 'jbui 20 leagues, is a great Lake or Branch of the Sea, 'alkd Laguna dc Venezuela;* about which are many rich ;Tont, but the mouth of the Lake is shallow, that no 'Sups an enter. Near this mouth is a place called rCunuit,' where the Privateers were once repulsed without ■dving to attempt it any more, being the only place in the North Seas they attempted in vain for many years ; inJ the Spaniards since throw it in their teeth frequently, ui word of reproach or defiance to them. Nor far from cbl pkcc is Vcrina, a small Village and Spanish Plantation, hmom for its Tobacco; reputed the best in the World. Bat to return to Caraccos, all this Coast is subject to irj Winda, generally North East, which caused us to (ave scabby Lips; and we always found it thus, and that in difFcrent Seasons of the year, for I have been on this Coast several times.* In other respects it is very healthy, and a sweet clear Air. The Spaniards have Look-outs or Scouts on the Hills, and Breast-works in :hc Valleys, and most of their Negro's arc furnished with Anns also for defence of the Bays, The Dutch have a very profitable Trade here, almost to themselves. I have koown 3 or 4 great Ships ai a time on the Coast, each :: may be of 30 or 40 Guns. They carry hither all sorts •f Earopcan Commodities, especially Linnen ; making rjst Returns, chiefly in Silver and Cacao. And I have ficn wondered and regretted it, that none of my own Ciuntrymen find the way thither directly from England; icr our Jamaica-men Trade thither indeed, and find the tveet of it, though they carry English Commodities at letaiid or third hand. ' TiMCtttfof Cuiaco. • Htm Cwnaitt- It >«» Btuckcd in 1668-9 by one of Henry Morgan's laftta^ OB* Cmuiit Kantcl, ** wbo hnd behaved himscK very couni^eouily M ilr ukiBf M Porto Bella." The alUck woi repulsed witli great losi, te«(fe the hnctxoeen " killed »oine few Indiant." * fmkopi darinR ibe thirteen months in Viri;inin. perliaps while with ~ ~ ' aSiukut and Fishook in 1&74. 93 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. While we lay on this Coast, we went ashore in some ^^^'^ of the Bays, and took 7 or 8 Tun of Cacao; and after that 3 Barks, one laden with Hides, the second with Kuropean Commodities, the third with Earthen-ware and Brandy. With these 3 Barks we went again to the Islands of Roca*s where we sharM our Commodities, and sepa- rated, having Vessels enough to transport us all whither we thought most convenient. Twenty of us (for we were about 60) took one of the Vessels and our share of the GfKxis, and went directly for Virginia. In our way thither we took several of the Sucking-fishes; for when we see them about the Ship, we cast out a Line and Hook, and they will take it with any manner of Bait, whether Fish or Flesh. The Sucking-fish^ is about the bigness of a large Whiting, and much of the same shape i towards the Tail, but the Head is flatten From the Head ^ to the middle of its back, there groweth a sort of flesh of j a hard gristly substance like that part of the Limpit (a ,, Shell-fish, tapering up pyramidically) which sticks to the Rocks ; or like the head or mouth of a Shell Snail, but harder. This Excrescence is of a flat oval form, about 7 or 8 Inches long, and 5 or 6 broad; and rising about ^ half an Inch high. It is full of small ridges with which ' it will fasten itself to any thing that it meets with in the ^ Sea, just as a Snail doth to a Wall. When any of them hapjHsn to come about a Ship, they seldom leave her, for they will feed on such filth as is daily thrown over-board, or on nicer Excrements. When it is fair weather, and but little wind, they will play about the Ship; but in blustering weather, or when the Ship sails quick, they commonly fasten themselves to the Ships bottom, from whence neither the Ships motion, though never so swift, nor the most tempestuous Sea can remove them. They will likewise fasten themselves to any other bigger Fish; for they never swim fast themselves, if they meet with any thing to carry them. I have found them sticking ti^ u Shark, after it was hal'd in on the deck, though a * The sucking' -fish : Fchimis rem&ra, 94 >F THE SUCKING-FISH OR REMORA d boisterous a Fish, and throws i about him so vehemently for half an hour together, it ' Buy be, when caught, that did not the Sucking-fish stick at no ordinary rale, it must needs be cast off by so much noJencc It is usual also to sec them sticking to Turtle, to any old Trees, Flanks, or the like, that lie driving at Sea. Any knobs or inequalities at a Ships bottom, are -■ great hindenince to the swiftness of its sailing ; and .:; or 12 of these sticking to it, must needs retard it, as much, in a nunner, as if its bottom were foul. So that I am inclined to think that this Fish is the Remora, of which the Antients tell such stories ; if it be not, 1 know r.o other that is, and I leave the Reader to judge. I have iccn of these Sucking-fishes in great plenty in the Bay c tbe Lav of IHiwuiA . bd tUmrntm 9ip tfef froB the Spnnnfa: si^ mA vi DfCM Tvkrs n were w di^oni. pwncahrif d daac vksoaK monr Ljiad vent abovd tlii Ri «. ^ iiiy ^lAx tke C^Kun Cook. TIb ifiinaiMiiM vs nade «c the tf Vuci^or the Ue ctf^ Aih,K«caD k; s^ km abo mdi Goods v tkf had tJkem, Bat hiTiag DO rnmmiwiiw, a Cuiwia Taakr. 1 rattm, (DO sone otfaer Ficnck Coa^BBiieis by then at that bbnd, and Acf g i wclaa g the socfa a Vcad. they all jc^ned togetbar, p l aa d ewd of their Shin Goods, and AniB, aad tamed Yet Captain Trisdan took in about 8 or lo « tiiac English, and carried them with Imn to Peth- Ctarear of which omnbcr Captain CocA was one, and C^lain Divis- another, who with tbe rest found means toiOEC the Ship as die lay at Anchor in the Road,* Capt. Trabn and many of hb Men bcii^ then ashore : and the ''^Ub aen d i i^ ashore such Frenchmen as remained in nt sup and w ere mastcr'd by them, though superior in tafacr, stood away with her immediately for the Isle of '«c», before any notice of this surprize could reach the Ffiadi Governor ee lecn it in other places, and therefore am certain it ■»« not right. It was of a dark colour, like Sheeps Dung, ■ ri very soft, but of no smell, and possibly 'twas some of ■'Hr Goats Dung. I afterwards saw some sold at the Nequebars' in the East-Indies, which was of a lighter lour, but very hard, neither had it any smell; and this i So, I suppose, was a cheat. Yet it is certain that in both '■'■•ae places there is Ambergreece found, I was told by one John Read, a Bristol Man, that he was Prcatioe to a Master who traded to these Islands of Cape Vcrd. and once as he was riding at an Anchor at Fogo,^ another of these Islands, there was a lump of it swam by ''rx Ship, and the Boat being ashore he mist it ; but knew : to be Ambergreece, having taken up a lump swimming in ■he fifce manner the Voyage before, and his Master having iT *eTCTaI limes bought pieces of it of the Natives of the I*le of Fogo, so as to enrich himself thereby. And so at ">c Ncquebari, KngUshmen have bought, as I have been :rcdibly informed, great quantities of very good Ambcr- ,_, _j caOcil {Sir Rkhard Hawkins tells ns) "for that Any a %^» ihm bBmeUi in it ■ vulcan, whose tliimn in the ni(;hl ai m nrfTta llie tea." Dainpicr givvi a nimiUr descripiio lOI CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. greece. Yet the Inhabitants are so subtle that they will '^'^3 counterfeit it, both there and here : and I have heard that in the Gulf of Florida, whence much of it comes ; the Native Indians there use the same Fraud. Upon this occasion, I cannot omit to tell my Reader what I learnt from Mr Hill a Chirurgeon, upon his shewing me once a piece of Ambergreece, which was thus. One Mr Benjamin Barker, a Man that I have been long well ac- quainted with, and know him to be a very diligent and observing Person, and likewise very sober and credible, told this Mr Hill, that being in the Bay of Honduras to pro- cure Logwood, which grows there in great abundance, and passing in a Canoa over to one of the Islands in that Bay, he found upon the shore, on a sandy Bay there, a lump of Ambergreece, so large, that when carried to Jamaica, he found it to weigh a hundred pound and upwards. When he first found it, it lay dry, above the mark which the Sea then came to at high-water ; and he observed in it a great multitude of Beetles : It was of a dusky colour, towards black, and about the hardness of mellow Cheese, and of a very fragrant smell : This that Mr Hill shewed me, being some of it, which Mr Barker gave him. Besides those already mentioned, all the places where I have heard that Ambergreece hath been found, are Bermudas, and the Bahama Islands in the West Indies ; and that part of the Coast of Africk, with its adjacent Islands, which reaches from Mozambique to the Red Sea. We went from this Island of Sail, to St. Nicholas, an- other of the Cape Verd Islands, lying West South West from Sail, about 22 leagues. We arrived there the next day after we left the other, and Anchored on the S. E. side of the Island. This is a pretty large Island ; it is one of the biggest of all the Caj-Ki Verd, and lieth in a triangular form. The largest side, which lieth to the East, is about 30 leagues long, and the other two about 20 leagues each. It. is a mountainous barren Island, and rocky all round towards the Sea ; vet in the heart of it there are Vallevs, where the Portuguese, which inhabit here, have Vineyards and Plan- tations, anvi Wixxi for fewcl. Here are many Goats, which 102 -LE OF ST. NICHOLAS— ISLE OF MAYO atc but poor in comparison with those in other places, yet an. , much better than those at Sail : There are likewise many '^W AsBc*. The Govcrnour of this Island came aboard us, with | 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his company, who were all in- ili0i;rcntly well cloathcd, and accoutred with Swords and Piscols; but the rest that accompanied him to the Sea-side, which were about 20 or 30 Men more, were but in a ragged gxrb. The Govcmour brought aboard some Wine made in the Island, which tasted much tike Madera Wine : It was f a pale colour, and lookt thick. He told us the chief I rwn was in a Valley I4 mile from the Bay where we rode ; ".at he had there under him above one hundred Families, rvsdcs other Inhabitants that lived scattering in Valleys mure remote. They were all very swarthy; the Governor I' mat the dearest of them, yet of a dark tawny complexion. w^M At this Island we scrubh'd the bottom of our Ship, and ^Hrc also we dug Wells ashore on the Bay, and filled all our ^^Hitcr, and after 5 or 6 days stay, we went from hence to ^^Bvo,' another of the Cape Verd Islands, lying about 40 ^^■e Eaii and l>y South from the other ; arriving there the ^^Bt day, and anchoring on the N. W. side of the Island. ^^rtie «eni our Boat on shore, intending to have purchased - «ie provi»on, as Beef or Goats, with which this Island is vrtter itock'd than the rest of the Islands. But the In- ibitanis would not suffer our Men to land ; for about a cck before our arriral there came an English Ship, the '■len of which came ashore, pretending friendship, and rried on the Govcrnour with some others, and carrying -sm aboard, made them send ashore for Cattle to ransom ■ -cr Liberties : And yet after this set sail, and carried them iway, and they had not heard of them since. The English Man that did this (as 1 was afterwards informed) was one Cape Bond ' of Bristol. Whether ever he brought back ■name Men again I know not : He himself and most of his '>-1ca have since gone over to the Spaniards : and it was he • DsapKr louchcd bete in hii New KolUnU voyage. ' Fa> farther nrwi of Cipiaia Itond, sec Chapter VII. He may have 4 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay ■683 ^f Panama ; as I shall have occasion to relate. This Isle of Mavo is but small, and invironed with sholes, yet a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of Salt : and though there is but bad landing, yet many Ships lade here every year. Here are plenty of Bulls, Cows, and Goats ; and at a certain Season in the year, as May, June, July, and August, a sort of small Sea Tor- toise come hither to lay their E^s : but these Turtle are not so sweet as those in the West-Indies. The Inhabitants plant Corn, Yams, Potatoes, and some Plantains, and breed a few Fowls ; living very poor, yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of these Islands, St. Jago excepted, which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Mayo, and is the chief, the most fruitful, and best inhabited of all the Islands of Cape Verd ; yet mountainous, and much barren Land in it. On the East-side of the Isle of St. Jago is a good Port, which in peaceable times especially is seldom without Ships ; for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreshments, as those outward bound to the East-Indies, English, French and Dutch; many of the Ships bound to the Coast of Guinea, the Dutch to Surinam, and their own Portuguese Fleet going for Brazil, which is generally about the latter end of September : but few Ships call in here in their return for Europe. When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to sell to the Sea-men and Passengers, viz. Bullocks, Hogs, Goats, Fowls, Eggs, Plantains, and Cocoa-Nuts, which they will give in exchange for Shirts, Drawers, Handkerchiefs, Hats, Wastecoats, Breeches, or in a manner for any sort of Cloth, especially Linnen, for Woollen is not much esteemed there. They care not will- ingly to part with their Cattle of any sort but in exchange for Money, or Linen, or some other valuable Commodity. Travellers must have a care of these People, for they arc very thievish ; and if they see an opportunity will snatch any thing from you, and run away with it. We did not touch at this Island in this Voyage ; but I was there before 104 THE OTHER ISLES OF CAPE VERD s in the year 1670,' when I ■ c here lying on the top of an Hiil, and commanding the Harboui The Governor of this Island is chief over all the rest ■ 'I the IsUfuls. I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Uland, some small Villages, and a great many Inhabitants ; and that they make a great deal of Wtne, such 15 b that of St, Nicholas. I have not been nn any other of :Sc Cape Vcrd Islands, nor near them ; but have seen most •f them at a distance. They seem to be mountainous and curpcn ; some of these before- mentioned being the most fruitful and most frequented by Strangers, especially St. Jigo and Mayo. As to the rest of them, Fogo and Brava ire two small Islands lying to the Westward of St. Jago, ^ut of little note ; only Fogo is remarkable for its being i Vulono: It is all of it one large Muuntain of a good '^dghih. out of the top whereof issue Flames of Fire, yet 'nJy discerned m the night : and then it may be seen a ,:nai way at Sea. Yet this Island is not without Inhabi- ■xntx, who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea. Iheir substance is much the same as in the other Islands ; ;bey have some Goats, Fowls, Plantains, Coco-Nuts, &c. t* I am informed. Of the Plantains and Coco-Nuts I '•hall have occasion tu speak when I come into the East- lodics ; and shall defer the giving an account of them till The remainder of these Islands of Cape Verd, are , Anihonio, St. Luda, St. Vinccnte, and Bona-Vista : of wfuch I know nothing considerable. Our entrance among these Islands was from the North KasJ ; for in our passage from Virginia we ran pretty far "rtrmrd the Coast of Gualata in Africk, to preserve the rrade-wind, lest we should be bom off too much to the Wotward. and so lose the Islands. We anchored at the "■uth of Sail, and parsing by the South of St. Nicholas ir>charcd again at Mayo, as hath been said; where we aoAc the shorter stay, because we could get no Flesh ; the InhaUttnts, by reason of the regret they had In his Banum vuyAKe. 105 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN', at their Governor, and his Men being carried away by ''^^ Captain Bond. So leaving the Isles of Cape Vcrd we stood away to the Southward with the Wind at E. N. E. intending to have touched no more till we came to the Streights of Magellan. But when we came into the lat. of lO deg. North, we met the Winds at S. by W. and S. S. W. therefore we altered our Resolutions, and steered away for the Coast of Guinea, and in few days came to the Mouth of the River of Sherboro,' which is an English Factory, lying South of Sierra Liona. We had one of our Men who was well acquainted there ; and by his direction we went in among the Shoals, and came to an Anchor. Sherboro was a good way from us, so I can give no account of the place, or our Factory there; save that I have been informed, that there is a considerable Trade driven there for a sort of red Wood for dyeing, which grows in that Country very plentifully, *tis called by our People Cam-wood.^ A little within the shore where we anchored was a Town of Negroes, Natives of this Coast. It was skreen*d from our sight by a large Grove of Trees that grew between them and the shore : but we went thither to them several times, during the 3 or 4 days of our stay here, to refresh our selves ; and they as often came aboard us, bringing with them Plantains, Sugar-Canes, Palm-wines, Rice, Fowls, and Honey, which they sold us. They were no way shy of us, being well acquainted with the English, by reason of our Guinea Factories and Trade. This Town sccmM pretty large ; the Houses are but low and ordinary : but one great House in the midst of it, where their chief Men meet and receive Strangers : and here they treated us with Palm-wine. As to their Persons, they are like other Negroes. While we lay here we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship, and then fill'd all our Water-casks ; and buying up two Pimcheons of Rice for our Voyage, we departed * Shorhoroiijyh, an English scttlemcnl and tradinjf station. It lies a little to the ^oiuh o\' Sierra Leone. - **rhey have another Wooil called Canibe, wherewith they dye their Pin>eN .uul Mats revl" (William Finch, /\Vw<*w^r.i//c cv louchini: Sierr.t I s\'»t^^ i(K^7 : in Turi-hasV Camwood is /ui/f/:t\t m/tt/*i^ ** yielding a belter uvl than r*ni:il," the more familiar kind of lo^jwooil. ic6 ■tornadoes, or THUNDER-SHOWERS ffom hence about ihc middle of November, 1683. prose- a - ^ling our intended Course towards the Stretghts of " MigelUn. We had but little wind after we got out, and very hot xeiihcr, with some fierce Tornadoes, commonly rising out •i the N, E. which brought Thunder, Lightening, and Rain. These did not last long ; sometimes not a quarter of an hoar, iiui then the Wind would shuffle about to the South- nrd again, and fall fiat calm ; for these Tornadoes com- monly come against the Wind that is then blowing, as our Thuoder-clouds arc often observed to do in England ; but the Tornadoes I shall describe more largely in my Chapter ol Winds, in the Appendix to this Book. At this time msajr of our Men were taken with Fevers ; yet we lost but one. While we lay in the calms we caught several great Sharks ; sometimes 2 or 3 in a day, and eat them ill, boyling and squeezing them dry, and then stewing iRera with Vinegar, Pepper, &c. for we had but little flesh tSrxnt We took the benefit of every Tornado, which ame sometimes 3 or 4 in a day, and carried what sail we C'juid to get to the Southward, for we had but little Wind wfaeo they were over; and those small Winds between the Tornadoes were much against us, at S. by E. and S. S. E. till wc past the Equinoctial Line, which we crost about a degree to the Eastward of the Meridian of the Isle of St. jago, one of the Cape Verd Islands. At first we could scarcely lie S. W. but being got a d^ree Ut the Southward of the Line, the wind veer'd norc Easterly, and then we stemmed S, W. by S. and as •c got farther to the Southward, so the wind came about I the Eastward and freshened upon us. In the Lat. of |S we had the wind at S. E. In the Lat. of 5 we had |at E. S. E.' where it stood a considerable time, and blew 1 Top-gallant gale. We then made the best use of Ting on briskly with all the sail we could make ; and I wind, by the l8lh of Jan. carried us intn the Lat. of \ South. In all this time wc met with nothing worthy * TbK S£. trade-wind. 107 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN 1684 remark ; not so much as a Fish, except Flying Fish, which have been so often described, that I think it needless for me to do it. Here we found the Sea much changed from its natural greenness to a white, or palish colour, which caused us to sound, supposing we might strike ground: For whenever we find the colour of the Sea to change, we know wc are not far from Land, or shoals which stretch out into the Sea, running from some Land. But here we found no ground with one hundred Fathom Line. I was this day at noon by reckoning, 48 d. 50 m. West from the Lizard, the variation by our morning amplitude 15 d. 50 m. East, the variation increasing. The 20th day one of our Chirur- geons died much lamented, because we had but one more^ for such a dangerous Voyage. January 28, we made the Sibbel de Wards,* which arc 3 Islands lying in the lat. of 51 d. 25 m. South, and longitude West from the Lizard in England, by my account, 57 d. 28 m. the variation here we found to be 23 d. 10 m. I had for a month before we came hither, endeavoured to perswade Captain Cook, and his Company, to anchor at these Islands, where I told them we might probably get water, as I then thought, and in case wc should miss of it here, yet by being good Husbands of what we had, we might reach John Fernando's in the South Seas, before our water was spent. This I urged to hinder their designs of going through the Streights of Magellan, which I knew would prove very dangerous to us; the rather, because our Men being Privateers, and so more wilful, and less under command, would not be so ready to give a watchful attendance in a passage so little known. For altho' these Men were more under command, than I had ever seen any Privateers, yet I could not expect to find them at a minutes call,* in * Lionel Wafer. * Sebald de Wart. The Falkland Islands, discovered by John Davis in 1 591-2, and perhaps rc-discovered by Sir Richard Hawkins a year later. Dampier saw them again in his Woodes-Roj^ers voyage. ^ From this remark we may conclude that Dampier was second master, or " master*s mate," of the ship, under Cowley. 108 A SORT OF SMALL LOBSTERS ling to an Anchor, or weighing Anchor: Beside, if am. ever we should have occasion to moor, or cast out two '*** Anchors, we had not a Boat to carry out or weigh an Anchor. These Islands of Sibbcl de Wards were so named by the Dutch. They are all three rocky barren Islands J without any Tree, only some DiIdoe>Bushes' growing on I them : And 1 do believe there is no Water on any one of I them, for there was no appearance of any Water. The I two Northcrmost we could not come near, but the Souther- I most we came close by, but could not strike ground till I within 2 Cables length of the shore, and there found it I to be foul rocky Ground. I From the time that we were in lo dcg. South till we I came to these Islands, we had the Wind between K. N, 1"'. I and the N. N. E. fair weather, and a brisk gale. The day I that wc made these Islands, we saw great shoals of small I Lobsters, which coloured the Sea red in spots, for a Mile in i compass, and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our I Water-buckets, They were no bigger than the top of a I Man's little Finger, yet all their Claws, both great and I small like a Lobster. I never saw any of this sort of Fish I naturally red but here ; for ours on the English Coast, I which are black naturally, arc not red till they arc boiled ; I Neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of I the Lobster-shape so small as these; unless, it may be, I Shrimps or Prawns. Capt. Swan and Capt. Eaton ' met I also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude I Ei Longitude. I Leaving therefore the Sibbel de Ward Islands, as having I ither good Anchorage nor Water, we sailed on. directing r Course for the Streights of Magellan. But the Winds I hanging in the Wester-board, and blowing hard, oft put I us by»our Topsails, so that we could not fetch it. The I ^Ui day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair,* I »«I anii ti ■ Vaklivui i» i;.i. 39' 49' S - ........ ..1 i;it. 39' 49' .S.. loti^. 73* ■ Capuin Eatnn- Sf^ Appendix. 19" W. CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AM. He met Capt. Swan^ (one that came from England '^'^'"^ to Trade here) at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan, and they accompamed each other thro' the Streights, and were separated after they were through by the Storm before-mentioned. Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando*s Isle, we kept Company, and we spared him Bread and Beef, and he spared us Water, which he took in as he passed through the Streights. March the 22d, 1684, we came in sight of the Island, and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island, in 25 fathom Water, not two Cables lengths from the shore. We presently got out our Canoa, and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian,' whom we left here when we were chased hence by 3 Spanish Ships in the year 168 1, a little before we went to Arica; Capt. Watlin being then our Commander, after Capt. Sharp was turned out. This Indian lived here alone above three years, and altho' he was several times sought after by the Spaniards, who knew he was left on the Island, yet they could never find him. He was in the Woods, hunting for Goats, when Capt. Watlin drew off his Men, and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore. He had with him his Gun and a Knife, with a small Horn of Powder, and a few Shot ; which being spent, he contrived a way by notching his Knife, to saw the Barrel of his Gun into small Pieces, wherewith he made Harpoons, Lances, Hooks and a long Knife ; heating the pieces first in the fire, which he struck with bis Gun-flint, and a piece of the Barrel of his Gun, which he hardened ; having learnt to do that among the English. The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones, and saw them with his jagged Knife, or grind them to an edge by long labour, and harden them to a good temper as there * C'antain Swan. Sec Appendix. * This was '* William,'' who had l>een left behind on the i ilh of January if>Si, when the sudiion appearance of three Sjxinish ships of war compelled the buccaneers to slip their cables and put to sea. I 12 L MOSKITO INDIAN LEFT HERE xa«oa. All this may seem strange to those that are an. :qusinted with the sagacity of the Indians; but it is '^°* OR than these Moskiio Men are accustomed to in ■^£oDntry, where they make their own Fishing and ^^BRTuments, without either Forge or Anvil ; the' ^^BS great deal of time about them. ther wild Indians who have not the use of Iron, 1 the Moskito Men have from the English, make den of a very hard Stone, with which they will cut Trees, (the Cotton-Tree especially, which is a soft r Wood) to build their Houses or make Canoas; Jiough in working their Canoas hollow, they cannot hem so neat and thin, yet they will make them fit heir Service. This their Digging or Hatchet-work help out by Fire ; whether for the felling of the I, or for the making the inside of their Canoas hollow. t Contrivances are used particularly by the Savage M of Blewfield's River, described in the 3d Chapter, ^^hois and Stone Hatchets I have seen. These ^^^pets ve about to Inches long, 4 broad, and ^^p'tHck in the middle. They are grownd away nd tharp at both ends : Right in the midst, and clear I it they make a notch, so wide and deep that a Man t pUce hi* Finger along it, and taking a stick or withe L 4 foot long, they bind it round the Hatchet-head, in notch, ind so twisting it hard, use it as an handle or ; the head being held by it very fast. Nor are wild Indians less ingenious. Those of Patagonia, jiariy, head their Arrows with Flint, cut or ground ; I fuve seen and admired. But to return to our Msn on the Isle of J. Fernando. With such iments as he made in that manner, he got such u the Island afforded ; either Goats or Fish, u* that at first he was forced to cat Seal, which rr ordinary Meat, before he had made Hooks : but ■ds he never killed any Seals but to make Lines, their Skins into Thongs. He had a Httlc House ut half ■ Mile from the Sea, which was lin'd with Skin; his Couch tM" Barbccu of Sticks lying along .r- 113 H CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. about 2 foot distant from the Ground, was spread with 1^4 the same, and was all his Bedding. He had no Cloaths left, having worn out those he brought from Watlin*s Ship, but only a Skin about his Waste. He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor, and did believe we were English, and therefore killM 3 Goats in the Morning, before we came to an Anchor, and drest them with Cabbage, to treat us when we came ashore. He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe Arrival. And when we landed, a Moskito Indian, named Robin, first leaped ashore, and running to his Brother Mosldto Man, threw himself flat on his ^ce at his feet, who helping him up, and embracing him, fell flat with his face on the Ground at Robin's feet, and was by him taken up also. We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize, and tenderness, and solemnity of this interview, which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides; and when their Ceremonies of Civility were over, we also that stood gazing at them drew near, each of us embracing him we had found here, who was overjoyed to see so many of his old Friends come hither, as he thought purposely to fetch him. He was named Will, as the other was Robin. These were names given them by the English, for they had no Names among themselves; and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us ; and will complain for want of it, if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us : saying of themselves they are poor Men, and have no Name. This Island is in lat. 34 d. 45 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main. It is about 12 leagues round, full of high Hills, and small pleasant Valleys ; which if manured, would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate. The sides of the Mountains are part Savannahs, part Wood- land. Savannahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods ; not because more barren than the Wood-land, for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any, and often are intermixt with Wood-land. In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savannahs, which I have seen full of Cattle : but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I 114 ■BLE of JOHN FERNANDO, DESCRIBED I ^K*rd of, 50, 60, or 100 Miles in length ; and Jamaica, ah.1 Cuba ind Hispaniola, have many Savannahs intermixt '^*« with Woods. Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour I do not go by this Name, but those only which are found I >o in the uninhibited parts of America, such as this Isle of I John Pemandocs; or which were originally clear in other I farts. I The Grass in these Savannahs at John Femando's is I DOC a long flaggy Grass, such as is usually in the Savannahs I ■■1 the W( cst-lndics, but a sort of kindly Grass, thick and M rourishing the biggest part of the year. The Woods ■ .Scrd divers sorts of Trees; some large and good Timber H ;'«■ Bailding, hut none fit for Masts, The Cabbage Trees V f this Isle arc but small and low ; yet afford a good head, 1 ind the Cabbage very sweet. This Tree I shall describe in I ■be Appendix, in the Bay of Campeachy. J The Savannahs arc stocked with Goats in great Herds : I but those that live on the East end of the Island are not I • I fat as those on the West end ; for though there is much I more Grass, and plenty of Water in every Valley, never- I todeaa they thrive not so well here as on the West end, I vbere there is less Food ; and yet there arc found greater 1 Hoclu, and those too fatter and sweeter. I That West end of the Island is all high Champion I <3round without any Valley, and but one place to land; I there b neither Wood nor any fresh Water, and the Grass I ihort sod dry. I Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando, 1 rho first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to 1 BUdivta; (and discovered also another Island about the J ame bigness, 20 leagues to the Westward of this.) From ■ thcae Gouts these were propagated, and the Island hath m takm its Name from this its hrst Discoverer, who, when be I *>rtiinied to Lima, desired a Patent for it, designing to I <^tile here; and it was in his second Voyage hither that he I ■ct ashore j or 4 Goats, which have since, by their increase, ^ ^' well stock'd the whole Island. But he could never get - Pitcnt for il, therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants, an doabtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families, >'J J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. by what may be produced ofF the Land only. I speak 1684 jnuch within compass ; for the Savannahs would at present feed 1000 Head of Cattle besides Goats, and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn, or Wheat, and good Pease, Yams, or Potatoes; for the land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains, is of a good black fruitful Mold. The Sea about it is likewise very produc- tive of its Inhabitants. Seals swarm as thick about this Island, as if they had no other place in the World to live in ; for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on, but is full of them. Sea Lions are here in great Companies, and Fish, particularly Snappers and Rock-fish, are so plentiful, that two Men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line, as many as will serve 100 Men.^ The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known, yet it may not be amiss to describe them. They are as big as Calves, the head of them like a Dog, therefore called by the Dutch the Sea-hounds. Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin : These serve them to swim with when in the Sea, and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end, by the help of these Fins or Stumps, and so having their Tail- parts drawn close under them, they rebound, as it were, and throw their Bodies forward, drawing their hinder- parts after them ; and then again rising up, and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately, they lie tumbling thus up and down, all the while they are moving on Land. From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish, and have two small Fins on each side the Rump ; which is commonly covered with their Fins. These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea ; and on Land they sit on them, when they give suck to their young. Their Hair is of divers colours, as black, grey, dun, spotted, looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out * " Here is such great Plenty of Fish, that one Man may catch enough in a Day's time to suffice 200 Men " {Cowley's Journal), A snapper is Pomatomus saltatrix, A rock-fish is a fish of the genus Sebastodes. The "rosy" and "blue** rock-fishes are " very delicate meat" 116 SEALS ' the Sea : l-'or these at John Fernando's have fine thick ak. ^ short Fur; the tike I have not taken notice of any where ^^^* bat in these Seas. Here arc always thousands, I might «y possibly millions of them, either sitting on the Bays, nr going and coming in the Sea round the Island ; which is coTcred with them (as they lie at the top of the Water -iaying and sunning themselves) for a Mile or two from ■ ■ c Shore, When they come out of the Sea they bleat tc Sheep for their young; and tho' they pass through riuodrcds of others young ones, before they come to their awn, yet they will not suffer any of them to suck. The Tnuag ones arc like Puppies, and lie much ashore ; but «hen beaten by any of us, they, as well as the old ones, ^ill make towards the Sea, and swim very swift and -mhlc; tho' on shore they lye very sluggishly, and will vrt go out of our ways unless wc beat them, but snap at ^v A blow on the Nose soon kills them. Large Ships Tiight here load themselves with Seals Skins, and Trane- .1 ; for they arc extraordinary fat. Seals are found as «fll in cold as hot Climates; and in the cold places they ■ve to get on Lumps of Ice, where they will lie and JO themselves, as here on the Land : They arc frequent " the Northern parts of Europe and America, and in the '^'Uthem parts of Africa, as about the Cape of Good Hope, ■ ■id at the Stnrights of Magellan: And tho' I never saw or in the West-Indies, but in the Bay of Campeachy, - an^ain Islands called the Alcoranes,> and at others called -c IXaartrt;* yet they are over all the American Coast ■ the South Seas, from Terra del Fuego, up to the ^ .ijuinoctiat Line ; but to the North of the Equinox .jiin, in these Seas, I never saw any, till as far as 2 1 ■• iTth lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East-Indies. - general they seem to resort where there is plenty of ' !*h, for that is their Food ; and Fish, such as they feed - H Cods, Groopcrs, &c. arc most plentiful on rocky «sts : and such is mostly this Western Coast of the ^ utb Anwrica; as I shall further relate. > Tbc Alacrsji clutter, lo the north of Yucatan. Car* Amn*, in ihn Hay or Caniprachy. 117 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS. The Sea Lion^ is a large Creature about 12 or 14 foot 1684 long. The biggest part of his Body is as big as a Bull: It is shaped like a Seal, but 6 times as big. The Head is like a Lion*s Head; it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye, the Teeth 3 Inches long, about the bigness of a Man*s Thumb: In Capt. Sharp*s time, some of our Men made Dice with them. They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal ; they are of a dun colour, and are all extraordinary fat ; one of them being cut up and boiled, will yield a Hogshead of Oil, which is very sweet and wholsome to fry Meat withal. The lean Flesh is black, and of a course Grain ; yet indifferent good food. They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed. Where 3, or 4, or more of them come ashore together, they huddle one on another like Swine, and grunt like them, making a hideous noise. They eat Fish, which I believe is their common Food. The Snapper is a Fish much like a Roach, but a great deal bigger. It hath a large Head and Mouth, and great Gills. The back is of a bright red, the belly of a Silver Colour: The Scales are as broad as a Shilling. The Snapper is excellent Meat. They are in many places in the West-Indies, and the South Seas: I have not seen them any where beside. The Rock-Fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper; the Spaniards call it a Baccalao, which is the Name for Cod, because it is much like it. It is rounder than the Snapper, of a dark brown Colour ; and hath small scales no bigger than a Silver-penny. This Fish is good sweet Meat, and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili. There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor; these are both at the East end, and in both of them is a Ri volet of good fresh Water. Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge, to that degree that 50 Men in each may be able to keep off * Sea Lion : Platyrhyncus leoninus. 118 tR- MANAGEMENT OF THEIR SICK , »nd there is no coming into these Bays from the anJ : end, but with great difficulty, over the Mountains, ' e if three Men are placed, they may keep down as ny as come against them on any side. This was partly I ecpoicnccd by 5 Englishmen that Capt. Davis left here, who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who Undcd in the Bays, and came here to destroy them ; iid iho" the second time one of their Consorts deserted . d fled to the Spaniards, yet the other 4 kept their j-f>und, and were afterwards taken in from hence by -jpt. Strong of London.' Wc remained at John Fernando's 16 days; our sick Vlcn were ashore all the time, and one of Captain Eaton's IXictors (for he had four in his Ship), tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs, whereof here is plenty gromng in the Brooks; and their Diseases were chiefly :nQrhutick. CHAP. V The Author departs from John Fernando* $, Of the Pacifick Sea. Of the Andeiy or high Mountains in Peru and Chili. A Prize taken. Isle of Lohos : Penguins^ and other Birds there. Three Prizes more. The Islands Gallapago*s : The Dildoe^Tree^ Burton^JVood^ Mammet'TreeSy Guanoes^ Land-Tortoise^ their several kind ; Green Snakes J Turtle- Doves^ Tortoise^ or Turtle-grass. Sea-Turtle^ their several Kinds. The Air and Weather at the Gallapag^s. S^me of the Islands described^ their Soilj 6v. The Island Cocos described^ Cape Blancoy and the Bay ofCaldera ; the Savannahs there. Captain Cook dies. Of Nicoya^ and a red Wood for dyings and other C^m^ modifies. A narrow Escape of twelve Men. Lance- Wood. Volcan Fejoy a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Leja. A Tomade. The Island and Harbour of Ria Leja. The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina. Isles of Mangera and Amapalla. The Indian Inhabitants. Hog-Plumb-Tree. Other Islands in the Gulph 9f Amapalla. Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here^ and afterwards part. ^HE 8th of April, 1684, we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando, with the Wind at S. E. We were now two Ships in Company : Captain Cook's, whose Ship I was in, and who here took the Sickness of which he died a while after; and Captain Eaton's. Our passage lay now along the Pacifick- Sea, properly so called. For tho' it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Marc Australe, Mai del Zur, or Mare Pacificum ; yet, in my opinion, the Name of the Pacifick-Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 deg. South Latitude, and from the American shore Westward indefinitely, with respect to my observation ; who have been in these parts 250 120 ATTOliS OF CHIU AND PERU L>ciguc9 or more from Land, and still had the Sea very aaI qoict from Wimis. For in all ihis Tract of Water, of "^B which I have spoken, there arc no dark rainy Clouds, tho' often a chick Horizon, so as to hinder an observation f the Son with the Quadrant ; and in the Morning hazy ■cathcr frequently, and thick Mists, but scarce able to wet r.c. Nor are there In this Sea any Winds but the Trade- iTful, no Tempests, no Tornadoes or Hurricanes (tho' '^'-irth of the Kquator, they arc met with as well in this Knn as in the Atlantick) yet the Sea it self at the new :nd foil of the Moon, runs with high, large, long Surges, uT 4uch ai never break out at Sea, and so are safe enough ; unlcs* that where they fall in and break upon the shore, they make it bad landing. in this Sea wc made the best of our way toward the Line, till in the lat. of 24 S. where we fell in with the main Laod of the South America, All this course of the Land, t»och of Chili and Peru is vastly high ; therefore we kept : ! or 14 leagues off from shore, being unwilling to be seen ^ the Spaniards dwelling there. The Land (especially '^yond this, from 24 dcg. S, Lat, to 17, and from 14 t" to) '» of a mcisl prodigious hcighth. It lies generally in kvlgcs parallel to the shore, and 3 or 4 Ridges, one with iiothcr, each surpassing other in heighth ; and thi^e that irc farthest within Land, arc much higher than others. They ilway^ appear blue when seen at Sea : sometimes they are ■ n>cured with Clouds, but not so often as the high Lands in .:ber p»ru of the World, for here are seldom or never any Kaii» oa these Hills, any more than in the Sea near it ; neither u-c tbcy subject to Kogs. These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw,' far surpassing the Pike of TenarifFe; or ^ata Martha, and 1 believe any Mountains in the World. I have teen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South,'' t>ut iKft so high as in the Latitudes before described. In ir John Narborough's Voyage also to Batdivia, (a City on ' He Kkn to the rank of prodigious mountains marshnlled alont; the :a^ ui n rocky and scra^^y (ilace. On the i. W. Mde tbcnof ii ■ ted bill. . . . which Ihc Indutn tishcrmcn much A^^M.* IIm boccauMn fnqucnlly visited ihcse blonds. '23 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S^ VOYAGES AS. but flutter, having rather Stumps like a young Goslin*s, '^^"^ than Wings: And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water. Their feathers arc downy. Their Flesh is but ordinary tVx>d ; but their Eggs are good Meat. There is another sort of small black Fowl, that make holes in the Sand for their Night Habitations, whose Flesh is good sweet Meat. I never saw any of them but here, and at John Fernando's. There is good Riding between the Eastermost Island and the Kocks, in ten, twelve, or fourteen Fathom, for the Wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West, shelters that Road. Here we scrubbed our Ships, and being in a readiness to sail, the Prisoners were examined, to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt ; for they had before informed us, that wc were descried by the Spaniards, and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here. Many Towns were considered on, as Guiaquil, Zana, Truxillo, and others: At last Truxillo was pitched on, as the most important ; therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could conquer it : Which we did not much question, though wc knew it to be a very populous City. But the greatest difficulty was in Landing ; for Guan- chaquo, which is the nearest Sea-Port to it, but 6 miles off, is an ill place to Land, since sometimes the very Fisher- men, that live there, are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days. However the 17th of May, in the Afternoon, our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies, and their Arms proved. We were in all 108 Men fit for service, besides the sick : And the next day we intended to sail and take the Wood Prize with us. But the next day, one of our Men being ashore betimes on the Island, descried three Sail hound to the Northward ; two of them without the Islantl to the Westward, the other between it and the Continent. Wc soon got our Anchors up and chased : and Captain Mat on, who drew the least draught of Water, put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks, and went 124 ■ CRUISINGS Mcr those two that were without the Islands. We in t ^■[Kain Cook*& Ship went after the other, which stood in " ^m the Mun Land, but we soon fetched her up, and Hving taken her, stood in again with her to the Island ; Hr w saw that Captain Eacon wanted no help, having Hken both those that he went after. He came in with one ^m his Prizes; but the other was so far to Leeward, and so ^kp, that he could not then get her in, but he hoped to ^■t her in the next day : But being deep taden, as designed ^» go down before the wind to Panama, she would not har iaiL The 19th day she turned all day, but got nothing oearer the Island. Our Moskito strikers, according to thcif custom, went out and struck six Turtles; fur here irr indiffrrcnt plenty of them. These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo, all three laden •ith Flower, bound for Panama. Two of them were Uden as deep as they could swim, the other was not above half laden, but wa« ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to nil with the other two, or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas; for he hoped they might escape M by setting out early. In the biggest Ship was a Letter ■1) the IVesidcni of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima; asuring him. that there were Enemies come Into that Sea ; I'oc which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with R(#wer. that they might not want ; (for Panama is sup- pfied from Peru ;) and de*ircd him to be frugal of it, for he knew not when he should send more. In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinces, and ft suiely Mule sent to the President, and a very large Imaee of the Virgin Mary in Woal, carved and painted to •acm a new Church at Panama, and sent from Lima by the Vice-Koy ; for this great Ship came from thetice not Umg before. She brought also from Lima 800000 Pieces □f Eight, ro carry with her to Panama : but while she lay It Guanchaco. uking in her lading of Flower, the Mer- chants hearing of Capt. Swan's being in Baldivia, ordcr'd '.he Money ashore again. These Prisoners likewise in- forrncd u», that the Gentlemen (Inhabitants of Truxillo) 125 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. were building a Fort at Guanchaquo (which is the Sea-Port 1684 £qj. Truxillo) close by the Sea, purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there. Upon this news we altered our former resolutions, and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos ; which are a great many large Islands, lying some under the Equator, others on each side of it. I shall here omit the description of Truxillo,^ because in my Appendix, at the latter end of the Book, I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast, from Baldivia to Panama, and from thence towards California. The 1 9th day in the evening we sailed from the Island Lobos, with Captain Eaton in our Company. We carried the three Flower Prizes with us, but our first Prize laden with Timber, we left here at an Anchor ; the Wind was at S. by E. which is the Common Trade- Wind here, and wc steered away N. W. by N. intending to run into the latitude of the Isles Gallapagos, and steer off West, because we did not know the certain distance, and therefore could not shape a direct course to them. When we came within 40 minutes of the Equator, we steered west, having the Wind at South, a very moderate gentle Gale. It was the 31st day of May when we first had sight of the Islands Gallapagos : Some of them appeared on our Weather-bow, some on our Lee-bow, others right a head. We at first sight trimmM our Sails, and steered as nigh the Wind as we could, striving to get to the Southermost of them, but our Prizes being deep laden, their Sails but small and thin, and a very small Gale, they could not keep up with us ; therefore we likewise edged away again, a point from the Wind, to keep near them ; and in the evening, the Ship that I was in, and Captain Eaton, Anchored on the East side of one of the Eastermost Islands, a Mile from the shoar, in sixteen fathom Water, clean, white, hard Sand. The Gallapagos Islands are a great number of unin- ^ Truxillo, or Trujillo, in northern Peru (lat. 8* 7' S., long:. 79* 4' W.) is one of the oldest of the Spanish towns upon the coast. It lies a few miles within land, and its two seaports, Huanchaco (to the north) and Salavcrry (to the south) arc surf-beaten and dangerous. Salaverxy is now the more important of the two. 126 ISLES OF THE GALLAPAGOS IsUnds, lying under, and on both sides > nor. The Eastcrmost of them are about no Leagues '^^'* ihc Main. They are laid down in the Longitude 8i, reaching to the Westward as far as 176, there- fort their Longitude from England Westward is about 6B donees.' But 1 believe our Hydrographers do not pUcc them far enough to the Westward. The Spaniards who fir»t discovered them, and in whose draughts alone they are laid down, report them to be a great number stretching North-West from the Line, as far as 5 degrees N, but we MW not above 14 or 15. They are some of them 7 or 8 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. They are of a good hdghth, most of them flat and even on the top ; 4 or 5 of the E»Kermost are rocky, barren and hilly, producing neither Tree, Herb, nor Grass, but a few Dildoe-tree, escrpt by the Sea side. The Dildoe-tree is a green prickly ihrub, that grows about 10 or 12 foot high, without either Leaf or Fruit. It is as big as a Mans Leg, from the root to the top, and it is full of sharp prickles, growing in thick nm* from top to bottom ; This shrub is fit for no use, not » much as to bum. Close by the Sea there grows in some pUcd bushes of Burton-wood, which is very good firing. Th» sort of wood grows in many places in the West-Indies, eupccially in the Bay of Campeachy, and in the Sambaloes. I did never sec any in these Seas but here. There is Water 00 thoe barren Islands, in ponds and holes among the Rocks. Some other of these Islands arc mostly plain and low, and ihc Land more fertile, producing Trees of divers sons, unknown to us. Some of the Wcstermost of these Islands, arc nine or ten leagues long, and six or seven trowj ; the Mould deep and black. These produce Trees 7f pni and tall bodies, especially Ma mniee- trees, which pmr here in great Groves. In these large Islands there ut aomc pretty big Rivers; and on many of the other laaa- Islands, there are Brooks of good Water. The Sptaiinls when they first discover'd these Islands, found * Ahaot $9'. Uunpier'* hdief ms well justified. Tt' ■MMcamtthrin BtlMt CubIcv call« "Vunioutti Kuad" CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. multitudes of Guanoes, and Land-turtle or Tortoise/ and ^^^^ named them the Gallapago's Islands. I do believe there is no place in the World that is so plentifully stored with those Animals. The Guanoes here are as fat and large as any that I ever saw ; they are so tame, that a man may knock down twenty in an hours time with a Club. The Land-turtle are here so numerous, that 5 or 600 Men might subsist on them alone for several months, without any other sort of Provision : They are extraordinary large and fat ; and so sweet, that no Pullet eats more pleasantly. One of the largest of these Creatures will weigh 150 or 200 weight, and some of them are 2 foot, or 2 foot 6 inches over the Callap)ee or Belly. I did never see any but at this place, that will weigh above 30 pound weight. I have heard that at the Isle of St. Lawrence or Madagascar, and at the English Forest,^ an Island near it, called also Don Mascarin, and now possessed by the French; there are very large ones, but whether so big, fat, and sweet as these, I know not. There are 3 or 4 sorts of these Creatures in the West-Indies. One is called by the Spaniards, Hecatee ;• these live most in fresh Water-ponds, and seldom come on Land. They weigh about 10 or 15 pound; they have small Legs and flat Feet, and small long Necks. Another sort is called Terrapen ; * these are a great deal less than the Hecatee ; the Shell on their backs is all carved natur- ally, finely wrought, and well clouded : the Backs of these are rounder than those before-mentioned ; they are other- wise much of the same form : these delight to live in wet swampy places, or on the Land near such places. Both these sorts are very good Meat. They are in great plenty on the Isles of Pines near Cuba : there the Spanish Hunters when they meet them in the Woods bring them home to their Huts, and mark them by notching their Shells, then let them go ; this they do to have them at hand, for they * Testudo Indica. They live upon " succulent cactus," the acid guaya- vita berry, and a lichen which grows upon the dildo bushes. ' Mascarenas, or Don Mascarenhas, the Portuguese name for the Mauritius. 3 A variety of marsh or fresh-water tortoise. * The terrapin. 128 SEA TORTOISE, AND THEIR KINDS vcr ramble far from thence. When these Hunters » ■:■---■. to Cuba, after about a month or six Weeks stay, " .c. ciuy with them 3 or 400, or more, of these Creatures ■o sell ; for they arc very good Meat, and every Man iuiows hi» own hy their Marks. These Tortoise in the Galiapaga's are more like the Hecatee, except that, as 1 atd before, they arc much bigger ; and they have very long small necks and little heads. There are some green Snakes call'd becauK their mouths are long and small, some- wim resembling the Bill of a Hawk : on the backs of these Hawk»-biII Turtle grows that shell which is so much esteem *d for making Cabinets, Combs, and other things. The bugest of them may have three pound and a half of 'tell ; I have taken some that have had 3 pound 10 Ounces : t tbey commonly have a pound and half, or two pound ; ' Tbe Wwik-tiMlIe It SfiA-irgii atriitea. The loKj-crlieail is Ckcltmt li amelU «cr) (iraaul)' of miuk. Tlio hawk'i-bill is Ckthn . \ of ■b>cb ilw r%%\ are very delicious, ihouKb >he fltsli is wune- The KrcCfl innlc, Chtlom mydat, is the tunic knonA CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. some not so much. These are but ordinary food^ but 1684 generally sweeter than the Loggerhead : Yet these Hawks- bills, in some places, are unwholsome, causing them that eat them to purge and vomit excessively, especially those between the Sambaloes and Portobel. We meet with other Fish in the West-Indies, of the same malignant nature : But I shall describe them in the Appendix. These Hawks-Bill Turtles are better or worse, according to their feeding. In some places they feed on Grass, as the Green Tortoise also doth ; in other places they keep among Rocks, and feed on Moss, or Sea Weeds ; but these are not so sweet as those that eat Grass, neither is their Shell so clear ; for they are commonly over-grown with Barnacles which spoil the shell ; and their flesh is commonly yellow, especially the fat. Hawks-bill Turtle are in many places of the West- Indies. They have Islands and places peculiar to them- selves, where they lay their Eggs, and seldom come among any other Turtle. These, and all other Turtle, lay eggs in the Sand ; their time of laying is in May, June, July.* Some begin sooner, some later. They lay three times in a Season, and at each time 80 or 90 Eggs. Their Eggs arc as big as a Hens Egg, and very round, covered only with a white tough Skin. There are some Bays on the North-side of Jamaica, where these Hawks-bills resort to lay. In the Bay of Honduras are Islands which they likewise make their breeding places, and many places along all the Coast on the Main of the West-Indies, from Trinidado to La Vera Cruz, in the Bay of Nova Hispania. When a Sea-turtle turns out of the Sea to lay, she is at least an Hour before she returns again ; for she is to go above high-water mark, and if it be low-water when she comes ashore, she must rest once or twice, being heavy, before she comes to the place where she lays. When she hath found a place for her purpose, she makes a great Hole with her Fins in the Sand, wherein she lays her Eggs, then covers them two foot deep with the same Sand which she threw out of the hole, and so returns. Sometimes they come up the night before they intend to ' The early editions add " in S. lat. about Christmas." 130 SEA TORTOISE, AND THEIR KINDS . »nd take i view of the place, and so having made a an. lur, or Semi- circular March, they return lo the Sea again, '^ they never fail to come ashore the next night, to lay ir ihmt pUcc. All sorts of Turtle use the same methods Uring. I knew a Man in Jamaica, that made 8 pound :rling a* the shell of these Hawks-bill Turtle, which he fw in one Season, and in one small Bay, not half a mile *'«g. The manner of taking them is to watch the Bay, by walking from one part to the other all night, making no DOtse, nor keeping any sort of light. When the Turtle comeuhore, the Man that watches for them turns them on their Backs, then hales them above high-water mark, and waves them till the Morning. A large green Turtle, with ^cr weight and struggling, will puzzle two Men to turn r:er. The Hawks-biil Turtle are not only found in the West-Indies, but on the Coast of Guinea, and in the East- lrv.{ics. I never saw any in the South Seas. The Green Turtle are so called, because their shell is fnxner than any other. It is very thin and clear, and etter clouded than the Hawks-bill ; but 'tis used only for f.lays, being extraordinary thin. These Turtles are gene- -iJIy Ixrgcr than the Hawks-bill ; one will weigh 2 or 3 -Liadrvd pound. Their backs arc flatter than the Hawks- •JL, their heads round and small. Green Turtle are the Tfeetest of ill the kinds: But there are degrees of them, ■.(b in respect to their fle^h and their bigness. I have I nerved ttut at Blanco in the West-Indies, the green Tunic (which is the only kind there) are larger than any I other in the North Seas. There they will commonly weigh ^^loor 300 pound : Their Fat is yellow, and the Lean white, ^Kd tfaeir flesh extraordinary sweet. At Boca I'oro, West ^^■Ptanobcl, they arr not so large, their flesh not sn white, ^» ihc fat so yellow. Those in the Bays of Honduras ud Canipcachy are somewhat smaller still; their fat is ETiea, and the lean of a darker colour than those at Boca Ten- I heard of a monstrous green Turtle once taken at Pirt-Royal,' in the Bay of Campeachy, that was four foot ' At Laftna de TcmiBiM. U wiu a logwooiI-LUUcn' camp. •31 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. deep from the back to the belly, and the belly 6 foot broad ; ^^^4 Captain Rocky's Son, of about 9 or lo years of Age, went in it as in a Boat, on board his Fathers Ship, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The leaves of Fat afForded 8 Gallons of Oil. The Turtle that live among the Keys, or small Islands, on the South side of Cuba, are a mix*d sort, some bigger, some less ; and so their flesh is of a mixt colour, some green, some dark, some yellowish', With these Port Royal in Jamaica is constantly supplied, by Sloops that come hither with nets to take them. They carry them alive to Jamaica, where the Turtles have wires made with Stakes in the Sea, to preserve them alive ; and the Market is every day plentifully stored with Turtle, it being the common food there, chiefly for the ordinary sort of People. Green Turtle live on Grass, which grows in the Sea, in 3, 4, 5, or 6 fathom water, at most o? the places before mentioned. This Grass is different from Manatee-grass, for that is a small blade ; but this a quarter of an inch broad, and six inches long. The Turtle of these Islands Gallapagos, are a sort of a bastard green Turtle; for their shell is thicker than other green Turtle in the West or East- Indies, and their flesh is not so sweet. They are latter than any other green Turtle ; for it is common for these to be two or three foot^ deep, and their Callapees, or Bellies, 5 foot wide : But there are other green Turtle in the South Seas that are not so big as the smallest Hawks-bill. These are seen at the Island Plata, and other places thereabouts : They feed on Moss, and are very rank, but fat. Both these sorts are different from any others, for both He's and She's come ashore in the day time, and lie in the Sun ; but in other places, none but the She's go ashore, and that in the night only, to lay their Eggs. The best feeding for Turtle in the South Seas is among these Gallapago Islands, for here is plenty of Grass. There is another sort of green Turtle in the South Seas, which are but small, yet pretty sweet : These lie Westward on the Coast of Mexico. One thing is very strange and * The early editions read " 3 or 4 foot." 132 SEA TORTOISE, AND THEIR KINDS remarkable in these Creatures; that at the breeding time thty leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts, where ' they feed most of the Year, and resort to other niaces, only to lay their Kggs: And 'tis not thought that they eat any thing during this Season ; So that both He's and She's grow very lean ; but the He's to that degree that none will eat them. The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding, is at an Island in the West- Indies called Caimanes,' and the Isle Asccntion in the Western Ocean : and when the breeding time is past, there is none remaining. Doubtless ihcy swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places: For it hath been often observed, that at Caimanes, at the breeding time, there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described. The South Keys of Cuba are above 4O leagues from thence, which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from ; and it is most certain, that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season. Those that go to lay at Asccntion, must needs travel much farther ; for there is no land nearer it than 300 Leagues: And it is certain, that these Creatures live always near the shore. In the South Sea likewise, the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the year ; yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main, to lay their Eggs; which is 100 Ltagues, the nearest place. Altho' multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode, to those laying places, yet they do not all go : And at the time when the Turtle resort to these places to lay their Eggs, they are accompanied with abundance of Fish, especially Sharks; the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish, which follow the Turtle. When the She's go thus to their places to lay, the Male accompany them, and never leave them till they return: Both Male and Female are fat the beginning of the Season ; but before they return, the Male, as I said, are so lean, that *«y arc not fit to eat, but the Female are good to the very ' (iiand Caynian, to the Muih oi Cuba. ■33 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. l^st : yet not so fat as at the beginning of the Season. It 1684 is reported of these Creatures, that they are nine days en- gendering, and in the Water; the Male on the Females back. It is observable, that the Male, while engendring, do not easily forsake their female : For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when engendring : and a very bad striker may strike them then, for the Male is not shy at all : But the Female seeing a Boat, when they rise to blow, would make her escape, but that the Male grasps her with his two fore Fins, and holds her fast. When they arc thus coupled, it is best to strike the Female first, then you are sure of the Male also. These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age; and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers, that they are many years before they come to their full growth. The Air of these Islands is temperate enough consider- ing the Clime. Here is constantly a fresh Sea-breeze all day, and cooling refreshing winds in the night : Therefore the heat is not so violent here, as in most places near the Equator. The time of the year for the Rains is in November, December and January. Then there is often- times excessive dark tempestuous weather, mixt with much Thunder and Lightning. Sometimes before and after these Months, there are moderate refreshing showers; but in May, June, July, and August, the weather is always very fair. We staid at one of these Islands, which lies under the Equator, but one Night; because our Prizes could not get in to an Anchor. We refreshed our selves very well, both with Land and Sea-Turtles ; and the next day wc sailed from thence. The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to, is but two Leagues from this : *tis rocky and barren like this ; it is about five or six Leagues long, and four broad. We anchored^ in the Afternoon, at the North side of the Island, a quarter of a Mile from the * They anchored, apparently, in "Albany Bay," a bay to the north of an island which Cowley calls the Duke of York's Island. In Cowley's Chart the island is called King James's Island, the Duke of York having come to the throne by the time the Chart was first published. 134 THE SOIL, ETC. in 16 fathom water. It is steep : ind this ^BukI, and no Anchoring only at this place. Hci ^■t 'Xtlinar)' riding; fur the ground is so steep, that if an ^bchor starts il never holds again; and the Wind is com- mooly off from the Land, except in the Night, when the l-anii-wind cumn more from the West, for there it blows right along the shore, though but faintly. Here is no wucr ' but in Ponds and Holes of the Rocks. That which •c fini Anchored at hath Water on the North end, falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks, upon the Sandy Bay, where it may be taken up. As soon as we came to an .Anchor, wc made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook, who WW lick. Here Wc found the Sea-Turtle lying ashore on the sand; this is not customary in the West-Indies ; We turned them on their backs that they might not get away. The next day more came up, when we found it to be their custom m tic in the Sun : So we never took care to mm thetn afterwards; but sent ashore the Cook every moming, who killed as many as served for the day. This castom wc observed all the time we lay here, feeding some- times on Land-Turtle, sometimes on Sea-Turtle, there _, plenty of cither sort. Captain Davis came hither fitn a Kcond time; and then he went to other Islands on West side of these. There he found such plenty of d-Turtlc, that he and his Men eat nothing else for |Month» that he staid there. They were so fat that he iixty Jars of Oil out of those that he spent: This mI served instead of Butter, to eat with Dough-boys or Dumpltns, in his return out of these Seas. He found very convenient places to Careen, and good Channels between the Islands; and very good Anchoring in many places. There he found also plenty of Brooks of good fresh Water, lad Firewood enough, there being plenty of Trees fit for nzny uses. Captam Harris, one that we shall speak of berafter, came thither likewise, and found some Islands tan had plenty of Mammcc-Trccs, and pretty large Rivers. aw '■ wuier ninning Cowley also si CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish, '^^4 such as are at John Fernando*s. They are both large and fat, and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's. Here are particularly abundance of Sharks. The North part of this second Isle we anchored at, lies 28 minutes North of the Equator. I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe. These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt. We stay'd here but 12 days; in which time we put ashore 5000^ packs of Flower, for a reserve, if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas. Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Rea Leja, and that he would engage to carry us thither. He being examined of the strength and riches of it, satisfy*d the Company so well, that they were resolv'd to go thither. Having thus concluded ; the 1 2th of June we sailed from hence, designing to touch at the Island Cocos, as well to put ashore some Flower there, as to see the Island, be- cause it was on our way to Rea Leja. We steer'd North, till in Lat. 4 d. 40 min. intending them to steer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as we had on the South side of the Equator. Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes ; but when we first parted from the Galla- pagos, we had the Wind at S. and as we sailed farther North, we had the Winds at S. by W. then at S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect. We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South ; but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos, we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lie but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat. 5 d. 40 m. N. and then despairing, as the Winds were, to find the Island Cocos, we steer'd over to the Main ; for had we seen the Island then, we could not have fetcht it, being so far to the North of it. The Island Cocos ^ is so named by the Spaniards, 1 Cowley gives the number as "1500 Bags of Flower, with Sweet- meats." '^ Cocos Island. The description is correct. The island is said to hide a quantity of treasure, buried there by pirates of the early nineteenth century. 136 CAPE BLANCO ">tcause there wc abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing . UQ it. They arc not only m one or two places, but grow ' in great Groves, all round the Island, by the Sea, This is aa uninhabited Island, it is 7 or 8 leagues round, and ffmty high in the middle, where it is destitute of Trees, but looks very green and pleasant, with an Herb called by tbeSpiniards Gramadcl. It is low Land by the Sea side. This Island is in 5d. 15m. North of the Equator; it is environed with Rocks, which makes it almost inacces- xtic: only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure. In this Harbor there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea. This a the account that the Spaniards give of it, and I had the same also from Captain Eaton, who was there afterward. Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the ^^lods in these parts, might reasonably expect that we Lould have sailed with a flown sheet to Rea Leja ; but we found our selves mistaken, for as we came nearer the ibonr, we found the Winds right in our Teeth : But I >RaIl refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix, for a further account of this. We had very fair weather, and small winds, in this Voyage from the Gallapagris, and at the beginning of Jnly we fell in with Cape Blanco,' on the Main of Mexico. Thii is fo called frum two white Rocks lying off it. When we are off at Sea right against the Cape, they appear as part of the Cape ; but being near the shore, eeher to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape, they appear like two Ships under sail, at first view, but coming oarer, they are like two high Towers ; they being small, high, and »tcep on all sides, and they arc about half a atlc trom the Cape. This Cape is in lat. 9. d. 56 m. It » about the height of Beachy-head in England, on the Cfmn of Sussex. It is a full Point, with steep Kocks to the Scs. The top of it is flat and even for about a mile; rSen it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle ' Cowler <^an« il Cape Ti»)Mntai. It ia at the western L CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. descent. It appears very pleasant, being cover'd with 1684 great lofty Trees. From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues, making a small Bay, caird by the Spaniards Caldera. A league within Cape Blanco, on the N.W. side of it, and at the entrance of this Bay, there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea. Here the Land is low, making a saddling between 2 small Hills. It is very rich Land, producing large tall Trees of many sorts; the Mould is black and deep, which I have always taken notice of to be a fat Soil. About a mile from this Brook, towards the N. E. the Woodland terminates. Here the Savannah Land begins, and runs some Leagues into the Country, making many small Hills and Dales. These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees, but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves, which render them very delightful. The Grass which grows here is very kindly, thick and long, r have seen none better in the West-Indies. To- ward the bottom of the Bay, the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves, but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous. The Mountains are part Woodland, part Savannah. The Trees in those Woods are but small and short ; and the Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifFerent Grass. From the bottom of this Bay, it is but 14 or 15 leagues, to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast : the way between is somewhat Mountainous, but most Savannah. Capt. Cook, who was taken sick at John Fernandoes, continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco, and then died of a sudden ; tho' he seemed that morning to be as likely to live, as he had been some weeks before; but it is usual with sick Men coming from the Sea, where they have nothing but the Sea-Air, to die off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land. About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor, (namely the Ship that I was in, Captain Eaton, and the great Meal Prize,)^ a league within the Cape, right against the Brook * The two lesser flour ships must have been released, or burned. 138 rc\P€ BLANCO AND CALDERA BAY ^ Bf Fresh-Water, in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently aim ^Bcr wc aune to an Anchor, Gipt. Cook was carried '*** ^■borc to be buried; 12 Men carried their Arms to guard ^Vose that were ordered to dig the Grave : for although we nw no appearance of Inhabitants, yet we did not know J but the Country might be thick inhabited. And Ivforc H Cape Cook was intcrr'd, 3 Spanish Indians came to the ■ place where our Men were dicing the Grave, and du- H maoded what they were, and from whence they came ? H To whom our Men answered, They came from Lima, H and were bound to Rca Lcja, but thai the Captain of H ooe of the Ships dying at Sea, obliged them to come into H this place to give him Christian burial. The 3 Spanish H Indians who were very shy at first, began to be more bold, H and dnwing near, asked many silly Questions; and our H Men did not stick to sooth them up with as many Kals- H hoods, purposely to draw them into their clutches. Our H Men orten taught at their temerity; and asked them if H they never saw any Spaniards before? They told them, H thai they themselves were Spaniards, and that they lived H among Spaniards, and that altho' they were horn there, H yet they* had never seen 3 Ships there before : Our Men ^ toUl them, that neither now might they have seen so many, y if tt had not been on an urgent occasion. At length they drill'd them by discourse so near, that our Men laid hold OD all three at once; but before Captain Cook was buried, ooe of them made his escape, the other two were brought off aboard our Ship. Captain Eaton immediately came abuonl and examined them; they confessed that they came purposely to view our Ship, and if [wssiblc, to inform themselves what we were; for the President of Panama h fiot long before sent a Letter of advice to Nicoya, inform- ■ ifig the Magistrates thereof, that some Kncmics were come ■ into these Seas, and that therefore it behoved them to be arcful of themselves. Nicoya is a small Mulatto Town, x\xMt 12 or 14. leagues East from hence, standing on the Banks of a River of that name. It is a place very 6t for building Ships, therefore most of the Inhabitants arc Cupeaicn ; who are commonly employed in building »39 ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. new, or repairing old Ships. It was here that Capt. '^4 Sharp (just after I left him/ in the Year i68i,) got Carpenters ^ to fix his Ship, before he returned for England : and for that reason it behoved the Spaniards to be careful, (according to the Governour of Panama's advice,) lest any Men at other times wanting such necessaries as that place afforded, might again be supplied there. These Spanish Indians told us likewise, that they were sent to the place where they were taken, in order to view our Ships, as fearing these were those mentioned by the President of Panama : It being demanded of them to give an account of the Estate and Riches of the Country ; they said that the Inhabitants were most Husbandmen, who were imployed either in Planting and Manuring of Corn, or chiefly about Cattle ; they having large Savannahs, which were well stored with Bulls, Cows and Horses; that by the Sea side, in some places there grew some Red wood,^ useful in Dying; of this they said there was little profit made, because they were forced to send it to the Lake of Nicaragua, which runs into the North Seas : That they sent thither also great quantities of Bull and Cow hides, and brought from thence in Exchange Europe Commodities; as Hats, Linnen and Woollen, wherewith they cloathed themselves; that the Flesh of the Cattle turned to no other profit than Sustenance for their Families ; As for Butter and Cheese they make but little in those parts. After they had given this Relation, they told us, that if we wanted Provision there was a Beef- Estantion, or Farm of Bulls or Cows about 3 Mile off, where we might kill what we pleased. This was welcome * May 9, 1 68 1. ^ "A shipwright and his men," according to Ringrose. "A Parcel of Carpenters," according to Sharp. "We took them in the Morning," he adds, ** in their very Beds ; and we were so much the more glad at this Adventure, by how we had great Need of such sort of Artificers." The scene of the capture was not Nicoya, but a place called "Dispensa," which, according to Ringrose's very inaccurate draught, lay further up the Gulf. The carpenters helped Sharp's men to raze and re-rig the ship, the Trinity^ in which the gang had been cruising. ' Red-wood. Dampier means some variety of logwood containing scarlet crystals. The true redwood {Sempcn'ircns) is the giant Californian tree. 140 RED-WOOD— A NARROW ESCAPE for wt had no sort of Flesh since we left the ilUpagos; therefore 24 of us immediately entered into ' » Boats, taking one of these Spanish Indians with us a Hlot, and went ashore about a league from the Ship. There we haled up our Boats dry, and marched all away, following our Guide, who soon brought us to some Houses and a large Pen for Cattle. This Pen stood in a large Savannah, about two Mile from our Boats: There were a great many fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs; some of us would have kill'd 3 or 4 to carry on board, but others opposed it, and said. It was better to stay all Night, and in the Morning drive the Cattle into the Pen, and then kill 20 or 30, or as many aa we pleased. I was minded to return aboard, and en- deavoured to pcrswadc them all to go with me, but some would not, therefore I returned with 12, which was half and left the other 12 behind. At this place I saw 3 or \ Tun of the Red-wood ; which I take to be that sort of Tfood, called in Jamaica Blood-wood, or Nicaragua-wood. Ve who returned aboard, met no one to oppose us, and ' : Dcxl day we expected our Consorts that we left ashore, : none came; therefore at 4 a Clock in the Afternoon, Men went in our Canoa to sec what was become of When they came to the Bay where we landed, to go to the Estaniion, they found our Men all on a small Rock, half a mile from the shore, standing in the Water op to thrir Wastes. These Men had kept ashore in the HoiHe, and turned out betimes in the Morning to pen the Cattle: 1 or 3 went one way, and as many another i«y, to get the Cattle to the Pen, and others stood at : Pen to drive them in. When they were thus scatter'd 40 or 50 armed Spaniards' came in among them : Men immediately called to each other, and drew in a Body before the Spaniards could attack , and marched to their Boat, which was hal'd up oa the Sand. But when they came to the sandy Bay. they found thetr Boat all in Flames. This was a "A partjF Sail of Ships ; the best riding is near the Main, where there is 7 or 8 fathom water, clean hard Sand. Rea Leja Town is 2 leagues from hence, and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it ; the Westermost comes near * The observed height of this volcano is 1689 metres or about 5500 feet. 144 REA LEJA ISLAND AND HARBOUR t backddc of the Town, the other runs up ro the Town, E nothcr Ships nor Barks can go so far. These Creeks are ry narrow, and the Land on each side drowned and full F red Mangrove Trees. About a Mile and half below the Town, on the Banks of the East Creek, the Spaniards had OK up a strong Breast -work; it was likewise reported they hid another on the West Creek, both so advantageously rUcrd, that lO Men might with ease keep 200 Men from iixiding. I shall give a description of the Town in my ■rTum hither, and therefore forbear to do it here. Where- ■ re to resume the thread of our course, we were now in ^ht vf the Volcan, being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues ri«i the shore, and the Mountain bearing N. E, we took ". our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses, intending to go *ith our Canoas into the Harbour in the night. In the -". cning we had a very hard Tornado, out of the N. E. *[th much Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The violence r' the Wind did not last long, yet it was 1 1 clock at T^hc before wc got out our Canoas, and then it was quite ilm. Wc rowed in directly for the shore, and thought to ■JVC reach'd it before day, but it was 9 a clock in the morning before wc got into the Harbour. When wc came VTifain a league of the Island of Rea Leja, that makes the Harbour, wc saw 3 House on it, and coming nearer we aiw 1 or 3 Men, who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island, then they went into their Cams, which lay on the inside of the Island, and rowed ■■/wardi ibc Main; but we overtook them before they got ■cr. and brought them back again to the Island. There > a» a Honcrtun right against us on the Main when we took riw Canoa, who immediately rode away towards the Town » &*t a« he could. The rest of our Canoas rowed heavily, ■nd did not come to the Island till 12 a clock, therefore »= were forced to stay for them. Before they came, we "imined the Prisoners, who told us, that they were set there ■ watch, for the Governour of Rca Lcja received a Letter .-•wt a month before, wherein he was advised of some > come into the Sea, and therefore admonished to ic oreful ; that immediately thereupon the Governor had CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. caused a House to be built on this Island, and ordered 4 1684 Mgj^ (Q ijg continually there to watch night and day; and if they saw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it. They said they did not expect to see Boats or Canoas, but lookt out for a Ship. At first they took us in our advanced Canoa to be some Men that had been cast away and lost our Ship; till seeing 3 or 4 Gincas more, they began to suspect what we were. They told us likewise, that the Horseman which we saw did come to them every morning, and that in less than an hours time he could be at the Town. When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came ashore, we told them what had happened. It was now 3 hours since the Horseman rode away, and we could not expect to get to the Town in less than two hours ; in which time the Governour having notice of our coming, might be provided to receive us at his Breast- works ; therefore we thought it best to defer this Design till another time. There is a fine Spring of fresh water on the Island, there are some Trees also, but the biggest part is Savannah, whereon is good grass, though there is no sort of Beast to eat it. This Island is in lat. 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we stayed till 4 a clock in the afternoon ; then our Ships being come within a league of the shore, we all went on board, and steered for the Gulf of Amapalla,^ intending there to careen our Ships. The 26th of July Capt. Eaton came aboard our Ship, to consult with Captain Davis, how to get some Indians to assist us in careening : it was concluded, that when we came near the Gulf, Captain Davis should take two Canoas, well mann'd, and go before, and Capt. Eaton should stay aboard. According to this agreement, Capt. Davis went away for the Gulf the next day. The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea run- mng 8 or 10 leagues into the Country. It is bounded on the South-side of its Entrance with Point Casivina, and on the N. W. side with St. Michael's Mount. Both these ' Now the Fonseca Gulf. 146 AMAPALLA AND POINT CASIVINA i mrc very remarkable: Point Casivina is i high nd Point, which at Sea I like an Island ; because the Land withir St. Michael's Mount is a very high peeked Hill, Very steep : the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. nde, is low and even, for at least a mile. From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enti^rs on that side. Between this low Land and Point Casivina, there are two con- ndcnble high Islands; the Southermost is called Mangcra, the other is called Amapalla ; and they are two miles ■sunder. Mangcra is a high round Island, about 2 leagues in ^^jomtmsn, appearing like a tall Grove. It is invironed with ^■ocks all round, only a small Cove, or sandy Bay on the ^■^ E. side. The Mold and Soil of this Island is black, ^^■t not deep; it is mixt with Stones, yet very productive ^^m brgc tall timber Trees. In the middle of the Island ^^Krc ts an Indian Town, and a fair Spanish Church. The ^^bians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town, and wmc Planuins: They have a few Cocks and Hens, but Bit other son o( tame Fowl ; neither have they any sort "f Bean, but Cats and Dogs. There is a path from the Town to the sandy Bay. but the Way is steep and rocky, K', this sandy Bay there arc always to or 12 Canoas lie -.lied up dry, except when they are in use. Amapalla is a larger Island than Mangcra ; the Soil ■!L»ch the same. There arc two Towns on it, about two '•tlJcs asunder; one on the North-side, the other on the ! -sst-ftde r That on the East-side is not above a mile from "•e Sea; it stands on a Plain on the top of an Hill, the i'*th (o it so steep and rocky, that a few Men might keep . ■•n a great number, only with Stones. There is a very ■■i\T Church standing in the midst of the Town. The other iTovn is not so big, yet it has a good handsom Church. c thing I have observed in all the Indian Towns under t Spanish Government, as well in these parts in the Bay 'impeachy, and elsewhere, that the Images of the Virgin vand othtr Saints, (with which all their Churches were ; still painted in an Indian Complexion, and partly '47 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. in that Dress; but in those Towns which are inhabited 1684 chiefly by Spaniards, the Saints also conform themselves to the Spanish Garb and Complexion. The Houses here arc but mean; the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz, remote from the Town : They have but few Plan- tains, but they have abundance of large Hog-plumb Trees, growing about their Houses. The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largest Plumb-tree : The Leaf is of a dark green colour, and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb- tree ; but they are shaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf. The Trees are very brittle Wood ; The Fruit is oval, and as big as a small Horse-Plumb. It is at first very green, but when it is ripe, one side is yellow, the other red. It hath a great stone, and but little substance about it : The Fruit is pleasant enough ; but I do not remember that ever I saw one thoroughly ripe, that had not a Maggot or two in it. I do not remember that I did ever see any of this Fruit in the South Seas ; but at this place. In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful, and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their Ground. These Indians have also some Fowls, as those at Mangera : No Spaniards dwell among them, but only one Padre or Priest, who serves for all three Towns ; these two at Amapalla, and that at Mangera. They are under the Governor of the Town of St. Michaels, at the foot of St. Michaels Mount, to whom they pay their Tribute in Maiz ; being extreamly poor, yet very contented. They have nothing to make Money of, but their Plantations of Maiz and their Fowls ; the Padre or Fryar hath his tenths of it, and knows to a peck how much every Man hath, and how many Fowls, of which they dare not kill one, tho' they are sick, without leave from him. There was (as I said) never another white Man on these Islands, but the Fryar. He could speak the Indian Language, as all Fryars must that live among them. In this vast Country of America there are divers Nations of Indians, different in their Language, therefore those Fryars that are minded to live among any Nation of the Indians, must learn the Language of those People they propose to teach. Although these here are but poor, yet the Indians in many other 148 SLANDS IN AMAPALLA GULF ^^Bces have great Riches, which the Spaniards draw from . ^^pem fcr Trifles: In such Places the Fryars get plentiful ' ■ Incomes ; as particularly in the Bay of Campeachy, where the Indians have lai^c Cacao-walks ; or in other places where they plant Cf Boobies and Men of War Birds. The anchoring place <>o the East side, near the middle of the Island, close by ■ -.c shear, within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay : ■^cre i* about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground, and nooth water ; for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from •~c South Winds which constantly blow here. From the - E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile 'j:o the Sea, where there is commonly a great riplin or •■:hoI thrnugh both E buMly iidvcnliiml" in ihc bcMtdin^ of ihe ^n.imsh da^jship He dirul of his wounds a day or iwo bier, April i;. CAPTAIN DAMPIER*S VOYAGES AN. Stockings, &c. and except the Iron, whereof he had a good '^-^ Quantity, both wrought and in Bars : This was saved for Ballast. ' The third day after our Bark was sent to cruize, she brought in a Prize of 4CXD Tuns, laden with Timber : They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil ; she came from a Town of that Name, and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize said that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil, that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 sail of Frigots to drive us out of these Seas. This News made our unsettled Crew wish, that they had been perswaded to accept of Captain Eaton^s Company on reasonable Terms. Captain Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse con- cerning Captain Eaton ; they at last concluded to send our small Bark towards the Coast of Lima, as far as the Island Lobos, to seek Captain Eaton. This being approved by all hands, she was cleaned the next day, and sent away, mann'd with 20 Men, 10 of Captain Davis's, and 10 of Swan's Men, and Captain Swan writ a Letter directed to Captain Eaton, desiring his Company, and the Isle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous. When this Bark was gone, we turn'd another Bark, which we had, into a Fircship ; having 6 or 7 Carpenters, who soon fixt her ; and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ship, we scrubbed and cleaned our Men of War, as well as time and place would permit. The 19th day of October we finished our business, and the 20th day we sailed towards the Island Lobos, where our Bark was ordered to stay for us, or meet us again at Plata. We had but little Wind, therefore it was the 23rd day before we passed by Point St. Hellena. The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of Guiaquil. The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco. This Cape is in lat. 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worst Cape in all the South Seas to double, passing to the Southward ; for in all other places Ships may stand off to Sea 20 or 30 Leagues off, if they find they can- not get any thing under the shore ; but here they dare not do it : for, by relation of the Spaniards, they find a current setting N. W. which will carry a Ship oflF more in two hours, 162 f PAYTA— THE BUILDINGS IN PERU \ they can run in again in five. Besides, setting to the an. thward they lose ground : therefore they always beat up '''^ Under the shore, which oft-times they find very difficult, 3USC the wind commonly blows very strong at S. S. W. ' Land- or& by W. without altering; tor here are never any I winds. This Cape is of an indifferent heighth : it is fenced ni;h white Rocks to the Sea ; for which reason, I believe, ■ haih this name. The Land in the Country seems to be .11 of high, steep, rugged and barren Rocks. The 2d day of November we got as high as Payta : ^c Uy about 6 leagues off shore all the day, that the Spaniards might not see us; and in the evening sent our Canoas ashore to take it, Mann'd with i lO Men. Payta is a small Spanish Sea-Port Town in the lat. of 5d. 15 m. It is built on the Sand, close by the Sea, in a nook, elbow, or small Bay, under a pretty high Hill. There are not above 75 or 80 Houses, and two Churches. The Hou&cs arc but low and ill built. The building in this Coantry of Peru is much alike, on all the Sea-Coast. The Walk are buitt of Brick, made with Earth and Straw knadcd together : They are about three foot long, two •"oi broad, and a foot and 2 half thick : They never burn -.cm, but lay them a long time in the Sun to dry before "84 JQj^g ^.jj^g j^g £j.j^ ^g when first made, having never any winds nor rains, to rot, moulder, or shake them. However, the richer sort have Timber, which they make use of in building ; but it is brought from other places. This dry Country commences to the Northward, from about Cape Blanco to Coquimbo, in about 3od S. having no Rain that I could ever observe or hear of; nor any green thing growing in the Mountains : neither yet in the Valleys, except where here and there water'd with a few small Rivers dispersed up and down. So that the Northenmost parts of this Tract of Land are supplied with Timber from Guiaquil, Galleo, Tornato, and other places that are watered with Rains ; where there are plenty of all sorts of Timber. In the South parts, as about Guasco and Coquimbo, they fetch their Timber from the Island Chiloe, or other places there- abouts. The Walls of Churches and rich Mens Houses, are whitened with Lime, both within and without ; and the doors and posts are very large, and adorned with carved work, and the beams also in the Churches : The inside of the Houses are hung round with rich embroidered, or painted Cloths. They have likewise abundance of fine Pictures, which adds no small ornament to their House : these, I suppose, they have from Old Spain. But the Houses of Payta are none of them so richly furnished. The Churches were large and fairly carved : At one end of the Town there was a small Fort close by the Sea, but no great Guns in it. This Fort, only with Musquets, will command all the Bay, so as to hinder any Boats from land- ing. There is another Fort on the top of the Hill, just over the Town, which commands both it and the lower Fort. There is neither Wood nor Water to be had there : they fetch their Water from an Indian Town called Colan, about 2 leagues N. N. E. from Payta : for at Colan, there is a small River of Fresh Water, which runs out into the Sea; from whence Ships that touch at Payta are supplied with Water and other refreshments, as h'owls. Hogs, Plantains, Yams, and Maiz : Payta being destitute of all these things, only as they fetch them from Colan, as they have occasion. 164 COLAN— BARK-LOGS dians of Colan are all Fishernien : they go nut am, fish in Bark-logs.' Bark-logs are made of '*** nnd Logs of Wood, in manner of a Raft, and f different according to the use that they are designed for, or the humour of the People that make them, or the mstter that tbcy arc made of. If they are made for fishing, then they arc only 3 or 4 Logs of light Wood, of 7 or 8 foot long, plac'd by the side of each other, pinn'd fast toBcther with wooden pins, and bound hard with Withes. T'^e Oigs ire so placed, that the middlemost are longer ■ >.»n those by the sides, especially at the head or fore part, *aich grows narrower gradually into an angle or point, the •rttcr to cut through the Water. Others are made to -imr Goods: the bottom of these is made of 20 or 30 ^rc»i Trees of about 20, 30, or 40 foot long, fasien'd like the other, side to side, and so shaped ; on the top of these they place another shorter row of Trees across- them, fina'd fast to each other, and then pinn'd to the undermost TO* : this double row of Planks makes the bottom of the Real, and of a considerable breadth. From this bottom the Raft is raised to about 10 foot higher, with rows of Pons sometimes set upright, and supporting a floor or two : bai tfaoK 1 ob«rv'd Were rais'd by thick Trees laid a-cross other, as in Wood Piles; only not close together, as ttom of the Float, but at the ends and sides only, leave the middle all hollow like a Chamber; t here and there a beam goes across it, to keep B more compact. In this hollow, at about 4 foot 1 the beams at the bottom, they lay small poles close together, to make a floor for another Room, 00 the top of which also they lay another such •■■Mr nude of poles; and the entrances into both these K'naras is only by creeping between the great traverse Trees ihich make the Walls of this Sea-House. The lowest of -vtK ncrics Serves as a Cellar : there they lay great stones ' c Ballast, and their Jars of fresh Water closed up, and ttaik-ta(> of Mnolt the arc slill in u%e on the weii t^ouM of South Sane earvlleni ilrawinit* ol them n-itt be found in Captain "Hktofy dTiIm! Dncmcrics in the South SciL" 165 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. whatever may bear being wet ; for by the weight of the 1684 Ballast and Cargo, the bottom of this Room, and of the whole Vessel, is sunk so deep, as to lie 2 or 3 feet within the surface of the Water. The second story is for the Sea- men, and their necessaries. Above this second story the Goods are stowed, to what heighth they please, usually about 8 or 10 feet, and kept together by poles set upright quite round : only there is a little space abaft for the Steers-man, (for they have a large Rudder) and afore for the Fire-hearth, to dress their Victuals, especially when they make long Voyages, as from Lima to Truxillo, or Guiaquil, or Panama ; which last Voyage is 5 or 600 leagues. In the midst of all, among the Goods, rises a Mast, to which is fastened a large Sail, as in our West-Country Baxges in the Thames. They always go before the Windi being unable to Ply against it; and therefore are fit only for these Seas, where the Wind is always in a manner the same, not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima, till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama : and even there they meet with no great Sea ; but some- times Northerly winds : and then they lower their Sails, and drive before it, waiting a change. All their care then is only to keep off from shore ; for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea. These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards ; their Cargo is chiefly Wine, Oil, Flower, Sugar, Quito-Cloth, Soap, Goat-Skins drest, &c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men, who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind, when they come to Panama dispose of the Goods and Bottom together ; getting a passage back again for them- selves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from ; and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo. The smaller sort of Bark-logs, described before, which lie flat on the Water, and are used for Fishing, or carrying Water to Ships, or the like (half a Tun or a Tun at a time) are more governable than the other, tho' they have Masts and Sails too. With these they go out at Night by the help of the Land-wind (which is seldom wanting on 166 SINGLE BARK-LOGS— PIURA Co«t) and return back in the day time with the anT Sea-wind. 1684 This son of Floats are used in many places both in the E«R and West-Indies. On the Coast Coromandel in the East-Indies they call them Catamarans. These are but one I->Vi or two sometimes, of a sort of light Wood, and are tnaoe without Sail or Rudder, and so small, that they cury but one Man, whose Legs and Breech are always io the Water, and he manages his Log with a Paddle, appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's bock. Tbc Country about Payta is Mountainous and Barren, like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura, which is a Urge Town in the Country 40 Miles distant. It lieth, by report of our Spanish Prisoners, in a Valley, which is watered with a small River, that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce, in about 7 d. of North latitude. This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta: yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura arc landed at Payta, for the Bay ofChiropce is full of dangerous sholes, and therefore not frequented by shipping. The Road of Payta is one of the hot on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South- vest by a point of Land, which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in. There is room enough for a food Fleet of Ships, and good anchoring in any depth, m}m 6 fathom W^ater to 20 fathom. Right against the Town, the nearer the Town, the shallower the Water, and the smcK>ther the riding, it is clean Sand all over the Bay. Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for Water, for tho' here is none at the Town, yet those Indian Fisher-men of Colan will, and do supply all Ships very reasonably ; and Good Water is much pnsed on all this Coast through the scarcity of it. Norvcmber the 3d, at 6 a clock in the morning, our Men landed, about 4. Miles to the South of the Town, and look some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for far o( us; and these Prisoners said, that the Governor of Ptun came with 100 armed men to Payta the night before, 167 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. purposely to oppose our landing there, if we should '^^4 attempt it. Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the hill, and took it without the loss of one Man. Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men, and the Inhabitants of the Town, ran away as fast as they could. Then our Men entered the Town, and found it emptied both of Money and Goods ; there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them. The Prisoners told us a Ship^ had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road, but did not land their Men; and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots. We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this, and by these circum- stances we supposed he was gone to the East-Indies,^ it being always designed by him. The Prisoners told us also, That since Capt. Eaton was here, a small Bark had been off the Harbour, and taken a pair of Bark-logs a Fishing, and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh Water. This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Capt. Eaton. In the Evening we came in with our Ships, and Anchored before the Town in 10 fathom Water, near a Mile from the shore. Here we staid till the sixth day, in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town. Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower, 3000 Pound of Sugar, 25 Jars of Wine, and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us; but we got nothing of it. Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fired, which was presently done. Then all our Men came aboard, and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded, to be burnt, because she did not sail well. * This was John Eaton's ship. "We stood into Paita Bay," says Cowley (his sailing master), "where we took two Ships at an Anchor; bul the Spaniards would not ransom them, nor give us any Thing for Them ; which enraged our Captain to that Degree, that he commanded our Men either to sink or burn them ; which was our farewell to that Coast." This must have been seven or eight weeks before Dampier's party came there. -^ The supposition was correct. Eaton went to the Isle of Plata for »vood and water, and then "steer'd away W.N.W.," and went ashore no more till he made the Ladrones. 168 ISLE OF LOBOS DE TERRA At Night, when the Land-wind came off, we sailed aw. from hence towards Lobes. The lOth day in the Even- '^ ing we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck. We immediately chased, separating our selves, the better to meet her in the Night ; but we mist her. Therefore the next Morning we again trimm'd sharp, ajid made the best of our way to the l^^obos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra: It bore East from us; wc stood in towards it, and betwixt 7 and 8 a CliKk in the Night tame to an Anchor at the N. E. end of the Island, in 4 fathom Water. This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height, and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a Mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock, and a g<>ixi ^bfUinel between, where there is 7 fathom Water. The ^■h day we went ashore, and fountl abundance of Penguins Bg Boobies, and Seal in great [Quantities. We sent aboard OT^all these to be drcst, for we had not tasted any Klesh in a great while before ; therefore some of us did eat vt-ry heartily. Capt. Swan, to encourage his Men to cat this course Flesh, would commend it for extraordinary good Fo»xi, comparing the Seal in a roasted Pig, the Boobies to Hens, and the Penguins to Ducks : this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat, not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such Food before we departed out of these Seas; for it is generally seen among Privateers, that nothing emboldens them sooner to mutiny than want, which we could not well suffer in a place where there are .such i^uantities of these Animals to be had, if n could be perswadcd to be content with them, Jn the Afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra ; with I Wind at S. by E. and arriv'd at Lobos de la Mar on ! 19th day. Here wc found a Letter, left by our Bark t was sent to seek Capt. Eaton, by which wc understood, t Capt. Eaton had been there, but was gone before they Bved, and had left no Letter to advise us which way he i gone ; and that our Bark was again return'd to Plata, Ehopes to find us there, or meet us by the way, else 169 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. resolving to stay for us there. We were sorry to hear that '^^4 Capt. Eaton was gone, for now we did not expect to meet with him any more in these Seas. The 2 1st day we sent out our Moskito Strikers for Turtle, who brought aboard enough to serve both Ships Companies ; and this they did all the time that we abode here. While we lay at this Island, Capt. Swan made new Yards, squarer^ than those he had before, and made hi!& Sails larger, and our Ships Company in the mean time split: Plank tor Fire-wood, and put aboard as many Planks as we could conveniently stow, for other uses: Here being Plank enough of all sorts, which we had brought hither in the first Prize that we took, and left here. The 26th day in the evening, we saw a small Bark about 3 Leagues N. N. W. from the Island, but we sup- posing her to be our own Bark, did not go after her. The next Morning she was two Leagues South of the Island, standing ofF to Sea ; but we did not now chace her neither, altho* we knew she was not our Bark ; for being to Wind- ward of us, she could have made her escape, if we had chaced her. This Bark, as we were afterward informed, was sent out purposely to see if we were at this Island. Her Orders were, not to come too near, only to appear in sight ; they supposing that if we were here we should soon be after her ; as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her : But our not doing so, and lying close under the Island undiscern'd by them, was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards unexpectedly, they being now without fear of any Enemy so near them. The 28th day we scrubbed our Ships bottom, intend- ing to sail the next day towards Guiaquil ; it being con- cluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata. Accordingly, on the 29th day in the Morning, we loosed from hence, steering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil. This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South side, and Point Chandy* on the North. About 25 Leagues from C. Blanco, near the bottom of » Longer. ^ Point St. Helena. 170 ISLE OF ST. CLARA— CAT-FISH the Bsy, there is a small Island called Santa Clara, which lies East and West: It is of an indiflFcrenl length, and it appears like a dead Man stretched out in a Shroud. The East end represents the Head, and the West end the Feet. Ships that are bound into the River of Guiaquil pass on the South-side, to avoid the sholcs which lie on the North- side of it ; whereon formerly Ship have been lost. It is reported by the Spaniards, that there is a very rich Wreck ' lies on the North-side of that Island, not far from it ; and that some of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain, with a Patent from the King to fish in those Seas for Wrecks ; but he dying, the Project ceased, and the Wreck still remains as he left tl ; only the Indians by stealth do sometimes take up some of it ; and they might have taken up much more, if it were not for the Cat-fish* which swarms hereabouts. The Cat-fish is much like a Whiting, but the Head is flatter and bigger. It hath a great wide Mouth, and certain small Strings pointing out from each side of it, like Cats Whiskers; and for that reason it is call'd a Cat-fish. It hath three Fins ; one growing on the top of his back, and one on either side. Each of these Fins hath a stiff sharp Bone, which is very venomous if it strikes into a Man s Flesh ; therefore it ts dangerous diving where many of these Fish are. The Indians that adventured to search this Wreck, have to their sorrow experienced it ; some having lost their Lives, others the use of their Limbs by it : this we were informed by an Indian, who himself had been fishing on it by stealth. I my self have known some ■white Men that have lost the use of their Hands, only by a small prick with the Fin of these Fish : Therefore when we catch them with a Hook, we tread on them to take the Hook out of their Mouths, for otherwise, In flurting about (as all Fish will when first taken) they might accidentally strike their sharp Fins into the Hands of those that caught ' "With scveniy brass guns," and " no less ihari iliirty million dollars, or pieces of eight," abcuiTd her, She seems to have run aground on Cape Flyaway. ' The common cat-fish : P. atm. 171 CAPTAIN DAM PIERS VOYAGES \N. them. Some of these Fish are 7 or 8 pound weight; some ''**^-* agiiin, in some particular Places, are none of them bi^er than a Man's Thumb, but their F'ins are all alike venomous. They use to be at the Mouths of Rivers, or where there is much Muil and (Jaze, and they arc found all over the American Coast, both in the North and South Sea, at least in the hot Countries, as also in the East-Indies: where sailing with Captain Minchin among certain Islands near the Streights of Malacca, he pointed to an Island, at which he t'>Ul me he lost the use of his Hand bv one of these, only in U'^ing to take the Hook out of its mouth. The wound was scarce visible, vet his Hand was much swoln, aiivl the pain lasted about 9 weeks; during most part of which the raging heat of it was almost ready to distract him. However, though the Bony Fins of these Fish are so venomous, yet the Bones in their Bodies are not so; at least we never perceived any such efFect in eating the Fish; and their Flesh is very sweet, delicious and wholesome Meat. Fr<»m the Island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues F. N. F. This Punta Arena, or Sandy Point, is the Wester- mo t point of the Island Puna. Here all Ships bound into the River of (iuiaquil anchor, and must wait for a Pilot, the entrance Ixring very dangerous for Strangers. The Inland Puna is a pretty large flat low Island, stretching Flast and West about 12 or 14 leagues long, and about 4 or 5 leagues wide. The Tide runs ver>* strtMig all about this Island, but so many different ways, bv reason of the Branches, Creeks, and Rivers that run into the Se.i near it, that it casts up many dangerous sholes on all sides of it. There is in the Island only one Indian Town on the South-side of it, close by the Sea, and 7 leagues from Point Arena, which Town is also called Puna. The Indians of this Town are all Seamen, and are the only Pilots in thei-e Seas, especially for this River. Their chief- est employment, when they are not at Sea, is fishing. These Men are obliged by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Sliips that anchor at Point Arena; which, as I said before, is 7 leagues from the Town Puna. The 172 PUNA— PALMETO-TREE •e ihcy keep this waich is at a Point u( the Island Puna, that starts uut into the Sea ; from whence they can see all Ships that anchor at Point Arena. The 'ndians came thither in the morning, and return at night 1 Horseback. From this watching Point to Point Arena ii 4 leagues, all drowned Mangrove-land : and in the btdway between these two I'oints is another small Point, vhere these Indians are oblig'd to keep another Watch, ■hen they fear an Enemy. The Centinel goes thither in a ADoa in the morning, and returns at night ; for there is no ning thither by Land, through that Mangrove marshy [round. The middle of the Island Puna is Savannah or ^sture. There are some ridges of good Woodland, which I of a light yellow nr sandy Mould, producing large tall Trees, most unknown even to Travellers: Bui there arc plenty of Palnieto-Trces, which, because I am acquainted fith, ! shall describe. The Palmeto-Trcc is about the bigness of an ordinary Ash : It is about 30 foot high ; the dy straight, without any limb, or branch, or leaf, except t the head only, where it spreads forth into many small inches, not half so big as a Mans Arm, some no bigger ones Finger : These branches are about 3 or 4 foot tong, clear from any knot : At the end of the branch there [Toweth one broad leaf, about the bigness of a large Fan. "his, when it first shoots forth, grows in folds, like a Fan when it is closed ; and still as it grows bigger so it opens, till it becomes like a Fan spread abroad. It is strcngthncd ^HCowards the stalk with many small ribs springing from ^■thence, and growing into the leaf; which as they grow ^Kiear the end of the leaf, grow thinner and smaller. The ^^leaves that make the brush part of the Flag-brooms which are brought into England, grow just in this manner ; and are indeed a small kind of Palraeto ; for there are of them of several dimensions. Jn Bermudas, and elsewhere, they make Hats, Baskets, Brnnms, Fans to blow the fire instead of Bellows, with many other House-implements, of Palmcto- teives. On the Ridges where these Trees grow, the Indians pve here and there Plantations of Maiz, Yams, and i CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houses, and '^^ a small Church. The Houses stand all on Posts, 10 or 12 foot high, with Ladders on the outside to go up into them. I did never see the like Building any where but among the Malayans in the East-Indies. They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves, and their Chambers well boarded, in which last they exceed the Malayans. The best place for Ships to lie at an Anchor is against the middle of the Town. There is 5 fathom water within a Cables length of the shore, and good soft deep Oaze where ships may careen, or hale ashore ; it flows 15 or 16 foot Water up and down. From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues. It is i league before you come to the River of Guiaquil's mouth, where it is above two mile wide ; from thence upwards the River lies pretty streight, without any considerable turnings. Both sides of the River are low swampy Land, over-grown with Red Mangroves, so that there is no landing. Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil, there's a low Island standing in the River. This Island divides the River into two parts, making 2 very fair Channels for Ships to pass up and down. The S. W. Channel is the widest, the other is as deep, but narrower and narrower yet, by reason of many Trees and Bushes, which spread over the River, both from the Main and from the Island ; and there are also several great stumps of Trees standing upright in the Water, on either side. The Island is above a mile long. From the upper part of the Island to the Town of Guiaquil, is almost a league, and near as much from one side of the River to the other. In that spacious place Ships of the greatest burthen may ride afloat ; but the best place for ships is nearest to that part of the Land where the Town stands; and this place is seldom without Ships. Guiaquil stands facing the Island, close by the River, partly on the side, and partly at the Foot of a gentle Hill declining towards the River, by which the lower part of it is often overflown. There are two Forts, one standing on the low Ground, the other on the Hill. This Town makes a very fine prospect, it being beautifi'd with several Churches and other good Buildings. 174 CACAO— SARSAPARILLA jjere lives a Governor, who, as I have been informed, hath aw.' Patent from the King of Spain. Guiaquil may be '*''^ fCkoned one of the chiefest Sea-Ports in the South Seas: ; Commodities which arc exported from hence arc Cacao, udes. Tallow, SarsaparilU, and other Drugs, and WooUcn- iDth, commonly called Cloth of Quito. The Cacau grows on both sides of the River above the lown. It is a small Nut, like theCampeachy Nut : I think, ^c smallest of the two ; they produce as much CaoiO : as serves all the Kingdom of Peru ; and much of it is bt to Acapuico, and from thence to the Philippine Islands. Sarsaparilla grows in the Water hy the sides of the iver, as I have been informed. The Quito Cloth comes from a rich Town in the untry within Land called Quito, There is a great deal ■de, both Serges and Broad-Cloth. This Cloth is not fine, but it is worn by the common sort of People ■oughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This, and all her Commodities, which come from Quito, arc shipt off : Guiaquil for other Parts; and all imported Goods for lie City of Quito pass by Guiaquil: By which it may _>ear that Guiaquil is a Place of no mean Trade. Quito, as I have been informed, is a very populous City, ■ted in the heart of the Country. It is inhabited partly Spaniards ; but the major part of its Inhabitants are dians, under the Spanish Government. It is environed with Mountains of a vast heighth, from hose bowels many great Rivers have their rise. These fountains abound in Gold, which by violent Rains is ish'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks, where the dians resort in Troops, washing away the Sand, and ■tting up the Gold-dust in their Calabashes or Gourd iclls : But for the manner of gathering the Gold I refer I to Mr. Wafer's Book : ' only I shall remark here, that "The of their getting gold is c f full of Sand, which they draw gently out of the Water; and al every ping they lake up Cold mix'd with the Sand and Wniet, more or less, > they shake and the Sand ri^eth, and goes over the Brims of the I with the Water ; but the Gold settles to ihe bouom. This done, '75 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYACJES AN. Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru that abounds '^** most with this rich Metal, as I have been often informed. The Country is subject to great Rains, and very thick Fogs, especially the Valleys. For that reason it is very unwholsome and sickly. The chiefest Distempers are Fevers, violent Head-ach, Pains in the Bowels, and Fluxes. I know no place where Gold is found but what is very unhealthy : as I shall more particularly relate when I come to speak of Achin in the Isle of Sumatra in the East* Indies. Guiaquil is not so sickly as Quito and other Towns farther within Land ; yet in comparison with the Towns that are on the Coast of Mare Pacifico, South of Cape Blanco, it is very sickly. It was to this Town of Guiaquil that we were bound, therefore we left our Ships off Cape Blanco, and ran into the Bay of Guiaquil with our Bark and Canoas, steering in for the Island Santa Clara, where we arrived the next day after we left our Ships, and from thence we sent away two Canoas the next evening to Point Arena. At this Point there are abundance of Oysters, and other Shell-fish, as Cockles and Muscles ; therefore the Indians of Puna often come hither to get these Fish. Our Canoas got over before day, and absconded in a Creek, to wait for the coming of the Puna Indians. The next morning some of them, according to their custom, came thither on Bark- logs, at the latter part of the Ebb, and were all taken by our Men. The next day, by their advice, the two Watch- men of the Indian Town Puna were taken by our Men, and all its Inhabitants, not one escaping. The next Ebb they took a small Bark laden with Quito-cloth She came from Guiaquil that Tide, and was bound to Lima, they having advice that we were gone off the Coast, by the Bark which I said we saw while we lay at the Island Lobos. The Master of this Cloth-bark informed our Men, that they bring it out and dry it in the Sun, and then pound it in a Mortar. Then they take it out and spread it on Paper, and having a Loadstone they move that over it, which draws all the Iron, etc., from it, and then leaves the Gold clean from Ore or Filth; and this they bottle up in (lourds or Calabashes. In this manner they work during tlie dry Season, which is three Months."— /-/V?//^*/ lVafcf\, pp. 31, 32 ; ed. 1699. 176 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. two Barks were Mann'd with Spanish Soldiers, and sent 1684 ^.Q ^^i^g Qm. Ships, and therefore they fired 3 Guns at them a league before they came near. The two Spanish Barks immediately came to an Anchor, and the Masters got into their Boats, and rowed for the shore ; but our Gtnoa that was sent from us took them both. The firing of these 3 Guns made a great disorder among our advanced Men/ for most of them did believe they were heard at Guiaquil, and that therefore it could be no profit to lie still in the Creek ; but either row away to the Town, or back again to our Ships. It was now quarter ebb, therefore we could not move upwards, if we had been disposed so to do. At length Captain Davis said, he would immediately land in the Creek where they lay, and march directly to the Town, if but 40 men would accompany him : and without saying more words, he landed among the Mangroves in the Marshes. Those that were so minded followed him, to the number of 40 or 50. Captain Swan lay still with the rest of the Party in the Creek, for they thought it impossible to do any good that way. Captain Davis and his Men were absent about 4 hours, and then returned all wet, and quite tired, and could not find any passage out into the firm Land. He had been so far, that he almost despaired of getting back again : for a Man cannot pass thro* those red Mangroves but with very much labour. When Captain Davis was return'd, we concluded to be going towards the Town the beginning of the next flood ; and if we found that the Town was alarm'd, we purposed to return again without attempting any thing there. As soon as it was flood we rowed away, and passed by the Island thro' the N. E. Channel, which is the narrowest. There are so many Stumps in the River, that it is very dangerous passing in the night (and that is the time we always take for such Attempts) for the River runs very swift, and one of our Canoas stuck on a Stump, and had certainly overset, if she had not been immediately rescued by others. When we were come almost to the end of the Island, there was a * " Davis and Swan being in the Creeke when the Guns fired, were ready to eat their Guns for Madd" (Original MS,^ f. 140). 178 I TOWN OF GUIAQUIL ATTEMPTED ■ BCusquct &re(] at us out of the Bushes on the Main. We am. ^■en had the Town open before us, and presently saw '^* ^^hicd Torches, or Candles, all the Town over ; whereas ^Efore the Gtin was fired there was but one Light : there- ^we we now concluded we were discovered : Yet many of ^Hr Men said, that it was a Holy-day the next day, as it ^Ks indeed, and that therefore the Spaniards were making ^ft'e-works, whii:h they often do in the night against such ^Bies. We rowed therefore a little farther, and found ^Bm Land, and Captain Davis pitched his Canua ashore ^HJ landed with his Men. Captain Swan, and most of his ^Ben, did not think it convenient to attempt any thing, ^fting the Town was alarmed ; but at last, being upbraided ^Bth Cowardize, Captain Swan and his Men landed also. ^Bie place where we landed was about 2 mile from the ^K)Wn : it was alt overgrown with Woods so thick, that we ^■uld not march through in the Night ; and therefore we ^Bt down, waiting for the light of the Day. We had two ^Bdian Pilots with us; one that had been with us a Month, ^Hio having received some Abuses from a Gentleman of ^Biiaquil, to be revenged oiFcred his Service to us, and ^K found him very faithful: The other was taken by us ^Bt above 2 or 3 days before, and he seemed to be as filling as the other to assist us. This latter was led by ^Be of Captain Davis's Men, who shewed himself very ^^rward to go to the Town, and upbraided others with ^■nt-heartedncss: Yet this Man (as he afterwards con- ^Bsed) notwithijtanding his Courage, privately cut the ^King that the Guide was made fast with, and let him go ^Bthe Town by himself, not caring to follow him; but ^■len he thought the Guide was got far enough from us, ^K cried out that the Pilot was gone, and that some Body ^Bd cut the Cord that tied him. This put every Man in a ^■Dving Posture to seek the Indian, but all in vain ; and ^Br Consternation was great, being in the dark and among ^iFoods ; so the design was wholly dashed, for not a Man ■ after that had the heart to speak of going farther. Here we staid till day. and then rowed out into the middle of the River, where we had a fair view of the Town ; whi ch, WL >79 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. as I said before, makes a very pleasant prospect. We lay 1684 g^yi about half an Hour, being a mile, or something better, from the Town. They did not fire one Gun at us, nor wc at them. Thus our design on Guiaquil failM : yet Captain Town ley, and Capt. Francois Gronet* took it a little while after this. When we had taken a full view of the Town, we rowed over the River, where we went ashore to a Beef Estantion or Farm, and kill'd a Cow, which we drest and eat. We staid there till the Evening Tide of Ebb, and then rowed down the River, and the 9th day in the Morning arrived at Puna. In our way thither we went aboard the 3 Barks laden with Negroes, that lay at their Anchor in the River, and carried the Barks away with us. There .were 1000 Negroes in the 3 Barks, all lusty young Men and Women. When we came to Puna, we sent a Canoa to Point Arena, to see if the Ships were come thither. The 12th day she returned again, with tydings that they were both there at Anchor. Therefore in the Afternoon we all went aboard of our Ships, and carry'd the Cloth-bark with us, and about 40 of the stoutest Negro-men, leaving their 3 Barks with the rest ; and out of these also Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan chose about 14 or 1 5 apiece, and turn'd the rest ashore. There was never a greater opportunity put into the Hands of Men to enrich themselves than we had, to have gone with these Negroes, and settled our selves at Santa Maria, on the Isthmus of Darien, and employed them in getting Gold out of the Mines there. Which might have been done with ease : For about 6 Months before this, Captain Harris (who was now with us) coming over Land from the North Seas, with his Body of Privateers, had routed the Spaniards away from the Town and Gold-Mines of Santa Maria," so that they had never attempted to settle there again since : Add to this, that the Indian Neighbourhood, who were mortal Enemies to the Spaniards, and had been flush'd by their Successes against them, through the assist- * These two captains are mentioned in Chapter VII. Their ver>' im- perfect histories will be found in the Appendix. - See Appendix. 180 NEGROES TAKEN ke of the IVivatccrs, for several years, were our fast ak. , »d«, and ready to receive and assist us. We had, as I '***| tsaid lOOO Negroes to work for us, we had 200 Tun of rwtr that lay at the Gallapagos, there was the River of hnia Maria, where we could careen and dt our Ships ; and i^bi foftific the mouth so, that if all the strength the Kiiinls have in Peru had come against us, we could have I them out. ]f they lay with Guard-shi[TS of Strength sap us in, yet we had a great Country to live in, and a Int Nation of Indians that were our Friends : Beside, h WIS the principal thing, we had the North Seas to nd us; from whence wc could export ourselves, or I, or import Goods or Men to our assistance ; for in a I time wc should have had assistance from all parts r the Wcsl-Indies ; many thousands of Privateers from UJca and the Ktvnch Islands especially would have [kt over to us ; and long before this time we might t been Masters not only of those Mines, (the richest li-Mines ever yet found in America) but of all the Omt as high as Quito : And much more than 1 say mfitt (hen probably have been done. Bat these may seem to the Reader but Golden Dreams : I leave them therefore; The 13th day we sailed from ini Arena towards Plata, to seek our Bark that was sent ■(be Island Lobc«, in search of Captain Eaton. We were ship* in Company, and 2 Barks; and the i6th day we Woi at Plata, but found no Bark there, nor any Letter. E acst day we went over to the Main to fill Water, and ntr Pi^sage met our Bark : she had been a second time Libnd Lobos, and not finding us, was coming to I again. They had been in some want of Provision [ tbcy left us, and therefore they had been at Santa na, and taken it ; where they got as much Maize as I them J or 4 days ; and that, with some Fish and e which they struck, lasted them till they came to the J Lobos dc Terra, They got Boobies and Penguins L of which ihcy laid in a store; and went from thence ofaos de Ja Mar, where they replenished their stock of L and salted up a few young Seal, for fear they should CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. want : And being thus victualled, they returned again 1684 towards Plata. When our Water was fiird we went over again to the Island Plata. There we parted the Cloths that were taken in the Cloth-Bark into two Lots or Shares ; Captain Davis and his Men had one part, and Captain Swan and his Men had the other part. The Bark which the Cloth was in Captain Swan kept for a Tender. At this time there were at Plata a great many large Turtles, which I judge came from the Gallapagos for I had never seen any here before, tho' I had been here several times. This was their Coupling-Time, which is much sooner in the Year here than in the West-Indies, properly so called. Our Strikers brought aboard every day more than we could eat. Captain Swan had no Striker, and therefore had no Turtle but what was sent him from Captain Davis; and all his Flour too he had from Captain Davis : but since our dis- appointment at Guiaquil, Captain Davis's Men murmured against Captain Swan, and did not willingly give him any Provision, because he was not so forward to go thither as Captain Davis. However, at last, these differences were made up, and we concluded to go into the Bay of Panama, to a Town called La Velia ; but because we had not Canoas enough to land our Men, we were resolved to search some Rivers where the Spaniards have no Commerce, there to get Indian Canoas. 182 CHAP. VII I kmw llu hit if Plata. Cap* Paisae. Thr Comt I'dwecn that mmd C»ft Si. Frandtto ; and from thtnct on U Pamima. The Rrwr 9/ St. Jaga. Thi Red and tht IVhitr Cettsn-lrtr. The Cahicp-trff. The Indians af St. Jago River, and its Ntigbbeur- kmd. The tile »f Gaih. The River and Village of Tomaco. hit if G*rg$aia, The Pearl-Oystrrs there and in other parts. The l^nJ tu tht .^ain. Cape Cerientei. Point Garachina. Island G^lUrm. Tkf King,, tr Pear! blandly Pacheque. St. PauPs liiami, UveSa. Nala. The Clam-fish. Oysters. The pltosont Prttpttti !i tht Bay tf Panama. Old Panama. The New City. TJit Great Ccneouru there from Lima and Portabel, S-t. upon the Arrival of the Spanish Armada in the IVest Indies. The Course tkt jlrmitda taiet ; uiith an incidental Account of tht first induce- maUi thai made tht Privateers undertake the passage over tht lahmat *f DaritH into the South Seas, and of the particular hegin- wf f/ their eorresptndemt tvith the Indians thai inhabit that lithmmi. Of tht Air and fVeathrr at Panama. The Isles ofPtrico. Ttimgt, a pJraiant Island. The Mammee-tree. The Village TiiiogK A Spanifh Stratagem or two, of Capt. Band their Ewfinttr. Tht Ignorance of tht Spaniards of these parts in Sea 'ftdrt. A party of French Privalttri arrive from over Land. Of tht Ctmmiuiont thai are given out hy the French Govemour of Pttit-Gmavrrt. Of the Gulf of St. Michael, and ike Rivers of Ci^u^ Saintt, and Sta. Maria : and an Error of the common Mmi, in tht placing Point Garachina and Cape St. L«renxo, cfrerteA. Of the Town and Gold Mines of Sta. Maria ; and tht Ttwn $/ S€itthader». Capt. Touinlty*s Arrival with some more BtgSii, Prrvattrri over Land. Jars of PiicO'fVine. A Hark of I'm Xttigkf'tJ^''" *^^"' P^'tt Garachina again. Porta dt Pinas, /^ ^ Ol^aii*. 7***- Poe^utt from Lima taken. Other English 'tdFrtmth Priveitttri arrive. Chepelio, one of tht sweetest Islands 183 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES in the JVorld. The Sapadilloy Avogato Pear^ Afammee Sappota. Jf^ild Mammee and ^tar- Apple. Cheapo River and Town. Some Traversings in the Bay of Panama ; and an account of the Strength of the Spanish Fleety and of the Privateers^ and the Engagement between them, AN. T ■ ^HE 23d day of December, 1684, we sailed from '^-^ I the Island Plata, towards the Bay of Panama: I The Wind at S. S. £. a fine brisk gale, and fine ^ Weather. The next Morning we past by Cape Passao. This Cape is in lat. 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equator. It runs out into the Sea with a high round Point, which seems to be divided in the midst. It is bald against the Sea, but within Land, and on both sides, it is full of short Trees. The Land in the Country is very high and mountainous, and it appears to be very woody. Between Cape Passao and Cape St. Francisco, the Land by the Sea is full of small Points, making as many little sandy Bays between them ; and is of an indiflerent heighth, covered with Trees of divers sorts ; so that sailing by this Coast you see nothing but a vast Grove or Wood ; which, is so much the more pleasant, because the Trees are of several Forms, both in respect to their Growth and Colour. Our design was, as I said in my first Chapter, to search for Canoas in some River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement or Trade with the native Indians. We had Spanish Pilots, and Indians bred under the Spaniards, who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards, but were wholly unacquainted with those Rivers which were not frequented by the Spaniards. There are many such unfrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama : Indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St. Michaels, or even to Panama it self, the Coast is not in- habited by any Spaniards, nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way under their subjection : except only near the Isle Gallo, where, on the Banks of a Gold River or two, there are some Spaniards who work there to find Gold. Now our Pilots being at a loss on these less frequented Coasts, we supply'd that defect out of the Spanish Pilot- 184 ■ RIVER OF ST. JAGO Vtoks, which wc took in their Ships : These we found by . experience to be very good Guides. Yet nevertheless the ' Country in many Places by the Sea being low, and full of 'Openings, Creeks and Rivers, it is somewhat difficult to -iJ any particular River that a Man designs to go to, '^herv he is not well acquainted. This however could be no discouragement to us ; for OAf River might probably be as well furnished with Indian CuKMS as another; and if we found them, it was to us indiffcrtnl where, yet we pitcht on the River St. Jago, DOC because there were not other Rivers as large, and a» bkely to be inhabited with Indians as it; but because that RhrcT was not far from Gallo, an Island where our Ships could anchor safely and ride securely. We past by Cape Sc Frandsco, meeting with great and continued Rains, r Land by the Sea to the North of the Cape, is low and dinary woody ; the Trees are very thick, and seem » be of a prodigious height and bigness. From Cape St. jco the Land runs more Easterly into the Bay of tatna. 1 take this Cape to he its Bounds on the South , and the Isles of Cobaya or Quibo to bound it on the iidc. Between this Cape and the Isle Gallo there are -may large and navigable Rivers. We past by them all ■;ll we came to the River St. Jago. This River is near a d- North of the Equator. It is Izr^ and navigable some leagues up, and 7 leagues from :ne Sea it divides itself into two parts, making an Island that is 4 leagues wide against the Sea. The widest branch H that on the S. W. side of the Island. Both Branches are 'rry deep, but the mouth of the narrower is so choakt with ifaoies that at low water, even Canoas can't enter. Above th« lilaod it is a league wide, and the Stream runs pretty urugbt. and very swift. The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River, but to what height I know not. Probably •he River hath its original from some of the rich Mountains near the City ^ibo, and it runs through a Country as rich J a Soil, as perhaps any in the World, especially when it 1 dnw* within 10 or J 2 leagues of the Sea. The Land there m t>Mh on the Island, and on both sides of the River, is of a k 185 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. black deep Mold, producing extraordinary great tall Trees '^^"^ of many sorts, such as usually grow in these hot Climates. I shall only give an account of the Cotton and Cabbage- trees, whereof there is great plenty ; and they are as large of their kinds as ever I saw. There are two sorts of Cotton-trees,^ one is called the Red, the other the White Cotton-tree. The White Cotton- tree grows like an Oak, but generally much bigger and taller than our Oaks : The body is straight and clear from knots or boughs to the very head : there it spreads forth many great limbs just like an Oak. The Bark is smooth and of a grey colour : the Leaves are as big as a large Plumb-Leaf, jagged at the edge ; they are oval, smooth, and of a dark green colour. Some of these Trees have their bodies much bigger, 1 8 or 20 foot high, than nearer the Ground, being big-bellied like Nine-pins. They bear a very fine sort c«F Cotton, called Silk-Cotton. When this Cotton is ripe, the Trees appear like our Apple-trees in England, when full of Blossoms. If I do not mistake, the Cotton falls down in November, or December : then the Ground is covered white with it. This is not substantial and continuous, like that which grows upon the Cotton-shrubs, in Plantations, but like the Down of Thistles ; so that I did never know any use made of it in the West-Indies, because it is not worth the Labour of gathering it : but in the East-Indies the Natives gather and use it for Pillows. It hath a small black Seed among it. The Leaves of this Tree fall ofF the beginning of April ; while the old Leaves are falling ofF, the young ones spring out, and in a weeks time the Tree casts off her old Robes, and is cloathed in a new pleasant Garb. The red Cotton-tree is like the other, but hardly so big : it bears no Cotton, but its Wood is somewhat harder of the two, yet both sorts are soft spungy Wood, fit for no use that I know, but only for Canoas, which being strait and tall they are very good for ; but they will not last long, especially if not drawn ashore often and tarred ; otherwise the Worm and the Water soon rot them. They * Cotton trees : Bombax pctandrum and B, samauma, 186 CABBAGE-TREES I the biggest Trees, or perhaps Weeds rather, in the West- aii.\ Fney are common in the East and West-Indies good fat LJind. A* the Cotton is the biggest Tree in the Woods, so the C»bbage-trec ' is the tallest: The Body is not very big, but very high and strait. I have measured one in the B»y of Campcachy 120 feet long as it lay on the Ground, and there are some much higher. It has no Limbs nor Boughs, but at the head there are many Branches bigger than a Man's Arm. These Branches are oot covered, but flat, with sharp edges; they are 12 or 14 fool long. About two foot from the Trunk, the Branches shoot forth small long Leaves, about an Inch broad, which grow so regularly on both sides of the Branch, that the whole Branch seems to he but one Leaf, nude up of many small ones. The Cabbage Fruit shoots out in the midst of these Branches, from the top of the Tree ; it is invested with many young Leaves or Branches -vhicfa arc ready to spread abroad, as the old Branches Jrop and fall down. The Cabbage it self, when it is ;akcn out of the Leaves which it seems to be folded in, ■.i as big as the small of a Man's Leg, and a foot long ; it Tt IS white as Milk, and as sweet as a Nut, if eaten raw, ifld it is very sweet and wholesom if boiled. Besides, the Cabbage it self, there grow out between the Cabbage and the large Branches, small Twigs, as of a Shrub, about two foot long from their Stump. At the end of those Twigs (which grow very thick together) there hang Bemcs hard and round, and as big as a Cherry. These the Tree sheds every year, and they are very good for Hogs: fof this reason the Spaniards fine any who shall cut down any of these in their Wootis, The body of the Tree is fuJJ of rings round it, half a foot asunder frum the bottom 10 the top. The Bark is thin and brittle ; the Wood is black and very hard, the heart or middle of the Tree is vbitc Pith. They do not climb to get the Cabbage, but ■t diem down ; for should they gather it off the Tree as Tbc cabbatjc tiec ; EuUrpi cduiis. 187 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. it Stands, yet its head being gone, it soon dies. These 1684 Trees are much used by Planters in Jamaica, to board the sides of the Houses, for it is but splitting the Trunk into four parts with an Axe, and there are so many Planks. Those Trees appear very pleasant, and they beautifie the whole Wood, spreading their green Branches above all other Trees. All this Country is subject to very great Rains, so that this part of Peru pays for the dry Weather which they have about Lima and all that Coast. I believe that is one reason why the Spaniards have made such small discoveries, in this and other Rivers on this Coast. Another reason may be, because it lies not so directly in their way ; for they do not coast it along in going from Panama to Lima, but first go Westward as far as to the Keys or Isles of Cobaya, for a westerly Wind, and from thence stand over towards Cape St. Francisco, not touching any where usually, till they come to Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo. In their return indeed from Lima to Panama, they may keep along the Coast hereabouts ; but then their Ships are always laden, whereas the light Ships that go from Panama, are most at leisure to make discoveries. A third Reason may be, the wildness and enmity of all the Natives on this Coast, who are naturally fortified by their Rivers and vast Woods, from whence with their Arrows they can easily annoy any that shall land there to assault them. At this River particularly there are no Indians live within 6 leagues of the Sea, and all the Country so far is full of impassable Woods ; so that to get at the Indians, or the Mines and Mountains, there is no way but by rowing up the River; and if any who are Enemies to the Natives attempt this, (as the Spaniards are always hated by them) they must all the way be exposed to the Arrows of those who would lie purposely in Ambush in the Woods for them. These wild Indians have small Plantations of Maiz, and good Plantain-Gardens ; for Plantains are their chiefest food. They have also a few Fowls and Hogs. It was to this River that we were bound, to seek for Canoas, therefore the 26th supposing our selves to be abrest 188 '^ ST. JAGO RIVER— HOGS . wc went from our Ships with 4 Canoas. The 27th the half Flood into the morning we entered iBullcr branch of that River, and rowed up 6 leagues Icfare wc met any Inhabitants. There we found two imall Huts thatched with Palmeto Leaves. The Indians teeing us rowing towards their Houses, got their Wives and ■Ttle ones, with their Household-stuff, into their Canoas, "A paddled away faster then we could row; for we were " -ccd to keep in the middle of the River because of our 'ITS, but they with their Paddles kept close under the :''inks, mnd so had not the strength of the stream against .cm, as we had. These Huts were close by the River on —I East side of it, just against the end of the Island. We iw a great many other Houses a league from us on the ■her side of the River ; but the main stream into which • c were now come, seemed to be so swift, that we were iiraid to put over, for fear we should not be able to get ick again. We found only a Hf^, some Fowls and I'lintmins in the Huts: We killed the Hog and the Fowls, 'hkh were drest pixsently. Their Hogs they got (as I sup- V>«e) from the Spaniards by some accident, or from some Ndghbouring Indians who converse with the Spaniards; I I'ljr this that wc took was of their European kind, which I Ac Spaniards have introduced into America very plenti- t'lillv, especially into the Islands Jamaica, Hispaniola, and tab* above alt, being very largely stored with them ; ■here they feed in the Woods in the day time, and at ':gl!lt come in at the sounding of a Conch-shell, and are :« up in their Crauls or Pens, and yet some turn wild, ■hjch oevcrthclcss are often decoyed in by the other, •Jtkh being all marked, whenever they see an unmarked Hof in the Pen they know it is a wild one, and shoot him iTMcnily. These Crauls I have not seen on the Continent ; 'here the Spaniards keep them tame at home. Among ■^ Wild Indians, or in their Woods, are no Hogs but ffcary and Warrcc, a sort I have mentioned before. After wc had refreshed our selves, we returned toward '-.c mouth of the River, It was the evening when we ome from thcfice, and wc got to the Rivers mouth the CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. next morning before day: Our Ships when we left them 1^*84 ^gj.g ordered to go to Gallo, where they were to stay for us. Gallo is a small uninhabited Island lying in between 2 and 3 Degrees North Lat. It lieth in a wide Bay about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Tomaco; and 4 leagues and half from a small Indian Village called Tomaco: The Island Gallo is of an indifferent heighth; it is cloathed with very good Timber Trees, and is there- fore often visited with Barks from Guiaquil and other places: for most of the Timber carryM from Guiaquil to Lima, is first fetcht from Gallo. There is a Spring of good Water at the N. E. end : at that place there is a fine small sandy Bay, where there is good landing. The Road for Ships is against this Bay, where there is good secure riding in 6 or 7 fathom water; and here Ships may careen. It is but shoal water all about this Island ; yet there is a Channel to come in at, where there is no less than 4 fathom water : You must go in with the Tydc of Flood, and come out with Ebb, sounding all the way. Tomaco is a large River that takes its name from an Indian Village so called : It is reported to spring from the rich Mountains about Quito. It is thick inhabited with Indians ; and there are some Spaniards that live there, who traffick with the Indians for Gold. It is shoal at the mouth of the River, yet Barks may enter. This Village Tomaco is but small, and is seated not far from the Mouth of the River. It is a place to enter- tain the Spanish Merchants that come to Gallo to load Timber, or to traffick with the Indians for Gold. At this place one Doleman,^ with 7 or 8 Men more, once of * About the middle of M.iy 1680. The bark (containing seven men) w.'is blown out of her course, and from her consorts, in a gale of wind. Wliile sailing; towards Goat Key, where they hoped to rejoin their comrades, these seven pirates landed on the Isle of Gallo and captured three white women. They stayed at Gallo for some days, making one or two descents upon the mainland to recruit their larders. One of the Spanish prisoners escaped, and contrived to raise a force of "fifty men with fire-arms." The pirates were ambushed by this squadron the next time they went ashore. Six of them were shot dead at the first volley. The seventh obtained quarter. Basil Ringrose tells the story, in the twelfth chapter of his published Journal. 190 ■ TOMACO TOWN I ^kpuin Slurp's Crew, were kill'd in the Year 1680. From amJ The Branch of the River St. Jago, where we now lay, to '"*fl Tatnaco, is about 5 Leagues ; the Land low, and full of ] Creeks, so that Canoas may pass within Land through I '. "»*e Creeks, and from thence into Tomaco River. The 28th Day we left the River uf St. Jago, crossing | some Creeks in our way with our Canoas; and came to an I Irwiiwi House, where we took the Man and all his Family. I We staid here till the Afternoon, and then rowed towards I Tomaco, with the Man of this House for our Guide. We 1 aniTed at Tomaco about 12 a clock at night. Here we I took all the Inhabitants of the Village, and a Spanish I Knight, called Don Diego de Pinas. This Knight came in 1 a Ship from Uma to lade Timber. The Ship was riding "m a Creek about a Mile off, and there were only one Spaniard and 8 Indians aboard. We went in a Canoa with J ~ Men, and took her; she had no Goods, but 12 or 13 | J»rs of good Wine, which we took out, and the next Day J •ct the ^ip go. Here an Indian Canoa came aboard with I •hree Men m her. These Men could not speak Spanish, I neither could they distinguish us from Spaniards ; the wild W Indians usually thinking all white Men to be Spaniards. We gare them 3 or 4 Callabashes of Wine, which they frwly drank. They were streight-bodted and well-limbed Men, (if a mean heighth ; their Hair black, long-visaged, tnuU No«e« and Eyes ; and were thin-fac'd, ill-look'd Men, I '/ ■ Tery dark Copper-colour. A little before night I Ciptain Swan and all of us return'd to Tomaco, and left 1 t^ Vc«»el to the Seamen. The 31st day two of our kLuou, who had been up the River of Tomaco, returned 1 Iwk igain to the Village. They had rowed 7 or 8 leagues tf, and found but one Spanish House, which they were | Md did belong to a Lady who lived at Lima ; she had 1 brvants here that traded with the Indians for Gold ; but I Icy *xing our Men coming, ran away : yet our Men I kukj there several Ounces of Gold in Calabashes. I The first day of January 1685, we went from Tomaco 1 '■'>w»rds Gallo. We carried the Knight with us and two I uiaJI Caotios which we took there, and while we were J 191 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AV. rowing over, one of our Canoas took a Pacquet-Boat that '^^3 was sent from Panama to Lima. The Spaniards threw the Pacquet of Letters overboard with a Line and a Buoy to it, but our Men seeing it took it up, and brought the Letters and all the Prisoners aboard our Ships, that were then at an Anchor at Gallo. Here we staid till the 6th day, reading the Letters, by which we understood that the Armada from Old Spain was come to Portabel : and that the President of Panama had sent this Pacquet on purpose to hasten the Plate Fleet thither from Lima. We were very joyful of this News, and therefore sent away the Pacquet-Boat with all her Letters; and we altered our former resolutions of going to Lavelia. We now concluded to careen our Ships as speedily as we could, that we might be ready to intercept this Fleet. The properest place that we could think on for doing it was among the Kings Islands or Pearl Keys,^ because they are near Panama, and all Ships bound to Panama from the Coast of Lima pass by them ; so that being there we could not possibly miss the Fleet. According to these resolu- tions we sailed the next Morning, in order to execute what we designed. We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company, viz. Captain Davis, Captain Swan, a Fire-ship, and 2 small Barks, as Tenders ; one on Captain Davis his Ship, the other on Captain Swan's. We weighed before day, and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender, which never budged ; for the Men were all asleep when we went out, and the Tide of Flood coming on before they waked, we were forced to stay for them till the next day. The 8th day in the morning we descried a Sail to the West of us ; the Wind was at South, and we chased her, and before noon took her. She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower ; she came from Truxillo, and was 1 Now the Pearl Islands. In 1574 when John Oxenham came into the South Seas (in a pinnace he had built on the isthmus), he concealed himself in a snug creek amon>| these islands, and set a watch upon the ( liff-tops for ships cominjf to Panama from Peru. He intercepted two rich ships before he attempted to recross the isthmus. He found some pearls, and pearl fisheries, on the islands, so that the name was not always undeserved as Dampier hints a few pages later. 192 GORGONIA ond to Panama. This Ship came very opportunely to , for Flower began to grow scarce, and Captain Davis his ' 1 grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan ; who, as I lid before, had none but what he had from Captain Davis. We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgnnia, an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island (nllo. The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia, on the West-side of the Island, in 38 fathom clean ground, not 2 Cables length from the shore. Gorgonia is an uninhabited Isbnd, in lat. about 3 degrees North : It is a pretty high island, and very remarkable, by reason of 2 Saddles,' or risings and fallings on the top. It is about 2 leagues long, and a league broad ; and it is 4 leagues from the Main : At the West-end is another small Island. The Land against the Anchoring place is low ; there is a small sandy Bay and good landing. The Soil or Mould of it is black and deep, in the low ground, but on the side of the high Land it is 1 kind of a red Clay. This Island is very well cloathed with Urge Trees of several sorts, that are flourishing and green all the year. It's very well watered with small Bn>oks that issue from the high Land. Here are a great iRanr little black Monkeys, some Indian Conies, and a few Snakes, which are all the Land Animals that I know there. It b reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the Year more or less ; but that I can disprove : However, it t« a very wet Coast, and it rains abundantly here all the Year long. There arc but few fair days ; for there is little diftrencc in the Seasons of the Year between the wet and dry; only in that Season which should be the dry time, tbe Rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the • CI Season, for then it pours as out of a Sieve. It is deep Witcr and no anchoring any where about this Island, only at the We«-sidc : The Tide riscth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up lad down. Here arc a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low Water. Then the Monkeys come down by the Se«-side and catch them ; digging them out of their Sbdls with their Claws. I ■ rh«ca vol- I. n ibc published version or KiiiKrose's Joi 193 ^ Mita CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Here are Pcarl-Oysters in great plenty : They grow to ^^5 the loose Rocks, in 4, 5 or 6 fathom Water by Beards, or little small Roots, as a Muscle: These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters; otherwise much alike in shape. The Fish is not sweet nor very wholsom ; it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail : they taste very copperish, if eaten raw, and are best boiled. The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards, hang the Meat of them on strings like Jews-ears,^ and dry them before they eat them. The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster, lying between the meat and the Shell. Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed- Pearl, some none at all, and some will have i or 2 ^pretty large ones. The inside of the Shell is more glorious than the Pearl it self. I did never see any in the South Seas but here. It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia. In the West-Indies, the Rancho Reys, or Rancheria, spoken of in Chap 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully. 'Tis said there are some at the Island Margarita, near St. Augustin, a Towh in the Gulf of Florida, &c. In the East-Indies, the Island Ainam, near the South end of China, is said to have plenty of these Oysters, more productive of large round Pearl than those in other places. They are found also in other parts of the East-Indies, and on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize, and found a few Boxes of Marmalade, and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy, which were equally shared between Captain Davis, Captain Swan, and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water, and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower : Afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place. The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands. We were now 6 Sail, 2 Men of War, 2 Tenders, a Fireship and the Prize. We had but little Wind, but what we had was the common Trade at South. The Land we sailed by on the Main, is very low towards the Sea-side, but in the Country there are very high Mountains. * Jews-ears : lichens. 194 THE KINGS, OR PEARL ISLANDS The 1 6th day wc passed by Cape Corrientes. This an. Cipc is in Ut. 5 d. lo ni. it is high bluff Land, with 3 or 4 "^^5 unall Hillocks on the top. It appears at a distance like an ItUnd. Here wc found a strong current nmning to the N. buc whether it be always so, I know not. The day after «e psssed by the Cape, we saw a small white Island, which wc chaced. supplying it had been a Sail, till coming near we found our Error. The list day we saw Point Garachina.' This point is ". Ut- 7 d. 20 m. North; it is pretty high Land, rocky, and ;rsdtutc of Trees; yet within Land it is woody. It is -cnccd with Kocks against the Sea. Within the Point, by the Sea, at low Water, you may find store of Oysters and Mascles. The Kings Islands, or Pearl Keys, are about 12 leagues dtstint from this Point. Between Point Garachina and them, there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera, at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold ^e took in his pillaging Sancta Maria, which I spake of a :tle before, when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out « purpose at Panama, carae upon him ; but he fought them .:• noutly with one Small Bark he had, and some few Caaoa», boirding their Admiral particularly, that they were til glad to leave him. By this Island we anchored, and sent ^aor Basts to the Kings Island for a good careening place. The Kings Islands are a great many low Woody Islands, I N. W. by N. and S. K. by S. They are about 7 I from ihc Main, and 14 leagues in length, and from I about 12 leagues. Why they are called the Kings , I know nut; they arc sometimes, and mostly in s called the Pearl Islands. 1 cannot imagine wherefore J ire called vt, for I did never sec one Pearl Oyster t them, nor any Pearl Oyster-shells ; but on the other I have made many a Meal there : The norther- i of all this range is called Pachcca, or Pachcquc* shut a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 ■ point at ilie SW. of ihe cnirance lo the Gulf ■95 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. leagues. The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls. 1685 Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular Name, though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness. Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas ; and there are Fields of Rice on others of them. The Gentlemen of Panama, to whom they belong, keep Negroes there to plant, weed, and husband the Plantations. Many of them, especially the largest, are wholly untill'd, yet very good fat Land, full of large Trees. These unplanted Islands shelter many Run- away-Negroes, who abscond in the Woods all day, and in the Night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks. Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide ; there is good depth of Water, and good anchoring all the way. The Islands border thick on each other; yet they make many small narrow deep Channels, fit only for Boats to pass between most of them. At the S. E. end, about a league from St. PauFs Island, there is a good place for Ships to careen, or hale ashore. It is surrounded with the Land, and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at. The Tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular. We brought our ships into this place the 25 th day, but were forced to tarry for a Spring-Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them ; therefore we first cleaned our Barks, that they might cruise before Panama, while we lay here. The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each. The 4th day after ; they re- turned with a Prize laden with Maiz, or Indian Corn, Salt Beef and Fowls. She came from Lavelia, and was bound to Panama. Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt. It is pretty large, and stands on the Bank of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama, 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea. Nata is another such Town, standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River. In these Towns, and some others on the same Coast, they breed Hogs, Fowls, Bulls and Cows, and plant Maiz purposely for the support of Panama, which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the Neighbouring Islands. 196 BAY OF PANAMA The Beef and Fowl our Men took, came to us m a I but little Flesh since we left '^^5 I ume, tor wc had eaten I ; IsUnd Plata. The Harbour where we careen'd was in- cd by three Islands, and our Ships rode in the middle. That on which we haled our Ships ashore, was a link Island on the North side of the Harbour. There was I 6ne small sandy Bay, but all the rest of the Island was in- iroocd with Rocks, on which at low Water we did use to i;a:her Oysters, Clams, Muscles and Limpits. The Clam 15 a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock, that there U no separating it from thence, therefore we did open ■: where it grows, and take out the Meat, which is very Urge fat and sweet. Here are a few common Oysters, such iS we have in England, of which sort I have met with none n these Seas, but here, at Point Garachina, at Puna, and on the Mexican Coast, in the lat. of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr, Teat, Captain Swan's chief Mate, which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian,' on the F-ast side and somewhat to the North of the -•trcights of Magellan ; but there is no mention made of *hat Oysters they are. Here are some Guanoes, but we r.^und no other sort of Land-Animal. Here are also some l^geons and Turilc-Doves, The rest of the Islands that incomposs this Harbour had of all these sorts of Creatures. Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to Fish, Fowl or Hunt for Guanoes; but having one Man s-urprixcd once by some Spaniards lying there in ambush, ind carried off by them to Panama, we were after that marc cautious of Stragghng. The 14th day of Feb. 1685, we made an end of clean- ing our Ship, fiU'd all our Water, and stock'd our selves with Hre-wood. The 15th day we went out from among the Islands, and Anchored in the Channel between them i&d the Main, in 25 fathom Water, soft Oazy Ground. The PUtc-Flect was not yet arrived ; therefore we intended 10 cruise before the City of Panama, which is from this place about 25 leagues. The next day we sailed towanis ' Port ,St- Julian. Ciifitiiin Wood, who was here i *«UR u( MoMch " but no oysun. 197 1670, mcnlions CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Panama, passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands '^^^ and the Main. It is very pleasant sailing here, having the Main on one side, which appears in divers forms. It is beautified with many small Hills, cloath'd with woods of divers sorts of Trees, which are always green and flourish- ing. There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main, scattering here and there one : These are partly Woody, partly bare; and they as well as the Main, appear very pleasant. The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel, and make also a lovely prospect as you sail by them. These, as I have already noted, are low and flat, appearing in several Shapes, according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea. The i6th day we anchored at Pacheque, in 17 fathom Water, about a league from the Island, and sailed from thence the next day, with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama. When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas, with a Letter to the Governour, to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away, as I said ; and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before, coming over Land. Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the Name, and with the Consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners ; but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore,^ as we heard afterwards. Old Panama *^ was formerly a famous place, but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673, and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes, and it was never re-edified since. ^ He was ambushed by some Spaniards, who took him to be a buccaneer spy. ^ Old Panama, founded by Pedrarias Davila^ was the most splendid city in the South Seas. It contained some 7000 houses, many of which were of stone. Most of them were built of the local "aromatic cedar," with lower storeys of stone. There was a stately cathedral, dedicated to St. Anastasius, and a number of lesser churches and handsome Goxxm- ment buildings. It is probable that its burning formed no part of Henr>' Morgan's design. Its ruins arc rather more than four miles from the present city. They are covered with a tangle of plants and creepers ; but the cathedral tower is still a landmark for sailors, and a few stone walls and a neat stone bridge were standing a few years ago. 198 PANAMA— THE SPANISH ARMADA New Fanxms n a very fair City, standing close by the , about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town. It ' Name to a large Bay which is famous for a great any navigable Rivers, some whereof are very rich in old : It is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands, at arc not only profitable to their Owners, but Very lightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them ; me of which 1 have already described. It Is incompassed BB tbe backside with a pleasant Country, which is full of Hills and Valleys, beautified with many Groves and fna of Trees, that appear in the Savannahs like so many ittle Islands. This City is all compassed with a high Wall ' ; the Houses are said to be of Brick. Their Roofi* appear higher than the top of the City Wall. It is kutt6ed with a great many fair Churches and Religious Houses, besides the President's House, and other eminent ftnUdings; which altc^eihcr make one of the finest objects Alt I did ever see, in America especially. There are a ■real many Guns on her Walls, most of which look toward he Land. They had none at all against the Sea, when 1 Sm entered these Seas with Captain Sawkins, Captain CoKoo, Captain Sharp, and others; for till then they did i« far any Enemy by Sea : but since then they have fboted Guns clear round. This is a flourishing City by it is a thorough-fair for all imported or exported Gouis and Treasure, to and from all parts of Peru and CWi ; whereof tbcir Store-houses arc never empty. The Koad also is seldom or never without Ships. Besides, once '* J Yean, when the Spanish Armada comes to Portobel, fei the Plate-Fleet also from Uma comes hither with the Kiag'i Treasure, and abundance of Merchant-Ships full of (kaii and Plate; at that time the City is full of Mer- aod Gentlemen,' the Seamen are busie in Landing pntdigioa* cfBi thai ihe King of Spain is said to have ask«l - Iwtlier Uie buildiDg could be seen from his Falace windonrs. toah, according to Wafer. "1'he Buildinj; apu«>rs while j Walb, which are of ttone ; and ihe covering of the Houki Of ure ot " lhi« heal of business," the Fair was tnini- vbcte "a middle chamber" could not be hired for great wn* the tush fur accoramodatton. In 199 I I ■ I J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Treasure and Goods, and the Carriers, or Caravan '^■■'^? Masters, imployed in carrying it over Land on Mules (in vast droves every day) to Portobel, and bringing back luirDpcan goods from thence : Though the City be then so full, yet during this heat of Business there is no hiring of an ordinary Slave under a Piece of Eight a day ; Houses, also Chambers, Beds and Victuals, are then extraordinary dear. Now I am on this Subject, I think it will not be amiss to give the Reader an account of the Progress of the Armada from Old Spain, which comes thus every three Years into the Indies. Its first arrival is at Carthagena, from whence, as I have been told, an Express is imme- diately sent over Land to Lima, thro' the Southern Continent, and another by Sea to Portobcl, with two l^acqucts of Letters, one for the Viceroy of Lima, the other for the Viceroy of Mexico. I know not which way that of Mexico goes after its arrival at Portobel, whether by Land or Sea : But I believe by Sea to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is sent by Land to Panama, and from thence by Sea to Lima. Upon mention of these Pacquets I shall digress yet a little further, and acquaint my Reader, that before my first going over into the South Seas with Captain Sharp, and indeed before any Privateers (at least since Drake' and Oxcngham) had gone that way which we afterwards went, except La Sound," a French Captain, who by Captain lN»rio liirilo, ilic Fair was hold at nixht, by torchlight, in the great city S4|uarc or I'ia/a. The inrrclianis' booths were tents, made of the sails of the ships. I 'or to Hello was very unhealthy. It was reckoned that at least 4on him, and retook the treasure, and soon afterwards the whole crew was betrayed to the Spanish authorities by the Cimmeroons. Oxenham and his pilot were hanged at Lima. His men were shot at Panama. The ship's boys seem to have been spared. " On a prospecting raid in 1679-80. He was "driven back** by hunger. 200 ■ A SPANISH PROPHECY ■ ^•nght'» Instructions had ventured as far as Cheapo Town ah. 1 with a Body of Men, but was driven back again, I being '^5 then on Board Captain Coxon, in company with 3 or 4 more Privateer*, about 4 leagues to the East of Portobel, _ we took the Pacquets bound thither from Carthagena. ■ Wc opcn'd a great quantity of the Merchants Letters, and I '•mnd the Contents of many of them to be very surprising, V -.c Merchants of several parts of Old Spain thereby in- I ■ rming their Correspondents of Panama, and elsewhere, I a certain Prophecy that went about Spain that year, 1 ; Tenour of which was, That there would be English I vatcers that Year in the West-Indies, who would make I Kh gnat Discoveries, as to open a Door into the South I ' tt ; which they supposed was fastest shut : And the I tiers were accordingly full of Cautions to their Friends I I be very watchful and careful of their Coasts. I T)us Door they spake of we all concluded must be the I PsKage over Land through the Country of the Indians of I Oaiiei, who were a little before this become our Friends. I anJ had lately fallen out with the Spaniards, breaking off I the Intercourse which for some time they had with them : I and upon calling also to mind the frequent I»vitations wc I had from thcMc Indians a little before this time, to pass I through their Country, and fall upon the Spaniards in the I ^3«ih Seas, we from henceforward began to entertain such I -^lOoghtB in earnest, and soon came to a Resolution to I ■rake those Attempts which we afterwards did, with Capt. I rtharp, Coxon, &c. So that the taking these Letters gave I ibc first life to those bold undertakings ; and we took the I ainntage of the fears the S[>aniards were in from that I IVopbeqf, or protwblc Conjecture, or whatever it were; for ■ «e tcaled up most of the Letters again, and sent them I ahore to Portobel. I The occasion of this our late Friendship with those I iixTiain was thus. About 15 years before this time, Capt. I Viieht being cruiung near that Coast, and going in among J iWSimhatloe* hies to strike Fish and Turtle, took there I liTwing Indian Lad as he was paddling about in a Canoa. H ^HeliTHight him aboard his Ship, and gave him the name M 201 ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN', of John Gret, cloathing htm, and intending to breed him i^'^S among the English. But his Moskito Strikers, taking a fancy to the Boy, beggM him of Captain Wright, and took him with them at their return into their own Country, where they taught him their Art, and he married a Wife among them, and learnt their Language, as he had done some broken English while he was with Captain Wright, which he improved among the Moskitoes, who correspond- ing so much with us, do all of them smatter English after a sort ; but his own Language he had almost forgot Thus he lived among them for many years ; till about 6 or 8 months before our taking these Letters Capt. Wright being again among the Samballoes, took thence another Indian Boy about lo or 12 years old, the Son of a Man of some account among those Indians; and wanting a Striker, he went away to the Moskito's Country, where he took John Gret, who was now very expert at it. John Gret was much pleased to see a Lad there of his own Country, and it came into his mind to persuade Capt. Wright, upon this occasion, to endeavour a Friendship with those Indians ; a thing our Privateers had long coveted, but never durst attempt, having such dreadful apprehensions of their numbers and fierceness: But John (irer offered the Captain that he would go ashore and negotiate the matter ; who accordingly sent him in his Canoa till he was near the shore, which of a sudden was covered with Indians, standing ready with their Bows and Arrows. John Gret, who had only a Clout about his middle, as the fashion of the Indians is, leapt then out of the Boat, and swam, the Boat retiring a little way back; and the Indians ashore seeing him in that habit, and hearing him call to them in their own Tongue, (which he had recovered by conversing with the Boy lately taken) suffered him quietly to land, and gather^ all about to hear how it was with him. He told them particularly, that he was one of their Countrymen, and how he had been taken many years ago by the English, who had used him very kindly; that they were mistaken in being so much afraid of that Nation, who were not enemies to them, but 202 ■AGREEMENT WITH DARIEN INDIANS ^h the Spaniards: to confirm this, he told them how well ^■e English treated another young Lad of theirs, they had ' ■My taken, such zn ones Son ; for this he had learnt of ^fce Youth, and his Father was one of the company that *M got together on the shore. He persuaded them there- ; fc to make a League with these friendly People, by whose 'tip they might be able to quell the Spaniards; assuring )'.V} the Father of the Boy, that if he would but go with ^'ot to the Ship, which they saw at anchor at an Island tSere (it was Golden Island, the Easiermost of the Sam- talloe*. a place where there is good striking for Turtle) ae should have his Son restored to him, and they might »11 expect a very kind reception. Upon these assurances :o or 30 of them went off presently, in 2 or 3 Canoas bdcn with Plantains, Bonanoes, Fowls, &c. And Captain Wright haWng treated them on board, went ashore with them, and was entertained by them, and Presents were made 00 each side. Captain Wright gave the Boy to his Father -.n ■ very handsom English Dress, which he had caused to Se made purposely for him ; and an Agreement was "im- mediately struck up between the English and these Indians, wbo invited the English through their Country into the ^thSeai. Pursuant to this Agreement, the English, when they cune upon any such design, or for Traffick with them, •or to give a certain Signal which they pitcht upon, ■Wcby they might be known. But it happened that ■j Sound, the French Captain spoken of a little , being then one of Captain Wright's Men, learnt Signal, and staying ashore at Petit-Guaves, upon , Wright's going thither soon after, who had his feion from thence, he gave the other French there I account of the Agreement before-mentioned, and laeit of entring the South Seas thereupon, that he : the head of about 120 of them, who made that I attempt upon Cheapo, as I said, making use of ignal they had learnt for passing the Indians Country, I at that time could not distinguish so well between KMvcnl Nuiooft of the Europeans, aa they can unce. g CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. From such small beginnings arose those great stirs that '685 have been since made over the South Seas, viz. from the Letters we took, and from the Friendship contracted with these Indians by means of John Gret. Yet this Friendship had like to have been stifled in its Infancy ; for within few months after an English trading Sloop came on this Coast from Jamaica, and John Gret, who by this time had ad- vanced himself to be a Grandee among these Indians, together with 5 or 6 more of that quality, went oflF to the Sloop in their long Gowns, as the custom is for such to wear among them.^ Being received aboard, they ex- pected to find every thing friendly, and John Gret talkt to them in English; but these English Men, having no knowledge at all of what had happened, endeavoured to make them Slaves (as is commonly done) for upon carrying them to Jamaica, they could have sold them for 10 or 12 Pound a piece. But John Gret, and the rest, perceiving this, leapt all over board, and were by the others killed every one of them in the Water. The Indians on shore never came to the knowledge of it ; if they had, it would have endangered our Correspondence. Several times after, upon our conversing with them, they enquired of us what was become of their Country-men : but we told them we knew not, as indeed it was a great while after that we heard this Story ; so they concluded the Spaniards had met with them, and killed, or taken them. But to return to the account of the progress of the Armada which we left at Cartagena : After an appointed stay there of about 60 days, as I take it, it goes thence to Portobel, where it lies 30 days, and no longer. Therefore the Viceroy of Lima, on notice of the Armada's arrival at Cartagena, immediately sends away the Kings Treasure to Panama, where it is landed, and lies ready to be sent to Portobel upon the first news of the Armada's arrival * "They have a sort of long Cotton Garments of their own, some white, others of a rusty black, shap'd like our Carter's Frocks, hanging down to their Heels, with a fringe of the same of Cotton about a Span long, and short, wide, open sleeves, reaching but to the middle of their Amis. These Ciarmcnts . . . are worn only on some great Occasions." — Lionel IVa/er, p. 142. 204 SPANISH ARMADA AND FLOTA there. This is the reason partly of their sending Expresses >■:) early lo Limi, that upon the Armada's first coming ' to Portobcl, the Treasure and Goods may lie ready at Fuuma, to be sent away upon the Mules, and it requires tome time for the Uma Fleet to unlade, because the Ships ride not « Paruma, but at Perica,' which are 3 small Islaods 1 leagues from thence. The King's Treasure is «aid to amount commonly to about 24000CXX3 of Pieces of Kight : besides abundance of Merchants Money. All this Treasure is carried on Mules, and there are large Stables at boch places to lodge them. Sometimes the Merchants 10 steal the Custom pack up Money among Goods, and scad it to Vcnta de Crazes' on the River Chagrc ; from iheacc down the River, and afterwards by Sea to Portobel : u) which passage I have known a whole Fleet of Periago's sad Canooj taken. The Merchants who are not ready to ■•U by the thirtieth day after the Armada's arrival, are in danger to be left behind, for the Ship all weigh the 30th day pre cise ly, and go to the Harbors Mouth ; yet sometimes, on great importunity, the Admiral may stay a week longer ; for It is impossible that all the Merchants should get ready, for want of Men, When the Armada departs from Porto- bd, it returns again to Cartagena, by which time all the Kittgs Ro'cnue which comes out of the Country is got ready there. Here also meets them again a great Ship caltni the Pattachc, one of the Spanish Galeons, which Wore their first arrival at Cartagena goes from the rest of the Armada on purpose to gather the Tribute of the Coast, uochlng at the Margarita s and other places in her way thence to Cartagena, as Punta de Guaira' Maracaybo. Rio s that go to la Vera Cruz,* and there ukes in the effects of the City and Country of Mexico, and what is brought thither in the Ship which comes thither every year from the Philippine Islands ; ' and having joined the rest at the Havana, the whole Armada sets sail for Spun through the Gulf of Florida.' The Ships in the South Seas lie a great deal longer at Panama before they return to Lima. The Merchants and Gentlemen which come from Lima, stay as little time as they can at Portobel, which is at the best but a sickly place, and at this time is very full of Men from all parts. But Panama, as it is not overcharged with Men so unreasonably as the other, tho* very full, so it enjoys a good Air, lying open to the Sea- wind ; which riseth commonly about lO or ii a Clock in the morning, and continues till 8 or 9 a Clock at night: then the Land wind comes, and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning. There are no Woods nor Marches near Panama, but a brave dry Champain Land, not subject to Fogs nor Mists. The wet Season begins in the latter end of May, and con- tinues till Novemlier. Ai that time the Sea breezes arc at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the Winds arc most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North. Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South ; but of this 1 shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix. The Rains are not so excessive about Panana it self, as on either side of the Bay ; yet in the Months of June, July and August, they are severe enough. Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama, especially in these months, cut their hair close, to preserve them from Fevers ; for the place is sickly to them, because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs, but enjoys a constant serenity ; but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other People. Thus much for Panama. The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of ■ * In the Gulf of Mexico. ■-* " The Manila galleon " which discharged on the west coast at Acapulco. ^ The passage between Florida and Cuba. 206 OUR PRISONERS EXCHANGED : Islaods Perico (which are only 3 little barren rocky an. bUnds) in expcaation of the President of Panama's Answer *^S , to the Letter, I said, wc sent him by Don Diego, treating ■boat exchange of Prisoners ; this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an answer. The ittt day wc took another Bark laden with Hogs. Fowl, Salt Beef and Molossocs : she came from Lavclia, and was going to Rinanu. In the afternoon we sent another Letter ' shore by a young Mastiso (a mixt brood of Indians and r.uropcans) directed to the President, and 3 or 4 Copies of ■1) be dispersed abroad among the common People. This .--:(cr, which was full of Threats, tt^ethcr with the young '•lin'i managing the business, wrought so powerfully among ": common People, that the City was in an uproar. The ('-csidcnt immediately sent a Gentleman aboard, who de- Tundod the Flower-Prize that we took ofF of Gallo, and iH t^ Prisoner?, for the Ransom of our two Men : but our Uptaiiu told him ihcy would exchange Man for Man. Tat Gentleman said he had not Orders for that, but if we "'■uU suy till the next day he would bring the Governors The next day he brought aboard our two Men, d had about 4.0 Prisoners in exchange. I The 24lh day wc run over to the Island Tabago.' 'Tic litwr M |i*cB tn full in the orlKinal MS. It U Lcnainly "full l^ilM nA>c tbt* lut demand and Ihinkc ihai Ihe imprisonctnent of fans Eafluiunen U more advantaf;cnus tn you than ihc lives of nr of jroKT Cauntiymen ii are already and what else shall full into u, ikea jaa may keep Ibcm and wc will send you the heads of these fct^fiMiii>a : and Iben doe dut Coumr^men the least hurl in theit livet pilf«s mai br Uie beipe of God wee will colour your Land Kivera and iih Wead of men women and children the whole time that wee aau, cutntas our former Mercy into cruelty, shewing mercy If 10 any.* _ If oar Sttim near your walU thai you uiay have the pleasure ■ (lfc« Spaaoli priwnert) handed at nur yard annes." ■Mke you kntrar that wee arc tlie Comanders of the whole n ewwder what to choose for wee waite your sentence of life b inmiieaeE, if deaih you shall certainly have iJie heads by ma the Com.-uidcrs of the whole South Seas. Feb. «, 1581." puwerfuily." Ai CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Tabago is in the Bay, and about 6 Leagues South of J685 Panama. It is about 3 mile long, and 2 broad, a high mountainous Island. On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea. The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep ; but towards the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry. The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew, it seems to be a Garden of Fruit in- closed with many high Trees; the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonano's. They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it ; but those near the top are but small, as wanting moisture. Close by the Sea there are many Coco-Nut-Trees, which make a very pleasant sight. Within the Coco-Nut-Trees there grow many Mammet Trees.^ The Mammet is a large, tall, and straight-bodied Tree, clean, without knots or limbs, for 60 or 70 foot, or more. The head spreads abroad into many small Limbs, which grow pretty thick, and close together. The Bark is of a dark grey colour, thick and rough, full of large chops. The Fruit is bigger than Quince, it is round, and covered with a thick Rind, of a grey colour : When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough ; and it will then peel off like Leather ; but before it is ripe it is brittle : the juice is then white and clammy; but when ripe not so. The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carrot, and in the middle are two large rough stones, flat, and each of them much bigger than an Almond. The Fruit smells very well, and the taste is answerable to the smell. The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared, but is full of Fire-wood, and Trees of divers sorts. There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water, that springs out of the side of the Mountain, and gliding through the Grove of Fruit- trees, falls into the Sea on the North side. There was a small Town standing by the Sea, with a Church at one end, but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Priva- teers.^ There is good anchoring right against the Town, * The Mammee apple. - The buccaneers under Sawkins lay here from May 2-15, 1680. ** VVhiic we were here," says Ringrose, "some of our men being drunk on shore, hapncd to set fire unto one of the Houses, the which consumed twelve houses more before any could get ashoar to quench it" (p. 86, ed. 1684). 208 A SPANISH STRATAGEM c a mile from the shoar, where you may have 16 or ^thom Water, sofc oazy ground. There is a small ' close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla,' ith a snull Channel to pass between. There is another ]y Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago, < good Channel between them : this Island ' hath no xme that ever I heard. While wc lay at Tabago, we had like to have had a vrvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama, rho came, as by stealth, to traffick'with us privately; a Aii^ common enou^jh with the Spanish Merchants, both ■ the North and South Seas, notwithstanding the severe ~ 'libitions of the Govcrnours; who yet sometimes con- i*e at it, and will even trade with the Privateers them- Jves. Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out Bark laden with Goods in the night, and wc to go and at the South of Pcrico. Out he came, with a Fire- ip iostead of a Bark, and approached very near, haling with the Watch-word* we had agreed upon. Wc sus- the worst, call'd to them to come to an anchor, upoa their not doing so fired at them : when immedi- ately their Men going out into the Canoas, set fire to their Ship, which blew up, and burnt close by us ; ^ so that we forc'd to cut our Cables in all haste, and scamper Kwiy as welt as wc could. The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appoint- h^ to meet us at Perico, for there we had Sea-room ; had be come thus upon us at Tabago, the Land- wind bearing hard upon us as it did, we must either have Wa burnt by the I*ircship, or upon loosing our Cables kne been driven ashore: But 1 suppose they chose Pcrico * TafaicinDa. * It i« unnamr CbarcK* when Sharp and Sawhini look it in April 1680. ' CafpteiM Pern Ham*. Hu advmturc* ar» discuawd in the Apptadix. 215 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Indians who live hereabouts get most; and of them the "^5 Spaniards buy more Gold than their Slaves get by working. I have been told that they get the value of 5 Shillings a day, one with another. The Spaniards ^thdraw most of them with their Slaves, during the wet Season, to Panama. At this Town of St. Maria, Captain Townley was lying with his Party, making Canoas, when Captain Gronet came into the Seas ; for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards. There is another small new Town at the mouth of the River called the Scuchaderoes : It stands on the North side of the open place, at the mouth of the River of St Maria, where there is more air than at the Mines, or at Santa Maria Town, where they are in a manner stifled with heat for want of air. All about these Rivers, especially near the Sea, the Land is low, it is deep black Earth, and the Trees it produceth are extraordinary large and high. Thus much concerning the Gulf of St. Michael, whither we were bound. The second day of March, as is said before, we weighed from Perico, and the same night we anchor'd again at Pacheque. The third day we sailed from thence steering towards the Gulf. Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Captain Townley and his Men : therefore he kept near the Main ; but the rest of the Ships stood nearer the Kings Islands. Captain Swan desired this office, because he in- tended to send Letters over-land by the Indians to Jamaica, which he did ; ordering the Indians to deliver his Letters to any English Vessel in the other Seas. At 2 a clock we were again near the Place where we clean'd our Ships. There we saw 2 Ships coming out, who proved to be Captain Townley and his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night, and took 2 Barks bound for Panama : the one was laden with Flower, the other with Wine, Brandy, Sugar, and Oyl. The Prisoners that he took declared that the Lima Fleet was ready to sail. We went and anchored among the Kings Islands, and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of 216 NEWS OF MORE PRIVATEERS COMING ■ SulU MftTta, being informed by the Indians, that Captain an, A Townley w«s come over to the Kings Islands. At this '^SM fdace Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods I to make room for his Men. He distributed his Wine and I Brandy some to every Ship, that it might be drunk out, I becsase he wantetl the jars to carry water in. The I Spuiiards in these Seas carry all their Wine, Brandy and I Oyl, in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons. When they lade at I t^sco ' (m place about 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima, I and famous for Wine) they bring nothing else but Jars of I Wine, and they slow one Tier at the top of another so I artificially, that we could hardly do the like without break- I rig them: yet they often carr)- in this manner 1500 or I . too, or more, in a Ship, and seldom break one. The I . ::>tli day we took a small Bark that came from Guiaquil : I she had nothing in her but Ballast. The 12th day there I ctme an Indian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria, I and toU as, that there were 300 English and Krench-mcn ^ -nare coming over Land from the North Seas.' The sth day we met a Bark, with 5 or 6 English-men in her, "at bdongtd to Captain Knight' who had been in the '^/uth Seas 5 or 6 months, and was now on the Mexican .'■asc There he had espied this Bark ; but not being able ■ come ap with her in hia Ship, he dctach'd these 5 or 6 ''Icn in a Canoa, who took her, but when they had done 'uld not recover their own Ship again, losing company ■ith her in the night, and therefore they came into the Bay of IHnama, intending to go over-land back into the North Seas, but that they luckily met with us: for the lulunus of Darien was now become a common Road for Prtnteers to pass between the North and South Seas at 'hdr pleasure. This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy : she was now commanded by Mr. Henry More ; * but Captain Swan intending to pro- ' A dhak called PUco, a rvrr iiiong while brandy, is Kill made at Tb> pany vndci Capuini Rote, I'lcanl, and Ucxmaniis. There wcir r tanj Indiani with thrm. » Witbun Kniglii. tn a goM*mith liviog oecf or un London Bridge." 317 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. mote Captain Harris, caused Mr. More to be turned out, '^5 alledging that it was very likely these Men were run away from their Commander. Mr. More willingly resigned her, and went aboard of Captain Swan, and became one of his Men. It was now the latter end of the dry Season here ; and the Water at the Kings, or Pearl Islands, of which there was plenty when we first came hither, was now dried away. Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina, think- ing to Water our Ships there. Captain Harris being now Commander of the new Bark, was sent into the River of Santa Maria, to see for those Men that the Indians told us of, whilst the rest of the Ships sailed towards Pcnnt Garachina; where we arrived the 2ist day, and anchored 2 mile from the Point, and found a strong Tide running out of the River Sambo. The next day we run within the Point, and anchored in 4 fathom at low Water. The Tide riseth here 8 or 9 foot : the Flood sets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to ut in Canoas, and brought Plantains and Bonanoes. They could not speak nor understand Spanish ; therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards. We found no fresh Water here neither ; so we went from hence to Port Pinas, which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence. Porto Pinas ^ lieth in lat. 7 d. North. It is so called, because there are many Pine-trees growing there. The Land is pretty high, rising gently as it runs into the Country. This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods : the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle, but high and rocky on both sides. At the mouth of the Harbor there are 2 small high Islands, or rather barren Rocks. The Spaniards in their Pilot-Books commend this for a good Harbor ; but it lieth all open to the S. W. Winds, which frequently blow here in the wet Season : beside, the Harbor within the Islands is a place of but small extent, and hath a very narrow going in ; what depth of Water ^ there is in the Harbor I know not Mn 7° 34' N. lat. It is charted in Admiralty plan 2267. '^ From nineteen to seven fathoms. 218 PORTO PINAS The 25th day wc arrived at this Harbor of Pines, bui not go in with our Ship, finding it but an ordi nary ' c. VVc sent in our Boats to search f found a stream of good Water running into the Sea ; b«l there were such great swelling Surges came into the Harbor, that we could not conveniently fill our Water there. The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again. In our way wc took a small Vessel laden with Cicao : she came from Guiaquit. The 29th day we arrived mt Point Garachina : There we found Captain Harris, who had been in the River of Santa Maria ; but he did not meet the Men that be went for. Yet he was informed again by the Indiani, thai they were making Canoas in one of the fannchcs of the River of Santa Maria. Here we shared our Caoo lately taken. Because we could not fill our water here, we designed ;i> go to Tabogo again, where wc were sure to be supplied. Accordingly on the 30th day we set sail, being now 9 Ships m compuiy; and had a small wind at S. S. E. The first i«7 of April, bcir^ in the Channel between the Kings Iftbfldi and the Main, we had much Thunder, Lightning, aad some Rain: This evening wc anchored at the Island Pacbeque, and immediately sent 4 Canoas before us to the liland Tabago to take some Prisoners for information, and •« followed the next day. The 3rd day in the evening «e anchored by Pcrica, and the next morning went to Tahago:' where we found our 4 Canoas. They arrived '■here in the night, and took a Canoa that came (as is usual) from Panama for Plantains. There were in the Canoa 4 lodtans and a Mulata. The Mulata, because he said he ■uinthc Kireship that came to burn us in the night, was ^aiDediately hanged.' These Prisoners confirmed, that one Captain Bond, an English Man, did command her. Here we 6lled oar Water, and cut Firewood ; and from ■*Tuk w« Ur there (ome of Davis his men (fellows without sense nspiivd lu tnrnc him out ami cbusc and putt nnoiher Cotnander iMt, for the ((reatcsi fault that ihcy could findc with him M Milde" (.v/fttur .l/.S.V., 3136). t MS. Kim a marg'MU note, " 'ii> hard folline ii 219 nto the hands of CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. hence we sent 4 Canoas over to the Main, with one of the '^^ Indians lately taken, to guide them to a Sugar-work : for now we had Cacao, we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate. But the chiefest of their business was to get Coppers, for each Ship having now so many Men, our Pots would not boil Victuals fast enough, though we kept them boiling all the day. About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers. While we lay here, Captain Davis his Bark went to the Island Otoque.^ This is another inhabited Island in the Bay of Panama ; not so big as Tabago, yet there are good Plantain-walks on it, and some Negroes to look after them. These Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Masters, who live at Panama ; as at the Kings Islands. It was for some Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither ; but by accident they met also with an Express that was sent to Panama with an account, that the Lima Fleet was at Sea. Most of the Letters were thrown overboard and lost ; yet we found some that said positively, that the Fleet was coming with all the strength that they could nuke in the Kingdom of Peru ; yet were ordered not to fight us, except they were forced to it : (though afterwards they chose to fight us, having first landed their Treasure at Lavelia) and that the Pilots of Lima had been in consultation what course to steer to miss us. For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know, I have here inserted the Resolutions taken by the Committee of Pilots, as one of our company translated them, out of the Spanish of two of the Letters we took. The first Letter is as follows. " Sir, — Having been with his Excellency, and heard the Letter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read ; wherein he says, there should be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the said City, they say 'tis not time, putting for objection the Gallapagoes ; to which I answered. That it was fear of » Otoque. In 8*» 35' N. Lit., 79° 35' W. long. It lies to the SSW. of the Taboga and Tabo^uilla islands. 220 SPANISH FLEET'S SAILING ORDERS i Enemy, and that they might well go that way. I told . this to his Excellency, who was pleased to command me ' to write this Course, which is as follows. "The day for sailing being come, go forth to the West South West; from that to the West till you are forty ksgues off at Sea ; then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line : from whence the Kilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco,' and for [he Coast of Lavelia ' and Natta : " where you may speak with the People, and according to the Information they give, you may keep the same Course for Otoque, from tbence to Tabsgo, and so to Panama : This is what offers is to the Course." The Letter is obscure : But the Reader must make what he can of it. The Directions in the other Letter were to this EUTiKt. " The surest Course to be observed going forth froRi Malabrigo, is thus: You must sail W. by S, that you may avoid the sight of the islands of Lobos ; and if you should chance to see them, by reason of the Brteics, and should fall to Leward of the Lat. of Mala- brigo, keep on a Wind as near as you can, and if neces- nry, go about, and stand in for the shoar ; then tack ud stand off, and be sure keep your Latitude ; and when foa are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Island Uitnft, keep that distance, till you come under the Line; lad then, if the general Wind follows you farther, you an* sul N. N.E. till you come into 3 degrees North. ■\iid if in this Lat. you should 6nd the breezes, make it nor business to keep the Coast, and so sail for Panama. If IB your course you should come in sight of the Land ■*'*' : you are abrest of Cape St. Francisco, be sure to ' Horn PncrcM. In tat 7' n' N.. Ion*. 8o* 15' W. 1 Vim, or Larclta, lies la iho SE. of Lim Poiot, on the 1 * A iBwll io*a OD ■ river of th« came name It fronts upon Pariia a hite u> the N. of Ltw Poini. 221 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Stretch off again out of sight of Land, that you may not be '^5 discovered by the Enemy." The last Letter supposes the Fleet's setting out from Malabrigo, in about 8 deg. South Lat. (as the other doth its going immediately from Lima, 4 deg. further South) and from hence is that Caution given of avoiding Lobos, as near Malabrigo, in their usual way to Panama, and hardly to be kept out of sight, as the Winds are thereabouts ; yet to be avoided by the Spanish Fleet at this time, because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar, they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them. The loth day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Island again, because our Pilots told us, that the Kings Ships did always come this way. The nth day we anchored at the place where we careened. Here we found Captain Harris, who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria, and fetched the body of Men that last came over Land, as the Indians had informed us : but they fell short of the number they told us of. The 29th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo,^ to take the Town of Cheapo. The 21st day all our Ships, but Captain Harris, who staid to clean his Ships, followed after. The 2 2d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio. Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Panama : It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama, and a league from the Main. This Island is about a mile long, and almost so broad ; it is low on the North-side, and riseth by a small ascent towards the South-side. The Soil is yellow, a kind of Clay. The high side is stony ; the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits, viz. Sapadilloes,' Avogato-pears,®Mammees,*Mammee-Sappota*s,Star-apples,* * The Cheapo, now the Chcpo River, empties into the gulf some twenty- five miles to the east of Panama. The island of Chepillo lies at its mouth. A sandy spit of shore curves towards the northern point of the island, which is, as Dampier says, low lying. ^ Sapadilloes, the sapodilla plum, or nase berry, one of the sapota family. •'' "Alligator Pears" : Persia jp'a/isstMa. * The San Domingo .ipricot. ^ The star-apple is also of the sapota family. 222 SAPADILLO-TREE— AVOGATO PEAR &c The mtddlc of the Island is planted with Plantain- an. Trre«, which are not very Urge, but the Fruit extraordinary '^S The Sapaditlo-Trec is as big as a large Pear-tree, the Fruit much like x Bcrgamot-pear, both in colour, shape and Mie ; but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer. When ■ is green or first gathered, the Juice is white and clammy, -.J It will «iek like glcw; then the Fruit is hard, but -::cr it hath been gathered 2 or 3 days, it grows soft and ,]cy, v»d then the juice is clear as Spring-Water, and very »cet ; in the midst of the Fruit arc 2 or 3 black Stones or ■•ai», about the bigness of a Pumpkin-seed : This is an 'Ticellcnt Fruit. The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees, and n commonly pretty h^h ; the skin or bark black, and frcity flinooth ; the leaves large, of an oval shape, and the Kfuii as big as a large Lemon. It is of a green colour, till h s ripe, and then it is a little yellowish. They arc seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days; then tikcT becotne soft, and the Skin or Rind will peel off. The Hibstuicc in the inside is green, or a Httlc yellowish, and as •oft as Butter. Within the substance there is a stone as bg as a Horjc-PIumb. This Fruit hath no taste of it self, ud therefore 'tis usually mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice, ftnd beaten together in a Plate ; ^nd this is an excellent dish. The ordinary way is to cat it with a little Salt and a roasted t^tatain ; and thus a Man that's hungry, may make a good -^ of it. It is very wholesome eaten any way. It is Tpon ed that this Fruit provokes to Lust, and therefore is -^jdtobe much esteemed by the Spaniards: and I do believe "ey air much esteemed by them, for 1 have met with ■.'■eaty of them in many places in the North Seas, where the '■puurds are settled, as in the Bay of Campeachy, on the LoHt of Cartagena, and the Coast of Caraccos; and there )^ tome ia Jinutca, which were planted by the Spaniards «te the)' poMCSsed that Island. Tbc Manimec-Sappoia Tree is diflfcrent from the Himtnee described at the Island Tabago in this Chapter. r fciUBi to big or «q tall, neither is the Fruit so big or so CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. round. The Rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle; the '^^5 inside is a deep red, and it has a rough flat long stone. This is accounted the principal Fruit of the West-Indies. It is very pleasant and wholesome. I have not seen any of these on Jamaica ; but in many places in the West-Indies among the Spaniards. There is another sort of Mammee- tree, which is called the Wild Mammee : This bears a Fruit which is of no value, but the Tree is straight, tall, and very tough, and therefore principally used for making Masts. The Star Apple-tree grows much like the Quince Tree, but much bigger. It is full of leaves, and the leaf is broad, of an oval shape, and of a very dark green colour. The Fruit is as big as a large Apple, which is commonly so covered with leaves, that a Man can hardly see it. They say this is a good Fruit ; I did never taste any, but have seen both of the Trees and Fruit in many places on the Main, on the North side of the Continent, and in Jamaica. When the Spaniards possessed that Island, they planted this and other sorts of Fruit, as the Sapadillo, Av<^to-Pear, and the like ; and of these Fruits there is still in Jamaica in those Plantations that were first settled by the Spaniards as at the Angels,^ at 7 Mile Walk, and 16 Mile Walk. There I have seen these Trees which were planted by the Spaniards, but I did never see any improvement made by the English, who seem in that little curious. The Road for Ships is on the North side, where there is good anchor- ing half a Mile from the shore. There is a Well close by the Sea on the North side, and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houses close by it, but now they are destroyed. This Island stands right against the mouth of the River Cheapo. The River Cheapo springs out of the Mountains near the North side of the Country, and it being penn'd up on the South side by other Mountains bends its course to the Westward between both, till finding a passage on the S. W. * " The Angels, 7 mile Walk and 16 mile Walk." The Angels is on the right bank of the Cobra river, in the parish of St. Kcitharine's. Sezfcn- mile Walk seems to have been in the parish of St. Dorothy's. Sixteen- mile Walk is in the parish of St. Thomas in the Vale. Here Mr. Hellicr had his plantation. 224 CHEAPO RIVER— CHEAPO TOWN knakei a kind of a half circle ; and being swell'd t( ienblc bigness, it runs with a slow motion into the , 7 leagues from Panama. This Ri ■ of s lilc broad : but the i i very deep and uth of i quarter < choak'd up with Sands, so that no Ships can enter, but Barks may. There is a small Spanish Town of the same Bainc within 6 leagues of the Sea : it stands on the left hand going from the Sea. This is it which 1 said Captain La Sound attempted. The Land about it is champion, with many small Hills cloathed with Woods; but the biggest part of the Country is Savannah. On the South side of the River it is all Wood-land for many leagues together. It • is to this Town that our 250 Men were sent. The 24th av they returned out of the River, having taken the Town - ■ thoat any opposition : but they found nothing in it. By c way going thither they took a Canoa, but most of the ^len escaped ashore upon one of the Kings Islands: She -M sen! out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motioo. The 2jth day Captain Harris came to us, having cleaned hli Ship. The 26th day we went again toward Tib^o; our Fleet now, upon Captain Harris joining us ijaiii, consisted of 10 Sail. Wc arrived at Tabago the . *th day: there our Prisoners were examined concerning •ne strength of Panama; for now we thought our selves scrocig enough for such an tjiterprize, being near 1000 Men. Out of these, on occasion, we could have landed 500 : but our ftiioncrs gave us small Encouragement to it, ■■<■ they assured us, that all the strength of the Country -»» ibcrc, and that many Men were come from Portobel, -elides its own Inhabiunls, who of themselves were more la number than wc. These reasons, together with the ■Tcngth of the place (which hath a high Wall) deterr'd us from attempting it. While we lay here at Tabago, some ! our Men burnt the Town on the Island. The 4th of May we sailed hence again bound for the K-nn Islands; and there wc continued cruising from one ^ of these Islands to the other: till on the 22d day. Cjptaio Davis, and Captain Gronet, went to Pacheque, <3tW the rest of the Elect at anchor at St. Pauls Island. roL- I. 225 P CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. From Pacheque we sent 2 Canoas to the Island Chepelio, *^^5 in hopes to get a Prisoner there. The 25th day our Canoas returned from Chepelio, with three Prisoners which they took there : They were Sea-men belonging to Panama, who said that Provision was so scarce and dear there, that the poor were almost starved ; being hindred by us from those common and daily supplies of Plantains, which they did formerly enjoy from the Islands ; especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago : That the President of Panama had strictly ordered, that none should adventure to any of the Islands for Plantains : but necessity had obliged them to trespass against the President's Order. They farther re- ported, that the Fleet from Lima was expected every day; for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima : and that the report at Panama was, that King Charles II. of England was dead,^ and that the Duke of York was crowned King. The 27th day Captain Swan, and Captain Townly, also came to Pacheque, where we lay, but Captain Swan's Bark was gone in among the Kings Islands for Plantains. The Island Pacheque, as I have before related, is the Northermost of the Kings-Islands. It is a small low Island about a league round. On the South side of it there are 2 or 3 small Islands, neither of them half a mile round. Between Pacheque and these Islands is a small Channel ^ not above 6 or 7 paces wide, and about a mile long. Through this Captain Townly made a bold run, being prest hard by the Spaniards in the fight I am going to speak of, though he was ignorant whether there was a sufficient depth of Water or not. On the East side of this Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet, which we were in hopes would come this way. The 28th day we had a very wet morning, for the Rains were come in, as they do usually in May, or June, sooner or later; so that May is here a very uncertain month. * Charles II. died on the 6th Februar>% 1685. * The latest charts show no such channel. Several of the small islands to the south of Pacheca are separated by narrow guts of sea " not above 6 or 7 paces wide." Townley probably made his escape between two islands, a mile to the north-east of Saboga, two or three miles from Pacheca. The channel here would be about three-quarters of a mile. 226 SPANISH FLEET FROM LIMA ffitbcrto. tili within a few days, we had had good fair weather, and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the Weather '** WM aliaxd, and the Wind at S. S. W. However about eleven a Clock it cleared up, and we ..« the Spanish Fleet about 3 leagues W. N. W. from the Mand Pachcque, standing close on a Wind to the Eastward ; -t they could not fetch the Island by a league. We were ling a league S, E. from the Island between it and the Main ; only Qptain Gronet was about a mile to the North- E(f us near the Island : he weighed so soon as they came ht, and stood over for the Main ; and we lay still, iog when he would tack ' and come to us : but he »re to keep himself out of harms way. ptain Swan and Townly came aboard of Captain to order how to engage the Enemy, who we saw came — leljr to fight us, they being in all 14 Sail, besides Pen^oes, rowing with 12 and I4 Oars apiece. Six Sail of them were Ships of good force : first the Admiral 48 Guns, . -O Men ; the Vice-Admiral 40 Guns, 400 Men ; the r<=ir- Admiral 36 Guns, 360 Men ; a Ship of 24 Guns, 300 Men ; one of 18 Guns, 250 Men ; and one of eight Guns, lOoMen ; 2 great Fircships, 6 Ships only with small Arms, bmog 800 Men on board them all ; besides 2 or 3 hun- dred Men in Periagocs. This account of their Strength we had afterwards from Captain Knight, who being to the Windward on the Coast of Peru, took Prisoners, of whom he had this Information, being what they brought from l-icn. Besdes these Men, they had also some hundreds t Old Spain Men that came from Portobel, and met them ■ Lavelia, from whence they now came: and their strength < Men from Lima was 3000 Men, being all the strength -cf could make in that Kingdom ; and for greater security, '-k a Bark-log, or \mr of Bark-lc^s .« Wc call it, laden chiefly with Flower. She had other rxidi, as Wine, Ovl, Brandy, Sugar, Soap, and Leather of ^>xtvikins; and he took out as much of each as he had ■oo for, and then turned her away again. The Master ' la S^^rmgUA. It » locnc milci inland, between the NW. end nf La* Sn^imttiM and the town nf Rest L«jo. ' FiK^fa Noeia. A xnAll lovn on the bankt or a river, some eii[hi a u> ihe Sol Qnilxi^ S«irkini «a« »hoE while hacking al Uie pales «Dckadn. " lieinji a man af undaunlci) counkee," ant! one "whom f M onb timU temAe.' Tliis wai May », tbto. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS. of the Float told hiniy that the Kings Ships were gone firom '^^ Lima towards Panama : that they carried but half the Kings Treasure with them, for fear of us, although they had all the strength that the Kingdom could afford : that all the Merchant Ships which should have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta, where they were to wait for further Orders. Captain Knight having but few Men, did not dare to go to Payta, where, if he had been better pro- vided, he might have taken them all; but he made the best of his way into the Bay of Panama, in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet ; but coming to the Kings Islands, he had advice by a Prisoner, that we had engaged with their Fleet, but were worsted, and since that made our way to the Westward ; and therefore he came hither to seek us. He presently consorted with us, and set his Men to work to make Canoas. Every Ships com- pany made for themselves, but we all helped each other to launch them, for some were made a mile from the Sea. The manner of making a Canoa is, after cutting down a large long Tree, and squaring the uppermost side, and then turning it upon the fiat side, to shape the opposite side for the bottom. Then again they turn her, and dig the inside ; boring also three holes in the bottom, one before, one in the middle, and one abaft, thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom ; for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient. We left the bottoms commonly about 3 Inches thick, and the sides 2 Inches thick below, and one and an half at the top. One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point. Captain Davis made two very large Canoas; one was 36 foot long, and 5 or 6 feet wide ; the other 32 foot long, and near as wide as the other. In a Months time we finished our Business and were ready to sail. Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship a ground to clean her, but she being old and rotten fell in pieces : And therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan. While we lay here we struck Turtle every day, for they were now very plentiful : But from August to March here are not many. The i8th day of July, John Rose, a 234 THEY SAIL FROM QUIBO 1 Frenchman, and 14, Men more, belonging to Captain Gronct, an. 1 hivii^ nude 1 new Canoa, came in her to Captain Davis, *^5 mad dcnred to serve under him ; and Captain Davis accepted of them, because they had a Canoa of their own. The 30th day of JuW we sailed from Quibo, bending o«r coiine for Rca Lcjo, which is the Port for Leon, the ^^^ly that we now designed to attempt. We were now ^^■O Men in 8 Sail of Ships, commanded by Captain Davis, J ^Hntain Swan, Captain Towntcy and Captain Knight, with I P^nireshtp and three Tenders, which last had not a constant I Crew. Wc past out between the River Quibo and the I Ranchcria, leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard I ■ide, and the Ranchcria, with the rest of the Islands, and ' 'le Main, on our Starboard side. The Wind at first was ■ South South West: Wc coasted along shore, passing by :ac Gulf of Ntcoya, the Gulf of Dulce, and by the Island . Caneo. All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick ■ Ws we could, and marched after them: 470 Men were dnwn out to march to the Town, and I was left with $9 Men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return. The City of Leon is 20 Mile up in the Country: The •■y 10 it plain and even, through a Champion Country, of loog grassy Savannahs, and spots of high Woods. About J Mile from the Landing-place there is a Sugar-work, 3 Mite farther there is another, and 2 Mile beyond that, there u a fine River to ford, which is not very deep, besides which, chert is no Water in all the way, till you come to aa lodun Town, which is 2 Mile before you come to the (mj, and from thence it is a pleasant straight sandy way to Leon. This City stands in 3 Plain not far from a high pecked Mountain, which often times casts forth Ere and unoaJc from its top. It may be seen at Sea, and it is called the Volcan of Leon.' The Houses of Leon are not high built, but strong and large, with Gardens about t thctn. The Walls arc Stone, and the Covering of Pan-tile ; ^bbcre are 3 Churches and a Cathedral, which is the head ^KhuFch in these parts. Our Countryman Mr. Gage,* who i Mucwt Auixru, " «hieh fnraierly burst oul nl ihe top.' Thomu ^1*$^ & Dominican pticit, who lived in Mexico from 162; iM 1A3;. Me icda at a Ronl ile^l about Ntcaiaguii. Alraut Leon he layi, ■tat ii ** u vcfy cunood a ifcc sImikUiut of all thing* (nr the hie of man. more than in any extra- mAhstt ncbet, which iheie *it not M niuch enjoyed, u in other part& of .4«9»a(. Tbej air cimicntrfi with tine garden*, wiUi variety of singing h«di mnd pAnrXt. vith plenty of 6ih athI 9e*h, which ii chcan, and wilh Bv kMMea, Mtd Mt \€m\ a ileliriout, tiiiie nnd idle life. . . . And ctpccially VIM the pleaMirc of ihii City it all that rrovinne of /^uanipta, rolled CSpuiiard* Mtk.mtti Patailiic ... the f jtradise of Amaita," *s MS wf% that It oa* " not soe pleaaani u Gage makes i(." CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. travelled in these parts, recommends it to the World as the '^^ pleasantest place in all America, and calls it the Paradice of the Indies. Indeed if we consider the Advantage of its Situation, we may find it surpassing most Places for Health and pleasure in America, for the Country about it is of a sandy Soil, which soon drinks up all the Rain that falls, to which these parts are much subject. It is incompassed with Savannahs; so that they have the benefit of the Breezes coming from any quarter; all which makes it a very healthy Place. It is a place of no great Trade, and therefore not rich in Money. Their Wealth lies in their Pastures, and Cattle, and Plantations of Sugar. It is said that they make Cordage here of Hemp, but if they have any such Manufactory, it is at some distance from the Town, for here is no sign of any such thing. Thither our Men were now marching ; they went from the Canoas about 8 a clock. Captain Townley, with 80 of the briskest Men, marched before. Captain Swan with 100 Men marched next, and Captain Davis with 170 Men marched next, and Captain Knight brought up the Rear. Captain Townley, who was near 2 mile a head of the rest, met about 70 Horsemen 4 mile before he came to the City, but they never stood him. About 3 a clock Captain Townley, only with his 80 men, entered the Town, and was briskly charged in a broad Street, with 170 or 200 Spanish Horsemen, but 2 or 3 of their Leaders being knock'd down, the rest fled. Their Foot consisted of about 500 men, which were drawn up in the Parade ; for the Spaniards in these parts make a large square' in every Town, the' the Town itself be small. This Square is called the Parade : commonly the Church makes one side of it, and the Gentlemens Houses, with their Galleries about them, the other. But the Foot also seeing their Horse retire, left an empty City to Captain Townley; beginning to save themselves by flight. Captain Swan came in about 4 a clock, Captain Davis with his Men about 5, and Captain Knight with as many Men as he could incourage to march, came in about 6, but he left many Men tired on the Road ; these, as is usual, came 238 CITY OF LEON TAKEN AXD BCRXT (iropping to ooe or ivo at x tiac. js t^cf aoc aUc The , aott tnomtng ibe Spunmli Idird erne of ov lined M^; ' he was a stout old Grr? headed Ma&, a^ed tikom S4, vfco faadaerred under Olhna-^ mtketnKof xke IrA BcbefioB; •ftcr which he was at Januo, aad bd folkif d. Rivslioemg cner snce. He would doc acccfc of the tMet vor Mea made lum to tajry ashore, bat and he vohU T mtin e at (tr as the best of tbcm: and whea ■Miuw ded by dv Spaniarda, he refused to take Quarter, bat da d Mu g t d lot Gun amongst th em , keeping a Rstol sdU d ia iged. ao dwf ihoc him dead ai a dtstaooe. Hb name was Smn;* be was a Tcry mer r y hearty oid Man, and ahnys used to declare be would never take Quarter : Bat they took Mr. Smith who was tired also ; be was a Mercbant b c l ong ia g to Captaio Swan, and being carried beAve tbe Gotonoor td Leon, was known by a Mohtta Womaa tbat waited 00 him. Mr. Smith had lived rnaoT' yean in tbe Canaries, «nd could speak and write Tery ^>od %aniah, and it was ;Here ibis Mutatta Woman r e men Ancd Inm. He bcsi^ umtned how many Men we were, aud 1000 at tbe Ctty, .^-d 500 at tbe Onoas, which nude wdl for us at the .ioan, who straggling about every day, m%ht easily have -'^ea destroyed. But this so daunted the Govcmour, that ■r did never offer to molest our Men, although he had "th hjm above 1000 Men, is Mr. Smith guessed. He ni in a Flag of Truce about Noon, pretending to Ransom '~c Town, rather than let it be burnt, hut our Capuins manded 300000 Pieces of Eight for iu Ransom, and as jch Provision as would victual fooo Men 4 months, and '•Ir. Smith to be Ransomed for some of their Prisoners; -t tbe Spaniards did not intend to Ransom the Town, .t only capitulated day after day to prolor^ time, till they -ij got more Men. Our Captains therefore, considering ■^ (Tiscancc that they were from the Canoas, resolved to T marching down. The l4lh day in the Morning, they rdered the City to be set on fire, which was presently : •oe, and then ihey came away : but they took more time ' OlnTT CnMBwriL ■ JobnSwj CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. in coming down than in going up. The 1 5th day in the 1685 morning, the Spaniards sent in Mr. Smith, and had a Gentlewoman in exchange. Then our Captains sent a Letter to the Governour, to acquaint him, that they in- tended next to visit Rea Lejo, and desired to meet him there : they also released a Gentleman, on his promise of paying 150 Beefs for his Ransom, and .to deliver them to us at Rea Lejo ; and the same day our Men came to their Canoas : where having staid all night, the next morning we all entered our Canoas, and came to the Harbour of Rea Lejo, and in the afternoon our Ships came thither to an Anchor. The Creek that leads to Rea Lejo, lyeth from the N. W. part, of the Harbour, and it runs in Northerly. It is about 2 Leagues from the Island in the Harbours mouth to the Town ; two thirds of the way it is broad, then you enter a narrow deep Creek, bordered on both sides with Red Mangrove Trees, whose limbs reach almost from one side to the other. A mile from the mouth of the Creek it turns away West. There the Spaniards have made a very strong Breast-work, fronting towards the mouth of the Creek, in which were placed 100 Soldiers to hinder us from landing : and 20 yards below that Breast-work there was a Chain of great Trees placed cross the Creek, so that 10 Men could have kept off 5 cx) or 1000. When we came in sight of the Breast-work we fired but two Guns, and they all ran away : and we were after- wards near half an hour cutting the Boom or Chain. Here we landed, and marched to the Town of Ria Lexa, or Rea Lejo, which is about a mile from hence. This Town stands on a Plain by a small River. It is a pretty large Town with 3 Churches, and an Hospital that hath a fine Garden belong- ing to it : besides many large fair Houses, they all stand at a good distance one from another, with yards about them. This is a very sickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an Hospital ; for it is seated so nigh the Creeks and Swamps, that is never free from a noisom smell. The Land about it is a strong yellow Clay : yet where the Town stands it seems to be Sand. Here are several sorts 240 THE CUAVA— PRICKlX-TEMt Fruits, as Guivo's. Pwc-»p^k%, Hear*. The Pine-ipple a The Guava Fruit grows o* s i whose Bark is smooth tad ■liiiiA. ck and snull, the leaf somewbac Su ifee k^«f ml Fruit much like a Pen*. inA « thin liad; s « fti «f small hard Seeds, and il say be omm vMk mit V*> which ts a thing very me in fk !■&■ : fcr flMK faa^ both in the East or West-jiKiie&, tft Ml «f dMHif, wkim, ji!savory juice, before it is r^cv Atea^ fia^^ tmrna^ iftcrwards. When this hmt s Ofc k k fdkv, a^. aad ■ cry pIcasanL It bakes as «di m a Far, aatf k XHy ke .-(•ddletl. and it maka good Rea. ThoK ae ^f Amis < rts, different in shape, citte. ^id cakxr. TW kndc «f • oic is ^llow, of oihen nd. Wks ifck Finit k ^Boi jreen, it is binding, whea ripe, it k li—iMag. The Prickle-Pcar, Budi.crShrah.«fiha«4laccs. This priddjr Sfamb '*'*g*— SMH in lanBa wamtf zrounds; and they thrive best m fiaoes tha aicaarilK Sea: especially where the Sand k mbaak. TWTre, w Shrab, is j or 4 foot In^ Mwr n fi^ g Asdi wad loBKka; aai 00 each bnnch 1 or 3 Icsscl TIttae Irawea (if I ai^ call them so) are round, as bratd ^njf wgf as fbe fMlai kT a Man's hand, and as thkk ; tick mAmamet Oc Honar kzk ; these leares are fenced nmad ■miA Strang fncilei above an inch long. The Fnns grows ai Ak brAa edge of the leaf : tt k as big as a lar^ Fhunli, growkig SBaO aear the leaf, and iMg towards tlx cop, where k opeas Bee a Medlar. This Fruit at first k green like the In, fma whence it springs with small PricUes ahooi it ; but whea npe it k of a deep red cokmr. The tnkde k AiU much esteemed Scarlet. The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's : They are planted in the Country about Guatimala, and about Cheape and Guaxaca, all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico. The Silvester is a red Grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit ; as doth also the Tree that bears it. There first shoots forth a yellow Flower, then comes the Fruit, which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit. The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide. The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains, they fall out with the least touch or shake. The Indians that gather them hold a Dish under to receive the Seed, and then shake it down. These Trees grow wild ; and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed: but of the Cochineel-fruits, 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of Insects. The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel ; and so like it as to be often mistaken for it, but it is not near so valuable. I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows, and of the Cochineel ; but was never fully satisfied, till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West-Indies, and some years where these grow ; and from him I had these relations. He was a very intelligent Person, and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campeachy ; therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay, where I was well acquainted my self, living there 3 years. He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands, so that I could have no distrust of what he related. When we first saw the Mountain of Guatamala, we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it. As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no Fire, but a little Smoak proceeding from it. The Land by the Sea was of a good height, yet but low in comparison with that in the Country. The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore, was full of floating Trees, or Drift- Wood, as it is called, (of which I have seen a great deal, but no where so much as here,) and Pumice-stones floating, which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains, and washed down to the shore by the Rains, which are very 248 THE SEA COAST and frequent in this Country ; and on the side of [onduras it is excessively wet. " The 24th day we were in lat. 1+ d. 30 m. North, and ihc Weather more settled. Then Captain Townley took •rith him 106 Men in 9 Canoas, and went away to the Westward, where he intended to Land, and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick Men, we having at this time near half our Men sick, and many were dead, tince we left Rea Lcjo. We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled, and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next, that Captain Townley might get the of us. The 26th day wc made sail again, coasting to the West- It having the Wind at North and fair weather. We n along by a tract of very high Land, which came from le Eastward, more within LanJ than we could see, after fell in with it, it hare us company for about 10 leagues, ' ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West, Tbert we had a |>crfect view of a pleasant low Country, which seemed 10 be rich in Pasturage for Cattle. It was plcntiful]y furnished with Groves of green Trees, mixt anong the grassy Savannahs : Here the Land was fenced hota (he Sea with high sandy Hills, for the Waves all aloc^ this Coast run high, and beat against the shore very bonterously, making the Land wholly unapproachable in " or Canoas : So wc coasted still along by this low Land, 8 or 9 leagues farther, keeping close to the shore for of missing Capt. Townley. We lay by in the Night, in the Day made an casie sail. The 2d day of (Xiobcr Captain Townley came aboard ; he had coasted along shore in hts Canoas, seeking for an CBtrance, but found none. At last, being out uf hopes to iad lay Bay, Creek, or River, into which he might safely ; he put ashore on a sandy Bay, but overset all his Caoou; he had one Man drowned, and several lost their Armt, and some of them that had not waxt up their Cutragc * or Catouche Boxes, wet all their Powder. Captain ' Ciirirulec^ 249 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES . Townley with much ado got ashore, and dragged the 5 Canoas up dry on the Bay ; then every Man searched his Catouche-box, and drew the wet powder out of his Gun, and provided to march into the Country, but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford, they were forced to return again to their Canoas. In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm ; the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them, but were immedi- ately repulsed, and made greater speed back than they had done forward. Captain Townley followed them, but not far for fear of his Canoas. These Men came from Tegu- antapeque,^ a Town that Captain Townley went chiefly to seek, because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there ; but whether it was run away at this time, or rather Captain Townley and his Men were short-sighted, I know not ; but they could not find it. Upon his return we presently made sail, coasting still Westward, having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale. We kept within 2 mile of the shore, sounding all the way ; and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom; at 8 miles distance 21 fathom, gross Sand. We saw no opening, nor sign of any place to land at, so we sailed about 20 leagues farther, and came to a small high Island called Tangola, where there is good anchoring. The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water, and lieth about a league from the shore. The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher, and very woody. We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco. This Port is in lat. 1 5 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the Harbour, on the East-side, there is a little Island close by the shore ; and on the West-side of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock, which by the con- tinual working of the Sea in and out makes a great noise, which may be heard a great way. Every Surge that comes ^ Tehuantepec, on the river of that name. 250 in t< GUATULCO— CAPAUTA RIVER forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top, as oi Pip€^ from whence it flies out just like the blowing of "^*S 'Whale ; to which the Spaniards also liken it. They call Rock and Spout the BufFadore : upon what account I _ know not. Kven in the calmest Seasons the Sea beats in their, nuking the Water spout out at the hole : so that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by. The Harbour b about 3 mile deep, and one mile broad ; it runs in N. W. But the West-side of the Harbour is best to ride in for smalt Ships ; for there you may ride land-locked : whereas any where else you arc open to the S. W. Winds, which often blow here. There is good clean ground any where, atkl good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom ; it a bounded with a smooth sandy shore, very good to land at ; and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook frcah Water running into the Sea. Here formerly stood imall Spanish Town, or Vill^e, which was taken by Sir icis Drake : ' but now there is nothing remaining of it, a little Chapi»el standing among the Trees, about paces from the Sea. The Land appears in small short parallel to the shore, and to each other ; the inner- ttill gradually higher than that nearer the shore ; and ihcy are ill cloathed with very high flourishing Trees, that it is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a dmznce: I have no where seen any thing like it. At this place Captain Swan, who had been very sick, came ashore, and all the sick Men with him, and the Surgeon to tend them. Captain Townley again took a lompany of Men with him, and went into the Country to -•xk for Houses or Inhabitants. He marched away to the Easrward, atul came to the River Capalita : which is a swift River, yet deep near the mouth, and is about a league (^roin Guatulco. There 2 of his Men swam over the River, »nd took 3 Indians that were placed there, as Centincls, to *atch for our coming. These could none of them speak ' On the ijlti April, 157^ Drake entereil the luwn quietly, while ihe I tWrajei were - season and cured them, and freighted our Vessel. ■e there might have had Turtle enough for food, and of Vinello's. Mr Cree first shewed ^me those at Kca-toro. At, or near a Town also, called Caihooca,' ■ the Bay cf Campcachy, these Cods are found. They are nonly sold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in : West-Indies, and are sold by the Druggist, for they are much used among Chocolate to perfume it. Some will use them among Tobacco, for it gives a delicate scent. I never bard of »ny Vinello's but here in this Country, about Cai- hooca, and at Bocca-toro. The Indians of this Village could speak but little Sriuitsh. They seemed to be a poor innocent People : and ■V them wc understood, that here are very few Spaniards .n these parts; yet all the Indians hereabout are under them. The Land from the Sea to their Houses is black Earth, mixi with some stones and Rocks ; all the way full ■A very high Trees. The loth day wc sent 4 Canoas to the Westward, who were ordered to lie for us at Port Angels ; ' where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get Prisooers, that might give us a better account of the Country than at present we could have; and we followed them with •nu Ships, all our Men being now pretty well recovered of 'be Fcrer, which had raged amongst us ever since wc iepuied from Kea Lejo. L Port Anfcb : Port dc Ani;cies, Ju !un|; i/ti" jj' W. CHAP. IX They set out from Guatulco, The Isle Sacrificio, Port Angels. Jaccals. A narrow Escape, The rock Algatross^ and the neighbouring CmtjI. Snooksy a sort of Fish. The Town of Acapulco, Of the Traii it drives with the Philippine Islands, The Haven of Acapubt. A Tornado. Port Marquis. Captain Townley mates a fndtlm Attempt. A long sandy Bay^ but very rough Seas, The Palmrtm^ great and small. The Hill of Petaplan. A poor Indian FlUagim Jew-fish. Chequetany a good Harbour. Estapa ; Muscles then. A Caravan of Mules taken. A Hill near Thelupan. The Ceast hereabouts. The Volcan^ Town^ Valley^ and Bay of Cetma. Sallagua Port. Oarrha. Ragged Hills. Coronada^ er the Crown- Land. Cape Corrientes. Isles of Chametly. The Citj Purification, V alder as ; or the Valley of Flags. They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townley leaves them with the Dariem Indians. The Point and Isles of Pontique, Other Isles of Chamtt" ley. The Penguin-fruity the yellow and the red. Seals here. Of the River of Cullacan^ and the Trade of a Town there with CetB^ fornia. Massac Ian. River and Town of Rosario. Caput CavaX^ and another Hill. The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast, The River of Oleta. River of St. J ago. Maxentelba Rock^ and Zelisco Hill. Sancta Pecaque Town in the River of St. J ago. Of Compostella. Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque. OfCaB' fornia ; whether an Island or not : and of the North JVest and North East Passage. A Method proposed for Discovery of the North TVest and North East Passages. Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Capt. Swan proposes a Voyage to the East-Indies. Valley of Balderas again^ and Cape Corrientes. The Reason of their ill-success on the Mexican Coasty and Departure thence fir the East-Indies. T was the 12th of October, 1685, when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships. The Land here lies along West, and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues, and the Sea winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land winds at N. We 254 I XHE ISLE SACRIFICIO hw r fair weather, and but little wind. We coasted . ^^^Mi the ^Ve3t^va^d, keeping as near the shore as we ' ^Bhtct the benefit of the Land winds, for the Sea winds ^Be right against us ; and we found a current setting to ^■EastwarxT which kept iis back, and obliged us to anchor Htfae Island SacriBcio, which is a small green Island about Bf a mile long. It lieth about a league to the West of Btttulco, and about half a mile from the Main. There knu to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island ; but it is llH of Rocks. Ihe best riding is between the Island and Be Main ; there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water. Here rum a pretty strong tide ; the Sea riseth and falleth ftflr 6 foot up and down. I The 1 8th day wc sailed from hence, coasting to the PVcttward after our Canoas. We kept near the shore, ■btch was all sandy Bays; the Country pretty high and •oody, and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore. The iind day 2 of our Canoas came aboard, and told us they tud been a great way to the Westward, but could not find ?•*% Angels. They had attempted to land the day before, at t yibce where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding, in hope* ID get &ome of them ; but the Sea run so high, ■tut they ovcr-»ct both Canoas, and wet all their Arms, tnd Um 4 Guns, and had one Man drowned,' and with much ado got off again. They could give no account of the other 1 Canoas, for they lost company the first night that ihey went from CJuatuIco, and had not seen them HIKV. We Wen: now abrest of Port Angels, though our Men in the Canots did not know it ; therefore we went in and lacbored there. This is a broad open Bay, with 2 or 3 Rocks at the Wcst-stdc. Here is good anchoring all over the Bay, in jo or 20 or 12 fathom Water; but you must ride open to all Winds, except the Land Winds, till you e into 12 or 13 fathom Water; then you are sheltered from the W. S. W, which arc the common Trade Winds. TIk Tide riseth here about 5 foot ; the Flood sets to the ■ 'Townly** tinanenwuier wunul Abnham lliuna" (Ori^'ina/ J/S,). CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this "^5 Bay is bad ; the place of landing is close by the West-side, behind a few Rocks ; here always goes a great swell. The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco, but there is a great difference between them. For Guatulco is almost Landlocked, and this an open road, and no one would easily know it by their Character of it, but by its marks and its latitude, which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas, which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us, did not know it, (not thinking this to be that fine Harbour) and therefore went farther ; 2 of them, as I said before, returned again, but the other 2 were not yet come to us. The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high, the Earth sandy and yellow, in some places red ; it is partly Woodland, partly Savannahs. The Trees in the Woods are large and tall, and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass. Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm, belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23d day we landed about 100 men and marched thither, where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs, and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz ; and some Hogs, and Cocks and Hens : but the Owners or Overseers were gone. We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh Provision, but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard, because the Way was so long, and our Men but weak, and a great wide River to ford. Therefore we returned again from thence the 26th day, and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the Men that stay'd aboard. The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals, as we sup- posed them to be, barking all night long, not far from us. None of us saw these ; but I do verily believe they were Jaccals ; ^ tho' I did never see those Creatures in America, nor hear any but at this time. We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company. We got aboard in the evening ; but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas. * Probably coyotes. 256 A NARROW ESCAPE The 17th day in the morning we sailed from hence, I the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea-Wind came ' noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored 16 fathom Water, by a small rocky Island, which 1 about half a mile from the Main, and 6 leagues West- ". from Port Angels. The Spaniards give no account Island in their Pilot-book. The 28th day wc 1 again with the Land Wind : in the afternoon the Sea * blew hard, and we sprung our Main Top-mast. , coast is full of small Hills and Valleys, and a great I in upon the shore. In the night we met with the t of our Canoas that went from us at Guatuko. had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angels. back from thence they went into a River' to Iter, and were encountered by 150 Spaniards, yet led their Water in spight of them, but had one ihot thro" the Thigh. Afterward they went into a Lwune/ tir Lake of Salt-water, where they found much drieo Fish, and brought some aboard. We being now atvcK of that place, sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 Men for more Fish. The Mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol shot wide, and on both sides are pretty high Rocks, so coovmicntly placed by Nature, that many Men may ahKond behind ; and within the Rock and Lagune opens wide on both sides. The Spaniards tieing alarmed by our 1 Cwou that had been there 2 or three days before, came armed it> this Place to secure their Kish ; and seeing our Canoa coming, ihey lay snug behind the Rocks, and nflcred the C^noa to pass in, then they fired their Volley, and wounded 5 of our Men. Our people were a little aornrised at this sudden Adventure, yet tired their Guns, and rowed farther into the Lagune, for they durst not adicsture to come out again through the narrow Entrance, I near a quarter of a Mile in length. Therefore f rowed into the middle of the Lagune, where they lay ' Xot BOW lo b* tdeniified. P«iliiip4 the Rio de b Cakni menlioned ■ Xoc bow 10 be kicniified. The descnption tits the Laui ^ntrmilca [nxn Acaiiutcn{u> the ESE.). DampicT'i M£ » « ,5^40 S. fOL I. 257 I I adiKSti c Rio de b Calcm menlioned I iption fits the Lauuna Nupa, ^^^| K.). DampicT'i MS. gives (h« ^^H CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES . out of Gun-shot, and looked about to see if there was not 5 another Passage to get out at, broader than that by which they entred, but could see none. So they lay still two days and three Nights, in hopes that we should come to seek them ; but we lay off at Sea, about 3 leagues distant, waiting for their return, supposing by their long absence, that they had made some greater Discovery, and were gone farther than the Fish-Range ; because it is usual with Privateers when they enter upon such designs, to search- farther than they proposed, if they meet any Encourag- ment. But Capt. Townley and his Bark being nearer the shore, heard some Guns fired in the Lagune. So he mann'd his Canoa, and went towards the shore, and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks, made a free passage for our Men to come out of their pound, where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards. They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October. This Lagune is about the lat. of 1 6 d. 40 m. North. From hence we made sail again, coasting to the West- ward, having fair Weather and a Current setting to the West. The second day of November we past by a Rock, called by the Spaniards the Algatross. The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height, and woody, and more within the Country Mountainous. Here are 7 or 8 white Cliflfe by the Sea, which are very remarkable, because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 Mile to the West of the Algatross Rock. There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliflfs, 4 or 5 Mile off at Sea. Two leagues to the West of these Clifl^ there is a pretty large River, which forms a small Island at its Mouth. The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy, but the West Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter. On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Brestwork, to hinder an Enemy from landing, or filling Water. The 3d day we Anchored abrest of this River, in 14 fathom Water, about a Mile and half off shore. The next Morning we mann'd our Canoas, and went ashore to the 258 SNOOKS, A SORT OF FEH rotted by a>» ahhou^ k^ oamben, and in mtnf plxa iamfied «i titdr mat of •mall Fire-rav ^ i^7 ^"^ ^k ^ iUtheSe»Coasti,iirif a^th»higg r iiiBM «c found a gnat deal rf SA, >iiii,lg MAbi^ ai 1 for to salt Fbh, whidi ckcf afte m 4e Lapas. Tx I otaenred here masdr. wcxe vfctf «c ofl Sbs^b^^ i I Sa fi&h DOT Frail Watcer U» ba lov iia ■■■! m ah Likes. Tha Fab s iboK a Samt feaa^ ^ : lad as thick a» tlie sdbU cf a li^^l^^vH^ a^^H l»d: It h>thScale«of»»*itMfc \\U\\,mdimgmi Horn tbe Spaniards cakr tkes I bav mi^ fiv w t'ooad to7 Nets, Hoots, or Lkes; n^ler ?b aas BoatfCr Cantm, among ibem.aB afl t^ Cbk. ckc Slap 1 shall mcntiaa at J^fapJca We marched two or ilMe ud met with bttt ooe Home^ IHbooct. who informed m ttf* a SUp th« warn km% ai u Acapuko; she came ham limL Ofom Taa wiating a good SUp, t^oaf^ now he had an «ff«« of getting OEK, if be eooU peraaade Im Mia i» «m vitfa lum into the Haihnv af Aaf^D% Md iiaA Lbos Ship out. Tbenfore he i fennd not ocdf aJI bii ovn tf of Cspcaia Svaa** Ma , because ft oraioa bnag amnoe mA a^ he r time might be much betfcr s r selves with food, ud hoc mm fimKy af rer where we now were, m we woe iaCBemad bf 4 Kniner, who offered to c o ndna *■ m Ae aiKe n ^L But ndther the praenc a e cc a iiy , nar G^o^ h a inKdT A^ *«*T ^ ** : '^ ' »»*fc«» lfc« MS. £ T«i^T «M« « MM. te k». »5» I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. perswasion availed any thing, no nor yet their own interest ; ^^5 for the great design we had then in hand, was to lie and wait for a rich Ship ^ which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from the Philippine Islands. But it was neces- sary we should be well stored with Provisions, to enable us to cruise about, and wait the time of her coming. How- ever, Townley's Party prevailing, we only filled our Water here, and made ready to be gone. So the 5th day in the Afternoon we sailed again, coasting to the Westward, to- wards Acapulco. The 7th day in the Afternoon, being about twelve Leagues from the shore, we saw the high Land of Acapulco, which is very remarkable : for there is a round Hill standing between 2 other Hills; the Wester- most of which is the biggest and highest, and hath two hillocks like two Paps on its top : the Eastermost Hill is higher and sharper than the middlemost. From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea, ending in a high round point. There is no Land shaped like this on all the coast. In the evening Captain Townley went away from the Ships with 140 Men in 12 Canoas, to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour. Acapulco* is a pretty large Town, 17 deg. North of the Equator. It is the Sea-Port for the City of Mexico, on the West side of the Continent ; as La Vera Cruz, or St. John d'Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hispania, is on the North side. This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast ; for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom, here being, as I have said, neither Boats, Barks nor Ships, (that I could ever see) unless only what come hither from other parts, and * The Manila galleon. She sailed from Manila, in Luzon, in the July of each year, and generally arrived at Acapulco before the February following. She was always a ship of great tonnage, and often she carried as many as five hundred passengers and seamen. Her lading usually consisted of spices, China silks, Indian textiles, "which are much worn in America," and a quantity of goldsmith's work. 2 Acapulco. "This, tho' call'd a City scarce deserves the name of a Village, the Houses being all of Mud Walls, and thatchM. The Place is dirty and inconvenient. The only good Thing belonging to it, is the natural Security." — Cooke (in 1712). The harbour is one of the best in the world. 260 SHIPS THAT TRADE WITH MANILA Boats near the S. E. end of California ; as I guess, t the intercourse between that and the Main, for Pearl- Ine Ship* that Trade hither are only 3, two that con- atiy go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia,' : of the Philippine Islands, and one Ship more every to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly rives a little before Christmas ; she brings them Quick- llvcr. Cacao, and Pieces of Eight. Here she stays till the iiUa Ships arrive, and then takes in a Cargo of Spices, , CaIiicocng no heed to the woman^ stories. Some of the buccaneer 3 wer« lor 265 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. full of Bulls and Cows; and here the Carrier before- '^5 mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules, not having dared to advance all this while, as not knowing where we lay ; so his own fear made him, his Mules, and all his Goods, become a Prey to us. He had 40 Packs of Flower, some Chocolate, a great many small Cheeses, and abundance of Earthen Ware. The Eatables we brought away, but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for, and therefore left them. The Mules were about 60: We brought our Prize with them to the Shore, and so turned them away. Here we also killed some Cows, and brought with us to our Canoas. In the Afternoon our Ships came to an Anchor half a Mile from the place where we landed ; and then we went aboard. Captain Townley seeing our good success, went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows; for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us. The Land is very woody, of a good fertile Soil, watered with many small Rivers ; yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea. Capt. Townley kill'd 18 Beefs, and after he came aboard, our Men, contrary to Captain Swan's inclination, gave Capt. Townley part of the Flower which we took ashore. Aftewards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her, and her Children, and put her and two of them ashore ; but one of them, a very pretty Boy, about 7 or 8 Years old, Capt. Swan kept. The Woman cried, and begg'd hard to have him ; but Capt. Swan would not, but promised to make much of him, and was as good as his word. He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit, Courage, and Dexterity; I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions. The 2 1 St day in the evening, we sailed hence with the Land-Wind. The Land-Winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-Winds at W. S. W. We had fair Weather, and Coasted along to the Westward. The Land is high, and full of ragged Hills; and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains. The 25th day wc were abrest of a very remarkable HilV which towring * Probably Taneitaitoro Peak. 266 THE COASTING ALONG the rest of its fellows, is divided in the top. Jces two small parts. It is in lat. 1 8 li. 8 m. North. F Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thciupan this Hil which ' uld ha< ted if \ id visitei hire found the way to it. The 26th day Captain Swan ind Captain Townlcy, with 200 Men, of whom I was one, ■eat in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima, a rich fi»£c hr report, but how far within Land I could never lam : for, as I said before, here is no Trade by Sea, and -crcfore vre could never get Guides to inform us, or niuct U4 to any Town, but one or two, on this Coast : j;J there is never a Town that licth open to the Sea but ^ctpulco ; and therefore our search was commonly fruit- ^:^ as now ; for we rowed above 20 Leagues along shore, i->] found it a very bad Coast to Land. We saw no Hotuc, nor sign of Inhabitants, although we past by a fine V»llcy, c&llcd the Valley of Maguella ; only at two places, the one at our first setting out on this Expedition, and the Jitiw at the end of it. we saw a Horseman set, as we tuppowd, as a Centinct, to watch us. At both places wc Uadcd with difficulty, and at each place we followed the tndc of the Horse on the sandy Bay; but where they ottered the Woods wc lost the track, and although we diligently scarcht for it, yet we could find it no more ; so wv were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from. The 28th day, being tired and hopeless to find any Town, we went aboard our Ships, that now come abmt of the place where we were ; for ahnys when we leave our Ships, wc cither order a certain e of meeting, or else leave them a sign to know where e are, by making one or more great Smokes : yet we had 1 ntte to hive been ruin'd by such a signal as this, in a ' Voyage under Captain Sharp, when we made that ifortuttatc Attempt upon Arica, which is mentioned in ie"Histaryof the Buccaneers." For upon the routing our 1, and taking several of them,' some of those so taken * 7W wmiiilnl BMB hid been left in it church with the docton. Wben B tbeir retreat, they called 10 the doctors to leaw their ~ "■ n IxKly 10 ihe iMMit. The doc — -■^-j' - 267 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. told the Spaniards, that it was agreed between them and ^^^5 their Companions on board, to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other, as soon as the Town should be taken, as a signal to the Ship, that it might safely enter the Harbour. The Spaniards made these Smokes presently: 1 was then among those who staid on board ; and whether the signal was not so exactly made, or some other dis^ couragement happen'd, I remember not, but we forbore going in, till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming oflF in their Canoas. Had we enter'd the Port upon the false signal, we must have been taken or sunk ; for we must have past close by the Fort, and could have had no Wind to bring us out, till the Land- Wind should rise in the night. But to our present Voyage : After we came aboard wc saw the Volcan of Colima.^ This is a very high Mountain, in about i8 d. 36 m. North, standing 5 or 6 Leagues from the Sea, in the midst of a pleasant Valley. It appears with 2 sharp peeks, from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke. The Valley in which this Volcan stands, is called the Valley of Colima, from the Town it self which stands there not far from the Volcan. The Town is said to be great and rich, the chief of all its Neighbourhood : and the Valley in which it is seated, by the relation which the Spaniards give of it, is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico. This Valley is about ten or twelve leagues wide by the Sea, where it makes a small Bay : but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not. It is said to be full of Cacao-gardens, Fields of Corn, Wheat, and Plantain-Walks. The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore ; but there is no going ashore for the violence of the Waves. The Land within it is low all along, and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side ; at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea, but it hath such a great Bar, or sandy Shoal, that when we were here, drinking," and paid no attention to the call. They were taken by the Spaniards, who bullied, or tortured, them into revealing the private sipa^ Ringrose says that the signal of the "smokes" was to call the boats into the harbour, but no doubt the signal applied also to the ship. ^ ^ Mount Colima. It is about 11,700 ft. in height. 1 268 ] \ u i ^^^m PORT OF SALLAGUA ^^HHc or Onoa could possibly enter, the Sea running . ^Fiugh upon the Bar ; otherwise, 1 judge, we should have ' ^hdc some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley. On ^fce West side of the River the Savannah-land begins, and runs to the other aide of the Valley. We had but little Wind when we came aboard, therefore we lay off this Bay Bt Afternoon and the Night ensuing.' The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships ith 100 Men, intending at the first convenient place to 1 and search about for a path : for the Spanish Books E mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts, especially e called Salitgua, to the West of this Bay. Our Canoas wed along as near the shore as they could, but the Sea went so high that they could not land. About 10 or 11 1 Clock. 3 Horsemen came near the shore, and one of them t I Bottle out of his Pocket, and dratik to our Men. IFhilc he was drinking, one of our Men snatch'd up his , and let drive at him, and kill'd his Horse: so his t immediately set spurs 10 his Horse and rode away, the other to come after a foot. But he being , made but slow haste ; therefore two of our Men I themselves, and swam ashore to take him. But he rud a Machcat, or long Knife, wherewith he kept them ir^h from seizing him. they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves, or offend him. The 30th dmj our Men came all aboard again, for they could not &em1 May place to land in. The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagaa.* This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a jmvi deep Bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, «lbch makc«, as it were, two Harbours. Ships may ride rely in cither, but the West Harbour is the best : there » good Anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom, and a ~* *E of fresh Water runs into the Sea. Here we saw a V thatched House, and a great many Spaniards both t ' •T4ai aicbt 1 iron an ague," iay» the M.S., "whidi afterwards turned ptti ^nprnf utd ImtMlil me in gTi-ni dnnjii-T of my life." ' TtabiUty HauasBlo Day, but perhapc Pnito Navidttd, m few mtltr* r I0 the weal. The " Caiigiu " id the old Spanish charts might well CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Horse and Foot, with Drums beating, and Colours flying in '^^5 defiance of us, as we thought. We took no notice of them till the next morning, and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage ; but they presently withdrew. The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot, but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down, and then they drew off, our Men pursuing them. At last, 2 of our Men ^ took two Horses that had lost their Riders, and mounting them, rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them, thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence, but had like to have been taken themselves : for 4 Spaniards surrounded them, after they had discharged their Pistols, and unhorsed them ; and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue, they must have yielded, or have been killed. They were both cut in 2 or 3 places, but their wounds were not mortal. The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them, and mounting their Horses, speeded after their Consorts, who were marched away into the Country. Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country, followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Wood ; but finding no sign of In- habitants, they returned again. In their way back they took two Mulatto's, who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts ; therefore they had skulked in the Woods, and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us, that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha, from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came : That this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days ; and that there is no place of consequence nearer : That the Country is very poor, and thiiily in- habited. They said also, that these Men came to assist the Phillipine Ship, that was every day expected here, to put ashore Passengers for Mexico. The Spanish Pilot-Books* mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts; but we could not find it, nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners. ^ " The name of one of them was Thomas Crawfot " {Original MS.). ' The Spanish Western Pilot-Books of this date are generally little more than rough guides to the coast. THE AUTHOR TAKEN SICK Wc now intended to cruise off Cape Corricntes, to wait a* §or the Phillippinc Ship. So the 6th day of December we set '^^ wil, coKsting to the Westward, towards Cape Corricntes. We had fair Weather, and but little Wind ; the Sea-Breezes N. W. atKl the Land-Wind at N. The Und is of an iDdiffornt beighth, full of ragged Points, which at a distance appear like Islands : The Country is very woody, but the Trees arc not high, nor very big. Here I was taken sick of a Fever and Ague that after- wards turned to a Dropsie, which I laboured under a long after; and many of our Men died of this Distemper, our Surgeons used their greatest skill to preserve Lives. The Dropsie is a general distemper on this snd the Natives say, that the best remedy they can for it, b the Stone or Cod of an Allegator (of which have 4, one near each Leg, within the Flesh) pulver- and drunk in Water : This Receipt we also found in an Almanack made at Mexico : I would tried it, hut we found no Allegators here, though ifcctc are KVerat. There are many good Harbours between Sallagua and Corrienlcs : but we passed by them all. As we drew the Cape, the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent :b£h, full of white Cliffs; but in the Country the Land ligh and barren, and full of sharp peeked Hills, un- sant to the sight. To the West of this ragged Land Chain of Mountains running parallel with the Shore ; ;iid on the West with a gentle descent ; but on the Ea*t ride they keep their heighth, ending with a high steep Mountain, which hath three small sharp peeked tops, somc- vfaat resembling a Crown ; and therefore called by the Sfaaiards, Coronada, the Crown Land. The I ith day ' we were fair in sight of Cape Corriemes, k bora N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The 0« dv fcb day, aritording to the MS., the biiccancert killed "the lAtni wfnch wa* taken ni Sallagua," for no app.-ircn' ivs Uampicr; '"yet these blood>' iniKt ■ ftuhjr (elUiwt arc cmntinly but uidiiuiry felluws in the face ofiheir Oa the ^ (by " wee had lome ililIei«no: wiili I'ownly And his ? CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Cape is of an indifferent heighth, with steep Rocks to the '^5 Sea. It is flat and even on the top, cloathed with Woods : The Land in the Country is high and doubled. This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from TenarifFto be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude West- ward, according to our Course; and according to this reckoning, I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. so that the difiFerence of time is 8 hours, and almost 6 minutes. Here we had resolved to cruize for the Philippine Ship, because she always makes this Cape in her Voyage home- ward. We were (as I have said) four Ships in Company ; Captain Swan, and his Tender ; Captain Townley, and his Tender. It was so ordered, that Captain Swan should lye 8 or 10 leagues off shore, and the rest about a league distant each from other, between him and the Cape, that so we might not miss the Philippine Ship ; but we wanted Pro- vision, and therefore we sent Capt. Townley*s Bark, with 50 or 60 Men to the West of the Cape, to search about for some Town or Plantations, where we might get Pro- vision of any sort. The rest of us in the mean time cruiz- ing in our Stations. The 17th day the Bark came to us again, but had got nothing, for they could not get about the Cape, because the Wind on this Coast is commonly between the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Westward ; but they left 4 Canoas with 46 Men at the Cape, who resolved to row to the Westward. The i8th day we sailed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water. The Keys or Islands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes. They are small, low, and woody, in- vironed with Rocks, there are 5 of them lying in the form of a half Moon, not a mile from the shore, and between them and the Main is very good Riding, secure from any j wind. The Spaniards do report, that here live Fishermen, ! to fish for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification. -^ This is said to be a large Town, the best hereabouts; but is 14 leagues up in the Country. The 20th instant we entered within these Islands, pass- 272 VALDERAS, A PLEASANT VALLEY i in on the S. K. side, and Anchored h cwmi Ae I the Main fathom Wood, dean Suid. Hoc i ah Water : Mook and Line, a son of FdI ble of John Fernando, but wc saw no sign of h^'^^fr'\ bciidcs 3 or 4 old Hutts; therefore I do be&cvc Aa ckc Sptmah or Indian Fishermen come hither oolf at Lm, or MMBc Other such season, but that they 60 kk Swe here cooftantly. Xhe zist day Captain Ttnmley wcac svay, nth about 60 Men, to take an Indian Villigc; 7 cr t Icigxies from hence to the Westward more tovardt dK C^, and the next day we went to cruise otf* the Csfc, *We Captain Tawnlcy was tn meet ds. Tlic 14th day, af «c were cruising off the Cape, the four Canoi hna«- Tictitioned, which Capuin Townley's Bark left at the Cape. iHic fyfF to us. They, after the Bark left them, faat ■■> the West of the Cape, and rowed into the Valley ' ilderaa,' or perhaps Val d'lrts; for it tfgtnfiet the Valley ' Flags. This Valley lies tn the bottom of a pretty deep Bay, ■TM runs in between Cape Corrtentcs oa the & E. and die point of Poaiique on the N. W. wludi twopbccs are about 10 l^^es asunder. The Valley is ^loat 3 Icngnca wide ; tbcrt is a level candy Bay against the Sea, and good smooth hading. In the midst of the Bay is a fine River, wherc- iato Boats may enter; but it is brackoh at the lancr end of the dry Season, which is in February, March, and pan if April. I shall speak more of the Seasons in my Chapter rf Winds, in the Appendix. This Valley is bounded witlun Ltad, with a small green Hill, that makes a very gentle 3K into the Valley, and affords a very pleasant pro- k to Sea-ward. It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs, X with Groves of Trees 6t for any tiiet, beside Fruit- Bna in abundance, as Guava's, Oranges and Limes, which e mm wikl in such plenty, as if Nature had designed it yfor a Garden. The Savannahs are full of fai Bulls i Cows, and some Horses, but no House in sighL ■ V«ldn», > Tbe baj Uim I Cape ComenK* and CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. When our Canoas came to this pleasant Valley, they '^5 landed 37 Men, and marched into the Country seeking for some Houses. They had not gone past 3 mile before they were attackt by 150 Spaniards, Horse and Foot: There was a small thin Wood close by them, into which our Men retreated, to secure themselves from the fury of the Horse : Yet the Spaniards rode in among them, and attackt them very furiously, till the Spanish Captain, and 17 more, tumbled dead oflF their Horses: then the rest retreated, being many of them wounded. We lost four Mcn,^ and had two desperately wounded. In this action, the Foot, who were armed with Lances and Swords, and were the greatest number, never made any attack; the Horsemen had each a brace of Pistols, and some short Guns. If the Foot had come in, they had certainly destroyed all our Men. When the Skirmish was over, our Men placed the two wounded Men on Horses, and came to their Canoas. There they kilfd one of the Horses, and dress*d it, being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock, df which there was store. When they had eaten, and satisfied themselves, they returned aboard. The 25th day, being Christmas, we cruised in pretty near the Cape, and sent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fish, being desirous to have a Christmas Dinner. In the Afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Jew-fish, which feasted us all ; and the next day we sent ashore our Canoas again, and got 3 or 4 more. Captain Townley, who went from us at Chametly, came aboard the 28th day, and brought about 40 bushels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes, and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country. The Indians seeing him coming, set two Houses on fire that were full of Maiz, and run away ; yet he and his Men got in other Houses as much as they could bring down on their backs, which he brought aboard. We cruised oflF the Cape till the first day of January * One of them the Doctor's Mate. 274 THEIR DESIGNS ON THIS COAST I then made lowinls the Valley Valdcns, to himt L and before Night we Anchored la the bottom of ' 'f in 60 fatbom Water a mile ^ai the shore. Here ^d hunting till the 7th day, and Captain Swan and Town Icy went ashore every morning with about ) Men, and marched to a smaJI Hill ; where they re- maed with 50 or 60 Men to watch the Spaniards, who ipeved in great companies on other Hills not &r distant, ttdid never attempt any thtog against our Men. Here e kilTd and salted above 2 months Meat, besides what we : fresh ; and might have kill'd as much more, if we I been better stor'd with Salt. Our hopes of meeting e Philippine ship were now over ; for we did all conclude, at whik we were necessitated to hunt here for IVoviaofis^ E wa» past by to the Eastward, as indeed she was, as wc id understand afterw.-an.1s by Prisoners. So this design ^^iTd, through Captain Townicy's eagerness after the Lima hip. which he attempted in Acapuico Harbour, as 1 have For though wc took a little Flower hard b)-, yet : Guide which told us of that Ship, would have Mdactcd us where we tnight have had store of Beef and ' ' : but instead thereof, we lost both our time, and the nunity of providing our selves ; and so we were forced k be victualling, when wc should have been cnibing off e Corrientes, in expectation of the Manila Ship. Hitherto we had coasted along here with 2 diflcrent designs; the one was to get the Manila ^ip, which would have inrichcd us iKyund measure ; and this Captain Townlcy ns mou for. Sir Tho. Cavendish formerly took the Mutla Ship' off Cape St. Lucas in California, (where wc tim would have waited for her, had we been early enough 1 with Provisions, 10 have met her there) and threw ■och rich Goods over-board. The other design, which Ciptain Swan and our Crew were most for, was to search ' t»n the i4Jh of Noremhw 1587. Her lume was the Uratt .S/. Amm^ ■ h^ alMtd bet •mne teo loiu of -ih« rkhett mefchandiM* aad I oT TftAA. Uon; ihui {00 toot of tr>c salleoo'* frsktit waa vd IB the harbonr ot AgiuuU Scftura, where the prac «u S«r Tbomu aherwanU Iwnted ibe Crt>H M. Anma, aad va\bA rCMfcM,oabu*anc*>HMnetmndtke Cape of Good Hofw. ^75 3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. along the Coast for rich Towns, and Mines chiefly of Gold ^^^ and Silver, which we were assured were in this Country, and we hoped near the shore : not knowing (as we afterwards found) that it was in effect an Inland Country, its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coast, and having little or no commerce with it, its Trade being driven Eastward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had still some expecta- tion of Mines, and so resolved to steer on farther North- ward ; but Captain Townley, who had no other design in coming on this Coast, but to meet this Ship, resolved to return again towards the Coast of Peru. In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coast, we had with us a Captain,^ and 2 or 3 of his Men, of our friendly Indians of the Isthmus of Darien ; who having conducted over some parties of our Privateers, and expressing a desire to go along with us, were received, and kindly entertained aboard our Ships; and we were pleased in having, by this means, Guides ready provided, should we be for returning over Land, as several of us thought to do, rather than sail round about. But at this time, we of Captain Swan's Ship designing farther to the North West ; and Captain Townley going back, we committed these our Indian Friends to his care, to carry them home. So here we parted ; he to the Eastward, and we to the Westward, intending to search as far to the Westward as the Spaniards were settled. It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we sailed from this pleasant Valley. The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair. At 1 1 a Clock the Sea-Wind came at N. W. Before night we passed by Point Pontiquc*; this is the West point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas, and is distant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues. This point is in lat. 20 d. 50 m. North ; it is high, round, rocky and * Three Indian chiefs are mentioned by name as the allies of the Buccaneers. A'/V/j^ Golden Cafi^ who was probably too old and too great a king to come upon so long a cruise ; Don Andreas^ and Don Antonio, AH. three kings crossed the Isthmus with Sawkins in 1680. There were also the son and the nephew of King Golden Cap, who stayed with the colours, *' to harry the Spaniards," after King Golden Cap had returned home with Coxon. The Indian captain mentioned here was a Captain Lewis. * "Point Pontique," apparently Mita Point. A village "Pontoquc" is mentioned hereabouts in old Spanish maps. 276 ■ OTHER ISLES OF CHAMETLY ^■rren. At a dtsluicc it appears like an Island. A league a to the West of this point are two small barren Islands,' ■' called the Islands of Pontique. There are several high, tharp, white Rocks, ihac lie scattering about them : We passd between these rocky Islands on the left, and the Maui On the right, for there is no danger. The Sea-Coast beyond this point runs Northward for about i8 leagues, nuking many ragged points, with small sandy Bays between them. The Land by the Sea-side is low and pretty woody ; but in the Country, full of high, sharp, barren, rugged, unpleasant Hills. ■|hc 14th day wc had sight of a small white Rock,* which appears very much like a ship under sail. This Rock is in lat. 2i d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main. There b a good Channel between it and the Main, where you will hive 12 or 14 fathom Water near the Island ; but running ncairr the Main, you will have gradual soundings, till you cinae in with the shore. At night we Anchored in 6 fathom W«cr, near a league from the Main, in good oazy ground. Wc caught a great many Cat-iish here, and ai several places u) this Cout, both before and after this. From this Itland the Land runs more Northerly, mak- ing a fair sandy Bay ; but the Sea falls in with such vio- icacc on the shore, that there is no landing, but very good .Anchoring on all the Coast, and gradual Soundings. About a Lc^ue off shore, you will have 6 fathom, and 4 mile off there you will have 7 fathom Water. Wc came to an .\nchor every evening ; and in the mornings we sailed off with the Land-wind, which we found at N. E. and the Sca- iwtc2£» at N. W. The 20th day we Anchored about 3 miles on the East ade 0^ the Islands Chametly,' different from those nf that before -mentioned ; for these arc 6 small Islands, in 23 d. 11 m. a little to the South of the Troplck of notr, and about 3 leagues from the Main, where a Salt ; hacfa ill out-let into the Sea. These Isles are of an nt bcigbth : Some of them have a few shrubby Tte HariMB Iihadt. ' Perhaps Isabel Island. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. bushes ; the rest are bare of any sort of Wood. They are '^^ rocky round by the Sea ; only one or two of them have sandy Bays on the North side. There is a sort of Fruit growing on these Islands called Penguins ; ^ and 'tis all the fruit they have. The Penguin Fruit is of two sorts, the yellow and the red. The yellow Penguin grows on a green stem, as big as a Mans Arm, above a foot high from the ground : The leaves of this stalk are half a foot long, and an inch broad ; the edges full of sharp prickles. The Fruit grows at the head of the stalk, in 2 or 3 great clusters, 16 or 20 in a^ cluster. The Fruit is as big as a Pullets Egg, of a round i form, and in colour yellow. It has a thick skin or lind^ r and the inside is full of small black seeds, mixt among the' Fruit. It is a sharp pleasant Fruit. The red Penram nr;] of the bigness and colour of a small dry Onion, and is H shape much like a Nine-pin ; for it grows not on a stiHl^ or stem, as the other, but one end on the ground, the othef^ standing upright. Sixty or seventy grow thus together at close as they can stand one by another, and all nt>m the same Root, or cluster of Roots. These Penguins are en* compassM or fenced with long leaves, about a foot and a half, or two foot long, and prickly like the former; and the Fruit too is much alike. They are both wholsomc^ and never offend the stomach ; but those that eat maofi will find a heat or tickling in their Fundament. They grow so plentifully in the Bay of Gimpeachy, that there il: no passing for their high prickly leaves. There are some Guanoes on these Islands, but no odier sort of Land Animal. The Bays about the Islands are somB--] times visited with Seal ; and this was the first place wheie.j I had seen any of these Animals, on the North side of thi^ Equator, in these Seas. For the Fish on this sandy Coast fie most in the Lagunes or Salt-lakes, and Mouths of Rivets; but the Seals come not so much there, as I judge : For thil being no rocky Coast, where Fish resort most, there seeni to be but little Food for the Seals, unless they will vcntwt upon Cat-fish. ' Or pinguin, the wild Anana. 278 PEARL-FISHERY AT CALIFORNIA Ctptaio S^ran ircnt swiy fmn bence vss too M^ a Cinaas, to the Narthwxrd, to aecfc tar Ac Ei^ ecao,' poaubly the aauoe wkk Ac B&mct td ff^sfa^ idi aotoe Maps lay dovo ki the ftsi r MC e or U^tm. tf Ihcia. Tbb River hah in dnA 14 d. ?C. faL Ve Kinformed. that tbcfc is 1 (arn^SpimATmmm At Est »dc of it, with &viaaah> ■!»■* k, fid flf ' CcHn ; and that the InhiKnaw of tks Tosa fsa baa to the tstand Ci£lbnm, vkoc tkcf fiA ^ 1 ■K bEcn told nncc hf a Sp atm id tfac ad hr fad ' e bland Califomia, dm thae se ^tm fin en there, and tbat the SmJtk laifiM mf the Pcarl-fisbeiy, an mort^ r C^ttOBs were afatenc 3 or 4 dsf^ aad ■■! Atj ktbore 30 Icagoes but foDBd so finer; ihai iheSeawas low. lod all aadf Bn ; hm^Ai B there was no harling. llMf aa as a d the tat. 13 d. 30 m. amam^ afaog A«c i nrds Culbcin ; to wc lUuiau i apaa tm ik '» «u the fu^hest ihu I v» to the K. ^ 4a Sa or 7 leagues N. N. W. fnia ihc l^» ^ IS is t small narrow unrm t H ma a Life^ a im 11 LagiKs EasttHf. pvaOcl «iA Ae Mr »aU low MMgrave bfanda. ~ fce is in lat. aboot >} d. 30 a. fc is oA^ hf laiwds Rio de &1 : ' for it ■ a S* IjAb. T^ ''tar enough foe Boats «ni Caaoa tn cnMK, ^ri lai lAag alter yoa are in On the wcK aie «f i^ ^a t Hoose, and so EsftntJon, or fatm at Imk ~ md bdcd. m/c went into the Lake 1 e. fouad 7 or I Bushels «^ >Ui : • *nj by tht Sfmaands, ja. ihoK mr Mtm wait ^■o- of the Esraitnna, and kvagkc !■■ aiaai^ ^ id. that the Beefs were diim a pai ^ ■» < M^tamt SOT*]!' W ^-— ^ -- "■ ^ - , J CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Country, for fear we should kill them. While we lay i^^ here, Captain Swan went into tlus Lake agiun^ and landed 1 50 Men on the N. E. side, and marched into the Country ! About a mile from the landing-place, as they were entring a dry Salina, or Salt-pond, they fired at two Indians that ^ cross'd the way before them ; one of them being wounded . in the Thigh, fell down, and being examined, he tdd our ^ Men, that there was an Indian Town 4 or 5 leagues off, and ] that the way which they were gcnng would bring thott/ thither. While they were in Discourse with the Indiia' they were attacked by 100 Spanish Horsemen, who cuk' with a design to scare them back, but wanted both Amt; and Hearts to do it. Our Men past on from hence, and in their way marchfld: through a Savannah of long dry Grass. This the Spaniafdl: set on fire, thinking to burn them, but that did not our Men from marching forward, though it did them a little. They rambled for want of Guides all day, and part of the next, before they came to the T the Indian spoke of. There they found a company Spaniards and Indians, who made head against them, were driven out of the Town after a short IXsputfc Here our Surgeon and one man more were wounded tritfc Arrows, but none of the rest were hurt. When they came into the Town they found two or three Indians wounded^ who told them that the Name of the Town was Massadta; that there were a few Spaniards living in it, and the fot: were Indians ; that 5 leagues from this Town there iroe; two rich Gold mines, where the Spaniards of Compostallii' which is the chiefest Town in these parts, kept many Shftt and Indians at Work for Gold. Here our Men laythiC night, and the next morning packt up all the Muz thit they could find, and brought it on their backs to the C$aa» and came aboard. We lay here till the 2d of February, and then CtpttfR Swan went away with about 80 Men to the River Rosario;* 1 Compostela, in the province of Tepic, some 180 miles to the SSK.rf"^ Mazatlan. * At Chametia, Rosario stands in a fair valley some miles from tfae Ml* 280 RIVER AND TOWN OF ROSARIO irhere they landed, and marched to an Indian Town of the ame Name. They found it about 9 mile from the Sea; ' the way to it fair and even. This was a fine little Town, of about 60 or 70 Houses, with a fair Church ; and it was icfly inhabited with Indians, they took Prisoners there, which told them. That the Kiver Rosario is rich in Gold, ind that the Mines arc not above 2 leagues from the Town. aptain Swan did not think it convenient to go to the twines, but made haste aboard with the Maiz which he took here, to the quantity of about 80 or 90 Bushels ; and which > us, in the scarcity we were in of Provisions, was at that ime more valuable than all the Gold in the World ; and lad he gone to the Mines, the Spaniards would probably avc destroyed ihe Corn 'before his return. The 3d of •ebruary, we went with our Ships also towards the River losario, and Anchored the next day against the Rivers nouth, 7 fathom, good oazy ground, a league from the bore. This River is in lat. 22 d. 51 m. N. When you irc at an Anchor against this River, you will sec a round " , like a Sugar-loaf, a little way within Land, right over he River, and bearing N. E. by N. To the Westward of hat Hill there is another pretty long Hill, called by the ■paniards Caput Cavalli, or the Horse's head. The 7th day Captain Swan came aboard with the Maiz vhich he got. This was but a small quantity for so many Wen as we were, especially considering the place we were ti, being strangers, and having no Pilots to direct or guide us nto any River ; and we being without all son of Provision, lUt what we were forced to get in this manner from shore. And though our Pilot-Book directed us well nough to find the Rivers, yet for want of Guides to carry IS to the Settlements, we were forced to search 2 or 3 days lefore we could find a place to land : for, as I said before, sides the Seas being too rough for landing in many places, hey have neither Boat, Bark, nor Canoa, that we could fcT see or hear of: and therefore as there are no such iiding places in these Rivers, as there are in the North , so when we were landed, we did not know which ray to go to any Town, except we accidentally met with a 281 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. path. Indeed, the Spaniards and Indians, whom we had >^6 aboard, knew the Names of several Rivers and Towns near them, and knew the Towns when they saw them ; but they knew not the way to go to them from the Sea. The 8th day. Captain Swan sent about 40 Men to seek for the River Oleta, which is to the Eastward of the River Rosario. The next day we followed after with the Ships, having the Wind at W. N. W. and fair weather. In the Afternoon our Canoas came again to us, for they could not find the River Oleta ; ^ therefore we designed next for the River St. Jago ^ to the Eastward still. The 1 1 th day in the evening, we Anchored against the mouth of the River, in 7 fathom Water, good soft oazy ground, and about two mile from the shore. There was a high white Rock with- out us, called Maxentelbo. This Rock at a distance, appears like a Ship under sail ; it bore from us W. N. W. distant about 3 leagues. The Hill 2^1isco bore S. E. which is a very high Hill in the Country, with a Saddle or bending on the top. The River St. Jago is in lat. 22 d. 15 m. It is one of the principal Rivers on this Coast; there is 10 foot Water on the Bar at low Water, but how much it flows here I know not. The mouth of this River is near half a mile broad, and very smooth entring. Within the mouth it is broader, for there are three or four Rivers more meet there, and issue all out together, is fresh Water, is brackish a great way up ; yet there, the Water to be had, by digging or making Wells in the sandy Bay, two or three foot deep, just at the mouth of the River. The nth day Captain Swan sent 70 Men in four Canoas into this River, to seek a Town ; for although we had no intelligence of any, yet the Country appearing very promising, we did not question but they would find Inhabi- tants before they returned. They spent two days in rowing up and down the Creeks and Rivers ; at last they came to a large Field of Maiz, which was almost ripe : they immedi- ately fell to gathering as fast as they could, and intended to lade the Canoas ; but seeing an Indian that was set to * Rio Canas, or Rio San Pedro (?). 2 The Rio Grande de Santiago. 282 \ SANTA PECAQUE vuch the Com, they quitted that troublesome and tedious work, and sctz'd him, and brought him aboard, in hopes by "^^^ his information, to have some more easic and expedite way of 3 supply, by 6nding Corn ready cut and dried. He ^h beii^ examined, said, ihat there was a Town called Santa ^M Pecaque, four leagues from the place where he was taken ; ^H aad di«t if we designed to go thither, he would undertake ^* to be our Guide. Captain Swan immediately ordered his Men to nuke ready, and the same evening went away with 8 Cinoas and 140 Men, taking the Indian for their Guide. He rowed about five leagues up the River, and landed the next rooming. The River at this place was not above Fbcal-«bot wide, and the Banks pretty high on each side, ^m mad the Land plain and even. He left 23 Men to guard ^M the Caaoas, and marcht with the rest to the Town. He ^M out from the CanfJas at 6 a clock in the morning, and veach'd the Town by 10. The way through which he faaed was very plain, pan of it Wood-land, part Savannahs. The Savannahs were full of Horses, Bulls and Cows. The Spaatards seeing him coming run all away ; so he entered ' the Town without the least opposition. This Town of Santa Pecaque stands on a Plain, in a Savannth, by the side of a Wood, with many Fruit Trees ahoat h. It is but a small Town, but very regular, after the Spanish mode, with a Parade in the midst. The Houses fronting the Parable had all Balconies: there were a Churches; ime against the Parade, the other at the end of (he Town. It is inhabited most with Spaniards. Their chiefcst occupation is Husbandry. There are also some earners, who arc imploycd by the Merchants of Compos- tclla, to Trade for them to and from the Mines. Compoatella is a rich Town, about 21 leagues from oe. It is the chicfcst in all this part of the Kingdom, aad is reported to have 70 white Kamilics; which is a pcai matter in these parts; for it may be, that such a Town hath not less than 500 Families of copper-coloured Peopk, bendes the white. The Silver Mines are about 5 or 6 !«•■£'■« from Santa Pecaque ; where, as we were lold. Inhabitants of Compostella had some hundreds of SUvi 283 — CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. at Work. The Silver here, and all over the Kingdom of 1686 Mexico, is said to be finer and richer in proportion than that of Potosi or Peru, tho' the Oar be not so abundant ; and the Carriers of this Town of Santa Pecaque, carry the Oar to Compostella, where it is refined. These Carriers, or Sutlers, also furnish the Slaves at the Mines with Maiz, whereof here was great plenty now in the Town designed for that use : Here was also Sugar, Salt, and Salt-fish. Captain Swan's only business at Santa Pecaque was to get Provision; therefore he ordered his Men to divide themselves into two parts, and by turns carry down the Provision to the Canoas ; one half remaining in the Town to secure what they had taken, while the other half were going and coming. In the Afternoon they caught some Horses, and the next morning, being the 17th day, 57 Men, and some Horses, went laden with Maiz to the Canoas. They found them, and the Men left to guard them, in good order ; though the Spaniards had given them a small diversion, and wounded one Man : but our Men of the Canoas landed, and drove them away. These that came loaded to the Canoas left 7 Men more there, so that now they were 30 Men to guard the Canoas. At night the other returned; and the i8th day in the morning, that half which staid the day before at the Town, took their turn of going with every Man his burthen, and 24 Horses laden. Before they returned, Captain Swan, and his other Men at the Town, caught a Prisoner, who said, that there were near a thousand Men of all colours, Spaniards and Indians, Negroes and Mulatto's, in arms, at a place called St. Jago,^ but 3 leagues oflT, the chief Town on this River ; that the Spaniards were armed with Guns and Pistols, and the copper-coloured with Swords and Lances. Captain Swan, fearing the ill consequence " of separating his small company, was resolved the next day to march away with ^ Santiago, a little further up the river. 2 Original MS. "Captain Swan had been warned by his Astrologer of the great danger they were in, whose advice Captain Swan allway took. . . . Besides . . . many foreboded their misfortune and . . . heard as they lay downe in the Church in the night, grievous grownings which hindered them from sleeping." 284 FIFTY OF THEIR MEX tbc whole Party; tad tfaoAve he • cstch IS auoy Hoses » they cadi. ilK ifccf ■ the more Prorisoo wA tb^. AcBatAfjIy^th bong the 19th diy of F i A i if iCM. G^ oiled out hb Men b ftimrt co he goae; hit ifcev- * to go, and said, that thcj wtnU aoc ksvc the Toi all thie Provisoti wn ia tk Cbmbs: T WhJijh. kc mm forced to yield to them, and wSettd ha}£ tke ooafHuy to go as before: TbcT had aov J4. H leuues, bearing East South East, and they are distant mi Cape Corricntes 20 leagues, bearing upon the same points 01 the Compass with Cape Si. Lucas.' They stretch N- W. and S. E. about 14 leagues. There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them : The wcstermost of them is the biggest Island of the three; and they are all three of an indifferent heighth. The Soil is stony and dry, the Land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood, very thick and troublesome to pass through. In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars, though tpeaktng of the places where I have found Cedars, Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place. The Spaniards make mention of them in other places : but I speak of those which I have seen. All round by the Sea-side it is sandy ; and there is produced a green prickly Plant, whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf, and the root like the root of a Sempervive, but much larger. This root being bak'd in an Oven is good to eat : and the Indians on California, as I haTc been informed, have great part of their subsistence from these Roots. We made an Oven in a sandy Bank, tad b«ked of these Roots, and I eat of them : but none of 35 greatly cared for them. They taste exactly like the kixrt* of our English Burdock boil'd, of which I have - i:cn. Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons {a iirgc . rTt of Rat) and Indian Conies, and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtlc-Doves, The Sea is also pretty well Kored with Fish, and Turtle or Tortoise, and Seal. This '» the iecond place on this Coast where I did see any Seal : inJ this place helps to conlirm what I have observed, that ■'cy are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish, ipGun Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince -r-jftte's Island, The 8th day we run nearer the Island, and anchored in ' fathom, and moored Head and Stern, and unri^g'd both -lip and Bark, in order to careen. Here Capt. Swan ' They are nllm U VOL. 1, tbv NE. oftlic tiniiKht line rrom point to point 289 T k CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. proposed^ to go into the East-Indies. Many were well '^^ pleased with the Voyage; but some thought, such was their Ignorance, that he would carry them out of the World ; for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found ; but at last he gained their Consents. At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal ; but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day ; on which we fed all the time that wc lay here, and saved our Maiz for our Voyage. Here also we measured all our Maiz, and found we had about 80 Bushels. This we divided into 3 parts ; one for the Bark, and two for the Ship; our Men were divided also, 100 Men aboard the Ship, and 50 aboard the Bark, besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each. I had been a long time sick of a Dropsie, a Distemper, whereof, as I said before, many of our Men died ; so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand : I indured it near half an hour, and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand, and I do believe it did me much good, for I grew well soon after. We staid here till the 26th day, and then both Vessels being clean, we sailed to the Valley of Balderas * to water, for we could not do it here now. In the wet season indeed here is Water enough, for the Brooks then run down plentifully ; but now, though there was Water, yet it was bad filling, it being a great way to fetch it from the holes where it lodged. The 28th day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in the Valley of Balderas, right against the River, where we watered before ; but this River was brackish now in the dry season ; and therefore we went 2 or 3 leagues nearer Cape Corrientes, and anchored by a small round Island, not half a mile from the shore. The Island * Original MS. " I had still a mind to make further discoveryes and my advice and Counsel 1 was ever accepted by the Comp^ as much as any one Mans, and indeed it was ever a designe betweene Captain Swan and myselfe to promote it." 2 Now Banderas. There are several islands in the bay; the Marieta group, and a rather larger single island known as Corvetena. 290 OF THE COMMERCE OF MEXICO leagues to the Northward of the Cape; and the : where we filled our Water is just within the Island, ' the Main. Here our Strikers struck 9 or lo Jew ; some we did cat, and the rest wc salted : and the 29th r wc fiU'd 32 Tuns of ver>- good Water. Having thus provided our selves, we had nothing more > do. but to put in execution our intended Expedition to : East-Indies, in hopes of some better success there, than • had met with on this little frequented Coast. We came full of expectations ; for besides the richness of the and the probability of finding some Sea-Ports I visiting, wc perswaded our selves that there must " c Shipping and Trade here, and that Acapulco and a Cruz ' were to the Kingdom of Mexico, what 1 and Portobcl are to that of Peru, viz. Marts for fing on a constant Commerce between the South and '1 Sas, as indeeil they are. But whereas we expected . Commerce should be managed by Sea, we found low tctvcs mistaken ; that of Mexico being almost wholly a iLud-trade, and managed more by Mtdes than by Ships: l&ihat inMcad of pront wc met with little on this Coast, 1 ktsnlcs fatigues, hardships and losses, and so were the more Itauly induced to try what better fortune we might have in |!hc East-Indies. But to do right to Captain Swan, he had n to be as a Privateer in the East-Indies ; but, bath often assured me with his own mouth, he re- 1 to take the first opportunity of returning to Eng- : So that he feigned a compliance with some of his , who were bent upon going to cruize at Manila, that nnght have leisure 10 take sonic favourable opportunity f tpntting the Privateer Trade. ■ The port of tlie galleon n Citntpcai-lijr ItMy. CHAP. X Their Departure from Cape Corrientes for the Ladrone Islands^ and the East-Indies. Their Course thither^ and Accidents by the way : with a Table of each days Run^ &c. Of the different accounts of the breadth of these Seas, Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands. The Coco- Nut Treey Fruity &c. The Toddiy or A rack that distils from it ; with other Uses that are made of it. Coire Cables. The Ume^ or Crab Limon. The Bread-fruit. The Native Indians of Guam. Their Proe^s^ a remarkable sort of Boats : and of those used in the East-Indies, The State of Guam : and the Provisions with which they were furnish'* d there. AN. "W HAVE given an Account in the last Chapter of the 1686 I Resolutions we took of going over to the East-Indies. But having more calmly considered on the length of our Voyage, from hence to Guam/ one of the Ladrone Islands, which is the first place that we could touch at, and there also being not certain to find Provisions, most of our Men were almost daunted at the thoughts of it ; for we had not 60 days Provision, at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each Man, and no other Provision, except 3 Meals of salted Jew-fish ; and we had a great many Rats aboard, which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beside, the great distance between Cape Corrientes and Guam : which is variously set down. The Spaniards, who have the greatest reason to know best, make it to be between 2300 and 2400 Leagues ; our Books also reckon it differently, between 90 and 100 degrees, which all comes short indeed of 2000 Leagues,* but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us, considering our scanty Provisions. Captain Swan, to encourage his Men ^ Guahan, or Guam, in the Ladrone Islands. ^ The Spanish estimate is fairly accurate. 292 THE TEDIOUSNESS OF THIS VOYAGE to go with him, perswaded them that the English Books an, did give the best account of ihc distance ; his Reasons were '** nuny, although but weak. He urged among the rest, that Sir Thonus Gindish ' and Sir Francis Drake, did run it in less _ than 50 Oiys, and that he did not question but that our J Ships were better sailers, than those which were built in I that Age, and that he did not doubt to get there in little ' more than 40 Days : This being the best time in the Year for breezes, which undoubtedly is the reason that the Spaniards set out from Acapulco about this time ; and that lithough they arc 60 Days in their Voyage, it is because they arc great Ships, deep laden, and very heavy ■ulcn ; besides, they wanting nothing, arc in no great Ittste in their way, but sail with a great deal of their usual caution.' And when they come near the Island Guam, they lie by in the Night for a Week,' before they make Land. In frudencc wc al«i,iin(lorienhtavmK-i»foTthc n>Kh[. ' To wauh ftir fire siEiult frotn the ittioic. One large blnte suddenly WMkcra^ followed bjr four other bkie*. was the sipul that enemies were OMi( near Cuain. Tlw Ga » 4 .? A TABLE OF EACH DAYS RUN y of Panama) to Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, hath an. En in the gross. But for the satisfaction of those who '"" ly think it serviceable to the fixing the Longitudes of ac Pans, or to any other Use in Geography or Naviga- B, I hare here subjoyned a particular Table of every days a, which was as follows. a. Cmm. Ok.] S. W. Lai. jr,»A. SWjdW. .,|„ 10 10 II 1 W N w I !iW ( W [ loi 1 6S 81 100 k. ,9 R. 17 ilNW;NNW ■. 1 SW I W , .,1 , ,8 IS NbW 3 W by S loj 19 Ob. 17 6 N W 11 S ' I40 19 "W 10 S ' ifio s* 136 1 Ob. 16 Tjo 1 QbTtY 106 ou^ry" 86 Ob. I's H R. .4" 93 06. 14 IJ7 Ob ., 11; Ob. 14 169 K. 14 ^9 X ,4 37 NiNNK f 43 N 6 7 8 9 W 10 S W . S 108 1 18 94 6 15« 11 15 1 N E i ' N E : H N U S7 EN E SI E NE ■ O W 5 S 39 E N E 19 i E N E 1 S "E N E II W 5 S ■W i s 114 10 '70 '4 170 14 •f 1 , E N E •4 w™, sr 180 If 174 18 181 1 19 17; K. ., TVr-RT-Ti 46 E N E ■ f W 6 S .8 U N E tUd, 1* 17 W 6 !i 180 114 R. „ 9 i: N E mln, W 6 !> il«il> R. 11 47 1 E iJ ETfiii. The Summ of the Westings hitherto is . . 2283 Which make Dcg. of Longitude ■ 39 <^- S- '"■ From hence my Course is most West, sometimes Southerly, ictimes Northerly. i^,/-- Dili. N.otS. EbjN^ "ETJ E EbjN EbfN lio I'i 171 180 R. 11:47 -;^Rr-r.r47" 771' R. .1,47 '.. .w 180 R. 11:47 '5 OK W 4 N 170 "'"«»Sb.;.";n 1^ r: w: _ut. 146 R. is: $8 Eb,N CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES April AN. 1686 M. Day 26 ' 28 ' 30 I 2 ■ ' 3 5 7 . 8 1 II 12 i.3_ 15 16 "17 '9 i 20 21 Course. Dist. N.or. S w. Lot. mnds. W 146 185 146 R. 12 = 58 : 7 ' 7 EbyN W 3 N gU 184 Oh. 13 Ob.13 EbyN W 140 140 167 171 173 EbyN w 167 172 R. 13 Ob. 13 ■ 7 : 12 EbyN W 2 N 5 E W ! 172 i Ob. 13 R. 13 = : 12 : 12 : 12 E N E W i 196 ! 196 160 152 179 171 160 E by N w 160 154 i Ob. 13: E by N W ! R. 13 = ; 12 E N E R. W. Ob. W. 2 S . »53 180 ssj R. 13: Ob. 13: . 12 7 E N E W 2 N 7U Ob. 13: : 14 EN E W 2 N . 172 ' 9 N ; 160 149 i 7 S i 134; 9S ! Ob.13: : 22 22 6 E N E W Ob. 13.: Ob. 13: E N E w 3 s : 148 E by N w 4 s : '33 Ob. 13: E N E w 128 112 : 128 III 128 129 128 117 R. 13: Ob. 12 : 6 '57 ENE i W 5 s 9 E N E w 128 R. 12: R. 12: 57 57 ENE w 129 ENE w 1 128 1 R. 12: 57 ENE ' W 4 N ' 118 : 8 N ! 114 II s 109 1 5 S ] 120 01 137 i ! i34i 1 13 «N ' Ob. 13: 5 ENE W 6 S 1 1 13 ! 108 , 120 1 137 130 10' Ob. 12: 54 E N E W 3 S W I Ob. 12: R. 12: R. 12: R. 12: 49 E N E 49 ': E N E " w W~ i 49 ; 50. ENE E E 'N"E " N W 7 W R. 12: 59 Summ of all the Westings Making Deg. of Longitude in all 7323 125 d. II m. Now the Island Guam bore N. N. E. 8 leagues dist. this gives 22 m. to my Lat. and takes 9 from my Meridian dist. so that the Island is in Lat. 13 : 21 ; and the Merid. dist. from Corrientes 7302 miles; which, reduced into degrees, makes 125 d. 11 m. The Table consists of 7 Columns. The first is of the days of the month. The 2d Column contains each days course, or the point of the Compass we ran upon. The 298 THE TABLE EXPLAINED I gives the dtsuncc or length of such course in Italian or letrical miles, (at the rate of 60 to a degree) or the ' 5 the Ship makes every day ; and is reckoned always I noon to noun. But because the Course is not always Rude upon the same Rhumb in a direct line, therefore the 4lh and 5th Columns show how many miles we ran to the South every day, and how many to the West ; which last was our main run in this Voyage. By the 17th of April wc were got pretty near into the latitude of Guam, and our Course then lying along that parallel, our Northing asd Southing consequently were but little, according as the Ship dcviatra from its direct course ; and such deviation is tbenceforward expresi by N. or S. in the 5th Column, and the 9iipc keeping straight on the West Rhumb, by o, that n to ay, by no Northing or Southing. The 6th Column •hem the lit. we were in every day, where R. signifies the dead Reckoning, by the running of the Logs, and Ob. thews the lat. by observation.' The 7th Column shews the Wind and Weather. To these I would have added an 8th Column, to shew (he Variation of the Needle ; but as it was very small in rhia course, so neither did we make any observation of it, iSore oQce, after we were set out from the Mexican Coast. At our depanure from Cape Corrientes, we found It to be ♦ d. 38 m. Easterly; and the observation wc made of it afterwards, when wc had gone about a third of the Voyage, thcwcd it to be so near the same, to be decreasing : Neither did wc ohserve it at Guam, for Captain Swan who had the Insmimcnts in his Cabin, did not seem much to regard it : Tct I am inclined 10 think that at Guam, the Variation might be cither none at all, or even increasing to the Wenward. To conclude. May 20th at noon (when we begin to call it ii«) we were in lat. 11 d. 50 m. N. by R. having nm Bnce the noon before 134 mtlcs directly West. We oandnued the same Course till two that afternoon, for wtudi I allow 10 miles more West still, and then, finding L I, of the moon, or of a fixed >ur. 299 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the [>arallel we ran upon to be too much Southerly, we *^^ clapt on a Wind and sailed directly North, till 5 in the afternoon, having in that time run 8 mile, and increased our latitude so many minutes, making it 12 d. 58 m. We then saw the Island Guam bearing N. N. E. distant from us about 8 leagues, which gives the latitude of the Island 13 d. 20 m. And according to the account foregoing, its longitude is 125 d. 11 m. West from the Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico, allowing 58 and 59 Italian miles to a degree in these latitudes, at the common rate of 60 miles to a degree of the Equator, as before computed. As a Corollary from hence it will follow, that upon a supposal of the truth of the general allowance. Seamen make of 60 Italian miles to an Equinoctial degree, that the South Sea must be of a greater breadth by 25 degrees, than it's commonly reckoned by Hydrographers, who make it only about 100, more or less. For since we found (as I shall have occasion to say) the distance from Guam to the Eastern parts of Asia, to be much the same with the common reckoning ; it follows by way of necessary conse- quence from hence, that the 25 degrees of longitude, or thereabouts, which are under-reckoned in the distance be- tween America and the East-Indies Westward, are over- reckoned in the breadth of Asia and Africk, the Atlantick Sea, or the American Continent, or all together ; and so that Tract of the Terraqueous Globe, must be so much shortned. And for a further confirmation of the fact, I shall add, that as to the ^thiopick or Indian Sea, its breadth must be considerably less than 'tis generally calcu- lated to be ; if it be true what I have heard over and over, from several able Seamen, whom I have conversed with in these parts, that Ships sailing from the Cape of Good Hope to New Holland, (as many Ships bound to Java, or there- abouts, keep that latitude) find themselves there, (and sometimes to their cost) running aground when they have thought themselves to be a great way oflF; and 'tis from hence possibly, that the Dutch call that part of this Coast the Land of Indraught, (as if it magnetically drew Ships too fast to it) and give cautions to avoid it : But I rather 300 OF THE MILES IN A DEGREE tinnk, 'tis the i t c^ the LUMJ. sBjr Whiripool, As to the breadth ot the '*" : nairocss or the like, thit surprizex them AtUntick Sea, I am from good huds assured, that it is ovcr-Rckoned by six, scvco. c^ht, or ten degrees; fcv besda the concurrent Accouats of several expericaced Men. who have confirmed the same to me ■ Mr. Canby particnlarljr, who hath sailed as a Mate in a great many Voyaga, from Cape Lopez, on the Coast of Guinea, to Buittdoes, and is much cstcem'd as a very senublc Man, hath often told me, that he coastantly found the distance to be between 60 and 62 degrees; whereas 'tis taid down in 6S. 69, 70, and 72 degrees, in the common draughts. As to the suppOMtjon it sell*, which our Seamen make, in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree, I am not ignorant bow much thi» hath been canvased of late years especially, and that the prevailing opinion hath been that about 70, or upwards, should be allowed. But till I can see some better grounds for the exactness of those trials, that have been nude on Lind by Mr, Norwood ' and others, con- lidering the inequality of the Earths surface, as well as the t'jbliquity of the way ; in their allowing for which, I am somewhat doubtful of their mca<>urcs. Upon the whole matter, 1 cannot but adhere to the general Sea-calculation, confirmed as to the main by daily experience, till some more certain estimate shall be made, than those hitherto ttemptcd. For we find our selves, when wc sail North or viuth. 10 be brought to our intended place, in a time gTTcable enough with what we expect upon the usual apposition, making ail reasonable allowance, for the little inxvoidablc deviations East or West : and there seems no cuon why the same estimate should not serve us in crosa- ie the Meridians, which we find so true in Sailing under As to this course of ours to Guam particularly, we : rather increase than shorten our estimate uf the h of it, considering that the Easterly Wind and ' Itr. Nwrvtml. Richard tianmod{tigo-itfJi), n (urvryor anil iiiailw -^Aiicisa of WMne cdebrity. His "iiiah were rcmarlublc, but noi very CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Current being so strong, and bearing therefore our Log ^ 1686 2fter us, as is usual in such cases ; should we therefore, in casting up the run of the Ljog^ make allowance for so much space as the Log it self drove after us (which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100, in so brisk a gale as this was) we must have reckoned more than 125 degrees; but in this Voyage we made no such allowance : (though it be usual to do it) so that how much soever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts, yet is it of the shortest, according to our experiment and calculation. But to proceed with our Voyage : The Island Guam or Guabon, (as the Native Indians pronounce it) is one of the Ladrone Islands, belongs to the Spaniards,^ who have a small Fort with fix Guns in it, with a Governour, and 20 or 30 Soldiers. They keep it for the relief and refresh- ment of their Philippine Ships, that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila, but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again. The Spaniards of late have named Guam, the Island Maria ; it is about 12 leagues long, and 4 broad, lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land. The 2 1 St day of May, 1686, at 11 a Clock in the Evening, we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam, on the West side ; a Mile from the shore. At a distance it appears flat and even, but coming near it you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much the highest, is fenced with steep Rocks, that oppose the Violence of the Sea, which continually rage against it, being driven with the constant Trade- wind, and on that side there is no Anchoring. The West side is pretty low, and full of small sandy Bays, divided with as many rocky Points. The Soil of the Island is reddish, dry and in- different fruitful. The Fruits are chiefly Rice, Pinc- Apples, Water-melons, Musk-melons, Oranges and Limes, Coco-nuts, and a sort of PVuit called by us Bread-fruit.' * The wooden logship by which seamen estimate the speed of their vessels. It has been superseded, to some extent, by the patent log, which registers the total run. The wooden logship provides only an approximate estimate of the speed of the ship at the moment the log is hove. '^ It is now American. ^ Artocarptis incisa, 302 THE COCO-NUT ■ The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea, on the Western asi. tide in great Groves, 3 or 4 Miles in length, and a Mile or '^** two broad. This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree, itid at a distance they are not to be known each from •Jthcr, only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches; but the Cabhagc-irec generally is much higher, tho' the Coco- nuT Trees in some places are very high. h The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree, among ■ the Branches and in Clusters, 10 or 12 in a Cluster. The V Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a Man's Arm, atKi 01 long, running small towards the end. It is of a yellow Colour, full of Knots, and very lough. The Nut ts generally bigger than a Man's Head. The outer Rind m a near two Inches thick, before you come to the Shell ; the ■ Shell it self is black, thick, and very hard. The Kernel in H foroc Nuts ii near an Inch thick, sticking to the inside of H the Shell clear round, leaving a hollow in the middle of it, ■ which contains about a Pint, more or less, according to the I h^ness of the Nut, for some are much bigger than others. I This Cavity is full of sweet, delicate, wholcsom and I retresfair^ Water, While the Nut is growing, all the in- M ode » full of this Water, without any Kernel at all ; but u the Nut grows towards its Maturity, the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell, and ii joft like Cream ; and as the Nut ripens, it increascth in ~i:b«tancc and becomes hard. The ripe Kernel is sweet rnough, but very hard to digest, therefore seldom eaten, ^nJoi by Strangers, who know not the effects of it; but while it b young and soft like Fap, some Men will eat it, ^cnping it out with a Spoon, after they have drunk the (Water that was within it. I like the Water best when the knt is almost ripe, for It is then sweetest and briskest. ' When theae Nuts are ripe and gathered, the outside Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour; so that one would :hmk that they were dead and dry; yet they will sprout •ut like Onions, after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 ur 4 Months, or thrown about in a House or Ship, and >f planted afterward in the lurth, they wilt grow up to a Free. Before they thus sprout out, thcrv is a small spungy 303 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. round knob grows in the inside, which we call an Apple. 1686 This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger, but increaseth daily, sucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut, and then it begins to sprout forth. By this time the Nut that was hard, begins to grow oily and soft, thereby giving passage to the Sprout that springs from the Apple, which Nature hath so contrived, that it points to the hole in the Shell, (of which there are three, till it grows ripe, just where it's fastened by its stalk to the Tree ; but one of these holes remains open, even when it is ripe) through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches. You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half, or two foot high before you plant them, for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own Substance. Beside the Liquor or Water in the Fruit, there is also a sort of Wine drawn from the Tree called Toddy, which looks like Whey. It is sweet and very pleasant, but it is to be drunk within 24 hours after it is drawn, for after- wards it grows sowre. Those that have a great many Trees, draw a Spirit from the sowre Wine, called Arack Arack is distil I'd also from Rice, and other things in the East-Indies ; but none is so much esteemed for making Punch as this sort, made of Toddy, or the sap of the Coco-nut Tree, for it makes most delicate Punch ; but it must have a dash of Brandy to hearten it, because this Arack is not strong enough to make good Punch of it self. This sort of Liquor is chiefly used about Goa ; and there- fore it has the Name of Goa Arack. The way of drawing the Toddy from the Tree, is by cutting the top of a Branch that would bear Nuts ; but before it has any Fruit; and from thence the Liquor which was to feed its Fruit, distils into the Hole of a Callabash that is hung upon it. This Branch continues running almost as long as the Fruit would have been growing, and then it dries away. The Tree hath usually 3 fruitful Branches, which if they be all tapp'd thus, then the Tree bears no Fruit that year; but if one or two only be tapp'd, the other will bear Fruit all the while. The Liquor which is thus drawn is emptied 304 THE USES OF THE COCO-NUT ' of the Callxbash, duty MotTitng and Evening, so long ah-J it continues running, and is sold every Morning and ''' -ening in most Towns in the East-Indies, and great gains .= produced from it even this way; but those that distil it »nd make Arack, reap the greatest profit. There is also great profit made of the Fruit, both of the Nut and of the Shell. The Kernel is much used in making Broath, When the Nut Is dry, they take off the Husk, and giving two good Blows on the middle of the Nut, it breaks in two equal parts, letting the Water fall on the Ground ; then with a small Iron Rasp made for the purpose, the Kernel ^^r Nut is rasped out clean, which being put into a little ^^bsfa Water, makes it become white as Milk. In this ^BUky Waicr they boil a Fowl, or any other sort of Flesh, ^^fcd it makes very savory Broath. English Seamen put this water into boiled Rice, which they eat instead of Rice- milk, carrying Nuts purposely to Sea with them. This •hey Icam from the Natives. But the greatest use of the Kernel is to make Oyl, *T(h for burning and for frying. The way to make the ')»1 It to grate or rasp the Kernel, and steep it in fresh pater; then boil it, and scum off the Oyl at top as it : But the Nuts that make the Oyl ought lu be a long : gathered, so as that the Kernel may be turning soft doir. The Shell of this Nut is used in the East-Indies for Dishes, Ladles, Spoons, and in a manner for all j and drinking Vessels. Well shaped Nuts are often Highi home to Europe, and much esteemed. The Husk f tSe Shell is of great use to make Cables ; for the dry fmk a full of small Strings and Threads, which being [Btni, become soft, and the other Substance which was nong it falls away like Saw-dust, leaving only the j». These arc afterwards spun into long Yarns, and 1 up into Balls for Convenience : and many of these e-Yams joined tc^cthcr make good Cables.' This CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Manufactory is chiefly used at the Maldive-Islands, and '^^ the threads sent in Balls into all places that trade thither, purposely for to make Cables. I made a Cable at Achin with some of it. These are called Coire Cables ; they will last very well. But there is another sort of Coire Cables (as they are called) that are black, and more strong and lasting ; and are made of strings that grow, like Horse- hair, at the heads of certain Trees, almost like the Coco- nut Tree. This sort comes most from the Island Timor. In the South Seas the Spaniards do make Oakam to caulk their Ships, with the husk of the Coco-nut, which is more serviceable than that made of hemp, and they say it will never rot. I have been told by Captain Knox,^ who wrote the Relation of Ceylon, that in some places of India they make a sort of course Cloth of the husk of the Coco-nut, which is used for Sails. I my self have seen a sort of course Sail-cloth made of such a kind of substance ; but whether the same or no I know not. I have been the longer on this subject, to give the Reader a particular Account of the use and profit of a Vegetable, which is possibly of all others the most generally serviceable to the conveniencies, as well as the necessities of humane Life. Yet this Tree, that is of such great use, and esteemed so much in the East-Indies, is scarce regarded in the West-Indies, for want of the knowledge of the benefit which it may produce. And 'tis partly for the sake of my Country-men, in our American Plantations, that I have spoken so largely of it. For the hot Climates there are a very proper soil for it : and indeed it is so hardy, both in the raising it, and when grown, that it will thrive as well in dry sandy ground as in rich land. I have found them growing very well in low sandy Islands (on the West of Sumatra) that are over-flowed with the Sea every Spring-tide ; and though the Nuts there are not very big, yet this is no loss, * This was Robert Knox, a sea-captain, who spent nearly twenty years in Ceylon (1659-1679) as a prisoner among the natives of the interior. His book is called "An Historical Relation of the Island of Ceylon in the East Indies." It is a folio volume, first published in 1681. Knox seems to have left the sea-service about 1694. He died at the age of eighty in July 1720. 306 THE LIME TREE AND FRUIT H for the Kernel t» thick and sweet; and the Milk, or Water aw. in the insdc, is marc pleasant and sweet than of the Nuts that '^^ grow in rich ground, which arc commonly Urge indeed, bur not very sweet. TTiese at Guam grow in dry ground, ire of a middle size, and I think the sweetest that 1 did ■ e\'er taste. Thus much for the Coco-nut. | The Lime is a sort of bastard or Crab-Jimon. The Tree, or Bush that bears it, is prickly, like a Thorn, grow- ing full of small boughs. In Jamaica, and other places, they make of the Lime-Bush Fences about Gardens, or any other Inclosurc, by planting the seeds close together, which ■ Sawing up thick, spread abroad, and make a very good I edge. The Kniit is like a Lemon, but snullcr ; the rind I tiun, and the inclosed subsnncc full of juice. The juice is very rart, yet of a pleasant taste if sweetned with Sugar. I It H chiefly used for making Punch, both in the East and WeM'Indies, as well ashore as at Sea, and much of it is for that purpose yearly brought home to England, from our West-India Plantations. It is also used for a particular . kind of Sauce, which is called Pcppcr-Sauce, and is made ■ of Cod-pepper, commonly called Guinea-pepper, boiled in I Water, and then pickled with Sati. and mixd with Lime- I ' :ice to jTcservc it. Limcs grow plentiful in the East and I '■ Veil -Indies, within the Tropicks. I The Bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large Tree, * aa big and high as our largest Apple-Trccs. It hath a tprcsdiag head full of brancheeet * and pleasant. The Natives of this Island use it for I Bread : they gather it when full grown, while it is green I ind hard; then they bake it in an Oven, which scorcheth ' 'he rind and makes it black : but they scrape off the outside lick crust, and there remains a tender thin crust, and the inside ii soft, tender and white, like the crumb of a Penny ' It i% laiher Urger thnn a large melon. I * Like npyie miitce. i 307 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS. Loaf. There is ndther seed nor stone in the inside, but '^^-^^ all is of a pure substance like Bread : it must be eaten new, for if it is kept above 24 hours, it becomes dry, and eats harsh and choaky ; but *tis very pleasant before it is too stale. This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year ; during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind. I did never see of this Fruit any where but here. The Natives told us, that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands; and I did never hear of anv of it anv where else. They have here some Rice also : but the Island being of a dry Soil, and therefore not very proper for it, they do not sow very much. Fish is scarce about this Island ; yet on the shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty, and the Natives commonly go thither to fish. The Natives of this Island are strong-bodied, large- Iimb*d, and well-shap'd. They are Copper-coloured, like other Indians: their hair is black and long, their eyes meanly proportioned ; they have pretty high Noses ; their Lips are pretty full, and their Teeth indifferent white. They are long visaged, and stern of countenance ; yet we found them to be affable and courteous. They are many of them troubled with a kind of Leprosie. This distemper is very common at Mindanao : therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter. They of Guam are otherwise very healthy, especially in the dry season : but in the wet season, which comes in in June, and holds till October, the air is more thick and unwholsome ; which occasions Fevers : but the Rains are not violent nor lasting. For the Island lies so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands, or any other Land, that the Westerly Winds do seldom blow so far ; and when they do, they do not last long : but the Easterly Winds do constantly blow here, which are dry and healthy ; and this Island is found to be very healthful, as we were informed while we lay by it. The Natives are very ingenious beyond any People, in making Boats, or Proes, as they are called in the East-Indies, and therein they take great delight. These are built sharp at both ends; the bottom is of one piece, made like the bottom of a 308 PROES. OR INDIAN BOATS ttUe Cancm, very neatly dog, uid left of k good substance, am. This bottom part b instead of a Keel. It ts about 16 or '^^ 26 foot long ; the under part of this Keel is made round, but incltmrtg to a wedge, and smcxxh ; and the upper part is almost ftat, having a very gentle hollow, and is about a foot brood : From hence both sides of the Boat are carried op to about 5 foot high with narrow Plank, not above 4 or 5 inches broad, and each end of the Boat turns up round, very prettily. But what is very singular, one side of the Boat is made perpendicular, UkJe a Wall, while the other sde is rounding, made as other Vessels arc, with a pretty full belly. Just in the middle it is about 4 or $ foot broad aloft, or more, according to the length of the Boat. The Mast stands exactly in the middle, with a long Yard that pecks up and down like a Mizen-yard.' One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat, where it is pUoed in a notch.* that is made there purposely to receive It, and keep it fast. The other end hangs over the Stern : To this Yard the Sail is fastened. At the foot of the Sail there is another small Yard,' to keep the Sail out square, and to roll up the Sail on when it blows hard ; for it serves insccad of a Reef to uke up the sail to what d^rce they please, according to the strength of the Wind. Along the Beliy-^c of the Boat, parallel with it, at about 6 or 7 foot distance, lies another small Boat, or Canoa, being a Leg of very light Wood, almost as long as the great Boat, but not to wide, being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part, and very sharp like a Wedge at each end. And there arc two Samboes of about 8 or 10 font long, and as big as ones Leg, placed over the great Boats side, one near each end of it, and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat ; By the help of which, the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other. These are generally called by the Dutch, and by the English from them, Out- ■ Tb« inuea yard wm* A blixn yard, tcltintc fore Md aft, unlil ibe md of Ibc ci|lttecntli centttry, wben iht "i|Mnker" wa> Adopted. The ancimt ' A* ia maoT latcciwigfed boal* in lli« Mediterranean. ' Tkb cnnnmiice i* will in ■»> amunK ihe praha men of the rhilippliM littwdi ud lb« Malay ArchipcUgo. 309 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. layers.^ The use of them is to keep the greait Boat upright 1686 from over-setting; because the Wind here bring in a manner constantly East, (or if it were at West it would be the same thing) and the Range of these Islands, where their business lies too and fro, being mostly North and South, they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind, upon which they sail, and the Belly-side, consequently with its little Boat, is upon the Lee : And the Vessel having a Head at each end, so as to sail with either of them fore- most (indifferently) they need not tack, or go about, as all our Vessels do, but each end of the Boat serves either for Head or Stern as they please. When they ply to Wind- ward, and are minded to go about, he that steers bears away a little from the Wind, by which means the stem comes to the Wind ; which is now become the Head, only by shifting the end of the Yard. This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle, instead of a Rudder. I have been the more particular in describing these Boats, because I do believe, they sail the best of any Boats in the World. I did here for my own satisfaction, try the swiftness of one of them ; sailing by our Log,^ we had 12 Knots on our Reel, and she run it all out before the half Minute-Glass was half out ; which, if it had been no more, is after the rate of 12 Mile an hour ; but I do believe she would have run 24 Mile an hour. It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side. * Outriggers. ^ The logship, reel, line, and glass require a brief description. The logship is a quadrant of wood, weighted on the curved side. It is attached to the line by two strands, one of which is pegged into the logship so lightly that a smart jerk will release it. The line is generally some eighty fathoms long. It is of white, tough cord "rather thicker than whip-cord." It is rolled round a large wooden reel. When "hove" the two strands of the line are so fixed as to keep the logship upright in the sea, presenting a flat surface to the water. The logship then offers so much resistance to the water that, as the ship advances, the line is drawn off the reel quickly or slowly according to the speed of the vessel. The log is hove at the instant that a seaman turns a half-minute sand-glass. The line is divided into spaces " which bear the same relation to a nautical mile that half a minute does to an hour." Each space is marked with a knot in the line ; so that, at the end of the half minute's running, the seaman can calculate the speed of his ship by noting the number of knots which have run out. 310 m THE SPANIARDS AT GUAM Tbc Native Indians are no less dexterous in managing, than in building these Boats. By report, they will go from ■ bence to another of the Ladrone Islands about 30 leagues fpB, and there do their Business, and return again in less I II hours. I was told that one of these Boats was sent ExpreM to Manila, which is above 400 leagues, and per- forincd the Voyage in 4 days time. There are of these Procs or Boats used in many places of the East-Indies, but with a Belly and a little Boat on each side.' Only at Mindanao I saw one like these, with the Belly and a little Boat only on one side, and the other flat, but not so neatly built. Tlie Indians of Guam have neat little Houses, very hftodsomcly thatch'd with Patmeto-thatch. They inhabit together in Villages built by the Sea, on the west side, and have Spanish Priests to instruct them in the Christian Religion. The Spaniards have a small Fort on the west side, near ibe south end. with 6 Guns in it. There is a Governor, and 20 or 30 Spanish Soldiers. There are no more Spaniards on this Island, beside 2 or 3 Priests. Not long bnorc we arrived here, the Natives rose on the Spaniards to dntroy them, and did kill many: But the Governor with hb Soldiers at length prevailed, and drove them out of the Fort : So when they found themselves disappointed of their tttient, they destroyed the Plantations and Stock, and then went away to other Islands : There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Island; but now there are not above 100; for all that were in this Conspiracy went away. As for these who yet remain, if they were not actually concerned in that brutl, yet their hearts also are bent against the Spaniards : few they offlsred to carry us to the Kort, and aanit us in the Conquest of the Island ; but Captain Swan wat DOC for molesting the Spaniards here. ' A* tn tb« Siameie and BenicatcHr duff-ouli. Mitny primitive Easi latea bcatbgiMrn ate ihc iluublc outrigger to vive th«ir long, n&n«w •afe (tobilify. Tbc t*Btt\Ari u»e a small Ikai fitted with an oiitrigftcr ^ ad) tide. Tbc buctanccrs, who criii»rt) w> often in "amoBt," or lonfc, WW di«.«wU, BM>*i liavB nMded « liniiUr device. TcThapt ihey luhed icn>|lM «oadcn polti alone the wd« of the canoas. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Before we came to an anchor here, one of the Priests i^^ came aboard in the Night with 3 Indians. They first haled us to know from whence we came, and what we were : to whom answer was made in Spamsh, that we were Spaniards, and that we came from Acapalco. It being dark they could not see the make of our Ship, nor very well discern what we were : Therefore they came aboard ; but perceiving the mistake they were in, in taking us for a Spamsh Ship, they endeavoured to get from us again, but we held their Boat fast, and made them come in. Captain Swan received the Priest with much Civility, and conducting him into the Great Cabbin, declared. That the reason of our coming to this Island was want of Provision, and that he came not in any hostile manner, but as a Friend to purchase with his Money what he wanted : And therefore desired the Priest to write a Letter to the Governor, to inform him what we were, and on what account we came. For having him now aboard, the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hostage, till we had Provision. The Padre told Captain Swan, that Provision was now scarce on the Island ; but he would engage, that the Governor would do his utmost to furnish us. In the Morning the Indians, in whose Boat or Proe the Friar came aboard, were sent to the Governor with two Letters ; one from the Friar, and another very obliging one from Captain Swan, and a Present of 4 Yards of Scarlet- cloath, and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace. The Governor lives near the South end of the Island on the West side; which was about 5 leagues from the place where we were ; therefore we did not expect an answer till the Evening, not knowing then how nimble they were. Therefore when the Indian Canoa was dispatched away to the Governor, we hoisted out 2 of our Canoas, and sent one a fishing, and the other ashore for Coco-nuts. Our fishing Canoa got nothing ; but the Men ^ that went ashore for Coco-nuts came off laden. About 1 1 a Clock, that same Morning, the Governor * Dampier was one of them. His mates "felled a coco-nut tree whose fruite gave us all our bellyes full both of the milke and kemell." 312 r PRESENTS TO CAPTAIN SWAN I of the l&land tent a Letter to Captain Swan, complimenting ' him for his Present, and promising to support us with as " much Provision, as he could possibly spare ; and as a Token of hii Gratitude, he sent a present of 6 Hogs, of a small sort, most excellent Meat, the best 1 think, that ever I eat : They are fed with Coco-nuts, and their flesh is hard as Brisket Beef. They were doubtless of that breed in America which came originallj' from Spain : He sent also 12 Musknaelons, larger than ours in England, and as many Water-melons, both sorts here being a very excellent Kruit ; and sent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship, to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did desire, and to assist us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have; which they accordingly did, and brought oflfthe Bread-Fruit every day hot, as much as we could eat. After this the Governor sent every day a Canoa or two with H<^s and Kruit, and destred for the same Powder, Shot and Arms ; which was sent according to his Request. We had a delicate large Kngltsh Dog ; which the Governor did desire, and had it given him very freely by the Captain though much against the grain of many of his Men, who had a great value for that Dog- Captain Swan endeavoured to get this Governors Letter of Recommendation to some Merchants at Manila, for he had then a design to po to Fort St. George,' and from thence intended to trade to Manila : but thtfl his design was concealed from the company. While we lay here, the Acapulco Ship arrived in sight of 'the IiUnd, but did not come in sight of us; for the Governor sent an Indian Proe, with advice of our being here Therefore she stood off to the Southward of the Island, and coming foul of the same sholc that our Bark had run over bclore, was in great danger of being lost there, for she struck off her Rudder, and with much ado gt){ clear; but not till after three days labour. For tho* the shole be so near the Island, and the Indians go off and 6%h there every day, yet the Master of the Acapulco Ship, ' Madnt. 3'3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. who should (one would think) know these Parts, was 1686 utterly ignorant of it. This their striking on the shole we heard afterward, when we were on the Coast of Manila ; but these Indians of Guam did speak of her being in sight of the Island while we lay there, which put our Men in a great heat to go out after her, but Capt^n Swan per- suaded them out of that humour, for he was now wholly averse to any Hostile action. The 30th day of May, the Governor sent his last Present, which was some Hogs, a Jar of pickled Mangoes, a Jar of excellent pickled Fish, and a Jar of fine Rusk, or Bread of fine Wheat Flower, baked like Bisket, but not so hard. He sent besides, 6 or 7 packs of Rice, desiring to be excused from sending any more Provision to us, saying he had no more on the Island that he could spare. He sent word also, that the West Monsoon was at hand, that therefore it behoved us to be jogging from hence, unless we were resolved to return back to America again. Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice, and took his leave ; and the same day sent the Friar ashore, that was seized on at our first arrival, and gave him a large Brass Clock, an Astrolabe, and a large Telescope ; for which Present the Friar sent us aboard six Hogs, and a roasting Pig, 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes, and 50 pound of Manila Tobacco. Then we prepared to be gone, being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao, where we designed next to touch. We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow, and we had a good stock of Rice, and about 50 Hogs in salt. 3H I CHAP. XI "hty rnaku It /» m Mindanao. Thtir dtpurturt fretn Guam. Of tfu PhiSffint Iilandi. The hli lufcnia, and ill chief Town and P*rt, Manila^ Manila, ar Maailha. Ofthf nth Tradt wr might aUhSth mth ihtu Itlandt. Si. Jahn'i liland. Thty arrive at Mimdanat. The Island deuribed. In Feruliiy. The Libby Tretty anJ the &ij:» made of ihem. The Plantain Tree, Fruit, Lifur, anJ CUath. A imaller Plantain at Mindanao. The Bsmamt, Of the CUve-bari, Cloves and Nutmegs, and the Methodi Uhn by the Duuh to Monepolizf the Spites. The Betel-Nut, and 4rti'Tret. Th* Durian^ and the Jaca-Tree and Fruit. The Btasts tf Mindanao. Centafees or Fort acco 3»9 > alwai*. ;■ « CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Year. This Tree for its body and shape is much like the 1686 Palmeto-Tree, or the dbbage-Tree, but not so tall as the latter. The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell, and full of white Pith, like the Pith of an Elder. This Tree they cut down, and split it in the middle, and scrape out all the Pith ; which they beat lustily with a Wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough, and then put it into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough ; and pouring Water in among the Pith, they stir it about in the Cloth : So the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough, leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk, which they throw away; but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud ; and then they draw ofF the Water, and take up the muddy substance, wherewith they make Cakes ; which being baked proves very good Bread. The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 Months of the Year on this P'ood for their Bread-kind. The Native Indians of Teranate,^ and Tidore, and all the Spice Islands, have plenty of these Trees, and use them for Food in the same manner ; as I have been informed by Mr. Caril Rofy,* who is now Commander of one of the King's Ships. He was one of our Company at this time ; and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao, went afterwards to Teranate, and lived there among the Dutch a Year or two. The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies, is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits, and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds, by those that are troubled with the Flux ; for it is a great binder, and very good in that Distemper. In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice ; * Tcrnatc. * "Mr. Caril Rofy." Mr. Kerrill Roflfey (sometimes called Mr. Kcrill, or Caryl, Rossey) was a lieutenant aboard H.M.S. Vanifuard in 1691-2. He afterwards commanded the iiriphon fireship, aboard which was Lieutenant Geor^'^c Fisher, the man who caused Dampier's downfall in 1702. Roffcy went on service to the West Indies in 1705. He rose to be captain of the Rurford^ 70-gun ship, and died in 17 16. Charnock gives a short life of him, and he is mentioned repeatedly in the logs and muster-books of the shii)s in which he served. He took part in the attack on Gibrahar in 1704. 320 THE PLANTAIN TREE OR SHRUB t in the hilly Land they plant Yams, Potatoes, and as-.- itnpltins ; all which thrive very well. The other Fruits "^^^ of this Island arc Watcr-Melons, Musk-Melons, Plantains, Borunocs, Guavas, Nutmegs, Cloves, Betci-Nuts, Durians, Jack-o, or Jacas, Coco-Nuis, Oranges, &c. The Plantain 1 take to be the King of all Fruit, not :pt the Coco it self. The Tree that bears this Fruit is •bout 3 Foot, or 3 Foot and an half round, and about 10 or t2 Foot high. These Trees are not raised from Seed, (for they seem not to have any) but from the Roots of other old Trees. If these young Suckers are taken out of the Ground, and planted in another place, it will be 15 Months before they bear, but if let stand in their own Mtive Soil they will bear in 12 Months. As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays, but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place. When this Tree fim springs out of the Ground, it comes up with two Ixavcs; and by that time it is a Foot high, two more iprii^ up in the inside of them ; and in a short time after more within them ; and so on. By that time the xe ti a Month old, you may perceive a small body almost big as one* Arm, and then there arc eight or ten Leaves, some rf them four or five Foot high. The first Leaves tlut it shoots forth are not above a Foot long, and half Foot broad ; and the Stem that bears them no bigger sn ones Finger; but as ihc Tree grows higher the Leaves c larger. As the young Leaves spring up in the inside, the old IxiTcs spread off, and their tops droop down- wmrd, being of a greater length and breadth, by how much tbey are nearer the Root, and at last decay and rot oflF : but ■till there are young Leaves spring up out ot the top, which irukct the Tree look always green and flourishing. When the Tree i$ full grown, the Leaves arc 7 or 8 Foot long, and a Foot and half broad ; towards the end they arc smaller, and cod with a round point. The Stem of the Leaf is as big •s a Man's Arm, almost round, and about a Foot in length, hrtween the Leaf and the Body of the Tree. That part of the Stem which comes from the Tree, if it be the outside Leaf, seems to inclose half the Body as it were with a thick vol.. I. 3*' * I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Hide ; and right against it, on the other side of the Tree, '^^ is another such answering to it. The next two Leaves, in the inside of these^ grow opposite to each other in the same manner, but so that if the two outward grow North and South, these grow East and West, and those still within them keep the same order. Thus the Body of this Tree seems to be made up of many thick Skins, growing one over another, and when it is full grown, there springs out of the top a strong Stem, harder in substance than any other part of the Body. This Stem shoots forth at the Heart of the Tree, is as big as a Man's Arm, and as long ; a:nd the Fruit grows in clusters round it, first blossoming and then shooting forth the Fruit. It is so excellent, that the Spaniards give it the preheminence of all other Fruit, as most conducing to Life. It grows in a Cod about 6 or 7 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. The Shell, Rind or Cod, is soft, and of a yellow colour when ripe. It resembles in shape a Hogs-gut Pudding. The inclosed Fruit is no harder than Butter in Winter, and is much of the colour of the purest yellow Butter. It is of a delicate taste, and melts in ones Mouth like Marmalet. It is all pure Pulp, without any Seed, Kernel or Stone. This Fruit is so much esteemed by all Europeans that settle in America, that when they make a new Plantation, they commonly begin with a good Plantain-walk, as they call it, or a Field of Plantains ; and as their Family increaseth, so they augment the Plantain-walk, keeping one Man purposely to prune the Trees, and gather the Fruit as he sees con- venient. For the Trees continue bearing, some or other, most part of the Year ; and this is many times the whole Food on which a whole Family subsists. They thrive only in rich fat ground, for poor sandy will not bear them. The Spaniards in their Towns in America, as at Havana, Cartagena, Portobel, &c. have their Markets full of Plantains, it being the common Food for poor People : Their common price is half a Rial, or 3 d. a Dozen. When this Fruit is only used for Bread, it is roasted or boiled when it's just full grown, but not yet ripe, or turn'd yellow. Poor People, or Negroes, that have neither Fish nor Flesh 322 THE PLANTAIN FRUIT _ 1 eat with it, nuke Sauce with Cod-pepper, Salt and Lime- ak. juice, which makes il cat very savory; much bctier than a '*^ ' crust of Bread tJone. Sometimes for a change they eat a roasted Planuin, and a ripe raw Plantain together, which is instead of Brt^d and Butler. They cat very pleasant so, and I have made many a good meal in this manner. Some- times our English take 5 or 7 ripe Plantains, and mashing (hem together, make them into a lump, and boti them instead of a Bag-pudding; which they call a Buff-Jacket: and this is a very good way for a change. This Fruit makes »l»o very good Tarts ; and the green Plantains slic'd thin, and dried m the Sun, and grated, will make a sort of Klour which is very good to make Puddings. A ripe Pbntxin slic'd and dried in the Sun may be preserved a great while ; and then cat like Figs, very sweet and pleasant. rhe Daricn Indians preserve them a long time, by drying * ;m gently over the Fire ; mashing them first, and .I'lulding them into lumps. The Moskito Indians will uke a npe Plantain and roast it ; then take a pint and half of Water in a Calabash, and squeeze the Plantain in pieces with their Hands, mixing it with the Water ; then tfaey drink it all off together: This they call Mishlaw, and It*) pleasant and sweet, and nourishing ; somewhat like Lambs-wool (as 'tis call'd) made with Apples and Ale: ind of this Fruit alone many thousands of Indian Families ! the West-Indies have their whole subsistence. When cy make Drink with them, they take 10 or 12 ripe !' antains and mash them well in a Trough : then they put . Gallons of Water among them; and this in 2 Hours ■■me will ferment and froth like Wort. In 4 Hours it is '!' to Drink, and then they bottle it, and drink it as they ' .ivc occasion: but this will not keep above 34 or 30 ■ loun. Those therefore that use this Drink, Brew it in ■ his manner every Momlne. When I went first to Jamaica : could relish no other drink they had there. It drinks 'T>sk and cool, and b very pleasant. This Drink is windy, and so is the Fruit eaten raw ; but boil'd or roasted it is not in. If this Drink ts kept above 30 Hours it grows sharp: but if then it be put out in the Sun, it wilt become very 223 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. good Vinegar. This Fruit grows all over the West-Indies 1686 ^[jj ^||g proper Climates) at Guinea, and in the East-Indies. As the Fruit of this Tree is of great use for Food, so is the Body no less serviceable to make Cloaths ; but this I never knew till I came to this Island. The ordinary People of Mindanao do wear no other Cloth. The Tree never bearing but once, and so being feird when the Fruit is ripe, they cut it down close by the Ground if they intend to make Cloth ^ with it. One blow with a Hatchet, or long Knife, will strike it asunder; then they cut off the top, leaving the trunk 8 or 10 foot long, stripping off the outer Rind, which is thickest towards the lower end, having stript 2 or 3 of these Rinds, the Trunk becomes in a manner all of one bigness, and of a whitish colour : Then they split the Trunk in the middle ; which being done, they split the two halves again, as near the middle as they can. This they leave in the Sun 2 or 3 Days, in which time part of the juicy substance of the Tree dries away, and then the ends will appear full of small Threads. The Women, whose employment it is to make the Cloth, take hold of those Threads one by one, which rend away easily from one end of the Trunk to the other, in bigness like whited brown thread ; for the threads are naturally of a determinate big- ness, as I observed their Cloth to be all of one substance and equal fineness ; but 'tis stubborn when new, wears out soon, and when wet, feels a little slimy. They make their pieces 7 or 8 Yards long, their Warp and Woof all one thickness and substance. There is another sort of Plantains^ in that Island, which are shorter and less than the others, which I never saw any where but here. These are full of black Seeds mixt quite through the Fruit. They are binding, and are much eaten by those that have Fluxes. The Country People gave them us for that use, and with good success. ^ This plantain-fibre cloth appears to have become obsolete in Mindanao. The poorer natives now wear cotton. The rich wear a material woven from the leaf of the pine-apple. Many natives have adopted the European habit. Plantain-fibre cloth is still woven, and worn, in some of the South Pacific islands. * Apparently the wild tamarind. 324 r BONANOS— CLOVES— NUTMEGS ^ ■ The Bonano Tree is exactly like the Plantain for shape am. rand bigness, not easily distinguishable from it but by its '^** [ Fruit, which is a great deal smaller, and not above half so long as a Plantain, being also more mellow and soft, less luscious, yet of a more delicate taste. They use this for J the making Drink oftner than Plantains, and it is best I when used for Drink ; or eaten as Fruit ; but it is not so J good for Bread, nor doth it ext well at all when roasted or H boil'd ; so 'tis only necessity that makes any use it this way. H They grow generally where Plantains do, being set inter- H mixt with them purposely in their Plantain- walks. They ■ have plenty of Clovcbark, of which I saw a Ship load ; and I as for Cloves, Raja Laut, whom I shall have occasion to I mention, told mc, that if the English would settle there, I ihey could order Matters so in a little time, as to send a I ship-load trf" Cloves from thence every Year. I have been I informed that they grow on the Boughs of a Tree about as I big as a Plumb'tree, but 1 never happened to see any of them. I I have not seen the Nutmeg-trccs anywhere ; but the M Nutmegs this Island produceih are fair and large, yet they H have no great store of them, being unwilling to propagate H tbem or the Cloves, for fear that should invite the Dutch ' to visit them, and bring them into subjection, as they have dffiie the rest of the neighbouring Islands where they grow. For the Dutch being seated among the Spicc-Islands, have monc^mlixed all the Trade into their own Hands, and will not suffer any of the Natives to dispose of it, but to them- selves atone. Nay, they arc so careful to preserve it in their own Hands, that they will not suffer the Spice to grow in the uninhabited Islands, but send Soldiers to cut the Trees down. Captain Rofy told mc, that while he lived with the Dutch, he was sent with other Men to cut down the Spice- Trees ; and that he himself did at several times cut down 7 or 800 Trees. Yet although the Dutch lake such care to destroy ihcm, there arc many uninhabited Islands that have great plenty of Spice-Trees, as I have been informed by Dutch Men that have been there, particularly by a Captain '>f ■ Dutch Ship that I met with at Achin, who tola me, :lut near the Island Banda there is an Island where the 3»5 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Cloves falling from the Trees do lie and rot on the ground, '^^^ and they are at the time when the Fruit falls, 3 or 4 Inches thick under the Trees. He and some others told me, that it would not be a hard matter for an English Vessel to purchase a Ship's Cargo of Spice, of the Natives of some of these Spice-Islands. He was a free Merchant that told me this. For by that name the Dutch and English in the East-Indies, distinguish those Merchants who are not Servants to the Company. The free Merchants are not suffered to Trade to the Spice- Islands, nor to many other places where the Dutch have Factories; but on the other Hand, they are suffered to Trade to some places where the Dutch Company themselves may not Trade, as to Achin particularly, for there are some Princes in the Indies, who will not Trade with the Com- pany for fear of them. The Seamen that go to the Spice Islands are obliged to bring no Spice from thence for them- selves, except a small matter for their own use, about a pound or two. Yet the Masters of those Ships do com- monly so order their business, that they often secure a good quantity, and send it ashore to some place near Batavia, before they come into that Harbour, (for it is always brought thither first before it's sent to Europe,) and if they meet any Vessel at Sea that will buy their Cloves, they will sell 10 or 15 Tuns out of 100, and yet seemingly carry their Complement to Batavia ; for they will pour Water among the remaining part of their Cargo, which will swell them to that degree, that the Ships Hold will be as full again, as it was before any were sold. This Trick they use when ever they dispose of any clandestinely, for the Cloves when they first take them in are extraordinary dry ; and so will imbibe a great deal of Moisture. This is but one In- stance, of many hundreds, of little deceitful Arts the Dutch Sea-men have in these Parts among them, of which I have both seen and heard several. I believe there are no where greater Thieves ; ^ and nothing will persuade them to dis- * It was commonly said of the Dutch in the East Indies at this time, that **thcy would do no right, and take no wrong." In a letter from Sir Thomas Lynch to the Lords of Trade and Plantations (Calendar of Stale 326 THE BETEL-TREE AND NUT trer one another; for should any do it, the rest would ah.* Kecrtunly knock him on the Head. But to return to the '^^ ■■Rtxlucts of Mindanao. The Betel-nut ' is much esteemed here, as it is in most places of the East-Indies. The Betel-Tree grows like the Cabbage-Tree, but it is not so big, nor so high. The Body grows strait, about 12 or 14 foot high without Leaf or Branch, except at the Head. There it spreads forth long Branches, like other Trees of the like nature, as the Cabbage- Tree, the Coco-Nut Tree, and the Palm. These Branches arc about to or 12 foot long, and their stems near the head of the Tree, as big as a Man's Arm. On the top of the Tree among the Branches the Betel-Nut grows on a tough '■:cni as big as a Man's Finger, in clusters much as the Coco-Nuts do, and they grow 40 or $0 in a cluster. This Fruit is Inggcr than a Nutmeg, and is much like it. but nwndcr. It is much used all over the East-Indies. Their way i» to cut it in four pieces, and wrap one of them up in an Arek leaf, which ihcy spread with 2 soft Paste made of Lime or Plaster, and then chew it altogether. Every nun in these parts carries his Lime-Box by his side, and dipping his Rngcr into it, spreads his Betel and Arek leaf with it. The Arek is a small Tree or Shrub, of a green Bark, and the Leaf is long and broader than z Willow. They are pgickt up to sell into Parts that have them not, to chew with the Betel. The Betel-Nut is most esteemed when it B young, and before it grows hard, and then they cut it Papcfa, West Indiaa and Colonial SEriei, September 12, 1683) mention is — -*' «f MMnc Dutch piiatM who hail been at work near Cura<;ua. "1 *i»dci not," ttjn Sir ■niomai, "that they do this in the West as they have 4aae ao vnch mora in tb« Ea»i Indies, and that there is in Holland this pww wt i . * l«MU Chritt if ^ootJ, but trade is better.'" ' The httclitui proper is the nut of the Arcca palm {Areca catechu), ^)«B to ibe iuiiTve« as the bunfia. The nut is gathered and cut a* Daapiar dtxrib**. The faciel^hewcr then lakes an "Arek-lcaf," »: ftcta leaf tf the " buyo," or piper betel plant, and smears it thickly It * pule at liroe (mode from pounded oyster- she Ms). The leaf is then vtapacd roand the broken piece of nut, and the whole is placed in the ■Hota of ibe cbewef. The nut siiinulates uilivatlon, and tinges the spittle *«h a flcarld cnhMr. The mouth of a bctel-rhcwer appearn to be bloody. TWhetd-noi ■■ wbole*onie, if used in moderation. I) am pier here confounds At t*a plaaOk but hie pain tt om his ctTOt in Chapter 1 1 1 . of his Mcond volume. 327 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. only in two pieces with the green Husk or Shell on it. It 1686 jg ^[^g|^ exceeding juicy, and therefore makes them spit much. It tastes rough in the Mouth, and dies the Lips red, and makes the Teeth black, but it preserves them, and cleanseth the Gums. It is also accounted very wholsom for the Stomach ; but sometimes it will cause great giddi- ness in the head of those that are not us*d to chew it. But this is the Effect only of the old Nut, for the young Nuts will not do it. I speak of my own Experience. This Island produceth also Durians and Jacks. The Trees that bear the Durians, are as big as Apple-Trees, full of Boughs. The Rind is thick and rough ; the Fruit is so large that they grow only about the Bodies, or on the Limbs near the Body, like the Cacao. The Fruit is about the bigness of a large Pumpkin, covered with a thick green rough Rind. When it is ripe, the Rind begins to turn yellow, but it is not fit to eat till it opens at the top. Then the Fruit in the inside is ripe, and sends forth an excellent Scent.^ When the Rind is opened, the Fruit may be split into four quarters ; each quarter hath several small Cells, that inclose a certain quantity of the Fruit, according to the bigness of the Cell, for some are larger than others. The largest of the Fruit may be as big as a Pullets Egg. 'Tis as white as Milk, and as soft as Cream, and the Taste very delicious to those that are accustomed to them ; but those who have not been used to eat them, will dislike them at first, because they smell like roasted Onions. This Fruit must be eaten in its prime, (for there is no eating of it before it is ripe) and even then 'twill not keep above a day or two before it putrifies, and turns black, or of a dark colour, and then it is not good. Within the Fruit there is a Stone as big as a small Bean, which hath a thin Shell over it. Those that are minded to eat the Stones or Nuts, roast them, and then a thin Shell comes off, which incloses the Nut ; and it eats like a Chesnut. The Jack or Jaca" is much like the Durian, both in big- ^ The smell is disgusting. ^ The Jack Fruit is a variety of Durian. 328 THE ANIMALS HERE ■ ness »mi shape. The Trees that bear them also are much aw. 1 hke, and so is their manner of the Fruiis growing. But "^^ the inside is dif^rcnt ; for the Fruit of the Duriati is white, that of the Jack is yellow, and fuller of Stones. The ^ Durian ts most esteemed ; yet the Jack is a very pleasant ^M Fruit, and the Stones or Kernels are good roasted. ^| There are many other sorts of Grain, Roots and Fruits ^| in thi^ Island, which to give a. particular description of ^M would fill up a large Volume. ^M In this Island are also many sorts of Beasts, both wild ^M and tame ; as Hones, Bulls, and Cows, Buflalocs, Goats, ^M Wild Hc^s, Deer, Monkics, Guano's, Lizards, Snakes, &c. ^M I never saw or heard of any Beasts of Prey here, as in many ^M other nUccs. The Hogs are ugly Creatures ; they have all V great Knobs growing over their Eyes, and there arc multi- fl tudcs of them in the Woods. They are commonly very ^M poor, yet sweet. Deer are here very plentiful in some ^M ^ccs, where they are not disturbed. ^M Of the venomous kind of Creatures here arc Scorpions, H whose fling is in their Tail; and Centapees, call'd by the ■ English 40 Legs, both which are also common in the West- H Indies, in Jamaica, and elswhere. These Centapees are 4 H or 5 Inches long, as big as a Goose-Quill, but flattish ; of a H Dun or reddish colour on the Back, but Belly whitish, and H full of Legs on each side the Belly. Their Sting or Bite ■ is more raging than the Scorpion.* They lie in old Houses, H and dry Timber. There are several sorts of Snakes, some V very Poisonous. There is another sort of Creature ' like a Guano both in colour and shape, but four times as big, whose Tongue is tike a small Harpoon, having two beards like the beards of a Fish-hook. They arc said to be very venomous, but I know not their Names. I have seen them in other places also, as at Pulo Condore, or the Island Condorc, and at Achin, and have been told that they are in the Bay of Bengal. The Fowb of this Country are Ducks and Hens: ' For iht "wotip^de bite" Mr. ForcRUUi prescribot a plaster of cnBhed cvlic. TIm: ttiag ii ulrcmdy p«inful. * Thnt are igvanuand \argt liiardt nn mosx of th« islantU. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Other tame Fowl I have not seen nor heard of any. The '^^ wild Fowl, are Pidgeons, Parrots, Parakits, Turtle Doves, and abundance of snmll Fowls. There are Bats as tng as a Kite.^ There are a great many Harbours, Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in ; and Rivers navigable for Canoas, Proes or Ba^ks, which are all plentifully stored with Fish of divers sorts, so is also the adjacent Sea. The chiefest Fish are Bonetas, Snooks, Cavally's, Bremes, Mullets, lo Pounders, &c. Here are also plenty of Sea Turtle, and small Manatee, which are not near so big as those in the West-Indies. The biggest that I saw would not weigh above 600 Pound ; but the flesh both of the Turtle and Manatee are very sweet. The Weather at Mindanao is temperate enough as to heat, for all it lies so near the Equator ; and especially on the borders near the Sea. There they commonly enjoy the breezes by day, and cooling Land Winds at Night. The Winds are Easterly one part of the Year, and Westerly the other. The Easterly Winds begin to blow in October, and it is the middle of November before they are settled. These Winds bring fair Weather. The Westerly Winds* begin to blow in May, but are not settled till a Month afterwards. The West Winds always bring Rain, Torna- does, and very Tempestuous Weather. At the first coming in of these Winds they blow but faintly; but then the Tornadoes rise one in a Day, sometimes two. These arc Thunder-showers which commonly come against the Wind, bringing with them a contrary Wind to what did blow before. After the Tornadoes are over, the Wind shifts about again, and the Sky becomes clear, yet then in the Valleys and the sides of the Mountains, there riseth a thick Fog, which covers the Land. The Tornadoes con- tinue thus for a Week or more ; then they come thicker, ^ Large fruit bats abound in many of the East Indian Islands. The natives kill them for their fur and for their meat. They are gregarious, and the caves in which they sleep are sometimes visited for guana ' The SW. monsoon generally sets in at the end of April. It must be borne in mind that the seasons are reversed on all " those coasts directly facing the Pacific." 330 THE WIND AND WEATHER V^wo or three in a Day, bringing violent gusts of Wind, and , terrible claps of Thunder. At last they come so fast, ' that the Wind remains in the quarter from whence these Tornadoes do rise, which is out of the West, and there it settles till October or November, When these Westward Winds are thus settled, the Sky is all in mourning, being covered with black Clouds, pouring down excessive Rains sometimes mixt with Thunder and Lightning, that nothing can be more dismal. The Winds raging to that degree, that the biggest Trees are torn up by the Roots, and the Rivers swell and overflow their Banks, and drown the low Land, carrying great Trees into the Sea. Thus it con- tinues sometimes a week together, before the Sun or Stars ■ppcar. The fiercest of this Weather is in the latter end of July and in August, for then the Towns seem to stand in a great Pond, and they go from one House to another ia Cvtoss. At this time the Water carries away all the filth and nastincss from under their Houses. Whilst this ttmpcstuous season lasts, the Weather ts Cold and Chilly. In September the Weather is more moderate, and the Wind* are not so fierce, nor the Rain so violent. The Air thenceforward begins to be more clear and delight- some ; but then in the morning there arc thick Fogs, continuing till lo or ii a Clock before the Sun shines out. apccially when it has rained in the Night. In October the Easterly Winds begin to blow again, and bring fair Weather till April. Thus much concerning the Itural state of Mindanao. 33" CHAP. XII Of the Inhabitants^ and Civil State of the Isle of Mindanao. The MindanayanSj HilanooneSj Sologues^ and Alfoores. Of the Minda- nayanSy properly so called ; Their Manners and Habits. The Habits and Manners of their JVomen. A Comical Custom at Mindanao. Their Houses^ their Diety and JVashings. The Languages spoken there^ and Transactions with the Spaniards, Their fear of the Dutch ^ and seeming desire of the English. Their Handy- Mile from the Sea. The manner of building is some- 335 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. what strange : yet generally used in this part of the East- i6«6 Indies. Their Houses are all built on Posts, about 14, 1 6, 18, or 20 Foot high. These Posts arc bigger or less, according to the intended magnificence of the Super- structure. They have but one Floor, but many Partitions or Rooms, and a Ladder or Stairs to go up out of the Streets. The Roof is large, and covered with Palmeto or Palm-leaves. So there is a clear passage like a Piazza (but a filthy one) under the House. Some of the poorer People that keep Ducks or Hens, have a fence made round the Posts of their Houses, with a Door to go in and out ; and this Under-room serves for no other use. Some use this place for the common draught of their Houses, but build- ing mostly close by the River in all parts of the Indies, they make the River receive all the filth of their House ; and at the Time of the Land-floods, all is washed very clean. The Sultan's House is much bigger than any of the rest. It stands on about 1 80 great Posts or Trees, a great deal higher than the common Building, with great broad Stairs made to go up. In the first Room he hath about 20 Iron Guns,^ all Saker and Minion, placed on Field-Carriages. The General, and other great Men have some Guns also in their Houses. About 20 paces from the Sultan's House there is a small low House, built purposely for the Recep- tion of Ambassadors or Merchant Strangers. This also stands on Posts, but the Floor is not raised above three or four Foot above the Ground, and is neatly Matted pur- posely for the Sultan and his Council to sit on ; for they use no Chairs, but sit cross-legg'd like Taylors on the Floor. The common Food at Mindanao is Rice, or Sago, and a small Fish or two. The better sort eat Buffalo, or Fowls ill drest, and abundance of Rice with it. They use no Spoons to eat their Rice, but every Man takes a handful ^ The saker was a gun of 3j-inch bore, throwing a ball of 5^ lbs. weight for a distance of about 1 100 yards. The gun was muzzle-loading, and needed a charge of about 5 lbs. of powder. It was 9 or 10 feet in length, and weighed rather less than 12 cwt. The minion was a lighter, shorter gun of about the same range. It threw a 4-lb. ball. 33^ OF THE HOUSES, ETC. of the PUi and b)* ' wttting his Hand in Water, , that il may not stick to his Hand, squeezes it into a ' lump, as hard as possibly he can make it, and then crams it into his Mouth. They a41 strive to make these lumps as big as their Mouth can receive them ; and seem to vie with each other, and glory in taking in the biggest lump ; •o that sometimes they almost choak themselves. They always wash after Meals, or if they touch any thing that is unclean; for which reason they spend abundance of Water tn their Houses. This Water, with the washing tif their Dishes, and what other filth they make, they pour down near their Kire-placc: for their Chambers are not hoarded, but floored with split Bamboes, like Laths, so that the Water presently falls underneath their dwelling Rooms, where it breeds Maggots, and makes a prodigious wink. Besides this filthiness, the sick People ease them- selves, and make Water in their Chambers ; there being a small hole made purposely in the floor, to let it drop through. But healthy sound People commonly ease them- ■elreSi, and make Water in the River. For that reason you shall always see abundance of People, of both Sexes in the River, from Morning till Night ; some easing themselves, others washing their bodies or Cloaths. If they come into the River purposely to wash their Cloaths, ihcy strip and stand naked till they have done ; then put them on, and march out again : both Men and Women take grot delight in swimming, and washing themselves, being bred ro it from their Infancy. I do believe it is very wholsom to wash Mornings and Evenings in these hot Countries, at least three or four days in the Week : Foe [ did use my self to it when 1 lived afterwards at Bcn-cooly, and found it very refreshing and comfortable. It is verj- good for those that have Fluxes to wash and ttand in the River Mornings and Kvcnings. I speak it experimentally ; for I was brought very low with that disteniper at Achin ; but by washing constantly Mornings and Evenings I found great benefit, and was quickly cured by it. I In the City of Mindanao they speak two Languages ^TOL. 337 ^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. indifferently ; their own Mindanao Language, and the 1686 Malaya : but in other parts of the Island they speak only their proper Language, having little Commerce abroad. They have Schools, and instruct the Children to Read and Write, and bring them up in the Mahometan Religion. Therefore many of the words, especially their Prayers, are in Arabick; and many of the words of civility the same as in Turkey; and especially when they meet in the Morning, or take leave of each other, they express them- selves in that Language. Many of the old People, both Men and Women, can speak Spanish, for the Spaniards were formerly settled among them, and had several Forts on this Island; and then they sent two Friars to the City, to convert the Sultan of Mindanao and his People. At that time these People began to learn Spanish, and the Spaniards incroached on them and endeavoured to bring them into subjection ; and probably before this time had brought them all under their yoak, if they themselves had not been drawn off from this Island to Manila, to resist the Chinese,^ who threatened to invade them there. When the Spaniards were gone, the old Sultan of Mindanao, Father to the present, in whose time it was, razed and demolished their Forts, brought away their Guns, and sent away the Friars ; and since that time will not suffer the Spaniards to settle on the Islands. They are now most afraid of the Dutch, being sensible how they have inslaved many of the Neighbouring Islands. For that Reason they have a long time desired the English ^ In the years 1603, 1639, and 1660. The first dread of a Chinese invasion appears to have been without more solid foundation than the visit of two gorgeously dressed Ambassadors from the Emperor of China to the Spanish Governor-General at Manila. After the Ambassadors had returned to China, the Spanish authorities prepared for a Chinese invasion. The many Chinese merchants at Manila were so cruelly harassed during the panic that they were at last driven to take arms in self-defence. They attacked Manila "on the eve of St. Francis' Day," and set fire to several houses. On St. Francis' Day they destroyed a Spanish garrison, and invested Manila. The Spaniards soon rallied, and contrived to beat them from the walls. After this, the Chinese were massacred wherever they were found. It is said that 24,000 were put to death or imprisoned. Dampier probably alludes to the bloody struggle with the Chinese in 1660, when nearly every Chinese person on Luzon was barbarously massacred. 338 THEIR TRADES to settle among them, and have ofFered them any convenient Plicc to build a Fort in, as the General himself told us; ' giving this Reason, that they do not find the English so incroaching as the Dutch or Spanish. The Dutch are no less jealous of their admitting the English, for they are sensible what detriment it would be to them if the English thould settle here. There are but few Tradesmen at the Ciiy of Mindanao. The chicfcst Trades are Goldsmiths, Blacksmiths, and Carpenters. There are but two or three Goldsmiths ; these will work in Gold or Silver, and make any thing that you desire : but they have no Shop furnished with Ware ready made for Sale. Here arc several Blacksmiths who work very well, considering the Tools that they work with. Their Bellows arc much different from ours. They are made of a wooden Cylinder, the trunk of a Tree, about three Foot long, bored hollow like a Pump, and set upright on the ground, on which the Fire it self is made. Near the lower end there is a small hole, in the side of the Trunk next the Fire, made to receive a Pipe, through which the wind b driven to the Fire by a great bunch of fine Feathers fastned to one end of the Stick, which closing up the inside of the Cylinder, drives the Air out of the Cylinder through the Pipe; Two of these Trunks or Cylinders arc placed so nigh tc^cther, that a Man standing between them may work them both at once alternately, one with each Hand. They have neither Vice nor Anvil, but a great hard Stone or a piece of an old Gun, to hammer upon: yet they will perform their work, making both common Utensils and Iron works about Ships to admiration. They work altogether with Charcoal. Every Man almost is a Carpenter, for they can work with the Ax and Adds. Their Ax is but small, and so made that ihey can take it out of the Helve, and by turning it make an Adds of it. They have no Saws ; but when they make Plank, they split the Tree in iwo, and make a Plank of each part, plaining it with the Ax and Adds. This requires much pains, and takes up a great deal of time; but they work cheap, and the goodness of the Plank thus 339 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. hewed, which hath its grain preserv'd entire, makes amends 1686 £qj. ^heir cost and pains. They build good and serviceable Ships or Barks for the Sea, some for Trade, others for Pleasure ; and some Ships of War. Their trading Vessels they send chiefly to Manila. Thither they transport Bees-wax, which, I think, is the only Commodity, besides Gold that they vend there. The Inhabitants of the City of Mindanao get a great deal of Bees-wax themselves: but the greatest quantity they purchase is of the Mountaneers, from whom they also get the Gold which they send to Manila ; and with these they buy their Calicoes, Muslins, and China Silk. They send sometimes their Barks to Borneo and other Islands; but what they transport thither, or import from thence, I know not. The Dutch come hither in Sloops from Ternate and Tidore, and buy Rice, Bees-wax,^ and Tobacco : * for there is a great deal of Tobacco grows on this Island, more than in any Island or Country in the East-Indies, that I know of, Manila only excepted. It is an excellent sort of Tobacco ; but these People have not the Art of managing this Trade to their best advantage, as the Spaniards have at Manila. I do believe the Seeds were first brought hither from Manila by the Spaniards, and even thither, in all probability, from America : the difference between the Mindanao and Manila Tobacco is, that the Mindanao Tobacco is of a darker colour ; and the Leaf larger and grosser than the Manila Tobacco, being propagated or planted in a fatter Soil. The Manila Tobacco is of a bright yellow colour, of an in- different size, not strong, but pleasant to Smoak. The Spaniards at Manila are very curious about this Tobacco, having a peculiar way of making it up neatly in the Leaf. For they take two little Sticks, each about a Foot long, and flat, and placing the Stalks of the Tobacco Leaves in a row, 40 or 50 of them between the two Sticks, they bind them hard together, so that the Leaves hang dangling down. * Bees-wax is still exported from Mindanao. 2 Tobacco is said to have been introduced by Spanish missionaries from Mexico about the year 1590. The Mindanao tobacco crop is now very small, and of the worst possible quality. 340 THE LEPROSIE : bundles is sold for a Rial at Fort St. Georgi but you may have i o or 1 2 pound of Tobacco at Mindanao '^ for a Rial ; and the Tobacco is as good, or rather better [ban the Manila Tobacco, but they have not that vent for it as the Spaniards have. The Mindanao People arc much troubled with a sort of Leprotic,' the same as we observed at Guam. This Dis- temper runs with a dry Scurf all over their Bodies, and causcth great itching in those that have it. making them frequently scratch and scrub themselves, which raiseth the outer skin in small whitish flakes, like the scales of little Fish, when they are raised on end with a Knife. This maku their skin extraordinary rough, and in some you shall see broad white spots in several pans of their Body. I judge such have had it, but are cured ; for their skins were smooth, and 1 did not perceive them to scrub them- selves : yet I have Icamt from their own mouths that these spots were from this Distemper, Whether they use any means to cure themselves, or whether it goes away of it Mtf, I know not : but 1 did not perceive that they made any great matter of it, for they did never refrain any company for it ; none of our People caught it of them, for we were afraid of it, and kept off. They are sometimes troubled with the Small Pox, out their ordinary Distempers arc Fevers, Agues, Fluxes, with great jiains, and gripings in their Guts.* The Country affords a great many Drugs and Medicinal Herbs, whose Virtues are not unknown to tome of them that pretend to cure the Sick. The Mindanao Men have many Wives : but what Ceremonies arc used when they Marry 1 know not. There n commonly a great Feast made by the Bridegroom to entertain his Friends, and the most part of the Night is spent in Mirth. The Sulun is absolute in his Power over all his Subjects. ' Tin b iia( tbe Uuc kpn»y, but a perniciout tkm diicttc Oue la the lawTC CBttM of ceruiii kitub i>f iheil-Ath. It U a fotin of Hcrjm- Katr*« pounn tor a *n Gani, Canna, and Sarnat. It Miiielimci atudn ' iSBJMy CtoirfM CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. He is but a poor Prince ; for as I mentioned before, they 1686 \^^yQ but little Trade, and therefore cannot be rich. If the Sultan understands that any Man has Money, if it be but 20 Dollars, which is a great matter among them, he will send to borrow so much Money, pretending urgent occa- sions for it ; and they dare not deny him. Sometimes he will send to sell one thing or another that he hath to dispose of, to such whom he knows to have Money, and they must buy it, and give him his price ; and if afterwards he hath occasion for the same thing, he must have it if he sends for it. He is but a little Man, between 50 or 60 Years old, and by relation very good natured, but over- ruled by those about him. He has a Queen, and keeps about 29 Women, or Wives more, in whose company he spends most of his time. He has one Daughter by his Sultaness or Queen, and a great many Sons and Daughters by the rest. These walk about the Streets, and would be always begging things of us ; but it is reported, that the young Princess is kept in a Room, and never stirs out, and that she did never see any Man but her Father and Raja Laut her Uncle, being then about Fourteen Years Old. When the Sultan visits his Friends he is carried in a small Couch on four Mens shoulders, with eight or ten armed Men to guard him ; but he never goes far this way ; for the Country is very Woody, and they have but little Paths, which renders it the less commodious. When he takes his pleasure by Water, he carries some of his Wives along with him. The Proes that are built for this purpose, are large enough to entertain 50 or 60 Persons or more. The Hull is neatly built, with a round Head and Stern, and over the Hull there is a small slight House built with Bamboes ; the sides are made up with Split Bamboes, about four Foot high, with little Windows in them of the same, to open and shut at their pleasure. The roof is almost flat, neatly thatched with Palmeto Leaves. This House is divided into two or three small Partitions or Chambers, one particularly for himself. This is neatly Matted under- neath, and round the sides ; and there is a Carpit and Pillows for him to sleep on. The second Room is for his 342 THEIR PROES h like the former. The third is for i Servants, who tend them with Tobacco and Betel-Nut ; ' for thcjr arc always chewing or smoaking. The fore and after-parts of the Vessel are for the Mariners to sit and Row. Besides this, they have Outlayers, such as those I described at Guam ; only the Boats and Outlayers here are larger. These Boats are more round, lilcc the Half-Moon almost ; and the Bamboes or Outlayers that reach from the Boat are also crooked. Besides, the Boat is not flat on one side here, as at Guam; but hath a Belly and Outlayers on each ade : and whereas at Guam there is a little Boat fasten 'd to the Outlayers, that lies in the Water; the Beams or Bamboes here arc fasten'd traverse-wise to the Oatlsycrs on each side, and touch not the Water like Baits, but I, 3 or 4 Foot above the Water, and serve for the Barge Men to sit and Row and paddle on ; the inside of the Vessel, except only just afore and abaft, being taken up with the apartments for the Passengers. There run a-cross the Outlayers two tire of Beams for the Padlers to sit on, on each side the Vessel. The lower tire of these Beams is not above i Foot from the Water: so that upon any the least reeling of the Vessel, the Beams are dipt in the Water, and the Men that sit arc wet up to their Waste : their Feet seldom escaping the Water. And thus as all our Vessels arc Rowed from within, these are Paddled from without. The Sultan hath a Brother called Raja Laut, a brave Man. He is the second Man in the Kingdom. All Strangers that come hither to Trade must make their Address to htm, for all Sea Afl^airs belong to him. He Liccnseth Strangers to Import or Kxport any Commodity, and 'tis by his Permission that the Natives themselves arc sufferrd to Trade : Nay the very Fishermen must take a Permit from him : So that there is no Man can come into the River or go out but by his leave. He is two or three Years younger than the Sultan, and a Utile Man like him. He has eight Women, by some of whom he hath Issue. He hath only one Son, about twelve or fourteen Years old, who was Circumcised while we were there. His Eldest 343 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Son died a little before we came hither, for whom he was 1686 3^jij jj^ great heaviness. If he had lived a little longer he should have Married the Young Princess, but whether this second Son must have her I know not, for I did never hear any Discourse about it. Raja Laut is a very sharp Man ; he speaks and writes Spanish, which he learned in his Youth. He has by often conversing with Strangers, got a great sight into the Customs of other Nations, and by Spanish Books has some knowledge of Europe, He is General of the Mindanayans, and is accounted an expert Soldier and a very stout Man ; and the Women in their Dances, sing many Songs in his praise. The Sultan of Mindanao sometimes makes War with his Neighbours the Mountaneers or Alfoores. Their Weapons are Swords, Lances and sonie Hand-Cressets. The Cresset ^ is a small thing like a Baggonet, which they always wear in War or Peace, at Work or Play, from the greatest of them to the poorest, or the meanest Persons. They do never meet each other so as to have a pitcht Battle, but they build small Works or Forts of Timber, wherein they plant little Guns,* and lie in sight of each other 2 or 3 Months, skirmishing every Day in small Parties, and sometimes surprizing a Breast-work ; and what- ever side is like to be worsted, if they have no probability to escape by flight, they sell their lives as dear as they can ; for there is seldom any quarter given, but the Conqueror cuts and hacks his Enemies to pieces. The Religion of these People is Mahometanism, Friday is their Sabbath ; but I did never see any diflFerence that they make between this Day and any other Day, only the Sultan himself goes then to the Mosque twice. Raja Laut never goes to the Mosque, but prays at certain Hours, Eight or Ten times in a Day ; where-ever he is, he is very punctual to his Canonical Hours, and if he be aboard will 1 There are about half-a-dozen varieties of this "small thing like a baggonet." The most popular form is short, with a wavy blade. For war a heavier kind is used, with a weighted back and a cutting edge. This makes a terrible weapon at close quarters. 2 Very small brass guns suspended by withes from wooden crutches. 344 A GONG— CIRCUMCISION I? uhorc, on purpose to pray. For no Business nor aw.' I Company hinders him from ihis Duty. Whether he is at '* bome or abroad, in a House or m the Field, he leaves all bU &Dmpany, and goes about lOO Yards ofF, and there kncch down to his Devotion. He first kisses the Ground, then prays aloud, and divers times in his Prayers he kisses the Ground, and does the same when he leaves off. His Scrvmnts, and his Wives and Children talk and sing, or play how they please all the time, but himself is very Krious. The meaner sort of People have little Devotion : 1 did never sec any of them at their Prayers, or go into a Mosque. In the Sultan's Mosque there is a great Drum with but one Head called a Gong ; which is instead of a Clock. This Gong is beaten at 1 2 a Clock, at 3, 6, and 9 ; a Man being appointed for that Service. He has 2 Stick as big as a Man's Arm, with a great knob at the end, bigger than a Man's Fist, made with Cotton, bound fast with small Cords: with this he strikes the Gong as hard as he can, about 20 strokes; beginning to strike leisurely the first 5 or 6 strokes; then he strikes faster, and at last strikes as fast as he can ; and then he strikes again slower and slower so many mnre strokes : thus he rises and falls three times, and then leaves off till three Hours after. This is done Night and Day. They circumcise the Males at 11 or 1 2 Years of Age, or older; and many are circumcised at once. This Ceremony is performed with a great deal of Solemnity. There had been no Circumcision ft>r some Years before our being here ; and then there was one for Raja Laut's Son. Tbcy choose to have a general Circumcision when the Sultan, or General, or some other great Person hath a Son fit to be Orcumcised ; for with him a great many more arc Cu-cumciscd. There is notice given about 8 or 10 Days before for all Men to appear in Arms, and great preparation is made against the solemn Day. In the morning before the Boys are Circumcised, Presents are sent to the Father 01 the Child, that keeps the Feast ; which as I said before, ii either the Sulun, or some great Persoa : and about 10 or 345 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. II a Clock the Mahometan Priest does his Office. He 1686 takes hold of the fore-skin with two Sticks, and with a pair of Scissars snips it off. After this most of the Men, both in City and Country being in Arms before the House, begin to act as if they were ingaged with an Enemy, having such Arms as I described. Only one acts at a time, the rest make a great Ring of 2 or 300 Yards round about him. He that is to excercise comes into the Ring with a great shriek or two, and a horrid look ; then he fetches two or three large stately strides, and falls to work. He holds his broad Sword in one Hand, and his Lance in the other, and traverses his Ground, leaping from one side of the Ring to the other; and in a menacing posture and look, bids defiance to the Enemy, whom his fancy frames to him ; for there is nothing but Air to oppose him. Then he stamps and shakes his Head, and grinning with his Teeth makes many ruful Faces. Then he throws his Lance, and nimbly snatches out his Cresset, with which he hacks and hews the Air like a Mad man, often shrieking. At last, being almost tired with motion, he flies to the middle of the Ring, where he seems to have his Enemy at his Mercy, and with two or three blows cuts on the Ground as if he was cutting off his Enemy's Head. By this time he is all of a Sweat, and withdraws triumphantly out of the Ring, and presently another enters with the like shrieks and gestures. Thus they continue combating their imaginary Enemy all the rest of the Day ; towards the conclusion of which the richest Men act, and at last the General, and then the Sultan concludes this Ceremony : He and the General with some other great Men, are in Armor, but the rest have none. After this the Sultan returns home, accompanied with abundance of People, who wait on him there till they are dismist. But at the time when we were there, there was an after-game to be played ; for the General's Son being then Circumcised, the Sultan intended to give him a second visit in the Night, so they all waited to attend him thither. The General also provided to meet him in the best manner, and therefore desired Captain Swan with his Men to attend him. Accordingly Captain Swan ordered 346 A PROCESSION to get fwr Guns, and wait at the General's House til further Orders, So about 40 of us waited till Eight a Clock in the Evening : When the General with Captain Swan, and about 1000 Men, went to meet the Sultan, with abundance of Torches that made it as light as Day. The nunner of the march was thus: First of all there was a Pageant, and upon it two dancing Women gorgeously apparelled with Coronets on their Heads, full of glittering S|)angla, and Pendants of the same, hanging down over their Breast and Shoulders. These are Women bred up purposely for dancing : Their Feet and Legs are but little imployed, except Bomctimcs to turn round very gently ; but their Hands, Arms, Head and Body, are in continual motion, especially their Arms, which they turn and twist so Krangely, that you would think them to be made without Borus. Besides the two dancing Women, there were two old Women tn the Pageant, holding each a lighted Torch in ihcir Hands, close by the two dancing Women, by which %hi the glittering Spangles appeared very gloriously. Thii Pageant was carried by six lusty Men : Then came six or seTen Torches, lighting the General and Captain Swan, who marched side by side next, and we that attended Captain Swan followed close after, marching in order six and six abresi, with each Man his Gun on his Shoulder, and Torches on each side- After us came twelve of the General's Men with old Spanish Match-locks, marching four in a row. After them about forty Lances, and behind them as many with great Swords, marching all in order. After them came abundance only with Cressets by their $idc5. who marched up close without any order. When we came near the Sultan's House, the Sultan and his Men met oa, and we whcel'd off to let them pass. The Sultan had ihree Pageants went before him : in the first Pageant were ' >ur of his Sons, who were about 10 or 1 1 Years old. 1 hey had gotten abundance of small Stones, which they ■ijguishly threw about on the Peoples Heads. In the next were four young Maidens, Nieces to the Sultan, being his Sbtcn Daughters ; and in the 3d, there was three of the Sultan's Children, not above six Years old, '^^- ^ 347 The Sultan CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. himself followed next, being carried in his Couch, which 1686 ^^5 j^Q^ lij^g yQm- Indian Palankins, but open, and very little and ordinary. A multitude of People came after, without any order: but as soon as he was past by, the General, and Captain Swan, and all our Men closed in just behind the Sultan, and so all marched together to the General's House. We came thither between i o and 1 1 a Clock, where the biggest part of the Company were im- mediately dismist ; but the Sultan and his Children, and his Nieces, and some other Persons of Quality, entered the General's House. They were met at the head of the Stairs by the General's Women, who with a great deal of Respect conducted them into the House. Captain Swan, and we that were with him, followed after. It was not long before the General caused his dancing Women to enter the Room, and divert the Company with that pastime. I had forgot to tell you that they have none but vocal Musick here, by what I could learn, except only a row of a kind of Bells without Clappers, 1 6 in number, and their weight increasing gradually from about three to ten pound weight. These were set in a row on a Table in the General's House, where for seven or eight Days together before the Circumcision Day, they were struck each with a little Stick, for the biggest part of the Day making a great noise, and they ceased that Morning. So these dancing Women sung themselves, and danced to their own Musick. After this the General's Women, and the Sultan's Sons, and his Nieces danced. Two of the Sultan's Nieces were about 18 or 19 Years Old, the other two were three or four Years Younger. These Young Ladies were very richly drest, with loose Garments of Silk, and small Coronets on their Heads. They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever see there, and very well featured ; and their Noses, tho' but small, yet higher than the other Womens, and very well proportioned. When the Ladies had very well — diverted themselves and the Company with dancing, the General caused us to fire some Sky-rockets, that were made by his and Captain Swan's Order, purposely for this Nights Solemnity ; and after that the Sultan and his Retinue went 348 THE RAMDAM ■wiy wilh 1 few Attentiants, and we all broke up. and thus an, coded this Days Solemnity : but the Boys being sore with '^" ^ their Amputation, went straddling for a fortnight after. They arc not, as I said before, very curious, or strict in !»scrving any Days, or Times of particular Devotions, ' »ccpt it be Ramdam time, as wc call it. The Ramdani ■imc was then in August, as I take it, for it was shortly alter our arrival here. In this lime they fast all Day, and about Seven a Clock in the Evening they spend near an Hour in Prayer. Towards the tatter end of their Prayer, ihcy loudly invoke their Prophet, for about a quarter of an Hour, both old and young bawling out very strangely, as if they intended to fright him out of his sleepiness or neglect of them. After their Prayer is ended, they spend MMTie time in Feasting before they take their repose. Thus tbey do ever)' Day for a whole Month at least ; for some- times 'tis two cjT three Days longer before the Ramdam ends: For it begins at the New Moon, and lasts till they see the next New Moon, which sometimes in thick hazy Weather is not till three or four Days after the Change, as it happem'd while I was at Achin, where they continued the Ramdani till the New Moon's appearance. The next Day i/tcr ihey have seen the New Moon, the Guns are all dis- charged about Noon, and then the time ends. A main part of their Religion consists in washing often, ^1 keep themselves from being defiled ; or after they are icfilcd to clcanic themselves again. They also take great care to keep themselves from being polluted, by tasting or touching any thing that is accounted Unclean ; therefore Swine* Flesh is verv abominable to them ; nay, any one that hath cither lasted of Swines flesh, or touched those Creatures, is not permitted to come into their Houses in many Days after, and there is nothing will scare them more than a Swine. Yet there are wild Hogs in the Islands, and those lo plentiful, that they will come in Troops out of the Woodi in the Night into the very City, and come under their Houses, to romage up and down the Filth that they find there. The Natives therefore would even desire us to lie in wait for the Hogs, to destroy thera, which we did 349 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. frcQuently, by shooting them and aurying them {MTsently '^^ on board, but were prohibited their Houses afterwards. And now I am on this Subject, I cannot omit a Story concerning the General. . He once desired to have a pair oif Shoes made after the English Fashion, tho* he did very seldom wear any: So one of our Men made him a Piur, which the General liked very well. Afterwards soot Body told him. That the Thread wherewith the Shoes were sowed, were pointed with Hogs-bristles. This put him into a great Passion ; so he sent the Shoes to the Mm that made them, and sent him withal more Leather to make another Pair, with Threads pointed with some other Hair, which was immediately done, and then lie was well pleased. 350 CHAP. XIII Tluir etmtng attng th tilt sf MimtUnuta, fnm « Bmy m th* E^a-nde U «»•/*«■ It th S. E. mJ. T*riiaJm mnd Utttrmi Ifrathtr. The S. E. Ctait, anJ iti Savammik and pUntj if Deer. They Cmitt mkmg the Stuth-uJe t» tht Rmr »/ MindamM City, amd rnmchtr thtrt. The Suban'f Brtther and Sm ctme mltard thorn, md imviU them » lettU there. Of the Feoailnm end pnhMe Ad%Mm- Ug* (/'urA a Settlement^ frtm the Nei^hmrmg G*U Mmd Spiee tiitMdi. Of tht ifit way tt Mixdanat ky tht Smth Sea *md Terra JmtraSi ; aiid »f art acddental Diutvery thtrt by Caftaim Dovi'i, Mmd c prtimHSty $f a grfater, Tht Cafatity they were im U utile here. Tht M'tdanayeim mtaimrt their Ship, Caftain Swam't Preitmt It the SiUtam : hii R/ceptint tf it, and Amdientt pven tt Captain Swam, vjilh Raja Lamt, tht Snbamt Brtther'i Emtertaim- mtmt if him. The Ctntenti if tw* Emgliih Ltttert ihevnt them ky the Su/lam tf Minda»at. Of the Ctmmtditiei, and the Ptauih- Memti there. The Generari Catoiim h*w t* detntm thtmufvn, at hit Ptnuaiin they lay uf their Shipt ht tht River. Tht Min- danmieni Carrtiet. The great Raimt and Fltadt at the City, Tht Mindanaiam have Chinttt dcenmptanti. Hitv their U^imen dame, i 0^ ^ mt 3 Am Thmtktr. Their Bart eaten ap, and their Ship imdangrr'd hy tht tVtrm. Of tht ff^tmu here and ebewhere. Of Captain Swan. Raja Lam, the Generaft Deeeilfitheu, Hunting u.-iU Kime. Tht Pridign/ity tf >tme if the EngHA. Captain Swan trtmtt with a I'tmng Indian if a Spice-liland, A Huntimg fty^p tvith tht GtntroL Hit pmmiihimg a Servant tf hit. Of Att Vnwi and ffimtn. A wn if ttrmg Rut-drini. Tht J Gemtrafi fmt Diabng and Eaaetiant. Captain SiLan'i Vmtau^ \ ■ni and inditirtei .Hanagtment. Hit Mem Mntiwy. Of n fnatt 35 » 1 THE BAY OF DEER I to have been our selves. We aschared «m ike Sok^ Woe ! of the Bay, in fifteen fuboai Wattc, jth from the shore. Here we w mr selves from the violence of dK W listerouswith Rains, and TomiiQe^ amd > ipgag We^eri^ had, that we were very glad CO bid dw f^fOtwrnAmAm L. being the only shelter on this «de Aom^c Wot Wii^ This Bay is not above two ftfik «ide al At MamA, im ■her in it h three Leagues wide, tad acfcs 6AiB ittf, ning in N. N. W. There k ■ good dcfA ^ V^flv «t four or five Leagues in, but Rocfef ml Gfoaad fiir ut two Leagues in, from the mooih ughts freely, I believe 'tis owing to the neglect of this easie way that all that vast tract of Terra Australis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiscovered: those that cross that Sea seeming to design some Business on the Peruvian or Mexican Coast, and so leaving that at a distance. To confirm which, I shall add what Captain Davis told me lately. That after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ro Lcjo (as is meniioned in the 8th Chap.) he went after several Traverses, to the Gallapagoes, and that standing (bcncc Southward for Wind, to bring him about Terra del Fuego, in the Lat. of 27 South, about joo leagues from Copanpo, on the Cout of Chili, he saw a small sandy IsUnd just by him; and that they saw to the Westward of it a long Tract of pretty high Land,' tending away toward the North West out of sight. This might probably be the Coast of Terra Australis Incognita. But to return to Mindanao; as to the Capacity we were then in, of sctiling our selves at Mindanao, although we were not sent out of any such design of settling, yet we were as well provided, cm- better, considering all circum- tooces. than if we had. For there was scarce any useful Trade, but some or other of us undcr5to' kindly acoemed by the Sultan, who caused Mr. More to sit down by tnem, and asked a great many questions of him. The (^course was in Spanish by a Interpreter. This con- fiavDCe Isstcd about an hour, and then he was dismist, of tbe Lonijon |[old«inilh albre' 359 I CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. and returned again to Raja Laut's House. There was a 1686 Supper provided for him, and the Boats crew ; after wWch he returned aboard. The next day the Sultan sent for Capt. Swan: He immediately went ashore with a Flag flying in the Boats head, and two Trumpets sounding all the way. When he came ashore, he was met at his Landing by two prindpal Officers, guarded along with Soldiers and abundance of People gazing to see him. The Sultan waited for him in his Chamber of Audience, where Captain Swan was treated with Tobacco and Betel, which was all his Entertainment. The Sultan sent for two English Letters fc»- Captain Swan to read, purposely to let him know, that our East- India Merchants did design to settle here, and that they had already sent a Ship hither. One of these Letters was sent to the Sultan from England, by the East-India Merchants. The chiefest things contained in it, as I remember, for I saw it afterwards in the Secretaries hand, who was very proud to show it to us, was to desire some priviledges, in order to the building of a Fort there. Thb Letter was written in a very fair Hand ; and between each Line, there was a Gold Line drawn. The other Letter was left by Captain GooJIud, directed to any English-men who should happen to come thither. This related wholly to Trade, giving an account, at what rate he had agreed with them for Goods of the Island, and how European Goods should be sold to them ; with an account of their Weight and Measures, and their difference from ours. The Rate agreed on for Mindanao Gold, was 14 Spanish Dollars, (which is a current Coin all over India) the English Ounce, and 18 Dollars the Mindanao Ounce. But for Bees- wax and Clove-bark, I do not remember the Rate, neither do I well remember the Rates of Europe Commodities ; but I think the Rate of Iron was not above 4 Dollars a Hundred. Captain Goodlud's Letter concluded thus. Trust none of them^ for they art all T/iieveSy but Tace is Latin for a Candle. We under- stood afterwards that Captain Goodlud was robb'd of some Goods by one of the General's Men, and that he 360 j A MINDANAIAN PUNISHMENT that robb'd him wu fled into the Mountains, ind coold j Dot be found while Captain Goodlud was here. But the " Fellow returning back to the City some time after oor arrinl here. Raja Laut bruught him bound to Captain Swan, and told him what he had done, desiring him to punish him for il as he pleased ; but Captain Swan excused himself, and said it did not belong to him, therefore fae wuuld have nothing to do with it. However, the General Raja Laut, would not pardon htm, but punished him according to their own Custom, which 1 did nerer see but at thb time. He was stript stark naked in the Morning at Son- ruing, and bound to a Post, so that be could not stir Hand nor Foot, but as he was mov'd ; and was placed with his Face Eastward against the Sun. In the Afternoon they tum'd his Face towards the West, that the Sun might still be in his Face; and thus he stood all Day, parcfai in the Sun (which shines here excessively hot) and tormented with the Moskiio's or Knata: After this the General would have killed him, if Captain Swan had consented to it. 1 did never sec any put to Death ; but I believe they arc barbarous enough in it. The General told us himself that he put two Men to Death in a Town where some of us Were with him ; but I heard not the manner of it. Their common way of punishing is to strip them in this m«nncr, and place them in the Sun ; but sometimes they lay them flat on their Backs on the Sand, which is very hot ; where they rctnain ■ whole Day in the scorching Sun, with the Moskito's biting them all the time. This Action of the General in offering Captain Swan the Punishment of the Thief, caus'd Captain Swan after- wards to make him the same offer of his Men, when iny had (jffcndcd the Mindanao Men : but the General left ^uch Offenders to be punished by Captain Swan, as he hfrughi convenient. So that for the least Offence Captain >wan punished hta Men, and that tn the sight of the Mindanaians; and I think sometimes only fur revenge; as he did once punish his chief Male Mr. Teat, he that . .Mac Captain of the Bark to Mindanao. Indeed at that CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. time Gtptain Swan had his Men as much under command 1686 23 jf {^^ ))2^ \y^^^ in 2. King's Ship : and had he known hour to use his Authority, he might have led them to any Settle- menty and have brought them to assist him in any desgn he had pleased. Gtptain Swan being dismissed from the Sultan, with abundance of Civility, after about two Hours Discourse with him, went thence to Raja Laut's House. Raja Liut had then some Difference with the Sultan, and therefore he was not present at the Sultan*s Reception of our Captun; but waited his return, and treated him and all his Men with boyled Rice and Fowls. He then told Gtptain Swan again, and urged it to him, that it would be best to get his Slup into the River as soon as he could, because of the usuil tempestuous Weather at this time of the Year ; and that he should want no assistance to further him in any thing. He told him also, that as we must of necessity stay hot some time, so our Men would often come ashore; and he therefore desired him to warn his Men to be carefiil to give no affront to the Natives ; who, he said, were very revengeful. That their Customs being different from ours, he feared that Captain Swan's Men might some time or other offend them, though ignorantly ; that therefore he gave him this friendly warning, to prevent it ; That his House should always be open to receive him or any of his Men, and that he knowing our Customs, would never be offended at any thing. After a great deal of such Dis- course he dismist the Captain and his Company, who took their leave and came aboard. Captain Swan having seen the two Letters, did not doubt but that the English did design to settle a Factory here : therefore he did not much scruple the honesty of these People, but immediately ordered us to get the Ship into the River. The River upon which the Gtyof Mindanao stands is but small, and hath not above 10 or H foot Water on the Bar at a Spring-tide : Therefore ^ lightened our Ship, and the Spring coming on, we with much ado got her into the River, being assisted by 5^ or 60 Mindanaian Fishermen, who livM at the mouth rf 362 THE NATIVES CARESS THEM ivcr ; Rajs Liut himself bdag abowd our Si direct them. We carried her sboat a qnincr c£ i np, within the mouth of the Rirer, ud there moand bcr, head and stem m a bole, where wc alwsfs nde afloat. After this the Cttzens of Minda n ao tame iire- quently aboard, to invite oar Men to their Howks, sad to offer us Pig»Hics. *Twxs a kog tine noe amf of m hmd received soch Frieodship, and t h a tSat. wc woe the more easily drawn to aeoepc of ihdr kmdacaKs; in a very thort time most of oar Mea got * C or two. and as aanj Pigal&a; npmiUy tmik «f m s had good Qothes, and store of Gold, as mamj had, vW wen of the number of those that aceemfamei G«bb Harris over the Isthmus of Dviea, tke fcsc of fli feaig poor enough. Nay, the very poorca sad mc* cf ■• ooold bar^y pass the Stre et s, bat wr warn mm IttTd hf Force into their Hooses, to be trested hf tk^: skk^ their Treats were but mean, viz. TokKBo^ or P or a little sweet speed Water. Tct dKsr SBcaHK^SiMt Simplicity, and the manner of b LSCo w ia g thKK GUa, s tbem very accepabk. When wc case to ikv Hshe% they woukl always be pratsBg tbe Fa^liifc. as AoiHHC that tbe Engltsfa and Mi a di i Misa a woe al ' they exprcst by pcoxuig Aar two together, and sayii^ that the Ea^db aad wcR Sawn, stmt, that b, all ooc Thea A^ wmU Aaw their fore-fingers half a foot i ' ^ _ . and they were Ba^m, irtadh i tt such distance ia poaK of Spaniardf, they woold sake s soKr distance than fv the Doi^: ^av^ ikae, felt, and smarted from the SpSMadi^ wfco had „ brought them tmder. ^L Optain Swan did addaa f» i ^hat into Raja Laat's. Then br Hoay ; and as many of lii Mea as ■ no Money to '■^^"rt the^aelta^ II a Clock, when thqr hsd RSbb a ^ , ^ drett.aad sooie na^«f Fbwfa. v h* ^ Bai^ftK <>««» J«3 i CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. very nastily. Captain Swan was served a little better, and '^^^ his two Trumpeters sounded all the time that he was at dinner. After dinner Raja Laut would sit and discourse with him most part of the Afternoon. It was now the Ramdam time, therefore the General excused himself, that he could not entertain our Captain with Dances, and other Pastimes, as he intended to do when this solemn Time was past ; besides, it was the very heighth of the wet Season, and therefore not so proper for Pastimes. We had now very tempestuous Weather, and excessive Rains, which so swelfd the River, that it overflowed its Banks ; so that we had much ado to keep our Ship safe : For every now and then we should have a great Tree come floating down the River, and sometimes lodge against our Bows, to the endangering the breaking our Cables, and either the driving us in, over the Banks, or carrying us out to Sea ; both which would have been very dangerous to us, especially being without Ballast. The City is about a Mile long (of no great breadth) winding with the Banks of the River on the right Hand going up, the* it hath many Houses on the other Side too. But at this time it seemed to stand as in a Pond, and there was no passing from one House to another but in Canoas. This tempestuous rainy Weather happened the latter end of July, and lasted most part of August. When the bad Weather was a little asswaged. Captain Swan hired a House to put our Sails and Goods in, while we careen'd our Ship. We had a great deal of Iron and Lead, which was brought ashore into this House. Of these Commodities Captain Swan sold to the Sultan or General, 8 or lo Tuns, at the Rates agreed on by Captain Goodlud, to be paid in Rice. The Mindanaians are no good Accomptants ; therefore the Chinese that live here, do cast up their Accompts for them. After this. Captain Swan bought Timber-trees of the General, and set some of our Men to saw them into Planks, to sheath the Ship's bottom. He had two Whip-Saws on Board, which he brought out of England, and four or five Men that knew the use of them, for they had been Sawyers in Jamaica. 364 A STORY OF JOHN THACKER When the Rundam tune «w over, nd tkc Arw i ■et in X little, the GenenU to ti bi a e . Oq^aim Smam, a uined him every N%ht with DkaccL TW diadi that are purposely bred up to tt, and ^oke k ch 1 have already dacrihed. Bm beside ikai aH ike W^mtm in general are moch addicted to TliWM^ Thcf Aibk 4.0 or 50 at oQce ; and that Hindw i g all nmaJk m * ^t^ joined Hand in Hand, and Sogiig «d ketigmf ubc But they never bodge oot of tho- pfaos, mtm Bike ^tf mocion till the Chcros is Soag; nea afl m okt tkey dirow out one Leg. and bawl aat aload; aad mmBOmet they only clap t h e i r Hands wh^ the Cks^ is Shk> Captain Swan, to retaliate the GeaenTs Favoofs. atal w- i hb Violins, and lome that cooU daace Fa^Jii* Dncea; wherewith the General was vaj wcfl pfcwirj The^ coRunotily spent the biggest pan of the tS^tt m theM I sort of Pastimes. Among the rest of our Mca tfaat did ^k to daace dai before the General, there was one }oha Thacfca; who ^b a Sounan bred, and could neitber Write dot Bead: hat had fonnerly learnt to Dance in the MvmA-hama aboac Wspping : This Man came into the Sonth Seat with 1 Captain Harris, and gettiif wkfa huB a good QoMtitf of Gctld, and being a pretty good Hadaad ti has SkaM; had ftill some left, besides what be bid out ia a vcxy good wmt I of Qoathf. The Geoeial fupposed by his Giih aad has Dancing, that he had been of aoble Excraasoa ; aad CO be Mtisfy'd of his fjoality, asked of one of ov Mo, if he did not gucis aright of htm ? The Maa of whom the Gcaoml asked this Question told him, be was aach ia the ri^> ; and that most of our Ship's Company woe df the &fcc Extraction ; especially all those that had &ne Ooa^; aad that they came aboari only to ice the WorU, haviag Money enough to bear their E x p e a ces whoc-cver chey came; but that for the rest, those that had but mean Clothes, they Were only common S ea m e n . Alter this, the GcDcral shew'd a great deal of Respect to all that had good Oothcs, but especially to John Thacker, till Captain Swia kcame to know the Bunne», aad marr'd all ; aadccemag J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the General, and drubbing the Nobleman : For he was ^^^^ so much incensed against John Thacker, that he could never endure him afterwards ; tho' the poor Fellow knew nothing of the Matter. About the middle of November we began to work on our Ship's Bottom, which we found very much eaten with the Worm : For this is a horrid place for Worms. We did not know this till after we had been in the River a Month ; and then we found our Canoas Bottoms eaten like Honey-combs ; our Bark, which was a single Bottom, was eaten thro' ; so that she could not swim. But our Ship was sheathed,^ and the Worm came no further than the Hair between the sheathing Plank, and the main Plank. We did not mistrust the General's Knavery 'till now : for when he came down to our Ship, and found us ripping ofF the sheathing Plank, and saw the firm Bottom underneath, he shook his Head, and seemed to be discontented ; saying, he did never see a Ship with two Bottoms before. We were told that in this place, where we now lay, a Dutch Ship was eaten up in 2 Months time, and the General had all her Guns ; and it is probable he did expect to have had ours : Which I do believe was the main Reason that made him so forward in assisting us to get our Ship into the River, for when we came out again we had no Assistance from him. We had no Worms till we came to this place : For when we carcen'd at the Marias, the Worm had not touch'd us ; nor at Guam, for there we scrubb'd ; nor after we came to the Island Mindanao ; for at the S. E. end of the Island we heel'd and scrubb'd also. The Min- danaians are so sensible of these destructive Insects, that whenever they come from Sea, they immediately hale their Ship into a dry Dock, and burn her bottom, and there let her lye dry till they are ready to go to Sea again. The Canoas or Proes they hale up dry, and never suffer them to * Before the introduction of copper-sheathing at the end of the eighteenth century, ships were sheathed with thin fir deals. The bottoms so sheathed were first treated with preparations of tar and hair, or, in some cases, with felt, or tar and ground glass. Leaden plates seem to have been used occasionally. The worm is "a very good worm" for getting through oak and elm. It is called Teredo navalis, 366 ^^H SHIP WORMS I 0^0^ in the Water. It is reported that those Worms an. ] which get into a Ships bottom in the salt Water, will dye in '^** 1 the fresh Water; and that the fresh water Worms will dye ' in salt Water: but in brackish Water both sorts will in- crease prodigiously. Now this place where we lay was lometimcs brackish Water, yet commonly fresh ; but what sort of Worm this was I know not. Some Men are of Opinion, that these Worms breed in the Plank ; but I am I perswaded they breed in the Sea : For I have seen Millions ' of them swimming in the Water particularly in the Bay of E^ama ; for there Captain Davis, Captain Swan and my letf. and most of our Men, did take notice of them divers times, which was the reason of our Cleaning so often while we were there: and these were the largest Worms that I did ever sec, I have also seen them in Virginia, and in the Bay of Campcachy ; in the latter of which places the Worms eat prodigiously. They are always in Bays, Creeks, j Mouths of Rivers, and such places as are near the shore ; beang never found far out at Sea, that I could ever learn ; yet a Ship will bring them lodg'd in its Plank for a great way. Having thus ript off all our Worm-eaten Plank, and J ebpt on new, by the beginning of December 1686, our I Ship's bottom was sheathed and tallowed, and the 10th day I we went over the Bar and took aboard the Iron and Lead I that we could not sell, and began to fill our Water, and I fetch aboard Rice for our Voyage : but C, Swan remain'd I ashore still, and was not yet determin'd when to sail, or I whither. But I am well assured that he did never intend I to cruize about Manila, as his Crew designed ; for I did 1 once ask him, and he told me, That what he had already done of that kind he was forc'd to ; but now being at Liberty, he would never more engage in any such Design : For, aaid he. there is no Prince on Earth is able to wipe off the Stain of such Actions. What other Designs he had 1 know not, for he was commonly very cross; yet he did never propose doing any thing else, but only ordered the Provision to be got aboard in order to sail ; and I am cooSdent if he had made a motion to go to any English 367 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Factory, most of his Men would have consented to it, tho' 1686 probably some would have still opposed it. However, his Authority might soon have over-swayed those that were refractory ; for it was very strange to see the Awe that these Men were in of him, for he punished the most stubborn and daring of his Men. Yet when we had brought the Ship out into the Road, they were not altogether so submissive as while it lay in the River, tho' even then it was that he punished Captain Teat. I was at that time a hunting with the General for Beef, which he had a long time promised us. But now I saw that there was no Credit to be given to his Word ; for I was a Week out with him and saw but four Cows, which were so wild, that we did not get one. There were five or six more of our Company with me; these who were young Men, and had Dalilah's there, which made them fond of the Place, all agreed with the General to tell Captain Swan that there were Beeves enough only they were wild. But I told him the Truth, and advised him not to be too credulous of the General's Promises. He seemed to be very angry, and stormed behind the General's Back, but in his Presence was very mute, being a man of small Courage. It was about the 2oth Day of December when we returned from hunting, and the General designed to go again to another place to hunt for Beef; but he stayed till after Christmas-day, because some of us designed to go with him ; and Captain Swan had desired all his Men to be aboard that Day, that we might keep it solemnly together : And accordingly he sent aboard a Buflfaloe the Day before, that we might have a good dinner. So the 25 th Day about 10 a Clock, Captain Swan came aboard, and all his Men who were ashore : For you must under- stand that near a third of our Men lived constantly ashore, with their Comrades and Pagallies, and some with Women- Servants, whom they hired of their Masters for Concubines. Some of our Men also had Houses, which they hired or bought, for Houses are very cheap, for 5 or 6 Dollars. For many of them having more money than they knew 368 PRODIGALITY OF ENGLISH SEAMEN whit to (to with, cased themselves here of the trouble ak. of telling it, tpending it very lavishly, their Prodigality •*** Rukine the people impose upon them, to the making the rest of us pay the dearer for what we bought, and to the endangering the like Impositions upon such Englishmen as may come here hereafter. Kor the Mindanayans knew how to get our Squires Gold from them (for we had no Silver,) and when our Men wanted Silver, they would change now and then an Ounce of Gold, and could get for it no more than ten or eleven Dollars for a Mindanao Ounce, which tbcy would not part with again under eighteen Dollars. Yet this, and the great Prices the Mindanayans set on their Goods, were nm the only way to lessen their Stocks ; for ibeir Ftgallies and Comrades would often be begging •omewhat of them, and our Men were generous enough, and would bestow half an Ounce of Gold at a time, in a Ring for their Pagallics, or in a Silver Wrist-band, or Hoop to come about their Arms, in hopes to get a nights Lodging with them. When wc were all aboard nn Christmas-day, Captain Swan ind his two Merchants; 1 did expect that Captain Swan would have made some proposals, or have told us his designs; but he only dined and went ashore again, without speaking any thing of his mind. Yet even then I Jo think that he was driving on a design of going to one ■f the Spice Islands, to load with Spice; for the young Man before mentioned, who I said was sent by his Unkle, the Sultan of a Spice Island near I'ernate, to invite the English to their Island, came aboard at this time, and after some private discourse with Captain Swan, they both went •shore tt^ethcr. This young Man did not care that the Mtndanaians should be privy to what he said. I have heard Capuin Swan say that he oflfcrcd to load his Ship with Spice, provided he would build a sniall Fort, and leave some Men to secure the Island from the Dutch ; but 1 am since informed, that the Dutch have now got pcweMton of the Island. TTie next day after Christmas, the General went away a gain, and $ or 6 Englishmen with him, of whom I ^K VOL. 369 A ^^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. was one, under pretence of going a hunting ; and we all 1686 ^gj^^ together by Water in his Proe, together with his Women and Servants, to the hunting place. The General always carried his Wives and Children, his Servants, his Money and Goods with him : so we all imbarked in the Morning, and arrived there before Night. I have already described the fashion of their Proes, and the Rooms made in them. We were entertained in the Generals Room or Cabbin. Our Voyage was not so far, but that we reached our Port before Night. At this time one of the General's Servants had offended, and was punished in this manner : He was bound fast flat on his Belly, on a Bambou belonging to the Prow, which was so near the Water, that by the Vessel's motion, it frequently delved under Water, and the Man along with it ; and sometimes when hoisted up, he had scarce time to blow before he would be carried under Water again. When we had rowed about two Leagues, we entred a pretty large deep River, and rowed up a League further, the Water salt all the way. There was a pretty large Village, the Houses built after the Country fashion. We landed at this place, where there was a House made ready immediately for us. The General and his Women lay at one end of the House, and we at the other end, and in the Evening all the Women in the Village danced before the General. While we staid here, the General with his Men went out every Morning betimes, and did not return till four or five a Clock in the Afternoon, and he would often complement us, by telling us what good Trust and Con- fidence he had in us, saying that he left his Women and Goods under our Protection, and that he thought them as secure with us six (for we had all our Arms with us) as if he had left 100 of his own Men to guard them. Yet for all this great Confidence, he always left one of his principal Men, for fear some of us should be too familiar with his Women. They did never stir out of their own Room when the General was at Home, but as soon as he was gone out, 370 I THE GENERAL'S SERAGLIO they would presently come into our Room, and sit with us all Day, and ask a Thousand Questions of us concern- it^ our English Women, and our Customs. You may imagine that before this time, some of us had attained so much of their Language as to understand them, and give them Answers to their Demands. I remember that one day ihcy asked how many Wives the King of England had? Wc told them but one, and that our English Laws did not allow of any more. Thev said it was a strange Custom, that a Man should be confined to one Woman ; some of tbem said it was a very bad Law, but others again said it was a good Law ; so there was a great Impute among them about it. But one of the General's Women said positively. That our Law was better than theirs, and made them all silent by the Keason which she gave for it. This was the War Queen, aa we called her, for she did always accompany the General when ever he was called out to engage his Enemies, but the rest did not. By this Familiarity among the Women, and by often discoursing them, we came to be acquainted with their Cusioms and Privilcdges. The Geocral lies with his Wives by turns; but she by whom he had the first Son, has a double Portion of his Company : For when it comes to her turn, she has him two Nights, whereas the rest have him but one. She with whom he is to lye at Night, seems to have a particular Respect shown her by the rest all the precedent day ; and for a Mark of distinction, wears a striped «lk Handkerchief about her Neck, by which we knew who was Queen that day. We lay here about 5 or 6 Days, but did never in all that time sec the least sign of any Beef, which was the Busincn wc came about ; neither were we suffered to go out with the General to see the wild Kinc, but wc wanted for nothing else: However, this did not please us, and we often importuned him to let us go out among the Cattle. At last he told us. That he had provided a Jar of Rice-drink to be merry with us, and after that we should go with htm. Thb Rice-drink is made of Rice boiled and put into 371 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. a Jar, where it remains a long time steeping in Water. 1687 J i^now not the manner of making it, but it is very strong pleasant Drink. The Evening when the General designed to be merry, he caused a Jar of this Drink to be brought into our Room, and he began to drink first himself, then afterwards his Men; so they took turns till they were all as drunk as Swine, before they suffered us to drink. After they had enough, then we drank, and they drank no more, for they will not drink after us. The General leapt about our Room a little while ; but having his Load soon went to sleep. The next Day we went out with the General into the Savannah, where he had near 100 Men making of a large Pen to drive the Cattle into. For that is the manner of their Hunting, having no Dogs. But I saw not above eight or ten Cows, and those as wild as Deer, so that we got none this Day : yet the next Day some of his Men brought in three Heifers, which they kill'd in the Savannah. With these we return'd aboard, they being all that we got there. Captain Swan was much vex'd at the General's Actions ; for he promised to supply us with as much Beef as we should want, but now either could not, or would not make good his Promise. Besides, he failed to perform his Promise in a Bargain of Rice, that we were to have for the Iron which we sold him, but he put us off still from time to time, and would not come to any Account. Neither were these all his Tricks; for a little before his Son was Circumcised, (of which I spake in the foregoing Chapter) he pretended a great streight for Money, to defray the Charges of that Day ; and therefore desired Captain Swan to lend him about twenty Ounces of Gold ; for he knew that Captain Swan had a considerable quantity of Gold in his possession, which the General thought was his own, but indeed had none but what belonged to the Merchants. However he lent it the General ; but when he came to an account with Captain Swan, he told him, that it was usual at such solemn times to make Presents, and that he received it as a Gift. He also demanded Payment for the Victuals that our Captain and his Men DISORDERS AMONG THE SHIP'S CREW did eat at his House. These things startled Captain ak Swan, yet how to help himself he knew not. But all '^^ this, with other inward Troubles, lay hard on our Captain's Spirits, and put him very much out of Humour ; for his own Company were pressing him every Day to be gone, because now was the hcighth of the Easterly Monsoon, the only Wind to carry us farther into the Indies. About this time sonic of our Men, who were weary and tired with wandring, ran away into the Country and absconded, they being assisted, as was generally believed by Raja Laut. There were others also, who fearing we should not go to an English Fort, bought a Canoa, and designed to go in her to Borneo ' : For not long before the Mindanao Vessel came from thence, and brought a Letter directed to the chief of the English Factory at Mindanao. This Letter the General would have Captain Swan have opened, but he thought it might come from some of the East-India Merchants whose Affairs he would n 1 L.MI CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Circumference ; our Ship rode about a Mile from it. This >687 Island was the Habitation of an incredible number of great Batts,^ with Bodies as big as Ducks, or large Fowl, and with vast Wings : For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort, and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length, could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 Foot from tip to tip ; for it iws much more than any of us could fathom with our Amu extended to the utmost. The Wings are for Substance like those of other Batts, of a Dun or Mouse colour. TIk Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it, ind draws up in 3 or 4 Folds, and at the joints of those Rib and the extremities of the Wings, there are sharp and crooked Claws, by which they may hang on any thing. In the Evening as soon as the Sun was set, these Creaturs would begin to take their flight from this Island, in swanm like Bees, directing their flight over to the Main Island; and whither afterwards I know not. Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till Night hindred our »ght; and in the Morning as soon as it was light, we should see them returning again like a Cloud, to the small Island; till Sun rising. This Course they kept constantly wMk we lay here, affording us every Morning and Evening an Hour's Diversion in gazing at them, and talking about them ; but our Curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them, our selves and Canoas being all the daf time taken up in business" about our Ship. At thb Ue also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee, but no Fish. Westay'd here till the loth of February, 1687 ; andtbcD having compleated our Business, we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock, where we lay two Hours. It was very smooth Water, and the Tide of Flood, or else we should there have lost our Siupi We struck off a great piece of our Rudder, which was al the damage that we received, but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time, than in any other in the whok * Bats. Perhaps Pterofus Ja^mnacus, a "smoky red' and " black ''hi^ with wings which measure some five or six feet across when extended. ^ In scrubbing her bends, tallowing, filling wood and water, cnttini down her quarter-deck (or high after works), &c., &c. 382 I ISLE OF PANAY— ISLE OF MINDORA Vo>igc. This! a vcrydangei Tous Shoal, because it does not aw. break, unless probably ii may appear in foul Weather. It '**7 j lies about two mile to the Westward, without the small Batt Island. Here wc found the Tide of Flood setting to the Southward, and the Ebb to the Northward. After wc were past this Shoal, we coasted along by the reat of the Philippine Islands, keeping on the West-side of them. Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land. We saw many Fires in the Night as we passed by Panay,' a great Island settled by Spaniards, and by the Firw up and down it seems to be well settled by them ; for this a a Spanish Custom, whereby they give Notice of any Danger or the like from Sea ; and 'tis probable they had seen our Ship the Day before. This is an unfrequented Coast, and 'tia rare to have any Ship seen there. We touched not at Panay, nor any where else ; tho' we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us, and some Shoals,' but ncme of them laid down in our Draughts. The 1 8th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora,' in lo Fathom-water, about 3 quarters of a Mile from the Shore. Mindora is a large Island ; the middle of it lying in Lat. 13, about 40 Leagues long, stretching N. W. and S. E. It is High and Mountainous, and not very Woody. At this Place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low. There was a small Brook of Water, and the Land by the Sea was very Woody, and the Trees high and tall, but a League or two farther in. the Woods arc very thin and small. Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef, and we saw some of each, and hunted them ; but they were wild, and we could kill none. While wc were here, there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila. They were very shy of us a while : But at last, hearing us speak Spanish, they came to us, and told us, that they were going to a Fryar, that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island. They told us also, that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels, most Chinese, ' Thry were pauinu wcMwarri round ihc nonhr rn end of Pjinny. pawiru e Middi oSira 383 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. some Portugueze, and some few the Spaniards have of ^68? their own. They said, that when they had done their business with the Fryar they would return to Manila, and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 Days time. We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila, and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there, which they promised to do. But this was only a pretence of ours, to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping, Strength, and the like, under Colour of seeking a Trade ; for our business was to pillage. Now if we had really designed to have traded there, this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired : For these Men could have brought us to the Fryar that they were going to, and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade : For the Spanish Governors do not allow of it, and we must Trade by stealth. The 2 1 St Day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale. The 23d Day in the Morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia, the place that had been so long desired by us. We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward, and making after her we took her in 2 Hours time. She was a Spanish Bark, that came from a place called Pangasanam,^ a small Town on the N. end of Luconia, as they told us ; probably the same with Pongassinay,^ which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island. She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard ; and therefore we turned her away. The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other. She was laden with Rice and Cotton-Cloth,^ and bound for Manila also. These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship : The Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there, and in their return : and the Cotton-cloth was to make Sail. The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam, and was now ^ Pangasanam. - Pongasinay. ^ Dungare (dungaree) in the MS. 384 ■ THE ISLE OF LUCONIA ' at Manila. It wis this Man that gave us the Relation of whar Strength it had, how they were afraid of us there, ' »nd of the accident thai happen'd ' to them, as is before mentioned in the loth Chapter. We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 Leagues of Manila. Luconia I have spoken of already: but I shall now add this further account of it. It is a great Island, taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length, and its breadth near the middle is about 60 Leagues, but the ends are narrow. The North-end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the & end is about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it; especially at the North-end. The South- side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands: Of these that arc its nearest Neighbours, Mindora lately mcntion'd, is the chief, and gives Name to the Sea or Streighi that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia: being called the Strcights of Mindora. The Body of the Island Luconia is composed of many spacious plain Savannahs, and large Mountains. The Nt>rth-end seems to be more plain and even, I mean freer from Hills, than the South-end : but the Land is all along of a gerhap)S the only City, lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills, facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island, in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environed with a high strong Wall, and very well fortify 'd with Forts and Breast-works. The Houses are large, strongly built, and covered with Pan- tile. The streets are large and pretty regular; with a Parade in the midst, after the Spanish fashion. There are a great many fair Buildings, besides Churches and other Religious Houses ; of which there are not a few. The Harbour is so large, that some hundreds of Ships may ride here : and is never without many, both of their own and strangers. I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco. Besides them, they have some small Vessels of their own ; and they do allow the Portuguese to trade here, but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants, and they drive the greatest Trade ; for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time, and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City, beside Shop-keepers, and Handy-crafts-men in abundance. Small Vessels run up near the Town, but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen, lye a league short of it, where there is a strong Fort also, and Store-houses to put Goods in. I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time, from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon ; for he made a Voyage hither from Porto Nova,^ a Town on the Coast of Coromandel ; in a Portuguese Ship, as I think. Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's Men; some of those that we left at Mindanao. For after he came from thence, they brought a Proe there, by the Instigation of an Irish Man, who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald, a person that spoke Spanish very well ; and so in this their Proe they came hither. They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here, and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had * Porto Novo : to the south of Cuddalore. 386 JOHN FITZ-GERALD, AN IRISHMAN in this time gotten a Spanish Mustcsa Woman to Wifc, and a good E}owry with her. He then professed Physick ' and Surgerjr, and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed knowledge in those Arts ; ftK being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us, he kepi some PiaistcTS and Salves by him ; and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge, and his experience in Kibes.* But then he had a very great stock of Confidence withal, to help out the other; and being an Irii^h Roman Catholick, and having the Spanish Language, he had a great advantage of all his Consorts ; and he alone lived well there of them all. We were not within sight of this Town, but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it, and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea ; which I have caused to be engraven among a few others that I took my self. See the Table. The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here, it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore, a little parcel of Islands, on the Coast of Cambodia, and carry this Prize with us, and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it, designing to return hither again by the latter end of May, and wait for the Acapuico Ship that comes about that time. By our Drafts (which we were guided by, being strangers to these parts) this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way, where we might lye snug for a while, and wait the time of rcttim- tng for our Prey. For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce, lest we ahould become too much exposed, and perhaps be assaulted by a Force greater than our own. So havir^ set our Prisoners ashore, we sailed from Luconia the 26th Day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair Weather, and a brisk Gale. We were in Lat. 14 d. N. when we b^an to steer away from Pulo Condore, and we steer'd S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Sboals of Pracel,' and other Shoals which are very dangerous. Wc were very much afraid of them, but * G«n>i ar nkaiK ' Off tbc mouUu of the Mekottic Riv«r. ■ Tbe Pancel reefa and uUadi. 387 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. escaped them without so much as seeing them, only at 1687 ygj.y South-end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sa Islands or spots of Sand, standing just above Water wit a Mile of us. It was the 1 3th Day of March before we came in si of Pulo Condore, or the Island Condore, as Pulo signi The 14th Day about Noon we anchored on the North-i of the Island, against a sandy Bay 2 Mile from the Sh in 10 Fathom clean hard Sand, with both Ship and Pr Pulo Condore is the Principal of a heap of Islands, and only inhabited one of them. They lye in lat. 8 d. 40 North, and about 20 Leagues South and by East from Mouth of the River of Cambodia.^ These Islands lyd near together, that at a distance they appear to be but t Island. Two of these Islands are pretty large, and of a g( heighth, they may be seen 14 or 15 Leagues at Sea; rest are but little Spots. The biggest of the two (whid the inhabited one) is about 4 or 5 Leagues long, and East and West. It is not above 3 Mile broad at broadest place, in most places not above a Mile wide. 1 other large Island is about 3 Mile long, and half a N wide. This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so o veniently placed at the West-end of the biggest Island, t between both there is formed a very commodious Harbo The entrance of this Harbour is on the North-side, wh the two Islands are near a Mile asunder. There are 3 o small Keys, and a good deep Channel between them s the biggest Island. Towards the South-end of the Harbi the two Islands do in a manner close up, leaving onl; small Passage for Boats and Canoas. There are no m* Islands on the North-side, but 5 or 6 on the South-side the great Island. See the Table. The Mold of these Islands for the biggest part is blacki and pretty deep, only the Hills are somewhat stoi The Eastern part of the biggest Island is sandy, yet cloathed with Trees of divers sorts. The Trees do 1 * The Mekong River. 388 ■ I ft j I ' I i THE TAR TREE w so thick i% I have seen them in some Places, but they ahA generally large and tall, and fit for any use. '^7^ There is one sort of Tree ' much larger than any other on 1 Island, knd which I have not seen any where else. It ^^mut 3 or 4 Foot Diameter in the Body, from whence is iwn a sort of clammy Juice, which being boiled a little »mcs perfect Tar ; and if you boil it much it will become id as Pitch. It may be put to cither use ; we used it ■}i ways, and found it to be very serviceable. The way tt they get this Juice, is by cutting a great gap hori- itxlly in the Body of the Tree half through, and about 'oot from the Ground ; and then cutting the upper part the Body aslope inwardly downward, till in the middle ihc Tree it meet with the traverse cutting or plain. In I plain horizontal semicircular stump, they make a llow like a Bason, that may contain a Quart or two. this hole the Juice which drains from the wounded part of the Tree falls ; from whence you must ipty it everyday. It will run thus for some Months and m di7 away, and the Tree will recover again. The Fruit-trees that Nature hath bestowed on these es are Mangoes ; and Trees bearing a sort of Grape, and ler Trees bearing a kind of wild or bastard Nutmegs. lese all grow wild in the Woods, and in very great mty. The Mangoes here grow on Trees as big as Apple-trees : at Fort St. George arc not so large. The Fruit of is as big as a small Peach ; but long and smaller the top : It is of a yellowish colour when ripe ; it Very juicy, and of a pleasant smell, and delicate taste. Tien the Mango is young they cut them in two pieces, 1 pickle them with Salt and Vinegar, in which they put Be Cloves of Garlick. This is an excellent Sauce, and ich esteemed ; it is called Mango-Achar. Achar I ■uroc signifies Sauce. They make in the East-Indies, illy It Siam and Pegu, several sorts of Achar, as the young tops of Bambocs, &c. Bambo-Achar and * Thii U Um dunar, dt (Lutimer, tree, the Vammam Orfat/a/ii, or 389 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Mango-Achar are most used. The Mangoes were ripe 1687 when we were there, (as were also the rest of these Fruits) and they have then so delicate a Fragrancy, that we could smell them out in the thick Woods if we had but the wind of them, while we were a good way from them, and could not see them ; and we generally found them out this way. Mangoes are common in many Places of the East-Indies; but I did never know any grow wild only at this Place. These, though not so big as those I have seen at Achin and at Maderas or Fort St. George, are yet every whit as pleasant as the best sort of their Garden Mangoes. The Grape- tree ^ grows with a strait Body, of a Diameter about a Foot or more, and hath but few Limbs or Boughs. The Fruit grows in Clusters, all about the Body of the Tree, like the Jack, Durian, and Cacao Fruits. There are of them both red and white. They are much like such Grapes as grow on our Vines, both in shape and colour; and they are of a very pleasant Winy taste. I never saw these but on the two biggest of these Islands ; the rest had no Tar-trees, Mangoes, Grape-trees, nor Wild Nutmegs. The Wild Nutmeg-tree is as big as a Walnut-tree ; but it does not spread so much. The Boughs are gross, and the Fruit grows among the Boughs as the Walnut, and other Fruits. This Nutmeg is much smaller than the true Nutmeg, and longer also. It is inclosed with a thin Shell, and a sort of Mace, encircling the Nut, within the Shell. This bastard Nutmeg is so much like the true Nutmeg in shape, that at our first arrival here we thought it to be the true one ; but it has no manner of smell nor taste. The Animals of these Islands, are some Hogs, Lizards, and Guanoes ; and some of those Creatures mentioned in Chap. XI, which are like, but much bigger than the Guanoes. Here are many sorts of Birds, as Parrots, Parakites, Doves and Pigeons. Here are also a sort of wild Cocks and Hens : They are much like our tame Fowl of that kind ; but a great deal less, for they are about the bigness of a ^ The grape-tree is a shrub of the genus Coccolobo, 390 TURTLES MOVING FROM SEA TO SEA ■ Crow. The Cocks do crow like ours, but much more aw^ small ind shrill ; and by their crowing we do 6rst find them '^' out in the Woods where we shoot them. Their flesh is very white and sweet. _ There arc a great many Limpits and Muscles, and m plenty of green Turtle. H And upon this mention of Turtle again, I think it not ^ amiss to add some reasons to strengthen the opinion that I have given concerning these Creatures removing from place to place. 1 have said in Chapter 5th, that they leave thetr ^ common feeding places, and go 10 places 3 great way from ^M thence to lay, as particularly to the Island Ascention. Now ^M I have discoursed with some since that Subject was printed, ^ who are of opinion, that when the laying time is over, they never go from thence, but lye somewhere in the Sea about the Island, which I think is very improbable : for there can h be no food for them there, as I could soon make appear; ^M and particularly from hence, that the Sea about the Isle of ^M Ascention is so deep as to admit of no anchoring but at one ^ place, where there is no sign of Grass : and we never bring up with our sounding Lead any Grass or Weeds out of very deep Seas, but Sand, or the like, only. But if this be granted, that there is food for them, yet I have a great deal of reason to believe that the Turtle go from hence; for after the laying time you shall never sec them, and whcre- ever Turtle arc, you will sec them rise, and hold their Head above Water to breath, once in 7 or 8 minutes, or at longest in 10 or 12. And if any Man docs but consider, how fish ^m take their certain Seasons of the year to go from one Sea to ^M another, this would not seem strange ; even Fowls also ^M having their seasons to remove from one place to another. These Islands are pretty well watered with small Brooks of freth Water, that run flush into the Sea for 10 Months in the Year. The latter end of March they begin to dry away, and in April you shall have none in the Brooks, but what is lodged in deep Holes; but you may dig Wells in some places. In May, when the Rain comes, the Land is again replenished with Water, and the Brooks run out into the Sea. 39' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. These Islands lie very commodiously in the way to and 1687 from Japan, China, Manila, Tunquin, Cochinchina, and in general all this most Easterly Coast of the Indian Continent ; whether you go through the Streights of Malacca, or the Streights of Sunda, between Sumatra and Java : and one of them you must pass in the common way from Europe, or other parts of the East-Indies ; unless you mean to fetch a great Compass round most of the East-India Islands, as we did. Any Ship in distress may be refreshed and recruited here very conveniently ; and besides ordinary Accommoda- tions, be furnished with Masts, Yards, Pitch and Tar. It might also be a convenient place to usher in a Commerce with the neighbouring Country of Cochinchina, and Forts might be built to secure a Factory; particularly at the Harbour, which is capable of being well fortified. This place therefore being upon all these Accounts so valuable, and withal so little known, I have here inserted a Draft of it, which I took during our stay there. The Inhabitants of this Island are by Nation Cochin- chinese, as they told us, for one of them spake good Malayan : which Language we learnt a smattering of, and some of us so as to speak it pretty well, while we lay at Mindanao ; and this is the common Tongue of Trade and Commerce (though it be not in several of them the Native Language) in most of the East-India Islands, being the Lingua Franca^ as it were, of these Parts. I believe 'tis the vulgar Tongue at Malacca, Sumatra, Java, and Borneo ; but at Celebes, the Phillippine Islands, and the Spice Islands, it seems borrowed for the carrying on of Trade. The Inhabitants of Pulo Condore are but a small People in Stature, well enough shaped, and of a darker Colour than the Mindanayans. They are pretty long Visaged ; their Hair is black and streight, their Eyes are but small and black, their Noses of a mean bigness, and pretty high, their Lips thin, their Teeth white, and little Mouths. They are very Civil People, but extraordinary poor. Their chiefest Employment is to draw the Juice of those Trees that I have described, to make Tar. They preserve it in wooden Troughs ; and when they have their Cargo, they 392 THE INHABITANTS IDOLATERS t it to Oxhinchina, their Mocher-Coi ntry. Some s of them employ themselves to catch Turtle, and boil ' their Fat to Oil, which they also transport home. : People have great large Nets,' with wide Mashes to catch the Turtle. The Jamaica Turllers have such ; and 1 did never sec the like Nets but at Jamaica and here. They are so free of their Women, that they would bring them aboard and offer them to us ; and many of our Men hired them for a small matter. This is a Custom uied by Several Nations in the East-Indies, as at Pegu, Siam, Cochinchina, and Cambodia, as I have been told. It is used at Tunquin also to my Knowledge; for 1 did ^^^terwards make a Voyage thither, and most of our Men ^■vl Women aboard all the time of our abode there. In ^ftenca also, on the Coast of Guinea, our Merchants, Factors, ^Tnd Seamen that reside there, have their black Misses. It is accounted a piece of Policy to do it ; for the chief Faaurs and Captains of Ships have the great Mens Daughters offered them, the Mandarins or Noblemens at Tunquin, and even the King's Wives in Guinea ; and by this sort of Alliance the Country people are engaged to a greater Friendship: And if there should arise any difference about Trade, or any thing else, which might provoke the Natives to seek some treacherous Revenge, (to which all these Heathen Nations are very prone) then these Daiilahs would cenainly declare it to their White Friends, and so hinder their Country-niens Designs. These People arc Idolaters ; but their manner of Worship t knnw not. There are a few scattering Houses and Plantations on the great Island, and a small Village on the South-side of it ; where there is a little Idol Temple, and an Image of an Elephant, about 5 foot high, and in bignes proportionable, placed on one side of the Temple ; and a Horse, not so big, placed on the other aide of it ; both standing with their Heads towards the South. The Temple it self was low and ordinary, built of Wood^ and thatched, like one of their Houses; which arc but very meanly. The Images of the Horse and the Elephant were the 393 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. most general Idols that I observM in the Temples of 1687 Tunquin, when I travell'd there. There were other Images also, of Beasts, Birds and Fish. I do not remember I saw any Humane Shape there ; nor any such monstrous Repre- sentations as I have seen among the Chinese. Where-ever the Chinese Seamen or Merchants come (and they are very numerous all over these Seas) they have always hideous Idols on board their Jonks or Ships, with Altars, and Lamps burning before them. These Idols they bring ashore with them : And beside those they have in common, every Man hath one in his own House. Upon some particular solemn Days I have seen their Bonzies, or Priests, bring whole Armfuls of painted Papers, and burn them with a great deal of Ceremony, being very careful to let no Piece escape them. The same Day they kill'd a Goat which had been purposely fatting a Month before ; this they offer or present before their Idol, and then dress it and feast themselves with it. I have seen them do this in Tunquin, where I have at the same time been invited to their Feasts; and at Bancouli,^ in the Isle of Sumatra, they sent a Shoulder of the sacrific'd Goat to the English, who eat of it, and ask'd me to do so too ; but I refused. When I was at Maderas, or Fort St. George, I took notice of a great Ceremony used for several Nights succes- sively by the Idolaters inhabiting the Suburbs : Both Men and Women (these very well clad) in a great multitude went in solemn Procession with lighted Torches carrying their Idols about with them. I knew not the meaning of it. I observ'd some went purposely carrying Oyl to sprinkle into the Lamps, to make them burn the brighter. They began their round about 1 1 a Clock at Night, and having paced it gravely about the Streets till 2 or 3 a Clock in the Morning, their Idols were carry'd with much Ceremony into the Temple by the Chief of the Procession, and some of the Women I saw enter the Temple, particularly. Their Idols were different from those of Tunquin, Cambodia, &c. being in Humane Shape. ^ IJenkulen. 394 MEN» POISONED AT MINDANAO, DIE I have said already that we arrived at these Islands the 14th day of March, 1687. The next day we searched about ' for a Place to careen in ; and the i6ih day we entered the Harbour, and immediately provided to careen. Some men were «ct to fell great Trees to saw into Planks; others went to unrigging the Ship ; some made a House to put our Goods in, and for the Sail-maker to work in. The Country People resorted to us, and brought us of the Fruits of tbc Island, with Hogs, and sometimes Turtle ; for which they received Rice in exchange, which we had a Ship-load of, taken at Manila. We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor, which we boiled, and used about our Ship's bottom. Wc mixed it first with Lime, which we made here ; and it made an excellent Coat, and stuck on very well. Wc staid in this Harbour from the i6th day of March tilt the i6th of April; in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloth that was 'taken in the Prize. Wc cut a spare Main-top-mast, and sawed Plank to sheath the Ship's Bottom ; for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao, and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off, and clapt on new. While wc lay here 2 of our Men died, who were pGJson'd at Mindanao, they told us of it when they found themselves poison'd, and had lingered ever since. They were opcn'd by our Doctor, according to their own Request before they died, and their Livers were black, light and dry, like pieces of Cork.' Our Business being finished here, we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila, and most of the Rice, taking out enough for our selves, and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where wc first anchored, on the North- tide of the great Island, purposely to water; for there was a great Stream when we first came to the Island, and wc thousbi it was so now. But wc found it dried up, only it siockT in Holc«, 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a Hole. Therefore we did immediately cut Samboes, and made Spouts, through which wc conveyed the Water down to the * ErkleMly drriiosit. The cundiiion was probably due not to poison, ' ' ' * « In amdc, after (be privations or the voyage. 395 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Sea-side; by taking it up in Bowls, and pouring it into ^^^7 these Spouts or Troughs. We conveyed some or it thus near half a Mile. While we were filling our Water, Captain Read engaged an old Man, one of the Inhabitants of this Island, the same, who, I said, could speak the Malayan Language, to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam ; for he had often been telling us, that he was well acquainted there, and that he knew some Islands there, where there were Fisher- men lived, who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea ; for we had nothing but Rice to eat. The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done; therefore it was concluded to spend some time there, and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon, to return to Manila again. The 2 1st day of April .1687, we sailed from Pulo Condore, directing our Course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam. We had fair Weather, and a fine moderate Gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Ubi,^ or the Island Ubi. This Island is about 40 Leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore ; it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam, at the S. W. point of Land, that makes the Bay ; namely the point of Cambodia. This Island is about 7 or 8 Leagues round, and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles. Against the South-East part of it there is a small Key, about a Cables length from the main Island. This Pulo Ubi is very woody, and it has good Water on the North-side, where you may anchor ; but the best anchoring is on the East-side against a small Bay ; then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you. At Pulo Ubi we found two small Barks laden with Rice. They belonged to Cambodia, from whence they came not above two or three Days before, and they touched here to fill Water. Rice is the general Food of all these Countries, therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another, as Corn in these parts of the World. For in some Countries they produce more than enough for ^ Pulo Obi : to the south of Cape Cambodia. 396 THE SEAMEN OF CHAMPA themselves, and send what they can spare to those places ah. where ihcrc is but little. '**?_! The 24th Day we went into the Bay of Siam : This is X hrge deep Bay, of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little, because I design a more particular account of all this Coast, to wit, of Tunquin, Cochinchina, Siam, Champa, Cambodia, and Malacca, making all the most Easterly pan of the Continent of Asia, lying South of China; but to do it in the Course of this Voyage, would too much swell this Volume : and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate Relation of what I know or have learnt of them, together with the neighbouring Parts of Sumatra, Java, &c. where I have spent some time. Wc run down into the Bay of Siam, till we came to the bUnds ' that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of, which lie about the middle of the Bay : But as good a Pilot as he was, he run us aground ; yet wc had no damage. Captain Read went ashore at these Islands, where he found a small Town of Fishermen; but they had no F-'ish to sell, and so we returned empty. We had jret fair Weather, and very little Wind ; so that being often becalmed, we were till the 13th day of May before wc got to Hulo Ubi again. There we found two small Vessels at an Anchor on the Ea3t-side : They were bden with Rice and Laquer, which is used in Japanning of Cabinets. One of these tome from Champa.* bound to the Town of Malacca, which belongs to the Dutch, who took it from the Portugucze : and this shews that they have t Trade with Champa. This was a very pretty neat Vessel, her botitHn very clean and curiously coated ; she had about 40 Men all armed with Cortans, or broad Swords, Lances, and some Guns, that went with a Swivel upon their Gunnals. They were of the Idolaters, Natives of Champa, and some of the briskest, most sociable, without Tearfulness or shyness, and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels. The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia, and was bound ' Pwlap* the Way amap. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. towards the Streights of Malacca. Both of them stopt *^7 here, for the Westerly Winds now began to blow, which were against them, being somewhat belated. We anchored also on the East-side, intending to fill Water. While we lay here we had very violent Wind at S. W. and a strong Current setting right to Windward. The fiercer the Wind blew, the more strong the Current set against it. This Storm lasted till the 20th day, and then it began to abate. The 2 1 St day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore. In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam,^ a Town on the Island Sumatra : She was full laden with Pepper which they bought there, and was bound to Siam : but it blowing so hard, she was afraid to venture into that Bay, and therefore came to Pulo Condore with us, where we both anchored May the 24th. This Vessel was of the Chinese make, full of little Rooms or Partitions, like our Well-boats. I shall describe them in the next Chapter. The Men of thb Jonk told us, that the English were settled on the island Sumatra, at a place called Sillabar ; ^ and the first know- ledge we had that the English had any settlement on Sumatra was from these. When we came to an Anchor, we saw a small Bark at an Anchor near the Shore ; therefore Captain Read sent a Canoa aboard her, to know from whence they came ; and supposing that it was a Malayan Vessel, he ordered the Men not to go aboard, for they are accounted desperate Fellows, and their Vessels are commonly full of Men, who all wear Cressets, or little Daggers by their sides. The Canoas Crew not minding the Captain's Orders went aboard, all but one Man that stay'd in the Canoa. The Malayans, who were about 20 of them, seeing our Men all armed, thought that they came to take their Vessel ; therefore at once, on a Signal given, they drew out their Cressets, and stabbed 5 or 6 of our Men before they knew what the matter was. The rest of our Men leapt * Palembang. ' Sillabar : a settlement near Benkulen. 398 AFFRAY WITH A MALAYAN VESSEL overboard, some into the Canoa, and some into the Sea, and »o got away. Among the rest, one Daniel Wallis' ' leapt into the Sea, who could never swim before nor since ; yet now he swam very well a good while before he was taken up. When the Canoas came aboard, Captain Read manned two Canoas, and went to be revenged on the Malayans; but they seeing him coming, did cut a Hole in their Vessel's bottom, and went ashore in their Boat. Capt. Read followed them, but they run into the Woods and hid themselves. Here we stay'd ten or eleven Days, for it blew very hard all the time. While we stay'd here Herman Coppinger our Surgeon went ashore, intending to live here; but Captain Read sent some Men to fetch him again. 1 had the «ame Thoughts, and would have gone ashore too, but waited for a more convenient place. For neither he nor I, when we were last on board at Mindanao, had any knowledge of the Plot that was laid to leave Capt. Swan, and run away with the Ship; and being sufficiently weary of this mad Crew, we were willing to five them the slip at any place from whence we might ope to get a passage to an English Factory. There was nothing else of Moment happened while we stayd here. * "A joaitg maa, now liveiogio Waymoutb" (Origimal MS.). 399 \ CHAP. XV They leave Pulo Condorej designing for Maniloy but are driven off from thence^ and from the Isle of PratOy by the fVinds^ and brought upon the Coast of China, Isle of St, John^ on the Coast of the Province of Canton ; its Soil and Productions^ China Hogs^ istc. The Inhabitants ; and of the Tartars forcing the Chinese to cut ofi their Hair. Their Habits^ and the little Feet of their Women, China-ware^ China-roots^ Tea^ (f^c. A' Village at St. John's Islandy and of their Husbandry of their Rice, A Story of a Chinese Pagoda^ or Idol-Temple^ and Image. Of the China Jonksj and their Rigging. They leave St, JohrCs and the Coast of China, A most outrageous Storm, Corpus Sant, a Lighty or Meteor appearing in Storms, The PiscadoreSy or Fishers Islands near Formosa : A Tartarian Garrisony and Chinese Town on one of these Islands, They anchor in the Harbour near the Tartars Garrison, and treat with the Governour, Of Amoy in the Province of FokieUy and Macao a Chinese and Portuguese Towny near Canton in China. The Habits of a Tartarian Officer and his Retinue, Their PresentSy excellent Beef Samciuy a sort of Chinese Aracky and Hocciu a kind of Chinese Mum, and the Jars it is bottled in. Of the Isle of Formosay and the five Islands ; to which they gave the Names of Orangey Monmouthy Graftony Basheey and Goat-Islands, in generaly the Bashee Islands, A Digression concerning the different depths of the Sea near high or low Lands, Soily &c, as before. The Soily Fruits and Animals of these Islands, The Inhabitants and their Cloathing, Rings of a yellow Metal like Gold, Their Houses built on remarkable Precipices, Their Boats and Employments. Their Foody of Goat SkinSy Entrailsy\<5c, Parcht Locusts, Basheey or Sugar-cane Drink, Of their Language and Original, Launces and Buffaloe Coats, No Idolsy nor civil Form of Government, A young Man buried alive by them ; supposed to be for Theft, Their JVives and Childreny and Husbandry, Their Manners, Entertainments, and Traffick, Of the Ships first Entercourse with these Peoplcy and Bartering with 400 DEPARTURE FROM PULO CONDORE tfum. Thfir Cturir om«ng the li/aitds ; their ittty there, and , frtndtH t» depart. They art drivtn iff by a vhlent Sterm, and ■ nttm. The Nativet KindneSi to 6 ef thrm Itfl behind. The Crew Humraged by thote Stermi, quit their design ef Cruising aff Manila for the Atafulca Ship ; and 'lit rtsahed la fetch a Csmpau f Cap* Ctiasrin and it fir the Red-Sea. HAVING fill'd our Water, cut our Wood, and got our Ship in a sailing posture, while the blustring hard Winds lasted, we took the first opportunity of a settled Gale to Sail towards Manila. Accordingly June the 4th, 1687, we loosed from Pulo Condorc, with the Wind at S. W. fair Weather at a brisk Gale. The Pepper Jonk bound to Siam remained there, waiting for an Easterly Wind ; but one of his Men, a kind o( a bastard Portuguese, came aboard our Ship, and was entertained for the sake of his knowledge in the several Languages of these Countries. The Wind continued in the S. W. but 24 hours, or a little more, and then came about to the North, and then to the N, E. ; and the Sky became exceeding clear. Then the Wind came at East, and lasted betwixt K. and S. E. for 8 or lO Days. Yet we continued pljring to Windward, expecting every Day a shift of Wind, Koittsc these Winds were not according to the Season of (he year. Wc were now afraid lest the Currents might deceive us, and carry us on the Shoals of PraccI, which were near ua, a little to the N. W. but we passed on to the Eastward, without seeing any sign of them ; yet we were kept much to the Northward of our intended course: And the Easterly Wmds still continuing, we despaired of getting to Manila ; and therefore began to project some Dew design ; and the result was, to visit the Island Plata,' about the Lat. of 20 Dcg. 40 Min. North; and not far from us at this time. It is a small low Island, cnviron'd with Rocks clear round it, by report. It lyeth so in the way between Manila and Canton, the Head of a Province, and a Town i * The }'iuu« tttf, in lat. 10° 40' N., lon(. 1 16* 50' E. 401 2 C CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of great Trade in China, that the Chinese do dread the 1687 Rocks about it, more than the Spaniards did formerly dread Bermudas; for many of their Jonks coming from Manila have been lost there, and with abundance of Treasure in them ; as we were informed by all the Spaniards that ever we converst with in these parts. They told us also, that in these Wrecks most of the Men were drowned, and that the Chinese did never go thither to take up any of the Treasure that was lost there, for fear of being lost themselves. But the danger of the Place did not daunt us; for we were resolved to try our Fortunes there, if the Winds would permit ; and we did beat for it 5 or 6 Days : but at last were forced to leave that Design also for want of Winds ; for the S. E. Winds continuing, forced us on the Coast of China. It was the 25 th Day of June when we made the Land ; and running in towards the Shore we came to an Anchor the same Day, on the N. E. end of St. John's Island.^ This Island is in Lat. about 22 d. 30 min. North, lying on the S. Coast of the Province of Quantung or Canton in China. It is of an indifferent heighth, and pretty plain, and the Soil fertile enough. It is partly woody, partly Savannahs or Pasturage for Cattle ; and there is some moist arable Land for Rice. The skirts or outer part of the Island, especially that part of it which borders on the main Sea, is woody : The middle part of it is good thick grassy Pasture, with some Groves of Trees ; and that which is cultivated Land is low wet Land, yielding plentiful Crops of Rice; the only Grain that I did see here. The tame Cattle which this Island affords, are China Hogs, Goats, Buffaloes, and some Bullocks. The Hogs of this Island are all black; they have but small Heads, very short thick Necks, great Bellies, com- monly touching the Ground, and short Legs. They eat but little Food, yet they arc most of them very fat ; probably because they Sleep much. The tame Fowls are Ducks, and Cocks and Hens. I saw no wild Fowl but a few small Birds. One of the islands near Hong-Kong, at the mouth of the Canton Ri\er. 402 ICHINESE FORCED TO CUT THEIR HAIR The Nativ of this Island Chir Hives ot this island are Chinese, I hey are am. subject to the Crown of China, and consequently at this ' lime to the Tartars. The Chinese in general are tall, strait-bodied, i^w-boned Men. They are long Visaged, and their Foreheads are high ; but they have little Eyes. Their Noses are pretty large, with a rising in the middle. Their Mouths are of a mean size, pretty thin Lips. They irc of an ashy Complexion ; their Hair is black, and their Beards thin and long, for they pluck the Hair out by the Roots, suffering only some few very long straggling Hairs to grow about their Chin, in which they take great pride, often combing them, and sometimes tying them up in a knot, and they have such Hairs too growing down from each side of their upper Lip like Whiskers. The ancient Chinese were very proud of the Hair of their Heads, letting it grow very long, and stroking it back with their Hands curiously, and then winding the plats all together round a B'xlkin, thrust through it at the hinder part of the Head ; and both Men and Women did thus. But when the Tartars conquered them, they broke them of this custom they were fond of, by main force ; insomuch that they resented this Imposition worse than their subjection, and rebelled upon it ; but being still worsted, were forc'd to acquiesce; and to this day they follow the fashion of their Masters the Tartars, and shave all their Heads, on I y reserving one lock, which some tye up, others let it hang down to a grx^t or small length as they please. The Chinese in other Countries still keep their old custom, but if any of the Chinese is found wearing long Hair in China, he forfeits his Head ; and many of them have abandoned their Couniry to preserve their Hbcny of wearing their Hair, as I have been told by themselves. The Chinese have no Hats, Caps, or Turbans; but when they walk abroad, ihcy carry a small Umbrello in their Hands, wherewith they fence their Head from the Sun or the Rain, by holding it over their Heads. If they walk but a little way, they carry only a large Kan made of Paper, or Silk, of the same fashion as those our Ladies have, and many of them arc brought over hither; one of these ' 403 . CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. every Man carries in his Hand if he do but cross the '^^7 Street, skreening his Head with it, if he hath not an Umbrello with him. The common Apparel of the Men, is a loose Frock and Breeches. They seldom wear Stockings, but they have Shoes, or a sort of Slippers rather. The Mens Shoes are made diversly. The Women have very small Feet, and consequently but little Shoes ; for from their Infancy their Feet are kept swathed up with Bands, as hard as they can possibly endure them ; and from the time they can go till they have done growing they bind them up every night. This they do purposely to hinder them from grow- ing, esteeming little Feet to be a great Beauty. But by this unreasonable Custom they do in a manner lose the use of their Feet, and instead of going they only stumble about their Houses, and presently squat down on their Breeches again, being, as it were, confined to sitting all Days of their Lives. They seldom stir abroad, and one would be apt to think, that, as some have conjectured, their keeping up their fondness for this Fashion were a Stratagem of the Mens, to keep them from gadding and gossiping about, and confine them at home. They are kept constantly to their work, being fine Needle-Women, and making many curious Embroideries, and they make their own Shoes ; but if any Stranger be desirous to bring away any for Novelty's sake, he must be a great Favourite to get a pair of Shoes of them, though he give twice their value. The poorer sort of Women trudge about Streets, and to the Market, without Shoes or Stockings ; and these cannot afl^ord to have little Feet, being to get their living with them. The Chinese, both Men and Women, are very ingenious ; as may appear by the many curious things that are brought from thence, especially the Porcelaine, or China Earthen Ware. The Spaniards of Manila, that we took on the Coast of Luconia, told me that this Commodity is made of Conch-shells ; the inside of which looks like Mother of Pearl. But the Portuguese lately mentioned, who had lived in China, and spoke that and the neighbouring Languages very 404 CHINA WARE— CHINA ROOT— TEA well, said, That it was made of a 6ne son of Clay that was dug in the Province of Canton. I have often made enquiry ' about it but could never be well satisfied in it : But while I was on the Coast of Canton 1 forgot to inquire about it. I They nuke very fine Lacquer-ware also, and good Silks; i ind they are curious at Painting and Carving. China affords Drugs in great abundance ; especially Chini-Rooi;' but this is not peculiar to that Country alone ; for there is much of this Root growing at Jamaica, particularly at i6 mile walk, and in the Bay of Honduras It is very plentiful. There is a great store of sugar made In this Country; and Tea in abundance is brought from thence ; being much used thcTc, and in Tunquin and Cochin-china as common drinking ; Women sitting in the Streets, and selling Dishes of Tea hot and ready made ; they call it Chau, and even the poorest People sip it. But the Tea at Tonquecn of Cochinchina seems not so good, or of 80 pleasant a bitter, or of so fine a colour, or such virtue as this in China ; for I have drank of it in these Countries : unless the fault be in the way of making it, for I made none there my self; and by the high red colour it looks as if they nude a Decoction of it, or kept it stale. Yet at Japan I was told there is a great deal of pure Tea, very good. The Chinese are very great Gamesters, and they will never be tired with it, playing night and d.ty, till they have lost all their Esutcs; then it is usual with them to hang theiztfelves. This was frequently done by the Chinese Factors at Manila, as I was told by Spaniards that lived there. The Spaniards themselves are much addicted to Gaming, and arc very expert at it ; but the Chinese are too subtle for thtm, being in general a very cunning People. But a particular Account of them and their Country would fill a Volume; nor doth my short Experience of them qualifie me to say much of them. Wherefore 1 con- fine my self chiefly to what 1 nbscrv'd at St. John's Island, where we lay some time, and visited the shore every day to ^B where we lay some ii: ^^ ■ Smila-i Smilas Ckimi : A »ort of Hnaporilb. ♦05 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. buy Provision, as Hogs, Fowls, and Buflaloe. Here was a '^^7 small Town standing in a wet swampy Ground, with many filthy Ponds amongst the Houses, which were built on the Ground as ours are, not on Posts as at Mindanao. In these Ponds were plenty of Ducks ; the Houses were small and low, and covered with Thatch, and the insides were but ill furnished, and kept nastily : And I have been told by one who was there, that most of the Houses in the City of Canton it self are but poor and irregular. The Inhabitants of this Village seem to be most Husbandmen : They were at this time very busy in Sowing their Rice, which is their chiefest Commodity. The Land in which they choose to Sow the Rice is low and wet, and when Plowed the Earth was like a mass of Mud. They plow their Land with a small Plow, drawn by one Buflaloe, and one Man both holds the Plow, and drives the Beast. When the Rice is ripe and gathered in, they tread it out of the Ear with Buffaloes, in a large round place made with a hard floor fit for that purpose, where they chain 3 or 4 of these Beasts, one at the tail of the other, and driving them round in a Ring, as in a Horse-mill, they so order it that the Buffaloes may tread upon it all. I was once ashore at this Island, with 7 or 8 English Men more, and having occasion to stay some time, we killed a Shote,^ or young Porker, and roasted it for our Dinners. While we were busie dressing of our Pork, one of the Natives came and sat down by us ; and when the Dinner was ready, we cut a good piece and gave it him, which he willingly received. But by Signs he begged more, and withal pointed into the Woods ; yet we did not under- stand his meaning, nor much mind him, till our Hunger was pretty well asswaged ; although he did still make signs, and walking a little way from us he beckoned to us to come to him ; which at last I did, and 2 or 3 more. He going before, led the way in a small blind Path, through a Thicket, into a small Grove of Trees, in which there was an old Idol Temple about 10 foot square : The Walls of it * Earlv editions read " a small shote." 406 CHINESE IDOL, TEMPLE, AND IMAGE ; about 6 Foot bigh, and 2 Foot thick, made of Bricks. The Floor was paved with broad Bricks, and in the middle '**' of the Floor stood an old rusty Iron Bell on its Brims. This Bell was about two foot high, standing flat on the Ground ; the Brims on which it stood were about 16 Inches diameter. From the brims it did taper away a little towards the Head, much like our Bells; but that the Brims did mrt turn out so much as ours do. On the Head of the Bell there were 3 Iron Bars as big as a Man's Arm, and about 10 Inches long from the top of the Bell, where the ends join'd as in a Center, and seemed of one Mass with the Bell, as if Cast together. These bars sto(xl all Parallel to the Ground, and their farther ends, which stood Tri- angularly and opening from each other at equal Distances, like the Fliers of our Kitchen-Jacks, were made exactly in the shape of the Paw of sonic monstrous Beast, having sharp Claws on it. This it seems was their God ; for as soon as our zealous Guide came before the Bell, he fell flat o« his Face and beckoned to us, seeming very desirous to have us do the like. At the inner side of the Temple, against the Walls, there was an Altar of white hewn Stone. The Table of the Altar was about 3 Foot long, 16 Inches broad, and 3 Inches thick. It was raised about two Foot firom the Ground, and supported by 3 small Pillars of the same white Stone. On ihis Altar there were several small Earthen Vessels; one of them was full of small Sticks that had been burned at one end. Our Guide made a great many signs for us to fetch and to leave some of our Meat there, and seemed very importunate, but we refused. We left him there, and went aboard ; I did see no other Temple nor Idol here. While we lay at this Place, we saw several small China Jnaks,' Sailing in the Lagune between the Islands and the Main, one came and anchored by us. I and some more of our Men went aboard to view her : She was built with a square fiat Head as well as Stem, only the Head or fore- ' The HoDg; Knny carijo jnnks arc dctervedly CiRinut. They are fut, rMMBT, 1»ikIv. and very ulfll Latierly the Mjiurc (orcwiil has Ki*ci "'>T in the UMial Chincw baiwn lu^- CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES [an. part was not so broad as the Stern. On her Deck she had 1687 little thatcht Houses like Hovels, cover'd with Palmeto Leaves, and raised about 3 Foot high, for the Seamen to creep into. She had a pretty large Cabbin, wherein there was an Altar and a Lamp burning. I did but just look in, and saw not the Idol. The Hold was divided in many small Partitions, all of them made so tight, that if a Leak should Spring up in any one of them, it could go no farther, and so could do but little Damage, but only to the Goods in the bottom of that Room where the Leak springs up. Each of these Rooms belong to one or two Merchants, or more ; and every Man freights his Goods in his own Room ; and probably lodges there, if he be on Board himself. These Jonks have only two Masts, a Main-mast and a Fore-mast. The Fore-mast has a square Yard and a square Sail, but the Main-mast has a Sail narrow aloft,^ like a Sloops-Sail, and in fair Weather they use a Top-sail, which is to hale down on the Deck in foul weather. Yard and all ; for they do not go up to furl it. The Main-mast in their biggest Jonks seem to me as big as any third-rate Man of Wars Mast in England, and yet not pieced as ours, but made of one grown Tree ; and in all my Travels I never saw any single Tree-masts so big in the Body, and so long, and yet so well tapered, as I have seen in the Chinese Jonks. Some of our Men went over to a pretty large Town on the Continent of China, where we might have furnished our Selves with Provision, which was a thing we were always in want of, and was our chief Business here ; but we were afraid to lye in this Place any longer, for we had some signs of an approaching Storm ; this being the time of the Year in which Storms are expected on this Coast ; and here was no safe Riding. It was now the time of the Year for the S. W. Monsoon, but the Wind had been whiffling about from one part of the Compass to another for two or three Days, and sometimes it would be quite calm. This caused us to put to Sea, that we might have * This was the ordinary oriental batten lug. A sloop's sail was not a lug, but a gaff-sail, setting on a gaff and boom, like the modern spanker. 408 A MOST DREADFUL STORM '■ Sea-room at least ; for such flattering Weather is cotnmonly the fore-runner of a Tempest. ' Accordingly we weighed Anchor, and set out; yet we had very little Wind all the next night. But the day cnsuir^, which was the 4th day of July, about 4 a clock in the afternoon, the Wind came to the N. E. and freshened upon us, and the Sky look'd very black in that quarter, snd the black Clouds began to rise apace and mov'd towards us; having hung all the morning in the Horizon. This made us take in our Top-sails, and the Wind still increasing, about 9 a clock we rift ' our Main-sail and Fore-*ail ; at 10 we furl'd our Fore-sail, keeping under a Main-sail and Mizcn ; at 1 1 a clock we furl'd our Main- sail, and ballasted' our Mizen ; at which time it began to rain, and by t2 a clock at night it blew exceeding hard, and the Rain poured down as through a Sieve. It thundered and lightened prodigiously, and the Sea seemed all of a Fire about us; for every Sea that broke sparkled like lightning. The violent Wind raised the Sea presently to a great heighth, and it ran very short, and began to Iveak in on our Deck. One Sea struck away the Rails of our Head, and our Sheet-Anchor, which was stowed with one Flook ' or bending of the Iron, over the Ships Gunal, and Usht very well down to the side, was violently washt ofl^, and had like to have struck a hole in our Bow, as it lay beating against it. Then we were forced to put right before the Wind to stow our Anchor again ; which wc did with much ado; but afterwards we durst not adventure to bring our Ship to the Wind again, for fear of foundring, for the turning the Ship cither tu or fro from the Wind is dangerous in such violent Storms. The fierceness of the Waiher continued till 4 a clock that morning; in which time wc did cut away two Canoas that were towing utern. After four a clock the Thunder and the Rain abated, * Bihaoed. A miicn, ot laicen wil, w»» uiil 10 be "ballasted," 01 "faataaoed,^ wiitn it v;u reefed. A "bat.-incc reef" is a reef which cmiscs ■ nil ifi>goaall)r. The act of reefing reiluce* the area of a Siiil. * ftate. The crook*, or Uions. uf nn anchor are known as flukes. 409 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and then we saw a Corpus Sant^ at our Main-top-mast '^7 head, on the very top of the truck of the Spindle.* This sight rejoyced our Men exceedingly ; for the height of the Storm is commonly over* when the Corpus Sant is seen aloft ; but when they are seen lying on the Deck, it is generally accounted a bad Sign. A Corpus Sant is a certain small glittering light ; when it appears as this did, on the very top of the Main-mast or at a Yard-arm it is like a Star ; but when it appears on the Deck, it resembles a great Glow-worm. The Spaniards have another Name for it,* (though I take even this to be a Spanish or Portuguese Name, and a corruption only of Corpus Sanctum) and I have been told that when they see them, they presently go to Prayers, and bless themselves for the happy sight. 1 have heard some ignorant Seamen dis- coursing how they have seen them creep, or as they say travel about in the Scuppers, telling many dismal Stories that hapned at such times : but I did never see any one stir out of the place where it was first fixt, except upon Deck, where every Sea washeth it about : Neither did I ever see any but when we have had hard Rain as well as Wind ; and therefore do believe it is some Jelly : but enough of this. * Corposant, or Compasant, a ball of light (an electrical discharge) which sometimes appears in stonns on the masts, spars, and decks of ships. ' The spindle was a tapering iron pin at the summit of a mast. It formed the rest for the wind vane which crossed it transversely. ^ See Jan Huyghen van Linschoten's Discourse of Voyages, in his "Return Voyage from Goa to Enkhuisen" (1588-1592) : "The same night, we saw upon the mainyard and in many other places, a certain sign which the Portuguese call Corpo Santo^ or "the holy body of Brother Peter Gonsalvcs," but the Spaniards aill it San Elmo . . . whensoever that sign showeth upon the mast or mainyard or in any other place ; it is commonly thought, that it is a si^n of better weather. When they first perceive it, the Master or Chief Boatswain whistleth, and commandeth every man to salute it." * St. Elmo's Fire. Sec the Voyage of Robert Tomson "to the West Indies and Mexico" in 1556-1558 (Hakluyt " Princij^il Navigations," ed. 1589): "In the great and boisterous storm of this foul weather, in the night there came upon the top of our mainyard and mainmast, a certain little light, much like unto the light of a little candle, which the Spaniards called the corpus sancto^ and said it was Saint Elmo, whom they take to be the advocate of sailors. . . . This light continued aboard our ship about three hours, flying from mast to mast, and from top to top ; and sometimes it would be in two or three places at once." 410 r A STORM Wc continued scudvling right before Wind and Sea from 2 till 7 a Clock in the Morning, and then the Wind ' being much abated, we set our Mizcn again, and brought our Ship to the Wind, and lay under a Mizen till ii. Then it fell flat calm, and it continued so for about 2 Hours : but the Sky looked very black and rueful, especially in the S^ W. and the Sea tossed us about like an Egg-shell, for want of Wind. About one a Clock in the Afternoon the Wind sprung up at S. W. out of the quarter from whence we did expect it : therefore we presently brail'd up our Mtzen, and wore our Ship : But we had no sooner put our Ship before the Wind, but it blew a Storm again, and ratn'd very hard, though not so violently as the Night before : but the Wind was altogether as boisterous, and so continued till lo or ti a Clock at Night. All which time we acudded, and run before the Wind very swift, tho' only with our bare Poles, that is, without any Sail abroad. Afterwards the Wind died away by d^rccs, and before Day we had but little Wind, and fine clear Weather. 1 was never in such a violent Storm' in all my Life; so Mid all the Company. This was near the change of the Moon : it was 2 or 3 days before the change. The 6th day in the Morning, having fine handsome Weather, we got up our Yards again, and began to dry our Selves and our Cloaths, for wc were all well sopt. This Storm had deadncd the Hearts of our Men so much, that instead of going to buy mure Provision at the same place from whence wc came before the Storm, or of seeking any more for the Island Praca, they thought of going somewhere to tliclter before the Full Moon, for fear of another such Storm at that lime : For commonly, if there is any bad Weather in the Month, it is about 2 or 3 Days before or after the Full, or Change of the Moon. Thew Thoughts, I say, put our Men on thinking where to go, and the Drafts or Sea-plats being first con- ' It tjrpbooB, or revolving tiomi. TI>e sea niMcl by u typhuon is extmiwdy dABjt^raiH ; for it term* to break all way« at once, " it runs very •Iton," u Uwnpier ny*, owing to the conuani thifting of ibc wind. 4" CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. suited, it was concluded to go to certain Islands lying in '^7 Lat. 23 d. N. called Piscadores. For there was not a Man aboard that was anything acquainted on these Coasts ; and therefore all our dependance was on the Drafts, which only pointed out to us where such and such Places or Islands were, without giving us any account, what Harbour, Roads, or Bays there were: or the Produce, Strength, or Trade of them : these we were forced to seek after our selves. The Piscadores are a great many inhabited Islands, lying near the Island Formosa, between it and China, in or near the Lat. of 23 dcg. N. Lat. almost as high as the Tropick of Cancer. These Piscadore Islands are moderately high, and appear much like our Dorsetshire and Wiltshire-Downs in England. They produce thick short Grass, and a few Trees. They are pretty well watered, and they feed abundance of Goats, and some great Cattle. There are abundance of Mounts and old Fortifications on them : but of no use now, whatever they have been. Between the 2 Eastermost Islands there is a very good Harbour, which is never without Jonks riding in it : and on the West side of the Eastermost Island there is a large Town and Fort commanding the Harbour. The Houses are but low, yet well built, and the Town makes a fine Prospect. This is a Garrison of the Tartars, wherein are also 3 or 400 Soldiers ; who live here 3 years, and then they are mov'd to some other Place. On the Island, on the West side of the Harbour, close by the Sea, there is a small Town of Chinese ; and most of the other Islands have some Chinese living on them, more or less. Having, as I said before, concluded to go to these Islands, wc steered away for them, having the Wind at W. S. W. a small gale. The 20th day of July we had first sight of them, and steered in among them ; finding no place to anchor in till we came into the Harbour before- mentioned. We blundered in, knowing little of our way, and we admired to see so many Jonks going and coming, 412 I [ TARTAR GARRISON AT PISCADORES ] and soroc at an Anchor, and so great a Town as the ks. Neighbouring Eastcrmost Town, the Tartarian Garrison; '^^~ for we did not expect, nor desire, to have seen any People, being in Care to lie com-cal'd in these Seas ; however, ■ feeing we were here, we boldly run into the Harbour, and ■ presently sent ashore our Canoa to the Town. I Our People were met by an Officer at their Landing, m «nd our Quartcr-tnastcr, who was the chiefest Man in the I Boat, was conducted before the Governour and examined of I what Nation we were, and what was our Business here. I He answcr'd. That wc were English, and were Bound to I Amoy, or Anhay, which is a City standing on a Navigable I River in the Province of Fokien in China, and is a place of I vait Trade, there being a huge multitude of Ships there, I and in general on all these Coasts, as I have heard of m several that have been there. He said also, that having received some Damage by a Storm, we therefore put in here to refit, before we could adventure to go farther ; and that we did intend to lie here till after the full Moon, for fear of another Storm. The Governour tnid him, that we I tnight better refit our Ship at Amoy than here, and that he ' heard that two English Vessels were arrived there already ; and that he should be very ready to assist us in any thing; but wc must not expect to Trade there, but must go to the places allowed to entertain Merchant-Strangers, which were Amoy and Macao. Macao is a Town of great Trade also, lying in an Island at the very Mouth of the River of Canton. Tis fortified and garisoncd by a large Portuguese Colony, but yet under the Chinese Government, whose People inhabit one Moiety of the Town, and lay on the Portuguese what Tax they please ; for they dare not disoblige the Chinese, for fear of losing their Trade. However, the Governour very kindly told our yuarier-mastcr, that whatsoever we wanted, if that place could furnish us, we thould have it. Yet that wc must not come ashore on that Uland, but he would send aboard some of his Men, to know what wc wanted, and they should also bring it off to us. That nevcrihclcss we might go on shore on other Islands to buy Kcfreshmcnts of the Chinese. After the 4'3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Discourse was ended, the Governour dismist him, with a '^7 small Jar of Flower, and 3 or 4 lai^e Cakes of very fine Bread, and about a dozen Pine-Apples and Water-Melons (all very good in their kind) as a Present to the Captain. The next day an eminent Officer came aboard, with a great many Attendants. He wore a black Silk Cap of a particular make, with a Plume of black and white Feathers, standing up almost round his Head behind, and all his outside Cloaths were black silk : He had a loose black Coat, which reached to his Knees, and his Breeches were of the same ; and underneath his Coat he had two Garments more, of other coloured Silk. His Legs were covered with small black limber Boots. All his Attendants were in a very handsom garb of black Silk, all wearing those small black Boots and Caps. These Caps were like the Crown of a Hat made of Palmeto-leaves, like our Straw Hats ; but without brims, and coming down but to their Ears. These had no Feathers, but had an oblong Button on the top, and from between the Button and the Cap, there fell down all round their Head as low as the Cap reached, a sort of course Hair like Horse-Hair, dyed (as I suppose) of a light red colour. The Officer brought aboard, as a present from the Governour, a young Heifer, the fattest and kindliest Beef, that I did ever taste in any Foreign Country : 'Twas small, yet full grown ; 2 large Hogs, 4 Goats, 2 Baskets of fine Flower, 20 great flat Cakes of fine well tasted Bread, 2 great Jars of Arack/ (made of Rice as I judged) called by the Chinese, Sam Shu; and 55 Jars of Hoc Shu,* as they call it, and our Europeans from them. This is a strong Liquor, made of Wheat as I have been told. It looks like Mum,^ and tastes much like it, and is very pleasant and * Arrack. The true "Sam Shu"' was distilled from rice which had been steeped in milk. Nieuhoff, who drank of it in 1653-54, describes it as bein^ "almost as strong as brandy." * Native, or China beer. There is, or was, another drink with a name very similar. This was made by steeping the roots of an herb in boiling water, and adding the seeds of a kind of tamarind. The " Hoc Shu "' was brewed from a special variety of rice, to which drugs were added. ' Mum was strong beer brewed after a German receipt. 414 r SAM SHU AND HOC SHU | hearty. Our Seamen love it mightily, and will lick their an. Lips with it : for scarce a Ship goes to China, but the Men '^^^ come home fat with soaking this Liquor, and bring store of Jars of it home with them. It is put into small white thick h J»n, that hold near a quart : The double Jars hold about H two quarts. These Jars are small below, and thence rise up H with a pretty full belly, closing in pretty short at top, with H a small thick mouth. Over the mouth of the Jar they put H a thin Chip cut round, just so as to cover the mouth, over H that a piece of Paper, and over that they put a great lump H of Clay, almost as big as the Bottle or Jar it self, with a H hollow in it, to admit the neck of the Bottle, made round, H and about 4 inches long ; this is to preserve the Liquor. H If the Liquor take any vent it will be sowre presently, so H that when we buy any of it of the Ships from China re- H turning to Maderas, or Fort St. George, where it is then V sold, or of the Chinese themselves, of whom I have bought 1 it at Achin, and Bcncouli in Sumatra, if the Clay be crackt, I or the Liquor mothcry,' we make them take it again. A I qiurt Jar there is worth Six-pence. Besides this Present I from the Governour, there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two M Jars of Arack, and abundance of Pine-apples and Water- ■ melons. H Captain Read sent ashore, as a present to the Governour H a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier, an English Carbine, H and a Gold Chain, and when the Officer went ashore, three H Guns were fired. In the Afternoon the Governour sent off H the same Officer again, to complement the Captain for his ■ Civility, and promised to retaliate his kindness before we I departed ; but wc had such blustring Weather afterward, 1 that no Boat could come aboard. Wc suycd here till the 29th Day, and then sailed from hence with the Wind at S. W. and pretty fair Weaihcr. Wc now directed our Course for some Islands wc had chosen to go to, that lye between Formosa and Luconta.* They are laid down in our Plots without any name, only with a figure of 5, denoting the number of them. It was J ' Mottiery, (hick, full of i>rilimrni. like unc);>ti. I ' They lie to Uie nnnh of the 1'liilippines. ^| 415 ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. supposed by us, that these Islands^ had no Inhabitants, '^^7 because they had not any name by our Hydrographers. Therefore we thought to lye there secure, and be pretty near the Island Luconia, which wc did still intend to visit. In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa, leaving it on our Larboard-side. This is a large Island; the South-end is in Lat. 21. d. 20 m. and the North-end in the 25 d. 10 m. North Lat. the Longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the Pike of TenarifFe, so that *tis but narrow ; and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it. It is a high and woody Island, and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese, and was then frequently visited by English Merchants, there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships. But since the Tartars have conquered China, they have spoiled the Harbour, (as I have been informed) to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion, from fortifying themselves there ; and ordered the Foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main. The fifth day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to, and anchored on the East-side of the Northermost Island, in 15 Fathom, a Cablets length from the Shore. Here, contrary to our Expectation, we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight ; for there were 3 large Towns ail within a League of the Sea ; and another larger Town than any of the three, on the backside of a small Hill close by also, as we found afterwards. These Islands lie in Lat. 20. d. 20 m. North Lat. by my Obser- vation, for I took it there, and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts, to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts, some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge, to give ^ The Batan or Bashee group, between lat. i(.f 58' and 20"^ 28' N., and long. 122° 41' and 123° E. There are various small islands in addition to the five Dampier mentions. "The Westernmost " is now called Ibayat ; "The Duke of Grafton's Isle" is Batan ; "The Duke of Monmouth's Island" is Sabian. The lesser island of Bashee is now Basay. The group was settled by the Spaniards in 1783, and the islands are now more populous than they were in Dampier's time. The inhabitants are Malayan ; but their language is not like any known Malayan dialect. 416 I GRAFTON AND MONMOUTH ISLES them what Nimcs we please. Three of the Islands were pretty large ; the Wcstermost is the biggest. This the ' Dutchmen who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island, in honour of his present Majesty. It is about 7 or 8 Leagues long, and about two Leagues wide ; and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands arc ilx)ut 4 or 5 Leagues to the Eastward of this. The Northermost of them, where we first anchored, I called the Duke of Grafton's Isle, as soon as we Landed en it ; having married my Wife ' out of his Dutchess's Family, and leaving her at Arlington-house, at my going Abroad, This Isle is about 4 Leagues long, and one League and an half wide, stretching North and South. The other great Island our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island. This is about a League to the Southward of Grafton Ule. It is about 3 Leagues long, and a League wide, lying as the other. Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island, there arc two small Islands of a roundish Form, lying East and West. The Eastermost Island of the two, our Men unanimously called Bashce Islaod, from a liquor which we drank there plentifully every day, after wc came to an Anchor at it. The other, which is the smallest of all, wc called Goat Island, from the great number of Goats there ; and to the Northward of them all, are two high Rocks. Orange Island, which is the biggest of them all, is not Inhabited. It is high Land, flat and even on the top, with steep Cliffs against the Sea ; for which Reason we could not go ashore there, as we did on all the rest. r have made it my general Observation, That where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea, there the Sea is very deep, and seldom affords Anchor Ground ; and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea, (altho* the Land be extra- ordinary high within,) yet there are commonly good Soundings, and consequently Anchoring ; and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near, or at (he edge L * Jndilli Datnpier. She was olive in i?ov CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of the Water, whether pretty steep, or more sloping, so 1687 ^g commonly find our Anchor-ground to be more or less deep or steep; therefore we come nearer the Shore, or anchor farther off, as we see convenient ; for there b no Coast in the World, that I know, or have heard of, where the Land is of a continual heighth, without some snull Valleys or Declivities, which lie intermixt with the Wgh Land. They are the subsidings of Valleys or low Lands, that make Dents in the Shore, and Creeks, small Bays, and Harbours, or little Coves, &c. which afford good anchoring, the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water. Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts, where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifis, by reason of the Declivities, or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs : But where the Declension from the Hills, or Cliffs, s not within Land, between Hill and Hill, but, as on the Coast of Chili and Peru, the Declivity is toward the Main Sea, or into it, the Coast being per- pendicular, or very steep from the neighbouring EQUs, is in those Countries from the Andes, that run along the Shore, there is a deep Sea, and few or no Harbours, or Creeks. All that Coast is too steep for anchoring, and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know. The Coasts of Gallicia, Portugal, Norway and Newfound- land, &c. are Coasts like the Peruvian, and the high Islands of the Archipelago ; but yet not so scanty of good Harbours ; for where there are short Ridges of Land, there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges^ where they plunge into the Sea ; as on the Coast of Caraccos, &c. The Island of John Fernando, and the Island St. Hellena, &c. are such high Land with deep Shore: and in general, the plunging of any Land under Water, seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water, more or less steep ; and it must be a bottom almost level, or very gently declining, that affords good Anchoring, Ships being soon driven from j their Moorings on a steep Bank : Therefore we never . strive to anchor where we see the Land high, and bounding ] the Sea with steep Cliffs ; and for this reason, when it '< 418 , j I HIGH SHORES AND DEEP SEAS ■ came in sight of Statcn Island near Terra del Fuego, before ah. wc entered into the South Seas, we did not so much as '^' think of anchoring after wc saw what Land it was, because of the steep Cliffs which appeared against the Sea ; yet ^H there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops, or ^H the like, to anchor in, which we did not see or search after. ^H As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill ^H consequence, that they seldom afford anchoring ; so they ^H have this heneJit, that wc can see them far off, and sail ^H close to them, without danger: for which reason wc call ^H them bold Shores ; whereas low land on the contrary, is ^H seen but a little way, and in many places we dare not ^H come near it, for fear of running aground before we sec it. ^| Besides, there arc in many places Shoals thrown out by the ^| course of great Rivers, that from the low Land fall into ^M the Sea. ^M This which I have said, that there is usually good ^H anchoring near low Lands, may be illustrated by several ^H Instances. Thus on the South side of the Bay of ^| Campcachy, there is mostly low Land, and there also is H good Mchoring all along Shore ; and in some places to the ■ Kastward of the Town of Campeachy, we shall have so many fathom as we arc Leagues off^ from Land ; that is, from 9 or lO Leagues distance till you come within 4 Leagues: and from thence to Land it grows but shallower. The Bay of Honduras also is low Land, and continues m'Mtly so, as wc past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobei, and Cartagena, till we came as high as Santa Martha; afterwards the Land is low again, till you come towards the Coast of Caraccos, which is a high Coast and bold Shore. The Land about Surinam on the same Coast Is low and good anchoring, and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also. And such tcxi is the Bay of Panama, where the Pilot«al yawl U buill spMially Tor biunchinK fron [)cal bcacb, "fox ■ -*- ■ *• — " ---* -amctinic* the »ca nin* high were not good wholtsonu! then it a Mronjt >out three or four days, before we went to other Islands. Wc sailed to the Southward, jiassing on the ICast-side of Grafton Island, and then passed thro' between that and Monmouth Island ; but wc found no Anchoring till wc came to the North end of Monmouth Island, and there wc stopt during one Tide. The Tide runs very strong here, M and sometimes makes a short chopping Sea. Its course H among these islands is S. by E. and N. by W, The Flood U sets to the North, and Ebb to the South, and it riseth and falleth 8 Foot. When we went from hence, we coasted about 2 Le^ues to the Southward, on the West side of Monmouth Island ; J and finding no Anchor-ground, wc stood over to the H Bishcc Island, and came to an Anchor on the North East m part of it, against a small sandy Bay, in 7 fathom clean hard Sand, and about a quarter of a Mile from the Shore. Here is a pretty wide Channel between these two Islands, and Anchoring all over it. The Depth of Water is 12, 14, and 16 Fathom. Wc presently built a Tent ashore, to mend our Sails in, and stay'd all the rest of our time here, viz. from the 13th day of August till the l6th day of September. In which time wc mended our Sails, and scrubbed our Shi[4 429 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. bottom very well; and every day some of as went to '^7 their Towns, and were kindly entertained by them. Their Boats also came aboard widh thmr Merchandize to sell, and lay aboard all Day ; and if we* did not take it off their Hands one day, they would bring the same again the next. We had yet the Winds at S. W. and S:& W. mostly fair Weather. In October we did escpect the Winds to shift to the N. E. and therefore we provided to sail (as soon as the Eastern Monsoon was settled) to cruize off of Manila. Accordingly we provided a stock of Provision. We salted 70 or 80 good fat Hc^ and bought Yams and Potatoes good store to eat at Sea. About the 24th day of Srotember, the Winds shifted about to the East, and from thence to the N. E. fine fkv Weathtf. The 25th it came at N. and began to gt>w fresh, and the Sky began to be clouded; and the Wind freshned on us. At 12 a clock at night it blew a very fierce Storm. We were then ridingwith our best Bower a Head, and though our Yards and Top-mast were down, yet we drove. Tms obliged us to let go our Sheet- Anchor, veering out a good scope of Cable, which stopt us till 10 or 11 a clock the next day. Then the Wind came on so fierce, that she drove again, with both Anchors a-head. The Wind was now at N. by W. and we kept driving till 3 or 4 a clock in the afternoon : And it was well for us that there were no Islands, Rocks, or Sands in our way, for if there had, we must have been driven upon them. We used our utmost Endeavours to stop her, being loath to go to Sea, because we had six of oiu* Men ashore, who could not get off now. At last we were driven out into deep Water, and then it was in vain to wait any longer : Therefore we hove in our Sheet Gible, and got up our Sheet Anchor, and cut away our best Bower, (for to have heav*d her up then would have gone near to have foundred us) and so put to Sea. We had very violent Weather the night ensuing, with very hard Rain, and we were forced to scud with our bare Poles till 3 a Clock in the morning. Then the Wind slackened, 430 I OF SIX ENGLISHMEN LEFT ASHORE and we brought our Ship to, under a mizen, and lay with / our Head to the Westward. The 27th day the Wind " abated much, but it rained very hard all day, and the Night ensuing. The 28th day the Wind came about to the N. E. and it cleared up. and blew a hard Gale, but it stood not there, for it shifted about to the Eastward, thence to the S. E. then to the South, and at last settled at S. W. and then we had a moderate Gale and fair Weather. It was the 19th day when the Wind came to the S. W. Then we made all the Sail we could for the Island again. The 30th day we had the Wind at West, and saw the Islands ; but could not get in before night. Therefore we stood off to the Southward till two a Clock in the Morning ; then we taekt and stood in all the morning, and about 12 a clock, the ist day of October, wc anchored again at the place from whence we were driven. Then our six Men were brought aboard by the Natives, ' to whom we gave 3 whole Bars of Iron, for their kindness and civility, which was an extraordinary Present to them. Mr. Robert Hall was one of the Men that was left ashore. I shall speak more of him hereafter. He and the rest of them told me, that after the Ship was out of sight, the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before, and pcrswaded them to cut their Hair short, as theirs was, offering to each of them if they would do it, a young Woman to Wife, and a small Hatchet, and other Iron Utensils, fit for a Planter, in Dowry; and wiihal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage. They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were : but they took up their head quarters at the House of him with whom they first went ashore. When the Ship appeared in sight again, then they importuned them for some Iron, which is the chief thing that they covet, even above their Ear-rings. We might have bought all 1 their Ear-rings, or other Gold they had, with our Iron- ^L bare, had wc been assured of its goodness ; and yet when it ^M was touch'd and compared with other Gold, we could ^^ not discern any difference, tho' it looked so pale in the CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. lump ; but the seeing them polish it so often was a new «687 discouragement. This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart : for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Gxist of China, which was still fresh in Memory, yet it wrought more powerfully, and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila, fearing another Storm there. Now every Man wisht himself at home, as they had done an hundred times before: But Captain Read, and Captain Teat the Master, perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin,* and then they would tell them more of their Minds, intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea; and they easily prev^led with the Crew. The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand, and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca : but Captain Teat said it was dangerous, by reason of many Islands and Shoals there, with which none of us were acquainted. Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East-side of all the Philippine Islands,' and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands, to pass out into the East- Indian Ocean about the Island Timor. This seem'd to be a very tedious way about, and as dangerous altogether for Shoals ; but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships, which was their greatest Fear. I was well enough satisfied, knowing that the farther we went, the more Knowledge and Experience I should get, which was the main Thing that I regarded ; and should also have the more variety of Places to attempt an Escape from them, being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip. ■ The southern extremity of India. - The reason Captain Teat gave seems insufficient. He may have thoiij(ht the route ina the Moluccas and the Banda Sea more likely to afTord him refreshment, and quiet anchorajjes. Or he may have had hopes of estal)lishinj( a trade at some spice island not then annexed by the Dutch. The route he chose was less frequented than the other, and he may have chosen it to avoid Dutch and English vessels, as Dampier suggests a few lines lower down. 432 CHAP. XVI ■ 7*A/^ dtfart from tht Baihtt ttlanils, and passing ty sontr alhrrt^ and tht N. End of Lucenia. St. Jahn'i Itit, and aihrr tf ikf Phi/lifiinn. They stop at tht two hl/s ntar Mindanat ; whtrt they rf-fil ihrir Ship, and mate a Pump afttr tht Spanish fashitn. By iht pung Princt nf tht Spiti Is/and ihty have Wnvi »f Captain Sivan, and hit Attn, lift at Mindanao. The Author propaui to tht Crew to return to him \ but in vain : Tht Story of his Murdtr at Mindanao. The C/ave-lUands. Ttrnait. Tidore, t^t. Tht Ithnd Ciltbeiy and Dutch Town of Mataatr. Thty Coast aiong tht East sidt of Ctlthtt, and betwttn it and other Islandi and Sholrt, with great difficulty. Shy Turtlf. Fait Cocklts. A wild Vint of great Virtue for Sorts. Gnat Trees; oni txctssivtly big. Btacons intttad of Buoys on the Shales. A Spaut : a Description of them, with a Story of ant. Uncertain Tornadoes. Turtle, The Island Bmton, and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung. The In- habilaHli, Fitits given and receiv'd by the Sultan. Hit Device in the Flag of his Prie: His Guards, Habit, and Children. Their Ctmmeree. Their different esteem {as they pretend) of the English and Dutch. Marilimt Indians sell others for Slaves. Their Rtteptim in tht Town. A Boy with 4 rntis of Teeth. Paraiitei, I Crteiadores, a sort of IVhite Parrots, They pass among other > Inhabited Islands, Omba, Pentare, Timore, isfc. Sholeu New- Htlland ; laid down too much Northward. In Soil, and Dragen- irtts. The poor IViniing Inhabitants : their Feathers, Habit, Food, Arms, ifc. The way of fetching Fire out of ffood. Tht Inhabitants on the Islands. Their Habitations, Unfiinest for Labmr, iJe. Tht grtat Tidti htrt. They detign for tht Island Cm**, and Cap* Comarin. THE third Day of October 1687, wc sailed from an. these Islands, standing to the Southward ; in- '^7 tending to sail through among the Spice Islands. Wc had fair Weather, and 3ie Wind at West. We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small voi-l. 433 1 t L CAFTADi DAMPIER^ VOYAGES AST. L:iaads dat he =usr bf de NorA-cad of die Uud '^* Loooca. We Ldft them all OB die West of os^ and post on rbr Ejsc-saie of it, and the rest of die FU^iiiuie Ishiids^ ccassDg to t£ie Sootlnmd. The N. Exscrcod of die Umd Ijorwnii ap pc as to be good CbampoB Laad, of an mdifinnt h^g^idi, plain and cren for manT Leagues; onlj it has aoine pretty U^ Hills, ^nifciifg apright bf thimwl i ts in dwae Flaina; Imt no ridges of Hilh;» or doins of Bi nqntains joymng one to another. The Land on tins aide seems to he moat Savannah, or Pasture: The S E. part is more Mo un t ain ous and Woody. Leaving the Island fjnmnia, and with it our Golden Projects, we suled cm to the Southward, paauig on the East-side of the rest of the Philippine fahnds. These appear to be more Mountaunoos^ and km Woody, till we came in sight of the Island St. John; the first of that name I mentioned : the other I spake of on the GMst of China. This I have already described to be a very woody Island. Here the Wind coming Southerly, forced us to keep futher from the Islands. The 14th day of October we came close by a small low woody Island, that lieth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao, disunt from it about 20 Leagues. I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart. The 1 5 th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao, and arrived at the S. E. end again on the i6th day. There we went in and anchored between two small Islands, which lie in about 5 d. 10 m. North Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove, on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island, fit to careen in, or hale ashore ; so we went in there, and presently unrigg'd our Ship, and provided to hale our Ship ashore, to clean her bottom. These Islands are about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Island Mindanao ; they are about 4 or 5 Leagues in Circumference, and of a pretty good heighth. The Mold is black and deep ; and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water. They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees ; 434 I I I I i W^m SPANISH PUMPS ^HH B^K t-r. <^H therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some ak. of them for our use ; for here they made a new Boltsprit, ""*' which we did set here also, our old one being very faulty. They made a new ]''nre-yard loo, and a Kore-top-mast : J And our Humps being faulty, and not serviceable, they H did cut a Tree to make a Pump. They first squared it, ^ then sawed it in the middle, and then hollowed each side exactly. The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both, when they were joined together; and it required their utmost Skill J to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for H the Pump-box ; lieing unaccustomed to such Work. We ^ learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards ; who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the Souih- Scas after this manner ; and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the World than they have. J While we lay here, the young Prince' that I mentioned ^| in the 13th Chapter came aboard. He understanding that ^M We were bound farther to the Southward, desired us to transfwrt him and his Men to his own Island. He shewed it to us in our Draft, and told us the Name of it; which we put down in our Draft, for it was not named there; but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal. This Man told us, thai not above six days before this, he saw Captain Swan, and several of his Men that we left there, and named the Names of some of them, who. he said, were all well, and that now they were at the City of Mindanao; but that they had all of them been out with Raja Laut, fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores; and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage; for which they were highly honoured and esteemed, as well by the Sultan, as by the General Raja Laut ; that now Capt. Swan intended to go with his Men to Kort St. George, and thai in order thereto, he had proffered ' " The youfiK man befort mentionrd, « ho I laid wa» «nt by hi» Unklf, Ihf .Sultan »hip with spice, pro- vidcd he wouki buiM a imall Fnn, nnd leave inme men lo lecute (he island from the Ounk." DampicT wai aflcrwardi lotd ihat ibe Dutch had a.\ tlic iiUnd. 435 '.I^-'^^.^pt- CAPTAm DAMFErat'S YOTAGE5 '^W€ftmotj€t agnml; a«l tfat fce fi»d tfat the Mta wooU MK let lwB«0 «nf ^ Ae Wan vac caded. ilU am llie nmet told « mihe BUUfm Xo^pi^ wMAmmf^iuBhad Icamr; aad vim lie ipeatswvf 1"^ ITOOHffid t0 ictom fo US fl^flii ia 3 dafs tunt, and mi lo^g Ca p ft i i fi Scad nmiiwd 10 ttay fiv luai C^v ipb lad iioar mboo&t soaaicd OBf jMiMflcss j and 1h^ aocDMsd ncfv iriad of Oa oppofftiMii|r Of gjoin|g[ 'wdk Qa» Ancr tliif I cndcafoorad to pcnwada oiir Bfien, to jptftma wiuii ub6 ^MIM^ €0 um* Jiuvcsr' €■ DfiodanaoL and o^rst tlwir Sari^ agni to Captafli Svaa. I took an opportmnty flAMi tiief Here fifing of Water^ dme being then half die Stttpi QmiiNttijr adiore; and I found all dicae way Hilfing to do k. I dcdrcd tlieai to aqr notlung, till I had tried the htinda of the other hatfl which I intywfed to do die next day; it being thdr torn to fil Water then ; But one of these Mdi^ who teemed nioat foniatd to invite badL Ciptm Sffan, t«rid Caplann Bead and Captain Teat of the Fririect, and thqr pttaentlf dbawaded the Men from any McftDe^ Yetfearingthewoi»t,diey made all possible haste to be eone* I have since been informed, that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward ; and that many of the Men got passages from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate, particularly Mr. Rofy, and Mr. Nelly. There they renuined a great while, and at last got to Batavia (where the Dutch took their Journals from them) and so to Europe ; and that some of Captain Swan*s Men died at Mindanao; of which number Mr. Harthope, and Mr. Smith, Captain Swan's Merchants were two. At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road, in order to get passage to Europe, were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River ; who waited their coming purposely to do it, but unsuspected by them ; where they both were kill'd in the Water. This was done by the General's order, as some think, to get his Gold, which he did immediately seize on. Others say, it was because the General's House was burnt a 436 I I OF CAPTAIN SWAN— CELEBES little before, and Captain Swan was suspected to be the ah. Author of it ; and others say, That it was Captain Swan's '^' Threats occasioned his own Ruin ; for he would often say passionately, that he had been abused by the General, and that he would have satisfaciion for it; saying also, that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers, and knew how to come in at any time ; that he also knew their manner of Fighting, and the Weakness of their Country ; and therefore he would go away, and get a Band of Men to assist him, and returning thither again, he would spoil and _ take all that they had, and their Country too. When the ■ General had been informed of these Discourses, he would I say. What, is Captain Swan made of Iron, and able to resist ' a whole Kingdom ? Or docs he think that we arc afraid of him, that he speaks thus ? Yet did he never touch him, tilt now the Mindanayans killed him. It is very probable there might be somewhat of Truth in all this ; for the Captain was passionate, and the General greedy of Gold. But whatever was the occasion, so he was killed, as several have assured mc, and his Gold seized on, and all his Things ; and his Jounial also from England, as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico. This journal was afterwards sent away from thence Isy Mr. Moody (who was there both a httlc before and a little after the Murder) and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard, Chief Mate of the DeftHce. But to our purpose : Seeing 1 could not pcrswadc them to go to Captam Swan again, 1 had a great destre to have hacTthe Prince's Company: But Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle Crew lie long. That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us, which was November , 1687, we sailed hence, directing our Course South West, I and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes; then it veered about to the West, and to the Southward of the West. We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day, and there we found the Current selling to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East-side of that Island. The UUnd Celebes is a very large island, extended in 437 i CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES lovA from North to Soucb, about 7 degrees of Lat. and ' in Bfodlh it ts xbout 3 degrees^ It lies under the Equator, the North-end being in Lat. i d. 30 m. North, and the Sonth-cnd in Lst. 5 d. 30 m. South, and by commoa accoont the North-point in the Bulk of this Island, lies neatest K-i^^h and South, but at the North Easi end there ruBB am a loog oarrow Point, stretching N. E. about 30 Leagues; and about 30 Leagues to the Eastward c^ this Umtg Sfipe, is the Island Gilolo, on the West-side of which are 4. small Islands, dose bj it, which are very well stored widi Cloves. The two chiefcst are Temate and Tidore ; and as the Isle (^ Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Gnnamon, and that of Banda for Nutmegs, so these are Aoa^a. by some to be the only Clove-Istands in the World ; bat tlus is a great Error, as I have already shewn. At the South-end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulfdi, of about 7 or 8 Leagues wide, and 40 or 50 long, iriuch runs up the Country almost directly to the North; and thb Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle 1 of It. On the West-side of the Island, almost at the South^ end of it, the Town of Macasser is seated. A Town o^ great Strength and Trade, bele due South from the Shoal that we past by the jist day of December. We ran in ciose by it, and finding no convenient anchoring, because it lies open to the N. WT we ran along shore to the Eastward, steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies. We steered thus about 1 2 Leagues ; and then came to a Point of Land, from whence the Land trends Hast and Southerly, for to * In bU eictllcni cbaptrr on Wind* in the Kcond volume * The landfjil) may >uvc Iwen in ilie ncishbourhnod of C«p<: nuikcrtille, in which cue the anchnm^ woold have bcm in Kinfi Sound ; or in Collier Bay, with lb* anchoran in Brantwiclc Bay. The " ainindance of 1 lUndt " mmv liav* twjn Ihe ** lluff!aneer Arrhini>LiLm " al Thp mouth nf ICinv 451 * V- *T^?^' GAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ' AN. or 12 Leagues; but how afterwards I know not About '^^ 3 Lei^es to the Eastward of this Pcrint, there is a pretty deep Bay, with abundance of Islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in, or to hale ashore. About a League to the Eastward of that Point we anchored January the 5th, 1688, 2 Mile from the Shore, in 29 Fathom, good hard Sand, and clean Ground. New Holland b a very large Tract of Land. It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main G>ntinent ; but I am certain that it Joyns neither to Asia, Africa, nor America. This part of it that we saw is all low even Land, with Sandy Banks against the Sea, only the Points are rocky, and so are some of the Islands in this Bay. The Land is of a dry sandy Soil, destitute of Water, except you make Wells; yet producing divers sorts of Trees ; but the Woods are not thick, nor the Trees very Ug. Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees,^ as we supposed ; and these too are the largest Trees of any there. They are about the Ingness of our large Apple- trees, and about the same heighth : and the Rind is blaciush, and somewhat rough. The Leaves are of a dark colour; the Gum distils out of the Knots or Cracks that are in the Bodies of the Trees. We compared it with some Gum Dragon, or Dragon's Blood, that was aboard, and it was of the same colour and taste. The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us. There was pretty long Grass growing under the Trees ; but it was very thin. We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries. We saw no sort of Animal, nor any Track of Beast, but once ; and that seemed to be the Tread of a Beast as big as a great MastifF-Dog. Here are a few small Land- birds, but none bigger than a Blackbird ; and but few Sea- fowls. Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish, unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such. Of these Creatures there is plenty ; but they are extraordinary shy ; though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much, having neither Boats nor Iron. * Dragon-trees : Dracena Draco. 452 I WINKING PEOPLE OF NEW HOLLAND The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablcst People in the world. The Hudmadods of Monomatapa, ' though a nasty People, yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these; who have no Houses and skin Garments, Sheep, Poultry, and Fruits of the Earth, Ostrich Eggs, &c. as the Hds have : And setting aside their Humane Shape, they differ but little from Brutes. They are tall, strait- bodied, and thin, with small long Limbs. They have great Heads, round I'orehcads, and great Brows. Their Eye-lids are always half closed, to keep the I'lics out of their Eyes; they being so troublesome here, that no Fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face ; and without the assistance of both Hands to keep them off", they will creep into ones Nostrils, and Mouth too, if the Ups are not shut very close: so that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects, they do never open their Eyes as other People ; And therefore they cannot see far, unless they hold up their Heads, as if they were looking at somewhat over them. They have great Bottle Noses, pretty full Lips, and wide Mouths. The two Fore-teeth of their Upper jaw arc wanting in all of them, Men and Women, Old and Young; whether they draw them out, 1 know not: Neither have they any Beards. They arc long visagcd, and of a very unpleasing Asjicct, having no one graceful Feature in their Faces. Their Hair is black, short and curl'd, like that of the Negroes ; and not long and lank like the common Indians. The colour of their Skins, both of their Faces and the rest of their Body, is coal black, like that of the Negroes of Guinea. They have no sort of Cloaths, but a piece of the Rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their Waists, and a handful of long Grass, or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves, thrust under their Girdle, to cover their Nakedness. They have no Houses, but lie in the open Air, without any covering; the Earth being their Bed, and the Heaven their Canopy. Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman, or promiscuously, 1 know not: but they do live 453 k CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. in Companies, 20 or 30 Men, Women, and Children ^^^ together. Their only Food is a small sort of Fish, which they get by making Wares ^ of Stone across little Coves or Branches of the Sea ; every Tide bringing in the small Fish, and there leaving them for a Prey to these People, who constantly attend there to search for them at Low- water. This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery: They have no Instruments to catch great Fish, should they come ; and such seldom stay to be left behind at Low-water : Nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there. In other Places at Low-water they seek for Cockles, Muscles, and Periwincles : Of these Shell-fish there are fewer still : so that their chiefest dependance is upon what the Sea leaves in their Wares ; which, be it much or little they gather up, and march to the Places of their abode. There the old People that are not able to* stir abroad by reason of their Age, and the tender Infants, wait their return ; and what Providence has bestowed on them, they presently broil on the Coals, and eat it in common. Sometimes they get as many Fish as makes them a plentiful Banquet; and at other times they scarce get every one a taste : But be it little or much that they get, every one has his part, as well the young and tender, the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, as the strong and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next Low-water, and then all that are able march out, be it Night or Day, rain or shine, 'tis ail one ; they must attend the Wares, or else they must fast : For the Earth affords them no Food at all. There is neither Herb, Root, Pulse nor any sort of Grain for them to eat, that we saw ; nor any sort of Bird or Beast that they can catch, having no Instruments wherewithal to do so. I did not perceive that they did worship any thing. These poor Creatures have a sort of Weapon to defend their Ware, or fight with their Enemies, if they have any that will interfere with their poor Fishery. They did at » Weirs. 454 I THEIR ARMS— HOW INDIANS GET FIRE first endeavour with their Weapons to frighten us, who a«. lying tshore deteir'd them from one of their Fishing- '^^ places. Some of them had wooden Swords, others had a sort of Lances, The Sword is a piece of Wood shaped somewhat like a Cutlass. The Lance is a long strait Pole sharp at one end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no Iron, nor any other sort of Metal ; therefore it is pro- bable they use Stone-Hatchets, as some Indians in America do, described in Chap. IV. How they get their I'ire I know not; but, probably, as Indians do, out of Wooi/iV5.). ■ A foonb, a Mr. Stepben Oftcku, "wu mindnl to come but wu dad to IM coamuy ' {Origimit USX 469 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Surgeon. At last the Surgeon leapt into the Ctnoa, and '^^ taking up my Gun, swore he would go ashcx^, and that if any Man did oppose it, he would shoot him : But John Oliver, who was then Quarter-master, leapt into the Canoa, taking hold of him, took away the Gun, and with the help of two or three more, they dragged him agun into the Ship. Then Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I were again sent ashore ; and one of the Men that rowed us ashore stole an Ax, and gave it to us, knowing it was a good Commodity with the Indians. It was now dark, therefore we lighted a Candle,^ and I being the oldest stander in our new Country^ conducted them into one of the Houses, where we did presently hang up our Hammocks. We had scarce done this before the Oinoa came ashore again, and brought the 4 Malayan Men belonging to Achin, (which we took in the Proe we took off of Sumatra) and the Portuguese . that came to our Ship out of the Siam Jonk at Pulo Gmdore : the Crew hairing no occasion for these, being leaving the Malayan Parts, where the Portuguese ' Spark served as an Interpreter ; and not fearing now that the Achinese could be serviceable to us in bringing us over to their Country, 40 Leagues off; nor imagining that we durst make such an attempt ; as indeed it was a bold one. Now we were Men enough to defend our selves against the Natives of this Island, if they should prove our Enemies : though if none of these Men had come ashore to me, I should not have feared any danger. Nay, perhaps less, because I should have been cautious of giving any offence to the Natives : and I am of the Opinion, that there are no People in the World so barbarous as to kill a single Person that falls accidentally into their Hands, or comes to live among them ; except they have before been injured, by some out- rage, or violence committed against them. Yet even then, or afterwards, if a Man could but preserve his Life from their first rage, and come to treat with them (which is the hardest thing, because their way is usually to abscond, and 1 "We brought away candles with us" {Original MS ^, 470 ' OF THE REPORTS ABOUT CANNIBALS rushing suddenly u their Enemy to kill hirr t unawares; one might, by some slight, insinuate ones self into their '^* Favours again, KspccialTy by shewing some Toy, or Knack that they did never see before : which any European, that has seen the World, might soon contrive to amuse them withal : as might be tione, generally even with a little Fire struck with a Flint and Steel. As for the common Opinion of Anthropophagi, or Man- eaters, I did never meet with any such People : All Nations or Families in the World, that I have seen or heard of, having some sort of Food to live on, either Fruit, Grain, Pulse, or Roots, which grow naturally or else planted by them ; if not Fish and Land-Animals besides ; (yea, even the people of New- Holland, had Fish amidst all their Penury) and would scarce kill a Man purposely to eat him. 1 know not what barbarous Customs may formerly have been in the World ; and to Sacrifice their Enemies to their Gods, is a thing hath been much talked of, with Relation to the Savages of America. 1 am a Stranger to that also,^ if it be, or have been customary in any Nation there ; and yet, if they Sacrifice their Enemies, it is not necessary they should Eat them too. After all, 1 will not be peremptory in the Negative, but 1 speak as to the compass of my own Knowledge, and know some of these Cannibal Stories to be false, and many of them have been disproved since I first Went to the Wcst-lndies. At that time, how Bart»rous were the poor Florida Indians' accounted, which now we find to be civil enough.* What strange Stories have we heard of the Indians, whose Islands were called the Isles of Cannibals.' Yet we find that they do Trade very civilly with the French and Spaniards ; and have done so with us. I do own that they have formerly endeavoured to ' See De Bry. Cf. alio the Hawkins Voyaucs : " Tho*e people of Uic Cap« of riarida xk of mure Mvojte and firnrc rututc. and more tnlionl, Ihui any of ihe rut Thi* mn ate eaieri ai ihe flcth of men u well as ihe cannibalt," 'The C«ribboe Itlandk Ii^hii H.i*;.,ris .:ill* (hnt mhabiinnii "ihe men (inpcnitc KBrricn thai > of SpanUtdi. Indian*, and .' a and uurdy wock, v«n ' frim and i>) turkcri both ; hey were of a I inhabited the CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. destroy our Plantations at Barbadoes, and haire duice *^^ hindred us from settling the Island Santa Lucia by destroy-* ing two or three Colonies successively of those that were settled there ; and even the Island Tabago Jbas been c^ten annoyed and ravaged by them, when settled by the Dutch, and still lies waste (though a delicate fruitful Island) as being too near the Giribb^ on the Continent, who vi^t it every Year. But this was to preserve thdr own right, by endeavouring to keep out any that would settle themselves cm those Islands, where they had planted themselves ; yet even these People would not hvut a sii^le Person, at I have been told by some that have been Prisoners amcmg them. I could instance also in the Indians of Boa:a Toro, and Bocca Drago, and many other Places where they do live as the Spaniards call it. Wild and Savage: yet there they have been familiar with Privateers, but by Abuses have withdrawn their Friendship again. As far these Nicobar Pec^le, I found them Amible enough, and there- fore I did not fear them, but I did not much care whether I had gotten any more Company or no. But however, I was very well satisfied, and the rather because we were now Men enough to row our selves over to the Island Sumatra ; and accordingly we presently con- sulted how to purchase a Canoa of the Natives. It was a fine clear Moon-light Night, in which we were left ashore. Therefore we walked on the sandy Bay to watch when the Ship would weigh and be gone, not thinking our selves secure in our new-gotten Liberty till then. About II or 12 a Clock we saw her under Sail, and then we returned to our Chamber, and so to sleep. This was the 6th of May. The next Morning betimes, our Landlord, with 4 or 5 of his Friends, came to see his new Guests, and was somewhat surprized to see so many of us, for he knew of no more but my self. Yet he seemed to be very well pleased, and entertain'd us with a large Calabash of Toddy, which he brought with him. Before he went away again, (for wheresoever we came they left their houses to us, but whether out of Fear or Superstition I know not) we bought 472 THEY SET OUT IN A BOAT a Canoa of him for an Ax. and wc did presently put our ai^ Chests and Cloaths in it, designing to go to the South-end '^' of the Island, and lye there till the Monsoon shifted, which wc expected every day. When our things were stowed away, wc with the Achincse entered with joy into our new Frigot. and launched off from the Shore. Wc were no sooner off, but our Csnoa overset, bottom upwards. Wc preserved our Lives well enough by Swimming, and dragged also our Chests and Cloaths ashore ; but all our things were wet. 1 had nothing of value but my Journal and some Drafts of Land of my own taking, which I much prized, and which I had hitherto carefully preserved. Mr. Hall had also such another Cargo of Books and Drafts, which were now like to perish. But we presently opened our Chests and took out our Books, which, with much ado, we did afterwards dry ; but some of our Drafts that lay loose in our Chests were spoiled. We lay here afterwards 3 days, making great Fires to dry our Books. The Achincse in the meantime fixt our Canoa, with Outlagcrs on each side; and they also cut a good Mast for her, and made a substantial Sail with Mats. The Canoa being now very well fixt, and our Books and Cloaths dry, we launched out the second time, and rowed towards the East-side of the Island, leaving many Islands to the North of us. The Indians of the Island accompanied us with 8 or 10 Canots against our desire; for we thought that these Men would make Provision dearer at that side of the Island wc were going to, by ?;iving an account what rates we gave for it at the place rom whence we came, which was owing to the Ships being there ; for the Ships Crew were not so thrifty in bargaining (as they seldom are) as single Pers4:ms, or a few Men might be apt to be, who would keep to one bargain. Thcrcmre to hinder them from going with us, Mr. Hall scared one Canoas Crew, by firing a shot over them. They all leapt ovcrbotutl, and cried out, but seeing us row away, they got into their Canoa again uvi e after us. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The firing of that gun made all the Inhalntants of the '^^ Island to be our Enemies. For presently after this we put ashore at a Bay where were four Houses, and a great many Gmoas : but they all went away, and came near us no more for several Days. We had then a great Loaf of Melory which was our constant Food ; and if we had a mind to Coco-Nuts, or Toddy, our Malayans of Adun would climb the Trees, and fetch as many Nuts as we would have, and a good Pot of Toddy every Morning* Thus we lived till our Melory was almost spent ; bdng still in hopes that the Natives would come to us, and sell it at they had formerly done. But they came not to us; nay they opposed us where-ever we came, and often shaking their Lances at us, made all the shew of hatred that they could invent. At last, when we saw that they stood in opposition to us, we resolved to use force to get some of their Food, if we could not get it other ways. VTith this Resolution we went into our Gmoa to a small Bay, on the North part of the Island ; because it was smooth Water there and good landing; but on the other side, the Wind being yet on that Quarter, we could not land without jeopardy of over- setting our Canoa, and wetting our Arms, and then we must have lain at the mercy of our Enemies, who stood 2 or 300 Men in every Bay, where they saw us coming, to keep us off. When we set out, we rowed directly to the North end, and presently were followed by 7 or 8 of their Canoas. They keeping at a distance, rowed away faster than we did, and got to the Bay before us; and there, with about 20 more Ginoas full of Men, they all landed, and stood to hinder us from landing. But we rowed in, within a hundred yards of them. Then we lay still, and I took my Gun, and presented at them ; at which they all fell down flat on the Ground. But I turn'd my self about, and to shew that we did not intend to harm them, I fired my Gun off to Sea ; so that they might see the Shot graze on the Water. As soon as my Gun was loaded again, we rowed gently in ; at which some of them withdrew. The rest standing up, 474 I THEY DESIGN FOR ACHIN 1 did still cut and hew the Air, making Signs of their hatred ; ak. til) 1 once more frighted thcni with my Gun, and dis- '*** charg'd it as before. Then more of them sneak'd away, leaving only J or 6 Men on the Bay. Then wc rowed in i again, and Mr. Hall taking his Sword in his Hand, leapt I ashore; and I stood ready with my Gun to 6re at the M Indians, if they had injured him : But they did not stir, till fl he came to them and saluted them. H He shook them by the Hand, and by such signs of H Friendship as he made, the Peace was concluded, ratified ■ and confirmed by all thai were present : And others that I were gone, were again call'd back, and they all very joy- M fulty accepted of a Peace. This became universal over all H the Island, to the great joy of the Inhabitants. There was H no ringing of Bells nor Bonfires made, for that is not the V Custom here; but Gladness appcar'd in their Countenances, for now they could go out and fish again, without fear of being taken. This Peace was imt more welcome to them than to us ; for now the Inhabitants brought their Melory again to us ; which wc bought for old Rags, and small stripes of Cloath, about as broad as the Palm of ones Hand. I did not see above five or six Hens, for they have but J few on the Island. At some places we saw some small I Hogs, which wc would have bought of them reasonably; I but wc would not ofltnd our Achinese Friends, who were I Mahometans. I We stayed here two or three days and then rowed " toward the South-end of the Island, keeping on the East- side, and We were kindly received by the Natives wherc- evcr we came. When we arrived at the South-end of the Island, we fitted our selves with Melory and Water. We bought 3 or 4 Loaves of Melory. and about la large Coco- nut shells, that had all the Kernel uken out, yet were preserved whole, except only a small hole at one end; and all these held for us aboui 3 gallons and a half of Water. Wc bought also 2 or 3 Bambocs, that held about 4 or 5 Gallons more : This was our Sea-store. Wc now designed to go 10 Achin, * Town on the N. W. end of the IsUnd Sumatra, distant from hence CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. about 40 leagues, bearing South South East. We only 1688 waited for the Western Monsoon, which we had expected a great while, and now it seemed to be at hand ; for the Clouds b^an to hang their Heads to the Eastward, and at last moved gently that way ; and though the Wind was still at East, yet this was an infallible Sign^ that the Western Monsoon was nigh. ' ^ An infiiUiblc Sign ** at all times of an impending change of wind. 47 76 CHAP. XVllI t Author, with umt tthrr^ finis to Sea in an ofien Boat, dtiigmng far Achin. Their /tcfommodatiom fir ihr'ir Ftyagt. Change of lytalhtr ; it Hah ahoul the Sun, anU a vioUnt Storm. ThAr great Danger and Ditlrrti, Cudito, a Tamn and Harbour an the Coail of Malacca. Pulo IVay. Golden Mountain on the hit of Sumatra : River and Town of Paiiengf-Jonea, on Sumatra, near Diamond-point ,■ where thrjgo aihort very lick, and art iind/y tnttr- taintd by the Oromiay, and Inhaiilanli. They go ihenct to Achin. Thr Author it examined hefori the Shatandtr ; and tain Phyiid of a Malayan Doctor. Hit long l/ltirii. He lett out toward) fficoiar again, hut rtturm suddenly to Achin Road. He makes several ytyagti tktnci, ti Tonqutrn, to Malacca, to Fort Si, Gforgt, and to Bencoufi, an English Factory on Sumatra. An Account of iht Ship's Crew who set the Author ashore at Nicohar. Some go to Trangambar, a Danish Fort on CeromanAel ; otheri to Fort St. Gttrgt ! many It the Mogul's Camp. Of the Ptuns ; and how John Oliver made himsflf a Captain. Capt. Read, with the rest, /saving plundered a riih Portuguese Ship near Ceylon, goes to .Mad- agatair, and ships himself off ihencr in a Nrw-Tori Ship. Tht Traverses of tht reit te Johanna, (Jc. Their Ship, tht Cygnet of Londtn, now lies sunt in Augustin Bay at Madagascar, Of Printt Jeoly, the painted Man, whom Ihe Author brought ivith him to England, and who died at Oxford. Of hit Country the lilt of Meangii I tht CInits there, ld(. The Author is made Gunner of BtneanS, but it forced to slip away from thence to come far England. IT was the 15th diy of May, 1688, about four a Clock ak. in the Afternoon, when wc left Nkobar Island, ■'■** directing our Course towards Achin, being eight Men of us in Company, viz., three English, four Malayans, who were born at Achin, and the Mungrel Portuguese. 477 r CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ^^ Our Vessel, the Nicobar Canoa, was not one of the i6ss l^gg^t, nor of the least size : She was much about the Burthen of one of our London Wherries below Bridge, and built sharp at both ends, like the fore part of a Wherry. She was deeper than a Wherry, but not so broad, and was so thin and light, that when empty, four Men could launch her, or hale her ashore on a sandy Bay. We had a good substantial Mast, and a Mat Sail, and good Outlagers lash*d very fast and firm on each side the Vessel, being made of strong Poles. So that while these continued firm the Vessel could not overset, which she would easily have done ^ without them, and with them too had they not been made very strong ; and we were therefore much beholding to our Achinese Companions for this Contrivance. These Men were none of them so sensible of the Danger as Mr. Hall and my self, for they all confided so much in us, that they did not so much as scruple anything that we did approve of. Neither was Mr. Hall so well provided as I was, for before we left the Ship, I had purposely consulted our Draft of the East-Indies, (for we had but one in the Ship) and out of that I had written in my Pocket-book an account of the bearing and distance of all the Malacca Coast, and that of Sumatra, Pegu, and Siam, and also brought away with me a Pocket-Compass for my Direction in any Enterprize that I should undertake. The Weather at our setting out was very fair clear and hot. The Wind was still at S. E. a very small Breeze, just fanning the Air, and the Clouds were moving gently from West to East, which gave us hopes that the Winds were either at West already abroad at Sea, or would be so in a very short time. We took this opportunity of fair Weather, being in hopes to accomplish our Voyage to Achin, before the Western Monsoon was set in strong, knowing that we should have very blustering Weather after this fair * The vessel being extremely crank, with gunnals "not above three inches above the water." The Nicobar boats are built, as a rule, for oars and paddles. The easterly monsoon does not reach these islands in its full force, owing to the presence of Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula directly to windward. As the islanders cannot depend on sailing-winds for at least half the year, they do most of their travelling under oars or paddles. 478 THEY PROCEED ON THEIR VOYAGE Weather, especially at the first coming of the Western as. Monsoon. '"" Wc rowed therefore away lo the Southward, supposing that when wc were clear from the Island wc should have a true Wind, as we call it; for the Land hales the Wind; and we often find the Wind at Sea different from what it is near the Shore. Wc rowed with 4 Oars, taking our turns: Mr. Hall and I steered also by turns, for none of the rest were capable of it. We rowed the first Afternoon, and the Night ensuing, about twelve Leagues by my Judgment. Our Course was South South East; but the 16th Day in the Morning, when the Sun was an Hour high, we saw the Island from whence we came, bearing N. W. by N. Therefore I found we had gone a point more to the East than I intended, for which reason we steered S. by K. In the Afternoon at 4 a Clock, we had a gentle Brcese at W. S. W. which continued so till 9, all which time we laid down our Oars, and steered away S. S. E. I was then at the Helm, and I found by the ripling of the Sea, that there was a strong Current against us. It made a great noise that might be heard near half a Mile. At 9 a Clock it fell calm, and so continued till 10. Then the Wind sprung up again, and blew a fresh Breeze all Night. The 1 7th Day in the Morning we lookt out for the Island Sumatra, supposing that we were now within 20 Leagues of it ; for we had rowed and sailed, by our reckoning, 24 Leagues from Nicobar Island ; and the distance from Nicobar to Achin is about 40 Leagues. But we lookt in vain for the Island Sumatra ; for turning our selves about, we saw, to our Grief Nicobar Island, lying W. N. W. and not above 8 Leagues distant. By this it was visible, that Wc had met a very strong Current against us in the Night. But the Wind frwhned on us, and wc made the best use of it white the Weather continued fair. At noon we had an ObKtvation of the Sun, my lat. was 6 d. 55 m. and Mr. Hall's was 7 d. N. The 1 8th Day the Wind freshned on us again, and the Sky began to be clouded. It was indifferent clear till Noon, and wc thought to have had an Obeervation ; but 479 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. wc were hindred by the Clouds that covered the Face of '^^ the Sun, when it came on the Meridian. This often happens that we are disappointed of making Observations, by the Sun*s being clouded at Noon, though it shines clear both before and after, especially in places near the Sun ; and this obscuring of the Sun at Noon, is commonly sudden and unexpected, and for about half an hour or more. We had then also a very ill Presage, by a great Circle about the Sun (5 or 6 times the Diameter of it) which seldom appears, but storms of Wind, or much Rain ensue. Such Circles about the Moon are more frequent, but of less import. We do commonly take great notice of these that are about the Sun, observing if there be any Breich in the Circle, and in what Quarter the Breach is ; for from thence we commonly find the greatest stress of the Wind will come. I must confess that I was a little ansdous at the sight of this Circle, and wishM heartily that we were near some Land. Yet I shewed no sign of it to discourage my Consorts, but made a Vertue of Necessity, and put a good Countenance oa the Matter. I told Mr. Hall, that if the Wind became too strong and violent, as I feared it would, it being even then very strong, we must of necessity steer away before the Wind and Sea, till better Weather presented; and that as the Winds were now, we should, instead of about 20 Leagues to Achin, be driven 60 and 70 Leagues to the Coast of Cudda,^ or Queda, a Kingdom, and Town, and Harbour of Trade on the Coast of Malacca. The Winds therefore bearing very hard, we rolled up the Foot of our Sail on a Pole fastned to it, and settled our Yard within three Foot of the Canoa sides, so that we had now but a small Sail ; yet it was still too big, consider- ing the Wind ; for the Wind being on our broad side, prest her down very much, tho* supported by her Outlagers; insomuch that the Poles of the Outlagers going from the sides of their Vessel, bent as if they would break; and > Kedah, or Old Kcdah, on the Malay Peninsula, in lat 5° 48* N, long. 100° 48' E. 480 null Hbic I THEIR DANGER INCREASES should they have broken, our overturning and perishing had been inevitable. Besides, the Sea cncreasing, would ' soon have filled the Vessel this way. Yet thus wc mule a shift to bear up with the side of the Vessel against the Wind for a while; But the Wind still increasing, afKim one a Clock in the Afternoon wc put away right before Wind and Sea, continuing to run thus all the Afternoon, ■d part of the Night ensuing.' The Wind continued icreasing all the Aftenioon, and the Sea still swelled higher, and often broke, but did us no damage ; for the ends of the Vessel being very narrow, he that steered received and broke the Sea on his back, and so kept it from coming in so much as to endanger the Vessel ; Though much Water would come in, which we were forced to keep heaving out continually. And by this time we saw it was well that we had altered our Course, every Wave would tise have fiU'd and sunk us, taking the side of the Vessel : And though our Outlagers were well lash'd down to the Canoas bottom with Rattans, yet they must probably have yielded to such a Sea as this ; when even before they were plunged under Water, and bent like twigs. The Evening of this i8th day was very dismal. The !€ky look'd very black, being covered with dark Clouds, the Wind blew hard, and the Seas ran high. The Sea was already roaring in a white Foam about us; a dark Night coming on, and no Land in sight to shelter us, and our little Ark in danger to be swallowed by every Wave; and, what was worst of all, none of us thought our selves prepared for another World. The Reader may better guess than I can express, the Confusion that we were all in. I had been in many eminent Dangers before now, some of which 1 have already related, but the worst of them all was but a Play-game in comparison with this. ! must confess that I was in great Conflicts of Mind at this time. Other Dangers came not upon me with such a leisurely and dreadful Solemnity. A sudden Skirmish or Engagement, ' They were in one of the very violeni local south -westerly or wesi-souih- westerly gales known as " Sumutras," VOL. I. 481 2 H CAPTAIN DAMPIER*S VOYACSil AN. or so, was nothing when ones Blood was up, and poshM i^s forwards with eager Expectations. But here I nad a lingring view of approaching Death, and little or no hopes of escaping it ; and I must confess that my Gotirage, which I had hitherto kept up, failed me hare ; and I imide Tery sad Reflections on my former lif e, and look'd back mth Horror and Detestation, on Actions which before I dis- liked, but now I trembled at the remembrance of. T had long before this repented me of that roving course of Lifc^ but never with such concern as now. I did also call to mind the many nuraculous Acts of God's Providence * towards me in the whole course of my Life, of whichi Idnd I believe few Men have met with the like. For all these I returned Thanks in' a peculiar Manner, and thb once more desired God*s As^tance, and composed my Mind, as well as I could, in the hopes of it, and as the Event shewed, I was not disappointed of my hopes. Submitting our selves therefore to God's good Provi- dence, and taking all the Gu-e we could to preserve our Lives, Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer, and the rest took turns to heave out the Water, and thus we provided to spend the most doleful Night I ever was in. About lo a Clock it began to Thunder, Lighten, and Rain ; but the Rain was very welcome to us, having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island. The Wind at first blew harder than before, but within half an hour it abated, and became more moderate; and the Sea also asswaged of its Fury ; and then by a lighted Match, of which we kept a piece burning on purpose, we looked on our Compass, to see how we steered, and found our Course to be still East. We had no occasion to look on the Compass before, for we steered right before the Wind, which if it shifted we had been obliged to have altered our Course accordingly. But now it being abated, we found our Vessel lively enough with that small Sail which was then aboard, to hail to our former Course, S. S. E. which accordingly we did, being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra. But about 2 a clock in the Morning of the 19th day, 482 HARD RAINS— THEY SEE LAND we had another Gust of Wind, with much Thunder, Lightning »nd Rain, which lasted till Day, and obliged us ' to put before the Wind again, steering thus for several Hours. It was very dark, and the hard Kain soaked us so thoroughly, that wc had not one dry Thread about us. The Kain chill'd us extrcamly ; for any fresh Water is much colder than that of the Sea. For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm, and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholsome for Man's Body. In this Wet starveling plight wc spent the tedious Night. Never did poor Mariners on a Lec-shore more earnestly long for the dawning Light then we did now. At length the Day appeared ; but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon, that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high ; which was dreadful enough ; for it is a common Saying among Seamen, and true, as I have experienced, that a high Dawn will have high Winds, and a low Dawn, small Winds. We continued our Course still Kast, before Wind and Sea, till about 8 a Clock in the morning of this 19th day; and then one of our Malayan Friends cried out, Pulo Way. Mr. Hall, and Ambrose and I, thought the P'cllow had said Pull away, an Expression usual among English Seamen, when they are Rowing. And we wondered what he meant by it, till wc saw him point to his Consorts; and then we looking that way, saw Land appearing, like an Island, and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra, called Way; for I*ulo Way, is the Island Way.' We. who were dropping with Wet, Cold, and Hungry, were all over-joyed at the sight of the Land, and presently marked its bearing. It bore South, and the Wind was still It West, a strong gale; but the Sea did not pun so high as in the Night. Therefore wc trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron, and steered with it. Now our Outlagcrs did us a great kindness again, for although we had but a small Sail, yet the Wind was strong, and prcst , down our Vessel's side very much : But being suppcu-ted ■ 11 is Mill ntlcd Way Itlaml. 483 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. by the Outlagers, we could brook it well enough, which '6*8 otherwise we could not have done. About Noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way; and steering towards it, before Night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra, and found the Errors of our Achinese; for the high Land that we first saw, which then appear'd like an Island, was not Fulo Way, but a great high Mountun' on the Island Suntatra, called l^ the English, the Golden Mountun. Our Wind continued tUt about 7 a Clock at night; then it abated, and at lo a Clock it died away : And then we stuck to oar Oact again, tbo all of us quite tired with our fmrade3 were gone very sick into the Country, and only one of them and the Portuguese ro* mained mih us, accompanying us to Achin, and uiey bodi as mck as we. It was the beginning of June, i68S, when we left Passange Jonca. We had 4 men to row, one to steer, and a Gentleman of the Country, that went purposely to give an Information to the Government of our Arrival. We were but three days and nights in our Passage, having Sea- breezes by day, and Land-winds by night, and very fair Weather. When wc arrived at Achin,' I was carried before the Shabander, the chief Magistrate in the City. One Mr. Dennis Driscal, an Irish-man, and a Resident there, in the Factory which our East India Company had there then, was Interpreter. I being weak, was suffered to stand in the Shabander's Presence : For it is their custom to make Men sit on the Floor, as they do, cross-legg'd like Taylors : But I had not strength then to pluck up my Heels in that manner. The Shabander asked of me several Questions, especially how we durst adventure to come in a Canoa from the Nicobar Islands to Sumatra. I told him, that I had been accustomed to hardships and hazards, therefore I did with much freedom undertake it. He enquired also ' Achin, or Acheen, lies at the N.W. end of Sumatra, between the King's Point and Point Gingion. It is built on three islands at the mouths of Uie Acbin River. In Dampier's time it was an important trading station, protected by a fort, 486 HE TAKES PHYSIC OF A MALAYAN concerning our Ship, whence she came, &c. I told him, ak. ' from the South Seas ; that she had ranged about the Philip- '^^ pine Islands, Sec. and was now gone towards Arabia, and the Red Sea, The Malayans also and Portuguese were afterward examined, and confirmed what 1 declared, and in less than half an Hour, I was dismist with Mr. Driscal, who then lived in the English East India Company's Factor)'. He provided a Room for us to lie in, and some Victuals. Three Days after our arrival here, our Portuguese died of a Fever. What became of our Malayans I know not, Ambrose lived not long after, Mr. Hall also was so weak, that I did not think he would recover. I was the best ; but still very sick of a Fever, and little likely to live. Therefore Mr. Driscal, and some other Knglishmcn, pcr- swaded me to take some Purging Physick of a Malayan Doctor. 1 took their advice, being willing to get Ease: But after three Doses, each a lai^e Calabash of nasty stuff, 6nding no amendment, I thought to desist from more Physick : but was pcrswadcd to take one Dose more ; which I did, and it wrought so violently, that I thought it would have ended my (lav's. I struggled till I hail been about 20 or 30 times at Stool : But it working so quick with me, with little Intermission, and my Strength being almost spent, I even threw my self down once for all, and had above 60 Stcxtls in all before it left off working. I thought my Malayan Doctor, whom they so much com- mended, would have killed mc out-right. I continued extraordinary weak for some days after his drenching me thus: But my Fever left me for above a week: After which, it rctunied upon mc again for a Twelve Month, and I Flux with it. However, when I was a little recovered from the Kffcas of my Drench, 1 made a shift to go abroad : And having been kindly invited to Capl. Bowrej-'s House there, my first visit was to him ; who had a Ship in the Road, but lived ashore. This Gentleman was extraoniinary kind to us all, particularly to me, and importuned mc to go his Boatiwun CoPenia; whither he was bound, with a design 487 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES to sell hU Ship there, as I was told, though not by himself!- ' ' From thence he intended to pass with the Caravan to Aleppo, and so home for England. His Business required him to stay some time longer at Achin ; I judge, to sell some Commodities, that he had not yet disposed of. Yet he chose rather to leave the disposal of them to some Merchant there, and make a short trip to the Nicobar Islands in the mean time, and on his return to take in his Edicts, and so proceed towards Persia. This was a sudden Resolution of Captain Howry's, presently after the arrival of a small Frigot from Siam, with an Ambassador from the King of ^m, to the Queen of Achin. The Ambassador was a Frmchman by Nation. The Vessel that he came in was but small, yet very well mann'd, and fitted for a Fight. Therefore it was generally supposed here, that Captain Bowry was afraid to lye in Achin Road, because the Siamers were now at Wars with the English, and he was not able to defend his Ship, if he should be attack'd by them. But whatever made him think of going to the Nicobar Islands, he provided to Sail ; and took me, Mr. I&li, and Ambrose with him ; though all of us M ^ck, and weak, that we could do him no service. It was sometime about the beginning of June when we sailed out of Achin Road : But we met with the Winds at N. W. with turbulent Weather, which forced us back again in two days time. Yet he gave us each 12 Mess apiece, a Gold Coin, each of which is about the Value of 1 5 d. English. So he gave over that Design : And some English Ships coming into Achin Road, he was not afraid of the Siamers who lay there. After this, he again invited me to his house at Achin, and treated me always with Wine and good Cheer, and still importuned me to go with him to Persia : But I being very weak, and fearing the Westerly Winds would create a great deal of trouble, did not give him a positive Answer ; especially because I thought I might get a better Voyage in the English Ships newly arrived, or some others now expected here. It was this Captain Bowry who sent the Letter from Borneo, directed to the Chief of the English 488 HIS VOYAGE TO TONQUEEN, ETC. Factory at Mindanao, of which mention is made in ah Chapter XIII. •'"" A short time after this, Captain Wcidcn arrived here from Fori St. George, in a Ship called the Curtana, bound to Tonquccii, This being a more agreeable Voyage than to Persia, at this time of the year; besides, that the Ship was better accommodated, especially with a Surgeon, and 1 being still sick ; I therefore chose rather to serve Captain Wcliicn than Captain Bowry. But to go on with a par- ticular account of that Expedition, were to carry my Reader back again : Whom having brought thus far towards England in my Circum-Navigalion of the Globe, I shall not weary him with new Rambles, nor so much swell this Volume, as I must to describe the Tour I made in those remote parts of the East Indies, from and to Sumatra. So that my Voyage to Tonquecn at this time, as also another to Malacca afterwards, with my observations in ihcm, and the descriptions of those and the Neighbouring Countries; as well as the description of the Island Sumatra it self, and therein the Kingdom and City of Achin, Bencouli, &c. I shall refer to another place, where I may give a particular Relation of iheni. In short, it may suffice, that I set out to Tonquecn with Captain Wcidcn about July 1688, and returned to Achin in the April following. I staid here 111) the latter end of September 1689, and making a short Vnyagc to Malacca, came thither again about Christmas. Soon after that, I went to Fort St. George, and Slaying there about five months, I returned once more to Sumatra ; not to Achin, but Bencouli, an English Factory on the West Coatt ; of which I was Gunner about five months more. So that having brought my Reader to Sumatra, without carrying htm back, I shall bring him on next way from thence to Kngland : And of all that occurr'd between my first setting mit from this Island in 1688. and my final de|unure from it at the beginning of the Year 1691, I shall only take notice at present of two Passages; which I think I ought not to omit. The fan. i>, Out at my return from Malacca, a little +89 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. before Chriscmas, 1689, 1 found ai Achin one Mr. Morgan, '*** who was one of our Ship's Crew that left me ashore at Nicobar, now Mate of a Danish Ship of Trangambar ; ' which b a Town on the Coast of Coromandel, near Cape Comorin, belonging to the Dane's : And receiving an account of our Crew from him and others, I thought it might not be amiss to gratifie the Readers Curiosity there- with ; who would probably be desirous to know the success of those Ramblers, in their new intended Expedition towards the Red Sea : And withal I thought it might not be unlikely that these Papers might fall into the hands of some of our London Merchants, who were concerned in fitting out that Ship; which 1 said formerly was called the Cygnet of Lxindon, sent on a Trading Voyage into the South Seas, under the command of Capt. Swan : And that they might be willing to have a particular Information of the fate of their Ship.* And by the way, even before this meeting with Mr. Morgan, while I was at Tonqueen, January 1689, I met with an English Ship in the River of Tonqueen, called the Rainbow of London, Captain Poole Commander; by whose Mate, Mr. Barlow, who was returning in that Ship to England, I sent a Pacquet, which he undertook to deliver to the Merchants, Owners of the Cygnet, some of which he said he knew : Wherwn I gave a particular account of all the Course and Trans- actions of their Ship, from the time of my first meeting it in the South Seas, and gable to manage the Company's Affairs, was ordered by the Govcrnour of Fort St. Gcoi^e, to prepare to go to Indraporc,* an English Factory on the West Coatt of ■ Sumatra, in order to succeed Mr. Gibbons, who was chief ■ of that Place. I By this time I was ver)- intimately acquainted with ' Mr. Moody, and was importuned by him to go with him, and to be Gunner of the Fort there. I always told him I had a great desire to go to the Bay of Bengal, and that I had now an offer to go thither with Capt. Metcalf, who wanted a Mate, and had already spoke to me. Mr. Moody, to encourage me to go with him, told me, that if 1 would go with him to Indrapore he would buy a small vessel there, and send me to the Island Meangis,' Commander of her ; and that I should carry Prince Jcoly and his Mother with mc (that being their Country) by which means I might gain a Commerce with his People for Cloves. This was a dcs^n that I liked very well, and therefore I consented to go thither. Il was some time in July 1690, when we went from Fort St. George in a small Ship, called the Diamentf, Capt Howcl Commander. We were about JO or 60 Passengers in all; some ordered to be left at Indrapore, and some at BcncouH : Five or six of us were Officers, the rest Soldiers to the Company. Wc met nothing in our Voyage that deserves notice, till we came abnrst of Indrtpore. And then the wind came at N. W. and blew so hard that we could not get in, but were forced ' For on iccooot at Jcoly, sc« ihc Anpradis. ' In the Tuhir snM[v CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. to bear away to Bencouli,^ another English Factory on the '^ same Coast, lying 50 or 60 Leagues to the Southward of Indrapore. Upon our arrival at Bencouli we saluted the Fort^ and were welcomed by them. The same day we came to an Anchor, and Captain Howel, and Mr. Moody, with the other Merchants went ashore, and were all kindly received by the Governour of the Fort. It was two days before I went ashore, and then I was importuned by the Governour to stay there, to be Gunner of this Fort; because the Gunner was lately dead : And this being a place of g r eater import than Indrapore, I should do the Company more Service here than there. I told the Governour, if he would augment my Sallary, which by Agreement with the Governour of Fort St. George I was to have had at Indrapore, I was willing to serve him, provided Mr. Moody would consent to it. As to my Sallary, he told me, I should have 24 Dollars per month, which wasT as much as he gave to the old Gunner. Mr. Moody gave no Answer till a Week after, and then, being ready to be gone to Indrapore, he told me I might use my own Liberty, either to stay here, or go with him to Indrapore. He added, that if I went with him, he was not certain, as yet, to perform his promise, in getting a Vessel for me to go to Meangis, with Jeoly and his Mother : But he would be so fair to me, that because I left Maderas on his account, he would give me the half share of the two painted People, and leave them in my Posses- sion, and at my Disposal. I accepted of the Offer, and Writings were immediately drawn between us. Thus it was that I came to have this Painted Prince, whose Name was Jeoly, and his Mother. They were born on a small Island called Meangis, which is once or twice mentioned in Chap. XIII. I saw the Island twice, and two more close by it : Each of the three seemed to be about four or five Leagues round, and of a good heighth. Jeoly himself told me, that they ail three abounded with Gold, Cloves, ^ Benkulen. 496 JEOLY, THE PAINTED PRINCE and Nutmegs: Kor I shewed him some of each sort several am. times, and he told mc in the Malayan Language, which '^ he spake indifferent well, Meun^is HutUa Ma4o(h Cbdt. aid ^am m£ b a }|en. Bat d» bf die wxf. He Mid also diax die CascooB of diase ockr Ues, and tltdr maimer r^ Irrio^ vas Eke dusn, and dnt tfacy woe the f/nly fetyfie with wbotn tbey had any Convcfsc : And that one time, as be, with his Father, Mother and Bmcber, with two Of three Men more wcic going to one of these ^/fher klands, they were driYcn by 2 strong Wind on the i^oM of Mindanao, where they were taken by the Fisher- men of that I»Und, and carried ashore, and sold as Slaves; thry ticirtg first ttript of their Gold Ornaments. 1 did not %ec any of the Gold that they wore, but there were great holeo in their Ears, by which it was manifest that they had W'rf'n tome Ornaments in them. Jeoiy was sold to one Michael a Mindanayan, that spoke good Spanish, and commonly waitcii on Raja Laut, serving him as our Intcr- (irctcr, where the Kaja was at a loss in any word, for 498 ectca to be pursued by them. They therefore turned back again ; for though their Ships were of a pretty good force, yet were they unfit for Fight ; as having great Loads of Goods, and many Passengers, Women ana Children, on board ; so they nut in at Fort St. George, and desiring the Governours Protection, had leave to anchor in the R<)ad, and to send their Goods and useless People ashore. There were then in the Road a few small English Ships : and Capt. Heath, whose Ship w«s a very stout Merchant man, and which the French Rclatcr calls the English Admiral, was just come from China ; but very deep laden with Goods, and the Deck full of Canisters of Sugar, which he was preparing to send ■shore. But before he could do it, the French appeared ; coming into the Road with their lower Sails and top Sails, and had with them a Fireship. With this they thought ' Montieur Dni]ue«iw'i "New Vayas^ V> 1 169a aiwl 1691 " wu fint publitlicd in Eii,:!.ir norf * it thnuoninl enoupi ; tnit the ir n ' - manderwa* afnid lo come to doM i)ii.i-' b«ilte wen» la have tslunt pbc* on thr • I'alkai. * Pon<^ I > -..-T.-.IX lA.'wPIZHr •.'■:• YAGE5 '.1 1^" i i.i*^^ T 1.1 ..'— a' lt -"^icjuoF. .r • * " .— — .... r " ">*w -*"''" '-.1 TT ^;i'~-^ r..i'-'"iil in -IICM1« ^y^^r^' LIT '.:= r.-^-.^i :.-.-:' .^:-:: r --iz :r riach :f the shot .:-r t:ie ^ ■ V « 1 ^ ^ ■ ■ ^^ ■ ■ m ir.'.u- r;ur .--'.'^n :i^.zz.r.:i, z:i^r :ur ■::se-^ v^iCies, iulI iwiv r. .ti-.ti ir.-i i.sy.riir. t-.t:: i.. i-eir Sails V^-tse. svtn :h:;:r T .^ zi..i:-7 Sai.i," v-icn is --'.c iisual, but when "^nics ir, ' ^j.T. ?t-xt t ', r'..n.tir.;i i*^*". -it'-iin Hist.t, "•'. TV-t-tstiUkiiri;^ rtis Siiir W3s so tiiavT i.-z :r.z-^rr.zrtz, zcr.Ji'^-tl r.:.t:ielr T^ry mvilv in the n^ht; ir.ii I'cn thi g-ir.:r :c :r the Fr:::tch w;:-t ab«jard the D'-;:ch C-^c.ntot :r2 ir.i ti-i hin, th-it ":f he would pursue t>.e.r., r.t v:t:'i stir.Li ".ut w:-:h thim to Sea, though he r.JLi "tTf !:tt!- '/^' it;:r iv'.ar:: . tit the D-:cr> Ccmmandir « p— - • * « , "7. iv * '> hr::^ t.".*."?".. ."ir. I t.fS "aTis tr.- 11X7. 7 It ''•T.icn trii r ■■ ' T ' ' ' * 1"^ y Lt ^ Cm ^ ' ^ ^«--^ •*■»■ ■-•«•» *a* »- — ^,* -_ • I ^ -—1 ^ ••^.J* *^^ I ll"**»l 'aV-' *a<'**" f'^*^ -••^-- -,•--.:. --.,.- U - -♦ - •■ h'.-.r> — /• ".>p> Bit *o rr^cte.i -^/i^". our V:.v2^e : We hai r*ot been iz 'vja ior.ir Sef^ri: o :r Men be^ar. "lo iroor, :r. a sort of Dis- *!'j';i;,il:;iiit, or n|*p«rr s.'iils, ucrc furled; the r ffiri .« -i " h.i'ilffi ii|i III thf liKiil. ;" anrl tlic topsail:-, atvl jih alone left rh.i-.viii}; I \ir .11 ti'iii (if (111- l-if-iK I) Admiral in loobijyf his top;^'aIlant sails W.I'; iliiMifnii immI, .111(1 lil:(;ly to Ik: Tuisiindcrilcy*^ ^ 506 A MORTALITY— BAD WATER Rivcr-watcr, wherewith our Ships were watered, was very unwholesome, it being mixt with the Water of many small Creeks, that proceeded from low Land, and whose Streams were always very black, they being nourished by the Water that drained out of the low swampy unwholesome Ground, I have observed not only there, but in other hot Countries also both in the East and West Indies, that the Land-floods which pour into the Channels of the Rivers, about the season of the Rains, are very unwholesome. For when I lived in the Bay of Campcachy, the Fish were found dead in heaps on the shores of the Rivers and Creeks, at such a season ; and many we took up half dead ; of which sudden mortality there appeared no cause, but only the malignity of the Waters draining ofl^ the Land. This haptens chiefly, as I take it, where the Water drains through thick Woods and Savannahs of long Grass, and swarapy Grounds, with which sonic hot Counirics abound : And I believe it receives a strong Tincture from the Roots of several kind of Trees, Herbs. &c. And especially where there is any stagnancy of the Water, it soon corrupts; and possibly the Serpents and other poisonous Vermin and Insects may not a little contribute to its bad {Qualities: at such times it will look very deep coloured, yellow, red, or black, &c. The season of the Rains was over, and the Land-floods were abating upon the taking up this Water in the River of Bcncouli : but would the Seamen have given themselves the trouble they might have fill'd their Vessels with excellent good Water at a Spring on the back- side of the Fort, not above 2 or 3CX5 paces from the Landing place ; and with which the Fort is served. And I mcntioti this as a caution to any Ships that shall go to Bcncouli for the future ; and withal I think it worth the care of the Owners or Governors of the Factory, and that it would tend much to the preservation of their Seamen's lives, to lay Pipes to convey the Fountain Water tu the Shore, which ~"ght easily \k done with a small charge : and had 1 staid _ r there 1 would have undenakcn il. I had a de»gn ^<^ bringing it into the Fon, tho* much higher: for it 507 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ! AM. would be a great convenience and security to it, in case of' 169" a Siege. 3 Besides the badness of our Water, it was slowed among ' the Pepper in the Hold, which made it very hot. Every * Morning when we came to take our Allowance, it was so hot that a man could hardly suflFer his hands in it, or hold a Bottle full of it in his hand. 1 never any where felt the like, nor could have thought it possible that Water should ' heat to that degree in a Ships Hold. It was exceeding ' black too, and looked more like Ink than Water. Whether it grew so black with standing, or was tinged with the Pepper, I know not, for this Water was not 90 black when it was first taken up. Our Food also was very bad ; for the Ship had been out of England upon tins Voyage above . three Years ; and the salt Provision brought from thence, and which we fed on, having been so long in Salt, was bat ordinary Food for sickly Men to feed on. Captain Heath, when he saw the misery of his Company, ordered his own Tamarinds, of which he had some Jus aboard, to be given Some to each Mess, to eat vrith tfa^ Rice. This was a great refreshment to the Men, and I do believe it contributed much to keep us on our L^. This Distemper was so universal, that I do believe there was scarce a Man in the Ship, but languished under it ; yet it stole so insensibly on us, that we could not say we were sick, feeling little or no pain, only a Weakness, and but little Stomach. Nay, most of those that died in this Voyage, would hardly be perswaded to keep their Cabbins, or Hammocks, till they could not stir about ; and when they were forced to lye down, they made their Wills, and piked off in two or three days. The loss of these Men, and the Weak languishing con- dition that the rest of us were in, rendered us uncapable to govern our Ship, when the Wind blew more than ordinary. This often happened when we drew near the Cape, and as oft put us to our trumps to manage the Ship. Captain Heath, to encourage his Men to their labour, kept his Watch as constantly as any Man, tho' sickly himself, and lent an helping hand on all occasions. But at last, almost 508 I CAPTAIN HEATH'S POLICY desf>atrtng of gaining his Passage to the Cape by reason i the Winds coming Southerly, and we having now been sailing '^'' 8 or 9 weeks, he called all our Men to consult about our safety, and desired every Man, from the highest to the lowest, freely to give his real Opinion and Advice, what to do in this dangerous juncture; for wc were not in a con- dition to keep out long ; and could we not get to Land quickly, must have [lerished at Sea. He consulted there- fore whether it were best to beat for the Cape, or bear away for Johanna, where wc might expect relief, that being a place where our outward bound East India Ships usually touch, I and whose Natives are very familiar: but other places, ' esjiecially St. Laurence, or Madagascar, which was nearer, was unknown to us, Wc were now so nigh the Cape, that with a fair Wind wc might expect to be there in 4 or 5 days ; but as the Wind was now, we could not hope to get thither. On the other side this Wind was fair to carry us to Johanna : but then Johanna was a great way off, and if the Wind should continue as it was, to bring us into a true Trade Wind, yet we could not get thither under a fortnight : and if we should meet calms, as we might probably expect, it might be much longer. Besides, wc should lose our passage about the Cape till October or November, this being about the latter end of March, for after the lOth of May, 'tis not usual to beat about the Cape to come home. All circumstances therefore being weighed and considered, wc at last unanimously agreed to prosecute our Voyage towards the Cape, and with patience wait for a shift of Wind. But Captain Heath, having thus far s«)unded the in- clination of his weak Men, told them, that it was not enough that they all consented to beat for the Cape, for Our desires were not sufficient to bring us thither; but that there would need a mure than ordinary labour and management from those that were able. And withal, for their encouragement he promised a months pay Gratis, to every man that would engage to assist on alt occasions, atHi be ready upon call, whether it Were his turn to watch or not; and this Money l)e promised to [lay at the Cape. Thi* offer wm fint embraced by some of the Officers, atid 509 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. then as many of the Men as found themselves in a captcity, '^^ listed themselves in a Roll to serve their G)mmander. This was wisely contrived of the Captain, for he could not have compeird them in their weak condition, neither would fair Words alone, without some hopes of a reward, have engaged them to so much extraordinary Work ; for the Ship, SsLil and Rigging were much out of repair. For my part, I was too weak to enter my self into that List ; for else our common safety, which I plainly saw lay at stake, would have prompted me to do more than any such reward would do. In a short time after tlus it pleased God to favour us with a fine Wind, which being improved to the best advantage by the incessant labour of these new listed men, brought us in a short time to the Cape. The night before we entered the Harbour, which was about the beginning of April, being near the Land, we fired a Gun every hour, to give notice that we were in distress. The next day, a Dutch Captain came aboard in his Boat, who seeing us so weak as not to be able to trim our Sails to turn into the Harbour ; tho* we did tolerably well at Sea, before the Wind, and being requested by our Captain to assist him, sent ashore for a hundred lusty Men, who immediately came aboard, and brought our Ship in to an Anchor. They also unbent our Sails, and did every thing for us that they were required to do, for which Capt. Heath gratified them to the full. These men had better stomachs than we, and eat freely of such Food as the Ship afforded : and they having the freedom of our Ship, to go to and fro between Decks, made prize of what they could lay their Hands on, especi- ally Salt-Beef, which our men, for want of stomachs in the Voyage, had hung up 6, 8, or lo pieces in a place. This was conveyed away before we knew it, or thought of it : besides, in the night there was a Bale of Muzlins broke open, and a great deal conveyed away : but whether the Muzlins were stolen by our own Men, or the Dutch I cannot say ; for we had some very dexterous Thieves in our Ship. Being thus got safe to an Anchor, the Sick were presently sent ashore to Quarters provided for them, and 510 I TEMPERATURE OF THE CAPE CLIMATE those that were able remained aboard, and had good fat an. Mutton, or frtsh Beef, sent aboarvi every day. I went ''">• ashore also with my Painted Prince, where 1 remained with him till the time of sailing again, which was about six Weeks. In which time I took the opportunity to inform my self what I could concerning this Country, which I shall in the next place give you a brief account of, and so make what haste I can home. The Cape of Good Hope is the utmost Bounds of the Continent of Africa towards the South, lying in 34 d. 30 m. S. lat. in a very temperate Climate. 1 look upon this latitude to be one of the mildest and sweetest for its temperature of anj whatsoever; and I cannot here but take Notice of a common prejudice our European Seamen have ts to this Country, that they look upon it as much colder, than Places in the same Latitude to the North of the Line. 1 am not of their opinion as to that : and their thinking so, I believe, may easily be accounted for from hence, that Whatcvijr way ihey come to the Cape, whether going to the East Indies or returning back, they pass through a hot Climate; and coming to it thus out of an extremity of heat, 'tis no wonder it it appear the colder to them. Some impute the coldness of the South Wind here to its blowing off from Sea. On the contrary, I have always observed the Sea Wmds to be warmer than I^nd Winds, unless it be when a bloom, as we call it, or hot blast blow from thence. Such an one we felt in this very Voyage, as we went from Cape Vcrd Islands, towards the South Seas ; which I forgot to mention in its proper place. Chap. 4th. For one aftcrnr«on about the 19th of Jan. 1683, in the lat. of 37 South wc felt a brisk (iale coming from off the Coast of America, but so violent hot, that wc thought it came from some burning Mountain on the Shore, and was like the heat from the mouth of an Oven. Just such another Gleam I fck one afternoon also, as I lay at Anchor at the Groin ' in July 1694, it came with a Southerly Wind : both pbelwcu) 1691 and 1697. S" i9B«Hn CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. these were followed by a Thunder shower. These were '^' the only great Blooms I ever met with in my Travels. But setting these aside, which are exceptions, I have made it my general observation, that the Sea-Winds are a great deal warmer than those which blow from Land: unless where the Wind blows from the Poles, which I take to be the true cause of the coldness of the South Wind at the Cape, for it is cold at Sea also. And as for the Coldness of Land-Winds, as the South West parts of Europe are very sensible of it from the Northern and Eastern Winds ; so on the opposite Coast of Virginia, they are as much pinched with the North West Winds, blomng excesdvely cold from over the Continent, though its Lat. be not much greater than this of the Cape. But to proceed : This large Promontory consists of high and very remarkable Land ; and off at Sea it afibrds a very pleasant and agreeable Prospect. And without doubt the Prospect of it was very agreeable to those Portuguese who first found out this way by Sea to the East Indies ; when after coasting along the vast Continent of Africk, towards the South Pole, they had the comfort of seeing the Land and their Course end in this Promontory : Which therefore they called the Cape de Bon Esperance, or of Good Hope, finding that they might now proceed Easterly. There is good sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 Leagues at Sea, to the Southward, and therefore our English Sea- men standing over as they usually do, from the Coast of Brazil, content themselves with their Soundings, concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape, they often pass by without seeing it, and begin to shape their course Northward. They have several other Signs whereby to know when they are near it, as by the Sea-P'owl they meet at Sea, especially the Algatrosses, a very large long winged Bird, and the Mangovolucres, a smaller Fowl. But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upor their observing the variation of the Compass, which is ver\ carefully minded when they come near the Cape, by takinc the Suns Amplitude mornings and evenings. This thei 512 ■ SOIL, FRUIT, AT THE CAPE ■ are so exact in, that by the help of the Azimuth Compass, am. an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nation, '^' ihcy know when they are abrcst of the Capw, or arc cither lo the East or the West of it : And for that reason, though j they should be to fiouthward of all the Soundings, or I fathomable Ground, they can shape their course right, ^ without being obliged to make the Land. But the Dutch on the contrary, having settled themselves on this Pro- montory, do always touch here in their East-India Voyages. both going and coming. j The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain, I steep to the Sea, with a flat even top, which is called the I Table Land. On the West side of the Cape, a little to I the Northward of it, there is a spacious Harbour, with I a low flat Island lying off it, which you may leave on ^ either hand, and pass in or out securely at either end. Ships that anchor here, ride near the main Land, leaving the Island at a farther distance without them. The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low ; but backt with J high Mountains a little way in, to the Southward of it. I The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour; not I deep, yet indifl^crently productive of Grass, Herbs and I Trees. The Grass is short, like that which grows on our I Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs. The Trees hereabouts I are but small and few ; the Country also farther from the I Sea, docs not much abound in Trees, as I have been I informed. The Mould or Soil also is much like this near " the Harbour, which though it cannot be said to be very fat, or rich Land, yet it is very fit for cultivation, and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman, and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms, Dutch Families, and French Refugees, for 20 or 30 leagues op the Country ; but there are but few Farms near the Harbour. Here grows plenty of Wheal, Barly, Pease, &c. Here arc also Fruits of many kinds, as Apples, Pears, Quinces, and the largest Pomgranatcs that I did ever see. The chief Fruits are Grapes. These thrive very well, and the Country is of Ute Years, so well stockt with L. 1. {I3 2 K 1. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Au. Vineyards, that they make abundance of Wine, of which **9* they have enough and to spare ; and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here. This Wine is like a French High-Country White-wine, but of a pale yellowish colour ; it is sweet, very pleasant and strong. The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Cows, Horses, &c. The Sheep are very large and fat, for they thrive very well here : This being a dry Country, and the short Pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures, but it is not so proper for great Cattle ; neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton. Of wild Beasts, 'tis said, here are several sorts, but I saw none. However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts, that prey on the Sheep, because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night, and penn'd up. There is a very beautiful sort of wild Ass in this Country, whose Body is curiously striped with equal Lists of white and black ; the Stripes coming from the Ridge of his Back, and ending under the Belly, which is white. These stripes are two or three Fingers broad, running Parallel with each other, and curiously intermixt, one white and one black, over from the Shoulder to the Rump. I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts, dried and preserved to be sent to Holland, as a Rarity. They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast, as big as a large Colt of a Twelvemonth old. Here are a great many Ducks, DunghU Fowls, &c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains. I eat of their Eggs here, and those of whom I bought them told me that these Creatures lay their E^ in the Sand, or at least on dry Ground, and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun. The Meat of one of their E^s will suffice two Men very well. The Inhabitants do pre- serve the Eggs that they find to sell to Strangers. They were pretty scarce when I was here, it being the beginning of their Winter ; whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas, which is their Summer. The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts; especially a small sort of Fish, not so big as a 5H ■ the dutch garden at the cape ■ Herring ; whereof they have such great Plenty, that they ah. pickle great Quantities yearly, and send them to Europe. '^' Seals are also in great Numbers about the Cape; which, as I have still observed, is a good sign of the Plentifulness of ■ Kiah, which is their Food. I The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side, against I the Harbour, where the Governour lives. At about 2 or I 300 Paces distance from thence, on the West side of the I Fort, there is a small Dutch town in which I told about ■ 50 or 60 Houses; low, but well built, with Stone-walls; I there being plenty of Stone, drawn out of a Quarry I close by. 1 On the backside of the Town, as you go towards the Mountains, the Dutch East India Company have a large House, and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone- wall. This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs, Flowers, Roots, and Fruits, with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbours ; and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains : which being cut into many Channels, is conveyed into all parts of the Garden. The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick, and 9 or to Foot high ; They arc kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning. There are lower Hedges within these again, which serve to separate the Fruit-Trees from each other, but without shading them : and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves, as Apples, Pears, abundance of Quinces, Pomgranales, 8cc. These all prosper very well, and bear good Fruit, especially the Pomgranate. The Roots and Garden-Herbs have also their distinct places, hedged in apart by themselves; and all in such order, that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful. There are a great number of ^Jegro Slaves brought from other parts of the World ; some of which are continually weeding, pruning, trimming and looking after it. All Strangers arc allowed the liberty to walk there ; and by the Servants leave, you may be admitted to taste of the Fruit : but if you think to do it clandestinely, you may be mistaken, is I knew one . when I was in the Garden, who took { or 6 Pom- 5>S CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. graaates, and was espy'd by one of the Slaves, and '^' threatned to be carry 'd before the Governour : I believe it coit him some Money to make his peace, for I heard no more of it. Further up from the Sea beyond the Garden, towards the Mountains, there are several other small Gardetis and Vineyards, belonging to private Men : but the Mountains are so nigh, that the number of them is but small. The Dutch that live in the Town get considerably by the Ships that frequently touch here, chiefly byentcrtainii^ Strangers that come ashore to refresh themselves; for you must give 3 s. or a Dollar a Day for your Entertainment; the Bread and Flesh is as cheap here as in England ; besides they buy good pennyworths of the Seamen, both outward and homeward bound, which the Farmers up the Country buy of them again at a dear rate ; for they have not an opportunity of buying things at the best hand, but must buy of those that live at the Harbour : the nearest Settle- ments, as I was informed, being 20 miles off. Notwithstanding the great plenty of Corn and Wine, yet the extraordinary high Taxes which the Company lays on Liquors, makes it very dear ; and you can buy none but at the Tavern, except it be by stealth. Thci« are but 3 Houses in the Town that sell strong Liquor, cme of which is this Wine-House or Tavern ; there they sell only Wine; another sells Beer and Mum; and the third selb Brandy and Tobacco, all extraordinary dear. A Flask of Wine which holds 3 quarts will cost 18 Stivers, fe» so much I paid foe it ; yet I bought as much for 8 Stivers in another place, but it was privately at an unlicenced House, and the Person that sold it, would have been ruined had it been known ; and thus much for the Country, and the European Inhabitants. 5.6 I I CHAP. XX Oflht Hotitral Inkahifanti ef tht Capt if Good Hopr, the NoJmaJodt or Htttanttti. Thrir P/nanagt^ Garh, htimtaring thrmuhirt ; thfir Chiilhing, Heuiti, Ftoti, way if Livings and Darning al tht Full »f tht Mttn : Cfmfiarrd in thmr r/tfittti with atker Nrgrees and U^ild Indiam. Captain Hrath rtfrnhts hit Mm at tht Caftt, and gttling lamt nurt Hands, dtparit in nmpany with tht James and Mvjr, and tht Josiah. A grtat tu/tlHng Sta from S. K^, Thfj arrivt at Santa Htlltna, and tbrrt mt/t with tht Prmcest Ann, hemtward bound. Tht Air, Situaticn, and Stil tf that Island, llf fint diun/trj, and thangt cf MaUtn linet. Haw thf Bnglith gat it. Ill Strength, Town, Inhahitanti, and tht Praduil 9/ thtir Plantatiam. Tht Santa Htlltna Manattt >u tthtr than ihi Sta Lian. Of the Englith fftmtn at ihii hit. Tht Engliih Ships rtfreih their Men here ; and depart all ttgtthtr. Of tht difftrtnl Caursti fram htait ta England. Tkfsr Cauru and arrival in tht Engliih Channel and the Dawni. THE Natural Inhabitants of the Cape arc the ; Hodmodods, as they are commonly called, which ■ is a corruption nf the Word Hottantot ; for this ■« the Name by which they call to one another, either in their Dances, or on any occasion ; as if every one of them had this for his Name. The Word probably hath some signification or other in their Language, whatever it is. These Hottantots are People of a middle Stature, with small Limbs and thin Bodies, full of activity. Their Kaccs arc of a flat oval Figure, of the Negro make, with great Eye-brows, black Eyes, but neither arc their Noses so flat, nor their Lips so thick, as the N^roes of Guinea. Their Complexion is darker than the common Indians; tho' not so black OS the Negroes or New Hollanders; neither ia their Hair so much frizled. 5*7 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. They besmear themselves all over with Grease, as well »*9» to keep their Joints supple, as to fence their half-naked Bodies from the Air, by stopping up their Pores. To do this the more effectually, they rub Soot over the greased parts, especially their Faces, which adds to their natural Beauty, as Painting does in Europe; but withal sends from them a strong Smell, which though sufficiently pleasing to themselves, is very unpleasant to others. They are glad of the worst of Kitchen-stuff for this purpose, and use it as often as they can get it. This Custom of anointing the Body is very common In other parts of Africa, especially on the Coast of Guinea, where they generally use Palm-Oil, anointing themselves from Head to Foot ; but when they want Oil, they make use of Kitchen-stuff, which they buy of the Europeans, that Trade with them. In the East-Indies also, especially on the Coast of Cudda and Malacca, and in general, on almost all the Easterly Islands, as well on Sumatra, Java, &c. as on the Phillipine and Spice Islands, the Indian Inhabitants anoint themselves with Coco-nut Oil, two or three times a day, especially Mornings and Evenings. They spend sometimes half an hour in chafing the Oil and rubbing it into their Hair and Skin, leaving no place unsmear'd with OU, but their Face, which they daub not like these Hottantots. The Americans also in some places do use this Custom, but not so frequently, perhaps for want of Oil and Grease to do it. Yet some American Indians in the North Seas frequently daub themselves with a Figment made with Leaves, Roots, or Herbs, or with a sort of red Earth, giving their Skins a yellow, red, or green Colour, according as the Hgment is. And these smell un- savourly enough to People not accustomed to them; tho' not so rank as those who use Oil or Grease. The Hottantots do wear no covering on their Heads, but deck their Hair with small Shells. Their Garments are Sheep-skins wrapt about their Shoulders like a Mantle, with the woolly sides next their Bodies. The Men have besides this Mantle a piece of Skin like a small Apron hanging before them. The Women have another Skin Sl8 THE HOTTANTOTS' GARB ' tucked about their Waists, which comes down to their . Knets like a Petticoat ; and their Legs arc wrapt round ' with Sheeps-guts two or three inches thick, some up as high as to their Calves, others even from their Feet to their Knees, which at a small distance seems to be a sort of Boots. These arc put on when they are green ; and so they grow hard and stiff on their Legs, for they never pull them off again, till they have occasion to cat them ; which is when they Journey from home, and have no other Food ; then these Guts which have been worn, it may be, six, eight, ten or twelve Months, make them a good Banquet: This 1 was informed of by ihe Dutch. They never pull off their Sheep-skin Garments, but to louse themselves, for by continual wearing them they are full of Vermin, which obliges them often to strip and sit tn the Sun two or three hours together in the heat of the day, to destroy them. Indeed most Indians that live remote from the Kquator, are molested with l.ice, though their Garments afford less shelter for Lice than these Hottantots Sheep-Skins do. For all those Indians who live in cold Countries, as in the North and South parts of America, have some sort of Skin or other to cover their Bodies, as Deer, Otter, Beaver or Seal Skins, all which they as constantly wear, without shifting themselves, as these Hottantots do their Sheep skins. And hence they arc lowsy too, and strong scented, though they do not dauh themselves at all, or but very little; for even by reason of their Skins they »mcll strong. The Hottantou Houses arc the meanest that I did ever see. They are about 9 or lo foot high, and 10 or iz from side to side. They are in a manner round made with ■mall Poles stuck into the ground, and brought together It the top, where they are fastened. The sides and top of the House are filled up with Boughs coursely watlcd between the Poles, and all is covercil over with long Grass, Rushes, and pieces of Hides; and the House at a distance appears just like a Hay-cock. They leave only a small hole tm one side about 3 or 4 foot high, for a door to creep in and out at; but when the Wind comes in at this door, they stop it up, and nuke another hole in the oppoute 5'9 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AH. nde. They make the Fire in the middle of the House, i^> and the Smoke ascends out of the Crannies, from all parts of the House. They have no Beds to lie on, but tumble down at night round the fire. Their Houshold Furniture is commonly an earthen Pot or two to boil Victuals, and they live very miserably and hard ; it is repOTted that they will fast two or three days together, when they travel about the Country. Their common Food is either Herbs, Flesh, or Shell- fish, which they get among the Rocks, or other places at low Water : For they have no Boats, Barlclc^s, nor Canoas to go a Fishing in; so that their chiefest subsistence is on Ijuid Animals, or on such Herbs as the Land naturally fffoduceth. I was told by my Dutch Landlord, that they kept Sheep and Bullocks here before the Dutch settled among them : and that the Inland Hottantots have still great stocks of Cattle, and sell them to the Dutch for Rolls of Tobacco: and that the price for which they sell a Cow or Sheep, was as much twisted Tobacco, as will reach from the Horns or Head, to the Tail ; for they are great lovers of Tobacco, and will do any thing for it. This their way of trucking was confirmed to me by many others, who yet said that they could not buy their Beef this cheap way, for they had not the liberty to deal with the Hottantots, that being a priviledge which the Dutch Elast-India Com- pany reserved to themselves. My Landlord having a great many Lodgers, fed us most with Mutton, some of which he bought of the Butcher, and there is but one in the Town ; but most of it he kill'd in the Night, the Sheep being brought privately by the Hottantots, who assisted in Skinning and Dressing, and had the Skin and Guts for their pains, I judge these Sheep were fetched out of the Country, a good way off, for he himself would be absent a day or two to procure them, and two or three Hottantots with him. These of the Hottantots that live by the Dutch Town, have their greatest subsistence from the Dutch, for there is one or more of them belonging to every House. These do all sorts of servile Work, and there take their Food and Grease. Three or Four more of the nearest 520 THEIR DANCING BY MOONLIGHT | iReUtions at at the Doors or near the Dutch House, waiting aw. fw the scraps and fragments that come from the Tabic ; '°9' tnd if between meals the Dutch People have any occasion for them, to go on Errands, or the like, they are ready at command; expecting little for their pains; but for a stranger they will not budge under a Stiver. Their Religion, if they have any, is wholly unknown to mc ; for they have no Temple nor Idol, nor any place I of Worship that I did see or hear of. Yet their mirth and 1 nocturnal pastimes at the New and full of the Moon, J lookt as if they had some Su|^er$tition about it. Kor at I the Full especially they sing and dance all Night, making I a great noise : I walked out to their Huts twice at these I times, in the Kvcning, when the Moon arose above the, I Horizon, and viewed them for an Hour or more. They I »cem all very busic, both Men, Women and Children, I dancing very oddly on the green Grass by their Houses. I They traced too and fro promiscuously, often clapping I their Hands and singing aloud. Their Faces were some- I limes to the East, sometimes tn the West : neither did I I •ec any motion or gesture that they used when their Faces I were towards the Moon, more than when their backs were toward it. After I had thus observed them for a while, I returned to my Lodging, which was not above 2 or 300 paces from their Huts; and I heard them Singing in the tame manner all Night. In the grey of the Morning I walked out again, and found many of the Men and Women still Singing and Dancing ; who continued their Mirth tilt the Moon went down, and then they left off: Some of them going into ihcir Huts to sleep, and others to their Utendance in their Dutch Houses. Other Negroes are less circumspect in their Night-Dances, as to the precise time of the Full Moon, they being more general in these Nocturnal Pastimes, and use them oftcncr; as do many People also in the East and West Indies : yet there is a difference between colder and warmer Countries as to their Divcrtiscmcnts. The warmer Climates being generally very prtxluctive u{ delicate Fruits, &c. and these un- civilized People caring for little else than what is barely 521 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM, necessary ; they spend the greatest part of their ^ttme m "9* diverting themselves, after their several Fashions; but the Indians of colder Climates are not so much at leisure, the Fruits of the Earth being scarce with them, and they necessitated to be continually Fishing, Hunting, or Fowling for their subsistence ; not as with us for Recreation. As for these Hottantots, they are a very lazy sort of People, and though they live in a delicate Country, very fit to be manured, and where there is Land enough for them, yet they choose rather to live as their Fore-fathers, poor and miserable, than be at pains for plenty. And so much for the Hottantots: 1 shall now return to our own Afikirs. Upon our arrival at the Cape, Captain Hoith took an House to live in, in order to recover his health. Such «f lus Men as were able did so too, for the rest he provided Lodgings and paid their Expences. Three or Four aC our Men, who came ashore very sick, died, l»it the rest, by the asustance of the Doctors of the Fort, a fine Air, uid good Kitchin and Cellar Pfayuck, soon recovered their Health*. Those that subscribed to be at all calls, and aansted to bring in the Ship, received Captain Heath's Bounty, by which they furnished themselves with Liquor for their homeward Voyage. But we were now so few, that we could not sail the Ship; therefore Captain Heath desired the Governour to spare him some Men ; and as I was in- formed, had a promise to be supplied out of the home- ward bound Dutch East-India Ships, that were now expected every Day, and we waited for them. In the mean time in came the yames and Mary, and the Jostah of London, bound home. Out of these we thought to have been furnished with Men; but they had only enough for themselves ; therefore we waited yet longer for the Dutch Fleet, which at last arrived : but we could get no Men from them. Captain Heath was therefore forced to get Men by stealth, such as he could pick up, whether Soldiers or Seamen. The Dutch knew our want of Men, therefore near 40 of them, those that had a design to return to 522 ■ THEY LEAVE THE CAPE I ^Europe, came privately and offered themselves, and waited am. ■ in the night at places appointed, where aur Boats went and '*9' fetched 3 or 4 aboard at a time, and hid them, especially when any Dutch Boat came aboard our Ship. Here at the Cape I met my Friend Daniel Wallis, the same who leapt into the Sea and swam at Pulo Condorc.' After several Traverses to Madagascar, Don Mascarin,' Pontichcrri, Pegu, Cunnimcrc, Madcras, and the River of Hugli, he was now got hither in a homeward bound Dutch Ship. I soon pcr- swaded him to come over to us, and found means to get i him aboard our Ship. I About the 13d of May we sailed from the Cape, in the I Company of the 'James and Mary, and the Joiia/i, directing our Course towards the Island Santa Hellena. We met nothing of remark in this Voyage, except a great swelling Sea, out of the S. W, which taking us on the Broad-side, made us rowl sufficiently. Such of our Water-casks as were between Decks, running from side to side, were in a short time all staved, and the Deck well washed with the Fresh Water. The Shot tumbled out the Lockers and Garlands ;' and rung a loud Peal, rumbling from side to side, every mwl that the Ship made; neither was it an casie matter to reduce them again within Bounds. The Guns, being carefully look'd after and lash'd fast, never budg'd, but the Tackles* or Pulleys, and Lashings, made great Musick too. The sudden and violent motion of the Ship, made us fearful test some of the Guns should have broken loose, which must have been very detrimental to the Ship's sides. The Masts were also in great danger to When attacked aboard the Malay veuel. The Mauritiui. 1 A garland wa* a grummel, or lope ring, within ohich shot could b« A " locket" for ahot tan found eadi hatdioray, and alanK the side* ' trf ihc iruD'dccki. * The ucklrs were thrt« in number: a tide-tackle on each tide of the KUn-farha^c, lo enable the };un'i crew lo nin ihc piece out oi in, and a tnin, i>r ptcventer tackle. In keep the nun (rum runnmit out too far with the roll (if the »hip. There were generally two laihingi : a breechinK. ninninK rinlil round the |[un to keep it elate to the ■hip'* iide, and a hoaunf or munle-lathinn, 10 tecure the gun'* munle to the upper part of ilie uort. The lattnamed wat, of counc, oM atide, when the gun fm pieparea for 533 Rs, CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. be rowl'd by the board ; but no harm happened to any of **** us, besides the loss of 3 or 4 Buts of Water, and a Barrel or 1 of good Cape Wine, which was staved in the great Cabbin. This great Tumbling Sea, took us shortly after we came from the Cape. The violence of it lasted but one Night ; yet we had a continual swelling came out of the S. W. almost during all the Passage to Santa Hellena ; which was an eminent Token that the S. W, Winds were now violent in the higher Latitudes towards the South Pole; for this was the time of the Year for those Winds. Notwithstand- ing this boisterous Sea coming thus obliquely upon us, we had fine clear Weather, and a moderate Gale at S. E. or between that and the East, till we came to the Island Santa Hellena, where we arrived the 20th day of June. There we found the Princess Ann at an Anchor, waiting for us. The Island Santa Hellena lies in about 1 6 Degrees South Lat. The Air is commonly Serene and Clear, except in the Months that yield Rain ; yet we had one or two very Rainy days, even while we were here. Here are Moist Seasons to Plant and Sow, and the Weather is Temperate enough as to Heat, tho' so near the Equator, and very Healthy. The Island is but small, nor above nine or ten Leagues in Length, and stands 3 or 400 Leagues from the Main Land. It is bounded against the Sea with step Rocks, so that there is no landing but at two or three places. The Land is high and Mountainous, and seems to be very dry and poor ; yet they are fine Valleys, proper for cultivation, The Mountains appear bare, only in some places you may see a few low Shrubs, but the Valleys afford some Trees fit for building, as I was informed. This Island is said to have been first discover'd and settled by the Portuguese, who stockt it with Goats and Hogs. But it being afterwards deserted by them, it lay waste, till the Dutch finding it convenient to relieve their East-India Ships, settled it again ; but they afterwards relinquished it for a more convenient place ; I mean the Cape of Good Hope. Then the English East-India Com- 524 PF SEVERAL OWNERS OF ST. HELENA ny settled their Servants there, and began to Fortify it, ah. ,t they being yet weak, the Dutch about the year 1672, '*9' came thither, and re-took it, and kept it in their possession. This News being reported in England, Captain Monday' was sent to retake it, who by the advice and conduct of one that had formerly lived there, landed a party of Armed Men in the night in a small Cove, unknown to the Dutch then in Garrison, and climbing the Rocks, got up into the Island, and so came in the Morning to the Hills hanging over the Kort, which stands by the Sea in a small Valley. From thence firing into the Fort, they soon made them surrender. There were at this time two or three Dutch East-India Ship, cither at Anchor, or coming thither, when our Ships were there. These, when ihcy saw that the English were Masters of the Island again, made sail to be gone ; but being chaccd by the English Frigots, two of them became rich Prizes to Captain Monday and his Men. The Island hath continued ever since in the Hands of the English East-India Company, and hath been greatly strengthened both with Men and Guns; so that at this day it is secure enough from the Invasion of any Enemy. For the common Landing-place is a small Bay, like a Half Moon, scarce 500 Paces wide, between the two Points. Close by the Sea-side are good Guns planted at equal distances, lying along from one end of the Bay to the other ; besides a small Fort, a little further in from the. Sea, near the midst of the Bay. All which makes the Bay so strong, that it is impossible to force it. I'he small Cove where Captain Monday landed his Men when he took the Island from the Dutch, is scarce fit for a Boat to land at ; and yet that is now also fortified. There is a small English Town within the great Bay, ttanding in a little Valley, between two high steep ' The ** Monday' i* Hicliard Manden (1640-1680). He atriwd ofT St. I Helms In Mty tili- He atiackcil 00 tlie Ath May, snd rapiumJ itir ■"'" d. t*j{fih«T «iih ihrcp Duich EJiit Indiaincn. He wnt knighted (or feat. DnlrTTBplv'i colltciioii of map* containi a plan at the uland ■\ag Munilvn'i lulvancr fftmi ih* "taull cove* 10 ibe fort. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. Mounduns. There may be about 20 or 30 small Houses, **9* whose Walls are built with rough Stones : The inside Furmture is very mean. The Governour hath a pretty tolerable handsome low House, by the Fort ; where he commonly lives, having a few Soldiers to attend him, snd to guard the Fort. But the Houses in the Town befctfe- mentioned stand empty, save only when Ships arrive here; for their Owners have all Plantations farther in the Island, where they constantly employ themselves. But when Ships arrive, they all flock to the Town, where they live all the time that the Ships lie here ; for then is their F«r or Market, to buy such Necessaries as they want, and to sell off the Product of their Plantations. Their Plantations afford Potatoes, Yames, and some Plantains and Bonanoes. Their Stock consists chiefly of Hogs, Bullocks, Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Geese, and Turkeys, of which they have great plenty, and sell them at a low rate to the Sailors, taking in exchange, Shirts, Drawers, or any light Cloaths ; pieces of Callico, Silks, or Muzlins: Arack, Sugar, and Lime-juice, is also much esteemed and coveted by them. But now they are in hopes to produce Wine and Brandy, in a short time : for they do already begin to plant Vines for that end, there being a few French Men there to manage that affair. This I was told, but 1 saw nothing of it, for it runed so hard when I was ashore, that I had not the opportunity of seeing their Plantations. I was also informed, that they get Manatee or Sea Cows here, which seemed very strange to me. Therefore enquiring more strictly into the matter, I found the Santa Hellena Manatee to be, by their shapes, and manner of lying ashore on the Rocks, those Creatures called Sea-lyons ; for the Manatee never come ashore, neither are they found near any rocky Shores, as this Island is, there being no feeding for them in such places. Besides, in this Island there is no River for them to drink at, tho* there is a small Brook runs into the Sea, out of the Valley by the Fort. We stayed here 5 or 6 days ; alt which time the Islanders lived at the Town, to entertain the Seamen ; who constantly 526 V THE WOMEN OF SANTA HELLENA ■flock : ' flock ashore, to enjoy themselves among their Country aw. People. Our touching at the Cajx had greatly drained the '*9' Seamen of their loose Coins, at which these Islanders as greatly repined ; and some of the poorer sort openly com- plained against such doings, saying, it was 6t that the East- India Company should Be acquainted wiih it, that they might hinder their Ships from touching at the Cape. Yet they were exireamly kind, in hopes to get what was remain- ing. They arc most of them very [x>or : but such as could get a little Liquor to sell to the Seamen at this time got what the Seamen could spare ; for the Punch Houses were never empty. But had we all come directly hither, and not touched at the Cape, even the poorest People among them would have gotten something by entertaining sick Men, For commonly the Seamen coming home, arc troubled, more or less, with Scorbutick Distempers ; and their only hopes are to get refreshment and health at this Island, and these hopes seldom or never fail them, if once they get footing here. E'or the Islands afford abundance " delicate Herbs, wherewith the Sick are first bathed to pple their Joints, and then the Fruits and Herbs, tnd fresh food soon after cure them of their Scorbutick Humour. So that in a Weeks time Men that have been carried ashore in Hammocks, and they who were wholly unable to go, have soon been able to leap and dance. Doubtless the serenity and wholesomencss of the Air coit- iributes much to the carrying off" of these Distempers; for here is constantly a fresh breeze. While we stay'd here, many of the Seamen got Sweethearts. One young Man belonging to the JamfS and Mary, was Married, and brought his Wife to England with him. Another brought his Sweetheart to England, they being each engaged by Bonds to Marry at their Arrival in England ; and several other of our Men, were over Head and Ears in Love with the Santa Hellena Maids, who tho' they were bom there, yet very earnestly desired to be released from that Prison, which they have no other way to compass, but by Marrying Seamen, or Passengers that touch here. The young Women born here, are but one remove from .~ u h CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Daughters of such. They are well shaped, proper and '*9' comely, were they in a Dress to set them off. My stay ashore here was but two days, to get Refresh- ments for my self and Jeoly, whom I carried ashore with me : and he was very diligent to pick up such things as the Islands afforded, carrying ashore with him a Bag, which the People of the Isle filled with Roots for him. They flockt about him, and seemed to admire him much. This was the last place where I had him at my own disposal, for the Mate of the Ship, who had Mr. Moodie's share in him, left him entirely to my management, I being to bring him to England. But I was no sooner arrived in the Thames, but he was sent ashore to be seen by some eminent Persons; and I being in want of Money, was prevailed upon to sell first, part of my share in him, and by degrees all of it.' After this I heard he was carried about to be shown as a Sight, and that he died of the Small-pox at Oxford. But to proceed, our Water being filled, and the Ship all stocked with fresh Provision, we sailed from hence in Company of the Princess Ann, the James and Mary, and the Josiah, July 2d, 1 69 1 , directing our course towards England, and designing to touch no where by the way. We were now in the way of the Trade Winds, which we commonly find at E. S, E. or S. E. by E. or S. E. till wel draw near the Line, and sometimes till we are 8 or ic d^rees to the North of the Line. For which reason Ship might shape their course so, as to keep on the African] shore, and pass between Cape Verd and Cape Verd Islands J for that seems to be the directest course to England. Buta experience often shews us, that the farthest way about is] the nearest way home, and so it is here. For by striving toj keep near the African Shore, you meet with the Windaj more uncertain, and subject to calms ; whereas in keeping the mid-way between Africa and America, or rather neareil the American Continent, till you are North of the Line,! you have a brisk constant gale. This was the way that we took, and in our passage} ' " I fell amongst rooks," says the MS. 528 i THEIR ARRIVAL IN THE DOWNS | before wc got to the Line, we saw three Ships, and making ak. towards them, wc found two of them to be Portuguese, '"'' bound to Brazil. The third kept on a Wind, so that we could not speak with her ; but we found by the Portuguese it was an English Ship, called the Dorothy, Capt. Thwart Commander, bound to the East Indies. After this we kept Company still with our Three Consorts till wc came near England, and then were separated by bad weather ; but before we came within sight of Land wc got together again, all but the yames and Mary. She got into the Channel J before us, and went to Plymouth, and there gave an account I of the rest of us; whereupon our Men of War who lay I there, came out to join us, and meeting us, brought us off of Plymouth. There our Consort the James and Mary came to us again, and from thence we all sailed in company of several Men of War towards Portsmouth. There our first Convoy left us, and went in thither. But we did not want Convoys, for our Fleets were then repairing to their Winter Iiarbours,' to be laid up; so that wc had the company of several English Ships to the Downs, and a Squadron also of Dutch sailed up the Channel, but kept off farther from our English Coast, they being bound home to Holland. When wc came as high as the South Foreland, we left them standing on their course, keeping on the back of the Goodwin Sands; and we lufft in for the Downs,* where we anchored September the i6th, 1691. ' The thipt of the Channel tquadrons home-porit during tb« winicf. ' Uu) Koad. t always "Eald-up" APPENDIX DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES f EDMUND COOK, OR COOKE Perhapc this Edmund Cooke was the Ednmod Cooke who wis at ds { time matter of the pink, yirgmy of London, 1670. Hu ship was taken \ j the Spaniards, ** about 40 leagues short of the Havana," on May 10, i6n. and her cargo of logwood, indigo, tortotae-sheD, fltc, made a prey, maflf and crew being turned adrift in the longboat. He went to Spain, all passed nine months in Madrid, TiinlT trying to get restitution. He ^ tried to get ** leuers of reprisal " ; and one concludes that he was suc( However, one cannot be certain that the two Edmund Cookes identical; though we know diat both came from London. The buccaneering Edmund Cooke was cruizing off Cartagena at the of the second sacking of Porto Bello, in 1679-80. He was the caj a ship of 3 $ tons and 43 men at '^ the general rendezrous of the fleet few weeks later at fioco del Toro. He crossed the Isthmus with Sawl and Sharp in command of their seventh company. He was apparently?! engaged at the battle of Perico, but he was given the command of a S| prize directly afterwards. He was turned out of this ship by his crei the end of May 1680. On the 6th of January 1681, he was pi irons for conduct unbecoming a buccaneer. He returned across the 1st with Dampier's party, and made one of the crew of the Baichelors Di I can trace no further adventures in which he had a hand. JOHN COOK Perhaps the Captain Cook who, in September 1679, took a cacao shallop on the coast of Cuba. He seems to have been a respe< merchant captain until he was forced to abandon his ship near Cura^oi order to escape some Spanish cruisers. He crossed the Isthmus with and Sawkins, and returned with Dampier's party. Dampier tells the of his subsequent career with Captain Yanky, and of the ruse by whi< took possession of Captain Tristian's ship. Wafer's narrative con! Dampier. In August 1683, he was captain of <'the good ship Revenge^** sailing from Accomac towards the South Seas. He r minded the Baichelors Delight until his death at or near Cape Bl (Gulf of Nicoya) in July 1684. 530 DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES JOHN COXON ler (at the L^nsa de TcrmiDot), and in a f at i*^^ Md for three yean later. A buccanm ing c^ Jinuica (villi a Preocb coninnuoa) in Auguii 1^76. Com- I •qnulnMi vfaictt umk lita. Martha I abovt j^to a man ; bat Coxon probably ) hero of thii raid. 1 of the Biahofi, whom ht c. got Mime tiling more "CoKOn and the Englixh with him did all." D Bello a " joo dacK> of indigo" in September 1679. Helped 1 Uke a later. Then croaoed the Inhmui with Sharp and 1 of 97 me». He had a quarrel with Feter Harrii E march, but Sharp iDicrfrted "atkd brought htm to be quiet." On ^ to win a good (poil it Sta. Maria he wia anxious to return to the , but on being made Gcoeial of the army he ironaentcd 10 cuntinue It the colottrk A> General, he carried the force before Pmania, to the e of Perictt. He took a (hate in that battle, but he cut »o poor a t betide Richard Sawltia* that many "tiickcd not to defame or brand the note of cowardice." Two or three dayi later, thit defamation im to withdraw from the army, with "ihc bett of the doctori" : 70 haadt. With iheie he returned acroii the Itthmui to hit I, loting leTcral men by the way. He wat chated by the J/imiir ftlgate, jT Point Negril, Jamaica, tn June or July 1680, but hit tliip wai fut. caped. He then seemi to hate obtained a commiiiion from the lor of the Bahama [ilands ''to make war on the Spaniard! of Cuba, , Augustine, and othcri " ; but before he had made much war he wii >cked by Sir Thornai Lynch, who cancelled the commiiiion, l.ynch 1681} then tent him to Honduras to fetch away nomc logwood 1 ; and for a little while he gave manifest tokens uf being a reformed er. " Hii men plotted to take the ship and gu privateering, but he y resitted, killed one or two with hi* own hand, forced eleven ovcr- I, and brought three here (Port Royal) who were condemned." Tiiii It pleaaed Lynch to much that he sent Coxon to periuadc Captain Yanky join him in an attack upon a iamout pirate ihip, La Tromffute, Capuio mrcns. However, in November 1683, "Coxon was again in rebctlioo"; X the part of tpy and goTcmment agent did not please him. In January ■ 686, be again became virtuous, and gave himielf up for trial at Jamaica, and was ordered to be tried at St. lago de la Vega " whete there will be few sympathisers among the jury." He must have been acquitted i for in Notcmber of that year he was logwood cutting in Camprachy, with another warrant out for hii apprehension as a pirate. Two or thrrc ihipt were deipiched in quest of him, but he put to sea, and »o eluded them. In September 1688, he surrendered to the Governor of Jamaica, and was sent to Lynch, with Eomc of his crew. Lynch was nut so hard-hearted as to hang him: but it is not known how he persuaded Lynch to let him ^o free. He was released with sufficient booty to purchase him a sloop, in \ 53" V1'»J tt»» " to „»? "1 K Tilde s o[ '* !■"<«, iM;f .6""" .VU»*« CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES aboard the Revenge and the Bauhelors Delight, After John Cook's death he was elected captain of the latter vessel ; and, as such, he commanded the buccaneer forces in their cruising in the Bay of Panama. Dampier was with him, and tells the story of his adventures in the South Seas until August 1685. When Dampier left Davis's ship to go aboard the Cygnet^ on her passage to the East Indies, Davis was about to sail from Rio Lejo. He sailed August 27, in company with William Knight, but a spotted fever broke out among his crew, so that he was forced to put in to Amapalla to recruit. He then sailed to Cocos, the Galapagos, Huasco, Pisco, and Juan Fernandez, at which last place Knight left him, to return home. After this, he went to Guayaquil, which had just been taken by Grogniet. He then made some further traverses in the Pacific, sighting what seems to have been Easter Island, before he returned to the West Indies, via Cape Horn. He then went to settle in Virginia, with Wafer and others ; bat in 1688-9 he was arrested for his piracies, narrowly escaped the gallows, and was sent home to England, with the others, to be tried in London. After some months in prison they were acquitted, and after long delay their confiscated booty was returned to them. In 1693 ^^ '^^y ^^^^ been in Virginia, collecting this plunder from the authorities who had impounded it. He then disappears for several years; but one gathers that Dampier met him frequently m London, in the years prior to his voyage in the Roebuck^ 1698-9. In 1702, Davis was in Jamaica. When the War of the Spanish Succession broke out, the Governor of Jamaica issued several commissions to privateers. Davis shipped aboard one of these privateers (a Captain Brown), and went with him to the plunder of Tolu, where Brown was killed. Afterwards the party sailed to '*the Samballoes," where they persuaded the Indians to lead them to the Spanish gold mines. The expedition obtained little gold ; but the narrative of the raid, as written by Davis two years later, is very curious and entertaining. It is not well written, and one or two phrases would seem to confirm De Lussan's state- ment that he was a foreigner. Nothing more is known of him. It may be added that he is sometimes spoken of as Nat, or Nathaniel Davis, from which we may infer thnt he was known to the buccaneers as Ned. JOHN EATON This may be the Captain John Eaton (master of a Virginia trader) mentioned in a letter from Clement Hill "from Maryland," May 18, 1682. A year later he seems to have been sailing from London, " to make his fortune in the South Seas/' in command of a ship called the Nicolas, Details of his voyage will be found in the papers concerning Charles Swan or Swann. He joined the Batchelor^ s Delight near Juan Fernandez (March 19, 1684) and consorted with her till September 2, when one of the common quarrels forced them to part company. He returned to Europe via the East Indies, committing many ** barbarous insolencies " at Guahan and elsewhere. See also the life of Ambrosia Cowley. 534 DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES BASIL RINGROSE Tht iiuthor of iltc Fourth Pan of the " Hinor)- of tite Buccaoecra." He doa Dot Item to bare heU any poiition of aucharity among the privaiccn t buE one guhfri thjt he had grtM phydcal tirmgth and rcmJtkaUe counge. He tirtt appear) "at ihe geocral rcndczvoua of the fleet '' at Boco del Toro in the nrly part of 1680. He wat then (appareniJy} newly arrived in the West Indiem. He croucd the httimu* with Sharp and bawkini, took a promiocai part in the baiilci of Pcrico and Arica, and returned to EnKUnd with Sharp in March 16^1. While in l^nglaod he wai probably tried for piracy with hi* old captain. nil Jouraal, which gi*e* a very clear, and wmetimet brilliant, accoum of hi* "daniterou voyage and bold agiault*," wa* publithcd io 1685 a* a coDtiDuatloo of the Engti*h traiulation of Gxquemliitg'" " Hittory of the Buccaneer*." Before it appeared, Ringroae had tailed a* lupercargo with Charle* Swan (f.v.) to that Bartholomew Sharp wa* able to make a few interpolation in the MS. It would appear that Ringroie wa* in «ome way imtru mental in the fitting out of the Cjjiari lor her trading voyage ; yet Danipier add* that he "had no mind tu thi* voyage," bui wat forced to engage in it or to itwe. In February 16861 he wa* ambuihed near Su. Pecaque, in Mexico. He wa> one of fifty-four buccaneers who lou their live* on thi) occwon. Dampirr *pcak* of Ringroie a* "my iogenJou* r ^^f A C^uia Sawkin*, a privatcrfi < ^H^Hr»f in November 1679. ^^ 1 can find ou other mention of him till we bear of him at the buccaneer miutei early io 1680. At Buco del Toro he coninunded a *hip of one gun and ;i; men. He croucd the lithmiu in command uf a division i and look a part in the battle of Perico, He ihowcd inch dopcntc latcnir in thi* iHllle ■hat the buccaneeii nude him their Admifal, alter the tediiion and delcciioa of -lohn Coxon. He wat kil'ed a few week* later in ihr fruiilei* attempt or Puel^o Nuevti {May 11. i^itto). Kingtotc call* liim "a valiant and geoeroui ^rited man, and beloved above any other we ever bad among »*." ■ BARTHOLOMEW SHARP, OR SHARPE Daranier MigftAathM rhi* !mcctnrcf made one of a gang who plundered Segovia (in 167$ F) 01 m ■ iiid even earlier. He appeal next in a tfaip of two gun* and 40 mni at Boco del Toro in I ti)iQ. He commai>ded a diviiion 00 the march aciOM the Uthmu*; but took no part in the fight at PctiCO. After ibe death q4' Sawkui* he comnunded the buccaneer H|ttadrua in the South Sea* ; until January i6tturcd Spaniah ahip. The French objected that Cook had no commiaaion and that he had no right to command the prize. They plundered the Engliah •eamcn aboard her and then turned them aihore. Captain Triatian, who happened tu be in the anchorage, received " about 8 or 1 of ihcae Hngliah ; of which number Captain Cook waa one, and Captain Davia another," and fwc inrmiae) Lionel Wafer a third. Theae ••» or 10" waited till ' Triatian went aahore ai Tortuga, and then ran 4way with hia ihip, carried her back to Vacca, picked up the reit of the crew, and went a-craiaing in her. They took a wine ahip, and a ahip of eight guna called the Rrvragr, in which they came to Virginia "about S or 9 montha after Atr. Dampitr came thither " (April i68j). They fitted up the Rntnge ai their cruiaer, and fet aad aboard her Augutt 13, ■'>'*3> on the foyage to Sierra Leone (where ihey took and went aboard the Balibfior'i DtSgbt). Wafer, who waa one of the chirurgeona of ihc party, aeerai 10 have had a merry time among the Alrican nativea, while the Siuthitr'r Dtl'gbi refitted. He took put in the adientutea in the South Scaa with Cook, Davia, and the othera [ tniil Auguai 17, 16S7, when Datia and Swan patted company. Uampiet 1 Maycd with Swaoi but Wafer remained in the Baithtlor't VrJigti, iioda Davia, with whom wne Captain* Knighi aitd Harria. After viaiting Coco* laland, "the Gallapaga'a, and ■■ acvttal of the lalanda and Coaau of Peru," tbia aquadron took Huana, Huacho, and Piaco. Davia then cruiird wettward, lighting what may have been liaaier laland in (he late autumn of iMj. They called at Juan Feinandei (where four men " would nredi atay behind "} and then Miled round the Horn un their wav home. Near the Caiibbcc Itlandi, Waier, Davxi, and othera went aboard a fiarindoei *)oop, and Bailed in her up the Delaware id Philadelphia, where they arrived in May l6tt8. Oae gaiiieti that they aettled in America, at Point Comfort, Va. *• Bui meeting with tome Troublea, after a 3 Year'* Reaiileacci" Wdin muntd to England (in the >ear 1690). 1*h« 537 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ** Troubles " were a charge of piracy, which ioTolt ed the whole partj, and ▼ery nearly •ent them to the gallowt. Their booty (mostly olfer) vai ukeo from them, and they were forced to leave the colony; bat, after several mooths in Newgate, io London, they were released (1691) aad managed to win back the greater part of their ^poil. Wafer was is London in 1697 ; fi^r he then gave evidence before the Board of Trade and Planutioos, concerning the setdement of the Isthmus of Darien. Is 1699 he published hu *' New Voyage and Description," which he dedicated to the Earl of Romney. In or about the year 1 700 he drew up a secret memorandum on places fit for settlement in the South Seas. This was done at the instance of the Duke of Marlborough, to whom (in 1704} dx second edition of Wafier's book was dedicated. Wafer is said to have died in 1 705. He is sometimes spoken of as De la Wafer. CAPTAIN FRANCOIS GROGNIET Arrived in the Bay of Panama, with a French commissioo, March 25, 1685. He was accompanied by 200 Frenchmen and 80 Englishmen, who joined Captains Davis and Swan at their anchorage. In the futile batde of Panama (May 28-29, 1685) he seems to have behaved with sliglit courage, so that the partnership was dissolved (June i, 1685). After a long cruise, he fell in with Townley {q,v.) with the help of whom he sacked Granada (on the Lake of Nicaragua) and Rio Lejo. After this he cmiied towards California with part of his crew. April 20, 1686, he nrpriied Guayaquil, and took an immense booty, with many prisoners. He died of a wound received in the attack. May 2, 1686. CAPTAIN WILLIAM KNIGHT He arrived at Quibo on July 5, 1685, having then been nine or ten mooths in the South Seas, getting little save *' a good ship." He placed himaelf under Davis's orders, and remained with Davis till 1687-8, when he parted company, and returned to the West Indies, %*ia Cape Horn. He had thes much plunder in his possession. CAPTAIN TOWNLEY Crossed the Isthmus with 180 men in February 1685. Joined Dsfii and Grogniet, March 3. Took part in the raids with Davis and Swao till August 1685, when Davis sailed for Amaplla. He remained with Swtf till January 1 686. He then cruised alone for two months, after which be re-joined Grogniet, with whom he raided Granada and Rio Lejo. On tk igih May 1686, he commanded a party which sacked Lavelia; and 'tool 538 I DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES great booiT. which wu aftcrwarili Ion through twd maiugcmcnt. He wu on Panama in Auguat r<)KA. On the iind he received a wound in a battle with ihrrr Sjtaniah thipi. He died of the wound on the i;th of the following month. CAPTAIN TRISTIAN, CHRISTIAN (•), OR TRISTAN All that i* known of lhi« buccaneer a told by Uamjncf md Wafer. CAPTAIN JOHN WILLIAMS , perhap* inteipreter or (ailinj-nattcfi to Vanbcy in the CAPTAIN VANKES, OR YANKEY, OR YANKV DUCH Took part in Van Hom'i {reat raid on Vera Cruf in the aummer flf lASj. In Febtiiary 16K4, be laiJed with Laiueni to Cartagena, where hn helwd to take three Spani*h ihtpa. He had thro a commiMion from Pnii Cuavc*. He Kiml ■ Januica iloop in the autumn of 16K4, " uaing reviling language " 10 ihe Miloit, .ind behaving geoeially like a pirate. On prutett being made lo tlie Go*«nof of Petit Guavct, thai gentleman rowed thai he knew Yankey " 10 be incapable of luch a thing -. " from which we may conclude that Yankey wai then well to do. In September 16X6, he look a Spaniah ahip worth 50,000 iloli. A year later he lurrrDdered 10 Cofrrnor Moleiworth, reteiTed a royal patdon, and then made a craiu to ike weal- ward, wliere he took a big Spaniah ihip. Danipier give* further dclailt fat tlic yeaia 1681-]. What becanic of Yankey doei not appear. PRINCE JEOLY. DAMPIER'S PAINTED PRINCE A folio troadahcR (i^i'>) V*" *t)r following deacriplion of GiolOi » Jeoly: — " Thii fatnou* Paintiu Paisci ii the Juit wonder of the Age, hi* whole )dy (except Face, Hjndi, aoil Feet) <» cutioudy and moat exquiiilely iiamrJ full of Vir.eiy ol InveDttuo, widi prodi||K]ui Art and irm'd. In to ntuch, that the antirni and nuble Myiicry ot Uing or Staiiunf upoai Hu4taine UoOie* irenia to be comprtied in thii ■ *utd]( Fmcc. [ "tp/iRtjmt mi Ukmc otitcr engraven Figurr* pabud from bim, and 539 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES now dispersed abroad, serve onlf to detciibe ai much as they can of the Fore-parts of this inimitahle Piece of Workmanship. The more admirable Back Part* afford us a Lively Representation of one quarter part of the World upon and betwixt his shoulders, where the Arctick and Tropick Circles center in the North Pole on his Neck. And all the other Lines, Circles and Charactert are done in auch exact Symmetry and Proportion that it ia astonishing and surmounts all that has hitherto been seen of this kind. What Wisdom and antient Learning may tic veiled under those other curious Figures and myaterioua Characters scattered up and down his Body, must be the Work of very ingenious Men to discover, " The Paint itself is so durable, that nothing can wash it off, or deface the beauty of it ; It is prepared from the Juice of a certain Herb, or Plant, peculiar to that Country, which they esteem infallible to prestrve humane Bodies from the deadly poiKn (k- bun of any venomoni Crettant what- " Thu admirable Pertcm U about the Age of Thirty, graccfid and w^ propoitioDed in aO hit Limbt, extreamlv nKxIett and onl, neat and cleanly | bat hit Language ia not tutdentood, ncitber can he meak EogUth. '* He it expoaed to pnblick view tnrj day (aoring hit ttay in Town) from the i6th day of thit itutant June, at hit Lodgisga at the fileir Boar'i Head in Fleetttreet, near Water Lane: where he wUl antimie frir aaoie tune, if hit health will permit. <* Bat if any Ferton* of Quali^, Gentlemen or Ladiei, do denre to aec thit noble Peraon, at thctr own Houaet) or any whtt conmnent place, in or ^xnit thit City of London : they are deiircd to tend timely notice, and he will be ready to wait opon them in a Coach or Chair, any ttme they pkaae to appcHDt, if in the day time. "ViTAHT Res and Rbgiha." There i> a chap-book on Jeoly, " written from his own Month " (by T. Hyde?) and published in 1691. It contains an CDgraving of Jeoly, representing him " in hit habit at he lived," painted with Variety of Invention from his ankles to his chest. Scorpions, snakes, and lizards are represented as fleeing from him in terror. The book it dull, and probably apocryphal. CAPTAINS SWAN AND HARRIS Some account of CHAt-Lti Swan, or Swanm, ofihe ihip " Cygnet" 1 •unthpapcre and quotalioHi relating to Captain Peter Harris. Tie^e papcrt art quoted from Dampier'i manuicripu in the Shane Collection, and from the " Calendar of Stale Paperi," Wejl Indian and Colonial Seriet. A Brief Account of Captain Stvan's Voyage into the South Seas, and what befel him at Baldivia. (Abridged.) October the Firit, 1683. Captain Swan in the Signelt of London with 36 men sailed out of the Downs bound for the South Seas. Marginal Note, 540 DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES ^ thipof i8o tuaniaod i6 gunot, the ww funnrrly calld Uic lUclr Engltnd, raad being bumd in the ricer wai rebuilt by Mr. Ca>ile and calld tbe Signt» I by ibotr mcrchanta that bought her, ihc being litlcd out with a very good I cargo for the South S««. (The merchanli were "eminent," and the cargo worth j^sooo.l Otiotrr iSib, "They paiKd by Palma but neter Stop there." "They Soon arrived ai Mayo where they took aboard two butt* of Salt." After a brief paiuc fur retreihmenii at St. lago, he tailed for the Strait* of Magellan. I l^li ef Dfcrmhrr. In Ul. 31° 44' tS. " Haveing hii iludeing Siilri I abroad with a fmh gale both top muu went by the board ai once." Hih «/ January 1684. Arrjircd at the Suaii'a Mouth and taw two ahip*, which both bore away 10 ipcalc with himi but he being lurprited to ICC two ihiM in thi« part of the world, " thought ii was Doe prudence to lye for them,' and therefore mjde away from them. The next day (after "be lud tiyed their Sailing") — for, ai Dampiet note* in ihc margin — **noc inan will ipealc with a *hip at xra except he knowi himaclf of tufEcient I Krength 10 de^t with hrr, eipccially in ihi* pan of the world "— Capuin |.8wan "ipoak" with thne ahipa. "The biggeit wa« Cipuin Faton, who ; out of Ii!ngland dettgning to leeke hia tortune in the .South Stai, the I Mher was a Porlugueie tiatke, commanded by one Morton who had been I with Sharpe " (and afterward* with "Mr. Bond.") Eaton had taken the I brk off Braiil a little while bd'orc. Captain Katon rndeaToured to permade Swan "to contorte with him." On Swan'i rcfutal, IHatun tried to entice hit men away, but uniucceM- L fi>liy- I yj Feinurj 1684. In the Siratti of Magellan. " loiioh Teal, the I Chief Mate, went a thoaie and had a Commerce with tbe I atagenei." 7/j Frbraary \(>ii^. At Port Famine in the Sintiu. EaUm and f Morton in company. iKfA Fthnnxrj 16M4. I^ighl of Swin'a men itole the longboat sod weoi ■board Morton'* ahio. Morton at once tec tail and made off. They taw hii ihip once again, but *oon afterward* hr wa* Ion in a uorm. Dumpier note* that " Eatoa and Monon were agreed, though Eaton carried it fair with Swan at if be knew nothing of it." Martb (4, 1684. Capuin Swan anchored at Balditia. Eaton ttood oDt (o tea to craitc. One of Swan'* " merchani*," or lupercargoet, went athore with a cock- IA&d-bull ttory that tbey wett Spantardi bound to Eaat India. Martb If, 1684. They went tthoie again "and lud like to be inp^nd into ao Anbiucado, bm gott awiy." Later on, ihry came to term* with the Sptoiard*. Tbe Spaniard* aiked for hoitaget tu be given before trading ; m> that Marti 16, 1684. "The boatc went athore againe, Joaiah Teat ittrrrd and the thite merchant* (Ringtoie, Hanhop, and Smith] were ■TO of tbcin Iwing to remaine athoie a* Pledge** the other wai to ny the Sponiatdi oS (tu the tiiip). When they cjmc athoare the I deiired them to tow in about a pointe of Land which ihry aud 541 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Was better Laodiag, but Teal fraring their desigocj would not be »oe easily imposed on. Hee ruan ihe boate in betweene two Ledges of Rockt on to the Sandy bay where the Spjnidids came and told them that tie . 'Govcrnour bad leat a preicot to the Captain which wss brought by two Indiani and thiown down on the Biy halfe a Muskett ihotc from the boaie and the Spaniards who were at a distance called ihem to fetch it. This bread some coDtroversy between Teat and the merchants " ; but, after some delay, one George Chambere leapt from the boat with Basil Ringrose, and " went to fetch the present." Before they had gotten to the present, a party of armed Spniards made a rush upon them. Chambers was killed at fince, but Ringrose made a shift to get into tlie 9ca " and lakeing hold of the boat's painter was drag'd off noe man knowing where he was." The men in the boat had a hard fight to win clear. Chambers was killed, 'Griffin Harris mortally wounded, Harthope and Ramage shot through the arms, Patrick wounded in the breast, Sheaphead in the hand, and Teat Sazed by a bullet op the thigh. Ringrose and Smith were the only ones ho escaped unhurt. 134 shott came into the boat, and 14 bullets went through the flag of tnice. However, among the Spaniards, " they all say that two Captains were killed and many of the Indians." " When Teat came aboard with this news Capn. Swan begun to repent tliat ever he look this Voyage in hand and he did never affect Master Riog- Mse afterwards " Damfaer adds a note : " for Mr. Ringrose being the propOBer of this Voyafie, did di'monstrait the thing very feazable in Englaixl Tlf Cjf»tt vSfA. from Baldhia thit afienKkm. After a «» at tbe Iiland of Mocha, Swan tailed to Jau PcruBdez. Apr^ 8, 1 684. He anchored at Tnaa Fernandez, to refit. Miq 19, 1684. He tailed for Plata. Juni 30, 1684. He anchored at Plata, to rcGt. "He Knib'd hi* Ship againe and tallowed, and cut wood, and Saved Some water, be likewise burned lime (ai a waib for his ahip'i bottom} and went adioare every day and killd goau and turned many titftle." Jidj 17, 1684. He sailed for Nicoya, "intending to trade there but was disappointed." " Indeed," adds Dampier, " I am a little at a stand when I consider Mr. Ringrose, his Meathod, I confiMs he was an Ingeoions Gentleman, but was extreamely besides hil mark in proposeing two tuch placet as Baldivia and the Gulfe of Necoya to trade in, the one being only a garrison the other a post of pore Malattot." Auguji z, 1684. Came to the river of Necoya. Chased two Spanith barks. jiuguti 3, 1684. Saw a bark coming down the river, and thinking her to be Spanish he " ordered his Ensign to be spread and fired a gunn." He then sent his boat towards the bark, while the bark sent a canoa towardt the boat. The two boats hailed each other in midstream, ■' before they came to neer." The bark proved to be a prize, lately taken by Caplmn Peter Harrit ("nephew to Captain Harris whoc was killd before Panama in the year 1680 "). He had 97 men aboard her, and " he said he came thither for money, ' having sunk his ship at Golden Island and given the S+2 DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES ladian guidri. Hv had iak«n Sta. Maria on hi* way "where much gold ai they thared 17 ounces per man, betides paying they took Ship'« Share and the wounded r I OF CAPTAIN PETER HARRIS Harrii had marched over the Imhniua in the riina. He wrpriaed Su. MatJB, " and lookc it without rctiitance," and fouod there aboQt " 1 10 waitr of gold." (Presumably the word " pounds " hai been omitted.) He then •eiied a bark and a Periagoe, and uiled to Gallera, in the Bay of Panama, " thinking on nothing but rich prizes laden wtih Silver and Gold." The fourth day after, his look-ouis repoited a Sjianinh iquadton of fiic sail coming towards him. Kc got uitder sail, ran alon|;ude the Spaiiiib flagship, forced her hands to run below, and broke her foreyjid in the slings. He then chased the *<|uadi on bjck to Patiam.i, losing' thrrc iticn killed and nine wounded. After this, he sailed for Nicoya, where he met Capuin Swan. MORE OF CAPTAIN SWAN Finding thai the men under Harris needfd arms, Captain Swan bfoachet) CarKO, tad opened a trade with them at the folluwing " good rale " : — " 40 dollars for a gun, a dollar far a pound of powder, 6 pence lor a pound of ihoi or Lead, an oz. of gold tor a black (clvet Ca]ip worth to shillings." All other commodities, such as cloth, serge, silk, libboas, and kniTn, sold "at any rates." " Ca{Aain Swao't men seeing the PHtateera soe full of Gold thought it a belter trade than what they foUnwed, and therefore . . . went aboard of Captain Harris, who rnirrtained sll thai came." Id short. Swan Ion •o many hinda that he wj> forced to consort with Harris, and to enter into an agreement with him. Articles were signed and sealed on the ^ih of August, 1684. yftnil %, 1684. They anchored at tKe Island Chira. jIi^iuI it, 1684. Swan took Riogro«e with ii men, in two canoas, 1 k a look for Nicoya city, or (or its caiprnter'i yi (one mortally). jliigmit 7, 1864. Th«y ran ii (le mortair n ambush, and h three n n wounded , 1684. They got alnard the bark again. This day Test was "aiaine made maaier" ha*iitg been reduced at the linie of the signing of the articles with Hanii. Auuit II, 16N4. They careened the Cjgari and burned two of their sstiall Milts. The burning of tbe barks forced Swan to destroy Mine ■Wfckaodiar, to make room for the inen who had manned them. A^pul >6, 1684. "They scm a Canoa to cuu Loom* (handle*) for euta, tbtre briag pltmy of good itrah red Ma&groTc For ptiviUcn utmtj J43 DAMPIER'S ASSOCIATES dwtrlfd « I Io>t. Then I cinit lo VMir , when I h4d tw< 1 killed day'i parley ami nil oatlit bunuD und n ooe uxl two hundred men cime out, and lirnl upon a poor eight af ui in the yawl. But Ood puniihed them likcwiM, a« wc hear, we killing three of their captaitu and »ome other*. [| ii too long 10 gire you an accouoi of all my trouble*, which were chiefly owing to the fact that the ihip wi* meant to be run tt/^y with. In Nicoya the reit of my men left me, to that, haviDg no one 10 Mil iJie thip, I waa forced to join then). So that now 1 am in hoaiility with ibe Spamaida, and have taken and burnt Mime towna, and have forced the Prcaideni of Panama to tend me two men he had taken from ua. The Mme day 270 new men came to me, and we are going to take in 200 more thai they left behind. We ihall woo be 900 men in the South Seai. Aaiure my employer* thai [ do all I can to pretrrTC their iDtcrni, and thai what I do now I could in 00 wi*e preteDi. So deiire them to do what they can with the K-ing for me, for as loon ai I can I ahall deliver tnyaelf lu the King'* juitice and I had rather die than live akuUing like a vagabond for fear of death. The King might make thi* whole Kingdom of Peru tributary to him in two yean' lime. We now await the Spaniih tieel that bring* the money to Panama. We were retolved 10 fight them before wc had reached (bi* ftrengih, and had lain in wait fi month* for them, but now we hear that ibey are at aei, and expect them evrry day. tf we hate tucccM againtt them we ihall make a detperjte alaim all Europe OTcr. I have loroc money which I wt«h were with you, for my wife. 1 ihull, with God'* help, do thing* which ( were it with my Prince'* leate) would make her a lady i but now 1 cannot tell bat it may bring me to a halter. But if it doth my comfort ia tliat 1 alull die lot that I cannot help. Pr^y pfe*eDt my faithful love to my dear wife, and auure her the t* itever out of my miod. Dampier teila of the melancholy end of Captain Swan oa pkge 4jd of 54$ > i .!•• VOYAGES AND DESCRIPTIONS. VOL. 11. IN THREE PARTS, viz.: I. A Supplement to the VOYAGE round the WORLD : Defcribing the Countries oiTonquin^ Achin^ Malacca^ &c. their Produdl, Inhabitants, Manners, Trade, Policy, &c. IL Two VOYAGES to Campeacby ; with a De- fcription of the Coafts, Produft, Inhabitants, Logwood-Cutting, Trade, &c. of Jucatan^ Campeacby^ New-Spain^ &c. III. A Discourse of Trade- winds, Breezes, Storms, Seafons of the Year, Tides and Currents of the Torrid Zone throughout the World : With an Account of Natal in Africk^ its Pro- dudt, Negro's, &c. By Capt. WILLIAM DAMPIER. Illuftrated with Particular Maps and Draughts. To which is added A General Index to both Volumes. L OND ON: Printed for James Knapton, at the Crown in St. PauPs Church-Yard. Mdcc. f ! r1 It I TO THt RIGHT HONOURABLE EDWARD f EARL OF ORFORD, VISCOUNT DARFLEUR, BARON OF SHINGEY, PRINCIPAl. LORD OF THE ADMIR- ALTY, TRKASURKR OF HIS MAJLISTY'S NAVY, Etc.. AND ONE OF HIS MAJBSTY'S MOST HONOURABLE PRIVY COUNCIL. MY LORD, TIS in Acknowledgment of the Favours your Lordship has confirrr'd upon mc, that I presume to place your Name before these Papers. The Honourable Person to whom I dedicated my former Volume could not have taken a more agreeable way to befriend me, than by recommending mc to your Patronage; and I shall always retain a grateful sense of it ; And your Lordship has been pleas'd to prefer me in a way suitable to my Genius and Hxpcrience ; and wherein therefore, if in any way, I may be able to do something toward the preserving the good Opinion you have been pleased to entertain of me. 'Tis a further Satisfaction to me, that my Employment is of such a Nature as does not alienate me from your Lordship's more [vculiar Juris- diction, but places me more immediately under it. and chiefly acccnintable to your self. Whatever parts of the World I shall range into, I shall carry this Comfort along """"" me, that next under the Providence of God. and his »ty's Prtin-ciion, I shall be so long as I am upon the ' ' » the Province, and under the Direction of your :| Honourable Board : Kor whose Favours 549 DEDICATION to me in general I have no better way of Expressing my Gratitude, than by doing it thus to your Lordship, who presides there. And with these Sentiments, I am bold subscribe ray self, MY LORD, Your Lordship's most Faithful, and Devoted Humble Servant, William Dampier. 'ho IN the Preface to my former Volume, I have accounted for the Design, and Method, and Stile of those Relations of my Travels. What I have more to say u( that kind, is chic6y with reference to what I now offer the Reader. Thus far I have thought fit to change my Method in this Volume, as to divide it into distinct Parts, because the Matters it treats of are so different from one another, in point of Time, or other Circumstances : But still in each Part I have taken the same Course of making several Chapters, that this Volume might retain some Uniformity with the other. The First of these is that Account 1 promised of my Voyages from Achin in Sumatra, to several Places in the E. Indies; of which 1 forbore to particularize in the former Volume, for Reasons there mentioned. I have now more than discharged my self of that Promise : For I have improved my own Observations, especially as to Tonquin, by those of some English Gentlemen, who made a con- siderable stay in that Kingdom. I am abundantly satisfied my self of their Ability and Integrity; the proper Quali- fications in things of this Nature : And could 1 have obtained their leave, the Reader also should have had the Satisfaction of knowing to whom he was to ascribe several (^ those Particulars ; i lowcvcr, I have taken frequent Occuions to distinguish in general what I saw, from what I was informed of. This part is the Supplement of what is contained in the former Volume; and complcats the '* Voyage round the World." The Second Part contains what relates to the Time I spent in the Bay t>f Campeachy, eithi ' oewood- S5' THE PREFACE Cutter, or a Trader to them. This was before I made my Voyage round the World, as the Reader will perceive : And upon this Occasion, therefore, I have gone so far back, as to speak of my first entrance upon this Rambling kind of Life. For the Account it gives of Campeachy, and the Neighbouring parts of Jucatan and New Spain, &c. I refer the Reader to the Work it self. The Third Part is an Account of the Winds, and Weather, Storms, Tides, and Currents of the Torrid Zone, round the World; which may be of Use towards the Improvement of Navigation, and that part of Natural History. 'Tis the substance of what I have remarked or learnt, about things of that Kind, in so long a course of Roving upon the Seas: And tho' I have not omitted to speak of these Matters in the series of my Voyages, as occasion offered, yet I thought it might not be unaccept- able, to put them together in one View also by themselves, in a Methodical Discourse, ranging the several Particulars under their proper Heads. To render these things the more intelligible, I have prefixed peculiar Maps: One to each of the foregoing Parts ; but two to this of the Winds, &c. that the Variety of Trade- Winds might some way be pictured, as it were, to the Eye ; and the Reader might be the less liable to be confounded with the Multiplicity of Words, denoting the several Points of the Compass, or other Terms necessary to the Descriptional part of the Discourse. These Maps contain the Torrid Zone, and so much towards each Pole as was of Use to my Design : And the Projection differs in this only from the Common Maps, that in order to shew the Atlantick and South Oceans each in one entire view, the Division of the Hemispheres is made, not at the first Meridian, (reckoning from TenerifFe,) nor at the 350th, as is usual also, and as 'tis in the Globe-Map, prefixed to my first Volume, but at the 300th ; yet still retaining the common Graduation in the Equator, from that customary Meridian of the Canaries, or C. Verd. And upon this mention of the Atlantick Sea, there is one thing I would observe to the Reader, that I use that ^^^m THE PREFACE M name not only for the North-Sea, as 'tis called, but for this whole Ocein, on both sides of the Equator between Europe and Africk on one hand, and America on the other. If I be questioned for taking this Liberty, I should think it enough to say, that I wanted a general name for this whole Ocean, and I could not find one more proper. And yet even as to the Reason of the thing, if the Discovery of a Sea to the South of the Isthmus of Daricn, or the Mexican Coast, were ground sufficient for the extending the Name of the South-Sea to all that largest Ocean of the World, tho' it lies West rather of the whole Continent of America ; much more may I be allowed a less consider- able Enlargement of the Name of Atlantick Sea, which others have long since extended lo so great a Part of this Ocean, from its Original narrow Confines, the Neighbour- hood of Mount Atlas, and the Coasts of Mauritania. I know that so much of this Ocean as lies South of the K. Niger, went usually by the Name of the ^thiopick Sea : Tct I can't learn a sufficient Reason for It : For tho' 'tis true, that the Ancients called all the South Parts of Africk to each Sea, /[Lthiopia, yet even upon this bottom, the Name of ^thiopick Sw should have been left common to the Oceans on each side of the Cape of Good Hope. But if the Name must be appropriated, why to this on the West of Africa f why not rather to that on its E, Coast ? which lies nearer the Inward or more proper ALthiopta, now the Abissinc Empire ? and consequently might better tic called ^thiopick Sea. Accordingly I have ventured to call it so, Vol. I. Page 300, making ii there the same as the Indian ; which I also make to oe all the Ocean from the East Coast of Africa to the remotest of the East-India Islands, New-Holland, and New-Guinea: Tho' this Name also of Indian-Sea has been understood, usually of narrower bounds. But be that as it will, I was for using comprehensive Names ; and therefore these three Names c^ Atlantick, Indian, and South-Seas, or Oceans, serve me for the whole Ambit of the Torrtd Zone, and what else I have occasion to speak of. ^_ To these three Parts is added a General Index of both K 553 THE PREFACE Volumes. The first Volume should not have been published without one, but that was reserv'd to be annexed to this; that the Reader might not have the Trouble of turning over 2 Alphabets. Thus what 1 designed as an Appendix to the former Volume, is grown to its self a volume answerable to the other. And I am sensible there is one part of the intended Appendix yet behind, viz. the Description of the South-Sea Coasts of America, from the Spanish Pilot-Book, &c. I confess I had thoughts of crowding it into this Volume ; But besides the dryness and fatigue of such a Work, and the small leisure I had for it, I was quite discouraged from attempting it, when upon a nearer View of the matter I found in those Descriptions and Charts a repugnance with each other in many particulars; and some things which from my own Experience I knew to be erroneous. Indeed as they are, they may be very useful to Sailors in those Parts, being generally right enough in the main : But I was loth to undertake a Work, much of which must have consisted in correcting Mistakes, and yet have left un- avoidably many more to be rectified. Others may have Time and Helps for this Affair; and future Discoveries may give greater Light to direct them. To me it shall suffice, that bating this one particular, I have here en- deavoured to perform what 1 had made the Publick expect from me. J THE CONTENTS i: i c I PART I The Supplemeni of the Voyage round ike fVarU c HAPTER I. The Auihor'j Voyage froin Achin to Malacca anJ Tonquin. The Natural State of Tonquin. 3. Of the Naiit-cs, their Customs, Religion, Trade, &c. Of theGoveriiment, King%SalJicry,aiid Mandarins. Voyage i» Tenan. The A.'t Journey by Land to Cachao, and Occurrence!). His return from Tonquin, with lome pariicuUn of Cambodia, and Bcncouli, and Arrival at Malacca and Achin. Achin described ; its Natural and PolilicaJ State, Custom's, Trade, Civil War, tie. His Voyai^ to Malacca again : Malacca described. His Return 10 Achin ; Voya^^c to Fort St. George, and ihcnce to Bcncouli : Bcncouli described. Tht Camp€achy Voyages Chapter 1. The A.'i Fif« Vay»ge to Campcachy, and Return. Jucatan, Alcrancs, and I. of Pines dcscribM. a. His Second \!m*^c. The E. Coast of Campcachy docrib'd ; its Vcfteubles, VVcathcr, AnimaU, Kc- I 3. Logwood Cutting, Beef-huntinjc, and Occurrence!. 4. The W. Coast of Campcachy described, in Mounta[nd products of Campcar Spain dcacribed. The A.'s return lo Englaaa, THE CONTENTS A Discourse of fVinds^ Storms, Seasons, Tides, and Currents in the Torrid Zone Chapter I. Of the True or General Trade-Wind at Sea, Crossing I the Line, &c. 2. Of the Coasting and constant Trade Winds. 3. Of the shifting Trade-Winds, and Monsoons. 4. Of the ordinary Sea and Land-Breezes. S- Of peculiar Breezes, and Winds of particular effects, Summa- ' senta Winds, Cartagena Breezes, Popogaios, Tereno's, and ' Harmatans. 6. Of Storms, Norths, Souths, Hurricanes, TufFoons, stormy I Monsoons and Elephanta's. 7. Of the Seasons of the Year, Weather, Rains, and Tornadoes. 8. Of Tides and Currents. Natal described ; its Product, j Negroes, &c. ) 556 MR. DAMPIER'S VOYAGES VOL. II PART I VOYAGE FROM ACHIN IN SUMATRA, TO TONQUIN, AND OTHER PLACES IN THE EAST- INDIES. CHAP. I Th* CmtuJtun tfthit Diueuru with iht faya^t rtunJ ihf iy«rl4, T/it jtuifw'i Dff^rturt fnm Athit in iht hit ef Sumatra with Caftaim IVfidtn. Thrir C»uru ahng tht Strrighli »f Afalaetu. PaU Nu/M, and ithrr hlandi. Th R. and Kingdm of Miri. PuU On, and Pnh Ttmaon : Grtfn Turih thrrt. Pult Csndcre. Shtab »f PractL, Rivtr of Camhodioy Cta» of Champa, PuU Camltn. Cothinthinfu, Pnte ChamftlU, R. and City af Quinam, Oil if Ptr/mii/i and Turll/, Skipwrtukl Mtn dttalntd inuatiy at Ctchimhina and Pfgn, Agua/a ff^aad frtm tht Bay »f Siam. Bay af Tannin. I. af Aynam, and alhfr Itiandi. Rakia am Mautti tflht thitf R. tfTanjuin. Fithtrt I. Rivtr af Dtmta, iht athtr Mauth. tti Bar and Entramt. Mmntain Eltfihant. PfarUli/andi. Piiati af Battha. Thty ga up ih Riwr af Damea. Damaa and ill Gardrni, and Oulch iturr. Thrj Uavt ikiir Shift at Anther ahavt it, uihtrf tht Nativti hiild a Ttxvn. Thrj ga op ta tht fhitf City in tfir Ctintry Baati. Tht Riwr and th* Camntry ahaat it. Lrfratu Btggart. Hfan, a Tnum af nUt ; bChinett thrrt. Tht Gavrmaur, Shipping and Tid*. Thty arrivt at Cathaa, tht MrtrapaHf af Tan^nin, T %HK Reader will find upon perusing my "Voyage *ji,' round the World," ihat I then omilied to speak '**• particularly of the Excursions I made to ^g, n Tonquin, Malacca, Fort St. Georve, and HSencouli from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra ; togetiier with L CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Description I intended to give of those Parts. I do 1688 bm just mention them there ; but shall now proceed to a more distinct Account of them. And to keep to the Order of Time, the Reader may recollect, that my first Departure from Achin was to Tonquin, along with Captain Weldon, about July 1688, as I have said p. 489th of my former Volume. I have there related in a page or two before, to how weak a Condition my self and my Companions were brought, through the Fatigues of our Passage from Nicobar to Achin : yet did not my Weakness take me off from contriving some Em- ployment or Expedition, whereby I might have a comfort- able Subsistence. Captain Weldon touched here, to sell the Slaves he had brought with him from Fort St. George ; it being in his way to the Streights of Malacca, and so to Tonquin, whither he was bound. This afforded me the Opportunity of trying that Voyage, to which he kindly invited me, and to which I was the more incouraged because he had a good Surgeon in his Ship, whose Advice I needed : and my Friend Mr. Hall was particularly animated thereby ; who had also resolved upon this Voyage, and was in a weaker Condition than my self. Besides, Capt. Weldon promised to buy a Sloop at Tonquin, of which he would make me Commander, to go a trading Voyage from thence to Cochinchina, Champa, Cambodia, or some others of the adjacent Countries : which Trade has been scarce, yet has been attempted by our Country-men, and there were Hopes it might turn to a good Account ; but this Project came to nothing. However, Captain Weldon having finished his Business at Achin, I set out thence with him thro' the Streights of Malacca, and we soon arrived at the Town of Malacca : of which Town and Country, I shall have a better Occasion to speak hereafter. Here we found the desar of London, commanded by Captain Wright, who came from Bombay, and was bound to China. He stopt here to water and refresh, as is usual for Ships to do that pass these Streights. By him we were informed that three other English Ships had touched here, and were past on to the Eastward ten 558 PULO NUTTEE Days before. These 3 Ships came from l*ort St. George, j in Company with Captain Weldon : but his Business calling ' him to Achin, they in the mean Time prosecuting their Voyage, got the Start of us thus much. The desar was soon ready to sail again, and went away the next Morning after our Arrival at Malacca. Our Captain being a Stranger to the Bay of Tonquin, as were all his Ship's Company, be hired a Dutch Pilot at Malacca; and having finished his Business there, wc set sail, two Days after the C^tiar. Wc were desirous to overtake these four Ships, and therefore crouded all the Sail wc could make ; having a strong westerly Wind, accom- panied with many hard Gusts and Tornadoes : and the very next Day we got Sight of them ; for they had not yet passed through a narrow Passage, called the Streights oi Stncaporc. Wc soon got up with them, and past through together ; and sailing about three Leagues farther we anchored near an Island called Pulo Nuttee, belonging to the Kingdom of Jihore.' Here Capiain Weldon look in Wood and Water, and some of the Indian Inhabitants came aboard us in their Canoas, of whom we bought a few Coco-nuts, Plantains, and fresh Fish. We staid here not above four and twenty Hours; for the other Ships had filled most of their Water at other Islands near this, before we came up with them : for tho* Ships do usually take in Water at Malacca Town, yet they da as frequently discharge it again at some of these Islands, and take in better. We sailed the next Day, and kept near the Malacca Shore ; and there passing by the Mouth of the River Jihore, we left many other Islands on our Starboard -side. The River of Jihore runs by the City of that Name, which is the Scat of the little Kingdom of Jihore. This Kingdom lies on the Continent of Malacca, and consists of the extremity or doubling of that Promontory. It abounds with Pepper, and other good Commodities. **" . Mahooieun People, very warlike, and I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AH. desirons of 'Trade. TheyMelight much in Shipping and >6^ gm the Shore. They arc called Champella de la Mar, to distinguish them from others lying farther down > Should be brbmnL Tbe rhret nf Cambodct di»chaisn iimIT a liillc to Itie toutb of (he loUi ponllcL * fintMbty Cape Vanla. ■ In laL tt'So'N. ■ Ct«m ColUtt Cape Uautagan. ■ Hainui. * The Naran, Gan-uu, and olbei gmtms. 563 ^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. therefore even the Ships that are bound from the Streights 1688 Qf MaUcca or Siam to China, may as well pass to and from within the Shole as without. The Bay of Tonquin is about 30 Leagues wide in the broadest Place. There is good Sounding and Anchoring all over it : and in the Middle, where it is deepest, there is about 46 Fathom water. There you have black Oaze, and dark Peppery Sand : but on the West-side there is reddish Oazy Sand. Beside the other Islands before-mentioned, there are others of less Note on the Cochinchina Coast; but none of them all above four or five Miles from the Shore. In the Bottom of the Bay also, there are some small Islands, close by the Tonquin Shore: 2 of these are of especial Note, not for their Bigness, but for Sea-marks of the 2 principal Rivers, or Mouth rather of the chief River ^ of Tonquin. One of these Rivers or Mouths, is called Rokbo. It discharges it self into the Sea near the N. W. Corner of the Bay : and the Mouth of it is in about 20 d. 6 m. N. This River or Branch I was not at, but have been informed, that it has not above 1 2 Foot Water at the Entrance ; but that its Bottom is soft Oaz, and therefore very convenient for small Vessels, and it is the way that all the Chinese and Siamers do use. About a League to the Westward* of this River's Mouth, there is a small pretty high Island calfd Fishers Island. It lieth about two Mile from the Shore, and it hath good Anchoring about it in 17 or 18 Foot Water: and therefore it is not only a Sea-mark for the River, but a secure place to ride in, and very convenient for Ships to Anchor at, to shelter themselves when they come hither, especially if they have not a present Opportunity to enter the River ; either be- cause of coming too late in the Year, or being hindrcd by bad Weather. The other River or Mouth, was that by which we entered ; and *tis larger and deeper than the former. I * The He-ho, or Black River, and the Song-Ka, or Red Ri\'cr, which join and break into a number of mouths. ' Should be eastward. 564 RIVER OF DOMEA r hot its particular Name ; but for distinction I snHT call it the River of Domca;' because the first Town of '^8 Note, that I saw on its Bank was so called. The Mouth of the River is in lat. 2o d. 45 m. It disembogues jo Leagues to the N. E. of Rokbo. There are many dangerous Sands and Shoals between these two Rivers, which stretch into the Sea a Leagues or more ; and all the Coast, even from the Cochinchina Shore on the West, to China on the East, admits of Shoats and Sands, which yet tn some Places lie stretched farther off from the Shore than in others. This River of Domea is that by which most European Ships enter, for the sake of its Depth : yet here is a Bar of near two Mile broad, and the Channel is about half a I Mile broad, having Sands on each Side. The Depth of I the River is various at different Times and Seasons, by the 1 Relation of the Pilots who arc best acquainted here : for at some Times of the Year here is not above 15 or 16 Foot Water on a Spring Tide ; and at other Times here are 26 or 27 Foot. The highest Tides arc said to be in the Months of November, December, and January, when the Northerly Monsoons blow ; and the lowest in May, June, and July, when the Southerly Monsoons blow; but to be particular in them is beyond my Experience. The Channel of the Bar is hard Sand, which makes it the more dangerous : and the Tides whirling among the Sands, set divcr» ways in a Tides Time ; which makes it the more dangerous still. Therefore Ships that come hither, commonly wait for a Pilot to direct them, and if they arrive when it is Nepc-lide, they must stay for i Spring before a Pilot will come off to take Charge oS them. The Mark of this River is a great high ridgy Mountain in the Country, call'd the Elephant. This must be brought to bear N. W. by N : then steering towards the Shore, the Water runs shallower, till you come into 6 Fathom, and then you will be two or three Miles from the Foot or Entrance of the Bar, and about the same Distance from a L^null Island called Pearl Island ; which will then bear ■ Tbt Kua Gok, at ToMtnin Ritm. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. nearest N. N. E. Having these Marks and Depth, you '^*^ may anchor, and wait for a Pilot. The Pilots for this River are Fishermen, who live at a Village called Batsha,^ at the Mouth of the River; so seated, that they can see all Ships that wait for a Pilot, and hear the Guns too, that are often fired as Signals by Europeans, to give Notice of thdr Arrival. It was in the Road before the Bar, in Sight of the Elephant Land, that we found the Rainbow of London, apuin Pool Commander, riding and waiting for a PUot, when we and Captain Lacy arrived. Captain Pool came directly from England, and passing thro* the Streights of Sundy, touched at Batavia. He had lain here 2 or 3 days before we arrived : but the Spring-tides coming on, the Hlots came aboard, and we all three in Company passed in over the Bar, and entring about half-flood, we had 14 Foot and a half Water on the Bar. Being got over the Bar, we found it deeper, and the Bottom soft Oaze. The River at its Mouth is above a Mile wide, but grows narrower as you run farther up. We had a moderate Sea-breeze, and having a good Tide of Flood, made the best of it to reach to our anchoring Place. Having run about five or six Leagues up the River, we past by a Village called Domea. This is a handsome Village : and 'twas the first of Note that we saw standing on the Banks. *Tis seated on the Starboard-side going up, and so nigh the River, that the Tide sometimes washes the Walls of the Houses, for the Tide rises and falls here nine or ten Foot. This Village consists of about 100 Houses. The Dutch Ships that trade here do always lye in the River before this Town, and the Dutch Seamen, by their annual Returns hither from Batavia, are very intimate with the Natives, and as free here as at their own homes : for the Tonquinese in general are a very sociable People, especially the Traders and poorer Sort : but of this more in its proper Place. The Dutch have instructed the Natives in » "A fisher village at the River's mouth where the European ships enter it " (Baron), 566 I THKY ANCHOR the Art of Gardening: by which means they have Abund- ance of Herbage for Sallading ; which among other Things ' )> a Great Refrcshmetit To the Dutch Seamen, when they arrive here. Tho' the Dutch who come to trade in this Kingdom, to no higher with their Ships than this Domea, yet the English usually go about 3 Mile farther up, and there lye at Anchor during their Stay in this Country. We did so at this Time, and passing by Domca came to an anchor at that Distance. The Tide is not so strong here as at Domca ; but we found not one House near it : yet our Ship had not lain there many Days before the Natives came from all the Country about, and fell a building them Houses after their fashion ; so that in a Month's time there was a little Town built near our anchoring Place. This is no unusual thing in other parts of India, especially where Ships lye long at a place, the poorer sort of Natives uking this Opportunity to truck and barter ; and by some little Offices, or Begging, but especially by bringing Women to let to hire, they get what they can of the Seamen. This place where our Ships rode at Anchor was not above 20 Miles from the Sea : but the Trade of the Kingdom is driven at Cachao,' the principal City ; where fur that Reason the English and Dutch East-India Com- panies have each of them their Factors constantly residing. The City was farther up the River, about 80 Miles from our anchoring Place; and our Captains got themselves tn a readiness to go up thither; it being usual to send up the Goods in the Country Boats, which are targe and commodious enough ; and the hire is pretty reasonable both for the Vessels, arkl the Men who manage them. They are Tonquincse, and use both Oars and Sails. Our Factory at Cachao had news of our arrival before wc came to an Anchor, and immediately the chief of the Factory, with some of the King of Ton()uin*s Officers, came down to us, by * Or " Cha-cbo,' a city tome i>a mile* up ihe rirer. It wu the opital of Tonqvin, and miitbi " for it* capacioiuon*, be cmnpaml with many ehm tn Aaiii, and uperiot 10 nmst Ibr {Mpulouans.' Sm Samtad Baron^ "OMChpDon." 16S). 5'7 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. that time wc had lain there about 4 or 5 Days* The 1688 Tonquinese Officers came to take an account of the Ships and Lading, and our Captains received them with great civility, firing of Guns, feasting for 2 or 3 Days, and Pre- sents also at their return back to Cachao. Soon after their departure, the chief of the Fzctory re- turned thither again, and with him went our three Captwis, and some others, among whom I got leave to go also. Captain Weldon had recommended me to the chief of the Factory, while he was aboard us : and my going up now to the City, was in Order to have his Assistance in the Voyage to Cochinchina, Champa, or Cambodia, which Captain Weldon had contrived for me; nor was it his Fault that it came to nothing. We went from our Ships in the Country Boats we had hired, with the Tide of Flood, and anchored in the Ebb: For the Tide runs strong for thirty or forty Miles beyond the Place where we left our Ships. Our Men contented themselves with looking after their Goods (the Tonquinese being very light-finger*d) and left the Management of the Boats entirely to the Boat's Crew. Their Boats have but one Mast ; and when the Wind is against them they take it down, and ply their Oars. As we advanced thus up the River, sometimes rowing, sometimes sailing, we had a delightful Prospect over a large level fruitful Country, It was generally either Pasture or Rice-fields; and void of Trees, except only about the Villages, which stood thick, and appeared mighty pleasant at a Distance. There are many of these Villages stand close to the Banks of the Rivers, incompassed with Trees on the Backside only, but open to the River. When we came near any of these Villages, we were commonly encountered with Beggars, who came oflTto us in little Boats made of Twigs, and plaistered over both Inside and Outside with Clay, but very leaky. These were a poor Leprous People, who for that Reason arc compell'd by the rest to live by themselves, and are permitted to b^ publickly. As soon as they spied us they set up a loud doleful Cry, and as we past by them we threw them out 568 CHINESE AND FRENCH FACTORIES ' some Rice, which they received with great Appearance of Joy. '•' In about four Days Time wc got to Hean, a Town on the Iiast-side of the River; which is here entire; for a little before we came to Hean wc met the main Stream where it parts into the two Channels, that of Domca, which we came up, and the other of Rokbo: making a large and triangular Island between them and the Sea ; the Mouths of those Channels being, as I have said, 20 Leagues asunder. Hean is about 60 Miles from the Place where we left our Ships, and about 80 from the Sea that way : But along the River or Channel Rokbo, where the Land trends more to the Southward, it seems to be farther distant from the Sea, 'Tis a considerable Town, of about 2000 Houses; hut the Inhabitants are most poor People and Soldiers, who keep a Garrison there ; tho' it has neither Walls, Fort, nor great Guns. Here is one Street belonging to the Chinese Merchants. For some Years ago a great many lived at Cachao ; til) they grew so numerous, that the Natives themselves were even swallowed up by them. The King taking Notice of it, ordered them to remove from thence, allowing them to live any where but in the Gty. But the major Part of them presently forsook the Country, as not finding it convenient for them to live any where but at Cachao; because that is the only Place of Trade in the Country, and Trade is the Life of a Chinese. However some of them were content to settle at Hean, where they have remained ever since. And these Merchants, notwithstanding the Prohiirition, go often to Cachao, to buy and sell Goods; but are not suflvr'd to make it their constant Residence. There were two of these China Merchants who traded yearly to Japan, with raw and wrought Silks, bringing hack Money chiefly. These all of them wore long Hair braided behind, as their own Country Fashion was before the Tartarian Conquest. The French too have their Faaory here, not being allowed to fix at Cachao and their Bishops Palace is the fairest building in Hean : but of this I shall have ocouton to Ipcak more hcretfter. 569 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The Governor of the adjacent Province lives here. He '^^ is one of the p)rindpal Mandarins of the Nation, and he has always a great many Soldiers in the Town, and! inferiour Officers, whom he employs at his pleasure on any Occasion. Besides, here are also some c^ the King's River Frigats,^ which I shall hereafter describe, ready to be sent on any Expedition : and tho* no Europeans come up so far as thu with their Ships, (that I could learn) yet the Samites and Chinese bring their Ships up the River Rokbo, quite to Hean, and lie at Anchor before it : and we found there several Chinese Jonks. They ride a-float in the middle of the River ; for the Water does not rise and fall much at this place : Neither is the flood discerned by the turning of the stream ; for that alwap runs down, though not so swift near full Sea as at other times : for the Tide pressing against the Stream, tho* faintly so far up the River, has not Power to turn it, but only slackens its Course, and makes the Water rise a little. The Governor ot his Deputy gives his Chop * or Pass to all Vessels that go up or down ; not so much as a Boat being suffered to proceed without it. For which Reason we also made a Stop : yet we stayed here but a little while ; and therefore I did not now go ashc^e ; but had a while after this a better Opportunity of seeing Hean. From Hean we went up to Cachao in our Boats, being about 2 Days more on our Voyage, for we had no Tide to help us. We landed at the English Factory, and I stayed there 7 or 8 Days, before I went down to our Ships again in one of the Country Boats. We had good Weather coming up : but it rained all the time of this my first stay at Cachao ; and we had much wet weather after this. But having got thus far, I shall now proceed to give some general Accoimt of this Country; from my own Observations, and the Experience of Merchants and others worthy of Credit, who have had their Residence there, and some of them a great many Years. * The Admiral of the Tonquinese sea forces had his palace at Hean. * Chaopy a seal, or sealed passport. 570 CHAP. II Tetiquin, itt Situatim, S«7, ffattn anJ Prtvlnctt, lit natural Product, Rmi, Htris, Fruilt, uiid Trttt. Thr Cam-chain anJ Cam-piit Orangri. Thnr Limet, i^e. Th/ir Btt/f anJ Lichea Fruit, Tht Panflrte, Latk-trtti, Mulhtrry-lrftt, and Riit. Their Land jfnimali. Fowl, tame and wild ; Nrti for l^ild Dueit, Lttvilif Fith, Balacbaun, Nuirmum-Pieilt, Sfif, and manner of Fiihing. Thr Marin, Prwiiieni, Fted and Caoiery. Their Cheu *r Tea. The Temperature *f their Air and tVeathtr tkrmghaut the year. Of the great Heatt near the Trapieh. Of the yearly Land Flaadi here, and eltewhere in the Terrid Ztne, and »f the averfnving of the Mi/e in Egypt. Of Slarmi ^ tailed Tuffitni : and of the /n/umet the Raint have «m the Hanmt at Tmjuin, and iluwhere in the Tarrid Zon*. THE Kingdom of Tonquin is bounded to the an. North and North East with China, to the West '^ with the Kingdom of Laos,' to the S. and E. with Cochinchina and the Sea, which washes a part of this Kingdom. As to the farticular Bounds or Extent of it, 1 cannot be a competent Judge, coming to it by Sea, and going up directly to Cachao : but it is reasonable tn believe It to be a pretty large Kingdom, by the many great Prt>- vinces which are said to he contained in it. That part of the Kingdom, that borders on the Sea, is all very low land: neither is there any Hill to be seen, but the Ktcphani Mountain, and a Ridge of a much less Heighth continued from thence to the Mouth of the River of Dumea. The Land for about sixty Miles up in the Country is still very low. even and plain : nor is it much higher, for about forty Miles farther quite to Cachao, and 57' CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. beyond it ; being without any sensible Hill, tho' generally 1688 Qf jj tolerable good Heighth, and with some gentle Ri^ngs here and there, that make it a fine pleasant Champion ; and the further Side of this also is more Level than the Champion Country it self about Hean or Cachao. Farther still to the North, beyond all this, I have been informed that there is a Chain of high Mountains, running cross the Country from East to West ; but I could get no Intimation of what is beyond them. The Soil of this Country is generally very rich : That very low Land I speak of towards the Sea, is most black Earth, and the Mould pretty deep. In some Places there's very strong Clay. The Champion Land is generally yellowish or greyish Earth, of a looser and more friable Substance than the former: yet in some Places it has a Touch of the Clay too. In the plain Country, near the Mountains last mentioned, there are said to be some high steep Rocks of Marble scattered up and down at unequal Distances, which standing in that large plain Savannah, are like so many great Towers or Castles: and they appear more visible, because the Land about them is not burdened with Wood, as in some Places in its Neighbourhood. I have said somewhat already of the great River and its two Branches Rokbo and Domea, wherewith this Country is chiefly watered : tho' it is not destitute of many other pleasant Streams, that are lost in these, in their Course towards the Sea : and probably there are many others, that run immediately into the Sea, through their own Channels, tho' not so navigable as the other. The Country in general is very well watered ; and by Means of the great Navigable River and its Branches, it has the Opportunity of Foreign Trade. This rises about the Mountains in the North, or from beyond them ; whence running Southerly towards the Sea, it passes thro' the before-mentioned Plsun of Marble Rocks, and by that Time it comes to Cachao, which is about forty or fifty Miles to the South of the Mountains, 'tis about as broad as the Thames at Lambeth : yet so shallow in the dry Season, as that it may be forded on Horseback. At Hean, twenty Miles lower, 'tis rather 572 Boroadi THE PROVINCES OF TONQUIN and so below Hean let than the Thames at Gravcscnd ; to the Place where it divides it self. ' The Kingdom of Tonquin is said to be divided into eight large Provinces, viz, the East and West Provinces, the North and South Provinces, and the Province of Cachao in the Middle l>etween those four: which five I take to be the principal Provinces, making the Heart of the Country. The other three, which arc Tcnan, Teneboa, and Ngcam, lie more upon the Borders. The Province of Tenan is the most Kasierly, having China on the S. E. the Island Aynara and the Sea on the S. and S. W. and the East Province on the N. W. This is but a small Province : its chicfest Product is Rice. The East Province stretches away from Tenan to the Korth Province, having also China on its East side, part of (he South Province, and the Province of Cachao on the West ; and the Sea on the South. This is a very lai^e Province ; 'tis chiefly low L^nd, and much of it Islands, especially the S. E. part of it, bordering on the Sea towards Tenan ; and here the Sea makes the Cod of a Bay. It has Abundance of Fishermen inhabiting near the Sea : but its chief Produce is Rice : here is also good Pasturage, and much Cattle, &c Hean is the chief Place of this Province, and the Scat of the Mandarin its Governor. The S. Province is the triangular Island, made by Sea : The River of Domea is on its East-side, dividing it from the Ivast Province, and Rockbo on the West, dividing it from Tenan ; having the Sea to its South. This Province is very low plain even Land, producing Rice in great Abundance : here are large Pastures, and Abundance of Fishermen near the Sea. Teneboa to the West of Rokbo, has the West Province on its Nonh, Aynam on its West, and the Sea on its South : this Province is also low Land, chiefly abounds in Rice and Cattle, and hath a great Trade in Fishing, as all the Sca- Cotst has in general. The Province of Ngeam, hath Teneboa on the East, and on the South and West it borders on Cochinchina, and has the Wcftt Province on lU North. This is a pretty 573 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. large Province, abounding with Rice and Cattle : and here '688 j^j^ always Soldiers kept to guard the Frontiers from the Cochinchinese. The West Provinces hath Ngeam on the South, the Kingdom of Laos on the West, the Province of Cachao on the East, and on the North the North Province. This is a large Province, and good Champion Land ; rich in Soil, partly woody, partly Pasture. The Product of this Pro- vince is chiefly in Lack ; and here are bred a great Abundance of Silk-worms for making Silk. The North Province is a large Tract of Land^ making the North-side of this whole Kingdom. It hath the Kingdom of Laos on the West, and China on the East and North, the Kingdom of Bao or Baotan on the North West, and on the South Borders on three of the [nincipal Provinces of Tonquin, viz. the West Province that of Cachao, and the East Province, The North Province, as it is large, so it has Variety of Land and Soil ; a great deal of plain Champion Land, and many high Mountains which yield Gold, &c. The wild Elephants of thb Country are found most on these Mountains. The other Parts of the Province produce Lack and Silk, &c. The Province of Cachao, in the Heart of the Kingdom, lies between the East, West, North, and South Provinces : *tis a Champion pleasant Country : the Soil is yellow or grey Earth : and 'tis pretty woody, with some &ivannahs. It abounds with the two principal Commodities of their Trade, viz. Lack and Silk, and has some Rice : Nor are any of the Provinces destitute of these Commodities, tho' in different Proportions, each according to the respective Soil. This Country has of its own Growth all Necessaries for the Life of Man. They have little Occasion for eatable Roots, having such Plenty of Rice ; yet they have Yams and Potatoes for Variety ; which would thrive here as well as any where, were the Natives industrious to propagate them. The Land is every where cloathed with Herbage of one kind or other ; but the dry Land has the same Fate that 574 i HERBAGE— WILD PURSLAIN— FRUITS most dry Lxnds have between the Troplcks, to be over-run ah. , with Purslain ; which growing wild, ind being pernicious '*•* to other tender Herbs and Plants, they arc at the Pains to weed it out of their Fields and Gardens, though 'tis very sweet, and makes a good Sallad for a hot Country. There is a Sort of Herb very common in this Country, which grows wild in stagnant Ponds, and floats on the Surface of the Water. It has a narrow, long, green thick Leaf. It is much esteemed and eaten by the Natives, who commend it for a very wholesome Herb, and say that 'tis good to expel Poyson. This Country produces many other Sorts of wild Herbs ; and their Gardens also arc well fur- nished with pleasant and wholesome ones, especially many Onions, of which here arc great Plenty. Plantains and Bonanoes grow and thrive here as well as any where, but they are used here only as Fruit, and not ;for Bread, as in many Places of America. Besides these lere are divers sorts of excellent Fruits, both Ground-fruit and Trcc-fruit. The Ground-fruits arc Pumpkins, Melons, Finc-applcs, &c. the Tree-fruits are Mangoes,' a few Oranges, Limes, Coco-nuts, Guava's,* Mulberries, their much esteemed Belle, a Fruit called Lichea.* &c. The Oranges are of divers Sorts, and two of them more excellent than the rest. One Sort is called Cam-chain, the other is call'd Cam-quit. Cam, in the Tonquincse Language, signifies an Orange, but what the distinguishing Words Chain and Quit signifie I know not. The Cam-chain* is a large Orange, of a yellowish Colour: The Rind is pretty thick and rough; and the Inside is yellow like Amber. It has a most fragrant Smell, and the Taste is very delicious. This Sort of Orange is the best that I did ever taste; 1 believe there are not better in the World : A Man may cat freely of them ; for they arc so innocent that they are not denied to such as h>7e Fercn, and other sick People. ' Ummr^trm mdiat, • t'tiMum *oma/mim atid prnfrmm. ■ Lkbn : NffJuimm UI(M. ' Citrus imUm. 575 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The Cam-quit * is a very small round Fruit, not above '^^ half so big as the former. It is of a deep red Colour, and the Rind is very smooth and thin. The Inside also is very red ; the Taste is not inferiour to the Cam-chain, but it is accounted very unwholesome Fruit, especially to such as are subject to Fluxes ; for it both creates and hdghtens that Distemper. These two Sorts are very plentiful and cheap, and they are in Season from Octobo- till February, but then the Cham-chain becomes redder, and the Rind is also thinner. The other Sorts of Oranges are not much esteemed. The Limes* of Tonquin are the largest I ever saw. They are commonly as big as an ordinary Limon, but rounder. The Rind is of a pale yellow Colour when ripe ; very thin and smooth. They are extraordinary juicy, but not near so sharp or tart in Taste as the West-Indian Limes. Coco-nuts and Guava's do thrive here very well : but there are not many of the latter. The Betle of Tonquin is said to be the best in India ; there is great Plenty of it ; and *tis most esteemed when it is young, green and tender; for *tis then very juicy. At Mindanao also they like it best green : but in other Places of the East-Indies it is commonly chew*d when it is hard and dry. The Lichea is another delicate Fruit. *Tis as big as a small Pear, somewhat long shaped, of a reddish Colour, the Rind pretty thick and rough, the Inside white, inclosing a large black Kernal, in Shape like a Bean. The Country is in some part woody ; but the low Land in general is either grassy Pasture, or Rice Fields, only thick set with small Groves, which stand scattering very pleasantly over all the low-Country. The Trees in the Groves are of divers Sorts, and most unknown to us. There is good Timber for building either Ships or Houses and indifferent good Masts may here be had. There is a Tree called by the Natives Pone, chiefly used * Perhaps the mandarin. ' Citrus Decumana (the shaddock) and C medUa, 576 r MULBERRY TREES— RICE making Gibintts, or other Wares to be lackrcd. This is a soft Sort of Wooii, not much unlike Fir, but not so ' serviceable. Another Tree grows in this Country that yields the Lack, with which Cabinets and other fine Things are overlaid. These grow plentifully in some Places, especially in the Champion Lands. Here arc also Mulberry Trees in great Plenty, to feed the Silk-worms, from whence comes the chief Trade in the Country. The Leaves of the old Trees are not so nourishing to the Silk-worms, as those of the young Trees ; and therefore they raise Crops of young ones every Year, to feed the Worms; for when the Season is over, the young Trees arc plucki up by the Roots, and more planted against the next year; so the Natives suffer none of these Trees to grow to bear Fruit. I heard of no Mulberries kept for eating, hut some few raised by our English Merchants at Hean ; and these bear but small hungry Fruit. Here is good Plenty of Rice, especially in the low Land, that is tatned by the overflowing Rivers. They have two Crops every Year, with great Inaease, if they have seasonable Rains and Floods. One Crop is in May, and the other in November: and though the low Land is sometimes overflown with Water in the Time of Harvest, yet they matter it not, but gather the Crop and fetch it Home wet in their Canoas ; and making the Rice fast in small Bundles, hang it up on their Houses to dry. Thts serves them for Bread-corn ; and as the Country is very kindly for it, so their Inhabitants live chiefly of it. Of Ljind-Animals in this Country there arc lilephanis. Horses, Buffaloes, Bullocks, Gusts, Deer, a few Sheep for the King, Hogs, Dogs, Cats, Lizards, Snakes, Scorpions, Ccnupccs, Toads, Frogt, &c. The Country is so very populous, that they have but few Deer or wild Game for Hunting, unless it l>e in the remoter Parts of the Kingdom. But they have Abundance of Fowls both tame and wild. The tame Fowls arc Cocks and Hens, and Ducks also in : Plenty, of the same Sort wirh ours. The Inhabiunis iRve little Houses made purposely for the Ducks to lay ' l%g> ii< driving tbcm in every Night in laying Tittte, 577 3 o CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS. and letting them out again in the Morning. There are '^^ also some Geese, Parrots, Partridges, Parakites, Turtie- Doves, &c. with many sorts of smaller Birds. Of wild Water-fowls, they have Ducks, Widgeons, Teals, Herons, Pellicans, and Crab-catchers, (which 1 shall describe in the Bay of Gtmpeachy) and other smaller Water-fowls. The Duck, Widgeon, and Teal are innumerable : They breed here in the Months of May, June, and July ; then thcy^ fly only in Couples : but from October to March you wil"*^ see over all the low watry Lands great Companies together and I have no where .seen such large Flights, nor suc^ Plenty of Game. They are very shy since the English ai^^ Dutch settled here ; for now the Natives as well as th^r shoot them : but before their Arrival the Tonquinese tool them only with Nets, neither is this Custom left oflF ycf. The Net that is used for this Game is made square, 2ad either bigger or less according as they have Occasion. They fix two Poles about ten or eleven Foot high, upright in the Ground, near the Ponds, where the Ducks haunt; and the Net has a Head-cord, which is stretched out streight, made from the Top of one Pole to the other; from whence the lower part of the Net hangs down loose towards the Ground ; and when in the Evening they fly towards the Pond, many of them strike against the Net, and are there entangled. There is a kind of Locust in Tonquin, in great Abun- dance. This Creature is about the Bigness of the Top of a Man's Finger, and as long as the first Joynt. It breeds in the Earth, especially in the Banks of Rivers and Ditches in the low Country. In the Months of January and February, which is the Season of taking them, being then only seen, this Creature first comes out of the Earth ui huge Swarms, it is then of a whitish Colour, having two small Wings, like the Wings of a Bee : at its first coming out of the Earth it takes its Flight ; but for Want or Strength or Use falls down again in a short Time. Such as strive to fly over the River, do commonly fall down into the Water and are drowned, or become a Prey to the Fish of the River, or are carried out into the Sea to be devoured 578 FROGS— FISH— BALACHAUN [there : But the Natives in these Months watch the Rivers, i and take up thence Multitudes, skimming thcni from off ' the Water with little Nets. They cat them (rcsh, broiled on ihc Coats ; or pickle them lo keep. They arc plump and fat, and are much esteemed by Rich and I'oor, as good wholesome Food, cither fresh or pickled. The Rivers and Ponds art stored with divers Sorts of excellent i'ish, besides Abundance of Kri^;s, which they angle for, being highly esteemed by the Tonquinesc. The Sea too contributes much towards the Support of poor People, by yielding plentiful Stores uf Msh, that swarm on this Coast in their Seasons, and which are commonly prc- ferr'd before the River Kish. Of these here are divers Sorts, besides Sea-Turtle, which frequently come ashore on the sandy Bays in their Seasons to lay their Eggs. Here are also both Land-crabs and Sea-crabs good Store, and other ShcU-fish, viz. Craw-fish, Shrimps, and Prawns, Here is one Sort of small Fish much like an Anchovy, both in Shape and Size, which is very good pickled. I There are other Sorts of small Kish, which 1 know not the frames of. One Sort of them comes in great Shoals near 1 the Shore, and these the Fishermen with their Nets take so plentifully as to load their Bunts with them. Among these they generally take a great many Shrimps in their Nets, which they carry ashore mixt together as they take them, and make ilalachaun with them, Balachaun is a Compoution of a strong Savour; yet a very delightsome Dish to the Natives of this Country. To nuke it, they throw the Mixture of Shrimps and small FiUi into a sort of weak Pickle made with Salt and Water, and put it into a tight earthen Vessel or Jar. The Pickle being thus Weak, it keeps not the Fish 6rm and hard, neither is it probably vt designed, for the Fish arc never gutted. Therefore in a short Time they turn all to a Mash in the Vessel ; and when they have tain thus a good while, so that the Fish is reduced to a Pip, they then draw ofF the Liquor into fresh Jars, and [Tcscrve it for use. The masht Fish that remains behind is called Balachaun, tnd the Liquor pour'd off U called Nuke-mum. The poor 579 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. People eat the Balachaun with their Rice. *Tis rank- '688 scented, yet the Taste is not altogether unpleasant; but rather savory, after one is a little used to it. The Nuke- mum is of a pale brown Colour, inclining to grey; and pretty clear. It is also very savory and used as a good Sauce for Fowls, not only by the Natives, but also by many Europeans, who esteem it equal with Soy. I have been told that Soy is made partly with a fishy Composition, and it seems most likely by the Taste : tho* a Gentleman of my Acquaintance, who was very intimate with one that sailed often from Tonquin to Japan, from whence the true Soy comes, told me, that it was made only with Wheat, and a Sort of Beans mixt with Water and Salt. Their way of Fishing differs little from ours : in the Rivers they take some of their Fish with Hook and Line, others with Nets of several Sorts. At the Mouths of the Rivers they set Nets against the Stream or Tide. These have two long Wings opening on each Side the Mouth of the Net, to guide the Fish into it ; where passing through a narrow Neck, they are caught in a Bag at the farther End. Where the River*s Mouth is so wide, that the Wing of the Net will not reach from side to side, as at Batsha , particularly it will not, there they supply that Defect, with long slender Canes, which they stick upright near one another in a Row : for on both Sides of the River, when the Tide runs strong (which is the Time that the Fish arc moving) the limber Canes make such a rattling by striking against each other, that thereby the F^ish are scared from thence towards the Mouth of the Net, in the Middle of the Stream. P'arther up the River, they have Nets made square like a great Sheet. This Sort hath two long Poles laid across each other. At this crossing of the Poles a long Rope is fastned ; and the Net hangs down in a Bag by its Corners from them. To manage it there is a sub- stantial Post, set upright and firm in the River ; and the Top of it may be eight or ten Foot above the Water. On the Top of this Post there is a Mortice made to receive a long Pole, that lies athwart like the Beam of a Balance: 580 FISHING— MARKETS— PROVISIONS to the heavier End of which they tic the Rope, which holds the Net ; and to the other End another Rope to pull up '*** the Net on Occasion. The Fishermen sink it with Stones to the River's Bottom, and when they sec any Fish come over it, one suddenly pulls the Rope at the opposite End of the Beam, and heaves Net and Fish out of the Water. They take a great deal of Fish this way : and sometimes they use Drag-Ncts, which go quite a-croas, and sweep the River, In the stagnant Ponds, such as the Mandarins have immonly about their Houses, they go in and trouble the 'ater with their Feet, till 'tis all muddy and thick: and as the Fish rise to the Surface they take what they please with small Nets, fastned to a Hoop, at the End of a Pole. For all these Sorts of Provision there arc Markets duly kept all over Tonquin one in the Week, in a Neighbour- hotxl of four or five Villages; and held at each of them successively in its Order : so that the same Village lias not the Market returned to it till four or five Weeks after. These Markets are abundantly more stor'd with Rite (as being their chief Subsistence, especially the poorer Sort) than cither with Flesh or Fish, yet wants there not for Pork, and young Pigs good Store, Ducks and Hens, Plenty of Eggs, Fish great and small, frvsh and salted Balachaun and Nuke-Mum ; with all Sorts of Roots, Herbs, and Fruits, even in these Country Markets. But at Cachao, where there are Markets kept every day, they have besides these. Beef of Bullocks, BufiaIoesunt alone more inclined to great Heats, Places near the Equator. This is what I have cx- ^nccd in nuny places in such Latitudes both in the ist and West-Indies, that the hottest parts of the World CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. arc these near the Tropicks, especially 3 or 4 Degrees 1688 ^thin them ; sensibly hotter than under the Line it self. Many reasons may be assigned for this, beside the accidental ones from the make of the particular Countries, Tropical Winds, or the like. For the longest Day at the Equator never exceeds 12 Hours, and the Night b always at the same length : But near the Tropicks the longest Day is about 13 Hours and an half; and an Hour and an half being also taken from the Night, what with the length of the Day, and the shortness of the Night, there is a difference of three Hours : which is very considerable. Besides which, at such Places as are about 3 Degrees within the Tropicks, or in the Lat. of 20 Deg. N. the Sun comes within 2 or 3 Degrees of the Zenith in the beginning of May; and having past the Zenith, goes not above 2 or 3 Degrees beyond it, before it returns and passeth the Zenith once more ; and by this means is at least three Months within 4 Degrees of the Zenith : so that they have the Sun in a manner over their Heads from the beginning of May, till the latter end of July. Whereas when the Sun comes under the Line, in March or September, it immediately posts away to the North or the South, and is not 20 Day's in passing from 3 Degrees on one side, to 3 Degrees on the other side the Line. So that by his small stay there, the Heat cannot be answerable to what it is near the Tropick, where he so long continues in a manner Vertical at Noon, and is so much longer above the Horizon each particular Day, with the intervening of a shorter Night. But to return to Tonquin. During the wet Months there 'tis excessive hot, especially whenever the Sun breaks out of the Clouds, and there is then but little Wind stirring : And I have been told by a Gentleman who lived there many Years, that he thought it was the hottest Place that ever he was in, though he had been in many other Parts of India. And as to the Rains, it has not the least share of them, though neither altogether the greatest of what I have met with in the Torrid Zone ; and even in the same Latitude, and on the same side of the Equator. The wet Season begins here the latter End of April, or 584 FLOODS— OVERFLOW OF THE NILE the beginning of May; and holds till the Utter End of ak. August, in which Time are very violent Kains, some of '*™ many Hours, others of two or three Days continuance. Yet arc not these Rains without some considerable intervals of fair Weather, especially toward the beginning or end of the Season. By these Kains are caus'd those Land-flnnds, which never fail in these Countries between the Tropicks at their annual Periods ; all the Rivers then overflowing their Banks. This is a thing so well known to all who are any way acquainted with the Torrid Zone, that the Cause of the overflowing of the Nile, to find out which the Ancients set thctr Wits so much upon the Rack, and fancied melting of snows, and blowing of Etesia, and I know not what, is now no longer a Secret. For these Floods must needs discharge themselves upon such low Lands as lie in their way; as the Land of Egypt docs with respect to the Nile, coming a great way from within the Torrid Zone, and falling down from the higher Ethiopia. And any one who will be at the Pains to com- pare the Titnc of the Land-flood in Egypt with that of the Torrid Zone in any of the parts of it along which the Nile runs, will find that of Egypt so much later than the other, as 'twill be thought reasonable to allow for the daily Prioress of the Waters along so vast a tract of Ground. They might have made the same wonderment of any other Rivers which run any long Course from out the Torrid Zone : but they knowing only the North Temperate Zone, and the Nile being the only great River known to come thither a great way from a Country near the Line, they made that only the subject of their enquiry : but the same effect must also follow from any great River that should run from out of the Torrid Zone into the South Temperate Zone. And as to the Torrid Zone, the yearly Floods, and their cause, are every where as well known by People there, as the Rivers themselves. In America particularly, in Campeachy Rivers, in Rio Grande, and others, 'tis a vast havnck ia made by these Floods; s Trees of an incredible bigness; 5«5 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. and these Floods always come at the stated season of the 1688 Year. In the dry part of Peru, along the G>asts of the Pacifick Sea, where it never Rains, as it seldom does in Egypt, they have not only Floods, but Rivers themselves, made by the annual falling of Rain (Hi the Mountains within Land ; the Channels of which are dry all the rest of the Year. This I have observed concerning the River Ylo, on the Coast of Peru, in my former Volume, p. 122. But it has this difference from the Floods of Egypt, that besides its being a River in the Torrid Zone, *tis also in South Latitude, and so overflows at a contrary Season of the Year; to wit, at such Time as the Sun being in Southern Signs, causes the Rains and Floods on that side the Line. But to return from this digression, in August the weather at Tonquin is more moderate, as to heat or wet, yet not without some showers, and September and October are more temperate still : yet the worst weather in all the Year for Seamen, is the one of the 3 Months last men- tioned : for then the violent Storms, called Tufibons (Typhones) are expected. These Winds are so very fierce, that for Fear of them the Chinese that trade thither, will not stir out of Harbour till the End of October : after which Month there is no more Danger of any violent Storms, till the next Year. TufFoons are a particular kind of violent Storms, blowing on the Coast of Tonquin, and the neighbouring Coasts in the Months of July,^ August, and September. They commonly happen near the Full or Change of the Moon, and are usually preceded by very fair Weather, small Winds and a clear Sky. Those small Winds veer from the common Trade of that Time of the Year, which is here at S. W. and shuffles about to the N. and N. E. Before the Storm comes there appears a boding Cloud * Cf. the "Typhoon rh>'nie" :— "June, too soon. July, stand by. August, look out you must. September, remember. Octol^er, all over." 586 TUFFOONS OR TYPHOONS, STORMS 'in the N. K. which is very black near the Horizon, hut towards the upper Edge it looks of a dark Copper-colour, ' and higher still it is mighter, and afterwards It fades to a whitish glaring Colour, at the very Kdgc of the Cloud. This Cloud appears very amazing and ghastly, and is sometimes seen twelve I lours before the Storm comes. When that Cloud begins to move apace, you may expect the Wind presently. It comes on fierce, and blows very violent at N. K. twelve Hours more or less. It h also commonly accompanied with terrible Claps of Thunder, large and frequent flashes of Ughtning, and excessive hard Rain, When the Wind begins to abate it dies away suddenly, and falling flat calm, it continues so an Hour, more or less : then the Wind comes about to the S, W. and it blows and rains as fierce from thence, as it did bcture at N. E. and as long. November and December arc 2 very dry, wholcsom, warm and pleasant Months. January, February, and March are pretty dry : but then you have thick Fogs in the Morning, and sometimes drtsling cold Kains : the Air al5ruary is very sharp, especially when the Wind is at North East, or North North East, whether because of the garter it blows from, or the Land it blows over, I know not : for I have elsewhere observed such Winds to be colder, where they have come from over Land. April is counted a moderate Month, either as to Heat or Cold, ^EPryness or Moisture. ^H This is ordinaniy the State of their Year: yet are ^BlDt these various Seasons so exact in the Returns, but ^B&at tlicrc may sometimes be the Difl^erence of a Month, ^ntr more. Neither ytM are the several Seasons, when they ^■qo cnmc, altogether alike in all Years. For sometimes the Rains are more violent and lasting, at other l"imcs more moderate ; and some Years they arc not sufficient to produce reasonable Crops, or else they come so un- i to injure and destroy the Rice, or at least il Vance it but little. For the Husbandry of this Lplhcr Cijuntrics in the Torrid Zone depends I THE POOR PEOPLE OF TONQUIN !-of Malabar and Coromandcl, and this o( Tnnquin, that the more Rain they have there, the greater is their Blessing: ' but here ihey may have too much Rain for the lower part of the Kingdom ; but that is rare. When this happens they have Banks to keep in the Rivers and Ditches to tfratti the Land ; though sometimes to little purpose, when the Floods arc violent, and especially if out of Season. For if the Floods come in their Seasons, though tht-y are great, and drown all the Land, yet arc they not hurtful ; but on the contrary, very beneficial, because the mud that they leave behind fattens the Land. And after all, if the low Land should be injured by the Floods, the dry Champion Land yields the better increase, and helps out the other; as that does them also in more kindly Seasons. In the dry Seasons the low Lands have this Advantage, that Channels are easily cut out of the River, to water them each side. So that let the Season he wet or dry, this luntry seldom suffers much. Indeed considering the Number of its Inhabitants, and the Poverty of the major part, it is sometimes here, as in all populous Countries, very hard with the poor, especially the Tradespeople in the large Towns. For the Trade is very uncertain, and the People are imployed according to the number of Ships that come thither, to fetch away their Gotxts: and if but few Ships come hither, as sometimes it happens, then the poor arc ready to famish for want of work, whereby to get a Subsistance. And not only this, but most Silk Countries are stixkt with great Multitudes of poor People, who work cheap and live meanly on a little Rice ; which if it is not very cheap, as it commonly is here, the poor People are not able to matnlain themselves. J«9 CHAP, in To : Of the Nativis »/ Taiiqu'in : Tht'ir Farm, Diipoiit'ion, Capadly, CUatkt, Buililingi, Vilhgti^ Grovti, Bunh, Ditchei, and Gardent. Of Cac/iao, the Capital City. Ovens ta secure Goods from Fire j and other Preiautions against it. The Streets of the City, the Kings Pa/aces, and English and Dutch Factories. An Artificial Mole above the City, to break the Force of the Land-floods. Of their IVives and Common IVomen, Feasts at the Graves of the Dead, and Annual Feasts : their entertaining with Belle and Arek, i£c. Their Religien, Idols, Pagods, Priests, Offerings, and Prayers. Their Language and Learning. Their Mechanick Am, Trades, Manufactures, Commodities and Traffick. ^ONQUIN is very populous, being thick-set with Villages; and the Natives in general are of a middle Stature, and clean iimb'd. They are of a Tawny Indian colour : but 1 think the fairest and clearest that I ever saw of that Complexion : for you may perceive a Blush or Change of Colour in some oi their Faces, on any sudden Surprize of Passion ; which I could never discern in any other Indians. Their Faces are gene- rally flattish, and of an oval Form. Their Noses and Lips are proportionable enough, and altogether graceful. Their Hair is black, long and lank, and very thick; and they wear it hanging down to their Shoulders. Their Teeth are as black as they can make them ; for this being accounted a great Ornament, they dye them of that Colour,' and are three or four Days doing it. They do this when they are about twelve or fourteen Years old, both Boys and Girls : and during all the Time of the ' " With the Juice of a certain Herb which they hold in their Mouths for three Days successively, and the black Tincture continues ever after." {A. Hamilton, New Account of the East Indies, tcA. ii. p. 215.) 590 I BLACKING OF TEETH A BEAUTY Operation they dare not take any Nourishment, besides *if.l Water, Chau, or some liquid Thing, and not much of that •''°" neither, for fear, 1 judge, of being pnyson'd by the Dye, or Figment. So that while this is doing they undergo very severe Penance: but as both Sexes, so all Qualities, the Poor as well as the rich, must be in this Fashion: they say they should else be like Brutes; and that would be a great Shame to them to be like I'".lcphants or Dt^s ; which they compare those to that have white Teeth. They are generally dextrous, nimble, and active, and ingenious in any Mcchanick Science they profess. This may be seen by the Multitude of fine Silks that are made here ; and the curious Lacker-work, that is yearly trans- ported from thence. They are also laborious and diligent m their Callings; but the Country being so very populous, many of them are extreme poor for Want of Employment : and tho* the Country is full of Silk, and other Materials to work on, yet little is done, but when strange Ships arrive. For 'tis the Money and Goods that are brought hither, especially by the English and Dutch, that puts Life into them : for the Handicrafts Men have not Money to set themselves to work ; and the Foreign Merchants are there- fore forced to trust them with Advance- money, to the Value of at least a third, or half their Goods \ and this for two or three Months or more, before they hive made their Goods, atKi brought them in. So that they having no Goods ready by them, til) they have Money from the Merchant Siratigcrs. the Ships that trade hither must of Necessity stay here all the time that their Goods are making, hich arc commonly 5 or h Months. The Tonquittcsc make very good Servants; 1 think the best in India. For as they are generally apprehensive and docil.so are they faithful when hired, diligent and obedient. Yet they arc low spirited : ' probably by reason of their living under an Arbitrary Government. They are patient in Labour, but in ^ckncss they arc mightily dcjeaed. They have one great Fault extreme common among them, ' " Thcv aro BM much KivcD in Choler, r«i arc addicted 10 ihe Ui worse IHuiMu of Mtvjr ami nahca, even 10 ma «simiMi dcfive ° (.Vimmm/ Uttnmit CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. which is gaming. To this they are so universally addicted, 1688 Servants and all, that neither the awe of their Masters, nor any Thing else, is sufficient to restrain them, till they have lost all they have, even their very Cloaths. This is a reigning Vice among the Eastern Nations, especially the Chinese, as I said in the 1 5th Chapter of my former Volume. And I may add, that the Chinese I found settled at Tonquin, were no less given to it than those I met with elsewhere. For after they have lost their Money, Goods and Cloaths, they will stake down their Wives and Children : and lastly, as the dearest Thing they have, will play upon tick, and mortgage their Hair upon Honour : And whatever it cost them they will be sure to redeem it. For a free Chinese as these are, who have fled from the Tartars, would be as much ashamed of short Hair, as a Tonquinese of white Teeth. The Cloaths of the Tonquinese are made either of Silk or Cotton. The poor People and Soldiers do chiefly wear Cotton Cloath dyed to a dark tawny Colour. The rich Men and Mandarins commonly wear English Broad-Cloath : the chief Colours are red or green. When they appear before the King, they wear long Gowns which reach to their Heels : neither may any Man appear in his presence but in such a Garb. The great Men have also long Caps made of the same that their Gowns are made of: but the middle sort of Men and the poor commonly go bare-headed. Yet the Fishermen, and such Labourers as are by their Employments more exposed to the Weather, have broad- brimm'd Hats made of Reeds, Straw, or Palmeto-leaves. These Hats are as stiff as Boards, and sit not pliant to their Heads : for which reason they have Band-strings or Neck- laces fastened to their Hats ; which coming under their Chins are there tied, to keep their Hats fast to their Heads. These Hats are very ordinary Things ; they seldom wear them but in rainy Weather. Their other Cloaths are very few and mean : a ragged pair of Breeches commonly sufficeth them. Some have bad Jackets, but neither Shirt, Stockings nor Shooes. The Tonquinese Buildings are but mean. There 592 e THEIR HOUSES AND FURNITURE [ouses arc small and low: the Walls arc cither Mud, or Wattle Iwdawbcd over: and the Roofs arc thatched, and ' that Very ill, especially in the Country. The Houses are toti low to admit of Chambers : yet they have here 2 or 3 Partitions on the Ground-floor, made with a watling of Canes or Sticks, for their several uses; in each of which there is a Window to let in the Jight. 'I'hc Windows are very small square Hotcs in the Walls, which they shut up at Night with a Board fitted for that Purpose. The Rooms arc but meanly furnished; with a poor Bed or two (or more, according to the bigness of the Family) in the inner Room. The outer Rooms arc furnished with Stools, nchcs, or Chairs to sit on. There is also a Table, and m one side a little Altar, with two Incense-pots on it; nor any House without its Altar. One of these Incense Pots a small bundle of Rushes in it ; the ends of which I Iways took notice had been burnt, and the fire put out. outer Room is the place where they commonly dress their Food : yet in fair Weather they do it as frequently in the open Air, at their Doors, or in their Yards; as being thereby the less incomm«t!k I KjiI Indian Company ■iT-n lilt l.rifl-iV, aiM Ilic T.innuiiif w: by an ad of LtuUlily. (Irawinit i*l ''Ch4-cho*(Chun:hiir( ** Viiyagci,* viiL vl p \\, ibe •Tf ippean to the imnh of ibr EauKih hoaw and »e(>anil«d firon CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES . large as ours, tho' they are the longest Standers here by ^ many Years : for the English are but newly removed hither from Hean, where they resided altogether before. There is nothing more in or about the City worth noting, but only a Piece of Work on the same side, up the River. This is a massy Frame of Timber, ingeniously put together, and very artificially placed on great Piles, that are set upright in the River, just by its Banks. The Piles are driven firmly into the Ground, close one by another : and all the space between them and the Bank is filled up with Stones, and on them great Trees laid a-cross, and pinn'd fast to each end of the Piles. So that the whole Fabrick must be moved before any part of it will yield. This Piece of Work is raised about i6 or 17 Foot above the Water in the dry Time, but in the wet Season the Floods come within 2 or 3 Foot of the Top. It was made to resist the violence of the Water in the rainy Season : for the Stream then presseth so hard against this Place, that before , this Pile was built, it broke down the Bank, and threatned I to carry all before it, even to the ruining of the City, if this I course had not timely been taken to prevent it. And so much the rather, because there is a lai^ Fond just within Land, and low Ground between it and the City : So that had it made but a small breach into the Pond, it would have come even to the Skirts of the City. And though the City stands so high as that the Land-floods never reach it, yet the Land on which it stands being a sort of yielding Sand, could not be thought capable of always resisting such violence. For the natural Floods do very often make great changes in the River, breaking down one point of Land, and making another point in the opposite side of the River; and that chiefly in this part of the Country, where it Is bounded with high Banks : for nearer the Sea, where it presently overflows, the Floods do seldom make any con- siderable change, and move more quietly. But to return to the People. They are courteous and civil to Strangers, especially the trading People : But the great Men are Proud, Haughty and Ambitious; and the Soldiers very insolent, The poorer sort arc very Thievish ; 598 WOMEN LET OUT TO STRANGERS insomuch that the Factors and Strangers thai Tniffick hither am. arc forced to keep good Watch in the Night to secure their '*** Goods, notwithstanding the severe Punishments they have against Thieving. They have indeed great Opportunities of Thieving, the Houses being so slightly built : But they will work a way under Ground, rather than fail ; and use many subtle Sinitagenis. lama Stranger to any Ceremonies used by them in Marriage, or at the Birth of a Child, or the like, if they use any : Polygamy is allowed of in this Country, and they buy their Wives of the Parents. The King and great Men keep several, as their Inclinations lead them, and their Ability serves. The Poor are stinted for want of means more than desire : For though many arc not able to buy, much less to maintain one Wife ; yet most of them make a shift to get one, for here arc some very low-prized ones that arc glad to ukc up with poor Husbands. But then in hard Times, the Man must sell both Wife and Children, to buy Rice to maintain himself. Yet this is not so common here as in some Places ; as 1 before observed [of the Malabar and Coromandel Coasts, This Custom .mong them of buying Wives, cawly degenerates into thai "her of hiring Misses, and gives great Liberty to the young 'omen, who ofitr themselves of their own accord to any irangcrs, who will go to their Price- There are of ihcm of ■11 Prizes, from too Dollars to 5 Dollars, and the Refuse of all will be caressed by the poor Seamen : Such as the Lascan, who are Moors of India, coming hither in Vessels &um Kort St. George, and other Places ; who yet have ithing to give them, but such Fragments of Food, as their _ immons will aflbrd. Even the great Men of Tonquin will oflfcr their Daughters to the Merchants and Officers, though their Stay is not likely to he above five or six Months in the Country : neither arc they afraid to be with Child by White Men, for their Children will be much fairer than their Mrtthcrs, and consequently of greater Repute, when they grow up, if they be Girts. Nor is it any great Charge 10 breed them here : and at the worst, if their Mothers arc >t able to maintain them, 'tb but selling them when they young. But to return, the Women who thus tec 599 'CAPTArtJ DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AH. themselvu to hire, if they have been so frugal as to save '*** what they have got by these loose Amours, they soon procure Huabancb, that will love and esteem them well enough: and themselves also will prove afterwards obedient and fiiithful Wives. Fof *tis said, that even while they are with Strangers, they ore Very faithful to them ; especially to such as remain long in the Country, or make annual Returns hither, as the Dutch generally do. Many of these have gotten good Estates I^ their Tonquin Ladies, and that oiiefly by trusting them with Money and Goods. For in this poor Country 'tis a great Advantage to watch the Market; and these Female Merchants having Stocks will mightily improve them, talring their Opportunities of buy- ing raw Slk in the dead Time of the Year. With this they will employ the poor People, when Work is scarce ; and get it cheaper and better done, than when Ships are here : for then every Man being employed and in a Hurry of -Bunness, he will have his Price according to the Haste of Work. And by thb Means they will get their Goods ready i^inst the Ships arrive, and before the ordinary worldng Season, to the Profit both of the Merchant and the Pagally. When a Man dies he is interr'd in his own Land, for here are no common Burying-places : And within a Month afterwards the Friends of the Deceased, especially if he was the Master of the Family, must make a great Feast of Flesh and Fruit at the Grave. 'Tis a Thing belonging to the Priest's Office to assist at this Solemnity ; they are always there, and take care to see that the Friends of the Deceased have it duly performed. To make this Feast they are obliged to sell a Piece of Land, tho' they have Money enough otherways: Which Money they bestow in such Things as are necessary for the Solemnity, which is more or less, according to the Quality of the Deceased. If he was a great Man, there is a Tower of Wood erected over the Grave ; it may be 7 or 8 Foot square, and built 20 or 25 Foot high. About 20 Yards from the Tower, arc little Sheds, built with Stalls, to lay the Provisions on, both of Meat and Fruits of all Sorts, and that in great Plenty. 600 [PASTIMES AT NEW YEAR'S FEASTS flithcr the Country People resort to fill their Bellies, i the Feast seems to be free for all Comers, at least of t Neighbourhood. How it is drcst or distributed about, know not ; but there the People wait till 'tis ready. Tlw the Priest gets within the Tower, and climbs up to the To and looking out from thence, makes an Oration to t] People below. After this the Priest descends, and th( they set Kirc tn the Foundation of the Tower, burning down to the Ground^ and when this is done they fall I their Meat. I saw one of these Grave-Feasts, which 1 shi have elsewhere occasion to mention. The Tonquincse have two Annual Feasts. The chii is at the first New-Moon of the New- Year: and the New-Year begins with the first New-Moon that falls < after the Middle of January, for else that Moon is reckon' to the Old Year. At this Time they make merry an rejoycc lo or 12 Days, and then there is no Busine done, but every Man makes himself fine as may b etpccially the common Sort. These spend their Time I Gaming or Sporting, and you <>hall see the Streets full ^ People, both Citizens and Country-Folks, gazing at sever diverting Exercises. Some set up Swings in the Strcel and get Money of those that will swing in them. Tl Frames arc contrived like ours in the Fields about Lottdq in Holiday Times: but they who swing stand upright \ the lower part of the Swing, which is only a Stick standln on each End, being fzstned to a pendulous Rot«, whU ihcy hold fast with their Hands on each side ; and thl raise themselves to such a prodigious Hdghth, that if tL Swing should break they must needs break their Umbs 1 best, if not kill themselves out-right. Others spend the Time in Drinking. Their ordinary Drink is Tea: b they make themselves merry with hot Rack, which sorr limes also they mix with their Tea. Fliiher way it hal an odd nasty Taste, but is very strong ; and is thercfoi much esteemed by them, especially at this Time, whi they so much devote themselves to Minh, or Madness, 1 even bestial Drunkenness. The richer Sort arc more I yet they will also he very merry at this Tin 6ot CAPTAm DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The NoUes treat their Friends with good Cheer and the **** best Rack; hut indeed there is none good in this Country. Yet such as they have they esteem as a great Cordial; especially when Snakes and Scorpions have been infused therein, as I have been informed. This is not only ac- counted a great Cordial, but an Antidote against the Leprosy, and all Sorts of Poison ; and 'tis accounted a Ssat I^ece cf Respect to any one to treat him with this quor. I had this Relation from one that had been treated thus by many of the great Men. They also at this Time more especially chew Abundance of Betle, and make- jfte* seats thuiof to one another. The Betle Leaf is the great Entertainmeat in tJie Eart for all Vintants; and 'tis always ^ven with the Arek folded up in it. They make up the Arek in Pellets fit for use, by first peeling off the outer green hatd Itiiid of the Nuts, and then splitting it length-ways in three or £aar Parts, more or less, according to its Bipum, Then they dawb the Leaf all over with Chinam or lime made into a Mortar or Paste, and kq>t in a Box for this Furpoie, spreading it thin. And here by the Way I shall take Nodce of a Slip in the former Volume, p. 327* which 1 desire may be cm^ reeled : the Nut being there by Mistake call'd the Betle, and the Arek-tree call'd the Betlc-tree, whereas Betle is the name of the leaf they chew. In this Leaf thus spread with Chinam, they roll up a slice of Arek Nut, very neatly, and make a Petlet of about an Inch long, and as big as the Top of one's Finger. Every Man here has a Box that will hold a great many of these Pellets, in which they keep a Store ready made up ; for all Persons, of what Quality soever, from the Prince to the Beggar, chew Abundance of it. The poorer Sort carry a smalt Pouchful about with them : But the Mandarins, or great Men, have curious oval Boxes, made purposely for this use, that will hold fifty or sixty Betle Pellets. These Boxes are neatly lackered and gilded, both Inside and Outside, with a Cover to take off; and if any Stranger visits them, especially Europeans, they are sure, among other good Entertainment, 602 f PRESENTS OF BETLE I' be treated with a Box of fietle. The Attendant that an. brings it, holds it to the left Hand of the Stranger ; who '*** therewith taking off the Cover, takes with his right Hand the Nuts out of the Box. 'Twere an Affront to take them, or give or receive any thing with the left Hand, which is confined all over India to the viler Uses. It is accounted good Breeding to commend the Taste Neatness of this Present ; and ihcy all love to be ttcr'd. You thereby extreamly please the Master of the House, and ingage him to be your Friend : and afterwards you may be sure he will not fail to send his Servant with a ' Present of Betle once in two or three Mornings, with a Complement to know how you do. Thia will cost you a small Gratuity to the Servant, who joyfully acquaints his Master how gratefully you received the Present : and this still engages him more; and he will complement you with great Respect whenever he meets you. I was invited to one of these New-years Feasts by one of the Country, and accordingly went ashore, as many other Seamen did upon like Invitations. I know not what Entertainment they had ; but mine was like to be but mean, and therefore I presently left it. The staple Dish was Rice, which I have lid before is the common Food ; Besides which, my 'riciid, that he might the better enteruin me and his other Guests, had been in the Morning a fishing in a Pond not ■ far from his House, and had caught a huge Mess of Frogs, ■ ■nd with great Joy brought them home as soon as I came V to his House. I wondcr'd to sec him turn out so many of these Creatures into a Basket; and asking him what they were for f he told me, to eat : but how he drest them I know not ; I did not like his Dainties so well as to stay and dine with him. The other great Featt they have, is after their May- crop is hous'd, about the Beginning of June. At this Feast also chey have puhlick Kejoydng; but much tnferiour to those of their New-years Feast. Their Religion is Paganism, and they arc great Idolaters; Nevertheless they own an omnipotent, supreme over-ruling Power, that beholds both them and their 603 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. Actioiu, and lo iiir takes Notice of them, as to reward the **** Good, tad panUh the Bad in the other World. For they believe the Immortidity of the Soul : but the Notion that they have of the Deity is very obscure. Yet by the Figures which they nuke representing this God, they manifestly shew that they do believe him to excel in Sight, Strength, ■ Courags and WudtHn, Justice, &c. For though their Idols, wluch are made in humane Shapes, are very different in their Forma ; yet they all represent somewhat extra- (H^inary, either in the Countenance, or in the Make of the Body, or limbs. Some are very corpulent and fat,' others are very lean ; some aleo have many Eyes, others as many I^ds, and all grasping somewhat. Their Aspects are also different, and in some Measure representing what they are made to imitate, or there is somewhat in their Hands or Ijing by them, to illustrate the Meaning of the Figure. SeveralPasKOns are also represented in the Countenance of the Image, as Love, Hatred, Joy, Grief. I was told of one Image' that was placed sitting on his Hams, with his Elbows resting on his Knees, and his Chin resting on his two Thumbs, for the supporting his Head, which lookt drooping forwards: his Eyes were moutnfully lifted up towards Heaven, and the Figure was so lean, and the Countenance and whole Composure was so sorrowful, that it was enough to move the Beholder with Kity and Com- passion. My Friend said he was much affected with the Sight thereof. There are other Images also, that are in the Shape of Beasts, either Elephants or Horses, for I have not seen them in any other Shape. The Pagodas or Idol Temples, are not sumptuous and magnificent, as in some of the Neighbouring Kingdoms. They are generally built with Timber, and are but small and low : yet mostly covered with Pantile ; especially the City Pagodas ; but in the Country some of them are thatched. I saw the Horse ' As " the God called Miglfck" who sits " in a laiy Posture " on a " large Cushion or Boisler." This god " is very corpulent and always laughing." ' Perhaps the god described by Hamilton as ''a young God that died before he reach: Twenty." 604 THE PAGODAS OR TEMPLES *«nd Elephtni Idols only m the Country : and indeed I saw j none of the Idols in the City Cachiio, hut was told they '' were generally in humane Shapes. The Horse and Elephant Images I saw, were both Sorts about the Bigness and Height of a good Horse, each standing in the midst of a tittle Temple, just big enough to contain them, with their Heads towards the Door: and sometimes one, sometimes two together in a Temple, which was always open. There were up and down in the Country other Buildings, such as Pagodas, or Temples, Tombs, or the like, less than these ; and not above the Heighth of a Man : but these were always shut so close, that 1 could not H*ee what was within them. ^■_ I'hcrc were many Pagan Priests belonging to these ^Vhgodasi, and 'tts reported that they are by the Laws tied ^Bd strict Rules of Living, as Abstinence from Women, and ^BUong Drink especially, and enjoined a poor Sort of Life. ^nTct they don't seem to confine themselves much to these Rules: but their Subsistence being chiefly from Offerings, and there being many of them, they are usually very poor. The OfFcring to the Priest is commonly two or three HandfuU of Rice, a Box of Bctlc. or some such like Present. One Thing the People resort to them for is Fortune-telling, at which they pretend to be very expert, and will be much offended if any dispute their Skill in that, or the Truth of their Religion. Their Habitations arc very little and mean, close by the Pagodas, where they k constantly attend to offer the Petitions of the poor People, ihat frcijucntly resort thither on some such Errand. For Ulcy have no set Times of Devotion, neither do they seem to esteem one Day above another, except their Annual Feasts. The People bring to the Priest in Writing what Petition they have (o nuke : and he reads it aloud ^^beforc the Idol, and afterwards burns it in an Inccnsc- Hjpot, the Supplicant all the while lying prottrate on the f^Sround. I think the Mandarins and rich People seldom come to the Pagodas, but have a Clerk of their own, who reads the Petition in their own Courts or Yards : tnd it ahoald tewn 605 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER*3 VOYAGES AN. by this, that the Mandarins haye a better Snse of the 1688 i5eity^ than the common Pec^le ; for in these Yatds, there is no Idol, before whom to pmorm the Certmonj» but 'lis done with ejres lift up to Heayen. When they make tlus Petition they order a great deal of good Mei^ to be dreat^ and calling all their Servants into the Court, wimre the Ceremony is to be performed, they place the Food on a Table, where also two Incense-^pots are placed, and then the Mandarin presents a Pkper to the Clerk, who ttsads it with an audible Voice. In the first Place there is drawn up an ample Account of all that God has blest him withal, as Health, Riches, Honour, Favour of lus Princei &c. and long life, if he be old ; and tO¥mtis the Conclusion, there is a Petition to God for a Continuance of all these Blesnngs, and a farther Augmentation of them ; especially with Umg life and Favour of his Prince, wlueh last they esteem as the greatest of all Blessings. While this Fkper is reaitii^, the Master kneels down, and bows lus face to the Earth ; and when the Clerk has done reading it, he puts it to the burning Rushes, that are in the Inoense->pot, where 'tis oonr sum'd. Then he flings in 3 or 4 little Bundles of sacred Paper, which is very fine and gilded ; and when that also is burnt, he bids his Servants eat the Meat. This Relation I had from an English Gentleman, who understood the Language very well, and was present at such a Ceremony. This burning of Paper seems a great Custom among the Eastern Idolaters: and in my former Volume I observed the doing so by the Chinese, in a Sacrifice they had at Bencouli. The Tonquinese Language is spoken very much through the Throat, but many Words of it are pronounced through the Teeth. It has a great Affinity to the Chinese Language, especially the Fokein Dialect, as I have been informed: and though their Words are differently pronounced, yet they can understand each other^s Writings, the Characters and Words being so near the same. The Court Language especially is very near the Chinese ; for the Courtiers being all Scholars, they speak more elegantly ; and it differs very much from the vulgar corrupted Language. But for the 606 HMa THE TONQUINESIi LANGUAGI- Malayan Tongue, which Monsieur's Tavcrnicr's ' Brother ; in his History of Tonquin says is the Court Language, I ' never could hear by any Person that it is spoken there, tho' I have made prticular Inquiry about it ; neither can I be of his Opinion in thai Matter. For the Tonquinesc have no Manner of Trade with any Malayans that 1 could observe or learn, neither have any of their neighbours : and for what other grounds the Tonquincse should receive that language I know not. It is not probable that cither Conquest, Trade or Religion should bring it in ; nor do they travel towards Malacca, but towards China ; and commonly 'tis from one of these causes that Men learn the language of another Nation. The remarkable smooth- ness of that Language, I confess, might excite some People to learn it out of curiosity: but the Tonquincse are not so curious. They have Schools of Learning and Nurseries to tutor youth. The Characters they write in arc the same with the Chinese, by what I could judge; and they write with a hair Pencil, not sitting at a Table, as we do, but stand upright. They hold their Paper tn one hand, and write with the other: making their Characters very exact and fair. They write their Lines right down from the Top to the Bottom, beginning the first Line from the right Hand, and so proceeding on towards the Left. After they can write they are instructed in such Sdcnces as their Mastcn can tutor them in ; and the Mathemalicks arc much studied by them: They seem to understand a little of Geomewy and Arithmctick, and somewhat more of Astronomy. They have Almanacks among them : but I could not learn whether "icy are made in Tonquin, or brought lo them from China. Since the Jesuits came into these parts, some of them ve improved themselves in Astronomy pretty much. icy know from them the Revolution of the Planets; * Je«n tUpliile Tarcmicf's Kr^ltri/ Jti I'iuiieari RtUtiomi, ciM- bin]; ■ " RelilMifl da RoTaom* At Tanqoin," »» nublitlicil at Taris I l&Ty. Thit particular "KeUtion'' was t>y jean BapitUc't brother. An * vlutt irsruUtton appeared in 16S4- Tanrnkr's tiuolc hai been dii- dited by other vriicr*. 607 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. they also learn of* them natural Philosophy, and especially 1688 Ethicks: and when young Students are admitted to make Graduates, they pass through a very strict Examination. They compose something by way of Trial, which they must be careful to have wholly their own, for if it is found out that they have been assisted, they are punished, degraded, and never admitted to a second Examination. The Tonquinese have learnt several Mechanick Arts and Trades, so that here are many Tradesmen, viz. Smiths, Carpenters, Sawyers, Joyners, Turners, Weavers, Tailors, Potters, Painters, Money-changers, Paper-makers, Workers on Lacker- Ware, Bell-founders, &c. Their Saws are most in Frames, and drawn forwards and backwards by two Men. Money-changing is a great Profession here. It ts managed by Women, who are very dextrous and ripe in this Employment. They hold their Cabals in the Night, and know how to raise their Cash as well as the cunningest Stock-jobber in London. The Tonquinese make indifferent good Paper, of two Sorts. One Sort is made of Silk, the other of the Rinds of Trees. This being pounded well with wooden Pestles in large Troughs, makes the best writing Paper. The vendible Commodities of this Kingdom, are Gold, Musk, Silks, both wrought and raw, some Caliicoes, Drugs of many Sorts, Wood for dying, Lacker- Wares, Earthen- Wares, Salt, Anniseed, Wormseed, &c. There is much Gold in this Country : It is like the China Gold, as pure as that of Japan, and much finer. Eleven or twelve Tale' of Silver brings one of Gold. A Tale is the Name of a Summ '^ about a Noble English. Besides the raw Silk fetched from hence, here are several Sorts of wrought Silks made for Exportation, nz. Pelongs, Sues, Hawkins, Piniasco's, and Gaws. The Pelongs ana Gaws are of each Sort, either plain or flowered very neatly. They make several other Sorts of Silk, but thcMare the Principal that are bought by the English or DutdL-'*- ' Tael. ' I^^^^^M ' The lael is now to B EciKlish. OF THE LACKER WARE, AND LACK The lackcr'd Ware that is made here, is not inferior to any but that of Japan only, which is esteemed the best in ' the World ; probably because the Japan Wood is much belter than this at Tonquin, for there seems not any con- siderable Difference in the Paint or Varnish. The Lack' of Tonquin is a Sort of ^mmy Juice, which drains out of the Bodies of Limbs of Trees.' It is gotten in such Quan- tities by the Country People, thai they daily bring ii in great Tubs to the Markets at Cachao to sell, especially all the working Season. The natural Colour is white, and in Substance thick like Cream: but the Air will change its Colour, and make it look blackish : And therefore the luntry People that bring it to Town, cover it over with or 3 Sheets of Paper, or Leaves, to preserve it in its fresh native Colour. The Cabinets, Desks, or any Sort of Frames to be Lackered, are made of Fir, or Pone-tree : but the Joyncrs in this Country may not compare their Work with that which the Euroj^^ans make ; and in laying on the Lack upon good or fine jnyncd work, they frequently Hv il the joynts, edges, or comers of Drawers of Cabinets : Besides, our fashions of Utensils differ mightily from theirs, for that reason Captain Pool, in his sccotid Voyage to _ Country, brought an ingenious Joyner with him to make fashionable Commodities to be lackered here, as also Deal-boards, which are much better than the Pooe-wood of this Country. The Wnrk-houscD where the Lacker is laid on, are accounted very unwholesome, by reason <*f a poisonous r'ity, said to be in the Lack, which fumes into the Brains ugh the Nostrils of those that work at it, making them bn-tk out in Botches and Biles ; yet the scent is not strong, nor the smell unsavoury. The Labourers at this Traae irk only in the dry Season, or when the drying North blow : for as they lay several Coats of Lack, one on r, so these must all ha%'e time to be throughly dry, in outer Coat can be laid on the former. It grows of it self, when exposed to the Air; but the Co! Fbf. Kmali 609 ia/rr. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES I nii^n Colour is heightened by Oil and other ingredients mi ^ with it. When the outside Coat is dry, they polish it to bring it to a gloss. This is done chiefly by often rubbing it with the ball or Palm of their Hands. They can make the Lack of any colour, and temper it so as to make therewith good Glew, said to be the best in the World : It is also very cheap, and prohibited Exportation. They make varnish also with the Lack. Here is also Turpentine in good plenty, and very cheap. Our Captain bought a considerable quantity for the Ships use : and of this the Carpenter made good Pitch, and used it for covering the Seams, after they were caulked. The Earthen Ware of this Country is course and of a grey Colour, yet they make great quantities of small Earthen Dishes, that will hold half a Pint or more. They are broader towards the brim than at the bottom, so that they may be stowed within one another. They have been sold by Europeans, in many of the Malayan Countries, and for that reason Capt. Pool in his first Voyage bought the best part of looooo, in hopes to sell them in his return homeward at Batavia, but not finding a Market for them there, he carried them to Bencouli on the Island Sumatra, where he sold them at a great profit to Governour Bloom: And he also sold most of them at good Advantage to the Native Malayans there : yet some thousands were still at the Fort when I came thither, the Country being glutted with them. Capt. Weldon also bought 30 or 40000, and carried them to Fort St. George, but how he disposed of them I know not. The China Wares which are much finer, have of late spoiled the sale of this Commodity in most places: Yet at Rackan' in the Bay of Bengali, they are still esteemed, and sell at a good rate. The several sorts of Drugs bought and sold here, are beyond my Knowledge : but here is China root,' Galingame,* > Smiiax China L- A sort of sarsaparilla once thought " sovereign for the gOQt." ' Galingale, "mild ginger," the root of some East Indian roots of the genus Alpinia. 610 I SAPPAN WOOD, WORMSEED, MUSK Rhubarb, Ginger, ficc. Neither do I know whether any of . these grow in this Country, for they are mostly imported ' from their Neighbours; tho' as to the Ginger, I think it grows there. Here is also a sort of Fruit or Berry said to grow on small Bushes, called by the Dutch Annise,' because its scent and taste is strong like that of the Anniseed. This Commodity is only exported hence by the Dutch, who carry it to Batavia, and there distil it among their Arack, to give it an Anniseed flavour. This sort of Arack is not lit »to make Punch with, neither is it used that way, but for want of plain Arack. It is only used to take a Dram of by itself, by the Dutch chiefly, who instead of Brandy, will nratlow large doses of it, tho' it be strong : but 'tis also much used and esteemed all over the East-Indies. There is ot.c sort of Dying-wood in this Country much like the Campeachy Log-wood, tho' whether the same, or WiK)d of greater value, T know not. I have heard that 'tis called Sappan Wood ; and that it comes from Siam. It wu HTuller than what we usually cut in the Bay of Campeachy ; for the biggest stick that I saw here was no .bigger than my Leg, and most of it much smaller, and snxikcd. They have other sort of Dyes; but I can give Ho account of them. They dye several Colours here, but I 'nve been told they are not lasting. They have many s of good tall Timber-trees in this Country, fit for any a of Building : but by relation none very durable. For isting. the Fir and Ponc-trees are the best. Here is much Wormsecd, but it grows not in this Kingdom. It is brought from within the Land, from the Kingdom of Bouun, or from the Province of Yunam, bordering on this Kingdom, yet belonging to China. From thence comes the Musk and Rhubarb ; and these three Commixiities are said to be peculiar to Boutan and Yuium. The Musk grows in the Cods of Goats. The same Countries yield Gold also, and supply this Country with it : for whatever Gold Mines the Toaquinesc are said to have in their own Mountaina, yet they do not work upon them. ' AatM : /iUdam 6ii CAPTAIN DAMPIER*S VOYAGES AM. With All these rich Gunmoctitieat oot would expect the >M8 p^ie to be rich; but the Geoenlhy we veiy poor, coondoing what a Trade is driren herb Fdr aef Iwve fittle or no Trade by Sea themselves, ^mept for EstiAltt> as j^ce, and Fish, wUch is spent in the Country: bat the ' nuun Trade of the Countrf is maint«ned by the Ownpsc, Ei^lish, Dutch, and other Merchant Strangers, who either rende here ccMistantly, to make their annual Rerama hither. These export thdr Commodities, and import such as arc vendible here. The Goods imported hitht:r besides Silver, are Salt-peter, Sulphiu*, yjiglwti Broad-Ctoath, Cloath- rashes,^ some Callicoes, Pef^ier and other Spices, Lead, . great Guns, &c. but of Gws ,thc idng Saker is most esteemed. Few these Coramodilics you receive Money or Goods, acccxdiiw to contract: but the Country is so very pOM-, that, as I lormerly dnerred, the Merchant commonly stays 3 or 4 Mentha for hb Goods after he has -paid for them; because the FocM-are not employed till Ships arrive in the Country, and then they are set to work by the Mtmey that is brought thither in them. The King buys . great Guns, and some peces of Broad-Cloath : but his pay is so bad, that Merchants care not to deal with him, could they avoid it. But the trading People by all accounts art honest and just ; That I heard a Man say, who had traded there ten Year$, in which time he dealt for many Thousands of Founds, that he did not in all that time loose i o/. by them all. ' Rough woollen fabrics. ' END OF VOL. I 'i - / ( t' I * - I « 1 t ■ ■ The borrower musl return this item on or before the lasi date stamped below. If another user places a recall for (his item, (he borrower will be no(ined of the need for an eariier return. 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