!»l»»'
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
J
"7^
■I-
m
\..
THE
INDIA DIRECTORY,
^c. ^c.
THE
INDIA DIRECTORY,
DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING
TO AND FBOM THE
EAST INDIES,
CHINA, AUSTRALIA, AND THE INTERJACENT PORTS
OP
AFRICA AND SOUTH AMERICA:
COMPILED CHIEFLY FROM
ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF THE HONOURABLE COMPANY'S SHIPS,
AND FROM
OBSERVATIONS AND REMARKS,
RESULTING FROM THE EXPERIENCE OF TWENTY-ONE YEARS IN THE NAVIGATION OF THOSE SEAS.
BY
JAMES HORSBURGH, F.R.S., RA.S, R.G.S.
CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, ST. PETERSBURGH ; AND OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF
NORTHERN ANTIQUARIES, COPENHAGEN; HYDROGHAPHER TO THE HONOURABLE EAST-INDIA COMPANY.
They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters ; these see the works of the Lord,
and his wonders in the deep. — Psalm cvii. 23, 24.
VOLUME SECOND.
FIFTH EDITION.
LONDON:
Wm. II. ALLEN AND CO.,
ISookddleig to tl)e ^^onouraMe ti)( <l?adU3inl>(3 Companji,
7, LEADENHALL STREET.
1843.
&ntert\) at Sbtationt rsi* iijall.
Printed by J. L. Cox 4: Sons, 75, Great QuecD Street,
Lincoln's-Inn FiclJs.
CONTENTS.
H7U
V.I
Eastern side of the Bay of Bengal
Coast of Chittagong
Coast of Aracan
Coast of Ava and adjacent Islands
Coasts of Martaban and Tavoy
Chain of Islands fronting the West Coast of
Sumatra ...
Page
1
ih.
6
13
Coast of Pegu, with directions for Sailing to
and from Rangoon River ... ... 19
Description of the Coast ... ... ih.
Passages to and from Rangoon ... ... 22
25
Tanasserim or Mergui Archipelago, and
Seyer Islands, wth the Coast from Mergui
to Junkseylon ... ... 31
The Andaman Archipelago ... ... 46
Nicobar Islands ... ... 55
West Coast of Sumatra ... ... ... (jl
Aehen and the adjacent Islands ... ih.
Monsoons ... ... ... ... 66
From Achen Head to Bancoongong Bay 68
From Bancoongong to Padang ... ... 83
From Padang to Fort Marlborough ... 99
From Marlborough to Flat Point ... 110
Passages and Channels ... ... ... 114
Monsoons ... ... ... ... 115
. 117
Passage between India and the Strait of
Sunda, and the Straits East of Java ... 133
Page
Sunda Strait ... ... 136
South side of Sunda Strait, with Direc-
tions for Batavia ... ... ... 143
Directions for Batavia ... ... ... 151
From Batavia and Sunda Strait to the Strait
of Banca 1.57
Banca Strait ... ... ... ... 164
Passage from the Northward, througli Banca
and Sunda Straits ... 177
Gaspar Strait, and the North-east Coast of
Banca ... ... ... ... ... 181
Banca Strait to Pulo Aor, and Rhio Strait 198
From Banca Strait, through Durian Strait
and Phillips Channel 204
Islands, Coasts, and Dangers ... ... ih.
Directions ... ... ... ... 210
Malacca Strait
Winds and Currents
Passages to and t'lom Malacca Strait
Coast of IV'dir, from Tanjong Batoo to
Diamond Point
North-east Coast of Sumatra, from Dia-
mond Point to Brewers Strait and Siak
River ...
Islands and Banks
Malay Coast, from Junkst-ylon to Penang
From Penang to the Arroas, and to Par-
cellar Hiif
From the Sambilangs to Salangore, and
through the Strait of Callam ...
214
ih.
•iI7
220
222
227
229
236
247
iinr>i!r>
CONTENTS.
rage
From Parcellar Hill to Cape Rachado,
and thence to Malacca ... ... 250
From Malacca to Singapore Strait ... 257
Singapore Strait ... ... 264-
Passage Westward through Singapore and
Malacca Straits 282
China Sea 287
Monsoons, Ty-fongs, Gales and Currents ib.
Passage through the China Sea, to or from
Canton River 292
Islands in the South-western part of the China
Sea, and the East Coast of the Malay
Peninsula {302
Gulf of Siam and Coast of Cambodia, with
the adjacent Islands ... ... ... 318
The Coast of Tsiompa, with the Catwicks
and other Islands 326
Cochin-china, from Cape Padaran to Cape
Tiiron 336
Tonking Gulf and Hainan Island 346
Description of the South-east Coast of
Hainan, by Captain Ross 353
The Paracels, with the Banks and Dangers
in the Northern part of the China Sea 357
Paracels ... ... ... ... ib.
Banks and Dangers ... ... ... 360
South Coast of China, to the westward of
Canton River 363
Canton River 873
Outer Islands and Channels .., ... ib.
From Macao Road and the Typa to the
Bocca-Tigris ... ... 396
Bocca- Tigris to Canton... 403
Directions to accompany the Chart of Can-
ton River, from the anchorage below
the second Bar to Whampoa Reach ... 409
China, South-Coast, from the Lema Chan-
nel to Amoy 412
Page
East-Coast of China, from Amoy to the
Shan-tung Promontory ... 431
Gulf of Pe-tchee-lee 459
Passage between Canton River and Manila,
also between Canton River and Pulo Aor 472
Passage between Canton River and Ma-
nila ... ... ... ... ... ib.
Passage between Canton River and Pulo
Aor 473
From Pulo Aor to and from Manila, by the
outer passage, with a description of Ma-
nila Bay 478
Shoals in the South-eastern part of the China
Sea, with Palawan Island and Passage ... 482
West and North Coasts of Luzon or Luco-
nia and the contiguous Islands ... ...
Formosa and the Pehoe Islands with a brief
notice of the Lieu-chew, the Japan, and
other Islands to the north-eastward
West Coast of Borneo
491
Islands and Channels between Luzon and
Formosa, with brief directions for passing
through the Channels towards New South
Wales 498
504
Passage through Balabac Strait to the Mo-
luccas and to Sooloo; also the Surigao
and Embocadero Passages, and East Coast
of Luzon ... ... ... 512
524
Carimata Passage, and South Coast of Bor-
neo, with brief directions for sailing towards
the Straits east of Java ... ... ... 532
Eastern Passage to China through Macassar
Strait 542
Passage through the Strait ... ... ib.
Coasts, Islands and Dangers ... ... 546
Passage from the Strait of Macassar between
Mindanao and Celebes, into the Pacific
Ocean 558
CONTENTS.
Directions for sailing from Macassar Strait
to the westward of the Pliilippine Islands 566
Channels, Dangers and Headlands ... ih.
Return Passage from China, on the west side
of the Philippine Islands...
From Dampier Strait towards China, with
the Coasts, Islands, and Dangers near the
Passage
Passage from China, outside the Philippine
Islands, and through Pitt Passage into the
Ocean
Nortli Coast of Java, and the Straits to the
eastward ...
Arafura Sea ... ...
Islands ...
New Guinea, South-west Coast...
Winds and Currents
Molucca and Banda Seas ...
Winds and Weather
Islands ...
580
Eastern Routes to China, by Pitt Passage ... 585
General Remarks on the Passage ... ib.
Islands and Dangers in the Java Sea ... 586
Passage through Salayer Strait ... ... 592
Islands, Bays, &c., near the south-east
part of Celebes ... ... ... 597
Pitt Passage 602
Gillolo Passage ... ... ... ... 605
Dampier and Pitt Straits ... ... 616
628
639
645
685
ib.
689
692
692
ib.
693
Van Diemen Land ... 705
Van Diemen Land, and the contiguous
Ports, with Sailing Directions ... ... ib,
Australia East and North-east Coasts ... 720
Description of the Coast ... ... ih.
Winds and Currents ... ... ... 728
Islands and Dangers off the East and North-
east Coasts of Australia ...
Routes from Port Jackson, or Van Diemen
Land, towards India or China, by Torres
Strait
Route of the Shaw Hormazier ...
Route recommended by Captain Flinders
Route of the Claudine and other vessels .
Route of the Indefatigable
Route of the Lalla Rookh
Inner Route recommended by Captain
King
Route through Endeavour Strait
Remarks on the Passage from Port Jack-
son towards Torres Strait, by Captain
Towns
Outer Passages from Port Jackson or Van
Diemen Land, towards India and China...
Passage to the Eastward of New Guinea
and through St. George Channel, with
a brief description of the Islands and
Dangers near the route
Passage to the Eastward of the Solomon
Islands
Passage to the Eastward of New Cale-
donia ...
Homeward Passage from Australia and Van
Diemen Land, by Cape Horn and Magel-
lan Strait ...
Passage from Port Jackson through Bass
Strait, or round Van Diemen Land
Homeward Passage from India by the Cape
of Good Hope ... ... ... •••
From India round the Cape of Good
Hope to St. Helena ...
From St. Helena to Ascension and thence
towards the British Channel, with a brief
description of the Azores
From the entrance of the British Channel
to the Downs ...
Page
r29
734
ib.
ih.
737
739
741
743
ib.
745
750
ib.
755
758
764
769
ib.
777
781
EASTERN SIDE
BAY OF BENGAL.
COASTS OF CHITTAGONG, ARACAN, AND AVA.
COAST OF CHITTAGONG.
THE WHITE SANDY CLIFFS, fronting the sea on the northern part of the white ciiiTs
coast of Aracan, extend from kit. 21° 17' N. to 21° 24' N., being not al.ove 2^ or 3 .^tr'^"-"'
leagues to the northward of Elephant Point in lat. 21° 10' N. The hmd to the north-
ward of these clifls is separated from Mascall Island and the Coast of Chittagong by
the opening or strait of Cruzcool, which opening has deep water inside, but wdl only
iuhnit small vessels in the narrow channel, formed between a reef that fronts the main-
land at Coxe Bazar, and Red Crab Reef that stretches from the south end of Mascall ued Crab is-
Island, about 2 leagues to the southward and S. Westward. Red Crab Isle, lymg near "" "' ^^ •
the S. Western extremity of this reef, in lat. 21° 2(j' N., and about 2^ mdes from the
S.W. end of Mascall Island, is merely a dry sand, with some shrubs on it, having
Ijreakers extending around to a considerable distance, with 10 and 1 1 fathoms near the
west edge of the reef, and 3 or 4 fathoms near its southern extrennty. Betw^een this
reef and the mainland tiiere is a channel leading to Coxe Bazar and to the S. L. point coxc Bazar.
of Mascall Island. It has from 1^ to 3^ fathoms on the bar, and from 5 to 8 lathoms
inside. , , • n -n
.January 22nd, 1825, Captain Crawford, in the Research, worked into Coxe liazar,
with the flotilla of gun vessels in coinj)any, and the least water on the bar was
:3 fathoms* hard bottom. At noon anchored in the harbour, in 12 fathoms extremes of
Mascall Island from North to N. W. by W., centre of Red Crab Tree Island Reefs
\\ N W * W another island W. ^ N., entrance of llamoo Creek S.L., distant a
((iiarter of a mile, Sandy Entrance Point S. S. W. ^ W., and the Outer Pagoda on a
Hill S. by E. i E. ,,, ,
From lat. 20° 50' N. to the White ClifTs, the coast of Aracan, except near Elephant a™™,, ccst.
Point, which has a reef off it, is safe to approach, with tolerable anchorage. Vessels
Im.uikI to Chittagomr, or those that may bo driven to the eastward by stress of weather
ill the S.W. monsoon, usuallv endeavour to make this part of the coast; but it reciuires
ureat caution, the weather being mostly cloudy or stormy, and the W l.itr I liffs :.n- low
and not easily discerned, unless the sun is shining bright to the westward ; it tl.eie-
^ Captain Ross found only 1 i fathoms on tlu- bar at low water, dnring his survey of the coast in 1833. When
Captain Crawford crossed the bar, it was probably near high water, the rue and tall ot tide ben.g about 12 leet.
VOL. II. "
COAST OF CHITTAGONG.
Water.
Diric'trons uii
nwkiiip tlie
land.
Sand Kanks.
North Patch.
South Patch.
Tides.
Anchorage in
hazy weather.
fore a ship get close in, with a strong breeze, and a tide of 4 knots on the flood, she
will not be able to haul out sufficiently to clear the Kootubdea sands, more particularly
the outer patch, and will therefore be obliged to anchor in a heavy sea, witlj strong
tides, an alternative at all times, if possible, to be avoided.
Between the third and J'ourth Sandy Clifls, reckoning from the northward, there is
a small run of fresh water, where ships which happen to be becalmed in the fair season
might obtain a supply of that necessary article.
if a ship make the land here, she must haul immediately to the westward, to avoid
the Banks of Mascall and Kootubdea, which commence in lat. 21° 25' N. off the entrance
of Coxe Bazar : they consist of two long spits, extending North and South, separated
by a channel about 5 miles wide, with regular soundings in it from 10 to 12 fathoms.
The Inner Spit, or Middle Ground, begins about 7 miles West from the south entrance
of Red Crab Reef, and extending to the northward about the same distance from the
west side of Mascall Island to lat. 21° 42' N., then trends to N. N. E., and joins the
great Reef at the south end of the Island Kootubdea : near its northern extremity from
lat. 21° 30' to 21° 40' N. is the sand called the North Patch, which is steep with high
breakers, having 9 and 10 fathoms water close to it on the outside, and from 2 to 3J
fathoms farther to the southward. The Outer Spit, from lat. 21° 28' to 21° 33' N., is
very dangerous, having in one spot, called the South Patch, in lat. 21° 31' N., only
1 fathom water, from whence the depth increases on the north end of the Spit to 7 and
8 fathoms in lat. 21° 35' N. Close to the western edge of this spit the depth is 10
fathoms, decreasing to seaward, to 5 and fathoms about 7 leagues to the westward
of the spit. The South Patch Sand is in lat. 21° 31' N., and Ion. 91° 40' E., by tiie
late survey of Captain Ross, who gives the following remark relative to this part of the
coast. During the N. E. monsoon, the high land is not visible for several days to-
gether, and frequently the haze prevents Mascall Island from being seen from the
channel, between the Outer Patch Sand and Middle Ground. The Southern or Outer
Patch exhibits breakers in a fresh breeze, and in fine weather the rollers on it may be
perceived, but the lead afibrds no guide in approaching. Between it and the Middle
Ground, the velocity of the tide at the springs is from 3^ to 4 miles an hour, and in this
channel the ground is stiff and good for anchorage. The flood sets towards the entrance
of Coxe Bazar and the channel that separates Muttabarry Island from Kootubdea, ren-
dering it doubly necessary to keep a good offing, after seeing the White Clifls.
If hazy weather prevent the White Cliffs from being discerned until a ship approach
near them, when the wind is too far westerly for her to clear the shoals, a place of siiel-
ter for small vessels may be found within the Outer Spit, but more particularly within
the Inner one. To gain this latter place, pass Red Crab Island, bearing East 2^, or 3
miles, and from this station, steer about N. by W. in 10 to 15 fathoms until the passage
between Kootubdea and Muttabarry is quite open ; then steer direct for the opening,
about N. £. by N., in 7 to 10 fathoms water, taking care to avoid the dry shoals lining
the shore on both sides of the entrance ; having got within the point of Kootubdea,
you may anchor secure in 10 fathoms, soft ground. From the point of that island, a
spit extends S.W. by S. several miles, with breakers on it in some places; and a bank
stretches from the Mascall shore to the distance of 1:| miles, both of which will be
avoided by keeping the passage quite open as directed above. It would be improper
to run 1 mile w ithin the point of Kootubdea, for about 2 miles within the entrance, a
bank projects from that island more than half-way across the channel. Th
that separates Mascall Island from the mainland is narrow, having only 1 fathv
in some places.
COAST OF CHITTAGONG. 3
THE CHANNEL inside of Kootubdea, which separates it from Muttabarry Island
and from the main, called Uckoia by the natives, is only safe for small vessels, the uekoia chan-
soundinss in it being various, from H or 2, to 4, 5, and (i fathoms. The northern en- "^''
trance of this channel, formed between the north end of Kootubdea and Cuckold Point,
is contracted by banks on each side, which stretch to a considerable distance to sea-
ward, having H, 2, or 3 fathoms in the passage between them. These banks are visible
when the tide is low, but are overflowed in high tides, making it prudent for a vessel
going in or out by this passage to keep a boat sounding on each bow.
About 3 or 4 miles inside of Cuckold Point lies the entrance of Kentlaw River, Kemiaw River,
having 3 or 4 fathoms between the banks that project from each side ; this river aflords
good shelter in the S.W. monsoon for small vessels, but is not above a cable's length
from side to side, and half a mile inside it divides into two branches : one of these takes
an easterly direction to Julkuddar Fort, where there is fresh water ; the other, called
Khaut CoUey, stretches to the West and N. W., and communicates with the sea a
little to the northward of Cuckold Point, liy which that part of the land forms an
island. Khaut CoUey River or Creek is very shoal, and will not admit vessels of any
size, but the opposite entrance of Kentlaw, although narrow, forms a safe harbour.
MASCALL ISLAND is about ir> miles in length from North to South, and 7 Mascaii
miles in extreme breadth; it has some small elevations, and being the largest, the "'" *•
group is generally known by the name of the Mascall Islands.
MUTTABARRY ISLAND lies on the N.W. side of Mascall Island, and being
only separated from it by a narrow channel, it is in some of the older charts repre-
sented as forming part of it.
KOOTUBDEA ISLAND is low and woody, about 4 leagues in length nearly
N. by E. and S. by W., the north end being in" lat. 21° 56^' N. On the south end
there is fresh water close to a tope of trees, and several creeks are formed on the eastern
side; one of these, called Pilot Cotta Creek, divides the island into two parts, having
5 or 6 fathoms water at its eastern entrance, and 5 feet on the bar, where it joins the
sea on the west side of the island. The south part of this island has extensive sands
projecting from it, as already described.
About 3i leagues from the north end of Kootubdea, and 2^ leagues from Chittagong
River, is the entrance of Anghor CoUey or Sunkar River, which has shoals barring it,
and lining the coast from thence southward ; this having a large opening, may at first
be mistaken for Chittagong River.
A ship being abreast of Elephant Point, in lat. 21° 10' N., or the southern part of From the
the White Cliffs, in lat. 21° W N., in 18 fathoms water, and l)ound to Chittagong, ci!uuj.ol,'f '"
with the wind fair, a north course will carry her outside of the shoals, if there be no it'ver.
oblique tide in passing them, with an offing of not less than 4 to 4^ leagues from Mas-
call Islands. When the south end of Kootubdea bears E. by N., she will be past the
north end of the outermost shoal, and may liaid in more toward the shore, keeping an
offing in or 10 fathoms full 2,^ leagues froui Kuotubdea. \Mien past this island, she
may haul still nearer the shorej^ and steer along it about a league distant in (i fathoms,
until the mouth of Chittagong River is seen. The distance froui Kootubdea to the
rs mouth is about leagues, and the course N. ^ \\ . ; tlie coast l)ut\veen them is
Ca • and flat near the sea, but hilly 2 leagues inland. If the weather is clear, it will not
be easy to mistake Anghor CoUey entrance for that of Chittagong River, nor to miss
b2
4 CHITTAGONG RIVER.
the hitter, situated in hit. 22° l.'>' N. The chain of hills between Kootiil)(lea and the
river, situated about <> miles inland, ends in a point about 3 miles South of the parallel
of the river's mouth. To the N.W. 4 or 5 miles from the end of this chain of hills,
there are two small detached clusters of hills within 3 miles of the shore, the northern-
most of which lies close behind the liundei-, or anchoring- place, in the river.
The Fakier's Tree is thick and bushy, situated 3 miles to the southward of Norman
Point, and 4 miles north of Anghor Colley, and being close to the shore, may be dis-
cerned although the weather be hazy.
In clear weather, the hill called Skakbroage, with two round trees and a flagstaff on
it, may be seen when abreast of the Fakier's Tree, bearing jN. ^ E., distant 10 or II
miles; this hill terminates to the South, a chain of low hills extending parallel to the
coast, in which Seetacoon Hill, opposite to the Island Sun-Deep, is the highest and most
remarkable, having on it a small Pagoda.
The bottom between Kootubdea and Chittagong River is stiff and good for anchor-
age ; a ship bound into the river, wanting a pilot, should anchor abreast of the Fakier's
Tree in 6 fathoms, about 1^ miles from the shore, from whence a gun may be heard at
Islamabad ; but in strong gales, the sea here runs very short, and often breaks over a
small vessel.
It would be dangerous to enter the river without a pilot, but the following directions
may be useful, if obliged to run into it from necessity.
Chittagong CHITTAGONG* RIVER ENTRANCE is formed on the N.W. side by Petunga
River. Point and a contiguous sandy islet fronting the sea ; and on the east side by Norman
Point, which is low, and projects very little from the coast line. The breadth of the
entrance between these points is about 1^ miles, but the channel is scarcely a quarter of a
mile wide, and leads close to Petunga Point, being contracted on the eastern side by
sands, dry at low water, and partly so at half ebb, which extend from Norman Point
about a mile to the N.W. and Westward, and nearly 1^ miles to the S.W., where it
forms the eastern boundary of the bar. Fiom the sandy islet that fronts Petunga
Point, a sand projects about half a mile to the S. Westward, and bounds the entrance
of the channel and the bar on the west side, the latter having 2 and 2-^ fathoms on it
at low water spring tides.
When the river is well open, the best guide to enter it seems to be, to bring Petunga
Point on the N.W. side of the entrance to bear N. ^ E. or N. by E., and with this
bearing to steer for it, as the channel leads close to that side of the entrance. When
within the bar, and near Petunga Point, the channel continues in a N. by E. N. E.
direction, or a little to the left of the flagstaff on a small hill on the eastern side of the
river, and nearly in a direct line with some trees on small risings, to the northward of
the flagstaff'. Having approached the eastern shore when nearly abreast of the flagstaff',
the channel is there close along this shore for about 2 miles, or until you are close to
the mouth of the second creek on the eastern side, counting from the flagstaff mount.
F'rom the mouth of this creek, the channel takes a West and VV. by N. direction to a
point on the western shore, and it then continues close along this side of the river to
the town of Islamabad, or Chittagong, where you must anchor and moor immediately,
the channel being only about a cable's length across. From the anchorage Shakbroage
bears North. The soundings in the channel are usually from 2 or 2^ fathoms, to 3
Tides. and 3^ fathoms at low water spring tides, and in October, the rise of tide is 15 feet at
• Properly, Chateegaon.
CHITTAGONG RIVER. O
the flagstaff, and 13 feet outside, on tlie springs, and about 10 feet on the neaps.
Higii water at the flagstaff on full and change of the moon, at 1 hour 30 minutes, and
at 1 hour outside the bar, where the flood sets about N. N.W., and the ebb to the
S. S. E., with a velocity of 3 to 4 miles an hour, usually, on the springs.
Mr. P. G. Sinclair, Senior Branch Pilot at Calcutta, gives the following directions for Directions
ships bound to Chittagong. The usual track from the Eastern Channel to Chittagong Hoogiy^to'^"
is to cross the Patch Sand, and sight the White Cliffs about Coxe Bazar, keeping to the chittagong.
westward of Red Crab Island, and working up betwixt the two outer sands ; which track
seems proper in some periods of the S.W. monsoon, when cloudy weather often prevents
observations from being obtained. But in the fine weather months of either monsoon,
the shortest and best passage, and having more room for working if requisite, will be
found to the westward of tlie Patch Sand ; and the best guidance thereto is, by steering
E. by N. from the tail of Sagor Sand, until you shoal on tlie leading sand to Cliittagong
into 5 fathoms, then steer due East, and you will deepen gradually into 10 or 12 fatlioms
at the western edge of the Patch Sand : if you make the northern part of this sand, you
will slioal suddenly into 5 and 3 fathoms, therefore it is advisable for all ships bound to
Chittagong, to haul to the northward after getting one cast of 10 or 1 1 fathoms, the
worst part of the Patch Sand being its northern end, which is easily discernible in
blowing weather by the agitated water upon it. At the distance of ^ a mile to the north-
ward of it, you may cross to the eastward, carrying 7 and 8 fathoms water ; and thus
situated, any vessel may steer towards Chittagong River on a northerly course, with
safety. There is a pilot constantly in attendance, to carry ships into the river, and there
are buoys placed on the sands to point out the channel.
In the S.W. monsoon, the bar of the river looks frightful, as the sea breaks over it in
most places, and the eastern side of the entrance is bounded by sands, which dry at half
ebb, or at low water. The best time to enter the river is at high water slack ; as tlie flood
sweeps rapidly across the entrance, it is dangerous to attempt going in while it is mak-
ing. JNext to high water slack, the best time to enter it is when the ebb has begun to
make ; but then there is a risk of being driven on the flat off Norman's Point.
ISLAMABAD, the principal town on the coast of Chittagong, in lat. 22° 20' N., Islamabad.
Ion. 91° 51'*E., or 3° 30' East of Port William, by the survey of "Captain Ross, in 1833,
is about 2^ leagues from the entrance of the river ; it is a place of some trade, under
the Bengal Government, there being a marine yard, where ships of considerable bur-
tiien are constructed, and good sail-cloth manufactured. Grain is procured at a very
reasonable rate, the adjacent country abounding in rice.
D'Ai'RKs Shoal is placed by Lieutenant Criddle in Ion. 91° 13' E., al)0ut 13 leagues DApres
westward of the Chittagong coast, extending about 3^ miles North and South, or from '^''''^'
lat. 21° 52' to 21° 55|' N., and having soundings from'4 to 3^ fathoms near it ; between
it and Chittagong River, the depths are from 4k to 4 fathoms.
BOMINY HARBOUR, in lat. 22° 39' N., about 12^ leagues to the northward of BominyHar.
Chittagong River, was formerly a place of shelter for ships, when they happened to be '"'"'•
driven to the northward of the river during southerly winds ; but the vast (piantity of
soil carried down the great rivers is said to have tilled up this harbour, and the channel
leading to it, so that the depths, which were formerly 5 and G fathoms, are not more
than 2 or 3 fathoms at the present time.
* In ITG*, an observation of the transit of Venus over the sun's disc made it in 91° 43' E.
6
COAST OF ARACAN.
ElepliHnt
Point.
Sliapooree
Island, and
Naal Rivej-.
St. IMartin
Island.
St. Martin
Reef.
Asseergliurr
Shoal.
COAST OF ARACAN,
ELEPHANT POINT, or DOMBUCK POINT, in lat. 21° 10' N., Ion. 92° 4' E.,
by the late survey, is about 3 leagues S. by E. from the southern extremity of the range
of white cliffs fronting the sea on the northern part of the coast of Aracan, and may be
seen 5 leagues from the deck : a reef projects about a mile from the point, which
should not be approached under 8 fathoms at 1^^ or 2 miles' distance.
SHAPOOREE ISLAND, the centre of which is in lat. 20° 46' N., Ion. 92° 20' E.,
distant 9}j leagues to the S. S. Eastward of Elephant Point, and fronting the Naaf
River, is .3^ miles in length, surrounded by shoals, which project about 2 miles to the '
westward, nearly joining the shoals off St. Martin Island, which is about 2 leagues dis-
tant in a southerly direction. There is an intricate channel between them, about l^
and 2 miles to the southward of the former island, leading into the river, the entrance
to which is bounded on the east side by Cy|)ress Point. Tek-Naaf is a low point of
land, a little to the northward of Shapooree Island, and together with this island forms
the western boundary of the river, which extends in a N. by W. direction nearly parallel
to the coast, as far as Elephant Point. Although the Naaf River has depths of 12 to 8
and 7 fathoms, when inside the bar and outer shoals, yet, in the opinion of Captain
Crawford, who took the Research and Flotilla into this river in January, 182-5, it will
always be dangerous for shipping ; because, on the flood tide, the surf and swell runs
too high in 3 fathoms water for ships to cross the outer bar, which has 3^ fathoms hard
bottom on it at high water, and this is the safest time to pass between the outer shoals
into the river. It is high water on full and change of the moon at 9h. Om.
ST. MARTIN ISLAND, formed of two divisions united by a dry ledge of rocks,
extends from lat. 20°34i', to 20°38f' N., and its north end is distant 5 miles due South
from Shapooree, and 4 or 5 miles from the nearest shore ; it is low, lined by a reef on
the west side, which projects also a little way from the south point, and nearly 3 miles
from the north extremity of the island in a North and N. by AV. direction, towards the
shoals which front the mouth of tlie River Naaf, and the Island Shapooree. There are
extensive reefs with breakers about midway between the main and St. Martin Island,
but near the east side of the island there is anchorage in 5 and 6 fathoms, wheret he
transports anchored in 1825, and procured fresh water from the springs.
ST. MARTIN REEF,* in lat. 20° 37|' N., is very dangerous, distant about 5^ miles
directly West from the north part of St. Martin Island, having high breakers on it at
times, and it is of considerable extent in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction. Very near
it on the outside there are 9 and 10 fathoms water, with 7 or 8 to 9 fathoms hard ground,
in a safe channel between it and the island. Ships passing this reef in the night
should not come under 20 fathoms : and it may be observed, that from tliis part of the
coast, soundings extend directly across the bay, to Point Palmiras.
ASSEERGHURR SHOAL, in lat. 20° 28' N., about 11 miles to the S. E. of the
South Point of St. Martin Island, and 5^ or 6 miles oft' shore, is also dangerous. There
is a channel with 6^ and 7 fathoms water betwixt it and the main, and 8 fathoms close
* This name is applied in Capt. Ross's chart to the reef adjoining St. Martin Island, and not to the danger here
described.
ARACAN RIVER. 7
to it on the outside. Tiie coast between the Naaf and Aracan Rivers is lined by a
shoal bank, having 3 or 4 fathoms on the edge of it in some places, at 2 or .3 miles' dis-
tance offshore.
OYSTER ISLAND, in lat. 20° 12' N., Ion. 92° 33' E., and 11 miles off shore, is Oyster uia,,.!
very little above water, and is small, rocky, and dangerous, having a narrow bank or """^ ^^'''^
ridge, with shoal water on it, extending several miles from the Dry Rock in a south-
easterly direction, and nearly joining another spit of 1^ fathoms, called tlie Oyster Reef,
in lat. 20° •O' J\. : there is a gap or passage of (J and 7 fathoms between these spits, and
from 11 to 10 fathoms water close to them on the outside. INIiou or Mijou River en- Miou River,
trance, in lat. 20° 1-5' N., distant 13 miles E. N. Eastward of the Oyster Island, has a
shoal bank on each side, with H or 2 fathoms on the bar betwixt these reefs, l)y wliich
it is formed. This river is of considerable size, extending inland to the northward,
and it lias been sometimes mistaken for Aracan River. There is a passage of 4j, 5, and
(i fathoms, betwixt the Oyster Island Reefs and the bank that fronts the mouth of Miou
River, and which extends along the coast to the bar of Aracan River. This bank has
breakers on it in some parts, and should not be approached even in the N. E. monsoon,
under (J^ or 7 fathoms.
ARACAN RIVER, Mosque Point, or Bhudder Mokham, in lat. 20° 7' N., Ion. Aracan River.
92° 5-5' E., forming the northern boundary of the entrance of this river, is low, and has
some rocks near it called thePakiers, covered at high water. The channel into Aracan
River is betwixt the Fakicrs and the small islets, called the Savages, situated near the
N.W. point of Borongo, \vhich is the westernmost of the Broken Islands. There are
3^ and 4 fathoms on the bar about 3 miles to the S.AV. of Mosque Point, and 2 miles
off the shore of Borongo ; and the depths are from 8 to 10 fathoms along the western
coast of this island, at 2^ and 3 miles' distance. When approaching the river from the
westward, so long as you keep the Small Table Land on Borongo bearing East, or to the
northwarfl of that point, you will not get into shoal water on the bar. The best crossing
place is w itii the Great Savage bearing from N. by E. to N. E. by N., where the deptlis
at low water spring tides will be 18 feet. The best track in, after passing the bar,
is to bring the S.E. point of Flat Island in a line N. E. by N. with a white Pagoda,
situated on a Iiill about a mile inland of the eastern shore, taking care, when abreast of
Passage Rock, to shut in the Pagoda, in order to be certain of clearing tiie Three
Fathom Patch, lying a sixth of a mile N.W. of the rock, which has irregular depths
from 14 to 19 fathoms water near its northern side, and 8 and 9 fathoms near to the
Fakiers on the N.W. side of the channel. When inside of Passage Rock, the fair
track np Aracan River is first N. E. | N. about 6 miles, till near the S. E. point of
Flat Island, keeping along the edge of the Great Bank that extends S.W. from the
Island, which is the best side of the channel. When near the S. E. point, and the
eastern passage is open, keep mid-channel on a North, and then a N. by E. course, as
far as Rocky Point, whicli is al)Out 3 miles beyond tlie N. J'^. end of Flat Island ; it
will then be necessary to keep the western shore on board, in order to avoid the Wliite
Rock which lies nearly in mid-channel al)out a mile beyond the jioint. Tiie course is
tiien N. N. E. to the Oriatung Pagoda, about 2 miles beyond w hicli the river divides
itself into two branches. The soundings in this track are rather irregular, usually from
4 to 8 or 9 fatiioms.
A ship proceeding for this river in the S.W. monsoon should endeavour to make the
8
COAST OF ARACAN. — BROKE^f ISLANDS.
Titles.
Broken
Isliiiuts.
Terribles.
soiitli end of Borongo Island, which will carry her clear of Oyster Reef, then keep
about 4 or .5 miles ofl'tlie shore of Borongo in running to tiie northward, until Passage
llock in the river's mouth is seen, and steer for it. Captain Warden, who furnished
these remarks, says there is only '2f * fathoms on the bar at low water spring tides, the
rise and fall being then from 10 to 12 feet; therefore, any ship drawing above 15 feet
water ought not to venture over it, except with a flowing tide.
A ship intending to enter the river in the X. E. monsoon should pass to the north-
ward of the Oyster Island, taking care to preserve a proper distance from the sand that
stretches from Mosque Point along the coast, upon which the sea usually breaks. But
shij)s intending to anchor at the village of Akyab, after being a mile inside of Passage
Rock, should steer to the northward, when Mosque Point bears N.W., then haul in
near the coast at the White Tomb, for the anchorage of Akyab, in 4 or 3^ fathoms at
low water, and about If miles N. ^ E. from Mosque Point. The anchorage inside the
point is off the village Akyab, the riagstaff of which is in lat. 20° 8^' N.
It is high water at the anchorage oft' Akyab at 9 hours 45 minutes on full and change
of moon, and the greatest rise in February was 9 feet. Velocity of tide in the river from
3 to 3^ miles per hour on the springs, and from 1|^ to 2 miles on the neaps.
THE BROKEN ISLANDS, called in Captain Ross's survey. Western, Middle, and
Eastern Borongo, are three long and narrow islands immediately to the southward of
Aracan Rrver, extending about 5 leagues N. N.W. and S.S.E., parallel and near to
each other ; Borongo or Bolongo, the westernmost, has a reef projecting from its south
point, and there is a reef and several small islands oft' the south point of the centre
island.
Between these two there is good anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms mud, or in 5 fathoms
farther u]> the strait, where ships might be sheltered from all winds but those that blow
from the South. This has been named Research Strait, and has only 2 and H fathoms
at its northern part, consequently will not admit of ships passing through into Aracan
River. t These islands are mountainous, woody and rugged, without any appearance
of inhabitants or cultivation ; and the whole of the coast of Aracan, both to the north-
ward and southward of them, has a similar appearance, presenting a most dreary aspect
when viewed from sea.
The south ends of the Broken Islands, although bounded by rugged black rocks, are
not very dangerous, as most of these are visible and do not extend far out.
About 4 leagues to the westward of the Western Borongo, and parallel to it, there is
a long sand-bank, with 9 fathoms water on it in some parts, and 16 or 17 fathoms be-
tween it and the island ; and 3 leagues due South from its south point, there is a patch of
7^ fathoms in lat. 19° 40' N., with 22 and 20 fathoms between it and the South Rocks,
which are distant 10 miles E. by N. from it, and (J miles S. S. E. from the soutli point
of the Middle Bolongo Island, united to that island by a ridge of rocks and islets.
THE TERRIBLES, in lat. 19° 22' to 19°27' N., distant from the shore 10 miles, form
three visible groups of rocks extending in a N. N. E. and S. S.W. direction, some of
* The late correct survey of Captain Ross places 3 fathoms on the bar at low water at the deepest crossing
track, which is on the eastern side towards Borongo.
f In the Admiralty chart, from the survey of Captain Laws, R. N., there appears to be a channel between the
Middle and Eastern Borongo, but having less water than the former. In this chart the western island alone
bears the name of Borongo, the centre one being called Bentinck, and the eastern one Lushington Island.
COAST OF ARACAN — KYOUK PIIVOO HARBOUR. 9
them about 14 feet above water, with others under water not yet explored. The
northernmost rock is the largest, from which a spit is said to project to the N.W. some
distance, with 20 fathoms close to it on both sides. The middle group is about a mile
S. S.W. from the northernmost rock. The southernmost group, consisting of several
low rocks, is 4^ miles 8. S.W. | W. from the northernmost, and breakers have
been seen one mile to the South of it. Breakers have been also seen 2 miles West,
and half a mile North from the northernmost rock, which shews tliere are
sunken dangers around, and that ships should not come within 2^ miles of the dry
rocks.
The northernmost rock is in lat. 19^ 27' N., Ion. .0.3° 20' E., bearing S. E. ^S. from
the south point of tlie western Bolongo, distant 28 miles, and W. by S. distant 11 miles
from the Pagoda Rock, in Kyouk Phyoo Harbour.
Wlien coming- from the westward, the high peak in Combermere Bay is discernible
at 8 or 9 leagues" distance in favourable weather, and it is in a transit line with the
northernmost rock of the Terribles, bearing true N. 49° E., or N. E. ^ E. magnetic
bearing.
Erom the J\.W. point of Cheduba, the south group is about 11 leagues' distance,
bearing I\. N. W. ; near to it on the west side there are 20 fathoms water, and the
depths increase regularly to 100 fathoms no ground, about 6^ leagues to the westward.
Ships passing along this coast ought not to approach the Terribles in the night, under Directions.
28 or 30 fathoms; and in crossing the entrance of Aracan River, they should not
borrow toward Oyster Island, or the outermost Broken Island, to less than 20 or 22
fathoms.
There is an inside passage, with 10 to 15 fathoms water, between the Terribles and
the shoals fronting Saddle Island and Cap Islet, which are situated near the shore, off
the JN.W. point of Ramree, and wliich form the south side of the entrance to Kyouk
Phyoo Harbour; but this passage requires caution, as the Irrawaddy Shoal lies 4 miles
"West from Saddle Island, and 4^ miles E. by S. from the northernmost rock of the
Terribles, being nearly in tiie middle of the fairway, with only 2 fathoms water on it,
and shews breakers when there is much swell. The passage between this danger and
the Terribles is, however, ^^ miles wide, with from 12 to 15 fiithoms water, and may
be occasionally used in favourable weather, by keeping in mid-channel ; but between
the Irrawaddy Shoal and the reef surrounding Saddle Island a ship ought not to at-
tempt a passage, that part not having been sufficiently explored.
KYOUK PII YOO HARBOUR (Fort Dalhousie), in lat. 19° 26' N., Ion. 93° 34' E., Kyouk phyoo
or 5° 13' E. of Calcutta, lies directly to the eastward of the Terribles, inside the north ""'«'"•
point of Ramree Island. This point, called Flagstaff or Sandy Point, is about (J miles
east of the north end of Saddle Island, wiiich lies on the south side the entrance of the
channel, iiaving reefs projecting 1^ miles from its north point. Tlie channel is bounded
on the north side by reefs, some of whicli are detached, and others extend from the
islands on that side, which recpiire great caution in passing. Captain Bowman
constructed a plan of the channel and harbour, accompanied with the following di-
rections.*
In steering for the north end of Saddle Island, which is in lat. 19° 20' N., it should
not be approached under 2 or 2^ miles, and when it bears South, Pagoda Rock should
* The harbour .niul d.iiifjers proximate to Kyouk Pliyoo have now been surveyed by Captain Ross, the
Company's Marine Surveyor, wliich are engraved and sold by Messrs. Allen and Co., Ko. 7, Leadcnhall Street;
and will be found valuable for ships visiting the coast of Aracan
VOL. II. C
10
COAST OF ARACAN — CHEDUBA ISLAND.
Fletclier Hayes
Straits.
bebrou"-littobear E. by N. ^^ N; this rock is conspicuous, being \vliite-\vaslio<l,andlies4^
miles to the IN. K. of Saddle Island ; the fair channel course is then E. I)y S. ^ S. ; and
insailint;- to, or from the harbour, Sandy Point should not l)e brought more to the east-
ward than E. S. E., to avoid a reef projecting nearly a mile from Hamree, nor more to
the southward than S. E. by E., to avoid a shoal, distant three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of tiie point of the above reef, as the breadth of the channel between these
dangers is little more than half a mile : they lie two miles to the westward of Sandy
Point, and half a mile oHthis point lies the Reliance Kock, with a buoy on it, between
which and Quoin Island, the channel is a mile wide, the soutii point of the island hav-
ing a reef close to it, which bounds the cliannel (m the north side of tiie harl)our to the
eastward of the shoals described. Buoys are now placed on all these detached shoals,
which bound the entrance of this fine harbour. The soundings to the northward of
Saddle Island reefs are from 15 to 7 fathoms, deepening to 20 fathoms farther to the
eastward, and in the narrow part, between the dangers mentioned above, tiiey are irre-
gular from 9 to 26 fathoms, continuing the same until near Sandy Point, where the
depths decrease to 7 or B fathoms, at the anchorage off the village of Kyouk Phyoo.
About 2^ or 3 miles to the E. S. E. of Kyouk Piiyoo, Fletcher Hayes Straits begin to
stretch to the S. Eastward, separating Ramree from other islands, and from the continent.
These straits, in some parts, brancii out into an extensive inland navigation, cou)|)letely
land-locked, with good depths of water, and interspersed with many l)eauliful islands.
About 5^ or 6 miles south, a little easterly from Saddle Island, an(l H uiiles from the
Ramree shore, there is a rock, called Research Rock ; and there are also several other
straggling rocks contiguous to the western coast of that island, but not so far out as the
former ; a little to the southward of the Research Rock, the soundings along the west
coast of Ramree are tolerably regular, and ships may approach to 9 or 10 fathoms,
about 4 or 5 miles offshore.
Chcdiiba
Island.
Nortliern pas-
snpe into Clic-
diiba lioud.
CHEDUBA is a moderately high island, extending from lat. 18° 40' to 18° 56' N.,
its extreme width being about 15 miles. It is bounded by reefs and islets, whicli pro-
ject several miles to seaward, and which ought therefore to be approached with great
caution in the night. The outermost rocks, projecting about 4^ miles from the N.W.
end of the island, are in lat. 18° 57' N., Ion. 93°26'E., and are part of a reef composed
of rocks and sand banks, above and under water; but about 3 miles East of these, there
is an islet, called Tree Rock, having on it a single tall tree, that may be seen a consi-
derable distance.
Ships coming in from the westward on the north side of Ciieduba ought not to
approach the reef under 11 or 12 fathoms water, for near it the bottom is mostly rocky,
and the soundings not very regular. Being within the reef, the water shoals gradually
to 7, 6, and 5^ fathoms, and the course should not be more to the southward than E.
by S. until well over to the Ramree shore, where the soundings are more regular than
on the Cheduba side, which is very flat and shoal to a considerable distance. By steer-
ing along the eastern or Ramree side at 2 to 1^ miles' distance, there will seldom be
less than 5 fathoms, and when to the southward of Rockif Point Bay, having brought
a remarkable hummock or conical mount to bear E. by N., or more northerly, the
water will deepen to 6 or 7 fathoms. Between the Ramree shore and Cheduba, about 5
miles to the north of the anchorage, and about \\ miles from a point of Ramree, there is
a dangerous patch of rocks, with only 10 or 11 feet water upon them ; and H miles to
the westward of this patch lies another of "1^ fathoms, with 6 fathoms close to them.
These dangers require great care, as they lie in the fair channel, bearing about E. ^^N.
COAST OF ARACAN — RAMREE ISLAND. 1 1
from the north point of Cheduba, and north a little westerly from its N. E. point, and
opposite to a point on the Haniree shore, on which stands a bungalow. A ship in
passing these dangers should keep within ]}j miles of the Raniree shore on the edge of
the Mud Bank, and when the north point of Cheduba bears W. by S., a moderate high
and round island will be seen bearing about S. by E. J E., and by steering for it, when
past the dangerous rocky patch mentioned above, she will shoal gradually over to the
west, towards the town of Cheduba, where she may anchor in 4 or 4^ fathoms, with Anchorage.
Round Island bearing S. by E., and the town Pagoda W. f S. This pagoda has on its Position of the
top a brazen image of a large bird, resembling a goose, and is situated in lat. 18° 51' N., "'^" **
Ion. 93° 44' E. Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, made the anchorage
1° 59' East from Chittagong by good chronometers, which, by his late survey, places
the Pagoda in Ion. 93° 45' E. In the road, the tide rises from to 10 feet ; higii water Tides.
about 11^ hours at full and change of moon.
Ships may fill water at half ebb in their own boats, but it will be procured more ex- Supplies.
peditiouisly by the country boats. The landing-place is near a small wooden bridge, at
a wharf about 2 miles up the river on the starboard side, where is a bazar well supplied
with poultry, hogs, goats, fruits, and vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, and
of excellent quality. From the entrance of the river, mud tints stretch li miles out,
making the approach difficult to a stranger ; but inside, although narrow and winding,
there is water sufficient for large boats at all times of tide.
RAMREE, or YAMBIE MEW ISLAND, forming the N. E. side of Cheduba Ramree island
Strait, is of moderate height near the sea, and extends to the N. Westward to Saddle ^"^ ""''°"
IslancI, in lat. 19° 2(3' JN., on the north side of which is the entrance to Kyouk Phyoo
Harbour already described. The arm of the sea, which stretches inland to the east-
ward, and uniting with the other branch that proceeds from Ramree Harbour, has been
named Fletcher Hayes Straits, separating Ramree from the other land, and giving it
the character of an island. The soutii point of Ramree, oft' which are several islands,
lies directly East from Cheduba anchorage; betwixt this point and the nearest island
there is a passage, with from 3 to 7 and 10 fathoms, leading into the large space called
Ramree Harbour ; another passage leading into it, from the southward, is along the
eastern side of the ciiain of islands that projects from the south point of Ramree in a S.
by E. direction, 'i'lie largest, and nearest to the point, is named Amherst Island, or
Juggoo; the next, Adam Island; the third, Stilllsland ; and the two southernmost, Wynd-
ham and Harrison Islands, wiiich are small. These islands are lined by rocks and
shoal water, and an extensive shoal projects from the eastern shore also nearly over to
the islands, greatly contracting the channel, and rendering it unsafe to the east of Am-
herst Island ; the depths in it are generally irregular, from 7 to 4 or 3^ fathoms : but
the best passage is between the nortli end of Amherst Island and Ranuee Point, and
when inside of this point the depths increase ; but there are several shoals, with good
passages between them, in this inlet, which is 3^ and 4 miles in breadth, extending about
5 leagues in a northerly direction, where it branches into several rivers, one leading to
Aracan, and that on the western side forms Hastings or Amherst Harbour, which has
depths of 3^} to 4 fathoms water, and is safe.
Althougira brisk southerly wind, with a northerly current, is sometimes experienced vyindsintiu-
on the coasts of Aracan and Ava in the IN.E. monsoon, the prevailing winds are from ne. monsoon.
W. N.W. and N.W. in the day, and from northward in the night, seldom veering to
N. E. It may therefore be preferable for a shij) leaving Ciieduha Road or Ramree
Harbour to proceed to sea by the southern channel when the northerly winds prevail,
c 2
12 PASSAGES FROiM CilEDUBA ROAD.
and not lose time beating to the northward round the reef ofl' the north end of Cheduba.
South Chajinei. The southem channel is formed by the Cheduba Flat, Round Island, and Flat Island,
to the westward, and the Raniree Chain to the eastward, and is continued in a S.W.
Tree Island, direction to the South of Tree Island, which is situated in hit. 18" ■2(/ IV., Ion. 93° oti' E.,
about (J leagues S. E. by S. from the south end of Cheduba, being the southernmost
island among the detached groups of reefs and banks that stretch from the latter, in a
S. E. direction. Tree Island* is of a circular form, about 1 mile in diameter, with a
small hill near the middle of it covered with trees; one of these is conspicuous, being
higher tiian the others : it is dangerous to approach, being surrounded by straggling
rocks, which extend in a S. E., northerly, ami N.W. direction, to the distance of four
miles.
From Cheduba Between Tree Island and those off the S. E, end of Cheduba, no safe passage to sea-
soutiiward" ^v«i"<I "as kuown till H. M. sloop Trincomalee, with the Sybille frigate in com|)any, left
Cheduba Road, December loth, UiUl, and proceeded l)etween Round Island and the
islands to the eastward, leaving Flat Island and tiie contiguous rocks near Cheduba to
the northward, and False Island and Tree Island, with the rocks and breakers near
them, to the southward. After weighing from Cheduba Road, these siiips steered to
give a good berth to the shoal which extends from Round Island to the northward, and
had regular soundings mostly from o to 0^ fathoms in passing between the Ramree
Chain and Round Island, until opposite to Flat I.sland;!' the bottom then became
uneven, composed of coarse sand and coral ; thei'e was, however, never less than 5
fathoms in passing between it and the straggling dry rocks that stretch from False
Island to the southward, which may be approached pretty close in coming out by this
channel.
The passage last described is tlie shortest route to seaward from Cheduba Road by
the south channel ; but ships intending to anchor in Sandoway Road should steer from
Cheduba anchorage about S. S. E. ^ E,, keeping nearer than mid-channel, towards
the Cheduba side, to avoid the extensive shoal bank that stretches from Ramree Point
to the westward rather more than mid-channel towards the Ciieduba, and on which the
depths are from 3 to 2^ fathoms, even ground : when Round Island is brought to bear
S. S.W. or S.W. by S., about 3 or 3j miles' distance, you are clear of the bank, and
should then steer about S. E. for Sandoway Road in the wide channel, bounded on the
west side by False Island and Tree Island Reefs, and on the east by tiie Osprey,
Gunga Saugor, and other rocks. There are several peaked hills 2h or 3 leagues inland
to the northward of Sandoway River; but Sandoway Peak is close to the sea, about 2^
miles S. E. from the i.sle and reef that bar the river's mouth, which peak bears E. S. E.
from Round Island, and is an excellent mark when visible, as the transit bearing of
• these objects leads clear through the channel, but near to the south end of Gunga
Saugor Rocks, which lie 4 miles west of the anchorage : it is therefore right, after being
2^ or 3 leagues to the E. S. E. of Round Island, to keep a little outside of the direct or
transit line of Round Island and Sandoway Peak, until past Gunga Saugor Rocks, then
haul in East or E. by N. for the anchorage to the N.W. of the isle and reef that front
the mouth of Sandoway River. In coming from Cheduba Road by this channel, if a
shij) do not intend to touch at Sandoway, when the peak of this name is brought to bear
N. E. by E. she will be clear of the Nerbuddah Rocks, which lie 4| miles E. S. E. from
* This Island is said to be named Negamale by tlie Burmese, and has a pool or two of fresh water.
t Reguain is the native name of this Island ; it is -t miles in length North and South, has a central hill, and lies
from 4 to 6 miles oft" the S. E. part of Cheduba, and S. by W. from Round Island.
COAST OF AVA.
13
Tree Island, and may then steer out S.W. to seaward, in the channel between Foul
Island and these dangers.
To the S. E. of Tree Island, at the distance of G leagues, there is a rocky bank of corai Bank.
coral, with only 4^ fathoms water on it in some parts, from which Foul Island, here-
after described, bears South about 2 leagues. On either side this bank, between it and
the island last mentioned, or between it and Tree Island, there are safe channels lead-
ing from the south entrance of Cheduba Strait to seaward. In the north channel,
least water 12 fathoms, with Tree Island bearing N. N. W. f W., distant 7 or 8 miles.
The channel to the south of the coral bank is not so safe, being contracted by a shoal
on which the sea breaks, called Brougham Shoal, bearing N. N. E. from Foul Island,
distant 4 miles.
SANDOWAY ROAD, in lat. 18° 35' N., Ion. 94° 13' E., formed inside the reefs at sandoway.
the mouth of the river of this name, has anchorage from 6 to 5 fathoms ; and Sando-
way Town, which lies about 8 miles up the river in a S. E. direction, is a place of
some consequence. The channels between the reefs leading to the road require care
from strangers ; there is one from the southward and another from the northward, ex-
clusive of that between Tree Island and Foul Island, mentioned above. About 2
leagues North from Sandoway Road, there is a town and pagoda near the shore, op-
posite to which lie the Osprey and Gunga Saugor Reefs, .0 miles off shore, having
soundings of 4 to 7 fathoms between them, and near the coast from thence to San-
doway Road.
COAST OF AVA AND ADJACENT ISLANDS.
On the mainland to the S. Eastward of Ramree a triple ridge of regular sloping coast of Ava.
mountains divides tlie coasts of Aracan and Ava; the latter coast extends in a
southerly direction from thence to Cape Negrais, forming several bays, not afford-
ing safe shelter for large ships, and having some groups of islets and dangers in its
vicinity.
FOUL ISLAND, already mentioned, in lat. 18° 4' N., bears from Tree Island Foui uianu.
nearly S. S. E. | E., distant 8 leagues, and from the continent abreast about (J leagues,
bearing W. by N. from a point called Bluff Cape. Foul Island may be seen 8 leagues
distant, and is 2 miles long, of conical form, witli a gradual declivity from the centre
towards the sea, the north end terminatiug in a low point, with a remarkable tree on
it, and tlie whole of the island is covered with trees. A reef of rocks extends about .3
miles South from the island, and to the N. Eastward of it there are islets and rocks
near the shore, with a reef partly above water, stretching southward froui the outer or
southernmost of these islets above 1 or H miles. Abreast this reef, the de[)th at 2 or
3 miles' distance is 20 fathoms; when to the northward of it, the shore may be ap-
proached to lO fathoms in coming from the South along the coast towards Clieduba
Strait. The soundings between Foul Island and the main are generally fioni 20 to
30 fathoms ; within 3 miles of Bluff Cape there are 21 fathoms, the bottom mostly
mud, although in some parts it is hard sand, about 3 leagues off siiore. About 3 and
4 leagues South from Foul Island the depths are from 38 to Ui fathoms, and to the
westward of it, at a few miles' distance, they soon increase to 55 and 00 fathoms, and
a little farther out there is no ground. Ships passing outside this island in the night
should not come under .30 or 40 fathoms, nor under tlie same depths in passing out-
side Cheduba and the bank and islands projecting from it to the southward ; for
14
COAST OF AVA.
about 4 or 5 leagues westward of that island the bank has a sudden declivity from 60
or 70 fathoms to no ground.
Vestal shoui. VESTAL SHOAL,* in lat. 18° 1' N. by Captain Ross's survey, is small, with
heavy rollers over it at times, and it bears about U . by N., distant 4 leagues from Bluff
Cape, and 7 miles E. S. E. from the centre of Foul Island, having 30 to 33 fathoms
near it on the outside, and the same depth of water between it and William Shoal.
WILLIAM SHOAL has 3 fathoms water on it, with occasional rollers, and bears
West 0^ miles from Bluff Cape, and about the same distance E. S.E. from Vestal
Shoal.
Close to William Shoal the depths are 24 and 23 fathoms, decreasing inside to 15
fathoms within a mile of Bluff Cape, which cape has a reef around it to one-third of a
mile distance, and a bay on its north side, at the bottom of which there appears the
entrance of a river. A ship passing inside of William Shoal ought not to deepen
above 20 fathoms towards it, nor approach Bluff Cape under 16 fathoms.
Satellite Rock.
Gwa Island.
St. John, or
Church Rocks.
SATELLITE ROCK, in lat. 18° 4' N., bears N. i W. from W^illiam Shoal 6
miles, the same distance from the nearest shore, and 11 miles E. ^ N. from Foul
Island. It wouhl be imprudent to go inside this danger, but there are safe passages
between it and the shoals last mentioned.
In lat. 17° 48' N. there is a mountain, and 3^ miles to the South of it a Quoin Hill,
both near the coast, which in this part has several reefs and isles projecting 1 and 2
miles from it, and the outer extremity of the reef that surrounds Rocky Islet in lat.
17° 43' N. is nearly 3 miles distant from the nearest shore, and there is a 6 fathoms
rocky patch 1 mile W. ^ S. from the outer verge of the reef. Tiie depths near this
patch on the outside are 23 and 24 fathoms, and inside, close to the reefs and isles,
from 10 to 5 fathoms.
GWA or GOA ISLAND, in lat. 17° 33' N., Ion. 94° 34' E., lies li miles from the
shore, and is of middling height, having a coral bank extending about 3 miles to the
westward of it, with irregular soundings from 18 to 8 fathoms, 22 on the outer edge,
and 30 to 33 fathoms at a small distance from the verge of the bank. To the N. E.
of fiwa Island there is a harbour for small vessels, at the south part of which is the
entrance of the small river, and Gwa Town, built with bamboes and mats, with a cul-
tivated country around.
Between Gwa Island and Broken Point, opposite to the Calventuras, there are
several indentations in the coast fronted by reefs.
ST. JOHN, or CHURCH ROCKS, in lat. 17° 28' N., Ion. 94° 2.3' E.. by Captain
Crawford's survey, bear from Gwa Island S. W. by W., distant 12^ miles, and from
the shore 4 leagues ; they are four in niunber, one of them large and about 10 feet
high, the other three small and lie near each other; when they bear about S.W^ the
large one resembles a country church with a square tower on its west end, from which
they have been named. Very near these rocks there are 20 fathoms water, and a
little distance inside, the depths are 35 and 30 (athoms soft ground, decreasing pretty
regularly towards the shore; but the latter should not be approached under 22
* The names of Vestal and William Shoals are reversed, both in Lieutenant Crawford's and in the Admi-
ralty charts.
COAST OF AVA. 15
fathoms, if working between it and Church Rocks in the night, nor should the depth
be increased above 34 fathoms towards these rocks. The coast between Foul Island coast betwixt
and Cliurch Rocks may, in some places, be borrowed on to lo or l(j fathoms in woik- JsfJJJd"'"' ^°"'
ing, which will be about 2 miles off shore ; the depths from 2 to 4 leagues ofi' are 2(i
to 40 fathoms, increasing fast to the westward of Church Rocks to no ground ; there-
fore, a ship passing outside of them in the night should keep in deep water, not under
5t) or 60 fathoms.
There is a hill called Round Hill in lat. 17° 14|'N., and another called Peak Hill
in lat. 17° 10' N., from the latter of which the land projects 1^- miles in a point to the
northward, and sandy isles, surrounded by a reef of rocks, stretcii 1^ miles to the
westward of tiiat point, having shoal soundings of 5 and fathoms rocky ground, ex-
tending 1^ miles farther.
CALVENTURA ROCKS bear from Church Rocks S. i W., distant about 11 or caiventun,
12 leagues ; they form two divisions, bearing from each other N.W. and S. E., distant ^''^'''^s-
5 or 6 miles, the body of them being in lat. 10° 5.'>' N. The N.W. group consist of
seven black rocks, in lat. 10° 55' N., Ion. 94° 15^' E., of different magnitudes and
forms; one of them resembles an old church with a mutilated spire, another is much
larger at the top than it is near the small base on which it stands. Tiie S. Eastern-
most division consists of two high rocky islands, covered with trees and bushes, con-
nected by a reef of rocks, with 5 to 7 fathoms water upon it, having also a single rock
dry at low water, about half-way between the islands. Between the Calventura Rocks
and Broken Point on the main there is a safe channel, about 4| miles wide, with 20
and 22 fathoms soft ground in mid-channel, and 15 or 10 fathoms hard sand towards
the rocks or the shore ; about a quarter of a mile inside the easternmost rock there
are and 8 fathoms water. These two rocky isles bear nearly INorlh and South from
each other, distance 2^ miles.
From Broken Point, abreast the Calventuras, a reef extends to the N.W. about a Coast near
mile, with a rock on its outer edge dry at low water; and to N. E. of the point tiie ^''"'"^" ^'^""
coast forms a bigiit, with a small river, fronted by a high island, and contiguous reefs.
About 4 miles to the northward of Broken Point, and 1^ miles off shore, there is a
Sandy Lslaud with trees on it, and 1^ miles to the N.W. of the latter, a remarkable
Brown rock, which is surrounded by a reef. In passing along the coast from the Directions.
Church Rocks to the southward, a ship may keep between 35 and 23 fathoms, and
in the latter depth she will be about 4 miles off siiore; passing betwixt the Calven-
turas and the main, she should not, in turning, borrow nearer to Sandy Island and
Broken Point than 13 fatht)uis, which is usually about 2 or 2| miles from the shore,
and the Brown Rock Reef should not be approached under 10 fathoms; neither
should the coast be borrowed on under this depth to the East and S. Ivistward of the
South Calventuras, as some islets and reefs lie 1^ miles off shore, where the water
siioals on the verge of some of them, from 15 soft to 8 fatlioms hard at a cast.
Ships wiiich pass outside the Calventura Rocks ought to ket>|) on the edge of
soundings, and with great caution not to come under 50 or <i() fathoms in the night,
whicii will l)e but a suiall distance from tiie outermost rocks, there being 44 and 40
fathoms when they bear East ai)out l^ miles.
The coast from Broken Point, o|)posite the Calventura Rocks, to Round Cape, in coast and d»n-
lat. 10° 10' N., a little to the southward of the Buffalo Rocks, extends S. by W . and ^jj'r'^u'cri'oint
S.S.W., having some jirojections and indentations with several islets and reefs, at the toUoundCapc.
distance of from 1 to 2 and 3 miles in some places, the outermost of which are the fol-
16
COAST OF AVA.
Lycliune
Islands.
SaingbainKieu,
or Buffalo
Rocks.
Cape Negrais.
lowing: : a bank of rocky bottom, with fathoms on it, in lat. 1G° 43' N., about 3 miles
ofl' shore, with depths of ITj and 14 fathoms near it, and 12 or 11 fathoms inside, be-
tween it and the main. Mill-stone Rock, above water, in lat. 10° 40' IN., about 3
miles offshore, in the stream of lo fathoms, having several reefs 2 iniles to the south-
ward, and a high isle nearly 3 miles S. by 11. from the rock. Coronge Island, in lat.
16° 32' N., is high, about 2 miles in length North and South, situated contiguous to a
rocky point of the coast, which forms a large bay to the N. E., having some rocks
and islets in it, with soundings of 5 to 7 fathoms. Crawford Shoal, in lat. 1(5° 29' N.,
distant 3| miles W. ^ N. from Conical Cape, and 3 miles S.W. from tlie south end of
Coronge Island, is partly dry at low water spring tides, having 16 fathoms close to it
on the outside, and 12 or 1 1 fathoms about a mile inside ; but Conical Cape must be
avoided, as breakers and a White Rock front it, at tiiree-quarters and half a mile distance,
LYCHUNE ISLANDS, in lat. 16° 23' N.,two in number, lie near each other, and
^^ miles offshore, the innermost being called Oong-chune; reefs and rocky islets ex-
tend 2 miles to the northward of them, and the adjacent coast is lined with rocks or
reefs. The depths near the outer reefs and islands are 9 and 10 fathoms irregular,
with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, in some of the passages between the islands or reefs.
SAINGBAIN KIEU, or BUFFALO ROCKS, in lat. 16° 19' to 16° 22^' N., Ion.
94° 12' E., bear nearly S. i W. from the outermost Calventura Rocks, distant 10 or 11
leagues ; they are a group of detached rugged rocks, extending nearly North and South
about 3| miles, situated about 3 miles from the shore, and bearing North from the
western extremity of Cape Negrais. The North Buffalo is a little more tlian half a
mile to the S.W. of the outer Lychnne Island, and about mid-way betwixt it and theSouth
Buffalos, Perforated Rock and Pillar Rock are situated ; the sounding betwixt these
rocks and tlie North or South Buffalo are from 9 to 12 fathoms, and nearly the same
depths continue to the edge of the shoal bank, about a mile inside the Southern Buffalos,
which shoal bank extends along the coast about the distance of H miles from the
shore, having on it several dangers and rocks above water. At Round Cape, in lat.
10° 154' N., the coast is more safe to approach, and continues so to the Brother Hills
in lat. "16° 8' N., excepting that a rock called Black Rock, in lat. 10° II' N., lies
above water 2^ or 3 miles off shore, having 9 and 10 fathoms Avater close to it on the
inside.
On the West side of the Buffalo Rocks the soundings are regular, 20 fathoms about
a mile from them, and 50 or 00 fathoms at 5 leagues' distance ; but they should not,
without great caution, be approached in the nigiit, nor should 'the coast between the
Calventura Rocks and the Buffalo Rocks be borrowed on under 20 fathoms in most
places, excepting during fine weather in the daytime.
CAPE NEGRAIS, in lat. 16° 2' N., Ion. 94° 13' E., by chronometers and lunar
observations, is the south-westernmost land of the coast of Ava, but the southernmost
extremity of that coast is generally called Thay-gin or Pagoda Point, from a pa-
goda standing upon it, in lat. 15° 56^' N., bearing nearly S. E. by S. from the former,
distant 5^ or 6 miles. Very near the point there is a large rock, and red cliffs stretch
from it towards Cape Negrais, which are fronted by a reef, extending a considerable
way out ; this reef terminates at the north end of the red cliffs near Cape Negrais,
and should not be approached under 8 or 9 fathoms in a large ship. To the north-
ward of the red cliffs the shore is more bold, there being from 11 to 12 fathoms soft
COAST OF AVA. — NEGRAIS RIVER. 17
ground within 2 or 3 miles of the Cape ; but between the latter and the Brother Hills,
straggling rocks or reefs project 1^ miles from the shore, which should not be ap-
proached under 1 1 or 10 fathoms.
NEGRAIS RIVER, called also Persaim and Basseen River, formed between Pa- Negrais River.
goda Point to the westward and Point Porian to the S. Eastward, is navigable a great
way inland : there are two channels that lead into it, one on each side of Negrais
Island, and the western channel forms a good harbour betwixt that island and the
west side of the river. The eastern channel is not so safe, for an extensive reef pro-
jects from the land about Point Porian nearly to Diamond Island, and a reef projects
also from Negrais Island a great way to the S. West, wliich, with otiier detached shoal
baulks, jiearly join the extremity of the former reef and Diamond Island. IMiis river
has generally been a place of resort for trading vessels from Coringa and other parts
of the Coromandel coast.*
Hin-gie, or Negrais Island, situated in the entrance of the river, about 4 or 5 miles Hin-gieorXe-
inside Pagoda Point and nearest to the western shore, is conspicuous by a hill on it, ^""^ '*'''"''•
which is the easternmost high land on the coast ; Point Porian, on the south-east side
the rivers mouth, being the first low land, formed of white clifl's, and covered with trees.
A ship intending to anchor under Pagoda Point should bring it to bear N. E. i N. To sail into the
or N. E. by N., then steer for it ; some hard casts of 0, or perjjaps 5 fathoms, may be !^[s R-yer'^^'
got on the tail of the sand that extends from Negrais Island, and when the Point bears
from N. to N.W. about ]| miles, she may anchor in 6 or 6^ fathoms mud. A siiip
going in for the harbour or channel between the island and western shore should
round Pagoda Point at the distance of half a mile in (J or 6^ fathoms, but a little inside
the point the channel becomes more contracted.
The whole of the coast of Ava, from the extremity of the Aracan Mountains near General de-
Cheduba to Cape Negrais, is a continued ridge of craggy land, tolerably high, broken poas''t"''" "' '*"*
into clitls of reddish earth in many places, and generally with low trees or brush-wood
upon it, without any signs of cultivation or inhabitants towards the sea.
LYCHUNE, or DIAMOND ISLAND, in lat. 15° 52' or 54' N., Ion. 94° 19' E., oiatnond
by chronometers from Madras and lunar observations, and in Ion. 94° 15^' E. by J*'^''-
Captain Ross, bears nearly S.by E. from Pagoda Point, distant 5^ or 6 miles, and
fronting the entrance of Negrais River; it is low, covered with trees, about 1^ miles
in extent, and may be seen about 5 leagues ; but it should not be approached in a large
vessel without great caution, on account of the reefs that surround it.f
ALGUADA REEF, called also Sunken or Drowned Island, bears from Dia- Aipuada Reef,
mond Island S.S. \V. about 3^ leagues, the southern extremity of it being in lat. "' ^""^^"
15° 41' N. ; it is a very dangerous reef of rocks, level with the surface of the sea, ex-
tending N. E. and S.W. about 2 miles, and it is very narrow ; but there are detached
rocks at a considerable distance from it, on some of which the sea breaks iu bad
weather.
* When Captain Pope was here in 1788, there were five ships under English colours in the river. He came
from Rangoon River in a boat to Ava RiviT, by an inland navigation like tlie Sunderbunils in Bengal.
f At some seasons it is much i'rc<iut'iiti'(l by turtle, but it is i(m>iiU'rt'cl unlu'althy and dangerous for people
to sleep on shore, for His Majesty's ship Svbillc lost several of her men who remained on shore during the niglu ;
those who were on the island in the daytime, and returned on board in the evening, escaped the fever that
speedily terminated the lives of the former.
VOL. II. U
Island.
18
COAST OF AVA. — DANGERS.
Passage be-
tween Alguada
Ri'cf and
Diamond
Island.
The passage between Diamond Island and Alguada Reef is certainly very dangerous,
and onght not to be adopted in any sliip, e.\ce|)t in a case of great necessity. Some
slii|)s have |)assed through it in former times, but the exact limits of the reefs on each
side, and the true situations of other detached sunken rocks, are very imperfectly
known ; consequently this ciiannel is unsafe. Several ships have struck upon these
sunken rocks, one of which was his Majesty's ship Exeter, in November, 1748; and
tiie Company's ship Travers, bound to IJengal, was totally lost at 5 a.m., November
7th, 1808, on a rock said to bear N. N. E. from Alguada Reef, distant about one mile ;
probably the same on which the Exeter struck. Ships which have ])assed between
Diamond Island and Alguada Reef have generally endeavoured to keep in J) or 10 fa-
thoms water, about 3 or '2}j miles from tiie former, as reefs project from it about H or
2 miles to the southward and S. Westward ; but the greatest dangers are nearly mid- way
between the islands, for a sunken rock is thought to lie about .3 or 4 miles nearly S.
by E. from Diamond Island, another al)out the same distance S. S.W. from it, nearly
in a direct line towards Alguada Reef, and another to the S. Westward of it, about
2 leagues' distance.
Phseton Shoal.
Tides.
Ciiannel
outside of
.Alguada Reef.
JIarks for the
Reef.
Passage to
Ben sal.
PH^.TON SHOAL, on which his Majesty's ship Phaeton struck, February 16th,
1810, obliging her to go to Bengal to repair, bears S.W. by S. from Diamond Island,
distant 4 miles, and N. by E. -5 miles from Alguada Reef, having 9 fathoms water close
to, 9 feet water upon it, and is of small extent.
Exclusive of these dangers, the bottom is chiefly uneven and rocky betwixt Diamond
Island and Alguatia Reef, with a heavy turbulent swell, occasioned by tiie .sea beating
upon the reefs, and the strong tides, which here set the Hood to the E. S. E. and the ebb
to the W. N. W. The rise of tide is about 9 or. 10 feet on the springs, high water about
10| hours on full and change of the moon, in the entrance of the river. From the
heavy, confused swell that generally prevails in this dangerous channel, even during
calm weather, it is often called the Race of Negrais, and certainly should be avoided by
ships; for by rounding the south end of Alguada Reef, they are but a few miles far-
ther out, in a safe and spacious channel, about 17 leagues wide, between it and the
Island Preparis.
When the sea is smootli in the N. E. monsoon, the breakers on Sunken Island are
not high, but when the weather is clear, the approach to it may always be known by
the bearings of the land ; for when the west end of Diamond Island is coming into
contact with tlie east end of the hill on Negrais Island, Alguada Reef is then in the same
direction, bearing N. N. E., and the western extreme of Cape Negrais will bear nearly
north. At 4 or 5 miles' distance from Alguada Reef, both to the eastward and west-
ward, the dejjths are generally from 15 to 17 or 18 fathoms blue mud, and to the south-
ward of it, at the same distance, 19 and 20 fathoms. It is prudent not to approach
Alguada Reef nearer than 2 leagues on the east side, nor under 3 leagues on the N.W.
side, on account of the rock situated to the S. Westward of Diamond Island, men-
tioned above. About 4 or 5 leagues to the westward, the bank shelves suddenly to no
grounfl, but soundings extend from Alguada Reef to Preparis, and the depths increase
to 40 and 50 fathoms in the track between them ; near to Preparis Island they are ir-
regular in some places, but on the east side of the island, decrease to 8 fathoms within
less than a mile of the shore, where there is a pool of fresh water.
SHIPS BOUND TO BENGAL IN THE NORTH-EAST MONSOON should
not keep within sight of the coasts of Ava and Aracan, which was formerly considered
COAST OF PEGU. 19
indispensable to secure the passage ; but experience shews, that northerly or light
winds prevail greatly on these coasts, and the current sets often to the southward, ren-
dering the progress at times very slow; it therefore happens, that coppered ships
which keep out in the open sea, at a reasonable distance from the land, generally make
the best passages up the bay in this monsoon. Ships which sail indifferently, or being
short of water, if they intend to adojjt the |)assage along the coasts of Ava and Aracan,
ought to keep well in with the shore where it is safe to approach, that they may
benefit by the breezes from the land, when these are found to prevail ; and also to
preserve moderate depths for anchoring, when it falls calm, with the current un-
favourable.
Severe storms are liable to happen at the setting in of the N. E. monsoon, and at
times in the S.W. monsoon. November 12th, 1797, the Comj)any's ship iMinerva had
a hurricane from the eastward, oft' Cheduba, which blew away all iier sails, broke the
top-masts, washed an anchor and some casks from her gunwales and waist, and obliged
them to cut away some of the boats. Many other ships have been dismasted, or suf-
fered damage, in October or November, near the coasts of Aracan or Ava.
COAST OF PEGU, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING TO
AND FR03I RANGOON RIVER.
DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST.
THE COAST OF PEGU extends from Negrais River to the Gulf of Martaban, and coast of Pcgu
is generally low and woody, intersected by the many branches of the Irrawady and other
rivers, with reefs and shoal water extending along it to a considerable distance ; it is,
therefore, a dangerous coast in the S.W. monsoon, for the tides set strong, and a ship
might run aground in some places before the land could be perceived.
Between the Negrais River, in 94° 25' E., and the Rangoon River, in Ion. 96° 20' E.,
the coast is but imperfectly known ; its general direction from Porian Point is S.
Easterly, changing gradually to N. Easterly, and the whole of it is fronted by a reef
projecting 2 or 2^ leagues from the shore in some places, with hard ground close to it
a ov (i^ fathoms. When 22 miles East from Diamond Island by chronometer, in lat.
15° 40' N., a ship will have 6^ fathoms on the edge of the reef, a low point then bear-
ing N. E. I N., distant 8 or 9 miles. From hence, the coast stretches E. by S. and
East 12 or 14 leagues to Baragu River, but the reef takes a more southerly direction
in some places, where it projects .3^ and 4 leagues from the shore; about 14 leagues
eastward from Diamond Island, and from thence to about 25 leagues East from the
same island, the reef extends farther to the southward than at any other part of the
coast, tlu! latitude of its southern verge being hero about 15° 35' N., where it extends
from the land 4 and 5 leagues abreast of Baragu and Dalla Rivers. It is dangerous
and steep, and from 7 to 3 fathoms the distance is not more than half a mile, perhaps
much less in some places.
From Dalla River the coast changes its direction, and stretches nearly N. E. to the coa^'i™™
° , "^ Dalla River.
D 2
20 COAST OF PEGU, — RANGOON RIVER.
entrance of Ranijoon River about 20 or 22 leajjues, having reefs and shoal banks as
before projectini;' from it 3 or 4 leagues, whicii siioukl not be approached under 5 or 6
fatlionis. Tlie wliole of this space is low land, intersected l)y many rivers and creeks,
which form numerous islands; the best lijuide in approa(-hing it is the soinidings, for
near the verge of the reef abreast of Baragu Point and farther westward the bottom is
generally sand and shells, or hard and stony ; between Dalla River and Kangoon Bar
it is mostly soft ooze, and to the eastward of the bar it is generally stifi'mud.
Exclusive of the quality of soundings, in clear weather the following land-marks
may be seen, which will point out the entrance of Rangoon River. The tii-st that
will be discerned in coming from the S.W. is a grove of trees, about o or leagues to
the S. Westward of Rangoon River, called China Buckeer, which in some views re-
sembles a quoin, but it is not seen until a ship g<ts into fathoms water ; in approach-
ing it from sea, bearing about North, it will be seen from the mast-head, appearing
like a small island, and the latitude will then be about 10° 10' N. China Buckeer is
the mark that ships bound for Rangoon River first endeavour to see, to prevent being
carried past their port to the N. Eastward by the flood tide.
Rangoon RANGOON RIVER is called also Sirian and Pegu River ; on the bar there are
^'^^' 3^ and 4 fathoms, and some parts, dry at low water spring tides, are visible on the
steep banks on both sides of the channel.* This river may be easily known by the
clump of coco-nut trees called the Western Grove or the Elephant, which, with a
little help of the imagination, does somewhat resemble that animal, situated on the
point of land that forms the west side of the entrance. A little way from it there are
three palmyra trees on a small rising ground, and a few more between them and the
Elephant. poiut. The Elephant, by Captain I ley wood's ob.servations, is in lat. 10° 29' N., Ion.
9if 25' E., or 2° G' E. from Diamond Island by chronometer. Captain Ross, in
his late survey, made the Elephant Pagoda in lat. 16° 28' N., Ion. 96° 23|' E. On
the east side of the entrance the trees grow thicker together, and are sometimes called
the Eastern Grove ; here, they are more even at top and not so high as those on the
west side, and what is very remarkable, on the N.E. side of the river there is not oiie
palmyra tree betweeii the north-ctist pomt. and a small mount or hillock inshore which
shews itself above the trees ; although from that mount to the eastward there are many
growing at some distance from each other, all nearly double the height of the other
trees which surround them.
The Town. Rangoon Town is situated on the north shore of a considerable branch of
the principal river that e.vtends to the westward about a league, and then takes a
northerly direction as before : the town, distant about 8 leagues to the nortiiward of
the bar, is a place of considerable trade. The country abounds with straight teak
timber,t .some of which is exported to Calcutta and other parts of India for ship-
building ; and there are many ships of various dimensions built at Rangoon, although
the crooked timber here is not so diuable, and far inferior to that used on the Malabar
Supplies. coast for ship-building. Rice, poultry, hogs, fruits, and vegetables, and other articles
• The ship Janet Hutton was wrecked in 1825, on the edge of the sands, on the western side of the channel,
with the Elephant Pagoda bearing about N. ^ W., distant 5} miles.
f The forests of large straight teak are situated on the low country in the vicinity of the rivers ; the trees
are cut down in the dry season, and when the low country is inundated by the swelling of the rivers during
the rains, the felled trees are conducted to the river and floated down in large rafts to Rangoon. In the hilly
country there is probably plenty of crooked teak timber for ship-building, but the inconvenience of getting it
to the rivers has hitherto proved an obstacle too great for the natives to attempt bringing any of it to Rangoon.
COAST OF PEGU. — TIDES. 2 1
of refreshment, may be procured in abundance and at reasonable prices. Wood oil,
earth oil, wax, dammer, and other articles, are exported from hence.
Da"on Pa2;oda is about H miles to the N. K.W. of Rangoon town, elevated 487 Position of the
feet above high water level, by the observations of Captain Ross, who places it in lat. "^^^ "*"'""'
16° 47' ]\., Ion. 9(i° 13' E., by mean of chronometers from Fort William and Chitta-
gong, corroborated by lunar observatious.
High water at Rangoon at 5 hours 30 minutes, on full and change of moon ; rise of Tides.
tide then, and for two days afterwards, from 20 to 21 feet, and 13 or 14 feet on the
neaps. Variation 2° 48' Easterly by theodolite, in 1825.
SITTANG RIVER, about 10 or 11 leagues E. N. Eastward from Rangoon Bar, is Sittang River.
the easternmost and principal branch of Pegu River; it is shoal, l)ut wider tiian tlie
other, generally called Rangoon River, and it forms a natural division between the
low coasts of Pegu and the high land called Zingaat Mountains, or Martaban Hills,
by falling into the bottom of the Gulf of Martaban.
TIDES ON THE COAST OF PEGU generally run very strong; the flood sets Tides.
East and E. by N., and the ebb in the contrary direction to the westward of Baragu
Point; but from that point to Rangoon Bar the flood sets N.E. and N. E. by N., and
the ebb to the S.W. ; farther East, between Rangoon River and the coast of Martaban,
the flood runs N. N. E. and N. by E., strong into the bottom of the gulf, and the ebb
equally strong out of it, in the opposite direction. When the rivers are swelled, and
the low country inundated by the rains at the end of the S.W. mon.soon, the ebb tides
are much stronger and run longer than tlie flood tides, occasioned by freshes from the
rivers; the water then is very thick and muddy at a considerable distance from the
land, which is more or less the case on this coast at all times, opposite to the numerous
rivers that disembogue into the sea.
Abreast of Baragu Point, and farther westward, the velocity of the tides is not near
so great as ofl" Rangoon River and in the bottom of the gulf; for here it is frequently
in the springs 4 and 5 miles an hour, and sometimes more near the edges of the shoal
banks. After the rains, the tides oft' Rangoon River are subject to a circular motion,
the first of the flood sets Fast, changing gradually to N. E. about half flood, and to
INorth in the latter part. The ebb sets just the reverse: beginning to run \\ est, it
changes gradually to S. W. and South, ending at S. E. ; but there is no slack water at
these times, the tides continuing to run H or 2 knots when changing from the flood to
the ebb, and the same at the opposite change.
On the west part of the coast, oft" Porian Reef, the perpendicular rise and fall of the
ti(h' is only 9 or 10 feet on the springs ; but oft' Rangoon Bar it is frequently 20 or 21
feet, and from 21 to 24 feet farther to the eastward in the bottom of the gulf near the
banks at the entrance of Sittang River ; caution is therefore proper in making free
with this part of the coast, and it is necessary to acquire a knowledge of the tides in
order to prevent any mistake, by anchoring near higli water in a situation where a ship
would be aground at low water.* It is high water at the Elephant Point and on
Rangoon Bar about 3^ hours on full and change of the moon.
• Captain P. Heywood, in his Majesty's sloop Trincomalee, November 19th, 1801, anchored in 5j fathoms
at hijjh water, and had only 13 feet at low water, witli the E]e])hant trees bearing N. 36- \V. about 5 leanues ;
westernmost e.xtreme of the land N. 78° W. A remarkable mount on the east side of Rangoon River N. 22J^
W.; N. E. extreme N. 49° E. Martaban Hills E. N. E. This was the day preceding full moon, and the water
22 PASSAGE TO RANGOON lUVER FROM THE WESTWARD.
PASSAGES TO AND FROM RANGOON.
Passage from SHIPS BOUND TO RANGOON from Bengal in the N.E. monsoon should
nanTo'rhl^Ihe ^^^^ Cajjc NcgTais, and ]iass round to the southward of Alguada Reef; those which
N. E. mon- couie froni INIadi'as or other parts of the Coroniandel coast in tlie same season, after
*°°"' boating across the bay, may pass through the channel between Alguada Reef and
Preparis, or l)ctwocn the latter and Cocos Islands, as may be most convenient. In
this season, from October to February, it is prudent, after passing Alguada Reef, to
steer to the eastward for Baragu Point, endeavouring to keep in with the coast, for at
times there is very little flood, the freshes from the rivers frequently producing a con-
stant current setting to South-west and round to North-west.
If you fall in with the land to the westward of Baragu Point, the water will shoal
quickly from 20 to 10 and 10 fathoms towards tiie edge of the reef; and in a large
ship it would be imprudent to borrow under 9 or 10 fatlioms, for in some places the
edge of the reef takes a S. Easterly direction, and is steep from 6 to 3 or 3^ fathoms,
when the low land is hardly discernible.
Soundings extend a great way out from this coast, there being 43 and 44 fathoms
about 24 leagues South from Baragu Point, in lat. 14° 30^ N. ; and from thence,
soundings continue on the same parallel to the coast of Martaban.
If not affected by lateral tides, the depth w ill decrease in steering East, when a ship
is to the westward of Baragu Point ; steering the same course, it will decrease when
she is to the eastward of that point, and she may then steer to the N. Eastward if the
wind admit, borrowing to 7 or 8 fathoms towards the edges of the banks that line the
coast. If the wind be far eastward, rendering it necessary to tack at times, the coast
may be approached to 6^ and 7 fathoms, or nearer occasionally, when to the eastward
of Baragu Point and Dalla River ; the soundings over a soft bottom being then more
regular, and the banks not so steep as they are to the westward. On approaching
Rangoon River, haul in to get a sight of the land, and make it in about lat. 16^ 10' N.;
China Buckeer may then be seen, appearing like a low island, if the depth is not
above 6 fathoms, and will probably bear N. by W. ^ VV., or N. N.W., but it cannot be
discerned when the depth of water is more than 5f or G fathoms. After passing China
Buckeer the coast may be approached occasionally in a small ship, to 3f or 4 fathoms
at low water, or to 6 fathoms at high water ; the Elephant will soon be perceived,
and when it bears N. by W. the Eastern Grove on the opposite side of the river may
be seen bearing to the eastward of North ; it will then be proper to anchor and make
the signal for a pilot, or dispatch a boat with an officer into the river for one, if the
weather is favourable.
If the land be not seen when in shoal water, with the bottom stiff mud, and the
tides be found to set N. N. E. or N. by E., and opposite, you will, in such case, be to
the eastward of the bar, and must haul to the westward with the ebb until the bottom
is soft and the tides be found to set more to the N. E. and S. Westward, then steer in
for the land and endeavour to get sight of the Elephant and Eastern Grove, where you
may anchor off the bar and wait for a pilot.
Passage from Ships bouud to Rangoon from Malacca Strait, Achen, or the Nicobar Islands, in the
the southward. ]\_ £ mousoou should eudeavour to pass in sight of the westernmost islands of the
Mergui Archipelago, and from thence to the northward in a direct line for the en-
seems to have been very shoal at 5 leagues' distance from the land, but the place where this ship anchored with
these bearings was probably to the eastward of the fair channel leading to the river.
PASSAGE TO RANGOON RIVER FROM THE WESTWARD. 23
trance of Rangoon River. Should circumstances render it necessary, at a ship's arri-
val there, to venture over the bar without a |)ilot, the best track is to bring the two To proceed
points that form the entrance of the river a little open, and steer in with them open fnto'therWer.
about a ship's length, observing to keep, if possible, nearly in raid-channel. In pro-
ceeding to cross the bar, it ought not to be attempted before half-tlood, for the first of
the flood sets strong to the eastward upon the Middle Ground Shoal, situated on the
east side of the channel, which, close to, has deep water and irregular soundings. If
Ental Point on the east side the river open fast with the western point of the same, a
ship ought not to anchor until the tide set fair into the river, which is after half-tlood,
and that is the most favourable time to cross the bar. Coming from the S.W., w hen the
Elephant is brought to bear N. by W., a ship ought to haul up for the channel, the
pagoda at the Elephant bearing N. by \V. ^ W. to N. N. W., being a fair bearing
until within 2 or 3 miles of the bar ; and it may be observed, that if Ental Point is
kept open with the western point of the river's entrance she will not ground on the
west side of the channel, until the shoal spit fronting the Middle Ground is approached,
whicii extends from the Elephant Point 3 miles, the tail of it bearing S. E. from the
Elephant Pagoda, having only 1^ fathoms on it at low water, and the channel be-
tween it and the middle ground is rather less than a mile wide.*
When within the bar, and having brought the Elephant or Western Grove to bear
about South, the western shore should be borrowed on close, the channel on that side
being free from danger nearly to the distance of three leagues up the river.
Although the pilots have sometimes got ships upon the Middle Ground, yet, if un-
acquainted, it would be imprudent to attempt to cross over the bar without one, par-
ticularly in a vessel of considerable burthen, unless in a case of necessity. When
Captain Ross surveyed the river, he placed Red Buoys on the tails of the sands which
lie on the west side of the channel, and Black Buoys on those which lie on the eastern
side.
If bound to Rangoon from Bengal in the S.W. monsoon, a ship should endeavour to Passage trom
make the Island Preparis, or rather the Cocos Islands, if the wind admit ; and after ^Vangoon'^fn
passing through either channel as most eligible, a course ought to be steered to fall in the s. w
with the coast of Pegu, about China Buckeer, or little to the westward of Rangoon "lo"^"""
Bar. A ship from Madras, or any other part of the Coromandel coast in the same
season, ought to make Landfall Island at the north end of the Great Andaman, "if the
wind be far southerly, or the Cocos Islands, if it be at westward, then pass through the
channel between them. From the Cocos Channel, she may steer about East to get a
sight of jNarcondam if the weather be clear, aud then to the N. Eastward for the land
on the west side of Rangoon Bar. If by accident she get to the eastward of the bar a
few leagues, Martaban Hills w ill be seen if the weather is clear ; and in such case she
must work to the westwartl with the ebb tide.
Ships bound to Rangoon, from the INicobars, Achen, or Malacca Strait, in the S.W. Passage from
monsoon, ought to make the Island Narcondam, and from thence steer as before jn'ihe's. w"
directed, to fall in with the land a little to the westward of the bar. All ships ap- monsoon.
proaching the coast of Pegu in this season ought to be well provided with ground
tackle, for the weather is often dark ami squally, preventing the land from being seen,
and it would generally be imprudent to borrow under (i fathoms, until some part of the
• An excellent survey of Rangoon Kiver, from below the bar to the Kcmnieniline or Dagon Pagoda, by
Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1825, lias been engraved for the benefit of navigation, and
should be procured by every ship bound to Rangoon ; although it must be observed, that the banks and chan-
nels are constantly undergoing changes by the strong freshes and rapid tides.
24
PASSAGES FROM RANGOON RIVER.
coast is discerned and the situation known ; ships are, therefore, necessitated at times
to ride at anchor diirinu; strong gales on the springs when the tides are very rapid ; this
oiigiit to he done in 7^ or H fathoms water at least, and not in shoal water near the
banks which bound the coast.
Passage from
Rangoon in
the N. E.
monsoon.
Passage from
Kangoon in Ilie
S. W. moii-
Passape to
Madras.
DEPARTING FROM RANGOON RIVER in the N.E. monsoon, ships bound
to Bengal should steer, when clear of the bar, to pass at a moderate distance outside
the shoals that stretch from the coast, then to the southward of Sunken Island ; after-
wartls, (hey may keep at a reasoual)le ilistance from the coasts of Ava and Aracan, in
proceeding toward the River Hoogly. Tiiose bound to Madras, or other parts of the
Coromandel coast, may at discretion pass through any of the channels l)etween Sun-
ken Island and Landfall Island at the North end of the Great Andaman, and then steer
direct for their port, observing to fall in to tlie northward of it before Fel)ruary, and
afterwards to the southward. Sl)ips in the same season bound fo Malacca Strait ought
to make the south end of Junkseylon ; and if bound to Achen or the JNicobar Islands,
a direct course may be pursued to the place of destination.
Departing from Rangoon River in the S.W. monsoon, it is proper to work to the
westward along the coast as far as Baragu Point, before a ship stand out into the open
sea, whether she be bound for Bengal, the Coromandel coast, Achen, or Malacca
Strait. In coming out of the river, the pilot should not l)e |)ermitted to take leave
until the ship is well out, with tiie Elepliant bearing N. by W., and in 5 fathoms water,
unless those on board are well acquainted with the coast, and the exact situation known.
In 5 t\xthoms witli the Elephant N. by W., she will be near mid-channel; stretching
from thence to sea, the water will soon shoal to 4^ fathoms, then she should tack and
stand inshore to 6 fathoms and again tack, for the increase of depth denotes the ap-
proach to the inshore dangers.
When China Buckeer is brought to bear W. by S., longer tacks to seaward may be
made at discretion, but it is advisable to keep near the coast, anchoring occasionally,
and taking advantage of the tides, which run very strong. When in -5^ fathoms near
low water, with China Buckeer bearing W. by N. 4 or 5 leagues, it may be seen ap-
pearing like a small island in the form of a quoin, and a very little of any other part of
the coast will then he discernible. Should it be night before a ship is abreast of China
Buckeer, she ought with the ebb to be permitted to drive to the windward under stay-
sails, and the lead carefully attended to, that her situation may be known. Tlie
approach towards the shore will be shewn by the lead, the soundings being regular
nntil a small patch of land called False China Buckeer is l)earing N. N.W., or until
the opening of Dalla River is abreast. Having got this far, the coast should not be
borrowed on nearer than 7 or 8 fathoms; the soundings will be ooze throughout until
Dalla River is passed, then sand and shells, ^^Ilich is a certain sign of the approach to
Baragu Point. From this jioint, ships which sail well, if bound to Bengal, may con-
tinue to work to the westward, and pass between the Cocos and Preparis Island, or
near to the northern part of the latter; and from thence, if the wind keep between
S.W. and S. S.W., they will probably reach Balasore Road without tacking; otherwise,
they must endeavour to get to the westward, l)y taking every advantage to tack with the
favourable shifts.
Sliips bound to Madras will find it tedious and difficult to beat across the bay from
the coast of Pegu during the S.W. monsoon, and those that sail indiflerently will find
it impracticable; it therefore seems advi.sablc for them to pursue the same route as if
bound to Achen. After working one or two tides to the westward of Baragu Point, a
COASTS OF MARTABAN AND TAVOY. 25
ship bound to Madras, or any port on the Coromandel coast, to Achen, or Malacca
Strait, may stand out to sea it the wind is well to the westward, and endeavour to pass
near the Island Narcondani ; in proceeding to the southward, care is recpiisite to tack
occasionally and keep well to the westward of the Arcliipelaijo of Islands fronting the
coast of Tanasserim, which form a lee shore, althougli between several of them there
are safe channels. If bound into Malacca Strait, after rounding the south end of
Junkseylon, a direct course may be steered for Prince of Wales Island, hut a ship bound
lor Achen ought to keep well to the westward, towards the JNicobar Islands, if that
can be conveniently done ; otherwise, slie may stand close upon a wind to the south-
ward and make tl)e coast of Pedir, where a favourable current will be found setting to
the westward, which will soon carry her to Achen. At this place she ought to fill up
her water, if bound to the Coromandel coast or to Ceylon, then proceed througii the
Bengal passage, close round tlie north end of Pulo Brasse, to sea, as circumstances
render convenient. When out in the open sea, every advantage should be taken to get
to the S. Westward, and an indifl'erent sailing ship will probably have to proceed
several degrees South of the equator before she can obtain westing sufficient to reach
her port with safety. Ships that sail well upon a wind may make a more direct pas
sage from Achen to the Coromandel coast, w hich has sometimes been accomplished
in less than a fortnight, during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, although a longer
time may be required.
The Company's ship Arnaad, Captain Corstorphine, left Rangoon River July 3rd,
182G, pa.ssed Achen on the 2.3th, and round the north end of Pulo Brasse on the
same evening, and on the 5th of August arrived at Madras; having only made a few-
short tacks in crossing the bay, when the wind drew to the westward three or four
times.
COASTS OF MARTABAN AND TAVOY.
THE ZINGAAT MOUNTAINS, or MARTABAN HILLS, occupy the tract of zmgaator
land, Nortii of Pelew Gewen Island, which is comprehended between the Sittang and wartabaniiiii*
Martaban Uivers ; they are distant from tiie mouth of Rangoon River about 17 leagues,
and bear nearly East from it. At the foot of these hills is the Town of Martaban, or
Mautama, on the north bank of the river of the same name.* The Town of Moul-
mein, in hit. ICf 30' N., on the south l)ank of the river, oi)|)osite to Martaban, and
2-> miles from Aiidierst, has been founded as the chief British settlement on this
nortlicrn boundary of the ceded provinces.
PEIiEW-CEWEN ISLAND, formerly called Bruxe or Buga, occupies the head
of the Gulf of Martaban, its N. E. point fronting the river of that name. It is mode-
rately elevated, and is said to be very fertile; it is 17 miles long and 8 broad, extend-
ing from lat. 10° 14' to 10° 31' N. Pelew-Gewen is fronted to seaward l)y shoal banks,
which prevent the navigation of the passage, north of tlie island leading to Martaban ;
• This river is also culled San-luen, or Sanloan JNIeycct ; Mcycet or Myect signifying a Great River, in
the Burmese language.
VOL. II. li
26
MARTABAN RIVER.
the only availaljle channel being that which runs due North and South, between the
eastern siioie of the island and the main. The entrance to this channel is 7 miles
South of the island, being formed on the N.W. by an extensive sand-bank called the
Godwin Sand, which projects from the south point of the island, and by the reefs of
Cape Kyai-kami to the S. E. Tlie Godwin dries in some parts at low water spring
tides. The distance from the bar to the town of Martaban is about 8i or 9 leagues,
nearly north, but the depths in the channel are not more than 1^, 2, or ."} fathoms in
several places, and the river contains many banks and dangers, which render the navi-
gation intricate for persons unacquainted.
Cape Kyai-
kami Qtiekmi
Poguda.
CAPE KYAI-KAMI, or QUEKMI, called also Cape Champion, upon which
stands the Pagoda of Quekmi, bounds the entrance of tlie Martaban River on the
eastern side, and lies in hit. 10^ 4.^ N., Ion. 97^ 35' E., or 9^ 14^' East from Fort Wil-
liam, and being low, is not seen above I'i miles from tiie deck ; but the mountain about
5 miles to the S. E. of the point is visible 9 or 10 leagues off. The reef extends from
the point in a N. Westerly direction 1^ miles, rendering great caution necessary, for
there is no good land-mark on the western side of the channel to guide a ship in en-
terins: between the reef and the Godwin Sand.
Marlabaii
River.
Tides.
Directions.
Tlie Einaad's
passnpe to and
from Martaban
River.
MARTABAN RIVER, having been fixed on as the boundary between the Bur-
mese dominions and the territory ceded to the British Government, Amherst Town or
Village, in lat. 16° 5' N., has been built on a |)eninsula (to which the same name has
been given), situated near the mouth of Martaban River, and formed between the
Kalyen River to the eastward, and the sea terminating in Cape Kyai-kami. The tides
in the Martaban River are strong, their velocity being about 5 miles per hour on the
springs, and 3 miles during the neaps : high water at 2 iiours 20 minutes at the point
of the reef, at full and change of moon, and at 2 hours at Amherst ; and the rise of
tide from 20 to 22 feet : the depths at low water in some parts of the channel are only
about 2 fathoms, and it is very narrow between the reef at the entrance and the tail of
the Godwin Sand to the westward ; there are also some narrow gaps in the reef, one
of which is called Brisbane Pas.sage, which ought never to be attempted by any ship.
No vessel should run into the harbour at low tide, if drawing above 10 feet water, and
the best time to enter with a fair wind is at high water slack, as the tide sets very
rapidly across the narrow passage, liable to set a ship on the Godwin Sand ; but a pilot
will be required for strangers. As this place is intricate and very dangerous at all
times, particularly in the S.W. monsoon, it cannot be expected to become of much im-
portance for shipping. It is advisable to approach the entrance of this river in lat.
10^ N., and when on this parallel, in Ion. 90^ 30' E., the Zingaat Mountains will be
discernible in favourable weather. If soundings of 10 or 11 fathoms are obtained, a
vessel will be on the Martaban coast ; but if they decrease to G or 7 fathoms, she will
be on the edge of the banks fronting Rangoon River or the adjacent coast. A ship
sailing from Amherst in the S.W. monsoon, before obtaining an offing, may probably
be obliged to anchor two or three times during the flood tide, with the risk of riding
very hard, or parting her cable by the heavy sea.
The Ship Ernaad, Captain Corstorphine, left Martaban River June 22nd, 1829,
bound to Madras, with squally and rainy weather for two days, and was obliged to
make several tacks to the westward to obtain an offinc: before she could stretch to the
southward.
Again, the Ernaad left Madras June 3rd,
1829, for Martaban River; on the 7th
MARTABAN COAST. 27
passed through the channel between the Cocos and Andaman Isles ; arrived off the
entrance of Martaban River on the 12th, and got a pilot on that day; but s(jually,
unsettled, rainy weather, light airs and calms, rendered it unsafe for her to run for the
harbour against the strong tides which ran out, and to cross the entrance; she was
therefore obliged to remain at anchor outside till the 14th, and on that day got into
Amherst Harbour.
Captain D. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, gives the following directions capt. Ross-s
for approaching Amherst Harbour, which he minutely surveyed. It is proper to make <iirections for
the land between a sn)all island named Double Island in lat. 15° 52' N., and the small Amiierst.'""
isle in lat. 10° 3' N., which is about H miles to the southward of the Pagoda, as without
this precaution, the strong tides may sweep a ship past the buoy that is placed at
the point of tiie reef, and carry her on the Godwin Sand. When 1^ or 2 miles to the
•westward of the small isle, and if then the Reef Buoy is seen bearing about N. N. E.,
endeavour to approach it bearing about N. E., and anchor about a cable's length to
the N.VV. of it in 4^ or 5 fathoms at low water : the depths outside will vary from 9 to 13
fathoms, and when about three-quarters of a mile to the S.W. of the buoy, there are over-
falls from 9 to 14 Aithoms, quickly shoaling to 7 fathoms at the entrance between the reef
buoy and the Godwin Sand. It is almost indispensable to anchor in the situation men-
tioned above, to wait for a row-boat and pilot, as the channel is narrow, the bottom very
uneven, and the soundings no guide. If the wind be from southward or westward, high
water is the time to weigh, or just at the commencement of the ebb ; but if at North or
N.E., the last quarter of the flood is the proper time to weigh, in order to have a weak
tide under lee, and be enabled to keep the row-boat on the larboard bow, while she
proceeds along the sand, and shewing the depth of water by a flag. The extremity of
the reef being very near the buoy, no ship must pass to the eastward of the latter. The
anchorage at Amherst will admit several ships, but must be avoided by large ves-
sels in the S.W. monsoon, being open to all winds from S. S.W. to West and N.W.,
when a considerable swell rolls in through the gaps of the reef.
From Cape Kyai-kami to the southward, the coast may be approached within 277 or
3 leagues, but not under 5 or (J miles in some places ; for by the late survey of Captliin
Ross, patches of rocks are interspersed at the distance of 3 and 4 miles from the shore,
to the southward of Double Island, already mentioned, which small isle is distant 4^
miles from the land, having and 7 fathoms inside, and 8 fathoms near it on the outside".
The coast is low fronting the sea, and forms a bay occupied by a shoal flat. The flood
a little outside, in 9 fathoms water, has a velocity of 4 miles per hour on spring tides,
and augments in strength as Cape Kyai-kami is approached.
CALAGOUK ISLAND, extending from lat. 15° 30' to 15° 35^' N., Ion. ,97° 41' E., c.iagouk is.
is the only place between Cape Kyai-kami and the Moscos Islands affording safe chor^'j' ""'
anchorage in the S.W. monsoon ; it has been carefully examined by Captain Ross, "^ °"^*'
during his excellent survey of the coast. The island lies 4^ miles distant from the
main, its length being parallel with the shore ; the passage inside it has soundings from
5 or 6, to 8 and 9 fathoms, affording anchorage in 6 or 7 fothoms, close to the highest
land at the N. E. part of the island, where fresh water may be obtained. A ship is well
sheltered by the island, and by the slioal banks which extend from its north end 5
miles N. by E. There is a passage about a mile wide between the N. E. extremity of
these banks and a small isle near the main, in w liich the soundings are from 6 to 9
fathoms; but the proper channel leading to the anchorage is round the south end of
Calagouk, ofl" which, at a quarter of a mile distance, is a small isle, with a reef project-
E 2
28 ' MARTABAN COAST.
ing about a quarter of a mile to the southward of it. The west side of Calagouk
is also lined by a reef, and should not be approached under 11 or 10 fathoms. In pro-
ceeding roimd the small isle, pass to the southward of it at 1 or 2 miles' distance in 7 or 8
fathoms, and when it bears about N. by W. haul to the northward, and pass it on the
east side at any convenient distance from a quarter of a mile to 1 or 1^ miles, it being
safe to approach on that side ; then steer along the east side of Calagouk to the an-
chorage above mentioned, and the soundings will be 6 or 7 fathoms, deepening to 8 or
9 fathoms in mid-channel between the island and the main, which is low near the sea,
and lined by a reef : but there are two peaked hills about 3 leagues inland, and a high
mountain at 7 leagues' distance to the eastward.*
Yeah uiver. YEAH RIVER, Pagoda Point forming the north side of the entrance, is in lat.
15° 12' N., Ion. 97° 48' E., and the entrance of this river is fronted by a group of islands
and reefs of breakers at the distance of 4 or 4^ miles, which seem not to admit of a
navigable channel into the river for large vessels. Pootchoon, the northernmost, and
Nai-oojoon, the southernmost of the group, are the largest of these islands ; Thoatail, the
central one, and another to the S. Eastward, are small. Yeah Town, the capital of the
small province of this name, now belonging to the British Government, is about 5 or 6
miles above the river's mouth, in lat. 15° 14' N. A ridge of high land, that may be seen
at 10 leagues' distance, extends from Pagoda Point along the coast nearly 3 leagues,
and several small isles or reefs lie contiguous to the shore between Calagouk and Yeah
River, which render it prudent to keep at 4 or 5 miles' distance in coasting along, and
Tides. not to conie under 12 or 11 fatlioms water. The flood sets along the coast to the
northward at the rate of 3 miles per hour on the springs, opposite to Yeah River.
From the group of islands fronting this river, other straggling islands and reefs
extend along the coast at 4 miles' distance to lat. 15° 0' N., with irregular soundings
near them.
HossSand. ROSS SAND is a sand-bank at 7 miles' distance from the coast, its northern ex
tremity being in lat. 14° 58' N., where tlie least water found by Captain Ross was
3 fathoms, from whence it stretches South about 2 leagues, with depths from 3 to 4
fatlioms, deepening to 5, 6, and 7 fathoms on its southern part, and having from 12 to 15
fathoms contiguous to its western edge, with 10 and 12 fathoms inside. A ridge of
high land extends from Yeah to the southward, and approaches near to the sea oppo-
site to the above sand-bank, having two peaks forming a saddle, the northernmost of
which is in lat. 15° 0' N. From hence to the Moscos Islands the coast should not be
approached under 5^ or (i miles, being fronted by contiguous rocks, and by a sand-
bank with 4 fathoms water, whicli stretches out to the distanceof 5 miles from the shore
in lat. 14° 40' to 14° 36' N., having a little to the North of it the entrance of a river,
fronted by rocks above water : the south point of this river forms like a Dolphin's
nose.
In lat. 14i° N., soundings of 22 to 28 fathoms are got about 4 and 5 leagues to the
* A survey of the channel and anchorage inside the Island of Calagouk was made in 1830, by Mr. Icely, of
H.M.S. Satellite, under the direction of Capt. Laws, from whom the anchorage received the name of Bentinck
Sound. Vessels, he says, of 10 feet draft may be laid on shore for repair at North Creek, about a mile from the
north point of the island. Wood and some fruit may be procured, and 3 or 4 tons of water per day
in the dry season at Mahomed's Well, which is near the sandy beach 1| miles farther to the southward. Buf-
faloes and rice are to be had at a village up Dermoniai Creek, on the mainland opposite. High water at 13h.
50m. Rise, 19 feet. S F J '
MARTABAN COAST. — MOSCOS ISLANDS. 29
westward and S. Westward; but farther to the northward, the depths decrease to 12
fathoms at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues from the land, and at the distance of 10 leagues
from it, in lat. 16° N., there are only 7 or 7^ fathoms at low water.
THE MOSCOS ISLANDS extend in a chain parallel to the coast from lat. moscos
14° 28' N., to lat. 13° 47' N., and are distant from it 3 to 4 and 5 leagues, having a ^''*'"''-
safe channel inside, between them and the coast, with soundings mostly from 10 to 15
fathoms, deepening generally near the islands, and shoaling to 8, 7, and G fathoms near
the main. Between the southernmost and middle groups there are safe channels, and
these are the largest and highest of these islands ; the northern part of the chain is
composed of straggling islands of various sizes, with several rocks above water. A mile
and a half E. by S. from the northernmost isle there is a reef under water, and another
reef about 2 miles N.^E. from the same isle, M'ith a rock above water near the latter,
called the North Rock. Between this rock and the reef there is a channel with 17
to 19 fathoms water, and close to both these reefs the depths are 16 and 18 fathoms.
The North Ledge, a sunken reef, lies 6 miles off shore, in lat. 14° 30^' N., about 4
miles N. N. E. from the northernmost island ; and there is a safe channel, with depths
of 13 and 14 fathoms, about H miles wide, formed between the North Ledge and the
other reef to the S. Westward. Close to the North Ledge on the inside, there are 9
fatlioms water, gradually decreasing to 4^ or 5 fathoms, about 1^ or 2 miles off shore,
near the mouth of a river that bears E. N. Eastward from the Ledge. The southern
group of Moscos Islands is distant 3 leagues from the nearest shore, the islands are
steep, having 20 or 22 fathoms close to, on their western sides.
TAVOY, or TAVAY Point,* in lat. 13° 32' N., Ion. 98° 12' E., forms the west Tavoy Point.
side of Tavoy River's entrance. It is moderately high, bluff, covered with trees, and
may be easily known by the Cap, a small round bushy islet, bearing from it W. by S.,
distant about If miles. Inside of Tavoy Point, there is good anchorage over a soft
even bottom, and a large ship need not bring it to the southward of S.VV. by S.,
where she may anchor in 6 fathoms ; but a small ship of light draught may go in much Anchorage.
farther.
This place is convenient for wooding and watering;! the water is filled at a small watering
brook, a little way round to the northward of the point, and near a rocky islet, which ^^''"^'''
is not more than 10 or 12 yards from the shore. About 2 miles to the northward of the
watering place lies the mouth of a salt water creek, abounding with alligators; they
are so numerous, that none of the people belonging to ships should be permitted to
bathe either alongside or near the beach.
Ships proceeding to the anchorage under Point Tavoy to procure wood or water. Directions.
may, with a leading wind, steer towards the Cap and pass it at any convenient distance ;
the soundings from the offing decrease to 15 or 14 fathoms near to Cap Islet, and there
are 18 or 19 fathoms close to Tavoy Point, which depths continue until it bears nearly
N. N. E., when Reef Island, up the harbour, begins to open, and the depth will de-
crease to 10 or 9 fathoms in hauling round to the northward. When the Cap is shut
in with the point, there are 7 or 8 fathoms at the distance of a mile from the shore,
and when the point bears S. W. ^ S. or S.W. by S., anchor near it in fathoms at
* The kingdom of Tavoy is called Taway or Tawai by the Siamese. The province of Yeah is situated
between IMartaban and Tavoy.
f In the late war, it was much frequented by French privateers, when they were in want of these necessary
articles.
30
TAVOY RIVER.
Tides.
Tavov Town.
high water. The tides are not very regular;
high water about
10 hours on full and
directions for
the river
Capt. Corstcr-
phine's Direc-
tions.
Tides.
change of moon, and the rise is 17 or 18 feet : the velocity of the stream in the river is
about 3i knots on the springs.
Tavoy Town, in lat. 14° 5' N., Ion. 98° 13' E., stands on the east bank of the river,
about 9 leagues from the entrance, where extensive rice fields are cultivated in its
vicinity. An excellent survey of the river has been executed by Captain R. Moresby,
of the Bombay Marine, in 18'24, exhibiting numerous shoals and low islands, which
render tlie navigation of the river intricate, as there are various channels among them,
having in some places only 2 or 2| fathoms, but in many parts the depths are from
(j to 8, 10, and 12 fathoms.
If a ship round Tavoy Point with a strong southerly wind, it would be unpleasant
to anchor in the outer road under the point ; in such case, she may run into the river,
passing Reef Island on the east side at half a mile to 1 mile distant, then keep within
half a mile of the other islands which boimd the river on the west side, and the sound-
ings will not be less than 5 or 5^ fathoms in this track. After being 2 or 3 miles to
the northward of Reef Island, she may anchor close to the western shore, or she may
run farther up into 4 or 4J fathoms above Reef Island, where she will be well sheltered
to the northward of tlie third large island, where there is fresh water at a well. The
eastern shore of the river is fronted by a shoal flat that occupies nearly half the breadth
of the river, dry at low water spring tides in some places, towards which the depths
gradually decrease from the western side of the channel.
Captain Corstorphine, of the Company's ship Ernaad, gives the following directions
for proceeding up the river. Reef Island is high and remarkable ; steer to pass to the
eastward of it, not less than half a mile distance; Button Island is 2 miles farther up,
and may be passed pretty close, but not exceeding l^ miles' distance : from hence, the
channel continues close along the western shore, where is found the deepest water.
A rock, with 9 feet over it at low water springs, has lately been discovered, and may
be avoided to the eastward, by keeping the Button and Reef Island a little open, until
above the second bluff or rocky point beyond the Button. The best anchorage for
large ships is close to the uppermost bluff or rocky point: vessels drawing only 14 or
15 feet water may proceed 4 or 5 miles farther up and find good anchorage. The
tide rises about 14 feet during the springs in the S.W. monsoon; high water on full
and change of moon off the uppermost bluff point at 2^ hours.
31
TAjVASSERIM* or 3IERGUI ARCHIPELAGO, AND SEYER
ISLANDS, WITH THE COAST FROM MERGUI
TO JUNKSEYLON.
THE ARCHIPELAGO, or chain of islands fronting the coast of Tanasserim, was Tanasserim, or
formerly little known to Europeans, but lately these islands have been explored by J^'ergui Arehi-
Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, and the navigable channels pointed ''^''^°
out. The bank of soundings extends outside most of the islands, and although near
some of them the water is deep, yet their proximity may be known by the lead if
kept going in the night, and in passing through any of the channels, or inside the
islands, a good look-out will be necessary, as some undiscovered dangers may possibly
exist.
Tavoy Island extends from lat. 13° 14' to 12° 55' N., the nortli end bearing from Xavoy island.
the point of the same name about S. by E. |; E., distant It! miles ; it is of middling
height, about 2 miles in breadth and 6 leagues in length, stretching N. by W. and
S. by E., having a peak near the middle, and a smaller one near its south end. It is
the northernmost large island of that extensive chain which fronts the coast, generally
called the Mergui, or Tanasserim Archipelago. Near the south end of the island
there is a pagoda, and near it good fresh water.
Ships having occasion to sail between Tavoy River and JVIergui in the S.W. mon- Passage ue-
soon ought to depart from Tavoy Point, or from the anchorage under the north end \"Jve"^J°^
of Tavoy Island, so as to get across in one ebb tide, for the intervening coast is in that Mergiii.
season a dangerous lee shore, and if a ship were to meet with the flood tide, and the
wind fail between these places, she would be obliged to anchor in deep water, exposed
to a high sea, destitute of shelter. From Tavoy River the ebb sets along the coast to Tides.
the soutinvard nearly half-way to Tavoy Island, where it is met by the ebb from the
channel between the latter island and the main ; then, after uniting, it appears to set
out to seaward. The flood comes in from the sea between Tavoy Point and Tavoy
Island, separating into two branches, one running North and the other South, to
supply Tavoy and INIergui rivers.
There is a good harbour on the east side of Tavoy Island, on the north side of a pro- Port Owen.
jecting peninsula in lat. 13^ 5' N. ; it is sheltered to the northward and eastward by a
cluster of islands, and has a depth of water from 5 to 10 fathoms. It was surveyed
by iMr. Julian, of II. M.S. Satellite, under the direction of Captain Laws, who de-
scribed it as a safe and good harbour, having an abundant supply of good water and
wood. This harbour has received the name of Port Owen.
MERGUI, called Beit Myoo by the Burmese, in lat. 12° 27' N., Ion. 98^ 38' E., by Mergui.
Captain Ross, who surveyed this coast in 1828, is situated at the entrance of the prin-
cipal branch of Tanasserim River, and may probably become a port of considerable trade,
• Called Tannan by the Siamese, and Tannetliaiee by the natives.
32
TANASSERIM COAST. — MERGUI.
Passace to-
wards Mergiii
in the S W.
monsoon.
Position of
'I'anassei'im
Island.
I'assage to-
wards Mergui
in tlie N. E.
monsoon.
as it is now in tlie possession of the British Government ; for the country is fertile
and considered to be healthy, with a safe harbour and an excellent inland navigation,
well adapted for commerce.
Ships bound from the Coromandel coast or Ceylon to Mergui, in the S.W. mon-
soon, ought to pass through the channel between the south end of Little Andaman and
the Carnicobar Islands, or between the Little and Great Andamans, if they fall to
leeward of the former. Those which come from Bengal in the same season may pass
througli the channels on either side of the Cocos Islands, between tiiem and the north
end of Great Andaman, or between them and Preparis ; and after passing near Narcon-
dam, they should steer for Tanasserim Island, which is in lat. 1*2° 36' N., Ion. 97° 49' L.,
distant from Mergui about 18 leagues to the VV. N. Westward. The same island
should be seen by ships whicli pass to the southward of the Andamans. After leaving
Narcondam, soundings will soon be got in steering for the islands off Mergui when
they are aproached.
Ships bound from Bengal to Mergui during the whole of the N. E. monsoon may
pass through the channel formed between Alguada Reef and Preparis; then steer to
make Tavoy Island, or the Moscos Islands to the N.W. of Tavoy Point, if tiie wind
blow steadily from the northward ; they may then pass inside of Tavoy Island in pro-
ceeding towards Mergui, or to the westward of that island, betwixt the islets off it and
the Canisters, and afterwards betwixt it and Iron Island.
In the strength of the N. E. monsoon, ships from the Coromandel coast should also
endeavour to pass to the northward of the Andamans, and from thence take every
advantage to get to the eastward.
The islands composing the Mergui Archipelago are generally high, and may be seen
from 10 to 15 leagues ; the bank of soundings in most places extends a little way beyond
the outermost islands, by which the approach to them may be known in the night, if
the lead is kept going.
In coming from sea, Tanasserim Island, when first perceived, makes in several hills,
appearing like separate islands, which on a nearer view are found to join. To the
northward and southward of it, several islands appear of different sizes; of these, the
most remarkable is the Western Canister, in lat, 12° 41 i' N.,* Ion. 97° 46' E., a high
steep, small, round island, about 2 or 3 leagues to the ]N. Westward of Tanasserim, by
which it may be easily known. About 2 leagues N. E. from the Western Canister lies
Cabossa, in lat. 12° 48' N., a moderately high island, having a small islet or rock near
it on the north side, and near the Western Canister are other islets. In coming from
the southward, these islands may be easily known, as no others are seen to the north of
Cabossa, for it is the northernmost of this range.
A ship having made this latter island, may pass to the northward, or between
it and the Western Canister at discretion, then steer to the eastward in soundings from
30 to 35 fathoms ; as the tides set very irregularly amongst these islands, they require
attention ; off Cabossa it is high water about 8 hours on full and change of moon.
Having passed Cabossa, the Little Canister, a high, steep, round island, covered with
trees, will be seen directly to the eastward, distant about 8 leagues ; it resembles the
Western Canister, excepting that the north end of the latter slopes more gradually than
its southern one, and forms a kind of snout. The Little Canister is bold and steep,
may be passed on either side as convenient, but about 3 leagues S.W. by S. from it
Great Canister, there is said to he a rock even with the surface of the sea. The Great Canister, in lat.
* His Majesty's ship Pandora's observations place it a few miles farther North.
Passage
tlirough the
channels.
Position of
Canister
Islands and
Cabossa Island
TANASSERIM COAST. — MERGUI. 33
12° 50' N., a high irregular island of middling size, bears from the former N. } W.,
distant 2 leagues, and is also safe to approach.
Having passed the Little Canister, a ship ought to steer East from it, between the
islands oft' the south point of Tavoy Island and the north end of Iron Island, where
the channel is about 3 miles wide, and clear of danger ; but the bottom in it being
rocky, and the depths great, from 24 to 38 fathoms, with strong eddies at times, an-
choring here is unsafe. Farther out, with the Little Canister bearing W. N.W. 2
leagues, there are 35 fathoms gravel and mud, and between it and Cabossa Island
the depths are generally from 35 to 22 fathoms, where a ship might anchor occa-
sionally.
The north part of Iron Island terminates in a point with rocks above water, having
close to them from 25 to 30 fathoms water. From it bearing N. f W. lies the south
part of Tavoy Island chain, formed by several islets and rocks, also steep to. After
passing in mid-channel between these. Long Island will be seen bearing E. by S., ex-
tending nearly North and South on the edge of a rocky bank under water, that lines the
coast from Tavoy River to the entrance of Mergui River. The edge of this bank, or
Long Island, need not be approached, but when round the north point of Iron Island,
it is best to steer along its eastern side at 2 miles' distance, towards King Island Bay,
which bears to the S. S.E. ; the depths will be various from 36 to 17 fathoms, de-
creasing towards the bank that fronts the coast.
There is also a narrow channel between Iron Island and King Island, but destitute
of good anchorage, the water being deep, with strong tides running in eddies; if the
tide fail a ship in steering from Cabossa towards this channel, she should anchor as
near to Iron Island as convenient, until the first of next Hood ; in entering the channel,
she must keep nearest to Iron Island until past the islets and rocks that stretch out
from King Island, the outermost islet being very low and surrounded by rocks. Al-
though this channel might be pursued with a steady commanding breeze, that to the
northward of Iron Island ought to be preferred at all times.
KING ISLAND BAY, formed between the island of this name and Plantain King island
Island, which are two large islands, that bound the west side of the channel leading to ^''''■
Mergui River, is a place of shelter for ships ; but in entering it care is requisite to avoid
the Ly's Shoal, on which the French ship, Le Ly's, touched in 1724. It bears
N. by E. f E. about 1| or 1^ miles from the east point of King Island, which is the
north point of the bay, and it is a reef of rocks extending about a quarter of a mile
nearly N.W. and S. E., with 19 feet on the shoalest part at high water, and only 9 feet
at low water. When on it, the northern point, or extreme of King Island, and a small
islet were in one, and Panella Island on with the highest part of the N.W. point of
Plantain Island, and the northernmost of the small islands betwixt Iron and King
Islands was open about a sail's breadth from the north point of the latter. Near this
shoal on the north side, the depths are 7, 10, and 15 fathoms in going from it ; pro-
ceeding from it towards the point of King Island, 7, 10, and 12 fathoms ; and towards
Plantain Island, 7 to 10, and 16 fathoms rocky ground, about a cable's length off
Panella, which is a small islet upon a sand bank with some trees on it, situated a little
way from the N.W. point of Plantain Island, and appears as part of it when seen at a
distance. To the eastward, almost joining to the islet, there is another sand-bank ;
and a reef of rocks stretches to the S.W. and Westward, part of it only visible at low
water.
To enter King Island Bay, a ship must keep the N. E. side of King Island a league
VOL. II. F
34 TANASSERIM COAST. — MERGUI.
distant, by steering to the eastward until the bay is open, and two small islands at the
bottom of it are visible ; she may then enter, leaving the Ly's Shoal on the starboard,
and Fanella Islet on the larboard hand, tailing care to avoid the reef of" rocivs that pro-
jects to the S.W. of the latter, for the sea seldom breaks on it, and she may be horsed
towards the rocks by tlie turn of the ti(h>s ; l)iit tlie channel between the Ly's Shoal
and these rocks is 2 miles wide, and with proper care is safe.
\\ hen clear of the Ly's Shoal, she ninst steer westward into the bay, and anchor
nnder King Island, opposite a small bay, into which runs a stream of excellent water,
with tlie i\. E. point of the island PSorth or J\. by W. 1^ miles, the N.W. point of
Plantain Island E. | S., and Long Island N. by E. ^ E.
The bay, to the soutinvard of the ancliorage, is shoal, and tlie small creek that
Tides. separates Plantain and King Islands is only passable in country boats. The tide
rises abont 16 feet, and it is higii water about 10 hours on full and change of moon.
If by a change of wind or tide a ship is ol)liged to enter King Island Bay by the
channel between the JN. E. part of that island and Ly's Shoal, which is about three-
quarters of a mile wide, she must keep witliin half or three-quarters of a mile of the
shore, before she begins to ap|)roach the N.E. point of the island, taking care not to
open the bay until she is within that distance of the shore ; for if steering in, with the
point and small islet at the bottom of the bay in one, she would run directly upon tiie
shoal.
In going out of the bay, the best track is to keep raid-channel between the N. E.
point of King Island and Panella Islet, w ithout borrowing to the westward until past
the siioal, which will be known when the second islet or rock between King Island
and Iron Island is opened with the north end of the former.
Proceeding out by the Little Passage, a ship must steer along King Island, rounding
the point that forms the bay about half a mile distance.
King Island, like most of the others, is inhabited, and affords plenty of large straight
timber, fit for masts, and several parts of ship-building : the island is infested by tigers
and snakes.
Meigui Road. MERGUI ANCHORAGE, off the entrance of the river, is about 5 leagues to the
south-eastward of King Island Bay ; a ship being abreast the latter place, and bound
to the anchorage at Mergui, should pass the N. E. point of Plantain Island, at from 1
to 2 miles' distance, then in mid-channel, with the Little Canister kept open of the
south point of Iron Island, and almost shut in by the north point of Plantain Island :
the soundings will decrease, but not always regularly, from 15 to 13, 12, 9, and 8 fa-
thoms. The best anchorage for large ships is in 6^ or (i fathoms at low water, with
the north point of Plantain Island on witli the south part of the Little Canister, tlie south
point of Iron Island N.W., open about 10° from the Little Canister, the northernmost
part of Madramacan Island, which forms the S.W. side of the river's entrance, S. .3° E.,
distant 3 or 4 miles, and the point on the east side of the entrance S. by E. High
Tides. water about 1 1^ hours at full and change of moon ; the rise of tide is 19 or 20 feet, and
the velocity about 3^ knots on the springs.
The distance is about 2 leagues from the road to the town of Mergui ; vessels of
moderate size, by taking pilots, can go over the bar into the river, and anchor ofl'the
town in 5 fathoms water. Elejjhants' teetii, wax, wood oil, and other articles, are
exported from hence in ships belonging to merchants that reside here, wiio in general
are natives of Hindoostan. Water may be had in great plenty from a run on Madra-
macan Island, also on Plantain Island, and in King Island Bay.
TANASSERIM COAST. — MERGUI. 35
In Mergni Harbour the tides are less stroiif^- than they are even inTavoy River, and Tides.
rise from 18 to •22 feet durini^ the springs ; iiigh water about IH or 12 hours on full
and change of moon at tiie town. This harbour is very safe, and will contain many Mergni Hai-
vessels ; tlie following directions for sailing into it are given by Captain Bresley. ''°"'^'
"After reaching the anchorage of Mergui Road, according to the instructions given in Capt. Bresieys
Horsburgh's ' Sailing Directory,' the two nortliernmost beacons will be seen to the east-
ward, the easternmost of which is on a spit of sand extending from the south point of
the north side of Goulpia River, and is placed in 1,^ fathoms at low water.* The west-
ernmost beacon is on tiie north end of Madiamacan sand, placed in the same depth of
water, and the proper course to follow is to keep in mid-channel between tiie beacons,
and steer for the south end of the trees on the eastern shore, which are easily distin-
guished, appearing like a point of land. When abreast of those trees, you will be
nearly opposite the middle Madramacan beacon placed on the eastern extremity of the
sand of this name, which dries at fifty yards' distance to the westward. This beacon
must be left to the westward, keeping in mid-channel between it and the sand to the
eastward, the soundings will be 4 and 3|^ fathoms. The next beacon is on the south
end of Madramacan sand in one fathom at low water, and may be passed at the same
distance as the middle beacon, then edge over a little towards Madramacan, to avoid a
spit of sand that projects from the eastern shore, nearly abreast of a small creek, which
having passed, keep at any convenient distance, and run up abreast the government
■wharf, wliere tlie Ijest anchorage is in mid-channel, between the town of Mergui and
Madramacan, in 3^ or 4 fathoms at low water."
The best time for a vessel drawing above 13 feet water to weigh anciior from the
road is at half-flood, when she will have sufficient water to run witli to Mergui ; but
she ougi)t to have a favourable wind, as the channel is too confined in some parts to
admit of tacking.
In sailing from the road, a ship should observe the same marks as in entering, that Leaving Met-
is, to keep the Little Canister just open from the north point of Plantain Island, and ^"' ^°"'''
pass the point at H or 2 miles' distance, then keep the Little Canister a little open with
the south point of Iron Island ; and when abreast of King Island Bay, she should steer
to pass to the northward of Iron Island.
To avoid the dangers on both sides the channel, when sailing to or from Mergui clearing tiie
Road with a contrary wind, a ship may, from the entrance of King Island Bay to the dangers.
small island about half-way from thence to Mergui, stand to the nortliward till the
south point of Iron Island is on with the centre of the Little Canister, and to the south-
ward, until within a mile, or rather less, of Plantain Island. From tiie small island
mentioned, to Mergui Road, siie may stand to the northward until the south part of
Iron Island nearly touches the Little Canister; but it is ]>rudent to keep them a little
open, to avoid tin; edge of the dangerous bank that fronts the coast. In stand-
ing to the southward, the north point of Plantain Island must be kept at least a ship's
breadth open with the south point of Iron Island, to avoid a bank which lines the
south side of the channel, from the Island Madramacan to tlie eastern jiart of Plantain
Island.
Ships being off Point Tavoy or the Moscos Islands with a northerly wind, should steer inner Channel.
for the north end of Tavoy Island, in which track they will iiave various deptiis from 20
to 15 or 13 fathoms usually over a mud bottom, until near that part of the island : they
ouglit then to proceed by the inner channel on the east side of Tavoy Island, keeping
* The beacons are crowned with bamboo wicker-work, white-washed, and arc placed in sandy ground, liable
to be washed away ; buoys are, therefore, kept ready to i-cplace tlieni.
F 2
36
TANASSEBIM COAST. — MERGUI.
nearer to the islets that lie contiguous to it than to the extensive rocky bank that fronts
the main, having on the edge of it only 1^ or 2 fathoms, particularly opposite the eastern-
most part of Tavoy Island, where the cliannel is about 4 miles vvide, with soundings
of 10 to 16 fathoms irregular, near the islets at the east side of Tavoy ; but the depths
throughout this channel decrease gradually to 5, 4, and 3^ fathoms towards the edge
of the bank that fronts the main. There is a small island, called the Bank Canister,
not far from the shore bank, and opposite to the southern part of Tavoy Island ; some
other islands with reefs lie on the edge of it farther to the S. Eastward, then Long
Island, formerly mentioned, with other islets and reefs between it and the mouth of
Mergui River.
Betwixt the projecting eastern part of Tavoy Island, and the group of Isles on the
north side of it, and opposite to the highest north peak, there is formed a bay or
harbour having depths of 8 and 7 fathoms, to 4 fathoms in its southern curvature near
the shore.
Passage from
Mergui in
either mon-
soon.
DEPARTING from MERGUI in the N.E. monsoon, ships ought to pass through
some of the channels between the north end of the Great Andaman and Alguada Reef,
whether bound to Bengal or the Coromandel coast, and conform to the directions
already given for sailing from Rangoon Bar in this monsoon ; but if February is com-
menced, those bound to the Coromandel coast ought to proceed by the channel to the
southward of the Little Andaman, and make sure to fall in with the land to the south-
ward of their port, for southerly winds then begin to prevail, with a current setting
along the coast to the northward.
Ships bound to Achen, or Malacca Strait, after rounding the outermost islands of
the Archipelago, may, in the former case, steer direct for the Golden Mount; and if
boimd to Malacca Strait, they may steer for the Seyer Islands, or the south end of
Junkseylon, or direct for the Nicobars, if bound there.
If a ship leave Mergui in the S.W. monsoon, she should take every advantage to
work to the westward clear of the islands, and pass through the Cocos or Preparis
channel, if bound to Bengal. She must stand to the southward when she can clear
the islands, if bound to Malacca Strait, Achen, or the Coromandel coast, and follow
the directions given for sailing from Rangoon Bar in the S.W. monsoon. If a shijj find
difficulty in getting to the westward of the islands, she might venture to pass inside the
principal groups, between them and the main, where a continued channel extends to
Junkseylon, inside the Tanasserim, Aladin, and Seyer Islands, with various soundings
from 5 or 6, to 20 fathoms. There is good anchorage under many of the islands, and
it is best to keep nearer to them than to the main, but attention to the lead and a good
look-out will be proper.*
Captain Corstorphine observes, that ships departing from Tavoy or Mergui during
the S.W. monsoon, are liable to experience considerable difficulty in obtaining an
offing ; a favourable opportunity ought, therefore, to be embraced in sailing from
either of these places ; and if the weather become tempestuous, it will be prudent to
work to windward, with the anchorage of Tavoy Point or that under Tavoy Island
open, until sufficient offing is made to be enabled to weather the islands of the Mergui
Archipelago, if bound to the southward; or of reaching the coast of Ava to the west-
ward of Rangoon River, if bound to the northward.
The same navigator left Mergui in the Ernaad, August 8th, 1827, bound to Madras,
* Captain Ross's Survey of these islands, from Tavoy to Junkseylon, in three sheets, sold by iMessrs. Allen
and Co., Leadenhall Street, ought to be in the possession of those who have occasion to navigate among them.
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO. 37
passed close to Iron Island, between it and Tavoy Island, on the following day, and The Emaad's
then between the Canisters. On the 14th, passed to the eastward of Narcondam Mau'ral'"
Island ; saw the Golden Mountain on the 21st, bearing S.W. by S. ; on the 23rd,
passed between Pulo Malora and the coast, and at 8 p.m., passed the north end of
Piilo Brasse. From hence, steering W. by N. and W. by N. ^ N., with the wind at
S.W., at 4 P.M. 24th, saw the low south extreme of the Great Nicobar Island bearing
N. N.W. ; and at 8 p.m., when it bore about North 8 or 9 miles distant, sounded in
32 fathoms, white sand and coral. The wind was mostly between S. S.W. and
W. S.W. in crossing the bay, with which stood usually on the larboard tacli, except-
ing about 2^ days stood to the southward, in order to preserve the windward position,
and on the 7th September arrived at Madras.
THE GREAT TORRES are the westernmost islands of the Archipelago; they Torres islands.
are two contiguous high islands lying East and West of each other, with some small
islets near them. The centre of the western island is in lat. 11° 48' N., Ion. 97° 28' E.
Little Torres Islands, about 3 or 4 leagues S. by E. from Great Torres, are a group
of three or four small straggling isles.
Black Rock lies in lat. 11° 23' N., about 9 leagues S. S. E. from the westernmost Black and
or Great Torres Island, about 6 leagues distant from the nearest islets to the east- ^^g^'s'"^
ward ; and another rock, called Nearchus Rock, lies in lat. 11° 42^' N., Ion. 97° 54'
E., 3 leagues to the westward of Bentinck Island ; it is covered at high water, with
depths close around it of 35 to 31 fathoms.
The following account of the Archipelago is given by Captain Ross as an accom-
paniment to his chart.
The islands of the Mergui Archipelago extend from Tavoy Island, in lat. 13° 13', to Captain rosss
the Sayer Islands, in lat. 8° 30' N., and in some parts lie 60 miles off the main land. ArTipliaga^
These islands are usually high, covered with large trees, thick underwood, difficult to
penetrate, and scarcely an acre of level ground on any one island fit for cultivation,
which may account for their having no inhabitants.
Malays, and a few Chinese from about Penang, visit the Archipelago annually, to
collect edible birds' nests, found more or less in almost every little rocky island.
Trepang, Biche de Mer, or Sea Slug, may also be an object of search, but it must be
scarce, there being no extensive coral shoals. The proas from Penang and the
Straits may be nearly 100; they are too small to carry cannon, and they avoided us,
which shyness might arise from their trespassing on the rights of those who farm the
collection from Government.
On the beaches of several islands, the marks of the deer and hog were seen, also a
foot print, said to be the tiger's, but none of these animals were met with ; on St.
Matthew Island, marks of the elephant or tapir were seen.
The islands rest on a rocky basis, and on many of the rocks wholesome oysters
abound ; also good fish, although cat-fish only were caught, almost daily, sufficient for
a fresh meal.
There are many small barren rocks amongst the islands of the Archipelago, usually
with deep water near them, but few hidden dangers were found.
The northerly, or fair weather monsoon, commences on this coast about the middle winds and
of October, at which time the wind hangs much at East, occasionally blowing fresh.
In December, about noon, the sea breeze sets in from IV.W., veering to North about
sun-set, and by midnight the wind is from E. N. E.or East, at times blowing strong
between sunset and 11 a.m.: therefore, by keeping near the islands, a ship will get
Weather.
38
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO.
Tides.
I'resli water.
Passage into
Bentinck Har-
bour.
rapidly to the northward, whereas, in the offing-, the wind is chiefly from N. N. E. to
J\.N.\\'. In March, tlie sea winds set in from the sonthward of \>'est, with light
winds and calms in tlie oHing-; on two occasions, in February and March, we made
but 8 or 10 miles per day, from very light weather experienced between Cabosa and
JNegrais, witii a drain of current to the southward. In April, the afternoon becomes
squally witii the wind at East, and much thunder and lightning auiongst the islands,
but the southerly or rainy monsoon does not set in until about the middle of May,
after whicli the Archipelago is subject to very squally weather for successive days and
a deluge of rain; judging, however, of the weather by the Nearchus's log-book, which
vessel was the whole rainy monsoon of 1818 amongst the islands, it appears tliat a
vessel may easily l)eat to the southward within the islands, as the Nearchiis frequently
experienced the wind from S. E. and had several successive days of tine weather.
On the northern part of the coast, between Tavoy and Martaban Rivers, the tide is
much stronger than it is to the southward in the Archipelago. About Martaban its
velocity on the springs is frequently 7 knots per hour, making it dangerous for a vessel
to approach that part of the coast without good ground tackling. In the S.W. mon-
soon, when blowing strong on the springs, shelter may be taken in safe anchorage
behind Calagouk Island until the weather becomes moderate. In the Archipelago the
rise and fall of spring tides is from 1.3 to 15 feet, and the greatest velocity experienced
was 3 knots per hour, depending on the direction of the channels ; high water on full
and change of moon,
from 10 to 11 hours amongst tiie islands. In the offing the flood
sets from the westward ; the direction of the stream within the islands is governed by
the channels, but if broad and clear, the ebb runs from East and the flood from West.
The influence of the tides w ill probably not be felt above 4 or 5 leagues from the land,
and if within the influence of regular tides, the lines of strong ripplings common on
this coast are not felt. At a little distance westward of the islands and southward
about .Junkseylon, in calm weather during the N.E. monsoon, those strong ripplings
extend in long lines of direction parallel to the coast, and move past a vessel towards
the land at the rate of 7 or 8 miles per hour, without her being carried along with
them. They frequently break high, are dangerous for small boats and alarming to
strangers: they come in quick succession on the flood tide inshore, and disappear on
the ebb.
In the fair season, when no rain falls for several months, many of the mountain
streams become dry, and fresh water is not easily procured. Hastings Harbour affiards
but a small supply at such times. At the following places fresh water has been ob-
tained in the driest part of the season, viz, at two stations on the east side of Tavoy
Island; one just within the small group of islands near the north extreme, the other
near a small pagoda abreast of a small island near the south extreme. In King Island
Bay, on the western shore, about 2 miles from the « est point of the entrance. On the
west side of Domel, at some sandy beaches well w ithin the straits which divide Domel
and Bentinck Island. On the west side of Sullivan Island, at beaches nearly under
the highest hill of that ])art, there is a j)lentiful stream in the bay, having a large white
rock in front ; this is the most convenient watering place for a passing vessel in the
N. E. monsoon, being easy of access, with good anchorage. On the east side of St.
Matthew Island, in a bay to the S.W. of the Dolphins JNose ; and on the east side
of Calagouk Island, there is a well of good water near the highest hummock.
If a ship be to the southward of Torres Islands, and in want of shelter within the
Archipelago, she may pass near to the small group of three islands situated 10 miles
S.S. E. A E. of the Great Western Torres. The southernmost of the small islands is
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO. 39
in lat. 11°37|^'N., visible at 4 or 5 leagues' distance ; by steering East from it 22
miles, a small group of four rocky islands will then be about 5 or fJ miles to tlie south-
ward of you, and IVearchus Kock distant about 5 miles to the northward : this rock is
nearly covered at high water, but always shews breakers : the south extreme of Ben-
tinck Island will bear al)Out East from you, distant 4 leagues. Steer to pass aljout
3 miles to the southward of this island in order to avoid some small isles near it, and a
reef of rocks, always dry, distant about 2^ miles to the southward of the point ; in this
run the deptli will be from 45 to 23 fathoms. When abreast of Bentinck Island, J)omel,
which is iiigh mountainous land, will bear East from you, and a group of islands named
the Sisters will bear to the southward, distant about 10 miles; steer up the strait to
the northward for the South Passage Island, 8^ miles distant from the S. E. point of
Bentinck Island, and anchor to the northward of it in 7 or H fathoms in Bentinck
Harbour, where you will be land-locked and secure from all swell in good holding
ground, mud and sand. Tlie northern passage out of the harbour is l)etween West
Passage Island and a small islet crowned with a tuft of trees, named Cap and Eeather.
This passage is 2 miles wide, having the greatest depth of water, 5 and (i fathoms,
near the Passage Island, decreasing to 3f fathoms near the Cap and Feather.
If needful to communicate with Mergui, steer to the northward and pa.ss on the
west side of Christmas Islands, distant 10 miles from the Cap and Eeather, then steer
E. N. E. towards two high peaked islands, where you may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms
to the N. W. of these, and Mergui will be about leagues to the IN. E. of your
anchorage.
To jiroceed from Bentinck Harbour to the southward, pass between the Sisters and Passage tRnn
Bushl)y Island, tiien between the Father and Son and Owen Island, into Forrest Jou"""^'^ "'"'
Straits: there are no invisible dangers in this route, but some small rocky islands lie
on the east side of the Sisters, and several dry rocks about l^ miles to the northward
of tlie Son ; yet the soundings in some parts are irregular, and the bottom cliangeable
from mud and sand to shells and coral when tliere are overfalls, but never less than .9
fatiioms was got in mid-channel after passing to the southward of Bushby Island.
F^orrest Passage, in lat. 11° N., is the best leading into the Archipelago, and if ap- Forrest Pas-
proached on that parallel, the Island Clara will be the first land seen, which is high, ^*se.
and iiaving small peaks, the southern one very sharp, like a sugar-loaf. Distant about
]\ miles off the northern part of Clara there is a small isle and a rock, which pass
about a mile to the northward, and steer towards the north point of Sullivan Island,
distant 4 leagues to the eastward. The Sisters, situated about 7 leagues to the north-
ward of Clara, will be seen, also the Father and Son, two high rocky islands, of barren
appearance, lying about 4 leagues N. N.W. of Sullivan Island : steer to pass oft" the
north end of Sullivan Island about Mj miles; nearer to it is uneven ground with strong
eddies; if blowing strong from S.\\ ., haid to the southward to pass between Two Hill
and Olive Island on the west side, wiiich are close to Sullivan Island, and High
Island on the otlier side, which is ry miles to the eastward of them. In this route tlie
depth is about 40 fathoms .'5 leagues to tiie westward of Clara and :}() fathoms wlien
North of it, to 18 or 20 fatiioms oft' the north end of Sullivan Island, where there are
occasional overfalls. If merely seeking shelter, you will lind a very smootii anciiorage
after passing a litle way to the S. E. of Olive Island, in 0, 7, or 8 fathoms.
In F^orrest Passage, in the N. E. monsoon, it sometimes blows so strong that a ship
will be unable to gain ground.
Imoui the north part of Sullivan Island to the lower part of St. Matthew Island,
Forrest Strait is land-locked and secure against any sea of consequence.
o
40 TANASSERIM OR MKRGUI ARCHIPELAGO.
In passing- to the southward from the N. E. part of Sullivan Island, observe that
the llalf-iMoon Shoal, covered at iiigh water, lies 3 miles to the nortinvard of the
eastern j)oint of Sullivan Island and a little more than half a mile oH' shore, bein
steep to, with 8 or 9 fathoms near it at low water. The eastern extreme of the Dol
piiin Islands and east extreme of Olive Island in one is a close mark to clear the N. E.
part of the shoal ; and the eastern point of Sullivan Island touching IJold Promontory
of the same island, ." miles further South, leads iialf a mile clear to the eastward of the
shoal. A small rocky reef, covered at balf-tlood, lies on the east side of the sitrait
fronting an oi)ening between the islands, and it lies 7 miles nearly E. i)y S. from the
point or foreland of Sullivan Island, and .3 miles to the southward of a high barren
rock on the eastern shore : near this reef the depth is 3 fathoms at low water spring
tides.
The channel to the eastward of the islands called Gregory Islands in the chart is pre-
ferable, as the depths are moderate for anchorage, with good holding ground ; and the
tides run North and South, al)uut H miles per hour on the springs.
The bottom in the channel to the westward of the Gregory Islands is uneven, with
patches of coral, and about a mile from the east side of Steep Island there is a rocky
slioal, nearly dry at low water ; the extreme of East Foreland and Bold Piomontory to
the soutiiward of it in one is nearly upon its N. E. edge.
Six small islands lie in mid-strait between Sullivan Island and the eastern shore.
Crichton Island, the northernmost, has a rocky reef projecting to the northward and
to the south-west, with 14 fathoms water near its eastern side. The other five islands,
called (iregory Islands, are very rocky around, particularly the four nearest to Crichton
Island.
All the country boats passing near the shore to the eastward of the Gregorys affords
cause to believe it to be a part of the continent.
Several small brigs, of easy draft of water, and junks, trade between Penang, Mer-
gui, and Tavoy ; their route is usually through Forrest Strait, to the northward, passing
to the eastward of Owen Island ; when they get abreast the middle of Domel,
the passage becomes very shallow, being nearly dry all across, with a narrow creek
through the sand, which creek lies on the west side of the channel near the Domel
shore.
Another clear and safe entrance into the southern part of the Archipelago, for ships
going to Hastings Harbour, is in lat. 10° 15' N. by passing to the southward of the
Southern Twin, and leaving Horsburgh Island in lat. 10° 11^' IV. to the southward, and
Loughborough large group of islands to the northward : this channel is quite safe,
nearly 6 miles wide in the narrowest part between Cavern Island and the northern
islands of the St. Andrew group ; the course is about East, and a ship may pass between
St. Luke and Russel Islands, to enter Hastings Harbour.
Hastinps Hastings Harbour is very smooth and secure during both monsoons, but care is re-
iiarbour. quired in entering by the Eastern Channel, for a dangerous patch of rocks lies alyouta
third channel over from St. Matthew Island towards the S.W. point of Hastings Is-
land ; also a rocky reef off the south point of Hastings Island, for which the lead gives
no warning. The Investigator was left dry on the latter, on the day of full moon in
Marcli, and obliged to be lightened, by taking out her guns and starting the water,
before she floated on the next tide.
The INearchus and Minto surveying vessels passed through the Eastern Channel
often, and never discovered these reefs; neither in boats frequently, nor in working in
and out of the channel in the Investigator, was the small reef discovered near St. Mat-
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO. 41
thew's, until afterwards in that vessel two casts of the lead were got on it, in 2f fa-
thoms, and it was then examined in the hoats. The surveying vessels travei-sed all
over Hastings Harbour, and discovered no other dangers.
The strait abreast of Hastings Harbour becomes contracted by a shoal bank extend-
ing from the islands on the eastern shore ; in passing thereabouts keep nearest to
St. Matthew.
PINE TREE ISLAND, in lat. 10'' -20' N., has a dangerous reef on its west and Pine Tree
S.W. sides, projecting about a mile; on the west side of Cat Island, which is the next '*'""'*•
to the northward, there are several rocks ; about 5 miles S. E. from Pine Tree Island
lie the Five Islands, surrounded by a reef, and 2 miles to the westward of these, the
island South-east Hump is situated. The soundings inside, and amonj;st the islands
lying between St. Susannah and St. Matthew, are in general from t) to 20 fathoms, but
not always regular.
ST. MATTHEW, or ELEPHANT ISLAND, about 5^ leagues in length, orfrom st.Matii,e>v
lat. 10° 3' N., extending S.W. by S. to 9° 49' N., is about 5 or (J leagues from the con- i*'""''-
tinent, and may be seen at a great distance, the highest peak in tlie middle of the is-
land being nearly 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is visible 18 leagues. At
the north part of the island is Hastings Hakp.our, called also Gages Harbour, being Hayings
a spacious bay formed by the shores of St. Matthew and St. Luke Islands on the South "'"■^''"'•
and West, having Hastings Island on the N. E. It has soft bottom, from 5 to 10 and
11 fathoms, and is sheltered from all winds by the surrounding islands. Captain Low,
of the Madras army, celebrated for his scientific pursuits, and knowledge of the lan-
guage and character of the Siamese and adjacent nations, touched here in 1825; he
describes it as a very spacious harbour, capable of containing the largest navy in the
world. Hastings Harbour has lately been surveyed by Captain Ross, the Company's
Marine Surveyor, who makes the centre of the harbour in lat. 10°(i'N. There are
two channels into the harbour; the northern one to the westwaril of Hastings Island
being the l)est; for in the eastern channel lormed between the south point of Hastings
Island and tiie N. E. point of St. Matthew there is a 2 fathoms rock, rather more than
mid-channel towards the latter, and a coial shoal distant 1 mile, about E. by S. from
the south point of Hastings Island, which shoal bears N. 1° E. (iruc) from the
"White Rock that fronts Fish Harbour. The tide in Hastings Harbour is very Tides,
weak ; high water at 10 hours -10 n)inntes on fidl and change of tlie moon, and
the rise is 1.3 or 14 feet. At the S.W. angle of the harbour, between the south point
of St. Luke Island and the north-west |)art of St. Matthew Island, there is said to be
a narrow passage or inlet from seaward, called Rose Passage, about two-tenths of a
mile broad, which might be used by a ship going out of the harbour in the N. E. mon-
soon, when the water is smooth and clear, and the wind fair. The shores appear to be
lined with rocks oii botli sides. Hastings Islands abound with wild hogs, pigeons, and
fresh water, when the season is not very dry.
Fish Harbour lies between the N. E. point and the East point (called the Dolphin's Fish Hiiriour.
Nose) of St. Matthew Island, aHording shelter for boats or small vessels. On either
side the A\ hile Rock, o(l' the entrance of tliis little harbour, there is a safe passage ; but
an extensive Hat of sand and mud fronts the main in this part, with numerous small low
islands.
THI-2 ST. ANDREW GROUP, consisting of several islands, e.xtends from lat. st. Andrew
VOL. II. G ^'°"''-
42 TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO.
10° V to 10° 12^' N., the westernmost of which is 6 leagues to the westward of St.
Luke Ifeland, having a safe channel, called Investigator Channel, on the north side of
the group, also a safe channel, betwixt the eastern side of the group and isles tiiat lie
close to the west side of St. Luke Island. To the northward of the St. Andrew Group
there is another extensive group of islands, the westernmost of which is in lat. 10° 28' N.,
Ion. 97°43' E., Bird-nest Point, the south extremity of this group, being in lat. 10° I8'N.,
Ion. 98° I'E. Russel Island, about 2 leagues to the northward of the north entrance
of Hastings Harbour, is high, with a reef oft" its N.W. end, and some small isles conti-
guous, with others in tiie harbour's entrance, and adjacent to Hastings Island on the
outside there are several other islands.
On the continent, opposite the north end of St. Matthew, there is a river and a group
of islands near the shore; several other rivers fall into the sea between it and Mergui,
and the whole of the main is generally of moderate height. About the middle of the
eastern coast of St. Matthew there is a bay directly under the high land, formed by a
point of land on the north side, and Tongue Island to the southward ; here is a cascade
of fresh water, and good anchorage on the north side of the island in 8 or 10 fathoms.*
To the southward of St. Matthew, a group of islands and rocks extends to the distance
of 18 miles in a S.W. by S. direction, having 17 and 18 fathoms water near them, de-
creasing regularly towards the islands near the continent, between which and the
group just mentioned there is a safe channel 10 or 12 miles wide; they are mostly
high and safe to approach on the outside, but there are some reefs in the centre of
the group, with rocks above water in some places, particularly to the eastward and
southward of the south point of St. Matthew, and between Auriols and Christie
Island.
The principal island of the group. South of St. Matthew, is Davis Island, lying 4
miles W. S.W. from its south point; it is about 10 miles in circumference, and may be
seen at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues. There are three small islands to the westward
of Davis Island, and between 5 and 9 miles distant from it : North Rocky Island, in lat.
9°52i' N. ; Western Rocky Island, in lat. 9° 51' N. ; and the Haycock, in lat. 9° 40' N.
Auriols Island, the S. Easternmost of the group, is in lat. 9° 38' N. ; and Christie Island,
the southernmost, is in lat. 9° 36' N., and in Ion. 98° 0' E., having an islet near its south
point surrounded by a reef; it is 7^ miles \V. by S. from Auriols Island. The Haycock
lies 4^ miles W. N.W. from Christie Island. These islands are usually known by the
name of Aladin Islands.
Hoe i5ank. ROE BANK was discovercd by Captain Roe, in the ship Henry, bound from
Prince of Wales Island to Calcutta, July 3Ist, 1822, at 5 p.m. Rocks were seen under
the ship's bottom, had 8^ fathoms; kept sounding, and had 10, 12, 15, and 20 fathoms,
then no ground with 80 fathoms line. By this day's observation, made the bank in
lat. 9° 59' N., Ion. 96° 50' E., by account. Although in the latitude of the high island
St. Matthew, and the evening clear, no land could be seen from the mast-head : the
ship was half an hour in passing over the bank, going at the rate of 2 miles per hour,
which makes it about a mile in extent North and South.
Captain Roe, in command of the transport ship Robarts, bound from Rangoon to
Madras, again got upon this bank, July 25th, 1825, at 7 a.m. ; steering S. S.W. about
3 miles per hour, saw rocks under the bottom, put the helm down, and had ground
* Tlie Princess Royal filled up her water at the Sandy Bay on the north end of the island, where they found
wild plantains, plenty of wild yams, and ground rattans of large size. This ship did not anchor, but stood off
and on, while watering.
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO.
43
10 fathoms, when in stays ; in standing again to the northward to get ofF the bank,
had 10 fathoms, then no ground with the hand-lead, and by the time the deep-sea lead
was ready, the ship was in deep water. From this day's observation, made the north- Position.
em edge of the bank in lat. 10° 2' N., Ion. 96° 4-5' E., by chronometer, and it bears
West about 75 miles from the southernmost islands of St. Andrew Group.
As this bank is in the track of ships passing between Bengal and the Strait of Ma-
lacca, or other eastern ports, it seems strange that it remained so long undiscovered ;
and although 8|^ fathoms was the least water found on it, there may probably be rather less
on some patches, as the bank was not fully explored ; probably no part of it is dangerous.
CHANCE ISLAND, in lat. 9° 22' to 9° 27' N., Ion. (the peak) 97° 5:V E., and dis- AiadmisUnds
tant 3|- leagues to the S. S.W. of Christie Island, has a high peak that may be seen 10
or 12 leagues, with some islets contiguous, and rocks above water near its S. E. point :
this may be considered as one of the Aladin Islands, although there is a safe channel,
about 8 miles wide, between it and the other islands that form the southernmost limit
of the group as above described.
Nearly in a line, about mid-way between Chance Island and the Sayers, lies Middle
Island, by itself, in lat. 9° 3' N.; it is high, and may be seen 8 or 9 leagues, and the
channel between it and Chance Island has soundings of 32 to 46 fathoms, and is 6
leagues wide.
Perforated Island, in lat. 8° 49^' N., situated 4| leagues South from Middle Island, Perforated
and 4 leagues N. E. from the northernmost of the Sayer Islands, is another detached ^^''^"''•
island, thus named* by Capt. David Inverarity, on account of a hole that passes through
it. Captain Inverarity, in the ship Chance, worked from Junkseylon, inside the Sayers,
Perforated, and Middle Islands, and on the west side of the other groups of the Archi-
pelago as far as Torres Islands, in his passage from China to Rangoon. Perforated
Island has soundings about 2 miles inside, from 40 to 50 fathoms, 2 leagues E. N.E.
33 fathoms, and 5 miles S. by E. from it 35 fathoms, to the N. E. of the Great Sayer.
The channel betwixt these islands and the main is 7 or 8 leagues wide, having re-
gular soundings from 20 fathoms ofi' the northernmost Aladin, where it is only 4 leagues
wide, to 12, 10, and 8 fathoms near the numerous islands and banks contiguous to the
coast, w hich abreast the Aladin group forms a large bay, fronted by a cliain of islands
and rocks. Opposite the north end of St. Matthew commences the chain of islands,
already mentioned, that lines the coast, and extends about S. by W. to lat. 9° 25' N.
The largest islands of this chain are Saddle Island, in lat. 9° 49' N., about 4^ miles in
extent, and Delisle Island, in lat. 9° 43' N. : they are separated from each other by an
opening If miles wide, having a 2 fatlioms shoal in it, with anchorage of 7 to 4 fathoms
inside ; but neither this anchorage, nor the other parts of this chain of islands, have
been examined sufficiently to shew whether or not any safe harbours exist. About two-
thirds of a mile to the S.W. of the south point of Delisle Island there is a rock under
water, having close to it 8 fathoms ; and about 5 leagues E. ^ S. from the same point, in
lat. 9° 40' N., there is a high peak on the mainland formed like a funnel. The Sugar
Loaves are two islands in lat. 9° 29' N., lying from 4 to t> miles oft' the coast, near each
other, in an East and West direction; and about a mile from the south end of the
westernmost lies a White Rock and Islet, with Metcalf Island about 2 miles to the
S. Eastward, which may be termed the southernmost of this coaxt chain, although
about 2 leagues farther south and 4 miles oft' shore lies a small isle, called Haye Island,
* These islands have latelj' been examined by Captain Ross, from whose survey their positions have been
corrected.
G 2
44
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO,
Reef.
Pajira Strait.
in lal. 9° 19' N., having a reef projecting ]| miles to the westward. These islands have
generally from 8 to 10 or 12 fathoms water near them, but not always so regular as to
be a safe guide in approaching them. About 5 miles to the South of Haye Island
there is a deep inlet (where tlie coast forms a bight, by takins: a S.W. direction from
the west point of the inlet), about 4 miles, and there forming another point, with a hill
on it, in lat. 9° 12' N., from whence the coast returns to a southerly direction, having
about 2 leagues inland a high ridge of land, the north part of which may be seen at 13
or 14 leagues' distance.
Bangri. Baugri, a place of some trade, frequented by the coasting vessels, is in lat. 9° 0' N.,
being an inlet to a lagoon or bay, which inlet, on the south side, is bounded by a
narrow tongue of sloping land called the Quoin ; the point of the north side is low
and covered with trees, perfectly level ; at the entrance there is a perpendicular
rock, and the shoal banks extend 3 miles off, and dry at half ebb, on which the sea
often breaks ; from these shoal banks at Bangri, Middle Island bears about W. ^ N.,
and Perforated Island about W. S. W. ; the depth of water close to the banks is 3 and
4 fathoms, and H or 2 miles outside it is about 12 fathoms.
In lat. 8° 54' N. lies a sand in the centre of a reef, covered at high water, which ex-
tends 3 miles N. N.W. and S. S. E., and its outer edge is 3 miles from the shore, with
4 and 5 fathoms water close to it, and 8 fathoms at a mile distance ; on the inner part
it appears to unite with the shoal bank that extends from Bangri Bar along the coast to
the southward.
From Bangri Inlet the coast takes a direction, first S. by W., then South and S. ^
E., about 14 or 15 leagues to Papra Strait, in about lat. 8° 10' N., which separates
Junkseylon Island from the continent, and is closed up by a reef of rocks at the en-
trance, over which the sea breaks high in bad weather.
The whole extent of land bordering the sea from Tavoy River to the Strait of Papra
is generally called the Coast of Tanasserim, although the narrowest part of the conti-
nent, which separates Siam Gulf from the Bay of Bengal, is sometimes called the
Isthmus of Kraw. In the channel inside the Tanasserim Archipelago, the flood
usually comes from southward, except opposite to some of the channels between the
islands it comes through from West or .S.W. according to their direction ; and the
ebb mostly comes from northward, except where it sets out to the westward in some
places betwixt the smaller islands : amongst some of these, eddies and irregular tides
prevail ; but inside the principal islands the flood sets northward, and the ebb in the
conti'ary direction, from 2^ to 3 miles per hour on the springs, and rises 10 or 12 feet.
sayer Islands. THE SAYER ISLANDS, although detached like Perforated and Middle Islands,
may be considered as the termination to the southward of the Great Chain or Arciii-
pelago fronting the coast of Tanasserim ; they are not so much elevated as some of
the Aladin Islands, but are bold, safe to approach, and may be seen 8 or 9 leagues.
By observation at noon, the north island bearing E. by S. about 6 leagues, I made it
in lat. 8° 4.3' N. : this island is near to the Great Sayer, which is about 3-^ miles in
extent, but the others are small, and from the north island they extend in a chain
nearly South to about lat. 8° 28^' N. They are about 13 leagues West of Pulo Rajah
and the south end of Junkseylon, or in Ion. 97° 42' E., and appear eight in number,
with two rocky islets off" the S.W. end of the Great Sayer; next to it, the two central
and two southernmost islands are the largest of this group. Captain Ross places the
North Sayer in lat. 8° 41' N., and the body of the Great Island in Ion. 97° 39|' E.
On the east side of the Great Sayer Island there is anchorage near the shore, although
Tides.
TANASSERIM OR MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO. 45
the depth is considerable ; about 6 miles to the East and N. E. of it, and from thence
in a line to Perforated Island, there are soundings of 40 to 47 fathoms ; a little farther
East, and from thence to the main, the soundings decrease gradually in the channel
inside these islands, which is from 9 to 10 leagues in breadth : along the west side of
Junkseylon soundings are obtained at a moderate distance from the shore, decreasing
near it to 8 or 9 fathoms,
JUNKSEYLON, or SALANG ISLAND, separated from the continent by junkseyion;
Papra* Strait, extends from lat. 8° 9' to 7° 46' N., being 8 leagues in length, and f^'l^^';^,'"
about 3 leagues broad. There is a high regular sloping mountain on its southern
part, that may be seen 12 leagues, and is in Ion. 98° 20' E., or 2° 1' West from
the fort of Prince of Wales Island by chronometers,! measured by me at different
times, and at another time 17° o8' East from Madras Elagstaff". On the meridian of
this mountain and the south end of Junkseylon, in lat. 7° .36' N., lies a high woody
island, called Pulo Rajah or Pulo Taya ; and 5 miles South from it there are two
other small but moderately high islands, called the Brothers, with an islet near them.
Between these islands and others contiguous to the south end of Junkseylon the
channel is safe, with soundings from 20 to .35 fathoms, and it may be adopted by ships
coming from the westward; but the great channel to go into the bay is on the east
side of Pulo Rajah and the Brothers.
The western coast of Junkseylon stretches nearly North and South; on the east
side there are several bays, and the chief one, where the harbour is situated, about
4 leagues from the S. E. point of the island, is opposite to the small river, where
Tha-rooa, the principal town, stands, about 1^ miles up the river; Tha-rooa sig-
nifying the " Landing Place." The great passage into the harbour is on the east
side of the two Lalan Islands, which lie oft" the entrance, in lat, 7° 56' N. ; and
the anchorage is to the N.W. of them in 4 or 4^ fathoms, mud, with the Little
Lalan or northernmost island E. by S. 1 mile, the mouth of the river West or W. ^ N,
3 or 4 miles, and the east point of the large island Pulo Coco, bounding the south side
of the harI)our, S. ^ E. There is another passage into the harbour, with 5 fathoms
water, between the Great or South Lalan, and a small islet, called the Cap and Eeather,
ofl^the eastern point of Pulo Coco. The great passage or north entrance is bounded
on the north side by an extensive reef of rocks, dry at low water, which bears North
from Little Lalan, distant 2 miles. It is high water at 10 hours on full and change
of moon; the rise of tide 11 or 12 feet; it runs about 2 miles per hour to the
northward, between Junkseylon and the large island Pulo Panjang to the eastward,
and the ebb sets to the southward with equal velocity. At this place, water, poultry,
and various articles of refreshment, may be procured in abundance, and formerly it
exported a considerable quantity of tin. The natives here have been generallff hos-
pitable to strangers when it belonged to the Malay Rajah of Quedah, but it has been
forcibly occupied by the Siamese of Ligor. Exclusive of Terooa Bay, other harbours
are formed in the north part of the gulf between the islands Junkseylon and Panjang,
particularly among the Nacavsa Islands, about 5 miles to the northward of the Lalan
Islands, also in the entrance of Papra Strait; but the depths inside of that strait being
generally from 2 to 3|^ fathoms, without any safe passage at its western entrance to
* Called Pak Pra by the Siamese, signifying the " Mouth of the Deity."
t Captain Blair made the same mountain 2° 1.^' West from the fort of Prince of Wales's Island by chrono-
meter ; and he made the Lalan Islands in Ion. 98" 23' East, by an eclipse of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter,
Variation 2^ 15' East in 1788.
paris Island.
46 ■ ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
seaward, prevents it from being frequented by trading vessels. The strait between
Pido Panjang and tlie coast is called Callat Lelieree, i. e. Throat Strait, it having
only two feet at low water in the shoalest part. The south end of Pulo Panjang, and
the islands interspersed between it and (he south end of Junkseylon, are safe to ap-
proacli, with soundings from 10 to 16 fathoms amongst them, decreasing towards the
shores on either side the entrance of the gulf. Pulo Panjang, i. e. Long Island, is
called Ka Yau by the Siamese, who now possess Salang and the whole of the country
from Tanasserim round the coast to Queda, called by them Redda, against which the
Rajah of Ligor sent a strong force of Siamese in 1822, who made a conquest of the
Rajah of Quedah's dominions, which forced him to take refuge at Penang, and place
himself under the protection of that government.
THE ANDAMAN ARCHIPELAGO.
THE ANDAMAN ARCHIPELAGO consists of the three principal islands,
which give the name to the group, together with the smaller islands and rocks lying
on and near the meridian of 93° E., and comprehended between the parallels of
10° 25' N. and 15° 0' N.
I'leparis. PREPARIS LSLAND, the northernmost of the group, extending nearly N. by E.
and S. by W. from lat. 14° 49' N. to 14° 56' N., being 7 or 8 miles long and 2 broad,
and in Ion. 93° 40' E., or 33 miles to the westward of Cape Negrais by chronometer,
is of moderate height, sloping gradually all round towards the sea, covered with wood,
steep to on the east side, having 7 fathoms water near the shore. At the north end
there are two islets, called the Cow and Calf, apparently steep to, and on the west side
two other small islets, on the great reef that fronts the west side of Preparis, and that
projects 3^ or 4 leagues from its southern extremity, with part of the rocks visible
above water.
This reef is of greater extent and more dangerous than hitherto supposed, as will be
seen by the following remarks : —
Dangerous When Captain Balston, of the country ship James Drummond, August 13th, 1815,
,!i!ff ?!ii!^!,f steering to the S. E. to check the N. E. current, and to give a berth to the reef ofl'the
south end of Preparis Island, a rock above water was seen bearing S. E., and shortly
after, a flag displayed on it: the cutter was sent, and after passing through a great
surf returned, with Captain Daniels, Mr. White, first officer, and eight men belonging
to the brig Athena, which had been wrecked three days previously on this reef.* In
steering to the S. E. after saving these people, breakers were seen about 5 or miles
distant from the rock on which the brig was wrecked, so that this reef extends much
farther from the south end of Preparis Island than is generally represented ; I made the
* Eighteen men had left the rock on two small rafts before the 13th of August, in hope that the N. E. cur-
rent would drift them to the coast of Tanasserim ; but as they had neither a sail, oars, nor provision, they pro-
bably all perished.
ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 47
norUiern extreme of the island in lat. 15° 7' N.,* the southern extremity of the breakers
in hit. 14' 44' N., but the extent of the breakers to the eastward was not visible in
the evening- from the mast head. The Company's ship Ernaad, from Madras, bound
to Rangoon with troops, was nearly wrecked by striking on this dangerous reef on the
21st August, 1826.
Captain Nairne passed near the reef in the General Kyd, October 8th, 1817, and is
of opinion that it extends 12 miles to the southward of Preparis Island, and that pro-
bably the water is shoal much farther out. The breakers ran very high at tliis time.
It is, therefore, only on the east side of Preparis Island that large ships can safely
anchor in 12 or 14 fathoms; a small vessel might anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms with the
extremes of the island from N. 2° E. to S. 65° W., the extremity of the reef projecting
from the south end of it S. 35° E., and the two islets off the north end N. 3° E. to
N. 8° E. a little more than half a mile from the shore. A few paces from a fine sandy
beach fornied between two ledges of rocks there is a pond of fresh water, very conve-
nient for watering, where boats may land with safety ; it is in one with the highest part
of the island, bearing N.W., which is not inhabited. About two miles from the east
side of the island there is 24 fathoms, and close to the reef at the southern extremity
30 to .36 fathoms ; farther to the southward, no ground is got with 100 fathoms line in
mid-channel between it and the Cocos Islands ; but when the latter are approached
within 2 or 3 leagues, bearing to the S. S. W., there is ground from 36 to 32 fathoms.
In the channel between Preparis and Alguada Reef, the soundings vary from 40 and
44 fathoms near mid-channel, to 24 or 22 fatlioms near the former, and 17 or 18
fathoms near Alguada Reef.
GREAT COCO, bearing from Preparis Island S. by W. ^ W., distant 46 miles. Great Cw
and extending from lat. 14° 2' N. to 14° 8' N.,t is in Ion. 93° 26^' E. by chronometer
and lunar observations. It is nearly 6 miles in length North and South, and 2 miles
in breadth, covered with trees, some of which near the sea are coco-nut trees; the
island is a little uneven in its contour, and being of moderate height, may be seen at the
distance of 6 or 7 leagues. Off the north end there are two islets, called the Table and
Slipper, from their appearance ; another islet is connected with the south end by a reef
of rocks, just covered at high water, that projects a considerable way into the sea. A
ship may anchor on the east side of the Great Coco in from 14 to 20 fathoms, also on
the west side ; but there is little inducement to land here, firewood being the only
article procurable, and perhaps a little water in some parts, by digging- pits.
LITTLE COCO lies about 3 leagues to the S.W. of the Great Coco, the centre of Little coc.
it being in lat. 13° 58^' N. ; it is about 2^ miles long North and South, and half a
mile broad ; it is low, or rather moderately elevated, of an even appearance, and
may be seen 6 or 6^ leagues. Trees cover it in every part, some of which, facing
the sea, are coco-nut or palmyra trees, and there is said to be fresh water on the east
side, -where a ship might anchor in moderate depths; at the N.W. end there is also
anchorage with regular soundings towards the shore, and a fine sandy bay on the west
side where boats may land, but no fresh water is procurable there. From the south
end of the island a reef projects to a considerable distance, whicli ouglit to be avoided
in passing, particularly in the night ; and this reef seems to extend farther out than
* This is considerably to the northward of the position assigned to that part of the island by other navi-
gators, and may probably not be very correct.
t By CapUin J. Ritchie ; but Captain Hall made the Great Coco in lat. 14-° 1 1' N., Ion. 93^ 25' E.
o
48
ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
Channel be-
tween the
islands.
Channel be-
tween Little
Ccco and
Landfall
Island.
Current and
Tides.
Great Anda-
man.
formerly supposed, as will be perceived by the following extract from the journal of
Captain Forbes, of the ship James Sibbald, which proves the existence of the reef, and
that it extends about 4 or 5 miles from the island. March 17th, 1827, at 5 p.m.,
centre of Little Coco Island N.N.W., off shore about .3 miles, shoaled suddenly to
10 fathoms ; bore away to the southward, tinding we were on the edge of the reef, and
had soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, with sudden overfalls of o and fathoms. This
reef appeared to extend about 5 miles from the island in a southerly direction, and
seemed to be dangerous, for the coral bottom was frequently seen, and some rocks,
even with the water's edge, about 3 miles from the island. These islands and Preparis
abound with monkeys and squirrels : larger animals have not been seen upon them.
Around, and between the Cocos Islands, the soundings vary from 8 to 30 fathoms,
deepening as the distance from them is increased to the East or westward suddenly to
no ground. The Margaret passed through the channel between them April 25th,
1802, and the least water she had was 8 fathoms. The Company's ship Nassau went
through this channel in 1779, and had regular soundings of 24 to 3G fathoms.
The Bridgewater, Captain Manderson, August 9th, 1825, from Bengal, bound to
China, went through the channel between the Great and Little Cocos, and carried re-
gular soundings of 30, 25, and 21 fathoms, in passing nearest to the Little Coco, with
the wind at S.VV. The General Kyd, Captain Nairne, and Hythe, Captain Wilson,
also passed through this channel, after the Bridgewater, and on the same day : the
channel appeared about 3 leagues wide, and clear of danger.
The channel between the Little Coco and Landfall Island, off the north end ofthe North
Andaman, is about 6 leagues wide, and hitherto thought to be very safe,* with sound-
ings 30 or 35 fathoms near the former, and from 40 to 56 fathoms about mid-channel,
decreasing to 20 and 18 fathoms near Landfall Island and the ledges of rocks to the
eastward of it : the bank of soundings is about 4^ or 5 leagues broad East and West,
the bottom mostly coral, but in some places it is sand and mud. During the N. E.
monsoon, the current sets frequently through this channel to the N.W. ; in the
S.W. monsoon it sets mostly to the eastward, althouiih in fine settled weather, tides
prevail among these islands, the flood setting to N. N. E., and the ebb to the S. S.
Westward.
The three principal islands of the group, extending from Cape Price, in lat. 13° 34' N.,
Ion. 93° 9' E., to the S. E. point, in lat. 1 1° 30' N., Ion. 92° 50' E., in a S. i W. direction,
although generally considered as one large island, under the name of the Grkat
Andaman, it is in reality composed of three islands, separated from each other by
two narrow straits, one in about lat. 12° 50' N., and the other in 12° 10' N. ; there
is thought to be depth sufficient in these straits for a vessel not drawing much
water, but they are too contracted to be navigated except by boats, or very small
vessels.
THE NORTH ANDAMAN is about 44 miles in length from North to South,
and 14 in breadth ; its north end is surrounded by a group of small islands and rocks,
the principal of which is Landfall Island, in lat. 13° 39' N., the east point of which
* But Captain Henderson and Captain Bennett, both experienced commanders in the country trade, hav€
informed me that in 1809 the bri£r Daphne, although drawing only 10 feet water, struck on a sunken rock
which lies 6 miles South ofthe Little Coco. An extract from the Daphne's journal, lately received from Cap-
tain Ashmore, states that the S. E. end of the Little Coco bore N. by E. about 5 miles when she struck on a
small rockj and saw the rocks under water alongside ; at this time the surf on the shore of the Little Coco was
not visible from the deck.
ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 49
bears nearly North from Cape Price, distant 3 miles. It is the largest of these islands, of islands.
level aspect, and may be seen about leagues ; there is off its eastern point an islet
called East Island, and both are encompassed by a reef, having- 3 fathoms on its west-
ern verge, wiiich should not be approached under 18 or 20 fathoms in any part, parti-
cularly in the nigiit, or in thick weather.
About t) or 7 miles to the W. S. W. of Cape Price, is Cape Thornhill, the N.W. ex-
tremity of the island, off which, at a small distance, there are two islets called Cliff
and Reef Islands, and 3 miles to the northward of these lies West Island.
The channel between Landfall Island and the north end of the Andaman should Channels.
not be attempted, being dangerous and very narrow,* having in the middle of it
Cleugh Reef, with rocky ground and overfalls on either side that shoal. The sound-
ings in this channel vary from 18 to 10 fathoms in the western and middle parts, in-
creasing to 25 and 30 fathoms at the eastern entrance. The flood sets through to the
eastward and the ebb to the westward, high water about 5 hours on full and change
of moon.
Ranger Ledge bears East about 3 miles from East Island, and close to it on the out- Dangers.
side lies Jackson Ledge, botii dangerous shoals; to the S. Eastward of these about
7 miles, and nearly 3 leagues E. by S. from Cape Price, lies Union Ledge, in lat.
13° 20' N., another dangerous shoal. Between the Andaman and these shoals the
bottom is mostly rocky with great overfalls ; ships ought, thereftu'e, to pass always outside
of the shoals in deep water, for at a small distance to the eastward of Jackson Ledge
there are from 18 to 20 fathoms, and near Union Ledge 30 and 40 fathoms. The
edge of the bank of soundings extends only about a league outside this ledge, render-
ing the approach to it dangerous in the night, or in thick weather when the land is
not visible.
Port Cornwallis, on the east side of the North Andaman, in lat. 13° 18' N., about Port com-
16 miles to the southward of Cape Price, is an excellent bay or harbour, extending ^^^"''"
about 2 leagues into the land in a N. Westerly direction, and in breadth about 1 league.
There are in it several small islands, of which the most conspicuous is Chatham Island,
about 2 miles long ; it contains also several creeks and coves ; high water at 4^ hours
on full and change of moon. The entrance is about three-quarters of a mile wide,
with 18 fathoms in mid-channel, formed between an islet at the north point and a
reef projecting from the south point; the depths within decrease from 12 regularly to
7 and fathoms, and the least water in the harbour is five fathoms. To the north-
ward of this harbour, near the shore, there is a group of islands surrounded by a reef;
and about 4 or 5 miles to the southward lie the Ragged Islands, being four islets con-
tiguous to the shore, with regular .soundings, 13 and 15 fathoms near them, and 25 to
29 fathoms about 3 miles' distance.
This excellent harbour being land-locked on every side, and surrounded by lofty
mountains covered with impenetrable forests, is very secure from all winds, and the
scenery is here uncommonly grand. A colony from Bengal first settled at Port
Ciiatiiam near the south end of the island in 1791, which was removed, by advice
of Admiral Cornwallis, in 1793, to Port Cornwallis ; but the impenetrable forests being
unfavourable to cultivation, and ince.ssant rain in the S.VV. monsoon rendering the
place unhealthy, the colony was withdrawn after a few years' residence on the island.
* It is sometimes cidled Pondicherry Passafre, the French ship of that name having forced her way through
it in 17.50. The Admiral Pocock, Captain Clciigii, also went through it in December, 1764 ; and Captain
Heathorne passed through it not long ago, but it ought not to be attempted except in a case of great necessity.
VOL. 11. H
50
ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
To appioach
Port Corn-
wallisfrom the
westwai'd.
Saddle Moun-
tain.
Coast to tlie
soutliwaid.
West Coast of
Great Anda-
man.
Kank off it.
The inhabitants of these islands are negroes of small stature, very black, but strong
and well shaped ; they subsist chiefly on what fish they kill with darts, or sliell fish
procured among the rocks ; but in tempestuous weather these are not always obtained,
and hunger and cold sometimes deprive those miserable savages of existence.
Ships coming from the westward with a fair wind, intending to stop at Port Corn-
wallis, ought to keep 4 miles from West Island and Landfall Island, and at least
2 miles from the north point of the latter; and having steered East 9 or 10 miles, they
may haul to the southward and pass outside of Ranger, Jackson, and Union Ledges.
In thick weather, during the S.W. monsoon, it will be prudent, after making Landfall
Island, and passing to the northward of it at a moderate distance, to steer East until
out of soundings ; or to keep in deep water on the outer verge of the bank, to round
the ledges with safety, for Union Ledge is about 3 leagues from the shore, and not far
within the edge of the bank of soundings.
About 3 leagues to the southward of Port Cornwallis is Saddle Mountain, the
highest on these islands, and discernible at 20 leagues' distance; it appears in the form
of a saddle when viewed either from the east or westward, and its north peak is in
lat. 13° 10' N.
About 5 leagues to the southward of Saddle Mountain lies Sound Island, fronting
the east entrance of Andaman Strait, called Stuart Sound, having 70 and 80 fathoms
very near it, and no soundings about a league off shore ; the whole of the east coast,
from Saddle Mountain to lat. 12° 30' N., is steep and mountainous.
The west coast of the North Andaman has a bank, with various depths, stretching
along it, and extending much farther out in some parts than the soundings on the
eastern coast.
Nearly west from Saddle Mountain, about 8 or 9 leagues from the west side of the
island, there is an extensive part of the bank, which is very shoal, and probably dan-
gerous ; although its dimensions and true position are very imperfectly known. Cap-
tain William Richardson states, that his chief officer ran West on it 2 leagues in sound-
ings from 6 to 4^ fathoms; he supposed that to be its breadth, and the length to
extend North and South, parallel to the coast. A country ship from Musulipatam
bound to Pegu, at day-light, September 20th, 1792, saw the Great Andaman bearing
East, and observed at noon in lat. 1 3° 0' N., then distant from the island 9 or 10 leagues.
From hence she steered 3 or 4 miles to the eastward with a light breeze, and at 2 p.m.
coral rocks were perceived under her, covered apparently with so little water that the
rudder seemed nearly to touch them ; hauled instantly to the westward and soon got
into deep water. In May, 179-5, the Company's ship Pitt, bound from Bengal to
England, had the Saddle Mountain bearing East 9 or 10 leagues, and the extremes of
Great Andaman from N. E. by E. to S. E. by S. ; she then tacked in 14 fathoms, and
had 8 fathoms coral rocks in stays. Standing to the northward with a light breeze,
she had 11, 7^, 14, 16, 24, 18, 12, to 9 fathoms, in the first part of the night, then
tacked and stood S.W. by S., deepening gradually till day-light. At sun-rise the
mountain bore E. N. E., and the extremes of the land from N. E. by N., to S. E. by S.,
distant 9 or 10 leagues, then in 60 fathoms. Between the shoal bank and the coast
the soundings vary from 40 to 20 fathoms, and 15 fathoms near the land.
THE MIDDLE ANDAMAN is only separated from the North Andaman by the
narrow strait before mentioned, calleil Andaman Strait. The island is about 50 miles
in length North and South, and 15 or 16 in general width. Off its N.W. point is an
island called Intervievr Island, forming inside it Port Andaman ; and off its S. E. part
ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
51
there is a group of islands and rocks separated from it by Diligent Strait, hei'eafter to
be described.
Port Andaman, about 14 leagues to the southward of West Island, is formed be-
tween the west entrance of Andaman Strait and a long island fronting it at a small
distance, called Interview Island, that extends from lat. ]2° 47' N. to 13° I'N. About
5 miles off' its north end there is a small island, with an extensive reef projecting from
it towards the north point of the former, betwixt which and the reef there is a passage.
A reef projects from the south end of Interview Island, with 14 fathoms close to, and
also within it, in the entrance of the port ; and to the northward betwixt that island
and the coast lie several islets and rocks; other small islands are dispersed along the
coast, from Interview Island to the N.W. end of the Andaman, with soundings near
them, from 12 to 25 fathoms.
From Port Andaman to the western entrance of Middle Strait, in lat. 12° 12' N.,
some islets and reefs line the shore. About 5 leagues off", in lat. 12° 30' N., opposite ^"ar"d
an island near the shore called Flat Island, there is a bank, with 12 fathoms on it, and
30 to 40 fathoms between it and the land.
Diligent Strait is formed between the S. E. coast of the Middle Andaman and some
contiguous islands, and a group or chain of larger islands about 3 to 5 leagues oft' it,
extending from lat. 11° 48' to 12° 20' N. It is 2 and 3 leagues wide, except towards
the middle, where it is only about 2 or 3 miles in breadth betwixt the nearest islands,
and where the least wAiev found was 8 fathoms; from 17 to 25 fathoms were found in
the northern part of the strait, and in the southern part from 30 to 40 fathoms. The
islands which form the east side of this strait are generally high, covered witli wood
and connected together by reefs ; a bank of soundings extend a few miles around them,
and along the coast of the Andaman opposite, but a few leagues to the southward this
coast becomes very steep. At the north part of Diligent Strait there are several shoals,
and reefs project from some of tlie islands; the anchorage in the middle of it is good,
with shelter from all winds. Opposite these islands, in lat. 12° 2' N., lies the eastern
entrance of MiddleStrait, which divides the Middle Andaman from the South Andaman.
Port Andaman.
Interview
Island.
Coast from
thence south-
Diligent
Strait.
Adjacent
Islands.
THE SOUTH ANDAMAN is about 43 miles in length North and South, and 15 in somh Anda. .
width ; it is separated from the Middle Andaman by the narrow channel called Middle "*"■
Strait, and has oftits south end several islands, the principal of which is Rutland Island,
hereafter described. The ports in the island are. Port Meadows and Port Chatham
on its east side, and Port Campbell on its west side.
Port Meadows, in lat. 12° 0' N., is a small harbour with an island at its entrance, PortMeadows.
inside of which there appears to be secure anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms. The
passage north of the island should not be attempted, that to the southward of the
island is the proper one, but is less than a quarter of a mile wide, and has two rocky
patches in the fair way, with only 4 and A^ fathoms on them.
Port Chatham (the entrance), in lat. 11° 43' N., and 4 leagues from the south end Port Chatham,
of the South Andaman, extends a considerable way inland ; it has 13 fathoms in the
entrance, near the islet fronting it, called Ross Island, and there are other islets and
reefs inside. From this port to the southward, the coast is bold, with various depths
on the bank of soundings lining tiie shore.
Port Camjibell, in lat. 11° 59' N., is an inlet (3 or 7 miles in extent, with an islet on PortCampbeii.
each side the entrance, off" which and oft' the contiguous shores banks extend, narrow-
ing the channel to less than half a mile ; it widens inside, affording an anchorage in
depths from 10 to 12 fathoms.
H 2
62
ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
Rutland Is-
land ; and the
contiguous is-
lands.
RUTLAND ISLAND, near 3 leagues in length, 2 in breadth, and of considerable
height, is separated from the south end of Great Andaman by a narrow strait,
called Macpherson's Strait, although formerly considered as part of that Island. This
strait is scarcely one-fifth of a mile wide at the north point of Rutland Island, having
10 and 12 fathoms at the west entrance, and generally from 16 to 19 fathoms all the
way through.
At a small distance from the west point of Rutland Island there are two small
islands called The Twins, with a reef projecting from thein a little way to the West
and southward, near to which the depths vary from 12 to 22 fathoms ; and off the
S. E. point of the same island there is a group called the Five Islands, and in some
charts, Angue Islands, which are moderately elevated. Between the point of Rutland
Island and the nearest of these, distant from it about a mile, there is a safe passage
with deep water in it, 45 to 60 fathoms. Along the south side of the island there are
regular soundings of 13 to 18 fathoms about 2 or 3 miles off; but nearly 2 leagues to
the'westward of the south point, and the same distance S. Westward from the Twins,
there is a bank of coral rocks, with 7 fathoms on it, and probably less water. The
south end of Rutland Island is in about lat. 11°22'N. Variation 1° 10' East, offit in 1791.
To the N. W. of Rutland Island, near the shore of the South Andaman and off the
western entrance of Macpherson Strait, are several islands, which, together with their
connecting reefs, are called the Labyrinth.
North Cen-
tinel.
THE NORTH CENTINEL, about 15 miles West of the Labyrinth, is a level
island covered with trees, about 5 or 6 miles in extent North and South, and may be
discerned about 6 leagues off. The shore is rocky, and two islets lie at the south end,
and one at the N. W. end of the principal island. The centre of the North Centinel
is in lat. 11° 34' N., Ion. 92° 24' E., and 5° 56' West of the south end of Junkseylon,
by chronometers, measured by me in 1800. Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, made
it in Ion. 92° 24' E. by chronometers, measured from Madras observatory in 1801; and
Captain P. Heywood, in 1802, made it also in 92° 24' East by chronometers and lunar
observations. There is said to be fresh water upon this island. The bank of sound-
ings extends from the west coast of the Andaman a little beyond the Nortli Centinel,
with various depths on it, from 20 or 30, to 50 fathoms, the bottom sand and coral
towards the shore ; but in 40 and 50 fathoms it is generally ooze.
South centinel. SOUTH, or LITTLE CENTINEL, in lat. 1 1° 0' N., bearing from
about South, distant 11 leagues, and 5 or 6 leagues distant from the N.
Little Andaman, is a small woody island, about a mile in extent East and
may be seen about 6 leagues. Frm each end of it coral reefs project
cables' lengths, on which the sea breaks high in the S. W. monsoon,
the east end of the island, about a quarter of a mile off, we had no
fathoms ; but about half-way between it and the N. W. part of the Little
to 13 and 10 fathoms wi
there is ground, 45 and 50 fathoms,
miles of that shore.
decreasing
the former
W. part of
West, that
about two
Abreast of
ground 40
Andaman,
thin 1 or 2
Duncan Pas-
sages.
Northern or
small passage.
THE DUNCAN PASSAGES are formed by the islands which lie between Rut-
land Island and the Little Andaman ; the larger of the two is very safe and commo-
dious.
The northern or small passage, through which Captain P. Duncan returned from
Manilla, in January, 1760, is formed on the north side by the Five Islands, and on the
ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 53
south side by Passage Island and the Sisters; 3 or 4 miles wide, with soundings from
25 to 14 fathoms.
The southern extremity of the Five Islands is in lat. 71° 17' N., from which pro- Five islands,
jects a reef to a small distance around these islands. Passage Island, of middling height,
lies to the southward 4 or 5 miles from these, and the Sisters about 7 or 8 miles to the Tiie sisters.
S. S. Eastward, The latter are two small islands near each other; the southernmost,
in lat. 11° 10' N., is sometimes, from its shape, called Round Island. In coming from
the westward towards the Great Passage, the Sisters are on with each other until they
bear N. 20° E., then they begin to open, and the North Brother is on the same transit
line bearing from them S. 20° W., distant 11 miles, or in lat. 10° 59^' N. The Bro- The Brothers,
thers are two small islands on a transit line bearing S. 36° W., separated about 2 or 3
miles, and distant from the N. E. part of the Little Andaman from 4 or 5, to 8 miles :
they are not so high as the other islands ; the trees on the southernmost are ragged,
but on the North Brother they are perfectly level, which on this account is sometimes
called Flat Island.
The Great Passage, through which Captain Duncan went in his passage to Manilla, Great passage
formed between the South or Round Sister and the North or Flat Brother, is about 10
or 11 miles wide, and very safe by day or night, if not too dark to see the land when
near it, there being no danger, unless a reef projecting about half a mile from the
north end of Flat Island be considered one, which by the water breaking on it is
always visible. If it be too dark, a ship may anchor in 12 to 17 fathoms sandy bottom
in the channel, for the depths are generally from 12 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom,
on the bank extending between Rutland Island and the north end of Little Andaman.
This bank projects only a few miles to the eastward of the Brothers and Sisters, and
4 or 5 leagues to the westward Qf^them, where it shelves suddenly to no ground,
forming a deep concavity between the Centinels ; for it takes a sharp bend from
the north part of Little Andaman to the westward, and from Rutland Island it stretches
out round the Great Centinel, joining the bank on the west side of the Great Andaman.
As reefs project from each of the Brothers, the space between them probably affords
no safe passage for a large ship ; but between the South Brother and the N. E. end of
the Little Andaman there is a passage, with 6, 8, and 10 fathoms in it, through which
H. M. sloop Ariel went in 1790. It is about a mile in breadth, bounded by reefs
jjrojecting from the South Brother and Andaman, and being narrow, it should not be
entered except from necessity : — the passage to the northward of the Brothers ought
always to be chosen in preference.
In light breezes and tine weather, a kind of tide sets through the channels among Tides and cur.
these islands to the eastward and westward, but at times currents prevail, which are '^"'^"
generally governed by the wind. In the N. E. monsoon, on both sides the islands, the
current sets mostly to S. W. or southward; a ship running for Duncan's Passage
should, therefore, endeavour to keep a little to the northward in this season, and to the
southward in the opposite monsoon, according to the prevailing wind, that she may
preserve a leading breeze to pass through the channel.
THE LITTLE ANDAMAN extends from lat. 10° 53' N. to lat. 10° 26' N., Little Anda-
being 9 leagues in length North and South, and about 5 leagues in breadth at the ™^"-
middle of the island; the S.E. point is 16 miles East from the North Centinel by
chronometer. This island has an even appearance, a little convex, sloping from the
centre toward the sea all round, and may be seen 6^ or 7 leagues from the deck of a
large ship. Like all the other islands, it is well clothed with trees, and two small
54 ANDAMAN ISLANDS.
runs of water fall into the sea, one at the north end, the other in a small bay at the
N. \V. part.* The soundings along the east and west sides of the island are mostly
from 10 to 18 fathoms about 1 or 2 miles off, deepening about 5 or 6 miles off to .50 or
55 fathoms, then no ground ; the south side is more steep, there being no ground
about 3 or 4 miles offshore, and .38 or 40 fathoms within 1 or 2 miles of it, a little to
the eastward of the S. AV. point of the island. From this point W. by S., 5 orti miles
distant, there is a bank of coral rocks with 7 or 8 fathoms on it, or probably less
water; which may be avoided by keeping farther out, or between it and the S. W.
point of the island, in a good channel, having 13 and 14 fathoms near the sandy point,
and deepening to 20 or 25 fathoms towards the coral bank.
Invisible INVISIBLE BANK, so named by Captain Blair, as the water did not seem dis-
^^"''- coloured upon it, lies East from Duncan Passage, distant from the Sisters 14 or 15
leagues, extending North and South about 10 leagues, or from lat. 10° 5(J' to 1 1° 27' N.,
and is nearly from 2 to 3 leagues in breadth. The soundings on this bank vary from
17 or 18, to 40 or 50 fathoms near its outer edges, where in deep water the ground is
sometimes ooze or sand, but well in upon the bank, frequently foul and rocky, parti-
cularly near the dangerous rock now to be described.
Flat Rock. Flat Rock, in lat. 11° 8' N., about Ion. 93° 30' E.,t bearing nearly East from the
Sisters in Duncan Passage, distant 14 leagues, is very dangerous, being only 8 or 10
feet above water, of circular form, about 30 yards in diameter, with rocky foul ground
stretching out from it about twice its length, on which the sea breaks in bad weather.
This dangerous rock being situated upon the Invisible Bank, a little to the southward
of its centre, the lead, if kept going, will denote the near approach to it, for soundings
extend from it all round to a small distance, but farthest to the North and southward.
At a small distance from the rock, the depths are from 13 to 20 fathoms, coral and
sand, increasing in standing from it all round to 30 or 40 fathoms towards the edge of
the bank ; but as the soundings are not always regular, it would be dangerous to
approach the rock in the night or in thick weather; for at such times, when a ship is
in the vicinity of the bank, the lead should be kept briskly going, and if soundings
are obtained, she ought to tack or haul out immediately into deep water. Flat Rock,
being directly opposite to Duncan Passage, is much in the way of ships from Mergui
proceeding by that passage in the N. E. monsoon ; but with common attention it may
always be avoided.
Barren Island. BARREN ISLAND (the Centre), in lat. 12° IC N., Ion. 4° 24' West from the
south end of Junkseylon by chrcmometers, measured by me in 1803, and in 93° 54'
East, by Captain Hall's chronometers, in the Worcester, in 1795, is a volcano, but of
an even appearance when viewed at a considerable distance, and may be seen from 12
to 13 leagues from the deck. It is of small extent, covered with trees, except near
* Like the Great Andaman, it is thinly inhabited, the natives depending chiefly on what fish they can pro-
cure for subsistence. The inhabitants of these islands were long considered cannibals, but it is now known,
that if ever they deserved such appellation, it arose probably from excessive hunger, and not from choice. It
is however prudent for boats landing at these islands to be on their guard, for, a few years back, the boat of
an American ship, in landing on the Great Andaman, was assailed by a shower of darts from the natives in
ambush behind the bushes, who rushed out and endeavoured to hold fast the boat. After firing some musket
shots at them, they fled, but several of the sailors were wounded by the darts, one gentleman, who went in the
boat for amusement, very severely between the ribs.
+ Captain W. Owen, in H. IM. sloop Seaflower, made the breakers on the Flat Rock in lat. 11° 17' N., Ion.
93° 29' E., and some other navigators place it nearly in this longitude.
NICOBAR ISLANDS. 55
the crater.* Captain Alraes, who landed on it in 1801, found no soundings within
10 yards of the shore; firewood could be got with difficulty, but he saw no runs of
water.
With Barren Island bearing N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues, tiiere is said to be a bank,
where Captain Sharrington, in the Bahar, saw the rocks alongside, and had 4 fathoms
water. This account is rendered doubtful, for no signs of a shoal-bank in the situation
described have been discovered for many years.
NARCONDAM, in lat. 13^ 24' N., Ion. 94° 12' E.,t bears about N. by East from Narcondam.
Barren Island, distant 70 miles, by observations taken when passing between them •
Captain Hall made it in Ion. 94° 11' E. by chronometers, and it is about 21 leagues
distant from the nearest part of the North Andaman. When in 21 fathoms close to
Jackson Ledge, off Landfall Island, Narcondam was in sight from our mizen shrouds ;
and on the same day, when the observed latitude at noon was 12^ 55' N., the Andamans,
seen from the deck, bore from W. by S. ^ S. to W. N.W., Gap of Saddle Mountain
W. by N. ^ N., Narcondam N. E. i N., and Barren Island not much elevated above
the horizon S. by E. ^ £. Narcondam may be seen about 14 or 15 leagues from the
deck, being higher than Barren Island, and appears in the form of a cone or pyramid
with its summit broken off. Close to it on the east side there is an islet or rock, and
another at the south point ; but it is bold and safe to approach all round, and, like
Barren Island, of small extent.
NICOBAR ISLANDS.
THE NICOBAR ISLANDS, called by the Malays the Sambilangs, or Nine Nicobai
Islands, extend N. N. W. and S. S. E., about 53 leagues, iiaving several safe channels ^'''"'''*'
among them : eight or nine of them are of considerable size ; the others, nine or ten in
number, generally small. The islands are rendered unhealthy by the noxious vapours
which arise from the thick vegetation of the forests, and the fever which prevails, called
the Nicobar fever, or jungle fever of the Continent, frequently proves fatal to Euro-
peans who remain at these islands.
CAR-NICOBAR, the northernmost of these islands, bears from the S. E. point of Car-Nicobar
Island.
* It was not generally known that Barren Island was in an active state until 1791, when we passed close to
it in the King George, and perceived the crater of the volcano, with a quantity of very white smoke close
to it. Since that time it has continued active, subject to violent eruptions in the S. W. monsoon, or rainy
season. In November, 1803, the volcano was observed to explode regularly every 10 minutes, projecting each
time a column of^black smoke perpendicularly to a great height ; and in the night a fire of considerable size
continued to burn on the east side of the crater, which was then exposed to our view. The crater is laro-e,
nearly in the middle, or rather toward the north side of the island, and only seen from that side ; close to it on
the west side there is a small hill ; but the contour of the island seems not to have altered in 25 years, although
the volcano has been subject to great explosions, and the crater is of great dimensions when compared with the
extent of the island. The Thetis made Barren Island in Ion. 93° 53' E., and the Mornington made it in 93° 54' E.
by chronometer from Prince of Wales Island.
t Captain Corry, of the Royal Navy, made it in Ion. 94° 201' E., or 6° 1 J' West of the Fort of Prince of
Wales Island.
•56
NICOBAR ISLANDS.
Supplies.
Inhabitants.
Anchorage.
Ten Degrees
Cliannel.
the Little Andaman about S. by E., distant 80 miles, its centre being in lat. 9° 10' N.,
Ion. 92° 54' E., or 12° 32' E. by chronometers from Madras. It is about G miles in
length North and South, and 5 in breadth, very little elevated above the sea, except at
the west side, and near the S. E. point there are small risings. The middle of the
island is covered with long rich grass, where multitudes of hogs are bred ; near the
coast there are fruit trees of various kinds, particularly orange, citron, lemon, and lime
trees; plantains, yams, and sweet potatoes, may be also procured, but coco-nuts are in
the greatest abundance, and on these all the animals are fed, there being no sort of grain.
Sliips from the Coromandel coast stop here at times to load with coco-nuts, which
they receive in barter for coarse blue cloth or other piece goods ; and with the cargo
procured here they proceed to Rangoon, where they receive for it in exchange a cargo
of plank for ship building.
The inhabitants of this island are usually hospitable to strangers, and inoffensive to
each other ; they live in small villages near the sea on different sides of the island, for
the conveniency of carrying their coco-nuts to ships. A ship having a scorbutic crew
may touch here for a supjjly of hogs, or other necessary refreshments, and she may
anchor on either side the island in from 12 to 30 fathoms, near some of the villages ;
but soundings do not extend far out : the bank being steep, and the bottom mostly
sand, or sand and coral, makes the anchorage indiflerent. The most eligible place to
anchor at is in a bay at the N.W. end of the island in 10 or 12 fathoms, abreast the
watering place and village. The Minerva, in January, 1803, anchored in 8 fathoms,
about ^ a mile offshore, with the village on the west side of the island bearing East,
and procured a few hogs. The same ship,
returning
from Bengal, anchored
April 13th, 1803, in 11 fathoms, with the extremes of tlie island from N. E. by N.
to S.W., and a village S. by E. 1 mile, where she remained three days during calms
and light airs filling up her water.*
The City of London, November 15th, 1800, anchored at 10 p.m. in 15 fathoms,
and at day-light the extremes of the island bore from E. ^ N. to S.W. ^ S., the
hill South, off shore about 2 miles. She filled up with good water, procured some
fresh provisions, coco-nuts, limes, &c., for her scorbutic and sick people, and sailed
on the 18th.
The Ganges anchored, November 9th, 1805, in 15 fathoms, at the N. E. part of the
island, bearing from West to S. by E. | E., and a village S.W. ^ S., off shore
H miles ; here she remained two days procuring about 15 butts of water, the wells
being nearly dry, and the surf rendering it difficult to get the casks from the shore ; so
the other side of the island seems preferable, when the season will permit a ship to
anchor there.
The channel betwixt this island and the Little Andaman, generally called the Ten
Degrees Channel, is spacious and clear from danger.
Batty Malve
Island.
BATTY MALVE, in lat. 8° 46^' N., bearing from the south end of Car-Nicobar
about S. bv E. }j E., distant 7 leagues, is about H miles in length East and West, and
* Captain Hay, of the Inglis, who touched here for refreshments, January 28th, ] 813, advises not to round the
N.W. point of the island too close, as he got into broken water, at 1 1 miles distant from it ; and states that a large
ship ought not to come under 12 or 14 fathoms, as he did for the convenience of getting refreshments quickly on
board, having anchored abreast the village in 9.V fathoms 1 mile distant, the north point N. E ^ N., south point
W. by S. ; with 30 fathoms of cable out, a rock was seen under the ship, having only 7J- fathoms water on it.
A ship ought to anchor about half-way between the N. W. point and the village, in 12 or 14 fathoms sand, but
never so near the village as did the Inglis.
NICOBAR ISLANDS. 57
half that breadth. It is destitute of water or inhabitants, being composed of an entire
rock, covered with a thin stratum of soil, which only gives root to some shrubs and scraggy
trees. At the west end it is of moderate height, sloping in the form of a wedge to the
eastward, and has, therefore, been sometimes called the Quoin. At the S.W. end,
about a mile distant, there are soundings from 25 to 35 fathoms, and 40 fathoms about
half a mile oft' the west end of the island.
CHOWRY, in lat. 8°28i' N., bearing S. E. by S. from Batty Malve, distant about chowryisiand.
7 leagues, is of square form, and scarcely 1|^ miles in extent. The S.E. angle consists
of a large rock rising perpendicularly from the sea to a considerable height above the
tops of the trees that grow on the island, Avhich, excepting this rock, is low and level,
and not elevated more than 6 or 8 feet above the surface of the sea.
Contiguous to the shore coco-nut trees abound, and the whole of the level part of
the island is a continued orchard of tropical fruit-trees, oranges, citron, limes, &c.
The natives rear also hogs and poultry, and, like those on Car-Nicobar, are generally
friendly to such ships as stop at the island : — coco-nuts may also be procured here for
the Pegu market. Soundings project 1 or 2 miles from the shore, particularly off the
S.W. end of the island, where a ship may anchor in 15 to 25 fathoms. On the N. E.
side there is a village, with anchorage abreast, in 20 or 30 fathoms, sandy bottom.
TERRESSA, extending N. W. and S. E., between lat. 8° 12' and 8° 22' N., is about xerressa.
4 leagues in length, and 5 miles broad at the N. W. end, but scarcely half so much at
the S. E. end; the north end bears from the nearest part of Chowry S.S. E. f E.,
distant 6 miles. Terressa, when viewed at a considerable distance, appears like two
islands, the land towards each end, particularly the north part, being much higher
than in the middle. Its animal and vegetable productions are the same as on Car-
Nicobar, but it is less populous. There is anchorage both on the east and west sides
of the island ; on the west side, the depths are from .30 to 40 fathoms within a quarter
or half a mile of the shore ; at the south point, where a reef projects into the sea, it is
not so steep, for a ship may anchor in 30 fathoms coarse sand, near the S. E. point of
the island. This point I made in Ion. 93° 18' East, or 12° 58' East from Madras, by Position.
chronometers.
BOMPOKA, separated from the S. E. end of Terressa by a channel about 2 miles Bompoka.
wide, is a small island, formed of a mountain partly covered with wood. Its summit
is a sharp ridge, extending North and South about half the length of the island, from
which the declivity on all sides is regular to the water's edge. This island is noted on
account of its women being more fair and more handsome than any of the Nicoba-
rians. In the channel betwixt it and Terressa there is said to be safe anchorage, par-
ticularly inside, in 15 or 20 fathoms under Bompoka.
KATCHALL, or Tillongchool, situated to the S. Eastward of the south end of Katchaii.
Terressa and Bompoka, and separated from them by a fine safe channel, about 5^
leagues wide, is of triangular form, each side being about 3 leagues in extent. The
north and west sides are moderately elevated, of level appearance, but towards the
middle and S. E. part of the island the land is higher, and may be discerned about
8 leagues. It is covered with wood, and along the N. W. side there is anchorage in
15 to 25 fathoms coarse sand, from I to 2 miles off shore; but the N. E. side is steep,
having no ground at 100 fathoms about half a mile from it. The west end of Katchaii
VOL. II. I
58
NICOBAR ISLANDS.
Position. is in about lat. 7° 54' N., Ion. i).3°27' East, or 13° 7' East from Madras by chronome-
ters, measured by me in 1798; and Captain C. C. M'Intosh made it 13" 0' East from
Madras by chronometers, in 1797.
Ships may pass at discretion throuoh any of the channels between Car-Nicobar and
Katchall, all being' safe. Steerini;, in the Anna, for the Sombreiro Channel in August,
we were horsed to the northward by a current, and saw Katchall bearing E. S. E. ;
then bore away to the northward of it and Camorta, and passed between the latter and
Tillangchong, through an e.xcellent channel.
Noiicowry
island.
Noncowry
Harbour.
Tides.
Directions,
NONCOWRY ISLAND, which gives name to the harbour, hereafter described,
and bounds it on the south side, is about 4 miles in extent, of triangular form, rugged
and uneven, almost covered with wood. It abounds with lime-stone, is thinly inha-
bited, and little can be procured from it excepting timber and some hogs.
Noncowry Harbour, in lat. 8° 0' N., Ion. 93° 41' E., distant from the east side
of Katchall 4 or 5 miles, formed by a narrow channel that separates Noncowry Island
from the south part of the island Camorta, is very capacious and will shelter a large
fleet of ships from all winds. Having an entrance at each end, one to the eastward,
another to the westward, with soundings, where ships may anchor occasionally,
makes it very convenient; and they may enter or depart from it in every month of
the year. The western entrance, about an eighth of a mile, or 100 fathoms wide, is
foriwed between two steep points of high land, and the depths in it are generally
from 27 to 35 fathoms : outside of it, a sand-bank with irregular soundings from 6 to
12 fathoms, and patches of rocky bottom, project a little way from the S. W. point of
Camorta. The eastern entrance is very little wider than the western, being contracted
by rocky banks which line the shore on each side, having 12 and 14 fathoms close to
them, and from 18 to 20 fathoms in mid-channel. Outside this narrow part of the
entrance there is less water betwixt the south end of the island Trincutte and the
N. E. end of Noncowry ; but in mid-channel, never less than 6 fathoms, and generally
5 or 6 fathoms, close to the rocky banks that bound it on each side.
The eastern entrance is preferable for going in, being rather wider, with less water ;
and there is safe anchorage outside the narrow part, in the space betwixt Trincutte and
the east side of Camorta, which is called False Harbour, having various depths, from
6 to 10 fathoms, but it becomes very shoal to the northward.
The harbour is separated into two parts by two points of land facing each other : the
easternmost, called Cross Harbour, from its form, is the smaller, and contains several
shelves of rock in the southern arm of it, with 5 or 6 fathoms close to them ; here ships
might be hove down to their own guns, the water being perfectly smooth in all kinds of
weather. The western or larger part of the harbour is a great basin, of an oblong-
square form, about 2 miles long and 1 broad, with a cove on the west side, and another
at the south end. In the N. W. part there is a rocky bank, with 5 and 6 fathoms water
on it ; but the depths throughout the harbour are generally 10 or 12 fathoms near the
shore, and 18 or 20 fathoms in the middle, except near the western entrance, where
there are from 27 to 34 fathoms. The bottom is all soft, good holding ground.
The tide runs strong with eddies through the western entrance in the springs, but it
is safe with a steady fair wind, particularly when departing from the harbour. The
flood sets through the harbour to the eastward, but with very little velocity inside;
high water at 9;^ hours, on full and change of moon, and the tide rises 8 or 9 feet.
Yar. 1° 30' East, in 1791.
Ships going in or out by either entrance should endeavour to keep in mid-channel
NICOBAR ISLANDS. 59
between the points, with people on the fore, or fore-top-sail yard, to look out for the
edges of the rocky banks that line the shores.
A few Danish or Moravian missionaries were settled here many years, for the pur-
pose of converting the natives to Christianity ; the village at Cross Harbour, where
they resided, was called by them Herman. Few refreshments are got here, the land
being hilly and not cultivated, although on the north side of the harbour the soil is
good, and will admit of cultivation. Water is got in wells, although it is rather scarce
in the dry season. The Bellona and Isabella went into the harbour, in November,
1795, and could only procure a small supply of water, a few hogs, and one or two bul-
locks ; although the Danish chief gave them his assistance. The natives will barter
what refreshments they have for tobacco, in preference to cash, and shag from Java
they are very fond of. The harbour, like the islands generally, is considered un-
healthy, and the fever that prevails, called the Nicobar fever, or jungle fever of the
continent, frequently proves fatal to Europeans who remain at these islands.
C AMORTA, or CAR-MORTA, which forms the north side of Noncowry Harbour, camona.
is about \6 miles in length North and South, extending from lat. 8°0' tolat. 8"^ 15' N.,
and is from 2 to 5 miles broad. The north end and middle of this island are tiat, and
not much elevated, but about the harbour it is high, particularly on the west side,
where stands the principal village at the foot of a perpendicular ridge. There is said
to be several sorts of poon trees, fit for masts, which grow on the island; and there
are several places of pasturage, with a rich soil, producing yams, pine apples, plantains,
guavas, and sugar-canes are said to grow without cultivation ; notwithstanding, it is
thinly inhabited. About 3 miles from the S.W. point lies the mouth of a lagoon,
which extends into the island a great way. Along the west side there are soundings
near the shore, and from the N.VV. point projects a reef of rocks, with shoal water
about 3 miles off.
TRINCIJTTE, a low, level island, covered with beetle-nut and coco-nut trees, Trincutte.
about 2 leagues in length, near to, and fronting the east side of Camorta, is separated
from it by a narrow channel, which, excepting the southern part, is shoal, and forms
the first large opening in entering Noncowry Harbour from the eastward. Tliere are
soundings of 15 to 20 fathoms along the east side of Trincutte at a small distance, and
good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms at the north end, between it and the N. E. part of
Camorta.
TILLANGCHONG, including the small islands adjoining its south end, extends xniangchong.
from lat. 8° 22' to 8° 33' N., being 2 or 3 miles in breadth, and lies N. by E. of
Camorta, 3 or 4 leagues distant, it is a high, oblong, rugged mountain, that may be
seen 12 leagues off, in many parts covered with trees, and inhabited only by such per-
sons as have been banished from the other islands. The east side of the island is
steep, but close to the islets and rocks that line its western shore, and near those
chained to its south end, the depths are from 36 to 42 fathoms. Betwixt the latter
and the north end of Camorta, the channel is 3 leagues wide and very safe, with a
bank of soundings stretching from the islets off Tillangchong to the Islands Camorta
and Trincutte, on which there are 42 and 45 fathoms near the former, from 40 to 65
fathoms in mid-channel, and 18 or 20 fathoms near to Camorta.
SOMBREIRO CHANNEL, bounded on the north side by the islands of Katchall sombrei.
I 2
Channel.
60
NICOBAR ISLANDS.
and Noncowry, and by Meroe or Passage Island on the south side, is very safe, and
about 7 leagues wide.
About .3 leagues South from the S. E. end of Katchall there is a coral bank, with
various depths; the least water found on it has been 9 and 10 fathoms, but both to the
northward and southward of it there is no ground in the channel. H. M.S. Tri-
dent, February 2nd, 1805, got one cast of soundings about 15 fathoms, coral and sand,
in lat. 7° 42|-' N., Ion. 9.3° 33' E., by chronometer, but the weather was too hazy to
obtain bearings of the land. Ships steering for the channel, if not certain of their
latitude, should endeavour to fall in with the land on the windward side, according to
the prevailing monsoon ; and they may pass through without hesitation, by night as
well as by day, if the weather is not too dark at the time.
Meroe.
Track and
Trice Islands.
MEROE is a low small island, about 3 leagues to the N.W. of the Little Nico-
bar, and bears from the S. E. point of Katchall S. by E. ^ E., distant 7^ leagues, being
situated in lat. 7° 29' N., Ion. 93° 46' E., or 13° 24' East from Madras by cliro-
nometers.
About 4 miles E. by S. from Meroe, and nearly the same distance from the north
end of the Little Nicobar, there is a small island, called Track, and another close to it
on the east side, called Trice, which are surrounded by rocks. Betwixt them and
Meroe the passage is safe, said to have soundings from 12 to 20 fathoms ; but the
Prince Regent sailed through this passage August 8th, 1820, at half-past 5 a.m., and
had no soundings with 30 fathoms line. Betwixt these small islands and the Nicobar,
there is said to be a narrow and critical passage, with soundings from 7 to 12 fathoms,
which should never be attempted.
The two large islands to the southward of the Sombreiro Channel are sometimes
called the Great and Little Sambilangs, but generally. Great and Little Nicobars ;
the former being the largest and southernmost of all the islands which form this
chain.
Little Nicobar.
LITTLE NICOBAR ISLAND extends nearly N. E. and S. W. from lat. 7° 13'
to 7° 26' N., being about 4 leagues in length and 2 in breadth ; it is moderately
elevated and hilly, covered with wood, and steep to seaward ; but there are soundings
all round near the shore. On the N.W. side, a little to the westward of an island
adjoining the shore, there is said to be anchorage off a small bay, where there is a run
of water; but although this island and the Great Nicobar are said to have many inha-
bitants, they are less known than those of the other islands ; the natives, being shy of
strangers, seldom or never venture on board of passing ships. They are, however,
thought to be inoffensive, and have sometimes treated with lenity the people belonging
to vessels that had the misfortune to be shipwrecked among them.
St. George
Channel.
ST. GEORGE CHANNEL, formed between the Great and Little Nicobar, is
6 leagues
in
bottom in
from 3 to 6 miles wide, and extending E. N. E. and W. S. W., about 5 or
length, with deep water in it, except near the western entrance. The
general is foul, with strong tides or currents running in eddies through the channel ;
therefore, of late years, few ships have passed through it, unless accidentally carried into
it by an unexpected current. A little inside the western entrance is the Island of
Condul, nearest to the southern shore, and between them there is no safe passage.
From the north end of the same island a reef projects considerably, betwixt which
and the northern shore is the proper channel, and ships that intend to proceed
WEST COAST OF SUMATRA. 61
through should keep nearest to the north side, or Little Nicobar shore, where there is
said to be soundings, but none in mid-channel. The rocky bottom, deep water and
strong- eddies, will, however, always make it imprudent to anchor, except to the west-
ward of Condul Island, where the depths are moderate. On the south side the east-
ern entrance, off the N. E. end of Great Nicobar, is the small Island of Cabra, of
middling height ; and on the north side, the Island of Monthoule, near the east end
of Little Nicobar. The entrance into the channel is between these two small islands.
GREAT NICOBAR ISLAND extends N. by W. and S. by E., about 10 leagues Great Nicobar.
in length, and is 4 or 5 leagues broad at the north part and middle of the island, where
the land is high, and may be discerned 11 or 12 leagues off. The south part becomes
narrow, projecting in a low level point, which is about 1|^ or 2 miles broad, covered
with trees, and having a sandy beach facing the sea. This point is in lat. 6° 45' N., Position.
Ion. 94° 0' E., or 10° 34^' W. from Pulo Aor, by two chronometers exactly agreeing.
By three chronometers agreeing to half a mile, I made it 21° 1' E. from Bombay Castle,
and Captain M'Intosh made it 21° 4' East from the same, by good chronometers;
the mean, 21° 2^' East, will place it in Ion. 93° 58' E., allowing Bombay Castle in
72° 551' £. Captain P. Heywood, in 1804, made the south point of the Great Nico-
bar in Ion. 93° 59' E., by chronometers from Madras, allowing the latter to be in Ion.
80° 20' E., and he made it in 94° 2' E. by lunar observations.
The highest part of this island is in lat. 7° 8' N., and mostly the whole of it is
covered with trees. Soundings from 17 to 24 fathoms extend along the west coast
about 2 or 3 miles off shore; from the S.W. side the bank projects about 2 leagues or
more, the depths on it being from 25 to 30 fathoms about 5 or 6 miles from the shore.
From the south point a reef projects a considerable way into the sea, and lines the
shore on the west side, with soundings near it of moderate depths, over a bottom of
coarse sand and shells; the S. E. side of the point is thought to be more steep,
although it seems probable that soundings extend along the east side of the island
near the shore, which part is generally avoided by ships
)S.
THE CURRENT sometimes sets strong to leeward for several days together, current.
through the various channels between the south end of the Little Andaman and the
southernmost Nicobars, according to the strength of the prevailing monsoon ; but at
times it slacks, or sets to windward, particularly when the winds are light and variable.
Under lee of the different islands there is frequently a kind of tide prevailing, when
the current is setting strong to leeward through the channels between them.
WEST COAST OF SUMATRA.
ACHEN AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS.
AS the GREAT ENTRANCE leading to MALACCA STRAIT from the west-
ward is formed between the south end of Great Nicobar and Pulo Rondo, the latter
62
ISLANDS AND PASSAGES NEAR ACHEN.
being the northernmost of the islands off Achen, it is expedient to approximate their
true situations ; for they are often seen by ships approaching the strait, or used as
stations of departure in sailing from it, when bound to the westward.
Puio Rondo. PULO* RONDO is in lat. 6° 41' N., Ion. 95° 12' E., or 3° 47' W. from Pulo Pera,
measured twice, by good chronometers. Captain P. Heywood made it 14° 52' East
of Madras by chronometers, | which places it in Ion. 95° 12' E., and he made it 5° 9'
West from the fort of Prince of Wales Island, which would place it in Ion. 95° 12'
East.
From the south end of great Nicobar it bears S. 61° E. {true), distant 84 miles, and
being a high perpendicular rock of round form, may be seen 8 leagues from the deck
of a large ship. On the north side it is steep without soundings, which is the case all
round ; but to the southward, distant from it about 2 miles or more, there is a ledge
of rocks above water, betwixt which and the north-west end of Pulo Way there is a
safe channel, about 3 or 3^ leagues wide.
Pulo Way. PULO WAY, the largest of the Achen Islands, distant about 4 leagues to the south-
eastward of Pulo Rondo, extends in the same direction about 3 leagues in length.
Being high and uneven, it may be seen 12 leagues; and along the south side of it, in
some parts, there are soundings near the shore. Captain Miller, of the ship William
Wilson, describes Pulo Way as " steep to on its south side in most places," and adds,
' I have stood within two cables' lengths, and perceived no change in the water from
the deep clear ocean blue, nor could soundings be obtained in stays ; there is a bay of
considerable magnitude just to the westward of the S.W. point, which may aftbrd
anchorage. There is a rock above water off the S. W. point about the size of a boat :
it lies above half a mile off shore. It nearly proved fatal to the William Wilson, under
my command, while beating through that channel in a moonlight night, but may be
avoided when aware of its existence."!
MALACCA PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Way and the Sumatra coast, is
about 3 leagues broad, having in it the small Island of Malora, or Pulo Buroo, nearly
a third channel over from the Sumatra shore. The passage on either side this island is
safe, but between it and Pulo Way the water is deep ; whereas, that inside has
moderate depths for anchoring occasionally, 14 to 16 fathoms near Pulo Malora, and
9 or 10 fathoms near the Sumatra shore, which in passing Point Pedro must not be
approached under 10 fathoms. Captain Bradshaw says, that the passage between
Pulo Malora and the main is only about 1^ miles wide, and he recommends, in work-
ing through in the night, to keep the lead going quickly, standing to 10 fathoms, and
not under this depth, towards Point Pedro : the water deepens very quickly from 12 to
17 fathoms in standing towards Malora, then from 12 to 8 fathoms within half a mile
of it, which ought not to be approached nearer, as a reef projects from the east side of
it a little more than a quarter of a mile. This is the best passage to approach Achen
in coming from the north-eastward or eastward.
Pulo Erase. PULO BRASSE is high and even ; it fronts the sea to the N.W., and the north end
is in lat. 5° 46' N., Ion. 95° 5' E., bearing from Pulo Rondo about S. S. W., distant
* Pulo signifies an island in the Malay language.
f The Princess Amelia, in 1811, made it 14° 51' East of Madras by chronometers.
\ Nautical Magasinefor 1839, p. 84'.
Malacca
Passage.
ISLANDS AND PASSAGES NEAR ACHEN. 63
nearly 7 leagues. Off the north end of it there are four rocky islets, the northernmost
of which is about 3 or 3^ miles distant, and is about 25 feet above water, with regular
soundings near it, 25 to 28 fathoms nuid, from 1 to 2 miles to the eastward and north-
ward, but a reef projects from the north end of Pulo Brasse towards the other islets.
The outer islet is bold to approach on the east, north, and west sides, and there is a
safe passage between it and the next islet ; but a reef surrounds the latter to the dis-
tance of a cable's length, upon which the sea breaks high in moderate breezes.
Captain Miller remarks, that the two detached rocks off the north point of Pulo
Brasse may by a stranger be mistaken in the night for the two rocky islets lying about
2 miles off the same point, round which it is necessary to pass as close as possible ;
caution is therefore necessary. The current, too, he observes, frequently sets very
strong round these islands to the westward.*
Along the east side of Pulo Brasse there are 20 to 25 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a
moderate distance from the shore, where ships may occasionally anchor; and with the
outer islet bearing S. f W., distant 2 miles, there are 23 fathoms.
BENGAL PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Brasse and Pulo Way, is about Bengal Pas-
4 leagues wide, and very convenient for ships sailing from Achen to the northward, as ^^"^'
the current generally sets out in that direction ; but those bound into the road seldom
proceed through this passage, unless with a steady commanding breeze, there being no
anchorage in it except near Pulo Brasse ; the Malacca Passage is thought preferable.
Ships coming from the S. Westward sometimes use the Surat Passage, but the Bengal
Passage is favourable for ships bound out from Achen Road to the westward, as the
current in the S. W. monsoon sets round Pulo Brasse to the westward, frequently
from 25 to 40 miles in 24 hours.
PULO NANCY nearly joins to the S. E. point of Pulo Brasse ; but between them, Puio Nancy.
on the west side, lies Middle Island, of considerable size, with some islets or rocks near
it on the south side. Contiguous to the west point of Pulo Nancy there is a reef of
rocks, which bounds the west end of Cedar Passage on the north side, having 10 and
12 fathoms close to it outside, and 14 fathoms betwixt it and the point of Pulo Nancy,
although it lies near that point.
CEDAR, or SEDRE PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Nancy to the northward, cednr Passage.
and Stony Island and Pulo Gomez to the southward, is little frequented, although
wider than the Surat Passage and safer than generally supposed, there being soundings
in it from 17 to 20 fathoms in mid-channel. The only dangers are at the west
entrance, rocks projecting from Pulo Gomez to the westward, on which the sea breaks
high in bad weather, and the rocks on the north side close to the west point of Pulo
Nancy already mentioned ; there is also a reef that projects from the west end of Stony
Island to the N. Westward a considerable way into the channel. If a ship proceed
through this passage, it will be prudent to keep a boat a-head, sounding occasionally.
On the south side of Pulo Nancy, a little more than a mile inside the west point,
there is good anchorage in 6 or 7 to 10 fathoms in a small bay, on the west side of
which, fresh water may be procured and plenty of firewood. Tiie narrowest part of
the passage is betwixt the reef projecting from the west end of Stony Island and the
shore of Pulo Nancy, and there it is about a mile broad. Between that reef and the
* Nautical Magazine for 1839, p. 84.
64
ISLANDS AND PASSAGES NEAR ACHEN.
N. E. end of Piilo Gomez there are 14 and 16 fathoms in a channel of communication
from Cedar Passage into the Surat Passage. Stony Island and Pulo Chinchin are
steep on the north sides, having from il to 14 fathoms close to them : from the east
point of Pulo Nancy rocks project a little way, and close to them there are 15 fathoms
water.
Sumt Passage
and contiguous
land.
SURAT PASSAGE is separated on the north side from Cedar Passage, by Pulo
Gomez, Stony Island, and Pulo Chinchin, which extend in the line of the passages,
and the two latter are chained together by rocks. On the south side it is bounded by
Ariien Head, the wcstcm extremity of the land called Achen Head, or King Point, in lat.
5°.'J6' N., and very little to the eastward of Pulo Rondo ; it is a high bluff headland,
and forms the N. Western extremity of Sumatra. In approaching it from the S.W. no
opening is perceived, the contiguous islands, Gomez, Nancy, and Brasse, appearing to
join the mainland when seen from that direction. To the southward of King Point
at 5 miles' distance, on the south side of a low green point, there is asandy bay, which
at a considerable distance may be mistaken for tiie Surat Passage or a strait, the land
there being low near the sea, and covered with trees. In this bay there is a rocky islet,
and at its south point two rocks above water on which the sea breaks, with 12 and 14
fathoms near tiiem, and the bay is lined by a reef fronting the sea. From hence Achen
Head appears like a steep hill ; Pulo Gomez then resembles two paps, its western
point being very low, with an islet adjoining, and breakers projecting a considerable
way to the westward. To avoid these, ships steering for the Surat Passage should keep
nearest to Achen Head, which is bold, with regular soundings 12 and 14 fathoms sandy
bottom at a moderate distance from it ; and they may anchor occasionally, to stop tide,
near that shore in 7 or 8, to 10 fathoms water. The south side of Pulo Gomez is also
safe to approach ; the depths are 24 to 15 fothoms when its south point bears East
from a mile to half a mile, 18 fathoms with it E. by N. 2 miles, 14 fathoms when
E. by N. three-quarters of a mile, 1.3 fathoms when it bears E.N. E. about 1 mile;
and regular soundings, from 20 to 35 fathoms, extend about 2 leagues to the westward
of it and Achen Head.
If a ship about to enter the Surat Passage find the tide unfavourable, she ought to
anchor under Achen Head until the flood is made, which sets directly through the
passage to the N. Eastward, and the ebb in the opposite direction ; after weighing with
the flood she ought to keep nearest to Achen Head, in passing between it and Pulo
Gomez, where there are regular soundings and good anchoring ground from 10 to 17
fathoms. The narrow gut or gatway, at the east end of the passage formed between
the eastern extremity of Achen Head and the opposite island, is only about 80 or 90
fathom.s wide, with 30 and 35 fathoms rocky bottom, and the tide sets through it with
great rapidity 5 and 6 miles an hour on the springs. If the wind be contrary, a ship
may back and Jill ilwow^h this narrow part, with her head towards the windward shore,
keeping rather nearest to Achen Head, which is perpendicular and steep to ; whereas,
the shore of the opposite island is not so bold. Proceeding to sea in the S.W. mon-
soon, she may enter it with the first of the ebb, with the main-topsail aback and her
head towards the Sumatra shore if the wind is at S.W. ; but the eddies occasioned by
the rapid tides sometimes carry a ship's head round in every direction, when driving
through this narrow pass, particularly in light winds. Being formed between two
points, and of little extent, a ship is soon drifted through ; and as there is anchorage on
each side of the entrance at a small distance, this passage has been sometimes used by
Directions.
SUMATRA, NORTH COAST. — ACHEN.
65
large ships,* but it must always be attended with some risk. Although ships have
been recommended to back and fill through the Surat Passage when the wind is con-
trary, yet the Harriet, Captain Bean, in doing so was carried by the eddies on the
rocks and wrecked. Captain Bradshaw is of opinion that the safest way to proceed
through this passage to the southward with a contrary wind, is to reduce sail to three
topsails when the northern entrance is approached, then keep the ship before the wind,
letting her drift through ; by this means she will be under tiie influence of the helm :
whereas in backing and tilling, should an eddy strike the ship on either bow, she might
be on the rocks before she could be checked by the head yards.
The Castle Eden, bound to Bengal in a fleet, anchored, November 3rd, 1800, at 8 p.m.,
in 13 fathoms, at the west entrance of the Surat Passage. At day-light she weighed
and stood for it with the wind at S. E., shoaling gradually to 7 fathoms, and deepening
afterwards to 25 fathoms no ground. She was in the narrowest part of the passage at
this time, when the tide turned to the S.W., and set her fast astern ; she was per-
mitted to drop into 8 fathoms fine sand, then anchored with Pulo Gomez S. 65° W.,
King's Point from S. 16° W. to the easternmost extreme of the passage N. 75° East.
At 4 P.M. November 4th, she weighed with the flood, and went through the passage,
then steered about E. N. E. to the anchorage at Achen, shoaling from 20 to 10 fathoms
at 6. P.M., when she anchored with the river's mouth bearing S. E. ^ E., distant about
l^ miles. In the Surat Passage, it is high water about 8 hours, on full and change of
moon.
Proceeding:
the Castle
Eden.
of
ACHEN, in lat. 5° 35' N., Ion. 95° 26' E.,t distant about 2^ leagues from the Achen.
eastern end of the Surat Passage, is a considerable town, situated on the banks of a
river, which falls into the sea by several branches, separating the low country into
islands ; and this low plain, formed between the foot of the mountains and the sea, is
partly inundated during the rainy season. This was formerly a place of great trade,
frequented by ships from the difi'erent countries in Europe, as well as those from China
and all parts of India, when the kingdom of Achen was powerful and flourishing ; but
it is now become feeble and much reduced, many of the rajahs or chiefs, who formerly
were tributary to the King of Achen, being now independent. Gold, camphor, pepper,
sulphur, beetle-nut, &c., used to be exported, and there is still some trade carried on by
small vessels from different parts of India, but large ships seldom touch here unless to
procure refreshments. Rice, bullocks, poultry, vegetables, and fruits, may be generally supplies,
got in abundance, and plenty of fresh water. The principal entrance of the river has
a shoal bar, which a boat can hardly pass at low water ; but vessels fiom 20 to 30
tons burthen may enter the river at high water, when the rise of tide is about 7 feet on Tides.
the springs ; high water at 9 hours on full and change of moon, subject to irregularities
from winds or other causes. The common anchorage of the road is in 8 or 9, to 10 or Anchorage.
14 fathoms water, about 2 or 3 miles off the entrance of the river, in lat. 5° 38' N.,
with it bearing S. ^ E. to S. E. Here vessels are sheltered from the S.W. monsoon,
which generally prevails from April to November ; in the other season the easterly
winds are seldom strong, but north-westers happen at limes ; these blow into the
Bengal Passage with great force, and require good ground-tackle to ride secure against
them. In the road and near tiie shore land and sea breezes are often experienced in
* The China fleet, homeward l)ouiid, touched at Achen, and proceeded to sea by the Surat Passage ; the fleet
bound to Bengal also went througli it, and stopped at Achen for water, in November, 1800.
t Captain Basil Hall, R.N., in 1814, made Achen Road in lat. 5^ 36' N., Ion. 95- 24.',E.,bv lunar observations.
Captain Bradshaw made the FlagsUiifin lat. 3" 35' N.
VOL. II. K
66
SUMATRA, NORTH COAST. — GOLDEN MOUNTAIN.
Caution.
both seasons, but the land breezes are very partial, seldom extending beyond the
islands. The king of Achen resides generally at Tulosamaway, and Achen being
seldom visited by him, it has in consequence been little frequented lately by trading
vessels; the chief places of trade to the eastward of Aclien are Pedir, Bourou, and
Tulosamaway, Ships trading here ought to be on their guard, and not put too much
confidence in the people with whom they trade, nor sutler them to be much in their
debt ; when this has been the case, many ships have been cut ofl', as the easiest manner
of settling their engagements.
The king of Achen is often in a state of warfare
is fleet, sometimes consisting of 12 or
with some one or other of his sulijects; and
14 snows and brigs, usually cruize from Tulosamaway round to Soosoo on the west
coast.
The Golden
Mountain.
To sail horn
Achen.
GOLDEN MOUNTAIN, or QUEEN'S MOUNTAIN, situated a little distance
inland, about 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward of Achen, in kit. 5° 27' N., Ion. 95° 47' E.,
or 1° 49' East from the south end of Great Nicobar, by chronometers, is a high regular
cone about 6, .900 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen about 92 miles from
the deck of a ship in clear weather. When it bore S, S.W., distance from us 88 miles,
the summit was seen from the deck a little elevated above the horizon. In clear wea-
ther, this beautiful mountain, when visible, is a good mark for pointing out a ship's
position in entering Malacca Strait, when her distance from the islands is too great to
admit any of them, or the land near Achen Head, to be discerned. There is a small
mountain close to the Golden Mountain, called in some old journals the Orphan :
the natives know these mountains by the appellation of YaMura, Ya Muree.
Ships departing from Achen may, if bound to the northward, pass out by the Bengal,
or Malacca Passage, as circumstances render prudent; those bound to the westward in
the S. W. monsoon miglit venture out by the Surat Passage, if the weather be favour-
able ; but the Bengal Passage is preferable, keeping close to the islets off the north
end of Pulo Brasse, where a current will assist them in getting to the westward. This
has been already observed in the concluding chapter of volume first of this work, where
directions are given for sailing to and from Malacca Strait and Achen in the S. W.
monsoon;* and a general description of winds and currents near Achen Head and the
Nicobar Islands will be found in the section of the same volume which describes
the outer passage to places on either side the Bay of Bengal ; nevertheless, a brief
statement of the prevailing winds and currents may here be of utility.
S.W. mon-
soon.
Cun-ent.
MONSOONS,
THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON generally begins about the end of April, or
rather early in May, between Achen Head and the Nicobar Islands, and abates in
October ; although in October, and also in November, westerly winds frequently pre-
vail. During the strength of this monsoon, from May to September, the weather is
often cloudy, with squalls and heavy showers of rain at times : the current then gene-
rally sets with the wind to the eastward into Malacca Strait, but more commonly to N,
Eastward ; it is, however, liable to change, and set to the southward at times, particu-
larly when the wind is light and veers to the westward. When the current in the S.W.
monsoon is running in betwixt the South Nicobar and the islands oft" Achen, to the
N, Eastward, there is generally a contra or eddy current setting along the coast of
* See also directions relative to sailing to, or from Achen, in the two sections of this work, where Rangoon
and Mergui Rivers are described.
MONSOONS BETWEEN ACHEN AND THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.
67
t
of the Strait of
INIalacHM (luring
the S. W. mon-
soon.
Pedir to the westward, which continues to set in that direction amongst the Achen
Islands to seaward : therefore, all ships bound from Malacca to the westward should To work ou
in this season keep near the coast of Pedir, and after reaching' Achen they may go out
by the Surat Passage, if the weather be very favourable, or through the Bengal Pas-
sage in preference, observing to keep close round the islets off the north end of Pulo
Brasse, then take every advantage to tack with the shifts of wind favourable for get-
ting to the S. Westward.
The King George, by beating in the open sea between Pulo Rondo and the Nicobars, Passages of
in July, 179], was 14 days getting a few leagues to the westward of Pulo Brasse; had ^'^™"''»' ^'"p*-
she passed inside of Pulo Way, and proceeded through the Bengal Passage, she pro-
bably would have saved most of that time.
The Worcester, in May, 1795, bound to Bencoolen. working in the same manner, too
far out from Sumatra, could not get round Achen Head, and returned to Prince of
Wales Island. She sailed again from thence June I6th, steered along the Pedir Coast,
anchored at Achen on the 26th, and from that place got speedily out of the Strait, by
passing close round Pulo Brasse.
Many other ships have been greatly delayed by endeavouring to work out between
the Nicobars and Pulo Rondo, against strong winds and N. Easterly currents in the
S. W. monsoon ; not knowing that a favourable current generally prevails close to the
Sumatra coast, and among the islands.
X.E. mon-
soon.
THE NORTH-EAST MONSOON mostly prevails in the entrance of Malacca
Strait, between Achen Head and the Nicobar Islands, from November to May, which
is the fair season. In October and November the winds are variable, frequently at
N. W. and West; although in some seasons the N. E. winds set in regularly in
November. From this period to March, the N. E. monsoon is strongest, but at times
it is liable to veer to the northward or N. W. ; and westerly breezes, of one or two days'
duration, have been experienced in every month when the N. E. monsoon should
prevail. Late in March, or early in April, the N. E. and northerly winds become
light and variable. When the N. E. monsoon blows steadily, the current generally runs
with the wind out of the strait to the westward. When the -wind draws to the north-
ward, the current a little outside the Achen Islands sets to the southward between current.
them and the Nicobars ; and when the wind veers to West or S. W. it generally runs
into the strait, or to the North-eastward ; so that the current there is, in its direction
and velocity, mostly governed by the wind. This is, however, not always the case, for
at times the current is found to run obliquely, or contrary to the wind, requiring the
navigator to be cautious when no observations are obtained for the latitude, more
particularly when running for the entrance of the strait during thick weather in the
S. W. monsoon.
In the entrance of Malacca Strait, near the Nicobar and Achen Islands, and betwixt
them and Junkseylon, there are often very strong ripplings, particularly in the S. W. Rippiingsof
monsoon ; these are alarming to persons unacquainted, for the broken water makes a
great noise when a ship is passing through the ripplings in the night. In most places,
ripplings are thought to be produced by strong currents, but here they are frequently
seen when there is no perceptible current. Although there is often no perceptible cur-
rent experienced, so as to produce an error in the course and distance sailed, yet the
surface of the water is impelled forward by some undiscovered cause. The ripplings
are seen in calm weather approaching from a distance, and in the night their noise is
heard a considerable time before they come near. They beat against the sides of a ship
K 2
the sea.
68
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Directions.
Passage of
several sliips.
with great violence, and pass on, the spray sometimes coming- on deck, and a small
boat could not always resist the turbulence of these remarkable ripplings.
Ships leaving- the strait in October or November, when westerly winds are found to
prevail, should follow the track already recommended for ships bound out in the S.W.
monsoon, that they may benefit by the westerly set on the coast of Pedir, and among
the islands, or at least avoid the current running into the strait in the ofling.
The Thames, in November, 1800, bound out of the strait to Europe, had the winds
from S. W., with a current setting- in between Fulo Rondo and the South Nicobar,
which prevented her getting out to the southward of the latter ; she was therefore
obliged to stand to the North-westward, and passed out betwixt Car-Nicobar and the
Little Andaman : from thence she made a good passage to St. Helena.*
The Camden, from Prince of Wales Island, in 1805, could not get out to sea between
Pulo Rondo and the Nicobars, owing to light winds, and currents setting into the
strait; and she was obliged to bear away, November 5th, for Prince of Wales Island,
to get an additional supply of provisions.
The Rockingham and tleet having- arrived at Achen by the Surat Passage, remained
there eight days, procuring- water and other necessary supplies. November 15th, 1800,
she sailed from thence through the Bengal Passage, with a current setting out of it, and
on the following- day, having been close hauled with the wind at W. S. W. and S. W.,
made the Nicobar bearing W. ^ N., distant 8 leagues, the current having- run 44 miles
to the N. Eastward during the 24 hours.
FROM ACHEN HEAD TO BANCOONGONG BAY.
West coast of
(if Sumatra.
Coast from
Achen Head
southward.
Coral Bank.
FROM ACHEN HEAD, the general direction of the west coast of Sumatra to
Flat Point, its southern extremity in lat. 5° 55' S., is about S. E. ^ S., and the distance
294 leagues, the equator dividing it nearly in ecpial parts. Numerous small islands
and dangerous shoals are interspersed along different parts of this extensive coast, and
a chain of large islands, farther out, stretches parallel to it, at the distance of 18 or 20
leagues, between some of which islands there are safe channels.
About 4 or 5 leagues nearly S. ^ E. of Achen Head, on the north side of a small
point of land, is a cove called Siddo Harbour, where cattle may be obtained ; and from
12 to 25 fathoms are good depths to preserve in coasting along. Off this place, and
to the northward, lie some rocky islets at a small distance, the largest of which is called
Pulo Roosa ; and 3 leagues farther southward lies Saddle Island, with contiguous
rocks above water, distant 1 or 2 miles from the shore. There is a peaked hill inland,
to the eastward of Saddle Island, and two bays between it and Siddo Point.
In about lat. 5°0'N. there is a bank of coral and sand, about 3 or 4 leagues off
shore, said to have 5 fathoms water on it, and 30 fathoms close to it all round. Capt.
Bennet says, it bears about N. W. from Pulo Roosa, with only 4 fathoms rocks on it
* Captain Williains, of the Thames, observes, that notwithstanding he beat down the China Sea against the
S. W. monsoon in August and September, had he not lost much time in endeavouring to work round the islands
off Achen Head, he probably would have reached St. Helena as soon as the ships which had left China about two
months before him, and pursued the eastern route.
rections.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 69
in some places, and that he had passed over it several times in a small vessel. Capt.
Ashmore had 7 fathoms on the southern part of this bank, about 9 miles W. | S. from
the body of Pulo Rhio, and he crossed it several times in from 10 to 13 fathoms, be-
tween tliis situation and lat. 5° 19'N., and states it to be a ridge, about three-quarters of a
mile in breadth, extending parallel to the coast nearly as far as Achen Head, having
29 and 30 fathoms ooze on the inside, and a little outside, no ground.
OOJONG DAHVVAY is a bold rocky headland, in lat. 5° 5' N., from which point oojong
a survey of the coast, as far to the southward as Rigas, was made by Mr. James D. ^^^^'^y
Gilles, in 1834, who gives the following directions for the Pepper Ports comprehended
in that interval.
"About half a mile W. by S. from Oojong Dahway lies a cluster of rocks above Mr. ciiiesdi-
water, called Battoo Booroo ; there appears to be a clear passage between them and
the point, in which we got one cast of 12^ fathoms, hard bottom ; these rocks are
steep to all round, except on the N.W. part, where a coral reef extends off about a
quarter of a mile.'"
" A bay is formed between Oojong Dahway and Oojong Po, the next point to the
S. E., where there is probably safe anchorage in a N.W. wind."
" OOJOJNG PO is formed by two peninsulas; the outer one, which is the extre- Oojong Po
mity of the point, is a small, round, green hill without trees, and less elevated than
Oojong Dahway ; the surf generally breaks over the rocks which join it to the inner
peninsula. On the shore of the bay above mentioned, about half-way between the
points, is Timbegah Hill, which is very remarkable, standing close to the water's edge,
with no high hill near it, and can be seen at a great distance."
" FROM OOJONG PO TO DIAH there is a coral reef, with from 2 to 8 fathoms, oojong i\, to
projecting about a mile from the shore, with 14 fathoms mud near the outer edge.
There appears to be safe anchorage off Diah, with Diah River (called Quala Lambas-
soa) N. N. E. and Pulo Limpan East one mile, in 12 fathoms mud."
" The land near the shore, from Diah to the village of No, in lat. 4° 55' N., is quite
low ; the high land, however, approaches near the coast, leaving only a narrow strip of
low land not perceptible in some places from the offing." Between Oojong Dahway
and Oojong Soobahng the soundings are deficient, and therefore a good look-out is
here necessary.
" PULO LIMPAN, though quite small and lying close to the main, is easily dis- PiJoMmpan.
tinguished from the offing by its reddish cliffs, about 60 feet high, and the cluster of trees
on its summit. It bears S. by E. | E., 2 miles from Diah River. A coral shoal pro-
jects from it to the westward a short distance. Pulo Limpan is an excellent mark, and
one that it is scarcely possible to mistake."
BARBAH WEE BAY, formed by the points Oojong Soobahng, or Goobah, and Barbah wee
Oojong Barbah Pahroa, has several coral slioals in it, rendering an approach to it ^^^'
difficult and dangerous to a stranger. The one off Soobahng Point to the S.W., and
which extends about a mile from it, has only 12 feet on it, and generally breaks. This
shoal is called by the natives, Loongcarp* Soobahng. There is another shoal bearing
* Loongcarp in the Aclienese language signifies literally a shoal that breaks, but is applied exclusively to
shoals which are detached.
70 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
West, three-quarters of a mile from a point (Oojong Chenam Proeng) in the middle of
the shore of the bay. The least water on this shoal is 25 fathoms, with 9 or 10 fathoms
near it on the outside. But the most extensive and most dangerous shoal, lying very
much in the way of vessels, is the one off Barbah Pahroa Point, called Loongcarp
Barbah Pahroa. Its centre bears from this point W. by N., the outer extremity 2
miles distant. It is a mile in extent East and West, and three-quarters of a mile in
breadth. Between the shoal and the point there is a clear passage with 14 fathoms
mid-channel, muddy bottom. The least water found on this shoal by Mr. Gillis was
16^ feet, although he thinks there may be less in some places. It breaks very heavily
when there is any swell. There is a shoal projecting about 200 fathoms from Barbah
Pahroa Point.
The best anchorage in Barbah Wee Bay is with Barbah Pahroa Point S. E. by S.
and Chenam Proeng Point N. E. by E. ^ E., in 11 fathoms, soft clay.
" A stranger should not attempt to enter this bay without some one who knew for a
certainty the names of the points, as both Soobahng and Chenam Proeng Points are
low, and have nothing remarkable to distinguish them." The former, however, may be
known by being about a mile S. S. E. of Pulo Limpan.
" To pass between the shoals, bring Chenam Proeng Point to bear E. ^ N., and keep
it in this bearing until Pulo Limpan bears N. by E. ; a direct course about E. ^ S., or
E. by S., may then be steered for the anchorage."
*' Coming from the southward with a free wind, it seems advisable to pass between
Pahroa Point and the shoal ; in which case Pulo Limpan should be kept N. 4 W.
until Pahroa Point bears E. by S., then steer direct for the anchorage. With a south-
erly wind and a northerly current a vessel passing outside would be liable to be swept
down on Soobahng Shoal. There are four villages in the bay."
" Between Pahroa Point and Pulo Riah there appears to be no danger but what is
visible, except close to the shore."
" It may be proper to observe, that the inhabitants of Barbah Wee Bay and Diah
are considered less worthy of confidence than any others on the coast."
I'liio Riah. " PULO RIAH is about 3f miles in circumference, and about 300 or 400 feet high,
covered with trees, and has a level appearance at a distance. On the South and S.W.
sides there are several rocky cliffs, from 30 to 80 feet high. Pulo Riah may be known
by the small islet, called Pulo Mahnay, close to its western extremity, with 18 coco-
nut trees on it (March, 1834). This islet is yellow sand-stone, having cliflTs about
40 feet high. Pulo Riah is surrounded by a coral reef which always breaks, and
which projects in some places two cables' lengths from the shore. There is no pepper
produced on the island, and its inhabitants have no connection with those on the
main."*
In the bay formed by Pulo Riah and the coast to the northward there are several
pepper ports on the main ; the principal one is called Telloo Crooet, bearing E. ^ N.,
2 miles from Pulo Mahnay. The usual anchorage for taking pepper at this port is on
the N. W. side of Pulo Riah ; but a vessel may lie on the S. E. side quite as near the
town, and be sheltered from the N. W. winds. A vessel bound to Telloo Crooet from
the northward may pass mid-way between the N. W. point of Pulo Riah and the main,
and anchor with Pulo Mahnay S. W. and the eastern extremity of Pulo Riah S. S. E.
f E. in about 9^ fathoms, mud. Bound in from the southward, Pulo Mahnay should
* It is stated in the former edition of this work, apparently on the authority of Captain Bradshaw, that Pulo
Rhio yields from 2,000 to 3,000 pecules of pepper annually.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 71
not be rounded nearer than a third of a mile ; when Telloo Crooet Point is seen, or
when Pulo Mahnay bears E. by S., a direct course may be steered for the anchorage.
It is not advisable to anchor nearer to Telloo Crooet than the above anchorage, as the
bottom a little farther in becomes sandy. In this position, with a N.W, gale in case
of parting or driving, there is a chance of escape through the passage between the
island and the main. The distance between them is about one-third of a mile, but the
passage is made quite narrow by three or four small rocks, each about the size of a hay-
cock, lying near the surface, with from 2 to 6 feet on them. They are about mid-channel,
near the N.W. part of the passage. Close to the rocks, on the side nearest to Pulo
Riah, there are 7 fathoms, increasing to 8 and 9, irregular soundings towards the
island ; within 60 or 70 fathoms of the sandy point (the N. E. point of the island) it
shoals suddenly to 3^ and 2 fathoms. A vessel passing through this channel should
keep about a quarter of the width of the passage from the island (counting from the
trees); at this distance, passing from the N. W., there will be 8, 9, 7, IH, and 7
fatiioms, probably not less than 7. Between the rocks and a point of sand, which ex-
tends 30 fathoms from the main, there are about 4f fathoms, coral; and a ridge of coral,
with 4^ and 5 fathoms, extends from the rock in a S.S. E. direction parallel to the
main nearly through the passage. Pulo Mahnay is in lat. 4° -52' N.
" BARBAH NEPAH POINT, called also Oojong Glass, may be known by its Barbai, N>i.ah
ash-coloured cliffs, and by a small rock separated a few feet from the point; also being ''°'"'-
the first point S. E. of Pulo Riah. A vessel may anchor anywhere between Barbah
Nepah Point and this island. Barbah Nepah village is about half a mile inside the
point. There is a river close to the village, with good water. Between the river and
point coral reefs extend about a quarter of a mile oft' shore." To take pepper at
Barbah Nepah, a vessel may anchor with the point bearing S. S. E., distant about
three-quarters of a mile, in 10 fathoms, mud. This pepper port belongs to Telloo
Crooet.
" Between Barbah Nepah Point and Pulo Cass, at a moderate distance from the
shore, not coming under 10 fathoms, there appears no danger."
" PULO CASS is considerably elevated, and, like all the islands between Pulo I'uio cass.
Riah and Catapang Pahse, is a mass of black rocks, having the appearance of iron ore,
and covered with trees. The S. W. part is much higher than the N. E., and bearing
S. E. it resembles a spoon with a short handle, bottom upwards; from the N.W. point
(on the outside) to the S. E. point it is quite steep, having 10 fathoms, mud, close to the
rocks. From the N. W. point (on the inside) to the S. E. point there is a coral reef
projecting from 10 to 50 fathoms from the island, farthest from the part next Pulo
Kecheel ; in most places the edge of the reef is distinctly visible, with f) or (i fathoms
close to it. The anchorage is safe all round this island, but the best is with the S. E.
point of the island about \V. S. W., in 7^ fathoms, mud, rather nearer to the island than
the main, to avoid a sand-spit which projects a short distance from the shore. Here
a vessel is sheltered from all winds that blow with much violence on this coast, and in
weighing may pass out on either side of the island, passing out to the N. W. from the
anchorage ; the least water, keeping mid-channel, will be 5^ fathoms in the most nar-
row part between Patty Point and the N. E. point of the island. Bound into the
anchorage, do not round the S. E. point of Pulo Cass at a less distance than 50 fathoms,
as the reef extends from the point about 30 or 40 fathoms, with 3 fathoms on it, having
9^ fathoms close to the outer edge."
72
SUMATRA, WEST COAST,
Patty. " PATTY is a small pepper port inside Pulo Cass; joining the town is a small
green hill covered with coco-nut trees, which can be seen some distance from the
southward."
Pulo Keclieel.
The Pehjabali
Islands.
Telloo Goo-
kimpung.
" PULO KECHEEL is a small islet, with trees on it, about half a mile from Pulo
Cass ; a range of 20 rocks above water project in a straight line from Pulo Kecheel ;
in a westerly direction, about a quarter of a mile, there are 7 fathoms close to the outer
one. On the side next Pulo Cass there are 3 or 4 fathoms coral close to them,
deepening with some regularity towards that island ; but the bottom is hard, at least
half-way, and the vessel anchoring on this side of Pulo Cass should keep nearer to the
island than the rocks, where the bottom is soft, in 8| fathoms. We lay several days
outside, with Pulo Cass bearing about East, distant 1 mile, in 12 fathoms excellent
holding ground."
" From Pulo Cass to the Pehjabah Islands there appears to be no danger. About
If miles S. S. E. from Pulo Cass I found a rocky bank, least water 8f fathoms, but the
natives say there are 7 fathoms ; the extent of this bank in a N.W. and S. E. direction
is about 1 mile. This was the only time that I got a cast of hard bottom 1 mile from the
shore, between Diah and Catappang Pahse, excepting the shoals placed on the chart."
"THE PEHJABAH ISLANDS form the harbour of Telloo Goolumpung (one
of the most considerable pepper ports on this part of the coast) ; they are distant about
1 mile from the main, are quite small, and lie close togetljer. The largest is called
Pehjabah Besar ; the smallest and outer one is called Pehjabah Kecheel. They are
bntii about the same height ; the smallest has a round appearance on top, with a smooth
outline, the trees being more uniform in height than on the other, which has several high
trees on it, giving it a more irregular appearance. There is a> coral reef, with 2 fathoms,
extending about 150 fathoms from the inside of these islands. S. 6° W., distant 200
fathoms from the outer island, is a rock 15 or 20 feet high, with 1 1 fathoms close to it on
the outside ; there is also another rock, nearly even with the water's edge, which always
breaks, bearing S. 11° E. from the same island. Inside the Pehjabahs near the main
is Pulo Cleung ; this island is larger and higher than the Pehjabahs, about 300 or 400
feet high, but, lying close to the main, is not so conspicuous as those islands : it is bold
all round, except on the inside, and, like the Pehjabahs, is covered with trees. Telloo
Goolumpung Point, or peninsula, is a green hill, about as high as Pulo Cleung, with
only a few scattered trees and a house on the summit. Like all the islands in this
vicinity, it is based with rocky cliflTs, and is connected with the main by a low sandy
isthmus, and at some bearings has the appearance of an island."
"TELLOO GOOLUMPUNG.— Vessels bound to Telloo Goolumpung usually pass
between the Pehjabahs and Pulo Epoo Cheechem. The only danger in the way is the
small rock before mentioned, which bears from the little Pehjabah S. 11° E., distant
rather more than a third of a mile : it always breaks, and there are 10 fathoms close to
it. Telloo Goobnnping Point has 8 fathoms on the outside close to the cliffs. The best
anchorage at Telloo Goolumpung is with the Pehjabahs N.W. and Pulo Cleung N.E.
by N., in 10 fathoms mud and sand ; but in shipping pepper it is customary to anchor
much nearer the town on a line from Telloo Goolumpung Point to Pulo Cleung, about
half-way, in 8 fathoms. A vessel lying here from April to September should moor
with two heavy anchors to the N.W., as the bottom is sand, and there is no room to
drive, nor means of slipping and putting to sea."
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
73
Pulo Chee-
chem.
Pulo Epoo
Cheeehem.
" PULO CHEECHEM is a high bluff land, similar in appearance on most bearings
to a Scotch cap ; rocks above water extend in a S. S. E. direction, from the S. E. part
about a cable's length, with 8.7 fathoms close to the outer rock. There is also a coral
reef, with 2 fathoms, extending about 150 fathoms from the N. E. part of the island."
" PULO EPOO CHEECHEM, which is situated to the westward of Pulo Chee-
ehem, within 150 fathoms, is much lower than the latter island, and is not visible above
the horizon when Cheeehem is seen distinctly. Bearing about N. N. E., or from the
opposite point, it resembles a gunner's quoin, though the outline is rather uneven.
It has 10 and 11 fathoms elose to on the outside. East from Pulo Cheeehem about
three-quarters of a mile are three black rocks, having 5^ and 7 fathoms close to them;
there are no rocks or shoals near them on the outside ; on the inside there are a few
small rocks even with the water's edge."
" RAHNOO, a considerable pepper port belonging to Selloo Goolumpung, is Kaimoo.
situated about S. 72° E., 1^ miles from Pulo Cheeehem. The best anchorage at this
port is with Pulo Cheeehem N. 35° W., and the southern black rock N. 50° E., in
10 fathoms mud and sand, distant 1 mile W. 7° S. from Rahnoo Nearu to the town ;
the bottom is sand, and 1 had several casts of coral and shells." " The natives will
insist upon the vessels coming much nearer ; but in general anchoring on this coast the
safety of the vessel should be considered more than the convenience of shipping pepper,
as there are few ports on the coast of Sumatra where the natives will furnish more
pepper in a day than can be easily shipped if the vessel lies within about li miles."
" About half a mile to the southward of Rahnoo is a small island, called " PULO
EPOO RAHNOO, to distinguish it from Pulo Epoo Cheeehem ; though lying
within a few fathoms of the shore, and joined to it by rocks, it is considered an
island and distinct from the coast, it being so entirely different, the shore from
Telloo Goolumpung Point to Rigas being quite low, the trees growing close to the sandy
beach." Pulo Epoo Rahnoo, on the contrary, is a pile of rocks, about 50 feet high,
of a kind similar to the other islands, with trees on the summit; there is also a rock
above water nearly joining the island on the N.W. side. A knowledge of this island
is useful, to take bearings to avoid a dangerous rock which bears from it W. 17° S., dis-
tant three-quarters of a mile, and which seldom breaks. I examined this shoal twice,
and found the least water at spring tides 11 feet. The shoalest part is not more than
20 or 30 fathoms in extent, and very ragged and uneven, with 11 and 1 14^ fathoms mud
close to the outer edge; it probably is not coral, as the bottom could not be seen, but
similar to the rocks above water in this neighbourhood. When on the shoalest part
the outer points of Pulo Epoo Cheeehem and Pulo Pehjabah Kecheel were exactly
in a line ; by keej)ing the Pehjabah in sight to the westward of Pulo Epoo Cheeehem,
you will be sure to be outside, and when Pulo Epoo Rahnoo and the peak of Rigas
hill are in one about a quarter of a mile to the S. E. of the shoal. There is also a
cluster of rocks above water bearing S. 8° W. from Pulo Epoo Rahnoo, distant about
one-third of a mile ; close to them, on the outside, are 8 and 9 fathoms. Between Pulo
Epoo Rahnoo and Rigas Point there is a bay, full of coral shoals ; in this bay is a small
pepper port, called Jahbee."
Pulo Epoo
Rahnoo.
RIGAS POINT, or OOJONG BAHROOS, is a low rocky point, covered with
1, the extremity a little more elevated than the land joining it; a short distance
VOL. II. L
Rigas Point, or
Oojong Bali-
roos.
74 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
back there are one or two hills with a number of scattered trees. In the direction of
Pulo Cap, near the point, there are 8j fathoms hard bottom ; one quarter of a mile
farther in the same direction there are 10 fathoms mud. From the point towards
Rigas Bay the shore is lined with a coral reef as far as Oojong Ramboon. About
half a mile from Rigas Point it projects in one place 200 fathoms from the shore;
this part is dry in some places, with a small detached rock, which always breaks.
Oojong Ramboon is a steep hill, forming the N.W. point of Rigas Bay; the passage
between it and Roosum is about a quarter of a mile wide, with several rocks above
water."
Huiocap. or " PULO CAP, or PULO RANGAS, known to the natives only by the latter
Pulo Rangas. j^^^^g — (when inquiry is made for Pulo Cap they suppose Pulo Cass is meant) — is a pile
of rocks, 50 or 60 feet high, covered with trees, several of wliich are lofty."
" The frequent rains on this coast cover every thing with vegetation ; large trees are
seen growing on rocks where there is apparently little or no soil, and every mountain
is closely crowded with lofty trees from the base to the summit. The highest trees on
Pulo Cap are just visible in a clear day at 17J miles' distance, the eye at an elevation
of 20 feet. On the inside of the island, next the main, there is a coral bank, with 3|
and 5 fathoms projecting a cable's length, with 12 fathoms close to the outer edge.
Near the N.W. point, distant 90 fathoms, is a small rock, which always breaks ; on
every other side it is bold, having 12 and 13 fathoms close to it."
••' A vessel may anchor on either side of Pulo Cap within a quarter of a mile, to take
shelter from a N.W. or S. E. wind, in about 12 and 13 fathoms, mud. On the S. E.
side there are two high rocks, nearly joining the island, steep to all round. There is
also good anchorage anywhere inside of Pulo Cap, in the direction of Rigas Point,
orthePahse Rock, level clear bottom 11 and 11^ fathoms, olive-coloured mud and fine
sand. We lay 12 days at a single anchor, surveying Rigas harbour and coast half-way
between Pulo Cap and the Pahse Rock, in IH fathoms, blowing fresh at times from
the southward with a strong lee current. Though the bottom is not soft, we found
some difficulty when we weighed anchor in breaking ground."
" Between Pulo Cap and the main are three small rocks, about 3 or 4 feet high. The
nearest one to this island, bearing E. by S., distant half a mile, is called Cap Rock ;
the one which lies within three-quarters of a mile of Pulo Roosum, Roosum Rock ;
the third, which bears from the west point of the large Pahse S. 43° W., distant half a
mile, is called Pahse Rock. These rocks give the place a dangerous appearance ; but
there is no more danger than if they were so many wharfs, as there is deep water
within 5 or 6 fathoms of them all round. About N. 25° W., a quarter of a mile from
Roosum Rock, is a small steep rock, with 2| fathoms ; but this is not in the way of
vessels."
Rigas Islands. " RIGAS IS LANDS.— PULO ROOSUM, the largest of these islands, is about
Pulo Roosum. [,alf a mile long, and lies across the entrance to Rigas Bay; it is high on the outside,
with steep rocky cliflfe, and covered with trees : on the inside there is a small space of
low land with a number of coco-nut trees. Pulo Engahng (pronounced as nearly
as possible as one syllable) is the next considerable island ; it is a pile of steep rocks, also
covered with trees. Pulo Sammote is low, with no rocky cliff's, and has a number of
trees on it. Pulo Poogahse is a rock, or rather two rocks joined ; on the top are a
few bushes or small trees ; nearly all the land outside or near a vessel in the harbour
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 75
is high ; the only marshy land is on the main at the N. E. part of the bay. Chellung
Peninsula is higher than the islands, being 400 or 500 feet in height, with lofty rocky
clifi's. Like all the land in the vicinity of Rigas (excepting that under cultivation), it
is closely covered w ith trees from the summit down to the clifts : it is joined to the
main by a low sandy isthmus, and appears very much like an island. The part called
Oojong Chellung forms the southern point of Rigas Bay."
" OOJOONG BATTOO TOOTUNG is abont five-eighths of a mile inside Chel- oojon,- Battoo
lung Point ; it is also rocky and high : between these points is a cove, one-third of a "r""'"""-
mile deep, with a sandy beach."
" RIGAS HARBOUR is formed by Pulo Engahng, Pulo Sammote, and Oojong Rigas Hai-
Battoo Tootung, the depths from 4 to 6 fathoms; it is about half a mile in length and ''°"'"
one-third of a mile in breadth : though this bay is 4 or 5 miles in circumference, this
is the only anchorage where a vessel can lie in safety ; nearly the whole of the
remainder is covered with coral reefs, dry in many places at low water. Inside Pulo
Roosum, between the reefs which join that island and those extending from Pulo
Poogahse, there is a clear space, with 3^ and 4 fathoms, sand, where there is sufficient
room for a vessel to heave down, and where the water is always smooth. By buoying
the channel, a vessel could be warped in between Roosum and Engahng ; there is
also a passage round the north side of Roosum, but more difhcult of access. About
East from the anchorage in the harbour, near Oojong Battoo Tootung, is a small cove,
where a vessel might heave down to the rocks on the shore."
" The town of Rigas is on the N. W. side of the bay; it is a considerable pepper
port, with the small ports of Chellung, Battoo Tootung, Jahbee, and Pahng-ah,
attached to it. Battoo Tootung village is in Rigas Bay, Chellung village is on the
shore of a bay inside the Pahse Islet ; there are many coco-nut trees near this village,
and a fort on a hill, which can be seen outside the Pahse Islets."
" A vessel bound to Rigas should pass between the Pahse Rocks and Pulo Cap.
The entrance to the harbour is between Pulo Roosum and Oojong Chellung : there
is nothing in the way except a small rock, which bears from Oojong Chellung N, 64°
W., distant a little more than half a mile. This may be avoided by keeping the south-
ern point of Pulo Sammote (bearing about N. E. by N.) in sight to the southward of
Pulo Engahng. This will carry you mid-way between the rock and Chellung Point;
when within about half a mile of the point, keep more to the eastward, passing about
100 fathoms to the southward of Pulo Engahng, or you may bring Oojong Chellung
to bear N. E., and steer directly for it, passing it at any convenient distance, as it is quite
bold, having 7 fathoms close to it ; from that depth it gradually shoals to the anchorage,
which is in about 5:j fathoms, mud, with the southern extremity of Pulo Engahng
S. 64° W. and Oojoong Battoo Tootung S. E., distant about 150 fathoms. This point
may be known by its being the first after passing Oojong Tellung, and also by its
being the eastern part of a cove formed by these points, whicii will be passed by a
vessel entering the harbour. A mark for the anchorage is to bring Pulo Poogahse in
a line with the entrance of Rigas bazaar and the southern extremity of Pulo Engahng,
as above, S. 64° W. Between Pulo Engahng and Pulo Sammote there is a line of
coral reefs (dry in some places at low water), which forms the IN.W. boundary of the
anchorage."'
" A vessel in Rigas Harbour is nearlv land-locked, and it is considered one of the
' L 2
40
76 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
best on the coast ; it is, however, well known to be one of the most unhealthy ; and
being so regarded, it was thought important to find a safe place to anchor outside
where it would be convenient to ship pepper, supposing such an anchorage, where
the vessel would have the pure sea-breeze, would be as healthy as any part of the
coast."
" We found a place inside Roosum Rock (as will be seen by reference to the plan
of Rigas Bay), where the bottom was very fine olive-coloured sand, or sand and mud :
we did not get a single cast of any other kind of bottom near the anchorage, which is
with Roosum Rock bearing S. 76° W., distant 200 fathoms, and the extremity of the
rocks on Rigas Point just touching the inner point of the Pehjabah Besar in 9
fathoms."
" A vessel appears to be very near the Roosum Rock, but as she swings in that
direction only with the land wind, no wind from that quarter can ever force her on it
if she be moored with a good scope, which should be done without delay, as the cur-
rents and variable winds will soon foul the anchor. From October to April the heavy
anchor should be placed to the southward and stream to the N. W., and the reverse
after April has commenced, as the N.W. are then expected. A buoy placed as a mark
to anchor would be useful previous to entering this anchorage."
" A vessel here will be precisely the same distance from the town of Rigas as at the
anchorage in the harbour, about 1^ miles ; and though we had fresh breezes from the
southward, the boats had no difficulty in bringing off" pepper. This anchorage is not near
so safe in a gale as the harbour, but at other times quite as much so. On this coast gales
are of rare occurrence, and they seldom blow directly on shore, but more frequently
along the coast. With N. Westers (which, with few exceptions, are the only winds that
blow with much violence) there probably would not be so much sea but that a vessel
could ride with safety. If there should be, there is abundance of room to slip and go
into the harbour or to go to sea, passing on either side the Pahse Rock, At such a
time, the position of the small rock which lies in a line with the harbour would be as
well known by its constantly breaking as if it were above water. A vessel out of sea-
son for pepper, and waiting for the crop, which is frequently the case, should, by all
means, lie outside the harbour until the pepper is ready. Should the anchorage inside
Roosum Rock be considered unsafe, she may anchor anywhere inside Pulo Cap ; but
the best place appears to be between Cap and Roosum Rocks, where the bottom is
soft, and where it would be convenient to communicate with the town. Telloo Goo-
lumpung, Pulo Riah, and all the ports in this vicinity, are quite healthy."
" In passing to and from the shore, boats should be cautious to avoid a coral spit
which projects from the N.W. part of Pulo Roosum. This breaks sometimes, with
intervals of 10 or 15 minutes ; also a small rock, which lies near the edge of the reef,
between Rigas and Ramboon Points: this is nearly even with the water's edge, but
when the sea is smooth it breaks only once in 8 or 10 minutes."
HigasHiu, or " RIGAS HILL, or BOOKET QUALLY. — This is oneof the best marks on the
BooketQuaiiy. ^Qjjgj. ^f Sumatra ; it is very high, and can be seen off' deck in clear weather 43 miles.
It has no high hill near it, and is easily known : nearly the whole of the south side is
cleared, and has the appearance of land under cultivation. The Peak is covered with
trees, and bears from Rigas town about N. by W., distant 1^ miles. Bearing about
S. E. it makes two peaks, the northern one lower and smaller than the other, each
side of the hill sloping very gradually, the S. E. terminating in Rigas Bay; bearing
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 77
N.W., it makes with only 07ie peak, the sides appearing nnuch steeper than" when
bearing S. E. This hill can be seen in clear weather near Oojong Booboon ; it then
appears to be the western extremity of the coast, standing out separate and distinct
like an island."
" THE PAHSE ISLETS are two small groups of rocky islets, with trees on them ; The Paiise
they lie to the S. E. of Chellung Peninsula, the outer one distant 1^ miles : the passage ^^''''^'
between them and the peninsula is intricate and unsafe ; there appears to be no danger
near them on the outside except the Pahse Rock, which is above water. The sides of
this rock are perpendicular, having 10 and 11 fathoms within a few feet of it; tliere are
also 10 and 1 1 fathoms near the islets. Inside the Pahse Islets is Chellung Bay, which
is easy of access, and where there is excellent shelter from the N.W. winds. A vessel
compelled to leave any of the anchorages to the northward in a N.W. gale should
anchor anywhere between the islets and the main, in smooth water and a moderate
depth. The existence of a shoal, however, near the anchorage, the position of which is
not known, will prevent this harbour from being used until it has been ascertained.
N. 77° E. from the largest of the Pahse Islets, distant nearly 2^ miles, is a village
on the main, called Catappang Pahse ; it may be known by a cluster of coco-nut
trees and several houses."
" PANGHAH. — Four or five miles to the S. E. of Catappang Pashe is a small Panghah.
pepper port, called Panghah ; the coast near here is low with a sandy beach, and there
is no mark as a guide to its situation but a small break in the arroon trees. The chart
which these directions are intended to accompany extends no farther than Catappang
Pahse ; but as there is no chart or sailing directions for the coast from Oojong
Booboon, and it is very imperfectly known, it is thought directions extending to that
point might be useful (the bearings and distance being ascertained by chronometer
and bearings of the peak of Rigas Hill). From Catappang Pahse to Oojong Booboon,
the coast extends S. 4.3° E. 32 miles nearly in a straight line, having only a slight
regular curve to the N. E. The coast is quite low, with a sandy beach, without any
points or a single hill nea?- the shore, which is closely crowded with arroon trees,
similar in appearance to the pine. They commence near Catappang Pahse, and extend
to Wylah River, a distance of about 25 miles, level and uniform as a line of soldiers,
with scarcely a break. From Wylah River, for the distance of about 2 miles to the S. E.,
there is an opening, where there are no high trees except 5 or very tall ones, stand-
ing close together in the centre of the opening : these are very conspicuous in the
offing ; there are also a few coco-nut trees, and several houses a short distance to the
S. E. of them ; but the latter cannot be seen far. From this break the arroon trees
again commence, and extend in the same close and uniform order 4 or 5 miles farther,
and terminate close to Oojong Booboon. This is the best mark to distinguish this
point, as there is not one arroon tree between it and Annalaboo. This coast appears
safe to approach within a moderate distance ; no shoals are known to exist, though it
is said there is one near Wylah River, not far from the shore."
POINT BUBON, or BOOBOOANG, in lat. 4° U^' N., and about 4 leagues to i-oint huIkm..
the N.W. of Analaboo, is conspicuous from a dark cluster of trees upon it resembling
a bonnet, and the coast here is safe to approach to 12 fathoms. If bound to the village
of Boobooang, bring the woods to the south of it to bear North, then steer in for it till
in 3^ fathoms, if in a small vessel.
78
Analaboo.
Supplies.
Dangers.
Directions.
Soundings.
SllOHl.
ANALABOO, or NALABOO, in lat. 4° 8^-' N., Ion. 96° 8' E.,* distant 13 or 14
leagues S. £. f E. from Cap Island, may be known by a grove of coco-nut trees on the
low rocky point that forms the north side of the road, appearing like an island when
first seen, the land being low along this part of the coast. A ship may anchor here
with the point bearing about N.W. in 7 or 8 fathoms, on the south side of a reef that
projects a considerable way from the north side of a small rivulet, and procure wood,
plenty of fresh water, or other refreshments. Captain Bennet says, you may anchor in
5 fathoms, with the point of coco-nut trees W. ^ S., distant about half a mile, and will
be sheltered from north-westers. A reef projects a quarter of a mile from the point,
which is steep to with only 5 feet water on it, and the sea does not break over it
except in blowing weather.-l" According to Mr. Gillis, there are four shoals in the
neighbourhood of the point. The one most in the track of vessels entering the port is
called Loongcarp Oojong Cahrang, and bears S.W. ^ S. half a mile from the point ;
the shoalest part found was 11 feet. Another shoal bears W. ^ N. from the point,
about the same distance as the former, has very little water on it, with 6f fathoms mud
a quarter of a mile outside it. From this in a northerly direction, distant a quarter of a
mile, is another small shoal with a roller on it, and another shoal, with Analaboo
Point E. by S. ^ S., distant about 2 miles, with not more than 5 or 6 feet. Mr. Gillis
was assured, by the fishermen who accompanied him to examine these shoals, that there
were no other, though there were several near the shore in the direction of Bubon.
" A vessel bound to Analaboo from the northward, with a free wind," says Mr.
Gillis, " may round the point in 7 fathoms, if the depth is known exactly ; otherwise it
would not be safe to round it so close. When the point bears N. E. about 2 or 2j miles
there will be 8 fathoms regular soundings. A vessel passing outside that depth with a
strong N.W. wind would find it difficult to reach the anchorage without tacking. As
soon as the landing place can be seen, or when the point bears N. N. E., a direct course
may be steered for the anchorage." A considerable trade is carried on here in pepper,
and several American and other ships procure full cargoes in the season. The Rajah
is favourably inclined to those who come to trade at this place.
The soundings from the land of Achen Head to Cap Island are in some places
irregular over a rocky bottom, the depths generally 18 to 30 fathoms from 1 to 3 leagues
oft' shore. In this space, ships should keep 2 or 3 leagues from the land in the night,
to give a proper berth to the rocky isles scattered along the coast. From Cap Island
to Analaboo, the soundings are more regular, and the bottom soft, where the shore
may be approached to 11 or 12 fathoms, and occasionally to 9 fathoms; but not under
this depth in passing Analaboo Point, as 1| miles S.VV. from it lies a coral shoal,
which after passing you may stand into the bay, and anchor in 5 fathoms with the River's
Point N. i E., China House N. by W. f W.
From Analaboo to Cape Felix or Oojong Rajah, the course is S. E. ^ E. to
S. E. by S., distant 10 or 11 leagues, and the coast may be approached to 11 or 12
fathoms, from 2 to 7 or 8 miles off" shore: near Cape Felix, and about 4 or 5 miles from
the shore, the water deepens suddenly to 26 or 28 fathoms, and the coast trends from
it eastward to Soosoo.
With Cape Felix bearing S. E. by E. ^ E. about 10 miles, the Countess of Loudon
* Lieutenant Freeman made the Point of Analaboo, in lat. 4° 7' N., Ion. 96^ 8' E., by chronometers, from
King Point, Achen Head. Captain Ashmore made the point in lat. 4° 7' 36" N., Ion. 96° 7' 22'' E., by mean
of many chronometric admeasurements, from 1821 to 1827 ; and in 96° 9^' E., by a
vations
series of lunar obser-
■f Mr. Gillis, in his sailing directions for the Pepper Ports, mentions this reef as being altvays visible.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
79
shoaled quick from 1], 10, and 9, to 3 fathoms, on a shoal of small extent, and imme-
diately after tacking on it had 9 fathoms.
Captain Endicott appears to refer to this shoal in his Directions for the Pepper Ports,
when he says, " Abreast Oojong Trepah, which lies about half-way from Analaboo to
Cape Felix, and in the track of 9 fathoms, the natives say there is a coral shoal of
3 fathoms, and perliaps less water, at the distance of 3 miles from the shore."
CAPE FELIX, or OOJONG RAJAH, in lat. 3°4.3'N., Ion. 90^40' E., by Cap- cape Feiix.
tain Ashmore's observations, and in lat. 3° 44|' by Captain Endicott, is a low level
headland, bold to approach, bearing from Soosoo town West, distant 5 or 5|- leagues,
and forms the western extremity of the bay. The cape is difficult to distinguish, but
Capt. Endicott mentions a small flat house, built of mats, half a mile to the eastward
of the cape, by which, if within 1^ or 2 miles of the shore, it may be known. The
house has generally one or more white flags on it.
He also remarks that " a small coral shoal is said by the natives to lie close inshore
just to the northward of the cape. W. by S. ^ S., about 14 miles from Cape Felix, there
is also a 4 fathom shoal ; the English brig Heldrane sounded on another of 5 fathoms,
Cape Felix N. E. and lat. observed 3°35'N. South from Cape Felix 12 miles I passed
over, in the ship Suffolk, in 1827, a 4 fathom shoal with .55 fathoms no ground just
inside of it ; a little distance, say three-quarters of a mile to the N. W., is another
small shoal, with deep water between.
QUALLA BATOO is about 3 miles to the W. N. W. of Soosoo, and, according to Quaiia Batoo.
Captain Endicott, is, during the N.W. monsoon, one of the safest and best roadsteads
on this coast. Coasting along from Cape Felix, 5 or 6 miles off* shore, in 28 or 30
fathoms, a ship may stand on to the eastward in this depth, which will lead outside
the shoals, until two clumps of trees like islands, about a mile apart, are seen ; these
are the points of Soosoo Bay ; and when the southernmost clump (on Soosoo Point)
bears N. E. ^ E. she may steer towards it until the houses atQualla Batoo bear North,
then steer direct for them, which will carry you mid-channel between the shoals, three
of them on the left hand, the southernmost of which bears S. W. by W. from Pulo
Khio, and one on the right hand, about a mile distant from Pulo Khio: the sea gene-
rally breaks on them. The anchorage at Qualla Batoo is in 20 to 22 fathoms, with
Pulo Khio E. S. E., the river s mouth N. ^ W., and Cape Felix about VV. ^ S. About
4 or 5 miles to the westward of Qualla Batoo there is a shoal, which lies in a direct shoai.
line between Cape Felix and Soosoo Point.
Small ships frequent this place, to procure pepper and other articles of trade; but it
is prudent to be always guarded against the perfidy of the natives, who have been Natives.
several times successful in assaulting and taking possession of ships which came to
trade with them.
SOOSOO BAY contains several dangerous shoals, covered with 1, 2, and 2j soosoo Bay.
fathoms water ; there is also much foul ground in it, with overfalls from 20 to 10
fathoms ; but the channel is wide and safe between the shoals on the west side of the
bay, and those to the southward of Soosoo Point. A ship bound into the road, after to sail into
coasting along about 2 or 3 leagues off, in 28 to 35 fathoms, when the road is ap- 'iie™^''
proached, ought to keep a boat a-head to sound, if unacquainted, and steer in with
Soosoo Point, or tlie entrance of the river, bearing about JN. E., or the town N.E. ^ E.
Pulo Khio, the N.W. point of the bay, lies 1^ or 2 miles to the westward of Soosoo
80
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Position of
Soosoo.
Anchorage of
Mangien and
Laboan
Hadgee.
Point, and resembles it when first seen ; it has the appearance of an island. A ship
Anchorage. may anchoi" in 18 or 20 fathoms, with the houses of Soosoo N. E. by E., about 2 miles
off shore; or by choosing a clear berth with the boat, she may move into 9 or 10
fathoms near the entrance of the river, and anchor with Soosoo Point E.N.E. Soosoo
Point appears with two or three trees close to the houses, like a small island ; steering
in with it about N. E. ^ E., a tall tree near the middle of the bottom of the bay will
be seen, which bring N. E. ^ N., and steer direct for it until in 10 or 11 fathoms soft
ground, and then anchor within a quarter of a mile of Soosoo Point. The Royal
George, at anchor in 18 fathoms, had Cape Felix W. ^ N., the southernmost extreme
of the land S. E. by S., and Soosoo Town E. N. E., distant about a mile: Soosoo
Town is in lat. 3° 41' N., Ion. 96° 52' E.
About 2^ leagues to the S. E. of Soosoo, on the S. E. side of a bluff point (North
Tellapoe Point) of arroon trees, there is a place called Mangien, with anchorage in
9^ fathoms, inside of a rocky shoal that lies about 1^ miles about S. by W. from the
point. Off North Tellapoe Point is another shoal, which almost always breaks, but
there is a passage of 10 fathoms inside of it. Laboan Hadgee, about half-way between
Mangien and Muckay, is also an anchoring place for procuring pepper, having a sand-
bank and other dangers fronting it.
Muckay. MUCKAY, in lat. 3° 28' N., is a small place, where the coasting vessels stop at
times to trade : if bound into this place, bring the low point that forms the western
arm of the bay of Muckay to bear N. E., and steer on this bearing till within half a mile
of it, which will clear the shoals ; but the anchorage is not good within the N. W. point.
There are two shoals off Muckay in 23 fathoms, one bearing W.S. W. about 2^
miles from the southern bluff point of Muckay Bay, the other S.W. 3 miles from the
same point, and they bear nearly North and South of each other ; the former has only
11 feet on it, and the latter 2J fathoms. A course S.W. from Muckay will lead between
the shoals, and when in 27 fathoms you are outside of them.*
The course from Cape Felix to Muckay is S. E. by E. ^ E., in which track a ship
should not come under 27 fathoms water, as there are several dangerous shoals within
this depth ; also many shoals beyond this depth, some of which are also dangerous.
Between Muckay and South Tellapoe, about mid-way, there is a small island, called
Pulo Soorvodung, close to the shore, between which and Tellapoe lies a 3 fathom
shoal. It is about a mile off shore, and bears South 1^ miles from the island.
Tellapoe. SOUTH TELLAPOE, or TELOK POW, in lat. 3° 22' N., and 8 miles S. East-
ward from Muckay, is a place where pepper may sometimes be obtained : the best
anchorage is with the point N. by E. in 17 fathoms, under which depth the ground is
frequently foul. Labanacky is a small place, in lat. 3° 20' N.
There is a remarkable white rock about 2 miles to the South-eastward of Tellapoe ;
it is called by the natives Battoo Ply-eah. Between this and Turapat Tuan are the
small pepper ports of Samah Duah, Eah Moodoong, and Telloo Cattapung. Along
this coast the soundings are very deep.
TumpatTuan. TUMPAT TUAN POINT, the southern extreme of the high land seen from
Soo.soo, distant from it about 12 leagues, is in lat. 3° 15' N., Ion. 97° 20' E. (or, ac-
cording to Captain Endicott, in lat. 3° 16|' N.), having a reef projecting a mile from
* Captain Joseph Pearce, of the ship Frankland, was informed by the native fishermen, that there is a shoal
with only 11 feet on it, S. S. W. from Muckay Point, 6 or 7 miles distant. (Naiit. Mag. for 1841, p. 732.)
Shoals.
81
the point to seaward,* with anchorage in 15 to 22 fathoms close on the east side of the
point, with it bearing about West, and the village N. by W., distant one mile.
About a mile W. by N. from Tumpat Tuau Point lies a small round rock, like a
boat, with a rock visible oft" the extreme point, which may be rounded close, having
27 fathoms at a small distance. In the bottom of the bay there is a reef, on which the
sea usually breaks, rendering it unsafe with southerly winds.
Captain Endicott's description of Tumpat Tuan is as follows : " There are two rocks
above water off" this point, one called Batto Copeah, or Cap Rock, bearing S.W. about
a cable's length from the point; the other, called Battoo Toonkal, or Stick Rock, bearing
W. I N., three-quarters of a mile from it, having 30 fathoms close to its outer edge ;
there is also a coral shoal of 3 fathoms, and perhaps less water, bearing from the point
W. by S. about H miles There are two coral shoals in the small bay: one
bearing about N. £. by E., three-eighths of a mile from the point ; the other near the
eastern part of the bay, bearing from the point E. ^ S. three-quarters of a mile. Here
you are sheltered fiom N. W. winds, with the point bearing W. | S. to W. by S., and
the village N. W. f W. to N. N. W. 4 W."
Along this part of the coast, between Achen Head and Soosoo, the weather is gene-
rally settled and fine in the northerly monsoon, with frequent land and sea breezes.
POIKT LABON, or OOJONG CALOAT, in about lat. 3° 3' N., is 19 or 20 Poim Labo,..
leagues to the S. E. of Cape Felix, and in sailing between them, great care is requisite
to avoid several shoals interspersed along the coast. The Lord Castlereagh struck on Dangerous
one of them in lat. 3° 4' IN., distant about 10 miles from the shore, and had no ground
40 fathoms close to it. This seems to be the shoal called Lagootsong by the natives,
bearing S. W. from Tumpat Tuan Point, with only 10 feet water on its shoalest part,
as stated by Captain Bennet, who struck on it in one of his voyages from Bengal to
this coast. Betwixt lat. .3° and 3^ 50' N., he was very close to several other shoals,
before they were observed, in lat. 3° 30' N., the Royal George passed over the tail
of a shoalf in 6 fathoms, when the rocks were seen alongside ; a little outside of it,
they had no ground 85 fathoms, and 45 fathoms close to it on the inside; the depth
from thence decreased gradually to 26 fathoms, steering N. by W. toward Soosoo Bay.
In lat. 3° 14' JN. there is another shoal, with 4 fathoms, or less water on it, and 20
fathoms at a small distance inside : w hen at anchor on it in 5 fathoms, the extremes of
the coast bore from N. N. W. to S. E. by E., and the White Rock N. N. E.| E., dis-
tant oft" shore about 3 leagues.
These shoals are thus described by Captain Endicott : " A dangerous shoal lies in
lat. 3° 4' N., with Tumpat Tuan Great Hill bearing North. Another shoal lies in the
neighbourhood of Tumpat Tuan, on which the English brig Sophia, drawing only 11
feet, struck in 1831. Its position is not well ascertained, but the Sophia, after getting
oft", steered N. | E., and soon saw the vessels at South Tellapoe right a-head." It is
supposed to lie about S. W. from Tumpat Tuan Point. Another shoal, also dangerous,
lies in lat. 2° 58' N., with Tumpat Tuan Great Hill N. by E. The brig Governor En-
dicott passed close along its eastern side in 1829, and saw it break several times.
"There is also a shoal of 3 fathoms, w ith Tumpat Tuan Great Hill N. by E.^ E. and Pulo
Munkie E. N.E. ; it has 34 fathoms close to it. Between Tumpat Tuan and Pulo
• There is no reef projecting to seaward shewn in Mr. Gillis' plan of Tumpat Tuan Bay, but depths from
3 to 17 fathoms close to the point.
t This appears to be tiie same bank on which the Albion had 5 fathoms in lat. 3' 30' N., and 4 or 5 leagues
off shore ; siie hauled to the S.W., and soon deepened to 30 fathoms no ground.
VOL. II. M
82
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Munkie the coast at 3 or 4 miles' distance is considered free from danger, with regular
soundings." . . . . " Along this shore there is commonly a tremendous surf and dan-
gerous landing, except in the native boats : the coast has generally proved unhealthy,
and frequently fatal to ships' crews who have been obliged to remain over night."
From Tumpat Tuan to Oojong Camarang (the point to the N. Westward of Ban-
coongong Bay), the course is about S. E. 8 leagues, and a ship should keep 2-^ or 3
miles oft' shore in 25 to 20 fathoms : when you raise the point, the small isle, called
Pulo Monkier, or Munkie, will be perceived, from which Pulo Dooa bears E. by S.
about /) miles.
Bancoongong BANCOONGONG, Or BACOONGON, BAY, about 6 leagues to the S. East-
Bay, ward of Point Labon, where ships may lie sheltered from the north-westers, has some
rocks off" its western extremity ; and there is a shoal on the edge of soundings, about
Position. 3 or 4 leagues to the southward. The river and village of Bancoongong, in lat. 2° 52'
N., Ion. 97° 38' E.,* may be known by two small islands, the northernmost called Pulo
Dooa, the other Pulo Kayoo, which have a safe channel between them of 10 and 12
fathoms, and are situated near the river's mouth ;t there is also a mountain close to
the sea nearly as high as the others, which is formed like a saddle, with the highest
end to the southward, and Bancoongong lies close under its northern end, and 3 or 3^
miles to the N.W. of the village of Sebadies. A large ship may anchor in 15 fathoms
soft ground, about half a mile offshore, with the entrance of the river bearing N.N. E.,
where she will be sheltered from N.W. winds : vessels sometimes touch at this place
to trade, there being a river and village on the east side the point.
Captain Endicott gives the following directions for Bancoongong :
this place from the southward much care is requisite, as there are
which a ship would ground. To avoid these, bring Bancoongong
by W., and run in on this bearing till Pulo Munkie bears West ; you
Anchorage.
In approaching
several shoals on
Bazar to bear N.
may then haul
Campong
Arra Islet and
Sebadies vil-
lage.
out more to the westward and anchor in from 14 to 15 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile
off" shore, with the Bazar bearing North and Pulo Munkie W. | S. If bound from
the northward, the passage between Pulo Munkie and the main may be adopted, by
keeping about half a mile from the latter and standing along shore at that distance till
Bancoongong village bears from North to N. by E., and anchor. Should the passage
to the southward of Pulo Munkie be preferred, bring the opening between the Pulo
Duas to bear East, and run for it till Bancoongong Bazar bears N. by W.; and observe
the same directions as given above for approaching these roads from the southward."
There is a shoal a mile S. S. E. from Pulo Kayoo, and S. S.W., a mile from it,
Campong Arra, a small islet with reefs ; but off" the village Sebadies, which lies East
2 miles from Pulo Dooa, there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms about 1 mile from
the shore, sheltered from N.W. winds. If bound into this road, and being about
3 miles off" shore in 25 fathoms, bring the village Sebadies to bear N. by E., steer
in with this bearing, and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, the village N. by E., 1 or
1^ miles.
Lieutenant Henning says, there is a passage between Pulo Kayoo and the small Isle
Campong Arra, but nearly in mid-channel lies a shoal, with 4^ feet on it, and another
shoal E. ^ S., from Campong Arra three-quarters of a mile, which always breaks.
* Bancoongong, according to Endicott's Chart, is in lat. 2° 56' N., Ion. 97° 42' E., and lies S. E. by E.
4 leagues from Oojong Caloat.
t Captain Endicott comprehends both these islands under the name Pulo Duas ; they lie S. E. by S. 3 miles
from Bancoongong, and about half a mile from the nearest land by his chart.
SUMATRA, AVEST COAST.
83
About half a mile W. by N. from Pulo Dooa, there is also a shoal,
is the best harbour amongst tiie northern pepper ports, being
13 fathoms, with that island bearing West about half a mile.
Under Pulo Dooa
well sheltered in
TOUROUMANG, or TAROOMON, is 6 or 6^ miles to the south-eastward of Touroumani?.
Sebadies, where a vessel may anchor ; but W. N.W.,2|^ miles from it, there is a reef on
which the sea sometimes breaks, having close to it 8 fathoms water.
In the vicinity of Touroumang Bay there are several dangerous shoals, one of which
is in lat. 2° 47' N., bearing from Pulo Dooa S.W. ^ W. about 8 miles, and W. by S.
from the highest peak of a Saddle Hill, situated to the northward of Touroumang : this
shoal has only 1 1 feet water on it, with 30 fathoms close on the outside. The brig
Hammudy struck upon it in the night, steering S.S.W. in 28 fathoms. There is said
to be a shoal in 24 fathoms, bearing from Pulo Dooa S. W. ^ W., distant 3 miles ; one
bearing N. by W. ^ W. from Pulo Touroumang, distant about 2 miles ; and another
about W. by S. 2 miles from the same place.
Touroumang now affords the largest quantity of pepper of any place on the coast ;
in approaching which, care should be taken to avoid the shoal bearing N. by W. ^ VV.
from it, on which the sea sometimes breaks, as it is only covered with 9 feet water.
The isle near the shore to the southward of the anchorage (Pulo Touroumang) should
be brought to bear E. S.E., then steer towards it, and pass at a moderate distance
round its northern end, from which a spit projects about half a cable's length. The
anchorage is usually in 7 fathoms sandy bottom, off the mouth of the river, but good
ground tackling is requisite, it being exposed to north-westers. Some vessels anchor
under the island, although it is inconvenient to be so far from the mouth of the river.
There is a passage to the southward of the island, between it and the shore, which is
seldom used, as a reef lies nearly south about IJ-or 2 miles from the island; but
Captain Ross says this inside passage is safe, by rounding the point to the southward
of Touroumang in 5 fathoms, and from thence the track close along shore, inside
of all the shoals, to Sinkell is safe, and preferable to the outside track by Passage
Island.
Booloosemah Village, in lat. 2° 32^' N., has opened a trade, where ships procure Booioosemaii.
pepper, and the anchorage is in 6 or 5^ fathoms ; Captain Ashmore, in 1827, when at
anchor in the latter depth, off shore about a mile, had Oojong Petecallo bearing
S. by E., Tumpat Tuan Hill, N.W. by N., and Baniak Peak, S.W. i W.
FROM BANCOONGONG TO PADANG.
IN sailing from the northward, ships bound to Sinkel, or other ports north of the
equator, ouglit to proceed by the inner passage between Pulo Baniak and the main,
and near to Passage Island. The land between Bancoongong Bay and Cape Sitoe is
mostly low near the sea, and hilly inland.
In coasting along, keep about 3 or 4 leagues from the shore to avoid the shoals, and
when Passage Island is seen, steer towards it. Within 2 or 2^ miles of the main, w ith
M 2
Directions.
It
BA SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Rocky Shoal. Baniak Peak bearing W. S.W. about 7 leagues, there is a rocky shoal, having only
from 2 to 3 fiithoms on it in some parts, with a safe channel of 8 and 9 fathoms
between it and the Sumatra shore.
Passage within Of this channel close along the coast, inside the rocky shoal, the Cadogan's journal
gives the following description. December 5th, 1729, passed in 8, 9, and 10 fathoms
regular soundings within a mile of the shore, between Cape Sitoe and the rocky shoal
w hich lies off' it, and at times could see a small breaker on the sunken rocks, which
appeared to be 2 miles distant from the Cape, and makes this passage probably safer
than the other between the shoal and Passage Island, because you may venture within
half a mile of the shore.
Captain Ross says, this Inner Passage is very safe, he having adopted it from the
notice here given in the Cadogan's journal, and had 12 fathoms water near to Oojong
Petecallo, and from thence passed close along the coast to Taroomon Road.
Passage Island PASSAGE ISLAND, Called Javoe Javee by the natives, in lat. 2° 23' N.,* and
about 2 leagues to the westward of Cape Sitoe, or Oojong Petecallo, is low and
sandy, with few shrubs ; but one large tree of the Banian species may be seen at a
great distance, and the island may be discerned from the deck 4 or 5 leagues in clear
weather.
The channel between the coast of Sumatra and Passage Island is rendered intricate
by the dangerous rocky shoals mentioned above, having only 2 and 3 fathoms on them
in some places, and situated nearly mid- way betwixt the island and the main. Although
there is a safe passage inside these shoals mentioned above, by keeping close to the
Sumatra shore, yet the channel between Passage Island and the shoals has been
usually adopted.
Tosaii through In steering for this channel, keep about 3 leagues off' the coast until Passage Island
the channel • ^ , . . ^
from the north. IS secu, then stccr towards it, observing never to bring it more easterly than S. E., to
ward. prevent getting near the shoals and irregular soundings, projecting from its outside to
a considerable distance, one of which shoals is said to be 3 or 4 miles W. N.W. from
the island. Having approached Passage Island within three miles, bring it to bear
S. E. by S., or S. S. E., wiiich are good bearings, and when three-quarters or half a
mile off" it with these bearings, keep about the same distance in sailing along its eastern
side, but not more than three-quarters of a mile from it, to avoid the shoals mid-way
between it and Cape Sitoe : on account of these, the island must be borrowed upon,
but not under half a mile, for the ffat is dry all round to the distance of a cable's length
at low water, and projects about a quarter of a mile, or rather more in some places, but
is not visible at high water. By preserving the distance mentioned, the soundings will
be tolerably regular, and the depths never less than 10 or 12 fathoms, mostly rocky
bottom. When Passage Island is in one with the peak of Baniak they bear
S.W. by W. ^ W., and it cannot be mistaken, there being no other island betwixt it
and the main. A good look-out from the mast-head is requisite w hen passing through
this channel, as the coral shoals may be discerned in clear weather, but the flat sur-
rounding Passage Island cannot be always distinguished. When through the channel,
which is about a mile in length, the island must be kept between N. N.VV. and
N.W. by N., in steering from it to the southward, where a ship may anchor if the wind
* Captain Ashmore made it in lat. 2° 24J' N., in 1816, and in lat. 2° 22|' N. in 1824 ; and he usually expe-
rienced on this coast a difference of 2 or 2| miles in the observations for latitudej when the sun's declination was
north, from those taken when the declination was south.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 85
or tide be unfavourable; but to the northward of the island do not anchor under 20
fathoms, for the ground there is rocky under that depth.
From Sinkel Road to Passage Island the course is N.W., and in coming from the To sail through
southward, when Passage Island bears S.W., steer N.W. in 12, 13, and 14 fathoms, fto''„,'thTso'„th.
and pass on the east side the island at the distance of three-quarters of a mile: if you ward.
borrow under half a mile the water shoals suddenly from 11 or 12 to 6 fathoms, on
the edge of the reef that surrounds the island.
There is a channel to the westward of Passage Island, by keeping near to Pulo channel West
Sago and the other islands that line the eastern side of Baniak, as several dangerous jsjand^^^^
shoals extend two-thirds of the channel over from Passage Island towards Pulo Sago.
Those who intend to adopt this channel in coming from the northward, should never,
in working, bring the southernmost island to the southward of S. ^ E. in standing
towards the shoals; or even then, if the water shoal suddenly, tack immediately, as the
shoals are steep to. The depths in this channel are irregular, from 17 or 18 to 33
fathoms, and it is about 2 miles wide in the narrowest part abreast the eastern side of
Pulo Sago, between some shoals that project about half a mile from the N. E. point of
this island, and the other shoals which occupy the eastern side of the channel towards
Passage Island.
In proceeding through this channel, a good look-out from the mast-head is proper
to discover the shoals, not having been well explored, and formerly no passage was
known to exist here ; but several of the ships which trade to this coast have passed
through it with safety, and Captain Ashraore has given a plan of it iu his chart of the
Northern Pepper Ports, West Coast of Sumatra, published at the Hydrographical
Office, East India House.
SINKEL RIVER, in lat. 2° 13' N.,* about 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Pas- sinkei Kive.-
&'
and Road.
sage Island, subject to the King of Achen, was formerly a place of considerable trade,
the principal expoi'ts being benzoin, camphor, wax, and gold. A ship bound to this
place should, after leaving Passage Island, steer about S. S. E. or S. E. by S., taking-
care not to bring the island to the westward of N.W. by N., by keeping 6 or 7 miles
from the main ; the shoals between them will then be avoided, and having brought the
low point on the north side of Sinkel River, which is covered with palmyra trees, to
bear about E. by N., she may haul in, and anchor in from 12 to 17 fathoms, with the
mouth of the river N. E., distant one mile. Sinkel Road is inside the reef that lies to
the S. E. of the river.
Breakers project a little way from the points that form its entrance, and the town is
some distance up the river ; but when a ship is known to have anchored to trade, the
merchants will come off to her. No person should be permitted on board, except the Caution.
principal merchants, deprived of offensive weapons, and caution is requisite to repel or
prevent any attack that the natives may be inclined to make. A snow, belonging to
Bengal, was cut off here in 1782, since which time, few European traders have touched
at this place ; but it is said to be in a reviving state.
SE LEAGA BAY, about 3 leagues eastward from the mouth of Sinkel River, is seLeagaBay.
sometimes chosen by shi|)s trading to Sinkel, on account of its shelter. W bound into
it, steer from Sinkel Point along the coast at a moderate distance to the west point of
* Captain Ashmore made Sinkel Point in lat. 2' 13' N., by mean of observations of sun on both sides the
zenith.
86
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Islands and
Shoals.
the bay, taking care to avoid a shoal or rock, said to lie in 20 fathoms, S.W. from the
island in Se Leaga Bay. Oojong Rajah, the west point of the bay, has a long flat
projecting from it about 2 leagues, which may be crossed about 3 miles from the shore
in 8 or 9 fathoms, hard ground, and when the bottom becomes soft to the eastward of
it, haul up N. N. E., and pass on the west side of a low sandy island, and anchor
between it and the western shore. If the ship is to remain a considerable time, she
should run into 5 fathoms mnd, and anchor on the west side the small island of Se
Leaga, which is covered with trees, where she will be sheltered by the land from west-
erly winds and from S. E. winds, by the reefs of breakers in that direction, at the
entrance of the bay.
Several islands and shoals are scattered along the coast from hence to Baroos, and
there are some places on it, such as Bankole and Tapoos, frequented by the small
trading vessels. The land in this space is generally low near the sea.
I'ulo I^acotta.
Bird Island.
To sail from
Sinkel to
Earoos Road.
Baroos.
Pulo Lassey.
To sail from
Karoos to Tap.
panooly Bay.
PULO LACOTTA, in lat. 1° 50' N.,* Ion. 98° 1' E., by Captain Cameron, of the
London, distant 9 or 10 leagues from Sinkel River, is a small low island, covered with
trees, having at 4 miles' distance, N. by W. from it, a low islet or sand-bank, in about
30 fathoms water, called Bird Island, from being a place of refuge to the feathered
race ; it is not discerned farther than 3 leagues. A reef projects from it about
1 mile to the N. W. and S. E., and when it is visible to an eye at 15 feet elevation
above the sea, bearing S. E., 7 miles distant, and Pulo Lacotta S. S. E. \ E., there is
a shoal with only 1 fathom water on it. With Bird Island W. S. W. 5 miles, Lacotta
S.W. \ W., and Mensular bearing E. S. E. to S. E. by E. \ E., there is a shoal with
11 feet on it, and from 30 to 25 fathoms around, at a small distance.
A ship departing from Sinkel should steer out into 23 or 26 fathoms, then S. East-
ward for Bird Island, which may be approached on the north side within 1 or \\ miles.
The water deepens near these islands, but the soundings are not always regular, and
34 fathoms is too close to Bird Island ; the best track to keep is from 26 to 30 fathoms
water. Great prudence is requisite to pass them in the night ; this should only be
done in clear, favourable weather, taking care not to borrow nearer the shoals fronting
the coast than 27 fathoms, nor too close to Bird Island, on account of the shoal to the
North-westward, and another betwixt it and Pulo Lacotta. Having passed Bird
Island, haul in E. by S. and East for the mainland, and pass Pulo Carangua, a small
island covered with trees, at 2 miles' distance on the south side, or less if requisite,
and anchor in Baroos Road in 10 fathoms, mud, with the flagstaff N. N. E. nearly
2 leagues, and Pulo Carangua W. N. W. about 2 or 3 miles.
BAROOS, in about lat. 1° 56' N., is a place of some trade, the principal exports
camphor and benzoin ; fresh water may be procured, but it is dangerous for a ship's
boat to enter the river, except having one of the natives as a guide. Wood and water
may also be got at Pulo Lassey, about 2 leagues to the N.W., near the west point of
Tapoos Bay, by anchoring under that island, with it bearing N. W. by W., distant
about a mile.
The course from Pulo Carangua to Pulo Sokum is S. E. by E. about 5 or 6 leagues;
in sailing towards Tappanooly Bay, the channel between Mensular and the main is
* Captain Ashtnore made it in lat. P SI' N. by mean of observations of the sun on different sides the zenith ;
and by noon observation, 9th October, 1814, Captain Henderson, of the Resource, made it in lat. 1° 50' N.
He passed within 2^ miles of Bird Island, and got no ground with 30 fathoms line.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST, ' 87
about 3 leagues wide, with regular soundings, and good anchorage. There is a shoal
of coral rocks,* with 9 feet water on it, 2 or 3 miles oft" the main, and in the track
between Pulo Sokum and Battoo Barroo Point, which is of considerable height, and
forms tlie western extreme of Tappanooly Bay. This shoal is small, said to bear
W. N. W. from Battoo Barroo Point, and lies in 9 or 10 fathoms, so that a ship should
not come under 12 or 13 fathoms until near the point, which is distant about 3^^ or
4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Pulo Sokum ; she may then round the point in 9 or
10 fathoms, keeping it pretty close aboard, and the Island of Ponchang Cached, which
is the nearest island to the point, will be seen to the N. N. Eastward. This island may
be passed on either side as most convenient, and after bringing it to bear about S. W.,
or the hill on which the colours are hoisted S. by W. ^ W., she may anchor in 7 or 7^
fathoms, soft ground, about a cable's length from the island, and carry a hawser on
shore to steady her, where she will be land-locked.
The following directions for ships bound to Tappanooly from Bencoolen, by Mr. Mr. Princes
Prince, the resident at the former place, are said to merit confidence. " Make the ""'<^'^"''"*
land at the south end of Pulo Nias, which pass at a few miles' distance ; steer for Natal,
and after discerning the Hill, which is rather low and sloping, being in 25 or 26
fathoms, steer N. N.W. and N. by W. for the Sugar Loaf Between Natal and the
Tabooyong Islands, 21 to 24 miles distant, there are dangers in-shore, therefore do not
approach it nearer than 20 fathoms ; but from Tabooyong and the Sugar Loaf, the
land may be approached at discretion, as the passage is quite clear."
TAPPANOOLY BAY forms an extensive harbour, or is rather subdivided into Tappanooly
many coves or harbours by the different islands in it, where ships may lie sheltered ^^^'
from all winds. Ponchang Cached, a little inside the entrance, where ships generally
moor, is in lat. 1° 44' N.,t Ion. 98° 41^' E. Between it and Pulo Panjang, the next
island to the northward, there are 7 and 8 fathoms in a passage about half a mile wide.
On the east side of Panjang, the harbour is spacious, the depths from 7 to 4 fathoms,
with a watering place on the main to the northw ard ; there is also good shelter to the
westward of the same island, but reefs project from the north end of it and the adjoin-
ing sliores, and also from the other islands beyond it, in the northern arm of the bay ;
notwithstanding, there are safe passages and good shelter among them, in depths from
3 to 5 fathoms. Variation 1° 19' E. in 1822. Variation.
The village of Tappanooly is at the northern part of the bay, about 4 miles from
Ponchang Cached ; from thence, this extensive bay is continued to the westward, by
a narrow channel that opens into a large lagoon, with depths in it from 2 to 3
fathoms.
Ponchang Gadang, on the east side the entrance of the bay, is the largest island in I'onthang
it, and has some steep hills covered witii large timber ; near the foot of these there " ^^'
are several springs of fresh water. The passage betwixt this island and Ponchang
Cached is a mile wide, with (J or 7 fathoms close to either island, and 10 fathoms in
mid-channel; between these two islands and Pulo Seeroodoot, situated about 1^ miles
to the N. Eastward, the depths are from 7 to 9 fathoms, regular soundings, and the
channels safe. There is good anchorage near the N. E. side of Ponchang Gadang, in
* There is said to be a coral shoal, about mid-channel between Mensular and the main, with only 3 or 3J
fathoms on it, the situation of which is not correctly known. Pulo Sokum is the first small island on the coast
to the northward of Tappanooly Bay.
f The astronomers from Madras, who visited this place in 1822, made Tappanooly Island in lat. l''43'46" N.,
by stars North and South of the zenith, and in Ion. Qb" 41' 17" E. by chronometers from Madras.
88
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
7 or 8 fathoms, to the eastward of a small island off its north end, around which, and
the west, soiitli, and east sides of Gadang-, a reef projects some distance. An excel-
lent cove stretches into the land to the eastward of Pulo Seeroodoot, having- 4 and 5
fathoms water inside, and the same depths in tiie entrance, between the south end of
that island and the mainland.
Mensiilar
Island and har-
llOlll'.
Tides.
Dangers.
MENSULAR, or MASSULAR, in lat. 1° 32' N., is about 4 leagues in extent East
and West, situated to the westward of Tapjianooly Bay : it is a high island, with several
inlets on the north side, and contiguous to its S. E. end there is a group of islets, which
form a harbour, with various depths in it from 22 to 14 fathoms, over a bottom of soft
white mild ; between the entrance and the group of islands near it to the south-
ward, the depths are from 24 to 30 fathoms, in two safe channels leading from the
eastward and S. Westward. This harbour furnishes excellent fresh water, and the
surrounding land of Mensular and adjoining islands abound with poon spars, tit for
masts or yards of any size that may be required. It is high water at 6 hours on full
and change of moon, the rise of the tide only about 4 feet. At the N.W. end of the
island there is a considerable waterfall, wliich issues from a high hill. If a ship
coming from the northward is not bound to Tappanooly, she may, after passing Bird
Island, steer for the N.W. end of Mensular, and proceed along the west side of it,
which is a bold shore ; but she ouglit not to stand far out, on account of Pulo Doa
and the adjacent shoals. These are a larger and smaller isle, with some dangers near
them, distant 3 and 4 leagues to the S.W. of Mensular ; other dangers lie to the north-
ward, between them and Pulo Lacotta, which are avoided by keeping well to the
eastward after ])assing Bird Island.
The Claudine, April 12th, 1817, struck on a reef extending about H miles E. by S.
and W. by N., the Sugar Loaf bearing N. E. by E. about 5^ or 6 leagues, the west-
ernmost point of Mensular N. by E. ^ E., and Pulo Doa N.W. by N.; about a cable's
length from it she had 38 fathoms, and only 1 1 feet where she struck, whicii was
within half a cable's length of a patch level with the water's edge, that appeared to be
the eastern extremity of the reef. In a S.W. direction, at the same time, a very ex-
tensive reef of breakers was seen, with a rock above water 4 or 5 miles distant.
NASSY SEE TOUNKAS, or SUGAR LOAF, in lat. 1° 35' N., a small conical
island, bearing S.S.W. 9 miles from Ponchang Cacheel in Tappanooly Harbour, is
the leading mark for ships bound out of that harbour to the southward, it being con-
spicuous, and is the southernmost of the islands in the south part of the great bay of
Tappanooly, situated nearly mid-way between Batoo Mama, the southern extremity of
the bay, and the east end of Mensular. To the eastward of the Sugar Loaf, betwixt
it and Batoo Mama Point and Pulo Baccar, the nearest island to the N. Eastward,
there is an open passage, with soundings from 14 to 19 fathoms ; but as a rock lies
betwixt the point and Baccar, on the east side of this passage, and from the N.W. side
of the latter, likewise from the N.E. side of the Sugar Loaf, reefs project about a
cable's length, the passage to the westward is generally jjreferred.
Departing from Tappanooly Harbour, a ship should steer about S.S.W. for the
Tappanooly by Sugar Loaf, which may be passed on either side ; but the western channel, betwixt it
ciiannei, aud the entrance of Mensular Harbour, is the best, being nearly 5 miles wide, with
regular soundings 22 and 23 fathoms from side to side ; the Sugar Loaf being steep at
the west end, with 21 and 22 fathoms close to it. When abreast of it, a southerly
course should be steered until in 25 fathoms, observing not to bring it to the westward
Nassy See
Tounkas, or
Sugar Loaf.
To sail from
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
89
of North till this depth is obtained, to avoid a shoal of coral rocks, said to lie to the
S. Eastward of it about 3 or 4 miles.
PULO ILLY, an island near the main, about a mile in length, moderately high Puio iiiy
and even, bears from the Sugar Loaf about S. by E. f E., distant 6 leagues ; from
26 to 22 fathoms are good depths to preserve in coasting between them, ' and Pulo
Illy may be passed in 18 or 20 fathomfe, or farther ofl'in 24 or 25 fathoms, distant from
it 4 or 5 miles. There is anchorage under this island, and it affords wood and good
water.
THE ZELODY* ISLANDS, the northernmost, are about 5 or 6 leagues to the zeiody islands.
southward of Pulo Illy ; in passing along here, 24 and 25 fathoms are good depths to
preserve, and as the outermost Zeiody Island is a considerable way from the main, with
20 or 21 fathoms near it, a ship ought to give it a bertli of 3 or 4 miles, to avoid the Directions.
shoals in its vicinity. There is anchorage and shelter from N. Westers under these
three islands, with good water and coco-nuts upon them ; but the coast between them
and Cara-cara Point is generally avoided, as several shoals lie at a considerable dis-
tance from it, with Pulo Tellore and Pulo Capechong, two small islands, lying in the
bight inside of them. One of the outermost and most dangerous of these shoals, on
which the Syren struck, bears S. ^ E., distant 3|^ leagues from the outer Zeiody Island,
having only 7 feet water on it, and is not always visible in fine weather. There is a
passage inside of it, with anchorage, by keeping in 14 and 15 fathoms, but that on the
outside is preferable. To avoid it, a ship, after passing the Zeiody Islands at 4 or 5
miles' distance, should steer to the southward, observing to keep the outer island to
the eastward of North, and not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms soft ground, until
Cara-cara Point bears about E. S. E., which will carry her 2 or 3 miles outside of it, as
the shoal lies in 20i fathoms water.
Natal Hill, situated on the north side the river, appears like a gunner's quoin when
it bears S. E. by E., and may be known by its barren aspect, and having low land on
each side ; when seen, it ought to be kept open with Cara-cara Point, to avoid the
shoal, and if not bound into Natal, keep out in 21 or 22 fathoms in passing the shoals
that front the bay. There is a coral bank about 7 leagues off Mensular, on corai Bank,
which the Success Gaily grounded, and had 35 fathoms close to. When on the
edge of the shoal in 24 fathoms, observed lat. 1° 3,V N., the Sugar Loaf bearing
N. by E. ^ E., Pulo Illy supposed E. ^ S., Pulo Nyas from W. ^ N. to W. ^ S., distant
G or 7 leagues.
NATAL BAY has in it many dangerous shoals, the outermost of them extending Natui Bay.
nearly 2 leagues off shore into 17 or 18 fathoms water, which renders great care
necessary, in sailing to, or from the anchorage, for many ships have struck on these
shoals.
The Royal Bishop Shoal, on which the ship of that name struck, is small, with only Royal Bishop
14 feet on the shoalest part, and lies in 17 fathoms. Cara-cara Point bears from it ^'""''
N. E. ^ N., Natal Flagstaff E. f S., and Pulo Tamong S. S. E. i E. From another
shoal, having on it 13 or 14 feet coral, Cara-cara Point bears N. ^ E., Natal Flagstaff
E. by N. ^ N., and Pulo Tamong S. by E. ^ E. The Shaftsbury Reef, on which the shaftsbury
ship of that name was lost, lies farther in, on the east side the channel, and Natal Flag- '^''^'^
Properly Keladee or Cloddy, the name of a species of wild yam, with which they are said to abound.
VOL. II. N
90
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Cara-oara and
other Shoals.
To sail into
Natal Bay.
Anchorage.
Position of
Natal.
staff bears from the west end of it E. by N. ^ N. Cara-cara Shoal, on the west
side the channel, bears from Shaftsbury Reef N. by W. nearly 3 miles, being situated
about H miles S. E. ^ S. from Pulo Cara-cara, the small island near the shore to the
eastward of Cara-cara Point. There are other shoals, the positions of which are not
correctly known ; ships, therefore, should keep a boat a-head sounding, when bound
into the bay.
Ships coming from the northward, bound to Natal Road, after Cara-cara Point
bears about E. S. E., in 19 or 20 fathoms, may steer to round it at 3 or 4 miles' dis-
tance, by keeping Natal Flagstaff about E. by S., which will carry them nearly in mid-
channel between the Shaftsbury and Cara-cara Shoals. When Pulo Cara-cara bears
N. E. by N. they will be clear of the shoal that projects from it, betwixt which and
the island there is a small channel ; they may then continue to steer direct towards
Natal Hill until near the road, then edge a little to the southward, and anchor with
the Flagstafi" East or E. by N. Ships coming from the southward may pass either
inside or outside the Royal Bishop Shoal ; if they keep in 14 or 15 fathoms soft
ground, they will pass inside of it, or by keeping in 19 fathoms it will be passed on the
outside ; after bringing Natal Hill or Flagstaff about E. by S., but never to the south-
ward of E. by S. ^ S. when in 14 fathoms, they may steer in for the road as directed
above. The common anchorage is from 5 to 6 fathoms, with the Flagstaff East to
E. by N. i N., and nearly in a direct line between Cara-cara Point and Racatt Point,
which bear about N. N.W. and S. S. E. from each other, the latter forming tlie east
side of the anchorage ; and in this station, the
or 2 miles, and from Natal 2^ or 3 miles.
Captain Thornhill, of the David Scott, who was at Natal in May, 1825, is of opinion,
that so long as the centre of Natal Hill bears between E. by S. and E. by S. ^ S. by
compass, a ship will pass into the road with safety. A ship should not approach
nearer than 2^ or 3 miles to Cara-cara Point and Island, to avoid the shoal that lies off
the island, and when the point bears N. by W., she will be within the shoals, and may
then edge away gradually to the southward, until Natal Flagstaff bears E. by N., then
anchor in 6 or 5 fathoms, but not under the latter depth in a large ship.
Captain Thornhill sounded on the edge of Cara-cara Shoal, and from 5 fathoms
shoaled suddenly to 6 feet coi-al rocks, Natal Hill bearing E. by S. f S.
When on Racatt Shoal, in 5 feet coral bottom, Natal Hill bore N. E. | N., Pulo
Tamong S. f E., Durian Point S. E. ^ S., Cara-cara Hill N. by E. I E., off Racatt
Point about 1 or 1:| miles.
Natal is in lat. 0° 33' N., and about Ion. 99° 2' E., by chronometers from Madras.
Camphor, benzoin, and gold-dust, are the principal articles of export ; the imports,
opium, iron in flat bars, salt, piece-goods of various kinds, stick-lack, gun-powder, &c.
But the road is one of the worst on the coast, being much exposed to N.W. and
westerly winds.
distance from Racatt Point will be 1^
Pulo Tamong.
PULO TAMONG, about 3^ leagues to the southward of Natal Road, and near
the coast, has good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms, between it and the main. Small
vessels bound from Natal Road to the anchorage at Pulo Tamong sometimes pass
inside the shoals, keeping near Point Racatt, and Durian Point, a little to the south-
ward of the road ; taking care not to deepen above 6 fathoms till past the latter point,
on account of two shoals that lie out in 7 and 8 fathoms. It is best, in a large ship, to
steer out to the westward through the proper channel into 14 fathoms, and preserve
this depth until Pulo Tamong is brought to bear E. S, E. or E. by S. ; she may then
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
91
steer for the north part of that island, and after rounding it at a moderate distance,
anchor with the body of it bearing about West in 6^ or 7 fathoms, distant a quarter of
a mile from the shore. The well containing good water is then abreast, on the low wood and
land near a small white sandy beach ; fire- wood may also be got, and a ship is sheltered "'"^^'^'
from w esterly winds. In sailing to or from this anchorage, it is prudent to keep a boat
sounding a-head on the edge of the reef, that stretches out 2 or 2^ cables' lengths from
the island in some parts, with 6 fathoms close to it. There is a safe passage betwixt
the south end of the island and the main.
Small sliips coming from the southward, intending to enter Natal Road by the inner
passage, may pass in mid-channel between Pulo Tamong and the main, in G to 8
fathoms. When through, the course is N. by W. and N. |^ W. for Durian Point, ob-
serving not to come under 9 fathoms in passing about mid-way between it and Pulo
Tamong, on account of a shoal of coral rock with 10 and 11 feet water on it, which
lies in 7 or 8 fathoms. When near Durian Point, borrow into 5 or 5^ fathoms ; and
in steering the same course towards the road, do not exceed 6 fathoms at the utmost,
in passing it and Racatt Point, on account of the shoals that lie off these points, in
6^ to 8 fathoms. The snow Marlbro', in 1791, struck and beat off her rudder on one
of the shoals, with Racatt Point E. ^S., Durian Point S. E. easterly, Cara-cara Hill
North, Natal Hill N.E. byE., outer extreme of PuloTamongS.^E., and another shoal
with breakers S. W. by W. After getting off, she anchored in 7 fathoms soft ground
betwixt these shoals, aboiit 2 miles distant from Racatt Point.
AYER BONGY BAY, about 4 or 5 leagues to the S. Eastward of Pulo Tamong, Ayer Bongy
has several fronting islands and shoals ; ships not intending to touch at Ayer Bongy ^^5'-
should keep well out in 26 to 30 fathoms water after passing Pulo Tamong, or nearer
to the islets and shoals ofl'the east end of Pulo Batoa than to the main, to avoid a shoal
or bank, with irregular soundings from 15 to 4 fathoms coral on it, or probably less,
and close to it 20 fathoms. It is extensive, and lies about 3 leagues S. W. by S. from
Pulo Tamong, nearly mid-way betwixt the main of Sumatra and the small islands
adjoining to the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, the latter being a large island in the ofhng.
There are three small islands off the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, and a dangerous shoal,
with some of the rocks above water, about 4 miles distant from the islands : when the
rocks are on with the centre of the islands, they bear S. S. W., and about a league
inside of them there are 24 fathoms, hard ground.
Ayer Bongy is in lat. 0° 11' 42' N., Ion. 99° 21' E., by chronometers, measured from
Madras ; and if bound there, from the anchorage under Pulo Tamong, steer about Directions.
S. S. W. between the main and the island in 5 and (J fathoms, soft ground, keeping
rather nearest to the latter : from this island to Oojong Lalloo, the west point of Ayer
Bongy Bay, pass inside the shoal mentioned above, by steering along the coast in 9 or
10 fathoms, which will be about H or 2 miles oH" shore. By keeping in these depths,
the shoal to the S.W. of Pulo Tamong will be avoided, and the shore, which in this
space contains some bays or concavities, is safe to approach to 5| or ti fathoms.
The sea breaks on some of the shoals off Ayer Bongy Bay, when there is much
swell, and between most of them there are safe channels, but the shoals are not always
discernible when the sea is smooth. About 4 miles of! Oojong Lalloo, with Pulo Pan-
cal E.S.E. ^ S., there is a dangerous shoal, having only 9 feet on the shoalest part, and Dangerous
14 to 17 fathoms near it on the outside. The Prince Henry struck, and beat ofl" her ^'""''•
rudder on this siioal in the night, when running for Ayer Bongy, after having anchored
in the evening in 17 fathoms, hard ground, and parted from two anchors, by tlie rocks
N 2
92
SUMATRA, WEST COAST
Anchorage.
cutting the cables in blowing weather. Great care is requisite in passing Oojong
Lalloo, for several shoals front this part of the coast, the situations of which are im-
perfectly known. The ship Sylph beat off her rudder upon one of them in 1796, with
the outer extreme of PuloTamong bearing N. N.W., and the point, with a small island
near it, commonly called Oojong Lalloo, N. by W. westerly, 2 or 3 miles distant. Most
of these shoals are from 2 to 4 miles off Oojong Lalloo, and bear between S. by E. and
S. S. E. from Pnlo Tamong. There is a passage inside all of them, by keeping within
1^ or 2 miles of the main, in from 4 to 6 fathoms, soft ground, when passing Oojong
Lalloo and the two next points to the S. Eastward, then proceeding between Pulo
Panjang and the main, to the anchorage under that island. This passage seems im-
proper for large ships; and vessels of every description, by whatever channel they
enter Ayer Bongy Bay, must keep a good look-out for the numerous shoals.
Puio Panjang. Pulo Panjang, in lat. 0° 12' N., Ion. 99° 17' 10" E., by chronometers from Madras
in 1822, is the largest island in the bay.
The small island Pulo Tanca lies near Oojong Lalloo, betwixt which and Pulo
Panca, or Pancal, situated about a league southward from the former, the passage is
safe, and the depths 10 or 11 fathoms, soft bottom; the passage into the bay is also
safe to the eastward of Pulo Pancal, between it and Pulo Tellore, in lat. 0° 7' 16" N.,
situated at the S. E. part of the bay ; and there is also a channel with 6 and 7 fathoms
water in it, betwixt that island and Oojong Seecarboa, the S. Eastern extremity of the
bay. A ship having entered the bay by the most convenient passage, may steer for
Ayer Bongy flag-staff, situated on a bluff point or hill at the S. E. part of the bay,
close to the north end of which is the river and landing-place. The common anchorage
is abreiistthe river, bearing E. by N. ^ N., distant about a league, in 4^ or 5 fathoms,
good ground. There is also anchorage undei' Pulo Panjang, the largest island in the
bay, bearing about W. by S. from Ayer Bongy river, having a reef with breakers to the
northward of it about a mile. Betwixt this island and Pulo Jambo, or Sambo, a suiall
island to the westward, there is said to be a clear passage. To the northward of Pulo
Tellore there is a reef, with breakers, and another to the eastward near the main,
which require care in passing through the channels contiguous to that island.
To the southward of Ayer Bongy south point, which is of bluff appearance, there
are several shoals ; ships bound from that anchorage to tiie S. Eastward generally
keep inside near the coast, until clear of them. Two of these shoals bear S. E. | E.
from Pulo Tellore,* and lie close together ; from a small hill to the southward of
Oojong Seecarboa, called also Oojong Gading, they bear S. S. VV., and are distant
from tlie point about 4 miles. There is a channel between these and another small
shoal bearing S. S. E. 1 mile from them, having in it 14 and 16 fathoms. His Ma-
jesty's ship Drake, September ist, 1809, struck on a small coral shoal, with the peak
of Mount Ophir E.by N., Pulo Tellore North, Lalloo Point JN.W. offshore 3 leagues,
having close to it 23 fathoms, soft mud.
Mount Ophir. MOUNT OPHIR, in lat. 0° 5' N., Ion. 100° 0' E., by chronometers from Madras,
situated about 8 leagues inland, to the eastward of Oojong Seecarboa, appears like an
obtuse cone by itself, separated from the chain of other mountains, and may be seen
1 10 miles in clear weather, it being the iiighest mountain on Sumatra visible from the
sea. A volcanic mountain to the southward, about 9 or 10 leagues inland, is some-
what less elevated.
* These shoals are said by another navigator to bear S.E. by S. from Pulo Tellore, in a line ; the southern-
most distant from it about 4 miles. There are others about 6 miles to the S. Eastward of that island.
Shoals to the
southward.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 93
To the southward of Ayer Bongy Shoals there appear to be other shoals in the shoaisinthe
offing abreast of the Passamane Bay, one of which, about two cables' lengths in diame- °*"^'
ter, is thought to have 3 fathoms water on the shoalest part, with 21 and 22 fathoms
close to it all round ; the Prince Henry got on it, and saw the rocks along-side, with
Oojong Seecarboa bearing N. byW.|- W., the largest of Oojong Massang Hills E. by
S., and a small hummock East, taken for the true point, the trees on the low land just
visible from the deck, distant about 5 leagues. This shoal, consisting of black coral, is
not easily discerned.
in the Luconia, high breakers were seen on another shoal, bearing about S. W. by
W. from Oojong Massang, which was thought to be about 6 leagues off shore, but
Captain Bennet thinks it lies 8 or 9 leagues from the shore. With the largest of the
Massang hills E. by N., there is said to be a shoal with breakers about 5 miles off
shore, in 15 or l(i fathoms water.
OOJONG MASSANG, or Point Massang, situated in lat. 0^ 17' S. nearly, and oojong Mas-
about 10 leagues S. E. by E. from Ayer Bongy Bay, has a reef of foul ground stretch- ^^-'g '"""^'"*-
ing out about 2 or 2j miles, which should not be approached under 17 fathoms; and
near the point are the three Massang hills, the middle or largest having a tabular
form, and the others resembling haycocks. Between this place and the south point of
Ayer Bongy Bay, which is of middling height, the coast is low, and forms the Bay of
Passamane.
If a ship departing from Ayer Bongy Road intend to proceed to the southward To pass inside
inside the shoals, where the lead is a good guide and the anchorage safe, she ought to *''**'"'^'''
keep in from 5 to 8 fathoms, within 2 miles of the shore until abreast of Oojong See-
carboa, and pass this point about 1 mile distant; she may then, in daylight, borrow
towards the shoals to 12 fathoms, but not under 9 fathoms towards the main, after the
point bears about N. N. E., when turning to windward. When 3 leagues to the S. E.
of Pulo Tellore, she may stand out to 15 or 16 fathoms, and keep in these depths, or
steer a course for Oojong Massang, without hauling into Passamane Bay under 12
fathoms, or approaching too near the shoals in the offing, observing not to come under
17 fathoms in passing Oojong Massang.
To pass outside the dangers, after being clear of the shoal 3 leagues S. W. by S. To pass outside
from Pulo Tamong, a ship ought to keep well out in 25 or 2t) fathoms, gradually "f""^""-
rounding the shoals off Ayer Bongy ; having cleared these, she should haul to the east-
ward to make Oojong Massang Hills, and round that point at 3 miles" distance in 17
or 18 fathoms, then keep in 17 to 20 fathoms for the outer Ticoo Island, observing to
round it on the west side within a mile in 10 or 17 fathoms. A ship departing from
Ayer Bongy Bay should, if this passage be adopted, sail out between Puco Pancal
and Pulo Tellore, then steer S. by E. and S. S. E. until in 24 or 25 fathoms, and not
come under 20 fathoms until near Oojong Massang ; a good look-out is necessary for
the 3 fathoms shoal of the Prince Henry, mentioned above.
TICOO ISLANDS, distant about 3 leagues to the S. E. of Oojong Massang, are Tkoo islands.
three in number, small and woody, about 1^ miles apart, and the innermost is the same
distance from the main. The proper channel is within a mile of the west and south
sides of tlie outer island, in 15 to 17 fathoms, to avoid a shoal bearing from it about
S. W. by W. 4 miles, in 25 fathoms, over which the swell may be seen to roll when it
is abreast, if there is much sea: another shoal lies S.W. about 5 leagues from the
outer Ticoo Island, no ground 50 fathoms near it. Should night be approaching, a
94 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
ship may anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the outermost island bearing West, distant
about half a mile. This island is in lat. 0° 23' S., and bears S. E. ^ S, from Oojong
Seecarboa.
In coming near these islands from the southward, breakers appear, which seem to
deny any passage among them ; but betwixt the inner and middle islands there is a
safe channel on either side a small coral bank, about a cable's length in diameter,
situated about a cjuarter of mile from the innermost, and about a quarter of a mile from
the middle island. It is steep to all round, with 7, 8, and 9 fathoms betwixt it and the
middle island, but the passage on this side is much contracted by a spit projecting
nearly 2 cables' lengths from the N. E. end of the island. This passage between it
and the inner island has good room for anchoring occasionally, with soundings 0^ and
7 fathoms near the small bank, to G and 5 fathoms close to the island, over a soft
bottom. From the south end of the inner island a shoal stretches out nearly a quarter
of a mile, with 5^ fathoms, soft ground, close to, which must be avoided by a ship
adopting the inner channel just described. To the southward of the middle island,
distant about half a mile, the sea breaks on some rocks, to which a proper berth must
be given, in ships that run under these islands for shelter from N.W. winds.
To the southward of the Ticoo Islands there are several shoals, and a great many
others, well out in the offing, lie scattered from hence to the southward of Priamam,
which may be considered the most dangerous part of the coast.
Puiocassey. PULO CASSEY, or Cassiqua, in about lat. 0°36' S., bearing about S. E. 6 or 7
leagues from the Ticoo Islands, is covered with trees, very small, with a sandy beach,
and distant about a league from the main. The passage in this track, inside the prin-
cipal shoals, is generally considered the best, by keeping in from 16 to 12 or 10 fathoms,
and the coast is safe to approach to 6 or 7 fathoms in many places. Some navigators
state that there are no shoals under 16 fathoms on this part of the coast ; others assert
that some shoals are situated near it in 5 or 6 fathoms. The best guide, therefore, is,
after leaving the Ticoo Islands, to keep in soft ground from 16 to 10 or 11 fathoms, for
the bottom is all soft, except when near a shoal.
The coast from the Ticoo Islands to Pulo Cassey is a little hilly, and lies about S.E.
by E. A shoal flat projects out nearly 2 miles in some places, on which the depths
decrease regularly to 5 fathoms about 2 miles offshore. Exclusive of the shoal to the
S.Westward of the outer Ticoo Island, already mentioned, the others, bounding the pas-
sage on the west side, are, one bearing about S. S. E. from the outer Ticoo Island, and
nearly N.W. by W. from Pulo Cassey; when the breakers on it bore from West to N.W.,
distant about 2 miles, the depth was 16 fathoms : another, on which the sea sometimes
breaks, bearing about S. E. by S. from the outer Ticoo Island, and nearly N.W. by W.
from Pulo Cassey, with 20 fathoms close to it on the east side ; and there is one,
with 3 fathoms on it, bearing S. S. E. southerly from the outer Ticoo Island, and
N.W. f VV. from the northernmost of the three Priaman Islands, being that nearest to
Pulo Cassey. Betwixt some of these shoals there are safe channels ; the Duke had
no ground 35 fathoms in passing between two of them, about 5 leagues S. S. E. from
the Ticoo Islands.
uiaZT ^ii^ PRIAMAN ISLANDS, three in number, lie abreast of the settlement of the
same name on the main, about a league distant, afford shelter from N. W. or Westerly
winds, and the northernmost has on it a well of fresh water, where ships are supplied.
From this the middle island is distant about IJ miles to the S. S.W., with 7 fathoms
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
95
water in the channel between them ; but a reef of breakers projects about 2 cables'
lengths from the west part of the northern island, having close to it 7 fathoms. The
channel inside the northernmost island, having only 3^ fathoms near the island, and
decreasing gradually towards the main, is only fit for small ships. From the middle
island, the southernmost one is distant 2 miles to the S.S. Eastward, and each of them
is about half a mile in extent. There are several shoals about 2 or 3 miles to the west-
ward of these islands, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, having 14 or 15 fathoms
near them ; but betwixt them and the islands the passage is safe, by keeping near the
latter, in from 10 to 6 or 7 fathoms. The northernmost of this chain or group of
shoals bears West from Pulo Cassey 2 or 3 miles, with a safe channel betwixt it and
that island, with depths of 12 or 14 fathoms. On the east side of Pulo Cassey there
is also a safe channel, with 6 fathoms near the island, decreasing regularly from 5
fathoms, about half a mile from it, to 3 and 2 fathoms about half a mile from the main.
To the N.N.E. of this island, more than half-way to the main, there is said to be some
rocks, with 4 fathoms outside of them.
From the Ticoo
Islands to Pria-
raan and Pa-
dang by the
Inner Passage.
PRIAMAN (the Flagstaff), in about lat. 0° 40' S., bears nearly S. E. ^ E., 8 miles Priama.
from Pulo Cassey ; the river is small, and the entrance so shoal, that a pinnace cannot ^^""^'•
go in until near high water, and even then, not without danger. A little way out from
the mouth of the river there is a bank, having on its north and south ends two patches
of sand above water; within it, there are 2 fathoms sandy bottom.
If you intend to proceed by the inner passage from the Ticoo Islands to Priaman or
Padang, after having steered along the coast in from 16 to 8 or 10 fathoms, you may,
when Pulo Cassey is approached, pass on either side of it at a small distance, as the
wind permits, then steer through betwixt the middle and nortliernmost Priaman
Islands, and anchor inside, under shelter of them. If bound to Padang, continue to
keep near the east sides of the middle and southernmost islands in passing, and steer
along the coast at a moderate distance until Pulo Ayer is approached, there being no
danger in this part. There is a channel inside that island, but it is advisable to pass
about 2 or 3 miles' distance outside, to avoid a shoal said to lie S. S.W. from it ;
when clear of this shoal, a direct course may be steered for Padang Flagstaff", or for the
anchorage under Pulo Pisang, should unfavourable weather be apprehended, where
ships are sheltered from N.W. and Westerly winds, this being the proper road.
Pulo Ayer, or Sow Island, called also Pulo Carong, distant about H miles from the
sliore, and 3 leagues to the N.W. of Padang Head, is small, with a reef projecting from
its south end about a quarter of a mile : a shoal is thought to lie S. E. from it, and
another to the S. S. Westward, stretching out a great way.
THE PADANG ISLANDS, seven in number, lie in the ofling, and have several Padang
dangers amongst them. They are named numerally, Pulo Sato or 1st, Pulo Dua 2nd, *^"'*^*
Pulo Teega .3rd, Pulo Ainpat 4th, Pulo Leema 5th, Pulo Annam 6th, and Puloo
Toojoo the 7th.
Pulo Sato, the easternmost, is small, high, and flat, distant about 2i leagues W.N. W.
of Pulo Pisang, and has a reef off its N.E. point about a mile, or rather an island just
forming, called Pulo Passier.
Pulo Dua is a little larger than Sato, and lies to the S.W., having a safe passage
between tiieni.
Pulo Teega, about 4 miles to the southward of Dua, and 3 leagues to the W.S.W. of
Pisang, is the largest of these islands ; breakers and foul ground stretch from it a great
96
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — PADANG.
Padang Head.
Supplies.
Fadang River.
Anchorage.
way to the N. Eastward, nearly shutting up the passage betwixt it and Pulo Dua,
which is thought to be dangerous.
Pulo Ampat, about the size of Dua, lies to the westward, bearing from Pulo Leeina
S.W. iS.
Pulo Leeina, one of the innermost islands, bearing about N.W. from Pulo Pisang and
Pulo Sato, is small ; a reef is said to project from it about 2*miles to the S.W. ; another
to lie 2 or .') miles to the N. E. ; one navigator says, E. S. E. 2 miles from it; but on
the North side it is clear, and there is thought to be a safe passage betwixt it and Pulo
Sato.
Pulo Annam, bearing from Pulo LeemaW. ^ S., is of considerable size, and appears
the last island in coming from the southward, as Toojoo is not then in sight ; to the
northward, and also betwixt it and Ampat, there are said to be shoals.
Puloo Toojoo, the northernmost of these islands, is nearly of the size of the former,
and bears S. S.W. ^ W. from Pulo Cassey, to the northward of the Priamans. A coral
bank, bearing N.W. by W. about 3 leagues from it, should be approached with caution,
for it is steep from no ground to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, and there may be less water on
it. Close to, and amongst all these islands, the water is deep, and there is no good
anchorage.
PADANG HEAD, in lat. 0° 56' S., about Ion. 100° 12' E., having on it the Flag-
staff, is a high bluff headland, with a rock close to it called the Whale, and forms the
S.W. side of the river's entrance; about a mile up on the north bank, the fort and
TOWN are situated, but there are also houses and gardens on the opposite side. Bul-
locks, poultry, various fruits, and vegetables may be got here at moderate prices ; and
excellent water issuing from the rocks on the south side the river, which is conveyed
in spouts to the boats.
The river is only navigable by boats or small vessels in fine weather, the depths at
low water being 8 and 9 feet at the entrance, and from 9 to 14 feet a little way inside,
and the rise of tide is about 2^ feet on the springs. It is very dangerous to enter the
river when the wind blows strong at west or north-west, for the sea then breaks
entirely across the entrance, and a continued breaker extends from Padang Head to
the S.W. point of the shoal that stretches nearly from it to within half a mile of the
north end of Pulo Pisang. This place is in possession of the Dutch,* from which gold-
dust, benzoin, and other articles, are exported, in exchange for opium, blue and white
cloth, and other piece-goods.
In approaching it from the offing, the head will easily be known by its bluff aspect,
and the coast from it southward being all bold high land ; whereas, the land near the
sea to the northward of the river is low, and all the coast is low from thence to
Priaman, but far in the country the land is generally high.
A ship arriving when the weather is favourable, and intending to remain a little
time, may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms soft ground, with the Flagstaff bearing E. | N.
or E., distant from the bluff headland I5 or If miles. If the weather is threatening, or
the stay to be 3 or 4 days, it will be prudent to proceed to the proper road, under Pulo
Pisang.
Pulo Pisang. PULO PISANG, about 2 miles S. by W. from Padang Head, is a small island,
about half a mile in diameter, where water may be got by digging wells 4 or 5 feet deep,
* And the whole of the settlements on the coast of Sumatra are now possessed by the Dutch, in conformity
with the late treaty.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — PASSAGES TO AND FROM PADANG. 97
at the foot of the hills ; the water, although soft and pleasant to taste, is said to be
impregnated with saltpetre, and not very wholesome : the firewood is also indifferent.
The rocky coral bank, stretching about 40 jards from the shore of this island, is steep
to all round, and at the ]\. E. part there is a wharf for the convenience of landing :
ships trading- to Padang moor close to the east and S. E. sides of the island, sheltered
from N.W. and westerly winds. When these winds pi'evail, boats cannot pass between
Padang- River and the ships under Pulo Pisang, on account of the breakers stretching
across the passage.
All round Pulo Pisang there is a safe passage of 6 and 7 fathoms, but it is narrow in channels.
some places, particularly betwi.xt the north end of the island and the extensive shoal
bank that occupies most of the space between it and Padang Head, on the shoalest
part of which are only 2^ and 2^ fathoms hard sand ; this passage is not above a third
of a mile wide, and is seldom used by large ships. The deepest water is close, or near
to Pulo Pisang; a ship, to enter by the north channel, must bring the island well to To sail to the
the eastward, and round the north end in 7 or 8 fathoms about the distance of a cable's ''"'^''°™se-
length or little more: the water will shoal as she runs in, to (J and 5 fathoms, which
is the least near the island ; but towards the main, and Pulo Pisang Keecheel, or Little
Pulo Pisang, lying near it to the eastward, the depths decrease to 4 and 3 fathoms
hard sand. Having rounded the island close, and brought the wharf to bear W. by N.,
or W. N.W., she may moor in 5^ or 6 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths from the island.
Large ships should always use the other channel in proceeding to the anchorage under
Pulo Pisang, by steering direct for the west side of the island, and rounding it on the
south side about a quarter of a mile distant ; after bringing the body of the island to
bear about N.W. by W., they may anchor and moor in 5 or 5^ fathoms mud, about
2 cables' lengths from it, where they will be sheltered from westerly winds.
In sailing from the TICOO ISLANDS to PADANG, if not intending to touch at outci- Passage
Priaman, ships frequently pass outside the Priaman Islands and shoals, which is by i™andfto^pr
some persons thought the best route. If adopted, keep in from l(j to 12 fathoms until 'ia"s
within o or miles of Pulo Cassey, then steer out betwixt the shoals which lie to the
westward of that island and those to the southward of the Ticoo Islands, until in 35
or 40 fathoms, and from hence steer to the southward for Pulo Toojoo ; after passing
near it on the east side, steer to pass Pulo Leema and Pulo Sato, also on the same
sides, and from thence to the anchorage under Pulo Pisang. If the w ind be contrary,
a ship, in working inside of these islands, ought not to borrow towards the main in the
bight to the southward of Pulo Ayer, where there is said to be a slioal ; nor too near
the other shoal, to the S. S. Westward of that island.
From OOJONG LALLOO(AyerBongy Bay)to PADANG, the outer passageseems Passage from
preferable to any other with a fair wind ; but as the current usually runs with the wind, foTaaa^g"""
this passage is not convenient in contrary winds, particularly w lien l)ound to the north-
ward, being destitute of anchorage. If this route be chosen, at passing PuloTamong,
keep well over towards the islets off' the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, to avoid the bank,
nearly mid-way betwixt them and the main: having brought them to bear about
N.W., steer to fall in with Pulo Toojoo, and passing to the eastward of it, of Pulo
Leema, and of Pulo Sato, steer for the anchorage under Pulo Pisang, as directed
above; or if it seem preferable with the prevailing wind, you may steer to the south-
ward, outside Pulo Toojoo, Pulo Annam, and Pulo Ampat, then to the eastward be-
twixt Pulo Dua and Pulo Sato, keeping near to the latter in passing to avoid the
VOL. II. o
I'isang to the
iiortluvaril.
98 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
2 fathoms shoal that lies about 4 miles S. by E. ^ E. from it, and from the south
point of Pulo Pisang \V. by S. southerly 2 leagues. From Pulo Sato, steer direct for
the anchorage under Pulo Pisang. It would be imprudent to attempt to pass betwixt
Pulo Dua and Pulo Teega, for the rocks stretching across seem to deny any safe
passage.
Passage iioni Jf bound to Moco Moco, and not to touch at Padang, continue to keep outside of
to°Moco i\?oeo. ''11 tbe inner islands adjacent to the coast, between which and the chain of large
islands in the offing there is a safe channel, from 10 to 12 leagues wide ; but a small
dry sand, about 3 or 4 leagues N.VV. from Pulo Musquito, and nearly the same dis-
tance from Pulo Toojoo, must be avoided. It will be proper to keep nearest to the
inner islands, and make Idrapour Point, to prevent being driven leeward when north-
erly winds prevail.
Passage from From PULO PISANG to the NORTHWARD by the MIDDLE PASSAGE,
the course is N.W. by N., to pass between Pulo Leema and Pulo Ayer about mid-
channel, in soundings 22 to 26 fathoms; by which, the shoal projecting E. S. E.
2 miles from Pulo Leema, and the coral patches near Pulo Ayer, will be avoided.
Having passed these islands, there is no danger till the Priaman Islands are ap-
proached ; the coast may be borrowed on to 10 or 12 fathoms, when necessary to
anchor.
On drawing near to the Priaman Islands, haul out for Pulo Toojoo, to avoid a large
shoal bearing W. S. W. 2 miles from the outer Priaman Island. When well over
towards Pulo Toojoo, a N.W. ^ W. or N.W. by W. course should be steered, to avoid
the shoal bearing W. N. W. from that island, and others lying in 30 and 35 fathoms,
towards the shore. When 5 leagues to the N.W. of Pulo Toojoo, haul in again
towards the main to make the outer Ticoo Island, for a shoal bears S.W. from it about
5 leagues, having no ground near it with 50 fathoms line ; and another shoal bears
W. S. W. from it about 3 miles.* Being clear of these, steer about N. W. by W. to
pass between the small islands oft" the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa and Oojong Lalloo,
taking care to keep between 25 and 30 fathoms, for in 20 and 22 fathoms lie several
shoals; and in 34 fathoms, a very large and dangerous one. The soundings, there-
fore, must be the principal guide in this run of about 15 leagues; which may be pur-
sued night or day with proper attention to the lead, and preserving tlie depths
mentioned.
When Pulo Batoa is seen bearing about N.W. by W., or W. N. W., steer over for
the islands off" its S. E. end ; the depths will be from 16 to 20 fathoms, and when within
4 or 5 miles of them, a course about N.W. by N. should be steered until past the
shoals oft' Natal ; for it would be imprudent to come under 22 fathoms between Pulo
Batoa and the Sugar Loaf, at the south entrance of Tappanooly Bay. If not bound
into that port, Mensular may be passed on the outside at a small distance, to avoid the
shoals in the offing. There is no danger in the channel inside that island, excepting
a shoal in 9 or 10 fathoms near the main, about one-third the distance from Battoo
Barroo Point towards Pulo Sokum. From Mensular, the best course is about W.N.W.,
preserving soundings of 26 to 27 fathoms, by which the Triangle Shoals, and several
others in-shore, will be avoided. When the depths increase to 28 or 29 fathoms, a
N.W. course will be proper, not coming under 22 or 23 fathoms: Pulo Lacotta will
* Another account places it S.W. by W. 4 miles, and Captain Bennet says it lies S.W. 4 miles from the
Ticoo Islands.
1
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 99
be seen, and the small sand-bank bearing N. ^ W. from it, called Bird Island, is said
to lie in 31 fathoms, having a reef extending to the N. W. U or 2 miles. Sinkel
Point, forming a bluff, covered with trees, will be next discerned : this may be
passed about the distance of 4 miles, the depths then decreasing to 18 or 19 fathoms.
Passage Island will soon be seen to the N. Westward, and the greatest caution is
requisite in this part, particularly if the wind is contrary ; sailing towards the island,
it should be kept between N. N. W. and IN. VV. by N., in soundings 1(5 to 14 fathoms,
for about half-way betwixt it and the main, the middle bank extends nearly JN. W.
and S. E., having great overfalls upon it, in some places only 2^ fathoms, rocks
With a leading wind. Passage Island N. W. by N. is the best bearing until within
about half a mile of it, and then it may be rounded about this distance on the east
side. Being through this intricate passage, a course about N. W. should be steered,
then towards any of the northern ports, as circumstances require ; but great care is
requisite in passing between lat. 3° to 4° N., for there are many shoals interspersed
along the coast adjacent to Soosoo Bay, and to the southward of it ; others lie 9 or
10 miles off shore, with no ground 50 and 60 fathoms close to them on the outside.
These outer shoals seem to lie on the edge of the bank of soundings ; one of them is in
lat. 3° 4', and another in 3° 30' N., already mentioned.*
FROM PADANG TO FORT MARLBOROUGH.
FROM PADANG, to the distance of 8 or 9 leagues southward, the coast is inter- coast from Pa.
sected by numerous bays and inlets, several of which, being protected from the sea by f^'rfi.^""'''
the islands contiguous to them, form excellent harbours. The land near the sea is
generally of moderate height, and farther in the country, more elevated.
BOONGAS BAY, about 5 or d miles to the S.E. of Pulo Pisang, is a safe harbour, Boongas Bay.
with 14 or 15 fathoms in the entrance, and from 10 to 6 fathoms inside; but there
being a shoal nearly in the middle of the bay, a little more than a quarter of a mile to
the eastward of the small island Pulo Cassee, it is proper, going in, to keep near the
north point, and anchor between that side and the island, where there is good shel-
ter. There is also a shoal to the N. N. E. of Pulo Cassee, near the north side of the
bay: but by keeping near the island, you pass in safety between it and eitlier of those
shoals, and anchor to the eastward of it, if you do not intend to go inside. At the
S. E. angle of the bay there is a harbour or cove, with 12 to (J fathoms water, secured
from all winds, having shoal water off the point and island that form the N. E. side
of the entrance. There are villages all round this bay, and from thence to Padang.
About W. by N., If miles from the north point of the bay, lies a dangerous rock, with
15 and l(j fathoms close to it, between which and Pulo Teloor, a small island about
a mile to tlie North-eastward, there is a safe passage ; but it is best to pass outside the
rock in 17 or 18 fathoms, and after bringing the entrance of Boongas Bay to bear East,
• See paragraph on Point Labon, p. 81.
O 2
100
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
I'ulo Seiiaro
and surround-
ing dangers.
From Pulo
Pisang to
seaward.
Shoals
From Pulo
Pisang to the
soutliward.
or the middle of a small hill at the bottom of it, on with a higii hill inland, a ship is
clear to the southward of the rock, and may steer direct for the bay ; and when in the
entrance, she must borrow toward the northern side, to avoid the shoal a little inside,
already mentioned.
There is a point of land about 2 miles to the E. S. E. of Pulo Pisang, that forms the
north extreme of Brandy Wine Bay, opposite Pulo Teloor : when that point is in one
with a small hill near it, bearing i\. by E. easterly, the same transit line passes over
the rock mentioned above, and touches the west part of Pulo Seronda, or Bobeck,
then on the opposite bearing.
PULO SENARO, or LACRONE, bears S.S.W. westerly from Pulo Pisang,
distant about 6 miles, from which a reef, always visible, bears S. W. by W, westerly
about a league, being neai'ly mid-way between it and the two fathoms shoal, already
mentioned, to the southward of Pulo Sato. The water is deep, from 33 to 40
fathoms around these shoals, and between them and the adjoining islands ; if, there-
fore, the shoals are seen, or their positions known, a ship may pass between them
with safety.
From Pulo Senaro, a little more than a mile to the N.E., there is another shoal
having on it 3 fathoms, and about 2 miles S. E. by S. from the same island there is a
shoal nearly mid-way betwixt it and Pulo Seronda ; another shoal is said to lie about
a league nearly S. by W. from the former island.
Being bound from Pulo Pisang to the southward, and wishing to run out speedily
clear of the islands into the open sea, a ship may steer to the S. W. to pass close on
the N.W. side of Pulo Senaro, betwixt it and the reef that is always visible, observ-
ing, when the island is approached within 2 miles on the N. E. side, to give a berth
to the 3 fathoms shoal, by edging a little to the westward, and avoiding a direct
line that passes through Pulo Pisang and Padang Head, which also passes through
the shoal. To pass out to the southward of Pido Senaro, when distant 2 miles, it
should be brought to bear S. \V. by W., or W. S.W. ; a direct course, about S.VV., may
then be steered to pass close to its south point, and the same course continued about
2 or 3 miles beyond it will carry a ship clear of the two shoals mentioned to the S. E.
and southward.
The snow Marlbro' struck on a shoal, with only from 6 to 9 feet water over the
coral rock, Puso Pisang bearing N. N.W., Pulo Senaro S. W. |^ W., distant from the
main, 3 miles. The same vessel saw a sandy patch above water, surrounded by a large
coral reef, bearing in one with Pulo Senaro S. E. ^ E., distant from that island 4 or 5
miles; Padang Head bore at the same time IV. E. by E.
The Research found only 2^ fathoms on a shoal, with Pulo Senaro bearing North,
and Pulo Pergany E. S. E. This vessel had 3| fathoms on another shoal, with Pulo
Senaro bearing N. W., distant 2^ miles, and Pulo Seronda S. E. ^ S. Pulo Pergany
bearing East 4 or 5 miles, saw breakers on a shoal in one with Pedang Head N. by E.
Had 5 fathoms rocks on another shoal, with Pulo Niamo bearing N. W., Pulo Ayer
Besar E. by S., and Pulo Babee Besar about E. N. E.
THE BEST ROUTE from Pulo Pisang, when bound southward, is to steer for
Pulo Seronda, or Bobeck, bearing from it nearly South, distant 8 miles, taking care,
with a working wind, to keep Pulo Pisang to the northward of N. N. W. in standing
towards the rock oft' Boongas Bay. When near Pulo Seronda she may steer about
S.S.W. along the west sides of it, Pulo Bintango, and Pulo Marra, the next islands to
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 101
the southward, and on either side of Piilo Niamo, or Musquito, a small island in the
offing, distant about 3 leagues S. by W. | W. from Pulo Seronda. There is also a narrow
but safe passage inside these islands, having soundings from -20 to 36 fathoms, and is
generally adopted as the best : the only known danger is a shoal near half a mile E.N.
eastward from Pulo Oolar, a small island about mid-channel between Bintango and
Marra. Betwixt the shoal and a spit projecting from the north point of Pulo Oolar,
there is a safe passage, and it lies rather nearer to the islands on the east side the
channel than to Pulo Oolar ; but the channel outside of Pulo Oolar, between it, Bin-
tango, and Marra, is clear of danger.
PULO MARRA, in about lat. 1° 12' S., and 1^ miles in extent, is inhabited, and PhIo Marra.
affords good water : there is anchorage in a small bay, formed between the N. E. point
and a reef that projects from an islet to the southward. There is also anchorage under
Pulo Bintango, or Pergany, the middle island on the outside the channel ; and under
all those contiguous to the main that form the east side of the channel, there is an-
chorage from 10 to 20 fathoms, and shelter from N.W. or westerly winds.
Opposite these islands there are three bays or harbours on the main of Sumatra; the
northernmost, Soongey Peesang Bay, bearing about E. by N. from Pulo Seronda, has Soongey Pee-
two rocks in the entrance, with 1^ and 2 fathoms water on them ; between them and sang Bay.
the northern shore, close to the latter, there is a narrow passage with 15 and 17 fathoms,
decreasing inside to 8 and 9 fathoms : there is also a narrow passage between the islets
that lie off' its entrance and the southern point of the bay, but this place is not very safe
for large ships.
Soongey Peenang Bay, bearing about N.E. from Pulo Marra, is safe to enter, by sooupey Pee-
steering in about mid-channel, or borrowing towards the northern side at discretion ; in "^"^ ^''^^
this bay a ship is sheltered from almost every wind, it being only a little open to
S. S. Westward, and the depths are from 16 fathoms in the middle, to 7 or 8 near the
shore, decreasing to 4 and 3 fathoms in the north part.
PULO SAYTAN HARBOUR, formed inside the two large islands Pulo Sabadda Puio saytau
and Pulo Troosan, is about 5 miles in extent, N.W. and S.E., and very safe, the depths "*^'"*"'^-
in it generally from 16 to 8 or 9 fathoms, soft bottom. There are two passages into it ;
the northern one, about one-third of a mile wide, bearing East northerly from the north
end of Pulo Marra, and close to the mouth of Soongey Penang Bay ; to enter the har-
bour by this passage, a ship must keep to the northward into the mouth of that bay,
to avoid a 2 fathoms rocky shoal a little more than half a mile West from the north
bluff' point of Pulo Sabadda, which forms the south side of the entrance. This bluff"
point, the rocky shoal, and north point of Pulo Marra, are on the same transit line,
bearing nearly East and West of each other ; a ship must, therefore, keep to the north-
ward of that line in approaching the entrance of the harbour, which is safe after hav-
ing passed the shoal. The south entrance, about E. S. E. from the south end of Pulo
Marra, has in it two islands, and an islet farther out close to Pulo Sabadda, which
forms the north side, as Pulo Troosan does the opposite : the best passage is betwixt
the two islands in the entrance, that between the southernmost and Pulo Troosan is
also safe, with soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, and they are about one-sixth of a mile
wide; between the northernmost island and Pulo Sabadda there is no passage. Pulo
Troosan appears as a projecting part of the main, and is separated from it by a very
narrow ])assage, with 3 feet water in it. Pulo Saytau, in the middle of the harbour, is
nearly surrounded by shoal water and islets; the N.E. arm of the harbour, to the north-
102
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
ward of that island, is full of shoals, and should be avoided,
the main, and close to the shore, there is a watering place.
E. by N. from it, upon
From Pulo
Marra soutli-
ward,
to Pulo
Chenco.
Pulo Ayer-
Besar, and
neighbouring
islands.
Coral Shoals.
Several Bays.
Orange Island.
Islands and
shoals near the
coast
DEPARTING from PULO MARRA, it is proper to steer to the S. Eastward,
passing near the west point of Pulo Troosan, and from thence on either side of Pulo
Babee-kecheel, a small island about 2^ miles to the southward of Troosan. Having
passed near this island, to avoid the shoal in the offing, a south-easterly course may be
continued between Pulo Babee-besar and Pulo Ayer, in moderate depths, from 25 to
10 fathoms : from these islands, the Flagstaff of Pulo Chenco maybe seen upon a
round hill to the E. N. E., towards which, a ship intending to touch there ought to steer,
leaving the small islands Samanky and Cassee to the northward, and she may anchor
off Pulo Chenco in 12 fathoms. There is a harbour or cove inside the island, with
two passages leading to it; the proper one, on the south side of the island, has 9 and
10 fathoms water, and there are from 7 to 4, or 5 fathoms inside, in the harbour. This
is a place of considerable trade, and has a wharf for the convenience of lading and un-
lading goods. To the northward lies Chenco Bay, containing regular soundings, and
good anchorage at the N.W. part, close to Loompoor Village.
PULO AYER-BESAR, in lat. 1° 24' S., is the residence of a Malay Chief, and
has on it a conspicuous round hill ; on the south side of it is Pulo Ayer-kecheel, also
inhabited, and a rocky shoal projects from it nearly to the former island. The channel
inside these islands, and to the southward of Pulo Babee-besar and the two small
islands to the eastward, is 3 miles wide, and very safe. There is also a safe passage
contiguous to the main, inside of Pulo Babee-besar, Samanky, and Cassee, by keeping
nearest to the island, in from 7 to 10, or 12 fathoms. Pulo Babee Bay, to the north-
ward of the islands of that name, and on the east side of Pulo Troosan, has regular
soundings, and is sheltered from north-west and west winds. At Pulo Babee-besar
wood and water, poultry and sheep may be procured.
About a league South from Pulo Marra, and about the same distance E. N. E. from
Pulo Niamo, or Muskito, a small isle in the offing, there is a rocky bank, with 17 and
20 fathoms on it, and 40 fathoms a little way outside ; but the only known danger near
the passage between Pulo Marra and Pulo Ayer-besar is a coral shoal, with 2 fathoms
on it, and from 27 to 33 fathoms around. From this shoal the west point of Pulo
Troosan bears N. 2'^ E., Pulo Babee-kecheel N. E. by N. ^ N. about 4 miles, which
is the nearest island to it, the south point of Pulo Babee-besar N. E. by E. ^ E., and
the top of the hill on Pulo Ayer-besar E. by S. From this island S. 3° W., distant
4 or 5 miles, lies a small dangerous shoal, over which the sea is seen to roll when
there is much swell.
To the eastward of the island last mentioned there are the two bays of Battuwang
and Teloo Cassee, on the main, both containing good anchorage in moderate depths, but
open to westerly winds. About 2 leagues farther to the S. E. is situated Batang
Capay Bay, having also good ground for anchoring, but open to S. Westerly M'inds.
Nearly West from this bay .3^ leagues, and 2^ leagues to the S. S.W. of Pulo Ayer
bcsar, lies Pulo Panneu, or Orange Island, which is small, with 40 and 43 fathoms
close to it on the outside. Captain Kirton places a shoal 2 miles E. by N. from it,
the existence of which seems doubtful.
The other islands from thence to Ayer Raja, that front the coast at 2 to 5 leagues'
distance, are Pulo Tellore, in about lat. 1° 38' S., distant 2|^ leagues to the S. E. of
Orange Island, and about the same distance from Tellore Bluff Point, on the opposite
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 103
shore; to the northward of which lie some rocks near the main, dry at low water ;
and about a league N. by W. from Pulo Tellore there is said to be a shoal ; from that
island breakers also project a quarter of a mile. Pulo Ayer is about 5 miles to the S. W.
of Pulo Tellore ; to the N.W. of it, about a league, there is said to be a shoal, and
another about 1^ miles to the southward. Sandy Islaud bears S. E. by E., about
7 miles from Pulo Ayer, and Tree Island bears about S. S.W., 2^ leagues from Sandy
Island, having a reef of breakers to the N. Westward of it about a leao-ue.
PULO BRINGEN, the southernmost of this chain of islands, in about lat. 1°58''S., puIo Bringen
is 4 leagues from the main, and 3 or 4 miles E. by S. ^ S. from Tree Island ; there is ""'^^'"'"'^•
a 2^ fathoms shoal about 1| miles to the N. N.W. of it, and S. by E. from it about
5 miles there are 3 fathoms on another rocky shoal. From one of the reefs of breakers,
Pulo Bringen is said to bear S. S. E. f E., and Tree Island S. f E. When in 24
fathoms about 2 leagues offshore, with the Volcano Mount E. ^ N., and Pulo Brinoen
South, a sand in one with breakers bore N.W. f W., other breakers S.W. f W., and a
reef on which breakers were visible at times, W. |^ N.
There is also a reef under water to the E. N. E. of Tree Island, rendering the passage
between it and Pulo Bringen unsafe.
Opposite to those dangers in the offing, there is a reef within 2 or 3 miles of the
coast, on which the sea breaks in bad weather ; it bears from Pulo Bringen N. 04° E.,
distant 16 miles, and is on with Tellore Bluff Point, bearing N. N.W. f VV. About
4 miles to the westward of it there are 15 and 16 fathoms water, and 24 fathoms near
the dangers in the offing.
Departing from Pulo Chenco, or having passed through between it and Pulo Ayer- From Puio
besar, if a ship is bound to Ayer Raja, it will be prudent, in coasting along, to keep Ayer74°.
4 or 5 miles off shore, in soundings from 20 to 25 fathoms, to avoid the dangers near
it ; care will also be requisite, to give a proper berth, in passing, to the shoals and
islands in the offing described above ; more particularly in the night, for in the day,
with a good look-out, most of the dangers will be visible, and a ship may then borrow
occasionally to 15 or 16 fathoms. When Pulo Bringen bears about W. S.W., she may
haul to the eastward for the anchorage of Ayer Raja, which is not much frequented,
being considered unsafe with N.W. and westerly winds.
AYER RAJA is not easily known, the village being about 2 miles up the river, Ayer iiaja.
but a flag is sometimes hoisted near the entrance. It may be known by a remarkable
round hill covered with trees near the sea, about 4 miles to the northward of the river's
mouth, called by some Volcano Mount: when at anchor in 5^ fathoms soft clay, with
the Flagstaff at the mouth of the river bearing E. by N. northerly, near 2 miles, this
mount will bear E. N. E. f N., and Pulo Bringen W. | N. It is prudent not to
anchor under 8 fathoms, with the Flagstaff East, Pulo Bringen W. | N., and Indra- Anchorage.
pour Point S. f W., off shore about 2^ miles. If north-westers are apprehended, a ship
may anchor out in 12 or 13 fathoms, in order to clear Indrapour Point, should she
be unable to ride.
It is dangerous to enter the river with a boat at low water, particularly when there
is much swell, for the surf is then high on the bar.
INDRAPOUR POINT, in lat. 2° 5' S.,* Ion. 100° 55' E., by Captain William i„drapour
* Caijtain Ashmove, in 1827, made it in lat. 2° 9' 59" S., Ion. 100" 50' 17" E., measured from Batavia by chro- ^°'"''
nonieters, allowing the latter in Ion, 106' 51'' 45' E.
104
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Owen's observations, or 1° 28' West of Rat Island by chronometers, and i^ leagues to
the southward of Aj'er Raja, is low, and its extremity covered with trees ; as foul
ground projects out a little way, it sliould not be approached too close. From this
point tlie coast stretches to N. Eastward, and forms an extensive open bay between it
and Ayer Raja, with Indrapour River at the bottom of it, a little to the southward of
the latter place. From hence to Fort Marlborough there are no islands near the coast,
Pulo Bringen being the southernmost of the chain or long range, which maybe said to
commence at Passage Island, near Sinkel.
Leaving Ayer Raja, or the channel betwixt it and Pulo Bringen, a ship should haul
out of the bay, and pass Indrapour Point at 3 or 4 miles' distance ; if the wind be steady,
and bound to Bencoolen, a direct course may be steered along the coast, keeping from
2, to 4 or 5 leagues off; but with light winds it will be proper to preserve moderate
depths, from 15 to 25 fathoms, for anchoring if requisite ; never exceeding 30 fathoms,
nor borrowing under 10 fathoms towards the shore, in case of getting into rocky ground.
Moco Moco. MOCO MOCO, in about lat. 2° 34' S., distant 11 or 12 leagues to the S. Eastward
of Indrapour Point, situated at the bottom of a small bay, is a place of some trade; the
two points that form the bay are covered with tall trees, and about 4 or 5 leagues to
the N. Westward, a remarkable gap in the trees may be discerned in coming from that
direction. Having passed Indrapour Point, about 4 miles' distance, a ship bound to
Moco Moco should coast along about the same distance until near it ; the houses and
Anchorage. Flagstaff will then be discerned, and she may anchor in 10 fathoms soft ground, with
the latter bearing E. by N., and a remarkable peak inland N. E. ^ N., offshore 2| or
3 miles. Small vessels may, if requisite, anchor in 6, 7, or 8 fathoms. The country
boats must be employed in landing, for a ship's boat cannot, without great danger, on
account of the surf. Near to Moco Moco River is situated that of Mandoota, the
A shoal. mouth of which may be seen in coming from the southward. About 3 or 4 leagues
W. N.W. from Moco Moco there is a bank of rocks and sand, having on it from
18 to 1 1 fathoms in most parts : but by some navigators it is thought to be dangerous,
the sea breaking on it in blowing weather, and said to have only 2^ or 3 fathoms water
an the shoalest part ; consequently, it should be approached with caution.
Ayer Dicket. AYER DICKET, about 3 or 4 leagues to the southward of Moco Moco, and a little
southward from a bluff point clothed with trees, may be known by a clump of tall trees,
growing thicker on each side the mouth of the river than anywhere else. There being
a dangerous bar, the I'iver is unnavigable, even for boats. A ship may anchor off it, in
8 or 10 fathoms.
A ship bound from the southward to Moco Moco may round the bluff point to the
northward of Ayer Dicket in 8 or 9 fathoms, when the southei'ly monsoon prevails,
and haul gradually into the bay, to prevent being driven to leeward. Between that point
and Moco Moco a shoal bank projects several miles from the shore, said to have only
4 and 5 fathoms rocky bottom on it in some places ; and the coast is lined with a sandy
beach, towards which a great swell generally rolls, and this is the case on most parts
of it, particularly to the south of the equator.
Bantaii River. BANTALL RIVER, situated in a bay about 4|- leagues to the S. Eastward of
Ayer Dicket, may be known by two white cliffs a little to the northward of it, appear-
ing from the offing like boats' sails : in coming from the northward towards it, a ship
may coast along in 10 to 15 fathoms, taking care not to borrow on the shore
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 105
where the bottom is found rocky. The best anchorage in the road is in 8 or Anchorage.
9 fathoms ooze and sandy bottom, with the white cliffs N. N. E., and the river's
mouth N. E.
Between Bantall and Ipoe are three rivers, Triamang, Ayer Etam, and Ayer Ruttah ; other RWers.
Triamang, the northernmost, may be known by a small red cliff forming the low jjoint
on the north side the entrance : the coast, embracing those rivers, may be approached
to 12 or 14 fathoms, regular soundings in most places.
IPOE, or AYPOUR, about G| leagues to the S. E. of Bantall, where there is ipoe, or
another river in the bottom of a bay, may be known by three red cliffs to the south- t^e''°o"ast''a'dja-
ward, and three green hills near the sea ; with the central one of these bearing N. E. cent.
by E., large ships should not anchor under 9 or 10 fathoms, where the road is tolerably
clear ; further in, the bottom is foul and the water shoal.
From the shore to the southward of Ipoe, a bank of foul ground projects nearly a bank and
2 leagues to seaward, having on it from 6 to 10 fathoms, coral and coarse sand ; and rock.^"^""^
on its outer edge there is a coral rock, on which the Swallowfield struck, bearing S.W.
by S. 2 leagues from Ipoe, covered with only 14 feet water, and having from 8 to 16
fathoms all round. It should not be approached under 10 or 12 fathoms, as it is very
steep, there being a little way outside of it, 30, 40, and 50 fathoms, then no ground.
When Ipoe bears N. E. by E., a ship is clear to the northward of the bank and rock,
and may then haul nearer to the land if coming from the southward, but when abreast
of this danger, she ought to keep about 3 leagues off shore.
CAYTOJNE, in about lat. 3° 29' S., distant about 6 leagues to the S. Eastward of caytone,
Ipoe, has a white cliff to the southward like a castle, and breakers to the northward
nearly a mile from the shore. Rocky ground with irregular soundings project about
2 leagues out from this place, and from hence northerly towards Ipoe : a siiip ought,
therefore, to keep well out in sailing between them, for about 4 leagues off tiiis part of
the coast, where no soundings are got, the water will shoal suddenly if she stand
towards the shore. Nearly mid-way between Ipoe and Caytone there is a small place,
called Sablat, appearing like an opening betwixt reddish cliffs ; and Caytone has a
similar appearance.
From Caytone the distance is 8 or 9 leagues S. Eastward to Fort Marlborough, and FrumCaytone
the coast in this space is safe to approach occasionally to 11 or 12 fathoms, the sound- borough,
ings being more regular than farther to the northward ; from 12 to 20 fathoms are good
depths to preserve in sailing along.
LA YE, a small place about 2 leagues to the southward of Caytone, has regular Layeanci
soundings off it; when in 9 fathoms with the Sugar Loaf bearing E. by N., Laye ^'"^^^^''
House, situated in a small bay, bears N. E. ^ N. Policy, another small place, lies 1^
or 2 leagues more to the southward, having some red cliffs between it and the former
place.
Songy Lamo Point, about 2 leagues southward from PoUey, and near 5 miles to the Rock off songy
northward of Fort Marlborough, ought not to be approached under 10 fathoms, for a
rock with only 2 or 2^ fathoms on it, and 7 fathoms close to, is distant about U miles
from the point, bearing from it and the Sugar Loaf, when in the same transit line with
each other, S. VV. by W., and from the flagstaff on the steeple about N.W. by W.
BENCOOLEN RIVER, which falls into the bay, about li miles to the N. East- Bencooien
VOL. II. P ^''"'-
106
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
ward of Oojong Carrang, the point on whicli Fort Marlborough is built, has from 4
to 6 feet on the bar, and from 8 to 12 feet inside. The English at first formed their
settlement here, but they considered it unhealthy, and removed to the south point of
the bay, where Fort Marlborough was built on ground a little more elevated than the
former, and is now a Dutch possession, according to a treaty with the Netherlands
Government.
Fort Mari-
boroiigli.
The Road.
Anchorage
under Rat
Island.
Inner Road.
Caution in
passing tlie
North and
South breakers.
FORT MARLBOROUGH is in lat. 3° 48' S., Ion. 102° 19^' E.,* by mean of seve-
ral chronometric admeasurements from Batavia by Captain Ashraore : but Captain
William Rees made it 22° 7' E. from Point de Galle, by four chronometers, their great-
est diflerence 4 miles, after a speedy passage from thence, which would place it in Ion.
102° 27' E. By the same chronometers, he made 4° 25' E. from Fort Marlborough to
Batavia, which would also place it in Ion. 102° 27' E., allowing Batavia to be in 106°
52' E. Oojong Carrang, the point on which the fort and town are built, has a level
appearance and is moderately elevated ; but the land in the country to the North-east-
ward is high and hilly; one of the hills, called the Sugar Loaf, has a conical form, and
is a most conspicuous mark for avoiding the shoals.
The common anchorage in the road is about mid-way betwixt Rat Island and tlie
town, in 11 or 12 fathoms; under 11 fathoms the bottom is mostly rocky, and also,
farther out, it is foul in some parts. The York anchored in 10^ fathoms with the
dagstaft^ E. by N. ^ N., Poolo Point S.S.E., and the Sugar Loaf N.E. i N., distant
about 3 miles from the fort, and had her cable cut through by the rocks. She after-
wards anchored in 12 fathoms clear ground, with the flagstaff E. N. E., Poolo Point
about S.E. by S., and Rat Island S.W. by S. In the Atlas, we lay 20 days in April and
May, in 11 fathoms clear ground. Rat Island S.W., Sugar Loaf N.E., the flagstaff
E.N.E. I N., Black Rock breakers S. E., and Poolo Point S. S. E. | E. A ship ought
not to go under 1 1 fathoms, and if to remain in the road a few days, it may be prudent to
examine the bottom by sounding around in the boat within the range of the cable, for
ships do not moor, unless it be with a hawser and small anchor to steady them.
Close to the entrance of Rat Island Basin, and fronting it to the distance of a mile
to the N. E., the bottom is mostly soft, where ships, in the southerly monsoon, may
anchor in 13^ or 14 fathoms under the reef that surrounds it. When the N.W. winds
prevail strong from September to March, a heavy sea frequently rolls into the I'oad,
making ships labour greatly at their anchors.
Captain Huddart advises ships that do not go into Poolo Bay, or Rat Island Basin,
in this season, to anchor to the eastward within a mile of the island, in about 15
fathoms, where the sea will be partly broken by the reef. The same business may be
done from this station in favourable weather as if a ship were in the road, for sailing
boats, passing to and from Fort Marlborough, are confined to one trip in 24 hours by
the land and sea breezes ; besides, the N.W. winds only are to be dreaded, and if a
ship part her cables, she may rtm for Poolo Bay with little or no canvas spread.
There is an inner road, with 4 and 4J fathoms water, a little to the northward of the
fort, and inside the North and South breakers, which is sometimes frequented by
small vessels in the fair season, for the convenience of loading and unloading. But if
unacquainted, it is imprudent for boats or vessels of any kind to venture inside with-
* In 1822, the difference of longitude, measured from Madras by mean of two chronometers, made Fort
Marlborough in Ion. 102° 16' E. : therefore, Captain Rees' longitude is probably too far east. By mean of
northern and southern stars, and the sun, observed in 1822, tlie turret of the fort was found to be in lat.
3° 47' 38" S.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 107
out a guide, for several boats have been lost upon the North or South breakers, which
are not always visible when the sea is smooth ; lor then a high surge is only at times
seen to roll over the rocks, which would prove fatal to any boat that unfortunately got
into it.
To pass from the road in a boat through the channel between the north and south
breakers, steer from Rat Island towards the Sugar Loaf, keeping this rather on the star-
board bow until the steeple appear on the West, or sea-face, of the nearest bastion ; or
until a very conspicuous tree appears behind the south end of the N.W. or sea-curtain
of the fort ; the boat will then in either case be inside, or past the breakers, and may
haul in close to the shore reef, keeping along the edge of it until within the fort, and
opposite to the landing wharf.
With a northerly wind, it is best to pass to the northward and eastward of the north
breaker, by keeping 2 miles to the N. Westward of the fort until the conspicuous tree is
brought behind theN.E. end of the N.W., ov sea-curtain ; or bring the steeple behind
the N.W. face of west bastion, and you will avoid the north breaker by passing to the
N. Eastward of it.
With a southerly wind, when coming from the road, it is best to steer for the town,
and pass to the southward of the south breaker, and close along the edge of the sliore
reef, from its outer extremity to the landing-place.
Close to the north and south breakers there are 7 and 8 fathoms on the outside, and
6 fathoms inside of them. Nearly abreast the fort, a little outside the landing-place,
there is a shoal-patch in 3^ fathoms, at a small distance from tlie edge of the shore reef,
which is avoided by keeping close to the latter ; or that patch may be passed on the
north side, by keeping a low white house near the beach and the bushy tree nearly in
aline with each other, when steering in for the landing-place. This is protected from
the sea by a rocky ledge fronting it at the distance of 150 yards ; boats pass round the
eastern point of this ledge, and then haul in to the southward for the wharf.
Bullocks, poultry, fruits, and vegetables of various kinds, may be got here, and the supplies.
country around has a pleasant appearance. Variation of the compass, 1° 31' East in
1782. "
RAT ISLAND, in lat. 3° 51' S., bearing S. W. by W. from Fort Marlborough, Rat island.
distant about 6 miles, is surrounded by an extensive coral reef, partly dry at low water ;
which projects li miles to the N.W. of the island, and to the southward of it about
three-quarters of a mile. The island is low and small, having on it a few palmira
trees, and some godowns, or houses for receiving pepper, with a small battery of guns
for its protection. To the northward of the island, there is an excellent gut or basin The basin.
in the N. E. side of the reef, with depths of 5, G, and 7 fathoms in it, and 3 or 2|
fathoms at its upper end. Ships requiring repair, or having a cargo to receive or
deliver at Fort Marlborough, generally go into this basin, where they moor head and
stern to anchors laid upon the bank on each side, or nearly in a N.W. and S. E. line,
directly across the basin.
The passage into the basin is close to the edge of the reef on the west side of the
entrance, for several detached rocky patches bound the east side, with 7 and 8 fathoms
water close to them.
The bottom in the basin is soft mud and sand, and the coral bank on each side being
a soft perpendicular wall, no injury is sustained if, during the strong N.W. gales, a ship
part her mooring junk or cable and is driven against the S. E. side. Ships proceeding
to the basin jjenerallv anchor at the entrance, and warp into it ; from this place, goods
p 2
108
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
Poolo Boy.
Directions.
Anchorage.
Directions on
the loss of
anchors.
Titles.
Bay unhealthy.
Unsafe to run
for in the night.
may be conveyed to or from Fort Marlborough, with the same facility as from the road,
the boats being- able to make a trip daily with the land and sea breezes. Here a ship
is completely sheltered from the sea by the reef; whereas, it oftens runs so high in the
road, that goods are unsafe in the boats alongside, and they are frequently forced to
run for shelter into Poolo Bay, the North-westers sometimes giving very short warn-
ing of their approach.
POOLO BAY, about .3 leagues to the southward of Fort Marlborough, is an
excellent harbour, secured from the sea by a neck of land on the north and west sides,
which is usually called Poolo Point ; that part fronting the sea is called the west
point ; and the eastern extremity, the east jjoint ; the latter is low and sandy, and
forms the north side of the bay. When ships at anchor in the road are unable to ride
during strong N. Westers, they slip their cables if it is day-light, and run for Poolo
Bay. In doing so, they should steer South and S. I)y E., taking care not to come
under 12 fathoms until past the Black Rock, and False Black Rock, as they may not
be always discernible in blowing weather, when the sea breaks much in the channel.
They lie about half-way between the road and Poolo Point, or 4 miles from the latter,
and if the low sandy point of the bay is not brought to the southward of S. E., they
will be avoided. When clear of the Black Rocks, a ship should haul to the eastward for
Sillebar on the east side the bay, and the depth will decrease gradually to 8 fathoms
as the low sandy point that forms the opposite side is approached ; this at low water
may be rounded very close, and when it is high water, at the distance of a cable's
length ; she must then haul up under the south side of it, and anchor in 7 fathoms with
the extremity bearing about North, distant from the company's pepper godown a little
more than a quarter of a mile. Near the shore, the south side of the bay is shoal and
rocky, and it would be imprudent to run too far into the western angle of it, where there
is a 4 feet rocky shoal, the only one in the bay. .fl
If a ship happen to lose all her anchors, she ought to haul close round the point,
and when well inside of it, she may run on shore in the mud without fear, opposite
the nearest tree, having previously prepared the boat with a hawser to make fast to it.
Sillebar River's entrance, to the N.W. of the bay, has 4 feet water on the bar ; from
whence it stretches both northward and southward, near, and parallel to the shore, the
southern branch leading to a great lake contiguous to the sea, to the S. Eastward of
Poolo Bay. The tide rises from 3j to 5 feet in the springs, high water about hours
on full and change of moon. The bay, being surrounded with low swampy ground, is >
considered to be very unhealthy, and the water also of a pernicious quality ;* it is,
therefore, little frequented by ships.
Ships driven from their anchorage in the night cannot run for Poolo Bay without ;
the risk of getting on the outer low sandy point, for it will not be visible, nor do the
soundings answer as a proper guide, there being 8 and 8|^ fathoms very close to it, and
nearly the same depths in a direct line from it to the N. N. Westward ; it therefore ,
seems advisable, if a ship cannot ride during the night, to run out to sea, betwixt Rat I
Island and the Asia Shoal.
* The Royal Bishop moored in Rat Islatid Basin, in 1784, having her mizen-mast sprung ; sent the long
boat with an officer and 19 men to Poolo Bay, for the mast of the Myrtle transport, that ship having been con-
demned there, on her passage from Bengal to England. They had provisions and 3 butts of good water, and
were cautioned not to drink the water of Poolo Bay ; notwithstanding, many of them whilst on shore drank of
it, rather than take the trouble of going to the boat, which proved of fatal consequence to many of them ; for the |
oflRcer was confined to liis bed during the passage home, and the boatswain, one quarter-master, and 8 men, died '
during that passage. Poolo Bay is thought to be most unhealthy during the southerly monsoon. j
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
109
THE DANGERS contiguous to this place, exclusive of the rock off Songy Lamo
Point, and the north and south breakei's off Fort Marlborough Point, already men-
tioned, are the following.
Middle Shoal, with 4f fathoms rocks on it, situated nearly mid-way between the
south breaker and Black Rock, is on with the Sugar Loaf bearing about N. E. ^ N. ;
close to it on the outside there are 9 and 10 fathoms, and 8^ fathoms inside.
Carrang Lampooyang, or Black Rock, about H miles to the S. E. of the former, and
nearly South from Marlborough 3^ or 4 miles, is generally discernible by the sea break-
ing on it; inside of it the depths are 8 and 9 fathoms, and the same outside in a small
channel betwixt it and the False Black Rock, which lies about half a mile West from
the other, with 3| fathoms water on it. This danger is on with the Sugar Loaf bear-
ing N. E. by N., and in one with the flagstaff on the steeple bearing from INorth to
N. ^ E. These shoals are avoided on the outside by keeping in above 11 fathoms;
and by keeping in about 8 fathoms, or rather less, a small vessel may occasionally pass
inside of them.
Carrang Byang Byang and Carrang Ikan Tandoo are two rocky shoals together,
with 5 and 6 fathoms water on them, bearing from Rat Island between West and
W. N.W., distant 2 or 2^ miles ; betwixt them and the reef surrounding the island
there is a passage nearly a mile wide, with 10 and 17 fathoms water. To avoid these
shoals, Rat Island, when it bears from East to E. S. E., should not be approached
nearer than 3 miles; and as the Sugar Loaf bears from them N. E. ^ E., it should be
kept to the eastward of that bearing, in coming from seaward, until Rat Island bears
S. E. In working to or from the road by the northern channel, which is spacious and
safe, a ship may stand near the edge of Rat Island Reef on the southward tack, and
to 10 fathoms towards Songy Lamo Rock and the main.
There are two small shoals, called Carrang Ikan Chaby, with 4^ and 5 fathoms rocks
on them, distant about a mile E. N. E. from Rat Island, having a narrow channel with 10
and 12 fathoms betwixt them and Rat Island Reef; a vessel, to pass through it, must
keep within less than 150 fathoms of the Island Reef, or a full mile off Rat Island
Reef, to pass outside of these shoals.
Middle Slioai.
Black Rock,
and False
Black Rock.
Carrang Byang
Bj'ang, and
other shoals.
CARRANG LEBAR, or ASIA SHOAL, extends East and West 1| miles, and
is about a mile in breadth ; although 4 fathoms is the least water that has been found
on it, the bottom being coral and sand, there is a heavy ground swell on it, which
sometimes breaks in bad weather ; it ought therefore to be carefully avoided, more par-
ticularly as it lies much in the way of ships approaching the road from the southward,
and there may probably be less water on some spots than 4 fathoms. From Rat
Island, the east end of the shoal bears S. S.E., and the west or outer part S. by E.,
distant 5 miles ; and from the west point of Poolo Bay, the nearest part of the shoal
bears about W. by S. ^ S., distant 3 miles. The Sugar Loaf bears from the east end
of it N. N. E. easterly, and from the west end N. E. by N. northerly.
To approach the road or Rat Island by the outside channel, between the island and
shoal, a ship ought not to bring the island to the westward of N. ^ W. until within
3 miles of it; then she may haul in for it and the road, or directly to the eastward, for
Poolo Bay, if bound there. The depths between the shoal and Rat Island are from
22 to 17 fathoms, and in the other channel, betwixt it and the main, generally 17 and
18 fathoms. Coming from the southward through this channel, a ship must keep
■within 2 miles of the west point of Poolo Bay until it bears East, and may then steer
for the island : the point may be approached within half or three-quarters of a mile
Carrang Lebar,
or Asia Shoal.
To sail through
the channels on
either side of it.
1 10 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
occasionally in working, but a reef projects from it about a third of a mile, with
3 fathoms on its outer edge, and 13 or 14 fathoms close to.
To avoid the Asia Shoal fully on the west side, when going in or out by that channel,
the island may, in passing the shoal, be kept bearing North. The approach to this
shoal may be known by the overfalls towards the outer edges of it, if the lead is kept
FROM MARLBOROUGH TO FLAT POINT.
Buffalo Point, BUFFALO POINT, in about lat. 3° 58' S., a round bluff headland covered with
Fiat'po"nf '" trees, discernible from the Road of Fort Marlborough, is about 2^ miles to the south-
ward of the west point of Poolo Bay, and they are frequently considered as one and
the same. From Buffalo Point the coast of Sumatra extends S. E. about 58 leagues
to the west part of Flat Point, which is the south point of this large island, and forms
the north side of the entrance of Sunda Strait. The whole of this extent of coast is
generally bold and safe to approach, and the land mountainous a little in the country ;
soundings extend from the shore about Fort Marlborough and Poolo Bay, to the dis-
tance of 4 or 5 leagues, and from thence to Manna, regular soundings over a sandy
bottom are found, where a ship may occasionally anchor in moderate depths, if it fall
calm and the current be unfavourable: but farther to the southward the coast be-
comes more steep, soundings extending out only a short distance, until Little Fortune
Island, near Flat Point, is approached, where they are got nearly 2 leagues from
the main.
Manna Point. MANNA POINT, in lat. 4° 33' S., bearing nearly S. E. from Buffalo Point, dis-
tant 17 leagues, may be known by a small hill with palmira trees on it, and by its
being the next headland to Buffalo Point that projects considerably into the sea.
Betwixt them there are several small places ; Moreallam, about 4 or 5 leagues from
Buffalo Point; Saloomale, about 2 leagues farther; Pring, in lat. 4° 21' S., distant
11 leagues from Buffalo Point ; Alass, 2 leagues more to the S. E. ; and Penoo, near
Manna. The coast in this space maybe approached to 15 or 20 fathoms, and in some
parts to 11 or 12 fathoms; but from 18 to 35 fathoms, are good depths to preserve in
sailing along.
About 4 miles to the S. Eastward of Buffalo Point there is a narrow spit, with
7 fathoms rocks on it, 15 fathoms close to on the outside, and 12 fathoms soft ground
between it and the shore, from which it is distant about 2 miles. The spit extends
parallel to the shore about a quarter of a mile, opposite a low point of land, and the
least water found on it has been 7 fathoms.
Anciiorage at At Priug, the Company's ships used sometimes to anchor to receive pepper ; the
^""^ best anchorage is in 12 fathoms, muddy bottom ; for farther in the ground is foul and
rocky on the edge of a shoal, projecting about 2 or 3 miles offshore. With the Resi-
dent's house bearing N. E. by E. ^ E., distant about 3 miles, the Kent shoaled at
once from 9 to 7 fathoms, and anchored during a strong gale, where she had the best
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. Ill
bower cable cut to pieces in one night : about three-quarters of a mile from the ship,
the boat had 7 fathoms, very rocky, and farther in, found the water shoal suddenly,
the sea breaking there when blowing fresh.
Manna Town is near the point of that name ; the Company's ships used to touch. Manna Town.
to take in pepper from thence and Penoo, and usually anchored in 10 or 12 fathoms.
The Europa, at anchor, taking in pepper at Penoo, had the house at Penoo bearing
N. ^ E., and Manna E. by N. A small cascade falls perpendicularly from the steep
cliffs which line the shore near Manna, to which the Elgin, East India ship, dis-
patched a boat for water; but the boat was lost, and the crew perished in the tre-
mendous surf that generally prevails along this coast.
Manna Point may be rounded in 14 fathoms, but not nearer, as a reef is said to
project from it about a mile ; to the southward of the point there are 12 and 14 fathoms
about 1^ miles from it ; but no ground 50 fathoms at the distance of 2^ or 3 miles,
for the coast to the S. Eastward becomes more steep. About 5 leagues S. E. from
Manna there is a place called Pethang, or Padang.
CAWOOR, in lat. 4° 56' S., distant about 11 or 12 leagues to the S. E. of Manna, cawoor.and
is situated near the south part of a concavity in the land about 5 miles in length, coasf^"™"*^
where, in the small bay of Cawoor, ships are sheltered from southerly winds ; and in
Sambat Bay, which forms the north part of the concavity, there is good shelter from
N.W. and westerly winds in 9 or 10 fathoms, sand and muddy bottom. From Sambat
River on the east side, to Secooniet, or Bandar Point, that forms the western extre-
mity, this bay is about 2^ miles wide, having the village Bandar at the N.W. side,
where is a small river, and level country.
From the anchorage in the bay, Mount Poogong may be seen over the other land
bearing E. S. E.
The anchorage at Cawoor is in 11 or 12 fathoms, with the Resident's house bearing
about E. N. E., distant 1 mile, the south point of the bay S. by E. or S. f E., 1^ miles,
and the western extreme of the land W. IN. W., about 3^ miles.
The passage for boats going to the factory is betwixt two coral banks, and very
narrow, with breakers on eacFi side; about 100 yards to the westward of the factory
there is a small black rock on the western bank, which must be kept very near on the
larboard hand. Steering out from the anchorage to the westward, the depth increases
regularly, but rather suddenly, from 14 fathoms in the road to 42 fathoms, sand and
shells, a little way outside the bay. About half a mile from the shore, outside the
south point, there are 40 fathoms water, and 20 fathoms close to the breakers.
PULO PISANG, in lat. 5° 8' S., Ion. 104° 6^' E., by Captain William Owen's Puio i'i.an?.
observations, bears from the south point of Cawoor Bay about S. E. by E., distant
8 leagues ; the coast between them is steep, there being no soundings except very close
in. Point Poogong, about 3 leagues from Pulo Pisang, projects a little into the sea;
and Mount Poogong, in lat. 5° 4'* S., is a high remarkable mountain near the sea,
which bears nearly North from the same island, and may be discerned a great way
from the offing. Pulo Pisang is of round form, about a mile in diameter, consisting
chiefly of a bed of rock crystal, and on the east side, between it and the main, there
is good anchorage and shelter from N.W. and Westerly winds, in 12 or 15 fathoms. Anchoraee.
The Revenge moored in 16 fathoms with the island bearing from S.W. ^ S. to
* Captain Ashmore, in 1827, made it in lat. 5^ 0' S., and 2° 57' 38" West from Batavia.
112
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
W. N.W., Sillaloo Rock at Crooe S. E. ^ E., extremes of Sumatra from S. S. E. to
W. N. W. I N., and the rocks about 50 yards off the S. E. part of the island S.W. by
S. southerly, distant from the island three cables' lengths, and from the main three-
quarters of a mile.
Shoals. To the nortlivvard of the island, about half-way between it and the main, there is a
reef of rocks, on which the sea generally breaks, having 12 and 16 fathoms on the
south side, 20 fathoms on the west side, 12 fathoms foul ground to the northward ;
and about North or N. by W. from the reef there is a patch of coral rock, with 2
fathoms on it, seeming to preclude any safe passage for large ships betwixt the reef and
Sumatra shore. Between the N.W. end of the island and reef, the depths are from 10
to 18 fathoms; but to the eastward of the latter the water is shoal, with foul ground,
generally from 4 or 4^ to 3 fathoms on the visible patches of coral rock. This shoal
water and foul ground extends from the north part of the island in a JN, N. Easterly
direction towards the main, so that it would be imprudent for a ship drawing much
water to endeavour to pass between the island and the Sumatra shore ; but a small
ship, by keeping about two cables' lengths from the island, may come in from the
northward, or pass out that way. Wood and water may be got on the main to the
N. E. of the island, and the soundings are regular in the road, from the east side of
the island close to the shore of Sumatra. A reef lines the outside of the island,
stretching to a small distance, from which the depth increases quickly in standing to
the southward, there being 3(3 and 40 fathoms about a quarter of a mile off.
Crooe and the
adjoining
coast.
Dangerous
Shoal.
good
CROOE, in lat. 5° 15' S., about 7 miles S. E. by E. from Pulo Pisang, is situated
at the bottom of the bay, on the bank of a small river, navigable by small boats at
high water, close to the northward of Sillaloo Rock. All round the bay, from abreast
of Pulo Pisang to Crooe, soundings of 35 fathoms are got about a quarter of a mile
from the shore, and they extend farther out from the latter place : but care is required,
if working into Crooe Road, to avoid a dangerous rocky shoal, discovered by Mr.
M'Kellar, of his Majesty's ship Belliqueux, which ship touched here, and procured
water, bullocks, buffaloes, and other refreshments.
This shoal bears about N. ^ W. from Sillaloo Rock 1^ miles, from a remarkable
tree near the shore, at the bottom of the bay it bears S.W., and is about half a mile
distant from the nearest shore, and from the anchorage of Crooe about N. by W.
three-quarters of a mile. There is l^ fathoms water upon this rocky shoal, 14 and 15
fathoms inside of it, and 18 or 20 fathoms to the southward, between it and the
anchorage of Crooe.
Sillaloo Rock appears like an island when seen at a distance
from it about 2 cables' lengths into 10 fathoms, from thence
fathoms about three-quarters of a mile off shore
monsoon, being well sheltered from these winds by
forms the south side of the bay, off which there are
lengths from the breakers, and 40 fathoms close to.
foul ground projects
sandy bottom to 54
The anchorage is safe in the S. E.
Carrang Pingan, the point that
about 2 cables'
no
soundings
Bencoonat. BENCOONAT, in lat. 5° 35' S., bearing about S. E. from Pulo Pisang, 8 or 9
leagues, is a small town or village, subject to Crooe, on the north side of a low point,
having on it |)almira trees : the bay here is interspersed with rocks, which stretch out
nearly a league from the point, but there is a passage for boats or very small vessels
close along the shore. Siggen Point, about 3 leagues to the N.W., forming the west-
ern extremity of the bay, has a reef projecting from it about a mile or more, with
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 113
20 fathoms close to ; and between Crooe Bay and that of Bencoonat, soundings
extend a little way from the land. The coast hereabout, and farther to the southward,
is generally low fronting the sea, but inland the country is mountainous. A ship in-
tending to touch at Bencoonat should anchor well out, to avoid the rocky ground.
LITTLE FORTUNE ISLAND, called by the natives PULO BATOA KET- LiuieFortm,.
C'HELL, in lat. o° 54' S., distant about 4 miles from the main, bears nearly S. E. ^''""''
by S. from Bencoonat 8 leagues; it is low and woody, and about a mile in diameter.
Along the coast between them, soundings are found 3 or 4 miles from the shore ; and
in the vicinity of the island the bank becomes more regular, and extends farther out,
having soundings on it from 2 to .3 leagues off the main. About 4 leagues to the
northward of Little Fortune Island, a low point of land forms the northern extreme of
a bay, where there is a village. When that point bears North-easterly, the Sugar Loaf
N. E. ^ E., and the island S. E. ^ S. 10 miles, there are 27 fathoms, sandy bottom,
about 3 miles off shore. This island is surrounded by a reef, but there is good
anchorage about a mile to the eastward of it in 8 or 9 fathoms, and a passage betwixt Anchorage.
it and the main, with various depths, from 5 or 6 to 12 and 13 fathoms.
There is also good anchorage in Billimbing Bay on the opposite shore, a Biiiimbing
little to the northward of the south end of Sumatra, where a ship may lie in 7 or 8 ^"^^
fathoms at the entrance of the bay, and small vessels may lie in 3 fathoms inside,
sheltered from all winds. The small river Billimbing is on the east side of the bay,
and there is fresh water at the S.W . side, inside the point that forms it, from which a
reef projects to the northward about a quarter of a mile. Captain W. Owen, at an-
chor in this bay, in H. M. S. Baracouta, observed in lat. 5° 54' S., Samanca Peak
E. by N. i N., Billimbing Point S. E. J S., outer breaker of its reef S.S.E. ^ E.,
Little Fortune Island W. i S.
The soundings are a guide in passing outside the island in the night, and from
thence round Flat Point, for they extend more than 2 leagues offshore; and the bank
is flat round the island. If coasting with the land wind and favourable weather, you
may borrow into 15 fathoms occasionally if the lead is kept going; in the Atlas, we
borrowed into 12 fathoms, when passing Fortune Island and the land about Flat
Point, during the night ; but that seems too near, particularly in a large ship.
The bank of soundings extends far south from Flat Point, otherwise there must be Bank of sound.
a detached bank at a great distance from it, on which soundings were obtained as '"^''
follows : —
The Bridgewater, February 7th, 1816, observed at noon in lat. 6° 15' S., the body
of Keysers Island bearing N. 24° E., Low, or Flat Point, N. 17° E., southern extreme
of Princes Island S. 47° E. ; sounded, and had ground 54 fathoms.
The Atlas, February 7th, 1810, with the island Crockatoa bearing E. by N. f N.,
and the low land about Flat Point on Sumatra N. by E. ; at noon, had soundings of
50 fathoms, having steered 2 miles S.W. by W. from being in 28 fathoms at 11 a.m.
About 5 leagues VV. S.W. from Flat Point there is a coral bank of 30 fathoms placed
in some Dutch charts.
FLAT POINT, in lat. G° 0' S., Ion. 104° 40' E., distant about 3 leagues to the Fiat Point.
S. Eastward of Little Fortune Island, is the S. Westernmost extremity of Sumatra,
bounding the entrance of Sunda Strait on the north side ; and the narrow neck of
land by which it is formed separates the deep inlet called Keysers Bay, on the east
side, from Billimbing Bay and Fortune Island on the opposite side. The south part
VOL. II. Q
114
SUMATRA, WEST COAST-
of this neck of land is low and woody, extending- 3 leagues nearly East and West, the
east end of it bounding the entrance of Keysers Bay, and called Tanjong Chinna, by
others called Flat Point ; but the west end of this low land is here considered as Flat
Point, and lies about 30 miles to the westward of Java Head. The ship Speke, in
1793, anchored on the east side of this low land in 17 fathoms, sand, about three-
quarters of a mile from the shore, where she filled up her water, and was sheltered
from North-westers.
Channels or
routes parallel
to tlie coast.
The passage
outside the
islands pre-
ferable.
Dancerous
shoals.
To approach
the coast from
seaward.
PASSAGES AND CHANNELS.
THE CHANNELS, or ROUTES, along the west coast of Sumatra, may be con-
sidered as three in number. That to the westward of all the islands in the open sea,
recommended as the best at all times, called the Outer Passage; the space
between the chain of large islands in the offing, and those smaller islands contiguous
to, and interspersed along the coast, which may be called the Middle Passage,
and which is generally from 4 to 10 leagues distant from the shore of Sumatra, and is
connected with the Inner Passage in some places ; and the Inner Passage, close
along the coast and betwixt some of the islands near it.
The Outer Passage, to the westward of all the islands, in the open sea, is the best of
the three; for there, S.W. and Southerly winds often prevail, when N.W. squalls and
variable baffling winds may be experienced close to the land.
The middle route should not be followed when bound to the northward, nor at any
time, if it can be avoided without inconvenience, for although it is wide, with few
dangers, and may be adopted by night or day, when the weather is clear and favour-
able, ships are liable to be drifted about by currents when the winds are faint and
baffling, there being no anchorage ; and in some parts towards the main, dangerous
coral shoals, from 1 to 2 and 3 fathoms under the surface, shoot up from deep water
at the edse of soundings.
The Inner Passage has been generally recommended to navigators, but it certainly
ought not ; probably no ship should adopt it, unless when trading at different places
on the coast, and it should seldom be chosen by ships bound to the northward in either
monsoon, but having in many places moderate depths for anchoring occasionally, it
is preferable in that respect to the Middle one ; on account, however, of the numerous
small islands, and many dangerous shoals, the true positions of which are not correctly
determined, it is, to persons unacquainted, an intricate and embarrassing passage.
Ships proceeding by it are generally obliged to anchor during the night.
It has been said, that all the shoals on this coast are lohile coral rocks, discernible
from the mast-head a mile off in the day-time, even when they are 3 fathoms under
water. On the contrary, many of the shoals consist of hlack rocks, not discernible
until close to them, although covered only with 8 or 10 feet water : and several ships
have grounded upon these shoals in the (lay-time, before they could be perceived. A
good look-out from the mast-head is nevertheless u,seful, particularly when tlie sun
shines, for many of the dangers will then be discernible before they are approached very
close.
Ships bound to parts of the coast situated betwixt Bencoolen and Tappanooly may,
in coming from sea, pass through some of the channels formed by the principal islands
in the offing, adopting a safe and convenient one, according to the season and prevailing
winds : an account of these channels will be found in one of the following sections,
where the islands are described. Ships bound to the northern part of the coast, any-
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 1 ] 5
where betwixt Tappanooly and Achen Head, should pass to the northward of Hog
Island, and make the land near to their port ; but when northerly winds prevail, they
ought to keep well to windward, and after making the land, coast along at a moderate
distance to the place to which they are bound.
The Arniston, bound to China by Malacca Strait, left Bencoolen, June 25th, 1802,
stood directly to the westward into the open sea, where she got brisk southerly winds,
which enabled her to pass Pulo Rondo, July 8th. Had she proceeded close along the
coast, her passage might have been greatly prolonged, as happened to the ships men-
tioned above.
In the King George we were from the 2(jth of July to the 11th of August, 1791, get-
ting from Pulo Rondo to the equator, when bound to Bombay by the Southern
Passage ; the winds in the open sea to the westward of the islands being then con-
stantly between S.W. and South.
MONSOONS.
THE WINDS on the west coast of Sumatra are denominated the South-East and Monsoons.
North-West Monsoons, agreeably to the direction in which the periodical winds are
found to blow in south latitude; but they are subject to great irregularities on this
coast, on account of the numerous islands in its vicinity ; and the two extremities
of the island being far distant on different sides of the equator, the same winds cannot
be expected at all times to prevail along the whole of the coast. Whilst the north part
of the coast enjoys fine weather from October to April, N.W. winds with rain and
squally weather prevail on the south part ; and in the opposite season, when the S.E.
monsoon is blowing on the south part of the coast, the N.W. monsoon prevails, with
squalls and rain, close to the coast in North latitude; but outside the islands, in the
open sea, the wind is then generally between South and S.W.
THE S.E. MONSOON, or dry season, generally begins in May and continues se. mon-
till October. In this season, when the southerly winds blow more steadily and with ^°°"'
greater force than usual, which is from June until late in Septembei', there are no land
breezes ; at other times, brisk sea breezes prevail from S.W. and southward in the day,
and variable breezes from the land or from the northward in the night. Ships coming
from the sea in this monsoon should, if bound to Bencoolen, or any other place well Toappioacii
to the southward of the equator, endeavour not to fall in with the coast to the north- fhat'^s°e*aso',"
ward of their port, for several days may be lost in reaching it when the southerly
winds prevail. The Herculean, bound to Bencoolen, fell in with thePoggy Islands, so
late as the 18th of September, 1803, and was seven days getting to her destination,
the winds being constantly from S. Eastward.
Although the S. E. or southerly monsoon prevails most on this coast to the south-
ward of the equator, Nortk-ivesters are liable to blow for a few days at times, particu- North-westers.
larly about the full or cliange of the moon.* These Nortii-westers are more common in
North latitude, with southerly currents and frequent calms, rendering the navigation
by the Inner Passage close along the coast very tedious and troublesome ; more parti-
cularly as ships are in many places obliged to anchor in the night on account of sur-
* The North- westers sottietimes blow strong between Bencoolen and the entrance of Sunda Strait in December
and January. The Rochester and King William were obliged to ride three days with top-masts struck, from
the 15th to the 18th of January, 1717, during a violent North-wester, about 14 leagues to the southward of
Bencoolen,
q2
116
SUMATRA, WEST COAST.
soimdins: dangers ; also in the day, by the prevalence of faint breezes, calms, and con-
trary currents.
The Royal George, bound to Malacca Strait and China, left Padang July 1st, 1803,
and proceeded along the coast by the Inner Passage ; she made very slow progress ;
N.W. winds and southerly currents made frequent anchoring so indispensible, that it
was the 12th before she reached the equator, and the 6th of August when she got to
Achen Head.
The frigate Bombay, and Lady Castlereagh in company, in 1804, were allJuly and
part of August getting from Bencoolen along the coast to the northward by the Inner
Passage; and the latter ship struck on one of the rocky shoals about 10 miles off
shore, in lat. 3° 4' N.
N.W. raon-
!>oon.
Land and sea
breezes.
Passage of the
Alfred.
Outside pas-
sage preferable.
Current.
THE N.W. MONSOON, on the west coast of Sumatra, particularly in South lati-
tude, prevails from October to April ; in some seasons N.W. winds begin early in Octo-
ber, but from this month to the middle of January they usually are strongest, attended
often by much thunder, lightning, and rain. In March the hard rains abate, and the
weather becomes more favourable. When the land and sea breezes prevail on this
coast, which may happen at times in either monsoon, the sea breeze sets in between
10 A.M. and noon, subsequent to a calm, and declines with the setting sun. The
land breeze begins early in the night, and continues until 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning,
subject to many irregularities. To the southward of the equator, unsettled land winds,
squally weather and rain, prevail greatly in the night during the N.W. monsoon ; with
sea breezes at N.W., W.N.W., or West, in the day, veering to W. S.W. and S.W.
about the middle of March, or early in April.
In most parts of India to the northward of the equator the N. E. monsoon prevails
when the sun is in the southern hemisphere, but on the west coast of Sumatra it is
changed to a N.W. monsoon by the direction of the land. From December to April
the weather is often settled and fine in North latitude, with land and sea breezes; at
other times, particularly in the springs. North-westers prevail, which blow stronger
than any other winds upon this coast. They generally produce a considerable sea,
rendering it hazardous to ride at anchor in any of the open roads on the coast ; and
it is very difficult to work to the northward whilst they continue.
The Alfred, bound to Prince of Wales Island and China, left Bencoolen, October
22nd, 1807 ; having a southerly wind at the time. Captain Welsted steered to the
northward, intending to pass out into the open sea between the north end of Se Beroo
and Pulo Mintao. The wind shifted to N. Westward, with frequent hard squalls,
much rain, intervening calms, and southerly currents ; with this unfavourable weather,
very little progress was made to the northward, and many of the people being dis-
abled from duty by the heavy rains, they were obliged on the 29th, after seven days'
loss of time, to bear away, and pass out, round the southern limits of the islands, oppo-
site Bencoolen.
It seems advi.sable at all times for large ships, bound from Bencoolen to Malacca
Strait, to steer to the westward far outside of all the islands, where, in both monsoons,
they will certainly get much quicker to the northward by keeping in the open sea
than by following any of the routes inside the islands.
CURRENTS.
THE CURRENT on the west coast of Sumatra is influenced greatly by the winds,
and seldom runs to the northward, in either monsoon, except when the wind is blow-
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. 117
ing strong from southward, which will happen at times, particularly in South latitude.
When JNorth-westers prevail, the current runs with the wind to the S. Eastward, and
it generally sets in this direction along the coast in both monsoons, particularly in
North latitude. To the northward of the equator, when the current is setting to the
southward betwixt the coast and the islands, it is frequently at the same time running
to the northward, in the open sea, far outside of them. In October, November, and
December, it is often tedious getting to the northward, particularly from the equator
to Achen Head, for baffling N. W. winds and southerly currents are often found to
extend a great way out from the coast in these months, particularly in the channels
among the large islands in the offing, the current sets to the South and S. Westward ;
but in June and July, between Analaboo and Achen Head, the current has been
found to set to the N. Westward from 20 to 30 miles per day.
To the southward of the equator, when at times the southerly winds blow with con-
siderable strength from June to October, a drain of current is impelled to the north-
ward, at which times it is rather tedious and difficult to work to the southward along
the coast.
The rise of tide on most parts of the coast does not exceed 2 or 3 feet in the springs ; Tides.
and in places not far distant from the equator it is high water about (J hours at full
and change, or when the moon is in the horizon. There is generally a considerable
surf on most parts of the coast, which is highest in the southerly monsoon, during
the spring tides.
CHAIN OF ISLANDS FRONTING THE WEST COAST
OF SUMATRA.
THE Bx4LE OF COTTON ROCK, long dreaded by navigators, having been Bale of cotton
searched for by several of the Company's surveying vessels without success, its non- ^^°'^^-
existence seems now certain. The locality formerly assigned to it was lat. 5° 23' N.,
Ion. 87° 54' E.
THE COCOS, in lat. 3° & N., about Ion. 95° 30' E.,* bearing N.VV., distant about cocos islands.
6 leagues from the N.W. end of Hog Island, are two small, low islands, covered with
trees, separated from each other by a channel H or 2 miles wide, probably not safe,
as breakers project a little way from the islands, with islets or rocks close to the
northernmost.
The channel between the north end of Hog Island and the Cocos should be ap- chamei be-
proached with great caution in a large ship, as a shoal bank is described in the journal ^]^,^7io"^"'
of the ship Jane to extend about 4 leagues in a S. S. E. direction from the largest isiumi unsafe.
* The longitude of these isles and Hog Island is not correctly ascertained, the observations of navigators
differing greatly in their geographical position. Captain Endicott places the Cocos (the northern island) in
lat. 3° r N., about 25 miles W. ^ N. from the N.W. point of Hog Island, which position he gives after
" repeated observations in passing them many times."
118 SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
Coco Island, on which, steering to the N. E., she shoaled suddenly to 7 and 6^
fathoms. At sun-set June 13th, 1812, Cocos Islands bore N. f W., and the N.W.
point of Hog Island East, when rocks were observed under the bottom, had G|
fathoms, hard sand, then 6^ fithoras : wore, and stood to the southward, increasing
the depth regularly from 6^ to 8, 10, 12, 14, 20, and to 28 fathoms, sand and small
black stones.
The following extract from the Greyhound packet's journal also shews that the
above-mentioned channel is dangerous, unless a ship borrow towards Hog Island.
February 24th, 1783, at 1 p.m., saw breakers bearing E. S. E. ^ S., and, to appear-
ance, broken or shoal water from these breakers to the Cocos, which then bore N. E.
by N., and the north end of Hog Island East. Approached within 1^ miles of the
lireakers, which are dangerous, and if a ship stand in to the eastward between Hog
Island and the Cocos, she ought never to bring the southernmost Coco to the north-
ward of N. E. unless her distance from it is above 4 leagues.
Although ripplings, occasioned by currents or tides among these islands, sometimes
resemble breakers, and are liable to deceive navigators ; yet it appears by the above
description, taken from the journals of these two ships, that the channel between the
north end of Hog Island and the Cocos should not be used until better explored.
Hog Island. HOG ISLAND, the northernmost of the large islands fronting the west coast of
Sumatra, distant from it 17 or 18 leagues, extends nearly N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.
about 16 leagues, the north point in lat. 2° 50' N., about Ion. 95° 40' E.,* the south
end in lat. 2° 21' N., and is about 3 to 4 leagues broad, high, hilly, covered with
trees, and may be seen 9 or 10 leagues ; several islets lie near the shore on both sides,
and 3 or 4 leagues from the south point, in lat. 2° 10' N., lie the two Flat Islands,
betwixt which and the south end of Hog Island there is a good passsage, about 3^ or
4 leagues wide, having no soundings at 70 fathoms, within 2 miles of the northern-
most Flat Island, but the ship Baring found 26 fathoms in mid-channel. The water
in general is deep near these islands, but with the north part of the northern island
bearing W. 4 S., H or 2 miles' distance. Captain Endicott, in the ship Suffolk, in
1823, passed over part of a coral shoal ; " the rocks," he says, " were plainly seen
under the ship's bottom," but the hurry of tacking prevented him from sounding till
about, when there were 11 to 15 fathoms; but it was his opinion that there could not
have been more than 4 or 5 fathoms, and farther towards the islands the water appears
still more shoal.
On both sides of Hog Island there are sudden overfalls on several coral patches
that lie 1 or 2 leagues off shore. On one of these, which bears about South from the
S. W. point, there are very irregular soundings, from 30 and 20 to 7 fathoms, or pro-
bably less, water : about 2^ miles outside one of the islets that fronts the east end of
the island there is a 2 fathoms coral shoal, with 90 fathoms, no ground, close to it.
As there is no inducement for a ship to stop at this island, nor any safe anchorage
about it known to navigators, they seldom or never land there, although it is probable
there may be a harbour within some of the islets that line its eastern side. About
4 or 5 miles to the westward of the north point of the island, and 2 miles from two
islets off that part, lies a coral shoal, with 4 or 5 fathoms, or perhaps less, water.
* His Majesty's ship Pandora made the N. W. point in lat. 2' 50' N., Ion. 95° 32' E., and two small low-
isles near it in lat. 2^ 56' N., Ion. 95° 27' E. Captain Heywood's observations made the north-west end of
Hog Island in Ion. 95° 32' E.; but these observations probably place it too far to the westward. By Captain
Endicott's chart, the north point of Hog Island is in lat. 2° 58' N.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 119
Captain Lamb, in the Baring, experienced strong N.W. winds and southerly cur-
rents late in December, 1815, which prevented him from gaining ground to the north-
ward, on the west side of Hog Island ; but after passing round its southern extremity
he got the wind favourable for proceeding to the northward, and found no southerly
current in coasting along the eastern side of the island.
PULO BANTAK, or BANIA,* distant 10 or U leagues E. S. Eastward from the Puio Baniak
south end of Hog Island, consist of two principal islands a little separated, one lying ?"ets!''^^'^™'
to the JN. Eastward of the other, with several small ones contiguous to them. From
the S. E. side of the easternmost, or large island, a chain of islets and some shoals
project considerably ; but by keeping near the Baniaks, there is a safe channel between
them and Passage Island, which is the easternmost of the chain, already mentioned in
the section where Passage Island is described. At the north end of Baniak there is
a bay, in lat. 2° 18' N., with coral shoals and a group of islands fronting it; there is a
passage into it betwixt the two westernmost islands, and shelter inside, witlj 16 to 9
fathoms water ; a ship may also anchor outside these islands, but the soundings are
very irregular, and the bottom generally coral. The north end of Baniak and the
adjoining islands that form this bay bear nearly East from the two Flat Islands off
the south end of Hog Island, and there is a channel between them 8 leagues broad.
On the northernmost Baniak island there is a peaked hill like a sugar-loaf. The
southern extremity of the S. Westernmost island is in lat. 2° 0' N., and East from this
extreme there is a passage betwixt the first and second islands that lie off the S. E.
end of the N. Easternmost large island, with irregular soundings in it, corally bottom ;
and third island, which is round and high, of the same appearance as the second,
lies to the southward of it 5 or 6 miles, and there are various depths in a safe passage
betwixt them, generally from 36 to 28 and 19 fathoms, by keeping nearly in mid-
channel. Ships coming from the N. Westward, if bound direct to Tappanooly with a
fair wind, may steer for these islands, and pass to the southward of them, or between
the two southernmost, then proceed to the eastward for Bird Island, leaving it on the
starboard hand ; having cleared the latter, and the shoal to the N.W. of it, a direct
course may be steered for the north entrance of Tappanooly Bay. Some persons
adopt the channel to the northward of Pulo Baniak, and from thence steer East, to go
between Passage Island and the coast, as the channel between Pulo Baniak and Hog-
Island, and that between the former and the north end of Pulo Nyas, are equally safe :
but the channel to the South of Pulo Nyas is considered the best when bound to Tap-
panooly, for whicii brief directions are given in the description of the bay of this name.
PULO NYAS, the largest of the islands off the west coast of Sumatra, extends Puio Nysis.
nearly in a S. E. direction, from about lat. 1° 36' N., Ion. 96° 55' E., to about lat.
0° 38' N., Ion. 97° 59' E., and is 6 or 7 leagues in breadth. The northern extreme
bears south from Pulo Baniak, about 9 or 10 leagues, and about 3 leagues to the
N. N. E. of this extremity lies the small island Pulo Baby, with a 40 fathoms bank
close to it on tiie south side, and a safe channel between it and tlie north end of Pulo
Nyas. Many other small islands line the shores of the principal one, at different Description.
places, some of which, particularly on the west side, stretch out about 3 leagues, also
a shoal at the same distance from the N.W. part of tlie island. Although the coast is
steep in some places, there is anchorage inside the group of small islands on the S.W.
* Pulo Bania, i. e. many islands
120 SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
side, at the entrance of Seirombo River ; also at a harbour close to the south point
there is good anchorage in an excellent bay, where bullocks, buffaloes, goats, and
poultry are plentiful, and water easily procured. The natives are not considered to
1)6 of so treacherous a character as tiie generality of Malays. There is anchorage
inside the islands and shoals at the east point of the principal island, at the mouth of
Nyas River : there are also other places where a ship might anchor occasionally, on
the N. E. side, and betwixt the east and south points of the island. There is a fine
river about S.S. E. from Pulo Baby, where a ship may anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms,
about north from the river. In general the land is high, well clothed with trees,
and partly cultivated by the natives for rice; this island was formerly well inhabited :
the people are of small stature, and fairer than those of the adjacent coast, the women,
more particularly, liave always been in great demand at Batavia, and other Dutch
settlements ; therefore from 500 to 600 of the natives have been annually purchased
here, and carried away in small vessels.
The Dragon brig, from Bengal, bound to New South Wales, touched at Seirombo
for refreshments, in June, 1819, and Captain Murat, who was in that vessel, has com-
municated the following information relative to this place.
Ciijrtaiii Mu- At anchor in 9^ fathoms mud, with the mouth of the river bearing N. E. ^ E.,
ofseiromi'ia north-west poiut of the bay N.W. ^ VV., and isle in the middle of the bay, called Pulo
Ache by the natives, E. by N. i ]\. H miles, two pyramidal islands, one E. by S.A S.,
and the other S. E. by £. ^ E., the group of islands in the offing from S. byW. ^ W.,
to \V. I S. As a heavy surf then rolled over Seirombo Bar, the Rajah of the islands
in the offing came on board, when we weighed, made sail, and afterwards anchored in
17 fathoms mud and sand, with Silorongang village, S. ^ E. 1 mile, extremes of ditto
island from S.W. by W. ^ W. to S. S. E. ^ E., Noko Village, a famous place for hogs,
N.fW. 2 miles, extremes of Noko Island N. by E. i E. to N.W. by W. i W., Pulo
Ache N. E. ^ N. 5 miles, a small isle, the easternmost of the group, in one with the
north-west point of Seirombo Bay N. N. E. f E.
, Silorongang village lies in a small bay faced with coral rocks, which renders the
inside of them smooth for proas. When proceeding to the landing in a small boat,
steer in shore from the northward, and pass between the coral rocks and the shore ;
but in a cutter or launch, steer for the breakers on the south side the bay, betwixt
which and the reef to the northward, steer for the south end of the village, with a man
at the bow of the boat to direct her, for many patches of coral rock lie under the sur-
I'lesh water, facc of the watcr. To the southward of the village, fresh water is got from a small
stream in the same bay.
The group of islands fronting Seirombo Bay shelters it from the sea; but as some
sand banks lie on the western side of the islands, it may be prudent to pass on the
eastern side of them in coming from the northward, then sail into the bay. In ap-
proaching from the southward, the bay may be entered without difficulty, as the south
channel is safe, between the south extreme of the group and Pulo Ache ; but two
shoals, which break at times, lie nearer to Pulo Ache than to the other side of the
passage, which require caution in coming from the southward. To the northward of
the N.W. point of Seirombo Bay lies a large shoal, for which a good look-out is
requisite in coming from the northward, and 10 fathoms is a good track to round the
point.
On the west side of Pulo Nyas, in lat. 1° 9' N.,* is a group of four or five low islands,
* The charts shew no islands in this lat. ; it is probable, therefore, that the group called Pulo Bunga, in lat.
1° 14' N., is intended.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 121
which have reefs extending- a long way to the S. Westward of them, and it is probable
there may be no safe passage inside of these.
The east coast has moderate depths, with good anchorage, and some fine rivers ;
especially one in lat. 0° 51' N., where trade is carried on in proas : many isles line the
coast here, as on the w estern side ; but the sea being more smooth on the eastern coast,
this part of Piilo Nyas is certainly the safest. According to Captain Pearce of the Position of
Frankland, who sailed along this coast in 1840, the island of Samsama lies in lat. s^"^'""*-
0°53' N., which is farther South than the position assigned to this island in the
charts.
Captain Thornhill, in the David Scott, at 1 p. m., May 19th, 1825, sounded on a Bankofsound-
bank, not previously known, stretching out from Pulo Nyas, on which he had 18 '"^^'
fathoms sand and shells, with Pulo Nyas bearing from North to N.W, ^ W., distant
from the nearest shore 10 or 12 miles: steering to the eastward with light nortlierly
breezes, had the same soundings till 3 p. m., when the depth increased suddenly to
35 fathoms no ground.
Pulo Nyas bearing from E. N. £. to E. by S., 8 or 9 leagues' estimated distance, at
10 A.M., 31st October, 1812, Captain Bean, of the ship Lady Barlow, saw breakers
from the poop, bearing E. N. E., distant only 2 miles. Steered S. S. E. 5 miles
till noon, when the observed lat. was 0° 37' N., Ion. 96° 32' E., by a good chrono-
meter.
If this was a real danger, seen by Captain Bean, it lies much farther from Pulo Nyas
than the situation hitherto assigned to any of the reefs fronting the west side of that
island. Jt seems probable that the supposed danger here stated might be the effect
of strong currents or tides, producing ripplings like breakers, but it will be proper to
keep a good look-out in this situation.
CLAPPS ISLAND, called Clappers Island by the Dutch, lying on the equator, ciapps island.
in about Ion. 98° 7' E., distant 10 or 11 leagues S. by E. from the south end of Pulo
Nyas, and 7 or 8 leagues West from the N.W. end of Pulo Mintao, is low, covered
with trees, and has some gaps in it, which give it the appearance of several small isles,
when first seen above the horizon. On the 6th and 7th March, 1783, the Greyhound
packet was near it, and describes a very dangerous ridge of breakers to extend along
the island to the distance of 3 or 4 miles. Captain Forrest also saw it in the night,
and called it a low ffat island. The brig Olive Branch got near to it, September 26th,
1808, and states it to be a low island, with gaps in it : the wind then blowing very hard
at N.W., she lost her main-mast, and was forced to bear away through the channel
between Mintao and Se Beeroo, to refit at Padang. In February and March, the cur-
rent sets strong out to the S.W. in the vicinity of these islands.
PULO MINTAO, so named by the Portuguese, formerly called NANTIANbythe Mintao.
English, but the native name of which is said to be BATOA*, is the next large island
to the south-eastward of Pulo Nyas, extending from lat. 0° 1' S., Ion. 98° 10' E., in a
southerly direction, to lat. 0° 41' S., being about 14 leagues in length, and 5 or 6 in
breadtii. This, like the other large islands, is moderately elevated and hilly, covered
with trees, and many small islands line its shores both on the east and west sides, with
moderate depths among them, and some of them form safe bays or harbours, little
known to Europeans. The N. E. point of the island is a bluff', with a reef projecting
* Europeans generally apply this name to the island inside, between it and the coast of Sumatra.
VOL. II. R
122 SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS,
a quarter of a mile from it, and a few miles to the southward, on the east side, is formed
a bay, called Lams Bay by the Dutch, in about lat. 0° 5' S., where the Greyhound
packet lay several days in March, 1783, and procured a few poultry, pigs, and coco-
nuts, at a dear rate, from some natives who came from the north part of the island ;
the water got in a creek on the Mintao shore was brackish.
The Greyhound, moored in 16 fathoms sand and shells, nearly in mid-channel be-
tween Mintao and the island that forms the east side of the bay, and had the extremes
of Mintao bearing from N. 35° W. to S. 28° E. ; the island forming the east side of the
bay, off the N. E. end of which projects a long reef, dry at low water, from S. 3G° E. to
S. 80° E. ; two other islands off the nearest shore half a mile, from JN . 5° E. to N. 67° E.
The mouth of an inlet also bore S. 64° W., which was found to be an arm of the sea,
separating a low island, about 3 miles round, from Mintao ; and the other mouth
of the inlet is nearly opposite the south point of the island on the east side of the bay,
distant from each other half a mile.
After leaving this bay, the Greyhound, in steering for the N. E. point of Mintao,
found the deepest water by keeping fiom the Mintao shore, toward the small island
on the east side of the channel, having never less than 9 fathoms, except one cast of
7 fathoms ; and this is said to be the only channel into Lams Bay, there being no pas-
sage in to the southward.
The north part of the island does not extend above 11 or 12 miles East and West,
forming- a bay between the bluff point and another point about 3 miles West of it,
which is foul on the east side nearly 2 cables' lengths from the shore, but the reef on
the west side can be approached close. Two ships may be sheltered in this bay from
southerly winds, but it is open to the northerly monsoon ; and the Greyhound could
not find any fresh water here, although this is the best place for refreshments, being
inhabited, which is not the case at Lams Bay. The Greyhound anchored in 18 fothoms,
sand, off the bluff point U miles, Mintao from S. E. | S. to W. by S. ^ S., the outer
small isle W. by N. ^ N., Pulo Penir from E. f N., to N. E. ^ N.
She weighed from hence March 26th, 1783, steered to the eastward for the bluff
N.E. point of the island, and rounded the reef in 7 fathoms, at noon, within half a
mile of the point observed lat. 0° TN. At 3 p.m. anchored in 10 fathoms, good
ground, about a quarter of a mile to the southward of the first small island inshore, to
the SOI, Lhward of the point, and about 3 miles nearer to it than when in Lams Bay,
extremes of Mintao from N. 32° W. to S. 31° E., Pulo Penir from N. 66° E. to the
north end, shut in with a small island N. 20° E., the watering creek's mouth S. 19° W.,
distant half a mile. Here she moored, unbent sails, and lay upwards of a month,
v/ood and caulking the upperworks, &c., procured plenty of firewood and waLer in the creek,
which is probably scarce in the dry season, as the boat was obliged to go 3 miles up
the creek on spring tides to fill the water, which was then indifferent; and few supplies
were obtained from the natives, although thechief of the island visited the ship, so that
she was obliged to go to Natal for supplies.
Padang boats are said to go annually to Mintao for dammer and oil.
The west coast of the island extends about North and South nearly 40 miles, fronted
by a chain of about 18 or 20 isles, of various sizes, some of them several miles distant
from the main island, dangerous to approach, being lined with reefs and high breakers,
and no soundings near them. About a league from the south point of the main island,
there is a small sloping island, situated in about lat. 0° 45' S., said to have soundings
of 30 or 40 fathoms between it and the point, with reefs to the S. E. and southward,
between it and the N.W. end of Se Beroo.
water.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 123
PULO BATOA, called also Penir or Pingey, but Cassanie is said to be the name PuIo Batoa.
given to it by the natives, about 6 or 7 leagues to the north-eastward of the north end
of Mintao, nearly mid-way between it and Natal, is of considerable extent, stretching
nearly East and West, having some islets and shoals ofiT its S. E. end, which have been
already mentioned in the description of the coast of Sumatra, and a chain of islands
and shoals extend from it over toward Mintao. The south end of Batao bears E. by N.
from the N. E. point of Mintao.
A ship coming from the westward, and bound to Natal, may proceed through the
great channel formed between the south end of Pulo Nyas and these islands, leaving
Mintao and Batoa to the southward. This channel is safe with a good look-out, but
the prudent navigator will be cautious when near any of the islands during the night,
as they are not yet sufficiently explored.
SE BEEROO, or NORTH PORA, called Great Fortune by the Dutch, extends se Beeroo.
nearly N. W. and S. E. about 23 leagues, the north point being in lat. 0° 56' S., Ion.
98" 38' E., by lunar observations, and bears nearly S. E. from the south end of Pulo
Mintao, distant about 8 or 9 leagues, which is the breadth of SE BEEROO CHAN- channel be-
NEL, formed between these islands, but directly in the middle of it there is an ex- Mhnao. ^"
tensive reef of breakers, which is in one with the small island oft" the south end of Pulo
Mintao bearing N.W. and N.W. by N. This reef is very extensive, for the brig Olive
Branch, in passing to the southward of it September 27th, 1808, saw breakers extend
towards Mintao as far as they could be discerned from the mast-head, and the southern
part of them seemed to be about mid-channel between Mintao and Se Beeroo. When
the breakers bore E. by N. ^ N., distant about 1 mile, she had no ground 70 fathoms;
but after passing the reef, and bringing it to bear to the westward, she got on a rocky
bank with overfalls from 15 to 20 fathoms, when the south part of Mintao bore N.W.
by W. about 5 leagues, and the extremes of Se Beeroo from S. ^ W., to E.S.E. ; steer-
ing from thence eastward, at a moderate distance from Se Beeroo, the depths increased
to 25 and 30 fathoms, and shortly afterwards to no ground. The proper channel, from
the reef to the north end of Se Beeroo, is about 4 leagues broad, having soundings
from 15 to 26 fathoms in it, by keeping within 3 or 4 miles of Se Beeroo: a little to
the westward of a direct line drawn from the west end of the reef to the N.W. part of
that island, there are no soundings, nor any to the eastward of the north point of the
island, at the distance of 3 miles from the shore. The N.W. point of Se Beeroo is
in lat. 1° 0' S., and 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of its north point, forming the en-
trance of the channel on the south side. Although little frequented, this appears to
be a good channel, convenient for ships bound from the westward to Padang, being
opposite to that place. W hen N.W. winds prevail, a ship steering for it ought to keep Directions.
well to the northward, and make the south end of Pulo Mintao, then steer S. East-
ward for the N.W. part of Se Beeroo, to give a berth to the reef between them ; after-
wards, she may keep within 3 or 4 miles of the northern side of the latter island, in
steering to the eastward through the channel ; a stranger, however, ought not to
run through it in the night, unless in a case of necessity. This channel is now
better known than formerly ; the ship Elizabeth, Captain AYells, went through it
February 3rd, 1755, and Captain G. Hayter, then second mate of that ship, made a
plan of it. Captain Bennet has gone through it several times ; Captain Owen also
made a plan of this channel, in his passage through it in January, 1812, in his
Majesty's ship Cornelia. The ship Hermes, of Calcutta, Captain Hall, was unfor-
tunately wrecked on the reef south of Mintao, that bounds the north side of the chan-
R 2
124
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
Channel close
to the S.W.
part of Se Bee-
roo.
S.W. point of
Se Beeroo.
nel, a few years ago, by not keepinj^ over towards the north end of Se Beeroo. The
Cornelia got soundings of 27 fathoms, about 5 miles VV. by N. from the N.VV. point of
Se Beeroo, and by keeping within 4 miles of the north coast of this island, she carried
regnlar soundings of 20 and 19 fathoms through the channel, and the breakers on the
mid-channel shoal were only seen from the mast-head.
Se Beeroo is generally high land, covered with wood, higher in the middle than
towards the extremities, with a sandy beach in many parts, and a great surf breaking
often upon the shore. On the N. E. side some small islands are said to lie a little
way oft"; others are situated near the S.W. side and south point: betwixt these and
the principal island there is a channel, with regular soundings from 16 to 20 fathoms,
according to the description of the snow Jenny, which vessel, in January, 17(39, went
through it, between the small islands and Se Beeroo ; and to pass through it, her
directions are nearly as follows : —
A ship intending to proceed for the Sumatra Coast, by the channel between Mintao
and Se JBeeroo, and having been forced to leeward of it by N.W. winds, may occa-
sionally pass through the strait to the southward of the latter. Steer in for the west
side of Se Beeroo, with the highest part of the land bearing about E. N. E., but not
more to the northward until in 17 or 18 fathoms, white clay, which soundings will
continue by keeping about mid-channel between it and the small islands that front its
south-west end. Having run along until the third island, counting from the north-
westward, is brought to bear about West, the north point of the strait will be seen to
the eastward. A boat may be kept a-head in steering to the eastward, and the point
on the south side of the strait will soon be discerned, known by two tall trees about
half a cable's length from the other trees, standing on the extremity of the point among
the rocks. The passage is clear until abreast this point, but in steering from it to the
eastward, a good look-out from the mast-head is requisite, with a boat a-head sound-
ing, for in this part of the passage there are many rocks on both sides, projecting from
the islands that lie contiguous to the passage. The easternmost island, near Se Pora,
may be approached close in passing, to avoid great overfalls and shoal soundings on
the north side the strait, and a reef of breakers projecting from the south-easternmost
island offSe Beeroo. When this reef is brought to bear N.W. by W., the depth will
be 45 fathoms, and farther eastward, no ground.
On the S.W. side of Se Beeroo there are white cliffs a little to the northwai-d of the
north- westernmost island that forms the channel, and this island has breakers and foul
ground stretching from it to the ]\.W. and westward.
The S.W. point of Se Beeroo is in lat. 1° 47' S., Ion. 99° 2' E., by Captain Torin's
observations, agreeing nearly with others taken in the Walpole ; and the southern
extremity is about 3 leagues more to the eastward, and a little farther South.
Seaflower
Channel.
SEAFLOWER CHANNEL, situated between the islands Se Beeroo and Se Pora,
is a discovery made by Captain W. Owen, who passed through it in H. M. Brig
Seaflower, November 10th, 1806, during the night. Being in lat. 2° 18' S., Ion.
99° b' E., at noon, with the appearance of a clear passage open to the north-eastward,
between the islands Se Beeroo and Se Pora, he steered for it N. E. by E., and after-
wards N. E. in passing through the channel, which he entered in the evening, and got
clear of it about 10 p.m. This channel is bounded on the west side by an islet that
lies near the S. E. point of Se Beeroo, and on the east side by the N.W. end of Se
Pora, and an islet near the north end of the latter. These islets bear about E. ^ N.
and W, 1^ S. of each other, distant 12 or 13 miles, and when about half-way between
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 125
them in mid-channel at 8|^ p.m., the Seaflower's place was lat. 2° 0' S., Ion. 99° 33' E.,
or ]° 20^' W. from Indrapour Point, by chronometer. The islet off Se Beeroo, that
forms the west side of the channel, appeared to be in lat. 2° 1' S., deduced from noon Position
observation, and 1°26'\V. from Indrapour Point. Captain Owen describes this chan-
nel to be 8 miles wide, clear of danger, and they got no soundings at 30 fathoms in
passing through.
The Seaflower went through this channel again in 1808, steering about N. by E.
^ E., until clear of it to the eastward, and several ships have passed through it since
that time.
These observations of Captain Owen make the south end of Se Beeroo about 1 1 or
12 miles to the southward of Captain Torin's observations.
The Seaflower Channel, described above, certainly cannot be that through which
the Jenny passed, as the latter was found to be intricate and winding, not above a
mile wide in some parts, with soundings of 16, 20, and 25 fathoms ; whereas the Sea-
flower Channel is 8 miles wide, and apparently clear of danger. The Jenny, there-
fore, must have passed close to the S.W. and south end of Se Beeroo, within the
islands which front this part of it, and form the N.W. and west sides of Seaflower
Channel ; otherwise, there must be a gut or strait through Se Beeroo, in about lat.
1° 45' S., through which this vessel went, if her description be correct.
SE PORA, or SOUTH PORA, extends from about lat. 2° C S. in a direction se Pora.
nearly S. E. to Point Marlborough, in lat. 2° 25' S., Ion. 99° 58' E., which is the
south point of the island, it being about 12 leagues in length, and nearly half that
breadth at the north part, decreasing gradually to the southern extremity. It is
mostly covered with wood, and rather less elevated than Se Beeroo ; both these islands
are distant about 17 leagues from the coast of Sumatra. A little eastward of the
N.W. point of Se Pora, and directly South of the small islands which front the shore,
is Hdrlock Bay, with soft ground in it, and moderate depths for anchorage; Huriock Bay.
and there is a narrow channel leading from it to an inner bay or harbour, farther in-
land to the S.W. The outer bay being open to N. E. winds, the inner one must be
preferred ; and in passing through the narrow channel, the starboard shore should be
approached more closely than the opposite side, which is rocky. This harbour is
sheltered from all winds inside the point on the starboard side, where there is a red
sandy beach, and anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, or in 5 or 6 fathoms, close to the
shore ; the depths in the narrow passage going in are from 4 to 6 or 7 fathoms.
Captain Whiteway, who discovered this bay, makes the north coast of Se Pora extend
East and E. S. Eastward from it about 3^ leagues to Cape Tilleroo, the north-east
extreme of the island, with a small island, called Pulo Se Gere, adjoining to the
coast, from which to the entrance of Huriock Bay, a reef projects a great way out from
the shore.
The east coast of Se Pora extends from Cape Tilleroo S.S. E. about 10 leagues to
Point Marlborough, and in this space, there are two considerable bays ; Se Ooban Bay,
about 3 leagues to the southward of Cape Tilleroo, and Se Labba Bay, 7 or 8 miles
more to the southward.
Se Ooban Bay may be known by a large tuft of trees on the starboard side going in ; seOoban Bay.
the course into it is S.W., and a ship should keep in raid-channel, in from 24 to 30
fathoms, to avoid the i-ocks projecting from the points on each side the entrance.
There is a brook of fresh water at the N.W. part of the bay, but the best anchorage is
in the South part, with the point on the south side the entrance bearing about N . E.,
Supplies.
126 SUMATRA, WEST COAST.— ISLANDS.
in moderate depths from 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms. When at anchor it will be proper to
examine tlie l)ottoin by sounding in the boat, for in some parts there are patches of
coral rocli.
se Labia Bay. Se Labba Bay is known by a round peaked hill close to its south side, called
Turk's Cap, in lat. 2° 17' S., which is seen from both sides of the island. In enterinj^
this bay the course is about S. VV., and the depths 45 and 40 fathoms, decreasing to 14
or 12 fathoms inside. Rocks project from both points, but farthest from that on the
south side the entrance, which must have a good berth in passing. I'here is a coral
shoal nearly in the middle of tlie bay, even with the water's edge, to the southward of
wiiicli the bottom is muddy, and proper for anchorage. At either of these bays a
shi[) may be supplied witli wood, water, a few hogs, yams, some poultry, and coco-
nuts, from the people of the i'ew straggling villages on this side the island ; but the
w t st side is said to be destitute of inhabitants.
Between Cape Tilleroo and Point Marlborough, the east coast of Se Pora is gene-
rally steep, but rocks project a considerable way from the shore in some places, parti-
cularly to the southward of the Turk's Cap ; and from abreast of it, soundings extend
along the coast towards Point Marlborough.
The west coast is also rocky, with some small islands adjoining, and the sea breaks
high upon the shore : two of these islands, about 4 leagues to the westward of Point
Marlborough, lie close to the shore, and near each other ; they are low and flat, covered
witli coco-nut trees, and rocky to seaward.
The channel between the south end of Se Pora and North Poggy Island is about
3 leagues broad, and safe ; there are soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms on a coral bank
that stretches across betwixt the islands, when the Turk's Cap and Point Marl-
borough are in one, bearing about ]\.\V. by N. ; and a little farther to the eastward,
there is no ground. Point Marlborough is bluft', and moderately elevated, fronted by
adjoining rocks.
North Popgy NORTH POGGY, or NORTH NASSAU ISLAND, is about 7 leagues long
and adjoining f^.^^^ p^ p^^y ^^ §_§_ j^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ j^.jf ^^^^^ breadth ; the north point, caUed Cape
Cuddalore, being in lat. 2° 32' S., and bearing S. E. from Point Marlborough on Se
Pora, distant about 10 miles; the south point, in lat. 2° 52' S., forms the west side of
Se Cockup, which separates the North and South Poggy Islands from each other.
They are both high, covered with wood, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues.
On the west coastof North Poggy there is a group of islands, with passages and anchor-
age between the northernmost of tliem, called Pulo Laubo Laubo ; but the best channel
to the anchorage is round the north end of this island, from which projects a reef; and
on the east side, betwixt the island and the Poggy shore, is the road, where a ship may
anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, sheltered from all winds excepting those that blow from
northward. Se Laubo Laubo village is situated on the side of a rivulet at the S. E.
side of the bay, where water may be procured.
Battoo iVJongo, another village, lies near the S.VV. point of the island, which is low
Se Cockup land, and from thence to the south entrance of the Strait of Se Cockup, the coast
stretches nearly East about 3 leagues, and is rocky with high breakers upon the shore.
This strait is of semicircular form, containing very small islands at the southern part,
and one at the other end, which opens to the eastward ; and although safe, it is not a
mile wide in some places. The passage to enter from the southward is between the
islands oft' its mouth, one called Pulo Serasso, contiguous to North Poggy, and two
called Pulo Supaw, near South Poggy, by keeping in mid-channel ; and on the west
strait
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 12?
side of the other islands inside, where the depths are from 10 to 15 fathoms. On both
sides of the N.W. point of South Poggy, which projects out into the middle of the
strait, there are small bays or coves, with soft bottom and regular soundings, where a
ship may occasionally anchor out of the tide ; for it runs 3 knots, at times, in the middle
of the passage.
Captain J. C. Ross anchored in this strait in 182.3, and cut a new foremast for his
ship, the Borneo, near the shore of the North Poggy Island, of an excellent species of Timber tor
timber. The tree is called katooka by the natives, and although the size required was "'^^''^'
68 feet, the chief difficulty was to find a tree small enough, those of an inferior size
near the shore having been cut down by the natives, to split into planks for the Pa-
dang and Bencoolen markets, where the timber of late years has come into repute.
The first tree cut down measured 97 feet below the branches, and 28 inches diameter
at the smallest part, and this being too large, Captain Ross was obliged to select a
smaller one; the mast formed of this tree was carefully examined in August, 1826,
whilst the Borneo was lying in the river Thames, and found to be perfectly sound.*
Se Cocup River is opposite the N.W. point of South Poggy, on the western shore,
where fresh water may be procured, and the village of that name is several miles up
the river; there is also fresh water under the high land at North Poggy S. E. point,
which forms the north side the entrance of the strait. This entrance is very narrow,
the small Island Tongo being mid-way between the points, and both these and the
islands having rocks projecting a little from them ; but there are 20 fathoms in the
middle of the narrow passage, betwixt the island and South Poggy Point. A little
outside the strait, about half a mile eastward from the point on the north side, there
is a reef of rocks even with the water's edge. Pulo Serasso at the south end of the
strait, is separated from North Poggy by a very narrow channel, with from f5 to 10
feet water in it, fronting which there is a small island, having a rock upon it resem-
bling a thatched house, when viewed from the S.W. The sea breaks with great
violence upon the rock, and upon the low rocky shore to the westward.
SOUTH POGGY, or SOUTH NASSAU ISLAND, extends from the north point souti, Poggy.
at the east end of Se Cocup Strait, in lat. 2° 50' S., about S. E. by S. J 1 or 12 leagues,
to the south point, in lat. 3° 20' S., about Ion. 100° 34' E.,t and it is from 3 to 4 leagues
in breadth. Several small islands lie contiguous to the western coast, and on the east
side, a little to the northward of the south point of the island, four small islands
form a circular group, with a harbour inside of them : the channel between the two
northernmost islands has 10 fathoms in it, and there are from 6 to 14 fathoms inside
the harbour. This is generally called South-east Harbour, which is the only place
of shelter on the east side of South Poggy ; but soundings extend along it to the north
point, where a vessel may occasionally anchor, opposite to some of the small villages.
The sea-coast of the Poggy Islands, in several places where the land is low, abounds
with coco-nuts ; some small spots have been planted with pepper vines, but the natives
are averse to labour. It is said, that on each of the three large islands, North and
South Poggy and Se Pora, there were about 800 inhabitants, when Captain Forrest
* Captain Ross is of opinion, that the shores of this strait furnish the best and most conveniently obtained
spars of any place known in those seas. The natives assisted in cutting the spar, and getting it on board, and
thought themselves amply remunerated by a present of coarse cutlery, beads, and small checked handkerchiefs,
of about 10 dollars value altogether.
t Captain W. Owen made the south end of this island in lat. 3° 21' S. and P 34' West of Rat Island by
chronometer, when passing in H. M. sloops Baracouta and Samarang in February, 1811.
128 SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
was there about 50 years ago. The tide among these, and the other islands which form
the chain, rises from 3 to 5 feet in the springs ; but currents often run with the pre-
vaih'ng winds.
Islands Laage LAAGE, or LARG,* and BERGEN, are two small islands, situated to the eastward
andBeipcn. ^j^^j g Eastward of the south end of South Pogiry ; Laage bearing from it about
S. E. by E. 9 leagues, in lat. 3° 30' S., Ion. 1° 12' West from Rat Island by chronome-
ters; a small round island, with trees on it, lies nearly close to the east side of Laage,
joined to the reef which surrounds them. Bergen bears about N.W. by N. from
Laage, distant 4 or 4^ leagues, and the channel between them is safe.
Coral banks There appear to be some Coral Banks to the westward of Laage, very little
adjacent. kuown, whicli probably are not dangerous. The Europa, May 2nd, 1797, steering
E.S.E. to pass to the southward of Laage, at II a.m., had ground 33 fathoms, next
cast 17, 10, 9, 8, and 7 fathoms; she then hauled off S.W. and deepened in half an
hour to 65 fathoms, no ground. When in 7 fathoms, upon this coral shoal, the east
point of Laage bore E. by N. about 3 leagues; and at noon it bore E. by N. 4 leagues,
the observed lat. 3° 32' S. Until this slioal is better known, it will be prudent to keep
4 leagues from the west side of Laage, in steering to pass it to the southward.
The Georgina, from Calcutta towards Bencoolen, February 24th, 1824, at 6 p.m. had
the south point of South Poggy bearing N. ^ E. about 5 or 6 leagues. Ion. 100° 11' E.,
by chronometers; steered East 18 miles till 12 p.m., had tlien soundings of 20 fathoms,
sand and stones : steered from this position South 5 miles in 26 to 25 fathoms, then
East 4 miles in 26 fathoms, regular soundings till 3^ a.m. 25th, and at 4 a.m. lost sound-
ings with 50 fathoms line.
The David Scott, Captain Thornhill, May 3rd, 1825, had 25 fathoms hard bottom,
the centre of Laage bearing N.W. ^ N. distant at least 3 leagues, and the small isle
oft' the east end of Laarge N. N.W. ^ W. about 10 miles ; being nearly calm, sent the
boat to sound two or three cables' lengths from the ship, and she found the same bot-
tom. As other coral spots may probably exist in the vicinity of Laage, not yet dis-
covered, it seems prudent to give this island a good berth on all sides.
The channel between Laage and South Poggy seems wide and safe, by the account
of the Addington, which ship passed through it July, 1804 ; or rather the channel be-
tween Laage and Bergen, which Captain Owen passed through in H. M. sloop Bara-
couta, February, 1811, probably is preferable.
Trieste Island. TRIESTE ISLAND, in lat. 4° 3' S., and about Ion. 101° 10' E., or 22 leagues to the
westward of Fort Marlborough, f may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck of a large
ship. It is small, extending about 1| miles N. E. by N. and S. W. by S., nearly sur-
rounded by a reef; but there is a coral bank of soundings stretching 3 or 4 miles from
it on the west side, and also on the east side, where a vessel may anchor occasionally
in 25 or 30 fathoms, if drifted near it by the current during calm weather; and some
fresh water may be got upon the island in the rainy season. With Trieste bearing
N.N.E. about 12 miles, Captain Thornhill, in the David Scott, had soundings from 65
In the Dutch charts, these two islands are marked Laage and Bergen, signifying that the former is law,
and the other high, which have been transmuted by the English into real names, by the corruption of Laage
into Larg.
t Captain Owen made it in lat. 4° 3^' S., and about 1° 8' West of Rat Island; Captain Ashmore made it 1° 9'
West from the same, by chronometers, and in lat. 4° 2^ S.
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS. 129
to 85 fathoms, when passing in May, 1825. The channel between this island and
Laage is spacious and safe.
ENGATVO, the southernmost of the large islands fronting the west coast of Suma- Engano u-
tra, and distant from it about 20 leagues, is from 6 to 8 leagues in extent, of triangular ''*"''•
form, having a level appearance when viewed far off, and may be discerned about 7 or 8
leagues from the deck. It is fortified by a rocky shore, with high breakers mostly all
round, the rocky ledges projecting out 2 or 3 miles in some places, with irregular sound-
ings about a league farther out, over a bottom of coral rock. When passing the south
end of the island in the Atlas, about 2 leagues' distance, we had 23 fathoms red and
yellow coral rock, at the same time high breakers on the reefs appeared about mid-
way between us and the shore. On the east side, to the northward of the S.E. point,
there is a bay inside of four small islands, with anchorage over a sandy bottom, and
shelter from most winds in the upper part of it, which extends considerably into the
land. The islands are surrounded by rocks, except the innermost small one, of a sandy
soil, has 8 or 4 fathoms close to, on the inside, and there is anchorage near it, over a
sandy bottom. The channel leading into the bay is betwixt the two outermost islands,
having 18 fathoms coral rock in mid-channel, and 7 to 4 fathoms white sand inside,
between the inner island and the north point of the bay, and here it is narrow and
bounded by rocks. To the northward of the bay there is a small stream of fresh water,
but the landing in most parts is difficult; it abounds with good timber, fine fish, yams, Supplies.
and coco-nuts. Captain Owen visited this island in November, 1806, in H. M. sloop
Seaflower, and H. M. ship Dover grounded near Amsterdam Island, tiie largest of
those fronting the bay, November 24th, 1809. When at anchor in 5 fathoms between
the islands, for the convenience of watering, observed lat. 5° 27' S., the S. E. point of
Engano bearing S. by W. ^ W., east point N. by W.^W., eastern island North to
N. N. E. fE., western island S. | E., small green islet S. W. | S., watering place
S. W. ^ W . Whilst watering here, the crews of the Dover's boats were attacked by the
natives, and several of the people speared.
Captain Owen's observations, together with those of the Dover, made the anchorage
between the islands in lat. 5° 27' S., Ion. 102° 28' E.,* the north point of the princi-
pal island he made in lat. 5° 12' S., Ion. 102° 10' E., and the south point appeared
to be in lat. 5° 39' S., Ion. 102° 15' E., or 5 miles East of Rat Island, Fort Marl-
borough.
The snow Fancy made the south point in lat. 5° 35' S., and Captain Napier made
it in latitude 5°31'S., or 8 miles less than Captain Owen. The island is well inha- Natives,
bited by people nearly of the same colour, but stouter and more active than the Ma-
lays. They go without clothing, and are armed with spears, made of hard wood,
pointed with bone or iron, which they use for striking fish ; they have canoes that
carry 6 or 8 men.
Captain John Napier, in the ship Good Hope, in 1810, was sent from Fort Marl-
borough in search of the survivors of tlie crew of the ship Union, Captain Barker, who
were retained in captivityf by the inhabitants of this island, after the ship was wrecked
there. Captain Napier made a sketch of the island, which was engraved at Calcutta
in 1817, accompanied by the following remarks and observations.
The north point of Engano is in lat. 5° 1 5' S., Ion. 102° 9' E., and the uortliern coast is Capt. Napiers
remarks.
* Captain Napier's chronometers made the anchorage 11 V miles East of Rat Island.
t Captain Barker, the officers, and most of the crew, perished under the cruel usage they received from these
savages.
VOL. II. S
130
SUMATRA, WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
Contiguous
islands.
Passages be-
tween the
islands.
Anchorage.
S.E. Point.
.South Point.
West Point.
bold, havino- no soundings from 3 to 5 miles off; tlie beach consists mostly of sand,
biit in some places the shore is rocky.
From the north point the coast extends E. byS. f S. 15 miles, to a point in lal.
5° 20' S., Ion. 102° 23' E., and from this another point bears S. S. E. 2^ miles. South
3 miles of the latter lies North Island, covered with trees, and, e.xcepting a small open-
ins," on the west side, it is surrounded by a coral reef of considerable e.vtent, partly dry
at low water, but having deep water close to it all round. South Island, distant
3 miles S. by W. from North Island, is also covered with trees, and surrounded by a
reef, excepting the western side, which has a sandy beach bold to approach. Middle
Island is very conspicuous from the sea, having a high sandy beacii, with a tuft ot trees
on the centre. A reef extends from this island to tiie S. S. E. and Eastward, but it is
bolder to approach on the north and west sides. Sandy Island, bearing N. N.W. less
than half a mile from Middle Island, is not more than 6 feet above the surface of the
sea, and a reef projects from it both to the eastward and westward ; but on the north
side it is bold, with 8 fathoms close to the beach.
The reef of the main island projects far out towards Sandy Island, rendering the
passage narrow, thougii perfectly safe, the reefs being steep to on botii sides, with 10
and 11 fathoms Avater in the channel. The passage between Sandy and Middle
Islands is still narrower, with 1 1 fathoms water, and equally safe. The passage
between Middle and South Islands has 10 and 17 fathoms water, and is also safe, by
keeping near to South Island, until it bear to the N. Eastward.
Between South Island and the low S. E. point of the main island there is no
passage, even for a boat. The passage between North Island and the main should
not be attempted, as the reef extends far out from the coast, rendering the passage
very narrow.
Outside of Middle and Sandy Islands there is shelter from the prevailing winds in
either monsoon, in 12 to 14 fathoms sand, good anchorage, and plenty of wood may be
got from either of the outer islands ; but as water can only be procured in the inner
bay to the northward of the village, a ship requiring a supply should anchor there, to
protect her boats and people, the natives being very treacherous. A vessel may anchor
in 4, 5, or fathoms sand and mad, within little more than a mile of the creek, keeping
nearest the south shore, which has in most places a sandy beach, bold to ajiproach,
the trees growing quite into the water in some parts.
The S. E. Point of Engano, in lat. 5° 3(/ S., Ion, 102° 22' E., is low and sandy,
covered partly by a range of palmira trees. The reef projects from this point 2 miles
to the S. E. and East, and joins that from South Island, having very high breakers.
The South Point, in lat. 5° 30' 50" S., Ion. 102° 13^' E., distant 9 miles West, a
little southerly from the S. E. point, projects in an acute angle, having, about a mile
distant to the S. Eastward, a pyramid or black rock, about 8 feet above water. Be-
tween these points the coast forms a concavity, fronted by the coral reef, at 1 to 1|^
miles distant, on which the sea breaks high in many places. In sailing along this part
of the coastal 4 miles' distance, no danger appeared from the mast-head, excepting the
reef, which is steep to ; and it was here, about 3 miles eastward of the south point,
that the Union was said to have been lost.
The West Point, in lat. 5° 21' S., Ion. 102° 3' E., by chronometer from Rat Island,
allowing the latter to be in Ion. 10-^° 10' E., bears from the south point N.W., distance
14 miles ; but the coast between them forms a concavity, having a small island near it,
in lat. 5° 20' S., Ion. 102° 10' E., surrounded by a coral reef to seaward, projecting
above half a mile, with high breakers. Here Captain Napier remained four days, and
KEELIXG, OR BORNEO CORAL ISLES. 131
anchored several times in 25 fathoms coral and sand, in coasting along this part, where
the part of the Union's crew were recovered ; the land is higher, seems better
cultivated, and has more inhabitants than any other part of the coast. The coral
leef that fortifies this coast must be very dangerous to approach in strong S.W.
winds.
From the west point, the north point of the island bears N. E. a little easterly, dis-
tant 8 miles, the coast between them forming two intermediate points, from which the
reef projects above a mile, with soundings near it from 35 to 25 fathoms ; soundings of
35 to 15 fathoms are obtained on most parts of the southern coast, at the distance of
a quarter to H- or 2 miles from the reef.
Formerly ships steering for Sunda Strait during the N.W. monsoon, when not cer-
tain of their longitude, endeavoured to get a sight of this island, which recpiires great
caution, on account of the surrounding reefs and the savage disposition of the inha-
bitants.
KEELING, or COCOS ISLANDS, have been described in the first volume of Keeling or co-
this work. Their value to navigators remained unknown, until Captain J. C. Ross "^"^ i^'^"''^-
visited the southern group in the ship Borneo, and found a good harbour, where he
lay from the 5th to the 9th December, 1825, putting the ship in a proper state to en-
counter stormy weather which might be expected on the passage to England, for she had
been found crank after leaving Padang.
As there are two groups of islands in those seas, known by the general name of
Cocos, one near the Great Andaman, and another near Hog Island, oft the west coast
of Sumatra, Captain Ross has distinguished the islands of the southern group by dif-
ferent names, in his plan of the harbour which he explored within this circular cliain.
Keeling is the former name of these islands, and which Captain Ross gives to the
north island, it being far detached from the southern group. This group, named Bor- Borneo corai
NED Coral Isles, consists of a circular chain of islands almost touching each other, ^*''^*-
lined on the exterior side by a steep coral reef, and forming inside an extensive lagoon
or harbour, named Port Albion, or Refuge Port. It has only one entrance for Port Albion.
ships, which is at the northern extremity, and is about 2 miles wide; this is bounded
on the west side by Horsburgh Island, the northernmost of the chain, and considerably
detached from the others, and by Direction Island on the east side. Straggling
rocks, and an extensive reef, called Turf Reef, stretches from Horsburgh Island to the Surrounding
South and S. S.W., uniting witii Ross Island, which forms the west side of the har- '^'*"*^^-
hour, and is 5 or 6 miles in length. Scott Island is in the form of a crescent, and lies
at the S. E. angle of the harbour, the south and western sides of which are bounded by
the coral reef. From the north end of Scott Island, the east side of the harbour is
bounded by a close succession of small isles, stretching to Clunie Island, which
approaches near to Direction Island, there being only a few islets between them. This
coral chain of islands, or rather wall, in the middle of the ocean, is elevated only from
3 to 10 feet above the sea, at high water spring tides. Most of the isles are covered Description.
with coco-nut trees, and two other species, one of them soft, white, and spongy ; the
other heavy, hard, dark-looking timber. The coco-nuts contiguous to the sea have a
saline taste, and are small, but those in the middle of the islands are good. The beaches
abound with land crabs, aquatic birds, and turtle.
A ship intending to enter Port Albion should pass near to the north end of Direc- Directions.
tion Island, to avoid the reef on the western side of tiie entrance ; soundings w ill be
got suddenly, when on a transit line joining the two islands that form it, and when
s 2
132 KEELING, OR BORNEO CORAL ISLES.
inside about a mile, having brought the north extreme of Direction Island to bear
about E. N. E. or N. E. by E., she ought to anchor in or 6^ fathoms in the outer
anchorage, which is perfectly smooth, and not proceed farther until she has ex-
amined the channels leading- to the East or West Harbours inside. These harbours
are separated by a large rocky shoal in the middle of the port, called Dymoke Shoal,
or Middle Ground, having on it from 1^ to 2|^ fathoms water. The southern extre-
mity of the port also is all very shoal.
The outer anchorage is sufficiently capacious to contain a great number of ships,
but is in some parts spotted with mushroom coral, which may easily be avoided in
anchoring, as the water is very clear. The bar or flat, inside the outer anchorage, is
extensive, also spotted widely with coral, and all the rocks are of this substance.
Ships drawing above 18 feet water should not attempt to sail In over the bar ; but
if on an emergency they do so, the coral patches may be avoided by a careful person
on the fore yard directing the ship's course. These patches are elevated two or three
feet above the natuial level of the bottom, and being of the mushroom species, of a
darkish colour, are easily discerned at a considerable distance, as the water is extremely
clear, and the sandy bottom of snowy whiteness.
Ships drawing about 21 or 22 feet water, intending to go inside, may warp over the
bar, and afterwards choose either the Eastern or VVestern Harbours at discretion,
taking care to avoid Dymoke Shoal, which is an extensive coral flat, with overfalls
near its edges, and, lying on dark bottom, is not easily discernible. The depths on the
bar are 3^, 3f, to 4 fathoms, and the best track is a little nearer to the islands
on the eastern side than mid-channel, the depth increasing when over the bar, to
5, 6, 7, or 8 fathoms in approaching the inner harbour, on either side of Dymoke's
Shoal.
Captain Driscoll, of the Lonach, from Port Jackson, bound to Bombay, November
24th, 1825, passed close to the northernmost of the Borneo Coral Isles, and sent a boat
to that called by Captain Ross Horsburgh Island, which Captain Driscoll made in
lat. 12° 3' S., by noon observation taken two hours previously, and he made it in Ion.
97° 2^' E. by observations of sun and moon, which agrees with the position assigned
to these islands in the first volume of this work. The Lonach's boat landed on a fine
sandy beach, covered with crabs and aquatic birds, and a path was perceived where
the branches were parted and the leaves trodden down, leading into the jungle;
several snakes were seen also ; and a large mast, with a bowsprit and teak carline, the
remains of a wreck.
New seinia. Nevv Sclma, whcrc Captain Ross resides, is on Scott Island, at the S. E. angle of
the harbour, in lat. 12° 12' 40" S., Ion. 97° 10' E.
Tides. The tide or flood runs into Port Albion, about 1^^ miles per hour over the bar, rises
from 5 to 6 feet ; high water about 4 hours on full and change of moon.
133
PASSAGE BETWEEN INDIA AND THE STRAIT OF
SUNDA, AND THE STRAITS EAST OF JAVA.
SHIPS proceeding from Ceylon or the Coromandel Coast for Sunda Strait, whilst Passage from
the S.W. monsoon is prevailing in north latitude, and the S. E. monsoon in south wrstrTit!"
latitude, from March to October, ought to rundown great part of their easting with between March
the S. W. monsoon, before they cross the equator. If they cross it in Ion. 93" or 94° E., ""'* October.
Southerly and S. S. Westerly winds, with variable squalls, may be expected to carry
them to the S. Eastward, and a reasonable distance from the islands off the west coast
of Sumatra may be preserved, by making a tack to the S. Westward at times, when
the wind veers to the S. E. A drain of current to the northward may sometimes be
experienced, but a ship will generally make considerable progress to the S. Eastward
by taking every advantage of the shifts of wind ; for, in the vicinity of the islands, or
within a few degrees of them, the winds hang much from South and S. S. W.; whereas,
in the ocean, far to the westward, the monsoon will be found to prevail from the S. E.
as a ship advances into south latitude, which will greatly prolong her passage, should
she have crossed the equator far to the westward.
If bound to Fort Marlborough, it will be prudent to get into the parallel of that
place before the islands are approached, then steer in for the coast to the southward of
Trieste Island, or betwixt it and Laage, as the winds permit. A ship bound direct
to Sunda Strait should keep out from the land until she reach the entrance of the
strait ; here, her progress will generally be more speedy than by keeping near the
shore; although a fast-sailing vessel may pass along the coast backward and forward,
between Fort Marlborough and Sunda Strait, in either monsoon.
SHIPS bound to Sunda Strait, from October to March, when the N. W. monsoon Passage from
generally prevails to the southward of the equator, may follow nearly the same track sundas?rak'°
recommended above for the opposite season, if they leave the Coromandel Coast, and between octo-
are enabled to run down a considerable part of their easting with the N. E. monsoon,
before they cross the equator.
Ships departing from Ceylon, in October, November, March, and April, when
N. W. winds are seldom found to prevail much in south latitude, ought to stand off
nearly close to the wind, if it blow from the N. E. quarter, and endeavour to make
several degrees of easting before they are forced close to the equator by the N. E. mon-
soon, which they will probably experience in November and March, at leaving Ceylon.
In December, January, and February, this may not be always necessary, for the N.W.
monsoon generally blows strongest in these months to the southward of the equator,
particularly in the latter part of December, all January, and part of February. In
these months, ships may steer a direct course from the South or S. E. part of Ceylon,
towards the entrance of Sunda Strait ; but, even at this time, it is prudent to stand to
the E. S. Eastward with the N. E. monsoon, until the bay is open, to avoid strong
westerly currents and light winds, likely to prevail in November and December, on
the meridian of Ceylon, nearly to the equator; and in the space comprised between
that meridian and the Maldiva Islands.
ber and Marcli.
134 PASSAGES TO THE STRAITS EAST OF JAVA.
Passage to iiie SHIPS boiind to any of the straits East of Java oiiglit, in the strength of the N.W.
javi'*^"'"'''^ monsoon, to make the Island PS'oesa Baron, in order to correct their reckoning- ; for in
December and January, the weather is often thick near the south coast of Java, with
strong westerly winds and easterly currents : should they fall in with that coast farther
to the westward, and pass along at the distance of 4 or o leagues, they will usually
have more favourable winds near the shore, than if farther out in the offing.
Captain Pope, in the ship Minerva, bound froui Bombay to Ciiina, with the Arda-
sier in company, left Ceylon, December 11th, 1808, and made Steep Point on the
31st ; they steered a direct course from Ceylon, and were considerably delayed by
light winds. On the south coast of Java they had fine weather and light breezes,
which enabled them to make the following observations in coasting along.
From Steep Point, in Ion. 107° 2.3' E. by chronometer, a course E. by S. will carry
a ship in sight of a bold and remarkable headland, in Ion. 111° 6' E., which appears
the easternmost point of a very deep bay, called in some charts Inland Bay. About
80 miles E. by S. from this headland are situated the point and islets of Tangala, and
two remarkable hills near the shore to the westward.
From the isles of Tangala, the course is E. by S. i S., 70 miles to Noesa Baron,
which the Minerva passed near, made the east point of Java, January 5th, 1809, and
anchored on the 9th, at Bally Town, in the Strait of Allass
111 November The Anna, bound to China by Sunda Strait, was embarrassed a consideral'le time in
and December, ]\ovember and December, -to the southward of Cevlon, by light winds and stronc,- west-
stront; westerly i ,• i i o i in • -ii i i c t
currents South ei'ly currcnts ; shc did not reacli Sunda Strait till the 3rd of January, 1793.
of Ceylon. -^j^^ Britannia left Ceylon for Amboina December 0th, 1800, and with North,
N.W., and West winds, she only reached lat. 3° 0' N., Ion. 81° 0' E., on the 11th,
having experienced a daily current of 00 miles, and sometimes more, setting to the
W. N. W. and Westward.* The current then abated, and changed to the eastward on
the r2th ; she crossed the equator on the IGth, and with a continuance of W. N. W.
and W. S. W. winds and changeable currents, mostly setting to the eastward, saw the
south coast of Java 20th; had then strong westerly winds, squally weather, and rain,
with a current of 30 miles on some days to the eastward, with which she anchored in
Sapy Bay, January 1st, 1801.
Passages from The Cauton, and fleet for China, in company, left Ceylon December 30th, 1790, made
S'Tofjiva the S. E. part of Java January 27th, 1797, and anchored in Allass Strait on the 29th.
In the latter part of November, and the first part of December, 1794, the Woodford
and fleet, for China, had brisk westerly winds steering direct from Ceylon to Sunda
Strait.
In the Atlas, we left Point de Galle for Batavia, January 8th, 1780, and for two days
kept nearly closed hauled to the N. E. monsoon, blowing then fresh at N. E. by E.,
which decreased on the day following, and was succeeded by variable breezes. On
the 12th, in lat. 2° 40' N., Ion. 8.3|° E., a strong N. N.W. monsoon commenced, with
which we crossed the equator 15th, in Ion. 91° E. ; the wind veered afterwards to West,
and continued mostly between N.W. and S.W., with cloudy weather and much rain,
until in lat. 5h° S., Ion. 100° E., we had faint breezes three days : strong N.W. winds
* Although the Anna, Britannia, and other ships, experienced strong westerly currents to the south-
ward of Ceylon in November and December, wliich prolonged their passage, and the former had very light
winds, this does not always happen ; lor the Bahar left Cape Comorin 16th December, steered from thence
S. S. E., crossed the equator on the 20th ; here, she got strong N.W. winds, and made a quick passage to
Sunda Strait. Tlie Sulivan, several years after, followed the same track as the Bahar did, and was equally
fortunate.
PASSAGES FROM CEYLON TO JAVA. 135
returned, with which we passed Engano on the 25th, and entered Sunda Strait the
following day.
In February, light winds are often experienced in the track between Ceylon and the
N.W. end of Sumatra; if, therefore, a ship, after leaving that island, meet with light
winds in north latitude, she should approach the equator without loss of time, where
N. Westerly and variable winds may generally be expected in February and part of
March.
INSTRUCTIONS for approaching JAVA HEAD, throughout the year, are given instructions
in Vol. 1st of this work, under the title " Directions from St. Paul, to the Strait of java'Tiead. "^
Simda." Nevertheless, it may feometimes be expedient to deviate in some degree from
general rules, as the winds and currents are liable to differ in some months of one
year, from their direction in the corresponding months of another year, as may be seen
by the following examples.
In May and June it is always thought safe to fall in with the land to the ^eastward
of Java Head, if bound into Sunda Strait ; as the S. E. monsoon generally prevails in
these months along the south coast of Java. The Cadogan, however, fell in with Java
Head, May "24th, 1729, and experienced variable winds from the westward, with
S. Easterly currents, which kept her working in sight of the Head till the 10th of June,
and prevented her from reaching Bencoolen until the 20th of this month.
The Montagu, bound to Amoy, in China, fell in with the south coast of Java to the
eastward of Java Head, October 8th, 1703, where she had variable baffling winds, and
a constant current of 2 to 2^ miles per hour setting to the eastward. She got sound-
ings generally within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast, excepting in the great bay to the east-
ward of Java Head, where no ground was obtained with 100 fathoms line within a mile
of the shore. Although she frequently anchored, to prevent losing ground by the cur-
rent, and ultimately got S. E. and easterly winds, yet she did not get round Java Head
into the strait until the 22nd of that month. It is therefore advisable to steer nearly direct
for Java Head in most seasons, if bound to the Strait of Sunda, and if the ship's longitude
be correctly known, borrowing a little to the eastward or westward w hen it is approached,
as may be required by the prevailing wind, or other circumstances at the time. If
bound to Bencoolen, a direct course to make Engano will probably be found the most
speedy in May, June, and part of July, and from thence direct for Bencoolen, as the
winds admit, because in these months the winds are often at N. Westward, with
southerly and easterly currents.
SHIPS bound from JAVA HEAD for Bombay ought to rundown their westing Passage fr™,
in the S. E. trade, and adopt the southern route, between the Chagos and Seychelle Hi'.i'.ioolun!"
Islands, from March to September. If they approach near the equator early in April,
or in October, when N.W. and Northerly winds prevail in north latitude at the
changing of the monsoons, they may, if the wind incline from the West and N.W.,
steer to the northward on the east side of the Maldiva Islands, and endeavour
not to fall in with the Malabar coast until past Calicut or Mount Dilly. But if
they are several degrees to the westward of the Maldiva Islands when the etjuator is
approached, the best passage to Bombay may be expected in April, part of September
and October, by keeping to the westward of the islands, and avoiding the coast.
From October till March it will be advisable to cross the equator nearly on the
meridian of the south end of Ceylon, as westerly winds are likely to prevail near the
equator, and from thence a few degrees to the northward, which will be favourable for
136
SUNDA STRAIT, NORTH SIDE.
steering to fall in with the land about Dondre Head or Point de Galle ; afterwards,
they may cross the Gulf of Manar, and follow the directions for sailing along the Ma-
labar coast, given in the first volume of this work, under the head " Monsoons, Land
and Sea Breezes, and Currents, on the western side of Hindoostan."
Ships bound from Java Head to Madras in the S. W. monsoon ought to make the
Friar's Hood on the east part of Ceylon, or at all events not fall to the northward of
their port. If bound to Madras or Bengal in the N. E. monsoon, they ought to borrow
within 3° or 4° of Hog Island or Achen Head, in passing into the Bay of Bengal, and
follow the directions given for ships proceeding from Europe by the " Outer Passage,
to places on either side the Bay of Bengal."
SUNDA STRAIT.
Entrance of
Sunda Strait.
Semanko, or
Keyser Bay
and contiguous
land.
Tubooan, or
Keyser Island.
SUNDA STRAIT has two channels, which lead into it from the westward, the
small channel between the west end of Java and Prince's Island, and the great channel
to tlie northward of this island, betwixt it and the south coast of Sumatra, now to be
described. The south coast of Sumatra, between Flat Point on the West, and Tanjong
Toca or Hog Point on the East, occupies about a degree of longitude, and is indented
by two large bays, the shores of which are fronted by numerous islands and rocks.
SEMANKO, or KEYSER BAY, formed between Tanjong Chinna and Tanjong
Tekoos, indents the land about 5 leagues in a N. Westerly direction, and is about
3 leagues wide, having various depths, from 50 to 100 fathoms at the entrance to 10
and 15 fathoms inside, along the western shore, and at the upper part, where the
anchorage is good over a muddy bottom : the village of Borne stands close to the N.W.
part of the bay, where are some shoal rivulets ; the shores are generally low, and the
land marshy near the sea, but in some places there are pepper plantations. The ship
Speke, in 1793, anchored in 15 fathoms about l^ miles E. N. E. from the mouth of
Borne rivulet, which the long-boat could not enter ; here, refreshments of all kinds
were procured from the Dutch Resident. A little inland from the N.W. angle of the
bay stands a high conical mountain, 2° 8f' W. from Batavia by chronometers, called
Samanca, or Semanko, Peak ; and to the eastward, between it and Lampoon Bay,
there are other mountains, the highest of them called Lampoon Peak : these mountains
are discernible a great way at sea, in clear weather, by ships approaching Sunda Strait.
Tubooan, or Keyser Island, situated in the middle of the entrance of the bay, is high,
bold, and safe to approach, the channel on either side of it being spacious and clear of
danger ; but the water is deep, and the bottom rocky in some places. On the N. E.
side of the island there is anchorage in 15 or 16 fathoms, sandy bottom, about a mile
from the shore ; and near the east point there is a salt water creek, having 6 feet
water at the entrance, with fresh water at its head, where a supply may be procured.
There are some pepper plantations on the island, and tall trees at the east end, fit for
masts.
Caloombyan
Harbour.
CALOOMBYAN HARBOUR, on the eastern side of Keyser Bay, at the en-
trance of Sunda Strait, has been surveyed by Lieutenants Hull and Johnston, of the
SUNDA STRAIT, NORTH SIDE. 137
Royal Navy ; it is small, but safe, sheltered from all winds, with sufficient depths of
water for large ships, and well adapted for a fleet in want of refreshments, as every
supply may be obtained, and the delay in the south-east monsoon would not be so
great here as at Batavia.
This harbour lies nearly east from the north end of Keyser Island, and may easily be
discerned by Hulo Eeyoo and Pulo Clappa, two small islands lying about a mile out-
side the entrance, having a safe channel, with 25 fathoms water between them.
The inner harbour is convenient for the native trade, as small vessels can load and
unload alongside the beach, and the village is three-quarters of a mile from the land-
ing place, situated in a valley, apparently a healthy s])ot.
By a few guns properly placed upon Pulo Clappa, Pulo Eeyoo, and the south point
of the harbour, this place might be rendered secure against the strongest force.
To sail into the harbour in the north-west monsoon, enter by the western passage Directions,
formed between Pulo Clappa and the north point, called Tanjong Napal, where the
depths are from 30 to 22 fathoms.
In the south-east monsoon, enter between Pulo Clappa and Pulo Eeyoo, if you
have a steady breeze.
The eastern passage between Pulo Eeyoo and the main is only safe for small vessels:
both the islands are bold, having 22 fathoms water close to them. When abreast of
Pulo Clappa, the south point of Keysers Island should be kept well open to the south-
ward of Pulo Clappa, and with this mark, steer in till Oogooron Point bears North,
which forms the north side the entrance of the inner harbour, then anchor in 9 or 10
fathoms, black mud ; but in all parts of the harbour a ship may safely anchor, there
being no invisible danger.
There is a small cove farther to the eastward near Tanjong Tekoos.
LAMPOON BAY, formed between Tanjong Tekoos on the West, and Rajah Lampoon Bay
Bassa on the East, is very extensive, being 6 or 7 leagues wide at the entrance, fJJandt^."'"'"^
stretching northward into the land nearly the same distance. From Tanjong Tekoos
a chain of islands extends a considerable way to the eastward, having channels betwixt
some of them, and between them and the point, with soundings from 40 to 20 fathoms.
Other islands line the western shore of the bay inside, between which and the main,
there are several good roads or places of shelter, formed by the adjoining islands and
shoals, with some villages opposite to them on the main.
PULO GOONDY, the outermost and largest island, is separated from Tanjong Puio Goondy
Tekoos by Goondy Strait, about half or three-quarters of a mile wide, with 30 or 40 »"'' strait.
fathoms water in it, and no soundings outside in the entrance, which renders it rather
difficult for large ships, on account of the eddy winds from the high land, w hich are
accompanied at times by strong currents. But with a leading land-breeze in the
morning, a ship might run out through it with safety.
The fleet from China, having watered at Rajah Bassa, worked across Lampoon Bay,
to keep in smooth water on the weather shore, intending to pass out on the west side
of the bay between Tanjong Tekoos and Pulo Goondy, but the Arniston having struck
on a rock about half a mile to the N. E. of the small island Oomowoomang, which
lies near the north end of Pulo Goondy, induced the fleet to pass out to the eastward
of it and the adjoining islands, in a good channel formed by these on the west side, and
the small island Saradong to the eastward, called also Tims Islet, which on the east
side is covered with brush-wood. When in this channel, Crockatoa Peak bore South.
VOL. II. T
138 SDNDA STRAIT, NORTH SIDE.
The Waterloo, Captain Alsager, in April, 1822, homeward-bound from China, came
from Rajah Bassa, inside the islands oft' Lampoon Bay, and then between Pulo
Goondy and the main, which strait was considered safe. When in mid-channel and
in the narrowest part, a cannon-ball, fired oft" from each side the ship, reached the
shore on both sides of the passage; and at 8 a.m., in the centre of the channel, sound-
ings of 40 fathoms were got, with Pulo Sarasat East, and Tanjong Tekoos bearing
West. The Waterloo passed through this channel in the morning, having anchored
during the preceding night in Pedada Bay, which aftbrds good shelter.
The Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson, Captain Innes, proceeded through it
on the 19th December, 1830, homeward-bound from China, and had room to work
through. She entered the north end of tiie passage in the morning with a light breeze
at W. S. W., steered to the southward for a small island, tacked at 8 a.m. to north-
ward, and at 8 hours 30 minutes tacked again to southward, passing within a quarter
of a mile of the western point that forms the narrowest part of tiie passage. A cur-
rent set strong through the passage to the southward, which Captain Innes thinks
would drift a ship clear of either shore during a calm, if the depths were too great for
anchorage.
He returned through this strait in the same ship, in December, 1832, and considers
it quite safe.
Nangga Hai- On the north side of Pulo Goondy a small bay is formed, called Nangga Harbour, with
''°"'^' the little island Pulo Patappan in the middle of the entrance, on the east side of which
is the best passage into the harbour, by borrowing near the shore of Pulo Goondy ;
here, the depths are from 15 to 10 fathoms, and there are from 12 to 7 fathoms inside
the harbour, where a ship might moor secured from all winds, and careen if necessary.
Captain Owen careened H. M. S. Baracouta here, in February, 1811, and moored
with the west extreme of the harbour bearing N.W. 1 mile, east extreme N. E. ^ N.
1 mile, west extreme of Pulo Patappan N. by W. 2 cables' lengths, east extreme of
the same N. N. E. 2 cables' lengths, distant from the bottom of the harbour 1 mile, and
Position from the reef 1 cable's length. Observed lat. 5° 46' S., Ion. 105° 4' E.
Kajah Bassa RA.JAH BASSA ROAD, situated directly Under the high land, called Refresh-
ment Head, that forms the east side of Lampoon Bay, has frequently been visited by
the homeward-bound China ships, it being an excellent place for procuring good
water with facility, and turtle at I dollar each ; a few fowls, bufl^alos, oranges, and
plantains, may be got for coarse cutlery, the natives seeming to care little for dollars,
when the fleet touched herein February, 1815, under convoy of H. M. S. Grampus.
The Winchelsea* anchored in 12 fathoms, blue mud, with Rajah Bassa Peak N. E.
by E. ^ E., extremes from N. ^ E. toS. E. 4 E., oft" shore 1^ miles, which is a good
berth for watering, tiiere being two runs of fine water issuing from the high land
nearly abreast, and another to the eastward of Coco-nut Point, either of which would
supply a fleet of ships.
Tiie fleet from China, under convoy of H. M. S. Cornelia, Captain William Owen,
anchored here January 21st, 1813; the Neptune, in 1(5 fathoms, blue mud, had the
westernmost of the Three Brothers bearing S. W. by W., Crockatoa Peak in one
with the high land of Pulo Sebese S. S. W., oft" the nearest of the Three Brothers
3^ miles, and from Rajah Bassa shore 3 miles. Large ships ought not to anchor
under 11 or 10 fathoms, for although the soundings decrease regularly over a soft
* Captain William MofFat, of the Winchelsea, at this time, made an excellent survey of Rajah Bassa Road,
with the soundings from thence to Hog Point.
SUNDA STRAIT, NORTH SIDE.
139
bottom to 7 or 8 fathoms in general, yet the shore is fronted by a rocky bank, which
projects to 5 or 6 fathoms in some places, and is very steep to.
Rajah Bassa Peak, called also Ejow Peak, is about 1,600 feet hio;h, the anchorage Position of the
of the road opposite. Captain Owen made by observation in lat. 5° 50' S., and it is """"^"^se-
about 7 miles East of Crockatoa Peak, or in Ion. 105° 32' E. The water deepens to 25
and 27 fathoms towards the Three Brothers, which lies about 4 miles W. by N. from
Coco-nut Point; and there are 18 fathoms in the gut between the Middle and South
Brothers : these tliree islands appear as one in coming from tiie eastward, and do not
begin to open until Rajah Bassa Road is approached. The depths, from Rajah Bassa
Road across Lampoon Bay to Pulo Goondy, are from 13 to 19 fathoms, regular sound-
ings and good anchorage.
The south extreme of Rajah Bassa Road, called Coco-nut Point, is low, with coco-
nut trees overlianging it, from whence the coast trends easterly, forming a concavity
between it and Hog Point ; the land is rather low near the latter, but rises gradually to
an elevated peak about a league eastward of Coco-nut Point.
Tanjong Toca,
or Hog Point.
Adjacent
rocks.
TANJONG TOCA, or HOG POINT, situated about 4 leagues to the south-
eastward of the east point of Lampoon Bay, in lat. 5° 54' S., Ion. 105° 43^' E., or 1° 8|'
W. from Batavia, by chronometer, is the south-easternmost extremity of Sumatra, and
bounds the Strait of Sunda on the north side.
There is a rock 6 or 7 feet above water, distant 2 miles N.W. from Hog Point, called
Collier Rock, being about 5(3 feet in circuit ; and 50 feet distant from it, lies a coral
rock under water. These are about a mile distant from the shore, with 50 or 55 fathoms
water close to, on the outside. There is another rock above water, bearing South from
Hog Point, distant two-thirds of a mile, with 65 or 70 fathoms outside of it, and deep
water between it and tiie point, which seems steep to, as no bottom could be got witli
the hand-lead in sounding close to it with a boat.
ZUTPHEN ISLANDS, called also HOUNDS, or HOG ISLANDS, front the zutpi.en is-
coast of Sumatra to the North-eastward of Hog Point ; there are several shoals and JfJighbouHng^
islets between them and the main, among which there is said to be anchorage in some coast.
places. The largest of these islands, and part of the coast adjacent, is high land,
mostly covered with wood ; to the southward they are very steep, having from 40 to 50
fathoms water very near them, where they ought not to be approached close ; but
towards the northernmost there are from 23 to 30 fatiioms ; and here ships might occa-
sionally anchor, particularly ofl'the north end of this island, which lies in lat. 5°50'S. Anchorage.
The Pigot anchored here in January, 1770, in 20 fathoms, mud and sand, Bantam
Point bearing E. by S. ^ S., Fourth Point of Java S. ^ E., west extreme of Thwart-the-
way S. by E., North Island N. by E. | E., Hog Island S. W., distant about a mile
from a small island that lies near the north extreme of the Zutphen. The boat had
regular soundings from the ship to the entrance of a river on the coast of Sumatra,
which bore from her N.N.W. ; she was launched over the bar, and they went about
H miles up the river, where Tangrea village stands, with rice fields about it, cattle,
poultry, and plenty of coco-nuts. Here, it is thought, some bullocks and poultry may
be procured for dollars; but Europeans landing on any part of the coast of Sumatra
must be always on their guard, for the natives are seldom to be trusted.
The Lascelles, in December, 1792, anchored in 15 fathoms; North Island bearing
N. by E. JE., the outermost point of Hog Islands S.^W., and the watering place
S. W. by W. ^ W., off shore 2 miles. The water, although not brackish, was very soft,
T 2
140 SUNDA Sl'RAIT. — ISLANDS.
and fit only for culinary purposes. Captain Jameson, of the Balcarras, says, the best
anchorage in Hounds Bay is to bring the Zutpheu Islands in one, in 11 fathoms.
The anchorage near tiie northernmost is stated by Captain Ladd to be preferalde to
the anchorage at North Island, during southerly winds, and also for obtaiuing a supply
of water at a Malay village on tlie coast adjacent, which bears W. by N. from one of
the northernmost islands. In November, 1830, he remained several days at anchor in
the ship Austen, during strong S.W. gales, in 9 fathoms water, soft ground, about 1 j
miles off shore, with the Zutphen Islands bearing S. E. to S.W. by S., and had very
smooth water.
Reef off iiouts From tlic South Zutphen Island, called Houts, or Woody Island, there is a reef of
gel-out cumm" '"ocks, distant about 2 cables' lengths, with 10 and 12 fathoms in the narrow gut be-
tween it and the island. February 12th, 1815, the China fleet, in passing these islands,
found a current sweeping round them to the westwaril, at the rate of 4^ miles per
hour, with strong ripplings rushing in among the island, which horsed some of the
ships close to danger : the Bombay, after dropping two anchors, was driven upon the
reeff off the South Zutphen Island, and after throwing part of her cargo overboard,
all her guns, &c., with great exertions of the fleet, she was hove oft' the reef into the
deep gut between it and the island, with great damage, which made it necessary to pro-
ceed to Bombay, where she underwent a complete repair. When aground on the
reef, Stroom Rock bore S. 361° E., Thwart-the-way from S. 31° E. to S. 53° E., But-
ton E. 8°S., St. Nicholas Point East, North Island N. 10° E., islet oft' the northern-
most Zutpheu N. 0° E., and the south-east point of Houts or Woody Island S. 31° W.,
being then on the inside of the reef of rocks, and 150 fathoms distant from the shore
of Houts Island.
The Castle Huntly brought up with two anchors in 14 fathoms rocks, about a cable's
length N. 47° E. from the Bombay aground, with a reef oflT the N. E. end of Houts
Island in one with the extreme of Long Island, or North Zutphen bearing N. 37° W.;
from this dangerous situation she got clear by slipping one cable and with springs on
the other, cut it, and sheered out clear of the reef.
On account of the rapid currents experienced near these islands at times, in the
westerly monsoon, ships ought not to approach them at the south and south-east parts,
nearer than Ig^ or I^ miles, particularly in passing Houts Island.
Great Channel GREAT CHANNEL, to the uorthward of Princes Island, at the west entrance
ofSunda'staU ^^ ^^^ Strait of Sunda, is separated into several passages by three large islands,
lying betwixt Princes Island and the land on the east side of Lampoon Bay. The
southernmost of these channels is about or 6^ leagues broad, formed between the
north end of Princes Island and Crockatoa ; although destitute of soundings or an-
chorage, it is mucli frequented, being the widest passage into the strait, and is consi-
dered clear of danger.
Sunken Rock. A Sunken rock was placed in some old charts, about 5 or 6 miles to the S.S.W. of
Crockatoa, said to have been seen by Lieutenant M'Cluer: Captain Drury, of the Navy,
is reported to have examined it a few years ago, and found it to be a rock near the
water's edge. There is, however, great cause to think there is no rock existing in this
place, and that the channel is clear from the south end of Crockatoa to the north end
of Princes Island.
Crockatoa. CROCKATOA, Or KRAKATOA, extending nearly North-west and South-east,
about 6 or 7 miles, and 4 or 5 miles in breadth, is a high island, steep to on the south
SUNDA STRAIT. — ISLANDS. 141
side, but having a reef of rocks projecting: a little way from the S. E. point. Near the
S.E. end of the island is a conical peak,* in lat. 6° 81' S., Ion. 105° 25' E., or 1° 20' W. The Peak.
from Batavia, by chronometers, bearing about N.E. by N. from the N.E end of Princes
Island, distant 7 or 7^ leagues. Several small islands lie contiguous to the west and
northern sides of the principal island, of which Verlatens or Forsaken Island at the
N.W. end, and Long Island at the N.E. end, are the largest.
A bank of soft mud extends out from the east side of Crockatoa and Long Island Anchorage.
about 3 miles, when the peak bears W.S.W. to S.W. by W., afibrding excellent
shelter from westerly gales, by anchoring in from 20 to 2.3 fathoms about 1| to 2^ miles
offshore. The peak bearing S.W. by W. is the best berth; but a ship should not
anchor with the north end of the island to the southward of West, or she will be ex-
posed to a heavy sea rolling in from the westward between Crockatoa and Pulo Bessy,
during a westerly gale. The Princess Amelia, with the fleet from China, took shelter
here December 28th, 1815, and remained till the 4th January, liJKi, in smooth
anchorage, during a continued gale from the westward ; while a Swedish ship was
driven into Welcome Bay, and rode with two anchors, against a very heavy sea. On
the north-east end of Long Island a swamp was found, with apparently a little rain
water, as no spring was discovered : a small spring of fresh water was found on Croc-
katoa, opposite the south end of Long Island, but it could only be approached by boats
at high water ; directly abreast of Long Island, on the north-east side of Crockatoa, a
hot spring was observed, in which the thermometer rose to 154°. No inhabitants were
seen on these islands, nor any trace of a village, and Captain Balston, of the Princess
Amelia, thinks no ship ought to depend on watering at Crockatoa. A wild hog was
shot on Long Island, and there are also some small deer on it.
The S. E. end of Crockatoa and east end of Long Island bear N. ^ E., and S. ^ W.
of each other, forming a bay with a coral reef projecting three-quarters of a mile, and
a rock, 2 feet under water, lies nearly a mile off the south end of Long Island. A reef
extends half-way across from the south end of Long Island towards Crockatoa, and
although regular soundings of 28 to 32 fathoms were found in the channel between
these islands, it is too narrow to be navigated by a large ship, and rendered more
dangerous by eddy winds : the north end of this strait is fronted by a small island,
and a reef of rocks, nearly even with the water's edge, extends from the north-west
end of Long Island, above half a mile in a westerly direction towards the north end of
Crockatoa.
On the 21st February, 1829, the Moller, one of the Russian corvettes, under com-
mand of Captain Lutke, although drawing only 14 feet, touched on a coral patch, said
* As the peak of Crockatoa may be considered the Fairway Jlark in entering the Strait of Sunda from the
westward, its latitude ought to be correctly known, and although the latitude stated here is thought to be near
the ti'utli, being the result of correct observations taken by Captain Lestock Wilson, corresponding with those
of several navigators ; yet, other officers, esteemed careful observers, differ more in the latitude of this peak
than could have been expected in a period of improved nautical astronomy. Captain T. Lynn made the peak,
by observation, in lat. 6° 12' S. (a). Captains Miliken, Craig, and Bampton, made it in 6° 10' S., and some
Dutch charts place it in the same latitude. I made it in lat. 6° 9' S., by indifferent observation. Captain L.
Wilson made it in lat. 6° 8' 3" S., Captain Balston in 6° 9' S., Captain Denniston in 6" 7' S., and Captain W.
Owen, of the Royal Navy, made it only in lat. 6° 3' S., or 9 miles less than Captain Lynn's observation,
although these two officers are known to be careful observers, and good nautical astronomers.
(a) Captain Lynn, afterwards, in 1817, made it in lat. 6' 8' S. Captain Hamilton, in 1820, made it in lat.
6" 9' 42' S. Captain Ashmore, in 1827, made it in lat. 6° T 39 " S. Some navigators think the peak should be
placed 2 or 3 miles to the N. N. W. of the position above stated.
142
SUNDA STRAIT.— rISLANDS.
Pulo Bessy.
Channel be-
tween it and
Croekatoa.
Hinrtoslan
Rock,
to be li miles from the nearest point of Croekatoa and S. E. from the isle that lies oflf
its N. E. point: but the description of its position, being given rather ambiguously
is not satisfactory.
PULO BESSY, or TAMARIND ISLAND, bearing about N. E. | E. from
Croekatoa Peak, distant .3|^ or 4 leagues, has also a high peak resembling a sugar-loaf,
in lat. 5° 57' S., and 3 miles East of Croekatoa Peak, and is sharper than the latter:
some islets and rocks join the north end of the principal island, but it is bold to ap-
proach in most places, having 11 and 12 fathoms regular soundings near the north and
east sides, and 10 or 17 fathoms near the western part. In February, 1821, when
blowing strong from S.W. by W., the General Kyd ran under Pulo Bessy, and
anchored in 13 fathoms, mud and sand, offshore about 2 miles, with the Peak bearing
W. by S., and had smooth water.
The channel betwixt this island and Croekatoa having regular soundings from 18
to 28 fathoms, mud, and being about 2 leagues wide, where ships can occasionally
anchor to stop tide, or otherwise, it is often preferred to the channel betwixt the latter
and Princes Island, particularly by ships working out against the westerly monsoon.
The HiNDOSTAN Rock, on which the ship of this name struck in 1791, is the only
known danger; it is of a spiral form, being only or 8 feet in diameter, with 15 feet
water on its summit, and 10 fathoms close to. About half-way between it and the
hushy S. E. point of Pulo Bessy, the depths are 8 and 10 fathoms, and it is distant
from the south end of this island about 1^ miles. When upon the Hindostan Rock,
Croekatoa Peak bore S. 15° W., the west extreme of Verlatens Island S. 45° W., the
East extreme of Long Island S. 2° W., Pulo Bessy from N. 44° E. to N. 2° W., the
peak of Keyser Island W. 12° N., and Zee Klip, or Gap Rock, W. 5° N., well open
to the southward of Kevser Island.
Zee Klip.
Directions to
avoid the Hin-
dostan Rock.
ZEE KLIP (Sea Rock) is a small group, consisting of two or three steep pyramidal
rocks, and lying about 5 miles to the westward of the south end of Pulo Bessy ; the largest
of these, having a cleft in it, is called sometimes Gap Rock.
To avoid the Hindostan Rock, a ship ought to keep at least 2 miles from the south
end of Pulo Bessy, but the best mark in proceeding through this channel is never to
bring the Gap Rock open to the southward of Keyser Island. When the Gap Rock
is in one with the south point of this island, it bears W. 12° N. ; W. 15° N. when on
with the centre ; and W. 17° N. when in one with the north point.
The islands on the south side may be approached within \\ or 2 miles, there being
23 fathoms mud about a quarter of a mile from the north point of Long Island, and
15 fathoms sand within a ship's length of the beacli ; but a reef of rocks, above
water, projects from the N.W. part of the island, half a mile or more to the W. N.
Westward.
Pulo sebooko. PULO SEBOOKO, or SAMBOORICO, in lat. 5° 53' S., lies to the N. N. E. of
Pulo Bessy, having a safe channel, nearly a league wide, between them, and it is
situated nearly mid-way between the latter and the S. E. point of Rajah Bassa Road :
it is high, covered with wood, and some islets and rocks lie contiguous to the north
and east sides, with good anchorage off the east part of the island, in 10 or 12
fathoms, near the small islets. A reef projects a little way from the south end of the
island, and also from the S.W. part, but on the north side there are 30 fathoms water
SUNDA STRAIT. — ISLANDS. 143
between it and the Three Brothers, which passage seems to be safe, although not
frequented.*
THWART-THE-WAY, or Middle Island, called Pulo Renyang by the Malays, Tinvart-the.
situated in the middle of the narrowest part of Sunda Strait, but rather nearer Hog ^^*^'
Point than to the Java shore, is of considerable size, being 4 miles long, and is mode-
rately elevated ; it lies about 7 leagues to the eastward of the islands last mentioned,
the N. E. end being in hit. 5" 55^' S. and 1° 1' W. from Batavia by chronometers, or Position.
in Ion. 105° 51' E. A reef projects a little way from the south side of it, and the bot-
tom is generally rocky near this island, with inconvenient depths for anchoring ; there
being from 40 to GO fathoms about a league to the northward of it, but less water near
its south and S.W. sides.
The channel between Thwart-the- way and Sumatra is much frequented in the west- channel le-
erly monsoon, by ships from Banca Strait bound to the westward, being shorter, sumrtra. ""''
although more contracted than the other cliannel betwixt Thwart-the-way and Java.
The northern channel may be adopted with a steady wind, for in such case, with the
westerly current, a ship will get speedily through ; but in light baffling winds, she is
liable to be drifted about by strong tides or currents near the Stroom Rock, where is
no anchorage except in deep water from 40 to 60 fathoms.
STROOM ROCK, about l|^or 2 miles to the N.W. of Thwart-the-way, is a group stroom Rock,
of three or four rocks, visible above the sea at high water, and then discernible only
at a short distance ; at other times it appears about the height of a long boat. Although Directions.
the passage betwixt this rock and Thwart-the-way is safe, the channel to the north-
ward is preferable, by keeping within 1^ miles of the Zutphen Islands when the wind
inclines from the Sumatra side, and giving a berth to the Rock off Hog Point. The
Stroom Rock, Button, and Bantam Point, are nearly in one, bearing E. 10° N. : when
in one with the northern extreme of Thwart-the-way, it bears E. by S.^S., and when
on with the S. Western extreme of that island, it bears S. E. by S.
There is a rock, marked "doubtful " in the Admiralty chart of Sunda Strait, about
2 miles to the northward of the Button, on which the American ship Claudius is said
to have struck. Captain Winsor, of that vessel, gives the following bearings for it.
The Button S. by E. l^ miles ; Thwart-the-way S. W. about 5 miles.t
SOUTH SIDE OF SUNDA STRAIT, WITH DIRECTIONS
FOR BATAVIA.
PRINCES ISLAND, or PULO PONTANGH, separated from the west part of princes isiami.
Java by a channel about 4 miles broad, is the largest island at the entrance of Sunda
* Captain George Creighton, of the ship Cordelia, being becahned near this island in February, 1837, men-
tions having seen " a reef trending in a N. W. direction to a considerable distance," oft' a point, winch he sup-
posed to be tlie west point of Sebooko ; a duster of rocks being also visible off its N.W. point, distant IJ or 2
miles from the island. When the northernmost of the Three Brothers was on with this cluster of rocks bearing
N.E., Saradong Island bore N.N.W. and Treeless Rock S.S.W. i \V.—(Naul. Mag. for I8.S7, p. 370.)
t Naut. Magazine for 1838, p. 152.
144
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE.
Strait, being- 18 miles long, from N. E. to S.W., and 10 miles broad; the north
end is in lat! G° 27' S., the peaked hill at tlie S. E. side in lat. 6° 35' S., Ion. 105° 15' E.,
or )° 37'* West from Batavia, by my chronometers, and it is about 4 miles to tlie east-
ward of Java Head. The middle of the island is hilly, but in some parts, particularly
at the west end, tiie land is level and low fronting the sea, and all the island abounds
with wood. A reef projects from the west jioint, betwixt which and the soutli point
of the island an extensive bay, called Casuaris Bay, stretches a great way inland,
having soundings of various depths, and anchorage at its upper end ; but being open
to tlie S.W., it is not frequented, and is consequently little known. The north side of
the island has soundings from 20 to 12 or 10 fathoms near the shore, but tlie anchorage
is destitute of slielter, and too near the land for ships to lie in safety. t With the peaked
hill on the S. E. part bearing from S.W. to N. N.VV., there is anchoring ground in 36
to 44 fathoms about a mile ofl'the eastern shore; and with the same liill bearing from
N. ^ W. to W. by N., there are from 10 to 30 fatiioms coarse sand, shells, and coral.
Anchorage. little morc than a cable's length oft' shore. Tlie common anchorage is on the east side
the island, with the hill bearing about S.W. by W., and the northern extreme N. ^ E.,
in 38 fathoms, fine sand, about three-quarters of a mile off shore; but as this road is
inconvenient for watering, the Peaked Hill may be brought to bear about N.W. by N.,
where a ship, in want of water, should anchor in 35 fathoms, soft ground, about half a
mile from the shore. Here is a small sandy bay, and at its eastern part a run of fresh
water, where the casks must be filled about 100 yards up, the higher the better, other-
wise the water will be brackish. It is only during the westerly monsoon that ships
can conveniently procure water here, for the springs are nearly dry in the S. E. mon-
soon, when there is little rain ; the strong winds also, which blovv in this season over
the west part of Java, render the anchorage at the East of Princes Island unpleasant,
it being then a lee shore.
From the N. E. end of the island a reef extends along the shore on each side ; some
rocks and breakers also lie at the S.E. side of it, in a bay to tlie S. Westward of the
peaked hill; but the rocks called the Carpknters are most in the way of ships
passing betwixt Java and Princes Island. These are a group of large rocks projecting
from the south point of the island nearly a mile, having no anchorage near them, there
being 50 fathoms close to, and about two ships' lengths from them no ground.
Princes strait. PRINCES STRAIT, the BEHOUDEN, or Safe Passage of the Dutch, formed
between Princes Island and Java, is the small or southern channel leading into Sunda
Strait; it was formerly much frequented, and recommended as the best passage, both
to enter and depart from that strait ; and although still chosen by many ships, the
preference is now generally given to the great channel betwixt Princes Island and
Crockatoa, or to that between the latter and Tamarind Island, with a steady fair wind,
unless a ship intend to water at Mew Bay, which is more convenient than Princes
Island for that purpose.
First Point. FIRST POINT of Java, or TANJONG ALONG-AJANG, is the south point of
the entrance of Princes Strait, easily known by a remarkable rock oft' it, called the
Friar, that lies nearly S.E. by S. about 5 miles from the Carpenters, which bound
* Captain L. Wilson made the Peak 1° 38|' West from Batavia by chronometers, or If miles more than
stated above.
t Commander R. Collinson, R.N., in a letter dated 7th July, 1840, states, that the N.W. extreme of Princes
Island, as given in our present charts, is estrended 3 miles too far in that direction.
Dangers.
SUNDA STKAIT, SOUTH SIDE. 145
the other side of the strait. The west end of Java extends 5 leajjues about N. N.W.
and S.S. E., and is a steep high land, projecting a little to the northward of the middle
part, which is generally considered as Java Head, already mentioned in the first
volume of this work. The First Point is in lat. G° 44' S., distant nearly 2 leagues to
the northward of the Head, and the coast between them, which forms a bight, is
fronted by high rocks in some places stretching out about a mile. On these rocks,
also on the Friar, and Carpenters, the sea breaks high during westerly winds, or in
bad weather.
Ships proceeding through Princes Strait, in the N.W. monsoon, should keep near to Directions.
Princes Island and the Carpenters, particularly in working out against westerly winds ;
a current will then, sometimes, be found setting out in tlieir favour. During the other
monsoon, when S. E. and southerly winds prevail, they ought to keep nearest to the
Java shore, and the Friar, which rock may be approached within 1 or 2 cables' lengths,
with a steady southerly wind.
A ship may sometimes get quickly out to the westward through Princes Strait in
the N.W. monsoon, during squally weather, when it would Ije diflicult to beat out to
the northward of Princes Island. Captain John Cowman, in the Magdalen, beat out
through this strait against a westerly gale, by carrying a press of sail, and tacking be-
tween the squalls, at a time when the heavy sea made it impossible to tack the ship in
the Great Channel between Crockatoaand Princes Island ; notwithstanding, he was only
36 hours from North Island until clear out of the strait, while other ships from China
anchored for shelter under Crockatoa. The Elphinstone, of 1,200 tons burthen, Cap-
tain Milliken Craig, bound to China, entered Princes Strait in the afternoon of the 3d
of August, and passed through it in the night without anchoring.
MEW ISLAND, in lat. 6° 43' S., called alsoCANXAE, situated in Mew Bay, about Mew island.
a league eastward of the First Point of Java, is small and hilly, abounding with wood ;
betwixt it and the First Point there is an islet near the Java shore, and regular
soundings over a sandy bottom are found to stretch along this side of Princes Strait.
There is a safe but narrow channel betwixt Mew Island and Java, with various sound-
ings from 5 to 8 and 10 fathoms, over a sandy bottom, nearest to the island, where a
ship vnd} lie land-locked, and be sheltered from all w inds. South, from the body of
the island, but nearest to the Java shore, there is a rocky shoal, which is avoided by
keeping nearest to the island ; and in every other part, a little nearer the island than
mid-channel, is the best track for vessels passing through, or taking shelter here.
The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew Island, but safe to approach ; the soundings
decrease gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms. On the Java shore, to the eastward of the
island, there is an excellent watering place, during the southerly monsoon, being then Watering
preferable to that at Princes Island, where the wind blows upon the shore, and the ^''"^'^
water is sometimes scarce: whereas, here the water pours from the rocks in great
abundance, and is of superior quality to that of Anjer, North Island, or the Nanka
Islands.
A ship proceeding to the watering place at Mew Island must give a bertii to a reef
of rocks, which bears about N. by W. nearly half a mile from the watering place. She
may run betwixt it and the island, borrowing towards the latter, and anchor in 10 or Anchorage.
12 fathoms inside, in the channel formed between the island and Java ; or she may
anchor farther out in 14 fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand, with the peak on
Princes Island N. 13° W,, the extremity of Mew Island W. 8° S., distant from the
Java shore about 1| miles, and from the watering place 1^ miles. The Royal George,
VOL, II. u
146
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE.
Water.
Tides.
Second Point.
at anchor in 18 fathoms, had Princes Peak bearing N. 15° W., nortii extreme of
Princes Iskmd N, 2° W., north extreme of Java N. 42° E., southern extreme of the
Carpenters iN. 70° W., Mew Iskxnd from S. 15° W. to S. 88° W., distant half a mile,
and tiie Watering- Place S. 21° E., distant 1| miles. This ship and the Thames
watered here, March 2tith, 1813. H.M. ship Grampus, with the fleet from China, also
watered here. May 1st, 1811. When the William Pitt watered here in May, 1820, the
wood had grown over the cascade, so that it could not be perceived at high water, but
was found by the noise of the water falling into the sea.
Mew Island is not inhabited, but ships touching there sometimes procure a small
supply of turtle, fowls, and coco-nuts, at an exorbitant price, from the people of
Princes Island, who bring them over in their proas. Plenty of wood may be got upon
the island, or on the opposite shore of Java, near the watering place, but the shore
party ought to be on their guard against hidden assault from the natives. The water
is clear and good, and falls in a cascade from the land, upon the beach ; with the assist-
ance of a hose, it may be filled into boats without landing the casks. Inland, a con-
siderable way from the watering place, are some huts or villages, but none contiguous
to the sea on this part of the coast.
It is high water here, at about 6 hours on full and change of the moon.
SECOND POINT, or TANJONG GOOKOOLANG, in about lat. 6° 36' S., and
3 leagues N. Eastward from Mew Island, may be approached to 15 or 16 fathoms,
about H or 2 miles' distance ; and a ship may keep in moderate depths for anchoring,
in passing along the coast between them, there being no danger unless near the shore.
On the east side the point. Welcome Bay extends a great way into the land, containing
several islets and shoals ; the outermost of these shoals extends E. N. E. and W. S.W.
about two cables' lengths, and is half that breadth, having only 9 feet water on it in
some places. From this shoal, the Second Point is said to bear W. N.W. about 5
miles, then on with the northernmost peak of Princes Island, and the Third Point
N. E. -^ E.* About a cable's length outside of it there are 19 fathoms water, so that
care is required not to stand into the bay, in working, vvhen near this shoal ;
with a fair wind, a direct course should be steered from the one point to the other,
without borrowing into the bay. The eastern side is more clear, with good shelter
in the S. Easterly monsoon, but in the westerly monsoon this bay ought to be
avoided.
Third Point.
Anchorage at
Seriguy.
THIRD POINT, or TANJONG LUSSONG, in lat. 6° 27' S., separates Welcome
Bay from Pepper Bay, the latter being on the east side of this point, and bears nearly
N. E. by E. about 4 leagues from the Second Point. To the eastward of the point,
there is an islet inside of Pepper Bay, with shoals to the north-westward, rendering the
approach to it dangerous ; much caution is necessary in the navigation of this bay,
throughout, as the water is generally shoal. A ship being abreast the Third Point,
about a league distant, the small island Seriguy or Pulo Papale, in the N. E. part of
Pepper Bay, may be seen bearing about E. by N., but will then appear as part of the
contiguous coast ; to touch here, it will be prudent to steer across the bay, keeping the
island on the starboard bow, and not liorrow towards the shoal water near the Java
shore. A ship may anchor about 2 or 3 miles from Seriguy in 7 or 8 fathoms, with it
bearing about S. S. E. ; refreshments may be procured from the village on the main,
* By Admiralty chart, N. E. ^ N.
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE. 147
but at high prices. A reef projects from the island about a mile to the northward,
and stretches from thence to the Java shore.
FOURTH POINT, or TANJONG CIECORANG, about 4^ or 5 leagues N. ^ E. Fourth Point,
from Seriguy, is low to seaward, and most part of the coast betwixt it and Welcome
Bay is low, interspersed with hills in some places, and abounding with coco-nuts. In
roasting along betwixt Seriguy and the Fourth Point, a ship should keepabout 3 miles
or more from the shore, in soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms, to be enabled to anchor,
if calms and contrary currents render it necessary. About half-way from Seriguy
towards tlie point, it would be imprudent to borrow too near the shore, for reefs stretch
out nearly a mile in some places : and from the Fourth Point a reef projects about
a mile, with 20 fathoms almost close to it. Near the same point there is said to be a
reef of rocks adjoining the shore, and a sand-bank stretching ofl' from the reef about
half a mile, on which the Catherine was lost.* From the outside of it, in 12 fathoms
water, the Button bears N. N. E. | E., Thwart-the-way N. ^ E., Crockatoa West, and
the nearest part of the Java shore S. E. by E., about 2 or 2^ miles.
Having entered by Princes Strait, and being abreast the Second Point, a vessel T" sa'i from
should steer a direct course for the Fourth Point, bearing nearly N. E. from the for- poinMo'the
mer, distant about 13 leagues; or having entered by the great channel, to the north- I'o""'' ^°"'^-
ward of Princes Island, a course should be steered for the same point, if it be intended
to stop at Anger Road, or at Batavia : for it will be prudent to keep near the Java
coast during the southerly monsoon, and pass betwixt it and Thwart-the-way,
whether bound to Batavia, or Banca Strait. From the Second Point to the Fourth
Point there is generally good ground for anchoring occasionally, in 18 to 25 or 30
fathoms.
ANJER VILLAGE, in lat. 6° 3' S., Ion. 105° 55' E., about 2 leagues eastward of Anjer.
the Fourth Point, is not easily perceived in coming from the westward, being situated
in a bay, where the houses or huts are scattered amongst the coco-nut trees, and
nearly obscured by them, and by the chain of hills inland. The easternmost of these
is a sharp peaked hill, called Anjer Peak, directly over the village, and is on with it
bearing S. S. E. ; from the S. W'. point of Thwart-the-way the village bears S. E., and
from the eastern extreme of the same island it bears S. S. E. | E. Ships frequently
touch at this place in the southerly monsoon to procure refreshments ; but the road is
not considered safe nor convenient in the opposite season, for it is then dangerous
landing, on account of the high surf. There is much surf sometimes, even in the
southerly monsoon, for on May 20th, 1820, the Company's ship William Pitt anchored
here, and could not procure any supplies without waiting two days, until they could
be brought from the country ; and finding it impracticable to get fresh water from the
shore, on account of the heavy swell rolling into the road, she proceeded to INIew Bay
to fill up her water. The Company's ship Charles Grant, bound homeward from
China, anchored at Anjer, April 10th, 1826, and on the following morning parted from
all her anchors in a hard gale from the westward, was driven on tlie rocky shore, and
• By this ship's journal, it appears that she struck on a sunken rock about 2 miles off the shore at the
Fourth Point, between 11 and 12 a.m., September 20th, 1716, where she bilged, but floated off, and was run
on shore to save the treasure, and part of the cargo. Captain Hunter, of tlie Catherine, went with the
treasure in the long-boat to Batavia, and the governor gave every assistance, by sending sloops to take out
the cargo, which was carried to Edam Island. The Javians afterwards burnt the hull of the ship to procure
the iron.
u 2
148
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE.
did not get off till the 16th, after having lightened the ship, and with the loss of her
rudder, and otherwise sustaining great injury. This shews that Anjer Road is not
safe in the month of April, and should be avoided by the homeward-bound ships.
Buffalos, some hogs, poultry, vegetables, and fiequently turtles, may be procured here;
Aiiciiorage. Water may be had by employing the shore boats. The common anchorage in Anjer
Road is in from 9 to 14 fathoms abreast the village.
Betwixt the Fourtli Point and Anjer Road the soundings are irregular and the
coast steep, the depths from 30 to 35 fathoms about 3 miles off, decreasing to 8 and
10 fathoms about half a mile from the shores of Anjer Bay.
Cap. SMALL CAP, called Pulo Oolar, or Snake Island, by the Malays, is a little
round isle, bearing N. N. E.* from Anjer village about 4 or 5 miles, and nearly
E. S. E. from the south part of Thwart-the-way ; between it and the latter island is
the proper channel, having various depths in it from 20 to 50 fathoms, over an uneven
and generally rocky bottom. There is a passage betwixt the Cap and the Java shore,
but ships do not proceed through it, on account of Brouwer Sand bounding it to the
eastward.
Button. BUTTON, or GREAT CAP, in lat. 5° 5.3' S., and 2 leagues North from the
Small Cap, of similar appearance, but larger and higher, is steep and covered with
small trees. From Anjer Road, nearly to St. Nicolas Point, there is anchorage in 20
to 16 fathoms by borrowing towards the Java shore; but outside, the depths being
great, and the bottom unfavourable for that purpose, ships are liable to be drifted
Tides. about by the strong tides, if the wind fail them, for the tide runs through this narrow
part of the strait with great velocity daring the springs. Betwixt Thwart-the-way
and the Java shore, and off the Button, tiie tides or currents set generally strong
through the strait to the S. Westward in the south-east monsoon ; and in the opposite
direction during the westerly monsoon.
Broiiwei Sand. BROUWER SAND bounds the channel on the inside, and stretches a consider-
able way parallel to the coast of .Java, having an islet and a small passage between it
and the shore ; it is a dangerous shoal, steep to seaward, there being deep water very
near it on the outside. When the Harrison's boat was on it in 1^ and 2 fathoms
water, the Cap bore S. W. i S., Thwart-the-way W. by N., the Button N. W. ^ N.,
the point of an island near the shore, supposed Palo Merak, which shut in Bantam
Point, N. by E., and an isle close in shore, or Little Palo Merak, E. N. E. To avoid
this shoal, a ship should keep nearly in mid-channel between the Button and the Java
shore, taking care not to bring the Cap in a line with the point on the west side of
Anjer Bay, generally called Anjer Point, or Fourth Point.
Pulo aierak. PULO MERAK, KETCHEEL, or Little Pulo Merak, lies near the shore abreast
of the north end of Brouwer Sand ; and Pulo Merak Besar, or Great Pulo Merak,
to the northward of it. Between the latter island and the main, is Merak Harbour,
about a quarter of a mile in extent, and having irregular soundings from 6 to 18
fathoms water in it ; it was surveyed by Captain Bayley in His Majesty's sloop Bara-
couta, in September, 1812, and seems to afford good shelter for small ships.
Bantam Point. BANTAM POINT, or ST. NICHOLAS POINT, in lat.5°52' S., lon.l06°2'E.,
* In some charts N. J E.
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE. 149
or 50 miles West from Batavia by chronometers, is a high, bold headland, and bears
from the Button E. by N., distant 7 or 8 miles. Close to the shore, on each side of
it, there are some small islands, Pulo Tampasa to the S. W., and Pulo Saleyra in the
bay on the east side : the soundings ofl' this part of the coast are mostly regular, and
ships may anchor in some places in 20 fathoms, clay or sand, about 2 or 3 miles from
the point ; but it appears that the depths do not decrease regularly close to this point,
for the Scaleby Castle had 38 fathoms, hard bottom, with it bearing South, distant
one mile, where 18 fathoms is marked in some charts, and even 12 fathoms in the
Dutch charts.
The coast between it and Anjer is high, with indifferent anchorage in the channel
until Bantam Point is approached ; but there are spots between it and the Button,
where a ship may occasionally anchor to stop tide, particularly towards the Java shore,
where the depths decrease in most places.*
PANGORIANG, a small place about 4 miles to the eastward of Bantam Point, pangoriang.
has a small rivulet of good water and convenient anchorage, where ships may easily
procure a supj^ly of that article, and other refreshments may be got at times : this
place was frequented by H. M. ships when Java belonged to the British Govern-
ment, and the anchorage is in from 10 to 16 fathoms. December 7th, 1812, Cap-
tain Owen, in H. M. S. Cornelia, anchored in 13 fathoms, mud, with Ejow, or
Rajah Bassa Peak, bearing W. 10° N., Bantam Point W. 2° N., Pulo Saleyra, or
Roben Island, W. 3° S., Goonong Laoo, or the highest hill near the ship, S. 18° W.,
Pulo Kaly S. 26° E. to S. 45° E., Great Pulo Mady S. 64° E., Pulo Poutangh S. 68°
E., centre of Pulo Baby N. 72° E., and the watering place S. 33° W., off shore about
l:j miles.
Pulo Kaly are two small islands, having a passage of 4 fathoms within them, afford-
ing good shelter for small vessels ; they lie about half-way between Pangoriang and
the red arid bluff extreme that forms the west side of Bantam Bay ; from whence, all
the shore is rocky to the sandy bay of Saleyra, on the S. E. side of Bantam Point.
Pulo Saleyra, fronting this bay, is low and woody, with a sandy beach, having 2
fathoms water inside of it, and 22 fathoms near it on the outside.
A ship sailing from, or being abreast of, Anjer Road, should steer to pass outside the To sail from
Cap and inside the Button, at any discretional distance from either, taking' care not to ^nvard.""'
borrow too close to BrouwerSand in passing; when clear of that shoal and the Button,
she may steer N.N.E. for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banca Strait ; or to pass Ban-
tam Point within 2 or 3 miles, if bound to Batavia or Bantam.
THE TIDES in the narrow part of Sunda Strait are greatly influenced by the Tides ami
winds, and frequently resemble currents more than regular tides. In Anjer Road *^""*"
the ebb sets often from 1 to 2 miles per hour to the westward, during the south-east
monsoon ; continuing to run sometimes about 14 hours, with a slack or flood of 6 hours.
Off Thwart-the-way and the Button, in the same season, it often runs 14 hours at a
time to the south-westward, from 2 to 3j miles per hour : tlien changes, and sets to
N.W. and northward, with mucii less velocity. At other times the ebb sets about
6 hours to S.W., and the flood 6 hours to the N.E., with nearly equal velocity, about
• With the Button bearing W. | N. 2 miles, %ve anchored in tlie Anna in 28 fathoms, to stop tide during
the night, and had 20 fathoms nearer to the Java shore. At another time, we anchored in the night in 37
fathoms, with the Button bearing S. by W. J W., but here the ground was hard.
150
SUNDA STRAIT, SOUTH SIDE,
3 or 3| miles per hour, when strongest on the springs, which we experienced in the
Anna, in July anil August.
During the westerly monsoon, betwixt Java and Thwart-the-way, the tide has also
been found to run 3 and 3|^ miles per hour when at its greatest velocity, the ebbO hours
to the S.W., and the flood the same length of time to the N. E. ; but during strong
gales from the westward, the flood frequently runs longest into the strait. In this sea-
son, the tide or current on the opposite side the strait slants off" from the Sumatra coast
about the Zutphen Islands, towards the middle of the strait, or the Java shore ; and from
December to February, the ebb tide along the Sumatra coast, between North Island and
Hog Point, has been experienced to rim generally to the southward from 4 o'clock in
the morning until (i in the evening, and the flood weakly to the northward during the
night. In February and March, a rapid current of 4 to 4^ miles per hour sets some-
times in among the Zutphen Islands to the W. S. Westward, or round them towards Hog
Point, which requires great caution in ships passing those islands, or between Hog Point
and the Stroom Rock.
Jiantam Bay.
Tides.
Pulo Baby and
islands to the
pastward.
BANTAM BAY, about 2^ leagues to the south-eastward of Bantam Point, is ex-
tensive, containing several islands; of which Pulo Panjang, along flat island, covered
with trees, in the west part of the entrance, is the largest. A ship may pass on either
side this island, if bound to the anchorage at Bantam, but the eastern channel between
it and Great Pulo Mady is preferable, having 8 or 9 fathoms water, and is much wider
than the western channel, which is formed between the point that bounds the west side
of the bay, and the west end of Pulo Panjang ; the depths in it are 6 and 7 fathoms.
If a ship pass through this channel, she must give a berth to a reef that projects from the
south side of Pulo Panjang, and others which extend from the small islands in the
western part of the bay. If she enter by the channel to the eastward of Pulo Panjang,
Bantam Hill, of round form, will be seen, which is on with the town bearing S. S.W.;
and when the flagstaff" of Bantam bears S. S.W., it is open a little to the westward of
Little Pulo Mady : with either of these marks on, she may steer for the town, passing on
the west side of Great and Little Pulo Mady, and anchor off the town in 5 or fathoms,
mud. There is a passage to the eastward of these islands, but the channel betwixt
them and Pulo Panjang has the deepest water. Pontangh Point is bluff", and forms
the east side of Bantam Bay, from which a reef projects far to seaward, with a regular
decrease of depth towards its outer edges. The perpendicular rise and fall of tide is
5 or 6 feet in Bantam Bay.
PULO BABY extends about 4 miles nearly East and West ; its west end is in lat.
5° 48' S., and bears from Bantam Point E. by N. | N., distant 13 miles. This island
is woody and bold to approach, exce|)ting the east end, from which projects a reef.
About 5 leagues nearly East from it lies the westernmost island of the group called
Hoorn Islands ; this is the largest of the group, and is called PuloTidong, or Wapen
Island, the west end of which bears about N.|^W. from Maneater Island, distant 4
leagues; and to the south-eastward of these the Great and Little Cambuys are situated.
Pulo Baby and these islands, with their adjoining shoals, bound the north side of the pas-
sage leading to Batavia ; and the shoals which stretch along the Java shore, from that
oft' the east point of Bantam Bay, to that projecting from Maneater Point, bound the
opposite side of the passage. The coast of Java, in this space, is low near the sea.
Maneater Island, situated near the N.W. end of the shoal of that name, which ex-
tends a great way out from Java, is level and low, and bears from the west end of Pulo
B ATA VIA, 151
BabyE. 29°S., distant about 7 leagues, and 5 or 6 miles W. S. W. from the Great
Cambuys. There is a conspicuous tree on the latter, and both it and the Little Cam-
buys are moderately elevated.
DIRECTIONS FOR BATAVIA.
A SHIP bound to BATAVIA, being abreast of Bantam Point, about 3 miles dis- Passage from
tant, ought, with a fair wind, to steer about E. by S., to pass mid-channel between towanu
Pulo Baby and the shoal projecting from the east point of Bantam Bay ; and the same Batavia.
course continued will carry her in the fair channel towards Maneater Island, if not
affected by an oblique tide, which generally sets nearly East and West along this part
of the coast : but if the wind is oft' the land, a course a little more southerly may be
requisite. The best track is to keep in 14 and lo fathoms when a ship is under sail
during the night, taking care not to borrow under 12 fathoms towards the Java shore,
nor to deepen above 18 fathoms in the offing. For strangers to run in the niglit, it
may sometimes be imprudent; but they can never be at a loss for anchorage after
reaching Bantam Point, there being moderate depths for that purpose from hence
to Batavia.
When the Great Carabuys is approached, the channel becomes contracted, and
bounded by shoals, which ought to be passed only in day-light: one of these has 16
feet water on it, and is about the size of a ship ; the west end of Pulo Tidong bears
from it N. ^ E., and the east end N. N. E. ^ E., Great Cambuys E. S. E. southerly.
There are several dangers, called Ostrich Shoals, hereabout, the S, Easternmost of
which is a rock, with a cross placed on its centre, in 15 feet water; Maneater Island
east point bearing from it S. ^ VV., the Great Cambuys north point E. by S. ^ S., and
Cambuys Reef Cross E. S. E. ^ S., which is No. 21 in the List of Sea Marks, consist-
ing of crosses and beacons, placed on the shoals by the government of Batavia, in
1832 : and the cross on the south-east rock, mentioned above, is No. 22. These
crosses and beacons are 12 feet above water, painted white, and, according to the
Tabular List of these sea-marks published at Batavia in 1832, may be seen 4 or 5
miles in clear weather.
There are various channels amongst the islands from hence to Batavia, but that
adjoining the coast of Java is most frequented by ships of moderate size.
THE OUTER CHANNEL is on the north side the Great and Little Cambuys, cuercimnnei.
and a ship intending to adopt it should keep within a mile of the great one, to avoid
the shoals to the northward, nor ought slie to approach tiie east end of the same island
under half a mile, it having a projecting spit. After passing these islands, she must
edge to the southward until they are on with each other, then steer about E. N. E. for
the small island, called Pulo Dapour, or Duffens Island, keeping it a little on the
starboard bow. By steering towards it, she will pass betwi.\t two shoals, separated
about 1^ miles from each other, on which beacons have sometimes been placed ; it
will, however, be prudent to keep a boat a-head sounding, if unacquainted, for the
shoals have not always beacons; the depths in this track are generally about 12, 13,
and 14 fathoms. Having passed Pulo Dapour on the south side, si)e must steer to tiie
E. S. Eastward for Edam, to enter Batavia Road l)y the great channel, leaving Edam
and Enkhuysen to the eastward, and Haerlem and Hoorn Islands to the westward.
When Edam Island is approached, the depths will be 10 or 11 fatlioms, and a course
152 BATAVIA CHANNELS.
about South should then be steered, to pass betwixt Hoorn and Enkhuysen ; when
clear of these ishinds, the dome of Batavia eliurch may be brought to bear S. ^ E., and
this bearing- continued will carry a ship betwixt Rynland Shoal and the Eastern Reefs
directly to the road, among the shipping.
Ships do not always pass to the northward of the Cambuys, when proceeding to
Batavia Road by the Great Channel, for some ships pass to the southward of them,
then steer to the eastward on the north sides of Middleburgh, Amsterdam, and Haer-
lem : the shoals which lie contiguous to this track are next the north side of Middle-
burgh, and to the N. Westward of that island ; in passing which a boat should be kept
a-head to sound, by those who are strangers to the channels.
\V range Rock, one of these dangers, has a cross, JNo. 19, on its west point, in 12 feet
water, Middleburgh south point bearing from it S. E. by E. A E., and Pulo Dapour
Betwixt the Great and Little Cambuys there is a safe passage, through which we
came in the Atlas ; having in running from Pulo Baby with the land-wind in the
night got too far from the Java shore, in soundings from 18 to 22 fathoms; we stood
along the north side of Great Cambuys in the morning, kept nearest to the little one
in passing between them, and had never less than 10 fathoms. The cross, No. 20, was
placed, in 18.32, on what is called Middle Rock by the Dutch.; the cross is in 12 feet
water, nearly mid-way between, and to the southward of these islands, from wiiich the
Little Cambuys bears N. E. by E. | E., Great Cambuys south point N.W. by W. | W.
There is a shoal of 2f fathoms least water, from which the Little Cambuys bears
N.W. i W., distant 2^ miles, and Edam Lsland just in sight, open to the northward
of Amsterdam and Middleburgh Islands in one.
Inner Channel. THE INNER CHANNEL, leading to Batavia, is called DUTCH CHANNEL,
being generally used by their ships ; and with proper care it is safe. To proceed
through it, a ship should pass between Maneater Island and the Great Cambuys,
which can only be done with safety in day-light, on account of the shoals stretching
from both these islands. Maneater Shoal projects about a mile to the north-west-
ward, and northward of the island of that name, and IJ miles to the north-eastward,
where the water shoals on the edge of it from 9 to 5 fathoms at a cast of the lead,
and then shoals gradually up to the shore. On this part there is sometimes a cross or
beacon, which is in one with the south point of the island bearing W. -^ S. Opposite
the extremity of Maneater Shoal, the passage is bounded on the outside by a reef pro-
jecting a considerable way westward from the west end of Great Cambuys. The cross
placed on the west extreme of this reef, in 14 feet water, in 1832, is No. 21 of the list,
from which Great Cambuys south point bears E. S. E. ^ S., Maneater Island east point
S.W. f W. A cross is sometimes seen on another shoal a little detached from the Reef
Cross to the westward. Shipsproceeding through any of these channels towards Batavia
should be careful to avoid the shoals, for the crosses or beacons are liable to be stolen
by fishermen, or washed away by the sea during the N.W. monsoon, and not replaced
for a great length of time. They are not very conspicuous, consisting only of a single
tree, with a small piece of wood in the form of a cross nailed on some of them.
The depths are 9 and 10 fathoms in the passage between Maneater Shoal and the
reef off Great Cambuys, and the best track, if no beacons are seen, is to borrow nearer
to the former island than to the latter. When past Maneater Island, a direct course
should be steered to pass to the southward of Middleburgh Island, bearing from it
BATAVIA CHANNELS. 153
about E. ^ S., 4 or i^ leagues ; the coast between them forms a bight, which is safe to
approach, the soundings decreasing regularly towards the Java shore; and nearly
in the middle of the bight there is a place of some trade, called Songy Lampoon.
From 9 to 10 fathoms are the common depths in passing through this part of the
channel.
Ontong Java Point, bounding the east side of the bight, is a sloping headland,
covered with trees, and surrounded by an extensive shoal or sand-bank, called Ontong
Java Reef, which extends a great way out towards the opposite islands. On the
northern extremity of the reef. No. 15 cross is fixed in 13 feet water, Haerlem Island
bearing from it East, and JVIiddleburgh west point ]N. by W., betwixt which and
Middleburgh Island is the channel, about half a mile broad, with regular soundings
from 8 to 10 fathoms. On the reef enclosing Middleburgh, two crosses are fixed,
both in 15 feet water. No. 16 and 17 of the list ; one of these stands on the S. E.
point, and the other on the S.W. point of the reef that projects a little way from the
island ; but these sea-marks being situated near the shore, are not conspicuous, nor
ought this reef to be described as very dangerous to those who keep a proper look-out.
Nearly West from Middleburgh there are some shoal patches bounding the north
side of the channel, one of which is distant l^ miles from the island, bearing West from
it : these patches are generally destitute of beacons ; but upon the centre of Mynderk
Shoal, which lies about 2 miles W. by N. from the west end of Middleburgh Island,
there is a cross placed in 12 feet water, Little Cambuys bearing from it N.W. ^ W., and
Pulo Dapour N. E. by E. ; this is No. 19 of the Dutch list.
To avoid these shoals, keep the flagstafi'of Middleburgh, or the south part of that
island, at least 3° to the northward of East, until tlie beacon is seen on the point of On-
tong Java Reef ; then steer to pass mid-way between it and Middleburgh. At low
water, the sea may be sometimes seen to break on Ontong Java Reef, close inside the
beacon, it being steep there, and also on the west side ; but on the eastern edge, oppo-
site Schiedam and Onrust, the water shoals regularly. Having passed between the
Islands Middleburgh and Amsterdam on one side, and Ontong Java Reef on the other,
steer to the southward for the Islands Schiedam and Onrust ; when abreast of Schie
dam, borrow towards Ontong Java Reef, and run to the southward along the edge of it
in 5 fathoms, until the passage between Onrust and Kuyper Island is fairly open, in
order to avoid a Rock or Knowl nearly in mid-channel, on which many ships have
grounded. This knowl is small,* w ith only 2^ fathoms on its shoalest part, 5^ and 5|
fathoms close to it on the west side, and 6 or 7 fathoms between it and Onrust.
There is frequently a buoy upon it, which is sometimes sunk, or taken away.
When upon the knowl, the piles of Onrust are on with the White House of
Kuyper Island ; when the piles are open a little with it either way, the knowl is
avoided.
There seem to be other shoal spots to the northward of this knowl, or between it
and Onrust, by the account of Captain Neish, of the Auspicious, which ship ■•■rounded
on one of them, March 2(jth, 1816, on her passage from Batavia towards England, with
Onrust and Kuyper Island in one; extremes of the former from S. S. E. ^ E. to
• This seems to be what is called Onrust Stoneby the Dutch, on which a cross, No. 10, is said to be fixed on
its west point, in 9 feet water, Rotterdam Island bearing from it N. N. E. ^ E., Kuyper Island S. E. by S.
Another danger, called Mathilda Rock, has a heacon, No. U, on its N. E. point in I'i feet water, from which the
S. W. point of Kuyper Island bears S. E., and the east point of Rotterdam N. E. J N. Onrust Reef has two
beacons.No. laonitswest point, and No. 13 on its N.W. point, both placed in 9 feet water,aud these points of the
reef bear N.W. from Kuyper Island ; this reef projects from the latter island to Onrust.
VOL. II. X
154 BATAVIA CHANNELS.
S. by W. ^ W., and Ontong Java Point W. by N. ^ N. When aground, had 5 fothoms
at the stern, and 3 fathoms at the fore-chains, ap|)arently a soft coral rock of small
extent, as the Ganges, drawing more water and sailing right a-head of the Auspicious
at the time, passed clear of it. Hove off with the stream anchor, and touched the
ground lightly twice after, by which Capt. Neish infers, that the passage between the
knowl and Onrust is not safe for large ships, and that the only safe channel is to the
westward, between the knowl and Ontong Java Reef.
As the depth decreases gradually on the edge of the flats to the eastward of Ontong
Java Point, this is the safe side of the channel when abreast of Schiedam, and a ship
may borrow, with care, to 4^ fathoms ; at all events, she must not deepen above
5 fathoms in passing the knowl to the north-westward of Onrust, or nntil the passage
between it and Kuyper Island is fairly open ; being then clear of the knowl, she must
haul over for Kuyper Island, and pass near it on the S.W. side ; a beacon, standing
on a shoal towards the Java shore, will then probably be perceived, which must be left
to the southward in passing.
It is said that the flat has considerably extended from Ontong Java to the eastward,
and that the depths in the Inner Channel have decreased, for the ship Good Success
had not more than 4 and 3f fathoms in mid-channel, at low water, in passing through ;
and in borrowing on the edge of Ontong Java flat, the Castlereagh grounded, January
1st, 1825, at 2 p.m., the east end of Amsterdam Island bearing N. f W., and Onrust
Island E. S. E. After heaving off the flat, she anchored in 4 fathoms, with Onrust
bearing S. E. by E., and the beacon on the Knob Shoal East.
Purmerant Island, situated to the eastward of Kuyper Island, has an extensive
rocky reef projecting from it nearly 1^ miles to the eastward, and about half a mile to
the southward ; on its east point there is a cross. No. 6, fixed in 13 feet water, Hoorn
Island, east point, bearing from it N. by E., and the Rotterdam N.W. On the S.W.
■ point of the same reef, cross No. 9 is placed in 9 feet water, the south point of Pur-
merant Island bearing from it North, and Kuyper Island W. N.W. ^ W. ; the sea
breaks on some parts of the reef at low water, or when there is much swell.
When a ship has rounded Kuyper Island, and no beacons are seen on Purmerant
Reef, nor on Rygersdaal Shoal adjacent to the main, she ought to steer a direct course
for the outer part of the shipping in Batavia Road, bearing about S.E. f E. from Kuyper
Island, distant 2 leagues. In passing along, one or two beacons may probably be dis-
cerned on shoal spots towards the Java shore, all of which must be left to the south-
ward ; and the depths will generally be from 7 to 5 liithoms, in the fair track. Cross
No. 5 is placed in 9 feet water, on the east point of Rygersdaal Shoal, Hoorn Island
bearing from it N. N. E. i E. and Kuyper Island N. N.W. When the road is
approached within 3 miles, a beacon to the eastward may be discerned on Rynland
Shoal ; this bears from Kuyper Island E. S. E. | S., and from the shipping in the road
about N. by W., not far distant, which may be left to the northward in standing into
the road ; and here, a ship should anchor in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, at discretion, offshore
about 2 miles, with the dome of the church from South to S. by W,
To sail into MIDDLE CHANNEL, through which we passed three times, in the Anna, is very
b5rThe Mw'dte safe, with deeper water than the Inner Channel. To sail into Batavia Road by it, pass
Channel. to the Southward of Middleburgh and Amsterdam, betwixt them and Ontong Java
Reef, as already directed ; having passed the latter island, instead of hauling to the
southward for the Inner Channel between the islands and the main, steer directly
eastward for the small Island Haerlem, leaving Schiedam to the southward. When
BATAVIA CHANNELS. 155
Haerlem is approaclied, edge away to the S. E., betwixt it and Rotterdam, and be-
twixt the latter and Hoorn, keeping nearest to Hoorn, on account of a reef contiguous
to the S. E. part of Rotterdam, on tiie centre of which No. 8 cross is phiced, in 1-5 feet
water, Hoorn South point bearing from it E. f S. and the west point of Onrust Kerk-
hof S. |- W. Having rounded the S.W. point of Hoorn Island pretty close, it is pru-
dent to steer S. Eastward until the dome of Batavia church is brought to bear S. ^ E.
or S. I; E., to give a good berth to Permerant Reef, already mentioned, which projects
a great way eastward from the island of that name, and bears about N. by W. ^ W.
from Batavia church. The N.W. part of Hoorn should not be too closely approached
in passing. There is a cross, No. 7, placed in 12 feet water on the centre of a ledge of
rocks near the N.W. part of that island, from which the north point of the island bears
E. ^ S., and Rotterdam W. i N.
After passing Hoorn, and having brought the dome of the church to bear between
S, -^ E. and South, steer direct for it, with either of these bearings, until you anchor in
the road ; by keeping the dome of Batavia church S. ^ E., it will lead mid-way be-
tween Rynland Shoal and the eastern Reefs. The soundings throughout this channel,
after passing Amsterdam Island, are generally 9, 10, and 11 fathoms, until the depths
decrease I'egularly near the road.
THE EASTERN CHANNELS, leading to or from Batavia Road, are also safe and Easte™^
convenient. We passed through that formed between Edam, the outermost island,
and Alkmaar, the next island to the southward, in regular soundings, 9, 10. and 1 1
fathoms ; and at two other times we passed in the Anna, through the Leyden Channel,
leaving the island of that name to the southward, and Alkmaar and Enkhuysen Islands
to the northward, in 10 and 11 fathoms regular soundings. The channel inside of
Leyden is safe, if a ship keep near the island, to avoid the reefs between it and the
main. One of these, about mid- way between Leyden and the Java shore, was for-
merly an island with trees on it, called Vader Smith ; but during the last 50 years,
only a reef under water remains in its place, on the N. E. point of which, cross No. 1
is placed in 9 feet water, Leyden Island bearing from it N. N.W. ^ W., and beacon
No. 2, W. i S. To clear Vader Smith Shoal, a large white house with a red top,
bearing S. S.W., will carry a ship into 7 or 8 fathoms in the road.
The shoals nearest to Batavia Road, and most in the way of ships approaching it shoais adjacent
from the northward, are Rynland Shoal and the Eastern Reefs ; the latter may be con- Roar""
sidered as the western extremity of that called Vader Smith, being separated from it
only by a small channel.
The Eastern Reefs are composed of rocks and sand, partly dry at low water spring
tides, but there is no break upon them at high water, when the sea is smooth. 1 he
northernmost patch of the Eastern Reefs, bearing from Rynland Shoal E. N. E. ^ N.,
distant about If miles, is called Neptune Shoal by the Dutch, upon the N.W. point
of which a cross. No. 2, was placed in 12 feet water in 18.32, Leyden Island bearing
from it N. E. | N., as stated above, and the east point of Hoorn Island N. N.W. f W.
The westernmost patch of these Eastern Reefs bears S. S.W. ^ W. from Neptune
Shoal nearly 1 mile, and E. i S. from Rynland Shoal 1^ miles; it is called Pas Op
by the Dutch, and Middle Reef by Mr. R. Wise in his plan of Batavia Bay. The
cross beacon upon it, No. .3 of the list, is in 12 feet water, visible from liatavia Road,
and bears N. E. I N. when on with the body of Leyden Island, or nearly in the transit
line of the Neptune Shoal ; and Floorn Island bears from it N. N.W. ^ W. About a
quarter of a mile N. by E. from the last-mentioned reef, and a little to the westward of
X 2
156 BATAVIA.
a transit line joining it and Neptune Shoal, there is a small rocky patch, marked by
Mr. Wise on his plan of Batavia Bay, which seems not to have been previously known.
All ships pass to the westward of these beacons, there being no safe channel to the
eastward, for a large vessel, between them and Vader Smith shoal.
Rynland Shoal is rocky, with only 10 feet water on it, and is of round form, about
the length of a large ship in diameter. It bears N. by W. from the shipping in the
road, distant about a mile, also N. by W. or N. | W. from Batavia church ; although
directly fronting the road, it is at times destitute of a beacon ; this was the case twice
when we were at Batavia, in the Anna. In 1793, a floating beacon, framed of several
pieces of timber, and more conspicuous than any of the other beacons, was placed on
this shoal. Ships generally pass inside of Rynland Shoal, when they sail through the
Inner, or Onrust Channel ; but ships sailing to or from the road by any of the northern
channels usually pass between it and the beacons on the Eastern Reefs, which pas-
sage is safe, witli the dome of Batavia church bearing from South to S. |^ E. ; or this
dome kept S. ^ E. is the best bearing for sailing to or from the road, betwixt these
shoals, as mentioned in the directions for approaching Batavia by the outer and middle
channels. In 18.32, the beacon No. 4 of the Dutch list was placed in 12 feet water
on the east point of Rynland Shoal, Hoorn Island bearing from it N. by W. | VV., and
Kuyper Island N. by W. 4 W.
Batavia. BATAVIA OBSERVATORY is in lat. (f9' S., Ion. 106° 51|' E., by astronomical
observations made by Johan Mauritz Mohr, and this longitude is considered to be
very correct. By mean of observation of sun and stars on both sides the moon, taken
Position. in three different voyages, I made Batavia in Ion. 106° 54|^' E. ; but that of the Dutch
astronomer, stated above, is probably nearest the truth. Captain Ashmore, in Octo-
ber, 1822, made it in Ion. 106° 51' 45" E. by one chronometer, and 106° 52' 13" E.
by another. H. M.'s S. Curacoa sailed from Bombay May 1st, 1833, and on
June 1st, at anchor in Batavia Road, by two chronometers agreeing within 1 mile,
made the dome of the church 33° 57' East of Bombay Castle, or Ion. 106° 51|' E.
Supplies. Here, a shij) may procure all kinds of necessary supplies ; poultry, excellent fruits,
and vegetables, are plentiful, and sold at moderate prices. The city is spacious, and
many of the houses well built; but the low marshy coast around the bay, and the stag-
nant water in the canals, which intersect the streets, generate noxious vapours, ren-
dering this place very unhealthy at all times to strangers. The most unhealthy time
is when the canals have lost much of their waters, about the latter part of the dry
season, from September to December. Strangers ought never to sleep on shore, if it
can be avoided.*
A few miles inland from Batavia, towards the hills, the country is healthy ; and the
Europeans who reside there differ much in appearance from those who inhabit the
city, for the latter are in general sickly and emaciated.
Tiadf. Batavia is a place of considerable trade, but all foreign ships must obtain permission
from the Shahbundar before they can trade with private merchants. The principal
exports are sugar, coffee, spices, &c. The imports, opium, iron, and piece-goods, of
various kinds.
Fronting the small river or canal that leads to the city there is a bar, of hard bottom,
* A tea-spoon full of red bark taken in a glass of port wine, or other cordial, at rising in the morning, has
been thought an excellent preventive against the damp vapours, -which occasion the Batavia fever. I gene-
rally used some preventive of this kind, and never slept on shore, during four voyages to this place, and
always escaped the fever, which proves fatal to thousands.
FROM BATAVIA TO BANCA.
157
.g, strong in the i\ . W . monsoon
the river, for some small boats have
mixed with mud, a little way out, on which there is about 2 or 3 feet at low water.
The channel for boats to enter the river is to the eastward of the bar, and there is at
times a surf upon it at low water, when blowing strong; in the N.W
strangers ought not then to send their boats to
been overset upon the bar, and the people devoured by the crocodiles, which are here
of large size, and very numerous.*
Ships seldom moor in the road, for the anchors are generally buried in the soft mud; Anchorage.
small vessels anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms, about a mile off shore ; and large ships in 5
or 6 fathoms, about 1^ or 2 miles off, with the dome of the church from S. to S. by W.
If a ship ground on the main, no danger is to be apprehended, the mud flat being very
soft ; and the rise and fall of tide is not more than 6 feet on the springs. There is
little or no variation at present in the road to Batavia, or in the seas adjacent.
The small island Edam, the outermost of those opposite to Batavia, is in lat. 5° 57'
S., and bears from Batavia Observatory N. 10° E. ; there is a flagstaff upon it, and,
like most of the other islands, it is clothed with trees. Hoorn Island bears from the
road N. by W. ; Onrust is the great marine depot, where ships are hove down by
cranes erected upon the wharfs, when they require repairs ; and this small island,
being the naval arsenal and dock-yard, abounds with inhabitants.
The N.W. monsoon generally sets in at Batavia and along the coast of Java about
the beginning of November, and the subsequent strong winds and heavy rains
greatly cool the atmosphere.
Islands front-
ing the Road.
FROM BATAVIA AND SUNDA STRAIT TO THE STRAIT
OF BANCA.
DEPARTING from BATAVIA, and bound to Banca Strait, a ship should steer To sail from
out of the road with the dome of the church S. f E. or S. ^ E., which will carry her B=«»^'ia «'"''•
between the Rynland Shoal and Eastern Reefs : from thence, with the dome of the
church from South to S. ^ E., she may continue to steer to the northward, through the
Great, or Edam Channel, leaving the Islands Hoorn, Monnikendam, and Haeilem, to
the westward ; and Enkhuysen, Edam, and the other islands, to the eastward. From
Edam, she ought to steer for the South Watcher, or Zuyder Watcher, a small southwatcher.
island, in lat. .5° 41' S., and 8^ miles West from Batavia, by chronometer, bearing
about N. W. by N. from Edam, distant 19 miles ; it is covered with trees, and may be
seen at the distance of 6 leagues : when it is approached within 3 leagues, it should
be brought to bear to the northward of N. W., to avoid a small doubtful shoal, called
by the Dutch Nasomver Droogte, situated about 2 leagues S. Eastward from the
island. Having passed on either side the South Watcher, at 2 or 2^ miles' distance,
a course may be steered to the North and N. N.W. for the North Watcher, giving the
easternmost of the Thousand Islands a berth of 3 or 4 leagues.
* A jetty, or wooden pier, has lately been carried out from the canal over the bar.
158
FROM BATAVIA TO BANCA. — ISLANDS AND DANGERS.
Thousand
Islands.
THE THOUSAND ISLANDS consist of numerous small islands ; their greatest
extent is nearly N.W. and S. E., and they bound the west side of the passage betwixt
the South and North Watcher. The northernmost island is said to be in about lat.
5° 32' S., and as the southernmost islands, to the westward of the South Watcher,
have shoals surrounding them, it is prudent to give a berth of at least 2 or 3 leagues
to them in passing. The westernmost isle is considerably detached from the otiiers,
and called Pulo Estam, or West Island. Although near to Batavia, these islands
seem never to have been sufficiently explored, nor was a safe passage known to exist
among them, until Lieutenant J. Harding, of the Royal Navy, July I9th, 1830, dis-
covered a safe channel between several of the westernmost of these islands, and the
large group to the eastward. The northernmost islands appeared to be about in lat.
6° 35' S. by estimation, which is farther South than is marked on the charts. With
the wind at E. N. E. at 3^ p.m., perceiving a wide opening in the Thousand Islands,
hauled to the S.W., the North Watcher then bearing N.W. by N., and steered through
a safe channel about 5 miles wide, leaving four isles, including Pulo Estam, to the west-
ward, and the dense group of the islands to the eastward, the ship in soundings of 16 to
20 fathoms. When in the channel in 16f fathoms, Pulo Estam, or West Island, bore
W. i S., nearest isle to it W. i N., an isle N. by W., another isle N. by E., North
Watcher N. f W., an isle E. by N. ^ N., being the northernmost of the dense body
of the Thousand Islands, which to the southward of it appeared to be composed of a
continuous chain. From this position steered S.W. for Pulo Baby, and the passage
seemed to be perfectly safe. In sailing betwixt the North and South Watchers, care
is also requisite to avoid the following shoals, to the eastward of the passage, their
situations not being very correctly known.
Urewer's
Droogte.
Moolenwerf.
I'ruysen's
Droogte.
BREWER'S DROOGTE, the southernmost of these shoals, is said to be a sand
above water, thought to lie in about lat. 5° 22' S., nearly on the meridian of Edam,
and in a N. Easterly direction from the South Watcher. Moolenwerf, another
shoal, thought to be 3^ or 4 leagues to the northward of Brewer's Droogte, is pro-
bably the danger seen by the Araiiella in 1715, which she made in lat. 5° 11' S.
Pruysen's Droogte, said to be dry at low water, and situated 4^ or 5 leagues to the
W. N.W. of Brewer's Droogte, may be passed on either side, the depths between
them being from 15 to 20 fathoms, and between Pruysen's Droogte and the Thousand
Islands to the westward, from 15 to 22 fathoms.
One of these shoals was seen by the Elphinstone, August 27th, 1812. At 8 a.m.
the South Watcher bore S. 24° W., distant 5 or 6 leagues ; steered N. N. E. 9 miles till
noon, vvhen breakers, supposed to be on the Pruysen's Droogte, bore N. 48° W.,
about 6 miles, but no part of it visible above water. When the breakers on the shoal
bore E. 8°S., distant 3 miles, the Alnwick Castle, August 27th, 1812, observed at
noon in lat. 5° 17' S., Ion. 106° 53' E., by chronometers from Batavia. Scaleby
Castle, May 22nd, 1815, at 9 a.m., when Pruysen's Droogte bore West 1^ miles, had
soundings 12^ fathoms. At half-past 10 a.m., one of the Thousand Islands in sight
from the mast-head bearing S.W. ^ S. At noon observed lat. 5° 10' S., Pruysen's
Droogte bearing W. 12° N., distant 5 or (J miles. The shoal seen by these three
ships appears to be one and the same, or that called Pruysen's Droogte, situated by
their observations in lat. 5° 17' S., and bearing from the South Watcher N. 10° E.,
distant 25 miles.*
* The Duke of Dorset, May 20th, 1715, sent her boat to sound near the rock, stated in the journal to bear
about N. E. from the South Watcher, distant supposed about 2 leagues, and it was found to be a little above
FROM BATAVIA TO BANCA. ISLANDS AND DANGERS. 159
ARMUYDEN BANK, in lat. /)° 13' S., and bearing from the North Watcher Armuyde..
E. ^ S., distant 5 or 5^ leagues, is an island or bank, consisting of loose coral, elevated
10 feet above the sea, and about a mile in circuit, surrounded by a reef of rocks,
according to an examination made of it by H. M.'s S. Psyche, in 1812, when her
boats landed there; and from its highest part, the North Watcher was just visible,
bearing W. | N. This bank abounds with birds' eggs in some seasons ; the sound-
ings within 1 or 2 cables' lengths of it are 9 and 10 fathoms, and from 10 to 14
fathoms in the channel between it and the North Watcher.
When the Armuyden Bank bore E. by N. ^ N., distant 3 miles, the Wycombe saw
another sand-bank Ijearing S. S. E. ; the Dutch place also a shoal miles to the S.W.
of the North Watcher, but probably some of these are doubtful. Those which really
exist are not discernible above 5 miles from a ship's deck in a clear day.
THE NORTH WATCHER, a small island, covered with trees, discernible at 6 North
or 7 leagues' distance, lies in lat. 5° 12^' S., Ion. 106° 32' E., or 19f miles West from ^^«'^''^'^-
Batavia by chronometer, and may be passed on the east or west sides, at 2 or 3 miles'
distance: about a mile from its west side the soundings are regular from IH to 12j
fathoms ; but a coral reef, with only 6 feet water in some parts, stretches round the
south end of the island to the distance of about half a mile, with a rock in one place
above water.
OMEGA SHOAL is composed of coral, steep to its verge, about 60 or 70 yards in omegaShoai.
breadth, and extending about N. N. E. and S.S.W. 150 to 200 yards, having on it
from 10 to 13 feet water: this dangerous shoal bears about E. by S. from the North
Watcher, distant l^ miles, and ought to have a wide berth in passing on the east side
of that island, from which it is sejjarated by a small channel of 1 1 and 12 fatiioms
water. This shoal was discovered by the American ship Omega, Captain Russell,
from Canton, bound to New York, by grounding on it, March 1st, 1835, where she
lay 25 hours, beat off the rudder, and received other damage: — she got ofttiie shoal
by throwing out cargo, value about 15,000 dollars, but was obliged to be hove down
at Onrust for repairsin her bottom.
From the South Watcher, if the wind be easterly, steer about North, giving a wide Tosaiiivom
berth to the Thousand Islands, and afterwards pass to the eastward of the Armuyden watcher to-
Bank and North Watcher. Having got into about lat. 5° S., or being clear of the """j^ ^anca
Strait
North Watcher and adjacent shoals, steer for Lucepara, at the entrance of Banca
Strait, bearing from the North Watcher N. by W., distant 40 or 41 leagues. If the
wind incline to S.W. and West, steer more westerly, borrowing towards the banks,
which project from the Sumatra coast to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms ; but these ought not
to be approached under 8 or 9 fathoms, particularly in the night.
The soundings in this track, however, are not always a sufficient guide, the depths
varying from 13 to 10, or 9 fathoms, in a direct line between the North \\ atcher and
Banca Strait, and being nearly the same in the track between that island and Gasper
Strait. In lat. 3^ 45' S., there is a Five Fathoms Bank, distant about 11 leagues from
; the Sumatra coast, which might be mistaken for the shore bank, were a ship to get
I upon it in the night. As the soundings are not a sufficient guide, it may be prudent
I water, not half a ship's length in extent, having close to it 13 fathoms water. This must be a different shoal
I from tiiat described above, or its distance estimated from the South Watcher, in tiie Duke of Dorset's jour-
I nal, is erroneous. •
160
FROM SUNDA TO BANCA STRAIT. — ISLANDS AND DANGERS.
North Island.
Tlirce Sisteif,
and adjacent
coast.
to keep well to the westward in day-light, and get a sight of the Sumatra coast at
times, edging out in the night as circumstances require.
NORTH ISLAND, in lat. 5° 41' S., Ion. 105° 49' E., or 1° 2^' West from Batavia
by chronometer, and about a mile or more from the Sumatra shore, is small, of an
even aspect, and may be seen about 7 or 8 leagues. Off its south point there is a
small islet, with a spit projecting a little way, which must have a berth in passing;
and with the body of this island bearing N.W. about three-quarters of a mile, the
Royal Charlotte grounded on a knowl, January 18th, 1813, with .3^ fathoms water on
it, and from 4j to 5 fathoms close to it on both sides. This island is on the meridian
of the west part of Thwart-the-way, and is distant about 10 miles N. 16° E. from the
highest of the Zutphen Islands.
THE THREE SISTERS are three small islands near the Sumatra shore, about a
league to the S. S. Westward of North Island ; there are two white cliffs on the low
coast between them, with a watering place upon the main, a little to the southward of
the southernmost White Cliff, where ships sometimes used to fill up their water in the
westerly monsoon, particularly those bound from China to Europe, by Banca Strait ;
fire-wood may also be procured. The coast between North Island and the Sisters forms
a bay, where ships in want of water used to anchor in 8, 10, to 12 fathoms, a little to
the northward of the North Sister, with North Island bearing about N. by E. or N.by
E. ^ E., off the main 1^ or 2 miles. The best position, however, for obtaining a speedy
supply of water, is in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud, abreast the middle of the opening between
the South and North Sisters ; for the best watering place being abreast of the latter,
close to the southernmost White Cliff, the boats will make two trips here, for one that
they could accomplish at the place where ships commonly anchor, as the tide runs
chiefly to the southward in this season.
Amongst the Sisters, the depths are from 2 to 3 fathoms, and the coast of this bay is
generally lined by a shoal mud Hat. About a mile from the North Sister, with the
north end of it bearing W. S. W., the water shoals from 12 to 6 fathoms at one cast of
the lead, in standing to the southward ; and when the north end of the North Sister is
on with the White Bluff Cliff, bearing about W. ^ N., there are overfalls from 13 to 7
fathoms. There is an islet near the main, about 2 miles southward from the Sisters.
Two Bioiiicrs. THE TWO BROTHERS are two small islands near each other, about leagues
from the Sumatra coast, covered witii trees, and similar in appearance ; they may be
seen 6 or 7 leagues, and are in one bearing N. by E. and S. by W., having at each
end a reef projecting to a small distance, and lining their east and west sides; but they
may be approached on the west side occasionally within half a mile, in soundings of
10 or 1 1 fathoms. These islands are also united by a reef, said to be nearly dry at low
water spring tides. The northern island is in lat. 5° f)|' S., Ion. 100° 5' E., or 47 miles
West of Batavia, by chronometer, bearing from North Island N. N. E. | E. nearly 12
leagues, and from the North Watcher W.^^N. about 27 miles.
From siinda SHIPS having passcd through Sunda Strait, either between Thwart-the-way and
ATO'Brothers ^^^ Zutphcu Islands, or by the channel betwixt Java and the Button, should steer from
these islands, or from the Button, a direct course for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banca
Strait. The depths will soon decrease in steering to the northward, and after passing
FROM SUNDA TO BANCA STRAIT. — DANGERS. 161
North Island, 11 or 12 fathoms are good depths to preserve, particularly with a westerly
wind ; for it is prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the Sumatra coast, to
avoid several dangers in the offing. With a working wind, a good mark in day-light,
when standing towards the main, is to tack when North Island and the High Zutphen
Island are in one ; the depth will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and a large ship
ought not to go under these depths, in working betwixt North Island and the Two Bro-
thers. The latter may be j)assed on either side within a few miles, to avoid the adjacent
shoals, some of which are very dangerous.
SHAHBUNDAR SHOAL, named from a Dutch ship that narrowly escaped being simhbundar
lost on it, lies about 7 miles West of the Brothers ; it is extensive, and is formed of ^''°^'
various patches, and seems to be the outer extremity of the shoal bank that projects
along and far out from this part of the Sumatra coast. The French ship Jupiter,
returning from China, grounded, and had part of her keel broken ofi' upon this shoal.
The Sandwich grounded on one of the patches, returning from China in January,
1749, by borrowing too near the coast ; when aground in 17 feet water, the northern-
most part of Sumatra in sight bore N. by W., the southernmost part S.W. by W. ^ W.,
and the North Brother E. N. E. Easterly, distant about 3 leagues. She struck very hard,
and after being lightened by starting the water, and throwing some lumber overboard,
she was forced over the shoal by a brisk wind, after grounding three times on the
different patches. As the depths decrease gradually towards this shoal, the lead, if
attended to, will indicate its proximity ; and a ship passing between it and the Bro-
thers should keep within 1, 2, or, at most, 3 miles of the latter, taking care not to
borrow under 9 fathoms towards the coast, which in day-light may be kept in sight,
if the weather be clear. The only high land near the shore on this part of the Sumatra
coast is a sloping hill, with a knob on its summit, in lat. 5° 20' S., generally called
Knob Hill.*
THE DANGERS to be avoided by ships steering a direct course between Sunda Dangers.
Strait and the North Watcher, or in sailing between this island and the Brothers, are
the following : —
'»
JASON ROCK, on which the ship of this name struck in 1742, is said to lie Jason Rock.
W.N.W., 2 leagues from the westernmost isle of the Thousand Islands, and 6 leagues
S. Westward from the North Watcher; but the Warren Hastings' boat could not find it
in this position. This rock is not laid down in some Dutch charts, which have a shoal
placed on them about miles S.W. from the North Watcher; its true position seems,
therefore, very imperfectly known.
DOLPHIN ROCK, or SHOAL, where the ship of this name was aground, is Dolphin Rock,
said to be nearly even with the water's edge, and lying about 2 leagues S.S. E. from
the south end of the Two Brothers: but the true place of this shoal seems likewise
not correctly determined.
LYNN SHOAL is about a cable's length in extent. North and South, having only LynnShoai.
2 feet coral rocks on it in some places, and from 14 to 9 fathoms around. When the
ship Lynn was aground on it in 1748, the Two Brothers bore from W. by N.f N. to
* Not very conspicuous in some views.
VOL. II. Y
162
FROM SUN DA TO BANCA STRAIT.
IJroUMer
Shoals.
N. W. by W. ^ W., distant about 3 leagues. The Bridgewater's boat examined this
shoal, and found it to bear from the South Brother E. S. E., distant 8 or 9 miles. Capt.
Waterman saw this shoal in the ship Volunteer, July 29th, 1813, when blowing strong
with a considerable sea; yet the breakers on it were not high, nor will it be visible when
the sea is sniootli. When the South Brother and it were in one, they bore W. by N. ^ N.,
the North Watcher E. ^ S., then distant from the shoal three-quarters of a mile.
The Company's ship General Hewitt grounded on this shoal at 9^ p.m. August 5th,
1820, and did not get oft" till 9 a.m. next morning : when she first struck, 2 feet water
was found on the shoal, but a considerable part of it was dry at low water about 6 a.m. ;
and it was found to be nearly a cable's length in extent, composed of hard clay, broken
coral, with some small rocks on the northern extremity : the soundings close to it all
round are from 10 to 15 fathoms. When aground upon the shoal, the North Brother
bore W. 20° N., South Brother W. 13° N., and the North Watcher E. 5° S.
BROUWER SHOALS, in lat. 5° 5' S., are composed of two coral reefs, separated
about a quarter of a mile, with a dry patch of sand and coral on each, which are in one
bearing, N. 17° E., and opposite. They are distant from the Two Brothers 10 or 12
miles, the north end of the shoal bearing from the North Brother N. 64° E., and the
southern extremity bears N. 63° E. from the South Brother. From the North
Watcher, the north part of the shoal bears N. 52° W., and the southern dry patch
bears N. 55° W. from the same island. The length of this shoal is about a mile, and
its breadtli a quarter of a mile ; in the swatch betwixt the dry patches there are irre-
gular soundings, from 4| to 15 fathoms ; and hard ground stretches out from the north
and south ends of the shoal. To the eastward and westward of the shoal, at a small
distance, the bottom is soft, and the depths, about 1 or 1^ miles to the eastward of it,
are generally 14^ and 15 fathoms regular soundings.
Captain Montgomery Hamilton, of the Dunira, April 23rd, 1819, sent a boat with
an officer to the shoal, and when on the south-west patch, the North Watcher bore
S. E. by E., North Brother W. by S. ^ S., South Brother W. by S. | S. ; which ap-
peared to make that part of the shoal to bear N.69° E., about 15 miles from the South
Brother, and N. 54° W., about 13 or 13i miles from the North Watcher.
To avoid the Brouwer and Lynn siioals on the east side, a ship should keep nearer
to the North Watcher than to the Two Brothers ; or within 2 or 3 miles of the latter,
if she intends to pass to the westward of these shoals. To avoid the Dolphin Rock,
passing between it and the Two Brothers, she should not bring these islands to the
westward of North.
Sumatra coast,
from tlie Two
Brotliers to
Lucepara.
THE SUMATRA COAST, between the Two Brothers and Lucepara Island, at
the entrance of Banca Strait, is low land, clothed with trees ; several rivers in this
space fall into the sea, and shoal banks project 2 or 3 leagues from the land, in some
places. The most considerable of these rivers, called Tollongbouang, in about lat.
4° 23' S., is fronted by an extensive bank, with very shoal water on it, stretching nearly
3 leagues off", and several miles parallel to the coast.
Farther North, in about lat. 4° S., another extensive bank projects to a greater
distance from the coast than the former, with various shoal soundings on it, and several
dry patches. This is generally called the Bank or Shoals off Tree Island, being
situated to the eastward and south-eastward of a point of land, having tall trees on it,
which is thought to be separated from the main by a small channel, and therefore
called Tree Island. About 7 leagues E. N. E. from Tree Island Bank, and 10 or 11
FROM SUNDA TO BANCA STRAIT.
163
leagues to the S. S. E. of Lucepara, in about lat. 3° 45' S., there is a banii, already
mentioned, with 5 or 4^ fathoms on it, or probably less water in some parts, which
several ships have mistaken for the former : this outer bank consists of fine grey sand,
and the edge of Tree Island Bank, of coarse sand and gravel. The depths betwixt
these banks are generally from 9 to 11 fathoms ; but great care is requisite when sailing
hereabout in the night, as several ships, by borrowing too close to the coast after com-
ing through Banca Strait, have grounded on Tree Island Bank, and were in great
danger.
LUCEPARA ISLAND, about a mile in extent North and South, situated at the Lucepa^
southern entrance of Banca Strait, is in lat. 3° 13' S., Ion. 100° iO' E., or 5* miles ^^''""'•
East, by chronometer, from the Two Brothers, bearing from them N. 2°E., distant 39
leagues. It is covered with tall trees, having a small peak on it at one part, and a
little rising at the other end, when viewed from the south-eastward, and may be seen
about 5^ leagues from the deck.
A reef projects from the island 2 miles to the S. S. E., and shoal spits of sand ex-
tend 4 leagues to the N.W. and N. N. Westward ; a reef also lines the north and east
sides to one-third of a mile distance, with 3 fathoms close to it, from whence the depths
increase gradually to the north-east and eastward, but there are or 7 fathoms within
three-quarters of a mile of its south-western side. January 4th, 1813, the Discovery an-
chored in (ji fathoms blue mud, with the island bearing S. W. |- S., distant H miles, and
Captain Ross landed on a sandy beach, on the east side, a little way to the southward of a
projecting rock with a tree on it. No fresh water was found, nor could any turtle be
procured, although people were stationed on the beach at night ; but the island
abounded with green and cream-coloured pigeons, of which 46 were shot.
Captain Torin, of the Coutts, sent his boat in 1798 to the south-west side of the
island, w here a fine spring of fresh water was seen, which appeared to be frequented,
probably by the Malay proas.
A ship bound to Banca Strait, having approached the Two Brothers bearing to the From the r«o
eastward of North, should pass near them on the west side, if the wind be favourable: Brothers to
!• I 1 TV7 1 1-1 TVT 1 T-1 1 1-1 /• 1 1 • Banca Strait.
from thence, she may steer N. ^ L. to N. by E. ^ E. tor Lucepara, endeavouring to
keep in soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms, as a direct course cannot be depended upon
on account of irregular currents, or tides setting out from the rivers. Neither can the
soundings in this tract be implicitly trusted to, being irregular, from 8j to 1 1 or 12
fathoms in some places, particularly contiguous to Tree Island Bank, and the edges of
the other banks projecting from the coast of Sumatra ; also in the vicinity of the 4^ or
5 fathoms bank in the offing. It is, however, prudent, to borrow towards the main, if
the depths increase to 12 or 13 fathoms ; and to haul oft' from it, if they decrease to
8^ or 9 fathoms towards the banks tiiat line the coast. Near these, the soundings
are generally hard and more irregular than farther out from tlie land in 12 and 13
fathoms ; but in the latter depths a ship will be too far oft" the coast with a westerly
wind.
When the weather is very clear, during the day, it may be proper to get a sight of
the coast from the poop deck of a large ship, at times, edging out occasionally in the
night, or when the depths decrease to 8^ or 9 fathoms.
* Captain Lestock Wilson made the difference of longitude 5 miles, by excellent chronometers, which is
probably near the truth. Captain Ross, in his survey of the shoals to the northward of Lucepara, made this
island in lat. 3" 131^' S., by observations taken on it, and in Ion. 106° 12' E., or 42^ miles West of lintrance Point,
at the S. E. part ol' Banca, by chronometers.
Y 2
164
BANCA STRAIT.
Having passed the bank off Tree Island, the coast may be approached with greater
safety, and the depths will decrease regularly steering to the northward for Lucepara,
to of fathoms when it bears N. ^ E., distant about 3 or 3^ leagues. The south-west
point of Banca, in lat. 3° G' S., is fronted by extensive banks and overfalls, some of
them distant 4 or 5 leagues to the South and S.S. Westward, with soundings of 9 to
14 fathoms between them. Ships steering from the Two Brothers, to give a wide berth
to the banks adjoining the Sumatra coast, by keeping in 12 and 13 fathoms, are liable
to fall in with the banks wliich front the south end of Banca ; which banks, although
not considered dangerous, 7 or 8 fathoms may be got upon them when the land is visible
to the northward, distant 7 or 8 leagues, but the coast of Sumatra will not then be
discernible ; in such case they must haul to the westward to round Lucepara, the chan-
nel betwixt it and Banca not being safe, except for small vessels. There may, however,
be a safe channel to the eastward of Lucepara, near the Banca shore, for Commodore
Watson passed to the eastward of the island Lucepara during the night, in the Re-
venge, and had never less than 5^ fathoms water ; but Captain Ross, in his late exa-
mination of this place, found several siioal spits separated by gaps of deep water ; and
he is of opinion, that no large ship ought to attempt the passage between Lucepara
and Banca, for she would probably ground upon some of the shoal spits with 1,} to 3
fathoms water, extending 5^ leagues North of Lucepara, and having from 7 to 10
fathoms water close to them.
If a ship, sailing in the night between the Two Brothers and Banca Strait, should
get into shoal water, or be uncertain of her position, it will be prudent to anchor imme-
diately and wait for day-light ; for the depths are moderate, and the bottom through-
out this track generally favourable for that purpose.
BANCA STRAIT.
Banca Strait. BANCA STRAIT, boundcd by Banca Island on the East, and by the coast of
Sumatra on the west side, extends from Lucepara Island about 34 leagues, with an
undulating course to the north-westward. The Sumatra coast being low marshy land,
inundated at high water, and only the trees discernible, navigators are liable to estimate
their distance from it greater than the truth ; but it ought not to be approached too close
on account of a shoal mud bank, which extends in some places 2 or 3 miles from the
shore. Many ships have grounded upon this mud bank, adjoining the coast, and got
off with great difficulty, sometimes with loss of anchors and other damage.
Banca Island. The Island of Bauca is more elevated than the Sumatra coast, having a chain of hills,
generally called St. Paul Mountains, contiguous to its south end ; but Parmasang and
Monopin Hills, on the west side the island, are more conspicuous. Exclusive of the
dangers between Lucepara and Banca, Pulo Laboang Dapper, bearing from Lucepara
E. N. E., is a small island situated near the Banca shore.
Tides. THE TIDES in Banca Strait are very irregular, and influenced greatly by the
prevailing winds: in favourable weather the flood runs in at both ends of the strait, to
the Nanka Islands, nearly in the middle of it, where they meet. During the westerly
BANCA STRAIT. — DANGERS. 165
monsoon, when rains prevail, the freshes set out of the rivers on the Sumatra coast to-
wards the opposite side ; these should be guarded against in the night.
There are, sometimes, two floods and two ebbs in 24 hours ; at other times, only one
flood and one ebb during the same interval. When strong south-easterly winds pre-
vail, the flood runs strong into the southern part of the strait, frecfuently for 14 or 16
hours ; and the ebb in the opposite direction for 8 or 10 hours. During the opposite
season, particularly in December and January, when north-westerly and northerly
winds predominate, the ebb, or rather current, sometimes runs strongout of the south-
ern part of the strait for 12, 14, and even 18 hours ; and during the remainder of the
24 hours there is only a slack or weak indraught, when the water rises over the ground.
In this season it is almost impossible for an indifferently sailing ship to get through the
strait to the northward.
In August, and also in other months, the flood has been experienced at times to run
in about 12 hours, and the ebb out of the strait the same length of time, taking a turn
all round the compass during their change. The velocity of spring tides is sometimes
from 3 to 4 miles per hour, when the wind is strong ; and the perpendicular rise, from
9 to 12* feet, both within the strait and to the southward of Lucepara. In the chan-
nel, between this island and Sumatra, where the bottom is soft over an extensive flat,
the rise and fall of tide has seldom been found more than 9 or 10 feet; notwithstand-
ing, the water is so shoal there that large ships deeply laden are liable to touch the
ground at low water.
THE WESTERN CHANNEL, formed between the Island Lucepara and a low weste™
green point on the Sumatra coast opposite, called Lucepara Point, is the usual passage Channel.
of vessels proceeding through Banca Strait. In this channel, and to the distance of 3
leagues southward from Lucepara, the water is shoal on an extensive flat, the depths
on which are generally from 4^ to 4f fathoms to 5 and 5j fathoms. The west side of
the channel is bounded by a mud flat, projecting 2 or 3 miles in some places from the
coast ; and on the east side, several dangerous spits or shoals lie to the North and
north-westward of Lucepara, which greatly contract the channel. The distance from
the island to the coast is about 3 leagues or more, but the fair channel for ships is not
more than 2 or 2^ miles wide in some places, particularly to the north-west of Luce-
para, where the shoals in the ofiing approach nearest to the mud flat that fronts the
coast. Navigators, if unacquainted, should send a boat a-head to sound in this part of caution.
the strait, keeping in 4 and 4^ fathoms on the edge of the flat that bounds the Sumatra
coast : or such boat may sound occasionally on the edge of the westernmost shoals in
the ofiing, as circumstances require.
In passing through the channel, the bottom w ill generally, though not alw ays, be hard
sand, if a ship draw near the shoals adjacent to Lucepara, and usually soft mud on the
edge of the flat bounding the wes^t side of the channel. Although close to the edge of
the north-westernmost Lucepara Shoal, there are !ih and G fathoms, soft ground, yet it is
generally hard on the edges of these shoals ; a ship ought, therefore, to keep in soimd-
ings, if possible, neither hard nor very soft, to preserve the mid-channel tiack.
The shoals to the north-westward and northward of Lucepara, that bound the chan- shoais on the
nel on the east side, are mostly long narrow spits, extending N.N.W. and N.W. from channel! "^""
that island ; excepting around dangerous bank, with 2^ to H fathoms on it, near the
southern edge of the extensive narrow spit that lines the east side of the channel. The
* It has been stated, that the tides in Banca Strait liave been known to rise and fall about 18 feet ; if this ever
happens, it must arise from some unusual and irregular cause.
166
BANCA STRAIT. — DANGERS.
Groundiiif; of
tlic Cuflfnels
and other
ships.
Capt. Cow-
man's journal.
western point of this round dangerous bank bears N.W. by W. from Liicepara 8 miles,
and S. S. E. ^ E. from the first point about 9 miles, having 4 and 5 fathoms very near
its edge, with 6 fathoms about a mile to the westward, or nearly in mid-channel, which
is here very little more than 2 miles wide between the coast flat and this dangerous
bank on the eastern side the passage.
The Cuffnells, homeward bound, on February 21st, 1803, being too far from the
Sumatra shore, grounded upon the N.E. side of one of the long narrow spits, Lucepara
bearing S. 32° E., Lucepara Point S. 32° W., and the First Point JN.W. After getting
afloat, and warping the length of four hawsers to the N.N.E., she anchored in 10
fathoms, mud ; Lucepara Island then bore S. 29° E., Lucepara Point, S. S.W. ^ W.,
First Point of Sumatra N. 49° W., St. Paul Mountains N. 78° E., Pulo Laboang
Dapper E. 3° S., observed lat. 3° 4'S. From this station, the north end of the spit or
shoal was found on examination to extend N.N.W. about 1^ miles from the ship; and
to round it, she steered N.N.E. 2 miles in 10 fathoms, mud ; then westward, to get
into the proper channel, decreasing the depths to 5 fathoms about 3 miles from the
Sumatra shore.
Captain Egeberg was aground on its western edge in 3 fathoms, in a Swedish ship,
Lucepara bearing S. E. by S. ; the Camfall, a Portuguese ship, had the island bearing
the same, when aground. Captain Torin places the part of that round bank on which
he was aground in the Coutts, in 2| fathoms, about 8 or 9 miles N. 42° W. from Lu-
cepara, the First Point then bearing N. N.W. | W., open a little with the western
extremity of Parmasang Hills.
H. M. S. Belliqueux grounded in 3| fathoms, and had hard soundings from 2 to 5
fathoms on the round dangerous shoal, Lucepara bearing S. 48° E., Lucepara Point
S. 42° W., First Point IN. 26i° W.
The Inglis, homeward bound, December 11th, 1821, got aground on the N.E. point
of the westernmost spit that bounds the east side of the channel, about 2| miles to
the northward of the round dangerous bank, Lucepara Island bearing from the ship
a-ground S. E. i S., Lucepara Point S. by W., and the First Point N.'W. i N. Here
she lay three days upon uneven knowls of hard sand, having only 12 and 14 feet on
some of them at low tide ; and after having been lightened by taking out the guns,
starting the water, throwing overboard the lumber and teas from the orlop deck, ex-
clusive of 700 to 800 chests of teas from the hold, she got off the sand on the 14th,
with the aid of two Dutch vessels that came to her assistance.
Some of the Lucepara knowls appear to lie farther to the north-westward of that
island than any of the outer shoals were supposed to be situated, for the Company's
ship Lord Lowther, Captain Maddan, December 2nd, 1828, anchored in 4^ fathoms,
and had 3f fathoms at low water, Lucepara Island S. 49° E., First Point of Sumatra
N.24° W., Lucepara Point S. 18° W., Parmasang Hills, highest part, N. 18|° W., Pulo
Laboang Dapper N. 86° E., St. Paul Mountain N.71^° E., Small Peaked Hummock
N. 1 U° W. The boat had less than 3 fathoms at a very small distance to the eastward
of the ship at anchor.
These dangers extending farther to the westward than generally supposed, and the
mud flat projecting a great way out from the opposite coast, render the channel very
contracted in this part, as stated above, which may be farther proved by the following
extract taken from the journal of Captain Cowman, who passed close to these shoals
in the ship Magdalen, August 12th, 1806. At 10 a.m. the Island Lucepara S.E. ^ E.,
First Point N.N.W. ^W., in 3 fathoms, distant about 100 fathoms from an extensive
shoal, steered along its western edge several miles, in from 3 to 5 fathoms, hard bottom.
BANCA STRAIT.
167
When the island bore S. E. | E., and the First Point N.N.W. | W., had 4^ fathoms,
hard ground, close to the shoal. The island S. E. ^ E., and First Point N. by W. i
W., had (j fathoms soft, about 100 fathoms distant from the shoal. The island S.54°
E., First Point N. 15° W., had 8 fathoms, about 200 fathoms to the northward of the
shoal, and carried from 1-2 to 14 fathoms from its steep northern verge, to the First
Point. This shoal is extensive, and shewed itself very plainly, and the flat stretching
from the opposite coast of Sumatra was nearly dry, the tide being very low : the chan-
nel between them did not appear to be more than If or 2 miles broad.
In entering the strait, a ship ought not to bring the island to the southward of S.
54° E., until the F'irst Point bears N. 15° W., which will bring her pretty near the
Mud Flat; she may then steer North and N. by E. to round the First Point at 3 miles'
distance.
Ships bound into the strait from southward, generally fall in with Lucepara Island
bearing between N. by E. and N.VV., in soundings from 5| to 8 or 9 fathoms : if seen
bearing to the westward of North, steer towards the Sumatra coast until Lucepara is
brought to bear North, distant .3 or 4 leaijues. From hence steer to the N.W., and
keep about 1 to 2 leagues from the island, till you draw it well to the eastward, then
keep in mid-channel between it and the coast about Lucepara Point, which bears
nearly West from the island about 3 or 3;^ leagues. It seems advisable to take the
soundings from the west side of the channel in this part, when the ici/ul is tvesteily,
keeping in soft ground from 4f to 5^ fathoms ; but the depths increase to G and 7
fathoms near Lucepara, when it bears between E. N. E. and S. E. by E., and it may
be approached in working within 2 miles with these bearings.
When Lucepara bears E. N. E., Parmasang Hills will be discerned, if the weather is
clear : in the liair channel the western extremity of these hills bears N. by W. ^ W.,
and by the time Lucepara is brought to bear E. by S. h S., the First Point ought to be
in one w ith the western extreme of Parmasang Hills, bearing about N. by W. ^ W. : you
will now have 5 or 5:|: fathoms, soon after 4f , or probably 4^ fathoms, for a little way.
With the west end of Parmasang Hills kept on with the First Point, steer N. by W.
to N.N.W., so as to bring the highest Parmasang Hill nearly on with it when Luce-
para bears S. 59° E. ; here you will have or 0^ fathoms, being past the shoalest
water, and in the narrowest part of the channel, abreast the western extremity of the
shoals in the offing, and the mud spit projecting from the coast. Continue to steer
about N. by W., still observing to keep the First Point in one with the western extre-
mity of Parmasang Hills, until Lucepara bears S. 50° E.; being now clear of the shoals
in the offing, steer about N. by E., to round the First Point at 2 or 3 miles' distance,
in 10 or 12 fathoms water. The west extreme of Parmasang Hills kept on with the
First Point is a safe leading mark to avoid the shoals on the cad side of the channel,
as stated by Captain Torin, of the Coutts.
If the weather be cloudy, and Parmasang Hills not visible, keep within 3 or 4 miles
of the Sumatra shore, observing not to bring Lucepara to the southward of S. 54° E.,
until the First Point bears N. by W. ^ W. : when within 5 or 6 miles of the latter, edge
out a little, to avoid the shoal flat to the southward of that point, being then clear of
the western extremity of the shoals in the offing ; but ships should not bring the First
Point to bear so much northerly as N. by W. ^ W., when it is approached within the
distance mentioned above ; the Hindostan's boat had only ^\ fathoms on the shoal
flat, with this bearing.
From the First Point, E. by N. about 6 miles, lies the Hindostan Shoal, a small
got
Sailing
Directions.
bank, with 3 fathoms water on it, and Ah or 5 fathoms all round : the Hindostan
Hindostan
Shoal.
168 BANCA STRAIT.
Upon this Spot May 7th, 1798, and when aground, the southernmost hill of Mount
Pariiiasans' hore N. 31° W., low land about Point Lalary N. 54° W., low land about
the First Point S. 72° W., Lucepara S. 12° E., a hill on Banca like an island S. 08° E.,
and a rociiy point nearly East. From the First Point E. 2^- miles, 7 fathoms water is
the deptii, on a spit which extends in a S. S. E. direction about 1^ miles, having from
6 to 5 fathoms on it generally ; but theie is a patch at its southern extremity of only
4-h fathoms, which bears E. S. E. from the First Point about 3^ miles.
West side of THE MUD FLAT that lines the coast of Sumatra, although not so dangerous as
tiic channel the shoals ou the cast sidc of the chauuel, should, nevertheless, be approached with
great caution, for to the southward of the First Point it projects about 2 miles from
the shore ; and its verge here, directly opposite the N.VV. extremity of those shoals, is
Grounding of steep to. September Isl, 1803, the Ganges grounded on the Mud Flat to the south-
severai siiips ward of the First Point, this point bearing N. byW, and Lucepara Island S. E. by
E. ^ E., oft" shore 2 or 3 miles. This part of the flat appeared to be a spit, for the
boats found 8 and 9 fathoms to the W. S.W., with very irregular soundings about the
ship. She lay 20 hours in the mud, was obliged to carry out a bower and stream
anchor, which were lost, with two men. The Cuff'nells, March 7th, 1811, at 2 p. m.,
grounded on the Sumatra Flat, after having shoaled regularly to 4 fathoms. Island of
Lucepara bearing S. E., coast of Sumatra from the First Point N. by W. ^ W. to
South, and Parmasang Mount just open with the Point. Carried out the stream
anchor astern, and hove oft' at 2 a. m., being then high water, and anchored about
half a mile to the N. E. of the edge of the flat. Other ships, when aground on
this mud flat, have been obliged to start part of their water before they could be
floated off.
In the Hindostan's journal, April 20th, 1800, Captain Millett made the following
remarks relative to the bank. To the southward of the First Point of Sumatra, a mud
bank projects about 2 miles from a green ])oint of land : when Lucepara bore
S. E. 5 S., just in sight. First Point IN. by W. -^ W., and the point from whence this
bank extends farthest out S. by W. f W., the boat had 3^ fathoms ; and standing off" from
it, the water deepened suddenly to 5^ fathoms. The Madras put her helm down in 5^
fathoms, and grounded ; this bank ought not to be approached under 6^ or 7 fathoms.
The Buckinghamshire, December 20th, 1816, after passing the First Point in II
fathoms, steering S. E. by E. at 3 p.m. shoaled from 1 1 fathoms suddenly to 6, 4, and
3| fathoms, then grounded on the Sumatra flat, with the First Point bearing N. 20° W.
about a sail's breadth open of a small hill that joins the western part of Parmasang
Hill, the highest part of which bore N. 18° W., a point to the southward of the First
Point S. 84" W., Southern extreme of Sumatra S. 3° W., Lucepara Island S. 42° E.,
distance ofT the nearest shore about 2 miles. The bank consisted of soft mud, from
which the ship was hove off" at high water.
The Waterloo, December IGth, 1817, after passing the First Point, grounded on the
Sumatra mud flat, Lucepara Island bearing S. 45° E., and the First Point N. 21° W.,
and open considerably with the extremity of Parsamang Hill ; and the point was on
with the second hummock to the westward of that hill. This ship lay aground nine
days, and floated off" the bank on the 25th, after being greatly lightened by the Win-
chelsea, in company, having received her guns, shot, and part of the cargo.
The Bridgewater, January 2jst, 1818, grounded on the Sumatra flat to the south-
ward of the First Point, with the western extreme of Parmasang Hill N. 19° W., First
Point N. 21° W., Lucepara Island S. 40° E., Lucepara Point S. 4° W. After the tide
BANCA STRAIT. — LUCEPARA PASSAGE. 1C9
rose, hove clear of the bank, by four 10-inch hawsers, made fast to the Lowther Castle,
at anchor about three cables' lengths distant, in 7| fathoms water.
August 30th, 1803, the Coutts anchored in 5 fathoms, soft mud, Lucepara Point
S. 40° W., the Island E. 2-2^= S., and the First Point N. 9^° W., distant from the
nearest shore 3^ miles ; at low water had only 3^ fathoms, and grounded, the tide
having- fallen 1^ fathoms. She was nearly in the fair channel at this time, but rather
a little towards the Sumatra side; for 4^ fathoms is generally the least water in the
fair track, with Lucepara bearing E. S. Eastward, which is the shoalest part of the
channel. Farther to the northward, the depth increases towards the shoals in the
ofiing, and also towards the mud flat that projects from the coast near the First
Point.
BRIEF DIRECTIONS for sailing through the LUCEPARA PASSAGE.— If i?rief direr.
entering from the southward, and having passed about mid-channel between Lucepara i,u"epara '"
Island and the Sumatra coast, as soon as the First Point is seen, bring it to bear I'assage.
N. by W. 77 W., or just touching the western extremity of Parmasang Hill if the latter
is visible, and keeping Lucepara Point to the westward of S. 5° W. until the Island of
Lucepara bears S. 54° E. : being then within 7 or 8 miles of the First Point, edge out
a little to bring it to the westward of N. 22° W., well open with the western extremity
of Parmasang Hill ; or even touching, or just opening with Point Lalary, to avoid the
Sumatra Flat which projects out 2 miles or more. Another guide is, to keep Luce-
para Point between S. 5° W. and S. 10° W., and not to bring Lucepara Island to the
southward of S. 36° E. till within 4^ or 4 miles of the First Point ; being then to the
northward of the outer slioals, this jjoint may be opened considerably with Point
Lalary, as you approach to round it at 2 or 3 miles' distance.
Entering from the northward, and having rounded the F'irst Point at 2 or 3 miles'
distance, keep Point Lalary open with it, or the western extremity of Parmasang Hill
well open with the F'irst Point, observing to keep the latter to the westward of N. 22° W.
till Lucepara Island is brought to bear S.50° E. : being then about 7 miles to the
southward of the First Point, and having passed the projecting part of the Sumatra
Flat, where mmu/ ships have grounded, the western extremity of Parmasang Hill
should be gradually drawn into contact with the First Point bearing N. by W.^ W. ;*
or Lucepara Point kept bearing between S. 5° W. and S. 10° \V. appears also to be
a safe guide for the narrow part of the channel, between the projecting part of the
Sumatra Flat and the shoals situated 2^ and 3 leagues to the N. Westward of Luce-
para. When this island is brought to bear E. S. E. you may haul over towards it, as
the deepest water is found in that side of the channel, and you may pass it at 2 miles'
distance if necessary, in steering to the southward, until 2j or 3 miles to the south-
ward of Lucepara ; being then clear of tiie long reef, which extends from it iu that
direction, you may haul more to the eastward at discretion, if needful.
FIRST POIINT, on the Sumatra shore, in lat. 3° 0' S., Ion. 105° 58' E., bearing Fir=t I'oint.
N. 42° W. from Lucepara Island, distant 17 miles, is low and level, the trees on it
* After rounding the First Point, the Sussex kept the stv all peaked liummock on Banca N. 10° W. until the
above Point was on with the gap of Parmasang Hill, and the hummock was then just visible from the poop ;
least water 7 fathoms. But with the small peaked hummock bearing N. ll^'' W., the Lowther had only 3 J at
low water on the outermost Lucepara knowl, Lucepara Island then bearing S. 49" E., Lucepara Point S. 18^ W.,
First Point N. 24° W., Parmasang Hill, highest part, N. 18|° W., Pulo Laboang Dapper E. 4° N,, and St.
Palu's -Mountain N. 71^° E.
VOL. II. Z
170
BANCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA SHORE.
Tanjong Pan-
gong, or Point
Lalary.
Second Point.
Carang
Timbaga
Shoal,
and otiier
dangers.
Directions.
being of equal height ; and it bears North a little easterly from Liicepara Point. The
mud Hat projecting from this point, is steep, and should not be approached under 10
or 12 fathoms, particularly on the N. E. side, which depths are about 1 or H miles off;
neither ought a ship to stand too far out to the eastward, on account of the Hindostaa
Shoal, already mentioned.
TANJONG PANGONG, or POINT LALARY, on the Island Banca, bears
N. W. by N. from First Point, distant 10^ miles ; and the coast of Sumatra takes a westerly
direction from the First Point about 5 or 6 leagues, then northerly about 4 leagues
to the Second Point, known by a high tree a little inland, very conspicuous above the
others. The coast betwixt the First and Second Points forms a deep bight, which is
bounded by two interjacent points ; that nearest the First Point being generally called
the False First Point, and the other to the northward, the False Second Point. The
whole of the coast here, as in other parts, is fronted by a shoal mud flat, projecting
from it about 2 miles in some places.
SECOND POINT, in lat. 2° 41' S., bears from First Point nearly N.W., distant
8 leagues ; the Sumatra coast, in this place, may be approached to 11 or 12 fathoms,
about 2 or 3 miles off, but ships seldom stand above a half or two-thirds of the channel
over towards Banca, on account of an extensive shoal near that side of the strait, opposite
the Second Point. This shoal, called Carang Timbaga, although formerly not consi-
ilered dangerous, is now ascertained to have several dangerous patches on it :* the
ship Good Hope, June 28th, 1814, having slioaled suddenly on its edge from 19 to 10
fathoms, the anclior was let go ; she had then 6 fathoms rocks under the stern, 4^
fathoms on another spot, and 8 fathoms, sand, at the main chains ; Second Point of
Sumatra bore W. 3° S., Point Lalary S. 35° E., Parmasang Peak N. 43° E., a rock
above water S. 70° E., distant 2 miles. Captain Napier, of this ship, describes the
shoal to be a long narrow ridge of rocks and sand, stretching N.W. and S. E. about 2
miles. The first of the flood sets strong to the N. N. E. across the shoal, with ripplings,
and the latter part to N. N.W. The boat found regular soundings of 12 and 13
fathoms between the shoal and tlie rock, with 7 fathoms close to the latter, from which
the Second Point bore West, and Point Lalary S. S. E.
The following danger, seen by Captain Rush, of the Royal Charlotte, January 15th,
1813, seems to be on the Carang Timbaga Shoal. Past noon, saw a reef of rocks a
little above the surface of the sea, probably covered at high water, distant about
2 miles from the Banca shore, and extending about three-quarters of a mile, Parma-
sang Hill bearing then N. E., Point Lalary S. E. f S., Second Point W. | N., and
the reef East from us, distant about 2 miles.
Captain Ross, of the Discovery, in his survey of the shoals to the northward of
Lucepara, ascertained the foregoing shoal to be dangerous. December 29th, 1812,
saw some rocks above water, which were on with Point Lalary bearing S. 33° E.,
anchored in 10 fathoms, and had 7^ fathoms, coral rock, on the edge of the shoal.
Sent the boat to sound towards the rocks, and the depths decreased to 2 and \^
fathoms, alternately rocks, sand, and mud. When on the rocks, the Second Point
bore W. i N., tree' on ditto W. 5° S., White Rock N. 4^° E., Parmasang Point
N. 8° E.,'the peak N. 26° E., Point Lalary S. 321° £., Great Nanka Island N. 10° W.
The best track in passing from the first to the second point is to keep in from 12 to
Part of it is said to be now an isle, having coco-nut trees on it, with a safe channel between it and Banca.
BANCA STRAIT. — NANKA ISLANDS.
J71
18 fathoms, mostly regular soundings, and not to stand above raid-channel, or at
farthest two-thirds of the channel towards Banca, keeping within 5 or 6 miles of the
Sumatra shore.
The General Hewitt, in June, 1816, whilst working between the second and third
points, shoaled to 7 fathoms, standing towards the Sumatra coast ; the helm was in-
stantly put down, and she had 6 fathoms in stays, distant at least 4 miles from the
Sumatra shore.
The brig Shannon, bound from Singapore to Batavia, March 27th, 1825, had shoal
soundings of 4 to 3 and 2f fathoms, with Parmasang Hill E. ^ N., northernmost
Nanka Island N. f E., Second Point S. E. by S. — and she had 4^ fathoms with the
northernmost Nanka Island N. N. E. ^ E., and the Third Point N.VV. f N.
Parmasang Point, on the Banca side of the strait, projecting out from the hills of
this name, is steep to, having 5 fathoms very near it, and a rocky islet a little to the
northward ; between it and Nanka Point the coast of Banca forms a deep bay, having
overfalls and foul ground in this pai't, rendering it necessary to avoid this side of the
strait, and to keep nearest to the Second Point of Sumatra in passing.
THIRD POINT, in lat. 2° 23' S., bears from the Second Point about N.W. by Third Point.
N., distant 20 miles, and N.VV. by W. ^ W. from the highest Parmasang Hill ; it is a
little higher than the others, having 13 fathoms about a mile off" when it bears S.W.
^ S., and only 3 feet at a quarter of a mile distance. The coast of Sumatra betwixt
these points forms a deep bay, having a shoal flat stretching across it, and projecting
about 4 miles from the shore. To avoid the overfalls on the Banca side, and the flat
that lines the Sumatra coast, a ship should round the Second Point at about 3 or 4 miles'
distance, then steer northward for the Nanka Islands, keeping in mid-channel ; the
soundings in this track will be generally from 20 to 10 fathoms, decreasing towards
the Nanka Islands ; and being abreast of these at 4 miles' distance, haul to the west-
ward for the Third Point, to pass it at the distance of 2 or 3 miles.
NANKA ISLANDS (north part of Great Nanka, in lat. 2° 25' S., Ion. 105° Nanka island*.
48^' E.,* by chronometers from Batavia) are three in number, and are situated about
4 or 5 miles from the Banca shore ; the middle one is low, but the westernmost, or
Little Nanka, and also the Great Nanka, next to Banca, are moderately elevated.
The latter is high in the middle, sloping to a point at each end when viewed from the
southward, and is aijout 1^ miles in extent.
Ships in want of wood or water frequently touch here to procure a supply, which wood and
may be got conveniently on the largest island ; small ships may anchor occasionally
on tlie north side the islands in 3^ or 4 fathoms, but here the ground is not good.
The Company's ships, bound homeward, anchor to the southward or south-westward
of them, where they fill up their water, as these islands are preferable for this purpose
to the watering-place at North Island, but not so convenient as at Rajah Bassa.
The Discovery, December 28th, 1812, anchored in 7^ fathoms, clay, with Great
Nanka bearing from N. 18^° E. to N. 59^° E., distant about 2 miles, Little Nanka
N. 20^° W. to N. 25|°W., Tliird Point 'of Sumatra W. 13° N., Parmasang Point
S. 30° E., Parmasang Peak S. 47° E., and a large tree on Sumatra, supposed to be
that near the Second Point, S. 3° W. The Wexford anchored in (Ji fathoms, about a
Captain Ross makes them 1° 1.3^' East from tlie east end of Pulo Aor by mean of four chronometers,
which agrees with the longitude stated above.
z 2
172
BANCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA SHORE.
Tides.
mile off, Great Nanka bearing from N. 12° W. to N. 33° E., and Parmasang Peak
S. 42° E.
Amongst these islands there are some rocks ; there are also rocks or reefs stretching
from them to the Banca shore, having only 2 or 2^ fathoms water between them, pre-
cluding any safe passage for vessels inside the islands. From the N.W. side of Great
Nanka, a reef projects about 2 cables' lengths, with rocks above and under water;
but the N. E. side, in which are several coves with white sand, is safe to approach with
boats : that where the watering-place is consists of brownish sand, and the run of
water, which is good, may be seen when the tide is low, but at other times it cannot
be perceived without landing. There is a spring of water near the S. E. point of the
island, not so good as the former, nor sufficient for more than one or two ships : there
are also some springs in a bay, with a sandy beach, on the west side the island, where
H. M. S. Belliquenx, and a convoy of seven sail from China, filled up their water in
March, 1811. The tide rises 12 feet perpendicularly during the springs, and some-
times more.
Fourth Point.
Coast tind
slioal ImnU.
Ships that have
grounded on it.
How to be
avoided.
Tides.
FOURTH POINT, in lat. 2° 20' S., bears from the Third Point about W. i N.,
distant 7 leagues ; the coast is concave between these points and lined by a shoal bank,
which may be approached occasionally to 7 or 8 fathoms, regular soundings ; but you
may keep 3 or 4 miles off shore, not coming nearer the edge of the bank than 10
fathoms. This is considei-ed the safe side of the strait, the Banca side having in some
places foul ground and overfalls, and forming a deep bight between the Nanka Islands
and Mintow Point, is seldom closely approached ; for ships generally keep within 5
or 6 miles of the Sumatra coast, in regular soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms. The
Fourth Point may be approached occasionally to 10 fathoms, at the distance of half or
three-quarters of a mile. From the Fourth Point the coast stretches nearly West
about 7 or 8 leagues, and in this space the different branches of Palamban River
fall into the sea. Shoal banks project 3 or 4 miles from these rivers, which are steep
to, from 8 or 9 fathoms, and ought never to be approached under these depths night
or day. This may be considered as a continued bank extending north-westward and
westward from the Fourth Point, projecting from it about 2 miles, but much farther
out, a little to the westward of the point, and opposite Palamban Rivers. Several
ships have grounded on this bank, by borrowing too closely. The Wycombe, after
rounding the Fourth Point about 2 or 2| miles' distance, in 10 fathoms, continued in
10 and 11 fathoms until the lead was overhove, and before another cast could be got,
she grounded on the edge of the bank, the extremes of Sumatra bearing from W.
6° S. to E. 19° S., Fourth Point S. 58' E., Monopin Hill N. 1° E., easternmost part
of Banca in sight N. 45° E., off the Sumatra shore 3 miles. A little way inside the
ship, the boats had 10, 7, and 3 feet water, and the whole of the bank towards the
shore and the Fourth Point seemed very little covered at low tide. About half a
cable's length outside, the water deepened to 8 fathoms, and in this depth an anchor
was laid, by which she hove off the bank on the following tide. The bank is hard
sand, covered with a thin stratum of black mud ; and as there are 8 fathoms on its
steep edge, and 1 1 fathoms very near, it ought not to be approached under 1 1 or 10
fathoms, with the lead kept going. To avoid it in day-light, the Fourth Point should
not be brought to the eastward of S. E. by S. or S. E. ^ S., nor should the point be
passed nearer than 3 miles ; when to the westward of the point, a ship ought to keep
at least 4 miles from the shore. Off Palamban River it is high water at 8 hours on
full and change of moon, rise of tide 7 or 8 feet.
BANCA STRAIT. — BANCA SHORE. 173
BATACARANG POINT, in lat. 2° 0' S., Ion. 104° 53' E., bearing N.W. by W. Batacaranp
1 1 or 1 1^ leagues from the Fourtli Point, is surrounded by shoals, stretching out about ^"'"'"
2 leagues, and known by a clump of trees which gives it a bluff appearance ; the False
Point is more sloping and flat, and lies about or 7 miles farther southward, between
which and the Fourth Point the land forms a deep concavity, where the branches of
Palamban River disembogue into the strait. Salsee River, situated nearest to the
Fourth Point, is the easternmost branch ; the next is generally called False River, the
third Palamban River, and the westernmost Salt River. These rivers have inside
from 3 to 8 or 10 fathoms ; and 1|^ or 2 fathoms outside, in the channels through the
bank that fronts them. During the rainy season, large drifts are brought down these
rivers by the freshes, which then set strong over towards the west end of Banca ; and
as the flood sets strong into them, on the springs, great care is requisite in this part of
the strait, to avoid being driven too near either shore, both sides being fronted by
dangers. Palamban Town is about 14 leagues up the river; its chief trade is
tin, procui'ed from the Island Banca, with some pepper, and rattans, the produce of
Sumatra.
Small ships passing through Banca Strait or Caspar Strait, should be always on
their guard, to repel any attack from the piratical proas, which often lurk about the
strait to surprise defenceless vessels.
MONOPIN, or MANOOMBING HILL, in lat. 2° 0' S., Ion. 105° 14' E., by Monopm iim.
mean of chronometers from Batavia and Pulo Aor, is situated on the west end of
Banca ; and its summit ending in a peak, which may be seen at a considerable dis-
tance, answers as a guide in approaching to or departing from the north end of the
Strait. About 2 leagues S. 35° W. from the hill is situated Tanjong Colean, or
Mintow Point, the western extremity of Banca, having a fort on it ; and the town of ^;[;"{^^^^,.' "" '
Mintow is a little farther eastward. Mintow Bank is composed of hard sand, with
soundings from 2 or 3 to 5 fathoms, and it extends a considerable way, nearly parallel
to the coast ; inside of it there are 10 and 12 fathoms, decreasing regularly towards the
shore, where ships anchor in Mintow Road. A ship working through the strait, to
keep clear of the outside of Mintow Bank, should not bring Mintow Point to the
westward of JN.W. by N.
and Bank,
Slioal.
CARANG BR AM, an extensive shoal of rocks and sand, dry in some places, forms carang Bram
the eastern extremity of Mintow Bank, and lies 4 or 5 miles from the shore, off a point
of Banca, called Tanjong Pooni ; and this shoal, when on with the Peak of Monopin
Hill, bears N. 39° W.
AMELIA BANK, of 3^ fathoms, hard ground, on which the Walmer Castle Amelia Bank,
grounded, and the Princess Amelia touched, homeward-bound from China, in 1816,
lies about IJ or 2 miles outside Carang Bram Shoal. Monopin Hill bears from it
N. by VV. f W., and the eastern extreme of Carang Bram Shoal E. ^ N., distant 2^
miles, according to a plan of it, by Captain Balston, of tlie last-mentioned ship. The
Hope passed inside, between it and Carang Bram, in soundings from 5 to 10 and 12
fathoms : the depths increased gradually from 4^^, to 7, 8, and 10 fathoms in a west-
erly direction from it ; and to the southward of it, at the distance of about half a mile,
the Warley carried regular soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms, and it ought not to be
approached under 7 or 8 fathoms.
The Bridgewater, at 4 p.m., January 19th, 1818, grounded on the Amelia Bank,
174
BANCA STRAIT. — BANCA SHOBE.
Monopin Hill bearing N. 20° W., Woody Point N. 43° E., Carang Bram Rocks
N. 80° E., extremes of Banca from N. 40° W. to N. 68° E. Found the least water 19
feet, under the larboard fore-chains, and deepest to the S. S. E., in which direction laid
out two kedge anchors, and at 11 p.m., when the tide began to flow strong to the east-
ward, the water rose, and at 1 a.m. the ship floated off the bank.
Carang
Hodjee.
CARANG HODJEE is another dangerons shoal, close to the west end of Mintow
Bank, and its outer part is distant 5 or (3 miles from Mintow Point, being in
one with Monopin Peak bearing from N. E. ^ N., to N. E. | E., and it is very
extensive. The rocks on it are all covered at high water, but many of them are
visible at half-tide ; close to it on the nortli and west sides the depths are irregular,
from IG to 30 fathoms. From Tanjong Colean, or Mintow Point, the northern rock
of Carang Hodjee bears W. :| S., distant 2 miles: other rocks on the shoal bear
W. by S. to W. S. W. from the south point.
To sail into
Mintow Road.
TO SAIL into MINTOW ROAD, a ship may pass on either side Carang Hodjee ;
if on the east side, Monopin Peak must be brought N. N. E., and with tliis bearing,
she should steer for Mintow Town, which would carry her about a mile or more to the
southward of Carang Hodjee, in about 5 or 6 fathoms, hard sand, upon Mintow Bank.*
When over it, the water will deepen to 12 or 13 fathoms, and shoal again quickly
towards the inner bank and the shore; the best anchorage is in 10 or 11 fathoms,
about 2 or 3 miles oft' the town, Monopin Peak bearing N. 10° E., Tanjong Pooni
S. 75° E., and Mintow Point N. 82° W. No ship can pass over Mintow Bank with
safety, if the hill bear to the westward of N., for on the eastern part, towards Carang
Bram, it dries in many places. Witli the hill bearing North, a ship steering for Min-
tow Road will cross over the bank in about 3 or 3^ fathoms at low water spring tides,
the bottom hard sand, coral, and shells. With a working wind, keep the hill between
North and N. N. E. The Inner Bank is about l^ miles oft" the shore of Mintow,
having only 1 fathom water on it, 2 fathoms inside, and 8 fathoms close to it on the
outside.
If a sliip coming from the northward intend to enter Mintow Road on that side of
Carang Hodjee, she ought to bring Monopin Peak E. N. E., which will carry her be-
tween Frederick Hendric and Carang Hodjee ; and she may pass betwixt the latter
and Banca, in a channel about 1^ miles wide, in 18 to 15 fathoms water, borrowing
towards the Banca shore, but not under 8 or 9 fathoms. Carang Hodjee must be
avoided, for it is steep to, with overfalls near it, and rocky ground, from 16 to 30
fathoms. She may pass Mintow Point within half a cable's length, then haul
out to a convenient distance from the shore, and proceed to the anchorage abreast the
town.
Coast and TANJONG OULAR is a point about 5 or 6 miles to the northward of Mintow
nonhwardo'r Poiut, having rocks projecting 3 or 4 miles from it, the outermost of which are on
Mintow Point, with Mouopiu Peak bearing S. 70° E.
Tanjong Beeat, a little farther northward, has also dangerous reefs of rocks pro-
jecting about 4 miles out; when on with Monopin Peak, the outermost of these bears
)w Bank is said to be filling up, for in August, 1816, the Surat Castle, in crossing it with Monopin
ng N. N. E., had only 4 and J less 4 fathoms ; and with the Hill bearing the same, at leaving
* Mintow Bank
Hill bearing N.N. rj., nau oniv * anu j less i Kiiiiuino , tum «ii,ii luc i.xii_ ^ - , „
Mintow Road, she had two cast's of only 3^ fathoms, in crossing the bank ; where formerly 5 and 6 fathoms
were found.
BANCA STRAIT. — FREDERIC HENDRIC ROCKS.
175
S. 28° E. Betwixt these rocks and the others, called Frederick Hendric, about 3.^
leagues off the Banca shore, there is a channel nearly 2 leagues wide, which is seldom inner channel.
frequented except by country traders ; and it ought not to be chosen by strangers, for
the number and true positions of the Frederick Hendric Rocks are not correctly known.
A vessel, to proceed by it, should not come under 14 fathoms towards Banca, nor
stand farther out than to bring the easternmost land in sight, called Poonyabang,
and appearing like an island, to bear N. E. ^ E. ; with this bearing, and Monopin
Hill about S. 70° E., a ship will have 18 fathoms hard sand and overfalls, near
Frederic Hendric,
THE FREDERIC HENDRIC has generally been considered a single rock,
situated nearly mid-way between the west end of Banca and Batacarang Point ; but
there is great cause to think that several spiral rocks, separated from each other, exist
in that situation, which have been mistaken for one and the same rock : this will be
perceived l)y the following remarks.
The Nonsuch, July 29th, 1789, after tacking in 5 fathoms on the edge of the bank
off Batacarang Point, stood E. ^ S. to 12 fathoms, then tacked in 11 fathoms, and
immediately grounded, Monopin Hill bearing E. 13° S., off the Banca shore
3 or 3^ leagues, and about 4 leagues from the Sumatra shore. Under the bow-
sprit, had only \^ fathoms, and 5 fathoms abaft. The tide flowing, she got off, after
being lightened forward. The rock on which she grounded was thought to be the
true Frederic Hendric. Farther to the northward, she had previously tacked in over-
falls, from 1^ to 12 fathoms, hard ground, on the same side the cliannel.
The Charlotte, in 1786, explored another shoal, of considerable extent, thought to
be Frederic Hendric, with soundings on it from 2 to 5 fathoms, rocks and sand. Tiie
boat, at anchor in 1^ fathoms on the shoalest part, had Monopin Peak bearing
E. 23° S., southernmost extreme of Banca S. 18° E., extreme of the Little Carama-
naches N. 43° E., northern extreme of the land E. 35° N., the westernmost island
N. 38° E., and a bluff rock near the shore E. 18° S.
The Caesar anchored in 16 fathoms, had 10 fathoms after veering out cable, and at
half a cable's length from her the boat had 2f fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing E. S. E.
4 leagues.
A P
ortuguese
ship
aground
had the west point of Banca E. S. E,, and a point on
Frederic Hen-
dric Kocks.
Sumatra W. \ N., thought to be Batacarang Point.
Captain Waterman, of the ship Volunteer, went in his boat to examine the Frederic
Hendric Rocks in July, 1813, where he perceived white water; but the current setting
strong into the strait, carried him past the nortii part of the shoal. When upon the
south part of it, in 3 fathoms, hard sand, Monopin Hill bore E. 13° S., iMintow Point
E. 35° S., high trees of Batacarang Point VV. 10° S., and at the distance of a ship's
length had 19 fathoms. That part of the shoal where he sounded was hard white
sand, which discoloured the water by the current running over it, as the white water
extended out to 17 fathoms, at a considerable distance from the slioal. This
navigator thinks the shoal is not above miles distant from the nearest part of
Sumatra, and that no ship should deepen above 10 or 11 fathoms, as the water
deepens very suddeidy from 12 fathoms, which is near the steep edge of the shoal.
Another navigator says, that Frederic Hendric Rock is in one with Monopin Peak
bearing E. 20° S., and distant 3^ leagues from Banca. It is generally thought, that
8 or 9 feet is the least water on this rock, but some persons assert tliat its summit
appears above water at times, when the tide is very low. This may probabli/ happen,
170 PASSAGE OUT OF BANCA STRAIT,
as the perpendicular rise and fall of tide is about 2 fathoms on the springs ; notwith-
standing, navigators, in passing, seldom discern it, or perceive breakers upon any of
To avoid them, these dangers, which go by the name of Frederic Hendric. To avoid them, ships
passing through the fair channel ought to keep in or 7 fathoms, on the edge
of Batacarang Bank, and never deepen to the eastward above 9 fathoms, when
Monopin Hill bears from E. to E. S. E. ^ S.
Pas^^age from A SHIP bound out of the strait, having passed the Fourth Point at 3 or 4 miles'
mlt'of'th^*""' distance, in soundings 11 or I'J, but not under 10 fathoms, should steer about i^.^^^
Strait. by W. for Batacarang Point, attending to the tides, which sometimes runs strong into,
or out of Palamban rivers. The banks fronting these rivers should not be approached
under 10 fathoms, nor ought a shi|) to deepen above 12 or 14 fathoms towards Carang
Bram, and Mintow Bank, on the 13anca side. In the fair track, there are some small
sandy spots, which might alarm strangers, or be mistaken for the shoals on the Banca
side, if a ship get upon them in the night ; but tlie least water on any of them is
6 fatlioms. When abreast of an island at the entrance of the False River, with a pas-
sage on each side of it appearing open, a cast of G fathoms may probably be got upon
one of these spots. Another patch, with 7 fathoms, bears nearly S. ^ W., distant about
6 miles from Mintow Point. When on another 7 fathoms bank, Mono|)in Hill bore
N. 20° W., and the Fourth Point S.W. i S., distant about 2 leagues. From another
bank of 9 fathoms, Monopin Hill bears N. by W. ^ W., and the Fourth Point
S. by W. about 6 miles. The best track is about mid-way between tiie Banca
and Sumatra shores, or rather nearest to the latter, during the night, where the bank
fronting the coast is safe to approach to 9 or 10 fathoms, if the lead is kept bi'iskly
going.
Steering about N.W. by W. for Batacarang Point, the depths will probably increase
to 15 or 10 fathoms to the south-westward of Mintow Point, and decrease as the
western shore and Batacarang Point is approached. Before Monopin Hill is brought
to bear East, a ship ought to borrow towards the edge of the Sumatra Bank, to 8 or
9 fathoms, and when the hill bears between E. by S. and E. S. E. ^ S., she must keep
as near as possible in CJ^ and 7 fathoms, mud, on the edge of the bank projecting from
Batacarang Point, in order to avoid the Frederic Hendric Rocks. With a working
wind, a ship should not deepen above 7^ or 8 fathoms, towards these rocks ; but she
may stand on the western tack, to 5 fathoms on tiie edge of Batacarang Bank. The
channel here is about 4 or 5 miles wide, and if a ship deepen to 10 fathoms, she will
be very near the Frederic Hendric Rocks. Having brought Monopin Hill to bear
E. S. E. ^ S., she will be clear of these rocks, and of the north end of Banca Strait ;
and if bound into the China Sea, may steer about N. by E. to pass between the
Seven Islands and Pulo Taya, which are high islands.
Wiien northerly winds blow from the Cliina Sea, from October to February, the
Tides. current or flood frequently sets strong to the south-east into the north entrance of
Banca Strait, for 18 hours at a time; and in the same direction to the eastward of the
Island of Banca. When S. E. winds prevail, the ebb generally runs strong out of the
strait, continuing longer than the flood ; although the Volunteer, in July, 1813,
^vorked into the entrance of the strait with a strong current setting to the southward.
In settled weather, there are two floods and two ebbs every 24 hours, but they are
greatly influenced by the winds.
177
PASSAGE FROM THE NORTHWARD, THROUGH BANCA
AND SUNDA STRAITS.
To enter
Banca Strait
from the nortli-
ward.
Nanka Islands.
WHEN BOUND from the NORTHWARD to BANCA STRAIT, haul in for
the Sumatra coast into or 7 fathoms, mud, on the edge of the bank frontin;^ Bataca-
rang Point, before Monopin Hill is brought to bear S. E. by E. ^ E. ; preserve that
depth, or keep from 5|^to 7 fathoms, if the wind be westerly, untifthe hill bear about
East, which will carry you well to the westward of Frederic Hendric Rocks : steer
then about S. S. E. 4 or 5 miles, till abreast of Carang Hodjee Shoal, afterwards S.E.
to E. S. E., or, as the tides render necessary, to pass in mid-channel, because the flood
running into Palamban rivers may drift you on the banks projecting 3 or 4 miles
from them, if too near the Sumatra shore, or the strong freshes from them at other
times may set you over towards the shoals adjacent to Banca. It is, therefore, im-
prudent for strangers to run in the night, unless the weather be clear and the land
visible.
After leaving the bank off Batacarang Point, the depths will increase, and from 10 To proceed to
to 12 fathoms are the best depths to preserve in passing the bank off Palamban rivers xhird^Pohit"
and the Fourth Point. The bank to the westward of this point beinur steep from 8 to and to the
2 fathoms, it must not be approached under 10 fathoms, and the ponit having a mud
bank projecting 3 miles from it, should be passed at 4, to 5 or (J miles' distance, in 10 or
12 fathoms ; steer then about E. ^ S. for the Third Point, in 10 to 14 fathoms, at about
3 miles' distance, not coming under 10 fathoms towards the bank fronting the Sumatra
shore, and do not stand farther off than 6 or 7 miles. The Third Point may be passed
at 2 or 3 miles' distance, in 10 or 1 1 fathoms ; from thence an easterly course should
be steered towards the Nanka Islands ; for the deep bight betwixt the Third and Second
Points being occupied by an extensive flat, projecting about 4 miles off, you ought to
keep about mid-channel in this part, or 6 miles distant from tiie Sumatra shore.
When near the Nanka Islands, a southerly course should be steered for the Second
Point, known by a tree near it very conspicuous above the others ; the depths will be
from 10 to 20 fathoms in this track, and the Second Point ought to be passed at 3 or
4 miles' distance. From hence to the First Point, the best track is not to stand above
a half or two-thirds of the channel over toward Banca, to avoid the overfalls and dan-
gers on that side; from 12 to 18 fathoms are the best depths to preserve, keeping within
5 or miles of the Sumatra shore, and not borrowing nearer it than 3 miles.
The First Point should not be rounded nearer than 2^ or 3 miles, in 10 to 12 fathoms,
and after passing it, the Island of Lucepara will be seen to the south-eastward. From
the First Point a southerly course must be steered, keeping at least 3 miles, but not Passage
more than 4 or 4^ miles from the Sumatra shore, in G to 7 fathoms, soft ground, until
4 or 5 miles southward of the point ; for the mud spit to tiie southward of the First
Point projects at least 2 or 2:^ miles, having 5^ fathoms close to its edge. Having pro-
ceeded about 2 leagues to the southward of the point, or before Lucepara is brought
to bear S. 50° E., borrow on the Sumatra shore to 3 miles' distance, to give a berth to
the western extremity of the dangers in the ofhng. This is best efl'ected by bringing
the F^irst Point to bear N. by W.^ W., or if Parmasang Hills are visible, keep the
VOL. II. 2 A
From the
Nanka Islands
to the Second
and First
Points.
From the First
Point through
the Lucepara
178
PASSAGE FROM THE NORTHWARD THROUGH BANCA STRAIT.
From tlie Lu-
cepara Passage
to the Two
Brothers.
point on with their western extremity ; when Lucepara is brought to bear about S.
54° E., the higiiest hill may be brought on with the First Point, and continued so,
until the ishmd bear about S. 60° E. Being then clear of the western extremity of the
shoals in the offing, steer to the southward with the First Point bearing about N. by
\V. ^ VV. in one with the western extremity of Parmasang Hills, keeping about 3 miles
of!" the coast until Lucepara bears about East ; you may tlien edge out from the coast
to the south-eastward, to deepen the water, and the island may be approached
within 2 or 3 miles if necessary ; when it is brought to bear North at 3 or 4 leagues'
distance, you will be clear of the strait, and will have 5j or 6 fathoms water. When
to the north-westward of the island, if hard soundings are got towards the shoals
adjacent to Lucepara, haul to the westward into soft ground, in the fair channel.
With a working wind, from 4^ or 5 fathoms on the Sumatra side, to 6 or 7 fathoms
towards the shoals, are good soundings; do not open the First Point with the west
end of Parmasang Hills, nor bring the point to bear N.N.W. till Lucepara bears S.E.
by E. ^ E.*
Proceeding from the First Point through this narrow part of the strait, it is advis-
able for persons unacquainted to keep a boat a-head sounding along the edge of the
mud bank that lines the coast, the channel being only about two miles wide between
it and the western extremity of the shoals in the offing, and so flat to the westward
and W. N. Westward of Lucepara, that ships seldom find more than 5, and sometimes
only 4i or 4f fathoms, in the fair track. By keeping a boat sounding in 4 and 4^
fathoms on tiie edge of the mud bank, a ship will be enabled to pass through in the pro-
per channel, when other marks are not always discernible. It is necessary when off the
First Point to borrow on the Sumatra side, for the ebb tide here sets strong to the
E. S. E., and in the latter part of the North-east monsoon, from February to April, a
strong current sets in this direction out of the strait, which is liable to horse a ship
among the shoals to the north-westward of Lucepara.
After bringing Lucepara to bear about N. by W. ^ W., distant 5 leagues, the depth
will increase to 6 or 6^ fathoms, and from thence steer S. S. E. and S. by E. to avoid
the shoal banks off Tree Island. As the currents are sometimes irregular, the course
cannot be always depended upon, neither are the soundings very regular, for there is
a 5 fathoms bank about 10 leagues S. S. Eastward of Lucepara, which some ships
have mistaken in the night for the bank adjacent to the coast. In day-light you may
borrow towards the Sumatra Bank to 9 fathoms, occasionally getting a sight of the
land ; if the depths decrease under 9 fathoms, haul more Out, and endeavour to keep
in 10 or 11 fathoms, night or day; and should they increase to 12 fathoms, edge in
towards the coast, until yon regain the depth of 10 or 11 fathoms.
Having got into about lat. 4° 40' S., or being within 8 or 10 leagues of the Two
Brothers, keep as near as possible in 9 to 10 fathoms, in order to see these islands bear-
ing to the southward; for if the depth is more than 11 fathoms when they are first
discerned, difficulty may be found in passing to the westward of tliem with a westerly
wind; the more so, as the current generally !<ets to the south-eastward during the wes-
terly monsoon. If you get into 1 1 fathoms or upwards, and fall to leeward of the Two
Brothers, be careful to give a berth to the Brouwer Shoals, lying E.N.E. of these
islands; and if you fall in with the North Watclier, take care in working to the south-
westward to avoid the Jason Hock, and the other dangers described in a preceding
section, in which directions are given for sailing from Batavia and Sunda Strait, to the
Strait of Banca.
Brief Directions for the Lucepara Passage have been given in a preceding page.
FROM BANXA STRAIT TO BATAVIA AND SUNDA STRAIT. 170
SHIPS from BANCA STRAIT, bound to Batavia, after falling in with the North F,om Barca
Watcher, generally steer for the South Watcher, giving a berth to the Tiiousand Batevia!
Islands in passing; and from the South Watcher they steer direct for Batavia Road.
The dangers in this track may be avoided, by attending to the directions above men- Caution in
tioned. The Two Brothers appear in one when viewed from the northward, and may xwoBrotheis.
be seen 6 or 7 leagues ; some ships have nearly run into danger by mistaking Knob
Hill on Sumatra for the Two Brothers ; it is therefore proper to have a good sight of
them, if they are to be passed in the night ; and if not plainly seen before dark, it will
be prudent to anchor, or keep standing off and on, during the night; for the Shahbun-
dar Shoal, to the westwardof these islands, extends a great way from the coast, and is
dangerous to approach.
If bound to Sunda Strait, keeping sight of the coast at times, in clear weather, and
preserving the depth of 9 or 9J fathoms, on drawing near the Two Brothers, steer to
pass on the west side of them, at from 1 to 3 miles' distance, observing not to borrow
under 9 fathoms towards the Shahbundar, or other shoals fronting the coast, nor to
exceed the distance of 3 miles from tlie Two Brothers in passing. If you pass them From the Two
on the outside, keep within 2, or at most 3 miles of them, until they bear to the east- N™rthTsil°<i.
ward of North ; by which means, the Brouwers Shoals, Lynn Shoal, and Dolphin
Rock, will be avoided. Having passed the Two Brothers, a south-westerly course
should be steered, to get in with the coast about North Island ; which, with the high
Zutphen Island, will be seen soon after losing sight of the Two Brothers, if the
weather is clear. Betwixt the latter and North Island, you may stand towards the
Sumatra shore to 8 fiuhoms, with a working wind ; in day- light, a good mark is to
tack w hen North Island comes on with the High Zutphen Island, you will then gene-
rally have 7i or 8 fathoms soft ground.
From North Island, ships used formerly to steer over for St. Nicolas Point, and then ^^^^Jf^^^'^^f,,
along the Java Coast inside the Button, which route is now disused, being circuitous,
and the leeward side of the strait in the westerly monsoon ; but during the easterly
monsoon, ships ought to prefer the Java side,* and pass out of the strait between
Princes Island and Crockatoa, if they do not intend to stop for a supply of water
at Mew Bay : in such case, they may go out of the strait betwixt Princes Island and
Java.
If bound out in the westerly monsoon, give a berth of a mile to the islet and spit at ^y^^P^^J^^^Jj
the S. E. end of North Island, and if not to stop to fill up your water at the Three iTiTna."' '
Sisters, stand along the coast, keeping about 2 miles off shore, until the Zutphen
Islands are approached, and anchor in Hounds Bay, at the north part of these islands,
if the day is far gone. From hence, weigh early in the morning, and although the
wind be scant, you will probably reach good anchorage under Pulo Bessy, or Crockatoa,
before the tide shift. The tide in this season generally sets to the soutiiward and Tides,
south-westward, from 4 o'clock in the morning until the evening, and sometimes to the
north-eastward or northward, during the night.
Having weighed from Hounds Bay, or being near the northernmost Zutphen Island
at day-light, pass it at U miles distant, and with the land wind, steer to pass theS.E.
island, called Hout Island, at the distance of 1^, or not under 1:^ miles.
The indraughts between these islands produce strong eddies, which render ships Eddies.
ungovernable at times, when the wind is light ; and in February and March, the cur-
* It is advisable not to stop at Anger Road in April, or even in May, witli tlie hope of procuring vater, as
the surf is often high in these months; the Company's sliip Charles Grant vas driven on shore, April 10th,
1S26, and nearly wrecked, after having parted from all her anchors.
2 A 2
180
PASSAGE THROUGH SUNDA STRAIT TO THE WESTWARD.
Zutphcii Is-
lands and Hog
Point
Rajah Bassa
Road.
Fresli water.
From Hog
Point to the
westward.
Retweeii Pulo
Bessy and
Croekatoa.
Leaving tlie
strait.
rent or tide sweeps round them to the S.W. and W. S.W., until past Hog Point, with
a velocity of 4 and 4^ miles per hour on the springs; this makes it necessary not to
borrow too close in rounding Hout Island, to prevent being drifted upon the reef that
projects a little way from it, where the Bombay was nearly wrecked.
When past Hout Island, or when it bears W.iN.W., steer to the W. S. Westward, so
as to round Hog Point at H or 2 miles' distance, where you will have strong ripplings,
but no danger to be apprehended in the day-time. Having rounded the rock off" Hog
Point, when it bears North, haul up W. N.W., and gradually to N.W., if you intend
to touch at Rajah Bassa Road for water or refreshments, giving a berth to Collier
Rock, by keeping 2 or 3 miles oft' shore, as you get to the northward. If the wind be
at North, or oft' the land, haul nearer to the shore, but you will not get moderate
depths until within 3 or 4 miles of Coco-nut Point, and you may round it in 12 to 18
fathoms, at 1| to 2 miles' distance, then haul up N. N.W. and N. by W. for Rajah
Bassa Road, and anchor with the peak E. N. E. or E. N. E. ^ N., in 12 to 14 fathoms,
blue mud, oft' shore \^ or 2 miles.
After getting 4 miles to the northward of Hog Point, a ship in working may safely
stand in to 12, and oft" shore to 20 fathoms.
The boats proceeding to Rajah Bassa for water will perceive a hut at a small dis-
tance to the right of the river, which should be kept on the starboard bow, in order to
pass in, clear of the projecting coral rocks.
After rounding the Zutphen Islands and Hog Point, if not to touch at Rajah Bassa,
steer for Pulo Bessy, making an allowance for the tide, which generally sets over
towards Java in this season ; and as the wind prevails from the westward, ships are
frequently obliged to work from the Zutphen Islands out of the strait : nevertheless,
if they round these islands in the morning, they generally get close to Pulo Bessy or
Croekatoa, into good anchorage, before the tide shifts. The passage between the
Zutphen Islands and Stroom Rock should not be attempted in the night, as the strong
tides are liable to horse a ship towards the latter and Thwart-the-way, where deep
water and rocky bottom render the anchorage very unsafe.
In blowing weather a ship may anchor under Croekatoa, where she will be
sheltered from westerly winds : or having approached Pulo Bessy, the channel be-
tween it and Croekatoa ought to be preferred to that betwixt the latter and Princes
Island, because there is good anchorage, should calms or contrary currents make it
necessary to anchor, which cannot be done in the channel to the southward of
Croekatoa.
With a fair wind, keep nearly in mid-channel, and if working through with a west-
erly wind, stand within 2,} miles of the islands on either side, but not nearer to the
south end of Pulo Bessy than 2 miles, in order to avoid the Hindostan Rock ; taking
care not to bring Zee Klip, or Gap Rock, open to the southward of Keyser Island, as
directed at page 142, where the Zee Klip is described. When clear of Croekatoa,
steer about West, which will carry you directly out of the strait, if the wind be
favourable. With a westerly wind, make short tacks towards the coast of Sumatra,
borrowing on that side the strait until you can pass clear out, well to the northward
of Princes Island; and when clear of it, steer S. Westward, to round Java Head, if
bound to Europe, or to the Cape of Good Hope.
When strong winds blow into the strait with a heavy sea, it is difficult, and some-
times impossible, to beat out to the westward, by the large channels to the north-
ward of Princes Island ; although at such times little difficulty has been experienced,
by several ships which have proceeded out
through Princes Strait,
as Princes
CASPAR STRAIT.
181
Island protected them from the heavy sea until they cleared the strait : but the
entrance of the strait should be kept open by those who adopt this passage, until they
obtain a proper offing;, on account of the heavy swell, liable to drive a ship near the
steep shore of Java Head, if the wind should happen to fail.
CASPAR STRAIT AND THE NORTH-EAST COAST
OF BANCA.
CASPAR STRAIT, formed between the island of Banca on the West, and Caspar strait.
Billiton on the East, was named after the Spanish captain who passed through it
from Manilla, in 1724; but Captain Hurle, returning from China in the English ship
Macclesfield, had previously passed through it in March, 1702. Pulo Leat sepa-
rates this strait into two principal branches ; that to the westward, betwixt it and
the S. E. part of Banca, is often called Macclesfield Strait; and the eastern
branch, situated betwixt Middle Island and Long Island, near Billiton, is generally
called Clements Strait, after Captain Clements, who commanded the fleet from
China, that went through this branch in July, 1781.
Many navigators prefer these straits to that of Banca, particularly when returning
from china late in the season, as the route by them is shorter, and the water much
deeper than in the Lucepara Channel, with generally more wind. Were it not for
several dangerous shoals near the water's edge, interspersed about these straits, they
would be preferable at all times to Banca Strait ; and there is sometimes less risk of
small vessels encountering pirates in these straits, than to the westward of Banca.
MACCLESFIELD STRAIT, being wider and better known, is more frequented Macclesfield
than Clements Strait. The south entrance is bounded on the west side by Pulo Lepa, ^'™"'
and on the east side by the Vansittart Shoals and the group of islets to the nortiiward.
Pulo Lepa was formerly supposed to be a part of Banca, but is now ascertained to be
separated from it by a narrow channel navigable for boats. The S. E. point of Pulo
Lepa is called EntrAxNCE Point, and is in lat. 3° 2' S., Ion. 100° 54' E., or 2' East JK
Entrance
Point.
from Batavia by chronometer; it bears from the Two Brothers N. N. E. 46 leagues.
If a ship be in want of fresh water, she may anchor about a mile to the N. E. of
Entrance Point, and get water from some of the small rivers in the bight between
Entrance Point and Rocky Point, where there are sandy beaches : but an armed boat
should be there, ready to protect the watering party, in case of any piratical proas
coming round Rocky Point from the westward. Captain Ross took in water from the
creek, or small river, about 2 miles to the North of Entrance Point, which was a little
tinged with a red colour, but produced no pernicious effect.
ROCKY POINT, the N. E. point of Pulo Lepa, is about 2 leagues to the north- Kocky Point.
ward of Entrance Point, having clusters of rocks, with gaps of deep water of 8 and 10
fathoms between them, stretching out to N. Eastward nearly 3 miles ; they are of
182 CASPAR STRAIT.
considerable extent, covered at high water, but at low tide many of the rocks are
visible. It is advisable to approach them no nearer than 10 fathoms, for the Warren
Hastings struck on one of them with Entrance Point bearing S. S.W., and the north
extreme of the three islands to the N.W. of Rocky Point N.W. by W. ^ W., having
shoaled from 15 fathoms to 4 fathoms at one cast of the lead.
In passing the eastern extremity of these rocks, Entrance Point should not be
brought to the southward of S. .31° W., until abreast of the west point of P(do Leat,
where the soundings are generally from 20 to 28 fathoms, if not too near Discovery
Rock, and decreasing to either side. The small island off the west point of Pulo Leat
is joined to it by a reef, which should have a berth of 1 or 2 miles in passing, but not
more than 2 or 2J miles, in order to avoid Discovery Rock, lying nearly in mid-
channel ; and from the north point of Pulo Leat, a reef projects to the northward,
and another to the westward about H miles. A ship will clear the latter, if the west
point of the small island contiguous to Pulo Leat is not brought to the westward
of S. 7° W.
If bound through Macclesfield Strait in the southerly monsoon, pass to the east-
ward of the Two Brothers, then steer for the strait, giving a berth to the Brouwers
Shoals: the soundings will generally be regular in the fair track, from 10 to 15
fathoms, soft bottom. The south end of Banca, having great overfalls from 20 to 5
fathoms off it in some places, should not be approached nearer than 4^ leagues; for
there is a 4|- fathoms bank in lat. 3° 19' S., distant about 13 miles from the nearest
part of Banca, and bearing South from a remarkable hummock. About 3 leagues
N. N. E. and N. Eastward from this bank, there are two 5 fathoms banks, one of
whicii bears from Entrance Point S. W. by S., and the southernmost S. by VV. : the
remarkable hummock, standing upon a lung, loiv point of Banca, when it can be seen
clear of the high land bearing N. 25° W., is a mark for both these banks. To avoid
them, and the other shoal banks off this coast, keep the low land of Banca, which joins
the l)ills, sunk from the deck until Entrance Point bears N. by E. ; then steer to the
N. N. Eastward for the strait, observing not to bring Entrance Point to the eastward
of N. by E., or N. \ E. The Royal George, in March, 1813, steering out of the strait
S.W. by W., shoaled gradually to 5^ fathoms, then tacked to the eastward with
Entrance Point bearing N. by W., Rocky Point N. ^ W., and the west point of Pulo
Leat N. 20° E.
Faiiiie Rock. FAIRLTE ROCK, in lat. 3° 27' S., Ion. 107° 1' E., bearing about S. by E. i E.,
&j or 9 leagues from Entrance Point, or 7 miles East of the point, is the southern-
most danger on the east side the passage, in approaching the strait from S. Westward.
This danger was discovered by the Company's ship Fairlie, at 1 a.m., April 21st, 1813,
when she grounded on it ; it was found to be a coral shoal, about half or three-quarters
of a cable's length in diameter, with only 6, 5, and 4 feet water on its centre, and
overfalls of 7 to 16 fathoms rocky bottom, close to it all round.
At anchor in Q^ fathoms at day-light, very near the rock bearing from S. S.W. to
S.W., the southernmost extreme of Banca bore N. by W. ^ W., and Shoal Water
Island N. E. by E., just in sight from the deck.
This rock was also examined by Captain Ross, in the Company's surveying ship
Discovery, July oth, 1814, who found 8, 9, and 12 fathoms water within 50 yards of
it, decreasing to 7^ fathoms at the distance of three-quarters of a mile to the S. S.
Westward ; the ground was soft about the rock, but sandy at a little distance all round,
and the sea shewed small breakers over it at this time.
Half- Fathoms
Bank.
CASPAR STRAIT. 183
When at anchor in 7^ fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile from the breakers,
bearing ]\. N. E. i E., Shoal Water Island bore N. E. by E., and by observations at
noon, with four sextants, made the rock in lat. 3° 'IT 13" S., Ion. 107° 2' 53" E., or
9' 3" East of the Island Edam, by mean of five chronometers agreeing within a few
seconds of longitude.
To avoid this danger, in leaving Macclesfield Strait in the evening, when clear of
the 2^ fathoms bank, a S. ^ W. or S. by W. course ought to be made good, till at
least 10 leagues past Entrance Point (for in April the current was found to set to the
eastward), taking care to sink Shoal Water Island from the deck of a large ship
by the time it bears N. E. by E., it being the only land distinctly seen from the
Fairlie Rock.
THE TWO-AND-A-HALF FATHOMS BANK, discovered by Captain Ross, Two-an.,«
and bearing South 6 or G^ miles from Entrance Point, is much in the way of ships
approaching from southward in thick weather, and other patches, of 5 and fathoms,
lie near it to the N. Westward. The channel is about 7 or 8 miles wide between the
Two-and-a-Half Fathoms Bank and the V'ansittart Shoals; and the soundings de-
crease to 9, 8, and 7 fathoms close to the former, and deepen to 20 or 24 fathoms on
the eastern side near the Vansittart Shoals. *>
VANSITTART SHOALS, lying about 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Entrance vansittan
Point, together with the last-mentioned danger, render the approacli to the strait very •''''°''''-
dangerous in thick weather, for although the sea breaks on several of them at low
water, they are not visible when the tide is high. These shoals consist of nine or ten
different j)atches, stretching from lat. 3° 4' to 3° 104^' S., and are 4 or A^ miles in
breadtii, at the south part, where, at the S. E. extremity, one of tlie patches is dry at
half ebb. To the eastward and southward of them, the soundings are irregular from
10 to 20 fathoms ; on the west side, the depths near them are generally from 22 to 28
fathoms, decreasing towards Banca, the bottom mostly coarse sand, shells, and stones.
To the N. N. Eastward of these shoals, between them and Pulo Leat, are the islets
which form Clements Strait, hereafter to be described. These islets, from their ap-
pearance and position, are respectively named as follows : Low Island, Saddle Island,
Sandy Island, and Barn Island, on the West ; and a little further eastward, Table
Island, South Island, and North Island.
Sandy Island, on with the eastern extreme of Pulo Leat, and the south points of
South and Saddle Islands touching, are marks for the N. E. extremity of these shoals.
DISCOVERY ROCK, on which a Portuguese ship from Macao was wrecked in Discovery
1816, and the Alnwick Castle narrowly escaped, by tacking on the edge of it in
5f fathoms, in 1810: but its existence was not exactly known, until Captain Ross
explored it in the Company's surveying ship Discovery, January 18th, 1813, and of
which he gives the following descri|)tion.
I once before passed very near the situation of this rock, without perceiving any
indication of danger ; but while passing at this time, observed a breaker, at low water
spring tide, which, on examination, was found to be on a sunken coral rock, in
diameter about 30 yards, having only 2 feet water upon it, with perpendicular sides,
as within a boat's length of it there are 7 fathoms water.
Although there was so little water over the rock, and a small swell at this time, yet
the sea did not break upon it above once in an hour. The depth about the rock is
184
CASPAR STRAIT.
Piilo I.cat.
Alceste Rock.
Coral spits
iiearPuloLcat.
To cuter Mac-
clesfield Strait
from north-
ward.
20 fathoms, but a rocky bank or ridge projects from it to the eastward about a quarter
of a mile, with 0, 7, 10, and 15 fathoms on its eastern extremity.
From the rock. Entrance Point bears S. 17° W., False Rocky Point, which is
situated between the True Rocky Point and Entrance Point, S. 22° 51' VV., Saddle
Island S. 59° 36' E., south point of Pulo Leat or Middle Island S. 80° 46' E., Highest
Tuft of Trees on Pulo Leat N. 89° 39' E., north end of Pulo Leat N. 59° 39' E.,
Hummock over Tanjong Brekat N. 18° 30' E., and it is distant 4 miles from the small
island that lies close to the west point of Pulo Leat, and 4 miles from Rocky Point.
PULO LEAT or PULO PONGOH, called also Middle Island, extending from
lat. 2° 49' to 2° 5' S., the principal island which separates Macclesfield Strait from
Clements Strait, has several hills, making it appear like different islands when first
seen ; it is of considerable size, and is surrounded by reefs and rocks.
ALCESTE ROCK, upon which H. M. S. Alceste struck, and was wrecked, 7 a.m.
February 18th, 1817, when returning from China with Lord Amherst and suite on
board,* is a small coral shoal, having about 2 fathoms water on its shoalest part at
low tide, from which part the west side of Caspar Island bore N. 8° E., North end of
Pulo Leat S. 40° E., and Saddle Island,! the small Jsland at the west part of Pulo
Leat, S. 5° W., distant from the nearest part of Pulo Leat between 3 and 4 miles.
This dangerous rock has close to it 17 and 18 fathoms water, which are the usual
depths to the northward between it and Caspar Island ; and although it lies in the
hitherto supposed fair track of ships steering down on the east side of that island for
Macclesfield Strait, yet to the officers of the Alceste it appeared to be only the outer
or N. Westernmost patch of the coral spits whicii project far out from the North and
N.W. parts of Pulo Leat, having gaps of deep water between some of them.
Great caution is indispensable in navigating these straits, as it is not improbable that
other sunken rocks may exist which have not yet been discovered.
Ships coming from the northward towards Macclesfield Strait, when N.W. winds
prevail, and strong S.E. currents setting through between Caspar Island and Pulo Leat,
in January, February, and March, should, if they do not pass on the west side of Gas-
par Island, borrow near its eastern side, and after rounding it, haul into the westward
for Tanjong Brekat, to counteract the S. E. current, and give a berth to Alceste
Rock : therefore, a ship should not approach the north part of Pulo Leat within
4 or 5 miles, until the small island at its western extremity bears to the eastward of
South, on vvhicli bearing it should be kept in steering southward for the narrow part
of the strait, formed by Discovery Rock to the westward, and the small island off Pulo
Leat to the eastward, the latter of which may be passed at the distance of 1^ or 2
miles.
I'anjong
Biciiat
TANJONG BREKAT, in lat. 2° 35' S., a long projecting point, with a hummock
close over it, is about 7 leagues nearly N. ^ W. from Rocky Point ; the coast between
these points forms a very deep and extensive bay, having in it shoal water and several
dangers, with three islands, already mentioned, at the southern part. About 4 miles
* Two of her boats, the cutter and barge, with Lord Amherst and suite, arrived at Batavia three days after
the loss of the frigate. The crew remained on Pulo Leat about fourteen days, and were taken off the island
by Lieutenant Davidson, who had been dispatched from Batavia in theTernate for that purpose. The Ternate
had much difficulty in entering the strait against the strong southerly current.
t Called by Captain Ross, West Island, and by the Malays, Pulo Chellaka, i. e. Misfortune Island.
CASPAR STRAIT. 185
to the S. S. E. of Tanjong Brekat, lies a 3 fathoms bank, which must be avoided, and Shoais near it
borrow not into the bay, in passing from Pulo Leat to the northward. About 4^ or 5
leagues inland, to the westward of Tanjong Brekat, there is a conspicuous mountain
on Banca, usually called Tanjong Brekat Mountain.
THE SHOAL WATER ISLANDS, in about lat. 3^ 20' S., are two small islands shoai water
close together, bearing about South 7 leagues from South Island, and about ^^'*"''*-
W. by S. ^ S. 5 leagues from the S.VV. point of Billiton ; they are surrounded by a
shoal, and other shoals project nearly 4 leagues to the southward, with breakers on
them, and are partly dry at low water.
The following islands, which lie to the south-eastward of Pulo Leat, form the south
entrance of Clements Strait.
Sandy Island, about 5 miles S. by E. from the south-east end of Pulo Leat, is small islands form-
and low, and about \\ miles E.by N. from it lies Barn Island. South Island, about enwlnce^of""
6 miles E. by S. from Barn Island, is in lat. .3°0'S., and North Island bears from elements
South Island North, about 2 miles. Table Island bears about E. \ S., distant 3 miles ^"'"■"
from South Island. The proper channel into Clements Strait is bounded by
these three islands to the eastward, and by Barn Island and Saddle Island to the
westward. Saddle Island, named from two hills on it, is about 3 miles to the S.E. of *
Barn Island, and 4 miles from South Island, with Low Island about a mile to the
westward.
Embleton Shoal, in lat. 3°18i'S., Ion. 107° 11' E., discovered in July, 1833, Embieton
by Ca])tain Spratly, of the ship York, is a bank of considerable extent above ^''°'''"
water, which bears from Shoal Water Island in the entrance of Clements Strait,
N.W. \ N., by compass, distant about 3 miles, and S. \ E. from the peak of Saddle
Island. Close to its western edge, and to the northward, the depth was 10 fathoms,
and there appeared to be deep water between the shoal and Shoal Water Island.
CAMDEN SHOAL, near the S.VV. end of the Island Billiton, appears to be a camden shoai.
new discovery, seen by Captain Clayton, on his passage from Sourabaya towards Sin-
gapore, in the ship Camden. July 24tli, 1833, intending to pass through Clements
Strait, be made Shoe Island, and steered N.W. to go between Shoal Water Island and
the long low Island,* oft' the S.W. end of Billiton. At ii\ p.m. Shoe Island bore S.E.
byE.; then saw islands bearing N.N.W., called Lestock Islands by Captain Clayton:
at 8 P.M. shortened sail and hove to during the night. At day-light, after making
sail, and when Lestock Islands bore N.E. by E. distant about (j miles, a shoal was
observed close to the ship, in extent about a third of a mile, having on its centre seve-
ral black rocks. By taking the relative bearings of the land, and the run to Shoal
Water Island, the shoal is considered to be in lat. 3° 26' S., Ion. 107° 30' E., lying
directly in the track of ships coming from the eastward towards Clements or Caspar
Straits.
LONG ISLAND, about G leagues to the eastward of Pulo Leat, and contiguous Long uian.i.
to the west coast of Billiton, bounds Clements Strait on the east side; it is of consi-
derable extent, with several islets and dangers surrounding it. To tlie southward of
it there is a group of low islands, and another long low islandf close to the S.W. end
of Billiton.
* This island is not shewn in the chart.
f This island is not shewn in the chart, but the coast of Billiton is stated to be but imperfectly known.
VOL. II. 2 11
ward.
186 CASPAR STRAIT.
liewiuRock ^^^^ GENERAL HEWITT ROCK, on which the ship of this name struck in
August, ] 8*20, on her passage towards China, lies in the fair channel, at the northern part
of Clements Strait. This rock was found to extend about a ship's length, and to be or
10 fathoms in breadth, the coral rocks visible under the ship's bottom, with 15 or 16
feet water over them at the shoalest part, and from 12 to 15 fathoms water close to it
all round. When aground upon the rock, tiie westernmost part of South Island was
just visible on with the west end of North Island, extremes of Pulo Leat from N. 67°
W. to S. TT^'W., Barn Island S. 34° W., the Mountain of Tanjong Brekat well clear
of the north end of Pulo Leat. The rock is 4 or 4^ miles distant from INorth Island,
and it will be avoided by keeping the high part of South Island open with the west
end of North Island.
Passage Excepting Macclesfield Strait, Clements Strait may be considered the best passage
cieTd'eM sfrait a"it»"gst the islands which lie between the S.E. point of Banca and Billiton, if a ship
to the north- keep iu the fair channel, where the depths are generally from 10 to 20 fathoms. But
care is required to avoid the following shoals, lately discovered near Shoal Water Island,
and the south-west part of Billiton ; and there probably exist other dangers here-
about not yet known.
If bound into Macclesfield Strait from the southward, to avoid the Fairlie Rock,
steer for the S.E. part of Banca, and having brought Entrance Point to bear about
North, or N. ^ W., steer N. by E. and N.N.^E. for the strait, keeping Entrance Point
to the westward of N. ^ VV. or N. by W. when within 3 leagues of it, to avoid the 2|-
fathoms bank ; or the highest part of the trees within Rocky Point kept open to the
eastward of Entrance Point, leads clear of the 2^ fathoms bank, and also of a 5 fathoms
bank, about 2 miles north of it. With a working wind, to avoid Vansittart Shoals,
do not bring Entrance Point to the westward of N.W. ^ N. until the Peak of Saddle
Island bears N.E. by E., or by keeping Pulo Leat a little to the eastward of North,
they will be avoided. When near the N.W. part of these shoals, the west end of Pulo
Leat may be brought N. ^ W., but not more westerly until South Island is open to
the northward of Saddle and Low Islands ; with the northern extremes of these,
and the south part of South Island in one bearing E. 19° N., is just clear of
the northernmost shoals. The S. Eastern extremity of Vansittart Shoals bears
S. i W. from Barn Island, and N. 33° W. from Shoal Water Island. The S. West-
ern extremity of them bears S. 20° W. from Barn Island, and N. 48° W. from Shoal
Water Island.
Having entered the channel, which is about 3 leagues wide, betwixt Entrance Point
and these shoals, a course should be steered for the small island at the west point
of Pulo Leat, to avoid the dangers contiguous to the Banca shore. One of these is a
bank to the northward of Entrance Point, but the reefs off Rocky Point are most in
the way of ships, particularly the following danger lying nearly in mid-channel.
H. M. S. Pylades, Captain Anson, in making the passage through Macclesfield
Strait in 1840, steered in for Banca Island well to the westward of Entrance Point, to
, avoid the Fairlie Rock and the shoals to the northward of it ; and passing inside the
two-fathoms bank in irregular depths from 10 to fathoms, rocky and hard sandy bot-
tom, coasted along at the distance of two miles until abreast of Entrance Point. From
off the point she then stood across for the south side of Pulo Leat, until the islet off
its western shore bore North ; then steering for it she ran along shore at the distance
of two miles in soundings of from 18 to 22 fathoms. In the narrowest part of the
channel, between Discovery Rock and the Islet, she had a cast of 14 fathoms, where
the chart shewed 19 and 20, and close to the rock 15. Fearing too near an approach
CASPAR STRAIT.
187
to this danger, she rounded to with her head towards Pulo Leat and sent a boat to
sound, but was quickly swept clear of the strait by the north-easterly current.
CASPAR ISLAND, or PULO GLASSA, in lat. 2° 20' S., Ion. 107° 6' E., or 14 Caspar island.
miles East from Batavia by chronometers, bears North from the eastern part of Pulo
Leat, distant 8 leagues, and lies about 5.j leagues N. E. by E. from Tanjong Brekat.
It is the principal mark in sailing to or from the northern part of these straits, for
avoiding the shoals, having a peaked hill on it, that may be seen about 10 leagues.
There is a rocky islet, with some trees on it, and rocks contiguous, distant about \^ or 2
miles from the west side of Caspar Island, which is on with the peak bearing E. 5° S.
CANNINC ROCK, first discovered in April, 1825, by Captain P. Baylis, in the Canning Rock.
Company's ship Canning, that ship having grounded on it during her passage home-
ward from China, is in the direct ?-t>M/e of ships proceeding through the Straits of Gas-
par, and is therefore very dangerous for large sliips, there being only 3| or 3 fathoms
water on its shoalest part. When aground upon the rock, tlie peak of Caspar Island
bore S. 78° W. distant 9^ or 10 miles ;
Tanjong Brekat
S. 04° W.
Tanjong Brekat
Mountain to the westward of Tanjong Brekat S. 74° W. ; Long Island S. 23° E. ;
islet off Long Island S. 16° E. : which makes it in latitude 2° 23' or 2° 23^' S., Ion.
107° 14' E., by chronometers. Mr. Smith, the officer sent to examine the extent of
the danger, found it to be composed of large patches of coral, extending about 100
yards in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and not more than 50 yards from East to West,
steep to, having from 17 to 20 fathoms water close to its edge all round. When
aground, the soundings under the ship's larboard fore chains were 9 fathoms; at the
starboard main chains 5| fathoms ; at the larboard main chains 3g; fathoms ; close
under the counter 4 fathoms ; and about 20 yards from the larboard quarter 3 fathoms,
or 19 feet water, upon a small patch. This danger not being visible from the main
top at a quarter of a mile distant, and being greatly in the way of ships approaching
the Straits of Caspar from the noithvvard, requires caution in thick weather. Vessels,
after passing the latitude of the Magdalen Shoal, ought to make Caspar Island bear-
ing \\ell to the southward, and then haul within 5 or tJ miles, or nearer, before it bears
W. S.W., in order to give a wide berth to this danger.
TREE ISLAND,* bearing from Caspar Peak S.W. by W. | W. distant 7 miles. Tree island.
is a barren rock, with two or three trees on its summit, giving it the appearance of a
ship under sail, and making it visible about 5 leagues. A reef extends to the north-
ward and southward from it about half a mile, and a rock, about the height of a long-
boat, lies the same distance from it to theS. Eastward.
There appears to be a great rise and fall of tide sometimes at these islands, for the Tides.
Vansittart's boat landed at Tree Island, and found a rise of about 3 fathoms perpendi-
cular, between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; and it appeared to be high water at 5 or 6 o'clock
in the evening, the moon then 1^ days past change. During the strength of the N.E.
monsoon, in the China sea, the winds betwixt Bauca and the S.W. part of Borneo
prevail from N. Westward ; and the current then runs along the east coast of Banca
through Caspar Straits to the S. Eastward, sometimes from 2 to 3 miles per hour. In
fine weather and light winds, a kind of tide is experienced in the straits, which is sel-
dom very regular.
Being in Macclesfield Strait, abreast the small island at the west point of Pulo Leat, Directions.
* There is a cave here, where the Malays come to collect birds' nests, which are also probably found on the
other islands. 2 B 2
188
CASPAR STRAIT.
Warren Has-
tings Shoal.
Directions.
at li to 2| miles' distance, steer about North, observing not to brinp; Tanjong Brekat
to the northward of N. PS'.W. ^ W., nor to shoal under 14 or 15 fathoms in tiie en-
trance of the great bay between it and Ivocky Foint. When Tree Inland is seen, steer
to pass to the eastward of Gaspar IslantI, at any convenient distance, from 2 or 3, to 5
miles, but not more than 6 or 7 miles at most, on account of the Canning Rock ; then
steer to the northward, observing not to bring Caspar Island to the eastward of South
while it is visible, in order to avoid the following shoals, which render the passage
to the westward of these islands rather intricate. The passage to the eastward
of Gaspar Island is usually chosen, for, excepting the Canning Rock, it is tiiought
free of danger from that island across to the isles which lie off the N.W. endof Billiton.
THE WARREN HASTINGS SHOAL is about 2^ miles in extent, nearly
N. by W, and S. by E., with only H fathoms on it in some places : the Warren Hast-
ings, when aground on a projecting part at its eastern edge, had the high land of
Banca bearing S. 58° W., Tanjong lirekat S. 22° W., centre of Gaspar Island E. 20° S.,
and Tree Island S. 17° E., distant about 7 miles. To avoid the shoal on the west side,
if passing between it and Banca, Tree Island must be kept to the eastward of S. S. E.,
■when Gaspar Island bears from E. by S. to E. S. E., or until at least 3^ leagues to the
N. Westward of Tree Island. Another good mark is, to steer to the northward with
Tanjong Brekat bearing between South and S. by W., and not bring it to the west-
ward of the latter bearing, when passing the shoal. Having passed to the westward of
the Warren Hastings Shoal, steer a North course from Tanjong Brekat, to pass be-
twixt the Vansittart and Belvidere Shoals.
Belvldere
Shoals.
Vansittart
Shoal.
Directions.
THE BELVIDERE SHOALS, the S.W. end, is in lat. 2° 15' S., and bears from
Gaspar Island Peak N. N.W. ^ W., distant about 10 miles ; they extend from thence
to the N. Eastward about 4 miles, being composed of several coral patches, having
from (J to 10 feet water on them ; and a Black Rock above tvater at the N. Eastern
extremity. The sea breaks on them when there is much swell, and they may be easily
avoided in day-light, with a good look-out, particularly as some of the patches are dry
at low water ; an American ship, however, was wrecked on these shoals, also a large
Chinese junk, part of whose crew reached Gaspar Island, and others, who were found
floating on fragments of the wreck, were saved by the laudable exertions of a country
ship belonging to Calcutta.
THE VANSITTART SHOAL,* in lat. 2° 11' S., bearing from Gaspar Island
Peak N.W. by W., distant 25 miles, and 5 leagues to the westward of the Belvidere
Shoals, is composed of coral rock, and very dangerous : as the depths on it are 3 and
3^ fathoms, and the water not always discoloured, the danger is not visible.
To pass betwixt the Belvidere Shoals, and the Vansittart Shoal, when Gaspar Island
is visible, the Peak kept between S. E. by S. and S. E. h E. will guide a ship safely
through ; afterwards, she should steer between N.W. by N. and N. N.W., to avoid
several other dangers near Banca, and the Magdalen Shoal to the eastward. These
shoals, to the northward and N. Westward of Gaspar Island, are mostly all steep to,
having from 17 to 20 fathoms water close to their edges, and nearly the same depths
* The Vansittart was lost by striking on this shoal, after having nearly completed a survey of Macclesfield
Strait, on her passage towards China, in 1789 : since Captain L. Wilson made that survey, other dangers have
been discovered ferther to the northward, which render the passage West of Gaspar Island unsafe in thick
weather; and it is not improbable that still more may exist in this dangerous sea to the' eastward of Banca.
NORTH-EAST COAST OF BANCA, — SHOALS. 189
in the channels between them : but in approaching the shoals adjacent to Banca, the
y,\atev gcneralli/ shoals to 12 or 14 fathoms, rocky bottom ; a ship, ought therefore not
to borrow under 14 or lo fathoms towards Banca,* after having passed Caspar Island,
if the passage to the westward of the outer or northern shoals is followed : this passage,
however, is not considered so good as that to the eastward of them and near to Caspar
Island.
THE MACDALEN SHOAL, discovered by Captain John Cowman, November Magdalen
24th, 1806, on his passage from China towards Wew York, in the American ship Mag- ^''"'''•
dalen, is one of the outermost shoals, to the nortiiward of Caspar Straits, and, being
greatly in the way of ships coming from the northward, requires a cautious approach
in tiiick weather. He was within half a cable's length of the shoal before it was per-
ceived ; it was found to consist of two patches of coral rock, about 80 fathoms in
length, and 15 fathoms in breadth, with deep water between them. The boat found
12 feet water upon them, although in some parts there may be less, and about lialf a
cable's length from the shoal there were 19, 20, and 21 fathoms water. Latitude
observed at noon, 1° 56^' S., the summit of Caspar Island Peak then in sight from
the deck, bearing S. by E., distant 10^ leagues. By keeping Caspar Peak S. ^ E. or
South, the shoal will be left to the westward in passing ; but Caspar Peak will not be
discernible from the shoal unless the weather is clear.
Captain Ross, in July, 1814, endeavoured to lind this shoal without success; but dur-
ing his survey of Caspar Straits, in 1818, he found, and explored it: it was ascertained
to be of small extent, and situated in lat. 2° 0' S., bearing from Caspar Island N. f W.
THE SEVERN SHOAL, discovered by Captain John Whetton, in the American sevem shoai.
ship Severn, from New York, May 23rd, 1802, is much in the way of ships running
from Pulo Toty towards Caspar Island. At sun-set, Caspar Peak bore S. E. f S.,
distant 4^ or 5 leagues ; from this situation they steered N.W. ^ N., 35 miles to day-
light, then struck on a coral shoal, and got off it on the following tlood, after lightening
the ship of 30 tons of ballast, and carrying out a bower anchor. The shoal appeared
to extend N. N. E. and S. S.W., about 2 or 3 miles, and on the rocky part, where the
ship groimded, there was only 10 feet, which was the least water found. When
aground, the lat. observed was 1° 40' S., the hills on Banca appearing detached from
each other, like islands, and bearing from S.W. by S. ^ S., to S.VV. by W. ; the moun-
tain Coonong Marass was seen inland beyond the other hills, and the nearest land
seemed distant about 7 leagues from the shoal. The Colombian, American ship,
belonging to New Y^ork, returning from Canton in March, 1824, in working to
the southward for the Straits of Caspar, grounded on the Severn Shoal, and bilged :
the crew reached Mintow on Banca, in the long-boat, after suffering much fatigue.
Captain Hall, of the barque Catherine, in September, 1840, when at anchor in 18 Hreakeisseen
fathoms water, in lat. 1° 31' S., Ion. 107° 1' E., saw breakers on a shoal bearing ^'^ Capt. Haii.
N. N. E. ^ E. from him, distant half a mile, and extending in an E. by S. direction, in
one continuous line for about 3 miles. f
* Although this caution has been hitherto thought necessary. Captain Robert Scott states that, in the ship
Warren Hastings, he hauled in with the coast of Banca a little to the northward of Tanjong Brekat, then
coasted along to the northward, keeping generally in 11 fathoms water, without perceiving any appearance of
shoals, or any danger except contiguous to the shore, altliougli a constant look-out w as kept at the mast-head.
There are, however, dangers in 12 or 13 fathoms, to the nortiiward of I'ulo Panjang, and off Tanjang Ryah,
shortly to be described.
t See Naut. Mag. for 1841, p. 521.
190
VEGAS SHOAL, to the nortlnvard of Caspar Strait, was discovered in September,
1820, by Captain Jose Antonio de Vega, of tiie Spanish frigate Vellos, which ship
^>truck and grounded on it, wiien bound to Manilla, and by carrying out an anchor
she was hove oft' the shoal. Its extent is little more than a ship's length, with depths
from 22 to 18 feet water, and near to it, soundings of 9, 1 1, 17, and 22 fathoms. Tiiis
dangerous shoal Captain de Vega made in lat. 1° 10' S., Ion. 106° 34' E., by chrono-
meter, measured from Gaspar Island, which he passed on the preceding day, and the
shoal bears N. 20° W. from that island, distant about 27 leagues, being much in the
way of ships, when running for the Straits of Gaspar from the northward.
Captain Ingram, of the Marquis of Hastings, saw this shoal, April 28th, 1832, and
thought it a new discovery ; he made it in lat. 1° 0' S., Ion. 100° 31' E., and Mr.
Harris, at the same time, made it in lat. 1° 4' S., Ion. 100° 37' E. : the mean of these,
and Captain Vega's observations will place this dangerous shoal in lat. 1° Of S., Ion.
100° 34' E. Captain Ingram found only 9 feet water upon the shoalest part, which
probably might be at low water spring tides ; as Captain Vega had not less than 18
feet; perhaps when the tide was high.
other shoals OTHER SHOALS, whose positions are not correctly known, lie nearer the coast
near Bmica. - ,' -ii -iii ■
01 Banca than those last mentioned ; these are avoided by not commg under 10 ratlioms ;
the bottom, in such case, will be mostly mud, but generally foul and rocky under 15
fathoms. The Sullivan, from China, hauling in to get a sight of Banca, December
2oth, 1784, during thick weather, after shoaling to 13^ fathoms, rocky bottom, saw
three shoals with breakers, one bearing S. S.W. three miles, one S. E. by S. three
miles, another E. N. E. about four miles ; and there appeared amongst the breakers
some rocks above water. These dangers seem to be about 4 leagues oft' Banca, and in
about lat. 2° 3' S., a little to the northward of Pulo Panjang ; but the weather being
very thick, the land was not seen at the time the shoals were visible. With the
small island off" Pulo Panjang bearing S. by W. ^ W., 5 miles distant, and the
eastern extreme of Banca, (being the toe of the mountain over Tanjong Brekat,)
S. S. E. ^ E., the General Elliott got entangled with shoals, and had 8 fathoms close
to them, in the situation described above; but as the Sullivan had deeper water, the
shoals seen by her may be others at a greater distance from the coast.*
The Hillsborough, returning from China towards Macclesfield Strait, by keeping
too close to the coast of Banca, struck upon a rock at 4 p.m., March 27th, 1788, hav-
ing only 3 feet water on the shoalest part; and when the ship was aground forward,
there were 13 fathoms at the main chains on both sides. After getting oft', she an-
chored in 14 fathoms a little to the westward of the reef, extremes of Banca from
W.N.W. to S.E., five small islands bearing South, and in about lat. 2° .3' S. ; the i)oat
on the south end of the reef bore from the ship about S.E., and when on the other
end, about N.E.
The five islands bearing South from the ship, when at anchor near the reef, must
have either been Pulo Panjang and the islet near it, or Pulo Colowy and the islets
contiguous, about 3 leagues to the south-eastward of Pulo Panjang; it seems, there-
fore, very probable, that the reef on which this ship struck was one of those seen in
the Sullivan.
* There appears to be some mistake in the bearings from the General Elliot here given, as they would place
her 20, and not 5 miles off the small island, near Panjang ; unless by the eastern extreme of Banca, then
visible, and here called " the toe of the mountain over Tanjong Brekat," was meant some hill 10 or 12 miles
inland, to the westward of that point.
BANCA, NORTH-EAST COAST. 191
A little farther to the northward, about 4 leagues off Banca, in lat. 1° 55' S., there
is a bank with overfalls, from 13 to 7 fathoms, and probably less water, over which the
General Elliot passed.
PALMER SHOAL is probably the bank last mentioned, and the following- de- Palmer siioai.
scription of it is given by Captain Boddam, of the ship Palmer. August 27th, 1811,
at 45 minutes p.m. the ship suddenly struck, having sounded about 5 minutes before
in 14 fathoms; saw discoloured water on both sides under the quarters, had tiien 10
fathoms by the lead, the ship having passed rapidly over the shoal ; next cast had 1 1,
10, 11 fathoms; then anchored, the wind blowing fresh from S.E. against us. When
at anchor, Tanjong Ryah bore W. N.W., distant about 5 leagues, the southernmost low
islands of Pulo Panjang S. S. W. f VV., distant 12 or 14 miles, the shoal on which we
struck bearing about jN. N. E. 2^ miles, according to the distance run until anchoring.
Diedsrika Shoal, with 3 feet water on it, in lat. 2° 3' S., and having 13 and 14 other siioais.
fathoms close to, is thought to lie about 3^ leagues to the N.E. of Pulo Panjang, and
5 miles to the southward of Palmer Slioal. About 4^ miles to the westward of Died-
srika Shoal is Robert Shoal, dry at low tide, with 10 fathoms near it, betwixt which
and Pulo Panjang, and from thence to the coast, there are numerous rocky shoals, with
from 7 to 5 fathoms water between them.
THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF BANCA was surveyed, and correctly deli- Northeast
neated, by the late Lieutenant James Robinson, in his excellent chart of the northern ™astof Banca.
part of that island. There are many hills along this coast near the sea, and some
mountains inland ; one of these is about 4 leagues West from Tanjong Brekat, and
about (J leagues to the westward of Tanjong Ryah, in lat. 1° 53' S., Ion. 105° 52' E.,
stands the double-peaked mountain, Goonong Marass, the largest on the north part coonong
of Banca. J>Utass Mom.-
From Tanjong Brekat, the coast in several parts is fronted by shoals 2 or 3 miles off
shore, and it extends in a W.N. W. direction about 14 leagues. Pulo Panjang lies Puio Panjang
about 2 leagues off shore, in lat. 2° 9' S. ; it is surrounded by reefs, and has the small ='"'1 '^""S''r*-
island of Poojoor near it on the east side, with a great reef and foul ground stretch-
ing 4 leagues in a south-easterly direction, upon which are several islands ; Pulo
Booar, or Colowy, in lat. 2° 17' S., is the easternmost of these, and N. E. by N. from it,
about 6 miles, lies Goat's Rocky Shoal of 1^ fathoms, from which Vansittart Shoal
bears about E. by N., distant 4 leagues; E. ^S, from Pulo Booar, about 4 miles dis-
tant, lies Horse Shoal, nearly dry at low tide, having 7 and 8 fathoms water between
it and the Sisters Shoals, which lie 2 miles E.N.E. from Pulo Booar, and are likewise
nearly dry at low tide.*
F'rom the point opposite to Pulo Panjang to Tanjong Ryah, the coast trends to the
northward, and is fortified by reefs and rocky patches to the distance of 2 and
5 leagues : Marawan river, called also Pancul Penaug, a place affording tin, is situ- Marawan
ated about W. by N.^ N. from Pulo Panjang, anil cannot be approached by ships
without great care, on account of surrounding dangers.
The following remarks have been furnished by a navigator of local experience. If
bound for Pancul Penaug (Marawan) or Batio Rousa Roads, you may approach Tan-
jong Ryah to 7 fathoms, Carang Blusor, which is visible from the deck 5 miles, to
5 or 7 fathoms 1^ miles distant; when to the southward of this rock you should stand
* Pulo Booar and Pulo Colowy are liere spoken of as the same island ; but, according to the chart, these
names are applied to difl'erent islands, the latter being in the position here described, and the former bearing
E. by N. 7 miles from it. The shoals here, named the Horse and the Sisters, do not appear in the chart. — Ed.
192 BANCA, NORTH-EAST COAST.
off no farther than 10 or 11 fathoms, and if clear, will see Pulo Panjang or Pnlo Too-
moosfere ; you may bring the extremes of both to bear South until the peak, which is
the north-westernmost of a range of inland hills, bears S.W. i W., then steer direct
for it till Pulo Talouwar is open to the westward of Pulo Panjang nearly its own
length, Pulo Panjang west point S.E. by S. You may anchor in 4^ fathoms, clear
ground ; the river will then bear W.i N., a range of rocks partly dry at low water to
the S.E., distant half a mile. Cood water may be got at Pancul Penang.
A brig, that .went from Mintow to Marawan for tin, got entangled in the numerous
shoals near tliat place, although she had a Malay pilot on board, and grounded on one
of them, which obliged her to lie near Pulo Panjang, distant about 3 leagues from
Marawan, where she received her cargo.
Tanjong Ryai.. TANJONG RYAH, in lat. 1° 55' S., Ion. 100° 14' E., bearing from Tanjong Bre-
kat nearly N.W., distant about 19 leagues, has two hummocks on it, and the coast be-
tween these headlands forms a concavity, with several islands in it, and the dangers
already mentioned.
Hick Rock Black Rock Reef, situated 4 or 5 miles to the southward and S.S. Eastward of Tan-
J^^'^S' riy^^h) is very extensive, with only 3 feet water, rocky bottom, in some places; but
there are also rocks above water on it about 14 feet high. This shoal, and also the
reef fronting Tanjong Ryah, have 9 and 10 fathoms water near them ; both were exa-
mined by Captain Waterman, of the ship Volunteer, in July, 1831. From the highest
rock of Black Rock Reef, Gooning Marass was open to the southward of Tanjong
Ryah Hills, bearing W.^N., easternmost hill of Tanjong Rvah N.W. by W., Tan-
jong Tuan N.N.Wll W., Songy Leat Bay (S.E. extreme) N.W. i N., Inner Pulo
Panjang S. by E., Outer ditto S.S.E.
.Songy Leat SONGY LEAT BAY, formed by Tanjong Laing to the N. W., and Tanjong Ryah
^^' to the S. E., has good anchorage and shelter from southerly winds. The Volunteer, at
anchor in 5 fathoms, white stiff clay, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore,
had Goonong Marass bearing W. ^ S., Tanjong Laing, the north point of the bay,
and Tanjong Tuan in one N. N. W., Tanjong Ryah Point S. E. ^ S., and Songy Leat
River W . ^ N. In entering the bay from the northward, care must be taken of a
rocky shoal, with only one fathom water on it, bearing about E. ^ S. 3^ miles from the
north |)oint of the bay ; and a 4 fathoms patch lies about 2 miles E. S. E. from the
same pijint. There is also a rock, with only 4 feet on it, which must be avoided in
approaching Songy Leat Bay. The marks for the rock are the Peak of Tanjong
Laing bearing W. by N., and Tanjong Ryah S. ^ E.
Fresh water is difficult to be got here, as boats can only enter the river when the
tide is high, and several straggling rocks fronting the entrance are then under water.
Wood may be cut close to the beach, and spars of any dimensions are obtained with
little difficulty in the south part of the bay, within half a mile of the shore. From the
river, which is in lat. 1° 50' S., nearly to the S. E. point of the bay, a fine sandy beach
lines the shore, the soundings decreasing gradually towards it, over a clear bottom ;
Tides. tjjjg {jjjy jj,^(^] |.},p adjacent coast alxjunds with fine fish. The tide rises 9 feet at full and
change of moon, and flows till 5 p.m. only once in 24 hours.
non\mard^'^ The coast about Pulo Panjang, and fntm thence to Songy Leat Bay, is dangerous
to approach ; but from the latter place to Tanjong Muncoodaitis more safe, as well as
from thence westerly to the entrance of Calabat Bay, where again it becomes danger-
ous, in consequence of the rocks near the islands at the east part of the bay.
Tanjong Tuan, in lat. 1° 38' S., has a hill on it, with several others inland, and may
BANCA, NORTH COAST, 193
be approached within half a mile ; it has a small island near it, called Piilo Ponigh, and
it bears from Tanjong- Ryah nearly N. N.W. i W., about leagues, the coast to the
southward of it forming a bay, with Pulo Simbang, a small island, about 2 leagues
S. S. Eastward from Tanjong Tuan.
TANJONG MUNCODA, in lat. 1° 28' S., is the northernmost point of Banca, and
bears from Tanjong Tuan about N.W. by W. 5 or 6 leagues ; it has a small island near
it, called Pido Muncooda, with a 2 fathoms shoal about 3 miles West from the latter,
and 1^ miles offshore. About 3 leagues W. by S. from Pulo Muncooda lies the en-
trance of Calabat Bay, having several islands in it, Pulo Punyosoo lying close to Tan-
jong Punyosoo, the point that bounds the east side the entrance. The bottom of
Calabat Bay is said to communicate with an extensive, lagoon, inland, in which there
are 10 fathoms water. Country ships anchor, to procure tin, at the entrance of the Anchorage in
bay, in 9^ or 10 fathoms, about 2 miles from Pulo Punyosoo, on with Goonong ^'^^'■^^'"^ ^"y-
Marass, bearing S. S. E. ^ E., Goonong Calabat S. S.W. ^ W., Tanjong Malaloo, the
west point of the bay, W. by S. ^ S., the hill over it, called Goonong IMalaloo,
W. by S. f S., and Pulo Muncooda E. i N.
Tanjong Goonting, in lat. 1° 43' S., forms the north point of SONGY BOOLOO
BAY, and is on with Monopin Hill, bearing S. S.W. ; it is about (J^ leagues to the
south-westward of the west point of Calabat Bay, and between them there are several
other points, also two islands, called Pulo Pamooja and Pulo Proute ; and two rocks, Rocks and
called Carang-Malan-Toole and Carang-Malan- Dooyong, which lie about a league off ""'"'*■
shore. Carang-Malan-Dooyons:, the easternmost of these rocks, is the largest, being
as high as a small vessel's hull, and bears N.W. by W. ^ W^ from the west point of
Calabat Bay, distant 4 or 5 miles ; and when on with Goonong Marass and a little hill,
it bears S. E. f S. Carang-Malan-Toole, about the height of a boat above water, is
3 or 4 miles offshore, and about the same distance W. by S. | S. from the rock last-
mentioned, and bears from Pulo Proute N. ^ E. Nearer the shore, lies another I'ock,
called Carang-Malan-Goonting, which bears from Pulo Proute E. by N. ^ N., and from
Carang-Malan-Dooyong W. by S.
The soundings about 2 or 3 miles outside these rocks vary from 17 to 20 fathoms. Anchorage to
and they are s^eep to ; but a ship may anchor to the eastward of tiiem, off Tan- of'thg^o^ks'^
jong Malaloo, in 13 fathoms, with that point S.W. by W. ^ W., Pulo Proute W.S.W.
SONGY^ BOOLOO, bearing E. S. E., about 5 miles from Tanjong Goonting, is songy booIoo.
the principal town near the north end of Banca, and is frequented by the country
traders : the bay is about 4 leagues in extent from Tanjong Goonting to Tanjong
Beeat, but has shoal water to the distance of 3 miles from the shore.
Ships in want of water may anchor under Tanjong Goonting in 5 or G fathoms, with
it bearing N. by E. ^ £., the S.W. extreme of the bay (a long, low point) S.W'. | W^,
and the watering place, which is about H miles inside Tanjong Goonting, N.E. by E.^E.
Or a ship may anchor in 5 fathoms, abreast of Songy Booloo, offshore about 3 miles.
THE MIDDLE PASSAGE, formed between Macclesfield and Clements Straits, Middle p.,.
was formerly adopted by several ships, but it is now little frequented, being more in- |"^it"%^;,',','''"
tricate than Macclesfield Strait. A ship intending to proceed through it should, in thence'into ti.e
coming from south-westward, steer betwixt Entrance Point and \ ansittart Shoals ^"'""" sea.
towards Pulo Leat, borrowing on the east side the channel until Sandy Island is ap-
proached. There are two shoals between Barn Island and the south-east part of Pulo
VOL. II. 2 c
194 CASPAR STRAIT.
Leat, and a passage nearly in mid-channel, by leaving a shoal on each side ; but the
best passage is to the eastward of them : keep therefore within a mile of the west side
of Sandy Island, and bring it to bear S.W. by S. ; by keeping it on this bearing, i)ut
nothing to the southward, you will pass clear to the eastward of the outer shoal, which
will be easily discerned by the discoloured water, for it is dry at low tide. Having
passed this shoal, a northerly course siiould he steered, keeping at least a league from
the east side of Pulo Leat ; if the weather is clear, Gaspar Island will soon be seen
bearing about N. by W. ; it should be passed on the east side at the distance of 2, 3,
to 5 or 6 miles. Whilst Gaspar Island is visible, by not bringing it to the eastward of
South, a ship will be kept in the tiiir channel to the eastward of the Magdalen Shoal.
Being clear of the latter, by sinking Gaspar Island under the horizon, if the weather
is clear, or getting into lat. 1° 50' S., a direct course about N. N.W. may be steered, if
bound into the China Sea, to pass between Pulo Aor and Pulo Domar, the latter
bears from Gaspar Island N. 19° W. (true), distant 110 leagues. The depths in this
track will increase from 18 and 20 fathoms near Gaspar Island and the adjacent shoals,
to 26 or 28 fathoms eastward of Pulo Lingin, and to 30 or 34 fathoms, in approaching
Pulo Aor, or Pulo Domar.
Clements CLEMENTS STRAIT may be adopted occasionally, if winds or other circum-
^"'"'" stances be favourable, although the preference is usually given to Macclesfield Strait.
If a ship, coming from the southward, intend to proceed through Clements Strait, and
the wind be at S. E., she ought to steer to the westward of Shoal Water Island and
the shoals to the southward of it, givingthem a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing : when
clear of that island, to avoid the south-eastern extremity of the Vansittart Shoals, she
must haul to the eastward until the peak of Saddle Island bears N. by E., then steer for
it, and pass mid-channel betwixt it and South Island, to avoid a reef, dry at low water,
distant 1^ miles N. E. by E. from Saddle Island.
There is a channel, about 2 miles wide, betwixt the N. E. end of Vansittart Shoals
and Low Island, through which a ship may proceed into Macclesfield Strait, or into
the Middle Passage, if circumstances should render that necessary : and in such case,
she may pass to the westward of Low Island, giving it a berth of 2 miles.
If the passage between Low Island and Barn Island be adopted, there are some dan-
gerous spots to be avoided, which extend from Barn Island nearly to mid-channel in
a South and S. by W. direction.
To proceed through Clements Strait, after passing about mid-channel betwixt
Saddle Island and South Island, a course about N. by W. or N. N.W. will be proper,
to pass nearer to Barn Island than to North Island, which track is requisite to avoid
a Sunken Rock about 6 or 8 fathoms in diameter, having only 1^ fathoms water upon
it, and 8 to 10 fathoms all round. Sandy Island shut in behind Barn Island, and half
of Table Island open with the north end of South Island, is on this sunken rock. The
passage between it and North Island is equally safe as that between it and Barn Island,
although not so wide, by keeping within a mile of North Island when passing the rock.
Saddle Island bears from the Rock S. by W. | W. 3| miles. North Island E. by N.
21 miles. Barn Island W. by S. 3^ miles, and it bears North from the reef that lies
about li miles eastward of Saddle Island. Having passed through this narrow
part of the Strait, with North Island bearing East or E. by S. 3 or 3| miles, a direct
course about North may be steered to pass on the east side of Gaspar Island, if
bound into the China Sea, giving a berth to the General Hewitt Rock ; and when clear
of it steer to the N. Eastward, if bound to the coast of Borneo, taking care to give a
PASSAGES FROM CHINA THROUGH CASPAR STRAIT. 195
berth of at least 2 leagues to the N.W. coast of Billiton, as sunken rocks are inter-
spersed throughout Treacherous Bay, whicli is situated between Long Island and the
group of islands at the N.W. end of Billiton.
If coming from the Eastward, and bound to the northward through any of these
straits, steer to make Shoe Island, which lies in lat. 3° 47^' S., Ion. 108° 2' E., by shoe island.
chronometers, from Batavia ; from thence, steer N. W.; which will lead you betwixt
Shoal Water Island and a long, low island* off the S.W. part of Billiton, where the
water will deepen to 22 and 24 fathoms, sandy bottom. If you make the S. E. part of
Billiton, coast along in 11 or 12 fathoms, taking care to avoid the Heroine Shoal and
the Camden Shoal, and Shoal Water Island will be seen bearing about West, 4
leagues distant ; the water will then deepen, and w hen Saddle Island is discerned to
the N. N. W., if bound through Clements Strait, steer to pass mid-way between it and
South Island, observing to give a berth to Embleton Shoal; but if Macclesfield Strait
is to be chosen, steer a little more westerly, to pass betwixt the north end of the Van-
sittart Shoals, and Low and Sandy Islands, keeping within 2 miles of the west sides
of these islands in passing ; then steer near the west side of Pulo Leat, conforming to
the directions in the beginning of this section, for proceeding through Macclesfield
Strait. It is sometimes very diflicult to get to the northward through any of these
straits in the northerly monsoon, and even so late as March, calms and faint airs, with
a constant southerly current, have been known to prevent ships from making any pro-
gress to the northward, and have obliged them to lie at anchor for several days
together. At this season it is improper to attempt the passage to the nortliward
through any of these straits; in a small ship, the passage close along the west coast of
Borneo ought to be preferred. The Grenville, bound to China, reached Macclesfield
Strait, February 28th, 1816, and met with constant southerly currents and N. JV.W.
winds, which obliged her to lie mostly at anchor, to prevent being drifted to the
southward, and she did not pass Caspar Island till March 13th; she saw the Great
Natuna on the 30th, and then proceeded to Malacca for a supply of water.
SHIPS from CHINA, intending to pass through Caspar Straits, may proceed by Macclesfield
the westernmost branch, called Macclesfield Strait, if early in the season : from Pulo .^o™';^' " mon-
Domar, a course may be steered for Pulo Toty, in lat. QP 58' S., Ion. 10o° 42' E., soon.
bearing from Pulo Domar, S. 0° E., distant 75 leagues, or 23 miles East from the
latter by chronometer ; if a southerly current is experienced after leaving Pulo Domar,
it will probahly set to the S. Eastward, as the distance is increased to the southward
of the equator ; for which allowance should be made in thick weatlier, when observa-
tions are not obtained, or when the wind draws to N. Westward. Pulo Docan bears
nearly S. W. by W., about 3 leagues from Pulo Toty, and the depths are from 20 to
15 fathoms mud, in a safe channel between them ; but pass to the East of Pulo Toty
at 4 to Ci leagues' distance, or even farther, if the wind should incline from N. East-
ward ; but it is often to the north-westward or northward early in the season.
Having passed Pulo Toty, from which Caspar Island bears S.E., distant 40
leagues, steer an E. S. E. course, to get on the meridian of the latter island before you
reach lat. 1° 50' S., in order to pass to the east of the Magdalen Shoal, and all the
dangers adjacent to the coast of Banca ; then enter the straits on either side of, and
near to, Caspar Island: afterwards, haul to the S. Westward, to avoid the Alceste
Rock, and pass on the west side of Pulo Leat, within 1^ or 2 miles, to avoid Dis-
covery Rock.
* This island is not shewn in the chart. — Eh.
2 c 2
196 PASSAGES FROM CHINA THROUGH CASPAR STRAIT.
The foregoing- directions are only applicable to ships which come from China very
early in the season, when N. Westerly winds often prevail, and then Banca Strait i»
preferable;* but the best route to pursue in general, particularly in the latter part of
tile northerly monsoon, when S. E. and Easterly winds are often experienced between
Banca and Billiton, is to steer for the North Natunas if net certain of the longitude,
and pass 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of them, and the islands which lie otl' tiie
western part of the Great Natuna, in order to give a berth to two shoals that lie from
2 to 3^ leagues S.S. Westerly from N. W. Island ; taking care to keep a good Jook-
I.OW pyra- out for the Lovv Pyramidal Rocks, in lat. 4° 8' N., Ion. 107° 27' E., distant about 12
inidai Rocks, jp^oues to the westward of the Great Natuna. From hence, steer to pass to the west-
ward of Haycock Island, to avoid the Diana Shoal, and proceed to the southward,
leaving Victory and Barren Islands to the westward, and Camel Island, St. Julian,
and St. Esprit Islands to the eastward, if the wind admit; otherwise, you may pass
through the most convenient channel between these islands, whicii are all thought to
be safe, with soundings from 20 to 35 fathoms. Having passed the St. Esprit Islands,
steer to fall in with St. Barbe Island, and pass it on the west side about 3 leagues'
distance; then steer to make Gaspar Island, taking care to get on its meridian, or to
the eastward of it, before passing the Magdalen Shoal, which should not be passed in
the night, as Gaspar Island is the only guide, in clear weather, to avoid that shoal :
the soundings in this track are generally from 20 to 27 fathoms. When Gaspar Island
is discerned bearing from South to S. S. W., steer to pass it on the east side, within
1 or 2 miles' distance, to avoid the Canning Rock, and to prevent being set over
towards the Alceste Rock and the reefs at the north end of Pulo Leat, and pass Pulo
Leat on the west side, within 1^ or 2 miles, and do not stand farther than 24 miles at
most from it in working, when abreast of the Discovery Shoal. A good look-out
should be kept for the Belvidere Shoals, in running to the southward for Gaspar
Island, as the rock at their northern extreme, or some of the dry patches, may be seen
in clear weather, if Gaspar Island is kept bearing nearly South, which is proper, to
prevent being carried to the eastward by the cm-rents.
Having brought the west point of Pulo Leat to bear N. by E., steer out of the strait
with this bearing, or in working, it may be kept between North and N. by E. ^ E.
If working out between the Vansittart Shoals, and the shoal patches off the South end
of Banca, Entrance Point must be kept between N. ^ W. and N.W. by N., or that
point bearing N. ^ W. to N. by W., is a safe guide with a leading wind. With either
of these marks, steer S. by W. until the low land that joins the hills on Banca is sunk
under the horizon; and to avoid the Fairlie Rock, sink Shoal Water Island by the
time it bears N. E. by E., observing that Entrance Point must not bear to the west-
ward of N. by W. when the distance from it is increased to 8 leagues. When this
point is distant 5^ or 6 leagues, bearing to the northward, a direct course maybe
steered to fall in with the Two Brothers, if N. Westerly winds prevail ; but it will be
prudent to make the North Watcher when the winds are S. Easterly.
Proceeding through Macclesfield Strait, when S. E. winds predominate, borrow near
to Pulo Leat and the east side of the channel, to be enabled to pass clear out, without
* The Bombay and Charles Grant, in company, homeward-bound from China, in December, 1817, saw Pulo
Aor ill thick weather, intending then to pass through the Strait of Banca ; but by steering a course to give a
wide berth to the Dogger Banks in the night, they were carried far to the eastward of Banca, by a strong
easterly current, having strong West and W. S. W. winds. They made Gaspar Island bearing S. by W., and_
anchored to prevent being driven farther to the eastward ; but the Bombay parted from two anchors in the night,
by the force of the short heavy sea. Neither of these ships was able to effect a passage through the Straits of
PASSAGES FROM CHINA THROUGH CASPAR STRAIT. 197
falling to leeward upon the 2^ fathoms bank, or the shoal banks and overfalls project-
ing from the south end of Banca. The soundings in the strait are generally 17 and
18 fiithoms in mid-channel, increasing abreast the west point of Pulo Leat to 24 or 28
fathoms ; from hence, decreasing to 12 and 11 fathoms, in passing out of the strait to
the southward of Entrance Point. The bottom in many places is mud, but often it
consists of coarse sand, shells, and stones, and in some places rocky, particularly near
the shoals on the Banca side. About 1^ miles westward from the small island Pulo
Chellaka, adjoining the west point of Pulo Leat, the bottom is also rocky and im-
proper for anchorage, nor should it be approached to less distance, on account of two
rocks, with only one fathom water over them, which are three-quarters of a mile to the
westward of the small island.
RETURNING FROM CHINA, late in the season, S. S. Westerly winds in the Passage from
southern part of the China Sea are likely to set a ship over to the eastward amongst Ihro"!h'cie'''
the islands adjacent to the coast of Borneo. Should this happen so late as May or ments" suait
June, it would be tedious getting to the southward ; in such case, steer for the N. W. J^*^"^'"''"^
end of Billiton, and pass through Clements Strait. The Island of Billiton is high
uneven land, and its coasts, which have not been well explored, are lined with many
dangers, and islands. The outermost island of the group, adjoining the N.W. end of
Billiton, is in lat. 2° 35' S., and bears nearly S.W. | S. from the Island Souroutou,
distant about 23 leagues.
Having approached the N. W. end of Billiton, which may be seen about 8 leagues,
give a berth of 4 or 5 miles to the group of islands contiguous to it, and a direct course
must be steered to the S.W., to pass the N.W. end of Long Island about the same
distance; for Tkeachkrous Bay, on the west side of Billiton, is very dangerous. Treacherous
having many sunken rocks at 4 and 5 miles' distance from the shore ; the coast is ^''>'-
barren and destitute of fresh water. The fleet, under Captain Clements, went into
this bay in search of fresh water, in July, 1781 ; and the Mansfield and Pigot both
struck, and lay some time upon the sunken rocks, N.W. Island then bearing N. 20° E.
6 or 7 miles, outer extreme of Long Island S. 50° W., Caspar Island N. 07° W., oft'
Billiton 4 or 5 miles.
After passing the N.W. end of Long Island, to avoid the General Hewitt Rock, a
S. S. Westerly course should be followed towards North Island, which should be
passed to the westward about a mile distant, to avoid the Sunken Rock 2^ miles
W. by S., from North Island, then keep nearly in mid-channel, betwixt South and
Saddle Islands. When through the channel between these islands, continue a south-
erly course, taking care not to bring Saddle Island to the eastward of N. by E., until
10 or 11 miles to the southward of it, in order to avoid the S. E. angle of Vansittart
Shoals ; then steer westerly to give a berth to Shoal Water Island, and the shoals to
the southward of it, and particularly to Fairlie Rock, by leaving all those dangers to
the S. Eastward ; when clear of them, steer a direct course to fall in with the North
Watcher.
Caspar, but were driven to the eastward of Billiton by the strong easterly current and westerly winds, and
both proceeded to the southward through the Carimata Passage. From hence, the Charles Grant worked to
the westward, and proceeded through the Strait of'Sunda; but the Bombay went through the Strait of AUass,
and they arrived at St. Helena on the same day.
198
BANCA STRAIT TO PULO AOR, AND RHIO STRAIT.
From Banpa
Strait to the
northward.
Seven Islands.
Pulo Docan.
WHEN clear of Frederic Hendric Rocks at the north end of Banca Strait, if
bound into the China Sea, steer N. by E. to pass between the Seven Islands and
Pulo Taya, in regular soundings, increasing from 7 to 12 or 14 fathoms as the islands
are approached.
In thicic weather, or in the night, the lead may be useful as a guide, to discover if
there is any oblique current, for the depth will generally decrease over a bottom of
ooze mixed with sand, towards the Sumatra Coast, and increase near the Seven Islands
over an oozy or muddy bottom ; but these islands must be approached with caution in
the night, on account of the rock near the westernmost of them, for the soundings do
not always point out its proximity.
PULO TOOJOO, i.e. SEVEN ISLANDS, lie in two groups, extending 7 or 8
miles in latitude, the southernmost group consisting of three islands. By Captain
Ross's observations, the N. Westernmost of these islands are in lat. 1° 8' S., Ion.
105° 24' E., or about 10 miles East of the meridian of Monopin Hill.* Some of them
are seen from the northern extremity of Banca, being generally high, and may be dis-
cerned 8 or 9 leagues : they are all covered with trees, except the westernmost, which
is a Barren Rocky Islet, with a small rock above water to the W. N.W. of it, distant
1 or 2 miles ; this renders a cautious approach necessary in the night, or in thick
weather. Pulo Docan bears about E. N . E. from the Seven Islands 4 or 5 leagues,
and the channel between it and them has 15 and 16 fathoms regular soundings. But
a rock has been discovered about Ij miles S. E. from Pulo Docan, upon which the
ship Mary, then on her passage from Mintow to Singapore,!" struck, in January, 1823,
although drawing only 10 feet water.
Pulo Toty.
Pulo Taya.
Ilchester
Shoal.
PULO TOTY, mentioned in the last section, lies about 3 leagues N. E. by E. from
Pulo Docan.
PULO TAYA, or SAIA, in lat. 0° 45' S., Ion. 104° 58' E., distant 34 miles
N.W. h W. from the N. Westernmost of the Seven Islands, bears from Pulo Docan
W. by N. ^N.; it is high, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues in clear weather, and
near it, on the N. East side, lie two rocky islets.
ILCHESTER SHOAL, to the northward of Pulo Taya, is much in the way of
ships steering from that island towards the east point of Lingin. The Ilchester, re-
turning from China in 1754, had thick weather after passing Pulo Aor, and in hauling
• Captain Ross, December 22ntl, 1812, by chronometers and cross bearings, made the N. Westernmost of the
Seven Islands ll^ miles East of ]Monopin Hill ; whereas, Captain Lestock Wilson's observations, in 1789, placed
the westernmost rock nearly on the meridian of that hill : Mr. Fulton, in 1821, made the N. W. Island on the
meridian of IMonopin Hill, agreeing with Captain Wilson.
f Communicated by Captain Norquoy, from that ship's journal.
FROM BANCA STRAIT TO PULO AOR. — ISLANDS AND DANGERS. 199
to the W. S.W., struck on a shoal, December 12th, at 4 p.m., on which were 2f fathoms,
sand and mnd ; she got off, by throwing the sails a-back, after being about 10 minutes
aground. When on the shoal, the weather was thick, but two hummocks bearing
N. N. Westerly, thought to be near the east point of Lingin, or the islands contiguous
to it, was the only land visible ; and by computation from the succeeding- noon obser-
vation, the shoal appeared to lie in lat. 0° 28' S. After anchoring near it on the west
side, in 18 fathoms, and weighing on the following morning, she steered S. S.VV. and
S.W. by S. a or 7 leagues, made Pulo Taya bearing S. E. Ijy S. about 3 leagues, and
passed to the westward of it; having experienced about 20 miles of westerly current
from leaving Pulo Aor.
The brig Tweed, in December, 1799, shoaled suddenly in working into Lingin Bav,
from 18 to 3 fathoms, hard ground, on the western part of the Ilchester Shoal, with
Pulo Taya bearing S. fW., distant 4^ leagues; tacked immediately, and steered
S. S. E., deepening to 8 fathoms ; then steered W. by S., and had overfalls from 20 to
10, 9, and 8 fathoms.
The Forth, in 1803, grounded on the west part of the Ilchester Shoal, with the
small island off the east point of Lingin bearing N. by E. ^ E., distant about 12 miles.
This danger was examined by Captain Ross, who found it to be in lat. 0° 26h' S.,
extending N. by E. and S. by W. about 2:^ miles, and hj miles in breadth, having one
fathom water on its shoalest parts, with Pulo Taya bearing S. 4 W., the islet off the
east point of Lingin N. by E., East point of Lingin N. ^ E., distant 8 or 9 miles. The
depth of water decreases nearly all around, from 18, 10, or 15 fathoms, suddenly to 5
and 3 fathoms on the edge of the shoal.
To avoid this shoal, the small islet off the east point of Lingin must not be brought
to the eastward of North, and Pulo Taya should be kept to the westward of S. by W.
in passing the danger: in coming from the northward, after passing Lingin Point, it
seems advisable not to haul to the westward to make Pulo Taya until near its parallel,
or after having passed lat. 0° 32' S.
LINGIN, or LINGA, is a large island, extending E. S. E. and W. N.W. about 16 Lingin.
leagues, the equator passing through it. There is a mountain on its southern part,
with two remarkable peaks (sometimes called the Asses' Ears) near each other, rising
like spires from its summit: the S. E. extremity of the island is also a hill, and being
joined to the high land in the interior by a neck of low land, is often mistaken for a
detached island; the S. E. point, called Tanjong Eang, is in lat. 0° 18' S., Ion.
105° 4' E., having islets and rocks around. The N. E. side of Lingin has several isies con-
islands near it, and those called the Dominos, in lat. 0° 9' or 0° 10' S., are moderately ''S"°"'-
elevated ; the outermost, or East Domino, bears about North 3 leagues from Lingin
East Point, and nearly the same distance from the opposite shore, having rocks pro-
jecting from it to the southward, and close to the eastward of it a depth of 14 fiithoms :
about 3 leagues off the N. E. part of Lingin, from 10 to 15 fathoms are the common
depths; and close to the rocks at the East Point there are irregular soundings from
14 to 22 fivthoms.
Lingin Bay is of semicircular form, exposed to southerly and easterly w inds, and Lingin Bay.
large ships are obliged to lie far out, on account of shoal water extending from the
mouth of the river, around Pulo Kelumbo and its adjoining islets.
Coming from N. Eastward, and bound into Lingin Road, a ship should round the To sail into
east point of the island at a moderate distance, then steer westward for the anchorage, i-'"e'" ^''"'''•
observing not to borrow too near the south coast, as the Stirling Castle was wrecked
200
FROM BAN'CA STRAIT TO PULO AOR. — DANGERS.
on a shoal that projects from the Third Point, counting westward from the east point
of tlie island, and which has 16 feet water on it, and 12 or 14 fathoms close to. If
coming- from Banca Strait, she should pass to the westward of Pulo Taya, and steer
for the high land to the eastward of Lingin Peak, giving a moderate berth to Pulo
Sinkep, which forms the west side of the channel ; in working, it may be approached
within 3 miles in 6 or 5 fathoms: the soundings are not always regular, but tiiey will
decrease gradually as the road is approached. The anchorage is 5 or 6 miles oft' shore,
in 5 or 4^ fathoms, mud, with Pulo Taya bearing about S.S.E., the east point of
Lingin East southerly, about 2^ or 3 miles to the S. Eastward of Pulo Kelumbo, a
small island that lies about 4 miles S. S. Eastward from the mouth of the river, on the
banks of which stands the town of Lingin. The country traders touch here at times
with opium, for which, in return, they receive tin, pepper, rattans, and some gold ; but
the inhabitants being treacherous, and addicted to piracy, caution is necessary, and a
ship intending to touch here must be well armed, and constantly prepared to repel
any assault that may be made by their armed proas.
Ships may steer for the bay, by passing to the eastward of Pulo Taya, the channel
being 4 or 5 leagues wide between it and the llchester Shoal ; in such case, borrow
near Pulo Taya, then steer N.W. by W. and N.W., afterwards more northerly for the
road.
Paiosinkep, PULO SINKEP, PULO SLIAR, and PULO POONOOBOO, form a group
isiands"^'^ of three islands, with some adjoining islets, stretching from the S.W. part of Lingin
or 7 leagues to the southward ; the channels which separate these islands being
narrow, they appear as one large island. Pulo Sinkep, the south-easternmost of the
group, is high, and is the largest island of the three.
Dassee Strait. DASSEE STRAIT, Called also Labooan Dadong, formed between this group
and the S.W. end of Lingin, is a short route from Lingin Road to the Straits of
Dryon, and has soundings generally from 7 to 14 fathoms; it may be navigated,
with care, in ships of moderate size. If bound from Lingin Road to the westward,
through the Strait of Dassee, steer out to the southward and S. Westward, till near
the N. E. part of Pulo Sinkep, to give a berth to the islets off Tanjong Datoo, the
west point of Lingin Bay, and the extensive shoal which stretches from thence to the
road. Having passed about mid-channel between the islets oft' Tanjong Uatoo and
those near the southern shore, steer for the S.W. Point of Lingin, and the depths will
be 12 and 14 fathoms near the islets and rocks on the south side the strait, and 9 or
10 fathoms towards the Lingin shore; the bottom hard in the eastern part of the strait,
and soft to the westward. Having passed the S.W. point of Lingin, steer about West,
in soundings of 1 1 to 9 and 8 fathoms, soft ground, and pass to the northward of
Wright Island, about 2 miles distant, in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms ; then steer to the N.W. for
the Straits of Dryon. Wright Island is in lat. 0° 15' S., and 2 miles to the North of
Pulo Selinsing or Green Island. These are the outermost islands on the south side
the channel, and there is a passage with 9 to 1 1 fathoms between them, and another
about 2 miles wide, with 10 to 19 fathoms, formed between Green Island and the
islands contiguous to the N.W. extremity of Pulo Sliar, which are fronted by a reef on
the north side.
Geldria Shoa).
GELDRIA SHOAL, or DOGGER BANK, was so named by Jurian Verburg,
who was sent in the Bark Ryder from Batavia, to examine Banca Strait, in 1761 : he
FROM BANCA STRAIT TO PULO AOR. — DANGERS. 201
had only 1 and 1^ fathoms water on it, coarse sand with shells, and 7 fathoms at its
extremity.
The Crown Prince, Danish Indiaman, struck on it in 1748, and had seen Pulo
Panjang about half an hour before, bearing N.W.by N. ; tlie soundings near it de-
creased from 25 to 24, 2.3, and 19 fathoms, coarse sand, close to the edge of the bank,
on which ripplings were seen when she struck. Captain Dempster, returning from
China in the Ganges, struck on it, at 9 p.m.. May 27tl), 1784; tiie helm was imme-
diately put down, and the ship came about in 3^ fathoms, rocks ; stood oft" N. E. by E.,
and anchored in 20 fathoms, sand, the water having deepened as fast as the lead could
be hove. At day-light, Pulo Panjang in sight from the deck bearing N.W. by N., two
small islands W. by S., with several small hummocks between it antl them, appearing
like low islands; the rippling on the shoal then S.W. about half a mile. The
danger appeared to be about a quarter of a mile broad, stretching E.N. E. and W. S.W.
about a mile, and having on it great overfalls from 2 to 6 fathoms ; the boat, on one
part, found only 6 feet, coral rock. At a small distance to the southward, the boat
had 17 and 18 fathoms, to the northward 20 and 22 fathoms, and IG fathoms close to
the shoal.
Captain Ross, in 1819, examined this shoal, and made it in lat. 0° 48' N., Ion.
104° 59' E., and its extent in a IV. E. and S.W. direction is about 1^ miles, having on
it from H to 4 fatiioms water ; 19 or 20 fathoms nearly close to the eastern part, from
8 to 11 and 12 fathoms irregular depths near the S.W. and western sides, deepening
to 15 fathoms close to the Boat Rock, which is formed of three low rocks, visible
about 4 miles from a ship's deck. From Geldria Shoal the Boat Rock bears
N. N.W. ^ W. about 2| miles, Ragged Island N. N.W. 8^ miles, Pulo Panjang N.W.
by N. 5 leagues, Saddle Island West 8 miles, and South Island, which has several
small islets near it, W. S.W. Saddle Island is in lat. 0° 48' N., and appears a double
hummock, bearing about West, when seen from Geldria Shoal. Ragged Island, in Ragged
lat. 0° 5(J|' N., Ion. 104° 50^' E., is small, but high, and may be seen 7 or 8 leagues in ^''*"''-
clear weather ; it lies about miles to the S. E. of Pulo Panjang, and is the eastern-
most of all the islands situated to the East and S. Eastward of the large Island
Bintaug.
FROM BANCA STRAIT, if bound into the China Sea, after having steered about Passage from
N. by E., and having ])assed between the Seven Islands and Pulo Taya, when 4 or 5 fj"l^^^^oToi
leagues to the eastward of the latter, steer N. N. E., keeping the east point of Lingin,
when seen, to the westward of North, to give a berth to the Ilchester Shoal, and to
cross the equator in 20 or 21 iathoms. From tlience steer about N. N. E., until past
Geldria Shoal, observing, in the night, not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms between
lat. 0° 40' N. and 0° 50' N., to avoid that danger ; but in the day, when Ragged Island
is seen, keej) it to the westward of N.W. by N., which will lead clear to the eastward
of the shoal. Having got into the latitude last mentioned, or in 24 or 25 fathoms
water, steer N. N.W. until in lat. 1° 0' N. : being then abreast of Ragged Island and
Pulo Panjang, a N. N.W. course will lead fair to the eastward of Pulo Aor, if there
be no lateral current, in soundings from 29 to 34 fathoms, fine grey sand, or sometimes
sand and mud.
TO ENTER RHIO STRAIT, when coming from the S. E. or Southward, pass Uhio strait.
along the east coast of Lingin at any convenient distance, in soundings from 14 to 18
fathoms, giving a berth of 3 or 4 miles to the islands oft' its N. E. part. Having passed
VOL. II. 2 D
202 nUlO STRAIT.
these, steer to the N.W. for Piilo Rodon";, which may be approached within 1 or 2
miles at the N. E. and north parts, in soundings of 10 to 12 fathoms : this ishind is of
consideral)le size, with a peaked hill situated in lat. 0° 25' N., and bears North from
the northern part of Lingin, distant 3 or 4 leagues. From abreast Pulo Rodong, steer
N. Westerly towards the entrance of the strait, keeping Table Hill (which is Hat at
the summit, and stands on the south part of Pulo Gallatt)a little on the larboard bow.
In entering the strait, borrow towards the islets near Pulo Gallatt, as the Topics, or
Five Islands, forming the east side of the entrance, have shoals extending 3 or 4 miles
to the S. S. W., and 1 or 2 miles from their western sides ; the soundings will decrease
to 8 and 10 fathoms inside, and in some parts to 5 J or G fathoms. When clear of the
Topics, which lie to the W. N.W. of Alligator Island (there being a passage, not so
wide as the western channel, between them), steer North, and then N. by E. for Rhio
Town, and pass between the island off the S.W. point of Bintang, and Pulo Sootoo,
the other island to the westward ; for shoals extend from the latter in a N. Westerly
direction, nearly to the west side of the strait, and a shoal mud bank projects from
it to the S. S. Westward. The S.W. point of Bintang Island, called Tanjong
Bintang, is 5 or 6 miles to the southward of Rhio, and after passing it, continue to
steer northward until abreast of Rhio Point, if to stop there ; the common an-
chorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms to the northward of the point, under Pulo Beringa, in lat.
0^ 57' N.
Poitot Kiiiu. RHIO was formerly a port of great trade ; but having suffered severely at various
times, by the requisitions of the Dutch, and piratical invasion, it affords few articles of
merchandize at present, and is not frequented, except by small country traders, for a
little pepper, or tin.
Fromuhioto DEPARTING FROM RHIO, and bound to the northward, avoid the shoal to
Singapore t^g westward of Pulo BcHnga, by borrowing on the east side the strait, and close to
PuloTercoli, the next island, as the rocky banks to the southward of the latter are
not always discerned. From the north part of the largest bank, dry at low water,
Captain Robert Scott had Bintang Hill bearing N.N. E. ^ E., the east part of Pulo
Tercoli, low and sandy, N. N.W., distant 3^ miles, west part of ditto N. N.W. | W.,
First Hill to the southward of the strait W. ^ S.
From the N. W. part of the bank, the east point of Pulo Tercoli bore N. by W.,
west point of ditto N. N. W., distant from this island not more than 3 miles, the first
hill to the southward of the strait W. ^ N., Little Luban N.W. by W. ^ W.,
Bintang Hill N. N. E. ^ E. These banks are very dangerous, particularly in coming
from the northward with a flood tide, if you do not keep near to Pulo Tercoli,
as the channel is greatly contracted by them, and the following newly discovered
shoal.
.MinervaShoai. THE MINERVA SHOAL, discovered by Captain Bell, in the Minerva, on the
passage from Port Jackson and Batavia to Singapore, May 27th, 1825, when at
10 A.M., with Bintang Hill N. E. i N., Pulo Luban W. by N., and Pulo Tercoli N.W.
^ N., distant H miles, shoaled from 5 to 3 fathoms at a cast of the lead, and grounded
against the edge of a shoal, composed of hard sand, extending about 200 feet in a
W. N.W. direction, and about 60 feet broad. The least water found on it was 2^
fathoms, hard sand, and all around 5 fathoms, soft ground.
Having passed Pulo Tercoli, steering westward, the depth will increase as Pulo
RHIO STRAIT. 203
Luban is approached ; and after rounding the west end of this island and Little Luban,
at a moderate distance, the course is about North, to pass nearly in mid-channel
towards the north entrance of the strait, till tlie Pan Shoal is approached, in soundings
from 10 to 20 fathoms. There are several shoals contiguous to the shores on each
side, whicii render it necessary for those unacquainted to keep a boat sounding a-head,
when sailing through this strait.
PAN SHOAL, situated at the north entrance of the strait, nearly in mid-channel. Pan shoai.
is the greatest danger, being extensive and rocky, sometimes visible at low water.
There is a safe passage on either side, but that on the west side, between it and Pulo
Battam, is not so wide as the other to the eastward between it and Bintang ; although,
with proper caution, the western passage might be adopted if necessary. When the
north extreme of Bintang bore E. by N., the north extreme of Pulo Battam W.N.W.,
Barbucit Hill N. ^ E., Pan Shoal was in one with Bintang Hill bearing E. by S. ^ S.,
distant about half a mile. Its eastern extremity bears S.-^ W. from Barbucit Hill,
and its western extremity S. by E. ^ E. from Johore Hill, and its centre bears E. S. E.
from the N.E. point of Pulo Battam. To avoid this shoal, it is best to proceed by
tlie eastern channel, keeping within 3 or 4 miles of the Bintang shore, in soundings
of 13 or 14 fathoms, to 18 and 20 fathoms towards the shoal ; and when the north
extreme of Pulo Battam is brought to bear W. by S., a vessel is clear of it, and is
entered into the Strait of Singapore. Barbucit Hill, kept North or N. :|; W., leads
clear of it to the eastward ; and Johore Hill, bearing about N. by W., leads clear of it
to the westward.
The IMinerva, in May, 1825, went through the western passage, and it was thought
safe ; but neither Pan Shoal nor the Battam shore ought to be approached too close,
as the latter, in some places, is fronted by patches of rocks under water, projecting
about 1 and H miles, with an islet and some rocks above water near the N. E. point
of Battam. The Dolphin, Captain East, April 18th, 1821, steering into Rhio Strait
by the western passage, saw two rocivs about 2 feet under water nearly close to the
vessel: she hauled out instantly, and had 3^ fathoms rocks, the rudder just clearing
them, with Barbucit Hill N. by E., a large dry rock S. S. W., Battam N. E. point and
islet in one \V. by N. i N., Pulo Luban S.S.E., north part of Bintang E. | N., Bin-
tang Hill E. by S. ^ S., Pan Shoal S. E. by E., off the Battam shore about H or 2
miles. These rocks appeared to be detached from the shore, and the Dolpliin in
hauling off from them deepened into 7 fathoms, then to 9 fathoms over to Pan Shoal.
The ship (jeorge Crutenden afterwards grounded on rocks a little farther to the south-
ward, Battam Point bearing N.W. ^ N., north point of Bintang E. by N. ^ N., Bar-
bucit Hill N. by E. i E.,"Pan Shoal E. ^ N., Pulo Luban S. S. E. | E., off the
Battam shore H or 2 miles: had only 2 feet water on these rocks at low tide, and 6
fathoms within them; the Crutenden lay 13 hours on the rocks before she was hove
clear of them.
Lieutenant Harding, in the ship Indian, May 14th, 1830, thus describes the shoal. Lieut. Haid-
" Weighed from under Luban Island, and passed through the Western Channel "lon'onhe''
between Pan Shoal and Battam Island, towards tlie Strait of Singapore, steering s'loa'
about N. N. W. M'hen nearly in mid-channel, about H miles from the Battam shore
and 1^ miles from the shoal, had soundings of 10 and 9^ fathoms, least water, as
marked in Horsburgh's chart, the shoal apparently about 3 feet above water; but
afterwards, when a boat was sent to examine it, the tide had flowed over it to the
depth of about 4 feet. When upon the western edge, in 7 fathoms water, the angle
2 D 2
204
ISLANDS, ETC., BETWEEN BANCA AND DURIAN STRAITS.
To return into
the Strait of
Rhio.
between Barbucit Hill and Battam Point, was 68° 18': wben upon the shoal, the
angle between the same objects was 70° 35', the bearing, as by chart, Barbucit Hill
N. I E., Battam Point W. N. W. Between Barbucit "Hill and Bintang Hill, the
angle was 101° 43', and between Barbucit Hill and Johore Hill 44° 30'. The shoal
appeared to be about a third of a mile in length, and parallel to the Strait of Rhio;
the broadest part fronting the Strait of Singapore."
To enter Rhio Strait from the northward, and to pass eastward of Pan Shoal, bring
Johore Hill to bear N. N. W., or Barbucit Hill N. ^ W., then steer South, taking care
not to bring the latter to the eastward of North; for in such case, you would be very
near Pan Shoal. Having passed it, and fairly entered the strait, the course is about
South to round Little Luban about 2 or 3 cables' lengths distance ; then £. by S. and
E. S. E., and pass at a small distance on the west side of Pulo Tercoli and Pulo
Beringa, giving a berth to the Minerva Shoal.
FROM BANGA STRAIT, THROUGH DURIAN STRAIT
AND PHILLIPS CHANNEL.
Strait of
Uurian.
Pulo Varela.
Islets and
rocks.
Channels.
ISLANDS, COASTS, AND DANGERS.
THE STRAIT OF DURIAN or DRYON, with the extended channel to the
southward, is above 40 leagues in length from Pulo Varela to the Carimons; and is
bounded on the west side by the coast of Sumatra, False Durian, Sabon, and the
contiguous islands ; on the east side, by the islands off the south and west sides of
Lingin, Great and Little Durian, and the adjacent islands.
PULO VARELA, in lat. 0°50' S., Ion. 104° 28' E., bearing W. | S. from Pulo
Taya, about 11 leagues, is of middling height, having a hill on its western part, which
may be seen 7 or 8 leagues. There is anchorage at the south-west side, and water
may be procured : but this ought only to be done in case of necessity, as the lurking
piratical proas have been known to assault and massacre the crews of boats sent on
shore to procure water at this island.* Near Pulo Varela, on the south and eastern
sides, are some islets and rocks, the largest of which is Anak Barellah, to the N. E.,
about a mile distant, having 7, 8, and 9 fathoms water between it and the principal
island ; and a mile North from Anak Barellah lies a rock, with 17 fathoms close to it,
having a channel 2 miles wide, with 10 to 16 fathoms between it and others, named
Mid-Channel Rocks, 5 miles N. E. by N. from Pulo Varela, or nearly mid-way from
the latter, towards the islets which front the south end of Pulo Sinkep.
The channels to the northward, between Pulo Varela and the small islands con-
tiguous to the south end of Pulo Sinkep, seem to be safe, with soundings from 10 to
16 fathoms, by giving a berth to the rocks and the islets which bound the north-west
part of the passage; but the channel to the southward of Pulo Varela, being wider, is
* The ship Hercules was attacked by seventeen large proas near this place, and narrowly escaped being
taken by them.
DURIAN STRAIT, 205
mostly frequented by ships. Tanjong Bon, which bounds it on the South, is in
lat. 0° 59' S., bearing S. by W. i W. 10 miles from I'ldo Varela, and, like other parts
of the east coast of Sumatra, is low land.
PULO SERAH, or REEF ISLAND, in lat. 0^ 38' S., distant about 5 leagues p^io Serai,. or
north-westward from Pulo Varela, is a flat, low island, sometimes mistaken for the i'""*'™''
latter, in coming from the northward. Some rocky islets, called Anak Serah, lie
about 2^ miles N. by E. from Reef Island, witli a safe passage between them, and also
between Anak Serah and the coast of Pulo Sinkep.
THE SPEKE ROCK, on which a ship of this name struck, bears S. E. from the speke Rork.
South Calantiga, distant t> miles, and W. | N. from Reef Island, having 10 fathoms
water close to it ; and a small black rock is sometimes visible, about the height of a
boat, over the submerged part. Betwixt the Speke Rock and Reef Island, and also
between the former and the Calantigas, there is a safe passage on the east side these
islands, by rounding the northernmost at any convenient distance, or about 1^ miles
ofl", in 6 or 7 fathoms. The soundings in this passage are generally from 7 to 9
fathoms, muddy bottom, sometimes sand ; but the western channel is preferable.
THE CALANTIGA, or ALLANG TEEGA ISLES, in lat. 0° 29' to 0°.3U' S., caiantiga.
Ion. 104° 5' E., bearing nearly N.W. by W. from Pulo Varela, distant 10 leagues,
extend from their south extreme about 3 miles nearly N. by E. ^ E., having some islets
contiguous to them. The three principal islands are high, and may be seen 8 leagues,
and the others 4 or 5 leagues from the deck. There are 7 fathoms close to these
islands, and half a mile off the north end of the southernmost lie two rocks, each
about the size of a long-boat : when bearing N. N. E. and N. by E., the islands are in
one with each other, and they open when the southernmost bears N. by W. ^ W.
Having approached these islands, they may be passed on the west side at 1 or 2 miles' Directions.
distance ; the depths will be mostly from G^ to 8 or 9 fathoms, mud, in the fair channel :
in working, the coast may be approached to 6 fathoms, and from this depth to 8 or 9
fathoms towards the islands is a fair track, although the soundings are not always
regular, 7 fathoms being the general depth directly West from the islands until near
the main land.
TANJONG BASSOO, or BACCOWN, in lat. 0° 20' S., Ion. 103° 48' E., distant Tanjong
19 miles N.W. by W. from the Calantigas, projects for out to the eastward from the ^''''""•
other low land, by which the Bay of Indigiri is formed on the North, between it and
Tanjong Barroo; the River Indigiri runs through several channels into this bay, and
is fronted by an extensive shoal, which fills the southern part of the bay. The outer
edge of this shoal extends from Tanjong Bassoo in a N. N. E. and N. by E. direction
full 3 leagues, being very steep to, having 10 or 11 fathoms within half a mile of it in
some places, then (juickly 5 or 4 fathoms, to 1^ or 1 fathom upon it ; which requires
great attention to the lead, when approaching this part of the coast in the night.
TANJONG BARROO, or UATTOO, in lat. 0° I' N., bearing from Tanjong
Bassoo North a little easterly, distant 7 leagues, forms the northern boundary of
Indigiri Bay, and may be ap|)roache(l within \^ miles occasionally in working, or to
8 or .9 fathoms. Prom this low headland the coast stretches N. by W. and N. N. W.
towards the Strait of Durian, fronted by a shoal bank, which may be approached
206
DURIAN STRAIT.
Three Bro-
thers.
by the soundings, as from its edge they gradually decrease on it to 6, 5, 4, and
3 fathoms.
THE THREE BROTHERS extend nearly North and South about G miles: the
southernmost being the largest and highest, about a mile in lengtii, may be seen at (i
leagues' distance, and lies in lat. 0° 32' "N., Ion. 103° 48' E. : there is a white clifl' or
rock on the N. E. side, which makes this island remarkable. The Middle Brother is
not so high as the southern one, which from its north point lies North about 1^ miles.
Tlie North Brother is smaller and lower than the others, and is sometimes called the
Round Brother: it lies to the N. N. Westward of the middle one about 3 miles; and
betwi.xt them there is a safe passage, with 11 to 17 fathoms water, now frequently
used. Ships passing through it should haul close round the Middle Brother, to give a
berth to the rock appearing above water, at the extremity of a reef of straggling rocks
that projects from the North Brother about a mile to the south-east, and is partly dry
at low water ; but there are gaps of deep water between the rocks in some parts.
Between the South and Middle Brother there is also a safe passage, about two-
thirds of a mile wide, with soundings from 9 to 12 or 13 fathoms ; both these islands
may be approached pretty close all round, except at the south point of the South Bro-
ther rocks project considerably.
EASTERN BANK, bounding the channel to the eastward of the Brothers, is
composed of hard sand, having irregular depths from 6 to 4, 3, 2, and H fathoms,
with 10 and 12 fathoms close to its western edge. From the North Brother, its
southern extremity bears East southerly about 5 miles, and its western edge extends
from thence about N. by W. ^^ W. three miles, rounding afterwards to the North and
North Eastward.
Great and
Little Durian.
To sail towards
the Biotliers.
GREAT AND LITTLE DURIAN,* or DRYON, lying about N. by W. and
N. N.W. from the Brothers, and separated from each other by a narrovv creek, are two
high islands, bounding the straits on the north-east side. False Durian is to the
westward of the North Brother, and with the contiguous islets bounds the straits on
the S.W. side ; it has a peak on it, but the conical peak of Great Durian, being higher
than any of the other land, is first discerned in coming from the southward.
As the islands hereabout have a similar appearance, strangers ought to be careful,
in coming from the southward, not to mistake one for the other, for some ships have
not been able to discern the proper passage.!
When the Peak of Great Durian is seen bearing about N. ^ W., or N. by W., a
ship will be in the fair track, and should steer for the South Brother, which in one
witli Great Durian Peak bears N. by W. The channel betwixt the eastern bank and
the North Brother is about 4 miles wide, having various depths from 15 and 16 to 10
or 11 fathoms. The channel to the westward of the Three Brothers, betwixt them
and False Durian, has from 8 to 14 fathoms water, and is equally safe as that to the
eastward of them, although not so wide.
* Great Durian is called Pulo Sanglar by the Malays.
t H M.S. Buffalo, in October, 1803, coming from the southward, and not being able to discover the proper
passage, got to the eastward of Great Durian, then stood to the northward amongst the islands, betwixt
Durian and Pulo Mogo to the westward, and Pulo Soogee to the eastward, through Salat Mogo, a safe passage
with regular soundings, 6 fathoms, mud, the least water ; although no navigable passage amongst these islands
to the eastward of Durian was formerly thought to exist.
DURIAN STRAIT. 207
SABON is the principal island on the west side the channel, and lies nearest to Sabon and the
Great Carimon, but the whole of the western shore from False Durian to the Cari- tiamu!
raons, formed of numerous low islands, is generally called the Sabon shore; for they
are separated from Sabon, and from each other, only by very narrow channels, and
therefore appear as one continued island ; of tliese, Pulo Booroo, fronting the Sabon
shore, is the largest, having Pulo Pandan, two small islands, about a mile to the north-
ward of it, and near to the N. E. end of Sabon.
Rocks, partly dry at lialf-tide, project from the Sabon shore about half a mile, with
Sabon Hill bearing West to W. ^ N. ; these are easily avoided by edging out a little.
Sabon hill cannot easily be mistaken, being the only hill on the west side the channel
to the southward of Great Carimon, which island has on it two high peaked hills, and
the Little Carimon 07ie. The latter is the northernmost of the islands on the west
side the channel, and together with the Great Carimon are much higher land than
any of the islands to the southward. All the islands adjacent to the Strait of Durian
are covered with trees, and the whole of the N. E. part of Sumatra is woody and low
land.
The bank of sand oft' the south end of Great Carimon extends N.W. by N. about sand Banks.
5 miles, with 4 and 4^ fathoms on it in most places, and 2f on the western part ; be-
twixt which and the shore there are 5^, 6, and 7 fathoms. About 2 miles S. E. from
the S. E. point of Little Carimon there are 3f fathoms on another bank, which
stretches in a S.E. direction, nearly joining to the former bank, and the general depths
on it are from 4 to 5 fathoms.
THE STRAITS of SABON and MANDOL are very intricate, and are never straits o.
attempted by European navigators. The foi-mer is contiguous to the west sides of MaiXr
False Durian, Sabon, and the Great Carimon ; that of Mandol is along the Sumatra
coast, having part of this coast, the Islands Mandol, and Pantjoor, and the entrance
of Brewers Strait on the west side, and several islets and reefs on the east side, hich
separate it from Sabon Strait. As both these straits are bordered by reefs, with shoal
water in some places, they appear to be only navigable by proas or small vessels.
BREWERS STRAIT, or SALAI^ PANJANG, is a narrow arm of the sea, which Bre^versst,a;t.
extends from the above described straits to the westward, and joining Siak River, falls
into Malacca Strait nearly opposite the town oftliatname. The coast of Sumatra, to the
westward of the Carimons, is thus formed of several islands, which are considered by
navigators as the main land. Although Brewers Strait is narrow, there is good depth
of water in it, but it is only navigated by the country proas.
Pulo Booroo is a low island, about 4^ miles in length, crowned with high trees, and i'">" Boor«o.
having a few inhabitants, who collect great quantities of mangostans, durians, and
other fruits, which flourish here in a wild and luxuriant state. Fresh water may also
be got with convenience. From Pulo Pandan, a bank extends along the eastern Bank.
shore of Pulo Booroo to the distance of about three-quarters of a mile, with several
rocky reefs on it, dry at low tide ; here the soundings are very irregular.
MIDDLEBURG SHOAL, lying nearly mid-way between Red Island and the j^™""^'
bank of Sabon Island, is a reef of coral rocks, 300 yards in extent, of circular form,
partly dry, about one foot above the sea at low water spring tides, its sides being
almost perpendicular, with 7 and 9 fathoms close to the rocks, and from 17 to 20
fathoms about 200 yards oft'. When on the centre of the shoal, Passage Islands were
208
DURIAN STKAIT.
Passage East
or it.
Rocky Patch.
lied Island.
Tides.
Rocks.
Rocky Islet.
Twins.
Rocky Shoal.
Dolpliin
Island.
.Shoal.
Tides.
in one, their east ends bearing S. .33° 15' E. by theodolite; a rocky islet, with a tree
on it, oft' tlie north end of Red Island, nearly on with the north brow of the North
Twin ; the Twins open to the northward of Red Island, the south end of Red Island
N. 75° 57' E. ; Sabon Hill N. 74° .3<)' W. ; Clay Island W. 1° 42' N. ; Pealc of Great
Diirian S. 47° 42' E., and the Peak of False Diirian S. 27° 14' E.
The passage between Middleburg Shoal and the patch of rocks off the west end of
Red Island is 2\ miles broad, with irregular soundings from 16 to 22 fathoms : witii a
fair wind, the best leading mark is, to keep the east end of North Passage Island on
with the Peak of False Diirian, and stand no nearer Middleburg Shoal tiian to bring
the east end of North Passage Island on with the west end of South Passage Island,
nor nearer to Red Island than one mile, when the west end of South Passage Island
will be on with the peak of False Durian, in 25 or 27 fathoms.
The small patch of rocks, half a mile W. by S. from the south end of Red Island, is
dry at low tide, with deep water all round, and between it and the island. When on
the centre of the patch, the N. W. brow of Red Island is on with the south end of the
North Twin, and the east end of South Passage Island very little to the eastward of
the peak of False Durian.
RED ISLAND, by observations taken upon it, is in lat. 0° 51' N., Ion. 103° .39' E.,
or 3° 17' East from Prince of Wales Island by chronometers. Variation by
Theodolite ]°56'E. High water at 10 hours on full and change of moon, and
the tide rises 10 or 11 feet. This island is oblong, covered with trees, of moderate
height, and may be seen 15 miles. The passage between it and the Twins ought
not to be attempted, for in mid-channel lies a dangerous rock, level with the sur-
face of the sea at low water spring tides, and the soundings are irregular, affording
no guide. When upon this rock, the N. E. end of Red Island is on with the South
Peak of Great Carimon, and the centre of the Twins N. f E. From the west end of
Red Island, North a quarter of a mile, there is a small rocky islet with a tree on it,
surrounded by rocks dry at low water, between which and Red Island there are depths
of 15 and 16 fathoms.
The Twins, two small round islands, lying a little more than a mile to the N. E.
of Red Island, bear N. N. E. and S. S. W. of each other, and are of moderate height.
Distant three-quarters of a mile to the N.W. of the North Twin lies a dangerous and
extensive rocky shoal of coral, dry at low water spring tides, having from 10 to 17
fathoms all round : when upon it. North Passage Island bore South, the N.W. end of
Dolphin Island, a rocky point, was a little to the westward of the Peak of Great
Durian, and the east end of Red Island S. by W.
Dolphin Island is about 1^ miles in extent,* fronted by a coral reef projecting 200
yards from it to the westward, near to which the water deepens irregularly from 13 to
20 fathoms. There is a shoal to the westward of Dolphin Island, 400 yards in extent,
of an oval form, steep all round, and dry at low water spring tides. When on the
centre of this shoal, the south end of Red Island bore N. 20° 48' W. by theodolite,
the centre of North Passage Island S. 4° 17' W., the S.W. point of Dolphin Island on
with a sandy point of Pulo Mogo, Sabon Hill N. 74° 21' W,, distant from Dolphin
Island one mile.
Throughout these straits the tides are very irregular, rendering it difficult to ascer-
tain either their direction or velocity. In August and September, the rise and fall was
* The north end of Pulo Mogo approaches near to Dolphin Island^ from whence it extends S. Eastward
nearly to Great Durian, it being, a high large island.
PHILLIPS CHANNEL. — DURIAN STRAIT. 209
found generally to be between 10 and 11 feet, sometimes runnin;^ from 3 to 4 knots
per hour during the springs, at other times, not more than 2^ knots at the same period.
This irregularity appears to be produced by the prevailing winds in the north or south
entrance of the straits, forcing the tides through in one direction, for 12 or 18 hours at
a time, although the rise and fall on the shore was regular. But sometimes the tides
run with regularity.
The ripplings might be alarming to a stranger ; they appear to be caused by the Rippiiiigs
uneven bottom, and the resistance the tides meet with from the steep reefs and
numerous small islands.
PHILLIPS CHANNEL, or the N. E. ENTRANCE of the STRAITS of Phimp.
DURIAN, formed between the numerous islands fronting Pulo Battam to the S. E., ^'"'""'''■
and Long and Round Islands to the N. W., ajjpears to be free from danger, with good
anchorage, and is a short route for vessels proceeding to or from Singapore. Long
and Round Islands, being lined by rocky reefs, ought not to be approached under Directions.
three-quarters of a mile : if standing to the westward of the south end of Round
Island, a ship should go no farther in that direction than to bring the N.W. end of
Long Island on with the centre of the Rabbit, as four rocky reefs lie to the S.W. of
Red Island. When upon the S. E. end of the southern one. Red Island is in one with
the Rabbit, and the centre of Round Island bearing E. 5° S. : between the latter
island and these shoals tlie soundings are irregular.
Cap Island, named from its appearance, is a rock, about 40 feet in height, with a Cap island. ,
flat top, and perpendicular sides, surrounded by a reef to the distance of about .300
yards, near to which the depths are 10 and 11 fathoms, witli 14 fathoms a little farther
out. It would be imprudent to pass to the eastward of Cap Island, as a reef of rocks
is situated between it and the bluft' headland to the eastward.
Pulo Doncan, about 4 miles to the southward of Cap Island, are two low woody Puio Doncan.
islands, fronting a deep bay, which is formed by a group of beautiful islands, some of
which are inhabited : as Pulo Doncan is surrounded by reefs, it ought not to be ap-
proached nearer than a mile.
TREE ISLAND, or REEF, at the western entrance of the Straits of Singapore, is XreeisUnd.
formed of sand and rocks, with two bushes or small trees on it, which are all that is
visible at high water spring tides, as the sand is then overflowed. The reef projects
from it to the N.W. nearly a mile, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to the rocks. From
the south brow of the Rabbit, oft' Barn Island, the N. VV. part of the reef oft' Tree
Island is on with the North Peak of the Great Carimon bearing S. 80° W. Between
Tree and Red Islands there are two sunken rocks, that nearest Tree Island being Sunken uocks.
distant one mile from the S. E. Tree, and bearing E. f S. from that tree, and from
Red Island N.W. by VV. nearly 2 miles, the north end of tlie latter being on with the
north end of Long Island, and the south brow of the Rabbit bears E. by N. f N.from
this rock, which is about 30 or U) feet in circuit, with not more than 3 feet on it at
low water spring tides: the depths close to it are from 7 to 10 fathoms, and a little
way oft' it from 15 to 20 fathoms.
The other, thought to be the Kent Rock, is longer than the former, distant
from it half a mile, and has 1^ fathoms on it at low water spring tides ; from which
the S. E. tree on Tree Island bears N. f W. about \^ miles, the centre of Red Island
on with the north end of Long Island S. E. by E., and the south brow of the Rabbit
N. E. by E. I E. : the soundings near it are from 5 to 10 fathoms, deepening quickly
VOL. II. 2 E
210 PASSAGE TO THE NORTHWARD THROUGH DURIAN STRAIT.
to 15 and 16 fathoms. The places of these rocks may easily be perceived when the
tides run strong, by the strong rij)plings over them ;* observing that the danger lies in
the smooth part, close to the break of the rippling. These rocks render the passage
between Tree Island and Red Island narrow and unsafe ; it ought not to be attempted.
DIRECTIONS.
FromBanca DEPARTING FROM BANCA STRAIT, and being abreast of Batacarang
1",""''"" i'oint in 7 fathoms, bound to the Strait of Durian, a N.N.W. i W. course should be
steered towards Pulo Varela, distant about 22 leagues ; but the bank along the Su-
matra coast in this space being very flat, the soundings are usually the best guide, by
keeping in from 5| to 7 fathoms ; and in working, the coast may be approached to
Tides. 5 fathoms. The tides near the shore are generally strong ; in the offing they are irre-
gular, and currents sometimes prevail.
In passing through the south channel, between Pulo Varela and Tanjong Bon, keep
in 11 or 12 fathoms towards Pulo Varela, to give a berth to the bank of hard ground
projecting from Tanjong Bon, and from thence along tlie coast to the westward, which
is steep from 6 or 5 fathoms ; but in working, it may be approached occasionally, with
care, to 8 or 7 fathoms. Being through the narrow part of the passage between Tan-
jong Bon and Pulo Varela, which is about (i or 6^ miles wide, a course N.W. by W.
should be steered for the Calantigas, keeping along the coast in 9 to 12 fothoms; with
a working wind, the Sumatra coast may be approached to 6 or 7 fothoms. In this
Tides. track attention to the tides is indispensable, for they are often irregular, sometimes
setting out of Jambee River to the N. Eastward 2^ or 3 miles per hour : and the Coast
Bank to the westward of Tanjong Bon, to the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, is nearly dry
at low spring tides in some places, 4 or 5 miles from the shore.
When steering towards the Calantigas, the southernmost of these islands must not
be brougiit more westerly than N.W. by N. until Reef Island is bearing to tlie south-
ward of E. by S. to avoid the Speke Rock.
Having passed the Calantigas, a course about North and N. | W. should be steered
for the southernmost of theTliree Brothers, bearing from the Calantigas N. by W. i W.
distant about 22 leagues: the Sumatra coast may be approached in working to 8 or
9 fiithoms in some places ; but the spit that stretches out from Tanjong Bassoo to the
N. Westward of the Calantigas, being steep to, ought to have a berth in passing.
The best guide is to keep in 14 to l(j fathoms, taking care not to deepen above 18 or
19 fathoms to the eastward, particularly as the distance from the Calantigas is in-
creased, for the ground on that side is foul, and improper for anchorage.
Eastern TO ENTER the Strait of Durian by the EASTERN CHANNEL, a berth of
Channel. j ^^. ^ j^^jj^g i^^^y be given to the South and Middle Brothers, by rounding them in
10 or 12 fathoms, and on drawing near the North Brother, give a proper berth to the
reef that projects from it to the south-eastward, taking care not to stand far over
towards the Eastern Shoal. Tliis will not be approached too close, if the beach on
the Middle Brother be kept well in sight from the deck ; or in working, if you get on
the edge of the overalls in standing to the eastward, immediately tack, and stand
towards the Brothers to 10 or 11 fathoms. When the southern point of Great or South
Duriau is approached, three islets near it, called the Tombs, will be discerned, and
Sabon Hill, bearing about W. by N. f N., making like two islands, which may be
* Small fishing boats may often be seen on these rocks.
PASSAGE TO THE NORTHWARD THROUGH DURIAN STRAIT. 211
mistaken for the Cariraons. Having passed the North Brother on the east side, at H
or 2 miles' distance, haul to the westward, giving a berth of 1 or H miles to theTonihs
and the southern part of Durian, as some rocks under water lie rather more than half
a mile to the S.W. of the Tombs.
TO SAIL through the WESTERN CHANNEL, after the South Brother is ap- westem
proached, steer to the westward of it at H or 2 miles' distance, and proceed to the '^'"*""^'-
northward in 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms, about mid-channel between the other Brothers
and the eastern part of False Durian, to avoid the foul ground contiguous to the Bro-
thers, and the rocky islet contiguous to the east end of False Durian.
Having cleared the Brothers by either of these channels, Passage Islands will be From the
seen to the N.W. ; there are two small islands on the east side the passage, having a ^e°noniiwai<i
flat island on the west side, called Princes Island, opposite the North Passage
Island. There is a channel to the eastward, betwixt Passage Islands and Little
Durian, which is not frequented, not being so convenient as the former; but in a case
of necessity, a ship may sail betwixt any of these islands, giving them a berth of one
mile, as their points are generally rocky and foul ground.
After leaving the Brothers, steer for Passage Islands ; in mid-channel the depths will Passage
be generally from 17 to 22 fathoms. When they are approached. Red Island will be "*'*"'*'•
discerned, which lies about 6 miles N.^ W. from the North Passage Island, and may
be known by two islets to the north-eastward of it, called the Twins. There is a safe
passage, with care, in day-light, between Middleburg Shoal and Red Island ; but as a
sunken rock lies W. by S. half a mile from the latter, and the depths being from 17 to
26 fathoms, with some overfalls, the channel to the westward is preferable. There is
a narrow passage, with 15 fathoms water, betwixt Red Island and the sunken rock just
mentioned, also a passage close on the east side of Red Island ; but as rocks lie about a
mile N.W. from the Twins, and others to the E. S. E. of Red Island about half a mile,
which bound this passage on the east side, it ought not to be attempted by a stranger.
If the passage to the eastward of the Middleburg Shoal be adopted, which is two
miles wide, the best track is about mid-way betwixt it and Red Island, in 19 to 16
fathoms, mud. There is a shoal or sunken rock detached, about half a mile from the
N.W. part of Red Island, having 19 and 20 fathoms close to it on the west side, and
15 to 19 fathoms in the narrow passage betwixt it and Red Island. The country ship
Warren Hastings passed between Red Island and this detached shoal, March .31st,
1789, at 11 A.M. : when in mid-channel between Red Island and a reef of rocks to the
westward of it, they bore respectively E. byN.^N. and W. by S. ^ S., each a little
more than a mile distant. This narrow passage ought not to be followed ; and the
other, between Middleburg Shoal and the reef to the westward of Red Island, also
requires care. ^^ hen Middleburg Shoal is conspicuous, you may borrow towards it
with a commanding breeze ; otherwise, it will be prudent to keep mid-channel between
it and Red Island. The peak of Great Durian bearing S. E. ^ S., or the northern
Passage Island in one with the west end of the peak of False Durian, will lead fair
through the channel betwixt Red Island and Middleburg Shoal. In working, do not
bring the peak of False Durian above a ship's length open to the westward of the
northernmost Passage Island, nor nearer to the reef off Red Island, than to bring that
peak nearly on with the southernmost Passage Island. Here the tides are very strong Tides.
between Middleburg Shoal and Red Island, the flood setting to the southward, and the
ebb to the northward, from 3 to 4 knots on the springs ; high water about 5 hours at
full and change of moon.
2 E 2
212 PASSAGE TO THE SOUTHWARD THROUGH DURIAN STRAIT.
From Passage The channel to the westward of MidcUehurg Shoal is preferable, being about 2^
LScIrimon. "^''*^'^ "^v'ide, with mostly regular soundings from 1(5 and 17 fathoms close to the shoal,
decreasing gradually towards the Sabon shore over a bottom of soft mud, proper for
anchorage. When clear of the North Passage Island, haul to the westward for the
Sabon shore, then steer about N. N.W. along it. in 7 fathoms, which will lead in the
fair track betwixt that shore and Middleburg Shoal. In working, do not deepen above
8^ fathoms, as there are 9 fathoms very near the western edge of the shoal : l)ut the
Sabon shore may be approached to 5^, or to 5, or even 4^ fathoms in a small ship.
After steering along the Sabon shore in about 7 fathoms until Red Island bears East
or E. by S., edge out a little, about N. by W., or North, and deepen to 10 or 12
fathoms ; continuing to keep in these depths, steer, to the northward, taking care to
give a good berth to the south end of Great Carimon, for a bank of 2|, 3, and 3^
fathoms sand and mud, projects 2^ or 3 miles out from the south point of that island.
When abreast of this point, the distance of 4 or 5 miles should be preserved from the
east side of Great Carimon, and the Little Carimon may be rounded at any convenient
distance, if bound to the northward.
Directions A SHIP being abreast of Little Carimon, with its north end bearing West from 2
from Little
Carimon to
to 2^ miles, the course is S.S. E. ,]- E. with a fair wind, which will carry her clear of
the southward, the Mud Banks fronting the low land of the Great Carimon, in soundings from 7 to 8
fathoms, until the north end of Pulo Pandan is on with the north end of Sabon, then
the strait between the Great Carimon and Sabon will be open. With a working wind,
from Little Carimon, the soundings are the best guide in standing towards the mud
banks fronting Great Carimon, which ought not to be approached under 6 fathoms,
and in this line of soundings. Little Carimon will bear N.W. | N. ; the depths in the
offing are from 14 to 16 fathoms, mud.
When the strait between Great Carimon and Sabon is open, the soundings become
irregular ; and here, caution is requisite with a working wind, as the tides set strong
through this strait to the westward at times. When the north end of Pulo Pandau is
on with the north end of Sabon, and distant from the former 3 miles, in 7 fathoms, a
course S. by E. will carry a vessel clear of the mud bank that fronts Pulo Booroo, and
mid-way between it and Middleburg Shoal, till the north end of Red Island is on with the
south end of the South Twin, and the soundings will be irregular, from 5 to 9 fathoms.
In working, a vessel may stand out to a moderate distance at discretion, but she
must not approach the shore of Pulo Booroo nearer than 1 or l^ miles in 5 to 6
fathoms. The mud bank extends southward as far as Deep Water l^oint, a projection
of Sabon Island, about 5 miles to the S. S. E. of the south end of Pulo Booroo ;
the soundings decrease regularly on the edge of the mud bank, when the south end of
Pulo Booroo bears West; there is a small isle, called Clay Island, covered with strag-
gling trees, close to this end of Booroo, and which appears to join it With this
bearing, the mud bank may be borrowed on to any depth at discretion. In standing off
towards Middleburg Shoal, do not approach Red Island nearer than to bring the
west end of North Passage Island to touch the east end of South Passage Island ;
and to avoid Middleburg Shoal, bring the north end of Red Island on with the bluff
headland to the eastward, which will lead to the northward of the shoal, or bring the
north end of Red Island on with the south end of the Twins, which will lead to the
southward of it ; the latter transit line also clears to the northward the rocky patch
lying to the westward of Red Island. A passage to the eastward of the Middleburg
Shoal may be made by keeping the east point of North Passage Island in one with the
PASSAGE TO THE SOUTHWARD THROUGH DURIAN STRAIT. 213
N.W. Peak of False Diirian, which will lead mid-way between the shoal and the
rocky patch : the water deepens towards the Middleburg Shoal, it being steep to all
round. To prevent being- horsed upon it in light winds, caution is requisite, as the
tides run here from 3 to 4 miles an hour at times, with strong ri[)plings, which are
likely to prevent a vessel from steering.
When clear of Middleburg Shoal, and of the shoal to the westward of Dolphin Directions.
Island, as the straits to the southward are free from danger, a direct course may be
steered for the eastern end of False Durian ; the Passage Islands, and also Princes
Island, a low flat island near the western shore, may be approached to any convenient
distance. The soundings throughout are very irregular, decreasing towards the western
shore, where there is good anchorage.
When distant ]^ miles from the N. Westernmost and largest of two rocky islets
which lie oft" the N.W. end of False Durian, and it being on with the peak of the
latter, there is a bank of hard sand and stones three-quarters of a mile in extent, hav-
ing 4,} fathoms the least water, and from 10 to 6 fathoms close to ; and when on it.
South Passage Island is in one with the north end of Little Durian.
In standing towards the south end of Great Durian, come no nearer the Tombs than
one mile, when South Passage Island will bear JN.W. by W . ^ W., as a small reef of
coral rocks lies half a mile from the South Tomb, near to which the soundings are from
20 to 29 fathoms. The best anchorage in this part of the straits will be found near the
eastern shore of False Durian, in 12 to 14 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile oft' shore.
With a working wind, keep near False Durian, where the tides are much stronger
than in mid-channel.
If to proceed through the western channel betwixt the Brothers and False Durian,
steer for the east end of the latter, and pass about mid-channel, between it and the North
Brother : proceeding to the southward, continue to keep in about mid-channel between
the other Brothers and the east side of False Durian; but with a working wind, either
side of the channel may be borrowed on.
To pass to the eastward of the Brothers, after rounding the Tombs, steer Fast or E.
by S., keeping 2 miles from the North Brother in passing it on the north and east
sides, where the water will shoal to 12 or 13 fathoms ; then steer about S. by E.,
attending to the set of the tide, to pass the Middle and South Brothers at the same
distance, not borrowing nearer them than 10 or 12 fathoms. With a working wind,
do not stand too far over towards the Eastern Bank, but tack immediately, if irregular
soundings are got on the overfalls near it, nor so far out, as to sink the beach of the
Middle Brother from the deck. Tiie depths in this channel will i)e mostly from
10 or 12 fathoms near the Brothers, to 16 or 18 fathoms near the overfalls on the edge
of the Eastern Bank or Shoal.
BEING abreast of the South or Great Brother, at about 3 miles' distance, steer
South or S. by W. until the Brother is brought to bear N. N.W. ; and whether vdu have
passed to the eastward or westward of the three Brothers, after having brought tlie
South Brother to bear N. N.W. or North, steer for the Calantigas aljout a South and
S. by E. coin-se, and endeavour to keej) in from 14 to 10 fathouis. With u wt)rking
wind, the best track is to stand to the eastward until in 17 fatlioms, ai)Out mid-cliantiel;
and into 12 fathoms towards the Sumatra shore ; but not under this depth, in passing
Tanjong Barroo and Tanjong Bassoo, as the siioal fronting the latter is steep to, with
8 to 14 fatlioms near its edge. After passing Tanjong Bassoo, the coast may be
approached occasionally to G or 7 fathoms ; but the best track with a fair wind, is about
214 MALACCA STRAIT.
raid-channel betwixt it and the Calantigas, or pass to the westward of these islands
about 2 or 2^ miles, at discretion.
Having- passed the Calantigas, the southernmost of these islands must be kept to the
northward of N.W. by N. until Reef Island bears East or E. ^ N., to avoid the Speke
Rock, bearing S. E. from the South Calantiga; the proper track is, to keep along the
Sumatra coast in 9 to 12 fathoms, in steering from the Calantigas to Pulo Varela,
borrowing to 6 or 7 fathoms towards the coast, with a working wind. Great care is,
however, necessary, if running here in thick weather, or in the night, on account of
strong tides setting into, or out of the rivers; lor the Princess Charlotte, at 1 a.m.
April 11th, 181.3, steering S.E. by E., shoaled suddenly from 14 to 8 and 5 fathoms,
then grounded on a bottom of sand and mud, on the great bank that fronts the coast
to the westward of Tanjong Bon and Pulo Varela, opposite the mouth of Jarabee or
Sambir River. At day-light Pulo Varela bore E. N. E., Lingin Peak N. N. E. |- E.,
Tanjong Bon S. E. by E. ^ E., the Sumatra shore distant about 2 or 2^ leagues,
observed lat. 0° 55' S. Having grounded at high water, the tide fell from 18 to 10 feet,
and with every exertion, by rafting the spars along-side, starting water, and throwing
1,332 bags of rice overboard, to lighten the ship, she could not be floated off until the
15th, four days after she grounded on the bank.
Pulo Varela bears about S. E. by E. 10 leagues from the Calantigas, and may be
passed about 2 or 3 miles' distance in 10 or 12 fathoms ; but the spit surrounding Tan-
jong Bon, on the opposite side the channel, although steep from 5 fathoms, may be
approached to 7, or even to 6 fathoms in working.
From Pulo Varela to Batacarang Point, at the entrance of Banca Strait, the course
is about S. S. E. ^ E. 22 leagues, and the whole of the bank fronting the coast is in
this space very flat, with regular soundings upon it ; the best guide, therefore, after
leaving Pulo Varela, is to keep along the coast in from 5^ to 7 fathoms, until Bataca-
rang Point is approached ; and 6^ or 7 fathoms are the proper depths to preserve, when
passing this point and entering into Banca Strait, to avoid the Frederic Hendric
Rocks, on the east side the channel : with a working wind, the point may be
approached to 5^ or 5 fathoms.
MALACCA STRAIT.
WINDS AND CURRENTS.
General A BRIEF description of the prevailing winds and currents, near Achen Head
Remarks ^^^ ^^^^ Nicobar Islands, is given in Volume First of this work, under the head of
" Outer Passage to places on either side the Bay of Bengal, &c.," and directions for
sailing to and from Achen and Malacca Strait are given in the last three chapters of
that volume. Farther directions, with a more particular account of winds and cur-
rents at the entrance of the strait, have been given in this present volume, under the
title of " West Coast of Sumatra," in Section 1st, where Achen and the adjacent
islands are described ; and it here seems necessary to give a brief summary of the
winds and currents which prevail inside the strait; with some additional instructions
for sailing between the strait and the Cororaandel coast, or Ceylon.
MALACCA STRAIT. — WINDS.
215
THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON prevails outside Achen Head from April to s.w. mo.,-
October, and seldom blows far into the strait, particularly near the Sumatra side ; for ^°°"'
the monsoon being repelled by the mountains and high land stretching from Achen
along the coast of Pedir, it is succeeded by light variable winds and calms, with occa-
sional land breezes, or sudden strong squalls from the Sumatra coast in the night,
which recjuire great caution. If Pulo Rondo is passed with a strong vS. W. monsoon,
it will be likely to fail when to the eastward of Pulo Way, having then Achen Head
in the direction of the wind.
Some navigators prefer the track from Pulo Rondo along the coast of Sumatra to
Diamond Point, and from thence to Pulo Varela and the Arroas. Sometimes, speedy
passages have been made by this route, both early and late in the season; if adopted,
it is advisable to keep near the Pedir coast, to benefit by the land and sea breezes. To enter the
which prevail only near the shore, the latter not extending farther than a few miles Pedir coas't!'
from the land. Light airs and calms also prevail in the otting, and the current gene-
rally setting strong along the coast of Pedir to the westward in the S.W. monsoon, a
ship is liable to be drifted about, or carried back towards the entrance of tiie strait,
unless she keep close to the coast, where there is anchorage in many places within
1 or 2 miles of the shore.
This track is now seldom pursued, for, exclusive of the prevailing light baffling Route along
winds and westerly currents, it is also subject to dangerous lightning, and sudden 'referawT ^"'^
severe squalls from the land in the night. The route on the other side the strait,
adjacent to the Malay coast, is therefore preferred, because there is less lightning on
this side, seldom any severe squalls, and few calms ; but generally variable w inds, or
land and sea breezes, and sometimes a favourable current, with regular tides near the
land, as a ship proceeds to the eastward. The middle of the strait should, if possible,
always be avoided, especially about Pulo Pera,* where calms predominate in the
South-west monsoon.
South-east and southerly winds prevail much throughout the strait during the
South-west monsoon, but they vary frequently in every direction, although those
between S. E. and S.W. usually predominate.
SUMATRAS, or squalls, from the south-westward, are often experienced in the sumatras.
South-west monsoon; also North-westers, or squalls from this direction, are then
more common than in the otiier season. Sumatras generally come ofl" the land during
the first part of the night, and are sometimes sudden and severe,t accompanied
with loud thunder, lightning, and rain ; they are experienced throughout the strait,
particularly in the vicinity of the Pedir Coast, and between Parcelar Hill and the
Carimons. Here, they often blow for 6 or 8 hours at a time, either in a strong or
moderate gale, the commencement being mostly sudden and severe ; for in Malacca
Road, where they generally begin between 7 and 8 p.m. and at midnight, many shpis
part tlieir cables, and some have been driven by these squalls on the mud-bank tliat
lines the shore.
NORTH-WESTERS do not prevail so much as the Sumatras, and although most North.
common in the northern part of the strait, between Achen Head antl the Arroas, they "■'=^'«''*'
* Near this island, many ships have been six or eight days delayed by calms diirinji the S.W. monsoon.
t Sliips are liable to lose their top-masts in these squalls ; one ship lost all her top-masts, the commander
havinj; been crroiiiviixli/ informed, that no squalls in Malacca Strait required precaution, e.xcepting those which
came from N. Westward.
216
STRAIT OF MALACCA. — WINDS AND CURRENTS.
Remarks on
the navigation
of the Strait.
sometimes hlow through it to the Carimons ; or even through Singapore Strait to
Pedro Branco. These winds are sometimes severe at their approach, but their strength
soon abates ; they are mostly preceded by a black cloudy arch, rising rapidly from the
horizon towards the zenith, allowing not more than sufficient time to reduce sail after
its first appearance; but at other times, the approach of these squalls is more slow.
Like Sumatras, the North-westers are sometimes accompanied by thunder, lightning,
and heavy rain. If a ship be at anchor stopping tide, during a calm, or otherwise, and
a black cloud begin to rise, indicating a North-wester, the anchor ought to be instantly
weighed, if bound to the southward, before the squall reaches her ; for as tiie first
part of these squalls usually blows strong, she may find it impossible to weigh the
anchor, and therefore be deprived of benefiting by them.
The jjassage through the strait is greatly facilitated by running in the night, for
steady breezes often prevail during the absence of the sun, when calms and faint airs
are experienced in the day.
To persons unacquainted, Malacca Strait appears an intricate navigation ; but as the
channels are mostly spacious, with good anchorage, it certainly is not dangerous, with
common |)rudence. Many ships keep under way day and night, in most parts of the
strait, and often pass through, without anchoring above once or twice. To persons a
little acquainted, or even to strangers, there is little danger by keeping under way with
clear weather during the night, in any part of the strait, except when passing the
Two-and-a-Half Fathoms Bank, between the Arroas and Parcelar Hill; passingTree
Island when coming from the northward ; from thence to St. John's, if not very clear;
and going out betwixt Pedro Branco and the reef off Point Romania. Ships which
sail well will gain ground during neap tides, with a moderate working wind in most
parts of the strait, against the tide or current, if every advantage is taken of the
favourable shifts of wind. If the wind is directly contrary, it may sometimes be found
impossible to gain ground, even against neap tides, between the Arroas and Mount
Mora, where they run with greater strength than in any other part of the strait. A
stream anchor is very convenient for stopping tide in most parts of the strait; and in
calms during the day, a kedge is sometimes sufficient for that purpose, where the tides
are not strong.
North-east
monsoon.
Current and
tides
THE NORTH-EAST MONSOON may be considered the fair season in Malacca
Strait, the weather being generally settled ; seldom are any hard squalls experienced,
and there is less thunder, lightning, and rain, than in the other season. Northerly
and N. E. winds prevail, particularly near the Malay side of the strait; the breezes
usually blow from that shore during the night. The North and N. E. winds fre-
quently blow strong betwixt Pulo Jarra and the islands at the north end of the strait;
ships, therefore, coming from the southward, and bound into the harbour of Prince of
Wales Island in this monsoon, should, after passing Dinding, keep along the edge of
the mud-bank which lines the coast, that they may not be delayed in reaching the
harbour with the strong N. E. winds and short sea, likely to prevail in the offing,
when near Prince of Wales Island.
Ships can proceed through the strait in both monsoons whether bound to the north-
ward or southward ; but those going to the northward generally make the quickest
passages, and sometimes get through, without anchoring above once or twice.
THE CURRENT, in Malacca Strait, where tides do not prevail, sets often to the
northward ; in the middle of the strait, it generally sets in that direction, from the
PASSAGE TO MALACCA STRAIT FROM MADRAS OR CEYLON.
217
Arroas to Junkseylon and Piilo Rondo, in both monsoons ; but sometimes to tlie
southward, along the Malay side, during the North-east monsoon. In the entrance of
the strait, betwixt the Pedir coast, Pulo Bouton, and Junkseylon, the general course of
the current is to the northward all the year round : but along the Malay coast, and
amongst the islands contiguous to it, regular tides mostly prevail. The current runs
along thecoastof Pedir, out of the strait to the westward during the South- west monsoon,
whilst it is setting to the northward between Pulo Rondo and Junkseylon ; but close
in Avith the Sumatra coast there are tides from Diamond Point to the south-eastward.
About the Arroas, the current sets often strong to the north-westward, with a slack,
or weak flood at times, setting to south-eastward ; from thence to the Carimons,
regular tides prevail throughout the strait from one side to the other, and the ebb
which sets to the N.W. runs longer, and is stronger than the flood. The flood sets to
the S. E. as far as the Carimons, and between the north end of Little Carimon and
Tree Island, meets with the flood running in from the China Sea through Singapore
Strait; after this junction, the flood sets to the southward, towards the Straits of
Durian.
PASSAGES TO AND FROM MALACCA STRAIT.
SHIPS from MADRAS or CEYLON, if bound to Malacca Strait, in the North- Passapefrom
east monsoon, will be liable to have a tedious passage; they ought to tack at times cJI'Jq'J,* ",^
v\'ith the favourable shifts, and, if possible, keep well to the northward, to be enabled Malacca strait
to pass betAveen the Little Andaman and Car-Nicobar Islands, or through the Som- >" "'« ^^o"''-
east monsoon.
breiro Channel, if they come from Madras. Those which come from Ceylon in this
season will probably have a long passage of 20 to 30 days, even if they sail tolerably :
they ought to keep well towards the south end of the Great Nicobar, in entering the
strait, if the wind admit ; but with caution, may enter it by tlie Surat Passage, if they
fall to leeward of Pulo Brasse, and find difiiculty in getting round the islands off
Achen.
During the strength of the North-east monsoon, in December and January, it is fre-
quently very diflicult, in an indifferently sailing ship, to get from Achen along the
coast of Pedir to Diamond Point,* where the current mostly runs to the westward,
whilst it is setting to the northward in the offing ; therefore, ships in these months
ought to stand off from the Pedir coast, and endeavour to get in with Junkseylon
Head, or near the islands on the Malay side, where favourable winds and land breezes
will be found, to carry them along that coast to the south-eastward.
SHIPS from Madras in the South-west monsoon have the choice of passing to the Passage from
southward of the Nicobars, or through any of the channels between these islands and gouth-wcsi
the Little Andaman ; the Sombreiro Channel being safe, and the most direct route, is monsoon.
preferable when observations are obtained ; a ship ought to borrow towards the south
side of the entrance in approaching it, because the currents near, and among these
islands, run mostly to the northward in the South-west monsoon. Ships w hich come
from any part of the Coromandel coast to the northward of Madras should pass
betwixt the south end of the Little Andaman and Car-Nicobar, and the same channel
may be adopted by them in the North-east monsoon, borrowing, in either case, towards
* The Surat Castle got round Achen Head in December, 1807, and was nearly six weeks from thence to
Diamond Point, and from the latter place, she got to Prince of Wales Island in two days.
VOL. II. 2 F
218 PASSAGE FROM MALACCA STRAIT TO MADRAS, ETC.
the windward shore ; when through it, a course should be steered to give a proper
berth to Junkseylon Head, and to pass Pulo Bouton at a moderate distance.
SHIPS from Ceylon, bound into Malacca Strait during the South-west monsoon,
should steer to pass nearly mid-channel between Pulo Rondo and the south end of
the Great JXicobar, keeping in about lat. (f 20' N., when passing through the channel.
If the weather be cloudy, and tlie wind strong from S.W. or S. S. VV., and if the lati-
tude is not known by observation, they should borrow towards the islands ort" Achen,
in case of a northerly current ; but when the wind prevails from westward, tlie cur-
rent sometimes sets southerly ; great caution is therefore requisite, if the latitude is not
known, when running into the entrance of the strait in the night, during dark blowing
weather.
A ship bound to Achen, in this season, ought to keep well to the southward, to fall
in with Achen Head; then, with great care, she may proceed through the Surat Pas-
sage ;* but the Bengal Passage, close round the north end of Pulo Brasse, and along
the east side of that island to the road, is preferable.
I'assage along WHETHER the Sombrciro Cliannel, or that to the southward of the Great Nico-
of Uie'st"rait'to t>ar, be chosen, in order to avoid baffling light winds adjacent to the coast, inside of
tlie Anoas. Achcn Head, a w ide berth should be given to the islands oft' it, and a course should
be steered eastward for Pulo Bouton. By keeping well out from the land of
Sumatra, and falling in with Pulo Bouton bearing about East or E. by S., some-
times brisk westerly winds will continue up to Penang, when calms and faint
breezes prevail near the coast of Pedir. This does not always occur, for ligiit airs
prevail at times, from the coast of Pedir directly across to the Malay side ; it is, how-
ever, the preferable route, for considerable advantage is generally gained by avoiding
the islands oft' Achen, and the coast of Sumatra, during the strength of the Soutli-west
monsoon. When the winds are light and baffling from southward, a ship may sometimes
be carried to the northward of Pulo Bouton in steering for it, by the northerly current
prevailing in the entrance of the strait ; but after approaching the islands on the
Malay side, she will get to the south-eastward along that coast without difficulty, and
find there N. Westerly and variable breezes. After passing to the westward of
Pulo Bouton at any convenient distance, from 2 to 7 leagues, and if not bound to
Penang, a course should be steered for the Sambilangs, keeping within a mode-
rate distance of the coast, in soundings of 35 to 20 fathoms. With a working wind,
the west side of this island may be approached to 10 or 12 fathoms, and the extensive
mud bank that stretches along the coast from thence to Pulo Dinding may be
borrowed on, to the same depths, if the lead is kept briskly going ; observing, that the
water shoals rapidly on the edge of it when under 15 fathoms. This bank is all soft
mud, and projects in some places about 3 and 4 leagues to seaward from the low coast
of Perah ; small vessels may borrow on it to 7 or 8 fathoms, but if the helm is put
down in a large ship in 9 or 10 fathoms, when standing towards the bank with a fresh
breeze, she will in some parts be in 7 or 8 fathoms before the sails are trimmed on the
other tack.
After passing betwixt the Sambilangs and Pulo Jarra, at any discretional distance
from either side, as circumstances require, with a fair wind, a S. S. £. course will be
* The Surat Passao;e is not perfectly safe for large ships working out in the S.W. monsoon, which has
been experienced by the loss of the ship Harriot, of Calcutta.
PASSAGE FROM MALACCA STRAIT TO MADRAS, ETC. 219
proper to get soundings on the western extremity of the North Sand, or to get sight of
the Arroas bearing to the S. Eastward. With a contrary wind, it is prudent to keep
near the coast, from the Sambilangs a consideral)le way to the southward, then edge
out, to round the west end of the ISorth Sand, and get a sight of the Arroas; after-
wards to work near the edge of the sand, borrowing on it occasionuUy to 10 or H
fathoms, in order to benefit by the tides, and preserve moderate depths for ancliorage.
SHIPS from MALACCA STRAIT, bound to Madras or tlie Coromandel coast, p..supefrom
during the N. E. monsoon, should keep near the Malay side and the adjacent islands, ','ardTMa('iras,
until they reach Junkseylon ; which, with the islands off' its southern extremity, may or the coro-
be rounded at any convenient distance. From Junkseylon, a course to pass betwixt |Il"t'he'^ n X'
the Car-Nicobar and the south end of Little Andaman may be adopted, if early in the monson.
season ; or the Sombreiro Channel may be chosen at discretion, if not bound to the
northward of Madras ; in December and January, care must be taken to fall in with
the coast a little to the northward of the intended port.
Ships bound to Madras in the S.W. monsoon must keep along the Sumatra side of Passage to
the strait, near the Pedir coast, to benefit by the westerly or eddy current contiguous s'w.'mo"-''"'
to it; they ought to go out by the Bengal Passage, after reaching Achen, proceeding soon.
close along the east side of Pulo Brasse, and rounding the islands at its north end.
The passage will generally be tedious in this monsoon, after clearing Achen Head,
although some shTps have reached Madras in 14 or 15 days from that place, during the
strength of the monsoon, by taking advantage of every fovourable change of wind to
obtain westing, and tacking with those changes as most expedient.
SHIPS bound to Ceylon in this season, after clearing Achen Head, must endeavour Passage to
to get to the southward of the equator, giving the islands oft' the west coast of Sumatra ,^,7s'.\v'!"m<m-
a w ide berth if possible. Having got into S. Easterly winds, a westerly course should soon.
be pursued until on the meridian of the intended port ; then a north course for it may
be followed, observing to fall in with the land on the west side of Point de Galle, if
bound there ; or with the south-east part of the island, if bound to Baticolo or Trin-
comalee ; for strong westerly winds, and easterly currents, prevail along the south
coast of Ceylon during the S.W. monsoon. Ships seldom sail from Malacca Strait to
Madras or Ceylon in this season, and it may sometimes be found impracticable to ac-
complish the passage in those which sail indiflerently by the wind.
Ships bound to Ceylon during the N. E. monsoon usually experience favourable Passage w^^
weather and a fair wind. In proceeding out of the strait, they may pass on either KE°ni'"n. ^
side of Pulo Pera at discretion, and borrow towards Pulo Rondo, or towards the south suon.
end of Great JN'icobar, as seems expedient ; if they fall accidentally to leeward of Pulo
Rondo, they may pass safely through the channel formed betw ixt the ledge of rocks
lying about 2 miles to the southward of it, and Pulo Way. After taking a departure
from Pulo Rondo, or the south end of Great INicobar, a direct course should be steered
to fall in with Ceylon to the northward of Trincomalee, if bound to that port. If
bound to Point de Galle, Colombo, or the Malabar coast, the land should be made to
the northward of the Little Basses, particularly in the night ; for there, the lead, if
kept going, will give sufficient warning before the land is approached too closely. In
day-light, a course may be steered direct for the Great Basses, if the wind blow steadily
at N. Eastward, allowing for a probable southerly current running along the coast;
and as this current generally prevails in the strength of the IN. E. monsoon along the
east side of Ceylon, it is prudent, even in day-light, to fall in with the coast a little to
2 F 2
220
MALACCA STRAIT. — I'EDIR COAST, SUMATRA.
the northward of the Great Basses ; or to the northward of the Little Basses, when
the wind hangs northerly, or when it inclines to be light and variable. After rounding
the Basses, ships bound to the Malabar coast ought to keep close to Ceylon, as if they
were bound to Point de Galle, or Colombo ; and they ought to coast along nearly to
the latter place, before they stretch oft' for Cape Coinorin.
Coast of
Pedir.
Tanjong
Batoo, and
adjacent coast.
COAST OF PEDIR FROM TANJONG BATOO TO DIAMOND POINT.
THE NORTH PART of SUiMATRA, called the Coast of Pedir, extends from
Point Pedro, the northernmost point of the island, nearly E. | S., about 44 leagues
to Diamond Point, its eastern boundary. This coast is low in several places close
to the sea, but the country a little inland is all very high, with some remarkable
mountains.
TANJONG BATOO, generally called Point Pedro, situated about 4 or 5 leagues
E. N. E. from Achen Road, terminates in a gentle slope, and is covered with large
trees ; the coast between it and Achen may in some parts be approached to 10 fathoms,
but the proximity of the point must be avoided, as breakers and foul ground project
around it to a considerable distance ; yet in passing it during the night, it is proper
not to go outside of 16 or 17 fathoms, keeping the lead going, that Pulo Malora may
have a proper berth to the northward ; for tiiis small island lies to the N. Eastward of
Achen Road, and rather nearer to Tanjong Batoo than to Pulo Way. Tanjong Batoo
Pootie is known by a large wiiite rock off" it, and bears E. 5^ S. from Tanjong Batoo,
distant about 4 leagues. Between these points lies Deep Bay, or Back Bay, having
soundings of 20 fathoms in it, about 1 or 1^ miles off" shore ; but there is no ground,
"when the distance from it exceeds 4 or 5 miles, more particularly about Tanjong
Batoo Pootie, where the coast is nearly steep to.
Pedir Point. PEDIR POINT, in about lat. 5°29'N., Ion. 96° 10' E., bearing from Tanjong
Batoo Pootie E.S.E., distant 5 or 6 leagues, may be known by some bushy trees on its
extremity, by the Golden Mountain, which bears from it W. by S. ^ S. nearly, and by
the land trending from it to the S. S. Eastward. In sailing from Achen along this part
of the coast, a ship should keep near it, as in most parts anchorage may be found if
necessary, for there is seldom any hidden danger above half a mile from the shore ;
and as the bank is steep to, with westerly and variable currents outside, calms are
more prevalent than in soundings, and much ground may be lost by getting out of
anchorage.
The Road. Pedir Point may be approached to 10 flithoms, within half a mile ; the course is then
S.S.E. and S.E. by S. to the road of Pedir, where the anchorage is in 10 fathoms, with
the point bearing N.W., Golden Mount W. i N., and the entrance of the river, which
is not conspicuous, S. ^ W. to S.S.W., distant IJ or 2 miles : small ships may anchor
in 7 fathoms about a mile off" shore. Boats can enter the river at low water neap tides,
but not until a quarter flood on the springs, a considerable surf being then on the bar.
Pedir exports great quantities of beetle-nut cultivated here, and pepper brought from
places of less consequence, which makes the trade of the whole coast take its name
Pedir Village, after this port. Pedir village is in lat. 5° 22' N., and 26 miles East of the Golden
Mountain, or in Ion. 96° 15' E.
Rajai. Point. RAJAH POINT bears from Pedir Point E. by S. |S., distant about 12 leagues,
MALACCA STRAIT. — PEDIR COAST, SUMATRA. 221
and in working between them you may stand in 12 or 14 fathoms, although, in some
places, these depths are not above half a mile from the shore ; when near Rajah Point,
do not go under 20 fathoms, for contiguous to it there is said to be foul ground. There
are several villages along this part of the coast; Burrung has now become the ciiief Coast and vii-
place on the coast for trade, and is much frequented by Chulia vessels from the Coro- ^^^^ «(ijacent.
raandel coast; it is in lat. 5°20'N., about 5 or (j miles E. S. Eastward from Pedir,
near the entrance of a river, from whence the bushy tree on Pedir Point is just visible
from the deck. Burrong is also called Gingham, but Gingham River stretches west-
erly from it towards Pedir. Ayerlaboo is an inconsiderable place, 3 miles eastward
from Burrong; and Sawang, 4 or 5 miles farther, may be known by a grove of trees,
which are very conspicuous. Merdoo, about 4 leagues eastward of Sawang, may be
known by some huts and straggling trees, and by a large tree on the point of the river,
the entrance of which is not conspicuous ; but a run of water resembling, when at a
distance, a path in the valley, appears very plain in the rainy season. Sambelangan,
about 2 leagues to the eastward of Merdoo, has a small fort on each side the river,
and lies in a bight betwixt Merdoo Point and Rajah Point; ships may anchor at any
of these places, the coast being bold and safe to approach ; but, excepting Burrong and
Sambelangan, these villages produce very few articles of trade. The anchorage at
Sambelangan is in 12 to 15 fathoms, with Merdoo Point bearing W. by N., Rajah
Point E. by N., distant offshore 1 or 1^ miles.
PASSANGAN POINT, bearing from Rajah Point E. by N. i N., distant 6 leagues, Passangan
is bluff, and may be known by a grove of coco-nut trees on its extremity, which is di- ^'""*-
vided by the mouth of a river ; the coast between these places is much indented, sound-
ings do not extend off above 2 miles, and 8 or 9 miles eastward from Rajah Point, are
very irregular; then a bank about 1 or 2 miles from the shore, with 10 fathoms on its
edge, extends to Passangan. This bank shoals gradually to the shore, but half a mile
beyond its verge there is no bottom at 50 or (JO fathoms. The point may be rounded
within the distance of a mile with the land wind, for although the sea generally breaks
upon the point, there is no ground at 30 fathoms about 2 cables' lengths outside the
breakers.
Passangan River falls into the bay to the eastward of the point, off which there is
anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms about half a mile from the shore, with the point bearing
W. by N.
Elephant Mountain, in Ion. 90° 50' E., called also Friar's Hood, bearing S. AV. |^S. Elephant
when in one witii Passangan Point, lies several leagues inland, and may easily be ^'""n"""
known by its abrupt and singular aspect ; it will point out the approach to Passangan
Point.
ROCKY POINT, or GUM GUMA, may be known by a clump of trees at its ex- R„cky Poin..
tremity, somewhat higher than the rest, bears E. 4 N. from Passangan River, distant aii^contigu.iiis
about 3^ or 4 leagues, and the soundings between tliem do not extend far out : in
working' here, stand in to 20 fathoms, but not under this depth off Rocky Point, as a
reef projects from it.
TOOLOO-SAMWOI POINT, in lat. 5° 13' N., about Ion. 97° 14' E., is 2 or TooIoo-
3 leagues E. S. J-:astward of Rocky Point ; tiie coast between them is very steep, having *'""'*°' ^'"""•
25 fatlioms about half a mile off, from which depth the water shoals ([uickly towards
222
MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST.
the shore. On the extremity of the former point there is a square clump of trees, which
makes it resemble an island when first seen.
Toiiloo-
Sainwoi.
CHiitioii.
Shoal
TOOLOO-SAMWOl, in lat.5° 10' N., at the bottom of the bay to the S. Eastward
of the point, is a place of some trade, and there is a fort and village near the mouth of
the river. Ships which stop iiere to trade, or to procure water and refreshments, must
be constantly guarded against the perHdy of the natives, and those of the other towns
along this coast, who have been too successful, at various times, in surprising vessels
and massacring their crews.
If bound into the road from the westward, round the point at any convenient dis-
tance, keeping the western side of the bay close aboard, if the wind be westerly ; and
anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms with the point N. by W. ^ W., Passier Grove E. by S.
^ S., and the High Table Mountain to the S.W. of Diamond Point S. E. by S., about
half a mile from tlie western shore.
Betwixt Tooloo-Sarawoi and Diamond Point, lies the river and village of Courtay,
or Curtoy, and the whole of this part of the coast is clear of danger, except when
Diamond Point is approached ; a shoal, with 1^ and 2 fixthoms on it, bears about
W. ^ S. from the point, and North from the village Courtay, distant 2 or 3 miles from
the shore. Close to this shoal on the outside there are 1 1 fathoms, and between it and
the shore, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms.
Sumatra coast,
from Diamond
Point to the
Arroas.
Tides.
Passage along
the coast.
THE SUMATRA COAST, from Diamond Point to the Arroa Island, is low and
woody, fronting the sea, having along it several rivers, towns, and villages, which are
only frequented by coasting proas or other small vessels.
The flood sets along this coast to the S. E., and the ebb to the N. W., varying a
point or two, according to the direction of the coast : the ebb is generally stronger and
of longer duration than the flood, but seldom runs above 1|^ miles per hour, when the
distance from the shore is considerable. The soundings along the coast are somewhat
irregular, with foul ground in many places under 30 fathoms ; but outside tliis depth
the bottom consists of mud, or mud and sand, and it is of the same quality in the middle
of the strait.
Although the Malay side of the strait is preferable to the other, yet if a ship happen
to be off Diamond Point with a steady N. W. gale, she may steer along the Sumatra coast
at a moderate distance, towards Pulo Varela and the Arroas. This route is shorter
than the common one along the Malay side ; and the best depths to preserve, after
passing Diamond Point, are from 30 to 36 fathoms, not borrowing under 20 or
25 fathoms towards the Sumatra shore, in working ; but she may stand out into
the middle of the strait to any distance required ; and the coast may be approached
occasionally, in some places, to 12 or 14 fathoms, if she intend to anchor off any of
the rivers.
Diamond
Point.
NORTH-EAST COAST OF SUMATRA, FROM DIAMOND POINT TO BREWERS STRAIT
AND SIAK RIVER.*
DIAMOND POINT, called also JAMBIE AYER, or TANJONG GOERE, in
* Chiefly from the survey, by Lieutenants Rose and Moresby, of the Indian Navy, in the Company's cruizer
Nautilus, in 1822.
MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. 223
lat. 5° 17' N., Ion. 97° 33' E.,* forming the eastern extremity of the coast of Pedir, is
low and woody, but the trees on it being of unequal height, and higher than those of
the contiguous land, make the point appear like a low sloping island, when viewed at
a considerable distance, although the ground is very little elevated above the sea at
high water spring tides. A reef extends from the point about a mile in a northerly
direction, having 3 fathoms sand on its outer edge, and shoaling gradually to the point ;
a shi|) siiould come no nearer the latter than 2 miles, nor under 12 fathoms in passing
it and the shoal to the westward ; for the water shoals quickly under this depth to the
westward of the point. This place is frequented in the fair season by fishermen from
the coast of Pedir. Inland, to the S. S. Westward, there is a high Table Mountain,
visible from the offing in clear weather.
Altiiough the tides along the Pedir coast are weak, and only perceptible near the Tides.
shore, there being a current usually setting to the westward in the offing during the
South-west monsoon, yet they begin to run strong at Diamond Point; the ilood here
sets to the south-eastward, and the ebb to the north-westward, about 2 miles per hour,
with a rise and fall of 9 or 10 feet on the springs. At the western part of the coast
of Pedir, it is high water about 10^ hours, on full and cliange of moon; and at 12
hours oti' Diamond Point. I'he soundings are not very regular in the offing, the depths Soundings,
being from 20 to 35 or 40 fathoms, about 3 miles, to 5 or (> leagues from the point ; and
soundings extend from hence across to Pulo Pera, and from the latter to the Ladda
Islands, and to Penang. A little outside of Pulo Pera there are no soundings.
PRAUHILAH POINT, in lat. 4° 53' N., Ion. 97° 55' E., by chronometer, bearing Prauhiiah
from Diamond Point nearly S. E. about 10 or 11 leagues, has a reef projecting North ^'"'"'
and N. N.W., from it about 3 miles, near which the soundings are very irregular,
altiiough between it and Diamond Point they are regular at a small distance from the
shore : there are 4^ fathoms, mud, about 3^ miles from Prauhiiah Point. On the north
side of the point is the entrance into the river, which is almost dry at low water; but
inside of it there are 2 fiithonis for several miles up, with a small tishing village at a
considerable distance from the entrance.
LANKSA BAY, about 7 leagues S. E. by S. from Prauhiiah Point, formed by i.anksa Bay.
Oojong Byan to the N.W. and Oojong Quala Lanksa to the S. E., is about 4 miles
wide, containing numerous shoals, with narrow channels leading into the different
rivers which fall into this bay. Near Oojong Quala Lanksa lies PuloTelaggy Tujou,
a small island about a mile in extent, iiaving a channel about 300 yards wide, w ith (i
and 7 fathoms water, between it and Oojong Quala Lanksa : this island cannot be dis-
tinguished from tlie main land, in coming from the nortiiward. The entrance into
Lanksa River bears from it about South, and there is a safe but narrow channel on
either side the island ; the best channel, however, is from the N. E. between the island
and Oojong Quala Lanksa, having 2^ fathoms the least water. In the entrance of the
river there are two small islands, and the town is said to be at a considerable distance
inside, containing a number of inhabitants, who cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans.
There are only 3 fathoms mud, about (J miles distant from the bottom of the bay, and
the reefs extend 3jL or 4 miles from the nearest laud.
I About 5 leagues" S. E. of Lanksa Bay is Oojong Tannang, or Tamiang, with Pulo
I
I * It has been ],laced by some navigators 12 or 14 miles more to the eastward; but the survey of this part of
I the coast of Sumatra, by Lieutenants Itose and Moresby, places it in the longitude given above.
224
MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST.
Roquit mid-way between them ; the coast in this interval is safe to approach, having
from 15 to 20 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, excepting at Pulo llo((uit, and at
Oojong Tannang, where there are reefs of breakers, which project out about a mile.
QuAia Bubon. QUALA* BIJBON, in lat. 4° 1' N., Ion. 98° 29' E., lies at the S. E. extremity of
a deep bay, formed between it and Oojong Tannang ; the bay is not easily perceived
from the offing, as Pulo Tampelee and Pulo Lampatuah, two large islands fronting
the bay, appear, unless close in shore, as part of the main land. Between these islands,
there is said to be a safe channel for small vessels, that leads to Kaya-la-pun River. Fiom
the mouth of Quala Bubon a bank extends about 4 miles to the northward and north-
eastward, having dry patches on it, with breakers in some places. About 4^ miles off
Tides. the entrance of the river, the depth is 3 fathoms, mud, and the tide rises and falls about
9 feet on the springs, high water at 3 hours on full and change of moon.
About 4 leagues S. Eastward of Quala Bubon there is an island, close to Oojong
Lankat-tuah, which is safe to approach, and which forms the northern extreme of the
concavity of the land, where Delhi River is situated.
Delhi Rirer.
liulu China
River.
Tides.
Tanjoiig
Mattie.
DELHI RIVER, in lat. 3° 46' N., Ion. 98° 42' E., is fronted by an extensive mud
flat to the distance of 5 miles in some places, upon which the depths decrease regu-
larly. The mouth of the river is about a quarter of a mile wide, having only 4 feet at
high water on some parts, but inside it deepens to 2 fathoms ; about 3 miles from the
entrance, the river has a sharp turn to the S. E. and becomes narrow, and after form-
ing three very short turnings, having only 3 or 4 feet water in some of them, reaches the
town of Delhi, where it is only 40 yards wide, and a fresh stream descending always at
this place. The town consists of scattered huts, and contains about 500 inhabitants,
who cultivate some rice and pepper.
Bulu China River entrance is about a quarter of a mile to the northward of Delhi
River, and between them a sand-bank, dry at low water, projects about a mile from
the shore, having close to it 1^, 2, and 3 fathoms. The entrance of Bulu China River
is about 300 yards wide, and much deeper than Delhi River, having one fathom on the
bar at low water, with 3^ and 4 fathoms inside ; about 3^ miles up, this river branches
off to the westward, and it has a communication with Delhi by a channel to the south-
eastward, in ^vhich there are 1^ and 2 fathoms water. Here, the rise and fall of tide
is from 8 to 9 feet, high water at 4 hours on full and change of moon.
From Delhi toTanjong Mattie, which forms the northern part of Battoo BarraBay,
the coast extends about S. E. by E., having regular soundings to 4| fathoms, within
1^ miles of the low sandy beach that lines this part of the coast. Off Tanjong Mattie
to the northward, the depth increases to 12 and 14 fathoms, and shoals suddenly to
5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit which projects about a mile from that point ; and
about 5 miles to the eastward of it, and the same distance to the northward of Battoo
Barra, there is an extensive and dangerous sand-bank, having only 1 and 1^ fathoms,
M'ith a safe channel betwixt it and the main land.
Battoo Barra, BATTOO BARRA RIVER, in lat. 3° 13' N., Ion. 99° 37' E., and the coast for
some miles eastward, is fronted by an extensive mud flat, having regular soundings, and
projecting out to within 3 miles of the South Brother. The river is about 300 yards
wide, with regular soundings to the dry banks at its mouth, where a little way inside it
Quala signifies River.
MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA COAST. 225
divides into two branches, one to the eastward and the other to the westward. About
a mile up the western branch, is the town, where the chief rajah resides; it is appa-
rently well inhabited. On the banks of the eastern branch stands another town, with
a number of inhabitants; and there are said to be other towns forther up the river, all
subject to the Rajah of Battoo Barra, who i.s tributary to the Rajah of Siak. The
people cultivate rice and rattans, and manufacture raw silk from China, small quanti-
ties of a kind of tartan, which is much esteemed by the neighbouring Malays. Opium,
fire-arms, and gunpowder, appear to be in great request. Elephants abound inland, but
the natives are ignorant of the method of catching them : horses are also plentiful, but
are neglected on account of the heavy duty charged by tiie rajahs. European vessels
have discontinued visiting this place for many years, owing to the perfidious conduct
of tiie Malays, who fonnerhj cut oft' several vessels that touched here to trade. Ne-
vertheless, the people of Battoo Baira appeal' more industrious, and better inclined to Trade and
trade, than is usual with the other inhabitants of this coast ; and they carry in their own *"pp''^^-
proas, to Penang and Malacca, the rattans, pepper, or other articles produced here.
Goats and poultry are plentiful, at reasonable prices.
ASSARHAN RIVER, in lat. 3° 2' N., Ion. 99° 52' E., has a mud flat, extending Assarhan
from its entrance about 7 miles to N. Eastward, upon which the soundings regularly ^''''"'
decrease. From hence to Reccan River, care is required not to approach too near the
coast, as several mud flats extend to a considerable distance, upon the verge of which
the water shoals suddenly : particularly about 5 or 6 leagues to the S. E. of Assarhan
River, fronting the Bay of Lidang and its contiguous rivers, where the flat extends
3 and 4 leagues from the shore at the bottom of that bay.
RECCAN, or RAKAN RIVER, has at the entrance two islands, Pulo Lalang Reccan River.
Besar, in lat. 2° 10' N., Ion. 100° 37' E., and Pulo Lalang Kecheel ; the former is the
largest, from wiiich the other bears S. by E. \ E. about 2| miles, and there is a shoal
channel between them, leading into the river: they are low and woody, and not dis-
cernible ai)ove 10 miles. Having passed between tiiese islands, and being a little to
the eastward of them, the entrance into the river bears S. E. f S., and extends in this
direction about .30 miles; then a small and shoal bank projects to the westward, called
Banka : but the main branch takes a S. E. direction, and is called Tanah Putie River,
having a town of the same name at the mouth of this branch, which is here al)Out
1^ miles wide, and is said to take its rise from the mountains. It is shoal and dan-
gerous, from the rapidity of the tides ; but several large and populous villages are
said to stand on its banks, subject to the Rajah of Siak.
The greatest breadth of the mouth of Reccan River is about 15 miles, decreasing
about 8 or 9 miles up to 4 miles, afterwards to 2 miles, and then continuing this
breadth till it forms the two branches mentioned above. It is almost dry at low
■water spring tides, and is rendered exceedingly dangerous by their excessive rapidity Tide and bore.
of 7 miles per hour, producing a bore on tlie springs, and having a rise and fall of
30 feet.*
At the mouth of the river it is high water at iiours on full and change of moon,
the rise and fall of tide about 20 feet, and here the velocity of the stream is about
5^ miles per hour, but it becomes much greater a few miles up.
• The Nautilus anchored about 17 miles up the river in 6^ fathoms, and while the ebb tide was running about
2 miles per hour, the bore was seen approaching in three large waves, and the instant it touched the vessel,
then lying aground in 4 feet water, it was passed in less than a minute, and increased the depth to "2^ fathoms.
VOL. II. 2 G
226 MALACCA STRAIT. — BREWERS STRAIT.
On the bank of the river, the Nautilus found a straggling village, from whence the
inhabitants came off in great numbers, and entreated to be admitted on board, under
pretence of friendship, which was refused, excepting to a few of them: they afterwards,
without the least provocation, endeavoured to cut off one of the boats, which had got
adrift by the excessive rapidity of the tide.
From Reccan River the land of the eastern bank projects to the N.W., forming the
Oojong Perba. headland called Oojong Perbabean, in hit. 2° 15' N., from which a mud flat extends
I'ent coifsr'^'*' to N.W. and N. N. W. about 1 1 and ]-2 miles, and upon this flat the soundings decrease
regularly. When clear to the eastward of this bank, and having Oojong Perbabean
bearing S.W. and Parcelar Hill N. E., you enter upon the most dangerous part of this
coast, its various sand-banks extending from it over to the south sands, with gaps and
narrow channels of mud soundings between them.
As the soundings afford no guide in approaching these banks, the depth decreasing
suddenly upon them, it is necessary for a vessel intending to pass between them to have
a boat a-head sounding, and a good look-out kept from the fore-yard, for the shoal
banks are plainly seen when the sky is clear in the daytime.
puio Houpat. PULO ROUPAT (north point, called Oojong Bantan, in lat. 2° & N., Ion,
101° 42' E.), is bold to approach, having 30 fathoms within \h miles of the shore. The
eastern side of this island is bold until the entrance of Brewers Strait is approached,
where a mud bank extends out from the shore of Pulo Roupat about 5 miles. Between
the north point of Pulo Roupat and Oojong Perbabean, the coast forms a deep bight,
which is fronted by an extensive sand-bank ; this bank, together with those in the offing,
mentioned above, render this part of the Sumatra side of the strait very intricate and
dangerous.
Brewers BREWERS STRAIT, or SALAT PANJANG, the north entrance, is formed
Strait. between the main land of Sumatra and Pulo Bucalisse, Tanjong Jattee, the north end
of the latter, being in lat. 1° 30' N., Ion. 102° 0' E. The northern part of this strait is
about 5 miles wide, with soundings of 8 to 15 and 20 fathoms, mud ; and about 8 miles
from the entrance, on the western shore, is the town of Bookit Battoo, upon the banks
of a very narrow river of the same name; the town is not easily perceived, the houses
being scattered among, and hid by the trees ; but it may be known by a tree, formed like
an umbrella, near the entrance of the river.*
At Oojong Ballai, a point of Sumatra about 3 leagues to the S. E. of Bookit Battoo
River, the strait becomes contracted to 3 or 4 miles in breadth ; and opposite to the
point is the entrance to the narrow strait called Salat Padang, affording a safe passage
for boats ; it is formed between Pulo Bucalisse and Pulo Padang. From Oojong
Ballai, Brewers Strait turns from a S. E. to a South direction, till opposite the mouth
of the Siak River.
From the entrance of Siak River, Brewers Strait extends S. S. E. to the western end
of Pulo Rantow, where it contracts to one mile in breadth, with regular mud sound-
ings from 8 to 10 fathoms. Between Pulo Rantow and Pulo Padang is formed a
channel, leading to the sea, called Salat Ringit by the natives, and said to be used
only by boats. From the western end of Pulo Rantow the strait takes an easterly
* Captain M. Quin, of H. M. S. Raleigh, who visited Bookit Battoo in 1837, describes it as being built on
piles, and as the principal station for the war proas of the Rajah of Siak ; seventeen of these vessels were an-
chored in the river ready for sea, at the time of Captain Quin's visit. The Raleigh anchored abreast of the river
in 12;^ fathoms, Bookit Battoo bearing W.S.W. and Tanjong Jattee N. by W. ^ W.
MALACCA STRAIT.— SIAK KIVER. — ISLANDS AND BANKS. 227
direction about 20 miles, with depths from 10 to j5 fathoms, till a small island in
mid-straits is approached, on each side of which the passage is jjracticable, taking
care to avoid the stream of the island, as a mud flat extends from it to the westward
about 2^ miles in the middle of the strait. From hence, the direction to the strait is
to the S. Eastward, and after passing three small islands on the left hand, the southern
entrance opens, off which there are a great number of islands.
The safest channel out appears to be between Pantow Point and Pulo Senappoo,
having regular but shoal soundings of only one fathom at low water in some parts.
SIAK RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 1° 13' N., Ion. 102° 10' E., on the western siak River.
side of Brewers Strait, is about three-quarters of a mile wide, having a sandy spit,
nearly dry at low water, extending almost across, but leaving a safe, although very
narrow channel, close to Oojong Liang, the eastern entrance point ; the river becomes
narrow with deep soundings inside, and is said to have its source in the mountains.
The town of Siak stands at a considerable distance from the mouth of the river; the
Rajah of Siak is very powerful, his authority extending to Lankat, a town situated
on the banks of Bubon River. The Nautilus anchored in 6 fathoms, mud, within a
quarter of a mile of the mouth of Siak River, and found the time of high water at full
and change of moon to be 9 hours, rise and fall of tide about 12 feet, and the velocity Tides.
2^ miles per hour.
CAMPOU RIVER, in lat. 0° 35' N., Ion. 103° 8' E., is fronted by an extensive campouR.ver.
mud flat, almost dry at low water; and it is little frequented, on account of the
rapidity of the tides, occasioning a bore at times, similar to that of Reccan River,
which it resembles in several respects. In approaching the southern entrance of
Brewers Strait, the tides are greatly influenced by this river, producing a strong eddy Tides.
round some of the islands, so that while the tide is running to the southward on one
side of an island, it may often be found running to the northward on the other side.
The rise and fall of tide near the southern entrance of Brewers Strait is about 15 feet
in some parts, with a velocity of about 3^ miles per hour, but much greater when near
the entrance of Campou River.
The three islands, Pulo Bucalisse, Pulo Padang, and Pulo Rantow, which form islands form-
Brewers Strait, and also Pulo Panjore, ought not to be approached, but with great strak.Tn.r*
caution, at tiieir eastern sides, as they are fronted by an extensive mud flat, with dan- shoaisoff
gerous sand-banks, in some places, having only H fathoms water on them. These '"^'""
form what is usually called the Sumatra Bank, or Third Bank in Malacca Strait, to
the N. Westward of the Carimons.
ISLANDS AND BANKS.
PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 47' N., Ion. 99° 33' E., bearing from Diamond Point Puio varei..
S. 49° E., distant 140 miles, and about 6 leagues from the Sumatra shore, is high, and
'maybe seen at 8 leagues' distance: ofl" the N. W. i)oint lies an islet or rock, and
another oft' the soutii end. At its south end, in a little cove, water may be procured
from a small run, but not always in suflicient quantity ; and there is anchorage at the
S. E. part of the island in 12 to 18 fathoms, about a mile oft". Plenty of firewood may
be procured, and good pine spars may be cut here. Boats landing here ought to be
guarded against the perfidy of the Battoo-barra people, from the adjacent coast, who
frequently lurk about it with a few proas, in search of plunder, or to dry their nets ;
2g 2
228 MALACCA STRAIT. — ISLANDS AND BANKS.
and they liave more than ouce massacred, or carried into captivity, the crews of boats,
which had handed here to procure wood and water.*
Tiie depths of water near the iskmd on the inside are 18 to 24 fathoms, decreasing
towards the Sumatra coast, but not always regularly, as several banks are known to
exist here; of which the one next described is dangerous.
vareia Reef. VARELA REEF, bearing W. | S. from the island, distant ii or 5| leagues, has
sometimes breakers on its southern part, from whence a long spit, or bank of sand,
extends to N. N. Westward. The American ship William, Captain Bodin, Sep-
tember 2nd, 1811, shoaled to 7 fathoms, hard sand, on this bank, and shortly after saw
breakers bearing S. E. by E., which were brought to bear E. f N., distant about
2 miles, when in one with Pulo Vareia, the latter just visible from the deck, then in
12 fathoms water. Anchored afterwards in 7 fathoms on the bank, with the breakers
bearing S. E. ^ E., and Pulo Vareia E. by S. ; after weighing, steered E. by S. 3
miles, then shoaled suddenly to .3| fathoms, steered W. N. VV. and anchored in
6 fatiioms, with Pulo Vareia E. i N., a high grove of trees on Sumatra, thought to
be at the mouth of Delhi River, VV.S. W. ^S., and the breakers S. S. E. After
weighing a second time, steered E. by S. about 2 miles, and shoaling again to 3
fathoms, wore to the W.N.W. and N. W., deepening very slowly till Pulo Vareia
bore East, then had 7 fathoms, and steered N. E., increasing the depth to 9, 10, 12,
and 13 fathoms in a few casts of the lead.'l"
Kanks thought There is a bank about 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Vareia, on which the Arae-
not dangerous. j.j(,^jj gjjjp WiUiam had 9 fathouis ; and 10 miles to the W. S. Westward of the island,
and 4 or 5 miles in a S. E. direction from Vareia Reef, she had 9 fathoms on another
bank : on a third bank, about 4 or 4^ leagues S. by W. from the same island, she had
9 and 8 fathoms, with soundings from 18 to 26 fothoms between tiiem.
Another bank, bearing about N.W. by N. 3 leagues from Pulo Vareia, is said to
have only 2 fathoms on it, but 7 or 8 fathoms appear to be the least water that has
been found in the position assigned to it. About 4 leagues to the N. Eastward of
Pulo Vareia, the depths are from 32 to 35 fathoms.
Two Brothers. THE TWO BROTHERS, bearing nearly N. N. E. and S. S. W. 4 or 5 miles
from each other, are covered w ith wood, and much lower than Pulo Vareia ; the
northernmost, called Pulo Pandan, is in lat. 3° 24' N., about Ion. 99" 49' E., bearing
from Pulo Vareia S. S. E. f E., distant 8^ or 9 leagues. The southernmost, called
Salanama, is the larger; the soundings about 4 or 5 miles to the northward of Pulo
Pandan are 26 and 27 fathoms ; but to the N. W. and westward of it, at the distance
of 4 to 8 or 9 miles, the American ship William had from 7 fathoms the least water,
to 9 or 10 fathoms, sometimes sandy bottom, at other times soft mud.
Sailing Direc From Diamond Point, having proceeded along the Sumatra side of the strait, you
may pass on either side Pulo Vareia, giving a berth to the reef, if you pass inside, then
steer towards the Brothers, and pass to the northward of them, as the channel betwixt
* In 1788, the boat belonging to the ship Dadaloy, Captain Ricliardson, was cut off at this island, where
she was sent to procure water.— Captain M. Quin, R.N ,ot'H.M S. Raleigh, who visited Vareia in 1837, states,
that the people from Battoo-barra, who, with their families, resort to this island, " remain some three months
in each year to catch turtle and preserve their eggs," and that " they also prepare dry fish-roes and fish for the
markets of Penang, Malacca, and Singapore." (Naitf. Mag. /or 1838, p. 794.)
f Thecourses steered by the William, and the bearings of the land which are given, are irreconcilable. — Ed.
tions
MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. 229
the Soutli Brother and Battoo Barra Flat is not frequented, being only .3 or 4 miles
wide; besides the passage outside is more direct towards the channel formed between
the Arroas and North Sand. Long Arroa bears about S. E. by E. ^ E., 19 leagues
from the northernmost Brother, and after passing the latter, steer more easterly, to
make the Arroas, bearing well to the southward, to get soundings on the western end
of the iXorth Sands ; then proceed through the channel between the Korth and South
Sands, towards Parcelar Hill.
From Diamond Point to Siak River, the coast of Sumatra has been particularly Sumatra coast
described; it is mostly all low land, covered with trees, and intersected by several
rivers ; shoal banks stretch out a great way from tiie siiore in some places. The
channel along this coast, to the southward of the Arroas and South Sands, has been
found, by the late examination of the Nautilus, to be intricate and unsafe : the land
being low and level, destitute of proper marks, no ship ought to adopt tiiis channel;
and a boat must be kept sounding a-head, if a ship be obliged to push through it in a
case of emergency.
The East and West Channel, formed between the North and South Sands, from the
Arroas to Parcelar Hill, and then betwixt the Malay coast and South Sands, is fre-
quented by ships of every description ; and it is far preferable to the passage along the
Sumatra side of the strait. It has been said, that 7 leagues W. by N. from the Long
Arroa there is a bank even with the water's edge, but most probably no such bank
exists.
MALAY COAST, FROM JUNKSEYLON TO P E N A N G.
THE MALAY COAST, between Junkseylon and Penang, nuw occupied by the Malay coast
Siamese, is fronted by many islands; and inside most of the groups, and between them, '""''*'""'*•
there are passages for small vessels, but large ships generally sail outside.
A small vessel proceeding from Junkseylon during the N. E. monsoon may pass on
either side the outer groups to the S. E. of Pulo Panjang, as most convenient : the first
of these, called the Vogels, is a group of small islands about leagues from Panjang,
with 14 and 16 fathoms water inside, and 2.5 to 30 fathoms outside of them.
The Pilgrims is the next group, 4 or -5 leagues farther to the S. Eastward, composed
of very small islands, and bearing nearly East, about 9 leagues from the Brotliers off
Junkseylon. Some persons call the largest island of this group Slipper IsUuui, but
Sapata, or Slipper Island, seems to belong to a group of two or three islands, 4 or 5
leagues farther to the S. Eastward. Tiie latter group is called Pulo Allang by the
Malays, but navigators give to the largest the various names of Pulo MuJjea, Tupia, or
Slipper Island. Betwixt these islan(ls and many others whicii lie contiguous to the
coast, tlie depths are from 20 to 12 fathoms, and there is good anchorage amongst
them : some articles of refreshment may be got at PuioTelibcjn, which lies close to the
shore in lat. 7° 14' N., where vessels might anchor in 4 or 3 f ithoms, o(f its western
side ; but tlie harbour is narrow, and requires care in entering. Frdui Telibon, a chain
of high rocky islands stretches along the coast to the north end of Pulo Tmtto. with a
good passage of 8, 9, and 10 fathoms water on the outside; and if bound to Queda, a
small vessel may pass inside the large islands of Trotto, Lanca\a, and Ladda, between
them and the main, in various soundings, from 4 or 5 fathoms near the coast, to s and
10 fathoms nearest the islands ; for the shore opposite is lined by a shoal mud bank,
extending a great way over towards tiie islands. From thence, she may haul into o or 6
fathoms water near the coast, and anchor in StV or (J fathoms, with Queda lliver en-
230
MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST.
trance £. by N. Northerly, Elephant Mount N. E. i N., Boonting- Islands about
S. S. E., and the Rocky Islands, called Payers, or Peers, about 4 or 5 leagues to the
westward, bearing W. by S. Southerly. There is very little trade here, since tiie estab-
lishment of the English at Pulo Penang, more particularly since it became a conquest
to the Siamese. Queda Town, in lat. 6° 6' N., stands on both sides the entrance of
the river, which, although fronted by a mud flat, has sufficient depth of water within
for sloops and brigs to anchor, off the Rajah's residence, about 10 or 12 miles above
Tides the town. The tide rises about 5 or 6 feet, and flows to nearly 12 hours at full and
change of moon. Elephant Mount is near the shore, in lat. 6° 10' N. ; and in lat.
6° 21' N. lies Parlis River, off which the coasting vessels anchor in 3 fathoms, to the
S.W. of four islands that lie near the main, and with a Haycock Mount bearing to the
N. N. Eastward, as the mud bank lining the coast is here very flat. There are several
rivers between Junkseylon and Queda; Phoonga, to the S. S. Eastward of Junkseylon,
is a river of some importance, where the Siamese build proas and boats; the town is a
considerable way up the river. Trang River, inside of Telibon, is also navigable by
proas, or small vessels. Between Telibon and Pappan, there are some dangerous rocks
covered at high water.
Little Passage. LITTLE PASSAGE is preferable to that last mentioned, inside of the principal
islands ; and if you intend to proceed by it, after rounding the Brothers at .3 or 4 miles'
distance, steer East and E. by S. for Palo Mohea, which will carry you outside of the
Pilgrims, and about 8 or 9 miles to the eastward of the Guilder Rocks, if there be no
oblique current.
Guilder Rocks. GUILDER, or SANGALD ROCKS, in lat. 7° 10' N., is a reef elevated about 2
or 3 feet above water, having 30 and 33 fathoms to the N. Eastward, and from 36 to
40 fathoms water close to it on the outside ; it bears about South 5 leagues from the
Pilgrims, and the same distance W. by S. ^ S. from Pulo Mohea, requiring great care
if soundings are got near it in the night, more particularly as it is said to be visible only
in the N. E. monsoon, or dry season.
Having approached Pulo Mohea, pass it on the west side at 4 or 5 miles' distance,
by which the Guilder Rocks will have a berth of 3 leagues to the westward : from Pulo
Mohea steer about S. E. by E. for Edam, which is the easternmost of three small islands,
of middling height, situated nearly raid-way between Pulo Bouton and Trotto ; in
other dangers, passing betwixt Trotto and Edam, borrow on the latter, to avoid the Black Rock that
lies 4 or 5 miles oft' the N.W. side of Trotto, nearly even with the surface at low water.
There is also a dangerous reef fronting the S. E. end of Bouton, on which the sea
breaks, having a passage with 16 fathoms water between it and Edam Islands, which
may be chosen if necessary.
From Edam, steer S. Easterly for the S.W. end of the Laddas, which pass in 16
fathoms if the wind be Northerly or N. Easterly ; then steer about E. by S. for the
Peers, and pass to the westward of them, giving a berth of 3 miles to Rotta, the
westernmost islet. Having passed the Peers, steer E. S. Easterly for the Boonting
Islands, and if bound to Pulo Penang, pass them on the outside at a moderate
distance.
The passage between Trotto and the Laddas is also safe, with depths from 14 to 9
and 8 fathoms, and along the west side of the former the depths are 7 and 6 fathoms
near the shore : about a third of the passage over from the S. E. point of Trotto lies a
Pyramidal Rock, with 15 fathoms close to it, and near the point there is a smaller
MALACCA STRAIT. — MALAY COAST. 231
rock and an islet. Having passed these, borrow afterwards near tlie Ladda shore, to
give a berth to the shoal mud bank that stretches from the main land far over towards
the islands.
THE LANCAVA GROUP consists of three large islands, and many smaller Lancava
ones bordering them to the eastward and southward ; they extend nearly N.\V. and '''"'"''•
S. E. from the South part of Pulo Ladda,* in lat. (f B' JN., to the north end of Trotto,
in lat. 6° 49' N. They are high bold islands, particularly Lancava, the centre one,
which has on it a high peaked hill : there is also upon Pulo Ladda, to the S. East-
ward, a peaked hill resembling the former, in about lat. 6° 21' N., Ion. 99° 50' E., which
is generally called Ladda Peak.
The Laddas, which form the South and East parts of the group, are high rugged The Laddas.
islands, of barren aspect ; betwixt the two largest islands, at their southern extremity,
there is a safe harbour, called Bass Harbour by Captain Forrest. The channel lead-
ing to it from the north-westward is along the S.W. entl of Lancava, where the depths
are from 7 to 12 fathoms ; and there are from 4 or 5 to 9 and 10 fathoms water in the
channel betwixt the islands leading into the harbour from the southward. The south
part of Lancava, about 3 or 4 miles to the northward of liass Harbour, is partly
cleared, and inhabited by Malays and Chinese; but there being no trade at these
islands, the harbour is not frequented.
Trotto, the northernmost large island of the group, has a cove or small harbour at
its N.E. end ; and the channel that separates Lancava from this island contains sound-
ings from 8 to 14 fathoms, as mentioned above. About 3 or 4 leagues outside these
islands, the depths are from 24 to 30 fathoms, and close to them from 8 to 12 or 1(J
fathoms, but not very regular. There are tides among and inside of them, but cur-
rents prevail frequently in the offing, setting mostly to the northward in the S.W. mon-
soon, and to the southward during the N. E. monsoon.
PULO BOUTON is formed of two large and high islands, very near each other, Puio Boviton.
with some contiguous islets, and a reef of rocks off their S. E. extremity. The large
islands are both high, and the easternmost is formed of a regular sloping pyramidal
mountain, generally called Bouton Dome, which may be seen about 17 or 18 leagues.
By mean of observations, taken when passing at various times, I made the Dome in lat.
6° 33' N., Ion. 99° 20^' E., or 19^t m'les to the eastward of the meridian of Pulo Pera;
and the body of the two islands appearing as one when seen from the westward, in lat.
6° 34' N.
This group is farther from the coast than any of the other islands which front the
eastern side of the strait ; the depths close to Pulo Bouton are from 17 to 26 fathoms;
3 or 4 leagues outside of it from 30 to 35 fathoms ; and mid-way between it and Pulo
Pera, generally from 40 to 50 fathoms.
* Captain Forrest calls the lar^e central island Pulo Laddn, wliich gnicrnlly bears the name Lancava ; and
to the easternmost large island, commonh/ called Pulo Ladda, he gives the name of Lancaway. Strangers landing
on anj' of these islands, ought to be cautious if they jienetrate inland, for the snakes are lure very large. When
the Princess Royal's boat landed on Trotto, the crew killed a snake '22 feet in lengtli, tlie skin of wiiich I after-
wards saw at Canton. These islands are a rendezvous lor pirates, who are on the look-out to attack trading
proas or small coasting vessels ; they have sometimes been known to lurk about the entrance of Penang
Harbour.
t Captain Heywood made it in Ion. 99° 20' E., by lunar observations and chronometers.
232
MALACCA STRAIT. — PENANG.
Piilo Pera,
PULO PERA, in lat. 5° 42' N., Ion. 99° 0' E.,* is a higli, round, barren rock, lying
nearly mid-way between Diamond Point and the coast of Queda, and may be dis-
cerned 6 or 7 leagues from a ship's deck. At leaving the strait, a departure is some-
times taken from this island, and when the weather is cloudy, during the S.W. mon-
soon, it is not unfrequently the first land seen after running into the entrance of the
strait; for Pulo Rondo and the south end of the Great Nicobar are not always dis-
cerned in passing.
Pera being steep to, with soundings from 40 to 50 fathoms very near it all round,
should be avoided, in the South-west monsoon particularly ; for then calms and faint
airs are likely to prevail in its neighbourhood, during which ships have been carried by
the currents towards it, and were obliged to anchor in deep water to prevent beino-
driven against the steep rock. The soundings, to the distance of 5 or 6 miles from it
in all directions, are from 40 to 60 fathoms ; but (5 or 7 leagues to the westward of it
there are none to be obtained with 00 or 70 fathoms of line.
Penang, or
Prince of
Wales Island.
PULO PENANG, called also PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND, bears from
Pulo Pera E. by S., distant 25 leagues. The soundings decrease regularly from 45 or
50 fathoms near the latter to 30 and 25 fathoms within 5 or 6 leagues of the former.
Penang extends from lat. 5° 15' to 5° 28' N., being nearly 5 leagues in length and 7 or
8 miles in breadth ; the west coast is slightly concave, with a space of woody low land
fronting the sea. There are two small islands near the S.W. point, the northernmost
of w hich is bold to approach, having from 5 to 7 fathoms very near it : opposite to this
islet, under a point of the principal island, water may be procured.
Pulo Jerajah, lying about 5 miles S. by W. of the fort at George Town, is about
2 miles in extent N. N. E. and S. S.W., and is a high bold island, rising in a pyra-
midal form ; betwixt it and the western shore are 5 and 6 fathoms water in the small
channel, continued from the inside of the Long Sand. The east side of Pulo Jerajah
is bold, steep to approach, and forms the west side of the proper channel to the South
of the Long Sand : farther southward, the S. E. end of Penang, and Pulo Ramio off
it, bound the west side of the channel at its southern entrance. The S. E. point of
Penang and Pulo Ramio are both safe to approach.
The N.W. end of the island is high uneven land, and excepting the south part, and
the eastern side, where the town is built, and where there is a considerable tract of
cultivated low land contiguous to the sea, the rest of the island is high and covered
with trees. When viewed at a great distance from the offing, it has a regular oblong
appearance, and is discernible about 20 leagues in clear weather.
About 5;| miles West from the fort flagstaff, stands the mountain on which sig-
nals are displayed for ships approaching the island. By means of trigonometrical
and barometrical admeasurement, I made it2,170feet,t perpendicular height, abovethe
* From the S.part of Juiikseylon, I measured 0' 38i' E. by chron.to Pulo Pera, making it in 98^ 58' 1
From Malacca 3 12^ W. do. do 99 :^|
From the South end of Nicobar ... 5 1| E. do. do 98 59 '^^^"J'-
From Golden Mount 3 12 E. do. do 98 59| 98038"'E.
From Malacca, Captain Macintosh ... 3 15 W. do. do 99
From Madras, Captain P. Haywood ... 18 39 E. do. do 98 59,
Other ob-^ervations place Pulo Pera about 2 or 2,^ miles farther East,
t By Lieut. \V core's survey, the mountain called Bell Retire, or Government Hill, which is placed 4|- miles
West of the fort, is 2,350 feet above the level of the sea ; and West Hill, lying a mile farther West, is 2,713
feet.
MALACCA STRAIT. — PENANG. 233
level of the sea ; and at a .small distance from it, an adjoining summit appeared to be
about GO or 80 feet higher than the signal mountain.
Fort Cornwallis is built on the N. E. point of the island, close to the town, which The Fort,
is called George Town by the Europeans, or Tanjang Panaique by the Malays. The
principal exports are pepper, beetle-nut, rattans, tin, and some gold, brought by the
Malay proas, from the main, from Sumatra, Java, and other islands to the eastward,
and for which they receive opium, piece-goods, arrack, dollars, &c. Water and lire-
wood may be procured at moderate prices ; also bullocks and poultry which are brought
from the coasts of Perah and Queda, but they sell high, and are scarce when the
harbour abounds with ships. The trade of Junkseylon, Queda, Salangore, and other
Malay ports, was formerly concentrated here, very little business being done at any of
those places : most of the trade, however, has now passed to Singapore.
The flagstaff of the fort, by good observations, I made in lat. 5° 24^' N.,* Ion. 100°
21' E., by mean of lunar observations, and 2° 1|^' E. from the south end of Junksey-
lon by chronometers.
The harbour is nearly 2 miles in breadth, from the Fort Point to the main, with
soundings of 12 to 14 fathoms in the middle, 6 and 7 fathoms near the Malay shore,
and 9 or 10 fathoms near the Fort Point, which is nearly steep to. The best berth to
moor in a large ship is about a quarter of a mile to the southward of the point, in
9 or 10 fathoms, and closer to the town in small vessels ; as the tides are more regular
here than abreast the point, where ships are liable to take turns in their cables in
tending.
Higii water on the shore about 2^ hours, on full and change of moon, but the flood Tides.
runs to the southward until 3 hours, in the middle of the harbour ; velocity of the tides
from 2 to 3 knots during the springs, and the perpendicular rise from 7 to 9 feet.
The Island of Penang was presented by the King of Queda to Captain F. Light,
and taken possession of by him in 1786, for the East-India Company ; the Company
have also obtained a grant of a considerable tract of the main land fronting the island,
which is all low near the sea, except a small hill a little inland, contiguous to Praya
River.
To sail into the harbour, all ships from the northward approach it by the North, or Directions for
Great Channel, which is preferable at all times for large ships, because the South h^bolr'."'" ""^
Channel is dangerous to proceed through without a pilot ; or unless the navigator is
acquainted with it, and his vessel not large.
If bound in with a westerly wind, steer for the north end of Penang, which is high,
bold, and safe to approach ; with the wind at N.E. or Northward, borrow towards the
Ladda Islands and Peers, and after rounding them at 2 or 3 leagues' distance, steer be-
tween S. E. byE. and E. S. E. for the Boonting Islands. These are of moderate Boonting
height, four in number, with an islet between them ; and they extend along the Queda
shore nearly North and South, about 4 or 5 leagues to the northward of the north
end of Penang. Pulo Boonting, the northernmost and largest, lies opposite the High
Land or Peak of Queda ; the second is called Sesson ; the third Pangel ; the south-
ernmost Bidan, which is in lat. 5° 45' N., and to theE.S.E. of it is the River Marboo,
having a bank of shoal water stretching from it close to Bidan: the deepest* water
insidethis island is 4 and o fathoms, and 7 fathoms inside the others ; excepting Pulo
Boonting, which has only 2 or 2-^ fethoms inside of it, being nearest to the shore.
* Captain P. Heywood made it in lat. 5° 25'N., Ion. 100" Sl'E., by mean of lunar observations, and 19° 59' E.
from JIadras Flagstaff, by mean of chronometers in four different voyages. In the Admiralty chart from the
survey of Lieut. Woore. R.N.,the Ion. is 100^23' E. ; which is also adopted by Lieut, llaper.
VOL. II. 2 II
234 MALACCA STRAIT. — PENANG.
These islands may be approached to H or 15 fathoms in the night, or to any distance
thought proper in tlie day, there being no danger but what is visible. Having passed
them, the course is about S. S.E., in order to keep mid-way betwixt the north part of
Penang and the main, which is desirable on account of an extensive flat baniv. or bar
whicii stretches from side to side, and on which the deepest water is about mid-channel,
or rather nearest to the Malay shore. The least water on this bank is 4 fathoms at low
water spring tides, very even soundings ; yet it is unpleasant passing over it in a large
ship at low water, if drawing upwards of 20 feet, particularly with much swell, but
this seldom happens.
The N.E. point of the island is about 4 miles to theN.W. of the Fort Point, having
at a small distance outside of it the rocky islet Pulo Teecoos, with some rocks around ;
when abreast this islet, the water deepens gradually towards the harbour. The bay
formed betwixt the fort point and the N.E. point is occupied by a shoal mud flat, steep
from 5 to 4, then 3 and 2 fathoms.
Steering towards the entrance of the harbour in daylight, Pulo Bidan, kept about
N. by W., is a good mark : during the night, there is no danger running in, if the wea-
ther be clear and the land distinctly seen; for in such case, even with a contrary wind,
persons a little acquainted may work into the harbour without fear, as far as Pulo Tee-
coos, or even a little farther.
When passing over the flat bank, between the north part of the island and the main,
the soundings are not a sufticient guide, the depths being nearly equal from side to side,
until either shore is approached within ]^ miles ; therefore, in the night, it is necessary
to attend particularly to the appearance of the land, to enable you to keep in the pro-
per track. The shore of the main, being low and covered with trees, will not be so
conspicuous as the high land of the island ; consequently, the latter will generally
appear nearest, when you are in mid-channel between them.
When Pulo Teecoos is approached, the water will gradually deepen, as you are then
over the shoalest part of the bank, and ought to make short tacks in working up to the
harbour, for here the channel becomes more contracted than farther out. The rocks
that project a little way from Pulo Teecoos are steep to, and may be approached to 5 or
'5^ fathoms, at low water ; and in 5j to 6 fathoms will be proper depths to tack from
the edge of the mud bank that lines the shore of the island, from thence nearly to the
Fort Point. In standing towards the main, tack when the depths decrease a little
under those found in mid-channel; abreast the fort, and 2 or 3 miles to the northward
of it, about 7 fathoms is good depth for tacking from the Queda shore.
In the night, do not run amongst the shipping, unless well acquainted, but anchor
till daylight abreast Pulo Teecoos, or betwixt it and the Fort Point.
Directions for Departing froui the harbour, large ships generally go out by the North Channel,
iwbou/'"^ even when bound to the southward, although this occasions a loss sometimes of one or
two days, when north-westers prevail in the S.W. monsoon. The directions given
above will answer either for sailing out or in by this channel.
soutii Channel A large shlp ought not to adopt the South Channel unless a good pilot be procured,
bankr""^"""* ^^^ several large ships have grounded on the sands which bound it.* Navigators in
(,.V.«.^WV,V* W.i I..W oc»..v*o .....V... ^^l...V. iV. i,^,,j,l
charge of large ships deeply laden are therefore, in general, averse to going out by the
South Channel.
On the west side, the South Channel is bounded by the Long Sand, which begins
* The Lowajee, from Bombay, bound to China, going out by the South Channel, with a pilot on board, and
drawing 21 feet water, got upon the Praya Sand nearly at high tide ; here she lay 12 hours, and strained consi-
derably by heeling off the bank, and the danger would have been great had she not fortunately floated on the
following tide.
MALACCA STRAIT. — PENANG. 235
about three-quarters of a mile to the southward of the Fort Point, and stretches nearly
to the north point of Pulo Jerajah, having a small ciiannel of 3, 4, and 5 fathoms water
betwixt it and the western shoie.
The South Channel is bounded on the east side by Praya Sand, the Middle Ground
or Spit, and Kio Flat : Praya Sand extends about 2^ miles North and South, parallel
to the Long Sand, from which it is about three-quarters of a mile distant ; and the
north end of it bears S. by E. ^ E. from the fort flagstaff, distant about 2 miles, and
is very steep to, having 9 and 10 fathoms at the distance of a cables length : it should
not be approached nearer than this distance, being the most dangerous part of the
channel. Praya River, which is about a mile N. Eastwai'd of the north end of Praya
Sand, extends a considerable way inland, with 2^7 and 3 fathoms water at the en-
trance. The Middle Ground, or Spit, is a narrow ridge of sand, stretching North and
South within one-fiflh of a mile of the east side of the Long Sand ; the narrow space
between them is called the Bar, and has 3^ and 3^ fathoms on it at low water ; the
least water on the Middle Ground at low water spring tides is 17 feet. The south
ends of the Middle Ground and Praya Sand join, and both terminate in the northern
extremity of Kio Flat, a very extensive mud bank, which bounds the east side of the
channel from thence to seaward, and is named from Pulo Kio, situated near the Malay
shore.* This flat is a soft mud bank, stretching from the coast nearly to the S.E. end
of Pulo Penang, having from 2| to 3 and 4 fathoms irregular soundings on its edge,
w here it bounds the east side of the channel.
Buoys were first placed on the eastern edge of the Long Sand, on each end of the
Praya Sand, and on the north point of the Spit, to point out the bar and channel :
these having been destroyed or taken away by the Malays, were afterwards replaced
by beacons, which are also sometimes removed.
Ships bound out by the South Channel generally weigh about half-flood, and steer Remarks for
S. by E. and South, to enter the channel between the Long Sand and Praya Sand ; f^o'^setwarli!
when the bar is approached, it will be proper to keep near the eastern edge of the Long
Sand ; the depth in crossing it is 4f , or nearly 5 fathoms at high water spring tides.
When over the bar, a South course should be steered ; the water will deepen instantly
to 7 fathoms, and afterwards shoal to 5t, fathoms betwixt the north end of Pulo Jerajah
and Kio F'lat. AVhen the north point of Pulo Jerajah bears to the northward, tlie sound-
ings will decrease to and 7 fathoms ; it will then be proper to haul near that island,
and these depths will continue through the channel, in steering past the S. E. end of
Penang and Pulo Ramio, to seaward. The greatest depths are near the east sides of the
islands, which are steep to ; but on the east side of the channel, the water shoals suddenly
upon the edge of Kio Flat. After passing Pulo Ramio close on the east side, the course
is about S. S.W. or S. by W., according to the set of the tide, to proceed througii tlie
fair channel, betwixt Kio Flat and the mud bank on the west side the entrance.
The leading mark is, to keep the body of Pulo Jerajah on with the east end of
Pulo Ramio, which will carry a ship fairly out : if Pulo Jerajah is shutting in with
Pulo Ramio, she will be on the w est side ; and if entirely open with it, she will be on
I the east side of the channel.
j The South Channel may be entered in fine weather, by ships drawing under 17 feet
! water; and pilots have been stationed at Pulo Jerajah, wiio will come out on the
I proper signal being made, and carry such ships into the harbour.
I • This island, or rather these islands, for there are two, lie off the entrance of the Jiinjon River ; in the
I Admiralty chart they are called North and South Kra ; and the extensive flat outside of them is named the Great
Kra Flat. In this chart, also, the sand, here called the Long Sand, is named the Middle Bank.
2 H 2
236
MALACCA STRAIT. — ISLANDS.
From Penang
to the south-
ward.
Fulo Binding.
To sail to the
anchorage.
FROM PENANG TO THE ARROAS, AND TO PARCELAR HILL.
FROM the south-west end of Penang, Pulo Binding bears nearly S. S.E., distant
about 60 miles, and the coast between them, which is mostly low and woody near the
sea, is slightly concave. High mountains appear inland, in the kingdom of Perah ;
there are also some h '
near the sea, to the northward of Pulo Dinding, which, in
coming from that direction, greatly resemble those of that island, and have therefore
been called False Dinding.
The whole of the coast of Perah is lined by a shoal mud bank, extending out from
2 to 3^ leagues ; the depth decreases suddenly on the edge of it, when under 15 fathoms,
but you may occasionally stand into 9 or 10 fathoms in working, with the lead kept
briskly going ; it would be imprudent to borrow under these depths, particularly in the
night.*
If abreast the N.W. end of Penang, with a fair wind, steer along the coast at a
moderate distance, in soundings from 16 to 25 or 30 fathoms; in working, you may
approach the island to 1 or 12 fathoms, and the edge of the mud bank that fronts the
coast between it and Pulo Dinding may be approached to the same depths in daylight.
By keeping in with the coast, the westerly current usually prevailing in the offing will
be partly avoided ; more favourable winds may be also expected, and if necessary
to anchor occasionally, it can be done with more convenience than in deeper water.
PULO DINDING, in lat. 4° 16' N., is high and woody ; it lies near the main, and
appears, when first seen, to have a hill at each end : close to it, on the S.W. side, lies
Little Pulo Dinding, with two islets at its western part near the south point, to the
W. S. Westward of which, at 4 or 5 miles' distance, there is a spit or bank of mud,
probably not dangerous. We shoaled suddenly from 14 to 6 j fathoms on its edge, and
although perhaps about 6 fathoms may be the least water on it, a proper berth ought
to be given it in passing. There is a shoal to the northward of Great Dinding, which
is avoided by keeping out in 9 or 10 fathoms.
At the east end of Great Dinding there is a stream of fresh water near the ruins
of the Dutch fort. If you wish to procure water at this place, pass betwixt the
northernmost Sambilangs and Little Dinding, where the depths are mostly
from 20 to 26 fathoms. There is a rock above water, nearly mid-way betwixt Great
Dinding and the Sambilangs, having a safe channel on either side ; the rock is best
avoided by attending to the tide, and steering close along the bold south shore of Din-
ding to the east point, where you may anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms close to the eastward
of the point, or to the southward of it, as seems most convenient. H. M. S. Harrier
anchored here, March 12th, 18.34, in 7 fathoms about a quarter of a mile oflT the
sandy beach. A spit of sand with 1 fathom water extends from the inner part of Pulo
Katta, the whole length of the island ; this joins the mud bank that fronts the main, at
the north entrance of Dinding Strait, having 5 fathoms water between the spit and the
Malay shore.
* The Alfred and True Briton, at 8 p. m. September 29th, 1799, grounded on the edge of the bank, not far
to the southward of Penang, the south point of it bearing N. N.W., Saddle Island N. N.W. h W., off the low land
on the Malay shore about 7 miles. They were employed from that time until the 4th of October in carrying
on their stream and kedge anchors, and heaving the ships up to them each tide at high water, through the soft
mud, when both ships got fairly afloat. This case shews the propriety of not making too free with the edge of
the bank in the night. See the directions for sailing along the Malay side of the Strait, p. 218.
MALACCA STRAIT. — ARROA ISLANDS. 237
Captain Vassall, of the Harrier, sent an officer to examine the north entrance of the
strait, and he found the passage between the islets and the north point of Great Din-
ding to be about a quarter of a mile wide, with depths of 6, 7, 8, to 10 fathoms, and
room for a ship to sail through with a fair wind, or to back and hll through with the
tide, when the wind is contrary.
THE SAMBILANGS, or NINE ISLANDS, lying off the entrance of Perah sambUangs.
River, to the southward of Dinding, extend 7 or 8 miles nearly N. E. and S.W. ; they
are mostly small, high, bluff islands, covered with trees, and discernible about 7 leagues.
The South Sambilang, or outermost of these islands, is in lat. 4° 3' N., Ion. 100° 35' E.,
bearing E. ^ N. from Pulo Jarra, distant about 7 leagues. To the N. Westward of it
about 1 or \^ miles, there is a rock speckled black and white, which appears allivkite
when the sun shines on it; and about 2 miles to the N. N.W. of the same island, and
a mile from the former rock, there is a black rock, not much elevated above water.
These rocks should not be approached in the nigiit, being steep to ; for the soundings
near them, and 1 or 2 miles outside, are generally from 23 to 26 fathoms, and the same
depths are found very near and amongst the Sambilangs. There is a safe channel
inside these islands, with soundings of 15 to 23 fathoms, and the channels betwixt
some of them are also safe, but rather narrow.
PERAH or PERAK RIVER, the entrance of which lies about 8 miles to the Perah River,
eastward of the Sambilangs, is said to extend 150 miles inland. The entrance, which
is wide, is formed between the points of Oorlong and Pulo Ratta, but in the middle
and south side of the entrance the water is shoal, and there are many places dry at low
water, from thence South towards Salangore. The proper channel into Perah River,
is to the S. Eastward of Pulo Dinding, by borrowing near the north point of the en-
trance, and keeping along the low bank on that side the river, where the depths are
irregular from 2^ to 3, 5, and 7 fathoms. The tides inside have a velocity of 4 to 5 miles
per hour during tlie springs.
Captain Vassall, of H. M. S. Harrier, went above 30 miles up this river in March,
1834, and at low tide obtained a supply of water of excellent quality. The only part
of difficult navigation is the entrance, where the banks are shoal ; but this fine river,
which becomes a mile in width in some places, with deptiis of 4 and 5 to 10 and 11
fathoms, may be navigated by ships drawing 15 feet without difficulty. The banks of
the river are mostly all low jungle.
PULO JARRA, in lat. 4° 0' N„ Ion. 100° 12' E., bearing South from the centre of Puio Jarra.
Penang, distant 27 leagues, is small, covered with trees, and may be discerned about
7 leagues. It is steep to, having from 33 to 30 fathoms very near it in every direction,
and the same depths between it and Pulo Varela. In mid-channel, betwixt it and
the Sambilangs, there are generally from 30 to 32 fathoms, decreasing to 25 or 26
fathoms near tiie latter islands.
Although Pulo Jarra may be passed on either side, the channel betwixt it and the
Sambilangs is preferable, for the current often sets strong to the N. Westward in the
middle of the strait, and calms are more prevalent there than near the coast.
THE ARROA IS LAN I)S, consisting of several small islands and rocks, lie nearly
mid-way between the Sumatra shore and tiie extensive bank, near the parallel of 3°,
called the North Sands.
238
MALACCA STRAIT. — ARROA ISLANDS.
Round Arroa. The RouND Arroa, in lat. 2° 49' N., Ion. 100° 40' E.,* is a high, round rock, with
some trees on it, bearing from the South Sambilang about S. ^ E., distant about 24
leagues, and may be discerned about leagues. It has several rocky islets near it, two of
which are visible 4 leagues : one of these lies to the northward, the other to the south-
ward, with straggling rocks around ; and about \^ miles S. S. W. from the Arroa,
there is a rock above water, called the South Rock. The Round Arroa is the prin-
cipal mark for the western part of the East and West Channel, betwixt the sands.
Long Arroa. The LoNG, or GuEAT Arroa, in lat. 2° 52^' N., bearing nearly N.W. from the Round
Arroa, distant 6 miles, consists of two contiguous isles, and is nearly a mile in length ;
it is covered with trees, flat, and not so high as the Round Arroa : the shores appear to
be lined with rocks, and a reef extends from it to the N. E. about half a mile. The
Malay fishermen sometimes frequent these isles to fish, and procure turtle ; boats
Water. landing here ought, therefore, to be on their guard. Water can be got in a cove with
a fine sandy beach, on the east side the southernmost of the two isles. The Locko, in
1787, sent iier long-boat to procure water, but the Malays, then residing here, would
not allow the boat to have any without payment.
Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, who surveyed these isles in 1819,
says, a ship may anchor near enough to command the watering places with her guns.
April 30th, 1811, the William Pitt's boat landed here, and saw a small hut, which
appeared to have been inhabited a short time before. Several springs of good water
descended into the deep valleys, which were lined on each side with cabbage trees ;
and the face of the island was covered with strong high grass. They had 10 fathoms
water close to the sandy beach, but the small islets which front the Arroa are mostly
united by reefs of sharp pointed rocks, few of which are visible at high water, or at
the distance which ships pass. Within a mile of the N.W. and north sides of Long
Tides. Arroa, the depths are regular from 9 to 11 or 12 fathoms. The tide appeared to rise
on the rocks about 10 feet perpendicularly.
Western Arroa. The WESTERN Arroa is the name applied to the group of islets and rocks lying
about a mile to the westward of the Long Arroa, and on the same rocky bank.
The Arroas ought not to be approached in the night, on account of the rocks adja-
cent; one of these, called the East Rock, is ajlat blade rock, very little elevated above
the surface at high water, and lies about 4^ miles N.E. by N. from the Round Arroa, and
nearly East from the Long Arroa 6^ miles. West or W. h S. from the East Rock 1^
miles, there is a sunken rocA, covered at half-flood, on which the sea sometimes breaks;
the ship Seton, of Bombay, passed between this sunken rock and the East Rock, in
1796, and carried soundings from 17 to 11 fathoms. Nearly 2 miles West from this
sunken rock, and 3^ miles to the eastward of Long Arroa, there is another rock above
water, called High Rock, surrounded by other rocks ; but there are 9 fathoms regular
soundings between this rock and the sunken rock East from it ; and between it and the
Long Arroa the depths are from 7 or 8 to 10 fathoms, in a channel '2h miles wide.
About 2f miles N. Eastward from the Long Arroa there is a rock of considerable height
above water, called North Rock, with regular soundings very near the rocks that
front it, of 8 and 9 fathoms, mud.
Several ships have been set to the westward of the Arroas by currents, and have
lost much time working with northerly winds round the Long Arroa, and the black
rock off it ; finding, however, mostly regular soundings, over a soft bottom. The Lowa-
jee, and other ships, which fell to the westward of the Arroas, during northerly winds,
Rocks.
Channel to the
southward of
the Arroas.
* Captain Ross made it in lat. 2° 48' 15" N., Ion. 100'= 38' 15" E.
MALACCA STRAIT. — NORTH SANDS. 239
went to the southward of them, and after passing the Round Arroa, hauled to the
N. Eastward into the proper channel, having experienced various soundings from 7
to 1 1 fathoms to the southward of these islands.
Captain Ross observes, that if a ship happen to be working near the Arroas against
a heavy N.W. swell, she will find shelter from N.W. or West winds, by anchoring
under the Long Arroa, observing, that a reef (before mentioned) projects about half a
mile from its north end to the N. N. E.
Being about mid-channel, between Pulo Jarra and the South Sambilang, or rather Passage from
nearer the latter, to guard against westerly currents, steer about S. S. E., or S. 20° E., '^e samuiiangs
. .. '"to tils wtstcni
if you pass near the Sambilang, which will carry you well to the N. E. of the Arroas, edge of the
but not too far on tlie North Sands. Excepting a shingly spot in lat. 3° 20' N., bear- ^""^ ■'^^"'''•
ing South from the Sambilangs, with 13 fathoms on it, the soundings in this track are
pretty regular, generally between 34 and 40 fathoms in a direct line from Pulo Jarra
nearly to the Arroas, and 24 to 30 fathoms in a direct line between the South Sam-
bilang and western extremity of the North Sands.
When the winds incline at eastward or E. S. Eastward, keep near the Malay coast,
in soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 8 or 10 leagues past the Sambilangs; then
steer more southerly to get soundings of 16 or 18 fathoms on the north-western verge
of tJje North Sands ; and as there is no danger on the north-western and western
edges of these sands, they may be rounded ck)se, by borrowing occasionally to 14 or
16 fathoms, and edging out to 20 or 24 fathoms as circumstances require, until the
Arroas or Parcelar Hill are seen.
THE NORTH SANDS are very extensive, consisting of various small patches or North sands.
spits of sand, separated by considerable spaces of regular soundings from 8 to 12, 14,
and 1(5 fathoms. There are many dangers on the eastern part of the North Sands,
adjacent to the coast ; the middle and southern parts are also dangerous, but the
north-western and western edges may be approached with safety, if the lead is kept
briskly going. The N.W. exti'emity of the sands is in lat. 3° 16' N., Ion. 100° 50' E., position.
and from hence most of the spits stretch about S. E. by S., the Two-and-Half
Fathoms Bank, in lat. 2° 53^' N., being the southernmost danger of the North
Sands.
The depths decrease quickly in approaching the N. Western extremity of the North
Sands, from 28 or 26 to 10, f), or 8 fathoms, on the spits that form this part, wliich
bear N. N. E. from the Arroas, 8 or 9 leagues distant. On tiie spits which form the
N. Western and Western boundary of the sands, there appear to be no dangers ; I have
generally found the depths on the outer spits to be 9 and 10 fathoms, when standing
upon them with a working wind ; 7^ or 8 fathoms on the spits a little farther on the
bank to the eastward ; and from 11 to 14 fathoms in the channels between them. When
the Round Arroa is seen from the mast-head bearing from S.S.W., to S. S.W. ^ W.,
you are on the N.W. edge of the North Sands, and will pass over spits of 8 and 10
fathoms. The Round Arroa S. S.W. ^ W., seen from the fore-yard, we iiad 7^ fathoms.
The Round Arroa from the fore-yard S.W.^ S., and Parcelar Hill E. by S. ^ S., just
visible from the poop, had 7 fathoms, hard sand.
As the spits which form the exterior boundary of the North Sands to the N. West- Directions.
ward have 9 or 10 fathoms on their edges, it is advisable, when bound to the south-
ward with a contrary wind, to keep near the western edges of the sands in working,
making short tacks to the westward, and standing on their verges occasionally to 10 or
11 fathoms in a large ship, or to 8 or fathoms in a small one. By this means,
240
MALACCA STRAIT. — NORTH SANDS.
Tides.
Shoal banks
and dangers on
the Nortli
Sands.
Blenheim
Shoal, and
southern part
of the North
Sands.
moderate depths will be found for anchoring during the ebb, with tides more regular,
and more favourable, than farther out in deep water towards the Arroas ; for here,
during S. E. winds, a current is often experienced to set to the north-westward and
westward, when tides are prevailing along the edge of the sands. It is high water
about the Arroas, and near the western edge of the North Sands, at 6 hours on full and
change of moon; the strength of the ebb sets generally between N.W. and N.W. by N.,
2^ miles an hour, and it falls about 10 or 14 feet perpendicular; the flood sets in
the opposite direction, about S. E. ^ S., slanting a little on the western edges of the
North Sands, or running nearly parallel to them, but it is not so strong as the ebb.
Although the north-western and Avestern edges of the North Sands are not dangerous,
it would be very imprudent to stand over towards the middle of them, on account of
the Blenheim Shoal, and other dangers explored by Captain Ross ; nor ought the south-
ern extremity of the sands, usually called the North Sand Head, to be approached
but with great caution, it being terminated by the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank.
Besides the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank and Blenheim Shoal, Captain Ross dis-
covered several other dangers and shoal patches, during his examination of these sands,
in 1819; of these, the following seem to be nearest to the N.W. and western parts,
and consequently are most in the way of ships which may happen to borrow too far in
upon the sands.
Small Bank, with 4f fathoms, in lat. 3° 13^' N., Ion. 100° 52' E., or 14 miles East
from the meridian of Round Arroa, and 4 miles to the S. E. of the N. Westernmost
extremity of the sands.
Sandy Ridge, with 2 to 4 fathoms, extending 3 miles S. E. and N.W., or from lat.
3° 10' N. to 3° 12' N., its N.W. end being about 3 miles E. S. E. from the above
Small Bank, and its S. E. end bearing North a little westerly about 6 or 7 miles from
Blenheim Shoal.
A Spit of Rocks and Sand, with only a few feet water ; its N.W. end is in lat. 3° .9' N.,
and about 2 miles S. E, from the Sandy Ridge. It extends 3 miles S. Easterly, its
S. E. end being about 4 miles N. E. from the Blenheim Shoal.
A Round Small Bank, of 2^ fathoms, in lat. 3°4i' N., mid-way, and in a direct line
between the south end of the above Spit of Rocks and Sand, and Blenheim Shoal,
being distant from each of them about 2 miles.
A Patch of 4| fathoms, in lat. 3° 4' N., about 3 miles W. by N. from Blenheim
Shoal, and near the western part of the sands.
A Bank of 4| fothoms, about 1^ miles in extent, in lat. 2° 59' N., bearing South a
little easterly from Blenheim Shoal about 4 miles, and from the Two-and-Half Fathoms
Bank N. by W.
5 VV. distant 6 miles.
BLENHEIM SHOAL, in lat. 3° 3^' N., bearing about N. by W. 3 leagues from
the Two-and-Half F'athoms Bank, and considerably to the eastward of the edge of the
North Sands, was not known until H. M. S. Blenheim, of 74 guns, Admiral Trou-
bridge, by standing far over on the sands, grounded, and was nearly lost; although
this happened during neap tides, they were obliged to lighten her, by cutting away the
masts, and taking out the guns, &c., before she could be hove off the shoal. Captain
Bissel, of that ship, gave the following account of the shoal, dated H. M. S. Blenheim
aground, April 6th, 1806 : Peak of Salangore Hills N. 56° E., another hill, probabli/
False Parcelar, N. 66° E., Parcelar Hill E. 23° S., distant 8^ or 9 leagues, observed
lat. 3° 3' N. It extends E. N. E. and W. S.W. about If miles, having only 6 and 7
feet in many places at low water neap tides, consequently less on the springs.
MALACCA STRAIT. — NORTH SANDS. 241
TWO-AND-HALF FATHOMS BANK, in lat. 2°53'N., distant 5 leagues West Two.a„d.Hai.
from the south entrance of the Strait of Callam, maybe considered the most dangerous
part of the North Sands, because it fronts the north side of the channel between the
Arroas and Parcelar Hill. H. M. S. Victor examined it with her boats in January,
1005, and found it to extend from N. N.W. to S. S. E. about l^ miles, and about one
mile from E. N, E. to W. S. W. When on it, Parcelar Hill bore E. ^ S., a hill called
False Parcelar IN. E., and the low land was just visible with the eye elevated 10 feet
above the sea. From 2^ to 3 fathoms were the depths found on it at low water, and
it appeared very hard, the lead frequently dipping into iioles, as if on rocks, but brought
up only fine sand ; around the bank the depths increase from 4 and 5 to 10 anti ] 1
fathoms, mostly hard bottom ; and eddies may be seen if the tide is strong, when cross-
ing the spit that projects from its southern extremity into the channel. Ifashipin
borrowing towards the bank with a northerly wind get soundings on this spit or tail
of the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, she ought not to go under 10 or 11 fathoms, but
must edge out to the southward. Several ships have grounded upon this bank at dif-
ferent times, by running in the night, or by borrowing too closely in the day, and were
in great danger of being wrecked.
There is a safe passage between the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank and Blenheim
Shoal, for H. M. Sloop Victor had from 7 to 12 and 14 fathoms, mostly hard sand,
steering from the former N.W. and Northward, and she passed close on the S.W. side
of Blenheim Shoal without discerning it, although she shoaled there to 5^ and 5
fathoms. From thence, she steered N.W. by N. and N. N.W. over the western parts
of the North Sands, in regular soundings from 8^ to 12 fathoms sandy bottom, the
least water being 8^ fathoms ; and the depth increased to 10 and 18 fathoms when she
got upon the northern extremity of the sands. The Mornington passed to the north-
ward of the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, then betwixt it and Blenheim Shoal,
December 12th, 1803, and carried soundings from to 8 and 10 fathoms, with Parce-
lar Hill bearing about E. by S. ^ S.
The Albion, in September, 1800, with Parcelar Hill E. S. E., stood on the sands,
steered eastward, and had no less soundings than 7^, fathoms crossing over to the low
land oft' Callam, where she tacked in 5:^ fathoms.
Parcelar Hill kept E. by S. nearly i S. is the best bearing, according to the survey of
the Nortli Sands, by Capt. Ross, for any ship intending to pass to the northward of the
Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, to avoid the bank of 4i fathoms, described above; and
this bearing will carry her in mid-channel between the Blenheim Shoal and the Two-
and-Half Fathoms Bank. In working through this passage, with a contrary wind,
Parcelar Hill should be kept between E. f S. and E. by S. f S., to avoid tlie Two-and-
Half Fathoms Bank on one side, and Blenheim Shoal on the other : within the limit of
■ these bearings of Parcelar Hill there is no danger, as the channel is about 7 or 8 miles
wide, between the above-named shoals.
Although with Parcelar Hill bearing between E. by S. and E. by S. ^ S., there is a
safe channel over the North Sands, betwixt the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank and
Blenheim Shoal, it has not been used by large ships, as the tides run in strong eddies
over the sands during the springs. There is a channel, which was formerly frequented,
over the eastern part of the North Sands near the land, bounded on each side by dry
sands or breakers, but it now seems intricate, even for small vessels. A l)rig i)rocecd-
ing through it, not long ago, on her passage from Penang to Malacca, worked through
between tlni breakers, in soundings mostly 5 and (i fatlioms^ where the channel appeared
to be from half a mile to a mile broad.
VOL. II. 2 I
242
MALACCA STRAIT. — SOUTH SANDS.
Soundinffi in
the channel
betwixt the
North Sands
and Arroas.
Working in the
night.
Rounding the
edge of the
North Sands,
THE SOUNDINGS between the western part of the North Sands and Long Arroa
are irregular from 35 to 40 fathoms, about mid-cliannel, decreasing fast near the edge
of the sands to 20 or 18 fathoms ; the deep water extends within 4 or 5 miles of the
North Rock lying to the northward of Long Arroa; it then shoals suddenly to 20 and
18 fatlioms, about 2 miles to the N. Eastward of that rock: but in some places the
soundings are very irregular, particularly to N. E. and northward of the rocks which
lie near tlie round Arroa.
Working between Long Arroa and the North Sands in the night, IG or 18 fathoms
are good depths to tack in, from the edge of the sands: the mid-channel track, and
your proximity to the rocks oft' tiie Arroas, will be known by deep soundings of 35
to 46 fathoms; but farther eastward, betwixt Round Arroa and the S.W. part of the
North Sands, the depths decrease, and are there generally irregular, being from 14 to 25
fathoms from side to side, except upon the bank adjacent to the Arroa. The soundings
are more regular contiguous to the edge of the North Sands than in the south side of
the channel.
If in rounding the edge of the North Sands, Round Arroa be never entirely sunk
from the quarter-deck of a large ship, or with the eye elevated above the sea 1(J or 17
feet, she will not be too close to the sands ; but when the Arroa is sunk from the poop,
she will get upon some of the outer spits, into 7 or 8 fathoms, hard sand.
Small hanks on
the south side
of the channel
THE BANKS in and contiguous to the south side of the East-and-West Channel,
between the Arroas and Parcelar Hill, are the following : — A small bank about 7 miles,
N.E. from Round Arroa, and 3 or 4 miles distant from the East Rock, or Hat black
rock ; the least water found on it has been 5^-, 6, 7, and 8 fathoms. To the N. VV.,
about 3 miles from this bank, there is deep water of 40 and 42 fathoms ; and the
soundings between it and the edge of the North Sands are mostly regular from 15 to
20 fathoms.
There is a small bank, bearing East southerly from Round Arroa, distant about
4^ leagues, on which the least water we found, in the Gunjavar, was 4| fathoms, hard
sand.
Another small round bank lies 16 or 17 miles East from Round Arroa, and about
W. ^S. from Parcelar Hill, which is alarming to strangers who suddenly get on it,
although not dangerous. Sounding all over it, we had not less than 5 and 5^ fathoms,
hard sand, at low water spring tides ; and from the ship at anchor, on the middle of
it, the boats deepened fast in every direction, about the distance of a cable's length, to
12 and 14 fathoms.
Erom this small bank, about 3 or 4 miles E. by S. to E. S. E., there are other shoal
patches of hard sand, with soundings of 6, 7, and 8 fathoms on them. From these
shoal patches on the south side of the channel, between the Arroas and the land of
Parcelar, the Round Arroa bears W. 2° S. southerly to W. 1° N., and Parcelar Hill
£. 7° N. to E. 9° N. ; and the westernmost of them, more particularly, are much
nearer to the Arroa than to the low land of Parcelar. The least water on any of them
is prohahly 4^ or 5 fathoms, but they are alarming to strangers, and will be avoided by
not bringing the Round Arroa to the westward of W. \ S., or W. \ S., whilst it can be
discerned from the poop of a lofty ship; or by keeping Parcelar Hill to the eastward
of E. \ N., in passing them.
South Sands. THE SOUTH SANDS are formed of small banks, similar to those of the North
Sands, and some of the patches last mentioned are probably the prominent patches
MALACCA STRAIT. — SOUTH SANDS.
243
of the N.W. end of the sands, generally called the South Sand Head : the breadth of
the channel between it and the North Sand Head is nearly 7 miles. In June, 1795,
Captain Mackintosh, in the Sarah, got upon this extremity of the South Sands ; they
saw the Round Arroa from the mizen shrouds before dark, bearing S. by W. ^ W., and
steered between S. E. by S. and E. by S., in soundings from 2-5 to 16 fathoms until
10 P.M., when they shoaled quickly to 8J fathoms, and anchored. At daylight, they
found they were far to the southward, Parcelar Hill bearing E. 15° N. ; weighed with
the wind at S. S. East, steered N.W. and N.W. by W. in regular soundings, decreas-
ing gradually from 9^ to 6f fathoms, when the hill bore E. 11^° N. : deepened after-
wards to 14 "fathoms, steered N. N. E. and N. E. by N. in 8^~to 20 fathoms, the hill
E. 9° N. ; then steered towards the hill bearing E. 7° N., and had no less than 20
fathoms. When this ship shoaled to 8^ fathoms, with Parcelar Hill bearing E. 15° N.,
she was probably not far from danger on the South Sands, as will appear by the fol-
lowing extract from the journal of the Henry Addington.
August .31st, 1811, at noon, saw breakers on the South Sands, bearing from South
to S. by E., distant about (J miles ; Parcelar Hill bearing E. 10° N., east point of
Pulo Loomat N. 50° E., body of Pulo Callam N. 40° E., in 20 flithoms. The Essex,
in company, had Parcelar Hill bearing E. by N. ^ N., distant 12 or 14 miles, the trees
under the south end of the hill just visible, but none of the low land to the soutiiward,
when the breakers bore S. ^ E. 5 or miles, and Long Rollers about the north point
of the South Sands S.W., then in 25 fathoms. The Cumberland, also in company,
had Parcelar Hill bearing E. 1-5° N., distant about 12 or 14 miles, when tlie body of
the breakers bore S. 9° E. about 4 miles, appearing to extend about three-quarters of a
mile in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and are probably not visible except when the tide
is low, or with a considerable swell.
H.M.S. Alligator, July 18th, 18;J2, had only 2| fathoms on one of these dangerous
patches, with Parcelar Hill bearing E. by N.^ N.
The South Sands, from the N. Western extremity to abreast of Parcelar Point, were
very little known, until the survey of these dangers by Captain Ross, in 1819.
The General Kyd, September 17th, 1821, at 5 p.m. lost sight of the Round Arroa,
bearings. 8.3° VV. ; at 6^ p.m. Parcelar Hill bore E. 2° N., at io^ p.m. it bore N.65°E.,
seen with the night glass, and ten minutes after, she suddenly grounded on one of the
northernmost patches of the South Sands, where she lay in great danger till the 23rd.
She was then, after great exertion, hove clear of the sand, with the assistance of Cap-
tain Welstead, and the boats of the General Harris, throwing overboard part of the
cargo, guns, &c. After getting clear of the sand, and warping out into 15 fathoms
water, Parcelar Hill bore N. 60° E.
About S.W. from Parcelar Hill, and 5 leagues distant from the nearest part of the
land, H. M. S. Albion, in 1804, got into 6 fathoms upon one of the northern patches,
which is probably the nearest to the land in that part. The >'ansittart, August 15th,
1815, steering S. E. ^ E., at 3 a.m. grounded in 3f fathoms, and had 7 fathoms under
the stern ; hove the sails aback, and floated off, then anchored ; but a squall coming
from southward, she cut her cable, steered West about 3 miles, and anchored at 4^ a.m.
in lOi fathoms, with Parcelar Hill, at daylight, bearing N. 21i° E., and the low land
about' Parcelar Point N. 51° E.
The eastern part of the South Sands, bearing between S. by E. ^ E. ami S. by W. ,\ ^^■.
from Parcelar Point, is very dangerous. Several ships have grounded upon the
patches of which it is formed, and \\ere nearly lost ; as the easternmost of these
patches lie nearly opposite Bambek Shoal, the channel between them is much con-
2 I 2
Extracts from
the journals of
the Sarah,
Henr)- Adding-
ton, and other
ships.
Dangers on llie
eastern part.
244
MALACCA STRAIT. SOUTH SANDS.
Extracts from
the journals of
the Lord Ma-
cartney, Bes-
lioroiigh, and
Trident.
Shoal banks
and dangers on
the South
Sands.
tracted, and more dangerous here than in any other part of the strait from Parcelar
Hill to the Carimons.
On this extremity of the South Sands, the patch nearest to the land is distant 12 or
1 1^ miles from the coast about 5 miles eastward of Parcelar J*oint, and consists of
small pyramids of hard sand, with only 1| and 1^ to 2 fathoms water upon them. The
Hornby tacked in 9 fathoms close to one of the patches with Parcelar Hill N. by W.,
and Cape Rachado, appearing like an island, E. ^S ; the boat, on examining it, found
only li fathoms water.*
The Lord Macartney, aground on one of these patches in 9 feet at low water, had
Parcelar Hill bearing N. by W. and Cape Rachado E. 5^ S. ; this seems to have been
the patch last mentioned. Prior to grounding she must have been some time on
the South Sands, for she steered E. N. E. 4 miles in 18 to 13 fathoms, next
cast 5 fathoms, and then grounded. She lay on the sand from the 21st to the 29th
of August, 1792, and was nearly lost, having been obliged to discharge much of the
cargo, into two vessels sent to her assistance from Malacca.
The Besborough, aground, had Parcelar Hill N. f W., and Cape Rachado E. i S.
about 6^ leagues ; the Lascelles in company, at the same time, at anchor in 8 fathoms,
bore from the Besborough S. by W. about half a mile. When the Besborough floated,
they steered between E. S. E. and S. S. E., in irregular soundings from 8 to 17 fathoms,
hard ground. The Indus, of Bombay, and other ships, also grounded, and were nearly
lost upon these dangerous pyramids, w hich form the eastern extremity of the South
Sands.
About 5 miles farther S. Eastward, H. M. S. Trident had 5 fathoms on another
patch of the eastern part of these sands, with Parcelar Hill N. by W. ^ W., and Cape
Rachado E. by N. ; she hauled to the eastward and deepened gradually.
The following banks or patches of the South Sands, contiguous to the common
channel, and consequently most in the way of ships, were examined by Captain Ross,
the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1819.
In lat. 2° 41^' N., a patch with 3 and 3|^ fathoms, sand, nearly a mile in extent,
bearing from Parcelar Hill W. S.W. ^ S., distant 16 miles from Loomat Point, the
nearest land, and S. by E. ^ E. from the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank about 12 miles.
A small patch of 4 fathoms, about 1^ miles to the N. E. of the above-mentioned 3
fathoms patch.
In lat. 2° 40' N., a sand-bank, extending N.W. and S. E. nearly 3 miles, having
depths of 3 to 1^ fathoms on its centre, which bears from Parcelar Hill S.W. by W.,
and 14J miles distant from Loomat Point, which is the nearest land.
In la't. 2° 36^' N., a sand-bank, extending about N. E. and S.W. 2 miles, and 1 mile
in breadth, with soundings on it from 2 to 3^ fathoms, and bearing from Parcelar Hill
S.W. ^ S., nearly equidistant from Loomat Point and Parcelar Point, about 14 miles.
About 2J or 3 miles west from the last-mentioned bank, is situated a small bank, with
depths of 2 to 4 fathoms on it.
In lat. 2° 30' N., the centre of a sand-bank, extending W. N.W. and E. S. E. 3 or 3^
miles, with depths on it, from 2 to 2^ and 3 fathoms, bearing from Parcelar Hill
S. by VV., distant l.'H miles from Parcelar Point, the nearest and opposite land.
In lat. 2° 27', and about 5 miles to the S. E. of the centre of the above, is the centre
* The H. C. S. Duke of Sussex, in August, 1831, tacked near a shoal patch, on which her boat found 5^
and 4 fathoms ; the bearings taken just before tacking were Parcelar Hill N. 19° W., Cape Rachado S. 88^ E. ;
this shews that the shoal ground extends farther to the eastward than has been usually marked in the charts.
(See Naut. Mag. for 1833, p. 3.)
MALACCA STRAIT.— EAST-AND-WEST CHANNEL. 245
of a narrow sand spit, which extends 3 miles N.W. by N. and S. E. by S., having on it
only 4 and ^ fathom water.
In lat. 2° 25' N., a small sandy patch, with 4 fathoms water on it, bearing West from
Cape Rachado, S. by E. from Parcelar Hill, and South from Parcelar Point.
In lat. 2° 28' N., and about 3 miles N. by E. from the above small sandy patch, lies
the easternmost dangerous patch of the South Sands, extending about a mile N.X.VV.
and S. S. E., having only 1^ fathoms water over the hard sandy bottom, and bearing
about W. I N. from Cape Kachado, distant 7 leagues from Parcelar Hill S. by E. ^ E.,
from Parcelar Point S. ^ E. distant 13^ miles, from Bambek Shoal W.S.W. ^ S.
10 or 11 miles, and from the nearest land to the eastward of Parcelar Point distant
12 miles.
TO SAIL through the EAST-AND-WEST CHANNEL, between the sands, East-and.we.t
with a strong and steady S.W. wind, give the western edge of the North Sands a berth, channel.
by keeping about mid-channel betwixt it and the Arroas, until the Round Arroa is
brought to bear about W. S.W. ; then steer more easterly, sinking it from the deck when
it bears about W. f S., or W. | S.
With the wind light or variable, between North and S. E., steer from Pulo Jarra or
the Sambilangs, for the western verge of the North Sands, and keep along it in 18 or
20 fathoms, borrowing to 12 or 14 fathoms occasionally, and edging off to 20, 24, or
26 fatlioms, as circumstances require. When the Round Arroa is discernible bearing
about S. S.W., the Long Arroa will be seen about S.W., and the former ought then to
be kept in sight from the quarter-deck of a large ship, or from tiie poop of a small one,
in soundings from 1(J to 20 fathoms; for there is no danger on the edge of the North
Sands, if the Round Arroa can be seen from the quarter-deck. After the Arroa is
brought to bear W. S.W., steer an easterly course, as the wind and tide require, to sink
it from the deck, bearing W. f S., and 14 or 15 fathoms will be the least water. When
the Round Arroa is no longer visible, bring Parcelar Hill to bear East, and draw it to
E. 5° N., or E. G° N., by the time the low land of Pulo Callam is appearing from the
deck, being then abreast of the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank. With Parcelar Hill
E. 3° S., you will get upon this bank : the hill E. 2° S. will just clear it, and you may
probably cross over the tail or spit in 7 or 8 fathoms, with Parcelar Hill E. I'' S., or
E. 2° S. ; but the hill should not be brought to the southward of East when passing
this bank, as all compasses are more or less uncertain. From the bank, a spit extends
to the southward a considerable way into the cliannel, with a gradual increase of depth
upon it proportionate to the distance from the bank; with Parcelar Hill E. 2^N., you
will carry 11 or 12 fathoms in crossing the spit, and with the hill E. ^ N. you will
pass clear to the southward of it in 17 or 20 fathoms.
This spit is sometimes called tlie Eastern Bank, it being nearer the low land of Par-
celar than any other bank in the East-and-West Channel ; for there are several spots
; of 10, 11, or 12 fathoms farther to tlie westward, exclusive of the sljoal patches already
: mentioned ; these lie on the soutii side of the channel betwixt the Round Arroa and
South Sand Head. The depths in the fair track are usually from 15 to 20 fathoms,
and in tlie western part of the channel they are suliject to the least irregularity in tlie
vicinity of the North Sands; but in the eastern part of it, opposite the Two-and-
I Half Fathoms Bank, they are liable to the least irregularity in tlie neighbourhood of
the South Simds, and generally here the depths are from 20 to 23 fathouis.
When the tide runs strong in the; springs, eddies are perceived upon the spit that
projects from tlie Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, indicating its proximity. Between
I
1
I
24G MALACCA STRAIT. — PARCELAR HILL.
the Sand Heads, the strength of the ebb sets nearly N.W., but the first and latter
parts of it run very irregularly. The flood is more regular in its direction, and runs
with less velocity, but is liable to vary, which renders passing the Two-and-Half
Fathoms Bank dangerous in the night, unless a shi[) is near it before dark, and her
situation is well determined ; or unless the night is so clear that Parcelar Hill can be
distinctly seen and its bearing taken.
Parcelar Hill is obscured at times during the day by clouds, when the low land of
Pulo Callam, or that to the westward of the strait, may be visible from the Two-and-
Half Fathoms Bank ; if so, the body of this piece of lotv land kept N. E. by E. i E.,
or the east end of the same E. N. E., are good bearings to pass clear of the bank, and in
coming from the eastward, if it is sunk from the quarter-deck of a large ship with
these bearings, she will be clear to the westward of that danger.
In proceeding through the channel, when the Round Arroa is sunk from the deck,
and Parcelar Hill bearing E. 8° N., a ship will be near shoal water on the extremity
of the South Sands; with the hill E. 7° N., she will pass over some of the small
patches of 5 or 6 fathoms, sand, having 16 or 17 fathoms around them. And when
the Round Arroa is just disappearing, with Parcelar Hill bearing E. ^ S., she will be
near the edge of the North Sands. Tiie hill bearing East when in the western part of
the channel, to E. 6° N. when the low land is seen from the deck, are safe bearings to
work with, throughout the middle and eastern parts of the channel, if the compass be
true ; and 13 fathoms is a good depth to tack in ft'om either side, when passing
between the Sand Heads.
When abreast the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, or in crossing the spit that pro-
jects from it, the low land of Callam is plainly seen from the quarter-deck of a large
ship ; and from the poop the tops of the trees may be discerned, stretching from Pulo
Callam almost to Parcelar Hill. When the low land to the southward of the hill
begins to appear, the channel becomes wide, being then past the Two-and-Half
Fathoms Bank and South Sand Head ; the iiill may then be brought from East to
E. by N. J N., in working towards the land of Parcelar ; and if Pulo Callam is kept
plainly in sight from the deck, a ship will not be too close to the South Sands.
Parcelar Hill. PARCELAR HILL, in lat. 2° 51' N., Ion. 101° 25^' E.,* bearing E. 4° N. {true)
from the Round Arroa, distant 48 miles, and 50 or 51 miles West from Malacca by
chronometers, is of oblong form, sloping at each end when viewed from tiie westward,
with the summit a little to the westward of its centre ; but if not too far distant, of a
regular pyramidal form of small elevation, when seen from the southward or S. S.
Eastward ; its declivity being very gentle towards each extremity. It is easily distin-
guished, being much nearer the sea, and having a darker shade than the other hills
inland. From the N. Western extremity of the North Sands, its summit is just dis-
cernible from the poop or mizen shrouds of a large ship, bearing E. by S. ^ S. or
E. S. E., and the highest part is generally set in taking the bearings of the hill, when
passing through the East-and-West Channel. Directly fronting the hill, there is the
mouth of a river.
Directions. After passing the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, and having the trees to the S. E.
of Parcelar Hill visible from the deck in steering eastward for the hill, the water will
soon deepen to 22 and 24 fathoms, soft ground ; it will shoal again to 18 or 19
fathoms, when the land is approached within 6 miles, which distance from the coast
' * Captain Ross made it in lat. 2° 50J' N., Ion. lOP 24|' E.
MALACCA STRAIT. — CALLAM STRAIT. 247
should be preserved in proceeding towards Cape Rachado. With a working wind, do
not stand off above 3^ leagues from the land about Parcelar, nor approach the South
Sands nearer than 27 fathoms, for the depths contiguous to them hereabout are not so
great as to the southward of Parcelar Point, where deep water indicates the proximity
of danger on the eastern part of the sands.
FROM THE SAMBILANGS TO SALANGORE, AND THROUGH THE STRAIT
OF CALLAM.
When bound to SALANGORE, or when proceeding through the Strait of Callara, From the Sam-
steer to the eastward after rounding the Sambilangs, until tiie coast is approached, saSoJe.
which, from thence to Salangore, is low and level fronting the sea, and covered with
trees. With a northerly or easterly wind, coast along in sight of the low land, keeping
about 2, 3, or 4 leagues off, as circumstances require, observing not to raise the beach
from the deck, nor borrow under 8 or 9 fathoms.
CAPE CARAN, or TANJONG AW AT, called also Mud Point, about 3 leagues ca,.e caran,
N. Westward of Salangore, is encompassed by a shoal bank, wliicii ought not to be "^J^"^""^
approached under 5^ or 6 fathoms. About 5 miles W. N. W. from Cape Caran, and
3 or 4 miles offshore, there is a bank of sand and broken shells, of considerable extent,
having only 3^ fathoms on its shoalest parts. On its edge, and between it and the
shore, the depths are 5 and 6 fathoms ; and as they decrease the bottom becomes hard.
After the Sambilangs disappear, Salangore Hill may be seen from the deck bearing
S. E. by E. or S. E. by E. ^ E., when in 10 or 11 fathoms, green ooze ; a ship ought
then to keep the white sandy beach sunk from the poop, in steering along the coast to
the S. Eastward ; this will carry her outside the shoal, in soundings of not less than
8 or 9 fathoms. When Cape Caran bears nearly East, or when the low land is visible
beyond it, the beach may be raised with safety; but a berth of 1^ or 2 miles ought to
be given this point, for, until past it, the water shoals suddenly from 6 or 7 fathoms, in
standing towards the shore. After passing Cape Caran, the lead is a sufficient guide,
in steering eastward for Salangore Road, as the water shoals gradually on the edge of
the mud bank that lines the shore.
SALANGORE HILL and FORT, in lat. 3° 20' N., Ion. 101° 17' E., is on the saiangore.
south side the entrance of the river; and as the water is shoal to the soutliward, the
best anchorage is abreast the river, in any depth at discretion from 4 to (i or 7 fathoms,
with Cape Caran bearing N.W., and the two Pulo Anzas S. by E. or S. by E. ^ E.,
about 3 leagues distant. The river is navigable at high water for vessels of consider-
able burthen, and there is no danger at the entrance, the bottom being soft mud. It
is high water in the road about 5 hours on full and change of moon. Tiiis place was
formerly frequented for tin and other articles of trade, wliich are now carried to
Penang in the coasting proas. The Rajahs of Salangore, although not always deserv-
ing of confidence, have seldom been hostile to Europeans ; but vessels at anchor in the
road ought to be always on their guard, never allowing any proas to approacli them a caution,
during the nigiit; for here, as well as in several other parts of Malacca Strait, piratical
proas frequently lurk about in search of defenceless vessels, or to assault those who are
not watchful.
CALLAM, or COLONG STRAIT, is formed by PuloCallam and its contiguous Caiiam strait.
248
MALACCA SrilAir. — CALLAM STRAIT.
Mudancoos
Islanrts.
Hotel Ishiiids.
Directions.
islands on the west side, and on the east side by the main land and Pnlo Looniat :
the latter is a large island to the northward of Parcelar Hill, separated from the main
by a narrow strait, called the False Strait, in which are from .3| to 9 fathoms water.
The south entrance of this strait is the first opening to the westward of Parcelar Hill ;
and its northern entrance, called Callam River, or Black River, unites with Callam
Strait, opposite to Deep Water Point. The north entrance of Callam Strait bears
about S. E. by S. from Salangore Road, distant leagues, and Parcelar Hill bears
from it about S. S. E. ^ E.
The two islands, called Mudancoos, or Pulo Anzas, lie upon the eastern verge of a
shoal adjoining to the inner part of the North Sands ; they are steep to, and, with the
edge of the contiguous sand, form the west side of the channel leading to Callam
Strait. Opposite Pulo Anzas, and bearing about S. E. by S. from Salangore Road,
are the Botel Islands ; they lie on the bank that bounds the east side of the channel,
distant from 1 to 3 miles from the shore. These islets or rocks must not be ap-
proached nearer than ]|- or 2 miles, for the reef projects about a mile outside of them,
and there is also a reef extending two miles to the southward from the inner islets of
the group ; and one mile or more S.W. ^ S. from the southernmost or outer Botel
Island, there is a dangerous rock, called the Calcutta Rock, having close to it
5 fathoms water.* To give a berth to these, it is proper on leaving Salangore Road
with the flood tide, to steer about S. by E. for Pulo Anzas, because the tide sets S. E.
to S. E. by S.
From the extremity of Botel Islands outer reef, called sometimes Sail Shoal, Pulo
Anzas bears W. by S. about 3 miles : the channel betwixt them is safe, having from
5^ or 6 fathoms, mud, on the east side, to 9 and 10 fathoms within a mile of Pulo
Anzas, and from thence to the entrance of Callam Strait the depths are mostly from
6 to 8 fathoms in the fair channel.
Having steered from Salangore Road, according as the tide may require to pass
nearer to Pulo Anzas than to the Botel Islands, a course from thence about S. E. by
S. will lead directly to the Strait of Callam. In working, tack in 8 fathoms towards
the edge of the North Sands, when near Pulo Anzas ; and approach no nearer to the
Botel Islands than 5^ or 6 fathoms, giving them a berth of li or 2 miles, observing to
keep in soft bottom. When a little to the southward of Pulo Anzas, the channel may
be traversed occasionally to 5 fathoms on either side, regular soundings, the bottom
soft mud ; but in standing to the southward, do not bring Pulo Anzas to the north-
ward of N.W., for the entrance of the strait bears S. E. from these islands, and there
is a shoal in a direct line between them and the west point of the entrance: the edge
of the North Sands, bounding that side of the channel, lies nearly in the same direc-
tion ; by bringing Pulo Anzas nothing to the northward of N.W., all danger on the
west side the channel is avoided.
Northward a little from the entrance of the strait there is a shoal, which is avoided
by keeping the Middle Botel Island on with Salangore Hill, taking care not to open
the hill to the westward, which is also a mark for the fair channel. Another mark is,
to keep Parcelar Hill about its own length on with the west point of the entrance;
either side may be safely approached when inside the north point (called Green Point)
* The Calcutta brig was lost on this rock in 1799. In a manuscript chart, by Mr. Kitson, there is a rock
laid down on which the Bornholm was lost, with Salangore Hill bearing N. 2° E., the northernmost Pulo Anzas
W. by N., and the southernmost Botel Island about N. E. J N. : thereare 7 fathoms marked betwixt this rock
and the edge of the eastern bank ; therefore, to avoid it, borrow towards Pulo Anzas into 8 or 9 fathoms
in passing them.
it and over the
bar.
MALACCA STRAIT. — CALLAM STRAIT. 249
of Callam Island, both sides being steep to, and clear of danger, but the bank extends
to the northward of Green Point nearly half a mile.
FIRST, or NORTH REACH, extending nearly S. S. E. i E. about 5 miles, and First Reach.
1^ miles in breadth, is clear of danger, having 6 and 5 fathoms water very close to the
shore on either side, and from 8 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel. The bhifl' point ter-
minating this reach on the western side is the east point of Callam Island, and is
called Deep Water Point, because the water deepens off it to 18, 20, and 22 fathoms ;
it is steep to, and should be approached within a small distance, to avoid the indraught
of the river opposite.
SECOND, or BAR REACH, extends from Deep Water Point about S.W., and second Reach,
after rounding that point, the deepest water is found towards the eastern shore: wlien
the Second Reach is entered, an opening to seaward is perceived at the south part of
it, which, however, admits of no passage, being entirely tilled with sand-banks, dry at
low water. A little to the westward of Deep Water Point there is a small creek ;
and on the eastern shore another, called Bar Creek, bearing about S. E. by S. from the
former. After rounding Deep Water Point, the depths decrease fast to (J or 7 fathoms To sail throuph
in steering over for Bar Creek, and about a third of the channel distant from the ^ '"
eastern shore, is a proper track, to prevent being horsed by the flood too close upon
that side. If unacquainted, anchor in G fathoms a little short of the bar, to sound and
examine it before crossing, as the sands are liable to shift ; two boats should be placed
on it, to point out the best track. To the S.W. of Bar Creek there is another creek,
and the bar begins at the former, stretching from thence across the strait. Between
the creeks the water is very shoal, within half a cable's length of the eastern shore ;
but about one-third of the channel over from it, the deepest water, w hich is not more
than 2f or .3 fathoms, is generally found on the bar at low water, and 4^ or 4| fathoms
at high water, spring tides.
The best mark for crossing the bar, is to keep the bluff of Deep Water Point N.E. | E.,
or N. E. I E., on with the middle of a small hill, having a clump of trees upon it, which
is the northernmost of /ok;- small hills: when the Bar Creek is fairly open, bearing
E. by S. 1 S. or E. S. E., you will be on the top of the bar, which is about a cable's
length across. If at anchor to the northward of the bar, the best time to weigh is
about 2^ hours flood, which will give time sufficient to kedge or warp over it before
high water, sho<dd circumstances render that necessary. The flood runs through the
middle of the strait until it is nearly half-ebb on the shore, and this is generally the case
in most parts of Malacca Strait.
After passing the bar, the water will deepen gradually to 5 fathoms abreast the
i second creek, and the least water w ill be 5^ or fathoms, in steering from tiieuce
I rather more than a cable's length off the eastern shore. The western shore nuist be
j avoided until the Third Reach is entered, for it is fronted by a shoal of hard ground,
, stretching from the large opening to seaward a considerable way into the strait.
There is a creek on the eastern shore, bearing about E. ^ S. from the south point of
the opening to seaward, having on its south side, about a cable's length from the en-
; trance, and nearly the same distance inland, some wells of frt sh w ater, which can only
i be procured by carrying it in buckets to the boats. The point on the north side the
j entrance of this creek is called Ann (Jrab Point, from a grab of that name having been
1 wrecked on tlie flat that projects a little way ofl'it; this point ouglit therefore to have
; a berth of 1^ or 1^ cable's length in passing. A Portuguese ship was lost farther to
VOL. II. 2 K
250 MALACCA STRAIT. — PARCELAR POINT TO CAPE RACHADO.
the northward ; and in 1800, the ship Strathspey got aground, was attacked and cap-
tured by the Malay Pirates, and carried to Salangore.*
Third Reach. THIRD, or SOUTH REACH, extends S.W. by S. and S.W., about 2 leagues
or more ; having entered it a little way, you may approach either side in work-
ing, to any distance, for both shores are steep to : the water will deepen from 8 or 9
to 12 and 14 fathoms, as the southern entrance of the strait is approached, and will
shoal again gradually to 5^ or (J fathoms ; there will be no less water, if the point on
the S. E. side be not borrowed upon too closely : this point is fronted by a projecting
flat. The best track is to steer out in mid-channel between the points which form the
entrance, or rather nearest the western shore; then S. S.W. to South, according to the
tide, until the water deepens to 10 or 12 fathoms ; and after edging away about S. S. E.,
and deepening to 15 or 16 fathoms, a S. E. course may be steered along the coast for
Cape Rachado, keeping from 4 to 8 miles off the land.
To enter cai- TO ENTER CALLAM STRAIT from the southward, having brought Parcelar
thes^uthwlixiT ^'^' ^° ^^^^^ about East, the entrance, of Loomat Strait, called also False Strait, will
be discerned ; to the N. Westward of which, about 3 miles distant, lies the mouth of
Callam Strait. Caution is requisite in steering for the entrance of the strait, as the ebb
tide is likely to carry you towards the sand-banks which project a great way to the
westward of the western entrance point, and are nearly dry in some places at low water,
2 or 3 miles distant from that point ; steer therefore for the point on the east side the
entrance, and when near it keep in mid-channel, sailing into the mouth of the strait:
the best time to enter it is about high water. After the shoal fronting the east point
is rounded, continue to keep nearer to the eastern shore than mid-channel, to prevent
being horsed by the ebb into the opening to the northward, a little inside of the strait
on the west side, which is barred up with sands. Having passed, and shut in this
opening, the preceding directions for sailing to the southward may be attended to, in
proceeding through the strait to the N. E. and northward.
FROM PARCELAR HILL TO CAPE RACHADO, AND THENCE TO MALACCA.
Channel be- THE DANGERS contiguous to the channel betwixt Parcelar Hill and Cape Ra-
tween Parcelar chado render the navigation of this part of the strait rather difficult in the night to
Hill and Cape -i,-! i-i-- i • i i. c
Rachado. persous unacquauitcd, tor the soundings bemg m some places irregular, are not a sui-
ficient guide ; the dangers on each side, must therefore be described, prior to giving
directions for sailing through the channel.
Coast and From the point on the east side the entrance of Loomat Strait, the land takes an
thrt^ui"*'"^ easterly direction towards Parcelar Hill, then turns gradually round S. Easterly to
Parcelar Point, which is S. S. E. 10 or 11 miles distant from the hill. A bight or
concavity fronting Parcelar Hill is thereby formed betwixt these points, occupied by
a shoal steep bank stretching from point to point : this bank is composed of fine, hard,
black sand, like steel filings, and ought to be approached with great caution, being
steep to. At a considerable distance outside of it 17 and 18 fathoms are found in some
* This strait was Jbrmerltj much used b)' ships of moderate size, but it ought not noiv to be recommended,
for it has of late years been often infested by piratical proas, which lurk in the creeks, ready to surprise small
vessels, or ships which have the misfortune to jjet aground. The preference ought certainly to be given to the
channel between the Arroas and Parcelar Hill ; for although the passage by it may sometimes be less speedy
than that through the Strait of Callam, this is of little consequence, when compared with its greater safety.
MALACCA STRAIT. — PARCELAR POINT TO CAPE RACHADO. 251
places, and also 16 or 17 fathoms close to its outer edge, from whence the water shoals
suddenly to 3 and 2| fathoms.
The Anna, in June, 1803, standinj^ in towards Parcelar Hill with the wind at S. E.,
had several casts of 17 fathoms, with the large lead kept going; next cast she had 5
fathoms, and although the helm was instantly put down, the ship grounded in stays,
being then high water. In the night, she had only VI feet at low water, and IB feet
at high water; but on the following day, the tide rose to 21 feet before high water,
she was hove off the bank by the stream anchor, previously carried out with a whole
cable. When aground, the centre of Parcelar Hill bore N. 31° E., northern extreme
of the land N. 51° W., and Parcelar Point, or the southern extreme, S. 49° E., offshore
about 2^ miles.*
Tiie tides were then at a medium between springs and neaps, and flowed only 6 feet Tides.
perpendicularly in the night, but had flowed to 9 feet a considerable time before high
water during the day ; it therefore appears, that here, as on tiie coasts of Sinde, Gu-
zarat, Concan, and other parts to the northward of the e([uator, the principal or high-
est tides are in the day, during the S.W. monsoon, when the sun is near the northern
tropic ; and the highest tides at these places happen in tiie night during the N. E. mon-
soon, when the sun is in the southern hemisphere. The perpendicular rise and fall of
the tides on the s-ands, and betwixt Pulo Callam and Cape Kachado, is from 11 to 14
or 15 feet on high springs, and their velocity is then about 2 to 2^ miles per hour, be-
tween Parcelar Hill and the cape; high water at 5^ to 6 hours in the offing, at full
and change of moon. The tides set fair through the channel, the flood about S. E. by E.
and the ebb N.W. by W., but near the South Sands the ebb sets about N.W. : close
to Cape Rachado, the tides are strongest, and run with eddies during the springs ; and
upon the South Sands, Captain Ross could not observe any slack water, as the tides
appeared to veer all round the compass.
PARCELAR POINT, in lat. 2° 42' N., being round, and similar to the adjacent Parcelar Point,
low coast, is not easily distinguished ; but a little eastward from it there is a white
breach or patch on the shore, which may be discerned when the point is bearing to
the northward, and the obsei'ver not too far distant from the land.f This point may
be approached occasionally within 2 miles, for the bank that occupies the bight abreast
of Parcelar Hill converges towards tlie shore near the point, having 20 fathoms water
a little way from its edge. Although Captain Ross could not perceive any dangers
between Parcelar Point and Bambek Shoal, lying 10 or 12 miles to the S. E., except-
ing the shoal bank that lines the shore to the distance of about a mile in some places;
yet, several ships have grounded not far to the eastward of Parcelar Point, probably on
the edge of the shore bank.
The Shore Bank, or Shoal Spits, not far eastward from Parcelar Point, have 20 and
21 fathoms near the outer edge; but in some parts regular soundings from 12 to 9
or 8 fathoms, may be found oh the outer edge of the Shore Bank ; although the sound-
• Thi-i part of tlie coast, frontinjj Parcelar Hill, liaving in the old charts been reiiresented cuuvc.t instead of
concave, towards the sea, with jjootl soundings close to the shore, many n.ivigators have thereby been led into
error, and have run their ships aground on the Siiore Bank. The Mysore grounded on it in ISO'2. and was
with some difficulty hove off, after tiirowing her lumber, some guns, &c , overboard. \\\\h Parcelar Hill N. i W.
the Gunjavar's helm was jjut down in 11 fathoms, and she grounded in stays. The Hampshire, of Bombay, a
Portuguese ship belonging to Macao, and several other ships, h:;ve also grounded upon this bank.
f There is also a white patch, about 5 miles more to the eastward, and another near the extreme of a point
about 3 leagues N. N. Westward from Cape Rachado, with a small island to the \.\\'estward of it, and others
lo the S. Eastward.
2 K 2
252 AIALACCA STRAIT. — BAMBEK SHOAL.
ings, in general, are not a safe guide in standing near any of these banks. Wiien within
3 or 3.] leagues of Cape Rachado, or a little nearer to it than to Parcelar Point, you
are clear to the southward of Bambek Shoal, which is the principal danger in the ex-
tensive bight between them, and bounds the east side of the channel.
Extracts from Not far to the soutliward of Parcelar Point, the Sarah, aground in 2^- fathoms, had
thesTrab"''"^ 10 fathoms on the opposite side of the ship, with Parcelar Hill bearing N. 30° W.
ounjavar! and The Guujavar, after rounding Cape Rachado with a westerly wind, lay up N. N.W.
other ships. j^^ soundiugs fVom 20 to 13 fathoms, and got between Bambek Shoal and the shore.
She tacked in 15 fathoms, steered West 2 miles close hauled, in 9 to 15 fathoms, soft,
then 12 fathoms, hard ground ; next cast 4 fathoms, and grounded on the inner edge of
the shoal. Cape Rachado bearing S.E. ^ E. 4J or 5 leagues, Parcelar Point, the north-
ern extreme of the land, N.W. by W., off shore 3 or 4 miles. The kedge anchor was
laid out; she was then hove off, and anchored in 8 fathoms, as night was approaching;
next morning she weighed, and stood to the south-eastward and southward, round the
eastern extremity of the shoal.
The Portuguese ship Carmo. aground in 11 feet water, had Cape Rachado bearing
S. E. I E., and Parcelar Hill about N.W. ^ N.
The ship La Paix, bound from China to Bengal, was wrecked on Bambek Shoal,
November 28th, 1805. At 5 p.m. she tacked in 19 fathoms, and after running 2 miles
S.W. by W., struck, and grounded on the shoal in 2^ fathoms. Cape Rachado bearing
S.E. by E., Parcelar Point N.W. by W., the Hill N.'41° W., oflp shore 4 miles. Found
on sounding all round that they were encompassed by rocks and shoals, and having
only 10 feet, rocky bottom, under the bow, she soon bilged with the swell, and was
totally lost. Other ships have been wrecked on this shoal, proving the danger of
borrowing towards it ; but it will be avoided, by not bringing Cape Rachado to the
southward of S. 60° E., nor Parcelar Point to the westward of N. 43° W. The Caro-
line, bound from Bengal to Canton River, in 1816, was wrecked on Bambek Shoal,
with Cape Rachado bearing E. 35° S., Parcelar Point W. 36° N., and Parcelar Hill
W. 43° N.
BAMBEK SHOAL (the centre) lies in lat. 2° 33|^' N., distant 14 miles from
Parcelar Point, the same from Cape Rachado, and in a transit line between these
points, off shore 3 or 3^ miles, having irregular soundings from 6 to 20 and 26 fathoms
between it and the main. This shoal extends W. N.W. and E. S. E. nearly 2 miles,
and is rocky and dangerous, having only H to 2 and 2| fathoms water over he rocks,
deepening to 7 or 8 fathoms, hard ground, at each of the two extremities, where it
extends about half a mile farther than the dangerous part mentioned above. Near
this shoal, on the outside, the depths are from 10 or 12 to 17 or 19 fathoms, ir-
regular ; consequently, the soundings do not afford a safe guide in the approach to this
danger.
About 3 miles East from the centre of Rambek Shoal is the N.W. extremity of a
long spit, which extends nearly to Cape Rachado, fronting tjie shore at from l^to2j
or 3 miles' distance. It has only 2, H, and half a fathom on it in some places, and 6 or
8 fathoms on other parts near Pulo Arram, with 8 and 10 or 12 fathoms inside, close
to Cape Racliado, and also close to the shore, about H miles within the Cape. The
depths near this long narrow spit on the outside are usually 10, 11, or 12 fathoms,
increasing to 20 fathoms or upwards, at 2 or 2h miles' distance.
This part of the channel betwixt Bambek Shoal and the easternmost patches of the
South Sands requires great care by ships passing through it in the night, as the sound-
MALACCA STRAIT. — CAPE RACHADO.
2o3
ings are not a sufficient guide, although the water generally deepens to 35, 38, or 40
fathoms, when within a few miles of these easternmost patches, and shoals again to
30 or 25 fathoms near their edges, or in some places to 20 and 17 fathoms ; but there
are 30 and 31 fathoms within a mile of the easternmost patch, on the IN. and N. E.
sides, which patch forms the projecting extremity of these sands, bounding the channel
to the South and westward, and it ought never to be approached by any ship, being
steep to, and very dangerous.
The tides run strong and are very irregular among and contiguous to the South
Sands, apparently setting all round the compass, without any perceptible slack water
on the springs.
CAPE RACHADO, or TANJONG TUAN, in lat. 2° 26' N.,* Ion. 101° 51' E., Cape Rachado.
or 24 miles West from Malacca by chronometer, and bearing from Parcelar Point
S. E. by E. about 27 miles, is a steep bluff headland, covered with trees, discernible at
the distance of 7 leagues ; it is just visible from the poop of a large ship, when she is
a little to the southward of Parcelar Point. When first seen, in coming from west-
ward, it appears like an island ; the adjacent coast, and the neck of land that joins it
to the cape, being much lower than the cape itself, are not so soon perceived ; and tlie
whole of the coast that forms the bight between Parcelar Point and Cape Ra-
chado has a similar aspect, rather low and woody, with some small rivers. There is
an islet or rock close to the cape, and a bay on each side, that to the N.W. being the
largest, in which Pulo Arram and another small island lie near the shore, Pulo Arram
being that nearest to the cape ; but the coast which forms this bay should not be ap-
proached nearer than 3 or 4 miles, on account of the long spit that fronts it, already
described. At 2 miles' distance from the cape, the depths are from 10 to 24 and 28
fathoms ; and about 3 or 4 miles off it, from 15 to 22 fathoms, irregular at times : from
this position, the low woody coast of Sumatra may be seen from the deck, the strait
being here more contracted than in any other part to the northward of Malacca.
HAVING proceeded through the EAST-AND-WEST CHANNEL, or through
Callam Strait, do not in working stand above 3^, or at most 4 leagues off the land ;
nor above 3 leagues off it, when Parcelar Hill bears between N. and N. N.W. You
may borrow occasionally, within H or 2 miles of the land to the westward of Parcelar
Hill, or tack in 13 fathoms when the hill bears between E. by S. and E. by N. ; but
the shoal that stretches along the concavity of the land abreast of Parcelar Hill pro-
jects about 2 J miles to seaward, and being steep to, on the outer edge, should not be
approached under 17 fathoms. Close to its outer edge, the depths are Iti and 17
fathoms, and nearly the same depths, 17, 18, and 19 fathoms, are found at a consider-
able distance outside of it in some places. About 3 or 4 miles outside the edge of the
Shore Bank there is a long, narroiv bank in the fair channel, with 13, 14, and 15
fathoms water on it, which might in the night be mistaken for the edge of tlie former.
The north end of this narrow bank bears about W. by S. from Parcelar Hill, and it
extends parallel to the coast till nearly abreast of Parcelar Point ; with the iiill bear-
ing from E. by N. to N. N. E., the deptlis on it are 13 to l(i fathouis, and on its
southern part, 18 to 21 fathoms. The soundings inside this bank are mostly 19 and 20
fathoms near it, shoaling to 17 fathoms close to the edge of the Shore Bank, but not
always regular : for around Parcelar Point there are 20 and 21 fathoms very near the
Shore Bank, the same depth on the soutiiern extremity of tlie Channel Bank, 20 to 24
* Captain Ross places it in lat. 2^ 25' N., Ion. 101° 50^' E.
Passage from
Parcelar Hill
to Cape Uii-
cliado.
254 MALACCA STRAIT. — PASSAGE FROM PARCELAR POINT TO MALACCA.
fathoms between them, and 26 to 30 fathoms off the south end of the Channel Bank,
about 3 01-4 miles to the S. S.W. of Parcelar Point.
To avoid all the dangers fronting the shore, betwixt Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado,
do not come within a direct line joining the two extremes of the land, in passing the
bight ofl' Parcelar Hill; nor bring Parcelar Point, the southern extreme of the land,
to the southward of S. 60° E., to keep clear of the edge of the Shoal Bank in front of
the bight to the N. Westward of that point. Do not approach Parcelar Point nearer
than 2 miles, or rather give it a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing. When Cape Rachado
is seen, keep to the eastward of S. E. by E. ^ E., and do not bring Parcelar Point, the
north extreme, to the westward of N.W. by W. in passing the extensive bight between
them ; for these bearings will not lead you far outside of Bambek Shoal.
Cape Rachado E. S. E. is a fair mid-ciiannel bearing throughout ; when working,
it may be brought to S. E. by E. ^ E., S. E. by E. ^ E., in standing towards the shoals
in the bight ; and to E. by S. ^ S., in standing towards the patches or pyramids on the
eastern part of the South Sands ; but as the channel betwixt these and Bambek Shoal
is only about 3 leagues wide, it would be dangerous, in traversing, to exceed those
bearings of the cape, when it appears like an island. When it is approached within
3^ or 4 leagues, and the low neck of land that joins it to the coast is seen considerably
elevated from the deck, the channel becomes wider, and may then, ocasionaUy, be tra-
versed with the cape bearing from S. E. by E. to E. \ S.
From abreast of Parcelar Point, in the night, at 4 or 5 miles' distance, steer S. E.
by E. for Cape Rachado, which is the course from point to point : the soundings in
the fair track will be generally 25 to 27 fathoms ; from 33 to 40 fathoms will be near
the pyramids of the South Sands, and with 17 or 18 fathoms when abreast the shoals
in the biglit, indicates being much nearer to them than to the South Sands. This may
be useful as a general remark, but the soundings are often irregular in the channel ;
for a little to the southward of Parcelar Point, there are 30 fathoms within 2 miles of
the Shore Bank, 20 fathoms close to it, and from 10 to 14 fathoms contiguous to Bam-
bek Shoal. There are also some small banks in the channel, having from 11 to
15 fathoms water on them, but these are few, and generally on the shore side of the
channel. Particular care must be taken not to deepen above 36 or 38 fathoms towards
the pyramids that form the eastern extremity of the South Sands, for the depths
increase near them on the N. E. side to 38, 40, or 44 fathoms, then decrease suddenly
to 30, 20, 10, and 2 or 1^ fathoms upon them. If the lead be kept going, the deep
soundings in the outer part of the channel are a certain indication of the proximity of
this part of the South Sands, when passing in the night. To the N. Westward, oppo-
site Parcelar Hill, the depths near the edges of the South Sands are not so great as
near the easternmost part. When Cape Rachado is brought to bear N. E. there is
thought to be no danger, for after passing the cape a little way, the strait is considered
to be safe from side to side, excepting a bank about 6 leagues to the S. Westward of
the Water Islands, on which the Milford grounded. It is, however, advisable, not to
exceed the distance of 4 leagues from the Malay coast, in sailing from Cape Rachado
to Malacca ; and the cape may be passed at the distance of from 1 to 6 or 7 miles, as
circumstances require. About 2 leagues to the S. Eastward of the cape, there is a
small bank in the channel, with 10 and 12 fathoms on it ; and the deptiis in the offing
are irregular, from 1 6 to 25 fathoms betwixt Cape Rachado and Tanjong Clin ; but far-
ther eastward they become more regular.*
* Captain M. Quin, of H. M. S. Raleigh, found a shoal patch about mid-way between the north point of
PuloRoupat and Tanjong Clin; he gives the following bearings for it: — Cape Rachado, N. j W.; Mount Ophin
MALACCA STRAIT. — COAST NEAR MALACCA, 255
TANJONG CLLN, or Peer Punjah, about 5 miles to the N.W. of Fisher's Island, Tanjong ciin,
and G^ or 7 leagues S. E. by E. from Cape Hachado, is known by two or three trees on ^'^^ ^g^f^"'"'
its extremity more elevated than the others near the sea. The coast betwixt it and
Cape Rachado forms a bight, and being rocky in several parts, with 17 and IB fathoms
not far from the shore, should not be approached nearer than "J^ or 3 miles, for the
soundings, not being always regular, do not afford a sufficient guide. About G or 7 miles
east of Cape Rachado is the entrance of Lenque or Lengey River, a considerable
stream, navigable by small vessels ; but the river and the bight between it and Cape
Rachado is fronted by detached rocks.
The coast about 2 leagues to the N.W. of Tanjong Clin is lined by straggling rocks
under water, projecting 1^ or 2 miles from the shore, with 10 and 11 fathoms between
some of them ; near and outside of these there is a large rock always above water,
called Diana Rock, from the country ship of this name having been wrecked on it; it Diana Rock.
is distant 1^ or 2 miles from the shore, having near it 17, 18, and 19 fathoms, irregular
soundings.
The snow Forth stood in and let go her anchor in 12 fathoms during the night, when
near high water, and after tending to the ebb, got fast aground upon one of these
sunken rocks: this shews the impropriety of borrowing too close to the shore hereabout
in the night,
FISHER ISLAND, bounding the N.W. side of Malacca Road, is low and level, Fisher island,
encompassed, and joined to the main by foul ground ; it ought not to be approached
under 15 fathoms towards the south end, these depths being near the edge of the shoal.
With tlie extremes of the island bearing from N. by W. to N.N.W., body of it N. by
W. 1 W., distant half a mile, there is a Circular Shoal, about 10 or 12 fathoms in shoai.
extent, having 18 feet on it at low water spring tides, the bottom sand and stones,
intermixed with mud.* To avoid this shoal and other rocks near the S. E. side of
Fisher Island, do not stand nearer to the island than 1 mile ; and tack from it in 15
fathoms, with the lead kept briskly going, when working into Malacca Road during
the night. The coast about Tanjong Clin, and from thence to Malacca Road, may be
approached to 14 or 15 fathoms, but it would be imprudent to go under these depths in
a large ship, particularly in the night.
In sailing from Cape Rachado towards Malacca, or the Water Islands, which bear From capc
from that cape about S. E.^ E., distant 12 leagues, keep from 3 to 6 or 7 miles off ji^^ucca! or to
shore, in soundings from Hi to 20 fathoms, for they are not always regular ; when the water
well out in the offing, the depths in some parts increase to 24 or 26 fathoms, par-
ticularly opposite Tanjong Clin and Malacca. If not intending to stop here, steer a
course to pass outside of the Water Islands, at any discretional distance ; but if bound
into Malacca Road, with the wind from the land, Fisher Island may be rounded within
1^ miles.
If working into MALACCA ROAD in the night, or approaching it from south- Malacca Road.
Peak, E. N. E. ; north end of Pulo Roupat West ; and south end of Pulo Roupat S. S.W. ^ W. ; in lat. 2° 10' N.,
Ion. 101° 54' E, The shoal, he says, appears to be li miles in length N. N.W, and S, S, E.—{Naul. Mag. for
lb38, /). 793.)
* Tlie Sarah, borrowing too close, shoaled from 10 to 5 fathoms at a cast; other eliips, approaching still
nearer to Fisher Island, have grounded on the shoal ; and in 1789, 1 saw a snow, bound from Manilla to Madras,
run aground upon the spit which projects from Fisher Island, by borrowing too close after weighing from Ma-
lacca Road. There is a narrow channel between this spit and the Circular Shoal, through which the Terpsi-
chore frigate passed in 1803.
256
MALACCA.
Panjang Reef.
Anchorage.
Squalls.
Tides.
Malacca Fort.
Inland
country.
ward, when round the Water Islands, do not haul in too close to the rocky flat, called
Panjang Reef, which projects about 2 miles from the shore, and extends along it to
Pulo Java or Red Island, near Malacca.
The church and flagstaff on the hill bear from the west end of Panjang Reef N. ^ E.
distant H miles, and from its east end N. N.W. ^ W. distant 3^ miles : within 2 cables'
lengths of its southern edge, there are 18 and 19 fathoms water, and 16 fathoms close to
the rocks ; the lead is therefore no guide if you go under 18 or 19 fathoms towards the
S. Eastern edge of the reef. The Cartier and Asia, returning from China in different sea-
sons, got upon this reef by hauling up too soon for the road, during the night, where they
lay one tide in a very dangerous situation ; the Cartier had 4^ fathoms under her stern at
low water, with the rocks appearing above water close to her stem. Several other ships
have grounded on this reef in the night ; the Shah Byramgore barely escaped, by an-
choring close to the rocks.*
From 20 fathoms in the oflSng, the depths decrease regularly over a bottom of soft
mud towards the road, where the best anchorage is under 10 fathoms, with the church
on the hill N. E. by E., Fisher Island N.W. i W., and the tuft of trees East, off" the
town about \^ or 2 miles. When the depth is more than 10 fathoms, the bottom is
generally stiff" clay, requiring good cables to purchase the anchors, after they are seated
in the ground ; but under 10 fathoms the bottom is soft mud, and continues so close to
the shore. Large ships may anchor in from 7 to 9 fathoms ; and small ones in 6, 5,
or 4 fathoms at discretion, there being no danger if they should happen to ground on
the soft mud bank that fronts the town. Ships should not anchor on the east side of
the road near Red Island, for the bottom is foul and rocky, the depth decreasing sud-
denly from 8 to 3 fathoms on the northern extremity of Panjang Reef. During the
S.W. monsoon, sudden hard squalls frequently blow into the road from the Sumatra
side in the night, accompanied with much thunder, lightning, and rain ; several ships
have been damaged here by lightning at various times. It is
9^ hours, on full and
through the road 2 hours after high and low water on the ground ; and boats cannot
get into the river after half-ebb. The rise of tide is from 8 to 10 feet on the springs,
and it runs about 2 miles per hour. The sea worm is very destructive in this road to
vessels or boats which have not copper sheathing.
Malacca Fort, or the Church on the Hill, is in lat. 2° 12' JN., Ion. 102° 15' E., by
mean of a series of lunar observations taken by different navigators, corroborated by
chronometers from Penang. This hill, on which the church is built, and where the
colours are displayed, stands in the centre of the fort, fronting the sea on the south side
the river ; and on its south side the town lines the sea front, there being a draw-bridge
of communication. The lighthouse is 140 feet above the level of the sea, from which
Tanjong Clin bears W. 8" N., outer extreme of Fisher Island W. 12° N. to W. 16° N.,
small rocky reef off" the west end of Red Island S. 3° W., West extreme of Red Island
S. 2° E., body of the Outer Water Island S. 31° E., anchorage in the Road from
S. 46° W. to S. 62° W.
The country a few leagues inland from Malacca is formed of undulating hills, mode-
rately elevated, called Malacca Hills, and 7^ leagues E. by N. ^ N. from it stands the
high mountain Goonong Ledang, called also Queen Mount, or Mount Ophir; but the
high water in the road at
change of moon ; the tides of flood and ebb continue to run
* H. M. S. Trident, bearing Admiral Rainier's flag, going into the road in a dark night, with a strong
breeze, saw the breakers on the reef, and brought up with two anchors within a cable's length of the
reef in 18 fathoms. A lighthouse has been erected at Malacca, to guide ships into the road clear of Panjang
Reef.
MALACCA STRAIT. — WATER ISLANDS. 257
coast and land adjacent to the town is low, and all the country is mostly covered with
wood.*
Malacca is convenient for ships requiring water and refreshments. Water is water and
obtained on application to the master attendant ; and fish, yams, sago, and a variety of '"pp''^*-
excellent fruits, may be procured at moderate prices. Bufliiloes, a few hogs, and some
poultry, may also be obtained, and grain imported from Java, Sumatra, or Bengal.
Dammer for caulking is an article of trade here, and poon spars for masts brought
over from Siak River, on the opposite coast of Sumatra.
Boats may proceed into the river soon after a quarter flood ; they should steer for
the Church on the Hill, keeping it rather on the starboard bow, and when the bar
is approached, the channel may be discovered by the stakes at tlie entrance of the
river.
FROM MALACCA TO SINGAPORE STRAIT.
THE WATER ISLANDS, or FOUR BROTHERS, lying from 6 to 10 miles water islands.
S. Eastward of Malacca Road, are high, small, round islands, covered with trees, and
take their first name from a fifth, or larger one, nearer to the coast, whiclj has excel-
lent fresh water on its eastern side. As the flood tide sets along tlie coast from
Malacca Road towards these islands, ships leaving the road should steer well out to
seaward, in order to round the outer island at a convenient distance ; close to this island
there are 17 or 18 fathoms, and 20 fathoms about a mile ofl".
The passage for ships, is outside these islands, but Captain J. Lindsay's examination
of this place proves that small ships may occasionally pass with safety between some
of them, if any advantage is to be gained by it. Inside the outer island, and also be-
twixt the westernmost and the others, the passage is safe, and the depths 18 and 19
fatlioms, soft mud.
The widest channel is between the large island and the Four Brothers, were it not channels i.e-
for a rock or reef under water, nearly in mid-channel. When upon it in 8 feet at low '^''"" '''*'"•
water, the west end of the large Water Island bore N. N.W^W.,and Malacca church
open to the westward of it 1° 29j' by sextant, the N. E. end of the Large Island
N. ^ W.,the westernmost Brother W. S.W., and the small island or point to the east-
ward of the southernmost Brother, just appearing over the rocky point of the east end
of the Middle Brother, bearing then S. ^ E. There is a passage on either side this
rock, in 18 and 19 fathoms water; and it may be avoided, by keeping pretty close
either to the Middle Brother or the Large Island ; for the rock is about a mile
from the S. E. end of the latter, and nearly the same distance from the Miildle
Brother. After passing through this channel, the depth will decrease to 10 or 12
fathoms on the mud bank fronting the coast to the eastward of the islands, on which
there is no danger.
Vessels coming from eastward, to pass through this channel, may keep the soutli end
of the Large Water Island N.W., or more westerly, until they shut in the southernmost
Brother with the two others; or they may steer for the iN . Easternmost Brotlier, and
pass it half a mile distant, not bringing the westernmost Brother to the soutliward of
S.W. by W. I W. until past the Middle Brother, which may be approached within 100
yards without danger.
* Being situated near the equator, on the side of a strait, liable to calms, with offensive mud banks, ■which
dry every tide, close to the houses, and the low country around being almost an impenetrable forest, from
which noxious vapours and exhalations arise ; it might naturally be expected that Malacca would be an unhealthy
place. It is, however, the most healthy place known in India, so near to the eijuator.
VOL. II. 2 L
258
MALACCA STRAIT. — MOUNT FORMOSA.
The large Water Island has several springs of good water, some of them in the form
of wells, enclosed with bricks, where excellent water may be iiad. There is anchorage
in 10 fatiioms, mud, about half or three-quarters of a mile from the l)each, with the
south end of the island bearing N.W. by VV. ^ W., and Mount Mora E. by S. Capt.
Vassall, of H. M. S. Harrier, says that a ship may receive as much water here as she
requires, by keeping her boats constantly at work, excepting near the time of low tide,
when the reefs which surround the island are dry. Small vessels ought, however, to
be on their guard against the treachery of piratical proas, which Inrk here at times, to
procure a supply of water, and to assault defenceless vessels.
Fioin the
Outer Water
Island to the
S. Eastward.
OUTER WATER ISLAND bears S. E. from Malacca Road, distant 9 or 10
miles ; in passing it with a working wind, do not stand above 4 leagues to the S.
Westward, on account of the Three Fathoms Bank on which the Milford grounded ;
this bank is thought to lie about 6 leagues S.W. from these islands ; a few miles farther
to the north-westward we shoaled suddenly in the Anna, from 28 to 8 fathoms, and
tacked. After rounding the Water Islands, the coast may be approached to 12 or 13
fathoms in working, until past Mount Mora ; the Sumatra coast may also he ap-
proached occasionally to 14 fathoms in this part of the strait; but it is best to keep
nearest the Malay side, to prevent getting outside the Long Bank in the middle of
the strait, to the southward of Mount Formosa.
Mount Moar,
and contiguous
MOUNT MOAR, or MORA, in lat. 1° 59' N., bearing E. by S. about 8 leagues
from tlie Outer Water Island, is an isolated hill near the sea, covered with wood,
and just visible from Malacca Road. TanjongTor, the contiguous point of land, bears
about E. S. E. from the Outer Water Island, and, with tiie whole of the coast in this
space, is low level land, having several small rivers falling into the sea. The coast
from thence to Formosa River continues low and woody, and the whole of the oppo-
site land of Sumatra is low, and covered with trees.
Mount For-
mosa.
Formosa
Bank.
MOUNT FORMOSA, in lat. 1° 49' N., Ion. 102° 55' E., or 40 miles East from
Malacca by chronometers, is the highest summit of a group of undulating mountains
near the sea, and is just discernible from the Water Islands. The western end of this
mount forms the bluflT point of land, called Point Sizan, on the east side the entrance
of Formosa River, which extends a considerable way into the country. Abreast this
river there is an extensive shoal, called Formosa Bank, on which the Murad-bux, in
1800, shoaled to 2^ fathoms. The Asia, steering along shore to the S. Eastward in
12 and 14 fathoms with the land wind, shoaled suddenly, and grounded on this bank,
in June, 1803, where she lay one tide. When aground in 2,j fathoms at low water,
Formosa Peak bore N. E. by E. ^ E., entrance of Formosa River N. E. ^ E., Mount
Mora N.VV. by N., western extreme of the land N.W. by W., off Formosa River 5 or
(J miles ; this appears to be the shoalest part of the bank, and consists of black sand.
This dangerous part of the bank seems to be connected with Point Sizan by a shoal
spit, from which it is distant about 4 miles, and nearly equally distant from the point
on the other side of Formosa River. From the shoalest part of the bank, a spit ex-
tends a great way N. Westward, with 5, G, and 7 fathoms water, and probably reaches
the siiore a little eastward of Tanjong Tor, or about S. S. E. from Mount Mora.
Betwixt the bank and the coast there are regular soundings, 10 and 12 fathoms, soft
ground; \vhen the Asia floated, she was drifted inside the bank by a squall, and
steered 3 miles to the N.W. along its inner edge, in 8 and 9 fathoms ; then crossed it
MALACCA STRAIT. — PISANG. 259
in 5 fathoms, with the western extreme bearing N.W.^W., Mount Mora N.W.
by N., Mount Formosa E. by N. ^ N., and a little hill near the shore with a peaked
summit N. N. E. ^ E. On the outer edge of the bank the depths decrease sud-
denly; but the lead, if kept briskly going, will indicate its proximity, and give warning
to tack.
About 5 miles W. N.W. from Formosa Bank there is a small bank of 10 to 8
fathoms, having 18 and 17 fathoms between it and the shore. The Antelope had two
casts of 9 fathoms, sand, on this bank, with Mount Formosa bearing E. \ N., Mount
Mora IN. by VV., blufl'end of Formosa Hills forming Point Sizan E. by N., oft" shore
about 8 miles, and in crossing towards the shore had 18 fathoms. From Mount Mora
about S.W., and 3^ or 4 leagues oft" the Sumatra shore, we shoaled in the Anna from other banks
2-5 to 11 fathoms upon a bank, and deepened regularly when over it to 23 fathoms; "ot dangerous.
then shoaled again to 11 fathoms, where we tacked, about 4 miles from the coast of
Sumatra. These small banks in the fair channel here, and in other parts of the
strait, with from to 14 fathoms on them, may sometimes cause anxiety to persons
unacquainted, when not certain of their position in the night.
PULO PISANG, in lat. \° 28' N., and 59 miles East from Malacca, by chrono- puIo Pisang.
meter, is of middling height, covered with wood, and composed of three iiummocks ;
the central part is of round form, and being rather more elevated than the other hum-
mocks, may be seen 8 or 9 leagues. The island lies about 4 or 5 miles from the coast,
and is connected with it by an extensive mud bank, over which there is said to be a
channel with 3 or 4 fathoms water, tit for small vessels. Close to the east side of
Pulo Pisang there are two round islets, and two others, of similar aspect, contiguous to
its western side. On the largest of these fresh water may be sometimes procured.
It is high water here at 10^ hours on full and change of moon. Tides.
From the brow of the western point of Pulo Pisang, Ca])tain Ross observed the
peak of Mount Formosa to bear N. 43° 41' W., bv theodolite, centre of Little Pisang
N. 82° 4' W., Peak of the Great Carimon S. 1})° E., and the other peak of ditto
S. 27° 25' E.
The land fronting the sea, betwixt Mount Formosa and Pulo Pisang, is low and
woody, excepting Battoo Baloo, a small round mount near the sea, rather more than
half-way between Formosa and Pisang.
The coast from Mount Formosa to Pulo Pisang, and from thence to Pulo Cocob, is The coast and
lined by a shoal mud bank, projecting 2 and 3 miles oft" shoie in some places, and 'mna^blink"""
2 leagues to the N.W. of Pisang ; it is thought to extend 3 or 4 miles from the coast,
leaving a concave space of good soundings nearer the land, which is steep to, on the
N.W. and west sides. Captain Hous, of II. M. S. Rainbow, observes, however, that
the Malay coast, between Pulo Pisang and Formosa Point, may be approached within
2 miles of the beach, anywhere to the northward of Pulo Pisang, as the mud bank
does not extend so far oft" from the land as hitherto represented. On the edge of this
shore bank the depths decrease suddenly from 10 or 9 to 0, 5, and 4 fathoujs, to the
N.W. of Pisang ; and from 12 or 1 1 to 4, 3, and 2 fathoms to the S. Eastward of that
island, being iiere more stee|) and dangerous.
It may be observed, as a general rule, that on the edges of the shore banks through-
out the strait the depths decrease suddenly ; and also on the edges of those in the
offing.
THE PISANG BANKS, exclusive of that lining the coast last mentioned, are Pisang Banks.
2 I. 2
260
MALACCA STRAIT. — SUMATRA BANK.
Fair Channel
IJank.
three in number. Tlie first, called the Fair Channel Bank, extends parallel to
the coast, in the direction of the channel, and lies a little nearer to the shore bank
than to the Long Middle Bank, which lies outside it. Mount Formosa bears about
North from its northern extremity, and Pnlo Pisang about North from its southern
extreme ; the depths on it are generally from 8 to 11 fathoms, and tlie least water
known is G^ to 7 ftithoms in two places near its south end, with Pulo Pisang bearing
respectively E. by N. and N. E. by N. from 4 to 5 miles. There appear to be some
small gaps in this bank, as I have crossed over it with the lead going, and had not
any shoal soundings ; but these gaps are very narrow, for ships making long tacks
across the channel generally get soundings from 8 to 11 or 12 fathoms in crossing
over the bank, which is a good guide in the night. Tiie depths betwixt this bank and
the shore bank are 13 to 20 fathoms ; and between it and the Long Middle Bank,
generally from 16 to 24 fathoms, but not always regular.
Long Middle
Bank.
Sumatra Bank.
LONG MIDDLE BANK, distant 6 or 7 miles outside the Fair Channel Bank,
and extending parallel to it and to the coast, lies nearly in mid-strait between the
Malay and Sumatra shores. From its N. Western extremity, which is the shoalest
part. Mount Formosa bears N. by E. \ E., and Pulo Pisang E. ^ S. to E. | S. ; and
from thence to the north end of the Great Carimon it is a continued narrow bank,
having 3^ and 4 fathoms at low water on its N. Western extremity, 4 and 5 fathoms on
its middle part, and 6^ to 8 fathoms on its S. Eastern part towards the Carimons. With
Mount Formosa bearing N. by E. ^ E. and Pulo Pisang E. f S., we anchored in 4^
fathoms, and the least water found, in sounding around with the boats, was 3j fathoms
at low water, soft ground.
The Dublin had 3^ and 3f fathoms at low water upon it. Mount F'ormosa bearing
N. by E., which was the least water found, the bottom soft, excepting a cast or two
of sand.
Tlie Nottingham had three casts of 4| fathoms, crossing over the bank, with Mount
Formosa N.|^ W. and Pulo Pisang E. ^ N., and as it was not far from high water at
the time: the depth in this place is probably about 3| fathoms at low water.
This Long Middle Bank can hardly be considered dangerous, for it consists mostly
of soft muddy bottom, with seldom less than 4 fathoms water on it ; excepting the
north-western part, where there are some patches of 3^ or 3f fathoms at low water, over
a bottom of hard black sand mixed with mud. A ship drawing 21 or 22 feet water
might probably touch at low tide on these patches, but this will seldom or never happen
with proper care. In a ship drawing 20 and 21 feet water, I have frequently crossed
over this bank in different parts without apprehending any danger. It is, however,
best to keep in the proper channel, betwixt it and the Malay shore. Both it and the
Fair Channel Bank are narrow, but of great length.
SUMATRA BANK, the third in number from that adjoining the Malay shore,
lies to the S.W. of, and nearly parallel to, the Long Middle Bank, stretching about
half-way from the Sumatra shore towards the Long Middle Bank.
Its western extreme, having depths from 3 to 4 fathoms, is in lat. 1° 27' N., bearing
about S.W. by S. from Mount Formosa, and distant o or 6 miles from the east side of
Pulo Bucalisse, bearing E. by S. ^ S. from the N. E. point of that island, which forms
the projecting part of the Sumatra side of the strait in this part.
In lat. ]° 23' N., and bearing S. by VV. to S. by W. ^ W. from Mount Formosa, there
is a projecting part of the bank extending East and West several miles, with depths
Formosa Bank.
MALACCA STRAIT. — PASSAGE FROM THE WATER ISLANDS TO PISANG. 261
from 2 to 4 fathoms. In lat. 1° 21' N., about 4 or 5 miles farther eastward, and bear-
ing South a little westerly from Mount Formosa, there is another shoal part, with only
H and 2 fathoms water on it. These two shoal parts of the Sumatra Bank last men-
tioned lie nearest to the Long Middle Bank, being only 4 or 5 miles from it, making
the channel betwixt these banks only 4 or 3^ miles wide.
In 1787, the Locko grounded upon the Sumatra Bank in 2^ fathoms at low water,
sand and mud, with Mount Formosa bearing N. by E. 10 or 12 leagues, Pulo Pisang
E. N. E. about 8 leagues, off the Sumatra shore about 3 leagues. Before grounding,
she passed over a bank of 4 fathoms, w ith Mount Formosa bearing N. ^ E. and Pulo
Pisang E. N. E. When she floated, they steered N.E. with the boats sounding a-head,
shoaled from 5 to .3f fathoms, and then deepened to 16 fathoms in the channel betwixt
the Sumatra Bank and the Long Middle Bank.
Pulo Pisang bears S. E. by E., 66 or 67 miles from the Outer ^Yater Island ; and To sail from
when abreast the latter, at 1 to 3 or 4 miles' distance, that course will carry you about Liands^to puIo
the same distance outside the bank that fronts Formosa River, if not affected by lateral Pisang.
tides. The flood sets generally fair through the strait from the Water Islands to the
Carimons, and the ebb in the opposite direction, about 2 miles per hour on the springs.
When Mount Formosa is brought to bear about N.E., keep within 3, or at most 4, leagues
of the Malay coast, to prevent falling to the southward of the north end of the Long
Middle Bank. If the weather is clear, and Pulo Pisang be discerned, keep it between
E. by S.^ S. and S. E. by E. ^ E., until Mount Formosa is brought to bear North, or
N. by W., in working betwixt the north end of the Long Middle Bank and the coast.
If a ship, in proceeding past Formosa Bank in the night, should, by giving it too wide To pass the
a berth, get far out in the offing, and at day-light find herself to the southward of the
Long Middle Bank, she may continue to sail along the outside of it : or if the wind be
contrary, she may work to the S. Eastward betwixt it and the Sumatra Bank, there being
a safe channel between them, with soundings of 16 to 19 fathoms, shoaling quick on the
edge of either bank. It will be prudent to work nearest the edge of the Long INIiddle
Bank, as the Sumatra Bank is not safe to work upon; and when Pulo Pisang is brought
to bear about N.E. by E., she may cross over the Long Middle Bank ; for on this part
of it the depths are 5^, 6, or 7 fathoms, in crossing over it to the eastward to regain tlie
proper channel. Pulo Pisang may be brought to bear S. E. by E. in standing towards
the edge of the bank that lines the coast betwixt it and Mount Formosa, excepting
about 2 leagues to the N.W.of that island, Avhere it forms an elbow, and should not be
borrowed on so close ; for there 5 fathoms are found on the verge of it, with Pulo
Pisang bearing S.E. by E. ; but when nearer Pisang, the outer islet may be brought
to bear S. by E. or South. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear N. by ^^'.,
Pulo Pisang may occasionally be brought to bear E. ^ S., or East, in standing towards
the Long Middle Bank. ""J'he channel is generally 3^ to 4 leagues broad, and the
soundings in crossing over the Fair Channel Bank will be a guide in working through
the channel during the night ; or you may stand into 10 or 12 fathoms on the edge of
the Shore Bank, and of!" to 18 or 20 fathoms. In day-light, when abreast of Mount
Formosa, and Pulo Pisang is visible, bearing E. S. E., or E. S. E. ^ S., steer for it ;
either of these bearings will carry you nearly in mid-channel, between the Long
Middle Bank and the shore. AA hen Pulo Pisang draws near, its western side and the
two islets off it, may be approached within half a mile, if thougiit proper, as they are
bold close to, with 13 and 15 fathoms witiiin a cable's length of them ; and in standing
ofl' shore about 3^ leagues from the island, you will be close to, or upon the S. E. part
of the Long Middle Bank, where on it are 6 or 6^ fathoms. In working, when pass-
262 MALACCA STRAIT. — THE CARIMONS.
ing Piilo Pisang, tack about H or 2 miles from it, in 14 to 17 fathoms, and do not
stand off from it above 3 leagues.
Puio cocob, PULO COCOB, bearing from Pnlo Pisang about S. E. ^ E., distant 4J- or 5
coast!''^'"^^'" leagues, is a low flat island, close to the Malay shore, which may be known by the
trees on its N.W. side being of a bright green colour, low, and resembling grass ; but
on its south end they are tall, erect poon trees, like those on the adjoining coast, from
which it is perceived to be separated by a creek or narrow strait, when the bluff S. E.
point of Pulo Cocob that forms the entrance of the strait is bearing N. by W. ^ W.
The coast betwixt Pulo Pisang and Pulo Cocob is lined by a shoal mud bank, with
small gaps in it and projecting spits, which should not be approached under 12
fathoms ; for it is generally steep to, from 11 or 12 fathoms. The Gunjavar shoaled
suddenly from 14 to 5 fathoms on the edge of it, a little to the S. E. of Pulo Pisang;
she had 3 fathoms in stays, and touched the ground, the outermost islet off Pisang
bearing N.W. ^ W., the innermost one N. N.W. ^ W., distant 2 or 3 miles from Pulo
Pisang,
To sail from Do not bring the outer islet off Pulo Pisang to the westward of N.W., until 4 or 5
towaids^siifga- iii'lcs past Pisaug, in Standing towards the shore bank; the western part of Pisang
pore Strait. may then be brought to bear occasionally N.W., in working towards Pulo Cocob, or
the shore should not be approached nearer than 11 or 12 fathoms.
In the fair channel, between Pulo Pisang and Little Carimon, the depth is mostly
from 16 to 18 fathoms, differing very little, until the water shoals on the edges of the
banks that bound it on either side : Avhen the North-Eastern Brother is on with the
north end of Little Carimon, or nearly so, it is a good mark to tack from the south side
of the channel, for the depths begin theji to decrease quickly on the S. E. end of the
Long Middle Bank, when under 13 fathoms. In working during the night, keep the
lead briskly going, and do not borrow under 13 or 14 fathoms on either side; with a
fair wind, keep in 17 to 19 fathoms about mid-channel.
Little Carimon LITIXE CARIMON, bearing from the highest part of Pulo Pisang S. 25° E.,
and^the Bro- ^^^^^^^ ^ ^^, ^i igag^ies, is a high bold island, about 2^ miles in length N.W. and S. E.,
and one mile in breadth, rising to a peak in the centre, covered with trees ; its north
end is in lat. 1° 8^' N. The round islets, called the Brothers, lie to the N.W. of it ; the
two outermost, about 3 miles oft', are near each other; the other, of similar appearance,
lies within a mile of the Carimon, and is not so soon discerned as the two outer ones.
About 2 miles to the southward of the Brothers there is a rock above water, not far off
Great Carimon, and entirely out of the track of ships.
mon
Great Cari- GREAT CARIMON, Separated from the south-west side of Little Carimon by a
narrow passage, has near its north end two high peaked hills ; from the base of these,
it consists of low level land, the whole extent of the island being 3 leagues in a
S. S. Easterly direction towards the straits of Durian, and it nearly joins the northern
extremity of Sabon Island. Near the west side of Great Carimon there are several low
islands of various sizes, and its east side is fronted by a shoal mud bank; but the N.E.
point has from 6 to 8 fathoms water very near it, about a mile from the islet that lies
in the passage between it and the south end of Little Carimon : from the south end of
the latter, a flat with 2^ fathoms on it projects one mile off ; the depths increasing to
3|, 4, and 5 fathoms, at a greater distance from Little Carimon.
On the north and east sides, the Brothers and Little Carimon are bold to approach.
MALACCA STRAIT. — TANJONG BOULUS. 2G3
with soundings of 18 to 22 fathoms near them, and generally 17 or 18 fathoms in mid-
channel betwixt Little Carimon and the S. E. point of Pulo Cocob, from which it bears
S. by W., distant 8 or 9 miles : the depths are nearly the same from mid-channel,
close to the edge of the bank that projects out from the Malay shore to the distance of
1^ miles; and it stretches from Pulo Cocob entrance to the eastward around Tanjong
Boulus.
TANJONG BOULUS, or BOORO, in lat. 1° 15' N., about 4 miles S. Eastward Tanjong
from the south end of Pulo Cocob, and 3 leagues N. E. by N. from Little Carimon, is b°"'"^-
the southernmost extremity of the Malay Peninsula, and of the continent of Asia ; it
is a broad semicircular tongue of low land, having high trees on its western side; and
low, bright green mangroves to the eastward. Inland about 6^ leagues to the north-
ward of Tanjong Boulus, there is an isolated mount, called Goonoong Poolai, or Pon-
tiana ; all the adjacent country is low.
The mud bank that extends from Pulo Cocob entrance, around Tanjong Boulus, is and the adjoin-
steep to, on the outer edge, and projects about H or 2 miles from the shore. The '"g mud bank.
Milibrd grounded on it in 178G. H. M. S. Dedaigneuse, in company with the fleet
from China, in January, 1805, steering W. by N., grounded upon it in the night: she
had 8 feet water over the starboard bow, 5 fathoms under the stern, and the anchor
laid out with two-thirds of a cable in an E. S. E. direction to heave the ship off by, was
in 17 fathoms water. When aground, the N.W. end of Little Carimon bore S. 50° W.,
south end of it S. 33° W., North Brother W. 28° S., the S.W. end of Pulo Cocob
N. 57° W., north side of it N. 48° W., the eastern rounding of Tanjong Boulus
N. 58° E., its western rounding N. 46° VV., the limit between the low green man-
groves to the eastward and the high trees westward bearing North, off the nearest
part of the shore about \^ miles. Abreast of Pulo Cocob opening, the mud bank
projects a little farther from the shore ; and 14 or 15 fathoms is near the verge of it in
that part.
From Tanjong Boulus, the coast takes a N. E. direction towards the Old Strait of oid strait of
Singapore, which is formed between the main and the west part of Singapore Island, Singapore.
having Pulo Marambon, called also Isle Cobra, in the entrance. This strait is from
half a mile to 1^ miles broad, with soundings of 5 or 6, to 9 or 10 fathoms, bounded
on the south side by the large island Singapore, and on the north by the main land of
Johore and the contiguous islands. Betwixt the east point of Singapore Island and
Johore Hill, the eastern mouth of the Old Strait communicates with the large strait,
now in general use; the former being more conti'acted, and having strong tides, is now
seldom chosen by any ship.*
FROM abreast Tanjong Boulus, at 3 or 4 miles' distance, the course is about E. S. E. course from
to pass on the north side of Tree Island, and to round the Rabbit and Coney at the i^s"to pas^""
entrance of Singapore Strait ; but this must depend on the direction of the wind and Tree- island.
tide, the latter being very irregular hereabout, occasioned by the various islands and
channels. The flood from the Bay of Bengal sets through the strait to the Carimons, Tides.
and about Tree Island it meets the flood tide which comes from the China Sea by the
Strait of Singapore, producing a division of tides at this place. About Tree Island, the
* Captain Benners, in an American ship, went into the eastern entrance of the Old Strait, several years ago,
and anchored at Johore in search of pepper. At leaving that place, he passed to tlie westward tiirough the
Old Strait, backed and filled with the tide most of the way, and had no less water than 5 fathoms, regular
soundings.
264
SINGAPORE STRAIT,
tide sometimes sets fiiir through the channel, about W. N.W. and E. S. E., 5 or G hours
each way ; and at other times 6 hours in one direction, and 12 or 18 hours in the oppo-
site direction. It sometimes sets about N.W. and S. E., frequently North and South,
in a direct line across the channel, betwixt the Straits of Durian and the west en-
trance of the Old Strait of Singapore. After getting 8 or 9 miles to the eastward of
Little Carimon, it is prudent in the niglit to anchor, for it would then be very danger-
ous to pass Tree Island, on account of the uncertainty of the tides, unless Barn Island
be distinctly seen, and its bearing obtained coi-rectly.
SIIVGAPORE STRAIT.
Singapore
Strait.
Tree Island:
to pass it.
Red Island,
and the Bro-
thers,
SINGAPORE STRAIT, called Governor Strait, or New Strait, by the French and
Portuguese, may be considered to commence at Tree Island, which is the first danger
in the approach to it, and where the channel becomes narrow ; from thence, it extends
about 17 leagues to Pedro Branco, at its eastern entrance.
TREE ISLAND or BANK,* in lat. 1° 7^' N., bearing from the north end of Little
Carimon East a little southerly, distant about 5 or 5^ leagues, and from the Coney off
the south end of Barn Island W, 9° S., distant 5 or 6 miles, is a bank of rocks and
sand very little elevated above the sea at high water, having on it two small trees or
bushes, separated from each other. From the West and N.W. part, a reef or spit pro-
jects one mile, on the extremity of which, the water shoals when passing near, and it
ought not to be approached under 13 or 14 fathoms.
In clear weather during the day, the North Peak of Great Carimon on with the
South Point of Little Carimon is ia fair mark for passing Tree Island; but in dark
weather, or in the night. Barn Island is the best guide.
The south end of Barn Island kept E. by S. is a mid-channel bearing, in passing
Tree Island. With a working wind, do not near the shoal on the north side of the
channel, more than to bring the south end of Barn Island E. S. E., nor approach Tree
Island nearer than to have the same bearing E. 5° S. Abreast theN.E. point of
Tree Island we had 13 and 14 fathoms, being near it, with the south end of Barn
Island bearing E. 3° S. ; but it should not be brought to the Eastward of E. 5° S.
or E. 4° S., when abreast the N.W. end of Tree Island. It is high water off Tree
Island at 1^ hours, when the tides are inclined to be regular, but they seldom are so.
RED ISLAND, distant 2f miles, nearly E. S. E. from Tree Island, and S. 46° W. 3^
miles from the Coney, is small, with a beach of red sand, and covered with green trees.
The Brothers, about three-quarters and 1^ miles S. E. by S. from Red Island, are two
islands covered with trees ; the northern one, called Long Island, is low, lying about
half-way between Red Island and the other, called Round Island, which is small, and
considerably elevated.
* See a former section, " Directions for Sailing through the Straits of Durian and Phillips Channelj" for a
further description of this, and other dangers. It is proposed to erect a lighthouse, or beacon with a light,
upon Tree Island, to guide ships in passing it in the night.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. 265
There is a passage to the southward of Tree Island, and betwixt it and Red Island, Passage i.e-
through which the ship La Paix, Captain Wright, sailed on her voyage from Bengal to Refisknds*"''
China, in July, 1805. They carried soundings of 15 and 20 fathoms to the southward
of Tree Island, and shoaled to 8 fathoms soft bottom when abreast Red Island, about
half a mile distant.
In December, 181J, the Charlotte, with several other ships under convoy of
H. M. S. Clorinda, froui China, rounded the Coney in the night, and the wind
being scant from the northward, in hauling up for the Carimon, they fell to leeward of
Tree Island,* seen on the weather bow, a dangerous situation. At this time most of
the ships tacked, but the Charlotte grounded on the KEINT ROCK,]' wliich is about Kent Rock.
20 feet square, having on it 1^ fathoms at low water, with 5^ and 6 fathoms all round,
deepening to 8, 10, 15, 17, and 35 fathoms at a small distance to the N. Eastward of it.
When upon the rock. Tree Island bore from N. 63° W. to N.85°W., Red Island
S. 57° E., just touching the east end of Long Island, Round Island S. 51° E., the
Rabbit a sail's breadth open with St. John's N. 07° E., Coney N. 72° E., Barn Island
N. 54° E. to N. 65° E. She lay on the rock till high water, then floated off, and when
aground on it, the tide ran past her about 4 knots to the southward ; whilst the other
ships and the frigate, at anchor within 2 cables' lengths of the rock, experienced a tide
only of one knot per hour.
This appears to be the same rock on which the ship Mandarin was lost the year
preceding, and it seems to have been known to English navigators at an early period.
In the Kent's journal, February, 1708, is the following remark: " After rounding the
Rabbit and Coney close, came no nearer Tree Island (probably Red Island) than 30
fathoms, being the lee side, and an ugly rock in the channel, which I have struck
upon formerly, is unknown to most persons who come this way : it is about 3 miles
East from the easternmost single tree on the Sandy Island," (Tree Island).
THE SULTAN SHOAL, on which the ship of this name grounded in 1789, is suitan shoai.
about two-thirds of a cable's length in diameter, of circular form, and the rocks on the
shoalest part are about 2 feet above the sea at low water spring tides. It is about 6
miles from Barn Island and 5 miles from Tree Island, and was examined by Captain
Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1829 ; he found it steep to, 7 tatiioms water
close to its verge, within a boat's length of the rocks, and from its centre the following
magnetic bearings were taken. South high peak on Great Carimon S. 62°11' W.;
Tanjong Boulus extreme N. 81° 27' W! ; Snake Island summit N. 28° 40' A\'. ;
North tree on Tree Island S. 6° 53' E. ; Coney S. 51° 35' E., just open clear of the
south extreme of Alligator Island ; Pulo Salook S. 70° 54' E. ; this is a small isle about
2 miles to the N.W. of Alligator Island. Do not shut in the Rabbit behind Alligator
Island, and you will pass to the southward of tiie shoal.
The soundings in the fair channel between Tree Island and Sultan Shoal are irre- soundings in
gular, from 15 to 25 fathoms ; generally 14 to 16 fathoms near Tree Island, deepening ^nj ^„ear"ti.e
to 22 and 24 fathoms in the north side of the channel, until the decrease is sudden to shoais.
* After rounding the Coney in the Gunjavar, in 1789, and hauling up W. N.W. with the wind at North, the
night became very dark, lost sight of Barn Island : wc thought the tide was setting fair through the channel to
the W. N.W., but having lost the lead, the first cast after preparing another was 5 fathoms ; the helm was in-
stantly put down, and the anchor let go when the ship came head to the wind, and found the tide setting South.
At day-light, we had not room to cast, until tiie wind shifted, being within a cable's length of the rocks pro-
jecting from the S. E. end of Tree Island.
f See this, and another rock, described, in the section, " Directions for Sailing through the Straits of Durian
and Phillips Channel."
VOL. II. 2 M
266
SINGAPORE STRAIT.
Alligator
Island ;
adjacent is-
lands and reefs.
Barn Island.
12 and 8 fathoms on the edge of Sultan Shoal. In that part of the channel comprised
betwixt Tree Island and Barn Island, the depths are mostly from 20 to 9 fathoms ; but
Anchorage. there are some banks of 6^, 7, 8, and 9 fathoms in the fair channel, proper for anchor-
age ; and on the west side of Barn Island, at three-quarters to 1^ miles off it, there is
good anchorage in 8 to 11 fathoms out of the stream, where ships may stop tide, or
anchor during the night.
ALLIGATOR ISLAND nearly joins to the N.AV. end of Barn Island, the space
between them affording no passage for ships ; it is about the same size and height as
Barn Island, of a sloping form, one end lower than the other : this island may be ap-
proached on the S.W. side occasionally to 10 or 11 fathoms, about three-quarters of a
mile, or 1 mile off. To the northward of it lies Pulo Bookura, eastward of Sultan
Shoal : and all these islands extending from Barn Island to the entrance of the Old Strait
and to St. John Island are united by reefs and dangers, mostly covered at high water.
BARN ISLAND,* bearing E. i N. 7 or 7i leagues from the north end of Little
Cariraon, and £. by N. ^ N. 5 miles from Tree Island, is moderately elevated, of a
square level aspect, covered with trees, and discernible at 5 leagues' distance ; it is
bold to approach on the west side to 9, 10, or 11 fathoms, about half or three-quarters
of a mile off, but the shore is rocky at low water, in landing with a boat.
Rabbit and THE RABBIT and CONEY are two small round islets, connected with the S.E. end
Coney. of Barn Island by a reef of rocks partly dry at low water ; the Coney, or outermost, is
the smallest, distant from the point of Barn Island rather less than half a mile. The
Rabbit is on with the centre of Barn Island bearing N. 53° W., the Coney is on with it
N. 35° W., and these islets are on with each other bearing N. 17° E.
From the top of the Coney, Captain Ross observed by theodolite the highest peak
of Great Carimon to bear S. 78° 25' W., Middle Peak of ditto S. 86° 5' W., Tree on
Tree Island S. 81°9'W., being nearly under the Middle Peak of Great Carimon,
Large Tree on Red Island S. 44° 37' W., Buffalo Rock N. 89°45'E., South point of
St, John Island N. 61° 43' E.
Directions. Ships keep near the Coney in passing ; but as a rocky spit, covered at high tide, pro-
jects from it to the southward nearly a cable's length, this should be avoided by keeping
about two cables' lengths from the islet, in 20 to 25 fathoms, but the soundings are not
very regular. In working here, do not stand far over towards the south shore, in case
of falling calm ; for the water is deep on that side, with a rocky bottom unfavourable
for anchorage, and some rocks, not visible at high water, lie about a mile ofi'the pro-
jecting part of that shore.
To sail from When in mid-channel between Tanjong Boulus and Little Carimon, in 17 to 20
to'uf ^'"'''"°" fathoms water, steer E. S. E. or S. E. as the prevailing wind and tide require, observing
°"^^' to bring the north point of Little Carimon \V. ^ S., or draw gradually the North Peak
of Great Carimon in one with the south point of Little Carimon, bearing about
W. by S. ^ S., which will carry you about 2 miles to the North of Tree Island. If
the wind is southerly, borrow towards it to 14 fathoms, about a mile distant, but no
nearer, which will favour you in rounding the Rabbit and Coney. The south end of
Barn Island kept E. ^ S. is the best guide in passing Tree Island with a southerly
wind; E. by S. is the mid-channel bearing; and in working, you may traverse with it
Called Square Island, or Passage Island, by the French.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. 267
bearing from E. iS. to E. S. E., in passing between Tree Island and Sultan Shoal.
Having passed Tree Island, a S. Easterly course should be steered, to round the Coney
at from 2 cables' lengths to 1 or \^ miles distant; or if the wind and tides are adverse,
or a dark night be coming on, anchor to the westward of Barn Island, out of the
strength of the tides.
MIDDLE ISLAND, lying on the north side the channel, rather nearer to St. Middle island.
John than to the Coney, is a low green island, witli others extending from it to the
N. Westward. A spit or prong projects a quarter of a mile from the S. E. end of
Middle Island ; and S. E. by E. from it three-quarters of a mile there is a reef of rocks. Reef near it.
always covered, except at very low tides, some points of the rocks being then just dis-
cernible, even with the surface of the water: St. John south point bears from it
N. (J7° 40' E., the Coney S. 58° 30' W., and the Buffalo S. 13^20' E., by compass.
There is deep water inside this reef from 14 to 7 fathoms, as found by Captain lioss ;
and the Carron and other ships, returning from China in 1804, after passing from St.
John towards the Coney in the night, got on the north side of it, having hauled over
too much in the north side of the channel. The reef being a steep coral wall on that
side, the Carron in rubbing against it received no damage. Some of the European
fleet from China, in 1809, also got within this reef during the night, and the ship Dart
struck on it, by standing too far over to the northward in working. The south point
of St. John kept E. N. E.^N., carries a ship clear of it to the southward. The north other reefs on
side of the channel, between Barn Island and Middle Island, is bounded mostly by oahe^channei.
shoals and coral reefs, partly dry at low water.
ST. JOHN (the south point, or the small islets close to, and appearing as part of that The channel
island) bears from the Coney E. 27° N., distant about 3 leagues. A direct line, or to°st! John"^^
straight course between them, is the fair track along the north side of the channel, in
irregular soundings mostly from 18 to 30 fathoms, sand and gravel, or rotten rock,
where you may anchor occasionally ; but the south side of the strait must be avoided,
the depths there being great, and the bottom rocky and dangerous. St. John is com-
posed of two moderately elevated sloping islands, extending North and South, separated
by a cove or narrow gut, with from 10 to 5 fathoms water in it, quite through ; they
appear as one island, with a regular convex outline, until close to their southern ex-
treme, when the gap between them is perceived. Close to the south point of the west-
ern island there is a small islet, which is steep to, having 18 to 25 fathoms within a
cable's length of it : and nearly close to the east side of the eastern island there is also
a round islet, having 18 and 20 fathoms water near it on the east side. This is called
Signal Island, as a signal post has been fixed here, since Singapore became a British
settlement. About a mile to the westward of the south |)oint of St. John there are
two small round islands, called the Sisters, with 20 or 25 fathoms water near them on
the S. E. side, but rocks join them to the northward.
THE DANGERS on the south side of the channel are, 1st, a reef of rocks about 3^ D.in(;erso,uhc
or 4 miles to the S. Eastward of the Coney, always covered, except at low water it is partly ^e"ci,annei°
visible. The Snow Forth anchored in 40 fathoms about half a mile from this reef, and
was obliged to cut from her anchor, it having hooked a rock.
BUFFALO ROCK, about 3 miles N.Eastward from the former, bears EastorE. 1° N. Buffeio Rock.
2 M 2
268 SINGAPORE STRAIT.
from the Coney 4^ or 5 miles,* from the south point of St. John S. 34° W. about the
same distance,'and from the centre of Middle Island S. 23° E., distant 3^ or 3 miles,
being nearly in mid-strait between that island and the southern shore, but nearer the
latter. It is a black rock, about the size of a long-boat, always seen above water, with
soundings of 30 and 40 fathoms near it to the southward, and close to it on the N.W.
side 13, 18, and 25 fathoms irregular. The ship Soliraan Shah, having got over on the
south side of the strait during light winds, was drifted by the tide close to the Buffalo
Rock, and let go her anclior in 60 fathoms, from which she cut when a breeze sprung
up, to keep clear of the danger. Betwixt the Buffalo Rock and the reef off the
S, E. end of Middle Island is the narrowest part of the strait ; it is prudent, in working
here, to keep nearest the north side of tlie channel, making short tacks, and not to
deepen above 30 or 34 fathoms towards the Buffalo Rock, and the south side of the
strait.
Two Rocky TWO LEDGES OF ROCKS, bearing S. 42° E. and S. 45° E. from the gap, or
Ledges. south poiut of St. John, distant 3 or 3^ miles, and about 2 leagues eastward from the
Buffalo Rock, lie near each other, and part of them is always visible above water.
There are overfalls, and shoal water near them to the N. E. and Eastward, which, with
the dangers before mentioned, make it prudent to avoid the south side of the strait,
until several miles to the eastward of St. John.f
Tides. THE TIDES set fair through the channel about E. N. E. and W. S. W. between
the Coney and St. John, frequently very rapid, with eddies on the springs. Their
velocity, when strongest, is from 4 to 4 ^ miles per hour, making it unpleasant to anchor
here in large ships when the weather is unsettled in the night, particularly if unac-
quainted. When the weather is favourable, and the tides moderate, you may conve-
niently anchor in any part of the north side the channel, betwixt the Coney and St.
John, should calms or other circumstances render it necessary to stop tide; but the
best anchorage is fronting Middle Island, upon a bank of rotten rock and coarse sand,
having soundings on it from 15 to 18 fathoms.
Directions on If when at auchoT during the night, the weather becomes squally, making a ship
P^'',')"/ ? jj*]''*^ sheer about with a strong tide, and part her cable, do not let go another anchor, ex-
cept it be dark ; but run as the wind permits, either round the Coney, and anchor to
the westward of Barn Island, out of the tide, or round the south point of St. John, and
anchor to the N. East of it, in 10 to 16 fathoms in Singapore Outer Road. With the
body of St. John bearing from W. S. W. to S.W. by VV., about 1^ or 2 miles off the
beach, the anchorage is good upon the mud bank, and here the tide is very weak.
Anchorage. In approaching this anchorage from the eastward, reduce sail in time, as the depths
decrease quickly from 30 and 26 to 16 fathoms on the bank, and in a dark night it
would be imprudent to anchor under 12 or 14 fathoms, for Rocky Flats stretch out
from the islands that lie between St. John and Singapore, with very irregular sound-
* These distances between the Coney and St. John, and contiguous dangers, are given from the cursory
survey of Captain Ross in 1827 ; but the relative distances were formerly thought somewhat greater than
marked on the chart of his survey.
■f It has been said, than an American ship passed along the south side of the strait, betwixt it and the Buf-
falo Rock, and inside these ledges to the S. E. of St. John, without discovering any other dangers ; but there
is reason to think, that the bottom is generally rocky on that side, and the tides very irregular, occasioned by
the various inlets among the islands which form it ; the passage along it ought not to be attempted. Even
were it surveyed, the northern channel, being wider, would still be found preferable.
SINGAPORE. 269
ings near their edges of 19 to 6 or 4 fathoms. On Barn Island, firewood may be pro- wood and
cured, and at a little distance from the shore of the gap that separates tlie two islands '''"^'^•
of St. John there is said to be a pond of good water on the easternmost island, over-
shaded by the trees.
Abreast of the south end of St. John, a ship ought not to anchor if it can be
avoided, for the water is deep, and the tides run in eddies with greater rapidity than
in any other part of the strait. The flood has been observed in both monsoons to run rides,
to the westward 10 or 12 hours at a time, or even 18 hours, strong and weak, alter-
nately ; at other times, the flood sets only 6 hours to the westward, and the ebb the
same length of time to the eastward ; but the tides throughout Singapore Strait are
seldom very regular. The perpendicular rise and fall is about 12 to 14 feet on the
springs.
THE CHANNEL betwixt the Coney and St. John should not be attempted in Tosaiithrougii
the night, if unacquainted, or the weather be not clear ; but in settled weather there from'^'Jhe"'^'
is little danger to be apprehended in passing through the channel with the tide, in a ConeytoSt.
handy middle-sized ship, even with a contrary wind, if a little acquainted, by attend-
ing to the following instructions.
If the night is not very dark, either Barn Island or St. John will be visible, and
when mid-way between them, both at the same time. As a guide, use the south end
of either of these islands, whichever is most conspicuous. The south end of Barn
Island W. f S. to W. by S. ^ S. are good bearings ; or the south end of St. John from
N. £. by E. to E. N. E. ^ N. ; but when near it, the south end of this island may
be brought from E. N. E. ^ N. to N.E. in working. The narrowest part of the channel
is when the Buffalo Rock bears S. by E. to South, betwixt it and the reef projecting
to the eastward of Middle Island ; and to know in the night when you are in this part
of the channel. Middle Island will in general be perceived nearer, and more distinctly
than the other islands on the north side the channel. When approaching the meridian
of the Bufl'alo Rock, observe, that it bears S.23'^ E. from the centre of Middle Island;
when, therefore, this island is bearing about N. N.W., keep the south end of St. John
E. N. E. 1 N. to E. N. E. | N., or the south end of Barn Island W. by S. ^ S., which
is a good bearing until about 2 miles to the eastward of Middle Island ; being then
past the reef on the north side the channel, and well to the eastward of the Buffalo
Rock, steer direct for the south point of St. John, or make short tacks if the wmd is
contrary, to pass it at a small distance.
SINGAPORE TOWN (the Flagstaff*), in lat. 1° 17' 22" N., Ion. 103° 51' E., Singapore,
is situated 4 miles directly North from the centre of St. John, or North a little west-
erly from Signal Island, and it is rapidly advancing in population and commercial
prosperity. This place is of great importance, both as a central depot for trade, and
a naval station for the protection of commerce in the event of a war, the harbour
being secure for numerous ships of any size, and its proximity to the China and Java
Seas enhances its value. Pulo Panjang, called also Bhiken-matte, or Long Island,
has a hill on it, and is separated from the south [)oint of Singapore by a narrow pas-
sage leading into the Little Strait of Singapore now called New Harbour, which
is fronted by Pulo Branni, a small round island ; and on the north side this island,
between it and Singapore Point, is the passage, having soundings from 5) to o fathoms.
Here ships might be easily protected by batteries erected on the contiguous hills or
* Captain Ross places it in lat. P 16' 15 " N., Ion. 103° 53' 15" E., or 33' 36" West from Pedro Branco.
270 SINGAPORE.
shores, which form this secure harbour, and docks may probably hereafter be con-
structed at this place, for affording repairs to shipping.
There is a cove to the N. Eastward of the town, about three-quarters of a mile in
length, and one quarter of a mile wide, with depths of 9 to (3 feet water, convenient
foi- proas or small vessels, the entrance of which is formed on the eastern side by Sandy
Point. Deep Water Point, distant about H miles East from the point last mentioned,
has 5 and 6 fathoms water near it, inside a narrow spit of 2^ fathoms, which fronts it
at the distance of rather more than half a mile.
The south coast of Singapore Island is level and woody, with two Red Cliffs,
rather obscure, one of which, being to the northward of the east point, is not visible
unless the entrance of the strait is well open : the opposite side of the strait is also
woody, but not so level as the former.
In the Outer Road of Singapore there is a narrow mud bank, extending about 2
miles, nearly JN. E. by E. and S.W. by VV., which might be alarming to strangers,
although the least water on it is 4f fathoms near its western extremity, with Signal
Island bearing S. by W. to S. S.W. about H to 2 miles; the east end of this mud,
bank bears South from Deep Water Point If miles, and has soundings near it all
round, from 7 or 8 to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms. About a quarter of a mile inside the
mud bank, the depths are 11 and 12 fathoms ; and a quarter of a mile farther in, 9 or
10 fathoms, about 1^ miles' distance from Singapore Town, and the same from Sandy
Point, which is the proper anchorage in the road or harbour. Under 8 or 7 fathoms,
the water shoals suddenly to S^ fathoms, about a mile off" Sandy Point, bearing about
North, and Singapore Town W. by N. ^ N., which is a convenient anchorage for
small vessels. But large ships must be careful not to run too far in, for several have
grounded where the bank is steep, on the western side of the harbour. The Bridge-
water, July 29th, 1827, anchored in 9 fathoms, and with 50 fathoms of cable veered
out, had only 4^ fathoms at low water ; she hove in cable to 38 fathoms, had then
5^ fathoms at low water, and 8 fathoms at high water ; making the perpendicular rise
and fall of tide 15 feet on the springs, and it may be sometimes more. The bearings
from her anchorage were. Flagstaff" on the hill W. N.W., Johore Hill E. N. E.,
Signal Island, the small island" off" St. John, S. ,} W. In August, 1833, H.M.S.
Curacoa found 13 feet to be the greatest rise and fall during spring tides.
Sailing To sail into Singapore Road, in coming from the westward, after having passed
Directions. j^gg,. ^^ gj Jq|^j^ j^jj^j Signal Island, steer IS. by E. or North, as the wind or tide may
require, and you will shoal to 5, or probably 4^ fathoms on the mud bank, and after-
Avards deepen to 11 or 12 fathoms ; continue the same course till in 10 or 9 ftithoms,
and anchor in these depths in a large ship, as the bank is steep ; but a small ship may
conveniently anchor in 7 or 6 fathoms, with the FlagstaflTon the hill at the back of the
town about W. N.W., Signal Island about S. by W., and Deep Water Point N. E.,
off" shore about 1|^ miles. If working into the road, do not borrow towards the islands
between St. John and Singapore, nearer than to bring Signal Island to bear South,
or S. ^ E. at farthest. It is proposed to erect a lighthouse at Singapore, as a guide
for shfps in the night when entering the road, as they are liable to mistake the vaiious
lights of the town.
On the west side the anchorage of Singapore Road, the 7iarrow passage leading into
Little Strait, or New Harbour, is used by the trading proas; Captain Robert Scott,
who passed through it in a Buggess proa, in 1797, gives the following directions for it ;
it is, however, too narrow for large ships.
If you intend to proceed through the Little Strait within St. John, steer into the bight
SINGAPORE.
271
towards Singapore, till you open the mouth of the strait, which is very narrow, but deep ;
having entered it, keep in mid-channel till through, then steer for a small sandy island
with a tree on it, which leave on your left hand about half a mile ; afterwards keep
near the starboard shore till you open the mouth of the narrow strait leading into the
Old Strait of Singapore, and keep nearly in mid-channel, as both sides are fronted by
some sunken rocks. After getting in, there are 5 and 6 fathoms all through the strait ;
and when clear out, you will see the north part of Little Carimon bearing W. by S. ;
steer then about W. S.W. ^ S., till past Tanjong Boulus, and afterwards steer for Pulo
Pisang.
NEW HARBOUR was surveyed by Captain Ross in 1827, with the proximate New Harbour.
channels, and the following description is given along with the chart of his survey.*
Between the south point of Singapore Island and the two contiguous islands there is a
passage or Little Strait, called by the Malays, Salat Battoo Baloo, also Selat Sinki,
from a rock on the north side of its western entrance, resembling a vessel under sail.
This strait extends 2 miles nearly East and West, and is from 350 to 450 yards in
breadth, with depths from 5 to 7 fathoms, and is free from danger, excepting a small
reef that projects off the west end of the easternmost island. It will be found a secure
anchorage for many ships of large size, distant only If miles from the town of Singa-
pore. The western entrance, although only 300 yards across from point to point, is
safe, having 5 or 6 fathoms close to either point, and 11 or 12 fathoms in mid-channel.
The eastern entrance is rendered intricate by a rock in mid-channel, visible at low
spring tides, and on either side of it there is a narrow passage ; in the northern one
the depths are 9 and 10 fathoms ; and in the southern one 4^ to 5 fathoms. The rock
might be distinctly marked by fishing stakes placed around ; and two or three warping
buoys laid down would facilitate the passage of ships through this narrow strait ; but
those of large size would probably have to enter by the western channel.
Coming from the westward, there are two passages leading to the new harbour, one to Directions.
the southward of the Sultan Shoal, and to the north of Pulo Salook ; the other to the
southward of the Rabbit and Coney, or, if coming from the eastward, to the southward
of St. John Island ; then between Middle Island and the two small islands that lie to the
westward of St. John. If the western passage be adopted, give Sultan Shoal a proper
berth, by steering for Pulo Salook bearing about East, till past the shoal, and when that
island bears a little to the westward of South, haul to the northward until U miles from it,
before you steer to the eastward, to avoid a reef dry at three-quarters ebb, the north
point of which bears about N. E. by N. 1^ miles from Pulo Salook, and the N.W. tree
on Tree Island just touching the west point of Salook leads clear of, but near to the
western part of the reef. Having passed the north point of this reef, steer about East
towards the group of islands on the south side the passage, the first of which islands,
being 2f miles E. N. Eastward from Pulo Salook, has a reef projecting a quarter of a
mile from it ; but this island must nevertheless be passed within half or three-quarters
of a mile di.stance at farthest ; for one mile North of it lies the south extreme of a reef,
and another reef and sand lies three-quarters of a mile to the East and N. E. of the
last-mentioned reef, which sand dries at three-quarters ebb. Tlie channel between
these reefs on the north side, and the islands on the opposite side, is about three-quar-
ters of a mile wide, with 13 and 14 fathoms water in mid-channel, and 10 or 9 fathoms
close to the edges of the reefs on either side. When the N.W. end of the large island,
which is the northernmost of the group, and has been named Ereshwater Island, bears
• Sold by Messrs, Allen and Co., 7, Leadenhall Street.
272
SINGAPORE.
Tides.
South, you are clear to the eastward of the reefs on the north side the passage ; and
here tlie channel becomes wide, and a ship may work nearly from side to side, to the
western entrance of New Harbour.
If the Southern Passage between Middle Island and the Sisters (two small islands
to the west of St. John) be adopted in proceeding towards New Harbour, give a proper
berth to the detached reef that lies off the S. E. end of Middle Island, by opening well
out from its eastern end the small islet that lies half a mile N.W. :|; N. from its
northern extremity ; or by keeping open from the eastern side of Middle Island the
western extreme of Freshwater Island bearing about W. N.W. | N., until to the north-
ward of the detached reef; then steer about N. by W. for the western entrance of New
Harbour, which bears N. by E. from Middle Island 3\ miles, observing to guard
against a reef tiiat bears N. N.W. from the Sisters three-quarters of a mile, wiiich is
the only known danger on the eastern side of this passage ; the islands bounding its
western side may be approached within half a mile, or rather less, if necessary. The
soundings close to tlie coral reefs that line the east side of Middle Island, the islet to
the N.W. of it, and the N. Eastern side of Freshwater Island, are from to J) or 10
fathoms, and the same close to the reef N. N.W. of the Sisters ; but in the fair channel
they are usually irregular from 11 to 17, and in some places there are 7 or 8 fathoms,
in other parts 19 or 20 fathoms, generally hard bottom. The tides are irregular in the
above described passage among the islands, running about 2 miles per hour during the
springs, the rise then about 9 or 10 feet. In Singapore Road it is high water at 9 hours
on full and change of moon.
Directions
for sailing
eastward.
IJoolang Bay.
FROM THE SOUTH END of St. John Island, Pedra Branca bears E. by N. i N.,
distant 11 or 12 leagues, and until several miles past St. John, the south side of the
strait must be avoided, on account of the ledges of rocks and overfalls already men-
tioned ; but the north side is safe to approach to 12 or 10 fathoms, betwixt St. John
and the Red Cliffs near the east end of Singapore Island, for the depths along the
south side this island decrease pretty regularly from 36 or 40 fathoms in mid-strait, to
12 or 10 fathoms within a mile of the shore, all good anchoring ground. The depths in
mid-strait are generally between 32 and 40 fathoms from St. John, until nearly abreast
the Red Cliffs, and then decrease to 20 or 18 fathoms: they are irregular from 12 or
16 to 30 fathoms near Battam N.E. point,* which is the western entrance point of
Rhio Strait, and bears E. | S.f fi'om the south end of St. John, distant about 4
leagues.
BOOLANG BAY, in Battam Island, or Pulo Battaur, situated about 13 or 14
miles E. S. E. from Singapore, affords safe anchorage, and has lately been frequented
by American ships ; here they receive cargoes, and trade with Singapore, in order to
evade the expenses that would be incurred by going direct to the latter port, as the
former place is out of the limit of the British possessions.
The southern shore, adjacent to Battam N. E. jjoint, is safe to approach within 2
or 3 miles, but in mid-strait is the best track with a foir wind, or even in working, to
benefit by the strength of the tide, when it is favourable. If in deep water, and losing
* H. M. S. Curacoa, June 9th, 1833, anchored in 37 fathoms hard bottom at midnight, about 2 miles from
the Battam shore, not expecting to find such deep water. At day-light, the apparent N. E. point of Battam
bore S.60°W., a small isle near it S. 7P W., Barbucit Hill N. 25^ E., Johore Hill N. 10= W., Bintang Hill
summit S. 62= E., and the Strait of Rhio well open.
f E. i N. by the Admiralty Chart.
SINGAPORE OLD STRAIT. — JOHORE. 273
ground, haul in towards the Singapore side, and anchor in lo to 18 or 20 fathoms.
When the east part of the Red Clifls, or the east end of Singapore Island, is brought to
bear about N. by W., the north side of the strait ought not to be approached nearer
tlian 2 leagues, but the mid-channel track ought to be preserved in passing Johore
Shoal, off the entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore.
In entering the OLD STRAIT OF SINGAPORE from the eastward, observe Singapore o],i
that the passage lies between the east point of Singapore, called Point Francklin, and *^"''"'-
Pulo Ubin; care must be taken to avoid the reefs that project nearly a mile off the
east end of the latter in a S. E. direction, rendering the passage narrow and intricate ;
the soundings are irregular, with a sudden decrease of depth in the entrance from 9 or
8 to 5 and 4 fathoms, and close to the shoal not more than 3 fathoms. Point Franck-
lin is low, with a white sandy beach, and there is said to be a dangerous shoal betwixt
it and the large Red Cliffs. The Old Strait is from 2 to 1^ miles wide, and in enter-
ing, a mid-channel track is the best, with proper attention to the lead : within Point
Francklin there are three rocks, and a small village, and the north side of Pulo Ubin
is lined by mud and sand-banks. Several small rivers empty themselves into the
Old Strait, and in sailing through, the small islands contiguous to Singapore should
not be approached too closely. The soundings are irregular in passing Maljho River,
and about mid-channel lies a reef of rocks; here the strait becomes much contracted,
and abreast of Pulo Borroa, where the reef is situated, it is steep to, from 10 fathoms,
with deep water in the channel, and the bottom is red clay ; this is the narrowest part
of the strait. The soundings again become regular, and the channel takes a S. S. W.
direction to the entrance of the strait, which is the channel formed between Singapore
and Snake Island, being not more than half a mile wide, on account of the reef wliich
fronts the Singapore shore. The soundings decrease to 3^ fathoms, deepening again
to 5, 0, and 7 fathoms in passing Snake Island, and to 12 and 16 fathoms, mud, farther
out. The tides are strong in the Old Strait, and rise about 13 feet: fresh water may
be got in several of the rivers.
JOHORE RIVER, the entrance of which is formed between Point Francklin and johore River.
the small island, lying a mile N.W. from Pulo Tokum, is more than half a mile wide,
with 12 to 8^ fathoms water; a shoal of sand extends off the west end of Pulo Tokum,
and appears to join the small island that forms the entrance of the river. Pulo Ubin
lies in the entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore, and to the west of Pulo Tokum,
distant about 1^ miles. In entering Johore River, care is required to avoid an exten-
sive sand-bank on the larboard side of the river, as the water shoals very suddenly to
2f fathoms on its outer edge : an E. N. E. cour.se will carry a ship in mid-channel, in
soundings of 10 to 5^ fathoms, which should be carefully attended to, the lead being
the only guide in approaching the village on the eastern bank of the river. Steer for
the village, until the whole of the river is open, preserving a mid-channel track, where
the soundings are regular over a mud bottom, from 7 to 5 and 4 fathoms. About
2 miles above the first point, Batto Balloo, there is a small village, and (5 miles
farther, Johore Town, built with bamboo and mud, where good water may be pro-
cured, but no other article. The river is from 2 to 1-^ miles wide; rise of tide from 8
to 10 feet. In sailing up to the town, the souudings were generally from (J to 8
fathoms ; and from 5^ to 4^ fathoms above the town.
JOHORE SHOAL is composed of hard sand, having 2J fathoms on its shoalest johorc simai.
VOL. II. 2 N
274
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — JOHORE.
part at low water, 3 ant] 3^ fathoms on its southern extremity, and from 12 to 14 or
15 fathoms very near to it, on the south, east, and west sides. The south end of St.
John bears from its eastern extremity S. W. by W. ^ VV., Johore Hill N. N. E., South
Cape of Johore E. by N. ^ N., and it is 3 or 4 miles distant from Johore Point, and
4 or 4^ miles distant from the east point of Singapore Island, directly fronting the
entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore. A small hill on the east side of tiiis strait, to
the northward of Johore Hill, called False Johore Hill, bears North from the east end
of the shoal, and this small hill is in one with the east point of Singapore Island bear-
Directions, ing N. 38° E. As the water shoals quickly from 17 or 18 to 15, 12, then 4 fathoms
on its eastern extreme, do not borrow under 10 or 17 fathoms towards it, but keep
about mid-strait in the night, attending to the lead if your distance from either shore
is not distinctly perceived. In day-light, the Island St. John kept W. by S. is a fair
bearing in passing the shoal, and also in passing through the strait to the eastward:
but if the south end of St. John is kept to the westward of S. G5° W., you will
pass clear of the shoal. Captain W. Owen examined this shoal in H. M. brig Sea-
riovver, in April and September, 1807, and found it to extend from the easternmost
Red Cliffs of Singapore Island in a long flat spit to the eastward, with 2^ fathoms on
it at low water, and no apparent passage between it and that island, except for small
vessels, but the water shoals gradually towards its western part. Between the east
end of the shoal and Johore Ijluff point there is a safe channel, 2 or 2^ miles wide,
leading into the Old Strait of Singapore and Johore River, with depths of 8 to 12
fathoms, decreasing to 5 and 4|- fathoms near the shore, and to 6 fathoms near the
north side of the shoal. To avoid Johore Shoal in coming from the eastward, come
no nearer to the north shore than 17 fathoms after Johore Hill bears North, or Bar-
bucit Hill N. E. | E.* The breadth of the channel from Johore Shoal to Battam
N. E. point, nearly opposite to it, on the south shore, is about G miles, and the sound-
ings between them are mostly from 20 to 24 fathoms in the fair track, decreasing
towards the edge of the shoal, and also near the south shore to the westward of the
point ; but to the N. Eastward of this point, off the entrance of Rhio Strait, there are
30 and 34 fathoms in some places. Close to Battam N. E. point there is a small
island, with rocks contiguous to it.
Johore Hill,
and adjacent
coast.
JOHORE HILL is of a regular oblong sloping form, covered with trees, situated
a little inland from the bluff, called Johore Point, which forms the east side the en-
trance of the Old Strait of Singapore ; a little inside of which, the river and town of
Johore is situated, formerly a place of considerable trade, but now unfrequented. Be-
twixt the east point of Singapore Island and Johore Shoal the passage is not safe for
ships of large size, as the shoal is thought to be joined to the point by a spit of 2 and 2f
fathoms, which Captain Court passed over in a small vessel.
a!"!"'" BARBUCIT HILL, in lat. 1° 24^' N., bearing from Pedra Branca W. by N. i N.,
distant 14^^- miles, is a regular pyramid rising from the low land, about 2^ leagues
E. N. Eastward from Johore Hill; and being only about 5 miles inland from Romania
* The Kent, in February, 1708, from Point Romania, kept in 10, 12, and 13 fathoms to Johore Point, and
in steering out to the southward got 4 fathoms on Johore Shoal, and the boat near the ship had 3 and 2^
fathoms, coral rocks. Her journal has the following remark : " To avoid this dangerous shoal, let no one come
nearer the Bluff White Sandy Point (Red Cliffs) that forms the west side of the entrance into Johore than 12
fathoms, which is about 5 miles offshore." In the London's journal, June 26th, 1701), it is stated, that Johore
Shoal projects three-fourths of the strait's breadth from the western shore. This ship lay about a month at
Johore, taking in pepper.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — ROMANIA ISLANDS. 275
Point, it is used as a mark in enteiing the strait. About mid-way between Johore
Point and Barbucit Hill, the land of Johore projects Airthest to the southward, and is
called the South Cape; it bears nearly E. by S. from Johore Point, and West from
Pedra Branca ; the land between it and Johore Point forms a bay, with shoal water in
it, but the depths decrease gradually. There is an indifl'erent watering place in this
bay, near the second point to the westward of the South Cape, inside a low black rock,
lying near the shore.
POINT ROMANIA, in lat. 1° 22^' N., distant about 5 miles to the E. N. E. of the Poim
South Cape, forms the S. E. extreme of the Malay Peninsula, and, with the circumja- Romania.
cent coast, is level land, covered with trees. Close to Point Romania on the westside,
lies Romania River, having 2 or ^ feet water at its narrow entrance, at low tide; it is
navigable by boats 2 or 3 miles inland. Although nothing is found here but timber, watering
tish, and reptiles, water may be procured with ease in this river, during the N. E. mon- p'**"^*
soon ; but there are several better and more convenient watering places, in the sandy
bays betwixt Point Romania and a small round island called Watering Island, about
.'} miles to the westward, directly under Barbucit Hill. Inside this island there is an
excellent stream upon the main, where fresh water may be got with facility in either
monsoon ; but, in the N. E. monsoon, the streams betwixt it and Point Romania are
more convenient. In the eastern extremity of the long sandy bay, which contains
Watering Island at its western part, there is a large rivulet, having shoal water pro-
jecting a considerable way out from the entrance, with rocks containing beds of excel-
lent oysters.
The whole of the coast of Johore, from Johore Point to Point Romania, may be ap-
proached by the lead ; the water shoals quickly from 25 to 15, 11, and 10 fathoms, on
the edge of the bank that fronts it, then more gradually to 4 fathoms, and there is
thought to be no danger at the distance of half a mile from the shore. Some spots lie
near the shore betwixt Johore Point and Point Romania, one of which has 7 fathoms
on it, and 13 fathoms around ; but there is said to be no less water on any of these
detached spots.
rocks.
THE ROMANIA ISLANDS, fronting the point of this name, are six in number ; Romnma
the westernmost or largest one is composed of two islands very near each other, joined '*'»'»'*"'"'
by a reef. The Northernmost and S. Easternmost are two barren rocks, but the others
are covered with trees ; they extend about 2J miles N. E. and S.W ., the largest being
within a mile of the point, and the nearest to it. There is a rock, about 1 2 feet above
water, near the south point of South Island, and a reef of straggling rocks extending to
the eastward, which are bold to approach on the south side : there is also a rocky patch
with 3|^ fathoms on it, about \^ miles South from Point Romania, and the same dis-
tance S. S.W. from the S.W. or largest island.
The Whale's Crown, a rock scarcely visible at high tide, lies three-quarters of a mile,
or more, to the eastward of South Reef, having 7 fathoms close to it, and 8 or 9 fathoms
around. There is a shoal S.W. from the northernmost islet about a cable's length ; the
other rocks amongst these islands are mostly above water, and there are 7 fathoms be-
tween South Reef and the islands ; there is also deep water around the large island,
and betwixt it and the others, with soft bottom, excepting near the rocks. Soutli Reef
extends N. E. and S.W. about three cables' lengths ; from its S.W. point, tlie bluff,
next to Point Romania bears N. by W. f W., Barbucit Hill on with the North Hump
2 N 2
276
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — INNER CHANNELS.
Little IiintT
Clmnnel.
Cuntii;uuus
foast.
Great Inner
Channel.
of the Large Island W. by N. | N., and the point of Watering Island West, having on
it a remarkable green tree.
LITTLE INNER CHANNEL, formed between Point Romania and the islands,
may be considered safe for small vessels with a leading wind, and forms a good har-
bour in the South-west monsoon, the bottom being all soft. Capt. Owen, in II. INI. brig
Seaflower, found no less water than .5 fathoms in they^aV way of the northern part of the
channel, which appeared clear, and of width sufficient for small ships; other naviga-
tors have found A\ or 4j fathoms at low water, in some places. Point Romania is bold
to approach, having 4 fathoms within 30 yards of it, 7 fathoms a little farther out,
deepening to 12 fathoms towards the largest island, which is rather more than half a
mile distant from the point. A ship entering the channel from the southward, or leaving
it, may borrow towards South Reef and the largest island, where the depths are greater
than near the main ; and the best track betwixt it and the other islands is about mid-
channel, or rather nearer to the islands, where the depths are generally from 5 to 9
fathoms.
There is an excellent watering river close round the Rocky Point, about 4 cables'
lengths to the northward of Point Romania ; the country abounds with various kinds
of timber, wild elephants, buffaloes, moose-deer, hogs, guanas, monkeys, peacocks, &c.,
with oysters upon the rocks ; but it is not inhabited hereabout. Near Romania River
there is a considerable extent of forest, which, being without much underwood, is easily
penetrated ; but in other parts the woods are generally impervious.
GREAT INNER CHANNEL, bounded on the west side by the Soutli Reef, the
Whale's Crown, and a Sunken Rock about three-quarters of a mile to the N. E. of the
latter, and bounded to the eastward by the southern extremity of Romania Outer Reef,
is about 2| miles wide between these dangers ; it was little known to Europeans, until
Captain Ross surveyed these channels and dangers in 1818, although formerly used by
Chinese junks and coasting vessels.
This channel is safe in day-light, by keeping U miles, at least, to the eastward of
Romania Islands, to give a berth to the dangers near them ; and not increasing the
distance from the islands above 3 or 3|; miles, to avoid the S.W. extremity of the Outer
Reef. The best track is to keep in mid-channel, about 2 miles from the islands, until
the northernmost island bears W. S.W., then the channel is clear from the Outer Reef
to the coast, and about 5 miles wide. The soundings throughout this channel, being
generally uneven, do not answer as a guide ; but they are usually from 7 or 8 to 10 or
] 1 fathoms, both in mid-channel, and near the dangers on either side, excepting a patcli
of 5 fathoms about a mile W. by N. from the S.W. end of the Outer Reef, and bearing
E. by N. from the northernmost island Ih miles.
If the wind be adverse when proceeding through the southern part of this channel,
do not approach the Outer Reef nearer than to bring Pedra Branca S. E., or on the
transit line l)etween it and False Barbucit Hill ; nor approach Romania Islands and
their adjoining dangers nearer than to bring Pedra Branca E. S. E. ^ S., or on a transit
line* between False Bintang Hill and the North Point of Romania, which is situated
about 4 miles to the northward of True Point Romania.
* My large Plan of these dangers and the soundings around them, in the entrance of Singapore Strait, exhi-
bits these transit lines or marks for the channel.
maijia
Reef.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — ROMANIA REEF. 277
ROMANIA OUTER REEF is formed of detached spits of sand and patches of Uo
coral rocii, on which the least water appears to be 2| fathoms; there are gaj)s of deep ""'"
water, from 6 to 10 fathoms, betwixt some of them.
The patch of the outer reef nearest to Pedra Branca bears N.W. by N. from it 4^
to 4f miles, and is steep to, and dangerous, having on it 18 feet rocks. On this patch,
the Anna struck in December, 1800: with the wind N. Westerly, rounding the edge
of the reef very close, in soundings from 12 to 9, and once 7 fathoms, a strong ebb tide
running to the northward, horsed us amongst the eddies upon the reef, and we had
several casts of 7 fothoms. The outer edge of it, where the ship touched the rocks in
hauling off the reef, although drawing only 19 feet water, formed a steep wall, whicli
was very conspicuous by the deep blue water outside, and the white discoloured water
"within. She took a considerable careen by the fresh wind and strong tide, and grazed
over the rocks in 12 fathoms the first cast, Pedra Branca bearing then S. S. E. | E.
about 4f miles, southern island off Point Romania W. S.W. ^ S., south point of the
largest island W. by S. i S., and its southernmost hump in one with the South Cape
or westernmost point of Romania. A few cables' lengtlis to the southward of this dan-
gerous patch the depth increases to W and 17 fathoms, and it is thought to be the
S. Westernmost danger of the outer reef
To the N. Eastward of the patch last mentioned there are several others, with 3 and
3^ fathoms on them : the outermost of these, among which II. M. S. Panther got em-
barrassed, are extensive, and their southern part bears from Pedra Branca N. by W.^ W.
to N. IV.W., distant 5 or 5^ miles; they stretch from thence to the northward 1 or H
miles, and have 9 and 10 fathoms close to them on the East and S. E. sides. Another
.spit, to theN. Westward of these, bears N. N.W. from Pedra Branca, and E. by N.
from Barbucit Hill ; between them, the ship General Baird passed, in (J, 8, and 10
fathoms water.
The northernmost patch of Romania outer reef is in lat. l°3r N., distant from the
coast abreast about 10 miles; from Bintang Hill it bears N. 5° W., from Pedra Branca
N. 7° E., distant 11 miles, and about the same distance from the northernmost island
off Point Romania ; from the largest of the Romania Islands it bears N. 50^ E., from
Barbucit Hill N. 63° E., and about E. ^ N. from False Barbucit Hill. There is pro-
bably no danger on this patch, although the Seatlower had overfalls of and 7 fatlioms,
hard sand, on it; but the Hornby shoaled suddenly from 13 to 10, 7, 5, and 4^
fathoms upon it, in coming from the northward, and deepened in imuling out to the
eastward, as fast as the lead could be hove, to 5, 7, 10, 1 1, 12, 13, and 14 fathoms; it
ought, therefore, to be avoided, as 4^ fathoms is too little water for a large ship when
there is much swell. Betwixt this northernmost patch of tiie reef and tlie opposite
coast there is no danger, the deptiis inside of it being generally from 10 to lo fathoms;
and there seems to be a channel of deep water to the S.W. and Southward, between
it and the other more connected patches of the reef. Along the inner edge of the
outer reef the soundings are mostly 7 or 8 fathoms, and 9, 10, or 11 fatlioms about
half a mile from it, and from thence well over towards the coast nearly the same depths,
excepting that 7 or 8 fathoms are got in some places.
FALSE BARBUCIT HILL, in lat. 1° 30' N., is a low sloping hill near the sea, i,a,se i;a,bu
appearing like a tope of trees a little more elevated than the adjacent coast, which is "'"■
all rather low and woody to the northward of Barbucit Hill. The l\ilse Hill bears
from Pedra Branca N.W., and being discernible much sooner than the other, during
278
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — PEDRA BRANCA. — BINTANG.
hazy weather, answers as a guide in coming- from the northward towards the northern
extremity of the outer reef.
Pedra Branca.
Adjacent
dangers.
PEDRA BRANCA, or White Rock, lying in the middle of the entrance of Sin-
gapore Strait, is in lat. 1° 20' N., Ion. 104° 25^' E., or 2° lOJ' E., from Malacca, and 9
miles West from Pulo Aor, by mean of many chronometers:* from the largest i.sland
oft' Point Romania, it bears E. by S. 4 S., distant about 8 miles, the same di.stance from
the shore of Bintang, and is in one with the centre of Bintang Hill bearing S. by E. ^E.
It is small, of white appearance, by birds" dung, and not much elevated at high tide,
but may be seen 9 or 10 miles from the quarter-deck of a large ship, being just visible
when Point Romania bears North, distant 3 or 4 miles ; in the night, it cannot be
discerned until close to. On the north and N.W. sides, Pedra Branca is steep to,
having soundings of 17 fathoms close to the rock, and 30 to 36 fathoms near it, de-
creasing to 10 and 17 fathoms to the northward, close to the edge of Romania Reef.
To the southward it is dangerous to approach, on account of two ledges of rocks,
called the S. E. Rocks, lying near to each other, about a mile or more to the S. S. East-
ward off" it, and which are very little above the surface at high water. But the S.W.
Rocks are the principal dangers, when proceeding through the South Channel ; they
consist of three pointed rocks very little detached from each other, with 8 and 9 fathoms
close to, and betwixt them, 16 or 17 fathoms at a very small distance in the stream of
them. They bear from Barbucit Hill S. E. by E. f E., from PedraBranca S. by W. ^ W.,
distant about 2^ miles, are not visible until the ebb has been made some time, and
they are nearly covered before the stream of flood begins to run ; from 1 6 and 17 fathoms
close to this danger, the depths are rather irregular to 9 or 8 fathoms, within 2 miles
of the Bintang shore.
Bintang
Hill
outer reef of
S. about 6
BintHngHiii. BINTANG HILL, in lat. 1° 5' N., Ion. 104° 29' E., bearing S. by E. i E. from
Pedra Branca, distant about 5^ leagues, may be seen in clear weather 14 leagues, and
answers as a mark in approaching the entrance of the strait from northward. When
viewed from that direction, it forms a saddle, and adjoining to it, on the north side,
there is a small conical hill called False Bintang Hill, or Little Hill, the summit of
which is central with the saddle of the large hill bearing S. 8° E. When the centre
of the Saddle bears South (true), the summit of the Little Hill is just open with
the western shoulder of the Large Hill, and this mark or bearing of
is a safe guide to carry a ship to the eastward of, but pretty near, the
Romania.
The north side of Bintang Island extends nearly E. ^ N. and W. ^
leagues, forming a concavity in the middle of this space ; and, like most of the other
land bounding the Strait of Singapore, it is covered with trees, and, excepting the hills
inland, not much elevated. About a mile from the shore, N. Eastward of the point
that bounds Rhio Strait on the east side, there is a small island, with other rocks or
islets near the shore, which should not be approached too closely, as a patch, with only
2 fathoms on it, lies 1^ miles oft" the shore of Bintang, and bears S. by W. ^ W. from
Pedra Branca : nor should the Bintang shore be borrowed on, in general, under 10 or
* By many chronometric admeasurements, in different voyages to China, corresponding within a mile of each
other, I made it in this longitude ; but Captain Ross made it only 7] miles West from the East Peak of Pulo
Aor. Captain Keith Forbes landed on the S. E.part of Pedra Branca, April 13th, 1813, and had 17 fathoms
close to it, which was covered with oysters at the water's edge, from whence a small boat might be filled in an
hour.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — EASTERN BANK. 279
9 fathoms, when ships are proceeding through the South Channel, for the soundings
near it are often irregular, and do not afford a sufficient guide.
Bintang is the largest island on the south side of Singapore Strait ; Pulo Battam, on
the west side of Rhio Strait, is also of considerable size, and from it a chain of islands,
separated by narrow guts, extends westward nearly opposite the Rabbit and Coney.
THE EASTERN BANK extends from the N. E. part of Bintang about North Easter.. Bank.
and N. by VV. 7 leagues, having soundings upon it generally from 10 or 11 to 13 and
14 fathoms. To the distance of 2 or 3 leagues from the N. E. part of Bintang, the
depths on it are 10 to 12 fathoms ; East from Pedra Branca about 2 leagues they are
irregular, 16 or 18 fathoms in some places, and 11, 12, to 14 fathoms within 1 or 2
miles of that rock on the east side. To the E. N. E. and N. E. of Pedra Branca,
about 3 or 4 leagues, the soundings are generally pretty regular, 13 to 14^ fathoms,
sand and gravel: and in standing off the bank to the eastward they gradually increase
to 20 fathoms, at 2 or 3 leagues' distance. On the northern part of the Eastern Bank,
in lat. 1° 32' N., there is a shoal patch, the least water on it 8 fathoms, hard bottom, Patct. ui
to 10 and 11 fiithoms the general depth. It is of small extent; Bintan-i" Hdl bears ^f^t''""i^-
from it S. ^ W., Barbucit^Hill about W. S.W., False Barbucit Hill W. | S., and the
northernmost patch of Romania outer reef W. ^ S. or W. by S., distant 4 or 5 miles.
Ships getting soundings of 8 to 10 fathoms on this patch of the Eastern Bank, during
iiazy weather, sometimes think they are on the northern patch of Romania outer reef,
and then haul more to the eastward, which renders them liable to fall to leeward of the
strait.
THE SOUNDINGS are mostly 13 to 15 fathoms, a little irregular in some soui.di.igs ..ear
parts, to the distance of 4 or 5 miles northward from the northernmost patch of and"i^,"ti*e^"/"
Romania outer reef, and from the patch of the Eastern Bank ; and they continue trance of ti.e
nearly the same until within 3 or 4 miles of the coast: farther to the northward, the *'""'
depths increase gradually towards Pulo Aor, with a regular decrease contiguous to the
main land.
Between the shoal patch of the Eastern Bank and the northernmost patch of the
reef the soundings are a little irregidar, from 13 to 17 fathoms. Farther to the south-
ward, between the Eastern Bank and the reef, the water deepens to 19, 20, and 22
fathoms ; and when Pedra Branca is approached, soundings of 32 to 36 fathoms are
found near it to the northward and north-westward, decreasing in the north side of
the channel to 17 or 16 fathoms, sand and gravel, near the southern patches of Ro-
mania Reef. To the south-westward and westward of Pedra Branca, the soundings
near it are 34 to 28 fathoms ; but there are some small banks W. by S. and W. by S. ^ S.
about 5 miles from it, with 10 to 15 fathoms water on them, and 20 to 30 fathoms
around. Some ships, when attempting to pass out of the strait between Pedra Branca
and that reef in the night, have been in great danger, by getting shoal soundings in
this position, and mistaking them for the soundings on the edge of Romania Reef.
F'rom Romania Islands westward the strait is clear to Johore Shoal, and the sound-
ings are 18 to 25 fathoms in the fair track, rather more than mid-strait towards the
northern shore, decreasing regularly to the latter. In mid-strait the de|)ths are from
26 to 32 fathoms, decreasing to either side ; and the only danger to be avoided in mak-
ing long tacks is the Pan Shoal, within the entrance of Rhio Strait, which has been
described in the directions for sailing througli that strait; but it is out of the direct
track of ships proceeding through the Strait of Singapore.
280 SINGAPORE STRAIT. — TIDES. — NORTH CHANNEL.
Tides. THE TIDES near Pedra Branca, and contiguous to the Romania reefs, are fre-
quently very irreiiular, in time, velocity, and direction. In the strength of the North-
east Monsoon, \vhen the current runs to the S. S. Eastward from Pulo Aor across tlie
equator, the flood sometimes runs into the entrance of the strait to the south-westward,
10 or 12 hours at a time; but the ebb generally runs with the greatest velocity, and
of longest duration, iu both seasons, particularly in the South-west Monsoon. About
the full and change of moon, the ebb often sets out strong during the night, for 10 or
12 hours together, but not very rapidly in the first and latter part: at other times it is
changeable, and not strong. Betwixt Pedra Branca and the edge of Romania Reef
the strength of the ebb runs generally about N. E. by N., when regular, and the flood
in the opposite direction ; but I Iiave sometimes observed the tide to set all round the
compass during the night, and once N. N.W. 2 miles an hour, directly over the reef.
About the northern patches of the reef the tides have also been found at times very
irregular, setting East and West, and all round the compass; but their general direc-
tion in that part is nearly North and South, or within two points of the meridian. In
the South Channel, betwixt Pedra Branca and Bintang, the flood sets about W. S.VV.
and W. by S., and the ebb in the opposite direction along the Bintang shore, but sub-
ject to irregularities.
On full and change of moon, it is high water at Pedra Branca about 11 hours, when
any regularity is preserved by the tides. The velocity of the ebb, when strongest, is
from 4 to 4^ miles an hour, in the entrance of the strait and between Point Romania
and Pedra Branca ; but the flood is not so strong. The velocity of the tides during
the neaps is from 2 to 3 miles an hour, frequently very irregular.
NorthChannei. NORTH CHANNEL, formed betvveen Pedra Branca and Romania Reef, was
formerly in general use; although not quite so wide, nor so safe in the night, for run-
ning out of the strait, as the South Channel along the Bintang shore. Having passed
Johore Shoal about mid-strait, and intending to proceed out of the strait through the
North Channel, steer for Pedra Branca, if day-light. With the wind to the south-
ward, keep well out from the Romania shore, and endeavour to make Pedra Branca,
bearing E. N. E., or E. by N., then borrow towards it with the ebb tide, to give a
proper berth to the edge of Romania Reef, in steering out of the strait ; and do not
approach the reef under 16 or 17 fathoms when Pedra Branca bears from S. E. to
South, particularly with a southerly wind. After Pedra Branca is brought to bear
S. S.W., edge away to the north-eastward, observing to keep it to the westward of
S. S.W. whilst in sight ; or having brought the centre of Bintang Saddle Hill, ij'visible,
to bear South, steer to the northward along the edge of the reef, keeping that bearing.
The summit of the False or Little Hill will then be open with the western shoulder of
the Large Saddle Hill, which will carry you to the northward between the shoal patch
of the eastern bank and the northern patch of the reef, in soundings from 16 to 13
fathoms. The centre of Bintang Hill must not be brought to the eastward of South, in
passing the N. Eastern part of the reef; for if it bear S. 3^ E., you will get upon the
north-easternmost patch of the reef, where there are overfalls of hard ground from 6 or
7 to 4^ fathoms.
With a fair wind, or if night is approaching after passing Pedra Branca, or if thick
weather be coming on, do not round the reef close, but continue to steer about 3 leagues
to the N.E. before a direct course is pursued for Pulo Aor.
If not so far advanced as to discern Pedra Branca before dark, haul in towards the
land a little to the westward of Point Romania, and anchor in from 10 to 18 fathoms.
SINGAPORE STRAIT. — SOUTH CHANNEL. 281
during the night ; for it is then dangerous to run out betwixt the reef and Pedra
Branca, unless the weather is settled and clear, the breeze favourable and command-
ing, and the velocity and direction of the tide known at the time ; because the sound-
ings to the westward of Pedra Branca are irregular in some places, and not a certain
guide.
If, however, you are resolved to run out during a clear night, which may sometimes
be done by those well acquainted with the channel, pass Point Romania about 4 or 5
miles' distance, in soundings of 18 to 22 fathoms, and endeavour to preserve these
depths in rounding the reef, borrowing a little on either side the channel, as the pre-
vailing wind or tide render advisable. When abreast of Pedra Branca, from 18 to 22
fathoms are good soundings with a fair wind, and you will then be much nearer to the
reef than to the former. Be careful on the ebb tide, even with a commanding breeze,
not on any account to shoal under 17 or 18 fathoms, until Pedra Branca is passed, and
bearing to the westward of South ; for with a strong ebb tide, you may be drifted on
the edge of the reef without warning, as the distance, from 20 to 12 fathoms, is very
little, and there are 13 and 12 fathoms close to some of the dangerous patches. After
passing Pedra Branca, continue to steer 2 or 3 leagues to the eastward, to make cer-
tain of being clear of the outer patches of Romania Reef, then a direct course to the
northward may be pursued, towards Pulo Aor.
SOUTH CHANNEL, bounded on the North by Pedra Branca and its adjoining South channel.
ledges of rocks, and by the Bintang shore on the South, being rather wider than the
North Channel, is preferable for sailing through in the night, although until recently
it was little known.* The depths in the South Channel, although not very regular,
are usually 7, 8, and 9 fathoms near the shore of Bintang, from 10 to 12 fathoms in mid-
channel, and 15 or 10 fathoms near the ledges of rocks to the S. E. and S. Westward
of Pedra Branca. The depths in this channel are much greater to the westward of
the meridian of Pedra Branca, than upon, or to the eastward of its meridian, which
ought to be kept in remembrance, when passing through in the night.
In proceeding out of Singapore Strait, if not so far advanced as to discern Pedra
Branca before the evening, steer for the South Channel, by hauling towards the N.W.
point of Bintang, if the wind be southerly, observing to give a berth to the small
island and patch of 2 fathoms that lies about 1^ miles off that shore. After passing this
small island and the patch in 14 or 15 fathoms, keep within 3 or 3^ miles of the Bin-
tang shore, particularly when abreast the ledge of rocks to tiie S. S.W. of Pedra
Branca, that bounds the channel on the north side in this part, which is nearly miles
wide betwixt the ledge and the Bintang shore. There are Hi and 17 fathoms very near
these rocks, and when abreast of thera, from 14 to 12 fathoms is a safe track ; but the best
guide is, to take the soundings from the Bintang shore, hauling in occasionally to 12
fathoms, but not under that depth in the night. The bottom in 8 fathoms contiguous
to the shore is often hard sand: but in 10 and 11 fathoms, about mid-channel, it is
day in some parts, or sand and gravel mixed with clay. You may stand towards the
Bintang shore in some places to 8 fathoms in working, during the day, and out to 13
or 14 fathoms ; but in the night, do not deepen to more than 13 fathoms, when abreast
the ledges of rocks adjacent to Pedra Branca.
* The Ilooke frigate went through it in 1700. Afterwarils, it seemei! to have been concealed from the know-
ledge of Europeans for a great length of time, for English navigators knew of no safe passage, until Captain J.
Elmore, in the ship Gratitude, went through in 1784. It is now much frequented, particularly by ships going
out, or entering the strait in the night.
VOL. II. 2 o
282
PASSAGE FROM PULO AOR TO SINGAPORE STRAIT.
Anchorage.
Passage by
Kliio Strait re-
commended
when the
North-east
Monsoon
blows strong.
About S. by E. f E. from Pedra Branca, Captain Cowman, when passing out of the
Strait of Rhio by tiie South Channel in the night, had 5^ fathoms on a bank about
2J miles from Bintang, with 7 and 8 fathoms close around it.
Captain J. Lamb, of the Palmira, working out through the South Channel, in
May, 1821, during the night, put the helm down in 10 fathoms, to stand off from the
Bintang shore, but owing to a strong tide running out, the ship missed stays, and
although she wore quickly round, she shoaled to 6 fathoms : steered then North, with
a light breeze, for about half an hour, and was swept along shore by the rapid tide, over
very irregular ground, the depths varying from 9 to fathoms at a cast, and once had
4f fathoms. During this time, Bintang Saddle Hill was hidden by the low land, and
when seen over the land after standing out to 10 fathoms, it bore S. by E. 4 E. From
the IS. E. extremity of Bintang, a reef projects to a considerable distance, which ought
not to be approaclied too close.
When proceeding out by night in clear weather, to prevent getting too near the
Bintang shore, Captain Lamb observes, that the summit of Bintang Hill should be
kept visible over the low land, and when brought to bear S. by W., you may then edge
off to the northward, if certain that the ebb tide is running out of the strait. But if
the wind is unsteady, and the direction of the tide unknown, continue to steer N. East-
ward for some time, until well outside Pedra Branca and Romania Reef, to prevent
the flood from drifting you near either of these dangers.
You may anchor in the South Channel conveniently day or night, the depths in mid-
channel being generally 11 or 12 fathoms, and near the
Bintang
shore, 9 to 7 or 6
fathoms irregular, hard sand, or sand and clay.
Ships bound from Singapore to the coast of Borneo, or intending to proceed by the
Eastern Passage towards China, are frequently several days working out of Singapore
Strait, when the North-east Monsoon blows strong into it at times, in part of November,
December, and January. It may, therefore, be advisable for a ship, after reaching the
entrance of Rhio Strait, and finding the weather dark and cloudy, with a strong gale
blowing from the N. Eastward, not to lose time working out to the eastward with the
ebb tide, and anchoring on the flood ; for in such case, she may save considerable
fatigue to the crew, wear of ground tackle, and probably some time, by proceeding to the
S. Eastward through Rhio Strait. Here, she will have smooth water and favourable
breezes, and when through it, she may haul to the S. Eastward between Geldria Shoal
and Lingin, and then steer eastward for the Carimata Passage, as the wind generally
draws to the northward when the equator is approached.
PASSAGE WESTWARD THROUGH SINGAPORE AND
MALACCA STRAITS.
To sail from
Pulo Aor to
Singapore
Strait.
DURING the strength of the North-east Monsoon, the current sets generally to the
southward or S. S. Eastward, between Pulo Aor and the east end of Bintang, by which,
ships running for Singapore Strait, in thick weather, are liable to fall to the southward
of its entrance, if proper allowance be not made. If at anchor under Pulo Aor, you
ought not to weigh until past midnight, particularly with a fresh breeze, that the ap-
PASSAGE WESTWARD THROUGH SINGAPORE STRAIT. 283
proach be not too close to the entrance of the strait before day-light ; and the same
rule may be observed if you heave to near the island in the evening, to let some hours
pass over prior to bearing away for the strait.
Departing from Pulo Aor, steer to bring it to bear about North, when disappearing :
if the weather be clear, Bintang Hill and Pulo Aor may be seen together, but this
seldom happens. Do not bring the centre of Bintang Saddle Hill to the eastward of
South, until Pedra Branca is visible from the deck ; for with the hill bearing South,
you will not pass far outside the N. Easternmost patch of Romania Keef ; but it is a
safe bearing if the compass be true, and will lead down in soundings of 10 to lo
fathoms.
In hazy weather, Bintang Hill is seldom visible until you have passed the eastern
part of the reef, in which case, having Pulo Aor disappearing about North, a course
S. by W. to S.S.W. maybe requisite to counteract the S. Easterly currents, or the
ebb tide setting out of the strait to N. Eastward. The depths will decrease regularly
in steering southward, and the low land will jnobabli/ be seen to the westward, when
in 20 or 18 fathoms; coast it along at 3^ or 4 leagues' distance, until False Barbucit
low sloping hill is discerned, appearing a little way from the sea, like a clump of trees
more elevated than the others. AVhen this hill bears W.S. W., 15 fathoms is the fair
track ; with it bearing W. f S. and W. ^ S., overfalls from 16 to 1.3 fathoms may be
experienced, or probably less water, being then about the parallel of the N. Eastern-
most patch of Romania Reef, and the shoal patch, with 8 to 10 fathoms, on the East-
ern Bank.
Having coasted along at 3^ to 4 leagues' distance, with the land distinctly in sight
from the deck, and having brought False Barbucit Hill to bear about \V. by S., you
are approaching the N. Easternmost patch of the reef: and with this hill bearing about
W. f S., if a cast of 10, 9, or 8 fathoms is got, but uncertain whether these soundings
are on the N. Eastern extremity of the reef, or on the shoal patch of the Eastern Bank,
haul to the S. Eastward until in 14 or 15 fathoms. Steer then South about 2 miles, or
until F'alse Barbucit Hill bears West, which will place you to the southward of the shoal
patch of the Eastern Bank, and abreast the N. Eastern extremity of Romania Reef;
you may then haul in to the W. S. Westward, and get a cast of 10 or 11 fathoms, and
will then be certain that these soundings are on the edge of the reef; but, in doing so,
heave the lead quick, and if there is less than 10 fathoms, haul out directly eastward
into 15 or 16 fathoms, and then steer along the S. Eastern edge of the reef in 16 or 17
fathoms. If when Pedra Branca is discerned, it bear S. S.W., you are clear to the To enter Sin-
eastward of the reef; but if it is seen bearing S. by W. you will be close to, or upon ^y''°h|NOTtti
the edge of shoal water. Having steered round the reef so for as to bring Pedra Branca channel.
to bear S. by W., do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms in passing along the southern
part of the reef; for it is steep from 10 to 12, and from 12 to 3 fathoms at a cast, on
some of the shoal rocky patches, with Pedra Branca bearing from S. E. h S. to South.
Having passed betwixt Pedra Branca and the eilge of Romania Reef, in any depth from
17 to 62 fathoms, as the tide and the prevailing wind render expedient, steer to the
W. S.W''estward nearly in mid-strait, to give a berth to Johore Shoal. Altliough Pedra
Branca is steep to on the north side, it should not be approaclied very closely, for
navigators are liable to estimate their distance from it sometimes greater tiian the truth ;
and, as the tide runs strong, ships are in danger of being drifted quickly towards it
without warning, if they borrow near it in light breezes.*
• The Shah Munchah, a large and valuable ship from China bound to Bombay, standing into the strait at
2 O 2
284
PASSAGE WESTWARD THROUGH SINGAPORE STRAIT.
To enter by
the Great
Inner CImnnel.
To enter by
the South
Channel.
Directions for
ships whicli fall
to leeward.
Pulo Panjang
and other
islands.
Passage west-
ward through
Singapore
Strait.
If a ship during thick weather happen to get too neai- the coast to the westward of
Romania Outer Reef, she may proceed through the great Inner Channel, by keeping
about 3 miles ofl" shore, and when within this distance of the northernmost Romania
Island, keep about 2 miles from the east side of this and the other islands, in steering
down to the southward, attending to the preceding remarks given for this channel.
THE SOUTH CHAJNNEL is very convenient for ships which fall to leeward of
Pedra Branca during thick weather, as they have no occasion to anchor oulside. If
the wind be |V. Easterly, they may run down until within 4 or 5 miles of the Bintang
shore, then haul to the westward, and pass nearly in mid-channel between it and
Pedra Branca, in 11 to 13 fathoms water. With the wind at N.W. or North, it is
advisable to borrow towards the Rocky Ledges to the S. Eastward and S. Westward of
Pedra Branca, and endeavour to pass rather nearer to these than to the Bintang shore,
observing not to approach too closely to the S.W. rocks, as they are covered at half-
tide. By borrowing towards the weather side of the channel, ships will be enabled to
reach well into the entrance of the strait, and if the wind is scant and the tide setting
out against th^m, they will have smooth water and good bottom for anchorage, until
the tide of flood is favourable for proceeding to the westward.
Some ships have been set to the southward of the entrance of the strait by the cur-
rent, and having mistaken the high land on the west end of Pulo Panjang for Barbucit
Hill, and one of the rocky islets for Pedra Branca, they were obliged to proceed
round Bintang, and enter the Strait of Singapore by Rhio Strait; whilst others have
passed to the westward through the Straits of Durian. Ships which happen to fall to
leeward of the entrance of Singapore Strait ought not to go between Bintang and
Panjang, that passage being interspersed with many islets and rocky shoals, rendering
it unsafe for large ships, if boats are not kept a-head to sonnd. In such case, it is ad-
visable to pass outside of Panjang, and then steer to the S. Westward betwixt the S.E.
end of Bintang and the adjoining islands, with a boat sounding a-head, as there are
some reefs and sand-banks, covered at high water. The S. Easternmost Island off Pulo
Panjang is Ragged Island, in lat. 0" 50^' N., Ion. 104° 56' E., and Saddle Island, bear-
ing from the former S.W. f S., lies in lat. 0' 48' N. Monkey Island, fronting the south
coast of Bintang, is of considerable extent ; after passing between it and Low Island,
w hich lies to the eastward, ships intending to touch at Rhio, should haul to the N.W.
for that strait ; otherwise they may steer to the westward between the islands, to pro-
ceed through the straits of Durian, and enter into Malacca Strait at the Carimons. Per-
sons unacquainted, in passing amongst these islands, ought not to neglect to keep a
boat sounding a-head, to examine the channels.
HAVING ENTERED THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE, by either channel,
steer to the westward in mid-strait, or at any discretional distance from the north shore,
untilJohore Shoal, the first danger, is approached; keep then about mid-strait in pass-
ing it, and do not borrow nearer it than 18 or 17 fathoms, as the water shoals sud-
denly under 16 or 17 fathoms ; the island St. John kept W. by S. is a fair bearing in
steering to the westward. When the east end of Singapore Island, or the Red
Clifls, bear about N. by W., you are clear to the westward of the shoal ; the northern
shore is tlien safe to approach as far as St. John, but the south side of the strait, being
rocky, ought to be avoided.
mid-day, with a strong flood tide and scant wind, stood too near Pedra Branca before tacking, and was totally
lost, by the tide horsing her upon the rock whilst in stays.
PASSAGE WESTWARD THROUGH SINGAPORE AND MALACCA STRAITS. 285
If the wind and tide be unfavourable, or the weather very dark in the night, you
may anchor in 14 to 18 fathoms, towards the north shore, or under the N.E. side of
St. John, in Singapore Road; otherwise, pass the south point of that island as close as
the wind may render proper, and steer W. S.W. and W. by S. to round the Rabbit and
Coney. It is best to keep nearest the north side the channel in this track, to avoid the
Buffalo Rock, and the deep water and rocky bottom towards the south shore; but care
must be taken to give a berth to the reef off the S.E. end of Middle Island. The south
end of St. John kept N. E. by E. ^ E. leads clear of that reef, or the south end of Barn
Island W. by S.|^ S. ; and either of these are safe bearings to carry you along in the
north side the channel until the Coney is approached, which may be rounded at the
distance of 2 or 3 cables' lengths, if the wind is northerly.
When round the Coney and the south point of Barn Island, steer W. N. W. to pass Fiomthtnceto
betwixt Tree Island and the Sultan Shoal, and from thence between Tanjong Boulus P"'o P"^aiig.
and Little Carimon. The south end of Barn Island kept E. by S. will carry you about
mid-channel; with it E. ^ S. you will be near Tree Island; and if E. S. E., you will
approach the Sultan Shoal. After passing Tree Island, steer about W.N.W., hauling
up a little either way, as the wind or tide may require, to pass rather nearer than mid-
channel towards Tanjong Boulus, which ought to have a berth of 2 miles, on account
of the shoal mud bank that encircles it; it is steep from 16 fathoms.
From abreast Pulo Cocob entrance, steer about N.W. towarils Pulo Pisang, observ-
ing not to approach Pulo Cocob, or the mud bank that stretches along the coast be-
tween it and Pulo Pisang, under 11 or 12 fathoms; nor bring the outer part of the
latter island to the westward of N.W. With a fair wind, keep in 17 to 19 fathoms
about mid-channel, and do not borrow under 13 fathoms on either side, when working
in the night.
When Pulo Pisang is approached, pass outside of it at 3 or 4 miles' distance, if the
wind be favourable, then steer about N.W. by W., which is a fair channel course to
clear Formosa Bank ; or if Pulo Pisang is kept about E. S. E., it is a proper bearing
throughout the channel. In working you may stand in to 10 or 12 fathoms on the edge
of the Shore Bank, and off 2 or 2^ leagues to 18 or 20 fathoms ; the soundings on the
Fair Channel Bank will be a guide in crossing over it on each tack.
From abreast tiie bank off Formosa River, at 3 or 4 miles' distance, steer N.W. by W. Formosa Bank
for the Water Islands; borrowing towards the Malay coast occasionally to 12 or 13 j^f^^Js*'"
fathoms, there being no danger in this part of the strait from side to side. After round-
ing the Outer Water Island, at any convenient distance, if you do not intend to touch
at Malacca, steer about N.W. and N.W. by AV. for Cape Rachado, in soundings from
20 to 10 fathoms, keeping within 6 or 7 miles of the Malay Coast : but it must not be
approached nearer than 3 miles, in passing the rocky shore between Tanjong Clin and
Cape Rachado. This cape may be passed within 1 or 2 miles, and from thence steer cape Racimdo.
N.W. by W. for Parcelar Point, observing not to bring Cape Rachado to the south-
ward of S. E. by E. ^ E. in standing towards the shoals in the bight, nor to the east-
ward of E. by S. ^ S. in passing the eastern patches of the South Sands, when the cape
appears like an island. The soundings are irregular, but generally from 25 to 27
fathoms about mid-channel, 17 and 18 fatiioms near the shoals in the bight, and 35 to
40 or 44 fathoms near the dangerous patches of the South Sands. Cape Rachado
kept about E. S. E. is a fair bearing in passing through the channel towards Parcelar
Point, and when this point is approached, it may be passed at 3, 4, or 5 miles' distance;
but the coast forming the bight between it and Cape Rachado must not be approached
nearer than 5 miles, on account of Bambek Shoal.
286
PASSAGE NORTH-WESTWARD THROUGH MALACCA STRAIT.
Parceiar Point. From Paicelar Point, steer about N.W. ^W., keeping 3 or 4 miles offshore, to
avoid the shoal bank that lines the coast abreast of Parceiar Hill, and do not borrow
on the edge of it under 17 or 18 fathoms, for it is very steep under these depths. In
working, you may stand about 3 leagues from the land, into 24 or 25 fathoms, and will
probably shoal to 13 or 14 fathoms in crossing the narrow bank in the fair channel.
To sail from
the land of
Parcplar,
tliroiifh the
East-and-
West Clianncl.
FromEast-and-
Wcst Channel
to the Sambi-
langs.
From the Sam-
bilangs to
Pcnang.
HAVING brought PARCELAR HILL to bear about E. by N. i N., you may,
with a southerly wind and ebb tide, edge away for the East-and-W est Channel, betwixt
the North and South Sands, gradually drawing Parceiar Hill to bear about E. A N.,
by the time the low land of Callam is nearly disappearing from the deck. If the hill
is clouded, keep the body of Pulo Callam, or that part of land to the westward of the
strait, bearing about N. E. by E. ^ E., which will carry you well clear of the Two-
and-Half Fathoms Bank : and when the low land disappears from the deck, you have
passed it, and may steer along the edge of the North Sand about W. by N., altering
the course as the wind or tides require, to keep in from 14 to 16 or 17 fathoms. When
clear to the westward of the Two-and-Half Fathoms Bank, Parceiar Hill may be
brought to the southward of East, in steering along the edge of the North Sands ; and
tiiose who are a little acquainted may pass through this part of the channel in the
night, if the weather is clear and the set of the tide known, by taking the soundings
from the edge of the North Sands, and hauling oft' occasionally when the depths de-
crease under 12 or 13 fathoms. With a southerly wind, keep about mid-channel, but
care must be taken in the night not to approach the rocks off the Round Arroa ; for if
the Arroa is discerned with the glass or otherwise, haul immediately to the northward,
to give a berth to these rocks, and you will deepen to 35 or 44 fathoms to the N. East-
ward of the Long Arroa. From this situation, or from the western extremity of the
North Sands, steer about North to make the Sambilangs, and do not approach these
islands under 25 or 26 fathoms, when passing between them and Pulo Jarra in a
dark night, on account of the rocks that lie to the westward of them ; about 28 to
30 fathoms are good depths to preserve, in passing through this channel during
the night.
FROM the SAMBILANGS, steer to the N. N. Westward for Penang, giving a
berth of 4 or 5 miles to Pulo Binding in passing, to avoid the mud bank in the ofhng;
and, afterwards, keep along the coast of Perah in soundings of 16 to 20 fathoms,
about 3| to 4 leagues off. In working, do not stand out farther than 25 fathoms,
and tack from the edge of the shore bank in 10 or 11 fathoms ; for the water shoals
suddenly under these depths, rendering it necessary to keep the lead going quickly
when near the edge of the bank. In the North-east Monsoon, ships bound to Penang,
Bengal, or Madras, ought to be particularly careful to keep near the Malay side of the
strait after passing Puto Binding ; for strong N.E. winds, with a short sea, sometimes
prevail in mid-strait, betwixt Diamond Point and Penang, making it difficult for ships
which are in the offing to regain the eastern shore. Large ships bound into Penang
ought not to attempt to pass through the South Channel, unless a good pilot is pro-
cured ; but they should coast round the island, and proceed into the harbour by the
North Channel.
Leavinp Ma-
lacca Strait.
DEPARTING from, or having passed PENANG, whether bound to Bengal or
to the coast of Coromandel, steer to pass outside the Ladda Islands, Pulo Bouton, and
Junkseylon Head, at a moderate distance : if bound to Ceylon, the Malabar coast, or
CHINA SEA. 287
Other parts to the westward or southward, steer for the channel between Pulo Rondo
and the South Nicobar, conforming- to the directions already given for sailing- to or
from Malacca Strait.
CHINA SEA.
MONSOONS, TY-FOONGS, GALES, AND CURRENTS.
THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON generally commences in the China Sea about soutb-west
the middle or end of April, and continues to the beginning or middle of October, '^'°"''<'°"-
liable to an acceleration or retardation of 12 or 15 days; it sets in rather sooner about
the Gulfs of Siam and Tonking, and along the western coasts, than over to the east-
ward in the open sea, near the coast of China, or near the coasts of Palawan and Lu-
conia. It also continues longer to the southward of Cape Padaran and Pulo Sapata,
and along the coast of Palawan, in the southern part of the China Sea, than it does
more to the northward ; for southerly winds frequently prevail between Singapore
Strait and Pulo Sapata until the 8th, 10th, or 15th of October, when the N. E. and
easterly winds are blowing in the northern part of that sea. In September and in
the greater part of October the winds off the north extremity of I3orneo and the
west end of Palawan generally blow strong from S. Westward, with dark cloudy
weather and much rain.
In May the winds are often light and variable in the open sea, and Easterly or S.E.
winds are likely to happen for a day or two at a time, during the whole of the South-
west Monsoon; particularly in the northern part of the China Sea, these winds are fre-
quently experienced in both monsoons. About Formosa, and betwixt it and the China
coast, N. Easterly winds often happen in July, August, and September.
The South-west Monsoon is strongest, and least liable to changes, in June, July, and
August ; in these months, and also in May, sudden hard squalls blow sometimes out
of the Gulf of Siam, as far as Pulo Condor and Pulo Sapata. When dense clouds are
perceived to rise, indicating- the approach of these squalls, sail ought to be reduced
without delay.
From the Gulf of Siam to Cape Padaran, the South-west Monsoon blows along the
coast nearly parallel to it ; and if close in, a faint breeze from the land is at times expe-
rienced in the night, succeeded by a short interval of calm on tlie following morning,
occasioned by the influence of the sun. The monsoon breeze then sets in, and gene-
rally continues brisk during the day. These land and sea breezes prevail most on the
coast of Cochin-China, from Cape Padaran northward to the Tonking Gulf; for the
sea wind dies away almost every evening on this coast during the South-west Monsoon,
and a land breeze comes off in the night, although not at a regular hour. This is fol-
lowed by calms or faint airs, which frequently continue until noon ; the sea breeze then
sets in from S. Eastward.
In March and April there are land and sea breezes on the coast of Luconia, with fine
weather; but after the South-west Monsoon sets in strong in June, and from that time
until it abates in October, the weather is mostly cloudy ; and the winds blowing from the
sea upon that coast generally produce much rain. In June, July, and part of August,
288 CHINA SEA. — TY-FOONGS.
there is, at times, much rain and cloudy weather all over the China Sea. On the south
coast of China, the winds during the South-west Monsoon prevail frequently at South
and S. S. E.
No.ti,.cHst THE NORTH-EAST MONSOON usually commences in the northern part of
onsoon. ^^j^^ China Sea about the end of September or early in October ; but in the southern
part of this sea it seldom sets in steadily till November; light southern or variable
breezes prevailing the greater part of October. The weather in some years is settled and
fine, during September and October ; for the North-east Monsoon does not ahrni/s
set in with a storm, although the equinox is a very precarious period, for within a few
days of it storms are likely to happen,* and also with the setting in of the monsoon
in October.
In November, the North-east Monsoon generally prevails ; but it blows more steadily,
and with greater strength, in December and January. The weather is frequently cloudy,
with much rain and a turbulent sea, in these months ; particularly about Pulo Sapata,
and from thence to the entrance of Singapore Strait : there are also considerable in-
tervals of fine weather. On the coast of Palawan the winds are very variable in Oc-
tober, November, and the early part of December, by which ships pass along that coast
either to the N. Eastward or S. Westward, but the weather is often dark, rainy, and
cloudy. The winds on the coast of Luconia are frequently variable during the North-
east Monsoon, generally from the northward and N. Eastward ; but they veer to N.
Westward and westward at times, and then blow strong, with cloudy weather and rain.
In theGulf of Tonking, in November, there are sometimes faint land breezes close to
the coast ; but the North-east Monsoon prevails along the coast of Cochin-China, as
far to the southward as Cape Padaran, generally from September or the early part of
October, to the beginning or middle of April.
In February the strength of the North-east Monsoon abates ; during this month and
March it blows moderately, with steady weather all over the China Sea, inclining to
land and sea breezes on the coast of Luconia. On the south coast of China, when the
North-east Monsoon prevails, the winds blow mostly from E.N.E. parallel to the shore ;
they veer, and blow off the land at times, and also from the S. Eastward, but there are
seldom any regular land or sea breezes on that coast.
Ty-foongs. TY-FOONGSt a''*^ dangerous tempests, which occur in the northern part of the
China Sea, along the southern and eastern coasts of China, near Formosa, the Bashee
Islands, the north end of Luconia ; also to the eastward of those islands, and betwixt
Formosa and the Japan Archipelago. These tempests usually blow with the greatest
fury near the land: as the distance is increased to the southward from the coast of
China, their violence generally abates, and they seldom reach beyond lat. 14° N.,
although a severe gale has been experienced at times two or three degrees farther to the
southward.
* September 22nd, 1786, near the Grand Ladrone, the Gunjavar encountered a storm, which continued seve-
ral days, and disabled, and obliged her to take shelter in Galong Bay, at the south end of Hainan, where she
remained six months. The Warley, September 22nd, 1803, off St. John, experienced a tempest, that drove her
to the Taya Islands, blew away her top-masts, and did other damage. The Bombay, late in September, 1789,
had a tempest close to St. John, which obliged her to cut away her main-mast and run on shore.
Several of H. M. ships, and those belonging to the Company, have been dismasted by these equinoctial ty-
foongs, which generally happen within eight or ten days of the equinox ; and in these tempests, the Talbot,
Ocean, True Briton, Anna, and other ships, have foundered, with all their crews.
f Ty-foong, in the Chinese language, signifies great wind.
CHINA SEA.— 7 Y-FOONGS. 289
Ty-foongs are liable to happen in botii monsoons ; but they are usually less severe
in the China Sea, if they happen in May, ISovember, or December ; although in the
vicinity of Formosa and the Bashee Islands there are sometimes furious gusts in j\o-
veniber. From December to May ty-foongs seldom or never happen ; of late years,
those that have been experienced in June and July%vere the most violent; many ships
have been dismasted and sustained other damage by them. The months of August, Sep-
tember, and October, are also subject to these tempests ; the September equinox is a
very precarious period, particularly if the change or perigee of the moon coincide with
the equinox : when this was the case, ty-foongs happened several years at the equinox
in September, on the coast of China, and many ships were dismasted on the 21st or
22nd of that month.
To be able to prognosticate the coming of these tempests would be very useful to
navigators, but this cannot be done with certainty, for they frequently commence with-
out giving much indication of their approach. The clouds having a red aspect is not
a certain warning of the approach of a ty-foong ; for, at the rising, but more particu-
larly at the setting, of the sun, the clouds, especially those opposite to the luminary,
in settled weather, are sometimes tinged witii a deep red colour by the reflected light.
Neither is an irregular swell a good criterion to judge of the apjjroach of a ty-foong ;
for near the coast of China, a cross swell frequently prevails during steady settled wea-
ther. A hazy atmosphere, preventing land from being seen at great distances, is no un-
favourable sign on the coast of China ; for this is generally its state in medium or settled
weather. A serene sky, with the horizon remarkably clear, should not be considered
an indication of a continuance of favourable weather ; for a series of fine weather and
calms, favouring an increase of heat above the mean temperature, is likely to be suc-
ceeded by a ty-foong. When the horizon is very clear in some parts, and the summits
of the hills or islands obscured by dense black clouds, there is some irregularity in the
atmosphere, and stormy weather may be apprehended ; but, in reality, ty-foongs are
seldom preceded by any certain sign or indication. Marine barometers, if well con-
structed, seem to afford the best means of anticipating these tempests ; for, on the
south coast of China, there is a greater fall of the mercury than might be expected
within the tropics.*
Many ships have been driven from the Grand Ladrone to the Mandarin's Cap, and
even to the Taya Islands near Hainan, during ty-foongs; for among the islands, and
near the coast, these tempests generally commence between N.W. and North, then
veer suddenly to N. E. and East, frequently blowing with inconceivable fury, and
raising the sea in turbulent pyramids, which impinge violently against each other ; the
• Proceeding across the Gulf of Tonkingby the Inner Passage to China, July 21st, 1804, in lat.l8°N., the
mercury fell in a marine barometer, made l)y Troughton, from 29.65 to 29.05, previously to, and during a
hard gale at N. Westward, out of the gulf, which is a great fall for that latitude.
In lat. 19" N., Ion. 115° E., .September 28th, 1809, the Neptune's barometer fell from 29.85 to 28.30, prior
to and during a tv-foong, in which the True Briton, of 1,200 tons burthen, perished, w ith all her crew.
In lat. 17° N., Ion. 115.^° E., September 28th, 1810, the Elphinstone's barometer fell from 29.85 to 29.3, be-
fore and during a ty-foong, which laid her on her beam-ends, and they were obliged to cut away tiie mizen-
mast and main-mast to save her. In lat. 161° N., Ion. 116' E., September 9th, 1812, the Elphinstone's barome-
ter fell considerably, by which Captain Craig prepared for a ty-foong, which soon followed, and dismasted
H.M. ship Theban, anil the Cirencester, but the Elphinstone sustained no injury.
The celebrated circumnavigator, Admiral Krusenstern, informed me, that during the progress of a ty-foong,
near the Japan Islands, the mercury in his marine barometer fell below 27 inches, that being the foot of the
graduated scale.
Captain Howard, in returning from America by theBashee Channel into the China Sea, experienced a ty-foong,
October 18th and 19th, 1821, in lat. 16i°N., when the mercury fell to 27^ inches.
VOL. II. 2 P
290 CHINA SEA. GALES. — CURRENTS.
current, at siicli times, runs strong to the westward. From eastward, the wind veers
to S. Eastward and southward, and then becomes moderate. This rotatory motion of
the wind during ty-foongs is generally experienced contiguous to and within a mode-
rate distance of the coast of China; but about 2° or 3° from the coast, a contrary
motion often takes place. Here, as before, ty-foongs generally commence from the
northward, but instead of veering to N. Eastward and eastward, as in the former case,
the wind veers to N. Westward and westward, blowing very severely ; it afterwards
changes to S. Westward and southward, where it gradually abates in violence.
In some years, no ty-foong happens on the south coast of China ; at otiier times,
two or tliree of these tempests have been experienced in one year ; but fortunately their
furv is seldom of long; continuance.
Gales. GALES sometimes blow steadily from E. N. E. or N. E. several days at a time, in
September or October, near the coast of China. In the same months, gales are liable
to happen on the west coast of Luconia. Here, they mostly commence at North or
N.W., and veer to West, S. W., or South, blowing strong from all these directions,
with heavy falls of rain, and a cross turbulent sea; but they seldom continue long.
Strong N. E. gales have been sometimes experienced on the coast of China during
the South-west Monsoon ; in one of these, the Ceres, after making the Grand Ladrone
July 16th, 1802, was driven, by the 20th, westward to the Mandarin's Cap, with strong
gales, hard squalls, and the current setting from 1 to 2 miles per hour to the westward.
The N. Easterly wind continued nine days, which obliged her to stand out to sea, and
she did not arrive at Macao until the 2(}th.
In May, June, July, and August, severe gales of wind are at times experienced in
the N. Western part of the China Sea, particularly betwixt lat. 14° N. and the island
Hainan, with the Gulf of Tonking open. These gales generally begin at N. N. W. or
N.W. and blow with violence out of the gulf, accompanied by dark weather, and a
deluge of rain : from N.W. they veer to West and S.W., still blowing strong, and abate
as they veer more southerly. When these N.W. gales are blowing in the vicinity of
the Island Hainan and the coast of Cochin-China, strong S.W. or southerly gales
generally prevail at the same time, in the middle of the China Sea.
Currents dm. THE CURRENTS iu the China Sea are very mutable, their direction and velocity
'Monsoon^^' depending much upon local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they
' ™"'°" o-eiierally begin to set to the northward, in the south and middle parts of the China
Sea, and continue to set N. Easterly until September, while the South-west Monsoon is
strong ; but they are not constant in this monsoon, for at times, when the wind is
moderate or light, the currents are liable to change and set in various directions. After
the strength of the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current in the open
sea, setting to the N. Eastward ; but sometimes it sets to the southward.
Along the coast of Cambodia, from Pulo Oby to Cape Padaran, the current sets
mostly to the E. N. Eastward, parallel to the shores, from April to the middle of
October ; and duiing the same period it nets geiicraUi/ to the northward along the east
coast of Malay, from the entrance of Singapore Strait to the Gulf of Siam. To the
northward of Cape Padaran there is very little current in the S.W. Monsoon, near the
coast of Cochin-China ; for, from thence to the Gulf of Tonking, a small drain is
sometimes found setting to the northward, at other times to the southward. When a
gale happens to blow out of the Gulf of Tonking from N. Westward and westward,
the current at the same time sets generally to the S.W. or southward, in the vicinity of
CHINA SEA.— CURRENTS. 291
the Paracels, or where these gales are experienced ; and this current running obliquely,
or contrary to the wind, a very turbulent and high sea is thereby produced.
On the south coast of China the current is much governed by the wind : when
strong S.^^'. winds prevail, it runs along shore to the eastward, but seldom strong.
Near, and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there is generally a westerly cur-
rent, occasioned by the freshes from Canton River, which set in that direction ; fre-
quently sweeping along the islands from Macao to St. John between W.S.W. and
W. JN.W., about 1 or 2 miles per hour. This westerly current is, however, not always
constant in the South-west Monsoon, for it slacks at times ; then a weak tide may *ome-
times be experienced to set to the eastward.
On the coasts of Luconia and Palawan, the current generally sets northward in the
South-west Monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and near these coasts it seldom
runs very strong. JNear the Bashee Islands, it sometimes sets to the eastward when strong
westerly winds prevail; but generally strong to the northward, or between N. N. W.
and N. E.
The current in the China Sea, during the North-east Monsoon, generally runs to the currents du-
S. Westward before the wind, with a velocity proportionate to its strength : for when ""s "le n. e.
• 1 1 <■ 1 • • <■ I c. ^¥- Monsoon.
strong gales blow m the early part of this monsoon, an augmentation of the S. West-
erly current is produced. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during mode-
rate and light breezes, there is often little or no current.
In the western parts of the China Sea, along the coasts of Cochin-China and Malay,
the current in general begins to run to the southward about the middle of October
(sometimes sooner on the former coast), and continues until April. During the
month of March, the current runs constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with
light easterly breezes, and calms at times. On the coast of Cochin-China, and adja-
cent to the Island Hainan, southerly or S. W. currents commence sometimes about the
middle of September ; and from lat. 15° N. they increase in strength near the land to
11° N. or 1H° N., then decrease farther to the southward. During the prevalence of
the North-east monsoon, from about lat. 14° N. to Cape Padaran, the current frequently
runs at the rate of 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles to the southward in 24 hours,
along the coast. This southerly current is not always so strong, and it is confined to
the limits mentioned ; for it abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the
S.W., towards the entrance of the Gulf of Siam.
On the south coast of China, the current during the North-east Monsoon runs almost
constantly to the W. S. Westward, parallel to the land ; and sometimes with incon-
ceivable rapidity, when a ty-foong or a storm happens. At the distance of 20 or 30
leagues from the coast, the current seldom runs so strong as near it ; and out in 30 or
40 fathoms water there is much less current than in shoal water, near the shore and
amongst the islands. The westerly current sometimes slacks, and, contiguous to the
land, is succeeded by a kind of tides.
Betwixt the Island Formosa and the China coast the current runs to the southward
during the North-east Monsoon, and generally to the S.W. or southward, between
the south end of Formosa and the north end of Luconia, when strong N. E. winds
prevail ; but here, in light variable w inds, it often sets to the northward. On the west
coast of Luconia it is changeable, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at
other times northward. On the coast of Palawan the current is also mutable,
governed by the prevailing winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless im-
pelled by severe gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Botel Tobago Xima, the
2 p 2
292
PASSAGE THROUGH THE CHINA SEA.
current frequently runs strong to the northward and N. Eastward, so early as the
1st of IVIarcli ; and, although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction
during the South-west Monsoon; and in the opposite direction during the North-east
Monsoon.
PASSAGE THROUGH THE CHINA SEA, TO OR FROM
CANTON RIVER.
Inner Passage SHIPS BOUND to CHINA, which depart froui Singapore or Banca Straits, in
to China. February, March, and part of April, may expect a tedious beating passage: in March,
April, or May, they may proceed by the Inner Passage, along the coast of Cochin-
China, whicii is generally the most expeditious route in these months ; but when .June
approaches, and the South-west Monsoon is set regularly in, the track by the Maccles-
field Bank seems preferable, the winds being more steady in the open sea than near
the coast.* Even so early as April, about full and change of moon, a ship may some-
times get a westerly breeze blowing out of the Gulf of Siam, to carry her to the Mac-
clesfield Bank, and afterwards easterly winds, to run her to the Grand Lad rone ; but
if she proceed by the Inner Passage, easterly winds may retard her progress round the
south-east coast of Hainan, and thence to the entrance of Canton River. Some ships
Outer Passage, proceeding by the Outer Passage have carried strong south-westerly and southerly
winds, when others inside the shoals have, at the same time, experienced north-west-
erly and westerly storms blowing out of the Gulf of Tonking, with dark weather and
much rain, and have been in danger of being driven among the shoals. This hap-
pened to the Portuguese ship St. Antonia, of Macao ; she left Pulo Canton on the
same day we did in the Anna, July 20th, 1804 ; and on the following day a gale com-
menced at N.W. out of the gulf, which increased to a violent storm at West ; not
being able to carry sail, she was driven to leeward and wrecked^ upon one of the
shoals in lat. 1(J° 45' N. By carrying a press of sail during the first part of the gale,
we weathered about 12 or 14 leagues, the north-western limit of the shoals in lat.
17° N. ; having experienced in two days, during the gale, a S. S. W. current of 50
miles. This strong southerly current was also experienced in the St. Antonia, for
when she struck, she was by reckoning well to the northward of all the dangers.
Although the passage to Canton by the Macclesfield Bank, seems preferable to that
by the coast of Cochin-China during the strength of the South-west Monsoon, tlie
Inner Passage ought to be chosen if a ship be weak and crazy, or making much water,
* In June, 1803, and in July, 1804, we proceeded by the Inner Passage in the Anna, and two ships went
the Outer Passage by the Macclesfield Bank, at each of these times, having left Singapore Strait nearly when
we did. On comparing the journals of those ships with ours, it appeared, that on the same days, when nearly
in the same parallels of latitude, they experienced a steady South-west Monsoon, while we on the coast of
Cochin-China had land breezes in the night, south-easterly and variable sea breezes in the day, with inter-
vening calms.
f The commander and part of the crew of this ship reached the Isknd Hainan upon a raft, and from thence
were conveyed by the Chinese to Canton, where I saw the commander, and got a narrative concerning the loss
of his ship.
Making tlie
passage in
weak ships.
CHINA SEA. — OUTER PASSAGE, 293
for the gales which blow out of the Gulf of Tonking- are not frequent; and by adopt-
ing this passage, she may keep sight of the land, except for a few hours at a time.
Departing from Singapore Strait, or from Pulo Aor, she ought to steer along the coast
to the Iledang Islands, thence across the mouth of Siam Gulf, by Pulo Oby, and along
the coasts of Cambodia and Cochin-China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Turon.
From hence, it is not above half a day's run to the south-west part of Hainan, and she
should coast along this island to its north-east extremity, Hainan Head, passing be-
tween it and the Taya Islands ; then cross over for the coast of China about Tien Pak,
or more easterly about Hai-Lin-Shan. The islands from hence to Macao may be
coasted along at discretion, or shelter may be taken amongst them on emergency. By
following this route, a crazy, or leaky ship, will liave smooth water ; and being near
land, may reach a haven, or, if it is found impossible to keep her afloat, be run on
shore, by which the crew will be saved. If the boats are kept in readiness, the crew
may proceed to tlie nearest port, or coast along to any convenient place, as cir-
cumstances require. If a ship leave Singapore Strait before the middle of March
or the 1st of April, the passage will be tedious, unless she sail swiftly and hold
a good wind.
THE OUTER PASSAGE to Canton, through the middle of tlie Ciiina Sea, be- outer Passage,
comes precarious if a ship is not up with Pulo Sapata early in October; for near this
island, about the middle of October, strong southerly currents begin to prevail, with
light northerly winds, variable airs, and calms; by which many ships have been
delayed for several days, and have made no progress to the northward. From this
cause some of them have stretched over to the eastward, where they have been en-
tangled among the numerous shoals, and have been in great danger : others, to prevent
further delay, have proceeded to China by the eastern passage. These southerly cur-
rents about Pulo Sapata are liable to slack for a few days at a time, and this may
enable a ship, with the assistance of favourable breezes, which sometimes happen, to
reach lat. 13° or 14° N., where the southerly currents are not so strong as ofl' Cape Pa-
daran, about Pulo Sapata, and the Catwicks. Having reached lat. 13° or 14° N., a
ship may steer eastward if the wind admit, being then to the northward of the shoals,
in order to secure her passage, by getting near the coast of Luconia. If the wind hang
at N. E. and E. N. E. after passing lat. 12° or 13° N., rendering it difficult to get to
the eastward, long stretches to the northw ard ought to be made : and if the wind per-
mit, a short tack may be made at times, to keep up the easting ; for it would be impru-
dent to fall in with tlie coast of China, to the westward of the Grand Ladrone.
Several ships which did not reach Pulo Sapata until the middle of October, and even
so late as the 1st of INovember, experienced brisk southerly winds, which carried them
near the coast of Luconia, whence they got quickly to Macao ; but these instances are
rare, for southerly currents and light breezes generally prevail about Pulo Sapata dur-
ing the greater part of October and early in INovember.
The Royal Charlotte, Triton, and Warley, left Singapore Strait October ioth, 1793,
had no southerly current till they reached Pulo Sapata, INovember 4th ; afterwards,
they had N. Westerly, but mostly N. Easterly, breezes, and some days a current of 10
miles to the southward. On the 23rd they saw the coast of Luconia in lat. 16° ]\.,
and December 1st, in lat. 19°20'N., had a gale between North and IN. E. which drove
them back to lat. 18° 30' N., and they did not arrive at Macao until the 7th.
The Jehangire, after passing Pulo Sapata in October, 180(J, had E. IN. Easterly winds
and westerly currents, and on the 2Gth she got on a coral bank with overfalls of 11, 9|,
294 CHINA SEA. — PALAWAN PASSAGE.
to 30 fathoms, in lat. ](J°-20'N., Ion. 112° 33' E., by chronometer; this must have
been tlie eastern limit of the Lincoln Shoal, but no danger was visible from the mast-
head. It was calm at the time, and the current setting- to the S. Eastward soon carried
her oft' the bank : and although this ship was so far to the westward, at this late period,
she, nevertheless, reached Macao by the direct route.
The ships General Harriss and General Kyd left Singapore Strait October .3rd, 1821,
passed to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, then to the westward of the Paracels, without
seeing any of these dangers, or any part of the coast of Cochin-China. They saw the
Island Hainan on the 13th, in lat. 18° 40' IN., Ion. 110°58'E., and the Taya Islands
next day, where they had N.E. and E. N. E. winds, with which they kept working
near these islands and Hainan Head till the 16th ; then stood off to theS. Eastward
three days, and in lat. 18° N., Ion. 113° E., had a violent gale, or ty-foong, from North
and N. E. on the 1.9th. Anchored under St. John on the 22nd, to repair the damage
received in the gale, the General Harris having lost her main-yard ; sailed from thence
on the 27th, and arrived at Macao on the 30th of October.
This certainly was a singular passage, up the western side of the China Sea, in Octo-
ber ; and although effected by these ships, it ought never to be attempted. The ship
Broxbournbury left Singapore in January, 1826, beat up through the China Sea, along
the Palawan Coast, and arrived in February at Macao, after a five weeks' passage
from the former place.
In the Anna, we sailed from Bombay, August 26th, 1802, bound for China ; the
Lowjee worked out of the harbour with us, and the Ardassier sailed three days after-
wards, likewise bound to China. September 14th, we passed Pedra Branca, entered the
China Sea, and had light southerly winds till in lat. 12° N. ; then, with variable winds
mostly at E. N. E. and N. E., we proceeded to the northward by the common route,
making a tack to the eastward at times to prevent falling to leeward, but were never to
the eastward of Ion. 115° E. : made the Lema Islands, September 30th, and moored
at Whampoa October 4th. Having delivered our cargo of cotton, and received a full
cargo for Bombay, we left Canton River December 2nd, and on this day passed the
Ardassier bound inwards : this ship had been embarrassed among the shoals to the
eastward of Pulo Sapata, and afterwards came by the Palawan Passage, and along
the coast of Luconia. The Lowjee went through the Malacca Strait, and from thence
through the Sooloo Sea into the Pacific Ocean, by the eastern passage to China, and
she did not arrive in Canton River, where we had remained two months, till about the
middle of December, or fourteen days after we left it in the Anna, although both ships
left Bombay Harbour together.
The two ships Success and Good Success left Malacca, October 1st, 1814 ; the
former proceeded by the Palawan Passage, the latter beating up through the middle of
the China Sea, with N.E. and E. N. E. winds, was never to the eastward of Ion, 1 15° E.,
but both ships arrived in Macao Road at the same time, November 1st,
Palawan THE PALAWAN PASSAGE may be adopted when a ship is late in the season,
Passage. ^^ order to avoid the southerly currents and light winds often experienced about Pulo
Sapata, and in the middle of the China Sea, rendering the passage precarious. It is
tiierefore advisable for a ship leaving Pulo Aor, about or after the middle of October,
to steer for the South Anambas, passing to the southward of them, of Low Island, and
of the Great Natuna : and from thence N. Eastward, through the channel betwixt the
Louisa and Royal Charlotte Shoals. When past these, an E. N. E. course should be
steered, to give a berth to the Viper Shoals; and, if the wind be southerly, to get a
CHINA SEA. — PALAWAN PASSAGE. 295
sight of Balambangan Island at the distance of 8 or 9 leagues ; but, with a steady
westerly wind, a ship should pass that island at the distance of 14 or 16 leagues, and
make the Island Balabac, which may be passed at any convenient distance, about
8, 9, or 10 leagues, with a fair wind. If easterly winds prevail, borrow nearer to those
two islands, for these winds usually force a strong current through the straits to the
westward. Steer then N. N. Easterly for the channel, which is 9 or 10 leagues wide,
formed by the Half Moon, Royal Captain, and Bombay Shoals in the offing, and by
the shoals near Palawan on the inside ; and if the deep sea lead be kept going briskly
in the night, it will, in some places, point out the proximity of the inner shoals, as the
bank of soundings generally projects from the coast of Palawan a little way beyond
these shoals ; but from lat. 9° N. to 9° 56' N., there are 50 fathoms water dose to seve-
ral of the dangers. The best track to pass through this channel is to keep about 9 or
10 leagues off the south-west end of Palawan, and the same distance preserved from
the land, in proceeding along that coast, will carry you, in the fair track, clear outside
of the inner shoals and inside of those in the offing.
Great caution is necessary when passing the south-west end of Palawan in thick
weather, for it is fronted by numerous dangerous shoals and straggling rocks, stretching
to the westward and N. Westward 5 or 6 leagues from the nearest land. October 12th,
1822, at dawn of day, the Regent struck on one of these shoals, in lat. 8° 28' N.,* Bala-
bac Island bearing S. by W., and Boolanhow Mountain N. E. ; she lost her rudder,
and was afterwards totally wrecked. October 29th, 1815, the Herefordshire got sud-
denly into 4| fathoms, rocks, in the night, and, after grazing over them, anchored in
5 fathoms : at day-light the centre of Balabac bore S. ^ E., the south-west end of Pa-
lawan S. E. I S., Boolanhow Mountain E. \ N., distant 10 or 12 miles from the near-
est shore. The Countess of Loudon, Captain Hammond, from Bengal bound to China,
was lost early in November, 1816, upon a shoal, which he considered to be in lat.
10° 2' j\. : she struck in the night and soon filled with water. Captain Collingwood,
of the Susan, who was in company, and who saved the crew of the Countess of Lou-
don, was of opinion that it was the York Breakers on which she struck.
If the wind incline easterly, after being to the northward of the shoals, pass in sight
of the north end of Palawan and the Calamianes Islands, then cross over to make
Luban, or Goat Island ; and keep the coast of Luconia aboard, if easterly winds pre-
vail, taking care to give a berth to the Sisters anil Adders Island, which are not so
close to the land as sometimes represented. With the wind at S.W. or West, tiie coast
should not be approached very closely, particularly in passing Cape Bolina, or in cross-
ing the bay to the northward of it ; for tiie current sets from the northward at times
into the bay, and the cape is encircled by rocky ground and shoal water.
Ships which stretch off from Cape Bolina may often be able to pass to the eastward
of the Pratas Shoal, unless a strong N. E. gale prevail, with a leeward current, which
frequently happens ; it is therefore advisable, particularly in a ship that sails indiffer-
ently, to endeavour to keep in the vicinity of the coast of Luconia until abreast of Cape
Bajadore, to make sure of falling in with the coast of China to the eastward of the
Lema Islands.
THE PASSAGE to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luconia may be followed
without much difficulty in October and November; even in December, also in Janu-
ary, and at every period of the North-east Monsoon, this passage has been made by
* Probably 8° 18' N., if the bearings of Balabac Island and Boolanhow Mountain are correctly given.
SCTiOTl.
296 CHINA SEA. - PASSAGES OF SHIPS.
some ships : but the eastern passage is more certain if a ship do not leave Singapore
before the 8th or 10th of November, particularly if she do not sail fast when close
hauled to the wind.
Abstracts of The American brig Pennsylvania passed Achen Head early in November, 1803,
wari^chrna ^^^"1^ through Malacca Strait, and after getting near Pulo Sapata, with N. E. winds,
'tlti" """ stood to the eastward, and got embarrassed among the shoals; notwithstanding, this
vessel made her passage through the middle of the China Sea in the strength of the
North-east Monsoon, arriving at Macao in January, 1804.
The Lord Castlereagh left Bombay September 14th, 1804, remained three days at
Malacca, proceeded by the Palawan Passage and along the coast of Luconia, and
arrived at Macao November 3rd, having been at sea 46 days, on her passage from
Bombay to China. Had the Pennsylvania followed the same route, she probably
would have reached China in December, and avoided the dangerous track through
which she navigated.
Tiie Lord Walsingham passed the Natunas October 17th, 1787, carried steady
S.W. winds along the coasts of Palawan and Luconia, and made the coast of China
10th of the same month, in lat. 22° 44' N.
Tiie Eugenia passed the Natunas October 12th, 1805, proceeded by the Palawan
Passage, and on the 24th made the coast of China, at Pedra Branca. The York and
Royal Bishop got sight of Balabec November 1st, 178G, went by the Palawan Pas-
sage, and on the 30th arrived at Macao : the Walpole left Pulo Pisang on the west
coast of Sumatra October 12th, 1783, and arrived at Macao December 10th, by the
Palawan Passage. These ships were not coppered.
Hammaun Shah, Captain P. D. Schmidt, from Bengal, left Singapore Strait No-
vember 2nd, 1811, passed in sight of the North Natuna 9th, and between the Louisa
and Royal Charlotte Shoals, with S.W. winds, which continued till she passed
Balabec Island 19th, at 8 or 9 leagues' distance. On the 21st she saw the Royal Cap-
tain Shoal, and the Bombay Shoal on the following day, and from hence she had
moderate breezes often at N. Eastward, and a current of 18 miles some days in her
favour, in passing along the coast of Luconia at from 8 to 15 leagues' distance. She
stood off too soon from this coast, being 20 leagues distant from it when in lat. 16° 48' N.
JJec. 2nd ; and m attempting to cross over for the coast of China, a strong N. E. gale
with a heavy sea broke all her weather shrouds, which obliged her to weai- on the 5th,
and take shelter under Luconia to repair the damage sustained. Afterwards, she took
a departure from Cape Bolina 7th, passed to the westward of the Pratas Shoal with
strong N. E. winds, saw the Lema Islands December 11th, and anchored in Macao
Road on that day.
The Herefordshire and General Kyd, in company, left Singapore Strait Oct. 14th,
1815, had mostly light breezes from south-westward and westward till the 29th, when
they made the Island Balabec, and the S.W. end of Palawan ; from hence, in running
through the outer channel between the outer and inner shoals, they had cloudy
weather and rain, with strong S.W. and W. S.W. winds, which veered to south
and S. S. E. with the same weather, as they approached the coast of Luconia. They
kept within 9 or 10 leagues off this coast till November 3rd, then nearly abreast of
Cape Bajadore, where the wind became variable, and shifted to N. E., afterwards to
South and S. E., as they steered over for the coast of China, which they approached
far to the eastward, and were two days with northerly and north-easterly winds, running
W. N.W. and West till they made the Lema Islands, and anchored in Canton River,
November 6th.
CHINA SEA. — PASSAGES OF SHIPS. 297
The Duchess of Athol, Captain Daniel, left Hoogly River September 18th, 18-22,
arrived at Penang 30th, sailed from thence October 8th, arrived at Singapore Itith,
sailed again the 19th, passed to the northward of the Natnnas 23rd, saw Balabac the
27th, and Palawan on each of the succeeding days, Table Mountain and Ragged Is-
lands the 30th, Goat Island near Luconia the 2nd November, and arrived in Canton
River on the 6th of that month.
The Bridgewater, Captain Timins, left Singapore Strait, November Gth, 1819,
passed to the southward of the Anambas, Low Island, and the Great Natuna ; passed
the S.W. end of Palawan 15th, with strong S.W. winds, which carried her to lat.
10|-° N. the following day ; here she had easterly winds, and afterwards variable, from
that direction, with which she passed Cape Bolina 27th, and arrived oft' the entrance
of Canton River 1st December.
The Daphne, Captain Chatfield, left Singapore December 14th, 1822, passed to the
southward of the Great Natuna 18th, saw the Royal Charlotte Shoal 24th, and the
Pennsylvania Shoal 3rd January, 1823 ; having experienced much unsettled weather,
with a turbulent sea, off Balabac, and in the Palawan Passage, she did not arrive at
Manila, the port of her destination, till the 16th January.
The ship Janet Hutton, Captain Howard, from Bengal, left Singapore Strait,
November 8th, 1823, passed to the southward of the Anambas, Low Island, and the
Great Natuna, saw the S.W. end of Palawan 17th : here, she met with squally un-
settled weather, the winds mostly from north-eastward, blowing strong, with interven-
ing calms, and a turbulent sea, which prevented her passing Ragged Island till the 3rd
December. She saw Mount Calavite, on Mindora, December 9th, afterwards kept
within a moderate distance of the coast of Luconia, until abreast of the Gap of Bigan
tiie loth, and arrived at the entrance of Canton River 25th December.
The Broxbournbury, Captain Fewson, left Singapore Strait January Uth, 1826, pro-
ceeded along the west coasts of Palawan and Luconia, and arrived in Canton River
7th March.
Ships which sail indifferently often adopt the eastern route to China, after the
middle of November ; or otherwise pass into the Sooloo Sea by the Strait of Balabac,
and after reaching the Island Mindanao, proceed to the northward along the west coast
of that island, Negroes Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luconia, which is oeMera% prac-
ticable in the North-east Monsoon.* But the most speedy passages have been usually
made along the coasts of Palawan and Luconia, in October and November ; although
short gales from the northward and adverse currents have in some seasons caused
considerable delay to ships proceeding by this route. A ship leaving Singapore Strait,
which sails well, may however usually be expected to reach China by the Palawan
Passage nearly as soon as by the Eastern route in the North-east Monsoon ; but more
particularly, if she do not leave Singapore later than the 1st to the 4th of November.
* The Glatton, Abergavenny, Lord Thurlow, and Osterly, in company, reachetl lat. 9° N. near Pulo Sapata,
early in October, 1793 ; here, they got light N. E. winds with southerly currents, gainecl no ground during
seven days, and apprehending they would not be able to make the passage through the China Sea, bore away
14th October. In lat. 6° N., Ion. 1 12° E., they got westerly winds, which carried them through Balabac Strait,
and to Mindanao 29th,- they proceeded from'hence along the west sides of Negroes Island, Panay, and Min-
dora, with variable breezes mostly between S. E. and S.W., and arrived, November 7th, in Manila Bay. Here
they remained until the 7th December, kept along the coast of Luconia to lat. 17" 20' N., which they reached
the I2th ; passed on the west side of Pratas Shoal 15th, and arrived the 17th at Macao.
The Alfred and True Briton in company left Singapore Strait October 24th, 1799, had light northerly and
variable breezes, and reached lat. 7° 40' N., Ion. 106° 42' E., November 15th : they were drifted back to lat.
5^° N. on the 22nd, then stood to the eastward with northerly winds, and passed close to the north end of the
Louisa Shoal 26th, rounding the south end of Balarabangan December 6th, anchored about IJ miles off Ban-
VOL. II. 2 Q
298
CHINA SEA. — PASSAGE THROUGH TO THE SOUTHWARD.
Passage from
China during
the North-east
Monsoon.
Passage from
China in the
South-west
Monsoon.
Abstracts of
passages from
China late in
season, and
SHIPS BOUND from CHINA to the Straits of Caspar, Banca, or Singapore,
ought in March and April to adopt the Outer Passage by the Macclesfield Bank,
which is the most expeditious route in these months, keeping to the Eastward at leav-
ing China, and also in passing Pulo Sapata they ought to borrow towards the shoals,
where the winds are more favourable in these months than farther to the westward.
In April, the Vansittart, by keeping about 3 degrees more to the eastward than the
Herefordshire, made as much progress in one day as the latter did in ten. At all other
times, the Inner Passage by the coast of Cochin-China seems preferable. This is the
shortest route, and the ease afforded to ships, by steering from the Grand Ladrone im-
mediately before the wind, when blowing strong at N. Eastward, is a great advantage :
whereas, by the Outer Passage, a S. S. E. course is steered for the Macclesfield Bank,
often bringing the wind and sea before the beam, which strains a deeply laden ship.
Many have strained so much, that, in order to gain upon the pumps, they were forced
to bear away for the Inner Passage ; others, by persevering in the Outer Passage, have
laboured excessively, and some of them at last foundered with their crews; some of
the ships which, after leaving China, have been missing, have probably suffered from
the same cause. Had those ships, at leaving Canton River, steered S. S.W. ^ W., or
S. S.W. ^ W., the direct course for the Inner Passage, they probably would not have
strained in the least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety.
DURING the SOUTH-WEST MONSOON it was formerly considered imprac-
ticable to make a passage down the China Sea : but a fast-sailing ship bound to India
will generally succeed by the Inner Passage, during the whole of the South-west
Monsoon. If she depart from the Grand Ladrone with an Easterly or S. Easterly
wind, which frequently blows for a few days at a time, at all seasons, she will, if bound
to Bengal, probably reach her port of destination sooner than by following any of the
eastern routes on either side of Luconia.
Of late years, several ships have made their passage down the China Sea in every
month of the South-west Monsoon ; others, which were indifferent sailers, have not
been always so successful. The passage from tiie Grand Ladrone to Singapore Strait
during the South-west Monsoon may be accomplished in from 20 to 30 days, by a fast-
sailing ship ; particularly if at her departure every effort is made to get to the S. West-
ward near the Island of Hainan, or rather to get close in with the coast of Cochin-
China, as soon as possible.
It may be useful to give a few brief abstracts of passages down the China Sea, dur-
ing the South-west Monsoon, to shew the irregularity of the winds in this season.
The Anna, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone May 25th, 1792, with a S. E.
wind, which continued one day ; it then veered to South, and kept betwixt that and
S. S.W. : with these winds, she did not endeavour to reach the coast of Cochin-China,
guey, with the extremes from N. J E. to S. ^ E., the peak N. N. E., and a river's mouth East. With the long-
boats filled up their water from this river, sailed 9th, and were until the I7th working with N. E. and Easterly
winds through the Strait of Balabac, to the northward of Banguey. They anchored at Sooloo on the 25th,
where they procured some bullocks, filled up their water, and sailed again December 29th, and proceeded
by the eastern passage to China.
These ships had a very tedious passage from entering the China Sea until they arrived at Sooloo, but they
had little or no southerly current after passing the Louisa Shoal ; had they adopted the Palawan Passage, and
along the coast of Luconia, it is probable, they would have arrived much sooner in China, than by the circuitous
route of an eastern passage. In some seasons, however, the winds are more favourable for proceeding by the
Palawan Passage than in others ; therefore, a ship which sails indifferently close to the wind may not always
be certain of getting to China by that route, if November is far advanced before she reach the S.W. end of
Palawan.
CHINA SEA. — PASSAGE THROUGH TO THE SOUTHWARD. 299
but worked to the southward in the middle of the China Sea, and after reaching lat. during the
15° N., the wind shifted to the eastward of South, and kept mostly at S. S. E. until she Monsoon."
made Point Calavite on Mindora, June 14th. She then proceeded through the Sooloo
Sea, Macassar and Sunda Straits. In lat. 15° N., Ion. U5}° E., when the wind
veered to the eastward of South, and continued in that quarter, she could easily have
reached the southern part of the coast of Cochin-China, by standing on the larboard
tack ; for the current was in general weak, and seldom set to the northward.
The same ship, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone June 13th, 1793, intend-
ing to proceed by the Mindora Sea as in the former season, and reached lat. 17^° N.
on the 17th : squally weather and strong winds from S. Westward then set in, and
continued with a current to the northward several days, which prevented her from
making any progress to the southward ; she therefore bore away on the 2 1st for the
Bashee Islands, and proceeded by the Eastern Passage. After she bore away, the
wind continued at S.W. moderate and light breezes, and the northerly current ceased,
for none was experienced in running towards the Bashee Islands.
The True Briton left the Grand Ladrone May 27th, 1802, with easterly winds
steered to the southward, and saw Cape Bolina June 7th ; the wind then came from
southward with a northerly current, which induced her to bear away, in order to pro-
ceed through the channel between the north end of Luconia and the Babuyanes
Islands ; but on opening that channel, the wind veered to East and S. E. w ith a current
setting to the northward, which obliged her to pass out among the Bashees, betwixt
Monmouth Island and Grafton Island, into the Pacific Ocean.
The Arniston and fleet left the Grand Ladrone July Gth, 1796, and were ten days
reaching the Bashee Islands, with mostly S. Easterly winds.
The Cornwallis, in 1789, proceeded down the middle of the China Sea in May and
June, and reached Singapore Strait in about thirty days from Macao, having seen
several of the shoals to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, during her passage.
The fleet bound to England left the Grand Ladrone May 10th, 1807, intending to
adopt the passage through the Mindora and Sooloo Sea ; but the wind being at N. E.
when they sailed, and veering to the eastward, they were obliged to steer for Pulo
Sapata, and passed that island 22nd, with a N. E. wind. On the 26th, in lat. 7° N.,
they got the wind light and variable from the southward, made Pulo Capas 31st, then
continued to work along the eastern Malay coast, against southerly winds and a cur-
rent setting generally to the northward, until June 18th, when they got into the strait
of Singapore.
The Laurel left Macao June 10th, 1788, bound to Tringany and Bengal; she had
the wind first at S. S.W., then variable at S. E., East, and N. E., and on the 17th had
soundings on the Macclesfield Bank. With a continuance of variable winds, some-
times southerly, and other times from N. E. and N.W., she proceeded to the south-
ward, and on the 27th, passed close to a low sandy island in lat. 8° 43' N., having a
sand-bank and reef projecting from it. Erom thence, the winds were mostly light and
variable from South to S.W., with which she got sight of the North Natunas July Gth,
and anchored, 10th, in Tringany Road.
The same ship, in the preceding year, left Macao June 26th, bound to Batavia ; had
S.W. and S. S.W. winds the first four days, then variable at N.W., N. E., and S. E.,
the following four days; afterwards S. E. and Easterly, until she made the S.W. part
of Palawan and the adjacent shoals July 8th. She went through Balabac Strait, along
the N. E. coast of Borneo, through the Strait of Macassar, and did not anchor at
Japara on the Island of Java until August 12th.
2 Q 2
300 CHINA SEA. — PASSAGES THROUGH TO THE SOUTHWARD.
The Lord Castlereagh and Charlotte left the Grand Ladrone about the middle of
July, 1807, intending to proceed by the Eastern Passage outside Luconia, being bound
to Bombay. The winds being from the eastward, they were retarded greatly, encoun-
tered a ty-foong near the Bashee Islands, in which the Charlotte lost her sails, and
returned to Macao. The wind continuing from the eastward, the Castlereagh bore
away for the Inner Passage, betwixt the shoals and Hainan, then proceeded along the
coasts of Cochin-China and Cambodia, the wind prevailing from the eastward most of
the time. From thence, she soon got to Tringany and Malacca, and after remaining a
month at the latter place, had a tedious passage to Penang; and in working out be-
tween Achen Head and the Nicobars in October and early in November, she expe-
rienced westerly winds. Although this ship got easily down the China Sea in July,
it is probable, that if at leaving the Grand Ladrone, the wind had permitted her to
proceed into the Pacific Ocean, she would have made a quicker passage to Bombay ;
for the route from Malacca Strait to the western coasts of India is generally very
tedious in the South-west Monsoon.
The Thames, Captain Williams, left the Grand Ladrone August 20th, 1800, bound
to England, had variable winds, mostly at S. E., for several days, which prevented her
from making much progress in that direction towards the Mindora Passage ; the
season being far advanced, it was resolved, when in lat. 19° N. on the 25th, to proceed
down the China Sea, towards Singapore Strait. She had soundings on the Maccles-
field Bank 29th ; afterwards the vvinds were often at S.VV. and S. S. W., blowing
strong with a heavy sea, and sometimes variable light breezes were experienced, which
prevented her from reaching Singapore Strait until October 9th.*
The Asia, bound to Bombay, with the Sarah in company, left the Grand Ladrone
August 20th, 1803, made the Taya Islands 23rd, Pulo Canton 29th, passed Cape
Padaran September 4th : from hence, with southerly and variable winds, they worked
to the southward, saw Pulo Condore 14th, passed outside of Pulo Capas, and inside
of Pulo Timoan, Pulo Tingy, and the circumjacent islands, close along the Malay
coast, and on the 30th got into Singapore Strait.
The Asia, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone September 10th, 1798, had a
gale at northward on the 12th, which veered to N.W. and West on the following day,
then abated : at sunset 15th, the south part of Hainan bore from N. E. to N.W., dis-
tant 6 or 7 leagues, in 45 fathoms water; stood S. Westward with a S. S. E. and
southerly wind, and in 49 fathoms on the following noon saw the coast of Cochin-
China. She proceeded along this coast with moderate and variable breezes, saw Cape
St. James, 21st; with westerly winds, she then stood to the southward, passed 15
leagues to the eastward of Pulo Condore, outside of Pulo Timoan and Pulo Aor, and
on October 1st entered the Strait of Singapore.
The Anna, and three other ships belonging to Bombay, left the coast of China
September 15th, 1803, had variable winds from'N.W. to North, round to N. E., East,
and S. E., made Pulo Canton 19th, experienced strong southerly currents along the
coast of Cochin-China to Cape Padaran, which she passed 22nd. Here, we got strong
S.W. gales 23rd and 24th, also 27th and 28th had strong gales, hard squalls, and a
high sea, when working betwixt Pulo Condore and the coast of Cambodia, which
abated 29th. Worked along the coast, until in sight of Pulo Oby 30th, saw the
Redang Islands October 5th, then proceeded to the southward in sight of the Malay
* Captain Williams was the first commander, in the Company's service, who attempted and succeeded in
beating down the middle of the China Sea with a large ship against the South-west Monsoon, notwithstanding
that his ship, the Thames, had a weakly crew at the time.
CHINA SEA. — PASSAGES THROUGH TO THE SOUTHWARD. 301
coast, with the winds most variable and light between S.E. and S.W., inclining to land
and sea breezes, and a drain of northerly current. We passed close on the east side
of Pulo Aor 10th, and J 2th entered the Strait of Singapore.
The Upton Castle, from Manila, bound to Bombay, endeavoured to pass through
the Strait of Manila in July, into the Pacific Ocean ; but here she met with strong
easterly winds and a lee current, which induced Captain Beyts, the commander of
this ship, to steer westward through the China Sea, and the easterly winds continued
till he anchored at Nhiatrang, on the coast of Cochin-China, early in August, where,
after receiving a supply of water, he worked along the western side of the China Sea
to the Strait of Singapore.
From what has been stated, it appears that, in a fast-sailing ship, a passage may be conclusions
made down the China Sea during any period of the South-west Monsoon ; although, in '^^^^^^^T
some years, with considerable difficulty. In June, July, and August, an indifferent-sailing pies.
ship should not attempt it, except she depart from the coast of China with a favourable
wind : and even in a fast-sailing ship, unless some material advantage is in view, she
ought not to proceed down the China Sea in these months, if bound to the western
parts of India. A ship bound to Bengal may sometimes make a tolerable passage by
sailing early from China ; but those bound to Bombay will generally have a tedious
passage from Achen Head to that port, in October and part of November; if a ship
depart from China in May or June, she will prohabli/ reach Bombay more speedily by
an Eastern Passage than by beating down the China Sea, and proceeding through
the Straits of Malacca, or Sunda.
Captain Blake, of H. M. S. Larne, adding to his own experience that of several Capt Biakes
commanders of the " opium clippers," gives the following remarks. Remarks.
" In beating against or running ivith the strength of the monsoon up or down the
China Sea, ships should always pass to leeward of the I^aracel Islands and shoals, as
well as of the Pratas, or the Scarborough Shoals, should they be near them, on account
of the invariable set of the current to leeward. An exception may be made in beating
up against the North-east Monsoon after reaching 14° N., as there is an extent of sea-
room, and a ship must get well eastward towards the coast of Luconia before she can
fetch Macao."
" In running down the China Sea with the North-east Monsoon, the direct line
mostly adopted is nearly mid-channel between Hainan and the Paracels, holding
rather to the latter, where a southerly current of 30, 40, and 50 miles a day is usual,
and between 14° and 11° N., I have known it reach 60° in the twenty-four hours.
Thence making the coast of Cochin-China about Varela, and shaping a course south-
ward, so as to pass 30 or 40 miles outside of Pulo Sapata, from whence the course to
Singapore is clear, giving the Anambas a berth of about 40 miles, and always, if pos-
sible, sighting Pulo Aor, to ensure the reckoning ; more especially should the weather
be thick, when the lead should be constantly attended to."
" In running up the China Sea with the South-west Monsoon, there can be no
doubt that the Outer Passage by the Macclesfield Bank is the best, thus passing to
leeward of the Paracels with a clear sea. This monsoon generally hangs very southerly
during June and July, viz. from S. S. E. to S. S. W., the current always setting in the
opposite direction with a velocity proportioned to the strength of the wind."
" On leaving Macao to proceed down the China Sea against the South-west Mon-
soon, it is advisable to make the best of your way southward from the Macclesfield
Bank, keeping in from 113° 30' to 11(3° 30' E., and taking every advantage of the least
veering of the wind."
302
CHINA SEA. — ISLANDS NEAR THE EQUATOR.
Referring to his own passage in May, 1839, from Macao for Singapore, Captain
Blake conceives that he lost eight or nine days, for want of experience. " We should
not," he says, " have approached the coast of Cochin-China as we did, nor have stood
over so far to the eastward as the Investigator Shoal. Had we made shorter tacks here-
abouts, keeping the middle passage between the coast of Cochin-China and the eastern
shoals, we should undoubtedly have gained several days by it."
Captain Blake doubts the propriety of the recommendation given at p. 292 of this
volume, for weak or crazy ships to adopt the Inner Passage during the South-west
Monsoon, on account of the gales which, during that season, sometimes blow from the
N.W. out of the Gulf of Tonking, and on account of the southerly current, which, in
several instances, has set ships on the N.W. part of the Paracels in attempting to
weather them. In addition to which, he remarks, that " In running with the South-
west Monsoon by this Inner Passage in thick weather, the current, varying as it does
in velocity and direction, must render it precarious as to shaping a course with pre-
cision or safetv."
ISLANDS IN THE SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF THE
CHINA SEA AND THE EAST COAST OF THE
MALAY PENINSULA.
Islands be-
tween Borneo
and the Malay
coast.
St. Barbe.
Tides.
BESIDES the islands contiguous to the west coast of Borneo, there are several
groups and detached islands to the northward of the equator, in the space betwixt
that coast and the Malay peninsula, which require notice ; for ships passing between
Singapore Strait and the coast of Borneo, or proceeding through the Carimata Passage,
generally pass near, or among some of these islands.
ST. BARBE, called PULO PANEEKY BESSAR by the Malays, in lat.
0° 7' N., Ion. 107° 15' E., or 9 miles E. of Gaspar Island, is a high island, of trian-
gular form, about 3 miles long ; when first discerned, it appears like two or three
islands, being lower at the centre than at the N. E. and west parts. The JN.W. point
has two small rocks nearly joining it, and a bay on the east side the point, where
water may be procured, and some of the sandy beaches afford turtle at times. A
ship may anchor off the S. E. end of the island, in 25 or 26 fathoms, where, also,
wood and water may be procured ; as the shore is fronted by a reef, boats can only
land at high tide, at which time fresh water may be rafted off from the bay at the
north part of the island, which is the best anchorage in the southerly monsoon.
The tide rises about 6 feet on the springs, and flows to 6 hours on full and change of
the moon.
Direction
Island.
DIRECTION ISLAND, or PULO PANEEKEY KETCHEEL, in lat.O° 15' N.,
Ion. 108° 5' E., or E. f N., 16| leagues from St. Barbe, is somewhat larger, of conical
form in the centre, and may be seen 10 or 12 leagues; low land projects from its
CHINA SEA. — TAMBELAN ISLANDS.
303
S. W. extremity, near which is a small island. Betwixt it and St. Barbe, the
soundings are usually from 20 to 30 fathoms ; to the westward of the latter 35 to
25 fathoms, decreasing to 20 and 18 fathoms towards Lingin. In the channel be-
tween Direction Island and Pulo Dattoo the soundings are usually 18 and 19 fathoms
regular.
WELSTEAD ROCK, discovered in the Company's ship General Harris, Captain weistead
G. Welstead, on the homeward-bound passage from China, at ^ past 8 a.m. January
10th, 1825. Steering S. E. with a light breeze at S. S.W., the ship suddenly struck,
and grazed over a coral bank, with three or four light shocks, put the helm up and
wore to the northward ; sounded at the time in 3^ fathoms, deepened immediately
into 6, 12, and 20 fathoms, as before, and when just clear of the shoal, the small islet
off the west side of Direction Island was visible from the quarter-deck, above water,
the peak on Direction Island bearing S. 28° E., the peak on the highest of the Tara-
belan Islands N. 38° W., and the southern extreme of the Tambelans N. 48° W. ; dis-
tance from Direction Island about (3 or 7 leagues, and from Pulo Jarrang, the S. East-
ernmost of the Tambelan Islands, about 7 or 8 leagues. By calculation from the fol-
lowing noon observation, the rock lies in lat. 0°32'N., Ion. 107° 55' E., by mean of Position.
three chronometers, corresponding with the longitude of the peak of the Tambelans,
and the Natunas, by Captain Ross. This rock, being nearly in mid-channel between
Direction Island and the Tambelans, is consequently dangerous; for although the
chief officer, Mr. Whiteman, searched an hour in the boat to examine it more particu-
larly, yet he could not find it, as neither breakers nor rollers were seen to point out its
situation; it may therefore be probably a single rock, or Sinarroiv ridge oi small extent.
The coral rock was clearly visible under the ship's bottom when she grazed over it,
and the depth of water at that time, taken exactly, was found to be not quite 22 feet.
The Hilsborough had 7 fathoms on a rocky bank about this place many years ago, but
it was not then known to be dangerous.
PULO DATTOO, in lat. 0°7'N., distant about 10 or 11 leagues eastward from Pub oattoo.
Direction Island, and 4 or 5 miles to the westward of Souroutou, lies within 8 or islands.
9 leagues of the Borneo coast, and being high in the centre, of an oblong form, it
is visible from the ships at anchor in Pontiana, and Mampava Roads. To the
N. Eastward of Pulo Dattoo, several islands stretch along the coast from lat. 0° 20' to
0° 50' N., betwixt Mampava and Sambas, having safe channels and regular soundings
among them. From Pulo Dattoo, the depths decrease from 18 or 19 fathoms to 4 and
5 fathoms, within 3 or 4 miles of the Borneo shore.
THE ST. ESPRIT group of islands extend about 4 leagues W. by N. and E. by S., st.^^^P'"
the body of them being in about lat. 0°34'N. ; the easternmost island is in lat. 0° 34' '"" "'
N., Ion. 107° \^' E., bearing from the north bluff' point of St. Barbe JN. ^ W., distant
27 miles.
Green Island, in lat. 0° 43' N., is a small square island, with a sandy beach, and
covered with trees, lying in a direct line between the Tambelan and easternmost St.
Esprit Islands, rather nearer than mid-channel to the latter.
THE TAMBELAN ISLANDS, about 12 leagues N. Eastward of those last Tamw...
mentioned, are a group of considerable extent, in a N.W. and S. E. direction, and
304
CHINA SEA. — TAMBELAN ISLANDS.
moderately elevated ; the Great Tambelan Island is in lat. l°0'N., Ion. 107° 35' E.,
by chronometer. There is a good anchorage and shelter from most winds on the west
side of Great Tambelan, with a channel nearly a mile wide between its south point
and the islets adjacent. There is also a wide channel between the westernmost islands
of the group, leading eastward to the Great Tambelan, with 30 to 18 fathoms water,
formed between the N. E. and S.W. division of these islands, in an extensive basin
or harbour. North from the easternmost island, in lat. 1° 12' N., lies a. gap rock, and
another small rock to the eastward near it ; the depths round these rocks are 24 to
30 fathoms, and the passage betwixt them and the islands is safe, if care be taken to
avoid the Europe Shoal. A ship touching at the Tambelan Islands may sometimes
Supplies. procure a few goats, poultry, or other refreshments, although little is to be expected
here, the natives being very poor. There is a white rock about 7 miles E. S. E. from
Pulo Jarrang, or the S. Easternmost island of the Tambelans, with a safe passage be-
tween them.
Europe Shoal. EuROPE Shoal, discovcrcd by the Company's ship of this name, when she grounded
on it in 1816, is situated near to the Tambelan Islands, extending about half a
mile East and West, and a quarter of a mile in breadth, with various depths on it,
from 5 fathoms, rocky bottom, to 2 fathoms, the least water. When just clear of the
edge of the shoal, extremes of the Tambelans bore from S. by W. ^ W. to S. E., dis-
tant about 4 leagues. Stood a little to the N. E. and anchored in 25 fathoms, with
Rocky Island bearing W. f S., Gap Rock East, Tambelans from S. by W. f W. to
S. E. f E. distant about 5 leagues. By the bearings of the Tambelans, this dangerous
shoal appears to lie in lat. 1° 12' N., Ion. 107° 24' E.
Rocky Island, in lat. 1°9' N., distant about 3 leagues W. N. W. from the N. W.
extremity of the Tambelans, is small, and has an islet close to it. Saddle Island,
about 4 leagues farther to the N.W., is in lat. 1° 16' N. Camel Island, or Camel's
Hump, in about lat. 1°10' N.,* is 4 leagues to the S.W. of Saddle Island, and 6 or 6^
leagues nearly West from Rocky Island : the channels betwixt these islands are safe,
with depths from 26 to 34 fathoms.
St. Julian. St. Julian, in about lat. 0°54' N., Ion. 106° 48' E., is a small island, which by
several navigators has been mistaken for the Camel's Hump.
Aiiista Rock. AcASTA RocK, discovered by Captain Keen, of the American ship Acasta, at
10| a.m. May 15th, 1820, with Victory Island bearing about S. byE., 6 miles dis-
tant, when she passed about two ships' lengths from this danger, which seemed to be
a rock under water, the central part of a very brown colour, declining to a pale green
around.
The above-mentioned rock has also been seen in the ship Isabella, of Penang, of
which the following account has been communicated by Captain G. F. Gottlieb, then
chief officer of that ship. December 18th, 1822, at noon. Victory Island E. S. E.
5 or 6 miles; at 1 p.m. a strong breeze with a heavy sea from N. N.W. standing to
N. E., observed heavy breakers on a rock on the lee bow, put the helm down, hove all
a-back, and the ship veering round again to the N. Eastward, she passed so close to
leeward of the rock, that two of the breakers rebounded from it, and struck against
the ship's weather bow. This rock bears from Victory Island N. f W., distant about
5 miles, which will place it in lat. 1°39'N., Ion. 106° 21' E. When the sea receded,
Rocky Island,
and others.
» Camel Island is in lat. P 12' N., Lou. 106° 52' E., and Saddle Island in P 19' N., and 107° 2' E., by some
navigators.
CHINA SEA.— ANAMBA ISLANDS. 305
the rock appeared to be about 2 or 3 feet under the surface, and seems to have deep
water around, as we had no bottom with 30 fathoms, about a cable's length to the
eastward of it.
ATVVICK ROCK, discovered by Captain MacKoy, of the ship Atwick, on his Auvick Rock,
voyage homeward from Singapore, August 7th, 1831, at 8^ a.m., at which time she
grounded upon it, and made the lat. 1° 48i'S., Ion. 107° 34' E., or 22 miles East of
Saddle Island, in Clements Strait, measured to that Island by chronometer, in 48 hours
after the accident. Captain MacKoy having assured me of the existence of this newly
discovered danger, renders additional caution necessary in ships approaching Clements
Strait, or the Carimata Passage, from the northward, during cloudy or hazy weather,
when their position is uncertain, from the want of good observations.
DOUBTFUL REEF, with breakers, said to have been seen in the grab brig. Bom- Doubtful Reei.
bay Merchant, Captain Hughes, in January, 1825, and was nearly in one with Victory
Island bearing JN. E., distant from the island about 5 or 6 miles, and soundings of
32 fathoms were got near this supposed reef.
VICTORY ISLAND, sometimes called Woody Island, in lat. 1° 34' N., about Ion. victory island.
106° 22'* E., is of moderate height, covered with wood. About 10 miles E. S. East-
ward from it, in lat. 1° 32' N., there is a barren whitish island, called sometimes French
White Rock. The depths near Victory Island are 34 and 36 fathoms, decreasing a
little to the westward, as the entrance of Singapore Strait is approached.
PULO DOMAR, in lat. 2° 45' N., Ion. 105° 23' E., or 49 miles East from Pulo Aor, puIo Domar.
is a high barren rock, with 34 or 36 fathoms water close to it ; 35 to 40 fathoms be-
twixt it and the Anambas ; and 32 to 36 fathoms in the proper channel between it and
Pulo Aor.
THE ANAMBA ISLANDS consist of two large groups and several smaller ones, Auamba
with numerous detached islets. The channels between the groups appear to be gene- ^*''^'*«-
rally safe.
The South Anambas are but little known, and their true position is doubtful, but south Anam-
they lie North, a little westerly, from Victory Island. Pulo Repon, or Saddle Island, in
lat. 2° 24^' N., Ion. 105° 52' E., is the south-westernmost detached isle of the Anambas
group ; it is small, and has about 6 leagues westward, in lat. 2° 18' N., Ion. 105° 33' E.,
a White Rock, high above water. Captain La Place, of the French corvette, the
Favorite, in April, 1831, passed about mid-way between, carrying depths from 30 to
34 fathoms, muddy bottom.
Baoua is a small group, nearly 4 leagues to the N. E. of Saddle Island; and 5
leagues E. N. E. of Baoua is another small group, called Rittan, in lat. 2° 39' N.
The Western Anambas consist of a high ishmd, called Djimaja, about 4 leagues fester"
in length, with several small islands, nearly joining each other, off its N.W. extremity;
their north-west limit is in lat. 3° 7' N., Ion. 10-5° 34' E., and the south point of the large
island is in lat. 2° 50' N. ; it has a peak on it, and a bay on the north side, with islets
* Baron Wrangel made it 14° 39' 25" West from Cavite, in Manila Bay, by chronometer, or in Ion. 106°
14' 50" E. ; he remarks, that Camel Island was visible at 28 miles' distance, with the eye elevated 16 feet ; Vic-
tory Island at 24 miles, with 24 feet of elevation.
VOL. II. 2 R
bas.
Anambas
306 CHINA SEA. — NATUNA ISLANDS.
and reefs about a mile distant on the western side, and soundings of 24 to 35 fathoms
near them. There is a sunken rock, on which the Courier struck, in lat. 2° 58' N., about
3 miles from the western shore of Djimaja, and nearly the same distance from Point
Joulan, which projects to the westward near the parallel of 3° N.
North Anam- The NoRTH Anambas is the uorth-easternmost group of these islands, and is com-
''"'■ prehended between the parallel of .3° and 3° 30' N. There are four large islands to the
westward, and numerous smaller ones to the south-eastward, with other detached islets.
Peaked Island, in lat 3° 5' N., is 3 leagues to the N. E. of the east end of the Great
Western Anambas, having other groups to the south-eastward of it, extending nearly
to Pulo Rittan, the largest of which is Pulo Riabou, in lat. 2° 48' N., about 3 leagues
to the N.N.W. of Rittan.
Captain Laplace examined these islands in 1831, and he makes the three largest
islands of the North Anambas extend from lat. 3° 9' to 3° 27^' N. ; the two northern-
most, called Pulo Mata and Pulo Mabour, having a channel about a mile wide
between them, called Selamata, with depths of 15 to 28 fathoms in the south entrance
and middle part ; but the northern part has several isles and rocks between the north
extremes of the large islands, and appears, by the chart of the survey, not to have
been examined. Between the south point of Pulo Mobour, the westernmost island,
and Pulo Manguin, fronting it about a mile distant to the westward, the entrance of a
deep inlet is formed, called Anse de Paris by the above-named officer; this inlet extends
about 3 miles to the northward into Pulo Mobour, nearly dividing the island into two sec-
tions ; its usual depths are from 23 to 1 7 fathoms, decreasing near the shore at the upper
part, and it appears to form a safe harbour.
Pulo Siantan, the southern large island of the North Anambas, fronts the south end
of Pulo Mata, having a channel between them from 1 to 1|^ miles wide, in which the
depths are from 10 to 24 fathoms : its eastern entrance is obstructed by a chain of shoals,
but there is thought to be a narrow passage, with from 5 to 9 fathoms water, to the
southward of them, by keeping close along the reef that lines the eastern side of Pulo
Siantan. The western entrance of Pulo Siantan Channel is formed by TupinierBay,
which is 3 miles wide between Tanjong Pedasse, the N.W. point of Pulo Siantan, and
the south point of Pulo Manguin, which bear nearly North and South of each other ;
the centre of the entrance is in lat. 3° 16^' N., with depths from 24 to 32 fathoms.
About 1^ miles inside of Tanjong Pedasse stands the village Terempa, at the bottom
of a small bay, where a vessel might anchor in from 10 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom,
sheltered from all winds ; and, 2 miles farther to the eastward, a bay is formed in the
north-east part of Pulo Siantan, with depths of 10 to 15 fathoms near the reef that
lines the shore, where ships might anchor completely land-locked, according to the
chart of these islands by Captain Laplace.
The larger islands are inhabited, and abound with tropical fruits and vegetables, but
it is dangerous landing without proper precaution, for the Malays who reside on them
may probably massacre or make slaves of strangers, if tliey perceive a convenient
opportunity.
Natunas. THE NATUNAS extend from the coast of Borneo a great way to the north-
westward : they may be divided into three groups — the North Natunas, the Great
or Grand Natuna and its contiguous isles, and the South Natunas near Borneo.
This group is subdivided by a safe channel, and the outside channel is spacious, be-
twixt it and Great Natuna.
CHINA SEA. — NATUNA ISLANDS.
307
NATUNAS consist of Pulo Laut,* a long island, stretching
S.W. by S. 8 miles, with Pulo Stokong, a smaller island, near
Northern
Natunas.
THE NORTH
N. E. by N. and
its north extremity, and several islets and rocks close to its southern end, upon the reef
that lines the shore. There is also a rocky islet, in lat. 4° 39' N., about 2 miles South
from the S. E. point of Pulo Laut. The northern extremity of these islands is in lat.
4° 51' N., Ion. 108° 2' E., measured from Pedra Branca by chronometer, and corres-
ponding with the observations of Captain Laplace. There are 35 fathoms water about
1^ miles N. N.W. from the northern island, but the whole of the western coast of the
long island is lined by a dangerous reef, which extends nearly 5 miles W. by S., and
AV. S.W. from the S.W. point of that island, having no ground at 40 fathoms within a
mile of its extremity; but both to the northward and southward of the extreme west-
ern point of the reef there are soundings of 32 to 36 fathoms, mostly coral bottom.
The soundings near these islands are irregular in some places, for the Laurel had from "
20 to 10 fathoms, and at one time 7 fathoms, coral rock, with the islands bearing from
N.W. by W. to W. S.W., distant 5 or 6 miles; when the body of them bore south-
west, distant 3 or 4 miles, the soundings w ere more regular. The North Natunas are
of moderate height, producing coco-nuts, and some other fruits, and they are inhabited
by Malays.
Saddle, or Semione Island, in lat. 4° 31' N., Ion. 107° 44' E., distant about 6 leagues saddle island.
S.W. of Pulo Laut, has a reef projecting from its south end, and another from the
north-west end, with less than 3 fathoms water on it, and 40 fathoms close to. A rock
above water lies about 3 or 4 miles to the S. S.W. of this island, with 28 fathoms be-
tween them.
The Success Breakers, seen by the Success, November 14th, 1815, are about 2 miles
in extent, and are in lat. 4° 23' N., Ion. 107° 55' E., nearly mid-way between Saddle
Island and the north point of the Great Natuna : when the breakers were seen from
the deck, bearing E. by S. about 2 miles. Saddle Island bore N .W. | W. about 4 leagues;
the eastern extreme of North Natuna N. by E. ; western extreme of Great Natuna
S. by W. ^ W., distant 6 or 6^ leagues. She afterwards tacked in 35 fathoms within a
mile of the breakers. The Favourite, Captain Laplace, in IMarch, 1831, passing close
to the eastern extremities of these dangers, marked as two patches in his chart, carried
soundings of 30 to 24 fathoms, sandy bottom.
THE GRAND, or GREAT NATUNA, called Pulo Boong-ooran by the Malays, Great
extends from lat. 3° 39' to 4° 15' N., and tlie two small islands off the north point, ^'"""^
joined to it by a reef, extend about 3 miles farther, with 17 fathoms within a mile of
them. The northern extremity of the island is in Ion. 108° 14' E., the eastern part in
108° 26' E., by chronometer, and it is about 6j leagues in breadth East and West. The
interior is mostly high ; and on the northern part of the island are two mountains of
considerable elevation, Goonong Bedong or Quoin Hill, in lat. 4° 3' N., and Goonong
Ranay, nearTanjong Senoubing, the east point, in lat. 4° N. ; the latter is 1,890 feet in
height, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues. Souie of the projecting parts of the coast
are rather low, particularly from lat. 4° N. to the north end of the island, wliere there
are red cliffs. Reefs and islets line the eastern coast, rendering it dangerous to ap-
proach under 2 leagues in some places, at which distance the depths are usually from
34 to 46 fathoms. The western coast is also fronted by islands, the chief of which are
those of the group lying near the S.W. extreme of the Great Natuna; Pulo Sededap,
e. Sea Island.
2 R 2
308
CHINA SEA. — NATUNA ISLANDS.
North-west
Island.
Low Pyrami-
ilal Rocks
Nortli Hay-
cock Island.
Diana Shoal.
in lat. 3° 34' N., is the southernmost island of the s^roup ; they are high isles.* Peaked
Island, in lat. 3° 54' N., is also high; likewise North-west, or Selouan Island, in lat.
4° 8' N., Ion. 107° 50' E., which has a reef projecting a mile or more from its south
point, with depths of 30 to 20 fathoms on its S.VV. sides : a reef is marked at 2^ or 3
miles' distance from the western side of this island, by Captain Laplace.
In lat. 4° U-' N., and 6 miles S. S.W. from North-west Island, lies a reef of coral
rock, with only 2 fathoms on it, and from 20 to 30 fathoms near it on the west and
south-west sides : about 5 miles S.W. by S. from the above reef, and 3 leagues W.N.VV.
from Peaked Island, and about the same distance from North-west Island, another
coral shoal lies in lat. 3° 57^' N., having 3 fathoms, rocks, on it, and from 20 to 30
fathoms, mud, close around ; these shoals were explored by Captain Ross, the Com-
pany's Marine Surveyor, in 1814; there is also a reef mid-way between North-west
Island and the north point of the Great Natuna.
LOW PYRAMIDAL ROCKS, about 8| leagues to the westward of North-west
Island, and 12 or 13 leagues distant from the western part of Great Natuna, are in the
track of ships returning from China late in the season, when they pass between the
Anambas and the Natunas, proceeding towards Caspar Straits. The Windham and
Coldstream, January 17th, 1817, passed on the east side of these rocks at 4 miles' dis-
tance ; they describe themasaclump, of rugged aspect, elevated about 20 or 25 feet above
the sea, and they place them in lat. 4° & N., Ion. 107° 24^' E. The General Kyd,
Captain Nairne, March 19th, 1818, passed 4 or 5 miles to the westward of them, and
they were estimated to lie in about lat. 4° 9' N., Ion. 107° 27' E., by chronometer, mea-
sured from Macao. When North-west Island bore N. 85° E., the rocks were on a
transit line with Peaked Island bearing S. 72° E., distant 4 or 5 miles.
NORTH HAYCOCK ISLAND, in lat. 3° 19' N., Ion. 107° 34' E., distant 10 or 11
leagues south-westward from South-west Island oft' Great Natuna, is high, of conical
shape, having a reef projecting from it to the south-westward and southward 3 or 4
miles, with .30 and 33 fathoms near its edge.
DIANA SHOAL is a dangerous coral reef to the north-westward of Low Island ;
Lieutenant Kempthorne grounded upon it in H. M. brig Diana, from whose journal
the following account is taken. December 10th, 1808, at half-past 7 a.m. saw the
bottom, and sounded in ^ less 5 fathoms, but lost the lead, by its getting fixed in the
coral. Wore to the eastward, and had 5^, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 17 fathoms, then no bottom
at 20 fathoms. The boat sent to sound had 3J fathoms, and several casts of 5^ fathoms
on the points of coral, with deep water between them: two spots of discoloured water,
one bearing South, and the other S.W. by W. about 2 miles, appeared much shoaler
than where the boat sounded. The shoal seemed to extend N. E. by E. and S.W. by W.,
no broken water was visible upon it, but when the swell rolled over the points of coral,
it resembled a shoal of fish.
When the bottom was first seen in 4f fathoms, the N. E. point of Low Island bore
S. E., and the N.W. point, with the S.W. point just open of it, bore S. S. E. ^ E.,
Haycock Island, N. 43° W., distant from Low Island about 9 or 10 miles. Where
* Captain Laplace, in the Favourite corvette, passed between the south group and the south-west part of
Great Natuna, in soundings usually from 24 to 12 fathoms, named Canal Laplace on his chart ; but it seems
narrow and intricate, interspersed with reefs, both detached, and fronting the isles on either side ; consequently,
not safe for large ships without great caution.
CHINA SEA. — NATUNA ISLANDS.
309
the boat sounded, she had nearly the same bearings, but was half a mile more to the
N.VV., with Haycock Island just in sight from her.
The channel between INatunas and Anambas Islands is wide and safe in day-light ;
but as several coral spots with very little water on them have been discovered in the
vicinity of the Natunas, a good look-out is necessary, as other shoal patches may pro-
bably exist yet unknown.
LOW ISLAND, in lat. 3° 1' N., Ion. 107° 48' E., distant about 8 leagues to the Low isiami.
S. E. of Haycock Island, is of considerable extent, having shoal water extending to a
considerable distance from its eastern and western sides ; and the following shoal,
lately discovered, in the ship Janet Hutton, requires great caution in ships passing to
the southward of Low Island.
HUTTON SHOAL is thus described in the journal of Captain Howard. Novera- Hutton shoai.
ber 9th, 1822, at 10 a.m., observing shoal water to extend a long way off the east and
west ends of Low Island, edged out to give it a wide berth in passing on the south
side. From 10 a.m. to noon, steered E. by S. 3 miles, and East 2 miles till noon,
when discoloured water was seen bearing East, hauled up N. E. by N. to go between
it and the island, the extremes of the latter then bearing from N.W. by N. to W.
by N., distant about 3 miles, observed lat. 2° 59' N.
November 10th, p.m. In passing between the shoal and island, the least water was
8 fathoms, rocks, with the east part of the island bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., distant 3
miles, and the nearest patch of shoal water bearing S.E. from the ship. This appears
to be an extensive shoal, consisting of patches, and formed in the sliape of a horse-
shoe. After having passed between it and Low Island, sent the 1st officer in a boat
to examine the nearest patch, on which he had 3| fathoms pyramidal rocks, and there
is probably less water on some of the patches, with channels between them. The
southern, or outer patch, appeared to be 4 or 4^ miles distant from Low Island in an
E. by N. or E. N. Easterly direction.
JACKSON SHOAL, discovered August 26th, 1830, in the ship Hannah, Captain .lackson shoai.
Jackson, is situated in lat. 2° 50' N., Ion. 107° 55' E., near Low Island. At 11 a.m.,
the bottom was perceived in 14 fathoms, coral, and the boat, in sounding near the
ship, had from 5 to 7 fathoms, coral ; in one place only 4| fathoms, with apparently
less water on other patches of this coral shoal, which extends about 2 miles in a S. E.
and N.W. direction, bearing from the east point of Low Island E. S. E., distant about
6 miles, and it lies 2 miles outside the Bridge water's track as marked on sheet 1st of
Horsburgh's chart of the China Sea. This shoal ought to be avoided, as well a.s
Hutton Shoal to the northward, which may probably be a continuation of the chain of
shoals formed of coral patches, now ascertained to exist in the proximity of Low
Island.
THE SOUTH NATUNAS consist of detached groups of islands, forming a kind souti.xamna.,
of square about 12 or 14 leagues in diameter; the nortiiernmost of them, called Flat
Island, in lat. 3° 3' N., Ion. 108° 54' E., is of considerable extent from North to South,
formed of low land, except the north end, whicli is of moderate height : to the south-
westward and southward of it, other islands and rocks extend 4 or 5 leagues towards
High Island group, which greatly contracts the channel between these groups ; and a
rocky shoal lies or 7 miles to the eastward of Flat Island. West Island, in lat.
310 CHINA SEA. — NATUNA ISLANDS.
2° 40' N., Ion. 108° 40' £., about 9 leagues S.W. i S. from Flat Island, is of consider-
able height, and from the small island in lat. 4° 0' N., oft' the east point of Great
Natuna, it bears S. ^ E., distant 80 miles : a reef projects half a mile from the north
and west sides of the island, and farther from the N. E. part; and at the distance of
2^ miles N.E. by E. from it, there is a high rock, apparently surrounded with shoal
water. The depths in the channel between Great Natuna and these islands are from
40 to 52 fathoms. East Island, in lat. 2° 40' N., Ion. 109° 20' E., is of moderte ele-
vation, and distant about 15 leagues to the eastward of West Island. South Island,
called also High Island, or Sapata, in lat. 2° 26' N., and 7 or 8 leagues S. Westward
of East Island, is encompassed with small isles and rocks ; straggling rocks are also
said to extend from these nearly to South Haycock Island, preventing a safe passage
between them and the latter island ; but Captain Pearson thinks there is a safe chan-
nel on the north side of the Haycock Island, as the passage between it and High
Island group seemed open to his view, when proceeding close along the western sides
of the islands.
The passage of the South Natunas, formed by Flat Island group and West Island
on one side, and by East Island, South Island, and South Haycock Island on the
other, is safe, with soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms ; the most contracted part between
High Island group and that of Flat Island being 4 or 5 leagues wide. The islands on
the east side of the channel are steep to, but the Flat Island group must not be ap-
proached closely, the ground being rocky to the distance of 3 or 4 miles off, and the
shoal to the eastward of the island, on which the Pigot nearly grounded, being dan-
gerous.
If a shij) entering this channel from westward pass near the north side of Haycock
Island, a course about N. E. by E. will lead through ; but if, in entering it, she pass
near West Island on the south side, a course about East to E. by S. will be required,
until past the small isles on the north side of the channel, which are farther detached
from the large Flat Island than formerly marked on the charts, and appear to have
straggling rocks 2 or 3 miles distant from some of them. The southernmost of these
small isles of Flat Island group bears about E. | S. from West Island, distant about
6 leagues, which the Argyle passed within 2 miles on the south side, November 29th,
1834, in 10 fathoms. Captain Macdonald, of this ship, having been becalmed two
days in the channel, observed the appearance of many coral patches on the north
side, with several long reefs and high breakers between the islands ; it is therefore
advisable, that the south side of the channel be preserved, if possible, by ships passing
through.
Captain Forbes, of the American ship Lintin, October 24th, 1830, at noon, steering
N. E. for the passage between the South INatunas and West Island, was surprised to
see low land a-head, and had these bearings: — West Island from N. N.W. f W. to
N. W. 1 W., distant about 8 miles ; a rock off the IN. E. part of West Island N. by W.
I W. ; Haycock S. E. by S. ^ S. ; South Natuna group from E. | S. to E. by S. f S. ;
an island just visible from the deck E. ;|; N. ; nearest low land seen from the deck,
flat, and covered with trees, E. N. E. | N. ; low land seen from the niizen top N. f E.
to N. N. E. ; lat. 2° 35' N. by good observation in 24 fathoms water. Perceiving by
the bearings that these islands are not correctly laid down in the chart, hauled out to
the westward, and with some difficulty, on account of a north-west current, cleared
West Island on the western side, and steered for the Palawan Passage.
South Hay. SOUTH HAYCOCK ISLAND, in lat. 2° 13' N., Ion. 108° 57' E., is the most
rock Island. '
CHINA SEA. — ISLANDS NEAR THE MALAY PENINSULA. 311
conspicuous of those to the southward of South Natunas ; and the two small islands
St. Pierre, in lat. 1° 56' N., Ion. 108° 53' E., about G leagues distant from the Soutii
Haycock, are in one with each other, bearing E. i N. : a little outside these islands the
soundings are from 22 to 28 fathoms. About 3 miles S. S. W. from the largest island
St. Pierre there is a dangerous ledge of rocks with breakers on it, having 18 fathoms,
mud, when it bears North, about 2 miles' distance. There is another island eastward
of St. Pierre, near Tanjong Apee, the nearest part of Borneo.
The current at times runs strong among the South Natunas, according to the pre- Current.
vailing winds or monsoons : it has been experienced to run at the rate of 2^ miles per
hour to the northward, in the channel between Flat Island and High Island groups,
sometimes during the southerly monsoon.
LARKIN SHOAL, on which the ship of this name grounded in the night, April, Larkin sii<mi.
1820, was found to consist of rocks and breakers, and is in about lat. 2° 1 1' N., between
South Natunas and the coast of Borneo : at anchor near the edge of the shoal at day-
light, Tanjong Apee bore from South to S. by E., distant about 3 leagues, and South
Haycock Island W. ^ N. The soundings were very irregular in the vicinity of the
shoal : and breakers appeared to extend from South Natunas towards South Haycock
Island. The passage between South Natunas and the coast of Borneo seems not very
safe on account of these dangers.
PULO TINGY, in lat. 2° 17' N., Ion. 104' 11' E., bearing nearly W. S. W. from PuioTingy.
Pulo Aor 9| or 10 leagues, is the southernmost of the islands lying near the east coast
of the Malay peninsula ; it is conspicuous from a very high peak, which, rising gradu-
ally from the low land near the sea, terminates at the summit in a sharp spire or cone.
A chain of islets projects from the S. E. part of the principal island, about 3 leagues
to the S. S. Eastward, the outermost of them being a round bluff rock in lat. 2°8'N.,
and 4 or 5 leagues distant from the main. There is another small island inside, adjoin-
ing Pulo Tingy, which is on with the peak bearing N. N. E. ^ E. ; and N. W. by N.
from this small island there is a rock, about the size of a boat, off a bluff point on the
main, which forms the north extreme of a bay. From the N.VV. point of Pulo Baby,
which is an island of considerable size, and the nearest to the northward of Pulo
Tingy, the rock mentioned bears N. W. by N. f N. : this, and the other rocks near the
main, are not high above water.
The passage inside Pulo Tingy, betwixt its contiguous islets and the main land, is inside
considered safe in day-light ; with tolerably regular soundings of 6 or 7 fathoms near ^lannei.
the main, and 12 or 14 fathoms near Pulo Tingy. The course through is about N. W.
by N., but it would be dangerous to run in the night, on account of the numerous islets
and rocks, some of which are above water. On the north side of Pulo Tingy, in a
small bay, there are coco-nut trees, banana trees, and huts ; and a watering place at
the south end of the island.
ARETHUSA REEF, on which the brig of this name struck, at 11 p.m. July 15th, Aretim.a Keef.
1821, on her passage from Tringany towards Singapore, when working between Pulo
Tingy and the main, appears to be a reef under water, extending to the northward and
westward of a small islet, which bears W. ^ S. from the peak of Pulo Tingy, nearly in
mid-channel between Pulo Tingy and the main, antl having 10 fathoms water close to
it on the inside. When the vessel struck, the small islet was bearing S. S. E.; and after
backing the sails, she came off the reef immediately.
312 CHINA SEA. — ISLANDS NEAR THE MALAY PENINSULA.
PuioAor. PULO AOR, or WAWOOR, is in lat. 2° 29' to 2° 30' N., Ion. 104°34i'E., or
9°9y\V. from Grand Ladrone, by mean of many chronometers ; Captain Heywood
made it 2° 10' E. of Malacca, I made it the same, and 9 miles East of Pedra Branca,
by mean of chronometers in difl'erent voyages : and Captain C. M'Intosh made it also
9 miles East of Pedra Branca by chronometers. This island is generally adopted as a
point of deparhire, by ships bonnd to China, and they also steer for it on their return-
ing passage. It is small, but high and covered with trees ; being formed of two
hills, with a gap between them, it has the appearance of two islands when viewed at a
great distance, bearing N. E. or S. W., and resembles a saddle on a nearer approach ;
but when it bears to the N.W., the hills are in one. The easternmost hill is of round
form, like a dome, rather higher than the other, and in clear weather may be seen
15 or 16 leagues from the deck ; at such times Bintang Hill and Pulo Aor are visible
together, when mid-way between them. The bay on the S.W. side of the island affords
shelter in the N.E. monsoon, when the wind is between North and E. S. E. ; and here,
persons unacquainted with the entrance of Singapore Strait frequently anchor in dark,
hazy, blowing weather, until it becomes more favourable for running into that strait.
Close to the S. E. point of Pulo Aor there is an islet covered with trees, and another
contiguous to the N.W. point of the bay ; to the northward of the latter there is a third
islet, larger than those, separated from the north end of the principal island by a narrow
but probably deep gut.
If coming from the northward and intending to anchor in Pulo Aor Bay during N.E.
winds, pass on the west side the island, in order to fetch into the bay so far as the
watering place, which is a small running stream on the north side the bay. After
rounding the west side of the island, which is steep to, at any convenient distance.
To sail into the jjg^^j jj^jq j-}jg ]j^^y yjitil the Small island is on witli the N.W. point, and anchor in 20 to
15 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme bearing from N.W. to S. E. ^ E., offshore
about half a mile ; but sail ought to be reduced in time, because from 20 fathoms the
bank is steep, and it would be imprudent to shoal under 15 fathoms in a large ship.
The island is inhabited, and there is a considerable number of huts around the
bay ; tire-wood and some coco-nuts may be procured, but no other refreshments, ex-
cept water. Ships water with their own boats, for the natives, although shy of stran-
gers, are generally found to be inoffensive ; it is, however, imprudent to let the sailors
Tides. go up into the country. There is a rise and fall of tide about 5 or 6 feet perpendicular,
although the current in the offing sets mostly with the monsoon. Tlie depths near
Pulo Aor are from 32 to 35 fathoms to the northward and eastward, 24 and 25 fathoms
to the westward, decreasing to 16 or 17 fathoms towards Pulo Tingy, and to 21 fathoms
close to the south end of Pulo Pisang.
PuioPisang, PULO PISANG, or PAMBEELAN, in lat. 2° 37' N., distant about 5 leagues
N.W. by W. from Pulo Aor, resembles the latter when seen in hazy weather bearing to
the S.W. or southward ; for it is formed of two hills with a gap between them, giving
it the appearance of a saddle, but it is not so high as Pulo Aor. It is said, that water
may be got upon Pulo Pisang ; but ships seldom stop here, for it is not inhabited, con-
sequently affords no supplies. The bay on the S.W. side is similar to that of Pulo
Aor, with the exception of the islets ; the anchorage in the bay is in 18 or 19 fathoms
a mile offshore. A very remarkable perpendicular rock will be seen on the side of the
hill close to the sea.
Pulo Tiifloan. PULO TIMOAN, or TEOMAN, extends about 10 miles North and South, and
CHINA SEA. — ISLANDS NEAR THE MALAY PENINSULA. 313
is 4 or 5 miles in breadth ; the south end of it being in lat. 2° 44' N., bearing- about
N.VV. f W. from Pulo Aor 8 or 8^ leagues, and 10 miles distant from Pulo Pisang.
The northern extremity is in lat. 2° 54' N., and both the north and south parts are m
Ion. 104° 15' E. At a short distance from the N.W. end of Timoan tiiere is a group insuie channel
of four small islands, the northernmost of which is of round form, and lies in lat. 2°56'N. ; ^^^' ™'"'g"">"
the next to this has a flat appearance, and is larger than the others. Pulo Timoan
may be discerned 18 or 20 leagues in clear weather, and on its south end, two remark-
able peaks, standing- on one base, rise almost perpendicularly from the sea to a great
height ; they are called, from their aspect. Asses' Ears. There is a village on the S. E.
side of the island in a small sandy bay, with an anchorage in 20 or 22 fathoms,
sand, which may be used during fine weather ; but the bay on the S.W. side, in
lat. 2° J8i' N., affords the best shelter in the North-east Monsoon. If you intend to
anchor here when coming- from the northward, pass close round the N.W. end of
Pulo Timoan, betwixt it and the small islands, in which passage tiie depths are
24 to 20 fathoms, and it is 2 or 3 miles broad. Keeping about li or 2 miles from
the western shore of Timoan, the Avater will shoal gradually in the bay to 10 or 9 fathoms,
sand and gravel ; the best berth is in 15 or 16 fathoms, with the island bearing from
E. S. E. to N. N.W., and the middle of the sandy bay N. N. E. i E. There is a small
river on the east side of the bay, where boats can fill their casks, but a bar at the en-
trance prevents their going in and out at low water ; at a small rivulet on the N.W,
side of the bay, fresh water may be filled at all times. Firewood may be procured in wood, water,
abundance near the shore. Refreshments are not to be had here, the bay seldom being n''e'|,Js^'^'^^''"
inhabited, although in several parts of the island there are fruits, vegetables, and some
cultivation. There is also a stream of fresh water at thesouth end of the island, wiiich
runs over a stony beach into the sea, at the foot of the hill that .slopes down from the
Asses' Ears to the southward. From this watering place, the peak of Pulo Tingy
bears S. 0° W., centre of Pulo Pisang S. 50° E., highest part of Pulo Aor S. 54° E.,
a small islet in the offing S. 8° W., and the extremes of Pulo Timoan from East to
S. 68° W. These bearings were taken by Captain Wm. Richardson, when he watered
here in the Althea, in March, 1806. Ships seldom touch at this island, and persons
landing on it must be guarded against the deceit of the natives, and ought not to pene-
trate into the interior.
Along the west side of the island there are tides, the flood setting northward, and Tides.
the ebb to the southward, 1 or H miles per hour, at times ; high water at 6 hours on
full and change of moon, and the tides flow perpendicularly 7 or 8 feet.
Near the south end of Pulo Timoan there is a small island, and another small roclaj
island to the S.W., about 2 or 2^ leagues from the Asses' Ears, and the same distance
from the former island: the channel between these islands is very safe, with regular
soundings of 15 to 18 and 20 fathoms within H miles of the S.W. end of Pulo
Timoan. After pa.ssing between these islands, the depths are mostly 16 to 14 fathoms,
soft ground, in steering N. Westward through the channel, bounded on the east side
by the group of four islands oft" the N.W. end of Pulo Timoan ; and on the west side
by three small islands about 3^ or 4 leagues to the S. Westward of these. This
channel, on the west side of Pulo' Timoan, is generally from 2^ to 4 leagues wide, and
clear of danger, nor does there appear to be any around that island but what is visible
above water.
THE SOUNDINGS, in a N. N.W. direction from the north end of Pulo Timoan, f^";;;-;;'^^;;"^"
are generally 17 and 18 fathoms; N. by W. from it 10 or 11 leagues, 19 and 20 fathoms; **"""" ''
VOL. II. 2 s
314
CHINA SEA. — ISLANDS NEAR THE MALAY PENINSULA.
Sailing
Directions
Inner channel
along the
coast.
26 fathoms N. by W. about 4 leagues from it ; and nearly close to the northern extre-
mity of the island, 25 and 26 fathoms, which increase to 33 and 34 fathoms when it
bears South 15 or 16 leagues. When the north end of the island bears S. S.W. about
2 leagues, the depth is 25 fathoms ; when bearing West about 5 leagues, 27 or 28
fathoms ; these depths continue about 4 leagues from the east side, and until Pulo
Pisang bears VV. S.W. about the same distance : as Pulo Aor is approached, they
increase to 30 or 32 fathoms.
During the night, or in hazy weather, ships have at various times found themselves
close to the north end of Pulo Timoan, when they were well to the eastward of it by
the reckoning.
This may always be prevented when coming from the northward in thick weather,
by attending to the lead, and not coming under 32 or 33 fathoms when these islands
are approached. When in lat. 3° 30' N., it will be proper to keep out in 33 fathoms ;
and if you do not borrow under30 fathoms, you will pass several leagues to the eastward of
Pulo Timoan and Pulo Pisang ; but to pass outside of Pulo Aor, haul off into 33 or
34 fathoms, for there are 32 and 33 fathoms within 3 or 4 miles of the N. E. and east-
ern parts of this island.
The small islands to the westward of Pulo Timoan and Pulo Pisang are numerous,
some of them being close to the coast, but the greater part 2 and 3 leagues off it.
Betwixt these and the Malay coast there is a safe channel for ships of any descrip-
tion, by keeping along the coast at from 3 to 4 or 5 miles' distance, when passing inside
of these islands and the others adjoining to Pulo Tingy. The depths in this Inner
Channel are 8 to 11 fathoms, in the fair track, usually soft ground ; with a few casts
of sand in some places, about mid-way between Pulo Tingy and the main. With a
working wind you may borrow towards the main, generally to 7, and in some places to
6 fathoms, and stand off to 11, 12, and 13 fathoms. The channel is safe in the day,
but in the narrow parts, among the islands, it is prudent to anchor at night, because
some of the rocks or islets are very little above water : several ships have, neverthe-
less, proceeded through in the night.* There are tides here at times setting along
the coast, but currents predominate when the wind blows strong ; these run to the
southward in the North-east Monsoon, and in the opposite direction during the
southerly monsoon.
In lat. 2° 43' N., and bearing W. i S. from the south end of Pulo Timoan about 9 or
10 leagues, there is an island of considerable size near the main, with some small ones
to the N.W. of it, and others close to the shore. Close under the west side of the large
island is formed a safe harbour, with anchorage in 4 and 4^ fathoms, stiff mud, shel-
Biair Harbour, tercd from all wiuds, called Blair Harbour; which is easy of access, bypassing
close inside the small islands, or betwixt them and the north point of the large one ;
where the depth is 6 and 7 fathoms, decreasing to 5 and 4^ fathoms inside. Cap-
tain Pridham, R.N., who touched here September 8th, 1830, gives tiie following
description of a rock in the entrance of the harbour, not previously known. At
* The ships Seaton and Surprise, from China, November 11th, 1796, passed inside Pulo Varela, then steered
along the coast in soundings of 10 to 13 fathoms ; and in the night passed inside of Pulo Tingy, where they
had 9 to 7 fathoms, regular soundings.
The ship Laurel, from Tringany, worked to the southward through this Inner Channel September 18th and
19th, 1788, and was under sail part of the night, when to the northward of Pulo Tingy. The Asia and Sarah,
from China, bound to Bombay, passed along the Malay coast, through this Inner Channel, September 26th and
27th, 1803 : these ships prudently anchored during the night, when in the narrow part of the channel among
the islands.
The Margaret, September 20th, 1802, worked to the southward between Pulo Tingy and the main, standing
in to the shore within half a mile in 5^ fathoms, and off to 9 and 10 fathoms.
CHINA SEA.— ISLANDS NEAR THE MALAY PENINSULA.
315
anchor, well sheltered in Blair Harbour, discovered, on the falling of the tide, a
rock above water, about the size of a small boat, near the outer northernmost
island that forms the entrance into the bay or harbour, the extremes of which bear
N.|^ W. and N. N. E. ^ E. from it. There is deep water around the rock, 5, (j, and
7 fathoms, within a few yards, and a passage between it and the above-mentioned
island, which might be used with a leading wind. By digging wells 5 feet deep, about
20 or 30 yards from high-water mark, on the large island, plenty of good water may be
procured. There is good anchorage under some of the other islands farther out ; Cap-
tain Purefoy, in a gale from N. E., ran under one of them, which he called Shelter
Island -, here he remained at anchor in smooth water until the gale became moderate
and the weather clear.
bearing N.W.
4 leagues from
10 leagues from the north end of
Pulo Varelii,
and banks
adjacent.
PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 16' N
Pulo Timoan, is a barren rock 3j or 4 leagues from the main, crowned with a few
bushes, which may be discerned about 5 leagues off. There is a ledge of rocks even
with the water's edge, about l^or 2 miles nearly North from it, on which the sea breaks
in bad weather ; and about 2 leagues to the North and N. N. E. of it there is a rocky
bank with overfalls, jjrobabli/ not dangerous, for the least water on it is thought to be
about 5 fathoms.
It might have been this bank that we got upon in the Anna, October 9th, 1803,
returning from China. We were in 17 fathoms at sunset. Pulo Timoan in sight, bear-
ing S. S. E. ^ E., stood S.W. by S. with the wind S. Easterly, shoaling gradually to
13 fathoms at 9 p.m., and tacked : when about, steering E. ^ N., shoaled to 9 fathoms
hard bottom, then two casts of 7 fathoms rocky, next cast 15 fathoms, and for a short
time afterwards had overfalls from 1 1 to 13 fathoms, then deepened gradually in soft
soundings. By computation from our observations on the preceding and following
days, this bank, where we had 7 fathoms, is in lat. 3° 20' N., and bears N.40° W. from
the north end of Pulo Timoan about 11 leagues; but as Pulo Varela could not be
discerned, and being night, we had not the means of determining the exact situation.
The General Elliot anchored upon a bank, about 3 leagues E. ^ N. from Pulo Varela,
probably that last mentioned, which, by examining with her boats, was thought to ex-
tend North and South about 3 miles, and to be about half a mile in breadth. She had 18
fathoms before getting on the edge of the bank, and the least water found upon it was
6 fathoms coral rock. Betwixt it and Pulo Varela, regular soundings were found, 13
and 14 fathoms sandy bottom, and in some places mud. The bank will be avoided, by
keeping out in 20 or 22 fathoms.
The brig Margaret, in working to the northward along the coast, at two p.m.
January 31st, 1827, shoaled suddenly from 6 to 4 fathoms, in about lat. 3° 0' N., and
3 miles off shore. Tacked, had 3 fathoms in stays, and the sea broke about half a
cable's length to leeward, the wind being strong from the N. N. Eastward, with a
heavy swell. There are two conspicuous little hills on the low land, of regular form,
the northernmost of which bore W. by S., and the other S.W. by W., when the vessel
was in 3 fathoms, the trees close to the beach being then visible from the deck. Be-
tween the above-mentioned shoal bank and the shore, there appeared to be deeper
water ; but as the bottom is very irregular hereabout, great caution is requisite.
The channel inside Pulo Varela is considered safe ; for although the bottom is hard inside channel
sand in some places, the soundings are generally pretty regular, about 1 1 or 12 fathoms
Shoal near the
coast.
near the island and the rock to the
northward of it, shoaling gradually towards the
2 s 2
316
CHINA SEA. — MALAY PENINSULA, EAST SIDE.
main. About 9 leagues N. ^ E. from Pulo Varela there is a narrow baniv, with 6 and
7 fathoms water on it, distant 7 leagues from the coast, and extending from lat. 3° 44' N.
about N.W. by N. to lat. 3° 48' N.
In lat. 3° 51' N. and 50 miles West of Pulo Aor, Captain W. Owen, October 2nd,
1807, at 3 A.M. steering S. by E. ^ E., shoaled from 13 to 11, 9, 8, and 7^ fathoms,
hauled out E. S. E., and deepened fast to 8, 10, 12, and IG fathoms : being night when
he got these shoal soundings, the position assigned to them is by computation, but they
were probably on the bank last mentioned.
Howard Shoal. HOWARD SHOAL, in lat. 4° 14' N. or 4° 15' N., lies in 10 fathoms water, bearing
S. by W. about 30 or 31 miles from Brala, or Pulo Capas de Mer, called Tingorera by
the Malays ; and from the River Camaman, on the east coast of Malay, S. E. 4 E., dis-
tant 6 miles, was passed over by Captain Howard, August 31st, 1823, in the ship Janet
Hutton, of Singapore ; upon this slioal he got 3 fathoms, rocks, and was informed by the
Malay fishermen that there is only one fathom on its centre.
Eastcoastof THE EAST COAST OF THE MALAY PENINSULA, from Point Romania,
Malay. jj.g g j^ extreme, to opposite Pulo Varela, is mostly low and woody ; its general direc-
tion is N. N. Westward, and when clear of Romania Reef, is in most places safe to
approach by the lead.
Paimng. PAHANG, Or PAHAN RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 3° 31i' N., about 8 or 8|
leagues N.W. of Pulo Varela, was formerly a place of great trade, and is still frequented
by Chinese junks; but it is very shoal, and contracted by the sands, which project from
the low points on each side : Pahang Point bounds the river on the south side, and
has breakers stretching from it to N. N. Eastward nearly 1| miles ; a spit of hard sand,
with 3 or 4 to 5 and 6 fathoms, extends about a mile farther in the same direction, on
the west side of which small ships may anchor in 4| or 5 fathoms, clay and sand, off
shore 1^ miles, with Pahang Point South or S. ^ E. about 2^ miles. Large ships may
anchor at a greater distance from the shore.
From Pahang, the coast stretches nearly North to a point in lat. 4°6'N., having high
land near it, betwixt which and South Cape, about 5 leagues farther to the northward,
a bay is formed with some islands close to the shore, and Howard Shoal lies about
6 miles to the S. Eastward of South Cape,
Tingeran, TINGERAN, or TINGORAM RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 4° 45' N., is formed
close under the south side of Rocky Point, the latter being about 4^ leagues West from
Pulo Brala : this river is barred by rocks, and the coast between it and South Cape
forms several bays, separated by Middle Cape and North Cape : all these bays have from
9 to 10 or 11 fathoms water within 2 or 3 miles of the shore; but the projections or
capes are rocky. The River Pahang is small, and lies near to one of the capes men-
tioned above.
Between Pulo Varela and Tingeran, the coast is in general safe to approach to 8 or
10 fathoms ; but there are frequently overfalls of 1 or 2 fathoms in tlie offing, on ridges
that lie parallel to the coast ; and there are some spots of 7 or 8 fathoms sand and
gravel, with 9 fathoms inside of them.
A chain of mountains commences inland, nearly abreast of Pulo Varela, which
converges towards the coast near South Cape, and then extends along it towards
Tringany.
MALAY PENINSULA, EAST SIDE. — REDANG ISLANDS. 317
PULO BRALA, or CAPAS de MER, in lat. 4° 47' N., Ion. 103°37'E., bv clirono- I'l.io urai,.
meter, distant about 6 or 6^ leagues off the main, is of considerable size, and may
be seen 10 or 11 leagues : when it bears S. | W., its summit is flat, but appears in
hummocks when bearing S.W. and Westward. There is a black rock, 1 or 2 miles
distant from its southern extremity ; and the islet Capas Laut, with two or three rocks
near it, lie about 4 or 5 leagues Northward from its northern extremity ; which render
a close approach to PuloBrala dangerous in the night. Betwixt this island and the coast
opposite, about Rocky Point, the soundings are irregular in some places, and the bottom
rocky, or sandy ; but in other places, regular soundings are found over a bottom of soft
mud. The channel is about 4 leagues wide, and safe, by not borrowing under 11 or 10
fathoms towards the main, nor nearer to Pulo Brala than 19 or 20 fathoms. The depths
outside this island are 34 and 35 fathoms to the N.E. and Eastward, at 4 and 5 leagues'
distance.
PULO CAPAS de TERRE, or CAPAS DANAT, in lat. 5° 15' N., distant p»ioCapasde
about 3^ leagues S. Eastward from Tringany Road, called also Little Capas, lies near ^'^""*"
the main, 12 or 13 leagues N.W. from Pulo Brala; it is rather low, and there is no safe
channel for ships between it and the shore ; but a small vessel might venture through
in a case of necessity.
TRINGANY RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 5° 21' N., Ion. 103° 4' E., bears about Tringany.
N. N.W. 12 or 13 leagues from Rocky Point, and is a place of considerable trade,
where pepper, and sometimes a little gold, are procured. Here ships have seldom been
in danger of surprise, for the Rajah and government of Tringany were formerly more
friendly to strangers than those of other Malay ports. Water, provisions, fruits, and supplies,
vegetables, may be procured. The best anchorage for large ships is in 7 fathoms, with
the flagstaff S.W. by W., Redang Islands N. ^ W. to N. N.W. | W^, Pulo Capas de
Terre S. E. ^ S. 3 or 4 leagues, about 2 or 2i miles from the mouth of the river. Small
ships may anchor farther in shore, in 5 fathoms. The road of Tringany is considered
safe from March to September, but it- is prudent to leave it before the equinox,
although the gales from N. Eastward seldom are experienced until after the loth
October : these gales generally commence at westward, and veer round to N. E.
THE REDANG ISLANDS are mostly high, and form an extensive chain along Redang is-
the coast from lat. 5° 33' N. to about lat. 6° 4' N. ; the channel betwixt them and tiie ^^^^"^^
main is thought to be safe with 12 to 9 fathoms water; but that between the innermost
and the outer islands has 16 and 17 fathoms in it, and is better known. The Great Re-
dang, in about lat. 5° 50' N., is high, of considerable extent, having a harbour tit for
small vessels formed at its S.E. part, betwixt it and another contiguous island, in
which the depths are from 2^ to 5 flithoms. The soundings in the channel betwixt the
Great Redang Island and the main are regular, deepening from the latter to 17 fathoms,
sand and shells, with the Redang bearing from N. E. by N. to S. E. by E., distant
2 miles. Pulo Lantinga is 2^ or 3 leagues to the N.W. of Great Redang, and the
soundings mid-channel between them are 23 and 24 fathoms ; at H miles from the
N. E. side of Pulo Lantinga, the depth is 17 fathoms. Pulo Printian, in lat. 6° 4' N.,
distant about 6 or 7 leagues to the W. N. Westward of Great Redang, consists of two
high islands, separated by a narrow gut at their southern extremities, but opening into a
large bay to the northward. This bay is open to N. E. or northerly winds, but well shel-
tered from the South-west Monsoon ; the soundings decrease regularly from 15 fathoms
318
GULF OF SUM.
at the entrance to 5 and 4 fatlioms close to the shores on each side, and to 6 fathoms
close to a ridge of rocks at the bottom of the bay. Turtle are got in the sandy bay,
on the N. E. side ; also kimor, or large scollops, which Captain Cheminant, of the
Warren Hastings, found to be good food. Ott" the N. E. part of the northernmost
island are four small isles, one of them remarkable by having a round bluft' aspect.
caiantan and CALANTAN RIVER, formerly under the government of Tringany, but now
coast adjacent, u^je,. that of Siam, is in about lat. 0° 12' N., and 8 or 9 leagues VV. N.W. or N.W. by
W. ^ W. from Pulo Printian. Ships sometimes touch here to procure pepper; the
bar of the river is shoal, and a number of sand-banks lie inside, on which boats will
ground. In the road, at anchor in 5^ fathoms, mud, the observed lat. was b° 18' N.,*
with the river bearing South, extremes of the coast from S. E. by E. ^ E. to Panjong
Datoo N. W. by W. ^ W., off shore about 3 miles. The coast from abreast the Re-
dang Islands to this place may be borrowed on to 7 fathoms, soft regular soundings :
from Calantan, it stretches westward into the Gulf of Siam, but is very imperfectly
known beyond that place ; for although formerly there was a considerable trade car-
ried on betwixt Siam and various parts of India, it has for a long period been nearly
discontinued, owing to the desolated state of the kingdom of Siam, by frequent wars;
lately, however, trade has revived a little betwixt Siam and the British settlement of
Singapore.
GULF OF SIAM AND COAST OF CAMBODIA, WITH
THE ADJACENT ISLANDS.
To sail fi'om
southward to
Siam in tlie
South-west
Monsoon,
Tiitani Cape.
COMING from the southward, bound to Siam in the South-west Monsoon, keep out in
24 or 25 fathoms after leaving Pulo Timoan until you pass Pulo Varela: or pass inside
of these islands at discretion, if the weather be favourable. Afterwards, steer along the
coast inside Pulo Brala, as the wind hangs sometimes far w esterly ; and proceed
through the channel betwixt the outer and inner Redang Islands, keeping inside the
great one, then on the N. E. side of Pulo Lantinga and Pulo Printian.
If you pass outside the Redang Islands, haul in for the main after rounding them,
and proceed, at a moderate distance, along the coast which stretches between N.W.
and W. N.W. to Cape Patani, in about lat. 7° 4' N. From Calantan to this place, the
coast is low, forming several bays, and there are some contiguous islands ; inland, the
country is generally hilly or mountainous. In about lat. 7° 19' N., and 14 leagues from
Cape Patani, lies Pulo Lozin, an islet or rock,t which should not be approached in the
South-west Monsoon, for it is advisable to keep within a moderate distance of the western
* This latitude was observed by Captain Benners, of an American ship : but on September 3rd, 1802, the
Margaret anchored in 4| fathoms in Calantan Road, with the river's mouth bearing W. by S., off shore 2 miles,
the nearest of the Redang Islands, or Pulo Printian, E. S. E., and observed lat. 6° 11' N.
f By the Formosa's journal it will be seen that two detached islets or rocks exist in this place. " On the
8th November, 1679, passed near two rocks, that lie E. i S. and W. i N. of each other, distant about 8 miles,
in lat. 7° 17' N., which are not so far off shore as placed in the charts, nor can they be seen above 4 miles from
the deck, and the soundings about them are 26 to 28 fathoms, mud."
GULF OF SIAM. 319
coast ; the soundings about 2 leagues inside Pulo Lozin are 2G and 27 fathoms, de-
creasing regularly towards Cape Patani to 8 fathoms. Patani Bay is to the westward Patani Bay.
of the cape, and must not be approached on the eastern side, being very shoal ; the
anchorage is on the west side, where the bottom is soft. This was formerly a place of
considerable trade.*
From the west side of Patani Bay, steer along the coast in 12 or 14 fathoms, and
preserve the same depths in passing the Large Island of Tantalam, which appears as Xanuiam
part of the coast in coming from the eastward ; but Ligor Bay forms a deep concavity ^*'''"'*
on the west side of its northern extremity.
PULO CARA, in about lat. 8° 29' N., and 7 or 7^ leagues to the eastward of the PuioCara.
north point of Tantalam Island, is formed of a group of three islands near each other ;
the northernmost and largest has on the S.W. side a sandy bay, where there is said to
be a run of fresh water. The southernmost is only a large rock, of white appearance
when viewed from that direction ; about 2 cables' lengths from its southern extremity
there is a flat I'ock near the water's edge. The channel inside these islands is safe,
having from 14 to 18 fathoms water, about mid-way betwixt them and the N. E. end
of Tantalam.
PULO CARNOM, bearing about N. N.W., distant 32 leagues from Pulo Cara, I'uioCamom.
seems, at first sight, like two islands, the mountain that forms it having a gap, the low
land of which is only perceptible at a short distance. The soundings are 18 to 20
fathoms, steering in the fair track between these islands; before reaching Pulo Car-
nora, the Larchin Islands will be seen to the westward contiguous to the coast: Larchia
Til
they consist of a considerable group of small islands and rocks, and to the S. Eastward ^*" ^'
of them the high land of Point Carnom. The passage is to the eastward of Pulo
Carnom, which may be approached occasionally within 2 or 3 miles in 10 to 12
fathoms water.
PULO SANCORI, about 7 leagues N. W. by N. from Pulo Carnom, is nearly of puIo sancori,
equal height; and Pulo Bardia, about 8 leagues farther in the same direction, is also Bardia!"
a high island adjacent to the main. These islands need not be approached, but from
Pulo Carnom steer a north course towards Cin Point in about lat. 12° N., bearing cin Poim, &c.
nearly N. ^ E. from it about 40 leagues: the high mountains close over this point
make it visible at a great distance, and there are two small islands adjoining the ex-
treme point, which has a bay on each side. From abreast the bay on the north side of
the point, the coast extends about ]\ . N. E., having good soundings at a moderate
distance ; there is no danger in coasting along, until the road of Papery is approached,
to the southward of which a bank is said to project about 4 leagues from the shore,
requiring the lead to be kept going. If you do not stop at Papery Road, after passing
the bank mentioned, steer N. E. by E. and E. N. E. about 7 leagues, to anchor off
Siam Bar, making proper allowance for the tides.
MENAM, or SIAM RIVER, falls into the sea by several branches; the land that ^|^;^^="»:^,°[
separates them is low, and cannot be seen above 3 leagues off, but it is a little more '^I'^^s^'"
* The company's ship Globe anchored in Patani Road, in June, 1612, sailed for Siam in Au^^st, returned
from thence in a passage of eight days, in November, to Patani, where she remained during the N.E. INIonsoon :
she sailed again in March, 1613, for Siam, returned to Patani in September; and finally departed from the
Gulf of Siam for i\Ialacca Strait in October.
320 GULF OF SIAM.
elevated at the eastern branch, by ^vhich it may be known. This brancii has the best
navigable channel, although the bar has on it only 8 or 9 feet at low tide, and projects
about 1 J leagues out from the entrance ; there are 1.7 or 18 feet on it at high water
spring tides, and 19 or 20 feet in September, October, and November, when the river
inundates the low country by the rains. The entrance of the river, in lat. 13° 30' N.,
about Ion. 101° 15' E., is about a mile wide; and the anchorage is to the southward of
the bar about 3 or 4 leagues oft', in any depth thought proper ; under 3 fathoms the
bottom becomes hard towards the fishing stakes. •
Yathia. YUTHIA, or JUTHIA, formerly the principal city, is in lat. 14" 18' N., about 24
leagues up the river ; the Siamese were driven from Yuthia by the Burmans in 1767 ;
Bankok. the city of Bankok, the present modern capital, is about 9 leagues up, built upon an
island, in lat. 13° 58' N. by several observations of the stars, and in Ion. 100^ 34' E. by
an eclipse of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter, corresponding with a good chronometer. The
city is built on both banks of the river, but by far the larger part on the left bank.
Here the river is free from sand-banks, having seldom less than 7 fathoms water close
to each side, so that large vessels may be moored along its banks, with their yards
hanging over the shore. Bankok is one of the largest native trading cities in Asia,
and from March to June the river is crowded with not less than 100 junks, of all sorts
and descriptions ; many of them, of large size, trade to various ports of China, and
from 50 to 60 to tiie various ports of the Malayan Archipelago. The country produces
Produce. salt, cottou, sugar, pepper, teak, rose-wood, and many other articles. Tiie deepest
water on the bar is to bring the entrance of the river N. | W., then steer direct for it ;
but a vessel intending to proceed into the river ought to procure a pilot. A little way
inside, on the eastern bauk, there is a fishing village and guard-house, where ships
proceeding up the river are required to land their guns, ammunition, &c. From
thence the navigation is very safe to Bankok, and the soundings regular from 6 to 9
fathoms, mud.
Kosuhanp KO-SI-CHANG HARBOUR, distant about 26 miles from the mouth of Bankok
iiaiiM.iii. River, and bearing from it about S. E., is formed by a group of islands in lat. 13°12'N.,
Ion. 100° 55' E. : these islands are seven or eight in number, and are all small,
excepting two of them, called by the Siamese, Ko-si-chang and Ko Cram ; the
former being about 7 miles long and 3 miles broad, moderately high and hilly,
and clothed with trees. Ko Cram is about a fourth part of the size of the large
island, with a fishing village on it ; and a small white building or temple stands
on an eminence at the S.W. part of Ko-si-chang, erected by the Cochin-Chinese,
who touch regularly here for supplies of wood and water, during their trading voyages
to Siam.
The harbour, formed by the two large islands, is sheltered from the wind and sea in
every direction, except to the northward, from which direction there cannot be much
sea, on account of the proximity of the shoals at the head of the gulf. The best en-
trance into the harbour is from the northward, but there is also a passage to the south-
ward between the islands ; and as the anchorage is over a hard bottom in many places,
it will be proper for ships touching here to ride with chain cables. On the S.W. end
of the large island there is a fine stream of fresh water, at which a hundred casks may
be filled in one day : the stream issues from tiie hill on which the small temple stands,
and escapes to the sea in a little sandy bay, after passing through the bank of sand that
Tides. lines the beach. The rise and fall of tide is about 10 feet on the springs, and it runs
GULF OF SIAM. 321
strong through the harbour. The nearest part of the main is the high land of Bam-
pesoi, distant only a few miles from the harbour.
From Siam, ships bound to the southward generally depart in the Nortli-east Mon- Tosaiinom
soon : if they sail for Malacca Strait before the middle of September a tedious passage North'.'eas''/
may be expected ; and in such case the coast ought to Ije kept aboard the whole of the Monsoon.
way to the reef off Point Romania, in order to benefit by any favourable shifts of wind
from the land, or to preserve anchorage in moderate depths, when winds and currents
are adverse, which will often happen before October. When easterly winds blow
strong, the current sets into the Gulf of Siam along the western shore ; at all other Currents.
times, the freshes from the rivers produce an outset to S. E. or Eastward. And this
current sets fretjuently from 20 to 30 miles per day to the eastward, in the strength of
the South-west Monsoon, when the entrance of the gulf is open.
CAPE LIAM\ thought to be in about lat. 12° 34' N., distant 17 or 18 leagues cape uant
S. by E. from Siam Bar, is a projecting headland on the east side the gulf, having sWeoTth"'
groups of islands on both sides, considered safe to approach, and the whole of the &"if-
eastern coast is fortified by an extensive chain of islands. Cancao River, in about lat.
10° 5' N. to the eastward of Pulo Way, was formerly a Chinese colony, and a place of
some trade.
Departing from Siam Bar in the North-east Monsoon, steer a course to pass near
Cape Liant and the circumjacent islands, increasing the depth gradually to lo or 16
fathoms ; from abreast the cape steer about S. E. by S. for the islands of Pulo Way, in
lat. 9°5-y N., which are high and safe to approach. Proceeding from Cape Liant,
the depths regularly increase over a mud bottom to 35 and 45 fathoms in sight of
Pulo Way: if these islands are not seen when in their latitude, and the depth be from
45 to 50 fathoms, haul up E. S. Eastward to get a sight of Pulo Panjang, in about
lat. 9° 5' N.,* to the westward of which, at 5 leagues' distance, the depths are 28 to
30 fathoms. It is advisable to make this island, although Pulo Way, which is high
and encompassed with several islets, may have been previously seen. Having brought
it to bear about North, steer about S. by E. ^ E. for Pulo Aor, if bound to Malacca or
Banca Straits. In case of a westerly current, the lead will be a suflicient guide to
prevent getting near the coast, which ought not to be approached in this season to the
northward of Pulo Brala ; nor will it be advisable to see any land before making Pulo
Timoan or Pulo Aor, unless you pass through any of the channels to the westward
of these islands.
If you depart from Siam Bar in the South-west Monsoon, keep along the west side To sail from
of the gulf, then work to southward in the vicinity of the Malay coast, if bound to the gml^h'-west
Straits of Banca or Malacca. If bound to China, Cochin-China, or Manilla, steer to Monsoon.
pass along the west coast of the gulf as far as Cin Point, then steer S. E. to get a sight
of Pulo Panjang, attending to the currents, which generally set eastward in this sea-
son ; if this island is not discernible when in its latitude, an easterly course may be
steered until it is seen.
Having passed Pulo Panjang, steer a S. E. course for Pulo OI)y, distant from tiie
* A plan of these islands, made in the ship Hammody daring a voyage to Siam, places this island in about
lat. 9= 20' N. ; and it is necessary to observe, that the positions of the islands and coasts of the Gulf of
Siam are very imperfectly known.— Captain IMihvard, of the ship James Anderson, who professes to have
taken some pains to ascertain the position of these places, gives the following — Pulo Panjang, lat. 9° 17' N.,
Ion. 103= 40' E.; Pulo Way, lat. 9= 38' N., Ion. 102^ 52' E. ; Pulo Lozin, lat. 7- 29' N., Ion. 101= 59' E.
{Naut. Mag. 1840, p, 743.)
VOL. II. 2 T
322
GULF OF SI AM.
Watering
place.
former about 20 leagues, which ought to be rounded on the south side at a moderate
distance, on account of the ledge of rocks off it, having 17 fathoms water close to.
From Pulo Panjang, in the track steering towards Pulo Oby, the water shoals from
25 to 19 and 18 flithoms near the latter ; and on the N.W. side of this island it shoals
quickly from 15 to 5 fathoms, soft blue mud, mixed with gravel.
i'uiooi,). PULO OBY, in lat. 8° 25' N., Ion. 104° 54' E., by chronometers, distant about
5 leagues nearly S. from the S.W. point of Cambodia, which bounds the entrance of
Siam Gulf on the east side, is several miles in extent, and formed of different hills ;
but the mountain in the centre of the island, being higher than the other hills, may
be discerned 15 or 16 leagues There are a few families here banished from the con-
tinent, who subsist on vegetables and maize, which they cultivate. A stream of fresh
water issues from the top of the mountain, and descending on the north side the
island, empties itself into the sea at the landing-place on that side, where a ship may
conveniently fill 100 butts of water in a day ; but the best anchorage during the South-
west Monsoon, is on the east side the island, opposite a small bay, and to the north-
ward of a small island that lies off the S. E. end of Pulo Oby. There is a Ledge
of Rocks bearing E. S. E. ^ S. from the S.W. extremity of Puly Oby, distant 3 or
4 miles, about 40 fathoms in length, and only the height of a ship's hull above water,
with 17 fathoms within half a cable's length ; this would be dangerous to approach in
the night.
False Pulo FALSE PULO OBY, about 9 or 10 leagues to the N. N.W. of the former, and
."i^acem'^ '^'""' 5 or 6 leagues westward from the S.W. point of Cambodia, is a considerable isle, with
some small ones around ; a reef projects from the S. E. end of the principal island.
To the south-eastward of the point of Cambodia, a shoal flat stretches out a great
way from the coast ; but there is a safe channel, with from 6 to 8 or 9 fathoms, inside
Pulo Oby and False Pulo Oby, betwixt them and the flat that fronts the coast. The
tides are regular, and set strong East and West betwixt Pulo Oby and the main,
except when obstructed by strong winds. In the dry season there are junks employed
in carrying water from that island to the adjoining continent, where it is a scarce
article at times.
From Pulo Oby, if bound to Manila, steer to pass on the south side of Pulo Condore,
which bears E. | N. from Pulo Oby, distant 109 miles, taking care in the night to give
a proper berth to the Brothers, for the westernmost is a Jiare Rock, not much elevated
above water. From Pulo Condore, steer to pass on the south side Pulo Sapata, and
from this island N. E. until in lat 12° IN. : being then to the northward of the shoals,
steer direct for Manila Bay.
Ships crossing from the Redang Islands towards the coast of Cambodia in March,
ought to keep well to the eastward if possible ; for the current sets to the westward
about Pulo Oby into the Gulf of Siam durins; that month, and the winds prevail at
East and E. N. E.
Ships coming from the southward, in the South-west Monsoon, and bound to Cam-
bodia River, should endeavour to see Pulo Oby, or at least make the coast well to the
westward; those bound to Cape St. James' Bay, at the entrance of Sai-Gon River, ought
to pass on the west side of Pulo Condore, for tlie wind sometimes hangs far to the
westward. In a direct line from Pulo Brala to Pulo Oby the depths decrease from
35 fathoms, pretty regularly, to 20 fathoms, when the latter is bearing about North or
N. N.W. 6 to 8 leagues. If Pulo Condore is approached from the S. Westward, the
Tides.
To sail from
Pulo Oljy to
^Manil.i.
To approach
Cambodia
River and St
.Tames' Bay in
the South-west
Monsoon.
CAMBODIA COAST. 323
depths will decrease to 19 or 18 fathoms, when it bears about N. £. distant 20 leagues;
afterwards, 18 and 17 fathoms regular soundings will continue, steering close up to it Soundings.
on this bearing.
After rounding Pulo Oby, if bound for Cambodia River, haul to the northward until
near the coast, then proceed along it to the N. Eastward, keeping soundings from 8 to
10 fathoms. All the coast of Cambodia, from the S.W. to the N. E. point, is very low coast of can,-
land, inundated by the sea at times; and in most parts the trees are just discerned nearly rectionT'to the
level with the water's edge, from the deck of a large ship, at the distance of 3| or river.
4 leagues. The shoal banks which line the coast project 3 or 4 leagues from it in some
places, having 2^ and 3 fathoms sand on them, and G to 7 fathoms near their edges.
The soundings are very regular in the otfing, and decrease gradually until the edges of
the shore banks are approached ; then from 9 or 8 fathoms, the water shoals suddenly
in some places ;* the bottom near the edges of the banks, and also a considerable way
to seaward, is mostly fine sand and ooze.
As the coast is low without any conspicuous marks, it becomes necessary for a vessel
bound to Cambodia River to borrow on the edges of the banks, sometimes to 5, or even
to 4 fathoms ; but in doing so, great caution is requisite in a vessel of considerable
Ijurthen. Coasting along in 5 or 6 fathoms, the entrance of a river may be seen, where
the trees appear higher than in other parts of the coast ; from which Cambodia River
bears about E. N. E. 20 or 22 leagues. Steering from hence N. Eastward in the direc-
tion of the coast, the mouth of another river will be discerned ; and the coast there takes
an easterly direction as far as the river Cambodia.
As the coast here is very low and destitute of any particular mark, it must be ap-
proached pretty closely to observe its bearing ; when it changes from eastward to north-
eastward, the entrance of Cambodia River will be abreast.
CAMBODIA RIVER discharges itself into the sea by three principal branches, cambodia
the westernmost being the proper one for ships ; its entrance is in about lat. 9° 34' N., ^,'o"'jn"^^^t
and 18 leagues N. by W. from Pulo Condore. The sands projecting a considerable
way to seaward render the navigation into the river difficult, particularly as they are
liable to shift ; it is, therefore, prudent to anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms outside, until a
pilot can be procured, if you intend to proceed over the bar, the depth on which is
said to be 14 to 18 feet, hard sand, at high water spring tides, t Cambodia city or town
is nearly 80 leagues up the river, the trade to which has long been discontinued by
Europeans ; when the country became subject to the government of Cochin-China, the
trade of Cambodia was transferred to Sai-Gon. But it has lately been the theatre of the
war between the hostile governments of Siam and Cochin-China.
From the western branch of Cambodia River, the coast stretches N. Eastward to the
next branch, which is narrow, and called the Eastern Channel; thence northward to
the third branch, called the Japanese Channel, off which lies a small island, called
Crab Island. The coast about the mouths of Cambodia River may be approached to
6 or 7 fathoms ; the soundings are regular, and a sufficient guide in the night, the
bottom being uniformly soft. Betwixt Crab Island and Cape St. James, the coast
* In the Anna, from China, working along this coast in September, 1803, we had 9 J and 9 fathoms regular
soundings for upwards of an hour, steering W. N.W., and at noon observed in lat. 8'^ 58' N. the entrance of a
river, visible from the poop, bearing W. | N., the low coast nearly level with the horizon from the deck : had then
9 to 8 fc-.thoms at a cast; the helm was immediately put down, and had 7^ fithoms in stays.
t The Company's ships which traded to Cambodia in the I6th century frequently got aground in the river,
and it appears alwaj-s to have been an intricate navigation for large ships.
2x2
324 CAMBODIA RIVER. — ISLANDS.
continues low, forming a deep bight, with a shoal bank lining it, and projecting a
great way out from the low islands which separate the different mouths of Sai-Gon
River.
Puio condore. PULO CONDORE (called KIOUN-LUN by the Chinese), the centre of which
is in lat. 8° 40' N., Ion. 106° 42' E., by means of many observations : by chronometers
I made it 2° 7^' E. of Pulo Aor, and Captain Shepherdson made it 7° 2' W. from the
Grand Ladrone by chronometer.* The principal island of the group is about 3 leagues
in length N. E. and S.W.,from 2 to 4 miles in breadth, encompassed by several islands
much smaller, which are mostly all high, and covered with trees. The large island is
formed of a ridge of high mountains, t and is inhabited by people from Cambodia and
Cochin-China, who continue tributary to that government ; they reside in a village on
(Jreat Bay. the S. E. side of the island, where the Great BayJ is situated. This bay is fronted by
several islands to the southward and eastward, with soundings in it from 6 to 14
fathoms, but is rather exposed to easterly winds. There are three passages into it ;
that betwixt the south point of Condore and the same isles adjacent is very narrow :
that betwixt the east end of Condore and the islands opposite has the deepest water ;
the other, fronting the bay on the S. E. side, is the widest, with 4, 5, 6, and 7 fathoms'
water ; in entering it, the White Button and island on the N. E. side should be ap-
proached, for there the deepest water is found. The village is on a plain at the bottom
of the bay, and the inhabitants subsist chiefly on yams, pumpkins, fruits, and tish :
several years ago, the chief of the village had instructions from the king of Cochin-
China to furnish pilots to ships that touched there, and were bound to Cape St. James
Bay.
i>uio Condore The harbour of Pulo Condore is formed betwixt the west end of the principal
Harbour. island and an adjoining high island, sometimes called Little Conrlore, the S. E. point
of which nearly joins the principal one; but they are separated about half a league to
the northward, at which part is the entrance of the harbour: here, tlie depths are 10
and 9 fathoms, mud, decreasing gradually to 5, 4, and 3 fathoms near the flat that
occupies the bottom of the harbour, which is dry at low water. This harbour is well
sheltered by the surrounding hills, and fresh water may be procured on the east side
Tides. at a small bay, that on the western shore being brackish ; the tide rises 3 or 4 feet, high
water at 3 hours on full and change of moon. On the north side the entrance are
some islands, with a passage between the outermost and the others : nearly a league
E. N. E. from the N. E. end of Pulo Condore there is a barren white rock. These
islands abound with timber, but there are no articles of trade to be procured : the soil
being generally dry and unfruitful, the country unhealthy, and abounding with reptiles,
there is no inducement for strangers to visit this place; consequently, few ships touch
here. About 1-5 leagues S. E., from Pulo Condore, the variation was 1° 40' easterly
in 1805, and it appears to be at present from 1° to 2° easterly all over the China Sea.
The Brothers. THE BROTHERS are two small islands, about 2^ or 3 miles from each other,
and are on the same line, bearing N. E. by E. and opposite. The westernmost is a
* Captain Ross, in the Company's surveying ship Discovery, made Pulo Condore, 2° 3' E. of Pulo Aor, and
7° 4J' W. of tlie Grand Ladrone, by good chronometers.
t The highest part of Pulo Condore is about 1,800 feet above the level of the sea, by geometrical compu-
tation, for we saw it from the quarter-deck of the Anna, when 50 miles distant, just visible above the horizon.
J The English settled and built a fort here in 1702 ; and a few years afterwards, were almost all cut off in the
night, by Blacassar soldiers in their employ.
CAMBODIA COAST. — ISLANDS AND BANKS. 325
barren rock, not more conspicuous than Pedra Branca at the entrance of Singapore
Strait, and has high breakers on its eastern side, during l)lowing weather. The eastern-
most is a high round islet, with trees on its summit, bearing W. by S. from the centre
of Pulo Condore, distant 8 leagues.
THE SOUNDIiVGS, in a direct line from the Brothers towards Pulo Oby, are soundings near
mostly 14 and 15 fathoms, very regular; from 13 fathoms close to the Brothers on the ""^ '^""'•*'^-
inside, shoaling gradually towards the coast of Cambodia; 17 or 18 fathoms about 4
leagues outside the Brothers; 13 and 12 fathoms within 2 miles of them on the east
and north-east sides, deepening to 17 fathoms close to Pulo Condore. W hen Pulo
Condore bears N. by E. and INorth about 10 leagues, the soundings are 19 and 18
fathoms ; when N.W. 7 or 8 leagues, 20 to 21 fathoms ; West 12 leagues, 24 fathoms;
West 20 leagues, 27 fathoms ; and there seems to be soundings as for to the eastward
as to touch an imaginary line drawn from Pulo Sapata to the Natunas. Roundino-
Pulo Condore on the south and south-east sides within 2 to 3 miles' distance, we car-
ried regularly 17 fathoms ; at the same distance from the east end of it had ISfiithoms.
From 18 fathoms, near the White Rock oft' the N. E. end of Pulo Condore, tiie sound-
ings continue between 19 and 17 fathoms in a direct line to Cape St. James, until that
headland is approached. From Pulo Condore steering direct for the Great Catw ick,
the depths increase very slowly until within 12 or 15 leagues of the latter, tiien rather
quicker from 30 or 34 to 45 and 50 fathoms near the Catwick.
Although the soundings are usually very regular around Pulo Condore, to a great
distance in every direction, yet there appears to be some coral banks to the N. East-
ward, in the track towards the coast of Tsiompa, and one to the southward ; probably
none of them are covered with less than 5 or 6 fathoms water.
CHARLOTTE BANK is the first of these, situated in lat. 7° 11' North, Ion. charlotte
107° 36' East, or 54 miles East of Pulo Condore, by chronometer, w hich Captain Ask- ^^^'
with, of the Charlotte, grounded upon September 20th, 1807, returning from China to
Bombay: she passed within 6 leagues of Pulo Condore on the preceding day, and got
upon the bank at 10 a.m. ; the least water found on it was 4| fathoms, coral rock ;
and 40 fathoms close to.
" Steering South, under close reefs, blowing a strong gale at W. S.W., at 10 a.m.
coral rocks were perceived under the ship; the helm was immediately put a-weather,
to wear, and had 4f fathoms with the deep sea lead, w hen before the wind. In com-
ing to the wind on the other tack, there was so little water apparently under the bow ,
that 1 expected the ship would have struck in pitching: when round, had 8 fathoms;
and from the foreyard, a small spot appeared to the southward, with less water. From
the poop this coral bank appeared to extend about 2^ miles to the southward, and to
the eastward H miles ; in standing to the N.W., deepened fast to -40 fathoms."
December 15th, 1813, Captain Ross remained 1(J hours at anchor on this bank, while
the boats were sounding over it ; it was found to extend about 3 miles East and West
and 1| miles North and South, broadest at the western part : the least de|)th foimd
was 6|; fathoms on the N.W. point, where the water is discoloured. The latitude of
the bank observed at anchor was 7°5'N., Ion. 107° 39' E., or 3° 2|' East from the
east point of Pulo Aor, by chronometers. This bank will be avoided by keeping under
30 fathoms water when passing its parallel. There is a bank of hard ground in lat.
7°0' N., Ion. 107° 29' E., by mean of four chronometers, on which Captain F. Pellew,
326
CAMBODIA COAST. — ISLANDS AND BANKS. — TSIOMPA COAST.
in H. M. S. Phaeton, had 12 and 14 fathoms, steering N. E. by N. 2 miles ; probably
the Charlotte Bank.
Liuuci Banks. LAUREL BANKS, two in number, were sounded upon by Captain Cheminant,
in the ship Laurel, on his passage to China in April, 1787 ; he had 9 fathoms coral
rocks on the western part of one of these banks, which was the least water ; 22 to
24 fathoms near its edge, and he made it in lat. 9°30'N. A few days before, they
shoaled suddenly from 29 and 28 to 17 fathoms, rocks, on the N.W. edge of another
bank, in lat. 9° 27' N., computed from noon observation, probably part of the former
bank. To the N. N. Westward of these banks, in about lat. 10° 4' N., they shoaled
suddenly from 21 and 20 to 13 and 12 fathoms, rocks, upon another bank. As the
weather was unfavourable, and the ship beating against a N. E. wind, the tnie posi-
tions of these banks could not be ascertained, but they lie S. Eastward from Cape St.
James ; and it is possible that the southernmost bank was the Royal Bishop Shoal, as
the latitude when the ship got upon it was not correctly known.
Royal Bishop
Bank.
ROYAL BISHOP BANK is rocky and of considerable extent ; the soundings
near its edges are 32 and 34 fathoms to the S. Eastward and southward ; 2(i and 24
fathoms to the S. Westward ; and 29 or 30 fathoms to the N. Westward : from 10 to
17 fathoms, rocky bottom, are the common depths found upon it, and the least water
is thought to be 7 or 8 fathoms. The Gunjavar got on it at noon in lat. 9° 48' N., and
AO^ miles West from Pulo Sapata, by chronometer ; the Murad-Bux was on its south-
ern part in lat. 9° 40' N., and 1° 39' E. from Pulo Condore, by chronometer ; it there-
fore appears to be about 3 leagues in length North and South, and in Ion. 108° 21|^' E.,
bearing W.S. W. from Pulo Sapata, distant 44 miles.
It was probably upon the western edge of this bank that the ship Udney got sud-
denly into shoal soundings at midnight, May 8th, 1809, when bound from Bengal to
Manila. She was steering N. Eastward with a light easterly breeze, in soundings from
24 to 26 fathoms, and from this depth, the lead being hove only once every hour, had
7 fathoms ; tacked immediately, the ship just having steerage way ; next cast had
11 fathoms, then 14 fathoms, coral ; soon after 27 and 28 fathoms. When she tacked
in 7 fathoms, her position, by computation from the preceding and following noon ob-
servations, was in lat. 9° 47^' N., Ion. 108° 8' E., by chronometer.
THE COAST OF TSIOMPA, WITH THE CATWICKS AND
OTHER ISLANDS.
Cape St.
James.
CAPE ST. JAMES, in lat. 10°17'N., Ion. 107° 4' E., or 1° 58' West* from Pulo
Sapata by chronometers, bearing from Pulo Condore N. by E., distant 33 leagues,
forms the eastern boundary of the bay and channel leading to Sai-Gon River. It is
the first high land seen in coming from S. Westward, the whole of the coast from thence
* CaptainRoss made it in this position, by correct observations taken on shore; Captain C. Mackintosh made
it a few miles more easterly.
CHINA SEA. — ^TSIOMPA COAST.
327
to the Gulf of Siam being very low drowned land : the mountain that forms the cape is
intersected by low gaps, and appears like three islands when first seen at the distance
of 10 or 11 leagues ; but on a near approach, the low land that forms these divisions is
perceived.
When bound to Cape St. James Bay, in the South-west Monsoon, pass to the westward To approach it
of Pulo Condore, having previously made allowance for a current setting out of the Gulf ^,"f bay """
of Siam, whilst crossing the entrance of that gulf. When the body of Pulo Condore is
bearing about South, steer North, or N. h W. if an easterly current prevail, which will
soon bring you on the edge of the bank that fronts the mouths of Cambodia River, and
extends to tiie entrance of Sai-Gon River. Steer then northward along the edge of the
bank, keeping in 8 or 9 to 11 or 12 fathoms : if the water shoal under 7 or 8 fathoms,
haul to the eastward and it will immediately deepen, the soundings being regular on
the edge of the bank. When Cape St. James is approached within or 7 miles, with
the wind westerly, steer along the edge of the bank in 7 to 9 fathoms, until the cape
bear about N. E., then stand for it, and keep within 1 or H miles of the land, in pro-
ceeding to the anchorage in the bay. About 4 or 5 miles South from the pitch of the
cape there is a small bank, on which Captain Purefoy had .3 fathoms, hard ground ;
the preceding track to the westward of it has been recommended with a scant westerly
wind, to prevent getting to leeward of the cape. With a S.W. or Southerly wind, pass
to the eastward of the small bank, by bringing the cape to bear N. N.W. when 3 or 4
leagues distant, and steer for it on that bearing ; when it is approached, keep near the
western shore of the cape, which is bold to, and safe to borrow upon, from the pitch of
the cape to the low green valley witii coco-nut trees, at the eastern part of the bay of
Cape St. James ; ships may anchor in from 5^ to 7 fathoms, good holding ground. Anchorage.
with the village bearing E. S. E. The bottom in the channel is mud, but upon the
edge of the bank that bounds the western side it is hard ; the water also shoals sud-
denly on this bank in some places; it ought, therefore, not to be borrowed upon : with
the cape E. by N. ^ N., and the village N. £. |- E., there is a spot of 6 to 4 fathoms,
irregular soundings. There is no good water to be got at the village ; ships in want
of it must send to Gagneray River for it, round the point about ^^ miles to the
northward.
Pilots may be had at the village, when ships intend to proceed upSAi-GoN River,
the entrance of which is about 5 miles W.N. Westward from Gagneray Point: it
is an excellent river, with depth sufficient for ships of any description. The city of
Sai-Gon* is in lat. 10° 50' N., Ion. 100° 43' E. The King of Cochin-China has here
a foundry for casting cannon for his ships, &c. ; this being his grand marine depot,
where vessels of war are built, the country abounding with timber and other necessary
articles for building. The Portuguese have carried on a constant trade from INIacao to
this place for many years ; and some English ships have endeavoured to trade here,
and at other parts of Cochin-China, but without advantage.
Cape St. James Bay is called Vung-tau by the natives ; the tide rises 8 feet perpen-
dicular, and runs pretty strong on the springs, high water -at 11 hours on full and
change of moon. Although the cape is steep on the west side, there is a small islet
close to it on the S. E. side, and with the cape bearing between N.W. by W. and
W. N.W. it should not be approached nearer than 2 or 3 miles, for there are o fathoms,
hard ground, about 1 or 1^ miles from it, with these bearings.
Sai-GoH Kiver.
Tides.
CAPE TIWOANE, or THl-WAN, bearing E.N. E. from Cape St. James, distant c«i.e Tiwoane
' ' o • j,„d coast adja-
• Called Luknooi by the natives. cent.
328
CHINA SEA. — TSIOMPA COAST.
Point Bakeck
and tlie bank
fronting it.
Directions.
Cow Island.
about 13 miles, is high, terminating a chain of hills that stretches to the northward ;
the coast is low close to the sea, and in the middle of a flat sandy shore, betwixt these
capes, lies the entrance of Cua-lop River, which running inland, unites with Gagneray
Bay, opposite the entrance of Sai-Gon River. Cua-lop River is navigable only by
boats, or small vessels drawing 6 feet water. In passing along this part of the coast,
do not come under 10 fathoms, for the water shoals suddenly to 6 fathoms, sand, with
Cape St. James W. by N. | IS'., Cape Tiwoane N. E. ^ N. to N. E. f N., distant 7
miles, and Point Bakeck N.E. byE. You may occasionally anchor on either side
of Cape Tiwoane, in 7 fathoms water.
POINT BAKECK, or BA-KEU, is of middling height,, and bears from Cape Ti-
woane about N. E. by E. ^ E., distant 19 miles, the coast between them forming a con-
siderable
this
bay, in which there is a small river, called Chitram ; from the entrance of
river to Point Bakeck, a dangerous bank projects 4 or 5 miles from the shore,
having only 2 or 3 fathoms on its southern edge in some places, and overfalls from 7
to 3 fathoms farther in, towards the shore. To avoid this bank, after passing Cape
Tiwoane at 4 or 5 miles' distance, steer about E. N. E. to keep 6 or 7 miles ofiT shore,
in soundings of 9 to 11 fathoms, until Point Bakeck bear about North. There are some
overfalls in this track, particularly near the edge of the bank, the water shoals suddenly
over a hard bottom ; but out in 10 or 11 fathoms the bottom is generally soft, and the
soundings pretty regular. When Point Bakeck bears N. by W. or N. by W. i W. about
(j miles distant, and being in 10 or 11 fathoms, steer N.E. for Cow Island, which
bears from that point about N. E. i E., distant 17 miles : it is a small round island, in
lat. 10° 39' N., with trees upon its summit, and is safe to approach, the depths de-
creasing regularly towards it. On the east side Point Bakeck there are also good
soundings.
Britto Shoal.
Position.
BRITTO SHOAL, named after a Portuguese captain, who suffered shipwreck
upon it, was very imperfectly known, until Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Sur-
veyor, examined it, March 29th and 30th, 1817 ; he describes it as follows. Discovery,
March 29th, at 50 minutes past noon, with Cow Island bearing N. 4f° E., having
shoaled at a cast from 12 to 9 fathoms, sand, and judging we were near Britto Shoal,
anchored, and sent the boats to sound in a N. E. direction, where they deepened again
into 11 and 12 fathoms ; but on proceeding more to the eastward, the small cutter had
3 fathoms on a shoal bearing from the ship N. 58|^° E., distant about 3 miles. The
Investigator had been beating about to the southward of our anchorage, and never had
less than 11 fathoms water. At 3 p.m. weighed, and stood to the N.E. until we
thought ourselves abreast the west end of the shoal, then anchored in 11 fathoms on
a fine sandy bottom, with Cow Island bearing by azimuth compass N. 11° 42' W. ;
true bearing 9° 43' W., a rock which appears detached, and forms the extreme of Point
N. 41°44' ~ " ■" "
Ke-ga bore true N. 41° 44' E., the small cutter in 2 fathoms about 1 mile from the
ship bore S. 6^° E., another boat in 2 fathoms about 1^ miles distant bore S. 17^ E.
On examining the shoal in the boat, it was found to extend 1^ miles in length E. N. E.
and W. S.W., and its breadth does not exceed one-third of a mile. The usual depths on it
are 4 or 5 fathoms, and only upon a large patch of rocks about the middle of the shoal
is there so little as 2 fathoms ; from which shoalest part. Cow Island bears by com-
pass N. 11°45'W. By careful observations taken on board the ship at anclior, made
the lat. 10° 31' 27" N., and the chronometers measured 1° 13' 40" West from Pulo
Sapata to our anchorage, which places the centre of the shoal in lat. 10° 30' 42" N.,
CHINA SEA. — TSIOMPA COAST. 329
Ion. 107° 49' E. Sounding in every direction near the shoal found the depth about
half a mile all round it, from 7 to 9 tiithoms, increasing to 15 fothoms about U miles
to the eastward, and to 17 fathoms about 3^ miles in the same direction. The Inves-
tigator was employed beating round the shoal to the southward and eastward, to ascertain
that no other patches existed.
To avoid Britto Shoal, on the outside, keep 5 leagues from the coast when abreast To pass out-
the bank, and do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms ; but at that distance from the coast, shtar*^''"^^
it will be sometimes difficult to see land marks, to know when clear of the bank ; there-
fore, vessels bound from Cape St. James Bay along the coast, or those approaching that
bay from the eastward, may proceed through the inside channel ; but persons unac-
quainted ought only to do so with proper precaution in day-light.
Having passed Point Bakeck at miles' distance, steer N, E. as before mentioned, to To pass
proceed inside Britto Shoal; the best track is to keep in mid-channel, in soundings inn°e"/channei
from 8 to 9 or 10 fathoms, and pass Cow Island at 3 to 5 miles' distance. The depths
decrease towards Cow Island and the main to 7 and 6 fathoms ; and from 9 fathoms in
mid-channel, they increase to 11 or 12, and usually decrease again to 9 or 10 fathoms
close to the edge of Britto Shoal.
•"s"-
POINT KE-GA, in lat. 10° 42' N., Ion. 108° 4' E., bearing from Cow Island Point Ke-pa.
E. by N. about 11 or 12 miles, projects a long way out, by which a great bay is formed coast ''"^^"'
on each side : this point resembles an island when viewed at a distance, being joined
to the main by a low narrow causeway, formed of a rocky mass, which has the singular
appearance of a city in ruins. The point is safe to approach, but it must be kept
to the northward of East, in coming from Cow Island towards it, on account of a
bank projecting from a village on this side. In the bay betwixt Point Bakeck and
Point Ke-ga, the land is low and woody in some parts near the sea, w ith several small
rivers : inland, the country is high, and the regular sloping mountain called Taicou, Mount Takou.
in lat. 10° 45' N., stands directly over Point Ke-ga, bearing from it IS.W. ^ N., and the
point is formed by the foot of this beautiful mountain, which is visible a great way from
seaward, being the most conspicuous land in this part of the coast, and detached from
any other high land.
POINT VINAY, bearing from Point Ke-ga, N. E. i E., 19 miles distant, is en- Point vi„ay.
compassed by a small bank on the west side, inside of which there is good anchorage
in 5 fathoms, opposite a fishing village in the small bay formed on tiie west side of the
point. The Bay of Phuiay is formed by the land trending northward from Point
Ke-ga to Phuiay River, and fiom thence eastward to Point Vinay ; abreast tliis river,
at a considerable distance from the shore, there is anchorage in 5 or (5 fatlioms, and the
entrance of the river may be known by an islet formed of a mass of rocks, at a consi-
derable distance froiTi it. Tiger Island is separated from the shore on the east side of Tiger island.
Point Vinay only by a passage for small boats, being situated close to the point;
although covered with birds' dung, it is not conspicuous, and only perceived when a
ship is near the land. The coast hereabout is speckled with alternate patches of sand
and verdure.
MUI-GUIO, or LITTLE CAPE, bearing N. E. f E. from Point Vinay, distant Mui-Guio.
about 10 miles, forms the south point of the Bay of Phanry, and is known by a higii,
steep scmd hill close to the sea; between these points, the coast is moderately elevated
and steep to seaward, having 10 and 11 fathoms water near it. Prom Mui-Guio,
VOL. II. 2 V
330
CHINA SEA. — TSIOMPA COAST.
Point Legan.
Pulo Ceicer
de Terie, and
adjacent coast.
Breda Bank.
Cape Fadaran.
Gap in the
land.
the coast stretches nearly North to the entrance of Phanry River, and is of a reddish
colour : a vessel may anclior in fathoms about a lea<i:ue off shore, but the bar of the
river is only navigable by boats on the flood tide. Phanry is a large fishing village,
whose numerous boats* are seen fishing in the ofiing, sometimes at a considerable
distance from the shore.
POINT LEGAN, situated in lat. 11° 9' N., and bearing E. 16° N. from Mui-Guio,
distant about 5 leagues, is a narrow and low neck of land, projecting a considerable
way into the sea ; on the west side there is a small bay with a fishing village, where is
good anchorage for small vessels. There is also a small village to the northward of
Point Lagan, where vessels may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms.
PULO CEICER DE TERRE, called HON-CAU by the natives, distant about
8 or 9 miles E. 30° N. from Point Lagan, is in lat. 11° 13' N., Ion. 108° 48' E., or
4° 56' West from the Grand Ladrone, and 4° 13^' East from Pulo Aor by chronometers ;
this is a low island, extending nearly E. N. E. and W. S. W., having near its centre a
mass of rocks higher than the other parts, which is discernible about 5 leagues from
the deck of a large ship. When first seen, it appears like a small peak or spire, and
sometimes like a boat's sail ; the whole of the island is rocky and barren, but a little
grass or green moss may be perceived on the flat part. The two low extremities of
the island are encompassed with rocks, which project out above and below water to a
considerable distance ; there are also some rocks above water on the south side ; but as
the danger is generally visible, the island may be approached in the day within 2^ or
3 miles. In the night, it ought not to be approached so close, for then the island
cannot be perceived unless it be very near.
The coast behind this island forms a deep and extensive bay, stretching from Point
Legan to the land of Cape Padaran ; and the high land of Ceicer to the N. West-
ward and Northward of the island, is very mountainous close to the sea. Betwixt
Pulo Ceicer de Terre and the N. E. side of the bay, opposite the Gap of Padaran, lies
the Breda Bank, having 4 fathoms, coral rocks, on its eastern edge, and there is said
to be mucli less water to the westward ; it is not in the way of ships passing outside
Pulo Ceicer de Terre, unless with a working wind they stand far into the bay betwixt
that island and the land of Padaran. Inside the island there is a channel, with sound-
ings of 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, between it and the bank mentioned above, which is some-
times frequented by the native coasting vessels.
CAPE PADARAN, called MUI-DIN by the natives, in lat. 11° 21' N., Ion.
109° 0' E., or 4° 44' West from the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, bears about N. E.
f E. from Pulo Ceicer de Terre, distant 5 leagues. It is high land, steep and convex
to seaward, forming the projecting part of the continent to the S. E. The high land
of Padaran is joined to the adjacent mountain of Ceicer by a neck of low level land,
visible only when near the shore on the south side the cape, but seldom seen at the
distance which ships usually pass : this gives the land of Cape Padaran an isolated
appearance when approached from S. Westward, and it has a similar aspect in coming
from the northward. The neck of low land forms a very deep gap between the land
of Padaran and the mountain to the westward, and this gap or chasm in the land is
generally called the Gap of Padaran, and by the natives Can a. It is very conspicu-
* These boats, and others of Cochin-China, sail fast, and have great stability, being safe in a high sea ; their
sails are of a triangular form, constructed of light mats.
CHINA SEA. — TSIOMPA COAST.
331
ous at a great distance, and serves as a mark to avoid Holland Bank, and to point out
the direction of Pulo Ceicer de Terre, this island being on with the Gap, bearing from
JS. by E. i E. to N. by E. i E.
SOUNDINGS do not extend far out from Cape Padaran, it being a steep headland, soundings.
bold to approach, having from 25 to 30 fathoms very near the shore : when it bore
W. by N. i N., distant 2 miles, and Pulo Ceicer de Terre W. by S. f S., we had no
ground at 40 fathoms ; with the cape N. by E. | E., and Pulo Ceicer de Terre W. i S.,
we had ground 25 fathoms, about 2 miles off the bluflT land of Padaran. About half-
way betwixt the Cape and Pulo Ceicer de Terre, the depths begin to decrease to 20,
17, and 14 fathoms irregular soundings, when within 4 or 5 miles of the island. The
soundings about Pulo Ceicer de Terre, being in general irregular, are not always a
sufficient guide in the night, to shew the proximity of the island : for although near it,
the water shoals to 9, 8, or 7 fathoms, there are also overfalls from 17 to 10 and 8
fathoms in some places, at the distance of 2, 3, or 4 leagues to the southward of the
island. When it bears North about 4 leagues, there are overfalls from 18 to 12
fathoms, and the depths are very irregular with it bearing between North and IN. by
E. : the Althea got on a bank of 8, 7, and 6h fathoms, with Ceicer de Terre bearing
N. by E. ^ E. just in sight from the deck, and Point Lagan N. by W. ^ VV. A
little farther to the westward the soundings become more regular, decreasing in depth
gradually towards the coast, and increasing to 23 or 24 fathoms near Holland Bank.
The channel bounded by this bank in the offing, and by the coast of Pulo Ceicer de
Terre on the inside, is 7 leagues wide; ships working through it in the night ought
not to stand farther out than 22 or 20 fathoms, for the depths close to the edge of
Holland Bank are from 23 or 24 to 25 or 26 fathoms in some places.
HOLLAND BANK was examined by Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Holland Bank.
Surveyor, in April, 1817, and is thus described in his journal: — Discovery, April 1st,
after having crossed over Holland Bank twice, anchored on its southern extremity in
8 fathoms, and observed the lat. 10° 37' 15" N., the chronometers placing us at the
same time 51 miles East of Britto Shoal, and 22f miles West from Pulo Sapata, or in
Ion. 108° 40' E., from whence the S. Western Hillock on Pulo Ceicer de Mer bore
S. 77f° E., distant 15^ miles; and the Peaked Rock bore N. 87^° E., distant* 12
miles. After weighing, steered over the bank N. E. by N., and by the log, found its
length to be 3^ miles in that direction. When the S. Western Hill of Pulo Ceicer de
Mer bore from S. 64° to S. 66° W., we passed over the shoalest ridge in 4 fathoms,
but in the morning had 3| and 3^ fathoms on the same part: when the S. Western
Hill bore S. 58° E., we began to deepen off the siioal to the northward in 16 fatl)oms.
If Pulo Ceicer de Mer is not brought to the eastward of S. E., it appears that a ship,
in steering towards it with these bearings, would clear the northern extremity of
Holland Bank. The western part is verv dangerous for large ships, when the centre Dangerous
of Pulo Ceicer de Mer bears between E."by S. and E. S. E.\ibout 5 or 6 leagues dis- Z^^""^'
tant, and tlie loiv part of the island that unites the two hills mjust visible from the deck
of a large ship, the elevation of the eye being about 22 feet. The soundings close to
this part of the bank are 23 and 24 fathoms ;" and by standing on the edge of it, when
under 20 fothoms, they decrease, in a few cables' lengths, to 10, 6, and 3^ fithoms,
rocks, in several places. If, however, the lead be attended to, and hove (juickly, it
* The distances were obtained from a base line measured by sound between the two vessels 4 miles apart,
the Investigator at anchor in 24 fathoms water, bearing from the Discovery N. 16° 40' W.
2 u 2
332
CHINA SEA. — TSIOMPA COAST. — ISLANDS.
Directions to
aroid Hollatul
Bank.
To sail
through the
channel inside,
and along the
coast.
will point out the edge of the bank, before a ship gets into danger; and this seems to,
hold good, in the approach to the bank on both sides.
Tiie fleet from China, in January, 1805, by steering too far southerly from Cape
Padaran, got on the western part of Holland Bank, and the Canton, Glatton, and
H. M.S. Grampus, struck, although at a considerable distance from each other; the
latter ship drawing 20 feet, struck hard several times, had 22 feet water by tlie lead,
and was lifted over the rocky pyramids by the swell. These ships struck in lat. 10° 38'
to 10° 41' N., the Gap of Pandaran bearing N. 10° E., the sand hill on Mui-Guio about
N. N.W., Mount Taicou about W. by N. ^ N.,* and the centre of Pulo Ceicer de Mer
E. byS. :|;S. from the southernmost ship, and E. S. E. from the northernmost, esti-
mated distance 5|, 6, or 6^ leagues, the low part of that island which joins the two hills
plain in sight from the quarter-deck.
To avoid the western part of Holland Bank in clear
Ceicer de Mer more than to have the summits of the two hills visible from the poop of
a large ship, when the island is bearing betwixt E. ^ 8. and S. E. ; for if the low part
of the island between the hills be in sight from the poop, bearing from E. by S. to
E. S. E., you will be near the edge of the bank.
When bound to China, by the Inner Passage, steer from Pulo Aor to pass close on
the east side of Pulo Condors ; from thence, a N. E. by N. course will carry you out-
side Britto Bank, and in the fair channel between Holland Bank and the coast, if there
be no lateral current. The best guide in the night is not to approach the coast under
It) or 17 fathoms until certain of being to the eastward of Britto Bank, nor to deepen
above 20 or 21 fathoms towards the western part of Holland Bank ; the fair track be-
twixt tliese banks, and between the latter and the coast, being from 17 to 20 fathoms,
until irregular soundings are got in the channel to the southward of Pulo Ceicer de
Terre.
weather, do not raise Pulo
Pulo Ceicer de
Mer.
Rocky islet.
Channels.
PULO CEICER DE MER bears from Pulo Ceicer de Terre S. by E., distant 41
miles, its centre being in lat. 10° 32|^' N., Ion. 108° 53' E., and it is 4 or 5 miles in
extent nearly N. E. and S.W. There are two small hills which form its extremities,
one of them sloping, the other conical ; and as these are discerned before the level
land in the centre of the island, they appear sometimes like separate islands ; they may
be seen in clear weather about 8 leagues' distance from the deck of a large ship.
Some rocks, with a reef, project about a mile from the north and S. E. parts of the
island ; and a rocky islet high above water, lying about 4 or 5 miles oft' its N. West-
ern part, may be seen at 4 leagues' distance. The island is easy of access on the west
side, where a ship may anchor occasionally ; it is well cultivated, and inhabited prin-
cipally by tishermen, who pay an annual tribute in salt tisii and birds' nests, to the
King of Cochin-China. The soundings extend a very little way to the eastward of the
island.
The channel between Pulo Ceicer de Mer and Holland Bank is from 3 to 4 leagues
wide, and appears to be safe : several ships, in passing through it, have found the
soundings irregular, from 12 to 9 and 8 fathoms, rocky, when they borrowed on the
edge of Holland Bank ; but on hauling towards the island, they always got into more
regular depths of 18, 20, and 24 fathoms ; the Milford had from 24 to 26 fathoms, in
passing on the w est side of the rocky islet, at about 2 or 3 miles' distance. The passage
betwixt this islet and Pulo Ceicer de Mer seems also safe ; for the American ship
* Perhaps W. I N.
CHINA SEA. — CATWICK ISLANDS. 333
Devotion went through it in 1803, and .saw no appearance of danger. To the north-
wtird of the island, the depths increase to .3-') fiithoms, and decrease to 17 fathoms when
it is just visible from the deck bearing about S. S. E.
PULO SAPATA, or SHOE ISLAND, bearing from the centre of Pulo Ceicer PuioSapaia.
de Mer about S. by E. ^ E., distant 33 miles, is in lat. 10° 0' N.,* Ion. 109° 2i' E., or
4° 28' E. of Pulo Aor, 4° 41^' West of the Grand Ladrone, and 22 miles West from
Cape Varela on the coast of Cochin-China, by mean of many excellent chronometers.
It is the easternmost of the three islands that go by the name of Catwicks, and may
be seen 10 leagues from the deck of a large ship : it appears to be a high, inaccessible
barren rock, frequented by numerous birds. When viewed in some directions it re-
sembles a shoe, at other bearings it seems a large square column, and when bearing to
the westward it assumes the form of a pyramid. Ships generally endeavour to see this
island, or to pass within 6 or 8 leagues of its eastern side, in proceeding to, or from
Manila, or to China by the Outer Passage. With Pulo Sapata bearing VV. 8° N. dis-
tant three-quarters of a mile, the Discovery had 35 fathoms, and with it bearing South
three-quarters of a mile, she had 31 fathoms, sand and coral.
THE PYRAMID, or LITTLE CATWICK, about 2 miles N.W. by W. from LiweCatwick.
Pulo Sapata, is a small barren rocky isle, the peak of which may be seen about 7
leagues: a reef was thought to front it, until Captain Ross examined this, and the ad-
jacent islands and dangers, in March and April, 1817; he could not perceive any
danger near the Little Catwick, nor in the channel between it and Pulo Sapata, as
will be observed by the following account, taken from the journal of the surveying
ship Discovery.
March 27th, a little past noon, having Pulo Sapata bearing South about three-quar-
ters of a mile, passed between it and the Little Catwick, and sent the Investigator to
examine the north side of the latter. At 50 minutes past noon, we were in (J5 fathoms
water in mid-channel between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick, without any ap- cimnnei i.t-
pearance of danger whatever ; when the latter bore N. by E. about one mile distant, pu'io"saV«^
we steered N. N.W. to pass its west end, and fell in with the Investigator coming clo.se
round its northern side, without perceiving any danger to extend from the Catwick.
Until this examination of the passage between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick,
by Captain Ross, it was not known to be safe, although several ships had passed through
it in the night, when returning from China in dark blowing weather ; when finding
themselves at such times either close to Pulo Sapata or to the Little Catwick, or in
the passage between these islands, they were necessitated to run through, often uncer-
tain of their situation. f
Although this passage seems to be safe with a commanding wind, it ought not to be
adopted excepting in a case of emergency, for it is contracted, and the currents are
strong and irregular about these islands.
• Captain Ross made it in lat. 9^59.^' N., Ion. 109" Sf E.
t The ships hereafter named passed" through this channel in the night. The ships Scton and Surprise, at
midnight, November 8th, 1796, running under the goose wings of their fore-sails, saw Pulo Sapata bearing
S. by W. about 2 miles, and finding they could not clear it to the eastward, bore away and p.asscd between it
and the Little Catwick. The Lady Melville passed through it in 1822, in the night : the Herefordshire and
other ships have also passed through this narrow channel, during dark blowing weather in the night, before
they were aware of their situation.
334
CHINA SEA. — MACCLESFIELD, OR LA PAIX ROCK.
Great C'atwick.
Contiguous
channels.
Macclesfield,
or La Paix
Rock.
Ships passing here in the night, during the North-east Monsoon, ought to make proper
allowance for a S. Westerly current, which is liable to deceive, and to carry them down
upon the islands, particularly if the wind is strong at the time.
ROUND ISLAND,orGREATCATWICK, in lat. 10°6' N., bearingW.N.W.iN.
from Pulo Sapata, distant about 3^ leagues, and nearly South from Pulo Ceicer de JVler,
about 9 leagues, is a high barren island, of a rounded form, nearly of the same size and
height as Pulo Sapata ; it may be seen about 9 leagues, and is thought to be steep to.
The channel betwi.xt this island and Pulo Ceicer de Mer is spacious and safe, with
soundings of 25 or 30 fathoms near tiie latter, deepening to 45 and 50 fathoms in mid-
channel, and towards the Catwick : when through it, the depths decrease quickly in
standing to the eastward.
The channel betwixt the Great and Little Catwicks, may likewise be considered safe
in day-light, but great caution is requisite when passing through it in the night, on
account of the following danger.
THE MACCLESFIELD ROCK, or LA PAIX ROCK, said to have been seen
many years ago, by the French ship La Paix, and to have been placed by her at nearly
an equal distance between the Great and Little Catwicks : until lately its true position
was not known to British navigators, although seen by the Macclesfield in 1721 ; even
its existence was considered doubtful ; and it is surprising that many ships, in passing
through the channel between the Catwicks in the night, without knowing that a rock
existed here, have all escaped the danger.
The European fleet from China, consisting of nine sail, under convoy of H. M.
Ship Atbeniene, saw the Great Catwick at midnight, March 13th, 1805, and passed
between it and the Little Catwick. Several of the ships saw the latter and Pulo Sa-
pata, and, by their white appearance from the moon's light, mistook them for strange
sails, and thought the Great Catwick was Pulo Sapata. In the Arniston, breakers
were seen bearing E. \ S., when the Great Catwick bore W. ^ N. ; the journal states,
that breakers appeared to roll over a rock about a ship's length, and were very high on
the north end of it, but the rock was not visible. Some ships of the fleet were to the
eastward of her when the breakers were seen, but, excepting the Arniston, none of
them perceived their dangerous situation.
The Gunjaver, January 7th, 1804, at half-past 8 a. m., when Pulo Sapata bore S. E.
^ E., and the Little Catwick S. E. by S., saw the Great Catwick bearing W. ^ N., and
very high breakers a long way to the N. E. of it: bore away S. and S. S.W, to go
between them and the Little Catwick. When the Little Catwick was on with Pulo
Sapata bearing S. E. by E., and the Great Catwick W. by N. \ N., had 21 fathoms
water in mid-channel, which appeared to be about 4 miles wide ; but the weather being
thick, with rain, the distance may not be very correctly stated.
H. M. Ship Grampus, with four China ships, passed between the Catwicks,
October 17th, 1810, having rounded the north end of the Great Catwick within a mile ;
afterwards, at 11 a.m., a reef of breakers was seen from the Grampus between the Cat-
wicks, bearing E. by S. ; steered S. E. by S. between it and the Great Catwick : at half-
past 11 the breakers bore N. E. one mile. Great Catwick N. by W. f W. three miles.
Little Catwick E. by S. ^ S.
The Macclesfield passed between the Great and Little Catwicks November 20th,
1721, and her journal contains the following remark: — Saw some breakers lying about
CHINA SEA MINERVA BANK. 335
2 miles* N. E. from the Great Catvvick, which I believe are not seen in little wind and
smooth water.
The position of the foregoing danger has been determined by Captain Ross, who, Captai.. Ross
after passing between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick, March 27th, 1817, steered '^'^^"'P''""-
N.W. by VV. till 3 p. u., having very smooth water, and the wind from South ; dis-
covered a small rippling bearing W. by N., for which steered, and when about half a
mile S. E. from it, had 45 fathoms, rocky ground. Sent two of our boats, and one of
the Investigator's, to examine the rippling, then wore, and passed about half a cable's
length to the eastward of the boats that were round a rock ; when our small cutter was
holding on by it, she was in a transit line with the Great Catwick bearing N. 89i W.,
and from the boat, the summit of Pulo Sapata bore S. 56^ °E.,-\ the Little Catwick bein^^
three-quarters the length of Sapata to the soutliward of that island, or 2^ 5' to the ri^-ht
of its highest part. The rippling was found to be produced by a very s/iarp point of
a rock, one foot under water, and at the distance of a few yards around it there are
12 and 15 fathoms water. The rock was so steep, that the boat's grapnel would
not remain on it, and one of the men held her on by the boat-hook. When it bore
South a cable's length, we had 38 fathoms, rocky ground, and from this position
ran, by Massy's patent log, 5 miles to the Great Catwick, bearing South, distant
about a quarter of a mile.|
A shoal was formerly thought to lie S. E. of Pulo Sapata at several miles' distance,
which is now believed not to exist. A collision of currents or tides is sometimes seen
in the vicinity of these islands, producing ripplings in the sea, like breakers upon
a shoal ; which, no doubt, have been marked as dangers.
THE SOUNDINGS deepen fast, in approaching Pulo Sapata and the Catwicks soundings.
from the westward ; in a direct line, about mid-way between them and Pulo Condore,
the depths are 27 and 28 fathoms, increasing to 65 fathoms when Pulo Sapata bears
about N. E. 12 or 13 leagues. When it bears about N. N. E. 9 leagues, the soundings
are 67 to 70 fathoms, but not always regular ; the edge of the bank coincides nearly
with the meridian of Pulo Sapata, for very deep soundings only are obtained a little way
to the eastward of that limit. The depths increase to 110 and 120 fathoms, when Pulo
Sapata bears N.W. by N. to N.W. ^ N., distant about 4 or 4^ leagues, and a little
farther out there are no more soundings ; a ship, therefore, being nearly in the parallel of
this island, may be certain that she is to the eastward of it when soundings are not
obtained.
THE MINERVA BANK, situated to the N. Eastward of Pulo Sapata, was dis- Minerva Bank,
covered by the Company's ship of this name, on her passage to China, August i/th,
1821. At noon, observed in lat. 10° 32' N., steered N. E. ^ N. 5 miles, and about
half-past noon, the water appearing very much discoloured, kept the lead going quick,
had 40 fathoms first cast, then 'S5, 30, and 28 fathoms ; shortened sail, and liove to,
* Captain Ladd, who passed near this danger in the Kellie Castle, at 3^ p. m. December 1st, 1827, says it
is nearer to the Great than to the Little Catwick, but thinks, if a ship keep between 1 and 3 miles of the Great
Catwick in passing the danger, she will be safe. The sea broke high over it at the time, but no rock was visible
above water.
■|- This bearing should probably be E. 56^° S.
j There appears to be some obscurity in this passage, but I conceive it to mean tliat the boat, from a posi-
tion, a cable's length North of the Rock, ran 5 miles (on about a West course), until the Great Catwick bore
South, a quai'ter of a mile distant. This distance and the preceding bearings place the rock further to the east-
ward than the position hitherto given in the chart. — Ed.
336
COCHIN-CHINA — CAPE PADARAN.
head to the S. Eastward ; next cast had 39, 40, and 42 fathoms, and continued this
depth by repeated soundings. From noon till 2 p. m. when lying to, had steered
N. E. h N. H miles, which gave G miles northing, placing the bank in 10"^ 38' N., and
good sights taken at the same time made the Ion. 110° 18' E. by mean of three chro-
nometers. The soundings upon tiie bank were all coral rock, and it appeared to ex-
tend to about 1^ miles in a N. E. direction, as in hauling to the southward the depth
greatly increased. About a quarter past 2 p. m. bore away, and gradually increased
the soundings from 45 to 50 fathoms, then no bottom at 55 fathoms.
COCHIN-CHINA, FROM CAPE PADARAN TO CAPE
TURON.
Padaran Bav.
Anclioiage.
To sail into
the harbour.
North side of
the bay.
CAPE PADARAN, described in the last section, is the southern boundary of the
Great Bay of the same name, called also Phanran Bay, after a considerable town at
the head of it, where there is a tolerable harbour, formed by a reef, dry at low tide,
that projects about 2 miles from the western shore, and shelters vessels from the sea.
On the north side of Cape Padaran there is a bight, where vessels may anchor in the
South-west Monsoon, and where fresh water may be found at the south side of a small
sandy bay : large ships ought not to anchor under 9 or 10 fathoms, for the bottom is
foul near the shore.
The ship Admiral Gambier sailed from Canton River September 5th, 1812, and
reached Cape Varela on the 9th; meeting here with strong South and S.W. winds,
and squally weather, she continued to beat against them near the coast till the 23rd,
then stood into Padaran Bay, where she anchored in 12 fathoms, with the eastern ex-
tremity of Cape Padaran bearing S.S. E., northern extreme of the bay N. N. E., dis-
tant from the shore about 2 miles. She cut firewood, filled up her water, and sailed
from this anchorage 20th September.
After weighing from this anchorage, or having passed Cape Padaran, if bound to
the harbour, steer for the middle of the bay, to avoid a reef and foul ground contiguous
to the western shore; then keep to the northward, for the north entrance point of the
harbour, until the reef on the western side is plainly seen.
Wl)en near the entrance, a mass of rocks, one over the other, like ruins, will be per-
ceived close to the shore at the N.W. side of the harbour, and beyond it an isolated
hill ; keep the highest rock of the mass on with this hill, in steering past the reef at
tiie distance of a third of a mile ; 6 or 7 fathoms will be the least water. When inside
the reef, steer more westerly, and anchor in 4 fathoms, good holding ground. There
is a rivulet at the bottom of the harbour, and a stream of fresh water, where the reef
joins the shore.
To proceed from the harbour, the directions which have been given for passing
the reef must be observed ; when clear of it, avoid the north side of the bay, which is
rocky ; steer therefore to the S. £. until the north point of the bay is brought to bear
N. E., and pass it at the distance of 3 miles; this point is low, surrounded with rocks
I
COCHIN-CHINA. — WATER ISLANDS. 337
under water, close to which there is a dry sand-bank. From hence to False CapeVarela,
the coast is very mountainous and steep, extending nearly N. E. by N. ; a little to the
southward of that cape there is an opening into Vung-Gang, a great basin or cove, in-
habited by fishermen, which is darkened by the steep surrounding mountains; but it
is uncertain whether or not this cove will admit ships, and afibrd safe anchorage.
FALSE CAPE VARELA,* called MUI-DAVAICH by the natives, in lat. Fai.e ca,.e
11° 44' N., bearing from Cape Padaran about N. N. E. ^ E., 8^ or 9 leagues, is formed ^'^!;^Jp*,;*"oast
by a very high oblong mountain of great magnitude, which, from the steep cliffs that ^ ^'"^"'
front the sea, rises with a gentle acclivity inland ; it may be known from the other
prominent headlands, by its great height, its convex outline, and by its regularly
sloping to seaward. In crossing the bay of Padaran, soundings of 40 to 50 fathoms
may be got if not far out; the north point ought not to be approached under 40
fathoms in the night, because it is fronted by foul ground, and a small island lies a
little way from the shore.
False Cape Varela forms the south point of the entrance to Cararaigne Bay, and is
steep to ; it may be approached close, having 20 fathoms near the shore, and betwixt
the shore and the island that lies to the N.W. there is a narrow passage, fit for small
vessels, with 12 to 14 fathoms water.
CAMRAIGNE, or CAM-RANH BAY (entrance), is in lat. 11° 49' N., bounded camraigne
on the south side by the land of False Cape Varela and the contiguous isles, and by ^'''•
the high island Tagne on the north side; this is called the large entrance, in which
there are from 18 to 14 fathoms water. The small entrance is formed betwixt the
north point of the island Tagne and the opposite point of the main, in which there are
7 and 8 fathoms water ; but it is very narrow, and should not be used except in a case
of necessity.
The outer harbour of Camraigne is to the N.W. of the island Tagne, having 10 and Outer and
12 fathoms water, and is protected from the sea by that island. About 1^ miles farther oo"rs.""
to the N. Westward is the entrance to the inner harbour, about three-quarters of a
mile wide, formed by a point of land on the north side, and a long neck or narrow
peninsula to the S. Westward : the inner harbour is an extensive lagoon. The best
anchorage is a little inside the entrance, in any depth from 10 to 6 or 7 fathoms ; for
all the western part is shoal, and the shores around the western and northern parts of
the harbour are lined by a coral bank. From the northern extremity of the harbour,
a river runs to the northward parallel to the coast for 5 or 6 leagues ; it is separated
from the sea by a narrow neck of land, consisting of small sand hills, and a great
barren sandy plain.
The source of the river lies in marshy ground, not far from the city of Nhiatrang.
There are no hidden dangers in either of the outer or inner harbours, and they are safe
for ships of any description, the bottom being generally mud, and good holding ground.
This harbour is mostly inhabited by fishermen.
THE WATER ISLANDS,! in lat. 1-2° 2' to 12° 4' N., are of moderate height, water island.
distant 3i or 4 miles off the main land to the northward of Camraigne Bay : the
southernmost is called Hone Noi; the other, which is the largest, Hone Ngoai ; it
• Named from a rock or knob upon the mountain, a little inland, having some resemblance to that over Cape
Varela, although not neai-ly so conspicuous,
■f- Called also Fishers Islands.
VOL. II. 2 X
338 COCHIN-CHINA. — NHIATRANG BAY.
has some islets and rocks near it. The channel inside these islands is said to be very
safe, with 12 fatiioins water near the shore, and there is good anchorage opposite to
them in the South-west Monsoon, close to tlie coast at the Great Plain ; the passage
inside these islands may be adopted, it' you intend to proceed into JNhiatrang by the
soutii entrance. The great sandy plain is about 3 leagues in extent, ending at the
souti) entrance of Nhiatrang Bay ; at each extreme there is a bluff jioint, and the bay
comprehended between them is called Dgiay Bay. It must be observed, that
although the passage inside the Water Islands is thought to be safe, there is to the
Uockybank. north-westwarcl of these islands, in the fair track, a rocky patch, on which the Lord
Castlereagh shoaled suddenly, August 18th, 1807. She had worked out of Nhiatrang
Bay in the morning, betwixt Tre Island and the two islands near the shore, and ob-
served at noon in lat. 12° 8' N. ; after steering South 4 miles, witli the wind at E. S. E.,
the water shoaled suddenly from 13 to 6J fathoms, and the helm was put down ; rocks
and sea-weed were seen under the bottom, but the least water by the lead was (i^
fathoms ; she deepened to 13 fathoms in standing about 2 cables' lengths to the N.
Eastward. When upon this shoal patch. Hone Noi, the southernmost Water Island,
bore S. E. | E., the bluft' point at the northern extremity of Dgiay Bay N.W. ^ W.,
the bluff" point at its southern extreme S. by E. easterly, distance ofl' the sand downs
on the shore of the bay 2^ or 3 miles.* Inside this rocky patch there are 12 and
11 fathoms, regular soundings.
NiiiatrangBay. NHIATRANG BAY is large, and is protected by Tre Island and its adjoining
isles to the southward, and by the main land and Fisher Islands to the northward and
eastward. To proceed into the bay by the south entrance, you may pass on either side
the Water Islands, then betwixt Tre Island and the two isles that lie to the south-west-
ward of it, nearly in the passage; the soundings are regular, from 12 fathoms at the
entrance to 6 and 7 fathoms between the west point of Tre Island and the main,
where the channel is 1^ or 1^ miles wide. The passage contiguous to the main, inside
> the two isles that lie in the channel, is also safe ; but betwixt them and Tre Island is
one wider, and on other accounts preferable.
The anchorage at Nhiatrang is in 8 fathoms, good holding groimd, with the entrance
of the river bearing about N. W. or N.W. ^ N. 1 mile, and Tre Island E. S. E. The
river has a bar, and will only admit vessels drawing 7 or 8 feet water ; it communicates
with Nhiatrang city, about 5 miles to the westward ; this city is the capital of the pro-
vinces Nhiatrang and Binkang, and has a fort, built in the European manner, by Monsieur
Oliver, a French engineer. Here, they manufacture some silk and other articles, and
carry on trade with different parts of the coast; a ship in want of wood or water may
obtain them by touching at this place.
The Lord Castlereagh, on her passage from China, anciiored, August 15th, 1807, in
Nhiatrang Road, in 9 fathoms, stiff clay, with the entrance to the river N.W. f N.,
White Rock N. by E., Shala Island N. E. ^ E., Pyramid Island E. by N., Tre
Island from E. i S. to S. E. ^ S., and a ledge of rocks off it bearing E. S. E. a S.
She watered with her own boats in the river; the water was found very good a little
inside the entrance at low water, and about 4 or 5 miles up, the water was fresh at
half ebb. About 2 miles up the river there is not depth sufficient for a loaded long
Tides. boat at half-ebb, there being several shoal banks stretching across it. The rise of tide
5 or G feet, high water at 8;^ hours on full and change of moon, and there is one flood
and one ebb in 24 hours. Tre Island, in lat. 12^ 10' N., is high, and contains several
coves, where vessels may repair damages : the Upton Castle anchored to the westward
* These bearings are irreconcilable with the positions of the points as given in M. Dayot's chart.
COCHIN-CHINA. — HONE COHE BAY. 339
of Tre Island, between the inner island and the main, to the southward of Nhiatrang
Road, and found it good anchorage, and convenient for watering.
The northern channel leading to Nhiatrang Road, although wide, has a coral bank
nearly in mid-channel, opposite the large Bay of Binkang, wliich makes it proper to
keep nearest to Tre Island. There is a passage between the soutii point of Binkang
Bay and Turtle Island, which lies off it ; and there is also a passage between the
small Isle Seche and the east point of the same bay ; the coral bank mentioned above
is in tiie line of transit with the outer extremity of the point eastward of Binkang Bay
and the little isletS. S. Westward of that point. Captain Ross was twice on this coral
bank, and did not get less than 4 fathoms water, although it is said, by M. Dayot, to
have as little as 3 fathoms on it. Dune Island is the southern one of two small
islands, next to the northward of Tre, and when upon the coral bank Dune Island
bore S. S. E., and the small white rock called Seche was in one with the northern
extreme of the land.
FISHER ISLANDS,* lying to the N. E. of Tre Island, form a group of two or Fisher isiamis.
three barren islands, with some rocks close to them ; Pyramid Island, one of these, in
about lat. 12° 21' N., is a high, regular cone or pyramid, conspicuous as a mark in
sailing along the coast. This island is about H or 2 leagues to the southward of the
northernmost one, called Shala ; and there is a channel with 25 to 30 fathoms water
between them. The southernmost, called Dune Island, which has already been men-
tioned, is of moderate height, flat on the summit, like the crown of a hat, when
viewed in some directions; the channel betwixt it and Tre Island is safe, and there are
soundings of 60 to 75 fathoms about 3 or 4 leagues outside these islands ; the sound-
ings inside Pyramid Island are from 16 to 20 fathoms, decreasing regularly close to
the South side of the entrance of Hone Cohe Bay.
HONE COHE BAY, about 2^ or 3 leagues northward from Pyramid Island, has Hone coiu-
several islands in it ; the outermost, called Bac, has to the eastward of it, about a mile, ^''>-
a rock called the Button, and three islands to the westward. Betwixt Isle Bac and the
small one to the westward there is a safe passage, and also between the latter and the
other two islands, which lie much nearer the western shore, but the widest channel is
outside Isle Bac, between it and the east point of the bay. Having passed these
islands, if bound into the bay, steer to the N.W. in mid-channel betwixt the point on
the west side that forms Hone Cohe Harbour, and a small island to the eastward ; then
steer westerly to round the point, and afterwards to the southward to the anchorage on
the west side of it in 4 fathoms good holding ground, sheltered all round ; here, the
village Hone Cohe and some other habitations are situated.
On the east side of the bay are several islands at the entrance of a cove, into which
ships may warp, and moor to the trees, there being plenty of water and no danger ; but
vessels do not usually go there, as the cove is inhabited only by a few fishermen. This
cove or harbour is formed by high mountains, and communicates with the sea by a
passage called Cua-Be, or Little Passage, to the S. Eastward, bounded on each side by
high land, resembling steep perpendicular walls ; it is unknown whether this passage
is navigable, or otherwise. There are good soundings along the east side of the bay ;
but to the northward and to the westward it is rocky and shoal near the shores ; in the
middle of it, there are several islands. The tide rises 5 feet at Hone Cohe, high water Tides.
at 1 H hours on full and change of moon.
* This name, in some charts, is applied to the group to the southward of Tre Island, (see Water Islands, p.337).
2x2
340
COCHIN-CHINA. — CAPE VARELA.
Three Kings. THE THREE KINGS are three rocks, lying about l^ miles East of the point of
Cua-Be ; they are bold to approach, having 30 fathoms water near them, with a pas-
sage betwixt them and the point. About 5 miles farther to the northward lies the
small J)oi-Moi, at some views resembling a turret or sentry-box; the point, from
which it is separated by a very narrow channel, is the easternmost land of Cochin-
Ciiina, being a little to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Varela, and the land
HonneGomme between them forms a concavity called Honne Gomme Bay. The soundings in this
bay are regular, and there is good anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, at the
south side, about 2 miles to the W. N.W. of the point, near a small island : water may
be got at the southern extremity of the sandy flat, but in the dry season wells must
be dug in the sand, at some distance from the sea. Fresh water may be jjrocured
in this manner on most parts of the coast. The sandy flat, which extends from
the high land of Cua-Be to that of Cape Varela, is a neck of land scarcely a mile
broad in some places, separating the bottom of Honne Cohe Bay from the sea,
and the three islands in the middle of that bay may in passing be perceived over the
sandy flat.
Bay,
Water.
Onp.Ro
Harbour.
Cape Varela.
Directions.
ONG-RO HARBOUR, to the S.W. of Cape Varela at the northern extremity of
Honne Gomme Bay, seems safe at all times ; it is about a mile wide at the entrance,
stretching about 3 miles inland in a N. E. direction, with soundings of 8, 7, and 6
fathoms, close to the village at the upper part. The bottom is fine clay, except within
100 yards of the shore on either side it is frequently sand or coral rocks : on the west
side the harbour fresh water may be procured in several places, but the best watering
place is about half-way up on the same side, to the N. Eastward of a little cove. Pulo
Varela is a small ishind near the shore, to the S. W. of the entrance of the harbour.
To proceed into the latter, bring the tunnel or peak to bear N. N.W., and steer for it
with this bearing, which will lead into the entrance of the harbour, where you will
have 10 or 9|^ fathoms water.
CAPE VARELA, or PAGODA CAPE, is formed of steep cliffs, extending nearly
North and South 2 or 2J miles, having in the middle of them a small sandy bay,
where a stream of excellent w^ater descends from the mountain into the sea. This cape
is in lat. 12° 55' N., Ion. 109° 24^' E., or 14° 19|' West from the Grand Ladrone, by mean
of a series of admeasurements with excellent chronometers, at various times. The Cape
itself may be seen 9 or 10 leagues, and when first perceived in coming from the north-
ward appears like an island, the gap of low land which joins it to the mountain behind
being then depressed under the horizon. This mountain* stands directly over the
Cape, having upon its summit a large perpendicular rock, resembling a pagoda or
chimney, called Da-bia by the natives, which makes it very conspicuous ; and it may
be seen about 20 leagues' distance from the deck of a large ship, either from the north-
ward or southward, in clear weather; but the summits of the mountains are frequently
obscured by clouds or vapours, particularly in the North-east Monsoon. The Cape may
be approached very close, there being 20 and 25 fathoms water around it, at a small
distance from the shore.
From abreast False Cape Varela, the course is N. by E. ^ E. and N. by E., until
Pyramid Island and tlie other Fisher Islands are passed, then N. i E. and North to
Cape Varela : the best track in the night, with a fair wind, is to keep from 2 to 3
* There is a hot sprinf; in the middle of the Cape Mountain, and there is said to be silver ore in some of
these mountains, which form double and treble ridges behind the cape.
COCHIN-CHINA. — PHUYEN HARBOUR. 341
leagues off the different headlands, which, with the Water Islands and Fisher Islands,
will be visible at that distance in passing along, if the weather be clear. When the
weather is unfavourable, edge farther out, to give the islands a proper berth ; and if
soundings are obtained you will not be far from them, or some of the headlands.
About 4 or 5 miles N.i \V. from Cape Varela lies a mass of rocks, some of them
level with the water's edge ; but the central one is considerably elevated, with a large
stone on its summit, appearing as if placed by art : in passing near it, when abreast, a
hole through is perceived below the upper stone, which has given it the name of Per- Perforated
FORATED Rock. There is a safe passage betwixt it and the main land, having ^"'^'^•
soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms.
's
PHUYEN BAY is formed by the land taking a westerly and N.W. direction from phuyen Bay,
Cape Varela to Phuyen River, which is distant from the Cape about 4 leagues. About ^^"c'^nt'co^"'"'
6 or Og leagues N. Westward from Cape Varela, not far inland, stands a high isolated
mountain, which, being a regular cone, is called Conical Mountain, or Epervier ;
a little to the southward of it there is a sloping piece of land, with a rock or pagoda ou
it, which is only discerned when near the shore. Here, the inland mountains recede
to the westward, a great way from the sea, and the Cape Varela Chain stretching also
to the westward, a large space of low land is formed close to the sea round the Bay of
Phuyen, betwixt Cape Varela and Conical Mountain. The entrance of Phuyen
River is to the southvvard of this mountain, and will only admit boats. A ship
may anchor off it in 8 or 9 fathoms, good ground, with Conical Mountain bearing about
N. N.W., and a pagoda on a mountain some distance inland to the N.W. ; but these
mountains are frequently obscured by clouds. The soundings across the Bay of Phuyen
are 30 to 35 fathoms, about 4 and 5 miles off shore. Several flat islands lie near the
coast on the north side of the bay, of which, Maignia is the most considerable, distant Maignia
about 2 miles from the shore, having an indifferent passage inside, of irregular depths, '^'''"'''
and rocky bottom ; close to it on the outside there are 23 and 24 fathoms water.
Abreast this island there are on the coast, near the sea, two small hummocks, one of
them resembling a sugar-loaf.
PHUYEN HARBOUR (the entrance), in lat. 13° 23' N., is about 5 miles to the Phuyen
northward of Maignia Island, and 3^ leagues S. S. Westward from Pulo Cambir ; it is "»^^«"'-
about 2 miles wide, with 10 and 11 fathoms water on either side the small island that
lies a little inside, called Nest Island, which ought not to be approached close on the
west side, because a reef projects about a musket-shot in that direction.
This harbour, one of the best in the world, branches out into three harbours inside,
distinguished by the names of Xuan-Dai, Vung-Lam, and Vung-Chao. The an-
chorage of Xuan-Dai is on the south side, in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the
entrance of the river bearing South, and Nest Island about N. E. by E. That of Vung-
Lam is about 2 miles more to the N. Westward, in 7 fathoms, mud, on the north side of
an island that fronts the cove, with the village bearing S.W. by W. Vung-Chao, about
a league farther northward, on the east side the great or inner harbour, is sheltered
from every w ind by circumjacent mountains, and the anchorage is in 4^ or 5 fathoms,
with the houses in the grove of coco-nut trees bearing S. E. to S. E. by E. On the
north side the harbour a coral reef lines the shore, which is visible at low water, and
stretches around the bottom of the inner harbour. In proceeding towards Vung-Chao,
the Buoy Rock must be avoided, which is nearly even with the water's edge, and lies
about a third of a mile from the eastern shore, outside the point that forms the east
342
COCHIN-CHINA. — COU-MONG HARBOUR.
Watering
Place.
side the entrance to the inner harbour. There is a small cove, called Vung-la, under
the north point of the outer entrance, where two or three vessels might be hove down,
if requisite. The country around this excellent harbour is well cultivated, and,
togetiier with the liouses and huts interspersed along the hills, present in entering it
a beautiful landscape. The province of Phuyen is better cultivated than any other in
Cochin-China.
The Company's ship Vansittart, Captain Dalrymple, having sailed from Singapore,
October 3rd, 1827, and reaching lat. 14° N., Ion. 110° E., on the 20th, encountered a
steady North-east Monsoon ; bore away for Phuyen Harbour to fill up her water,
where she anchored on the 22nd, in 8^ fathoms, the northern entrance of tiie harbour
N.72°E., southern entrance S. 28° E., Nest Island S. 19° E., Island oft" Vung- Lara
N. 38° W., Buoy Rock N. 45° W., northern entrance of the inner harbour N. 31° W.,
western entrance of ditto N. 48° W. ; the watering place is in a small bay N. by E.,
in which was a fine cascade close to the beach, and very convenient for watering.
The Buoy Rock was covered at half-flood, and appeared like a boat at low water.
Maignia Island, to the southward of the entrance of the harbour, is high, and was shut
in with the southern point of the entrance from the ship's anchorage, which anchorage
was rather too far to the southward in the North-east Monsoon. The Vansittart sailed
from Phuyen Harbour October 24th, went by the Palawan Passage and coast of
Luconia, had mostly favourable winds, and arrived at Macao November 14th.
Gain-ba Point.
GAIN-BA POINT is about a league to the northward of the entrance of Phuyen
Harbour, with small bays formed on each side of it, where vessels may occasionally
anchor; in the bay on the south side, there is a fishing village. Gain-ba Point, and
the coast beween it and the entrance of Phuyen Harbour, may be passed very close in
10 or 12 fathoms water. About a league to the northward of Gain-ba Point lies
another point, called Vung-Trich, and about 4 miles beyond the latter, the Point Vung-
Mon ; these two points are also bold, and may be passed close, in 10 or 12 fathoms.
The bay of Vung-Mon, situated betwixt these points, is safe to approach, with regular
soundings in it towards the shore.
Cou-Mong
Harliour.
COU-MONG HARBOUR ENTRANCE, situated on the south side of the above-
named bay, in lat. 13° 29' N., is very narrow, with 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, 5 and 4
fathoms a little inside, and 3 to 4 fathoms to the southward of the small i.sland in the
middle of the harbour. This is an excellent cove for small vessels, or those of mid-
dling size ; and there is a little village among the coco-nut trees to the northward of the
island. Vung-Mon Point, like that of Gain-ba, has a bay on each side, with a
small fishing village in the northern one: a vessel intending to anchor there, must
give a berth to the northern extremity of the point, for rocks project from it above and
under water, having 10 fathoms close to them ; the anchorage also is in 10 fathoms.
Pulo Cambir.
PULO CAMBIR (the centre), in lat. 13° 33' N., and 4 or 5 miles to the westward
of the meridian of Cape Varela, has a regular sloping appearance, and maybe dis-
cerned about 6 leagues from a ship's deck ; it is of considerable size, extending^
N. N.W. and S.S.E., having a few fishermen's huts on the S.W. side; and at a small
distance S. Eastward from its south end there are some sharp peaked rocks, calleil the
Two Paps. This island is nearly abreast Vung-Mon Point, from which it is about
4 or 5 miles distant ; the channel betwixt it and the coast is very safe, with 12 and 13
fathoms near Vung-Mon Point, 20 fathoms towards Pulo Cambir, and outside the
COCHIN-CHINA.— QUINHONE HARBOUR.— CAPE SAX-HO. 343
island, at a small distance, there are no soundings. There are 23 fathoms with it bear-
ing N. by W. 5 or 6 miles.
DATE ISLAND, about 2 or 2^ leagues to the northward of Vung-Mon Point, Date island,
and H miles distant from the main.'is of round form, covered with trees ; betwixt it ^"^.^J"'"'"^
and another round island nearer the shore, there is a passage with 5 and G fathoms
water, and there are some rocks above water to the northward of the island last men-
tioned. From Vung-Mon Point to opposite Date Island the coast is steep and very
mountainous, forming a considerable bight called Cambir Bay.
QUINHONE HARBOUR, about North 6 miles from Date Island, is bounded on Quinhone
the west side by a neck of sand about 4 miles long, and on the east side by high steep "'^^°"'^-
land. Close to the point on the east side, and within it, there is plenty of water; the
harbour is sheltered from southerly winds by the curved form of the high land on that
side the entrance, and is protected by forts built on the point ; but large ships are pre-
vented i'rom entering it by a shoal bank that extends a long way out from the western
point, and which, stretching across, joins to the land on the east side of the entrance, and
forms a bar, on which there are only 3 and 3^^ fathoms water. The deepest water is
close to the point on the east side the entrance, where, Capt. Purefoy says, a ship may
carry from 3-1^ to 4 fathoms on the bar, at high water spring tides : inside of it, the
depth increases to 7, 8, and 10 fathoms. The western part, and bottom of the har-
bour, is a spacious lagoon, with shoal water; several small rivers fall into it, one of
which communicates with the City of Quinhone, situated about 5 leagues to the west-
ward, and is the capital of the province of the same name. This harbour was a place
of considerable trade, prior to the long war between the King of Cochin-China and his
rebellious subjects. A ship not intending to go into the harbour may anchor outside
the bar in 4^ fathoms, good holding ground, with the Sandy West Point a little open
with the east point of the entrance.
CAPE SAN-HO, in lat. 13° 44' N., Ion. 109° 14' E., about 2^ or 3 miles East from cape sau-i.o.
the entrance of Quinhone Harbour, is a high bluff headland, forming the eastern point
of the Bay of Quinhone: close to the land, a little to the northward of the cape, there
is an island, called Hau by the natives ; and the coast, which extends about o miles
North from the cape, is very steep and high. Abreast the north point of this high
land there are some small isles ; one of them, called Can, is a round islet, about one
mile off the point ; and nearly H miles outside of this there are some rocky islets,
named Hora-Cone and Hom-Co by the natives, and by Europeans, Black Jack.
Between these and Cau Isle, and also inside the latter, vessels may occasionally pass,
there being 15 or 20 fathoms water around them. On the north side the point oppo-
site these islets, during the South-west Monsoon, there is good anchorage fronting a
small bay formed by the point.
From Cape Varela to Cape San-ho, the course is N. by W. ; or N. ^ W. about 19 course along
leagues, to pass outside of Hom-Cone, and the other islets that lie to the northward of ""=<^^oast-
the latter cape : soundings will not be got in this track, unless near the coast.
A little inland there is a mount in the vicinity of Quinhone City, with a spired
pagoda on it ; further to the northward there is a mountain with a tower on its sum-
mit, and the tower is crowned with a small spire or funnel ; the latter is in about
lat. 14° G' N., and they are discernible when sailing along the coast at a considerable
distance.
344
COCHIN-CHINA. — BUFFALO ISLAND, ETC.
BulTalo, and
adjoining
COilSt.
Nuoc-nsfol.
Turtle Island.
BUFFALO ISLAND, in about lat. 14° 11' N., and 4 or 5 miles distant from the
high land abreast, is a convex rock of sloping form, moderately elevated, but will not
be seen in the night until it is approached very close. It lies 5 or G leagues to the
northward of the north point of the high land that forms Quinhone Harbour; from
which point, the coast is low for some distance, and again becomes high opposite
Biiflalo. The water is very deep outside this rock, and the coast to the westward is
bold and safe to approach, having soundings of 14 and 16 fathoms near the shore. A
fleet of ships from China, having no observations, got close to this part of the coast in
the night; some of the ships passed outside the Buffalo, others passed between it and
the main, and found the channel safe, with regular soundings.
NUOC-NGOL, or Fresh Water Point and Bay, lie about 3 leagues to the north-
westward of Buffalo Island ; there is a small island nearly touching the point, on the
south side of which is the bay, having a village close under the point ; and there is
good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, sandy bottom.
TURTLE ISLAND, about 3 or 4 leagues farther to the northward, and 4 miles off
shore, is small, and very little above water ; but there is a safe channel betwixt it
and the shore. There are soundings of 65 or 70 fathoms, about 3 or 4 leagues off this
part of the coast.
TAMQUAN RIVER lies to the N. W. of Turtle Island, in about lat. 14° 39' N.,*
at the northern extremity of a sandy flat, having a bar at the entrance, passable only by
boats at high water. The anchorage, in 7 or 8 fathoms, is mud and sand, partly shel-
tered from northerly winds by the coast stretching out about 2 miles eastward from the
north side of the river.
Tiphou Kiver. TIPHOU RIVER IS a few miles more to the southward, in the middle of the
sandy flat ; the anchorage off this river is in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom.
From the Point of Tamquan the coast extends North a little easterly about 2
leagues, then it takes a direction nearly N.W. by N. about 7 leagues, to Quan-ngai
River ; it is steep and bold to approach, having 30 fathoms within 2 or 3 miles of the
shore ; contiguous to the sea the coast is of moderate height, but the country is very
high inland. There is anchorage off Quan-ngai River : Cape Batangan, about 2
leagues to the N. E. of it, projects to seaward, and forms a bay on the south side ; on
this side the cape, about a mile distant, there are some rocks, called Rocky Islands, nearly
even with the water's edge, betwixt which and the cape, the country vessels sometimes
pass. The coast from this cape to Bantam Cape extends nearly N. W. about 4
leagues, having soundings of 20 and 25 fathoms near the shore.
Tamquan
River.
Coast from
thence to
Bantam Cape,
Pulo Canton.
PULO CANTON, called COLLAO-RAY by the natives, in lat. 15° 23' N., Ion.
109° 6' E., or 4° 38' West from the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, is about 4 leagues
N. E. from Cape Batangan. It is of considerable size, discernible about 9 leagues
from the deck of a large ship, and has a level aspect when viewed from the southward:
on the west side it is inhabited, well cultivated, and fresh water may be procured here.
A reef projects from the S. E. end of the island ; and to the northward, there are over-
falls and rocky bottom, extending about a league from it and the Low Island that lies
* Another account places it in lat. 14° 32' N., which may probably be nearer the truth
COCHIN-CHINA. — PORT QUI-QUICK. 345
to the N.W. of Pulo Canton. The N. E. sides of these islands should not be closely
approached, for although it is not known that danger exists, overfalls of 15 to 7 fathoms
have been experienced about 2 or 3 leagues to the northward of Pulo Canton. When
it bears S. S. E. 4 leagues, there are 50 fathoms water.
The channel betwixt the island and the main is very safe, with soundings of '25 to ciiamiei.
34 fathoms ; within 2 or 3 miles of the main, the depths are generally about 30 fathoms,
decreasing to 25 fathoms towards Pulo Canton ; the low island to the northward
should not be approached.
It may be proper to observe, ships adopting the inner passage to China during the Passage along
strength of the South-west Monsoon, in June, July, and August, ought not to edge off [he souUi-'west
from the coast of Cochin-China until they pass within sight of Pulo Canton, particularly Monsoon.
if the winds are light and baffling ; in such case it is advisable to steer well to the
northward towards the south part of Hainan, to prevent being driven near the N. Wes-
tern extremity of the Paracels, should a N. Westerly storm happen to blow from the
Gulf of Tonking, which has been frequently experienced in June and July.
PORT QUI-QUICK, bearing about W. by N. from Pulo Canton, is formed on the ^^^^^^^i
west side of Cape Bantam, close to the foot of high mountains ; it is about 2 leagues coas't aroumi.
wide, and H leagues deep, with some islets in it, and small creeks where fresh water
may be procured ; and it affords good anchorage in the South-west Monsoon. At the
N. Western extremity of the bay, there is a small bay or cove under Happoix Point,
said to afford shelter in the North-east Monsoon ; opposite to it, Happoix River may be
discerned, which extends a great way inland.
From Happoix Point, the coast extends nearly N.W. by N. about 15 leagues to
CapeTuron, and in this space the country is mountainous a little inland. About 4
leagues northward from Happoix Point lies the island of False Cham-Collao ; it False Cham-
is about 4 leagues off the coast, of considerable height, and a reef is said to project from
its southern extremity.
CHAM-COLLAO ISLAND (the south part), in lat. 16° 54' N., about 5 leagues cimm-coiiao.
to the N. Westward of the former and 3 leagues distant from the main, is a high island,
about 2 leagues in length N. N.W. and S.S. E., having some islets adjoining its south
end, and others projecting to the westward from its N.W. part. It is inhabited, well
cultivated, and the anchorage on the west side, in 4 or 4^ fathoms near the village, may
be considered a safe harbour in all winds. The channel betwixt these islands and the
main is safe, with soundings mostly from 6 to 8 fathoms; and in some parts 5 fathoms,
to the westward of Cham-Collao. Opposite this island lies the entrance of Fai-fo
River, which, by a narrow "arm of the sea, communicates with Turon Bay : near the
entrance of Fai-fo River there is a mass of marble rocks, very conspicuous when sail-
ing- near the coast.
'»
TURON BAY* lies to the north-westward of Cham-Collao Island, and about xuron Bay.
5 leagues to the northward of Fai-fo River. Cape Turon, or Tien-Tchu, in lat. IG"* 5' N.,
Ion. 108° 15' E., by chronometers and lunar observations, is the easternmost extremity of
* The description of the coast of Cochin-China, from Cape St. James to Turon Cape and Bay, is partly taken
^ . *_^ ,^ , . , .. T .-i 1 T _. 1 t^'i..„tK ..1 1 ...» I.I.I, n.' .»lw^,i'o^4 »i-ii> trk
irom Monsieur Uayot s excellent sun
have translated from the French Orij
vations made in eifjht voyages, sailing
16° 8' N., Ion. 108° 20' E.
VOL. II. 2 Y
Cochin-China, from Cape St. .Tames to Turon Cape and 15ay, is partly taken
iirvey, which Mr. Drummond, now Lord Strathallan, kindly allowed nu- to
iginal, in his possession, at Canton, in 1804, and partly from my own obser-
ng along the coast. The position of Cape Turon, by .M. La Place, is lat.
346 TONKING GULF.
the peninsula that forms the east side of Turon Bay ; and Collao-Hanne, or Tiiron
Island, in lat. 16° 11' N., lies close to the point of land that forms the N.W. side of its
entrance. The entrance of Turon Bay is about 4 or 5 miles wide, with regular sonnd-
inijs of 15 and 14 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8, 7, and 6 fathoms. The northern shore
of the peninsula ought not to be approached close, for a reef, on which the sea sometimes
breaks, projects about three-quarters of a mile from the third point; the inner point of
the peninsula is also joined to a small contiguous island by a shoal. This small island
is in lat. 10° 7^' N., and the common anchorage is on the south side of it and the point,
in 5 or 5^- fathoms, where ships are sheltered from all winds. This is an excellent
harbour, affording poultry and other refreshments, from the adjacent villages ; several
rivers fall into the bay, and the depths decrease regularly towards the circumjacent
shores, but Turon River and Sandy Isle, at the eastern side of the bay, are lined by a
shoal bank. This was formerly a great place of trade, and some European nations had
factories here ; but no trade has been carried on by Europeans to this port for a consi-
derable time past. The peninsula and Turon Island are lioth high, and the country
inland is generally high and mountainous. The soundings about 2 or 3 miles outside
Cape Turon are 24 to 25 fathoms, the same depths are got about 2 or 2^ leagues to the
N. Eastward of the island, abreast the entrance of the bay; and the bottom is gene-
rally mud or ooze.
Approaching Turon from southward, the mass of marble rocks appears insulated,
resembling a castle; a few miles to the northward of which the Cape Peninsula
is perceived, with two peaked hills on it, one of them much higher than the other,
and united by a low, narrow isthmus : having approached the Cape Peninsula, steer
round it at a moderate distance, into the harbour. Turon Bay is called Han-san by
the natives.
TONKING GULF AND HAINAN ISLAND.
TonkingGuif. TONKING, or TUNG-QUIN GULF, is that extensive bight formed in the coast
between the parallels of 17° and 22° N., and which is rendered a deep inlet by the
peninsula of Lui-chew-fu and the island of Hainan, which protect it, and in a great
measure inclose it to the eastvvard. Tiie entrance between Tiger Island and the S.W.
part of Hainan is about 110 miles wide, which is the general width of the gulf itself.
The gulf has several islands contiguous to the western shore, and at the bottom of it
numerous small islands and shoals. There are soundings all over it, 45 and 40
fathoms in the middle, decreasing towards either shore ; the bottom is generally soft,
tit for anchorage. In some parts the soundings appear to be irregular, for the RoUa,*
* This ship, bound from Canton to England with teas, on account of the Company, made a dangerous and
singular mistake. She left the Grand Ladrone February 6th, 1804, steered for the Inner Passage, saw Pulo
Canton bearing S. by W. 6 or 7 leagues on the 9th, which they mistook for an Island of the Paracels. After-
wards she stood to the northward in the night, and to the westward in the day, endeavouring to force a passage
through, amongst, or to round the northern limits of the Paracels ; but was always obstructed by a chain of
islands and shoals. At last, on the 16th, they observed in lat. 17^ 28" N., had regular soundings two days in the
entrance of the Gulf of Tonking ; shortly after, saw Tiger Island bearing S. E., and having tried for seven days
TONKING GULF. — TONKING RIVER. 347
in lat. 17°2-V N., to the northward of Tiger Island, shoaled from .35 and 30 fathoms,
mud, to 10 fatlioms on a bank, steering W. by S. ; and soon deepened again to 25 and
30 fathoms, steering W. by N.
CAPE CHOUMAY, or CHOUVAY, in lat. 16° 21' N., bearing N.W. by W. cape chouvay.
8 leagues from Cape Turon, has good anchorage in a small bay on the west side, where
there is a river; and a little farther to the N.W. there are other rivers ; the coast be-
tween these two capes forms a bight, and a river falls into it.
HUE, or HUE-FO RIVER, in about lat. 16° 35' N., distant 7 leagues N.W. by Hue RWer.
W. from Cape Chouvay, has good anchorage off it in 6 fathoms, mud, and upon the
bar there are about 2 fathoms at low water. The city of Hue, about 4 or 5 leagues up
the river, was formerly the residence of the King of Cochin-China ; when the northern
provinces rebelled, it became the seat of the rebel government, but has again, with
these provinces, been retaken by the king, who at times resides in it. This river is
generally considered as the boundary betwixt the coast of Cochin-China and that of
Tonking.
CAPE LAY bears about N.W. ^ W. from Hue River, the coast between them
being low and sandy. The cape itself is rocky, and has a shoal extending a short dis-
tance off it ; the depths are from 15 to 20 fathoms within 2 miles of the cape.
TIGER ISLAND, in lat. 17° 10' N., Ion. 107° 22' E., by the observations of Cap- Tiger isiami.
tain Laplace in 18."J1, and about 4^ leagues E. by N. from Cape Lay, the nearest land,
is high and small, with depths of 28 to 20 fathoms in the channel between it and the
coast, which is clear of danger along this part, the soundings near the land being
usually from 12 to 16 fathoms, mostly blue mud, or mud and sand.
CAPE BOUNG-QUIONA, in lat. 17° 57' N., Ion. 106° 34' E., is high land, with cape Bo.mg-
two islands near it, and another 2^ or 3 miles to the S. S.W., the latter having an ex- ^"'"""^
tensive reef projecting nearly to the main land ; between the former islands there is a
narrow passage with 4 to 6 fathoms water, and 3 fathoms between the cape and the
small isle close to its extreme point. About 2^ leagues E. by S. from this cape, in
lat. 17° 55' N., lies the small isle, called the South Watcher, having 20 fathoms water
close to its western side, decreasing to 1 1 fathoms near the isles contiguous to the cape.
Another high island, called Sovel, surrounded by a reef, lies close to a projecting
headland, 4 leagues to the N.N.W. of Cape Boung-Quiona ; there is a small islet
2 miles outside of Sovel, and two hills inland about 4 leagues to the westward, called
the Mamelles. About 6 or 7 leagues to the N.W. of Tiger Island the soundings are
usually from 30 to 34 fathoms, and they reach from thence across the entrance of the
gulf to the west part of Hainan.
THE TONKING RIVER falls into the N.W. side of the gulf: two considerable TonkingRiver.
islands, amongst several others near the shore, are marks for its two principal branches.
One of these branches, called Rockbo, falls into the N.W. part of the gulf in about
lat. 20° 6' N., which has been frequented by the Chinese and Siamese vessels ; although
there is thought to be only 12 feet water in the channel at the entrance, soft mud.
to force a passage through the Paracels, they found that it was the main land they had mistaken for those dan-
gers ; consequently, steered to the S.Eastward along the coast.
2 Y 2
348 TONKING GULF. — TONKING RIVER.
About a league westward from it, and 2 miles off shore, lies Fisher Island, of moderate
height and small, which is a mark for the river.
The other branch, or principal river, called Domea, from the first considerable town
on its banks, falls into the gulf about 20 leagues N. Eastward of tlie former, in about
lat. 20° 50' N. Between these rivers there are many dangerous shoals, projecting
2 leagues from the shore ; and the whole coast of the gulf, to the peninsula of Jjui-
chew-fu, M'hich bounds it on the east side, is fronted by shoals and reefs, some of them
projecting a great way out from the main land.
The Kar. The bar of the principal river is composed of hard sand, liable to shift with the
tides, rendering a pilot necessary when a ship intends to proceed into the river. A
pilot may be got from the village Batsha, situated at the mouth of the river, by firing a
Directions. guu, and making the signal. The mark to approach the river is to steer for a moun-
tain inland, called the Elephant, bearing about N. W. by W., and when Pearl Island,
which is small, and which lies on the eastern side of the road, is brought to bear about
N. N. E. 1 league distant, it will be proper to anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms and wait for a
pilot; the bar will then be distant 2 or 3 miles. The Formosa, July I3th, 1080,
anchored in 8 fathoms, .sand, Tiger's Hook N. N. E., the Alcoran N. ^ E., Pearl Island
N. N. E. i E., and the Elephant N.W. by N., which was the best anchorage at that
time. On the bar there is only about 6 feet water at low tide, when the tides rise and fall
most; and 12 feet at low water, when there is little rise and fall ; at high water there
is in the former case 24 or 26 feet upon it, and only 14 or 16 feet in the latter case.
In the entrance of Tonking River there is but one flood and ebb in twenty-four hours ;
and when the moon is near the equator, twice every month, there is little or no tide,
being then dead neaps. With the moon's declination the tides increase, and when she
is in the tropical signs they rise most; only with this difference, that when the moon
has north declination, the tide flows when she is above the earth, and ebbs when she
is under the horizon, making high water at setting, and low water at the rising moon ;
whereas, the moon having south declination, makes high water at her rising, and low
water at her setting, the tide then flowing when she is under, and ebbing when she is
above the horizon.
Tides. The tides are highest in the easterly monsoon, for the current which then sets along
the coast of China to the westward is impelled by the strength of the wind through
the channels on both sides of Hainan, producing an accimiulation of water in the gulf;
whereas, the N.W. and westerly winds, which greatly prevail about this gulf in the
other monsoon, tend to force the water out of it to the southward.*
Inside the bar, the depths increase over a soft bottom, and the river, which is above a
mile in breadth at the mouth, becomes more contracted farther up.
Cachao, the capital city of Tonking, is about 28 leagues up the river. European
ships traded to this river upwards of 150 years ago, but this trade has been discon-
tinued for a long period, and the knowledge of the navigation of this gulf, having not
been carefully recorded, is now almost lost to Europeans ; and it will probably con-
tinue so, unless trade should revive, and be an inducement for ships to return to this
* At many of the eastern islands in the Indian Seas there is only one flood and one ebb during 24 hours,
which seem to depend on the moon's declination, as at Tonking, although not observed by navigators. At the
Island Baseelan, near ftlindanao, in Jlarch, where the Anna's long-boat went into Maloza River three times
for water, we found only one flood in 24 hours, high water at the rising moon.
In Canton River, although there are two tides in 24 hours, they are influenced great!}' by the moon's decli-
nation ; their height at times apparently depends on that, nearly as much as on her conjunction with, or oppo-
sition to the sun.
TONKING GULF. — HAINAN ISLAND. 349
place : the foregoing- remarks for this gulf, and for the rivers, ought therefore not to be
relied on implicitly.
If bound to Tonking in the South-west Monsoon, keep along the coast of Cochin-
China to Cape Chouvay, or to Tiger Island ; from thence, steer to the N.W. and
N. N. W., giving a proper berth to the west coast of Hainan ; the lead will shew the
approach to it by the quick decrease in depth when near its contiguous banks, which
should not be borrowed on nnder 16 or 20 fathoms. Having reached lat. 19° N., and
in 28 or 30 fathoms, if the Island Hainan has not been seen, a N. by W. course ought
to be steered to make the iNorvvay Islands, which are of middling height: the south-
ernmost is said to be in lat. 20° 35' N., about 13 leagues E. S. Eastward of the Bar of
Tonking River ; but the course steered and the approach to the river must be governed
by the tides or currents, which are frequently found to set out of the gulf
In leaving the bar in the North-east Monsoon, steer between S. E. and S. E. by E.,
which will bring you in sight of Hainan, the N.W. part of which must be avoided,
by not coming under 20 fathoms towards the sands, which are said to stretch out
6 or 7 leagues. Easterly winds prevail often in the gulf during the North-east Mon-
soon ; when outside in the open sea the winds are blowing at the same time from the
north-eastward.
HAINAN ISLAND, bounding the Gulf of Tonking to the eastward, extends Hainan.
about 55 leagues in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and is about 25 leagues in breadth.
It is in most parts very high uneven land when viewed from seaward ; but inland there
are many level districts, cultivated with rice, sugar-cane, areka, or betel-nut trees, and
tobacco. These cultivated plains are separated from each other by lofty mountains,
covered with impenetrable forests, through which the natives have cut narrow passes
in the most accessible parts, to enable them to go from one district to the other. The
island is subject to the Chinese, who hold all the places of profit or of consequence,
keeping the inoffensive aborigines in a state of abject poverty.
The N.W. coast is little known to Europeans ; some shoal banks are said to extend
or 7 leagues from the west part of it, which may be approached to 16 or 18 fathoms,
or to 15 fathoms in some places, the soundings being regular towards them.
The south and S. E. coasts are bold to approach, with soundings generally from
25 to 35 fathoms, very near or close to the headlands, deepening to 65 or 70 fathoms
about 5 leagues off; and in some places these soundings extend 6 or 7 leagues off
shore.
The south coast is indented with several fine bays, affording good anchorage, and
shelter from the North-east Monsoon ; each of them may be considered a safe harbour
during that monsoon, but they are partly open to southerly winds.
Yait-chew Bay, near the S.W. extremity of the island, in lat. 18°24'N., has some Yait-chew
islets in it, and moderate depths for anchorage, but is exposed to southerly and S.W. ^*^-
winds; it is the westernmost bay on the south side the island. A little way up the
river which falls into the bay stands the fortified town of Yait-chew, with a citadel or
fort to the westward : the governor of the island frequently resides here, it being one
of the chief towns.
Sv-CHEW Bay, a little to the eastward of the former, is exposed to South and West sy-chew Bay.
winds ; a little inland there is a hill with a pagoda or funnel ujjon it.
Sama, or Samoy Bay, the next to the eastward, distant 8 or 9 leagues from Yait- Sama Bay.
chew Bay, has several islets and rocks in it, with anchorage inside of tiiom for small
vessels. "A considerable river falls into' the N. E. part of the bay, with a small
350 HAINAN ISLAND. — SOUTH COAST.
fort at its entrance; and Saraa Town, the residence of a mandarin, stands near its
western bank.
vu.!iii.k.,n Yu-LiN-KAN Bay, in lat. ]8"10|'N., the entrance, separated from that of Sama
^"5- by a long, narrow point of land, has 22 fathoms, soft bottom, in the entrance, and from
11 to 7 fathoms at the proper anchoring place, in the N.E. arm of the bay, where ships
are sheltered in every direction, except between South andW.S.W. Several ships,
driven from the coast of China by ty-foongs at the beginning of the North-east
Monsoon, have been known to take shelter in this bay until the monsoon was over :
there is fresh water to the northward of an islet, on the eastern shore of the bay. To
the northward of the anchorage there is a passage into a lagoon, or inner harhonr,
where small vessels will be sheltered from all winds. Rocky or Foul Point, forming
the east side of the entrance, is surrounded by a rocky reef; but Sandy Point, on the
west side, has 4 fathoms within less than a ship's length ; betwixt these points, the en-
trance of the harbour is not above a quarter of a mile wide, and is more contracted by
the reef projecting from Rocky Point. To the southward of Sandy Point, about half
a mile, a reef projects a considerable way from the western shore, requiring care in
steering for the entrance. A ship may warp in, if the weather is tine ; or with a
southerly or easterly wind she may sail in, by keeping nearest to the eastern shore
until nearly abreast Rocky Point, then steer over for Sandy Point, and round it at a
small distance. The best time to enter the harbour is at low water, the dangers being
more conspicuous, and 5 or 5^ fathoms will be the smallest depth in the fair channel;
having rounded Sandy Point, and shut it in with the land on the east side the outer
bay, a ship should anchor in 5| or 6 fathoms, within a little less than half a mile of
the shore near Sandy Point, and should examine the bottom around with boats,
prior to mooring.
Gaiong Bay. Galong Bay Is Separated from that of Yu-lin-kan by a piece of high land about
Ij leagues broad, which forms the southern extremity of Hainan, and its most promi-
nent part is in lat. 18° 10' N., Ion. 109° M^' E. Tliis bay is about 5 miles wide, and
'S or 3i miles in depth, having two round islands, called the Brothers, in the entrance,
and one near the middle of the upper part of the bay, called St. Peter, or Middle
Island ; in the N.W. part there are some rocks above and under water, and the bottom
Diiettions. along the western side the bay is generally foul. With a leading wind, the bay may be
entered by any of the three channels : that between the East* Brother and eastern
shore has from 15 to 18 fathoms, coarse sandy bottom, and as a reef projects from the
north-east end of the Brother, it is prudent to keep in mid-channel, or rather nearest
to the main. The channel between the Brothers is very safe, the depths in it from 16
to 19 fathoms, blue clay ; but the western channel is the most convenient with a work-
ing wind, being nearly a league wide, with soundings of 18 or 20 fathoms from the
West Brother, until close to the S.W^ point of the bay : inside, the depths are 15 to 11
fathoms, good anchoring ground. A little way outside the Brothers the depths in-
crease to 35 and 40 fathoms.
Ships wintering in this bay during the North-east Monsoon moor in 7 or 8 fathoms,
dark sand and mud, at the N. E. part, with the village Galong bearing E. by S. about
a mile ; and a reef that lines the south side of the little bay contiguous to the village
must have a berth in mooring. Here, ships are sheltered from all winds, by the cir-
cumjacent high land, except those that blow between South and South-west, which
force a considerable swell into the bay. A small ship might xwoov U7ider fours, close on
* Captain Ross made the East Brother in lat. 18° 11' 20" N., Ion. 109^ 41 ^' E.
HAmAN ISLAND. — SOUTH COAST. 351
the north side of Middle Island, and be sheltered from all winds. Northward from the
common anchorage there is a white sandy beach, and a rocky part of the shore sepa-
rates it from the small bay to the eastward; on the N.W. side of these rocks, fresh
water is procured from a small run, that terminates in a pool close to the beach. The
tide rises here about 4 or 5 feet.
The fishermen will ask 80 or 100 dollars to carry a ship into this bay, but there piiotage.
is no occasion for a pilot ; after entering it by either channel, work or sail up between
Middle Island and the east side of the bay, which are safe to approach, and anchor
opposite the village. Small bullocks are procured at 7 or 8 dollars each ; rice, sweet supplies.
potatoes, and some other vegetables, may be got for dollars ; also fish, and some
poultry.*
LiEONG-soY, or ToNG-soY Bay, about 8 leagues north-eastward of Galong Bay, is a Meong-soy
large open anchorage; but sheltered from north-easterly and northerly winds by cent' coast;''"
anchoring well in towards the east side of the bay in 7 or 8 fathoms, with Lieong-soy
high rocky point, off which a reef projects some distance, bearing to the E, S. East-
ward. At the north part of the bay there is an inlet to a lagoon, near which stands
Lieong-soy town, the residence of a mandarin. Ton-kieou is another considerable
town farther to the westward, with a bay and some islands and rocks fronting it: a
river descends from the town into the north part of this bay, and a serpentine inlet from
the west side of it leads into a lake, where the country around is well cultivated, and
forms a beautiful plain, separated from the land that forms Galong Bay by a chain of
mountains ; and it was from the summit of this chain that we had a bird's eye view of
the circumjacent country.
The land to the eastward of Lieong-soy Bay is high, rocky, and barren, with 36
fathoms water within 2 or 3 miles of the shore.
TiENG-FUNG, Sky-wind, or Sail Rock, in lat. 18° 26^' N., and distant 3 or 4 ^^1^^^°^;^^"'^
leagues N. E. by E. from the S. E. part of the land that forms Lieong-soy Bay, is a tiieN^E.
rugged peaked rock, appearing like a Chinese junk in some views : the depths about
3 miles outside of it are 35 to 38 fathoms ; and there is a channel with 10 to 13 fathoms
between it and the shore, from which it is distant 4 miles. From this rock to the
island Tinhosa the distance is about 10 leagues N. E. by E., and there are three
islands near the shore in this space, with 12 and 14 fathoms water close to them. In-
side the easternmost of these islands lies the town of Manchow, and near the coast
abreast the westernmost there is a ridge of high land with three peaks on it, the centre
one most pointed, and a little higher than the others: this lies near the sea, and, at a
considerable distance, is sometimes mistaken for Tinhosa Island. Farther inland, in
about lat. 18°56'N., there is a high mountain, of similar appearance to the former, but
more elevated ; it was seen bearing W. S.W. nearly 30 leagues distant, then forming in
three peaks of sugar-loaves.
In moderate weather, sailing along the coast, bamboos may frequently be seen stand-
ing erect above the surface of the sea; they are the buoys of drift nets, which the
fishermen place sometimes a great way from the land, to catch flying fish.
Tinhosa Island is in lat. 18° 40' N., Ion. 110° 29' E., or 3° 15' W. from the Grand .'[•"Xr"
Ladrone by chronometers ; and in 1803 I made it 1° 4^' E. from Cape Varcla by mean
of three chronometers. It is formed of two hills, extending North and South, sepa-
* Having been disabled by a ty-foong, in the Gunjavar, September 24.th, 1786, we were obliged to take
shelter under Hainan, and remained in Galong Bay until the 1st of April foUowmg ; we walked inland at clis-
cretion, and found the natives very inoffensive. The island abounds with wood fit for fuel, but none ot tlietira-
ber seems durable, or proper for ship-building.
352 HAINAN ISLAND. — EAST COAST.
rated by a low gap, with steep cliffs fronting the sea ; and from the summit of the hills
the land slopes down to the eastward ; it is just discernible at 11 leagues' distance from
the poop.
The west side of the island being of a concave form, with soundings of 8 to 10
fathoms betwixt it and the Hainan shore, good shelter may be found against all winds,
excepting those which blow from the South, or S.W. ; it therefore forms a good har-
bour in the North-east Monsoon ; the entrance to it is about 3 miles wide, betwixt the
S.W. point of the island and the opposite shore. The Valentine took, shelter here, after
being driven from lier anchors close to the Grand Ladrone, early in October, 1763, and
sailed in March following for Macao. Tinhosa is steep to, on the outside; when pass-
ing it about a mile distant, we had 35 fathoms soft ground, and about 3 or 4 miles to
the eastward of it, 00 and 65 fathoms.
False Tinhosa. False Tinhosa, in about 18° 49^ N., and 5 leagues N. N. Eastward from Tin-
hosa, is an island of small extent, and middling height ; and when viewed from the
southward has a rock like a pillar at its eastern extremity.
coiisttotiie From False Tinhosa, the coast extends N. by E. and N. N, E. about 10 or 11
iiortinvHid. leagues to TooNGEEAN or ToNGEON high mountain; in this extent, the land con-
tiguous to the sea is mostly low and level, covered with trees, but far inland, the
country is mountainous. Tlie low part of the coast should not be approached under
15 fatlioms in passing along, for our Chinese pilot asserted that the bottom is foul and
rocky under this depth. To the northward of this low land the coast becomes again
high, and safe to approach : the high land projects a little to the eastward, and from lat.
Haiimn Head. 19° 43' N. strctchcs Horthward, forming Hainan Head, the N. Eastern extremity of
the island, in lat. 20° 0' N., Ion. 110° 57' E. The northern coast from hence taking a
westerly direction, an intricate channel is formed betwixt it and the peninsula of Lui-
chew-fu ; this channel is little known to Europeans, but the Hainan tishermen say it
is not very safe for large ships, being lined by sands and breakers. The east side the
North coast of pcniusula of Lui-chcw-fu is thought to be fronted by sands extending from the N. E.
Hainan. p^j.j, ^f Hainan a great way to the northward, and projecting to seaward. This bight
between the north end of Hainan and Tien-pak is very little known, but the Prince of
Wales, from Port Jackson bound to Canton, fell to leeward in January, 1797, and had
from 12 to 14 fathoms within 2 miles of the breakers on these shoals, with the north
end of Hainan bearing from S.W. to W. by S.
Kiong-chew-fu, on the north side Hainan, contiguous to the channel and shoals, is
a considerable town, where the Junks from China come to trade, and it is said to be a
good harbour.
The Taya The Taya Islands, Separated fi'om the high land of Hainan Head byasafechan-
chlfnnd. '"*"^*^ ^^^ 4 or 5 Icagucs wide, consist of two groups of high barren islands, six or seven in
number, with some rocks, which may be seen about 8 leagues from the deck ; the
pilots say there is a safe passage 3 miles wide between the two groups. They
extend N. E. by N. and S. W. by S. about 5 leagues, the northernmost being in lat.
19° 58|' N., Ion. 111° 14'* E., or 2° 30' West from the Grand Ladrone, by chronome-
ters. The southernmost island, in lat. 19° 49' N., seems one of the largest ; from this
a high sand-bank stretches to the N. N. Eastward, having regular soundings, 20 and
21 fathoms about 3 miles from it on the east side. AVhen these islands bear W.
by S. distant 7 leagues, the depth is 45 fathoms ; when they bear N. by W. about the
same distance, it is 48 fathoms ; and soundings extend on the parallel of the northern-
* Capt, Ross made it in Ion. IIP 16J' E.
HAINAN ISLAND. — SOUTH-EAST COAST. 353
most island, as far eastward as the meridian of the Grand Ladrone: theWarley had SfJ
fathoms in lat. 20° 25' N., with these islands hearing South, having heen driven to the
westward in a ty-foong, September 24th, 1803.
The depths iu the channel hetwixt these islands and Hainan Head are from 10 to
17 fathoms ; and there is in the western part of the channel, adjacent to Hainan, a high
peaked island, called Feou-kieou.
DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST OF HAINAN, BY CAPTAIN ROSS.*
HAINAN SOUTH POINT, in lat. 18° 9' 35" N., Ion. 10<)°34' 30" E., is bold, of South point oi
rocky appearance, and may be seen 8 or 9 leagues in clear weather ; about 8 or 9 miles "'*'"*"•
South from it, tlie depths vary from 40 to 45 fathoms, mud and sand, gradually de-
creasing to 27 fathoms about 1 mile from the land.
N.W. from the South Point 1^ miles there is another rocky point, which forms the
S. E. extreme of Yulinkan Bay, and in M. Omerat's Plan is called Point de la Take, Vuimkan liay
the S.W. extreme of which is 4^ miles farther to W. by N. About a mile to the north-
ward of the S. E. Point, and near the eastern shore of the bay, there is a small island
named Zonby, and 2 miles more to the N.W. a narrow passage leads to an extensive
salt-water lake. The usual anchorage for ships is in 9 or 10 fathoms, on a mud and
sand bottom, about three-quarters of a mile to the N.W. of Zonby. The Discovery, in
8 fathoms, had Zonby bearing S. 40° E., the S.W. extreme of the bay nearly on with a
point much nearer to us bore S. 68° W., and the lake's entrance was distant about a
mile. Yulinkan Bay cannot be a safe anchorage in the South-west Monsoon, for it is
exposed to the wind and swell from that quarter. A small ship may, however, proceed
sufficiently far into the lake to ride with perfect security, and to repair any damage. We
saw no hidden dangers in the bay, excepting the small reefs that extend a short way off the
shores. A ship, to enter the lake, must keep clear of a point of the reef, extending
nearly 300 yards off the western shore, about half a mile from the entrance ; and when
approaching the e;>stern point of the passage, as the rocks extend from it nearly half
channel over, she must keep close to the western point, where are 5 and 6 fathoms
water. The depth of water across the outer part of Yulinkan Bay varies from 15 to
12 fathoms, and decreases gradually to the shore. We did not perceive any stream of
fresh water in the vicinity of the anchorage, but observed some wells in a village, which Fresh water.
is at the back of the eastern point of the passage into the lake, and where bidlocks may
be obtained ; it was from this point our base-line was measured. The form of the bay
as represented in M. Omerat's plan is correct, but we differ from him in the size of it ; and
instead of the latitude of Zonby Isle being 18° If/, I made it in 18° 1 V 15" N.
From the south point of Hainan, 2^ miles eastward, there is a black rocky point, or
western extreme of Galong Bay, the eastern one being 5 miles farther to the eastward,
situated a short way to the northward of two small islands, named the Brothers.
Galong Bay is 3 miles deep, and there is an island about the middle of it, and caiong Bay.
several large dry rocks to the westward of the island. The usual anchorage for ships
is between Middle Island and the eastern shore of the bay, in 8 fathoms \Nater, over a
sand and mud bottom. In the Discovery, we had the East Brother bearing S. 28° E.,
* The survey of this coast was made by Captain Daniel Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, on board
the Company's 'surveying ships Discovery and Investigator, in 1817; it conuncnccd at Galong and Yulinkan
Bays, where base lines were measured on the shore ; after which, a chain of triangles was carried on from the
Island East Brother to False Tinhosa, and in that space, three bases were measured by sound, and every care
taken to render the survey correct.
VOL. II. 2 z
354 HAINAN ISLAND. SOUTH-EAST COAST.
the Western one S. 4° W., and the two extremes of the bay S. 41 f° E. and S. 50"^ W.,
distant about three-quarters of a mile off the eastern shore. At this station we expe-
rienced much swell with a S. E. wind, from which it appears to be a very unpleasant
anchorage durinc: the .South-west Monsoon. A small ship would find tolerable anchorage
close on tiie north side of Middle Island, in 4 or 5 fathoms water, and be in some degree
sheltered from swell ; the deepest water is near the island, and the bottom muddy, but
the depth decreases to 3 fathoms half-way towards the north shore of the bay, and the
bottom is sandy. We did not perceive any good watering place about the anchorage ;
but a short distance westward of Middle Island, and a few yards from the beach, met
Water and witli a large pond of fresh water, and saw many buffaloes and bullocks feeding near.
siipp les. YYe obtained plenty of firewood in a small cove near the anchorage. The depth of
water outside the Brothers varies from 25 to 21 fathoms, and within them it is from
15 to 12 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 6 or 8 at the anchorage. The passage
between the S. E. point of Galong Bay and the East Brother appears to be free of dan-
ger, as we did not get soundings in it, with 17 fathoms of line when in its neighbour-
hood, in a boat.*
East Brotiier. The East Brother is in lat. 18° 11' 20" North ; and in April, 1810, when we visited
Hainan in search of the True Briton East Indiaman, we measured with good chronome-
ters the difference of longitude between the East point of Tien-pe-hien Harbour and the
East Brother, the observations at both stations being taken on the shore with an artificial
horizon ; we made it 1°33' 30" W., which placed the island in longitude 10.9° 41' 30" E. :
at the same time, we made it 1° 28' 10" W . by chronometers, between the East Brother
and Turon watering place; and again, in 1817, by chronometers, 39' 40" E. between
Pulo Sapata and the East Brother.
Luengsoy Bay. LuENGsoY, LiEONG-SoY, or LiNGSOUi PoiNT, bearing N. 60° E. froni the East
Brother 23j miles, is formed by several high hummocks, having a sandy plain to the
northward ; when seen at 5 or 6 leagues' distance, the point appears like an island, the
most southern part of which is in lat. 18° 22' 30" N., Ion. 1 10° 0' E. The coast between
Luengsoy Point and the eastern point of Galong Bay forms a considerable concavity,
with several sandy beaches, and there are two small islands near the shore, in the
western part of the curve or bay, one of which is in lat. 18° 1G'30"N., the other to the
N. N. E. in 18° 19' N., but they are too small to afford any shelter for ships between
them and the shore. To the westward of the south part of Luengsoy Point 2 miles,
lie several dry rocks, extending to the westward, about three-quarters of a mile from
another point; and about 1^ miles farther N. by W. of this last-mentioned point there
is a narrow and very shoal passage between two sandy points, which leads into
an extensive salt-water lake. The Chinese have a small fort on the western point, and
the number of small junks at anchor near it indicate some place of trade on or near
the lake ; although in 1810, upon landing at the fort, only a few fishing huts about it
were observed.
There is no anchorage between Lueng-soy and Galong, where a ship could safely
ride in the southerly monsoon. In the Discovery, at anchor in 17 fathoms water,
the East Brother bore S. 48° 30' W., Lueng-soy South Point N. 88° E., and the Fort
N. 37° 30' E., distant about 3 miles. The depth of water at 10 or 11 miles to the South
of Lueng-soy is about 50 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 17 fathoms, after which it
decreases rapidly to 9 or 10 fathoms, and then regularly towards the beaches. The dry
rocks before mentioned are steep to, having 15 fathoms about half a mile from them,
* It was on the sandy beach, to the northward of Middle Island, that our base line was measured.
HAINAN ISLAND.— SOUTH-EAST COAST. 355
and the water is deep close around the whole of Lueng-soy Point, as we had from 25
to 21 fathoms about a mile off.
Sail Rock,* in lat. 18°26' 15" N., Ion. 110° 8' E., bearing N. 5G° 30' E. from the S. E. Saii Rock.
part of Lueng-soy Point, is one of a cluster of large rocksabove water, which from its
being higher and whiter than the others, has acquired the name of Sail Rock ; these
rocks are 4 miles off the coast, and apparently bold to approach, having 32 fathoms
water about 2 miles to the southward. The south point of Tinhosa Island bears
N. 55° SCK E., distant 23^ miles from the Sail Rock.
In latitude 18° 34' 35^ N., bearing N. 19°30'E. from the Sail Rock, distant 8| Saddle isiami.
miles, and H miles off the coast, there is an island, having two hummocks on it, named
Saddle Island.
A point of land, in lat. 18° 40' N., Ion. 110° 24' 15' E., and.3i miles to the westward
of Tinhosa Island, is the northern extremity of a considerable curve or bay, which the
coast forms to the westward, between this point and Lueng-soy Point, and in which
many sandy beaches may be seen, and very high land near the shores. We made the
highest peak in lat. 18° 36' 10" N.,lon. 110' 0' 45-^ E., which is about 2 miles in shore. High Peak,
and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues off; when it bears N. 71° W. it is over Saddle
Island. Besides Saddle Island and the Sail Rock, there are two other islands
on this part of the coast, one of which, called JNankin or Nanqueen, in the old charts, and of Nankin
is in lat. 18° 38' 20"' N., Ion. 110° 20' 45" E. ; the other is 4 miles to the westward of '''""''
Nankin, and both are about 1^ miles off shore ; they are too small to afford any shelter
behind them from the swell, although the depth of water about them is moderate,
being from 7 to 10 fathoms, and 2 miles to the southward it varies from 12 to It!
fathoms, on a sand and mud bottom. From Lueng-soy to the aforementioned point
the coast affords no safe anchorage in the southerly monsoon.
Tinhosa Island extends 2^ miles in a North and South direction, formed by two Tinhosa
high hills, which are connected by a narrow sand, overflowed at spring tides ; the ^^''""'•
southern hill is highest, and its summit is in lat. 18° 39' 42" N., Ion. 110° 28' 15" E.,
determined by angles from the East Brother. In 1810, by chronometers, made 45' 53"
West, difference of longitude between Tien-pe-hien Point and this hill ; again, in 1817,
made 59' 8" between the hill and Chinchow Island, on the south coast of China. The
channel between Tinhosa and Hainan is about 3 miles wide, and the depth of water
varies from 9 to 14 fathoms, excepting on a spit of sand, which extends about a mile
from the west side of the North Hill of Tinhosa, and on which we found so little as
4^ fathoms where we anchored, with Tinhosa bearing from N. 30° E. to S. 30° 30' E., off
it about half a mile, and Nankin Island bore S. 65° W. touching the point opposite
Tinhosa. The water was deeper near the island, where we had 5 fathoms. On the
North of Tinhosa, the mid-channel depth is 14 fathoms, decreasing a little towards
Hainan, and the shore is not so high as to the southward. The depth of water at 7
or 8 miles to the South and. East of Tinhosa is about 55 fathoms, and the island
appears to be quite free of danger, excepting a few rocks on the east side, close to the
low sand which connects the two hills. We did not meet with fresh water on Tinhosa.
Numerous amplitudes and azimuths, with two theodolites, taken on Tinhosa, made the
mean variation of the needle by one theodolite 1° 31' East, by the other 1°32' East,
and by a large azimuth comi)ass of Walker's 1° 38' East, nearly corresponding with
the same number of observations taken on the Brother, where it was 1° 29' East.
False Tinhosa is a small rocky island, in lat. 18° 49' 30" N., Ion. 110° 34' 15" E., False Tinhosa.
which may be seen 7 or 8 leagues, and is situated about 2 miles to the N. N. E. of a
* Tien-fung of the Chinese, or sky-wind.
2 z 2
356
HAINAN ISLAND.— SOUTH EAST COAST.
■J'oongeean
Mountain.
Toongeean
Point.
Tava Islands.
point on Hainan, that forms the N. E. point of the bay or concavity of the coast on the
INoith of Tinhosa Ishvntl ; and from this ])oint, the east coast of Hainan extends more
in a north and soutli direction, and is not so mountainous as the S. E. part. The
Discovery and Investigator passed between the coast and False Tinhosa in a good
channel, and anchored near the latter, in 17 fathoms water, with it l)earing from
S. 30° 30' E. to S. 54° E., and the dry rocks extending to S. 78° E., distant off False
Tinhosa about a quarter of a mile, and 1^ miles off the Hainan shore.*
There is a high mountain standing on a point of Hainan, which is named Toongeean
by the Chinese, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues off; and from there being no otiier
high land in its vicinity, may be taken for an island. The point near which it stands
forms the northern ternn'nation of a slight curve which the coast forms to the south-
ward, as far as the point opposite False Tinhosa. We made the mountain in Ion.
110° 59' 20''' E., but were disappointed of an observation for latitude, and have placed
it in 19° 37' N. by carefully measuring, with both the common and patent logs, the
ship's run from where it bore West, to where we anchored off the JNorth Taya Islands,
seven hours after, and got good observations for latitude. The point on which the
mountain stands is in lat. 19° 35' N., Ion. 111° 2' 20" E., and the depth of water was
from 18 to 20 fathoms about 2^ miles off it, on a foul bottom, and 38 and 40 fathoms
4 or 5 leagues off.
May 15th, at noon, we were in 21 fathoms water, with the South Taya Island bear-
ing East, distant 7 or 8 miles ; the largest island of the southern group bore N. 79 E.,
and the North Taya Island bore N. 61 E. ; we were about or 7 miles off the Hainan
shore, which, to the northward of Toongeean point, is very low and sandy, without cul-
tivation. We made 10| miles of northing and 10|^ miles of easting to our anchorage
off the North Taya Island, where we observed in lat. 19° 59' 30" N., and by chrono-
meters were 47' 52" East of Tinhosa Hill, and 12' 17" West of Chinchow Island, on
the coast of China, which placed the ship in 1 1 1° 16' 5" E. The North Taya Island
bore S. 35° 12' E., distant 1 mile; another smaller one near it S. 3° 30' E. ; and the
southern island of the north group bore S. 5° 55' W. The South Taya Island bore
S. 19° 22' W., distant 10 or 11 miles; the largest island of the southern group bore
S. 13° 15' W., and the western island bore S. 35° 25' W. 6 or 7 miles. The high
mountain of Toongeean bi)re S. 33° 28' W., and a very distant hummock in shore on
Hainan bore S. 33° 30' W. Between the North Taya Island and the next one to it
there is a rock, over which the sea just washes.
The Taya I.slands form two groups, with a passage 4 or 5 miles wide between
them, and they may be seen 4 or 5 leagues. We found from 21 to 29 fathoms water to
the westward of them, 35 fathoms about 4 or 5 miles to the South, and the same depth
about a mile to the North of them. The North Taya Island is in lat. 19° 58' 45" N.,
Ion. 1 1 1° 16' 45" E. ; the South Taya Island is in lat. 19° 48' N., Ion. 1 11° 12' 15" E.
The North Island bears from the Grand Ladrone S. 46° 30' W., distant 174 miles.t
* When hereabouts, the we.ither became very unsettled, and put a stop to our making more particular obser-
vations on the coast, obligina: us to stand off and on three or four days, when we proceeded to the Taya Islands,
and thence in search of the shoal in the Bashee Channel. But from my observations when we were near the
shore, and from the information of a good Chinese pilot we had on board the Antelope in 1810, it appears that
the East coast of Hainan does not furnish any place of safety for a ship to anchor in, and the bottom was in
many places mixed with coral rock. The land is better cultivated than to the southward, and from the number
of coco-nut trees, I conclude it is from this part of Hainan that the Chinese procure the coir, of which they
make the ropes; it is blacker than the Indian coir, and not so durable.
t In the few communications we had with the people on Hainan, they were found to be civil, and ready
enough to part with refreshments when the Mandarins were not present ; but whenever the latter appeared.
357
THE PARACELS, WITH THE BANKS AND DANGERS IN
THE NORTHERN PART OF THE CHINA SEA.
PARACELS.
THE PARACELS ^\ere(ormer]y delineated as a cotitiuiied laro-e bank, interspevsed General tie-
with groups of large and small islands, extending North and South from lat. 12'' to Palace'is/'^ """
about 161° or 17° N., with the nearest part of it within 15 to 20 leagues of the coast
of Cochin-China. Other shoals and islands, called Amphitrite, Lincoln, &c., were
placed nearly 3° farther to the eastward, with a wide space between them and the
former bank ; it is now certain, however, that all these dangers form only one archi-
pelago, consisting of shoals and low isles not far separated. This will be seen by the
following description of them, taken from the survey made by Captains Ross and
Maughan, of the Bombay Marine.
THE NORTH SHOAL, extending E. by N. and W. by S. about 2 leagues, is North shoai.
narrow and steep to, having soundings only on the north side, 14 fathoms within half
a cable's length of the rocks: the east end of this shoal or reef is in lat. 17' (f N., Ion.
11 1° 32^' E., and it appears to be the N. Westernmost danger of the Paracels.
THE AMPHITRITE LSLANDS are in two groups, lying N. N.W. and S. S. E. Amphiuite
of each other, and having a deep water channel between them. The nortliern group
consists of five low narrow islands, connected by a reef of rocks that projects 2 or 3
miles beyond their extremes ; upon the westernmost island there is a coco-nut tree,
from which it has received the name of Tree Island. The western extremity of this
danger is in lat. 16° 59' N., Ion. 112° 12' E., and it extends about 4 leagues E. S. E.,
the "eastern extremity being in lat. 10° 54' N., Ion. 112° 23' E. ; and it forms the
northern limit of danger in this part of the Archipelago.
There are no soundings on the north side, but good anchorage in 10 fatiioms, sand,
is got under the S. E. side of the chain, about half a mile from the rocks : no fresh
water is procurable.
The southern group consists of two islands, called Woody and Rocky Islands, lying-
very near each other.
Woody Island, in lat, 10° 50' N., Ion. 112° 18' E., is about 3 miles in circum- woody island.
they proved as arbitrary and rapacious as we found them on the coast of China. From what I observed, I
am inchned to believe that a number of bullocks may be obtained on Hainan, as they appeared to be plentiful,
although small. There are numerous fishing boats belonging to the island, built of a hard and heavy wood,
instead of the fir which the Chinese boats are built with, and they sail fast ; many of them go every year on
fishing voyages for two months, and navigate to seven or eight hundred miles from home, to collect tlie bicho
de mer, and procure dried turtle and sharks' fins, which they find amongst the numerous shoals and sand-banks
in the south-east part of the China Sea. Their voyages commence in March, when they visit the Northern
Banks, and leaving one or two of their crew and a few jars of fresh water, the boats proceed to some of the
large shoals nearly in the vicinity of Borneo, and continue to fish until the e.arly part of June, when they return
and pick up their small parties and their collections. We met with many of these fishing boats when we were
about the shoals in the China Sea.
358
PARACEL ISLANDS AND REEFS.
Rocky Islands-
Lincoln
Island.
ference, covered with small trees, and has a spring of very good water on its western
side, near some coco-nut trees. A reef projects around this island to the distance of
three-quarters of a mile, connected with Rocky Island.
Rocky Island, in lat. 16^ 52' N., Ion. 112° 20' E., is small, and nearly of the same
height as Woody Island ; there are no soundings to the J\. E. or eastward of it, but
irregular soundings extend 6 miles to the S. Westward of these islands, decreasing to
14 fathoms in some places. Close to the reef on the west side of Woody Island tiiere
are 25 fathoms ; and the depths decrease gradually from 30 to 15 fathoms towards the
Amphitrite, where a vessel may anchor if requisite.
LINCOLN ISLAND, in lat. 16° 40' N., Ion. 112° 42' E., is about 3 miles in cir-
cuit, surrounded by a reef to tiie distance of a mile ; it is low, covered with small
brush-wood, and has a spring of excellent water near three coco-nut trees in its
centre. There are 20 fathoms close to the rocks at the south and west sides, and the
soundings appear to extend about 2 miles oft', but the water is deep on the east side.
This is the easternmost island of the Paraceis.
Pyramid
Roclc.
Bombay Shoal.
Jehanghire
Bank.
Crescent
Chain.
PYRAMID ROCK, in lat. 16° 36' N., Ion. 112° 37' E., about 6 miles to the S.W.
of Lincoln Island, has no soundings close to; but the pilot said that soundings were
continued in a narrow line, from the south part of Lincoln Island to the shoal seen by
the ship Bombay Merchant in 1800.
BOMBAY SHOAL, in lat. 16° 0' to 16° 6' N., Ion. 112°26' to 112° 38' E., by
lunar observations and chronometers, is a reef of breakers of oblong form, about 4
leagues in extent E. by N. and W. by S., having apparently an entrance at the west
part, with deep water inside; some of the rocks are level with the water, and have
sandy patches on the inside of them. This shoal is steep to, for at three-quarters of a
mile off" the south side, the Bombay had no ground with 100 fathoms line ; and close
around it, Captain Ross in his survey got no ground. It seems to bear about South
from Pyramid Rock, for although the Bombay, by chronometer, made it several miles
more easterly than the longitude stated above from the survey of Captain Ross, it pro-
bably is not so ; because the Jehangire observed at noon, October 25th, 1806, in lat.
16° 5' N., Ion. 112° 52' E., by good chronometer, and no danger could be discerned
from the mast-head. On the following day this ship got upon a Coral Bank, in lat.
16° 18' N., Ion. 112° 35' E., and had 12, 10, and 9^ fathoms ; next cast 30, and in less
than an hour had no ground, drifting to the S. Eastward by the lead, being calm at the
time. This seems to agree with the account of the pilot mentioned above, that there
are soundings on coral banks in a line between Lincoln Island and the Bombay Shoal,
which, with those dangers, form the eastern boundary of the Paraceis.
THE CRESCENT CHAIN of islands and reefs, called by Captain Ross, Money,
Robert, Pattle, Drummond, and Governor Duncan Islands, extends from lat. 16° 27'
to 16° 32' N., and from Ion. ] 11° 29' to 111° 44' E. They consist of six low sandy
islands, connected by reefs, stretching nearly East and West in the form of a
crescent; at the east end of which, an elbow is formed, by part of the reef turning
rovmd to the S. Westward; on this part stand the Governor Duncan Islands, two in
number, with an opening of 4 miles wide, betwixt their contiguous reef and that pro-
jecting round Money Island, which forms the western extreme. This opening is on
the south side of the chain, and inside there are soundings ; but the ground is chiefly
PARACEL ISLANDS AND REEFS.
359
coral, with great overfalls from 25 to 5 fathoms. The best anchorage is close to the
reef, on the north side of the Governor Duncan Islands, where tiiere were some broad
patches of sandy bottom. Betwixt the Governor Duncan Islands and Drumraond
Island, which lies next them to the eastward, there is a narrow passage with soundings of
14 and 12 fathoms ; but it ought not to be attempted in a large vessel. On the south
sides of these three islands no soundings are obtained.
OBSERVATION BANK, in lat. 16° 35' N., Ion. 111^ 40^'
on the north side of the Crescent Chain last mentioned, and
part of it.
E.,
may
is small, and lies observation
be considered — ^^''•
as
Discovery
Shoal.
THE DISCOVERY SHOAL, or REEF, extends from the west end. in lat.
16° 11' N., Ion. 111° 32^' E., about E. by N. 5^ leagues, its eastern extremity being in
lat. 16° 16' N., Ion. 111°46|^' E. This long and dangerous I'eef is of the shape of an
extended oval, with an opening of one cable's length on its south side, having in it
overfalls from 2 to 20 fathoms, and a small opening on the north side. There are no
soundings about 20 yards from the I'eef, and scarcely 2 fathoms water over any part of
it, with many spiral rocks a few feet above the water's edge. The Hainan boats come
here to fish, from January to May.
VULADOR SHOAL, extending E. by N. and W. by S. 7 miles, has a few Vuiador shoai.
small spiral rocks above water, with high breakers, and no soundings at the distance
of a cable's length on either side. Captain Ross, in his survey, makes the centre of
this shoal in lat. 16° 18' N., Ion. 112° 2' E. ; the Portuguese Snow Vuiador, in her
passage from Macao to Manila, saw it, July 21st, 1807, and by chronometer made it
in lat. 16° 19' N., Ion. 112° 5' E., bearing S. 15° W. from Amphitrite Islands, distant
39 miles. She had passed to the westward of these islands on the preceding day, and
in steering to the southward had no soundings, nor did she see any other shoal but
that which has been named after her.
PASSOO KEAH, in lat. 16° 2' N., Ion. 111° 45' E., is a small sandy island to Passoo Keah.
the southward of Discovery Shoal, surrounded by a coral reef, having no soundings
near it.
TRITON ISLAND, or BANK, in lat. 15° 46' N., Ion. 111° 11' E., by chrono- Triton island.
meters, extends in a N.\V. and S. E. direction about 3 or 4 miles, according to a plan
of it sent to me by Captain Brown, of tlie Triton ; the north part is a sandy lump,
about 20 feet high, sloping down in a low point to the S. Eastward, with high breakers
projecting a great way in that direction ; another reef projects from its N.W. end, and,
like the preceding dangers, there are no soundings near it.
This is thought to be the southernmost and westernmost danger of the Paracels ; it
bears from Pulo Canton, which is the nearest land of Cochin-China, E. by N., distant
122 miles.
In June, 1815, Captain Maughan, in the Investigator, passed within a quarter of a Corai patches
mile of apparently some Patches of Coral, having, he supposed, about 6 or 8 covered?
fathoms water over them ; but no soundings could be got with 1 10 fathoms line at that
distance, and a boat could not be hoisted out to examine them, on account of the high
sea and blowing weather. These patches, seen at 2 p.m., are situated in lat. 14° 12'
N., and in Ion. 112° 52' E; but it is uncertain that they were real dangers.
360
CHINA SEA. — MACCLESFIELD BANK.
Tides and
currents.
At the Crescent Chain, and at some other of the Paracel Reefs, there are regular
tides during the springs; the currents run generally strong before the wind in both
monsoons, but in light winds between the monsoons they are continually changing
their direction amongst the shoals ; ships ought, therefore, never to come within the
limits of these dangers, if it can possibly be prevented, for they may be drifted upon
some of the reefs during calms, close to which there is no anchorage. There are several
channels betwixt the different reefs or shoals, from 4 or 5 to 10 and 12 leagues wide.
Macclesfield
Bank.
BANKS AND DANGERS.
THE MACCLESFIELD BAINK, discovered by the English ship of this name,
in 1701, is of greater extent than generally supposed, for the Fort St. David country
ship is said to have obtained soundings in lat. 15° 17' N. on its southern part ; and in
lat. 16° 19' N. by noon observation, the Stormont had 41 fathoms on its northern part,
and about 1 mile farther to the southward she had 14 fathoms water. The Cirencester
had soundings in lat. 16° 21' IV. on its north end ; the bank, therefore, appears to ex-
tend from lat. 15° 17' to 16° 21' N. : its length East and West is about 70 miles, the
western edge being nearly on the meridian of the Grand Ladrone, and its eastern edge
about 1° 10' E. of that meridian, by chronometers. The depths on this bank are
generally very irregular, from 25 or 30 to 45 or 50 fathoms, coral rock ; and in some
places, where the soundings are a little regular, the bottom is coarse or fine sand.
1 here appear to be gaps in some parts of the bank wliere no ground is obtained with
80 or 100 fixthoms line ; for several ships in steering directly over it, after getting
ground, have lost soundings for a considerable time, and obtained them again. The
Carron, in lat. 15° 27' N., and 30 miles East of the Grand Ladrone, by chronometers, had
13 fathoms, coral rock, and in ten minutes after no ground with 60 fathoms of line,
steering N.iX.E. and North; after running 10 miles, she got ground 14 and 16
fathoms, and carried soundings of 35 to 44 fathoms, steering North 8 miles, and again
lost ground; continued steering a north course 14 miles, and had no ground with 45
fathoms of line, until in lat. 16° 0' N. ; she then carried soundings of 38 and 44 fathoms,
steering 4 miles on the same course.
On the northern and eastern parts of the bank there are level patches of consider-
able dimensions, with regular soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom ; there
are also some patches on the southern and western parts, with 14 to 17 fathoms upon
them. In lat. 15°40'N., on the meridian of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, the
Gunjavar had ISand 14 fathoms water: in lat. 16° lO'N., and 32 miles East of the Grand
Ladrone by chronometers, she had 10 fathoms, coral: in lat. 15° 30' N., and 26 miles
East of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, she had 12^ fathoms ; and in lat. 16° 5' N.,
and 28 miles East of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, she iiad 10 fathoms, coral rock.
The Castlereaah, in lat. 15° 58' N., and 7 miles East of the Grand Ladrone by chrono-
meters, had 14 fathoms ; and in lat. 15° 43' N., and 3 miles East of the Grand Ladrone,
she had 40 and 43 fathoms, all coral rock.
The greatest extent of the bank. East and West, appears to be near its northern ex-
tremity, for Captain Eraser had soundings 1° 8' E. of the Grand Ladrone by chronometer.
In lat. 15° 56' N. and 1° 8' E. of the Grand Ladrone, by chronometer, the Thetis had
1 H fathoms, and carried soundings 3 or 4 miles farther to the eastward, deepen-
ing to 20, 40, 60, and 75; then 80 fathoms, no ground, when 1° 12' E. of the Grand
Ladrone.
The shoalest water seems to be on the northern extremity of the bank ; for in lat.
{
CHINA SEA. — ST. ESPRIT SHOAL. 361
16° 19' N., and 50 miles East from the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, corresponding-
with lunar observations, the Cirencester had a quarter less 10 fathoms, deepening
gradually until in lat. 16° 21^' N., then 55 fathoms, no ground.
The American ship Devotion had 8^ fathoms in lat. 10° 9' N. ; and the Milford
had regular soundings of 8i to 9 fathoms near an hour, steering to the N. Westward
over the N. E. part of the bank.
It has been said, there are 5 or 6 fathoms water on some parts of the Macclesfield
Bank ; but the least water found on it, by indisputable information, appears to be
8 fathoms; and there probably may be rather less, on some small patches of the coral
ridges. Although this bank seems free from danger at present, yet, by the progressive
vegetation, and consolidation of the coral into rock, the shoalest patches may, in course
of time, become so much elevated as to render them dangerous for large ships to pass
over when the sea runs hish.
Between the Alacclesfield Bank and the eastern limit of the Paracels it has been
said there are other coral banks, with soundings of various depths upon them; yet, in
the space of about 16 leagues, comprehended between the western edge of the Mac-
clesfield Bank and the Bombay Shoal, or N. Eastern limit of the Paracels, probably
no soundings are to be obtained.
SCARBOROUGH SHOAL, or MAROONA, on which the Scarborough struck in Scarborough
the night, September 12th, 1748, is a dangerous reef of rocks, little more than mid-way ^'""''
from the xMacclesfield Bank, towards the coast of Luconia. From the north end to the
middle of the shoal, it is about 9| miles in extent East and West, decreasing to a point
at the south end, steep to on all sides, having no soundings close to the rocks, of which
only a few are seen above water, scattered over different parts of the shoal. A fri-
gate, sent by the Spanish admiral from Manila, surveyed it in April, 1800, and found
it extend 8^ miles North and South, or from lat. 15° 4' to 15° 12f' N. ; the eastern part
3°6|' West, and the western part 3° 16^' West from Manila, by chronometers ; and the
nearest part distant 131 nautical miles from Point Capones. This makes the centre of
the shoal in Ion. 117°48^'E., Point Capones being in Ion. 120° 3' E. Captain T.
Robertson, in the Cirencester, passed close to this shoal October 20th, in the same
year, and made it 8° 47' E. of Pulo Sapata, by chronometers, or in Ion. 117° 49^' East.
ST. ESPRIT SHOAL, is imperfectly known in respect to its extent, and whether st. Esprit
it is really dangerous or not has not yet been ascertained. M. D'Aprcs places the '^'""'''
centre of it in lat. J 9° 33' N., and 55 miles West from the Grand Ladrone bi/ account;
it is 6 leagues in diameter, with 9 to 15 fathoms on its southern part, and on the north-
ern part there are rocks even with the water's edge. Mr. Dalrymple, on the authority
of the Asseviedo's account, has placed its centre in lat. 19° 6' N., and 39 miles West
of the Grand Ladrone; this vessel discovered it on her passage from Macao to Ma-
nila, May 17th, 1755. The Grosvenor sailed 2 miles on it in 1765; she got upon its
eastern part, had 6^ fathoms, and saw several spots, with apparently less water ; this
ship's position of the shoal and that assigned to it by the Asseviedo, agree with each
other. A French ship had 8 fjithoms on it in 17(i3; she agrees with the ships men-
tioned, in respect to its latitude, but states the l)ank to be small. The Milford, in 1789,
got upon its eastern part ; perceiving the rocks alongside, sounded, liad several casts
of 8 fathoms, and suddenly got out of soundings by hauling to the eastward ; siie steered
N. by E., and made the Grand Ladrone bearing aliout N. E. by IN.
Captain Ross, in the Discovery, June 24th, 1813, steering eastward, got from 25
VOL. II. 3 A
362 CHINA SEA.— PRATAS SHOAL.
<.
fathoms no ground, into 15 fathoms, coral, and having run about a mile, lost soundings.
Steered back to the westward, and at 11 hours 55 minutes a.m. again got on the bank,
and ran 3 miles across it; least water found was 10 fathoms. At noon, when in this
Po.itio„,by depth, observed the lat. 19° 30' 10" N., Ion. 113°6'E., or 3» miles West from the
Captain Ross. Q,.and Ladrouc by chronometers, in a run of 48 hours to that island.
This officer is of opinion, that the bank is of small extent, that the report of dry
rocks on it is erroneous, as the swell at this time was high, and would iiave produced
breakers on any very shoal parts ; whereas, no discoloured water was visible till in 10
fathoms, although the day was clear. But stiong ripplings broke on board the ship
when in the vicinity of the bank, which might be mistaken for breakers by persons
unacquainted.
The true situation of the St. Esprit Bank here given by Captain Ross agrees nearly
in latitude with D'Apres' account, but diflers 24 miles from that of the Asseviedo and
Grosvenor, which gives some reason to apprehend that two banks, detached from each
other, may possibly exist hereabout. The Althea, in 1806, passed close to discoloured
water in lat. 19° 36' N., Ion. 1 12° 17' E., or 1°48' East of Tinhosa; she hauled otffrom
it, but got no soundings in passing.
Piat;is Shoal. PRATAS SHOAL is of circular form, flattened on each side, w ith four obtuse
points: it is composed of cotal rock, level with the water's edge in many places ; in
other parts there are from 2 to 8 feet water over the rocks. On the IV. W. part, about
2 or 3 miles inside the edge of the reef, lies a low island of considerable size, and
foi'med of white coral, covered with coarse grass and shrubs ; it may be seen 3^ leagues
from a large ship's deck ; it is visible w hen near the southern extremity of the shoal,
but more conspicuous in approaching it from the west or northward.
The south part of the shoal is a continued range of breakers, steep to, extending
W. N.W. and E. S. E. ; the western side stretches N. N.AV. and S. S. E., and although
the water appears very shoal on this part, the sea does not always break ; the eastern
side does not break when the sea is smooth, for the Eugenia, October 22nd, 1805, was
within 3 or 4 miles of this side at noon before the shoal was discerned.* Wiien the
sea runs high, it appears, that breakers are seen mostly all round the exterior parts of
the shoal : but inside, the water is smooth, of a green colour, and seems pretty deep in
some places. Although it is steep to in most parts, there appear to be several spots
where a ship might find anchorage outside the breakers, in a case of necessity, particu-
larly on the west side ; but the best anchorage is to the north-westward of the island,
where soundings project 2 or 3 miles from the edge of the shoal.
Several navigators, by good chronometers, agree nearly in making the south end
Position of the shoal in lat. 20° 36^' N., north end in lat. 20° 52' JN. ; east side in Ion.
1 16° 52' E., west side in Ion. 1 16° 41' E. ; and the body of the island in lat. 20° 44' N.,
Ion. 116°42'E.
By good chronometers. Captain Mackintosh made Pratas Island 1° 40^' E. of
Pedra Branca, 2° IQh' E. of the east end of Great Lema, and 2° 54' East of the Grand
Ladrone.
Captain Ross, in the Discovery, with the Investigator in company, visited this shoal,
August 28th, 1813 : the first soundings got were 74 fathoms, fine coral, about 1^ or
2 miles off the N. E. point, and a little beyond that distance no ground. From
hence, steered along the north side, about three-quarters of a mile off the breakers, in
* The Frederic Adolphus, Swedish ship, was lost on the east side, September 4th, 1761 with the island
bearing W. N. W., and several other ships have been wrecked on this dangerous shoal.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. 363
soundings from 31 to 38 fathoms ; the Investigator, keeping about a quarter of a mile
off, iiad great overfalls from 10 to 24 fathoms. After rounding the N.W. point about
1 mile off, in 35 fathoms, rocky bottom, they anchored on the west side in 24 fathoms,
with the island bearing from S. 39^° E. to S. 65^° E., off its west end about U miles ';
N.W. pomtof the shoal N. N. E., distant 2 miles; and about half-way between the
ship and the shore, had 4 and 5 fathoms, then very shoal water.
• On landing, there was found to be a deep inlet or harbour for boats on the west side
of the island, which must afford shelter to the Chinese fishermen, who come here to fish
in the early part of the year; and upon the island was erected a Chinese temple, by
pieces of wreck, apparently that of a junk.
By observations taken on the island, Captain Ross made it in lat. 20° 42' 55" N., Position, by
Ion. 1 16° 44f' E. North-east point of the shoal in lat. 20° 47' N., Ion. 116° 53|' E. ; ^"^"'''" ^'"^
North-west point in lat. 20° 45' N., Ion. 1 16° 42|' E. ; and the ship's anchorage on the
western extreme in lat. 20° 43' N., Ion. 116° 41|' E. ; which situations were'fixed by
three good chronometers.
Pratas Island was found to bear from Pedra Branca S. 42| E. (true), distant 130^
miles; and from the north end of Great Lema S. 59° E., distant 157 miles.
The shoals which have been described in this section are the only dangers in the
northern part of the China Sea, which lie at a considerable distance from land.
SOUTH COAST OF CHINA, TO THE WESTWARD OF
CANTON RIVER.*
NO W-CHOW, in lat. 20° 58' N., Ion. 1 10° 26' E., bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., about Now-chow.
17 leagues from Tien-pak, and lying in the north-eastern part of the peninsula of Lui-
chew-fu, is a small port dangerous to enter, but when in it there is good shelter. This
place was a rendezvous of the Ladrones, whose vessels anchored in great numbers
alongside the forts and town, tlieir crews being part of the inhabitants. The Maria,
a Portuguese ship, went into this place for water, and was captured by the Ladrones ;
ships ought not to go into the harbour if not well armed.
OU-CHEUN, situated near a remarkable high bluff' rocky mountain projecting ou-ciieim.
from the main, considerably to the westward of Tien-pak, is a town, with a channel
leading to it ; where is said to be a harbour, with water on the bar sufficient for a
small ship.
The high bluff mountain bears from Sey-ho Point W. ^ S., and the coast to the west-
ward of this mountain is low and sandy, scarcely visible from the mast-head in 10
fathoms water.
TIEN-PAK, or TIEN-PE-HIEN, is the principal place on the south coast of Tie>..pak.
China, where salt is produced, and several hundred junks are employed transporting
it to Canton.
The high land on the N.E. side the road, called Lintoa, has the appearance of a
* Chiefly from the surveys of Captains Ross and Maushan.
3 A 2
364 CHINA, SOUTH COAST.
high, round mountain, in coming from the eastward ; it is separated from the other high
land to the eastward by an isthmus of white sand, and its southern extreme is called
Sey-ho Point. From this point E. by S. If miles, and 1 mile distant from the high
land, lies a reef of rocks, on which the sea often breaks, having 11 fathoms close to,
on the south side, with 7 fathoms regular soundings between it and the shore. From
Sey-ho Point, S.W. about half a mile, lies Pauk-pyah, a large white rock, having be-
tween it and the point 6 and 7 fathoms water. Foong-ky-chy, a small island, lies about
If miles to the westward of Pauk-pyah. Ty-foong-kyoh, about 2^ miles to the
S. Westward of the latter, is of considerable height, being the outermost island of
the road, in lat. 12° 22^ N., Ion. 111° 13' £., or 2° 31' W. from the Grand Ladrone by
chronometer.
Directions for A Small ship, in want of shelter from a N.E. or East gale, may keep near the reef
smim? into tiie gf j.^^j-g jq j-|jg eastward of Sey-ho Point, then between the point and Pauk-pyah, and
anchor in 4 fathoms, sand and mud, about three-quarters of a mile westward of the
point, with Pauk-pyah bearing S. ^ E., and a pagoda on the high land near Sey-ho
Point N. E. by E. ^ E. She must not go farther to the northward, for the bay is very
shoal in that direction, with a rock in it above water.
Large ships ought to pass about a mile to the southward of Pauk-pyah and Foong-
ky-chy, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, and anchor in 6 fathoms between the latter and Ty-
foong-kyoh, or rather a little inside this island, which will shelter them from S.W.
winds ; and Foong-ky-chy and Sey-ho Point will break the force of the N. E. and
East winds. From the N.W. side of Ty-foong-kyoh projects a shoal bank, with
only 2^ fathoms ; but directly inside its north point there are 6 and G^ fathoms, soft
bottom.
Tien-pak Harbour being small, and the bar being about a mile to the N. N. E. of
Foong-ky-chy, having only 3^ fathoms on it at high water, ships ought not to go into
it, unless they are in want of immediate repairs. When at anchor in the road, the coast
from Sey-ho Point to the remarkable blufl" distant hill to the westward appears as one
deep bay with a sandy beach, having high back land, and the entrance of the harbour
is not easily discerned.
If a ship intend to go in, she should anchor in 4^ fathoms, mud, between the north
side of Foong-ky-chy and the bar, to be ready to cross over at high water. To ap-
sunken Hocks, proach this anchoragc, coming from Sey-ho Point, or from Pauk-pyah, two sunken
rocks must be avoided ; these lie between the latter and Foong-ky-chy, with 5 fathoms
water close to them : they bear from Pauk-pyah W. | N., and from Sey-ho Point W.
by S. ^ S. ; it is, therefore, advisable to keep the highest part of this point bearing East,
in passing to the anchorage at the bar.
On the N.W. end of Foong-ky-chy there is a small sharp hummock, which hav-
ing been brought to bear S. S.W., a vessel may steer on the opposite point towards
the bar, and will shoal gradually. The best guide, after getting over it a little way, is,
for a person at the mast-head, to direct the course up channel between the two dry
sands ; or, if covered, to keep a boat on each side. The channel is not more than
half a mile wide, and in it the depth increases from the bar to 7 fathoms, mud, close
to a low point of sand that forms the S. E. side of the harbour; and here a vessel is
sheltered from all winds : this point is distant 2 miles from the bar, and bears from the
small brow of Foong-ky-chy N.N.E. f E.
The channel decreases in depth to 2^ fathoms, where the salt junks lie close to the
salt pans, about 2\ miles to the northward of the low sandy point, on which stands the
village, protected by small forts on each side the harbour.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — HAI-LING-SHAN. 365
To the north- westward of the bar about If miles lies Marble Rock, and near
4 miles more westward there is a reef of black rocks ; neither of these can be ap-
proached, the water being very shoal on that side the bar. The tide rises 8| feet on Tides.
the bar at full and change of moon ; high water at 12 hours. After the 1st of Septem-
ber there is almost a constant westerly current along this coast, running from half to
l^ miles per hour. Tienpak City is walled round, and is of considerable extent ; it Tienpak city.
lies at the bottom of the shoal bay on the N. E. side the harbour, and can only be ap-
proached in boats at high water, through creeks that intersect the extensive flat situ-
ated between it and the anchorage. A ship touching here in distress may procure tem-
porary masts, and get iron-work done in the city; refreshments of all kinds may be got
from the villages contiguous to the harbour. Some water may be obtained on the Island
Ty-foong-kyoh, at a small spring near the shore ; but the Chinese boats will bring it
from the city at a very moderate rate. It is prudent to send an officer to wait on the
chief mandarin, stating the supplies wanted, and a small present to him may be useful.
The Warley anchored off" this place September 27th, 180:}, after being disabled in a
ty-foong, and got from the mandarin a pilot and thirty Chinese, to assist in working
the ship to Macao ; she worked close along the coast, and was from October 5th to
November 4th getting from Tien-pak to Macao.
TY-CHOOK-CHOW, an island in lat. 21° 20' N., about E. by N. from Sey-ho Ty-chook-
Point, and one league distant from the coast, has rocks on the north side, stretching '^'"'^^•
to the N.W. and towards the coast; but there is anchorage on the west side this island,
in 6 fathoms, fine sand, about three-quarters of a mile oft' shore, where a ship will be
sheltered from easterly winds : the soundings are 7 and 8 fathoms betwixt it and the
reef to the eastward of Sey-ho Point.
CHIN-CHOW, bearing N. E. by E. i E. from Ty-chook-chow, distant 5| miles, is chin-ci.ovv.
high, and covered with grass; it should not be approached on the south side nearer
than 1^ or 2 miles, in 10 or 11 fathoms, for a reef of rocks projects S. ^ E. from it
about three-quarters of a mile, on which the sea generally breaks : close to the island
on the east side theie are 8 fathoms, foul ground ; to the westward, between it and
Ty-chook-chow, there are 7 and 8 fathoms, gravelly bottom. The coast between these
islands forms a deep bay with shoal water, having on the east side a fort, and an inlet
for boats, called Yue-tong, or Fish Pass.
SONG-YUE POINT, in lat. 21^ 31' N., Ion. 111° 40^' E., bearing from Chin- song-yue.
chow E. by N. i^ N. about 10 miles, is the S. Western extremity of the Great Bay,
at the N. E. part of which Hai-ling Harbour is situated ; close to it there are or
10 fathoms water. Approaching it from eastward three little hummocks appear near
the point, with a long sandy beach between them and the high land : the bay on the
west side is shoal, and Song-yue Town stands at its N. Eastern angle. The Brothers,
distant 3 miles N.N. E. from Song-yue Point, are two islets near tlie high land, having-^
rocks projecting from them about half a mile ; but about a mile to the eastward of
them there are 8 fathoms water.
HAI-LING-SHAN,* or Huiling-san, is a high island, extending E. N. E. and Hai-iing-.i.an.
W.S.AV. about 4 leagues, separated "from the coast on the north side by a narrow pas-
* Hai is literally sea ; and Shan a high island or mountain, in the Chinese language.
366 CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — HAI-LING-SHAN.
sage, and having an extensive shoal bay to N. Eastward, and tiie harbour is on the.
west side. Two small islands, sometimes called the Twins, and by the Chinese,
Mamee-chow,* bear from Song-yue Point E. by N. | JN., distant 10 miles; they are
in lat. 21° 34' N., Ion. 111° 50' E., and lie close to the S. W. point of Ilai-ling-shan,
being united to it by a reef and sand-bank. They form the outer point of Hai-ling
Harbour, and in coming from the eastward, being on with each other, appear as a
single island.
Directions for To Sail into the harbour, if coming from eastward, pass about a quarter of a mile on
ha'i'hom'""' "'* the south side Mamee-chow in 8 fathoms water, and round them about the distance of
a cable's length in 7 fathoms. On the brow of the western islet there is a remarkable
stone, and N. f W. from it about half a mile lies a sand-bank, having only 2^ fathoms
on it at low water spring tides. From the ^me stone, Deep-water Point, the next
prominent point to the northward, bears N. N. E., distant rather more than half a mile,
and the space between it and Mamee-chow is dry at low water. Having rounded the
western iVIamee-chow, steer direct for Deep-water Point, which pass at rather less dis-
tance than a cables length, for the edge of the 2^ fathoms bank is within 2h cables'
lengths of it.
From Mamee-chow the depths are 7 and 8 fathoms, until they increase suddenly to
9 and 10 fathoms near Deep-water Point. From this point N. N.E. f E., about a
mile, there is a small hill covered with trees, and a fort on its summit, not easily dis-
cerned : steer from Deep-water Point direct for the fort, until abreast of Teep-chow, a
small island about mid-way between them. After passing the point, the depth will
suddenly decrease to 6, then to 5 fathoms near Teep-chow, to the westward of which,
about a quarter of a mile distant, large ships should anchor with the fort bearing N.E.
by N. The anchorage is rather confined for more than two large ships; and although
this harbour is safe, it should only be resorted to by ships of large size, in a case of
necessity.
The bay between Teep-chow and Deep-water Point has only 2^ fathoms water;
here, adjacent to a small joss house in ruins, fresh water may be procured.
The harbour for small vessels is in the bay formed between Teep-chow and the fort,
where the depths are 8 and 9 feet ; the village Chino stands in this bay, where water
and refreshments are obtained ; carpenters and caulkers may be got to work on board,
and smith's work can be executed at the village.
About half a mile westward from Teep-chow the water is shoal over a sandy bottom ;
and deepens again in a narrow gap, to the westward of which there are breakers about
1:^ miles from the fort. There is a small peaked islet about 2 miles ]N. by E. from the
fort, and between them some rocks, dry at low water; a ship should not pass the fort,
the water to the northward being shoal.
The 21 fathoms bank is small and steep to the east side ; it bears S.W. from the
fort, and from Deep-water Point W. f S. On the N.W. extreme of Hai-ling-shan
there is a small peaked hill, bearing from Deep-water Point N. N. E., distant about
4 miles ; when this peaked hill and peaked islet are in one bearing N. N. E. ^ E., the
2J fathoms bank is on the same line of bearing. A small ship may pass to the west-
ward of the bank in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, but not advisable for a large one.
Tides. The tides are sufficiently strong to admit a ship to bac/i and fill from Mamee-chow
to the anchorage, as the channel is too narrow for working. It is high water about
8^ hours on full and change of moon at the anchorage, and the tide rises from 7 to 8
* Mammee signifies breasts or paps, and chow, an islet or small isle.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. 367
feet. The harbour may be considered safe for ships of any size, being sheltered from
southerly winds by Mamee-chow Point, and Mount-Look-Out, 740 feet high ; by other
high land of the island from East and N. E. winds, and by the high land of Koan on
the opposite coast from westerly winds. The west side of the bay, between Mamee-
chow and the Brothers, should not be approached under 5 fathoms, the bottom being
sandy, with shoal water under that depth.
Bluff Point, bearing E. by N. 3 miles from Mamee-chow, is high, and has 9 and biuh- Point,
10 fathoms water close to: between them, the land is cultivated, and forms a bay. *"'' ^'?"''"*'<*«
To the eastward of Bluff Point the land forms a bay with a large sandy beach ; and island.
4 miles N. E. by E. | E. from that point are two rocky islets close together, appearing
as three small iiummocks ; they may be passed at the distance of a mile in 7 or 8
fathoms. A little inland from these stands Sugar-loaf Hill, which does not shew its
peak when seen to the eastward of Bluff Point.
Close to the east point of Hai-ling-shan, and bearing E. by N. f N., distant 5^ miles
from the two rocky islets, there is a small island, having 7 fathoms close to it, and to
the east end of Hai-ling-shan ; but S.W. by S., 1^ miles from the small island, there is
a reef of rocks nearly covered at high water, which has 6 fathoms close to, and may be
passed about a mile off in 7 or 8 fathoms. On the east part of Hai-ling-shan, con-
tiguous to the sea, there is a remarkable patch of red sand, discernible when off the
Mandarin's Cap.
TY-OA POINT and BAY, about 5^ leagues E. N. E. from the east end of Hai- Xy-oa Point
ling-shan, and bearing from Mandarin's Cap N. N.W. ^ W., distant 16^ miles, is in ^"" ^^^y-
lat. 21° 43' N., Ion. 112° 15' E. The depths decrease regularly coming from Manda-
rin's Cap to 4^ fathoms at low water, close to Ty-oa Point ; inside the point, and in
the extensive bay to the N. W., the water is shoal. Ty-oa Village is round within the
point, and is the residence of a mandarin ; here, a large ship might procure water, or
get a letter forwarded to Canton, but the water is too shoal to anchor under shelter of
the point, except for small vessels. There is a white building amongst some trees on
an elevated point a little inside Ty-oa Point, by which the approach from the soutii-
ward to this place may be known. A small vessel may anchor within half a mile of
the point in 3 or 3^^ fathoms at low water, and be sheltered from easterly winds ; but
she must not go near the island that lies a little inside, as some rocks covered at high
water, with 4 fathoms close to them, project to the southward of it; they bear from
Ty-oa Point W. ^ N., distant 1^ miles. Close to the town there are 2^ fathoms water,
where the salt junks take shelter when chased by the Ladrones, and are protected by
two old batteries.
The following islands and rocks lie off the coast, between Hai-ling-shan and Haw
cheun.
MANDARIN'S CAP, called FAN-SHEE-AK* by the Chinese, in lat.21°28' N., ^lami^'n-'s
Ion. 112° 22^' E., is a barren white rock, about 200 feet high, converging gradually to
the summit, and terminating in a sharp peak : near it, to the nortiiward, lie two other
rocks, one of which is very small. From Mandarin's Cap, Nain-oa Harbour bears
N. E. by E., distant 13 miles, and the south end of St. John Island K by N. ^ N., nearly
8 leagues. On the south and west sides there are 15 and 1 6 fathoms, mud bottom, within
a cable's length of the rock, and 13 fathoms a little to the northward. Off these rocks
* i. c. White Rock.
368
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — ISLANDS.
Currents. in August and September, when easterly winds frequently prevail, the current some-
times sets to the westward 3 miles per hour ; abating only to li miles per hour when
tl)e tide, under ordinary circumstances, would be setting to the eastward. The
westerly current constantly prevails along this coast during the Easterly Monsoon,
and frequently in the South-west Monsoon, particularly if the wind veer to the
eastward.
Nam-rang. NAM-PANG, bearing N.W. byW. | W., distant lOj miles from Mandarin's Cap,
being the next island to it, is high at the west end, and about H miles in length ; on
the north side, a small bay nearly separates the island into two parts. It is safe to
approach, having 9 and 10 fathoms near the shore all round, but it is destitute of fresh
water.
Roiindisiand. ROUND ISLAND, bearing West 3^ miles from Nara-pang, is small, and named
from its appearance ; to the S. S. Westward of it about 2 miles there are two rocks
above water, with 10 fathoms depth betwixt them and the island, and no hidden
danger.
THE QUOIN is an islet, resembling a gunner's quoin, lying close to the east side
of Neewok Island, and 2f miles N. N.W. of Nam-pang ; the passage between it and
the latter has 8 and 9 fathoms water, and clear of danger.
NEE-WOK is an island of moderate height, about a mile in length, bearing from
Nam-pang N.W. f N. about 3-^ miles ; there is a small rock above water betwixt it
and the Quoin, but no other danger ; the depths being 8 and 9 fathoms close to it all
round.
Quoin.
Nee- wok.
Ty-wok, TY-WOK, in lat. 21° 39' N., about 1^ miles N. N.W. from Nee-wok, and the
N. Westernmost of these islands, is high, appearing like a saddle when viewed from
S. Westward. There is a little bay on its north side, where fresh water can be pro-
cured, to the westward of a small temple near the beach. There are 8 fathoms, soft
bottom, in the passage between this island and Nee-wok ; and S.W. by S. one mile
from Ty-wok, and N. W. ^^W. from the summit of Nam-pang, there is a rock nearly
level with the surface of the water, with 7 fathoms all round. It is generally visible
3 or 4 feet above water, and the sea always breaking upon it, renders it conspicuous in
passing. The depths between Ty-wok and the east end of Hai-ling-shan, from which
it is distant 7 miles, are 7 and 8 fathoms ; and to the N. Eastward, betwixt it and
Ty-oa Point, they are 5 and 6 fathoms.
Moiig-chow. MONG-CHOW, in lat. 21° 39' N., Ion. 112° 29' E., a short distance westward from
Haw-cheun, and bearing N.N. E. from Mandarin's Cap Hi miles, is a high island,
about 2j miles in length, covered with verdure: there is a town near its summit,
only discernible from S. Eastward ; and at a short distance from the south side the
island lies a higii rock, with 4 fathoms close to ; there are also some rocks off the N. E.
point.
Small vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms at low water, on the west side this island,
during easterly winds; and fresh water may be procured at a small beach on that side,
near the south point. Between the north end of the island and the coast the water is
very shoal, and there are only 2 fathoms at low water, in the channel betwixt it and
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — NAM-OA HARBOUR. 369
Haw-cheiin ; but the bottom is all soft, with a very regular decrease in depth from
Mandarin's Cap to these islands.
HAW-CHEUN, or FALSE ST. JOHN, is a high island, extending: N. E. and Ha«-.cheun.
S.W. about 11 miles. The S.W. end, in lat. 21° 35' N., Ion. 112° 31^' E., is a bluff
point, having 7 and 8 fathoms water close to, and bears VV. ^ N. from the south end of
St. John, distant about 14 miles. Close round this point on the west side there are
two small bays, with sandy beaches, having 3^ fathoms water, where small vessels may
take shelter. A large ship is sheltered from easterly winds by anchoring in 5 or 6
fathoms, soft mud, about a mile off: in the Gunjavar, of Surat, in 1787, we anchored
here in 6j fathoms, about 1^ miles offshore, with the south point of llaw-cheun bear-
ing S. E.~by S., the village Ty-han E. N. E. ^ N., observed lat. 21° 36' N. At this
village, a few bullocks and other refreshments may be procured, and fresh water in the
southernmost small bay. This anchorage is generally called Haw-cheunRoad, or Bay.
NAM-OA HARBOUR, or HAW-CHEUN HARBOUR, named from the village Nam-oa
Nam-oa, situated therein, is formed between the S.W. end of Haw-cheun and Nam-oa, ""'"''"'"^
an island a little to the eastward, which fronts the south end of Haw-cheun. Although
rather small, this harbour is safe and convenient for refitting a ship, after being dis-
abled by a Ty-foong, or otherwise requiring shelter. The south or large entrance,
betwixt Nam-oa Island and the high bluff S.W. point of Haw-cheun, is three-quarters
of a mile wide ; having an islet on the east side, called Passage Island, joined to the
west point of Nam-oa Island by a few rocks. Passage Island is in the same latitude as Passage
the S.W. point of Haw-cheun, 21° 35' N., and in Ion. 112° 34^' E., by chronometers ^''^"''
from Macao. This south entrance is about 1 j miles eastward of the high bluff S.W.
point of Haw-cheun, and is preferable to the eastern entrance for ships drawing above
16 feet water; having 6 fathoms in it, gradually decreasing to the sandy beach at the
village fronting it, and no danger whatever. With an easterly wind, the best anchorage
for a large ship is about half-way between Passage Island and Green Point, which has
a round mount on it covered with grass, and forms the N.W. point of Nam-oa Island ;
here, she will have 4^ or 5 fathoms, soft mud, at low water, according as her berth is
near to or farther from Nam-oa Island. She will be sheltered by this island, which is
548 feet high, to the eastward, and by the high land of Haw-cheun to the northward,
round to S.W. ; from whence, if it blow strong, along ground swell rolls in, rendering-
it necessary to move farther in, to the western part of the harbour, where is 4^ to 4
fathoms, mud, at low water.
The eastern entrance, formed betwixt Nam-oa Island and the S. E. part of Haw-
cheun, has 4^ fathoms, gradually decreasing inside to 3i fathoms at low water spring
tides ; and although it is the most contracted of the two, will be found very con-
venient for small ships. The best berth here for a small ship is abreast the sandy
beach on Nam-oa Island, which forms Green Point ; not so far in as to open the south
entrance, but to see it over the narrow neck of that point. In this berth, slie w ill have 3
fathoms at low water spring tides, and will be in a good situation to i)rotect her boats when
watering ; although exposed to the wind between E. N . E. and E. by S., no swell of con-
sequence can roll in, being prevented by the islands that lie contiguous to the entrance.
To enter the harbour by this channel, coming from eastward, after rounding the To<aiitotiic
south end of St. John pretty close, steer about W. by N., or, if the ebb is running, ea" m'.'en-""^
more northerly, which course will bring a vessel near the Boat Rock, that bears from St. tnime.
John South Point, W. | N., distant 7 miles : it has 7 fathoms water close to, is about
VOL. II. 3 B
370
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — ISLANDS.
Waterirg
place.
Tides.
the size of a small boat, never entirely covered, and the sea generally breaks on it. To
the northward of this rock about three-quarters of a mile lies Round Island, being; the
southernmost of a chain of rocky islets, that fronts the east side of Haw-cheun. Hav-
ing passed to the southward of the Boat Rock at a small distance, steer from it about
W. N.W. for the entrance of the harbour, distant 3 miles. From the S. E. part of
JNam-oa Island, a few rocks project about a quarter of a mile, which have 7 fathoms
close to them, and must be left to the southward in entering the harbour.
There are several watering places about the harbour, the largest and most con-
venient of which is in a sandy bay on Haw-cheun, bearing from Green Point N.N.E. ;
here the water comes close to the beach.
Barren Island, about a mile to the northward of Green Point, has a white conical
rock inside of it ; both are connected with Haw-cheun at low water, and separate
Watering Bay from Nam-oa Bay, where the village* of this name, consisting of about
100 brick houses, is situated at a small distance from the shore. Here, a few refresh-
ments and fish may be procured : but the surf renders the landing difficult, when the
wind blows strong from the southward : it is then proper to land to the eastward of
Barren Island. High water at full and change of moon, about 10 hours, rise of tide 7
to 8 feet ; and then, a small drain of ebb sets out through each of the channels.
Five Islands, THE FIVE ISLANDS, fronting the east side of Haw-cheun, are mostly small,
Haw^-'cbeun. ^"^ bouud the west side of the channel, formed between it and St. John. Round
Island, the southernmost of them, and the rock bearing S. by E. ^ E. nearly three-
quarters of a mile from it, have been mentioned above ; there are also other rocks,
high above water, near it on the south side. The next island to the northward of
Round Island is the largest of the group ; high at each end, and nearly separated in
the middle, with some rocks close to it on the east side. The third island is high, and
covered with grass. The fourth, called Pi-pa-chow, is of middling height, covered
with grass, having some rocks above water projecting oflf its south end ; there are
4^ fathoms water close to these rocks, and between them and the other island to
the southward, and the same depth close to the east side of Pi-pa-chow. The fifth,
or northernmost, of these islands lies nearest the Haw-cheun shore, with 4 fathoms at
low water betwixt it and that shore. There is no hidden danger near these islands,
and a ship drawing not more than 15 feet water may either pass, or anchor between
them and Haw-ciieun, keeping rather nearer to the islands : here, she will find shelter,
in 3 or 3| fathoms, soft ground, at low water, and can be supplied with refreshments
from the town of Haw-cheun, which stands in a small bay fronting the islands.
All the space between these islands and St. John is clear from hidden dangers, with
depth.s of 5 and 6 fathoms, soft ground. The tides are strong in the springs, the ebb
setting out, and the flood to tlie northward through the channel, and rise and fall about
8 feet. During the neaps they are weak, and much influenced by the winds.
To the northward of the Five Islands the depths increase to 4^ and 5 fathoms, in a
direct line towards the west point of St. John, and continue the same in passing about
mid-channel between this point and the island that lies ofi" the N. E. end of Haw-cheun.
Safe anchorage. Here is the narrowest part of the channel, which is about a mile wide, where ships may
be sheltered during bad weather. Water may be got on St. John almost in every
* Strangers landing here, or at similar places where there is no fort, nor resident Mandarin, ought to be on
their guard, in case of meeting with any of the crews of the Ladrone boats ; for they frequently land, and put
the defenceless villages under contribution, and might make prisoners of Europeans, when that can be done with
safety, in hope of getting a large sum for their ransom.
COAST. — ISLANDS. 37 1
small bay. The entrance of the channel, generally called St. John Road or Bay,
between the south part of St. Jolin and the Five Islands, is more open to blowing::
weather, for some ships at anchor there have been obliged to cut their cables and put
to sea ; the Bombay, after cutting away her main-mast in a Ty-foong, to prevent being
driven on the rocks, was afterwards obliged to cut from her anchors, and tiie pilot ran
her on shore in the mud, upon the coast to the westward of Mong-chow ; here she
remained one spring, and was obliged to take out part of her cargo before she floated.
ST. JOHN ISLAND, or CHANG CHEUN-CHAM, in length about 5 leagues st. John
N.N.E. and S. S.W., has been srenerallv considered as two islands : in comins; from east- .^*'''"^>/"<i "''-
1 1 1 1 • 1 1 ■" 1 ' 1 • 111 jacent dangers.
ward or westward, the high land on each extremity appears separated by a large gap or
vacant space, which, on a near approach, is found to be a low narrow isthmus of sand,
uniting the high land, and having a bay on each side.
On the east side the island the depths are 7 and 9 fathoms near it, and no hidden
danger, excepting a small rock visible only at low water ; it lies in 7 fathoms nearly a
mile off shore, and about 2 miles to the southward of the N. E. point of the island,
opposite a bluff point, from whence the land stretches to the S. Westward. Distant
from the N. E. point of the island about three-quarters of a mile there are some rocks,
always above water, with a passage of 8 and 9 fathoms between them and the point ;
and to the northward of them there are 5 and 6 fathoms. The north side of the island
extends about 11 miles N. E. by E. and S.W. by W., having two small bays separated
by a narrow peninsula ; the western one, called Sam-chow-tong, or Tree Island Bay, is
the largest, with several small islands in it, and only 2f fathoms water within the point;
there is a village in this bay, where refreshments may be got. All this side the island
is free from danger, tlie depth generally between 4 and 5 fathoms near St. John, de-
creasing gradually towards the land to the northward, which is distant or 7 miles.
The bottom is all soft mud, and probably the N.W. side of St. John is a safe place
during a Ty-foong : if a ship drag her anchors and settle in the mud, the risk of sus-
taining damage cannot be great. Several ships drawing 19 or 20 feel water are car-
ried by the pilots betwixt Haw-cheun and St. John, round the north end of the latter,
and between the Great and Little Wizard Rocks. In April, 1787, we went through
this channel in the Gunjavar, drawing 20 feet.
The large bay on the west side St. John, opposite the sandy low isthmus, extends
into the island a great way; but a ship cannot enter it, the water being shoal. From
the west point of St. John, which forms the north side of this bay, Shittoe Point
bears S. by E. f E., distant 4| miles, and separates it from Shittoe, or Sat-tye Bay,
which is on the S. E. side the latter point. This bay has G and 7 fathoms water at the
entrance, and a small vessel may go farther in, and anchor in 4 or 3^ fatiioms ; but it
is too narrow for a large ship, unless she were to warp in. There is a watering place
at the south side the entrance, and a village at the bottom of the bay ; which, with
several others on the island, have suffered much from the depredations of the Ladrones,
who often haul their vessels up here to clean their bottoms. Close to the islet and
detached rock off the N.W. point of the bay there are 6 fathoms water.
Between Sat-tye Bay and the south point of St. John there is another small bay,
having G fathoms water, and 10 fathoms close to some rocks, which lie off its south
point.
WY-CAUP, a small high rocky island, in lat. 21° 34' N., Ion. 112' 47i' E., fronts wy-caup.
the south end of St. John Island, and lies on the east side the point, being separated
3 B 2
372 CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — ISLANDS.
from it by a narrow passage: there are 13 and 14 fathoms close round this island on
the outside.
i.ieu-ci.ew. LIEU-CHEW, or OU-CHOW, in lat. 21° 36' N., of moderate height and barren
aspect, is separated from Wy-caup and the S. E. part of St. John by a safe channel 2
or 3 miles wide, with 13 to 15 fathoms water; and there is deep water close to the
island all round, 17 and 16 fathoms on the south side, 13 fathoms on the north side,
decreasing gradually to 10 fathoms close to the outermost Wizard Rocks, from which
it bears S.W. ^ S., distant 4 leagues.
Wizard Rocks. THE WIZARD ROCKS, off the south end of Ty-kam, between St. John and
Cou-cock Island, are separated into three divisions ; the outermost division consists of
a group of five or six rocks, about 30 feet high, in lat. 21° 47' N., Ion. 11.3° U' E.,
having 10 fathoms, mud, at the distance of a cable's length from them. The Great
Wizard Rock bears from the outer group N. by W.| W., distant 1^ miles, and 2 miles
northward from it lies a white conical rock, called the inner or small Wizard Rock ;
near the great rock the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms, and near the small one about 5
fathoms, soft ground. Betwixt them, but nearest the Small Wizard, there is a rock,
covered at high tide, making it necessary for a ship passing betwixt them to keep
nearest to the Great Wizard. There is another rock, always above water, bearing from
the Small Wizard W. by N., having 4 fathoms near it; and there is a passage with
4^ fathoms water betwixt the Small Wizard and the south point of Ty-kam.
Ty-kam. TY-KAM ISLAND, in lat. 21° 52' N., close to the northward of the Wizard
Rocks, is of considerable height, of darker aspect than the other land, and in clear
weather appears with red streaks : on the south part, in a small bay fronting the
Wizard Rocks, behind a mound of sand near the beach, there is a village, and fresh
water may be got at the western side of the beach. Between this island and Toon-qua,
the next island to the westward, the water is shoal, and also in the large space to the
westward of Toon-qua.
cou-cock. COU-COCK, the next island to the eastward of Ty-kam, is high, and extends about
31 miles East and West : the S.W. point, in lat. 21° 50' N., Ion, 113°7i' E., has a re-
markable rock close to it, resembling a boat under sail. The west side of the island is
formed by a steep hilly ridge stretching North and South, having good anchorage
under it in 6 fathoms, where ships are sheltered from N.E. and East winds ; and there
are 6 and 7 fathoms close to the south side of the island.
Ty-mong. TY-MONG IS a considerable island to the northward of Cou-cock, having an islet,
called Sam-cock, joined to its S.W. point by rocks visible at low water. Betwixt
Ty-kam and Sam-cock, the depths are 5 and 4^ fathoms ; and there is a channel,
about ]i miles wide, betwixt the latter and the N.W. end of Cou-cock, bavins: in it
3^ and 4 fathoms. A vessel proceeding through it should keep close to Cou-cock, and
will have 4 or 3J fathoms water on the north side this island, where fresh water may
be got at the westernmost of two small bays, formed on the north side the island.
Ty-ioo. TY-LOO is a high island, with a large tvhite patch on its eastern side, resembling
a ship's mizen or mizen stay-sail, when viewed in some directions. This island is
separated from Cou-cock by an opening about 2 miles wide, with 7 and 6 fathoms water
CANTON RIVER. — THE BROADWAY. 373
in it, decreasing gradually towards Ty-mong, which fronts the opening to the N.
Westward. By passing close round the east point of Cou-cock, it appears that ships,
with a moderate draught of water, might anchor to the northward of that point in 5
fathoms, sheltered from most winds : and small ships may find good shelter from east-
erly winds, by anchoring close under the west part of Ty-loo in 4 fathoms. 'J'he
south end of Ty-loo is in lat. 21° 52i' N., distant 9^ leagues from the Grand Ladrone ;
and it is safe to approach, having 6 and 7 fathoms close to the South and S.E. sides.
CANTON RIVER.
OUTER ISLANDS AND CHANNELS.
SHIPS approaching the COAST of CHINA, particularly those of small size,
ought always to have some guns ready, in order to repel any attack that may he made
by the Ladrones, or other piratical boats, which are sometimes mistaken for lishing
boats.
The Singapore Chronicle states, that the ship Troughton, which sailed from that
port June 18th, 1835, was attacked by about 30 Chinese fishing boats, 100 miles to the
S. W. of Macao, on the 6th July ; and was boarded by 300 men, who lashed the
officers and crew to the deck. They plundered the Troughton of 50,000 dollars, and
of merchandize to an equal amount.
SAM-CHOW, forming the western side of the entrance to the Broadway, is the sam-cUow.
next large island to the N. Eastward of Ty-loo; the space between them is shoal, with
some islets and rocks adjoining the N. E. end of the latter. The depths decrease
gradually off Sam-chow, but it is not so bold to approach as the islands to the west-
ward, for shoal water, of 3 to 4 fathoms, extends out from it a considerable way ; there
is a conical islet and some rocks nearly touching its east point, with 3 fathoms water
close to them.
MONTANHA, forming the eastern side of the entrance to the Broadway, is a Momanin..
large high island to the N. E. of Sam-chow, and close to it on the N. E. side is the
Island ko-ho ; these two islands bound the Typa on the south side ; and the entrance
or great channel leading to Canton River is bounded by them on the west side, and
by Potoe and the other islands adjacent on the east side.
The entrance to the BROADWAY is formed, as above stated, by Montanha on the uroadway.
east, and Sam-chow on the west side, and has sufficient depth to admit a large ship a
considerable way up. It may be found very useful to such as intend to make a long
stay near Macao, or to those who have parted from their anchors, and draw too much '
water to attempt the Typa.
The Water Islands are two small islands close off the south end of Montanha ; one Water islands.
mile N.W. ^ N. from them lies another small island, having a little bay, called Lark
Bay, betwixt it and the west point of Montanha, with 2\ lathoms in it at low water :
374 CANTON RIVER. — THE BROADWAY.
these islands are on the east side the Broadway Entrance, and the conical hill at the
S. E. end of Sani-cliow, bearing S.W. by W., distant 4 miles from the Water Islands,
is on the western side.
Directions for The best time to enter the Broadway is with the first of the flood, and if a ship at
i!ro"(h™ ° "'" anchor in Macao Road be obliged to run for it with a N. E. or East wind, about
three-quarters ebb will be the best time to leave the road, that she may meet the first
of tiie flood w hen she reaches the Broadway Entrance, where it flows sooner than in
the road. Having rounded Ko-ho or Cow-ow Point in 5 or 4^ fathoms about H miles
distant, steer at any convenient distance round the high S. E. extreme of Montanha,
which has .3 fathoms near it, deepening gradually to the eastward towards Potoe Island.
When abreast the point of Montanha, the Water Islands are perceived on with each
other, near the western extreme of a bay with a sandy beach : as there is not niore
than 2f fathoms in this bay, it should be avoided, by steering a course to pass about
half or three-quarters of a mile to the southward of the Water Islands, in 4^ flithoms
water, then haul round the western island, preserving the same depth and distance.
Do not exceed the distance of one mile to the westward of this island, for beyond that
the water shoals fast to 3 fathoms, towards the Sam-ciiow shore. From the Water
Islands steer N. N. W. or N. by W. ^ W., giving a berth of a quarter of a mile to the
other island lying to the northward of them. This course will carry you to the west
point of Montanha, in 5 fathoms water, oft' which you may anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms,
and be sheltered, if you intend waiting only the termination of a gale.
From Montanha West Point, the water shoals gradually towards Ma-cheung-cock,
the island on the west side the channel, adjoining to the N. E. end of Sam-chow ;
there is generally a line of fishing stakes extending westward from the point, with pas-
sages among them for vessels. Mong-chow, or Ballast Island, in lat. 22° 8^^' N., bears
from the west point of Montanha N. N.W., distant 2^ miles, and between them there
are two openings to the eastward, one leading to the Typa, the other to Macao, both
so shoal as only to afibrd a passage for boats. About 1| miles N. Westward of the
west point of Montaniia, and fronting the opening through the Typa, there is a rock
about the size of a small boat, never entirely covered. The channel for ships is directly
from the West Point to this rock, passing it on the west side about a cable's length ;
for W. i S. from it about a mile there is another rock, and shoal banks bound the
channel on both sides. From West Point to Mong-chow the water is shoal, the edge
of the bank leaving only a narrow passage on the east side the easternmost rock, with
3^ fathoms at low water. Pak-ting, a small island with a sharp hummock on its N.E.
end, lies on the western bank, distant 3 miles W. 4 N. from Mong-chow: the bank is
composed of mud, having 1^ fathoms water on it, the edge of which extends 1^ miles
off" Pak-ting towards Mong-chow, and commencing at the western rock, stretches to
the N. N. W. the whole length of the channel, contracting it to about the breadth of
1 or 11 miles.
If you intend to proceed farther up the Broadway than the west point of Montanha,
steer from that point N. N.VV. through among the fishing stakes near it, towards the
easternmost rock that fronts the opening through the Typa; the soundings will be 5^
or 5 fathoms, and the rock may be passed within a cable's length on the west side, for
'at the distance of half a mile on either side the water is shoal. From it steer
N. N.W. 1 W. li miles, and you will then be abreast the ruined towers on Mong-chow,
in 4i or 5 fathoms water, and may perceive a church, with the Bar-Fort of Macao,
through the gap between that island and the Green Hill that is separated from its
north part at high water. This is a safe and convenient anchorage, about 5^ miles to
CANTON RIVER. — THE BROADWAY. 375
the westward of Macao, and the boats are kept in sight when passing to or from that
place. Fresh water may be got in a small bay to the northward, under tlie Table
Mountain, having a remarkable stone on its summit, called Kehan-shee-ak, which is
895 feet high. Here the tide rises 7 or 8 feet at full and change of moon ; high water Tides,
at 10| hours ; the neap tides are very irregular, there being then only one flood and one
ebb, of any considerable strength, during the 24 hours.
The channel for ships, between Mong-chow and the Bluff Point to the northward,
becomes narrow. If to proceed higher up than that island, the course is N. N-W. ^ W.,'
which will carry you about a mile above Bluff Point, in 5 to4M'athoms, and this point
ought to be passed within half a mile: if drawing more than 10 feet, wait here for the
last of the flood, to carry you past the small island Tang-lung-chow, lying a little to
the northward, ofl" which there are only 4^ fathoms at high water. From Bluff Point,
the course is N. N.W. f W. to pass about half a mile to the westward of Tang-lung-
chow ; and you should not go much farther West, nor so near the island as to shut in
the North Hillock of Mong-chow with Bluft' Point. When abreast the island, steer
N.W. ^ W., or directly for the entrance of the river, keeping about half a mile off
Ama-cock Point, which forms the east side the entrance; it has a pagoda on it, and is
well covered with trees. Here, the depth begins to increase, and in steering to pass
Motow Fort, about a quarter of a mile off it, there are 8 or ,0 fathoms. About 4 or 5
miles above this fort, the Broadway River separates into two branches : the eastern-
most, called Hong-shan River, communicates with Canton, and by it the trade is mostly
carried on between this city and Macao. The wide opening to the eastward of Ama-
cock Point, called the Flats, leads to Macao ; there is only a passage for boats through
it, and the Ladrones, when refractory, have generally a fleet stationed about this part
of the Broadway, to intercept boats going to or from Macao.
In Commodore Sir J. J. Gordon Bremer's despatch, relative to the operations of the Passage of the
fleet under his command in March, 1841, an account is given of the Honourable Com- ^^"^'i^ ,.
J . 1 1VT • 1 ■ /■ 1 I 1 1 TT. . /. through the
pany s steam-vessel Nemesis havmg torced a passage through the Broadway from Broadway.
Macao to Whampoa. The following extracts have been selected to point out her track.
" At 3 A.M. on the 13th, the Nemesis, with the boats of the Samarang in tow, weighed
from Macao Roads, and proceeded over the flats between Twee-lien-shan and Toi-
koke-tou Islands to the Broadway River. At 8 a.m. they came in sight of Macao Fort.
On reaching Point Ho-ock-tow the river is divided into two channels ; that to the right
takes a sudden sharp turn and becomes very contracted in its breadth ; heie they dis-
covered Tai-yat-kok, a field battery (recently constructed) of 14 guns, very strongly
posted on a rising ground on the left bank of the river (surrounded by overflowed
paddy fields), which enfiladed the whole line of the reach leading up to it. On enter-
ing the reach in which they were, they observed on the right bank of the river
a new battery, scarcely finished, with 10 embrasures, but without guns, and Hoc-
kang Fort close to it, well built of granite, surrounded by a wet ditch, and mounting
14 guns and 6 gingalls. Abreast of these (which they flanked) the river was strongly
staked across."
Mr. Hall (commanding the Nemesis) having dexterously managed to get his vessel
through the centre passage of the stakes, whicli was just wide enough to admit of her
passing, they arrived at 4 p.m. off the large provincial town of Hiang-shan. " The
dense population tiiickly crowded the banks, boats, junks, house-tops, the large Pagoda,
and surrounding hills ; both sides of the river were j)acked with trading craft of the
country in the closest possible order, the centre of the river, which is very narrow,
having merely sufficient space to allow the steamer's paddle-boxes to pass clear of the
376
CANTON RIVER. — THE FRESHES.
Tides.
junks moored to its banks. At G p.m. the steamer passed on into a narrow shallow
channel, scarcely more than the breadth of a canal, where she anchored head and
stern for the night. At day-light, on the morning of the 14th, they weighed and pro-
ceeded up the river in the steamer's draft of water, and not broader than her own
length, grounding occasionally on both sides; at 7h. 50m. arrived at the large village
of Hong-how, with a fort of the same name at the upper part, which flanked a strong
and broad line of stakes 20 feet wide, completely across the river, tilled up in the centre
by large sunken junks laden with stones." After the Nemesis had made good her pas-
sage through the stakes, which was effected after 4 hours' incessant labour, they arrived
at 4 P.M. off a military station, where the steamer anchored for the night.
At day-light on the 15th, the Nemesis continued her course upwards, and at 7h. ."JOm.
arrived off the large village of Zamchow. On moving up to Tegnell, a large town on
the left bank of the river, three forts were passed, all dismantled and abandoned, and
on proceeding up to Whampoa three more dismantled forts were observed. At 4 p.m.
the Nemesis came to in that anchorage, having in conjunction with the boats destroyed
5 forts, one battery, two military stations, and nine war junks.*
If the wind does not admit sailing directly into the entrance of the Broadway, there
is room for short tacks between the Water Islands and the rocky islets off Sam-chow,
taking care of the latter shore, which is shoal. Farther in, the channel contracts a
little, but the tides are of sufficient strength to back and fill past the rocks that lie
opposite the Typa, or where the channel may seem rather narrow for working.
The direction of the flood outside is governed principally by the winds : with
strong easterly winds, it comes from E. S. E. ; and when S. Westerly winds prevail,
from South. The ebb runs generally to the S.W. Inside, the tides take the direction
of the channel.
Freslies and
I'urrents.
THE CANTON RIVER FRESHES set almost constantly from the south end
of Montanha, along the shores of the islands to the westward, at the rate of 1 to 2 miles
an hour, particularly with strong easterly winds. When at times there seems to be on
the surface a flood tide setting to the eastward, or into the entrance of the river, the
freshes underneath continue to run outward, by which ships are rendered ungovern-
able, even in fresh breezes. Many ships from this cause, after getting near Montanha,
or betwixt it and Potoe, have been drifted along the islands nearly to St. John, whilst
making every endeavour, with moderate breezes, to keep their heads to the eastward.
Ships, therefore, steering in for the channel betwixt Potoe and Montanha, should never
borrow near Sam-chow, or the other islands to the westward, unless it is blowing a
strong gale at S.W. ; for if they get into shoal water near the islands, when the winds
are light, they must expect to have the stream of the eddy current, and be drifted to the
westward.
These freshes, or westerly currents, abate at times, and then weak tides set to the
eastward ; but as these are not of long duration, ships should keep on the east side the
channel in deep water towards the Ladrone and Potoe, and anchor instantly, if the
current begin to drift them to the westward.
To approach In the Strength of the South-west Monsoon, ships should endeavour, if the wind be
torte"easu^" Steady betwixt'S. E. and S.W., to make the Grand Ladrone bearing nearly North, and
ward.
* From so general an account it is impossible to ascertain the steam- vessel's track with any thing like accu-
racy, but it was thought desirable to give as many particulars as could be obtained respecting a passage
hitherto so little known.— Ed.
CANTON RIVER, — OUTER ISLANDS. 377
never fall in with the islands to the westward ; this is the more necessary after the middle
of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail several days together, as they are,
more or less, at all seasons. Ships which fall to leeward about St. John, in September
or October, generally make a tedious passage to Macao ; for the pilots carry them close
along the islands, where the current or freshes setting to the westward oblige them to
remain at anchor great part of the time. But as these freshes prevail only in shoal
water, near the islands, ships which stretch well out into the open sea, and take every
advantage of the favourable shifts of wind, will generally get more speedily to the east-
ward than those which continue to work close in with the islands.
THE GRAND LADRONE, called by the Chinese TY-MAN-SHAN, is in lat. Grand
21° 57' N., Ion. 113° 44" E., or 12 miles East of Macao, and 29 miles East of Canton
Factories by means of many chronometers.* It is a steep, bold island, the N.W. part
forming a round mount or dome, which, being more elevated than the remainder, may be
seen 9 leagues from the deck, and 14 leagues from the mast-head, and makes it easily
known ; for none of the other islands have a similar appearance, although most of them
are high : on the S.W. part there is a small bay, where the fishing boats take shelter in
the N. E. monsoon. The island is about 2 miles in diameter, with a rocky aspect close to
the sea ; but it is safe to approach, the depths near it being generally 16 or 17 fathoms.
Being the outermost island, directly fronting Canton River, it is used as a standard
position by ships sailing to or from that river; and with the Little Ladrone adjoining,
and Potoe to the N. Westward, bounds the east side of the great channel, leading to
the river and Macao Road.
THE LITTLE LADRONE, or POCKING-HAN of the Chinese, is separated Li«ie_^^
from the west side of the Grand Ladrone by a narrow passage, having 16 or 17 fathoms
water in it, but too confined for a ship unless in a case of necessity. This island is of
convex sloping form, not so much elevated as the former. Near the west side of it the
depths are 11 and 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 6 fathoms about half a mile to soundings
the southward of Potoe ; there are 14 fathoms near its outer point, and near the south
and S. E. sides of the Grand Ladrone, 17 to 18 fathoms.
Close to the N. E. part of the Little Ladrone lies a small rocky islet ; and N. by W.
from this islet about half a mile there is a Black Rock, covered at high tide with 10
fathoms close around : if, therefore, a ship pass this way at high water when the rock
is covered, she must keep about mid-channel between the Little Ladrone and Tong-
hou Island, which is 2^ miles more to the northward. This is the only danger near
the Little Ladrone, excepting a high rock close to the shore on its N.W. side, having
near it 9 and 10 fathoms water.
About 10 leagues South from the Grand Ladrone, the depths increase to 27 or 28
fathoms; about 20 leagues from it, to 42 and 44 fathoms; and soundings extend on
the same meridian to about lat. 20° N.; from hence they continue westward on a
parallel to Hainan Head ; but converge towards the land, with deeper water to the
eastward of the meridian of the Ladrone. Ships fiilling in with the land in thick
weather may easily distinjjuish whether the land seen is that of the islands to the east- jY,°g2°fhe
ward or to the westward of the Grand Ladrone; for the Asses Ears and Lenia Islands ia„,i.
have soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms very close on them on the outside ; whereas, the
islands betwixt the Grand Ladrone and St. John have only 10 and 11 fathoms at a
• Captain Ross, in his survey, makes it 11 miles East of Macao, and 27' 13" East of the Factory at Canton,
or in Ion. 113° 43' E.
VOL. n. 3 C
378
CANTON RIVER, — OUTER ISLANDS.
considerable distance outside. These are also large and of regular appearance, resem-
bling a coast more than islands; but those to the eastward, excepting the Great Lema,
which is long and of an undulating form, are detached, high, and uneven.
A ship falling in with the islands to the eastward, if the weather is not very thick,
should push through some of the channels amongst them towards the river ; tliese are
in general safe, and may be navigated without a pilot ; for by losing time outside, or
close to the islands, she may be baffled by light winds and calms, which are frequently
the harbingers of a Ty-foong.
Remarks on
making tlie
coast.
potoe Island. POTOE, or PASSAGE ISLAND, in lat. 22° 2' N., bearing N.W. by N. from the
N.W. end of the Little Ladrone4^ miles, is a flat sloping rock, visible about 3 leagues
from the deck, with 6 or 6^ fathoms near it all round ; it ought not to be approached
too close, as the eddies occasioned by the freshes may render a ship ungovernable, and
probably drift her towards it, or towards Woong-boo, the adjacent island. The chan-
nel betwixt it and the S. E. point of Montanha is about 5 miles wide, and safe ;
the depth is 6 or 6j fathoms in mid-channel, or rather nearest to Potoe, which is the
best track, decreasing over a bottom of soft ooze to 5^ or 5 fathoms, in steering
N. N. Eastward for Macao Road : there are 3j fathoms close to the Point of Mon-
tanha.
During the strength of the South-west Monsoon, ships endeavour to fall in with the
Grand Ladrone bearing about North or N. by E., and pass into the river by the
western channel, between Potoe and Montanha ; but late in the season when the
winds incline easterly, or at any other time when they are expected to come from the
northward or eastward, it is prudent to make the Great Lema, and to proceed in by
that channel. When Ty-foongs happen on the coast, they generally commence in a
moderate gale from the northward, which is a leading wind for passing through the
Lema Channel into the river; and as the wind commonly veers to the eastward be-
fore it blows very severely, a ship with the first of the gale may get well up the river
above Lintin, where these storms blow with less violence than outside among the islands.
As the approach to the Canton River is probably more safe than that of any other
large river on the globe, there being no sand-banks at the entrance, and the channels
amongst the islands outside being mostly all free from hidden danger, a stranger
should not hesitate to push through the nearest convenient channel without a pilot,
if the weather is tolerably clear ; but the tides must be attended to, as they set in
different directions amongst the islands to the S. Eastward of the river, according to
the prevailing winds ; a strong easterly wind generally producing a westerly current or
tide, which abates in strength when the ebb should be setting to S. Eastward. If an
outside pilot can be obtained at a moderate rate (12 or 15 dollars), he may be useful,
to run the ship into some cove or place of shelter, in case a storm should approach, or
if she is in a disabled state. A ship ought not to anchor in Macao Road, when
there is an appearance of stormy weather, but she should run well up the river above
Lintin.
About 1^ miles to the E. N. E. of Potoe lies an island, 1^ miles long, stretching
North and South, with a peaked hill on its northern part; it is named Woong-
Moo, or WooNG-BOO ; nearly half a mile off the west side of it there are some
The approach
to Canton
Uiver.
Woong-nioo
Island and
Dry Rocks.
Leung-neeb.
rocks above water. Eastward of Woong-moo \^ miles is an island named Leung-
neeb,* with a round islet between its south end and the western point of Tong-hou
Island ; the depth between Potoe and the dry rocks, or between Woong-boo and
Dragon's Nose.
CANTON RIVER.— OUTER ISLANDS. 379
Leung-neeb, is not known : about half a mile N.W. from the north end of Leung-neeb
lie two rocks covered at spring tides, wliich in blowing weather shew breakers; Sunken Rocks.
therefore, in passing the north end of this island, keep at least three-quarters of a mile
distant.
TY-LO-CHOW, bearing from the north end of Leung-neeb N. ^° E., distant 2f Ty-io-cUow.
miles, is high near the western part, sloping a little to the eastward, and it is the
southern one of the range of small islands on the east side of Macao Road ; it is 5^
miles from Cow-ow, the south point of Typa, 7-| miles from Cabaretta Point, and
nearly 10 miles from Macao Town; between this island and Leung-neeb there is a
good channel to enter the road from S. E., remembering the rocks off the northern
point of the latter, the depth from one to the other being 7 and 7^ fathoms, decreasing
to 4^ fathoms in the road. Ty-lock, about half a mile northward of Ty-lo-chow, is Ty-iock.
a small rocky island, having on its summit a large rock.
SAM-COCK ISLAND, distant one mile in a N. N. E. direction from Ty-lock, sam.eockami
is the largest of the range ; it is of moderate height, rugged in appearance, and in the ^>'°'^''-
form of a pyramid : between this island and Ty-lock there is a small islet, named Sy-
LOCK, and two rocks above water; the channels between these are so narrow, that a
ship should not attempt them, on account of strong eddies, which render ships fre-
quently ungovernable.
On the northern part of Sam-cock there is a small bay or cove for boats, and this channel be-
island affords fresh water : about a quarter of a mile off the west point there are c"|fk"nd""
3^ fathoms, and the same distance off its eastern point there are only 3 fathoms water; chung-chow.
therefore, in passing between Sam-cock Island and Chung-chow to the northward, keep
in mid-channel, or nearest to the latter, in 6 or 7 fathoms water.
CHUNG-CHOW, distant about 1^ miles to the N.N.E. of Sam-cock, is the north- chunp-chow.
em island of the range, from which Cabaretta Point is distant 8 miles W. ^ S., Macao
Town W. f N., distant about 10 miles ; the outermost of the Nine Islands, near 7 miles
distant, bears N.W. ^ W., Lintin Point N. by E. i E. 14^ miles ; it is in lat. 22° 10' N.,
Ion. 1 13° 44' E. ; the depth near Chung-Chow is 7 fathoms to the eastward, and 5 and
6 to the northward and westward.
Along the western side this range of islands the depth is 5 or 5^ fathoms, and on the
eastern side it is 7 fathoms ; the ebb runs strong from the northward along the west
side of them, and the tlood in eddies from S. Eastward.
When Chung-chow is bearing W. N.W. , Ty-lock W.S.W., summit of Ty-lo-chow
S.W. by W., the centre of Sam-cock nearly West, and the small island which is off the
N.W. end of Lueng-suitow bearing N. N. E. i E., there is a small and dangerous
Needle Rock, with 4 feet water on it at low spring tide, and 10 fathoms close around ; Dangerous
it is distant from the nearest shores as follows :— from Chung-chow 2:f miles ; from a Sunken Rock,
small island to the southward of it 1^ miles; from the south part of Lueng-suitow
If miles, and from the S.W. point of Laff-Saramee 2 miles : when the island 3 miles
S. E. by S. of Chung-chow, named Chuck-tu-aan, and the small island off the west
side Lueng-suitow, are on the same bearing, about A.N. E. ^ E. and S. S.W. ^ W., the
rock will be between the two, but nearest to the former; therefore, if a ship have
occasion to enter the road by this channel, and keep about three-quarters of a mile off
Laff-Sammee and the south side of Lueng-suitow, she will pass in mid-channel, and
have 10 or 12 fathoms water, decreasing to 7 fathoms as she nears Chung-chow.
3 c 2
380
CANTON RIVER. — OUTER ISLANDS.
Lueng-suitow. LUENG-SUITOW, about 2^ miles to the S.W. of the south point of Lantoa, is
hio'h, and about the north point of it there is a peaked hill ; this island is ]^ miles
long-, and has not any hidden dangers near its northern side ; the depths between
it and the south point of Lantoa are irregular, owing to the strong eddies generally
prevailing hereabout. There are 7 fathoms near the point of Lantoa, 18 or 20 in
mid-channel, and 28 or 30 close over to Lueng-Suitow ; there is a cove for boats on
the north side the island, and a short distance to the westward of its westernmost
point there is a round and high islet, with a large rock on its summit; round this islet
to the northward and westward the depth is 15 fathoms. From it, Macao town bears
W. i N., distant i;3| miles; the Nine Islands W. by N. f N., distant nearly 10 miles ;
south point of Lantoa E. by N. |^ N., distant 3 miles; and Lintin North, distant
13 miles : the south point of Lintin South Sand is on the same bearing, therefore
you will be clear of it, if you keep this islet S. by E. until Lintin Peak bear N. by E.
After coming through the Lantoa Passage, from this island the course into Macao
Road is West, and if bound up the river your course will be N.N.W. until you bring
Lintin Peak to bear N. by E., then steer for the west point of Lintin. In a dark
night, steer N. N.W. or N.W. by N. from the middle of the Lantoa Passageunt.il you
have shoaled your depth to 6 fathoms, then steer North ; on this latter course, if you
deepen above 7 fathoms, keep a little westerly until you arrive near or above Lintin,
where you may anchor. By not deepening above 7 fathoms, you will not be too near
Lintin South Sand, there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. The ebb tide, from the
west part of Lintin to the eastward, sets South ; but over on the western shore it sets
to S. £.
Lintin South
Sand.
Sailing
Directions.
Gow- tow-
chow.
LafiF-Sammee.
Chi-chow
Islands.
GOW-TOW-CHOW, or BULLOCK'S HEAD ISLAND, next to the S. E. of
Lueng-Suitow, is separated from it by a narrow channel ; this island is small but high,
and on the south side it forms a bay with Lueng-Suitow and Laft-Sammee. Although
the channel is narrow, H.M.S. Doris ran through, and found shoal water near Lueng-
Suitow; the depths near the north side the island are 15, 16, and 17 fathoms, rather
irregular ; but to the southward, in the bay, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms.
To the southward of Gow-tow-chow, and separated by a narrow channel, lies Laff-
Sammee, which is larger than either Lueng-Suitow or Gow-tow-chow, and which
with them forms the south-western boundary of the Lantoa Passage ; it is inhabited on
the S. Western side, where fresh water is to be had in a small bay : this island from
some views forms a peak, which is in lat. 22° 8' 30" N., Ion. 1 13° 48' 40" E. The depth
on the north side in the Lantao Passage is very irregular, from 17 to 25 fathoms in
overfalls, about a quarter of a mile off, and on the south side 10 and 11 fathoms ; at a
short distance to the eastward of its south point there is a rocky islet, on which the
fishermen have huts, and a winch for heaving up their nets.
CHT-CHOW, largest island, the north point, bearing S.E. by S., distant nearly 10
miles from the south point of Lantoa, forms the south side of the eastern entrance of
Lantoa Passage. This island is high, of round appearance, inhabited on the west side,
and separated by a narrow channel from the small Chi-chow Island, which is lower, and
to the westward of the former; there is a safe channel of 1^ miles between the west
point of the small Chi-chow and the rocky islet that lies off the eastern side of Laft'-
Sammee; in this channel the depth is 9 and 10 fathoms, and would be adopted by a
ship bound up the river, when she enters the islands from S. E. between Chook-chow
and Ichow,
CANTON RIVER. — LANTOA PASSAGE. 381
ACHOW,* southern island, bearing S.E. |E., distant nearly 4 miles from the Achow
south point of Lantoa, forms the nortii side of the eastern entrance of Lantoa Passage, i*''^''*-
The south point of Achow is high, and rises very steep, having 7 fathoms water close
to ; the depths between it and Chi-chow are 11 or 12 fathoms in mid-channel, 13 nearly
over to Chi-chow, deepening very suddenly to 25 or 30 fathoms into a hole, or swatch,
close to the point of Chi-chow. On the north side of Achow fresh water is to be
procured at a little sandy beach. A short distance to the northward of Achow, about A^h"!^"!.!
E.S.E. 3^ miles from the south point of Lantoa, there is another island, also named
Achow ; it extends East and West about a mile, and is very narrow in the middle :
from the west side of this island a sand spit extends nearly West upwards of 1|; miles,
and on the west point of this spit tliere are 2f fatlioras at low water, decreasing very
quick to 2 and l^ fathoms towards the island, off which it extends. When aground on
this bank, a small islet, in a bay on Lantoa, bore N. 63° E., touching the western point
of the bay in which it is situated ; south point of Lantoa N. 06^ W., distant about
2 miles. There is a rocky islet and two rocks above water, between the two Achow
Islands, nearest to the S.W. point of the northern one, but they are not in the way of
ships passing; there is also a high rocky islet lying nearly a mile to the eastward of
the Southern Achow, which may be passed at half a mile to the southward : but the
ground is foul between it and Achow, in 7 fathoms water, and by ships entering the
Lantoa Passage must be left to the northward.
THE LANTOA PASSAGE is formed by Lantoa Island to the N. E., and the Lantoa
Lueng-Suitow group to the S.W. ; the eastern entrance, formed between the islands Chi- ^^^^'
chow to the southward, and Achow to the northward, is often adopted by ships arriv-
ing during the INorth-east Monsoon. From about one mile ofl' Pootoy Island in the
Lema Channel, a sliip's course towards Lantoa Passage is nearly West 20 miles ; in
this run she will pass to the northward of Lin-tingf Island and to the southward of
Lamma, decreasing the depth of water from 17 fathoms oft' Pootoy, to 12 and 13 after
passing Lin-ting a short way; then to 7 or 8 as she approaches the Lantoa Passage;
and when in the entrance she will have 12 fathoms in mid-channel, but by keeping
nearest to Achow will have 7 or 8 fathoms. In the night it will be proper not to come
nearer Lin-ting than H miles wlien passing, as there are two snut// rocks above water,
the outer one bearing E. N. E. from the north end of Lin-ting, distant three-fjuarters
of a mile, the other lies S. by W. from this about one-third of a mile; with depths near
them of 13 fathoms.
Coming from eastward, Chi-chow has a remarkable appearance, and is a good guide;
it appears like a high, round, detached island, with distant rugged land to the westward
of it, which is Laff'-Sammee and Lueng-Suitow. Having entered Lantoa Passage
from eastward, the course through is IN.W. by W., and the depth will be variable, not
under 8 or 9 fathoms, or above 2j fathoms ; this inequality may be owing to the ebb
tide running in strong eddies, particularly in .lulyor August, wiien its velocity is some-
times 4^ knots per hour on spring tides. Willi a light breeze, at times, it is very diffi-
cult to manage a ship hereabout ; on some occasions two or three boats, assisted by the
sails, have been baffled in their attempts to tow a ship's head round.
The generality of pilots speak of a danger said to be in this passage, but few of them channel to the
can point out where it is. " I have passed over most part of the ground," says Captain ":i"J,*o"'."^',3''„i
Ross, " and know of no danger existing in tlie channel, l)ut the spit of sand that runs
Called Socko-chow by some navigators. f Called also Ling-ting.
382 CANTON RIVER. — LANTOA PASSAGE.
off the west side of the northern Achow Island." I have been twice aground on this
sand : if it is necessary to turn through the passage, when standing to the northward
do not decrease your depth under 7 fathoms, in a hirge ship, nor pass the line of bear-
ina' between the south points of Lantoa and the southern Achow Island. There is a
good channel, one mile wide, between the northern Achow Island and Lantoa shore,
which may be adopted by a ship when blowing fresh from North ; in this case, instead
of passing nearest to Lin-ting when coming from eastward, you should pass nearest to
the south point of Lamma in 12 fathoms, then to the south point of Chung-chow in
8 fathoms; also pass another high island that is to the westward of Chung-chow in
7 fathoms, afterwards between Lantoa shore and the northern Achow Island, carrying
7 fathoms water. In this run, after passing the island that is a short distance to the
westward of Chung-chow, you will perceive a small rocky islet in a bay, on the
northern shore ; you may stand through the channel steering West, until the islet is
shut in behind the western point of the bay in which it is situated, when you may
keep towards the south point of Lantoa, and have4|^ fathoms, muddy ground, between
the point of the sandy spit and Lantoa shore. It is high water on full and change of
moon at 10 hours, off the south point of Lantoa.
Lantoa Fsiand. LANTOA, or TY-HO, cxtcnds in a N. E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction 15
miles, and its greatest breadth is about 6\ miles ; the south or south-west point
is in lat. 35° 12' N., Ion, 113° 50' E., the north-east point in lat. 22° 21' N., Ion.
114° 2' 22" E. The only fortification perceived on the island was a small fort on a
hill a little way to the eastward of the south point. On the western side, l^j; miles
from the south point near the shore, there is a peaked hill, which at high water is in-
sulated ; from this hill to the point there is a mud flat, extending about a third of a
mile from the shore, with only two fathoms water ; therefore, in passing this part do not
decrease the depth under 7 fathoms, as you will shoal fast from 17 to 7 fathoms near the
edge of the flat. About a mile to the N. N.W. of the peaked hill, and three-quarters
of a mile off the nearest shore, there is a rock above ivater, having near it 15 fathoms :
between this rock and the shore there are 7 fathoms, decreasing very quickly towards
the latter; from the rock Linten Peak bears N. i W., distant about \0^ miles, and
Macao W. | S., distant 15f miles. From the rock N. E. by N. 1^ miles there
is a bluff point, and to the eastward of the latter a bay, in which is the village
Tv-HO, where is a creek or rivulet into which a boat may go at high water. To the
southward of Ty-ho village there are two bays, both of which are shoal, but fresh
water may be procured in them. Between the Dry Rock and the Bluff Point, in 7
fathoms water. Captain Ross rode out a severe Ty-foong, July 28th, 1811, with yards
and top-masts struck, and did not experience any swell, nor had occasion to veer out
more than two-thirds of a cable, whilst H.M.S. Clorinde, in Macao Road, expe-
rienced very rough riding: tliis Ty-foong did much damage to the quay round the
Praya Grande, and otherwise much injured Macao : although very severe, it must have
been confined to a small space, as a ship arrived the day after it broke up, and had not
experienced any bad weather.
On the north side Lantoa there are two projecting points ; from the western one
Lintin Peak bears N.W. f N., and the island Saw-chow N. ^ W., distarit 2| miles ; be-
tween the two points, which are three-quarters of a mile separated, there is a bay and the
village Saw-lowang ; and directly fronting the eastern point of the bay lies a small
island, about a quarter of a mile distant, having a rock at the water's edge, a little way
to the northward of it. Between this island and Saw-chow, distant 2 miles N. N.W.,
CANTON RIVER.— LAMMA CHANNELS. 383
the depth is too small for a large ship at low tide ; towards Saw-chow is the deepest
water, 3| and 4 fathoms, shoaling near the Lantoa shore to 3 and 2| fathoms, on a
soft mud bottom. Eastward of the small island off Saw-lowang Bay another deep bay
is formed by an island extending North and South If miles ; in this bay is situated
Toong-choong village, the place where the Portuguese ships attacked the piratical
fleet in 1809. The N. E. point of the island has a remarkable rocky apjiearance, and
is frequented by a company of stone-cutters, who cut the granite rocks into slabs for
building ; Chee-lap-cock is the name of its north-east point. The south point of this
island is so near to the Lantoa shore, that in passing you cannot distinguisii it to be an
island ; in Toong-choong Bay the water is shoal, being only 2 and 2^ fathoms. Tlie
northern shore of Lantoa from Toong-choong Bay is not inhabited, and there is little
water near the island aforementioned.
About 1^ miles E. N. E. of Chee-lap-cock Point lies a small green island, and three-
quarters of a mile farther E. N. E. another small island, wliich are the Brothers of Mr.
Dalrymple, or Motoe of the Chinese : there is a rock above water, about half a mile
southward of the eastern island, and about a mile off the Lantoa shore. The depths
near the Brothers are 7 and 8 fathoms, shoaling from the north one towards the
northern shore into 4 or 5 fathoms, making the channel narrow hereabouts : there is a
small reef round the western side of the West Brother. According to Captain H . Smith,
of H. M.S. Druid, there is a good channel with 8 or 10 fathoms water between the
eastern Brother and the large rock to the southward of it ; the rock is high above water,
and bold on all sides. From the eastern Brother the N. E. point of Lantoa bears E.
by N. 4^ miles.
About half a mile N. E. of the north point of Lantoa lies Mah-wan Island, forming
a passage between it and Lantoa, and another to the northward between it and the
northern shore. The depth in them is from 20 to 25 fathoms, and in the northern
passage some rocks project oft' the north-east point of Mah-wan Island about one-third
of a mile. H. M. S. Doris went through between Mah-wan and Lantoa, which pas-
sage has dangerous eddies, and is very narrow. The passage between the north point
of Lantoa and the main is called the Cap-sing-moon passage.
THE LAMMA CHANNELS* are the passages on either side of the island of that Lamnm
name. The channel on the west side of Lamma Island was sounded at low water, '■'»"""''*>«"!•
and not less than 5 fathoms found, over an even bottom of soft mud ; it is prefer-
able to that on the east side of Lamma, the latter being deeper, and in some places
very narrow.
In coming from southward, the passage by the western channel, to the anchorage on
the north side Hong-kong, adopted by some of the Company's ships in 1829-30, is to
steer or work up on the west side of Lamma, and then between Cowee-chow and the
island oft' the N.W. extremity of Hong-kong. Ships ought never to pass to the west-
ward of Cowee-chow, on account of some dangerous sunken rocks on that side.
Having passed Cowee-chow, steer directly for the south point of Ciiung-yue, observing
not to bring the island off the N.W. end of Hong-kong to the southward of S. by E. | E.,
until close up with Chung-yue, or having the west end of Wan-ciiun-chow, whicii may
be approached very close, bearing E. by N.| N. With a working wind, ships may
stand up into the bay formed by Chung-yue, Wan-chuug-ciiow, and the main, taking
care not to bring the west end of Wan-chung-chow to tlie westward of S. by E. \> hen
* The Lamma Channels, Ly-ee-moon Anchorage, and Cap-sing-moon Passages, were surveyed by Captain
Blakely, of the Waterloo, in 1829, and are given in my Chart of Canton River and proximate chaimels.
384
CANTON BIVER. — LAMMA CHANNELS.
Tides.
Anchorages.
Cap-sing-moon
Passage.
Lantoa West
Peak.
close to the west end of this island, steer about S. E. or for the foot of the high ridge
on Hong-kong-, or a little to the southward of Ly-ee-raoon Point, both of which marks
may be readily seen. The lead is a good guide in working for this part of the chan-
nel, which is about I to 1-j miles wide. The shoal projecting ofl" the island at the
N.W. end of Hong-kong seems not to have less than 3| fathoms at low water spring
tides, the bottom soft mud. The tides about flong-kong are irregular, flowing and
ebbing without any apparent change of direction at the surface, and sometimes there
seems to be only one tide in 24 hours. There are many safe anchoring places, sheltered
in the North-east Monsoon; but fresh water is not easily got, except on Hong-kong.
THE CAP-SING-MOON* PASSAGE is formed between the north point of
Lantoa and the main, and is separated into two branches by Mah-wan Island. That
branch on the west side of Mah-wan Isle, being extremely narrow, and very dangerous,
ought never to be used by ships of any class; more particularly, as the passage north-
ward of that isle is wider, with good anchorage, a regular tide, and the advantage in
the North-east Monsoon of being to windward. Coming through Cap-sing-moon Pas-
sage from the westward, in proceeding to Ly-ee-moon anchorage, keep close to the
main land to avoid the reef off the N. E. part of Mah-wan, then keep close to the
western side and south end of Chung-yue, and steer directly for the west end of
Wan-chung-chow, observing, with a working wind, to follow the directions given
above.
The southern coast of Lantoa Island forms two large bays with shoal water in them ;
the larger and eastern one lies to the north-eastward of the northern Achow Island, and
has in it a small islet, and some rocks above water. The depth is 2 fathoms within the
rocks, and 4 and 5 fathoms in the entrance of the bay, where there appears to be good
anchorage : there is a considerable village in this bay. The western bay, which lies
N. N.W. of the northern Achow Island, is less capacious than the one just mentioned,
and has depths in it from 2 to 5 fathoms. Off the eastern entrance point of the
eastern bay, separated from it by a narrow channel, there is a high green island, which
bears from Lin-ting Island N. N.W. ^W., distant 5^ miles, and close on the west side
the island lie some rocks above water ; a small ship would find good anchorage by
running round to the westward of these rocks, and anchoring with them bearing about
S. by E., three-quarters of a mile distant, in 5 fathoms water; fresh water may be pro-
cured at the sandy beaches on Lantoa, to the northward. In the channel formed
between Lantoa and the high green island there are 7 fathoms water ; the ebb tide
here runs to the eastward.
About the centre of Lantoa the land is very high, making in peaks, the highest and
westernmost of which, about 3,000 feet high, is in lat. 22° 15' 15" N., Ion. 113° 54' 15" E.,
and bears from Macao E. by N., distant 21 miles.
Saw -chow
Island.
Toon-koo
Island.
Pauk-pyah
Rocks.
SAW-CHOW, or SAW-CHOO, in lat. 22° 21' N., bearing S. E. from the east side
of Lintin, distant 5 miles, is a small island one mile long and narrow, with a sharp hum-
mock on its north end : to the northward of Saw-chow, about one mile distant, there
is another island, higher, and more rocky in its appearance, named Toon-koo, or
TooN-Quoo : and to the S.W. of the south point of Toon-quoo, and N.W. of the north
point of Saw-chow, there are two rocks above water, about a mile distant from eacii
island: the western rock is very white, and named Pauk-pyah. The depths on the
* Cap-sing-moon Passage, or Throat Gates,
CANTON RIVER. — URMSTON BAY. 385
eastern side of Saw-chow and Toon-koo are from 5 to 7 fathoms, and immediately from
the south point of the latter to the north point of the former the depth is only 2^
fathoms at low water; to the westward of Toon-koo, the depth is (j fathoms, and near
the rocks there are 5 fatlioms : the channel between Pauk-pyah and the east side of
Lintin Spit, or South Sand, is 3 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing towards
the spit to 5 fathoms. If working to the northward between Lintin Spit and Pauk- Limin spU.
pyah Rock, do not stand so far West as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to bring the east
side of Lintin to bear North. With the Peak of Lintin bearing Aorth, and Saw-
chow Last, there are 2^ fathoms on the spit. With Saw-chow bearing E. N. E. and
Lintin Peak North, you will cross the spit 5 miles from Lintin, in 4f or 5 fathoms,
sand and mud.
URMSTON BAY, or TOON-KOO HARBOUR, lying near tlie entrance of unnswn
Canton River, and bounded by the Islands Toon-koo and Saw-chow to the West, and ^*^'
Castle Peak land to the East, is a safe anchorage, tolerably sheltered fi'om all winds.
The best anchorage is in about 8 or 9 fathoms, with tiie Peak of 7'oon-koo just o[)en
with the south end of Lintin, and nearer to the main island than to Toon-koo. Tiiis
safe bay or harbour was named Urmston Bay by the captains of the fleet who an-
chored there in August and September, 1823, at the recommendation of Sir James
Brabazon Urmston, President of the Company's Factory at Canton, during the dis-
cussion with the Chinese, relative to the affair of the Topaze frigate, in 1821-2, at
Lintin ; the anchorage was found secure, witii smootli water when it blew a gale from
eastward. Fresh water was also procured in abundance.
The proper channel into Urmston Bay, which is to the northward of Toon-koo, has
7 and 8 fathoms water; and the approach to it, in coming from southward, may be
either between Lintin South Sand and the islands of Saw-chow and Toon-koo ; or if
coming from the northward on the north side of Lintin, the channel to the southward
of Saw-chow, leading into Urmston Bay, has only from 3^ to 4j fathoms water, and
between Saw-chow and Toon-koo, the depth is only 2| fathoms, rendering that passage
unsafe for ships.
Having described the islands and channels to the eastward of Macao Road, it is
necessary to return to those in the offing.
THE HAE-PONG,* or KY-POONG ISLAND, has near its western extreme,
two high remarkable peaks, called the Asses Ears, which make it easily known ;
they rise from the same base almost perpendicularly from the sea, and sloping suddenly
down on the N. E. side, are united to a piece of moderately elevated land, wliich ter-
minates that part of the island. The Asses Ears are in lat. 21° o4' N., Ion. 1 14^ 1' E.,
bearing from the Grand Ladrone E. by S. 17 miles. Vung-gae, or Young-hoy (Mug-
wort Island), is an island of considerable size, separated from the west point of Hae-
pong by a small channel about a quarter of a mile wide ; and a range of islets projects Adjoining
from Yung-gae about 5 miles S. Westward ; the outermost of these, sometimes called '^'^'*-
Gap Rock, but Man-mee-chowi by the Chinese, has a small gap in it, and is the south-
westernmost islet on the coast, to the eastward of Canton River. Between ti)e south
end of Yung-gae and the Man-mee-chow group there is a passage of H miles width,
with 22 fathoms water ; but care is required to avoid a sunken rock about 1^ miles
* The east part of the island only is called Hae-pong, the Shoe's Side; the other part of the island is called
Pak-tseeni-mee, t/ie North Side.
■f i. e. Paps Islet.
VOL. II. 3 D
386
CANTON RIVER. — OUTER ISLANDS AND DANGERS.
N.W. ^ VV. from the south end of Yung-gae, by keeping nearest to the north islet of
the groiif) in passing the danger. In the passage betwixt this islet and the other nearest
to it, and which is about a quarter of a mile wide, there are 22 fathoms water. There
is also, between Man-mee-chow and the other islets of this group, an opening a mile
wide, safe to pass through with a steady wind, with from IG to 18 fathoms water ; the
Gunjavar passing through it in 1802 had 17 and 18 fathoms, mud.
KWEI-TOW-PAE, or TORTOISE HEAD, about three-quarters of a mile off
the east point of Hae-pong, is a white rocky islet, having other rocks between it and
the point, neither of which ought to be approached. Gae-une-chow, or the Moxa
Pill, is another islet, rather more than a mile to the northward of the north end
of Hae-pong : there is said to be a passage between it and the latter, which ought not
to be attempted unless from necessity; for there appear to exist some straggling rocks
on which the sea breaks at times, and the passage has not been surveyed. The follow-
ing danger requires the greatest care in ships passing through the channel between the
westernmost Lema Islands and these rocks.
Cambridge
Kock.
Position.
Tong-Iiou
Island,
and Cove.
THE CAMBRIDGE ROCK, on which the ship of this name struck, August
30th, 1820, in passing between Hae-pong and the Lema Islands, is a spiral rock with
only 17 feet water on it, deepening quick to 5, 6, 7, and 1 1 fathoms at a small distance ;
from 20 to 23 fathoms are the usual depths in the channel, between the rock and the
S.W. point of the Lema Islands, which is about 2f miles in breadth, and safe, by bor-
rowing towards the latter islands in jrassing through.
This rock is called by the Chinese fishermen Hoe-sing-pae, or Heart of the
Sea ; it was carefully examined in August, 1822, by the late Mr. Robarts, of the Com-
pany's factory. Canton, who found its summit only 1^ or 2 feet in diameter, with
2f fathoms water over it, and 4 or 5 fathoms on the other rocks by which it is sur-
rounded ; from whence the depths increa.se to 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, and on to 20 and 23
fathoms, in the fair channel between the rock and the Lema Islands.
This dangerous rock lies in lat. 21° 57' N., Ion. 114° 4^ E., and is on a transit line
between the S. Westernmost Lema Island, called Tae-tam-mee, and the rocky islet to
the northward of Hae-pong, called Gae-une-chow, the latter islet bearing from Cam-
bridge Rock W. S.W., and the former E. N. E. The small islet off the eastern point
of the Asses Ears, called Kwei-tow-pae, bears from it S. byE., the north point of
Hae-pong Island S.W. | W., and the west point of the Lema Island Sei-tam-mee
(called E-Chow in Captain Ross's chart) bears from the rock N. E.
The west end of Lantoa on with the west end of Hack-chow, the northernmost of
the Sam-moon Islands, is a transit or direct line with the rock ; therefore, in passing it,
keep the west point of Lantoa shut in with the end of Hack-chow ; and when you are
clear to the northward of the rock, the north point of Gae-une-chow will be in a transit
line with the north end of the islet Man-mee-chow, which is situated to the westward
of Yung-gae.
TONG-HOU, bearing N. N. E., distant about 2i miles from the Little Ladrone,
and North from the channel that separates the two Ladrones, is of moderate and un-
equal height, nearly two miles long N.W. and S. E. : on the N. E. part of this Island
there is a small cove, not readily distinguished if passing 2 or 3 miles from its entrance.
There is a sunken rock off the N.W. point of the cove, and when passing this part of
the island it will be avoided by keeping about three-quarters of a mile off shore.
the cove.
CANTON RIVER. — OUTER ISLANDS, 387
Close off the west point of Tong-hoii, and near tlie south point of Leiins-neeb Island,
tliere is a small round island, n)aking- the pas.sage on eacli side of it very narrow : the
depth about half a mile off the north side of Tong-hou is 7 or 8 fathoms.
The Boddam, after being- disabled during a Ty-foong, by the loss of her masts and
rudder, and having fixed temporary ones, was proceeding towards the river, when the
pilot perceiving another Ty-foong coming on, ran her into Tong-hou Cove. She drew
21^ feet water, and remained in perfect safety during a violent storm. The cove is
about 400 yards wide, witli 24 feet water in the entrance, 17 and 18 feet well inside,
at low water spring tides, the bottom all soft mud. Here a ship may lie with a kedge
anchor, or if she has none, be rnn into tiie mud without any risk; the tide rises 9 feet, Tides.
high water about G hours on full and change of moon : outside the tlood sets N.W.,
and the ebb S. E. pretty strong, but there is scarcely a drain in the cove. On each
side the land is steep from the w ater's edge, terminating in a valley at the head of the
cove, where is a sandy beach and plantain trees. Being the chief rendezvous of the
fishing boats in bad weather, or a place of refuge from the Ladrones, it is protected
by a fort on the N.\Y. point of the entrance. The rocks that lie along the IN.AV . side
of the cove have 12 feet, mud, within 3 or 4 yards of them. Good water may be got,
also beef, fish, poultry, and some fruit.
In steering for the entrance of this cove, a sunken rock which lies in about G To sail into
fathoms water, and H cables' length to the N. Eastward of the Eort Point, must have
a berth ; when the head of the cove bears S.W. by W., the rock will be left to the
W. Westward. Having brought the cove fairly open, bearing S.W. by W., steer for
the point on the S. E. side of the entrance, and pass it within half a cable's Jengtii ; for
the N.W. point, where the fort is built, is encompassed by rocks. About 2 or 3 cables'
lengths to the S. E. of the entrance to the cove there is also a reef of rocks, which
projects between 1 and 2 cables' lengths from the S. E. part of the island ; these are
mostly all in sight at high water, consequently are easily avoided, by steering from the
offing directly for the S.E. point of the entrance, as directed above.
From the entrance of Tong-hou Cove, I-chow and Sam-moon Islands are in one,
bearing E. 2° N. to E. 7° N., Lin-ting from E. 10° N. to E. 15° N., Lantoa Peak
N. 40°' E., Lintin Peak N. 12° E., Sam-cock N. 2° ^^\ to N. 8° W., Ty-lock-chow
N. 1 1° W. to N. 18° W., Macao N. 40° W., distant 5 or G leagues.
PAK-LEAK-LOW,* lying N. E. by N. of the Grand Ladrone about U miles, is Pak-icaUow.
of irregular shape, and on the southern side the hills are much covered by black
rocks ; on the east side of this island and fronting a small island named Hoa-ack-
chow, there is a cove where the fishing boats find shelter; on the northern side are
some small bays, in which fresh water may be procured ; and near the i\. E. point of
the island there is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen have a luit and a fishing stage
erected. On the N. E. point of the island stands a remarkable hill, which is visible
from Macao nearly on w ith Cabaretta Point. To the southward, between Pak-leak-
low and the Grand Ladrone, the depth is 15 fathoms, and the channel between it and
Tong-hou Island is nearly 4i mihs broad, with 10 fathoms between tlie two points,
shoaling to 7i as you proceed to the northward : Irom 7 fathoms about three-quarters
of a mile off \he north side the island, you will increase the depth towards the shore
to 12 or 13 fathoms, and near the small islet which is off the N. E. point you will
have 15 fathoms water to the northward and eastward.
* Called also Poo-toy.
3 D 2
388
CANTON RIVER. — OUTER ISLANDS.
Hoa-ock-
cliow.
Chook-cliow.
HOA-OCK-CHOW is a small island, lying about three-quarters of a mile from the
east side of Pak-leak-low, with 15 and IG fathoms water around.
About E. by N. from the centre of Pak-leak-low at the distance of H miles from
that island, lie the Great and Little Chook-chow. The larger island, which is
the eastern one, has a high rocky islet off its S. E. point, and a small bay on its north
side; there are 15 fathoms water between Hoa-ock-chow and the western island,
and 11 and 12 to the northward of the group ; from the N.E. point of Chook-chow,
Macao Town bears N.W. | W., distant 10^ miles, and on a clear day may be dis-
tinguished just clear of Cabaretta Point : from the east point of Chook-chow, the small
and southernmost islet or rock, Man-mee-chow, bears S. S. E. ^ E., distant 12^^ miles;
the ivhite rock that is in the channel between the Lemas and Hai-pong bears E. by
S. I S., distant 13 miles, and the peak of the western 1-chow Island N. E. by E. ^ E.,
distant 4A miles.
Two White
Itocks.
Sunken Rock.
I-fliow.
There areTVVO HIGH WHITE ROCKS lying about 4 miles North of little Chook-
chow, which are separated from each other half a mile ; the southern one is in lat.
22° 4' 40" N., from which the following true bearings and distances were obtained.
North-east point of Chook-chow S. 25^° E., distant 4^ miles ; peak or highest part of
Tailo-chow N. 73° W., distant nearly 6 miles ; north point of Leung-neeb Island
S. 80° W„ distant 6 miles ; southern part of eastern Chi-chow Island N. 63|;° E.,
distant 5^^ miles ; western I-chow Island S.
721° E.
distant 6 miles. About three-
quarters of a mile S. E. of the Southern Rock there is a small black rock, visible
only at low spring tides, having 10 fathoms water close around ; between the two high
rocks, but a little more westerly, there is a smaller one above water ; the depth near
these rocks on the east side is 9 or 10 fathoms, on the western and northern sides
8 fathoms. If coming from south-eastward between Chook-chow and I-chow, these
rocks may be avoided in the night, by keeping about a mile or two off Chook-chow ;
in fine weather you will see the rocks time enough to go clear of them. In the space
between Chook-chow and the rocks, the soundings are from 10 to 13 fathoms, deepest
near the former ; and between them and the south end of Laff-sammee, which is distant
2j miles to the northward, there are 8 and 9 fathoms water.
I-CHOW consists of two islands, the eastern or largest of which is in lat. 22° 3' N.,
Ion. 113° 54' 45" E., the smaller one being separated from its west side by a very
narrow channel, which you can only distinguish when to the southward of them ; the
depth on the southern side of these islands is 15 fathoms, and on the north and east
sides 12 and 13 fathoms, on the west side 8 or 9 fathoms. The peaked or highest part
of the eastern island bears N.W. i W., distant 10 miles from the white rock Gae-une-
chow, to the northward of Hae-pong. To the N. N. E., distant 1^ miles from the
northern part of the eastern I-chow, theve \s a small roclit/ islet, with 12 and 13 fathoms
water at a short distance from the rocks that are round it.
Sam-moon
Islands.
THE SAM-MOON ISLANDS, or Three Gates, are a group of three small islands
extending about 3j miles in a N.W. and S. E. direction, with narrow passages be-
tween them. Near the N.W. part of the north-westernmost, which is called Hack-
chow, there are two peaked islets, and on the northern side, between the eastern
and middle islands, there is another high rocky islet, with a bed of rocks lying to the
southward of it; the south end of the eastern island is the highest part of the group,
and forms a round mount. These islands are to the N.W. of the channel, formed
CANTON RIVER. — OUTER ISLANDS.
389
between the Lemas and Cambridge Rock, Hack-chow bearing about E. by N. ^ N.,
2j miles from I-chow.
You may pass to the southward of them, or to the northward between them and
Lin-ting Island, in 12 fathoms water.
LIN-TING,* or LING-TING ISLAND, in lat. 22° G' N., Ion. 114° 1' 30" E., Lin-ting
bearing W. | N., distant 15| miles from the north end of the Lema Island, is of '*'^"''-
rugged appearance, about IJ miles in diameter, rising to a peak about its centre ; the
dangers near this island, already mentioned, are two rocks above water, about three-
quarters of a mile to the eastward of the N. E. point ; they bear N. by E. and S. by
W. of each other a quarter of a mile, with 13 fathoms water near, but foul ground
between them.
The Needle Rocks are two in number, lying within a few yards of each other, Needle Rocks,
bearing S.W. ^ S. from the low rocky N.W. extreme of Lin-ting Island, and are so
sharp, that it is difficult to keep the lead fixed on their points ; at low spring tides,
there are about 6 feet water on them, at which time, with a swell, they may probably
shew either breakers or a rippling. H. M. S. Doris, having got on these rocks, and
reported their distance to be half a mile off the shore, induced Captain Ross to examine
them; from the outer rocks he found the southern extreme of the Lemas was just
shut in behind the S.W. point of Lin-ting, and the highest part of Lamma a very
little way over the low N.W. point ; the distance carefully measured was H tenths of
a mile, or 1^ cables' length from the low N.W. point of Lin-ting, and tliere are 10
fathoms water close around the rocks. A ship will avoid them when passing round
Lin-ting to the westward, by keeping the southern extreme of the Lemas a little open
of the S.W. of Lin-ting, and should not go within half a mile of the low rocky point
of the latter. From the north point of Lin-ting Island the south point of Lamma
Island bears N.E., distant 5| miles, and the east entrance of the Lantoa Passage W.
by N., distant about 8 miles : the depths close to the north point of Lin-ting are 18
or 19 fathoms, decreasing to 14 and 15 about a mile distant, and to the southward and
westward of the island, there are 10, 11, and 12 fathoms water on a soft bottom ; in the
night, when passing this island to the northward, it is advisable to keep I or 2 miles
off, on account of two rocks above water, the northern one of which bears from the
brow of Lin-ting north point E. by N. ^ N., and the southern one E. ^ S.
CHUNG-CHOW, distant 5 miles N. ^ W. from Lin-ting Island, and lying near chung-eiiow.
the S. E. part of Lantoa, is rather high on the north and south sides, and having a bay
on the east and west sides ; the island is low and narrow in the middle, and in this low
part there was formerly a considerable village, where a number of boat-builders resided,
to make or repair fishing boats : this village, with its inhabitants, was destroyed by
the pirates. Nearly half a mile East of the eastern point of the island, lies a small
rock, covered at times, the depth nearest to it 7 or 8 fathoms. In an easterly gale, a
small ship, by running round to the westward of Chung-chow, and anciioriug in the
western bay in 3:^ fathoms, will be well slieltered : there is no danger in passing the
south point of this island, there being 8 fathoms water close along the shore, and 5 and
6 near the western part. Fresh water may be procured at the western bay.
From Chung-chow to the northward, and lying at a short distance from the Lantoa J^'lf^^'j^"^^^"
shore, there are several small islands with some rocks above ivater ; the channels part of Lantoa.
between which and the Lantoa shore, are narrow, shoal, and unfit for ships.
* Signifying isolated, or standing alone.
390
CANTON RIVKR. — OUTER ISLANDS. — HONG-KONG,
Lamma
Island.
Sunken Roclcs.
Shelter and
safe anchorage.
Hong-Kong
Island, south-
ern side.
LAMMA ISLAND, lying ofl^ the S.W. side of Hong-Kong 5| miles N. E. of
Ling-ting Island, is of rocky appearance : the S.W. point is in lat. 22° 11' N., from
which point the land extends in a N. E. direction about 3^^ miles, and is higher here-
about than on any other part of the island. The middle of Lamma is narrowed by a
deep cove on its N. E. side, and a bay on its S.W. side, so that between them the land
is not more than a quarter of a mile broad. The north end of the island is in lat.
22° 15' N., and is not more than a mile distant from the S.W. part of Hong-Kong.
From the S.W. point, along the western shore, the land forms a bay to a low pro-
jecting point, about 2| miles to the N. N.VV., and from this last point about \^ miles
to the ]N. E. there is another point, oft' which lie some rocks under tvater half a mile
off" shore ; between these two points some houses and cultivation are seen in the little
bays. The point off" which the rocks are situated is of rocky appearance, rather bluff,
with houses in the bays to the southward of it and the low north point of the island,
extending to the north-eastward of it.
its being a small round hum-
The S. E. point of Lamma Island is remarkable from
mock, of bright green appearance on the top, and very rocky near the water's edge ;
this part of the island, as far as the N. E. point, is rocky close to the shore, with 13 or
14 fathoms water half a mile off".
On the N. E. side of Lamma Island, a little way to the westward of its N. E. point,
there is a cove, about 1^ miles deep and two-thirds of a mile wide, the bottom of which
is rocky ; but a ship may go into 6 or 7 fathoms water about three-quarters of a mile in,
and ride in security, being land-locked. There is an island nearly 2 miles from the
N. E. point, close to the western point of the cove, and the channel between this island
and Hong-Kong is a mile wide. You may anchor in a good situation between the
island and north point of Lamma, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, and be sheltered from all
winds ; the few inhabitants of this island were very civil, when Captain Ross visited
their habitations. On the north point of the island there is a hut and a winch erected
by the fishermen, who will dispose offish at times.
In the channel between Lamma Island and the southern side of Hong-Kong the
depth of water is from 14 to 19 fathoms in mid-channel, having no dangers in it but
what may be seen, namely, a rock and a small island above water, lying close to the
mouth of a cove on Hong-Kong.
On the western side of Lamma, between it and the islands lying off the east side of
Lantoa, the depth is generally 5 fathoms on a mud bottom, and when coming from be-
tween Lamma and Hong-Kong you will decrease very rapidly to 6-^ fathoms after
passing round the north point of the former.
HONG-KONG is a large island, lying between Lamma and the main ; the N.W.
point, in lat. 22° 17' N., bears from the north point of Lamma nearly North, distant 2
miles ; a short distance N.W. of the point there are two small islands, of green ap-
pearance, the westernmost of which is highest ; and If miles farther to the westward
of this last-mentioned island there is another high green island, named Cow-ee-chow,
forming between them the Cow-ee Passage, having in it 10 and 12 fathoms water.
The south point of Hong-Kong, which is the western entrance point of Tytam Bay,
is in lat. 22° 12' N., Ion. 114° 13' E. : between this point and the N.W. end of the
island there are several small bays, all of which are safe for small ships, but would
seldom be resorted to, when there are much better places of shelter near them. About
a mile E. N. E. of the N. E. point of Lamma, and within half a mile of the Hong-Kong
shore, there is a small but high island, of bright green appearance, between which.
CANTON RIVER. — HONG-KONG. 391
you will have 13 and 15 fathoms water, and 20 fathoms very close to the eastward of
Lamma point: in the small bays of Hong-Kong, nortinvard of the green island, the
depth is generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and fresh water may be procured at the beaches.
About a mile N. E. by E. of the north point of Lamma Island, and near the western
point of a deep cove on Hong-Kong, there is a cascade of very good water, con-
veniently obtained : a short way S. E. of the cascade, directly opposite the mouth
or entrance into the cove, is Lo-chow, a small rocky island, with a bed of dnj
rocks near it : to the S. E. of the island, the depth near it and the rocks is vi or ];{
fathoms ; the cove, in which you have 7 and 8 fathoms water, may be useful to careen
in. About the southern side of Hong-Kong Island a ship could procure very clean
and good shingle ballast, and no doubt the fishermen might be engaged to bring it oft*
to her, so as to ballast her in one or two days.
Tytam Harbour, or Bay, called also Hong-Kong Harbour, is a deep islet which Tytam iiar-
divides the south part of Hong-Kong into two prongs ; the western entrance point ''""'^'
bears N. E. by E. ^ E. from the north point of Ling-ting, distant 11 miles, and is If
miles N. N.W. of the dry rock oft* the western side of Lo-chow ; the point is high and
bluft* with 13 or 14 fathoms water near it : from this point, the land to the westward
extends in a northerly direction, and forms a small bay, in which is the town, or vil-
lage, of Tytam. The harbour is to the eastward of the point, from which the land
stretches nearly North three-quarters of a mile to a small sandy bay, with a Rocky
Islet fronting the beach ; about three-quarters of a mile to the northward of the islet,
the land forms a round projecting point, to the northward of which is a larger bay,
with a sandy beach, forming the western side of the harbour ; in this bay you may
obtain fresh water, and be at a short distance from Tytam Village. The eastern side
of Tytam Harbour is formed by theS. E. point of Hong-Kong Island, oft' which there
are two green hummocks or islets, about If miles to the northward of Lo-chow. The
harbour is a mile wide ; its eastern shore trending N. by W. about 2 miles, and ter-
minating in the two coves which form the head of the harbour : the cove to the N.W.
is shoal and rocky, and has a rivulet of fresh water; which, however, is not to be pro-
cured without inconvenience when the tide is low. Tytam Harbour is free from danger,
and the depth is 6 or 7 fatiioms well in.
If you are to the eastward of Waglan with the wind from eastward, and wish to pro- Directions for
ceed to Tytam Harbour, you may either pass to the northward of Waglan, Soon-koo, saiimg mtoit.
and Lo-chow Islands, through the Si)ig-shee-moon Passage, or to the southward of
these islands into the Lema Channel, then round the dry rocks that lie to the west-
ward of Lo-chow. But the passage to the northward of the islands, being the shortest
route, is preferable, and after opening the harbour, you may haul to the northward in
what berth you think proper ; whereas, by going round to the southward, if tlie wind
be northerly, it is probable you may have to turn in. If you adopt the Sing-shee-moon
Passage, pass Waglan and Soon-koo at about half or three-quarters of a mile to tiie
northward, and steer for the channel, which you will perceive to the westward, formed
by the high Island of Lo-chow to the southward, and by the two green islets oft' the
S. E. point of Hong-Kong to the northward : in this track you will carry 17 and 10
fathoms from Waglan, and by keeping in mid-channel will have 27 and 30 fathoms
water, deepening as you near Lo-chow, and shoaling to 12 or 13 fathoms as you near
the islets; you will decrease the depth very fast to 10 or 11 fathoms wIumi about 1 or
1^ miles to the westward of the two islets, and will tlicn have the harbour open to the
northward of you, and may steer up in the middle of it. In a large ship, anchor in 7
or6i fathoms, one mile to the N. N. E. of the small rocky islet, which you will see on
392
CANTON RIVER. — LEMA ISLANDS.
the western shore : in this position you will be well sheltered from all winds, except
those from South, which cannot aftect you much, as the islands and rocks contiguous
to the entrance prevent any swell from rolling in. This harbour would be very useful
to a ship, in the event of her being near Waglan at the close of the day, with the pro-
bability of a dark and tempestuous night; by running in here, she will at any rate be
snug, even if a Ty-foong should happen during the night.*
Tides. There is very little tide in the harbour, and, like all the places hereabout, it is diffi-
cult to fix the time of high water, owing to the variety of channels, and the wind
greatly influencing the tides ; but its rise and fall is about 7 or 8 feet on spring tides,
and on the neaps not above 3 or 4 feet. A short distance to the eastward of the S.W.
point of the harbour there is a small sand-bank, with 7 fathoms water on it, and 10 or
11 all round. A ship can procure very good shingle ballast in this harbour. The
eastern shore is very rocky near the water side, but the rocks do not project far from
it. Tiie depth between the S.W. point of the harbour and the large rocks off Lo-
chow varies from 13 fathoms off the former to 21 near the latter; the ebb tide sets
through between Lo-chow and Hong-Kong to the eastward.
Off the entrance of Tytam Bay to the S. E. lies the group of islands which form the
Pootoy Island, northern side of the Lema Channel ; Footoy, bearing from the N. E. end of the Great
Lema Island N. N.W., distant about 6 miles, being the southern one of the group.
Pootoy is of moderate height, the appearance in general barren, there being only a
small quantity of brushwood in the valleys. About the western part of the island there
is a cove for boats, with a small rocky islet. Near the entrance of the Lema Channel,
tiie depth of water between Pootoy and the north end of the Lemas is 16 and
17 fathoms, increasing to 18 nearest to the latter.
LO-CHOW, lying to the northward of Pootoy, and separated from it by a narrow
channel, is a high island flattened at top, very steep all round; about its N. Western
brow there is a small peak, with a few large and remarkable rocks on it ; off the west
side of the island, at the distance of half a mile, are some large rocks above water,
having no hidden dangers near them. Soon-koo, lying to the N. E. of Pootoy, and
about East i^ miles from Lo-chow, is a small but high island, rising in a peak towards
the centre ; and near the north-western part of the island there are some rocks
considerably above water. Waglan, in lat. 22° 11' 44" N., Ion. 114° 17°50"E.,
bearing N. ^ W. from the N. E. end of the Lemas, distant 6f miles, and East from
Soon-koo Island nearly a mile, is a small barren rocky islet, the easternmost of this
group, having 16 and 17 fathoms water at a small distance round it to the eastward.
SING-SHEE-MOONf is the channel formed between the north part of Lo-chow
Island and the S. E. point of Hong-Kong, and, although narrow, is safe, the depth
near the two green hummocks being 13 or 15 fathoms, deepening to 27 fathoms in
mid-channel, and 35 fathoms close to the north part of Lo-chow.
Lema Islands. THE LEMA ISLANDS^ are the outermost of the great archipelago that fronts
* The Lady Washington, American ship, moored in this harbour, where she filled up her water, and pro-
cured some hogs, poultry, and fish. It was explored, in 1760, by Felix Mendoza, who makes the entrance to
stretch North, with 12 fathoms water in it, and from 10 to 8 fathoms inside.
t Moon, in Chinese, signifies a gateway, pass, or entrance.
% These are the outermost islands of the great Archipelago that fronts the entrance of Canton River, as the
coast and islands inside of Great Lema trend northward, forming a deep concavity about N. by E. from the east
end of that island.
Lo-clio\v.
Soon-koo.
Waglan.
Sing-shee-
moon
Channel.
CANTON RIVER. — LEMA ISLAND.
393
theentrance of Canton River. The group consists of three large and one small island, ex-
tending in an E. N. E. and W. S.VV. direction 12| miles; the largest island, called the
Great Lema by Europeans, but Tani-quoon-tow by the Chinese, is 35^ miles East of
the Grand Ladrone, its N. E. end being in lat. 22° 4' 4o" N., Ion. 1 14° 18' 30" E. ; it is
6 miles long and 1| broad, of moderate height and undulating, separated from the middle
island, named Ya-chow, by a narrow ciiannel called Yat-moon, in which there are
from 10 to 19 fathoms water ; this passage, having a sunken rock in the middle of its
southern entrance, lately discovered by Captain Creighton, of the ship Cordelia, ought
not to be attempted by navigators. The position of this rock was not accurately
ascertained, but the following is Captain Creighton's account.
" Cordelia, November 14th, IB34: the current and swell setting us bodily on the
land, and having the Yat-moon Passage open, steered in for it, keeping near the
Great Lema to prevent being carried by the current on a small rocky islet oft' the
north point of Yo-chow ; afterwards endeavoured to steer in mid-channel, but the
eddy current swept the ship into the surf that rebounded from the point of Great
Lema, when at the same time a sunken rock appeared about mid-channel, upon which
the ship must have been lost by following that track, as intended. Although blowing
strong outside, the sails flapped to the masts as we entered the passage, which ought
not to be adopted unless in a case of extreme necessity, and then the shore of Great
Lema must be kept close aboard to avoid the Cordelia Rock."
Ya-chow is the middle and highest Lema Island ; from most situations it appears flat
ou the top ; close to its N. E. part lies a small rocky islet, visible when you are to the
eastward, with the Yat-moon Passage open ; and other islets lie inside near its
northern shore.
E, or Eee-chow, called also Sei-tam-mee, or Small Cooley Pole, is the third or
southern of the large islands, separated from Ya-chow by a narrow channel named Eee-
moon, having 29 fathoms water in it. Eee-chow forms more in a peak than either of
the other two, and lias a point projecting to the westward with a hummock on it ; to
the southward of this point lies Tae-tam-raee, or Large Cooley Pole, a small but high
island, having a narrow channel between it and the south point of Eee-moon. Tae-tam-
mee forms theN. E. boundary of the channel, which has Cambridge Rock, Hae-pong
Island, and the White Rocky Islets, bounding it on tiie western side. Tae-tam-mee is
in lat. 21° 59' N., Ion. 114°'?' East, and may be considered as the southernmost of the
Lema Islands. These islands on the south side are all steep and rocky, not aflbrding-^
even a single bay for a boat to find shelter, and have 22 or 23 fathoms about U miles off
them. On the northern sides of the islands, the deptli is generally lo or Hi fathoms close
to the shore. Ships in the North-east Monsoon should endeavour to pass between the
north end of Great Lema and Pootoy, which is to the northward of it ; the nortli end
when viewed from the E.N. E. forms a small peaked hummock. Notwithstanding
these islands appear barren, there are a few men residing on them, preparing charcoal
from small quantities of brushwood found between the rocks, which they send to
Macao for sale. Fresh water may be obtained along tlie north side of the longest
island at several places. Close to the westward of the North point, in a little cove,
there is a Chinese place of worship, and about this part the Compradores boats await
ships after the end of August, when the easterly winds set in. Yat-moon and Eee-
moon Passages should not be used unless in a case of emergency, or when the wind
blows directly through, as they are narrow, with deep water, and have generally a
strong current sweeping through them. Yat-moon is the widest, and of moderate
depth', but the rock discovered by the Cordelia makes it very dangerous. From the
VOL. II. 3 E
Tam-quooti-
tow.
Cordelia Kock
in Yat-moon
Channel.
Ya-chow.
Eee-chow.
Soutli Lema.
Yat-moon and
Eee-moon
Passages.
394
CANTON RIVER. — LEMA CHANNEL.
aiition.
north end of the Lemas, Pedra Banca bears E. by N. | N., distant 48 miles, and the
island on the west side the Pratas Shoal bears S. E., distant 114 miles: from the
northern side of the Lema Passage your course is about West to pass to the north-
ward of Ling-ting, when bound towards the Lantoa Passage.
Lemachannei. THE LEMA CHANNEL, formed by the Lema Islands on the South, and by the
Pootoy group on the North, is about 2 leagues wide and very safe, with generally from
Directions. 17 to 19 fathonis regular soundings, and soft bottom. This channel should, if pos-
sible, be always adopted by ships bound to Canton River in the North-east Monsoon,
to effect which they ought to make the Great Lema bearing to the westward. If the
weather be thick, and the wind blow strong at East or S.E., it may be proper to heave
to, when land cannot be discerned above 1 or 2 leagues,* and to keep in 19 to 20
fathoms, as near as possible, which are the depths close to the east point of the Great
Lema, and at the entrance of the channel generally 18 fathoms. If the severity of the
weather do not permit a ship to enter the channel, she should not shoal under 25 or
26 fathoms ; in these depths she will drift clear outside all the islands.
If, however, a ship should happen to be near the entrance of the Lema Channel in
the evening, and from the falling of the mercury in the barometer, or by the appear-
ance of the weather, a Ty-foong be apprehended, she should run inraediately for shelter
into Tytam Harbour, or into the Ta-thong-moon Passage, or into the channel between
Lamraa and Hong-Kong Islands, as may be most convenient ; in either of which she
will be completely secured from a tempest, if she gain anchorage before night, in one
of these havens.
After August, it is advisable to steer for the Lema Channel, unless you carry a
strong S.W. or southerly gale, close up to the islands ; in this case you may steer direct
for the Grand Ladrone, and proceed through the Great Western Channel for Macao
Road : but with easterly or variable winds the Lema Channel is preferable. Here the
risk of being horsed to the westward by the freshes setting out of the western channel
is avoided, and a northerly wind will carry you to Macao Road ; which is adverse, if
bound in by the western channel. f
During the S.W. or westerly winds, a ship will sometimes find it very difficult to
enter this passage from the eastward, by turning through, as there is generally a set
from West to East, occasioned by the ebb coming from the westward out of the nume-
rous channels, and the flood coming in from the S.W. ; if it blow strong at S.W.
the velocity of the current is about H knots per hour to the eastward, only slacking
a little when it ought to change its direction.
To sail through the Lema Channel towards Canton River, after having entered it,
the course is West to the Lantoa Passage, if you pass on the north side of Ling-ting,
Directions
for the Lema
Channel.
* The Nautilus, of Calcutta, about 15th September, 1 802, made Pedra Branca, and after running to the west-
ward, hove to in the night, keeping in from 18 to 14 fathoms. A strong easterly gale had prevailed in the night,
which increased, with thick weather, at day -light, when unfortunately they found themselves close to the east
side of one of the rocky islands northward of the Lema Channel, on which the ship struck, and soon went to
pieces. The only officer saved gave me this account at Canton immediately after the catastrophe.
f In the Anna, we carried a steady South-west Monsoon until within 4 leagues of the Grand Ladrone, Sep-
tember Uth, 1798, had then faint variable breezes: anchored in 5| fathoms a little above Potoe I3th; this day
being new moon, a gale commenced at northward ; veering to East and S.E., from whence it blew very severe,
brought in a tremendous sea, which broke over the ship, and washed one of the anchors from the bow. With
three anchors down she drove about 3 miles, from off Potoe nearly close to Montanha, and parted two of the
cables before the gale moderated. The Carron made the Great Lema nearly at the same hour we did the Grand
Ladrone, and by entering the Lema Channel, the first of the gale blowing from northward, enabled her to sail
CANTON RIVER. — SOUTH CHANNEL. 395
which is of considerable height, terminating at the summit in a peak of regular conical
form, and distant about 4 leagues W. N. W. from the western part of the Great Lema.
It may be passed on either side, as the wind requires, giving a berth to the sunken
rocks off its N.W. point, and to those above water off the N. E. point already de-
scribed, and the usual soundings Mill be from 15 to 12 fathoms; but the channel to
the northward of the island is preferable, for in daylight it has no hidden danger,
and you may work nearly from side to side.
Having passed on the north side Ling-ting, at l^ or 2 miles' distance, steer West for
Lantoa Passage, and conform to the directions given for sailing through it in the early
part of this section.
After passing between Chi-chow and Achow, the water will deepen from 10 to 15,
16, and 17 fathoms in mid-channel, near the islands which front the S.VV. point of
Lantoa, and there are 7 fathoms close to this point. Having rounded the point at a mo-
derate distance, steer to the northward for Lintin, or to the westward for Macao Road,
as circumstances require ; in the latter case, the depth will gradually decrease to 5^ or
5 fathoms.
SHIPS which pass through the south channel, bounded on the east side by the To sail througii
Lema Islands and on the west side by the White Rocks, N.E. of Hae-pong and Cam- ci'mnneV'
bridge Rock, may steer to the northward for Ling-ting, and pass on the south side
betwixt it and Sam-moon Islands, then proceed as if they had entered by the Lema
Channel. Or they may pass on the south side the Sam-moon Islands, and of I-chow,
the next to the westward, then to the N.W. direct for Laff-Samraee, leaving on the
left side the small Island Chuck-tu-an, which is surrounded by rocks. Having ap-
proached Laff-Sammee, they must keep within three-quarters of a mile or a mile of the
west side of it, and the south part of Lueng-suitow, to avoid the 4 feet Needle Rock,
between them and Sam-cock already described ; then, after passing between Lueng-
suitow and Chung-chow, they may steer for Lintin, or for Macao Road.
SHIPS entering the channel formed betwixt the Grand Ladrone and Gap Rock, or
by the narrow passage between the latter and Hae-pong, may steer to northward, and
proceed, as last directed, along the south sides of I-chow and the islands opposite
Lantoa Point. Or if bound into Macao Road, there is a more direct passage about a
mile wide, with 15 fathoms water, between Pak-leak-low and Chook-chow, then on
the north side of Tong-hou and Leung-neeb, and to the southward Ty-lo-chow, which
track lies nearly in a direct line towards the road, Pak-leak-low is the nearest large
island to the Grand Ladrone on the N.E. side, and a little to the eastward of it there is
a small island. Chook-chow, consisting of two small islands, lie more eastward, between
the former and I-chow ; although the channel is safe in the daytime betwixt Chook-
chow and Pak-leak-low, a rock N.E. of the latter, nearly level with the water's edge,
requires attention in passing. The depths in this track are 14 to 12 fathoms, decreas-
ing inside to 8 and 7, then gradually to 5 fatlioms in Macao Road. On the north
side of the Grand and the Little Ladrone there is a safe passage, with 15 to 10 fathoms
water between them and the islands to the northward, by giving a berth to the sunken
rock that lies half a mile from the north side of the Little Ladrone; but a ship
through the channel : and by veering to East and S. E., it carried her up to Lintin, where she rode in smooth
■water during the hardest part of the gale, whilst we, in the Anna, were in danger of being driven on shore.
Our Chinese pilot completely lost his faculties through fear. Had the ship parted from all the anchors, we
could not have veered her head towards the river, on account of the strength of the wind.
3 E 2
396 CANTON RIVER. — THE TYPA.
adopting it should pass round Potoe on the outside : although there are 6 and 6J
fathoms betwixt it and Woong-boo, the nearest island, it is not advisable for ships to
go between them.
FROM MACAO ROAD AND THE TYPA TO THE BOCCA-TIGRIS.
SHIPS about to enter CANTON RIVER, near the equinox in September, or at
Caution reia- any Other time when a Ty-foong is apprehended, should proceed well up the river
in™ Canton" abovc Lintin, where they will be much safer during a storm than in Macao Road.
Hiver. When passing Macao, an officer may be sent in the outside pilot's boat, or in the Com-
pradore's, or some other Chinese boat, to procure the river pilot whilst the ship is
proceeding upward. It is not safe to send the ship's boat ashore in passing, unless
she is near Macao, and the wind fair for the boat to run in, because several boats have
been driven out to sea and have perished ; the Ladrones have captured others which
were sent to Macao for pilots ;• and the officers or Europeans who have the misfor-
tune to fall into the hands of these pirates are generally threatened with death until a
heavy sum is paid for tiieir ransom. Capt. Funter, who was captured among the
islands, in a brig returning from Manila towards Macao, suffered a very cruel death
under the hands of these barbarians. The ship Ann, Captain Churchman, was boarded
by them in 1808, and himself, his officers and crew, were massacred.
THE TYPA ANCHORAGE is formed between two high islands ; that on the
TheTypa. south side. Called Apomee or Ko-ho, is separated from the N. E. point of Montanha
by a narrow gut with 20 feet water in it, decreasing to 9 or 10 feet farther in towards
the Typa. The island on the north side is called Typa Cabrado, or Cabaretta, and by
the Chinese Kai-kong : the rocky east point of this island is called Cabaretta Point ;
and the east point of the outer island, Ko-ho or Cow-ow Point, bears from Potoe
Island N. by W., f W. distant 6^ miles. The entrance of the Typa is in lat. 22=^ 8' N.
Ships entering or leaving the Typa should weigh at half-flood, if circumstances
admit. Coming in, steer for the north point of Ko-ho, and pass it pretty close, the
deepest water being on this side the entrance ; continue to steer along until the Peak
of Sy-lock is on with the north point of Ko-ho. This mark preserved, or the north
point of Sy-lock kept just in sight, bearing about E. by S., leads in the deepest water ;
and when the east end of the middle hill of Kai-kong opens to the westward of a
rocky mount that forms the S.W. point of the same island, you may haul gradually to
the northward, and anchor near the west point of Kai-kong, with the south point of
Sy-lock open of the north point of Ko-ho. Here, the depth is 3| to 4 fathoms at low
water, and ships are sheltered from all winds by the high lands around ; the deepest
water is near the west point of Kai-kong, for the bay opposite, formed at the east end
of the Island Mackkareera, is shoal. The watering cove is at the west part of this
bay, and from the north point a reef of roeks projects near a quarter of a mile to the
eastward ; a ship ought not to go so far northward as to ap|)roach this reef. In the
middle and eastern parts of the Typa the water is not so deep in the fair channel lead-
ing to the anchorage, for there the depths are only 14 and 15 feet at low water; but a
ship can receive no injury by grounding, the bottom being remarkably soft. High
water in the Typa at 10 hours on full and change of moon ; the tide rises about 7 feet,
Tides. and runs at the rate of 1|^ and 2 miles per hour, when not influenced by the winds. The
ebb runs out of the mouth of the Typa, but it sets across the entrance if you are out-
* One of these, belonging to the Marquis of Ely, with the fourth officer and twelve men, fell into the hands
of the Ladrones, in 1809, and were ransomed for 7,000 Spanish dollars.
CANTON RIVER. — MACAO. 397
side the points. There is only a few minutes of variation here at present, and it is variation.
difficult to say whether it is easterly or westerly.
MACAO ROAD is shoal, the depth generally from 3 and :i^ fathoms at low tide Directions for
on the west side, to 4^ or 5 fathoms close over to Sam-cock and the otiier islands j",al!°^'",?j",
that bound the east side : there is no danger of a ship striking on her anchor, for as
the bottom consists of very soft loam or loose mud, the anchors immediately bury in it.
Large ships, to preserve good deptli of water, usually anchor near the islands, with
Macao Town bearing between W. by N. and W. N.VV., distant 6 or 7 miles, which
renders the communication with that place difficult and dangerous in blowing weather;
nor do the pilots like to go so far oft' if any of tlie Ladrones are in the neighbour-
hood. With Ko-ho Point bearing about 8. by W. ^ W., and Macao Fort or the
Town W. IS. W., distant 4 or 5 miles, a large ship may anchor in 4^ fathoms at low
water, and be more conveniently situated for procuring a pilot. A ship drawing
under 18 feet may anchor with Macao Town on the same bearing, about H miles off
the entrance of the Typa, into which she may run if a gale is approaching." A small
ship may anchor in the South-west Monsoon in the mouth of the Typa, nearest to the
south point, where she will have 3 or 3| fathoms at low water ; and a little within the
islet of Kaow, which lies on the north side of Ko-ho Point, fresh water may be got at
several places. In the North-east Monsoon she may anchor close over to the northern
shore, abreast a sandy beach, between the Nine Islands and Macao Town, in 3 or
3^ fathoms at low tide : here, she will generally have smooth water and an easy com-
munication with the shore.
Macao City, called Gaou or Ou-moon by the Chinese, is in lat. 22° 10^ N., Macao.
Ion. 1 13° 32' E., or 18 miles East of Canton by chronometers, and 12 miles West of the
Grand Ladrone. There are several forts on the hills round the city, which is irre-
gularly built on a high peninsula that terminates the Island of Macao to the southward,
and joined to it by a narrow isthmus north of the town.
This healthy and pleasant settlement, the only one possessed by Europeans within
the limits of the Chinese empire, is completely under the jurisdiction of the viceroy of
Canton : although the Portuguese are permitted to retain the nominal government of
the town, it is dependant on the Chinese for provisions and every necessary of life.
The river pilots which are procured here each receive a chop from the residing man-
darin, to deliver to the officer stationed at the fort in Bocca-tigris, describing the force
of the ship, and to what nation she belongs.
Macao Harbour, formed between the peninsula and the large island Twee-lien- tik ii«rijoiir.
shan to the westward, is narrow at the entrance, but has 21 and 20 feet at low water
close to Fort St. Jago, situated on the east point : and from hence, along tiie eastern
shore to the town, the depths continue nearly the same.
A ship proceeding to the harbour must pass through the Typa, there being 13 feet Direciions.
at low water in the fair track between the Typa and the entrance of the harbour; but
only 12 and 11 feet in the large space betwixt Kai-kong and Macao. The channel
lies in a direct line from the anchorage in the Typa to the harbour's entrance, and to
avoid Pedromeo sunken rock about a (piarter of a mile eastward of the north-east point
of Mackkareera, the north-east point of Montanha must be kept open to the eastward
of Mackkareera ; or in passing it, keep rather more than mid-channel towards Kai-
kong. From hence, steer direct for the entrance of the harboiu', there being no other
danger except Pan-lung-shee, a rock on the east side the channel, from w Inch the outer
point of Great Mal-Iow-chow bears W. by S. i 8., and the point of Fort St. Jago
398
CANTON RIVER. — LINTIN ISLAND.
Nine Islands.
Tides and
iiiidei' tides.
Tides.
N.W. -tN., distant about half a mile. Great Mai -low-chow is the outermost of two
high islets, to the S.W. of the harbour's entrance. The north-east point of Mon-
tanha on witli the east point of Mackkareera leads clear to the westward of Pan-lung-
shee, and a ship will not be too near it, if she do not get to the eastward of a line
drawn from the west point of Kai-kong to Fort St. Jago point. This point should be
rounded pretty close, in entering the harbour, and the eastern shore kept nearly a board,
to the anchorage abreast the town. By obtaining permission from the governor, a dis-
abled ship may here be hove down and repaired ; in such case, a pilot will be granted
to bring her from the road or Typa, to the harbour; but any navigator, by adhering to
the preceding directions, or being in possession of Capt. P. Heywood's excellent plan of
this place, published by Laurie and Whittle, in 1809, may run safely into the Typa
without a pilot.
COW-CHOW, or NINE ISLANDS, bearing from Potoe N. i W., distant 12|
miles, and lying near the western shore, about 4 miles N. E. of Macao, are a group of
islets near each other; the outermost, bearing N. 57° E. from the Church Senhora de
Penhos at Macao, has 4 fathoms at low water close to ; and S.W. from this islet about
three-quarters of a mile there is a rock always-visible, not in the way of ships.
From Macao to Linkeet, the western side of the channel generally consists of a mud-
bank, on which the depths gradually decrease; they increase quickly in standing from
thence to the east side of the channel.
In Macao Road, and between it and Lintin, tides are frequently irregular, setting
in a different direction at the surface to what they do underneath, by which ships are
rendered ungovernable in light breezes. The ebb is stronger, and continues longer
than the flood ; the freshes often running out below, when a flood tide at the surface
is setting into the river.
DEPARTING from Macao Road, with a leading wind, a ship may weigh with the
ebb tide, if she can haul over to N. Eastward for Lintin ; as in such case the tide will
act upon her larboard bow, and keep her oft' from the western shore : whereas, with
an easterly wind, the flood is likely to horse a ship into shoal water near that shore.
With a fair wind, steer N. Eastward for Lintin ; if it be night, from 4^ to 5 fathoms
are good soundings; for at low water spring tides, greater depths ought not to be
expected, until several leagues N. Eastward of Macao Road. In turning up with a
northerly wind and flood tide, tack from the west side the channel in 4J or 4 fathoms,
according to the size of the ship, the lead being a safe guide all along the western shore.
The islands eastward of the road may be closely approached, having 5 fathoms near
them, and when past Chung-chow, which is the northernmost of these islands, the
depths increase to 9 and 10 fathoms in the east side the channel, towards Lantoa.
Working from hence to Lintin in the night, stand to 4^ fathoms in the west part of the
channel, and do not deepen above 7 or 7^ fathoms to the eastward. Here, the tides
become stronger as a ship proceeds upwards.
Lintin Island. LINTIN ISLAND, situated on the east side the channel, is of considerable size,
terminating at the summit in a high conical peak, which is in lat. 22°24|^'N.,and 4| miles
East of the Grand Ladrone, bearing N. E. from the outermost of the Nine Islands, dis-
tant nearly 5 leagues. From the south end of Lintin a narrow spit of sand extends about
4^ miles southward, having only 3 fathoms water, and rather less in some places, steep
to on the west side, with 10 fathoms near it, 7 fathoms touching its verge, then 3
Uiiections for
sailing from
Macao Road
towards Boeca-
fisris.
CANTON RIVER. — LINTIN CHANNEL. 399
fathoms upon it, and the water suddenly deepens on the east side to 8 or 9 fathoms.
Wlien Lintin is approached within 5 miles, to avoid this spit a ship ought not to stand
so far to the eastward as to bring the peak to bear N. i E., and she should tack im-
mediately after deepening to 9 or 10 fathoms ; but in the night, she ought not to deepen
towards it above 7, or at most 8 fathoms. With Lintin Peak bearing N. ^ E., and
Chung-chow S. S.W., there are 7 fathoms on its western edge. Lantoa Peak S. E. by S.
is a cross bearing for its southern extremity, in 5 fathoms water.
The anchorage at Lintin is in 10 or 12 fathoms, about 1^ miles off the sandy beach Anchorage.
on the S.W. side ; under 10 fathoms the water shoals quickly to the shore. Fresh
water is procured at the eastern extremity of the beach, and at times a few bullocks ■'Supplies.
and vegetables may be procured from the inhabitants of the village. High water at 12
hours on full and change of moon ; the tide rises 7 or 8 feet, runs nearly North and Tides.
South, and the ebb in the freshes sometimes sets at the rate of 5J or 6 miles per hour.
In the North-east Monsoon the neap times are very irregular, sometimes only one llood
perceptible during 24 hours, with a small rise when the other flood should prevail. Off
the west end of this island there are 14 and 15 fathoms water ; round on the north side,
not more than 2^ or 3 fathoms : and about half-way between the island and Kee-ow
Point there is a mud-bank, with 2f and 3 fathoms on it at low water, having on the
inside, between it and that point, 4 and 4^ fathoms.
KEE-OW LSLAND, about 7 miles West of Lintin, and named from a village a Kecow Point.
little way to the westward, here forms the western shore : the land from thence taking
a westerly direction, a large open space intervenes between it and Lankeet ; on the
south side of which, and close round the northern side of Kee-ow Island and Point, is
the northern channel of only Ij fathoms water, leading to Cam-sing-moon.
CAM-SING-MOON is a safe harbour for small vessels, and is frequented by those cam-sing-
eraployed in the opium trade ; the entrance, which is about half a mile wide, bears """"'■
W. by S. 10 miles from Lintin Peak, and is 8 miles to the northward of tlie Nine
Islands : it is formed between the south part of Kee-ow Island and a point of Macao
Island called Bluff Head. Between Bluff Head and the sunken rocks, and small isle
near the opposite shore, the depths are irregular, from 14 to 6 fathoms ; but inside,
about half a mile West, or W. by S. from the small isle, the bottom is soft, affording
safe anchorage in 6, 5, or 4 fathoms, by avoiding the shoal patches of this harbour,
marked on the small plan of it, given on the Chart of Canton River. This would be
a desirable haven to run for, at the approach of a Ty-foong, were it not for the exten-
sive flat outside being too shoal for the passage of ships drawing much water, the
depths being only from 2 to 3 fathoms at low water spring tides, to the distance of
2 miles outside the entrance ; but when within a quarter of a mile of Bluff Point they
increase quickly to 7 and 8 fathoms, and this is the proper side to steer for, in coming
from the eastward, and also to keep nearest to, when steering into the haven.
LINTIN SAND, or the Lintin Bar of the pilots, is a long, narrow sand-bank, Lintin smi.i.
the southern extremity bearing W. by N. | N. from Fan-shee-ak, and N. N. W. i; W.
from Lintin Peak, distant about 5 miles from the north end of this island. It extends
in a N. N.W. direction nearly 8 miles, bounding the east side of the channel, the deep-
est water in which is near the west side of the sand : to the eastward of it, in the
Eastern Channel, leading to Urmston Bay, there are from 3,\ to 4 and o fathoms. The
sand is not a quarter of a mile in breadth, and lias 2^ fathoms on the middle and
400 CANTON RIVER. — LINTIN CHANNEL.
southern parts, and only 2 fathoms at low water towards its northern extremity, with
Sampan-cow just open to the westward of Anung-hoy Point. About 4^ miles from
Lintin, bearing- North from the peak, there are two rocky islets, the easternmost of
which, called Fan-shee-ak, is the larger : when these rocks are in a line bearing
E. byS. f S., the southern extremity of Lintin Sand is on the same bearing. The
east side of the channel, between the south extremity of the sand and the north end of
Lintin, is bounded by mud banks, with 3 and 3^ fathoms on them at low water, the
soundings rather irregular.
To sail from To Sail up channel from abreast Lintin with a fair wind, run up in soundings from
dlani'ei"'' ^ ^^ ^i f^thoms : with a westerly wind, borrow on the west side of the channel : if it
is easterly, keep in 6 to 6^ fathoms with the Hood tide. Ships may with safety pro-
ceed 3 or 4 leagues above Lintin, even in the night, with a working wind, the lead
being a certain guide, by tacking from the west side of the channel in 4^ fathoms, and
from the east side in 6^ fathoms ; but after being about 2 or 2| leagues to the north-
ward of Lintin, they ought to tack in 5^ fathoms from the east side of the channel, for
the deepest water is near the edge of Lintin Sand, and if a ship begin to shoal on its
verge to 5 fathoms, she will not have room to tack.
Lantoa is frequently obscured by clouds or haze, but when its summit is visible, the
fVest Peak of that island aflbrds a good mark for running up channel in the day.
Proceeding upward, steering N. by W. or N.byW.^VV., draw gradually the high
west peak of Lantoa on with the west end of Lintin, and continue to draw it more
easterly until it is on with Lintin Peak, or a little open to the eastward of that peak,
and keep it so, until you are more than half-way from Lintin towards Lankeet. Then,
if the wind is contrary, Lantoa West Peak may be brought nearly to the east end of Lin-
tin, in tacking from the east side of the channel ; and it may be brought well to the
westward of Lintin Peak, when tacking from the west side ; but on a nearer approach
to Lankeet, the West Peak of Lantoa must not be brought to the westward of Lintin
Peak. When witliin 5 miles of Lankeet, the West Peak of Lantoa must not be
brought more westerly than touching the east end of Lintin, when in the west side of
the channel ; and to a considerable way open with the same, when on the eastern side.
Here the depths decrease, and there is only about a fathom more water in the east side
than in the west side of the channel. A narrow mud-bmik, with 2^ fathoms at low
water, bounds the west side of the channel in this part, and extends in a N. N.W.
direction about 4 miles, terminating nearly i\ miles to the S.W. of Lankeet. There is
a channel of 4^ and 5 fathoms westward of tiiis mud-bank, into which, or upon the
bank, the pilots sometimes get ships in the night ; but with large ships they are more
inclined to borrow close over to the eastward, whereby they have frequently grounded
the European ships upon Lintin Sand.
Some of the pilots know little of the navigation of the river, and when they get into
shoal water, cry immediately, let go anchor, although the ship may be touching the
ground : it is therefore proper, when the pilot appears confused or uncertain of his
position, to anchor before the ship get into shoal water.
A SHIP being about 1 or li miles off Lintin, a N. by W. ^ W. course would
carry her fair through the channel, close on the east side of Sampan-chow, were the
tides to run in that direction ; but from Lintin they set N.N.VV. and S. S. E. nearly as
far as the north end of Lintin Sand, and from thence to Sampan-chow they set about
N.W. by W. and S. E. by E.
Steering up channel, with the West Peak of Lantoa open a little to the eastward of
CANTON RIVER.— LANKEET. 401
Lintin Peak, or keeping between 4-^ and 5h fathoms if the weather is cloudy, Lankeet
Island will be seen making like a saddle, and shortly afterwards two small i.slets or
rocks will appear close to its eastern extremity. These rocks will be nearly on with
the middle of the opening of the Bocca-tigris when first seen, and should not be
brought more easterly ; nor in working ought they to be brought to touch the point
of Tiger Island, which forms the west side of the opening, until within 4^ miles of
Lankeet ; being then to the northward of Lintin Sand, a ship may edge over to the
eastward. There is no good cross mark to know w hen clear of this sand ; but when a
pagoda on the western shore is brought to bear S. 52°\V., a ship will cross to the
northward of its extremity. Sampan-chow a little open with Anung-hoy Point, bear-
ing N. 26^° W., leads upon the north end of the sand, from w hich the little hill on the
east end of Lankeet is distant about 5^ miles.
LANKEET FLAT, or bar, extending from the northern extremity of Lintin Sand, Lankeet Fiat.
across the channel to the shoal mud-bank on the west side, and N.W. to Lankeet,
consists of sand and mud, with hard bottom in some places. The depths on it are 3 and
3^ fathoms at low water, and 4^ to 4f fathoms at high water spring tides : a ship draw-
ing more than 20 feet ought not to pass over it until about half-flood. Close to the
northward of this flat there are generally some fishing stakes, and others between Lintin
and Lankeet; care should be taken not to run over the boats fastened to them, which
commonly shew lights when ships approach them in: the night.
LANKEET, or LONG-EET,* in lat. 22° 41' N., bearing N.N.W. ^ W. from Lintin j;^^^"
Peak, is formed of two hills, sloping into a low point at the west end, where is a well
of fresh water, by a small temple close to some trees ; but the island is. not inhabited.
From its south part a flat projects 2 miles to S. S. Eastward, having only 2f fathoms
water on it, between which and a long narrow sand to the westward there is a chan- Channel and
nel leading close past the west point of the island, to the western part of Ty-cock-tow. the«°^Ha'r°i
To proceed up the channel, keep a large white patch on Ty-cock-tow in a line with of it.
the outermost of the rocks that project off" the west end of Lankeet ; with this mark
on, a vessel will have 4f or 5 fathoms at high water, about 4 miles from Lankeet;
and will carry the same till nearly abreast the west end of the island, where she
will have 6 or 6| fathoms close to the rocks. This is a convenient place for a ship
to moor, when circumstances require her stores or sick to be landed. All the space
between Lankeet and Ty-cock-tow is very shoal, having in many places only one
fathom at low water.
SAMPAN-CHOW, or BOAT LSLET, lying about If miles N. N. E. of Lan- sampan-chow.
keet Hill, is small, of middling height, resembling a boat turned bottom upwards : an
extensive rocky bank projects N.W. from it, partly above water, joining to the shoal
bank that extends from Lankeet to Ty-cock-tow. Close to Sampan-chow on the east
side are 9 fathoms water. This islet is the best guide for crossing over the flat between
the northern part of Lintin Sand and Lankeet.
WHEN SAILING or working up channel, keeping in 4^ to oj fathoms, shortly To sail over
after the rocks off" the east end of Lankeet are perceived on with "the middle of the ^''"''^''' ''''"•
opening of Bocca-tigris, or rather more westerly, Sam[)an-chow will be seen when
within 6 or 7 miles of Lankeet, and will then appear under the land, a little to the
* Dragon's cave or den.
VOL. II. 3 F
402 CANTON RIVER. — FANSYACK CHANNEL.
eastward of the higli, round summit of Anung-hoy, a high, round hill, sloping to
a point on the west side, and forming the eastern boundary of the Bocca-tigris. When
Sampan-chow bears about N. N.W., it is on with the middle of Anung-hoy Hill, and
this is a leading mark through the channel. With a working wind, turn upwards with
Sampan-chow kept between the eastern shoulder of Anung-hoy Hill and the west
point of the same, but that islet must not be opened to the westward of Anung-hoy
Point until you are clear of Lintin Sand ; for if it be open with that point, you will get
upon the northern extremity of the sand, about 5j miles from Lankeet. With
an easterly wind, to prevent being set by the tide towards Lankeet, keep in the east
side of the channel, with Sampan-chow shut in a little to the eastward of Anung-hoy
Point, or nearly on with it : when within 4 miles of Lankeet, you may stand well to
the eastward in working, opening Sampan-chow considerably to the westward of the
ami from thence point, being then to the northward of the extremity of Lintin Sand; you must not,
to Bocca- however, stand so far over as to bring Anung-hoy Point to touch Chuen-pee, but
"^"^ tack before they come on, for farther to the eastward the water is shoal. After open-
ing Sampan-chow with Anung-hoy Point, which with a westerly wind need not be
done until abreast of Lankeet, steer then direct for the land of Anung-hoy, giving
Sampan-chow a berth to the westward of half a mile or more at discretion, in 9 or 8
fathoms ; the depths from hence will be 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, to the entrance of the
Bocca-tigris, increasing inside to 13 and 16 fathoms near Whang-tong.
If in a small ship a cast of 3|^ or 4 fathoms hard ground be got before Lankeet is
seen, in a clear niglit, you may be certain of its being on Lintin Sand, and will deepen
fast in hauling to the westward into the channel.
Fansyack FANSYACX, or FAN-SHEE-AK CHANNEL,* formed on the east side of
cijannei. Lintiu North Sand, is thus described by Captain Blakely : — It would be imprudent
for ships drawing 23 feet water to attempt this channel, being very narrow just above
and about Tree Island, with a considerable swell when blowing strong from north-
ward. Ships of 20 or 21 feet draft, intending to. proceed by this channel with a
working wind, should observe the following directions. In coming from southward
keep the eastern shore aboard, avoiding the spits of shoal water at the points of the
islands until off the north end of the Island Mah-chow, the shoal off the south end
of which being avoided by not shutting Tree Island in with Mah-chow, or by not
bringing the highest peak of Mah-chow to the westward of N. | W., when Fansyack
and the rock off" it are in one, which is the mark for the south end of Mah-chow spit ;
from hence to Syah or Tree Island (known by having one large tree on its centre),
when standing towards Lintin Bar or Fansyack Bank, keep the lead going, and tack
in 4 fathoms or less, according to a ship's draft of water ; but the lead will best guide,
as the bank is much curved in shape. Standing to the eastward do not bring the
north or highest peak of Mah-chow to the eastward of South, and when the south
point of Suechan bears N. 43° E. do not bring the tree on Tree Island to the west-
ward of N. by W. i W., to avoid the shoal spit of 2 or 3 fathoms, that extends S. S. E.
from that island nearly a mile. When thus far, endeavour to pass between Tree
Island and the fishing stakes No. 1 (in the chart) placed near it ; this island is
safe to approach close to the rocks, but on the western side of these stakes the water
shoals suddenly to 3^, 3, and 2| fathoms, irregular soundings, sand and mud.
Being close to the west end of Tree Island, do not bring the tree to bear more to the
* Captain Blakely, of the Company's ship Waterloo, surveyed it in 1829, which survey is laid down on my
chart of Canton River and proximate channels.
CANTON RIVER. — BOCCA-TIGRIS. 403
southward than S. E. ^ E., this bearing being close on the edge of the shore bank.
Standing to the westward, do not bring the rock ofl' Fansyack to the eastward of tlie
saddle on the east end of Lintin, or the east end of the fishing stakes (numbered in the
chart 3) to the northward of N. W. by N., the lead not being a sufficient guide for the
channel bank.
If the fishing stakes be not removed, they appear to be a preferable guide to
the land-mark, being always discernible, but either may i>e used in clear weather.
When within half a mile of the stakes No. 3, the passage becomes wider, extending
from the shore bank to Lintin Bar, with 4, 4^, and 4^ fathoms at low watei-, shoaling
gradually on either side, so as to render the lead a guide in tacking, tlie bottom being
very soft mud.
If close to Tree Island with a leading wind, steer direct for the centre of the fishing
stakes No. 3, and pass on either side of them, as circumstances require.
There is another range of fishing stakes (numbered 4), bearing S.W. ^ W. of No. 3,
which will, when near them, and bearing South, warn ships of their proximity to
Lintin Bar.
With ships drawing under 20 feet, a wider range may be taken ; but they ought, if
possible, to follow the above directions, and at any rate pass between Ti'ee Island and
the fishing stakes No. I, or very close to their western end, and avoid the channel
bank as much as possible. Ships drawing 17 feet or under may pass up or down any
part of the channel, keeping to the eastward of Fansyack well over towards Mah-
chow, avoiding the shoal spits which project from the ends of the islands. The tides Tides.
were found to be very irregular, esj)ecially on the neaps, the rise and full then only
2^ to 3 feet, and from 6 to 8^ feet on the springs : velocity from 3 to 4 knots,
and from 2 to 2| knots on the neaps. High water about one hour at the change
of moon.
A ship proceeding up with a working wind should weigh instantly that the tide
slackens sufficiently for her to make any progress, in whatever part of the channel she
may have anchored. The passage between Lintin and Fansyack should not be
attempted in large ships, having only 2| to 3 fathoms at low water in most places.
BOCCA-TIGRIS TO CANTON.
CHUEN-PEE, in lat. 22° 44^' N., of!" which British ships of war usually anchor, chuen-pecand
is the southern extremity of the land on the east side of the Bocca-tigris, as Anung- \^^i ^'"^"^"^
hoy is the northernmost land on the same side : Chuen-pee Point is formed close by a
small peak, called Chuen-pee Hill, bearing N. N. E., distant if miles from Sampan-
chow, having on each side a small sandy beach. Fresh water is got in the bay on the
east side near a temple, but ships do not anchor there, the water being shoal on a sandy
flat that extends from the point to the eastward and S. Eastward. The anchorage is
in Of or 7 fathoms at low water, about a third of a mile ofJthe beach on the nortli side
the point : the tide flows here till near 2 hours on full and change of moon, and rises
about 7 to 8^ feet. On the N.W. part of Chuen-pee there is a small \\ atcli-turrct,
with a fort under it on the north side; between these and the south pi)int several
rocks project a quarter of a mile from the shore, with 12 fathoms close to the outer-
most ; on these rocks some ships have grounded by borrow ing too close. Anson Bay, on
the same side, formed between the north point of Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy, is very
shoal ; from 6 fathoms the depth decreases suddenly to 2 fathoms within a line joining
the points, afibrding only a harbour for boats.
3 F 2
404
CANTON RIVER. — BOCCA-TIGRIS.
Ty.cock-tow. TY-COCK-TOW, the point of land on the west side of the Bocca-tigris, has near
it 7 fathoms water ; it is a smooth anchorage when westerly and S. Westerly winds
prevail, and preferable at such times to the anchorage off" Chuen-pee. From Ty-cock-
tow to Sampan-chow the west side of the channel is lined by a shoal flat, on which
boats only can pass on to Ou-chow, the two small islets adjacent.
ANUNG-HOY POINT (called Namshan by the pilots) lies about 2 miles North
of Ty-cock-tow Point, and near 3 miles N.W. ^ N. from the Chuenpee Peninsula; it
forms the eastern side of the Bocca-tigris, and has two forts on it, behind which the
land, which is high, rises to a peak.
Wang tong. THE NORTH AND SOUTH WANG-TONG are two islands nearly in mid-
channel abreast of Anunghoy Point. They lie on a bank about a third of a mile apart
N. N.W. and S. S. E. from each other, the bank extending both above and below them
in the same direction. The North Wang-tong is a small island, with some trees and a
fort on it, betwixt which and the opposite fort on Anung-hoy is the narrow pass,
Bocca-tigris. called the Bocca-tigris, which is contracted by a rock above water at a small distance
from Wang-tong. Close to this rock there is deep water, from 18 to 22 fathoms, and
although the passage between it and Anung-hoy Fort is too narrow for working a large
ship, she can always back and Jill through with the tide, when the wind is light or
contrary.
By attending to the foregoing directions, a ship may be navigated with safety to
the Bocca-tigris without a pilot ; having entered it, the fair channel is in a direct line
betwixt Anung-hoy Point and Wang-tong; but as no ships are permitted to pass, until
the chop and Macao pilots are examined, the best position to anchor is in 7 or 8
fathoms abreast of, or a little above the fort and turret on Chuen-pee.
Canton River. The entrance of the CANTON RIVER, named CHOO-KEANG* by the Chinese,
is formed by the points of Chuen-pee and Ty-cock-tow, or perhaps more strictly be-
tween Ty-cock-tow and Anung-hoy. It is divided into two channels by the Wang-
tong Islands ; the eastern one of which is used by European shipping, and is named
Hoo-mun, or Hoo-tow-munt (Tiger's Head Entrance), and Foo-mun by the pilots.
The Chinese have a redoubt and a fort at Anung-hoy Point on the eastern side, and
two forts on the northernmost Wang-tong, which forms the western side of the channel.
On the south side of the North Wang-tong there is an office belonging to the Hoppoo,
or Collector of Customs, where the pilots must, whether going up or down, produce
the chops for allowing the ships to pass ; and lately, a squadron of their war boats
have been stationed about Chuen-pee: to these must the pilots also produce the chops,
otherwise they will at times fire at the ships, and certainly punish the pilots most
severely. It will, therefore, prevent detention or insults, by allowing the pilot boat to
precede you, and make his report.
When entering the river, ships turning through, as they near the South Wang-tong,
must be careful of the shoal flat, that extends 1^ miles to the S. E. of the island, having
only H fathoms water in some places : they should not, therefore, stand so far to the
westward as to bring the eastern extreme of Tiger Island so near as to touch the
eastern part of the fort on the North Wang-tong, but tack before they come on.
* The Chinese names were obtained from the Reverend Robert Morrison, at Canton, by Captain Ross ; from
whose survey of the river to the Second Bar, these remarks have been obtained.
■\ Or Hoo-tow-moon ; called by Europeans Bocca-tigris, a name first applied to this pass by the Portuguese.
CANTON RIVER. — SMALL BAR. 405
The passage is between a Dry Rock, near the Wang-tong-, and the high land of
Anung-hoy, and is only half a mile wide, with deep water, and an uneven bottom. The
tide runs strong through in eddies, and ships generally keep nearest the eastern shore
in passing.
To the westward of the Wang-tongs If miles there is a very remarkable and high
island, named by the Chinese Ty-foo, and by Europeans Tiger Island, the summit of
which appears cleft. About half-way between the south point of this island and
North AVang-tong there is a Dangerous Pointed Rock, having only 16 feet water Dangerous
on it at low spring tide. You will avoid this rock by not bringing Sampan-chow to ^°'^^-
touch the east end of North Wang-tong, until you have approached Tiger Island so
near as not to see the high land of Geefoo to the westward of it. At anchor in a boat
over the rock, the small round hummock on the western part of the South Wang-Tong
was seen over the western slope of the North Wang-Tong, between the small redoubt
with a tree on it and the point : and the high land of Geefoo was just touching the
western brow of Tiger Island. The soundings round the rock are 7 and 8 fathoms.
About a third of a mile eastward of the highest part of Tiger Island there is a pro-
jecting point of the Tawling-saa Sand, and when in 4 fathoms on the edge of it, the Tawiing-taa
Watch Tower, which stands on a hill at Chuen-pee, was exactly over the point of ^*" '
Anung-hoy, or eastern side of the river's entrance. Ships turning up towards Tiger
Island may stand to the eastward and shut in the high land of Chuen-pee with Anung-
hoy Point ; but when they arrive at the south point of Tiger Island, must attend to the
mark for the edge of the sand. Large ships passing the narrow part, with a contrary
wind, generally back and fill through, as the tides are strong.
The channel to the westward of the Wang-tong Islands has depths of from 5 to 10
fathoms, and was frequently used by H. INI. Ships during the recent operations in the
Canton River. When past the Wang-tongs they again struck into the usual eastern
channel, by passing between the dangerous rock (above described) and the south point
of Tiger Island.
After passing Tiger Island with a fair wind no better mark appears than to keep Directions.
the tower on Chuen-pee open until you bring Ty-cock-tow Point on with the eastern
side of Tiger Island, then steer up the river with them on ; they will lead you u|) in
the deepest part in the channel, but nearest to Taw-ling-saa, in 8 or 9 fathoms water.
This mark will not answer much farther, than to bring the remarkable high part of
Geefoo on with the highest land to the westward, or bearing about S.W. ; you should
then steer more to the right, and open the point again ; so that before you arrive
abreast the low western shore, you will bring a hummock on Ty-cock-tow clear of the
highest part of Tiger Island, and over the part marked B in the chart* of the river:
this mark will carry you in a good deep channel, clear of the Knowls, up to the fishing
stakes situated near the western shore, and abreast the spot called the Small Bar. smaii Bar.
If your ship does not draw above 20 feet water, and having arrived abreast the fish-
ing stakes, steer a little more to the right, and bring the vutr/i linmmocic between where
it is in the view, and the part marked A ; these marks will carry you between the
north end of the Small Bar, and a hard knowl to the north-westward of it, having only
3|; fathoms over it at low spring tides. You may steer up with this mark until
abreast of a small creek on the eastern shore, bearing about N. N. E. from the fishing
stakes : you may then keep in a good depth, about a (piarter of a mile off that shore,
until the south point of Second Bar Creek is approached, where the channel again
narrows to about a quarter of a mile.
* Engraved from Captain Ross's survey of the river, from Bocca-tigris to the Second Bar.
406
CANTON RIVER.
Channel East
of Small Bar.
Directions for
sailing out-
ward.
The Small Bar is a patch of hard ground about the middle of the river, below the
part where the Company's ships remain to complete their cargoes. "When the mark
hummock on Ty-cock-tow is on with the first or eastern notch of Tiger Island, marked
in the view A, and the fishing stakes on the western shore are all seen end-on, there
are but 2 fathoms water on the shoalest part of the Small Bar. You will likewise dis-
cover the large Tree, marked on the chart, by its being also in a line with the fishing
stakes, when they are end-on towards you.
The pilots always use the channel between the Small Bar and the western shore, and
when about moving down, an Indiaman with a fair wind will weigh the anchor after
she has tended to the flood tide, as by that time the water will have risen 2 or 3 feet
on the knowls. They also place boats in the fair channel, or on the o^ fathoms knowl,
which is to the N.W. of the Small Bar. When they first weigh and are steering south-
ward, they have the viark hummock on Ty-cock-tow over the gap A on Tiger Island,
and keep it so until they are passing the northern point of the small creek, which is
belovv the shipping, when they begin to bring the mark towards the highest part of
Tiger Island ; so that by the time they are drawing near the stakes they will have it
over the part B. In this run, they will not have more than 4^ or 5 fathoms on
the first of the flood, when passing between the bar and the knowl ; but between
the bar and the stakes, 5 and fathoms water. With the mark hummock over
B, a ship may steer for Tiger Island, keeping the marks on until she arrive so
far down as to have the hill of Sawshee on the eastern shore bearing about N. E. or
about N. E. by N., when she should haul a little more to the westward, and shut in
the mark hummock behind the highest part of Tiger Island ; she may then steer
directly for the island, remembering that, after this, the mark hummock must not be
opened out to the eastward : nor need she go further to the westward than to bring
Ty-cock-tow Point on with the east end of Tiger Island ; the depths during this course
will vary from 6 to f) fathoms. The mark hummock as in the view and SaWshee Hill
bearing about N. N. E. ^ E. leads on the edge of Tawling-saa, 1^ miles above Tiger
Island. A ship steering as before directed, when approaching Tiger Island, will open
out the tower on Chuen-pee, and she must not pass so far oft' Tiger Island as to
have the tower touching Anung-hoy, but keep it well open ; and when going below
Tiger Island, that she may avoid the 16-feet rock, do not shut in the east end of Geefoo
behind Tiger Island, until Sampan-chow is seen to the eastward of, or to the left of
North Wang-tong, or until the hummock on the South Wang-tong is shut in behind
the West Tower of the North Wang-tong; after which steer for the entrance of the river.
Having sounded the channel between the eastern shore and Small Bar, it seems to be
the safest for large ships coming down without a pilot, for it is only necessary to place
a boat on the eastern part of the Small Bar in 4 fathoms, as the ship passes between
her and the eastern shore.
If a ship intend to go down in the eastern channel, she must weigh on the flood, and
pass the northern part of the small creek at a cable's length distance, or in 4| fathoms,
and immediately when below the point she should haul over on the eastern shore, to
bring the mark hummock on Ty-cock-tow over the eastern end of Tiger Island,
marked C in the large view, or as it is represented in the smaller view. The water is
deepest about a cable's length off" the eastern mud-bank ; and she may steer with those
marks on, until she open Sawshee Hill clear to the southward of the point of land
(which is the northern one of another river leading to the eastward), and may then
haul over to the westward, steering towards Geefoo, until she bring the hummock on
with the part marked B, after which, proceed as before directed towards Tiger Island.
CANTON RIVER. — SECOND BAR. 407
When hauling to the westward, observe that the flood tide does not set you again to the
northward on the south end of the Small Bar.
When the summit of Sawshee Hill bears N.73°E. and the large pagoda N.34°W.,
there is a hard knotvl, with .3 fathoms water on it at low tide : again/ witli Sawshee
Hill bearing N. 65° E. and the large pagoda N. 33° W., there is another, with 3i fathoms
on it ; these are on the western shore, near the entrance of the creek.
Sawshee Hill bearing S. 07° E., and the hummock on Ty-cock-tow over B, is the
mark for the 3i fathoms knowl to the N.W. of the Small Bar.
From the middle or shoal part of the Small Bar, Sawshee Hill bears S. 74^° E., and
the bar is about twelve hundred yards long.
The channel for ships becomes very narrow abreast a large creek named Haou-Tun second Bar
by the Chinese, and by Europeans, Second Bar Creek ; its entrance is on the ^'■'^^''•
eastern shore, and bears S. 75° E. from the large pagoda. About the northern point of
this creek the passage is rendered still narrower by three small hnouls, which are very
hard, and have not more than 2 or 2^ fathoms on them at low water spring tides ; the
two lowest are about 120 yards apart, and bear from each other S.E. J E. and IN .\\'.^ W ., second Bar.
and the northern one is about 300 yards to the northward of the other two. Between
the latter and the sand to the westward, there is a narrow ciiannel for ships, .not above
a hundred yards wide. It is surprising how the Chinese pilots manage to carry through
it ships of great draught of water, and often indifferently manned, without any serious
accident happening. They, however, make use of numerous boats to buoy off the chan-
nel, and are assisted by many to tow. Ships frequently get aground, and lie in a
dangerous state for a tide, and this very often proceeds from two or three pushing over
together, as there is no time to be lost after the water has risen sufficiently for a ship
drawing 23 or 24 feet to pass over.
When on the lower knowl in a boat, the two pagodas subtended an angle of 30° 27',
and the small pagoda and summit of Sawshee Hill 113° 42'. On the western one of the
two southern knowls, the two pagodas subtended an angle of 37° 16', and tlie small
pagoda and Sawshee Hill 112° 22'. On the upper one, the two pagodas subtended
37° 47', and the small pagoda and Sawshee Hill 108° 1 1'.
The knowls being so close, and the channels so narrow and winding, there is no
mark which a large ship could use to pass this part; therefore, the channel must be
buoyed off before she could attempt it.
The pilots will sometimes carry ships between the knowls and the eastern shore,*
where the ground is soft in some places, but still they must keep very near the former.
From feeling with the lead, the knowls seem to be formed of beds of old oyster sliells
or coral, not liable to alter, although the edge of the sand which approaches them to
the westward may change its form. The rise of tide here is 7 to 8 feet, high water n.iis.
about If or 2 hours on full and change of moon, when the tides are regular ; but they
appear to be very irregular in their strength and duration, and frequently in the 24
hours there will be a long flood and ebb tide, whilst the other two are short and weak.
In the winter, the long tides appear to happen between sun-rising and setting, w hen
the moon has north declination ; and in the night, when in south : the rise and fall on
the neaps is sometimes as much as happens on the springs. The variation in 1810 was
only one-third of a degree easterly at the Second Bar, by the observations of Captain
* The pilot procured at Macao gets a fisherman at the Bocca-tigris to act as an assistant, who, in general, may
be trusted more than the former, being better acquainted with the river from thence to Macao. Thej- commonly
send their boat to sound with a bamboo on the edges of the shoals, and the person in her waves his hat to the
pilot, if the ship be approaching to any place where there is not sufficient depth of water.
408
CANTON RIVER. — FIRST BAR.
Ross ; at Chuen-pee, Mr. Dawson, R.N., made it half a degree westerly, by which
it appears there is little or no variation at present in Canton River.
Boats leavinii,- Chuen-pee should steer N. W. ^ N. until a little above Tiger Island,
keeping near the latter, to avoid the Tawling-saa Sand, then N. by W. to the Second
Bar Creek, the whole distance being about 16 miles. If boats are passing between
the Bocca-tigris and Macao in the night, great care is requisite to avoid the fishing
stakes, when the tide runs strong, as the crew might be lost if a boat struck against
any of them.*
Second Bar
anchorage.
Caution requi-
site in cross-
SECOND BAR ANCHORAGE, where the large European ships were obliged to
moor to complete their cargoes, when bound outward, is in lat. 22°56'N., about 3 or
34 leagues to the northward of the Bocca-tigris. Here the eastern shore is safe to
approach, and the anchorage is about a cable's length oft' it, between the Bar Creek
and anotlier smaller one to the southward.
The bar begins at the creek, and directly fronting the north point of it there are
some knowls of hard sand and gravel, having only 10 or 11 feet on them at low water ;
these form the most dangerous part, the depths in the proper channel upon the bar being
about 3 and 3^ fathoms. The pilots place boats upon the knowls on each side tlie
channel, for ships to pass between them in the deepest water ; but sufficient time should
be given these boats to sound with their bamboos, and take their stations properly ;
for if the pilots are not careful they are liable to ground ships on the bar.t From the
Second Bar, the channel upwards is generally nearest to the eastern shore of tiie river,
until the First Bar is approached, where it again becomes contracted, and requires
great caution.
First Bar. FIRST BAR, lying more than half-way from the Second Bar towards the an-
chorage of Whampoa, is formed by a shoal patch of sand near the eastern shore, and
by a hard bank or reef projecting from the low islands on the opposite side, a little
farther to the westward. To avoid the former, a ship ought to keep about mid-
channel, and when past it she must haul over to the eastern shore, to give a berth to
the hard bank on the west side.
Brunswick
Rock.
THE BRUNSWICK ROCKt
\^ cables' length below the small
quarter of the river's breadth from
byW. about 50 or 60 fathoms, and
with from 10 to 18 feet upon them
the Second Bar pagoda bore S. by
' ~~ N.,
5 E., Whampoa Pagoda W.
S. E. ^ E. easterly, a large house i
N. I W. to N. by E. you are in the
lies a little way above the First Bar, about 1 or
Chop House on the northern shore, and about a
this shore ; the rock extends N. E. by E. and S.W.
half this breadtli, being formed of irregular patches,
at low water spring tides. When upon the rock,
E. I E., Clump of Trees or Chop House S. S. E.
North-west point of Round Island, or Bold Island,
nland N. \ W.; and when this house bears from
line of the rock.
* Which has sometimes been unfortunately experienced.
f Running up in the Anna, with a steady breeze and flood tide in the night, the pilot did not reduce suffi-
cient sail to give the boats time to station themselves properly on the bar ; but they left one of the shoalest
spits in the space between the line of boats stationed on each side, to guide the ship through ; she consequently
ran directly against it about high water, and lay aground until the following tide; we had lOJ feet at low water
under the bow, 3 fathoms under the quarter, and 4| fathoms a little outside in the proper channel.
X The Company's ship Brunswick got upon this rock in 1798, and though lightened by taking out the
guns, stores, and part of her cargo, was so much injured as to make it necessary to go to Bombay for repairs.
CANTON KIVER. — WHAMPOA.
409
The channel through which ships always pass this rock is narrow, for at the dis-
tance of half a cable's length 8. E. by S. from it, there lies another rock, having only
17 feet on it at low water, and between these is the channel. Close along the north
shore there is deep water within Brunswick Rock, where probabli/ the passage is safe,
and nearly as wide as the usual outside channel between the rocks.
From hence, the shipping are seen at a small distance, moored between Danes
Island and Whampoa.
Whampoa
Anchorage.
WHAMPOA ANCHORAGE, in lat. 23'' 6^ N., is formed on the south side by
two high islands, called by Europeans, Danes and Fiencii Islands ; by low overHowed
ground to the northward, this being the eastern part of the island on which the town
of Whampoa is built, and that part close to the ship is generally called Bankshall
Island, This is a very safe harbour, with a moderate tide, and from 5 to (J fathoms
water, soft mud bottom; but there is scarcely room for two large ships to moor
abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping to be moored opposite the
entrance of Junk River, when there are many arrivals. Danes Island is steep to,
except nearly close to the upper low point, where is a rock covered at high water. Bank-
shall Island is also pretty steep ; but a spit projects a little way from its eastern point,
where Junk River is separated from the other branch that passes ^Vhampoa, and they
reunite a little way below Canton. The flood runs up to Whampoa, until 2^ hours,
on full and change of moon.
THE CANTON FACTORIES are on the north side of the river, fronting the Canton
city, and form part of the suburbs; they are distant about 4 leagues to the west-
ward of the anchorage at Whampoa. By mean of a series of observations, I made
them in lat. 23° 7' 10" N., Ion. 1 13° 14' E. of Greenwich, by mean of 5 immersions
and 7 emersions of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter, and 29 miles West of the Grand
Ladrone by chronometers.* Here, provisions and refreshments of all kinds are j)ro-
cured in abundance ; and probably in no part of the world is business transacted with
so much ease and regularity as at Canton. September 1st, 1803, the tide rose on the
ground till 2 hours 40 minutes at Canton, being full moon at 8 hours on tliat day
for Canton time, and the moon was in perigee on the preceding day. The dejith of
the river from Whampoa to the city is only sufficient for vessels of moderate size; but
from Whampoa outward, it will admit ships of great burden. As no record af)pears
of any ship having been lost in this river, except lately the Wyndham on the Bruns-
wick Rock, notwithstanding the numerous large ships which constantly trade here,
it may therefore, probably, be considered the safest river in the world for ships of any
description.
Directions to accompany the Chart of Canton River, from the Anchorage below the
Second Bar to Whampoa Reach:\
SHIPS proceeding up the river in the N. E. Monsoon, or with a weather tide, if Dictions foi^
drawing much water, should be under weigh by the last quarter flood, to save tide ofVamou'""'
River.
The Alfred, Princess Amelia, and other ships, have also grounded on it; and the ship Wyndliam, of Calcutta,
was totally lost upon it in 1815.
* Captain Ross, in his survey, makes the difference of Ion. 27' 13" between them, placmg Canton n Ion.
113' 15' E., and the Grand Ladrone in 1 13^ 43' E. r u c-
f This excellent survey of that part of the river mentioned above, shewing the dangers of the First Bar,
VOL. II. 3 G
A remark
relative to tbe
river.
410 CANTON RIVER, UPPER PART.
across the bar, for the passage between the Knowls being very narrow, they must back
and fill through : if their draught of water be moderate, they may weigh much earlier.
The didiculty in crossing the Second Bar is in ascertaining correctly the two Knowls,
A and B, on each side of which a boat must be placed ; for here no marks are
afforded, excepting such as are too far distant to be of the least utility.
To find the Knowl B, a boat provided with a lead should pull directly out from the
upper point of Second Bar Creek, making allowance for the tide, so as to keep the
boat in a direct line across the river. In crossing the river she will have 4, 4^,
then 31 and 3 fathoms, immediately after which she will cast upon the Knowl
in 2 and 2^ fathoms. From thence to find the Knowl A, she should pull across the
channel in a N. E. direction, so as to fetch above the fishing stakes, and directly in a
line with the first small creek above Second Bar Creek, and in crossing the channel
she will have 3^ fathoms. The fishing stakes are sometimes removed, but by steer-
ing direct for the small creek a boat can hardly fail sounding on the Knowl A,
or should she miss it, let her pull direct in shore from the Knowl B, for the upper
point of Second Bar Creek, until she get a cast of 4 fathoms, then by pulling up along
shore, keeping as nearly as possible at the same distance from it, she will soon sound
on Knowl A, in 2 and 2^ fathoms. It is best to place the boats on the Knowls at the
first of the flood, but by marking the comparative depths of water, a careful officer may
at all times of tide place his boats on these Knowls. The ship must pass between the
boats, taking care to keep tolerably near to the upper boat in passing it, which is the
narrowest and most dangerous part of the bar. After passing the upper boat, the
course inclines very little to the westward of a line parallel to the shore. Crossing the
bar in this manner, you will not have less than 4^ fathoms, at three-quarters flood.
When the large pagoda bears W. N.W. the worst part of the bar is crossed, and when
it bears W. by N. you will be over it ; but the water continues shoal for a little distance
farther, and is frequently the cause of alarm to those who are unacquainted. In pro-
ceeding up the river, after the pagoda bears W. by J\., the ground is soft and loose,
unlike that on the bar, which is in parts hard and stony. The pagoda bearing West
is the mark for anchoring if bound down the river, and waiting for water to cross the
bar. Large ships should not bring it to bear to the northward of West before they
anchor. The channel here begins to widen, but the tail of the Second Bar shoal ex-
tends some distance further up ; — the mark for passing it is the large pagoda just shut
in with the south end of the wall of an old fort, which stands near it ; and in coming
down the river, when the pagoda isobserved just opening to the southward of the wall,
the ship is passing the tail of the sand and must keep towards the east shore. Large
boats in watering should be careful, if they do not leave the watering place near the
pagoda before the ebb makes, not to ground on that part o( the shoal, which is dry at
low water, as at X. This may be avoided, making allowance for the tide, by keeping
right across the river until nearly half over, before they steer direct for the shipping
below the bar. After passing above the Second Bar shoal, the river is clear from side
to side, but the deepest water is near the east shore, and ships with a leading wind
generally keep it close aboard until they reach the First Bar. Whampoa pagoda
Second Bar, and Brunswick Rock, with marks to avoid them, was executed in 1816, by Captains Newell and
Auber, then officers in the Company's service. Tlie Chart vi'as founded on tlie measurement of several base
lines, made witli great accuracy. The soundings were taken at low water spring tides, the perpendicular rise of
the tides being then 10 feet. All these surveys of the Coast of China, Canton River, and dangers in the China
Sea, have been engraved at the expense of the East-India Company for the benefit of navigation, and may be
procured, at their booksellers', Messrs. Allen and Co.
411
observed just on with the northernmost clump or hill on Danes Island, appearing as at
No. 1, sketch A,* shews the approach to the lower shoal of the First Bar, you must
then haul out into the middle of tiie river to avoid it, as it projects a little distance from
the starboard shore, and is nearly opposite a chop iiouse, surrounded with a cluster of
trees. The marks for the shoalest part of the lower shoal are, the clump of trees sur-
rounding the chop house just in the gap of Saddle Hill, and \\'hampoa pagoda in the
gap on Danes Island, and appearing as at No. 2, sketch A : on this part tiiere is only
12 feet at low water. The mark to clear this shoal is Whampoa pagoda kept on the
declivity of the large hill on Danes Island, as at No. 3, sketch A. When the ciiop house
bears S. S.W. haul over to the starboard shore to avoid the upper shoal of Fii.st Bar :
the mark for leading into the channel clear of this shoal is the small Pagoda near the
Second Bai-, kept open to the eastward of the clump of trees surrounding the chop
house. The shoal lies nearly in the middle of the river, and has 3 fathoms close to it at
low water. The channel is deep, close in shore, and being narrow, you must back
and fill through, except there be a leading wind. Ships bound down the river fre-
quently warp over the tlood through this passage. The shore towards the First Bar
point must be kept close aboard, until Whampoa pagoda is seen clear open of all the
land on the opposite or south shore, right up ; then you may haul over w ithout fear of
the upper end of the shoal, which is dry at low' water, and steer for the passage to clear
the Brunswick Rock, by keeping the north shore pagoda on with the left declivity of
Moffat Hill, and appearing as at No. 4, sketch B. This mark will carry you between
Brunswick Rock and a small stone or rock, lying to the southward aiid eastward
of it, which has 17 feet on it at low water. The north shore pagoda stands on the
starboard side of the river at the upper part of the reach, and will be easily discerned
over Mofliit Hill. Brunswick Rock extends considerably, with gaps of uneven sound-
ings ; the marks for the shoalest part are, the North shore pagoda on with the right
declivity of Moffat Hill, appearing as at No. 5, sketch B, and a large conspicuous house
which stands on the north shore to the right hand side of Hill V. : when this house is
on with Hill No. VI. you will be clear of all danger, and then steer for W hampoa
Reach, keeping near to the starboard shore. The Hills lY., V., VI., are easily dis-
cerned in coming up or down the river: the two marked IV., V., are much smaller
than the others, and appear of a dusky red colour. The Hill No. VI. is almost covered
with trees. f The same marks must be observed in coming down the river to avoid
these dangers, and in this case it will be easily perceived, that the large house on the
north shore on with Hill No. VI. indicates the approach to Brunswick Rock, as the
same house on with Hill No. VI. does when proceeding up the river.
Entering Whampoa Reach, the river is clear on both sides, although the south shore,
or that of Danes Island, is generally preferred ; but care should be taken not to anchor
just above Danes Island pagoda, as several ships have lost their anchors in this place.
The Chinese fishermen describe it as a shoal of rocks, covered by a body of sand.
There are 7 and 7^ fathoms in this place at low water. The cross bearings for it are,
the north shore pagoda N. by E. f E., Danes Island pagoda S. S E. f E., Tree pagoda
W. by N. f N.
In proceeding up or down the river, care must be taken to give a wide berth to a
spit of sand in the middle of the entrance of Junk River, on which there are only Oand
* See double line and views in my Ciiart of Canton River, where marks are delineated, and directions given
for avoiding all the dangers in this locality.
f Views of these hills, by Captain Moffat, with marks for avoiding Brunswick Rock, have been given in my
Chart of Canton River.
3 (i 2
412 CHINA, SOUTH COAST,
10 feet at low water, spring tides. There are 4, 5, and fathoms within a short dis-
tance of this shoal; the cross bearings are, Tree pagoda W. N.W., north shore pagoda
N. E. The mark for clearing it is the south extremity of the liills on the northern
side the river at the npper end of the reach, clear open of all the land of Whampoa
Island. The next danger is a cluster of rocks near the east point of the entrance of
French River, on which the Henry Addington struck in 1814; they are covered at
half-flood, and there are 4^ and 5 fathoms close to them. The mark for clearing these
rocks is a remarkably round hill at the upper part of the reach, kept well open of French
Island : this hill is very conspicuous, and is the northernmost of the hills on the south
shoie. The entrance of French River is shoal, and should not be approached at half-
ebb nearer than pointed out by this mark. After passing French River, the water
deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms, and there are 4 and 4^ fathoms close to the south shore ;
but you must be careful not to moor near a bank formed over the wreck of a French
ship, burnt to the water's edge 60 years ago, which has 5 and 6 fathoms close to it, and
only 16 and 17 feet over it at low water. Light ships may swing over it, but as they
deepen by taking in cargo, they will hang upon it, which the Earl Spencer did in 1814 ;
and some anchors have been lost by hooking this wreck. The bearings for it are Tree
pagoda N. by E., Whampoa pagoda N.VV. ^ N.*
CHINA, SOUTH COAST, FROM THE LEMA
CHANNEL TO AMOY.f
Nine Pin NINE PIN ROCK, SO named from its form, lying to the N. N. Eastward of the
^°"'- entrance to Lema Channel, is in lat. 22° 16^-' N., Ion. 114° 22' E., distant 6 miles from
VVaglan ; a short distance to the westward of the rock there are two small but high
islands, named Wo-chow ; and about a mile N.W. of the Nine Pin there is a small
rock, which at high tide is nearly covered. Between the islands and the shore Cap-
tain Ross passed twice, and had not less than 15 fathoms water; and once on the
outside, he had not less than 16 and 17 fathoms.
TAM-TOO ISLAND is distant about 3| miles N. by W. of Waglan, and Similes
to the westward of the Wo-chow Islands, and its south point makes like a peak, with
Ta-thong- stecp clifis ou its eastern side; this point forms the eastern side of the Ta-thong-
moon Passage. ^^^^^^ Passage ; the wcstem side being formed by the east side of Hong-kong Island,
close to which, and about 1^ miles to the northward of the two green islands, lie two
* The recent operations of H. M. Ships at Canton will have given opportunities for obtaining a much better
knowledge of this river than we have hitherto possessed, and much valuable information respecting its present
many unknown channels will be furnished by the surveying officers attached to the squadron, but none of that
information has yet reached us. Our ships have on several occasions proceeded up to the very walls of
Canton and the channels, above the First Bar, to the southward of Danes Island ; those on both sides of French
Island and that by Junk River on the north side of Whampoa Island, besides several others, have been found
navigable.
t Most of the positions along this part of the coast are uncertain.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. 413
small rocky islands: between these and the soiilli point of Tam-too there is a rock
above water, with 12 fathoms near it. If you wish to proceed up to the Ta-thong-
raoon Passage from the eastward, steer to the southward of the Wo-chow Islands, then
towards the south point of Tam-too, and round it about a quarter of a mile, or in mid-
channel between it and the rock, distant \^ miles to the westward : from hence steer
about N. by VV. to pass between a blufi" point on Hong-kong or the western shore, and
a rock above water, which is situated near an island on the eastern shore, and distant
from the bluff point one mile. In this route you will have 9 or 10 fathoms, and will
perceive a small opening- or passage to the eastward, named by the Chinese Fotow-
moon, through which Captain Alves passed.
If you are merely seeking shelter from a gale, secure anchorage will be found a little
to the northward of the bluff point, in a bay or harbour extending to tlie northward,
where you may anchor in 5 or G fatlioms. If proceeding towards Canton Hiver, con-
tinue your course beyond the bluff point, to a narrow pass which you will perceive
about 1^ miles to the N.W.; this narrow channel, called Ly-ee-moon, is formed be- Ly-ee-moon
tween a point of the coast and the N. E. point of Hong-kong ; both points are high '^''*""^'-
and steep, and the passage is not quite half a mile broad, with 25 fathoms water in
mid-channel. It is rather too narrow for large ships, unless with a fair wind, when
they would be through in a few minutes ; standing to the westward, the south side, or
Hong-Kong rocky shore, is perceived ; and to the north-westward the land forms a
deep bay, in which is situated the town of Cow-loon. Your course is along the Hong-
Kong shore, leaving a large w hite rock to the northward : the depth will decrease fast,
after getting through the narrows, to 8 or fathoms. Do not pass very near the north
point of Hong-Kong, m hich bears about S. by W . from the white rock, as there are
some sunken rocks lying about H cables' length off the shore. The depths between sunken Rocks.
the white rock and the point are from 7 fathoms near the former, increasing to 10 near
the latter. You may anchor hereabout in perfect security against all winds, and no
doubt may procure refreshments from the town of Cow-loon, which appears populous.
If bound to the westward, your course becomes more south-westerly, and should be
in mid-channel between the southern shore and a point of land, which is tiie western
one of Cow-loon Bay : do not go nearest to the small woody islet which will be seen
on the southern shore, as the water is shoal about it, but keep in mid-channel, or
nearest to the northern shore, which hereabout has a very red appearance, and the
depth will be 7 and 8 fathoms. On tiie S.W. point of this red-looking land there is
a little temple and a sandy beach; do not pass the point close, but keep 1^ cables'
length off, as a flat commences near the point, and extends nearly to Won-clum-chow,
which is 2 miles to the N.W. Won-chun-chow is a remarkable island, of a dark red
and barren appearance, to the northward of which the piratical fleet, used to reht, and
where they received supplies of ammunition and stores in abundance from Canton and
Macao. Your course is still westerly, in or 7 fatlioms, until nearly between AVon-
chun-chow and the Hong-Kong shore, wliich is hi-h land ; when, if in a large ship,
you should haul to the northward, to pass about half a mile from tiie western point of
Won-chun-chow, and from tiience towards a point of land about 2 niiles to tiie west-
ward. In this route you will have or 7 fatlioms water, and avoid a nuul flat with
3f fathoms on it at low water, which extends about U miles from the two small
green islands near the N.W. point of Hong-Konff. When these islands are to the
S. byE., the depth decreases very suddenly to 10 fathoms, and you may then pro-
ceed to the southward between Lamma and' the islands ofl' the east side of Lantoa,
decreasing your depth to 5 fathoms ; or you may, with a fair wind and small ship.
414 CHINA, SOUTH COAST.— MIRS BAY.
oQ round the north point of Lantoa, through the Cap-sing-moon Passage, and from
thence along the northern shore, leaving the Brothers, Saw-chow, and Ton-koo to
the southward, then between Lintin and Fan-sy-ack rocks, into the channel leading
up the river.
MirsBay. MIRS BAY, Called TY-PO-HOY by the Chinese (the S. E. point), is 10 miles
to the W.N.W. of the small island named Single Island by Mr. Dalrymple ; and this
point is in lat. 22° 27' N., Ion. 114° 30' E. The bay at the entrance is 5^ miles wide,
but a large black rock above water, named Gow-tow-pyah, and some other rocks under
water to the S.W. of the former, make the entrance for ships about 3 miles wide be-
tween the eastern shore and the black rocks.
In Mirs Bay a ship will find good anchorage and shelter from all winds, excepting
those from about S. S.W. to South. The depth outside the bay is generally 13 fathoms,
decreasing gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms about 5 miles within the entrance. A ship
should keep near the eastern side, and when about 3 miles in, or further, may anchor
in 8 or 9 fathoms, about half a mile off the shore. In passing along the eastern shore,
Fiesh water, you wiU perceive a remarkable water-course on the high land, and find plenty of good
fresh water in the second small bay from the S. E. point. Well within the bay, there
is an island named Peng-chow, of green appearance, having steep cliffs about its south-
ern part ; between this island and the northern shore. Captain Ross found 7 fathoms
water on mud bottom, affording good anchorage when blowing hard from south-
ward ; if you intend to anchor hereabout, keep from the N. E. point of Peng-chow,
it being rocky to the distance of H cables' length. There are a few small villages in
the bay, one of which is named Namo, and another Suilo-shaw, from whence nume-
rous boats came off with people to look at the ships : all over the inner part of Mirs
Tides. Bay there are many single fishing stakes in 9 and 10 fathoms. High water at 9 hours
Go«-tow- on full and change of moon. Gow-tow-pyah* is a large black rock above water,
py''- at the entrance, and about mid-channel between the east and west sides of Mirs
Bay; a short distance to the S.W. of the black rock there are other rocks that dry
at low tifie, and that generally have breakers on them ; between these latter rocks
and the western shore tiiere is a channel 1| miles wide, having 10 fathoms water in
it. From Gow-tow-pyah, towards the Nine Pin Rock, the western shore is generally
high, and of a craggy appearance, but apparently free of danger.
As the ebb tide runs from Mirs Bay along the western shore, a ship with a S.W.
wind will work down speedily by keeping near it, and passing between the Wo-chow
Islands and Tam-too; but as soon as the Lema Channel is open, she will meet the
strong and constant set to the eastward. The Antelope was two days, in August,
1807, endeavouring to get into the Lema Channel from eastward, and rounded Waglan
close each time ; but finding a continued strong set to the eastward, was obliged
to beat through between Wo-chow and the S. E. point of Hong-Kong.
During the month of August and part of September, if a ship get to the eastward of
the Lemas she will find it very difficult to proceed along shore to the westward,
if the wind is from that quarter; she ought, therefore, either to stand off to the
southward again two or three days, if near the full or change of moon, when
bad weather may be apprehended ; or anchor in Mirs or Harlem Bay for an east-
erly wind, which in these months usually happens every few days, close in with
the coast.
* Bullock's Head Rock, or Islet.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST.— TY-POONG HARBOUR.
415
CHUENG-CHOVV, or SINGLE ISLAND, in lat. 22° 25' N., Ion. 114° 40' East, chueng.chow.
is small and high, and is the southernmost of three islands which front the peninsula
that separates Mirs Bay from Ty-poon^ Harbour. From Chueng-chow tlie north end
of Great Lema bears S.W., distant 28 miles; Pedra Branca E. by S., distant about
26 miles; and Mendoza Island N. E. by E. 11| miles : there are 10 and 17 fathoms
water to the southward and westward of the island, about a mile distant : here, in
August and September, was observed a constant set of the current of 1^ and 2 knots
per hour to the eastward, particularly when the wind was westerly. About H miles
to the northward of Chueng-chow there is a narrow and barren-looking island, ex-
tending in a N. E. and S.W. direction about If miles, and it is the middle island oi Middle island.
this group. On the northern side of it there are a few fishing huts, and in the channel
between it and Chueng-chow there are 1(3 and 17 fathoms water; but it is rendered
unsafe by a rock, having but 2 fathoms water on it, di.stant to the N. N. E. of Chueng-
chow about a little more than a mile. To the northward of Middle Island, and
separated from it by a narrow channel, is the largest island of the three which
form the group, named Toonee-ang ; it is the highest near the western end, where
is a small fishing village, the station of a petty mandarin ; off the N. W. end of the
island lie three rocky islets, and a bed of rocks covered in high tides, having generally
breakers ; between these rocks and the main there is a channel a mile in breadth, with
13 and 14 fathoms water. The highest part of Toonee-ang is in lat. 22° 28' 10* N.,
Ion. 114° 38' E. About two-thirds of a mile N. E. of Chueng-chow lies Acoong-
chow, a high white rock, with deep water near it, to the southward and eastward ; and
half a mile northward of it there is a sunken rock, covered only with 2 fathoms water.
Toonee-aiig
Island.
Acoong-chow.
TWO SUNKEN ROCKS lie to the N. E. of Toonee-ang Island, and being only
visible at low spring tides, are very dangerous, the soundings aflording no guide when Dangerous
near them, and unless with a swell they shew no breakers. From the largest rock, sunken Rocks.
Acoong-chow, the white rock near Chueng-chow bore S. 8° W., distant 5f miles ; the
centre of Chueng-chow S. 11° W.; the highest part or peak of Toonee-ang Island
S. 47° W. ; the gap in the Island Tsincoe N. 81° E., distant 8^^ miles ; the centre of
Mendoza Island East, and distant from its west end 1^ miles ; Pyramid Point on
Loo-kaup Island N. 33° W., distant 3|^ miles. About a quarter of a mile to the west-
ward of the large rock there is a small one never visible; they have 9 and 10 fathoms
water over a muddy bottom close around them.
LOO-KAUP ISLAND lies about 2 miles off the N. E. point of tlie peninsula Loo-kaup
which forms the west side of Mirs Bay ; it is the largest and the southernuiost island ^'''''"''"
of the group, which extends from it to the northward, and sheltered by Ty-poong outer
harbour to the eastward. Its south point, called Pyramid Point on account of the
pyramidal rocks near it, bears from Acoong-chow or White Rock N. f W. 9 miles,
and from the small island off the west side of Mendoza Island W. by N. ^ N. To the
eastward of Loo-kaup there are two small islands, and on the western side four, with
some rocks above water; near which no danger appears but what is visible; close to
the south point of Loo-kaup there are 9 and 10 fathoms water. To the westward of Passage toUie
tlie latter island there is a safe passage, 2 miles in breadth, having 9 and 10 fathoms bgwTy.poOTg
water, leading to I'y-poong Harbour. iiarbour.
TY-POONG HARBOUR, named from the small city on its northern shore, is Ty-poong
situated on the west side of Bias Bay, about (J miles westward uf Loo-kaup ; and
416
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — TY-POONG HARBOUR.
Directions to
sail into it.
Tides.
Chuen-poon-
chow.
Loo-kaup-sye.
although rather contracted, it is capable of aflfording good shelter for small ships,
about \w miles within the entrance; but beyond that distance it is shoal, only fit
for boats.
If you intend to proceed into Ty-poong Harbour, and are near Chueng-chow, or
Acoong-chow, pass tlie latter to the eastward at any convenient distance, steering to
N. N.W. to pass the east point of Toonee-ang ; remembering that about half a mile
North of Acoong-chow there is a rock with 2 fathoms water on it, and N. f E, 5f
miles from the same island lie two sunken rocks; therefore, your course must be so
directed, that when passing the east end of Toonee-ang, you may have Acoong-chow
to bear South, and nothing to the westward of that bearing. The sunken rocks are
2f miles to the N. E. of the east point of Toonee-ang, and when you have the summit
of Mendoza Island to the southward of East, you are to the northward of them ; con-
tinue your course between Loo-kaup and the western shore, which is high land, and
when between them you will perceive the western shore trend more to the westward
about 4 miles, to a rocky point of laud which forms the southern side the entrance to
Ty-poong : between this rocky jjoint and the one opposite Pyramid Point are several
sandy beaches, and houses on the western shore. Your course is towards the south point
of the entrance, carrying from 10 to 8^ and 7 fathoms water ; the space between Loo-
kaup and the western shore is free of danger, having 7 and 8 fathoms water: you must
not round the southern side of the harbour farther ofl' than three-quarters of a mile,
but as much within that distance as you think proper, there being a reef of rocks
extending oft' the northern shore, opposite the south point. You will have 5 and 6
fathoms in rounding the point, after which keep about half a mile off" the western
shore until you have got in about H miles, and arrived abreast of a bay, with a sandy
beach, and large village a little way in shore. The western extreme of this bay is a
high bluft' point, from which the land turns more to the southward, and forms the
bottom of the harbour ; you must not go to the westward of this point, but anchor
about half a mile to the. northward of it, in 4 fathoms, sand and mud. The Antelope
anchored in 5 fathoms, with Pyramid Point on Loo-kaup bearing E. ^ S., and the
city of Ty-poong N.W., distant off" the southern shore about three-quarters of a mile ;
she did not communicate with the city, but no doubt, like all other places on the
coast, a small present accompanying an application to the mandarin will insure your
procuring refreshments.
In the space between Loo-kaup Island and Ty-poong Harbour, particularly near the
latter, there are many single fishing stakes, some of which, at high water, are not more
than 3 feet above the surface ; therefore, care should be taken not to run them down :
the tide is not strong, but, from the numerous little channels and islands, it is very
irregular in its course, and rises 6 or 8 feet. In the Bay or Outer Harbour of
Ty-poong, about 4 miles to the westward of Loo-kaup, there is good anchorage in
7 or 8 fathoms, mud, where a large ship will be completely sheltered from southerh'^
winds ; and it is very little exposed to any winds except those which blow at E. or
E. S. E., which must force in a considerable swell.
To the N.N.E. of Loo-kaup, at a short distance, and nearly East from Ty-poong
Harbour, lies Chuen-poon-chow, a three-peaked remarkable rock; from Ty-poong
Harbour you may pass on either side this rock in 7 and 8 fathoms, if you wish to pro-
ceed to the eastward into another bay or harbour.
To the northward of Lo-kaup Island lies Loo-kaup-sye,* a small island
channel between them is safe,
* Sye, i. e. little.
there being no dangers but what are visible ;
and the
close off"
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — HARLEM BAY. 417
tlie west end of Loo-kaup-sye, there is a small patch of rocks above water, with a large
single one on it : on the north side the island there are fishing huts.
MENDOZA ISLAND, in lat. 22° .31'N., Ion. 114° 51' E., bearing from Pedra Mendoza
Branca N.W. by W., distant 19 miles, is high, and steep to, having 12 or 14 fathoms ^''^'*-
water around ; and very close to its west end there is a small island, which cannot
be distinguished from the larger, when to the westward of them ; Mcndoza Island is
not inhabited. About a mile northward of Mendoza Island lies Tsincoe Island, Tsincoe.
which is small, but very remarkable, from having a gap nearly in the centre ; there is
no danger near this island, there being 12 fathoms water in the channel between it
and Mendoza Island, and 9 fathoms to the northward. Middle Rocks, bearing Middle Rock?
nearly West from the extreme of Fokai Point, are considerably above the sea level,
with deep water round them, and no hidden danger : about a mile IV. by E. ^ E. from
these rocks, and near the shore, lies Fisherman Island, which is small, having a rocky
reef between it and the shore. Fokai Point, bearing N. 52° E. from Mendoza Island, Fokai Pmnt
distant 2i miles, is the extremity of a high promontory ; the land is high near the
point, and from its being connected with the adjoining high land by a low narrow
isthmus, has the appearance of an island when viewed from eastward or westward.
On the first hill from the extreme point there is a fort, named Ty-sino, or Great Ty-singFort.
Star ; there are several pieces of cannon mounted on it, but, like most of the forts on
this coast, it appears to be in a ruinous state.
HARLEM BAY, called PING-HOI by the Chinese, is formed to the westward Hariem Bay.
of the hiiih part of Fokai, and to the northward of Mendoza, and the other small <"■ ''"'e-'i<"-
islands; it cannot be considered a safe place for a ship to ride during a Ty-foong, when
the winds are liable to shift suddenly to diflferent points of the compass, but atlbrds
tolerable shelter from a N.E. or Easterly gale. The Antelope, riding in 5 fathoms, as
close as a ship could go, when blowing a gale from East, not only experienced strong
^usts of wind from over the low isthmus, but a heavy sea tumbling in round Fokai
Point, and acting across the wind, made her roll very deep, and obliged Captain Ross
to weigh and run for another anchorage. He therefore recommends to navigators,
when a Ty-foong is apprehended, not to seek shelter in Harlem Bay, but to proceed
about 9 or 10 miles more westerly, to a large and safe harbour, situated in the place
assigned to Bias Bay, which will be hereafter described.
Ofl" the western point of Harlem Bay are some rocks above water, one of which is
very conspicuous, and has a white appearance, from which circumstance the point bears
the name of White Rock Point.
If you are coming from the eastward and bound for Harlem Bay, round Fokai
Point in 1.3 or 14 fathoms, about a quarter of a mile ofl^", and after rounding the point,
either haul up along the eastern shore, or pass between it and Middle Rocks, carrying
7 and 8 fathoms water through, or pass between Middle Rocks and Tsincoe Island,
carrying 10 and 1 1 fathoms : if the wind is easterly, it will perhaps be best in a small
ship to adopt the first-mentioned passage, as she will fetch the anchorage without
tacking ; but in a large ship, go to the westward of the Middle Rocks, although you
should have to make a tack, as in this channel you will be tar enough from the high
land to avoid the variable flaws of wind, and tlie disagreeable conse(juences that might
arise from being baflled in a narrow channel. If you proceed to the eastward of the
Middle Rocks, remember that about North from them, and ^^■est from Fislierman
Island about a third of a mile, there is a sniall roclcy putcli, with 4 fathoms on it at
VOL. II. 3 H
418 CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — BIAS BAY.
low water. The bearings at the anchorage in Harlem Bay, in 5 fathoms, were, a small
pagoda on a little hill above the circular fort E. byS. ^S., Fisherman Island S. by
E. ^ E., about a mile distant, Middle Rocks South nearly 2 miles, Tsincoe Island
S.byVV.|W.*
Close to where the low isthmus joins the high land of Fokai Point, there is a creek ;
it is very shoal, and almost dry about the entrance at low water, although large mer-
chant vessels and war boats are sometimes laid up in the creek. From the summit of
Tsincoe Island, a city is visible a short distance inland, said to be Ping-hoi, and it is
stated that tiie creek goes up near to it : on the western side of Fokai Point there is a
Fokai Point, village, which no doubt could furnish refreshments if wanted. Fokai Point is in lat.
22°33'N., Ion. 1 14° 53' E., distant about 20 miles N. W. i N. from Pedra Branca.
The fleet of European ships touched at this bay December 2Bth, 1804, on their passage
from England round Australia to Canton River.
About a mile due West of White Rock Point, the western point of Harbour Bay, is
Woong-mow Island, with a rock above water off its S. E. end, and another off its
north end. Between Woong-mow Island and Pyramid Point to the westward there
Bias Bay. IS ail eutraucc of 3 miles wide leading into a deep and safe harbour, named Bias
Bay by Europeans, and Ty-lo-so by the Chinese: it extends northward about 9 miles
from Woong-mow, and is 4^ miles broad, formed by high land on the northern and
eastern sides, and having numerous small islands on the western, which divide it from
Ty-poong Harbour : the depth is 10 fatlioms at the entrance, gradually decreasing as
you run up to the northward, or haul towards the eastern shore.
Directions for If in coming froiTi the eastward you intend to enter Bias Bay, pass round Mendoza
|omg into Bias Island at a mile distance, and from the western part of the island steer N.W. by W.,
orW.N.W., for the opening between Pyramid Point and Woong-mow ; as before
stated, there is a large rock above water a little to the S. E. of Woong-mow. From
Mendoza Island to the entrance of Bias Bay, the depth will be from 13 to 10 and
9^ fathoms, on a muddy bottom ; if the wind will not allow you to steer for the entrance,
and if it should become necessary to turn, remember, there are two sunken rocks
7| miles West from Mendoza Island ; therefore, when standing in that direction, do
not go farther West than to bring Woong-mow N. ^ E. until you have brought Tsin-
coe Island to the southward of East ; another mark is, not to bring Acoong-chow
Rock to the southward of S. by W. ^W. when you are standing to the westward;
these sunken rocks are the only dangers requiring caution. Having arrived between
Woong-mow and Pyramid Point, if the wind is easterly, pass nearest to the former
in 9 fathoms water, and from thence steer North : you will then perceive a small island,
called Sam-coke, near the eastern shore, about 2| miles above Woong-mow ; its sur-
face much covered with long grass and detached black rocks. Between it and
Woong-mow, but nearest to the latter, there is a small rock even with the surface at
high tide, and the ground is not clear close round the rock. Proceeding up the har-
bour, you have regular soundings, from 9 fathoms decreasing gradually, and will
observe several sandy beaches on the east side, and the remarkable rock named
* In 1810 Captain Wainwriglit, in H.M.S. Chiffone, rode out an easterly gale in Harlem Bay, and was of
opinion that a rock lay in the passage between Mendoza Island and Middle Rocks, as a high breaker was seen
in that direction at times, but it could not be found by the boats. Captain Ross also searched for it, and worked
about that part in the vessel, and had never less than 10 or 11 fathoms water ; he also made inquiries of the
numerous fishermen who are always employed about that spot, but none of them knew of any rock being there ;
it is therefore probable, that the breaker proceeded from the ebb tide running out of Bias Harbour, between
jMendoza Island and Tsincoe, which meets the strong current that generally runs to the westward along the
coast, when the wind blows from the eastward.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. HONG-HAI BAY. 419
Chueng-poon-chow to the westward, which lies in the passage leading towards Ty-
poong Harbour : continue your course above 8am-coke Island, and the point that is
about 1^ miles to the northward of it, after which yon may anchor anywhere between
this last-mentioned point and two small green islands, called Tsang-chow, situated to
the nortiiward near the shore. You Mill find .5^ fathoms or 5 fatlioms, mud, a good
berth, about 1^ miles oft' tiie eastern side of the bay, where you are land-locked, and
distant 4i miles above Woong-mow, bearing S. or S. ^ E. On the eastern shore there are
several populous villages, where no doubt refreshments can be obtained. If the wind is
unfavourable for making a direct course up the harbour, you may turn up, there being
no danger, gradually decreasing the depth when standing to the eastward, and in-
creasing it when standing to the West towards the islands. There are numbers of
stages erected about the harbour, consisting of two large spars driven into the
ground about 10 feet asunder, having a winch on them with which the fishermen heave
up their nets ; be careful and not run them down, as, besides distressing the owner,
they are strong enough to injure your copper and sheathing.
TSANG-CHOW, or GREEN ISLANDS, are 8| miles above Woong-mow ; in Tsang.ci.ow.
the narrow channel to the eastward of them there are only 2 fathoms water ; to the
westward of them there are 5 fathoms, to the northward 3i and 3 fathoms in the
middle, decreasing to either shore ; this appears to be an excellent place for a small
ship to repair damages. On the northern shore of the inlet, about .3 miles up, is the
town or city of Fan-lo-kong, which is the residence of a mandarin of some rank,
perhaps the third or fourth order.*
About 4 miles to the W. N.W. of the two small Islands Tsang-chow there is a
tall pagoda on a small green island, near the northern shore.
HONG-HAI BAY, about 6 leagues to the N. Eastward of Fokai Point, is exten- Hong-iwi Bay.
sive ; but in tlie upper part the water shoals to 3 or 4 fathoms, and it is entirely open to
S.W.and South winds. There are several islands in this bay, the largest of v\hich, Hong-
hai, lies in the middle of it; the town of this name and the large town of Ty-sammee
are on the east side, where there is a harbour for salt junks, with 2 fathoms water on
the bar, at the upper part. There are two sharp rocky islets, named Toong-teng and Adjacem^^^^^
Sy-teng, at the entrance of the bay, 1^ miles N. N.E. and S. S.W.ofeach other, and ,4^/' "'"
about miles S.W. of them lies a icliite rocA;-t called Pauk Pyah by the Chinese, tlat
at top, and of moderate height, which bears East from Fokai Point 7f miles; and
If miles S.S.W. of it, there is a sunken rock shewing only breakers in a high sea,
with 13 fathoms water close to it; and breakers were seen a little way to the North
and N. E. of Toong-teng and Sy-teng, when the sea ran high. The passage between
Fokai Point and these rocks is safe, with 12 and 13 fathoms water, and 10 or 11
* The Antelope procured a large supply of poultrj-, some bullocks, vegetables. Sec, at this place, through
the interpreter, all of which he no doubt procured at a cheap rate. Europeans must, however, always lay
their account at paying the Canton Compradore's price, if they employ a Chinese to purchase for thcni. as they
seem to think themselves bound to prevent your getting it cheaper, and althougii tiiey do not benelit them-
selves, will instruct the seller as to the price he should demand, satisfied that he has made you pay so much of
your money to one of his countrymen.
This remark was made by Capt. Ross, who did not land himself at this place, and it is chiefly from the accu-
rate survey of the Soutli Coast of China, by this able oflicer, and his coadjutor, Capt. .^laughan, that the fore-
going instructions have been given to navigators.
t This rock has sometimes been mistaken for Pedra Branca, but it bears from the latter N. 21J-°W., distant
15^ miles.
3 H 2
420
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — TY-SAMMEE INLET.
Ty-Sammee
Inlet,
fathoms between them and the two rocky islets mentioned above ; it shoals to
fathoms close to liong-hai Island. If obliged to pass in shore, either go to the north-
ward of the White Rock, or at least three miles to the southward.
PedraBranca. TY-SING-CH AM, Or PEDRA BRANCA, in lat. 22° 19J' N., Ion. 115° 7f' E.,
bearing from the Fokai Point S. E. ^ S., distant 19 miles, or 49 miles eastward of the
east end of Great Lema,* fronts the western part of Hong-hai Bay, being about
5 leagues to the S. S. Eastward of the other white rock, at the entrance of that
bay. When bearing North, it appears separated into two rocks, and the summit
is of a white colour; it is bold to approach, having 20 fathoms close to the outside,
and 19 or 18 fathoms on the north side, decreasing to 13 fathoms near the other white
rock mentioned above, in the channel between them, which is wide and safe. The
depths increase regularly in the offing, to 40 fathoms about 10 or 11 leagues to the
southward of Pedra Branca.
TY-SAMMEE INLET, in lat. 22° 46' N., distant 10 leagues about N. N. E.
from Pedra Branca, is formed on the western side the high land of Kin-ngao West
Point : the Antelope anchored in 5 fathoms at this place, close to a sandy point on
the starboard side abreast the town ; the anchorage was very confined, and the
entrance shoal some distance off, having only 3^ fathoms at high water; a reef of
rocks extends also nearly two miles to the westward, ofl" the southward side of the
entrance.
and coast. Kiu-ngoa West Point forms the eastern outer entrance point of Hong-hai Bay ;
fronting it to the south eastward there are three islands, with rocks near them ; the
depths a little way outside these islands are 10 and 11 fathoms, and they should not
be approached under the latter depths. The coast in some places near the sea is low
and sandy, but betwixt Mirs Bay and this place the country inland is generally high,
with many hills, of similar appearance to each other. Mostly all the hills and islands
on the coast have a steep, rocky, and sterile appearance, although some of them are
crowned with verdure.
sha.iong-tow. SHA-LONG-TOW, or Kin-ngao East Point, in lat. 22° 39' N., Ion. 115° 35' E.,
forming the western extremity of Hie-che-tchin Bay, is very remarkable, of moderate
height, composed of red sand, with many rugged rocks scattered over it. Tiie point
has two islets and a reef oft' it, with 13 fathoms within a mile of the outer islet. At a
little distance on the western side the point is a small battery, many of which are seen
along this coast, no doubt intended for the protection of the fishing boats against
the pirates. To the westward of Sha-long-tow the land is mountainous, forming
several bays, with beaches, and extends U miles about W. by N. to Kin-ngao West
Point, which is high and bluff". About 5 miles W. by S. of Sha-long-tow Point there
is a cluster of rocks above water, and about 3 miles N.W. of these lies another cluster:
close around the first cluster 10 fathoms water was found on a mud bottom, but
several other rocks are detached between them and the shore, rendering the pas-
sage unsafe between the two clusters of rocks. If proceeding from this point to the
westward in the night, by preserving 16 fathoms water, you will pass between Pauk
Pyah and Pedra Branca in mid-channel: the latter bears from Sha-long-tow S. W.
i W., distant 32^ miles. *
* By Capt. Ross, in his survey of this coast, who determined its situation by a series of triangles from Macao,
together with repeated measurements by good chronometers.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST.— HIE-CHE-TCHIN BAY. 421
HIE-CHE-TCHIN BAY, or KHEE-SEAK BAY, formed bj- Sha-long-tow Hie-che.tchin
Point on the We.st, and by Teng-mee on tlie East, e.xtends a considerable way ^^^
inland to the northward, with depths of 7 to 5 and (J fathoms, and 3 or 3^ fathoms at
the upper part. It affords shelter from westerly and nortlierly winds, and from the
North-east Monsoon ; but is exposed to south-easterly and southerly winds. Khee-
seak City lies a little inland, about 5 miles within the east point of the bay, called
Teng-mee by the fishermen, and tliis point is fronted by two remarkable wliite rocks ;
the first, called Toong-cat, lies to the S. S. E. about a mile oft', and Sy-cat or Khee-
seak, the other rock, lies about 3 miles to the S. Westward, having 11 and 12 fathoms
water between them. The Investigator passed between Toong-cat and a reef which
projects from the shore in 10 fathoms water.
Teng-mee, in lat. 22° 45' N., Ion. 115° 50' E., is a high point of land, bearing Teng-mee.
E. N. E. from Shah-long-tow, distant 15 miles, and forming the eastern point of the
Great Bay of Hie-che-tchin. On the west side of this bay, about 4| miles N. E. by
N. of Sha-long-tow, is the remarkable little rocky island of Kimsue or Kemsue,
between whicli and the land to the westward was found a safe channel of 7 and 8
fathoms water: hereabout a ship will find good anchorage, if merely waiting for a
westerly or south-westerly gale to blow over. About \^ miles N. N.W. of Kemsue
lies a cluster of rocks, between which and the island we found (J and 7 fathoms
water, and a short distance to the northward of the rock there is a projecting point
of land of moderate height, with numerous rocks scattered over its surface: this
forms the southern point of a little bay and port farther westward ; the point is
called Passao, or Pauk-sha-oo, that being the name of the little bay between Passao Point
it and another high point having a high battery on it ; all the sides of this bay
are formed by sand hills. Between the Battery Point and the high land to the
northward there is an opening into a deep harbour to the westward : the entrance of
this is nearly barred by rocks, and the harbour too shoal for vessels drawing above
8 feet water ; but between the battery and Passa6 Points we anchored several
times in 3 and 3^ fathoms in the Discovery, when it was blowing strong from south-
ward. Saw no danger hereabout, excepting a little rock under water, distant about
100 yards N. E. of Passao Point. The bottom of the Great Bay is 1 U miles from the
bearing line of the two extreme points, and is formed of low land with a sandy beach ;
near the eastern part of this beach there is a small branch of a river or creek, and the
country, when viewed from an elevation, appeared populous and well cultivated. The
eastern side of the Great Bay is formed by high mountainous land, and about 5 miles
within Teng-mee Point there are several white rocks detached a little from the shore:
near these rocks we anchored in the Discovery, when twice compelled to ride out
heavy easterly gales, but, owing to a heavy sea rolling in from the southward, we found
it very unpleasant riding.
A short distance round Teng-mee Point to tiie westward there is a fort, and in the
Little Bay near it, called by the fishermen Cliino, a s((uadron of war boats are stationed ;
these boats are obliged to run over to the shoal harbour on the western side whenever
the wind blows strong.
The soundings all over the Great Bay are very regular, under 12 fatlioms, gradually
decreasing from across the entrance to the shores witiiin ; the bottom is soft mud, ex-
cepting just within Teng-mee Point, where it is rocky a little way, and should not be
passed at less than a mile from the land.
CUP-CIIEE-SEN, in lat. 22° 49^' N , Ion. 116° 7' E., is a broken point of land, very cup-chee.«,n.
422
CHINA, SOUTH COAST.
rocky, and has several detached rocks lying 1^ miles to the southward ; this point bears
from Teng-mee Point E. by N. ^ N., distant 17 miles, and about half-way between
them there is a cluster of rock a little detached from the shore. Opposite the rocks
there is the entrance into a small river or creek, with a tower, which the Chinese named
Oo-tong ; there were numerous fishing boats up this river. Close to the westward of
Cup-chee-san there is another small branch of a river; from the ship we could see the
walls of Cup-chee City, and two or three tall pagodas a little way up. This appears
a place of consequence, as several junks' masts were seen, and numerous other smaller
vessels ; but it does not afford any shelter for European vessels. Close in to the forts
which defend the entrance of the river, the water is very shoal, and the entrance
narrow ; it must, therefore, be only at high water that the junks can pass in or out:
there are some detached rocks about the bay. In passing between Teng-mee Point
and Cup-chee, soundings of 9 and 10 fathoms were very regular at .3 miles' distance
from the shore; and close to the detached rocks off the latter point had 11 and 12
fathoms water.
Black Mount. BLACK MOUNT, in lat. 22° 52^' N., Ion. 1 16° 1 1' E., is a remarkable little black
conical hill, about 4^ miles to the N. E. of Cup-chee Point ; it is a little way from the
beach, and on a down of red sand.
Breaker
Point.
Ma-iiili Point.
BREAKER POINT, in lat. 22° 57' N., Ion. 116°31'E., is low and rocky, having
within it some iiummocks of black rocks and red sand. From this point the coast
begins to trend more northerly, and ships passing it should keep about 2 miles off, as
the ground near it is in some parts foul. Breaker Point bears from Cup-chee Point
E. by N. f N., distant 23 miles ; in the bottom of a bay about mid-way between them
there is a large town, with two tall pagodas on the hills, where numerous fishing vessels
were seen in a creek or inlet near the town. From Cup-chee Point direct towards
Breaker Point, we had very regular soundings of 10 and 11 fathoms: and in passing-
round the Great Bay, had 7 and 8 fathoms. Between the Black Mount and the town
is one continued high sandy beach : a short distance on both sides of Breaker Point
are small batteries ; and in a little bay, 4 miles to the N. N. E., there is an inlet or
creek, with the walled town of Ching-hai, or Ching-hae.
MA-URH, or Horse Ear Point, called the Cape of Good Hope by European
navigators, is in lat. 23° 13f' N., Ion. 116° 50' E., bearing from Breaker Point N. E.,
distant 8 leagues, of moderate height, and has near to it 11 and 12 fathoms water.
Ma-urh Point has several small batteries around, and about 3 miles to the W. N.W.
of it is the inlet of Ma-urh-gaou, or Horse Ear Harbour, with the town on its western
bank. About 8 miles W. S.W. of Ma-urh Point there is a high projecting point of
the coast, having a few rocks about half a mile off it, and the hill itself is very rocky.
About 2 miles westward of the point lies the entrance of a small river or inlet, called
by the Chinese fishermen Hae-mun,* or Hai-moon, on the east side of which the
walls of the city were seen ; this is the third place from Macao where the Chinese
have a few war boats stationed. In passing from Breaker Point along the shore north-
ward, at the distance of a mile in some places, and at others about 2 miles off, had very
regular soundings from 14 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 9 fathoms off Hae-
niun Point. In Hae-mun Bay, to the southward of Hae-mun Point about 3 miles,
• Sea-gate or Passage.
CHINA, SOUTH COAST. — NAMOA. 423
is Merope small Rocky Bank, about 1 or 1^ miles off shore, having li, 2, and Merope
2| fathoms water on it. It was discovered by Captain Parkyn, in the Merope, be- "*"''•
longing to Calcutta, which ship struck hard and passed over it, March 4th, 1824 ; it
lies in the stream of 5 fathoms, and has 4 fathoms, soft ground, between it and the
shore. The coast eastward of Ma-urh Point (Cape of "Good Hope) trends \orth
and N.N.^y., and soon becomes so low as not to be visible at a few leagues' distance, but
there are high mountains in the interior. The City of Ching-hae-heen, a place of niuch
trade, stands on the shore about 3^ or 4 leagues to the JNorth of Horse Ear Point.
Nearly North from the latter point there is a small round island, witli a tall pagoda
on it, in lat. 2.3° 26^' N. ; and 2^ miles farther eastward there is anotiier irregular-
shaped island, with a fort on it. Between the latter island and tlie western "point
of JNan-gaou Island is formed the western entrance of a strait, throu-h which
numerous coasters daily pass, conveying the trade between the eastern and western
provinces.
NAMOA or LAMO ISLAND, called also NAN-GAOU or South Harbour, the xamoa Ma«.i.
western point of which is in lat. 23° 28' N., Ion. 116" 59^' E., and the N. E. point in
lat. 23° 32' N., Ion. 117° 13' E., is formed by two high mountains, connected by a low
isthmus, a third of its length from the western point. Tiie principal town, Naii-gaou,
is in a bay on its north side, near the eastern extreme ; a Mandarin of rank resides here
with a squadron of war boats at his command. There are two small islands in the
eastern part of this bay, and on the largest there is a fort. In entering the strait from
the westward, we pass over a sand-bank at low water spring tide, about 4 miles to the
southward of Namoa West Point, carrying 4| fathoms about 2 miles ; then deepened
into 5, 6, and 7 fathoms as we entered. \V lien we anchored in 4^ fathoms on the bank,
to allow our boat to sound around us, the pagoda on tlie island bore N. (J9° W., Outer
Lamock Island S. 71° E., and tlie summit of Ma-urh S. 40° W. The boat had only
3j fathoms water to the westward, yet all the large junks were observed to pass that
way. A line of fishing stakes extends a long way from the West Point of Namoa,
towards a small high island situated 2^ miles to the N.W. There are several openings
for vessels to pass through, but a ship should adopt one in mid-channel, as a mud Hat
extends a short distance off the north side of Namoa, close to tlie eastward of the fish-
ing stakes. A watering place was found on the north side, at the beach nearest the
west end of the island ; and there is a small island nearly in tlie mi(hile of the bay,
which is formed to the northward of the low isthmus: we passed between this and a
cluster of rocks to the northward, and found the ciiannel sate, with good souncbngs of
6 and 7 fathoms, excepting a little to the eastward of the small island ; where at low
water we had 4 fathoms on a muddy bottom.
Nan-gaou appears to be an excellent ancliorage for ships of any size ; a phui of it is
given in my chart of the eastern coast of China.
THE LAMOCK ISLANDS consist of three islands and a large rock, the latter i^mocw
being the northernmost ; they extend four miles N. E. by N. and S. E. by S., and a reef, J^'""''*-
having some of the rocks above water, extends nearly ;> miles to the S. W. of the southern
island. The largest, which is the S.W. island of the grouf), is in lat. 23° 17' N., Ion.
1 17° 2 (' E. We passed close along the S. E. side of this reef and the islands, in VJ and
20 fathoms, soft ground; and once, when blowing fresh with a heavy swell, we passed
between the Lamock Islands and foin- other smaller islands lying near Namoa, and
called in the old charts the Lamon Islands ; in this passage, we were very close to a
424
CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST.
Reefs.
Chuhvan
Pagoda.
rock under water, on which the sea seldom broke, and, as there may be other rocks
hereabout, a ship should not pursue this route until it is better examined. The Aus-
picious, in April, 1807, passed betwixt Namoa Island and the other groups in the
offing, and had pretty regular soundings; but care is necessary to avoid a reef of rocks
even with the water's edge, which lies off the east end of Namoa.
Dangers appear to extend as far as 6 miles off the south side of Namoa Islands;
that is, nearly half-way across the channel, towards Lamock S.W. reef. The sound-
ings hitherto obtained in and near this channel are from 10 to 16 fathoms; there is,
however, a 5 fathom patch about 4 miles off the east side of Namoa, and a Dangerous
Rock two miles South of the patch ; the rock lies between 8 and 9 miles N. N. E. of
the S.W. Lamock Island.
A ship passing outside the Lamock Islands in the night should not come under 24
fathoms towards their eastern side, where is the deepest water, but the soundings are
not regular.
The Merope, Captain Parkyn, in 1824, had regular soundings of 7, 6^, to 8 fathoms,
between the northern part of Namoa Island and the coast, within 3 and 4 miles of the
latter; and from having 9 fatlioms within 1^ miles of the N. E. point of Namoa, the
soundings were between 10 and 15 fathoms for 3 leagues in an easterly direction, till
close to the two reefs Dioyu and Chelsieu, which are covered at half-tide, and lie
about 2|^ or 3 miles from each other, in a N.W. by W. and S. E. by E. direction. The
Dioyu reef bears from the N. E. point of Namoa E. N. E., distant about 3 leagues, and
Chelsieu bears about E. f N. from the same point, nearly 4 leagues.* The Merope
passed between them in 13 and 14 fathoms water ; outside of Chelsieu she had the same
depths, and inside of Dioyu, within 2 miles of the coast, she had 7 and 8 fathoms
regular soundings. There are several deep inlets or bays opposite these reefs to the
northward, with depths of 5 and 4 fathoms, and there are small islands in the entrance
of some of them. Near to which stands Chulwan Pagoda, in lat. 23°y9'N., Ion.
1 17° 17' E. ; and to the eastward of those inlets lies Owick Bay, in lat. 23° 41' N., Ion.
117° 32' E., with the town of this name, having 4 and 5 fathoms water inside the island
and point, which form its S. E. extremity ; but this bay does not extend far inland.
Quinga-chin Village is at the eastern part of the bay, which is sometimes called by this
name, as well as by that of Owick.
.Tocak-ko
Point.
Tung-shan-
ying Point.
JOCAK-KO POINT, in lat. 23° 36|' N., a little to the E. by N. of the S. E.
point of Owick Bay, has two islands near it on the south side, and two fronting it
to the eastward, which point and islands are bold to approach, there being 12 and 13
fathoms water close to the point, between it and the two islands that front its eastern
extremity; and on the N. E. side there is anchorage in the bay, formed between it
and Tung-shan-ying Point. The Brothers lie E. f S. and E. by S. ^ S. from the former
point, about 12 or 13 miles' distance.
TUNG-SHAN-YING POINT, in lat. 2.3° 46' N., Ion. 117° 39' E., bearing from
Jocak-ko Point N. E. by N. i N., distant about 31 or 4 leagues, has the town of the
same name on the inside of the point, close to which is the harbour for junks, com-
pletely sheltered by the point and Pagoda Island fronting it, with depths of 7 to 4
fathoms, and 12 or 13 fathoms water in the channel formed between the point and
island, which is about half a mile wide.
* According' to Captain Felix Da jot, these dangers lie more to the southward; bearing between East and
E. I N. from the north point of Namoa Island.
CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST.— HOO-TOW-SHAN BAY. 425
About 4i miles to the eastward of Tung-shan-ying Point is situated Koo-liiy-tow
(Old ThunderHead), which forms the east point ot'Tutig-shan-ying Bay, witii Pairoda
Island extending across nearly half the month of the bay, formed between these points,
which extends considerably inland to the northward," witii several islands in it, and
good depths of water in some places; for there are 12 fathoms in the western channel,
between Tung-slian-ying Point and Pagoda Island ; but the eastern channel between
the Island and Koo-luy-tow is much wider, being about 1^ niiles, with soundiiin^s of 18,
17, and 16 fathoms ; and directly inside the island, close under it on the north side,
there are 8 or 10 fathoms water, where a ship would find shelter from all winds, oppo-
site Tung-shan-ying Town, about U miles distant. To the N. E. of Pagoda Island
about 1| or 2 miles, lie three islands'in a N. N.W. and S. S. E. direction, nearly touch-
ing each other, and the Sisters, other two islands, about 2 miles farther up the har-
bour, with breakers near the latter, and shoals in the western part of the harbour: but
to the north-eastward there is safe anchorage in 8 to 5 fathoms about a mile off the
villages, situated on the sandy shore of the isthmus that joins the high land of Koo-luy-
tow to the main.
HOO-TOW-SHAN BAY (Tiger Head Bay\ or DANSBORG BAY, in lat. Hootou-
23° 51' N., Ion. 117° 48' E., about 2^ or 3 leagues N. E. fj-om Koo-luy-tow, has good ''''"' '^''^■
anchorage in from 5 to 7 fathoms on the north side of the western point of the entrance,
where In-ga village stands. The bay is fronted by several islands, having a safe pas-
sage of 8 or 9 fathoms between the N. E. group of three islands, and the S.W.
group of five large islands; the shores of these islands are rocky, and there are some
contiguous islets. Good water may be got on the west side of Sa-chow, the northern-
most of the S.W. group ; and anchorage in 10 fathoms, protected from easterly
winds : this island extends about a mile North and South, and lies about 2 miles east-
ward of In-ga Point, the channel between them being safe, with depths of 8 or 9
to 14 or 15 fathoms, and it is the western channel leading into the bay. 1'he en-
trance of this channel, called Rees Passage, is formed on the west side by a reet that
projects nearly 2 miles South from two small isles close together, Avhich lie about half
a mile southward of the west point of the bay. The coasting junks pass through the
narrow channel on the west side of the reef and small isles, which is formed between
them and the point of In-ga.
About l-^ miles to the north-westward of the N. E. group lie two reefs, called Goo
and Ching, covered at three-quarters flood, with 8 and 10 fathoms water between them,
and the same depths between them and the islands. Awo-ta Rock, near the sandy
beach, bears from these dangers S. 75° W. *
Hoo-tow-shan, or Tiger-head-hill, in lat. 23° 56' N., and 4 or 5 miles IS'orth from Hootow siian.
the N.E. group, forms the east side of the entrance of the river, leading to Quin-ting
city ; there is a wide channel of 9 and 10 fathoms water between the islands and IIoo-
tow-shan Point, with a sand-bank, partly dry at low^ water, .stretching about 2 miles
from the point to the westward : between the extremity of this bank and the shoal
water that lines the western shore leading to the river, the channel is about a mile
wide, with regular depths of 3^ to 24 fathoms, and inside the bank the deptlis increase
to 4 and 5 fathoms towards the eastern shore, o|)p()site the village Hoo-tow-siian, w lure
the sand-bank and the contiguous land would shelter vessels of moderate draught
from all winds and sea.*
* A plan of these places is given in my chart of the eastern coast of China.
VOL. II. 3 I
426
CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST. — AMOY HARBOUR.
The Brothers. THE BROTHERS are two islets, or rocks, distant 2J miles from each other, in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, and about 4| leagues offshore: the southernmost is in lat.
28° 32' N., Ion. 117° '18' E., and it bears from the S.W. Lamock Island N. 58° E., dis-
tant about 27^ miles ; from Koo-luy-tow it bears S. S. E. f E., and from In-ca Point
S. 6° E. about 16 miles. Close to the southern one there are 24 fathoms, and to the
northward of them 20 fathoms water, in a wide channel.
Jlerope
Shoal.
MEROPE SHOAL, in lat. 24° 10' N., Ion. 118° 1-5' E., and about 2 leagues to
tlie westward of Chapel Island, appears to have been discovered by Lieutenant Par-
kyns, R.N., in 1824, when commanding- the vessel of that name on a trading voyage
from Bengal. The depth found on it was about 2^ to 3 fathoms; but there are rocks
said to be dry at low water, with overfalls, extending from the shoal bank to the north-
ward, which are marked on the M.S. chart of the Amherst's voyage in 1832, by Cap-
tain T. Rees, in command of that vessel. Between these dangers and Chapel Island
the depths are 1 1 or 12 fathoms, and inside of them from 10 to 8 fathoms near the main
land and contiguous islands ; either passage being apparently safe. About 3 leagues
S.W. from Chapel Island there is a bank of gravel, having 7 fathoms water on it, with
10 and 11 fathoms inside.
au,pei Island. CHAPEL ISLAND, called Tung-ting-seu, by the Chinese, in lat. 24° 15i' N.,
Ion. 118° 13^' E., or9' 44" E. of the S.W. point of Koo-long-seu, lies off Amoy Har-
bour, and when bearing E. N. E. or W. S. W., a hole through it is perceived : when it
bore South, and about mid-channel between it and Amoy Harbour, Captain Ross
passed over a sand-bank with 6 fathoms water on it, but no less could be found. Ac-
cording to Captain CoUinson, R.N., Chapel Island is level, and probably about 200
feet high, and 3 cables in circumference. When in its neighbourhood, the Pagoda of
Nan-tae-woo-shan, which is 1,728 feet above the sea, will be visible over Chung-chow-
foo, by which the approach to Amoy may be recognized.
Amoy Har-
bour.
Sailing
directions.
AMOY HARBOUR,* called by the fishermen Hae-mun, or Hia-men-seu, is a port
of great trade between the Eastern and South-western provinces of China.
If bound to Amoy, after having rounded Lamock Islands and the Brothers, steer
about N.E. by N. for Chapel Island, keeping within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast. With
it bearing N. by W. 4 leagues, in 20 fathoms water, a remarkable round hill may be
seen on the coast, bearing about N.W. by N. : steer then to pass close to Chapel
Island on either side, where the usual depth is 14 or 15 fathoms, if not too near Me-
ropes Shoal, or the islands and banks that lie towards the main. From hence, steer
northward for the entrance of the bay or harbour, keeping in 11 or 12 fathoms, and
Wooseu-san, called also Great Goeve, a long island in the entrance, will soon be seen,
at each end of which there is a rocky hill, and in the middle a sandy bay. To the N.E.
stands a pretty high rock, which may be passed on either side, but it is preferable to
pass about three-quarters of a mile or a mile to the eastward, in 16 fathoms water.
From hence the channel is perceived open, betwixt the Little Goeve (which lies to
the northward of the great one), and five islands to the north-eastward ; it is about
1 J miles wide, with 12 to 14 fathoms in mid-channel, which is the best track. When
through, steer N.W. by N. for the south-west part of Amoy Island, and steer along
it within half a mile distance, the soundings being regular. The harbour is situated
* A plan of this harbour is given in the chart of the eastern coast of China ; the recent one, from Captain
CoUinson's survey, is now published by the Admiralty.
CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST. — AMOY HARBOUR. 427
to the N. Westward, close to Amoy city, and may be easily discerned by the junks or
small vessels at anchor, betwixt the city and the Island Koo-long-seu, fronting it to the
westward.
On the south side of the bay is the entrance of Chin-chin River ; and outside, to
the northward of the entrance, lies the large island and town of Quemoy, Mr.
M'Donald, master of H.M.S, Melville, states, that Quemoy Island is considerably
larger than generally represented in the charts, and describes the eastern f)art of the
island to be moderately high land ; the N.E. part, when first seen on W.N.W. bear-
ing, appeared as three detached round hills to the right of the higher land. The bay
and harbour of Amoy are safe for any number of ships, and sheltered from all winds :
it is the chief port of the province of Fokien, but foreign ships are not permitted to
trade here. At present it seems difficult for a ship touching here to procure articles
of any kind :* the mandarins are liable to feel the displeasure of government, if a dis-
covery is made that they have ofl'ered any encouragement to induce foreign ships to
visit the outports along the coast.
The tide rises from 18 to 20 feet on the springs in the harbour ; high water on full Tides.
and change of moon at 12 hours .30 minutes, by Captain Parkyn's observations in 1824.
Captain Richard Collinson, R.N., who commanded the Bentinck in the late attack captain Coliin.
of the fleet on Amoy, and who made a survey of the harbour, gives the following ^°,"s.""'"^'
directions for it.
" The harbour of Amoy is easy of access and egress ; in the outer harbour there is good Amoy outer
holding ground, and unless vessels are badly found in ground tackle, 1 should conceive ''"''""'^•
no gale of wind could hurt thein."
" In the inner harbour, from the appearance of the rocks and tlie immediate vicinity inner har.
of the houses to the beach, I think no great swell ever exists, and it is capable of ''°'"^-
containing from 60 to 100 vessels. The rise and fall of the tide, from one day's obser-
vation on the full moon, in September, 1841, was 14ifeet; at this period, however, the Tides.
night tide exceeded the day by 2 feet. The change of the depth .'5 days after full and
change, in all probability, would exceed 16 feet. This would be of intinite importance
to vessels requiring repair, particularly as sites for docks, and ample materials for
making them, are to be found on the island of Koo-long-seu, as well as in other parts
of the harbour."
" Chaw-chat, or Kevv-tsee-tseao, is a rock nearly level with the water's edge ; during ciaw-chat.
our stay, which was at spring tides, it was never covered : it lies N. 22° W. J Of miles
from Chapel Island : when on it, the three chimneys on Woo-seu-shan Island are in a
line with the pagoda of JNan-tae-woo-shan, bearing S. 82° VV. By keeping Tae-pan or
Wei-tse-seu point open to the eastward of Tsing-seu Island, bearing JN. 55° \V .,t the
rocks will be avoided, should high tides and smooth water prevent their being seen.'
" The Island of Woo-seu-shan lies to the westward of Chaw-chat, the cliaiuiel be- woo-fcu-simn
tween tiiem being 5 cables wide. The island is 1^ miles long, and near the centre ^^''^'•'^■
only a cable's length broad. On the east side is a sandy bay with a fort, having em-
brasures for eight guns. The N. E. and S. E. faces of tiie island are steep cliHs : on
the west side are three sandy bays with two batteries, each having live embrasures. In
•
The Canton, after losing her masts, rudder, and boats in a Ty-foong, July 2nd, 1797, to tlic eastw.nrd of
Luconia, in lat. 18' N., Ion. 127° E., was drifted round to tlu- northward of the Island I'oiino^a.^ Au<;ust 24th,
she anchored in 8 fathoms water at the entrance of Aniov Harbour, where she riniained till the 31st, but could
not get any supplies, nor would the IMandarin forward a' letter to Canton with 50 dollars paid down; and what
water they procured was brought from the shore in a boat they had built on board,
t About N.W. by \V. by the chart.
3 I 2
ii^
■China, south-east coast. — amoy harbour.
Similar buildings
Tsing-seu
Island.
Cheih-seu.
the northernmost bay of the three is a large village, and the ruins of an ancient fort.
On the north point is a large battery, mounting ,'50 guns, and there are two 4-gun bat-
teries on the N. E. side of the island. On its summit, which is about 300 feet above
the sea, are three chimneys, which are intended for alarm signals,
exist all along the coast of Fokien and Cheekiang."
woo-an. " To the Westward of Woo-seu-shan half a mile is the Island of Woo-an, which is
5 cables long ; it is barren and without inhabitants. Between the two are three small
islets, with reefs lying oft' them. Shelter from easterly winds, with a depth of from
4 to 6 fathoms, might be found here; but vessels had better not pass to the westward of
Woo-seu-shan until more soundings have been obtained. The number of detached reefs
in this neighbourhood lead me to sus|)ect that more sunken rocks will be found."
SunkenRocks. " N. 32° W . froui Woo-au Island lie two patches, which are covered at high water, and
between it and the main are several islets and half-tide rocks. South from Woo-seu-
Shan Island one mile is another half-tide reef, which lies 7 cables from the main."*
" N. 40° W. from Woo-seu-shan Island is Tsing-seu : mid-way between the two is a
clift" islet, Chin-seao, N.W. of which two cables, and S. S.W. one cable, are reefs,
which dry at low water."
" Tsing-seu Island rises precipitously from the sea, and three forts are built on its
summit, which is about 250 feet high. These forts are situated on the east, west, and
south faces, having embrasures for 12, 6, and 8 guns; on the N.W. is a jetty, with
stone steps leading to the summit ; but these, as well as the barracks, were in an un-
finished state in August, 1841. The entrance to Amoy harbour lies between this
island and a small islet, Cheih-seu (CO feet high), which is 8 cables to the N. E. ;
the shores of both islands facing the passage are steep to : three rocks lie half a cable
southerly from Cheih-seu. Two half-tide rocks lie North 4^ cables, and N. 18°E,,
3 cables from it, to avoid which, when standing to the eastward, and within half a
mile of Cheih-seu, keep the east end of the island open of the west end of Woo-
seu-shan."
" N.E. by E. from Cheih-seu are four islands : the two nearest are rather larger than
Cheih-seu, and are called by the Chinese Ta-o-seao and Hwang-kwa."
" Seo-tan Island, about one-third of a mile farther to the north-eastward, is 6 cables
long and about 200 feet high, and has a sandy bay upon its northern side. On this
island there are three chimneys, and forts upon its northern and southern shore."
"Ta-tan, near Seo-tan to theN.E., is 8 cables long, with a low sandy isthmus in the
centre. The east end is the highest (about 300 feet), with a small circular watch-house,
and three chimneys on it. On the west side of the isthmus is a village. Between this
island and the south end of Amoy, only 12 fathoms were found; soundings, however,
were not obtained close in to the Amoy shore."
" From Cheih-seu to the outer harbour the course is N. 38° W. 4| miles, with a
depth of from 7 to 12 fathoms." ""^
" Between Tsing-seu and Tae-Pan point (IJ cables to the southward of which are
several half-tide rocks, and a small peaked islet off" its north point), is a deep bay, in
which are several reefs. Vessels, therefore, should not bear farther to the westward
than to bring Tae-pan Point to bear N. 60° W., or Tsing-seu Island S. 60° E., until the
positions of the dangers have been correctly ascertained."
Amoy Island. "The south cud of Amoy is a saudy point, with several black rocks extending
2 cables from the shore. On the slope of the hill which forms the point is a circular
Seo-tan Island.
Ta-tan Island.
This reef does not appear in the chart, but there are several islets off the S.W. .point of Woo-seu-shan.
CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST. — AMOY HARBOUR. 429
battery, W. by S. one sixth of a mile is a second ; between the two, a half-tide rock lies,
•Scabies from the shore; to avoid which, when standing in towards the coast, aclifl'
point, with a battery and three chimneys on it, will be seen, and also a sandy point with
a large stone at its southern extreme, three-quarters of a mile farther to the N.W. ;
tack before these two points come in line with one another."
" From the chimney point mentioned above, tiie .3 fathoms line extends 2 cables ;
otherwise the coast line of Amoy, which is a continuous sandy beach, is steep to, and
the lead is a good guide."
" N. 61° W., half a mile from the chimney points, is a wall surmounted by a parapet,
which extends from the coast inland .3 cables ; from hence to the stone on the beach,
which is less than half a mile distant, was one continuous line of battery, mount-
ing 48 guns. From the stone on the beach, opposite to w hich was a white semicircular
battery (which, with two other batteries farther to the N.W., appear to iiave been the
only defences until after the visit of H. M. S. Blonde, in 1840), the coast trends rather
more to the northward for a quarter of a mile, where there is a creek dry at low water;
along this space was a similar line of fortification (stone faced with eartii), mounting
,38 guns. At the back of the creek is an extensive suburb and an isolated hill, the sum-
mit of which is a large mass of granite. At the entrance of the creek was a battery,
faced with jjlank, mounting 5 guns, and upon the opposite side was one similarly con-
structed, mountiug 12 guns."
" N.W. i W., three-quarters of a mile from the stone on the beacb, are several rocks,
which cover at half-tide, the outermost being 1| cables from the shore. On a point from
;vvhence they extend is a mass of granite, the side of which facing the sea has some
Chinese characters upon it. To the westward of this was a battery, mounting 7 guns,
and on the point forming the other side of the same bay was one, mountings. These
lerminate the defences upon the Amoy side, and here the hills which form the back-
ground of the coast line also end : the city, w hich is very little above the level of the sea,
commences at this point."
" The ridge of hills upon the face of the island does not rise above 600 feet ; they
are abrupt and barren, with numerous large boulders of granite, a square upright mass
<of which, on the highest part of the western extreme of the ridge, rises to the height of
528 feet above the sea, which is about the average height of the chain."
" From the large stone with tlie Chinese characters upon it to the western extreme
,of Amoy, the distance is one mile. The houses extend closedown to the beach, and
the trading junks lie aground opposite to them."
" The distance across at the entrance of the channel, between Amoy and the island
of Koo-long-seu, which is abreast this stone, is 840 yards, and the narrowest part of the
channel 675 yards."
" The Island of Koo-long-seu, which lies off the S.W. shore of Amoy, is well adapted Koo-iong-seu
for a settlement; it is nearly 3 miles in circumference, and the channel between it and
-Amoy is G72 yards wide, the ridge of hills on the island being higher than those oppo-
site. There are two distinct ridges upon the island w hich might be separately defended,
the highest point being 280 feet above the sea. The island is princi|)ally granite, the
soil being formed of it in a decomposed state. Large boulders of it also occur in many
places, both upon the shores and the highest parts of the island. Fresh water from water,
wells was plentiful, the artificial channels for conducting it to boats lead me to sup-
pose that there is always a good supi)ly of this article. There are many houses upon
the island, and the population may be estimated at between 3,000 and 4,000.'
430 CHINA, SOUTH-EAST COAST.
" Detached rocks lie off nearly all the points, and off the N. E. face, or that towards
Amoy, are several, which are covered at high water; therefore, in passing into the
inner harbour by this channel, it is recommended to keep the Amoy shore on board,
after you have passed the rock with the characters on it. The west extreme of How-
seu Island (which is in the centre of the inner harbour, rather more than half a mile
off the north point of Koo-long-sew), in a line with a peak on the east part of a ridge
of hills at the back of it, will put you on the outer rock. The summit of the island in
line with the rock will carry you through nearly in mid-channel. Having passed Har-
bour Rock, Fan-tseao (which is steep to, and lies not quite a cable from the west point
of Amoy, having 1| fathoms between it and the shore), haul to the northward and
bring up where you please, taking care not to approacli nearer the Amoy shore than
three cables, in order to avoid a reef of rocks lying to the northward of Harbour
Rock."
" Off the north point of Koo-long-seu is a peaked rock, covered at high water, 1^
cables from the shore; and N. by \V. from it two cables is a shoal patch, having
2j fathoms at low water, which ought to be buoyed if the harbour is frequented."
" The other entrance to the harbour is between Koo-long-seu and Tae-pan Point,
the distance between which is If miles. The coast is steep to, and in the channel
the depth varies from 8 to 12 fathoms."
" Having passed the west point of Koo-long-seu, off which are several half-tide rocks
one cable from the shore, the channel narrows to 8 cables, and the course for How-seu
Island is N.N. E. ; this island has 15 fathoms within 30 yards of the rocks, and
should be passed close to avoid the 2^ fathoms patch mentioned above. Harbour Rock
may be steered for directly ; it bears to the southward of East."
N. B. — ^This channel requires further examination.
" On Koo-long-seu are five batteries : two on the S.E. end, mounting 15 and 9 guns ;
two on the south side, having 7 and 3 guns ; and one on the N.W. side, mounting
8 guns. On Tae-pan point were two batteries, and on the point further to the westward
three others, one of 6 and two of 5 guns."
" The S.W. point of Koo-long-seu is in lat. 24° 31' 7" N., Ion. 118° 3' 38" E. High
Tides. water on full and change, at the moon's transit. Rise and fall by day 12 feet 6 inches,
by night 14 feet 10 inches. Variation, 1841, 0° 43' E."
Lee-o-ioo LEE-O-LOO, orLAE-AOBAY, called also Yow-lo by the Chin-chew people,
^^^- and Nulo by those of Canton, in lat. 24° 24' N., Ion. 118° 28' £., is formed on the west
side of the eastern extremity of the large island of Quemoy, where the opium traders
anchor in from 4 to 7 fathoms. The Sylph's Journal thus describes it : April 22nd,
1833, blowing strong from N.E., at 2 p.m. saw the Island Quemoy and the small islets
off its east end ; when abreast the largest, about one mile off, had 10 fathoms water.
At half-past 2 hauled in for the bay, and at 3 anchored in 5|; fathoms, high water, ex-
tremes of the bay from E, | S. to W. by S. i S., south-west extreme of the land S.W.
by W. I W., Chapel Island S. S. W. J- W. 18 miles, Yow-lo village N. E. by E.
This bay is spacious, with good shelter from N.W. to East, but otherwise exposed. In
sounding found 4 and 5 fathoms water very near the shore, where we anchored, being
a bank with only 3|; fathoms on it at low water.
The schooner Greyhound, Captain Josiah Sturgis, of Boston, with opium. May 16th,
1827, anchored here in 4 fathoms, hard sand, with Hea-mun Hill bearing W. by
S,^ S., a village N.W. |N. 2| miles, Yow-lo village N. E. 1| miles, and the low
CHINA, EAST COAST. 431
rocky point of the bay S. E. ^ S., distant a quarter of a mile, the outer part of which
is covered at half-flood, and has 4 fathoms water close to it. About half a mile
inside the point there is a small sandy isthmus, over which the sea sometimes breaks
into the bay. The depths across the mouth of the bay are from Ci to 8 fathoms, decreas-
ing to 2} or 2 fathoms inside, near its sandy shore.
HOO-E-TOW BAY, in lat. 24° 30' N., Ion. 110° 29' E., about 2i leagues to the Hoo-ctow
northward of the last-mentioned bay, and to the N. Eastward of Quemoy Island, was '^*^"
visited May 23rd, 1827, by Captain Sturgis, in the Greyhound schooner; this l)ay
appears to afford shelter from IN. E. and easterly winds. Quemoy and its adjacent
isles form the West and S.W. boundary of this bay, and it is formed on the east side
by a peninsula, terminating in a point with breakers, and a low tower near the point.
The Greyhound anchored in 7 fathoms, about 1^ miles from the eastern shore, and
nearly at an equal distance about S. ^ W. from Oyster Island, which lies at the N. E.
part of the bay, and half a mile in the same direction from a sunken rock, covered with
2 feet at low tide, having close to it 3 fathoms water ; near to its western side there
are 6 and 7 fathoms, decreasing regularly to 3 fathoms close to Oyster Island. From
the Greyhound's anchorage. Low Tower or Pagoda, on eastern point of the bay, bore
S. (J3°E. ; Oyster Island N. 5° E. 1^ miles ^western point of the bay S. 40^ W. ;
highest hill on western coast W. S.W. ; another distant hill N..52°W.; Low Island
N. 72° W. ; island off western point of bay S. 30° W. ; Sunken Rock >f. 5° E., distant
half a mile, and a pagoda on a distant hill N. 40° E. There are large and dangerous
fishing stakes fronting the eastern shore of the bay to a considerable distance, barely
above water, having 7 or 8 fathoms of depth among them ; to avoid these, do not ap-
proach that shore nearer than 1^ miles. From the Greyhound's anchorage junks' masts
were visible abreast, over the peninsula, a little to the South of a walled town, and
a large town lies at the N. E. curve of the bay, with villages between it and the walled
town mentioned. From the anchorage the Greyhound steered S. S.W. in proceeding
to sea, in regular soundings of 8 to 10 and 11 fathoms, abreast the islets and breakers
near the S.W. extremity of the bay.
EAST COAST OF CHINA, FROM AMOY TO THE
SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY.
TOE-KOW, in about lat. 24° 48' N., distant about 11 or 12 leagues N. E. of the Toe-Kw.
entrance of Amoy Harbour, is an open bay, exposed to N. E. and Easterly winds ;
the anchorage is within a mile of a reef of rocks bearing to the S. Westward, and a
shoal bears from it S. by E. There is sometimes a demand for opium at this place,
but there is difficulty in procuring the dollars for it, and the danger is great, if a gale
come from eastward w hilst a shi|) remains at anchor in the road ; there being no room
to Avork out to sea, she must trust to her ground tackle. About 3 miles to the N. E.
of this place there is another small bay full of rocks and foul ground.
432 CHINA, EAST COAST, — CHIN-CHEW BAY.
chiiiciiew CHIN-CEIEW BAY, about 3 or 4 leagues N. Eastward of Toe-kow, is large, and
^*^" sheltered from northerly and southerly winds by the projecting points of land on each
side. Captain Rees, in 1835, made Sonchee Point (the S.W. point of the bay) to be in
lat. 24° 47^' N., Ion. 118° 43^' E., and Ta-tuy, the largest island off the bay, in lat,
24° 52' N., and on the same meridian as the point. From the outermost point, which
forms the western side of the bay, a reef and sand-bank stretches to aconsiilerable dis-
tance, which should have a good berth in rounding the point, and there is said to be
several reefs and islets in the bay. Chin-chew harbour and town are situated at the
bottom of the bay, on the western side ; the harbour is covered from the bay by a
point of land, having on it a large square pagoda : on the other side of the point may
be seen the numerous masts of the junks whicli are moored in the harbour.
The coast from Chin-chew Bay extends to the eastward to the Lam-yet Islands, and
there are several bays and harbours on this part of the coast in the neighbourhood of
Chin-chew Bay, formed by reefs and islets, which render the ingress and egress intri-
cate, as some of the sharp rocks are covered at half-tide, and require great caution in
Tides. passing among them, the rise and fall of tide being upwards of 3 fathoms on the
springs. By the Sylph's Journal, in April, 1833, one of these bays apjiears to be 3 or 4
leagues to the eastward of Chin-chew, and in lat. 24° 53' N., by an indifferent obser-
vation : she anchored April 8th, opposite the large walled town of Tsong-boo, where
many junks were loading sugar for the northern ports. From her anchorage at Tsong-
boo, the Sylph weighed and ran into another bay a little to the westward, which was
thought at'first to be that of Chin-chew ; but having no observation, this became doubt-
ful, although several of the localities are specified in the journal, which describes the
bay as follows : — " This bay has several islands, reefs, and rocks in it : we anchored
in 5i fathoms at high water, with a pagoda on a point of land on the western side of
the bay, the masts of the junks visible over the low land, where Ti-tho or Jit-ho town
is situated, and bore W. by S. ^ S., distant 3 miles ; centre of Toa-tuy Island S. by
W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile; A-aa town N.W. 1 mile; Ta-kut town on the
east point of the bay E. N. E. 4 miles ; easternmost point or extreme of the bay E. by
N. ^ N. 4^ miles, and the islets and rocks oft' this point East. On the 13th and 14th
April, thewind Idew strong from E. N. Eastward, forcing a heavy swell into the bay,
which made the ship roll deeply. On the 20th, moved for a day to the west point of
the bay, and anchored in 6 fathoms water, Ti-tho Pagoda N.W. by W. i \V.; west
point of the bay S. f W. ; rocks oft' that point S. | E. ; Ta-kut town S. by E. ; Toa-
tuy Island near our first anchorage N. by W. ; off" shore about three-quarters of a
mfle."*
Hwny-gan. H WU Y-GAN-HEEN HARBOUR, in about lat. 25° 6' N., Ion. 119° & E., and
''^^"- about 5 or 5^ leagues to the North-eastward of Tsong-boo, is thus described in the
Sylph's journal :—" April 6th, 1833, passed an island, supposed to be Ock-seu, the
southernmost Lam-yet, hauled in W. by N. for a bay, said by the pilot to be adapted
for smugglers. At 11 a.m. rounded an island with a long reef off" it, at the entrance
of a deep bay, into which we worked with a contrary wind, passing several patches of
dangerous rocks, on one of which we nearly ran before it was seen. Working in till
1 P.M., then saw some large junks at anchor in an inner harbour, formed by islands ;
* The Sylph remained in this bay from the 9th till the 22n(l April, and sold a considerable quantity of
opium ; on this day, the wind blowing strong from N. E. right on the shore, with rain and threatening weather,
slie weighed anchor at 9 a.m., stood out till 10 a.m., and being then clear out of it, she bore away S.W. for
Lee-o-loo Bay.
CHINA, EAST COAST. — MIN RIVER. 433
stood in for them, found the entrance formed by two islands ; had one cast of 3^
fathoms, then 15, 10, and 17 fathoms: off the easternmost island are several rocks
covered at high water, refjuiring care in passing. Anchored in 12 fathoms, a village
with a large pagoda N. E., distant half a mile; entrance of the harbour S. E. by S.
1 mile ; island from N.W. by N to S. E. by E. | E. ; islet off the east end of the latter
S. E. with some detached rocks. This would be an excellent harbour were it not for
numerous small rocks, reefs, and fishing stakes, scattered about. There are many
large villages in the vicinity and on the adjacent islands ; the main land is high, and
about 4 miles distant. The tides set fair into and out of the harbour, running with Tides.
rapidity, and the perpendicular rise and fall appeared to be about 24 feet.
In entering or departing from this harbour, keep near the southern or western
side of the channel, the water being deep close to the rocks ; but on the northern or
eastern side there are many rocks, and an extensive bank dry at low water, tiiis
being the spot where in entering the harbour we had 3f fathoms at high water.
The Sylph left this harbour April 8th, steered out of the bay in a S. S.W. direction,
and saw many rocks and shoals, which were not visible when she entered. The
best guide is to keep a boat ahead, for the lead is of little use, the rocks being per-
pendicular.
THE LAM-YET ISLANDS, with other groups, form a great chain of islands Lam-yet
stretching along the coast to the ]N. Eastward ; many of them are only rugged rocks.
There are safe channels betwixt some of these groups of islands, and places of shelter
inside several of them. Ock-seu, the southernmost island of the Lam-yet range,
is placed in lat. 24° 59^' N., Ion. 119° 34i' E. by the chronometers in the ships of the
embassy under Lord Amherst ; they passed between it and the main, and had not less
than 13 fathoms water: these islands appeared very barren and of a red colour. The
outer or easternmost of the Lam-yet Islands is in lat. 25° 12' N., Ion. 119° 50' E.
HING-HWA-FOO PAGODA, in lat. 25° 25' N., Ion. 119° 50' E., is built on the JJ"'"^-^;^*-^""
south point of a little circular bay, said to form a good harbour, although probably too "^^ '
shoal for large ships: it lies to the S.W. of iiae-tan Island, and directly inside the
island named the Three Chimneys.
HAE-TAN, or SEA ALTAR ISLAND, is the largest island on this part of the Hae-un.
coast, extending several leagues in a N. N. E. and S. S.W. direction, in form of a
crescent, embracing a large but shoal bay on its western side fronting the main land,
and where the principal town is situated. The body of the island is in about hit.
25° 3t)' N., Ion. ]20°0' E. ; the passage inside of it is very intricate, and the connecting
chain of the Lamyet and other isles, with their numerous rocks, islets, and unknown
dangers, together with the strong tides, render it particularly unsafe for large ships.
Several small ships have proceeded through this inside passage, one of wliich was
the Dhaulle, in 1827, and the Amherst, in 1832 ; they found the soundings usually
from 10 to 15 fathoms inside the Lam-yet chain, and from 5 to 8 fathoms within
Hae-tan.
THE MIN RIVER (the entrance in lat. 20° 11'* N., Ion. 120° 0' E.) leads to the Min RUer
celebrated city of Tuh-chow-foo, or Fou-chow, which is about 10 leqgues West from
* Some late observations place it 6 or 7 miles farther South.
VOL. 11. 3 K
434 CHINA, EAST COAST. — TING-HAE.
the entrance, and is a place of great trade. This river was formerly called Chang by
the Dutch, and is fronted by a chain of isles about 4J or 5 leagues from the entrance,
extending nearly North and South, having safe passages between some of them ; the
I'iiikeueii. southernmost of these is a small group, called Pih-keuen-shan, or White Dog Islands,
"''''"• in lat. 26° 4' N., Ion. 120^ 14' E. A large island, of 5 or (J miles in extent each way,
lies in the entrance of the river, near the N. E. side of which is the little Island of lioo-
keang, with its two contiguous islets. The proper channel into the river is to the
northward of all these ; the channel to the southward of the large island appears to be
unexplored. The entrance of the river lies in a W. N.W. direction from the White
Dog Islands, and is formed by sand-banks on each side, partly dry at low water ;
these project 6 or 7 miles from the land ; about a mile further out, there is a patch of
Directions. rocks Covered at high tide. The fair passage is to the South of this patch, and when
it bears North, about half a mile distant, a W.N.W. course leads directly l)etueen the
sands into the channel, which is from half to three-quarters of a mile wide, w ith sound-
ings of 3 to 6 or 7 fathoms. On the south sand-bank there is a rock above water;
this is a guide for entering the channel, by keeping it bearing W. 18° N. when Hrst
seen, and drawing it more to the westward when it is approached within 2 miles, to
avoid the edge of the south sand. After passing to the nortiiward of the rock about
half a mile distant, Hoo-keang Island will be seen bearing about W. by N. ^ N., with
two islets close to its northern side, which islets kept in one, or on a transit line, after
having passed the rock, is a guide for the channel into the river, and when these islets
are approached, Woo-ga Point, with a fort on it, lies opposite on the north side ; it has
deep water close to, with good anchorage about a mile to the westward of it, near the
Temple on the northern shore of the river, in from .3 to 6 fiithoms. About half a mile
to the westward of the Temple is the entrance to a branch of the river leading to the
northward, and a mile still further West the main channel narrows to the width of
about a quarter of a mile, forming, between the north point of the large island and the
main, the Woo-soo-mun Pass. The Pass has a fort on each side, and there are several
islets and rocky patches near it to the eastward. The soundings in this part of the
river are very irregular. The river from the Pass takes a south-westerly direction for
six miles towards the west end of the large island, where the northern and southern
entrance channels unite ; the river proceeds in a general westerly direction for 18 or
20 miles to the city of Tuh-chow-foo.
Ting-hae. TING-HAE, in about lat. 26° 20'* N., Ion. 120° 5' E., affords good shelter, into
which the Canton was piloted by a fisherman, August 7th, 1797, and anchored in
7| fathoms, blue mud, opposite the town, and entirely surrounded by land. She pro-
cured 40 butts of water and a few bullocks ; sailed from hence August 18th, and arrived
7th September at Macao. After weighing from Ting-hae, steered between E. S. E.
and South in passing out amongst the islands which front the bay, soundings regular
from 7 to 16 fathoms, soft ground.
About 3 or 4 leagues South from Ting-hae Point and town, and about 2 leagues
from Mey-hou-so Point, there is a rocky bank, sometimes dry, which forms the
southern extreme of the Bay of Ting-hae or Min River. The depths in the channel,
between the rocky bank and shoals which front Min River and the islands outside,
are from 9 to 14 fathoms, and from 7 to 11 fiithoms between the above-named point
* It was placed in lat. 2G° 10' N., Ion. 119' 57' E., by Captain Vivian, of the Canton; the ex;.ct latitude,
therefore, is not known.
CHINA, EAST COAST. 436
and Pih-keuen-shan group, lying abreast the point. Between this group and the
next islands to the northward the passage is wide and safe, having a peaked rocky
islet bounding it on the north side. This may be considered the best channel to pass
through amongst the islands into the bay, and it is about 4 leagues to the eastward of
the point.
NORTH-EASTERLY WINDS usually prevail on thispartof the coast, during nine winds ami
months of the year, or from September to June; when these winds blow strong, which "e^'i'si"-
often happens, the weather becomes very thick with rain, rendering the navigation un-
pleasant and hazardous. These north-easterly winds sometimes set in very early ; for
the Eaton, bound to Chusan, when off Amoy, 4th August, 1699, got N. E. winds, and
with much labour was six or seven weeks getting from thence to Chusan : the Limpo,
at this time bound to the same port, was forced to cut away her main and mizen masts,
and bear away from Macao; and Captain Hosier, in August and September, 1700,
could not make his passage to Chusan.
Fast-sailing vessels, nevertheless, can now effect a passage to the northward, even
against the North-east Monsoon; for the Sylph left Macao, October 20th, 18;32,
touched at several places on her passage along the eastern coast of China, reached
Shan-tung in a month from Macao, and anchored off Kae-chow-foo on the 28th
November, in lat. 40^ 30' N.
Small ships ought to be prepared against an attack from the Chin-chew Ladrones, Ladrones.
who have been numerous here, and at times, on other parts of the coast ; some of their
junks have 6 or 8 guns, and from 100 to 200 men.
The ship Ann, Captain John Churchman, from Timor Island, bound to Canton
River, with a cargo of sandal-wood and wax, was boarded by the Chinese Ladrones
near the Lema Islands, in 1808 : they killed the captain, officers, and all the crew, ex-
cept five or six Lascars : of these, three reached Canton in February, 1810, and related
the circumstance.
From Ting-hae the coast extends, as before, in a north-easterly direction, having
an almost continuous chain of islands fronting it, with rocks or rocky islets in several
places. TheDhaulle schooner. Captain Blaxland, in June, 1827, passed to the north-
ward along the coast inside the greater part of the islands, and touched at some of the
following places.
SEAON-MUN, Little Gate, or Pass, in lat. 26° 32' N., Ion. 120° 25' E., is a small seaon-mun.
passage formed l)etween the peninsula of Sam-sali and the contiguous islands to the
southward, called the Sam-sah Islands; the harbour on the N.W. side of the penin- sam-sah.
sula, where the Dhaulle anchored, seems to be sheltered by the latter from southerly
and easterly winds, and from northerly winds by the adjacent islands. Sani-sali is a
walled town on the main land to the westward of the harbour. Mr. M'Donald, mas-
ter of H.M.S. Melville, gives a sketch of the N. E. part of the Samsah Islands when
bearing N. 30°VV., representing it as a bold rocky headland, with a high detached
rock off it, seen from this bearing as just separated from the perpendicular cliff of the
point.
HOK-LING-SHAN PAGODA, in lat. 26°. 51' N., Ion. 120° 23' E., stands on the iiok.iing.si.H.,
north-west side of the bay, where the Dhaulle anchored near tiie south point. JVoda.
LE-SHAN, a group of the largest islands on this part of the coast, has an intricate u-simi.
1 K »> Islands.
436
CHINA, EAST COAST, — HIH-SHAN ISLANDS.
Pjh-kwan, and
other places.
Tae-ciiow-foo
Kiver.
Hih-shan
Islands.
channel between them and the main land, through which the DhauUe navigated. The
body of the group is in lat. 27° 3' N,, Ion, 120° 48' E,, and there is anchorage inside of
the islands at Tung-ho-mun, in lat. 26° 57' N,
PIH-KWAN, or White Mandarin Harbour, in lat, 27° 14' N,, Ion, 120° 46' E,, is
very little known, but said to be a spacious harbour, with shelter from all winds, by
changing the berth of anchorage, and is placed, by a late navigator who visited it, in lat.
27° 11' N„ Ion, 120° 22' E,
To the N.E, of Pih-kwan lie the Ping-fung-shan Islands, in lat, 27°22'N., Ion.
121° 5' E., and about 5^ leagues North of the latter, in lat. 27° 38' N,, Ion. 121° 3' E., lies
Ta-pe-pa-shan, or Great Musical Instrument Island, with Seao Pe-pa-shan, or Little
Musical Instrument Island, between them,
SAN-PAN-SHAN, or Three Boat Island, in lat, 28°0'N,, Ion, 121° 28' E., is the
outermost of several islands nearly fronting the inlet of the sea which leads to VVan-
chow-foo River and city, distant about 8 or 9 leagues to the westward. About 4 or
4^ leagues more northward lies Tehow-mun-shan, in lat, 28° 12' N., Ion. 121° 31' E., a
small island contiguous to the south point of the peninsula of the Bay of Tae-ping-
heen; and Song-mun-shan, in lat, 28°22' N,, Ion, 121° 38' E., lies near the eastern
part of that peninsula.
TAE-CHOW-FOO RIVER has several islands adjacent to the entrance, which is
in about lat. 28° 42' N,, Ion, 121° 26' E., and the city is about 8 or 8^ leagues up the
river to the W. N. Westward,
THE HIH-SHAN, or HEY-SAN (Black) ISLANDS, in lat. 28° 52' N., Ion.
121° 44' E., or, according to some recent navigators, in Ion, 122° 10' E., form a group
of considerable extent, having soundings of 22 fathoms near them on the outside, and
a safe passage inside, with soundings of 9 to 14 fathoms, as found by the Sylph, April 3rd,
1833, when the Hih-shan group bore from N, ^ E. to E. ^ N., Chik-hok, a remark-
able high island, W, by N., distant one mile, and the southernmost island in sight
S. by W. The tides run strong along the coast within these islands, the flood from
southward and the ebb from the northward.
shei-poo. SHEl-POO, in about lat, 29° 15'* N., Ion. 121° 40' E., situated at the head of a
beautiful basin, would be an excellent harbour, were it not for its narrow entrance ;
the rocks and isles outside, however, give tolerable shelter in an outer road. The
Sylph anchored here April 1st, 1833, and her journal furnishes the following in-
formation,
"At day-light April 1st, sailed from the anchorage at the Buffalo's Nose, Quesan
Islands, and at 11 a.m. anchored in 4^ fathoms water in Shei-poo Road, islands to
the southward bearing from E, by S, to S.S.E. ; southern entrance to the road S. by E. ;
fort on the hill (the larger of two) W, S. W. ; Ban-ga-boe Rock, in the entrance of the
road, E. by N, ; Ban-ga-oa Island, in the road, N.E. ; Keik-shuy-moon, the entrance
into the inner harbour, W, by N, ; Kin-pai-moon, the northern entrance into the an-
chorage, N. N. E. This place bears from the Buffalo's Nose S, by VV,, distant about
10 or 12 leagues. We sailed along the main land inside the islands, carrying from
Another account states it to be in lat. 29' 2' N., which perhaps may be nearest to the truth.
iisan
CHINA, EAST COAST.— CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 437
7 to SHathoms ; when Patahe-cock bore N. 6G°E., distant 18 miles, the depth in-
creased to 4 and 4^ fathoms, continuing until off the entrance of the road, which is
easily known by the ruins of a wall and two conspicuous forts ; it bears from the above-
named island about W. S.W. i S. 8,]- or 9 leagues. The entrance of the inner harbour
is not above 100 yards wide, but it Is deep, with rapid tides rushing in and out; it is
several miles in extent inside, completely land-locked, of beautiful aspect, and generally
contains many junks and innumerable fishing boats.
THE CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO, including the Quesan group, is that larire ci.u«
assemblage of islands, of which Chusan is the principal, lying near the main land, Archipelago.
between the parallels of 29° 20' and .31° 0' N. : that portion of it to the northward of
Chusan, that is, to the northward of 30° 10' N., is, however, unexplored, and may be
said to be as yet almost unknown. The following directions are given by Captain R.
Collinson, R.N., who surveyed these islands while employed as surveying officer to
the fleet in 1840-41.
"The Quesan, or more properly the Kewshan Group, consists of eleven Quesan
islands, besides several rocks, the largest of which is 3 miles long, its greatest breadth '''""*''•
is 1^ miles; in two places, however, it is not more than a cable and a cable and half
across. The other islands are much smaller, varying from three-quarters to one
quarter of a mile in extent. They are thickly populated, probably to the amount of
1,500, who principally obtain their subsistence by fishing. They have a considerable
number of goats, pigs, and fowls, and the sweet potatoe is cultivated on almost all the
islands, and during the winter forms the principal article of food."
" The south-easternmost island is called Pata-he-cock or Pa-tsze-keo ; its flat and Paw-he-eoek
table appearance will at once distinguish it from tiie neighbouring islands (the Hih-shin "**'""'''
group) which lie to the southward. Four small islets lie off its N. E. shore and one
off its south shore. The summit is about 450 feet above the level of the sea, and is in
lat. 29° 22' N., Ion. 122° 14' E."'
"The north-easternmost island of the group is a narrow clift' islet, uninhabited. To ne. uiand.
the westward are four small islets, inhabited and cultivated ; and Nortli of them,
3 cables, is a flat precipitous rock, the coloured appearance of which renders it remark-
able, being composed of porphyritic hornstone. The face of the islands may be ap-
proached without danger, the depth being 7 or 8 fathoms near the shore."
" The north-westernmost island is the second in size of the group, and attains an ele- n. w. island.
vation of 400 feet above the sea. Its northern extreme is remarkable, in consequence
of several isolated masses of rock."
" The body of the large island lies due South of the north-western island ; between the
two is a mud bank gradually shoaling to the shore of the large island. By keeping the
west extreme of the north-western island to the eastward of N.N. E. not less than 3
fathoms will be found, and good holding ground without much swell. The highest part
of the large island forms a sharp peak near its western extreme, and is 4.90 feet high . The
coast of the island is steep high cliffs, with the exception of six small sandy bays, and
is steep to on all sides except the north-western."
" South from the large island, and separated by a channel li cables wide, there is s w. island.
another island, which is also high, with steep clifls. Off its western point there is a
half-tide rock, and a reef also runs off from its S. E. extreme."
"The Holderness Rock lies W. by N. one mile from the highest part of this island ; Hoidemess
it has one fathom over it at low water, and breaks occasionally. From it the highest
part of the north-western island bears N.N.E. i E. A small peaked islet to the south-
438
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
^ E., the reef of
.SiiiiKon Rock.
Inhabitants.
Pirates.
(ape Mon-
tague.
llair-tide
liofk.
Titles.
Variation.
Whelps.
Starlioard
Jack,
Corkers.
Tiiiki'»
HiilTalo's Nose.
eastward S. E. ^ E., and the Table Hill of Pata-he-cock S. E. by E
rock.s ofl'the S. E. extreme of the island being in a line with it."
" Another sunken rock, with only three-quarters of a fathom on it, lies S. S. W.
three-quarters of a mile from the summit of the island South of the Large Quesan,
and W. by N. f N. from Pata-he-cock ; the eastern extreme of the large island being in
ime with the eastern extreme of the nearest island bearing N. E.
1 F "
2 -L-
"The inhabitants were civil, and sold their pigs, potatoes, and goats readily. Fresh
water (I should think) could not be procured in any quantity. During the expedition
against Chusan in 1840, H.M. S. Pylades encountered three pirate junks, one of which
was captured and burnt. The inhal)itants did not appear to participate at all in the crimes
of these marauders, and expressed themselves well pleased on their being driven away."
" Several small islets lie off Cape Montague ; with a depth of water close to them
of 4^ or 5 fathoms. The cape is in lat. 29° 10' N., Ion. 122° 5' E. There is a passage
between it and the main, which is used by the opium vessels and junks. Betwixt it
and Buffalo's Nose many deep inlets occur, which render the extremity of the conti-
nent doubtful."
" Tiiere is a Half-Tide Rock S.W. by S. from Pata-he-cock 7 or 8 miles, being in a
straight line between it and Cape Montague, and S. E.^S. 11 miles from the Bear, or
Ta-muh-yang (an island with a sharp peak at its eastern extreme.) It is uncovered
two-thirds of the tide High tides and smooth water sometimes preven tits being seen."
"The time of high water is 2h. 30m. before the moon's transit, and the rise 14 feet.
The change in the direction of the stream does not take place until two hours after the
change in depth. The flood tide comes from the southward, and seldom exceeds two
knots per hour. Variation of the compass 1° 57' W. in 1840."
" Between the Quesan group and the Bear, the depth of water varies from 3^ to
6 fathoms, gradually shoaling towards the latter. Two small groups of islets lie be-
tween Cape Montague and the Bear ; they are 5 miles from the main."
" From the N. E. extreme of the Quesan Islands, Buffalo's iNose bears N. W. by W.
10 miles ; a small rock (the Mouse), nearly level with the water at high tide, N. N. W.
(J miles ; the Whelps, a group of four small islands, W. by N. ^ N. 10 miles ; Star-
board Jack, a low, flat reef, with 2 rocks off its eastern end, N.W. 10 miles."
" Between the Whelps and the Buffalo's Nose are several isolated patches of
rock, called the Corkers ; the distance between which and Starboard Jack is .3| miles,
with a depth from 5 to 6 fathoms. The outer rock of the Corkers is occasionally
covered, and bears from the extreme of Buffalo's Nose S. S. E. f E. Two islets, a cable'.s
length farther to the westward, are always above water, and will give warning should
the sea not break on the outer rock."
"N.N.E., 1| miles from Starboard Jack, is the Tinker, a steep cliff rock, 80 feet above
the water. The passage between them has 6| fathoms water, and will be found an eli-
gible passage during the North-west Monsoon, as vessels will be further to windward
than in the usual track, and have better anchorage under Lowang than under Buffalo's
Nose. A sunken rock lies S. E. by E. from the Tinker (nearly in a line with the
Mouse) 2 cables distant."
" The Island of Buffalo's Nose is 1;^ miles from North to South, and three-quarters
of a mile from East to West. Its eastern shore is rocky, and off its western extreme lies
a small islet. The western shore has several steep inlets, one of which nearly sepa-
rates the island into two parts. There are three peaks on the island, the central one
of whicli is 500 feet high ; and near the northern extreme the island is perforated,
whence, I suppose, its name. The anchorage between this island and the Ploughman
CHINA, EAST COAST,— CUUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 439
is secure. During the Nortli-west Moiisoon, liowevtr, the wind blows directly tlirough,
and occasional violent squalls are experienced. Fresh provisions and water may be
obtained here, but the supply of the latter is not always certain. On the main, -2 miles
distant, are several villages, tlie inhabitants of which endeavoured to intimidate us
from landing."
"The largest island of the Ploughman Group lies W. IN.W. nearly one mile from Piougimiai.
Buffalo's Nose, the depth of water between the two varying from 5 to lU fathoms. It is ^'''""'''
an even, flat-topped island, with a reef extending from its N. E. extreme. Anotiier
reef lies N.W. by N. 4 cables from the same point. The other two islands are small,
and lie to the N.W. of tlie larger one. The junks usually pass inside the Ploughman
and the Buffalo, and to the westward of the Corkers. The passage is not recommended
for square-rigged vessels, as there are many reefs and the tides are strong."
" The islands of JVJesan and Lanj ett lie three-quarters of a mile to the N. E. of tlie Mesan and
Tinker ; there is deep water in the passage between them, but sunken rocks lie off" J^"",jj"
both shores. There are four larger and several smaller islets ; tiie largest is not a mile
in extent, and is about 400 feet high ; its barren summit forms one of the most re-
markable features in the Buffalo's Nose passage."
" Between this group and Front Island, wliich lies 3 miles to the N.E., is the en- HaiWour
trance of a harbour convenient in the North-west Monsoon. A small castellated rock ^^''"''■'■
lies near the centre of the harbour, and the depth of water varies from 5 to 9 fathoms."
" The south face of Lowang (tiie largest of the islands in tiie southern part of the south side of
archipelago) has two deep indentations with sandy bays, and a reef extends from the """"^■
point opposite Mesan and Lanjett 3 cables. The reefs also extend from tlie northern
extreme of the Mesan and Lanjett group 5 cables, narrowing the passage to less than
a mile. From the small castellated rock before mentioned, a N.W. by W.fW. course will
carry you to Tree-a-top (a small island now without a tree on it), at the entrance of
Gough and Duffield Passage, and keep a mid-channel course between the reefs. The
coast line of Lowang inunediately after tiie reef point trends to the northward, forming a
deep bay tliat extends to the entrance of Duffield Passage. South one mile from the fust
island in the bay there is a mud-bank, with 3^ fothoms, to avoid which the island may
be kept on board, keeping clear of a rock which lies iialf a cable from its south extreme."
" From this island to Duffielu Reef (a group of rocks lying off' the western side of DtiiHeM lUei.
the entrance to Dutfield Passage, with a sunken rock between them and Lowang) there
are from 5 to 9 fathoms, good holding ground."
" From the anchorage off" Buffalo's Nose, Tree-a-top Island bearsN.^W.of miles; Tree-a-to,.
it is about 4 cables in circumference, and 180 feet high. There is a pile of stones on '''"'"'•
its summit, but no tree."
" Duffield Passage — that is, the passage between the islands of Lowang and Foo- Dumeia
too-shan — is the nearest towards Keto Point. When between Diidicld Reef and P"**'*"^-
Tree-a-top Island, the water suddenly deepens from 5^ to 40 fatlioms ; the course
through is N. N. E. 3| miles. It is 1:1 miles broad at the entrance, and o cables at
the narrowest part. On the Foo-too-shan siiore are several islets, and off' the fourth
point in the Lowang shore is a reef one cable from the shore. The Notches, two The N.-t.-h.-.
small islands, lie immediately opposite to the reef; the Lowang shore, otherwise, is
very steep to, 35 tathoms within a cable's length of the mud. On tlie Foo-too-shan
side, among the islets, the water shoals to 4^ and o I'athoms, where a ship may stop a
tide, if necessary."
"Between the Notches and Foo-too-shan there is a half-tide rock ; unless it shews, uaif-tide rock,
vessels should not tack inside the Notches so as to pass to the westward of them."
440
CHINA, EAST COAST.— CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Bird Rock.
Gougli
Passage.
Robert
Tides.
.Junk Passage.
I.owaiig
Island.
Foo-too-slian.
Central Isles.
" The Bird Rock lies near the north end of the passage, and has a stone pillar upon
it; it is one cable from the shore. The distance from hence to Roundabout Island is
9milesN.N. E.iE.*"
" GouGH Passage, by far the best of any leading to Chusan, is formed by Foo-too-
shan on the East, and the central islands, four in number, on the West. Jn the pas-
sage both shores are steep to, but ofl' the southern islet of the central group is a slioal,
of which the lead will give warning. The passage is 1^ miles through, and 5 cables
wide."
" Robert Passage is formed by the central islands and the mud extending
from Shang-Meishan on the West, which dries one mile from the solid ground. The
boundary of the passage westerly, therefore, is not known, except at low water, the lead
giving no warning ; the depth of water varies from 6 to 40 fathoms. The channel is
If miles through, and 5 cables wide. The course, after you are through these two
passages, for Keto Point, will be N.E. | N. 9^ miles."
" Anchorage will be found anywhere along the Keto shore, until you are past Sing-
lo-shan Island. As there is no anchorage beyond this, until you get to Elephant Island,
ships are advised not to proceed unless they have sufficient wind and tide to carry
them in."
"In these passages the first of the flood often comes from the northward, and runs
sometimes for three hours before it takes the direction of the ocean tide."
" Between Shang Meishan and the Keto shore there is a narrow passage, 2^ cables
wide. It has 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, until you arrive at the southern extreme, where it
shoals considerably ; not more than 10 feet were obtained : some part of the channel,
however, may be deeper, as only one line of soundings was obtained across the en-
trance of the channel. Near the centre of the passage on the Keto shore tiiere was
a custom-house, and the entrance to a canal, which communicated with two populous
villages. Two miles to the northward of the entrance to this passage is the walled
town of Ko-keu-so, apparently a military station, from the interruption they gave to our
surveying operations in 1840."
" The islands which form the several passages may be here briefly described."
" Lowang or Luh-wang, is 9^ miles long and 6 miles broad at the western extreme ;
near the centre of the island it is a little more than 2 miles across, and in some parts very
little elevated above the sea. The south-eastern body of the island rises to a height of
865 feet, being a conical bare hill. On the isthmus is an isolated peak. On the
]N.W. side of the island are five peaks, the highest of which is 920 feet above mean
tide level. The south-western coast has been already described ; that to the West in
Duffield Passage has several small bays, with stone embankments stretching from
point to point, by which means a considerable quantity of land has been gained from the
sea. The points of these bays form nearly a straight line ; beyond the Bird Rock,
the coast line trends to the N. E. Cape Lowang, the northern extreme of the island,
is high and bold. The island is 26 miles in circumference, and is very populous."
"Foo-too-shan is not quite 3 miles long and one mile broad. The south extreme forms
a narrow point, and is connected at low water with St. Andrew Island. The channel
between the south point and Tree-a-top is 3^ cables wide, and has deep water. A spit
runs ofl' the northern extreme of Foo-too-shan, to the northward of which are three
small islands."
" The south-westernmost of the Central Isles is a small islet, which is connected at
low water with the next island by a spit and a reef. This is the largest of the group,
* N. E. by N. by the chart
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 441
being a quarter of a mile long. It is the resort of several fishermen, whose stakes and
nets in 7 flithoms water will be seen to the southward."
" Shang-mei-shan appears formerly to have been eight islands, now however united shang-
by substantial stone walls, one of which is U- miles in extent. The mud rises li, miles '""'-'''""•
from its southern extreme, and 21 cables from the northern. Ofl' the N. E. side are
two small islands, from the northernmost of which the 3 fathoms line extends i cables
northerly. By keeping the central island open of the two islands mentioned above,
until you are past them half a mile, the shoal will be avoided, and the Keto shore will
be approached."
" The next passage to Buffalo's Nose is called Taou-sow-moon by the Chinese. The xaou-sow-
entrance to it is N. f E. 18 miles from the north extreme of Quesan Islands. The island '"'""'■
called Beak Head forms its S.W. extreme, off the east end of which lie three small islets,
and two hummocks near the end of the island render it sufficiently remarkable. Be-
tween the Beak and Front Island are three islets and a rock, which with Lowang form
Harbour Rouse. There is a narrow passage between Lowang and the Beak Head,
having 3^ fathoms, but there would be no object in using it while there are other pas-
sages so much superior. The Beak Head is 5 miles long, and 1^; miles from its Keak Head
eastern extreme is very narrow. Two reefs lie close in shore upon its N. E. side. '*''""^
The distance across to Vernon Island or Kea-ke is 2f miles, witii IB or 20 fathoms
water. Near the western extreme of the Beak the channel narrows to 5 cables, and
there is no bottom with 34 fathoms. The channel is bounded by a reef of rocks, the
northernmost of which is always above water, on the South ; and an island, with a
conical hill and two islets on its south side, on the North. This island is situated
mid-way between Vernon Island and the Beak Head. Between it and the former are
two small islets and a reef, which render the channel on that side more intricate."
" Having steered N.W. by W.^ W. 8^ miles from the entrance, you will pass another
island, to the N.W. of which good anchorage will be found in 9 and 10 fathoms. The
same course 4 miles farther will carry you clear of the passage. On the north side of
the channel are 4 small islets, and between them and Taou-hwa-shan is an archipelago
of reefs and islands. There is a passage through into Hea-ke-moon, but it should not
be attempted without local experience."
" On the Lowang side is a reef, and an islet with a small pinnacle on it. The reef luef.
bears S. E. by S. from Cape Lowang, and is generally uncovered. The mud dries
7 cables off Lowang in the bight ; vessels therefore beating througli should not
stand in towards this shore, so as to bring Cape Lowang to the northward of the bear-
ing given above to avoid the reef: on this side of Lowang it will be found diflicult to
land except at high water."
" The South-east passage, or Hea-ke-moon, lies 5 miles farther to the northward. Hea-ke-moon.
It is formed by Vernon Island on the South, and Taou-hwa-shan on the North."
"The east end of Vernon Island is rugged, with large boulders of granite. There is Vemon Ukind.
a cove at this end of the island, which runs in three-quarters of a mile, and would afford
good shelter to boats. The island is 5 miles long ; on the N.E. side is a long bay, with
two islets and a reef in it, where vessels may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, and procure
water from the opposite island of Taou-hwa-shan. There are several cascades, and
the water might be obtained without removing the casks from the boats. The pas-
sage at the entrance is 1^ miles broad : (J miles within, it narrows to 3] cables. Two
small islands and some rocks on the Taou-liwa-slian side, and an island which has a
sharp peak, and a sunken rock half a cable from its north extreme, form the bounda-
VOL. II. 3 L
442 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Taou-iiwa- j.jgg j'^f. Taou-livva-shaii shore, except in the vicinity of these islets, is steep to, and
the hills bold and precipitous. The peak rises to the height of 1,680 feet ; near the
western end, the island becomes low ; rising, however, again towards the extreme, where
it is surmounted by a huge pinnacle, which will be recognized nearly throughout the
S. E. part of the archipelago."
" Tlie depth of water in the channel is 60 fathoms in some parts, and the tides are
strong. It will, however, be found a convenient passage to sea from Chusan during
the TMorth-west Monsoon, the distance from Elephant Island to the open sea being only
17 miles by this passage ; but it should not be attempted in light winds, as vessels are
liable to be becalmed, and to experience flaws under the high land of Taou-hwa-shan.
The passage is 8 miles through, and from its N.W. entrance to Roundabout Island the
distance is 5 miles N. W. ^ N."
saiah Galley " Sarah Galley Passage is by no means so eligible as those passages already men-
Passage. lioncd. The entrance is N. by E. 21 miles from the Quesan group, and near it will be
seen the Jansen Rock, a steep cliff islet, with a reef 1^ cables from the eastern extreme.
Another rock, uncovered at half-tide, bears from the Jansen W. 25° N. If miles.
From it the highest part of Oswamong (Ou-sha-kan) Island bears N. 15° E. If miles,
and the highest part of Taou-hwa-shan W. ^ S. The coast line of Oswamong is high
cliffs, and off the western extreme is a ledge of rocks. Oswamong is called Woosha or
Usha (that is, black sand) by the Chinese."
" West of Oswamong 5 cables are two patches of rock, lying N.E. ^ N. and S.W.^ S.
from each other, not quite 2 caljles apart. From the S. Western patch, the Jansen
bears S. E. f S., and a flat peaked island between them and Taou-hwa-shan W. by S. \ S.
Very high tides may cover them, but they are usually above water, "^fhe distance be-
tween them and some rocks extending from the north extreme of the flat peaked island
is 7 cables. There is no bottom with 31 fathoms in the vicinity of the rocks ; after
passing which, the course is North '2^ miles, leaving two small islets, with a reef between
them, to the westward. The channel is here 7 cables broad, between Teng-fow on the
West, and an island with a hut on the summit, and a reef of rocks off its south extreme,
to the eastward."
" From hence the course is N. N.W. f W. 1-7 miles ; the channel is now \^ miles broad,
between a small island, with two hummocks on it, and an island to the northward, with
a building, something similar to a Druid ical temple, on its summit. Between this
island and Choo-kea-tseen the mud dries nearly all the way, leaving only a small passage
for boats. In standing over to the Choo-kea-tseen shore, vessels should not bring a
small flat islet, with two rocks off its S. E. extreme, to bear to the westward of W. 15° N.,
as the depth of water decreases very suddenly."
" Offthe south end of the island with the Druids' temple on it, the mud dries 1| cables.
From mid-channel here, the small flat island above mentioned, which is at the N.W.
extreme of the Sarah Galley Passage, bears W. N.W. 2^ miles."
" Before reaching it, the S. E. extreme of Chusan will be seen. There is a building
constructed of slabs of stone (similar to the one on the island) on the hills over the
point, and a small tower and fort near the water's edge. From the Flat Island to
Roundabout Island, the distance is 7^ miles W. 7° S."
" Between Choo-kea-tseen and Oswamong there is another passage, 2 cables wide,
which may be used with a fair wind, by which means reefs in tiie Sarah Galley Passage
will be avoided. Offthe east end of Oswamong there is a small island."
" The passage between Teng-fow and Taou-hwa-shan is very narrow in one part."
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 443
"CHOO-KEA-TSEENis6miles from North to South ; the coast line has many deep inden- fiioo-kea-
tations, some of which are enclosed from the sea by stone walls. Near the southern ex-
treme are four high peaks, and near the centre of the island is a smooth cone-topped
one, which is 1,104 feet above the sea, and forms one of tiie most remarkable features
in this part of the archipelago. On the north face of the island are several sandy bays,
and the hills in this neighbourhood are covered with large isolated masses of granite."
" Ofl'the N.E. extreme is a group, consisting of five islands, called Loka by the Chi- Loca islands
nese; and to the eastward are three small islets, the easternmost of which is 8^ miles rock.
distant. A Half-tide Rock bears E. by S. ^ S. 7 miles from the conical hill." ci.usan.
"The Island of Chusan, so called from its supposed resemblance to a boat, is 5H
miles in circumference; its extreme length being 21 miles in a N.W. and S. E.
direction. The greatest breadth in any part is 10^ miles. From tlie beach at Ting-
hae to the northern shore the distance is 7 miles. Towards the east end of the island
it becomes narrower ; never, however, being under 6 miles."
" THE TING-HAE HARBOUR is difficult of access in all its approaches, owing Ting-i.ae
to the strong tides and sunken rocks ; the best passage is that round Tower Hill
and between Bell and Tea Islands, in which no hidden danger has been found : the
tides, however, set at the rate of 3 and 3^ knots, and vessels in light winds must be
careful that they are not set into the archipelago between Tea and Elephant Islands,
where the ground is foul and the narrow channels deep. Between Tower Hill and
Bell Island from 30 to 50 fathoms will be found ; both islands are steep to."
" From off Roundabout Island the course for vessels bound to Ting-hae by the western or
Western or Tower Hill Passage is W. by N. 8 miles; when, having passed the south p^^^^e."'"
point of Tower Hill Island (Ta-raaou-shan), you can haul up, steering first for Bell
Island (Ha-tse), and then for Tea Island (Pon-tse-shan) ; or intending to enter the
harbour by the Ho-chow-moon or South Passage by Elephant Island, the cotirse is
N.W. by N. 44 miles. Care should be taken to keep well to the northward, otherwise,
in light winds, the flood tide will set vessels past Tower Hill, and no anchorage will
be found until in the neighbourhood of Just-in-the-way."
" Anchorage. Between Bell and Tea Islands eligible anchorage in from f) to 12
fathoms will be found by keeping in mid-channel. On proceeding from thence to the
inner harbour care should be taken to avoid the strength of the tide, which, unless
there is a breeze, will set you through the southern passage : the anchoring grouiul
on the Chusan shore is steep to, and the tides are irregular, but it is convenient for
watering. A sunken rock, with 3 fathoms over it, lies due South from a small hill
near tlje shore in the valley 2^ cables off shore. The middle ground in the inner har-
bour has but two feet in its shoalest part."
" Middle Ground. Tower hill in one with the slope on the southern ri.^e of Tea Middle
Island will keep you in 4 fathoms: the 3 fathoms line extends witliin 2f cables of
the island of Wae-woo-kwei-san, which must be steered for after passing Guard-house
Island, one cable in width; and also between the Middle Ground and the shore of
Chusan, there are 15 or 10 fathoms, the distance being 1^ cables. The channel
between Guard-house Island and Chusan is fit only for boats."
" The Strait or South Channel, between Deer and Elephant Islands, is an un- stn,itorSo,.iii
safe entrance ; two sunken rocks lie near the centre of the passage, vlncli narrow it to
If cables. Vessels should not attempt the passage, unless they have a commandmg
breeze, and are acquainted with the localities of the rocks and the set of the tides^
The outside anchorage for this passage is abreast of Elephant Island, in 10 and 17
3 L 2
444 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
fathoms ; the holding- ground, however, is not good, and vessels entering farther will
find deeper water and stronger tides, and it is by no nneans so well sheltered as that
between Bell and Tea Islands."
Elephant " Elephant Island (Tsik-ya-shan) is remarkable for a curious crag near thesum-
isiand. j^^jj.^ jjj^j cannot be mistaken. Beyond Round Island (a small islet to the N. E. of
Elephant Island) the water deepens from 28 to 34 fathoms until you arrive at the South-
ern Rock,* which liesS. 63° E. 2 cables from the Black Rock, and N. 75° E. if cables
from the ledge extending from the island to the southward of Tea Island ; the marks for
it are the Joss-house, on the hill near the suburbs, shewing between Trumball and Sarah
Galley Islands, and Cap Rock on with the saddle of Kin-tang or Silver Island. The
rock has but 9 feet over it at low water springs. The Northern Rock lies N. 3° W. If
cables from it, and has also 9 feet on its shoalest part ; in extent it is larger than the
others, and steep toon all sides. The marks for it are, the north extreme of Black Rock
touching the mound on Cap Island, the Joss-house Hill seen clear of Trumball Island,
and a bushy tree on the S. E. slope of Sarah Galley Island in line with the square bea-
con on the hills."
"The navigation of the passage is rendered more difficult in this immediate neigh-
bourhood, by the tides which meet from four different channels forming eddies, which
render vessels totally unmanageable in high winds. From the sunken rocks to Wae-
woo-kwei-san there is no danger, and by hauling close round the latter island the
middle ground will be avoided."
" To avoid these dangers the best direction is to keep the western shore on board,
taking care to avoid the ledge of rocks which extend three-quarters of a cable from the
island. South of the Cap and Black Rock ; the latter is steep to. At this part of the
channel the bottom is rocky and the depth very irregular. Having passed Sarah
Galley Island, steer for Macclesfield Island (Wae-woo-kwei-san), which may be
rounded close to avoid the Middle Ground."
Deer Island *' Deer Island Passage is another channel, which is preferable to the one last
Passage. named ; it is between Deer Island (Seao-keu-shan) and Sarah Galley Island ; it is
If cables wide, and the sunken rocks are avoided by iieeping Deer Island on board. A
mud spit extends three-quarters of a cable's length from the north end of Deer Island,
but it does not interfere with the passage. The N. E. beacon may be approached on
either side within a quarter of a cable, and the Chusan shore is steep to. Abreast
Ta-woo-kwei-san the passage narrows to one cable, but the danger is marked by a
stone beacon, which shews at all times of tide. West of the beacon is a slioal patch,
which, by keeping the Chusan side until Sarah Galley shuts in with Trumball, will be
avoided. It has 9 feet water on the shoalest part,"
" Between Trumball and Sarah Galley Islands there is a convenient anchorage in
9 and 10 fathoms; the 3 fathoms line extends 3J cables south-easterly from Trumball,
but by bringing the south extreme of Wae-woo-kwei-san in line with the highest part
of Tea Island, its extreme limit will be marked. This passage offers the advantage of
being the only one in which the same tide will carry you into the harbour."
" Ships bound from Chusan to Ningpo should pass between Bell and Tower-hill
Islands, and not between Bell Island and Chusan ; as in the latter passage there are
some sunken rocks, besides those upon which the beacon stands, and the tides are
very rapid."
TinghaeCity. "The city of TiNGHAE is 1 mile and 8 cables in circumference, and is surrounded
by a wall, 14 feet 9 inches high and 13 feet wide, surmounted by a parapet, 14 feet
* This rock is called Melville Rock in the Admiralty Chart, H. M. S. Melville having struck on it.
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 445
6 inches high and 2 feet wide : the south face runs East and West, the west face North
and South ; the east face runs North 350 yards, and then North-west. The north
face is irregular on the north-west side; the city is overlooked by a hill, part of which
is enclosed by the wall. A canal, 33 feet wide and 3 feet deep, nearly encircles the
city, and enters it near the south gate."
" Canals form the principal means of transportation, the roads being merely foot- canais.
paths: every large field has its canal for tlie purpose of carrying away the produce."
" There are four gates, each of which has two arched entrances, one being at right
angles to the other; the arch of the outer one is 7 feet G indies wide and i) feet high ;
the principal streets are 17 feet wide, and badly flagged; the houses are irregularly
and badly built, and generally of one story."
" The south gate is 5^ cables from the sea ; a canal and paved footpath lead from the
suburbs : the principal means, however, of communicating with the sea is by a canal
further to the East."
" Large quarries of hornstone porphyry are found in the north-west extreme of the
island, from which large blocks are hewn. The stone beacon on one of the reefs is a
circular pillar, 13 feet high and 5 feet in circumference. Mill-stones and slabs of this
appear to be an article of exportation."
" In the preparation of salt from sea water, great numbers appear to be occupied
during the summer. A distillery of spirit from rice and a manufactory of mats form
other means of employment."
" Water is not good, and is sometimes scarce; the tanks in the rice fields near the waterami
sea being the only supply, excepting wells, which afford but a limited quantity; no ""'" *"Pp''"-
running streams have been found. The place latterly adopted for watering by the men-
of-war is in the bay West of Guard-house Island."
" Fresh beef is plentiful, bullocks selling at from 8 to 15 dollars. Goats, ducks,
pigs, and fowls, are also to be had at a reasonable rate ; vegetables of all kinds are plen-
tiful, and good sweet potatoes, forming the staple of the people's food. The ridges of all
the hills are cultivated in the most careful manner, the barren spots been devoted f(tr
their burial-grounds. Extensive stone embankments prevent the encroachment of
the sea on the rice fields, and a vast quantity of valuable land has been gained in this
way from the sea."
" During the month of September, the thermometer in the shade ranged from 71° to reinperntiire.
102°, its average height during the day being 85°. The prevalent winds during the
month were from the eastward, and the weather was very fine."
" The range of temperature in the month of October is from 51° to 92° : the prevalent
winds during this month were from north-westwaid. The barometer, generally speak-
ing, stands high, and rises with strong north-westerly breezes sometimes to 30-34 inches:
during tliis month much rain fell, and the sky was generally overcast."
♦' A tide register was kept during the day at the observatory, by the signal- xicus.
man, and upon full and change days equal levels were observed by either Mr.
Symonds or myself, which give for the time of high Mater on those days, one hour
before the moon's transit ; scarcely any change takes place in the deptli of \\ ater
three-quarters of an hour previous and subseipient to tiie time of high water, but
at low water the change occurred more rapidly ; the extreme rise and fall observed
was 12 feet 3 inches, ordinary tides 5 to 7 feet. Strong westerly winds sometimes
cause a diflerence of 2 feet in the rise and fall. In all the channels, generally speak-
ing, the change in the direction of the stream does not take place until Ih. 40in. after
446 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
the change in the depth : at the anchorage off the Elephant from the S. E., and
between Bell and Tea Islands, ships flood-rode tend to the northward."
Position. "The latitude of the observatory was determined by circum-meridian altitudes of
stars, vvith a small azimuth and altitude instrument, the result of which gives 30° 0' 19"
North : tiie longitude was determined by a series of moon culminations, 68 in number,
which, worked with the moon's computed right ascension, give 8h. 8m. 20s. easterly.
A short run from Loo-choo, in H.M.S. Cruiser, enabled me to connect Captain
Beechey's position of that place with the observatory, and it differs only 2m. 5s. to the
East: the meridian distances by the different ships from Singapore range from
121° 58' to 122° 20'. Few of the ships, however, had opportunities of obtaining rates
for their chronometers."
" In the foregoing remarks, the names of the islands have been taken from Thornton's
Chart."
Ports in the " Besidcs the city of Ting-hae, there are three other commercial ports on the island :
island. ^^^ Sing-kea-moon, Sing-kong, and Siao-sha-ao."
" The first is situated at the S. E. extreme of the island ; the town is close to the
water's edge, and is a miserable assemblage of huts. The principal occupation of the
inhabitants is fishing; about 35 junks of 80 to 100 tons, carrying 30 to 35 men, and
200 smaller boats, each carrying 5 men, are employed for this purpose. The harbour
is formed by the Island of Lowka, which is divided into six parts at high water, and is
1^ cables wide, with 4^ and 5 fathoms abreast of the town. The S.W. entrance lies
between Lowka and Siao-kan, and has not more than 2^ fathoms at low water. A reef
and mud spit extend easterly from Siao-kan one cable, and the mud extends westerly
from Lowka 4^ cables. H.M.S. Pylades lay at anchor, between Siao-kan and Chusan,
in 5 fathoms, the width here being 2^ cables. The high land on the Chusan shore,
600 feet, occasioned the squalls during the North-west Monsoon to be sometimes very
violent. H. M. S. Conway lay at anchor to the westward of Lowka, with the small
flat island at the entrance of Sarah Galley Passage bearing West three-quarters of a
mile, in 5 fathoms."
" The distance from Sing-kea-moon to Ting-hae is 1 H miles. The channel along the
Chusan shore has deep water ; it is not, however, available for ships, owing to a number
of small islets 3 miles east of the suburbs, which render the passage narrow and
crooked. This spot is called by the Chinese Ske-ln-moon, or the Sixteen Passages.
Several islands with extensive mud-banks confine the channel beyond to a cable's
width ; in some places it is only half a cable wide. Vessels, therefore, bound from
Ting-hae to Sing-kea-moon, must use one of the passages already described in the
sailing directions for Ting-hae ; or by passing to the northward of Deer Island and
the island East of it and South of Ao-shan. This passage has deep water, except at
the S.E. entrance, where there is only 3 fathoms."
" In the bay between Takan and Ao-shan there is shoal water ; to avoid which,
vessels should not stand so far to the northward as to bring the reef of rocks off the
south point of Ao-shan in a line with the crag on the summit of Elephant Island."
" The deep water extends 2^ miles to the eastward of Roundabout Island, from
whence to the entrance of the Sarah Galley Passage there is anchorage all the way."
ciianneibe- "The channel between the east end of Chusan and the Island of Pooto has only
If fathoms at low water, and off the S. E. end of Chusan is only 2 cables wide, owing
to a reef, with a stone pillar on it, near the centre of the passage. After rounding the
flat island with the two rocks oft' it, the beacon will be seen N. 35° E. Vessels should
tween Pooto
and Cliusan
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 447
stand to the eastward, so as to bring it in a line with a cliff islet off the N. E. extreme
of Chusan ; which is the leading mark up to it in the deepest water. Care must be
taken not to approach too close either to the Lowka sliore or to the shore of the island
with the Druid's temple on it; shoal water extending 3^ cables from the former, and
6 cables from the latter."
" Pass between the Beacon Rock and Chusan, and bring the knob or cliff island
mentioned above in a line with a building (formed of slabs of stone) on the summit of
the flat peninsula at the N. E. end of Chusan. Steer for them until the north end of
Loka (the group of islets N. E. of Choo-kea-tseen) opens to the nortinvard of a flat,
peaked rock South of Pooto, when you may keep over towards the latter ; the water
will deepen suddenly from 2 to 0, and then 12 fathoms. The 2^ fathoms line extends
If miles, and some hard casts were obtained on the Hat; vessels therefore should cross
it under easy sail. After passing the flat, a small islet will be seen three-quarters
of a mile to the northward, which may be steered for if bound to the north side of the
islands. A reef extends a short distance east of the Knob Island, on the Chusan side,
and another 2 cables from the N.W. point of Pooto."
" Between the peaked rock to the southward of Pooto (mentioned as the mark for
crossing the flat) and that island, there is good anchorage in 10 and 12 fathoms water.
From Pooto to the rock the distance is 7 cables. Good water may be obtained from
a well near a joss-house, in a sandy bay at the S.W. extreme."
" The Island of Pooto is 3^ miles from the S.E. point of Chusan, and 1|^ miles from Pooto isiand.
the east point ; the channel is termed by the Chinese Lien-hwa-yang. The island is
3^ miles long, and in one part is only half a mile broad. Anarrow projecting point
extends from the west side, forming a sandy bay, with 3 fathoms in it. A stream runs
into the bay, which might be used during the North-west Monsoon by vessels in want
of water. There are two reefs in the bay, but they are always above water. This
island and Choo-kea-tseen belongs to the priests of Budha. The temples on the for-
mer are very numerous, the largest of which is situated on the west side of the island ;
a broad flagged road leads to it from the south side."
" SiNG-KONG, or Chin-keang harbour, is situated at the western extreme of the sing.kong.
Island of Chusan, and is distant 7^ miles from Ting-hae ; it is formed by the three
islands Waiteao, Chungteao, and Leteao and Chusan. From Chusan Inner Harbour
to the S.W. point of Chusan the distance is 4 miles. The passage between Bell
Island and Chusan is not recommended ; near the centre is a half-tide rock, with a
beacon on it, and to the S.W. of it two cables a rocky patch, with only three-fourths of
a fathom on it. Vessels, therefore, bound to Sing-kong, had better use the passage
between Bell Island and Tower Hill. Should, however, the other be used, that part
between the Beacon and Chusan will be found the best. Between Kiddisol. or Yang-
lo-shan, the channel is H cables, and there is deep water. On a hill near the S.W.
part of Chusan are three beacons, similar to those in the vicinity of Ting-hae. From
the point, the coast line trends to the N.W., and is mud all the way to the point of Sing-
kong Harbour, with the exception ofa small inlet, to the N. E. of which there is a hill
with a single beacon on it. Anchorage will be found all along this shore in from 10 to
12 fathoms."
"A small islet, called the Steward, or Paun-yang, lies mid-way between Cliusan ^^eward
and Kintang. There is deep water, 45 fathoms, in its vicinity, and also between it
and Kintang; 2 cables to the eastward there is a rocky patch, on which 9 fatlioms were
found. A reef of rocks (the Pelican Rock) always above water lies off the S.W. point
448 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
of Waiteao, and a mud-bank extends from the island nearly to the reef. Between
Waiteao and Chusan the distance is 6 cables, with 7 and 8 fathoms water — the mud
extends tliree-qiiarters of a cable from the island. On the Chusan shore is a fort, which
can only be approached by the embankments."
" Oj)posite the Island of Chung-teao the channel is rather le.ss than a cable wide, with
7 fatlioms water, and takes a north-easterly direction ; the width does not increase until
you are past the Island of Leteao, opposite to which is the landing place and the mouth
of a stream. There are a few houses near the beach, but the town is situated a mile
inland. The stream is navigable for boats up to it at high water. Upon the islands
forming the harbour, and also on the point at the entrance, are extensive quarries."
"The passage through is ]| miles, and being both narrow and crooked, is only avail-
able for steamers or small vessels."
Kuisii Island. " To tiic northward of Leteao is a flat island, called Kutsu ; a reef of rocks ex-
tends from it towards Chusan, narrowing the passage to one cable ; in it there is no
bottom with 30 fathoms. Between Kutsu and Blackwall, or Tsat-seu, the distance is
3 cables."
" The eastern side of Blackwall has several deep bays, and a rock lies 1^ cables from
the N. E. extreme. The depth of water between this point and Chusan varies from
12 to 19 fathoms."
Kiii-tmig. " From the Steward to Kin-tang the distance is 2 miles ; near the S. E. extreme of the
latter is a remarkable Saddle Peak, 1,433 feet high, which with the Cap Rock forms one
of the marks for the southern sunken rock in the How-chow-moon. There is a penin-
sula connected by mud, which is overflowed at high water, at the S. E. point, from which
a ledge of rocks extends ; the south-western part of the ledge is always above water.
Nearly opposite Sing-kong there is another peak, on Kin-tang, which is 1,519 feet
high."
" Vessels bound from Sing-kong to Siao-sha-ao, or to sea by the N.W. passage, must
bear in mind that there is no anchorage after leaving Sing-kong until to the north-
Avard of Blackwall, the distance being 6 miles."
" The channel between Kin-tang and Blackwall is half a mile wide ; a small islet lies
off" the S. W. extreme of the latter, from the summit of which Ching-hae, at the entrance
of the river leading to Ningpo, may be seen over Kin-tang. The islet is steep to, and
there is deep water between it and Blackwall. After passing the islet there is a long
bay in Blackwall Island, from the north point of which a reef extends 1^ cables. Off
the north extreme of Kin-tang there is a group of five islands."
liioken isiami. " The northern rock off Broken Island, or Mamu, bears from the north extreme of
Blackwall, N. 15° E. (i^ miles ; between it and Broken Island there is a good channel.
The latter is connected with Chusan at low water, and is about 700 feet high. The
ridge of hills at tlie N. E. end of Chusan rises to the height of 701 feet, and on the
hills are three beacons. To the N.W. of Broken Island, 3 miles, there is a group of
one large and four smaller islets."
siao-siiai.o. " The entrance to the harbour of Si ao-sha-ao is between Broken and Fisher Islands,
(Chung-j)ih-shan\ and is cables wide. Broken Island is steep to, except on the S. E.
side, where it joins Chusan. The 3 fathoms line extends 5 cables off the west side of
Fisher Island. The harbour is formed by this island and Chusan ; it is 2 miles long
and 1| broad, with a depth of water from 5 to 9 fathoms ; it is sheltered from all winds,
and is easy of ingress and egress. The coast of Chusan is lined with a mud-bank, which
renders landing difficult except in one spot at the east end of the harbour, unless it be
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 449
high water. Near the landing place are a few houses ; the town is some distance up
the valley. The south shore of Fisher Island is also an extensive mud-bank, a con- Fisher island.
siderable portion of which is enclosed by walls from the sea. Oft' the S. E. extreme of
the island, the 3 fathoms line extends 5 cables: the depth decreases gradually, so that
the lead will give warning. The eastern entrance to tlie harbour is 8 cables wide. A
small islet and a rock lie off'tiie north end of Fisher Island, and a group of 4 islets oft'
the N. E. extreme. These may be rounded close, passing between the four islets and
three others further to the eastward."
" Vessels intending to go to the eastward from Siao-sha-ao may pass between Shep- Passage east-
pey (Lan-seu), and Cliusan, or to the northward of Sheppey. The latter is the siXao"^ ^'''°'
better passage of the two : the former is 2 cables wide in the narrowest part. On leav-
ing Siao-sha-ao, keep along the Chusan shore, passing a rocky point with an islet oft'
it ; a cliff" rock, the outer of three islets, will then be seen to the westward. Pass to the
northward, or between it and the Hornblend islets (three islets on the west side of
.Sheppey). Two miles and a half to theS.E., a clift' island, with a peak on its south
end, will be seen ; and abreast of it, on the Chusan shore, are three islets. The chan-
nel lies between these three and the cliff" island, off' the S.E. point of which is a small
islet, with two rocks off' its S.E. end : the passage is between it and Chusan, from
whence a west course will take you to the open sea."
" The northern passage lies between Sheppey and Kwan-shan. On leaving the an- Passage be-
chorage at Siao-sha-ao steer a N. E. by E. course for a long barren island, with a round t^'e™ sheppey
'~ . . •'. . ~ . and Kwan-
peak upon it, the distance between which and Sheppey is H miles. A mud-bank runs simn.
oft" the latter 5 cables. To avoid this bank, do not bring the north point of Sheppey in
contact with the north point of the largest island between Sheppey and Kwan-shan, or
keep the barren island on board, which is steep to (m the S.E. side. Kwan-shan lies
West from the barren island 1| miles; a course must be steered to pass close to it
in order to avoid a reef, which is covered at high watei'. It is distant from Kwan-
shan 2| cables. From it the highest part of the barren island bears W. 4 IN., and
the highest part of Sheppey S. S. W. ^ W. Having passed the reef, the large island,
mentioned as the mark for avoiding the mud-bank off' Sheppey, bounds the passage
to the southward ; its northern point is rocky. To the eastward of Kwan-shan are
nine islands, lying off the S.E. end of Tae-shan ; oflT the south point of the nearest to
Kwan-shan is a reef; these extend 2^ miles farther, when the channel to the north-
ward, between Tae-shan and Chang-too, will be seen, A course W. l)y S. may then
be steered along the coast of Chang-too, which has many deep bays, and several islets
off" its south side."
" Vessels wishing to anchor on the S.W. side of Sheppey, which will be found a
secure anchorage in the North-we«it Monsoon, may haul to the southward, after pass-
ing the first island to the eastward of the large Passage Island, between Kwan-shan
and Slieppey. To the eastward tliree-c]uarters of a mile is a cluster of rocks."
" The east end of Sheppey is a low cliff", which may be passed witliin a caljle : good Sheppey.
anchorage will be found in 5 fathoms, the water shoaling gradually towards the
shore. The Island of Sheppey is 7^ miles long and 5A broad. On the east side are
several deep sandy bays. A considerable portion of the S. E. extreme is separated
from the island by a narrow channel at high water. The island appears formerly to
have been two, the land being very low, and protected from the sea by walls near the
north end. II. M.S. Pylades anchored here in the month of February, in 5^ fathoms,
half a mile from the east end of the island bearing N.f W. The island South of
Sheppey bore S.W. by W., and the highest part of Chusan S. | E, To the eastward
VOL. II. 3 M
450 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
of Sheppey are two cliff islets ; the nearest is If miles distant, and the other 4^ miles.
South from the nearest, 2 cables, is a ledge of rocks, which is sometimes covered.
W. N.W., half a mile from the eastern, is another small islet. The depth of water
to the eastward of Sheppey gradually increases ; there are 8^ fathoms when Pooto
bears South."
North coast of " Tlic coast line of Chusan to the eastward of Sheppey trends to the S.E. ; at the
chusan Island, (jjstance of three miles there is an island, with a narrow passage between it and
the shore, and a deep bay to the westward of it, in which the mud dries out a long
way, rendering it difficult to land except at the extreme points. Three miles and a
Fall Island. half farther to the S.E. there is a larger island, with a remarkableya// in the hills
near its centre ; a small islet lies half a mile West from its north extreme. To the
eastward are three islands, at the distance of half, 1^, and 3^ miles. The nearest
is the largest of the three, and has a patch of rocks 2 cables from it to the N. E,
North-east also from the central one of the three is another patch of rocks, distant
4 cables from the island. The outer island is the one mentioned to be steered for, in
the directions for passing between Pooto and Chusan: it is a small cliff island, with
a rock ofli" its N. E. side. Between Fall Island and Chusan are two small islets ;
another bay on the Chusan sliore is formed to the westward, and from hence to the
peninsula at the ]N.E. extreme of the island the coast is nearly one unbroken line.
The hills approach very close to the shore at the N.E. extreme, and attain an eleva-
tion of about 1,100 feet. There is another low, flat island between Tsae-wha and the
peninsula."
Tae-shan. " To the N.E. of Fishcr Island is the Island of Tae-shan, which is very populous.
The centre of the island is an extensive plain, with many villages. Near the eastern
extreme, also, the hills separate, leaving a level plain across the island. Mid-way be-
tween Fisher Island and it are two small islets, and between the north end of Bar-
ren Island and it are three others, off the south end of the western of which is a rock.
Rocks also extend off the S.W. and north points of the centre island of the three. A
mud-bank extends from the N.W. point of Barren Island, nearly to the first islet of the
three which lie to the north-westward of it. Between them and Tae-shan the bottom
is sand, and the soundings are irregular."
" The passage between Kwan-shan and Tae-shan is 3 cables wide : on the Tae-shan
shore are several small islets. H.M.S. Pylades anchored in a small cove to the N.E.
of Kwan-shan, formed by the islets lying off the S. E. end of Tae-shan, and rode out
a heavy gale ; the cove, however, is too small to be recommended. The deep water in
its immediate vicinity is also disadvantageous."
" To the westward of Tae-shan the islands extend about 15 miles, and from its sum-
mit the termination of the group northerly could not be defined."
ciiang-too. " Chang-too (probably the Blackheath of Thornton's chart) is separated from Tae-
shan by a channel 1^ miles across. The southern face of the island has many deep
indentations, and may be divided into several islands ; the time allotted for the service
not admitting a closer investigation. The breadth of the channel between it and the
islets to the eastward of Sheppey is 2-3 miles. The group of islands continue to the
eastward of Chang-too, and a little to the southward of the same parallel, for 25
miles."
Eastern " The castemmost island is in lat. 30° 7' 45" N., Ion. 122° 46' 30" E. From the an-
chorage under Sheppey, it bears E. ^ S. 27 miles; from the summit of Pooto L. by
N. f N. 21 miles; and from the outer i.slet East of Choo-keat-seen, N.E. 18^ miles.
It is 5 miles in circumference, and about 500 feet high. There is a small village on
Islands.
CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 451
its N. W. side : the shores are precipitous cliffs. Two small islets, nearly level with the
water's edge, lie N. 74° E., about 2 miles from its summit. The intervening islands
between this island and Chang-too were not closely examined ; their outlines only
have been inserted in the chart."
" Ships bound to the north side of Chusan ought to make the land in about 30° N. ; Directions for
when the easternmost island of the northern group will be seen to the northward, and the^nonh^We
the high land of Choo-keat-seen to the westward. On closing the land, tlie three small ff cimsan.
islets to the eastward of Choo-keat-seen will be made out, and also the island of Pooto,
which may be known by a small look-out house on its summit."
" Intending to communicate with Sing-kea-moon, the most eligible anchorage will be
found to the southward of Pooto, for which a course may be steered to pass between
that island and Loka (the island to the N. E. of Choo-keat-seen), taking care to avoid
the half-tide rock, which lies E. by S., 9 miles from the summit of Pooto."
" To the northward and north-eastward of Pooto are three islets and three rocks,
which are steep to, except to the westward of the southern or largest of the three,
where there is a reef. To the N.E. of these islands, and 3^ miles from Pooto, is a
small conical islet. E. f S. from it is a group of four sharp pinnacled rocks, with
several reefs among them. The half-tide rock, mentioned above, lies S. E. ^ S. 65
miles from these rocks."
" Vessels bound to Sheppey, or Siao-sha-ao, should pass to the northward of the four
pinnacled rocks, and steer a West course for the island of Sheppey, which will be
recognized by a conical hill."
" Chin-hae, in about lat. 29° 58' N., Ion. 121° 35' E.,* is the maritime town of the ci.in.hae.
river Ta-hae, or Ning-po River, the city of Ning-po being about 4^ or 5 leagues to i^d^'o^ntiguous
the westward of the river's entrance, or 14 or 15 leagues to the westward of Chusan coast.
Harbour; there is a channel leading to it from Ke-to Point, another from Chu-
san Harbour, and a northern channel between the coast and the northernmost of the
Chusan Archipelago, which also leads to Chusan Harbour. Close to the entrance of
Ning-po River lie Yew-shan and Foo-sun, small islands with connecting shoals,
betwixt which and the east point is the proper channel, having 4 or 4^f fathoms on
the bar at high water, and 5 to G^ fathoms inside. Chin-hae is a Heen or city of the
third class, and stands on the west side the entrance of the river, which in front of
Chin-hae is nearly half a mile wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water, and excellent an-
chorage ; at present, ships of any burthen may enter the river at half-tide ; the only
difficulty is in the narrow passage close to Foo-sun, the Crouching Tiger, where, if
the wind was not fair, it might be prudent to warp about 300 yards. There is a pas-
sage between the Isles Yew-shan and Foo-sun, with to 8 fathoms water, but the
anchorage here is not good, owing to violent and irregular eddies. Since the year
1756, English ships have not ti'aded to Chusan, nor to ]\ing-po River; but there is
much trade carried on by the junks from hence to the Japan Islands, distant about
three or four days' sail. From Ning-po River the coast stretches about 8 or 10 leagues
N. Westward to Hang-chow-foo Bay, which is little known to Europeans, but is
extensive, stretching a great way inland, and thought to have shoal soundings over a
flat bottom."
Kin-tang, or Golden Altar, lying between the west end of Chusan and the Kin tang.
• It is placed in lat. 29° 54' N., Ion. 121° 52V K., l>y Captain Recs, of the Amherst, who touched here in
1832, and made a cursory survey of the entrance of the river Ta-hae and the adjacent localities,
f In the year 1757, it appears that little more than half that depth was found on the bar at high water.
3 M 2
452 CHINA, EAST COAST. — CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
entrance of Ta-hae, or ]\ing-po River, is an island of quadrangular form, 3 or 4 leagues
in diameter, alternating in beautiful hills and valleys, highly cultivated. The channel
between it and Chusan contains several islands, but is little known, nor has any safe
harbour been found on the southern coast of Kin-tang, for in most of the deep bays
iiere, and on the western side of the island, the water is of too great a depth for
anciiorage till almost close to the shore. The Sylph, however, 22nd January, 1833,
after sounding in tliese bays, proceeded along the southern coast to the eastward, and
perceiving a number of junks at anchor, she ran in and anchored among them in
J;3 fathoms, not good bottom, and half a ship's length outside, no ground at 30
fathoms. This bay, called Ne-wan, is in about lat. 29" 5& N., near the S. E. end of
the island, and is sheltered from West to E. S. E. by high hills, but it is not a safe
anchorage.
TaoLi-tsze Taou-tsze Harbour, fomicd between the small island of this name and the N.W.
Harbour. ^^^^.^ ^f Kjn-tang, is in about lat. 30° 3' N., and 4 leagues to the north-eastward of
Chin-hae, having the larger one, called Ta-ping-shan, or Great-even Island, to the
North and N.W., by which this harbour is well sheltered in good anchorage of 8 to
5 fathoms, on the N. E. side of Taou-tsze. The entrance into the harbour is between
the south end of the last-named island and Kin-tang, and although the harbour is ap-
parently a cpiarter of a mile wide by the survey of Captain Rees, of the Amherst, it
seems rather contracted for large ships. The soundings between Chin-hae and this
harbour are from 12 to 9 fathoms, even bottom. From the N.W. end of Taou-tsze
and the south end of Ta-ping-shan, sand-banks project, precluding an entrance into
the harbour between these islands.
ch..«.nNorth- THE CHUSAN NORTHERN GROUP consists of numerous islands, mostly
roup. barren or rocky, and extending a considerable distance to the northward of Great
Chusan. They are not explored nor known to European navigators : the outermost of
them are the following small islands, far detached from the principal group.
TuNG-CHA-SHAN, two or three small isles, in about lat. 30^ 17' N., Ion. 122° 46' E.
TcHiN-SHAN, in about lat. .30°29'N., Ion. 1 22° 56' E., are two small islands, having
soundings of 35 fathoms about 6 leagues outside of them. To the N.N.E. of these, in
about lat. 30° 48' N., Ion. 123° 8' E., lie the small isles Te-chong and Pa-cha-shan,
with soundings of 30 fathoms about 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward ; the soundings
extend a great way out from this part of the coast, with strong tides or currents, veer-
ing all round the compass in 10 or 12 hours.
Although Han-chow, or Hang-chow Bay, and Chusan Northern Group fronting it,
are nearly unknown to Europeans, there is a navigable channel, or inner passage, for
vessels at a moderate draught of water, across the mouth of the bay, and near to the
westernmost islands of the group, through which the ship Amherst passed in June,
1832, and the Sylph in January, 1833.
From Taou-tsze Harbour, at the N.W. end of Kin-tang, the course by the inner
passage is about N. by W. i W. and N. N.W. 1 1 or 12 leagues, to pass to the west-
West Island. Ward of West Island, in lat. 30° 37' N., Ion. 121° 51' E., having passed previously near
to S.W. Island, which is in lat. 30° 14' N. ; but the course must be regulated by the
tides, which run strong during the springs; the soundings in this track were from
4^ to 7 fathoms, soft bottom. A small group of isles lies 4 or 4^ leagues to the west-
w^^ard of West Island, and to the N. N. Eastward of it about the same distance.
North-west Island, or Round Island, is in lat. 30° 48' N., and North Island about
CHINA, EAST COAST. — HAXG-CIIOW BAV. 4o3
4^ leagues E. N.E. of the latter. The passage between these islands and the low
coast has soundings of 6 to 4 or '3^ fathoms; the channel of Tsiing-ming, or Shan-hae,
lies to the north-west, and tiie passage out to seaward, in an easterly direction.
HANG-CHOW BAY is the deep inlet inside the northern islands of the Chusan Hangciiow
group, at the head of which is the entrance of the Tchen-tang-kiang, the river leading ^"^■
to Hang-chow city ; the bay is very little known.
The Sylph, after weighing in tlie morning from Woo-sung (a port in the entrance of
the Vang-tsze-keang), steered to the S. E. in 3 and 3^ fathoms, increasing to 4 and 4i
at 10 A.M., and to 5 soon afterwards. At 11, she saw Round Island when steering
8. S.W. in and 7 fathoms, regular soundings. At 7 p.m. she anchored in fathoms,
three islands in sight, the central one bearing W. by N. 10 miles.
January 7th, she weighed at 8 a.m. with the favourable tide and a light north wind,
steered \V. N. W., saw the coast bearing from W.N.W. to N. N.W., appearing rather
higher than about Shang-hae. Tiie tide set her through between the three islands
mentioned, where she had no ground at 40 fathoms, but soon after got ground in from
17 to 14 fathoms, and anchored, observed lat. 30° 40' N.
Ping-hu-heen, a walled city, was seen from her anchorage, bearing N. N.W. distant PinK-hu-heen.
6 miles. At 4 p. m. she weighed and steered for the city, oft' Mhich she anchored in
6 fathoms, extremes of the coast from W. by S. ^ S. tu N. E., extremes of the three
islands from E. S. E. to E. by N., extremes of the high land appearing like islands
from W. by S. to S.W. by W. ^ W., city of Ping-hu-heen JN.W. She found the tide
running 5 miles an hour, preventing a boat being sent on shore till slack water, when
a mud flat was found to front it, at the distance of about a mile, rendering landing-
there impossible, January 8th, at daylight she weighed and steered S. Westward for
what appeared a group of islands, which proved to be mountains on the main land :
steered then for a junk at anchor, and soon came in sight of the following place.
Cha-poo, lat. 30° 37' N., Ion. 121° 8' E., on the north coast of Che-keang Province cha-jmu.
and Hang-chow-foo Bay, has a tolerable harbour, and the imperial trade with
Japan is carried on from hence. The Sylph anchored about half a mile oft' the town
in 4^ fathoms, and had only 12 feet at low water, the vessel then striking the ground.
At the beginning of the flood she floated, and had 6 fathoms at high water. The rise
and fall of tide here was 24 feet ; whereas at Woo-sung, not far distant, it was only
8 or 9 feet on the springs. The town of Cha-poo is thought to be about 5 miles in
circuit, of square form, intersected by numerous canals, whicii communicate with
Hang-chow-foo River. The country is beautiful and pictures((ue, and, as far as the
eye can range, is interspersed with towering pagodas, romantic mausoleums, and nu-
merous temples. The country round Hang-chow-foo and Cha-poo may be considered
the Chinese Arcadia ; the scenery is embellished with canals, neat roads, plantations,
and conspicuous buildings. The Imperial Canal and the Tae-hou or Great Lake
being at a short distance, render this locality much celebrated for commerce, wealth, and
a dense population. The Sylph nowhere on the coast found so many intelligent
inquirers and so much kindness as at Cha-poo.
The country about Cha-poo is hilly, with undulating ridges, continuing so for a
great distance to the southward ; but the whole coast from hence northward, till beyond
the Yellow River, is very low and tint, scarcely visible until almost close to the land.
Hang-chow-foo, in ahout lat. 30° 30' N., Ion. 120° 32' E., the capital of the province Hang-ciiow-
of Che-keang, is about 7 leagues inland from the entrance of the river, at the head of ^"°-
the bay of Hang-chow-foo, which, although navigable up to tiie city, is unknown to
454
CHINA, EAST COAST. — VANG-TSZE-KEANG.
Slia-wei-sliaii.
Amlicrst
Rocks.
nirections.
^^'oo-sllll^.
Europeans. But it is said to be one of the richest and finest places of the empire : the
staple articles are raw silk and green teas.
THE YANG-TSZE-KEANG is the largest of the Chinese rivers, and leads to the
city of Nan-King, or South Capital, which is in about lat. 32° 5' N., Ion. 119° 0' E.,
50 or 52 leagues from the entrance of the river.
The entrance of the Yang-tsze-keang is very wide, and is divided into two channels
by the large Island of Tsung-ming; there are many smaller islands in and off the
entrance, which are a continuation of the northern islands of the Chusan group.
Sha-wei-shan, in lat. 31° 16' N., Ion. 121° 56' E.,* a small peaked island, distant
about 7^ leagues nearly North from North-west Island, is the northernmost of the
Chusan Archipelago, but far detached from the others ; it is a mark for proceeding
towards Woo-sung River, as it fronts the entrance of the channel, formed by the
Island Tsung-ming on the North, and the low coast of Shang-hae to the South,
leading to the river.
The Amherst Rocks, a dangerous ledge, in lat. 31° 10' N., lie about 3^ or 4 leagues
to the South-east of Sha-wei-shan, on the south side of which the Amherst passed to
seaward, in sight of the Nortii Island of the group to the S. S.VV., and Saddle
Island to the S. Eastward, which lies nearly 8 leagues East of North Island. The
bottom is even but shoal over the flats of Shang-hae, when inside of Sha-wei-shan and
the ledge of rocks mentioned ; the depths being usually from 5 to 3^ or 3 fathoms at
low water, excepting where there are sand-banks ; and the low flat alluvial coast is
just visible from the mast-head when in 4^ or 4 fathoms.
A sliip approaching- Shang-hae Channel from seaward should steer West on the
parallel of Sha-wei-shan, if the wind be northerly-, to make that little island, and pass
to the southward of it and Amherst Rocks, as the ground to the northward has not
been explored. But if the wind be southerly, steer West on the parallel of 30° 56' N. or
31° N., to make Saddle Island, and having passed about mid-channel between it and
Amherst Rocks, steer about W. N. W. to get a sight of the low coast, which will pro-
bably be first indicated by
edge of the coast bank to the N. Westward through the
entrance of Woo-sung River.
A ship approaching from southward by the inner passage to the westward of Chusan
Archipelago, after having got through the channel between the eastern part of the low
land of Shang-hae, and N. W. and North Islands, and being to the northward of the
latter, should steer about N.W. by N., in soundings of 4^ to 4 fathoms, which will
deepen to 5, 6, or 7 fathoms, when advanced into Shang-hae Channel, and she may
anchor in 5^ or 6 fathoms off the mouth of Woo-sung River.
Woo-sung village, in lat. 31° 26' N., Ion. 120° 48' E., stands a little inside the
entrance of the river of that name, called also Shang-hae River, the great commercial
City Shang-hae being situated about 6 leagues inland on its left bank, which is one of
the most active trading cities in the empire, several hundreds of junks usually lying
close to the wharfs, or moored opposite, where the depths are from 6 to 8 fathoms,
and the river nearly half a mile wide ; but ships of large draught of water cannot pro-
ceed up to the city. On each of the points at the entrance of the river there is a fort,
about 1^ miles below Woo-sung village ; the bar is a little outside the north fort, having
about 4 fathoms on it at low water, for a space of about a quarter of a mile, and the chan-
nel over it is bounded by shoal banks. Captain Rees describes the passage to be safe,
* Captain Ansoiij of H. JI. S. Pylades, made this island in Ion. 122° 5' E.
a grove of trees near the shore ; afterwards steer along the
channel of Shang-hae to the
CHINA, EAST COAST. — YANG-TSZE-KEANG. 455
by bringing the north fort to bear VV. 26° S.,* then steer direct for it, and as the nortii
bank of the river, close to the fort, is approached, the water will deepen from 4 to (J,
then to 10 or 11 fathoms, and gradually shoal again to 7 and fathoms near the village
of Woo-sung.
Tsung-ming, S. E. point, is in about lat. 31*^32' N., Ion. 121° 41' E., and from Woo- Tsung-minK,
sung River, the nearest part of the island is distant about 5 leagues in a north-east
direction, having extensive shoal banks, and flat half submerged islands between them,
and round Tsung-ming. This island is now said to be about 20 leagues in length,
and 5 or 6 in breadth, being the largest alluvial island in the world, containing at this
time about half a million of people, although in the 14lh century it did not exist above
water, so as to be habitable. The great quantity of soil discharged by the Yang-tsze-
keang must continue to transmute the shoals into alluvial islands ; these indeed are
forming off its entrance in the neighbourhood of Tsung-ming. The water issuing from
that great river is sometimes found quite fresh when the land is not discernible.
The Sylph's journal of the 21st December, 1832, has the following remark. " Went
into the river, passed Woo-sung, and anchored well within the latter place; afterwards
moved about H miles farther up, being then within 5 miles of the great trading city of
Shang-hae, where a foi'est of junk masts appeared, there being above 2,000 vessels at
anchor here."
The following notes on the entrance of the Yang-tsze-keang are by Captain C. R.
Drinkwater Bethune, of H.M.S. Conway, who visited it while attached to the fleet in
1840.t
" The limits of the embouchure of the Yang-tsze-keang are not well defined, but are captain
included between the parallels of 31° 0' and 32° 10' N. lat. ; it is divided into various
channels by low islands, which have been doubtless formed by deposit from the river, vang-wze
and reclaimed by the industry of the people. Both the islands and the banks of the '''^""
river are very low, and are defended by dykes : however, during the j^eriod of our visit
(August and September), no traces of inundation were visible. The largest among the
islands is Tsung-ming : it lies W. N.VV. and E. S. E., and is about 30 miles in length,
6 in breadth at the eastern extremity, and 9 at the western. In the parallel of Tsung-
ming, the shoal extends 15 miles to seaward. Twenty miles East from Tsung-ming
lies an island, Shawaishan (Jaunay Island of the Amherst voyage), 196 feet in height ;
lat. 31° 25' 2" N., Ion. 122° 6' E. Erom the summit Tsung-ming is just visible. Saddle
Island of Amherst is also visible, bearing S. E. by S. distant 42 miles, and the dan-
gerous rocks bearing S. S. E. ^ E. \G miles. To the northward of Tsung-ming there
are several channels with deep water; some run up for 8 or 10 miles, and are then
barred by an islet or bank ; others may perhaps lead up, but the ai)proaches are dan-
gerous or shallow, so that they cannot be recommended for vessels. They have not
therefore been examined so much in detail as that lying South of Tsung-ming, and
running on the right bank of the river. This channel the Amherst ascended when she
visited Shang-hai, and it is the only one that can be recommended for vessels of any
burthen. An extensive flat lies at the entrance, over which you carry from 3 to 4
fathoms : with the information I now possess I should have no scruple to take 21 feet
over, and think I may venture to say, future examination will shew that a 4 fathom
Bethune's
notes on the
•
In the narrative of the Amherst's voyage, it is marked S. 26° W., as the proper hearing, which is evidently
a mistake, as that would lead directly on the north sand or shoal ; and W. 26° S. is the hearing for crossing the
bar in the M.S. plan of the entrance of the river by Captain Rces, given in my Chart of the Eastern Coast of
China.
f A survey of the entrance of Yang-tsze-keang was at this time niade by Mr. George Johnson, Master of
H. M. S. Conway, and is now published by the Admiralty.
456 CHINA, EAST COAST. — YANG-TSZE-KEANG.
channel exists. M hen over the flat, a deep water channel, not intricate, leads up 80
miles from the entrance, the highest point reached iiy the Conway."
" We only stopped here, havin<? attained, as was thought, the point named in the in-
structions, as to all appearance tlie deep water still continued. Up to this point the
banks had presented one uniform flat, rarely broken by trees ; but here, the country
assumes a new character, three hills, about 300 or 400 feet high, appearing on the left
bank, about 4 or miles from the river ; on the summit of one of which was a tower,
and apparently a large establishment of priests (Tong-Chow). On the right bank the
country was also becoming hilly, some hills approaching near the river. No large
towns were visible, but many villages. The banks are intersected by numerous creeks,
in almost all of which there appeared to be junks with many people, but the greatest
number of people were observed on the left bank for 5 or 6 miles below the three hills
mentioned above."
Tides and " The remarks on the tides and winds depend on observations made from the ship,
"'" *■ and from her change of position they are rendered in some measure uncertain (period,
August and September)."
" Generally off the mouth of the river, high water at full and change about noon ; rise
at springs 15 feet, neaps 10 feet: once 18 feet was noted, but I judged it was exag-
gerated. The stream of flood comes from the eastward, drawing to the southward
about the last quarter, and round to the ebb from the westward, and so round by north-
ward. The greatest velocity measiu'ed was 4i knots oft' the northern entrances, but
the usual velocity at springs is about 3^^."
" In the river off Woo-sung, high water, full and change, about Ih. 30m. ; rise uncer-
tain, but from 15 to IS feet. Stream of flood comes from S. E. round by East to North ;
ebb from N.VV. round by North. At the furthest point reached, high water about 4h.
30m., rise 14 feet, ebb runs 8 hours. Flood at the neaps scarcely perceptible."
" July. — Bar. 2974, ther, 78; prevailing winds south-easterly, freshing about the
change of the moon."
" August. — Bar. 29-78, ther. 78 ; prevailing winds south-easterly and northerly, a
day or two blowing weather at the change, with a little rain."
" September. — Bar. 29-90, ther. 77 ; winds more variable, but drawing round from
south-easterly to northerly. Blowing weather at full and change, with rain ; morning
much colder than average. The temperature, having been taken on the main-deck, is
not very correct. The periodical breezes at full and change appear to increase in-
tensely. Barometer rises with northerly winds, and falls with westerly and southerly
winds. One hard blowing day, with barometer at .30-10, as far as we went there
Defercesof are no means of preventing a free passage up the river. At the entrance of the Woo-
* sung are two forts, bearing N.W. and S. E. from each other, at about three-quarters of
a mile apart ; but as they appeared to have been newly faced with mats, 1 presume
much confidence is not to be placed in them. In addition, on the left bank is a quay,
three miles in length, connected with the fort, defended by a kind of wedge-shaped
traverses, about 6 feet high and long, and perhaps 15 feet apart. We could not make
out whether they were composed of earth, baskets, or earthen pots ; from some being
whitened, we at one time imagined they had been erected on the same principle as the
mat-forts, to look like tents. There are two batteries along this line — one of about 10
guns, near the western corner of the quay, another of the same number, commanding
the entrance; some of the guns appear to be 9 or 12 pounders."
" On our return, off" the place from the upper part of the river, from 30 to 40 junks
were moored abreast across the entrance; we have seen at this place perhaps 300
the river.
CHINA, EAST COAST. — YANG-TSZE-KEANG. 457
soldiers. Three foolish guns were fired at the ship from a point G miles below the
forts."
" Above the point there are no defences, until you arrive at a large village, and esta-
blishment for building junks, where a show of about fifty soldiers was made behind a
parapet. This was tlie highest point the Conway reached ; and I judge, from the Chi-
nese charts, that it is considered the first defence on the river. As a gun-boat might
be placed to enfilade this, it is hardly worth attending to. There is also a circular fort
of small dimensions, apparently useless, both for offence and defence; near this fort
is a hill, about 200 feet high, with a building on the top, which apparently might
be made defensible ; describing a semicircle from this point witli a radius of 8 miles,
several heights will be included, forming, I presume, a position of some value. It is
unfortunate that, to the extent of half a mile from the shore, the bank is very flat.
Ten miles below this, on the same side, about twenty soldiers appeared in a round
fort, with the usual allowance of flags."
•' Tents were seen in various places when we remained any time, and a flotilla
of boats followed our movements in shore until the last moment, when a couple of
shot and a shell shewed them that such attention in future might be attended with
danger."
" Cattle and small stock appeared plentiful, particularly on the north side of Tsun- supplies.
ming. Caution must be observed in foraging, for the country presents singular advan-
tages for defence, the communication being by narrow causeways through the culti-
vated ground, which again is intersected in all directions by creeks and ditches : this,
however, may only be the case near the river."
" The water of VVoo-sung is perfectly good ; we have used it twenty miles lower,
but the time of the tide must be attended to, and even then it has a trace of salt."
" All the islands without the river at this time (September) can afford supplies of
sweet potatoes."
" 1 should add, that cattle appear to be kept for agricultural purposes, and it is a
question whether they can be easily replaced."
" So far as the islands have fallen under my observation, there is no hidden danger Dangers.
among them, and there is anchorage throughout, with good holding ground. I sus-
pect the west end of Ning-poto be shoal, and passing between the islands lying N.N.E.
from King-tang, we passed over 3^ fathoms. As we were not aware of the state of
the tides at the time, there may be less at low water. To enter the river, keep Gutz- Directions for
laff^S.S.E. by compass 24 miles, when you will perceive breakers or a ripple on the «""^""s*''^'
bank, according to the state of the weather ; on this course you will not have less than
4 fathoms, or, at the least, .3^ fathoms. As it is difficult to run a given distance when
tide enters into the account, you must be governed by the Island Sha-wai-slien, which,
in fine weather, is visible, from a height of IG feet, 20 miles; just in sight from that
height, bearing N.E. by N., you may steer N.W., and from aloft will perceive the low
land, and a single tree, sufficiently remarkable, bearing about W.N.W. Steering N.W.
you will carry 4 fathoms over the flat, and must keep at least 2 miles from the shore
on the larboard hand, as it runs off" shoal. ^^ hen the tree bears South, close the shore
to half a mile or one mile, and steer about N.W. by >V. for the largest clump of trees
you see on the shore. The water will deepen gradually to 9 or 10 fathoms. When
abrea.st of the trees the forts at Woo-sung will be seen, distant about 8 or 9 miles.
Good anchorage with the eastern fort S. by W,, extremity of \\ all N.W. Bush Island
is remarkable, and must not be approached nearer than 2^ miles ; keeping half a mile
VOL. II. 3 N
liver.
458
CHINA, EAST COAST. — HWANG-HAE, OR YELLOW SEA.
from the Wall N.W. by W. leads into the deepest water up the river. The soundings
decrease gradually from 8 to 4^ fathoms, in the centre of a large bight 2 miles from
the shore ; and then deepen gradually to 14 fathoms, abreast aclump of trees 17 or 18
miles from Woo-sung. The mark for hauling to the northward is the trees on Mason
Island, open to the westward of Tsung-raing, bearing N. ^W. As you haul across,
open the island gradually, and you may keep close to Point Harvey, which is steep to
half a mile. From this, steer N.W.^ W., when, if the weather be clear, a hill and
pagoda will be seen a-bead. Do not approach Mason Island nearer than 2 miles, and
when past it, keep about mid-channel, steering West, taking care not to bring the trees on
Mason Island to the southward of East, to avoid a shoal lying one-third the distance
across from the north shore. You are abreast of the shoalest part of it when the pagoda
bears N.W., and a great bush on the south shore S.^ W., about 14 miles from the
West of Tsung-ming : then steer S.W. byW.|^W. for Round Tree Point, distant
about 4 miles ; deep water will be had before and after passing ; and when abreast
Round Fort in a creek, and 1^ miles ofl' shore from 20 fathoms, you have suddenly
2 fathoms, and then 4 feet. The great bush kept in sight clears it to the northward,
and from this W. by N. leads up abreast a village and fortification situated among
hilly ground. Up to this point the banks are perfectly flat, and although the trees
and bushes spoken of are sufficiently remarkable when recognized, care must be
taken not to confound others with them. Here the channel again crosses the
river, and is about IJ miles wide, then about JN.N.W. |^ W., deepening from 7 to
12 fathoms."
Hwang-hae. HWANG-HAE, or the YELLOW SEA, is bounded on the West by the deep bight
of the coast, comprehended between the Yang-tsze-keang and the Shan-tung promon-
tory, and on the East by the coast of Corea; it is mostly muddy, and of a yellow-
colour near the land. It has been little frequented by European ships, nor has any
part of the coast been explored between the Island Tsung-ming and the Shan-Tung
promontory, although it is known to contain several excellent harbours, and to
possess an extensive coasting trade. The following are a few of the best known points
of the coast.
Hwang-ho.
Keaou-chow-
foo.
Teih-mei-
lieen.
HWANG-HO, or YELLOW RIVER, the entrance in about lat. 34° 2' N., Ion.
119° 51' E., is almost unknown to Europeans ; it is considered to be little inferior to
the Yang-tsze-keang in magnitude. The whole of the low coast between these great
rivers is fronted by extensive flats and shoal banks, projecting in some places above
20 leagues from the land, rendering the approach dangerous for large ships until better
known, although there may probably be channels among these shoal banks in the
neighbourhood of the coast frequented by the native trading vessels.
KEAOU-CHOW-FOO, or GLUE CITY, in about lat. .36° 15' N., Ion. 120° 25' E.,
situated at the head of a fine deep bay at the N.W. part, and bounded by a peninsula on
the eastern side, has a spacious harbour, and is the principal emporium of the province
of Shan-tang.
TEIH-MEI-HEEN, or BLACK INK CITY, about 8 leagues to the eastward,
on the bank of a river, which runs into the N. E. branch of the same bay, is said also
to be a place of considerable trade.
GULF OF pbPche-lee. 459
URH-TAOU, or EAR ISLAND, also called Staunton Island, in lat. 3G° 47' N., Urh-taou.
Ion. 122° 10' E., is of middling height, and lies near the south point of the penin-
sula of Shan-tung. Close under the promontory of Shan-tung, in about lat.
37° 23' N., lies Sang-kow Bay, having in it the Island Le-taou, where the coasting
junks anchor, and there is said to be a spacious and deep harbour, surrounded by
rocks, with great shoals on the left side of the entrance. Another large harbour, called
Toa-sik-tow, or Ta-shih-taou, frequented by the Chinese vessels, is said to be near the
above-mentioned promontory.
SHAN-TUNG, SOUTH POINT, is in lat. 37°0' N., Ion. 122° 41' E., and there
is an island about 4 or 5 miles to the S.W., with rocks between it and the main.
A ship bound to the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee should steer about N.|^ E. and North from To sail towards
the Tchin-shan Islands, until in lat. 33° N., to avoid the shoals oft' the Yang-tsze- 'g'^^^^Yeiknv
keang, where the depth will decrease to 17 or 18 fathoms, sandy bottom. From hence,
the course is about N. by W. to pass mid-way between the coast of China and the
S.W. extremity of Corea, into the entrance of the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee ; the same course
leads directly towards Shan-tung Promontory, in soundings between 20 and 40 fathoms,
shoaling to 15 and 12 fathoms, with overfalls near that headland.
GULF OF PE-TCHE-LEE.
THE SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY, in lat. 37° 24' N., Ion. 122° 45' E.,* the shan-t^-^np^^,
easternmost land of China, is the high extremity of a long peninsula, projecting a
great way to the eastward ; the point is of moderate height and broken appearance,
and may be seen 6 or 8 leagues ; it appears to be formed by several small islands,
having narrow channels between them. The soundings are 10 and 18 fathoms about
3 leagues from the point, but increasing fast to 30 and 40 fathoms when it is ap-
proached within 3 miles. About 2 or 3 miles to the N.W. of the point there is a
small but high island, named by Captain Maxwell Alceste Island ; it appeared to Aicestc
have a reef extending about half a mile round it, and there are some rocks above water
on the reef. To the westward of Alceste Island 7 or 8 miles there is another round
island, at some distance from the main land, which here forms a deep curve or bay, and
is mountainous.
After rounding Alceste Island, the ships of the embassy steered about W. by N. ^ N.
towards the straits of Mia-tau or Mia-tao, formed by the Mai-tau or Black Islands
to the southward, and others to the northward. In this route the depth of water was
very regular, from 15 to 17 fathoms, on a mud bottom. Chuh-san, or Bamboo Island,
the easternmost of the group, is first discerned when approaching the straits ; it is high,
visible 9 or 10 leagues, and lies in lat. 38° Of N., and 1° 44' W. from the point of Shan-
tung. Having passed to the southward of Chuh-san and another small island about
* Measured twice from Macao by chronometers by Captain D. Ross, of the Company's surveyinjr ship Dis-
covery, which, with her consort the Investigator, accompanied the embassy under Lord Amherst to Pekin River,
in 1816 : this description is chiefly taken from Captain Koss's observations.
3 N 2
460 GULF OF PE-TCHE-LEE.
2^ miles more westerly, steered to pass between the Keu-san Islands, two small islands
at the western entrance of the channel. The Northern Keu-san is very remarkable,
being like a gunner's quoin, with the highest part to the southward ; it is in lat.
38° 8' N., Ion. 2° Of W. of the point of Shan-tung. The soundings throughout the
channel were about 1 1 fathoms regular, although the Investigator got one or two casts
of d fathoms on a small knowl.
wei.imc-«ei WEI-HAE-WEI,* or OlE-HAI-OU HARBOUR, the north entrance, is not
Hariiour. easily discerned when coming from the westward. The harbour is formed between
Leu-cung-tow, a large and high island, and a deep bight of the coast. There are
several rocks above water at a short distance to the westward of Leu-cung-tow, be-
tween which and the latter is the best channel into the harbour, and it is a mile wide :
no danger is to be apprehended in the channel but what is visible. The soundings in the
entrance are from 10 to 12 fathoms, but when abreast a small rocky island, near the
S.W. part of Leu-cung-tow, the depth increases suddenly to 17 fathoms, and decreases
again very rapidly to 5 fathoms ; after which, it gradually decreases to the southern
shore, and into the bay to the westward where the village is situated. Between the
southern part of Leu-cung-tow Island and the main, which is 2^ miles distant, there is a
very safe passage, but over part of it there are only 3^ fathoms at low water. A ship of
easy draft, about 18 feet, would find the anchorage about half a mile to the southward
of Leu-cung-tow tolerably secure ; and a large ship, were it necessary, could enter
the North Channel, and make choice of a berth of 5 and 6 fathoms in a deep part
to the southward of the rocky island, off the S.W. point of Leu-cung-tow ; she must
anchor close to the land, and in that situation would not feel any swell. The eastern
point of Leu-cung-tow is very rocky, and the rocks above water extend a mile off;
the distance between the rocks and the main is 2^ miles, but in mid-channel there
is a small rock island, encircled with a reef extending a short distance. The Dis-
covery and Investigator turned through the eastern channel, and found it nearly a flat,
with 3^ and 4 fathoms at low water, all to the southward of Leu-cung-tow, but the
depth increased to 6 and 7 fathoms between the small island and the eastern rocks.
Position. Observations taken on the small island off the S.W. part of Leu-cung-tow made it
in lat. 37° 30^' N., Ion. 122° 10' 55" East, or 34 miles West of the point of Shan-
tung. From the small island in the eastern passage, Alceste Island was seen bearing
S. 84° E., distant about 25 miles, and the other island about 7 miles to the west-
ward of Alceste Island bore S. 8H° E. From the first anchorage in the harbour in
5 fathoms, the northern passage rock bore N. 38 j° E., the fort at the eastern part of
the village N. 73^° W., the small island to the S.W. of Leu-cung-tow about E. by S,,
distant one-third of a mile. In this situation a ship is exposed to the swell from
N. E. by N. to E. N. E., but is otherwise sheltered by the land. Fresh water may be
had at a sandy beach on the main, nearly south from the anchorage.
The coast between the Shan-tung Promontory and Wei-hae-wei Harbour appeared
to form a deep bight, and the land is high : sailed from the harbour at night, and made
nearly an east course in regular soundings from 12 to 15 fathoms, until past the Pro-
montory point. From the 25th July, the day on which the embassy rounded the Shan-
tung Promontory, until the 3rd September, when the Discovery quitted it, no severe
Winds in the Weather was experienced ; the few fresh breezes were of short duration :t it seems
Yellow Sea. I' i
* Defence, escort, or protection.
t In some sea.sons it has nevertheless been found, that the Yellow Sea and the Gulf of Tartary, formed
between Japnn Islands and the continent, are liable to thick fogs during the South-west Monsoon ; and in the
North-east Monsoon there is much stormy weather in those seas.
GULF OF PE-TCIIE-LEE. 461
probable, that ships may remain at anchor off the Pei-ho a considerable time, as, from
the number of trading vessels seen moving in all directions, the navigation of the
Yellow Sea appears to be during the summer months. The inhabitants at the diffe-
rent ports were civil, and thronged in great numbers on board to see the ships ; they
appeared to possess more honesty than the Ciiinese about Macao and Canton. There
did not seem to be a scarcity of cattle, although, with the exception of a few sent off at
the Pei-ho, none could be procured for the crew. It is therefore advisable for ships
not to depend on getting supplies in the Yellow Sea.*
CHE-FOW-TAOU, or ZEU-OO-TAU CAPE, on the north coast of Shan-tung, ci.e.fow-taou.
in lat. 37° 35' 50" N., Ion. 121° 28' 10" E., or 76^ miles West of the Shan-tung Pro-
montory, is a high, bold cape, and when seen at a distance appears like an island. To
the southward of this cape lies Che-fow-taou Harbour, called also Ki-san-seu KUsan-seii
Bay, which the ships of the embassy visited to procure water. The anchorage is ex- ^^^'
posed to the wind and sea from N.E., but is partly sheltered to the eastward by a
group of small islands and rocks, between the western one of which and Cape Che-
fow-taou, the passage is H miles wide, through which ships must pass when entering
from the northward : the soundings in this channel are 11 and 12 fathoms, decreasing
to 4 and 4^ fathoms at the anchorage. There is a village on the south side the cape,
about a quarter of a mile from the point, defended by a fort on an elevated situation :
at this village there are two wells of water; that nearest the beach was used by the
ships, and found brackish ; theothei', being better, was kept by the inhabitants for their
ovvn use. A little fruit was got here, but no cattle could be obtained for the ships.
CUNG-CUNG-TAOU GROUP : the northern island or rock bears from Che- cungcunp-
fow-taou N. 82° E., distant 7^ miles, and the south-east island bears from the northern ^°" ^"'"^'■
one S. 34^° W., distant 4| miles. The passage between these islands and the coast of
Shan-tung, in the narrowest part, is 2j miles wide, and the depth 5 and 6 fathoms. If
a ship pass through it in the night, she must be careful of two little sand-banks, one of
which is near the southern point of the large island, and the other about one mile far-
ther to the N.W. : the channel between the northern island and the next was not
examined, but junks were seen passing through. The variation of the needle in
18 Hi was 1° 50' W. ; the tide rises 7 feet, high water about 8 hours, at full and change
of moon.
TANG-CHOW-FOO, or TEN-CHOO-FOO, in lat. 37° 48' N., Ion. 120° 52' E., Tang-d.ow
bears about W. 20° N. from Che-fow-taou, distant 12 leagues ; the coast between them
contains some deep bays, and may be approached to f) or 10 fathoms ; the water is not
so deep here as it is farther to the eastward.
The anchorage at Tang-chow-foo is not good, the bottom being rocky ; it is open to
* Millet appeared to be the principal grain cultivated alonf^ the North coast of Shan-tung, and appeared to
furnish the diet of the people who came under observation ; the hills shewed the same barren appearance near
the sea, as may be observed along the whole south coast of China ; and there was a most marked ditference in the
dress and apparent comforts between the people on the shores of the Yellow Sea and those inhabiting the pro-
vinces of Canton, the latter having much the advantage of the former. Only one war boat was seen while
in the Yellow Sea, by which it would seem that about Canton and its vicinity the greatest part of His Impe-
rial ]\fajesty's naval force is stationed ; which, with their forts, arc but poorly calculated to resist European forces.
M^ny of the forts are quite destitute of cannon, and in such as have, the guns are so bad as to endanger those
who fire them.
foo.
462 GULF OF PE-TCIIE-LEE. — PEI-UO RIVER.
the eastward and westward, and the Meih-taou Islands are too far distant to afford
much shelter from either the wind or swell which comes from the northward. There
is a dock or basin at the city for vessels to load or unload, its entrance, from 30 to 40
feet wide, formed between two piers. A dangerous reef, about \^ miles offshore,
extends East and West nearly a mile, covered at high water, and being steep to, the
Tides. soundings do not mark its proximity. The tides rise and fall about 7 feet on the springs,
the flood running East and the ebb West, contrary to what might have been expected ;
this is probably the effect of the water from the Yellow Sea, flowing between Shan-
tung Promontory and Corea, into the gulf, and being repelled from the Lea-tong coast
westward, around the circular shores of the Gulf of Pe-tche-Jee, has, M'hen it reaches
Tang-chow-foo, sufficient strength to resist and overcome the feeble efforts of the eddy
tide setting round Shan-tung Promontory to the westward.
MEIH-TAOU GROUP, already mentioned, lies to the northward of Tang-chow-foo,
and the strait by which they are separated has irregular soundings, between 5^ and 0,
to 14 fathoms water. A reef projects from the S. Easternmost Meih-taou; and from
the point of land on the west side of Tang-chow-foo, a sand-bank stretches some dis-
tance to the westward. From hence to Sha-loo-poo-tien Islands, the depths are 13 to
15 fathoms in the fair track, steering up the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee.
The Discovery, in leaving the gulf, passed to the southward of the Cung-cung-taou
Islands, and steered eastward along shore to a projecting point of land, having an
island a short distance to the northward, which island is in lat. 37°34^'N., and 41
miles to tlie westward of the north-east point of Shan-tung. A rock and small reef
projects off the north point of the island, which was passed about 1^ miles distant,
in 14 fathoms water. The coast between Ki-san-seu and this point curves in to the
southward, but no port for shipping was observed : regular tides were experienced
along the coast.
From Tang-chow-foo, the coast takes a W. S.W. direction for 25 miles, to a project-
ing point, on which stands a village ; it then runs due South, curving gradually round
to the westward, and forming the southernmost shore of the gulf.
i.ac.cw.foo LAE-CHOW-FOO, or EDIBLE PLANT CITY, in lat. 37° 13' N., Ion. 119° 50' E.,
lying at the southern part of the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee, on the eastern point of the mouth
of its contiguous river, has a fort and high craggy cliffs a little to the eastward, with
some islands from 2 to 4 leagues off shore, nearly fronting the city in a northerly direc-
tion, one of which resembles a quoin and the other a saddle. This seems to be a place
of considerable coasting trade, but the water is shoal along the shore in this part of the
gulf, there being only 4^ or 5 fathoms, about 4 or 5 miles off the entrance of the river,
near to the westernmost islands ; and there are several rocky patches, with 2^ or 3
fathoms water on them, to the northward and N. Eastward, 4 or 5 leagues off the coast,
with G and 8 fathoms near them. The coast from Lae-chow runs westerly, and then
north-westerly towards the mouth of Pei-ho river; the shore in the interval is unex-
plored, but is represented to be low and flat, with shoal water extending a long way out
from the land.
ivi-iio. PEI-HO* anchorage bears N. 70°W., distant 140 miles, from Keu-san Islands,
and the bottom is so flat, that the soundings only varied from 12 to 14 fathoms through-
* White River ; Pci, Pih, or Pe, signifying White, and Ho a River. Keang, or Kiang, is also a River.
GULF OF PE-TCHE-LEE. 463
out this distance. The Discovery at anchor in 4J fathoms at low water, made the lat. Anchorage.
38° 58|' N., Ion. 1 1 8° 0' E.,* or 4° 45' W. from the Shan-tung Promontory, the entrance
of the river being about 9 miles West from the ship. No other object was visible than
a temple, which stands on elevated ground about 3 or 4 miles within the river, and a
little low land, seen from the mast-head to the N.W. About 3 miles to the westward
of the anchorage the depth was only 2 fathoms ; and the whole space from thence to
the shore appeared to be very shoal, only admitting a passage for boats, excepting at
high water, small-sized junks were seen entering, apparently not without difficulty.
The ground about the anchorage is soft whitish mud, and holds well. During 14 days
at anchor, the weather was fine, and the wind variable; excepting two gales of short
duration, experienced from N. E. Tiie rise of tide was 7 feet, the flood from the
S. S. E. and the ebb from the N.W., but the direction of the former seemed to be in-
fluenced by the winds ;t its velocity on the springs was about one knot per iiour,
high water at full moon about 9 or 10 hours. Variation of the needle observed 2° 30'
westerly.
On the south side the entrance into Pei-ho there is a military station, and a platform
or tower for its defence. Here, the width of the river does not exceed half a mile, de-
creasing to less than a quarter of a mile abreast of Ta-koo village, which is about four
miles up, and where the embassy of 1816 embarked on board the Chinese yachts.
Peking, or Pekin4 in lat. 39° 54' N., Ion. ]16°32'E., by observations made Peking.
during the late embassies to that metropolis of the empire of China, is about 38 or 40
leagues inland, to the N. Westward from the entrance of the Pei-ho ; and Tong-chow-
foo, or city of approach, which may be considered as the harbour of the imperial city,
is about 4| or 5 leagues eastward of Peking.
Teen-tsing-foo, or Tien-tsing, a city of great trade, particularly in salt, stands Xeen-tsinfr-
at the junction of the Eu-ho, or Yun-liang-ho, with the Pei-ho, about 1 1 leagues dis- ^°°'
tant in a W. N.W. direction from the entrance of the latter in a direct line ; but this
river, in the intervening space, having several lateral windings, tiie distance is thereby
increased twofold, or to about 20 leagues by water. There are extensive salt maga-
zines contiguous to the lower part of this city, where the river is crowded with junks
from various parts of the empire ; and along the banks of the river downward to the
village Ta-koo, or Great Mouth, are stacks or deposits of salt, which, in preparing
and transporting, gives employment to thousands of people in this low, flat, dreary part
of the coast, and is a source of wealth to many of the traders.
The tide at the entrance of the Pei-ho is subject to great irregularities, the stream in Tides.
the river usually having a motion more or less towards the sea, except when the pre-
valence of strong southerly winds swells the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee, and thereby augments
the depth of water in all the circumjacent rivers equally with the Pei-ho.
In 1793, when Peking was visited by the English ambassador,^ a bar was found to
extend in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction at the mouth of this river, liaving only 3 or
4 feet on it at low water, and in several places almost dry. In July the tide rose and
fell 6 or 7 feet with full moon, high water at 3^ hours. At this time, about 5 or G miles
• The anchorage of His Majesty's ship Lion, and Hindoostan, with the former embassy, was in lat. 38' 51' N.,
Ion. 118^ 2' E., by lunar observations.
t A strong north-we.st wind drives the water out of tlie Gulf of Pe-tche-lee, reducing the depth several feet
along the circumjacent coasts ; but a southerly wind forces the water into it, between Corca and Shan-tung,
thereby augmenting the deptii considerably all over this slioal gulf, which is gradually subject to a decrease in
the depth oF water, occasioned by the accumulation of soil, deposited by the Pei-ho, and other rivers.
J Or North Capital: called also, Shun-Teen-Foo, or Fair Celestial City. § Lord Macartney.
464 GULF OF PE-TCHE-LEE.
outside the mouth of the river, there was fixed a large bamboo beacon, with small ones
continued from it in a direct line to the shore, as a guide for entering the river, by
keeping the line of beacons close a-board on the left hand or larboard side. The course
W, by N. leads into the best channel, in a line with the fort on the S.W, side the en-
trance of the river, which within the bar is one-third of a mile wide, with about 2^ or
3 fathoms at low water.
Ships bound to the anchorage off the Pei-ho should not exceed lat. 38° 55' N., until
Shoal of two the soundings decrease to 7 or 8 fathoms, as a small shoal of 2 fathoms lies nearly
tati.oms. £^gj. ly^j^^ jj^g anclioragc, on which the depth decreased rapidly from 7 to 2^ fathoms,
where the Discovery tacked ; this shoal spot is in lat. 38° 59' N. by account, and 16
miles eastward of the anchorage, supposed to be one of the shoals, extending off the
western part of the Sha-loo-poo-tien Islands, although land was not visible from the
mast-head, when at anchor close to the shoal.
SHA-LOO-POO-TIEN, or SHA-LU Y-POO-TIEN ISLANDS, signifying
Thunder and Lightning Sands, distant from Tang-chow-foo about 40 leagues N.W. by
W. ^ W., are a considerable group of low sand isles, extending in an easterly and
westerly direction, with shoals among them. From abreast the south side of these
islands, the depths decrease gradually to 7 or 6 and 5 fathoms, mud, about 5 leagues
to the VV. S. Westward, which is the anchorage off the mouth of Pei-ho, or Peking
River.
During the recent hostile operations against the Chinese, a squadron of H.M. ships
visited the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee, and anchored off the Pei-ho River, and in other parts
of the gulf. The following remarks are gathered from the journal and chart of Mr.
George Norsworthy, master of H.M.S. Pylades.
Mr. Nors- " After rouudiug Alceste Island, steered for the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee ; passed on the
remarks*. 'WBst side of Chushan Rock at about a mile distance ; this rock has a white shingly
beach round it, and appears bold. Entered the gulf between the Quoin (called Kao-
shan, in the Admiralty chart) and the islands to the southward, having 12 and 13
fathoms, and no appearance of shoal water. The fishermen say that there are no
hidden dangers in any of the passages between the Leo-tung Promontory and the
Meih-shan Islands, except the rock on which, with any swell, the sea breaks, and
which lies mid-way between Yaskaie (To-ki) Island and the two islands about 8 miles
to the northward. From the Quoin to the anchorage off the Pei-ho the course is
W. N.W. 46 leagues, with regular soundings of 12 and 14 fathoms. With a strong S.E.
wind caution is necessary, lest a vessel be driven too near the Sha-loo-poo-tien banks,
which are connected with a group of small islands, and which extend about 8 leagues in
a W.N. W. direction from Sha-loo-poo-tien Island, in lat. 38° 53' N., Ion. 1 18° 45' E. (by
Admiralty chart, lat. 38° 55' N., Ion. 118° 39' E.). The south-western part of the bank
is very steep, the Pylades having shoaled from 10 to 8, 6, and 3 fathoms, rocky and
shingly bottom. There are several channels through the sands, which are frequented
by the junks, and there are fishing stakes in various parts ; the sands in some places
dry at low water. At the western end the shoals trend to the northward and N. N.
Eastward about 4 miles, and there is a passage for the trading junks between the Sha-
loo-poo-tien banks and the shoals of the coast to the northward. The Pylades found
good anchorage with smooth water in lat. 39° 2' N. off the western end of the banks,
particularly in N. E. gales, when the anchorage off the Pei-ho is much exposed."
" In running for the anchorage off the Pei-ho, having sighted Sha-loo-poo-tien Island,
which is low, with a remarkable joss-house on it, do not come to the northward of lat.
GULF OF LEA-TONG. 465
38° 54' N., on which parallel you will, when past the island, soon deepen to 12 fathoms,
and will carry that depth until the west end of the shoals bears jNortli, when the sound-
ings will decrease towards Pei-ho to 8 and 7 fathoms, when you may either haul up
for the anchorage off that place, or proceed farther North to the anchorage before men-
tioned, under the west end of the shoals. At the anchorage off Pei-ho, the flood-tide
sets to the N.W. and the ebb to the S.E. ; near the shoals the stream takes a W.N.W.
direction along its edge. Its rate is between 3 and 4 miles an hour at the springs.
High water on full and change of the moon at lOh. 45m."
LEA-TONG, or LEAOU-TUNG GULF, was partly navigated by the Discovery, Lea-tong
in company with H. M. S. Alceste, which ships left the anchorage off the Pei-ho ^"'^
August 11th, and passed the Sha-loo-poo-tien Islands at night, without being able
to make any oljservation on their situation, further than that the depth increased to
18 and 20 fathoms at a short distance to the southward of them, and was very irregular;
but after passing thera, it became again regular at 14 and 15 fathoms. August 13th, at
noon, were in lat. 39° 10' N., Ion. 119° 22' E., in 12 fathoms water, the western jjart of
the high land on the coast of China then bearing N. 18^^° W., distant about 11 or 12
leagues. On the 14th, when in lat. 39° 40^' N., Ion. 120° 14' E., in 15 fathoms water,
the Towers on the Great Wall of China, near the water side, were seen bearing Great Waiiot
N. 27|° W., distant about 8 or 9 leagues : steered to the eastward in regular soundings ^'''"^•
of 15 and 10 fathoms on a mud bottom, until August 16th, then anchored on the eastern
side the Gulf of Lea-tong, to the southward of a projecting point of land, which appeared
to be part of an island. About a mile to the eastward of the point, observed on shore
with an artificial horizon twice, and made the lat. 39° 31' 35" N., and 3° 19^' E. from
the Pei-ho anchorage, or in Ion. 121° 19^' E. The land here is high, and may be seen
7 or 8 leagues distant ; got water easily from the second stony beach to the eastward of wateiins U'V
the point ; but the Alceste filled water farther to the eastward, where there was a better
stream, although, on account of a flat, not so easily obtained. There is another point
of land, about 10 miles S. by E. of the former, and between the two it curves to the
eastward, forming a bay. When coming to this anchorage, the depth continued very
regular until passing the first point about a mile, when it began to decrease fast, so that
2 miles within it there are but 3 fathoms water. When at anchor in 5 fathoms, the north
point of the bay bore N. 38° W., the southern point bore S. 3f° W., a remarkable red
hummock N. 88° E., a village N.G8° E., distant about I mileoff the nearest shore to the
northward. Observations, taken carefully on shore with a large theodolite, made the
variation of the needle 1° 56' W. Whilst at anchor here, numerous vessels were seen
passing to and from the northward, many of which appeared deeply laden. The inha-
bitants were civil, but from their being totally ignorant of the value of dollars, the ships
were unable to procure any refreshments. From the summit of a hill extensive lakes to
the eastward were discerned, by which it seems probable that the whole of this part of
the coast is composed of numerous islands ; and to the northward of the one under
which the ships anchored, the Gulf of Lea-tong trends very much to the eastward.
August 19th, at daylight, weighed and steered to the southward, carrying good sound-
ings from 8 to 10 fathoms, and passed the southern point of the bay about 2 miles off.
At noon, by account, when in lat. 39°.3'N., Ion. 121°5'E., in 15 fathoms, two islands were islands near
seen of moderate height; one of them bore S. 55F E., distant 9 miles, the other S. 32° E., "'"'ering Bay.
distant 8 miles; and another high island, distant 12 miles, bore S. 23° W. ; 6 miles to
the S. S. E. of this, there was another island, of rocky appearance, by account, in lat.
38° 47' E., Ion. 131° 4' E. Passed to the westward of all these islands, and had good
VOL, II. 3 o
466
GULF OF LEA-TONG.
South iKiint of
Lea-toiig.
Nortlieni
IMeih-taou
Islands.
sounding's in 15 and 16 fathoms, over a mud bottom ; the bearings of the three first
mentioned were tai<en from the northernmost point of the Watering Bay, but the wea-
ther being thick and rainy at jjassing them, could place their latitude only by account.
After passing the south point of Watering Bay, tiie land appeared high, and trended off
to the eastward, forming a considerable curve, and again stretched to the south-west-
ward : proceeded to the southward of the rocky island, and steered to the eastward for a
part of the land which appeared to be near the south point of Lea-tong, and anchored
about an hour in 20 fathoms water, off a small bay in which there is a village, and the
country round has the appearance of high cultivation. When at anchor, the extremes
of land, supposed to be the main land, bore from N. 8° W., distant about G miles, to
S. 9°E., distant about 2 miles; the two southernmost of the islands which had been
passed in running in bore respectively N. .30° W. and N. 36^° W. The northern
islands of the chain which extends to the northward of the Meih-taou bore S. 22^° W.,
distant about 7 or 8 leagues ; the anchorage, by account, in lat. 38° 43' N., Ion. 121° 8' E.
This position is on the western side of the south point of Lea-tong, distant from it
3 or 4 miles ; but the rapidity of the movements of the ships prevented the position of
the south point of Lea-tong from being fixed with great precision. After weighing,
steered along the land at about 2 miles' distance, until it was ascertained that it was
really the southern extreme of the coast ; then directed the course to the S.S.W., until
about 10 P.M., when the Alceste anchored in about 30 fathoms water for the night. On
the following morning, passed to the eastward of the northern islands of the Meih-
taou chain. The channel between them and Lea-tong Point is 7 or 8 leagues wide,
and the northern group is in lat. .38° 2.3' N., hy account^ \on. about 1 20° 58' E.
The Sylph visited the Gulf of Lea-tong late in November, 1832, and could not dis-
pose of a single chest of opium, owing chiefly to the poverty of the natives, mostly
Tartar fishermen, and the severity of the weather, the thermometer ranging between
18° and 23° in the beginning of December ; some of the Lascars perished with the cold.
Kae-('how-foo.
Dangerous
shoal.
KAE-CHOW-FOO, in about lat. 40° 30' N., Ion. 122° 25' E., at the eastern part of
this gulf, about 10 miles inland, is surrounded by a high wall; the houses are low and
ill built, but thickly inhabited, and it has an extensive trade. The Sylph was obliged
to anchor here at a great distance from the land, there being only 2j fathoms water
about 6 miles off, so flat is this part of the gulf. Not being able to communicate with
the shore, which was fronted with ice, and having no shelter from strong north winds,
this vessel proceeded from hence towards Kin-chow-foo, in about lat. 41° 8'N., Ion.
121° 10' E., a place of considerable trade, about 20 miles inland on the bank of a river
that falls into the northern part of the gulf, where, it is said, vessels may anchor in lat.
40° 37' N., about 6 miles off shore. There are several dangerous shoals in the upper
part of the Gulf of Lea-tong; for the Sylph, after weighing from the coast at Kae-
chow-foo, deepened gradually to 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, then grounded on a shoal in lat.
40° 34' N., Ion. 121° 48' E., about 8 leagues from the land, and narrowly escaped being
wrecked, the vessel striking hard for a considerable time, until the wind changed from
the north-eastward to the southward, which raised the water in the gulf and floated her
clear of the shoal. Soon afterwards the north wind returned with intense cold, which
congealed the spray of the sea into ice as it fell upon the deck, and on the 3rd De-
cember, both the inside and outside of the vessel was coated with solid ice; she conse-
quently weighed her anchor with difficulty, and steered southward from this miserable
locality : the poor Tartar fishermen were kind and hospitable to the perishing sailors,
who, when the vessel lay aground on the shoal, went in the boat through the loose ice
GULF OF LEA-TONG. 467
to the shore, in the hope of obtaining assistance, but they were repulsed by the man-
darins.
TUNG-TSZE-ROW BAY, called Watering Bay by Captain Ross, in lat. 39° 29'N., Tung-tsze-
lon. 12]°20'E., on the coast of Lea-tong, is several miles in extent, with anchorage jn^'^'jja^.^^''"''
from 5 to 7 fathoms under the northern point, where vessels are sheltered from
northerly and easterly winds; this bay is frequented by the Chinese junks trading to
the ports of Mantchou Tartary, and was visited by the Sylph in 1832, and by H. M.
Ships Alceste and Lyra, and the Discovery surveying ship, in 1816.
Captain Bourchier, of H. M. S. Blonde, thus describes his passage across the gulf, captain
" On the IGth Aug:. 1840, sot under weigh from Pei-ho for Tun";-tsze-kow Bay. At Bourehiers
o ' o c5 o "J • ^ ^^ passage across
noon on the following day were in lat. 39° 0' N., Ion. 119° 20' E., the weather cloudy, the gulf.
but the land was seen bearing N. by W. ^ W., distant from 10 to 18 miles. On the
18th, when in lat., by account, 39° 45' N., Ion. 120° 5' E., in 8 fathoms, soft mud, although
the weather was hazy, the towers on the Great Wall of China were distinctly seen,
bearing fiom N. by W. to jNorth, distant 5 leagues. Steered to the eastward, having
regular soundings from 11 to 16 fathoms ; but when in lat. 39° 12' N., Ion. 120° 24' E.
by account, suddenly shoaled into 10 fathoms, but soon resumed the former soundings
of 16 fathoms, and continued that depth until near the anchorage in Watering Bay."
Here several junks were boarded which had coal on board, and, although it was of a
poor description, is, according to Capt. Bourchier's opinion, probably abundant on
their coast.
Capt. Bourchier describes the bay as 7 or 8 miles wide, afibrding room for any num-
ber of ships. The north point, when bearing N. N. E. ^ E., has an abrupt aspect,
sloping to the nortliward and vertical towards the sea, and having a reddish appear-
ance. Between 2 and 3 miles within the point is the watering place, which it is not
prudent to approach nearer than 3|^ fathoms, at low water. The Blonde anchored in
8^ fathoms, with the north point bearing N. N.W. 5 W.; Village E. ^ N.; Remarkable
Red Hill E. ^ S. ; Watering Place E. by N. ^ JN., and South Point S. i W.
There is a bay about 6 or 7 miles to the northward of the south point of Lea-tong,
with depths of 24 or 25 fathoms l^ or 2 miles oft shore, having a rocky island fronting
its northern extremity. The South Head of Lea-tong appears to be in about lat. Lea-tong
38° 41' N., Ion. 121° 12' E., but its position was not correctly ascertained.
South Head.
THE COREA, or KOREA, called CHAOU SEEN by the natives, is fronted lo Corea.
the West by numerous rocky islands; it was visited, in 1816, by the Alceste, Lyra, and
Discovery, after having passed along the coast of Lea-tong ; and was again visited by
the ship Amherst, in July, 1832 ; from the journals of these ships, the following brief
remarks iiave been supplied.
From the South Head of Lea-tong, the coast extends upwards of three degrees in an
easterly direction, having many islands fronting it in some parts, but this coast is yet
but little known to Eurojjeans. After extending first in a north-easterly, and then in
an easterly direction, the coast line takes a south direction, near the meridian of 125° E.,
forming a great concavity between Lea-tong and the western coast of the Corea.
In September, 1840, H. M.'s ships Blonde and P} lades visited this i)art of the coast, jir. Nors-
and determined the position of several points on their route. The following remarks '^""kl''*'^
are chielly from the journal of Mr. Norswortliy, tiie acting master of tiie Pylades.
"The South Mend of Lea-tong," he says, " is a high, bold promontory; with it bearing
E. N. E. 15 miles, we anchored in 15 fathoms, mud, the ebb tide setting strong to
3 o 2
468
GULF OF LEA-TONG.
Water.
Victoria Bay.
Rocks.
the S. E. From this to the Head the water deepened to 20, 25, and 30 fathoms, and
when the Head bore N. by W. 6 miles, discoloured water was seen, having the appear-
ance of a long dangerous spit running out from the land to the southward ; three boats
were sent to examine it, but after sounding every part, had nothing le.ss than 30
fathoms, oft' shore from 3 to 5 miles. The coast from the Head trends away to the
N. E. by E., and is high and bold, with deep sandy bays, affording shelter for junks
with the prevailing northerly wind. Anchored in a bay with the head bearing N. 70 E.*
10 miles, in lat. 38° 48' IN., Ion. 121° 34' E. It is well sheltered from north-westerly
and easterly winds, but exposed to the southward and south-westward. From the
anchorage, the west point of a rocky island which forms the bay bore S. 71° E., centre
of the town N. 50° E., oft' shore one mile in 16 fathoms : the bottom is irreguhir, but is
good holding ground. Good water may be procured in small quantities N.W. Ijy N.
from the anchorage.
" E. by S. from the bay is a small island, which on this bearing appears round, and
much like the Cap in Sunda Strait, but in other directions it resembles a quoin. It
appears steep, and has a rock oft" it to the southward. Passed between it and the
coast running along shore to the eastward, having no bottom at 20 fathoms. At the
distance of 6 miles E. N. E. from the Cap, passed close to two other islands, one of
which resembles a ship under sail. These islands are steep to, having no bottom with
25 fathoms at half a mile distance.
"Anchored in a small bay N. E. by E, 5 or leagues from this Cap : the anchorage
is sheltered from S.W. to N.W. winds, but is otherwise exposed. The bay is formed
by an island to the southward, and by high, bold land to the northward. Fresh water
may be procured, and the natives appeared to be civil. From this bay the coast trended
to the J\. \V. into a deep gulf, with good shelter and excellent anchorage. The dis-
tance across the entrance is 13 miles, with two islands lying nearly in mid-channel.
They are high, and appear as three islands, one having a neck of sand which is covered
at high water. The gulf may be known by these islands, and by a higl), black-look-
ing hill on the main. The depth of water in the entrance is 21 and 20 fathoms, but
it soon shoals to 10, 9,8, and 7 fathoms. In running direct for the hill, carried the
latter depth to the entrance of a fine harbour, where we anchored in Oj fathoms. The
harbour is formed by numerous islands fronting the main, and appeared capable of
containing a large number of ships. Anchored about half a mile from the shore ; but
remaining only two hours, had no time to examine the place. Cattle were seen on
the hills ; bnt the natives appeared hostile, coming down in hundreds armed with
matchlocks, muskets, &c. This bay was named by Capt. Bourchier, of H. M. S,
Blonde, Victoria Bay. Lat. of entrance 38° 56' N., Ion. 121° 50' E.
•' The head of the gulf was examined by the boats of the Pylades, and good an-
chorage found in 5 and 5^ fothoms, stift' mud. A good mark is a remarkable white,
round rock, in one with a conspicuous gap between two hills bearing West.
" There is a dangerous reef of rocks at a considerable distance from the land, of
about a mile in extent North and South, and nearly even with the water's edge. The
Pylades passed 2 miles to the southward of them, having soundings of 35 fathoms.
The weather being squally and rainy, no observation could be obtained ; but the reef
was 4 or 5 leagues E. N. E. from the islands at the entrance of the gulf.
" From this danger the Pylades steered E. by S. with a strong S.W. wind, for the
south extreme of a group of islands, and found shelter on the east side of an island in
lat. 39° 2' N., Ion. 122° 49' E., in 17 fathoms, mud : the anchorage is sheltered from all
but northerly winds.
* This bearing must be erroneous ; it probably means S. 70° W.
GULF OF LEA-TONG. 469
" Four miles to the eastward are two islands, lying North and South of each other,
having a deep water channel between them. There is a remarkable rock bearing Junk Rock.
S. S.W. from the south point of the islands, which appear like a junk under sail ; it
is high, and may be seen 4 or 5 leagues. The Pylades passed inside this rock, and
had no bottom with 30 fathoms ; from thence she steered N. N. E., and at noon was
in lat. 39° 10' N., Ion. 122° 54' E., in 22 fathoms, the east point of a group of islands
bearing N. ^ VV. 3 or 4 miles. Proceeded to the northward, and entered an inlet
formed by the above-mentioned islands, and others to the eastward, the high coast of
the Corea distant 12 miles ; shoaled the water to 15 and fathoms ; hauled to the
eastward and anchored under the last-mentioned group of islands. The southernmost
islands of tlie group are barren, with sharp pointed rocks like the Needles. Observed
something like a fort or town on the main, at the distance of 5 leagues, the line of
coast trending to the N.E. The flood tide here set very strong to the northward,
3^ miles an hour, and the ebb faintly to the eastward. High water at8h. 30m. on full
and change.
" In lat. 39° 12' N., Ion. 122° 50' E., some patches of sand were found, with depths Sami patches
of 15 and 17 fathoms on them, and on which the Pylades anchored for the night; the =<"'' '''"'"i'-
main land at this time or 7 leagues distant. At noon the next day, in lat. 39° 2' N.,
Ion. 124° 39' E., lost sight of the main land at 7 or 8 leagues' distance, the ship in
24 fathoms. There was at this time a patch of low islands in sight, bearing N. by W.
10 miles, and a number of high islands, the eastern extreme of which l)ore S.E. by E.
10 or 18 miles. After steering S. S. E. from noon, at the rate of 7 knots per hour, at
12h. 50m. the water suddenly shoaled from 15 to 7 fothoms, rocky bottom ; she hauled
oft' immediately W.S.W., and soon deepened again to 22 fathoms; altered course again
as before, and in a short time again shoaled to 17, 10, 7, 0, and 4 fathoms, when the ship
hauled oft". From the broken water and the number of birds, it was supposed that
there must be much less than 4 fathoms in this shoal; it appeared to extend in a
N. N.W. and S. S. E. direction, in lat. 38° 50' N., Ion. 124° 37' E."
The following is the account from the Remark Book of Captain Bourchier, of H. M.S. Captain
Blonde, in company with the Pylades. " Sailed from the anchorage at Pei-ho on the ""nari!""*
17th September, 1840, about 8 a.m.; the South Head of Leatong bore N.W. by W.
G miles, when a shoal was reported from the mast-head bearing North, having the ap-
pearance of a long, dangerous spit stretching from the land to the eastward. Sent the
Pylades and boats to sound, and although the discoloured water was sounded in all
directions, not less than 31 fathoms were found — the change in the colour of the water
being occasioned, it is sujjposed, by tlie muddy bottom or the meeting of the tides.
At noon, lat., by observation, 38° 38' N., Ion. 121° 18' E., depth 35 fathoms. The
sliort time spent in running tlirough the vast archipelago bounding the south coast of
Leatong will prevent my giving more than the position of some of the headlands, &c.
Our first anchorage was at 5° 40' p.m., on the 17th, in 20 fathoms, in a small bight,
called, in the chart, Seon-ping-tao, exposed to S.W. winds. Our soundings from noon
to the time of anchoring were 38, 33, 32, 27, 25, 20 fathoms, hard ground, and at a
distance of 17 miles from the South Head the bearings were as follow : High, steep,
rocky cliff" N. 02° E. ; centre of town N. 42° E. ; Soutii Head S. by W.,* sheltered
from N. Westerly to Easterly winds: lat., by observation, 38° W N., Ion. 121° 37' E.
Three islands lie off the end of this bay, two of them being connected by a spit of
sand may be considered as one, though, at a distance, appearing like two. At 1 p.m.
weighed, and ran down between the ('ap and Quoin Hock; our soundings being 20,
• This bearing must be erroneous ; it may probably mean W. by S.
470 GULF OF LEA-TONG.
17, 20 fathoms, anchored in the latter depth with the following bearings: Cap Island
saii-sium-tow. S.W. by W. | W. ; White Rugged Point VV. by S. f S. ; Island of San-shan-tow East;
lat. of anchorage 38° 52' N., Ion. 121° 53' E. The outer part of this bay affords shelter
from West, N. E., and East winds, but is exposed to S.W. winds. During our stay,
obtained some cattle from the large island of San-shan-tow. At daylight on the 21st,
weighed, and ran between the north island and the main in 18 to 20 fathoms. At 7,
a long and dangerous reef of rocks was observed on the lee bow ; at B, the rocks bore
North, the latit\ide at the time being 38° 56' N., Ion. 122° 15' E., then 1^ miles from
them. These rocks are just above water, and 8 or 9 miles from the main land. The
weather becoming thick and squally, prevented any observations at noon, and deprived
us of any farther view of the land which appeared to the northward : depth of water
17, 16, 20 fathoms. We now steered for the south extreme of an island E. by S., pass-
ing between it and some remarkable rocks, much resembling junks under sail. An-
Bcaufort chorcd uudcr the lee of an island, called Beaufort Island, in 20 fathoms, well sheltered
Island. from westerly winds, bearings as follows : island to the eastward East ; passages
E. N. E. to N. N. E. ; village S.W. by S. ; rocks N.W. by N. ; off shore half a mile.
Early on the following morning sent boats to sound passages through ; 20, 22, and 23
fathoms were found. From this anchorage weighed at 9 a.m. on the 23rd, taking the
Elliot Group, north passage. Noon, oft' the south point of Elliot Group, in lat. 39° 8' N., Ion.
122° 57' E., soundings 20, 23, and 24 fathoms. Hauled to the northward for a deep
bay formed by the numerous islands on the eastern side, soundings decreasing to 18,
12, 10, and 9 fathoms. Hauled out to the eastward, giving a good berth to an island
which has several remarkable rocks off its south end, and carrying 18 and 17 fathoms;
anchored on its eastern side; lat., by account, 39° 20' N., Ion. 123° 12° E., about
2 miles off" shore in 12 fathoms, muddy bottom. This island affords good shelter from
N.W. winds. Soon after daylight on the 24th, weighed, and stood to the S. E., carry-
ing until noon 20, 18, 16, and 14 fathoms ; anchored in the latter depth for the night.
Lat., by account, 39° 16' N., Ion. 124° 11' E. At 7 a.m. of the 25th, weighed, and
stood to the S.E., sounding, till noon, 17, 12, 15, and 19 fathoms; lat., at noon, 39° 1' N.,
Ion. 124° 39' E., when, at 1 p.m., shoaled suddenly from 21 to 10 and 8 fathoms;
Pylades, half a mile in shore in 5 fathoms; hauled out to the westward, and soon
deepened our water to 23 fathoms."
The Amherst, July 18th, 1832, anchored on the west side of a large island, in lat.
38° 17' N., Ion. 124° 50' E., called Daniels Island, which is 6 or 7 leagues from the
si> James north island of Sir James Hall's Group, the latter being in lat. 37° 56'N., Ion. 124° 45'E.,
Halls Group. ^^ ^^^ distaucc of Several leagues from the coast of Corea. There are soundings of 30
to 40 fathoms near the western side of Sir James Hall's Group, which appeared to con-
sist of three islands, the north and middle one connected by reefs, but a clear passage
between the middle and south islands : a reef projects from the S.W. point of the south
island of the group, under the south side of which island the Alceste found good
anchorage, in 7 fathoms black sand, in a bay open to the southward, but sheltered from
all winds except between S. E. and S.W., and where there were two villages. Between
this group and the coast, many other islands were discernible from the top of the
highest hill of the south island, in lat. 37° 45' N.
Gan.kcang. GAN-KEANG, Or MARJORIBANKS HARBOUR, in about lat. 36° 25' N., Ion.
126° 25' E., where the Amherst anchored in July, 1832, is formed among numerous
islands near the coast, directly to the westward of the Table Hill, and close to the
Island of Chwang-shan, where a large inlet of the sea extends to the North and N. E.,
GULF OF LEA-TONG. 471
a great way inland towards the capital city,* forming a spacious harbour between the
coast and islands, completely land-locked, with soundings mostly from 8 to 12 fathoms.
The approach is rather intricate, being bounded by numerous islets, shoals, and rocks ;
but the Amherst got a pilot to guide her into this fine harbour, which abounds with fir
timber, and where fresh water or bullocks may be obtained, by application to the man-
darins, if a ship touching there should require refreshments.
CHUI-YENG, or BASIL BAY, in lat. 30° 8' N., Ion. 126° 43' E., formed on the Basil Bay.
west side by a curved tongue of land, on which stands a peaked hill, is about 4 miles
wide, but too shoal for moderate-sized ships, there being only 2^ or 3 fathoms water
inside the point, which obliged the Alceste and Lyra to anchor far out in 5 fathoms,
and it is quite open to the southward. This bay is skirted by large villages, orna-
mented with trees, and surrounded by cultivation, both on the main land and on many
of the neighbouring islands, which form a part of the Great Corean Chain. September,
1816, the rise of tide 2| days before full moon was 15| feet, low water at 8 p.m., and Tide?.
high water at 2^ hours a.m.
From this place, the Alceste and Lyra proceeded to the southward among the
islands, in soundings of 7 or 8, to 15 or 17 fathoms, and usually anchored during the
night, when the flood tide was found sometimes runnings miles per hour to the north-
ward. Variation 2° 10' W. in lat. 35^" N., Ion. 126° 23' E., at anchor among the group
called Polaris. The southernmost part of the chain called Lyra Islands, in about lat.
34° 8' N., Ion. 126° 7' E., terminate the group which forms Murray Sound, and whicii
lie about 5 or 6 leagues farther North, and thought to be about 11 or 12 leagues from
the coast of Corea. Other islands lie farther to the westward, the outermost of which,
High Peaked Island, Captain Ross made in lat. 34° 6' N., Ion. 125° 15' E. ; it is of con-
siderable size, with a village on the side of the hill, and it forms the S.W. limit of the
great chain of islands, extending nearly North and South, parallel to the western coast
of Corea.
QUELPCERT, or QUELPERT, extends 12 or 14 leagues in a N. E. and S.W. Queip«rt.
direction, and is about 8 or 9 leagues in breadth, the S. W. extremity being in about lat.
33° 10' N., Ion. 126° 30' E. This island is of considerable height, highly cultivated,
detached from the Corean chain and smaller islands, which line the peninsula of
Corea, and it is thought to be subject to the government of Japan. The inhabitants
have been hitherto unfavourably inclined towards strangers, and in the last century,
retained in a state of captivity the crew of a Dutch ship that was wrecked here.
About 6 or 7 leagues to the westward of the island the depths are 47 and 15 fathoms,
decreasing gradually to the northward to 34 fathoms near the western part of Lyra
Islands, betwixt which and Quelpoert some other isles and dangers were seen by Capt.
Broughton, of the Providence surveying vessel, in 1797.
Capt. Barlow, of H.M.S. Nimrod, makes the following remarks: — " Weighed from capt. Barlow's
Chusan, steering N. E. for Quelpccrt; saw the land ahead at least 45 miles distant;
sounded in 45 fathoms, light mud. Observed two long, low islands close in with the
land, named Cattle Island and South Island. Cattle Island is about 2 miles from
Quelpccrt and 4 miles from South Island ; they lie nearly North and South of eacli
other. On the S.W. side of Quelpasrt is a very remarkable hill, much resembling a
helmet; it is high, and can be seen a considerable distance. Off the north end is
* King-ki-tno, the meti-opolis of Corea, is said to be in about lat. 37" 25' N., having a large river running
near it, and falling into the Inlet or Gulf of Gan-keang.
remarks.
472
FROM CANTON RIVER TO MANILA.
Winds.
anothei- small island, Avhich makes in two hummocks. After standing off and on for
two days, sent a boat to sound, and found anchorage between the Helmet and Cattle
Island. The following morning stood in shore, keeping well to the northward, and
ran along the coast at the distance of 3 miles off: no soundings at 40 and 50 fathoms.
Ran in about mid -channel between the large island and Cattle Island, and anchored
in 13 fathoms ; the Helmet on with a bluff point N. E. by N. ; east end of Cattle
Island S. by E. ; West end S. W. by S. This anchorage is by no means safe, parti-
cularly with S. E. winds. It suddenly came on to blow, and the Nimrod was obliged
to run out. The anchorage is in 34° 14' N., Ion. 126° 17' E. A ship wishing to make
the anchorage sliould get in with the land some distance to the north-westward of the
Helmet, and run down along shore. No dangers were visible except a small rock,
on which the sea breaks heavily, about half a mile to the northward of Cattle Island :
off its east end are several small rocks, which appear like a ledge."
THE MONSOONS and WINDS on the eastern coast of China, particularly on
the Fokien coast, are described as follows by Capt. J. Rees, who has had great expe-
rience in those localities.
The North-east Monsoon set in with strong gales September 18th, 1833 ; and again,
September 19th, 1834, with similar weather.
In October, November, December, and January, light southerly winds intervene at
times for one or two days, with heavy dew in the night : the change is always sudden
from the southward to N. E., and the wind from this quarter blows so strong for three
or four days, that a ship can scarcely carry any sail, and consequently loses ground ;
at such times it is best to run for some sheltered anchorage, until the wind becomes
moderate.
In February and March, the southerly breezes are of longer duration, three or four
days at times, but liable to the same sudden change.
In April the weather becomes mild, with a prevalence of N. E. winds.
PASSAGE BETWEEN CANTON RIVER AND MANILA,
ALSO BETWEEN CANTON RIVER AND PULO AOR.
From Macao
to Manila, in
the South-west
Monsoon.
PASSAGE BETWEEN CANTON RIVER AND MANILA.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS for sailing to and from China have been given in
the Section which commences at page 292 ; in addition to which, some brief directions
may be useful to such persons as are unacquainted with this navigation.
The Portuguese and Spanish ships which trade between Macao and Manila sail
backwards and forwards in either monsoon. Departing from the Macao Road in the
South-west Monsoon, if bound to Manila, take an opportunity, when practicable, to
sail when the wind veers to the south-eastward or eastward, with which steer S. S.W.
and to the southward, and endeavour to get soundings on the Macclesfield Bank.
The passage may then be considered secure j for unless the wind hang at South
soon.
FROM CANTON RIVER TO PULO AOR. 473
or S. S. E., you will be able to reach IVIanila Bay without tacking, and if it be
to the southward, steer to tall in with Goat Island, or the land on the south side
that bay.
In the North-east Monsoon, if bound to Manila, work out by Lema Channel, and Passage in ti.e
endeavour to keep to the eastward, in crossing over for the N. W. part of Luzon ^'- ^^f""
about Cape Bolina, for a leeward current may be expected when N. Easterly winds
prevail. Having approached Cape Bolina or the coast near it, a good berth should be
given to that cape, on account of its contiguous shoals : after passing it and the Sisters,
the coast ought to be approached within 4 to 6 leagues, and the same distance pre-
served from it will be proper until to the southward of the islets and rocks oft' Point
Capones ; from thence, the coast should be kept aboard to Manila Bay.
The South-west Monsoon is favourable for sailing from Manila to Macao, and you Return to
may then steer direct for the Grand Ladrone; if the wind is steady at S.W. when the s'w!°Mon!'^
coast of China is approached, endeavour to make the Grand Ladrone bearing about soon.
N. by E. or North ; but if it incline to veer to the northward or eastward, steer for the
east end of the Great Lema, and proceed in by that channel.
Departing from Manila Bay, and bound to Macao in the North-east Monsoon, Return in the
coast along to Cape Bolina; from thence you may stretch oft", if the wind admit a ^'J^; ■^'"""
northerly course to be steered ; but with the wind between N. E. and North, par-
ticularly in ships which sail indifterently, it will be proper to work along the coast,
or to keep near it till abreast of Cape Bajadore, before they stand oft" for the coast of
China.
PASSAGE BETWEEN CANTON RIVER AND PULO AOR.
THE OUTER PASSAGE, from Macao towards Pulo Aor, by the Macclesfield From Macao
Bank, should only be adopted in March and April, at the commencement of, and by the Outer
during the strength of the North-east Monsoon, the inner passage along the coast of Passage.
Cochin-China being preferable.
Departing from Macao Road, if the outer passage is to be followed, keep within a
moderate distance to the west sides of Potoe and the adjoining islands ; when the wind
blows strong and hangs far to eastward, there is generally a heavy sea upon the beam,
with a leeward current, rendering it necessary to steer about S. S. E. from the Grand
Ladrone, to get soundings on the Macclesfield Bank. With the wind at N. E. and mo-
derate weather, a course S. by E. ^ E. will generally carry you over the eastern part of
that bank; but if Ion. 1° East of the Grand Ladrone is exceeded, the getting of
soundings will be uncertain, for in such case you will probably pass to the eastward of
the bank.
If the outer passage be pursued in November or December, when strong gales and
cloudy weather are sometimes of several days' continuance, preventing observations
from being obtained, soundings should be got if possible upon the Macclesfield Bank ;
but if your situation is known correctly by chronometers, it can be of little utility to
sound ; for the bank being about 1° in extent from East to West, with various irregidar
depths on it, your exact position cannot be always ascertained by the soundings. I'rom
the Macclesfield Bank the course is S.W \ to Pulo Sapata, but from having soundings
on that bank, or being in its latitude, the best course to steer is S.AV. i, S. until in the
parallel of Pulo Sapata ; and if then the island is not seen, steer S.W. by W. or
W.S.W. till in 35 or 30 fathoms water. In dark blowing weather, when the true
VOL. II. 3 p
474 FROM CANTON RIVER TO PULO AOR.
position of a sliip is not ascertained by clironometer, or otherwise, it would be dan-
o-eroiis to steer direct for Piilo Sapata, or to make it in the night : at such times it is
seldom seen in passing, for ships generally give it a wide berth, by keeping well to the
eastward until they have crossed the parallel of lat. 10° N., and then they steer S.W. by
W. or W. S.W. to get into soundings. Some ships steer S.W. by S. from the Mac-
clesfield Bank, till nearly in the latitude of Pulo Sapata, and pass this island a great
way to the eastward, which is proper in March, April, or May: but in steering that
course a good look-out will be requisite, in case of S. Easterly currents carrying you
in sight of some of the shoals which lie to the E. N. Eastward and eastward of Pulo
Sapata.
Having got into lat. 10° N., steer between S.W. by W. and W. S.W. until in
.35 fathoms water, then about S. S.W. ^ W., or S. S.W. | W., for Pulo Aor or Pulo
Timoan, if bound to Singapore Strait; observing not to deepen above 30 or .32
fathoms in crossing lat. 7° 6' N., in order to avoid the coral bank discovered by the
Charlotte, wliich has been mentioned at page .325. But in March or April, ships
bound to Europe should keep well to the eastward, and j^roceed between the Natunas
and Anambas, and afterwards through the Straits of Caspar.
Inner Passage. THE IjNNER PASSAGE,* from Macao to Pulo Aor, should always be pursued
early in the season, and during the strength of the North-east Monsoon ; it is more
direct than the other, and when blowing strong, great ease is afforded to ships deeply
laden, by steering from the Grand Lad rone directly before the wind.
To proceed by this passage, a S. S.W. ^ W. course steered direct from Potoe, or from
the Grand Ladrone, will lead fair between the Taya Islands and St. Esprit Bank; the
same course continued will carry you in the proper channel to the westward of the
Paracel Shoals. The North Shoal bears S. 24° W. from the Grand Ladrone, distant
108 leagues, and if sights are obtained for chronometers, the course may be regulated
accordingly; a S. S.W.IW. course will place you about 2° 50' or 3° West of the
Grand Ladrone when in lat. 17° N., which is well to the westward of the North Shoal,
it being 2° 10' West of that island.
If dark weather deprive you of observations, the ship will generally be to the west-
ward of the reckoning by account ; for the current, which sets strong to the westward
close along the coast of China, continues outside, with an abated velocity, seldom
exceeding 15 or 20 miles in 24 hours. Betwixt the northern extremity of the Paracels
and the island of Hainan, the current sets mostly about W. S.W., particularly if the
wind be at E. N. E. ; its velocity depends on the prevailing wind : with moderate
breezes, about 15 miles of westerly set may be expected daily in the track from the
Grand Ladrone towards the coast of Cochin-China, but if strong gales are experienced,
the current will probably run about one mile per hour to the westward, or rather more,
at times.
* This passage was frequented by the Company's ships in early times, and constantly by the homeward-bound
ships, upwards of a century ago : the Carolina, from England, bound to China by Sunda and Banca Straits,
went by the Inner Passage in May, 1683, and passed in sight of Hainan.
The Fort St. David, from China, in December, 1752, proceeded by it, and saw the island Tinhosa, after-
wards made the coast of Cochin-China in lat. 13° N., and passed between Holland Bank and Pulo Ceicer de Terre.
The Inner Passage, however preferable to the other, had been relinquished for a long period by English
navigators, until several ships having suffered damage, and some having foundered with their crews, by hauling
up for Macclesfield Bank, after leaving the Grand Ladrone, the Inner Passage was again resorted to, l)y a few-
experienced commanders, about 40 years ago, and since the limits of the Paracels have been ascertained, it is
now generally adopted by homeward-bound ships.
FROM CANTON RIVER TO PULO AOR. 475
If the current is found to set strong to the westward, a course between S. S.W. and
S. S.W. ^ W. may be pursued, but not more southerly until in lat. 17° N., and fairly in
the entrance of the channel to the westward of the shoals. When in this latitude, and
3° West of the Grand Ladrone, by chronometers, or, by account, a course about S.^W. or
S. by W. may be steered, to make the coast about Cape Varela. With clear weather, Passage aion?
and the wind steady at N. E. or N. JN. E., Pulo Canton may be approached, or any cochiTchina
part of the land to the southward of that island may be made, and coasted along at a
moderate distance ; but with thick weather, and the wind inclining from eastward, it
is prudent not to haul close in for the coast until abreast of Cape Varela, in case of
getting into the deep bay of Phuyen to the northward of that cape. If the conical
mountain at the north part of this bay is discerned, it may be useful as a mark to point
out the distance from Cape Varela, if night be approaching, or if the funnel on the
Cape Mountain be obscured by clouds.
When to the southward of lat. 1-5^ N., the current near the land begins to set strong
to the southward ; from lat. 14^° to ll^° N., it frequently sets southward along the
coast during the strength of the North-east Monsoon, at the rate of 40 or 50, and some-
times 00 miles in 24 hours; but it is not always so strong, and becomes weaker beyond
these limits.
If the land has not been seen prior to reaching Cape Varela, it should then be ap-
proached, and kept within the distance of 4 or 5 leagues : from abreast the Cape at the
distance of .3 to 5 miles, a course steered South or S. ^ E. leads fair from point to point
for 6 or 8 leagues ; but in the night, steer South from the cape until about 9 leagues
from it, to give a berth to Pyramid Island, and the others around. This island will be
seen in passing a few miles outside of it in the night, if the weather is clear, and may
be known by its conical appearance ; from hence the course is S. |^ W. to pass near the
Water Islands, lying about 7 leagues farther southward ; these may also be perceived
in passing. Being thus far advanced, if the land appear to be distant more than 4
leagues, steer S. by W., or rather more westerly, to get a good sight of the high oblong-
mountain over False Cape Varela, which, in coming from the northward, may be dis-
tinguished in the night from the other prominent parts of land, by its great magnitude,
high appearance, and by its sloping towards the sea with a gentle declivity.
If you intend to keep along the coast, and pass to the westward of Holland Bank,
from abreast the southern part of the high land of False Cape Varela, steer S. S.W. or
S. S.W. ^ W. across the Bay of Padaran ; for here, the current diverging tVom the line
of coast to S. S. Eastward is liable to carry a ship off the land, which, in such case,
she would find it difficult to regain. Soundings of 40 to •'50 fathoms will be got when
crossing the Bay of Padaran, if not too far out : steering across the bay about S. S.W.
to S. S.W. ^ W. in the night, if not very dark, Cape Padaran will be perceived nearly
ahead, or a little on the starboard bow, and cannot be mistaken ; for the land in the
bottom of the bay is not discernible in the night.
When the cape is seen, steer towards it, and pass at from 1 to 2 leagues' distance:
from this point, a S.W. by W. course will carry you about the same distance outside
Pulo Ceicer de Terre ; but if Cape Padaran is only about 1 or 2 miles distant when
abreast, a S.W. course will be reipiired to |)ass at a few miles' distance outside Pulo
Ceicer de Terre. Having passed this island in daylight, from 1 to 2^ leagues' dis-
tance, steer about S.W. by W., and bring it to bear N. by E. | E. before losing sight
of it from the deck ; steer then S.W. by S. about (i or 7 leagues, which will carry you
clear to the westward of Holland Bank, and afterwards steer S. S.W. t W. direct for
Pulo A or.
3 p 2
476 FROM CANTON RIVER TO PULO AOR.
In the night if the weather is clear, you may pass through the channel with safety,
when the Gap of Padaran can be discerned. In such case, from being 3, 4, or 5 miles
oft' Cape Padaran, steer between S.W. and S.W. by W. until the gap is open: when it
bears N. by E., Pulo Ceicer de Terre is coming on with it, and if the water shoals to
10 or 11 fathoms, edge out a little to the southward ; for the island is low, and should
not be approached so close as to see it in the night, particularly as the soundings are
irregular in this part of the channel, and not a sufficient guide. When the Gap of Pa-
daran is brought to bear N. by E. | E., Pulo Ceicer de Terre is on with it ; steer then
between S.W. and S.W. by S. 6 or 7 leagues to clear the west end of Holland Bank,
and afterwards S. S.W. ^ W. for Pulo Aor. If the night become dark, so as to obscure
the land and the gap, when abreast of, and near Padaran Cape, a course steered be-
tween S.W. ^ W. and S.W. ^S. will be proper till about 12 or 13 leagues' distance
from the cape; observing to haul oft' from Pulo Ceicer de Terre or the coast, if the
water shoal to 11 fathoms; and not to deepen above 21 or 20 fathoms towards Hol-
land Bank. From the west end of this bank, the nearest part of Britto Bank is distant
about 10 or 17 leagues in a W.S.W. direction, by which a wide channel is affc^rded
for passing between them in the night. To keep in 16 to 18 fathoms is a good track
from Pulo Ceicer de Terre until about 5 or 6 leagues past it; or if 12 or 13 leagues to
the S. Westward of Cape Padaran, a S.W. by S. course may be steered for 2 or 3 leagues
farther, to be certain of giving the west end of Holland Bank a good berth. Do not
deepen above 21 fathoms until clear of it, nor decrease the depth under 17 fathoms
towards Britto Bank, if you run far to the westward : from 21 to 19 fathoms are good
depths in the channel between these banks, and having rounded the west end of the
former in 20 and 21 fathoms, the direct course is S. S.W. ^ W. for Pulo Aor.
The passage between Pulo Ceicer de Terre and Holland Bank can only be followed
by persons unacquainted in daylight ; many ships have, therefore, been obliged to
heave to off" Cape Varela in the night, by which they laboured greatly when blow-
ing strong, with a heavy sea, and lost much time. The route outside of Pulo Ceicer
de Mer and Pulo Sapata is therefore now justly preferred to the inside passage in the
night, and even in the daytime, by the generality of navigators.
Directions for If near the high land of False Cape Varela in the evening, with dark blowing
5"Lpata"''^ weather, rendering it unpleasant to heave to, or to run for the channel between Hol-
land Bank and Pulo Ceicer de Terre, steer about South, or S. ^ E., to pass to the east-
ward of Pulo Ceicer de Mer and Pulo Sapata on the following morning ; or if the
weather is very dark, steer more to S. S. Eastward, to give a wide berth to these islands
in passing; for when blowing strong, the current runs with great velocity W. S.W. or
S.W,, whereby several ships have been horsed down upon Pulo Sapata, and were
obliged to run through the narrow channel between it and the Little Catwick in
dark nights, as mentioned, under the description of the Little Catwick, in a former
section. In clear weather, during the day, you may pass near the east side of Pulo
Ceicer de Mer at discretion, and then steer S. Westward between it and the Great Cat-
wick, as circumstances require: or occasionally, between the Great and Little Cat-
wicks, if care be taken to give a berth to La Paix Rock, lying nearly in mid-channel
betwixt these islands : from hence, steer direct for Pulo Aor.
When near the latitude of Pulo Timoan in thick weather, keep in 32 or 33 fathoms
water, which will carry you to the eastward of that island, and directly towards Pulo
Aor, as has been already mentioned in the description of these islands : they are some-
times enveloped in clouds of vapour or dark haze, and care, therefore, must be taken
not to run upon them in the night. Near the Anambas, and to the northward of them,
FROM CANTON RIVER TO PULO AOR AND BANCA STRAIT. 477
the depths are generally between 40 and 50 fathoms to lat. 5° or 5^° N., decreasing
on the west side of the channel to 35 and 30 fathoms near the meridian of Pulo
Timoan.
Having passed on the east side of Pulo Aor, at 2, 3, or 4 leagues' distance, if bound f™'" i'"i"
to Banca Strait, steer S. S. E. I E. or S. S. E., according as the prevailing winds and trance of Banca
current require, to pass outside Geldria Shoal, which will be avoided by not coming S'™^-
under 23 or 24 fathoms in crossing from lat. 0° 40' to 0° 56' N. ; and after clearing it,
steer about S. S.W. to cross the ecjuator in 20 fathoms : the same course continued
will carry you about 4 or 5 leagues off the east point of Lingin, if there is no oblique
current ; but be cautious tiiat the westerly current, which sometimes prevails, does not
set you upon the llchester Shoal, lying to the southward of that point.
From abreast the east point of Lingin at 5 leagues' distance, the course is about
S. S.W. \ W. to pass between Pulo Taya and the Seven Islands ; but if the east point
of the former is passed at a great distance, a S. Westerly course may be requisite to
effect that purpose. Having passed through between Pulo Taya and the Seven Islands,
the course is S. by W. towards Batacarang Point, forming the west side of the entrance
of Banca Strait ; and this point ought to be approached to 6i or 7 fathoms, to avoid
the Frederic Hendric Rocks. Conform then to the directions already given for Sail-
ing frovi the 7iorthward through the Straits of Banca and Snnda.
When the SOUTH-WEST MONSOOiN is set fairly in, ships bound to Canton ^™™/^^«^^„
River ought to proceed by the Outer Passage. After having passed near Pulo Aor Rrver^by^ti'ie"
on the east side, a N. N. E. |^ E. course would carry a ship direct towards PuloSapata, outer Passage.
were it not for an easterly current setting frequently out of the Gulf of Siam, which
generally leads ships several leagues to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, when that course
has been pursued from Pulo Aor. To avoid passing near the Charlotte Bank in lat.
7° 6' N., it may be proper for a large ship to steer from Pulo Aor N. N. E. until in
that latitude, and from thence N.E. by N. to see Pulo Sapata; but if sights are not
obtained for chronometers, the approach to this island will be known by tlie sound-
ings, already described under the articles Pulo Condore and Great Catwick.
Having passed to the eastward of Pulo Sapata at 4 to 6 or 7 leagues' distance, the
course is IN. E. ^ N. to get soundings on the middle of the Macclesfield Bank ; and in
this track also a set to the eastward is often experienced in the South-west Monsoon.
From having soundings on the eastern part of that bank, the course is N. by W. to the
Grand Ladrone, which a ship ought to endeavour to make bearing about North or N.
by E. if the wind be steady, and blowing strong at S. Westward or Southward. It is
improper in any season to fall in with the land to the westward about St. John.
Ships passing Pulo Sapata after the middle of September should keep to the east-
ward after they are in lat. 12° or 13° N., being then to the northward of the shoals, for
as they advance to the northward, N. E. or E. N. E. winds may be expected. U ith
these winds they ought to make long stretches to the northward ; and short tacks must
be made to the eastward at times, when the shifts of wind are favourable, to keep up
the easting. In October, a ship ought to endeavour to get near the coast of Luzon,
and until she has passpd to the northward of Cape Bolina, she should not stretch off
for the China coast, and great caution is required wlien crossing the latitude of the
Fratas Shoal.
478
FROM PULO AOR TO AND FROM MANILA, BY THE
OUTER PASSAGE, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF
MANILA BAY.
Passage to SHIPS BOUND TO MANILA, from Pulo Aor, should steer from Pulo Sapata
Manila. N.E., but iiot morc easterly until in lat. 12° or 12|°N., on account of the numerous
shoals to the eastward of that island ; because they extend to about lat. 1 1° 40' or
1 1° 45' N., the northernmost bearing about E.N.E. or N.E. by E. f E. from Pulo Sapata.
Having got into lat. 12° 30' N., a direct course may be steered, to make Goat Island
and Luban, situated about 12 or 13 leagues to the S. Westward of the entrance of
Manila Bay, leaving Fortune Island about 3 leagues on the starboard side. This island
lies 6 or 7 miles ofl' the coast of Luzon, and bears S. by W. ^ W. from Corregidor, the
large island in the entrance of Manila Bay; it is small, high, and rocky. After
passing Goat Island to the northward at 3 or 4 leagues' distance, steer direct for the
Island Mariveles, or Corregidor, which is in the entrance of Manila Bay, and bears
from Goat Island N. E. ^ E., distant about 15 leagues.
*&'
MANILA BAY is a large inlet in the S.W. coast of Luzon, and is about 22
miles in extent each way ; the city of Manila stands on its eastern shore, about 25 miles
from the entrance.
Corregidor, or Mariveles, the principal island in the entrance to Manila Bay, lies
over towards the north shore, and is about 12 miles in length East and West. There
is fresh water to be procured under a steep cliff at its western end, but the landing is
on a stony beach, and is inconvenient. The land on both sides Manila Bay is high,
and on the north side, nearly fronting Corregidor, lies Mariveles Bay, about a mile
wide, and H miles deep, with good anchorage, sheltered from all but S.E.and S.S.E.
winds : ships of any size may moor here, and procure excellent water. Some rocky
islets project one mile oft' the S.W. point of the entrance; these are called the Puer-
cos, or Hogs : ships may anchor in 17 fathoms, with the village bearing N.W. by W.,
or they may run farther into the bay if necessary ; the bottom being good holding
ground, and the anchorage safe. This is a convenient place for ships to touch at when
in want of wood and water, the former being an expensive article at Manila.
Soundings of 50 to 40 fathoms will be got when within 2^ or 2 leagues of Corregidor,
decreasing gradually to 27 or 2G fathoms about 2 miles to the westward of it. Pulo
Cavallo, a high bluff rock, of considerable size, partially covered with verdure, bears
from Corregidor S. E. by S. about half a mile : and the Fraile rock or islet, which ap-
pears like a sail, is about 2| or 3 miles S. S. Eastward from Pulo Cavallo, towards the
south shore. Pulo Cavallo is steep to, with soundings of 20 to 17 fathoms between it
and the shore ; but a reef and straggling rocks extend between it and the Island Cor-
regidor. The Nun, or Haycock, another pretty high rock, bears from Corregidor W,
f S. about 2^ miles, with 27 fathoms water within a quarter of a mile of it all round.
The soundings from it decrease regularly to 20 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of the
MANILA BAY, LUZON. 479
north shore, and deepen to 29 or 30 fathoms near the N.W. part of Corregidor, close
to which there is a perforated rock.
Betuixt Corregidor and the north shore the depths are 50 and 48 fathoms, within a
quarter of a mile of the island, 26 fathoms in mid-channel, decreasing quickly to 16 or
15 fathoms, stony ground, within a quarter of a mile of the north shore.
When about 2 leagues to the westward of Corregidor, steer for it ; with a fair wind,
the common passage is between it and the Haycock, afterwards on the north side of
Corregidor. From hence to Manila the course is N. E. by E. f E., distant 1 1 leagues,
and to Cavite E. by N. |^ N. 8 or 9 leagues. St. IXicholas Shoal, on the eastern side of
the passage, is mucli in the way, having only 11 feet water on its outer edge, with the
N.W. part of Corregidor bearing W. 13° S., and Cavite Church E. ]7°N. ; within a
ship's length of it to the N.W. there are 13 and 15 fathoms water, the soundings
being no guide in approaching it, because the bank is so steep. The mark to
avoid this shoal is to keep the Haycock open with the North or N.W. part of
Corregidor bearing W. S.W. until the steeple of Cavite Church bear East, and a
remarkable hummock, which stands close to the sea upon a point of land on the north
shore, N.W. by W. ^ W. : being then clear of St. Nicholas Siioal, steer for Cavite or
Manila, at discretion.
In the fair channel, between the shoal and the north shore, the depths are 17 and
18 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards that shore to 5 and 4 fathoms; and in steer-
ing eastward, the depths also decrease regularly to 5 fathoms oft' Cavite, w here ships
anchor a little more than a mile oft" shore in that depth, the bottom all stift'mud.
W hen the wind is blowing from the eastward, out of the bay, the current runs out
through the North Channel to the westward ; it is therefore proper, at such times, to
adopt the channel between Corregidor and the south shore, it having more room to
work to windward, and no hidden danger. To enter the bay by this channel, caution '
is requisite when you come abreast the easternmost high land on the south shore, which
bears S. E. ^ E. from Corregidor; for the trail of St. Nicholas Shoal trends away gra-
dually towards this highland, and the water may shoal suddenly in approaching it,
from 12 to 7 or 6 fathoms, rocky ground. Do not, therefore, come under 12 or
13 fathoms, nor under 15 or 16 fathoms when rather to the eastward, and keep the
Haycock then open with the north part of Corregidor; from 15 fatlioms water, the
next cast may be 7, and then 4 fathoms on the verge of St. Nicholas Shoal, when the
Haycock is shut in with Corregidor.
Within three-quarters or half a mile of the east part of Corregidor there are 22 and
23 fathoms, and when it can be rounded, stand over for and work along the north
shore, which has 15 or 16 fathoms within a quarter of a mile, and 10 or 12 fathoms
about a cable's length oft": although, in some places, the water shoals suddenly from
15 to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, there is no invisible danger; and when past the Corregi-
dor, the north shore has good anchorage over a sandy bottom. Farther to the North
and eastward this shore becomes more flat, the soundings decreasing regularly from
10 to 8, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms close in shore.
The tides in Manila Bay are irregular; with an easterly wind, the ebb runs out 18 Tides,
hours together, betwixt Corregidor and the north shore, pretty strong ; the flood about
6 hours to the eastward, sometimes weak, at other times witli considerable strength :
the perpendicular rise is about 3 feet.
The North-east Monsoon blows strong out of Manila Bay at times, accompanied by xonh-cast
a cloud resembling smoke, which is driven out of the bay to the S.W., and forms an
arch in that horizon, when the sky is otherwise clear ; but sometimes sea breezes from
Monsoon.
480
MANILA BAY, LUZON.
Cavite
Ancliorage at
Afanila.
Manila City.
S. Westward blow into the bay in the North-east Monsoon after mid-day, increasing
in strength as you advance into the bay.
Cavity, in lat. 14° 29' N., is the port and marine arsenal of Manila, where ships
are built, and to which those are hove down that want repairs, it having excellent
conveniences for that purpose. It is well fortified, and situated on a low point of
land, which forms a good harbour or cove ; the deepest water in it is 6 or 7 fathoms,
soft mud, with shelter from West and S. W. winds. As the water in the wells
here is brackish, the inhabitants are supplied with fresh water from tiie river by
Old Cavite.
The course from Cavite to Manila is N. N. E. ^ E. about 3 leagues, and from the
former, the depths increase regularly to 8 or 9 fathoms, about mid-way, then gradu-
ally decrease to 4^ or 4 fathoms off Manila. With a turning wind between them, a
ship may approach the shore to 5 or 4^ fathoms, the bank fronting it being very flat,
and composed of soft mud.
A good berth to anchor in Manila Road is in 5 fathoms water, about a mile off,
with the north bastion N. 37^° E., the S.W. bastion E. 20° N., the cupola E. 37° N.,
and the fishing stakes at the river's mouth N. 18° E. Large ships generally anchor at
Cavite Harbour.
Manila City, the capital of Luzon, one of the largest of the Philippine Islands,
and the seat of the Spanish government in the East, is situated in lat. 14° 30' N.,
Ion. 121° 2^' E., by an observation of Jupiter's satellite, corroborated by chronometers.*
It is large and convenient for trade, the country adjacent producing excellent indigo,
sugar, tobacco, hemp for cordage, &c. ; but the inhabitants around are indolent, and
will not cultivate the ground to rear these articles, unless an agreement is previously
made with them, and money paid in advance. Some trade is carried on with China,
Batavia, and several of the Philippine Islands; but the chief dependance of this place
was formerly on the trade to Acapulco, carried on in two or three ships, which usually
sailed in March or April from that place, and arrived at Manila in August or Septem-
ber, but not always regularly. f
During the months of June, July, and August, the air of Manila is rendered impure
by noxious exhalations arising from the swampy land around ; and the weather being
sultry, with much rain at times, febrile complaints are then likely to appear.
Firewood is scarce here and at Cavity, it being brought from the interior. Ships
moored in the road may water expeditiously, by sending their boats into the river as far
as the bridge, where the water is good.
Captain Goodwyn, of the ship Florentia, visited Manila in May : the following parti-
culars respecting it are taken from his remarks. " This celebrated city, which in the year
1740 contained only from 6,000 to 7,000 inhabitants, now contains 80,000. The po-
pulation of the island is estimated by the Government returns at 4,390,000 souls. The
fortifications are good ; the guns (those towards the water side) are mostly 24-pounders,
* This is the longitude of Manila, as determined by Captain Ross, in the Company's surveying ship Disco-
very, and he made it 12° 1' E. of Pulo Sapata, by chronometers. The French circumnavigator. La Perouse,
made the longitude of Manila about 3 miles farther East than Captain Ross ; but Mons. Gentil made it in Ion.
120° 51 i' E., which was long thought to be its true longitude. Don J. Vernacci made it in Ion. 120^ 55' East of
Greenwich, so that its true longitude seems not yet determined.
t These galleons did not sail together, nor exactly at stated periods, from Manila, but usually in July or
August ; they sometimes went round the north end of Luzon, at other times through the Straits of Manila or
St. Bernardino, and arrived at Acapulco about Christmas, or generally between the early part of November and
middle of January. They sometimes arrived at Manila in July, and generally made the Island Samar about
Cape Spirito Santo, then came in by the strait of St. Bernardino.
PROM PULO AOR TO AND FROM MANILA. 481
but having been cast here, are not to be relied on. The principal breastwork on the
citadel is a battery of 24 guns, abreast of the anchorage, with a cross fire from the
north and south bastions, besides two other outworks of about 14 guns. These last
cannot be brought to bear until a ship is in 3 fathoms water, and cannot do much
execution except w hen landing any force within their range ; any force landing to the
northward or southward of the town might take possession of the suburbs instantly,
and of the city afterwards, as the ditch round the walls might be easily waded, it
being nearly filled up with mud. Even if the bridge were destroyed, the ruins would
fill it, and almost make a passage for storming. To the northward I am not aware of
defence, but to the southward is a battery, about a mile from the fort, near some
barracks, where there is always a regiment .... The British did not appear to be
favourites with the governor ; it was particularly noticed that he never returned or
acknowledged their salute when meeting, and therefore, after this slight, many of them
discontinued their salute to him. His excellency had also issued orders for all guns
in the hands of merchants (and they were mostly in the hands of the English) to be
sent to the artillery ground as a depot, and it was asserted that he had been very
minute in his inquiries respecting foreigners resident in or arriving at the place ; and
that if the British fleet wanted provisions or refreshments, they were to be supplied at
some of the ports to the northward, as he objected to their coming into Manila Bay."
" The imports of Manila are chiefly British manufactures, linens and cottons, hard-
ware, and articles of British produce, French and German toys and goods, wines, &c.
Its exports are sugars, rice, hemp, tobacco, hides, and cotton ; a small quantity of
coflte, indigo, rhubarb, native cloths, and hats. Since the opium receiving-ships left
Canton River, this port has become the depot for opium, and vessels carrying on the
trade come over here for their supply. They are very smart vessels, and are well
manned and armed. Provisions are here very cheap : the beef is good, though small ; supplies.
mutton is scarce ; pigs, poultry, and vegetables are good and reasonable ; fruit plentiful
and cheap. Water is obtained for the shipping by proceeding a few miles up the
river, until it is found fresh enough ; low water is the best time to fill the casks.
Water in Manila is kept in tanks in the houses, and some is brought down from the
upper part of the river for the use of the place."
DEPARTING FROM MANILA, if bound to the straits of Banca or Malacca, the y°J^^»^;;.,^ ^^
North-east Monsoon is the proper season ; and in sailing out of the bay, ships should pX'ao".'"' "
conform to the directions given for entering it, and to the marks for avoiding St. Nicho-
las Shoal. Having cleared the bay, steer'W. by S. until in lat. 12° N. and 9° W. from
Goat Island by chronometer: if the longitude is not ascertained by chronometer or by
lunar observations, do not come to the southward of lat. 12° N. until 9° of West
meridian distance has been made from Goat Island. From this situation steer
S.W.for Pulo Sapata, observing that a westerly current in this season is likely to
carry a ship ahead of the reckoning : if, on the contrary, Pulo Sapata is not seen when
in its latitude, steer S.W. by W. or W'. S.W. to get into soundings, then S. S.NV. ^ W. for
Pulo Aor ; agreeably to the directions given in the last section for sailing by the
Outer Passage from Macao to Pulo Aor.
VOL. II. 3 u
482
SHOALS IN THE SOUTH-EASTERN PART OF THE CHINA
SEA, WITH PALAWAN ISLAND AND PASSAGE.
Shoals in the
S. E. part of
the China Sea.
Nortli-eastern
dangers.
THE ARCHIPELAGO of sand-banks, rocks, or reefs above and under water,
lying between the coast of Palawan and Pulo Sapata, is so extensive, and the dangers
that form it so numerous, that there can be little utility in entering into a minute
description of them, for indeed they ought to be avoided by all navigators. No ship
can enter within the limits of this dangerous Archipelago without getting embarrassed
amidst the shoals ; there are strong currents or irregular tides among them, which
render a ship's place very uncertain when observations cannot be obtained ; and the rise
and fall of the tide is considerable amongst the shoals during the springs. Although
some ships have with difficulty and risk passed through them, others have struck or
lost their anchors among the extensive coral flats ; and the Fanny, the Betsy, and
many other ships, have been wrecked nearly in the middle of the Archipelago.
It seems, therefore, only necessary to describe briefly the exterior limits of those
dangers.
From the west coast of Palawan, the shoals extend N.W. and West, to within about
1^° of the meridian of Pulo Sapata, as the Forth Shoal is the westernmost known
danger. This and the Alexander Shoal appear to be detached from the great mass,
being 27 leagues to the N.W. of the West London Reefs.
Between several of the shoals there are channels, from 6 or 8 to 15 leagues wide ; and
between the outer shoals off Palawan and those which lie within 5 or 6 leagues of that
island there is a channel about 8 or 9 leagues wide. In these channels, and close to the
outer reefs, there are no soundings.
THE NORTH-EASTERNMOST knoivn danger is a reef of breakers, in lat.
10" 49' N., Ion. 117° 10' E., distant about 30 leagues from the coast of Palawan,
seen in 1803 by the brig Pennsylvania. About 15 leagues farther eastward, in lat.
10° 57' N., about Ion. 117° 53' E., there is a bank of coral and white sand, extending
about a mile East and West, and a quarter of a mile broad, with soundings on it from
8 to 1 1 fathoms, discovered by the Sea Horse in 1776. The ship Bombay, Capt. Routh,
in November, 1836, passed over the west end of a coral reef, which was visible under
the sliip's bottom, the water being green and disturbed to windward. The reef
appeared to be about half a mile in extent. Lat. 10° 40' N., Ion. 1 17° 50' E. : sound-
ings immediately after passing the shoal 65 fathoms. This may probably be a conti-
nuation of the Sea Horse Bank.
The Minerva, Captain Templer, passed over a bank, to the north-westward of the
Sea Horse Bank, in November, 1835, having from 10 to 17 fathoms water on it; the
bank appeared to extend about 4 miles North and South, and as no discoloured water
was seen to the eastward, but several apparently shoal patches were perceived to the
westward, it is supnnsed that the shin nassed over the eastern part of the bank. The
centre of the bank
ipposed that the ship passed over the eastern part of
k is in lat. 11° 7' N.,lon. 117° 21' E.
SHOALS AND DANGERS TO THE WESTWARD OF PALAWAN. 483
THE NORTHERNMOST DANGERS* are two sand-banks or low sandy isles, Northern
with a tree on the northernmost of them, in lat. 11° 29' N., Ion, 114° 20' E., the other <'*"b="-
to the S.VV. of it, about 2^ or 3 leagues' distance : they were seen by the South Sea
Castle in 1702; altiiough she made them only 4° East meridian distance from Pulo
Sapata, they are probably upwards of 5° from that island, as may be inferred from the
examination of this part by Captain Ross. About mid-way, nearly in a direct line be-
tween these and the north-easternmost danger mentioned above, lies a low isle in lat.
11° 1' N., surrounded with breakers, having a reef projecting to the N. Eastward, which
has been seen by several ships.
There are two isles, with reefs at each extremity, in lat. 11°27'N., Ion. 114°22'E.,
the whole extending nearly N. E. and S.W. about 7 or 8 miles.
An island, in lat. 11° 8' N., Ion. 114° 18' E., about G leagues to the southward of the
above, having a sand-bank 5 miles to the West, and a reef projecting 5 miles to the
eastward.
THE NORTH-WESTERN and WESTERN DANGERS are the following: North-western
An island in lat. 10° 44' N., Ion. 114° 26' E., with a sand-bank 5 miles to the N.W., Ztgevs!""
and several detached shoals extending about 3^ leagues to the East and E. N. E. of the
island.
A reef in lat. 10° 15' N., Ion. 113° 40' E. ; and about 5 leagues S. Eastward ^'^^°''^'y
of it. Discovery Reef, some of the rocks above water, extending from lat. 10°0'to
10° 8' N., Ion. 1]3°50'E., from which Captain Ross had a narrow escape in the Dis-
covery ; and a third reef lies about 4 leagues East from the latter.
DhauUe Shoal appears to be a new discovery made by the schooner Dhaulle, Dhauiie shoai.
in April, 182G, when proceeding from Calcutta towards China, and is thus described
in her log-book :
" At 2^ A.M., being a moon-light night, observed an uncommon appearance under the
vessel's bottom ; sounded, and had 10, 7, then 3 fathoms ; anchored immediately, and at
sun-rise the shoal appeared from the mast-head to be about 1 or 2 miles in circum-
ference, but no part visible seemed to be shoaler than where we anchored. Weighed,
and stood to the N.W., deepening quickly to 7, 18 fathoms, then no ground."
This vessel, at noon on the preceding day, passed to the westward of the West Lon-
don Reef at the distance of a mile, from thence steered N. by E. ^ E. 42 miles,
until she anchored in 3 fathoms on the shoal, which would place it in lat. 9° 35' N.,
Ion. 112° 22' E., or 42 miles West of Crawford Shoals, or the Investigator N.W.
Shoal, if the schooner had no easterly current in her run between the West London
Shoal and the foregoing dangerous bank.
The West London Reef is" in lat. 8° 55' N., Ion. 112°0'E., with other smaller reefs west London
stretching 3 leagues E. N. Eastward. Captain Ladd, of the ship Austin, in 1829, got ""i other reefs.
close to a shoal even with the water's edge, said to lie several leagues to the S.W. of
West London Reef; but the distance is rather uncertain, having lost his journal. The
Rob Roy is also said to have struck on a rock 9 or 10 leagues to the south-westward
of the West London Reef. The lat. given of this danger is 5° 44' N., and the longitude
1 1 1° 34' E. Mr. P. M. Stavers, of the ship Mermaid, describes this danger as a curved
coral island 10 or 12 feet above water, and places it in lat. 8° 37' N., lon.l 1 1° 49' E.
* The South Sea Castle made them in lat. 11°40'N. ; but these northernmost dangers, from the examina-
tion of them in 1814, hy Captain Ross, extend from lat. 11° 28 36" N., Ion. 1J4. 24' E., to lat. 11 21i'N.,
Ion. 114° 16V E. The Hainan fishermen visit the islands and shoals in this part of the China Sea in March
and April to fish, as well as those of the Paracels.
3 Q 2
484
SHOALS AND DANGERS TO THE WESTWARD OF PALAWAN.
Alexander
Rock and
Kortli Slioal.
East London
Reef.
Crawford
Shoals.
Stags Shoal.
Amboina
Sand.
Owen Shoal.
Orleana Reef.
Nearly mid-way between the London Reefs and Owen Shoal (which lies 10
leagues farther South), the Admiralty chart shews a shoal spot, in lat. 8° 35' N., Ion.
112° 4' E.
About two-thirds over to the N.W. from the Dhaulle and West London Shoals, to-
wards the Minerva Bank, are the Alexander Rock, in lat. 10° 28' N., Ion. 111°27'E.,
and the Forth Shoal, in lat. 9° 47' N., luu. 110° 18' E.
East London Reef, in lat. 8° 48' N., Ion. 112° 24' E., extends above 2 leagues in an
easterly direction ; this and the West London Reef were seen by the London in 1786,
and afterwards by several other ships ; Captains Ross and Maughan, in their exami-
nation of the above-mentioned dangers, could not discover any others farther to the
westward, although many traverses were made for this purpose, between these shoals
and Pulo Sapata.
Crawford, or Investigator N.W. Shoals, are about 6 miles in length, formed into
three patches, with a high surf beating on their S.W. part, seen by Captain Craw-
ford in the Investigator, and they consist of coral reefs, nearly even with the water's
edge. They were found to extend from lat. 9° 40' N., Ion. 1 13° 4' E., to lat. 9° 42' N.,
Ion. 1 13° 84' E., by good chronometers measured to the Great Natuna and to Sin-
gapore.
Stags Shoal, the north end, in lat. 8°24'N., Ion. 112°57'E., was seen by the brig
Amboina, Captain Trinder, September 7th, 1802, and named by him from the resem-
blance of the rocks to the horns of a stag. No soundings were obtained at 80 fathoms
within a quarter of a mile of the north end of the shoal, which extended S. E. and
S. S.W. in form of a triangle, with rocks above water, and breakers on various parts,
the intermediate space apparently very shoal, and the southern extremity could not be
discerned from the mast-head.
The shoal in lat. 7° 56' N., Ion. 111° 47' E., seen by the Abercrombie in 1836, ap
pears to be the same as the Orleana Reef, hereafter described.
Amboina Sand, seen by the Amboina brig, is a sand-bank, with rocks above water,
which she made in lat. 7° 51' N., Ion. 113° & E. ; but Captain Ross, in 1817, madethi.s
danger in lat. 7° 52' 20" N., Ion. 112° 56' E., or 5° 26' West of Long Point on Palawan,
by chronometers.
Owen Shoal, in lat. 8° 8' N., Ion. 111° 59' E., by two chronometers agreeing in
a run of 10 days from Macao, discovered May 11th, 18.35, by Captain Owen, of the
ship David Scott, on the passage from Canton River towards England, had not been
previously known. He got on the shoal, and had soundings of 6 to 4^, and once 3f
fathoms in passing over it, a little past noon, steering S. S. E., and at one p.m. cleared
the shoal, having then no bottom. This shoal appeared to be about 2 miles in extent,
consisting of black and white speckled coral, in a state of rapid accretion, apparently
by the vitality and energy of the madrepores, observed in recent formations of large
pieces of coral brought up by the lead. The patches of speckled coral were bright and
alarming while on the shoal, and although no breakers were perceived, as the sea
was then very smooth, yet, with a heavy swell, the sea probably rises in rollers over
the shoal patches, when a large ship would be liable to strike on some of them.
Captain Cameron, of the ship Orleana, in his passage down the China Sea, is said to
have observed a shoal of not less than 20 miles in extent, N.N.W. and S. S. E., about
7 or 8 leagues to the S.W. of Owen Shoal. When in lat. 7° 58' N., Ion. 1 1 1' 38° E.,
white patches were seen from the mast-head, several miles to the southw-ard.
One cast of 8 feet was obtained in smooth water, and as ripplings were seen from the
sliip. Captain Cameron thinks that there may be much shoaler water.
SHOALS AND DANGERS OFF THE N.W. COAST OF BORNEO. 485
PRINCE OF WALES BAINK was not known to have less than 10 fathoms prince «f
water on it, until the fleet under convoy of H. M. Ship Grampus got upon it, Oct. 20th, waiesBaDk.
1810 ; and by mean of the observations and chronometers of the fleet, it was found to
extend from lat. S'' 3' N. to ii" 13' JN., Ion. 1 10° 24' E. to 1 10° 34' E. The soundings
got in crossing over the bank were in general from 12 to 30 or 40 fathoms, coral, and
the Grampus had 9 and 10 fathoms for a considerable time ; but the Bombay got sud-
denly from 45 fathoms no ground to 5j fathoms upon the southern part of the bank,
then wore. The coral rocks continued visible alongside for about a quarter of an
hour afterwards, with overfalls from 5^ to 12 fathoms, but the water soon deepened to
50 and (JO fathoms no ground, in steering to the north-westward.
The reflection from the white coral appeared very conspicuous in several places, and
as the Bombay had only 5^ fathoms water on some of the rocky patches, probably there
may be less on others, consequently this bank may prove dangerous to large ships, if
they cross over it when the sea is running high ; it ought therefore to be avoided by
large ships when late in the season they may have occasion to cross over from tlie com-
mon track towards the Pala\Van Passage. Captain Ross got into 15 fathoms water on
the south part of this bank. May 8th, 1811, and made the lat. 8° 5' N., Ion. 1 10° 27' E.,
or 1° 25' E. of Pulo Sapata, by chronometers.
THE SOUTHERNMOST DANGERS of this archipelago are in about lat. southern da...
7° 20' N., extending from Ion. 113° to 115° E., and about 1(3 leagues to the northward. ^"''
Within these limits there are several large reefs with iiigh breakers ; also extensive
shoal coral flats, having only 4 or 5 fathoms, and probably less water in some parts,
with gaps of no ground between them. The principal are the following.
The Investigator Shoal, examined by the Company's surveying ship of this name investigator
in 1813, appears to be one of the N. Easternmost, and the most extensive of the last-
mentioned dangers; its western point being in lat. 8° 5' N., Ion. 114° 35' E., and its
eastern extremity in lat. 8° 10' N., Ion. 114° 51' E., and it is about 4 miles in breadth
North and South.
The Buckinghamshire Shoals, seen by Captain Shea, in the Company's ship of f^^^^"^^^^^'
this name, on his passage to Canton by the coast of Palawan, appear to be a new
discovery amongst the numerous dangers by which this part of the China Sea is
garnished.
The first shoal, seen at 5^ p.m. November 4th, 1833, appeared to consist of two
reefs of rocks with high breakers, extending 1|- miles E. by S. and W. by N., and half
a mile North and South; the centre of which was found to be in lat. 8° N., Ion.
114° 55' E., by observations of sun, moon, and stars.
The other shoal, seen at 1 1 a.m. on the following morning, appeared to consist of two
dry white banks, with a ridge of rocks extending from tliem to the westward about
2 miles, which was considered to be situated in lat. 8° 30' N., Ion. 115^ 19' E.
Swallow Shoal has some rocks, about the height of a large ship's hull, above swaiiow shoai.
water at its eastern point, which appear to be of small extent. They were seen by the
Swallow in 1801, and also by the Lady Clive; both ships agree in placing them in
lat, 7° 2.3' N., Ion. 113° 44' E.,* by good observations, although they were not seen by
these ships at the same time ; and they lie about 8^ or 9 leagues to the northward of
the Royal Charlotte Shoal.
* Captain Crawlbrd, in the surveying ship Investigator, saw these rocks in 1813, and made them in Ion.
113' 50' E.
486
SHOALS AND DANGERS OFF THE N.W. COAST OF BORNEO.
Captain Ross examined the Swallow Shoal in 1817; he made it in lat. 7° 23^ N.,
Ion. 113° 52' E., and found it to extend E. by N. and W. by S. 2^ or 3 miles, being
formed, like most of the shoals hereabout, of a belt of coral rocks, with a basin of
deeper water within it. The large dry rocks at the eastern end of the shoal are mixed
with some very white sand, and its outer edges are probably dry at low water spring
tides.
Other Shoals. Several ships pass between the Swallow Shoal and the Royal Charlotte Shoal, but
the best channel is to the southward of the latter, betwixt it and Louisa Shoal, which
should be adopted by all ships bound to Balabac Straits, and by those which intend to
proceed along the coast of Palawan.
Between the south-westernmost of the shoals mentioned above and the north part
of Borneo there are other dangerous reefs, or coral shoals, particularly within 15 leagues
of tliat coast. The following are those nearest to the track of ships bound to the
Straits of Balabac, or by the Palawan Passage, to Manila, or China.
Shoals off
Borneo.
Friendship
Shoal.
Louisa Shoal.
Royal Char-
lotte Shoal.
THE WESTERNMOST of the SHOALS that lie far off the COAST OF
BORNEO is a reef of rocks and sand, in lat. 5° 35' N., Ion. 112° 28' E., not well de-
termined : it is about half a mile long N. N.W. and S. S. E., very narrow, seen by the
Sea Horse in 1776, and by the Luconia in 1803. This ship passed between it and
anotlier reef with breakers, said to have 1^ fathoms water over the rocks, in lat.
5° 24' N., bearing from the former about S.S. E. distant 4 leagues. To the S. S.W.
of these, in lat. 5° 5' N., there is a shoal with 2 fathoms water ; and S. E. | S. from it,
in lat. 4° 57' N., there is a dry sand ; both were seen by the Luconia. About 12 leagues
to the eastward of these and the former shoals there are other shoals.
Friendship Shoal appears to extend N. E. and S.W. 3 or 3^ leagues: the ship
of this name, bound to Balambangan, in September, 1804, got suddenly on the
edge of it in 4^ fathoms, in lat. 5° 52' N., and steered along the west side, sometimes
within a cable's length, the water appearing very shoal to the south-eastward, as far
as the eye could reacii from the mast-head. Noon observation made the north end of
the shoal in lat. 6° 0' N., Ion. 112° 49' E., by observations of < taken near it. The
Sural Castle, with the Royal Charlotte in company, at 6 a.m. October 11th, 1814, got
upon this shoal, and anchored in 4J fathoms, coral rock, in lat. 5° 52' N., Ion. 112° 34'
E., by noon observation and chronometers ; but observations of stars taken at 4 a.m.
made the latitude more to the southward. It appeared a long, narrow bank, with
soundings from 30 to 40 fathoms near its verge, and there probably may be less water
on it than where the Surat Castle got suddenly into 4^ fathoms: a little to the South
west of it there is no bottom at 60 fathoms.
Louisa Shoal is in extent about 3 miles E. S. E. and W. N.W., of an ellip-
tical form ; the rocks on it are generally covered at high tide, excepting two small
ones on its eastern extreme. It is steep to, with very high breakers in blowing
weather ; but, on a fine day, the Ruby sent her boat to it, and they landed on the coral
rocks, and had 8 fathoms water within 30 yards of its western edge; the tide was then
rising, and setting over the shoal to the E. N. E., about one mile per hour.
Many ships have passed close to this shoal, and the mean of a selection of the best
observations places it in lat. 6° 20' N., Ion. 113° 18' £., by chronometers and lunar
sights. Several navigators make it about two miles more to the northward, and six
miles more to the eastward.
Royal Charlotte Shoal, in lat. 6° 56^' N., Ion. 11.3° 37^' E., or 4° 35' E. of Pulo
Sapata, by chronometers, measured by Captain Ross, who examined it in his survey
SHOALS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE PALAWAN PASSAGE. 487
of the Palawan Shoals, is about 121 or 13 leagues to the north-eastward of Louisa
Shoal, and it is not more than I'h- miles long, of a quadrangular shape, com-
posed of rocks and breakers: this shoal has been seen by several ships, and although
the mean of their observations places it about 16 or 17 miles more easterly than the
position above stated by Captain Ross, yet this officer's observations are probably
near the truth, being made with good chronometers, and instruments supplied pur-
posely for surveying.
THE SOUTH-EASTERN DANGERS, namely, those which form the Royal
Charlotte Shoal on the South to the North-east point of the bank, and which form
the western boundary of the Palawan Passage, are the following.
Viper Shoal is thought to be the south-westernmost of those which form the out- viper shoai.
side of the Palawan Passage, and it appears to be the nearest shoal on the outside of
the fair channel, after passing to the eastward of the Investigator Shoal. It is an ex-
tensive reef, stretching N. E. by E. and S.W. by W., with high breakers and small
rocks in some places, which seem to be nearly covered at high water. The ship Cape
Packet, October 27th, 1810, was swept along the southern verge of this shoal by the
current, within a mile of the rocks, when nearly calm ; and it was found to lie in
lat. 8° 0' N., Ion. 115° 25' E.,* or 1° 19' W. from the Royal Captain Shoal, by chro-
nometer.
Half- Moon Shoalj was examined March 18th, 1817, by Captain Ross, who ^^^^-^'°°"
found it formed by a narrow belt of coral rocks of oblong shape, containing a basin of
deep water in the centre, which belt appeared to have its greatest breadth at the south-
ern part of the shoal, where there was not depth sufficient for the boat to pass over it
into the basin. The Discovery, at this time, passed along the eastern edge of the
shoal at half a mile distance, and that side of it extends 4 or 5 miles in a N.W. and
S. E. direction. Sent a boat to anchor on the south point of tiie shoal as a mark, and
continued to ply about under top-sails close to her till noon, but could get no sound-
ings with 90 fathoms line, when within hail of the boat. Observations with five sex-
tants made the south point of the shoal in lat. 8° 541' N., Ion. 110'' 15^' E., or 2° Of
West from Long Point on Palawan, and 7^ 12' East of Pulo Sapata, measured by
good chronometers eight days afterward. The western side of the shoal extends about
4 or 5 miles in a North and South direction, and its eastern side forms a curve out-
wards: several black rocks about tlie south point appeared to be feet above water,
at our first approach, but at noon they were nearly covered, the tide having risen
several feet. When within a cable's length of the south-west side, in several places
no soundings could be got with 100 fathoms line.
Royal Captain Shoal was seen by the Cape Packet three days after passing Ro^ Captain
the above-mentioned shoal, which she approached within a mile on the S. E.
side, and saw many rocks above water, probably covered or even w ith the surface
of the sea at high tide. This shoal was also seen by Captain Hamilton, of the Bom-
bay, November 1st, 1810, who describes it as long and narrow, extending N. E. by N.
and S.W. by S., with high breakers on a sand-bank at tiie S.W. part, and he made it
in lat. 9° 2' 24-^ N., Ion. 1 IG" 42f' E., by chronometers ; the Cape Packet having made
♦ Captain Ross, in 1817, coulil not find this shoal in the situation assigned to it by the Cape Packet.
t Captain Ross thinks this is the Half-Moon Shoal of the Sea Horse, and that the Royal CapUiu was lost
upon it, and not upon the shoal which bears her name.
488
PALAWAN ISLAND.
Bombay Slioal.
Oilier Sboals.
.W., seen from
from East to
April, 1811,
it in Ion. 110° 44' E. When this shoal bore from N.W. i N. to W. N.
the mizen rigging, distant about 5 miles, the Island Palawan bore
E. S. E. at the same time, apparently not more than 11 leagues off.
Captain Ross, in the surveying brig Antelope, examined this shoal in
and made its centre in lat. 9° 3' 52" N., Ion. 116° 41^' E.
Bombay Shoal was seen by the Cape Packet, and at half-past 2 p.m., Octo-
ber 31st, 1810, when the body of it bore North, distant one mile, made it in lat.
9° 27' N., Ion. 116° 55' E., or 1° 30' E. from the Viper Shoal, by chronometer. Novem-
ber 2nd, 1810, the Bombay saw this shoal, which appeared to have a basin of smooth
water in the interior part, surrounded by breakers, with several rocks above water,
and some dry sand on the northern and southern extremes. Captain Hamilton made
the body of the shoal in lat. 9° 26^' N., Ion. 116° 54' E., by chronometers ; and when
visible from the mast-head, bearing N. by W. ^ W., distant about 10 miles, the high,
round mountain Pampandoyen bore S. E. ^ E., remarkable rugged land S. E. i- S.,
body of some high land to the southward S. S. E. ^ E., and the northern extreme of
Palawan E. ^ N., distant from the nearest land 10 or 11 leagues.
The Carnatic Shoal, on which the least depth given is 3^ fathoms, is in lat.
10° 6' N., Ion. 117° 26' E.
At a small distance to the northward of the Bombay Shoal there appear to be some
additional dangers, seen by the Pennsylvania and other ships, which have deviated
from the fair channel track ; all these shoals on the outside of this track are steep to,
having no soundings near them.
Palawan
Island.
Ooloogan Bay.
PALAWAN, or PARAGUA, formed mostly of high land, with several remark-
able hills, is a narrow island, but of great length in a N. E. and S.W. direction; the
S. W^ end being in lat. 8° 24' N., Ion. 117° 14' E., by the survey of Captain Ross,
and the north end in about lat. 11° 30' N., Ion. 119° 37' E. A cluster of low woody
islands stretches from its south-western extremity to the Island Balabac, with intri-
cate channels between some of them ; and the northern extreme is encircled by a chain
of small isles : both the eastern and the western coasts are also fronted by small
islands or shoals in many places, which render the navigation dangerous in the night,
for some of the shoals are live or six leagues offshore.
Ooloogan Bay, on the western coast, is formed by rugged high land on the east side
the entrance, and by several islands to the westward ; the entrance is in lat. 10° 12' N.,
and the course leading into the bay is South, in 35 fathoms water, decreasing to
22, 20, and 18 fathoms off the south point of Harbour Island, situated near the middle of
the bay, where a ship might occasionally run for shelter in blowing weather. There is
a passage on either side Three Peaked Island, which is the small island outside the
entrance of the bay.
Captain Creighton, of the ship Cordelia, visited Ooloogan Bay in 1836, and the follow-
ing are his remarks :* " Anchored under Harbour Island in 18 fatlioms, the island bear-
ing N. by W. This bay is represented in the charts as full of islands ; I could find none
but Harbour Island and two small rocky islets ; one at the bottom of the bay, and one
on the east side. Harbour Island is connected with the western shore by coral reefs.
To run into the bay, pass on either side the Three Peaked Island, and on the east side
of Harbour Island (which is about 2^ miles in length, North and South, and not more
See Naut. Mag. for 1837, p. 569 — also Capt. Creighton's sketch of the bay in vol. 1839 of the sarae work.
PALAWAN PASSAGE. 489
than 100 yards wide at any part), and anchor from half a mile to H miles from its
south end, shutting in the entrance by bringing the south end of Harbour Island on
with the east point of the bay ; but do not stand higher up, the bay being formed of a
bed of coral rocks, witli from 5 fathoms to 2 feet water on them, and the whole of the
shores of the bay are lined with coral reefs. We saw no trace of any inhabitants.
Plenty of timber, and from the mountainous shores, water may no doubt be found.
There is an inlet to the westward, just below Harbour Island, of .5 or (5 miles in length,
with 18 fathoms between the coral banks, but not more than half a cable in width
from reef to reef, and another at the top of the bay to the S.W., having the appearance
of a river. The shelter is admirable ; though blowing fresh, the water was per-
fectly smooth. In standing out of the bay with a light S. E. wind, intending to keep
near the land to have the advantage of the land breeze, found a reef running out about
4 miles in a N. N.W. direction off Ooloogan Point."
There is a high Table Hill in lat. 10° 49' N., situated on a peninsula, on each side of
which a bay is formed ; the entrance of the northern one, called Malampaya Bay, is about
9 or 10 miles to the northward of Table Hill, formed by numerous islands of various
sizes, with a round island directly off it. Although narrow, the depths are 16 to 20
fathoms in the entrance, and also among the islands inside the bay, where there is a
good shelter ; here is also anchorage in lat. 10° 33' N., amongst the northernmost of a
group of islands ; and between Malampaya Bay and the north point of Palawan,
there is a good anchorage in several places, amongst the numerous islands that
line the coast. Ragged Islands are in lat. 11° 15' N., Ion. 119° 21' E. bv chro- Ka?rged
** • Islands.
nometer.
Soundings extend from the coast in some places 7 or 8 leagues, in other parts only
3 or 4 leagues ; but the inhabitants of this island being in a savage state, it is not visited
by navigators, and seldom seen, except by those who adopt the passage to China or
Manila by the coast of Palawan, late in the season. The western coast and the shoals
fronting it, have, however, been examined by Capt. Ross, and the situation of the
most dangerous shoals correctly ascertained.
SEA HORSE BANK was examined by Capt. Ross, March 10th, 1817; being sea Horse
that day, at noon, in lat. 10° 51' N., steered 'West 8i miles till 3 p.m., when we per- """''•
ceived the water suddenly discoloured, had 10 fathoms, next cast 8 fathoms, fine white
coral sand, then anchored in 10 fathoms on the Sea Horse Bank; sent two boats to
sound, and at the same time Capt. Crawford stood to the westward in tiie Investi-
gator, to examine the bank in that direction. The boats could obtain soundings to the
northward of our station, only at a short distance, and the least depth was 8 fathoms :
to the S.W. they carried soundings about 2 miles, gradually deepening from the ship
into 28 fathoms, and afterwards no ground : to the S. E. soundings did not extend
above a (juarter of a mile from the ship. The Investigator steered W. by N. about
2 miles from the Discovery at anchor, and never had less than 10 fathoms water. At
6 P.M. weighed, and steered to the eastward in soundings of 12, 9, 10, 13, and
25 Axthoms, afterwards got no ground at 37 and 45 fathoms. The ship's station on
the bank was in Ion. 1 17° 55^' E., or 4° 23' East of Macao, and 2° 9' 42-^ West of Goat
Island ofl' Manila Bay, by two excellent chronometers. The bank was estimated to be
about 3 miles in length in an East and West direction, and not fpiite so broad.
Captain Pearson passed over this bank in November, 1833, in the Lady of the Lake,
and found less water than mentioned above, for he had 6| fathoms in one place, and
there apj)eared to be rather less on some of the neighbouring coral patches.
VOL, II. 3 R
490 PALAWAN PASSAGE.
uiieLtions for SHIPS wliich procecd by the PALAWAN PASSAGE to China must be very
t^he'shotK^r" careful when passing between the shoals ; for cloudy weather, with rain at times,
the Palawan will probably deprive them of observations in September, October, and November,
I'assage. when stroug S.W. winds and gloomy weather often prevail near the S.W. end of
Palawan. They should conform to the directions given for the passage through
the China Sea to or from Canton River, page 294. If they adopt the channel betwixt
the Louisa and Royal Charlotte Shoals, which is the best, lat. (f 40' N. is the proper
track with a fair wind ; this track leads in mid-channel ; although either shoal may
be approached with a steady breeze in the day, observing to keep nearest to that
which is on the windward side, and, with a commanding wind, it may be advisable to
get a sight of one of them, if not certain of your longitude. Having passed the Royal
Charlotte Shoal, an E. by N. course should be steered about 20 leagues; but if
the Louisa Shoal has been seen, steer E. N. E. from it about 30 leagues, then more
to the north-eastward to make the Island Balabac, and pass it at 8 or 9 leagues
distance.
The most intricate part of the passage is abreast the S.W. part of Palawan, between
the Half Moon, Royal Captain, and Bombay Shoals in the otiing, and those nearer the
coast, which are very dangerous. The outer shoals are distant about 13 or 14 leagues
iiiiiei Shoals, from the S.W. part of Palawan, and the inner shoals begin in lat. 8° 27' N., Ion.
] 17° E., abreast the S.W. end of this island ; they consist of numerous shoal patches, or
detached reefs or breakers, extending in a north-easterly direction parallel to the coast,
Paiaqiias. at the distance of from 4 to leagues. Paraquas, one of these reefs, is of circular
form, nearly 3 leagues in diameter, having gaps through it, and a patch of breakers
several miles outside : this outer patch is in lat. 9° 10' N.,* and 5 or 6 leagues off
York shore. In lat. 9° 54' N. lies another reef, called York Breakers, about G or
Breakers. q^ jg^g^gg off shorc, sccu by the York ; and most of these inner shoals have soundings
vety near to their outer edges, which will shew their proximity if the lead be kept
briskli/ going in the night ; but if soundings are got, haul off immediately, as some of
the dangerous patches are close on the edge of soundings.
Captain Ross, in the Discovery, March 12th, 1817, at noon, observed the lat.
9° 55' 24" N., then in 58 fathoms water, with the York Breakers bearing E. S. E., dis-
Long Point, taut half a mile. He made Long Point in lat. 9° 39' N., Ion, 118°21|' E., by good
chronometers.
Between the imier shoals and the coast, there is a channel with soundings, but it is
seldom used ; being rather confined by other shoals scattered along the coast, the outer
chminel is preferable. This is 8 or 9 leagues wide in the narrowest part, and when
* There appears to be another patch of breakers in lat. 9^ 6' N., Ion. 117° 21' E. to 117" 23' E., by the
journal of the Scaleby Castle, which ship, after having seen the land of Palawan, October 26th, 1827, saw
breakers at 2| p.m. 1 J miles distant, on the lee-bow ; wore and stood S. S.W. in irregular soundings, from
31 to 44 fathoms ; at 4, tacked to the N.W., then saw another reef bearing W. S.W. 3 or 4 miles. The swell
and current setting the ship to leeward, she could not clear the shoals, and the depth decreasing fast, she an-
chored in 25 fathoms, with the chain in rocky ground, the shoal first seen bearing from N.W. i W. to N.W. by
N., about 1 J miles, and the other shoal S.W. , distant about 4 miles. The situation at anchor, by observation
of four stars, was lat. 9° 4' N., by noon observations of the sun, on the 27th, lat. 9' 5' N., Ion. ll?- 21' E., by
chronometers, and 2 miles more easterly by cross bearings of the land. With the prevailing W. S.W. winds
and squally weather, there was no chance of clearing these shoals to windward, and the sea appearing clear
betwixt the N.W. breakers and the Paraquas, weighed on the following morning, keeping a good look-out, and
fortunately succeeded in obtaining a passage without meeting any new dangers, the soundings being irregular
(from 40 and 30 to 25 and 19 fathoms). The chain and anchor-stock were much rubbed, and one fluke broken
off by the rocks, by which it may be inferred, that the ship could not have rode with a hemp cable in the above
mentioned dangerous situation.
LUZON, WEST COAST.
491
and other
shoals.
past the Bombay Shoal, it is at least 12 or 14 leagues wide, betwixt the York Reef on
the inside and the shoals in the offing, seen by the Pennsylvania and other ships.
There are six and seven patches bearing on the charts the name of the Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania
all of them more or less doubtful in position.
The best track to preserve in sailing through the channel is to keep 9 or 10 leagues
oft' the S.W. part of Palawan, to give a berth to the inner shoals, which consist of
numerous dangerous patches in this place, and to keep at this distance until clear of
the narrowest part of the channel ; afterwards, if 10 or 11 leagues' distance be pre-
served from the coast, it will carry you in the fair channel, clear of the shoals. Attend
then to the directions previously given, and referred to above, for farther guidance in
proceeding along the coast of Luzon, towards Canton River. This passage, although
intricate in unfavourable weather, seems preferable to an eastern passage in October,
or early in November ; and during the whole period of the North-east Monsoon it
might be pursued occasionally by fast-sailing ships, when bound from Singapore Strait
to China. The Royal Bishop and York got sight of Balabac, November 1st, 178(j,
and reached Macao on the 30th, by this passage. The London got sight of Balabac,
October 28th, the same year, stopped eight days at Sooloo, and did not reach Macao
until January 9th, 1787, by the Eastern Passage.*
Captain Philip Maughan, coadjutor with Captain Ross during the survey of the
Palawan Shoals, lecommends ships working through the Palawan Passage to tack
the moment soundings are got on the coast bank, as very shoal water, and even
breakers, are often seen on its western edge. Excepting where shoals and rocky spots
exist, the bank was generally found to consist of soft ground ; but on account of the
former, it would be very dangerous to approach the coast in the night. In the day-
time, an officer should keep a careful look-out from the mast-head, if you resolve to
take shelter under Table Mountain Point, or Long Point, during blowing weather ;
but, if possible, it is advisable to continue working to windward. In running for the
channel oft" the S.W. end of Palawan, the safest plan seems to be, to endeavour to
reach lat. 8^ 30' N., Ion. 116° 30' E., at daylight; you will then probably pass the
narrowest and most dangerous part of the channel before the following evening, if
bound to China. Do not approach the Calamianes Islands, or Busvagon, in passing,
without great precaution, as many shoal spots are scattered about their coasts.
Additional
Directions.
WEST AND NORTH COASTS OF LUZON, OR LUCONIA,
AND THE CONTIGUOUS ISLANDS.
LUBAN, in lat. 13° 44' N. (the centre), extending .3^ leagues nearly N.W. and S.E., Luban.
is the largest island of a detached group that fronts the S.W. end of Luzon and the
N.W. end of Mindora ; it is higii in the middle, but low at each extreme. The islands
to the southward of it are high, and Amul, to the eastward of it, is a high conical
* The navigation of the Palawan Passage is farther illustrated in a preceding section of this work, entitled
" Passage through the China Sea to or from Canton River," under the article Palawan Passage.
3 K 2
492
LUZON, WEST COAST.
Minerva Kock.
Point San-
tiago.
Goat Island.
mountain. There is a passage between the.se islands and Mindora, and also a safe
channel to the eastward of them, which is frequented by the Spanish ships, when going
to or coming from the Straits of Manila. Tlie northern part of Luban is lined by a
reef, on which the Company's ship Regent was driven and wrecked, after having
struck on one of the shoals off the S.W. end of Palawan, where she lost her rudder,
October 12th, 1822; she afterwards lost a temporary rudder in a gale of wind off
Manila Bay, in proceeding there for repairs.
THE MINERVA ROCK requires care in ships approaching the S.W. point of
Luzon, called Santiago, or St. Jago, which point is situated in about lat. 1.3° 44' N.,
Ion. 120° 37' E.: this rock seems not to have been noticed by navigators, until tlie
Minerva, of Alloa, Captain J. Robertson, bound from Sydney to Manila, struck on it
at 2 A.M. September 10th, 1834, although an American ship had been wrecked on it
several years previously. It is said to be a coral rock, having 17 fathoms water near
it, and bearing from Point Santiago E. by S. ^ S., distant 4 or 5 miles.
GOAT ISLAND, in lat. 13°51'N., Ion. 120° 7' E., or 6° 35'* East of Macao by
chronometers, is the outer, or westernmost island of the Luban group, and its S. E.
point neaily joins the N.W. end of Luban ; it is a low, flat, woody island, with a reef
of foul ground projecting from its north end. From Point Calavite, on Mindora, the
west end of Goat Island bears N. 25° W., distant 9^ or 10 leagues; there is a bank
about mid-way between this island and the south point of Manila Bay, having on it
from 9 to 15 fathoms water.
Manila Hay. MANILA BAY, ott the shore of which stands Manila, the capital city of Luzon,
lies about 10 leagues to the northward of Port Santiago, and about 13 leagues to the
north-eastward of Goat Island. It has been already described at p. 478.
SubicBay. SUBIC BAY (the entrance) is in about lat. 14° 42' N., having an island in it, to
the westward of which is the safe passage into the bay ; but the passage to the east-
ward is intricate and lined by reefs. This bay stretches about 2 leagues inland, and
forms two excellent harbours, one on the east side, and the other at the northern ex-
tremity, opposite the village of Subic ; here, ships of any description may be sheltered
from all winds in 7 to 10 fathoms, mud. About 2 or 3 miles southward of Subic Bay
Minangas Bay. entrance lies the port or bay of Minangas, where small ships may anchor in 5 fathoms,
sheltered from all winds excepting those at West and W. S.W. : the course into it is
East and E. by N., about mid-channel between the points, to avoid the shoals project-
ing from them, and theie are 4 fathoms, fine sandy bottom inside, within a musket-shot
of the shore.
siiangin Bay. SILANGIN BAY, in lat. 14° 47' N., is about half a mile wide at the entrance, and
2 miles deep, having tolerable shelter from all winds, but rather exposed to the N. W.
and W. N. W. The south point is formed by a high, round, bare hill, with a reef pro-
jecting from it about a musket-shot to the northward ; this must be avoided in steer-
ing East into the entrance of the bay, where the depth is 30 fathoms, decreasing gra-
dually to the anchorage a little inside, near the beach on the south shore, which is the
best berth. There is a stream of fresh water at the bottom of the bay. About 2J miles
* Captain Ross, in 1817, made it 6° 33 J' East of Macao by good chronometers.
LUZON, WEST COAST. 493
S. S.W. of the south point of this bay there are several rocky islets, called the Three Three Friars.
Friars, with a coral reef projecting from them nearly a mile to the N. Westward ; and
between these rocks and the shore there are 40 and 42 fathoms water.
POINT CAPONES, in lat. 14° 52i' N., Ion. 120° 3^' E., or 6° 19i' East by chro- Point capo-
nometers from the Grand Ladrone, and bearing N. 3° W. from Goat Island, distant "oaJt.^''J*''""
20 or 21 leagues, is high, bare land, of reddish aspect, having two islands to the N.W.
of it, about 2 miles distant ; the outermost of these, called Great Capones Isle, is about
one mile in length East and West, and nearly a league distant from the shore. About
a mile outside of it the depth is 42 or 44 fathoms ; from 40 to 3-j fathoms are found
within a mile of the shore, betwixt this part of the coast and the north point of Subic
Bay, and generally from 4-5 to 50 fathoms about 3 or 4 miles off. From Mariveles
Point to Subic Bay the coast is in general equally steep, and may be approached
witliin 1 or 2 miles in some parts ; but it is prudent to keep 3 or 4 miles from it, be-
cause rocks or foul ground extend out about half a mile or more from some points of
land, and there are several indentations along this part of the coast, the chief of whicli
is the Bay of Bagar, in lat. 14° 38' N.
PLAYA-HONDA, about 6 or 7 leagues northward of Point Capones, is formed of piaya-honda
a small hill, projecting a little into the sea; and the fort is 2 miles farther northward f"g''eoasf'""""
amongst trees, by which it is not easily perceived. The coast between them is of
moderate height, with a level space of considerable extent northward of Point Ca-
pones; but inland, the country is formed of high double mountains, one of which has
a small sharp peak upon it. About 2 or 3 miles off the depths are 35 and 40 fathoms,
and the shore is lined by coral reefs, stretching out nearly a mile in some places;
about li miles from the beach there is a small coral bank, bearing S.W. by S. from
Playa-bonda Fort, having 2 fathoms water, and close to it 10 or 12 fathoms.
From Manila Bay entrance to lat. 15° N. the land is generally high and moun-
tainous : here it begins to decrease in height ; and near the sea to lat. 16° N. is not
much elevated. There are several deep bays in the intermediate space, some of which
are tilled with shoals, projecting beyond the points that form their entrance.
THE TWO SISTERS, called in the Spanish charts the Two Brothers, in about Two sisters,
lat. 15° 50' N., are low woody islands, with a conspicuous sandy beach, the northern isia„j|^''"
one being the larger, and distant about 2^ miles from the other. Adder Island, in
about lat. J 5° 55 N., and 4 miles northward of the North Sister, is small, with trees
on it, and a sandy beach. These islands have shoals projecting from them to S. E.
and southward, nearly to the distance of a league in some places. It is prudent to
give them a good berth in passing, for they are about 2 or 2^ leagues off shore, which
is farther out than the position generally assigned to them.*
Matsinglo Point, to the S. Eastward of the Two Sisters, is united to the southern-
most by a reef, iiaving inside to tlie eastward the bay and town of Santa Cruz, or
Matsinglo, which is frequented by the coasting vessels, and said to afford tolerable
• The ship Sir Edward Pellew, bound to China in October, 1806, ran upon tlie reef contiguous to the Two
Sisters in the ni-rht, and was got off with difficulty. Passing them about 2 or 2^ leagues oH m the Anna, we
could not, at that distjince, perceive the dangers.
A Spanish :AIS. chart places all these islands 5 or 6 miles farther South than stated above; and the same
MS. places a shoal in lat. 15= 28' N., about 2 leagues off shore, named Baxos Bagalagua, but its existence
seems very doubtful.
494
LUZON, WEST COAST.
Ciivman I'oiiit.
Taiiiliove
Koad.
shelter : the channel leading to it is on the north side of the northern isle, but narrow
and intricate, being- bounded by coral shoals, with no ground 60 fathoms a little outside
the entrance. To the southward of Matsinglo Point lies the Bay of Marinloc, fronted
by two islands ; and Pulanguiain Bay, a little farther southward, has also an island off
its south point.
CAYMAN POINT, about 4 miles northward of Adder Island, has a reef project-
ing to S. S.W. ; but the channel is safe betwixt the point and that island, having 30
fathoms water, and the point may be approached occasionally to 10 fathoms on the
tail of the reef. This channel leads to the road of Tambove, which lies to the eastward
of Point Cayman, and is open only to southerly winds : steering for the extremity of
the beach, to the eastward of the point, the depths will be 12 to 15 fathoms, coarse
sand and shells, near the termination of the beach ; the water will then deepen, but
until in soft mud it will be improper to anchor, for rocks are scattered over the bottom,
where it consists of sand. Wood and good water may be got here.
BoiinaCape BOLINA CAPE, in lat. 16° 26' N., Ion. 119° 52' E., measured by chronometers
from the Grand Ladrone, and bearing from Point Capones about N. ^ W., distant 31
or 32 leagues, is low, even land, covered with trees, and sloping gradually to the ex-
tremity, where it has a small rise and terminates in a bluff point, not discernible above
6 or 6^ leagues from the deck of a large ship. From lat. 16° N., or from Point Cay-
man nearly to this cape, the land is level, of moderate height and sterile aspect, with
a steep beach fronting the sea, and may be seen about 8 leagues. The coast in this
space is bold to approach, having no ground at 50 fathoms within a mile of it in many
places ; there are soundings near the beach in some of the small bays, where a vessel
might anchor occasionally, but there is no safe place of shelter for large ships. Point
Arenas is about 2^ or 3 leagues southward of Cape Bolina, and 2 miles to the west-
ward, being the westernmost part of the coast ; the land between it and the cape is
level, and covered with trees. Point Valinasay, or Balinasay, is about a league S.
Westward of Cape Bolina ; and Valinasay Bay, formed between them, is full of shoals.
Close to Cape Bolina there is a low islet, and the land of the cape is separated from
the main by a narrow channel, not visible in the ofling. Were it not for the shoals
fronting this channel and stretching nearly a league from the cape all round, shelter
would be found inside from all winds ; but the approach to it is dangerous, as a
vessel may get entangled by the shoals before the entrance of this intricate port is
discerned.
LingayenGuif. LINGAYEN, or PANGASINAN GULF, to the eastward of Cape Bolina, is very
extensive, formed by the low land from that cape, taking a S. Easterly direction about
4 leagues ; and then the Mongos-Mongos chain of islets and rocks, extending along it
about 5 leagues nearly S. E. by S., lines the west side of the bay. As the coast from
the cape and three islets are fronted by shoals projecting about a league, ships
ought to give the north side of the cape a good berth in the North-east Monsoon ; for
a southerly current may be liable at times to drift them into Lingayen Bay, or near the
shoals on its western side. About ^ or 2 miles inside the high islet Cavalitian, which
is the last of the Mongos-Mongos Chain, there is good anchorage in muddy bottom, at
the entrance of a small port, called Sual, into which a ship might be warped, should
circumstances render that necessary.
The Gulf of Lingayen is about 9 or 10 legaues deep, and nearly the same breadth
LUZON, WEST COAST. 495
across the entrance, from Cape Bolina to Point St. Fernando, or Balanac. Lingayen
River, a place of some trade, is situated at the bottom of the bay, into which the small
coasting vessels can pass over the bar. The rivers St. Fabian and St. Thomas are far-
ther eastward, the former directly in the S. Eastern angle of the bay. Point Napacmac,
or Namapacan, situated about 4 leagues to the northward of Point St. Fernando, forms
the western extremity of the Bay of Napacmac, which extends about 3J leagues to the
eastward of the point. Point St. Jago is about 7 leagues northward of Point Napac-
mac, and a few miles northward of it, Point Esteran forms the South extremity of the
bay of the same name.
BIGAN ROAD, in about lat. 17° 35' N., is sheltered from northerly winds by Point Higan Koaj,
Dile, which projects far out to the N. Westward, but exposed to the southward ""l^^*''''"^'^'"
and westward : the anchorage is near the shore, off the river, bearing about East,
in 10 or 12 fathoms; the bank shelves suddenly off to no soundings. About a
league inland to the E. N. E. of the road there is a chasm between two mountains,
called Abra de Bigan, or Gap of Bigan, which is very conspicuous when viewed from
the offing, and is a good mark to know this part of the coast. Between Point St. Fer-
nando and this place there are several towns along the coast, whicii is bold to
approach, there being no soundings within 2 or 3 miles off the shore : the country is
formed of high double mountains, with low woody points to seaward in some places,
and the direction of the coast is mostly North and N. by E.
SOLON-SOLON BAY, about 4 or 5 leagues northward of Bigan Road, is shel- soion-suiou
tered from all winds but those that blow between S.W. and W. N.VV. ; there are good ,fjigi,bol!rin
depths in it, and the reefs bounding the entrance, with a rocky bank in the mouth of coast.
the bay, will be seen in clear weather. The rocky bank has 1 and 2 fathoms on it,
with a passage on each side of 9 or 10 fathoms water ; but that to the northward, be-
tween it and the north point of the bay, is too contracted. The coast from Bigan Road
to this bay should not be approached under 3 or 4 miles, for the Island Pingue, or
Bantay, lies about 1^ miles off' the projecting part of the land to the South of Solon-
Solon Bay, surrounded by breakers and foul ground ; and to the northward of it the
coast is lined with coral reefs, stretching out a great way, as far as the entrance of
Solon-Solon Bay.
SALOMAGUE BAY, adjoining to the northward of Solon-Solon Bay, is sepa- saioninfriie
rated from it by a point of land encompassed with shoals: and West from this point, ^'"''
Ij and 2 miles distant, are two rocky banks, with 4 fathoms, or probably less, water on
them. This bay is more capacious, sheltered from the same winds, and deeper than
the former.
The north point is also, like the southern one, encompassed with a reef, wliich
stretches to the eastward along the northern side of the bay ; and an island of mode-
rate height is situated about three-quarters of a mile from the point, with a reef pro-
jecting off" it about a cable's length to the S. Westward. This place may be known
from the offing, by a chasm or gap in some high mountains, wiiicli overtop the rest of Directions to
the chain on this coast : it resembles the Gap of Bigan, but it is not so large, nor does *""'""-
it approach so near the sea as that gap ; it may also be seen bearing about S. E.,
when a ship is 4 leagues West of Salomague Bay. When the Gap of Salomague
bears about E. \ S., an East course will carry a ship direct towards the island at the
north point of the bay, which should be approached in a large ship bearing about East ;
496
LUZON, WEST COAST.
Cape Baja-
(lorc ; roiist
from Salo-
niasriie.
Point Cavnai-
an, and the
coast to Port
liangiii.
Point C'ara-
vallos, and the
adjacent coast.
and the reef off its S.W. point ought to be passed close in 25 or 30 fathoms, mud, to
avoid tlie rocky banks that lie to the westward of the south point of the baj' ; she may
then steer right in the middle of the bay, rather inclining towards the nortiiern shore,
and anchor in 8 fathoms. Farther in there is a shoal spot, which will be perceived in
clear weather by the discoloured water on it : the best berth to moor is in or
7 fathoms, mud, opposite some rice magazines on the north shore.
CAPE BAJADORE, or BOXEADOR, in about lat. 18° 32' N., Ion. 120° 39' E.,
by chronometers and lunar observations, is a low point of land, with a reef of breakers
projecting about 1^ miles, and it forms the N. W. extremity of Luzon. From Salo-
mague Bay to this cape, the direction of the coast varies between North and
N. N. E., to N. N.W. near the cape, by which a bight is formed to the southward
of it, said to have anchorage near the shore ; in some parts it is low and woody to sea-
ward.
The chain of high mountains inland, which commences near St. Fabian in the Bay
of Lingayen, extends parallel to the coast, gradually diminishing in height, and
stretching more inland about 8 leagues to the southward of Cape Bajadore, leaves a
spacious plain fronting the sea. Another chain of hills begins about 2| leagues from
the shore, which stretches northward parallel to the coast line.
About 2^ leagues northward of Salomague, at a place called Badoc, or Lugue,
Sinay Isle lies, about half a mile off a point of land, surrounded by a reef; and the coast
between these places is rocky, with breakers projecting from it about a mile.
Ilara Hummock stands near the sea, about 7 leagues southward of Cape Bajadore ;
being of middling height, with patches of trees on it, and there being no other of
similar appearance, it is a good mark in sailing along the coast. Soundings are got
about a league off shore from Salomague to Ilara Hummock, but from 1 or 2 leagues
beyond the latter to Cape Bajadore, none are obtained at the distance of 2 miles from
the shore ; and the whole of this part of the coast is destitute of shelter for ships, and
has rocky patches stretching out above a mile in some places.
From Cape Bajadore, the coast takes a N. E. and E. N. E. direction to Bangui Point,
in about lat. 18° 39' N., and distant from the former about 5 leagues.
POINT CAVNAIAN, or Punta Alto de Bangui, in about lat. 18° 40' N., has a
reef projecting about a mile out, and is the northernmost land of Luzon, distant about
7 leagues N. Eastward of Cape Bajadore; the coast between them, at one part, forms
a considerable bay, with some rocky islets near the shore : and there is anchorage in
the bottom of the bay, adjoining the small port of Bangui. The entrance of this port is
between two points, with reefs projecting from them, and the course into it is S.E. ; the
depths wei'e formerly 7 and 8 fathoms in it, decreasing gradually to 4 fathoms within a
cable's length of the beach inside; but it is said that this port has been long shut up by
an earthquake.
POINT CARAVALLOS is a bluff, steep point of white cliffs, bearing about E. by S.
3^ or 4 leagues from Point Cavnaian, having a mass of high mountains contiguous,
which go by the same name. Close to the point there is an islet, and others lie near
the shore, about ^ or 2 miles to the eastward. About 4 leagues eastward from Point
Caravallos there is a round hill, of middling height, called Pata Point, or Cabicunga,
and the whole of the coast from Cape Bajadore to this place is steep, without any sound-
ings until near the shore.
LUZON, NORTH COAST.
497
Coast of
Cagayaii.
The land is of middling height, and in some parts rather low close to the sea, with
several rivers ; but the country inland is high and mountainous.
COAST OF CAGAYAN, from Point Patato Cape Engano, forms a regular con-
cavity, with a chain of mountains inland, and a considerable space of moderately
elevated, or rather low land fronting the sea, which is interspersed with villages and
intersected by rivers in several places. There is a continued beach along this coast,
with regular soundings in general, 30 or 40 fathoms about 1| or 2 miles off on the
western part, and the same depths extend 3 or 4 miles off shore when farther to the
eastward. The only danger known is a sand-bank, on which the sea breaks in blow-
ing weather; this bank is about 2 miles N. by £. from the bar of Abula River, and
fronting the point to the westward of the river, the west end of it bearing about South
from the middle of the Island Fuga ; it extends E. S. E. and W. N.W. about 2 miles,
and about a mile outside of it there are from 35 to 40 fathoms water, over fine black
sand.
The entrance of the Great River Tajo, about 4| leagues eastward of Abula River,
has good anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms, about 2 miles N. N. E. from its mouth. The
point on the S. E. side is known by the church and convent of the town of Aparri
built on it; opposite to which, or North from the church, is the best anchorage, with
the Volcanic Mountain on Camiguin bearing N. N. E. Easterly. The river is about
one-third of a mile wide at the entrance, with 2 and 2| fathoms on the bar, deepening
to 5 and G fathoms, mud, inside. The coast to the eastward of this river is flat, w ith
soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms, black sand, about 2 leagues offshore.
PORT SAN VIZENTE, about 8 or 9 leagues E. N. E. of Aparri, is formed by the Fort \-izcnte.
small island of the same name, situated betwixt the N. E. end of Luzon and its
adjacent island, called Palaubi, or the Island of Cape Engano. There is room in this
port for three or four ships, sheltered from all winds ; but the entrance is narrow and
intricate, being formed between shoals on each side, which project from the S.W. part
of Palaubi, and from the Island Vizente ; a ship, therefore, is obliged to warp in.
There is good anchorage in 5 fathoms opposite the mouth of the port, and sheltered Anchorage.
from all winds but those that blow between West and S.W. There is also anchorage
along the coast, betwixt Aparri Road and tliis place, in 15 or 20 fathoms within 2 miles
of the shore ; the soundings are pretty regular, excepting a hole in the bank about
3 or 3^ leagues to the S. Westward of Vizente, with 70 and 80 fathoms water about
2^ miles offshore, having close to the edge of it 30 fathoms, black sand.
CAPE ENGANO,* in lat. 18°39'N., Ion. 122° 16' E., by chronometers, from the Cape i:..gano.
Grand Ladrone, and by observations taken in 1802, forms the N. E. point of the Island
Palaubi, and it is moderately elevated ; the south point of the same island is a round
hill, rather higher, and forms the east point of Port San Vizente. From the point
that forms Cape Engano, a coral reef with high breakers, and several rocks above
water, projects E. N. E. about 3 miles, and patches of shoal water stretch about a
mile beyond it.
Tiiis leef fronts the eastern side of the island, at the same distance ; extending south-
ward about 4 miles, until abreast the round hill that forms its south point, and joins to
the N. E. end of Luzon.
• This name is sometimes applied to the N. Eastern extremity of the main land of Luzon, about 3 leagues
farther to the S. Eastward, which is called Point Mauva by the natives.
VOL. II. 3 s
498 BABUYAN ISLANDS,
Close to the northward of Cape Engano there are two islets, the outermost of which,
called Lava, or Cape Islet, is a square steep mass of lava, about half a mile in extent,
and may be seen 8 or 10 leagues.
This is the northernmost land of Cape Engano, and the channel between it and Ca-
miguin is nearly 7 leagues wide, and clear of danger. As the currents set strong to the
northward here, in the southerly monsoon, a ship proceeding from the coast to the east-
ward may pass within a mile or less of the north side of Lava Islet, and then steer
E. N. E., which will carry her about a mile clear of the north end of the Cape Reef. It
is proper, with light winds, to keep on this side the channel, to prevent being drifted
to the northward by the currents near the Guinapac, or Didica Rocks.
ISLANDS AND CHANNELS BETWEEN LUZON AND
FORMOSA; WITH BRIEF DIRECTIONS FOR PASSING
THROUGH THE CHANNELS TOWARDS NEW SOUTH
WALES.
&
Babuyan THE BABUYAN, or FIVE ISLANDS, form a kind of circular chain, fronting
Islands. the coast of Cagayan at a considerable distance ; the channels between these islands
are safe, without soundings, and their coasts are generally steep to.
Lanurip. Lapurip, or Dalupiri, the westernmost of these islands, in lat. 19° 15' N., Ion.
121° 34' E., is distant about 12 leagues N. Eastward of Point Cavnaian ; it has a level
appearance, extending about N.W. and S. E. 2 or 2| leagues, and may be seen from
10 to 11 leagues' distance. About 1^ miles off the south point lies Rijutan Islet, with
shoals projecting from it a considerable way to the southwarc} ; but the water is deep
in the narrow channel, betwixt the islet and the south end of Lapurip. It is said
refreshments may be procured at this island.
Fuga. Fuga, or New Babuyan, in lat. 19° 1' N., distant about 4 leagues S. Eastward from
Lapurip, is lower, and of an even appearance ; it extends East and West upwards of
2 leagues, and is nearly half that breadth, terminating in low land at the eastern part.
There are irregular soundings along the S.W. side of the island, where a ship may
Portofjiusa. auchor occasionally, and the port of Musa is formed betwixt the west end and two
small islands adjacent, called Barrete and Mabag. The best channel is from the
southward, between Barrete and the west point of Fuga, the depths being 14 and 10
fathoms outside, and from 9 to 12 fathoms in mid-channel.
The west channel betwixt the two islands is narrow, with soundings from 6 to 10
fathoms. The north channel is rendered more intricate, by a reef stretching half-way
over from the N. E. point of Mabag towards Fuga, and the tail of this reef joining to
the IN .W. point of Fuga is a bed of rocks, with 5 and fathoms water on it : this passage
ought, therefore, not to be attempted unless in a case of necessity, and a vessel, to enter
by it, must borrow pretty close to Fuga. Barrete Island has a reef to the westward and
another projecting from its south point ; water may be procured, but with difficulty,
• BABUYAX ISLANDS. 499
some distance inland. In 1764, many wild cattle, horses, and plenty of guavoes, were
found here.
The port of Musa, in lat. 19° 2' N., is only fit to run into in a case of necessity ;
although sheltered from the sea, the bottom everywiiere being coral rock, mixed in
some places with a little coarse sand or gravel, a ship is liable to have her anchor
broken by the rocks. The depths are from 17 to 12 fathoms in the middle, shoaling
to 4 or 5 fathoms near the coral reefs that line the shores on either side, and the breadth
of the port is not above three-quarters of a mile. The best anchorage is nearest the
N. E. side of Barrete, in 14 or 15 fathoms, where the bottom is rotten coral and
coarse sand ; near Fuga it is all very rocky.
The tide rises about 5 or 6 feet, but is very irregular in time and direction. The Tides.
London took shelter here, Nov. 3rd, 1764, and repaired in part the damages she had
sustained four days previously in a Ty-foong, close to the eastward of Monmouth
Island, in which she was obliged to cut away her mizen-mast, top-masts, and best
bower anchor.
Calayan, in lat. 19° 28' N., about 5 or 6 leagues N. Eastward of Lapurip, and Caiayan.
8 leagues IN. by E. from Fuga, is formed of mountainous and uneven land, highest in
the centre, with low gaps in some places. It extends nearly S. E. and IV.W. from
2 to 3 leagues, is steep to, without any safe anchorage, and may be seen about
15 leagues: contiguous to its south part there are some rocks above water, which
stretch out more than a mile; and about H miles off the N. E. point there is an islet
about a mile in extent Nortli and South, called Panuctan.
Wyllie Rocks were discovered by Capt. Wyllie, in the ship Dona Carmalita, WyiiieUocks.
August nth, 1825, on his voyage from Calcutta towards the west coast of Mexico,
and might prove dangerous to sliips passing through amongst the Babuyan Islands in
the niglit. These rocks consists of two clusters above water, with high breakers
between them, the southernmost rock, which is the largest, bearing N. IN. E., distant
4 or 5 miles from Panuctan, and the other cluster is about i^ miles in a N. IN. E.
direction from the southernmost or largest rock. In passing Lapurip Island, had an
observation, which made it several miles more to the northward than its place in the
India Directory.
Claro Babuyan, or Old Babuyan, in lat. 19° 37' N., about Ion. 121° 54' E., distant ciaro
about 10 leagues eastward of Calayan, is the most northerly and highest of these b*''">'»"-
islands, in extent about 2 or 2j leagues. A reef projects from the west end of the
island, on which part there is a volcano ; betwixt the volcano and the mountains on
the eastern part there is a concave curve in the form of a crescent, when viewed from
the northward or southward ; but when the island is seen at a great distance from
the eastward, it appears as one round mountain, with a detached hummock to the
northward. The south point is steep and rocky, with a black rocky islet about a mile
off, in form of a sugar-loaf.
Camiguin, in lat. 19° 4' N., bearing about S. by W. from Claro Babuyan, distant camiguin.
8 or 9 leagues, is a high hilly island, about 2^ or 3 leagues in extent from N. IN. E. to
S.S.W. The shore is lined with coral rocks in some places, having soundings of
30 to 35 fathoms aboyt a mile off; and the land is low close to the sea, along the eastern
and northern sides of the island. The southern part is formetl of a high mountain,
visible at 20 leagues' distance, which was formerly a volcano. To tlie w estward of this
mountain some steep white cliffs front the sea, about 2 miles to the southward of the
south point of Port San Pio Quinto. Tliis port is situated a little to tlie southward of pori san Pio
the middle of the island on the west side, formed bv a concavity in the land, about Q>""'°
3 s 2
500
BABUYAN AND BASHEE ISLANDS.
Tides
Guinapac
Rocks.
Didicas
Rocks.
3 miles wide and 1^ miles in depth, sheltered from the sea by the Island San Pio
Qiiinto, which lies in the middle of the entrance. This island is high, about 1^ miles
in circumference, steep to seaward, and has on each side a safe channel leading to the
port. The south channel is 1^ miles wide, with 40 fathoms in the entrance, decreas-
ing gradually inside ; it is formed between the Island Pio Quinto and the south point
of the port, which with an islet near it has the colour of iron, and a little to the south-
ward there is a boiling spring of salt water.
The north channel, formed betwixt the island and north point of the port, is about
a mile wide, with soundings fronting it of 28 and 30 fathoms, and 17 or 18 fathoms
inside; but there is a patch, with only and 8 fathoms rocky bottom, rather nearer
the island than mid-channel. A coral reef projects about a quarter of a mile from the
north point of the entrance ; the bottom in the channels and in the port is mostly soft
sand, with a little coral in some places, and the soundings decrease gradually to the
shore around. The best anchorage is in 15 or 16 fathoms, to the eastward of the
Island of San Pio Quinto, opposite a rivulet of fresh water, which bears E. N. E. from
that island. The tide rises about 6 feet, and flows to 6 hours on full and change of
moon. This may be considered the only place amongst these islands which is iole-
rahly safe for a large ship; for the cables are not so liable to be injured as in Port
Musa, in Fuga Island.
Guinapac Rocks, bearing E. by S. from the north point of Camiguin, distant 9 or
10 miles, consist of two rocks, like towers, one larger than the other, with some smaller
rocks contiguous. There are no soundings within musket-shot of them on the out-
side ; and between them and the nearest part of Camiguin there is a channel 2 leagues
wide, which is clear on the island side.
Didicas Rocks, bearing N. E. ^ E. from Guinapac Rocks 7 or 8 miles, and distant
A^ or 5 leagues from the north point of Camiguin, are about 2 miles in extent N. E.
and S.W. ; they consist of four sharp-pointed rocks, much higher than the former, and
when seen at a considerable distance appear like ships under sail. There are amongst
them many rocks of various sizes, which render the approach to them dangerous in
light winds ; for the currents run strong to the northward, producing ripplings like
breakers in the vicinity of and among these dangerous rocks, and there are no
soundings near them where a ship could anchor in a case of necessity.
Bashee
Islands.
Balintang
Isles, and the
(•ontiguous
channels.
THE BASHEE ISLANDS* consist of a chain of islands mostly high, situated
to the northward of the Babuyan Islands, and extending from lat. 19° 58' N. to
lat. 21° 13' N. ; the channels among them are thought to be safe, free from hidden
dangers.
Balintang, or Richmond Isles, in lat. 19° 58' N., Ion. 122° 14' E., by chronometers,
are the southernmost of those called Bashees, and lie nearly mid-way betwixt Claro
Babuyan and the nearest Bashee Islands to the northward, called Monmouth Group.
They consist of three small but high peaked islets or rocks, discernible about
9 leagues off, and are in one bearing E. by S. The westernmost is much larger than
the others, and a hole is seen through it when bearing N. E. : they are steep to, and may
be passed on either side at 2 or 3 miles' distance ; but the sea beats furiously against
them in blowing weather. They bear S. ^ E. from the high mount on the north end
of Batan Island, and about N. N. E. from Claro Babuyan ; the channel between them
and the latter is about 6 leagues wide, and the other to the northward about 5 or
* Bashee, Balintang, Batan, Sabtang, and Bayat, are native names.
BASHEE ISLANDS.
501
5^ leagues wide. These channels are wider than any of the other passages among the
Bashee Islands, and may be distinguished as the Great Passage, or Balinting Chan-
nel ; it was frequently used by the Company's ships when they proceeded by the
Eastern Passage to China.
Batan, or Monmouth Island, extends from lat. 20° 17J' N., in a N. N. E. direction, Hatan island.
about 3 leagues, the high mount on its northern extremity being in lat. 20° 23|' N.,
Ion. 122° 1 1'E.,* by mean of a series of observations by moon and chronometers, taken
in different ships. The rest of the island is of considerable height, and near the south
end there is a small knob, called Pyramid Peak. There are several villages on this
island, and anchorage on the east side; here Dampier anchored in 15 fathoms water,
where he remained from the 6th of August to the 25th of September, 1C87, and pro-
cured a large supply of hogs, goats, and sweet potatoes. There is also anchorage at
Ivanna Bay, on the west side of the island, upon a bottom of white sand in 5^ to
8 fathoms, within rather less than a quarter of a mile of the village bearing E. by S. or
E. by S. ^ S. ; farther out the bottom is rocky, with small patches of white sand. The
south end of the island has a reef of breakers projecting from it to a considerable
distance. There are strong ripplings at times in the channels among those islands,
with irregular tides ; but the water does not rise above 4 or 5 feet at full and cliange
of moon. The Revolutionnaire frigate touched twice at this island, found good
anchorage, and all sorts of provisions very cheap, the price of a bullock being from one
to four dollars.
Sabtang (called Monmouth Island by Dampier) is of middling height, about 3^ or sabtang.
4 miles in length North and South, separated from the S.W. point of Batan by a nar-
row gut, which is said to afford a passage. Bashee Island is small, and rather low, Bashee.
excepting a hill on the soutiiern extremity, where there is a village: it is separated
from the west side of Sabtang by a channel about ] or 1^ miles wide, in the southern
part of which there are soundings from 20 to 12 fathoms, and 6 or 7 fathoms close to
the shores on each side, the bottom mostly coral rock. The ship St. Jean Baptiste
anchored here in 14 fathoms water, under the east side of Bashee Island, in August,
1769, and procured fresh water at a small rivulet inside the S.W. point of Sabtang.
This is the only safe landing place, the shores of both islands being fortified by a reef;
through some of the gaps in it, the boats of the natives can pass in fine weatlier. There
are several pools of fresli water on these islands, and plantations of sugar-cane, Indian
corn, and fruits of various kinds. Goat Island, about H miles W. N.W. of Bashee Goat isianj.
Island, is also small and rather low, with some cultivated spots. The South ends of
these three islands lie on a transit bearing N.W, by W. and S. E. by E. from each
other; and with the large Island Batan, they form the Batan or Monmoiitli Group.
These islands are well inhabited, and abound with bullocks, goats, pigs, fowls, &c.,
and on their western sides anchorage may generally be found near the shore.
Grafton Island, or High Round Island, in lat. 20°34|'N., Ion. 122° 4' E., bearing Grafton
N. by W. \ W. from the north part of Batan Island about A leagues, is small and steep '^^^''^'^■
to; the channel betwixt it and the latter is safe, through which the True Briton,
Captain Clarke, passed in the night, June 14th, 1802; and the Vansittart, Capt.
Dalrymple, passed through it in 1821.
Bayat, or Orange Island, about 2 leagues N.W. of Grafton Island, is between 2 or nayat, and
3 leagues in extent North and South, of an even appearance, without any considerable "'''" i''*"*''-
• Baron Wrangel (celebrated by Iiis explorations of the Siberian coasts and islands, chiefly by travelling on
the ice), in passing IJat.an in H. I. M. ship Krotky, 1827, made the high mount 1^ 11' 55" East of Cavite, in
Manila Bay, or in Ion. 122^ 8' E.
502 NORTH BASHEE AND BOTEL TOBAGO ISLANDS. '
hills, may be seen 13 leagues, and it is said to have anchorage near to its western side,
where refreshments may be procured. Between Bayat and the North Bashee Islands
there are two or three small islands, the positions of which are not so well ascertained
as the others; but they all lie near tlie same meridian, forming a chain between the
other islands, and there is thought to be no invisible danger near them. The channel
betwixt these and the North Islands is 7 miles wide, and perfectly clear; the Arnis-
ton passed through it in 1797, and the Valentine in 1764.
North Bashees. THE NORTH BASHEES consist of one high island, in lat. 21° 3i' N., and two
small but high islets N. N. E. of the former : the two latter are not visible so far as the
other island, which may be discerned 13 leagues off, and they appear with round con-
vex summits in some bearings, but the southernmost generally makes in the form of a
peak. Between the two north islets and the other high one to the S. S.W. there is a
channel, about 3|; miles in breadth, through which the Royal Admiral passed, October
]3tb, 1801. The North Bashee Island is in lat. 21° 9' N., Ion. 122° O'E., measured
from Macao by chronometers, by Captain Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor.
Some navigators make it 7 or 8 miles farther to the eastward.
Winds and Ty-foongs, or tempests, are likely to happen in both monsoons, among the islands
weather. between Luzon and Formosa ; and in general the weather is very unsettled in this
part, with frequent strong gales. Shocks from earthquakes have at times been felt
here, and also in ships near to both the East and West sides of Luzon.
Botei Tobago BOTEL TOBAGO XIMA (the centre), in lat. 21° 59' N., Ion. 121° 38' E.,* by the
""^' observations of Captain Ross, bears from North Bashee Island N. N.W., distant 55 miles
by the transit bearing, taken when both were in sight, the latter then bearing S. S. E.,
and the former N. N.VV. It is a high island, 3 or 4 miles in extent, appearing in the
form of a saddle, or with a gap in it when viewed from S.S.W. or N. N. Eastward,
and may be seen 16 or 17 leagues from the mast-head. The high part of the island is
crowned with trees, and it is well inhabited, having several large villages on the
southern part.
Little Botei. LITTLE BOTEL TOBAGO XIMA, in lat. 21° 56^' N., is a small island of con-
siderable height, with some bushes on it, about 2 or 2^ miles distant to the S. East-
ward of the southern part of the Great Island of this name ; a reef projects irom its
south end about a cable's length or more, which is steep to, there being no soundings
near these islands.
GaddRock. GADD ROCK, or CUMBRIAN REEF, distant U or 5 leagues South of Little
Botei Tobago Xima, and lying in the fair channel betwixt tliat island and the North
Bashees, appears to have been first seen by Captain Gadd, in the Swedish ship Oster-
Gothland, January 12th, 1800, who thought it to be the Vele Rete Rocks. High
breakers were seen on it, extending nearly East and West about a league, and several
rocks appeared with their heads above water among the breakers ; when in one with
the east end of Botei Tobago Xima, the reef bore N. ^ W., the body of Little Botei
then N. i E., and Captain Gadd made it in lat. 21° 45' N. This reef was seen in 1808,
by Capt. Purefoy, of the Charlotte ; and by Captain Tate, of the Cumbrian, July 26th,
* La Perouse made its S. E. point in lat. 21° 57' N., Ion. 12P 52' E., and I made it in Ion. 121° 48' E. by
chronometers measured from lunar observations; but Captain Ross made the east point in Ion. 121^39|^'or
121° 40' E., and the North Bashee in Ion. 122° 0' E., as stated above, which is probably nearest the truth.
account.
VELE KETE ROCKS. 503
1809, when working out between the islands with a light easterly wind. This danger
was also seen very distinctly by Captain Johnson, of H. M. Ship Cornwallis, as will
appear by the following extract from the journal of Captain W. H. Smyth.*
" January 6th, 1808, being under double-reefed top-sails, going about 8 knots, at Extract from
lOh. 50ra. A.M., saw the Island Botel Tobago Xima bearing N. N.W., distant 8 or j;ji,raai.'"^" *
9 leagues. At llh. 50m. suddenly observed the water to break ahead, and soon after
perceived rocks, on which we bore up, and passed to leeward of them, keeping them
pretty close aboard. At noon the breakers on the rocks bore N. 47° E., distant H
miles, observed lat. 21° 41' N., which makes this reef in lat. 21° 42^' N., and bearing
South from Little Botel Tobago Xima."
The situation of this very dangerous rock has been correctly ascertained by Captain capt. koss-s
Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, who examined it June 9th, 1817. When on
with the highest part of Little Botel Tobago Xima, it bore N. 2° W. by compass, and
he found it to be about 100 yards in length ; the boat had 2 fathoms water about the
middle of the rock, which probably might have been near the time of high water, as
Captain Gadd perceived some points of rocks amongst the breakers when he dis-
covered this danger ; for there is a considerable rise and fall of tide hereabout on the
springs at times, affording sufficient cause to think that some parts of the rock must be
level with the surface of the sea, or visible above the hollow of the waves at low water,
when there is much swell.
By the observations of Captain Ross, Gadd Rock is in lat. 21° 4.3' N., Ion. 121° 41' Position.
E., differing only half a mile in latitude from its position as stated above by Captain
Smyth, and only 2 miles from the latitude assigned to it by Captain Gadd.
To avoid this danger, ships should borrow towards the North Bashee Islands, which
is the widest channel, or keep near to Botel Tobago Xima, and take particular care to
avoid the mid-channel track. The variation in this channel, in 1808, was 0° 18' variation.
Easterly.
VELE RETE ROCKS, or REEFS, in lat. 21° 42' N., Ion. 120° 52' E., or 7° 19|-' ve'^jtete
East from Macao by chronometers, measured by Captain Ross, is distant about 1(5
leagues to the westward of Gadd Rock, and bears about S. ^ W. from the low S. E.
point of Formosa, distant i\ leagues. This is a mass of rocks, several of them a little
detached from each other, and even with the surface ; some of them are above water,
and may be seen 9 or 10 mfles. The channel is safe betwixt this danger and the
south end of Formosa, and about 4 leagues wide ; but very turbulent ripplings are often
experienced in this and the neighbouring channels, which Captain Ross observed to
extend in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and running so high that the breakers re-
sembled the sea beating furiously over a dangerous shoal. They were whirled round
in these ripplings in the Discovery, and although previously sailing witli a fresii
breeze, were almost becalmed on entering into the ripplings.
Ships passing to the southward of these dangers in thick weather, or in the night,
should keep well towards the North Bashee Islands, making allowance for a northerly
current, which is generally experienced in light winds and during the S. W. Mon-
soon. From lat. 21° 15' N. to 21° 20' N. is a good track to preserve, when passing
* Then a lieutenant in the Cornwallis, an ofTiccr of frreat ability in scientific pursuits, afterwards employed
by the Lords t'onimissioners of the Admiralty on important surveys in tiie i\Ieditc>rranean .Sea, and of the har-
bour of Syracuse, which have been elegantly .and accurately executed. He received the honour of knighthood
from the king of Sicily, for the valuable services rendered to that monarch, whilst in the active performance of
his professional duties for the benefit of navigation.
Rocks.
504
FORMOSA AND PEHOE ISLANDS.
Island to the
northward of
Botel Tobago
Xima.
between the Bashee Islands and Gadd Rock, in thick weather. Several ships, during
light winds, have been drifted by the current between Formosa and Botel Tobago
Xima; The Glatton and Canton were drifted close to a small island, in lat. 22°39'N.,
which is surrounded by breakers, projecting out to the N. Eastward a considerable
way; this island is 14 leagues to the
9 leagues distant from the east coast of Formosa.
northward of Botel Tobago Xima, and 8 or
FORMOSA AND THE PEHOE ISLANDS, WITH A BRIEF
NOTICE OF THE LIEU-CHEW, THE JAPAN, AND
OTHER ISLANDS TO THE NORTH-EASTWARD.
Formosa
Island.
South Capp.
Lamay Island.
Formosa
Western coast.
FORMOSA, or PAKAN ISLAND, called also Ty-oan, is about 70 leagues in
length, extending nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W.; the land is generally high in the
interior, but low in some places to seaward, with soundings near the shore, particularly
on the western side. The southern part has on it a high double-peaked mountain,
discernible at 20 leagues' distance in clear weather, from which the land slopes down,
terminating in a low projecting point, called the South Cape of Formosa. This point
is in lat. 21° .54' N., Ion. 120° -55' E., by lunar observations and chronometers; bearing
about W. ^ S. from the west end of Botel Tobago Xima, distant 13 leagues.
A reef is thought to project from it, for Captain Maxwell, in H.M.Ship Alceste,
when passing between Botel Tobago Xima and Formosa, saw very high breakers,
which he thought were upon a reef of sunken rocks, projecting to a considerable dis-
tance from the low South Cape of Formosa; the noise of the breakers was distinctly
heard at the distance of 4 miles.
To the N. Eastward of the point there is a village and a harbour for small vessels ;
and there are, it is said, soundings near the coast on the west side of the point.
Lamay Island, about 13 leagues N.W. from the South Cape, and about 3 leagues
from the coast, is in lat. 22° 19^' N., Ion. 120° 27' E., or 6° 55' East from Macao, twice
measured by four good chronometers, and in Ion. 120°28^'E. by lunar observations,
according to Captain Ross, who examined this island in the Discovery. It may be
seen about (5 leagues from the deck, having high yellow cliffs to the westward and a
small sandy beach to the eastward ; it is about 2^ miles in length, and is inhabited by
a few fishermen. To the westward no ground was got with 70 fathoms line, but about
3 miles to the eastward of the island a bank of soft mud commences, which extends
off Formosa, having soundings on it from 15 to 26 fathoms. In
steering
from the
S.W. point of Formosa, along the west coast, the Discovery had no soundings off the
S.W. point until within about half a mile of the shore, then had 120 fathoms; and
with Lamay Island bearing about W. N. W., got 30 and 40 fathoms on the mud-bank
when about \^ miles off P'onnosa, and passed between the island and the coast. At
anchor in 15 fathoms, very soft holding ground, about 3 miles off the town of Pong-
lieu, bearing N. 59° E., Lamav Island bore from S. 86° W. to N. 82° W., the N.W.
FORMOSA ISLAND. 505
extreme of the coast, a small black hummock, N. 41° W., southern extreme of the
coast S. 22° E. Pong-lieu town is very populous, and governed by a Chinese Man-
darin ; there is a good bazaar, and the inhabitants came off to the Discovery in cata-
marans, bringing refreshments for sale. From this place she worked to the westward,
and anciiored in 15 fathoms about 3 miles off the coast of Formosa, and 5 or 6 miles
from Lamay Island, with the black hummock bearing N. 7° W., brow of Western
Hill N. 26° W., a town near whicii there is a river or inlet and many boats at anchor
bore N. 58° E., distant 3 or 4 miles, Lamay Island from S. 14° W. to S. 3° E., the
S. E. extreme of the coast S. 35° E, In working across, as Lamay Island was ap-
proached, tiie soundings increased from 35 fathoms into very deep water, having
52 fathoms about a mile off Lamay, from the S.E. and eastern parts of which a reef
projects to a small distance. From this last anchorage the Discovery steered about
4 miles to the westward, then got off the bank of soundings.
Ty-wan, or Ty-oan, in about lat. 23° 10' N., Ion. 120° 10' E., formerly the Dutch Ty.«an.
settlement of Fort Zealand, has a table hill inland to the E.S. Eastward : this har-
bour will not admit vessels which draw above 7 or 8 feet water; the other inlets along
the west coasts are also fronted by shoals ; and from the entrance of the River Pon-
kan, in about lat. 23° 45' N., sand-banks project 3 or 4 leagues into the offing,
Hawan, or Lookaun Road, by the observations of Captain Rees, who visited Lookaun
this place lately, in one of the opium traders, is in lat. 23° 57' N., Ion. 120° 15' E., '^°^-
measured by chronometers, in a run of two days from Ta-tuy Island off Cliin-chew
Bay, allowing the latter to be in 118° 43|^' E., as measured from Lintin Island,
Canton River, in a run from thence of four days. Europeans have little intercourse
with this island at present, excepting the vessels with opium from Bengal and Canton
River.
The northern extremity of Formosa is in lat. 25° 18' N., Ion. 121° 34' E., the N.W. Northern parts,
point in lat. 25° 11' N., Ion. 121° & E., the N. E. point in lat. 25° 11' N., Ion. 121° 56' E., i^"'^ adjacent.
by chronometers. There is a group of three isles off the N. E. point, with a safe chan-
nel, about 3i or 4 leagues wide, betwixt them and the point.
Killon Harbour, or Kelang Taw,* situated in the middle of the bight, between the KiiionHar.
north and N. E. points of Formosa, appears to have been little known to European '^°'"'-
navigators, until Lieutenant G. Parkyn, R. N., in command of the ship Merope, of
Calcutta, on a trading voyage, explored this inlet, and made a survey of the harbour,
in September, 1824. The entrance of the harbour, which is about half a mile wide,
may be easily known by the bold island Killon Ivhid, about 4 miles directly off it ; and
it is formed on the west side by iiigh craggy land, and on the cast side by a rocky
island, with a few trees and shrubs in the centre. The soundings in the middle of the
entrance are from 12 to 14 fathoms, decreasing a little towards the coral banks which
line the shores on each side: a little way in, on the western side, there is a biglit or
cove, called Merope Bay, where the shi|) of this name lay ten days, and procured
good water and refreshments. The anchorage in this bay is in from 8 orO to 5 fathoms,
nearest to the coral bank that lines the north shore. The inner harbour, called Ki llox
Harbour by Captain Parkyn, is about a mile to the southward of Merope Bay, and the
coral reefs project a great way from the shores on each side, in the space between
them ; tiie soundings decrease to 4 and 3 fathoms at tiie entrance of the inner liar-
bour, which is at the S.W. corner of the inlet ; the anchorage here is in 4 or 5 fathoms,
sand and mud, nearly land-locked, and safe for small vessels, where the Merope lay
* Head or promontory.
VOL. II. 3 T
506
PEHOE ISLANDS.
I'elioe
Islands.
12 days. Killoii Town is about a mile to the S.W. of the anchorage, but the channel up
to it is very shoal. At Killon Harbour the natives were civil, and the fresh water was
found to be of good quality ; but at Ty-vvan and the S.W. part of Formosa the water
procured by the Merope was brackish. Captain Blaxland lay 10 days here, in the
Dhaulle schooner, in 1827, and found the natives very friendly.
Hoa-pin.su. HOA-PIN-SU, and TY-AO-YU-SU Islands, lie to the eastward; the former in
lat. 25° 44' N., Ion. 123° 32' E., the other about 5 or (> leagues farther to N. E., and
there are several clusters of rocks between them. These two isles are steep to ap-
proach. There is a rock, about 19 leagues E. by N. of Ty-ao-yu-su, marked " doubtful,"
in the chart of the east coast of China, the existence of which is now proved ; it was
seen by Capt. M. Quin, of H. M.S. Raleigh, on the 4th July, 1837, who gives the po-
sition of the ship 20° 8' JN., Ion. 124° 5' E., the rock then bearing S.| W. It can be
seen 12 or 14 miles from the deck.
THE PEHOE PONGHOU, or PESCADORE ISLANDS, lie in a general di-
rection. North and South, about 8 or 9 leagues from the western side of Formosa,
between the parallels of 23° 8' N. and 23° 56' N. Several of the islands are chained
together by reefs, and there is good anchorage under some of them, in moderate depths
from 6 to 12 or 15 fathoms, with very irregular soundings of 20 to 40 fathoms around
the whole. The largest island is in about lat. 23° 32' N., Ion. 119° 40' E., nearly in the
middle of the group : on its west side there is a good harbour, formed between it and
Fisher Island, which fronts it on that side, and the channel to enter it is on the south
side the latter. The large island is called Pehoe or Ponghou, having several villages,
with a fort and garrison of Tartar soldiers, it being subject to the Chinese Government.
The northern extremity of the group consists of islets, rocks, and coral reefs. Although
they are 8 or 9 leagues distant from the west coast of Formosa, the channel is consi-
derably contracted by the sand-banks which front that coast, and those of Ponkan
River. The Pehoe Islands lie 45 leagues to the eastward of the Lamock Islands,
Soundings. ou the coast of China ; and in this track, the soundings to the S. Westward of the
former are very irregular, as overfalls, from 30 to 8 fathoms, are found upon some shoal
banks in their vicinity. The Eliza got upon a bank, with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms regular
High Island, souudiugs ; and afterwards saw High Island, the S. Westernmost of the Pehoe group,
in lat. 23° 14' N., Ion. 119° 26' E., and found the bank to bear West from that island.
There is also uneven ground and overfalls between these islands and Formosa, with an
extensive bank of irregular soundings from 24 to 10 fathoms, the S. E. extremity of
which is in lat. 22° 52' N., Ion. 1 19° 23' E.
There is a patch of rocks lying about 10 miles S. E. by E. of the centre of Pehoe, with
deep water close to them, and the old Dutch charts give a shoal about 14 miles
N. E. by N. from Pehoe, on the parallel of Low Island (23° 48' N.), and about 9 miles
due East from it.
Captain Ross got on a bank of irregular soundings in lat. 22° 46' N., Ion. 118° o5'E.,
extending to the southward of the Pehoe Islands, where they had 20 fathoms ; and
the least water found was on a ridge of coarse gravel, near to which the Discovery
anchored in the night, and the boats found no less than 7 fathoms water ; lat.
22°51'N. by an observation of the Pole Star, Ion. 119° 1' E. The ridges of coarse
sand or gravel appeared to extend in a North and South direction, with fine sands
between them.
The Discovery anchored in 13 fathoms, sand and shells, about H miles off High
THE PAT-CIIOU AND LIEU-CHEW ISLANDS. 507
Island, with it bearing from S. 24^° E. to S. 79° E.; a town on the largest island, named
Paukfoo by the natives, bore N. 35° E. distant about 8 miles. The Western Islands
were two high black rocks, distant about o miles, bearing N. 37° W. There were many
rocks visible to the eastward, and some shoal spots breaking between the vessel and
the town.
High Island is inhabited and cultivated ; it is of moderate height, flat at the top, with
high rocky cliffs, and may be seen about G leagues in clear weather; from its western
side a reef extends about a mile.
Whilst on the bank of soundings in the vicinity of these islands, tides were expe-
rienced setting all round the compass in 24 hours.
A CHAIN OF ISLANDS extends from Formosa in an easterly and north-easterly islands to the
direction to the southern extremity of the Japan Archipelago, and are comprehended rff^rmosT'
under two groups or divisions.
THE PAT-CHOW, or EIGHT ISLANDS (commonly said to be 17 in number), P;^'-'.';°"' •'■^,,
form the westernmost of these divisions, being nearest to the east coast of Formosa; utundr^"^"'
they are called Madjicosemah Islands by the inhabitants. The southernmost of
them, in lat. 24° 6' N., Ion. 12.3° 52' E., by chronometer, is a low, flat island, detached
about 4 leagues from the others ; and the western extremity of the large islands of the
Pat-chow chain bears from it N.W. bv N. 4 or 5 leagues; it is a hioji bluff point
in lat. 24° 17' N., Ion. 123° 45' E. About 4^ miles W. i N. from this point, lies
Kumi Island, in lat. 24° 25' N., Ion. 123° 5' E., nearly half-way between the point and
Formosa, and is about 3 or 4 miles in extent: although so much detached from the
others, this island may be considered as belonging to the Pat-chow group.
The eastern extremity of the Pat-chow Chain, in lat. 24° 42' N., Ion. 125° 36' E., is
formed by Ty-pin-san, a large island, vvitli a smaller one off its west end ; these are
fronted on the north side by an extensive reef, projecting about 5^ leagues from them.
The Providence, surveying vessel, in 1797, was wrecked on the northern edge of this
reef, in lat. 25° 6' N., Ion. 12.5° 11' E. Between the eastern and western groups of
these islands there is thought to be a clear passage : they are tributary to Great Lieu-
chew. Captain Broughton, after the loss of his ship the Providence, was, with his crew,
treated with great hospitality by the inhabitants of Ty-pin-san, who supplied their
schooner with water and refreshments, to carry them to Macao.
THE LIEU-CHEW, or LOO-CHOO ISLANDS, lie to the north-eastward of \l^^^^^;'''
the Pat-chow group, and consist of one large island surrounded by smaller ones.
The large island is of considerable size, and well inhabited; a number of jimks are
employed trading to Japan and Amoy. This island was visited by H. M. ships
Alceste and Lyra, in 181(),* when Lord Amlierst went on the embassy to Pekin ; and
a survey of its coasts was made by Captain Basil Hall, of the Lyra, who found it to
extend between lat. 26° 3' and 26° 5.3' N., and between Ion. 127° 34' and 128° 18' E.,
being nearly 60 miles long in a N. E. direction, and jireserving a tolerably uniform
breadth of about 10 or 12 miles. The north end is higli and bold, with wood on the
top of the hills: the N. E. coast is also abrupt, but quite barren, and tlie N.W. side
is usually rugged and bare. The S. E. side is low, w ith very little appearance of cul-
tivation : the South, S.W., and western coasts, particularly the two former, are of
* It was .ifterwards visited by Capt. Beechey, in H. M. S. Blossom, who made an excellent survey of Napa-
kiang Road.
3 T 2
508
JAPAN ISLANDS. — NANGA-SAQUE HARBOUR.
Napakiang
Road.
I'ort Melville.
Tides.
niotlerate height, and present a scene of great fertility and high cultivation ; and here
the mass of the population reside.
Napakiang Road, in lat. 26° 13^' N., on the S.W. side of the island, is formed by
surrounding reefs, liaving two passages leading into it, one from the northward, the
other, which is the best, from tiie westward ; both have irregular soundings of 8 to
15 fathoms water, and the depths are from 11 to 9 fathoms to the anchorage in the
road, whicii is a little more than a mile to the eastward of the outer reefs. The town
of Napakiang is about a mile S. Eastward from the anchorage, and the king's palace
about i^ miles to the eastward of the town.
Port Melville lies near the N.VV. part of the island ; the entrance of it is in lat.
26° 4.3' N., formed on the eastern side by Herbert Island, and on the western side by
the reef that fronts a peninsula which projects 5 or 6 miles to the westward, having a
small isle, called Sugar Loaf Island, near its extremity; on the south side of the
peninsula lies Deep Bay, having no soundings with 100 fathoms line in it, at a small
distance from the shore. The entrance into Port Melville is about S. E. by S., along
the western side of Herbert Island, until abreast of the S.W. point of this island, when
two conspicuous round black rocks will be seen off the point forming the S. E. side
of the harbour; the outermost of these rocks should be kept on with the top of a
distant double- lopped hill, bearing S. E. by S. till the harbour opens ; then haul up
about S. S.W., and steer close along the eastern shore, in 7, 6, 5, and 4^ fathoms. The
village will soon shew itself on the western side, and when past the narrowest part a
berth may be selected at discretion. The distant high hill, stated as one of the leading
marks, is not the highest, but the second highest of the range.
Near the middle of the eastern side of Great Lieu-Chew there is a deep inlet, called
Barrow Bay, bounded by shoals, and the S. Eastern coast is mostly fronted by isles
and coral shoals, destitute of any safe place of shelter.
The rise of tide is about 9 feet perpendicular on the springs ; high water at 9 hours
on full and change of moon. Variation of the compass, determined carefully with the
transit instrument, was 0° 52' westerly, in 1816.
The Lieu-chew Islands produce rice and other grain, and coarse tea ; it is said they
work copper mines : they are considered to be in some degree tributary to the Chinese
empire.
To the northward of Great Lieu-chew, other straggling islands of the group or
chain extend in a N. N. E. and northerly direction, to lat. 27° 34' N.
The westernmost islands of the Lieu-chew division are in lat. 26° 10' to 26° 20' N.,
Ion. 127° 8' E., and there are other small islands about 30 leagues farther to the north-
westward. A little to the eastward of a line passing from Lieu-chew to the southern-
most of the Japan Islands there are others, four of which form a group, in lat. 29° 30'
to 29° 40' N., Ion. 128° 15' to 128° 20' E. Meaxima is a considerable island, nearly
S.W. from Nanga-saque Harbour, and its central lat. is 31° 55' N.
Japan Islands. THE JAPAN ISLANDS fomi a very extensive chain, stretching from the south
point of the Korea to Kamtchatska ; they are but little known to Europeans, and our
notice of them will therefore be confined to one or two of their most southern parts.
The Island of Kinsui is the southernmost of the Japan group : on its western side is
Nanga-saque Harbour, in lat. 32° 44' N., Ion. 129° 52' 7" E.,* which is very safe.
Nanpa-saque
Harbour.
* The above position of the centre of Nanga-saque City is by mean of 1,028 lunar distances taken in 1804,
by Captain, now Admiral Krusenstern, and Dr. Horner, the astronomer, in the first voyage of circumnaviga-
tion performed by Russian officers. Captain Torry, in 1803, made this city in lat. 32^ 45' N., Ion. 130° 15' E.
JAPAN ISLANDS. — NANGA-SAQUE HARBOUR. 509
the anchorage in 5 or (5 fatlioras, being sheltered from all winds. From Cape Gotto,
in lat. 32° 35' N., Ion. 128° 44' E., the entrance of Nanga-saque Harbour bears E. by
N. 5 1 miles, and from the easternmost of the Gotto Islands it is only about the distance
of 10 or 11 leagues. Cape Nomo, the southern point of Nanga-saque Bay, is in lat.
32° 35' N., Ion. 129° 42^' E., and there is a. false entrance in lat. 32° 40', which may be
easily mistaken for the true one, and, although it really leads to Nanga-saque, might
prove dangerous, having never been explored. The entrance of the harbour is also
difficult to discover, owing to the proximity of the main land to the Island Cavallos,
which forms the western shore of the entrance, so that it may easily be missed if you
are not certain of the latitude, and do not keep a good look-out.
Captain Fleetwood Pellew, who touched at Nanga-saque in October, 1808, in
H. M. S. Phaeton, gives the following instruction to strangers, who intend to approach,
or to sail into the harbour.
" Those who are unacquainted with Nanga-saque Harbour sliould make the land to capt. PeiUw's
the northward in lat. 32° 47' or 32° 48' N., as the N. E. trade wind blows very con- '°'^'^'^"''"^-
stantly here the greater part of the year. Having made the land in this latitude, you
may run along shore at 2 or 3 miles' distance, as it is steep and bold to approach, and
by doing so it will be almost impossible to miss the harbour. Whereas, being doubt-
ful of tiie accuracy of the charts, and not perceiving the separation of Cavallos Island
from the main, we were nearly missing it in the Phaeton, and our mistake was dis-
covered by seeing Dutch colours hoisted on the island as a signal, by the Japanese."
" By making the land in lat. 32° 48' N., you will be about 3 miles to leeward of
some islands of rugged aspect, one of which is perfectly barren, and formed like a sugar-
loaf, and the largest of them forms a high ridge of rugged rocks : from hence to the
island at the entrance of Nanga-saque Bay there is no danger, and the course is
S. E. about 9 or 10 miles. If close in with the shore, the southern extremity seen will
be a high bluff point, with some rocky islets off it ; this point is about 7 miles to
leeward of the entrance, and was mistaken by us for the east side of the entrance, and
in steering for it the real entrance was discovered : care should be taken not to fall to
leeward, as tlie fresh north-east winds would render it difficult to beat back to the
harbour."
" On the bluff point last-mentioned there is a watch-house with a curious roof; and
on a small island, about 3 miles to the northward of it, there is another, but this is
situated lower than the first; a third is on the middle of Cavallos, and here the Dutcii
colours were displayed. Attention to these marks will prevent any mistake, and a
farther guide is a remarkable high hill at a considerable distance inland, having upon
it a remarkable rise or hump, the land of square form, resembling a tower, and this hill
is directly over Nanga-saque."
" After rounding the Point of Cavallos, Passenburgh, and several small islands near
it, which form the inner entrance of the harbour, will be plainly seen ; also a reef
called the Bone Roaster, close to the islands on the western side ; these must all be
left to starboard, and the main land of Kinsui must be borrowed on, steering direct for
the outer islet outside of Passenburgh, which islet is rugged and rocky, with a few
straggling trees on it, which you may leave on the larboard hand, within half a cables
length, and will have no bottom with the hand-lead. There are also some islets on
the other side, that cannot easily be mistaken fur those off Passenburgh, whicii must
Captain F. Pellew, at the outer ancliorajje, in H.M.S. Phaeton, in 1808, near Passenburgh Island, with the city
bearing about -l miles, observed in lat. 32° 43' 50" N., Ion. 130" 10' E., by two observations of moon and stars,
and about r29° 58' E. by chronometers.
510
BONIN, OR ARZOBISPO ISLANDS.
Tides.
Soutli Island,
and otlier
islands.
all be left on the larboard hand, and those on the eastern side must be left to starboard,
there being no passage within them. When round Passenburgh, the town and har-
bour open to view ; the latter turning suddenly to N. N.W., forms a deep and spacious
bav. Passenburgh is a high, round island, covered with trees, resembling the English
fir ; to the eastward, nearly opposite Passenburgh, a small town will be seen in a paled
enclosure."
From the outer anchorage, where the Phaeton lay, Passenburgh Island boreN. 77° W.,
distant three-quarters of a mile, and the city N. 44° E. about 4 miles.
This, and the Port of Firando, about 12 or 16 leagues farther to the northward, were
formerly frequented by English ships ; but Europeans have not been permitted to trade
to these ports for a considerable period ; excepting the Dutch, who have hitherto been
indulged with the privilege of trading to Nanga-saque, and allowed to keep a mercan-
tile resident there.* The Russian circumnavigator. Admiral Krusenstern, on his
voyage of discovery, touched here and obtained a supply of provisions and refresh-
ments. The variation in 1804 was 1° 52^' westerly. High water at 7 hours 52 minutes
on full and change of moon, rise of tide 10 or 11 feet, in April.
SOUTH ISLAND, in lat. 31° 30' N., Ion. 140° 0' E., by chronometer, lies a great
way to the E. S. Eastward of Nanga-saque ; it is moderately elevated, not of great
extent, and is one of the southernmost islands of the Japan chain ; but other strag-
gling isles, very imperfectly known, stretch 4° or 5° more to the East and south-east-
ward, in lat. 30° to 31l° N".
The brig Nile, of Boston, Captain Forbes, in her passage from Canton to the
Sandwich Islands, in August, 1825, passed two islands, the southernmost in lat.
25°42'N., Ion. 131° 13' E., and the northern one in lat. 25° 53' N.,lon. 131° 17' E., by
good observations and two chronometers. Captain Forbes saw also the high peaked
rock, called Ormsbus Peak, which he made in lat. 29°41'N., Ion. 140° 23' E., and
when within half a mile of this rock the Island Todos los Sanctos bore North.
Exclusive of many straggling islands, lying to the eastward and south-eastward of
the Japan Chain, several of which have been seen and visited by the whalers frequent-
ing those seas, there is also a large group of islands (the Bonin Islands), known to
the Japanese, but hid from the knowledge of Europeans, excepting a few whalers,
until Captain Beechey, in H. M. S. Blossom, explored part of these islands in June,
1827.
Boninsima. THE BONIN-SIMA, or ARZOBISPO ISLANDS, were found by this officer
to consist of several groups, extending from lat. 27° 44^' N., to 26° 30' N.; but the
southern limit was not exactly ascertained. The N.W. island of the northernmost
cluster, called Parry Group, is in lat. 27° 43^' N., Ion. 142° 8'E. ; the cluster consists
Port Lloyd, of small isles, pointed rocks, and very irregular bottom. Port Lloyd, in lat. 27° 5J' N.,
Ion. 142° 11^' E., is on the west side of Peel Island, which is the largest island of
* The ship Frederic, of Calcutta, Captain James Torry, having a cargo selected for that purpose, touched at
Nanga-saque, in September, 1803, with a view of opening a trade with the Japan Islands : this was not per-
mitted, and, of course, the voyage proved unsuccessful, for Captain Torry was equally unfortunate in attempting
to trade among the Lieu-chew Islands, although it had been supposed that the inhabitants of these islands were
inclined to trade with foreign ships.
The English officers who some time since went from Batavia to Nanga-saque, on a voyage of commercial
enterprise, when the former place was under the British Government, seem to have been much better treated
by the Japanese than any Europeans had been for a long period before.
America or to
Australia.
PASSAGE FROM MACAO TO THE N.W. COAST OF AMERICA OR TO AUSTRALIA. 5ll
the chain. The entrance is conspicuous, being marked by a bold high promontory on
the southern side, and a tall quoin-shaped rock on the other. The harbour is nearly
surrounded by hills, crowned with trees of the palm kind, and almost every valley has
a stream of water. Green Turtle abound in the sandy bays, with numerous sharks, and
fish of several kinds are plentifid. At the upper part of the harbour, a small basin,
formed by the coral reefs, is convenient for heaving a ship down if requisite ; and this
port is a very desirable place of re.sort for a whale ship. Caution, however, is proper
in approaching these islands, as the current runs very strong among them, and their
rocky shores are very imperfectly known, and are probably without any safe anchorage
outside, as the depths are great at a small distance from the islands.
SHIPS FROM Macao to the N.W. coast of America or to Australia, Passage from
generally pass out between the south end of Formosa and Luzon, then to the south- f^e n''w""'''*
ward of the Pat-chow and Lieu-chew Islands, sometimes getting a sight of these, or coast of
South Island, particularly when proceeding to the eastward in the North-east Mon-
soon. In this season, the passage is frequently very tedious, from the prevalence of
easterly winds and blowing weather in the vicinity of those islands. Ships proceed-
ing to Australia, when clear of the islands, are obliged to keep to the northward of lat.
30° N., to avoid the North-east Trade, and make up their easting ; and as the trade
wind often hangs between E. by N. and E. by S., so that no easting of consequence
can be made in crossing it, they ought to get into about Ion. 165° to 170^ East, before
they stand to the South of lat. 30° N., to enter the limit of the steady trade.
It therefore appears that much stoi'my weather will be avoided, and a quicker pas- The western
sage made to Australia, by ships which sail from Canton River between September ^^**'**-
and February, if they proceed through the China Sea, and pass to the eastward of the
Grand Natuna, and by the Carimata Passage, along the west side of Borneo. From
hence they should steer for the east end of Madura, and proceed to the southward
through the Straits of Bally, Lombock, or Allass, of which the latter will generally be
found the most convenient. When clear of these straits, every advantage must be taken
with the shifts of wind to get to the southward ; and as it generally prevails at this sea-
son between S. by W. and S. S. E., from thence to the limit of the steady S. Iv trade,
they may be obliged to run considerably to the south-westward, before they get through
it, into a high southern latitude. But when this is accomplished, they will be enabled to
run down the easting speedily, with westerly and variable winds. In Marcli, or early in
April, tliey may either proceed through Bass Strait, or keep to the southward, and pass
round Cape Van Diemen at a moderate distance ; because easterly winds frequently
prevailing in Bass Strait, during these months, are liable to cause some delay to ships
proceeding through it to the eastward ; but at all other times Bass Strait ought to be
preferred, when circumstances are favourable, being the shortest route.
512
PASSAGE THROUGH BALABAC STRAIT TO THE MO-
LUCCAS AND TO SOOLOO; ALSO THE SURIGAO
AND EMBOCADERO PASSAGES, AND EAST COAST
OF LUZON.
To sail tlirougli
Balabac Straits
towards the
Molucca
Islands,
SHIPS sailing from Malacca Strait, in August or September, bound to Amboina,
or to the Banda Islands, will probably make the best passage by proceeding on the
south side of the Anambas and Great Natuna Island ; then between the Royal Char-
lotte and Louisa Shoals, or to the southward of the latter, observing to give a berth to
the shoals adjacent to the Borneo Coast. They must be careful, however, not to fall
to leeward of Balambangan, for south-westerly winds and northerly currents prevail in
August, September, and part of October. Having rounded the north end of that
island and Banguey pretty close, and being clear of Balabac Strait, they should pro-
ceed through among the Sooloo Islands, and round the north end of Celebes, then by
the Molucca Passage to the southward. If before September, they may keep to the
eastward, and pass through Dampier Strait, or the Gillolo Passage.
If in an indifferently sailing ship the season become too late to adopt the Palawan
Passage when bound to China, she may proceed through Balabac Strait, and on the
south side Mindanao, into the Pacific Ocean, or by any other passage which seems
advisable.
Baiaiiac BALABAC STRAIT, formed between the south end of that island and the north
ends of the islands Banguey and Balambangan, has three channels ; the two which
are nearest Balabac are intricate, and are seldom used, the channel adjoining to Ban-
guey being preferable. There is also a channel to the northward of Balabac Island,
and another between the north end of Borneo and the islands Balambangan, Banguey,
and Mallawalle ; either of which, with proper care, may be used in a case of necessity.
KeeneyBaiioo. In approaching these straits from the westward, Keeney Balloo, or Kinibalu, may
be seen if the weather is clear ;* it is a very high mountain, inland, on Borneo, in lat.
6° 3' to 6° 7' N., Ion. 116° 40' E., or 12° 5^' E. from Pulo Aor, and bears S. 6° W.
from the north harbour of Balambangan. When bearing to the south-eastward it
appears in the form of a wedge, with the highest end to the westward, and has been
frequently seen at the distance of 40 to 42 leagues. Tanjong Sampanmangio, the
north point of Borneo, distant about 18 leagues to the northward of Keeney Balloo, is
in about lat. 7° 3' N., and 4 leagues S.W. of the south point of Balambangan.
Betwixt that point and Tanjong Inaroontang, another point of Borneo, about 7 or
Maiioodoo 8 leagues to the eastward, the great Bay of Malloodoo stretches inland a great way
*^ to the southward, having regular soundings and moderate depths, with good anchorage
in most places ; but there is no inducement for a ship to touch here, or at any of the
* It has also been seen from ships to the eastward, when near Cagayan Sooloo.
mountain in Ion. 116° 40|'E.
Capt. Ross made this
BALABAC STRAIT. — ISLANDS.
513
Bangiiey
Island.
bays on the N. W. or N. E. coast of Borneo, the natives being inhospitable and per-
fidious. The Mornington, at anchor in 9 fathoms, mud, about 2i miles from the shore
at the head of the Bay of Malloodoo, had Keeney Balloo bearing S. 23^ W., and the
extremes of the bay from N. 5° E. to N. 33° E. There is a shoal with only two feet
water on it near the middle of the bay, about 6 miles from the nearest shore, which is
not generally known. The variation in 1822, to thelwestward of Balabac Straits, in
lat. 7° 10' N., Ion. 1 15° 30' E., was 1° 25' easterly.
Banguey is a considerable island, extending about 6 or 6^ leagues N. E. and
S.W., having on the N.W. part near the sea a conical peak, which is a good mark
near these islands, for it may be seen 14 or 15 leagues; it is in lat. 7° 19' N.,
Ion. 117° 6' E., by chronometers. There are many islets contiguous to Banguey on
the east, north, and south sides. Ships in want of water may pass to the southward
of Balambangan, and anchor with Banguey Peak N. N. E., about U miles off the
mouth of a river bearing East, where fresh water may be got with facility, there being
depth sufficient on the bar of the river for a long boat. This has been already men-
tioned in the note respecting the passage of the Alfred and True Briton, at page 297 ;
but care must be taken to have the boats armed, for the crew of the Betsy schooner, after
that vessel was wrecked on a shoal in the China Sea, in November, 1805, landed on
Banguey in their boat, and escaped from thence with difficulty, the commander and
part of the crew having been killed by a party of roving Malays, who at first pretended
to be hospitable.
Balambangan, or Balambang Island,* is nearly 5 leagues in length N.E. and Baiambangau
S.W., separated at the N. E. part from Banguey by a channel about a league in ^^''""''
breadth; the southern part of the island is pretty high, but it is rather low to the
northward, and has two harbours on the east side. These harbours are lined by
shoals, and several are scattered over the North Harbour, which is the largest; the
shoals are generally visible from the mast-head in favourable weather. A settlement
formed here by the English some years ago was surprised and cut ofi' by the INIalays ;
it was re-settled in October, 1803, but the establishment being expensive, without any
prospect of real advantage, it was relinquished.
The south channel leading to these harbours is safe, with soundings mostly from
16 to 23 fathoms ofl'the south end of tiie island, and betwixt it and Banguey ; and the
soundings continue regular when steering from thence to the southward into Malloodoo
Bay, mostly soft bottom. The North Channel is narrow and intricate, bordered by
shoals, with the Island of Mangoak nearly in the middle of it, which is surrounded by
a reef, projecting a great way out to the S. E., North, and N. E. ; this island is also
called Tonier, or Tiger Isle ; it is low and sandy in the centre, and on either side there
is a passage. The passage betwixt it and Banguey has from 10 to 7 fathoms water in
mid-channel ; the other, contiguous to Balambangan, has from 7 to 5 or 4 fathoms,
and either of them may be used occasionally, as the wind or circumstances re-
quire, but the Eastern Passage is considered safest. If obliged to work through,
short tacks should be made, and a trusty person kept at the mast-head to look out for
green water ; this ought not to be neglected, in sailing through any of the channels in
the neigiibourhood of these islands.
In working through the channel betwixt Tiger Isle and Banguey, the Mornington .saiiinp
stood within a quarter of a mile of the latter, in some places, to 4 or 4^ fathoms water ;
she had 7 fathoms close to tiie edge of the reef that surrounds Tiger Island, and gene-
Directions.
VOL. II.
By the Malays called Berobangan.
3 L-
514 BALABAC STRAIT. — ISLANDS.
rally 5 fathoms in mid-channel. Tliere are some shoal detached spots in the channel,
which is narrowest when Tiger Island is on witii the north part of Balambangan ;
then, overfalls may be experienced from 4 to 7 fathoms. After tacking in 5 fathoms
on the Banguey side, she had overfalls, and grounded in 2 fathoms coral rock, with
the N.W, point of Banguey bearing South, the Peak S. 61^° E., north point of Balam-
bangan Harbour S. 49° W., off Banguey three-quarters of a mile. In passing through
the other channel, betwixt Tiger Isle and Balambangan, the shoals will be visible on
each side from the mast-head, when in mid-channel ; and from the deck, when near
them, if the weather be clear. Balambangan Island has a reef, dry at low watei", pro-
jecting 3 or 4 miles off its north extremity, very dangerous to approach in the night,
for the water deepens with overfalls in its proximity. The North Harbour of Balam-
bangan is in lat. 7° 16' N., Ion. 116° 58' E., or 14° 43' E. from Malacca, by good chro-
nometers. The best time to enter it is near low water, for the shoals are generally
conspicuous at that time. Within half a mile of the south end of Balambangan, there
are two small isles.
Baiaiiac Balabac Island, bearing North from the opening between Banguey and Balam-
isiand. bangan, distant about 10 leagues, is of considerable height, extending North and
South nearly 5 leagues. A sharp peaked hill, in lat. 7° 59' N., near the middle of the
island, is the highest part ; and near the south end, on the east side, there is shelter in
a bay, called Dalawan, which has reefs projecting from the point that forms the
entrance.
To sail through If a ship bouud through Balabac Strait fall accidentally to leeward in the South-
ne"""'"^''*"' ^^^st Monsoon, and find difficulty in beating to the southward, towards the entrance
of the p/'o/jer strait, she may proceed through the passage to the northward of Bala-
bac. Giving this island a berth of 4 or 5 miles, and having a distinct view of its north
end, a small island will be seen, with a dangerous reef extending from its north end,
in a N.W. direction between it and Balabac. Keep the latter about half a mile
distant, and steer eastward for two isles nearly of equal size: off the north end of the
southernmost there is danger, but as every fathom of decrease in depth may be dis-
cerned from the mast-head, if the weather is clear, an officer or some trusty person
should be there to look out. Pass in mid-channel, which at first entering between
these isles lies E. S. E., or S. E. by E. : when clear of them a group of islets will be
perceived ; do not approach these islets, for an E. S. E. ^ S. course with a leading
wind, is as far to the southward as can be steered with propriety, until a ship has run
5 leagues to the eastward, after clearing the passage.* She may then haul to the
southward at discretion, with the lead kept going, and a good look-out ; taking care
not to get to the eastward near St. Michael Shoals, which are in about lat. 7° 4.3' N.,
steep to, and very dangerous.
The channel nearest to Balabac, on the south side, is by keeping near the reef that
stretches along its south and south-west sides, until the southern extremity of the
island bear about W. by S., then the course is East, between two isles surrounded
by reefs, in a channel about 3 or 4 miles wide: but this channel is seldom used by
any ship.
Soundings extend a considerable distance to the westward of Balabac : with the
■»'■
* The ships Aurora and Commerce, part of a fleet with troops and stores, proceeding to form a settlement at
Balambangan, fell to leeward, and went through this passage to the northward of Balabac, September 23rd,
1803. The Anstruther transport was wrecked upon one of the shoals to the north-eastward of Salingsingan
Island, and many of the troops perished. The Thornhill, another of these ships, was wrecked on the reef that
extends to the westward of the Mangsee Islands.
BALABAC STRAIT.— CHANNELS. 51-5
centre of the island bearing E. by S., and the north point E. N. E., di.stant 3 or
4 leagues offshore, H. M. S. Modeste had 22 fatlioms ; tacked and stood S.W. 3 miles,
and had 10 fathoms; then stood S.W. 4^ miles, in 20, 25, and 30 fathoms at noon,
with Balabac bearing from N. E. by E. to S. E. by E.
MIDDLE CHANNEL is formed on the north side by the two small isles Loom- Middle chan.
boocan and Candalamar, which lie to the south-eastward of Balabac, and the former stra°| ^''''''""
or southernmost is sometimes called the Rabbit, and the other the Coney. This
channel is bounded on the south side by the small isle Salingsingan, and shoals and
reefs to the northward of it : there is a large reef several miles to the southward of
Loomboocan, betwixt which and that isle is said to be the best passage ; for there is
anothei' intricate passage to the southward of the reef, between it and the other dangers
near to Salingsingan.
This middle channel is now seldom used ; although the soundings are generally from
17 to 23 fathoms, sandy bottom, ships are liable at times to experience sudden overfalls
of 5 and 4|^ fathoms, upon coral patches near the edges of the dangers that surround
the channel.
THE SOUTH CHANNEL of Balabac Strait is noiv justly preferred to any of south ciian.
the others, having good anchoring ground from 18 to 25 fathoms, about 4 or 5 miles off "^''
the north ends of Balambangan and Banguey. It is bounded on the south side by a
shoal and five islets adjoining the N. E. end of Banguey, the outermost of which is
called Passage Island, or Goohooan. On the north side it is bounded by the two
small Mangsee Islands, which are in hit. 7° 32' N., Ion. 117° 19' E., distant 8 or Mangsee
9 miles N. by E. from the N. E. point of Banguey; having a reef extending a little to
the southward, and round to \M . by N. and W. S.W. from the southernmost island, to
the distance of nearly 3 leagues. The Salingsingan islet, or northernmost of the
Mangsee Isles, is 3 or 4 miles northward of the other two mentioned above: these
three isles are in a line bearing N. N. W., and seen to be connected by reefs.
If coming from the westward towards this channel or strait, be careful not to fall to Directions to
leeward in the South-west Monsoon ; soundings of 50 to (JO fathoms will be got about tJ'ie channel
1 1 or 12 leao;ues to the westward of Balambansan. The north end of this island and
of Banguey, which bear about East and West of each other, should be approached
within 5 miles, for there seems to be no shoal water beyond 2 or 3 miles of the north
end of Balambangan. Steering E. by N. along Banguey, at the distance of 5 or
6 miles, the Mangsee Isles will soon appear bearing about E. N. E. : keep rather
nearer to Banguey than to the reef that extends from these islands to the westward
about 3 leagues, which is very conspicuous by its light green colour, contrasting the
dark blue water around. "^I'he soundings through are regular, from 7 to 14 and
17 fathoms, over a corally bottom ; and if the Banguey sliore is approached witiiin
3 or 4 miles, the water may probably shoal to G fathoms or less.
^Yhen the Mangsee Isles bear N.N.E., and steering East, a small sand-bank,
encircled by a reef, will soon be seen bearing about E. S. E. ; it lies 2 or .'5 miles from
Passage Island, and ought to be passed on the north side at more than 2 miles' dis-
tance, in not less than 8 fathoms water.
Coming from the eastward, the Mangsee Isles should not be brought to the north-
ward of N.N. W. until within 3 miles of them, then you may edge away gradually,
giving them a berth of 2 or 3 miles; when they are brouglit to bear North, steer
S.M . by W ., which will keep vou in a good channel between the reef on the northern
3 u 2
Islands.
516
CAGAYAN SOOLOO.
side and the Banguey shore, if not affected by oblique tides or currents. Proceeding
along the Banguey shore at 5 or miles' distance, when Banguey Point bears South,
steer out to the westward, being clear of the dangers in the channel.
Having cleared this strait, if bound to China or Manila, late in October or Novem-
ber, or at any other time, steer eastward for the west coast of Mindanao, for the track
near the east side of Palawan is little known, and thought to be interspersed with
shoals. Therefore pass to the southward of the three small islands, called St. Michael,
or Manookraanookan, Bangcawang, and Bancooran, which extend from about lat.
T 42' N., to 7° 50' N., Ion. 118° 40' E., and bear nearly north from Cagayan Sooloo.
The extensive shoals which stretch 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of these islands,
called the St. Michael Shoals, have many rocks appearing above water, and ought to
be avoided ; also Toob Bataha, in about lat. 8° N., which is a bank partly dry, with a
contiguous rock, situated about 15 or 16 leagues to the eastward of these three islands.
Having reached the west coast of Mindanao, keep near it, and to the same sides of
Negroes Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luzon, particularly if N. E. winds be expected
to prevail.
Ships bound to Sooloo, after clearing Balabac Strait, steer to pass near Cagayan
soo?oo^°^"'"" 'Sooloo, on the south side ; but the course ought not to be more southerly than
E. by S. ^ S., till 7 or 8 fathoms clear of the strait, because several ships have got upon
shoal coral patches of 5 or 6 fathoms, when steering about E. S. E. ; and nearer to the
Borneo shore there are some reefs of rocks above water. With Banguey Peak bear-
1 ~"
Passage to the
eastward.
St. Michael
Islands and
Shoals.
Toob Bataha.
To sail to-
ing W
2 N., distant about 8 or 9 leagues, the Fly, in 1796, shoaled suddenly to 4
fathoms, coral, and deepened fast to 22 fathoms, steering to the northward. Shortly
after, she had 5^ fathoms on another patch of coral ; so that a good look-out is indis-
pensable in this track. It was probably on these banks that the Minstrel sounded,
June 23rd, 1822 ; with Banguey Peak bearing W. ^ N., distant 7 or 8 leagues, she had
5 fathoms, then 17 fathoms no ground; steered W. N.W. 34 miles, and crossed over
another shoal, with Banguey Peak bearing West, in 4 and 3| fathoms, to 5, 9, 12, 15, 17
fathoms, then no ground.
Circumjacent
isles.
Sandakaii
Harbour on
Borneo.
CAGAYAN SOOLOO, in lat. 7°0'N., Ion. 1 18° 36' E., or 1° 30' E. from Banguey
Peak by chronometer, is an island of considerable size, and may be discerned at the
distance of 7 or 8 leagues. There are several islets to the northward, and two to the
southward near it, called the Mooleegee Isles, one of which has the form of a saddle,
and is in lat. 6° 54' N. ; a ship may occasionally anchor near them, as they are safe to
approach. Between the south end of Cagayan Sooloo and the two Mooleegee Isles,
there is a safe channel, 5 or 6 miles wide. About 9 or 10 leagues to the southward of
Cagayan Sooloo is the small island of Mambahenawan ; and to the westward and
S. Westward, there are soundings of 20 to 30 fathoms, contiguous to the small islands
which are scattered along the coast of Borneo. There are several deep bays on the
N. E. side of Borneo, with good anchorage in some of them. S.\nuakan Bay is one
of these, and contains three excellent harbours inside : Bahalatolis Island, in lat.
5° 54' N., forms the entrance, and has plenty of good spring water ; these harbours will
afford good shelter to any number of ships, in from 7 or 8 to 4 fathoms. The islands
about the harbours abound with good water, and the surrounding country with teak,
poon, and camphor trees, fit for ship-building; there are also rattans and bamboos;
the tide rises 8 or 9 feet. The Sooloo people have a settlement here.
THE SOOLOO ARCHIPELAGO is that chain of islands which stretches across
SOOLOO ARCHIPELAGO. 517
from the N. E. point of Borneo to the island of Mindanao ; the islands are numerous
and the channels among- them appear tolerably free from danger, and have in them ex-
ceedingly variable depths of water.
Pangootaran, in lat. G° 15' N., Ion. 120° 40' E., bearing E. by S. f S. from Cagayan Pangootaran.
Sooloo, distant about 44 leagues, is the N.Westernmost island of the Sooloo Archipe- rectio'ns't"^ **''
lago ; it being low and level, little more than the trees are visible above water, Hav- sooioo.
ing proceeded from Cagayan Sooloo, and approached the south end of Pangootaran,
a good passage is found between it and Oobean, the next island to the southward,
although witliout soundings ; nor is any found in the direct track from Cagayan Sooloo.
Keep nearest to Pangootaran in passing through, and from hence the Island Sooloo
may be seen, the road of which is at the N.W. end of the island, and bears E. S. E.
about 1 1 leagues from the south end of Pangootaran ; but a S. E. by E. course should
be steered past the small Island of Oosadda, which lies to the eastward of Oobean, and
continued until within 4 or 5 miles of the land to the westward of Sooloo Town. This
course is requisite to avoid the race of Takoot Kababawan, near the west point of Pal-
leeangan Island, on the north side the channel, said to have only 4 fathoms water on
it, with no soundings a little way to the southward. At noon the observed lat.
6° 15' N., when a long reef of black rocks bore S. E. I S., centre of Oobean S. by E. | E.,
Oosadda S.W. nearly in mid-channel ; this reef seems dangerous, extending about Reef-
N. E. and S.W., and the rocks just appearing above water, with breakers on them at
times.
If sailing from Cagayan Sooloo in the evening with a fresh breeze, during the
northerly monsoon, steer more northward than the direct course, to avoid the above-
mentioned reef, as you are liable to have a southerly current ; and do not run for Pan-
gootaran with its south extreme East of you.
Captain Piddington remarks, that ships bound to Sooloo should be careful to give
a berth to the steep, low shores of the adjacent islands, because a crank ship would
risk being overset by the severe N.W. squalls, if she had not room to bear away from
them.
Coming from westward, the proper channel is between Oobean and Pangootaran,
and care is requisite to keep to the southward, during the South-west Monsoon, as the
currents run strong to the northward along the west sides of these islands ; much time
might, therefore, be lost, working to the southward, if the south extreme of Pangoo-
taran be not kept bearing to the northward of East : nor should large ships e\er pro-
ceed through amongst the islands to the N. Eastward of Pangootaran, as rapid tides Tides.
oft) miles" per hour prevail on the springs ; and the rt;^/OT/Y'«//v widest channel, be-
tween the north point of Pandookan and the soutii point of Koolasian, is barred up
by a reef of black rocks, lying on a bed of white sand, having only from to i) feet water
over the rocks, with 3 and 4 fothoms in tlie gaps between them. The gut between
Pangootaran and Pandookan is very narrow, witli deep water.
SOOLOO ISLAND, from which the Archipelago is named, is liigh and of consi-
derable extent ; being about 35 miles in length, East and West, and from 5 to^lO miles
in breadth ; it lies near tiie centre of the Archipelago, on the meridian of 121° E.
Sooloo Town, or Soong, in lat. (P I' N., Ion. 121° 12' E., is the residence of the Rajah Sooioo.
of the island, to whom all tlie islands of this archipelago are subject; mcluding the
larsje Island Basseelau, from which an annual tribute is collected m pepper, and other
articles. The anci:orage in the road is in 18 or 20 fathoms, on a loose .sandy bottom,
with the Sultan's house bearing S, 2(J° E., Mount Teniontangis S, 20° W ., Tulean
518
SOOLOO ARCHIPELAGO. — TAWEE-TAWEE ISLANDS.
Supplies.
Takoot Paboo-
noowan Shoal.
To sail from
Sooloo to S.
Eastward.
Tides and
currents.
Tawee-tawee
Islands.
Rock S. 67° VV., the S.W. point of Palleeangan N. 60° W., distance off the town li
miles. The bottom being indifferent holding ground, ships are liable to drive with
N.W. squalls. Bullocks are plentiful, of good quality, and at a moderate price.
Poultry and live stock of all kinds, with abundance of vegetables and fruits, may be
procured ; also wood and water. The inhabitants are a treacherous race, and must be
carefully watched : it is not advisable to touch here in a small ship to procure supplies
or to trade, unless well armed, and prepared to resist any attack that may be made by
the natives. The fleet from China, in June, 1795, anchored in Toolyan Bay, near
the east end of Sooloo, and watered there ; then proceeded out by the Tapeantana
Channel.
If a large ship approach Sooloo Road from N. Eastward, care must be taken to avoid
Takoot Paboonoowan Shoal, on which the Swedish ship Gustavus Adolphus struck
in 1798, where she had only from 3 to 3j fathoms, and injured her rudder ; it is in lat.
6° 15' N., distant about 6 leagues nearly N. by W. from the east end of Sooloo, and 5
leagues to the westward of the Duo Bolod, which are two high rocks, nearly mid-way
betwixt Sooloo and Basseelan.
Departing fiom Sooloo Road, the best track when bound to S. Eastward is round
the west end of the island, then leaving the high island Tapool and the low islands
Talook and Kabingaan to the southward, and Pata with its contiguous isles to the
northward. There are soundings mostly through this track, and anchorage between
the islands, where a ship may stop tide occasionally ; and it is safe working through
in the night, if the weather be clear. There seem to be, however, some coral patches
hereabout, for the Albion tacked on a rocky spot in 8^ fathoms, the rocks visible under
the ship, with the south point of Pata bearing East, the S. E. end of the low island
Talook, which lies to the N.W. of Kabingaan, S. E. by S., and the westernmost high
land of Sooloo N. N.W.
The tides set fair through the channel, about E. S. E. and opposite, sometimes very
strong ; off the west end of Sooloo they have been found to set N.W. and S. E. in
December, about 4 miles per hour. During the North-east Monsoon there is generally a
N.W^ or westerly current in the neaps, betwixt Sooloo and Basseelan, and in the
track from thence to Balabac Strait. In March and April the current sets mostly to
the eastward among the Sooloo Islands ; but it sets to the westward at the same time,
in the openings of the Philippine Islands, to the northward of Mindanao.
Betwixt several of the islands eastward of Sooloo there are safe channels, with mo-
derate depths for anchorage ; but if any of them are adopted, caution is requisite, for
they are little frequented, and reefs project from some of the islands. August 18th,
1821, the Minstrel, Captain Barnes, having been set to the eastward of Sooloo by the
current, passed through between Kapooal and Beeteenan, and had 12^ fathoms the
least water in mid-channel.
The Tawee-tawee Islands, forming the S. Western part of the Sooloo Archipe-
lago, extend nearly to the Peninsula of Unsang, the extremity of which forms the N.E.
point of Borneo. They consist of an extensive chain of islands, very imperfectly
known, with several dangers among them; particularly on the Pearl Bank, called
Tahow, which lies in about lat. 6° 44' N., distant 8 or 9 leagues to the N. N.W. of
Tawee-tawee, and 19 leagues to the westward of Sooloo. Great caution is indispen-
sable, if a ship intend to touch at any of these islands; for, not long ago, some of the
chiefs of Tawee-tawee enticed a ship to proceed there, under the profession of friendly
intercourse ; but she was soon assailed by these deceitful barbarians, and narrowly
escaped being cut off by them.
SURIGAO PASSAGE. 519
Another chain of islands stretciies from Tawee-tawee Islands and from Unsang, a
great way out from the coast of Borneo ; and the southernmost of them, called the
Leegetan Islands, in about lat. 4° 20' N. and 10 leagues off the coast, have several reefs
and sand-banks around, without any soundings near them.
If a ship sail near these islands, or along the coast of Borneo, great care must be
taken to keep a boat ahead sounding in the night. The Laurel, from China, bound
to Batavia, proceeded by this track in July, 1787, and saw a rock about the size of a
boat, with breakers on its west end, about 2 or .3 leagues to the northward of the small
isles Baguan and Taganac, distant 8 leagues from the coast of Borneo. She endea-
voured to work close round Unsang, but the winds being light, with a northerly cur-
rent, obliged her to run along the north side of Tawee-tawee ; she then passed between
the two islands off its east end, called Sigboye and Tambagaan, in a channel li miles
wide, with soundings 15 to 23 fathoms, coral rock. When through, she steered E. S. E.
to give a berth to a sand-bank extending northward from a Haycock Island, and passed
out into the open sea between two other islands, least water 9|^ fathoms in the channel.
Breakers were seen projecting about 2 miles from the east end of the southernmost
island, which lie to the westward of the channel.
THE SURIGAO PASSAGE, or STRAIT OF PANOAN, formed between s.>ngao
Mindanao to the southward and the other Philippine Islands to the northward, and P^^'^^e*-
leading into the Pacific Ocean, is seldom used by any ship bound to China by the
eastern passage : rapid tides at times among the numerous islands at the eastern part,
where there are no soundings, rendering it exceedingly dangerous. Besides, it is in
too great a latitude to be adopted late in the season, for the islands outside become a
lee shore, when the North-east Monsoon sets in.*
If a ship proceeding to China have westerly winds when near the western part of To sail
this passage, and be carried into it by the current, she might venture in a case of neces- *'"'°"6'"*-
sity to proceed through, if October is not far advanced.
The coast of Mindanao, which is steep and bold, should be kept pretty close aboard,
and a berth given to the two Murcielagos Isles, that lie near Point Galera ; the course
continues along the coast to the E. N. Eastward, between Mindanao and the islands to
the northward. Of these, the nearest are Aliguay and Silino, two low woody islands,
steep to on the south side ; and the large islands to the northward will be seen, if the
weather is clear. From Point Tagola, which lies to the southward of Silino Island,
the coast trends to the southward of East, and forms several bays, but the course is
about E. by N. 25 or 26 leagues to Camiguin : this is a high island, with a knob
on its centre, that may be seen 20 leagues ; and being situated near Sipaca Point
on Mindanao, the channel is on the outside of the island. Having passed Ca-
miguin, steer to the N. E. for the channel between the north point of Mindanao
and Panoan, which is 6 or 8 miles wide, tiien haul round the S. E. point of Panoan,
and proceed to the northward along the east side of the large island of Leyte, until a
bluff point on it is brought to bear S.W. by W. h W. With this bearing of the point,
steer on the o])posite course or bearing, wliicli will carry you through the channel into
the ocean, between Linago or Passage Island to the southward, and Omonkon, So-
loan, and two other small islands, to tiie northward ; this channel is wide, and seems
clear of danjier.
■&"^
* The Royal Captain, bound to China, went throunli this passajje, and got clear of the islands, October 8th,
1762, and the London went throiiijh it in October, 1764; the former ship experienced rapid tides, at the
eastern part of the strait, but the London did not, nor did she meet with any considerable difficulty or danger.
520
SURIGAO PASSAGE.
Surigao
village.
Ancliorage.
Tides.
Sailing direc.
rions.
Mr. Maitland's
remaiks.
When passing through the channel between the north point of Mindanao and Pa-
noan, two small woody isles will be seen, one of them ahead, and the other to the
southward of it. Betwixt the latter and Mindanao there are soundings of 25 to 30
fathoms, and 1-5 to 10 fathoms very near the Mindanao shore. The Spanish village of
Surigao, consisting of a few houses, is situated about 2 leagues to the southward of the
small isle; and by hauling to the southward close along the coast of Mindanao, you
may anchor in 14 or 15 fathoms, fine grey sand, with the village bearing S. by W., dis-
tant 1 or 1^ miles. If it is brought to bear S.W. or more westerly, at the distance of 3
or 4 miles, neither anchors nor cables will hold against the tides, which run sometimes
at the rate of 9 or 10 miles per hour, as experienced by the Royal Captain, at anchor
here, in 1762.
The Surigao Islands, which front this bay, form a compact chain, stretching from
the N. E. part of Mindanao, in a northerly direction nearly to Passage Island, at the
east entrance of the strait of Panoan. There is no safe passage between them, for
the tide runs at the rate off) or 10 knots, with dangerous ripplings, in the two narrow
guts formed between the southernmost of these islands and tiie south point of the bay.
Ships intending to stop at Surigao Road for water should, with the wind at south-
ward or westward, carry all possible sail, taking care to haul close round Surigao Point,
between the South Woody Island and Mindanao, keeping this coast aboard until the
village bear S. by W., distant 1^ miles. In this situation, they ought to anchor in 15
fathoms, and not bring the village farther to the westward ; here is a fresh water river ;
by observations taken in H. M. Ship Psyche, in 1809, Surigao village is in lat. 9° 47'N.,
Ion. 125° 25' E. When going in, the small woody island may be passed at a quarter
of a mile distance, but not nearer.
The propriety of keeping near the Mindanao shore, in proceeding to the anchorage
at Surigao, will appear evident by the following remark, taken from a plan of that bay,
constructed by Mr. C. Maitland, master of the Psyche.
Having no good directions, this ship did not keep Surigao Point and the Mindanao
shore aboard, but passed to the eastward of South Woody Island, and finding the ebb
tide running rapidly to S. Eastward, she was obliged to anchor in 40 fathoms. The
cable immediately parted, and a second anchor was let go, which not bringing the ship
up, she was obliged to cut ; but in working against the strong ebb tide, she was horsed
close over to the islands bounding the east side of the bay, forced again to anchor in
27 fathoms, where she lay two days blowing a gale at westward, with the rocks under
her stern.
When the weather became moderate, she passed to the northward and north-west-
ward, along the west side of the chain of islands, through an intricate channel, formed
between the chain and N. E. island, which is a large island on the N. E. side of the
bay. Here she narrowly escaped being lost upon a reef which projects from the west
point of the island, and which lies directly East from N. E. island, and bounds the
east side of Psyche Channel.
There is a shoal, with only 2 fathoms water on it, bewixt N. E. Island and South
Woody Island, nearest to the former ; but no ship ought to go outside of South Woody
Island, for if she is obliged to anchor in deep water, no cables or anchors will hold
against the tides.
The easternmost of the Surigao Islands, fronting the ocean directly East from the bay,
has a reef projecting from its N. E. part, on which a Spanish ship was lost in 1808.*
* No ship should venture to pass through the Strait of Panoan, unless in a case of necessity, on account of
the overwhelming tides. The ship Hydery, of Calcutta, returning from Hobart Town, and endeavouring to
EMBOCADERO, OR ST. BERNARDINO STRAIT. 521
EMBOCADERO, or ST. BERNARDINO STRAIT, called also the Strait Embocadero.
OF Manila, is formed between the south coast of Luzon and the numerous islands
in its vicinity.
The Galleons from Acapulco usually passed through these straits ; a brief descrip-
tion of the eastern entrance may be proper, in case any ships be disabled by a Ty-
foong, or otherwise in distress, when proceeding to or from China by the eastern
passage, and find it indispensable to run for these straits.
Cape Espiritu Santo, the N, Eastern extremity of Samar Island, is bold high land, Cape Espintu
that may be seen 1-2 or 14 leagues ; and is in lat. 12° 40' N., Ion. 125° 30' E.,* by mean ^'""°-
of the observations and chronometers of several ships w hich made it when returning
from China by the Eastern Passage. Ships steering for the Embocadero generally To approach
make this cape, whicii is proper with an easterly or southerly wind ; but as the north ^ero. "" ""^^
coast of Samar extends nearly West from the cape, about 20 leagues to the entrance of
Embocadero, it seems advisable to steer direct for that strait, if the wind be northerly,
because several small islands are scattered along the coast, and with this wind it
becomes a lee shore. A few leagues West from Cape Espiritu Santo is the Port of Point Paiapa,
Palapa, having 6 and 5 fathoms water inside, where there is a chain of rocks near ^oufislands.
the eastern part ; the western part, according to tlie Spanish plan, seems safe. This
port is formed inside the Island Batac or Batag, between it and the contiguous
islands ; there are two channels leading to the port, one on each side of Batac, but
that to the westward seems the best, formed betwixt the reef that projects from the
island, and another reef projecting from the adjoining Island of Cahayaga. The course
in is about South, and the depths decrease from 18 or 20 fathoms at the entrance, to
8, 7, and (j fathoms inside ; good water is got on Laguan Island, which forms the
S.W. side of the port. About 4 or 5 miles S.W. of this port, there is good anchorage Anchorage
on the west side of Laguan Island, near the village of that name, where a ship ""^" Laguan.
may anclior in 6 or 7 fathoms, betwixt it and the Samar shore, sheltered from East
and N. E. winds, but exposed to N.W. and West.
The entrance of Embocadero, formed betwixt the S. E. end of Luzon and the N.W. To sail into the
point of Samar, is contracted by a group of isles and rocks, which lie a little outside ^'^''°*=^'^"°-
the latter. The Isle St. Bernardino is detached from these to north-westward, and on
either side of it there is a passage with soundings of 30 to 50 or GO fathoms. Close to St.
Bernardino there is a small islet, and to the westward a group of isles and rocks will be
perceived contiguous to the point of Luzon ; the channel is between these and the
islands Dalupiri, Capul, and others that lie to the southward ; and then to the west-
ward, between the north-east side of the island Ticao and Luzon.
Port St. Jacinto, in lat. 12° 34' N., is on the north-east side of Ticao, which is the Portandroad
first large island to the westward of the entrance of Embocadero, distant about !) or °^®'- •'''"^'""'•
10 leagues from St. Bernardino. This place may be easily known by a building, with
some round bastions, forming a kind of fort, which stands on a rocky cliff, the land
rising in hills behind it. The anchorage in the road in 15 or 10 fathoms, sand and
gravel, is little more than half a mile off shore, with the house or fort bearing S.W.
f W., a pvraniid rock to the southward of it South, the points which form the entrance
of the harbour W. by N. ^ N., and W. by S. i S., Sugar Loaf Hill on Luzon N. ^ W.,
and the mouth of Sorsogon Harbour N. by E. f E., distant about 4^ leagues. Ships
pursue this .passage in October, 1832, was drifted on one of the outer rocky isles by the dre.idful whirlpools on
the flood tide, which threw her on her beam ends, then swept her from that isle and laid her on another one
adjacent, where she became a wreck.
* A Spanish Chart, said to be from good observations, places it in lat. 12 Si' N., Ion. 125° 12' E.
VOL. II. 3 X
522
EMBOCADERO, OR ST. BERNARDINO STRAIT.
Tides.
Watering
place.
Supplies.
Sorsogoii
Harbour.
Fresli water.
Directions.
Minerva Rock.
Bays or hai-
bours adjacent.
may anchor in from 23 to 7 fathoms, but the bank being steep, it is proper, coming in
during tlie night, to bring up as soon as possible after getting 26 or 24 fathoms, from
which the water shoals quick to 4^ fathoms. There is very little stream of tide
in the road, the rise is 6 feet, and it is higli water between 6 and 7 hours on full and
change of moon.
The south point of the entrance of the harbour is fronted by a reef which stretches
along shore to southward ; and a reef projects out nearly half a mile from a point where
there is a black rock, about a mile to the northward of the north point of the harbour's
mouth. I'he latter is contracted by a reef on the south side, but the depths decrease
regularly to 10, 8, and 7 fathoms, inside the port, where there is room for several ships ;
but the northern arm of it being very shoal, they are obliged to moor towards the
.south side, with the entrance partly open.
The watering place is about 2 miles to the northward of the road, in a pool 10 or
12 yards above high water mark; into which a small run descends through a valley
among trees and bushes, and is not easily perceived ; the water is good.
The Galleons used to touch at this place in their passage to and from Acapulco :
good beef and tropical fruits, such as pine-apples and water melons, may be procured.
About a league to the northward of St. Jacinto lies the bay or inlet of Tasdugan,
having 10 and 12 fathoms water in it; and at the north-west end of the island, the
bay or port of St. Miguel is situated, with 65 fathoms water in the entrance, and from
20 to 10 fathoms close to the reefs at the head of the bay.
Sorsogon Harbour, on the coast of Luzon, opposite the north end of Ticao, is said to
be safe : Bagatao Island, which lies in the entrance, is connected with the east point
by a shoal ; the channel being betwixt its western point and the island of Malahu-
masan, which projects southward from the land on the west side the harbour. The
soundings are irregular in the channel, from 7 or 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms, and nearly the
same inside. Water is got on the east side the harbour, which is well sheltered from
all winds : and about 2 leagues from the outer part of the entrance, it opens into a
s])acious lagoon or inner harbour, with soundings from 6 to 3 fathoms.
Having rounded the N.W. extreme of Ticao, the track through the strait is to the
W. S. W. betwixt the south point of the large island Burias and the north point of
Masbate, another large island to the southward. From hence, the course is nearly
W. N.W., about 23 leagues, to the passage between the south end of the large island,
Marinduque and the small island of Banton, and other islands that lie to the eastward
of Mindora ; which, with it, bound the channel on the south side. The passage con-
tinues to the westward betwixt the north coast of Mindora and the S.W. part of Luzon,
leaving Green Island and Maricaba to the northward ; then round point Santiago,
the S. W. point of Luzon, and inside Amul and the Luban Islands, if bound to
Manila Bay.
In passing Point Santiago, the Minerva Rock must be avoided, distant 4 or 5 miles
E. S. E. from this point, described under the article Luban, at p. 491.
Where soundings are found in these straits, the depths are generally too great for
anchorage ; but contiguous to the passage there are some small bays or ports, where
vessels might anchor occasionally, exclusive of those already mentioned. Port Magna,
at the middle of the N. E. side of Masbate Island, fronting the Island Ticao, is
thought to be a safe harbour. St. Andre is a small port, fit for small vessels, on the
west side the island of Marinduque, a little southward of the IV.W. point. On the
north side of Mindora, there is anchorage in some places opposite Green Island, the
best of which is Calapan Road, S.E. of that island, and directly inside the Baco Isles.
LUZON, EAST COAST. 523
Batangas Bay, on the S.W. coast of Luzon, northward of the west end of Green Batangas
Island, has a mud-bank lining the bottom of it, with 7 and 8 fathoms close to, and '^^^'
regular soundings in the N. E. angle of the bay. Here, the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms
very near the shore, increasing to 35 and 40 fathoms about 2 miles off; and a little
farther out, no ground. A ship may anchor in this part of the bay, opposite the con-
vent of Batangas, where is a grove of trees. At the N.W. part of the bay stands the
village and fort of Bawang, and the land to the northward is cultivated to the tops of
the hills, which rise with a gentle acclivity. The land is high on the east side, and
low on the west side the entrance of the bay, and no soundings are obtained until near
the land on the east side, or until well in towai'ds the northern shore.
THE EAST COAST OF LUZON forms a very great and deep bay, extending East coast of
from about lat. 14° to 17° 30' N. The large Island Catanduanes lies off the east end ^'"^^miuanes
of Luzon, 16 or 18 leagues to the northward of the Embocadero Passage; its north
end is in about lat, 14° 16' N., and the south end in lat. 13° 38' N., and about Ion.
124° 16' E. The coast of Luzon is, in several parts, fronted by coral reefs, with many
islands interspersed along the southern part, betwixt the bottom of the Great Bay and
Catanduanes. Although there are some bays or harbours fit for small vessels, they are
little known, and seem intricate to enter. Large ships ought not, therefore, to ap-
proach this coast in the North-east Monsoon betwixt Cape Engano and Catan-
duanes Island, to prevent being embayed ; for if by any accident they fall to the west-
ward near Cape Espiritu Santo, when proceeding by the Eastern Passage to China,
they should endeavour to regain sufficient easting with Embocadero under their lee,
and to steer for it, in case of necessity ; or push through it and the Straits of Manila,
and afterwards proceed along the west coast of Luzon to the northward, at least as far
as Cape Bolina, before crossing over for the coast of China.
The places on the east coast, affording anchorage, or tolerable shelter from north-east Places affuid-
winds, are Davilican Bay, a little southward of lat. 17° N., and Casiguran Bay, about '"s*'"^""
23 leagues farther southward. Also close under the west side the Island Polo, which
is in about lat. 15° 8' N., distant 12 or 14 leagues southward from Casiguran Bay ;
there being soundings betwixt the island and the main ; and directly West from its
south point there is an inlet into a harbour for boats, having ]^ fathoms in the en-
trance, and 3 or 4 fathoms inside. This part of the coast betwixt Polo and Alabat
Island, 7 or 8 leagues more to the southward, is called Lampon Bay.
St. Miguel de Naga, about 16 leagues westward of the north end of Catanduanes, is st Miguel dc
a large bay, with several islands fronting the entrance, and a reef surrounding the "^^ *''
east point; it is said to have anchorage and shelter from most winds.
Port Seeseeran, in lat. 14° 20' N.,* about Ion. 123° 40' E., situated about 8 leagues Port Seesee-
eastward of the entrance of the bay last mentioned, and about the same distance west- "^^
ward of the north-west end of Catanduanes, is a safe harbour, sheltered from sea by
a group of islands, of which the largest fronting it is called Quinalazag or Ticos. The
entrance is close round the east point of this island, the channel being bounded by
small isles, and an extensive reef to the eastward. From 30 or 40 fathoms outside, the
depths decrease, steering South into the entrance of the port, to 15 and 12 fathoms;
and when round the east point of tlie Island Quinalazag, a ship should liaul to the
westward, and anchor under it in 7, 6, or 5 fathoms water, where slie w ill be sheltered
from all winds, and have the village Bahi, on the Luzon shore, opposite to her. The
* Some accounts place it much farther to the southward.
3x2
524
BORNEO, WEST COAST.
peaked mountain Ysarroc stands on the inner part of the peninsula that separates the
bay of St. Miguel de Naga from Port Seeseeran, about 3 leagues to the westward of
the latter. There are several small islands off the north-west part of Catanduanes,
and a reef lining its western side ; but the channel is safe betwixt it and the islands
that border the coast of Luzon, and this is the passage frequented by Spanish ships,
when proceeding from Manila through Embocadero towards Port Seeseeran.
WEST COAST OF BORNEO*
Caution lor
ships touching
on the N. W.
coast of
Borneo.
THE predatory and treacherous disposition of the inhabitants of Borneo has dis-
couraged almost every European from venturing to trade there. On the north-west
coast in the river of Borneo Proper, there are about forty or fifty large proasf belong-
ing to the town, which are instantly armed and tilled with men, when a ship is to be
assaulted. Therefore, except in a large ship well fitted for defence, it is not safe to
remain in the road ; and it is certain destruction to go up the river to the town. If a
boat is sent on shore, the Rajah will offer to trade when the ship is brought into the
river, and when the commander comes to visit him : beware of complying with either
of these conditions, for, by doing so. Captain Dixon, of the May, a stout ship, well
armed, was massacred with his four officers and part of the crew, and the ship and
cargo seized. About three months after this catastrophe, the Warren Hastings,
mounting about 16 guns, anchored in the road of Borneo Proper, and after remaining-
a few days, and communicating in her boat with the town, 23 large proas came out of
the river to attack her, which obliged her to leave the place without trading. It may,
therefore, be only necessary to notice briefly the principal places on this coast, which
are sometimes visited by European navigators.
Abai Harbour
and adjacent
coast.
ABAI HARBOUR, in about lat. 6° 21' N., distant 15 or 16 leagues S.W. by S.
nearly from Tanjong Sampanmangio, the north point of Borneo, is formed by the
peaked island of Oosookan, which lies about a league to the westward of Tampassook
Point. The entrance is on the east side of the island, but there is not depth in the
harbour at high water for a vessel drawing above 12 feet, nor is the depth much
greater in the river. About 1^ miles North from Oosookan, there is a reef of rocks
partly visible at half-ebb, and several coral banks, with from 4 to 6 fathoms on them,
lie in the offing betwixt this place and the north point of Borneo ; the Mantannane
Isles in lat. 6° 39' N., and a rock or reef which is said to lie 4 or 5 leagues northward
of them. Soundings extend a great way out from the coast, and are pretty regular in
sailing along ; there are several bays without shelter, and Batomande Point, about 5
leagues southward of the North Point of Borneo, has a reef of rocks, partly above water,
projecting from it, which ought to have a berth of half a mile, or more. A chain of
mountains stretches along the coast, which, at Tampassook and some other parts, is
low near the sea.
By the natives pronounced Brunai.
t Or Prahus.
BORNEO, NORTH-WEST COAST. 525
AMBOON HARBOUR, separated by a bay from Oosookan Island, has a small Amboon Har-
isle in the entrance, and is said to be pretty safe, with sufficient depth of water. Tan- neighbouring
jong Kaetan, about 7 leagues farther S.W., is the north point of a great bay, in which coast.
Pulo Gaya and other islands stretch along the coast to Pulo Teega, in lat. 5° 38' N.,
and 14 leagues S.W. of Tanjong Kaetan. Mangallom Island, and some coral shoals
to the westward of it, lie in the offing near the edge of the bank of soundings. Kee-
manees Point, about 5 miles S.W. by S. from Pulo Teega, or Three Islands, has a reef
projecting H miles ; and W. N.W., 5 or (J miles from it, there is a dry sand-bank, and
a shoal, with 2 fathoms water, about 2^ leagues to the south-westward of the latter.
To the eastward of the point there is good shelter in 7 fathoms, mud, from S.W. and
West winds.
LABOOAN ISLAND, about 7 or 8 leagues S.W. from Keemanees Point, is of mo- Labooan, ami
derate height : several isles off its S. E. part stretch towards the Borneo shore, leaving ottie'isian s.
a passage for small vessels. From its S.W. point, four isles, connected by rocks, pro-
ject S. S.W. about 5 miles, with an islet and a reef stretching from their extremities :
the two next to Labooan are called Corooman, and the others Roosoocan. The
channel into Borneo Road is between these and Tree Island, or Two Mast Island,
which is small, and distant about 2^ leagues S. S. Westward of them. The depths in
the channel are from 30 to 20 fathoms, and although the bottom is hard, with irregular
soundings in some parts near the islands, they may be approached within 2 miles, or
less.
PULO MOOARRO, distant 4 or 5 miles southward from Tree Island, forms the
west side the entrance of Borneo River, and is separated by a narrow channel from the
main land. A sand or reef stretches from its point to N. E. 3 or 4 miles, then round
to N.W. towards Tree Island, and the latter is also fronted by a reef: the change from
soft to hard ground denotes the approach to the reef off Pulo Mooarro. The channel
into the river is close to the S. E. point, and along the south side Pulo Mooarro, being
bounded on the other side by an extensive mud-bank. The town of Borneo, or Bor- River and
neo Proper, is 44 leagues up the river, which is navigable by vessels of considerable '°'"'"
burthen ; junks, of 500 tons measurement, are built here, for the China trade, and are
navigated by Chinese.
The anchorage in the road is about 5 or 6 miles N. E. of Pulo Mooarro, in 9 or 10 Anchorage.
fathoms, mud ; but the whole space between the entrance of the river and tiie islands
fronting Labooan may be considered as the road. The Warren Hastings, at anchor
in 21 fathoms, mud, had the east point of Pulo Mooarro bearing S. by E., about G or 7
miles distant. Tree Island W. S. W., islands to the northward from N.^ E. to IS.E. by E.,
distant from the South Roosoocan 5 or 6 miles, and made the lat. 5° 0' N. by observa-
tion. Some accounts place Borneo Road several miles more northerly ; Captain Kir-
ton's plan of the river makes Pnlo Mooarro in lat. 5° 4' N. There are only two tides Tides.
in 24 hours, the Hood in the road setting in the South-west Monsoon 8 hours S. East-
erly, and the ebb 14 hours to N.W., but not strong.
TANJONG BARRAM, or LOW CAPE, has a reef of rocks or breakers project- Tanjong
ing a great way to the S. Westward and westward ; it is distant about 27 leagues W.S.W. ^""""•
of Borneo Road, the coast between them forming a bay, with irregular soundings of 15
to 30 fathoms about 4 or 6 leagues off shore. In the offing are some small isles and
shoals, but their true positions are uncertain ; about 7 leagues nearly W. N.W. from
526
BORNEO, NORTH-WEST COAST.
Tanjonp
Dattoo.
Tanjong
A pee.
r.arkin Shoal.
Tree Islands, off the entrance of Borneo Road, there is a coral bank, having on it 5 or
6 fathoms.
TANJONG DATTOO, in about lat. 3° N., forming the west point of Sedang Bay,
in which are a number of small isles, has a reef projecting from it, and an islet on the
extremity. The coast between it and Tanjong Barram, distant about 60 leagues, forms
two large bays, separated by Tanjong Sisor, a point about 26 leagues from the latter.
There are some dangers abreast this point in the offing, not well known : in sailing
along, they are best avoided by keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the coast.
TANJONG A PEE, in about lat. 2°0'or 1° 55' N., Ion. 109° 14' E., distant about 30
leagues S. Westward from Tanjong Dattoo, is fronted by a reef, projecting to a consi-
derable distance, and the hills over it being connected by low land, have the ap-
pearance of islands when seen from northward. The coast in this space forms a
concavity, which requires much caution in approaching, or in passing between it and
the South Natuna Islands in the offing, to the northward of Tanjong Apee ; this chan-
nel has the Larkin Shoal and others in it, probably not yet known, as the following
information seems to evince.
Mac Koy
Rock.
Tides.
Sambas River
and coast ad-
jacent.
MAC KOY ROCK is another danger, discovered May 2nd, 1835, at 8 a.m., by
Captain Mac Koy, in the ship Atwick.* When aground on the rock, where the ship
lay 8 hours, observed lat. 2° 16' N., the Haycock bearing VV. 2i°N., distant about 10
miles, and apparently the nearest land; Sapata group from N. 2^° W. to N.49°W.;
a »ap, being the centre of an island, S. 15° W ; northernmost high land of Borneo
S. 68° E. The rock is of small extent, formed of coral, with from 3 fathoms to 8 feet
the least water over it ; and it appears to be about 6 or 7 miles westward of the Lar-
kin Shoal, proving the necessity of great caution in ships passing between the South
Natunas and the coast of Borneo.
The tides run alone: the N.W. coast of Borneo from 1 to 2 miles an hour : the stream
or current to N. Eastward runs strongest in the South-west Monsoon ; and m the
northerly monsoon the current or tide to the S.W. prevails. Land and sea breezes are
common, particularly in the South-west Monsoon. The South Natunas, Larkin Shoal,
and other dangers in that locality, have been described in the section which treats of
the " Islands in the south-western part of the China Sea."
SAMBAS RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 1° 13^' N., Ion. 109° 3'E., by lunar obser-
vations, distant about 16 leagues southward of Tanjong Apee, has a wide entrance,
with some small islets touching the north point, and two hills on the other. The town
is about 10 leagues up the river on the south branch, which has many windings near
the town. The principal branch is wide, running directly eastward, having many lateral
branches, one of w hich leads to Borneo ; and the sea flowing into the river a great way
makes the water brackish 4 or 5 leagues up, so that ships in want of Mater are obliged
to get it from a great distance. The anchorage in. the road is off the mouth of the river,
bearing East or E. ^ N., in any convenient depth, from 15 to 5 fathoms, the decrease
being regular over a soft bottom to 4 fathoms about 1^ or 2 miles off shore. The
soundings are regular along this part of the coast, and extend across the sea to Pulo
Lingin, and to the entrance of the strait of Singapore. Sambas is one of the places on
* On his previous voyage he discovered a dangerous rock, bearing this ship's name, situated to the north-
ward of Clement Strait, upon which she received great injury.
BORNEO, WEST COAST.
527
the Borneo coast sometimes visited by ships employed in the eastern trade from Bengal ;
it was fortified by a piratical rajah, who was driven to the interior by a British force
sent from Batavia in 1812, but he is said to have returned to it again. Since the late
treaty with the Netherlands government, the Dutch have claimed as their right most
of the trading ports along this coast, where they have placed commercial residents
and some troops. In lat. 1°4'N. is Slackoo Road, where vessels sometimes stop to siackoo Road.
trade.
MAMPAVA POINT, in lat. 0° 17^' N., Ion. 109=" 0' E., distant about 19 leagues Mampava.
South a little westerly from Sambas River, is 4 miles to the westward of the mouth of
Mampava River, only navigable by proas, and has a fort at the entrance of the town of
Mampava a few miles inside. The anchorage in the road is in 5 to 8 fathoms, about
3 or 4 miles oft" shore, with the mouth of the river N. by E. ^ E, ; or to the westward
of the point at discretion, for the soundings are regular all round, decreasing gradually
to 4 fathoms : there is a landing place at the point. Pulo Dattoo is a high island,
bearing W. by S. ^ S., about 9 leagues from Mampava Road, and several islands front
the coast to Battooblat Hill and Point ; the Point is nearly mid-way betwixt Mam-
pava Point and Sambas River. These islands are safe to approach, with a channel of
6 to 8 fathoms inside of them ; but the Boorong group, contiguous to Battooblat
Point and Tanjong Moora, being formed of isles near to each other, large ships usually
pass outside the outermost one, called Lamookatan, or Great Boorong ; although there
is a safe passage inside this island between it and those contiguous to the coast, where
a ship may save time by working through it with a contrary wind, when the current is
runnino- strong against her outside the islands.
In Mampava Road the tides run about 2 miles per hour, nearly E. S. E. and
opposite.
PONTIANA, or LEWA RIVER (the entrance), in lat. 0° 2' N., Ion. 109° 12' E., Pomiana
is about 7 leagues S.S. E. of Mampava Point, the coast between them forming a bay. '^"'^'^'
The anchorage in the road is in from 3^ to 5i fathoms, with the river's mouth bearing
E. bv S. 1 S. or E. S. E., Pulo Datto W. i N. or W. ^ N., and the extremes of Borneo
from'S. i E. to N. N.W. ^ W., off-shore about 4 or 5 miles. The Princess Charlotte
of Wales, June 1st, 181.3, anchored in 5i fathoms, with the extremes of the land bear-
ing from N. N. E. to S. by W., the entrance of the river E. N. E., oft" shore 5 or
miles, observed lat. 0° 1' N. A shoal mud-bank projects out a great way from the
mouth of the river, and although the bar is nearly dry at low water, there are 8 or
10 feet on it at high spring tides. The town is about 12 miles from the entrance,
and has a fort, and at Balu Lagong, about 7 miles up, there is a fort on each side with
14 or 15 heavy guns mounted. These two places are sometimes visited by the Bengal
traders : some bullocks and hogs may be procured here, and also at Mampava ; but
boats must go far up the river to procure fresh water during the dry season, which water and
makes watering at Pontiana River very inconvenient. supplies.
A remarkable phenomenon was experienced by Captain Pearson, of the brig Lady
of the Lake, in the months of May and June, while sailing along tlie coast on two
diflerent voyages; the following is an extract from his journal. "June 2ud, 1833, at
daylight, when sailing along the coast in 10 fathoms water, experienced a singular
incident ; fresh water on one side the vessel, and salt water on the other, whicii con-
tinued for an hour whilst sailing about 2 miles on the boundary line of salt and fresh
water. We filled all our empty casks with good drinkable water on one side of the
528
BORNEO, WEST COAST. — INNER CHANNEL.
Coast from
Poiitiana River
to the south-
ward.
vessel, when it was quite salt on the opposite side ; our then distance 2^ or 3 miles off
• shore, lat. 0° 8' S., with the appearance of the mouth of a great river abreast, which
must be navigable for large vessels, as the water deepened in crossing its direction."
This was probably Sanjavay River, one of the branches of Pontiana River, several of
which reach the sea between the equator and latitude 0° 20' S.
From Pontiana River the coast stretches South and S. by E. about 20 leagues to
Tanjong Factie or Fatteye, in about lat. 1° 15' S., and from hence it takes an easterly
direction 8 or 9 leagues, having a channel of from 3 to 4 fathoms between Tanjong
Fatteye and the large group of islets that front it. From this point numerous small
islands extend southward and S. Westward to Cariraata, which is distant from the
former 15 or 16 leagues. Between the group of islets nearest Tanjong Fatteye and
others to the southward there is a good channel, with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms water,
through which the fleet passed in 1811, when bound to the conquest of Java; and
nearer to Carimata there is another channel betwixt the small isles to the S. Eastward
of it, and betwixt other isles and Carimata. The Osterly went through this passage,
which was found very intricate, and in one part she had only 5 fathoms, rocky bottom,
betwixt the islands that lie directly East from Carimata. It is not advisable to pass
through the latter in a large ship. Captain Rempthorne, in H. M. brig Diana, carried
soundings mostly of 3 to 3f fathoms when rounding Tanjong Fatteye, in proceeding
along the coast by the inner passage. She had mostly light winds and southerly cur-
rents, and was from the 4th to the 23rd November, 1808, getting from lat. 4° S. to
Pontiana Road.
Siiccadana.
A caution.
Tanjong
Sambar.
SUCCADANA, in about lat. 1° 16' S., distant 7 or 8 leagues eastward of Tanjong
Fatteye, and situated on the east side the deep bay, inside that point, has good
anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms in the road, with a group of isles to the southward. This
place is also visited at times by the eastern traders from Bengal. Although at the
foregoing places it is not so dangerous to stop as at Borneo River, ships ought, ne-
vertheless, to be well prepared for defence, and the officers continually on the watch,
for they are liable to an attack.*
From Succadana, the coast extends South and S. by E. about 34 leagues to Tanjong
Sambar, in about lat. 2° 53' South ; this is the S.W. point of Borneo, and with part of
the circumjacent coast is low land. The coast between these places has seldom been
ap])roached under 10 or 12 fathoms, being fronted by islets or rocky ground in some
parts ; but the expedition against Java having proceeded along this part of the coast,
by a route previously little known, renders a description of it indispensable.
Inner
Channel.
Panumbangan
Islands.
THE INNER CHANNEL, among the islands which lie between the coast of
Borneo and Carimata, although narrow in some parts, has moderate depths, with
generally good anchorage, and seems preferable to the route West of Carimata and
Souroutou, for ships which have to work along the coast against the monsoon, whether
bound to the northward or southward.
Pulo Panumbangan, in lat. 1° 12' S., Ion. 109° 14'E.,by chronometers, extending
* Captain Sadler, of the ship Transfer, of Calcutta, was attacked in his boat and killed in Mampava River,
in consequence of the deceitful conduct of the Rajah of that place, who was indebted to that commander about
30,000 dollars for opium and piece-goods ; this Rajah also poisoned the master of a Chinese junk, to whom he
was indebted about 8,000 dollars. There are many Chinese settled at these places on the west coast of Borneo,
who, together with the Bugges, many of whom also reside here, are the only industrious inhabitants, the
Malays being very indolent and treacherous.
BORNEO, WEST COAST. 529
about 2 leagues E. N. E. and W. S.W., is liigli, and forms the north entrance of the
Inner Channel, and oft' its N.W. side, affords good anchorage from southerly winds
in 5| or G fathoms. Fresh Water Bay, at this part of the island, has two runs of good Watering
water, the westernmost of which is the largest, w here you fill the water beliind a large p''"^'"*-
black rock on the beach ; the boats may approach close, or the casks can be landed on
the beach, which consists of fine sand. Here, the fleet watered in July, 1811, when
bound to attack Java ; the William Pitt anchored in of fathoms, soft mud, June 30th,
with the Island Panumbangan bearing S. ^ E. to N. E., off'shore 1^ miles, and off" the
watering place 2 miles; the first and best watering place E. by S. ^ S., second water-
ing place S. E. by E., third watering place S. E., and Massa Teega Islands N. ^ E.
All these watering places are fronted by fine sandy beaches, and easily discerned :
there are spars fit for topmasts on the island, but the trees seem to be too heavy.
If bound to the southward through the Inner Channel, the Borneo coast may be Directions.
approached to 8 or 9 fathoms at discretion till near the three small isles Massa Teega,
in lat. 0° .55' S., distant about 2 leagues from the coast, and bearing North from Pa-
numbangan. In working, do not stand too far to the westward, on account of Greig
Shoal, but you may borrow towards the west part of Massa Teega to 8^ or 9 fathoms,
and oft' to 14 or 15 fathoms near the Lima Islands, which are a close group of small
isles, united by reefs, distant 7 or 8 leagues to the westward of Panumbangan. Pulo
Malapis, forming a group of three high islands, with some contiguous islets much far-
ther to the eastward, one of which is called Double Island, lies to the S.W. of Panum-
bangan ; Greig Channel, or the entrance of the Inner Channel, is formed between
these, by leaving to the northward Pulo Seery, a small isle oft" the west end of Panum-
bangan, and all the islets of the Malapis group must be left to the southward ; the course
in steering through is S. Easterly, and the depths from 12 to 18 fathoms, mostly hard
ground, wliich again becomes soft when through the cliannel. To the eastward of
Panumbangan there are 4 and 3^ fathoms, where small vessels may pass between it
and the coast of Borneo, in soft bottom and regular soundings ; here, in about lat.
1° 11' S., is Goonong Myang, a mountain at a small distance inland, with low land
fronting the sea, the south extreme of which, in about lat. 1°1G'S., forms Tanjong
Factie.
Having passed through the channel to the West of Panumbangan, the course is
south-easterly 5 or 6 leagues to Pulo Papan, leaving to the westward the two Pas- Puio Papan.
sage Islands, the soundings in this track being from 7 to 1 1 fathouis near the latter,
shoaling to 5 fathoms towards the Button, a small isle to the S. Eastward of Panum-
bangan, inside of which are 4 and 3^ fathoms.
Pulo Papan, in lat. 1° 28' S., forms two small groups, betwixt which is the Papan
Channel, about a mile wide, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water ; it is formed between the
west group and East Island, which is tiie largest island of the group, and has two islets
near its north side. The passage to the eastward of Pulo Papan is also safe, with 12
fathoms near the island, decreasing fast towards the coast.
After passing through the Papan Channel the course is S. S. Eastward, leaving to
the west Birdnest Islands,* and all others which lie to the East and S. E. of Carimata;
the fair track is between these and the coast of Borneo, and tl)o dejjth 9 to 12 fathoms
near the islands, decreasing, but not always regularly, towards tiie coast.
In proceeding along the coast, care must be taken not to approach it too close in the
night, for in lat. 2° 13' S. to 2° 16' S. lie the Minto Rocks, 4 or 5 niiles off'shore, some Minto u-K-ks
* Tlie Osterly passed through amonjj these, ami afterwards ne.nr the east side of Carimata ; but she found
that route very intricate, and had several times rocky bottom and very shoal water.
VOL. II. 3 Y
530
BORNEO, SOUTH-WEST COAST. — ISLANDS.
Rendezvous
Island.
Anchorage.
Tides.
Pulo Mancap.
of which are near tlie water's edge, with a sand to the S. Eastward. A hill on the
main, bearing E. O'^ N. from them, in lat. 2° 14' S., will be a guide in the day ; and far-
ther to the E. S. Eastward, in lat. 2° 22' S., is a high peak. About 5 or 6 leagues off
this part of the coast the depths are mostly from 14 to 17 fathoms, and from 9 to 1 1
fathoms about 4 miles outside Minto Rocks ; but if you haul in for Rendezvous Island,
tliey will decrease to 7, 6, or 5 fathoms near the reef that lines its western point, and
projects around it to the southward and eastward.
RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, in lat. 2° 44' S., Ion. 110° 3' E., its west point, or
1° 4' E. of Cirencester Sand Bank by chronometers,* extends about 5 leagues to the
north-eastward, and a chain of small islands and reefs nearly joins it to the main ; this
chain stretches also southward along the coast to Pulo Mancap, and is fronted with
shoal water. Captain Graham, of the William Pitt, could scarcely find a passage in
his cutter between Rendezvous Island and the main. About 4 leagues S. by W. from
the west point of the island lies a bank with 3 or 3| fathoms, which makes it proper,
in leaving the anchorage at the N.W. part of the island, to haul off to the south-west-
ward, to give a berth to this bank. When the fleet lay at Rendezvous Island in July,
land and sea breezes prevailed, the former at East and E. S. E., veering to S. S. E. in
a breeze ; the island shews in hummocks, but cannot be seen above 5 or 6 leagues, and
the west point forms in a bluff, when viewed from S.W. or southward.
The fleet, of about 40 sail, under Commodore Broughton, assembled at this island,
after having worked through the Inner Channel. The William Pitt anchored in 4f
fathoms, July 11th, 1811, off shore about 4 miles, west point of Rendezvous Island
bearing S. ^ W., its north point E. by N. ^ N., a small isle off this point E. by N. | N.,
another isle E. N. E., a third small isle, with trees on it, North, just visible from the
poop ; north extreme of the land of Borneo N. N. E. The first two isles are united
by a coral reef, which extends 2 miles N. N.W. from the second island, having near
its extremity a large rock 20 feet above water ; from this rock, in a N. E. direction,
there is another island, about 4 miles long, surrounded by coral reefs.
Although coral reefs, with sharp-pointed rocks visible at low water, project from
1 to 3 miles from most parts of Rendezvous Island, yet the western side, where the
fleet lay, appeared tolerably clear, with a sandy beach, where wells were dug above
high water mark, and aftbrded very good water. From the west point of the island,
the land forms an elbow, by which there is shelter from all winds, from the eastward,
with smooth water ; and the tides were found here to be more regular than at any
other part of the west coast of Borneo, the rise 8 or 9 feet. About 4 or 5 miles South
of the west point of the island lie three small isles, with coral reefs projecting to them;
other isles bear South from the point about 4 or o leagues, and they are all fronted by
shoal water, the depth being only 5 fathoms about 3i miles to the westward of the
west point of Rendezvous Island.
PULO MANCAP, MUNCOO,torMANKOKH,inlat.3°5'S.,lon. 110°]1'E.,
or 3° 18' E. of Edam Island, by the observations of Captain Ross, of the Discovery,
with good chronometers, is a small low island, which may be seen about 5 leagues from
the deck of a large ship, and is distant about 2^ leagues to the southward of Tanjong
Sambar: near it to the N. N. Eastward there is said to lie another small isle, which
* This longitude was settled by Captain Ross, in tlie Discovery, by excellent chronometers, but the obser-
vations of the fleet made it several miles more to the westward,
•f- It is said to be named from Muncoo, a cup or bowl.
BORNEO, SOUTH-WEST COAST. — SHOALS. 531
appeared to Captain Ross, when examining the surionnding shoal, as three bnshy islets
or rocks. Other islands front Tanjong Sarabar to the westward, extending in a north-
erly direction towards Rendezvous Island.
To the westward and south-westward Pulo Mancap may be approached to IG or 17 siioai Bank.
fathoms, at the distance of 4^ or 4 leagues, but not neaier ; for, with it bearing East,
distant 10 miles, the Discovery got suddenly into 4 and ;3| fathoms, hard sand, on the
shoal bank that encircles the island; when it bore J\.44^E., distant about 7 miles,
she had 3| fathoms, fine sand, and with it bearing N. N. E. ^]L. about 10 or 12 miles,
seen from the deck, she struck on the ground, though drawing little water, occasioned
by the swell. The island ought not to be brought to the northward of N. E. by N.
while in sight from the mast-head, for if it bear N. N. E. ^ E. about 6 leagues distant,
you will suddenly get into shoal water on some of the spits that stretch far to the
southward, having from 10 to 17 fathoms, soft bottom, near them.
MANCAP SHOAL is to the southward of the island of this name, at the distance wancap shoai.
of 6^ leagues ; its southern extremity is in lat. 3°22'S., by the Walpole's account,
■which ship grounded on it. This, however, is only the southern limit of the iimei- shoal,
from w hence other shoal banks, detached from each other, stretch S. S.W. and S. by W.
to lat. 3^ 40' or 3° 48' S., having large swatches or channels betwixt some of them,
through which several ships have passed.
The Bombay Castle, January 12th, 1794, with Pulo Mancap in sight from the mizen Mancap and
shrouds bearing N. N, E. ^ E., distant about 6 leagues, shoaled suddenly to 7 fathoms °^^^^ *''°*'*'
and anchored, a spit of shoal water bearing from S.W. to S. E. ^ S., about a mile distant,
on which the boats found 4f fathoms in some places, with overfalls and very irregular
depths to the distance of 3 miles S. E. and S. Westward. After weighing, she steered
between S. S.W. and S.W., crossed the spit in 5 fathoms, then deepened to 14 fathoms,
and shoaled again to 7 fathoms ; afterwards deepened gradually to 22 fathoms. Hav-
ing run about 5 miles from the place where she was at anchor, the appearance of a
shoal was seen about 2 miles off, very conspicuous, by broken water extending from
E. N. E. to E. by S. This was found to be in lat. 3° 26' S., by noon observation.
The Discovery, Captain Ross, May 20th, 1814, after striking on the inner shoal in
2| fathoms, with Pulo Mancap in sight from the deck bearing N. N. E^.\ E., distant
10 or 12 miles, steered South, and soon deepened into 10, 11, and 13 fathoms, mud,
and shoaled again to 6 fathoms, sand, which appeared to have less water on its western
part, Pulo Mancap then visible from the deck, bearing N. N. E. ^ E., distant about
12 miles. From hence, steering S. by W., soon deepened into a mud channel of 17
fathoms, shortly after shoaled suddenly to 5 fathoms, sand, on another long narrow
spit, extending W. N.W. and E. S. E., Pulo Mancap not visible from the deck ; when
over it, deepened to 15 fathoms, mud, and shortly after shoaled to 7 fathoms, sand, and
anchored, seeing breakers bearing S. 54° E., distant 2 miles. The boat passed over a
spit of 2J fathoms, about half-way between the ship and the breakers, close to which
there is \h fathoms water; this danger is in lat. 3^24'S., and 3^ miles West of tlie
meridian of Pulo Mancap, and appears to be the danger mentioned above, seen by the
Bombay Castle.
H. M. S. Fox, with a fleet in company, October .30th, 17.07, had 11 fathoms, soft mud,
at noon; shortly after, the water shoaled suddenly to 9 fathoms, and she immediately
grounded, but with some exertion was got ofl" shortly after. Captain Heywood, then
a lieutenant in the Fox, sounded in the cutter to tlie IS. Eastward and E. ]\. East-
ward, and had continued overfalls from 7 to 2 fathoms, steering in those directions, to
3 Y 2
632 CARIMATA PASSAGE.
the distance o( 2^ miles from the ship. That part of the shoal where the ship gTounded,
from noon observation, was found to be in lat. 3° 32' S., Ion. 110° 4' E., by clironorae-
ter from Malacca; or S. 13° W., 11 or 12 miles distant from the svpposed southern
ver^e of Mancap Shoal. When in lat. 3° 36' S., she steered £. S. Eastward, and had
no less than 19 or 20 fathoms water.
The Princess Amelia, Walmer Castle, Hope, and Taunton Castle, in company, at
liV P.M. November 15th, 1811, were steering S. E. by E., with the wind at S.VV.,
s(iually and rain, in 20 fathoms water, when breakers were seen to leeward ; the Hope
shoaled to 15 fathoms and tacked, but the Princess Amelia, missing stays, was obliged
to anchor immediately in 19 fathoms, with the breakers to leeward, bearing from N.W.,
round by the eastward to S. S. ^ E., distant about half a mile, and the Walmer Castle
anchored near her. By mean of their noon observations and chronometers, this dan-
gerous shoal is situated in lat. 3°31,y S., Ion. 110°4'E., and must be that on which the
Fox grounded, although no breakers were then visible, probably occasioned by the tide
being high at that time, with a smooth sea; whereas a heavy swell prevailed when
the above-mentioned ships got embarrassed with the shoal.
These outer shoals oft" Pulo Mancap bound the southern part of the Carimata Pas-
sage to the eastward ; betwixt which and the eastern Discovery bank, which seems
to be the nearest danger on its western side, the channel is 17 or 18 leagues wide.
The True Briton, with other ships in company, December 31st, 1801, steering east-
ward to round Mancap Shoal, got suddenly into 0|; fathoms, red clay and mud, in lat.
3°30'S., by double altitudes. Ion. 110° 5' E., or 1°23' E. from the west endof Sourou-
tou by chronometer. The Asia found a channel through one of the swatches between
the banks, but the True Briton steered to the southward on the west side of them;
when abreast the knowl, in about lat. 3° 40' S., which is the southernmost patch of
Mancap Shoals, the depth decreased in 3 casts from 18 to 10 fathoms, in edging away
S. E. towards its western edge.
Betwixt this southernmost patch and that on which the Fox grounded there is a
good channel, by keeping in lat. 3° 36' to 3° 42' S. ; but when the latitude is not cor-
rectly known by observation, it is advisable to pass round to the southward of them in
about lat. 3° 49' or 3° 50' E. Although the bottom near and among these shoals is
generally a mixture of red and green clay, with mud ; yet the soundings are very irre-
gular, with overfalls, making it prudent not to come under 15 or 16 fathoms towards
them.
CARIMATA PASSAGE, AND SOUTH COAST OF BORNEO,
WITH BRIEF DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING TOWARDS
THE STRAITS EAST OF JAVA.
Carimata THE CARIMATA PASSAGE, or OUTER CHANNEL, called also the Strait
Passage. ^f BiLLiTON, is boundcd on the east side by Carimata, Souroutou, and the other
islands adjacent to the S.W. part of Borneo; and on the west side by the island
Billiton, with its adjoining isles and dangers. Ships from Malacca Strait, when bound
CARIMATA PASSAGE. 533
by the eastern passage to China, or to the Molucca Islands, generally proceed through
tlie Carimata Passage after October, when the North-west Monsoon prevails to the
southward of the equator.
This passage has been also frequented at various times by ships bound from China
to Europe during war: there appear notwithstanding to be several dangers nearly in
the track followed by those ships, rendering great circumspection indispensable ; but
the dangers which bound this passage on each side having been correctly ascertained
by Captains Ross and Maughan, of the Bombay marine, it may now be navigated with
much greater safety than formerly.
Ships proceeding from China towards the Carimata Passage in the North-east Mon-
soon should endeavour to see the east side of the Grand Natuna, giving it a beith of
6, 7, or 8 leagues ; having passed it, they should steer about S. by W. to clear tlie South
Natunas, leaving them to the eastward ; then a S. ^ W. course w ill carry them fair
towards Direction Island. If they pass outside of it, after giving a berth to Welstead
Rock, a S. :| E. course from thence will bring them in sight of Carimata, bearing about
S. E. ; but it is prudent to keep well out to the westward until Carimata bear E. by
S. or East, to avoid the following danger.
GREIG SHOAL was discovered by Captain William Greig, of the ship Lord creig shoai.
Minto, in 1809; he gives the following description of it.
" This dangerous shoal we got upon at noon, 9th June last, and found it to extend
from lat. 0° 52' S. to lat. 0° 58' S. ; although there is deep water within this extent, I
think it ought to be considered as one shoal. On both extremes of it we were often
in nearly the same depth of water as the vessel drew, which was 13 feet, and this was
in steering through between much shoaler spots, with the body of Carimata then seen
from the deck, bearing between S. S. E. | E. and S, E. by S. ; the shoal bears nearly
N. ^ W. from the west point of Souroutou."
This may probably be the shoal which the ship General Wellesley struck upon, as
cloudy weather prevented her from determining its situation, but she places it in about
lat. 1=" 19' S., to the northward of Souroutou. The journal states: " At a.m. Carimata
bore East 6 or 8 leagues ; steering to the northward, struck on a reef at 10 a.m., and
passed between the rocks, some of which are 4, 5, and 6 feet under water ; hauled off
N. N.W. and soon deepened to 12 and 13 fathoms. Near noon, passed over a bank
of sand, with (J fathoms water on it ; but the weather being cloudy, got no observation,
nor could any land be seen."
SHIPS coming from Singapore Strait should steer from Pedra Branca E. by S. 9or Directions.
10 leagues if tiie wind permit, and E. S. E. about 8 or 9 leagues more, to give a
berth to the Dogger Banks : afterwards they should pass to the southward of the
Island St. Barbe,"and from tiience steer for Souroutou; but with West or S.W.
winds they may round the north part of Billiton at a moderate distance, then pass
to the southward of the Ontario Shoal, giving a berth afterwards to the Montaran
Islands.
CARIMATA, or KRAMATA. is a high island, about 3^ leagues in extent ; the Carimata
peak or most elevated hill, being about 2,000 feet high, may be seen at the distance of
15 or HJ leagues, and is in lat. 1° 36i' S., Ion. 108° 54^' E. ; the N.W. end of the
island is in lat. 1° 3.3' S., Ion. 108° 49' E. by chronometers. About 4^ or 5 leagues
distant, bearing North from the northern side of this island, there is a group of islets.
534
CARIMATA PASSAGE.
called Lima Isles, with soundings of 12 to 14 fathoms near them, which are the outer-
most of those small islands that stretch from Carimata towards the Borneo Shore.
soiiioutou. SOUROUTOU ISLAND, lying- offtheS.W. part of Carimata, and separated from
it by a narrow channel, is little more than half the height, and much smaller than
Carimata, but may be seen 9 or 10 leagues. The west end is in lat. 1° 42' S., Ion.
108° 4]^' E.,* by mean of chronometers from Malacca and from the Grand Ladrone;
at a sandy beach on the south side the island, and near the east point, there is a good
Frisii water. Watering place, but high water is required for a large boat to get over a reef, near to
which you may anchor in 7 fathoms, mud. Fresh water, it is said, can only be got at
the west end of the island, at the foot of a hill of moderate height, where a ship may
anchor in 10 fathoms. At the west point of Souroutou there is a hummock, which
has been mistaken for a small island, and called the Quoin from its appearance, but
no isle exists here. About 2 or 3 miles off the west end of Souroutou the depths are
10 and 17 fathoms. The ship Aurora, November 11th, 1816, is said to have seen
breakers from the mast-head, bearing S. by W. ^ W., distant about 3 miles, when the
eastern extremity of Souroutou bore E. by N. ^ N., the other extreme being obscured
by clouds, as the weather was then squally.
Ontario Shoal. ONTARIO SHOAL, on which the American ship of that name, Captain J. Whetton,
was wrecked, January 4th, 1797, is very dangerous, lying in the direct track for merit/
recommended to ships when passing between Souroutou and Billiton. It extends
W. N.W. and E. S. E. about half a mile, and is composed of sharp spiral rocks, with
the tops of some of them dry at low water spring tides ; but the small break against
their sharp points cannot be distinguished from the topping of a common sea ; and the
shoal is steep to, having 18 and 19 fathoms at a ship's length from the rocks. From
the Ontario's wreck, the N.E. end of the Quoin was just shut in with the west end of
Souroutou ; the east end of Souroutou N. N. E. open about a quarter of a point from
the west end of Carimata, and distant about 6^ leagues. Since the Ontario was
wrecked on this shoal, the Duke of Clarence and Cirencester have struck on it, and
the Coromandel has been wrecked on the same shoal.
The Cirencester grounded on this shoal near midnight, November 9th, 1810, and by
carrying out the stream anchor she hove off it at 6 a.m. ; that part where the ship
grounded was found to stretch W. N.W., and E. S. E. about 3 cables' lengths, its
eastern side taking a sharp bend round to the southward and S. Westward ; and no part
of the shoal was visible until close to it, except on a patch at the southern extremity,
the sea was a little discoloured by the rocks being near the surface. The soundings
are no guide in the approach to this dangerous shoal, there being 23 and 24
fathoms close to it on the north and east sides, from 18 to 25 fathoms nearly close
to tlie rocks on the west side, and 25 fathoms, clay, at the distance of a cable's
length.
The boats found irregular depths on the reefs of 5 and 6 fathoms to 12 feet. When
the ship was upon it, the west end of Souroutou, or outer extreme of the land, bore
N. i E., a small island in the middle of the opening between Carimata and Souroutou
N. N. E. i E., the peak or highest part of Carimata N. E. f E., observed lat. 2° 2' S.
This shoal was examined by Captain Ross, in the Company's surveying ship Dis-
* Captain Ross made it in Ion. 108° 40.V E. by mean of chronometers from Batavia, and from the North
Natuna, corresponding with each other within half a milcj which is probably nearest the truth.
CARIMATA PASSAGE. 535
covery, who found it half a mile in extent W. N.W. and E. S. E. ; the boat had
1^ fathoms in sounding on it about high water, and in many places the depth appeared
to be less. He made the shoal in lat. 2° 1' 15" S., Ion. 108° 39:|' E. ; when at anchor
in 21 fathoms, on a mud bottom, with the shoal bearing W. by S., distant one mile,
the west point of Souroutou bore N. 4° 45' E., altitude of the highest part of the
island 39' 3(i'', east end of Souroutou N. 24° 3' E., the highest knd of Carimata
N. 32° 15' E. ; one of the Montaran Islands, visible from the main-top, bore S. 6^° W.,
and the shoal is 19^ miles distant from Souroutou Island.
There may probably be another danger, detached a little way from the Ontario
Shoal; for Lieutenant Davidson, of the brig Waller, on his passage from Malacca to
Amboina in April, 1803, saw two shoals. The first was probably the Ontario, which
appeared about half a cable's length each way, nearly even with the water's edge,
steep to, with a small breaker on its centre. The Waller had 24 fathoms, soft ground,
when passing abreast the shoal within a quarter of a mile distance, at 1 p.m., April
18th ; when in one with the south point of Carimata it bore N. E. | N., theN. Western-
most part of Souroutou, then in sight, bearing N. ^ E., distant about 5 leagues. About
a mile to the S. Eastward of this shoal a small breaker was perceived on another
shoal, which must either be the southern extremity of the Ontario Reef, or a rocky
patch separated a little way from it : but circumstances prevented Lieutenant Davidson
from sending a boat to examine them.
THE CIRENCESTER SHOAL is in lat. 2° 54i'S., Ion. 108° 58^ E., or 2f miles Cirencester
West of the Cirencester Sand Bank, by the chronometers and observations of Captains ^^°^^'
Ross and Maughan, who examined it May 14th, 1814, with the surveying ships Dis-
covery and Investigator; they found it to bear from the easternmost Montaran Island
S. 15° E., distant 25 miles : the least depth found on it was 2 fothoms at low water,
and there is probably 3i^ fathoms on it at high water; close around the soundings
were 17, 16, and 15 fathoms. The shoal is narrow, and not more than 100 yards in
length North and South ; it was not discovered by the boats sounding for it, until the
rocks were seen under the bottom.
This shoal was first seen by Captain Halkett, in the Cirencester, November 13th,
1810, when working to the southward with light S. E. winds, and it was perceived by
a strong rippling ; the boat was sent to sound the place, and found only 2 fathoms
water, part of Billiton, or else one of the Montaran Islands, being then in sight from
the mast-head, bearing about N.W. by W.
CIRENCESTER SAND-BANK, in lat. 3° 17' S., Ion. 109° 4' 54" E., by an Cirencester
observation of Jupiter's first satellite, taken by Captain Ross on the bank, and in Ion. s^"^-''*"'*-
109° 1^ E. by chronometers, bears from the easternmost Montaran Island S. 1 H° E.,
distant 46| miles. It is about a third of a mile in extent N, N.W. and S. S. E., and
not above 100 yards in breadth, part of it being a bank of white coral, overflowed in the
middle at high tide, which then gives it the appearance of two small sandy patches, the
larger being to the southward. The depth of water increases towards this bank, there
being 25 fathoms close off the north end, 32 fathoms off the south point, and 35
fathoms about tiiree-quarters of a mile to the westward : with a good look-out it may
be seen from the mast-head about 8 miles at low water, but probably not above 3 or
4 miles at high tide.
The Cirencester saw this sand-bank on the same day that she discovered the shoal
described above, and about 2 miles to the eastward of it had very irregular soundings,
536
CARIMATA PASSAGE.
from 10 to 20 fathoms, changing almost at every cast of the lead. "When Captain Ross
examined this bank, May 11th, 1814, he found two spars erected on it, probably
placed tliere by some persons who had been shipwrecked. The ship Samdany, June
16th, 1812, passed within a mile of the west side of this sand-bank, and deepened
from 14 to 17 fathoms as it was approached, steering S.W. ; this ship made it in Ion.
10i)° 10' £., and agrees with the Cirencester and Captain Ross in making its lat.
3° 17' S.
Lavender
Shoal.
LAVENDER SHOAL, discovered May 17th, 1830, by Captain T. Lavender, of
the ship Roman, bound from Canton to New York, who passed it at 2 p.m., bearing
East about a quarter of a mile distant, in soundings from 20 to 26 fathoms. It extends
North and South about three-quarters of a mile, but is not more than 200 yards in
breadth, having breakers along the eastern side, where the depth did not appear to
exceed 2 feet. When the Cirencester Sand Bank was seen from the fore-yard bearing
about N. by W. to N. by W. ^ W., the shoal bore S. by VV. 2 or 3 miles ; it is in laf.
3° 251' S.
Ion. 109° 2' E.
Discovery
Sand-bank.
DISCOVERY EASTERN BANK, in lat. 3° 32' 40^ S., Ion. 109° 9' 43" E., or
2° 26' ^ E. from the South Watcher by chronometers, measured by Captain Ross, in
the Company's surveying ship Discovery, February 14th, 1813, is probably the sand
called Enk-huyzer, in Van Keulen's chart ; and it was, perhaps, here that the Forbes
privateer and her Dutch prize was wrecked, on the night of the 11th of September, 1806.
This bank extends about half a mile North and South, elevated in the centre about 15
or 20 feet above low water mark ; it has some coarse grass growing on it, and two small
trees, destitute of leaves, appeared at a distance like two black rocks on a white sand.
The whole of the bank consists of small white coral, which may easily be mis-
taken for sand ; the Discovery, at anchor about half a mile to the eastward of it, had
20 fathoms water, and about 5 miles East of it, 25 to 29 fathoms. This danger is no
doubt that formerly called St. Clement Shoal, but its situation was not known within
30 miles of latitude.
Discovery
Western Banli.
Discovery
Reef.
Shoe Island.
DISCOVERY WESTERN BANK, in lat. .3° 39' S., Ion. 108° 4.3' E., or 1° 59i'
East of the South Watcher, by chronometer, was found to be a coral bank, extending
North and South about a mile, elevated about 15 feet in the centre at low water, but
the boat could not land, it being surrounded by a coral reef, on which the surf
broke high. About a mile to the eastward of this bank the Discovery anchored in
20 fathoms, soft mud, February 13th, 1813, and to the northward and westward of it
the depths were 16 and 17 fathoms.
DISCOVERY REEF, in lat. 3° 361' S., Ion. 108° 48' E., distant about 6 miles
N. E. by E. from the last-mentioned bank, was found not to be a mile in extent, with
a few rocks above water, and high breakers projecting around them. The Discovery
passed about a mile to the southward of this reef in 19 fathoms water, and when it
bore North at the distance of a mile, the Western Bank was just in sight from the
main-top-gallant-yard, bearing W. S.W.
SHOE ISLAND, or PYRAMID, in lat. 3° 47i' S., Ion. 108° 2' E., or 1° 26V East
of the South Watcher by the Discovery's chronometers, lies to the southward of Bil-
liton, and 14 leagues to the westward of the last-mentioned shoals; and the soundings
CARIMATA PASSAGE. 537
between them are generally from 13 to 17 fathoms. It maybe seen 6 or 7 leagues
from a ship's deck in clear weatlier ; about a mile to the southward of it lies a large
white rock,* with soundings of 10 fathoms at a small distance to the S. S. West- white Rock.
ward ; and the soundings from hence to the North Watcher are generally from 12 to
16 fathoms.
GRACE SHOALS, discovered by the Dutch ship Grace, D. Allen commander, Grace shoais.
July 22nd, 1»29, proceeding from Benjar Masseen River towards Gaspar Strait,
Manila, and China, are situated near the south coast of Billiton, and appeared to be
very dangerous, more particularly as they were not previously known. At daylight
Shoe Island bore W. S.W. about 4 leagues, steered West, and at 8 a.m., when Shoe
Island bore S. S.W. , distant about 3^ miles, breakers were seen bearing N. E. by N.,
distant one mile, with some black rocks a little above water ; at the same time other
breakers bore S. S.W. about three-quarters of a mile, and the soundings were 11 and
11^ fathoms, sand and mud, in passing between these dangers, which probably extend
in patches all the way out from the coast of Billiton. A ship ought, therefore, never
to attempt this passage inside Shoe Island, except in very clear and favourable
weather.
HEROINE SHOAL, near the south coast of Billiton, discovered by the ship of Heroine
this name, June 14th, 1829, appeared extensive, with breakers on it, which were passed ^''°^'-
about 11 miles. At 6 a.m., Two-Peaked Mountain, on Billiton, bore N. N.W., a small
island N. E. by E. ^ E., Siioe Island seen from the mizen slirouds S. E. ; from this
station steered S.W. 4 miles, and S. S.W. miles, when breakers were seen bearing
S. E., distant 1^ miles, and stretching about N. E. and S.W. At noon the observed
lat. 3° 31^' S., Ion. 107° 53' E., the shoal in sight from the mast-head bearing about
East. June 15th, at noon, observed lat. 3° 32' S. when passing the southernmost patch
of sand to the S.W. of Shoalwater Island at half a mile distance.
The shoals which lie on the west side the Carimata Passage, having hitherto been a caution.
little known, have occasioned the loss of five or six ships since the Ontario was
wrecked, but their positions being now well ascertained, they may be easily avoided ;
indeed, all sliips should give them a wide berth in the night particularly, by borrow-
ing over towards the coast of Borneo, on the east side of the channel.
'&
BILLITON ISLAND is fronted on the east side by several groups of small Biiiiton island,
islands, exclusive of those before mentioned. They extend nearly N. N. W. and a",^ 'dL'ngers to
S. S. E. about 10 or 11 leagues, and most of them are surrounded with or connected the Eastward.
by rocks, sands, and shoals. There is a large range of these islands, in about lat.
3° 8' S., through which the Warren Hastings passed, betwixt a loui;- island to the
East and a small round one to the West, having extensive reefs projecting from them.
The soundings were pretty regular in the channel betwixt the reefs, decreasing to
6 and 5^ fathoms on the west side, and increasing to 13 fatlioms abreast the reef that
projects from the easternmost island. Inhere are nine islands to the eastward of this
passage, and a greater number on the west side, to\\ards Billiton.
The south end of the Island Billiton is in about lat. 3° 22' S., to the S. Eastward of
which the southern extremity of the chain of isles and reefs terminates at the distance
* Shoe Island and its adjoining white rocks are the Bird Island and White Rock, which -were formerly
thought to lie much farther to llie eastward.
VOL. 11. 3 z
538
CARIMATA PASSAGE. — MONTARAN ISLANDS.
of about 9 or 10 leagues from Billiton ; consisting mostly of dangerous reefs, with
irregular soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms near them. In May the Warren Hastings
Tides. found regular tides off the south part of Billiton, setting nearly East and West from
1| to 2 miles per hour ; she passed between the S. £. end of that island and the reefs
in the offing, saw breakers on one of them bearing East, l^ miles distant, then in lat.
3° 36' S. by observation, with Billiton bearing from N. by E. i E. to N. by W..
distant 5 or 6 leagues, and a small isle in sight from the mast-head E. S. Eastward.
Besides the shoals in the offing, examined by Captain Ross, there are other shoals
nearer to the east coast of Billiton, and in the vicinity of the Montaran Islands, seen
both by him and other navigators.
Osterly Noitli
Shoals.
Schaivogel
Islands.
OSTERLY NORTH SHOALS. One ofthese in lat. 3° W S., Ion. 108° 40i' E., or
18 miles West of Cirencester Shoal by chronometers, was found to be a coral bank
about H or 2 cables in extent, and very narrow, having a small patch of dry coral on
its southern part. The Discovery anchored in 11 fathoms, soft ground, and had this
shoal bearing East 2 miles, when the boat had from 5 to 7 fathoms rocks on another
shoal, bearing S. 6° W. from the ship about a quarter of a mile, and breakers were
seen from the mast-head bearing S. S. E., distant about 4 miles upon a third shoal,
under which 18 proas were at anchor, and many eddies were seen around : extremes
of the group of Scharvogel Islands then bearing from W. 15^° S. to W. 15° N., the
nearest island distant about 8 miles, and a high distant hill W, 45° N., observed lat.
3° 19' 5'" S.
Montaran
Islands.
N. Western-
most, or High
Saddle Island.
Contiguous
isles and
dangers.
Southern
group.
THE MONTARAN ISLANDS, lying off the N. E. part of Billiton, consist of
three straggling groups : Toekoekemou, the N. Westernmost, lies nearest the
N. E. point of Billiton, and appears as two islands till within 3 leagues of it. This
highest of the Montaran Islands, by the observations of Captain Ross, is in lat.
2° 31' S., Ion. 108° 36i' E., bearing from the west end of Souroutou S. 6° W., distant
48 miles, and he made it 1° 22^' E. of the Island St. Barbe by chronometers. It has a
high hill on each extreme, and, being low in the middle, appears like two small islands
when viewed at a considerable distance; but it cannot be mistaken when you ai'e 5 or
6 leagues to the northward, as none of the low islands near it are seen at that distance.
Close to the north point of this High Saddle Island lies an islet covered with bushes,
and they are united by a reef which extends about 1| miles to the northward : a reef pro-
jects also from the south point of the island about half a mile ; and a small round island
with a white beach, surrounded by a reef, lies about a mile to the westward of the High
Saddle Island ; and S. by E. from it about 2^ miles there are three low islands, with
apparently much broken water about them, and a dry sand-bank about 2 miles to the
westward : there is also a high white sand-bank about 4 miles S. Eastward of the three
last-mentioned islands.
About half-way between the High Saddle Island and the westernmost island in the
next group to the eastward, lies a dangerous reef of rocks, very little above water,
which appeared very shoal near the islands : another reef with a small white bank on
it lies about W. by S. from the Eastern Montaran Island, and E. 00° N. from the low
flat island of the middle group. All this part adjacent to these islands seems dangerous,
and a ship should not borrow nearer than to bring the High Saddle Island W. ^ S., or
she may get into shoal water. The southernmost group of these islands is in about
lat. 2°35'S., and when approached in September, 1809, by the Fox frigate, it appeared
CARIMATA PASSAGE. — MONTARAN ISLANDS. 539
to be inhabited, and the water very shoal around,* for the Malays were observed push-
ing a boat with poles, although 3 miles off the islands ; other boats were also seen,
with people upon the shore.
East Montaran Island, in lat. 2° 30f' S., Ion. 108°51|'E., by the observations of Easternmost
Captain Ross, and bearing from the west end of Souroutou S. 13° E., distant 50 miles, j',""^^'"^"
is about a third of a mile in extent North and South, and surrounded with a high
sandy beach, as is lilcewise the next adjoining small island. An officer from the Dis-
covery landed on the easternmost island, where he observed the latitude, and took the
following bearings. Carimata from ]\. 2^° E. to N. 5° E., the peak N. 3:|° E ; a Sand sand-bank
Bank S. 04:7° E., which is about 3 or 4 miles distant from the island; the small, and seen by the
nearest island S. 25i°W.; the two hills on the High Saddle Island W. U° S., and ^"'°""^-
W. 4^° S. ; extremes of the easternmost island of the next group from S. 39^° W. to
S. 42° W. ; and two small distant hills S. 63i° W., and S. 05^° W., supposed to be on Bil-
liton. The above bearing of Carimata Peak makes the easternmost Montaran Island
3^ miles West of that peak, or in Ion. 108° 51^' E., corresponding very nearly with the
chronometers.
The dangers near East Island seem, as yet, to be but imperfectly known ; the ship Catherine
Catherine, Captain Evans, was lost on a ledge of rocks to the eastward of the island, ^"^"
of whicli he gives the following account: — " At2h. ]5m. p.m. (Dec. 17, 1840) struck
on a ledge of rocks, with East Island bearing W. ^ N., and Carimata Peak N.4°W.,
distant from East Island 8 miles. This reef, which is formed of sharp coral rocks,
extends JN'.W. and S. E. a cable's length, and the least water found on it was 2
fathoms. While aground, soundings were obtained in different directions ; there were
4, 5, 7, and 9 fathoms about a hundred yards N.W. of the ship, and to the S. East-
ward, a little less than a cable distant, no bottom with 20 fathoms; at half a cable, 9
fathoms, and a boat's length nearer the ship, 2f fathoms. Though a strong current was
setting to the southward, there was no appearance of broken or discoloured water, nor
any indication which would cause a careful navigator to apprehend danger." Capt.
Evans places the reef in lat. 2°31'S., Ion. 108°59'E.
The ship Justina, of Batavia, belonging to Messrs. McLean, Watson, & Co., having
been despatclied to the wreck of the Catherine, came to an anchor about 2 miles to the
westward of her, in 18 fathoms, with the centre of East Montaran Island W. f N. 6
miles, and a shoal W. by S. 2 miles. This shoal, from its position, must have been
the Sand Bank mentioned above, as seen by the officer of the Discovery ; it was
examined by one of the Justina's boats. About 1 00 yards all round the shoal, the depths
were from 10 to 18 fathoms, shoaling suddenly towards it; the boat went over it, and
had very irregular soundings, from 4 feet to 5 fathoms, and in the centre of the shoal
there was a coral rock 3 feet above water. Shoal water was observed to extend about
1^ miles W. N.W. and E. S. E.
Betwixt two of the groups of the Montaran Islands, the Warren Hastings, of Cal- a passage be-
cutta, found a safe passage in 1789, and had soundings from 17 to 26 fathoms: when |i"e""oups."
the extremes of the islands bore from E. ^ N. to S.AV. by W., distant from the nearest
4 or 5 miles, a long reef of sand and breakers bore from N.W. to W . S.W . about three-
quarters of a mile, near to w hich she had anchored in 7 fathoms in the night.
* It .ippears to have been upon one of the reefs off these islands that the Abercrombie was lost, July 26th,
1812, ,1 fine ship of 1,200 tons Inivtkn, belonging: to Bombay, on her first voyage to China. She was steering
N.W. by N. in the night, among the clangers that lie off" the east coast of Billiton, althongh land was seen bear-
ing N.W. at 3 A.iM., and at 5 a.m. she struck on a reef with rocks dry on it, extending about a mile to the
N. Westward, which the journal states to be in lat. 2° 29' S., the centre of Billiton bearing S.W. by S.
3 z 2
540
CARIMATA PASSAGE. — CURRENTS.
Currents or
tides in the
Carimata
Passage.
Directions for
sailing through
the Carimata
Passage.
Directions for
passing inside
the Ontario
Shoal, and past
Mancap Shoals.
THE CURRENTS in the Carimata Passage appear to set mostly to the south-
ward in the northerly monsoon, for many ships have found it almost impracticable to
beat to the northward in that season ; and these southerly currents also prevail to the
westward of Billiton. The Grenville was nearly six weeks in February and March,
1815, getting through Caspar Straits to the northward, and Captain Ross, of the Dis-
covery, found a constant southerly current in the Carimata Passage in 1813; on Feb-
ruary 15th, he was ofl' Pulo Mancap, and from hence continued beating along the
west coast of Borneo, and afterwards on the south and west sides of Carimata and its
adjacent islands, until March 16th, when he got round the west end of Souroutou.
In the southerly monsoon, it does not appear to be so difficult to get to the south-
ward, for there are regular tides along the west coast of Borneo, and also off tiie east
coast of Billiton in this season, which seem to extend in some degree across the Ca-
rimata Pa.ssage, the flood apparently setting 12 hours to N. Westward, and the ebb
about 12 hours in the opposite direction; the rise of tide about 9 or 10 feet on the
ground, at full and change of moon, experienced by Captain Ross, in May, 1814.
The Snow Luconia left Mampava May 1 4th, 1776, passed to the West of Souroutou,
anchoring when the current or tide was unfavourable, the wind generally from South
to S. E. ; June 6th, she passed a shoal above water, in about lat. 3° 25' S., bearing East
3 miles, then in 21 fathoms, fine sand, probably the Discovery eastern bank, and June
9th, she arrived at Batavia.
If coming from the N.W. towards the Carimata Passage, and having approached
Souroutou, pass the latter at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues, if you intend to pass out-
side of the Ontario Shoal. Having brought Souroutou to bear N. E., steer S. E. by S.
and S. S. E., to give a berth to the Ontario Shoal ; and keep the west end of Souroutou
to the eastward of N. | E., until past it, or 8^ leagues to the South of Souroutou ; or
sink the west end of this island from the deck of a large ship bearing about N. by E, ;
continuing this course, you will see the Montaran Islands if the weather is favourable;
pass to the eastward of them at o or 6 leagues' distance. From this situation, a S. E.
by S. course continued, will lead in the fair track, betwixt the Cirencester and Disco-
very Shoals on the west side the channel, and those shoals on the east side which
extend S. S.W. from Pulo Mancap : you ought not, in this track, to borrow under 15^
or 16 fathoms towards the Mancap Shoals, nor deepen above 20 fathoms towards the
dangers on the west side of the channel, although the soundings are irregular, and not
a sufficient guide in some parts of the passage. If not certain of the longitude, the best
guide is to borrow towai'ds the coast of Borneo, to get a sight of the land, if circum-
stances admit, and after passing Rendezvous Island, haul out to the S. Westward to
avoid the Mancap Shoals.
But the best track for ships bound to the southward, particularly in cloudy weather,
is to pass inside the Ontario Shoal, by keeping within 3 or 4 leagues of Souroutou, until
Its western extremity is brought to bear N.
^ W. or N.
2 " •
then observing to keep
it to the westward of N. ^ W., in steering to the S. S. Eastward, until you have passed
the shoal. In proceeding to the southward, borrow towards the eastern side of the
passage, where the soundings will generally be from 17 to 14 fathoms within from 10
to 7 leagues of the coast of Borneo, deepening in some places as you approach the
shoals on the west side of the passage, but not always a certain guide ; and when to
the southward of Rendezvous Island, the depths will increase to 19, 20, or 21 fathoms
irregular soundings, when about 10 or 11 leagues to the S. Westward of Pulo Mancap,
which is as near as any large ship ought to approach the shoals, that extend far out
from it in this direction, already described above.
Java.
FROM MANCAP SHOALS TOWARDS THE STRAITS EAST OF JAVA. 541
HAVING PASSED THE MANCAP SHOALS and reached about lat. 3° 50' S., Passagetothe
in soundings not less than 19 or 20 fathoms, a S. E. course may be steered to pass to ^"''''s East of
the westward of Lubec, if bound through any of the straits East of Java ; as the wind
prevailing sometimes at W. S.W. renders it necessary to approach the coast of
Madura, to be enabled to round its eastern extremity, and proceed to the southward
betwixt the islands Pondy and Gallon. When through this passage, either of the
adjacent straits may be chosen. Bally Strait, being narrow at the nortliern part, with-
out safe anchorage, is seldom used. Although Lombock Strait is wider, the current
runs generally strong through it to the northward, making the passage by it sometimes
tedious ami difficult. The Brunswick, Minerva, and Chesterfield were from the loth
to the 30th January, 1794, beating in this strait, and drifted about by the currents,
before they cleared Banditti Island ; tiieir people were also fatigued, and their sails
beat to pieces by the squally weather. The Bellona in company, not sailing so well
as those ships, could not get through ; she therefore bore away, passed round the north
end of Lombock, and without any difficulty, proceeded to the southward through
Allass Strait. This strait should be chosen in the North-west Monsoon, by ships which
have proceeded through the Carimata Passage, and are bound out into the open sea
by any of the straits near the east end of Java.
When bound towards the strait of Macassar, and being in about lat. 3° 50' S., clear Tosaiifrom
to the southward of the extremity of Mancap Shoals, an E. by S. course will lead you foSJ^Ir''
along the south coast of Borneo, at a moderate distance from it, in soundings of 18 or strait of Ma-
19, to 25 fathoms; do not approach it under these depths, until soundings of 12, 14, '^^^'''"^
or 15 fathoms are got on the bank off Point Salatan.
POINT SALATAN, described in the next chapter, bears E. ^ S. from the soutiiern Point saiatan.
extremity of Mancap Shoals, distant 92 leagues; and nearly mid-way between them south coast of
lies Flat Point, in lat. 3° 31' S., which, with some other parts of the coast, may, with °""^°'
caution, be occasionally approached to 8 or 10 fathoms in working. This coast is in-
dented by several bays, fronted in most places by a bank of sand ; the great bay to the
westward of Point Salatan is occupied by a remarkable shoal bank, which stretches
more than 20 leagues about W. h N. from that point; and some of the shoal patches
with 3 or 4 fathoms water on them, are 11 or 12 leagues off the coast. One patch, in
lat. 4°0' S., is partly dry, with 10 fathoms near it, and the land of Borneo is just visible
from it bearing N. E. | N. Close to Point Salatan, on the west side, there is a channel
of 12 and 10 fathoms water, stretching about N. by E., and decreasing gradually to 2
fathoms at the entrance of Ben jar Masseen River, formerly a place of considerable Bcnjar Mas-
trade, which was carried on with Benjar Masseen Town, situated 7 or 8 leagues inside *™" '^'^"'
the bar of the river. In the bight, about 3 leagues S. Eastward of the mouth of Ben-
jar Masseen River, is Ross River, which stretches inland to the N. Eastward, and has Ross River.
excellent timber for ship-building in its vicinity. At this place. Captain J. C. Ross,
with the assistance of the natives only, built the ship Borneo, of 420 tons, in 1819, in
which he made several voyages to England, and she is considered to be a sound well-
built ship. Tebonas River lies farther to the southward ; and there is another river 7 TebonasRiver.
or 8 miles North of Point Salatan, witii Pulo Dato fronting its mouth ; all these are on
the east side the bay or channel leading to Benjar Masseen, the bar of which is in about
lat. 3°32'S., Ion. 114°38'E.
Captain Godt, commanding a Dutch vessel in the eastern trade, has transmitted the Directions for
following directions for sailing into Benjar Masseen River, the bar of which extends sc^rRiver
3^ or 4 miles from the entrance of the river to seaward, with 11 to 10 feet upon it at
542
EASTERN PASSAGE THROUGH MACASSAR STRAIT.
high water, being about half a mile wide between the banks that bound it on each side ;
the eastern one is hard sand, nearly dry at low water ; but the west bank is partly soft
mud. The entrance of the river is formed by Tanjong Boorong on the east side, and
Tanjong Bedatta Tooa is the outer point on the western side, the inner part of which,
called Bearing Point by Captain Godt, being the visible extreme used as a mark in
sailing over the bar. Bring Bearing Point N. 35° E. by compass, and Tanjong Boo-
rong N. 58° E., you will then be on the outer edge of the bar, in .3 fathoms water ;
from hence steer N. 38° E., or N. E. ^ N. in 16, 15, 13, and 14 feet water, to bring
Bearing Point N. 34° E., when Tanjon~g Boorong bears N. 66° E. ; then steer J\. 52°
E., or N. E. i E., nearly in 15, 16, 18, and 20 feet, until Bearing Point bears N. 25° E.,
and Tanjong Boorong N. 76° E. ; you are then inside the bar, and should steer N. 37°
E., or N. E. I N., or N. E. by N., for the mouth of the river, and clear of a narrow
spit tliat projects a considerable distance from Tanjong Boorong to tlie westward.
Bearing Point may be approached within 30 or 40 fathoms if necessary ; from hence
to the First Point, keep outside a transit line joining these points, as the mud-bank
along that part is very steep. Avoid the spit that extends from Pulo Racket to the
southward, by not bringing the First Point to the westward of N. by W., and this
point is steep to, only keep your yards clear of the trees in passing it : the channel from
the First Point till past Pulo Racket is narrow, from one to two cables wide, but the
western shore is steep to, as far as the Second Point ; from the latter, steer over to the
Third Point, which is on the eastern shore, then keep close along this shore, and to
Fort Van Tuil, so as the ship's side may just be clear of the trees and piles in rounding
the fort, to avoid a shoal spit that surrounds the opposite western point. The latter
point separates the river into two branches, the largest extending to tiie N.W. ; and
the other in a northerly direction, leading to Benjar Masseen, is very narrow, but has
from 5 to 8 fathoms water all the way, and the shore is steep on both sides. Mid-
channel is the best track to keep clear of the trees, and to avoid the eddy tides near
the points.
BORNEO GREAT RIVER, very little knoivn, is about mid-way between Flat
Point and Point Salatan, or about 30 leagues to the westward of Benjar Masseen River,
nearly in the bottom of a considerable bay, having Datoo Mandayee group of islands
fronting its entrance, which is said to be very wide, and the river extends far inland,
issuing from the Great Lake in the centre of Borneo, not far from Reeney Balloo.
EASTERN PASSAGE TO CHINA, THROUGH MACASSAR
STRAIT.
General re-
marks on the
route liy the
Strait of Ma-
cassar.
PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.
SHIPS proceeding from Europe, or from Hindoostan, towards China by the eastern
passage, frequently adopt the route through the Strait of Macassar. Directions for the
European shiiis to approach the straits East of Java are given in the First Volume of
EASTERN PASSAGE THROUGH MACASSAR STRAIT. 543
this work ; under the head of " Directions from St. Paul towards China by the Pas-
sages East of Java," &c., and also in the following section ; and for the Hindoostan
ships, in this Volume directions will be found, at the beginning of the section entitled,
" Passage between India and the Strait of Sunda," &c.
Although some ships have made quick passages to the northward through the Strait
of JMacassar, others have been embarrassed, and greatly delayed by adverse winds and
currents. The route by the Pitt Passage, and through the Gillolo Passage, or Dam-
pier Strait, into the Pacific Ocean, may be considered more certain, particularly after
the middle of November, when the North-west Monsoon prevails Soutli of the equator.
In part of December, January, and February, the latter route is certainly preferable,
for adverse winds and strong currents setting constantly southward through the Currents from
Strait of Macassar in the two latter months, ought to deter every ship from entering it ^arc"'' '^°
when bound to the northward.
In the Anna, we rounded Pulo Laut January IGth, 1793, and did not reach Cape
Donda until the oth March ; the wind being constantly from northward, with strong
southerly currents, we were forty days gaining the distance of about 11 (J leagues. An
American ship in the strait, at the same time, bound to Manila, considering the pas-
sage impracticable, returned to Batavia.
The Canada, bound from Madras to Macao with despatches, reached Cape Donda
in February, 1792 ; after beating three weeks, and gaining no ground, she stood to the
northward with a north-easterly wind, passed through a narrow channel in 5^ to
7 fathoms, mud, betwixt two of the islands on the east side of Sooloo, then through
the Mindora Sea, between the Calamianes and Apo Shoal, and along the west coast of
Luzon, having made a quick passage from Cape Donda to Macao.
The Laurel, from Bengal, bound to Macao, passed Pulo Laut March 2nd, 1788,
went along the Celebes side of the strait, and reached Cape Donda 22nd, having
experienced strong southerly currents about the equator. She left Cape Rivers
March 24th, passed between Baseelan and Mindanao, then through the xMindora Sea,
and did not reach Goat Island until the 17th April.
The Hindostan and Abergavenny were four weeks from Carimata to Cape Donda,
which they passed December 16th, 1799.
OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER are considered proper months for the passage Passages
through Macassar Strait. "SV^^
The Arniston having cleared Lombock Strait November 1st, 1797, passed to the ber ami No-
eastward of Hastings Island, Little and Great Pulo Laut ; from the latter she stood ^^'"'''•■'^■
over to the eastward for the Celebes side of Macassar Strait, where she got a southerly
wind on the 9th, passed Cape Donda 11th, had constant easterly currents till the 21st,
then in lat. (J° 18' N., Ion. 135° 50' E., and made a very quick passage to Macao. Siie
left the Cape of Good Hojie September 2()th, and passed through Lombock Strait
October 31st, with a fair wind.*
The Dublin and fleet in October, 1798, were only a few days in passing through
Macassar Strait. The Contractor and part of the lieet, which had separated, passed
Pulo Laut October 14th, and cleared Cape Donda 19th.
Notwithstanding speedy passages have been made through this strait in October and
* The Coiitts and Cirencester left Sapy Strait October -^Tth, the same year, proceeded by Salayer Straits
and Pitt Passaoe, where the winds were variable, sometimes easterly, being too early in the season. They got
clear of Dampier Strait November 17th, made the Bashee Islands December 6th, and reached Canton River
about eight days after the Arniston.
544
EASTERN PASSAGE THROUGH MACASSAR STRAIT.
To approach
the Slrait of
Macassar from
the southward.
November, and are generally expected in these months, the contrary has sometimes
been experienced, particularly by the Woodford. This ship was oft' Pulo Laut
October 13th, 1803, and proceeded along the Borneo side of the strait, experienced
light airs and calms, with a current setting l^ miles per hour to the southward, which
obliged her to anchor frequently in lat. 2° S. to 1° S. Having reached Cape Donda,
November 9th, in lat. 0° 47' N., she was carried back by the currents to lat. 1° 0' S.,
where she anchored 16th, in 9^ fathoms, mud, about 3 leagues off" the Borneo shore.
On the 19tli, she anchored in 6j fathoms, with the S.E. point of Pamaroong Island
E. N. E., and the opening betwixt it and the main, or entrance of Gooty River,
N. N. E., distant 6 or 7 miles : the two cutters were sent to Gooty for rice, but could
find no such place.* From hence, the Woodford proceeded to Passier, anchored
there on the '22nd, and got 133 bags of rice, some sago and fruit; she sailed again on
the 30th, found the southerly current still prevailing, which prevented her reaching
Cape Rivers until December 24th ; being two months and three days getting through
the Strait of Macassar, excluding seven days she remained at Passier. Had she been
on the Celebes side, probably/ the current would have been weaker, particularly near
the shore; but the difficulty experienced by the Woodford shews that the passage to
the northward through the Strait of Macassar is sometimes uncertain, even in the
favourable season.
The ship William Money, after having reached Cape William, in company with
the American ship Ogelthorpe, was drifted back by the southerly current to lat.
3° 46' S., near Cape Mandhar, November 29th, 1833; this current continuing with
faint variable airs, they relinquished the passage by the Strait of Macassar, and pro-
ceeded by the Pitt and Gillolo Passages. Light winds continuing, they did not reach
Geby till December 25th, where they received twenty butts of water, and sailed on the
following day in company with the Moira, for China.
The Royal George and David Scott left Malacca, October 26th, 1812, proceeded
through tlie Carimata Passage, and having experienced light S. Easterly winds, did
not reach Dwaalder Island till the 26th November; from hence, they had northerly
winds and a southerly current, w hich obliged them to anchor frequently, and they did
not reach Pamaroong Island till the 8th December ; here a strong southerly wind fortu-
nately commenced, which carried them to SiaO in 50 hours : but from the adverse
winds and currents experienced by these ships, so early as November and the begin-
ning of December, Captain Gribble, of the Royal George, considers the route to China
by the Strait of Macassar at all times precarious. They passed to the eastward of the
Philippine Islands, and reached Macao Road January 10th, 1813 : had they adopted
the Palawan Passage after leaving the Strait of Malacca, they would probably have
arrived six weeks sooner in Macao Road.
SHIPS havinj
come through Bally Strait in September or October, and being
bound towards the Strait of Macassar, should proceed to the northward between
Pondy and Galion ; then giving a berth to the western extremity of the Kalkoon Isles
and Shoals, may steer to pass on either side of Little Pulo Laut, as the winds may
render advisable.
* Gooty, or Koote River's entrance, is a little to the soutliward of the above-mentioned island, but the town
is situated for up the river. Captain Robert Scott, in 1797, had his vessel cut off by the Manila Helmsmen
(who formed part of the crew), while at anchor off the entrance of Gooty River, and the European officers were
killed by them. The commander being at the town when these pirates carried away the vessel, he was forced
to remain at Gooty until the change of the monsoon ; he was treated with hospitality, being known to the chief
of that place, and he afterwards arrived safe at Malacca in one of the trading proas.
EASTERN PASSAGE THROUGH MACASSAR STRAIT. 545
Those from Lombock Strait should steer N. N. Eastward, to pass betwixt the
westernmost Pater Nosters and Hastings Island, or just in sight of the latter; then to
the northward for the Two Brothers and Great Pulo Laut.
Ships from Allass Strait may steer N.N. W, and northward to make Hastings
Island, and pass to the eastward of it, as in the case last mentioned.
Ships which come through Sapy Strait in the same months may pass either to the
eastward or westward of the Postillions, as winds or other circumstances require ; then
proceed to the northward betwixt Tanakeka and the Tonyn Islands, giving a berth
afterwards to the Spermonde archipelago of isles and shoals, which stretch N. West-
ward from the Bay of Macassar; but in this track great caution is indispensableon
account of the dangers around.
SHIPS from HINDOOSTAN, bound to China by an Eastern Passage, ought, if From Hindoo-
possible, to sail in October or November, to be enabled to reach China in sufficient time by "he" East'em
to return down the China Sea by the common track. I'assage.
Those which sail from Hindoostan after the early part of December, if to proceed by
an Eastern Passage, can hardly be expected to arrive at China in sufficient time to
return down the China Sea with the Nortii-east Monsoon, although some solitary in-
stances to the contrary may occur.
Ships from Bengal, bound to China l)y an Eastern Passage, have the option of pro-
ceeding by Malacca Strait and the Carimata Passage, or to the westward of Sumatra,
as circumstances require : although the route by Malacca Strait and the Palawan
Passage, then along the west coast of Luzon, seems preferable for ships leaving
Bengal during the early part of the North-east Monsoon, more particularly as they will
probably reach China sooner by this route than by any of the circuitous Eastern
Passages.
Those from the Malabar coast, Ceylon, or the southern parts of the Coroniandel
coast, may pass South of Java, then through any of the straits eastward of it: or,
in time of j^eace, the track by Sunda Strait, then eastward between .Tava and Borneo,
may be adopted, which is considered equally safe, and more direct than the route to the
southward of Java, although the winds are steadier outside.* Having entered Sunda
Strait, the track by the North Watcher, to the northward of the Thousand Islands,
may be pursued ; or they may touch at Batavia for a supply of water or provisions,
when absolutely necessary.
SHIPS PROCEEDING EASTWARD, betwixt JAVA and BORNEO, ought caution i..^^
to be prepared for sudden severe squalls, which frequently blow furiously during the ^^'ajd'througii
strength of the North-west Monsoon, particularly in December and January, when the the Java Sea.
weather is generally cloudy with much rain. Leaving Edam Island in these months,
steer about E. N. E. 40 leagues, if observations are not obtained, to be certain of pass-
ing to the northward of the reef that lies oft'Bumkin Island, and also to pass clear of
Carimon Java ; for in this season the current sets sometimes to the E. S. Eastward as
far as Lubeck, or to the Solombos, then about E. N. E. towards the entrance of the
Strait of Macassar. From Edam, Moresses Island bears E. 10'' N., distant about From Edam
184 leagues ; steering E. N. E. from the former, the depth increases to 28 or 30 fiithoms 's°;;!,"'l,V
Macassar.
* Ships from the Malabar coast or western parts of India ouatht not to attempt the passage through Malacca
Strait. The Anna left Bombay October 2:-^k1, 180G, proceeded by Malacca Strait and the Carimata Passage;
and on January 7th, in Pitt Passage, she fell in with the ship Alexander, which came through Allass Strait,
having left Bombay November 21st, or thirty days after the Anna.
VOL. II. 4 A
546
BORNEO, SOUTH COAST. — LITTLE PULO LAUT.
at the distance of 40 leagues. From hence steering between E. by N. and East,
depths from 30 to 34 fathoms will be found until within 40 or 45 leagues of Tanjong
Salatan : steering on about E. ^ N., the depth of water will gradually decrease to
14 or 15 fathoms, when Tanjong Salatan is abreast, about 7 leagues distant. Care
must be taken to avoid the Arrogant Shoal, in lat. 5° 12' S., about 14 leagues to the
northward of Lubeck.
Tanjong Sala-
tan; the ad-
joining coast.
Little Pulo
Laut Group.
AVater.
COASTS, ISLANDS, AND DANGERS.
TANJONG SALATAN, in lat. 4° 10' S., Ion. 114° 42' E., by stars on each side
the moon, or 26 leagues to the westward of Moresses, is the southernmost point of
Borneo, and the high land over it, called Goonong Ratoos, or Hundred Mountains,
appears like islands when seen 10 or 12 leagues off; this high land forms a ridge of
peaked hills stretching East towards Pulo Laut, but close to the sea the coast is low
and woody.
The coast hereabout may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms, but 14 fathoms is a
good depth to preserve in passing the Tanjong Salatan, and from thence eastward to
Moresses it may be approached with caution to 7 or fathoms : the former ought not
to be passed at a greater distance than 8, or at most 10 leagues, for the Island Arentes,
on the south side of the passage, is situated farther westward than generally repre-
sented ; and to the westward of this island there is a rocky spot, on which an American
ship struck, in January, 1794, according to the account of the pilot of that ship, which
we fell in with a few days after in the Strait of Macassar; they had 18 fathoms just
before and after striking, and one cast of five fathoms immediately after the shock :
the track of 18 fathoms ought, therefore, to be avoided.
LITTLE PULO LAUT,* or LAUROT ISLANDS, are mostly high, and form
a group stretching nearly from lat. 4° 43' S., to 5° 0' S. Within half a mile of the
southernmost there are 16 fathoms water, but the shore is rocky. The Laurel an-
chored in 20 fathoms on the N.W. side of the northernmost island, about a mile offshore,
where she remained two days, and filled up her water. It was procured at some deep
holes or wells, which received a stream of water, under the shade of some trees at the
foot of the mountain : as the long boat was prevented by rocks from getting nearer
than twenty yards of the beach, the people were obliged to carry the water to her in
buckets; firewood was got close to the beach. Some breakers project a little way
from the N.E. end of this island.
Moresses ;
isles and con-
tiguous chan-
nels.
MORESSES, or MANEVASA ISLAND, in lat. 4° 25' S., Ion. 116°3'E., by
lunar observations, lies about 8 leagues to the N. N. Eastward of the northernmost
Little Pulo Laut. It forms like a pyramid in a regular peak at the summit ; and it is
the largest of a group of three small islands, having three or four islets or rocks above
water contiguous to them ; they lie near each other, the large island in the centre. The
large island ought not to be approached nearer than 3 miles in the night, for the outer-
most islet or rock is about 1^ miles to the southward of it, and is on with the body of
it bearing N. N.W. ^ W. The channels on either side Moresses are safe, with regular
soundings in the northern one, of 14 and 15 fathoms water : the southern channel,
betwixt it and Little Pulo Laut Islands, is 6 or 7 leagues wide, and more frequented
than the other, with soundings of 18 fathoms in mid-channel. When passing
* /. e. Sea Islands.
ISLANDS NEAR THE SOUTH ENTRANCE OF MACASSAR STRAIT. 647
through with a north-west wind, it is proper to borrow on the north side, towards
Moresses.
DWAALDER ISLAND, in lat. 4° 12' S., Ion. 116° '21' E., bearing N. 54° E., Dwaaider
distant 7-^ leagues from Moresses, is woody, small, and low; being higher at the east
and west ends than in the middle, it appears in the form of a saddle when viewed
from the southward, and from its eastern })art a reef projects about the length of
the island. The passage to the northward of the Dwaaider is safe, with soundings of
13 to 15 fathoms; but the southern channel between it and the Two Brothers is
generally used, being about 4^ or 5 leagues wide, with soundings of 15 and 16 fathoms
in mid-channel, and 13 or 14 fathoms near the Dwaaider.
THE ROYAL GEORGE SHOAL, in lat. 4° 17i S., was examined by Captain Royai George
Gribble, with the boats of the ship of this name, November 25th, 1812, having sud- ^^°^^'
denly got into 4f fathoms water on it, when proceeding towards China by the Strait
of Macassar. The shoal seemed to be nearly circular, about three-rpiarters of a mile
in extent; when upon its centre in 4^ fathoms, Dwaaider Island bore VV.f S. about
3 leagues, Button Rock N. ^ E. about 7 miles, the south end of Pulo Laut N.W. by
W., and the least water found on it was 4^ fathoms.
THE TWO BROTHERS, in lat. 4° 26' S., Ion. 116° 32' E., bearing nearly East Two Brothers.
from Moresses, distant 9^ leagues, and S. S. E. f E. from the Dwaaider, are two
small, low, round islands, connected by a reef, with several thick bushy trees on them,
and are open with each other bearing E. by N. ^ N.
Contiguous to the south point of Great Pulo Laut there are three small islands, of
moderate height; the Button, a round islet or rock, is situated near the east side of
the southernmost island, having 11 and 12 fathoms near it on the outside, which
is the proper channel ; these isles lie about 5 leagues N. Eastward from the Dwaaider.
THE INNER CHANNEL, formed betwixt the middle and southernmost of the inner channel
small islands mentioned above, is rather too nan-ow for large ships, and should not be isV^off'thr
followed unless in a case of necessity, with a commanding breeze in daylight. The south end of
Snows Betsey and Experiment, bound to the N.W. coast of America, went through
it February 16th, 1786; and Captain Betham, of the Wellington, from China, bound
to England, came through it September 1st, 1815, from whose journal the following
remarks are taken. At noon, after passing the Alike Islands, perceived at 3 p.m.
that we could not weather the Button, and having the passage open to leeward
between the southernmost and middle islands, bore away for it, and at 4 entered
between the islands. A reef extends a considerable way towards the Button, and we
shoaled regularly from 18 to 6^ fathoms, which was the least water we had in the
channel : a reef also stretches from tlie west point of South Island towards the
Dwaaider a great way out, and a small isle, united by a ridge of rocks just above
water to South Island, might in coming from the eastward be mistaken for the
Dwaaider, being somewhat like it; the two northern islands also, when first seen
bearing S.W. by VV., have the appearance of the Two Brothers. When steering for the
passage, borrow towards the northern island, as shoal water appears to extend from
the N. E. end of South Island, a long way to the northward ; wiien the small isle men-
tioned, contiguous to the west end of South Island, is shut in with the west point
of the latter, haul to the southward, as a reef appears to project far out from the
4 A 2
548
MACASSAR STRAIT.
S.W. point of Pulo Laut, where we shoaled from 10 to 9, 8, 7, and 6 fathoms,
keeping a lead going on each side. At half-past 5 a.m. we were through this pas-
sage, tiie Moresses bearing S.W. 5 or 6 leagues, which seems safe with a fair wind
in the day, the narrowest part from land to land being apparently about a mile
wide.
Macassar
Strait.
Tlie Celebes
coast.
Great Pulo
I.aut.
Watering
place.
MACASSAR STRAIT is about 1 15 leagues in length from the south end of Great
Pulo Laut to Point Kanneeoogan, and generally from 45 to 35 leagues wide ; except
where it is contracted by the great projection of this point to 17 leagues at the north
entrance. Between lat. 2° and 3° S., the strait is separated into two channels, by the
archipelago of isles and shoals, called the Little Pater Nosters : the width of the west-
ern channel is 10 or 11 leagues, and the eastern one 15 or 10 leagues; but there are
some dangers in the former, which is nevertheless much frequented, and is preferred
to the other, having moderate depths along the coast of Borneo for anchoring occa-
sionally, as far as lat. 1° N. ; whereas, the coast of Celebes is steep to, in many places,
and destitute of anchorage. The Arniston and other ships, which passed along the
Celebes side in October and November, got speedily through the strait ; and there is
reason to think that this will generally be found the quickest route, for light southerly
breezes prevail at times on thisside, when the wind is different near the BorneoShore;
and when strong southerly currents prevailed in the middle of the strait in January
and February, we found their velocity decrease a little, as we approached close to the
Celebes Shore.
To sail along the Celebes side of the strait, ships coming from the southward or west-
ward, in the westerly monsoon, ought to approach the S. E. part of Great Pulo Laut,
as if they were to proceed along the Borneo side, and thence, an E. by N. to E. N. E.
course should be steered, to make the coast of Celebes at, or a little to the northward
of, Cape Mandhar ; a berth should be given to the Triangles, and the Union Shoal to
the northward, and to those seen by the Laurel and Waller, to the southward : the lead
should be kept going in this track, that, if possible, the approach to any of the shoals
may be known. Ships coming from southward in the Easterly Monsoon, should steer
to pass between Tanakeka Island and the S.W. part of Celebes, if they intend to touch at
Macassar for refreshments.
Great Pulo Laut is extensive, and from its south point a reef of breakers pro-
jects almost to the nearest island; the east coast seems free from danger, with mud
soundings, generally of 13 to 15 fathoms about 2 or 3 leagues off, and 20 or 22 fathoms
about 8 leagues offshore. Abreast the Alike Islands, contiguous to the shore of Pulo
Laut, there are several small isles ; the outermost is about 2 miles off, and bears West
a little southerly from the Alike Islands. From the N. E. point of Pulo Laut, a reef
projects, but the point may be rounded about 1^ miles distant, in 8 to 10 fathoms, if
ships intend to fill up their water in the deep bay formed betwixt the point and the
nortii end of the island. This bay is sheltered from all winds but those between North
and East, and the soundings are regular to the watering place under the high land on
the west side, where a ship may anchor abreast of it in 6 fathoms about H miles off
shore, with the N. E. point of the bay bearing E. by S. ^ S., and a small island covered
with trees S. E. : this island lies on the east side the bay, and has a shoal in front of
it. Oystei-s may be got at the watering place, and the woods abound with wild hogs
and deer.
The north end of Great Pulo Laut I made in lat. 3° 1.3' S., the N. E. point in lat.
3°23'S., Ion. 110°4l'E., by chronometers and lunar observations. The east side of
MACASSAR STRAIT. 549
the island is moderately elevated, sloping with a gradual declivity towards the N. E.
point ; the N.W. part is higli land.
The narrow strait forraeil betwixt the coast of Borneo and this island is navigable
by boats, or small vessels, but no ship should attempt to pass through it. Europeans
ought to be cautious if they land on Pulo Laut, for Captain Alves, in the ship London,
was cut off there.
Three Alike Islands, in lat. 3°41'S., Ion. 11(J°54'E., by chronometers and The Alike
lunar observations, bearing N. 47° E. from the Dwaalder, distant 1-5 leagues, named ^^'''"'''■
from their resemblance to each other, and called also Maragalongs, form a small group
of three* islands, exclusive of an islet and some contiguous rocks; they may be seen
from the deck at 5 or 6 leagues' distance. The channel between them and Pulo Laut
is 4 and 5 leagues wide, and clear of danger, with regular depths of 16 or 17 fathoms
in the middle, to 13 fathoms within a mile of the west side of the islands. These
islands are also safe to approach on the outside, having from 20 to 22 fathoms water
about 2 or 3 leagues off; but in lat. 3° 37' S., Ion. 117° 48' E., there is a dri/ sand- Drysami-
bankf about 17 or 18 leagues to the eastward of them, with a coral bank of (J fathoms '"'"'*
or less, about 2 leagues S. S.W. from the sand-bank.
The ship William Money, November 23rd, 1833, saw a dry sand-bank in lat. 3° 30' S.,
Ion. 117° 43' E., by mean of three chronometers: tiie American ship Oglethorpe sent
a boat to it, and found a coral reef project nearly half a mile from the sand-bank.
In the fair track, from between the Two Brothers and Dwaalder to the Alike Islands,
the soundings are mostly 10 to 18 fathoms, from 4 to 6 leagues off Pulo Laut.
The Laurel Shoal, called Bato Bontonga by the Malays, is in about lat. L^miei shoai.
4° 32' S., Ion. 117° 15' E., distant 14 or 15 leagues eastward of the Two Brothers, by
the journal of Captain Cheminant, of the Laurel. This shoal appears to lie on the
edge of the soundings, which extend from it to Pulo Laut and the adjoining islands :
the Laurel, March 2nd, 1788, steering eastward with light airs, in 35 fathoms, soft
ground, shoaled suddenly to 7 fathoms, coral rock ; anchored immediately, had 4^
fathoms, and 3f fathoms were found by the boat a little to the southward under the
ship's stern, the current then setting nearly one mile per hour in that direction; and
to the eastward, the depth increased to Hi fathoms about half a mile distant. The
coral rocks being sharp-pointed, and the ship pitching deep with the N. E. swell, when
at 8 P.M. the weather threatening, and a breeze commencing at N. N. E., hove short,
then cut the cable, but before the ship got headway had 3 fathoms rocks, and after-
wards, several casts of 4 to 6 fathoms. Steering to the eastward the depth in-
creased to 10 fathoms, then to 20, 30, and 35, soft bottom, next cast no ground with
50 fathoms.
Captain Hunter got on the tail of this shoal, and made it in lat. 4° 35' S., Ion.
117° 19' E., by lunar observation.
The Laurel Shoal is probably the tail of one of those seen by Lieutenant Davidson, waiier shoais.
of the Waller brig, April 29th, 1803, extending between lat. 4° 30' and 4° 37' S. ; this
vessel passed over the tail of a coral shoal at 7 p.m., on which the bottom was clearly
seen, but she had only three casts, from 9 to 14 fathoms, then no ground 40 Jiithoms.
About 3 miles farther to the southward she got on the edge of another shoal, apjm-
reyithf dau<ierons, the sharp-pointed coral rocks being seen under the bottom ; she had
from 8 to 15 fathoms on the edge of it, then no ground 22 lathoms. About 4 miles
* Called Pulo Ampat's, oi- Four Islands, by the IMalays ; the small islet making that number.
f Seen by C.iptain Hunter, in his voyage from Port Jackson to Batavia, in 1791. It is very small, and may
probably be covered at high water.
550 MACASSAR STRAIT.
more to the southward she got on the edge of a third shoal in 9 and 10 fathoms,
rugged coral rocks, then no ground ; to avoid these shoals, the sails were thrown
a-back immediately when they were discovered. Upon the edge of the southernmost
of the Waller Shoals, at noon, observed 4° 37' S., Ion. 117° 8' E., by chronometers,
and 117° T E. by observations C taken at 3 p.m., after running 4 leagues S. f W.
Noesa seras. from noou. At this time the four islands Noesa Seras were seen from the mast-head,
and at 6 p.m. they bore E. by S. ^ S., distant 4 leagues: they are low woody islands,
may be seen 7 leagues, and by these observations are in lat. 5° 2' S., Ion. 117° 9' E.
The Triangles. Triangles, or Larre Lareen, are three very small isles, lying about mid-strait
between Celebes and Borneo, the two northernmost in lat. 3° V S., Ion. 117° 53' E.
The other, in lat. 3° 5' S., bearing S. ^ W. from them, is a small sandy isle, with a few
bushes on it, one of these being very conspicuous in the centre, and breakers extending
from this isle to the others. Regular soundings of 23 to 27 fathoms stretch from the
east side of Pulo Laut to these isles, and the depths are 22 or 23 fathoms to the south-
ward, and to the eastward of them, from 3 miles to 3 leagues distance: soundings also
extend from them northward to the Little Pater Nosters.
Soundings and When 6 or 7 leagues to the eastward of these islands, there are no more soundings
coral banks. obtained in steering towards the coast of Celebes, but there appear to be one or two
coral banks, the situation of which is imperfectly known. The Union had 7 and
8 fathoms on a coral bank, about 8 leagues to the eastward of the Triangles, in lat.
3° 2' S. ; and the Laurel had three casts of 16 and 17 fathoms, coral rock, then no
ground 60 fathoms, with the land of Cape William rising in small hills, and bearing
E. by N. Northerly, distant about 11 leagues. The Coutts and fleet, returning from
China, in July, 1801, kept on the Celebes side of the strait, had soundings of 27
fathoms about 11 or 12 leagues to the south-westward of Cape William ; and steering
S.W. by S. about 13 miles, carried soundings from 25 to 30 fathoms, then no ground
40 fathoms. Although, possibly, the soundings obtained by those ships were on a
continued bank of considerable extent, yet it is more probable that there are several
patches hereabout ; for that on which the Laurel had soundings seems to be a small
spot, considerably to the northward of the bank where the Coutts sounded upon.
Macassar. Macassar Town, or Castle ROTTERDAM, the chief Settlement of the Dutch on
the Island Celebes, is in lat. 5° 9' S., Ion. 119° 36' E., by lunar observations. This
place being encompassed with numerous shoals and small isles, the navigation towards
it is thereby rendered intricate. If a ship find it necessary to touch here for refresh-
ments, the best channel is from the S. Westward, betwixt the Spermonde Archipelago
and the islands and shoals of Tanakeka, or that between the latter island and Celebes
is the best if coming from the southward, keeping mid-channel towards the island ;
but a boat will be required to sound ahead if unacquainted, as the bottom is mostly
coral in the channels, with great overfalls. Pi'ovisions and refreshments of various
kinds abound at Macassar.
The anchorage is abreast the town in 7 or 8 fathoms, inside Great Lyly Isle and
shoal ; and the channel leading to it is from southward, by keeping near the shore to
avoid the Lyly Shoal, but a berth must be given to a sunken rock that lies off the
point about 4 miles S. S.W. from the town.
A rock in the channel leading to Macassar Road was explored, July 8th, 1813,
and when upon it in G feet water, the house on Lyly and Rajah Bony's House were
in one with Gon River bearing S.E., and two White Pillars E. N. E. By keeping
Lyly open of Rajah Bony's House, on either side, you will pass clear of this danger,
which was found to extend North and South about three ships' lengths, and about a
MACASSAR STRAIT. 551
cable's length N.W. by VV. and S. E. by E., with 2i and 3 fathoms water at half a
cable's length distance from it.
Cape Mandhar, in lat. 3° 35' S. by the Arniston's observations,* and in Ion. capeMandhar.
119° 9' £., is the western extremity of the great bay formed between it and Macassar,
in which there is said to be some harbours or places of anchorage. The cape is high
land, and all the coast of Celebes from thence northward is high and steep, destitute
of soundings in most places, until very near the shore. Close to the sea, in some parts,
the land is of moderate height, but all mountainous a little way up the country.
Trinder Shoal, seen in the brig Amboyna, by Captain JohnTrinder, is described Trinder shoai.
by him as follows. At noon, October 12th, 1804, saw an extensive shoal bearing from
South to N.W., the nearest part distant about a mile ; no part of it appeared above
water, but small breakers were seen in various parts of the shoal, the centre of which
is in lat. 2° 59' S., Cape Mandhar bearing from it S. E. by E., distant 18 miles.
If the latitude assigned above to this shoal, and the relative position of Cape Mand-
har, be correct, it would place the cape in lat. 3° 9' S. ; but observations taken in the
Arniston made it in lat. 3° 55' S., which will place the shoal much farther to the
southward than the latitude assigned to it above. Its relative situation, as given from
Cape Mandhar, Avill be the best guide for avoiding this apparently dangerous shoal ;
as Captain Trinder seems not to have examined it closely, its existence is not very
satisfactorily ascertained.
Lebaney Bay, on the west coast of Celebes, where H.M.S. Virginie watered in Lebaney Bay,
1800, is in lat. 2° 40' S., in approaching which, a village will be seen close to the **''''""'e p ^'^^•
beach ; bring the centre of this E. N. E. and steer for it ; the first soundings
will be 70 or 80 fathoms, then suddenly 40 and 30 fathoms. When the north
point of the bay bears N. ^ E., and the south point S. by W., the depths will be 28 or
30 fathoms about a quarter of a mile oft' the village at the head of the bay ; and far-
ther in the water shoals gradually to 20, 15, and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. The
water is excellent at a place close to the beach, about a quarter of a mile to the south-
ward of the village, where the above-named frigate watered in 24 hours ; and the
Malay chief promised to bring bufl'aloes and other stock, if she could have stayed three
days in the bay.
Cape William, in lat. 2° 34' S., Ion. 118° 58' E.,by chronometer, is a high pro CapeWiiiiam;
jecting headland, having a large bay to the eastward, said to contain some islands and ^coalf^^^^
shoals ; the isle near the cape is on with it bearing East. Point Kyi is 4 or 5 leagues
nearly South from Cape William, being the southern extremity of the peninsula that
forms the latter cape ; and Point Onkona, or Anisone, about (J leagues farther to the
southward, projects a considerable way, by which a bay is formed betwixt it and
Point Kyi, and another on the south side.
When Cape William bears East about 10 or 12 leagues distant, the nearest isle of
the Little Pater Nosters is discernible bearing W. by N. h N., distant about 5 or
5^ leagues. These isles ought to be avoided, having many shoals in their vicinity,
and among them.
Cape Temoel, or Cape Samsa, is the N. W. extremity of a peninsula of high capeTemoei.
land, projecting a considerable way from the coast to the westward, by which a bayis
formed on each side, but these bays appear to be destitute of soundings. Tlie coast be-
twixt Cape William and this place is bold and steep ; we could get no soundings at the
* The Scaleby Castle, bound to China, went along the Celebes coast, and on November 3th, ISH, had Cape
Mandhar bearing East at noon, when the observed latitude was 3= 39' S.
552
MACASSAR STRAIT.
distance of 2 or 3 leagues off it, and probabli/ there are none, except too close to the shore
for any useful purpose. There is said, however, to be a place called Koilly, or Kayley,
about 13 or 14 leagues to the northward of Cape William, famous for gold, sheep,
&c. ; but great caution is requisite in conununicating with the inhabitants of this
coast.*
There is a high table mountain in lat. 0° 56' S., and a point of land stretching
N. Westward from it, in lat. 0° 52' S., which forms the western extremity of Palos Bay.
When CapeTemoel is first seen in coming from the northward it makes like islands,
the land that connects it with the coast being lower than the hills which form it. The
N.W. point of the cape, where it projects most, is in lat. 0° 1' N., Ion. 119° 2(J' E., by
observations taken in the Anna, when we were all the month of February endeavour-
ina' to round it to the northward ; the south point of the peninsula that forms the cape
is m lat. 0° 8'S.
About4or 5 miles N. Westward from the cape lies a small round island, called the
South Watcher, or Watcher by the Dutch, having a reef projecting from its south end ;
and from its N. E. end a reef of rocks and sand extends towards the Celebes shore,
more than one-third of the distance between them. The Laurel stood in nearly mid-
channel between the reef that projects from the south end of this island, and another
stretching from the opposite bluff point of Temoel, then steered into the bottom of the
bay within the island, where she was during the night, tacking every hour with the
wind at N. N. E., but got no soundings. She kept near the northern shore of the
bay when coming out in the morning, to give a berth to the reef offthe N. E. end of the
South Watcher. It is, however, not advisable to go inside this island; for the passage
seemed to us unsafe, when at the distance of 3 or 4 miles outside.
CapeDonda, Cape Donda, bearing N. 33° E. from Cape Temoel, distant about 19 leagues, is in
lat. 0° 48' N., Ion. 119° 57' £., by a series of observations of the sun, stars, and moon;
and the observations of Captain Heywood make it the same.f
The mountains over this cape being very high, and having a steep declivity to the
water's edge, terminating in several bold head-lands, it is difficult to distinguish the
cape. It is said that the ship Jane got soundings near the shore a little to the south-
ward of Cape Donda; but it is certain that all this coast is very steep, for no sound
ings are got close to the islands which line the shore between that cape and Cape
Rivers; nor do there appear to be any in the bays with sandy beaches adjacent to the
seven islands, or in those formed by Cape Temoel.
Seven Islands. Seven Islands, in lat. 0° 32' N., the centre fronting the coast to the southward
of Cape Donda, are flat, low, and woody, not easily distinguished unless when near
them, except the outermost, called North Watcher, or Watcher. This island is in about
lat. 0° 33' N., distant 5 or 6 leagues from the shore, and appears not so large as the
others, but may be seen 5 or 6 leagues from the deck : the channel betwixt it and the
nearest long level island is about 2 or 3 leagues wide, and clear of danger.
Cape Rivers, in lat. 1° 15' N., Ion. 120° 34' E., by our lunar observations and chro-
nometers, bearing N. 55° E. from Cape Donda, distant 16 leagues, has two small isles
close to it, and the land that forms it having a regular declivity, with a gap not far
from the extremity, gives the cape an isolated appearance when first seen. To the
contiguous
land.
Cape Rivers.
* Capt. Woodward, who landed in the boat of an American ship, between Cape Temoel and Cape Donda,
March 3rd, 1793, was attacked by the inhabitants, had one man killed, and the others made slaves ; he escaped
two years afterwai'ds in a proa to Macassar, with two of the men that survived.
f Captain Maj'ne, of the Company's ship Atlas, made it in Ion. 119° 58' E., but Capt. Lynn's chronometers
placed it several miles farther to the eastward.
MACASSAR STRAIT. 553
eastward betwixt it and Trees Cape there is a projecting headland with white cliffs
fronting the sea.
The coast betwixt it and Cape Donda forms a small concavity, and is mountainous
at a small distance inland. To the eastward of Cape Rivers about 23 leagues, in the
bay on tlie east side of Cape Candy, the river and village of Bool are situated ; there is
said to be anchorage and fresh water here, but some dangers project from tiie shore,
and a rock covered with 3 fathoms water, on which an English ship struck.
A ship proceeding along the coast of Celebes from Cape Mandhar to Cape Rivers SaiiinE diree-
should keep at least 2 or 3 leagues off", in light winds, to prevent being drifted near rte"celebes
the shore; but when beating to the northward, against a steady wind and lee current, side,
she ought to work near the coast in most places, particularly in the bay to the south-
ward of Cape Temoel, where she will be out of the strength of the current.
The Borneo Side of the Strait has generally been adopted by ships, until they and along the
have passed the Little Pater Nosters : to [)roceed by this route, after liaviug rounded BomVo
the S. E. part of Great Pulo Laut, the channel on either side the Alike Islands may
be chosen, as circumstances retpiire, and a course steered from thence towards Shoal
Point. The best track between them with a working wind is to stand out into 15 or
]6 fathoms, about 4 or 5 leagues oft' shore, and it may be approached to 7 or 8 fathoms,
about 2 or I^ leagues distant: the bottom is generally soft mud, but in some parts
overfalls may be got from 10 to 8 or 7 fathoms in the fair channel, about 4 or 5 leagues
off" shore.
Shoal Point, in lat. 2° 35' S., Ion. 1 10° 47' E., by chronometer, and the mean of siioai Poim
a series of lunar observations, bearing from the Three Alike Islands N. 0° W., distant
22 leagues, is the southern extremity of a piece of woody level land, about 9 leagues
in length. Close to the point on the south side there is a deep inlet or river ; and
another in lat. 2° 58' S., having an island close to the point that separates it from Pulo
Laut Strait. A reef projects from Shoal Point in a southerly direction, having some
rocks and bushes above water ; but the flat that fronts the point may be borrowed on
with safety to 6 fathoms on the east side, about 2 leagues' distance, the bottom being
soft, and the decrease of depth very gradual. Steering a direct course along tlie coast,
the water shoals about 2 fathoms abreast the point, and returns to the former depth
when past it.
RAGGED POINT, or TANJONG ARES,* in lat. 2° 10' S., Ion. 116° 48' E., by Ragged point.
mean of many lunar observations, corroborated by chronometers, bears nearly North
from Shoal Point, distant 8| leagues ; the land fronting the sea between them, being level
and moderately elevated, is terminated to the nortliward by Ragged Point, which is
bluff', with some gaps among the trees and surrounded by a reef: from hence, the coast
takes a westerly direction, forming the great bay of Passier to the northward.
Betwixt Shoal and Ragged Points is the most intricate part of the strait, on account simis off this
of SEVERAL shoals contiguous to the passage, not well explored, nor easily avoided ^o^st?^"'*
in the night ; for the soundings are not sufficiently regular to guide a shij) clear of the
dangers.
On the southernmost of these shoals the Henry Addington grounded, November 12th,
1805, in 31 fathoms, coral, and the least water found on it was 2 fathoms, coral rock.
Shoal Point bearing N.W. i N., distant G or 7 leagues. When abreast this dangerous
shoal, it is proper to keep within 4 leagues of the coast, and not bring Shoal Point to
* Called also Tanjong Lopar.
VOL. II. 4 1$
554
MACASSAR STRAIT.
the westward of N.W. by N. or N.W. k N., until to the northward of the Addington
Shoal, which seems to be in about lat. 2° 50' S.
Other shoals, which lie in the offing, are 3 or 3^ leagues off' shore, not easily
discerned in fine weather ; for although nearly dry at low water spring tides, they have
Tides. sometimes from 3 to 9 and 12 feet water on them, because the tide rises iiere 7 or 8
feet at full and change of moon. The Hercules examined one of these shoals with her
boat, and found it composed of sand, coral, and stones, with from 3 to 9 feet water on
it, and from 15 to 17 fathoms close to. This shoal bears from Ragged Point about
S. 35° E., and N. 47° E. from Shoal Point, distant about 3^ leagues off" shore; for
when the shoal bore from S. 39° E. to S. 66° E. about half a mile distant, Ragged Point
bore N. 33° W., and Shoal Point S. 47° VV. It appeared like a long mark occasioned
by the reflection of a cloud passing the sun.
Two SHOALS were seen in 1795, by the Bridgewater, True Briton, Woodford, and
Albion, the southernmost of which appears to be very near, or part of, that examined
by the Hercules ; for they found it to bear S.37°E. from Ragged Point, distant about
15| miles, and from Shoal Point N. 41° E., about the same distance. The other shoal
bore from Ragged Point S. 41° E., distant about 3^ leagues, and from Shoal Point
N. 20° E. ; no part of the shoals appeared above water at the time, but the sea broke
upon them.
It appears to have been the last-mentioned shoal that was examined by Capt. T.
Lynn, of the ship Barkworth, November 24th, 1816, who describes it thus: — From
abreast of Shoal Point, kept about 6 miles oft' shore in coasting along, in soundings
from 5 to 7 fathoms, till that point bore S. 32° W., and Ragged Point N. 22° W. ; then
at 9f A.M. steered N.E. by N. and N. E., and at 10 saw from the tops the JNorth
Sand dry, bearing N. |^ E. Steered between the shoals as intended, leaving the above-
mentioned one Z\ or 4 miles on the larboard side, least water 6, and never more than
8 fathoms. Although the weather was favourable, did not see the other shoal ; but its
existence is certain, as I have landed on it in a former voyage. A little before noon
1 landed on the North Sand, and by good observation made it in lat. 2° 17' 25''' S.,
Ragged Point bearing from it N. 44|° W., Shoal Point S. 28° W., as near as could be
ascertained, for the latter point was nearly sunk to the view, and appeared broken ; the
sand seemed to be G or 8 miles off shore, and about 9 miles distant from Ragged Point.
This is a very extensive and dangerous shoal, having several distinct patches about it,
with apparently deep water between them : one of these is a sand-bank, above water
at times, to the N.W. about a mile, and the greatest extent of the danger is in this di-
rection ; in circumference, I should think it nearly 2 miles.
There seems to be another shoal betwixt these and the shoal on which the Henry
Addington grounded to the soutliward ; for when Shoal Point bore S.W. by W.f W.,
and the low land near Ragged Point about N.W. ofl!" shore nearly 3 leagues, the Blen-
heim's boat liad 15 feet, rocks, on a shoal bearing E. by N. from the ship.
Sand Banks. Between the Little Pater Nosters and these shoals there are two dry sand-banks,
bearing about E. by S. from those close to Ragged Point, with coral reefs near them,
where the Resolution, Friendship, and other ships have grounded, and which render
the passage outside these shoals very unsafe. H. M. S. Blenheim, with a fleet, by
keeping too far in the offing between Great Pulo Laut and Ragged Point, got over-
falls on coral banks, and saw several dangers, on one of which the Henry Addington
grounded, as mentioned above, and the Blenheim narrowly escaped getting upon
another.
Hannah Shoal. Hannah Shoal appears to be a new discovery made by the ship of this name
MACASSAR STRAIT. 555
September •22nd, 1829, in returning from China tijroiigli the Strait of Macassar; for
the position assigned to it diflers from that of any of the other dangers adjacent to
Ragged Point. When at anchor with this point bearing W.N.W. a little westerly, the
shoal bore S. E. about 3f miles, with breakers on it, and it is distant about 20 miles
from Ragged Point, the situation of the shoal by noon observation being in lat. 2° 17'S.,
Ion. 1 17° 2' E., by chronometers.
Although several ships have passed outside these shoals without discerning any of
them, it is nevertheless dangerous sailing here during the night, without much care is
taken to avoid the dangers ; for the soundings in some places are irregular, and not a
certain guide when the depths are more than 10 or 12 fathoms. Under these depths
the soundings are more regular towards the edge of the mud-bank that stretches along
the shore from Pulo Laut to Ragged Point ; for in standing on it, the water shoals in
most parts very gradually to 6, 5, or 4^ fathoms. Therefore, the best channel is
within 2 leagues of the shore, inside the shoals, in soundings from 8 to 13 fathoms;
and when Ragged Point is approached, the depth of II to 13 fathoms ought to be pre-
served, if a ship is under sail in the night, to avoid the outer shoals, and those adjoining
Ragged Point. This is the narrowest part of the channel, being bounded on the inside
by two small sand-banks, at a short distance from each other, and 2 or 3 miles distant
from Ragged Point ; the outermost bearing S. E. from the point. These two sand-
banks are probably covered in very high tides, but in passing, a small patch of white
sand above water is generally visible on each of them. Working from Shoal Point to
these sand-banks, stand off to 13 or 14 fathoms in the day, and towards the shore to 7
or 6 fathoms: when near them, keep in 9 to 13 fathoms until abreast Ragged Point,
and do not deepen above 17 or 18 fathoms until 4 or 5 leagues to the N. Eastward of
that point.
The Little Pater. Nosters, called by the Malays Balabalakan (the name of i-Utie Pater
the easternmost island), consist of an extensive group of 13 small isles, with banks of '^"''^'"s.
coral and sand above and under water, scattered among and around them. The
southernmost isle is in about lat. 2°50'S., the N. Easternmost in lat. 2°10'S., Ion.
117° 58' E., and the N. Westernmost in lat. 2° 8' S., Ion. 117° 42' E.,* or 54 miles East
from Ragged Point by chronometers. On these two isles there is fresh water; they
are all with low trees on them, and ought to be avoided, being dangerous to approach.
The True Briton, coming from southward, got among them, and as the numerous shoals
seemed to preclude any safe passage through, she was obliged to return by the track
she entered, after a delay of several days.
The N. Western and Western isles ought not to be approached so near as to be
discernible from the mast-head, for they are fronted by sand-banks, witii dangerous
coral spits projecting out 7 or 8 leagues. Returning from China in the Anna, we
made the N. E. isle in July, 1792, steered to the westward, keeping 4 or 5 leagues off
the isles, and got ground 34 to 14 fathoms, coral rock, when the N. Westernmost isles
were in sight from the top, bearing South. Continuing to steer westward for the
coast of Boineo, we had great overfalls, from 30 and 40 to 5 or 5^ fathoms on the coral
banks. When two of the N. Western isles were in sight from the mast-head, bearing
about S.E., nine dry sand-banks, with a few bushes on two of them, were seen bearing Sand Banks.
from South to S. E. by S., distant 7 or 8 miles ; passed then over some spits of 5 and
5^ fathoms, the bright coral rocks under the bottom having a dangerous appearance ;
and some of the patches were thought to have very little water on them.
• Captain Heywood made the N. E. and N.W. isles in the same latitude, and by chronometers exactly in
the longitude above given.
4 B 2
566
BIACASSAR STRAIT.
Directions for
avoiding the
banks.
Passier Road
and River.
Pamaroong
Island, and
adjacent coast.
Dry sand-
bank.
Tides.
distant about 3 leagues to the
At noon, observed lat. 2° 6' S., the land of Borneo visible from the deck, bearing
W. by S. iS., when two of the westernmost isles in sight from the mast-head were on
with the body of the sand-banks, bearing about S. by E. ; at this time, deepened to
40 fathoms, afterwards had no ground at 50 fathoms. Steered 2 miles to the westward,
and got ground 36 fathoms, the depth then regularly decreasing, over a bottom of mud
and gravel, to 20 fathoms, when Ragged Point was seen from the mast-head bearing
W. S. W. about 8 leagues.
The northernmost sand-banks . are in lat. 2° 7' S.
westward of the nearest isle.
To avoid these dangerous coral banks, a ship coming from northward ought not to
cross the parallel of lat. 2° S. until she is well in with the coast of Borneo, in 20 or
18 fathoms. If leaving Ragged Point, she ought not to stand oft' shore to more than
20 or 22 fathoms, until she is to the northward of the same parallel : and then the
strait is clear from side to side.
Pa.ssier River (the entrance), in about lat. 1° 54' S., is situated near the bottom
of the bay, about 6^ leagues N. Westward from Ragged Point; the anchorage is in
4^ or 5 fathoms, 3 or 4 leagues oft' shore, to the northward of the river. There are
some shoals in the south part of the bay, betwixt Ragged Point and the river, to avoid
which, ships bound to Passier should get into the latitude of the anchorage before they
approach near the shore, and steer West for it. The town is 6 or 7 leagues up the
river, and supplies may be got there in case of necessity; but small ships must be
guarded against any attack, as several ships have been cut oflT at Passier and other
paits of this strait.
At the N.N. part of the bay is the wide entrance of Passier Lama, or Old Passier;
and all the land is low and woody close to the sea, but hilly in the country.
Pamaroong Island, or Dondrekin (the south point), is in lat. 0° 54' S., Ion.
11 7° 36' E., by lunar observations and chronometers, bearing from Ragged Point about
N. 32° E., distant 30 leagues ; and it is the southern extremity of the long, low island
named as above, separated from the coast of Borneo by a narrow channel, appearing
like the mouth of a river, when viewed from southward. Gooty Town lies far inland
from hence, as already mentioned in a note at the beginning of this section.
About mid-way betwixt Passier Bay and this place the coast forms Baleekpappan
Bay, and near the sea is low and woody, with several detached mountains inland, one
of which is called Baleekpappan Peak : along this part of the coast the depths are
25 to 30 fathoms about 4 or 5 leagues oflT, decreasing gradually towards the shore.
From the south point, Pamaroong Island stretches about 10 leagues to N.N.E. and
northward, having several indentations or small inlets on its eastern side, and is fronted
by a reef which surrounds the outer parts of the island. The depths decrease regularly
over a muddy bottom to the edge of the reef, at the southern parts of the island ; but
to the northward there is deep water near it. A dry sand- bank, in lat. 0° 52' S.,
lies about 2 miles distant from the S. E. part of the island, on which the Betsey and
Experiment grounded in the night. The fleet bound to China in 17.99 anchored here,
December 12th, and the boats found the depth decrease regularly to the sand-bank,
which may be approached occasionally to 10 or 12 fathoms. It extends N. E. by E.
and S.W. by W. about two-thirds of a mile, but at high water spring tides is not dry
more than 50 yards across, for the water rises at those times 8 or 9 feet.
The freshes from the rivers on this coast carry large drifts of trees into the strait,
which frequently appear at a considerable distance like vessels under sail, or small
floating islands.
MACASSAR STRAIT. — CURRENTS. 557
To the northward of Paraaroong Island there are no soundings along- the coast of
Borneo, in the great bight between it and Point Kanneeoongan, except very close to
the shore ; and the coast in this part is seldom approached.
Having passed Ragged Point, steer towards the south end of Pamaroong Island, keep- to sail from
ing along the coast in soundings of Itj or 18 fathoms, which will increase to 25 and toX'nonh"'
30 fathoms as you proceed to the northward, and the deptiis are 28 or ^O fathoms waru^"""'
about 4 leagues off the south end of the island. With a steady S. E. wind, you may
keep farther out, to give a good berth to this island ; for, excepting the reef and sand-
bank contiguous to it, the strait is clear of danger from side to side, to the northward
of lat. 2° 0' S.
Tanjong Kanneeoongan, in about lat. ]°o'N., Ion. 119° 10' E., is the extremity Point Kan-
of a narrow peninsula of high even land, which extends nearly 20 leagues eastward "eeoongan.
from the other land of Borneo ; and the north entrance of the Strait of Macassar,
formed between it and Cape Donda, is about 17 leagues wide. Contiguous to the
point there are two small isles, and another isle of middling height, covered with trees, circumjacent
about 2| leagues off the land, on the south side of the peninsula, having a safe channel is'es and coast.
betwixt it and the shore. No soundings are obtained here, nor within 1 or 2 miles of
the coast to the southward and westward of the point. On the south side of this
peninsula no southerly current is experienced when it is running strong into the strait
outside, there being an eddy under it, similar to that under Cape Temoel on the oppo-
site coast.
To the northward of Point Kanneeoongan, about 3 leagues distant, there is a small
isle with a conspicuous beach ; and in the same direction the Bomige or Haring Isles
lie, in about lat. 1° 48' N. ; these are two small isles, near and on with each other, st. John and
bearing VV. 14° N. The body of the large island Maratua, or St. John, is said to bear ^'^""k i^ics.
about N. by E. \ E. from Point Kanneeoongan, extending from lat. 2° N. nearly on
the meridian, to lat. 2° 24' N. The Jason snow passed inside of it and the isles con-
tiguous, in 1774, and found soundings near the coast of Borneo to the westward of
Haring Isles, with several other isles and shoals fronting the coast: but the whole of
the coast, embracing the great concavity between Point Kanneeoongan and Unsang,
in which are several bays, with groups of small islands fronting it in some places, is
little known to Europeans.
St. John and Haring Islands were formerly placed in a N. N. Westerly direc-
tion from Point Kanneeoongan ; but Captain Forbes, on his passage from Manila
towards Boston in June, 1829, passed near these islands, and describes them as fol-
lows : — June 7th, with the wind at eastward, made St. John Island early in the morn-
ing, and passed along the edge of apparent shoal water, which connects the ticn
Haring Islands, just weathering tlie latter. St. John Island (eastern part) bears from
Point Kanneeoongan N. by E. | E., and this island, or group of islands, is connected
with Haring Islands by a well-defined line of green water, having some dry patches
upon it. By a good observation taken near Haring Islands, made them in lat. 1° 50' N.,
and bearing North a little easterly from Point Kanneeoongan, distant 43 or 45 miles:
they are two small low islands, separated 1^ or 2 miles from each other, but connected
by green water, aj)parently shoal, and are in a transit line bearing E. by S. and
\V. by N.
CURRENTS.
THE CURRENTS in tlie Strait of Maca.ssar run more fretpiently to the soutli- cuim.-.^.
ward than in the opposite direction : from Novemlier to April, particularly in January
558
PASSAGE FROM MACASSAE STRAIT INTO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
and February, the current runs with great strength in that direction, abating generally
in March. During the Southerly Monsoon, from April to September or October,
there is frequently a weak current setting through to the southward, in opposition to
the wind which then blows into the southern part of the strait from S. S. E. or
S. Eastward. This southerly current is not so prevalent at the north entrance of the
strait; for a N. E. current is often experienced about Cape Donda or Cape Rivers, in
the Southerly Monsoon, although the currents and winds may be considered variable
during that season.
Some ships have experienced a current setting into the strait on the east side of Pulo
Laut, during the Southerly Monsoon ; but ships which sail tolerably seldom find much
difficulty in working round the island in that season, for in general the current is
weak, and sometimes it runs to the southward.
In October, November, and December, the current sometimes sets through the strait
to the northward, particularly in October; but it has been found in some years to set
•southerly in INovemberand December. October is the best month for ships proceed-
ing through the strait, when bound by the eastern passage to China; November and
paVt of December is also reckoned a favourable season ; but the passage through this
strait ought never to be attempted in January or February, nor probably after the
beginning or middle of December.
PASSAGE FROM THE STRAIT OF MACASSAR, BETWEEN
MINDANAO AND CELEBES, INTO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN.
Currents be-
tween Min-
danao and
Celebes.
THE CURRENT runs mostly in from the Pacific Ocean, between Mindanao and
Celebes, to the westward or S. Westward, in both monsoons; but near the land it
changes at times and sets to the eastward, particularly near the north coast of Celebes
an easterly set is frequently experienced in October or November, and sometimes in
December.
Betwixt the easternmost of the Sooloo Islands and the south end of Mindanao the
current is liable to great changes ; when setting sometimes 2 miles per hour to the
westward it suddenly abates and runs equally strong to the eastward ; at other times
there is little or no current. Ships which steer from Cape Rivers for the south end of
Mindanao are generally delayed by light winds and calms when they approach the
latter, and meeting a S. Westerly current about the Serangani Islands, they are
frequently drifted to the southward as far as Sangir, or even to Siao, before they can
get through any of the channels between the islands.
Those w hich endeavour to make a direct course from Cape Rivers to Sangir or Siao,
and then proceed through any of the contiguous channels, will generally make their
passage much quicker than the former. It was formerly the practice to approach the
coast of Mindanao, in order to counteract the S.W. current, and to be enabled to give
CELEBES, NORTH COAST AND ISLANDS. 659
a good berth to the north end of Morty, with the prevailing N.E. winds : but there is
seldom any difficulty experienced in getting round the north cape of Morty,* even in
ships which pass to the southward of Siao; because an eddy current sets sometimes
out of the Molucca Passage to N. Eastward, whilst among the islands adjacent to
Mindanao the current is running to S. Westward.
In September, October, November, and December, favourable passages have been
made from Cape Rivers to Sangir and Siao, and from thence to the northward of
Morty ; which tract seems preferable to the circuitous route by the coast of Min-
danao.
THE NORTH COAST OF CELEBES is in general high bold land, and in
most parts may be approached within a few miles ; but ships ought to keep well out
from it, unless they intend to touch at Manado for refreshments. This is a bay and Manado,
village in about lat. 1° 2W N., situated on the west side of the N. E. end of Celebes, ^f cefewr
having a group of islands fronting them to the northward. There is anchorage in this
bay, and the Dutch have a resident at the village, the natives here being more
hospitable than those who inhabit the western coast. Rice is exported from Manado
to the Molucca Islands, the adjacent country being productive in that grain.
Kema village, in lat. 1° 22' N., Ion. 125° 19' E., by chronometers, situated on the Kema.
east side of Celebes, nearly opposite Manado, has also good anchorage in the road, in
10 or 12 fathoms, with Mount Klobat bearing N. 36° W., and the Sisters N. 28° E.,
about a mile off shore; the depth i'rom thence gradually decreasing to the village,
where good water and other refreshments may be procured. About .5 miles N. E. of
Kema lies the south entrance of the Strait of Limbe, where shelter from S. E. winds
and good ancliorage are found, when these winds blow into Kema Road. The tides
rise 5 or feet here, and contiguous to the N. E. part of Celebes.
The Strait of Limbe, formed betwixt the Island Great Limbe and the contiguous strait of
N. E. part of Celebes, is very narrow and intricate in the midille, where there is an ^""'"'•
island encircled by a reef, which occasions an eddy or whirlpool ; and the tides being
very strong, render the passage through the strait not advisable in a large vessel. Close
on the west side of this strait rises the highest peak of the Sisters, which with tlie
contiguous mountains, are very conspicuous in passing near the N. E. end of Celebes.
The southernmost of these, called Mount Klobat, may be seen about 30 leagues.
BANCA ISLAND, in about lat. 1° 52' N., Ion. 125° 24' E., by the chronometers and i?anca; n.igh-
lunar observations of Captain Hey wood, corresponding with those of otiier navigators, a,'Jd"iiaiineis. ^
fronts the N. E. point of Celebes, having other islands near it to the westward ; this
group lies betwixt the north part of the Strait of Limbe and the islands that front
Manado Bay. Banca is hilly, and of middling height; one of the islands to the
westward is flat table land, while another has a high peak on it; the latter is the
northernmost of the group off Manado Bay. Betwixt the Celebes shore and these
islands there is a safe channel, called Banca .Strait, leading from the north entrance
of the Strait of Limbe to the anchorage in Manado Bay.
The extreme point of Celebes is called Cape Coffin, and the whole of the islands
* Indifferently sailing ships have in some seasons been retarded two or three days in gettin<i round, when
brisk N. E. wiiids prevailed, with a considerabli- swell ajrainst them : others often get quickly round: the
Sulivan passed to the southward of Si.io December lltli, 1792, had an easterly current of 3 16' from Cape
Donda, which continued till in lat. C N., lim. 1.S.5" E., on the i-'Oth, being set in nine days from Siao 4.^ 3i' to
the eastward of account, or nearly H' after leaving Cape Donda.
5G0
ISLANDS NEAR THE NORTH-EAST PART OF CELEBES.
that stretch from it to Manado Bay, forming the Strait of Banca, are sometimes called
Banca Islands.
Bcjaren Island
and channel.
BEJAREN ISLAND, in lat. 2° 6' N., distant about 5 or 6 leagues N. Eastward
from Banca, is of moderate height, terminating in a peak at the summit. The chan-
nel betwixt it and Banca appears to be 4 or 5 leagues wide, safe for large ships ; and
it is the southernmost channel* amongst the chain of islands, situated between the
N. E. end of the Celebes and the South Point of Mindanao.
'ragolanda
Island and
channel.
TAGOLANDA ISLAND, in about lat. 2° 23' N., Ion. 125° 36' E., bearing from
the north part of Bejaren about N. | E., distant 4 or 5 leagues, has a high conical
peak, and is of considerable extent; it is fronted by the Island Roang on the S.W.
side, and by the low level Island Fassig on the west side; these lie at a small distance.
The channel between Bejaren and "^J'agolanda is 2^ or 3 leagues wide, and clear of
danger ; tlie Hope passed through it in 1806, and other ships which have fallen to
leeward of Tagolanda have proceeded by it at various times. The north end of Tago-
landa is in about 2° 27' N.
Siao Island
and channel.
Saiigir.
Watering place
and anchorage.
SIAO is an island of greater extent than Tagolanda, and is rendered very con-
spicuous by a high conical volcanic peak, in lat. 2° 43' N., Ion. 125° 35^' E., by the
chronometers and lunar observations of Captain Heywood. About 3 leagues' dis-
tance from the west side of Siao lies the small island Makalara, and on the east side
lies Mandang, with other contiguous isles ; some rocks also project from the S.W. point
of Mandang, betwixt whicii and the S. E. point of Siao there is an opening, about a
mile wide. When the east end of Makalara was on a transit line with the N.W. point
of Siao, they bore E. 20° N., the south extreme of Siao bearing East.
The S. E. point of Siao is in about lat. 2° 40' N., bearing N. ^ VV. about 13 miles
from the N. E. point of Tagolanda ; the channel between tliem, being 3 or S^ leagues
wide and clear of danger, is much frequented by ships proceeding to the eastward.
SANGIR, or SANGUEY, bearing from Siao about N. by E. ^ E., distant 12 or
13 leagues, extending from lat. 3° 21' J\., nearly in a N. N.W. direction, to lat
3° 4t)' N., is of moderate height at the southern part, but the land is formed of high
mountains to the northward. There is said to be a harbour on the east side, formed
by the adjoining small isles, several of which are at a considerable distance from
Sangir; cimtiguous to the southern part there are other islands. The western side is
indented by several small bays, with soundings of from 40 to 60 fathoms, about 1 and
2 miles ofl^ shore ; and it is clear of danger, but the bottom is mostly coral There is
a small river or watering place in a bay situated in lat. 3° 28' N., Ion. 125° 44' E. by
chronometers and lunar observations ; here ships may anchor about a mile oft" shore,
in from 50 to 60 fathoms, with a light anchor, and procure poultry and vegetables from
the native inhabitants of the adjacent habitations, the islands being cultivated in many
places.
The Royal Charlotte anchored with the kedge in 58 fathoms, abreast a village
bearing N. 70° E., the piece of land like an island, but joined to the main island,
N. 45° E., distant 1| miles; a point of land N. 2° E., distant 3 or 4 miles; north-
It M.S. Imperieuse, with a convoy from Malacca Strait bound to Amboina, worked through this channel
in the night, November 9th, 1800, then proceeded through the Molucca Passage, and arrived on the 21st at
Amboina.
ISLANDS BETWEEN MINDANAO AND CELEBES. 561
western extreme N. 20° W. ; the point of an island off the south end of Sangir
S. 36° E., and the body of the westernmost Passage Island South; the watering river
was then a little to the southward of the land resembling an inland.*
The tides run to the northward and southward along this side the island about Tides.
2 miles per hour, and rise G or 7 feet. Long boats should go into the river about a
quarter flood, to get filled and clear of it before high water, for the ebb runs out quick,
and will soon leave the boats aground.
KARAKITA, or PASSAGE ISLANDS, consist of four or five islands, and Karakita.or
several rocky islets, lying betwixt the south end of Sangir and Siao, which separate lal^ds'and*
the channel into two branches. The westernmost Passage Island, or Karakita, is ciianneu.
high, and the eastern one, called Pala, projects out on a low point to the eastward ;
the channel betwixt these islands and the south end of Sangir is 3 or 3^ leagues wide,
and clear of hidden danger to ships keeping nearest to Karakita, as islets and rocks
lie near the Sangir shore to the westward of its south point, not easily seen in the
night. The channel betwixt the Passage Islands and Siao is considered dangerous
in the night: the fleet bound to China, steering through it November 19th, 1807,
when the weather cleared up at 11 p.m., saw the land ahead, and on both bows ex-
tending from N. N. E. to four rocky islets bearing E. S. E. ; they then hauled oflT
S. E. until close to Siao, and passed to the southward of the rocks about the distance of
1^ miles. These four rocks lie about N. by E. from Siao, nearly mid-way between it
and the nearest of the Passage Islands, one of which is called the Quoin. The north
end of Siao must be borrowed on pretty close to avoid them, but the channel to the
southward of that island is preferable in the night. The David Scott, January 4th,
1811, passed to the North of Siao in the night, within 2 miles of the southernmost
Passage Island, and saw lights on them. Ships having approached Sangir, may
either proceed to the northward or southward of the island, as seems most eligible ; if To sail be-
the latter route be pursued, they ought to haul close round the south end of Sangir, to LTandsand
be enabled with the N. E. wind to weather the rocky islets bounding the south side of sangir.
the channel, particularly as a S. W. current may often be expected.
The easternmost of these islands on the south side the passage, called the Rabbit, or Rabbit island
Haycock, is 5 or 5^ leagues to the south-eastward of the south end of Sangir, and
nearly due South of the outer island that fronts the east side of Sangir. There are
two small islets or rocks to the eastward of the Rabbit, and others to the westward ;
several of them are small .spiral rocks, and some appear like haycocks.
The Walsingham, December 7th, 1793, fell to the southward of Karakita, and pushed
through between the second and third islands to the southward of Sangir. At noon,
observed lat. 3° 9' N., Siao Peak bearing S. 9° W., an island S. 63° W., another
S. 4° W. to S. 23° E., one N. 37° E. to E. 4° S., one N. 25° E., oneN. 8° >V. to
N. 16° W., Sangir North to N. N. E., and rocks ahead, bearing S. E. by E. i E., distant
3 or 4 leagues ; the current setting strong E. S. £. This seems an intricate narrow^
passage which the Walsingham went through, and ought not to be chosen ; for, there
• The Royal Charlotte and Ciiffnells watered with their long: boats in the river without difficulty, whilst
they remained here, February 17th and 18th, 1800. The Cuffiiells anchored in 60 fathoms with the mouth of
the river bearing E. by N. 2 miles, distant U miles from the point that forms the north side of the bay. The
Woodford, January 26th, 1795, anchored here, and got plenty of poultry and fruit in exchange for coloured
handkerchiefs, knives, &c., but she lost eleven casks in attempting to water; by which it appears that there is
a considerable surf beating on the shore at times.
VOL. II. 4 c
and rocks.
562
ISLANDS BETWEEN MINDANAO AND CELEBES.
Small Isles be-
tween Sangir
and Mindanao.
Lonisu Shoal.
Serangani
Islands.
Tulour
Islands.
being no soundings near these rocks or islands, a ship is liable to be drifted upon some
of them by the currents, during light airs or calms.
There is a CHAIN OF SMALL ISLANDS, extending from the north end of
Sangir in a northerly direction to the south end of Mindanao, having several safe
channels among them. Some of these, which front the north end and N. E. side of
Sangir, are only islets or rocks high above water ; to the westward of an island that bears
N. by W., about 4 or 5 leagues from Sangir, the Louisa Shoal is situated.
There is a good channel outside the isles adjoining the N. E. part of Sangir ; but
caution and a strict look-out is requisite in the night, when passing near or among
any of these rocky islets. The northernmost isles of this chain, called Obtuse Cone,
Flat Island, Broken Island, and Three Hill Island, lie directly to the southward of the
Serangani Islands, having a safe channel between them and the latter.
THE SERANGANI ISLANDS, distant 4 or 5 leagues off the south point of Min-
danao (called sometimes Serangani Point), consist of two considerable islands extending
from lat. 5° 20' to 5° 31' N., and the high peak on the westernmost is in Ion. 125° 32' £.
by chronometers, bearing about South from the south point of Mindanao. These two
islands lieE. N. E. and W. S.W. of each other, and the easternmost, which is by much
the lowest, has a hill on its south end : there are soundings on the N. E. side of the
westernmost island, and also contiguous to the north end of the other, in the passage
betwixt it and the small island Linitan ; but none in the channel between them and
Mindanao. Linitan is a small, low i.sland, distant about 3 miles to the northward of
the eastern Serangani Island, and has a reef projecting from its north and south points
a little way, and also to the eastward.
Captain J. Hunter, the late Admiral Hunter, anchored at the Serangani Islands in
1791, returning from Port Jackson; and the VVaaksamheyd snow, in which he and
the crew of H. M. S. Sirius were passengers, was assaulted by the natives, from a mis-
understanding between the master of the vessel and the Rajah of the place.*
THE TULOUR, or SALIBABOO ISLANDS, are of considerable size, and
moderately elevated, being three in number, with some contiguous small isles. Kab-
ruang, the southernmost island, has a peaked mount on it, and its south end is in lat.
3°47'N., Ion. 127° ll'E., by Captain Balston's chronometers, in 1816, measured from
LombockPeak; and it bears East from the north end of Sangir, distant about 28
leagues. Salibaboo or Lirog, to the N. Westward of Kabruang, has on it a table hill ;
and on the east side, fronting Kabruang, the bay and road of Salibaboo is situated,
having irregular soundings of 10 to 20 fothoms, rocky bottom, near the shore, and from
20 to 40 fathoms, sand, about 1 or 1^ miles off.
By apian of these islands drawn by Captain W. Greig, who visited them during a
trading voyage from Bengal, it appears that the small harbour at the bottom of Sali-
baboo Bay, called Leron Harbour by Captain Forrest, is called Salibaboo by the
natives. Sailing in for the road by the South Channel, betwixt Kabruang and the
Point of Salibaboo, a berth must be given to a spit that projects rather more than half
a mile from the shore, about half-way betwixt the point and harbour, on which the
water shoals from 7 to 3 fathoms. The harbour is easily known by the houses and
coco-nut trees, but seems not adapted for large vessels : the best anchorage in the road,
* The inhabitants of these, and the other islands near the coast of Mindanao, are of hostile and treacherous
character.
TULOUR ISLANDS, 563
is from 15 to 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, about a mile off shore; for farther in, tlie
bottom is rocky in some places.
From the N. E. point of the island a spit projects, with 30 or 33 fathoms near it;
which depths continue round the point, close along the north side of the island to the
village called Leron by the natives, which stands 1^ or 2 miles to the north-westward
of that point, and fronts the south end of Tulour. There are two small islands off this
village, where it is said ships may anchor in safety betwixt them and the village ; but
probably this is too confined an anchorage for large ships, except in a case of necessity:
at the village of Leron a ship may get supplied with hogs, goats, fowls, sweet potatoes. Supplies.
and coco-nuts, at a cheap rate. The natives seem civil, and prefer old iron, coarse red
handkerchiefs, and coarse white cloth, to dollars. The natives of Karkalang seera
also friendly, and here vegetables and other refreshments may likewise be procured ;
and there is a safe channel betwixt this and the other islands to the north-east-
ward.
Tulour or Karkalang, the largest and northernmost island, extends nearly 9 leagues
North and South, or from lat. 4° 0' to about lat. 4° 27' JN ., and, as well as the others, is
inhabited. The northern part of this island is said to be lined with a dangerous reef,
which projects several miles from the north extj-emity, and from the shores con-
tiguous to that part. In about lat. 4-° 10' N., and 8 or 9 leagues westward of Karka-
lang, there is said to be some rocks, seen in 1788 by the Iphigenia.
NORTHUMBERLAND SHOAL, to the south-eastward of the island Kabruang, Norti.umb«-
is in the track of ships which approach the south end of this island, after having '*"'' ^''°^'"
rounded the north end of Sangir. The Northumberland, Captain Rees, with the
fleet bound to China, saw this shoal, January 31st, 1796, at 4 p.m. ; the breakers bear-
ing then from S. 70° E. to S. 87° E., distant 4 or5 miles, and the south point of Kabru-
ang N. 27° E. about 7 or 8 miles. On the middle of the breakers, a small patch of
sand appeared above water, and the extent of the shoal is about 2 miles N. N.W. and
S. S. E., bearing from the south point of Kabruang S. 14° E., distant 10 or 11 miles.
The journal of the Warren Hastings, in company, states the shoal to be only 2 or 3
leagues distant from the south point of Kabruang ; but Captain Greig says it is about
12 miles' distance, in a S. E. direction from the peak. He rounded the south end of
Kabruang at the distance of half a mile ; and the Glatton passed betwixt the island
and the shoal in the night, without knowing of its existence !
THE MEANGIS, or MENANGUS, a group of islands, in about lat. 5° N., Ion. Meangis
127° 45' E., distant 12 or 14 leagues to the north-eastward of the Tulour Islands, con- ''"""'
sists of three considerable islands of moderate height, with some smaller ones adjoining,
being the easternmost of those that lie to the southward of Mindanao. There are said
to be soundings amongst the largest islands in the narrow channels by which they are
separated, but they are little known to English navigators. As, by the account of
Captain Hunter, there is a small isle to the northward, and others betwixt this group
and the Tulour Islands, besides another high island in kit. 5° 33' N., said to be distant
about 12 leagues to the eastward of the latter, a good look-out is indispensable in these
parts, for the number and positions of the islands are not correctly known. At p.m.,
June 22nd, 1813, the Volunteer passed the Meangis Islantis, bearing S. by E. about (i
leagues, at the same time a high rock or isle like a haycock bore N. by W ., but no
other islands were seen in steering to the eastward. The Meangis are said to produce
cloves.
4 c 2
564
MINDANAO, SOUTH COAST.
Mindanao
South Point.
Tides.
Cape St.
Augustine.
Eays on tlie
south coast of
Mindanao.
Town.
Caution.
Supplies.
THE SOUTH POINT OF MINDANAO is in lat. 5° SO' N. ; the land fronting
it, being high and hilly, may be seen about 12 leagues ; and the channel between it
and those islands is 3 or 4 leagues wide, clear of hidden danger.* The tide flows here
till 7 hours on full and change of moon, and rises 6 feet.
CAPE ST. AUGUSTINE, the S. E. extremity of Mindanao, appears to be in
about lat. 6°4'N., Ion. 126° 48' E., and from thence northward, the east coast of that
island is little frequented. There are some bays and harbours on this part of the coast,
one of which is about 16 leagues from the cape, with anchorage in it, but the inhabi-
tants are said to be inhospitable to strangers.
On the south coast, between Cape St. Augustine and Serangani Point, is the large
bay of Tagloc ; and at the bottom of the great bay on the S.W. side, betwixt the south
point and the strait of Baseelan, lies lUana or Bongo Bay, where, on the east side, the
river and town of Mindanao are situated, in about lat. 7° 10' N., Ion. 124^ 35' E. The
anchorage is about 1 or 2 miles off the river, in 10 to 15 fathoms, sand, to the S.E. of
Bunwoot or Bongo Island ; and the town of Mindanao is about 2 miles up the river,
which is narrow, with 10 or 11 feet on the bar, at high water spring tides. Pollock
Cove, about 3 leagues farther to the northward, is a good harbour, where fresh water
may be procured ; but the inhabitants here, and those of the adjacent coast, seem to
be independent of the Rajah of Mindanao, and, being a treacherous race, must be care-
fully watched. Boats' crews landing at any of these places should be well armed, and
the people kept together, and constantly on their guard. f
The depths in the entrance and middle of Pollock Cove are from 45 to 30 fathoms,
decreasing to 20 and 15 fathoms near the southern shore, to the eastward of the reef
that surrounds the point. On the west side of Bongo Bay several rivers fall into the
sea.
There are other small bays or harbours on the south coast of Mindanao, one of which,
called Karaaladan, is situated to the westward of the west point of Bongo Bay, near to
the N. E. end of Pulo Lutangan, a considerable island contiguous to the coast. Sugud-
Boyan Bay, to the north-westward of the Serangani Islands, stretches a great way
inland, having anchorage of 15 or 20 fathoms on the S.W. side, with some streams of
water descending from the hills on the east side ; and there are plains of long grass on
the west side this bay, abounding with deer. To the eastward there is a very high
conical mountain, in about lat. 6° N., discernible from a great distance at sea. The
inhabitants of this coast, and those of the principal islands of the Sangir Chain, subsist
chiefly upon sago, fish, and fruits; but rice, sugar-cane, and pepper, are cultivated in
some places in small quantities. A ship in want of provisions will seldom be able to
* H. M. S. Sybille and Fox, from Samboangan and Bongo Bay, bound to Macao, beat through the channel
between ]\Iindanao and the Serangani Islands, during the day and night of the 13th of February, 1798, and got
no soundings, although they stood pretty close to the shore on both sides of the channel. Captain Waterman,
in the ship Volunteer, touched at the Serangani Islands, June 19, 1813, and found a lagoon of rain water on
the westernmost island, where they filled up, but it was rather brackish ; a small well of good water was found
on the eastern island, where they filled two casks, and procured plenty of fire-wood. The Volunteer appears
to have passed between the islands, as Captain Waterman recommends to avoid the west side in going through,
because that shore is lined by a shoal in the narrowest part, projecting out nearly to mid-channel ; but the
eastern side of the passage is safe.
t In February, 1798, H. M, ships Fox and Sybille touched at Pollock Cove for water, where it is procured
with greater facility than from Mindanao River. The inhabitants pretended friendship and assistance, but
finding the Sybille's boat's crew unarmed, they attacked and killed three of them ; the rest, after being in cap-
tivity about a year, were ransomed by the humanity of Captain Lynch, who touched at Mindanao in a trading
voyage to the eastward, and were carried by him to Amboina.
MOLUCCAS. 565
procure a sufficient supply : poultry, hogs, and goats, may be got at some of the islands,
but it is thought that bullocks and rice are only to be had in sufficient quantity at
Sooloo.
A ship from Baseelan Strait, bound into the Pacific Ocean, may steer a direct Directions for
course for the Serangani Islands, if the wind be favourable, and pass betwixt them and ^ardf^^^
Mindanao, or to the southward of them, as circumstances require. From hence she
may steer out between the Meangis and Tulour Islands, to be able to clear the north
cape of Morty with north-easterly winds ; but if any difficulty appear in pursuing this
route, she may pass betwixt the Tulour Islands and Sangir, and then haul to the east-
ward.
Ships from the Strait of Macassar, having passed through the channel betwixt Siao
and Tagolanda, or through any of those contiguous to Sangir, should steer to the east-
ward, to give a berth to the north end of Morty ; and to effect this purpose, those ships
which have passed through any of the channels to the southward of Siao ought to haul
to north-eastward, if the winds admit. If N. E. winds prevail, with a current setting
to the southward, it will be found difficult to prevent getting sight of tiie north part of
Gillolo and Morty, or even, perhaps, of the two islands Meyo and Tyfore, situated in
the north entrance of the Molucca Passage : but here, the southerly current generally
abates, and a northerly one is often experienced, setting out along the west coast of
Gillolo. It is, however, prudent to give a good berth to the northern extremities of
that island and Morty, when it can be done without much loss of time, for the current
sometimes sets to the southward in the vicinity of those islands ;* and there is a swell
generally from north-eastward.
MORTY, or MORTAY ISLAND (the north cape), in lat. 2° 44' N., Ion. Morpr North
1-28° 25' E., measured by chronometers from Siao, slopes down from the high table ^^^'
land into a point that forms the cape. This island extends 12 or 13 leagues to the
southward, the land mostly high, of an even appearance; and the north coast about
the cape is lined by a reef, projecting 1 or 2 miles out, having no soundings close to,
with some small isles adjoining. Riow Island is situated at a small distance from the
west coast, betwixt which and the north end of Gillolo is formed the north entrance of
the Morty Strait. In 1808, there was little or no variation among the islands betwixt
Mindanao and Celebes. In the bay betwixt the N. E. part of Riow and Morty there
is said to be anchorage, with fresh water, plenty of wild hogs, deer, wood-pigeons, &c.,
on the islands conti2;uous.
n
GILLOLO is high bold land, with three high remarkable peaks, discernible when oaioio.
off the N.W. part of the island : the north end is in about lat. 2° 23' N., having several
isles fronting it on the west side, called the Talenading Islands, which are of moderate
height.
MEYO, in lat. 1° 12' N., Ion. 12(f 39' E.,t by chronometer, measured from Siao, is M^o^=^d
a high island, of even appearance, lying in the north entrance of the Molucca Passage,
between Gillolo and the north-eastern extremity of Celebes; and the Island ot
* The Panther was carried into Jlortv Strait bv the current during light winds, then passed through be-
twixt that island and Gillolo to the southward, and i;ot no soundings whilst drit\nig tlirough the strait ; but
the current generally sets through the Molucca Passage to north-eastward .luruig the greatest part of the
'''T Captain C. R. DrinkwaterBethune, of II. M. S. Conway, makes this island in lat. V 18' N., Ion. 126= 32' E.
566 PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE.
Tyfore is in lat. 0° 38' N., Ion. 126=' 27' E., distant about 6 leagues south-west of
Meyo.
Directions for Sliips having I'ounded the north cape of Morty, ought not to exceed lat. 4° N., until
int^oX^Pacific '-^^y ^^^^^ made sufficient easting with the westerly or variable winds, to be expected
Ocean. in low latitudes; for in lat. 4° to 6°N., the verge of the North-east Monsoon will be
approached, where it may be tedious getting to the eastward : in this track, care must
be taken to avoid the low islands, or dangers, described in one of the following sec-
tions. Early in this season it is advisable, more particularly in an indifferently sailing
ship, to make easting sufficient to pass outside the Pellew Islands, or at least to make
the southernmost island, then proceed along the west side of them ; for strong N. E.
winds, with a westerly current, generally prevailing in the track between these islands
and the north end of Luzon, in November, December, and January, would render it
unpleasant to fall to leeward near the coast. It is, therefore, prudent, to keep well to
the eastward in this season, until certain of being able to weather the north end of
Luzon, and the Babuyanes Islands; which having approached, any of the channels
adjoining those islands may be chosen, as circumstances require. Late in February,
or in March, it is not necessary to make so ranch easting, for in these months you may
pass to the westward of the Pellew Islands with safety ; because the N. E. winds are
not so violent, nor the westerly currents so strong.
DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING FROM MACASSAR STRAIT,
TO THE WESTWARD OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
CHANNELS, DANGERS, AND HEADLANDS.
Passage from SHIPS bound to CHINA may be considered too late for the Pitt Passage, if they
tL* westward ^^ ^^* reach Pulo Laut before the 1st March ; in such case they ought to proceed
of the Philip, through the Strait of Macassar and along the west sides of the Philippine Islands,
pine Islands, jjecause the season is then too far advanced for the route by the Pacific Ocean.
Being off Cape Donda in March or April, a course should be steered for the east
end of Baseelan, observing to keep well to the westward when the winds permit, to
prevent being carried among the islands to the S.W. of Sooloo ; for in this season
westerly currents and light easterly winds greatly prevail betwixt Cape Donda and
Baseelan. In case of falling to leeward, there are safe channels among the islands to
the eastward of Sooloo; but as they are little frequented, it may be advisable to send
a boat ahead to sound when passing through any of them.
If a ship can only fetch .Sooloo she may pass round the west end of that island to the
road, then steer from the north side of it about N. N. E. towards the Sangboy Islands,
giving a berth to Takoot Paboonoowan Shoal, which has been described under the
article Sooloo in one of the preceding sections. In proceeding by this route westward
of the Sangboys, continue a boat ahead sounding, for the dangers bounding it on each
side are not well known.
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — BASEELAN ISLAND. 567
THE GRIFFIN ROCKS, where the ship of this name was wrecked, lying Griffin Rocks.
N. by E. about 2 leagues from the small is^land Salleeolakit, and 2^ or 3 leagues
westward of the Sangboys, must have a berth to the eastward, for the sea does not
always break on them. To the south-eastward of Salleeolakit, about 2 leagues distant,
there is another rock, called Bato Balow. The breakers seen by the fleet June 26th,
1795, were probably on this rock, or on some neighbouring danger; there being
several shoals near the small islands westward of the Peelas and Sangboys. This fleet,
bound from China to England, came through the Mindora Sea, passed to the west-
ward of the Sangboys, Peelas, and adjacent islands, and watered at Toolyan Bay, on
the N. E. side of Sooloo. When passing the breakers at 5 miles' distance in the Wood-
ford, they were on with the soutii extreme of Baseelan bearing E. ^ N. ; when on
with the north extreme of Baseelan, they bore N. E. by E. f E., and were on with the
north extreme of Peelas, bearing N. E. by N., a small isle then bearing N. by E. ^ E.,
probably Salleeolakit.
Besides these dangers on the east side the channel, there are several coral shoals on
the edge of soundings to the westward, not well known, making it prudent not to
borrow on that side above 7 leagues to the W. S.W. of the Sangboys ; nor ought these
islands to be approached under 4 or 5 leagues until they bear about East, when a ship
will be clear to the northward of the Griffin Rocks.
If the wind be to the north-westward after a ship is round the west end of Sooloo,
she may steer to the E. N. E. and N. E., and proceed through the Peelas Channel,
which route seems preferable to that last described.
BASEELAN ISLAND, which is high and extensive, is separated from the Baseelan
S.W. end of Mindanao by the Strait of Baseelan, which is a good channel; the ^''*"'*-
eastern extremity of the island is in lat. 6° 30' N., Ion. 122° 30' E., by mean of a series
of lunar observations. If the winds are favourable for approaching it, push through
the strait betwixt Baseelan and Mindanao, which is the shortest passage.*
In the entrance of this strait lie three islands, the southernmost of which, called sailing Direc-
Manalipa or Coco Island, is low, and distant about 5 miles oft" the Baseelan shore. "°"^"
The other, called Sibago, bearing about N.W. by W. from the former, is high, with
low land projecting from the hill ; and near it to the eastward lies the third island,
with low land projecting from its high hill. These two islands, being near each
other, appear as one Saddle Island when viewed in some bearings.f
If a ship happen to be in the morning near the small low island Tabtaboon, lying to
the eastward of Samboangan, she will sometimes get a land breeze oft" the Mindanao
shore, wiiich may probably carry her through the strait before niglit, if the tide be
favourable; but the winds are often light and variable at North and westward. The
coast of Mindanao may be a]>proachcd pretty close, the bank that lines it being steep
to, and projects only to a small distance: there is no danger in the eastern part of the
strait, and there are soundings along the Baseelan side, of various depths, from 10 to
* Ships are liable to experience strong currents at times near Baseelan. In March, we had in the Anna a
very strontr easterly current two days, then it suddenly changed and set to the westward, by which we were
drifted to The southward of the island, and obliged to pass round it on that side. Departing t'rora Baseelan in
July for Jlacassar Strait, we were set 73 miles to the eastward, and 30 miles to the northward in two days by
the current, which then changed suddenly, and set to the westward about 30 miles daily, until we reached Cape
Rivers. There are irregular tides in Baseelan Strait, sometimes weak and other times strong.
+ Captain C. R. Dtinkwater Bethune, R. N., makes the east end of Baseelan in lat. 6° 41' N., and Ion.
ISiiJ' 17' E. ; Coco Island in lat. 6' 45' N., Ion. 122= 13 E. j and the Eastern Sibago Islet in lat. 4° 46' N., Ion.
122^ 19 E.
568
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — SANTA CBUZ ISLANDS.
SamboangaD.
Anchorage.
Santa Cruz
Islands, and
contiguous
shoals.
Caldera.
Channels
southward of
Baseelan.
35 fathoms, where a ship may anchor occasionally, if she pass betwixt the Islands
Manalipa and Baseelan. There is a large bay a little within the jV. E. point of
Baseelan, where tlie depths decrease from "20 to 11 and 10 fathoms, coarse sand and
rotten coral, towards the Baseelan shore, favourable for anchoring to stop tide; and in
some places the bottom is fine sand to t he northward of the islands. On the south-
east side of Baseelan there appear to be no soundings unless very near the shore ;
within 1^ cables" length of the long low island that fronts it, nearly mid-way betwixt
the eastern part of Baseelan and the Island Boobooan, our boat could get no bottom
with 60 fathoms line ; and about a ship's length from it she got 18 fathoms rocky
bottom.
The Laurel, after rounding the east point of Baseelan, steered into the strait, along
that shore to north-westward, in soundings of 35 to -20 fathoms, and had from 30 to
14 fathoms in working through betwixt Manalipa and Baseelan, where she anchored
part of the night.
SAMBOANGAN, in lat. 6° 43' N., Ion. 122° 14' E., by lunar observations and
chronometers (122° 3' E. by Captain Bethune), is a small Spanish settlement on the
Mindanao shore, north side of the strait, where water and refreshments may be pro-
cured. When at anchor in the road, Baseelan bore from S. 44^ E. to S. 47° W,,
Manalipa and Sibago nearly in one S. 63^° E., the high spire of Samboangan E. 4^° N.,
distant half a mile. This place is protected by a fort regularly built, and well mounted
with ordnance. There is little or no variation here at present. Captain Drinkwater
Bethune, of H. M.S. Conway, while waiting for one of his boats which had been sent
into Samboangan, tacked off the island of Santa Cruz in 9 fathoms: extremes N. ^ E.
and E. 4- ^- The ship was afterwards set by the tide to the eastward within 2 or
3 miles of Manalipa, and got 9, 7, and 5 fathoms, uneven sounding.
THE SAXTA CRUZ ISLANDS, two in number, are small, situated 4 or 5 miles
south-westward of Samboangan. By keeping along the Mindanao shore there is a
safe passage ; but there is said to be great overfalls, with a bank of 4 fathoms, coral
rock, northward of these islands. A bank of coral rock projects also from Santa Cruz
Islands south-westward, on which H. M. S. Sybille grounded in January, 1798. Ships
adopting the large channel betwixt these islands and Baseelan must give a berth in
passing, by not borrowing too close to the islands. To the westward of .Santa Cruz
Islands, the strait is clear from side to side, with soundings of 20 fathoms about
2 miles from the Mindanao shore, deepening to 40 fathoms, no ground, in the offing.
A little inside the S. W. point of Mindanao, which bounds the west entrance of the
strait, there is a place called Dumalan, with the small settlement of Caldera, where
fresh water may be procured. Althou2:h the soundings found in Baseelan Strait are
very irregular, with rocky bottom in many places, there are no known dangers, except-
ing those adjoining the Santa Craz Islands, mentioned above.
THE CHANNELS SOUTH OF BASEELAN appear to be safe, some of which
may be chosen, when the w inds or currents are unfavourable for proceeding northward
through Baseelan Strait. There are safe passages betwixt some of the islands to the
westward of Belawn, but they are not frequented ; a ship proceeding through any of
them must take care of Takoot Saanga, a coral .shoal, distant about 5 miles E. S.
Eastward from Duo Bolod.
The channel betwixt the southern coast of Baseelan and the islands in the offing is
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE, — ISLANDS NEAR BASEELAN, 569
verj' safe, and the least water said to be 9 or 10 fathoms ; but it is not so wide as the
Tapeantana Channel, which is the next to the southward, and better known.
Approaching the islands eastward of Sooloo, care is requisite in the night, on ac-
count of a High Pyramidal Rock, lying about 8 or 10 leagues to the south-eastward High Rock,
of the east end of Sooloo, and about 40 miles East of Sooloo town by chronometers.
TAPEANTATS A CHANNEL, bounded on the north .side by the island of this Tapeantana
name and Lanawan, and by the islands Belawn and Tattaran to the southward, is c"^^"^^-
2^ leagues w ide in the narrowest part, between Lanawan and Tattaran ; but nearly
5 leagues wide at the entrance, betwi.xt the eastern part of Belawn and Tapeantana.
TAPEANTANA ISLAND has a regular peaked high mount on the western part, Tapeantana,
with low land stretching out to the eastward ; the S. E. point is in lat. 6= 14^' N., t^\^„f^"
Ion. 122^ 8' E.,* by lunar observations, taken by Captain Hey wood and myself, cor-
responding within 2 miles of each other. Boobooan Island, a little to the northward
of Tapeantana, is very like it, having a mount of similar shape. Close to the eastward
of these there are some low isles, the largest of which lies off the east side of
Boobooan ; and a reef projects from the north part of Tapeantana towards these
low isles.
BELAWN, t the outermost island on the south side of the channel, is the largest of Beia^™, and
these islands; having a high round mount on its western part, with a long space of adjacent isiets,
low level land, extending several miles to the eastward. The east point of this island
is in lat. 6^ 0' N., bearing nearly South from the east point of Tapeantana. Near the
north part of Belawn, to the eastward of Tattaran, there are two small islets, called
Dipoolool ; and about 2 miles off the N.W. end of Tattaran lies a rock above water.
TATTARAN and LANAWAN are two small islands of middling height; and Tattaran and
until the west end of the latter bear North, there are no soundings in coming from ^"a"^"-
eastward into the channel, ^yhen the current or ebb tide is running eastward, a
ridge or line of strong ripplings appears sometimes like breakers, occasioned by the
stream falling off the edge of the bank into deep water. When soundings are got on Soundings.
the steep edge of the bank, the. water shoals immediately to 10 or 9 fathoms, .soft bot-
tom ; and we found no less in the channel. In the south side of the channel towards
Tattaran, the water is much deeper ; but the bottom there is not so even nor so soft as
in the northern side near Lanawan, which island is about 3 miles to the westward of
Tapeantana.
TAMOOK ISLAND, in lat. 6' 28' N., Ion. 121° 56' E., by lunar observations and Tamook
chronometers, distant 4 or 5 leagues N. Westward from Lanawan, is rather low; the
fair channel is between it and Duo Bolod, two remarkable hummocks about 4 leagues Duo Boiod.
westward from Tattaran.
When a few miles westward of Lanawan the depths increase, and from thence to the
south point of Mataha are irregular, from 2o to 40 fathoms; but from 30 to :io fathoms
are the common soundings in the fair track. The bottom is fit for anchorage, con- Anchoragein
the channel.
• The chronometers made it a little more to the westward by measurement from Cape Donda.
t The fishermen wished to carry the .Anna to the island, where they said we could anchor off a large village,
and be supplied with gootl water and refreshments : but some of tile principal men of the place, who came on
board, seemed to have sinister intentions.
VOL. II. 4 D
570
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. — ISLANDS NEAR BASEELAN.
sisting of sand and gravel, mixed with coral in some places : near the south side of
Tamook there are coral overfalls, and the depths less than at 4 or 5 miles' distance.
Tides. The tides in the channel southward of Tamook set nearly N.W. and S. E. ; the
ebb to the S. Eastward, strongest in the South-west Monsoon, about 2^ and 2 miles
per hour on the springs. This seems also to be the case in the opposite season, for in
March we had the tide setting from 1 to 2 miles per hour to S. Eastward, and onlj' a
short slack when the tlood ought to have been running N. Westward. Having calms
and faint variable airs at this time, we were obliged frequently to remain at anchor,
and were eight days from entering the Tapeantana Channel until we cleared the islands
to the N.W. of Baseelan.
Metaha MATA HA (the south point), in lat. 6° 32' N., Ion. 121° 50' E., by chronometers, dis-
tant about 2 leagues N.W. by W. from Tamook, forms the eastern limit of the entrance
of Peelas Channel, which is bounded by Peelas Island on the west side. Mataha
and the other islands betwixt it and Baseelan are low and woody.
Peelas. PEELAS is the largest of the islands adjacent to Baseelan, being about 2 leagues
in length North and South, all low level land, excepting on the north part are two
hills : contiguous to its eastern shore there is a small isle, called Tagowloo.
BaiiookBai- BALLOOK BALLOOK, in Ion. 121° 50' E., bearing North from Mataha, is a
Channel ^^'^'"^ Considerable island, with a sloping hill at the north part, with low land to the south-
ward; with Mataha it forms the east side of Peelas Channel, which is 4 or 5 miles
wide, and very safe. This channel extends North and South, the tides in it appear
regular and pretty strong during the springs : the soundings are irregular from 25 to
35 or 40 fathoms, and off the south end of Mataha there are 16 or 18 fathoms. About
mid-way between Mataha and Ballook Ballook there is said to be a rock or danger, in
a direct line joining them.
Having passed Tamook, keep nearest to Mataha in entering Peelas Channel to
avoid some shoal coral patches off the south end of the island Peelas, on one of which
the Neptune's boat, in June, 1801, had only 4 fathoms. When through Peelas Chan-
nel, the fair track is directly northward, on the east sides the islands Sanboys and
Teynga, which are safe to approach: and there is a passage with 8 and 10 fathoms
water between them. With a working wind do not stand near the N.W. part of
Baseelan to the eastward of Ballook Ballook, for the Mentor grounded on a shoal in
this situation ; to avoid which, ships that sail through the Inner Channel between the
southern coast of Baseelan and tiie islands should steer from the west point of
Baseelan N. Westward, and borrow towards the N. E. side of Ballook Ballook in
passing.
sangboys. SANGBOYS, in lat. 6° 48|^' N.,* distant about 2| leagues northward of the north
extreme of Peelas, are two high islands close to each other, called sometimes Hare's
Ears. The hill on the South or Great Sandboy resembles a dome, from which low
land projects.
Teynga. TEYNGA, in lat. 6° 52' N., Ion. 121° 43' E., by chronometers, distant about 4 miles
* Observations in H.M.S. Belliqueux, in July, 1807, made these islands several miles farther North. Capt.
Torin, of the Coutts, also made all the islands from Mataha to Teynga about 4 miles farther North than the
latitude stated above.
To sail through
it ; or by the
Inner Channel.
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. 571
N. Eastward of the North Sangboy, and on the meridian of the north end of Peelas, is
small, very low, covered with trees, and it is the northernmost island of the Sooloo
Archipelago ; a reef projects from its southern part a little way, and from the northern
part of the island a rocky shoal extends a great distance N. Eastward, on the ex-
tremity of which the soundings decrease regularly from 15 to 7 fathoms ; and from
hence soundings stretch across to the S. W. part of Mindanao and the Strait of
Baseelan. All these islands abound with wood, but, according to the statement of the These islands
fishermen, excepting Belawn, they are destitute of good water in the dry season. Our goo,! water.
boat could find no water on Tattaran nor on Tamook in March, but there is said to be
some on the latter island during the rains in the S.VV. Monsoon.
MALOZA RIVER, on the S.W. side of Baseelan, in the eastern side of Maloza MaiozaRWer
Bay, bears about N. N. E. from Tamook. The S.E. point of the bay has a tope of
tall trees on it, with two small islands opposite, one of which, called Gowenen, is high,
but not distinguished from the ofBng, being close to the shore of Baseelan. A ship
intending to water at Maloza may anchor near this island, the direct passage for boats
going to the river being betwixt the S. E. point of the bay and the Island Gowenen.
The mouth of the river is fronted by a shoal bar, over which a loaded long boat can
only pass at high water; and we found here l)ut one flood during twenty-four hours. Tide,
high water with the moon on the meridian. The village of Maloza is about a mile
up the river, the entrance of which being narrow, it is not discernible until close to it,
and the trees from each side joining together, and forming a canopy over it, makes the
aspect very gloomy within.
This river is not a good watering place for vessels not well armed ; there are also
many obstructions from trees which have fallen into the river, and it becomes so
narrow a little w ay in, that there is not room to row the oars. If a ship is obliged to
water here, two boats ought to be sent together, if possible, well armed ; and when the
water is observed to be fresh, they ought not to proceed higher, for it is not advisable
to go up to the village of Maloza, on account of the perfidy of the natives.*
Having proceeded about 4 leagues North of the island Teynga, you will have no To sail nonh-^
more soundings in passing along the west coast of Mindanao, which is all bold high co^Jst of'Min/
land, steep to, and should be coasted within a convenient distance. The winds here danao.
in the North-east Monsoon are light and variable from northward ; but when brisk,
they prevail between N. E. and East.
In lat. 7° 25' N., about 7 leagues northward of the S.W. part of Mindanao, called
Alimpapan Point, the Revenge watered in a small bight; but the shore was so steep
that she nearly tailed on the rocks, when in anchoring ground. Port Maria is said to Port Maria,
lie 4 or 5 leagues farther northward, having 30 fathoms water in the entrance, decreas-
ing to 8 or 10 fathoms inside, where fresh water may be got, and shelter from all
• In March, 1793, the Anna's long boat made three trips to this river for water, and twice went up to the
village ; the inhabitants seemed very friendly, and the fisherman we had as guide endeavoured to persuade us to
land, assuring us tliat we would be well treated at the village, that there were only women and children in it,
the men being out fishing. This apparently seemed to be the case, for few men were seen, but plenty of
women came to the boat with fowls, &c., to barter with the crew for handkerchiefs, knives, and trinkets.
I however discovered from one of the boat's crew, who had landed and understood the language, that there
were more than 100 armed men concealed behind the bushes, and he overheard two persons appoint the time
when an attack was to be made on the boat. But fortunately their design was frustrated, for, like true assas-
sins, they had not courage to make the attack, because three Europeans in the boat kept arms constantly in
their hands. The ship Gloucester, of Bombay, about three years after, had two boats cut of!" in attempting to
water at this inhospitable place.
4 D 2
672
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE.
Ualagonaii
Point.
Sailing (lii(C-
tioiis.
Negroi- Island.
Cagayanes
Islands.
winds but those that blow at N.W. and westward, but it is little known to English
navigators.
BALAGONAN POINT, in lat. 7° 51' N., Ion. 122° 24' E., by lunar observations,
is a projecting headland, sloping down into the sea; and Gorda Point, in lat.
8° I' IN., distant about 5 leagues N. Eastward from it, terminates in a small hummock.
The coast of Mindanao trends from thence E. N. Eastward to Galera Point, which is
the western extremity of Sindangan Bay.
The i)assage from Baseelan to the northward along the west side of the Philippine
Islands may be performed at any time of the year in ships which sail well, by keeping
n<ar the west coasts of Mindanao, Negros Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luzon.
In October and part of November, the winds are often to the south-westward and
southward ; and although they prevail from northward during the strength of the
North-east Monsoon, from November to April, yet, under the west sides of the islands
light variable winds are sometimes experienced ; or land and sea breezes, when close
in with the shore. Jn the opening betwixt Mindanao and Negros Island, and be-
twixt Panay and Mindora, brisk N.E. winds generally prevail, with a strong current
setting through tiiese guts to the westward ; although there is seldom any current of
consequence under the lee of the large islands. It is, therefore, prudent to take every
precaution, in crossing those openings, not to fall to leeward ; because it would be un-
pleasant to be drifted off to the Cagayanes Islands, where some dangers exist, and
considerable delay might follow in regaining the windward shore.
Being abreast of Point Balagonan, with a steady S.W. or southerly wind, steer a
direct course for Point Naso, keeping rather a little to the eastward ; if the winds are
unsettled, light, and variable, keep along the coast of Mindanao to Point Galera, or
thereabout, prior to stretching off from that coast for Point Naso ; and in crossing,
endeavour to approach the west coast of Negros Island.
NEGROS, or BUGLAS ISLAND, is high bold land on the west side, and seems
safe to approach. Erom Point Siaton, the southern extremity of the island, in about
lat. 9° 2' N., the west coast stretches nearly N.W. by N. to Point Sojoton, in about lat.
9° 50' N., then taking a N. Easterly direction, a wide opening is formed between it
anrl the south part of Panay. To the northward of Point Siaton the coast forms a
large bay, having a small low island in it, where there is anchorage in 13 fathoms ooze,
in about lat. 9° 15' N.
THE CAGAYANES ISLANDS, lying about 18 leagues to the westward of
Negros Island, and bounding the west side of the [jassage, are two low woody islands
of considerable size, the largest to the westward, and the narrow space between tiiem
is filled with islets and rocks. They are surrounded by a reef, which projects a great
way out from their northern extremity : detached from the easternmost island at 1 or
2 leagues' distance, there is another reef; and to the S. Westward lie the small islands
Caluja and Cavilli, at a considerable distance from each other.
Cavilli Island is a high sand-bank, surmounted with a tuft of trees : breakers
extend from its western side 5 or (i miles, which recjuire a wide bertii, being steep
to ; and, even in a clear night, a ship might be amongst them before the island could
be seen.
When the Cagayanes Islands bore W. by N. about 6 leagues distant, they were just
visible from the deck j the body of them is in lat. 9° 34' N., Ion. 121° 23^' E., by
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — PANAY ISLAND. 673
mean of Captain Heywood's observations and my own, differing 4 miles from each
other. There seems to be an opening in the reef", off the south point of the eastern-
most ishuid, with soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms inside, forming a kind of harbour for
small vessels.
PANAY ISLAND is the next large island to the northward of Negros ; Point Panay isiami.
Naso, or Nasog, its south point, I made in hit. 10° 2-5' N., Ion. 122° (J'E., by a series
of lunar observations, and chronometers corresponding; ;* it is a jjigii bold headland, and
bears from Point Balagonan N. 7°W., distant about 52 leagues. Close to the point,
there are the two low isles, Luegas and Urajarao, with soundings of 5 and (J fathoms in
the gut betwixt it and Luegas, and from 10 to 20 fathoms near the reef that fronts the
N.W. side of this isle.f
Along the S. E. and East coasts of Panay there is a navigable strait, with moderate
depths for anchorage among the numerous small isles; Mr. Dalrymple went through
this strait with the schooner Cuddalore in 1701. In the west entrance of the strait,
where it is formed betwixt the large island Guimaras and the coast of Panay, the
depths are only 4 and 5 fathoms, but increase to 10 or 12 fathoms inside, at the
Spanish settlement Yloylo. This place is about 10 leagues E. N. E. of Point Naso, vioyio.
and the strait here forms a safe harbour, where supplies may be obtained if a ship is in
want.
The west coast of Panay is generally of moderate height near the sea, well peopled,
and cultivated in many places with rice. Several villages, with churches, are dis-
cerned in sailing along, but no soundings are got unless close to the shore. A chain
of mountains, very rugged in some parts, stretches inland from Point Naso to tlie
northern extremity of the island.
Asloman Village, in lat. 10° 32' N., situated in the bottom of a small deep bay, about Asiomai. vii-
2A leagues northward of Point Naso, may prohahhi afford reiVeshments, for it is a con- lag^andcoast
• I 11 1 1 • • • 1 1 1 I I- • adiaeent.
siderable place; but it is uncertain whether there be any safe anchorage.
Coasting along from Point Naso to Antique Bay, we could get no soundings 3 or 4
miles offshore.
Antique Bay, about 5^ leagues northward of Point Naso, is a convenient place to Antique Bay
stop at for water and refreshments, there being a Spanish chief, with a few Europeans "'"^ ^'"*»*-
and some native troops, stationed at the village Antique, where there is a small river
and fort. When a ship is running into the bay with a brisk wind, sail must be reduced
in time ; for the bank being steep, no soundings are got until abreast tlie fort about
2|- or 2 miles' distance, and the depths quickly decrease from 30 to 2-3 fathoms, to 8 or
7 fathoms, sandy bottom, wliich is the proper anchorage.
The Laurel, from Bengal, bound to Macao, after passing through the Straits of
Sunda, Macassar, and Baseelan, steered to the westward of these islands, and touched
at Antique Bay April I2th, 1788, where a Portuguese ship and two Spanish snows
were at anchor. When at anchor in the bay, in 7 fathoms, sand, the observed lat. Anciiorage.
10°42'N., the fort bearing E. by N.i N. Uor 2 miles, and the extreme pointsS.f W.
and N.W. h N., the north point of tiie bay distant about 3 miles.
By permission of the chief, she procured wood and water, some paddy, poultry, and
a bullock ; but no fruit or vegetables could be got at that time.
Point Potol, in about lat. 1 1° 48' N., bearing North a little westerly from Point ^^°i»_^'j^^^^^-
Naso, is the north-westernmost headland of the island Panay, and over it stands a coLu ^'""'
* Captain Hevwood made it in lat. 10' 2I.' N., Ion. 1-22= 8' E., l)v chronometers.
t Capt. C. ll.Drinkwater Bethune, R. N., places Luegas in lat. 10° 29' N., Ion. 12P 55' E.
674
PHILIPPINE ISLAJJDS, WEST SIDE. — CUYOS ISLANDS.
Directions. high mountain, discernible at a great distance. From Antique Bay to Point Potol
the coast may be approached in daylight, within 3 or 4 miles, there being no hidden
danger. Near the shore, in about lat. 1 1° 32' N., lie two small islands ; another island
bears S.W. 4 or 5 leagues distant from Point Potel, having a safe and wide channel
betwixt it and Panay.
This track contiguous to the coast seems preferable to the channel in the offing,
between the dry sand-bank and Cuyos Islands ; for in the North-east Monsoon land and
sea breezes will sometimes be found in shore, when calms or baffling airs prevail outside.
Dry Sand-
bank.
Sombrero
Rock.
White Rock.
DRY SAND-BANK, in lat. 11° 24^' N., Ion. 121° 54' E.,* by our chronometer, in
the Anna, situated in the channel westward of Panay, bearing from Point Naso
N. by W., distant 20 leagues, is a little elevated from the water, and may be seen about
6 miles from the deck. It is distant 5 or 6 leagues from Panay, and is in one with a
high peaked mountain bearing £. ^N. ; the channel between it and the islands to the
westward is about 9 or 10 leagues wide.
SOMBRERO ROCK, in lat. 10°4o'N., distant about 9 leagues from Panay, is
little larger than a long boat, and can only be discerned at about 3 leagues' distance
from the poop of a large ship, generally appearing black. It bears from Point Naso
N. 51° W., distant 12^ leagues ; from the centre of Grand Cuyo E. 14° S., and from Pa-
guayan, the easternmost of the Cuyo Islands, S. 46° E., distant 20 miles. Soundings
appear to extend from theCuyo Islands nearly to Sombrero Rock; when it bore S.9°W.,
seen from the crosjack yard, the Coutts had 120 fathoms, green sand, at noon, the ob-
served lat. 10° 55' N. There is a White Rock, in lat. 10° 28' N., distant about 7 leagues
South from the S.W. point of Grand Cuyo, which is far to the westward of the com-
mon track.
Cuyos Islands. THE CUYOS ISLANDS, named from Grand Cuyo, the largest of them, consist
of an extensive range or archipelago, of mostly high rocky islands, fronting the west
side of the channel opposite to Panay, the nearest of them being 12 or 14 leagues dis-
tant/rom that coast. Grand Cuyo, in about lat. 10' 52° N., is one of the southernmost,
and is Avell cultivated with rice in some parts, but many of the other islands are barren
Quiniiuban. and rocky. They extend from lat. 10° 40' N. in a N. N.W. direction to Quiniluban,
the northernmost island, in lat. 11° 28' N., Ion. 121° 11' E., by chronometer;! this
island bears from the Dry Sand-Bank about W. ^ N., distant 14 leagues, and is a high
island, with others near it to the southward. The easternmost island of the archi-
pelago appears to be in lat. 10° 58' N., Ion. 121° 27' E., and lies about 4 leagues N.E.
from Grand Cuyo, by the observation of Captain James Pearson, of the Lady of the
Lake, who passed close to these islands in 1831.
Soundings. There are soundings from 40 to 75 fathoms near these islands on the east side ; also
among and to the westward of them, there are safe channels, with various depths from
30 to 60 fathoms : nevertheless, a large ship ought not to pass between any of them, if
it can be avoided, for reefs extend a great way from some of these islands, and there
are several shoal patches of coral not well known.
caravaos. CARAVAOS, Or BUFFALOS, in about lat. 11° 53' N., bearing from Quiniluban
about N. E. by E., distant 14 or 15 leagues, are two islands bounding the channel on
* By Capt. C. R. Drinkwater Bethune, R. N., in Ion. 121° 34' E.
t Capt. Bethune makes Quiniluban in lat. 11° 29' N., Ion. 120° 47' E.
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE.— MINDORA STRAIT. 575
the east side, and lying in a W. N.W. direction from Point Potol : they ought to be
approached with caution in the night, for the outermost is very low. To the north-
westward of these lie the Simirara Islands, having a long sand projecting far out simirara
from them, with two islets on its centre, covered with trees. When passing this sand inlands.
at 3 miles' distance, with it bearing from E. S. E. to N.N.W., a rock off the northern-
most Simirara Island then bore N.E. ^ E., and the easternmost of the Buffalos E. by S.
FALMOUTH BANK, lying betwixt Quiniluban and Mindora, is of considerable Falmouth
extent North and South, with various depths on it from 60 to 20 fathoms, and the least ^''"''■
water found on it was 11 or 12 fathoms, coral rock. Upon tlie north part of it the
fleet had soundings. May 30th, 1801, with the island Ambolon bearing N. 3° E., and
Simirara from N. 60'' E. to N. 63° E. ; the Coutts had then 68 fathoms, next' cast
14 fathoms, with Simirara N. 63° E., southern part of Calamianes W. .5° S., Quiniluban
S. 20° W., and carried soundings of 12^ to 15 fathoms for a considerable distance,
steering S. S. E.
There are other coral banks in this neighbourhood, detached from the Falmouth other banks.
Bank, on one of which we had several casts in the night of 22 to 25 fathoms, then no
ground at 80 fathoms. By the bearings at daylight, this bank appeared to bear from
Quiniluban N. ^ E., distant about 5 leagues, and E. | S. from the south extreme of
the Calamianes. On another bank, about 6 or 6^ leagues to the N.W. of Quiniluban,
and 4 or 5 leagues to the eastward of the Southern Calamianes, the Betsey had only
5 fathoms.
MINDORA STRAIT is separated into two channels by the Apo Shoal ; the west- jiindora strait.
ern channel, formed betwixt this shoal and Calamianes, is 5 or 6 leagues wide, and is
sometimes called Northumberland Strait; the other, formed betwixt the west coast of
Mindora and the shoal, is 4 or 5 leagues wide.*
Ambolon, and East and West Ylin, with a contiguous islet, front the S.W. end of islands near
Mindora at a small distance, and are of moderate height ; Ambolon being the western- of'jiinaora!"^
most of these three islands, and East Ylin projecting farthest to the southward. The
south end of this island is in lat. 12° 9' N., Ion. 121° 15' E., or 7° 43' East of Macao,
by chronometers, and bears from the Dry Sand-Bank off Panay N. 38° W., distant 20
or 21 leagues.
In steering across from Panav towards these islands in the night, be cautious when To sail from
borrowing on the east, or windward side of the channel, in order to give a berth to th^'J^^ '""'"
the Buffalos and the sand that projects from the Simirara Islands. Wlien witliin 6
leagues of Ambolon and Ylin, haul to the westward, and keep at 4 or 5 leagues' dis-
tance from them, until their soutliern extremity bears S. E. by E. ^ E. ; being then
clear to the northward of the coral banks that lie to the westward of these islands,
haul in for the Mindora shore, if you intend to pass between it and Apo Shoal.
Besides the shoal, said to project from these islands several miles S. Eastward, there
is a coral bank, or a c/iahi of banks, westward of them; for in working to the south- corai banks.
ward in June, 1792, returning from China in the Anna, we got suddenly into 13 and
9 fathoms, bright coral rocks, seen under the bottom, and immediately after tacking to
the westward got no soundings. The observed lat. 12° 13' N., when we tacked at noon
in 9 fathoms, with the low point at the S.W. end of Mindora bearing N. E. by E. ^ E.,
extremes of the islands near it from E. N. E. to E. by S. f S., body of Ambolon E. ^ S.,
• Captain Ross, in his survey of Apo Siioal, describes this channel as only about 4 leagues wide ; but in
passing through it in the Anna, it appeared to be not less than 5 or 6 leagues wide.
576
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — MINDORA STRAIT.
Port Man-
garin.
Apo Slioal.
North and
East points.
Islands on the
shoal.
Large island.
Black rocks.
Coral bank.
distant nearly 3 leagues, and the Calamianes from West to S. W. by W. ^ S. After stand-
ing- 4 miles westward, stood back, and tacked on the edge of the coral bank in 13
fathoms, with the southern extremity of the islands off the S.W. end of Mindora bear-
in" E. by S. ^ S., and the body of the southernmost island £. ^ S., distant 3 or 3^
leao'ues. From thence stood 3 miles N. Westward, and saw the rocks under the
bottom on a coral patch, with apparently 12 or 15 fathoms water on it; but before
the lead could be hove we were off it, out of soundings; the Calamianes bore then
from W. f S. to S.W. i W., distant about 8 leagues ; the islands off the S.W. end of
Mindora from E. by N' to S. E. by E. f E. ; Ambolon, the nearest island, distant about
4 leagues.
As the Lord North and other ships seem to have passed within a few miles of the
west side of Ambolon, without getting soundings, these coral banks are probably de-
tached from the islands. It may, nevertheless, be prudent to keep about 4^ or 5
leagues from the west sides of the islands, in order to pass outside these steep coral
banks, or bank; for the verge of soundings was conspicuous by the discoloured water,
which appeared shoaler in upon the bank to the eastward than where we tacked in 9
and 13 fathoms ; but no broken water could be perceived. From 10 to 12 fathoms, the
bank shelves down to no ground 80 fathoms at the distance of half a cable to the west-
ward.
Port Mangarin, formed between Point Buruncan, the southern extreme of Min-
dora, and the contiguous islands Ylin and Ambolon, is sheltered from all winds, with
good depths of water; but at the entrance, betwixt the N.W point of Ylin and
Mindora, there are some rocks, with 5 or 6 fathoms water between them.
The Apo Shoal, lying between the west coast of Mindora and the Island of Bus-
vagon, was examined by the Company's ships Discovery and Investigator, in 1810,
and its true position determined by correct observations and good chronometers.
The northern extremity of the shoal is in lat. 12° 45' N., Ion. 120' 31' E., or llf
miles eastward of Point Calavite on Mindora : from the northern extremity it extends
S. E. by S. 7^ miles, where it forms a very narrow spit or east point, in lat.
12° 40|;' N., Ion. 120° 36' E. ; from the eastern point the southern extreme bears
S. 35° W., distant 5^ miles, and between the two points there are several gaps in
the shoal. On the western side there are two islands : the western one is largest,
being about half a mile in diameter, and is covered with trees ; white beaches line
its northern and eastern sides, and a surrounding reef projects about half a mile.
This island does not appear to be connected with the Apo Shoal, but about H miles
E. N. E. of it lies the small island, formed of barren black rocks, which is situated on
the south-westernmost part of the shoal.
The large island is in lat. 12° 39' N., Ion. 120° 28' E., or 8^ miles eastward of Point
Calavite; from the centre of this island, the north point of the shoal liears N. 24° E.,
distant 7 miles ; the eastern point bears from it E. 9° N., distant 8 miles ; and the south
point bears S. 56° E., distant 6| miles. The whole extent of the shoal is 10 miles from
its north to its south point, and 9 miles from its east point to the western part of the
large island. There are two high black rocks N. E. of the small island, which may be
seen about 2 leagues off, and the islands in clear weather may be seen from an eleva-
tion of 20 feet, about 3^ leagues. At low water many small rocks are dry on the
shoal, particularly along its north side.
A small round bank of coral rocks, on which the Discovery anchored, and found the
least water 9 fathoms, lies 7 miles eastward of the eastern point of Apo Shoal. When
at anchor on it, the large island on Apo Shoal, visible half-way up the lower rigging,
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE, — MINDORA STRAIT. 577
bore W. 6° S., and the northernmost one of two small islands off Pandan Point on
Mindora bore N. 25^° E., distant 7 or 8 miles, by which it appears that in the late
Spanish survey of the west coast of Mindora these islands are placed about 2 miles
too much to the eastward of Point Calavite, wiiich seems to make the channel between Eastern chan-
them and the eastern point of Apo Shoal only 4 leagues wide. "*'■
Ships intending- to pass between the coast of Mindoi'a and the shoal in the night
should keep about 2 leagues off the small islands near Pandan Point, as the eastern
point of Apo Shoal is narrow, and should the wind be westerly it would not readily be
perceived, nor would there be breakers to make known the ajiproach to danger.
Whilst examining Apo Shoal, the Discovery and Investigator were frequently near
it without obtaining soundings, and the boats found it very steep to, in all parts.
Land and sea breezes were experienced here in IMarch, the latter from ^^'est and
S.W., with the tide or current setting northward ; land and sea breezes prevailed also
to the westward of the Calamianes.
Northumberland Strait, or the western channel of Mindora Strait, appears w-estem
preferable to the eastern channel, being 5 or 6 leagues wide, with the advantage of '^'"'""'^'•
the large Apo Island to guide you when passing the shoal, and knowing that you may
approach the island to the westward within a mile.
The islands northward of Calamianes and Busvagon were also examined by the
Discovery and Investigator, and their situations well determined.
North "Rock, in lat". 12° 27' N., Ion. 120° 41' E., or 1.5i miles West of Calavite North Rock.
Point, is a high black rock, having three others at a short distance westward of it;
this is the northernmost of these islets which lie on the west side the western channel,
and it may be seen 4 or 5 leagues from the deck. Captain Ross made the North
Rock as stated above. Passing in the Anna, in 1792, our observations made it in lat.
12° 26' N., Ion. 120° 6' E., corresponding with the Castlereagh's chronometer, which
made it 14° 39' E. of Pulo Domar.
The largest island on Apo Shoal bears from North Rock N. 62° E., distant
25 miles ; near this rock to the northward there are 40 and 50 fathoms water, and the
same depths between it and Busvagon, on a muddy bottom.
Turret Island, bearing from North Rock S. 50° E., distant 7^ miles, is small and turret island.
locky, having several detached rocks about it, and a remarkable hummock on its
S.W. point, somewhat similar to a turret.
From North Rock S. 63° E., distant 15 miles, lie two small islands covered with Other islands.
trees, which have sandy beaches, and about H miles to the northward of them there
is a black rock above water. These two islands bear from the western island on Apo Black rock.
Shoal S. 24° W., distant 19 miles, and are nearer to this shoal than any of the islands
off Busvagon ; there are 25 fathoms on a coral bottom about 4 miles to the northward,
and the same depth about 4 miles eastward of these islands.
There is a group of islands extending from lat. 12° 8' to 12° 17' N., and bearing ^'■°"P°f
about S. by W. from Apo Island, the northern one of which appears to be the largest ; '"^ ^•
they are the easternmost islands hereabout : overfalls of 25 to 9 fathoms were got
about 2 miles north-eastward of the northern island, and the channels between the
islands did not appear very clear. Soundings of 23 fathoms were found about
7 miles N. E. of this group of islands, and two casts of 24 fathoms on a bank about
9 miles westward of Apo Shoal, by which we may infer that there are several coral Corai banks.
knowls about these straits, although probably not so shoal as to be dangerous to
ships.
Calavite Island, or High Island, in lat. 12° 21' N., Ion. 119° 56,}' E., by Captain caiavit«=
VOL. II. 4 E
578
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — MINDORA STRAIT.
Sail Uock.
North-west
Uock.
Pinnacle Rock.
Haycock.
Green Island.
Calamianes.
Ross, bearing from North Rock S. 51° W. 9f miles, is about 2 miles northward of the
northern point of Busvagon ; the channel between them does not appear free of dan-
ger, as some rocks were seen above water eastward of the island.
About a mile N.W. of Calavite Island are rocks above water, one of which, named
Sail Rock, is very remarkable; and If miles N.W. of this lies a large black rock, or
North-west Rock, in lat. 12° '23^' N., Ion. 119° 54|' E. When passing between these
had 38 fathoms, and about 2 miles N. N. E. of North-west Rock passed over a coral
spot in 8 fathoms.
Pinnacle Rock, in lat. 12° 18^' N., about 2 miles West of the north point
of Busvagon, is a very sharp rock above water, having 25 fathoms water about
2 miles westward of it, and 12 fathoms about a mile off. In lat. 12° 9' N., Ion.
119° 51^' E., lies the Haycock, a high rocky island, about 2 miles off the west part
of Busvagon, which may be seen 6 or 7 leagues; about 2^ miles west of it sound-
ings of 26 fathoms were found, with overfalls, 19 fathoms about 6 miles off, and
.30 fathoms about 11 miles off.
Green Island, in lat. 12° 3' N., Ion. 119° 49' E., is of moderate height ; it may be
seen about 5 leagues off, and is covered with trees ; it is the westernmost island here-
about, surrounded by a coral reef, extending about one-third of a mile. To tlie east-
ward of Green Island there is a large bay or passage, with numerous small islands in
it, and about 3 or 4 miles N.W. of the island, the Discovery got overfalls on a
coral shoal, but did not find less than 5 fathoms ; to the eastward of the island
23 fathoms were found, and 9 and 10 fathoms close to the reef.
In lat. 11° 5Gi' N., Ion. 119° 5H' E., there is a high point of land, apparently the
western extremity of the Calamianes, near which lies a rock above water, and a short
distance to south-west are other rocks above water. From this point the land curves
in to the eastward, and extends to another high point, in about Ion. 119° 56' E., forming-
several points; and southward of the southern extreme there is apparently a wide
strait or channel leading eastward.
The Calamianes are a group of high islands, lying between the north end of Pala-
wan and Mindora, the northernmost of which have been described above. Busvagon
is the largest of them, distant about 14 or 15 leagues from Mindora, and with the small
isles that line its eastern shore, bounds Northumberland Strait on the west side. If
passing through this strait with a westerly wind, borrow towards Busvagon and the
isles on that side, which are safe to approach ; or with an easterly wind, the large Apo
Island, which bounds the east side of the strait, may be approached occasionally to
H miles. On the east side of Busvagon there are soundings among some of the
small isles, and anchorage in one part, near the shore of the former. Coron, lying to
the southward of Busvagon, is also a considerable island, with small isles near it on
the east side, and forms the southern limit of Calamianes, in lat. 11° 46' N. Near the
S. E. part of Coron lies Delian Island, with a round rock close to its south point ; to
the eastward of which, H. M. S. Belliqueux, in July, 1817, got 5J fathoms on a coral
bank about 3^ leagues East of Delian, and 12 fathoms, coral, on another bank, about
5 leagues S. S. E. of the same island ; with generally soundings from 40 to 55 fathoms
near them, and the same depths northward to Diviran Island, and 44 and 45 fathoms
towards Gap Island, which lies near the east side of Coron, bearing about North from
Delian, and to the south-westward from Diviran.
West coast of
Mindora.
THE WEST COAST OF MINDORA has no soundings excepting in the bays,
or within 1 or 2 miles of the shore in some places. Inland, double and treble chains
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, WEST SIDE. — MINDORA STRAIT.
579
of mountains extend through the island, and some low points of land project from thera
into the sea.
From the low point Mangarin, opposite the north end of the island Ambolon, the
coast is low and woody close to the sea, to the distance of 4 or 5 leagues north-
westward ; having a beach and some inlets like rivers in this space, with the village of
Ililin. There is said to be a shoal stretching along the shore to the southward of
Usuanga Bay, with two islets close to the coast, in about lat. 12° 35' N.
Usuanga Bay, about 6 leagues northward of the island Ambolon, is about 1^ miles
wide, and nearly the same depth, with soundings of 30 fathoms in the entrance, de-
creasing inside to 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. A rocky reef, with soundings of 1 to
3 fathoms, projects from the north point of the bay above half a mile soutiiward, which
must be avoided if a ship stop here for water. It is prudent not to anchor under
10 or 12 fathoms, without first examining the ground, for near the rocky islets at the
bottom of the bay there is shoal water and rocky bottom. Fresh water is found in a
large pond at the S. E. side of the bay.
Dongan, or Pandan Point, is a low projecting headland about 3 leagues farther to
the northward, in about lat. 12° 48' N., having two small islands off it, and a bay on
the north side. From hence, there are soundings within 2 miles of the shore, as far
as Santa Cruz Point, 5 leagues more to the northward, where a ship may occasionally
anchor off the river and village of that name. The coast hereabout abounds with good
pasturage, and in sailing along we saw herds of bullocks grazing.
To the N.W. of Santa Cruz Point lies Tulaba River and Bay, with soundings of
8 and 9 fathoms about a mile off shore, opposite a peaked hill. In lat. 13° 10' A., a
reef projects nearly 2 miles from the north point of Masi Bay, with from 2 to 6 fathoms
on the north side of it in Mamburao Bay, the west point of which, in lat. 13° 14'N., is
also fronted by a reef, with tiie whole of the latter bay. Point Tibili is about 5 miles
farther N.W., from whence, in a northerly direction, there are soundings near the
shore into Palaon Bay.
Palaon, or Palasan Bay, abotit 2 leagues E. S. Eastward of Point Calavite, extends
northward into the land about 3 or 4 miles, and is of circular form, having a reef pro-
jecting from the western point of the entrance. The soundings in it are from 30 to
15 fathoms, sand or mud, where a ship may anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, and procure
fresh water at a small village, where there is a river, with a red cliff near it, at the
north-eastern part, in the bottom of the bav.
Point Calavite, in lat. 13° 27' N., Ion' 120° 20' E., or 6° 48' E. from Macao by
chronometer, forms the N.W. extremity of Mindora, and bears N. 31° W. from the
island Ambolon, distant 29 leagues. Betwixt the point and Palaon Bay there are
soundings near the shore, which is bold to approach, for the few rocks interspersed
along this part of the coast, adjacent to the point, lie close in, and one of them, just
above water, has a sandy beach adjoining, upon the projecting part of the coast that
forms Calavite Point. Over this point stands Calavite xMountain, which is of regular
sloping form, and is visible at a great distance in clear weather.
Having rounded the islands off tlie S.A>'. end of Mindora, as before directed, if to
pass through the eastern channel, after hauling in for the Mindora coast, to avoicl the
southern extremity of Apo Shoal, you ought, with an easterly wind, to keep withm
2 or 3 leagues of that coast, in proceeding along it to the northward. With a westerly
wind, do not exceed the distance of 3 or 3^ leagues from the coast, until clear to the
northward of Apo Shoal; and in the night, ~it is^prudent to borrow nearer to the coast
than to the shoal. Variable winds, or land and sea breezes, may be expected here m
4 E 2
Usuanga Bay.
Point Dongan
and adjacent
coast.
Palaon Bay.
Point Calavite.
To sail along
tlie west coast
of Mindora.
and thence to-
wards China.
580
RETURN PASSAGE FROM CHINA, ON THE WEST SIDE OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
Having rounded Point Cala-
March and April, and also along the coast of Luzon.
vita, and passed Luban and Goat Island, you may proceed along the coast of Luzon
to Cape Bolina, conforming to the directions given in the description of that coast, and
to those for proceeding to Canton River by the Palawan Passage, which will be found
at page 294.
RETURN PASSAGE FROM CHINA, ON THE WEST SIDE
OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
Passage from
China late in
April or May.
Passage to-
wards Mindora
Strait.
To sail to the
southward
through Min.
dora Strait.
ALTHOUGH SHIPS departing from CANTON RIVER, towards the end of
April or in May, will be able sometimes to make a direct passage through the China
Sea to Malacca Strait, in some years they may find difficulty in doing so. But it will
answer no useful purpose for ships bound to the western side of Hindoostan, or to
Europe, to pursue that route if adverse winds are found to prevail; because these winds
will continue adverse in working out of the western part of the strait of Malacca,
and will remain so after rounding Achen Head, in proceeding through a space of
12° or 14° of latitude, or until the limit of the South-east Trade is approached in lat.
7°or8°S.
Neither ought ships to pursue the route to the southward for Gaspar Strait, or the
Carimata Passage, in May or June; because S. E. winds then prevailing with north-
Avesterly currents, render the passage through, between the islands, very tedious in
these months, particularly in a ship that sails indifferently. It seems, therefore, proper
for ships departing from Canton River, late in April or in May, to adopt the passage
to the westward of the Philippine Islands, if bound to the western side of Hindoostan
or to Europe ; particularly when easterly winds are experienced at leaving tiie Grand
Ladrone, which would retard them getting out into the Pacific Ocean, were they in-
clined to proceed by that route.
Departing from the Grand Ladrone, late in April or May, and intending to pursue
the route by Mindora Straits, steer southward to the Macclesfield Bank, if the wind
admit, particularly in May, to be enabled to reach the N.W. end of Mindora without
tacking, should the wind veer round to south-westward.
If near the Macclesfield Bank with the wind at S.W. or S. S.W., steer to the S. E.,
by the wind ; although unable to weather Point Calavite, variable winds may be ex-
pected near the coast of Luzon, to carry you round the N.W. end of Mindora ;
whereas, about 2° or 3° off the coast, light breezes prevail at South or S. S. E. in May,
or early in June.
If you adopt the Eastern Strait, or that formed between Mindora and Apo Shoal,
keep within 3 or 3^ leagues of the coast in passing the latter, when the wind inclines
from south-westward in the daytime ; but the winds are frequently variable, inclining
to irregtdar land and sea breezes, and you may borrow within a few miles of Mindora
with a land wind. In steering southward along the coast, when the islands off the
S.W. end of Mindora are first seen, they will appear separated from it by a wide open-
ing, as the low land that forms the S.W. end of that island is not then discernible.
RETURN PASSAGE FROM CHINA, ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 581
Keep about 5 leagues from the islands Ambolou and Ylin in passing, when their
southern extremity bears between S. E. by E. ^ E. and E. N. E., to give a berth to coral
shoals which lie to the westward of them.
Northumberland Strait, or that formed between Apo Shoal and the Calamianes,
being wider than the Eastern Strait, should be cliosen if the wind admit, and either
side of it may be borrowed on, as circumstances require, the channel being about 6
leagues Avide between the large island at the western edge of Apo Shoal and those of
the Calamianes.
When the south end of the Calamianes is brought to bear West about 5^ or G leagues passage aioi.g
distant, Quiniluban will be seen bearing S. by E. or S. S. E. or 7 leagues, if the f,^!'"^^'''
weather be clear: borrow towards this island with a westerly wind, to pass to the west-
ward of the Dry Sand-Bank; then proceed, or work along the west coast of Panay at
any discretional distance. Although irregular land and sea breezes are sometimes
experienced close to the west coasts of Mindora and Panay in the South-west Mon-
soon, yet the prevailing winds are between South and West, witli cloudy weather and
frequent heavy showers of rain. The currents are seldom strong in tliis season, but
they are liable to set to the eastward, in the opening between Negros Island and the
north part of Mindanao.
Departing from Point Naso, in June or July, haul to the S. S. Westward in crossing uaseeia,.
over, to make the coast of Mindanao well to the southward, and to check any easterly strait.
current tiiat may probably be running in between Mindanao and JNegros Island ; but,
with an easterly Avind, steer a direct course for Point Balagonan. Having reached the
S.W. end of Mindanao, the route through Baseelan Strait uught to be chosen in pre-
ference to that through amongst the islands to the southward, for it is more direct than
the latter.
Having rounded the east end of Baseelan, if you intend to pass through either of the i-rom Basceiai.
straits East of Java, into the Indian Ocean, you have the choice of proceeding by the ^'™^8l!jJ!Ji';; „,.
Strait of Macassar, or by the Molucca Passage ; the latter route is considered, by some Molucca W-
navigators, more certain and expeditious, when the South-east Monsoon prevails to the ^^s^-
southward of the equator. Indifferently sailing ships, which proceed through the
Strait of Macassar, are seldom able to reach AUass Strait, without prolonging the
passage by working round to the eastward of the Kalkoon Islands and Shoals ; and if
the South-east Monsoon blow strong, it may sometimes be found impracticable to work
against it:* whereas, ships proceeding to the south-ward by the Molucca Passage enter
into the South-east Monsoon so far to the eastward that they have the choice of pro-
ceeding through any of the straits at discretion. But for ships intending to touch at
Batavia, or to proceed through Sunda Strait, the route by the Strait of Macassar may
be found most convenient.
If the Strait of Macassar be chosen, steer a course from Baseelan as the prevailmg
winds and currents require; for the former are often light and variable, although ge-
nerally betwixt South and West, when they are a little steady. Nevertheless, easterly
or south-easterly breezes continue sometimes for four or five days together.!
• The homeward-bound fleet left the Grand Ladrone about the middle of May, 1801, and proceeded to the
westward of the Philippine Islands, through Macassar and Allass Straits. Altliough they kept along the
Celebes side of the former strait, eastward of the Little Pater Nosters, they lost some tlays beatmg round the
Kalkoon Islands, were eight days from being in sight of Little Pulo Laut to Bally Town, m .\llass Strait ;
here they anchored .Tuly 15th, and found an American ship, wliicli left China with them, had arrived two days
before : this ship came by the outer track, through Dumpier Strait and tlie Pitt Passage.
t H. M. S. Conway, Captain Driuk water Bcthunc, in her passage from Canton to Batavia, went through the
Selayer Strait, while the Apolline, an English banpio which left Maaio the same day, took the Macassar Strait,
582 RETURN PASSAGE FROM CHINA, ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
The currents are also very mutable, sometimes setting strong to the eastward, along the
south side of Mindanao, in June and July, and afterwards to the south-eastward, in the
track from thence to Celebes ; but they are liable to change and run to the westward.
In June, the fleet had strong S. Easterly currents, in the track from Baseelan to Cape
Donda; and early in July we had them setting mostly to westward, with S. Easterly
and easterly winds.
With the wind steady at eastward, Cape Donda bearing about S. S. E. or South will
be a good landfall. But the winds usually draw to westward, as the north entrance of
Macassar Strait is approached, with a current frequently setting out of the strait east-
ward, rendering it prudent to keep to the westward if possible, and make Point Kan-
neeoongan ; if you fall in with the coast of Celebes, far eastward of Cape Donda, much
time may be lost beating into the strait against the westerly winds and north-easterly
currents. The fleet which fell in with the coast of Celebes, far to the eastward of Cape
Rivers, June 19th, 1801, did not get round Cape Donda until the 2nd of July; and
the Fox, Lord Nortli, and Hastings, were from May 26th to June 6th, 1781, near the
north coast of Celebes, endeavouring to work into Macassar Strait without gaining any
ground, and were obliged to bear away for the Molucca Passage.*
Having entered the Strait of Macassar, the route along the coast of Celebes may be
pursued, if your ship sail indifferently, or if you intend to pass through the Strait of
AUass, in order to pass well to the eastward of Pulo Laut, by being more to wind-
ward than by proceeding along the coast of Borneo, to the westward of Little Pater
Nosters. But great caution is requisite in pursuing the eastern route, when crossing
the latitude of the Laurel Shoal, and of those to the northward of the islands Noesa
Seras, already described in the directions given for the Strait of Macassar.
If bound to Batavia, or through the Strait of Sunda, proceed to the southward as
the winds admit, observing not to increase the lat. above 1°50'S., until the Borneo
coast is approached within 4 or 5 leagues ; not increasing the distance off" the land in
passing Little Pater Nosters, that the dangei'S in the offing fronting these islands may
be avoided ; the coast from Ragged to Shoal Points must be approached still nearer,
on account of the shoals, which there bound the east side of the channel.
South-east winds generally blow strong into the south entrance of the strait, during
the South-east Monsoon, producing a considerable swell, which is sometimes accom-
panied by a northerly current. This may excite apprehensions of difficulty being ex-
perienced in getting round Great Pulo Laut, more particularly as the Admiral Pocock
found it impracticable to beat round in July, and was obliged to return to Sooloo for
provisions. This ship probably had a very foul bottom, and sailed badly, for ships
which sail even moderately well seldom experience much delay in working round
Pulo Laut in the South-east Monsoon. In July, we had in the Anna a fresh monsoon
at S. E. and S. S. E., with a heavy sea against us ; notwithstanding, we soon worked
round, for tlie current appareidly set to the southward out of the strait, in opposition
to the wind and sea. Nevertheless, the eastern side of the strait may be pursued in an
and reached Batavia two days before her. As it was ascertained that, when near Baseelan, the Conway was
five days ahead of the Apolline, Captain Bethune infers, that if he had persisted in making westing, instead of
getting so far to leeward, he would have shortened his passage a week at least ; he left Macao on the 17th July,
and reached Batavia the 29th August.
* They got into the Molucca Passage June 9th, and continued to beat against southerly winds and constant
northerly currents until July 4th, but could not get to the southward betwixt Lissamatula and Oby Major.
The Fox, being the best sailer, got through ; but the Lord North and Hastings were obliged to go round
Gillolo and ]\Iorty, and, after great loss of time, entered the Pitt Passage by Dampier Strait. They sailed from
China April 1st, came through the Mindora Sea, and touched at Sooloo".
MOLUCCA PASSAGE. — CELEBES, EAST COAST. 583
indifferently sailing ship, that she may be enabled to clear Pulo Laut with the S. E.
wind, without the risk of prolonging her passage by having to work round.
From the south end of Great Pulo Laut, a steady and fresh easterly monsoon, with
clear weather, will be experienced in steering to the westward between Java and
Borneo.
THE MOLUCCA PASSAGE may be pursued, if the winds and currents are Molucca
found, after leaving Baseelan, to be untavouralile for proceeding toward the Strait of ^***'^''-
Macassar. In such case, steer for the islands contiguous to the north-eastern extre-
mity of Celebes, and after passing through the channel betwixt the islands Banca and
Bejaren, and having rounded the N. E. end of Celebes, proceed to the southward be-
tween Lissamatula and Oby Major, which is the common passage ; or otherwise,
through Greyhound Straits.
Sometimes it is tedious getting through the Molucca Passage to the southward,
because the current often runs through it to the northward ; but the winds are light
and variable at times, and the current is liable to change.
It appears, however, that a north-easterly current greatly prevails betwixt Celebes
and Gillolo, particularly in the Southerly Monsoon, so that indifferently sailing ships
may not be always able to beat through the Molucca Passage to the southward : this
may be effected, however, if they keep close to the coast of Gillolo, and pass betwixt
it and Batchian, through the Strait of Patientia; or through the Strait of Batchian,
formed between the island of this name and the islands Tawally and Maregolang.
Nevertheless, if a ship happen to be near the north end of Gillolo, or Morty, in the
strength of the Southerly Monsoon, the route through the Gillolo Passage seems pre-
ferable to that by the Molucca Passage, for ships generally get speedily through the
former into the Pitt Passage.*
It may be proper in this place to observe, that in all the old charts, English and a channel
Dutch, there is a good jxissage, with soundings of 20 and 17 fathoms, laid down betwixt charts, wiiich
the large islands of Xulla Mangola and XullaTalyabo ; but H. M. S. Greyhound could has no exist.
find no such passage. This ship was proceeding from Manado at the N. E. part of
Celebes, towards the south end of Bouton, in order to intercept a ship .about to sail
from Amboina with spices for Batavia ; and with a view to shorten the passage, she
intended to proceed through the channel represented on the charts, betwixt the Xulla
Islands, mentioned above. To their great surprise, no such channel could be found ;
but the wind favouring them, they passed round the west end of Xulla Talyabo, and
got speedily to the south end of Bouton.
THE EASTERN COAST OF CELEBES, which forms the western side of the ^^^^"^'"^
Molucca Passage, is very imperfectly known, being little frecpiented ; it is fronted by
islands, and many islands are scattered over the great bays of Tolo and Tominie, or
Goonong Telia, by which this coast is deeply indented. In the latter bay, which
stretches nearly to the west side of Celebes, there are soundings in some parts near the
shore, and probabli/ good harbours, formed bv some of the islands.
Goonong Telia River, on the north side the bay, in lat. 0° 28.y N., Ion. 123° 15' E., CoonongTeiu
has two small coves just within the entrance on the eastern side; into either of these
* Returning from China by tlie Eastern Passajie, it seems advisable in a ship that sails indifferently, to pur-
sue the route to the eastward of Luzon, and enter the Fitt Pass.ige by Danipier Strait ; for some difficulty may
be occasionally experienced in getting to tlic southw;u-d through Macassar Strait, or through the Molucca
Passage.
584 FROM THE MOLUCCA PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.
a small ship may haul, and moor to the large stones that lie on the beach. Here she
will be protected from the rapid stream, that descends from the mountains after much
rain, and runs with great velocity into the sea.
Tlie sea breeze sets in about 1 1 a.m., and abates about 4 or 5 hours after noon, when
the land wind begins to blow from the mountains, frequently in strong gusts. A ship
may bring up in from 30 to 56 fathoms, under the eastern point of the entrance, until
tiie sea breeze set in ; she can then proceed into either of the coves, or anchor in mid-
channel, close to the fishing stakes in the entrance of the river.
The village is about 2 miles up the river, and the natives, who are chiefly Mahome-
tans, carry on a considerable trade in wax and gold dust. The Dutch usually had
two or three small forts on the banks of the river, for the protection of the place, which
abounds with all kinds of refreshments; horses, buffaloes, bullocks, sheep, goats, and
poultry, may be procured.
From Goonong Telia River to Current Island, situated close to the N. E. extremity
of Elphinston Bay, the coast is high and bold, without danger. From the west side of
this island some rocks stretch out 2 miles ; and about 3 miles N. W. of it there are
soundings of 50 to 25 fathoms, muddy bottom, about a mile off shore, where a ship
might anchor if necessary : this place has been named Elphinston Bay. Outside Cur-
rent Island the current generally runs northward, but to the westward of it, in
Goonong Telia Bay, there is seldom mnch current.
From Current Island to Kema Road, the coast of Celebes may be approached to
3 miles, and in many places much nearer. The N. E. part of Celebes and the anchor-
ing places adjacent have been mentioned in a preceding section, where directions are
given for sailing from tiie Strait of Macassar into the Pacific Ocean.
Cape Talabo, or Talyabo, in about lat. 0° 48' S., is a steep headland, forming the
extreme of the peninsula that separates the bays of Tolo and Goonong Telia, and lies
about 20 leagues N.W. of the west end of the large island Xulla Talyabo.
Tosaiifiom Haviug Sailed through the Molucca Passage, between Lissamatula and Oby Major,
Pass'^agewest- 5'^*^ ^^'^^ ^^' ^^ ^ ^^''' track of Variable S. E. and East winds in the Pitt Passage, which
ward; will be favourable for running westward. From this position any route thought best
for proceeding into the Indian Ocean may be pursued at discretion. If you intend
to proceed by the Straits of Sunda, Lombock, Allass, or Sapy, the track round
the south end of Bouton and through the Straits of Salayer will be proper ; and
thence a course must be steered for the intended strait. In crossing over for the
Strait of Sapy, care must be taken to allow for a westerly current, which generally pre-
vails in the Easterly Monsoon; and in case of falling to leeward, proceed through
Allass Strait.
or througii the If bound to EuTopc or to the western side of Hindoostan, a ship coming out of the
otnba^Pas""* Molucca Passage may adopt the route through the Ombay Passage, by borrowing-
sage, towards Oby Major, that she may with greater facility pass on the east side of Bouro,
betwixt it and Manipa. From hence she ought to steer southward close by the wind,
which generally blows from E. S. E. in the Banda Sea during the South-east Mon-
soon ; although in Pitt Passage it prevails at S. E., and in the Molucca Passage
frequently at S. S. E.
Crossing from Manipa through the Banda Sea, M'ith the wind at E. S. E., a ship
that sails tolerably will generally be able to weather Ombay; and after passing
between it and Wetter, she may proceed along the N.W. coast of Timor, and pass out
into the ocean betwixt Semao and Savu.
This is the shortest route from Pitt Passage into the ocean, where the steady
EASTERN ROUTES TO CHINA. 585
S. E. trade wind may be expected ; it is the quickest mode of clearing the islands,
and in time of war probably less danger is to be apprehended from enemies' cruizers,
than in any of the straits farther westward.
If a ship cannot weather Ombay, she may steer along its north coast and pass through
the Strait of Alloo, or she may proceed on the same side the other islands to the west-
ward, then pass out by the Strait of Flores, formed betwixt the east end of the island
of this name and the adjacent islands Solor and Adenara. Should these straits be
considered inconvenient on account of their small breadth and the rapid tides, she
may continue to steer westward, keeping near the north coast of Flores to avoid
several dangerous shoals in the offing, and then proceed through the Strait of Sapy into
the Indian Ocean.
EASTERN ROUTES TO CHINA, BY PITT PASSAGE.
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE PASSAGE.
PITT PASSAGE was first pursued in the ship of this name by Captain Wilson, to Pitt Passage.
whom it occurred that an eastern passage might be made to China during the season
that the passage though the China Sea was considered impracticable, by making
sufficient easting with the North-west Monsoon, then blowing to the southward of the
equator, to enable him to reach China with the North-east Monsoon, prevailing in north
latitude. He sailed from Madras September 23rd, 1758, and passed through among
the Molucca Islands into the Pacific Ocean by Pitt Strait. But the space more par-
ticularly distinguished by the name of Pitt Passage is comprehended between the
islands Bouton to the westward, and Battanta and Salwatty to the eastward ; being
bounded on the south side by Bouro, Ceram, Mysole, and their contiguous isles ; and
on the north side by Xulla Bessy, Oby Major, and the chain of small islands stretch-
ing thence to Pulo Popa and towards the entrance of Dampier Strait.
Pitt Passage is connected with the Pacific Ocean by three principal channels, the
largest of which is the Gillolo Passage, formed betwixt the islands Gillolo and Way-
geeooe ; the next, Dampier Strait, formed betwixt the latter island and Battanta ;
the third, Pitt Strait, betwixt Battanta and Salwatty ; and besides these. Revenge
Strait, betwixt Salwatty and the coast of New Guinea, which is intricate and not
frequented.
The route through Pitt Passage and into the Pacific Ocean by the Gillolo Passage,
or by Dampier Strait, seems preferable to that through Macassar Strait, during the
months of December, January, and February ; for nortiierly winds and strong south-
erly currents, which greatly prevail in the latter strait during these montlis, will pro-
bably render the progress through it very slow ; whereas, the Nortii-west Monsoon
blowing southward of the equator through Pitt Passage is favourable for getting
speedily into the ocean.
OMBAY PASSAGE may be adopted by ships coming from Europe, it being omba) Pa?-
much wider, and the winds generally more steady than in any of the straits westward. *^"^-
VOL. II. 4 F
586
JAVA SEA.
A ship entering the Ombay Passage may pass on either side Sandalwood Island,
but the south side is preferable, steering eastward between Timor and Ombay.
Havin"' rounded the east end of the latter, she ought to steer northward close by the
wind, in order to weather Bouro ; but if any difficulty appear in doing so, she may
pass betwixt the east end of that island and Manipa into Pitt Passage ; then proceed
eastward as if she had come through the Strait of Salayer.
To sail by the
Strait of Sunda
towards Pitt
Passage.
SHIPS from HINDOOSTAN, bound to China by Pitt Passage in time of peace,
often adopt the route through Sunda Strait, instead of the passage southward of Java.
After entering this strait, they may steer to the northward of the Thousand Islands,
and from the North Watcher to the eastward through the Java Sea. But when in
want of water and refreshments, it may be prudent to touch for supplies at Batavia.
Departing from Batavia in the North-west Monsoon, and bound to the Straits of
Salayer, when clear of Edam, steer E. by N. ^ N. for some time, in order to pass well
to the northward of Bumkin Island, or shoal; this is more necessary during thick
weather, when observations for latitude are not obtained, because the current sets some-
times E. S. Eastward. This danger will be described in one of the following sections,
under the title " Straits to the Eastward of Java ;" it is about 30 leagues eastward of
Bumkin Island Edam, with Pulo Rackit to the S. S. W. of it, nearer the Java shore. If the depth of
water be increased to 30 fathoms, you will pass to the northward of Bumkin Island,
or Shoal, at a reasonable distance ; there are, however, overfalls of 20 to 20 fathoms
nearly close to it ; therefore, do not borrow under 28 fathoms when passing in the
and Pulo
Rackit.
Carimon Java,
and adjoining
isles.
night.
ISLANDS AND DANGERS IN THE JAVA SEA.
CARIMON JAVA, in lat. 5° 50' S., Ion. 110° 34' E. by chronometer measured
from Batavia, is a high island with an elevated hill in the centre, bearing from Edam
East a little northerly, distant about 73 leagues. Adjoining to it are several small
islands and rocks, some of which abound with deer, and fresh water may be got by
digging on them. One of these, a flat woody island, is distant about 2^ or 3 leagues
W. N. W. of the principal island ; their shores are mostly rocky, and some of them
are connected by reefs. A ship may anchor among these islands in 20 to 24 fathoms,
ooze, and procure wood and water,
ward of them are 31 to 32 fathoms
The soundings about 6 or 7 leagues to the north-
Lnbeck.
To sail to the
anchorage.
LUBECK ISLAND, or BABIAN (the body), is in lat. 5° 49' S., Ion. 112° 48' E.,
or 5° 56' East from Batavia by our chronometers in the Anna, corresponding with the
observations of other navigators, bears nearly East from Carimon Java, distant about
44 leagues, and is of considerable extent, very high towards the centre and west end,
having some contiguous islets ; dangerous rocky shoals front its eastern part, to the
distance of 3 or 4 leagues, with 25 and 30 fathoms water about them.
Although this island is dangerous to approach at the S.E. and Eastern parts, on
account of the extensive shoals, there is good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, mud, on
the S. E. side of the N. E. point of the island. To avoid the shoals, a ship approach-
ing this anchorage should steer from the northward for the N. E. point of the island,
from which a reef projects about two cables' lengths, with 13 fathoms water close to.
Having rounded it, with a boat ahead sounding, she may steer to the southward and
anchor in the bay to the S. Eastward of the point, in 10 or 12 fathoms, mud, with the
Malay Town bearing VV. by S. about 1 or U miles distant. South extreme S. J E.,
JAVA SEA. 587
north point of the bay N. N. W. a W. about a mile, and three islands from S. E. f S. to
S. E. ^ E., distance off the nearest shore half a mile, and rather more than a cable's
length from the mud-bank in the bay. This is the position in which the Royal George
anchored in February, 1766, and procured a supply of good water, bufialoes, and
poultry ; some bullocks, with rice or paddy and calavances, may also be obtained ; this
place is, however, not frequented by English ships.
THE ARROGANT SHOAL, in lat. 5° 12' S., Ion. 11.3° 0' E., by mean of the Arrogant
chronometers of H.M.S. Arrogant, and those of the Dover Castle, corresponding to ^^""^
4 miles, is a dangerous coral shoal, discovered by the Arrogant, January 2.3rd, 1802,
about 1 1 leagues N. N. Eastward of Lubeck. The boat examined it, and found the
extent N.W. and S. E. about a quarter of a mile, with depths of 5 and 6 feet where she
could approach with safety, there being breakers on it at the time. The depths close to
the shoal were from 5 to 12 fathoms, and 25 fathoms at the distance of a cable's length.
This shoal is directly in the way of ships running eastward in thick weather, and
should be avoided by keeping within 6 or 7 leagues of Lubeck, or in lat. o^ 25' to
5° 30' S. From abreast Carimon Java, 32 and 33 fathoms is a fair track ; and when
6 or 7 leagues northward of Lubeck, an E. by S. ^ S. course will carry a ship 3 or
4 leagues southward of Great Solombo, in soundings from 32 to 37 fathoms : the
depths then decrease to 20 and 21 fathoms about 7 leagues S. Eastward of this island.
GREAT SOLOMBO, called also NOESA LOOMBO, or CATTLE ISLAND,* Great
bearing from Lubeck about E. | N., distant 33 leagues, is an island of considerable ^o'"'"'"'-
extent and moderate height : the hill on the S. E. part being of a square shape, with
a flat summit, is discernible about 8 leagues from the deck; but a long projection of
low land forms the greater part of the island. I made the hill in lat. 5° 33' S., Ion.
114° 28' E., or 7° 36' East from Batavia by chronometers, agreeing with Captain
Heywood, who made it 12° 13' East from Malacca by the same means.
LITTLE SOLOMBO, about 3 leagues to the northward, on the meridian of the LUtie
former, and nearly of the same extent, is a low woody island, its eastern extremity ^'•''""'"'•
bearing N. 2° E. from the hill of Great Solombo ; the channel between them is 4 or channel bc-
5 miles wide, and thought to be safe: the Friendship, proceeding from Batavia towards
Amboina, passed through it in December, 1802.
tween them.
ARENTES ISLAND, in lat. 5° 10' S., Ion. 114° 36' E., bears N. 20° E. from Arentes;
Little Solombo, about 6 leagues' distance; there is a little islet adjoining its south end,
and a small bay with a sandy beach at that part. On the west side, this island ought
to be approached with great caution, on account of the rocky spot thought to lie about adjacent
3 leagues oft" it, already mentioned in the directions given for sailing from Batavia ''""«"
towards the Strait of Macassar : but the south end of the island may be passed at the
distance of 3 or 4 miles, in 13 or 14 fathoms, the channel betwixt it and the Little
Solombo being safe.
Having passed to the southward of Great Solombo, steer eastward in the parallel of To sail from
lat. 5° 45' S., and endeavour to keep between lat. 5° 34' S. and 5° 50' S., if observa- fj^^^"'^'"
tions are not obtained ; for the current sometimes sets N. E. towards the entrance of
♦ It is said to abound with wild cattle, and that fresh water may be got at these islands; but Captain Shel-
drake, in a brig bound to Port Jackson, who anchored at Great Solombo in order to procure water and refresh-
ments, was cut off', and his vessel taken by the Malays, which shews the impropriety of touching at this place.
4 F 2
588
JAVA SEA.
Kiilkoon
Islands.
N. Western
Postillion
Islands.
To pass be-
tween them
and the Brill
Shoal.
North Chan-
nel.
Noesa Comba.
The Sibbald
Bank.
Macassar Strait. This latitude ought not to be exceeded to the southward, on account
of Kalkoon Islands and the shoals adjoining, for they are low islands, stretching to the
northward of the large island of Kangelang, as far as lat. 6° 10' S., and situated in
about Ion. 115° 47' E. After running about 50 leagues eastward of Great Solombo,
when the channel southward of the Brill Shoal is to be pursued, edge a little more to
the southward, keeping in about lat. 6° 16' S. in passing betwixt the south end of that
shoal and the northernmost of the Postillions. The N. Westernmost of the
Postillions is in lat. 6° 32' S., Ion. 118° 48' E., or 11 miles westward of the Brill
Shoal, by a view of it which we had from the mast-head of the Anna in passing be-
tween them.
The mid-channel track is about 6° 10' S., and when the weather is clear, you may
borrow towards the Brill Shoal in the daytime, and pass in sight of its southern ex-
tremity ; but to run through betwixt it and the Postillions during the night would be
imprudent if the latitude of your ship be not correctly known.
THE NORTH CHANNEL, formed betwixt the Brill Shoal and the Island
Tanakeka, seems preferable to the former, particularly in the North-west Monsoon ;
for in clear weather the S.VV. part of the Celebes may be seen from the north end of
the shoal, and the Tonyn and Tanakeka Islands, which bound the north side of the
channel will answer as guides to point out a ship's position. Prior to giving direc-
tions for sailing through this channel, it is necessary to describe briefly the neighbour-
ing banks and dangers.
NOESA COMBA, in about lat. 5° 15' S., Ion. 117° 9' E., is a low island to the
southward of the islands Noesa Seras, already mentioned in the directions given for
sailing from Batavia towards the Strait of Macassar. These form the S. Westernmost
group of the Celebes Archipelago, having irregular soundings about them ; and a
shoal bank is thought to stretch from Noesa Comba to the southward, rendering a
near approach to it on that side unsafe.
The Aurora, November 23rd, 1816, shoaled suddenly from 35 to 10 fathoms on a
coral bank, apparently about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, upon which several
casts of 4f fathoms were got, with the appearance of less water to the southward and
eastward. From 5 fathoms the depth increased gradually to 24 fathoms, no ground,
steering S.W. : Noesa Comba was obscured in a squall, when she was on the bank in
shoal water, which her observations placed in lat. 5° 26' S., Ion. 117° 0' E. by chrono-
meters, measured from the east point of Bouton.
The Sibbald, Captain Forbes, March 28th, 1816, had soundings from 20 to 7 fathoms,
coral, the least water upon a bank named the Sibbald Bank, which appeared not to
be extensive, although she seems to have passed over its western part, and deepened
off to 60 fathoms, no ground, steering N. N.W. When in 7 fathoms on it, she was in
lat. 5° 46' S., Ion. 117° 15' E. by chronometers from Batavia; and it probably extends
from lat. 5° 43' to lat. 5° 47' S., forming the southern limit of the banks to the south-
ward of Noesa Comba.
The London, December 15th, 1824, in lat. 5° 46' S., Ion. 117° 4' E., saw rocks
under the bottom ; hauled to S. Eastward 7 miles, and had soundings of 6 to 5, 5^, and
7 fathoms, gradually deepening to 20 fathoms, which soundings were thought to be on
an extension of the Sibbald Bank.
(aloeohij.
CALOEOHIJ, or ROTTERDAM ISLAND, is said to have good water on it,
JAVA SEA.
589
Hen and
Chickens.
Bank adjoin-
ing.
and is distant about 9 leagues nearly East from Noesa Comba ; there is a safe channel
betwixt them, very little known to English navigators.
THE HEN AND CHICKENS are a group of low islands, some of which are
detached considerably from each other, being of greater extent East and West than is
generally represented. They form the southern group of a chain of islands which
stretches from them a great way northward. By mean of several ships' observations,
with chronometers agreeing within 4 or 5 miles of each other, the southernmost islands
of the Hen and Chickens are in lat. 5° 28' S., Ion. 117° 54' E.
A coral bank extends around these islands to a considerable distance, with very irre-
gular depths on it in some places : it projects about 4 or 5 leagues southward of the
islands, the depths on the southern part being generally from 14 to 25 fathoms, but as
there are only 4 and 5 fathoms about .3^ leagues to the southward of tliese islands, it is
prudent to keep at least 4 or 5 leagues from them : particularly as the Mangles, in
December, 1805, saw the water much discoloured ahead, when in 15 fathoms about
3 leagues off them, which obliged her to haul to the southward.
SAFLANAFF, ZALINAF, or LAARS ISLAND, in about lat. 5° 31' S., Ion. saflanair.
118° 25' E. by chronometers, bearing about E. ^ S. 10 or 11 leagues from the
southernmost islands of Hen and Chickens, is a low woody island, and the southern-
most of a group lying on the north end of Laars Bank. This island is surrounded
with breakers, and ought not to be approached ; it and the other islands may be seen
5 leagues.
LAERS, or LAARS, or the BOOT, is an extensive coral bank, or range of Laers Bank.
banks, commencing at the island Saflanaff, and stretching about 5 leagues S. West-
ward ; it then takes a southerly direction, and extends to lat. 5° 52' S., or 5° 54' S.
The western verge of these banks is in about Ion. 117° 58' E., and the eastern part
in Ion. 118° 26' E., or 3° 58' E. from Great Solombo by chronometers, and nearly
south from Saflanaff: but in some parts their extent East and West appears to be
much less.
Ships generally cross over Laars Bank in lat. 5° 45' to 5° 50' S., although it is here
probabli/ of greater breadth and shoaler than in about lat. 5° 40' S.
Captain Hey wood, in H.M.S. La Dedaisneuse, December 19th, 1803, had sound-
ings of 13 to 7 fathoms in lat. 5° 48' S., Ion. 118° 25' E., or 3° 57' E. from Great
Solombo by chronometers, and immediately deepened off the eastern edge of the bank
to no ground : the bottom had been seen several times during the preceding run of
7 or 8 leagues to the eastward.
The True Briton, in lat. 5° 47' S., had soundings of 10 to 11 fathoms, in a run of
4 leagues to the eastward, or from Ion. 118° 5' to 118" 17' E., when passing in .January,
1802, and she saw the Hen and Chickens in Saflanaff.
The Ruby, in lat. 5° 47' S., and 48 miles West of Tanakeka, or in Ion. 118° 31' E.,
had from 10 to fathoms, coral rock, in 1799, in a run of 2 or 3 miles. The Revenge
and Glatton, in lat. 5° 53' S., got into 5 fathoms ; and the Althea, in 1800, had 10 and
11 fathoms in lat. 5° 53^' S.,1on. 118° 29' E., or 1° -59' West from Middle Island m
Salayer Strait, by chronometer.
The Apollo, Captain Tarbutt, March 16th, 1813, in lat. 5° 48' S., Ion. 118° 15' E.,
got into 12 ftithoms, coral, Saflanafl' Island, seen from the mast-iiead, bearing N. E. by
N., which seemed to be a bank about a mile iu extent: a little farther eastward she
690 JAVA SEA.
got no ground ; but seeing a proa or junk apparently fishing on another coral bank,
two boats were sent to sound, and found 10 fathoms between the ship and the proa,
and 6 fathoms, coral, round the latter. The ship had also from 15 to G^ fathoms in
crossing over this bank, which appeared to extend half a mile East and West, and is
in lat. 5° 48' S., Ion. 118° 20' E.
Where these last-mentioned five ships had shoal soundings may probably be small
spots detached from the eastern edge of Laars Bank, and it may be only the termina-
tion of its southern extremity.
The Anna, in December, 1806, after passing in sight of the Hen and Chickens, from
the poop bearing North, steered E. by S. and E. ^ S. 24 miles, then got a few casts of
12 to 25 fathoms, and immediately afterwards no ground : the observed lat. 5° 41' S.,
Ion. 1 18° 18' E. by chronometer, and a low woody island, supposed Saflanaff, bore N.E.
The Mangles, in December, 1805, saw one of the Hen and Chickens bearing N. by
E. 2^ or 3 leagues, and had 15 fathoms water ; shortly after another island was seen
bearing N. E., with the appearance of shoal water E. by N., which obliged her to haul
off South, and deepened to 25 fathoms in a run of 3 leagues, then bore away East at
noon. The weather being thick, and blowing strong, no observations were obtained,
and these islands were mistaken for Saflanaff and the other islands on Laars Bank:
but after running East 20 miles from noon, the Island Saflanaff was seen bearing
Dangers on the N. N. E. 5 Or 6 miles distant, with many breakers to the East and westward of it, and
shoal water bearing E. N. E. At this time they had 17 fathoms, and shoal discoloured
water was also discerned outside, extending from S.W. toS.S.W., with an apparent
clear passage from E. S. E. to E. by N. ; through this she was forced to push, it
being impossible to weather the southern shoal from the violence of the gale ; and
the least water in running through was 16 fathoms. When through this channel, they
hauled up under the lee of the outside shoal, and had no ground 50 fathoms.
This ship's jjassage over Laars Bank seems to have been in about lat. 5° 34' or
5° 35' S., or within 4 or 5 miles of the island Saflanaff', which is too far to the north-
ward ; for, although she found a safe channel, the shoal on the outside of it is pro-
bably dangerous, and appears to be in about lat. 5° 35' or 5° 36' S.
The Warwick, January 5th, 1761, with Saflanaff bearing N.E. by N., distant
2 leagues, and another island E. N. E., got into 4f fathoms, and anchored ; the water
appeared very shoal all round, and the boat, in sounding, found the deepest water be-
twixt the ship and Saflanaff, being there from 7 to 12 fathoms. While at anchor in
this situation, a hard squall made her drive, and she had instantly 9 fathoms, next cast
no ground 50 fathoms. This ship approached too near to these islands ; the shoal
bank on which she anchored is probably not far from the place where the Mangles
saw the appearance of danger. The Dutch frigate Zephyr got into 4^ fathoms, with
the above-mentioned island, seen by moonlight, bearing E. N. E. ; she anchored im-
mediately, but the anchor slipped off the shoal into 80 fathoms, no ground. The
Sibbald, April 1st, 1816, having light S. E. winds, passed over Laars Bank far to the
northward, and at midnight got into 9 fathoms, coral, in lat. 5° 35' S., Ion. 118° 32' E.,
then tacked to southward and soon deepened ; the Island Saflanaff having been seen
on the preceding evening from the mast-head bearing N. N.W.
It has generally been thought, that in proportion as the distance is increased from
Saflanaff to the southward, the depths on the bank increase; this does not appear to
Directions for be the casc. In lat. 5° 40' S. to 5° 41' S., the Anna, in crossing, got only a few casts
{hTi!!fnk''" of soundings, least water 12 fathoms, the bank being very narrow in that part. Other
ships have crossed over nearly in the same latitude, and had no less than 11 or
JAVA SEA. 591
12 fathoms water: whereas it appears, by the extracts given above, that several ships
in crossing it to the southward of lat. 5° 47' S. have obtained shoal soundings from
7 to 5 fathoms ; and in this part, Captain Heywood found the bank to be of great ex-
tent East and West, formed of spits or patches of coral and sand.
THE FIVE FATHOMS BANK is the southernmost shoal patch yet known of FWe Fathoms
those numerous coral patches, which appear to form the southern extremity of Laars ^*°''"
Bank. June 21st, 1813, the Apollo, returning from Amboina, at 7h. .']0m. a.m.
struck soundings of 5 fathoms on this bank, in lat. 5° 52' S., Ion. 1 18° 2(y E. ; after-
wards, in crossing over it, she had 8, 7, Gj, of, then deepened gradually to lo fathoms,
and to no bottom in 18 minutes after first getting on the bank, steering West.
From what has been stated, it seems that the best track to cross over Laars Bank Best track to
is betwixt lat. 5° 40' and 5° 40' S., if your position is correctly known by observation ; '"=p'"^"*"*-
but in thick weather, a wide berth should be given to the islands, by keeping well to
the southward ; for there is thought to be no danger on the southern parts of this bank,
or banks. It is, however, unpleasant in a large ship to get into 5 or (j fathoms when
there is much swell, which may possibly happen ; the track between lat. 5^ 40' and
5° 46' S. seems, therefore, the best to be pursued by large ships.
THE TONYN ISLANDS, like the other islands adjacent, are low and woody; Tonyn islands,
the S. Westernmost is in about lat. 5° 31' S., Ion. 118° 30' E., bearing East from Safla-
naff, 9 or 10 miles distant. The easternmost Tonyn Island, in about lat. 5^ 31' S.,
Ion. 118° 46' E. by chronometer, bears East from the S. Western one, distant 10 miles;
and northward of the latter there is another island. The two westernmost islands are
surrounded by a dangerous shoal, whicii projects several miles southward of the
S. Westernmost island; then it stretches eastward, nearly to the easternmost island.
H.M.S. Swallow, by borrowing towards these islands, got into 3 fathoms, coral rocks,
on the edge of this shoal.
Tiie Sibbald, April 1st, 1816, at noon, saw the westernmost Tonyn Island from the
deck, bearing N. by W. f W., distant 4 or 5 leagues, the easternmost island, then in
sight from the fore-yard, bearing from N. E. ^ N. to N. E. i E., observed lat. o° 44' S.,
Ion. 118° 43' E. by chronometer, and they both appeared low, and covered with trees.
April 2nd, at sun-set, the westernmost Tonyn Island was seen from the mizen-
rigging bearing W. ^ N., and the easternmost island N.W. by W., distant 8 or 10 miles ;
from this position she steered N. E. by E. 18 miles, with a S. Easterly wind, and
shoaled suddenly at midnight from no ground at GO to 5 fathoms, immediately tacked
to the southward, and deepened to oi, 7, 9, 16 liithoms, then no ground in minutes.
She made this shoal in about lat. 5° 27' S., Ion. liy°o'E., which is probably the shoal
bank extendins: westward from the Three Brothers.
'&
TANAKEKA, or TUNIKIK ISLAND, in lat. 5° 34' S., Ion. 119° 24' E.* by xanakekaand
chronometers from Great Solombo, bearing nearly East from the easternmost Tonyn j^l^^'"
Island, 11^ or 12 leagues distance, has a level appearance, and may be seen or
7 leagues. It is separated from the S.W. part of Celebes by a navigable channel,
about 3 or 4 miles wide, with soundings from fathoms towards the main, to 10 or
12 fathoms near tiie reef that lines the east side of Tanakeka, soft bottom in some parts,
but frequently coral. In passing tiirougii, keep nearly in mid-channel, or rather channel
nearest to Tanakeka, for the Dutch frigate Zephyr, passing through in soundings of^^''^'"'^-
* Captain A. Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1829, made it in Ion. 119^ 25J' E.
592
CELEBES, SOUTH-WEST PART.
The Brill
Shoal.
8 and 9 fathoms, got suddenly into 6, then 3 fathoms, close to breakers, and imme-
diately deepened to 11 and 13 fathoms in hauling over for Tanakeka, the north point
of which bore W. S.W. when on the shoal; the distance from the shore of Celebes
appeared to be nearly 3 miles. Regular soundings are found from Tanakeka in a
southerly direction, it being safe to approach on that side ; but from the islands called
the Three Brothers, which lie to the N.W., there is a rocky bank stretching out to the
westward, with shoal water on its northern part.
THE BRILL SHOAL is very dangerous, being steep to, and directly in the track
of ships steering eastward for the Straits of Salayer. Returning from China in the
Anna, we saw this shoal rather unexpectedly, August 7th, 1793. By noon observa-
tion, when the south end of the shoal bore W. by N., made its southern extremity in
lat. 6° 5' S., Ion. 119° 0' E. ; or 1° 28' W. from Middle Island in Salayer Strait, and
4° 32' E. from Great Solombo by chronometer. The northern extremity of the shoal
is in about lat. 6° 0' S., or 6° 1' S. ; by a good view of it from the mast-head, its extent
appeared to be about 4 miles North and South, and rather less from East to West.
Having a fresh breeze, with a considerable swell, there was a continued chain of
breakers round the verge of the shoal ; but within the breakers the water was smooth,
of a light green colour. Although the sea probablt/ breaks very little upon the shoal
during fine weather, it must be easily distinguished in daylight by the discoloured
water. Besides, the rocks on the N.W. part are nearly even with the water's edge;
as the Pitt's boat went to it in 1792, during a calm, and found only 2 feet water in
some places. This shoal appears to be about 10 or 11 leagues East of the meridian of
the eastern verge of Laars Bank.
Sailing direc-
tions to the
Straits of
Salayer.
South-west
end of Celebes.
PASSAGE THROUGH SALAYER STRAIT.
DEPARTING from GREAT SOLOMBO, when the channel northward of the Brill
Shoal is to be followed, steer eastward about 50 leagues, keeping between lat. 5° 36' and
5° 50' S. When the meridian of the Hen and Chickens is approached, cross over Laars
Bank, in the parallel of 5° 43' S., if observations can be obtained for latitude, by day or
by night. But if the latitude is not correctly determined, it will be prudent to keep a
little farther southward, to avoid the dangers adjacent to the islands ; in such case it
seems prudent not to pass the Brill Shoal in the night, unless the latitude is ascer-
tained within a few miles, as the currents are uncertain, and sometimes set strong to
southward.
During the day, when the weather is favourable, keep in lat. 5° 43' S., as recom-
mended above, to get a sight of the islands from the mast-head or poop ; and if the
Tonyn Islands are seen, they will point out the approach to the meridian of the Brill
Shoal. Having passed the islands, continue an easterly course for the S.W. end of
Celebes, or to get a sight of Tanakeka at 4 or 5 leagues' distance in passing.
THE SOUTH-WEST END OF CELEBES, called LAYK, or LAYKEN
POINT, in lat. 5° 37' S., Ion. 119° 33' E., should have a berth of 3 miles, on account
of a coral bank projecting from it 1^ or 2 miles ; but the water shoals near it to 15 or
12 fathoms, and there are 5 and 4 fathoms on its edge. When this coast is ap-
proached, pass along it about 2 leagues distance, by steering well into Bonthian Bay
when the Manfield Shoal is approached, if you intend to pass within it ; and having
brought Bonthian Hill to bear N. by W. ^ W., or N. N.W., you will be clear of it, and
CELEBES, SOUTH-WEST PART. 593
may then haul offshore to pass through the Salayer Strait, between Middle and South
Islands.
The south coast of Celebes is fronted by a bank of tolerably regular soundings, south coast of
stretching 2 or 3 leagues out from it in some places, which is a guide in sailing along ''*'^''^^
in the night ; but off the bay of Baakele, situated to the eastward of Layken Point,
there is deep water. Turatte Point, in lat. 5° 39' S., lies 3 leagues eastward of Layken
Point; and inland to the north-westward of Bonthian Bay stands Bonthian Moun-
tain, of astonishing elevation, from whence the land slopes down in ridges, until it
becomes low in some parts close to the sea.
Boele Comba Hill, in Ion. 120° 9' E. by chronometer, is not very conspicuous when uoeie comba
first seen in coming from the westward, but when abreast it becomes an excel- '''"
lent mark, being a high conical hill, standing by itself on the low land near the sea, to
the N.W. of Boele Comba. There is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom,
about 2 miles off the village of Bonthian, at the north part of the bay of that name.
Boele Comba also affords good anchorage; it is a small Dutch settlement farther east-
ward, with the hill over it bearing IN. N.W. ^ W., and the flagstaff of Boele Comba
N. N.W. 2J or 3 miles, in GJ or 7 fathoms, sand and mud. The Sibbald anchored
here April 7th, 1816, in 11 fathoms, sand, about 2^ miles off shore, Boele Comba Hill Anchorage.
bearing N.W. ^ N., Point Lassao, the eastern extreme of Celebes, called Berak by the
natives, E. ^ S., West extreme of Celebes W. ^ S., Flagstaff of Boele Comba Fort
N.W. by W. ; here she lay two days, and filled up her water, then proceeded along
the north coast of Flores towards Amboina. H. M. ships Powerful, Terpsiciiore,
and Drake, touched here December 17th, 1806, but could not procure good water or
refreshments at this time. They however discovered Denneloang River on the east Denneioang
side Boele Comba Bay, and found it navigable by long boats a considerable way up, ""'"'"^ '"*'■
except at last quarter ebb. Here they watered speedily, by sending the boats about a
quarter of a mile up the river, and filling alongside : a few buffaloes and some fruit
were also procured from the natives, who inhabit several villages near the banks of tlie
river, one side of which is under the control of the Dutch, and the other under the
King of Boni.
The Drake, at anchor about a mile off the mouth of this river, in 20 fathoms, stiff A^ichoiage
mud, and good holding ground, made the lat. 5° 34' S., by observation, Boele Comba "
village bearing West, the north point of the river's mouth N. by E., south-east point of
Celebes East, North Island E. by S. ^ S., South Island S. E. by E. f E., and the north
point of Salayer S. 58|^° E.
A coral reef projects nearly 2 miles from the western point of the watering bay, and
is steep to ; ships ought, therefore, not to anchor under 20 fothoms, for the Powerful
let go her anchor in 17 fathoms, and swung into 4 fathoms. There are brisk land and
light sea breezes in this bay, during the North-west Monsoon, whilst the wind in the
offing is blowing strong through the Straits of Salayer.
THE MANSFIELD SHOAL is of considerable extent; the ship of this name Ma„sneid
had soundings of 3| fathoms, coral rock, December 16th, 1780, with a peaked hill* ^'""''•
bearing about N. h W., then distant 4 or 5 leagues from Celebes shore ; and it
is thought to bear about West from South Island in Salayer Strait, distant 5 or
6 leagues.
» Thought to be Boele Comba Hill, which is called sometimes Bonthian Hill, and lies to the N.N. Westward
of Boele Comba ; but that called Boele Comba Mountain by the Dutch lie:; in lat. 5^ -23' S., and is 5 miles to
the eastward of the Flagstaff of Boele Comba.
VOL. II. 4
594
CELEBES, SOUTH-WEST PART.
Other coral
banks.
Amboina
Shoal.
This ship got suddenly off the shoal into deep water, and the boat was sent to
examine it. With the Peaked Hill bearing from N. ^ W. to N. by W., South Island
East, Salayer E. by S. to S. E. by S., and the extremes of Celebes from N. E. by E.
to N.VV. by W., distant 4 or 5 leagues, she had mostly regular soundings from 5 to
10 fathoms on the shoal ; but it being extensive, she must have missed the shoalest
parts; for where the ship got upon it there was less water, and on some parts of it the
depths are said to be from 3 to 3^ fathoms.
The Sibbald, April 5th, 1816, at 10 a.m., steering East, got suddenly from having no
soundings into 10 fathoms, coral, and immediately anchored, with the northern ex-
treme of Salayer appearing like an island bearing East, the centre of South Island
E. f N., Berak Point or south extreme of Celebes N. E. by E., Boele Comba Hill or
Peaked Hill on Celebes N. by VV., and Middle Island, just seen from the mast-head,
bearing about E. by N. | N. The boat found 6^ fathoms near the ship, but not less ;
weighed and kept her ahead sounding, and steering E. by N. ^ N., deepened in a run
of 2 miles to 60 fathoms, no ground.
These soundings appear to have been obtained on the Mansfield Shoal, but not on
its shoalest part, and the meridian altitude of a star at 4 a.m. made it in lat. 5° 45' S.
The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen, places this shoal in Ion. 120° 13J' E. by
chronometers.
There are soundings contiguous to it, which soon deepen off to the southward to no
ground ; but they extend from the shoal to the Celebes shore.
Besides the Mansfield Shoal, there are said to be two coral banks farther eastward,
on one of which, January 22nd, 1800, the ship Thomas had 7^ fathoms, and saw the
bottom very plainly, with the Peaked Hill N.W. | N., and Middle Island E. by S. i S.,
distant about 2 leagues off the Celebes shore ; she hauled from it to southward, and
deepened quickly to 40 fathoms, no ground. The ship Amboina, February 19th,
1800, tacked close to ripplings or breakers on the other, with Middle Island bearing
East, which is a circular shoal about half a mile in extent, with a small rock even with
the water, and this was a light green colour upon the shoal. When it bore South,
about a quarter of a mile distant, Boele Comba Flagstaff bore N.W. 9 or 10 miles;
West extreme of Celebes W. by N., and its eastern extreme E. f N. ; North Island
E. i N., and the North Point of Salayer S. E. i E.
AMBOINA SHOAL, seen by Captain T. Harrington, of the Scaleby Castle,
January 17th, 1812, about 11 a.m., when shoal water was seen on the larboard bow,
steering E. by S., put the helm down with the hope of clearing it to the southward,
but immediately afterwards seeing coral rocks under water, close to the ship, on the
weather quarter, up helm again, and providentially cleared the shoal, although not
without touching on it, at the same time there appeared to be 4^ fathoms alongside,
by the lead.
No soundings were got till close upon the shoal, and the water over it was of a bright
green colour, with a strong rippling, but not breaking sufficiently to attract notice at
any distance. The shoal appeared to be about half a mile across in an East and West
direction, and immediately after clearing it, the Peaked Hill, indistinctly seen, bore
N.W., Point Lassoa E. by N., body of North Island E. | N., Middle Island E.f S.,
body of South Island E. S. E., North Point of Salayer S. E. by E. f E., and the south-
west point of Hog Island S. ^ E.
The Lady Melville, January 2nd, 1821, at 9 a.m., saw a shoal from the mast-head,
bearing about S. E. by S., with very green water all over it; it appeared to be about
SALAYER STRAIT.
595
2 miles in extent, and distant 1 or 1^ miles from the ship, Bonthian Hill bearing
N.W. i N., North Island E.i N., South Island just visible from the mast-head, our
distance off the Celebes shore 10 or 12 miles, in 14 fathoms. This may probably be
the Amboina Shoal, and we were from 9 to 11^ a.m. working out between it and the
Mansfield Shoal, blowing hard with thick weather, under double reefs, in soundings
from 12 to 15 fathoms.
This passage inside the Mansfield Shoal seems very unsafe in the westerly monsoon,
as we experienced great difficulty in getting to the southward out of Bonthian Bay, for
the line of bearing of the above-mentioned shoal leaves but a narrow space between it
and the Mansfield Shoal.
Besides the Mansfield and Amboina Shoals, which are tioiv known to be dangerous, other Banks.
other banks lie to the eastward of the former, at a greater distance from the coast of
Celebes than hitherto supposed, as will appear by the following extract from the Sib-
bald's journal ; but they are probably clear of danger.
April 0th, 1816, having anchored on the Manfield Shoal at 10 a.m. yesterday, after
weighing at 11 a.m. steered E. by N. 4 N. 3 miles with a light air, and got no bottom
with 100 fathoms line, till half an hour past noon, then had 22 fathoms, gravel, with
several casts afterwards from 25 to 46 fathoms ; when we had no ground 100 fathoms
outside the western edge of this bank, South Island bore E. ^ N., South Point of
Celebes or Berak Point N. E. by E., Boele Comba N. N.W., Middle Island seen from
the mizen shrouds E. f N. From hence, steered about East 3 miles, and had no
soundings till 5 p.m., then got round 26 fathoms, decreasing to 19 fathoms, sand and
gravel, and anchored, Berak Point N, E. ^E., North Island N. E. by E., Boele Comba
Hill N. N.W. iW., Middle Island just in sight E. by N. i N., North Point of Salayer
E. by S., South Island East, South extreme of Celebes nearly on with the north end
of North Island bearing N. E. | E.
THE WHALE, called SONTELAND'S ROTZEN by the Dutch, is a shoal, whaiesi.oui.
about a quarter of a mile in extent, having only 2^ fathoms, sharp rocks, on it in some
places, with soundings contiguous, and between it and Hog Island, from the N.W. Hop island.
part of which it is distant about 4 miles. From its shoalest part the north end of
Salayer bears N. N. E., and the south end of the same S. by E., on with Hog Island,
which is a low island of considerable length, stretching parallel to the west side of
Salayer, at a small distance.
SALAYER STRAIT, called BOEGERONES by the Dutch, formed betwixt the saiayer strait.
north end of the island of this name and the point of Celebes opposite, is separated
into several channels by three islands, called generally. North, Middle, and South
Islands. The South point of Celebes, which bounds the north side of this strait,
is of round form, moderately elevated, covered with trees; and the coast from thence
westward, embracing the bays of Boele Comba and Bonthian, is low near the sea, with
high mountains inland to N. Westward. North Island is low and level, and when far North island.
off shore, coming from westward, it is seen on with the South Point of Celebes ; but
when viewed from eastward a wide space appears between them. The channel be-
twixt the Point of Celebes and Nortli Island is not frequented by ships, although said
to have 1(5 and 24 fathoms, soft ground.*
arm
* A Dutcli officer at Batavia stated to me that there were some rocks in it ; that it was never used by them ;
also, that a Dutch ship was lost in endeavouring to push through, betwixt the north point of Salayer and
th Island.
4g 2
596
SALAYER STRAIT.
South Island.
Salayer Island.
Middle Island. Middle Island, the smallest of the three, but nearly of the same height as the others,
may be discerned about the distance of 5 leagues from the deck, and is bold to approach,
being steep to. I made it in lat. 5°40'S. by noon observation, when bearing West,
and in Ion. 120° 28' E. by chronometers, or 1 3° 36' E. of Batavia, corresponding exactly
with other navigators.* There is a safe channel on either side Middle Island ; that
between it and North Island is about 3 miles wide, and since the ship Amboina found
a coral bank in it, the south channel has been preferred. This ship, passing between
Middle and North Islands, February 10th, 1800, got suddenly into 14, then into 8|-
fathoms, rocks, with the body of Middle Island bearing South, distant about 2^ miles,
and in three casts steering S. E. she deepened to 55 fathoms. There is probably not
less than 1^ or 8 fathoms water on this bank, and it seemed to be of small extent.
The channel between Middle and South Islands is about 4 or 5 miles wide, without
soundings, clear of danger, and is generally adopted by ships passing through these
straits.
South Island is larger than Middle Island, and rather higher ; a coral flat projects
from it to S.W. and southward, and another, fronting it, stretches out from the north
end of Salayer ; but, to appearance, there is a narrow gut between them, \\\\\c\i probably
would afford a passage to a ship in a case of absolute necessity, by the help of a good
look-out kept for the shoals from the mast-head.
Salayer Island, called Boegeroens by the Dutch, extending nearly North and
South about 10 leagues, is of moderate height, well cultivated, and abounding with in-
habitants. The north point, fronting South Island, is in lat. 5° 49' S., and on the same
meridian ; the land over the point being rather higher than the islands adjacent, and
joined to the body of Salayer by a low neck of land, makes the north end of Salayer
also appear isolated, when first seen either from eastward or westward. Several proas
are generally observed about the villages at the north part of Salayer ; and on the N.W.
side, about 3 or 4 miles S. S. Westward of the south point of South Island, there is a
considerable village, with shoals and rocks stretching out from it. The Althea an-
chored in 28 fathoms, close to the shoals about 2 miles off shore, in August, 1806, with
a view to procure refreshments at this village, but she could only get a few coco-nuts,
the inhabitants being afraid of the Dutch getting intelligence of an English ship hav-
ing touched there. The bottom was so rocky, that they could not purchase the anchor,
and were obliged to cut from it. When at anciior. Middle Island bore N. by E. ^E.,
the east end of South Island and north point of Salayer, nearly touching, N. E. ^ N.,
west extreme of Salayer S.^^W., Bonthian Hill N.W. ^N.; but a ship should not
anchor here.
To sail through the Strait of Salayer, if you intend to pass outside the Mansfield
Shoal, which is the best track with a south-westerly wind, keep out of soundings, about
b\ or 6 leagues from the coast of Celebes, when Bontliian Hill bears between N. ^E.
and N. by W. ; and when the north end of Salayer is discerned, by keeping its extreme
point East, but nothing to the southward of this bearing, you will pass clear on the
south side of the shoal. When Bonthian Hill is visible, and brought to bear
* This longitude of Middle Island is probably a near approximation to truth ; for it is remarkable, that
Captain Hey wood made it in Ion. 120° 28' E. by chronometer from Malacca in 1603, and Captain Richardson,
in the same year, made it 16° 2' East of Pedra Branca by chronometers, which places it in Ion. 120° 27^' E. The
Mangles, in 1805, made it in 16° 2^' East of Pedra Branca by chronometer, or in Ion. 120° 28' East; and Captain
Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1797, made it in Ion. 120° 28' East by chronometers. In 1802, the same ship
made it three miles more to the westward by chronometers. The Asia, in 1805, made it in 120' 30' East by
chronometers; and the Anna made it in the same Ion. in 1806. Captain Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1820,
made it in Ion. 120° 27' E.
To sail
through Sa-
layer Strait.
ISLANDS, BAYS, ETC., NEAR THE SOUTH-EAST PART OF CELEBES. 597
N. by W.^ W. or N. by W., steer direct for Middle Island, and pass betwixt it and
South Island, borrowing on either side, as the wind or circumstances require.
During the night, or in light winds, the route along the coast of Celebes, inside the
Mansfield Shoal, seems preferable ; here, the depths being moderate for anchoring, if
necessary, witli soundings extending out about 2 or .3 leagues from the shore, answers
as a guide in the night, or in thick weather; whilst at such times no marks are visil)le
from the outer channel. But in the day, when strong winds sometimes blow between
West and S.W., the passage outside the Mansfield Shoal ought to be adopted : for with
S.W. winds it is sometimes difficult to get out of Bonthian Bay between the shoals,
particularly in thick blowing weather.
If, however, the Inner passage be pursued, after having approached the coast of
Celebes, you ought to preserve the distance of 4 to 6 miles from it, until Bonthian
Hill is brought to bear N. by W. ^ W. ; being then past the Mansfield Shoal, edge out
4 or 5 leagues from the shore, before the hill is brought so far westerly as N.W. by N.,
or by the time the islands in Salayer Strait are all bold in sight from the deck. Or as
soon as Middle Island is seen boldly from the quarter-deck, you should edge oft", until
it bear E. by N., to avoid the Amboina Shoal, then steer to pass through, about mid-
channel betwixt Middle and South Islands.
ISLANDS, BAYS, &c., NEAR THE SOUTH-EAST PART OF CELEBES.
THE TONIN, or BAGLAWANG ISLANDS, are of moderate height, and xm.in uianu^.
stretch a great way southward of the south end of Salayer ; and Tiger Islands and Shoals
stretch to south-eastward and eastward of it, at a considerable distance ; but this part is
little known, and generally avoided by navigators. There seems, however, to be a safe Passage r.ast
passage on the east side of Salayer, for the Anna fell in with an American ship oft" Xulla "^ '^'^y"-
Bessey, December 31st, 1806, which had been four days from AUass Strait, and two
nights of that time lying-to, with strong westerly gales. Being unable to fetch the
Straits of Salayer, she bore away round the south end of that island, and passetl along
the east side of it to the northward.
BON I, or BUGGES BAY, is formed by the two southern prongs of Celebes, and Boni Bay.
stretches about 3 degrees northward, into the middle of the island. The navigation of
this bay is rendered dangerous and intricate by numerous shoals, and, being little
known, a ship intending to proceed into it in order to trade must be guided by a good
look-out, with boats sounding ahead, tliere being moderate depths for anchorage
among many of the shoals. Tiie river and principal town of Boni are situated near the
head of the bay on the west side, in about lat. 3°S. ; there is good anchorage oft" it in
8 or 10 fathoms water.*
CAMBYNAis a large island, inhabited and cultivated, rising steep and rugged from cami.yna.
its western extremity towards a high peak in the centre, where it breaks into liills,
two of whidi form its eastern end ; it lies to tiie westward of the south entrance of
Bouton Strait. The peak is in about lat. 5° 21' S., Ion. 121° 57' E.,t or 1° 29' E. from
* This place has been at times visited by one or two ships from Bens"!, with o])iiim luid piecc-gooils, in
expectation of receiving gold dust, &c., in return for those articles; but these ships were generally disappointed
in their prospects of a lucrative trade.
f Captain Hamilton, in 1820, made it in Ion. ISPSI'E. ; the centre of South Island, off Bouton, he made
in Ion. 122^ 30' E., and Hegadis in Ion. 122" 30' E.
598
BOUTON ISLAND.
Middle Island in Salayer Strait by chronometers ; and the south end of the island is
in lat. 5° 30' S. Off the south or S. E, end there are one or two small isles ; and about
2 or 3 miles from its S.W. end lie three more isles, very low, with breakers pro-
jecting 2 or 3 miles from them; these ought not to be approached, particularly in the
night.
South Island. SOUTH ISLAND, in lat. 5° 40' S., Ion. 122° 30' E., bearing nearly West from the
south end of Bouton, distant about 12 miles, is 5 or 6 miles in extent, of moderate
height, formed of sections or strata of rock, and being on with the south part of
Bouton in coming from the westward, it is not discerned until nearly approached.
There are some small isles adjoining ; two of them lie to the northward of South Island,
fronting the south entrance of Bouton Strait, and are generally called Middle and
North Islands.
Hee:adis.
Bouton Island.
Bouton, South
Point, with
sailing direc-
tions.
East point of
Bouton.
Calansoesoe
Harbour.
HEGADIS, in about lat. 6° 13' S., Ion. 122° 40' E., bearing nearly South from the
south point of Bouton, is an island of middling height, on the south side the channel ;
Greenwood Island lies to the eastward, nearer the southern Token Besseys.
BOUTON ISLAND is generally high, or of middling height, hilly at the south
part, with numerous huts scattered between the rocks near the sea and the summits
of the hills.
Bouton South Point is in lat. 5° 42' S., Ion. 122° 44' E., or 2° 16' East from Middle
Island in Salayer Strait by chronometer. Captain Hey wood, in 1803, and Captain
Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1796, made it exactly in the same longitude by chrono-
meters. This point bears nearly East from Middle Island in Salayer Strait, distant
45 leagues ; and a course steered E. ^ S. will lead a ship in the fair track to the
southward of Cambyna and South Island, at a moderate distance from both, if there
is no oblique current. There are no soundings in this track, all the islands being
steep to.
Bouton East Point, in lat. 5° 15' S., Ion. 123° 15' E.,* or 2° 47' E. from Middle Island
in Salayer Strait by chronometer, is a long, low, level point, projecting into the sea,
having behind it, up the country, a piece of remarkable table-land. The coast between
it and the south end of Bouton forms a considerable bight, and a reef projects from
the S.W. point of this bight, with foul ground stretching farther to the south-westward
along the shore. To the northward of the east point, an extensive and deep bay, about
8 or 9 leagues wide, called Dwaal or Deval Bay by the Dutch, is formed betwixt it
and the N. E. part of the island. The north point of this bay bears nearly N. by W.
from Bouton east point, and a direct course may be steered from point to point with-
out hauling far into the bay.
Calansoesoe Harbour, or Son Bay, is at the northern extreme of Dwaal Bay to the
w estward of its north point. This is a kind of road or harbour, with soundings of 30 to
55 fathoms at the entrance, and to the westward near the shore. The Dutch ship
Hope, bound to the Spice Islands, being late in the season of 1791, took shelter in this
place, where she lay during the South-east Monsoon, and constructed a plan of it.
From this plan, it appears that care is required in entering between the shoals on the
east side, and those fronting the isles that bound the western side of the road, which
seems to be sheltered from the sea by shoals projecting from the point on the east side.
* By Capt. C. R. Drinkwater Bethune, 123° 20' E.
BOUTON STRAIT. 599
Rice, poultry, and other articles of refreshment, may be procured at the village on the
N. E. side of the bay.
This bay was visited by Captain Tarbutt, in the Company's ship Apollo, March
28th, 1813; she anchored in 27 fathoms, with the south point of the bay bearing
S. ^ E., north point of the Inner Bay, S. E., south point of ditto S.W. by S., and made
the lat. 4° 55' S., Ion. 12.3° U'E. by chronometers. A guide was procured from the
Rajah, who carried the launch and cutter to a fresh water river, as the well near the
village was emptied by filling only three casks.
This bay appeared unsafe, having overfalls from 80 to 30, 15, and 5 fathoms, and
not more than 2 or 1^ fathoms upon some banks of coral.
The land contiguous to the sea is level from the eastern point of this bay, to a con-
siderable distance northward, and may be coasted within a moderate distance to the
north-east end of Bouton, situated in lat. 4°23'S., Ion. 123° 4' E. A little inland from North-east end
the north-east point of Bouton there is a small peaked hill, like a sugar-loaf.
of Bouton.
BOUTON STRAIT, formed betwixt the west coast of that island and the opposite Bouton strait.
Island of Pangasani, is now seldom used, the passage round the east side of Bouton
being safer, and generally more expeditious. The passage through the strait was for-
merly much frequented by European ships, although it is only three-quarters of a mile
era mile wide in the narrowest part ; the Cornwallis and some other ships, which have
passed through it not long ago, found no less than 10 or 12 fatlioms water.
The south entrance is formed betwixt North Island and the south end of Pangasani ;
here, no soundings are obtained, and a reef extends a considerable way from North
Island. The coast of Bouton is cultivated and well inhabited ; supplies of poultry,
fruits, and other refreshments, may be procured at the town of Bouton, in lat. 5^27' S., Townoi
Ion. 122° 40^ E., a little inside the south entrance of the strait, upon the shore of Bou- "o"""-
ton. The Lord North, in August, 1782, moored in 9 fathoms, sand, with the stream
anchor to the northward in 17 fathoms, and had the Flagstaff bearing S. by W.i W., the
watering place E. N. E. 3 miles, and the wooding place on Pangasani N.N.W., off
shore about half a mile. Some Dutchmen generally reside here ; but it is prudent to
be prepared against any treachery, for the inhabitants of these islands ought not to be
trusted.
The tides are moderate, and will assist a ship in drifting through the strait in Tides,
light winds, with boats ahead, to keep her in the fair track, which is generally about
mid-strait, or rather nearest the Bouton shore, in some places. Although in a few-
parts the water is very deep, convenient anchorage may often be got in moderate
depths of ooze or mud ; and in some places the bottom is sand and coral. A shoal
projects a little way from the N.W. end of Bouton, which must have a berth in pass-
ing; and when clear of it, the channel leading out of the north entrance of tlie strait
takes an easterly direction betwixt the north end of Bouton and Weywongy Island.
Approaching this entrance from the northward, it is not perceived until near ; and a
remarkable rock, hollow below, with bushes on its summit, lies at the entrance, on the
Bouton side, being connected with that shore at low water. The fishing stakes con-
tiguous to the shore on either side the strait ought to be avoided, as they are placed
in shoal water. The shores at the north part rise on both sides perpendicularly from
the sea.
There is another channel to the westward of Pangasani, betwixt it and the coast of
Celebes ; but having a number of small isles in it, with several shoals, it is thereby
rendered intricate, and never attempted by large vessels.
600 PASSAGE OUTSIDE BOUTON. — TOKEN BESSEYS.
weywongy WEWVONGY, Oil the north side of the northern entrance of Bonton Strait, is a
andWaxway. jjjg.jj j.^j^j of Considerable size ; the body of it is in about lat. 4° 3'S. Waxway, far-
ther northward, fronting the coast of Celebes, is also a considerable island, high in the
centre, with a declivity towards the sea. The centre of this island is in lat. 3° 34' S.,
Ion. 123" 14' E. Close to Celebes coast, from the entrance of Bouton Strait, a great
way northward, there are soundings in many places, where a ship might anchor in case
of necessity, but several shoals are interspersed along this part of the coast. Captain
Drinkwater Bethune, when passing Waxway, in H. M. S. Conway, observed the sea
to be of a remarkable white colour, as if over a shoal chalky bottom ; there were no
soundings, however, with 40 fathoms.
Instructions THE PASSAGE outsido BOUTON is now in general use; and to proceed by it,
outside of*'^'^ you should approach the S. E. point of Bouton within a few miles, if the wind be
Bouton. westerly, and keep the coast aboard to the east point, to prevent being set over towards
the southern Token Besseys Islands, by southerly currents and light airs, which fre-
quently prevail in the offing. Captain Seton, in the Helen, was delayed by faint airs
and southerly currents on the east side of Bouton, from February 23rd to March 6th,
1795. Although he sounded often in different parts, within 1 and 2 miles of the shore,
no ground was got with 100 and 120 fathoms line. Other navigators have found the
eastern coast of Bouton equally steep ; yet it has been reported that there is a shoal
oft' the eastern shore of Bouton, in about lat. 5° 30' S., but it probably has no ex-
istence.
Token TOKEN BESSEYS, or TOUCAMBASO, is a large group of moderately ele-
esseys. vatcd islands, extending nearly N. N.W. and S. S. E., their western sides forming the
eastern boundary of the channel on the outside of Bouton. The north-westernmost
of these islands, called Wangiwangi, may be seen about 7 or 8 leagues from the deck,
and appears to be the largest of them. I made the body of it in lat. 5° 15^' S., Ion.
123° 33' E. by chronometers, corresponding with several other English navigators;*
the nearest part of it bears directly East from the east point of Bouton, about 6 or 6^
i<rues distant, this being the breadth of the channel between them. These islands
• been considered dangerous to approach all round, which is not the case, for the
^rnmost island may be approached within 2 or 3 miles on the north and west
• here being no soundings at this distance, nor any appearance of danger above
1^ miles from the shore. It is inhabited, abounds with coco-nuts, and the rocks or
shoal water project only about a mile oft" shore : the westernmost island appears also
safe to approach on the west side ; but there is a large shoal, dry in some places, near
the S. Western island. The Orpheus frigate grounded on the east side of the N. E.
island, in May, 1790, not farofl^shore ; but it is only in a south-easterly, south-westerly,
or southerly direction from these islands that shoals are known to exist. Most
of them are inhabited, but they are destitute of anchorage, the islands and reefs being
steep to.
Between some of the Token Besseys there are channels, through which ships have
been known to pass with safety in daylight ; but it seems not prudent to run for any
of them, except in a case of necessity. The Supply brig. Lieutenant Ball, from Port
Jackson, bound to Batavia, in June, 1790, passed about 2 leagues northward of St.
Matthew Islands, and soon after saw Token Besseys to the S.W. : when near the
* The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen, in 1805, made it in lat. 5° 17' S., Ion. 123° 33' E. by chrono-
. meters; and Captain A. Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1820, made it in Ion. 123^ 33' 12"E.by chronometers.
TOKEN BESSEYS. 601
latter, steered W. S.W. betwixt the northern islands and others, and passed a sand-
bank at noon, having some bushes on its north end, and a spit stretching 3 or 4 miles
southward, with high breakers on it. The islands were cultivated, and a proa came off
loaded with coco-nuts at 4 p.m. ; soon after a shoal was seen extending from W.N.W.
as far as the eye could reach, in a S. Easterly direction, distant about 6 miles ; there-
fore, hauled to the wind, and lay during the night under the nearest island, called
Combado by the natives. At daylight made sail, steered W. N.W., and ran along
the eastern side of the shoal, keeping about 4 miles off. It was found to be very ex-
tensive, bounded on the eastern side by rugged rocks, and there are no breakers on it
when the sea is smooth. This shoal seems to front the S.W. part of the Token
Besseys, and the north end of it was rounded at 4 p.m. about 2 miles distance; from
thence, the Supply steered for the south end of Bouton, and passed it early in the
following morning.*
Besides the large group of Token Besseys mentioned as above, other detached
islands, which go by the same general name, extend to about lat. G° 18' S., with safe
channels betwixt several of them ; but, on account of some shoals adjacent, they are
seldom approached close by ships. The southernmost of these islands, called Pin-
nunko by the natives, and in the Dutch charts Pirocka, is of considerable size, and
moderately elevated, having a large bay on the S.W. side ; but its shores are steep,
without anchorage. The south end of this island is situated in about lat. 6° 14' S., Ion.
124° r E., by observations taken in the Boddam and Taunton Castle, when passing to
the southward. About 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of it they rounded another
island, supposed Velthoens, making it in lat. 6° 10' S., Ion. 124° 25' E. ; but A'elthoens
Island seems to be situated more easterly, as will be seen by the description of that
island.
The Henry Addington, December 25th, 1796, at 2 p.m., saw a low flat island, about
H miles in length, covered with trees, bearing N. by E. about 10 miles; and from the
mast-head another of the same appearance, bearing W. N.W. Kept away N. E. to go
to leeward, and hauled up as we passed the easternmost island, which at 4 p.m. bore
W. N.^^^ 7 or 8 miles, when we made it in lat. 6° 9' S., Ion. 124° 19' E., and the other
in lat. 6° 18' S., Ion. 124° 12' E. These seem to be the S. Easternmost of the islands
which lie to the southward and eastward of Token Besseys ; they require great cau-
tion in passing, as they are very low, and could not be seen in the night or in thick
weather until close upon them.
VELTHOENS ISLAND, the S. Easternmost of the Token Besseys, is in lat. veithoens
5° 58' S., Ion. 124° 48' E., or 3° 27' West of Amboina by Captain Heywood's chro- '""'
nometers, who passed near the east side of it, February 26'th, 1803, in H.M.S. Dedaig-
neuse. He describes it to be low, covered with trees, about 5 miles in extent, without
any appearance of danaer on that side. Captain Gardner, in the Castlereagli, bound
from Bombay to China, after steering along the north coast of Flores, saw Velthoens
Island at day-break January 1st, 1809. It appeared to extend from about lat. 0°0' to
6° 8' S., and he made the eastern part in Ion. 124° 42' E.f When it bore from W. by N.
• Captain Bristow, commanding a southern whaler, passed also to the westward among the Token Bessej-s.
having fallen to leeward when blowing strong. Captain William Greig, in the Minto, passed from the south-
ward through the group of Token Besseys, leaving several of its low islands on both sides.
1 The Addington passed on the East side of Velthoens Island December 24th, 1796, and made the east end
of it in lilt. 6^ 9' S., Ion. 124 40' E., having come through the Ombay Passage betwixt the east end of that
island and Wetter, in her route towards the Pitt Passage. Velthoens Island is called sometimes Coco, or Koko
Island.
VOL. ir. 4 H
602
PITT PASSAGE.
to W. by S. ^ S., 8 or 9 miles distant, the side fronting the sea had a white chalky
aspect, which, seen in contrast with the bushes or trees that cover this low island,
might have been mistaken for breakers at a greater distance : at this time distant
land was seen to the westward, probably Pirocka Island. On the north and east
sides, Velthoens Island appeared bold to approach, and free from danger ; but a reef
projects a great way from it S. Westward. After rounding this island, the Castle-
reagh weathered the west end of Bouro so far as scarcely to see it.
Captain Williams, in tlie Thames, January 5th, 1797, made Velthoens Island in lat.
6° 8' S., Ion. 124° 48' E. by chronometer; and returning from China in the same year,
August 20th, he made it in lat. 6° 8' S., Ion. 124° 30' E. by chronometer. The true
longitude of this island, therefore, seems to be between 124° 42' and 124° 48' E.*
Variation near it 1° 11' East in 1823.
St. Mattlievv
Islands.
To approach
tlie northern
Token Bes-
seys from the
eastward.
To sail from
Bouton to-
wards Xulla
Bessey.
ST. MATTHEW ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 18' S., the body Ion. 124° 16' E., are two
in number, rather higher than Velthoens Island, and they extend in a N.W. and
S. E. direction about 4 or 5 leagues. The southernmost is largest, separated from the
other by a space about 4 miles, a reef of breakers uniting them, and stretching out
about a league to seaward. They are about 15 or 16 leagues eastward of the northern
Token Besseys ; betwixt which and St. Matthew Islands, and also betwixt the latter
and Velthoens, the passage is thought to be safe, with the assistance of a good look-out
in the daytime.
The Apollo, April 2nd, 1813, during a light breeze, and not having steerage way,
was drifted by the current towards the northern St. Matthew Island, and carried at the
rate of 4 miles an hour, within a quarter of a mile of the reef that projects from its
N.W. point; when this point bore W. N.W. the current set to S. E., and after passing
through a strong eddy and a rippling, it changed and set again to eastward. At noon,
when St. Matthew Island S.E. point bore S. by W., and the N.W. point W. ^ S., observed
lat. 5° 17' S., Ion. 124° 16' E. by chronometer. Observations taken in the Dutch
frigate Maria Reygersbergen, in 1806, made the east extreme of St. Matthew Islands
in lat. 5° 20' S., Ion. 124° 181' E., and their western extreme in lat. 5° 18' S., Ion.
124° 12^' E. by chronometers. Variation 0° 30' E. in 1813.
Ships bound westward in the South-east Monsoon should steer for the northern-
most of the Token Besseys and round it within 3 or 4 miles ; for some ships by steering
wide of these islands have been unable to weather, or beat round the south end of
Bouton against the northerly currents which at times prevail, and have been obliged
to proceed through Bouton Strait.
PITT PASSAGE.
WHEN BOUND eastward through Pitt Passage in the North-west Monsoon,
after reaching the N. E. end of Bouton, steer northward to approach the Island Wey-
wongy, if N.W. winds blow strong, then stretch off for the south end of Xulla Bessey.
This seems necessary in ships which sail indifferently during the month of December
and in the early part of January, because N. N.W. or N.W. winds and southerly cur-
rents prevail at times. The wind and currents in Pitt Passage are, however, fre-
quently variable, by which a ship may proceed almost in any direction ; but in passing
through, it is prudent to preserve the windward side of the channel, if northerly winds
* When bearing from N.W. | W.to N.W. by W. | W., distant 8 or 9 miles, it appeared to the Royal Char-
lotte, in 1797, as two islands, which are called Coco Islands in her journal ; and she made the easternmost part
in lat. 6° 9' S., Ion. 124° 55' E. by lunar observations.
PITT PASSAGE, — XULLA ISLANDS. 603
predominate. Do not lose time working round the N.W. end of Bouro, if you happen
to fall to leeward with northerly winds ; but in such case, pass along the south coast
of Bouro, and proceed round the east end of that island into Pitt Passage. During
the whole of the North-west JNIonsoon, ships from Amboina are enabled to proceed to
the northward, by keeping close in with the east end of Bouro, where they get variable
breezes and land squalls. Here, they seldom experience much current, and some-
times a drain in their favour ; but close over to Manipa, and betwixt it and Ceram,
the current frequently sets strong to the S. Eastward in this season.
THE XULLA LSLANDS are four in number, and of considerable magnitude. Xuiia islands.
Xulla Bessey, the southernmost, is of considerable height, may be seen 12 or 13 leagues, xuiia Bessey.
and has a level aspect when viewed far off. Its S. E. point is in about lat. 2° 28' S.,
and I made it in Ion. 125° 58' E. by chronometer, which is exactly the mean of six
ships' chronometers, nearly agreeing with each other. From thence it extends about
11 leagues N. by W. ^ W., the N. E. point being in lat. 1° 58' S., the N.W. point
nearly on the same parallel, and in Ion. 125° 48' E. This island is cultivated and
well inhabited, abounding with wax and honey, and seems to be the only one of these
islands w here a ship might procure refreshments ; there is a village near the S. E.
point where the Dutch have a fort. The northern part of the island is surrounded
by a coral reef, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, leaving a channel about 3 or 4 miles
wide betwixt it and Xulla Mangola, with anchorage from 30 to 35 fathoms near the
shore of the latter, which is bold to approach. This channel extends nearly East and channel nortii-
We.st, with currents running through it about 3 and 4 miles an hour, which shift at "ardofit.
times, and form a kind of tides. A ship coming from the eastward, and intending to
pass through, should keep the Mangola shore aboard, until near the small island
situated to the westward of the passage, then she may haul to the southward.
The other three islands form a chain, extending JEast and West about 36 leagues,
and are high bold islands, thinly inhabited. Xulla Mangola, the middle one, is high
in most places, particularly at the N.W. part the land is high and rugged ; Xulla
Talyabo, the western island, is also high. It has been observed, in the directions for
the Return Passage from China on the west side of the Philippine Islands, at the
article Molucca Passage, that there seems to be no safe passage betwixt the western-
most island, Xulla Talyabo, and the middle one, Xulla Mangola.
Lissamatula, the easternmost and smallest of the Xulla Islands, is separated from Lissamatuia.
the east end of Xulla Mangola by a narrow gut ; it is moderately high and level, having
along its north and east sides several white clifls, which are conspicuous at a consider-
able^listance. The S. E. point of this island is in lat. 1° 46' S., Ion. 126° 32' E., or
1° 43' West from Amboina by chronometer ; and oft' this point lies an islet, which
forms like a saddle in coming from the northward.
GREYHOUND STRAIT, through which Captain Elphinstone passed in the Greyhounrt
Greyhound frigate, is the passage between tlie west end of the westernmost Xulla "^"
Island and Hammond Island. The coast forming the west end of Xulla Talyabo,
stretches nearly North and South, having in lat. 1° 58' S. a Haycock Island close to
its S.W. point, from which Skelton Island bears North 13 miles, and lies to the N.W.
part of Xulla Talyabo, with several isles stretching from it near the Xulla shore to
N. E. and eastward along the north coast of the latter, fronted by a large and danger-
ous shoal in lat. 1° 34' S.
Middle Island, distant about 2i or 3 leagues West from Skelton Island, is low,
4 H 2^
G04 PITT PASSAGE. — BOURO ISLAND.
swampy, covered with trees, surrounded by shoal water to the distance of three-
quarters of a mile, and betwixt these is the eastern channel throuji;h Greyhound Strait,
Tiie western channel is formed to the westward of Middle Island, bounded to the
westward and S. Westward by Albion Island, distant about 3 or 3^ leagues from the
former, having other islands to the westward and southward.
The Albion, Captain Skelton, passed northward through these straits November
22nd, 1812, having previously experienced a strong current running to the westward
between Timor and Ombay, in October and November; she went through the Strait
of Flores, then to the eastward of Token Besseys, and afterwards through the eastern
channel of Greyhound Strait, and found it a safe and clear passage, leading to the
Pacific Ocean.
In returning from N. Eastward, she passed through the western channel in Novem-
ber, 1813, and on the 20th anchored in 19 fathoms, coarse sand, about 1^ miles off
the S.W. side of Middle Island, and cut a supply of firewood. When Middle Island
bore S. E. by E. 9 miles, and Albion Island S. by W. 6 miles, she had 100 fatiioms
water; from thence steering S. E. for the former island, the depth decreased regularly
till she anchored near it in 19 fathoms. From hence, she steered S. E. by S. towards
the Haycock, in soundings of 12 to 20 fathoms, to the distance of 7 miles from Middle
Island, then deepened to 50 fathoms in a run of 4 miles farther; at noon, observed
lat. 1° 58' S., Haycock bearing East 5 miles, no bottom. In November, land and sea
breezes were experienced, with regular tides running North and South about 3 or
3| miles per hour : all the islands, except the Haycock, are mostly low and woody.
The same ship passed southward through the eastern channel, with a strong breeze
and pleasant weather, February 4th, 1814; and she carried soundings of 20 to
35 fathoms between Middle Island and Skelton Island, keeping about 2 miles from the
latter, in the eastern side of the channel, deepening as she approached the Haycock.
Captain Drinkwater Bethune, of H.M.S. Conway, passed through the Greyhound
Strait on his passage from Canton to Batavia in 1841, and remarks, " There appeared
to be some shoal spots in the neighbourhood, and the two islands marked on the chart
to the southward of the strait do not exist."
From the Haycock, Middle Island bears N.W. by N., distant 15 miles, and Albion
Island bears from it JN. W. by W. ^ W. about 18 miles. The Haycock and Skelton
Islands, which form the eastern limits of these straits, lie on the same meridian, in Ion.
124° 36' E. by the Albion's journal.
North coast of BOURO is a high island, and has a semicircular mountain on the N.W. part, re-
Bouro. sembling a dome, which may be seen 25 or 30 leagues off in clear weather. The
N.W. end of the island is in lat. 3° 6' S., Ion. 125° 57' E., or 5° 28' E. from Middle
Island in Salayer Strait by our chronometers in the Anna, corresponding with the
mean of seven other ships' chronometers ; it bears S. 2° W. from the S. E. point of
Xulla Bessey, distant about 13 leagues.
The north coast of Bouro is bold and safe to approach, there being no soundings
except very near the shore at the N.W. part, where a spit is said to project a little
way: the northern extremity of the island is in lat. 3° 2' S. ; and the N.E. point,
which forms the north side the entrance of Cajeli Bay, is in lat. 3° 15' S., Ion. 127° 5' E.,
by mean of six ships' chronometers.
Gomona. GOMONA, lu lat. 1° 50' S., Ion. 127' 38 E., or 37 miles West of Amboina Flagstaff
by chronometer, bearing from the S. E. point of Xulla Bessey E. by N. ^^ N., distant
GILLOLO PASSAGE. 005
3o leagues, is a small island lying near the south coast of Oby Major, of middling
heiglit, and sloping from the centre towards each end. These islands bound the north
side of Pitt Passage in this part, and Ceram the south side. The coasts of Oby Oby.Majoiand
Major and Ceram, are mostly high, and safe to approach, but the 8. E. end of the ^^"'"'
former is low land. All through Pitt Passage the land, being generally high, may be
seen on each side when the weather is clear.
HAVING entered PITT PASSAGE, betwixt the south point of Xulla Bessey and To sail tiuouaii
Bouro, steer E. bv N. ^ N. to E. N. E., which will carry you directly tlirough it to the ^1",^'??^%
/• TT ci ■ •/• 1 • 11 i"^ • 1 into the Pacific
entrance oi Pitt Strait, it there is no lateral current; observing, not to borrow towards Ocean,
the islands on the northern side, if the wind incline from that direction, with a
southerly current prevailing.
When the east end of Oby Major is approached, continue to steer to the eastward,
if the route by Dampier Strait is to be chosen for entering into the Pacific Ocean ; but
many persons prefer the Gillolo Passage, for the following reasons : it is spacious, the
islands on each side are bold to approach, and clear of hidden danger, there is good room
for working by night or by day, and the tides or currents in it are seldom strong : besides,
ships which go out by tliis passage run no risk of getting on the Buccleugh Shoal, or
of being embarrassed with the coast of New Guinea. Other navigators, however, prefer
the passage through Dampier Strait, because they sometimes get variable and favour-
able breezes to run them speedily out clear of Point Pigot ; whilst ships proceeding-
through the Gillolo Passage are liable to be retarded in beating out against northerly
or N. E. winds, and a heavy swell frequently rolling in from the ocean. And although
the tides in Dampier Strait are very strong, and there are several dangers in it, steep to, |
there is anchorage in the narrow part; and if ships round l*oint Pigot j)retty close, j
they will run little risk of getting embarrassed with the coast of New Guinea. j
The Gillolo Passage seems preferable early in the season, but in January and
February, wiien N. E. winds approach the equator, the route through Dampier Strait
should probably be followed by ships which sail indiflerently. In March, the Gillolo
Passage may be adopted, for the N, E. winds then begin to abate.
The Castlereagh left Bombay in November, 1808, went through Allass Strait along
the north coast of Flores, round the west end of Bouro, then through Pitt Passage and
Dampier Strait, and was only seventy days from Bombay to China. From Dampier
Strait she carried strong westerly winds to the Pellew Islands, whilst other ships,
which vyent out by the Gillolo Passage about tlie same time, experienced light baffling \
winds, and were nearly five weeks accomplishing what tlie Castlereagh did in a ffw
days, which seems to shew that the latter passage is sometimes tedious.
GILLOLO PASSAGE.
THE GILLOLO PASSAGE, formed betwixt the Islands Gillolo and Waygiou, ciiioio
is separated into two branches, by Geby Island stretching across nearly in the centre, ^"^^"r^-
The channel between it and Gillolo is generally known by the name of (iillohi Pas-
sage. That to the eastward of Geby, betwixt it and Waygiou, is sometimes calleil
Bougainville Passage, this circumnavigator liaving sailed through it in 1772; the Duke
and Duchess |)rivateers had previously gone through it in 1710. Of late years several
English ships have passed I>etween Geby and Waygiou ;* l)ut the small islands with
• Also several of the French surveying frigates.
606 GILLOLO PASSAGE.
some rocky islets above water, which are scattered over this channel, make the western
or Gillolo Passage preferable.
The channels between the islands leading from Pitt Passage into the Gillolo Passage
are all thought to be safe. That betwixt Pulo Gasses and Kekik being wide, is
generally preferred in the North-west Monsoon ; for the other wide channel betwixt
Pnlo Pisang and the Boo Islands is then too far to leeward, but it may be adopted by
ships coming from northward during the South-east Monsoon.
Lookisong. LOOKISONG, or LANDSCAPE ISLAND, so named by the Malays from its
pleasant aspect, extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W. about 3 leagues, fronting and
near to the east end of Oby Major, and it is sometimes called Great Pulo Gasses. It
is of moderate height, well wooded, stretching with a remarkably even slope to the low
point that forms its northern extremity ; the south end is in about lat. 1° 45' S., Ion.
128 °10' E. The channel betwixt this island and Oby Major being very contracted, sub-
ject to calms or baffling winds from the adjoining high land, is not used by ships.
There is a small island, called Long Island, contiguous to the north end of Lookisong.
Pulo Gasses. PULO GASSES, distant about 7 or 8 miles eastward of Lookisong, and nearly of
the same height, is a flat table-land, for about three-fourths of its extent, sloping down
at each end, with a spit of rocks stretching from the S. E. end about a cable's length.
The south point is in lat. 1° 41' S., Ion. 128° 20' E., or 5 miles East of Amboina by
chronometers : the island has a sandy beach, but no soundings are got at 1 or 2 miles
distance, and 40 fathoms were found at the south end, about a ship's length from the
shore.
The Moffatt, December 14th, 1824, had soundings of 42 fathoms, coral rock, about
half a mile off, with the north end of Pulo Gasses bearing N. N. E. ^ E., the S. E. end
E. by S. I S., south end of Lookisong W. by S. ^ S., north end of Long Island
N.W.by W. Stood N. N.W. about a quarter of a mile, then no ground at 50 fathoms.
The Minstrel, November 15th, 1823, had 85 fathoms, grey sand and shells, about
2 or 2^ miles off Pulo Gasses, its north point bearing N. 54° E., south point
N. 79° E., north point of Lookisong N. 55° VV., south point S. 68° W., and Long
Island N. 56° W.
Its adjoining The chauncl near to this island and Lookisong, called by some persons Gasses
strait. Strait, and formed between Pulo Gasses and Lookisong, is safe, and should be
adopted with a westerly wind ; but the channel eastward of Pulo Gasses, being wider,
seems preferable with a working wind in the night.
Kekik; islands KEKIK, iu lat. 1° 33' S., Ion. 128° 37^' E., bearing N. E. byE.f E., Q\ leagues
near it. f,.Qiyj p^jg Gasscs, is a high island. Lawn, in lat. 1° 34' S., distant about 2 leagues
eastward of Kekik, is also a high island, with an islet off each side of it, and another
in the form of a button betwixt it and Kekik.
Pulo Pisang. PULO PISANG, the highest of these small islands, forms in two hills resembling
each other, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues; it is situated in lat. 1° 23' S., Ion.
128° 53' E., or 2° 25' West from Point Pigot, measured by our chronometers, and Cap-
tain lieywood made it 37 miles East of Amboina by chronometer.
Boo Islands, THE BOO ISLANDS, in lat. 1° 12' S., lou. 129° 1 8' E., distant about 9 or 10 leagues
E. N. E. of Pulo Pisang, consist of a group of small low islands, more than 10 or 12
GILLOLO PASSAGE. 607
in number ; and they bear West from the west end of Pulo Popa, distant 5 or o^
leagues, this being the Avidth of a safe channel formed between them, leading to
Dampier Strait, also into the Gillolo Passage. These islands are inhabited, and pro-
duce coco-nuts ; dried fish and a few goats may also be procured, according to the
description of Captain Forrest, who touched here in 1775; he anchored in 15 fathoms,
close to a small sandy island, having upon it some coco-nut trees.
To enter the Gillolo Passage by the channel betwixt Pulo Gasses and Kekik, haul Directions for
close round the south end of Pulo Gasses, to prevent being carried past the channel GinoioVa''s^-
by the current, which frequently sets to the eastward. After rounding Pulo Gasses, sage.
the highest of the group of Dammer Islands, that lie off the south end of Gillolo, will
begin to appear from the deck in the form of a saddle, the southernmost of which, in
about lat. 1° 11' S., bears nearly N. N. E. from the north end of Lookisong, distant
8^ or 9 leagues ; the largest of them is generally called Pulo Dammer.
BLACK ROCKS, or FAIRWAY LEDGE,* in lat. l°8J'S.,lon. 128° 30' E., Biack iiocks.
bearing about E. N. E., distant G miles from the southernmost of the Dammer Islands, j'edge^"^''
is a low ridge of rocks extending E. N. E. and W. S. W. about 2 miles,'part of which,
near the eastern extreme, being about the height of a small ship's hull above water,
and from thence it extends in a low ridge 2 miles W. S. W., with a continuation of
breakers some distance farther towards the Dammer Islands. This danger was not
known to English navigators until explored by Captain Welstead, of the General
Harris, on his passage from Bombay to China, in 1818; he passed between Pulo
Gasses and Lookisong, January 1,3th, and found this channel very safe. Lookisong
was approached close at the south part, and was observed to be nearly close to the
east end of Oby Major, apparently admitting no safe passage for ships between
them. After passing through Gasses Strait, in steering N. N. Eastward for tlie
Gillolo Passage, the Fairway Ledge was discovered, which is much in the way of
ships steering towards the south point of Gillolo, particularly if they borrow near tlie
Dammer Islands on account of westerly winds. Ships, therefore, passing here in the
night, should keep well to the eastward when near the latitude of the south end of
Gillolo, giving a wide berth to the Dammer Islands, and the Fairway Ledge, for there
are no soundings to denote the proximity of this dangerous ledge.
THE WEEDA ISLANDS are low, covered with wood, and form two compact woeda islands,
groups, the southernmost bearing N. ^ W. from Kekik, and N. N. E. from tlie south
point of Gillolo, and in about lat. 0° 40' S. The centre of this group lies N. N. East-
ward of the south point of Gillolo, distant 3 or 4 leagues, and it seems safe to approach,
there being no ground with 100 fathoms line, within 2 miles of it on the east side.
The other group lies about 2^ or 3 leagues W. N. Westward of the former, in the bight
to the N. W. of Gillolo South Point.
GILLOLO SOUTH POIiNT, called COCO-NUT POINT, in lat. 0° 48' S., Ion. giuoio s«uii.
128° 28' E., has a knob on it, but the land near it is rather low and uneven, and the ^°'"'
coast between it and Point Tabo, forming a deep semicircular bay, is not seen in steer-
ing a direct course for the latter. The small island of Ordel is situated close to the
southern part of Coco-nut Point, in the entrance of the strait formed between it and
the Dammer Islands, which is too narrow for ships.
* This danger appears to have been seen by the French sliips Resolution and La Subtile, in 1786, as it is
marked on a M.S. chart of their track between Oby Major and the Dammer Islands.
G08
GILLOLO PASSAGE.
Point Tabo.
Pulo Moar.
Eastern coast
of Gillolo.
Ossa;
islands and
coast adjacent.
Ayei Watchey.
Maba Villapre
and adjacent
coast.
Shanpee
Islands.
Tabo, Jabo, or Patani Point, the eastern extremity of Gillolo, has a gradual slope,
ending- in a bluff to seaward ; and when bearing N. W. by N., some white cliffs are
seen near it. The land hereabout is high, and over the point rises a hill like a quoin,
with its thick end to the westward. Pulo Moar is low, flat, and woody, stretching
out 1 or 1^ miles from Point Tabo, connected with it by rocks and breakers ; close
to the east end of Pulo Moar there is a small islet, in lat. 0° 9' N., Ion. 128° 58' E.
by chronometers, which forms the western boundary of the passage between it and
Geby.
The eastern coast of Gillolo is well inhabited in many places, with small villages
fronting the sea adjacent to Point Tabo, and at other parts of the coast. Between the
extensive peninsula that forms Point Tabo and the other peninsula that stretches
north-eastward, and forms the N. E. extremity of Gillolo, the Great Bay of Ossa is
situated ; this bay has in it several islands and shoals, with moderate depths and
regular soundings amongst and inside of them.
Ossa Village, in lat. 0° 45' N., Ion. 128° 22' E. by chronometer, situated on the
south side of the bay, abounds with nutmegs, and has a fine watering place ; here,
ships may procure water and refreshments, and plenty of timber for spars on Pulo
Orr, an island about 3 miles N. N. E. of the village. The anchorage in the road is
in 12 to 14 fathoms, good holding ground, betwixt the island and the village of Ossa.
About 2 leagues nearly East from Pulo Orr lies Pulo Otto, on either side of which
there is a channel, from 2 to 3 miles wide, leading from the road to the eastward : the
depths are from 20 to 30 fathoms betwixt Pulo Otto and some shoals to the north-
westward, which bound the channel on that side, and from 17 to 20 fathoms in the
south channel, betwixt it and Pulo England. This is a considerable island, unin-
habited, and separated from Gillolo by a narrow passage, having good anchorage in
it of 8 or 9 fathoms, and abounding with fish. These islands have reefs projecting
from them, and there are several other islands and slioals, 2 or 3 leagues northward
and north-westward from Pulo Orr ; one of them, a sandy isle, 8 or 9 feet above water,
is about 3 or 4 miles N. by W. from it. About 2 miles West from Ossa Village lies
Ayer Watchey River and Village, where fresh water may be got about a mile up the
river. Golonasy Village, about 4 miles to the north-westward of the latter, was des-
troyed by the Dutch, January 25th, 1808.
Maba Village, in about lat. 0° 53' N., distant 6 leagues W^ N. Westward of Ossa,
lies near the head of the bay, where there is a river navigable by boats, and good fresh
water. Maba Island, near the shore, northward of the river, has a few houses on it,
and anchorage about 1^ or 2 miles to the eastward, in 10 to 12 fathoms water. Betwixt
this place and Ossa, and from thence to Pulo Otto, tolerably regular soundings extend
along the coast, to the distance of 5 or (i miles off shore ; but a good look-out is re-
quisite, to avoid the shoals contiguous to the coast, and otiiers that are scattered in the
offing.
A ship proceeding to any of these places for water or refreshments ought to keep a
boat sounding ahead. Captain William Greig visited Ossa and the adjacent parts,
in the Minto, from Bengal, and constructed a plan of the south side of the bay ; from
his statement this description is taken.
SHANPEE ISLANDS, bearing nearly North from Point Tabo, consist of a group,
three or four in number, extending 3 or 4 leagues North and South, the body of them
being in about lat. 0° 30' N. They are mostly level, of considerable size, with a small
elevation between the cential part and the northernmost island.
GILLOLO PASSAGE. 609
THE CATHERINE ISLANDS,* in hit. 0° 39' N., Ion. 129° WE. by chrononie- Catherine
ters, bearing N. N.E. i E. from Pulo Moar, distant 11 leagues, are three small low ^''^"'''■
islands near each other, forming the western boundary of the nortii entrance of the
Gillolo Passage. The northernmost resembles a rabbit, the central one is in the form
of a sugar-loaf, and the southernmost and largest island is of flat appearance. They
are distant G or 6^ leagues to the E. N. E. of the Shanpee Islands, and have sound-
ings near some of them. There is a rocky islet N. Westward of the Catherine Islands,
in lat. 0° 45' N., Ion. 129° 8' E., seen in January, 1808, by the Ardassier; and
another round islet or rock, apparently half or three-quarters of a mile in circuit. Rocky islet.
having some small shrubs on it in different places, lies about 10 miles S. W. l)y W.
from the Catherine Islands.
THE CANTON PACKET SHOAL, discovered by Captain King, in the Ameri- canto,, Packet
can ship Canton Packet, returning from China in 1818, is thought to be dangerous; **''°*'-
it is thus described by him.
July 20lh, at 6 p.m., saw the Catherine Islands bearing S. E. by S. 3 or 4 leagues,
and the wind being far to the eastward, we stood to the westward of these islands. At
4 A.M. tacked to N. E., and at daylight the east point of Gillolo bore S. by W., Shanpee
Islands S. W. 9 or 10 miles, and Catherine Islands N. E. by E. At 8^ a.i\i. dis-
covered breakers on our lee quarter, with discoloured water half or three-quarters of
a mile to the eastward ; tacked to southward, but finding we could not clear the shoal,
as the current set strong to the northward, tacked again to N. Eastward. Saw the
bottom, apparently white sand and black rocks, and had soundings from 9 to 14
fathoms : the place where the sea broke appeared to be a rock near the surface, with
only from 4 to feet water on it, when we apjjroached it within ]| miles. When we
had the above soundings on the shoal, the S. E. point of Gillolo bore S. by W.,
Catherine Islands E. N. E., and the body of Shanpee Islands S. W. This shoal
appears to lie nearly in mid -channel between Shanpee and Catherine Islands, and in
lat. 0° 35' N., Ion. 128° 55' E. On the following noon we observed in lat. 0° 40' N.,
Ion. 129° 5' E.,theS. E. point of Gillolo bearing S. S. W., Catherine Islands E. ^ N.,
and the small round islet that lies about 10 miles S. W. by AV, of Catherine Islands
bore S. | W.
AURORA BANK, described as follows by Captain George Vint, of the ship Aurora Bank.
Aurora, was discovered by him December 25th, 1816. At 8 a.m., steering eastward
with a light northerly air, saw rocks alongside; immediately tacked, and had 8 fathoms
water in stays ; steered N.W., deepening gradually to 45 fathoms, then 120 fathoms
no ground. When upon the bank, observations taken placed it in lat. 0° 40' N., Ion.
129° 30' E., and the northernmost of Catherine Islands was seen from tlie top-mast
head bearing W. ^ S., distant about 5 or (i leagues. This bank must be of small ex-
tent, as the Wexford and Elphinstone were about 1 and 1 \ miles westward of the
Aurora when she was upon it, and neither of the former ships had soundings.
Although 8 fathoms was the least water found on this bank by the Aurora, yet a
whaler which she fell in with a few days afterwards staled, that on some |)arts of it
there are only 5 feet water ; which, if correct, must render the Gillolo Passage not so
safe in squally weather as hitherto supposed.
* Captain Pope, in the Minerva, got close to these islands at niiilniglit, Januarj' 29th, 1S08, anil named them
Catherine Islands. Captain Tate, in the Cumbrian, got also close to them in the night of August '26th, 1809,
returning from China, and thought them a new discovery.
VOL. II. 4 I
610
GILLOLO PASSAGE.
When the northernmost Catherine Island bore N. by W., distant 3 miles, at 6 p. m.,
had "-ronnd 58 fathoms, and slioaled regularly to 20 fathoms when not more than a
mile from it; having been drifted in a calm towards the central small island, she
anchored at 9 p.m. in 20 fathoms, on a bottom of sand and shells, and found the
current or tide running three miles per hour to the S. W., and afterwards it set West
about l^ miles per hour.
Geby GEBY, extending about 6f leagues N. W. and S. E., is narrow and hilly, resem-
bling several islands when viewed from the westward at 7 leagues distance ; the north-
ern part is rather low, but the south end is high, and terminates in a bluff point. The
N. W. end of the island is in lat. 0° 2' N., Ion. 129° 19' E. by mean of several ships'
chronometers, nearly agreeing; but the True Briton's and Lieutenant M'Cluer's ob-
servations place that end of the island exactly on the equator ;* it bears from Pulo
Moai- nearly E. by S. | S., distant 7 leagues, this being the narrovA'est part of the
Gillolo Passage, about 6 or 6J leagues wide.
Fow Island
and the har-
bour.
Anchoring
bay and vil
FOW, or FAUX ISLAND, in about lat. 0° 6' S., has a peaked hill on its south
part, and is separated from the western shore of Geby by a narrow channel, about
a quarter of a mile wide, which forms a safe harbour, with depths from 10 to 15
fathoms. There is a passage into it, on either side of Fow Island, by keeping close
to the latter ; for a shoal lies nearly mid-way betwixt it and the Geby shore, in the
west entrance, with good depths around. In the south entrance there are also two
small shoals, close to each other, with 7 fathoms water between them, 7 or 8 fathoms
inside, and from 20 to 10 fathoms betwixt them and the east side of Fow Island, which
is the widest and best channel.
In the small bay eastward of these shoals there is an anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms
near the shore of Geby ; Ketchepee, the principal village, being about 2 miles distant,
on the east side the island, with other villages near it to the southward. Soundings
are not obtained until well in with the shore.
The William Money, December 25th, 18:3.3, anchored with the stream in 24 fathoms,
south extremity of Fow N. W. by W., and the S. E. extreme of Geby S. E. ; here
she received 20 butts of water, and sailed on the following day.
On the N. E. side of Fow Island, a narrow gut, fronting Geby Harbour, stretches
into the island close to the peaked hill, and forms an excellent port or basin, there
being 4 and 5 fathoms water in the narrow entrance, and from 10 to 16 fathoms inside.
The fresh water rivulet is upon the Geby shore, opposite the north point of Fow
Island ; and the rise and fall of tide is five feet on the springs. The island abounds
Refreshments, with turtle and fish of various kinds ; the natives were hospitable to Lieutenant
M'Cluer, who touched here in 1794, and procured 1,000 nutmeg plants ; they prefer
white cloth to other articles, and speak the Malay and Tidore languages. Monsieur
Bougainville, in 1772, also stopped at this place for refreshments, and surveyed the
Isles adjacent, port. The N. E. sidc of Geby is steep to, without anchorage ; and the Isles Jyoi and
Outah, about a league northward of the east point, are small and low.
Basin.
Gagy, and
other islands.
GAGY, in about lat. 0° 25' S., bearing nearly S. E. by E. from the S. E. end of
Geby, distant or 7 leagues, is an island of considerable extent, and moderately
elevated, formed of uneven hummocks, having some small islets southward of it.
The French surveying ships place it in lat. 0" 1' N., Ion. 129° 17' E.
GILLOLO PASSAGE. 611
called Doif, and a large group, called Batangpally Islands, to tiie eastward, fronting the
S.W. end of Waygiou. Between these and Gagy there is a passage, and the channel
betwixt Gagy and Geby is very safe, having an islet in it near the south end of the
latter. This channel is sometimes adopted by ships proceeding outward ; and it may
probably be chosen to advantage, by ships coming in towards Pitt Passage during the
South-east Monsoon, being more to windward than the channel betwixt the west end
of Geby and Gillolo.
SYAING, in lat. 0° 20' N., Ion. 129° M' E.,* by chronometer, bearing from the north- syang.
west end of Geby about N. E. by E. ^ E., distant 13 leagues, is a low. Hat island, about
4 miles in extent, having soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, sand and rocks, within 2 or
3 miles of its western side; farther in there are 6 or 7 fathoms, with fresh water at a
rocky point, near the north-western extremity of the island, from whence a reef pro-
jects about three-quarters of a mile. ^- \*^^ 'j^ '^\-V^ -^^^
EYE ISLAND, in lat. 0° 23' N., Ion. 129° 53' E., and contiguous to the north end Eye island.
of Syang, is small and low, covered w ith trees, with soundings near it. "^I'his is the
outermost island, bounding the eastern side of the north entrance of the Gillolo Pas-
sage; it bears E. 21° S., distant 15 leagues from the Catherine Islands, which bound
it to the westward.
The Streatham, January 12th, 1820, in passing Eye Island, saw breakers about
H miles off the N.W. point. Captain White, of the Sherburne, in passing near the
north end of the island, remarks in his journal, that a reef projects about three-cpiarters
of a mile from its northern extremity.
WYAJNG, distant about 4 leagues to the south-eastward from Syang, is the north- wyang.an.i
ernmost of a range of islands, stretching from it nearly to the N.W. end of Waygiou, f^'jJ*""'
of which Een, two in number, are the easternmost. Ruib, the largest and iiighest, in
lat. 0° 2' S., lies farthest to the southward towards Gagy, having Balabalak, a rocky
islet, about a league to the westward, and many other small isles and rocks nearly all
around, which contract the channel between Ruib and the N.W. part of Waygiou,
called the French Passage ; this has been navigated by the French exploring ships,
and is about a league wide, but Ruib is 2 leagues distant from the N.W. end of that
island.
Some of these islands are of considerable height; one of them has a table-land on it. Channels.
and another of the westernmost of them is formed of several hummocks. The cliannels
among them are considered safe, but are rather contracted between some of the islands ;
if the wide channel betwixt Geby and Syang is not adopted by ships passing to the
eastward of the former island, they may proceed betwixt Syang and Wyang, which is
the widest of the other channels. The French corvette Urauie, in passing between
Ruib and the Wyang groups, December 13th, 1818, got upon a coral bank, with
(5 fathoms on it, about .5 miles N.W. by N. from the north end of Ruib, and 3 miles
South from the central Wyang Island.
ORMSBEE SHOAL, discovered by the American ship Asia, Captain J. H. ormsbe.
Ormsbee, is thus described in her journal :— " August (Uh, 1818, at noon, observed in si'"»'
* Captain White, in 1824., made this island in lat. 0^ 24' N., Ion. 129^ 56' E., or 23' 3' W. from Cape St.
George, New Ireland, by chronometers. The French corvette Coquille, Mens. Dupcrry, in September, 1823,
made it in lat. 0° 20' N.,'lon. 129° 32' E.
4 1 2
G12 GILLOLO PASSAGE. — WAYGIOU ISLANDS.
lat. 0° 48' N., Ion. 130° 8' E. by chronometer. At U p.m., Ion. 130° If E., by obser-
vation of sun and moon, steering southerly with moderate breezes at S.W. by W, to
W. S.W., was ahirmed at 2^ p.m. by the bottom been seen alongside ; tacked imme-
diately, and had 15 fathoms coral, then stood North and N. by W. in soundings of
15 to 20 fathoms, coral, till 4 p.m., at which time had 16 fathoms, next cast no ground
150 fathoms. Nameless Island, of Laurie and Whittle's chart, bearing S. by E. |^ E;
Wyang, an island full of hummocks, S.^ li. ; and Syang, apparently a low, iiat island,
visible from the mizen-top. Although 15 fathoms was the least water we got on the
bank, yet at a small distance from the ship the water appeared shoaler, but no breakers
were visible, the sea being smooth. The current was setting to the northward about a
mile per hour, by allowing for which, the north edge of the shoal is in lat. 0° 40' N.,
and that part where we first had soundings in lat. 0° 42' N., Ion. 130° 4' E. by chrono-
meter, and 130° 2' E. by observation of the sun and moon."
Directions for HAVING ENTERED THE GILLOLO PASSAGE, by Gasses Strait, or by
the'ciiioio""" the channel on the east side of Pulo Gasses, steer in the first case about N.N. E. A E.,
Passage, and and in the latter about N. by E., to pass through the channel between Point Tabo and
thence into the Qg|^y gg careful in the night to give a berth to the Fairway Ledge, and to the
Weeda Islands, but it is advisable to borrow on the west side of the passage when the
winds are light, because the current sometimes sets north-eastward or eastward.
If the wind hang at N, N.W. so as to occasion delay in working to the westward of
Geby, pass to leeward betwixt it and Gagy, then out into the ocean through any of the
channels contiguous to Syang. But the western channel near Gillolo, and between the
Catherine Islands and Syang, ought to be pursued if circumstances admit, in order to
weather the Yowl and Asia Islands. This is rendered necessary on account of
northerly winds generally prevailing when clear of the Gillolo Passage, with a south-
erly swell, and a current of from 12 to 20 miles daily setting south-eastward.
If any difficulty is experienced in passing to the westward of the Asia Islands, the
channel betwixt them and the Yowl Islands may be followed, it being about 6^ leagues
wide and safe ; or, in case of necessity, pass to the southward of the latter islands, be-
twixt them and the north coast of Waygiou.
When clear of the Gillolo Passage, endeavour to get into lat. 1° 30' N. to 2° N. as
soon as possible, which is considered the best track for getting to the eastward : a con-
stant south-easterly or southerly current may be expected, while running to the east-
ward in these parallels, which requires attention to keep up the northing; but lat.
3° N. should not be exceeded, for farther northward the limit of the North-east Mon-
soon will be approached, where tlie north-westerly or northerly breezes often veer to
the north-eastward.
The south-easterly current will probably change into an easterly one, and set to the
northward of East, as the latitude is increased ; about the parallel of the Pellew
Islands, it may be expected to cease ; and when the North-east Monsoon begins to
blow steady, a westerly current will be experienced. In the early part of the season
it may be prudent to pass to the eastward of the Pellew Islands; but late in January,
February, and March, it will be sufficient to pass near them to the westward.
Waygiou. WAYGIOU, called QUARIDO by the inhabitants, is mostly high uneven land;
the north coast may be approached in most places, although several of the points and of
the isles near the shore have reefs projecting from them, and a rocky shoal stretches a
considerable way from the western part of the island. There are several harbours on
GILLOLO PASSAGE. — WAYGIOU ISLANDS. 613
the north coast, well sheltered, where fresh water may be got, and although little
known to British navigators, they have been visited and surveyed by French ships at
different times, during their voyages of discovery and circumnavigation.
Piapis, the westernmost* of these harbours, in lat. 0° 5' S., is about 2 miles East of Piapis Har-
Cape Forrest, the N.VV. point of Waygiou, w hich headland is in lat. 0° 5' S., Ion. ^°"''
130° 12' E. Rocks, on which the sea generally breaks, project a fjuarter of a mile
from the west point of the entrance of the harbour, in a \V. N.W. direction; these
are avoided by steering in about S. E., and keeping nearest to the west point, off which
stands a haycock-shaped rock, about 15 feet high, with 10 fathoms, mud, close to.
The entrance of this harbour is rather more than a quarter of a mile wide, liavingSO
and 20 fathoms water in it, decreasing towards the shores inside, where it separates
into two branches. A ship may haul round the Haycock Rock, and anchor to the
south-westward of it in 15 or 20 fathoms, mud, and fresh water may be got at a pool on
the island inside, which has a hill on it. There are rocks betwixt this island and the
western shore, with a passage of 8 fathoms close to the island, and 5 fathoms close to
the shore, in a cove at the S.W. side, where a ship might be careened. At the bottom
of the eastern branch of the harbour there is good tindjer for masts, and a small brook
of water near two peaked hills ; and there is a pool of fresh water on tlie small but water.
high i.sland Sipsipa, which forms the east point of the harbour's entrance. Nearly
mid-way betwixt this place and Ofl'ak Harbour there is a small island, from its ap-
peaiance called Shoe Island, near the shore of Waygiou, with several other isles
adjacent to Arago Bay ; the entrance of this bay is about 4 leagues East of Piapis
Harbour, in lat. 0° 4' S., and it is about l^or 2 miles wide, and nearly of equal extent,
containing several islets, but apparently not surveyed by the French ships when they
gave it this name.
Port Duperrey is formed on the west side, and Port D'Urville on the ea.st side of a PortDupcmy,
narrow peninsula that separates them, the north extremity of which, called Point Co- fn*d Point"'""'
quille, is in lat. 0°3' S., Ion, 130° 36^' E. These two harbours are small, each rather coquiiie.
more than a quarter of a mile in diameter, of circular form, with soundings from 10 to
20 fathoms, sand or coral, excepting near tlie shores, where the water is very shoal in
some parts : both are open to northerly winds. Port Duperrey has a brook of fresh
water at the south extremity, and several streams run into Port D'Urville.
Oflak Harbour (the entrance), in lat. 0° 1^' S., Ion. 130° 43' E., about 9^ leagues o^';'^ ""-
eastward of Piapis Harbour, is bounded by high land, and not easily discerned from the
offing. On the east side the entrance stands a Sugar Loaf Hill, about 500 feet high,
and inland a conical peak, called the Buffalo's Horn, which is in one witli the Sugar
Loaf bearing S. S.W. Tiic entrance of the harbour is rather more than a quarter of a
mile wide, with 20 and 30 fathoms water; the course in is South and S. by E., keeping
nearest the western side, on account of some rocky islets, like haycocks, which lie near
the eastern face of the entrance. The iiarbour inside the entrance, forming a great in-
land basin of deep water, stretches nearly 5 miles to the eastward and westward, and
is from a (quarter of a mile to one mile in breadth. The ea.stern side of tlie entrance is
fronted by a group of islets, the outermost of which has a pool of fresh water on it,
with a reef adjacent, and some rocks to the north-westward. There are from 12 to 6
fatiioms, mud, near some of these islets, and 20 to 20 fathoms about mid-way betwixt
them and the east point of the harbour entrance. A little hss tlian a cjuarter of a mile
* Rossel Bav, formed between Cape Forrest and Cape Dentrecasteaux, tlie western extremity of Waygiou,
does not seem to have been explored by the French surveying ships ; nor Ueauprc Iiarbour, an inlet of the sea
on the south side of the latter cape.
614
GILLOLO PASSAGE. — BUCCLEUGH SHOAL.
Kawak Har-
liom.
Piilo Manou-
aran.
Boni Road.
Coast to Point
Pisot.
inside, and to the eastward of the south point of the eastern shore of the entrance,
there is a small sandy cove, with 10 fathoms water in it, and a stream of fresh water
running- into the sea, where the French surveying- ship Coquille, Mons. Duperrey, an-
chored in 1823, and erected an observatory on the shore.
Cape Freycinet, in Ion. 130° 45^' E., on the equator, about 3 or 4 miles E. N. E. from
the entrance of Offak Harbour, and consisting of high land, is the northernmost part
of Waygiou.
Rawak Harbour, distant from Oftak Harbour about 4^ leagues to the eastward, is
formed inside of Pulo Rawak, which is separated from the coast by a navigable channel
about a quarter of a mile wide, having from 6 to 9 fathoms water. The eastern en-
trance is nearly half a mile wide, with depths of 15 to 17 fathoms, decreasing to 10
fathoms inside. A ship may be tolerably sheltered here, but it is open to the east-
ward and north-eastward ; water can be procured from two streams on the Waygiou
shore opposite, which is inhabited. The Uranie French corvette, Mons. Freycinet,
December, 1818, anchored on the east side of Rawak, in 11 fathoms water, about a
quarter of a mile to the southward of the east point of that island, and fixed the obser-
vatory on shore, close to a small lagoon, to the Avestward of the ship.
Pulo Manouaran, distant about 2 miles from the coast, and 4 miles N.VV. of Pulo
Rawak, is of moderate height, with a pool of fresh water near the south point, and an
islet close to its N.W. extremity. There are soundings to the eastward and westward
of Manouaran, and a safe channel inside of it, with irregular depths from 10 to 20
fathoms. The entrance of Kabarei Bay is about 1 or H miles to the south-eastward
of Pulo Rawak, which bay is above a mile in extent, with depths of 11 and 12 fathoms
in the entrance, to 6 and 5 fathoms inside, near the shore ; there are at the S.W. part
small islets, fronting a cove called Port Saouni by the French, having only 2 and 3
fathoms water, where small vessels might be land-locked near the village Saouni, but
the entrance is very narrow between the small islets.
Boni Harbour, in lat. 0° IJ' S., Ion. 131° 3' E., distant 6 or 6^ miles eastward of
Pulo Rawak, is formed on the east side by Boni Isle, and its fronting reef, which ex-
tends above a mile to the northward and eastward of that island ; and by Cape Guerin,
or Waygiou, to the westward. Here is a river, where boats can fill their casks with
fresh -water at all times of tide.* The French ships Recherche and Esperance, on
their voyage in search of La Perouse, remained at this anchorage from the KJth to the
28th of August, 1793, to renovate the health of their scorbutic crews. They procured
from the natives turtles brought from the Yowl Islands, hogs, fowls, rice, sago, coco-
nuts, oranges, sugar-cane, pumpkins, &c. Other French navigators have touched
here for refreshments, during their exploring voyages in the eastern seas. Chinese
vessels sometimes touch here, and at other harbours among the Molucca Islands.
From Boni Island, the coast of Waygiou trends to the south-eastward, then round
to South and S. S.W. towards Point Pigot ; about 3 or 4 leagues northward of that
point it is fronted by a reef extending out to a considerable distance, and which may pro-
bably be connected by detached patches with the Buccleugh Shoal now to be described.
Buccleugh
Shoal.
THE BUCCLEUGH SHOAL, discovered by the Company's ship Duke of Buc-
cleugh, August 24th, 1797, is described in her journal as follows: — " At 1^ p.m. saw-
coral rocks under the bottom, apparently 5 or 6 fathoms under water ; up helm imme-
* Boni Village, on the N.W. part of the isle of this name, has a small lake near it, and there is a boat channel
through the reef to the village. The French Observatory was placed on Waygiou shore, west side of the har-
bour, close to the river mentioned above.
GILLOLO PASSAGE. — YOWL ISLANDS. 615
diately, as the water appeared shoaler on the weather bow. When the lead was got
ready, the reef or shoal was half a cable's length astern, had then 20 fathoms, sand and
gravel, extremes of Waygiou bearing from N. 52° W. to Point Pigot S. 60° W., and
the small island just open with the point, the nearest part of Waygiou, distant 12 or
13 miles ; at this time lat. 0° 17' S., from noon observation."
The shoal appeared 2 or 3 miles in extent, as the discoloured water over the rocks
shewed from the mast-head ; and although squally weather prevented a boat being
sent to sound, yet no doubt on some parts of it there is very little water.
H.M.S. Hesper, Captain Campbell, got upon this shoal December 28th, ]81o,
after passing out of Dampier Strait. At daylight, when 4 or 5 miles East of Point
Pigot, hauled up N.E. ; but perceiving breakers at a considerable distance off the east
end of the Island Waygiou, bore away to the eastward. At 9 a.m. hauled up again
to north-eastward, at 10 observed the water discoloured, saw rocks under the bottom,
and putting the helm up, cleared the slioalest part of a dangerous rocky bank, in
passing over which had 7, 9, 6, 4|, 5, and 14 fathoms, then no bottom, when the
following bearings were immediately taken : the trees on the small island off Point
Pigot W. 30° S., just visible with the eye, elevated 16 feet above the sea. Point
Pigot W. 25^° S., and the supposed eastern point of Waygiou W. 37^ N. The shoal
is about 11 or 12 miles distant from the nearest land, which is the east end of Way-
giou, and although so far off, may probably be connected by detached patches with the
breakers seen in the morning, and it may be the outermost of them. The rocks on
the shoalest part of it did not appear to be more than 8 or 10 feet under water, when
between the waves of the heavy swell then rolling over them, which on this part
seemed almost ready to break.
This shoal is very dangerous, as ships generally haul up north-eastward after pass-
ing out of Dampier Strait, to avoid the risk of being set over on the coast of New
Guinea, by the heavy swell and baffling northerly winds which sometimes prevail.
But as the shoal bears E. 30°N., distant 12 miles from the island off Point Pigot, sink
that island from the deck of a large ship, bearing to the westward of W. 30° S., when
departing from Dampier Strait.
The Castlereagh, Captain Durant, January 26th, 1826, got upon the Buccleugh
Shoal at 9f a.m. : rocks were seen under the bottom ; immediately tacked to the east-
ward, Point Pigot bearing S. 62° W., island off it S. 59° AV., northern extreme of
Waygiou N. 55° W., open to the northward of a peaked hill near the sea: had
9|, 7, and 13 fathoms in stays, when the above bearings were taken, and in a few-
minutes afterwards, steering E. by N., had no ground. The shoal appeared of great
extent, and at least 12 miles off shore; sent a boat to sound on it, and 5^ fathoms were
found on the eastern verge, but she had not time to examine it properly.
The Castlereagh spoke a ship a few days afterwards, whicii had worked to the
northward between the shoal and Waygiou shore, and found the channel safe, without
any apparent danger.
THE YOWL, or AIOIJ ISLANDS, consist of a circular group of small low isles, vowiisianu.
about twenty in number, fortified by an extensive reef, whicii projects around them to
a considerable distance, generally 2 or 3 miles, and it is steep to. The southernmost
islands, extending nearly East and West about 5 leagues, are (ive in number; and
the largest, called Aiou, or J3aba, is about 3 miles long, having a considerable number
of huts^on its west end, and is the fourth island from the eastward. It lies in about
lat. 0° 25' N., Ion. 131° 0' E., or 18 miles West from l*oiut Pigot by chronometer;
616
DAMPIER AND PITT STRAITS.
and the channel betwixt the coast of Waygoiu and the nearest part of the reef is about
8 leagues wide. The south-westernmost island of the group is detached a consi-
derable distance from the others. The central and southernmost islands are uneven,
and a little higher than the north-eastern ones, which are low and flat; several of
them are inhabited, and they abound with excellent turtle. The north-western island
is in hit. 0° 38' N., Ion. 131° 8' E. ; the north-eastern in lat. 0° 36' N., Ion. 131° 15' E.,
or 2° 4' E. from the Catherine Islands by chronometers ; and the northern extremity
of the reef that surrounds them is in lat. 0° 41' N. Within 30 yards of the breakers
the Lord North's boat had no ground 60 fathoms.
Asia Islands. THE ASIA ISLANDS were first distinctly pointed out by the ship of this name,
July 1st, 1805, in her passage from China to Bombay. January 12th, 1807, the Anna
passed between them and the Yowl Islands ; the Cumbrian, Bellona, and Persever-
ance,* have also passed through this channel at different times ; it is 6^ leagues broad,
and clear of danger. When passing near the northernmost of the Yowl Islands in the
Anna, part of Waygiou was in sight, and the Asia Islands were just visible from the deck.
They consist of three low, level islands, the south- westernmost of which is smallest,
situated in lat. 1° 0' N., and bears N. 3° E. from the north-eastern Yowl Island, dis-
tant 24 miles, or in Ion. 131° 17' E. by the Anna's chronometers: but the Asia made
it 2 miles East of Point Pigot by chronometers, or in Ion. 131° 20' E.
The soutliernmost islands lie near each other ; and the other, detached from them
about 5 miles N. E. by N., has a reef above water projecting from its N. E. extreme
about 1 or 2 miles eastward. This island is in lat. 1° 4' N., Ion. 131° 2.3' E., or
5 miles East from Point Pigot by chronometers. The London, December 30th, 1824,
observed at noon in lat. 0° 47' N., Ion. 131° 18' E. by lunars, when the centre of the
groups of the Asia and Y owl Islands were bearing N. by E. and S. by W. of each
other, being in a transit line between them, and the easternmost of the latter was seen
from the deck bearing South.
From Pitt
Passage to-
wards Danipier
Strait.
Grosvenor
Shoal.
DAMPIER AND PITT STRAITS.
SHIPS proceeding through Pitt Passage, and which do not go out by the Gillolo
Passage, usually steer eastward for Dampier Strait, betwixt Pulo Popa and the
Kanary Islands : this is the narrowest part of Pitt Passage, being about 8 or 9 leagues
wide. The channel betwixt the Boo Islands and Pulo Popa, and on the north side
the latter, is frequently adopted by ships bound to or from Dampier Strait in either
monsoon, being considered equally safe as that southward of Pulo Popa.
THE GROSVENOR SHOAL, on which the Grosvenor anchored at 8 p.m., January
31st, 1763, is the only known danger in the Pitt Passage, but its situation was not
then correctly ascertained ; Pulo Popa bore from E. by N. ^ N. to N. E. ^ E, ; the
body of the island N. E. by E. f E., distant about 5 leagues ; and the Boo Islands from
N. I W. to N. W. by W., distant from the nearest about 3 leagues. Although she
got on it in the night, the rocks were seen under the bottom ; and after weighing,
Avith the boats sounding ahead, the water deepened fast from 4^ to 10, 20, and 30
fathoms, then no ground.
* This ship passed these islands January 12th, 1807, the same day as the Anna, but not in company, and
thought they were a new discovery. The Lord North, however, saw them July 19th, 1782, or three days after
discovering the island bearing her name.
PITT PASSAGE — GROSVENOR SHOAL. G17
The Castlereagh, of Bombay, struck on this shoal. The following account of it was
transmitted by Captain Durant, of that ship.
January 9th, 1817, at 11 p.m., saw the Boo Islands bearing N.E. ; steered between
East and E. N. E,, kept the lead going, but got no soundings. At 3 a.ji. the ship
struck on a coral shoal, got out the long boat and cutter, carried out the stream
anchor, and dropped it in 9 fathoms water about half a cable's lengtli from the ship,
and hove her otf, then deepened immediately from 3^ to 9 and l(i fathoms, next cast
no ground. When upon the shoal, found the current setting directly towards the Boo
Islands 4 knots per hour ; had no time to take correct bearings, but the shoal bears
from the east end of the Boo Islands between S. ^ W. and S. ^ E., as the east end of
those islands bore nearly North when we struck. At daylight Pulo Popa bore E.
by S. and the Boo Islands N. W., distant 4 or 5 miles.
This danger was seen by Captain Wyllie, in the Dona Carmalita, September 20th,
1826, and the ship passed along its northern side, within a mile of tiie strong rip-
plings and breakers which were conspicuous on the edge of the shoal, the current then
setting strong to the southward against a moderate breeze at S. S. E. Wlien the ex-
tremes of the shoal bore from S. 50° E. to S. 38° W., and the nearest part South,
distant one mile, the easternmost Boo Island bore from N. 22° E. to N. 2° W. ; the
southernmost island of Pulo Popa group N. 8° E., the trees on it just visible with the
eye elevated 16 feet. By noon observation, the centre of the shoal was found to be
in lat. 1° 17^ S., Ion. 129° 28' E., or 1° 56' W. from Point Pigot by chronometers,
and it bears from the southernmost of the Boo Islands S. 20° W., distant 12 or 13 miles.
INo soundings were got in passing the north side of the shoal within a mile ; it ap-
peared to extend 3 or 4 miles E. N. E. and W. S. W., and was 1,^^ or 2 miles in
breadth, having probably from 3 to 6 feet water on the exterior ridge of rocks that sur-
rounds a basin of deeper water inside ; there seemed to be greater depth of water on the
south side of the shoal, with openings, which might possibly admit a ship into the basin.
THE KANARY ISLANDS, bounding the south side of the passage in this part, Ka.mry is.
are an extensive chain of flat, woody, uninhabited islands, stretching along the north
coast of Mysole about E. by N., having a narrow passage betwixt some of them, and iiarhours
other isles which lie close to that coast. The Grand Kanary, in lat. 1° 44' S., and
about 5 or 6 leagues West from the meridian of the body of Pulo Popa, is of con-
siderable size, and the largest of these islands. On its south side, about 4 miles from
the east point, there is a pool of fresh water, w ith anchorage of 6 and 7 fathoms on the
north side the point, between it and the two nearest islands. Captain Forrest, who
touched at this place, named it Round Harbour ; he found soundings near these
islands, and channels betwixt some of them, with irregular depths from 9 to 25
fathoms.
MYSOLE is a large island, extending East and West about 14 leagues, and about Mysoie.
half that breadth ; the nortii side of it, fronting the Kanary Islands, is level land, of
moderate height, and its coasts are lined almost all round by a range of small isles.
The channel betwixt the east end of Mysole and the west point of New Guinea and
Salawatty is 9 or 10 leagues wide, with several small islands in it, and soundings in
the southern part.
Captain Forrest visited Eflie Harbour, which is small, and formed by the Island Efbe Harbour.
Efbe, on the south coast of Mysole : here, he found the small village of Efbe, and was
well received by its inhabitants ; tiie lat. of this place is about 2° 12' S.
VOL. II. 4 K
lands, and
adjacent small
618
DAMPIER STRAIT.
Piilo Popa.
Contiguous
isles-
Battanta
Island.
Cape IMabo.
Fisher Island.
Other isles.
PULO POPA is inhabited, and, including the contiguous isles, which surround its
S. W, and West parts, extends about 5 or (J leagues East and West; it is about 3
leagues in breadth. A semicircular hill, like a Bee-Hive, and another oblong hill,
both near the N. W. end of the island, render it very conspicuous ; the eastern part
extending considerably in low, flat land. The N. E. point of the island is on a transit
with the Bee-Hive bearing W. ^ S., and the S. E. point is on a transit with it, bear-
ing W. :|;N. The S. E. point is in lat. 1° 12' S., Ion. 129° 32' E., or 1° 26' West
from Point Pigot by chronometer, and the round hill is in lat. 1° 9' S. The group
of small isles off the S. W. part of Pulo Popa are sometimes called Tatas, and
Calap is a considerable island near its west end. Deception Island, to the N. E. of
Calap, and adjoining the N. W. part of Pulo Popa, appears like four separate islands,
in passing along the north side of it, having four different points, each resembling an
island, until they are closely approached. Close to, and among these isles which
surround the western part of Pulo Popa, there are soundings, but none at 2 or 3 miles'
distance. When Calap was opening between Deception Island and Pulo Popa, Cap-
tain Clarke, of the True Briton, in July, 1802, had from 30 to 17 and 15 fathoms
water; then 2-5 fathoms, with the round hill on Pulo Popa bearing E. ^ S., and De-
ception Island from E. by S. to S. W. f W., distant off shore about a mile. She
hauled off about 1^ miles, and for a considerable time carried irregular soundings
from 17 to 3(J fathoms, shells and coral, then no ground 60 fathoms ; when in 12|-
fathoms, the least water found there was a rippling. On opening the west end of
Calap beyond Deception Island, bearing S. W. by S., the Boo Islands appeared W.
by S., distant 6 or 7 leagues ; and when the west end of Pulo Popa was opened
beyond Deception Island, a sandy basin was seen on the north side the former, with
shoal water, and a round bush upon a rock in the centre of the basin.
Battant.a. Island separates Dampier and Pitt straits from each other, and is about
45 miles in length East and West ; Cape Mabo, its western extreme, is in lat. 0° 56' S.,
Ion. 130° 25' E.,or 53 miles West of Point Pigot by chronometer, bearing N. E. by E. ^ E.
from the S. E. end of Pulo Popa, distant about 13 leagues. Fisher Island is
small, but high, and fronts the cape, bearing W. ^ N. from it, about 2 miles' distance ;
these bound the west entrance of Dampier Strait on the south side, and a chain of
low, flat islands bounds it to N. Westward.
Battanta Island, and also Salawatty, on the south side Pitt Strait, may be discerned
in clear weather, after a ship has passed Pulo Popa on either side, both of these
islands being-
high bold land.
Dampier
Strait.
DAMPIER STRAIT, called GAMEN or GEMI by the Dutch, is formed by
Battanta Island on the South, and Waygiou on the north side, being about 23 leagues
in length from Cape Mabo to Point Pigot ; but that part of the strait which has dan-
gers in it, and which lies to the northward of Battanta, is only about 11 leagues in
length, extending from Augusta Shoal to Mansfield Island. Gamen, is the largest of
several islands on the north side the strait, and appears as part of the south coast of
Waygiou, being separated from it only by a narrow channel, leading into a great
basin, called Chabrol Bay by the French, which extends in a N. N. W. direction
several miles across Waygiou, within 1^ or 2 miles of the western arm of Offak Har-
bour, and within 2^ miles of Ports Duperrey and D'Urville, nearly cutting through
the island. On the western side of Chabrol Bay two other bays branch from it, and
at its northern extremity is Port Blosseville, a safe harbour, with 4 and 5 fathoms
water, in lat. 0° 5' S., loti. 130° 40' E.
DAMPIER STRAIT. 619
KING WILLIAM ISLAND, to the southward of Gamen, and on the north side KingwiUiam,
the strait, is hif^h, with a white patch on its eastern extremity ; it may be seen 12 or 13 isitnd^.^"^
leagues, and when first discerned in coming from the eastward, three hills on it appear
like separate islands. Contiguous to the east end of King William Island is Hump
Island, with a round rocky islet a small distance outside of it. Several small islets lie
near the shore of Waygiou.
AUGUSTA AND PIGEON ISLANDS are two small low islands, in lat. 0°37'S., Augustaand
at a considerable distance to the southward of Kins William Island, and bound the fjiand".
north side of the pi oper passage: in landing on them, care is requisite to prevent boats
being injured by the sharp rocks during the ebb tide. To the northward, betwixt these
islands and King William Island, there is said to be several shoals, with intricate Contiguous
channels among them ; and although a ship in a clear day might find a safe passage channel"
this way, by keeping a good look-out at the mast-head, it ought not to be attempted
unless in a case of necessity. Neither ought the narrow |>assage betwixt Augusta and
Pigeon Islands to be attempted ; for although the Cornwallis and some other vessels
have gone through it, there is considerable risk, as it is very narrow, and formed be-
twixt steep coral shoals.
Pigeon Island bears about E. by S. from Augusta Island, and at low water their
shores are separated about half a mile: each is surrounded by a coral bank, which does
not stretch out far to south-eastward, or northward of them ; but a chain of coral patches
appears to extend 3 miles from them in a S. Westerly direction, with others nearly
2 miles to the westward. On the south side Pigeon Island, the coral bank, with only
3 or 4 feet water on it, projects about half a cable's length, then the water deepens fast
to 3, 5, and 10 fathoms. From the east end of this island, a reef and sand, partly above
water, stretches out a quarter of a mile, deepening to 5 and fathoms about 1 or l^ miles
from the island. Farther eastward, about 3 to 5 miles from Pigeon Island, there is a
bank of coral and sand, about 3 miles in extent, with various depths, from 8 to 14 or
15 fathoms. This bank aflbrds anchorage to ships stopping tide, or during the Bank of
night, for there is thought to be no less than 6 or 7 fathoms water on it, and these ''"'^'""^*-
depths are generally found on the west part, near the reef that projects from Pigeon
Island.
The narrow channel betwixt Augusta and Pigeon Island has ."0 fathoms water in
the middle of it, when in a direct line between them ; and from 20 to 10 lathoms in the
western part, about a mile from Augusta Island. The coral banks bounding it on each
side appear to have 2^ or 3 fathoms water on them at low tide; consequently, there is
depth sufficient for a small vessel. Sharp coral rock, lining the shores of these islands,
makes wooding here inconvenient, and the landing is difficult ; the tide ebbs and flows
1 1 or 12 feet perpendicular.
FOUL ISLAND, about 3 leagues E.S. Eastward of Pigeon Island, betwixt the foui island,
east end of King William Island and the north shore of Battanta, but nearest to the
latter, is small, and bounds tlie proper channel on the south side. This is the narrowest
part of the strait, for Foul Island ought not to be approached under 3 miles, on account
of the Vansittart Shoal.
MANSFIELD ISLAND, bearing nearly East from Foul Island, about 2^ or 3 ^.u^^tnd
leagues, is a white sand-bank, covered with a cliunp of tall trees, and situated on the others.
south side the strait, upon the edge of Vansittart Shoal. There is another island, of
4 K 2
620
DAMPIER STRAIT.
VansiUiirt
Shoal.
Fresh water
river.
similar appearance, about a mile inside of Mansfield Island, with some others con-
tiguous to the Battanta shore, scarcely discernible in passing.
THE VANSITTART SHOAL resembles nearly in shape a right-angled triangle,
stretching a great way out from the north side of Battanta ; Foul Island being near
the angular point, distant 2^ or 2 miles from the N.W. extremity of the shoal ; and two
sand-banks, dry at low water, which lie on the western extremity, bear from Foul Island
W. by S. i S., distant about 4 miles. The north side of this extensive shoal takes an
easterly direction from its N. Western angle, towards the east end of Battanta, having
Mansfield Island on its northern edge ; and being steep to all round, it ought not to be
too closely approached. The True Briton's boat had from 40 fathoms near the western
edge of the shoal, to 20 and 10 fathoms suddenly, then 4 feet upon it, with the two
sand-banks bearing from S. E. ^ S. to S. E. ^ E., distant half a mile. Foul Island E. by N.
about 2 or 3 miles, west extreme of Battanta S.W. by W.^VV., and the west end
of Augusta Island IN'.W. by VV. From hence, steering about E. by N. on the edge of
the shoal, in 1^ to 4 fathoms, she had at the distance of a cable's length, on the same
course, 39 fathoms, one of the sand-banks bearing S. ^ W., the other S.W. by W., Foul
Island E. by N. | N., west end of Battanta S.W. by W.fW., the east end of Augusta and
west end of Pigeon Islands in one, N.W. ^ W. With Mansfield and Foul Islands in
one, had suddenly from 37 to 4 fathoms, then 3 feet : with Foul Island bearing E. }j S.,
distant li or 2 miles, and Augusta Island W. N.W., she had from 21 fathoms suddenly
to 3 and 2 feet on the edge of the shoal.
About 3 or 3^ leagues S.W. from Foul Island, and near the S. Western extremity
of Vansittart Shoal, there is a bay formed on the Battanta shore, with a fresh water
river, bearing nearly South from Pigeon Island. Here, wood and water may be got;
but as there are some habitations on the spot, boats should be on their guard, for these
islands are inhabited partly by Papuas, from the coast of New Guinea, who are in a
savage state. About a mile off the entrance of this river there are soundings from 20
to 30 fathoms, decreasing to 17 and 18 fathoms on a bank farther out, about 2 or 24
miles North from it.
There is a small bay about 4 miles westward of the fresh water river, having some
islands in it covered with mangroves, where the landing is difficult: soundings, gene-
rally deep water, extend along the N. Western side of Battanta, to the distance of about
2 leagues from the shore.
Besides Vansittart Shoal, and those projecting from Augusta and Pigeon Islands,
there appear to be several detached coral patches in Dampier Strait, only one or two
of whicii are known to be dangerous, and they have generally deep water contiguous
to them.
Other shoal
patches.
Augusta Shoal. AUGUSTA SHOAL, bearing from Augusta Island W. by S., distant 2 leagues, is
a small patch of coral, on which the Princess Augusta had 4 fathoms; but there seems
to be several shoal spots, having too little water on them for large ships, which conse-
quently ought to be avoided. The Buccleugh struck on one of them, August 26th,
1797, whilst in stays ; the water being perceived discoloured, the helm was put down,
and the ship immediately struck, but came round, then fell into 17 fathoms water. At
this time Augusta Island bore E. by ^.^ N., Pigeon Island E. by N., and the west
point of Battanta about S. by VJ .^ W. The Woodford got into danger, at a greater
distance westward of Augusta Island, September 1st, 1797 : she struck and lost way
for a few minutes, had 4 fathoms, rocks, by the lead ; but as no discoloured water was
DAMPIER STRAIT. 621
seen ahead, she continued to stand S.W. with the wind at S. S. E., and havin;^ run
about 2 cables' lengths, struck again, and had (J fathoms, rocks, in the chains. The helm
being then put down, the ship came round, stood East under a press of sail for about
10 or 15 minutes, and seeing the apj)earance of sshoal water on the lee bow, tacked to
S.W., and deepened gradually from 25 to 40 fathoms no ground. The attention of all
on board having been directed to the safety of tiie ship, no bearings were taken until
this time : Augusta Island then bore N. E. by E. i E., distant about leagues; Pigeon
Island E.N.E.,just in sight from the poop; body of King William's Island iV.E.byE. ;
Fisher Island S. ^ W. 5 or leagues ; Cape Mabo S. ^ E., and the chain of low islands
from N.W. by N. to W. f S. Although, unfortunately, the true position of these rocky
patches cannot be ascertained by this description taken from the Woodford's Journal,
they probably bear about W. by S. or W. by S. | S. from Augusta Island, distant 5 or t»
leagues. These dangers are avoided by keeping within .3 leagues of the IN.W. side of iiowtoavoui
Battanta, until Augusta and Pigeon Islands bear well to the northward. theshoais.
OTHER SHOAL PATCHES extend from Augusta Island to the S, Westward, shoaUnear
the outermost of which is about half a cable's length in extent, having 4f fathoms, fji'fnj"
coral rock, in the centre, deepening to 10 and 20 fathoms towards the edges. Foul
Island bears from it E. by S. i S., the east part of Pigeon Island N. E. by E. ^ E.,
and the body of Augusta Island N. by E. ^ E., distant 2^ or 3 miles.
The soundings eastward of Pigeon Island deepen fast from thence towards the N.W. soundings.
edge of Vansittart Shoal, and are very irregular, with deep holes in some parts. The
Glatton anchored in 40 fathoms, rocky bottom, with Foul Island bearing S. E. 4 or
5 miles, Hump Island N. N. E., the west part of Battanta about W. by S., and in
tending with her head to the northward, no ground could be obtained witli 140
fathoms line.
From the bank of anchorage eastward of Pigeon Island, the water deepens fast to
the northward, towards the east end of King William Island, there being no ground
90 fathoms about a mile off it.
To the northward of King William Island there are dangerous shoals, some of them Coast of way-
sand-banks even with the water's edge; and two considerable villages on the Way- fhort'is^aiija-
Giou SHORE adjacent are fronted by a coral shoal, steep to, rendering the a)>proach to cent.
them unsafe. These villages lie N. N. Eastward of Hump Island, on the west side
the mouth of a large strait, full of islands, which separates Gamen from Waygiou.
The inhabitants of these villages sometimes come off in their canoes to ships passing,
bringing with them coarse mats, bows and arrows, birds of paradise, with a few
pumpkins, which they will exchange for white cloth ; but they seem very poor, pos-
sessing no articles of consequence.
The Waygiou shore, betwixt King William Island and Point Pigot, ought not to
be too closely approached, as it is fronted by some shoals. The Grosvenor, February
9th, 17()3, discerned shoal water, on which ])lace the boat found 9 feet, rocks and
sand, with no soundings at (iO fatlioms close to it. After tackiug, the body of the
rocks were seen from the mast-head bearing N.E. ^N., distant about 3 miles; Way-
giou bearing from E. by N. h N. to W. .} S., about 3 leagues distant ; a small island
off Point Pigot E. by N. ; the south entfof King William island W. by S. i S. ; and
the east end of Battanta .S. by W.
The Bombay, Cajitain A. IlaniiUon, in 1820, .saw a dry sand-bank about 1 or
1^ miles distant from the Waygiou shore, and when it bore N. ^ W., Cape Spencer,
622 DAMPIER STRAIT.
or Foul Point, bore S. i E., and the east point of Battanta S.W. ^ S. This sand-
bant: is on a transit line, with a round knob, like an island, bearing N. by W. ^ W., and
it is in a transit line with the west end of the island off Point Pigot, bearing N. by £.
To sail from If you intend to proceed through Darapier Strait, haul up near the Boo Islands, and
i^a'ds'ijani!"' P^^'^ ^^ ^'^"^ "'''"^^'^ ^'^'^ <^^ ^"1° Popa, if the wind incline at N.W., in order to lead
piei Strait. rouud Fisher Island into the entrance of the strait, without losing time. If, however,
night is approaching, it may be advisable to pass on the south side of Pulo Popa, and,
after rounding its eastern extremity, haul up N. E. or N. E. by N. for Dampier Strait;
because the current sets generally S. E. or southward, which makes the passage to the
northward of Pulo Popa preferable, when circumstances are favourable ; but care
must be taken to give a berth to the chain of low islands situated N.W. and W. N.W.
of Cape Mabo, about 8 leagues distant ; for there may be dangers in their vicinity, ex-
clusive of the shoal patches to the eastward, between them and Augusta Island. They
are all avoided by borrowing towards the western shore of Battanta, which is bold,
and it is also the safe side of the channel.
When Cape Mabo is brought to bear South, keep within 3 leagues of Battanta, and
do not bring Pigeon Island to the eastward of E. N. E. or N. E. by E. f E., by which
means the Augusta Shoal and the other patches bordering the north side of the chan-
nel will be avoided ; for they seem to extend in a direction about W. by S. or W. by
S. ^ S. from Augusta Islands about 6 leagues, or nearly to the chain of low islands.
Having passed about 3 or 4 leagues to the N. E. of Fisher Island, soundings will
be got along the shore of Battanta; they extend across to the north side of the
channel in some places, and to Augusta and Pigeon Islands ; but the soundings are
generally irregular, from 70 to 35 fathoms, except where they decrease near to, or on
the edge of some of the shoal patches contiguous to the north side of the channel. As
the bottom is generally foul, it is prudent to use a light anchor, if obliged to stop tide ;
because several ships have been obliged to leave their anchors behind, on account of
their hooking the rocks.
Passage When the west part of Battanta is approached, keep within 3 leagues of it in steer-
through tiie i,^g ]y Eastward, with Augusta Island bearing about N. E. by E. ; or if Mansfield
Island is discernible, and kept on with the south end of Foul Island, you will pass clear
to the southward of the shoal patches which border the north side of the channel.
Having brought Augusta Island to bear N. by E., about 4 or 5 miles distant, haul
more to the northward, to give a berth to the western part, and N.W. angle of Van-
sittart Shoal, by passing at a convenient distance of 2 or 3 miles on the south side
Pigeon Island. Betwixt this island and Vansittart Shoal is the narrowest part of the
strait, being 2^ or 3 leagues wide ; and to avoid the edge of the shoal, which is steep
to. Foul Island ought not to be approached under 4 miles' distance, when it bears
between East and S.S. E. When this island is brought to bear S. by E. or South,
there are no more soundings : and in steering eastward, keep well to the northward of
a direct line joining Foul Island and Mansfield Island, for that line passes over the
north part of Vansittart Shoal.
THE BANK OF SHOAL SOUNDINGS, from 6 or 7 to 12 or 14 fathoms,
extending 4 or 5 miles eastward of Pigeon Island, is very convenient for anchoring
upon occasionally to stop tide, or during the night ; the bottom consists of sand and
gravel in some places, and on its eastern extremity, where the water deepens, the
ground becomes soft. South-eastward and southward of Pigeon Island are sound-
ings of 12 to 15 fathoms, coral rock, on some patches ; the bottom in general through-
DAMPIER STRAIT. — TIDES.
623
out the strait is rocky, not affording good anchorage, except in a few parts where it is
a little soft, or consisting of sand mixed with shell and coral.
Having passed through the narrow part of the strait, by keeping nearer to Pigeon
Island than to Foul Island, when the former bears W. by S., steer a direct course
about E. by N., or E. by N. ^ N., for Point Pigot. Several small islands will be dis- Point Pigot.
cerned near the shore of Waygiou, and some inlets or bays, which ought not to be
approached too close; for the shoal seen by the Grosvenor seems to lie at a consi-
derable distance from that shore, and there may be others contiguous to the coast not
yet explored. Point Pigot ought to be passed moderately close in going out of the
strait, to prevent being driven close to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly
swell that generally prevails outside ; but care must be taken to give a berth to the
Buccleugh Shoal.
POINT PIGOT, the S. E. extremity of Waygiou, in lat. 0° 21' S., Ion. 131° 18' E. Point Pigot.
by our chronometers from Batavia, and I made it the same by lunar observations,* is
moderately elevated, having two little islands covered with trees fronting it at l^ or
2 miles' distance to the southward, one of which is much larger than the other. The
channel betwixt this point and the coast of New Guinea is about 8 leagues wide, and
the three different routes by Dampier, Pitt, and Revenge Straits, here unite, leading
out into the Pacific Ocean. Ships bound out take their departure from Point Pigot,
and they endeavour to fall in with it when approaching these straits. The variation
off it in 1793 was l^° easterly. variation.
THE TIDES in Dampier Strait, which rise from 10 to 12 feet perpendicularly on Tides or (ur.
the springs, run frequently strong, but are very irregular. Towards the western plers'traitrriia
entrance, betwixt Pulo Popa and Cape Mabo, there is frequently a current setting south- '" ''* vicinity.
ward during the North-west Monsoon, from September to April, but subject to devia-
tions, from winds or other secondary causes. In the same place there is generally a
north-westerly or northerly current during the southerly or South-east Monsoon;
although at times there is little or no current.
At the eastern entrance of the strait, betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea, there
appears to be a tide running about 12 hours each way ; but the ebb that sets out east-
ward is generally strongest in both monsoons, and has been experienced sometimes in
the Southerly Monsoon to run out two or three days together, only slacking a little
when the flood ought to set to the westward.
Although these easterly tides or currents are frequently found to set out betwixt
Point Pigot and New Guinea, during the South-east Monsoon, this is not always the
case ; for strong N.W. currents sometimes sweep along tlie north coast of Waygiou,
whereby several ships, in March and April, have been drifted between that coast and
the Yowl Islands, when baffled by light airs. Others steering to fall in with Point
Pigot, in July or August, have been carried to the northward of the Yowl Islands
and Asia Islands by a strong N.W. current.
In the narrow part of Dampier Strait, bounded by Foul Island and Vansittart Shoal
to the S. Eastward, and by the Augusta and Pigeon Islands to the N.NN estward,
the tides seem to be very irregular in both monsoons, and run with great velocity about
* This longitude of Point Pigot is probably within 1 or 2 miles of the trutli, as Captain Torin, of the Coutts,
Captain Seton, of the Helen, and I\Ir. Stone, of the Asia, all agree in making it in Ion. 13 P 18' E. by chrono-
meters ; Mt. Brown, chief of the English Factory, Canton, made it in Ion. 131- 19' E. by chronometer from
Canton, and Captain Williams made it in Ion. 131 17' E. by the same means.
624
PITT STRAIT.
Pitt Strait.
Watering
place on
Battanta.
the lull and change of moon. During the strength of tlie North-west Monsoon, in
December, January, and February, the tide to the eastward generally prevails. In this
season the ebl) sometimes runs E. N. Eastward 6 or 8 hours together, or even longer,
from 4 to 5 knots, when strongest in the springs : at other times it only runs 4 or 5 hours
in that direction, from! to 3 knots during neap tides. The flood runs S. Westward
seldom above 3 or 4 hours, and in this season it is generally weak.
In this part of the strait, during the strength of the Southerly Monsoon, from May to
September, the flood sets through to the westward frequently 8 or 10 hours together.
At first it runs about W. S.W., gradually increasing in strength, changing to S.VV. or
S.W. by S. when strongest; the greatest velocity being about 5 miles per hour, or
rather more at times on high spring tides, and about 4 miles during the neaps. After
running strong to S.W. for a few hours, it abates gradually in strength until it changes
and sets eastward from 3 to 5 hours, but seldom strong. The ebb tide setting through
the narrow part of the strait betwixt E. N. E. and N. E. is seldom strong or of long
continuance in this season, for it often runs only about one mile per hour, aj)pearing
as a slack between the returns of the strong S. Westerly tide, but at times the tide to the
eastward has been experienced to run for an hour or two at the rate of 4 knots, even
in this season, and both tides run strongest near the edges of the reefs. On the day
of full moon in July, we found the tide begin to set S. Westward at 7 p.m. ; it con-
tinued strong until midnight, the moon being then on the meridian; after midnight it
gradually abated in strength, and at daylight there was no tide.
PITT STRAIT, called SAGEWYN by the Dutch, is bounded on the north side
by Battanta Island, and on the south side by the north coast of Salawatty and the group
of small islands stretching from thence to the adjacent coast of New Guinea. The
west entrance bears about E. by N. ^ N. from the S. E. point of Pulo Popa, distant
18 or 19 leagues ; and the length of the strait, from the west point of Salawatty until
clear of the reef off the east point of Battanta, is about 13 or 14 leagues : the greatest
breadth is about 7 or 8 miles, and the narrowest part only 4 or 5 miles from side
to side.
The shore of Salawatty is mostly steep to, and except in some places, where rocks
line the Battanta shore to the distance of nearly a c/uarter of a mile, it is also bold to
approach. But the high land on each side subjects this strait to frequent calms, and the
rapid tides in it being attended with strong eddies, ships are thereby rendered un-
governable, and sometimes they are drifted backwards and forwards through the strait
or against its shores. The preference is, therefore, now justly given to Dampier Strait,
where in the narrowest part there is anchorage ; nor ought Pitt Strait to be adopted
unless in a case of great necessity.
About 2 leagues eastward of Cape Mabo there is said to be a reef near the southern
shore of Battanta. The Ponsbourne got water in a small bay farther eastward, where
she anchored in 45 fathoms, dark sand, about half a mile off shore, the watering place
in the bay then bearing N. 8° W. ; west extreme of the bay W. 60° S., distant half a
mile; east point of the bay E. 3° N., with the eastern extremity of the island shut in
behind it ; west end of Salawatty S. 35° E., and the westernmost of the isles outside of
it S. o'^ E.
Inside this strait there is no anchorage on the Battanta side until near its eastern
extremity, except too close to the shore for large ships ; and a ledge of rocks projects
out about a quarter of a mile in some places, with 16 or 20 fathoms close, the next cast
upon it being from 6 to 8 feet.
PITT STRAIT. 625
ROGEWYN, 01- REGEWIN ISLAND, sometimes called Passage Island, lying Rogewy.,
near the southern shore in the western entrance of the strait, is small. There is a bank of '*''""*
soundings eastward of it, with anchorage near the Salawatty shore, where several ships
have remained during the night. The Warwick, at anchor in30 fathoms upon this bank, Anchorage.
had Rogewyn Island bearing W. ^- S. about (5 or 7 miles, open with the point of Salawatty
about a sail's breadth,* a considerable village to the eastward, and a fine fresh water Freshwater.
river about three-quarters of a mile to the westward of the anchorage, Mith three small
streams adjoining. Betwixt it and the village, 25 fathoms water are found about half
a mile from the shore.
The Lord Holland anchored farther eastward, in 58 fathoms, fine gravel and small
shells, about a quarter of a mile ofl^" shore, and 2^ miles inside of the third point of
Salawatty, counting from the east end of the strait: Jackson Island was then on with
the eastern extreme of Salawatty bearing E. 4° N., extreme of New Guinea E. 20° N.,
and Battanta from N. 32° E. to West. The cutter, a little farther westward, got 40
fathoms, decreasing regularly to 8 or 7 fathoms close to the rocky shore ; and the officer
found a stream of good water, convenient for watering a ship. Farther eastward the
Salawatty shore becomes steep. Jackson Island is of considerable height, at some
views resembling a spoon, and lies near the N. E. point of Salawatty, at the entrance
of the strait, in coming from the eastward. July 9th, 1813, the Volunteer anchored in
33 fathoms, east of Rogewyn Island, and carried a hawser to the trees to steady the
ship, which was slipped at the turn of the tide, to prevent the ship from swinging on
shore. The Volunteer also anciiored, July 7th, in 27 fathoms, fine black sand, witii
Jackson or Lipel Island bearing N.W., distant three-quarters of a mile. Between the
4th and 5th points of Salawatty, counting from Jackson Island, there is a bay about H
miles deep, with soundings of 32 fathoms, within the line of the two heads whicli form
it, and not less than 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, within half a mile of tiie bottom of the
bay. Captain Waterman, of the Volunteer, while sounding this bay, saw several places
like runs of fresh water on the shore, and although the tide was running 4 miles per
hour outside, he perceived neither tide nor eddies within the heads of the bay; but the
ship was carried close to tiie 5th point by the tide, and brought up about 20 feet clear
of the rocks which project from that point.
There is a deep bay on the south side Battanta, near the east end of the strait, witli
an island in its entrance; and close to the east part of this island stands a rock with
some bushes on it, where a ship might anchor occasionally, with the rock bearing Anchorage
about North, distant one mile. Tiiere seems to be a considerable |)assage eastward of "^"^^^^'^^
the island, leading into the bay, wiiicli may probably form a good harbour, and tiiere tanta.
appears to be a town at the bottom of it. The Glatton anciiored near this place in 38
fathoms, fine brown sand, north end of Jackson Island bearing E. by S. ^ S., eastern
extreme of Salawatty E. S. E. Easterly, west point of Rogewyn Island W. S.W.,
southernmost ])oint of Battanta W. by S. ^ S., easternmost point of Battanta
N, by E. 4 E., off Battanta shore 2 miles."
Betwixt the east end of Battanta and the first point westward there is a bay, filled
with small islands; and a bank of soundings extends from thence about 3^ leagues Bank of sound-
eastward, with overfalls and generally rockv bottom, the water deepening fast on its ingsimhe
' 1 •!/■•• 1 " eastern part of
southern part, but the north side of it is dangerous. Pitt strait.
* It is very desirable that seamen should discontinue the use of tliis and similar indefinite phrases, and sub-
stitute for them tlie more intelligible ones of " jialf-a-point open," or ' five degrees open," wiiich are at once
botli definite and intelligible. Eu.
VOL. II. 4 L
626
PITT STRAIT.
Battanta Rpef.
standing- from hence N. E
How to pass
clear of it.
ritt Strait,
lierplexiiig and
dangerous.
then S.
byE.iE.,
BATTANTA REEF, or ROCKY SHOAL, extending nearly 3 leagues East
from the east end of Battanta, forms the northern side of the bank of soundings men-
tioned al)0ve, and it is composed of patches of rocks, having only 3 and 3j fathoms on
some of them. The Pigot, wiien aground on one of these patches, had Jackson Island
bearing S. f W., eastern extreme of Battanta West a little southerly, and its
western extreme on with Salawatty S.W. by W., northern extreme of New Guinea
East northerly, off Battanta about 2 leagues. Tlie Glatton, in 6 fathoms, rocks,
had Jackson Island bearing S. by E. f E., Battanta from W. f N., to S.W. f W.;
by E. l^ miles, deepened fast to 32 fathoms, Jackson Island
Battanta from W. ^ N. to S.W. | W. The Thames, after discern-
ing the rocks under her bottom, hauled off, and anchored in 17 fathoms, but swung
into 10 fathoms, coral rock, the east point of Battanta bearing W. by N., Pitt Strait
S.W. by W., and Jackson Island S. 6° E. The boats found the soundings very irregular,
till they got, 6, 5, 4, and 3^ fathoms on the rocks, about a mile west from the ship, with
6 and 8 fathoms around them. The Buccleugh, in company with the Thames,
anchored the same day, February 14th, 1797, in 15 fathoms, coral and sand, with Jack-
son Island bearing S. 15° £., and the east point of Battanta W. f N., off shore about
4 miles ; the boat found only 3 fathoms, coral rock, about | mile N. by W. from the
ship.
The bank of .soundings, lining the south side of Battanta Reef, extends about 3 leagues
nearly E. N. E. and W. S.W., or with Jackson Island bearing between S. E. and
S. by W. Although ships may anchor occasionally on its southern part, in from 20 to
30 fathoms, to stop tide, they ought not to borrow over towards the dangerous spots on
its nortiiern side, nor bring the east point of Battanta to bear so far to the westward as
W. by N., until they lose soundings on the eastern extremity of the bank. The tides
being strong, and the bottom generally foul, render the anchorage on this bank dis-
agreeable ; particularly in the northerly monsoon, when a swell rolls in over it from
north-eastward.
Pitt Strait ought only to be adopted in a case o( parttculcu- necessity. The Thames,
in company with tiie fleet, consisting of six ships, bound from Europe to China, passed
through Pitt Strait, February 14th, 1797: they entered in the evening with alight
westerly breeze, followed by a calm in the night, and the tide having set almost in every
direction during the night, some of the ships were drifted out of, and into tlie strait
again before morning. About sun-rise the tide set rapidly to the eastward, with strong
eddies, and at 8 a.m. it changed, and set with equal violence to the westward : some
of the ships at this time were near the Salawatty shore, in the eastern entrance of the
strait, and the swell and tide setting towards that shore, the Thames had great diffi-
culty in clearing it, with three boats towing her head off shore, and a faint breeze from
the eastward. The Walmer Castle, when close to the Thames, was taken by a strong
eddy upon the bow, which set her directly on the Salawatty shore, where she had 3
fatlioms on one side and 30 fathoms on the other. After being driven along the steep
bank some time, breaking the boughs of the trees with her yards, she got clear without
damage, with the assistance of a light air that came off the land, and the boats of the
fleet towing.
Shortly after, the Canton and Taunton Castle were drifted about in Pitt Strait,
February 23rd and 24th, 1797, sometimes from one end to the other. The Canton was
at one time drifted within a cables' length of the Battanta shore, in 40 fathoms water ;
at another time, within two cables' lengths of the Salawatty shore, and had no ground
GALOWA STRAIT. 627
120 fathoms. After getting to the east end of the strait, they were drifted out of it
again to the westward, then proceeded round to the west end of Battanta, and passed
through Dampier Strait. Other ships have, at various times, been drifted about in
Pitt Strait, by the strong eddies, and were in danger of getting on the rocks, and after
considerable delay proceeded through Dampier Strait. The Volunteer entered Pitt
Strait, bound to the westward, July 7th, 1813, and after being obliged to anchor twice,
in dangerous situations, close to the Salawatty shore, where she lay during a squally
dark night, and was driven backwards and forwards by the tides when under sail in
the daytime, got clear out of the strait on the 9th ; and Captain Waterman, of that
ship, observes, "that nothing will ever induce him to go through Pitt Strait again."
It, however, sometimes may happen, that a ship entering Pitt Strait with a steady
breeze and the beginning of a favourable tide will get speedily through; but as these
instances are rare, it should be avoided if jiossible.
If obliged to pursue the route through Pitt Strait, keep as nearly as possible in mid- Caution.
channel, that the eddies may be less liable to drift you close to either shore : be not
induced by any favourable shift of wind to approach the shore, but continue to make
short tacks in the middle of the strait. When Jackson Island is seen, steer to pass to
the northward of it, at not more than 4 or 5 miles' distance, to avoid the reef off the
east end of Battanta ; which having cleared, haul northward near to Point Pigot,
because several ships, after passing out of these straits, have been embarrassed with
the coast of New Guinea.
GALOWA STRAIT, formed betwixt the Island Salawatty and the coast of New Gaiowa strait.
Guinea, is generally called Revenge, or Watson Strait, because Commodore Watson,
in the Revenge frigate, went througli it in 1764. Lieutenant M'Cluer went through
it with the Panther and Endeavour, when surveying the coast of Ps'ew Guinea in 1790 ;
but it is contracted in several parts by numerous small islands and shoals, and being
out of the direct route of ships proceeding to or from the Pitt Passage, it is properly
avoided by merchant ships. At the north part of it a chain of islands stretches from
Jackson Island, the nearest to the N. E. part of Salawatty, across to Cape Spencer,
the opposite point of land on New Guinea. There are soundings of various depths
through this strait, and amongst the islands in its northern entrance, with anchorage
in many places ; but Jackson Island has deep water very near it on the north side,
and there is said to be some shoals to the southward, with anchorage inside the island,
near the Salawatty shore.
Cape Spencer, called Foul Point by the Dutch, is moderately elevated, and reefs
project to the north-westward from it and the adjoining islands to the distance of
H or 2 miles.
4 L 2
628
FROM DAMPIER STRAIT TOWARDS CHINA, WITH
THE COASTS, ISLANDS, AND DANGERS NEAR
THE PASSAGE.
Caution sailing
from Dam pier
Strait.
North coast of
New Guinea.
Threshold
Point.
SHIPS proceeding out of Dampier Strait into the Pacific Ocean in December
and January, when northerly winds are likely to blow in sudden squalls outside, with
a heavy swell rolling in upon the coast of New Guinea, ought to pass near to Point
Pigot, within 2 or 3 miles of the small islands that front it; then haul up north-
eastward if the wind admit, to avoid the coast of New Guinea ; but the small island
off Point Pigot, or that point itself, must be kept to the westward of W. 30° S. until
it or the point is sunk from the deck of a large ship, in order to give a berth to the
Buccleugh Shoal.
January 4th, 1806, the Mangles, in going out of the strait, passed Point Pigot at
5 leagues' distance, then encountered severe squalls from the north-westward, with
torrents of rain and intervening calms. The sudden heavy gusts of wind not per-
mitting them to carry sail sufficient to keep the ship close to the wind, she was driven
by the heavy swell on the beam, within a few miles of high breakers on the coast of
New Guinea.
Finding they could not clear the coast on either tack, and the ship drifting at the
rate of one mile per hour towards the breakers, the anchors were prepared to let go,
although not in soundings. Fortunately at 5 p.m., January 6th, a steady breeze came
at W. N.W., with which a press of sail was carried, steering N. E. by N. during the
night ; notwithstanding which, it was perceived in the morning that they had wea-
thered the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam, not more than 5 or 6 miles.
The Lord North was from the 12th to the 17th of December, 1781, from Point
Pigot until she got clear of the coast of New Guinea, being baffled with northerly
winds, much rain, and a heavy swell from N. N. Eastward.
THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA, from Cape Spencer, its N.W. point, stretches
about E. N. E. towards Cape Good Hope, its north point, having several small bays
and villages of the native Papuas between them. The north coast of New Guinea is
generally high, but in some places low land fronts the sea : a little way inland, a chain
of mountains extends parallel to the coast, which is covered with trees, and elevated,
in some places, from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.
Thresliold Point, about 6 leagues eastward of Cape Spencer, has a deep bay on the
east side filled with reefs, which surround a small island, and there is low land at the
bottom of the bay ;* the coast betwixt these headlands being lined by steep rocky
shoals, ought not to be approached.
From Threshold Bay eastward, there are soundings from 20 to 60 fathoms in many
* The Dutch cliarts of the Geelvink's voyage place anchorage to the eastward of the shoals in this bay,
opposite High Point, where there is fresh water.
NEW GUINEA, NORTH COAST. — ISLANDS. 629
places within 1 or 2 miles of the shore; but in some parts, reefs project to the dis-
tance of 2 or 3 miles.
Brebes Point, or Cape Wilson, in about lat. 0° 29' S., and 5 leagues to the south- Brebes Point,
westward of Middleburgh Island, has a small bay on the east side, with from 10 to °on^^P^ ™'
30 fathoms water, and reefs on each side the entrance. Betwixt the reef which sur-
rounds Cape Wilson and another reef about a league oft' shore, there appear to be
12 and 13 fathoms water, with 30 or 40 fathoms close to the outer reefs. From hence,
nearly to Middleburgh Island, the coast is steep, having from (JO to 80 fathoms water
near the shore.
Amsterdam and Middleburgh are two low, flat islands, surrounded by a reef, and bear- Amsterdam
ing N.W. and S. E. from each other, distant about a mile. Amsterdam, the outermost, ^".rgh 'itiand.
is in lat. 0° 19J' S., Ion. 132° 15' E. by chronometer from Point Pigot, bearing nearly
West from Cape Good Hope, distant about 5 leagues, and from the coast abreast
about 2 or 2^ leagues. The reef projecting from this island is steep to, having
50 fathoms water near, and 4 or 5 feet upon it in some places. The Geelvink found
soundings of 8 and 10 fathoms betwixt the shore and Middleburgh Island, with an-
chorage to the S. S.W. ; and to the eastward betwixt it and Cape Good Hope, sound-
ings of 15 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom, extend about 3 or 4 miles from the coast,
where a ship might anchor in a case of necessity.
Cape Good Hope, in lat. 0° 20' S., Ion. 132°"31' E.,* or 1° 13' E. from I'oint Pigot cap. goo<i
by chronometer, is a low rugged point, of whitish appearance; and nearly East from it ^'"p*"
4 or 5 leagues lies Tuft Point, sometimes mistaken for the former. This is the north-
ernmost part of the coast of New Guinea, and there are soundings near it; but farther
eastward it is steep to in most places. In the bay, on the east side of Tuft Point,
there are some shoals ; and a shoal lies about 13 leagues eastward, in a bay to the
westward of Bee-Hive Mount, which is near the sea, and resembles a bee-hive or
hay-stack.
Geelvink Bay, about 3^ leagues eastward of the Bee-Hive, has rocks on each side ceeivink
the entrance, with a small islet on the west side, surrounded by a reef. There are 20 ^''''•
and 25 fathoms water in this bay, where the Geelvink anchored in 1705, and pro-
cured wood and water on the western shore : it stretches a considerable way inland,
where it becomes very narrow, and terminates at a fresh water river; the land on the
east side this bay is low contiguous to the sea.
Flat Point, in about lat. 0° 46' S., Ion. 134° 25' E., bearing from Cape Good Hope Fiat I'oim.
about E. 1.3° S., distant 39 leagues, forms the western extremity of the great bay on
the north side of New Guinea, which extending inland about 60 leagues, nearly to tiie
south coast, with M'Cluer Inlet stretching from the west coast nearly to the western
side of this great bay, almost cuts the large island of New Guinea into three islands. Great Bay.
About 5 miles inside Flat Point is Dory Harbour, having two ishmds in the offing, and
a bank of coral rocks fronting the entrance, with the high mountains of Arfak in-
land to the westward. In the great bay there are many islands and shoals, with
soundings in general near its shores, which are intersected by other bays, in several
places. The Geelvink circumnavigated this spacious bay, and watered at its southern
extremity.
MYSORY, or SCHOUTEN ISLAND, bounding the entrance of the Great Bay Mysoryand
on the east side, is high, and about 20 leagues in extent \\. N. ^^ . and E. S. E. ; its "'"^'^''*" ^
• Captain White, in 1824. made it in lat. 0" 15' S., Ion. 132= 3G' E., or 20= 24'W. of Cape St. George, New
Ireland, by chronometers.
630
ISLANDS AND DANGERS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.
northern extremity is in lat. 0° 37' S., and its western part is distant about 20 leagues,
nearly East from Flat Point. Long Island lies between them, a little inside the en-
trance of the bay ; and the Traitor Islands, a large range, projecting from the S. E.
point of Mysory, the innermost of which are surrounded by a reef.
There is a Five Fathoms Bank north of Mysory, extending about 3^ miles
upon the equator ; with the Island Mysory just in sight from the deck bearing South.
Captain Eastwick had soundings 5 fathoms least water on this bank, and made its
extent as stated above.
Jobie.
Supplies.
Stephen
Islands.
Providence
Islands.
Cornwallis
Shoal.
St. David
Islands.
JOBIE is a high island of great extent East and West, with other islands contigu-
ous ; these front Mysory and the Traitor Islands to the southward, and there is a
wide channel between them.
Captain Bristow touched at Jobie, in a southern whaler, some years ago, and he
lay about 14 days, and put a streak of new copper on his ship ; during his stay he, for
mere trifles, procured some poultry, plenty of yams, and all sorts of tropical fruits.
Nevertheless, it is prudent for every ship which may have occasion to stop at any part
of the circuitous coasts of New Guinea to be constantly guarded against the perfidy
of the natives, who are in a state of savage ignorance.
There is a passage leading into the great bay, called the South Passage, betwixt the
east end of Jobie and Geelvink Point opposite on New Guinea : a reef projects from
Geelvink Point, but inside of it there is good anchorage, and regular soundings extend
from thence along the whole of the eastern side of this remarkable bay.
About 24 leagues E. N. E. of Mysory, in lat. 0° 21' 8., lie two small isles, which
Captain Carteret, when he saw them in 1767, named Stephen Islands.
PROVIDENCE ISLANDS, two in number, north-westward of Mysory, and front-
ing the north entrance of the great bay, have a channel about 4 or 5 leagues wide
between them, through which Dampier passed twice. The south-easternmost, called
Great Providence Island, is the larger ; the other being a low sandy isle, covered with
trees, and surrounded by rocks.
This, called Little Providence, or Danger Island, is in lat. 0° 11' S., Ion. 135° 12'
E. ; a coral shoal projects from it soutiiward about half a mile, and stretches to the
north-westward in form of a half-moon, to the distance of 3 or 3^^ leagues from the
island. The Cornwallis got on the edge of this shoal, with the island bearing S. S. E,,
distant 1^ miles, and tacked when the rocks were seen alongside, but there seemed
to be about 8 fathoms water. The form and extent of the shoal were clearly dis-
cerned from the mast-head; the sea broke on the middle of the shoal, and on its
northern extremity, the water appeared like a confused strong rippling. The north-
western extremity of this shoal is in lat. 0° 1' S., Ion. 135° 8^' E. ; and to avoid it,
ships coming from eastward should keep in lat. 0° 10' to 0° 20' N.
These islands are rather out of the track of ships proceeding to or coming from
China by the eastern passage ; but the islands and dangers notv to be described lie
near the common route, and are frequently seen.
ST. DAVID, or FREEWILL ISLANDS (the centre), in lat. 0° 55' N., Ion., by
mean of nine ships' chronometers and lunars, nearly corresponding, 134° 21^' E., form
a close group, four in number. North, South, East, and West Islands, with an islet
between North and East Islands. They were seen by the Warwick in 1761, by the
Swallow in 1769, and recently by several ships. South Island is 3 or 4 miles in
ISLANDS NORTH-WEST OF NEW GUINEA. 631
length, but narrow, and lying in an East and West direction ; they all appear as one
island in some views. They have a level appearance, are covered with tall coco-nut-
trees, may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck, and, although small, are well inha-
bited. These people seem to subsist chiefly on fish and coco-nuts, and will come off
in their canoes to ships that lie to near the islands. The Mangles, January 8th,
1806, passed within half a mile of the reef, on the east side of them, and found it
encircled the group, projecting about a mile from the north and south extremes, but
not so far to the eastward and westward; on the east side of South Island it projects
only about a cable's length, and has no soundings close to. Tiie whole extent of this
group is from lat. 0° 49' N. to lat. 1° 2' ]\., and from Ion. 134° 17' to 134° 30' E.
Captain Tate, of the Cumbrian, made the body of the group in lat. 0° o5' N., Ion.
134° '21^' E., corresponding with the mean of nine siiips' observations, and he made
the eastern island 3° lO' E, from the north-eastern Yowl Island by chronometer.
HELEN SHOAL (the body or south part,) in lat. 2° 50' N., Ion. 131° 40| E., or Helen shoai.
22| miles East of Point Pigot by chronometers, as determined by Captain Seton of
the Helen, April 5th, 1794, is probably the shoal seen by Captain Carteret, of H.M.S.
Swallow, in 17(J7. From the Asia Islands, its southern extremity bears N. by E.,
distant 30 leagues.
The Ganges and Canada, in company, at midnight, September 10th, 1802, got
close to the west side of this shoal ; and must have inevitably got upon it, had not
the moon shone brightly at the time. In wearing round, the Ganges was within twice
her length of the breakers, and the Canada nearly tailed upon them. They stood off
until daylight, then tacked to southward with the wind at W.S.W. ; but finding at
9 A.M. that they could not weather the S. W. extreme of the shoal, they bore away
along its western side to the north-eastward, and found it extended about 15 miles
nearly JN. E. and S. W., and 1 or 2 miles in breadth. It is broadest at the southern
part, where it stretches about East and E. N. E. to a considerable distance, then
turning more northward, forms a curve, with the concave side to tlie north-westward,
and appears to be steep to. The sea generally breaks high upon the dangerous shoal ;
it consists of rocks under and above water, none of them elevated more than 4 or 5
feet from the surface. About 4 miles from the northern extremity there was a dry
sand-bank, with the appearance of a wreck upon it, when these ships passed, and
many pieces of drift wood on the shoal, resembling black rocks. This shoal was also
seen by Captain Hanson, of the Swedish Company's ship Wasa, on his passage to
China in 1804, who made it in lat. 2° 50' N., Ion. 131° 40' E. by chronometers.*
LORD NORTH ISLAND is in lat. 3° 2f' N., Ion. 131° 20' E. by mean of six Lord,North
ships' lunar observations ; but Captain Seton made it 1.3| miles West from Point Pigot
by chronometer, which would place it in Ion. 131° 4^' E.: until it was seen by the
ship Lord North, July 14th, 1782, it seems not to have been known, but it was
afterwards observed by the Raymond, Asia, and Montrose, January 1st, 1789 ; by
Captain Seton, of the Helen, in April, 1794; and it has since been noticed by several
other ships. It is small, low, and woody, about I or 1^ miles in extent E. S. E. and
W. N.W., and seems to have a reef projecting from the east end, but is otherwise
• The Ganges and Canada made the northern extremity of the shoal in lat. 3- 0' N., Ion. ISP 28i' E. by
sun and moon ; the Dorsetshire, February 5th, 1812, saw this shoal, and made it in lat. 2= 53' N., Ion. 13P
52' E. by lunar observation ; the mean of these would give Ion. 13P 40|-' E. for the situation of the shoal,
agreeing with Captain Seton's clironometers from Point Pigot.
Island.
632
PELLEW ISLANDS.
apparently safe lo approach, and may be seen 4 or 4^ leagues from the deck of a
large .ship : there is a remarkable tree on the centre of the island, which is first
discernible, and makes like a sail. This small island is inhabited, and the natives have
canoes, carrying six or eight men, which will sometimes come oft' to ships passing near.
The Helen's chronometer made it bear W. 15 N., distant 13 leagues from the south-
ern extremity of Helen Shoal, and it appears to bear about West from the north end
of that shoal. This ship's longitude of the island, 131° 4^' E., is probably nearest
the truth ; the Dorsetshire, in 1812, made it in lat. 3° 2' N.,lon. 131° 10' £. by lunar
observations.
Merieie. MERIERE, Or MARIERE, is in lat. 4° 19i' N., Ion. 132° 28^' E. by mean of ten
ships' observations and chronometers, which is probably near the truth, as the Asia's
chronometers, in 1805, made it also in Ion. 132° 28' E., measured from Canton ; and
seventeen days after, she made Point Pigot in Ion. 131° 18' E., or 70 miles West of
Meriere by two chronometers agreeing with each other. It was discovered, in 1710,
by the Spaniards, is about 1^ or 2 miles in extent North and South, and three-quarters
of a mile or a mile in breadth ; it is rather higher in the central and southern parts
than at the north end, where there are many coco-nut trees. It may be discerned
about 4 or 4^ leagues from the deck, seems to be clear of danger, and has been fre-
quently seen by English ships, on their route to or from China by the eastern pas-
sage. The inhabitants seem to subsist chiefly on fish, and they sometimes come off to
ships in their canoes, but have nothing to barter except fishing-lines.
St. Andrew
Islands.
Current CURRENT ISLAND, or PULO ANNA, in lat. 4° 38^' N., Ion. 132° 3^' E. by
Island. mean of ten ships' observations and chronometers, bearing from Meriere N. 52° W.,
distant 10^ leagues, appears to be only about half a mile in extent, covered with trees ;
and although very small and low, it is inhabited. It may be seen about 4 leagues from
the deck, and a reef is said to project about a mile from its north and south extremi-
ties. This small isle was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and Princess Augusta,
returning from China in 1761 ; and it is now frequently seen by British ships.
THE ST. ANDREW ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 20' N., Ion. 132° 16' E. by mean of
eight ships' chronometers and observations, or 13 miles East of Current Island by the
Asia's chronometers, are two in number, bearing from Current Island N. 16° E., dis-
tant 14^ leagues ;* they are small, low, and level, covered with trees, and may be dis-
cerned about 4 or 4^ leagues from the deck.' The southernmost, called Codocopuei,
is much larger than the other, which is about 1^ or 2 miles N. N. Eastward, and called
Sonrol. They seem to be connected, and surrounded by a reef, which is said to project
only to a small distance, and is steep to.
Peiiewisiands. THE PELLEW^ PEELOO, or PALAOS ISLANDS, form a chain of islands,
completely encircled by reefs, and extend nearly N. N. E., and S. S. W. about 29
leagues. The islands are not more than 5 leagues wide in any part, but including the
great reef that fronts the western side of the chain at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues,
the extreme breadth in the central part is about 10 leagues, converging greatly towards
each extremity.
* These islands were discovered by the Spaniards in 1710 ; the Ponsborne saw them in 1769, and made
their lat. 5' 22' N. Lieutenant M'Cluer, who resided some years on the Pellew Islands, states that the in-
habitants of St. Andrew Islands go from thence in their canoes to the former islands.
PELLEW ISLANDS. 633
Baubelthouap, forming the north-eastern part of the chain, is much larger than any uaubeitiiouap
of the other islands, being about 8 leagues in length; and on its western side there is ["sland^f^^"*
a high hill, from tiie summit of which Lieutenant M'Cluer saw both the extremes of
the chain.
Most of the other islands are rather low, but cultivated and inhabited. Corror, Corror.
lying close to the southward of Baubelthouap, has many villages scattered over it :
here, Abba Thulle resided about 60 years ago, whose authority was acknowledged by
the inhabitants of the other islands. Urukthapel is the most considerable island to
the southward, and Erakonglies close to the southward of it. Fronting the high, bluff,
east point of Urukthapel, there is a large opening in the reef, with anchorage and good
soundings, in about lat. 7° 16' N., having a small channel to the nortli-westward, with
7 and 8 fathoms, through the middle of the reef inside, betwixt that island and Cor-
ror. When within the opening of the outer reef, another branch of the channel
stretches along the east side of Corror to north-eastward, where is good shelter inside
the reef; and this channel leads round the east and north sides of Corror to the
western point of the island, with soundings in it from 10 to 2-5 fathoms.
Erakong Harbour, on the east side the island of this name, is sheltered by the Erakong
outer reef, the entrance to it being in lat. 7° 13' to 14' N., through an opening of the ^^"'^''O"'"-
reef to the southward of that mentioned above, and having soundings of 7 to 10 fa-
thoms at the entrance, deepening a little inside.
There is another small channel of 8 and 9 fathoms, in lat. 7° 8' N., leading from
the south-eastward close round the north side of the first small island to the south-
ward of Erakong. A ship might ])robabltj, in a case of necessity, with a northerly
wind, proceed into Corror, or Erakong Harbour, where she could be supplied witii
water and refreshments ;* but the survey of tliese islands, made in 1793-4, is not suf-
ficiently minute to afforcl proper directions for sailing into the harbours, and it would
be imprudent to approach them with an S. Easterly or easterly wind, when the reefs
become a lee shore. There are one or two channels through the great reef on the west
side of the islands, navigable for small vessels ; but large ships ought not to ap-
proach them on tiiis side.
Pillilew, about 3 leagues S.W. of Erakong, is a fertile and well-cultivated island, PiiiiieH-.
about 2^ leagues in length, having a range of small isles stretching JNorth and N. E.
belwixt it and Erakong.
The great reef is dry in many places at low water, and begins at the S.W. point of
Pillilew, extending nearly North about 12 leagues ; it then converges to N. E. towards
the northern extremity of the islands. On the eastern side of the chain, the reef seldom
projects above 4 or 5 miles from the shore.
Angour, the S. Westernmost island, is low, about 3 or 4 miles in length N. E. and s"f°"j^,^j^
S.W., having apparently a safe channel, about 4 miles wide, betwixt it and the south " ' "^
point of Pillilew ; these islands are steep to, without soundings. Lieutenant M'Cluer
places a rocky bank of 10 fathoms about U miles West from the S.W. point of Angour.
The Mangles passed within 3 miles of it in 1806, and observed a reef projecting about
• The natives of the Pellew Islands used formerly to be hospitable to Europeans ; but it seems now neces-
sary to (juard against treachery, if any ship touch at these islands, for the Syren whaler, Captain CoHin, March
31st, 1823, was nearly cut off when passing the southernmost island. About 30 large sailing canoes, with
from six to ten men in each, came off to this ship, and about 100 men soon came on board in a friendly man
ner ; but having watched an opportunity when few of the Syren's crew were prepared, they were attacked
suddenly by the islanders, and after desperate fighting the latter were driven from the deck, although not till
most of the ship's crew, 37 in number, were wo'inided, and two of the petty otticers killed.
VOL. 11. 4 M
634 MATELOTA ISLANDS.
half a mile from the low sandy point. In the same year, the Anna, returning from
China, made a tack or two with a westerly wind, to weather the point ; and in passing
it at the distance of a mile, no reef could be perceived, although the surf was beating
high against the shore.
To sail iiom it When a ship is 3 or 4 miles off the west side of Angour, with an easterly wind, a
iiortinvaid. jy ^^, j^ pQ^j-gg ^^jjj carry her clear off the western verge of the great reef, if there be
Tides. no lateral current. Amongst the islands there are regular tides setting East and West,
e.vcept when strong winds counteract them and produce a current; the rise of the tide
is from 6 to 8 feet at full and change of moon.
soutiiein puit The S.W. end of Angour, or southern limit of the Pellew Islands, is in lat. 6° 33^' N.,
I silnds! '"'''' '*^"- ]34°21'E. by mean of eleven ships' observations and chronometers.
The east point of the large island Baubelthouap, forming the eastern limit of the
chain, is in lat. 7° 41' N., Ion. 134°55'E. The northern limit consists of a group of
four small, low isles, about (J leagues distant from the north end of Baubelthouap ;
and Kyangle, the northernmost and largest of these isles, is in lat. 8° 8J'.N., Ion,
134° 50' E. by lunar observations, corresponding with its relative position from the
S.W. extremity of the chain, as shewn by Lieutenant M'Cluer's survey.
The N. Westernmost danger is a large reef partly dry, in lat. 8° 18' N., distant about 4
leagues IN.W. of Kyangle. The Kyangle group is surrounded by a reef, betwixt which
and Kossall, which is a large dry reef to southward, there is a channel about 2 miles
wide, with irregular soundings of 40 to 10 fathoms, over the coral bank. Betwixt the
south end of Kossall Reef and that projecting from the north end of Baubelthouap,
there is another channel, in lat. 7° 56' N., with irregular soundings on the coral bank,
from 10 to 30 fathoms ; and a patch of high breakers on the western edge of the bank,
about 2 leagues to the westward of Kossall. It would not, however, be prudent to
proceed through any of these channels in a large ship until they are fully explored.
Mateiota THE MATELOTAS are the westernmost of the extensive chain of islands called
Islands. Carolinas, which stretch nearly East through the middle of the Pacific Ocean, chiefly
betwixt the parallels of lat. 7° to 10° N. These islands bear from the northern extre-
mity of the Pellew chain E. ^ N., distant about 58 leagues, and are sometimes seen by
ships which keep far to the eastward on their passage to China.
They are small, low, and covered with trees ; the inhabitants come off in their canoes
at times to ships passing near, bringing with them coco-nuts, smoked fish, and pieces
of cloth of their own manufacture. The southernmost island seems safe to approach
on the south side ; but dangerous shoals stretch from it in a northerly and N. Westerly
direction around the other islands, also betwixt it and the two northern islands, which
are connected and surrounded by reefs. With the wind at S. E., the Duckingfield-
Hall got close to the east side of these islands in the night, January 22nd, 1798, and
had soundings from 20 to 35 fathoms, coral rock. She made one or two tacks before
daylight, mostly in soundings of 20 to 30 fathoms, but could not clear the islands,
because the tide or current set strongly to the westward. At 7 a.m. it turned, and set
eastward with strong ripplings ; shortly after, when the southern island bore S. 10° W.,
and the two northern islands bore N. 10° E., and W. byS.^S., the depth decreased
suddenly to 1 1, next cast to 5 fathoms. She then tacked to N.N. E. and immediately
deepened ; afterwards passed over two small patches of 5 fathoms, and rounded the
southernmost island at 1 1| a. m. At noon, observed lat. 8° 15^' N., Ion. 137° 44' E. by
chronometer, the southernmost island bearing north, distant about 4 miles, the other
islands N. N.W. and N. 31° W.
MATELOTA ISLANDS. — YAP ISLAND. 636
The two northern islands bear N. E. f E. and S.W. |W. of each other, and are very
dangerous to approach in the night; for a coral reef projects about 2 leagues northward
of the N. E. island, with high breakers on it in some places. The Washington, Ame-
rican ship, passed on the east side of this reef and the i.slands, November 23rd, 1804,
with a strong westerly wind.
The Althea, bound from China to Bengal, passed also to the eastward of these islands,
July 20th, 180(3, having been carried thus far to the eastward by S.W. winds and
easterly currents ; but if the wind a(hnit, it is best to pass to the westward of them.
By mean of the observations of these ships and their chronometers, the southern- position.
most island is in lat. 8° 21' N., Ion. 137° 4 W E., and the N. Easternmost island in lat.
8° 34^' N., Ion. 137° 44|' E. Admiral Rainier, in H. M. S. Suflblk, passed near
these islands, December loth, 1796, and made the southernmost island in lat.
8° 17'N., Ion. 137° 34' E., and the IN. Easternmost island in lat. 8° 35' N., Ion. 137° 40' E.
by many lunar observations corresponding within a mile of the longitude by chrono-
meters.
YAP, or UNAWB, bearing from the Matelota Islands N. 19° E., distant 21 leagues, vap.
is the westernmost large island of the Carolina Archipelago. Several ships have fallen
in with it, when proceeding by the eastern passage to China, although it lies to the
eastward of the common track.
The south end of this island is very low, rising gradually into hills to the northward,
and in many parts it is luxuriant, abounding with coco-nut trees, but it is not covered
with wood. When first seen, the hills give it the appearance of two or three islands;
and on a near approach, it seems to consist of a group of islands contiguous to each other,
the whole encompassed by a chain of black rocks. The reef lining the southern and
western parts is very dangerous to approach in the night, for it extends in a W. S.W.
direction from the S.W. end of the island, about 2 leagues' distance, is steep to, and
very narrow towards its extremity, witli some of the tops of the black rocks upon it
just appearing above water.
The Exeter with the Hawke and Henry Dundas in company, December 15th, 1793,
saw a fire ahead at 5 a.m., and instantly tacked to southward. Shortly after, at day-
light, Yap Island bore from North to N. E., distant 4 or 5 miles, and breakers on the
reef N.W. by N. about 3 or 4 miles. The wind being westerly, with squalls and rain,
they were employed during this and the following day working round to the west-
ward of the island, which they cleared on tlie ](>th at noon. The Swallow Packet
passed near this island, March 18th, 1801, and the people which came ofl" in canoes
frequently pronounced the word Yap, whence its name. The Halcyon and Venus,
American vessels, bound to Kamschatka and to the N.W. coast of America, saw this
island bearing North at 4 a.m.. May l(3th, 1792. At daylight they steered along the
S.W. side of the island within a quarter and half a mile of the reef, then liove to, for
many canoes that were coming oft', some of which iiad 15 or 10 men in them, and
were exactly similar to the flying Proa of the Marian Islands. The chief articles
brought off by these people were coco-nuts, hooks, and fishing-lines, some flying fish,
tarro, pieces of mat-cloth, and spears. They were in every re.spect like the natives of
the Pellew Islands, stout, and regularly formed, and seemed to understand tiie Pellew
Vocabulary.
The island has a pleasing aspect, having many houses scattered over it, well con-
structed, in the same manner as those of tlie Pellew Islands; and there seems to be a
large village to the S. Eastward of the reef. By mean of the observations of six ships
4 M 2
636
MARIAN OR LADRONE ISLANDS,
Position.
Islands seen
by Captain
Hunter.
Coral bank to
the northward.
by < and chronomeJer, the south end of the island is in lat. 9° 30^' N., Ion. 138° 8'
E., their longitude corresponding- within 2 miles of each other; its northern extremity
is in lat. 9° 40' N.
By these observations, the body of the island seems to be in lat. 9° 35^' N., Ion,
138° 8' E., extending- nearly North and South about 3^ leagues. Some observations
of < taken in the Hawke made it 6^ leagues more to the westward ; but those of
that correct navigator, Captain Lestock Wilson, of the Exeter, exactly corresponding
with others taken in the Swallow, are probably nearest the truth.
The islands seen by Captain John Hunter, July 17th, 1791, returning from Port
Jackson, in the Waezamheydt, were probably no other than Yap, which he places
from lat. 9° 31' to 9° 37' N., Ion. 137° 32' E. ; but as he passed them at the distance
of 7 leagues to the eastward, his longitude may be liable to error ; particularly as it is
uncertain whether or not he got any observations at the time. About 7 leagues N.
by E. a little easterly from the islands, the Waezamheydt passed over a narrow coral
spit extending- nearly North and South, on which she had 16 fathoms water, and saw
the rocks under the bottom, at that time being in lat. 9° 57^ N.
Marian
Islands.
Guam.
Umatac Bay.
Saypan and
Teiiian.
THE MARIAN ISLANDS, called also the Ladrone Islands, lie to the north-
ward of the Carolina Archipelago, and belong to the Spaniards; they extend in a
N. N. E. direction from Guam to Saypan, then North, forming a chain, nearly from
lat. 13° to 21' N., having safe channels between most of them. Guam, or Guahan,
the southernmost and largest of these islands, is about 10 leagues in length N.E. and
S.W., having the port of Apra on the west side, formed betwixt a peninsula and a
large reef that fronts it to the northward. Umatac Bay, at the S. W. part of the island,
also affords shelter with the wind between North and S. E., the anchorage being in
10 to 15 fathoms, sand, off the mouth of the harbour,\vith the fort bearing about N.E.
by E., distant a quarter or half a mile. This bay was surveyed by Admiral Malespina,
who made the fort in lat. 13° 2U' N., Ion. 144° 19f' E.* of Greenwich by astrono-
mical observations. The town is of considerable size, and the Galleons used to touch
here for refreshments, on their passage from Acapulco towards Manila. This island
is moderately elevated, lined by reefs to the southward, with the shoal of Antury
about 3 or 4 leagues off its north end. «
SAYPAN and TENIAN, lying near each other, betwixt lat. 15° and 15V N., the
body of the latter being in lat. 15° 2' N., Ion. 145° 47' E., are of middling height ;
and there is a peak on Saypan, the northernmost of these two islands. They have
anchorage on their west sides ; that of Tenian is in 20 to 35 fathoms, in a small bay
near the south end of the island, but the bottom is rather foul, and the shore fronted
by reefs. The west side of Saypan is also lined by a reef, and the .Spanish plans pro-
ject a reef from the N.VV. part of this island, extending to S. Westward and southward,
until opposite the north end of Tenian. Betwixt the N.W. end of this island and the
reef there is a good channel, with soundings of various depths within the reef, and
anchorage near the western shore of Saypan. These islands abound with limes,
lemons, some cattle ; and there is said to be plenty of wild hogs on Saypan, which ar-
ticles are very renovating to the scorbutic crews of ships that touch here. English
ships sometimes stop at these islands, on their passage from Australia towards Canton ;
although fresh water may be got in Tenian Bay, Saypan seems to be a better island
Monsieur Duperrey, of the French surveying ship Coquille, made it about 10 miles more to the eastward.
MARIAN OR LADRONE ISLANDS. 637
for refreshments, affording also safer anchorage than the former. Bird Ishmd, in lat. other islands.
16° 4' N., Ion. 146° 7' E.,* is the next ishmd to the northward of Saypan, there being
a wide and safe channel between them. Anatajan lies 7 leagues to the N. N.W. of
Bird Island, from whence the northern part of the Marian chain of islands are situated
near each other, and extend about INorth and N. by W. to the islet Pajaros, in lat.
20° 34' N., Ion. 145° 48' £.
ASSUMPTION ISLAND, in lat. 19° 45' N., Ion. 145° 35't E., is about 3 or Assumption
4 miles in length, of moderate height, with coco-nut trees on the west side, where is |'J)f„j!,'."^'^
anchorage in 30 fathoms, black sand, about half a mile off shore ; but the landing is
difficult, and no adequate supply of fresh water for ships to be procured.
THE MANGS are three high rocks in lat. 19° 57' N., bearing {true) N. 27° W.,
distant 5 leagues from Assumption ; Uracas, the northernmost of these islands, is a
little farther northward, in about lat. 20° 20' N. This group of islands is sometimes
considered part of the Marian Islands, being a continuation of the chain. Alamagan
Island, in about lat. 18° 5' N., forms one of the chain, and other islands intervene
between some of those mentioned above.
SULPHUR ISLAND, in lat. 24° 48' N., Ion. 141° 20' E., is small, with steep suiphur
perpendicular cliffs fronting the sea, rising into a high peak at the summit, which may ^*'''"''-
be seen 12 leagues off. It is covered with shrubs and long grass, having a rock close
to its west end, and a reef projecting about half a mile from the N. E. end, with
10 fathoms water within a cable's length of the shore, and 30 fathoms, rocky liottom,
at the distance of half a mile.
This remarkable rock stands by itself in the middle of the ocean, but other small
islands lie several degrees eastward, and others to the northward of it, the situations of
which are not correctly known. There is said to be one or two dangers in the space
betwixt Sulphur Island and the Marian Islands; and from thence westward to the
Bashee Islands there appears to be a reef, in lat. 20° 32' N., Ion. 136° 12' E., seen by
Captain Douglas in 1789, which perhaps maybe that seen by Captain Bishop in 1796,
about 14 leaijues farther to the E. S. Eastward.
"S"^
ABREGOES SHOAL, in lat. 20° 59^ N., Ion. 136° 38' E., is said to be a danger- Abregoes
ous reef, seen by Captain Mears on his returning passage from the N. W. coast of ^^^''^■
America; but its real situation has not been satisfactorily ascertained, and it possibly
may be one of those mentioned above. Captain Bishop saw also a rock in lat. 25°
22' N., Ion. 132° 0' E. ; and Captain Kendrick discovered a low island in lat. 24° 30' Kendrick
N., Ion. 133° 36' E., about 2 leagues in extent.
Island.
THE PACIFIC OCEAN being entered, as directed at the beginning of this sec- Directionsjor
tion, for sliips proceeding out of Dampier Strait, every advantage ought to be after- Dampier°strait
wards embraced to get sufficient easting whilst in a low latitude. The best track to towards china.
effect this is betwixt the parallels of lat. 1° 30' and 3° N., where a S. Easterly current
will usually be experienced in December and January, which has already been de-
scribed in the directions for sailing out by the Gillolo Passage.
* By the observations of the ship Good Hope, in October, 182-2, bound from South America towards
Bengal. Monsieur Duperrey made it in lat. 16° 1' N., Ion. 146° 14' E.
t In Ion. 145° 44' E. by Monsieur Duperrey.
638 PASSAGE FROM DAMPIER STRAIT TOWARDS CHINA,
The proper quantity of easting to be made must depend principally upon the judg-
ment of the navigator, according to prevailing circumstances ; but, as a general rule,
it seems necessary to get into about Ion. 136° E. before the parallels of lat. 3° or 3|°
N. are crossed, if it be intended to pass to the eastward of the Pellew Islands. In
ships which sail indifferently, or are in any way disabled, it is advisable to make suf-
ficient easting with the variable winds in a low latitude, to be enabled to pass east-
ward of the Pellew Islands during the strength of the North-east Monsoon ; but they
ought not to run so far East as to fall in with the Matelota Islands, because spurts of
westerly winds have sometimes been experienced there, both in November and December.
Ships which sail well may approach the southernmost extremity of the Pellew
Islands, and proceed along their western sides, or pass within a moderate distance of
them, which will generally be sufficient to enable them to weather the north end of
Luzon at any period of the North-east Monsoon. But as the current in this season
sets mostly westward, from 10 to 15 miles daily, in the track betwixt the Pellews and
Bashee Islands, with strong N. E. winds and a heavy sea, in December, January,
and part of February, ships passing eastward of the Pellew Islands will be more to
windward, and probably reach the Bashee Islands with greater facility than others
which pass westward of Pellew chain.
In this track, the sea commonly rises prior to a strong gale at N. E. ; but Ty-
foongs, likely to happen near the Head of Luzon and Formosa, give little or no warn-
ing of their approach, except by the fall of the mercury in a marine barometer, which
is the best indicator of these storms ; it is, therefore, prudent for ships passing between
the Pellew Islands and the coast of China to be always in a proper state to encoun-
ter severe weather. From December to May, storms are seldom experienced ; but in
October, November, and December, also in June and July, many ships have been
dismasted in the vicinity of the Babuyan, or Bashee Islands, and some have foun-
dered with their crews to the eastward of Luzon. If a ship happen to be disabled
to the eastward of this island, and nnable to weather its northern extremity, she may
pass to the westward through the Embocadero, and Strait of Manila, then proceed along
the west coast of Luzon to the northward as far as Cape Bajadore.
In proceeding from Dampier Strait late in the season, you have no occasion to
make so much easting as at an earlier period : late in February and in March you may
pass westward of the Pellew Islands with safety, the violence of the North-east Mon-
soon being then on the decline, and the vvinds generally veer to the E. N. Eastward.
Having reached the latitude of the north end of Luzon, you may pass through the
channel between the Babuyans and Bashee Islands, or through any of the safe chan-
nels amongst these islands, as circumstances require. But if early in the season, and
the wind hang at N. Eastward, you may pass round to the northward of the Bashee
Islands, un either side of Gadd Rock, then haul up near the south end of Formosa,
betwixt it and the Yele Rete Rocks, if thought necessary, when the weatiier is settled,
in the daytime. By adopting this track, you will be well to windward on opening
the west side of Formosa, where the winds frequently draw through from northward,
between it and the coast of China, whilst they are prevailing from the N. Eastward
outside the islands. During the night, or with unfavourable weather, when this track
cannot be pursued with safety, it will be prudent to give a good berth to Gadd Rock
and Vele Rete Rocks, by borrowing towards the North Bashee Islands ; and by
whatever channel you may have passed from the Pacific Ocean into the China Sea,
endeavour to fall in with Pedra Branca, or the coast of China near it, attending to
the lead in the night, and then proceed through the Lema Channel into the entrance
of Canton River.
PASSAGE FROM CHINA INTO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 639
The light northerly and batHing airs, with constant S. Easterly or southerly currents,
which are generally experienced after leaving Dampier Strait, render the progress to
the eastward very slow ; and afterwards it is frequently tedious getting northward as
far as the Pellew Islands, because light IN. E. winds and a southerly swell prevail
greatly about the southern limit of the ?s^orth-east Monsoon. "NVhen the latitude of
the southernmost of the Pellew Islands is approached, the N. E. winds generally set
in steadily, and the current changes and sets westward ; but sometimes the regular
North-east Monsoon is not experienced until clear to the northward of those islands.
Whilst making easting in a low latitude, a good look-out is requisite, because there
may probably exist some undiscovered dangers.
PASSAGE FROM CHINA, OUTSIDE THE PHILIPPINE
ISLANDS, AND THROUGH PITT PASSAGE
INTO THE OCEAN.
THE DIRECT PASSAGE from China to Malacca Strait may sometimes be Remarks leia-
performed by a fast-sailing ship against the South-west Monsoon ; but it should not Jrom'ch*na"in
perhaps be attempted unless under particular circumstances, and only in ships bound the south-west
to Bengal, or to the eastern side of that bay ; for vessels are liable to strain and in- ^i°"5°°"-
jure their sails and rigging greatly, in beating down the China Sea, and they may in
general expect to experience a tedious passage.
SHIPS departing from China, late in April or in May, have frequently adopted
the route on the west side the Philippine Islands, particularly when easterly winds pre-
vailed at the time of their departure, because these winds were unfavourable for passing
out into the ocean, between Formosa and Luzon ; nevertheless, the Outer Passage
seems preferable after the middle of May, being more certain than the other, and
ought to be pursued by ships bound to Europe, or to the western part of Hindoostan,
particularly if they do not sail well when close hauled to the wind.
Departing from Canton River, late in May, June, or July, a ship ought to proceed To proceed iiy
by the outer track, to tlie eastward of the Philippine Islands, and through Pitt Pas- p^^pe!^"'
sage, where she w ill probably meet with less embarrassment than by any other route,
and may generally expect better winds and more settled weather. August is rather
late for returning by an eastern passage, a ship leaving Canton River at this time may
adopt the route along the coast of Cochin-Cliina and Cambodia ; but, unless she be a
fast sailer, it will be better not to depart before September, for little advantage can
accrue from sailing so early.*
If the w ind is at South or S.W., and the route on the east side the Philippine Islands
be followed, pass out through the Lema Channel, then haul to southward, in order to
lead out into the Pacific Ocean without tacking ; because the w ind frequently veers to
S. E,, with strong northerly currents adjacent to the Islands situated between Formosa
and Luzon.
* Particular information relative to sailing from China at all times of the year vill be found under the title
" China Sea," where instructions have been given for sailing through that sea.
640 FROM CHINA THROUGH GILLOLO PASSAGE.
The channel betwixt the Babuyan and Bashee Islands should be adopted if the
wind permit, because it is clear of hidden danger, and farther to windward than the
north channel between Formosa and the Bashees; besides, tlie latter is rendered un-
pleasant during- thick weather, or in the night, by the Vele Rete Rocks and Gadd
Hock.
Througiahe HAVING entered the PACIFIC OCEAN, the winds will usually be found
Pacific Ocean. ya,.jaijie^ cliieflv at S. Westward, and a curient setting N. Eastward, or eastward at
times, about 8 or 10 miles daily. Steer S. Easterly to avoid Cape Engano and the
coast of Luzon ; for the wind draws from southward and S. Eastward in the vicinity
of that coast, with a strong current setting along it to the northward in this season,
Avhereby several ships, keeping near the land in June and July, have greatly prolonged
their passage. Care is also requisite not to get too far to the eastward, by tacking
occasionally with the favourable shifts of wind, in order to keep in the fair track. Some
ships have been carried by S.S.W. winds as far East as the Matelota Islands; but
do not pass outside the Pellew Islands if it can be avoided.
In proceeding southward, the fair track is to steer for St. Andrew Islands, and pass
eastward of these. Current Island, Meriere, Lord North Island, and Helen Shoal. If
an easterly current is experienced, it will generally be weak, until the parallel of the
south end of the Pellew Islands is approached ; but in lat. 6° or 5° N., a strong set
eastward may be expected in June, July, and August ; which, from lat, 5° to 2^ N.,
forms a belt, often running at the rate of 30 to 60 miles in 24 hours. Strong westerly
winds sometimes carry ships speedily across this belt of current; but light baffling airs
often predominate, and then they are liable to be set greatly to the eastward, frequently
to Ion. 138° E. ; the Althea was set into Ion. 141° E., when in lat. 4° N. To prevent
loss of time, steer a direct course S. S.W. or South, across this current, to get clear of
it speedily ; for in lat. 2° to \° N., the easterly current will be succeeded by a westerly
set, which in this season generally prevails near the equator.
This current sets West and W. N.W., from 15 to 30, and sometimes 40 miles in 24
hours, adjacent to the coast of New Guinea and near the north side of Waygiou ; but
close into the entrance of Dampier Strait there is a tide or current frequently running-
out to the eastward.
Towards Having passed eastward of St. Andrew Islands, steer southward, keeping in Ion.
Damp.er Strait. ^ 32^0 ^^ j 330 ^ jf ^jjg ^^jj^j permit; and having reached lat. 1° N., a direct course
towards Point Pigot will be proper, or i-ather to make the coast of New Guinea a little
to the eastward of that point, if the passage through Dampier Strait is to be chosen.
It is, however, prudent, not to make the coast of New Guinea far from tiie entrance of
the strait, unless the wind prevail steadily from eastward ; because ships are sometimes
retarded by westerly breezes, and a current running out betwixt Point Pigot and New-
Guinea.
GiiioioPas. THE GILLOLO PASSAGE, being wider, is preferred to Dampier Strait by
^^^°' several navigators, for there is seldom any difficulty in getting through it into the Pitt
Passage, as the winds are often variable; and when they prevail from southward, a
drain of current is frequently found to run through against the wind. If you adopt
this passage, steer from lat. 2° N., nearly direct for the Asia Islands, passing to the
northward of them if the wind permit; or otherwise, betwixt them and the Yowl Is-
lands. You may proceed into the Gillolo Passage on either side of Geby, after passing
the outermost islands. Eye and Syang ; but during unsettled weather, the channel West
FROM CHINA THROUGH DAMPIER STRAIT.
641
of Geby ought to be adopted, being wider than those to the eastward. In proceeding
southward through the Gillolo Passage, keep to tlie eastward, in case of meeting with
a westerly current oft" the south end of Gillolo ; and the Pitt Passage may be entered
by the wide channel formed between Pulo Pisang and the Boo Islands, or by that
formed betwixt Kekik and Pulo Gasses, as circumstances require.
IF DAMPIER STRAIT be chosen, round Point Pigot at 2, 3, or 4 leagues dis- Dampier
tance, as may be convenient, according to the prevailing wind, then steer about W. ^ S.
and W. by S. for King William Island, keeping it bearing about West or \y. i S. There
is no danger in passing betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea in the night ; and the
distance from that point being about 12 leagues to the narrow part of the strait, ships
which pass round Point Pigot in the night have the chance of getting through the
narrowest part of the strait "on the following day, probably without being obliged to
anchor, if the wind or tide be favourable. Steering from Point Pigot westward in the
night, take care not to get to the southward near Battanta Shoal, nor too near the
coast of Waygiou, for the tides run sometimes strong and irregular. When the night
is clear this coast will be visible, and answer as a guide : if you run so far into the
strait as to see King William Island bearing about West, you will be in the fair track,
and when within 3 leagues of it, steer about S.W. by W. for Pigeon Island ; but unless
acquainted, and the night be very favourable, it would be imprudent to approach the
east end of King William Island nearer than 3 or 4 leagues, until daylight. If a ship
be drifted to the southward, into soundings near the shoal off" the east end of Battanta,
she ought instantly to bring up with a light anchor, to wait for daylight : and tins will
also be necessary, if she get upon the bank of anchorage to the eastward of Pigeon
Island.
In daylight, steering from Point Pigot to the westward, Mansfield Island and the
other low island near it will be seen" bearing S. Westward, and Foul Island will be
discerned soon after. These islands and the edge of Vansittart Shoal must have a good
berth, by keeping King William Island about West, and steering towards Pigeon
Island, bearing about W. by S. or W. by S. ^ S. after it is discerned. This island may
be passed on the south side at 2 or 3 miles di'stance, and after Augusta Island is brought
to bear North or J\. by E., you ought to keep within 3 leagues of the Battanta shore,
in proceeding to the S. Westward, to avoid the shoal patches bordering the north side
of the channel to the S.W. and westward of Augusta Island; observing, not to bring
Pigeon Island to the eastward of E.N. E., nor Augusta Island to the eastward of
N. E. by E. ^ E., while they are visible.
Departing from Dampier Strait, work close round the western part of Battanta to To^aiUrom
Cape Mabo, prior to stretching over for Pulo Popa, if you intend to pass on tlie south ^;^^^Zo«fU
side that island ; because, with a S. S. £. wind and N. W. current, which trequently .he^ritt
prevail between them, ships are lial)le to fall to leeward in crossing. When any difh- '"s •
culty appears in weathering Pulo Popa, no time ought to be lost, for the passage
along the north side of it and the contiguous isles is safe, and should be immeduitely
adopted : vou may pass within 2 or 3 miles of the north side of Pulo Popa, and the
isles that pVoject from its west end, then haul S. W. into Pitt Passage, betwixt them
and the Boo Islands.
Having entered the Pitt Passage, the mid-channel track may be preserved, inclin-
ing a little towards the islands which bound it on the south side, in order^to counter-
act any current that may be setting northward. But the currents in the 1 itt I assage,
during the South-east Monsoon, are changeable, although they usually run westward
VOL. II. 4 N
Pas-
642
FROM CHINA THROUGH THE OMBAY PASSAGE.
From Pitt Pas-
sage through
the Ombay
Passage.
From Pitt Pas-
sage to the
westward
through the
Strait of
Salayer.
about 10 to 25 miles daily. The winds, also, vary frequently all round the compass,
betwixt the large islands which form this passage, by which ships are usually enabled
to proceed either northward or southward, during both monsoons.
When a ship has steered westward from Pulo Popa, and reached the opening- be-
tween Ceram and Bouro, she may proceed into the ocean by the Ombay Passage, or
by some of the straits farther westward, as circumstances require.
Bouro to weather Ombay.
through the gut between Manipa and
If ditficulty be apprehended in getting
west end of Bouro then haul close to
generally be able to pass eastward of
THE OMBAY PASSAGE may be pursued during the South-east Monsoon, for
the wind generally prevailing between East and E. S. E. in the Banda Sea will ena-
ble ships passing betwixt Manipa and the east end of
Sometimes a strong southerly wind blows
Bouro, but there is seldom any lee current,
through between them, you may round the
the wind ; and even from hence, you will
Ombay: but a good look-out must be kept for St. Matthew and Velthoen Islands,
because at times there is a strong westerly current. The route into the ocean by the
Ombay Passage has been already mentioned in the sequel of one of the preceding
sections, where directions are given for sailing from China westward of the Philippine
Islands, and through the Molucca Passage.* Ships from Amboina, steering for the
Ombay Passage, ought to be careful not to haul too much to the eastward, on ac-
count of the Turtle and Lucepara Isles, which are dangerous to approach in the night.
If a ship proceeding through the passage be in want of water or provisions, she will
procure supplies by touching at Dilly, or Batto-Gady, on the north coast of Timor ; or
at Copang Bay, at the west end of that island.
The Ombay Passage is the quickest route from the Pitt Passage into the open sea ;
but if the track by Salayer Strait, and from thence through the Straits of Allass or
Sapy, is to be followed, steer from the N. W. part of Bouro about S. W. for the north-
ernmost Token Besseys Island, which bears S. VV. :|; W. from the N. W. end of Bouro,
distant 64 leagues. Jf the wind blow strong from S. E. and a N. W. current be appre-
hended, steer S. W. \ S. from abreast the N. W. end of Bouro, to prevent falling to
leeward in crossing ; taking care not to borrow near St. Matthew Islands, nor to the
eastern side of Token Besseys, during the night.
When it can be conveniently done, a ship ought to fall in with the northernmost
island of Token Besseys in daylight, for some ships, by steering wide of it in the night,
have got close to the N. E. part of Bouton ; and after some delay, working against a
strong S. E. wind and northerly current, were obliged to bear away, and proceeded
through the Strait of Bouton. To make certain, therefore, of weathering the south
end of Bouton, round the northern Token Besseys Island within the distance of 2 or
.3 miles, it being steep to, on the north and west sides, no danger appearing to extend
from it above a mile. Having rounded this island within the distance of a league, you
will be enabled to pass round the south end of Bouton with a leading wind ; from
thence, steer about W. \ N. for Middle Island in the Strait of Salayer, taking care
to give a berth to the Island Cambyna, when passing it in the night. If the north
end of Salayer and the adjacent islands are plainly discerned before dark, a person well
acquainted might run through betwixt Middle Island and South Island, when the night
is clear ; but it would be imprudent for a stranger to run into this strait in the night,
as he might be liable to miss the proper channel, by mistaking one island for another.
* See page 584.
FROM CHINA THROUGH SAPY OR ALLASS STRAIT.
643
From Salayer Strait, if bound to Bengal in the Southerly Monsoon, steer west- F'o-]" s^'ay^
1 ■ 1 • 1 1 i-» -11 0,1 1 ■ 1 /-'J. Strait towards
ward, on either side the Brill Shoal, as most convenient, then so as to pass near L>reat Bengal, or to
Solombo ; thence, steer to give a proper berth to the shoals ofl' Fulo Mancap, and Batavia.
proceed through the Carimata Passage. From hence steer for the north end of Banca,
and through the Strait of Durian, or for the Strait of Singapore, as seems most eligi-
ble. The passage into Malacca Strait will be speedy by either of these routes, and
the latter may be chosen by persons unacquainted, observing to fall in with Pulo Pan-
jang, giving a berth to Geldria Shoal, and passing close round the north side of Bin-
tang, betwixt it and Pedra Branca. By following this route from Salayer Strait, and
through Malacca Strait, a quick passage may be expected to Bengal.
If you intend to touch at Batavia, steer from Great Solombo, along the north coast
of Java, eitiier to the northward or southward of Lubeck and Carimon Java, as ex-
pedient ; but the strongest breezes will be experienced outside these islands. After
leaving Batavia, the route into the open sea, through Sunda Strait, ought to be adopted,
whether ships are bound to Europe, to the western side of Hindoostan, or Bengal;
unless those going to the latter place intend to stop in the Strait of Malacca, and in
such case, they should pass through the Straits of Banca and Durian.
SAPY STRAIT, or the STRAIT OF ALLASS, is usually chosen, when ships
bound to the western parts of Hindoostan, or to Europe, have adopted the passage
through the Strait of Salayer. If you intend to proceed into the open sea by the
Strait of Sapy, after passing along the west side of Salayer and Hog Island, haul to
the southward, in order to counteract a westerly current, which may be expected in
crossing ; endeavour to fall in with the north end of Comodo, then steer for the
western channel betwixt Gilibanta and Goonong-Apee, if in want of water or refresh-
ments ; for the eastern channel betwixt Gilibanta and Comodo is little frequented,
although it appears safe, and is most direct when passing southward in the South-
east Monsoon.
In steering from the west side of Salayer to the southward, give a berth to the outer-
most of the Tonin Islands, of which Mamalakjee, the westernmost, is situated in
lat.6°41'S., Ion. 120° 14' E. The N. W. Schiedam Island, in lat. 7° l'S.,lon. 120° 28'
E., is the south-westernmost of this group of islands, which extend southward from
Salayer, and it has a dangerous reef projecting a great way W. S. Westward from its
S. VV. extremity.
Ships steering from Salayer Strait, toward the Strait of Allass, have no occasion to
borrow near these islands, but they must steer the proper course to avoid the eastern-
most group of Postillions, which bounds the west side of the passage. The south-
easternmost group of these islands appears to consist of six or eight low woody
islands, the largest in the centre, and extending from lat. if 45' S., Ion. 119° 15' E.,
to lat. G° 55' S., Ion. 119° 5' E., measured by chronometer from Bally Town in the
Strait of Allass. As these islands are thought to be surrounded and connected by
dangerous reefs, they ought not to be approached closely, particularly during the night.
Having passed the latitude of this group, steer to make Selonda Island, in lat.
8° 8' S., ion. 117° 44' E. by chronometers ; being moderately high, and flat on the sum-
mit, it may be discerned when the adjoining land of Sumbawa is obscured by haze.
It is small, distant about 1 or IJ leagues from Sumbawa shore, and 2 or 3 leagues east-
ward of Pulo Majo. A current will generally be found in this part, setting daily from
15 to 30 miles westward, in the South-east monsoon; and frequently much stronger
eastward, during the opposite monsoon.
4 N 2
Sapy and
Allass Straits.
Mamalakjee,
N.W. Schie-
dam Island.
Easternmost
Postillions.
Selonda Island.
644
FROM CHINA THROUGH ALLASS STRAIT.
Pulo Majo.
Flat Island.
Sandbuy
Shoals. '
PULO MAJO, or MAYO, fronts the large bay or
gulf
on the north coast of
To sail from
Flat Island
into the Strait
of Allass.
Sumbawa ; its north point is in lat. 8° 7' S., Ion. 117° 31' E., and it is pretty high, about
4 leagues in extent; the coast of Sumbawa, eastward of it, is in about lat. 8° 10' S.
When abreast of Pulo Majo, about 9 or 10 miles distance, a course W. by S. ^ S. will
carry you outside of Flat Island, which lies in lat. 8° 9' S., Ion. 1 17° 25' E., bearing
about W. by N. from the west end of Pulo Majo. Great care is requisite when pass-
ing here in the night, for several ships have nearly got upon Flat Island before it was
perceived ; and it must not be rounded at a great distance, on account of the Sandbuy
Shoals, which are two dangerous sand-banks, with rocks and coral shoals projecting
from them, on which the Alexander struck, and was nearly lost, in 180(j, when steering
eastward from Lombock Strait. This ship made these banks in lat. 7° 42' to 7° 47' S.,
Ion. 117° 25' to 117° 29' E., by chronometers, from Bally Town. The Minerva and
Ardassier, steering out of the Strait of Allass, made these banks at daylight,
January 9th, 1809, bearing N. E. by E. and E. N.E., in the direct course they were
steering.
Captain William Greig passed in the Minto to the nortiiward of these shoals, be-
tween them and the southern islands of Paternosters, and saw one of them, which was
a narrow sand, extending East and West about 2 or 3 miles. When 2^ miles north-
ward of it, Lombock Peak bore S.W. ^S., and Tumbora Mountain, or Mount Aron
on Sumbawa, S. E. | E., which places the sand-bank in lat. 7° 43' S., Ion. 1 1 7° 19^' E.,
by its bearing from Lombock Peak, or in Ion. 1 17° 13|^' E. by its bearing from Mount
Aron.
Captain Warington saw the Sandbuy Shoals, which were two dry sand-banks,
in the ship Mary Ann, July 29th, 1822, in a transit bearing N. N.W'. and S. S.E.
of each other, which he made in lat. 7° 45' S., Ion. 117° 13^' E. by good chronome-
ters.
The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen, April 1st, 1805, with 15 sail of ships under
her convoy, at 8 a.m. saw a sand-bank, about 2 or 3 feet above water, bearing N. ^ W.
about 2 miles distant, at the same time Lombock Peak bore S. 58° W., a high moun-
tain on Sumbawa E. by S., north point of Pulo Majo S. 59° E., centre of Flat Island
S.E. ^ S., the easternmost of the high mountains on theS.W. partof Sumbawa S. ^E.,
off Pulo Majo 4^ or 5 leagues ; and she made this sand-bank in lat. 7° 56' S., Ion.
117° 15^^' E. by chronometers from Batavia.
Besides these dangers mentioned above, there appear to be two other sand-banks
farther eastward, seen by H, M. Ship Baracouta, September 19th, 1810; she was run-
ning at the rate of 8 knots, and saw a sand-bank bearing W. by N., which she made
in lat. 7° 52|' S., Ion. 118°3'E., and shortly after saw another sand-bank in lat.
7° 54' S., Ion. 118° 0' E. ; therefore, if the Baracouta's statement is correct, there exist
four different sand-banks between lat. 7° 42' S. and 7° 56' S., Ion. 117° 13' E. to
118°3'E.
There is a channel betwixt the west end of Pulo Majo and Flat Island, but ships
always pass outside of them.
When abreast of Flat Island, steer S.W. by W. for the entrance of Allass Strait, pre-
serving a moderate distance from the range of low lands that lines the N.W. part of
Sumbawa, which is steep to, until within two-thirds of a cable's length of the reef that
skirts some of them ; soundings are then got of 60 or 50 fathoms. You may steer along
these islands in the night if the weather is clear ; but after running about 40 or 45 miles
S.W. by W. from Flat Island, the narrow part of the strait will be approached, which
is only 5 or 6 miles wide. The small rocky islands adjacent to Lombock shore,
JAVA, NORTH COAST. g4g
which bound the west side of the channel, ouglit to be avoided in the nio-ht, for reefs
project from them on the south and east sides. It would therefore be imprudent to
pass through this narrow part of the strait during the night, unless certain of your
situation, with clear weather, for the tides or current might drift you near the reefs.
Close to these rocky isles and reefs there are soundings, where you may anchor in case
of necessity ; and there is a good channel, near a league wide, betwixt them and the
Lombock Shore, with regular soundings of 12 to 16 fathoms water. After passin"-
Rocky Islands, the strait becomes wide; steer then within a moderate distance of the
Lombock Shore, to Bally Road ; or in working, you may occasionally stand well over
toward the Sumbawa Shore : this strait will be more particularly described in one of
the following sections.
NORTH COAST OF JAVA, AND THE STRAITS TO THE
EASTWARD.
THE NORTH COAST OF JAVA is fronted by regular soundings, with shoal xonii coa^t of
flats extending along it in several places, and shoal patches detached from the shore •'^™-
bank ; but in many parts the coast may be aj)proached to 8, 7, 6, or 5 fathoms, muddy
bottom. There are many towns and small villages along the coast, of which Cheri-
BON, Samarang, Rambang, &c., are places of considerable trade, the circumjacent
country being generally fertile, and abounding in grain.
That part of the coast comprehended between Java Head and Carawang Point, in-
cluding Batavia Bay, has already been described in the chapter which treats of the
south side of Sunda Strait. (See p. 143.)
CARAWANG POINT is in lat. 6° 1' S., and forms tiie N. E. boundary of Ba- caraxv-ang
tavia Bay. If bound to the eastward, steer to pass that point in about lo fathoms, at ^°'"'-
2 or 3 miles distance, which is bold to approach within 1 or 1^ miles. Steer then
about E. by N. to clear Sedary Shoal, lying 10 miles off Sedary Point, which is exten-
sive, and has a small channel of 4 and 5 fathoms between it and the point ; the least
water on it is 3 fathouis, and 10 fathoms close to on the outside. Sedarv Point, in se<iary Point.
lat. 5°59'S., Ion. 107° 27' E., is not quite so woody as Carawang Point; with the low
land well in sight from the deck, you will be sufficiently near the shoal. From the
outer edge of Sedary Shoal, the course is about E. S. E. to Point Pamanoi:kan, in I'oim Pama-
lat. 6° 11' S., Ion. 107° 49' E. ; the coast may be approached to 8 fathoms, and from 10 "•'^''""•
to 14 fathoms is a proper track in the night, to pa.ss within the Woi-iiPRN Castlf, Woerden
Rock, where the ship of this name was lost ; it lies in the stream of 17 fathoms, about c**"*" "°'^'^-
12 or 13 miles N. E. by E.* from Point Pamanoekan: close to its inner edge the
depth is 15^ fathoms, and close to the outer edge 18 fathoms.
The Princess Charlotte grounded on a shoal or rock, apparcut/i/ farther out than
the above danger, and received considerable damage. When aground in 2^ fathoms,
* The Dutch charts place it about N. E. from that point.
646
JAVA, NORTH COAST.
Indramayo
Point.
Pulo Rackit.
Bunikin
Island.
Cheribon
Mountain.
found round the ship only 19 and 20 feet water, at 40 or 50 yards distance, and then
it deepened suddenly. Pamanoekan Point bore from the shoal S. by W. | W., dis-
tant about 14 miles. After lightening the ship she floated off the shoal, steered then
S. by W. 3 miles, and anchored in 19 fathoms, Pamanoekan Point bearing S. S.W.,
and the Woerden Castle Rock plainly visible from the deck bearing S. S.W., distant
H or 2 miles.
"About 8 or 9 miles E. by S. from Point Pamanoekan, and 2i or 3 miles off shore,
there is a Three Fathoms Bank, in the stream of 6| fathoms. Tiie coast from Sedary
to Indramayo Point is low near the sea, with some high land in the interior, and may
be approached safely to 8 fathoms.
INDRAMAYO POINT, in lat. 6° 15' S., Ion. 108° 20' E. by chronometers, is of
moderate height, and woody, and from having a river contiguous, it appears like an
island : there is good anchorage on the west side this point in the easterly monsoon, in
4 or 5 fathoms.
PULO RACKIT, in lat. 5° 56' S., Ion. 108° 22' E., fronts Indramayo Point, and
lies in the stream of 25 fathoms ; it is sometimes called Bumkin Island, but this name
is generally given to the dangerous rocky banks North and N. N. E. of Pulo Rackit,
partly above and partly under water, formed of detached patches of rocks, with deep
water of 20 to 26 fathoms between them.
BUMKIN ISLAND, or OUTER SHOAL, in lat. 5° 47' S., Ion. 108° 23' E. by
chronometers, is formed of white sand in the centre, with black rocks stretching out a
great way at each extremity ; close to it, the depths are from 23 to 26 fathoms, and 4 miles
N.N.E, from it there are 30 fathoms, blue mud . The Volunteer, in October, 1 812, had 22
fathoms, mud, with the shoal bearing from South to S.W. by W. distant 1^ miles from
the nearest part ; a large proa was lying here, probably fishing, the crew of which had
built a hut on the shoal. Between this outer shoal and Pulo Rackit lies the Middle
Patch, or Shoal, with soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms around, and between it and
them. Upon this Middle Patch, the ship Bria de Mer, from Samarang, in October,
1812, got in the night, and a few minutes before striking had 26 fathoms water ; she
lay 18 hours on the shoal, and got off with the loss of her rudder.
If working through the channel between Pulo Rackit and Indramayo Point in the
night, come no nearer the island than 19 or 20 fathoms, nor under 10 fathoms towards
the point.
CHERIBON, or CHERMAI MOUNTAIN, in Ion. 108° 26' S., will be dis-
cernible when in sight of Indramayo Point, and this point must not be sunk to the
northward of W. by N. if a ship is not bound into Cheribon; for if brought to bear
W. N.W. she would get upon the mud-bank of Cheribon, which should not be ap-
proached under 8 or 9 fathoms.
The anchorage at Cheribon, or Ceribon, is N. E. of the fort, in 3^ to 5 fathoms, and
it is sheltered from the North-west Monsoon by a shoal bank that stretches from the
north point of the bay to the eastward. Ships steering for the bay must keep
well to the eastward of the point, and round the bank in 6 or 7 fathoms ; and
having approached the Java shore to 5^ or 5 fathoms, they ought to haul westward for
the road.
From Cheribon to Taggal, or Tegal, the coast is low, but inland the country is
647
mountainous, and Taggal Mountain, in about Ion. 109° 19' E., will be seen bearing Taggai Jioun-
S. E. by S. when off the bight of Cheribon ; it is higher than Cheribon Mountain. If '^'"'
within 4 leagues of the coast of Taggal, a remarkable crooked hill, called Goonong
Gaja, or Elephant Hill, will be seen at the foot of the mountain, considerably to the xaggai
eastward of Taggal, the Flagstaff of the latter being in lat. (f o(y S., Ion. 109° 14' E. flagstaff.
The anchorage here is in 4 to 5^ fathoms, with the fort bearing Soutii or S. by E.,and
it is 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of Cheribon.
'a"-
TAGGAL ROCK, or CARRANG LASAROOK, in lat. 6° 45^' S., lies to the xaggai uock.
north-eastward of Taggal, about 4 miles offshore, in the stream of 9 fathoms ; the sea
sometimes breaks on it ; at other times it is not visible, for Captain Owen, in H.M.S.
Baracouta, August 20th, 1811, ran against it, while keeping a good look-out. When
the rock bore West a third of a mile, the Peak of Taggal Mountain bore S. ^ E.,
Elephant Hill S. 27° E., next high peak to the eastward'of the Elephant S. 50° E.
August 24th, working along siiore within Carrang Lasarook, Captain Owen
observed at noon in lat. 6° 48' S., with Taggal Peak S. 1° E., Elephant Hill S. 30° E.,
Taggal Flagstaff W. S.W., a village S. 45° E., off shore about 2| miles, when the
breakers on Lasarook were seen from aloft bearing North, about 2 miles distant.
To pass within this danger, 6 fathoms is a good depth, and not less than 11 fathoms
to pass it on the outside.
From Taggal the coast lies nearly East to Samarang, and should not be approached
under 14 or 15 fathoms in the night, when about 6 leagues eastward of Taggal, for
nearly fronting Point Pamalang lies Hoogermeer Shoal, from which the Elephant Hoogermeer
Hill is said to bear S. S.W. From hence, 14 to 20 fathoms is a good track in the night, ^''°*'*
to avoid a Three Fathoms Shoal, said to lie off Roebang in 2.3 fathoms water, or 9 or
10 leagues eastward of Pamalang Point; and another shoal in 12 fathoms, off Kandal,
more eastward ; the latter has a channel of 10 to 5 fathoms between it and the Java
shore.
Between Taggal and Samarang, the land is high in the interior, and towards the
latter are the Brothers, two remarkable peaked mountains, the easternmost being far-
ther inland than the other. To the eastward of these stands a mountain by itself,
called Marbaboe or Samarang Hill, bearing S. ^ E. from Samarang Road and samarang.
Flagstaff, the latter being in lat. 6° 57' S., Ion. 110° 25' E.
SAMARANG BAY, bounded on the east side by the high land of Japara, is
directly South from the island of Carimon Java ; the anchorage in 5 or (J fathoms, mud,
about 4 or 5 miles offshore, is in lat. 0° 53' S., with the Flagstaff of Samarang bearing
from South to S. S.E., the high land of Japara N. E. by E., and the western extreme
of Java, West ; or a small ship may anchor in 4^ or 4 fathoms, nearer the shore. Ships
which touch here may procure provision and refreshments ; also at the fort and set-
tlement of Japara, on the west side of the projecting land, that forms the eastern side Japara.
of Samarang Bay, and stretches a great way northward.
The coast about Samarang, being low and forming a deep bight, when off it, the
high land of Japara will be seen bearing about E. by N., appearing like an island, the
course from Samarang Road to Japara Point being about N. N. E.
MANDALIQUE ISLAND, in lat. G° 22' S., ion. ]10°54'E.* by chronometers Mandaiique
Island.
* Captain Ashmore, in 1822, made it in lat. 6° 22^' S., Ion. 110° 57' E. by chronometers.
648
JAVA, NORTH COAST. — SOURABAYA.
from Batavia, fronting Mount Mosia, the next eastward of the high land of Japara, and
near the sea, is a small round island, about 2 or 3 miles oft' the projecting part of the
coast, having o fathoms about H miles off", and is bold to approach ; there is said to be
a passage with 4 fathoms between it and Japara Point. Do not bring this island
northward of W. by N. till 5 leagues past it, to avoid an extensive mud-bank, project-
ing fiom the next point to the eastward. About 9 leagues E. S. E. of the latter point,
Lerang Point, in lat. 6° 35' S., lon. 111° 27^' E., is Lerang Point, having, in lat. 6° 41' S., Lassera
Hill over it ; and between these points, near the east part of the bay, lie the ports of
Lassem. Rkmbang and Lassem, noted for teak timber and ship-building; with the village
.Javvana at the south-western part of the bay.
Rembang. Rembang, in lat. G° 42' S., lon. 111° 19' E., has several small isles and shoals on
both sides the anchorage ; to avoid which, bring the Flagstafl' South, and run into
4 fathoms.
Fiom Lerang Point, the coast is clear of danger eastward to the entrance of Soura-
baya, and may be approached to 6 or 5^ fathoms, or in some places to 4^ flxthoms.
Point Panka. PANKA, or PANCO POINT, in lat. 6° 52' S., lon. 112° 34^' E. by chrono-
meters from Batavia, forming the west side the strait or channel leading into Soura-
coast adjacent, baya, is low and sandy, with a temporary flagstafl' on it. A little westward of it lie
four small remarkable hills ; one called Coffin Hill from its appearance when viewed
from the westward, one like a button, another like a hat, and the longest to the west-
ward like a gunner's quoin.
If you intend to Avait for a pilot to carry your ship into Sourabaya, bring Point
Panka to bear S.W., and anchor in 5 or 4^ fathoms off" the Town House of Zidayo,
where the pilots come from.
Sourabaya.
To sail into
Sourabaya.
SOURABAYA, in lat. 7° 15i' S., lon. 112° 48' E. by chronometer from Batavia,
is a considerable town on the east part of Java, at the south end of Madura Strait, op-
posite the S.W. end of the island of this name. Ships going to this place generally
require pilots to carry them through the strait. The anchorage is about half a mile
northward of the river that runs through the town, with the flagstaff" of the fort bear-
ing S. 2° E., and the village of Grisse W. 30° N. This place abounds with provisions
and refreshments of various kinds, and the Dutch carry on a considerable trade be-
tween it and Batavia and the other ports along the coast.
To sail into Sourabaya,* observe that the northern entrance of the Strait of Madura,
formed between the N.W. end of that island and Point Panka, is about 13 or 14 miles
wide, and the channel leading to Sourabaya is close round Point Panka, all the in-
termediate space between it and Madura being occupied by a mud flat, excepting a
small channel for boats along the Madura shore.
Bring Point Panka to bear South till in 5 fathoms, you will then be about 2^ or
3 miles distant, and near the edge of a rocky spit that projects from the point to the
north-eastward. Keep about the same distance, rounding the point in 4-^ or 5 fathoms,
and when abreast of it, steer S.S. E. till you get Fort Lodowick to bear S.E. f S.,
then steer directly for the fort, and your soundings will be about 3 fathoms at half
flood.
In running up, go to the westward of the fishing stakes, and round the east point of
* These directions are by Captain Arrow, of the Antelope, Bombay cruizer, who says, pilots cannot always
be procured ; but by following these directions, any ship not drawing more than 16 feet water may safely
proceed up to Sourabaya.
JAVA, NORTH COAST.— SOURABAYA. 649
Fort Lodowick at a quarter of a mile distance. With the wind contrary, after getting
Zidayo House to hear S. S.W. i W., never hring Fort Lodowick heyond S. E. to S.E.
hy S., and tack in 2| fathoms on eaci) bank, till you have brought Zidayo House to
bear W. by N., then you will quickly deepen: you have deep water rounding the fort,
but it shoals quickly on the edge of the mud flat, great part of which is dry at low
water. When abreast the east angle of the fort, steer over to the IMadura'side, to
avoid a spit of sand stretching off from the S. E. end of the fort nearly a mile ; from
hence, keep near to the Madura shore, and when you see the fishing stakes, pass to
the westward of them. In working, tack from the Java shore at the first decrease of
the soundings, as the mud flat is steep to on this side; but you may work towards the
Madura side without fear, until you reach its S.W. point, off which lie the Buffalo
Rocks, joined by a sand-bank to the point. You may, however, pass thein within
half a mile, then steer directly for the shipping, and anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms about
half a mile off the mouth of the river.
Captain Arrow observes, that the large house at Zidayo is the Sultan's house, and
its roof is visible above the trees as soon as the latter are seen. Pilots do not come off
unless the signal be made ; and as pirates often lurk among the fisliing proas, great
caution is necessary in sending a boat to the shore. The shoals in the ofting are steep
to, and dangerous ; the Buffaios are flat black rocks, with 5 fathoms water close to
them. On the Java shore, bearing about W. by S. from the Buffaios, there is a point,
to the southward and south-eastward of which, and forming a curve towards the town
of Sourabaya, lies a bank, on which you may stand to 6 or 7 fathoms ; but do not cross
over it, as the water deepens suddenly to 8, 10, and 11 fathoms, where you would be
on the rocks before another cast of the lead could be got.
To sail from Sourabaya through the strait to the north-westward, Captain Eraser capt Fraser-s
gives the following directions : — " Observe, that fishing stakes on either side bound ^'■•'^ctioi.s from
the channel for the first 4 miles; then, if not high water, the Buffaios, two islets or the north '^
rocks, will be seen abreast to the eastward, the outermost seldom covered, outside of •^'"'""^'
which are fishing stakes. On the western side, in the bight between tiie towns of
Grisse and Sourabaya, lie the Pysangs, an extensive shoal, not in the track of ships,
as there is good room outside ; but if it be approached, the water will deepen from
7 fathoms in the fair channel to 10 fathoms on the edge of the shoal, when a ship must
instantly tack, or she will ground on the Pysangs."
" After passing Grisse, keep nearest the stakes on the Madura side, to avoid the shoal
that extends from Grisse and occupies the whole of the western bight, towards which
the bottom is foul and unfit for anchorage. By keeping on the Madura side, and
steering from stakes to stakes, with 7 fathoms water, the wind and tide favourable.
Fort Ludowick on the outermost island from the western side will soon be seen, and
Bankalan pier on the eastern side. The course is N. by E., keeping still towards the
Madura stakes. The spit of soft mud projecting from Fort Ludowick has a beacon
on it, in 2f fathoms : here, the channel begins to contract, and the set of tides is
various and strong. Keep the flagstaft" West, and l*oint Panka N.W., and come no
nearer the fort than with this bearing, or you will be on the spit. Both banks are
steep to the channel, which is scarcely three-quarters of a mile wide ; and if carried
with the tide towards the spit, you will have from 12 to 5 and 3 fathoms, then aground.
From the beacon the flagstafl' bears S.W., and the Regent's U hite Wall at Zidayo
N.W. by W. ^ W., and in passing the beacon, it is usual to anchor a boat N. by W.
from it, in about 3 fathoms. The tide is strong enough to back and fill through, and
at the first of the ebb the water is turbid ; but afterwards this subsides, and the shoal
VOL. II. 4 o
650
JAVA, NORTH COAST. — ^JIADURA ISLAND.
Watering
place.
Pondy.
■water is discernible on either side the channel, but only during the Easterly Monsoon.
Having passed the spit, the fishing stakes will lead you to the first beacon on the star-
board or eastern side; the channel extending nearly N.W. and S. E., beaconed on
both sides. Do not borrow on the Panka side until the first two beacons are passed,
as the bottom is foul and rocky on the western side. The first beacon on the sea bank
stands in '2j fathoms, hard ground, outside of which it is soft mud."
Madura Island. MADURA ISLAND is of an even appearance, and moderately elevated ; its N.W.
point is in lat. 6^ 53' S., Ion. 112° 451' E.^ and the N. E. point in lat. 6° 53' S., Ion.
113° 58^' E. by chronometers from Batavia ; the whole of the north coast, which ex-
tends nearly East and West, is bold to approach, Mith regular soundings of 8 or 10
fathoms within 1 or 2 miles of the shore, in most places; but the east point opposite
Pondy has a reef projecting from it to a considerable distance.
At the N. E. part of the island there appears to be a good watering place, as the
Phoenix, February 12th, 1707, anchored there, in 12^ fathoms, soft ground, with the
extremes of Madura bearing from S. E. ^ S. to W. ^S., and the watering place
S.W. by W. :|: W., distant 4 or 5 miles, which is situated in a sandy bay, at the foot of a
hill having the same bearing : this sandy bay has some rocks at each extremity, but
affords good anchorage, and the water is excellent, easily procured, with plenty of
firewood close to the sea. February 26th, she weighed, having remained from the
12th, and anchored again in 13 fathoms, Madura bearing from W. ^ S. to S. E. ^ E.,
watering place S. f W., nearest shore S. W. ^ W. distant 3 miles, Pondy S. E. 5
leagues, the southern part of it shut in with the east point of Madura.
Pondy, a small and level island, in lat. 7° 1' S., about Ion. 114° 4' E.,* is distant
from the N. E. part of Madura about 4 or 5 miles, having a safe although narrow pas-
sage between them, by keeping the island from three-quarters to 1^ miles distant.
At Pondy, plenty of fowls and sheep may be procured, with bullocks weighing from
4 to 4|^c\vt. at 4^ dollars each ; and about a mile off its eastern side, the anchorage is
good in 10 or 11 fathoms, mud. The channel betwixt it and Gallon is safe, about 3
leagues wide, with soundings from 10 to 24 fathoms.
To the southward of Pondy there are two extensive shoals, the northernmost of
which was seen on with the south end of Gallon bearing E. by S. ^ S., then distant
from the shoal 2 miles, and 4 leagues from Galion ; same time, the other shoal bore
S. S.E.i E. about 1^ miles, Pondy N. E. by N., and Turtle Island, visible from the
deck, S.W. f S. The southernmost of these two shoals is a large sand-bank, and when
on with the south end of Galion, it bears E. i S. In July, 1811, H.M.S. Psyche, after
passing between Pondy and Madura, least water 5 fathoms, passed also to the west-
ward of these shoals at 2 miles distance, then steered S. by W. and passed Turtle
Island at the distance of 2 miles.
If bound to Samanap by the channel between Pondy and Madura, keep within 1 or
14 miles of Pondy to avoid the shoal bank off Madura, then steer S. by W. till abreast
the two shoals which lie South of Pondy ; with this course, 7 fathoms will be the least
water, and you will raise Turtle Island about S. by W. ^ W. or S. S. W. ; this is a small
sandy isle with trees : when abreast the shoals, steer a proper course along the south
side of S. E. Island, keeping in 4 to 5 fathoms until you see the town of Samanap
bearing N. N. W., and anchor in 4 fathoms, about 4 miles from the town.
* Captain Ashmore, in 1822, made Pondy in Ion. 114° 12' 38" E., and the N. E. end of Madura in Ion.
114' 9' 20' E. In 1827 he made the west point of Galion in lat. 7= 5' S., Ion. 114^ 19' E., or 7" 27' 4" East of
Batavia.
Shoals South
of it.
To proceed
into Samanap.
ISLANDS NORTH-EAST OF JAVA. 651
Samanap or Zamanap is a considerable town on the S. E. side of Madura, belong- samanap.
ing to tlie Dutch, Nvhere provisions and refreshments may be procured, the adjacent
country abounding with rice, and teak timber for ship-building. Here the Dutch
build their largest ships for the country trade.
The channel leading into .Samanap Bay is on the south side of S. E. Island, having
Turtle Island at the entrance, which is small, and the large island Nightingale inside;
they are on the south side the common channel. A ship working in may stand Tosaiitothe
towards the islands on the south side to 1.3 or 14 fathoms, and to 8 or 10 fathoms on ""'^•'o"?*-
the opposite side, shoaling gradually towards the entrance of the bay. The anchor-
age is in 4 or 5 fathoms, mud, with the south point of Samanap Bay bearing W. by S. ^
S., the north point N. N. W., the fort N. W, by X., the outer extreme of S. E. Island
East, and Galion E. ^ S., oft' the nearest shore about 2^ miles. To the westward of
Turtle Island, with it bearing East to E. bylN., and the east end of S. E. Island
N. E. by N., there is a shoal, having on it only 2 and 3 feet water.
GALION, or RE.SPONDY ISLAND, S. Eastward of Pondy, is higher and ofcaiion.and
greater extent ; both are well cultivated, having a pleasant appearance, and the com- fs'{{nj7'
mon channel leading to the Strait of Bally is betwixt these islands. There is also a
safe channel with soundings in it. East of Galion, which is bounded on the eastern
side by Great Hog Island and the small adjacent islands. Great Hog Island lies
directly to the eastward of Galion, having several small islands to the northward, and
the Four Brothers farther to the eastward.
THE FOUR BROTHERS, in about lat. 7° 8' S., Ion. 115° 0' E., are merely sand- Four isro.
banks or sunken islands to the westward of Kangelang ; on the north side of them, "'*'^"
at the distance of a cable's length, the depths are 18 and 20 fathoms, sandy bottom.
URK ISLAND, in lat. 7° 15' S., Ion. 115° 13' E. by chronometer from Batavia, Urk island,
is rather low and woody, having a sandy beach around, with a small reef at its S. E.
part, and a rocky ledge projecting half a mile from the west and ^V. N. \\. points;
and from this point the Four Brothers are discernible.
KANGELANG, or CANGAYANG ISLAND, of middling height, and of great Kangeiang.
extent in an East and West direction ; the north end is in lat. (5° 53' .S., Ion. 115° 17|^'
E., and the south end in about lat. 7° 9' S., Ion. 115° 25^ E. by the Dutch frigate
Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers from Batavia, which ship with her convoy, at
anchor under Kangelang, March 21st, 1805, in 24 fathoms, mud, made the observed
lat. 7° 9' S., Ion. 115° 19|^' E., Urk Island bearing S. W. about 10 miles. On the west
side Kangelang lies an island, inside of which there is formed a good harbour, capable
of containing 20 or 30 ships, where Dutch vessels sometimes take shelter in the
North-west Monsoon, when unable to beat up to Batavia in that season. Between
Kangelang and Urk the anchorage is good, over a sandy bottom, 2-3 fathoms close to
Urk, 40 to 45 fathoms in mid-channel, and within 3 cables' lengths of Kangelang,
from 10 to 15 fathoms.
The above-named frigate and convoy, from Batavia to Amboina, passed along the Passage south-
north coast of Java and^Madura, then on the north side the Four Brothers and Urk, g^ng"^ '^''""
between them and Kangelang ; afterwards, along the north coasts of Lorabock, Sum-
bawa, Flores, and Wetter. The Dutch ships from Banda, bound to Batavia in June,
July, and August, also prefer this route to that through the Straits of Salayer.
4 o 2
652
ISLANDS NORTH-EAST OF JAVA.
Antelope
Islands.
North coast of
Kangelang.
Watering
Bay.
Islands and
cliannel at the
east end of
Kangelang.
The Company's cniizer Antelope, Captain Arrow, bound from Sourabaya to Am-
boina, passed to the sontliward of Kangelang, October 2.3rd, 1812, and saw four small
low islands covered with trees, having no soundings near them ; they appeared to be
clear of dangers. By noon observation, when the S. Easternmost of these islands bore
East, he made it in lat. 7° 12^' S., and the central island in lat. 7° 1 1' S., and in Ion.
115° 50' E., or 4° 38' West of Middle Island in Salayer Strait by chronometers; at
the same time, land, thought to be Kangelang, was seen from the mast-head at a great
distance, extending from N. E. to N. W, These islands seem to lie far eastward of
Urk, and at a great distance from the S. Eastern part of Kangelang by the above
bearings, which would make the south coast of the latter farther northward than
placed by the Dutch frigate's observations ; neither do the Dutch place any islands
far distant from the southern coast of Kangelang.
The channel northward of the Four Brothers, and between Urk and the S.W. part
of Kangelang, appears to be safe, and is frequented by the Dutch, as stated above.
Captain Ross, in passing through this channel, could not discern the Four Brothers,
and therefore thinks it wider than usually represented. Captain VVarington, from
Sydney, by Tories Strait, passed between Urk and Kangelang, in the ship Mary Ann,
July 30th, 1822, keeping nearly in mid-channel ; foul ground appeared to project a
considerable distance from the shore of Kangelang in some places. There appears
also to be a safe channel along the north coast of Kangelang, and between the islands
which front its eastern extremity, through which the ship James and Mary passed when
bound from Borneo to England. The following extract from her journal may perhaps
be useful, as the coasts of Kangelang are little known to British navigators.
February 2nd, 1722, saw the north coast of Kangelang, and mistook it for Madura ;
at noon the eastern extreme bore S. E. by E. 4 leagues, having shoaled in the night
suddenly from 42 to 17 fathoms water.
February 3rd, steered along shore E. S. E. and S. E. till 7 p. M., then anchored in 19
fathoms, the northernmost extreme of the land N.W. by W., a small island eastward
S. E. by E. distant about 2 leagues, and our distance off sliore 3 miles. In the morn-
ing, find by several small islands and sands near us, that this is not Madura, but Kan-
gelang or Tanjayang, the easternmost point bearing S. E. ^ E., and two small isles near
that seen at 7 p.m., one bearing S. E. by E. ^ E., a round sandy isle E. by S. ^ S., a long-
low island E. by S., and a small isle or sand appearing above the surface of the water
E. S. E., distant above a mile, besides several others more westerly, seen yesterday. In
a low valley near the sea, found several springs of fresh water, from whence we took
on board 38 tons by the 7th, On the 9th, weighed, and steered N. N.W. out of the
bay, till in 25 fathoms water, but had 5 fathoms on a shoal. With westerly winds,
steered along the coast to the eastward, and saw a village, the chief of which came on
board by invitation ; here we lay two days, and got two or three buflaloes, some fowls,
and a few goats.
On the KJth, 17th, and 18th, kept the boat sounding ahead, among the islands off
the east end of Kangelang, where we found a passage between two islands, which I
call Hopewell Island, and Passage Island. On the 16th, at 3 p.m., when Hopewell
Island bore S. S. E. 3 leagues, a dry sand was bearing E. N. E. about 4 miles. At 7 p.m.
anchored in 3 fathoms, sand and shells, off Passage Island, the east point bearing
E. by N. off shore 2 miles, and the westernmost part of Hopewell Island W. by IN . |^ N.,
and Lombnck high land S.S. E. At 6 a.m. weighed, and had soundings from 5 to 18
fathoms, but the weather becoming squally, anchored again.
February 17th, at 5 A.M.
weighed with the wind at W. N.W.
soundings from 19 to
BALLY STRAIT. 653
35 fathoms. At 8 a.m., the east point of Long Island* bore South, distant 3 leaones ;
at noon, its south point bore W. by N., distant one league, no ground .'^5 fathoms.
February 18th, at 4 p.m., the east point of Long Island bore N. E. by N., and its
west point N.N. W., offshore 4 leagues. AtG p.m. part of KangelangboreN.W.i N.,
distant leagues ; high land of Lombock S. E. by S., distant about 2o leagues. The
westerly winds continued, which carried us clear through the Strait of Lombock,
February 20th.
KALKOON, or TURKY LSLES, have been already mentioned, in the Section Kaikoon
describing the islands and dangers in the Java Sea, (p. 588). These isles are low and is'^"*'^-
small, stretching nearly from Kangelang, North and N. Eastward, to about lat. G^ 10' S.,
having dangerous coral banks projecting from them far out to the eastward. The fleet corai banks.
from China, under convoy of H. M.S. lielliqueux, after passing through Macassar
Strait, made these isles, July r2th, 1801, bearing from N. SS'^W'to W. 10° S., some
of them just in sight from the poop, distant 7 or 8 leagues. Here they got overfalls
from 50 fathoms, mud, suddenly to 7 and 8 fathoms, coral, and the Belliqueux struck
in 4^ fathoms by the lead, and deepened at one cast from 10 to 40 fathoms. At this
time the isles were not visible, but from noon observations taken 3 hours previously,
the ship was in lat. 6° 30^' S,, the Ion. 110° 19' E. by mean of five chronometers, Has-
tings Island supposed to bear S. by E. ^ E. Near the same place, the Dorsetshire saw
the rocks under the bottom, and had 4f fathoms.
HASTINGS ISLAND, in lat. 6° 50' S., Ion. 116°24'E.t by mean of the chrono- Hasting.
meters of the fleet mentioned above, is low, and it is the S. Easternmost of the Kange- '^'^"''
lang group, having a good channel to the eastward, betwixt it and the westernmost Adjoining
Great Pater Nosters, leading to Lombock or Allass Straits. From what has been '^'^''"'"''•
stated, it appears that the Kaikoon Isles ought not to be approached on the east side
in large ships, without great caution. Working southward with a S. E. wind, and
westerly current of 10 or 14 miles in 24 hours, the fleet had generally soundings from soundings.
46 to 58 fathoms on the east side these isles, wiien some of them were visible from the
poop or mast-head. After beating two days, they weathered Hastings Island, July
14th, passed eastward of it at 5 leagues' distance, and anchored at Bally Road, in Allass
Strait, on the following day,
BALLY STRAIT has been mentioned in Volume First of this work, under the Baiiy strait,
head of " Islands to the Southward and South-eastward of Java," &c. ; but it iiere
becomes necessary to describe particularly the dangers in this and the adjacent
straits.
Fleets of piratical proas at times rove about the islands and straits eastward of Java,
rendering great caution necessary, more especially in small ships. A ship from Sou-
rabaya to New South Wales is said to have been cajHured by 10 proas, in 13ally Strait,
in 1834, and to have had all her crew massacred.
Cape Sandana, or Sedana, in about lat. 7° 49' S., bearing nearly South from Galion, cape sandana.
is the extremity of the high land that forms the N,E. end of Java, and bounds the north-
* Called so by the natives.
t Captain Arrow, of the Antelope, passed on tlie south side this island, October 2-lth, 1812, and made it in
Ion. 116' 18' E., or 4° 10' west of Jliddle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometers. Captain Bowman passed
to the north and eastward of it at 5 leagues' distance in the Diana, December 27th, 1812, .and made it in lat,
G° 53' S., Ion. 1 IG^ 14' E., or 9° 22' east of Batavia by chronometers.
654
BALLY STRAIT.
Mynders
Rocks.
To sail into
tlie Strait of
Bally.
Fort Utricli
and anchorage.
Dcptford
Rock.
ern entrance of Bally Strait, on the west and N. VV. sides. Over the point that forms the
cape, stands a high indented table hill, called Monnt Sandana, with each of its extremes
slopino- down, one forming the cape, and tiie other rounding into a bay. Soundings of 40
to (30 fatiioms extend from Gallon Island to this cape, and also to the westward, but
none to the eastward of the cape. Mynders Rocks, about 5 or 6 miles northward of
the nearest land of the cape, consist of three small sand-banks, usually above water, but
covered on high spring tides, and surrounded by rocks, with a reef projecting to the S.E.,
having 60 fathoms within a cable's length of them, at the north and east sides. These
rocks are on with the centre of Table Hill, bearing S. by W. ^ W., on with its eastern
brow S. f W., and on with the eastern extreme of Java bearing S. by E. f E. H. M. S.
Psyche, at noon, observed in lat. 7° 41' S., with these rocks in sight from the deck bearing
N. E. by E. ^ E. about 6 or 7 miles, a remarkable hill on Java South, Cape San-
dana S. E. 7 or 8 miles. There appears to be a shoal projecting from Mynders
Rocks to the westward, for the Valentine having Cape Sandana bearing S. by E. about 4
leagues distant, and Mynders Rocks S. E.^S. about 4 miles, found by her boat 3 fathoms
upon the shoal to the westward, with these rocks bearing E. N. E. and Cape Sandana
S. by E. About mid-way in a direct line from the easternmost point of Cape Sandana
towards Gilboang, lies a 2-fathoms bank near 2 miles off the Java shore, with 20
fathoms water inside, and .30 or 35 fathoms near it to the northward and southward ; the
coast is lined by a reef from the point to the entrance of Bally Strait.
The narrow part of Bally Strait begins about 4 leagues South of the easternmost
point of Cape Sandana, having Gilboang Island on the west side, near Water Point
on Java ; the S. Eastern side is bounded by the N. W. point of Bally, near which, to
the eastward, is Hart Island, lying near this point. There are no soundings near the
reef that projects N. E. and S. W., from Gilboang Island, nor near Hart Island, nor
in the narrow channel that forms the north entrance of the strait, which appears to be
only about a mile wide : therefore, endeavour to keep in mid-channel when passing
through the strait, with the assistance of boats towing ahead if calm ; for it is un-
pleasant, and sometimes dangerous, to approach the points closely, as the tides run
6 knots an hour during the springs, with eddies near the points in the narrow part,
which are liable to horse you on the steep rocky shore of Java. On this account,
ships usually give the preference to the Straits of Lombock, Allass, or Sapy, particu-
larly if coming from the northward.
The narrow channel between Gilboang and Java might be taken in a case of neces-
sity, for the ship William Money passed through it, October 7th, 1833 : — the following
is from her journal. After leaving Fort Utrich, with light airs, passed between Gil-
boang Island and the Java shore ; the current setting us towards the reef on this
shore, anchored in 45 fathoms water. Found Gilboang Island reef projecting a long
way from the N. W. part of that island. Weighed at 8 p.m. with the tide favourable,
and proceeded through this narrow passage between the Java shore and Gilboang
Island. October 9th, anchored at Passurwang, got a pilot, and went through the
south channel to Sourabaya ; least water over the shoal bank -if fathoms.
Bangi Wangi, or Fort LFtrich, is in about lat. 8° 16' S., in a bay on the Java shore,
at the southern part of the narrows; it affords refreshments, and anchorage in 12 or
13 fathoms, soft ground, with the fort bearing West, about a mile or more off shore ;
but care is required to avoid the Deptford Rock, which is directly in the fair way in
entering the bay from northward. The Deptford having grounded on it, December
26th, 1795, in 3 fathoms, found 2f fathoms on its summit, and could perceive several
pieces of the coral break off, as the ship sallied. It is not more than a ship's breadth
BALLY STRAIT. 655
in diameter, shelving down suddenly to G fathoms, with 10 fathoms water within it,
and 14 fathoms outside, at the distance of a ship's length. When on the rock, the red
tiled house or storehouse bore W. S. \V., the first point to southward S. | W., distance
oft' shore about 2 miles, in lat. 8° 14|' S. To avoid this rock, ships should not borrow
under 17 fathoms in coming from northward, until tlie fort is brought to bear about
West, then haul in for the anchorage directly abreast the fort and village.
The volcano mountain on Bally is in lat. 8°24'S., Ion. 115° 24' E. by chronometers, volcano
Balambouang Bay, stretching South 4 or 5 miles inland on the Java side, nearly in ^i"""'"'"-
the middle of the strait, aflbrds water and refreshments ; bullocks may be got, and J^^'^'^'"'"""'"^
fresh water in the adjoining river. Inside the bay, the depths are from 9 to 7 and 6
fathoms, but ships generally anchor off the entrance, in 10 or 12 fathoms, soft ground.
Goonong-Ikan point, forming its eastern extreme, is said to be in lat. 8° 2.3' S., but
the Dutch plans place it farther South. High water at 10^ hours on full and change Tides,
of moon ; rise of tide from G to 8 feet.* From this bay the strait takes a S. E. direc-
tion, then southerly, and is much wider than the northern parts ; the ebb tide generally
inclines towards the Java shore, where is seldom found any safe anchorage; and the
east point of Java being fronted by sunken rocks and bieakers, requires a good berth
in passing out to southward, or in entering the strait from that direction.
Table Point, the southern extremity of the Island Bally, is in lat. 8° 50' S., and
forms the eastern boundary of the south entrance of the strait. The N. E. point of n.e. point
Bally is in lat. 8° 18' S., about Ion. 115° 43' E. by chronometers from Batavia. The °f ^='">"-
variation in 1822 was 1° 12' E. oft' the south entrance of Bally Strait.
TO SAIL through BALLY STRAIT from southward towards Sourabaya. Cap- Directions for
tain D. Thompson gives the following remarks on this route. When the S. E. point of fnd'totwds
Java bears about North, it sometimes appears like an island, the land westwai'd not sourabaya.
being- visible in hazy weather ; and this point should not be approached nearer than
3 miles when sailing into the strait. Being abreast the point at 4 or 5 miles' distance,
Goonong-lkan Point will be seen bearing N. W., and appearing like an island ; it
may be passed at any convenient distance. About 9 or 10 miles North of this point
is the settlement of Bangi-VVangi, having good anchorage in 12 or 14 fiithoms water,
with the flagstaft' bearing about W. by N. ; l)nt ships ought not to go under 12 fathoms,
the bank being steep to. In sailing through the strait from hence, endeavour to keep
in mid-channel, or rather nearest to the Bally shore as you draw to the northward,
and keep Gilboang Island on the larboard hand. After passing about 2 miles east-
ward of Gilboang Island, the course to Cape Sandana is N. ^ E., distant about 5
leagues. If bound to Passurwang or Sourabaya, you may pass between the Cape and
the Mynder Rocks, which lie 5 or G miles N. by W. from Cape Sandana, and may
usually be seen at 3 miles' distance; they extend East and \Yest about half a mile,
but not above 200 or 300 yards from North to South.
From Cape Sandana to Tanjong China, a low sandy point, the course is N. W. by
W., distance about 8 leagues; care is requisite in this track, to avoid the Hecate iiecate shoai.
Shoal, which is very dangerous. H.M.S. Hecate, in May, 1812, sent an officer to
examine it, who found 2^ fathoms, rocks, and on some parts there appeared to be less
water, resembling breakers. When upon the shoal, Tanjong China, or Point Pana-
rukan, bore N. W. by W., the highest peak over it W. S. W., Kali Puti Point, or the
first to the westward of Cape Sandana, E. by S., the high land over the latter E. S. E.
* The stream of flood is said to run northward in the middle of the strait until 12J hours, and the ebb south-
ward till about 7 hours, on full and change of moon.
656
LOMBOCK STRAIT.
Passurwang.
To sail into
Sourabaya
by the south
channel.
Close to the shoal on the inside, there are 10 and 13 fathoms water, distant 3 miles
from the Java shore. When the shoal was first seen, it bore W. N. W. from the ship,
then in 14 fathoms ; and to avoid it, a ship ought not to come under 17 or 18 fathoms
water, unless she intend to pass between it and the coast.
From Taujong China to the Island Katapang the course is West, distance about
17 leagues ; and G or 7 leagues westward of Katapang lies Passurwang, where the
anchorage is in 5 fathoms water, 3 or 4 miles offshore, with the flagstaff bearing from
S. S.W. to S. W. by S. Here pilots are procured for Sourabaya, but ships drawing
more than 15 or 16 feet water ought not to attempt the southern passage into that
port, where there are only 12 and 13 feet, muddy bottom, at low water spring tides.
Captain A. Fraser, of the sliip Lady Hayes, gives the following directions for passing
into the Madura Strait to Sourabaya from southward.
The Lady Hayes, during the night, had 12 and 13 fathoms inside of Katampang,
where she unexpectedly found herself at daylight.
Having Passurwang bearing S. by W., distant 8 miles, and not intending to take a
pilot, steer North, or N. ^ VV., but not more westerly, in order to avoid dangers on the
Java shore, keeping in 12 or 13 fathoms. A smooth conical peak will be observed to
the westward, and when it bears W. by S., you should be in 12 fathoms; when W.S.W.,
in 7i fathoms : — when the depth begins to decrease, steer N. E. by N. for 2 miles,
and if it be less than 6f fathoms, steer N. N. E. ; the peak will soon bear S. W., with
less water, probably 5| fathoms, about 8 miles from the strait. From this position
steer North, and the water will shoal to 3^ fathoms, soft ground, in 3 miles distance, if
in the fair channel. If the bottom be hard, you will be too near the Java shore, but
fiom hence the beacon can be seen that marks the edge of shoal water on the Madura
side; it is made of timber, with a bamboo topmast, and from this position would bear
about N.N.W., distant 5 miles. Steer for it until within 1^ or 2 miles of it, then
edge away about N.W. as the tides may require, passing within half a mile of the
beacon ; afterwards gradually haul up to W. by N. keeping close round the fishing
stakes on the Madura side, where the water deepens to 7 fathoms, soft bottom. Keep
rather to the northward, for by hauling up too soon for tlie shipping, you may get on
a hard bank S. E. of the river's mouth.
The island off Tambay River marked in the charts does not exist, but there is a
reef dry at low water, close to the Java shore ; nor is the rock laid down N. N. E.
from Passurwang known to the pilots, but the courses here given will lead clear of
its site, and also the dangers off Bandigan, which island will not be seen if these direc-
tions are followed. It should be carefully avoided, unless the passage between it and
Madura be entered, which is said to be safe. The Madura side of this gulf is most
favourable for navigating, during the South-east Monsoon, or fair weather season.
Oft Belega there is a bank, which does not extend far out, and may easily be
avoided.
LOMBOCK STRAIT has been described in Volume First of this work, under the
head of" Islands to the Southward and South-eastward of Java," &c. It is, however,
necessary to add a few remarks for the navigation of this strait. The tides or cur-
rents run strong through the middle of the strait, with eddies and no soundings, but
there are a few places of anchorage on each side, where ships might occasionally stop
Carang Assem. and procure refreshments. Carang Assem, on the Bally shore, western side the strait,
has a small stream of fresh water close to the village ; here also bullocks, hogs, and
poultry may be got; the contiguous country is cultivated. Captain Forrest anchored
Lombock
Strait.
directions.
LOMBOCK STRAIT. 657
here in 9 fathoms sandy bottom, about half a mile offshore, with Bally Peak bearing
JN. by E. ; and experienced very little tide in this anchorage, wlien it was running
3 knots a little way out in the offing.
The large and deep bay of Arapannan or Appenam, on the Lombock side the strait, Ampannan
nearly opposite the road of Carang Assem, formed by Tanjong Rumbeeah to the ^*>-
northward, is 3 or 4 miles deep, and of considerable extent. H.IM.S. Psyche touched
here August 3rd, 1811, for which place, Mr. George Dawson, an officer of that ship,
gives the following directions.
On the south side of a high remarkable bluff cape, terminating to the northward Mr. Dawsons
and eastward in a small sugar-loaf peaked hill, are situated tiie villages Sangeegee,
Ampannan, and Tanjong Carrang, fronting a fine level country, with many small
rivers, and abounding with provisions of every kind.
To know this bay, and to sail into it, when coming from northward, observe that
on with Lombock Peak bearing E. ^ S., there is an island with a hill on its S. E. end,
which pass at 3 or 4 leagues' distance, and steer eastward, not approacliing the
main under 6 or 7 miles, until Lombock Peak bears N. E. by E. | E., or Bally Peak
AV. N. W., on account of Ampannan Bar, a ledge of rocks extending from Sangeegee,
at the north side the bay, in a S. S. E. direction, to two small islands on the opposite
side. In the plan of this coast, published by Mr. Dalrymple, 7 fothoms are marked as
the least water on this ledge, but our boats found only 3 fithoms, with Lombock Peak
bearing E. by N., and the northern extremity of the land N. by W. ^ W. : the inner
verge of the ledge appears to be about 3^ miles distant from the shore.
Steering in for Ampannan, with Lombock Peak bearing N.E. byE.^E., the
northern extreme IN.byW., and Ampannan River E. by N., with boats sounding
ahead, we had several casts of 7, 8, and 9 fathoms, coral, then deepened again to 18
fathoms, sand, and shoaled gradually to the shore. We first anchored in 17^ fathoms,
about 3 miles off Ampannan bearing N. E. | E., Sangeegee Village N.N. E., Tan-
jong Carrans S. E. :|^S., Lombock Peak E. byN.f N., extremes of Lombock from
N. N. W. I W. to S. W. by W., and Bally Peak W. N. W. ; but being too far off for the
convenience of watering, weighed and anchored again in 14^ fathoms, fine sand, with
the entrance of Ampannan River bearing East distant 2 miles, Lombock Peak E. by
N.iN., and Bally Peak W. by N. i N. ; from this anchorage, the shoalest part of Anchorage.
the ledge bore W.^S., distant 1 mile.
A ship steering in for the anchorage should bring Lombock Peak to bear N. E.
by E., she may then pass with safety over the ledge, and anchor where most conve-
nient. Should the Peak be obscured by hazy weather, the river of Ampannan being
remarkable at the entrance by an opening in the trees, with huts on both sides, will
answer as a guide ; for this opening kept E. by N. will be a good leading mark. No
tide was perceptible in the road, but the water which descends from the high land runs
constantly out of the river, and the rise of tide is 7 feet, high water at 8 a.m., on full Tides.
and change of moon. Our boats could not enter the river, on account of shoal water,
and a heavy surf on the bar : the landing-place is on the beach at the head of the bay,
about a quarter of a mile northward of the river, where the surf is not so high.
The water from the river, which is always good, not being affected by the flowing of Fresinvater
the tide, may be procured about 100 yards from the beach, by rolling the casks across "''■"•
a neck of land. The entrance of the river is in lat. 8° 33' S. Wood is scarce, all the
land being cultivated ; but provisions may be had from the Captain China-man, at mode- Provisions and
rate prices, viz. fine bullocks from 300 to 400Uj. at G to 8 dollars ; pigs, poultry, sweet '^f'^shments.
potatoes, also pumpkins, oranges, and other tropical fruits, are procured at reasonable
VOL. II. 4 P
658
LOMBOCK STRAIT.
Laboan
Treeang.
Isles off N.W.
point of Lom-
bock.
Tides or
currents.
prices, and sometimes very cheap, besides rice and arrack. A fleet of 10 or 12 ships
mi"ht be well supplied with provisions and refresliments here, if they can remain a few
days. This road seems not to be very safe in the North-west Monsoon, for Captain
Ross, in the Borneo, whilst riding here about 14 days in that season, experienced con-
stant blowing- weather, and was nearly driven on shore.
The trade is carried on by proas of 40 to 80 tons burthen, which go and return with
the monsoons to Java and other parts ; the exports are chiefly rice and slaves ; the lat-
ter procured by war among the different tribes; and the imports, opium and piece-
goods.
The Rajah of this part of the island resides at Carang Assem, about 7 miles in
the interior, but Lombock is said to be governed by three different chiefs, who can
muster 20,000 fighting men, many of whom are trained to use matchlocks ; these they
manufacture themselves. The pargalimo, or general, stated, that the population of the
island exceeded 50,000. The villages have wide streets, with brick buildings for the
principal inhabitants, encircled by w-alls about 15 feet high ; and the other buildings
for the inferior ranks, are large huts surrounded by a wall; the streets are lined by
rows of trees, and these towns or villages have a neat appearance.
Laboan Treeang, or Tring, is a snug bay, and by the description of Captain Ash-
more, who explored it in a Malay proa, in 1804, seems safe. Bally Peak bore from
the bay N.W. by W. f W., north point of Bally N.W. f W., a reef extending some
distance off" shore on with Bally Peak, the houses of Ampannan just in sight. There
is also another bay, with from 9 to 11 fothoras in it, and an island in front of both
sides : going in, there are 20 fathoms about half-way from the island to the main, or a
mile from the latter, bearing N.W. by VV., the Peak of Bally bearing N.W. | W., and
the Peak of Lombock N. E. by E. i E.
Captain Ashmore, in May, 1804, shoaled suddenly from 11 to 4J fathoms, rock, in
crossing over the bar, and tlie boat had 3 fathoms. The water deepened inside to
10 and 11 fathoms, mud, and he anchored in 10 flithoms, sand, with Bally Peak W.
by N. f N., extremes of Ampannan Bay from S.W. J W. to N. by W., the river E.
by S. I S., oft' the town 1|; miles.
There is a high round isle off" the N.W. point of Lombock, with two low isles a
little to the north-eastward; and these isles lie in lat. 8° 13' S., Ion. 115° 59' E. by
chronometers.
At a small distance off the S.W. point of Lombock there is a rock above water;
and several rocky islets front the S.W. point, and western side of Banditti Island, with
a small isle near its N.W. point, which ought to have a proper berth in passing, by
keeping in the middle of the strait. Green Island lies North of Banditti Island,
towards the Bally shore, and is small.
Nearly opposite the south end of Banditti Island, in the low land of Bally, there is
a small harbour, formed by some small islets, called Badong, to which the Buggis
proas resort.
The Schilder Shoal, said to lie to the northward of Lombock, does not exist pro-
bahly, although a good look-out is proper, when passing its assigned position.
The tides or currents seem to be irregular in Lombock Strait; those which run to
the northward greatly prevailing when the winds are southerly, or light and variable.
Ships, therefore, may often get quickly through the strait to the northward, \yhilst
these bound to the southward are liable to great delay. It has been already mentioned
in a preceding section (p. 541), where directions are given for sailing through the
Carimata Passage, that the Minerva, Brunswick, and Chesterfield, were from the
GREAT PATERNOSTERS. 659
15tli to the 30th January, 1794, beating through Lorabock Strait to southward. Of
late years, the preference has generally been given to AUass Strait, particularly in
ships bound southward.
Captain Ashmore went twice through the Western Channel, in the brig Emily,
between the Bally Coast and Banditti Island ; he describes it to be safe, about G or
7 miles wide, with soundings near the Bally shore, in some parts proper for anchorage.
Padang Cove, in lat. 8° .30' S., is small, and formed by reefs. Cassoomba Village
lies S.W. of the latter place, and Carrang Assem 2 or 2^ leagues to the north-east-
ward, all on the Bally shore : as the tides run sometimes 6 knots an liour, with strong
eddies and dangerous ripplings,* vessels are liable to be driven from their anchors, or
to lose them at either of those places.-}"
THE GREAT PATERNOSTERS consist of groups or ranges of islands, mostly Great Pater-
low and woody, extending nearly E. N. E. and W. S.W., about 32 or 35 leagues: ""sters.
many of them being surrounded by reefs, and having shoal patches of coral stretching
a considerable distance to seaward, tliey are seldom closely approached ; consequently,
they are very imperfectly known. The westernmost islands are in about lat. 7° 15' S.,
Ion. 117° E. ; Captain Greig, of the Minto, made the south-westernmost island in lat.
7° 32' S., Ion. 117° 16' E. by lunar observations : the channel betwixt them and Has-
tings Island is about 12 leagues wide. The southernmost island is in lat. 7° 34' S.,
Ion. 117° .30' E., bearing nearly North from the west end of Puio Majo, on the north
coast of Sumbawa, and directly to the northward of the two sand-banks described
under the article Pulo Majo. When Pulo Majo bore from S. S.W. to S. by E. ^ E.,
distant (J leagues, Selonda Island S. S. E. | E., the Ardassier saw the southernmost
island of Great Paternosters bearing N. N.W.^ W., distant about 5^ or 6 leagues.
The easternmost island of Great Paternosters is in about lat. 6° 42' S., Ion. 1 18° 40'
E., which, with the adjoining islands, are surrounded by reefs. When in lat. 7°38' S.,
Ion. 117° 41' E., the Minto saw one of the south-easternmost Paternosters, a rocky
islet, bearing N. N. E., distant 5 miles ; and the Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen
saw two of them, low and woody, which she made in lat. 7° 30' S., Ion. 117° 55' E.
THE POSTILLIONS area large range, of mostly low islands, extending about Postiiuons.
10 leagues nearly S. E. and N.W., with reefs projecting from several of them to a
considerable distance. The north-westernmost islands of this range, in lat. G° 32' S.,
Ion. 118° 48' E., have been mentioned in the section, " Eastern Routes to China by
Pitt Passage," among the Islands and Dangers in the Java Sea (p. 588). Captain
Arrow, in the Antelope, passed on the north side within 7 miles of these islands,
October 29th, 1812, and saw four of them, which were low and woody, lined
with sandy beaches, apparently clear of danger, and no soundings were got in
passing. The north-westernmost island has a small lump in the centre, and this
island he made in lat. 6° 32' S., Ion. 118° 45^' E., or 1° 42^' W. from Middle Island
in Salayer Straits by chronometers. Tiie easternmost limit of the islands, in lat.
G° 45' S.. Ion. 119° 15' E., has been described near the sequel of one of the preceding
* In ]May, 1805, a Dutch vessel of 75 tons burthen, in the middle of Lombock Strait, was thrown on her
beam ends by the strong ripplings, and they were obliged to cut away every thing above deck before she
righted.
t The supercargo of the Emily was assassinated at Cassoomba, in 1801, which shews that the mhabitants
of these places ought not to be trusted.
4 P 2
660
ALLASS STRAIT.
sections, under the head, " Passage from China outside the Philippine Islands, and
through the Pitt Passage into the Ocean."
There is a channel between the Postillions and easternmost islands of Great Pater-
nosters, through which the Pocock and some other ships have passed, in proceeding
from the Strait of Macassar to Sapy Strait. With a steady wind and favourable
weather, it appears to be safe, but is not frequented, being imperfectly known ; and
the islands on each side are said to have dangers lining- them, without any soundings
in the fair channel.
Lombock
Peak.
Aiiass Strait. ALLASS STRAIT, called GILLEESEE by the natives, has been mentioned in
Volume First of this work, where directions are given for entering it from southward ;
but as this strait is more frequented than those described in the last section, particular
instructions for sailing through it, with a brief description of the dangers, may be
useful.
This strait, formed between the east coast of Lombock and the west coast of Sum-
bawa, extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W. about 15 leagues, and is about 5 or 6 miles
wide in the narrowest part. It is preferred to any of the straits East of Java, the tides
being usually moderate, with soundings stretching along the Lombock side, whereby
ships are enabled to anchor when necessary.
The north part of the Island Lombock is high bold land, the extremity projecting
into a point of white appearance, in about lat. 8° 11' S. ; the peak is in lat. 8° 21^' S.,
Ion. 116° 26' E. ; and rises in a pyramidal form to the height of about 8,000 feet*
above the level of the sea, with a large crater at the summit, having formerly been a
volcano. The coast of Lombock that forms the strait is low close to the sea, with
plantations of coco-nut trees at the villages.
At a small distance from the N. E. end of Lombock, and lying parallel to it, are the
Twins, two low woody islands, with apparently a channel for small vessels inside of
them ; they are joined by a reef, and a spit projects from the south end of the southern-
most island, having 6 or 8 fathoms on its extremity.
Rocky Islands. THE ROCKY ISLANDS are three small isles, with a contiguous islet, having reefs
and a sand-bank projecting from their eastern sides to the distance of 1 or 1^ miles;
they are connected by rocks, but may be approached within a small distance on the
west side. Opposite to these there is a group, fronting the Sumbawa shore, called
Timor Yung, or Ten Islands ; the outermost of which are long, low, and flat, having
no soundings at a small distance from them. Between these and Rocky Islands are
soundings of 40 and 50 fathoms towards the west side the channel, decreasing near the
reefs which front the latter. This channel is about 5 or 6 miles wide, and was for-
merly thought to be the only one leading into the strait from the northward ; but the
channel on the west side of Rocky Islands is equally safe, about 2 or 2J miles wide,
between the islands and the Lombock shore, with tolerably regular soundings of 12
to 17 or 18 fathoms, rendering it very convenient for anchoring to stop tide, during con-
trary or light winds.
Directions. A ship proceeding southward through this channel ought to keep at least a mile
from the Lombock shore, after passing between it and Rocky Islands, in order to avoid
the Surat Castle shoal, which is a coral patch of 3 fathoms. It lies a little to the
Adjacent
channels.
* By a cursory trigonometrical admeasurement, in 1796, I made it 8,688 feet high.
September, 1822, made the Peak in Ion. 116° 29' E. by chronometers.
Captain Ashmore, in
ALLASS STRAIT. 661
southward of the point of land that bears about W. by S., from the south extreme of
Rocky Islands, opposite a fresh water creek in the bight to the soutliward of that point :
near it on tiie outside, the soundings are irregular from 7 to 14 fathoms, and there are
10 and 11 fathoms inside, betwixt it and the Lombock shore. By hauling too much
into the biglit, the Surat Castle grounded on this spot, March 4th, 1790 ; but with the
assistance of a fresh breeze of wind, she soon got clear off. Although the channel
along the Lombock shore is safe, by keeping about 1^ or 2 miles from it, there are
overfalls in several places, particularly about 3 or 4 miles S. S.W. of Rocky Islands
the depths are very irregular, from 25 to 10 and 7 fathoms, coral rock, but there is
thought to be no less than 6^ or 7 fathoms water.
Segar, or Seegarra, distant about 3 leagues S.W. of Rocky Islands, is a small village Segar viiuge.
at the south part of the bight mentioned above, having a coral bank fronting it, with
good anchorage to the southward near the Segar shore. This place is said to be supe-
rior to Bally Town for procuring water at all times of the year.
Bally Town, or Loboagee, where ships generally anchor to procure water and re- UaiiyTown.
freshments, I made in lat. 8° 42^' S., Ion. 116° 33' E., by a series of observations of
> * corroborated by chronometers, whilst at anchor in the road, in March, 1796,
corresponding with the observations of several experienced navigators.* The an- Anchorage,
chorage for large ships is in 17 or 15 fathoms, black sand, about H or 2 miles ofl' shore,
with Lombock Peak bearing N. N.W., the southernmost bluff island on the Sumbawa
side of the strait E. S. E., and the next to the northward E. i N. or E. f N. These
islands are the best guide to know when abreast of Bally Town, which, being situated
behind a tope of coco-nut trees, is not easily perceived from the offing. A ship may
occasionally anchor in 12 fathoms abreast the river, but she ought not to go under 10
or 1 1 fathoms.
The town stands on the south side the river, which is fronted by a reef, stretching Reef.
along the shore at the distance of 100 fathoms, and the proper channel through it for
long boats is nearly opposite the river's mouth. Small boats may cross over the reef
to the southward of the town, in fine weather, but on spring tides, during the Southerly
Monsoon, strong sea breezes produce a great surf upon the reef, and then, loaded long
boats can only pass through the proper channel when more than half flood, or near high
water. Here, they anchor inside the reef, at the mouth of the river, and the casks are
filled about 100 yards from the beach, and then floated off to the boats. The water is watering
good, but ought not to be filled when the tide is high, for it is then brackish. Wood "^"'
may be cut on the north side the river, about half a mile up, and floated down the
stream to tiie boats.
In the Northerly Monsoon there is seldom any difficulty in watering at Bally Town;
our pinnaces got out of the river loaded at high water, but there is not sufficient depth
for long boats. During the Southerly Monsoon it is often tedious getting water
off from the shore; for strong southerly sea breezes generally set in at 9 or 10 o'clock Sea breezes,
in the morning, on spring tides, and continue to blow right through the strait until
latein the afternoon, rendering it impossible for loaded boats to get oft" to ships in the road.
The flood sets to the northward and the ebb to the southward, in the road, about Tides.
]i to 2 knots on the springs; high water about 12J hours on full and change of
moon, but nearly 3 hours sooner upon tlie shore, and the rise of tide is 10 or 12 feet.
The stream of tide is strongest on tiie Sumbawa side of tiie strait, where there are no
soundings.
* Captain Bowman, in the Diana, at anchor in lOJ I'atlioms, with the town bearing W. 4° S., distant about
2 miles, observed in lat. 8^ H' 59" S., Ion. 116 31^' E. by chrunumeters I'roni Batavia.
662
ALLASS STRAIT.
PeejowA'illage.
The chief of Bally Town sometimes makes a demand of two muskets as a kind of
port dues from ships which stop for water and refreshments ; but he will generally be
contented with articles of less value, such as a pair of pistols and some powder ; fire-
arms, shot, and coarse cutlery, being the articles they prefer. The inhabitants of this
place and the other villages* have hitherto been considered friendly to English ships,
Refreshments. Supplying bullocks at 8 or 10 dollars each, also goats, poultry, particularly ducks in
great plenty, paddy, rice, pumpkins, sugar-cane, plantains, and other fruits. But it
now appears that great caution is requisite in small ships, if not well armed, when pass-
ing through any of the eastern straits ; for Mr. Eilers, the Netherlands resident at
Biema, on Sumbawa, states that the pirates, who have often visited the shores of Lom-
bock, and plundered the different villages, had, in 1828, driven the inhabitants all
away, and taken possession themselves, and that he understood there were upwards of
100 sail of proas employed in marauding around these coasts.
Peejow Village, in lat. 8° 48' S., about 5 miles southward of Bally Town, in the
bay formed by the S. E. end of Lombock, is said to be a more convenient place for
watering than the former, having a river navigable by boats, where the casks may be
filled without landing them, and supplies be procured in great plenty. If so, the pre-
ference should probably be given to this place ; as being in a bay, with regular sound-
ings towards the shore, the anchorage would probably be more sheltered than Bally
Road.
Captain Ashmore, in 1805, anchored at Peejow, in the Actaeon, in 10 fathoms, black
sand, and afterwards moved farther out into 16 fathoms, blue clay, with the river's
mouth bearing N. W. by W. I W., the town N. W. ^ N., Peak of Lombock N. N. W., off
shore 2f miles. After crossing over the bar of the river, it opens into a basin, in
which were several proas ; fresh water was procured from a well on its eastern side,
but it was obliged to be carried about 15 yards to the boat. In March, 1804, this
place was visited by 60 Lanoon, or pirate proas ; and their depredations, together
with a subsequent eruption of the peak, nearly destroyed the village.
The Sumbawa coast, which forms the east side of the strait, is all high rugged
land close to the sea, and the islands fronting it are steep to. Ships working through
the strait, with steady breezes, may stand over towards these islands, to benefit by
Sumbawa
coast.
Directions for
the'strau.™"^'' the strength of the tide ; but with light batfling winds they should keep in soundings
near the Lombock side, to anchor if necessary, or when the tide is unfavourable. In
Winds. the Southerly Monsoon the wind blows generally strong through the strait from
southward during the day, abating in the evening, and veering a little off the Lom-
bock shore. In the Northerly Monsoon it is variable, and not so strong; for southerly
breezes sometimes prevail at the south entrance of the strait in this season, when the
wind is blowing from northward into the north entrance. The best time to weigh
from Bally Road, when ships are bound southward in the Southerly Monsoon, is early
in the morning, in order to get clear out with the land breeze, before the strong wind
begins to blow into the entrance of the strait, about 9 or 10 a.m.
* Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, was informed, that the villages in Allass Strait, and those contiguous,
are named by the natives as follows, counting from southward. On the Lombock shore, Palaba, Peejow, Lo-
boagee, Seegarra, Lombock, and Soudeeang. The Rajah resides at Mataran, in the interior, near the other side
of the island.
The villages on the Sumbawa side are named Geravee, Tellewang, Satalow, Allass, Laboo-Padee, and Sum-
bawa, the chief town. The inhabitants of these islands have a particular language of their own, and write on
the leaves of the palm tree with an iron style. At Bally Town they have several proas, and send one annually
to Singapore, Malacca, and Penang. Both the islands of Lombock and Sumbawa abound with a hardy breed
of small horses.
SUMBAWA, NORTH COAST. 663
Captain Ashmore anchored at Allass in 37 fathoms, with Lombock Peak bearing
N. W. 1^ N., extremes of Sumbawa from N. by W. to S. by W., the two southernmost
islands'VV. f N. and N, N. W. i \V., the land about the river's mouth E. f N., distant
about one mile.
The low islands lining the N. W. i)art of Sumbawa, called by the natives Timor- Timor- Yung.
Yung (their northern extreme), are in lat. 8° 21' S., Ion. 116° 57' E. ; there are villages
on the easternmost of them. The True Briton and Royal Charlotte were drifted close
to these islands, by an easterly current during a calm, September 13th, 1797, and had
no soundings until within a cable's length of the reef that skirts them. When the
True Briton first got ground 50 fathoms, she anchored with a kedge, and had 30
fathoms under the stern, with the nearest part of the reef bearing S. by E., rather more
than half a cable's length distant, extremes of the low islands from S. by E. ^ E. to
W. by S. ^ S., Eastern extreme of Suml)awa East, and Lombock Peak W. | S. The first
cast the boat had between the ship and reef was 25 fathoms, the next 10, then 5 fathoms,
and suddenly 3 feet near the reef. A deep bay is formed by these islands, the points
of which bear nearly East and West of each other ; but the bottom being coral rock,
renders this part of the coast unsafe to approach, with light airs and easterly cur-
rents. Erom the numerous huts seen, there appeared to be a populous village, pro-
bably Laboo Padee ; but although the natives seemed friendly and desirous of barter-
ing their poultry, &c., there was some reason to think that landing might not be
altogether safe.
Laboo Padee is a village on the N. W. end of Sumbawa, southward of which about Laboo Padce,
1^ or 2 miles, lies Laboo Boot ; but having no articles of trade for Europeans, there is glfot.''''"'''
no inducement to visit them. Captain Ashmore, however, anchored here in 1804,
after having passed among several shoals, and over two patches in 5 fathoms water.
When at anchor in 10 fathoms, sand, observed lat. 8° 24' S., extremes of the bay from
S. W. 1 W. to N. E. 4 N., northern island N. by E., other islands extending to W'.S.W.,
distance offshore one mile. From hence to the Ten Islands it appeared like a canal,
formed by islands and coral reefs, which they were two days in getting through. Their
last anchorage in 19 fathoms, when the boat had 8 fathoms, close to the ship, and
were then drifting fast down on the northernmost of the Ten Islands, was with it
bearing West H miles, northern extreme of Lombock N. W. ^ W.
THE NORTH COAST OF SUMBAWA is indented with several deep bays, and
is fronted in the distance by the group of islands called the Paternosters, and by other
islands near the shore.
Sumbawa Bay is near the N. W. part of the island, to the eastward of the islands that Sumbawa Bay.
line this part of the coast, and to the S. Westward of Pulo Majo, or nearly South
from Flat Island: the bay is large, open to the North and N. W., with reefs pro-
jecting from the land on each side, and a good harbour stretching inland, be-
tween the reefs at the West side of the entrance. The soundings decrease quickly
from 40 to 20 or 15 fathoms, near the shore at the bottom of the bay, or S. Eastern
part, where the town and river of Sumbawa are situated in about lat. 8° 27' S., Ion, Town and
117° 24' E. The Nonsuch, from Bengal, anchored here in April, 17.91, but this place """^
is seldom visited by English shijjs. To the eastward of Sumbawa Bay there is a
deep gulf, ofi'the entrance to which are the islands called Flat Island, Pulo Majo, and
Selonda. Between the two former and the western entrance point of the gulf is the
Strait of Sallee, and on the eastern entrance point, near Selonda Island, is the remark-
nver.
664
SAPY STRAIT.
Tumbora
Mountain.
Bima Bay.
Pulo Cam-
bing.
Variation.
Tides.
able Volcanic Mountain Tumbora,* or Mount Aron. Tumbora is in lat. 8° 9' S., Ion.
117° 43' E. by chronometers from Batavia. This great gulf, or bay, is not frequented
by ships.
Bima, or Biema Bay, a narrow arm of the sea, near the N. E. end of Sumbawa,
stretches southward 7 or 8 leagues into the island, with soundings of 60 or 80 fathoms at
the entrance, 2 or 3 miles inside of which the bay narrows, and has on each shore a
native fort; the depths at this part are from 34 to 30 fathoms, decreasing to 20 and
15 fathoms near the town and the mud fort of Bima, which lie on the eastern shore,
and where the Dutch have a resident. Rugged Point, the eastern entrance point, is
in lat. 8° ll'S., Ion. 118°51'E. ; and Rocky Point, the western entrance point, in
lat. 8° 8' S., Ion. 118°36'E.
The Maria Reygersbergen frigate, April 6th, 1805, anchored in Bima Bay in 26
fathoms, black sand, the East point of the bay bearing N. E. by N., the N. W. point
N.W. by W. i W., the Battery S.W. by W. |W., watering-place W. by S., and observed
in lat. 8° 231' g.^ ion. 118° 44' E. from Batavia by chronometers.
Pulo Cambing, or Goat Island, lying nearly opposite Bima Fort, and between
Badjo Baroo and Badjo Lamo, on the western side, being tolerably high, is seen from
outside the entrance ; the north point of Pulo Cambing is in lat. 8° 7' S., Ion.
118° 46' 18'*' E. by 41 sets of lunar observations, and 118° 46' 45" E. by chronometers,
or 4° 42' 26" West of S. W. end of Timor. This position was fixed by Captain S. Ash-
more, who touched here in September, 1828, and anchored in 6 fathoms, mud, with
the north end of Pulo Cambing N. 79° W., Fort Flagstaff S. 79° E., East point of
entrance N. 20° W., distant from low water mark a cable's length, and from Pulo Cam-
bing 856 fathoms, by measured angles of the height of vessel's mast as a base. Variation
0° 7' West in 1828. High water at noon on full and change of moon. Rise of tide 6 feet.
Captain Ross, of the Borneo, who visited this place, states the west side of the en-
trance to be safe to approach ; the proper anchorage off the town of Bima being in
from 12 to 6 fathoms, to the E. N. E. of Pulo Cambing.
sapy Strait. SAPY STRAIT, fomicd betwixt the east end of Sumbawa and the west side of
Comodo, or Rat Island, is considered safe, and was formerly frequented by the Com-
pany's ships ; but it is not so convenient nor so spacious as Allass Strait, for the tides
are rapid in the narrow part, where some rocky islets separate the strait into different
small channels. The northern part is divided into two principal channels by Gilibanta
Island, which is of considerable size, having a peak near the centre, and there are
some small islands in the eastern channel, betwixt it and Comodo. Brief directions
for approaching this strait from the southward have been given in Volume First of this
work, but a particular description now becomes necessary.
* A tremendous eruption of this mountain, exceeding any thing on record of the same nature, took place
April llth, 1815, the effects of which were felt at Sourabaya on Java, at Maccassar, Amboina, and said to have
reached Batavia and Banca. On that day, April llth, the Company's ship Prince Regent, bound from Am-
boina to England, was off the Island Rotto, about 340 miles from Tumbora IMountain ; heard a noise like guns
in the night, which they thought was from volcanic eruption, and shortly afterwards the sky became obscured,
accompanied by a heavy fall of dust at 10 a.m. on the following morning, and many land birds about, and on
the rigging. The dust continued falling till the 14th, then 189 miles to the westward of the place where it
was first seen, but not so heavy as on the two preceding days. The dust or ashes of this eruption spread far
in every direction, reaching to Sourabaya, and great quantities fell at Bangi Wangi in Bally Strait. The Island
Sumbawa suffered dreadfully, whole towns, villages, population, and cattle having been destroyed by tills un-
paralleled phenomenon.
SAPY STRAIT. 665
The eastern channel is little frequented, being the leeward side of the strait iu the
Westerly Monsoon, nearly destitute of soundings, and Comodo being- high, steep land,
with the ebb tide setting towards its steep rocky coast. The route through is never-
theless shorter than that by the other channel to the westward, and appears to be safe :
it niigiit be adopted occasionally, when ships are not in want of water, and when
bound out to southward, during the South-east Monsoon ; in all other cases, the
western channel between Gilibanta and Suuibawa seems preferable.
Goonong Apee, called Table Point, distant about 3 or 4 miles from tlie N. E. point Coonong
of Sunibawa, and bounding the north entrance of the strait on the west side, is high, and '^'"^*'
formed by a large mountain, the summit of which terminates in two high peal:s, one to
the S. Eastward, the other to the northward. The high, sharp lava peaii, on the east
part of the island, generally appears double, and is in lat. 8° ll'S., Ion. 119° 5' E. by
mean of many good chronometers.* Betwixt this island and Gilibanta, and a con-
siderable way southward, the strait is wide and clear, until it becomes contracted
by the islands eastward of Sapy Bay. There is a safe passage either to the north-
"ward or southward of Goonong Apee.
Sapy Bay, formed by the projecting S. E. part of Sumbawa, is protected Ijy Middle Sapy Bay.
Island, which stretches across the entrance, and between which and the nortiiern shore
is the usual passage into the bay. There is a small rocky island oft' the west end of
Middle Island and another oft' its S. W. point. A coral flat lines the north side of
Sapy Bay, but the Middle Island side is safe to approach : the soundings decrease
regularly from 26 or 28 fathoms at the entrance, to 17 or 18 fathoms in the upper part
of the bay, about half a mile below rocky island. The bay here is about \^ miles
wide, where ships may occasionally anchor, and procure supplies of buflTaloes, goats, Anchorage,
fowls, sweet potatoes, coco-nuts, &c., from Sapy Town, situated by the side of a creek
on the southern shore of the bay. The natives will barter these articles for tire-arms,
coarse cutlery, red and blue handkerchiefs, and empty bottles ; but single ships ought
to be guarded against any treachery from these people, particularly if they anchor far
inside, and are not well armed. Ships generally anchor in 24 or 25 fathoms at the
mouth of the bay.
Sinlodo Island lies to the eastward of Middle Island, and off" its N. E. point is the
islet called Booroosa Caper, with its two contiguous rocks. Matacote is a small
peaked island, about 4 or 5 miles N. E. of Sintodo, having to the northward of it several
rocks, sometimes called little Matacote, and others to the north-westward, called Middle
and Black Rocks. Low Rocks lie about 4 miles N.^ V/. from Matacote, and .'3 miles
S. W. of the south point of Gilibanta ; they are even with the water's edge. Matacote
is in one with Goonong Apee Peak, bearing N. 26° VV. The track eastward of
Matacote is followed at times, but the passage to the westward between tiie Black
Rocks and Booroosa Caper is preferable ; for by keeping along the western side of
the strait, in coming from the northward, a ship is enabled to anchor under Sintodo
during the flood tide, from whence she can weigh with the tirst of the ebb, and work
out of the strait; and aship coming from thesouthward, by hauling close round Sintodo,
* The longitiule of Goonong Apee Peak seems to be well established ; Mr. Brown, chief supercargo to
the Company at Canton, made it in Ion. 1 19° 4.' E., and 12° 13' West of Point Pigot by three chronome-
ters, or in Ion. 119' 3' E. Captain Torin, of tiie Coiitts, made it also in 119 ,5' E. by chronometers from St.
Paul and from Point Pigot, in 1800. Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1796, made it in Ion. 119" 6'
East, measured from Middle Island in Salayer Straits ; and other navigators have made it nearly in the same
longitude, by chronometers. The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers made it in Ion.
1 Ib^ 59' E., measured from Batavia.
VOL. II. 4 Q
666 SAPy STRAIT.
will preserve the weather shore, avoid the low rocks, and get sooner into anchorage.
Camara Island lies near the shore about 5 miles to the southward of Sintodo, forming
the western side of the southern entrance of the Strait, its eastern side being the S.W.
point of Commodo, which has an islet off it.
Reesand Bri. Rees Bay and Britannia Bay are formed by the projections of the Sumbawa shore,
tanma Bays. ^^ the northward of Sapy Bay, at either of which, ships may procure wood and water.
The watering-place in the cove of Rees Bay bears from Booroosa Caper VV. ^ N. ;
but the best anchorage is in 20 fathoms, mud and sand, with it bearing about E. ^ S.,
to avoid the shoals inside, and along the north side of the bay. The soutiiern part of
this bay is clear of danger; but there is a bank of 6^ fathoms, sand and shells, at the
north part, with 18 and 19 fathoms, mud and sand, all around ; and inside there is a
coral spot, having on it only 10 or 11 feet water.
The Watering Pond in Britannia Bay, bearing from Booroosa Caper W. 29'^ N., is
about 20 yards from high-water mark, and small casks, which can be carried by two
men, are best for watering at any of these bays. As the soundings are irregular, with
rocky bottom in the middle of this bay, a ship intending to water here should anchor
in 25 fathoms, about a mile off its northern point ; for a rocky shoal stretches from the
southern point of the bay nearly to Island Point, with some parts of it almost 2 miles
off shore. As the points on this part of Sumbawa have small spits projecting from
them, and the bottom being generally hard sand northward of Island Point, a bower
anchor is required to secure a ship here in the Westerly Monsoon.
Soundings. There are no soundings, unless very deep, near Gilibanta ; the outer verge of the bank,
where are from 40 to 50 fathoms, stretches nearly in a direct line from Booroosa Caper
to Goonong Apee, decreasing pretty regularly to 20 fathoms in most parts, from half
to a quarter of a mile off Sumbawa shore. No soundings are got in the south part of
the strait. South of Matacote ; but within half a cable's length of it there are 20 fathoms,
and 25 fathoms between it and the low rocks adjacent, deepening to the northward.
Tides. Hereabout, the bottom is all rocky, with overfalls ; and rapid tides setting past Mata-
cote 4 and 5 knots per hour during the springs, produce strong ripplings resembling
breakers, which are alarming to strangers, and the eddies may sometimes render ships
ungovernable. As the Low Rocks are nearly even with the water's edge, the track
between them and Matacote is not so safe as that betwixt the Black Rocks and Boo-
roosa Caper, by keeping near Sintodo, and rounding its eastern part about the distance
of a mile ; for some ships have been drifted nearly on the rocks, by the rapid tides.*
Although the tides set rapidly through the middle of the strait, the flood to the north-
ward and the ebb to the southward, they become much weaker within the verge of
soundings near the north-eastern part of Sumbawa, and there is very little tide in the
* The Northumberland, bound to China, rounded Matacote very closely, with a spring flood and brisk N.W.
wind, in February, 1783 ; when the low rocks were seen from the mast-head, she bore up against the tide, and
with difficulty cleared them about the distance of a cable's length. Returning from China in September, 1796,
the Britannia, with a fleet of 10 sail, was passing Matacote about a mile to leeward, with a southerly wind and
strong ebb tide ; the helm was then put up, and the wind brought on the quarter ; but the ship not stemming
the tide, and judging by its rapidity that there was a clear channel, she passed betwixt the middle rock and
Matacote. Two ships of the fleet passed eastward of Matacote, but all the others went between the Black
Rocks and Booroosa Caper. The Cornwallis, in August, 1796, bound to the southward, found the tide setting
strong to S. E., on her approach to the westernmost rocks; and after tacking within 100 yards of them, she
stood S. by W. close to a range of breaking water, which extends 21 miles southward of the rocks. This seems
to have been only a strong rippling occasioned by the rapid tide, which they apprehended might be a reef;
and seeing deep water to southward, they hauled in for it, worked close round the N. E. point of Sintodo, with a
very strong gale at S. E., and passed the eastern rock ofl" Camara Island, about the distance of a cable's length.
FLORES ISLAND. 667
bays. It is high water in Britannia and in Water Bay, about 1 hour on full and change
of moon, and the rise of tide is said to be 11 or 12 feet.
The winds are variable in Sapy Strait, forming a kind of land and sea breezes, those winds.
from westward prevailing in the Westerly Monsoon ; and during the opposite season,
strong breezes blow into the strait from southward great part of the day.
Ships bound northward, after passing along the western side of Sapy Strait, should Tosaiithroupi.
borrow towards the east side of Goonong Apee, which is bold to approach. If the and\ow™ds
route through Salayer Straits is to be pursued, care must be taken to keep well to the strait of
windward in crossing over for Salayer; because a strong easterly current generally
prevails in the Westerly Monsoon, when the wind blows with much strength. From
this cause, several ships have fallen to leeward of the islands fronting the south end
of Salayer, at different times, and were obliged to pass along the east side of that
island ; whilst others have steered eastward on the north side of Flores, which is pre-
ferable.
Ships steering from Salayer Straits towards the Strait of Sapy in the Southerly Mon-
soon ought to endeavour to fall in with the N. E. point of Comodo, situated in about
lat. 8° 22' S., and 3-2i miles East of Goonong Apee Peak by chronometers.
MANGERYE STRAIT, formed between Comodo and Flores Islands, is 7 or 8 Mangerye
leagues in length, and not frequented, for the clusters of islands with which it is
studded render it an intricate navigation. The S.W. point of Flores, in about lat.
8° 50' S., forms the eastern boundary of this strait in coming from soutliward ; and
Aligator Bay is 4 or 5 miles north-west of that point, being only about a quarter of a Aiigator Bay.
mile wide, with soundings of 50 fathoms at the entrance, decreasing inside to 20 and
15 fathoms, mostly sand and coral. Mr. Dalrymple anchored here, in the Cuddalore
schooner, in 1761, and found fresh water in the cove round the bluff point that forms
the east side the bay. The cove called Mangrove Harbour is about 1^ miles north- Man<^ove
ward of Aligator Bay, being a quarter of a mile wide at the entrance, with soundings ^^' ""''
of 17 to 12 fathoms, near the southern shore, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms inside.
Here, it is about an eighth of a mile wide, and there is a fresh water stream at the N.E.
extreme. Close to the entrance of this cove lies an islet, contiguous to a Saddle Island ;
and about 2 miles outside is West Island, having a peak on it : there is a coral shoal
of one fathom inside this island, with oO and 40 fathoms water between it and the shore
of Man"erve.
'&^
FLORES, called also ENDE, or MANGERYE, is an extensive islaml, being Fiores uund.
about 70 leagues in length East and West, and 14 or 15 leagues broad in some parts.
The north coast runs in a general East and West direction, curving to the north-
ward towards the eastern end, near which is the promontory called Flores Head, or
Iron Cape.
Flores Head is in about lat. 8° 5' S., Ion. 12.3^ 2' E. by the Castlereagh's observa- Flores Hemi.
tions,* and is high, bold land ; it bounds the west side of the northern approach to the
Flores Strait. This cape is about 11 or 12 leagues East of Rusa Linguete ; the Cas-
tlereagh, from having the island last mentioned bearing North at 2 a.m., distant about
2 leagues, steered N~. E. f E. IG miles to daylii;lit, the Island Husa Linguete then bore
W. by S. i S., and Flores Head E. ^ S.
• The Sibbald's chronometer placed it in about Ion. 122= 48' E., and the frigate Maria Reysersbergen made
it in Ion. 122° 46' E. ; but their observations appear to be too much westerly ; the mean of the whole, 122^ 52' E.,
is probably near its true longitude.
4 t( 2
G68
SANDALWOOD ISLAND.
Soutli coast.
April 20th, 1816, in the Sibbald, at noon, observed lat. 7° 47' S., Ion. 122° 50' E. by
chronometers, Flores Head, the centre, bearing S. ^ W., Lobetobie Peak S. E. by S.,
Sebrao Peak S. E. ^ E., and Pulo Comba E. i N. ~
From the S.W . point, near Aligator Bay and the entrance of Mangerye Strait, the
south coast stretches East and E. by S. to about Ion. 121° 30' E., the southernmost part
of the island. The coast from hence stretches East, then E. by N. to the Volcano
of Lobetobie, which stands near the S. E. point of the island. This coast is steep to,
no soundings being found, except in some of the bays near the shore; and there ap-
pear to be no dangers projecting far out. Tower Island, fronting the coast at a small
distance, lies about 12 leagues to the eastward of the S.W. point of Flores, and rises
almost perpendicularly from the centre in a high peak. Eastward of this island about
15 leagues there is a high volcanic mountain in the vicinity of the coast, and a remark-
able peak about 8 or 9 leagues westward of the S. E. extremity of Flores.
Portof Ende. Endc, situatcd near the middle of the south coast, although little known, is said to
be the principal port of the island, capable of holding any number of ships in safety.
It was taken possession of by a colony of Buggese, some years ago, who have revolted
against the European authorities, and decline trading with Copang. This is the only
safe harbour known on the south sides of the islands between the coast of Java and
Ombay.
The channel betwixt Sandalwood Island and the south coast of Flores is about 10
or 12 leagues wide, and clear of danger.
Sandalwood
Island.
Padewawy
Bay.
SANDALWOOD ISLAND, or JEENDANA, has been partly described in
Volume First of this work; but a farther description is necessary, particularly of the
bay near the east end of the island. The eastern extremity of this island is in lat.
10° 0' S., Ion. 120° 45' E. by mean of chronometers, and lunar observations taken in
several ships ;* and it is thought to be bold and safe to approach in this part.
The channel formed betwixt its eastern extreme and New Island, Banjoan, and
Savu, is wide and clear of danger.
Captain White describes the S. E. coast of Sandalwood Island to have a reef front-
ing it, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles. At noon, August 7th, 1828, the Satellite
observed the lat. 10° 29' S., Ion. 120° 21' E. by chronometer, the south point of the
island bearing N. E. ^ N., distant 10 miles ; a low island, with coco-nut trees, was in
one with a high conical mountain, bearing N. E. 7 miles, and with another small island,
about a third of the distance from the south point of the main island, towards the above-
mentioned low island. The south point of Sandalwood Island is very remarkable, by
terminating in a peninsula almost as high, and apparently as inaccessible, as the Rock
of Gibraltar, having a spacious bay on each side of it, particularly that on the west
side ; which seems well sheltered from the South-east Monsoon, by the detached
islands and low isthmus that separate the high peninsula from the general contour of
the coast.
The other coasts of Sandalwood Island are generalli/ steep to, and no soundings are
got until near the shore in some places ; but there is anchorage in the large bay, formed
on the north-east side of the island, now to be described.
Padewawy, or Baring Bay, in about lat. 9° 37' S., at the N. E. part of Sandalwood
* The mean of lunar and chronometric observations, taken in the Thames, Buccleugh, Carnatic, and Glatton,
made the east point in Ion. 120'' 35' E. Captain White, of the Sherburne, made it in lat. 10^ 4' S., Ion.
120' 43' E. ; but Captain Ashmore, in 1822, made it in 14° 0' 34" E. from Batavia, and in 1827 he made it
14^ 0' 57" E. from Batavia by good chronometers, which places the east point in Ion. 120° 52,|' E.
ISLANDS AND DANGERS OFF THE NORTH COAST OF TLORES.
669
Island, about 4 or 5 leagues West from its north-eastern extremity, affords anchorage
in the western part, oft' the mouth of Padewawy River ; but no soundings are obtained
until within 1^ miles or 1 mile of the shore. H. M. ships Leopard and Thames, steer-
ing eastward along the north side of the island, December 28th, 1790, saw a line sandy
bay near its N.E. part; they hauled in, had no ground 50 fathoms, about 14 and 2
miles 06!* shore, but on approaching nearer got soundings. The Leopard anchored in
15 fathoms, with the extremes of the land bearing from E. by S. to the N.W. point of
the bay N. N.W. ^ W. The Thames anchored in 10 fathoms, coarse sand, and moored
with the kedge, the extremes bearing from E. by S. to N.W. by N., the mouth of the
river West, distant half a mile, which is a good berth, and convenient anchorage dur-
ing the westerly monsoon. These ships remained here four days, wooded and watered
conveniently with their launches in the river, and each of them was presented with a
buffalo from the chief of the place.
The Dutch charts place a shoal stretching out from the east point of this bay,
which ought to have a berth ; a great swell rolls into the bay at times, during
the Easterly Monsoon, in which season the ancliorage here appears to be incon-
venient.
The southernmost point of Sandalwood Island is in lat. 10° 22' S.,* Ion. 120° 20' E. south point ot
by chronometer; and to the westward of this point there is a group of isles surrounded ''""'^'^"''•
by shoals, whicii extend 3 or 4 leagues from the coast, consequently, dangerous to ap-
proach in the night.
Captain Ashmore, in 1822, after approaching the east end of the island, coasted
along the northern side, to the westward, September 28th and 29th, and was carried
close to the reef that lines the N.W. part, during a calm, and had a cast of soundings
31 fathoms, sand and coral. He made the western extreme of the island in Ion.
119° If E. by chronometers.
THE ROUTE along the NORTH COAST OF FLORES is sometimes adopted North coast of
by ships going from Sapy Strait towards Pitt Passage; it is also frequented by Dutch ^°'^^'
ships, bound from Batavia to Amboina, or Banda, late in the season, in Alarch or
A|)ril ; likewise when returning in June, July, and August. Captain Forbes, of the
Sibbald, bound to Amboina, after reacliing Boele Coraba, at the south part of Celebes,
finding the currents running constantly through the Straits of Salayer to the westward,
steered to the southward, on tiie west side of Salayer, then proceeded along the north
coast of Flores, where, from the I7th to the 20th of April, 1810, the current was found
to set to the eastward and north-eastward, while near this coast. When this route is
to be followed, it is prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the coast of Flores,
in order to avoid the islands and dangers to the northward. The westernmost of these
are the Schiedam Islands, one of \vhich, in lat. 7° 1' S., Ion. 120° 28' E., has been
mentioned in a preceding section, marked " Directions for sailing from China, outside
the Philippine Islands, and through Pitt Passage into the Ocean." The other,
or South-east Schiedam Island, is in lat. 7° 12' S7, Ion. 120° 50' E., by observations
taken in the Boddam ; they are both of considerable size, and may be discerned 7 or
8 leagues.
SCHIEDAM SHOAL, on which the Dutch brig Mary Anne, Captain Martin, Schiedam
was wrecked in the night, March 9th, 1820, when proceeding from Batavia towards ^''°'''
• Captain White, of the Sherburne, in 182+, made the south point in lat. 10' 18' S., Ion. 120= 2-2' E. In
August, 1828, II. M. ship Satellite made the south point in lat. 10^ 20' S., Ion. 120= 23' E. by chronometer.
South -eikst
.Si hied um
Island.
670
ISLANDS AND DANGERS OFF THE NORTH COAST OF FLORES.
Amboina, was found to extend from East to West, 5 or 6 miles, and 3 or 4 miles from
North to South, having rocks at the southern part a little above water : on the shoal
Ceo. Site. observed lat. 7° 27' S., Ion. 121° 13' E., the South-east Schiedam Island bearing from
N.W. by VV. ^ VV.to N., distant 4 or 5 miles ; Panjang, or South Island of the Kalatoa
group, in sight from the wreck, bearing E, by N. A channel was found between the
shoal and the South-east Schiedam Island.
Kalatoa and
adjoining
i.sland$.
Caution.
KALATOA* ISLAND, in kit. 7° 12' S., Ion. 121° 43' E., by observations taken
in the Boddam, distant about 15 leagues, eastward of South-east Schiedam Island, is
of moderate height, and may be seen 7 leagues ; it is the largest of a group of islands,
having reefs projecting from some of them, and a shoal on which the Alfred struck in
lat. 7° 9' S., about 2 leagues off the N.W. part of Kalatoa, and near Great Crompa.
The northern islands of the group are called Great and Little Crompa : the southern
one, called Panjang or Madoo, lies close to the southward of Kalatoa, having a reef
projecting a great way out from its western side, and there is a channel betwixt it and
the south end of Kalatoa about 2 or 3 miles wide, with soundings in one part of 6^
to 12 fathoms, as experienced by the Boddam in passing through. About t! or 7 leagues
eastward of this channel lies a small island, called the Post Horse, having a reef ex-
tending about H miles from its eastern side.
As a caution to ships approaching these islands in blowing weather, it mai/ be use-
ful to describe the dangerous mistake of the fleet in 1796, which caused the unfortu-
nate loss of the Ocean. This fleet worked out of the northern entrance of Allass
Strait Jan. 31st, and cleared it at 4 p.m., then blowing hard at N.W., with much rain,
which weather continued during the 24 hours. At noon, by indifferent observations,
they were in lat. 7° 16' S., Ion. 1 19° 50' E., having experienced about 60 miles of east-
erly current in 20 hours. From hence they steered IN. E. 7 miles, and saw the North-
west Schiedam Island to tlie eastward, about 4 leagues distant; hauled to the south-
eastward and southward, to give a berth to it and the other Schiedam Island, which
was afterwards seen : they were under close-reefed topsails at this time, the wind
blowing hard at W. N. W., with rain and severe squalls, and unfortunately mistook the
Schiedam Islands for the Postillions. From having the southern extreme of the islands
bearing East at 5 p. m., they steered S.by E., S. E., and E. S. E., 21 miles, and E. N.E.,
N. E., and North, 24 miles, to round them, when at 2 a.m. land was seen N. N. E.,
very close. They immediately wore ; but some of the ships perceiving breakers ahead,
wore again, set courses, and continued working till daylight. The Alfred and Wood-
ford struck, but fortunately backed off; the Canton, Boddam, and Taunton Castle,
kept off the islands and reefs, by carrying a press of sail ; but, not being able to round
* Kalatoa is of considerable size, and called Old Klaut by the Dutch ; this and the neighbouring islands are
inhabited by a perfidious race; after the loss of the Ocean, they continued for 14 days, daily, to promise Cap-
tain Patton their proas, to carry his crew to Amboina, having plenty of these vessels on the east side of the
island. They appeared, hovirever, only to wait a convenient opportunity to massacre the crew of the Ocean ; but,
fortunately, this was prevented, by keeping a strong guard and a good look-out in the night, and having some
six-pounders mounted close by the tents. When Captain Patton was certain of the treachery of these people,
he resolved to take some proas by force, but to pay a reasonable sum for the use of them, in transporting his
crew to Amboina. With this view, an armed party was sent to the east side of the island, and in the act of
seizing the proas, they were attacked by the natives, had 7 men killed and wounded ; they killed about the
same number of the Malays, but were obliged to return without the proas. A Macassar man was at the island
at this time with some proas, who agreed to take part of the Ocean's crew to Amboina ; and two days after
the affray. Captain Patton, with his crew, embarked in the night in the proas and the Ocean's long boat, un-
perceived by the natives. They left this inhospitable island on the 19th of February, and arrived on the 28th
at Amboina.
ISLANDS AND DANGERS OFF THE NORTH COAST OF FLORES. 671
Madoo Island and the reef that projects from its western part, some of them were
forced to push through betwixt that island and Kalatoa in the morning, and found
the channel safe.
The Ocean was driven by the strong current on the reef lining the west side of
Kalatoa, and unfortunately became a wreck before daylight, notwithstanding every
eflbrt was made to keep off, by carrying a press of sail. The reefs contiguous to
these islands appear to be steep to, as no soundings were got, excepting a few casts
in the channel, betwixt Kalatoa and Madoo.
To the southward of the Schiedam and Kalatao Islands there are two dangerous simais to the
shoals, with some islands adjacent to the north coast of Flores, now to be described.
northward of
Flores.
BANGALORE SHOAL, or JAAGER REEF, lying a considerable distance off BanRaiore
the N.W. part of Flores, appears to be in about lat. 7° 40' S., although the true posi- ^'""'''
tion of this danger is not correctly known. The ship Bangalore, bound from Amboina
towards AUass Strait, struck upon tliis shoal at 9 p.m. April Tith, 1802 ; the anchor
was carried out with a whole cable, but from the steepness of the coral bank, the
anchor appeared only a-peak, and the ship soon bilged and became a wreck. At day-
light the shoal was found to extend IS'orth and South about 3 miles, and in breadth
2 miles, dry at low water on the western part, with rocks resembling proas under sail.
From the wreck on the shoal, Flores or Mangerye bore from S. W, to E. S. E. dis-
tant 10 or 12 leagues; an island near I'lores, forming like a dome, S. S. W. 7 or 8
leagues; and an island, supposed Schiedam, N.W. 8 or 10 leagues. If this was the
South-east Schiedam Island, the shoal seems to be about 18 miles to the eastward of
it, by tiie bearing and estimated distance, or in about Ion. 121° 13' E. ; whereas, if tiie
island seen bearing S. S. W. was Rusa Raji, the shoal ought to lie about 7 or 8 miles
to the eastward of its meridian, or in Ion. 121°4G'E. ; the true situation of this dan-
ger is therefore very uncertain.
The Malays, who navigate hereabout, describe this shoal to be to the northward of
Rusa Raji, which island is formed of a high gapped hill at the eastern part; but the
western part, being rather low, is called Cakke or Foot, by these people, and it sliould
not be sunk from an elevation of 10 or 12 feet (the height of their proas) in passing
to the northward of the island, in order to avoid the before-mentioned shoal.
THE ANGELICA SHOAL was seen by the ship of this name, July 3rd, 1801, A.jgf^a
in her passage from Amboina, and the following extract is from Ca})tain Don's jour-
nal : — " Saw a shoal bearing from S. by \V. to \V. N. W., bore up northward of it ; on
our approach, three proas at anchor on the shoal weighed and made sail. This shoal
is about 4 miles in extent, of circular form, the north and soutli ends nearly dry ;
and it is in Ion. 122° 18' E., bearing from Kalatoa S. E. f E., distant about 8 leagues."
If the position of Kalatoa, by the observations taken in the Boddam, is correct, this
bearing and distance would place Angelica Shoal in lat. 7° .3-5' S., Ion. 121° 58' Iv ; but
if the island seen was the Post Horse, mistaken for Kalatoa, which imght prubab/i/
happen, the shoal, in such case, would be in about lat. 7° 40' S., Ion. 122° 18' E., agree-
ing with the position assigned to it by the Angelica.
RUSA RAJI, called LUSARADY by the Dutch, in lat.8°17'S., Ion. 12r38' E. «"'" R-'Ji-
by chronometer, when bearing North about 4 or 5 miles distant, appeared bold to ap-
proach, of high, round, sloping aspect, covered with trees to the summit, and lights
were seen upon it in the niglit : on either side this island the channel is equally safe,
672
FLORES STRAIT.
but the S. E. part is lined by a reef, with a single tree on it. The frigate Maria
Reygersbergen, from Batavia, made it in lat. 8° 14' S., Ion. 121° 39^' E. by chrono-
meter.
The Sibbald passed northward of it, April lf)th, 1810, and made it in lat. 8° 18' S.,
Ion. 121° 38' E. by chronometers. At noon, 18th, the observed lat. 8° 7' S., Ion.
121° 17' E., when the centre of Rusa Raji bore S. S. E., distant 7 or 8 leagues, and a
remarkable peak or smoking volcano on Flores S. by W. At noon, 19th, the observed
lat. 8° 7' S., Ion. 121° 53' E. by chronometer, when the body of Rusa Raji bore S. 50°
W., distant about 6 leagues, and the body of Rusa Linguete E. ^ N., which bears
from the former N. E. by E. ^ E. ; same time saw land bearing about N. by E., sup-
jjosed to be the island Madoo, where the Ocean was lost, or the Port Paart of the
Dutch.
The Castlereagh, Captain Gardner, from Bombay, proceeding by the route along
the north coast of Flores, in December, 1808, passed between Rusa Raji and the coast
of Flores, in a fine channel, about 4 leagues wide, but got no soundings ; when in lat.
8° 8' S., Ion. 121° 12' E. by chronometer, at noon, Rusa Raji was then in sight bearing
E. byS. iS.
Rusa Linguete.
Directions.
Three Bas-
tards, For-
saken Island,
and
Passeleurang
Reef.
Flores Strait.
RUSA LINGUETE, called ROSAGALET by the Dutch, in lat. 8° 5' S., Ion.
122° 0' E.,* the centre, by the Sibbald's chronometers, and in Ion. 122° 6^ E. by the
Maria Reygersbergen 's chronometer from Batavia, is of considerable
height
and ex
tent, having the appearance in some views of a saddle ; off its N. E. part lies a small
island, and from the S.W. and south part a dry sand and reef project about 2 miles,
or upwards. The Castlereagh, after passing to the southward of Rusa Raji and Rusa
Linguete, had the latter bearing North at 2 a.m., distant about 2 leagues, and from
hence steered N. E. | N. IG miles till daylight, when Rusa Linguete bore VV. by S. |^S.
and Flores Head E. ^ S.
The Sibbald passed on the north side of these islands, the channel outside being
equally safe as that between them and Flores ; but the inner channel seems preferable
in the night, on account of Bangalore and Angelica Shoals. Ships, however, which
sail along the north coast of Flores in the night, ought not to borrow on it too closely
on account of several small islands, stretching along it nearly from Flores Head west-
ward, and opposite to Rusa Linguete ; among which the Three Bastards, and Duffer
or Forsaken Island, lie, in lat. 8° 14' and 8° 16' S., and 7 or 8 leagues westward of
Flores Head, by observations taken in the frigate Maria Reygersbergen.
The Dutch colonial schooner Calypso was wrecked on a reef called Passeleu-
RANG, April 28th, 1824, which is said to lie about 5 miles S. W, by W. from Rusa
Linguete. She left A mboina April 18th, bound to Batavia, and had adverse winds
several days before she struck at midnight on the reef: part of the crew were saved
in the boats, but were afterwards made prisoners by the pirates, and ultimately released
by the intercession of the Rajah of Bonerate, excepting three Europeans and six
Javanese. Ships passing between Rusa Raji and Rusa Linguete, or in approaching
the latter
Passeleurang.
bearing
north-eastward.
ought
to be on their guard to avoid the Reef of
FLORES STRAIT is bounded on the west side by the eastern part of the island
Mangerye or Flores, and on the east side by the islands Solor and Adenara, or Sa-
* The Castlereagh supposed it to be in Ion. 122=' 26' E. when passing in the night, which appears to be too
much easterly. Both it and Rusa Raji are inhabited.
FLORES STRAIT. 673
braon ; it extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S. W. 10 or 12 leagues. The south entrance,
formed between the island Solor and the S. E. part of Flores, is sometimes called the
Strait of Lobetobie ; and the northern entrance, formed betwixt tlie island Adenara
and N. E. part of Flores, is called Larantuca Gut by the Portuguese : they had for-
merly a settlement of this name at the foot of the adjoining high mountain.
In some parts of the strait, where a ship may occasionally anchor, the bottom is in
general rocky ; and the tides being very rapid in the northern entrance, which is very
contracted, large ships ought not to pursue the route through this strait, except in a
case of necessity. A fleet of six shi[)s,* bound from Europe to China, did however
pass through it in 1797-8, from the journals of which the following remarks are
chiefly taken; particularly from the observations made by Captain Williams, of the
Thames.
The South entrance of Flores Strait, in lat. 8° 40' S., Ion. 12.3'^ 3' E., cannot be South en.
mistaken by any person who has previously seen it. Captain White, of the Sher- "^^'^^"
burne, in 1824, made the Rocky Islet at the entrance of the strait in lat. 8" 38' S.,
Ion. ]22°o8'E. by chronometers.
A stranger intending to proceed into this strait during the Westerly Monsoon should,
after passing Sandalwood Island, haul in for the coast of Flores, and approach it
pretty closely when within 5 or leagues of the entrance of the strait.
This part of Flores consists of a chain of high mountains, and in coasting to the
eastward, a high round isle will be discerned directly in the mouth of the strait, which
must be passed on the west side. This isle is steep to, having no ground near it at
90 or 95 fathoms ; a little eastward of it there is a ledge of rocks, generally called
Sunken Rocks, part of which is visible above water ; and other islets and rocks front Rocks.
the south end of Solor eastward of the strait. At a small distance inside the high
round isle, or outermost isle, two other rocky islets form the passage, wiiicli are seen sailing
when the strait is open: they bear E. N. E. and W^ S. W. from each other, distant ^"<='=^°'''-
half a mile or more, and soundings of 40 to 30 fathoms were obtained by the fleet,
when passing in mid-channel between them ; the common passage, however, is on the
east side these two islets.
Flores South-east Point, forming the west side of the southern entrance of the strait,
is remarkable, being of green aspect, and resembling a gunner's quoin ; the point is
at the foot of the high volcanic mountain of Lobetobie, which may be discerned at a
great distance, and is generally seen burning in the night. A reef projects a consi-
derable way from the green point of Lobetobie, with 9 fathoms water close to it ac-
cording to the Dutch charts : it ought to have a wide berth, and the lead should be
kept going.
After passing the two inner islets, the fleet carried soundings from 40 to 27 fathoms,
decreasing regularly toward the shore ; and in the evening, when 4 or o miles inside
the islets, they hauled in for the Solor side of the strait, and anchored in from 15 to
35 fathoms, coarse sand, shells, and coral. The Glatton, in 28 fathoms, had the Mid-
dle Isle in the south entrance of the strait bearing S. by W.^ W., the other two about
equal distance on each side, volcano of Lobetobie W. ^VS., and the high mountain of
Larantuca N. 4 E. ; observed lat. 8° 30' S. by tlie Glatton, 8= 32' S. by the Carnatic,
and the tide set regularly N. by E. and S. by W . about 2^ miles per hour. In attempt-
ing to land on Solor, the natives were found hostile, tiring some arrows from the
bushes at the boats; but they prohahhf believed the ships to be Dutch, who are said
to carry away the inhabitants when opportunity oilers, to sell as slaves at Batavia.
• Glatton, Buccleugh, Carnatic, Thames, Walmer Castle, and Royal Charlotte.
VOL. II. 4 R
674
FLORES STRAIT.
Tides.
Larantuca
Village.
Anchorage.
Strait of Solor.
From the above anchorage, the fleet weighed at noon, December 26th, 1796, steered
N. E. by ]N. and IN. E. |^ N., in soundings of 25 to 33 and 40 fathoms ; then no ground,
until tiiey hauled in to anchor, near the eastern or Adenara shore, where they got 26
fathoms about three-quarters of a mile off, decreasing fast to 20 and 18 fathoms.
The Glatton anchored in 17 fathoms, Larantuca Peak N.W.by W. ; centre of the
northern entrance of the strait N. N. E. ; the low point of Larantuca shore, which forms
the passage, N. by E. ^ E. ; Point of Adenara, which has coco-nut trees to the water's
edge, N. E. by N., 3 or 4 miles distant; Adenara south point S. by W. 3 miles ; and
the N. W. point of Solor, which forms the south side of the strait of that name,
S. S. W. This is a small bay, where the fleet anchored in bad ground, for the bottom
is mostly coral rock and coarse sand : the tides were found weak, with eddies near
the shore; but farther out in the stream, they set N. N. E. and S. S. W. from 4 to
6 miles per hour, and the rise was 8 or 9 feet. The middle of the bay is the best
ground, for two ships of the fleet lost anchors by the rocky bottom, and this occasioned
the loss of bowsprit and other damage to the Buccleugh, the Walmer Castle driving
foul of her. This accident detained the fleet here until January 4th, 1797. The Glat-
ton's boat found 8 fathoms water close in shore abreast the ship ; but a shoal spit
projects from the point about three-quarters of a mile to S. E., with only 2 fathoms on
it about 1 or IJ cable's length off" shore.
Larantuca Village, on the opposite shore of Flores, can supply two or three ships
with refreshments, such as goats, hogs, fowls, fruits of various kinds, a few buffaloes,
and some turtle : fresh water may also be procured from wells here, and near the
mouth of the gut. In return for these articles, the natives will receive gunpowder in
small quantities, musket-balls, glass bottles, wine-glasses, white linen cloth, and all
sorts of coarse cutlery. They collect here small quantities of wax, bezoar, and am-
bergris, which are sent in small proas to Timor and other places, and purchased by the
Chinese traders.
The inhabitants of this village generally hoist a Portuguese flag, and may probahlij
accompany it with an English jack, when any of our ships are passing through the
strait. They, as well as the inhabitants of the village of Adenara, profess Christianity,
having been converted by the Portuguese missionaries, above a century ago.
The anchorage in Larantuca Road, in 15 or 16 fathoms, about 1 or 2 cables'
lengths oft' shore, and southward of the village, is thought to be safer than the anchor
age on the Adenara side, but the bottom is generally coral and sand throughout the
strait.
On the west side the strait there are two bays, with an island in each, and the Strait
of Solor is formed on the eastern side, betwixt Solor Island and Adenara, which is a
passage of 3 or 3|^ miles wide, leading to the Dutch Gut. There are soundings in this
passage, by keepmg towards the north side of Solor, but a spit projects from its N. E.
point : and when the shore is closely approached, there are overfalls from 4 to 9 fathoms.
Large Dutch ships sometimes adopt this passage, after coming into the south entrance
of the Strait of Flores, and proceed northward through the Dutch Gut. The Jane,
after passing along the north coast of Flores, entered Flores Strait from the northward,
passed through Solor Strait, and then southward between the islands Solor and Lom-
blen, in April, 1706, on her route to Timor.
All these islands being high and mountainous, ships passing through the straits
formed by them are subject to alternate calms, and strong sudden gusts of wind of
short duration.
From the above anchorage, near Larantuca, the fleet weighed about noon, January
ZEMANRO GUT. 675
4th, 1797, with the first of the flood, which is the best time to weigh : having a light larantuca
breeze at S.\V., they drove through Larantuca Gut under top-sails, witli boats ahead ^"''
towing, keeping nearly in mid-channel, or rather nearest the eastern sliore. The
soundings in passing through were from 17 to 20 fathoms, but some ships nearest the
shore had only 10 fathoms.
The tides are very rapid, and set nearly direct through the gut, which is only half or
three-quarters of a mile wide. It appears dreadful to strangers, although the channel
seems safe, and there are 7 fathoms water close to the point on the eastern side ; yet,
considering the rapidity of the tides in this very contracted channel, it seems not an
advisable passage for large ships.
Ships from the southward, approaching the outer point, seen on the Flores shore,
should be careful to haul over to the eastern side of the gut in passing that point,
because the tide setting strong round it will be liable to horse them into the bight of
the Flores shore, outside the point, which is shoal all over.
Adenara Village stands on the N.W. side the island of this name, a little way out- Adenara
side the gut of Larantuca. Refreshments and grain for stock may be procured here ; '^'"*8«-
ships coming from northward may steer for, and anchor off this village, where they can
get out the boats, and take every precaution requisite, before they proceed into the gut.
To the N.W. of Adenara, on the west side the channel, leading to the gut, and
nearest to Flores shore, is the small low island of Serbette, which ought to have a good
berth on account of surrounding shoal spots, some of which are dry. When this island
bore N.W. by W., the village of Adenara bore S. E. by S., distant 3 or 4 miles, and
Pulo Comba N. E. ^ E.
PULO COMBA, or CAMBAY,* is a high, round island, about 2 miles in extent, ruioComba.
bearing N. E. ^E. from the north entrance of Flores Strait, distant 11 or 12 leagues,
and nearly North from the Dutcli Gut. Captain Heywood made it in lat. 7^ 49' S.,
Ion. 123° 41' E., or 4° 34' West from Amboina Flagstafl" by chronometers. It is an ex-
cellent guide for ships coming from the Banda Sea, when bound through the Strait of
Floi'es, or along the north coast of this island, and may be passed on either side at any
convenient distance, being bold to approach ; ships ought, however, to pass it on the
east side, in steering for the strait during the Easterly Monsoon.
ZEMANRO GUT, formed between the N. E. part of Solor Island and the S.W. zemamo cut.
end of Lomblen, is 3 or 4 miles wide, and seems to be a safe passage. On the east
side the entrance there is an islet, called the Devil's Rock, with some shrubs on it,
about three-quarters of a mile from the S.W. point of Lomblen ; a hole is seen through
it, when bearing N.W. ^ N. or N.W. by N. The northern part of this passage, called
the Dutch Gut, formed between the N.W. end of Lomblen and the eastern part of Dutcb Gut
Adenara, has been already mentioned in describing the Strait of Flores. Islets and
shoals project from the N. E. point of Adenara, and bound the west side of the channel
in passing out to northward. There are soundings in some parts of tiie Zemanro
and Dutch Guts ; but although this passage is said to be frequented by large Dutch
ships, it is little known to English navigators, the Jane being the only ship of this
country known to have passed twice through Zemanro Gut in her route to and from
Timor.
* Called North Hattery by the Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen, which she places in lat. 7' 58' S., and
48 miles East of Flores Head ; and another island, situated at the entrance of the Dutch Gut, called South
Hattery by this ship, she made in lat. 8" 7' S., and 19 miles East of North Hattery bv clironometers.
4 R 2
676
ALLOO AND PANTAR STRAITS.
Lomblen
Peak.
Alloo Strait.
N.E. point of
Pantar.
The N. E. point of Solor and S.W. point of Lomblen, which form the Gut of Ze-
manro, bear N. i W. and S. i E. from each other, distant about 2^ leagues.
LOMBLEN is an island of considerable extent N. E. and S.W., consisting: mostly
of high bold land ; the high conical peak at the N.W. part, which may be seen 16 or
17 leagues, is in lat. 8° 12' S., Ion. 123° 52' E. by chronometer from Amboina. The
south coast extends nearly East and West about 5 leagues, and both the north and
south coasts seem bold to approach.
ALLOO STRAIT, bounded by the Island Lomblen to the N. Westward and west-
ward, and by Pantar to the eastward, is thought to be a safe passage, but destitute of
soundings. It is frequented by the junks and vessels which trade from Macassar to
Timor, and by those also that trade from Macao to the same place. Dampier passed
tlirough it in 1688, and again in 1700 ; but being little known to English navigators,
the following remarks, which were communicated by an able and experienced naval
officer,* may be useful,
PANTAR ISLAND, extending N.E. and S. W. about 8 leagues, is of consider-
able height, having a peak at the eastern part somewhat elevated above the rest of the
island. The N. E. point is in lat. 8° 10' S., Ion. 124'' 25' E. by chronometer from Am-
boina, and the land westward indents into two small bays between it and the N.W.
point, which forms into a little peak. About 3 or 4 miles N.byE. from the N.W.
point of Pantar there is a small round isle, called Green Island, remarkable by its
colour, and being destitute of trees. Flat Islands, about 2 or 3 miles westward of
it, are two low isles, with some straggling bushes on them ; they lie north and south
near each other, and seem connected by a spit of sand or rocks. The north entrance
of the Strait of Alio, formed between these islands and the east point of Lomblen, is
here 5 or 6 miles wide : this point, in lat. 8° 14' S., Ion. 124° 0' E. by chronometer
from Amboina, forms in a low spit of sand, with a reef or coral bank projecting under
water about half a mile from it : at the distance of one mile off it no ground was got
with 120 fathoms line. About 5 or 6 miles South from this point, East Island is
situated, nearest the Pantar side of the strait, and has a level aspect. Middle Island,
bearing S. W. by W. 5 or (j miles from East Island, is of considerable height, resem-
bling at the western part a gunners quoin : the passage on either side this island
appeared safe, and is about 4 or 5 miles wide from shore to shore ; but the opening
between East Island and Pantar seemed very narrow.
Pantar Strait. PANTAR STRAIT, formed betwixt the island of this name and the west end of
* Captain Heywood sailed from Amboina late in February, 1803, in H. M. ship Dedaigneuse, bound to
Hindoostan. He stood S. Westward, made Velthoen Island, and entered the Strait of Alloo with a leading wind,
March 3rd, with the intention of proceeding through it. Having rounded the east point of Lomblen, about a
mile distant, and got into the channel betwixt East Island and Lomblen, he meant to have passed along the
Lomblen side of the strait, to the westward of Middle Island; or to the eastward of the latter, if laid otf by the
wind. But as nigjit approached, the wind veered to S.W. with squalls and rain, and having a brig in tow, he
thought it highly imprudent to beat about in a dark night, in an unexplored narrow strait, probably subject
to strong tides ; he therefore steered out of the strait, and proceeded round the north and east sides of Ombay,
then to the S.W. betwixt it and Timor. He thus concludes his remarks on the Strait of Alloo: — " With a
leading wind, I have no doubt that the passage through this strait is perfectly safe, and I should prefer it to
the Strait of Pantar at this season, being farther to windward, much wider, and the land on each side not so
high ; consequently, less liable to calms, squalls, and ii-regular currents of wind and water." Captain Heywood
took many angular bearings whilst in the vicinity of the straits and islands, and constructed a chart of them.
East point of
Lomblen.
PANTAR STRAIT.
677
Ombay, extends N. N. E. and S. S. W. about 8 leagues, and is little frequented by
English navigators ; for it is considered to be rather intricate, and not so safe for large
ships as the Strait of Alloo. From the observations made by Captain Ileywood, when
passing the northern and southern mouths of this strait, he has been enabled to give
the following remarks.
The N.West end of Ombay, in lat. 8° 9' S., Ion. 124° 27'E. by chronometer from
Amboina, is high bold land, and the distance from it to the N. E. jjoint of Fantar is
about 5 miles ; but in the nortliern part of this strait, three islands are situated. The
northernmost of these, called North Island, is low, and on the middle of it there is a
small hummock. Haycock Island, bearing S. | W. from the former, rises upward
in the form of a cone or haycock; and the other, called High Island, or Centre Island,
is much larger and nearly of the same form, but terminates in a double peak, as high
as the west end of Ombay or the peak of Pantar. The north part of High Island is
distant about 2 leagues southward of North Island ; it is situated rather nearer the Pan-
tar side than to Ombay, and the land abreast of it forms a bay on both sides the
strait. There is a deep inlet to N. E., which apparently separates the N. W. part of
Ombay from the body of the same land. South Island, in the southern entrance of
this strait, is high, and seen to the westward of High Island, when it bears S. 11° W.
The proper channel through is betwixt the islands in the north part of the strait and
the Ombay shore, and out to the southward on either side South Island, but the pas-
sage West of the latter is preferable.
The narrowest part of the channel, between the N. E. point of High Island and the
north point of the inlet that stretches into Ombay, is nearly 2 miles wide, and it be-
comes wider to southward. Captain John Wales, of the Company's Marine, went
through this strait in 1798; he passed close to the N.W. part of Ombay, which is lined
by a reef, and carried a fair wind until abreast of High Island : then succeeded light
baffling airs from southward, and night coming on, he worked tin-ough betwixt Ombay
and High Island; when 3 or 4 miles southward of the latter, the S. E. wind set in
steady, with which he steered out S. S. Westward, between South Island and the Pan-
tar shore. No ground was got with from 20 to 40 fathoms of line in passing through
the strait, and strong eddies were experienced off the S. E. part of Higli Island.
N.W. end of
Ombay.
OMBAY, or MALLOOA, extends nearly E. byN. and W. byS. about 16 or 17 Ombay.
leagues, and from the numerous dwellings seen among the hills, it appears to be well
inhabited. This island is high land, but mostly so at the eastern part; its coasts all
round appear bold and safe to approach, and the east point is in lat. 8° 17' S., Ion.
125° 15' E., or 3° 0' West from Amboina by chronometers.
WETTER, or WETTA, is a high bold island, extending E.N. E. and W. S. W.
about 20 leagues ; it is clear of danger, and safe to approacii within 1 or 2 miles in
most places. Its east point is in lat. 7° 46' S., Ion. 120° 54' E. : Dug Island is in lat.
7°4rS., Ion. 120' 3' E., or 2° 12' West from Amboina by chronometers, and is a
small isle, about 2 miles off the N.W. end of Wetter. Pulo Bahv, in lat. 8°5'S.,
distant about 5 miles off the S. W. end of Wetter, is a high island, lK)ld to approach
on the west side; but the passage betwixt it and Wetter is said to be unsafe, and the
western shore of the latter, being lined by foul ground as for northward as Dog Island,
ought to be kept at a moderate distance.
Wetter, and
adjoining
islands.
PULO CAMBING, or PASSAGE ISLAND, extending N. N. E. and S.S.W. PuioCambing.
678
TIMOR STRAIT.
Kissa.
Roma.
Timor.
To sail south,
ward in the
Westerly
Monsoon.
about 3^ or 4 leagues, is of considerable height, with a peak ; its north point bears
S. S.W. f W. from Pulo Baby, distant 2 leagues, and the channel is clear between them,
by giving a berth to the north end of Pulo Cambing, off which foul ground projects
about one mile. The south point of this island is in lat. 8° 21' S., Ion. 125° 39' E. by
chronometer from Amboina; and its S.W. point bears East from the east end of
Ombay, distant about 20 miles, this being the breadth of the Ombay Passage, formed
between them, which is clear of danger, the islands on both sides being steep to, with-
out soundings.
KISSA, in lat. 8° 0' S., Ion. 127° 7' E. by chronometer from Amboina, is a small
island, distant about 7 leagues N. N. W. from the east end of Timor, and nearly the
same distance S. Eastward of the east end of Wetter. Lieutenant Kolff, in the Dutch
brig of war Dourga, anchored off the village of Sau, on the south coast, in 50 fathoms
water, about a cable's length from the shore, in a small bay, where he was tolerably
sheltered from S. E. winds. There is also an anchorage on the west side of the island,
and a vessel intending to call there during the South-east Monsoon should stand close
o the S. W. end of the island and then run along shore to the northward, anchoring
close round theS. W. point. The depths, however, are very irregular, and the bottom
rocky. There is a small village on the shore of the bay, and a walled town 2 miles
inland. The bay is in lat. 8° 14' S., Ion. 127° 8' E.
ROMA lies about 23 miles N. N. E. of Kissa, and is an island of considerable size
and height, with several small isles contiguous ; there is said to be anchorage at the
S. E. part, in a small bay under the high land, which forms a kind of harbour, being
protected by the small islands that front the eastern side of Roma. The Dutch brig
of war Dourga anchored in 7 fathoms, on a bank of sand which extends half a mile
to the northward from Nusa Midta, an islet lying off the south end of Roma, from
which it is separated by a strait about 3 miles wide. In the North-west Monsoon the
best anchorage is under the lee of Roma, opposite Nusa Midta. There is also said to
be anchorage on the N.W. side of Roma.
TIMOR extends about 80 leagues nearly N. E. by E.^E. andS.W. by W.^VV., the
S.W. point being in lat. 10° 23' S., Ion. 123° 30' E., and the' east end in lat. 8° 21' S., Ion.
127° 15' E., or 60 miles West of Amboina Flagstaff by chronometers.* This island is
formed of high undulating mountains in the interior, but in some places near the sea
it is of moderate height. The south coast, although little frequented, is safe to approach
within a moderate distance in most places, with soundings usually near the shore, and
anchorage in some of the bays. In coasting along this side the island during the
night, keep at a moderate distance from the points of land, as several of those fronting
the S. Western and southern parts have reefs projecting from them ; and do not stretch
far out to southward, on account of the Sahul Banks, described in Volume First of this
work.
In the Westerly Monsoon a ship coming from Amboina or any other part of the
Banda Sea, and bound westward by the southern passage, ought to use every means
to pass on the north side Timor ; for if she fall to leeward, and be obliged to pass
round the east end of that island, she will find great difficulty in beating westward, be-
twixt it and the coast of Australia; where strong winds from W. N.W. to W. S.W.,
* The geographical positions of most of those Islands are given from the observations of Captain Heywood,
corroborated by those of Captain Flinders and other navigators.
TIMOR ISLAND. 679
with squally weather and a heavy sea, usually prevail from November to April. If a
ship unavoidably fall to leeward, work westward along the south coast of Timor, and
afterwards pass through the Strait of Semao, betwixt it and Rotto ; for by keeping
to the northward of the Sahul Banks, near the land, aship \\'\\\ piohabli/ have the wind
and sea more moderate than in the offing ; and she will not be embarrassed with
dangers to the southward.
The south coast of Timor stretches nearly N. E. by E. and S.AV. by W., and is south coast of
generally formed of low land near the sea, the hills from thence rising in gentle ac- ^''""'
clivities into the interior. Both the high and low land are mostly covered with trees
close to the sea, except in some parts, which appear cultivated. Several ships, in
sailing along this coast, have usually found it safe to approach, with many small inlets,
and soundings of 15 to 25 fathoms within 1 or li miles of the shore in several places.
The south side of Timor is inhabited, and the natives are generally found inoffensive,
and more hospitable than the northern Malays. On the opposite side the island, there
are Dutch and Portuguese settlements, affording refreshments for ships.
Belli, or Dilly, in lat. 8° 35' S., Ion. 125° 40' £., or 2° 35' East from Amboina by Dein.
chronometer, is a small Portuguese settlement, on the north sitle the island, where ships
proceeding through the Ombay Passage sometimes stoj) for supplies.
From the low situation of the town under the high land, it is with difficulty per-
ceived until nearly approached, when coming from the northward. To tiie eastward
of it there is a bluff projecting point, by which it may be known when within 4 or 5
miles of the shore ; or at this distance off, with the peak of Pulo Cambing bearing
N. ^ E., the houses and flagstaff will be visible.
The inner road or harbour should not be entered by large ships, unless from neces-
sity ; for the entrance is only about U or 2 cables' lengths in width, and is formed
between two coral reefs ; inside there is not much room. The sea breaks on these
reefs at three-quarters ebb, and they are dry at low water, stretching parallel to, and
distant about 2 miles from the shore. In crossing the bar between them, the Canada
had 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, and 14 fathoms inside, about a cable's length off the town,
with the extremes of the bay from W. N.W. to N. E., and the extreme of the coral Anchorage,
reef that shelters the harbour N. N.W.i W. Inside, there is a small patch nearly in
the fair way or centre of the harbour, having on it only 12 feet water. The Princess
Charlotte* grounded on this patch, after the pilot anchored her in 7 fathoms about a
quarter of a mile off shore, with Delli Flagstaff S.E. ^ E. ; being too far westward,
she shot ahead and grounded, but was soon hove off by running out the kedge
anchor.
At a moderate distance outside the reefs there is anchorage, from 30 to 40 fathoms.
Pilots will come off, on your making the signal, if you intend to run inside. The
passage between the reefs is to the westward of the fort, near the western point of the
bay ; the instant a ship hauls round the reef, sail should be reduced, and slie will shoot
into an anchoring berth of 12 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom. There is a large^ tree on
the beach, which should not be brought more easterly than S. E. by S. From the
proper anchorage, Pulo Cambin- bears IS. 9° E. toN. 14° W., Pulo Baby X. 1(3 E.,
west end of Wetter N. 23° E., Flagstaff of Delli S. 59° E., and the extremes of the
bay from N. 45° E. to IN. 73° W.
* This ship left Amboina, June 16th, 1802. bound to Europe, and being very crank, put into Dilly 20th ;
here she remained 7 days, received Ti tons of ballast and 10 bufl'aloes. She made Dilly Flagstaft" in lat.
8°3-li' S., Ion. 125== 36' E. by chronometer from Amboina, or 4 miles more westerly tlian Captain Hey wood's
position of it by the same means.
680 TIMOR ISLAND.
Fine buffaloes, hogs, and vegetables, may be got here, also rice and poultry ; but
the latter are neither cheap nor abundant. The sea wind setting in regularly during
the day, renders this place easy of access in the South-east JVIonsoon ; and a ship may
run out speedily with the land wind in the morning. The tides are irregular in the
neaps, high water at li hours on full and change of moon.
About 9 leagues West of Delli there is a point of land in lat. 8° 39' S., Ion. 125° 13' E.,
which forms the narrowest part of the passage between Timor and the S. E. part of
Ombay, which is here 5 or 5^ leagues wide. From this point the general direction of
I'uio Batto. the coast is between S. W. ^ W. and S. W. by W. f W. 20 or 27 leagues to Pulo Batto,
a small isle with white clifls in lat. 9° 10' S., Ion. 124° 5' E. ; it lies 3 or 3^ leagues off
shore, and sometimes abounds with turtle.
There are several villages and anchoring places on the north coast ofTimor, betwixt
Delli and Pulo Batto ; but in many parts, no ground can be got until very near the
shore.
Batto-Gady. Batto-Gady, in lat. 8° 574' S., Ion. 124° 55' E., is a Portuguese settlement, where
refreshments may be got, with good anchorage in the Easterly Monsoon. There is a
rock fronting this place, with soundings near it. The Star, bound from Amboina to
Europe, anchored when calm in 15 fathoms, with Batto-Gady flagstaff in one with the
rock bearing S. S. W., 2 or 3 miles distant. With a light westerly breeze soon after
she weighed, made a tack, and stood in S. by W. ^W. for the town ; then anchored
in the road in J 1 fathoms, sand and mud, with the bluff point N. 24° E., the rock
N. .32° E., the western extreme W. 17° S., and the flagstaff of Batto-Gady S. 35°E.;
off the beach abreast the fort about 200 yards. She remained here three days cutting
wood, filled up her water, and procured some stock by permission of the governor,
and sailed August 13th, 1801.
Leffouw Road. Lcffouw Road, about 8 leagues eastward of Pulo Batto, is an open anchorage, and
the low point on the west side separates it from Tulycaon Road, or Bay. In this bay,
near the Village Occuse, a ship may anchor in 22 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths
from the shore, with the houses bearing nearly South, Leftbuw Point about 2 miles
E. N. E., and Pulo Batto leagues to the westward. It appears to have been in
Tulycaon Bay. Tulycaon Bay that the Taunton Castle anchored, September 1st, 1797, and sailed on
the day following, after receiving 15 buffaloes and other refreshments. She anchored
in 40 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths off shore, with the extremes of the bay from E.
by N. to W. by S. ^ S., the flagstaff S. i E., observed lat. 9° 12' S. The ship Prince
Regent, April 0th, 1816, sent two boats twice to the village of Occuse in passing, and
they brought off 18 fine buffaloes and some water, while the ship stood off and on.
There is good anchorage westward of the village, 50 fathoms about 2 miles off shore,
and 25 fathoms one mile from it, blueish clay.
Sutarana Sutarana Road, round the point S. Westward of Tulycaon Bay, is rocky and foul
ground ; the anchorage is in 30 to 40 fathoms about 1^ cable's length offshore, with
the houses bearing S. by \V., Pulo Batto N.W. westerly, 2^ or 3 leagues, easternmost
extreme N. E. by E., and the western extreme of the bay W. ^ S., distant 1^ miles.
The north coast of Timor is uniformly high a little way in the country, sloping
down in many parts towards the sea. In lat. 9° 41' S. is a j-emarkable peak, on the
west part of the island, whicli bears S. by E. a little easterly from Pulo Batto.
^^rrentsand The Currents are very irregular, and sometimes set strong through the channel be-
twixt Ombay and Timor, but generally to the eastward during the Westerly Monsoon,
and to the westward in the opposite season. Close to the shore of Timor a kind of
tide is sometimes experienced. In April and May the current sets commonly west-
Road.
monsoons.
TIMOR ISLAND. 681
ward, and if leaving Amboina in April, steer direct for Pule Cambing, as the current
will set you S. Westward ; but it frequently sets strong to the eastward about the
latter part of the Easterly Monsoon, in July, August, and September. In October it
sometimes sets strong westward, for in October, 1813, the Albion could not get east-
ward on account of a westerly current, and she was obliged to pass through the Strait /
of Flores to the nortiiward. The sickly season here is during the Easterly Monsoon,^
when strong land breezes prevail in the night.
The N.W. point of Timor, in lat. 9°24'S., Ion. 123° 55' E., is distant 4 or 5 leagues n.w. point of
S.W. of Pulo Batto ; and the coast from thence turns sharp round S.S.W. and South, '""°'
extending nearly in these directions to the entrance of Copang Bay, having a small
bay in the interjacent space.
Copang, or Coupang Bay, near the S.W. extremity of the island, is very extensive, Copang Bay.
and the town of Copang, built on the south side of it, is the chief settlement on Timor
belonging to the Dutch ; here they have a fort called Concordia.
There are two passages into the bay, both of which are safe, and lead to the an-
chorage. The western passage is formed betwixt Semao Island and Sandy or Turtle
Island, which is a small isle in the middle of the entrance of the bay, having a sandy
beach and a reef projecting from its western side 2 miles W. S.W. The sea breaks on
this reef, and it is partly dry at low water ; the island has also a reef stretching from
it about half a mile to the northward and southward, with 30 fathoms close to its
eastern verge.
To sail in by the western channel, borrow towards the Semao shore, or by keeping to enter it by
about mid-way between it and Sandy Island, the reef which projects from the latter Jhann".'""
will be avoided. When abreast of this island, steer directly for the town of Copang,
but no soundings will be got until within 1|^ miles of it.
The eastern channel is formed between Shandy Island and a small isle covered with
trees, which lies close in with the N. E. point of the bay ; this is considered the best
channel, there being soundings between the islands of 25 to 38 fathoms, where a ship
may anclior occasionally during a calm.
In steering S. Eastward for this channel, soundings of (JO fathoms, sand and coral, Toj^'Ij^"|^^
are obtained, when Sandy Island is bearing S. S. E., distant one mile, and the small lJ^f„ XL
isle E. N. E. 3 or 4 miles, the depths decreasing towards the latter. About half a nei.
mile farther in, there are 50 fathoms, sand, and ^38 fathoms about half a mile from
Sandy Island ; come no nearer it on account of the surrounding reef. Steering in to
the eastward of this island, Copang flagstaff will be seen bearing about South, and in
sailing towards it, the water will deepen from 32 to 47 fothoms, soft mud. \\ hen the
fort is approached within H miles, the depths will decrease to 39, 3 1 , 29 fathoms,
sand, and 21 fathoms, mud, as flist as the lead can be hove, where a ship may anchor,
with the flagstaft'S. S. E. ^ E. one mile, the river's mouth S. S. E. ^ E., Sandy Island
N. I W. about 4 miles. But the anchorage is better with the flagstaff S. by E., in
20 to 25 fathoms, i)lue mud, about half a mile offshore, and it is proper to moor im-
niediatelv. The Moffat touched here in 1818, and Captain Lee, of that ship, states
the best anchora2;e to be with the flagstaff to the westward of South: she anchored,
December 12th,' in 24 flithoms, with the Fort Flagstaff S. by W., Turtle Island
N. by W. 1 W., Semao Passage S.W. by W. i W., about 2 miles off the town.
Fort Concordia is in lat. lo° 8^' S., Ion. 123° 35' E. by chronometer from Am- Fo^.^"""
boina. and Captain Flinders mad~e the fla-staff in lat. 10° 9' S., hm. 123° 35f' L. •"
Variation 0° 37' E. in 1803 :* althougli there is very little stream of title in the roail, Tide..
* Variation, by Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., in 1839, P 33' VV.
VOL. II. 4 S
682
ROTTO ISLAND AND SEMAO STRAIT.
10 or 12 feet perpendicularly, and flows till 10;| hours at full and
change of
RefreshDnents.
Semao.
Rotlo.
Rooca Bay.
Semao Strait.
it rises
moon.
Bv application to the governor, a ship may get every assistance here, and refresh-
ments of fruits, vegetables, buffaloes, hogs, and poultry. Boats go into the river, and
fill their casks above the bridge, where the water is always good, but it is sometimes
brackish below it.
This is a safe place to touch at in the Easterly Monsoon ; but the bay is open to the
heavy swell, which rolls in during the strength of the Westerly Monsoon, rendering
the anchorage sometimes unsafe. Ships may, however, anchor under Semao, com-
pletely sheltered from the severe squalls which blow from N.W. to S.W. ; here Dutch
ships anchor during the strength of the Westerly Monsoon, but the bottom is generally
foul. There is also anchorage on the north side the bay, under a small island, called
Pulo Tekoos, where vessels are sheltered from N.W. winds.
SEMAO is an island of considerable extent, moderately elevated, fronting Copang
Bay and the S.W. end of Timor, from which it is separated by a narrow navigable
channel, having soundings of deep water. The island has a similar aspect to the ad-
jacent land of Timor, although less elevated.
ROTTO, or ROTTI, extends a considerable way S. Westward of Timor and Semao,
being 12 or 14 leagues in length N. E. and S.W. ; the S.W. end reaching to about lat.
11° 2' S., Ion. 122° 55' E. ; it is of moderate height, with undulating hills, much
larger than Semao, and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues distance. In some parts,
soundings are got near its shores, which have small isles adjoining; and at the western
part a Dutch manuscript chart places a harbour or inlet, extending inland to the east-
ward, the entrance of which is formed by shoals on each side, and seems intricate ;
but 4, 5, and fathoms are marked between the shoals, and 8 to 13 fathoms inside
the harbour, secure from all winds. This island, which is under the jurisdiction of
Copang, is well inhabited, divided into 18 districts, or Rajahships, and said to produce
suo;ar, and some other articles of trade.
Booca Bay, in lat. 10° 4& S., about Ion. 123° 10' E., situated on the S.E. side of
Rotto, is sheltered from all winds except those that blow from S.W. The ship Aber-
cromby, of Bombay, about 1,100 tons burthen, bound to China, after being dismasted
to the southward ot" Sandalwood Island, anchored in Booca Bay in 21 fathoms, soft
bottom, January 14th, 1812, after having sent the boat to sound an opening or bay,
-which was seen from the ofhng. In the journal, it is called a bay or cove, with good
anchorage, and no appearance of danger; at anchor in 21 fathoms watei-, she was
about 3 cables lengths from the shore ; the Village of Booca is at the head of the bay,
and there a good vi'atering place was found. The chief of the place supplied the Aber-
cromby with buffaloes, pigs, goats, deer, poultry, bees'-wax, and honey ; these articles
were obtained in barter foreheads, red cloth, large knives, gunpowder, muskets,
pistols ; and the natives prize highly gilt buttons. This island, like most of the others,
abounds with a small breed of horses.
After refitting in part, and having obtained water and refreshments, she sailed
January 26th for Copang Bay, but was afterwards obliged to proceed to Sourabaya to
get new masts, which could not be obtained at Timor.
Semao Strait separates Rotto from Semao and the S.W. point of Timor; it is a
safe passage, with soundings of 40 to (50 fathoms in some places. "^' *'^ ™^ "*■
The north end of
Rotto and S.W. Doint of Timor bear from each other N. ^ E. and S
W., distant 3 or
SATELLITE SHOAL AND MINSTREL PASSAGE. 683
4 leagues ; the western part of the strait is about 2 leagues wide between Rotto and
Seuiao, where there is an isle contiguous to the north end of Kotto, and another ofl"
the S.W. point of Semao. Pulo Dana is a small island near the south end of Rotto,
having other smaller isles close around.
GRIMES SHOAL appears not to have been discovered until 1827, when the ship Grimes shoai.
Ann, Captain Grimes, bound from Port Jackson to Timor, sounded on it in 5 fathoms,
rocky bottom, with a round hill on Rotto bearing W. | N., the S.W. jwint of Timor
N.W. by N. ; it was thought there might be less water on the shoal than 5 fathoms.
THE SATELLITE SHOAL seems, by the following description given in the satellite
journal of H.M. ship Satellite, to be separated from the above, and to lie farther ^'"'*''
north-westward. September lOth, 1828, steering for the Strait of Semao with a light
easterly wind, came suddenly upon a bed of rocks, when the easternmost island off tiie
north end of Rotto bore W. i S., upon which we had 5^ fathoms, the rocks plainly
visible under the bottom, with the appearance of shoaler water to the westward :
hauled up North, then had G^ fathoms, and at a cable's length farther to the northward,
no ground at 60 fathoms. These rocks are about 4 miles from the nearest part of the
island off the N. E. end of Rotto, a hummock on the centre of which bore W. ^ S.,
and the S.W. point of Timor N. ^ E., which forms the eastern boundary of the Strait
of Semao. There appeared to be tieep water all round this rocky shoal, which was
passed over nearly at high water, and it may be dangerous in bad weather, with a
high sea.
H.M. ship Hind got 6 fathoms, coral rocks, September 16th, 1828, on the same
bank, apparently about 4 miles from the nearest part of the island fronting the N. fi-
end of Rotto, a hummock on the centre of it, when on the bank, bearing W. ^ S., and
the S.W. point of Timor N. ^ E. The rocks were distinctly seen under the ship, and
as the water appeared to be shoaler to the westward, there may be danger in passing
over this rocky shoal in bad weather when the sea runs high, particularly with a large
ship. It will be avoided by keeping within 2 or 3 miles of the coast of Timor, in a
safe and convenient channel.
MINSTREL PASSAGE is formed between Pulo Douw to the westward, and Minstrel
two small isles adjacent to the north-western part of Rotto to the eastward ; it is thus ^^^^se-
described by Captain Barnes, of the Minstrel, who passed through it May 13th, 1820.
At 10 A.M., Scotch Bonnet and the S.W'. end of Rotto in one, bearing E. S. E. -^ E.,
and the S.W. point of Douw JN. E. by N. At 10| a.m., passed between Douw
Island and a small island bearing nearly East from it, which we named Palmer Island:
tiie channel appeared to be about 2 miles wide, but a reef projects 2 miles from tiie
S. E. end of Douw, and another reef projects from tlie west point of Palmer Island
1^ or 2 miles. Borrowed on the Douw shore to 8 fathoms, iiad lOj fithoms in mid-
channel, and in hauling a little eastward had 12 and 14 lathoms, tiien no ground.
"^I'hese soundings seem to be on a ridge or bar, extending across the channel from one
island to the other; and a strong current was setting tlirougii to tiie norliiward.
>\ hen in deep \^ater, steered N. by E., to pass at a proper ibstance on the west side of
a small island, which we named Tiiomas Island, that lies north-eastward of Palmer
Island ; it has a reef projecting to a considerable distance from North to \>est.
This passage would not be safe to attemi)t in the night, as the reefs would not be
discerned, being hid by the land. Douw Island appeared to be well inhabited and
4 s 2
684
SAVU AND NEW ISLANDS.
Savu.
New Island.
Adjoining
channels.
very fertile, as great numbers of sheep or goats were seen. At noon, observed lat.
10° 45' S., Ion. 122° 44' E. by chronometer, Douw Island bearing from S. by W. to
S.W. by W., distant 3 or 4 miles, Thomas Island E. | S, to S. E, by E. 3 or 4 miles.
SAVU ISLAND is about 7 leagues in length East and "West, low to seaward,
Avith hills of moderate height in the centre, and lies in lat. 10° 37' S., Ion. 122° 0' E.,*
as stated already in the First Volume of this work. At each extremity of the island
there are low sandy points with heavy breakers, which should not be approached in
the night. There is said to be a small bay on the S.W. side of the S. E. point of the
island, where ships may anchor in the Westerly Monsoon ; but Zeba or Saba Bay on
the N.VV^ side is better known, and it affords anchorage in the Easterly Monsoon. The
Endeavour, Captain Cook, anchored in this bay, about a mile off shore, in 38 fathoms
water, clear sandy bottom, with the north point of the bay bearing N. 30° E., distant
2^ miles, and the S.W. or westernmost extreme of the island W. 27° S. The refresh-
ments procurable are buffaloes, sheep, hogs, fowls, limes, and coco-nuts ; but there is a
great scarcity of fresh water.
Captain King, in the Mermaid cutter, during his examination of the coasts of New
Holland, anchored in Zeba Bay, October 24th, 1819 ; and observed that the bank was
so steep, that altiiough the anchor was dropped in 12 fathoms, the vessel lay in 22
fathoms, with 40 fathoms of cable out. The Rajah, Amadima, and the people, seemed
very poor ; refreshments were plentiful in exchange for rupees or gunpowder, but no
fresh water could be obtained at this season, which obliged Captain King to proceed
to Copang Bay for a supply.
Betwixt the west end of Savu and the small island Banjoan, lying near it, there is
said to be a passage, and the channel between the latter and New Island is safe.
NEW ISLAND has been stated, in the First Volume of this work, to lie in lat.
10° 40' S., and Ion. about 121° 43' E., but the observations taken in the Panther make
it in lat. 10° 46' S., and 10 or 1 1 leagues W. S. Westward of Savu.
H.M.S. Satellite, in 1828, made it in lat. 10° 46' S., Ion. 121° 43' E. by chronometer ;
this ship passed within a mile of its west side, at 6 p.m. August 9th, which was of
even contour, about three-quarters of a mile long.
The channel formed betwixt these islands and the east end of Sandalwood Island
is 16 or 17 leagues wide, and clear of danger. The other channel, formed by Savu
to the West, and by Rotto and Semao to the eastward and south-eastward, is about
the same breadth, and equally safe ; and either of them may be adopted by ships
bound to or coming from the Ombay Passage, according to circumstances.
* This longitude of Savu, by the observations of Captain Heywood, agreeing with chronometers from Am-
boina, corresponds also with the observations of other navigators.
685
ARAFURA SEA.
ISLANDS.
THE CHAIN OF ISLANDS extending from the east end of Timor nearly to islands east-
New Guinea, being seldom seen by European navigators, are imperfectly known; but ^'■■*"* "f T"""'^-
are frequently visited by large Macassar proas, and others, which carry on a consider-
able trade with several of those islands, and which also annually visit the coast of
New Holland, near the Gulf of Carpenteria, to procure the trepang or sea-slug, called
also bechee mer, for the China market.
PULO JACKEE, or NOOSSA NESSING, is a small isle, about 3 miles off the Puiojackee.
east point of Timor, inlat. 8° 19' S., Ion. 127° 18' E. : the Dutch charts mark soundings
around this end of Timor, and anchorage on the N.W. side of Pulo Jackee. Betwixt
this island and Lettee, the next island to the eastward, the channel is about 9 leagues
wide, and clear of danger.
THE SERWATTY, or SEAWAY ISLANDS, extend about 35 leagues in an serwatty
easterly direction from the east end of Timor towards the south end of Timor Laut. '^''"'^^•
The following remarks are taken principally from the narratives of Lieutenants Kolff
and Modera.
Lettee, or Letti, is a high island of considerable extent, bearing from Pulo Jackee i'C«ee.
about E. ^ N., distant 9 or 9^ leagues.* The land is level near the sea, and reefs line
the north and N.W. sides of the island at a distance of half a mile from the shore.
The best anchorage in the South-east Monsoon is off the village of Tombra, on the N.W.
side of the island, there being immediately opposite the village an opening in the reef
500 feet wide, with from 6 to 9 fathoms, sand. The anchorage, however, is very con-
fined, and a ship intending to enter should first anchor outside, and then warp in and
moor head and stern. During the Westerly Monsoon, the least anchorage is in the
east side of the island off the village of Batu Mean.
Moais the next large island eastward of Lettee, separated from it by a small channel. M„a.
and having near its N.W. cape a high peaked mountain called Korbou. The Dourga
anchored off the west end of the island, at a place bearing due East from Batu Mean.
Lieutenant Kolff describes the S.W. point of the island as having reefs surrounding
it, but adds that on every part of the east side of the island there is good and conve-
nient anchorage.
Lakor is low, resembling a coral bank raised about 20 feet above the sea. There i.akor.
are two villages on the north side of the island, off the western one of which the
Dourga anchored in 7 fathoms, on a patch of sand and stones, and moored with a
warp to the reef which lines the shore. The inhabitants informed Lieutenant Kolff
that good anchorage was to be found between Moa and Lakor opposite the village of
Mowai.
* In Mr. Earl's chart of the Arafura Sea it bears from Pulo Jackee E.N.E. about 20 miles.
686
TIMOR LAUT, OR TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Sermatta.
Damme.
Teoii.
Luan. Luan, about 15 miles E. N. E. of Lakor, is described by Lieutenant Kolff as about
14 miles in circumference, and high, with a number of small islands round it; an
extensive reef studded with islets surrounds it, within which there is anchorage for
small vessels. Trepang, turtle, and edible birds' nests can be obtained here in larger
quantities than at any other of the islands, and the inhabitants are a kind and friendly
people,
Sermatta has a high ridge of hills extending East and West, and is about 15 miles
in length. It is the easternmost island of the Serwatty chain, and its eastern extreme
is in about lat. 8° 25' S., Ion. 129° 37' E.
DAMME, or DAMMA, about 75 miles N. N. W. from Sermatta, is a high, large
island, having smaller islands to the southward and westward of it. There is a vol-
cano on the N. E. extreme of the island, at the foot of which are some hot springs.
Kulewatte Bay is on the east side of the island, and extends about 4 miles into the
land ; it has high and precipitous shores, and according to Lieutenant Kolff is in
many parts unfathomable. The Dourga anchored under the north point of a small
cove at the head of the bay. Wilhelm Bay, formerly the seat of the Dutch Residency,
is on the north side of the island ; it is much exposed, with bad anchoring ground, and
a swell often tumbles in at all seasons.
Teon, or Tauw, lying E. IN. E. of Damme, 35 miles distant, is hilly and of moderate
height, and uninhabited ; the channel between it and Nila is unsafe, there being a
number of reefs in it. Nila lies about 6 leagues N. E. of Teon ; it is a high round
island, with anchorage for small vessels on its north side. The old Dutch charts shew
two extensive slioals about 10 miles to the northward of Nila.
Seroa. Scroa, or Serua, in about lat. 6° 20' S., about Ion. 130° 38' E., lies in a N. E. direc-
tion from Nila, and is said to have anchorage on the north side ; but most of those
islands are high and steep to, with generally a rocky bottom in those few places
where soundings are obtained.
Baba. BABA, or BABBER, lies about 60 miles West of Timor Laut; it is a large
high island, encircled by small islands, some of which lie 4 or 5 leagues off. One of
these, called Welang or Weetang, fronts the west end of Baba, and there is a bank of
5^ to 10 fathoms water between them, where a vessel may anchor, and be sheltered
from westerly winds by the high land of Weetang, and by the high land of Baba from
easterly winds. There is also anchorage at the east end of Baba, with the N. E. point
of the island bearing about North, the south point S. by W., and the entrance of a
fresh water river will then bear S. W. ; but the bottom is generally foul about this island :
refreshments may be obtained, but great caution is necessary in all intercourse with
the natives, who are more barbarous than those of the neighbouring islands.*
Timor Laut THE TIMOR LAUT or TENIMBER ISLANDS lie between the Serwatty
and the Arroe Islands ; the group consists of the large island of Timor Laut, the islands
of Larat and Vordate, close to the N. E. of it, and the numerous small, low islands
which front its N. W. side. There is no channel for large vessels within the group ;
and as the limits of the coral reef which lies outside the small island, the N.W. side of
the group should be approached with great caution.
* When Lieutenant Kolff visited Tepa, a village on the west side of the island, the natives were shy and
deserted the village, which led him to suspect that all was not right. After some time he found that the crew
of an English Brig had been massacred some months previously, while bartering with the natives.
TIMOR LAUT, OR TENIJIBER ISLANDS. 687
Captain Barnes, in the Minstrel, approached close to the S.W side in June, 1820,
and coasted along- the southern and eastern sides of the island within a moderate dis-
tance, which enabled him to make the following observations.
By two days' meridian altitudes of tlie sun, when near the south part of Timor Laut, south point
made its southern extremity* in lat. 8^ 27' S., Ion. 130° 50' E. I)y chronometer measured
from Delli, variation 2° 30' E. At a small distance from the S.W. point, there is a
small island covered with trees, the S.W. point of which is on a transit with the S. W.
point of Timor Laut, bearing W. N. W., and a dangerous reef seems to extend about
mid-channel between them ; but a mud-bank with regular soundings stretches in a
westerly direction from the woody island towards the coral bank of 6 fathoms before
mentioned.
The South or S.W. point of Timor Laut being rather low, and fronted by a danger-
ous reef projecting from it 2 or 3 miles, requires great caution when in its proximity
during the night, particularly as the currents are mutable and strong at times. The
land about the point is covered with trees, and the shore to about a mile eastward
presents a rocky face, the east end of which has the appearance of the entrance of a
river, and is remarkable by a large detached fragment of rock, reseuibling the hull of
a ship. From the south point, the coast extends in an easterly direction 12 or 13 miles,
then N. E. by E. a little easterly, and afterwards more to the northward ; the whole
extent, from the south point to the northern extremity of the island, being about 26 or
27 leagues in a N. N. E. direction.
In 1823, an English brig, supposed to be the Lady Nelson, anchored off Luora, on
the east coast, to obtain refreshments; and while half the crew were on shore, tiie
natives boarded the vessel, and killed the remainder, except two youths, wiio were still
there when Lieut. Ivolff visited Vordate in 1825 and 1820.
Captain Owen Stanley, in H. M. S. Britomart, visited Oleliet, a village on tiie S. E.
part of the island, in 1839. It affords secure anchorage during the North-west Mon-
soon, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, about half a mile from the shore. Mr. Hill, the master
of the Britomart, describes Oleliet as built on a hill, 413 feet above the sea, the land
side being nearly perpendicular, and only capable of being ascended by means of
ladders, which can be removed in case of an attack. Between Oleliet and Luora,
there extends a coral reef about a mile from the shore. From Luora, the east coast of
Timor Laut is high (about OUO or 800 feet) and thickly wooded. Captain Stanley
makes Oleliet in lat. 7° 55' S., Ion. 131° 20' E.
Larat, is a large island adjacent to the N. E. part of Timor Laut, from which other Larat.
islands stretch in a N. Easterly direction to the islands called the Ki Islands.
Vordate, on the N. E. side of Larat, is about 15 miles in length from N. E. to S.W.,
and is the north-easternmost of the Timor Laut group; its N. E. point is in lat.
7° 50' S., Ion. 132^ 18' E., and may be easily recognized by its irregular outline, the
neighbouring islands of Timor Laut and Larat being more level. A vessel, in the
South-east Monsoon, after rounding the point at a little more than a mile distance, to
avoid a rock off it, may run along tlie edge of the reef which Hues the west coast, and
anchor in from 10 to 30 fathoms, sand, close under the land between the town of
Sebeano and the reef which extends from the S.W. point of the island.
* Captain Warington, in 1822, on his voyage from Port Jackson towards Batavia, passed within 5 or 6
miles of the southern extremity, and placed it in lat. 8^ 14' S., Ion. 130^ 43' E. by good chronometers. Cap-
tain Cook, in his first voyage round the world, made it hi lat. 8' 17' S., Ion. 1:31= 50' E., but the lunar tables
were at that time imperfect. Lieutenant Kolil' makes it in 8' 17' S-, Ion. 131° 7' E.
688
ARROE ISLANDS.
Ki Islands, or
Keys.
Great Ki.
Serra is the southernmost and largest island on the west side of Timor Laiit, and
about 7 miles distant from it. There is probably anchorage round its S. E. point.
THE KI ISLANDS, or KEYS, are three large islands, with many adjacent
smaller ones, situated about 15 leagues westward of the Arroe Islands, and about 20
from the S.W. part of New Guinea. The whole of these islands are little known to
Europeans ; and the same may be remarked of the chain of islands that extends in a
north-westerly direction from the Ki Islands to the S. E. extremity of Ceram.
Captain Barnes, in the Minstrel, who approached close to the eastern coast of the
Great Ki, in July, 1820, describes it as high land, the coast bold to approach, covered
with wood, and having on it several large villages.
Mr. Hill, master of H. M. S. Britomart, states that the mountains of Great Ki Is-
land rise to a heiglit of 3,000 feet ; the lesser Ki being on the contrary very low, and
having shoals extending from its north side. The water being very clear, the shoals
are all visible by daylight. Ki Doula lies on the N.W. side of the lesser Ki, in a bay
fronted by several small islands.
Airoe Islands. THE ARROE, or ARRU ISLANDS, like the whole of this Archipelago, are
imperfectly known ; they extend upwards of 100 miles North and South, and lie be-
tween the Timor Laut Group and the south-west coast of New Guinea. They are
said to be intersected by deep inlets or water channels, which seem to separate them
into different sections ; and are fronted by many small isles at the north-western and
eastern sides. From the southern extremity of Arroe Islands, soundings extend a
considerable way to westward ; and in an easterly direction there are moderate depths
of 16 to 35 fathoms as far as the coast of New Guinea, where a great bay is formed to
the northward of Cape Valsche, or False Cape.
Contiguous to the Arroe Islands there are anchorages in several places, and the
islands abound with some articles of refreshment, and others of trade ; but the natives
of these islands, and those of the adjacent coast of New Guinea, are inhospitable to
strangers, and must be carefully watched.
Captain Barnes, in the Minstrel, steered from Timor Laut, June 29th, 1820, towards
the western coast of the Great Arroe, and carried soundings from 50 to 37 fathoms on
the bank which extends about 20 leagues West and S.W. of Arroe Island. When
soutii point of the south end of Great Arroe bore East 5 or 6 leagues, had soundings of 22 fathoms,
Arroe Island. ^^^] crossed over a bank with 16 to 6 fathoms. Made the south point in lat.
7° 0' S., Ion. 133° 56' E.* by chronometer measured from Delli in 17 days interlapsed
time.
July 3rd, at noon, anchored in 5 fathoms, hard sand, with grey specks, distant 12
miles off the town of Niagoni, extremes of the western coast of Great Arroe from
S. by W. to N. i E., observed lat. 6° 38' S., Ion. 133° 58' E.f A ship coming in here,
should not borrow under 6 fathoms, as the water shoals suddenly from 6, 5, 4, to 3 and
2^ fathoms. A boat with the Rajah visited the ship when we anchored. July 4th,
at 10 A.M., attempted to land on the shore at the town of Niagoni, which the natives
would not permit, appearing to be hostile and treacherous.
The northern part of the group is better known than the southern, which has not
* Captain Cook made this point in lat. 7° 6' S., Ion. 135° 0' E. Lieut. Kolff places it in lat. 7° 6' S.,
Ion. about 134° 20' E.
t The Triton passed very near the position here assigned to the town of Niagoni without seeing the land.
Niagoni.
NEW GUINEA, SOUTH-WEST COAST, 689
yet been explored by Europeans. Jn approaching the islands from the southward, a ship
should keep 5 or 6 leagues from the land; and |)assing on the western side of the group,
as far as the parallel of G° S., she may haul in to the eastward, for the island of Babi,
lying in lat. 5° 57' S. Mr. Hill, of the Britomart, gives the following directions.
" When Babi Island is approached, a N.N.E. course, 0^ miles, may be steered for the
N.W. point of Wama (the next island to the north-eastward), on which stands the village
ofWanla. There is anchorage off VVanla, but a vessel intending to proceed to Dobbo,
a village higher up, should keep a mid-channel course, or keep Dobbo Point a little
open on the starboard bow. "^Ihe channel is deep, with irregular soundings, and the
edges of the reefs, on each side, may be clearly seen from the mast-head. The an-
chorage at Dobbo is off the low sandy point, in 15 to 20 fathoms, good holding ground."
In working in or out, great attention must be paid to the tides. The native pilots do
not appear to be very trustworthy, if those received on board the Britomart were a
fair specimen of them.
Wokan, Wadia, Wassia, lie in a direct line North of Wama, with numerous other
islands near them to the eastward. Wokan is a large island, containing many villages ;
a reef lines its western side. Wadia is the next island, and has a town on its north
side, which is the chief resort of the traders from Ceram. Wassia is the north-west-
ernmost island of the group, and is separated from ^^'adia, by a strait, in which there
is good anchorage.
NEW GUINEA, SOUTH-WEST COAST.
The following account is taken from Mr. Earl's Sailing Directions for the ArafTira
Sea, compiled from the voyages of Lieutenants Kolff and Modera, of the Dutch navj%
and published by the Admiralty.
" Frederick Henry Island, on the S.W^ coast of New Guinea, was supposed to be part Fredericw
of the main land until 1835, when Lieut. Kaal, of the Dutch navy, passed through the "<^"0- 's'and
strait which separates it. The island is about 100 miles in length East and AA'est, and
58 miles in breadth. The land is everywhere low, apparently marshy, and covered
with a dense forest. A number of natives were seen on the N.^^'. side of the island,
by Lieut. Kolff, in 1820 ; but they shunned all intercourse with his people."
"Cape Valsche, or False Cape, the S.W. extreme of Frederick Henry Island, is, ac- CapeVaische.
cording to Lieut. Kolff, in lat. 8° 22' S., Ion. 137° 41' E. The land about the cape,
and the entire south coast of Frederick Henry Island, is fronted by a mud-bank, ex-
tending about 8 miles out to sea, having 3 fathoms on its verge, from whicii the depth
rapidly increases to 9, 14, and 27 fathoms. About 50 miles to the N.E. of Cape
Valsche the mud-bank begins to decrease in breadth, so that vessels are enabled to
approach the shore."
" Dourga Strait was first entered by Lieut. Kolff in 1820, who supposed it to be a oourga su-ait.
large river, and in 1828 the Triton penetrated al)0ut 40 miles from its western entrance;
but it was not determined to be a strait until 1835, when two Dutch Ciovernmcnt
schooners passed through. The N.W. entrance is about 12 miles wide, the western
point being in lat. 7° 27' S., Ion. 138=^ 46' E., and the eastern point in lat. 7° 22' S.,
Ion. 138° 55' E. The soundings at this entrance are from to !) fathoms, mud, which
increase to 13, 15, and 18 fathoms while proceeding up the strait, tin- last being the
depth in mid-channel at the part from which the Triton returned. The shores may
be approached to within a mile, in soimdings of from 5 to 8 fathoms. No danger was
discovered by the Triton, though she beat up the strait against the S. E. Monsoon
VOL. II. 4 T
690
The position of the south entrance has not yet been determined. This strait is of
little importance to seamen at present, except that it leads to the possibility that the
portions of land which are seen by vessels passing through Torres Strait, and which
were supposed to be parts of New Guinea, are, in fact, a series of islands ; and if
so, some channel may be discovered, by means of which the dangers attending the
navigation of Torres Strait may be avoided."
" On the north side of the strait, about 5 miles within the entrance, is a creek, in
which the water is fresh at three-quarters ebb; but a vessel would find difficulty in
watering there. The upper part of the creek is inhabited by Papuas, or Oriental
Negroes, the aborigines of the coasts of New Guinea, who possess small canoes, and
are armed with bows and arrows, and spears. A number of them came dowti on the
beach and communicated with the people of the Triton, bartering their arms and
ornaments for cloth and empty bottles; but after a friendly intercourse had subsisted
for nearly an hour, a difference occurred, in which three of the natives were killed and
several of the Dutch wounded."
coastNorthof " The coast from the entrance of Dourga Strait extends in a N. N. Westerly direc-
the Dourga. tjoj,^ j^ j),g p^jgg Utanata River, in lat. 4° 48' S. The land is low and covered with
forest, and a mud-bank, which lines the shore, prevents vessels from approaching
nearer than from 4 to 6 miles. This part of the coast is thickly populous, but the
natives are inhospitable to strangers."
Triton Bank. " The Tritou Saud-bauk, the south side of which is in lat. 6° 2' S., Ion. 138° 4' E.,
was discovered by the Triton. It lies about 18 miles offshore, with 10 fathoms, mud,
immediately to the southward."
Piovi.ientiai " Providcutial Bank, in lat. 5° .38' S., Ion. 137° 67' E., has 4, 6, and 7 fathoms imme-
^'^"^- diately to the South of it, and 12 fathoms about 2 miles from its western end. It lies
10 miles from the main."
False utanata "False Utanata River, in lat. 4° 48' S., Ion. 136° 57' E., is of considerable size,
^"''^''- but a bar of sand extends across the mouth, on which, during the S. E. Monsoon,
there is a heavy surf. A vessel may anchor in 13 fathoms to the westward of the bar ;
but a strong swell from the southward, and the reefs, which lie to the north-west.
False Wakia render this anchorage unsafe during the S. E. Monsoon. False Wakia River, 7 or
8 miles to the northward, is of a similar description. The shores of these rivers are
thickly peopled, but no intercourse could be obtained with them. The natives of
Ceram visit this coast during the N.W. Monsoon with a number of jam/ms (proas), and
carry on a brisk trade."
Coast North of " The coast to the northward of the False Utanata forms a deep bight, terminating in
ut^na^ta.^ Cape Steeuboom, lat. 4° 43' S., Ion. 136° 23' E., across which, in a line between the
Cape and the river, extends a chain of shoals."
Utanata River. " Utanata River, lat. 4° 32' S., Ion. 136° 10' E., is about 2 miles wide at its mouth,
and is fronted by a bar, on wliich there is rather more than a fathom at low water.
The best anchorage is a little to the westward of the mouth of the river, about 3 miles
from the west point, in from 6 to 8 fathoms, mud. The Triton lay here 11 days, and
completed her water, in wiiich the crew were assisted by the natives, who uniformly
behaved in a friendly manner ; probably having become more civilized than those to
the southward, from their having had more communication with the Ceramese and
Macassar traders. Plantains, coco-nuts, limes, papyas, bread-fruit, nutmegs, and
turtleshel], were brought off by the natives in their canoes, and exchanged for calico,
looking-glasses, chopping-knives, and beads, but the former is most in demand ; pigs
abound, but the natives do not like to dispose of them."
NEW GUINEA, SOUTH-WEST COAST. 691
"To the nortliward of the Utanata lies the Watnuka River, in lat. 4° 29' S., Ion. wainQka
136° 6' E. It is rather smaller than the former, and, like it, is covered by a bar." ^'''^■'•
" Cape Buro, in lat. 4° 7' S., Ion. 135° i)' E., is a steep promontory, visible at a dis- cape Buro.
tance of about 30 miles, with no soundings, 4 miles outside. A range of mountains
stretches from thence to the eastward into the interior, with three table-hills on it,
which are visible from ofl'the False Utanata River."
" Lakahia Island, lat. 4° 2' S., Ion. 134° 53' E., is moderately elevated. May, 1826, Lakahia
the brig- Dourga anchored in 5 fathoms, with the island W. S.W., distant 4 miles, and ^*'*"''-
obtained water and refreshments, but ow ing to some of the boats crew having attempted
to cut down a coco-nut tree, the natives attacked them and killed one of the men.
There is a bight in the main land to the northward of the island, which has not been
examined."
" Triton Bay is an inlet, extending 6 miles N. E. into the main land of New Guinea. Triton Bay.
The coast is here fronted by a chain of small islands, the shores of which are steep to.
The best entrance to the bay is by a strait, ti^ miles wide, between the Island Semieuw,
lat. 3° 48' S., Ion. 1.34° 12' E., and the west point of Aiduma, lat. 3° 51' S., Ion.
134° 14' E. A chain of five small islands stretches 4 miles W. S.W. from the west
point of Aiduma, and the fair channel lies between the outermost of these and
Semieuw."
" Fort Dubus, a settlement of the Dutch, has been placed at the head of a small cove Fort Dubos
on the north side of Triton Bay, in lat. 3° 42' S., Ion. 134° 15' 41''' E. This cove is
2 miles deep, and 1 mile wide, having at the entrance a depth of 32 fathoms, which
decreases to 5 fathoms, mud, at its head, where a vessel may moor a cables length
from the shore. The channel into the cove is close along the S.W. side, as a mud-
bank, nearly dry at low water, extends from the N. E. side, three-quarters of the width
of the cove. High water at full and change, Ih. l!m., rise and fall 7 feet. This set-
tlement was founded by the Dutch in 1828. The garrison consists of about a
dozen European and 40 native soldiers. "Water and refreshments may be obtained
there."
" Iris Strait, the channel by which the Triton entered Triton Bay, is formed by the iris strait.
Island Aiduma to the South, and by Dramaai Island and the main land of New Guinea
to the North and East. The south entrance of the strait, which is 2 miles wide, is in
lat. 3° 54' S., Ion. 134° 22' E. From thence the strait stretches N.W. by W., about
6 miles, having a breadth of from 1 to 2 miles throughout, but having no soundings in
mid-channel with 00 fathoms of line. A vessel may anchor in a bight on the
N.E. side of Aiduma in 25 fathoms, at a cable's length from the shore, and oppo-
site to a fertile valley, in which there is a native village, where refreshments may be
obtained."
" Namatotte Island, lat. 3° 44' S., Ion. 134° 1' E., was the western limit of the Triton's
survey. A group of high islands extend from this westward, the extremity of which
is Cape Katomun, about lat. 4° 0' S., Ion. 133° 3' E. This cape rises into a high ^jP". '''""'
mountain, and there is no ground with 100 fathoms 4 miles to the westward ot it."
" Pulo Adi, or Wessel Island, which extends N.W. and S. E. about 25 miles, lies ^\?!°,;n;,°;d.
30 miles to the S.W. of the entrance of Triton Bay. The S. E. [)()iMt of the island is
in lat. 4° 19' S., Ion. 133° 57' E., and W. S.W. of" this point, about 9 miles' distance,
lies Bird Island, which is encompassed by a reef. Bottom cannot be found with Jjreef*"'
100 fathoms to the westward of the reef, though between the island and PUdo Adi
there are soundings of 14 to 25 fathoms. '1 o the S. E. of the west point there is a
small bay, in which anchorage may be had in 10 fathoms. '
4 T 2
Nttmatottf
Island.
692
MONSOONS AMONG THE MOLUCCAS AND IN THE BANDA SEA.
Easterly
Monsoon.
Westerly
Monsoon.
Weatlier.
North-west
current.
Easterly
current.
WINDS AND CURRENTS.
" In the sea lying between New Guinea and Timor, the Easterly Monsoon commences
in April and continues until the beginning of October, when, after a few weeks of
variable winds, the Westerly Monsoon sets in and continues without intermission until
the beginning of March. In the southern part of the Indian Archipelago generally,
the Easterly Monsoon is attended with tine weather; but on the S.W. coast of New
Guinea, and among the islands to the westward, as far as the east coast of Celebes,
frequently squalls, with heavy rain, are experienced at this season, often accompanied
with considerable swell from the southward, while during the remainder of the year
the weather is fine. This rule, however, does not extend farther to the westward, for
from Celebes to the western extremity of the Archipelago, and also on the north coast
of Australia, the westerly is the rainy monsoon.* The monsoons, when at their height,
usually blow in an E. S.E. and W. N.W. direction; but towards the change they
draw round more to the southward, sometimes continuing several days at S.W."
" During the Easterly Monsoon, the current sets to the N.W. along the western coast
of New Guinea and between the Ki and Arru Islands, and thence eastward along the
south coast of Ceram, at the rate of 1 or 1^ miles an hour, according to the strength
of the wind, the velocity being greatest along the coast of New Guinea. At this period
an easterly current prevails on the north side of the islands, extending from Timor to
Timor-Laut, so that a moderately fast vessel would experience no diflSculty there in
beating up against that monsoon. In the Westerly Monsoon the current in these seas
usually sets with the wind, but its velocity is not so great as during the other season."
Vorkay Island
and Trepang
Banks.
Vorkay, a large island near the southern extreme of the group, is important, from its
pearl fishery. The trepang banks lie between this island and several small islands
8 miles to the eastward.
MOLUCCA AND BANDA SEAS.
MonFoons
among the
Molucca
Islands.
WINDS AND WEATHER.
THE NORTH-WEST MONSOON generally commences among the Molucca
Islands early in, or about the middle of, November, but seldom blows strong till late in
December, continuing until the end of March ; then, after an interval of calms,
light variable winds, squalls and rain ; in April the South-east Monsoon gradually
sets in, and strengthens in May, continuing until October, when the winds become
variable.
• "It is difficult to account for this fact, unless we suppose that the clouds brought from the Indian Ocean by
the Westerly Monsoon are stopped and emptied of their contents by the islands on the western limits of the
Archipelajro ; and that, in like manner, the Easterly Monsoon brings the clouds from the Pacific, which break
over tfie islands to the eastward. The south part of Timor and the north coast of Australia, where the seasons
are similar to those at the opposite extremity of the eastern seas, lie open to the westerly winds from the
Indian Ocean."
MONSOONS AMONG THE MOLUCCAS AND IN THE BANDA SEA.
693
In the track between Celebes and Gillolo, and sometimes eastward of the latter, as
far as the coast of New Guinea, the winds prevail from N. N. Westward in the North-
west Monsoon, and from S. S. Eastward during the opposite season. This is more
particularly the case in the Molucca Passage, where the winds blow nearly right
through, prevailing more from North than from West in the North-west Monsoon,
and more from South than from East in the other season. Therefore, at the Molucca
Islands, the former is called the Northerly 3Ionsoon, and the other the Sout/icrlij Mon-
soon. But the winds are subject to great changes during both monsoons, in the
vicinity of the extensive islands which form the boundaries of Pitt Passage, whereby
ships that sail well may generaUy gain ground against the monsoon in any direc-
tion.
IN THE BANDA SEA, or that space bounded by Bouro and Ceram to the north-
ward and by Timor and Timor Lant to the southward, the North-west Monsoon
becomes a W. N.W. one, for the winds prevail more from West than from North,
and they prevail more from East than from South during the South-east Monsoon.
In the space betwixt Timor and Australia, the wind often blows at W. S.W. or West
during the Westerly Monsoon, and in both these seas it is accompanied with hard
squalls, dark gloomy weather and rain, wliich occasions a constant easterly current.
The atmosphere over the N.W. coast of Australia, being greatly rarified by the influence
of the sun upon that dry, barren soil, attracts the current of air from the ocean towards
its shores. Therefore, when the sun is in the southern hemisphere, there is no S. E.
trade experienced near the northern coast, for the Westerly ]Monsoon extends to lat.
15° or 10° S., where the winds begin to draw to south-westward ; and in a higher lati-
tude they veer to S. S.W. and South, blowing along the coast in the night, or inclin-
ing towards it in the day. But as the distance is increased from the coast westward,
they will be found to draw gradually round into a S. E. trade.
THE SOUTH-EAST MONSOON, which commences in the Banda Sea in April, south.
is set in by the end of May, at Amboina, Ceram, and Banda, and with it the rainy
season at these islands. But it is remarkable that the rains do not extend to the
Island of Bouro, although it is not more than 20 leagues to leeward of Amboina; for
at Bouro the fair weather commences with the same monsoon that brings rain and
unsettled weather to the islands to w indward of it.
In the strength of the South-east Monsoon the winds blow sometimes strong through
between Bouro and Ceram. Captain Waterman, in the ship Volunteer, bound to^
Amboina, in 1812, beat several days against a strong S. E. wind, under the lee of
Manipa and Kelang, and was obliged, July 17tli, to run into Cajeli Bay, the ship
being only able to carry her foresail and close-reefed maintopsail.
Monsoons in
the Banda Sea,
and near New
Australia.
east
Monsoon in
the Banda
Sea.
ISLANDS.
THE CHAIN OF ISLANDS adjoining the west coast of Cillolo were formerly Molucca
considered as the principal spice islands ; but since the Dutch destroyed the trees, this
valuable article of trade is not procurable here. Ships tiiat touch at these islands may,
however, be supplied with refreshments, such as goats, slieep, poultry, sago, witli
various sorts of iruit and vegetables.
TERN ATE, the northernmost of these islands, is of small extent, but high, with a Temate.
694
MOLUCCA ISLANDS.
fort on tlie east side called Fort Orange, where is the chief town. The Scaleby Castle,
bound to China by the Eastern Passage, November 27th, 1814, anchored in 22 fathoms,
coarse sand and gravel, with the Flagstaff of Fort Orange N.W. by N.,and moored with
the stream anchor to the northward. During the night, one of the most violent ex-
plosions of the volcano occurred ever known at Ternate. Water was only procurable
in small c(uantities at this time, as four or five butts drained the wells. This place is
in lat. 0°49' N., Ion. 127° 30' E., and the anchorage is near the shore abreast the town.
The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen made the road in lat. 0° 48' N., Ion.
127° 29^' E., and the volcano mountain in lat. 0° 48' N., Ion. 127° 2H' E. Variation
2° 0' E.ln 1820.
The King of Ternate was considered as the sovereign of all the Molucca Islands
adjacent, until they became tributary to the Dutch. There is a small isle about
2 miles off the north end of Ternate, called Kiery, with rocks fronting it to the north-
ward. Both Kiery and Ternate have a pleasant aspect, being cultivated, and well in-
habited.
Tidore, ad-
joining islands
and dangers.
TIDORE is nearly of the same size as Ternate, lying to the south-eastward, and
separated from it by a safe channel : the N. E. end of the island is in lat. 0°46'N.,
Ion. 127° 34i' E., the mountain in lat. 0°40'N., Ion. 127° 22^' E. ; and the south ex-
treme in lat. 0'34'N., Ion. 127° 24^' E., by the Maria Reygersbergen's observations.
The anchorage at Tidore is on the east side the island, near the town, in 30 fathoms,
sandy bottom ; but the ground is foul in several places, with deep water close in shore.
From Tidore, in a south direction, Potbarer Island, Motir or Moone, Mackian,
Kayo, with other smaller isles, stretch along the coast of Gillolo at a considerable
distance, nearly to the north part of the large Island of Batchian ; and all these islands
are generally bold to approach, with safe passages between thera, and a good channel
between them and Gillolo.
The only known dangers are two small sand-banks, dry at low water, almost 5 miles
East from the middle of the passage between Tidore and Potbaker Island, the next to
the southward of Tidore; these banks are conspicuous when the sun shines, having
then a white appearance; and although they lie in the fair way of ships coming from
Tidore towards the Strait of Patientia, yet by keeping the Gillolo shore aboard in the
night there is no danger. The anchorage at the Island Mackian, althougli near the
shore, is tolerably safe, in about lat. 0° 24' N., off Fort Reeburg, at the N. E. part of
the island. November 26th, 1814, the Scaleby Castle anchored in 35 fathoms, sand
and shells, with Fort Reeburg S.W., off shore a quarter of a mile ; the current then
setting southward. She had previously passed from the westward between Mackian
and Moone, the latter being the next island, northward of Mackian, and lying between
it and Potbaker Island.
Latta Islands. GERFTSIUS, or LATTA ISLANDS, are a group of small isles and rocks south-
westward of Mackian, not considered dangerous to approach in daylight, for most of
Wolf Rook, the rocks are visible. Wolf Rock, in lat. 0° 30' N., Ion. 127° 6' E., distant 17 leagues
West of Gillolo, is the northernmost and outermost of these, and being level with the
surface of the water, ought to have a good berth in the night. H. M. S. Virginia saw
the sea breaking over this rock, which was visible in the hollow of the swell ; the Peak
of Ternate bears from it N. £. f N., distant 43 miles, another of the Molucca Islands
bears from it S. E. by E., distant 4 leagues, and a small isle off the north end of the
latter is about the same distance from it, bearing E. by S.
MOLUCCA ISLANDS. 695
BATCHIAN, TAWALLY, and MAREGOLANG, are three large islands front- Batchian,»nd
ing- the S.W. part of Gillolo, with numerous small islands contiguous to them, most of -^^^l"^
which are safe to approach. Batchian is a high island, extending about la leagues in
a S. S. £. direction, its southern extreme being parallel with the south end of Gillolo ;
the Strait of Patientia is formed between them. The Strait of Batchian is
formed betwixt the west coast of the island of this name and the adjacent islands.
The southern part is broad, and there is good anchorage in most places, with shelter in
some of the bays or harbours formed by the islands; but tlie tide in the north part of
the strait runs very strong. Both these straits are considered safe for ships, with
proper attention ; but that of Patientia is considered the best, being wider tlian the
other, although destitute of good anchorage, except in some bays on the Batchian
shore. The tide sets tlirougii among those islands to the northward and southward, ndes.
about G hours each way, although not always regular, and it rises about feet.
The Dutch frigate Maria Reygcrsbergen, in 1805, went from Amboina to Ternate,
through the Strait of Patientia, and returned by the same route, and her journal con-
tains the following remarks.
NEGORY KALAM is a village on the west coast of Gillolo, having good an- xegory
chorage off it in 25 and 30 fathoms, stiff ground. A little to the southward of tlie ^"'^'"•
village there is a fresh water river, where abundance of wood, water, and refresh-
ments may be procured. When at anchor here, the north point of Kavo bore
S. by W. i W., Potter Island W. by N., Motir S.W. by W., and Mackian S.VV. byS.
The Point 2 miles to the northward of the village is in lat. 8° 28' N., Ion. 127° 37' E.
The Island Kayo extends from lat. 0° 7' N. to 0° 1' S., and is in Ion. 127° 23^' E. Kayo.
The point of Gillolo, which bounds the eastern side of Patientia Strait in coming from Paticmia
northward, is in lat. 0° 13' S., Ion. 127° 45^' E. ; West from it about 7 miles lies ^'™"-
Batto Lombo Island, close to the Batchian shore, which bounds the entrance of the
strait, on the western side. Between the N. E. point of this island and the [)oint of
Batchian, called Bristly Point, lie two islands near the sliore, and to tiie southward of
the point and southernmost of these islands there is a large bay, witli good anchorage, WateriDc
and plenty of wood and water. places.
When through the narrows, and to the S. Westward of West Island, close to the
shore of Batchian, is Lelary Island, low, long, and flat, covered with trees: opposite
to its N. E. point, there is a fresh water river on the Batchian shore, where plenty of
wood and water maybe obtained. Amsterdam Island, in the middle of the narrows, Amsterdam
is in lat. 0° 20^' S., Ion. 127° 53^' E. by chronometer from Amboina. '*"'"''•
The S. E. extremity of Batchian, called John Heneker Point, in lat. 0° 48' S., Ion. John Hcmker
128° .3'E., has soundings of deep water within a small distance of the shore, with some '''""'■
contiguous isles and projecting spits, wliich should liave a proper berth.
The best i-oute from Ternate or Tidore to Amboina, in the S. E. monsoon, is con- Directions tor
sidered to be through the Strait of Patientia. After the reduction of Ternate by the Xe7tnl,w'^''
British, the Albion, Captain >\ allace, sailed from Tidore, July 8th, 1801, having troops Paientia, to-
on board for Amboina, and proceeded through this strait. She stood over towards tlie '^^'„^_
Gillolo sliore, in order to avoid the sand-banks which lie nearly half channel over from
the south end of Tidore, then worked southward, betwixt Batchian and (iillolo, with
variable winds and much rain. After approaching the group of isles called Amster-
dam, East and West Islands, and others which nearly bar the midille of the strait, she
went through a very narrow jiassage, between Batchian and West Island, which is the
nearest isle to the eastward; and here the tide was exceedingly rapid. This passage
696
MOLUCCA ISLANDS.
ought not to be chosen, for the other passage to the eastward of it is much broader.
Captain M'Call came through the latter in the Clyde, and found it perfectly safe, when
passing through the Strait of Patientia, shortly after the Albion : in proceeding
through it, no soundings were obtained.
Having got through the narrows, stand over to Gillolo, and keep along this shore,
because a shoal is placed in the Dutch charts eastward of East Island ; and the Middle
Sand, in the southern mouth of the strait, nearly mid-way between the east point of
Batchian and the Gillolo shore, must have a berth in passing ; on either side of it the
channel is safe. When it is approached, a number of small isles surrounded with
reefs will be discerned, which must also have a berth in steering out of the strait
to the southward for Oby Major ; and after passing through any of the channels
to the eastward of the latter island, already noticed in the section where the Gillolo
Passage is described, proceed to the southward, betwixt Manipa and the east end of
Bouro.
Bouro.
Cajeli Bay.
The Fort.
Directions for
sailing to the
anchorage.
BOURO ISLAND has been mentioned, and the geographical situation of its
north coast described, in the section where instructions are given for sailing through
Pitt Passage ; but it becomes necessary here to describe the great bay, and the adja-
cent islands.
Cajeli, or Bouro Bay, at the N. E. part of the Bouro Island, is easily known by the
Island Manipa, which bears East from it. The points on both sides the entrance are
lined by reefs, and no soundings are got until near the shore inside the bay ; there is
good anchorage on the north side, within the rounding of the point, from which
a reef of coral stretches out a little distance; but the proper road is at the S. E.
part of the bay, where Fort Defence and the village are situated in lat. 3° 24' S.,
Ion. 127° 4' E. by chronometers from Amboina, and the mean of many lunar observa-
tions.
To enter the bay with a turning wind, do not approacii near the points on either
side, nor borrow into the north side of it ; the southern shore is fronted by an extensive
coral reef, to the distance of a mile or more, which shews itself, and may be always
avoided with a good look-out. With a fair wind, steer westward about mid-way be-
tween the points, until the western pitch of the south bluff point bears about S.W.,
and when the town begins to open in view, haul gradually W. S.W. and S.W. till the
north point of the bay bear to the eastward of North. By keeping the point in this
direction, and the fort South or S. | E., you will pass clear of the reef which projects
about a mile from the east side the bay, and will go between it and the pitch of a dat that
extends a mile off the western shore.
There is a rugged mount or double peak on the south side the bay, called the
Mother and Daughter, which is a good mark : steer into the bay until this mount
bears about S. E. by S., then haul right in for the town, and anchor off it in 27 to 24
fathoms, muddy bottom, at the distance of a mile, or three-quarters of a mile, from the
beach, with the fort bearing South or S. by W., a small Red Island East, and the north
point of the bay N. ^ E. The best berth is in 19 fathoms, with the fort bearing
S. by W. i W. distant one mile. Mother and Daughter S. E., east point of the bay
N. E. i E:, and the N.W. point N.W. by N.
A ship may anchor with the fort bearing from S. S. E. to S. S.W. ; but as the bank
is steep, sail ought to be reduced in time, and the anchor should not be dropped under
25 fathoms ; this is indispensable to the westward of the fort, where the water shoals
from 20 fathoms, as fast as the lead can be hove, to 2 fathoms, hard sand, whereby
MOLUCCA ISLANDS. 697
several ships have grounded in coming to anchor. The fort ought not to be brought
to the eastward of S. S. E., for the hard sand-bank lining the west side the bay pro-
jects nearly a mile from the shore, liaving only 2 or 3 fatlioms water on it, and 35
fathoms at the distance of a cable's length outside. If a ship by accident get to the
westward, she ought to anchor in 40 fathoms, mud, and will then be about 2 cables'
lengths from the edge of the bank.
The coral reef that fronts the S. E. shore of the bay has only 3 or 4 feet water over
the rocks, and there are 40 fathoms about 2 or 3 cables' lengths outside; therefore, it
ought not to be approached under 40 or 45 fathoms.
In this bay ships are sheltered during both monsoons, and as brisk land winds pre- Refreshments.
vail in the niglit, the egress is easy. Goats, hogs, fowls, and venison, may be procured
sufficient for two or three ships, and abundance of fruit of various kinds. The water is
good, and procured about 100 yards eastward of the fort, but as long boats cannot come
close to the shore, it is necessary to float the casks off to them. Wood is plentiful,
and s])ars fit for masts may be got from the durian-tree ; the Cai-pooty tree abounds
on this island, from which the natives extract the valuable oil thus named, in great
quantities.
The tides rise and fall about 6 feet, but are not regular. It is high water at 1 hour Tides,
on full and change of moon. Variation 1° West in 1798.
Close to the west end of Bouro there are some small islands, and the Dutch charts southern coast
place a rock above water about 2 or 2^ leagues ofl' the S. W. part. The southern "fi^""™
coast is of semicircular form, steep to approach, and destitute of shelter : from the
southernmost point, in lat. 3° 49' S., a reef projects considerably, having a small isle
to the eastward, said to have anchorage close to it.
AMBLAW, in lat. 3° 52' S., Ion. 127° 14' E,* is an island of considerable size, Amb!a«-.
separated from the S. E. point of Bouro by a channel 5 or 6 miles wide: there is said
to be a reef of rocks nearly in the middle of this channel, which is laid down in several
charts ; but it is omitted in a large Dutch manuscript chart in my possession, and
some navigators state the channel to be clear of danger. Close to the shore of Ara-
blaw there is a place where Dutch vessels occasionally anchor, but the bottom ap-
pears to be foul.
MA NIP A is a high island, about half-way betwixt the east end of Bouro and the Manipa.
west end of Ceram, the body of it being in lat. 3° 17' S., Ion. 127° 28' E.1 About 1^
miles oft' its western extreme, lies a rock or islet, betwixt which and iManipa there is
a safe passage for a ship. The channel between this islet and Bouro, called the Strait
of Bouro, or Manipa Passage, is about 5^ leagues wide, clear of danger, destitute of
soundings, and is used by all ships passing betwixt Bouro and Ceram. On the south
side of Manipa is a fort, oft" which, and within a small islet, there is anchorage close
to the shore : some small islets lie close to the north side of Manipa.
BONOA, inaboutlat. 3°0'S., Ion. 127° 56' E., is a high, rugged, steep island, of con- Bo„oa.
siderable extent N.E. and S.W., sei)arated from the N.W. part of Ceram by a safe
channel, 3 or 4 miles wide, which is contracted a little by small isles and shoals that
stretch along the Ceram shore.
* The frigate Maria Reygersbergen made the south point in lat. 3° 57' S., Ion. 127" 20^' E. by chronome-
ter from Amboina.
f Monsieur D'Urville, of the Astrolabe French corvette, places it about 8 miles farther East.
VOL. II. 4 U
698
MOLUCCA ISLANDS.
PuioBaby. PULO BABY, to the S.S.W. of Bonoa, is lower than the adjacent islands; it is
separated from the west jjoint of Cerain by a narrow passage, called Nassouwens Gat,
fit only for proas and small vessels.
Keiang. KELANG is a high island, close to, and S. Westward of Pulo Baby, there being
no passage between them ; but there is a safe channel 3 miles wide, betwixt Kelang
Tides. and Manipa, wiiicli lies to the S. W. of the former island. The tides or currents
which set through these channels sometimes produce strong ripplings resembling
breakers, and they make a great noise when there is a calm in the night.
Ceram. CERAM, excepting some parts near the sea, is formed of mountainous land, extend-
ing nearly East and West about 54 leagues ; the S. W. point, called Seeal, or Dry Rice
Point, is inlat. .3° 31' S., Ion. 127° oO'E., and forms a peninsula, with Lahoo Deep Bay
to the N. E. This bay has some small islands and shoals at the entrance, with sound-
ings inside, and is to the northward of Amboina ; for Seeal Point lies directly North
from the N. W. extremeof that island. Captain Hunter, of the ship Marshall Bennett,
describes a small harbour, called Wahaay, on the north side of Ceram, which, although
very confined, not being much more than a quarter of a mile wide between the coral
banks which line its shore, is advantageous above many other places, being a free
port, and affording a plentiful supply of wood and water, and other refreshments.
It requires a leading wind to enter ; during the Easterly Monsoon the weather is fine,
with regular land and sea breezes, the Westerly Monsoon being the wet and squally
season. General depths in the harbour are from 15 to 22 fathoms.*
Amahay Bay, northward of the small island Noesa Laut, has soundings of deep
water. The south coast of Ceram is bold to approach, except Hoya Point, 9 or 10
leagues eastward of' Amahay Bay, which has a small sandy isle and sand-banks,
stretching out from it about 2 miles. Two islands, called the Great and Little KefBng
or Kessing, lie close to the S. E. point of Ceram, and are nearly united to it by a
coral reef: the channel which separates these from Ceram being narrow, is not easily
discerned. The East point of the Keffing Islands, according to Lieutenant Kolft', of
the Dutch Navy, is in lat. 3° 50' S., Ion. 130° 45' E. ; it has been placed in our charts
several miles farther to the south-eastward ; but as Lieutenant Kolff'came direct from
Banda, it is probable that his position is not far from the truth. Within 7 leagues of
Keffing Point, a coral reef lines the coast from thence eastward, and around Keffing
Island.
sawaBay. Sawa Bay, on the north coast of Ceram, in lat. 2°51'S., Ion. 129° 6' E., has the
outer island Pulo Bassar, and several small isles surrounded by shoals, stretching out
2 or 3 miles from the low point, called Tanjong Craw,t which forms the west point of
the bay ; and the islands near the shore at the S. E. part of the bay are also sur-
rounded by shoals. The channel leading to Sawa Road or Harbour is to the west-
ward of the latter, by steering South for a mount called Friar's Hood, at the bottom
of the bay, near the village Selema ; and having rounded the reef and islands fronting
Sawa Road, haul along shore to the eastward, and anchor near it, with Pulo Attuee,
the westernmost island, bearing North. This road is about three-quarters of a mile
in breadth, with soundings of 40 to 25 fathoms close to the Ceram shore, which is the
safe side, as there is a reef S. E. of Pulo Attuee. Although the water be deep, the
bottom is mud, affording good anchorage : and this place forms a good harbour in the
* Naut. Mag. for 1842, p. 1.
t In the Dutch frigate's journal it is called Para Point, and placed in lat. 2^ 49 S., Ion. 129° 12^' E.
MOLUCCA ISLANDS. 699
South-east Monsoon ; excellent fresh water may be procured, and large spars. Sawa
Villa.^e is in lat. 2° ,56' S. Old Lamata, or Flat Point, lies to the eastward, in lat. Fiat Point.
2°5:i'S., Ion. 129°42i'E.
AVaroo, or Wakoo Bay, in lat. 3° 25' S., about Ion. 130'' 40' E., is on the N. E. of warooBay.
the island Ceram, affording good anchorage, where water and other refreshments may
be procured.*
Leeuwaarden Shoal, in lat. 2°.56'S., Ion. 1 30° 4.31' E., or 2° 44' East of AUang Leeuwaarden
Point, Amboina Bay, by chronometers, is distant about 7 miles from the shore that ^^°^^'
forms the N.W. side of Waroo Bay : it is 2 or 3 miles in extent, in form a crescent,
steep to, and very dangerous, the west side being a white sand-bank, and tiie eastern
side a ledge of rocks, with high breakers, many of the rocks above water. The ship
Venus, of Bombay, got upon this shoal in 1799, during the night, and was abandoned
by the crew. There are no soundings near the slioal, nor in the channel between it
and the shore, which is considered safe.
If coasting with an offing of 7 or 8 miles from the high land of Stole, you bring the
Friar's Hood to bear S. by W. | W., or when you open the Friar's Hood to the east-
ward of the high land of Stole, you will then be on a line with the west point of the
shoal.
Leeuwaarden Island, in lat. 3° 20' S., Ion. 130° 58' E., is to the northward of the Leeuwaarden
east point of Waroo Bay, called Berg Wakoo by the Dutch. ^''''"'^•
To the eastward of Keffing, and the reef that surrounds it and the east end of isicsaiui
Ceram, there is a small isle, betwixt which and Keffing, a channel is formed about 2 the"ast^nd of
or 3 miles wide, with soundings from 30 to 50 fathoms in mid-channel, and 5 to 10 ceram.
fathoms close to the reefs ; the narrowest part of tl)is channel seems to be about a
mile inb readth, and it is thought to be safe.
CERAM LAUT bears about East, 6 miles distant from the south point of Keffing, ceram Laut.
and is the westernmost and largest of a range of small islands, chained together and
surrounded by a reef, that extends 5 or leagues nearly East and West. Ceram Laut,
according to Lieutenant Kolff, is in lat. 3° 50' S., Ion. 130^59' E. There is anchorage
on the N. W. side of the island of Kilwari, wliich lies on the N.W. side of Ceram
Laut, but tiie bottom is bad. There is said to be a safe but narrow channel between
this island and Ghissa.
A group of three islands lies to the eastward of the Ceram Laut chain, of which
GozAM, or GoRAM, is the easternmost; its eastern point is in 4° 3' S., Ion. 131° 50' E. oozam.
There is a channel westward of this island, but no safe passage between the west-
ernmost one and Ceram Laut chain. Tlie southern island of tlie Gozam group, situated
S.W. of Gozam, has a high, flat hill on it, is of considerable extent, and called
Manavolka.
THE MATABELLA ISLANDS lie 20 miles S. E. from the Gozam group, the Maubeiias.
channel between being safe and capacious ; and 6 miles farther to the southward lie
tliree more, but smaller islands, ^^llen the Triton Dutcii corvette, Captain Steenboom,
* The inhabitants of the villages on the coast of Ceram are generally/ hospitable to Europeans, who touch
for refreshments, or to trade ; but they are in a state of abject and savage poverty. The natives of this island
ai-e said to liave devoured the jirisoners procured by their depredations against each otiicr, which practice has
ceased since the Dutch purchased them as slaves, they arc timid assassins, and generally make their depreda-
tions in the night ; skulls hung in their huts as trophies of valour are still freiiuently seen. An officer, who
has been much among those people, says tiiat the young men must produce a skull of a human victim, each to
his intended bride, before she will consent to accept him for a husband.
4 L 2
700
MOLUCCA ISLANDS.
returned from New Guinea in 1828, she found a safe and wide channel between the
two groups ; these may be easily distinguished from each other, as the southern ex-
treme of tiie Matabellas is a small table-hill, and the whole of that group is hilly,
while these islets are small and low. The north-easternmost of them is in lat. 4° 32' S.,
TehororTaw. Ion. 132° 5' E. Next comes the island of Tehor or Taw, and then 5 or 6 islands ex-
tending upwards of 20 miles to the southward ; but none of these are well known.
Tiie channels between them are, however, said to be safe, and the Triton passed
through them on her voyage to New Guinea. The natives, who resemble those of the
Ki Islands, are simple and industrious, and they produce rice and Indian corn, which
are sold to the people of Banda and New Guinea.
Amboina
Island.
Fort Victoria.
AMBOINA is a high island, about 11 or 12 leagues in extent N. E. and S. W.,
being the largest of those called the Clove Islands, and it is the chief residence of the
government of the Molucca Islands. Three small isles, called the Three Brothers,
project from its N.W. point in a northerly direction, having safe passages between all
of them, also betwixt the southern one and Amboina. The great bay extends about
Amboina Bay. 7 leagues iuto the island, separating it nearly into two parts. Amboina Bay is
formed at the entrance by two high points, that of Allang on the west side, and
Noessaniva Point to the eastward : they are steep to, situated in lat. 3° 47' S., and
bear nearly East and West of each other, distant 6 or 7 miles. About three cables'
lengths from Noessaniva Point in a S. S. E. direction, there is a narrow banic of sand
stretching East and West, having soundings of 15 to 30 fathoms on it, upon which a
ship might anchor when calm. It is detached from the shore, for no ground is got
when Allang and Noessaniva Points are just open, or touching each other.
Inside of Noessaniva Point there is a small concavity, called Portuguese Bay ; but
no soundings are obtained on either side, at the distance of a cable's length from the
shore, nor within half a cable's length in many places, until well up. Fort Vic-
toria, on the south shore of the bay, in lat. 3° 40' S., Ion. 128° 15' E.,* by a series of
observations of > *, taken by Captain Heywood, in two different voyages; these
corresponded exactly with his chronometers in a quick run of 11 days from Malacca,
in H. M. frigate Dedaigneuse, in December, 1802, which made the flagstaff 26° 0' E.
from Malacca.
The best anchorage is abreast the town, or rather above the wharf, in from 25 to 40
or 45 fathoms water, on a steep bank, stretching about four cables' lengths from the
beach. Close below the fort, a sand projects a little distance, having near it 34 fa-
thoms water.
It is prudent to moor with the anchors nearly up and down the bay, that in case of
parting from one, the other anchor may bring a ship up, before she tail upon the shore.
As the bottom is foul in several places, this precaution is more necessary ; some ships
carry a hawser or cable to one of the anchors, placed at convenient distances on the
shore, to prevent being driven off the bank. The distance from Fort Victoria, across
the bay to the opposite shore, is about 2 miles : there are no soundings in mid-channel,
but there is anchorage opposite the town and fort, near the western shore, where a
ship may bring up, in case of being driven from the anchorage at the town. There
is also anchorage in Dutch Bay, on the eastern shore, about 2 miles below the fort
and town.
Anchorage.
* This longitude of Fort Victoria is according to the observations of other navigators, beside those of Cap-
tain Heywood. The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers made it in Ion. 128^ 13|' E.,
measured from Batavia.
MOLUCCA ISLANDS.
701
To sail into
the bay.
The tides in the bay are very irregular, being governed chiefly by the winds and rides
rise about 6 or 7 feet. The course up the bay is N. E. by E., and the distance from
Allang Point to the anchorage at Fort \ ictoria is about 5 leagues.
The best time to enter between the heads, in the Westerly Monsoon, is in tiie morn-
ing, betwixt daylight and 8 or 9 a.m. ; and by keeping nearly in mid-channel, incliniu"-
to the N. Western shore, a ship will generally carry a breeze up to the anchorage
off the town. During the night, light variable airs or calms generally prevail, ac-
companied with an outset, which renders the progress up the bay difficult" and tedious •
for ships are liable to be drifted about by the eddies, or probably out of the ba' '
after getting half-way up by a favourable breeze. There is, however, no danger to be
apprehended in entering it during the night ; for although a ship may seem to 'be drift-
ing towards the beach on either side by the tides when calm, wiiere no anchorin"-
ground is to be got, yet, when the shore is approached within a certain distance, the
ship will generally be set along parallel to it, or drifted off again into the middle of
the bay.
In the Easterly Monsoon, as the current frequently sets strong past the points of the
bay to the westward, a ship coming from this direction ought to work up in the
offing until Noessaniva Point bear N. N. E. or N. by E. ; she should then steer to
round it pretty close, keeping along the southern shore of the bay at a modei-ate dis-
tance, under low sail ; for the sudden gusts of wind which come off thehills at times
might endanger the masts with light sails set.
A .ship may be supplied with water, fruit, and vegetables, at Amboina, but fresh uefre^i.ments.
provisions are scarce ; bullocks, deer, &c., are brought from Bouro and the adjacent
islands at times, for tiie use of the garrison, but not in sufficient quantity to afford any
regular supply to sliips. Strong gales are often experienced in the Westerly Monsoon,
about full and change of moon, which are generally preceded by a great swell tum-
bling into the bay.
Inner Harbour, at the upper part of the bay, being well sheltereil from all winds, inner
is generally resorted to by small ships at the approach of blowing weather; but the ^^'^''"'^
entrance into it being narrow, a pilot is requisite to carry a ship through the channel.
This place is considered to be unhealthy, for the crews of ships are .sometimes very
sickly here, when those in the outer harbour continue healtliy. The wateriu"- river is
on the western shore, about 7 or 8 miles from Fort Victoria, and known by a house
on each side of it, at a small distance. With the assistance of hoses, the casks are
filled speedily ; but a loaded long boat can only float out at high water.
The head of the inner harbour is separated by a small istlimus from a bav on the
east side the island, which has soundings and some shoals in it, but is not frecpiented
by ships.
The northern sliore of Amboina is clear of danger, and the channel betwixt the
N. W. Brother and Ceram is 4 or 5 miles wide ; but the currents or tides among those
islets are strong, and not regular.
HARAUCKA, or OMA, is separated from the eastern part of .Amboina by a na- Haraucka
vigable channel, about a league wide, wiiich is contracted to a mile at the northern ''''''"''•
entrance, by a sandy islet contiguous to Amboina: this islet is safe to approach, but
the Haraucka shore opposite is foul, and there is a fort on tiie west side tliis island.
HONIMOA, or SAPAROOA ISLAND, lies close East of Haraucka, thccliannel Jionimo.
that separates them being only a mile wide in the narrowest part, destitute of anchorage, '*'""''•
702
BAND A ISLANDS.
Anchorage.
Noesa Laut.
Channel be-
tween those
islands and
Cerani.
and subject to strong currents or tides; a vessel in going- through it must therefore
keep near the Haraucka shore. The south point of Honiraoa, called the Dolphin's
Nose, is in lat. 3°38'S., distant about 12 leagues E. by N. ^ N. from the entrance of
Amboina Bay : there is an islet close to it, called Pigeon Island, and the small island
Malana lies about 2 miles to S.W. Separooa Village and Fort Durrstede are
situated at the bottom of the bay, which is formed between the South and S. E. points
of the island; there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms near the fort in the Westerly
Monsoon, by steering in about mid-channel, between the reefs that line both sides the
bay, but no soundings are got until within a mile of the fort.
NOESA LAUT, in lat. 3° 40' S., Ion. 128° 53' E., is small, separated from the S. E.
point of Honimoa by a safe channel, about 2 miles wide ; it is the easternmost of the
Clove Islands, and produces the best cloves of any of them. Foul ground projects
around it to the distance of a c^uarterof a mile, but there is said to be anchorage at the
north part, and off the N.W. part, where there is a fortified house.
The four islands above mentioned, generally called the Clove Islands, are of mid-
dling height ; but the high land of Ceram being near them to the northward, they
appear as part of it until closely approached. When a ship is working between them
and Ceram, she ought to give a berth to the north part of Haraucka, and the N.W.
end of Honimoa, because foul ground projects from them about a mile; whereas, the
Ceram shore, abreast these islands, is bold to approach.
Anchorage.
Sailing direc-
tions.
is at the foot of the Burning
Banda Lsiands. THE BANDA ISLA NDS fomi a gToup, ten in number, lying near each other;
the harbour is formed by Great Banda on the south side; Goonong Apee, or Burning
Mountain, and Banda Neira on the north side ; with two isles at the eastern entrance,
one called Pulo Pisang, and the other, from its resembling a ship's hull, Pulo Cappel;
the latter is very small. These islands, being high, are subject to sudden gusts of wind,
with hot, oppressive weather in the day, but the nights are cool
The anchorage, in lat. 4° 31' S., Ion. 130° O'E.,*
Mountain, which generally emits smoke ; shocks of earthquakes are frequent.
The eastern channel is safe to enter Banda Harbour, giving a berth of half a mile to
the shore of Great Banda, and to that of Banda Neira : a ship may pass on either side
Pulo Pisang and Pulo Cappel, and when to the southward of them, the channel is
about 3 miles wide. The anchorage is abreast the wharf at Banda Neira, in 7 or 8
fathoms. The Orpheus Bank, which has only 15 feet on it at low water spring tides,
will be avoided by not shutting in the eastern point of Great Banda w ith the low S. E.
point of Banda Neira, and anchoring with Pulo Way, or Ay, just shut in with the point
of Goonong Apee, and Battakeeka Fort, on the hill N. by E., distant about half a mile
off the wharf.
Tides. It is high Water on the shore at 2 hours on full and change of moon, and the rise of
tide is about 9 or 10 feet. At the anchorage it is high water at 4 hours, where the
tides are strong, but not regular ; it is therefore proper to moor immediately.
Ships can only go in by the western channel in the Westerly Monsoon, which is
formed between Goonong Apee and Great Banda ; a reef projects from the western
part of Great Banda to nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage to a quarter of a
mile, making it necessary to kee|) close to Goonong Apee shore, which is steep to.
The extreme of Pulo Way kept just touching open with the extremity of Goonong
* The frigate Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers and observations made the anchorage in lat. 4° 33' S.,
Ion. 130= 5,^'' E.
BANDA SEA.— TURTLE AND LUCEPARA ISLANDS. 703
Apee will lead a ship to the anchorage. This channel is frequented by ships coming
in during the Westerly Monsoon, and by those going out in the opposite season.
There is a passage between Goonong Apee and Banda Neira, but it being very nar-
row, with rapid tides, and destitute of good anchorage, it is seldom used except by
small vessels.
Tlie harbour of Banda bears E.S. E., about 40 leagues distant from A^oessaniva
Point, at the entrance of Ainboina Harbour, and 18 leagues S.W. from Keffing Point
on Ceram.
Rosingeyn Island lies about 4 miles eastward of Great Banda ; Pulo Way and Pulo
Rhun lie to the westward. Pulo Way bears nearly West 7 miles from Goonong Apee,
and E. by N. ^ N. 4 miles from Pulo Rhun, betwixt which the passage is said to be
unsafe. The northernmost island of the group, called Pulo Swangy, bears nearly
N. ^ W. from Pulo Way.
The islands Great Banda, Banda Neira, Rosingeyn, and Pulo Way, produce excel-
lent nutmegs ; the soil of these islands being more favourable for the culture of the
nutmeg tree than the soil of Amboina.
Banda Neira is well fortified, particularly in the western channel, and here resides
the governor of these islands.
TflE TURTLE ISLANDS, three in number, are very low ; they are covered with Turtle islands,
trees, and dangerous to approach in the night, being fronted by coral reefs which pro-
ject 2 or 3 miles from them. The easternmost island is in kit. 5^ 25' S., Ion.
127° 38' E.,* bearing from the entrance of Amboina Harbour S. by W. ^ W., distance
about 33 leagues. The westernmost island is separated considerably from the other
two, for the Sibbald had the easternmost island bearing N. N.W. ^ W., distant 10 miles,
seen from the deck, with the trees on another island open to the westward of it, just
visible from the poop, when the S. Westernmost island was seen from the mizcn-top-
mast rigging, bearing about W. N.W.
LUCEPARA ISLANDS, or LUCAPIN-HAY,in lat.5°40' S.,| Ion. 127° 21'E. Lucepar..
by chronometer from Amboina, lie about 5 or 6 leagues to tiie S.W. of the Turtle ^'^'""^^■
Islands ; they form a group of five low isles, covered witli trees, and cannot be
seen above 4 leagues from the deck. The passage betwixt them and the Turtle Islands
is safe in daylight, being 4 leagues wide ; the frigate JMaria Reygersbergen passed
through it with her convoy in 1805, when bound from Batavia to Amboina.
GOONONG APEE, or BURNING ISLAND, in lat. 6° 35' S., Ion. 120° 40' E., Goonong
or 1° 35' West from Amboina Flagstafi' by chronometer, bearing S.W. | 8. from Luce- -^p"-
para Islands, distant 23 leagues, is a high conical mountain, visible 15 or 10 leagues. It
is in a state of ignition, with smoke generally issuing from the crater at the summit.
and is bold to approach.
SHIPS proceeding from AMBOINA to BANDA during the strength of the ^^^^/™""
Easterly Monsoon, in July, August, and September, should stretch to the soutinvard, u^^d^" "
and they will generally fetch the coast of Timor. Here the current runs often strong
* Captain Forbes, in the Sibliakl, saw these islands, April 20th, 1816, in his passage alons; the north side of
Flores, towards Amboina, and made the easternmost island in lat. 5' 26' S., about Ion. 127° 50' E. ^
t The Dutch frigate's observations place this group farther to the N. E., viz. from lat. 5" 27' to 3° 33' S.,lon.
127' S3' E.
704
PASSAGES TO AND FROM AMBOINA.
Passage from
Amboina to
Hindoostan,
by the north-
ern route in
the Westerly
Monsoon.
Soutliern
route.
to eastward in these months, and the wind becoming variable and veering- more to
southward, enables ships to stand on the starboard tack about N. E. by E., and fetch
Banda. This passage may be performed in six days; whereas, the route to the north-
ward of Ceram, and round its eastern extremity, which is generally pursued by the
Dutch, frequently requires more than double that time.
Ships bound from Amboina, or any of the other Molucca Islands, to Hindoostan,
ought not to attempt the Southern Passage during the strength of the Westerly Mon-
soon ; if they depart before the month of March, the northern route is preferable, par-
ticularly when bound to Bengal or the Strait of Malacca.
Departing from Amboina to proceed to the northern route, ships should endeavour
to get over towards the Island Amblaw, and keep the east side of Bouro aboard, that
they may benefit by its land winds and squalls, and avoid the S. E. currents which
frequently prevail between Ceraui and Amboina, and near Manipa, in the Westerly
Monsoon. When abreast the north point of Bouro Bay, the wind will generally per-
mit ships to stand over about N. N. E. for Gomona and Oby Major; they should then
proceed through the Gillolo Passage, or betwixt Geby and Gagy, as circumstances
lequire. Having cleared this passage, the progress will be slow, for soutli-ea.>!iterly
currents prevail, with light N.W. and northerly winds, accompanied at times by squalls
and rain. Every means ought to be used to get to the northward in this track, with-
out minding if a little easting is made ; for after reaching lat. 5° or 6° N., the north-
easterly winds may be expected, with which to run to the westward.
Having in these latitudes got within the verge of the North-east Monsoon, the best
track is to steer to the northward of the Meangis Islands, for the south point of Minda-
nao ; and after passing between it and the Serangani Islands, a course should be pursued
through the Strait of Baseelan, because the winds hang as much to the westward as to
the eastward of North. If a ship enter this strait in the morning, with a breeze from
the Mindanao shore, she will probably get through before night, if the tide happen to
be in her favour; she ought to keep along the north side of the strait betwixt the
Santa Cruz Islands and Mindanao, where water and refreshments may be got at Sam-
boangan, if required.
From Samboangan, a W. N. Westerly course ought to be followed, to pass to the
North of the Islands Sangboy and Teynga ; from thence, steer for Cagayan Sooloo,
and having passed it, a course ought to be steered to get into the latitude of Banguey
Peak, when 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of the Mangsee Islands. After passing through
this strait, betwixt these islands and the north part of Banguey, a course should be
pursued for the Strait of Malacca, agreeably to the sailing directions which are given
for those places in the preceding sections of this work, and where the descriptions of
them will be found.
Ships from Amboina bound to Hindoostan in March may proceed by the southern
passage, and as the winds hang mostly from the westward in this month, it is advisable
to stand up towards Bouro, and from thence work over near St. Matthew Islands.
Having approached these and Velthoen Island, a southerly course ought to be fol-
lowed, and if the wind is favourable, it may be prudent for a ship to kee|) well to
windward, and pass through the Strait of Alloo. This strait is preferable to that of
Pantar, being much wider, and farther to windward in the Westerly Monsoon ; and
when clear of it, a ship ought to keep to westward, in order to proceed through the
channel between Sandalwood Island and Savu, into the open sea ; or she may pass out
on the east side of the latter island, if the wind be unfavourable for proceeding through
any of the channels farther westward.
VAN DIEMEN LAND, WEST COAST.
705
Departing from Ainboina in April, May, June, July, or August, steer for Burning-
Island, for in April the Westerly Monsoon fails, and is succeeded by light south-
easterly breezes. Care must be taken to give a berth to the Lucepara Islands, in pass-
ing towards Burning Island, which may also be left to the eastward ; observing that
the current sets often strongly to the westward in the Easterly Monsoon : from thence,
steer to make the west end of Wetta, or Dog Island, and proceed betwixt Pulo Cam-
bing and the east end of Ombay, and between the latter and Timor, through the
Ombay Passage. Being once so far to the southward as Rotto or Savu, the S. E.
winds will begin gradually to increase in strength, and a course may be steered to pass
out to the southward of Savu. The passage from hence to Ilindoostan may be
accomplished in from 20 to 30 days by a ship that sails well.
If bound from Amboina, or Banda, to Batavia in these months, you should, if leav-
ing Banda, steer to make the high island of Roma, giving a berth to a shoal that lies
about 8 miles off its N.W. point, then pass to the North of Wetta. From hence, steer
for Pulo Cambing, and along the north coast of Flores, passing between it and Rusa
Raji, if thought necessary, then along the north coasts of Sumbawa and Lombock ;
having brought the latter to bear to the southward, steer to pass to the north-eastward
of Urk, and between Kangelang and the Four Brothers ; otherwise, you may steer
from Lombock to pass between Hog Island and Galion, and afterwards along the
north side of Madura and Java.
VAN DIEMEN LAND.
VAN DIEMEN LAND AND THE CONTIGUOUS PORTS, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.
THE PASSAGE to CHINA round to the eastward of Australia has been de- Passage to
scribed in Volume First of this work, in which directions are given for sailing towards Ne«*no"ana.
Van Diemen Land, and through Bass Strait, with an account of the principal head-
lands, islands, the winds, and weather. It seems proper, nevertheless, to give farther
directions for sailing into the places of shelter in Van Diemen Land, and those on the
coast of Australia, where ships bound to China or to Port Jackson may procure fresh
water, or repair any slight injury sustained by stormy weather.
VAN DIEMEN LAND,* on the western side, is generally a rocky shore, of sterile westem coast
aspect, with reefs fronting it to the distance, in some places, of 3 or -1 miles ; and a men 'Land"^'
considerable south-westerly swell usually rolls in upon it from the ocean. In many
places this coast is low, but in several parts the inland mountains stretch nearly down
to the sea, having a barren and white appearance.
CAPE GRIM, in lat. 40° 43' S., Ion. 144° 42' E., the N.W. extremity of Van capc Grim.
Diemen Land, and the southern boundary of the west entrance of Bass Strait, is a
* The soiitli-eastern coast was discovered by Abel .lanson Tasniaii, in 1642, who named it V,in Diemen Land;
but it was not known to be an island, until Ca'ptain l-"linders and ."Mr. Uass, in 1798-9, sailed round it, under the
direction of Governor Hunter, who gave the name of Bass Strait to the sea that separates it from New Holland,
or Australia.
VOL. II. 4 X
706
VAN DIEMEN LAND, WEST COAST.
and Sandy
Point.
Macquarie
Harbour.
steep black headland, having two contiguous rocks of similar aspect, and is directly to
the southward of Hunter Islands; Sandy Point, the west extreme of the land, is in
lat. 41° 4' S., Ion. 144° 30^^' E. The west coast of Van Diemen Land was thought to
be without shelter for ships ; but two harbours were discovered, in a vessel fitted out
by Mr. Birch, a merchant of Hobart Town, purposely to examine minutely the coasts.
She performed the circumnavigation of the island in 39 days, about the end of 1815,
and discovered the two following harbours.
MACQUARIE HARBOUR (Entrance Island, in lat. 42° 12' S., Ion. 145° 2{y E.),
has on the bar only from 5 to 9 feet, at low water spring tides, with a tide of 5 or
knots, consequently can only admit small vessels passing over the bar ; but when well
inside through Kelly Channel, the water deepens to 10, 20, and 25 fathoms, and de-
creases afterwards gradually, in sailing up this extensive harbour. The brig Sophia,*
Captain Feen, after anchoring in 7 fathoms outside the bar to wait for the flood tide,
crossed over, keeping the starboard shore aboard, and after deepening to 10 fathoms, pro-
ceeded upwards in a narrow channel, between shoals, till 10 miles above the bar ; when
20 miles from the bar, the depths gradually decreased to 2 fathoms. Having proceeded
about 2 miles farther up in the whale boat, the north bank of the harbour was found
to consist of strata of coal, denuded by the sea in some parts : these strata of coal were
6 feet thick, with a stratum of clay between them.
In passing upwards in the boat, the entrance of Gordon River, which empties itself
into the harbour, was computed to be about 50 miles from the bar, and in pursuing a
course up this river, the tirst Jails were discovered nearly 50 miles farther inland ; the
course of the river being through (what was thought) the western moimtains, directly
East from the harbour's mouth.
Captain Feen succeeded in sounding a passage, by which any vessel that can cross the
bar may proceed within half a mile of the/alls, and anchor within 10 yards of the coal
mine. The mountains on the northern shore, where tlie coal is, are barren, but the
rest are generally covered with myrtle and pine. The brig took in a cargo of Huon
pine, by drifting it down the river; this is excellent timber for joiners and cabinet
work, boat-building and architecture.
Captain P. P. King, R. N., who in 1819 made a survey of the entrance to Mac-
quarie Harbour, gives the following marks for crossing the Bar. " The centre of En-
trance Island, in a line with the eastern pitch of the summit of Mount Wellington,
bearing S. 15° E. (true). Mount Wellington is on a point, about a mile inside En-
trance Island, on the western side, and may be easily recognized by its table top, which
is elevated 250 feet above the sea."
In a case of emergency, a ship might anchor in G to 12 fathoms in the outer road,
and be sheltered from S.W. and southerly winds, by Cape Sorell, which bounds the
western side of the harbour's entrance; but she will be exposed to West and N.W.
winds, which do not, however, prevail near the land. Cape Sorell is in lat. 42° 11' S.,
Ion. 145° 17' E., terminating in a low point of straggling bare rocks, with many patches
of rocks or breakers detached from the shore.
Point Hibbs. POINT HIBBS, in lat. 43° 59' S., Ion. 145° 20' E., projects about3 miles from the
coastline, having an extensive reef of breakers on the south side, and a remarkable
pyramidal rock nearly 3 miles to N. E. About 11 miles S. E. by S. from the point
* Belonging to Mr. D. M'Carty, who was then on board, being his second voyage from the Derwent to Mac-
quarie Harbour.
VAN DIEMEN LAND, SOUTH COAST. 707
stands a projecting cliff, with high rocks adjoining, and 2 leagues farther South are
some patches of breakers 2 miles off shore. Rocky Point, in lat. 43° Oj' S., Ion. Rocky Poim.
145° 3.3' E., and 7| leagues S. E. by S. from Point Hibbs, is fronted by a reef. From
Rocky Point the coast takes an easterly direction about 3 leagues, and then southerly
about the same distance, forming a deep concavity.
POINT ST. VINCENT.inlat. 43°16'S.,lon.]45°55'E.,and7leaguesS.E.fE. Point st.
of Rocky Point, having two peaked rocks on its extremity, is a small projecting point of ^'"*^^"'-
land, 5 miles north-westward of the entrance of Port Davey, having about 6 or 7 miles
N. -h E. from it, in lat. 43° 9^' S., Mount De Witt, which is visible 1 1 or 12 leagues. De wut.
PORT DAVEY, in lat. 4.3° 18' S., Ion. 146° 0' E., to the south-eastward of Point Port Davey.
St. Vincent, and nearly 7 or 7^ leagues N.W. by N. of the South-west Cape, is of great
importance to the navigator, being an excellent harbour, separated into two branches,
and extending several miles inland. The principal branch extends in a northerly di-
rection, having moderate depths of water, from 12 to 14 fathoms at the entrance, de-
creasing to 4 fathoms aljout 3 miles up, abreast of a bay or lagoon, which there
branches off to W. S. Westward. The other branch, called Bathurst Harbour, extends
about 3 leagues to the eastward, having several islets in it, with coves or indentations
on either side. The shores of this harbour abound with excellent pine, aud it has the
advantage of a fresh water river. The land on each side the entrance of this port is
rugged and barren, and the pyramidal rocks near the South Head must have a berth
on the starboard hand, when steering into the harbour ; this headland is in lat. 43°2]'S.,
projecting about 2 or 3 miles from the contiguous coast line.
SOUTH-WEST CAPE, in lat. 43° 39' S., Ion. 146° 12' E., is a narrow, steep point, south coast.
extending about a mile from the high land. The Southern coast resembles the west-
ern coast, and the projecting points are generally high, steep, and barren ; some of
them, consisting of whitish stone, have the appearance, when viewed at a distance, of
being covered with snow. There is no inducement for a ship to pass inside the Mew-
stone, and Maat Suykers Isles, which lie to the eastward of the South-west cape; for
although the openings betwixt these and the south cape appear at a distance to afford
shelter, they are thought to be shoal bays, exposed to soutiierly winds : it is therefore
proper to give a good berth to the western and southern coasts, particularly in the
winter months.
SOUTH-EAST, or SOUTH CAPE, in lat. 43° 38' S., Ion. 146° 56' E., bears south-east
about trne East from the South-west Cape, distant 11 or 12 leagues, and has over it ^eX.sTes."''^""
peaked hills.
A good harbour has been discovered on the east side the South Cape, by Mr. Kelly,
in the Henrietta Packet, the southern extremity of its entrance, called the South Head,
being in lat. 43° 30' S. It extends about 20 miles inland, and is said to be capable of
affording good shelter for vessels in bad weather ; but the depth of water, and other
particulars relative to this harbour, have not yet been correctly ascertained.
In the offing, in lat. 43° 51' S., Ion. 147° 8' E., lie the White Rock aud Eddystone,
sometimes called Swilly Rocks, ^^hich are two in number, and the outermost is
generally called the Eddystone. The latter has the appearance of a sail at a dis-
tance; tiie other is a liigh rock, liearing S. <)6° W. from it by compass. There is a
clear passage between them, but a ledge projects to a short distance from their north
"4x2
708
VAN DIEMEN LAND. — D'ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL.
Sidmouth
Rock.
Another rock.
parts, that from the Eddystone being the longest. The Mewstone, in lat. 43° 46' S.,
Ion. 140° 31' E., by Captain King's observations, is a high ragged rock, about 3^
leagues off shore; the channel inside of it, and the two rocliy Maat Suykers Isles
mentioned above, are safe in favourable weatiier.
SIDiMOUTH ROCK, discovered by Captain William Gunner, of the ship Lord
Sidmouth, March 5th, 1819, is about 4 or 5 miles north-eastward of the Eddystone;
the boat was sent to examine this rock, which was found to be about 100 yards in
diameter above the surface of the sea,* with a reef projecting from it about half a mile
to the north-eastward. No bottom with 20 fathoms line could be obtained in sound-
ing all round the rock, and the passage between it and the Eddystone appeared safe.
A rock above water, said to have been seen by the Russian ship Rurick, in 1822,
in lat. 44° S., Ion. 147° 45' E., and 9 leagues E. S. E. from the Eddystone, may pro-
bably be the same rock lately laid down in the Admiralty chart, under the name of
Pedra Branca.
D'Eiitrecas-
teaux Channel.
Port Re-
cherche.
Tasman Head. TASMAN HEAD, in lat. 43° 32' S., Ion. 147° 26' E., bearing N. E. by E.i E.
Islets off it. from the South-east Cape, distant 7 or 8 leagues, is a rocky headland, with three steep
islets and two black rocks off it, called the Friars ; between which and Cape Bruny
to the westward, Bad Bay extends about 3 miles into the south part of Bruny Island,
exposed to the fury of southerly winds. Tasman Head is the southern extremity of
Bruny Island, which is extensive, and stretches northward, separated from the S. E.
part of Van Dienien Land by a navigable strait, or channel, through which. Admiral
D'Entrecasteaux passed in May, 1792, and which is since called by his name.t
D'ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL is formed between the South-east Cape of
Van Diemen Land and Bruny Island ; on each side the entrance, near the land,
there are some reefs and small islands. On the western side, near the South-east
Cape, is Recherche Bay, with its two ports, called from their relative situation
North and South Ports. Admiral D'Entrecasteaux remained here nearly a month,
and found it safe, and convenient for procuring wood and water. It is siieltered
from most winds by the surrounding mountains, and the bottom is soft mud, with
depths of 12 or 10 fathoms well out in the bay, but only from 2^ to 3^ or 4 fathoms
when near the shores of either of the harbours. There is a patch of rocks above
Smitii Port. and under water, in tiie entrance of the South Port, between wliich and the N.W.
entrance Point there is no safe passage; but the channel on the S. E. side of the
patch has depths of 4 to 5 fathoms, shoaling to 3 and 2f fathoms, where vessels
of light draught may anchor on a bottom of fine sand, in perfect safety, and fresh
water can be got at a little cove on the western shore.
North Port. The North Port is about a third of a mile wide at the entrance, and two-thirds
inside, extending northward nearly l^ miles, having 5, 4, and 3 fathoms water, to three-
quarters of a mile from the entrance, if not too near the shore. The Pearl, a small
rock above water, lies in the entrance, about one-tenth of a mile from the East Point ;
* It appears to be covered at times, for Captain Ashmore, in passing near, saw only the breakers on it : tiiis
rock, tile Eddystone, and White Rock, seem to lie nearly on the same transit line of bearing.
t It seems to have been in the following year, 1793, that Captain John Hayes, of the Company's Bombay
Marine, explored the same strait, in the ships Duke and Duchess, and thought it a new discovery. He also
explored the River Derwent, which stretches from the north entrance of the strait, a great way inland to the
north-westward and westward.
VAN DIEiMEN LAND. — D'ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL. 709
between them, in mid-channel, there are from 5 to Gi fathoms water, soft ground, with
2^ fathoms near the Pearl Rock, and the same depth also near the point. In enter-
ing this port from south-eastward, steer towards the Pearl until abreast a small point
of remarkable rocks, which must be passed close, to avoid on the starboard hand a
bank of rock-weed, on the centre of w hich are only "2^ fathoms ; then steer for Obser-
vatory Point, which is safe : keeping it open on the starboard bow, it may be rounded
close, but do not go so far westward of it as to open the Pearl Rock outside the
southernmost point of land. The general depth in this harbour is about 3^ fathoms,
soft mud bottom, in which ships may ground without danger ; the water is smooth
in it at all times; the sloping shores are covered with wood, and fresh water may be
obtained on the western shore. Observatory Point is in lat. 43° 32:|;' S. Variation
7° 39' E. in 1792. The rise of tide, which flowed only once in 24 hours, was about Tides.
feet perpendicular, high water from 9 to 12 hours at full and change of moon, but
influenced greatly by the winds.
Cape Bruny, the S.W. point of Bruny Island, lies about 7 miles to the westward of cape Bmny.
Tasnian Head, and has a revolving light on it, the tower of which is white and 44 feet
high. The light is 339 feet above high water, and the machinery makes a complete
revolution in five minutes ; the intervals from light to shade, which form the dis-
tinguishing character of the light, are, however, only of fifty seconds duration. Vari-
ation 12°11'E. (1838).
Although D'Entrecasteaux Channel has some advantages, it ought not to be used by Directions ibr
ships bound to Hobart Town, except occasionally in the summer season, when sea the channel.
breezes predominate ; because the high hills and intervening chasms on the western
side of the channel obstruct the course of the winds, even when they blow strong from
the S.W. , giving them uncertain and various directions, causing detention, which makes
the Storm Bay Passage, at all times, preferable for ships bound to Hobart Town, more
])articularly in the winter season. The George the Third, convict ship, and soon after
the ship Enchantress, with emigrant passengers and a valuable cargo, were both wrecked
here in the night. The first was lost on the mid-channel reef, in the Western Passage,
between ActaTon Island and the main ; the other is said to have been wrecked on the
Actaion Reefs when entering the cliannel eastward of the islands ; by these lamentable
misfortunes, nearly 200 lives were sacrificed and much valuable property.* Since the loss
of these ships, the Sir William Wallace was wrecked on Actajon Reefs in the daytime.
Captain J. Welsh, who partly explored D'Entrecasteaux Channel, observes, that
it has been usual for ships to enter by tlie Eastern Channel, passing eastward of the
reefs that lie across the entrance, about from 3^ to 7 or 8 miles to the eastward and
northward of the South-east Cape. These reefs (on which the Actson was wrecked)
have Actaion Island at their northern extreme, and the small isle called Charles Island
about 2 miles farther South. The S.W. part of the reefs bears from the W iiale Head
N.E. ^ N. ()i miles, and from South-east Cape N. E. ^ E. 3 miles. Although tliis chan-
nel, eastward of these reefs and islands, is the widest and best known, Captain Welsh con-
siders the western channel, or the passage westward of them, preferable witli a westerly
wind ; because a north-easterly course will carry a ship through the latter to Partridge
* The former sliip was wrecked in the night, April 12th, 1835, and 134 persons perished, 128 of whom were
convicts. The Enchantress struck on tlie reef, July 17th, 1835, at 10 p.m., and bilged immediately ; the long
boat, with great part of the crew, is thought to liave gone down by entanglement with tlie wreck. Although
in the published account of the loss of this ship, it is stated that she struck on the Acta;on Reefs ; yet a letter
from a nautical officer at Hobart Town, informs me, that she was working in through the Eastern Channel
during the night, and her jib-boom was broken by the cliffs of Bruny Island, where she struck against the
steep rocks, and then sunk in deep water.
Directions.
710 VAN DIEMEN LAND. — D'ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL.
Island, whereas a ship entering by the eastern channel would have to steer a north-
westerly course. The passage between the Actseon Reefs and Isles on one side, and
the western shore on the other, is safe in daylight, by rounding the South-east Cape
within 1^ miles, and afterwards keeping at a moderate distance from the western shore,
on account of a reef of rocks that lies in the direction of the passage, about a mile off
Eliza Point, and 2^ miles to the westward of Charles Island and Actseon Island, front-
ing the opening between these islands : this mid-channel reef is about 300 yards in
extent, and may be safe to pass on either side, having 5 fathoms water close to it,
and from 7 to 10 fathoms clear ground between it and the western shore, and also
between it and the Actaeon Reefs. Several patches of rock-weed will be perceived in
the passage, which indicate foul ground, but the least water Captain Welsh found on
them was 5 fathoms. Point Arthur, about 2 miles from South-east Cape, forms the
southern entrance point of Recherche Bay, and a ship having entered the channel
between the Actaeon Reefs and Point Arthur, should steer to pass on either side
mid-channel reef, that fronts Eliza Point; afterwards, leaving two small rocks on the
larboard side, the channel formed by the high land of the South Port to the West and
Bruny Island to the East will soon be entered ; here there is good anchorage in from
10 to 14 fathoms water, and hence, she may proceed through the strait to Hobart
Town.
D'Entrecasteaux Channel Avas navigated in February, 1827, by H.M.S. Rainbow,
Captain the Honourable H. J. Rous, in proceeding to Hobart Town ; he gives the
following description : —
Actseon Reef. " The entrance of this channel is bounded on the west side by the Actaeon Reef, or
rather several reefs of rocks under water, in the form of a horseshoe, very extensive,
the eastern elbow of them bearing from South-east Cape E. ^ N. full 6 miles. There-
fore, ships entering this channel from the S.W., after passing South-east Cape, should
steer E. |^S. 7 miles at least, or until Cape Bruny bears PS.byE., when they will be
to the eastward of the reef, and may haul in N. N. W. with a westerly wind : but with
a southerly wind, a N. by W. course made good will lead nearly in mid-channel in 15
to 20 fathoms water up to Partridge Island, where the channel takes a north-easterly
direction, and is free from invisible danger to its termination in the entrance of the
Derwent, excepting the shoal bank to the northward of Huon River, on the western
coast opposite to Point Riche and Isthmus Bay, which does not extend far out from
the shore, and is now buoyed off to 3^ fathoms water. With the wind from westward,
it is prudent to close reef the topsails, as sudden squalls then burst from the mountains
in tremendous gusts."
Since the Lighthouse has been erected on Cape Bruny the following directions for
the entrance of D'Entrecasteaux Channel have been issued from the Port Office,
Hobart Town.
" Vessels coming from the westward, unless they have a pilot, ave recommended in
no case to pass between the Actaeon Reefs and the western shore; but having arrived
abreast the Whale Head, they are to bring that Head to bear S.W. by W. ^ W., and
not open it to the southward of that bearing before the lighthouse on Cape Bruny
bears N. by E. -^ E., at which time the S. E. break of the Actaeon Reefs will bear
W. I N. 2f miles, from which position a N. by W. course will lead in mid-channel
clear of all danger. In baffling or working winds, vessels should keep on the eastern
shore, which maybe boldly approached. Several reefs and rocks being on the western
shore higher up than the Actaeon Reefs, it is necessary to approach that shore with
great caution until Muscle Bay is open, and the light' on Cape Bruny is brought to
♦ VAN DIEMEN LAND. — D'ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL. 711
bear E, ^ S. After the vessel is above Muscle Bay, the shore on either side may be
approached to half a mile. Vessels working in the channel must be careful to keep
the lead going, and not approach Actaeon Reefs to less soundings than 20 fathoms."
D'Entrecasteaux Channel or Strait, from Point Arthur to its union with the Der-
xvent, is about 13 leagues in length, in a N. E. and N. JN. E. direction, having several
bays or harbours on the east side, where ships may be sheltered from nearly all winds ;
the strait affords anchorage in many places, in from 20 to 8 or 6 fathoms, mud mixed
with sand, but rocky in some parts near the shoals or islands. There are several isles
in the strait, but not many hidden dangers. Fresh water may be obtained at some of
the brooks which run from the western shore into the coves near the north part of
the strait, and also in a bay at the S.E. part of it; but it is difficult to get the casks
to the boats, on account of the muddy shores.
If a ship encounter a gale of wind from S. E., when crossing between the South-east
Cape and the south point of Bruny Island called Tasman Head, and find any diffi-
culty in clearing either of these headlands, she may run directly to the northward,
passing near Cape Bruny, and then into the south entrance of D'Entrecasteaux Strait,
and haul round Partridge Island, that fronts the N. E. point of the entrance, where
she will find tolei-able shelter in Great Cove, which is the bay eastward of the point
and island.
The bays on the western side of the strait explored by the French are the follow-
ing : Muscle Bay, about 6 miles north-eastward of Recherche Bay, having 3 islets or Muscle Bay.
rocks off its southern point ; this is about 2^ miles in extent to the westward, with 14
fathoms water in the middle, and 6 fathoms near the southern shore. There are 4 and
5 fathoms, fine sand, to the southward of some islets or rocks well up the bay, and a
narrow channel leading into a lagoon to the north-westward. Close to the north
point of the bay lies a small rock above water, from which Cape Bruny bears S. 59° E.,
distant 5f miles.
Esperance Bay, 6^ miles N. N. Eastward from Muscle Bay, is about li miles wide, Esperaiice
and above 4 miles in extent, first in a N. W. and afterwards in a S. W, and West direc- ^"^^
tion. Lahaye, a small island, about three-quarters of a mile within the entrance, and
about half a mile in length, and covered with trees, has a small islet contiguous to its
north side, between which and the north point of the entrance there are from 15 to 7
fathoms water. Lahaye Island is about half a mile from the south shore; between these
the depth is from 15 to 25 fathoms, over sand and mud, where a ship may be sheltered
from all winds : and S. W. from the island there is a narrow but deep bay, between
high mountains, and closed by a sort of ravine. At the bottom of this bay there is a
rivulet of good water, with depths of 7^ fathoms in the entrance, 4|- in the middle,
and 2^ at the bottom of the bay, with sufficient shelter for heaving a vessel down.
HUON RIVER, 4 miles to the N.N. Eastward of Esperance Bay, is about ]i Huon River.
miles wide, the river extending thence N. W. by W. f W. 7 miles, afterwards N. ^ E.
nearly an equal distance.
Port de Cygne, or Swan Port, about H miles from the entrance on the north side SwanPoit.
the river, extends inland above 4 miles in a northerly direction, but is much less in
breadth ; several small bays branch from it on each side ; in these, in some places,
natural quays are formed, fit for careening the largest vessels. There are from 3^ to
7 fathoms water in the middle of the harbour, over a bottom of mud and sand ; and
seldom less than 3 to 4 fathoms are found at the distance of a musket-shot from the
shores, excepting in some of the little bays : but fresh water is scarce, and not good.
712
VAN DIEMEN LAND. — STORM BAY.
North-west
Port.
Hiion Island fronts the entrance of the river of this name, having rocks between it
and the western shore, and \^ miles eastward of the island lies Arch Rock, which is
small and perforated : from the same island, Satellite Island is 3^ miles E. by S. ^ S.,
and Partridge Island is distant 6 or 7 miles S. by W. ^ W. Point Riche, on the east
side of the strait which bounds the western side of Isthmus Bay, bears N. N. E. ^ E.
from Satellite Island, distant 5^ or 6 miles. Cape le Grand, on the same side, bears
from Point Riche N. by W. about 4 miles, and Green Island bears IN.fW. 2^ miles.
Cape Grequel, on the western shore, bears North from Point le Grand 5 miles, and
from the former. Point Pierson bears N. N. E. | E. 3 miles. Between these points
is contained the large bay called North-west Port. Point Pierson, on the main, and
Cape Sortie, the north point of Bruny Island, form the north entrance of D'Entrecas-
teaux Strait or Channel, about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, which there unites
with the month of Derwent River.
Nortli-west
Port.
Adventure
Bay.
I'enguin
Island.
Storm Bay.
Port Arthur.
NORTH-WEST PORT extends 5 miles inland, its entrance is 2 miles wide, formed
by high rocky points on each side, bnt in other parts the shores are less elevated, and
easy of access : several small rivers fall into it, the largest of which was obstructed
by banks and large trunks of trees, rendering the approach difficult for boats, and
the water was found of inferior quality, although drinkable in case of necessity.
ADVENTURE BAY, on the east side Bruny Island, contains good anchorage in
10 or 12 fathoms, mud, but it is exposed to the swell when the wind blows from the
eastward ; fresh water is not easily procured, on account of the great surf that usually
rolls in upon the beach, although there are two rivulets a little inside the point, at the
south end of the bay.
A narrow neck of land separates this bay from Isthmus Bay, in D'Entrecasteaux
Strait; Penguin Island, which lies close to the point that forms the southern part of
the bay, is in lat. 43° 21' S., Ion. 147° 32' E. Fluted Cape, near Penguin Island,
about 10 miles to the northward of Tasman Head, and Cape Frederick Henry, about
8 miles North of Fluted Cape, form the two entrance points of Adventure Bay.
STORM BAY, the best approach to the River Derwent and Hobart Town, is ex-
tensive, and formed between Cape Frederick Henry and Cape Pillar; the latter being
about 7 leagues eastward of the former, in lat. 42° 12' S.: but Cape Raoul, about 3
leagues to the West of Cape Pillar, seems to be the true boundary of Storm Bay, on the
eastern side; for Maingon Bay occupies the space between these two capes, having the
deep inlet of Port Arthur at its northern extremity. This port, situated between these
two high columnar capes, and 4 miles to the N. Eastward of Cape Raoul, was first
explored by Captain J. Welsh, and named Port Arthur ; its entrance was found to be
rather more than half a mile wide, extending from thence 3|- miles northward. The
eastern shore is nearly a direct line, but coves are formed on the western side, which
will afford shelter to the largest ships. The first is called Safety Cove, the next Opos-
sum Bay, in the N.W. part of which there is a small creek, called Stewart Harbour,
The depths are from 26 fathoms in the middle to 8 or 7 fathoms on each side ; and
Captain Welsh observes, that this port is easy of access, and will afford shelter for any
number of ships, the bays on the western side having good anchorage, where fresh
water is easily obtained, and plenty of fish of various kinds. All the bays, excepting
Safety Cove, are encircled at the upper part by soft banks of sand and mud, most of
them dry at low water. The harbour is surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains,
VAN DIEMEN LAND. — HOBART TOWN. 713
extending from Cape Raoul to Dolomieu Bay,* forming a barren chain about 3 miles
from the sea.
Cape Pillar is named from a rock on it like a pillar, and close to its south point cape Piiiar.
lies Tasnian Island and a rock : the island is visible 12 leagues. Storm Bay is a deep
gulf, stretching to North and N.W., with a large bay at its northern end, called
North Bay, having a branch called Pitt Water at its north extremity ; tlie N. E. angle
forms a great elbow to the Eastward and S. Eastward, called Norfolk Bay, being an
extensive land-locked navigation, with depths from 9 to 5 or 4 fathoms. Burnet Har-
bour, on the east side of Storm Bay, about 3 leagues to the N. N.W. of Cape Raoul,
is narrow and rocky at tiie entrance, with (> to 8 fathoms water inside, but seems only
to admit small vessels. At the western angle of Storm Bay there is a channel of 10 North en-
and 12 fathoms water, leading into the north entrance of D'Entrecasteaux Strait, and V^^"*^^ °^
nito Derwent River. It bound to liobart lown, or it a ship be suddenly taken with a teaux strait.
S, E. gale between Tasman Head and Cape Pillar, she may with safety steer to the Directions.
northward round Cape Frederick Henry, then to the N. Westward for the Derwent,
and after rounding Iron Pot Island and Cape Direction, on tiie north side the entrance,
she may haul to the northward into Derwent River, which is safe and navigable for
ships to a considerable distance upwards beyond Hobart Town.
The entrance to DERWENT RIVER, formed between Cape Sortie and Iron Denvcnt
Pot Island, is 2 miles wide, with depths of 10 to 12 fathoms: Iron Pot Island is small, ^"''""
with a lighthouse on it, and encircled by a reef, which unites it with Cape Direction,
on the east side of the entrance. Having entered between Iron Pot Island and Cape
Sortie, the ciiannel takes a northerly direction to Hobart Town, distant about 3 or 3^
leagues, and is safe, with moderate depths for anchorage. The river for 4 or 5 miles
above the entrance continues about 2 miles wide, to the south point of Double Bay, on
liie eastern side, the entrance of which is nearly 2 miles wide, and tlie bay inside ex-
tends 6 miles North and South, and is 2^ miles in depth, with soundings from 7 to 2
fathoms. Ships approaching Storm Bay from the westward ought to give a good
berth to the rocky islets off Tasman Head, and when past Fluted Cape, iSlount Table
will be seen, w hich is high, and resembles the mountain of this name at the Cape of
Good Hope. Betsey Island, being high, will soon be perceived in proceeding up the
bay, which lies 3 miles eastward of Iron Pot Island ; between the latter and Cape
Direction there is no passage for a ship. Having rounded Iron Pot Island, and then
fairly into the Derwent, steer about N. by W. for a low sloping point on the western
shore, and when abreast of it, the town will open in view to the westward.
Sullivan Cove, the anchorage of Hobart Town, has from 9 to 4 fathoms over a bot- Suiiivan cove.
tomof soft mud; but the anchorage is good anywhere off the town, in from 12 to 9 fathoms,
taking care to give the jetty, where the wharfs are, a proper berth, as a ledge of rocks
projects ai)out a cable's length to the eastward, having on it only 10 feet at low water.
Shoal Point, about 3 miles above Hobart Town, on the western shore, is the
only danger, to which a berth must be given, by keeping nearest to the cliffs on the
opposite side, in such ships as proceed to Risdon Cove, which is 4^ miles above Hobart
Town. Here the river is contracted to half a mile in width, and in sailing up thus
far. Mount Direction is very conspicuous ahead, having a gap at the top ; it is in
lat. 42' 48° S. Risdon Cove lies below tliis mount, w here fresh water may be got,
and a vessel drawing more than 9 feet ought not to go higher, because the river be-
comes very shoal, and contracted by banks.
• One of the bays on the east side of the peninsula, exposed to seaward.
VOL. II. 4 Y
714 VAN DIEMEN LAND, EAST COAST.
Hobait Town. Hobail Town, in lat. 42° 54' S., Ion. 147° 28' E., the seat of Government, was built
on the west bank of the river, by a colony from Fort Jackson, on a gently sloping plain
at the foot of Mount Table, and a communication is established over land between it
and Launceston on the River Tamar, which falls into Port Dalrymple, on the northern
coast. Hobart Town is now a place of great importance, on account of its excellent
harbour, and of its being well situated for trade. The surrounding country produces
excellent wheat, barley, and other grain, the soil being remarkably fertile; there are
also mines of marl and lime, and the climate is very favourable for agriculture, so that
Van Diemen Land has great natural resources.
The tide in Derwent River is irregular, rising at times 7 or 8 feet, but usually only
4 or 5 feet, and the time of high water is said to precede the passage of the moon over
the meridian on any day about 4 hours, but this seems very uncertain : the stream in
the river is irregular and weak, seldom more than half a knot. In the upper part of
the river, where the water is fresh, flocks of black swans formerly used to feed on the
long grass which grew on the mud-banks. A lightiiouse, elevated 70 feet above the
sea, has been built on Iron Pot Island, at the entrance of the Derwent, exhibiting
from dark to daylight a fixed light, which may be seen 4 or 5 leagues from a vessel's
deck; and it bears W. by N. i N. from Cape Raoul, and N. N.W. from Cape
Frederick Henry.
In tiie middle of Storm Bay entrance there are 35 fathoms water over sandy bottom,
and near Cape Raoul 50 fathoms, the depth decreasing towards Bruny Island, the
western boundary of the bay ; and also in proceeding nortiiward, there is a gradual
decrease to 30, 20, and 12 fathoms in approaching Betsey Island, from which a reef is
said to project nearly a mile to the southward. When near Cape Direction (which
appears like a low island), if a strong N.W. wind prevent a ship working into the
Derwent, she may run up to the eastward of Betsey Island, and anchor in INorth Bay ;
or otherwise pass to the eastward round Sloping Island and Green Head into Norfolk
Bay, then anchor on the S. E. side of Smooth Island, about 5 miles East from Green
Head, where she will be well sheltered between it and Stony Hill Point in 5 or
6 fathoms ; fresh water can be got at the bottom of the bay, directly East from Smooth
Island, and N. E. from Stony Hills.
THE EAST COAST OF VAN DIEMEN LAND, from Cape Pillar, its South-
east point, to Cape Portland, its North-east point, lies in its general direction nearly
North and South, and comprehends about 2^ degrees of latitude.
Coast adjacent. The coast froui Cape Pilhir runs northerly about 10 leagues to Oyster Bay: in the
interval are several bays, and Port Frederick Hendrick, which port is unsafe for large ves-
sels. This coast presents the same bold steep shore as that fronting the S. E. coast.
oystei Bay. Oyster Bay, in lat. 42° 40' S., Ion. 148° 8' E., is formed on the west side Maria
Island ; this island is of considerable size, separated from the east coast of Van
Diemen Land by a strait about a league wide. The best channel appears to be from
eastward, round the north side of the island, where the depths decrease regularly from
20 to 6, 5, or 4^ fathoms, in sailing through the passage to the anchorage, which is in
5, 4, or 3^ fathoms, at the entrance of the bay ; and inside, the depths are only 2 or
2^ fathoms. There is a pool of fresh water* close to the southern shore, and another
near the Peaked Mount, on the neck of land that separates this bay from Riedle Bay
on the east side of the island.
From the north end of Maria Island, about 4^ leagues N. by E. | E., lies the south
extremity of Schouten Island, which nearly joins to Freycinet Peninsula, the two
* Monsieur Freycinet could not find any water here in the dry season.
VAN DIEMEN LAND, NORTH COAST. — PORT DALRYMPLE. 715
forming the eastern side of the great bay of Fleurieu, discovered by Captain Fieurieu Bay
Badin. This spacious bay extends 15 miles North and South, and its breadth is PeliinsX'"*^'
10 miles, with moderate depths for anchorage, but it is open to southerly winds.
Freycinet I'eninsula and Schouten Island are high and sterile towards the sea, but low
and woody on the western side ; and the north part of the bay is low, witii a sandy
shore. There is a small stream of good water at the south end of Schouten Island, in
lat. 42° 19' S., accessible for boats.
CAPE PORTLAND, in lat. 40° 4o' S., Ion. 148° 0' E., is the N. Eastern extremity cape Portland.
of Van Diemen Land, between which and Freycinet Peninsula the coast extends
nearly North and South, mostly high inland, api)arently without harbours: there are
some hummocks near the cape, with high land in the interior, but the circumjacent
coast is generally low. From Cape Naturaliste, the eastern extremity of the land of
Cape Portland, in lat. 40° 53' S., the coast extends 5 or (> leagues to N. Westward, a
reef projecting several miles from the latter headland, and some islets ; there are the
Swan Isles also 6 or 7 miles to the eastward, having a small channel between them
and the cape land.
THE NORTH COASTof Van Diemen Land, comprehended between Cape Port- Northcoastof
land, just described, and Cape Guin, formerly mentioned, is about 150 miles in extent, ^^"11°"^"'^"
these two extreme capes being nearly on the same parallel, and tiie coast between
them forming a curve to the southward ; it has generally smooth water along it, the
prevailing winds being off the land, and the long S. Westerly swell outside being de-
flected over from Hunter Islands towards the coast on the north side of Bass Strait.
From Cape Portland to Point Waterhouse the coast forms a deep bay, 5 leagues in
breadth ; it is supposed to be clear of danger, but is open to north-westerly and north-
erly winds. Waterhouse Island, lying off the point of the same name, is the largest
island near this part of the coast, and has a cliannel of 2 miles wide inside it, with
depths of 5 and G fathoms; but it seems only fit for small vessels.
The coast from Point Waterhouse runs W. S.W. towards Port Dalrymple at the
entrance of the Tamar River, is generally low and sandy, with mountains inland. A
small island called Ninth Island, in lat. 40° 51' S., lies about 5 miles off Double
Sandy Point, and 10 miles W. by S. i S. from W^aterhouse Island ; and there is
another small island called Tenth Island, in lat. 40° 5(3' S., Ion. 147° 0' E., 4 or
5 leagues further to the south-westward, within 3 miles of Stony Head.
PORT DALRYMPLE, at the entrance of the River Tamar, is rather intricate pon Dai-
for a stranger to enter, on account of numerous shoals. Low Head, on the east side '^''"'p'''-
the entrance, is the projecting part of a piece of sloping land, in lat. 41° 3^' S,
Ion. 140° 4*/ E. ; but Captain Flinders made it more easterly by some lunar observa-
tions. Near the flagstaff on Low Head, a lighthouse has lately been erected, of conical
foim, with a ball of 20 feet diameter, which is lighted by oil lamps, each having a tin
parabolic reflector; the lantern is about 135 feet above the level of the sea.* The
following are the bearings taken from it. Hebe Reef W. 5° S. ; West Head W. 1[)°S. ;
W indmill at George Town S. 32^° E. ; Barren Joice, or Tenth Island N. 4U° E. ;
Five Mile Bluff N. 49° E. The eiUrance of this port is not easily discerned ; but the
chains of hills projecting from tiie inland mountains on each side, and approaching
• Accordinn; to the Australian papers, as quoted by the Nautical Magazine, this is a revolving light, and
is 150 feet above the sea.
4 Y 2
716 VAN DIEMEN LAND, NORTH COAST. — PORT DALRYMPLE.
nearer to the sea than they usually do iu this neighbourhood, will help navigators to
find it, and the flagstaft" on Low Head may be seen at a great distance. When the
entrance bears S. Eastward, that chain which comes to the back of Low Head ap-
pears as a cluster of irregular hills, with the blue tops of the higher mountains peep-
ing over them. The ridge on the west side the port has a similar appearance, being
formed by peaked hills of uncouth shape ; and the stony head to the eastward, men-
tioned al)0ve, is the only projection on the east side of the port that is not sandy.
This port being difficult of access, most of the shoals covered at half tide, the best
time to enter is with, or a little before, the first of the flood, keeping a good look-out
for discoloured water from the mast-head ; but it would be imprudent for a stranger
to enter among the reefs without a pilot, who will come ofi' on the signal being made.
The survey of the River Tamar and Port Dalrymple by Captain J. Welsh, published
by the Admiralty in 18.31, may be useful to a stranger proceeding to that port.
Hebe Reef. Hebe Reef, on which the ship of this name was wrecked, June 1.5th, 1808, was
thought to be the outermost shoal ofi' the entrance of Port Dalrymple ; it is distant
3i miles* West from the lighthouse on Low Head ; there is said, however, to be a bank
of 3 or 4 fathoms bearing N. i W. from Low Head, 3^ or 4 leagues, and 3 leagues
W. by N.iN. from Tenth Island. The Hebe got on" the shoal at high water, and
had not less than 2^ fathoms on it, the swell beiug rather high at the time ; but at low
water, spring tides, the sea upon it appears discoloured.
Captain Kent, of H. M. Ship Buflalo, many years ago, placed three beacons on the
shoals at the entrance of this port, and furnished the following directions,
capt. Kent's Steering in for Port Dalrymple, and being within U miles of Low Head, and a little
Port Daf/°' westward of it, look out for a beacon with sheers on'its top, placed on the east part
rympie. of the castemmost of the western shoals. Bring this beacon on with the centre of the
harbour, that is, the opening between the trees as high up as Green or Garden Island,
steering by compass S. E. by S. until within half a niile of the beacon; this will clear
the rock and shoals to the westward, part of which are always dry, and also clear the
Middle Ground and patches of weed, which stretch out from Low Head. Look tlien
out for a beacon placed on a half-tide rock, lying a full cable's length from the inner
part of Low Head, towards which stand over, observing to give the sheer beacon a
good berth, because there is a patch rather more than a cable's length eastward from
the beacon, having only 1 fathom on it at low water ; and there are 2f fathoms between
them. The half-tide rock beacon is a cask placed on an iron bar, about 14 feet high,
and the west part of the rocks may be approached within 30 or 40 yards in any ship.
From hence you may run up to Lagoon Bay, taking care not to haul too much east-
ward, as there is a patch of 2f fathoms more than a cable's length above the beacon.
As Lagoon Bay is rather exposed, it is best to run up to Outer Cove, or above it, before
anchoring, for the bottom between Low Head and Outer Cove is hard or rocky.
As the winds prevail from N. W. to S. W., which are unfavourable for going out of
the harbour, a ship will, therefore, probably be obliged to kedge, or back and Jill out
with the tide. During 24 days' stay in this port, Captain Kent, never found the tide
run above 2^ or 3 miles per hour, in the channel betwixt Garden Island and Outer
Cove ; but it is sometimes stronger.
The depths among the patches of weed, which extend from Low Head over towards
the western shoals, including the Middle Ground, are from 1|- to 2^ or 3 fathoms ;
above Garden Island, the bottom is all mud. Firewood abounds in this port. Fresh
water may be got at the back of the beach near Low Head, and there is excellent
water in the western arm, above George Town.
'»"-
* About 2| miles by Captain Welsh's chart.
VAN DIEMEN LAND, NORTH COAST. — PORT SORELL. 717
Captain Welsh, who surveyed the River Tamar, gives the following directions capt Welsh's
for entering it. Upon the Hebe Reef, a beacon surmounted with a broad vane has ^,',7'^^^^"^/°'^
been placed, bearing from the flagstaff on Low Head W. 2° S., distance about 3^ Tamar.
miles : also another on the sunken rock within the head, called the Barrel Rock, with
a broad sheet of tin, facing the western channel, and painted white. There is a safe
passage between Hebe Reef Beacon and Point Flinders,* with soundings of 7, 10, and
14 fathoms : to sail through, it must be observed, that Hebe Reef Beacon is placed on
the western extreme of the shoal, and the channel is about 1^ miles wide; keep in
mid-channel or rather nearest to Hebe Reef, and steer for the flagstafi'on Low Head,
till the outer beacon at the entrance of Tamar River is on tvith the mill at George
Town, which will lead clear of the Yellow Rock.f Having the outer beacon and mill
in one, steer for the beacon till you enter the western channel, then pass between the
outer beacon and that on the Barrel Rock, keeping mid-channel. The latter part of
the ebb and first of the flood tide sets directly from Low Head over Hebe Reef.
The rise of tide is from 1 2 to 7 feet in the springs ; high water on full and change, at 1 1 Tides.
hours 15 minutes at George Town, or on any day about half an hour before the moon
passes over the meridian, and the ebb runsout nearly 7 hours ; the tides set irregularly on,
over, and tinough, among all eastern and western shoals at the entrance of the port.
About G leagues westward of Low Head the variation was 8° Easterly in 1798;
and 8^° Easterly at George Town in 18.30. George Town fronts Garden Island, and
is at the head of the cove on the eastern side the river; and Launceston, the chief
settlement on the northern part of Van Diemen Land, is nearly 30 miles farther up
the river, which is navigable for vessels of moderate size within a small distance of
that place, or up to Swan Point, which is 5 leagues below Launceston. But ships
of considerable burthen can now^ proceed up to the wharf at Launceston.
PORT SORELL, in lat. 41° 9' S., Ion. 146° 34' E., is about 11 miles to the Port so.eii.
S. VVestward of Port Dalrymple, and under the east end of the rugged range called
Asbestos Mountains, where it is thought a ship might conveniently obtain wood and
Mater ; l)ut not having been sufficiently examined, the depths of water and other need-
ful information are wanting. Rocks front both sides of the entrance, and a little to
the West of mid-channel is the best track in sailing in or out of the port, which,
within the narrow part of the entrance, opens to a width of 2 miles, and is apparently
clear of dangers to the same distance upward. About 2 miles within the entrance,
and mid-way between tlie shores, there is a small island, w liich must be passed on the
east side, it being connected with the western shore by a shoal. Both shores above
this island are fronted by shoals, making it necessary to keep in mid-channel, if a ves-
sel proceed above the island ; this, however, ought not to be attempted until this part
of the channel is surveyed. This port, from its entrance, extends directly to the
S. E. about 3 leagues, and about a mile from its termination on the western side there
is a small branch not examined.
From Port Dalrymple to Circular Head, in Ion. 145° 15' E , the coast is clear of
islands, with the exception of one or two very small ones lying near the shore.
* Point Flinders lies about 2^ miles to the S. W. of Hebe Reef, from which point the low shore to the east-
ward is fronted by shoal water and reefs to the distance of 1 \ miles : there appears to be some doubt as to the
extent of the Hebe Reef, and as to the safety of the channel to the soutlnvard of it.
f In the chart of the river by Captain Welsh, the Yellow Rock, marked with IJ fathoms, is placed South
from the western edge of the IMiddle Ground, and the chamiel between them not above a (piarter of a mile wide ;
and the outer beacon and mill at George Town, in one, as marked on tlie chart, leads directly on the Jliddle
Ground, instead of clear through the channel; therefore, either these directions by Captain Welsh, or the
chart, is erroneous.
718
VAN DIEMEN LAND, NORTH COAST. — HUNTER ISLANDS.
Table Cape. TABLE CAPE, 40 miles W. by N. of Port Sorell, is in lat. 40° 50' S., and has a
flat aspect with steep cliffs, which may be discerned 12 leagues, and Roudhill Point
between them. From Table Cape westward, the country appears sterile, and may be
considered low and level at the western part, rising gradually to the eastward. From
Table Cape to Port Dalrymple the inland country is mountainous, generally of fertile
aspect, and well covered with wood down to the sea. About 5 leagues eastward of
Table Cape, a round hill stands close to the shore ; and a few miles beyond it, a
range of mountains extending from S. Westward terminate abruptly in a bluff" head,
but this head projects little beyond the line of the coast. From hence eastward to
Port Dalrymple the land near the sea is generally low.
Rocky Cape. ROCKY CAPE lics nearly mid-way between Table Cape and Circular Head, and
is surrounded by rocks, as its name implies.
Circular Head. CIRCULAR HEA D, lies 8 Icagucs W.N.Westward ofTableCape, in lat. 40° 43' S.,
Ion. 145° 15' E., and may be seen about 8 or 9 leagues ; it is the first projecting head-
land eastward of Cape Grim, the N. Western extremity of Van Diemen Land; and
the large, low, sandy south island of Hunter Group lies between them, united to the
main by shoals.
Hunter
Islands.
To sail into
Bass Strait.
Cape Otway.
HUNTER ISLANDS, near the N.W extremity of Van Diemen Land, are a group
of three large islands, with some smaller ones, and many islets or straggling rocks,
fronting them to the westward : they have a barren aspect, and there possibly may be
some rocks or dangers westward of them, not yet explored. The Black Pyramid, in
lat. 40° 31' S., Ion. 144° 22' E., is the westernmost island of this group. Albatross
Island is the N. Westernmost, in lat. 40° 25' S., Ion. 144° 35' E., and may be seen
about 6 leagues. A ship steering for Bass Strait with a southerly or S. W. wind
might, if necessary, keep in lat. 40° 25' S. to fall in with Albatross Island, after which,
Three-Hummock Island would immediately appear to the eastward, and remove any
doubt concerning the land. But it is not advisable to enter this channel, except
in daylight, with steady weather and a good look-out, as Reid Rocks extend in patclies
from lat. 40° 13' to 40°"^18' S., bearing E. S. E. 4 or 5 leagues from the south point of
King Island ; and although there are 30 fathoms water between these rocks and the
point, this passage is also contracted by rocks and foul ground, projecting a consider-
able way from the south end of King Island. Bell Rock, distant about 2 leagues
southward from Reid Rocks, has been described in Volume First of this work.*
The channel northward of King Island is therefore preferable, being clear of danger,
excepting the Harbinger Reefs, which are two large patches of rocks, distant 3 or 4
miles W. N.W. of the north point of King Island, described in Volume First of this
work ; the sea generally breaks high upon them, and there is a passage between them
and King Island. The north point of the latter bears about S. S. E. \ E. from Cape
Otway, leaving a passage of 13 or 14 leagues between that cape and the Harbinger
Reefs, with 52 fathoms, sand and broken shells, in mid-channel. Cape Otway is in
lat. 38° 50' S., Ion. 143° 32' E., and is a high promontory of red-coloured cliffs, with
hills rising gradually above them, and covered with verdure; there is a reef pro-
jecting 11 miles from the pitch of the cape. But great caution ought to be
* The following positions of these clangers are given by Captain Wickham, R. N. : — Bell Rock lat. 40° 23' S.,
Ion. 144° 7' E. ; Reid Rocks (centre) lat. 40° 15' S., Ion. 144° 9' E. ; Black Pyramid lat. 40° 28' S., Ion. 144° 19' E.
Captain C. R. Drinkwater Bethune, of H.M.S. Conway, places a rock in lat. 40° 24' S., Ion. 144° 0' E.
VAN DIEMEN LAND, NORTH COAST. — FURNEAUX ISLANDS.
719
observed in running for the channel during the night, if the latitude of a ship
is not correctly known : a melancholy instance of its necessity occurred on the
night of May 13th, 1835, when the Neva transport, Captain Peck, struck on the
Harbinger Reefs, and broke into fragments in a few minutes; she was steering at the
time N. Easterly, with a strong W. N.AV. wind, lier latitude by computation being
14 miles in error, too far North. There were on board 150 female prisoners and 3.3
of their children, 9 free women with 22 children, and a crew of 26 persons. Only 15
were saved out of 241 individuals, by clinging to pieces of the wreck, on which they
drifted to King Island. She sailed from Cork, January 8th, bound to Sydney with
female convicts and children. About 8 leagues East of King Island the variation was
8° 30' East in 1802.
FURNEAUX ISLANDS, separated from Cape Portland by Bank Strait, form a Fumeaux
great chain, extending about N. N.W. and S. S. E., and are situated at the S. E. part '*''""'''•
of Bass Strait. Cape Barren, the S. E. extremity of the island of this name, which is Cape Barren,
the southernmost large island, is in lat. 40°25'S., Ion. 148° 26' E., and the peak on
this island, with the ridge of hills that extends nearly to the cape, may be discerned
about 10 leagues. Soundings stretch a considerable way out from these islands, over a
sandy bottom ; their western sides generally present a steep rocky shore to tlie pre-
vailing winds and sea, but their eastern sides usually slope down gradually into a sandy
beach. Clark Island is the southernmost of the chain, its south extreme being in lat.
40° 34' S., and it forms the north boundary of Bank Strait, which is about 3 or 3| leagues
wide between it and Swan Islands, fronting Cape Portland. Armstrong Channel,
formed between the south coast of Cape Barren Island and Clark Island, is narrow,
with shoals on each side ; and, although navigable by small vessels, ought not to be
chosen in a large ship, as in some parts the depths are only 2^ or 3 fathoms.
Preservation Island, situated at the western entrance of Armstrong Channel, has
anchorage in from 3 to 5 fathoms, oft' the sandy beach on its eastern side, open only to
soutlierly winds. The variation here was 9° easterly in 1802.
Great Island, the largest and northernmost of the chain, is high on the west side, Gieat island,
formed of barren peaked hills of various shapes : betwixt it and Cape Barren Island
there is a narrow strait, with many rocks and islets in it : Babel Island lies contiguous
to the east point of Great Island, and other islands lie near it to the westward.
The Sisters, near to and fronting the north end of Great Island, resemble each other. The sisters.
and may be seen 8 or 10 leagues ; the North Sister is in lat. 39° 38' S., Ion. 147° 56' E.
Craggy Isle is small, lying N.W. of the north end of Great Island, and nearly in a
direct line from its northern extremity towards Kent Groups, about mid-way between
them ; to the N. Westward of Craggy Isle is a high rock, in lat. 39° 36' S., called by
some navigators Wright Rock : betwixt this rock and Kent Groups, or between Craggy
Isle and the Sisters, the passage is equally safe in favourable weather, but the first is
more capacious than the other. The tide, which runs strong through the narrow pas- Tides,
sages among these islands, rises from 3 to 6 feet, and the time of high water is about
10^ hours after the moon passes the meridian. The flood here comes from the east-
ward, and at the western part of Bass Strait it comes from westward, whereby the
direction and velocity of the tides are often irregular, and they are weakest in the
middle of the strait.
The principal Islands and Dangers in Bass Strait, with directions for passing through
it, will be found in the First Volume.
720
AUSTRALIA, EAST AND NORTH-EAST COASTS.
Nortliern coast
of Bass Strait.
DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST.
THE northern boundary of BASS STRAIT, from Wilson Promontory eastward,
is low near the sea, fronted by a sandy beach of great extent, and stretches in a
N. E. by E. direction to Cape Howe. A ridge of hills inland converges gradually
towards the sea, until it joins the hills between Ram Head and Cape Howe, w here the
coast presents some rocky points of land.
Cape Howe. CAPE HOWE, in lat. 37° 30' S., Ion. 150° T E., is a low point of rocks and sand,
with hills behind it, and forms a projecting part of the coast, which hence takes a di-
rection to the northward.* Green Cape, of smooth sloping aspect, bears North a little
easterly from Cape Howe, distant about 5 leagues ; a little farther northward, in lat.
Twofold Bay. 37° 4' S., is Tavofold Bay, the shores of which are not high, but consist of steep
heads, rocky points, and sandy beaches, and the outer north and south points of the
bay have dry rocks close to them. The land at the back of this bay is more remark-
able for hummocks than any of the parts contiguous, and a round mount to the
S.VV., about 5 leagues inland, may be seen at 15 leagues' distance, above the other
hills.
Twofold Bay was surveyed by Lieut. Woore, R. N., in 1834 ; it is a good place for
Snug Cove. whalers or other vessels to take shelter in during blowing weather. Snug Cove lies
at the back of the steep stony head, called Cove Head, on the north side the bay, where
a vessel may be land-locked in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom ; and tiiere seems to be room
for two, or perhaps three ships in it, but the water shoals suddenly towards the head
of the cove. At the anchorage on the south side the bay a vessel cannot be land-
locked in more than 3 fathoms, and in deeper water she would be exposed to a N. by E.
wind. Wood abounds all round the bay, but fresh water is only found in swamps near
the anchorage ; large boats may enter the lagoon at the east end of the great south
beach at half flood. The tide rises 6 or 7 feet, high water at full and change of the
moon, at 9h.
CAPE DROMEDARY is a projecting headland, in lat. 36° 18' S., Ion. 150° 14'E.,
having a double mountain over it called Mount Dromedary ; and 6 miles to the east-
ward is Montague Island, nearly 2 miles in extent North and South, with 12 fathoms
near its west side, where a ship might anchor ; but the bottom is rocky, and some
rocks lie near the S.W. end of tiie island. The coast between Cape Howe and this
headland is bold to approach within a reasonable distance, with soundings fronting it
* The east coast of Australia, or New Holland, from Cape Howe to the northern extremity of this extensive
country, was explored by Captain James Cook in 1770, and called by him New South Wales : the southern
coast, and great part of the north-eastern coast, have been surveyed by the late Captain Matthew Flinders, and
the north-western coa«t by Captain P. P. King, R. N., and more recently by Captains Wickham and Stokes, R. N.
Great part of the southern and western coasts has also been explored by the French surveying ships at different
times.
Tides.
Cape Drome-
dary ; coast
adjoining.
AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST. 721
to the distance of 3 or 4 leagues. From Cape Uromedary the coast extends about
North to Bateman Bay, in lat. 35°49'S., which is about 2 leagues wide, and contains
several islands. Lieutenant R.Johnstone, K. N., in 1822, discovered at the head of
the bay the entrance of a fine, clear, capacious river, with 9 feet water on the bar,
deepening inside to 6 fathoms, and having from 7 to 4 fathoms for 20 miles upwards.
Although small vessels often take shelter under one of the islands in this bay. Lieute-
nant Jeffreys thinks it would be an imprudent risk for a stranger, unless in a case of
great necessity. Point Upright lies about 2.| leagues N. by E. of this bay, and thence
the coast stretches north-eastward to CapeSt. (^eorge, in lat. 3.3^ lO'S., Ion. 150° 56' E., cape st.
having several isles contiguous to the shore, and a remarkable mount, called the Pigeon ^'^"''s^-
House, rising a little inland, in lat. 35°21'S.
JERVIS BAY* (the entrance), in lat. 35° 5' S., Ion. 150° 59' E., is formed betwixt JervisBay.
Bowen Island, which touches the northern point of Cape St. George, and the penin-
sula called Long Nose, to the northward. It is 1^ miles wide in the entrance, with
soundings of 15 and 20 fathoms ; and inside a spacious bay or harbour opens, extend-
ing North and South 7 or 8 miles, and being about 5 miles wide. Excepting w here reefs
project from most of the points, this bay seems to have few dangers; the soundings are
from 14 to 10 fathoms, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms near the shores on either side, with
two inlets or rivers at the northern part. There is fresh water on the western side the
bay, betwixt the inlet and Cabbage Tree Point to the southward, also good water on
the island close to the beach. Tiie best berth to anchor is in 7 or 8 fathoms, off a long
sandy beach, where a small bay is formed at the N. E. part of the harbour, called Port
Bowen. Here a ship will be land-locked, and sheltered from all winds. The north
point of the entrance rises GOO feet perpendicularly from the sea ; the course into the
bay is about W. N.W., then round to N.W. and northward. There is room for ships
of any size to work in or out, observing to give a berth to a rock that lies rather more
than a mile inside the north point of tlie entrance, and nearly a mile distant from the
eastern shore of the bay. The reef projecting from Rocky Point, which lies to the
northward of the rock last mentioned, must also have a berth. This bay abounds with
fish ; but the natives being considered treacherous and cruel, no boat's crew ought to
land unarmed, and they must be watchful to prevent any attack from them.
RED POINT, in lat. 34° 29' S., Ion. 151° 2' E., has some isles to the southward of Red Point;
it, and the coast betwixt it and Jervis Bay is safe to approach ; but there is a shoal in •^°*''* J*""'-
the bay to the northward of Red Point. Betwixt this point and Cape Solander the
coast forms a small concavity, having a range of whitish cliff's about .3 leagues south-
ward of the latter, extending some distance farther South. The land over these is
moderately high and level, having upon it a small clump of trees.
BOTANY BAY lies about 4 leagues to the southward of Port Jackson, the en- Botany Bay.
trance being formed by Cape Banks to the northward and Cape Solander to the
southward ; Cape Banks is in lat. 34° 0' S., Ion. 151° 14' E. The narrowest part of
the entrance is about half a mile, and stretches in a north-westerly direction, the depth
of water decreasing from 10 or 18 fatiioms outside, gradually to 0, 5, and 4 fathoms
inside the bay. To sail in, keep about mid-ciiannel betwixt the heads, until fairly
* This bay was discovered by Lieutenant Bowen, August 19th, 1791, and afterwards explored by Mr. Mat-
thew VVeatherhead, of the ship Matilda, employed in the South Whale Fishery.
VOL. II. 4 Z
722
AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST. — PORT JACKSON.
within them ; then haul over a little to the northern shore, and anchor in 5, 6, or
7 fathoms.
Around the bottom and sides of this extensive bay the water is shoal, generally from
4 or 5 to 10 or 12 feet: although the anchorage fronting the entrance is of consider-
able extent, and here ships may lie in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, there is no shelter
from easterly winds ; and when these blow either from the N. E, or S. E. quarters, a
heavy sea rolls into the bay, rendering the anchorage at times unsafe. Eresh water is
also scarce on the shores that form the lower parts of the bay. High water at 8 hours
on full and change of moon, and the rise of tide from 5 to 7 feet.
Port Jackson.
Directions.
Macquarie
Tower and
Light.
PORT JACKSON, where the first English settlement was established on this
coast, January 25th, 1788, is one of the best and safest harbours in the world, and a
stranger may go into it with ease, by conforming to the following directions, chiefly by
Captain John Hunter,* who made an excellent survey of this spacious port, and was
afterwards governor of the colony.
Captain King states, that the lighthouse at the entrance of the harbour, in lat.
33° 51' 11' S., Ion. 151° 19' 45" E., is a revolving light, that may be seen 8 or 10
leagues ; it is a square pyramidal tower, 65 feet high, being 4^ miles to East of Sir
Thomas Brisbane's Observatory at Sidney. The government house at Sidney is in
lat. 33° 52' S. by Sir T. Brisbane's observations ; and a solar eclipse observed by him
made the Ion. 151° 14J' E. The same eclipse observed by Mr. Charles Rumker on
the 16th August, 1822, at Paramatta, made the observatory there in Ion. 151° If E.,
or 12^ miles to the West of Sidney.
The latitude is the best guide to this port, or to any other upon the coast, and
soundings generally extend 4 or 5 leagues off.
In the winter months there is much blowing weather on this coast, and as the gales
from seaward prevail often between N. E. and S. E., it is prudent not to borrow too
close to the shore, until in the latitude of the place. When in lat. 33° 50' S., steer in
for the coast, which here extends nearly North and South ; the entrance of the har-
bour will shew itself when you come near, by the Lighthouse Tower, and by the heads
on each side, which are high, steep, perpendicular cliffs, of a light reddish colour,
having soundings from 15 to 12 fathoms between them. This Tower, called Mac-
quarie Tower, constructed of white stone in 1818, stands on the south head of the
entrance, on the brink of the cliff, and is very conspicuous. The light on it is shewn
at dusk every evening, and continues during the night ; it is a revolving red light, the
revolution requiring one and a half minute of time : but from the distance of 5 to
8 miles at sea, the light never entirely disappears : its greatest brilliancy continues
from 10 to 15 seconds, and it may be seen from a ship's deck at the distance of
10 leagues.
When coming from southward, if the weather be dark or thick, preserve a good
offing until the light is seen, in order to clear the projection of the coast of Botany
Bay, the land of which is comparatively low ; and where the current sets sometimes
S.W. towards the shore. Although hard gales sometimes blow from seaward, yet
strong westerly gales often prevail in winter, making it necessary to keep near the
* Afterwards Admiral Hunter. Directions for Port Jackson, and valuable remarks for the coasts of Aus-
tralia, are also contained in the Appendix to Captain Philip Parker King's Surveying Voyages of those coasts,
which, with his charts engraved at the Admiralty, will be valuable to ships destined to Australia or Van
Diemen Land.
AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST.— PORT JACKSON. 723
coast at such times ; otherwise, much time may be lost getting in with the land during
the prevalence of these winds.
When, therefore, the wind blows strong from westward, a ship should, after passing
Cape Howe, keep within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast, unless there be cause to appre-
hend a change of wind.
A ship may run in without fear betwixt the Heads, which are distant from each
other about one mile ; for the passage is clear, the shore pretty steep to on both sides,
and as the sea breaks on the rocks, even in fine weather, it will shew the reef that pro-
jects above a cable's length from the Inner South Head, or those rocks that are de-
tached from the shore. Steer in between the Heads for a high bluff point, steep to,
called Middle Head, facing the entrance, until you open a very extensive arm of the
harbour to the southward. This arm or branch lies S.W. by S., and if the wind be
fair for sailing up it, along either shore, haul round the South or Inner Head, which
is a low rocky point, and forms the easternmost or outer point of this arm. Give it a
berth of a cable's length, then steer right in for the first sandy cove, called Camp Cove,
Green Point being its south extreme ; keep at a convenient but short distance from
the shore, in 3^ and 4 fathoms, because fronting this cove there is a patch of roc^s,
called the Middle Ground or Sow and Pigs, nearly in mid-channel, and visible at half
tide : it is about 400 fathoms in length and 150 in breadth, extending in the direction
of the harbour: the rocky patch on the outer end of the shoal, and on which the sea
usually breaks, has a beacon on it, and is in a transit line with the Outer North and
Inner South Heads, N. 53° E., and S. 53° W. A short distance N.W. of the beacon
is a light vessel, which marks the north end of the shoal in the night by exhibiting two
vertical lights. The water shoals gradually towards this patch all round, upon a
smooth sandy bottom, for it is rocky only about half a cable's lengtli from the dry part.
You may keep near the upper point of Camp Cove in 6 and 7 fathoms, and thence
steer directly up the harbour.
If you intend to proceed along the western shore, and to leave the patch of rocks or
Middle Ground to the eastward, steer in, as before, for Middle Head, keeping it on
the larboard bow, and the sea horizon well open, until it is within a cable's length, or
until within a transit line of a small sandy beach on the western shore and Green
Point; then steer for George Head, the next point above Middle Head on the same
side, which give a berth of a cable's length, and also to Point Bradley, about H miles
to the southward, from whence steer up the harbour to the westward. This is the best
channel in passing the Middle Ground, being a little wider than the eastern channel,
and the depths in it are 4, 4^, and 5 fathoms. Having passed George Head, or second
point on the western side, the channel is safe nearly to each shore, and you may run in
or anchor at discretion.
If a stranger come in between the Heads with a southerly wind, it would be impru-
dent to venture to work up past the Middle Ground ; he may anciior near the Middle
Head, or on the north side of that Head, in Hunter Bay. Pilots come off to ships
when the proper signal is made for tliem.
The following remarks for sailing in by the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of
the Sow and Pigs, are given in the Australian Directory, pul)lished in 1830, at the
Hydrographical Office, Admiralty. After rounding the reef off the Inner South Head,
haul in towards Green Point, till the trend of the Head is in one with the summit of
the Inner North Head, or about N. N. E. ; then steer S. S.W. till past Green Point,
and afterwards a direct course up the harbour. Green Point is a grassy mound, half
a mile S.S.W. from the Inner South Head, and forms the S.W. point of Camp Cove.
4z 2
724
AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST.
Sidney Cove.
I'ldes.
Winds and
weiitlier.
Kiolven Bay.
Sidney Cove and Town, the chief settlement and station of government, is about
5 miles within the Heads, on the south side the Great Southern Arm of this extensive
harbour; which abounds with inlets and coves, where ships may moor and careen.
From the Middle Ground up to Sidney Cove there is no hidden danger, except some
straggling rocks near the south point of Watson Bay, and around Sharic Island : the
depths are mostly from 7 to 10 fathoms in mid- channel, and near the shore, in some
places, 4, 5, and C fathoms. The tide rises between 6 and 7 feet on the springs, high
water at B^ hours on full and change of moon, and a quarter of an hour sooner at the
Outer Heads. Variation of the compass 8f E. in 1788, 8° 42' E. in 1822, and 9° 6'E.
at Garden Island, and 9° 42' E. at Camp Cove, in the same year.
If a ship running for Port Jackson be uncertain of her latitude, and fall in with the
land on either side of it in blowing weather, she may take shelter in Botany Bay, or in
Broken Bay, as circumstances require; for the former being about 4 leagues south-
ward, and the other about 5 leagues northward of Port Jackson, are of the utmost conse-
quence for sliips which may happen to be in bad condition, and unable to keep offshore.
On tliis part of the coast, and round Van Diemen Land, there is much stormy
weather in the winter months, from April or May to October; but in the summer
months the weather is generally fine, though thunder, lightning, and strong squalls
are at times experienced. If at any time lightning is seen in the lee part of the hori-
zon, a pretty severe squall may be expected from that quarter. The winds in the
vicinity of Port Jackson blow more from the sea than from the land, in both seasons.
The barometer generally rises with S. E. and easterly winds, which bring rainy weather
from tiie sea ; and it falls with westerly winds off the land, although they are accom-
panied with settled weather.
BROKEN BAY (the entrance), in lat. 33° 33' S., Ion. 151° 18' E., and about 5
leagues from Port Jackson, may be known by the land projecting from the North Head
to a considerable distance eastward ; the distance between the North and South Heads
is 1| miles, and a narrow bar of 5 fathoms extends from one to the other, with depths
of 12, 10, and 8 fathoms, on either side of it, decreasing to 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, as you
sail up the bay, which is large and clear of danger.
The northern branch, inside the North Head, runs in a northerly direction, and is
shoal and navigable only by boats or small vessels ; for the channel into it is rendered
narrow by a long spit of sand, extending from a low sandy point on the west side the
entrance, on which the sea breaks high when the wind is at eastward.
The southern branch, called Pitt Water, a little inside the South Head, forms a good
harbour, although the entrance is contracted by a shoal bank, which extends from the
eastern point full two-thirds across. The west point of this branch is high, steep, and
rocky, and pretty bold to approach ; keep it and the western shore a-board, and steer
right up the branch, where the depth in the narrows is only three fathoms at low water,
for a short space; but in running up you soon deepen to 4, -5, 6, and 8 fathoms. The
depths decrease gradually to the shoal that narrows the entrance, but when you are
above the second point on the western shore, there is plenty of room and good depths
of water ; you may then run up in mid-channel without fear, both shores being pretty
bold to, except from some of the points, whence shoal water extends to a small dis-
tance.
There are several coves in this branch, where a ship might lighten and careen, there
being abundance of wood and fresh water in various parts of the harbour ; fish may
be caught in all the sandy bays.
AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST. 725
The south-western or western branch is the best harbour for large ships, and it is
separated from the southern branch by several rocky points, with steep, liigh land
over them, between w liich there are some small sandy bays. Fronting the mouth of
this branch there is a high rocky island of small extent, called Mount Elliot, which
at the east end is of great perpendicular height, and answers as a good mark for any
part of the bay. It is advisable for a stranger coming in here, to be sheltered from a
gale of wind, to steer for the island, which may be passed on either side ; but in steer-
ing for the south-west branch, the direct passage is to the southward of the island.
Keep mid- channel between it and the south shore, which is bold to approacjj within
2 cables' lengths. In proceeding upwards, a branch stretching to the N. W. will be
seen, and when thus high, you are above a bank or Middle Ground of 10 feet at low
water, with a gradual decrease of depth towards it. This bank may be passed on
either side by keeping near the shore ; on the north side of it there are 5 fathoms,
but the channel along the southern shore has most room and deeper water, and here
a ship may anchor sheltered and land-locked. If you go higlier up the south-west
branch, when above the middle ground, keep in mid-channel, and the least water will
be 5 or 6 fathoms. Some inlets extend from this branch with sufficient depths of
water in them for ships.
If you intend to enter the north-west branch, when above the Middle Ground, steer
for the larboard shore of the entrance, and keep near it for some distance up, because
a shoal stretches one-third the distance over from the starboard shore. When clear
of this shoal, the channel turns from the larboard into the bay on the starboard shore;
and then it takes a northerly and afterwards a westerly direction, betwixt that shore
and some islands on the opposite side. The north-west branch has several inlets
stretching a great way into the country, and Hawkesbury River falls into it from the Hawke.bury
westward ; this river is navigable by boats and small vessels a great way up, the depths
being from 2 to 6 or 7 fathoms about 40 miles above the sea. The ebb tide runs
pretty strong in the river, and the tiood rises about to 8 feet; but running through
a valley, betwixt a chain of mountains on each side the level land that forms the
upper part of its banks, it is thereby liable to destructive inundations, occasioned by
heavy rains falling upon the mountains, and rushing down the valley in torrents, some-
times swelling (he river from 20 to 30 feet perpendicular height above its common
level, and destroying every thing that is opposed to their course.*
PORT HUNTER, called also COAL RIVER, or KING TOWN, is about 20 Pon Hunter,
leagues N. by E. | E. from Port .Jackson, and the Nobby, or Goal Island, which shel-
ters the entrance, is in lat. 32° 50' S., Ion. 151° 43' E. From this island reefs project
above a quarter of a mile to the North, East, and South, leaving only a narrow channel
of 3 fathoms water on its western side. The mark for this channel is said to be two
small lights kept in a line about S. S. ^V^, one of which is placed on the extremity of
a wharf that projects from the town, and the other on the shore. The channel ap-
pears not to be a cable's length wide, having to the westward a great extent of foul
ground, reaching to the main land, where many vessels have been wrecked. The
best anchorage is in 3 fathoms, about a cable's length North of tiie wharf; but the
access to this intricate harbour is dangerous in S. E. gales. Iligii water at 10| hours Tides.
on full and change of moon, rise of tide about feet.
• Much of the land, corn, cattle, slieep, &c., beionffiiiij to the colonists on the banks of Hawkesbury River
was destroyed by one of these torrents not long ago, and many of the inhabitants swept away.
726 AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST.
Port Stephens. PORT STEPHENS (the entrance) is in lat. 32° 43' S., and N. E. by E. 8 leagues
from Port H miter. Between these places there is a projecting angle of the coast,
about 17 miles from Port Hunter, the interjacent land forming a bay with a low sandy
shore, on which the surf always runs high, and a ship may be lost in the rollers l^
miles from the beach, which must be guarded against by vessels proceeding either to
Port Hunter or Port Stephens.
The entrance of Port Stephens opens between two high headlands, called Yacabah
and Tomaree, which lie nearly N. E. and S. W. about half a mile from each other.
AVhen viewed from 6 or 7 leagues south-eastward, the hills appear like a group of
conical islands ; Yacabah Head, being high, is easily known, by the low land and
water behind it, and by two small islands half a mile E. S. E. and N. E. from its ex-
tremity. Cape Stephens lies about 2 miles to the southward of the port, in lat. 32°47'S.,
and although joined to the main by a narrow neck of land, appears from the offing
like an island ; it may be approached within a quarter of a mile. The port opens in
length inside, about 8 or 9 miles, and is 2 miles broad in some places, separated into
two harbours of nearly equal size, by a long tongue of land, called Soldier Point.
The Inner, or Western Harbour, contains many small islands and large shoals, only a
small space at its N. E. shore being fit for ships. The Outer Harbour has likewise many
large shoals, but there is room for a great many large ships, although the approach
is rendered difficult by a bank extending from Tomaree Head, nearly two-thirds across
the entrance.
According to the directions given by Mr. Jones, of H.M.S. Rainbow, who surveyed
the harbour in 1828, ships bound in with a leading wind should steer for the south
side of the North or Yacabah Head, and when it is approached within a cable's
length, haul in about W. N. W., until the north point of Tomaree or South Head
bears S. S. E. ^ E. ; then steer direct for Nelson Head, which is steep to, and may
be passed within half a cable's length. From hence keep close along the south
shore, the channel between Myall Bank and Nelson Bay being scarcely more than a
quarter of a mile wide ; but, with a leading wind, it is safe for large ships, the edge of
the bank being visible at low water, and steep to ; the shore is also steep to. From
Nelson Head W. S. W. 1^ miles, and N. by E. from a red spot in the cliff, is a small
patch of only 12 feet, with 5 fathoms on its south side, and 7 or 8 to the northward
of it : the south land of Yacabah, just open of Nelson Head, leads to the northward
of this shoal patch, in the best channel. When the red spot in the cliff bears S. by E.,
you have passed the patch, and must haul in for the south shore, to avoid the S. E.,
point of the west sand-bank, which is not visible even at low water, unless the wind
blow strong from the southward ; then the shoalest part has breakers. For large
ships, this is the most dangerous part of the channel ; the course through it is about
W. by S. close along the south shore, keeping the lead going, until Salamander Bay
opens, or until Soldier Point bears W. by N. ^ N., then, being clear of all danger,
anchor at discretion in from 8 to 12 fathoms, mud, and in smooth water.
The entrance to the Western Harbour branches into two channels, the northernmost
'of which seems preferable, except with a south-westerly wind. In both these channels
the spring tides run 6 knots, and a ship must be ready to bring up quickly, as the
anchorage immediately becomes contracted to a small space, compared to the large
expanse of water. At the S.E. side of Farm Cove, or on the west side of the north arm,
a ship of 1,000 tons may anchor close to the shore. In other parts of the harbour, the
tides run from 3 to 4 knots, and admit a ship to be dropped up with light winds ; but
it would not be safe for a large ship to pass Nelson Head without a leading wind. The
AUSTRALIA, NORTH-EAST COAST. 727
anchorage below that Head is with the extreme point S. S. W.^ W., distant a quarter
of a mile, in 7 or 8 fathoms ; but a heavy swell rolls in here with southerly winds.
Fresh water may be procured in several places. Variation 10° E. in 1828. High Tides,
water at 9^ hours on full and change of moon, rise of tide 8 feet.
CAPE MORETON, the north point of Moreton Island, is in lat. 27° 1' S., Ion. cape Moreton.
153° 25' E., and the entrance of the bay of this name is about 7 or 8 leagues to the
southward, formed between the inner land of Cape Moreton and Point Skirmish, and
is about 8 miles wide : but although this bay extends a great way inland to the south-
ward, it is studded with sand-banks, having intricate channels between them, with
depths of 5 to 13 fathoms, sandy bottom ; but towards the head of the bay, both on the Moreton Bay.
shoals and deeper parts, the bottom is mud. About 4 miles off Cape Moreton, to the
N. N. E., is a patch of dry rocks. Brisbane River, a fine fresh water stream, falls into
the bay in lat. 27° 25' S., abreast the strait, between Moreton Island and Point Look-
out. The penal settlement here is a little North of the mouth of that river.
The coast from Port Stephens runs in a general direction N. by E. towards Cape
Moreton, having Port Macquarie and Shoal Bay in the interval ; the former in lat.
31° 23' S., and the latter in 29° 26' S. Between Shoal Bay and Cape Moreton lies Cape
Byron, the easternmost point of Australia, in lat. 28° 38' S., to the north-westward of
which, about 20 miles inland, is Mount Warning, which is said to be visible 22 leagues.
WIDE BAY (the entrance), in lat. 25° 49' S., has 3 fathoms water, and is said to wide Bay.
form a good harbour inside: this bay has a communication with Hervey Bay, by which
the Great Sandy Peninsula is insulated.
SANDY CAPE, in lat. 24° 42' S., Ion. 153° 17' E., is the northern extreme of a sandyCape.
long sandy Island, which stretches North from Wide Bay.
A reef extends 18 or 19 miles to the northward from Sandy Cape, called Breaksea
Spit, the extreme point of which is in lat. 24° 24' S., Ion. 153° 1 1' E. Between the
spit and a low islet, called Lady Elliot Island, .30 miles N. 53° W. from it, there appears
to be a clear passage. Inside the northern half of Sandy Island, and formed by it to
the eastward, and by the main to the southward and westward, is a large bay, called
Hervey Bay, having moderate depths of from 5 to 14 fathoms in it, and appearing
free from shoals. The Bay is about 1 1 leagues in extent each way, open to the north-
ward, and having at its head, or southern part, a shallow and intricate channel, sepa-
rating the southern half of Sandy Island from the main, and communicating near the
south end of that island with Wide Bay.
Tlie coast from Hervey Bay extends in a north-westerly direction to Cape York, the
N. E. point of Australia.
The whole North-East Coast of Australia, being fronted by numerous islands North-east
and reefs, and bounded by the great barrier chain of reefs which extends from the coast ^°'"*
between 2 and 3 degrees in some places, ought to be avoided by ships bound to the
northward.
This coast, with its inner passages and dangers, has been surveyed by Captain P. P.
King, R. N., and his excellent charts and sailing directions have long been before the
public ; the limits to seaward of the Great Barrier Reefs, however, are still compara-
tively unknown, and it will therefore only be practicable to point out the general direc-
tion and extent of the reefs according to our present information.*
* An expedition has just been sent out by the Admiralty, consisting of H. M. S. Fly and H. M. Cutter
728 AUSTRALIA, NORTH-EAST COAST. — WINDS AND CURRENTS.
Barrier Reefs. TI)C Barrier Reefs commeiice to the northward of Breaksea Spit, about the
parallel of '24°, and between that and the parallel of 19°, extend from 100 to 1.30 miles
from the coast ; from the parallel of 19° to Cape Melville, in lat. 14° 10' S., they seem
to be restricted to narrower limits, not extending more than 45 or 50 miles off. The
land at Cape Melville recedes to the westward, forming Princess Charlotte Bay, from
whence to the entrance of Torres Strait the line of reefs gradually increases its dis-
tance from the coast, until abreast of Cape York, the N. E. extreme of Australia, the
edge of the barrier is 70 miles from the land. The general direction of the coast from
Breaksea Spit, off Sandy Cape, to Cape Melville, is N.W., and from thence to Cape
York N.W. I N. ; the entire line of coast being fronted by numerous islands and reefs,
among which are many navigable, though intricate, channels.
Beyond the Barrier Reefs, in the open sea, lie many islands and dangers, which will
be described in the section which treats of the passage from Port Jackson to the north-
ward.
WINDS AND CURRENTS.
Winds a,ui THE WINDS AND CURRENTS on the east coast of Australia are thus de-
the'Ea't^oast scribcd by Captain Flinders : —
of Australia. From Cape Howe, northward, S. E. winds prevail in summer, or from the beginning
of October to the end of April, with land and sea breezes near the shore, and fine
weather. But far south of the tropic, South or S. W. gales occasionally happen, and
strong breezes between North and N.E. bring heavy rain, with thunder and lightning,
usually of short duration. A sultry land wind from N. W. in summer is commonly
followed by a sudden gust between S. E. and S.S.W., against which a ship siiould
be guarded, if near the coast. At such times, the thermometer at Port Jackson has
been known to fall from 100° to 64° in less than half an hour.
In winter, from May to September, westerly winds prevail, generally attended by
fine weather; the gales in this season blow from seaward, between N. E. and South,
and bring rain : nor is there any settled weather in winter with the sea winds ; and
even when between N. and N.W. there is often rain, though the wind be usually
light in those quarters.
While the prevailing winds are from S. E. in summer and S.W. in winter beyond
the tropic, the current almost constantly sets to the southward, from 1 to 1|^ miles per
hour, its greatest strength being opposite the points of land which project farthest out,
and its limits may be considered at from 4 to 20 leagues off the coast. Farther out,
there seems to be no regular current, and close in shore, especially in the bights, there
is commonly an eddy current setting northward from a quarter of a mile to one mile
per hour. At the southern parts of the coast its strength is greatest, and towards
Cape Howe it takes a direction to the eastward of South : whereas, in other places,
it usually follows the line of the coast.
This account of the winds and currents beyond the tropic shews the advantage of keep-
ing within 3 or 4 leagues of the land, when sailing northward, and intending to touch
on the coast ; but in winter this must be done with caution, because then, easterly gales
often happen. And on this east coast it may be taken as a general rule, that a rise
Bramble, under the command of Capt. F. Blackwood and Lieut. Yule, for the purpose of making an accurate
survey of the Barrier Reefs and the dangers in Torres Strait. H. M. S. Beagle being shortly expected to re-
turn home, the information derived from the surveys of Captains Wickhara and Stokes on the N.W. coast
and in Bass Strait may shortly be expected to be given to the public.
north coast.
ISLANDS AND DANGERS OFF THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 729
of the barometer indicates either an increase of the present wind, or that it will veer indications of
more to seaward ; and a fall denotes less wind, or a breeze more off the land. The ' '^
barometer rises highest with a S. E. wind, and falls lowest with a N.W. wind ; N. E.
and S.W. are points of mean height.
To benefit by the current in sailing southward, a ship should not come nearer to
the coast than 5 or G leagues, unless to the projecting points ; and if the distance is
increased to 10 or 12 leagues, so as to have the land only visible, an advantage would
be gained, and no danger then be apprehended from the gales.
While westerly winds prevail on the southern parts of the east coast, the South-
east Trade blows with most regularity within, and close to the tropic, producing sea
and land breezes near the shore, with serene weather ; and the farther you go north-
ward, the longer does this fine weather continue, till near Cape York, and at the
entrance of Torres Strait it commences in March or early in April, and continues to the
middle or end of November.
On the north coast of Australia, the South-easterly Monsoon prevails from March winds on the
or April to November, often veering to East, or even to N. E., producing fine weather,
with land and sea breezes near the shore. The North-west Monsoon sets in about
the beginning or middle of November, and continues till near the end of March. This
is the season of heavy rains, thunder and lightning, and is thought to be the most
unhealthy period.
Although tlie current sets mostly to southward along that part of the Australian
coast beyond the tropic, yet to the northward of Sandy Cape, outside the Barrier
Reefs, it sets with the trade wind to N. Westward, generally from half a mile to one
mile per hour, as far as the entrance of Torres Strait. Inside the Barrier Reefs there
is little current, but usually a kind of tide prevails between them and the coast ; although
in Torres Strait there is apparently a N. W. or westerly current during the period of
strong S. E. winds.
When the Westerly Monsoon prevails in the Timor Sea, and between New Holland
and New Guinea, particularly in November, December, January, and Eebruary, no
ship ought to attempt the passage through Torres Strait, either to the westward or
eastward ; as in these months dark, rainy, and squally weatiier would greatly aug-
ment the danger of this intricate navigation, which has seldom been attempted from
the westward at ant/ time* nor from the eastward at an unfavourable season.
ISLANDS AND DANGERS OFF THE EAST AND NORTH-
EAST COASTS OF AUSTRxiLIA.
PREVIOUS to giving directions for any of the northern passages from Port Jack-
son, it may be useful to notice tiie islands and dangers which lie near the route.
LORD HOWE ISLAND, in lat. 31° 26' S., Ion. 159° 0' E., is of considerable size, LordHowe
Island, and
* Tlie sliip Zenobia, in January and February, 182.S, effected a passage through from the westward, with other islands,
great difficulty, as will be seen under tlie description of F.iukavour Strait.
VOL. II. O A
730
DANGERS OFF THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
Elizabeth
Reef.
Dangers near
the east coast
of Austraha.
Cato Bank.
and Ball Pyramid, 3| or 4 leagues South of it, is a high rock, having others con-
tiguous to it. MiDDLETON IsLAND, in lat. 28° 13' S., Ion. 160° 31' E., is small, and
a shoal of the same name is placed in lat. 29° 14' S., Ion. 158° 53' E., by Captain Flin-
ders. An extensive reef, about 3 leagues in length, was seen in July, 1815, by the
Indefatigable, supposed to be Middleton Reef; but their time-keeper being incorrect,
its longitude was not ascertained. There is also a patch of shoal water, seen by the
Lady Nelson, in lat. 30° 20' S., Ion. 161° 5' E.
ELIZABETH REEF,* in lat. 30° 5' S., Ion. 159°0'E. by chronometers, was dis-
covered by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, in company, at 2J p.m., May
16th, 1820, returning from Port Jackson towards Torres Strait. At 5 p.m., when
within 2 cables' lengths of the reef, had 14 fathoms, hard rocky ground, at a quarter of
a mile distant from it 25 fathoms, then no ground. It appeared to be of quadrangular
form, about 3 miles in circuit, with deep water in the centre, the edges of which, with
the exception of a few rocks like negro heads, are covered, and the sea runs high over
them. The east side of the reef extends about N. N. E. and S. S.W. one mile, but the
greatest extent appeared to be from W. N.W. to E. S. E.
From Port Jackson to Sandy Cape the coast of New South Wales has few dangers,
excepting some near the shore. Those most in the way of ships passing along the
coast to the northward are the Solitary Isles, about 3 leagues off shore, from lat. 29° 56'
to 30° 9'S., Ion. 153° 21' E., having a" reef, in lat. 30° ll'S., to the south-westward of
the southernmost island. Some shoals in lat. 28° 7' S.,lon. 153° 39' E., distant 2| leagues
East of Point Danger, having Mount Warning, a high hill inland, to the south-west-
ward, in lat. 28° 24''S. ; and a shoal in lat. 26° 58' S., Ion. 153° 28' E., which lies about 2
leagues N. E. from Cape Moreton, and about 11 leagues to the East of the hills called the
Glass Houses.
There is a 9 fathoms bank, called Gardner Bank, said tolie off the centre of Sandy
Island, in about lat. 25° 25' S., Ion. 154° 0' E.
To the northward of Middleton Island, in lat. 26° 5'S., Ion. 160° O'E., is Favorite
Reef, and 60 miles N.W. by N. from it, a small patch of soundings, called Capel Bank,
on which is marked 32 fathoms. Besides these, there is a rock in lat. 24° 0' S., and Ion.
160° 15' E., and towards New Caledonia are the following islands and reef, which, how-
ever, are considered doubtful : — An island, in lat. 26° 12' S., Ion. 163° 12' E. ; another
island, in lat. 23° 40' S., Ion. 162° 57' E. ; and a reef, in lat. 23° 40' S., Ion. 164° 10' E.
CATO BANK, in lat. 23° 6' S., Ion. 155° 23' E., is a dry sand surrounded by
breakers, discovered by Captain Flinders, August 15th, 1803.
Anstraiia Reef. AUSTRALIA REEF, discovcrcd by Captain Slight, September 20th, 1824, is in
lat. 22° 45' S., Ion. 156° 6''E., and cannot be discerned above 1^ or 2 miles, the sea
being very smooth around at times.
Wreck Reef. WRECK REEF AND SAND-BANK, where the Cato and Porpoise were lost,
at night, August 15th, 1803, in lat. 22° 11' S., Ion. 155° 19' E., is the central part of a
chain of six coral reefs, extending nearly East and West from Ion. 155° 7' to 155° 28' E. ;
the easternmost is covered with wiry grass and some shrubs, and called Bird Islet. The
rise of tide here was 6 or 8 feet, high water at 8f hours ; variation 9° 17' E.
* The Elizabeth, of London, was wrecked on a reef in 1831, in lat. 29° 30' S.^ Ion. 158° 30' E. by the observa-
tions made in the Fairy cutter, sent from Sydney to examine the wreck.
DANGERS OFF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA, 731
CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, is described as follows, by Captain R. Cams, who Mid-day Reef,
discovered it in the ship Neptune, from Port Jackson, bound to Calcutta.
June 20th, 1818, took a departure from Sandy Cape, and steered to keep mid-way
between the Great Barrier and Wreck Reefs. On the following day, at noon, saw
breakers ahead, stretching to the eastward as far as could be seen from the mast-head,
and about 5 miles to the westward ; wore immediately, and bore away for the western
extremity, which we passed within 2 miles. This part, measured by good chronome-
ters, bears from Sandy Cape N. by E., distant 176 miles, or in lat. 21° 58' S.,
Ion. 154° 20' E. I called it Mid-day Reef, thinking it to be a new discovery ; as the
western end of Wreck Reef is placed in Ion. 155° 7' E., they cannot be one and the
same.*
When passing the western extremity of the reef, it appeared to extend East as far as
could be discerned from the mast-head, and consisted of sand-banks and rocks, some
just visible above water, others elevated from 5 to 20 feet. There seemed to be several
passages between the sand-banks, l)ut we thought it would be too great a risk to attempt
any of them, as the wind blew strong.
I can depend upon the accuracy of our observations in fixing the position of this
reef, and think it renders the navigation critical between the Barrier and Wreck
Reefs.
SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ SHOALS, extending N. N.W. and S. S. E. from sirjame,
lat. 21°35i' to 21° 44' S., Ion. 15.3° 46' E. by chronometer, were seen February 27th, shoX."'
1823, in the Zenobia, by Captain Lihou, tiie northernmost extreme being a dry
sand-bank ; and there is reason to suppose that other reefs exist to the N.W. of this
position.
FREDERICK REEF, discovered in 1812, by the ship of this name, and upon Frederick
which the Queen Charlotte was wrecked, extends from lat. 20° 45' to 21° 0' S., and ^'^^•
from Ion. 154° 15' to 154° 37' E. This ship also saw a reef in lat. 20° 44' to 21° 2' S.,
Ion. 1.50° 32' E.
HORSE SHOE SHOAL, seen by Lieutenant Vine, its northernmost end, is in lat. Horse shoe
20° 5' S., Ion. 151° 50' E., and having the convex or outer edge to the southward, ex-
tending as far as 15 miles to the South and East.
KENN REEF, discovered April 3rd, 1824, by Captain Kenn, of the ship William Kenn Reef.
Shand, on the passage from Port Jackson towards Torres Strait, consists of rocks and
sand-banks partly above water, extending S. E. and N.W. about 9 miles, and appa-
rently 6 or 7 miles in breadth. There appeared to be no soundings close to the reef,
where they passed within H miles of its eastern edge, and made the centre of that part
in lat. 21° 9' S., Ion. 155°4jyE. by chronometer, measured from Port Jackson, in a
short run of five days. This dangerous reef is directly in the route of ships passing
some distance to the eastward of the track laid down by the late Captain Flinders in
his general chart.
BOOBY SHOAL is placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 21° 2' S., Ion. 159° 2' E., fj^fJJi^j^"'-
and the Bellona Shoals in lat. 20°55'S., Ion. 159° 47' E. Between these shoals other shoai*.
• This reef is placed in lat. 21° 53' S., Ion. 154° 18' E., in the Admiralty chart,
5 A 2
732
DANGERS OFF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
Biiring Shoals.
Minerva
Shoal.
Avon Islands.
Bampton
Shoal.
and to tlie north-westward and south-eastward of them are other dangers, the precise
extent of which is not yet determined ; they at present appear on our charts between
lat. 20° 35' and 21° 50' S., and Ion. 158° 45' and 160° 0' E., and are described as follows.
BARING SHOALS are a cluster of detached reefs and banks, apparently betwixt
lat. 20° 40' and 21° 50' S., Ion. 158° 15' and 159° 30' E., by which Captain Lamb, in the
Baring-, was embarrassed three days in August, 1819, bound from Port Jackson to
Bengal. One of these is a sandy island, in lat. 21° 24|^'S., Ion. 158° 30' E. by mean
of four chronometers, and a reef extended from it E. S. Eastward as far as the eye
could discern. These reefs seem connected by a bank of soundings, as the Baring
continued to have soundings from 10 to 48 fathoms during the three days she was
among them ; but breakers were frequently seen, also an immense number of whales,
apparently of the sperm kind. This bank was supposed to be united with Booby and
Bampton Shoals, and Captain Lamb is of opinion that many undiscovered dangers
exist in this part of the ocean.
Captain Welsh, of the Claudine, in 1820, saw a reef, which he named Claudine
Reef, bearing West 6 miles from the south end of Booby Island, having a clear passage
betvA'een them, and he made the reef in lat. 21° 19' S., Ion. 159° 4' E. by chronometers.
MINERVA SHOAL was discovered by Captain Bell, in the ship of this name, in
his passage from Port Jackson towards India, of which he has given the following de-
scription ; and it seems to be a continuation of the Baring Shoals to the eastward, for
the Minerva soundings were on the eastern part of the bank seen by the Baring.
July 8th, 1818, at midnight, sounded in 33 fathoms, coral ; hauled up to the eastward,
had from 33 to 30 fathoms, sand and coral, in a run of 5 miles ; then tacked to S.W. and
steered 8 miles in this direction, the depth gradually increasing to 36 fathoms. At day-
light steered N. by E. with the lead kept going, and had from 30 to 35 fathoms, coral
and sandy bottom : at 11:| a.m. had no ground at 40 fathoms, but immediately after-
wards found ourselves on a bed of coral, with soundings of 10 to 15 fathoms ; and the
rocks quite visible. Hauled on a wind to S.W., shoaled to 9 and 8 fathoms ; and the
water appearing shoaler in that direction, wore at l\i a.m., steered to the eastward,
and deepened quickly to 30 and 40 fathoms.
When we first got soundings were in lat. 21° 22' S., Ion. 159° 10' E. by four good
chronometers, in a run of eight days from Port Jackson : at noon, lat. 20° 50' S., Ion.
159° 22|' E. When upon the shoalest part our situation was directly between the
shoals of Booby and Bellona, as marked in Captain Flinders' chart.
AVON ISLANDS, examined by Captain Sumner, of the Avon, in his passage
from Port Jackson towards Torres Strait, September 17th, 1823, are small and low,
covered with trees, bearing about E. by S. and W. by N., distant 2 miles from each
other, having reefs projecting from both of them to the E. S. E., but otherwise appa-
rently safe to approach. The boat found soundings between them of 9 to 20 fathoms,
coral bottom, and there seemed to be a clear channel between them and a range of
breakers seen to the S. E., thought to be Bampton Shoal. These islands are in lat.
19° 30' S.,* Ion. 158° 12' E. by chronometers, and 158° lOi' E. by lunar observations.
BAMPTON SHOAL, discovered in 1793 by Captain Bampton, of the Shaw
* Another account places them in 19° 40' S.
DANGERS OFF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 733
Hormazier, on his passage from Port Jackson towards Torres Strait and Bombay, ex-
tends from lat. 18° 49' to 19° 30' S., Ion. 158° 2' to 158° 45' E. It has the form of a
horseshoe, being a narrow coral shoal, of great capacity inside, with a wide entrance
from southward, and having two isles with trees on its eastern side ; but there is no
outlet except at the south part, nor are there any soundings at the mouth of, or in the
great basin formed by the shoal, into wliich the above-named ship got in the night,
and had great difficulty in beating out of it against the trade wind.
Captain David, of the American barque Nelson, gives the position of a sand-bank in
lat. 19° 21° S., Ion. 151° 2' E., extending N.W. and S. E. 4 or 5 leagues, and fronted
on the east side by a reef of rocks about 13 feet above the sea at low water.
ALERT REEF, discovered by Captain Brodie, in his passage from Port Jackson Aien Reef and
to Calcutta, in the Alert, belonging to the latter place, is described by him as °"'^'' •'^"g"^
follows : —
October 4th, 1817, at 9^ a.m., saw breakers about 7 miles distant, extending in a
N. E. and S.W. direction. At 10, saw two small sand islets bearing from N. N.W. to
N.W. ; hauled up N. E. to avoid the danger. At noon, the islets bore W. ^ S., dis-
tant about 12 miles, which made them, by noon observation, in lat. 17° 2' S., Ion.
151° 49' E. : the reefs were visible from the topsail-yard as far as the horizon to
S. Westward; and we afterwards ran 18 miles to the northward and eastward before
we cleared them.
VINE BANK, in lat. 17° 46' S., Ion. 151° 40' E., was seen by Lieut. Vine. vine Bank.
LIHOU ISLETS AND SHOALS, seen by Captain John Lihou, R. N., who passed Lihou isiets
along their western side, February 15th, 1823, in the ship Zenobia, bound from Manila to '""^ shoau.
the West Coast of America, were found to consist of a chain of sand islets and reefs,
extending in a N. E. and S.W. direction from lat. 17° 4' S., Ion. 151° 59' E., to lat.
17° 41' S., Ion. 151° 30' E. The northern part of these dangers appears to be the same
as that called Alert Reef; and the south part, that called Vine Bank, already mentioned.
The Governor Farquhar Group, apparently the same as those last described, is an Governor
extensive range of shoals and islets, seen in 1821 by M.Tregrosse, of the French brig shoals'!"
Les Trois Freres, with the brig Jessie in company. Two sandy islets terminated the
eastern part of the reefs, the easternmost of which is in Ion. 151° 47' E. of Greenwich;
finding the vessels could not pass to windward, they bore away, and ran along the
shoal at 1^ leagues distance, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., counting altogether seven islets,
three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole connected by a reef, the sea
breaking high on its edge. The westernmost islet is in lat. 1 7° 39' S., Ion. 151° 27' E„
and appeared to terminate the group.
TREGROSSE ISLETS (the westernmost), is in lat. 17°42'S., Ion. 150° 43' E., and Tregrosse
the westernmost reef in lat. 17° 44' S., Ion. 150° 32' E. ; betwixt this and another ex- ^''"'•
tensive reef, and the westernmost islet, JVI. Tregrosse steered through a passage 5 or
6 miles wide, which appeared safe. Another isle was seen to the northward, which
seemed to be connected with the western one by shoal water.
DIANA BANK, in lat. 15° 41' S., about Ion. 150° 30' E., was discovered by Mon- Diana Bank,
sieur Bougainville, in 1708, aud Bougainville Reefs are placed by Captain ^an cri'^"^
Flinders from lat. 15° 12' S. to 15° 35' S., Ion. 148° 0' E. ""^
734
ROUTES FROM PORT JACKSON, OR VAN DIEMEN
LAND, TOWARDS INDIA OR CHINA, BY TORRES
STRAIT.
Passage from
A'an Diem en
Land, or Port
Jackson, by
Torres Strait.
WHEN the SOUTH-EAST Monsoon prevails in the Banda Sea, from March to
September, ships drawing little water would find the route through Torres Strait
more speedy than any other, in proceeding from Van Diemen Land or Port Jackson,
towards Java, Hindoostan, or other parts to the westward. But this route through
Torres Strait ought not to be pursued in a large ship, or in one that draws much
water, without great caution, for it is rendered intricate and dangerous by the laby-
rinth of shoals and isles that form it ; the whole of the space betwixt the south part of
New Guinea and the N. E. part of Australia being strewed over with isles and shoals
innumerable. H.M.S. Pandora, in 1791, fell in with the shoals to the eastward of
this strait, in lat. 9° 53' S., Ion. 144° 14' E., a little to the eastward of Murray Island;
a steep coral reef was found to front the sea, affording no passage through it ; she
therefore worked to the southward along the edge of the reef as far as lat. 11° 2-5' S.,
without being able to discover any safe opening through it to the westward, and here
unfortunately struck on a detached part of the reef, August 28th, and soon went down
in deep water. Great part of the crew were saved in the boats, passing to the westward
through a narrow gap in the reef, near the wreck of the frigate, and from thence pro-
ceeding through Torres Strait to the Island Timor.
Route of the
Shaw Hor-
mazier.
ROUTE OF THE SHAW HORMAZIER.
The Shaw Hormazier, bound from Port Jackson to Bombay, in 1793, entered Torres
Strait by the New Guinea side, anchored in 1 1 fathoms, good ground, in a bay at the
north part of Wamvax or Darnley Island, within a quarter of a mile of the shore,
which anchorage is in lat. 9° 28' S., Ion. 143° 40' E. ; here one of her boats was cut off
by the natives, and some of the crew massacred. This ship was three weeks getting
through Torres Strait, keeping nearest the New Guinea side ; she was several times in
danger, grounded on some of the shoals, and found much difficulty in pursuing her
passage through this intricate navigation, which should never be attempted on the
New Guinea side of the strait.
Directions
from Port
Jackson to-
wards Torres
Strait.
ROUTE RECOMMENDED BY CAPTAIN FLINDERS.
TO SAIL THROUGH TORRES STRAIT,* the late Captain Flinders recom-
mends June and July as the best time, certainly not earlier than March, nor later than
the middle of September : no ship should attempt this route without a chronometer.
If, at leaving Port Jackson, you do not intend to keep along the coast to Sandy
_ ♦ These directions are for the Northern Route through Torres Strait, which is now seldom adopted, being
circuitous and dangerous.
TORRES STRAIT. — FLINDERS' ROUTE. 735
Cape, and to pass to the westward of Cato Bank and Wreck Reef, steer N. E. by
E. at leaving that port till in about Ion. 155^° E., and the coast will be 50 leagues
distant ; steer then North till in lat. 24° 8., and in case of an error in the chronometer,
do not pass lat. 2.3° 20' S. in the night, on account of Cato Bank. It is best not to
heave to, but to make short tacks till daylight, making allowance for a probable N.VV.
current of one mile per hour. A good look-out is indispensable, and an officer should
be at the mast-head in the day, and at the fore-yard in the night, to listen as well as to
look ; for in dark nights breakers may often be heard before they can be seen.
From lat. 23° to lat. 15° S., great caution is necessary, whether a ship pass to the
eastward or westward of Wreck Reef, on account of the numerous slioals, particularly
between the parallels of 23° and 20° S., where these dangers are scattered in an east
and west direction to a great extent.
In the day you may pass about 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of Cato Bank and
Wreck Reef; but with favourable weather it may be desirable to get a sight of Bird Bird isiet.
Islet, at the eastern extremity of the latter, in lat. 22° 1 H' S., Ion. 155° 27' E., in order
to ascertain the accuracy of your chronometer, as its longitude is well determined.
Having passed Wreck Reef, the Cumberland's track, marked on Captain Flinders'
chart, may be pursued, passing between Kenn Reef and Frederick Reef, and to the
westward of Alert Reef, carrying no more sail in the night than the ship will bear con-
veniently when hauled to the wind, and using every precaution against unknown
dangers, which in this comparatively unexplored region may possibly still exist. If an
unusual number of boobies and gannets be seen in the evening, it indicates the prox-
imity of a bank and reef; and the direction taken by the birds, if they all go one way,
as is usual in an evening, will nearly shew the bearing of the danger.
Passing about a degree to the eastward of Diana Bank, the next object of attention
is the Eastern Fields, or reefs, wliich lie a degree out from those where Torres Eastern
Strait may be said to commence ; their N. E. end is in lat. 10° 2' S., Ion. 145° 45' E., '''''''^'•
which you may pass half a degree to the eastward, and from hence allow 18 miles
daily for a W. N.W. current, wl)ich now runs to the westward through I'orres Strait.
The best parallel for passing the Eastern Fields is in lat. 9° 45' to 9° 50' S., steer-
ing W. by S.; and afterwards, while there is daylight, and no reefs seen, carry all sail
for Pandora Entrance, which is the best opening yet known to the strait, being 1 ! Pandora
or 12 miles wide between the reefs which form it; its centre is in lat. 9° 54' S., Ion. Entrance.
144° 42' E. If the Eastern Fields be passed in the morning, you may possibly get
through, and obtain a sight of Murray Islands before dark, without seeing the
breakers; but it is more probable that tiio reefs will rtrst be seen; and if tiien the
latitude is uncertain even to 5 miles, you must haul to the wind until an observation
is obtained, for by the latitude alone can the outer reefs be distinguished from each
other.
With the reefs in sight and the latitude known, steer for the Pandora Entrance if
you can fetch it; but if too much to the northward, pass rouud the north end of Port-
lock Reef, which is in lat. f)° 20' S., and haul up S.W. for Murray Islands, in lat. Murray
9° 53' S., Ion. 143° 59' E., and visible 8 or 10 leagues from the deck in clear weather. '''"'"'*■
It is best to approach these islands from iN. E. by N., as reefs project southward and Directions for
eastward from them, and anchor the first night on the nortii side of the largest island, xor'res {13 ''
or otherwise under the reefs whicii lie N. E. of it ; but if neither can be reached before
dark, haul to the wind and make short tacks till daylight, in the space between these
reefs and Portlock Reef.
Murray Islands should not be passed, or quitted if you have anchored there, later
736 TORRES STRAIT. — FLINDERS' ROUTE.
than 10 or 11 a.m., because the sun will get ahead, and obscure the sight before
another good anchorage can be secured. The reef that lies 5 miles to the northward
of the islands should be kept about a mile on the starboard hand in passing, steering
\V. 1. S. with a boat ahead ; for in this part there are many tide ripplings, scarcely to
be distinguished from the reefs. Having passed the ripplings, haul a point more
southward, and after having run 8 or 10 miles from the time that the largest of the
Murray Islands bore South, there will be very few reefs to the northward, and Darn-
ley Island will be seen. On the larboard hand there will be a great mass of reefs,
and these should be followed at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, steering mostly W.S.W.,
and gradually more southward as they are found to trend. Some small patches will
be met with occasionally, but having the boat ahead, and the commander, or a careful
officer, looking out aloft, they may easily be avoided.
The leading mark throughout this part is the line of the Great South-Eastern
Reefs ; and the position of the ship may be known at any time, by laying down bear-
ings of Murray and Darnley Islands on Captain Flinders' chart of Torres Strait ;
allowing 5° of East variation, if the ship's head be westward, and the compass on the
binnacle.
Several low woody isles will appear in sight ahead, or on the starboard bow, and
Half-way before reaching the end of the S. Eastern reefs. Half-way Island, the southernmost
'''""" of them, willbe seen to the S.W., which lies in lat. 10° 7'S., Ion. 143° 19' E. ; and
here you should anchor for the night. If, however, this island can be passed before
3 P.M., and the sun do not obscure the sight, you may push on S. Westward till an
hour before sunset, and anchor under the lee of any of those sand-banks which lie
near the route, the ground being better here than in the eastern part of the strait.
From Half-way Island, continue to follow the Investigator's track, steering S.W. to
S.W. by VV., as the small reefs and banks may admit, and there is no necessity in this
Mount part for a boat to be kept ahead. The flat top of Mount Adolphus, on one of the
Adoipims. York Isles, in lat. 10°38'S., Ion. 142° 36' E., will be the first high land seen, and
afterwards Mount Ernest, which lies 7 or 8 leagues N. Westward ; the cross bearings
of these will shew your situation on the chart, until Double Isle, in lat. 10° 27' S.,
appear in sight, which makes in two small hummocks. Steer for it, passing on the
north side, and haul S. Westward for Wednesday Island, about 3 leagues distant,
Prince of which is the N. E. isle of the southern group of Prince of Wales Islands, and in lat.
10° 30' S., Ion. 14.3° 18' E. Pass it also on the north side about a mile, and the same dis-
tance from Hammond Island, which lies next to it: there will be an extensive reef on
the starboard hand, but the least distance between it and the islands is above '2 miles ;
and a W. vS. W. course by compass will lead fair through the passage, in soundings
from 9 to 6 fathoms.
Booby Isle. BOOBY ISLE, the westernmost of the Prince of Wales Islands, in lat. 10° 36i S.,
Ion. 1 41° 5.3^' E., by Captain King's observations, will soon be seen ahead, appearing
at first like a white sand-bank; this isle maybe passed in soundings of 5 to 7 fathoms,
within one or 2 miles on either side, and you may anchor under lee of this isle : turtle
may occasionally be procured here. From hence, steer afterwards W. by S. 30 or 40
miles, to avoid a large reef about 7 leagues W. N. W. of Booby Island, then towards
the intended port, wherever you are bound, being now clear to the westward of all
dangers in Torres Strait.
If the approach of nigiit, or other circumstances, render it desirable to anchor be-
fore you reach Booby Island, shelter will be found to the N.W. of Wednesday Island,
TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE CLAUDINE. 737
or Hammond Island, which are the northernmost of the Prince of Wales group, and Prince of
lie within about 4 miles of each other, in lat. 10° 30' S. to \0° 35' S., Ion. 142" 10' E. '^^''"'' '''"'"''■
to 142° 20' E.
The route just described, and recommended by Captain Flinders, was formerly fre-
quented ; but vessels now intending- to go through Torres Strait usually enter the
barrier much farther to the southward, as hereafter described.
ROUTE OF THE CLAUDINE AND OTHER VESSELS.
THE NORTHERN ROUTE THROUGH TORRES STRAIT was adopted Routeofthc
by the ships Claudine, Captain J. Welsh, and Mary, Captain Ormond, in September, through'Torres
1818, bound from Port Jackson to Batavia, and having entered it by a 7iew but safe strait.
opening in the Great Barrier, Captain Welsh gave the following directions for entering
the strait by the Claudine Entrance.
Having made the northern part of the Eastern Fields, many parts of which have
nozv shrubs on them, there will be a short day s run from thence to Murray Island, so
that a ship should keep under the N. W. part of these reefs till 4 a.m., and a W. by S.
course from thence will carry her between Portlock Reef to the northward, and Boot
Reef to the southward ; and if the latter is seen in passing, it will answer as a point
of departure in running from thence to the Barrier, should an observation for latitude
not be obtained.*
F'rom Boot Reef the run is about 5 hours \\ . by S. to the Barrier Reef, and the
latter is sometimes visible before Murray Island, although the island is seen in sufficient
time to make the entrance, and if brought to bear W.^ S., run in for the Barrier Reef
with the island on this bearing, and Claudine Entrance may be seen and approached
without fear. You will also see several other openings in the reef, but this, from its
clearness with the above bearing, cannot be mistaken, and on its northern side there is
a patch of sand 20 or 30 feet long, and about 2 feet above water. The course through
this entrance is about W. N. W., and the channel about two cables wide, with very
deep water : within it you will see tvifo small patches, which must be left a consider-
able distance on the right hand.
Having entered this passage, haul up for the southern part of the largest of Murray
Islands, and when about a quarter of a mile within the entrance of the reef you will
have 14 to 10 fathoms clear ground and good anchorage, where you should stop for
the night if you arrive here in the afternoon, and not at Murray Island, as the bay is
covered with patches of coral and foul ground, which occasioned the loss of an anchor
botli to the Claudine and Mary.
Having anchored within the reef, as mentioned above, weigh at daylight and pass
northward of Murray Island, about a cable's length from its contiguous reefs; steer
N. W. from 4 to miles, until you see a reef on the starboard side, which bring to bear
about E. N. E., then the long range of reefs will be seen to the southward, and proba-
bly two or three small patches between the Northern Reef and the Southern Range,
* We made the Eastern Fields at 3 p.m., and ran W. by. S. with a fresh breeze till 8 p.m., then hauled on
a wind under easy sail, making short tiicks till daylight. At 7 a. m. saw the Boot Reef, which we mistook for
the southernmost jjatch of I'ortlock Reef, thinking we had been set to the northward by a current during the
night; we therefore stood to southward, and at noon found ourselves 37 miles South of the entrance, and dis-
covered a reef of breakers stretching N. N. E. and S.S.W. about 24 miles, the southern extremity of which
we made in lat 10" 32' S. : here it formed a bight to N. Eastward, and rounded again to the westward, the
water appearing very shoal within. This danger we named Ormond Reef To prevent a similar mistake, a
ship should keep close under the Eastern Fields till 4 a.m., as directed above.
VOL. II. 5 U
738 TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE CLAUDINE.
which should be passed on the north side. You will be then rather less than a quar-
ter of a mile North of Captain Flinders' track, in the Investigator, and the course
will be West and W.S. AV. ; soon afterwards Darnley Island will be seen on your
starboard quarter, and after passing a bank on the larboard side, you will shortly see
a small woody island, being the easternmost of the cluster of woody isles marked in
Captain Flinders' chart; soon after a sand-bank and reef will be visible on the lar-
board bow : close by this latter you must pass, and Half- Way Island will be seen
bearing about S.W. by S., or S. W.| S. Having gained this island, the most danger-
ous part of the passage is over, and the foregoing directions, by Captain Flinders, may
then be followed. In the track between the northernmost of the Prince of Wales
Island and Booby Island, the Mary had 3 fathoms on a shoal, which was named
Larpent Bank, and the Claudine had (j fathoms on its edge; from the western
extieme of Prince of \A ales Island it bears N. W., and E. by N. f N. from Booby
Island.
The Alert struck on a shoal in lat. 9° 52' S., Ion. 140° 50' E., which appeared to be
about 200 fathoms in length, and about 50 yards broad.
Route of the The uorthem route through Torres Strait was also adopted by Captain
tiirmigh Torres ^^ arington, in the ship Mary Ann, bound to Batavia ; he left Port Jackson, June 24th,
Strait. 1822, with the Almorah and Richmond in company, and his remarks may be useful
to navigators pursuing that route.
Made Bird Islet on Wreck Reef, July 2nd, to test the chronometers ; July 9th, at
noon, saw the Eastern Fields, having experienced a mean daily current of 18 miles to
the north-westward between these places. From Port Jackson to the Eastern Fields,
kept under plain sails in the night, and the sea being smooth, kept the back stays
abaft the tops, w ith lower lifts slack, ready for bracing the yards round in an instant,
if necessary. At 2:^: p.m. July 9th, when the N. E. end of the Eastern Fields bore
S. I W. 3 or 4 miles, steered North 7 or 8 miles under easy sail, then under top-sails
during the night, sometimes braced to the wind, steered W. byS. and occasionally
y\ . S. W. at a low rate, usually about 3 knots, with the lead going. Observed the
meridian altitudes of six stars and the moon, during the night, which gave lat. 9° 56'
and 9° 57' S., and took altitudes of stars for the time by chronometers, which gave
Ion. 145° 15' E. It was considered of primary importance to preserve the parallel of
latitude, as some ships, between the Eastern Fields and Boot Reef, having been set to
the northward, perceived at daylight that they were among nnknoivn reefs, and obliged
to wait for tiie noon observation to ascertain their true situation ; after which time,
the sun, being to the westward, obscures the view, rendering it dangerous to cross the
Barrier Reef, by which ships may be liable to detention another night among innu-
merable dangers. At 8 a.m. saw the Boot Reef from the mast-head bearing W.by S.^S.,
and at 9, passed to the northward of it at half a mile distant, bearing S. ^ E. At
1 1 J saw Murray Island bearing West, and soon after saw the breakers on the Barrier
Reef; a quick succession of squalls at this time prevented any thing being seen above
a quarter of a mile, and the weather being so unfavourable, made it necessary to
heave-to occasionally, although at noon were not far from the Barrier. Observed lat.
9° 53' S., Ion. 144° 24' E., at noon, July 10th, and in an interval between the squalls at
2^ P.M. passed through the Barrier in an opening, rather less than a quarter of a mile
wide, with Murray Island bearing W\ \ S., the course being from W. by N. to W.N.W.
Anchorage at while Sailing througl) the passage. At 4 p.m. anchored under Murray Island in 24
urray :. an . fathoms, foul ground, it bearing S. S. E., distant about 1| miles, the westernmost island
S. S. W.^W., and breakers on a reef W. ^ N., about a mile distant. Observed lat.
TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE INDEFATIGABLE. 739
9°53'S., Ion. 144° If E. by chronometers. The weather being very unfavourable, did
not leave the anchorage at iNIurray Island till the 12th, and then pursued the track
through Torres Strait to the westward, recommended by Captain M'elsh, of the Clau-
dine.
The northern route through Torres Strait was also adopted by Captain B.
Osman, from Port Jackson, in an American ship bound to Bengal, for which he gives
the following remarks.
We left Port Jackson in .May, and when in lat. 9° 46* S., steered West for Torres
Strait, and about Ion. 1-1.5^ 45' E. fell in with the Eastern Fields, which were small de-
tached reefs. Afterwards entered the Barrier Reef about Ion. 145'" E., and 12 or 13
leagues to the eastward of Murray Island, which we passed on tlie north side; then
steered W. by S. i S., with the view of getting more to the southward and to avoid the
coast of New Guinea ; but unfortunately, having no observation for two days, although
steering as above, we found ourselves on the third day in lat.9^ 21' .S., and the high
land of New Guinea in sight from the deck. Here we made little progress ; the strait
in this part being covered over with shoal patches, coral rocks, and reefs innumerable,
made us endeavour to get to the southward, but we were obliged to remain at anchor
most of the following six or seven days, on account of thick, squally, blowing weather.
When the weather became moderate, we weighed and worked to the southward till
in lat. 10'^ 5' S., and found no difficulty on this parallel, in steering for Prince of Wales
Islands.
We had been led to believe that the tides in Torres Strait were very weak, and set ndes.
nearly East and West ; but in the middle of the strait we experienced their velocity
on the springs to be from 3 to 4 miles an hour, the flood. \\ hicli then rises about G feet,
setting N.W. by W. ^ W., the ebb about E. S. E., and their velocity is probably not less
than 2 miles per hour in neap tides. This renders particular attention to the tides
necessary when observations are not obtained, to prevent being set over on the coast
of New Guinea, as we were; which, together with bad weather, lengthened our pas-
sage through the strait to 13 davs.
ROUTE OF THE INDEFATIGABLE.
THE ROUTE OF THE INDEFATIGABLE* towards Torres Strait, by en- I,"d.f"?=^'^
tering the Barrier Reef far to the southward, is preferable to the tracks described
above, as the Indefatigable, drawing 18 feet water, got safely through it in little more
than two days, w ith the Cochin, a small ship, and a brig, which entered the Barrier
with her.
These three vessels left Port Jackson, July 13th, 1815, and knowing, by the Pan-
dora ti-ack, that the Barrier Reef afforded no eligible entrance between lat. 9^ 56' S.,
at the Pandora entrance, and 11'- 25' S., where she was wrecked, they resolved to en-
deavour to find an entrance through the Barrier farther .South, nearly opposite the Sir
Charles Hardy Islands. August 3rd, a.m., steering westward, the Barrier Reef was
discovered, and an opening seen, which proved to be 4 or 5 miles wide ; this was en-
tered at noon, and by observation found to be in lat. ll°oO'S., about Ion. 144^ 10' E.
by an indifferent chronometer. The reef was dry on the north side the entrance several
miles; that on the south side was 10 or 12 feet above the water, consisting apparently
of sand and large masses of rock, with others under water. Steered about G leagues
* Communicated by Joseph Arnold, F.L.S., who was a passenger in the Indefatigable, and who made a
chart of her passage among the reefs, accompanied bv remarks.
5 B 2
Route.
740 TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE INDEFATIGABLE.
westward after entering the Barrier till 5 p.m., August 4th, sounded and got no bot-
tom, and being in an open space surrounded by reefs, excepting a clear opening to
the N. N. W. directly to leeward, made short tacks all night, keeping a boat to lee-
ward. At daylight, were within two cables' lengths of a reef, having no soundings
with the hand-lead close among the breakers.
At daylight, the ship in company was seen about 10 miles to the N. E., with two or
three reefs between us, and an opening appearing to the N.W., we steered for it, in
hope that she would find a passage among the reefs and join us, which she did. After
steering in different directions, making a course about N. N.W., at 9 a.m. passed to the
westward between two reefs high above water, about 2 miles apart ; steered N.W. and
westward, to round the south end of a sand-bank, and at noon observed lat. 11° 25' S.,
the sand-bank then being the only danger in sight from the deck, and bearing S. E.
August oth. At ] P.M. steered westward, to round the south side of extensive reefs
seen to the N.W., and perceiving by the colour of the water that we were in shoal
soundings, immediately got 4 and 3| fathoms, shells and sand. At 2 p.m., steering
N.W. and W. N.W. between extensive reefs to the northward and eastward, and a
long dry reef to the southward, no ground at 15 fathoms, wind S. S. E., sailing at the
rate of 7 knots. At 4 p.m., steering N.W. between extensive reefs above water, saw
two hills to the westward, supposed to be on the main, having to the northward a
point of land covered with trees, distant about 10 miles, which is probably an island.
At 5 P.M., rounded the north point of the reef to the westward, and at 5^ p.m., an-
chored within a mile of its N.W. end, in 15 fathoms, stiff clay, which reef is extensive,
with a basin of smooth water in its centre, and a hillock of sand on its north end,
crowned with a few bushes. An island covered with trees bore from our anchorage
about W. S.W., with reefs stretching to southward and northward, and on the N.W.
reef appeared a single tree ; the main land was obscurely seen bearing from South to
W. N.W., and there were openings between the reefs at S. by E. and North.
At 8 A.M., weighed with a strong breeze at S. E., steered northward, and at 10
passed on the west side of a small island covered with trees, having a reef projecting
to the northward : the main land to the westward moderately elevated. At 11| a.m.,
entered between two extensive reefs, in a passage little more than a mile wide, steer-
ing through to the N.N.W., had soundings of only 4 and 5 fathoms, and soon saw
Mount Adolphus ahead, which we thought at first to be Turtle Island, also a small
woody island bearing W. by N., distant about 3 miles.
At noon, observed lat. 10° 36' S., being then through the passage, and abreast of
Mount Adolphus, too far advanced to tlie northward to proceed between Cape York
and the York Islands, w hich is probably the best passage ; steered to round the latter.
At 1^ P.M., August (3th, in passing on the north side of the northernmost York Island
Grounded near above a mile distant, struck, and grounded on a shoal in 13 feet water, where the ship
York Islands. ]^y jjjj ^^^^ j^jj^ ^.^^^ ^^^^ floated her off at 8 p.m. into deep water ; then anchored, with
the eastern extremity of the northernmost York Island bearing E. ^ N., distant 3 miles,
a sandy beach on ditto E. by S., westernmost extremity of ditto S. S. E., Mount
Adolphus on the largest island S. E. ^ E., Cape York S. by E., Possession Island
S.W. by S., a rock about 4 miles distant W. ^ S., Horned Hill W. i N., Double
Island N.W., and Mount Ernest N. N.W., the tide setting strong to the eastward.
We remained at anchor till the 7th, then weighed at daylight, and steered S.W. ^S,
for Endeavour Strait with a boat ahead, the soundings from 5 to 10 fathoms. The
ship and brig had left us on the 6th, but after passing through Endeavour Strait, we
again fell in with them ; they were now in want of surgical aid, as the Captains of
TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE LALLA ROOKH.
741
both vessels and some of their people had been speared by the natives on the pre-
ceding evening in attempting to land on Possession Island. The natives seemed to
be very numerous, and had lighted large fires on the largest island of Prince of Wales
group, and on many parts of the main land.
When through the strait, steered towards Booby Island, but grounded twice for a Oroumied be-
short time, in passing over the spot where 3 fatlioras is marked in Captain Flinders' vourstraittna
chart; the brig kept more to the southward, and had not less than ti fathoms water. Booby island.
At night we anchored under Booby Island, and procured some turtle.
This SOUTHERN ROUTE of the Indefatigable appears safe, and shorter than Directions.
the northern route, but caution is required in a ship drawing 18 feet water, or upwards.
To proceed by it, the passage through the Barrier Reef opposite the Sir Charles Hardy
Islands ought, if possible, to be entered early in the morning, by which a ship will
soon get to the westward into soundings, and may obtain good anchorage before night,
and avoid the danger of keeping under sail among the reefs. A boat may be kept
ahead, with signals to shew the depth of water in some parts of tlie passage ; and a
careful officer, with other trusty persons, ought to look out sharply from the mast-head
for the shoals, and an anchoring place should be sought for before night.
The Indefatigable's anchoring place is a good station to stop at on the second night,
and may be known by the two hills on the main, two small islands covered with wood,
and the reef with a single tree on it. Leaving this anchorage at dayliglit, the small
bushy island and reef must be left to the right, and soon after Mount Adolphus will
be seen. It is preferable to pass between it and Cape York in the track of Captain
Cook : the course from York Islands to Endeavour Strait is considered safe, with
depths from 5 to 10 fathoms. If you pass through the narrow part of the strait when
the tide runs strong to the eastward, borrow towards the islands that form the southern
^sifle, as the tide sets then strong towards the northernmost island. With the wind
fair, you may reach Booby Island in the evening, passing to the southward of the
two spits marked with 3 fathoms in Captain Flinders' chart, on which the Indefati-
gable struck.
From the time the Indefatigable entered the Barrier, in lat. 11° 50' S., opposite to
the Sir Charles Hardy Islands, until she finally cleared Torres Strait, in lat. 10° 37' S.,
she was little more than 24 hours under sail, exclusive of the first niglit, during which
she endeavoured to keep her station by making short tacks within the Barrier Reef;
and although she ran about 140 miles on account of the various directions of the reefs,
the distance in a straight line is probably not more than 110 miles. The wind kept
brisk about S.W. during the whole of the passage among the reefs, with smooth water,
and there appeared to be a weak north-westerly current.
ROUTE OF THE LALLA ROOKH.
THE ROUTE OF THE LALLA ROOKH towards Torres Strait, adopted by Laiia Rookh
Captain Hugh Steward, of the ship of this name, after leaving Port Jackson, and hav- 1^°"'*-
ing touched at Port JNIacquarie, in 1825, with convicts, is near the Indefatigable's
passage through the Barrier.
Having a northerly wind at leaving Port Macquarie, which veered afterwards to
S.W., the Lalla Rookh passed to the south-eastward of Frederick Reef, Wreck Reef,
and Diana Bank, about 50 miles : when about 40 miles IN . E. of the latter, steered for
742 TORRES STRAIT. — ROUTE OF THE LALLA ROOKH.
the entrance of the Barrier Reef, and when in lat. 1 1° 55' S., being within 5 leagues of
the reefs by computation, steered W. 4 S-» and soon saw breakers ahead at 9^ a.m., the
wind blowing strong at E. S. E. with hard squalls, and a high sea running. At 10,
entered the outer edge of the Barrier Reef, in a passage about 6 miles wide, being then
in lat. l]°55' S., Ion. 144° 2' E. ; steered N.W. about 4 leagues, with reefs on both
sides, and several small openings on the left hand. Perceiving breakers ahead, steered
S.W. through an opening in the reefs, continued on this course 6 miles, then steered
W. by N. 3 leagues in a clear channel, and saw the Sir Charles Hardy Islands bearing
about W. ^ N., and a sand-bank on the larboard bow, which we passed to the north-
ward ; saw another a little farther to W. N.W., and a third sand-ljank in a line with
it, but nearer to the islands, all of which are passed to the northward. Excepting
these three sand-banks, the space in sight appeared clear of danger. Steered for the
north end of the northernmost island, passed it within 1^ miles, and steered about
W. by S. 1^ S. towards the main land, and had a reef on the starboard side, extending
as far as the eye could reach. When within 5 or 6 miles of the islands fronting Cape
Granville, steered N. Westward for Bird Islands, and had several sand-banks and
shoals on the starboard side; at 4^ p.m. passed to the eastward of this group of isles,
and anchored under their lee, in 10 fathoms, soft clay, about half a mile off". Sent a
boat on shore, found many young turtles on the beach. Weighed at daylight, and
steered about N.^W. for another group of islands, which we named Lalla Rookh
Group, where many natives appeared. In approaching this group, a very dangerous
reef extends to the westward, with several sandy islands and banks to the eastward;
but by keeping a good look-out every danger will be seen. We passed to the east-
ward of this group ; saw a passage to the westward between it and a small sandy island,
from which an extensive reef projects to the eastward, which we passed on the east
side ; and having cleared this reef, steered N.W. between it and two other sandy isles,
which were left on the starboard side, then steered W. N.W. to pass between two
small islands ; the westernmost of these we named Aspinall Island, which has an ex-
tensive reef to the S. E. ; the other we called Innes Island, and left it on the starboard
side, then steered along shore for Turtle Island, and had 4^ fathoms on a shoal about
3 miles to the S. E. of it, but deepened to 10 fathoms in hauling to the eastward :
passed the island at Ij miles distance, but 2 miles would be safer. From Aspinall
Island the coast appeared to be clear of shoals, excepting two or three small islands
with reefs adjoining, distant 2 or 3 miles oft" shore, there being a clear large space of
sea after passing Turtle Island, although reefs were visible at a great distance on the
starboard side. Soon saw Mount Adolphus, and steered for it ; kept about 4 miles to
the eastward of the islands that lie East of Cape York, and steered N. N.W. in passing
them, until in mid-channel between them and Mount Adolphus, then W. N.W. and
N.W. by W. for a rock* situated to the north of Cape York, which was passed to the
southward 1^ miles distant. Steered then for the N. E. point of Wednesday Island,
and passed it about 2 miles distant, having kept the lead going, and had no ground at
8 fathoms. From hence, steered VV. by S. ^ S. for a rock above water, to the north-
ward of Hammond Island, which passed about one mile distance ; saw a dangerous
reef extending to the N.W. and westward, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-
* September 7th, 1822, Captain Ashmore, at noon, made the observed lat. 10' 44' S., when a rock ^v^s seen
under water, distant a cable's length, in one with the small island off Mount Adolphus, N. 20 J' W., the low
island N. 37" E., about 4 miles ; rocks above water N. 75|° W., distant 1 mile, detached from each other, and
extending about a mile N.W. by N. and S. E. by S. ; a distant island in one with the low point of Mount
Adolphus N. 50° W. Variation of the compass, with which these bearings were taken, 6° 13' E.
INNER ROUTE. ENDEAVOUR STRAIT. 743
head. After rounding the rock, steered W.S.W. until the Shoal Cape bore S. S. E. ^E.,
then steered for Booby Island, which was seen from the deck when abreast of Shoal
Cape, and we passed that island at 7 p.ini. ; having been only 3.3 hours since entering
the Barrier Reef, and were 14 hours of that time at anchor' under Bird Islands. In
entering the Barrier Reef, by the passage described above, there appears to be little diffi- Directions.
culty or danger, as the reefs and shoals may always be discerned ; but the morning is
the best time to enter, as a ship will, in such case, reach a safe anchorage before the
evening : by entering about noon, she may reach the Sir Charles Hardy Islands before
night; but the Barrier Reef ought not to be entered after noon, unless it be necessary
to wait for an observation when uncertain of the latitude.
INNER ROUTE RECOMMENDED BY CAPTAIN KING.
In Captain P. P. King s account of his Voyages, and surveys of the coasts of Australia, ^"""^'^'f'^d''
Vol. II. Appendix, p. .393, excellent directions are given for the Inner Passage from b7c™i^.*King.
Port Jackson, wiiich ought to be possessed by navigators proceeding to those parts, ac-
companied by the Admiralty charts, published from the surveys of that scientific ofBcer,
and those of the late Captain Flinders ; which may be had from the chartsellers appoint-
ed by the Admiralty. Captain King is convinced that the Inner Route possesses great
advantages over the usual route outside the great Barrier Reefs. " The passage up the
North-east coast," he says, " is not affected by the Monsoons. The South-east trade
blows up the coast during the whole year with little variation, save that during the
months of June, July, and August, it is occasionally, allhougli rarely, suspended by
North-easterly winds, with thick rainy weather. To the southward of Cape Grafton
(16"^ 51' S.) this interruption is of more frequent occurrence ; still, however, the prevail-
ing wind to the northward of Breaksea Spit is from the S. E., and there will be no
difficulty in making an expeditious passage."
ROUTE THROUGH ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.
THE INNER ROUTE, towards ENDEAVOUR STRAIT, was pursued by inner Ro»teto
Captain Cripps, in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. suaiu""
His vessel being crank, he was fearful of passing outside the Barrier Reef, lest he
should miss the proper entrance, and be unable to beat off from it: he therefore made
the land at Buzzard Bay, then followed Captain Cook's track within the reefs, and
passed through Endeavour Strait. Throughout this track the sea was always smooth,
■with moderate depths for anchoring at night, which every ship ought to do ; and if a
good look-out be kept in the day, Captain Cripps thinks this passage may be followed
in a small ship, or in one of moderate size, if not drawing mucli water.
ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is not now much frequented, the passage outside hav-
ing been found safer for large ships ; but it is proper to state, that on the northern side
of the strait, about .3 leagues to the eastward of Cape Cornwall, a harbour was dis-
covered in January, 1823, by Captain J. Lihou, of the ship Zenobia, bound from
Manila to South America, which he named Port Yarborough ; it is in lat. 10° 45' S.,
Ion. 142° 12' E. by account. Two islands front tlie mouth of the harbour on the eastern
side, the largest of whicii, called Falcon Island, is near the N. E. point of the harbour,
and the other island has rocks projecting from it, and a bar extending to the western
shore, where there is a hill called Mount Penleaze, and about iialf a mile inside of the
mount, fresh water was obtained, but whether the produce of a s[)ring, or from the rain
744 ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.
which falls at this season, could not be ascertained. The Zenobia, in crossing over the
bar had "20 feet water, and from 6 to 4^ fathoms, soft ground, inside in the harbour ;
the passage between the islands was not examined, on account of the unfavourable
state of the weather preventing observations being made, during the short time she lay
here to repair her rudder, which had been knocked ofl'on a coral rock, and she lost all
her anchors in proceeding through Torres Straits by the Murray Island Passage, being
the first vessel which succeedecl in sailing through these straits from West to East ;
she was obliged afterwards to anchor with guns in proceeding through this dangerous
route, with cloudy weather, often attended by rain ; and when clear of the Barrier Reefs,
she proceeded to the southward, between New South Wales and JNew Caledonia, and
saw the Sir James Saumarez Shoals, and others already mentioned.
Inner Route THE INNER ROUTE, above mentioned, was ulso followcd by Lieutenant Jcffries,
ipythe in H, ]V1. brig Kangaroo, which vessel sailed from Port Jackson, April 19th, 1815,
Kangaroo. bound to Ceylou, with a detachment of troops. Having thick weather as Wreck Reef
was approached, rendering it unpleasant to run for the narrow channels of the Barrier
Reef, the passage inside the Great Barrier was pursued. April 28th, she rounded
Breaksea Spit, at Sandy Point, Harvey Bay, and filled up her water at Port Bowen,
where she was detained several days by a gale of wind. From hence, the track of
Captain Cook was followed as nearly as possible, inside of Northumberland and Cum-
berland Islands, through Whitsunday Passage ; and such parts as Captain Cook had
passed in the night were at this time passed in the day: at Cape Sandwich, some
fruit was obtained from the natives, who appeared friendly. Having on the 29th
passed Cape Flattery and Endeavour River, where Captain Cook steered out from the
coast, the Kangaroo continued by day to sail along that unexplored part of the coast,
anchoring at night under some convenient reef or shoal ; these were numberless, but
a clear passage was found from .3 to 5 miles off shore ; and from 7 to 9 miles off, the
continuation of the reef and sand-banks appeared, which was first discovered at Cape
Grafton. In passing along the coast, between Cape Flattery and Cape Weymouth, a
large group of islands was discovered, named by Lieutenant Jeffries, Flinders' Group ;
also an extensive bay or gulf, at least 30 miles in depth, which was called Princess
Charlotte Bay, the neighbouring coast presenting a fertile aspect, interspersed with
trees. June 1st, in lat. 13° 32'S., Ion. 143° 47' E. by lunar observation, passed within
10 yards of a mushroom coral rock, about 4 feet under water, but the rays of the sun
prevented the red colour of the water over it from being seen till closely approached.
About 2 miles westward of Bolt Head, grounded on another coral shoal, which was not
discerned, the soundings on this part of the coast varying from 5 to 20 fathoms. On
the 6th, rounded Cape York, and found it to be an island, and not part of the main
land, as hitherto supposed ; anchored here during the night, and passed through En-
deavour Strait on the 7th, carrying from 3 to 3^ fathoms water, about half flood, till
within a few miles of Booby Island ; anchored in the night, and arrived at Timor on
the 19th. Here she remained till June 26th, and arrived July 24th in Colombo Road,
Ceylon. Several small ships have pursued the Inner Route, by entering the Barrier
Reef far South, and keeping along the coast, or in its proximity, where the water is
always smooth, with moderate depths for anchoring in the night. But although this
route may be used with proper caution, much greater delay is experienced by anchor-
ing always in the night, than in the other routes, where the Barrier is entered farther to
the northward, and thereby the passage through, amongst the reefs and dangers, is
much shortened.
PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON TO THE NORTHWARD. 745
REMARKS ON THE PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON TOWARDS TORRES STRAIT, BY
CAPTAIN TOWNS.
The following remarks on the passage from Port Jackson towards Torres Straits uireetionsby
have been communicated by Captain Robert Towns, of the ship Bonavista, which foSingtom
vessel was wrecked on Kenn Heef, 18th Marcli, 1828; and as they appear to be the J'on Jackson.
result of great experience, are introduced here as a farther development of this intri-
cate navigation.
DEPARTING FROM PORT JACKSON before the middle of April, or with
a northerly wind, it is proper to avoid the coast, and obtain an offing, as a southerly
current prevails from September until April in Hne weather, and in all seasons with a
northerly wind. Having reached Ion. 157° or 158°, you will be enabled to steer for
the east end of Wreck Reef with a free wind, which is of consequence, as the trade
wind usually hangs from the eastward early in the season, with thick, showery, stjually
•weather, if you leave Port Jackson with a southerly wind, or after the mithlle of
April, it will not be necessary to proceed so far to the eastward, and the track of the
Cumberland, Captain Flinders, may be adopted, or a little more easterly, but with
great caution, as a reef is said to have been seen in 1826 to the southward of Cato
Bank. As you approach Wreck Reef, the greatest attention is indispensable, to
guard against the currents ; and on no account pass it without sighting Bird Island,
on the eastern part, in order to prove the chronometers, and have a correct departure.
From hence, the Cumberland's track may be pursued as far as lat. 15° S., passing be-
tween Kenn Reef* and Frederick Reef, and to the westward of Alert Reef |" and Diana
Bank. Having reached lat. 15°, a course more westerly may be followed, to fall in
with the Barrier Reef, nearly opposite Sir Charles Hardy Islands, by reducing the
latitude to 12° 10' or 12° S. ; when in Ion. 145° E., then steer West for the Barrier,
where several safe passages through it will be found between lat. 12° 10' and 11° 55' S. Pas^agis
As you approach, a reef detached from the Barrier may probably be seen, but en- Barrier li'ecfs.
deavour to make it in lat. 12° 0' S., Ion. 143° 55' E., where an open space will be per-
ceived on either side ; this detached reef appears to be 3 or 4 miles in circumference,
with smooth water in the centre, and several small rocks on the N. W. side. ^^ hen
oft' its eastern side, breakers will be visible from the mast-head, their eastern extremity
bearing N.E. byN. about 10 leagues distant, and trending from thence to the west-
ward ; at the same time the reef to the southward will bear about South or S. by W.,
distant 8 or 10 miles, and trending from thence to the westwartl and noithward.
* The Bonavista was wrecked on this reef, March 18th, 1828; having passed about 15 miles to the east-
ward of Bird Island by chronometers, but did not see it. Shortly afterwards, the weather became squally, with
heavy rain, the wind varying between E. N. E. and E. S. E., with a cross sea, and having been obliged to run
to leeward by the violenceof someof the squalls, hauled up N. by W. after midnight, to guard against Frederick
Reef, naturally expecting the current to be setting to the westward. But about 30 minutes after midnight,
broken water was seen on the lee-bow, the helm was put down, but the vessel not coming round, was immedi-
ately among the breakers, and become a complete wreck in three minutes. The current was found setting over
the reef at the rate of 4 knots to the noythtvard, and must liave carried (lie vessel 20 miles N. Easterly in 61, hours ;
which proves the necessity of following the advice of the late Captain Flinders, by keeping a good look-out and
carrying reduced sail in the night, on account of the uncertainty of the strength and direction of the current
in this dangerous navigation, particularly in the blowing weather which usually accompanies the change or
full of the moon, and it was at the moon's change that the above-mciitloned ship was wrecked.
f The brig Venus was wrecked on this reef in 1826, having drifted upon it whilst lying to during the
night, and found a very strong current setting over the reef.
VOL. II. 5 c
746 PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON TO THE NORTHWARD. BARRIER REEFS.
After passing to the northward of the detached reef at IJ or 2 miles distance, steer
West until you approach the Grand Barrier, distant about 8 miles, trending North
and South, or rather forming a deep concavity. When it is approached within 1 or l^
miles, steer along its edge to the northward, keeping a good look-out from the mast-
head in case there should be any detached patches : if the weather is clear, one or
two sand-hills will be perceived within the main barrier, the southernmost of which is
a guide for the passage shortly to be described. As you run along the edge of the
Barrier, several safe openings or passages will be seen through in a S.W, or W.S.W.
stead Passage, direction; but the one now to be mentioned, named Stead Passage, I have passed
Directions. through twice, and it may be distinguished by the following marks. In running to
the northward, after having passed two or three small openings, and approaching that
part of the reef which trends to the N. E. with high breakers, the two last or northern
passages will be seen, the northernmost opening at W. N. W. or N. W. by W., which
appears very clear. About 2 miles to the southward of this entrance is the passage
mentioned, and in lat. 11° 56' or 11° 57' S., running through the reef in a W. S. W.
direction, and as soon as you open it haul for mid-channel ; if the weather be clear,
the southern sand-hill will be seen about a sail's length on with the S.W. point of the
reef which forms the channel to the northward, and bearing about W. by S., and when
in a fair-way for Sir Charles Hardy Islands, will bear W. ^ N. If hazy weather ob-
scure the sand-hills, when you enter the passage in the Barrier, a small dry sand-patch
on the IS. E. point of the reef will be seen, which forms the south side, and two large
black stones, resembling turtle at a distance, on the west side, and a dry sand-bank
on the N. W. side of the reef, which forms the north side, which are sufficient to dis-
tinguish this from any other passage ; yet the other to the northward, running through
W. N. W., seems equally clear, and the most direct, as appeared from botli sides of
the Barrier.
Having entered the channel above described, keep a little to the northward of mid-
channel, to avoid discoloured water, which will be visible from the mast-head; al-
though I have passed over in 12 fathoms, it will be advisable to give it a berth, as
there is plenty of room to the northw^ard ; and when through, you have a fine clear
passage and smooth sea, as far as the visible horizon. After rounding the S.W. point
of the north reef at half a mile distance, steer \V. by N. northerly until you make the
second sand-hill, which pass on the north side at three-quarters of a mile distance,
and from hence you will see a third sand-hill, smaller and lower than the two for-
mer, bearing about W. N. W. from the second sand-hill ; pass this also on the
north side at the same distance : all these sand-hills have reefs projecting to S. E.
andN. W.
Time foi enter- It IS nccessary to observe, that the best time to enter the Barrier is in the morning or
ingthe Barrier, garly in the forenoon ; for in such case, with a good breeze, you will reach Bird Islands
before night; but if the Barrier is entered after noon, it will be advisable to anchor
under the second or third sand-hill in 9 or 10 fathoms ; otherwise, run for the Sir
Charles Hardy Islands, and there anchor for the night ; but this should only be done
in a case of emergency, as from the latter place you will haul out N. E. by E. to clear
Cockburn Reef, and gain a fair-way, which may cause delay if the wind be far easterly,
although regular tides were experienced in the Asia, when at anchor off Sir Charles
Hardy Lslands, the flood setting to the westward, and the ebb to the E. N. E. By
anchoring under the second sand-hill, a course from thence VV.by N. or more north-
erly will clear the east end of Cockburn Reef, which bears from Sir Charles Hardy
great island N. E. by i\., and from Cockburn Island East ; give this reef a berth of 1
FROM PORT JACKSON TO THE NORTHWARD. — BARRIER REEFS. 747
to H miles in passing, as some shoal patches lie detached to the northward of it; one
about If miles North of its eastern extremity, and the other about 3 miles from its
central part, bearing about N. N. W. from the west end of Sir Charles Hardy Island, 7
miles distance, and the same distance westward of the former patch. Afterwards steer
West until you approach the extensive reef to the N.W. of (.'ockburn Island, keeping
always a good look-out from the mast-head for any patches of reefs that may exist :
steer along the verge of this reef at a reasonable distance, edging to the northward,
■with the lead going, until you make a small sand-bank to the W. N.W., and when this
bears West, if the weather be clear, you will see the Bird Islands open to the north-
ward of the sand-bank ; then haul up gradually for Bird Islands, giving the sand-bank
a wide berth ; pass between it and another sand-bank and reef, which bear from the
former about N.W. miles distant, with a clear channel of 10 and 19 fathoms between.
Having passed these two last dangers. Captain King's chart* of Torres Strait will be
found very correct, and the best guide; there is now an open channel, from (J to 10
miles wide, between the main of Australia and the reefs and islands fronting that coast,
which form the channel, and afford shelter from the sea.
If the Barrier is entered before noon, and the passage be pursued for Bird Islands,
great caution is requisite w hen the sun is to the westward ; but there is anchorage
throughout the passage from the Barrier to Booby Island. If the Barrier is entered
late in the afternoon, and there be not sufficient daylight to reach the sand-hills, you
may anchor immediately inside the reef. If at anchor under the sand-bills, weigh at
daylight, and with the usual breeze you will reach good anchorage at Mount Adolphus,
Turtle Islands, or Cairn-cross Island. The foregoing passage, directly to the north-
ward of Cockburn Reef, discovered by Captain Towns and Captain T.F. Stead, in the
Asia, is certainly the best yet known, and with projier caution may be considered quite
safe : it is much safer than the dangerous passage to the westward of the Sir Charles
Hardy Islands, on account of the extensive reef and rocky ground which lie to the
westward of those islands, and which we sounded during one day, in order to buoy off
a channel for the Asia, which however was found impracticable, although many spots
may be found with 3, 4, or 5 fathoms water, where vessels might cross over, by jiick-
ing out the passage from a mast-head view ; yet the risk is great, particularly with a
large ship.
If from necessity a vessel be obliged to attempt this passage, the following remarks Remarks on
may be of utility. Steer from the Sir Charles Hardy large island ^^'. by S. and VV. S.W. ; [{j^ ^ettward"
with the lead going, you will carry irregular soundings from 8 to fathoms along a of Hardy
very extensive bank, which lies to the S.W. of the islands. As you approach the dan- ^^'"" "'
ger, which lies about G miles from them, the vessel should be under easy sail, to enable
you to see the rocks in time to avoid the danger, particularly if the sun be ahead ; a
dry sand-bank will be seen to the soutliward. W hen this bank bore South, the Bo-
navista had crossed the danger, and in deep water, anil then steered along the south
side of Cockburn Reef, which is dry in many parts, carrying 12 fathoms water within
two cables' lengths of it. A middle ground lies between this reef and the islands off
Cape Grenville, about 2 miles to the westward of the dry sand-bank, on which middle
ground had •") fathoms, then edged to the northward, and deepened into 12, and fol-
lowed the course of the reef until nearly abreast of Sunday Island, when Bird Islands
were seen bearing ]N. N.W. ; anchored under the N.W. side of the latter, in 10 fathoms,
sand and coral, at G p.m., having entered the barrier at lOf a.m. on the same day.
• North-East coast of Australia, Sheet S, published by the Admiralty.
5 c 2
748
FROM PORT JACKSON TO THE NORTHWARD. BARRIER REEFS.
Bird Island"!
The several
passages com-
pared.
From Bird Islands, the track on Captain King's chart is the best guide. Bird Islands
appear three in number, low and bushy, and united by coral patches : all around them
the anchorage is tolerably good, and on the north side there is good shelter from the
southerly winds. The flood rises considerably here, and at Cairn-cross Island, and sets
strong to the northward.
The Bonavista, after weighing at daylight from the Sir Charles Hardy Islands, in
purstn'ng her course to the northward, left Cockburn Island and Turtle Island to the
westward, and several extensive reefs to the eastward : here the channel is contracted
until you pass Turtle Island, which several vessels have done on the western side, where
they found dangers and shoal water. Capt. Proctor, in 1826, discovered a bank H miles
W. N.W. from Turtle Island, having on it 6 feet water. Shortly after leaving Cairn-
cross Island, Mount Adolphus may be seen, which with Cape York and Albany Islands
are high. A bold rock lies to the northward of Cape York, which may be seen from Al-
bany islands in clear weather ; which rock should be passed to the westward, as a reef
projects from it about half a mile to the N.W. ; pursuing a N.W. course or a little more
westerly, as the current may require, to pass to the eastward of Wednesday Island.
The channel here again becomes more contracted between the islands on the South
and an extensive reef on the North. Round Wednesday Island at a moderate distance,
and as you haul up, guard against a long flat that lies to the westward of it ; then, in
steering to the westward, pass at rather less than a quarter of a mile to the northward
of a high bold rock, which lies ofl" Hammond Island, then haul W. S.W. or more
southerly for a, patch of rocks above water, about 4 miles distant from the bold rock :
this patch requires caution, as a small reef projects about 2 cables' lengths to the north-
ward, with apparently deep water between it and the patch : pass as close to this reef
as can be done with prudence, to avoid dangers said to exist to the northward ; this
beinji' the most intricate part of the passage, where some shoal spots were seen in 1835,
not apparently marked in the chart. After passing the last-mentioned rocks. Booby
Island will be seen from the mast-head in clear weather, for which steer W. by S. or
West, taking care that it be not brought to the westward of W.S.W., when you ap-
proach it within 8 or 10 miles, to avoid the shoal or mud-bank, about 3 miles East of
it. and extending E. N. Eastward, upon which several ships have grounded. This
passage from York Islands to Booby Island is preferable to Endeavour Straits, parti-
cularly in a vessel drawing above 12 feet water. In 1827, the Bonavista grounded oft"
Cape Cornwall 4 miles from the shore, with the north land bearing N.by W., and a
bluff' point, which was thought to be Possession Island, East. While running in the
night, steering W. N.W., had 8, 7, then 6 fathoms; hauled to the westward, but imme-
diately grounded, and at half a cable's length to N.W. found only feet water, but
deep water to the southward. After floating off" the shoal, hauled to southward and
anchored in 8 fathoms ; next morning, found difficulty iu crossing the extensive flat, on
account of many shoal patches scattered over it, and the water here being thick and
muddy, these patches were not visible. Although many vessels have passed through
here without grounding, others have not been so fortunate, and in large vessels the risk
is considerable.
In concluding these remarks on the foregoing passage, it should be stated that entering
the Barrier opposite the Sir Charles Hardy Islands, is considered far preferable to that
formerly pursued by the Eastern Fields and Murray Island ; the latter route being more
circuitous, and unless you fall in with the Eastern Fields very early in the morning, and
have a strong breeze to carry you to Murray Island, 100 miles distant from the Fields,
you will be liable to error in the reckoning by uncertam currents during the night,
FROM PORT JACKSON TO THE NORTHWARD. BARRIER REEFS. 749
which has proved fatal to several vessels. At Murray Island, and inside the barrier,
being the hist anchorage where the ground is coral, and the water deep, you are liable
to sutler the loss of anchors; and if the wind be far southward, which often happens,
vessels must remain at this place; several have from this cause been detained at
anchor under Murray Island eight and ten days, by southerly winds and fogs, although
this is not usual. After leaving Murray Island you have no guide or land-mark, con-
sequently the vessel must be directed by a person marking the dangers from the mast-
head ; this, however, is very difhcult if the sun be ahead, or near the line of sailing,
whici) is the case every afternoon.
On the contrary, by running for Stead Passage, or Brown or Winter Passage, a
little farther South, near the Sir Cliarles Hardy Islands, tliere is anchorage directly
within the Barrier, and if uncertain of the latitude as you approach near it, there is
sufficient time after the noon observation to reach safe anchorage; if the evening is
near, at entering the Barrier, you can anchor immediately under the reef These pas-
sages have also the advantage of land-marks and cross-bearings not only through the
Barrier Reef, but throughout the channel afterwards ; although the necessity of a good
look-out from the mast-head is indispensable, the land-marks will prevent the mis-
taking of one reef for another.
The course along the coast being nearly North, renders the prevailing southerly
winds favourable, neither is this route subject to fogs, and from Bird Islands the sun
cannot obscure the shoals from your view in steering the channel course ; these are
advantages, exclusive of the usual wide channel between the coast and the reefs, which
make this route far preferable to that dangerous northern passage from Murray Island
to Wednesday Island.
The brig Guide, Captain Ashmore, with the ships Frederick and Portland in com-
pany, August •29th,1828, entered the Barrier, apparently by Stead Passage, a little before
noon, through a gap about three-quarters of a mile wide, steering W. S.W. ; but there
were two green patciies in the middle of the passage, over the tail of one of which the
Frederick passed, and thought there were 6 or 7 fathoms water over it. The latitude
of this passage was 11° oT 8\, observed at noon, when a little inside the Barrier; and
another opening was seen about a mile to the northward of the channel, by which
these ships entered the Barrier.
In lat. \\°m' S., Ion. 144° 8' E., there is an opening in the Barrier Reefs, tlirough
which the Ann passed in August, 1825, on the north side of a small isle, called Raine
Islet: and the same vessel, in September, 18-26, entered at 10 a.m. through an opening,
in lat. 11° 41' S., between Raine Islet and extensive reefs to the southward.
The foregoing Barrier Reef Passages, directly to the eastward of tlie Sir Charles safe opemngs
Hardy Isles, have now become of great importance in the navigation to Australia, as kJ^!"* """■'"
several safe channels through the Barrier have lately l)een discovered, which are laid
down on the chart of these passages, pul)lislied by me in 1830, and subsetjuently cor-
rected. Several of these openings are nearly contiguous to each other, there being
three safe passages through the Barrier, between lat. 11° 53' and 11° 57^' S; and
another safe channel, about half a mile wide, in lat. 1-2°0'S., was discovered 17th .June,
1829, by Captain Robert Brown, through which he passed in the ship Lord Melville;
and again, May 19th, 18.35, in the ship ISew Grove.
The following is an extract from his journal of the New Grove s late passage. Sailed
from Van Diemen Land Ai)ril 2.9th, 18.35. At 5 p.m., May 13th, saw Kenn Reef bear-
ing from IN. by E. to A'. N.W., distant 5 or V, miles, consisting of sand-banks, with a
rock at the IS.W. part, about 30 feet above th sea. May 19lh, saw the Barrier Reef;
750
FROM PORT JACKSON EASTWARD OF NEW GUINEA,
Openings in
the Barrier
Reefs.
laid by for the meridian observation, which gave lat. 12° 0' S. as expected, which being
that observed in our passage in the Lord Melville through the Barrier in 1829, bore away
and entered it at 1 hour 30 minutes p.m., and at 4 p.m. anchored under the second
sand-hill. At a.m.. May 20th, weighed, and steered W. N.W., and in proceeding to
the northward of Cockburn Reef, passed between some patches of sunken rocks, with
probably 14 or 16 feet water over them, and bearing about N. N.W.iW. from the
west end of the largest of the Sir Charles Hardy Islands, distant about 3^ leagues.
Navigators in possession of the little chart of these passages will not be inclined to
follow the circuitous and dangerous route by the Eastern Fields and Murray Islands
into Torres Strait.
In lat. 12° 5'S., Ion. 143° 48' E., there is an opening in the Barrier Reefs, through
which the Nimrod passed in 1822. Betwixt lat. 12° 10' and 11°.35'S., there are
several openings in the Barrier, that will afford a passage to ships approaching within
these parallels.
In lat. 12° 45' S., Ion. 143° 47' E., there is another small opening in the Barrier,
through which the Hibernia entered in 1810.
OUTER PASSAGES FROM PORT JACKSON, OR VAN
DIEMEN LAND, TOWARDS INDIA AND CHINA.
To sail from
Port Jackson
towards Hin-
doostanbytbe
Pitt Passage.
Wells Reef.
Bellonaand
Rennell Is-
lands.
Solomon Is-
lands.
Loiiisiade.
PASSAGE TO THE EASTWARD OF NEW GUINEA AND THROUGH ST. GEORGE CHANNEL,
WITH A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS AND DANGERS NEAR THE ROUTE.
THE BEST ROUTE from PORT JACKSON towards HINDOOSTAN, when
neither the southern passage nor that by Torres Strait is adopted, seems to be round
New Guinea, then through Pitt Passage and the Java Sea, or out through the Ombay
Passage into the open sea, which route, like the other, ought only to be followed when
the South-east Monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator.
THE ISLANDS AND DANGERS lying near this route, besides those already
described, are the following.
Wells Reef, in lat. 12° 20' S., Ion. 158° 45' E. An extensive shoal, seen by the
Pandora in 1791, and by the Indispensable in 1790, extending in a N.W. and S. E.
direction from lat. 12° 8' to 12° 46' S,, its northern extreme being in Ion. 160° 30' E.
A SMALLER SHOAL to the eastward, in lat, 12° 26' S., Ion. 161° 42' E.
To the northward of these dangers are Bellona and Rennell Islands : the
former is represented as a high round island, in lat. 11° 11' S.,lon. 159° 54' E. ; the lat-
ter a long island, lying N. W. and S. E., between the parallels of 1 1° 10' and 1 1° 36' S.,
its north point being about 20 miles to the eastward of the centre of Bellona Island.
Next to the northward lies the extensive chain of the Solomon Islands, stretch-
ing to the north-westward from Cape Turville or Oriental, the south point of San
Christoval Island, in lat. 10° 57' S., Ion. 162° 17' E., to the north point of Bouka Island,
in lat. 5° 0' S., Ion. 154° 38' E.
To the westward, between the parallels of 12° and 9° S., is the Louisiade of
FROM PORT JACKSON EASTWARD OF NEW GUINEA. ISLANDS. 751
Bougainville and the D'Entrecasteaux Isles, stretching towards New Guinea. These
are yet but little known. The eastern point of the Louisiade is called Cape Deliver-
ance, and is in lat. ITIS'S., 153° 23' E., 10 leagues N.E. of which lies a low island,
covered with trees, called Rossel or Satisfaction Island : a reef stretches across from
this island to the main land to the westward, and there appears to be a reef terminat-
ing in a small islet oft its eastern end.
There is an extensive bank, called the Pocklington Bank, discovered in 1825, in Pockiington
lat. 10° SO' S., and extending East and West from Ion. 155° 12' to 155° 40' E. ^'"'''•
LAUGHLAN ISLANDS were discovered by Captain David Laughlan, in the Lauguiini
ship Mary, from Port Jackson, bound to Bengal, with the ship Clarkson in company. '^''""'*-
The following description, extracted from Captain Laughlan's journal, shews them to
be neaily in the direct route of ships steering for St. George Channel, formed between
New Britain and New Ireland.
August 16th, 1812, at 2 p.m. saw from the deck a group of islands ahead, distant
about 7 miles ; hauled to the wind N. by E. in order to clear the reefs, which appeared
to surround six or seven islands extending E. S. E. and W. N. VV. fi^ or 4 leagues,
and bearing from N. N. W.i W. to N. W. by W. At 3f p.m. extremes of the land
bore from West to S. W.^W., distant 7 or 8 miles, appearing like two islands: saw
several coco-nut trees on the western extremity, and a reef with high breakers ap-
peared to encompass the islands. The S. E. extreme of these islands is in lat. 9°20'S.,
Ion. 153° 45' E. by chronometer from Port Jackson, or in Ion. 153° 40' E. measured
back from Cape St. George.
The Laughlan Islands appear to be the eastern extreme of a chain of islands and reefs
which, with occasional interruptions, extend in a W.by N. direction to New Guinea.
A wide channel separates the chain from New Britain and New Ireiaud, which lie to
the northward.
NEW BRITAIN is the name given to the large islands which stretch between New Britain
the parallels of 4° and <)i°S. from near the N. E. point of New Guinea and the S. W.
part of New Ireland, and having Darapier Strait to the westward, and St. George Chan-
nel to the eastward of them.
NEW IRELAND, which forms the eastern side of St. George Channel, is a nar- New Ireland.
row island, upwards of 200 miles in length W. N. W. and E. S. E. St. George Chan-
nel is formed between its southern part and the east end of New Britain.
Cape St. George, in lat. 4° 45' S., Ion. 152° 40' E., is the southern promontory Cape St.
of New Ireland, and as the current often sets to the northward and westward when ^•'°'^''-
near the southern coast of New Britain, it is prudent for ships bound through St.
George Channel to keep well to the eastward in steering for the cape, and to round
it pretty close.
Gower Harbour, a little way within Cape St. George, is formed between the shore Gower Har-
of New Ireland and Wallis Island, called Marteux by the French, having a small ''""'"•
green island fronting the southern entrance. The depths are from 4<J to 30 fathonrts
in this harbour or gut, whicii is about half a mile wide. There is also anchorage in
Turtle Bay, on the'north side of the west point of Wallis Island, in 28 or 30 fathoms,
but the two coves opposite to the north point of this island are the most convenient
places to moor and procure water : the easternmost, called English Cove, has a brook of
fresh water that falls into it, and they lie close to each other. Wood may also beprocured.
752
FROM PORT JACKSON EASTWARD OF NEW GUINEA.— ISLANDS.
Carteret Har-
bour.
Port Hunter.
Carteret Harbour.aboiit 2 leagues to the north-westward of Wallis Island, is not
easilv discerned, unless a ship keep near the shore, it being- formed in a concavity of
the coast; and Coco-nut Island, at the entrance, being low, is obscured by the adjoin-
ing high land of New Ireland.
Leioh Island is small, and lies near the south end of Coco-nut Island ; betwixt the
former and Booby Rock, fronting the southern mouth of the harbour, is the passage
in, by the South Channel. The North Channel is formed between the western point
of the harbour and the north-west end of Coco-nut Island, and both channels are nar-
row, although there is plenty of room inside : a ship may anchor in 25 or 30 fathoms,
soft mud, close under the north side of Coco-nut Island, and be well sheltered. Wood
is got on this island, and very good water conveniently, on the coast of New
Ireland, to the northward of the anchorage ; but this harbour aflbrds no other refresh-
ments.
The anchorage is in lat. 4° 48' S., Ion. 152° 34' E. ; variation 7° E. in 1780. The tide
flows once in 24 hours, and rises about 6 feet.
Port Hunter is a small bay, formed at the N. W. part of Duke of York Island,
where a siiip may anchor in 20 or 25 fathoms, soft ground, within l^ cables' length
of the shore ; but farther in, the bottom is not good. Fresh water is got on the east
side the bay, where it issues out of the front of a high bank, close to the sea ; and
it should be filled from half ebb to half flood, for the tide rises about 6 feet, and flows
up to the place from whence the water issues.
A ship touching here for water ought to cover the watering party by boats well
armed, or she may moor near the shore for that purpose, because the island is inhabited,
and the natives are of warlike appearance.* Coco-nuts, sugar-cane, plantains, yams,
and other fruits, were seen on this island, also hogs and fowls. It is about 3 leagues
in extent, moderately elevated, and the fair channel is to the eastward, betwixt it and
the coast of New Ireland.
Fead Islands.
Goodman Is-
land and Sand-
bank.
Lyra Shoal.
FEAD ISLANDS, lying to the eastward of New Ireland, and extending nearly
N. W. and S. E., about 9 leagues, were seen Feb. 16th, 1826, by Captain Renneck,
of the Lyra, southern whaler, belonging to Messrs. Enderby ; they consist of an irregu-
lar chain of low isles and sand-banks, encircled by a reef, the northern extreme of
Avhich is in lat. 3° 9' S., Ion. 154° 22' E. The southern part of the chain is separated
from that to the northward by a gap or apparent passage, and this southern part,
called Goodman Island, is in lat. 3° 27' S., Ion. 154° 45' E. ; but to the southward of
this southern extremity of the chain there is a detached sand-bank and reef, in lat.
3° 33' S., Ion. 154° 37' E. by chronometer. These islands abound with coco-nuts, and
some of them are inhabited, as upon the beach of one of the islands about 100 natives
were observed waving green boughs.
LYRA SHOAL, also discovered by Captain Renneck, February 18th, 1826, ap-
peared to be a narrow spit, extending N. E. and S.W., from about lat. 1°4B'S. to
1° 59' S. ; and in the middle part, where the Lyra passed over. Ion. 153° 28' E. by chro-
nometer, coral rocks were seen under the ship, and over these the depth was pro-
bably not more than 4 or 5 fathoms, but before the lead could be hove she got into
deep water, clear of the shoal.
* The vessel in which Captain Hunter proceeded from Port Jackson to Batavia touched here for water, hav-
ing missed Carteret Harbour. The natives were hostile, and made an attack on the watering party, who fired
on them ; they were kept at a distance afterwards, by firing a few shots into the wood at times.
FROM PORT JACKSON EASTWARD OF NEW GUINEA. — ISLANDS AND DANGERS. 753
On the coast of New Britain, westward of Duke of York Island, are the remarkable
hills called Mother and Daughters, with a small, flat volcanic hill near them.
THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS and the contiguous dangers form a large group, Admiralty
extending from about lat. 1°50'S. to 3° 10' S., Ion. 14(J° 0' E. to about 148° 6' E. The ^''''"'''
'a
Friendship, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1800, with another ship in com-
pany, passed between the large southern island and others to the northward, and had
20 fathoms water in the passage. The Great Island is high, lying in the middle of
the group, and most of the small isles which encircle it are fronted by shoals.
There is anchorage opposite a village, on the west side the southern island ; and
about 12 leagues westward of this island, and South from the mountain on Great Ad-
miralty Island, is a dangerous reef in lat. 2° 42' S.
The Admiralty Islands and Reefs were seen May 19th, 1824, in the ship Sherburne,
and the southernmost isle was found to be in lat. 2° 39' S., Ion. 146° 40' E., or 6° 19' W.
from Cape St. George by chronometers. Tiiis island, and another small isle near it,
appeared to be the eastern boundary of an extensive reef lying to the southward of the
Admiralty Islands, and from the mast-head breakers were seen 8 or 9 miles west-
ward of the small isles ; but between the latter and the breakers the sea appeared smooth,
although they may be connected, and in such case, the dangers will extend about 10
miles East and West, and 4 miles North and South : at the northern part of the
breakers, straggling rocks were seen above water.
SHERBURNE SHOAL appears to be a new discovery, made 15th May, 1824, by sherbume
Captain G. White, in the ship Sherburne, on his passage from Chili towards Bengal. ^''°*''
An extensive range of breakers was first seen at 3 p.m., bearing from N.W. to N.N.E.,
distant 3 miles, with rocks above water in several places; steered S.W. 7 miles, in a
thick squall with rain, and at 4 p.m. again saw the shoal bearing from N.W. by W. to
N. N. E., distant rather more than a mile from the nearest part, which was a dry sand-
bank 3 or 4 feet above the surface of the sea, and forming the S. E. part of the shoal.
At 5 P.M. a small rock on the S. E. part of the shoal bore N. by W., distant 4| or
5 miles, no land visible from the mast-head although the weather was clear. The dry
sand-bank is small, and this is the only part of the shoal above water, excepting the
rocks, .some of which appeared to be about 20 feet above the surface of the .sea. When
some high rocks on the northern extreme of tlie shoal bore North, and a large flat rock
about N.W., the breakers were very high as far as could be seen to the northward, ex-
tending from N. E. by N. to N.W. by W., which latter bearing appeared to be the
western extreme of the shoal. The extent of this shoal from East to West seemed to
be 12 or 13 miles, and from North to South about 8 miles, the north-eastern and south-
eastern parts bearing S.W. and N. E. from each other, having a deep bight between,
into which the ship was running when the weather cleared up, and providentially exhi-
bited the danger. This shoal is rendered particularly dangerous, by its situation being
directly in the track of ships proceeding from St. ( ieorge Ciiannel towards tiie northern
coast of New Guinea. No observation for latitude was obtained when near the shoal,
but on the following day, the latitude by account differed only 6 miles from that
by observation, which made the sand-bank, or south-eastern part of the slioal, in lat.
3° 15' S., Ion. 148° IG' E., or 4° 4.3' W. from Cape St. George by chronometers, which
is thought to be nearly its true situation.
CIRCULAR REEF, to the westward of Sherburne Shoal, explored November 7th, circular Reef.
VOL. II. 5 u
754
EASTERN ROUTE FROM PORT JACKSON TOWARDS NEW GUINEA.
1825, by Captain Renneck, in the Lyra, is in lat. 3° 18' S., Ion. 147° 40' E., and about
3 or 4 miles in diameter, having deep water inside, with an opening, about a quarter of
a mile wide, at the N. N.W. part : the reef on the outside is steep to.
Sydney Shoal. SYDNEY SHOAL, to the Westward of Circular Reef, was discovered by Captain
Austin Forrest, bound from Port Jackson towards Bengal, in the ship Sydney. At
I A.M. May iOth, 1806, she struck upon it, and soon bilged, it being then covered at high
water ; but some points of the rocks appeared above the surface at low water, and there
were no soundings close to the shoal. The boats steered from it N. by E. |- E. 58
miles, and the Admiralty Islands were then seen, bearing N.N. E., distant .3 or 4 leagues,
by -which, and other observations, this dangerous shoal was found to be in lat. 3°20'S.,
Ion. 140° 50' E.
Sailing direc-
tions.
Bougainville
Island.
Shoals, and
ISouka Island.
A SHIP intending to proceed by THE ROUTE ROUND NEW GUINEA,
may, from Van Diemen Land or Port Jackson, steer to the E. N. E. and N. E. until
in about Ion. 160° E., then to the northward, keeping nearly on that meridian with the
South-east trade. A good look-out is necessary, in the vicinity of islands or dangers
lying near the track, and as undiscovered dangers probably exist, such good look-out
ought never to be omitted.*
When lat. 23° S. is approached, be more particularly on your guard, for several
dangerous reefs lie between lat. 23|° and 18° S., some of which have been lately dis-
covered, and probably other unknown dangers exist in their neighbourhood, in that
part of the ocean between New Caledonia and the opposite coast of New Hol-
land.
Having got into lat. 13° or 14° S., a north-westerly course should be steered for the
entrance of St. George Channel, formed betwixt New Ireland and New Britain, tak-
ing care to give a berth to Laughlan Islands, also to the western coast of Bougainville
Island, and the shoals that front it to a considerable distance. The westernmost of
these coral shoals are in lat. 6° 11' S., Ion. 154° 22' E., but others lie to the south, and
also to the northward, contiguous to Winchelsea, or the Bouka Island of the French,
which is large, and its north-east extremity is situated in lat. 4° 58' S., Ion. 154° 40' E.,
by Captain White's observations in the Sherburne, in 1824.
Having cleared St. George Channel, steer a westerly course towards the north coast
of New Guinea, leaving to the westward the Admiralty Isles, and the chain of
isles extending thence to the westward.
If a ship be carried to the westward of the south entrance of St. George Channel by
the current, she might pass round to the southward of New Britain, and proceed
through the strait formed close to its western extremity, generally called Dampier
Passage or Strait ; but this track being little frequented, a good look-out is necessary,
as there may be dangers, not yet discovered,! in the approach to this strait from the
southward.
* The route here described, to the eastward of Cato Reef, Wreck Reef, or other dangers, is frequently pur-
sued ; but Captain Bristow is of opinion, that the best track from Port Jackson is to keep within a moderate
distance of the coast as far as Sandy Cape, and pass to the westward of the above shoals, observing great cau-
tion when passing Frederick Reef and the adjacent dangers ; and from Sandy Cape, to steer for Cape St.
George, or for Cape Deliverance, if bound through Dampier Strait. He was only 13 days from Port Jackson
to the coast of New Hanover, by the latter route.
t The ships in search of La Perouse went through this strait in June, 1793. Captain Bristow, employed in
the southern fishery, passed also through it : he cruized near a month for whales, in May, off the Admiralty
Islands and New Hanover ; and although great numbers of whales were seen, the boat could seldom be lowered
down, on account of a continuance of blowing weather.
EASTERN ROUTE FROM PORT JACKSON TOWARDS CHINA. 755
Whether the route by St. George Channel or that through Dampier Strait be fol- Directions
lowed, you ought to sail within a moderate distance of the north coast of New Guinea, '{^"^^.^^^Z Pitt
in order to avoid the easterly currents and light variable N.W. winds, which may be Passlige, I'd the
expected North of the equator. These nortJi-easterly currents are liable to drift ships mo~'
a great way off into the ocean, rendering it necessary, after getting into Ion. 134° E., to
keep near the coast of New Guinea, when bound into the Pitt Passage in the South-
east Monsoon, or from March to September.
After passing betwixt Point Pigot and the N.W. end of New Guinea, through Dam-
pier Strait, into the Pitt Passage, conform to the directions given in one of the former
sections, for pursuing the route from China outside the Philippine Islands, and through
the Pitt Passage.
When the North-west Monsoon prevails to the southward, and the North-east 'Slon- Northern track-
soon to the northward of the equator, a ship bound to Hindoostan, ouolit not to steer t''™"B'' '"'* .
1 ti ^ /■ ivT d-~i ■ .1 1 11.* . . ^»- Sooloo Sea, in
along the coast ol New Gumea to the westward, as recommended above; but in No- the North-east
vember, December, and January, she ought to proceed to the northward until in about ^r""'"""-
lat. 5°N., where '?i. E. winds may be expected to run with to the westward. The
route to the soutiiward of Mindanao, through Baseelan Strait, and the Sooloo Sea,
round the north ends of Banguey and Balambangan, into the China Sea, then through
Malacca Strait, will in general be more speedy than any other, during the North-east
Monsoon. Directions will be found for this route near the end of that section where
the Molucca and Banda Islands are described, instructions being there given for sail-
ing from Amboina towards Hindoostan.
PASSAGE TO THE EASTWARD OF THE SOLOMON ISLANDS.
DEPARTING FROM PORT JACKSON, or VAN DIEMEN LAND, ships Eastern routes
bound to China, or to Hindoostan, if the southern passage be not adopted, and when j™kson,"o
the North-east Monsoon is prevailing in north latitude, will generally have steadier wards chinaor
T-I" 1
winds, by pm-suing a route more easterly than that described above, through St. George "'""<"'^""-
Channel. There are two routes usually frequented ; one is to the westward of New
Caledonia, New Hebrides, and Santa Cruz, or Egmont Island, leaving to the westward
the great chain called Solomon Islands : tiie other route is to the eastward of New
Caledonia and New Hebrides, leaving tlie Friendly Islands to the eastward, the west-
ernmost group of which is called the Feejee Islands.
To proceed by the westernmost of these routes, a ship ought to steer E. N. Eastward iioute west-
after leaving Port Jackson, to benefit by steady winds off the coast; and having got cai'iJ'joJ.ja*"
into about Ion. 100° E., a northerly course may be steered, taking care to give a
proper berth to the reefs projecting a great way out from the N.\\ . end of New
Caledonia.
As the wind blows sometimes from S. S.W. or S.W., contiguous to the western coast
of New Caledonia, a ship can have no occasion to approach near it, except she be in
want of fresh water; which necessary article may, in a case of necessity, be procured
at Port St. Vincent.
If a ship intend to go into that port, she must steer to fall in with the Great Reef,
well to the southward, and then run ah)ng the edge of it, to the entrance of the port.
NEW CALEDONIA, the southern extremity, in lat. 22°30'S., Ion. 16G°50' E., is Ne« caie-
low land, not visible from the southern part of the Great Reef that surrounds it; for '^°"''-
5 d2
756
EASTERN ROUTE FROM PORT JACKSON TOWARDS CHINA.
Port St.
Vincent.
Directions.
the southernmost extreme of the reef is in lat. 23° S., Ion. 166° 51' E. ; and the Isle of
Pines lies to the eastward, in lat. 22° 42' S., Ion. 167° 34' E.
Port St. Vincent, on the S.W. side of New Caledonia, is in lat. 22° 0' S., Ion.
165° 55:|' E., by mean of 25 sets of lunar observations, taken by Captain Kent, in
H. M. Ship Buffalo, when he discovered it in 1803 ; of this port he gives the following
description.
"This beautiful and extensive harbour is formed by islands, many of them of consi-
derable size, and about 4 miles within tiie coral reef that extends along the whole S.W.
coast of New Caledonia, excepting where it has a few breaks. It fronts the shore at
the distance of from 4 to 8 miles, but stretches much farther from the north and south
extremities of the land, which, in those parts, is not visible when close to the reef.
This great reef consists of a steep wall to seaward, level with the water's edge,
having no soundings with 150 fathoms line, within two ships' lengths of it in most
places."
The passage through which a ship must enter between the S. E. and N.W. points of
the reef, in going into Port St. Vincent, is three-quarters of a mile wide, having 51
fathoms in the centre ; and the passage between the S. E. and N.W. Heads of the
Port, on the Governor King and Colonel Paterson Islands, is a quarter of a mile wide,
with 19 fathoms water in the centre.
From the direction of the land, and being within the southern tropic, the wind must
be generally at S. E., which is upon the beam, sailing in and out of this harbour ;
however, should the wind incline more easteily off the land, there can be no danger
going in, for by pa.ssing within a cable's length of the S. E. point of the reef, and
getting within it, you may anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, well sheltered,
with the water perfectly smooth ; indeed, from the reef to the two islands forming the
entrance of the harbour, a distance of nearly 4 miles, you are as well sheltered as at
Spithead. Within tlie two points of the reef, the cliannel widens to S. Eastward be-
tween the reef and the Governor King Island, having plenty of room to work in the
largest ship as far as the heads of the harbour, if the winds do not over-blow.
Within the heads of the harbour, you may anchor in from 10 fathoms to any de-
creasing depth, secure from all winds and weather. The tide rises between 5 and 6
feet, high water at 85 hours on full and change of moon. Variation 1 1° E.
In the passage between Robbin and Governor King Islands, on the south side of the
Middle Ground, there is plenty of water for any ship ; and S. E. of this passage, there
is a number of islands, forming perhaps many harbours equal to Port St. Vincent.
Between the Colonel Paterson and Round Island there is also a passage to the N.W.,
and a few islands in that direction ; but this passage seems not to have depth suffi-
cient for a large ship. It is to be observed, that all the islands mentioned are within
the coral reef which extends along the S.W. side of New Caledonia ; and there is
probably no safe entrance through it, except that leading to Port St. Vincent.
The water procured on Robbin Island was not very good, l)ut there is lirohahlij
plenty in other places, the circumjacent land being generally very high ; and judging
from the chasms formed in some parts of it, torrents of rain must fall at some seasons
of the year. The trees about the harbour are small, but in the valleys between the
mountains they appeared large, and the canoes are made out of large trees.
The natives often visited the Buflalo's people, bringing with them spears, clubs, fish-
ing-nets, fish, yams, and sugar canes, which they cultivate. The harbour abounds with
fish, and on the reefs and shores great quantities of shell-fish were found. The islands
EASTERN ROUTE FROM PORT JACKSON TOWARDS CHINA. — SOLOMON ISLANDS.
757
are high and rocky, but covered in many parts with fine grass ; on some of them many
human skulls and bones were seen.
New Caledonia is seldom more than 8 or 10 leagues in breadth, but the chain of
mountains which forms the interior extends JN.W. and S. E. about 80 leagues. The
French ships in search of Mons. La Perouse made the N.W. extremity of this large
island in lat. 19° 58' S., Ion. 163° 30' E. of Greenwich, or rather tl)e extremity of a
chain of small islands projecting from it ; but there are other detached small isles and
reefs farther to the northward. One of these reefs is in about lat. 19° S., Ion. 162° 52' E.;
and Moulin Island, in lat. 18° 31' S., Ion. 162° 52' E., is small, low, and covered with
trees, having a reef stretching from it to the westward. Anotlier low woody island, in
lat. 18° 3' S., Ion. 162°51'E., has a reef extending 3 leagues North from it, and this is
the northernmost of the laioum reefs, in the vicinity of the northern extremity of New
Caledonia. Queen Charlotte Foreland, the S. E. part of New Caledonia, is iu lat. s.e. part.
22°15'S., Ion. 167° 13' E.; and Botany Isle is in lat. 22° 27' S., ion. 167° 17' E.
Loyalty Islands form a large range to the eastward of New Caledonia, having a chan-
nel between them and the east coast, but little known.
A ship from Port Jackson, having passed to the westward of New Caledonia, and TosaiUrom
the dangers last mentioned, may steer to N. N. Eastward, until in about Ion. 161° E., ernpaVtof
then northward on this meridian, which will carry her in the tair channel, betwixt
Solomon Islands to the westward, and Santa Cruz Islands to the eastward. Cape
Boscawen, the N.W. extreme of the Island Santa Cruz, is placed in lat. 10°55'S.,
Ion. 165°40'E., but Captain Hogan made it 10 leagues more to the eastward.
esu
part (
New Caledonia
to the south-
ward.
Cape Bos-
cawen.
THE SOLOMON IS LANDS, already mentioned at p. 750, are part of that exten-
sive chain, which, commencing to the northward of the New Hebrides, extends in a
north-westerly direction, towards New Ireland, and thence along the north side of New
Guinea.
Arsacides, called sometimes San Christoval, the South-easternmost of the Solomon
Islands, has, near its eastern extremity, the two small islands of Deliverance, in lat.
10° 51' S., Ion. 162° 27' E. In case of falling to the westward, there are several straits
among these islands through which ships may pass. Indispensable Strait seems to be
a wide and safe passage, the soutli entrance of which is in lat. 10° I5'S., Ion. 161° 15' E.
Pitt Strait, about 3° farther to the N.W,, is rather intricate at the north pari; being
formed in that part, among a group of small islands, which occupies the space between
the large Island Santa Isabel and another to the westward. Bougainville Strait is the
next to the westward, in lat. 7°S., Ion. 156° E. ; and there is a wide strait in Ion.
153° 30' E., formed betwixt the S. E. part of New Ireland to the westward, and Bouka
or Winchelsea Island and other groups to the eastward.
Having rounded the easternmost of Solomon Islands, the best track for a sliij) Ixunul
into the Pitt Passage, or towards the south end of Mindanao, is to pass to tiic north-
ward of all the large Solomon Islands at a moderate distance, then steer to the west-
ward for Winchelsea Island, and round its north end. From lience, slio may steer
West for Cape St. George, and proceed through St. George Channel; atlerwards she
ought to keep w ithin a moderate distance of the north coast of New Guinea to Point
Pigot, and pass into Pitt Passage by Daiiipier Strait, during tlie South-east INIonsoon,
as directed in the preceding part of this section. Or if bound towards tlie soulli end
of Mindanao and Baseelan Strait, when the North-east Monsoon is prevailing in north
latitude, after having got into Ion. 140° to 136° E., and finding the winds become light,
she should stand across the equator into lat. 5° or 6° N., where she will meet with the
Solomon
Islands.
Indispensable
Strait.
Bougainville
Strait.
To sail from
Solomon Is-
lands towards
the Pitt Pas.
sage, or
towards the
south end of
Mindanao.
758
PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON EASTWARD OF NEW CALEDONIA.
Passage from
Solomon
Islands to-
wards China.
skirt of the North-east Monsoon to carry her to the westward, as stated already in the
preceding- part of this section.
Ships bound to China in the early part of the North-east Monsoon, after passing
to the eastward of Solomon Islands, may steer about N. by VV. and N. N. W., in order
to pass through among the Carolina Islands between Ion. 155° and 149° E., where
large channels are formed by the different islands ; but in this track a good look-out
is indispensable, for several undiscovered isles and veeis probably exist. More par-
ticularly, caution is requisite in crossing the Carolinas, because the islands which
form this chain are very little known ; and although they are probably not so numer-
ous as hitherto supposed, their real situations may be very diffierent from that usually
assigned to them.
When clear to the northward of the Carolina Islands, a course may be steered to
pass near the south end of Guam, the southernmost of the Marian Islands, or more to
the northward, through some of the channels at discretion, either on the south side of
Tinian, or northward of Saypan. From hence, a direct course should be pursued, to
pass into the China Sea, by one of the Bashee channels.
Ships bound to China late in the season, having passed the easternmost of the Solo-
mon Islands after January, when the violence of the North-east Monsoon begins to
abate, may steer from thence a direct course to the N.W., in order to pass between
the Island Yap and Matelotas ; or betwixt the latter and the Pellew Islands, as time
and circumstances require. From hence, a course should be followed to give a proper
berth to the N.E. end of Luconia ; and the most convenient channel among the islands,
between it and the south end of Formosa, may be adopted to pass through into the
China Sea, according to the prevailing wind.
To sail from
Port Jackson
towards China,
the Outer Pas-
sage.
Norfolk
Island.
Matthew
Rock.
PASSAGE TO THE EASTWARD OF NEW CALEDONIA.
OUTER PASSAGE, from PORT JACKSON, or VAN DIEMEN LAND, to
China, is more circuitous than the routes described above, but it seems to have fewer
dangers, with steadier winds than experienced westward of New Caledonia and New
Hebrides ; it may therefore be adopted by ships from Port Jackson, or those which
come through Bass Strait, or round Van Diemen Land, early in the season ; for as
westerly currents are generally experienced in crossing the S. E. trade, which some-
times hangs far to the eastward, it is advisable, in a ship that sails indifferently, to give
a wide berth to all the large islands, by keeping considerably to the eastward of them.
To proceed by this route, a ship ought to steer to make Norfolk Island, or to
pass near it to the eastward, there being no danger above a mile from the shore.
Mount Pitt, the highest part of this island, is in lat. 29° 2'S., Ion. 168° 2' E. Varia-
tion 11° E. in 1802. From Norfolk Island, a course may be steered to pass near
Matthew Island, or Rock,* in lat. 22° 24' S., about Ion. 172° 15' E., which may be
seen 8 or 9 leagues. By keeping thus far to the eastward, the islands adjacent to New
Caledonia and the New Hebrides will all be left to the westward, and the Feejee
Islands to the eastward ; but as some unknown isles or dangers may probably exist,
a good look-out is indispensable in these seas, particularly during the night.
Having passed the parallel of Matthew Rock, steer N.by W. to give a berth to the
range of the New Hebrides, by keeping in Ion. 172° to 171° E., as a westerly cur-
* This is called Hunter Island by Captain Fearn, who places it in Ion. 171° 50' E., and lie discovered a
high rock to the westward, in lat. 22° 21' S., distant 14 leagues from the former; this he considered to be
Matthew Rock, which has near it to the northward a flat rock^ that may be seen about 5 leagues.
OUTER PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON. 759
rent is often experienced near those islands. If a ship make Erronan, the easternmost Erronan.
island, which is in lat. 19° 39' S., about Ion. 170° 15' E., and be unable to weather it,
she may pass through the channel betwixt it and Tanna, which is wide and safe.
From hence, a north course is proper till in lat. 13° S., to avoid Aurora Island, and
others which form the northernmost of the ISew Hebrides, said to extend considerably
to the northward of the situation assigned to them in tiie charts. If none of the New
Hebrides have been seen, steer to get a sight of Mitre Island, which is a barren rock, Miire uiand.
that may be seen 7 or 8 leagues, said to be in lat. 11° 49' S., Ion. 170° E., but the
Neptune made it in Ion. 170° 42' E. by chronometers in 1804; and Captain White, of
the Sherburne, in 1824, made it in 1 1° 55' S., Ion. 170° 7' E., by good chronometers.
Tucovia, in lat. 12° Ki'S., Ion. 108° 42' E., bearing true S. 77° W. from Mitre Island, Tucovid.
distant 84 miles, appeared about 3 or 4 miles in extent N.W. and S. E., with a high
peak at its N. E. end, the S.W. extremity low; this island is inhabited. Cherry
Island lies W. N.W. 9 or 10 leagues from Mitre Island, and Barwell Island lies in a
W. S. W. direction from it, 18 or 20 leagues distance. Cherry Island has a rock off
its south end, which makes a near approach from southward dangerous in the night.
Ships in want of water and refreshments may keep farther eastward, and touch at caution.
the Feejee, or Friendly Islands, in order to obtain the necessary supplies. Some re-
freshments may also be procured at the New Hebrides; but great caution is requisite
in landing on any of those islands, most of them being inhabited by an intrepid race
of men, who are easily provoked to hostility, and they have been successful in cutting
off several vessels.*
After passing Mitre Island, a northerly course is proper to cross the equator in Ion. To sail norti.-
168° to 160° E. ; and as strong westerly currents often prevail from its vicinity, until Jh^eqTaTor.
several degrees to the northward, steer to pass through among the Carolinas in about
Ion. 163° E. : but if the equator has been crossed in Ion. 100° to 162° E., the best track
to pass through among those islands seems to be in Ion. 156° to 155° E., which space
is thought to be nearly clear of islands.
When to the northward of the Carolina Islands, a westerly course should be fol-
lowed to pass through the most convenient channel among the Marian or Ladrone
Islands, or to the southward of Guam, as directed above. And from thence, a course
should be pursued for some of the channels formed between Botel Tobago Xima and
the islands North of Luconia.
NASSAU ISLAND, in lat. 11^° S., Ion. 165^° W., said to have been discovered in Nassau island.
March, 1835, by the Nassau Whaler, of New Bedford, is low, affording wood and
water, but there is no appearance of inhabitants.
HYACINTH BANK, in lat. 25° 15' S., Ion. 159° 18' E., was discovered June 8th, iiyacinti.
1835, i)y H.M.S. Hyacinth ; the l)oats sailed on this bank 2^ miles N.N.W., in sound- '**"''•
ings of 40 to 32 fathoms the least water.
To enter into a particular description of the islands in this part of the Pa-
cific Ocean, would be impossible in a work of this kind, but the following are the
islands or dangers which lie near the tracks of ships sailing from Port Jackson to China.
* Several ships, returning in ballast, from Port Jackson towards India, have proceeded to New Zealand with
the view of cutting down pine sjiars, for masts, Sec. ; but great labour and difficulty occurred in getting them
from the forests to the water, exclusive of the risk of the people being cut off by the natives, who have killed
the crews of boats whilst employed on siiore. These ferocious people have also assaulted several ships, and
massacred their crews.
760
ISLANDS IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Sark Island.
Steward
Islands.
Gower Island.
SARK ISLAND, the southernmost of Queen Charlotte Islands, is high, and may be
seen 12 or 13 leagues; its south end is placed in lat. 11°37'S., Ion. 167° 2' E., by
Captain White's observations in 1824.
STEWARD ISLANDS are merely sand-banks covered with trees ; the eastern-
most, about 3 or 4 miles in extent, is the largest of the group, and it is in lat. 8° 28' S.,
Ion. 163° 2' E., by Captain White's observations.
GOWER ISLAND is small and low, and is said to be in lat. 7° 53' S., Ion.
160° 55' E., by the observations of the navigator last mentioned.
A shoal is said to lie 40 miles East of Rotumah, which island is in lat. 12° 30' S.,
Ion. 177° E.
WALPOLE ISLAND, in lat. 22° 39' S., Ion. 169° 16' E., discovered by Captain
Butler, in the ship of that name, in 1794, has since been seen by many ships. Du-
Diirand Reef. RAND Reef is situatcd near it, in lat. 22° 6' S., Ion. 169° 2' E.
Walpole
Island.
NeiisonReef. NEILSON REEF, in lat. 27° S., Ion. 146° 17' W., upon which the Lancaster is
said to have struck, having only 12 feet water in some places.
Volcano
Island.
VOLCANO ISLAND, in lat. 10° 39' S., Ion. 166° 12' E., by observations in the
Cornwallis and Perseus, seems to be placed considerably too far to the N. Westward
in the charts ; and the adjacent large island Santa Cruz appears to partake of the
same error.
Hunter
Islands.
Pleasant
Island.
Howland
Island.
Ascension
Island.
Enderby
Islands,
HUNTER ISLANDS, by the observations of Captain Mortlock, of the ship Young
William, who saw them in 1795, are in lat. 4° 48' S., Ion. 157° 0' E. A high island,
in lat. 0° 48' S., Ion. 170° 49' E., was seen by the Ocean, in 1804.
PLEASANT ISLAND, in lat. 0° 20' S., Ion. 167° 10' E., by Captain Fearn's
observations, who passed near it in 1798, is of considerable size, inhabited by a stout
race of men, who have canoes of moderate dimensions ; it may be seen 6 leagues, and
reefs project from its north and south extremes.
HOWLAND ISLAND is said to be in lat. 0° 43' N., Ion. 176° 47' W.
ASCENSION ISLAND, in lat. 6° 48' N., Ion. 158° 25' E., is said to be about
60 miles in circumference, high land, with a good harbour on the western side,
abounding in fish and turtle, fresh water, yams, bread, fruit, and fowls, but no hogs.
The inhabitants probably about 1,000 in number, were friendly to the vessel from
Sydney, in which Mr. Horton James visited this island in 1833.
ENDERBY ISLANDS, two in number, in lat. 7° 18' N., Ion. 149° 2' E., were
approached close, February 27th, 1826, by the ship Lyra, Captain Renneck, and the
inhabitants came off in canoes with coco-nuts and some flying tish. When these
islands were nearly in a transit line bearing E. S. E., distant from the neaiest about
6 miles, saw coral rocks under the bottom, and had several casts of 7, 8, 10, and
12 fathoms water upon this coral bank.
Two islands, in lat. 6° 34' N., Ion. 142° 44' E., were thought by Captain Renneck
ISLANDS IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 761
to be a new discovery, but they are placed in Admiral Krusenstern's Atlas of the
South Pacific Ocean, under the name of Kama. Kama.
JANE ISLAND, discovered October 11th, 1B27, at 3 p.m., by Captain Magnus Discovery of
Johnson, of the ship Guildford, on his passage from Nesv Soutii Wale.s to China, is in ^'""' '^'^"'^■
lat. 7° 33' N., Ion. 155° 3' E. by lunar observation. This island, one of the Carolina
chain, appears to be a new discovery, and is dangerous to approach in thick weather,
being very low, in extent about half a mile, and several coco-nut trees were discerned.
When the island bore N. E. ^ N. 4 or 5 miles, at 5 p.m., the sea broke high upon a
reef extending 5 miles in a southerly direction from the S. E. point of the island, and
a chain of breakers stretched from the island E. S. Eastward, as far as could be per-
ceived from the mast-head, shewing the danger to be great in an easterly direction
from the island. From the N.VV. point, the l)roken water did not appear to extend
above a mile, and the S.W. side of the island seemed clear of danger. Tiie following-
danger seems to be nearly in the same situation as Jane Island.
DANGEROUS REEF, lately discovered, its N. E. extremity in lat. 7° 36' N., Ion. Reef in Pacific
155° 18' E., from whence it extended in a S.W. direction beyond the perceptible view. ^<^^«"-
It is situated about 14 miles in a W.S.W. direction from the Island Bordelaise, dis-
covered in 1826.
BROWN RANGE and PARRY ISLAND consist of a chain of reefs and low Brown uange,
isles, which from Parry Island, in lat. 11° 21' N., about Ion. 162° 52' E., extend about ^''•
12 leagues in a W. N.W. and N.W. direction to West Danger Island, or the west-
ernmost isle of the chain, from whence the reef stretches 3 or 4 leagues northward,
without affording any passage through the whole of this extent.
FOURTEEN ISLANDS GROUP, in lat. 4° 30' N., Ion. 169° 30' E., seen in the Groupofisies.
American barque Alliance, May 6th, 1831. The inhabitants appeared friendly, and
spoke the Spanish language.
The Ocean saw three of the Carolina Islands, and by lunar observations made Margaret,
MARGARET ISLAND in lat. 8° 52' N., Ion. 166° 15' E., Lvdea Island in lat. ^If^^;,^'^
9° 4' N., Ion. 165° 58' E., and Catherine Island in lat. 9° 14' N., Ion. 166° 2' E. Wands '
The ship Providence, in 1811, made ARRECIFE ISLAND in lat. 9° 36' N., Ion. Arrecife
161° 8' E. by chronometer.
Island.
CORNWALLIS ISLES, in lat. 16° 53' N., Ion. 169° 31' E., are two small isles, comwaiiis
surrounded by a reef, discovered by H.M.S. Cornwallis, December 14th, 1807. ^^'*s-
GASPAR RICO, in lat. 14° 30i' N., Ion. 168° 42' E. by chronometers and lunar Caspar Rico.
observations, are a group of five islands with extensive reefs, seen in 179(5 and in 1807,
by the Cornwallis.
FARNHAM ISLAND, in lat. 11° 46' N., Ion. 169° 18' E., seen by Captain Tender- Famham
wood, of the American brig Bolivar, in 1833, extends about 6 miles N.W. and '*'""''•
E. S. E., may be seen about 5 miles from a ship's deck, and has a reef extending
nearly 10 miles from its western extremity.
VOL. II. 5 E
762
ISLANDS IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Mac Askill
Islands.
King Geoige
Reef.
Onaseuse
Island.
Ellice Group.
MAC ASKILL ISLANDS, discovered October 29th, 1809, by Captain Mac
Askill, of the ship Lady Barlow, on his passage from Port Jackson towards China,
appeared to be two islands covered with trees, extending about 3 leagues S. E. and
N.W., and seemed to be bold to approach on the west side. By good observations,
their centre was found to be in lat. 6° 12' N., Ion. 160° 53' E.
The Lady Barlow passed over the spot assigned to the large islands Hogolew and
Torris in most of the chaits, and also over the assigned places of others of the Caro-
linas, without discerning any signs of land; from which, compared with the observa-
tions of other ships, it appears that the islands which form the Carolina Archipelago
are not so numerous as represented, and that in general their geographical positions
are not well determined.
Although several of the following islands, lately discovered, are out of the route of
ships proceeding from Port Jackson towards China, yet it may be useful to state their
positions, as some of them are in the track of ships which cross the Pacific Ocean from
the west coast of America, or after rounding Cape Born.
KING GEORGE REEF, in lat. 19° 56' S., Ion. 167° 30' W., discovered by Cap-
tain Beveridge, in the ship of that name, in March, 1819, is of an oval form, extend-
ing about 12 miles nearly North and South.
ONASEUSE, or HUNTER ISLAND, in lat. 15° 31' S., Ion. 176° 11' E. by lunar
observations, lying to the N.W. of the Feejee or Fidjee Islands, is high, of consider-
able size, and populous ; it afforded hogs, yams, and tropical fruits, when Captain
Hunter, of the Dona Carmelita, saw it in July, 1823, and had some intercourse with
the natives, who were well armed, of warlike appearance.
THE ELLICE GROUP, consisting of about fourteen low islands and sand keys,
was discovered May 17tii, 1819, by Captain De Peyster, of the ship Rebecca, on his
passage from Valparaiso towards Bengal. By many sets of lunar observations corres-
ponding within 3 miles of the chronometers, he made the central island of the group
in lat. 8° 29' S., Ion. 180° 54' W. : they appeared to be uninhabited, with bushes on
some of them, and the Rebecca was not more than thrice her own length from one of
the islands when first discerned at 3 a.m.
De Peyster
Islands.
Frindsbury
Reef.
THE DE PEYSTER ISLANDS are another group of about seventeen in num-
ber, discovered on the following morning after leaving the above-mentioned group,
and their southern extremity was found to be in lat. 8° 5' S., Ion. 181° 4.3' W. by lunar
observations and chronometers ; these are also small low islands, and seem to be inha-
bited, as a large fire was seen on one of them in the night.
FRINDSBURY REEF, in lat. 5° S., Ion. 159° 19' E., on which the southern
whaler of that name was wrecked in March, 1832, is a dangerous coral reef, with a
heavy surf beating over it. Three men were lost in getting the two boats, which con-
tained 32 survivors, clear of the wreck. Captain Duncan was in one of these boats,
with part of the crew, but was never heard of after separating from the other boat, left
in charge of the chief mate ; this was on the 20th March. After suffering great hard-
ships, the latter boat reached Carteret Harbour, on the 27th of that month, and the
people saved in her lived with the natives till taken up by the Isabella, of London,
May 15th, 1832.
ISLANDS IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 763
REIRSON ISLAND, inlat. 10°6'S., Ion. 160° 55' W., and Humphrey Island, Reirsonand
in lat. 10°30'S., Ion. 161° 2' W., were discovered by the ship Good Hope, in October, "3*;"^
J 8-22, and are both low, abounding with coco-nut trees. In passing close to the former,
a number of inhabitants were seen, and the latter is probably inhabited likewise, it
being to leeward of Reirson Island.
DAVID CLARK ISLAND, in lat. 17° 19' S., Ion. 138° 30' W., was also seen, and David ciark
thus named by the ship Good Hope, in 1822 ; this island appeared about 20 miles in "^ '
circumference, and was low and dangerous ; the more so, as it lies far to windward of
all the known islands which form the group of the Dangerous Archipelago.
NEDERLANDICH ISLAND, in lat. 7° 10' S., Ion. 177° 33^' E., discovered in ^^^^^d^^^'""'"'^''
July, 1825, by Captain Eeg, in the Pollux Dutch sloop of war, appeared to be fully
peopled, and the natives are described to be a fierce and athletic race of men.
ROXBURGH ISLAND, discovered and named by Captain White, of the Med- f°^^p^
way, March 5th, 1824, on his passage from the west coast of America, is high, and
about 20 miles in extent East and West ; it may be seen at a considerable distance. He
made the body of the island in lat. 21° 36' S., Ion. 159° 40' W., and about 100 miles
W. by N. from the Island Mangeea.
KARLSHOF ISLAND, in lat. 15° 27' S., Ion. 145°24|' W., was seen by Lieute- l^'^f'^l^'^^
nant Kotzebue, in 1824, and he discovered, and named the three following islands : — Kotzebue.
Predpriatije Island, in lat. 15° 58i'S., Ion. 140° 2i' W. ; Bellingkausen Is-
land, in lat. 15°48'S., Ion. 154° 30' W. ; Kordakew Island, in lat. 14°32i'S., Ion.
168° 6' W. ; but the latter island had been previously seen by M. Freycinet: this, how-
ever, was not known to Lieut. Kotzebue.
THE SUWARROW ISLANDS, discovered by the Russian ship of this name, xhe^suwarrow
September 27th, 1814, are four uninhabited islands, extending from lat. 13° 6' to '"" '"
13° 15' S., Ion. 163° 23' to 163° 31' W.
LISIANSKY ISLAND, in lat. 26° 2f' N., Ion. 173°42i'W., is low, about a mile LUiansky
long, destitute of fresh water, with a coral reef extending around to the distance of
2 miles.
Krusenstcrn
Rock.
KRUSENSTERN ROCK, in lat. 22° 15' N., Ion. 175° 37' W., appeared to be a
rock under water, as breakers were seen from the ship Neva, in 1804, and shoal water
seemed to extend 2 miles from the breakers, which were only seen in one place, but
the weather did not permit Captain Lisiansky to examine this supposed danger.
THE NIMROD GROUP, in the Southern Pacific Ocean, seen in the ship Nim- ^^^Nm"""*
rod. Captain Henry Eilbech, on her passage from Port Jackson to Rio Janeiro, round
Cape Horn. These islands are placed by him in lat. 56^° S., Ion. 158° 30' W., and
are stated to have been seen at a considerable distance ; but numonms birds and
amphibious animals, with a great quantity of marine vegetables, found in their neigh-
bourhood, sufficiently indicated their existence.
5 E 2
r64
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM AUSTRALIA AND VAN
DIEMEN LAND BY CAPE HORN AND MAGELLAN
STRAIT.
Homeward SHIPS froiii Povt Jaclvsoii 01' Van Diemen Land, bound to Europe in the sum-
cape^Horn. ^ER MONTHS, and peiliaps at all seasons, may expect to make a quicker passage
round Cape Horn tlian by any other route, for the prevalence of westerly winds in
high southern latitudes is favourable for tliat passage. Ca])tain Hunter left Port
Jackson in H. M. Ship Sirius, October 2nd, 1788, stood to the Southward and S. East-
ward until in lat. 50° S., and kept mostly betwixt this parallel and lat. 56° S., in run-
ning to the eastward. In lat, 57° S., Ion. 76° W., they saw many ice islands, Novem-
ber 23rd ; passed Tierra del Fuego, 26th, in sight of the land, and sailed N. Eastward,
constantly among ice islands, until December 21st, when the last piece of ice was seen
in lat. 44° S., Ion. .35° W. Some of them were small, others 2 or 3 miles in circumfer-
ence, and about 300 feet in perpendicular height. At this time, the sea was overspread
with them from South Georgia to lat. 46° S., and they seemed to have been drifted
from that island, or from Sandwich Land,* by southerly winds, and were probably
separated from the land in the spring, or by a storm during the winter. Sailing
among such numbers of ice islands would have been attended with considerable dan-
ger but for the almost uninteirupted daylight at this season in these high latitudes.
After passing Cape Horn, the Sirius had mostly N. Easterly winds for 15 days; she
nevertheless arrived in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, January 1st, 1789, after
a passage of 91 days from Port .lackson.
Lieutenant Ball, in H. M. Ship Supply, sailed from Port Jackson, November 26th,
1791, kept in lat. 50° to 57° S., and passed in sight of Cape Horn, January 6th, 1792 ;
after rounding the Cape and Staten Land southerly winds continued, with which
she steered to the northward ; and although N. E. winds were afterwards experienced,
arrived at the island St. Catherina, on the coast of Brazil, February 1st, after a pas-
sage of only 67 days from Port Jackson. Although this ship was as far South as the
Sirius, in rounding Tierra del Fuego, no ice islands were seen during the passage ;
this difference may be accounted for by the Supply passing it later in the season.
The Minstrel left Port Jackson, July 6th, 1813, steered to pass to the northward of
New Zealand ; but a heavy gale of wind, which suddenly changed from N. J\. E. to
West, drove her very close to the shore, a little southward of Cape Maria.t On the
* Or perhaps from South Shetland, at that time not known to navigators.
f Colombia Reef, seen by the ship of this name in 1828, on the coast of New Zealand, commences about
2 miles N. N. E. from Cape Maria Van Diemen, and extends from thence in a West and W. S.W. direction full
3 miles, having apparently deep water inside, between it and the cape.
Ships intending to touch at the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, may find the following remarks, given by
Mr. H. Driver, useful.
The South Head of the Bay of Islands is known by a conspicuous Rocky Islet, elevated about 150 feet above
the sea, perforated by an archway about 30 or 40 feet, through which the sea breaks. Between this islet and the
High Head there is a rock like an ill-shaped bottle, and outside another, about 30 feet high, of conical form.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE BY CAPE HORN. 765
16th, after the gale moderated, she cleared tliis cape, and steered eastward, gradually
increasing- the latitude to 40°, 50°, and at last to 60°, when she approached Cape Horn ;
the prevailing winds were strong from W. N. W. to W. S. W., sometimes veering to
North, N. E., S. E., and South, but these winds were of short duration. She passed
Cape Horn August 29th, in lat. 57° 46' S., distant 1.30 miles from it, with strong S.W.
winds ; afterwards passed about 120 miles to the eastward of the Falkland Islands,
September 2nd, and made the coast of Brazil, near Rio Janeiro, Septeiuber 16th.
Other ships, pursuing the route from Port Jackson round Cape Horn, have in general
made favourable passages into the Atlantic Ocean ; but as stormy weather and high
seas may be expected at times in high southern latitudes, this route ought not to be
chosen in a leaky or crazy ship ; and those who pursue it ought particularly to keep
a good look-out for ice islands, both to the westward and eastward of Cape Horn.
The ship Yare left Hobart Town June 9th, 18-32, and arrived in the Thames Octo-
ber 15th, by the Cape Horn Passage.
The ship Henry left Hobart Town November 4th, 18.32, and arrived in the Thames
March 1st, 1833; she saw a considerable quantity of ice, but on the whole had a
favourable passage.
The Wave left Hobart Town August 4th, 1832, and did not reach the English Chan-
nel till January 25th, 1833, having remained six dajs at Rio Janeiro, where slie went
to get supplies, and repair the damage sustained from boisterous weather, in lat.
53° S., Ion. 130° W., August 29th, she was surrounded with icebergs, and was daily
among ice till in lat. 60|^° S., Ion. 92^° W. ; September 9th, constant N. N. E. gales
drove her into lat. 61° S., and from Ion. 107° to 74° W., she was kept between the
parallels of 59° and 6H° S., by almost constant strong winds from N. N. W. to
N. N. E. The last iceberg seen was in lat. 59° 22' S., Ion. 76° W., Se])tember 15th ;
for no ice was met with farther eastward in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn.
The Caroline left Hobart Town February 9th, 1834, and a fair wind with favour-
able weather continued seven weeks, nor was any ice seen until round Cape Horn.
She arrived in the English Channel June 8th, and had not considerable delay been
experienced by adverse winds in the proximity of the Falkland Islands, the passage
miglit have been effected from Hobart Town to England in three months.
The Surrey left Port Jackson April 9th, 1830 ; had a southerly gale several days,
with which she passed to the northward of New Zealand ; then had northerly winds
and fine weather for a considerable time. May 29th, in lat. 58i° S., Ion. 118^ 12' W.,
a small piece of ice was seen, but none afterwards. Here the weather became cloudy,
and for several days no observations were got, during which timea current of 30 leagues
to the southward was experienced to tiie westward of Diego Ramirez. After rounding
Cape Horn, had light northerly winds several days, with a N. Easterly current : arrived
August 2nd in the Downs.
The ship John, August 7th, 1831, in lat. 5.3° S., Ion. 1.30° W., had a narrow escape
from an iceberg, at 4 a.m., when sailing witli great rapidity ; a heavy cloud was then
perceived right ahead, through the surrounding haze, which was thought to b(> land.
The chief mate, on the forecastle at this time, called out " keep her away," which was
done instantly, and the ship grazed the S.W. point of an immense iceberg, several hun-
On the North, and about a mile from the South Head lies a rock a little above water, a resort of numerous
birds, and having a white appearance from their excrements. The best anchorage is about 15 miles up from
the Head, and there is no danger unseen. There is a large island in the centre of the bay, witli a passage
on each side. The best watering-place is on the south side, opposite the bay, where the houses of the mission-
aries are built.
7G6
HOMEWARD PASSAGE BY CAPE HORN.
Passage round
Cape Horn to
file westward.
dred feet high, the rebounding swell from which assisted to keep her off, while the
broken ice considerably retarded her progress. At daylight, a great number of ice-
bergs were discovered around, through which she sailed six days, lying to every night,
untilinlon. 118° W.
Icebergs are almost constantly found between Ion. 130° and 1 10° W. during the winter
season, probably drifted from a large extent of undiscovered land to the southward.*
The passage from Port Jackson and Van Diemen Land round Cape Horn is now
frequently used by ships bound to England in the winter season ; and since South
Shetland and other lands have been discovered, and the trade opened on the western
coasts of South America, many ships pass round that cape to the westward in the same
season, without encountering much difficulty. The Southern Whalers, belonging to
Messrs. Enderby, frequently pass round to the westward in winter; for although the
days are short and the nights long, yet in this season the ice is consolidated to the
southward, and ships are not liable to encounter loose ice, if they do not go far South
near the fields. By keeping within a moderate distance of the land, the winds are
sometimes variable, enabling ships to get quicker round to the westward than if they
went far South, where the westerly gales blow more constantly than near the land.
During the early part of the summer, from October to December, many large pieces
of ice may be broken from the solid mass, or from the southern lands, and then drifted
to the northward, in the proximity of Tierra del Fuego : but late in the summer, from
January to March, the accumulation of heat in the ocean and atmosphere may be ex-
pected to dissolve all loose pieces of ice before they ai'e drifted far from the original
mass, thereby leaving the sea clear to the northward near Cape Horn.
One of H. M. Ships lately passing round the cape to the westward, in April and
May, experienced much blowing weather from the westward, with hail storms ; her
rigging being at times frozen.
Captain Weddelk-f relative to the passage to the westward round Cape Horn,
observes as follows : — " In the beginning of November, the winds draw from the north-
ward, and continue to be frequent till about the middle of February, when they shift to
the S.W. quarter : during this period the westerly winds are not lasting, hence the
passage may be easily effected. From about February 20th to the middle of May, the
winds usually blow with violence between S.W. and N.W., and no ship, during this
interval, need expect to make a passage round the cape, unless in excellent condition.
From the middle of May to the end of June, the winds prevail from the eastward with
fine weather ; and during these six weeks a ship may round the cape in sight of Diego
Ramirez. From the beginning of July to the beginning of November, the winds
again prevail between S. W. and N.W., but in August and September are more par-
ticularly tempestuous. In March, August, and September, when violent gales prevail,
if a ship hcqypen to be rounding the cape, it is, by some navigators, considered best to
keep to the southward, in lat. 59° to ()0° S., where the sea is less turbulent, and
the winds more equal. In doing this, care must be taken not to approach too near
soulll sheu"^' '^'^"^^* Orkney Islands, lying between lat. 00° 20' and 61° S., and Ion. 45° to 46° 30' W.
land, and DiRK Gherritz Land, uow Called SouthJ Shetland, between lat. 61° and 63° S.,
Palmer Land.
* Voyage Round the World, by T. B. Wilson, Surgeon, R. N.
t Navigators intending to pass round Cape Horn should possess themselves of Captain Weddell's Voyage
towards the South Pole, published in 1823 ; it will be found a valuable acquisition in these seas.
X Dirk Gherritz was commander of the Good News yacht, one of the five ships from Rotterdam, which
rounded Cape Horn in 1659, and being separated by a storm from his consorts, he saw this southern land ; it
therefore ought to bear his name, as he was the first person known to have discovered it.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE BY CAPE HORN. 767
must be avoided ; it extends in a W. S. Westerly direction from Ion. 54° W. to 63° W.,
having a wide channel between this great chain of islands and Trinity or Palmer Land]
more to the southward.
GRAHAM LAND was discovered in 1832, by Captain Biscoe, of the brig Tula, Graham ujhi
belonging to Messrs. Enderby ; it lies beyond the Antarctic circle, to the S.W. of South isLd^^''''*^''
Shetland. The body or central part of the northern coast, in lat. 69° S.,lon. 68° W., is
very high, coated with snow ; but the lower jiarts where the boats landed were free from
snow and ice, and the black rocky cliffs felt very warm in the rays of the sun. Some
of these cliffs appeared to be about 2,000 feet perpendicular, facing the sea ; and the
height of the interior probably between 5,000 and 6,000 feet, forming a pretty regular
outline, unlike the rugged peaks which distinguish the aspect of South Shetland,
Graham Land extends from S.W. in a N. Easterly direction, apparently terminating
near, or in Trinity, or Palmer Land. Detached from the land here described is an
island, called Adelaide Island, which was closely approached ; it is in lat. 67° S., Ion.
68° VV., of small extent, but elevated several thousand feet above tiie sea, and terminat-
ing in a beautiful conical peak; this island was nearly encased with a covering of con-
solidated ice and snow, intersected from the summit to the base of the island or moun-
tain by deep chasms, by which it would seem that icebergs are formed upon, and then
broken off from this island. No sea elephants or seals were seen here, at Graham
Land, or Enderby Land, nor were any beaches perceived where these animals could
land ; in most places the sea-face was composed of high steep cliffs, or rugged rocks,
destitute of 2;ravel or sand.
&"
ALEXANDER LSLAND, in about lat. 69° 30' S., Ion. 75° W. ; and Peter Alexander and
Island, in about lat. 69° 30' S., Ion. 90° VV., discovered by Captain Bellinghausen, on P'''" i"'""''^-
his exploring voyage, are high, but were not approached nearer than 8 or 10 leagues,
on account of the surrounding ice.
Captain Foster, of H. M. S. Chanticleer, during his experimental voyage in the
southern hemisphere, observed, that in March the winds between S.W. and N.W. in cape Horn
the vicinity of Cape Horn exceeded the aggregate of those from all other quarters in ^^ '"'''■
the ratio of 4 to 1 ; whilst in the summer months, during an equal interval, these winds
exceeded all others in the ratio of 2 to 1 only — proving, independently of all other cir-
cumstances, that the summer months are preferable for proceeding to the westward
round this promontory, when N. Easterly winds may be expected about the jjarallelof
60° S., which probably extend to a high southern latitude during great part of the sum-
mer, as N. E. winds were found to prevail at South Shetland during the months of
January and February, 1829, when the Chanticleer remained at Pendulum Cove, PeiiduSum
Deception Island, lat. 62° 56^' S., Ion. 60° 32' W. '^'""^•
The current early in January, between lat. 56° and 63° S., Ion. 63° to 67° W., usually currents,
sets E. S. E. and S. E. at a mean daily rate of 8 to 12 miles.
The tides run strong between Cape Horn and Staten Island, the flood apparently Tides,
from S. Westward at the rate of 3 miles per hour or upwards at times, 'i'his renders
the navigation into the coves or harbours of Staten Island intricate, except at slack
tide, as the stream sweeps across the mouths of these inlets with great velocity, form-
ing eddies, while variable gusts of wind blow from the rugged higli cliffs by which
they are formed.
Along the northern side of Staten Island the flood comes from eastward, and runs
768
HOMEWARD PASSAGE BY CAPE HORN.
Ilarboiiis
Jlagpllaii
Strait.
A quick pas-
sage from
Chili to
Bengal.
(southward through the Strait of Le Maire, varying in velocity from 5 to 7 or 8 miles
per hour.
The haibours of Staten Island, with one exception, are on its northern side ; they
are named St. John Harbour, Port Cook, New Year Harbour, Basil Hall Harbour,
Port Parry, Port Hoppner, and Port Vancouver.
MAGELLAN, or MAGALHAENS STRAIT, having usually been considered a
tedious and precarious navigation to adopt in proceeding westward, particularly during
the winter months, the outer passage round Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn has gene-
rally been preferred ; yet it appears that the passage through this strait, even in these
months, may sometimes be pursued with advantage. H. M. ketch Basilisk, Lieutenant
M'Donald, in company with H. M. Frigate North Star, sailed from Berkley Sound,
Falkland Islands, July 28th, 1835, and having separated in thick rainy weather during
that night, the Basilisk steered for Magalhaens Strait, and on August 1st passed Cape
Virgins, into the entrance of the strait. On the morning of August 10th, she passed
Cape Pillar, and entered the Pacific Ocean, being just nine days from passing Cape
Virgins, including one day at anchor in Port Famine. Two-thirds of the distance was
performed against strong S.W. winds from Cape Virgins to Cape Quod, and the other
third with a fair wind from East, with fine weather. Lieutenant M'Donald observes
as follows : " Had we been exposed to floating ice outside the heavy sea and strong
S.W. winds, we might have been obliged to stand southward, to perhaps lat. 62° S.,
and would, on the wind coming fair, be about 800 miles from Cape Pillar; whereas, in the
present instance, this distance was gained. The North Star arrived at Valparaiso August
25th, or six days later than the Basilisk, having experienced strong S.W. gales from
the 1st to the 10th of August, in lat. 55° to 59° S., with the thermometer from 30° to
14°, the cold being so intense, that one man died while looking out, and two were with
difliculty re-animated. During the same period, the Basilisk in the strait experienced
(similar strong S.W. winds, but the water was comparatively smooth, and the people
had proper rest in bed, while the vessel usually anchored in the night ; the thermo-
meter ranging from 40° to 29°, the medium 35°. From the Falkland Islands, the
North Star was 28 days, and the Basilisk 22, to Valparaiso; shewing, in this instance,
that the strait w^as the preferable route."
Lieutenant M'Donald observes, that the charts constructed from the survey of Cap-
tain King, and his directions for Magellan Strait, are such excellent guides for this
navigation, that no accident is likely to happen, unless from negligence.
Some ships have made a speedy passage from South America across the Pacific
Ocean to India: Captain Peircy sailed from Valparaiso in January, 1814, and after
crossing that ocean, entered the China Sea by the Bashee Passage, then proceeded
through Malacca Strait, and arrived in Bengal River in two months and twenty-six
days from Valparaiso.
The ships Good Hope, Stanmore, and Sherburne, all sailed from Bengal River be-
tween the 15th of May and the 22nd of June, 1823, and their passages from thence to
Valparaiso were respectively 135 days, 114 days, and 115 days, having all three pro-
ceeded direct to the southward from Bengal Bay till in lat. 48° to 53° S., in which
parallels they mostly ran down their easting, and experienced very stormy weather.
The Stanmore, on a former voyage, was 100 days by the same route, and at another
time 135 days by a more northerly track through Bass Strait, and to the northward of
New Zealand, on which passage she had very severe weather near the south coast of
SOUTHERN HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON. 769
Australia, where she lost several of her sails, and her crew suffered greatly by fatigue.
Captain G. White, of the Sherburne, recommends the southern route as far preferable
to that by the south coast of Australia and Bass Strait.
The Sherburne, on February 27th, l»-24, sailed from Copiapo for Calcutta, and pro-
ceeded through the South Pacific Ocean, between the Manpiets and Society Islands,
saw the easternmost of the Navigator Islands, and had frequent light variable winds,
where a S. E. trade was expected. She went tlirough St. George Channel, afterwards
along the north coast of New Guinea, through the Gillolo and Ombay Passages, and
on the 15th June, passed the south point of Sandalwood Island into the Indian Ocean.
PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON THROUGH BASS
STRAIT, OR ROUND VAN DIEMEN LAND.
SHIPS bound from PORT JACKSON to Europe or to Hindoostan may adopt southern Pas-
the southern passage, through Bass Strait, or round Van Diemen Land, if they depart j^^^son" ^'"'
between the beginning of September and the end of March. In the months of January,
February, and March, S. Easterly wintis frequently prevail about Van Diemen Land,
and near the south coast of Australia, enabling ships to make considerable [)rogress to
the westward : they ought, however, to preserve a considemble distance from the south
coast, in order to benefit by every change of wind in tlieir favour, and to avoid being
driven too near the land by southerly or south-westerly gales, which are likely to
happen at times.*
The strong westerly gales which prevail here in winter render the southern passage
difhcult; yet it has sometimes been performed, even in that season, by ships which
were in good condition and sailed well.
The ships Guildford and Batavia left Port Jackson early in June, 1817, intending
to proceed by the Southern Passage along the south coast of Australia; but the for-
mer ship was unable to beat round, and returned to Port Jackson, to refit her damaged
rigging and sails. The Batavia effected her passage, but suffered much from the
severity of the weather, which rendered an extensive repair necessary on her arrival
at Calcutta.
Captain P. P. King, R. N., after having completed his surveys of the Australian
coasts, left Port Jackson, September 25th, 1822, in the surveying brig Bathurst, with
* Captain Midtlleton, however, is of opinion that the westerly winds are not so strong or so constant near
the south coast of Australia as they have been experienced in the winter months at a <;reat distance from the
land. AV'hile he lay in King George Sound, a colonial brig arrived in .Fune from Hobart Town in 19 days ;
in which month also an open whale boat, cmplnyed sealing along the coast, arrived from tlie eastward ; and
in July, a small vessel, about 20 or 30 tons burthen, arrived in 39 days from Launccston, which was thought
to have touched at Kangaroo Island, and thereby prolonged her passage. Captain Middleton sailed from
King George Sound, August 12th, in the ship James Pattison, rounded CapeLeeuwin, and reached Swan River
a week after his departure from the former place.
VOL. II. 5 F
770
SOUTHERN HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM PORT JACKSON.
Macquaiie
Island.
Campbell
Island.
the intention of proceeding northward through Torres Strait ; but a hard gale set in
from the nortliward, which induced him to bear away, in order to proceed round Van
Diemen Land to the westward if the wind permitted ; or, otherwise, by doubling the
south end of New Zealand, to make the eastern passage round Cape Horn.
Having reached the S. E. end of Van Diemen Land October 6th, with a brisk N. E.
wind, he proceeded along its southern coast, and had a succession of heavy westerly
gales, with much damp weather, till November 8th, when he made Bald Island, stood
into King George Sound, and anchored off the sandy bay within Seal Island, to re-
pair the rigging and get a supply of wood and water. The vessel was afterwards
moved to a better sheltered anchorage off the Watering Bay, and on December 1st,
after two attempts, she succeeded in getting out of the sound into the open sea, and
reached Simons Bay, Cape of Good Hope, January 14th, without having encountered
a gale of wind after leaving King George Sound.
The ship Alexander, Captain Norman, left Port Jackson in November or Decem-
ber, bound to Bombay, and got easily to the westward by the southern passage.
The ship Lady Barlow, Captain M'Askill, came through Bass Strait in January,
when bound from Port Jackson to London, 1806, and proceeded to the westward with
variable winds, frequently at East and S. E. In lat. 2B° S., they got to the S. E. trade
wind, and Captain M'Askill thinks the passage from Port Jackson to Bengal would
have been performed in two months, had he been bound there.
A Whaler proceeded some time since thi"ough Bass Strait, and beat to the west-
ward in Jnne, but she experienced much blowing weather. Captain Lamb, in the
Baring, from Port Jackson, bound to Bengal, passed to the westward through Bass
Strait in two days, early in November, 1815 ; and with the winds he previously ex-
perienced, there would have been no difficulty in getting to the westward through the
strait and round Cape Leeuwin in August. The Guildford left Port Jackson March
30th, 1812, passed round Van Diemen Land, went as far as lat. 48° S., where with
N. E., East, and S. £. winds, she speedily got to the westward, entered into the
South-east trade in lat. 26^° S., and arrived May 31st in the River Hoogly, after a
passage of two months from Port Jackson.
Ships which pass far South of Van Diemen Land, or New Zealand, ought to keep
a good look-out for undiscovered islands or dangers which may exist in that part of
the ocean. Those already known are, Macquarie Island, in lat. 54° 42' S., Ion.
159° 45' E., which is of considerable extent, lying North and South, having, about 7 or 8
leagues N. N. Eastward of its north extreme, some rocky islets called the Judge and
Judge's Clerk. About the same distance southward of its south extreme lie other
rocks, called the Bishop and Clerk, in about lat. 55° 15' S. Campbell Island, in lat.
52° 32' S., Ion. 169° 30' E., is small, and was discovered by Captain Walker, employed
in the seal fishery by Mr. Campbell, then residing at Port Jackson ; Macquarie Island
was also discovered by the same navigator.
Lord Auck-
land Islands.
LORD AUCKLAND ISLANDS, discovered by Captain Bristow, in the Sarah,
in 1806, extend North and South about 6 leagues, their centre being in about lat.
50° 41' S., and the north point of Enderby Island in lat. 50° 30' S., Ion. 166° 25' E.*
The large island has a harbour on the east side, called Sarah's Bosom, which is formed
and secured from the sea by Green Island, and some reefs at the entrance bounding
* M. D'Urville places these islands in Ion. 166" 15' E. of Greenwich.
Hermes Reef.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA BY THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 77 I
it on the outside. Several islets or rocks lie contiguous to tiie large island, of which
Adam Isle is at its southern extremity, and Bristow Rock a few miles northward of its
N. E. point. The Snares, in lat. 48° 10' S., are two small isles, nearly on the meridian snares.
of the Lord Auckland Islands, about 20 leagues to the S. S. VV. of the soutiiern extremity
of New Zealand, and there are other islands and dangers nearer to the latter. Farther
to the eastward is Antipodes Island, in lat. 49° 35' S., Ion. 179° .30' E.; it is small.
Bounty Islands lie in lat. 47° 32' S., Ion. 179° 2' E. ; and in lat. 44° 30' S., Ion.
184° 33^ E., a small group of islands was discovered by H. M. Ship Cornwallis, May
16th, 1807, thought to lie contiguous to Chatham Island.
THE PEARL AND HERMES REEF, in lat. 27° 46' N., about Ion. 176° W., Peariand
is said to be a great reef, not previously known, until the Pearl and Hermes w hale
ships were wrecked on it. A great bank of soundings is said to have been discovered
by a southern whaler, in lat. 30° 30' N., Ion. 177° 30' E.
The following islands and dangers in the Pacific Ocean were seen by American navi-
gators. In 1830-1, Captain Meek, of the schooner Chinchilla, fell in with small islands
in the following situations:— lat. 18° S., Ion. 161° 45' W.; lat. 6°41'S.,lon. 106° lO'W. ;
lat. 8° 40' S., Ion. 159° 50' W. ; lat. 9° 57' S., Ion. 148° 30' W. ; lat. 5° 30' N., Ion.
159° 20' W.; lat. 13° 5' N., Ion. 168° 21' W. Also an island, in lat. 4° 48' S., Ion.
1 78° 40^ W., about 15 or 20 leagues in circumference, having on the N.W. side an opening
into a large lagoon, where a small vessel may enter. An island, in lat. 3° 30' S., Ion.
172° 50' E., affording plenty of firewood and coco-nuts, but no water except in the
rainy season on the N.W. part of the island. There is an entrance to a lagoon and
good landing at the left hand end of the beach. An island, in lat. 0° 25' N., Ion. 170°
W., has a good harbour, with regular depths from 10 to 4 fathoms, over a bottom of
sand and coral, the entrance to which is three-quarters of a mile wide between two
reefs. Good fresh water of any quantity may be got by sinking one or two casks at
the head of the beach, a little above high- water mark. Firewood, coco-nuts, and fish,
may also be obtained.
Captain David, in command of the American barque Nelson, fell in with a sand-
bank in lat. 19° 21' S., Ion. 151° 2' E., extending S. E. and N.W. about 4 or 5 leagues,
and fronted on the east side by a reef of rocks about 13 feet above low water.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA BY THE CAPE
OF GOOD HOPE.
FROM INDIA, ROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, TO ST. HELENA.
SHIPS from CHINA, which pass out into the Indian Ocean by any of the straits To sail from
East of Java, or by the Strait of Sunda, ought to endeavour to get speedily into the slraii's'thrTugh
strength of the South-east Trade, in order to run to the westward with steady winds, tii^somh.east
In lat. 14° or 15° S., the trade winds will usuallv be found steady, increasing in
5 F 2
772 HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA.
streno^th as they proceed south-westward, or until in lat. 18° or 20° S. : here it often
blows with more force than in a lower latitude, but in March and April the trade
wind is liable to obstructions, and sometimes fails about the southern tropic, in these
months.
In Volume First of this work, it has been observed, that in the neighbourhood of
Storms. ti,e Islands of Mauritius and Bourbon, storms may happen from NovemI)er to May,
but hurricanes are more likely to be experienced in March or April. These hur-
ricanes blow with irresistible fury near the islands of Roderigue, Mauritius, and
Bourbon; generally with the greatest violence at the last-named island, and between
it and the coast of Madagascar. Experience has shewn that these hurricanes some-
times extend from the southern tropic to lat. 8° or 9° S., and from the coast of Mada-
gascar to about Ion. 90° E., or even to Ion. 100° E., but they are more generally met
with between lat. 13° and 24° S., and within 5° or G° of the islands mentioned above.
Nevertheless, storms have at times been encountered far eastward, to the southward of
Java and Sandalwood Island, when the Westerly Monsoon blows in those seas.
January 8th, 1812, the Abercromby, a new ship of 1,200 tons, belonging to Bombay,
when to the southward of Sandalwood Island, iu lat. 14° S., Ion. 115° E., was dis-
masted, and nearly ibundered, in a tempest which came on at North, then veered to
E. S. E. and South, and suddenly round to N.W.
January 3rd, 1827, at noon, in lat. 13|^°S., Ion. 100° E., the Company's ship Mac-
queen, homeward bound from China, after observing the barometer fall considerably,
experienced a gale from the northward with a high sea ; the wind soon veered to South
and West, from which quarters it blew with great fury, laying the ship's lee gunwale
under water. Two of the boats and the hencoops were washed away, the quarter galleries
stove in, and partly washed away, with the hammock nettings. The jib-boom, dol-
phin-striker, fore-topmast, topsail yard, and maintop-gallant-mast, were broken, and
the ship appeared like a wreck ; at 6 p.m. the barometer began to rise, and at mid-
night the tempest abated. «
A proportional abatement of the violence of these hurricanes is, however, usually
found, according as the distance is increased eastward of the Islands Roderigue, Mau-
ritius, and Bourbon ; for ships near these islands have frequently suffered by tempests,
when others, farther East at the same time, have experienced no stormy weather. It
is therefore advisable for ships homewaid bound to keep well to the eastward in
crossing the South-east Trade, and to round the islands at a great distance, when it
can be done with propriety; more particularly, late in February, March, and April,
when hurricanes are very likely to happen.
These hurricanes generally commence from the northward, and after blowing vio-
lently some time, they shift in an instant to the opposite quarter, and blow with equal
fury, producing a very high and turbulent sea. Navigators should, therefore, be pre-
pared to encounter stormy weather, when crossing the South-east Trade. The gun-
deck ports, hawse holes, &c., ought to be strongly barricaded before night, when there
is the least appearance of a change of weather, and if the wind veer northward and
threaten to blow, a ship ought to be brought speedily under low snug sail ; for there
would be great danger of foundering, were she to be taken a-back by one of those
sudden gusts, with square sails set, particularly if any of her gun-deck ports should
burst open.*
* The unfortunate loss of H. M. S. Blenheim and Java and seven of the Company's ships, in the short period
of two years, are melancholy proofs of the necessity of caution in navigating this part of the Indian Ocean.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA. 773
SHIPS from MALACCA STRAIT or BENGAL, bound to the Cape of Good From Bengal
Hope, may cross the equator in about Ion. 87° to 90° E. ; those which come out of strai^'^ttrougii
Malacca Strait ought to steer a considerable distance W. S.W. before they haul to the t';e south-east
southward, in order to avoid bafflin;^ light winds, which generally prevail near tlie ^""^*"
islands that front the west coast of Sumatra. If light winds are experienced about the
equator, every effort should be made to reach the South-east Trade, by standing- on
the tack that will give most southing ; and having got the steady trade wind, a course
ought to be pursued to pass well to the eastward of Roderigue, as before recommended,
according to the season of the year.
SHIPS from MADRAS and CEYLON, and those from the Malabar coast, which From Madras.
do not adopt the western route by the Mozambique Channel, generally proceed by M'a?aki'r'''c'ili'^
the eastern route, or Outer Passage. But the Island Ceylon, from whence these "»''0"g'> '^e
ships often take a departure, being considerably to leeward in the North-east Mon- Trade!^^
soon, they are consequently unable to cross the equator so far to the eastward aw ships
from Bengal, and are sometimes carried near Roderigue by the Soutli-east Trade.
Those from the Malabar Coast should steer for the south-west part of Ceylon, and
along that island to Dondre Head ; from thence, they should stand off' to the soutl)-
eastward with the North-east Monsoon, keeping a little from the wind, to make good
way through the water; and they ought to cross the equator to the eastward of Ion.
84° or 85° £., if practicable, in order to give a proper berth to Roderigue and the adja-
cent islands.
From April to November, when a storm seldom happens, these islands may be
rounded at any convenient distance from 30 to 50 leagues; but in the other season, it
seems prudent, when practicable, to pass them at a greater distance, viz. about 70, 80,
or 85 leagues.
From whatever part of India ships have come, after getting to the southward of the From the
islands of Mauritius and Bourbon, a course should be steered to give a berth of 30 or Traie t^,*[iie
25 leagues at least to the south end of Madagascar ; but it seems advisable to pass it co«stoi Africa
at a greater distance than 25 leagues, if the weather is any way unsettled. g'°"' ■^'*^°*
Having passed the southern part of Madagascar in about lat. 27° S., a trne W.S.
West course, or about West and W. ^ N. by compass, will carry a ship directly towards
the land about Algoa Bay. It is prudent to approacli the coast hereabout, to prevent
being driven oft" to the southward, out of the stream of the current : and when the
winds are contrary, it is advisable to get near the land about Natal, or between it and
Algoa Bay, without loss of time, in order to benefit by the strong south-westerly cur-
rent that generally sets along the coast to Cape Agulhas ; but in passing Cape Padron
and Bird Islands in the night, it is prudent to keep at least 7 or 8 leagues oft' the coast,
to give a berth to the Doddington Rock.
SHIPS bound from BOMBAY or the MALABAR COAST to Europe, \n former Toreturnfrom
times, frequently adopted the Midulk Passaok, formed by the Chagos Archipelago MTdKas-""*
to the eastward, and the Seychelle Islands and those of the .Madagascar Archipelago to sage.
the westward. It has been stated in Volume First, that the London proceeded by
this route in 1790; but as December and .January appear to be the only two months
favourable for it, when the North-west Monsoon often prevails from the ecjuator to the
Madagascar Archipelago, and as a ship in these months may be liable to encounter a
storm near the islands or shoals, the Outer Passfi<>e ought always to be preferred,
where there is plenty of sea-room, and less risk from stormy weather.
774
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA.
To return from
tlie Red Sea,
the Gulf of
Persia, or from
Kombay, by
tlie Mozam-
bique Channel.
Directions for
the Mozam-
bique Channel.
From the
Mozambique
Channel, along
the bank of
Cape Agulhas.
SHIPS bound from the RED SEA, or GULF OF PERSIA, towards the Cape
of Good Hope, m the sti-ength of the Northerly Monsoon, should proceed through the
Inner Passage, or Mozambique Channel. Ships from Bombay and the northern
parts of the Malabar Coast, may also adopt this passage during the strength of the mon-
soon, in December and January, when northerly winds may be expected to carry them
well into, or nearly through the Mozambique Channel. This route ought not, how-
ever, to be chosen either too early or too late in the season, although it is more direct
from Bombay than any other, because southerly winds prevail greatly in the Mozam-
bique Channel, in October and November, and after February ; and even in this
month, southerly winds are often experienced there. A strong current, which generally
sets along the coast of Africa to the southward, has enabled some ships to work through
this channel in March and April, but it ought not to be attempted so late in the season,
for great delay and uncertainty will be occasioned thereby ; and as storms are some-
times experienced about the southern part of the Mozambique Channel, even in
January and February, many navigators gave the preference to the Outer Passage,
eastward of Roderigue, and all the other islands in the western part of the Indian
Ocean, to which the preceding directions are applicable.
A ship departing from Bombay in November or December, intending to proceed by
the Inner Passage, should steer to fall in with the island Comoro, giving a proper
berth to the Seychelle Islands, and to those that form the north-western part of the
Madagascar Archipelago. She may pass to the westward of Comoro, or through any
of the channels between the Comoro Islands, as circumstances require. From hence,
a direct course through the middle of the Mozambique Channel may be adopted, with
a steady northerly wind ; but when it is light, or southerly, she ought to keep within
a reasonable distance of the African coast, where a strong current will be found setting
to the southward in her favour : and it may be prudent to pass to the westward of
John de Nova, the Europa Rocks, and Bassas de India, whether the wind be from
northward or southward. The current generally runs strong round Cape Corrientes,
and to benefit by it to the full extent, it is advisable to pass within sight of this cape,
if the weather be favourable. Afterwards a moderate distance of 4 to 8 or 10 leagues
may be preserved from the coast of Natal, unless the wind begin to blow from the
S. E. with a rising sea ; in this case, it will be proper to haul off to a greater distance
from the land.
Whether the route through the Mozambique Channel, or any of those to the east-
ward of Madagascar, have been adopted, it will be advisable to approach within a
moderate distance of the projecting part of the coast about Algoa Bay, if it has not
previously been seen, farther to the northward ; and afterwards it will be proper to
keep near, or upon the edge of the bank of soundings, to benefit by the current.
But if a ship make the coast 12 or 14 leagues to the eastward of Cape Recife, in
hazy weather, or if working to the westward in the night, great caution will be neces-
sary to give a proper berth to the Doddington Rock, which has deep water near it, and
lies 6 or 7 miles outside the Bird Islands, or about 4 leagues distant from the nearest
land, and about 5 leagues south-westward of Cape Padron.
A description of the bank of Agulhas, the prevailing currents, also of winds and
weather in its vicinity, will be found in Volume Firstof this work ; but brief directions
may here be useful for ships proceeding to the westward.
In February, March, and the early part of April, when S. E. winds prevail, the best
track to preserve the strength of the current, after getting near the land about Algoa
Bay, is to keep close along the outer edge of soundings until in about Ion. 24° or 23^° E.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA. 775
Here, the direction of the stream begins to change from W. S.W, to S.W., and soon
after to S. S.W. i W., for which a proper allowance should be made, by steering more
towards the land, and keeping in deep soundings upon the edge of the bank.
In the winter months, when North-westerly and westerly gales are frequent, it is
advisable to keep in with the coast, which partly shelters ships from the violence of
these gales ; for although the westerly current is strongest at the outer verge of the
bank, ships which keep far out are liable to encounter very high seas, and be driven off
a great way to southward by N.W. or northerly gales. From this cause, several ships
have been greatly retarded in regaining their position upon or near the verge of the bank,
whilst others, by keeping in with the coast, had smooth water at the same time, and
got round the Cape five or six days sooner than the former, who parted from them off
Algoa Bay.
At all times of the year, when the winds incline to blow strong between N. E. and
West, it is advisable to borrow upon the bank, towards the coast, or at least to guard
against being driven far to southward, where a contrary or eddy current often sets
eastward. It is not thought dangerous to approach the coast of Africa, because the
wind is seldom or ever known to blow with great violence directly on the shore, so
that a ship may always clear it on one tack or the other. The coast is steep in most
places, with soundings of 30 or 40 fathoms within a few miles of the shore, deepening
gradually to 150 or 180 fathoms near the verge of the bank. With Cape Agiilhas
bearing West, distant 7 leagues, the depths are 24 or 25 fathoms ; and from 24 to 30
fathoms irregular soundings, grey sand and shells, are got when it bears North, about
5 miles distant. When abreast of False Bay and Cape of Good Hope, the bank of
soundings does not extend far out from the land ; for here, the depths are 55, 65, and
70 fathoms, within a few miles of the shore.
THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE is frequently the boundary of very opposite Directions for
kinds of weather; for although to the eastward of it the winds and weather may often ^^""''oi^Good
be found unsettled and threatening, yet no sooner has a ship got round to the westward Hope.
of this promontory, than the weather generally becomes settled, with a strong and
steady wind from southward.
When abreast of Cape Agiilhas with a brisk S.W. or S. S.W^ wind, a ship ought to
keep well out from the coast, that she may be enabled to pass the Cape of Good Hope
at a proper distance without tacking, and this is particularly necessary in the night.
In Volume First of this work, under tlie section marked "South Coast of Africa,
from Cape Agulhas to Algoa Bay," the unfortunate loss of the Arniston has been
mentioned, which was occasioned by her bearing away too soon, in order to round the
Cape of Good Hope ; whereas she got intoStruys Bay, on the east side of Cape Agul-
has. To guard against such a fatal mistake, if the longitude is not correctly known,
the lead ought not to be neglected, and this, in thick weather, will always point out whe-
ther or not you are sufficiently advanced to the westward, to bear away with .safety
round the cape: for you ought not to bear away until after losing soundings on the
western verge of the Cape Bank ; and if soundings are obtained after edging away to
the north-westward, you ought inmiediately to haul off from the land.
HAVING rounded the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, ships generally steer a direct uemark, on
course about N.N.W. to N.N.W. \ W. for St. Helena ; but it seems advisable to steer ^'^X"**
about N.W. by N. until a considerable distance is gained from the western coast of twixt tiie capc
Africa, because you are liable to encounter N.W. and W.N.W. squalls at times, parti-
776
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM INDIA.
Sailing: direc-
tions.
cularly when near the coast. These N.W. squalls do not often happen, but they have
sometimes been experienced in both seasons.
April 2Gth, 1790, we rounded the Cape, and steered N.N.W. ^ W. with a steady
strong trade w ind, which continued until we anchored, May 5th, at St. Helena.
April 26th, 1799, we rounded the Cape in the Anna, being the same day of the
month as mentioned above, and steered IN.N.W. ^ W., with a steady wind from the
southward, which carried us to lat. .30° S. Here the wind became light and variable,
then veered to northward, with cloudy unsettled weather and some rain ; and in a
sudden gust from northward in the night, we lost our fore-topmast, with four men who
were furling the top-gallant-sail. These winds continued adverse during two days;
the southerly wind then returned, which carried us, May 8th, to St. Helena.
August 14th, 1801, we rounded the Cape in the same ship, steered IS. N.W. i W.,
with a strong S.S.E. gale, which continued 30 hours, and carried us to lat. 31^° S. ;
the wind then became light, shifted to N.W. and N., with squalls, cloudy weather, and
rain. After 3^ days of adverse winds, the southerly trade prevailed, with which we
anchored 26th at St. Helena.
When round the Cape, and having got a moderate distance from the coast, by steer-
ing about N.W. by N., a direct course about N.N.W. ^ W., or N.N.W., will be fair for
St. Helena.
If the wind blow strong and veer to E.S. Eastward, an allowance for a leeward cur-
rent ought to be made, particularly if the weather become cloudy,* and the longitude
be not correctly ascertained ; for in such case it will be prudent to get nearly in the
parallel of the island when several leagues eastward of its meridian. But if the longi-
tude is ve?-!/ exaclhj ascertained by chronometers and observations, steer direct to make
the island of St. Helena bearing about N.W. or N.W. by W., the variation! here being
n^° W. in 1816 ; then conform to the instructions in Volume First of this work, where
a particular description is given of that island, and of the road. It may, however, be
useful to point out the positions of the two following dangers, as ascertained by Mr.
George Thorns, of H. M.S. Northumberland, in his survey of the bank of soundings
around the island in 181.5.
Barn Ledge, lying rather more than half or three-quarters of a mile to the S. E. of
Barn Point, is about 1^ cable's length in circuit, having generally a heavy ground swell
upon it, with depths of 12,9, 8, and 6 fathoms, to 25,21, and 20 feet, pointed rocks, on
the shoalest parts, as far as could be judged by the lead. When upon it, Barn Point
bore N.W.^ N., distant about three-quarters of a mile ; Turk's Cap in one with Turk's
Cap Battery W. | S. to W. f S., distant three-quarters of a mile. The Turk's Cap is
a remarkable hill, about half-way between Barn Point and Prosperous Bay. Large
ships coming from the south-eastward should keep George Island open with Saddle
Point, which is If miles north of it, until Sugar- Loaf Point is open with Barn Point,
which will carry them clear outside of Barn Ledge; between it and the shore there
are 24 and 20 fathoms in a channel rather more than a quarter of a mile wide, and
close to the ledge on the outside there are 32 and 34 fathoms.
si>eiTy Ledge. Sperry Ledge, at the south point of the island, distant from it somewhat more than
a mile, and about a mile South from Sperry Rock, is a shoal of rocks, about 2 cables'
* Good chronometers are of great utility in running for St. Helena ; I have seen the weather continue so
cloudy during the i\ hole of the run from the Cape to this island^ that no lunar observations could be obtained ;
and the same was experienced during the whole of a passage from St. Helena to England ; but this was
remarked as very extraordinary, and probably seldom occurs.
t The variation of St. Helena, in 1724, was 6° 33' W.
St. Helena.
Uaiii Ledge.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM ST. HELENA. 777
lengths in circuit, with depths of 16, 12, and 10 fathoms, tor 24 and 18 feet, pointed
rocks, on the shoalest parts, and having often upon it a heavy ground swell. When
upon it, Speny Rock bore N. by E. ^ E. by compass, the North Black Rock N. by
E. ^ E. nearly touching Sperry Rock, S.W. point of the island about IN.N.W., Long
Range Point, E. by N. f N., which lies to the East of Sandy Bay. To avoid this
danger, in sailing along the S.E. side of the island to the westward, keep Shore Rock
open with Long Range Point till the northernmost of tlie Black Rocks opens to the
westward of Sperry Rock, and then you may haul up for the S.W. point of the island.
About a mile W. by N. of Sperry Ledge there is a patch of 10 fathoms, rocky bottom ;
between Sperry Rock and the Ledge there are 24, 20, and 35 fathoms water, and the
bank of soundings extends 2 miles outside the Ledge, in a S. and S.S.W. direction,
with 50 and 58 fathoms, fine sand, on its outer verge.
FROM ST. HELENA TO ASCENSION, AND THENCE TOWARDS THE BRITISH CHANNEL,
WITH A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE AZORES.
FROM ST. HELENA, homeward bound, some navigators prefercrossing the equator Remarks for
far westward, with the view of having steady winds, and avoiding a space of variable s*!!^ Hei'e'iia "^
airs and calms, which they imagine to prevail betwixt the limits of the North-east and across the
South-east Trade, farther to the eastward. This opinion seems not supported by expe- ''i"*''"'
rience, for some ships, when far to the westward, have been detained several days by
calms, thick, foggy, wet weather, and a turbulent swell ; when others that crossed the
equator in Ion. 19° or 20° W. had dry weather and brisker winds, and this has even
happened to several ships which passed in sight of the Cape Verde Islands. It is, how-
ever, prudent not to cross the equator far eastward, to avoid light winds and calms,
which often prevail in the vicinity of the coast of Guinea.
The prevailing winds about the equator have been exhibited in a tabular form, in
Volume First of this work, where the routes of homeward-bound ships will be found,
with subsequent directions for ships passing the equator when bound outward : but
though those directions may also answer for homeward-bound ships, some brief remarks
in this place may be found useful.
Departing froin St. Helena for Europe, a direct course may be steered for the Island 2i[^^'^''°^*J'"
Ascension, "which is about N.W. by N. ; and in this part of the passage, a steady south- st'. 'Heien"to
east trade generally prevails all the year, w ith a westerly current at times. The Island Ascension.
Ascension may be passed on either side, at any convenient distance, but ships com-
monly pass to the westward of it, at from 3 or 4 to 10 or 12 leagues distance.*
From the Island Ascension, steer N. N. W. or N.by W. ^ W. towards the equator. From thence
which ougiit not to be crossed to the eastward of Ion. 18° or 19° W., nor to the west- "" " '"^''"°'-
ward of Ion. 24° or 25° VV. When the sun is in the northern hemisphere, it may be
proper to cross it in Ion. 21° to 23° W., because variable light winds extend a great
way out from the coast of Africa, in July, August, and September, whilst the sun is
returning from the tropic of Cancer to the equator.
From hence, a North or N.by W. course may be steered if the southerly winds be- To*j»ii^from
come light, in order to reach the North-east Trade as soon as |)ossible; but if variable |o\henortii-
light breezes are found to continue far to the northward of the equator, a berth of 40 ward.
or 50 leagues at least ought to be given to the Cape Verde Islands.
Having entered the North-east" Trade, a ship's sails should be ke[)t good fidt m
*
VOL
Ascension is at present a military station, and a British ship of war frequently remains there.
L. II. ' 5 G
778 HOMEWARD PASSAGE FROM ST. HELENA. — AZORES.
crossing- it, that her velocity may be increased, to get speedily to the northward. In
this route, the sargasso or gulf weed is usually first seen in lat. 24° or 25° JN., and
it extends as for to the northward as lat. 40° or 42' N.
When ships get to the northward of the northern limit of the Trade, in lat. 30° or
32° N., they are generally in Ion. 39° to 42° W.
It is seldom advisable to pass to the eastward of the Azores, because northerly winds,
often prevailing betwixt these islands and the coast of Portugal, are unfavourable for
pursuing a direct course towards the British Channel. Ships ought, therefore, to pass
round to the westward of the Azores ; or should the wind veer to north-westward
when near these islands, the most convenient channel may be adopted to pass through
them, as circumstances require.
It has, nevertheless, sometimes happened, that ships which passed to the eastward
of the Azores have had S. W. and West winds, and reached the British Channel
sooner than others which went round to the westward of these islands. A single ship
in time of war might sometimes adopt the eastern route with advantage, to avoid the
enemies' cruizers, which frequently take their station to the westward of Flores.
If the Azores should be rounded at a considerable distance to the westward in the
spring, it will be prudent to keep a good look-out for icebei-gs, which are occasionally
drifted by a southerly current near these islands before they are dissolved. On the
14th April, 1817, the Minerva, from New York, bound to Liverpool, fell in with four
large icebergs, in lat. 42° 47' N., Ion. 47° W. H. M. Ship Emulous, February 26th,
1833, in lat. 4.3° N., Ion. 49° W., fell in with packed field ice, and afterwards with three
large icebergs.
The Government packet Calypso, from Halifax, a missing ship, in the same season,
is supposed to have perished by striking against the ice. There is also great reason to
think that several ships have foundered in the night, by coming in contact with the
wrecks of water-logged timber ships, or others, several of which are constantly floating
and drifting about in the North Atlantic Ocean.
Islands THE AZORES, or WESTERN ISLANDS, are nine in number, exclusive of a
Azores. ^^^^ small islets or dangers, contiguous to some of them ; they are mostly formed of high
mountainous land, with steep, rocky, iron-bound coasts, affording no safe harbours for
large ships. There are several places where vessels anchor at these islands, all more
or less exposed to stormy weather, which prevails greatly in winter. Earthquakes
are also, at times, experienced, producing great devastation.
Flores. FLORES, the westernmost island, extenc^ about 3^ leagues North and South ; the
northern extremity of it, called Ponta del Gada, is in lat. 39° 33' N., Ion. 31° 11' W.
by a series of lunar and chronometric observations taken by Sir Home Popham in
H. M. S. Romney, and agreeing within 2f miles of Tofina's survey of these islands.*
There is a rocky bank, said to lie about a league oft" the S. E. point of Flores, and
anchorage is found in some parts close to the shores of the island.
Corvo. CORVO, separated from the north end of Flores by a safe channel about 3 or 4
leagues wide, is the north-westernmost of the Azores, and about \^ or 1^ leagues in
* The positions of the Azores are here generally given from the surveys of Fleurieu and Tofino, which
agree nearly with each other. These islands, discovered about 1460, were named Ilhas dos Azores, or the
Isles of the Hawks, by the Portuguese, from the great number of those birds seen there. Hence the
name Azores.
AZORES. 779
extent North and South; its northern extremity being in lat, 39°44' N., and Point
Pesqueira Alto, the southern extremity, in lat. 39'^41' N., Ion. 31° 6' W. These two
islands are hilly, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues in clear weather; they are sepa-
rated from the central group of Azores by a safe channel about 35 leagues wide.
FAYAL, the westernmost of the central group, is high, about 3 leagues in extent, Fayai.
of circular form; and its western extremity is in lat. 38° 34' N., Ion. 28° 52' W. ;
South-East Point, or Look-out Hill, in lat. 38° 30' N., Ion. 28° 42' W. by Captain
Owen's Tables.
PICO is separated from the S. E. part of Fayal by a narrow channel, having some Pico.
rocks near the middle of the southern entrance, and this island extends about 5 or 6
leagues nearly W.N.W. and E. S E. Tiie peak, from which tlie island takes its name, is The Peak,
near the S. W. part, in lat. 38° 27' N., Ion. 28° 28' W. : this peak is terminated at the sum-
mit by a sharp cone like a sugar-loaf, elevated about 7,000 feet above the level of the sea.
ST. GEORGE, fronting the northern side of Pico, and separated from it by a safe st. George.
channel 3 or 4 leagues in breadth, is a narrow island, about 7 or 8 leagues in extent
W. N. W. and E. S. E. : there is a small road or harbour on the south side the island,
about 2 leagues from the west point, and close to the Point of Velas, where there is a
village of the same name. The S. E. extreme of this island, called Point del Topa, is south-east
in lat. 38° 30' N., Ion. 27° 51' W. ^°'"'-
GRACIOSA, separated from the north side of St. George by a safe channel about 7 craciosa.
or 8 leagues wide, is 2 or 2| leagues in length, having several high hills on it, which
give it the appearance of two or three islands when first seen. The anchoring place
is at Santa Cruz, on the JN. E. part of the island. The north point of the island is
in lat. 39° 8' N., Ion. 28° 6' W. ; and the S. E. point, called Point del Carapacho, bears
N.49° E., distant 25 miles from the N. W. point of St. George, and N. 60° W., 29 North Poim.
miles distant from Point Ruba, or the west point of Terceira.
TERCEIRA is separated from the S. E. point of St. George by a safe channel 7 or Terceira.
8 leagues wide, and it is moderately high land, 5 or G leagues in length East and West.
Mount Brazil is a forked hill, near the middle of the south coast, in lat. 38° 38^' N., Mount Brazil.
ion. 27° 13' W., and close to the sea ; it is a good mark for the Bay of Angra, which is
close to the eastward.
The city of Angra is the capital of the Azores, and here provisions are plentiful, and Angr».
at moderate prices. About 1^ leagues eastward of Mount Brazil are two steep islets,
called the Goat Islands, and 2 miles S. E. of them are four rocks, called Frailes, or
Friars, with breakers near them,
A vessel coming from S.W., South, or S. E., bound to Angra Bay or Road, should "i['^=^^'°J'^j"'
steer towards Mount Brazil as soon as it is seen ; but as the currents are strong and Road!""
fluctuating, great care should be taken, when calm, not to come too near the steep iron-
bound coast comprised between Mount Brazil and the west end of the island.
Coming from northward round the east end of the island, a wide berth must be given
to the south point of Porto Praya, from which a rocky bank extends East and E. A. E.
to a considerable distance. In approaching Angra from eastward, the Frailes and
Goat Islands will be discerned ; between the latter and the main island there is a
passage, having 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, where a ship might anchor in case of ne-
5 G 2
780
AZORES.
Aiigra Bay un-
safe in stormy
weather.
Porto Praya
Bay and an-
chorage.
cessity. Although there are 24 fathoms water betwixt the two Goat Islands, that
passage, being only a cable's length in width, ought never to be attempted. The
channel between Goat Islands and the Frailes ought always to be preferred, being 2
miles broad, with 90 fathoms water, and clear of danger : or the passage outside the
Frailes may be adopted, giving the berth to the rock under water that lies about a
musket-shot to the southward of them.
Angra Bay is only about half a mile broad, and the bottom being mostly rocky,
vessels moor with several anchors nearest to the western side. When light winds
prevail, in June, July, August, and September, vessels may be safe in this road; but it
being open from S. S.W. to E., there is no shelter from winter storms, which send in a
prodigious sea round the mount from south-westward ; so that the only resource at
these times is to proceed to sea on the least appearance of bad weather. The flood
sets to N.W. and the ebb to S. E., high water on full and change of moon at about 1 If
hours, and the rise of tide is from 4 to 6 feet, according to the wind, but never exceeds
8 feet.
Porto Praya Bay, to the northward of the east point of Terceira, is the best among
these islands, where a whole fleet might anchor in 24 fathoms, sandy ground ; it has the
form of a crescent, and the point on the north side, called Mountain Point, has near it
a small islet to the N. E. The best anchorage is in 24 fathoms, sand, with this islet
shut in with Mountain Point, and the two towers at the bottom of the bay brought in
one. With the town bearing from N.W. to N. N.W., ships may also anchor nearer
the shore, in 20 and 16 fathoms water. There is a good landing place near the castle,
but boats ought not to attempt to land at the bottom of the bay to the south-westward,
w here there is a small bank, on which they would ground.*
St. Michael. ST. MICHAEL, separated from the S. E. end of Terceira by a safe channel 23 or
24 leagues wide, is the longest of the Azores, being 10 or 11 leagues in extent East
and West, but only from 2 to 3 leagues in breadth. The town of St. Michael is on the
south side the island, where vessels anchor in the bay near the shore ; but it affords no
shelter from storms, which frequently happen in winter. The West point of this island,
called Ferraria, is in lat. 37° 54' N., Ion. 25° 59' W. The variation here, about 15^° W.
in 1814.
Some violent convulsions of the earth were felt at St. Micliael, from July, 1810, to
February, 1811, and the people inhabiting the western parts of the island were
alarmed by repeated shocks in January of this year, until the 1st of February, when a
volcano burst out of the sea, projecting upwards, smoke, flames, and combustible matter.
The crater appeared about 200 yards in circumference,! and on February 6th, being
five days after the volcano burst forth, it appeared like a rock under water, with the sea
* The town of Praya was destroyed by an earthquake in the year 1614; it was however rebuilt, and in June,
1841, contained with its adjacent villages nearly 2000 houses, and a population of 9000 souls, when it again
suffered severely from the same cause. On a representation from the Consul respecting the great probability
of shoals having been formed near the island by the violent volcanic action so alarmingly evident during the
several days' continuance of the late earthquake, the Admiralty despatched Captain Vidal in H. M. Steam
Vessel Styx to examine the neighbourhood, as well as the channel between Terceira and St. Michael. Captain
Vidal has satisfactorily shewn that there are no shoals in the suspected localities, and has now commenced a
survey of the entire group of Islands.
t The commander of H. M. Sloop Sabrina landed on this little new formed island, and scrambled among
the ashes and cinders to a considerable distance, as it was well elevated above the sea at this time ; the crater
had diffused so much heat to the edge of the sea, which washed in upon it, that many fish were seen floating
about dead, and the water was very hot. This volcanic isle was, after a few days, again submerged, and
smce that time there have been some eruptions near the same place.
Volcanic
danger.
FORMICAS. 781
breaking furiously over it. This danger is in lat. 37° 52^' N., and about 1 or 1^ miles
distant from the nearest shore of the west end of St. Michael, being a little to the
south-westward of Point Ferraria, and in a westerly line from Pico de Ginetes. The
fishermen say there are soundings of 80 fathoms near it. The subterraneous pressure
of this volcano had probably forced up the rocky bottom near the surface of the sea a
considerable time prior to the explosion ; for the ship Swift, with all her crew, was lost
near, or on the spot, before the appearance of this strange phenomenon.
ST. MARY, the south-easternmost of the Azores, is distant about 12 leagues south- st. Mary.
ward from the east end of St. Michael, and, like the other islands, is high, but of small
extent. The west point, called Maldemarenda, is in lat. 36° 57' N., Ion. 25° 161' W. ;
the town and road of St. Mary, where vessels anchor, is on the south side the island,
near the S.W. point, in lat. 36° 58' N., Ion. 25° 13' W.
THE FORMICAS, or AISTS, lying 3 or 4 leagues N. E. by N. of St. Mary, and Fon"ig«^
fronting the channel between it and the east end of St. Michael, consist of a range of
rocks, 7 or 8 in number, of considerable extent North and South. Some of them are
low, others 40 or 50 feet in perpendicular height, and the sea breaks very high against
them, and also between them in some parts. They are steep to, for no soundings are
got until close upon them. The Great Formigas is in lat. 37° 17' N., Ion. 24° 56' VV.,
and it bears N.34°£. from tlie peak of the highest part of the island St. Mary, and
N. 24° E. from the S. E. point of that island, called Point de Castelo.
A shoal of breakers is said to bear trueS. 40° E., distant 1^ leagues from the For-
migas, but its existence seems doubtful.
The channel between the Formigas and St. Michael is 5 or 6 leagues wide, and free channels
from danger. The little channel, formed betwixt the Formigas and St. Mary is also ^Zresl^"
safe, and about 3 leagues wide, but it is not so much frequented as the other. They are
both destitute of soundings, and the islands of St. Michael and St. Mary are likewise
steep to approach.
When any of the homeward-bound East India ships fall in with the Azores, they may be used
ought to adopt one of the wide channels, to pass through amongst them to the north- bLnTshTpT''
ward ; the largest of these is the Western Channel, bounded on the west side by
Flores and Corvo, and by Fayal and Graciosa to the eastward. If they do not proceed
througli this channel, they should pass through the channel which is formed on the
west side by Terceira and the central group of Azores, and on the east side by the
island St. Michael.
FROM THE ENTRANCE OF THE BRITISH CHANNEL TO THE DOWNS.
AS ALL SHIPS bound homeward from India may not be in possession of the British
best charts and instructions necessary for entering the British Channel, some brief di- Channel.
rections for that purpose may be found useful.
Ships proceeding towards the British Channel have generally been directed to get Remarks on
into the parallel of lat. 49^° N. or 49° 25' N., when considerably to the westward of }^^ ^"^<^}'°"^
Cape Clear, then to steer eastward on this parallel until in soundings of 82 fathoms,
fine white sand with black and yellow specks, which soundings are found on the outer
edge of the bank about 50 leagues westward of Scilly. By running 16 or 17 leagues
farther eastward on the same parallel of latitude, they will have 90 fathoms, fine wliile
sand : from hence, continuing on the same parallel about 20 leagues to the eastward,
782
HOMEWARD PASSAGE. — ENGLISH CHANNEL,
Doubts on the
propriety of
entering the
channel on the
parallel of
4.9J^ N.
Directions for
approaching
and entering
the Channel.
the soundings will decrease to 70 fathoms, but not very regularly in some places ; and
when, in the same parallel, the soundings decrease to 07 or 65 fathoms, shells and small
yellow stones or red sand, the Scilly Islands will be nearly abreast. It would be unsafe
to approach these islands under 63 or 64 fathoms in the night or in foggy weather, for
neither the quality of the bottom nor the depths of water will be always a stiflicient
guide to point out their proximity. At the distance of about 7 leagues South, S.VV.,
and West, from the nearest of the Scilly Islands, the depth is nearly equal, being 63 or
64 fathoms, sand and shells, or ooze and shells ; and there are about 50 fathoms within
2 leagues of the outermost rocks, in a S. £., South, S.W., and West direction, with 40
or 45 fathoms nearly close to the South- westernmost rocks.
The directions formerly given for entering the British Channel, by steering to the
eastward in the parallel of lat.49°25' to 49° 30' N., seems only applicable to ships
navigated by dead reckoning, or when the longitude is not ascertained by lunar obser-
vations or chronometers ; and even under such circumstances, this seems not to be the
besX track for approaching the British Channel.
First. — Because ships are obliged to make a more circuitous route from the Azores,
to get into the parallel of lat. 49^25' N., well to the westward of Cape Clear, than
would be requisite in steering a direct course for the Lizard Point ; and as south-
westerly or westerly winds prevail great part of the year, there can seldom be occasion
to steer so far to the northward.
Secondly. — Because, in time of war, the enemies' cruizers keep frequently to the
westward of Cape Clear, in lat. 49° to 50° N. ; and they are generally best avoided by
steering from the W. S. Westward a direct course into the British Channel.
Thirdly. — Because ships, by keeping in the parallel of lat. 49° 25' or 49° 30' N., have,
when near the Scilly Islands, frequently encountered sudden shifts of wind from the
southward, whereby they were driven to the N.W. of these islands, into St. George's
Channel. From this cause, many ships have been forced to take shelter in Cork, or
some of the harbours on the coast of Ireland, where they were detained long- by
southerly winds; whereas, the same winds would have been favourable for them in
entering and running up the British Channel, had they kept a little farther to the
southward.
Fourthly. — Because, when south-vvesterly or southerly winds prevail, the flood tide
sets 8 or 9 hours northward into St. George's Channel, and the ebb only 3 or 4 hours
southward; by which ships, pursuing the route in the parallel of lat. 49° 2o' or 49° 30'
N., are liable to be drifted among, or to the northward of the Scilly Islands, during
thick foggy weather, when the latitude is not ascertained by correct observation.
From what has been stated, the following route seems to be the most eligible one for
entering the British Channel.
HOMEWARD-BOUND SHIPS, after passing the Azores, should shape a direct
course towards the Lizard Point, inclining a little to the northward as circumstances
require. From January to May, when north-easterly or northerly winds frequently
prevail outside, and in the entrance of the British Channel, it will be proper to get
into about lat. 49° N., when the meridian of Cape Clear is approached : an easterly
course for the Lizard Point ought then to be followed, and if the wind blow steadily
from northward, the parallel of 49° 30' may be preserved in passing the Scilly Islands.
From April or May to November or December, south-westerly and westerly winds
generally prevail ; ships may then steer to get into about lat. 48° N. when they reach
the meridian of Cape Clear, and from this position a direct course may be steered for the
HOMEWARD PASSAGE. — ENGLISH CHANNEL. 783
Lizard Point, But at all times, navigators about to enter the British Channel ought
to act according to particular circumstances, by hauling to the northward or southward,
as the winds render advisable.
It may be observed, that north-easterly and northerly Minds usually prevail in winds.
February, March, and April ; at all other times, south-westerly and westerly winds
are more frequently expeiienced. Next to these, southerly and north-westerly winds
prevail near the entrance of the British Channel; but those from the N.W. quarter are
seldom of long continuance, and generally veer to westward, although at times they
change to North and N.E.
When strong westeily winds continue, an easterly current is frequently forced by currents.
them towards the British Channel, but witli steady easterly winds, the current has been
often found to set out to the westward ; more ])articularly when tlie Bay of Biscay is
open, a south-westerly current is likely to be experienced.
If a ship ha|)pen to approach the projecting part of the French coast at the entrance ushant Lights.
of the channel, it may be observed that Ushant, a steep craggy island, about 4 miles
long from East to West, and 2 miles in breadth, has on its N.E. point a lighthouse
shewing a bright fixed light at an elevation of 272 feet above high water: it is in lat.
48° 28' 31" N., Ion. 5° 3'' 19" W., and may be seen in clear weather at the distance of
6 leagues. The soundings near Ushant are (J4 and 65 fathoms ; high water about 4^
hours on full and change of moon. Variation about 2G|^ W. (1828).
THE SCILLY ISLANDS, lying oft' the Land's End, are, both from their character seiiiy islands,
and position, justly regarded as extremely dangerous to vessels approaching the chan-
nel and doubtful of their reckoning ; under which circumstances they ought to keep
well to the southward when passing them, and on no account ought these islands to
be approached under 60 or 62 fathoms in the night, or in foggy weather. To the
southward and abreast of them, in lat. 49° 20' N,. the depth is 70 fathoms, yellow or
white sand, and the tide Hows here to 4^ hours on full and change of moon. Near, and
among the Scilly Islands, the tides set very irregularly, frequently all round the compass,
St. Agnes Light, in lat. 49° 5.3' 37" N., Ion. 6° 19' 23" W., is easily known by
its revolving every minute, the light being obscured for a short time in each revolution :
it is a bright light, and may be seen in clear weather nearly leagues. The light is
138 feet above high water, and the height of the building is 53 feet. The Island of
St. Agnes, on which it is placed, is the southernmost of the Scilly Islands that is in-
habited ; but rugged islets or dangerous rocks stretch from it about 5 miles to the
westward, having irregulai' soundings from 40 to 50 fathoms about 1 or 2 miles W. by
S. I S. from them, and a rocky spot, with overfalls from 50 to 10 fathoms, about 5 miles
S.W. i W, from them.
When certain of having passed the Scilly Islands, a more northerly course should
be steered to make the land about the Lizard Point, if the wind is favourable ; but
with a scant southerly wind, or in thick foggy weather, that point ought not to be ap-
proached under 45 or 46 fathoms, which depths are about 3 leagues oft" it; and tliere
are 10 or 12 fathoms close in with the rocks, called the Stags, that front tlie point.
The two fixed lights on the Lizard Point are bright, and when the weather is clear. Lizard Point
may be seen at the distance of 20 miles, and at such times may be sighted with safety in *"'' UfUi.
the night; there is no danger in approaching the point within 2 or 3 miles, with day-
light, the soundings being irregular from 30 to 40 fathoms at that ilistance. The light-
houses bear W. | N. and E. f S,, 223 feet froui each other, and are both 45 feet in
height; the eastern light is 221 feet and the western light 224 feet above high water.
784
HOMEWARD PASSAGE. — ENGLISH CHANNEL.
Eddystone.
To proceed
from hence up
channel.
Caskets.
Variation of
the compass.
Point, the stream of flood runs eastward in mid-channel,
moon, and it is then about half ebb upon
full and change of
Abreast the Lizard
nearl}' 8 hours on
shore.
Between the Lizard Point and the Eddystone, a ship may stand off to 50, and
shore, to 42 fathoms, but not nearer ; as there are 36 fathoms nearly in the stream
the latter, the
light of which is
bright, and rnav be seen 4
till
the
in
of
leagues off in clear weather.
From hence, to the Start Point, a ship may approach the shore to 32 fathoms, and
stand off to 46 fathoms. A revolving light, 204 feet above the sea, shewing a suc-
cession of brilliant flashes, is exhibited on the Start Point, and an additional light fixed
is also exhibited in the same lighthouse, in the direction of Berry Head ; there
is an interval of a minute between the flashes, and the light may be seen in clear
weather 6 leagues.
About 3 or 3^ miles N. W. ^ N. from the Eddystone, is the Hand Deep Bank,
having only 4 fathoms on it at low water spring tides, and 30 fathoms very near it.
If a ship pass the Lizard Point with %mfavourable weather, so as to prevent its being
discerned, care ought to be taken to get a sight of the Eddystone Lighthouse, or, at
all events, of the land over the Start Point, which is a sloping oblong hill. This is
indispensable, if the position of a ship has not been previously ascertained, to avoid
getting over on the French coast, near the Caskets and their adjoining dangers ; for
the indraught of the tide between the coast of Brittany and the Islands of Jersey and
Guernsey has proved fatal to several ships steering up channel, M'hich did not keep
within a proper distance of the English coast.
THE CASQUETS, or CASKETS, having three revolving lights, are easily known;
these and the Bill of Portland bear nearly true North and South of each other, and
are distant about 13 or 14 leagues: as the tides run strong here, and being the nar-
rowest part of the channel until the strait of Dover is approached, it becomes more
necessary to make the land about the Start Point, in order to shape a proper course
to avoid the dangers off the French coast, and to give a berth to the Shambles and
Race of Portland. On the Bill of Portland there are two bright fixed lights.
In this part of the channel, the tides run from 2 to 3 miles an hour; and between
Alderney and Cape La Hogue, from 6 to 7 miles per hour, which is called the Race
of Alderney.
From the Start Point, a course ought to be pursued up channel as circumstances
require, borrowing towards the English coast with northerly winds, or keeping near
mid-channel with south and S. W. winds. If the Start Point has been passed at the
distance of 4 or h leagues, an E. by S. course will be proper to steer with a fair wind.
The Owers Floating Light is bright and fixed, and may be seen 3 leagues in clear
weather ; the light vessel is moored in 1 1 fathoms water, and a gong is sounded every
10 minutes during fogs. When ships are seen approaching clanger, a gun is fired,
and the flag lowered half-mast until they alter their course.
Lieutenant Murdoch M'Kenzie, Marine Surveyor to the Admiralty, made the varia-
tion of the compass 23° West at Tor Bay in 1781, and 23° W. at St. Helen's in 1783.
Lieutenant John Murray, in a survey of the coast near Beachy Head, made the varia-
tion at that place 23° W. in 1806. Mr. Grceme Spence, a very accurate surveyor, who,
under the direction of the Admiralty Board, surveyed minutely great part of the coasts
of England, made the variation 24° 45' W. at the Scilly Islands, in 1792. From 1792
to 1817, a period of 25 years, the total increase of the variation in London was 33^
minutes West, which, added to the observed variation by Mr. Spence in 1792, at the
HOMEWARD PASSAGE. — ENGLISH CHANNEL. 785
Scilly Islands, would make the variation there 25° 18' VV. in 1817, which is proba-
bly near the truth ; for the annual increase of variation cannot difier much at the
Scilly Islands from that observed at London, as the quantity is very small, from the
magnetic pole being nearly stationary ; and it is now nearly certain that the westerly
variation is beginning to decrease. The mean variation at Greenwich, for the first six
months of this year, (1842) was 23° 12' W.
Ships entering the British Channel may allow about 26° of west variation until
they approach the Scilly Islands, 25° in running up to the Isle of Wight, and 24°
from thence to Dungeness.
FROM THE START POINT, an E. by S. course will \n general, with a fair From the
wind, carry a ship directly up channel until abreast of Beachy Head ; which ought not eh^na'"' ""*
to be approached under 18 fathoms in a large ship, on account of the shoals that lie
to the S. E. and eastward of it. The light on Belletout Cliff, Beachy Head, is bright,
revolving every two minutes, and may be seen 9 leagues in clear weather ; when kept
open of the Cliff, it leads clear of the Royal Sovereign Shoal. When past these
shoals, it is proper to haul up east and E. N. Eastward for Dungeness, in order
to give a berth to the Ridge and Varne Shoals, in proceeding towards the South
Foreland.
It may be proper to observe, that an accumulation of water is forced into the British caution in
Channel with strong S. W. winds, the tides being then much liigher than at other ^"jj^n " s w'''
times. The velocity of the flood is also increased by these winds, for it continues an wind, or in
hour, or more, longer than usual, the ebb being greatly repressed by them. F"rom this f°B&>' ^*^"''^'^-
circumstance, ships running up-channel with a strong S. W. gale are liable to be
ahead of their reckoning, if a proper allowance is not made : for by entering it with
the first of the flood, and running at the rate of 8 or 9 knots by the log, they will
carry the tide with them 10 or 11 hours, which will probably carry them all the way
from the Start, up to Beachy Head, or, in some cases, nearly to Dungeness. From
this cause, several ships have got upon the Ridge or Varne Shoals, or over towards
Cape Grisnez, when by the reckoning they had scarcely passed Beachy Head.
The weather in the Channel being frequently very thick and foggy, great caution is
necessary when navigators are not well acquainted, particularly if they encounter
variable winds blowing strong. Between the Start Point and the Bill of Portland, a
ship may keep in from 30 to 36 fathoms ; by not exceeding the latter depth, she will
avoid the strong indraught between Guernsey, Jersey, and their contiguous dangers.
Oft' the Bill of Portland, the flood runs to the eastward until 10^ hours at full and
change of moon. The Race and Sliambles hiliould not be a|)proached under 26 fa-
thoms, for the water deepens to 40 and 45 fathoms in some holes near the race, with
very uneven rocky bottom.
Between the Bill of Portland and Dunnose, from 35 to 26 fathoms are good depths From the Bin
to keep in, with a N. W. or northerly wind ; by not coming under ^(i fatiioms, the in- nJnnoit"''"*
draught towards the Needles and Fresliwater Bay will be avoided. The lead ought
to be kept going when the Isle of Wight is approached during tliick weather, for by
neglecting it, many ships iiave been lotst.
Tlie flood runs to the eastward oft' Dunnose, in mid-channel, until about 1 1 hours at
fidl and change of moon; and about 2 hours sooner on the shore, it is high water.
The south part of the Isle of Migiit ought not to be approached too closely, for the shore
is fronted by a rocky uneven bottom, with strong rippling^ during spring tides.
VOL. 11. 5 H
786
HOMEWARD PASSAGE.— ENGLISH CHANNEL.
Kingsmore
Shoal.
26i
High Down
Beachy Head.
Wide Mouth
Shoal.
FromDunnose FROM DUNNOSE to the OwcFS, a ship may approach the shore to 22 or 20
totheowers. fathoms, and stand oft" to 30 fathoms; when near the Owers in thick weather and
lio-ht winds, the lead ought not to be neglected, because the last quarter flood and the
whole of the ebb set strong over that dangerous bank towards St. Helens Road, and
20 fathoms water is very near it. To the eastward of the Owers lies Kingsmore
Shoal, extending N.E. and S.W. about 2 miles, having 5^ and 6 fathoms, hard
"•ravel, on its S. E. part, which is the least water. From its S. E. extremity the true
bearings and distances of the following places were ascertained by Colonel Beaufoy,
■who surveyed this shoal; viz. Beachy Head signal-mast E. 5°9'N., distant
miles; west side of Chanctonbury Ring N. 9° 47' E., distant 10 miles
Windmill N. 4° ni' E., distant 8| miles: Chichester Spire N. 58° 55' W., distant
15f miles ; and the Owers Light W. 12° 34' S., distant 9 miles.
Between the Owers and Beachy Head, from 28 to 18 fathoms are good depths to
preserve ; by not borrowing under 18 fathoms, a ship will pass outside the shoals that
lie to the E. S. E. of Beachy Head, the outermost of which is Wide Mouth Shoal,
generally called the Royal Sovereign Shoal, because H. M. Ship of this name was
nearly lost on it; it is circular, and about 500 feet in diameter, with 12 or 13 feet
water on it at low spring tides. This shoal was examined by Colonel Mark Beaufoy,
accompanied by some fishermen, who ascertained its relative position from the fol-
lowing places by sextant.
Bexhill Church bears true N. 17^° E., distant 6| nautic miles from the shoal;
Willington Mill true W. 18f° N., distant 7f miles; Beachy Head flagstaff true
W. 2^° S., distant 6f miles : and the shoal bears E. S. E. by compass from Beachy
Head flagstaff. When upon the shoal, Murray Tent is on with the east knowl, called
Tillum, and the grove near Hollywell on with the Chalk Pit and three Bergs.
To avoid the shoal in coming up channel, when round Beachy Hoad, observe a spot
called Greenland, which keep open with the Bluft" Head, and steer E. by N. by com-
pass, to keep clear of the shoal, and you will fetch Dungeness lighthouse.
There is said to be another patch of this shoal, with 4 fathoms water on it, bearing
by compass about E. S. E. f S. from Beachy Head, distant 6^ miles, and about a mile
outside the former; and another patch, called the Horse of Willington, is said to lie
within them.*
Off Beachy Head, the flood runs eastward until 1 If hours on full and change of
moon.
By bringing either of the three windmills on with the sea houses at East Bourne,
there is good anchorage in hard blue clay, and safer riding than at Dungeness.
From the shoals oft' Beachy Head to Dungeness, a ship may stand oft' to 20, and
in-shore to 12 fathoms; by not coming under this depth, she will pass clear outside
the shoals that lie to the west and eastward of Dungeness. Here, the flood which
enters the channel from westward comes in contact with the flood that comes from
the north sea through the Strait of Dover, which is called the meeting of the tides.
Their direction and velocity hereabout depend much on the strength of the prevailing
winds, being subject to great irregularities at times. Dungeness Light is fixed, and is
visible 6 or ii^ leagues in clear weather.
Tides.
From Beachy
Head to
Dungeness.
From Dunge-
ness to the
Downs.
FROM ABREAST OF DUNGENESS, a ship must not stand off farther than
17 or 18 fathoms, on account of the Varne; nor under 12 fathoms towards the shore,
• The Admiralty Chart, containing an excellent survey of these shoals and the adjacent coast, will be found
a valuable guide for this part of the Channel.
HOMEWARD PASSAGE. — ENGLISH CHANNEL. 787
until clear of the ledge of rocks that projects above a mile from the shore westward of
Folkstone. When to the eastward of this ledge, the shore is safe to approach to
10 fathoms, and to avoid the Varne and Ridge, in passing from Folkstone to Dover, a
ship should keep within 3 miles of the shore.
Proceeding from Dover Road towards the Downs, 17 fathoms would carry a ship
outside the South Sandhead, the track of 15 fathoms is directly towards it, and 12 or
13 fathoms will carry her within it ; but the South Foreland being pretty steep to,
many ships have run upon the shore there in the night, during thick foggy weather,
because they were fearful of getting near the Goodwin Sand. When the South Fore-
land lights are seen, a ship will not get upon the main if the lights are kept in sight
from the deck over the land; but she ought not to come under 10 or 11 fathoms off
the pitch of the Foreland, because these depths are only about half a mile from the
shore, which is steep in this place, from 10 to 6 fathoms ; and from the depths of 6 or
7 fathoms, a ship might ground on the rocks before another cast of the lead could be
obtained. The two South Foreland Lights are fixed bright white lights, visible
6^ leagues in clear weather.
WHEN SHIPS are obliged to run from Dover Road to the Downs during very
thick weather in the night, when the lights are not seen, it is certainly preferable to
borrow towards the main rather than venture near the Goodwin Sand ; but in doing
so, great caution is requisite, because the soundings are not a perfect guide, for the
depths decrease a little near the South Sandhead, as well as towards the main.
The best track appears to be, to keep along the shore in 11 to 12 fathoms, under
easy sail, that soundings may be got exactly, and when round the pitch of the Fore-
land, it will be prudent to haul up to the northward until a cast of 9 or even 8 fathoms
is got, to be certain that the decrease of depth is on the main ; but in doing this, care
must be taken to heave the lead quick, and on no account ought a ship to borrow
under 8 fathoms towards the shore, until she anchors in the Downs.
5 H 2
789
INDEX TO VOLUME 11.
Plflces marked with * have their Latitudes and Longitudes piven in tlie work.'
Abbreviatimis. B. Bay — C. Coast — Ca. Cape — G. Gulf — H. Harbour — I.
Sh. Shoal— N. North— S. South— E. East— W. West.
-Those marked with t have only their Latitudes given.
Island— Is. Islands — P. Port — Pt. Point — R. Kiver—
ALE
A-aa Town ... China, E. Pao-e 432
Aaron Mount ... Sumbawa ... 664
fAbai Harbour . Borneo, W. ... 524
Abra de Bitran... Luzon, W. ... 495
•Abregoes Shoal . Pacific Ocean 637
Abula R. ... Luzon, N. ... 497
•Acasta Rock ... Cliina Sea ... 304
•Achen ... ... Sumatra ... 65
Achen Head ... Sumatra 64, 68
fAche Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 120
Achow ChanneL Canton R. ... 381
Achow Is. ... Canton R. ... ib.
Acoong Chow... China, S. ... 415
Actceon Rfs. & L Van Diemen L. 709,
710
Adam L ... Aracan C. ... 11
Adam L ... S. Pacific Ocean771
fAdder L ... Luzon, W. ... 493
Addington's Sh. Alacassar Strait 5.^>3
•Adelaide Is. ... South Oc. ... 767
Adenara I.&To., Flores Strait 675
Adi Pulo ... N. Guinea ... 691
♦Admiralty Is. ... Pacific Ocean 753
*Adolphus Mount, Ditto 736, 747
♦Adventure Bay VanDiemenLa. 712
*Agnes, Light & I., St., Sciliy Is. 783
AguilhasBank&Ca.,Africa.S. 774.775
Agulhas Bank ... Africa, S. ... 774
*AiouIs. ... GilloloPass. 615
•j-Akyab ... Aracan C. ... 8
Alabat I. ... Luzon, E. ... 523
*Aladin Is. ... Bengal Bay ... 42
fAlamagan 1. ... Marian Is. ... 637
Alass ... ... Sumatra, W. 110
•Albatross I. ... Bass Strait ... 718
Albion I. ... Jloluccas ... 604
Albion Port ... Keeling Is. ... 131
Alccste I. ... China, E. ... 459
Alceste Rock ... Ga.spar Straits 184
Alcoran ... Tonking K. ... 348
Alderney Race . EnglishChannel 784
* Alert Reef ... Pacific Ocean 733
AMS
I
* Alert Reef,
♦Alexander I.
♦Alexander Shoal,
Algoa Bay
Alguada Reef...
Aligator Bay ...
Aligator I.
Aliguav L
♦Alike is.
Torres Str. Page 745
,.. Southern Ocean 767
China Sea, 482,484
Africa, E. ... 773
Ava 17, 22, 47
Flores, W. ... 667
Singapore Str. 266
Mindanao, N. 519
Borneo, E. 548,549
fAlimpapan Point, Mindanao, W. 571
Alkmaar I. ... Batavia Road 155
Allang Is. ... Malacca Strait 229
f Allang Point ... Amboina I. ... 700
Allang Pulo ... Malacca Strait 229
Allang Teega Is., Sumatra, E. 205
Allass Strait
Ind. Oc.
643, 660
to 664
Sumb., W. ..
Flores Strait
Singapore Str
Rhio Strait ..
Lomblcn I. ..
Allass
Alligator Bay.
Alligator I.
Alligator I.
Alloo Strait .
Along-AjangPt., Sunda Str.
Amacock Pt. ... Canton R.
Amaliay Bay ... Ceram, S.
♦Amblaw I. ... Molluccas
♦Amboina I. & Bay, Ditto
♦Amboina Sand . China Sea
Amboina Shoal .
Ambolon I.
Araboon Harb. .
Amelia Bank ...
Amherst Har. iS;I
Amherst T.iS:Har., Martaban R.
f Amherst Rocks China, E. ...
Amoy I. & Harb., Cliina, E
tAmpannan
Ampat Pulo
•Amphitrite Is..
* Amsterdam 1.,
Amsterdam I. ,
•Amsterdam I.,
662
667
266
202
676
144
375
698
697
700
484
594
575
525
173
11
26
.. 454
426 to
431
Lombock. W. 657
Sumatra.W. 95,97,
549
China Sea ... 357
Engano I. ... 129
Batavia Rd.... 152
NewGuinea,N.629
Celebes, S.
Mindora, S.
Borneo, W.
Banca Strait
., Aracan, C.
AOR
♦Amsterdam 1. ... Moluccas Pao-e 695
Amul I. ... Luzon, W. .7. 491
Amu! I. ... Luzon, S. ... 522
Anak Barellah . Sumatra, E. ... 205
Anak Serah ... Sumatra ... 206
*.Analaboo ... Sum.ttra, W. 78
Anamba Is. ... Cliina Sea ... 305
Anatajan I. ... Marian Is. ... 637
Andaman Archip. Bengal Bay 46 to
55
*Andaman, Great Bengal Bay ... 50
•Andaman, Little Bengal Bay 53,51
* Andaman, Middle, Bengal Bay . 50
♦Andaman, North Bengal Bay ... 48
♦Andaman, South Bengal Bay... 51
tAndaman, Port, Great .Andaman 50
Andaman Strait, Great Andaman 51
Andre St. Port, Philippines ... 522
Andrew Is. St. . Mergui ... 41
♦Andrew Is. St. . N. Pacific Oc, 632
Andrew I. St. . Chusan Is. ... 440
♦Angelica Shoal, near Flores ... 671
Anghor Colley Chittagong ... 3. 4
♦Angour I. ... Pellews ... 633
Angra Bay&Cily, Azores ... 779
Anguels. ... Andaman ... 52
Anisone Pt. ... Celebes, W — 551
*Aiijer Vil.&Rd. . Java, N. 147, 179
Ann Grab Pt. ... Callam Strait 249
Annam Pulo ... Sumatra, \V. 95, 97
•Anna Pulo ... N. Pacific Oc. 632
Anson Bay ... Canton R. ... 403
Anse-Paris ... Anamba Is. ... 306
♦.\ntelope Is. ... Kangelang S. 652
♦Antipodes I. ... S.PacificOcean 771
t Antique B.ay ... Panay, ^^'. ... 573
Ants Rocks ... Atlantic ... 781
Antury Shoal ... Marian Is. ... 63()
Anung-hoy Hill Canton R. 402,403
Anung-hoy Pt. . Canton R ... 404
Anzas Pulo ... Malacca Str. 247,
248
Ao-shan ... Chusan Is. ... 446
*Aor Pulo ... China Sea ... 312
790
A WO
Aparri ... Luzon, N. ... 497
Apee, Tanjong . Borneo, W. ... 526
*Apo I. & Shoal . Mind. Str. 576,57.5
Apomee I. ... Macao Road 396
Appenam Bay... Lombock Str. 657
Apra Port ... fllarian Is. ... 632
*Apres Shoal ... Chittagong ... 5
tAracanC. ... Bengal Bay 6 to
13, 1
*Aracan R. ... Aracan C. ... 7,9
Arafura Sea ... ... ... 685
fArago Bay ... Waigiou ... 613
Arch Rock ... VanDiemenL. 712
♦Arenas Point ... Luzon, W. ... 494
*ArentesL ... Java Sea ...587
Ares, Tanjong... Borneo, E. ... 553
Arethusa Reef . China Sea ... 311
Arfiik Mountains, NewGuinea, N. 629
Armstrong Ch. Bass Strait ... 719
fArmuyden Bank, Java Sea ... 159
Arram Pulo ... Malacca Str. 253
•Arrecife I. ... Carolinas ... 761
fArroa Is. ... Malacca Str. 237
*ArroaRound&Long,MalaccaStr. 238
Arroas Western, Malacca Strait, ib.
*Arroe Islands ... Timor Sea, ... 688
"Arrogant Shoal, Java Sea,
587
Arru Is. ... Timor Sea, ... 688
♦Arsacides I., S. Pacific Ocean, 757
Arthur Point, Van Diemen La. 710
Arthur Port, Van Diemen La. 712
Arzobispo I. ... N. Pacific ... 510
Asbestos Mountains, V. Diemen La.
717
Ascension I. ... Atlantic Ocean 777
*Ascension I. ... Pacific Ocean 760
Asia Shoal ... Sumatra W. 109
*Asia Is. ... Pacific Ocean 616
f Asloman Village, Panay W. ... 573
Aspinall I. ... Pacific Ocean 742
*AssarhanR. ... Sumatra, N. 225
fAsseerghur Shoal, Aracan C. ... 6
Asses Ears ... Lingin ... 199
*AssesEars ... China, S. ... 385
Asses Ears ... Pulo Timoan 3J3
♦Assumption I. ... Marian I. ... 637
AttueePulo ... Ceram, N. ... 698
*Atwick Rock ... China Sea ... 305
♦Auckland Is.,(Lord)S Pacific Oc. 770
tAugustal. ... Dampier Strait 617
Augusta Shoal, DampierStr. ... 620
♦Augustine St. Cape, Mindanao, S. 564
Auriols I. Mergui, Archipelago 42
♦Aurora Bank, Moluccas 609, 588
Aurora I. ... New Hebrides 759
Australia, E. & N. E. 720, 729
Australia S. E. Coast ... 720
•Australia Reef, S. Pacific Oc. 730
Australian Winds and Currents 728
AvaC. ... Bengal Bay, 13 to 19
♦Avon Is. ... Pacific Ocean, 732
Awat, Tanjong, Malacca 247
Awo-ta Rock ... China, E. ... 425
BAL
Ay, Pulo ... Bandals. ...702
fAyer Besav Pulo, Sumatra, W. 102
*Ayer Bongy Bay, Sumatra W. 91
*Ayer Bongy ... ... ... ib.
Ayer Dicket ... ... ... 104
AyerEtamR ... ... 105
AyerKetchell Pulo, Sumatra, W. 102
Ayerlaboo ... Sumatra, N 221
Ayer Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 95,97
Ayer Raja 103,102
Ayer Ruttah R. 105
Ayer Watchely, Gillolo, E. ... 608
Aypour ... Sumatra, W., 105
Azores, Atlantic Ocean 778 to 781
B.
BaakeleBay ... Celebes, S. ... 593
Baba I. ... Sewatty Is. ... 686
Babal. ... Yowl Is. ... 615
♦Babberl. ... Banda Sea ... 686
BabeeBesar ... Sumatra, W. 102
Babee Kechcll, Sumatra, W. ib.
Babee Pulo Bay, Sumatra, W. ib.
Babel I. ... Bass Strait ... 719
Babi L ... Sewatty Is. ... 689
♦Babianl. ... Java Sea ... 586
* Babuyan (Claro), Luconia, N. 499
♦Babuyan Is. ... Luzon, N. ... 498
Baby Pulo, Sumatra W. 150,119
fBaby Pulo ... Java, N. ... 149
Baby Pulo ... China Sea ... 311
fBaby Pulo ... Timor Sea ... 677
Baby Pulo ... Ceram, W. ... 698
Bad. ... Cochin China, 339
BaccarPulo ... Sumatra, W. 88
Baccown Point, Sumatra, E. ... 205
Back Bay ... Sumatra, N. 220
Baco Is. ... Luzon, S. ... 522
*Bacoongon Bay, Sumatra, W. 82
Bad Bay ... Van Diemen L.708
Badjo Baroo ... Sumbawa, 664
BadjoLamo ... Sumbawa, ib.
Badoc ... Luzon, N. 496
Badong ... LombockStrait 658
Bagar Bay ... Luzon, W. 493
Bagatao I. ... Luzon, S. 522
Baglawangls. ... Celebes Sea 597
Baguan I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
f Bahalatolisl. ... Sooloo Sea ... 516
Bahi ... Luzon, E. ... 523
Bahroos,Oojong, Sumatra, W. 73
♦BajadoreCape, Luzon, N. ... 496
Bakeck Point, Tsiompa ... 328
Ba-keu Point ... Tsiompa ... ib.
fBalabac I. ... ChinaSea,512,5I4
Balabac Strait, China Sea ... 512
Balabalakl. ... Moluccas ... 611
*Balabalakan Is. Macassar Strait 555
*Balagonan Point, Mindanao, W. 572
♦Balambang Is. Borneo, N. ... 513
♦Balambangan I. & H. Borneo, N. 513,
512
BAR
*Balambouang Bay, Bally Strait, 65.">
Balanac Point, Luzon, W. ... 495
Baleekpappan Bay, Borneo, E. 556
*Baie of Cotton Rock, Bengal Bay,ll7
Balinasay Point, Luzon, W. ... 494
♦Balintang Is. & Chi., China Sea, 500
fBallastl. ... China Sea ... 374
*Ballook Ballook I., Sooloo Sea... 570
Ball Pyramid, S. Pacific Ocean 730 »
*BailyI &Mount. Bally I. 653 to 656
Bally Strait ... Java, E. ib. to ib.
♦Bally Town ... Lombock, E. 661
♦Bally Volcana Peak, Bally I. ... 655
Balu-Lagong ... Borneo, W. ... 527
tBambek Shoal, Malac. Str. 2.52,243
Bamboo I. ... Petchelee, G. 459
Bampesoi ... Siam Gulf ... 321
*Bampton Shoal, S. Pacific Oc. 732
*BancaI. & Strait Celebes, N. ... 559
BancaN. E.C. Banca I. ...191
tBanca S.W. Point Banca I. ... 164
Banca Strait, & I. Ind. Archip. 164
to 181
Banca Strait, Tides in ... ... 164
Banca Strait, Western Channel 165
Banca Strait, from theNorthward 177
♦Bangcawang I. Sooloo Sea ... 516
fBancoongongBay&R. Sumatra, W. 82
♦Bancooraan I. Sooloo Sea ... 516
*BandaIs. ... Banda Sea ... 702
Banda Monsoons, Banda Sea ... 693
Banda Neira ... Banda Is. ... 702
Banda Sea Moluccas ... 693
Bandar ... Sumatra,W.... HI
Bandigan ... Madura Strait 656
Banditti I. ... Lombock Strait658
Ban-ga-boe Rock, China, E. ... 436
♦Bangalore Shoal, Flores, ... 671
Ban-ga-oa I. ... China, E. ... 436
fBangi Wangi ... Bally Strait ... 654
tBangri Town ... Mergui Archip. 44
♦Bangueyl.&Peak, China Sea, 513,512
Bangui Port & Pt.Luzon, N. 496
fBaniak, or Bania, or Banjack I.
Sumatra, W 83,119
Banjoan 1. ... Timor Sea ... 668
Banka ... Sumatra, N.... 225
*Bankok, Capital of Siara ... 320
Bankole ... Sumatra, W. 86
♦Banks Ca. ... New S. Wales 721
Bankshall I. ... Canton River 409
Bank Strait ... Van Diemen L. 719
Bantall R. & Bay, Sumatra, W. 105
Bantam Bay and Hill, Java N. 150
Bantam Ca. ... Cochin China 344
Bantam Hill ... Java N. ... 149
Bantam Points. Java, N. 148,139
Bantay I. ... Luzon, W. ... 495
Banton I. ... Philippines ... 522
Baoua Pulo ... Anamba Is. ... 305
Baracouta Banks, Alias Strait ... 644
Bar Reach ... Callam Strait 249
Bar Creek ... Callam Strait ib.
BAT
Bar Fort ... Macao ... 374
Baragu R. & Point, Pegu 19 to 24
Barbah Pahroa, Oojong, Sumatra,
69,70
Barbah Wee Bay, Sumatra, W. 69
Barbah Nepah Point, Sumat, VV. 71
BarbeSt. I. ... China Sea ... 302
f Barbucit False Hill, Malaya, E.
277,276
fBarbucit Hill ... Malaya, S. 203,
274
BardiaPulo ... Siam Gulf ... 319
♦Baring Hay ... Sandalwood I. 068
•Baring Shoal ... Pacific Ocean 732
fBarn I., Caspar Straits 183, 185
Barn I., Singapore Strait 264, 266
Barn Ledge & Point, St. Helena 770
fBaroos ... Sumatra, W. 86
Barram Tanjong, Borneo, W. ... 52.5
Barrel Rock, Port Dalrymple 717
*Barren Ca. & I., Bass Strait ... 719
•Barren I. ... Bengal Bay 54,55
Barren!. ... China S. ... 370
Barren Joice I. Van DiemenL.715
Barrete I. ... Luzon, N. ... 498
*BarrierReefs, Australia,^ 728to750
Barroo, Tanjong, Durian Str. 205
Barrow Bay, ... Lieu-Chew L 508
Barwell I. ... S. Pacific Oc. 759
•Baseelan I. ... SoolooSea 507
♦Baseelan Strait, Mindanao S. 567
*Bashee Is,, China Sea 500 to 502
♦Basil Bay ... Corea ... 471
Basil.Hall Harbour, Staten L ... 768
Bassar Pulo ... Ceram, N. ... 698
Basseen R. ... Ava, S. ... 17
Bass Harbour ... Ladda Is. ... 231
Bassoo, Tanjong, Durian Str ... 205
♦Bass Strait, Van Diemen Land 720
Bastards ... Flores, N. ... 672
♦Batacarang Point, Sumatra, E. 173
Batac I. ... Samar, N. ... 521
Batan L ... Bashee Is. ... 501
Batangan Cape Cochin China 344
Batangas Bay ... Luzon. S. ... 523
Batang CapayBay, Sumatra, W. 102
Batangpally Is. Gillolo Passage 611
♦Batan 1. ... Bashees ... 501
♦Batavia&Bay Java, N. 151 to
157, 179
♦Batavia Observatory, Java ... 156
♦Batchian I. & Strait, Moluccas 695
■f-Bateman Bay ... Australia, ... 721
Bathurst Harbour, Van Diemen L.707
Batio Rousa ... Banca I ... 191
BatoaKetchell Pulo Sumatra, VV. 113
Batoa Pulo, Sura. W. 91, 97, 1 13, 12 1 ,
123
Bate Balow ... Sooloo Sea ... 567
Bato Bontonga iVIacassar Str. 549
Batomande Point Borneo ... 524
Batoo, Tanjong Sumatra ... 220
Batoo Mama Pt. Sumatra, W. 88
BER
Batoo Pootie Tanjong, Sumatra, N. 220
Balslia ... Tonking R. ... 348
Battakeeka Fort Banda Is. ...702
Battam I. & N. E. Pt. Malacca
Strait ... 203, 272, 279
Battanta I. & Reef, Pitt Str. 626, 624,
625
Battaur Pulo ... Singapore Str. 272
Battooblat Hiil&Point, Borneo, W. 527
Batto Copeah ... Samatra,VV. 81
*Batto Gady ... Timor, N. ...680
Batto Lombo I., Moluccas ... 695
Battoo Baloo ... Malacca Strait 273
* Battoo-Barra River, Sumatra, N. 224
BattooBarroo.Pt., Sumatra, W. 87, 98
Battoo Boroo ... Sumatra ... 69
Battoo Mongo Sumatra, VV. 126
Battoo Ply-eah Sumatra, VV. 80
♦Battoo Pulo ... Timor, N. ...680
Battoo Tootung Sumatra, VV, 75
Batto Toonkal ... Sumatra, VV. 81
Battuwang Bay Sumatra, VV. 102
+ Batty Malve 1. Bengal Bay 56
Batu Meau ... Lettee I. ... 685
♦Baubelthouap I. Pellew Is. 633,634
Bawang ... Luzon, S. 523
Bay of Islands ... New Zealand 764
Bayat I. ... Bashees ... 501
Beachy Head ... England, S. 786
Beacon Rock ... Chusan Is. ... 446
Beak Head I. ... Chusan Is. ... 441
Bear ... China, E. ... 438
Bearing Point ... Borneo, S. ... 542
Beaufort I. ... Leatong, G. 470
Beaupre Harb. VV'aygiou I. ... 613
BedattaTooa, Tanjong, Borneo VV. 542
•f-Bee-Hive ... Moluccas ... 618
Bee-Hive ilount New Guinea 629
Beeat Point ... Banca, VV. 174, 193
Beeteenan ... Sooloo Sea ... 518
Behouden Passage, Java ... 144
*Beit My 00 ... Altrgui ... 31
fBejaren I. ... Celebes, N. ... 560
•j-Belavvn I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 569
Belega ... Madura, I. ... 656
Bell I. ... CUiusan I. ... 443
Belletout Cliff... Beachy Head 785
♦BellinghauseuL, S. Pacific Ocean 763
'Bellona Shoals, S Pacific Ocean 731
Bellona Is. ... Pacific ... 750
Bell Rock ... Bass Strait ... 718
i Belvidere Shoals, Gaspar Str. ... 188
Bencoolen R. ... Sumatra, W. 105
fBencoonat ... Sumatra, S. 112
Bengal Hay ... ... 1
Bengal Hay Directions, India ... 136
Bengal Hay Storms, India ... 19
Bengal Passage, Acheti Is. ... 63
*Benjar Masseen R. Borneo. S. 541
Bentinck Is. ... Mcrgui Is. 37,38
Bcntinck Harb. Mcigui Is. 38, 39
Bentin(k Sound Marlaban ... 28
Berak Point ... Celebes, S. ... 593
BOA
791
•f- Bergen I. ... Sumatra, VV. 128
Berg VVakoo ... Ceram, N. ... 699
f Beringa Pulo ... Rliio Strait ... 202
Bernardino St. I. Luzon, S. ... 521
Bernardino St. Strait, Luzon S. ib.
Berry Head ... England ... 784
fBesseyPulo ... SundaStr. 142, 179
Betsey I. ... DerwentR. ... 713
*Bli udder Mokham, Aracan ... 7
*BiasBay ... China, S. 418,415
fBidan Pulo ... Malacca Strait 233
*i5ienia Bay ... .Suinbawa, N. 604
tBigan Gap & Road Luzon, W.
f Hillinibing Bay <S.- R. Sumatra, S
f I'lilliton I. ... Java Sea
Billiton Strait ... Java Sea
Hill of Portland, England, S
*Bima Bay
Hinkang Bay
*Bintang Hills
Bintang I.
Sumbawa, N.
Cochin China
Hiniang I. ...
China Sea ...
49o
113
537
532
784
664
339
278
2?9
Biutango Pulo, Sumatra, VV. 100, 101
Bird 1.
Bird I.
*BirdL
•Bird I.
Bird L
* Bird Is.
*Bird Is.
Birdnest Is.
*Birdnest Point
Bird Rock
Biscay Bay
Caramata Pass. 537
New Guinea 691
iMarian Is. ... 637
S.Pacific Ocean 735
Sumatra, VV. 86, 99
Africa, S. 773, 774
Australia
Borneo, VV.
Mergui Is.
Chusan I.
Spain N.
748
529
42
440
783
(i.
I Bi>liop iS: Clerk, S. Pacific Ocean 770
Black Is.
Black Is.
Blackheathl. ..
Black-ink City
Blackjack ..
Black Mount ..
Pe-tche-lee
China S.
Chusan Is. ...
China, E.
Cochin China
China, S.
459
436
450
458
422
718
.Malacca Strait 248
*Black Pyramid Ba>s Strait
Black River
tBIack Rock ... Ava, VV. ...
Black Rock ... Bencoulen ...
Black Rock ... Canton U. ...
Black Rock ... Chusan Is. ...
t Black Rock ... .Vlergui Is. ...
Black Rock ... Queda
Black Rock Reef, Banca, E. ...
Black Rocks ... Moluccas
Black Rocks ... Sapv Strait ...
Blackwall I. ... Chusan Is. ...
f Blair Harbour, Malaya, E.
Blaken-matle ... >ingapore Str
I Blenheim Shoal Malacca Strait
*Bloseville Port VVaygiou
Bluff Cape
Bluff Pomt
Bluff I'oint
Blurt" Head
Boat Rock
Boat Rock
Boat I.
Ava C.
Canton R.
China, S.
Canton R.
China, S.
China, S.
Canton R.
16
106
377
444
37
230
192
607
665
448
314
269
240
.. 618
14, 13
,. 37.-.
.. 367
.. 399
.. 2(11
.. 309
,. 401
792
BOT
Bobeck Pulo ... Sumatr.i, W. 100
Rocca Tigris ... Canton R. ... 403
•■Boegeroens ... Celebes, S. 595,596
tBoeleComba ... Celebes, S. ... 593
Bold Promontory Mergui Is. ... 40
*Bobna Cape ... Luzon, W. ... 494
Bolonjio Is. ... Aracan ... 7,8
Bolt Head ... Australia ... 744
Bombay ... Hindoostan,W.773
*Bombay Shoal China Sea ...338
♦Bombay Shoal Palawan, W. 488
fBomigels. ... Borneo, E. 557
fBominy Harbour Chittagong ... 5
IJompoka I. ... Nicobars ... 57
Bon Point ... Sumatra E. ... 205
Bone Roaster ... .Tapan Is. ... 509
*BongoBay&I. Mindanao, S. 564
+Boni Bay ... Celebes, S. ... 597
»Boni I. & Road Waygiou, N. 614
Bonin-sima Is.... North Pacific 510
*Bonoa, I. ... Ceram,W. ... 697
Bonthian Bay Mtn., Celebes, S. 592,
593
*Boo Is. ... Moluccas ... 606
Booar Pulo ... Banca ... 191
Boobooang ... Sumatra, W. 77
Boobooan I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 569
Booboon, Oojong Sumatra, W. 76, 77
*Booby I. ... Torres Strait 736
Booby Rock ... New Ireland 752
*Booby Shoal ... New Ireland 731
*Booca Bay ... Rotto I. ... 682
Booket Qually . Sumatra, W. 76
Bookit Battoo ... Sumatra, N. 226
Bookura Pulo ... Singapore Str. 266
Bool ... Celebes, N. ... 553
Boolang Bay ... Singapore Str. 272
tBooloosemah ... Sumatra, C. 83
Boongas Bay ... Sumatra, W. 99
Boong-oran Pulo Natunas ... 307
■[Boonting Is. ... Malacca Strait 233
Booroo Pulo, Sumatra, E. ... 207
Booroo, Tanjong, Malacca Strait 263
Boorong Is. ... Borneo, W ... 527
Boorong, Tanjong Borneo W. 542
Booronsa Caper Sapy Strait ... 665
Boot Bank ... Java Sea ... 5(59
Boot Reef ... Torres Strait 737
Borne ... Sumatra S. ... 136
*Borneo Cornl Is., Indian Ocean 131
Borneo Co. & Shoals, Borneo I. 486
Borneo E. ... Macassar Strait 553
Borneo Great R &Lake,Bornea, S.542
Borneo, N. ... Borneo I. ... 512
Borneo Road ... Borneo, W 525
*Borneo, S. ... Java Sea ... 541
*Borneo Shoals... China Sea ... 486
Borneo, R. & Town, Borneo W. 525
Borneo, W. ... China Sea ... 524
Borongo Is. ... Aracan ... 7, 8
Borroa Pulo ... Singapore Str. 273
*Boscawen Ca. ... New Hebrides 757
♦Botany Bay ... Au.stralia ... 721
BRO
*Botany I. ... New Caledonia 757
*Botel Tobago Xima. China Sea 502
tBotel Tobago Xima, Little, Ditto ib.
Bottle Is. & Reef, Malacca Strait 248
*Bougainville I.& Sh., Pacific Oc. 750
Bougainville Passage, Moluccas 605
♦Bougainville Reefs, S. Pacific Oc.733,
754
*Bougainville Strait, Solomon Is. 757
Bouka I. ... S Pacific Oc. ib.
Bonlus, Tanjong, Malacca Strait 263
*Boung-Quiona Ca. Hainan, W. 347
♦Bounty Is. ... S. Pacific Oc. 771
Bourbon I. &Storms,IndianOcean772
*Bouro I.cScBay, Moluccas 696, 604
Bourou ... Sumatra ... 66
Bourne, East ... England, S.... 786
*Bouton Dome... Pulo Bouton . 231
*Bouton E. Point, Bouton I. ... 598
*Bouton I. ... Celebes, E. ... ib.
*Bouton, N.E. Point, Bouton I. 599
♦Bouton Pulo ... Malacca Strait 231
*Bouton S. Point, Bouton 1. ... 598
Bouton Strait ... Celebes, E. ... 599
*Bowen Port ... Australia ... 721
Bowen I. ... Australia ... ib.
Borne Village ... Keyser Bay... 136
*Boxeador Cape . Luzon, W. ... 496
Bradley Point... Port Jackson 723
*Brala Pulo ... China Sea ... 317
Brandy Wine Bay, Sumatra, W. 100
Branni Pulo ... Singapore Str. 269
*Brasse Pulo ... Achen Road 62, 64
Brazil Mount ... Azores ... 779
♦Breaker Point ... China, S. ... 422
Breaksea Spit ... Australia ... 727
fBrebes Point ... NewGuinea,N. 629
Breda Bank ... China Sea ... 330
Brekat Mountain, Caspar Strait 185
Brekat, Tanjong, Banca 184, 191
fBrewer's Droogte, Java Sea ... 158
Brewers Strait, Sumatra, E. 226,207
*Brill Shoal ... Celebes Sea 588, 592
tBringen Pulo . Sumatra, W. ... 103
Brisbane Passage, Martaban ... 26
fBrisbane River, Australia ... 727
Bristly Point ... Jloluccas ... 695
Bristow Rock, S. Pacific Ocean 771
Britain, New, S. Pacific Ocean 751
Britannia Bay ... Sapy Strait ... 666
British Channel . England ... 781
Brittany C. ... France ... 784
*Britto Shoal ... China S. ... 328
Broadway ... Canton R. ... 373
Broadway River, Canton ... 375
*Broken Bay ... Australia ... 724
Broken I. ... Mindanao, S. 562
Broken I. ... Chusan Is. ... 448
Broken Is. ... Aracan R. ... 8,7
Broken Point ... Ava C. ... 15
tBrother Hills ... Ava C. ... 16
Brothers ... Andamans ... 53
Brothers ... Canton R. ... 383
CAB
Brothers ... China Sea 322, 324
Brothers .:. China, S. ... 365
Brothers ... China, S. ... 424
Brothers ... Hainan 35U, 354
Brothers ... Junkseylon ... 44
•Brothers ... MalaccaStr. 228,262
♦Brothers ... Near Amoy... 426
Brothers, Three, Durian Strait 206,
210
♦Brothers, Two... Sumatra, E. ... 160
Brothers, Four . Malacca ... 257
Brougham Shoal, Aracan C ... 13
Brouwer Sand... Sunda Strait . 148
f Brouwer Shoals, Sumatra, E. 162, 182
Brown Rock ... Ava C. ... 15
♦Brown Range ... N.PacificOcean 761
Brown Passage, Barrier Reefs 749
Brunsw ick Rock, Canton River 408
Bruny Cape, VanDiemenL. 709,710
Bruxe I. ... Martaban ... 25
Bubon Point ... Sumatra, W. . 77
Bubon R., Malacca Str. 224, 227
Bucalisse Pulo . Sumatra, N... 226
fBuccleugh Shoal, Wagiou . . 614
*BuckinghamshireShoals,ChinaSea485
fBuffaloI. ... Cochin China 344
tBufFalo Point ... Sumatra, W. 110
*BufFalo Rocks . Ava, W. ... 16,15
Buffalo Rock ... Singapore Strait267
Buffalo Rocks . Sourabaya ... 649
Buffalo's Horn . Waygiou ... 613
Buffalo's Nose . Chusan Is. ... 438
Buffalo's Is. ... Mindora Sea . 574
Buga I. ... Martaban R. 25
BuggesBay ... Celebes ... 597
-f-Buglas I. ... Philippines ... 572
Bullock's Head I.,Canton R. ... 380
Bulu China R. . Sumatra, N. 224
•j-Bunikin I. ... Java 586, 646
Bunder Anchorage, Chittagong R. 3
Bunga Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 120
Bunwoot I. ... Mindanao, S. 564
Buoy Rock ... Cochin China 341
Burias I. ... Phillipines ... 522
Burnet Harbour, Van Dieraen L. 713
Burrong Village, Sumatra ... 221
Buroo Pulo ... Achen Is. ... 62
Buruncan Point, Mindora, W. 576
Bushby L ... Mergui Is. ... 39
Busvagon I. ... Calamianes ... 578
Button ... Borneo, W. ... 529
Button Hill ... .Tava, N. ... 648
Button I. ... TavayR. ... 30
Button Rock ... Borneo, S. ... 547
Button Rock ... Cochin China 339
j-Button ... Sunda Strait... 148
Buzzard Bay ... Australia ... 743
Byron Cape ... Australia ... 727
Cabarctta Point Canton R. ... 379
CAM
CabbageTreePoint, New S.Wales 721
Cabicunga ... Luzon, W. ... 496
*Cabossa 1. ... Bengal Bay... 32
Cabra I. ... Nicobars ... til
Cachao City ... Tonking R.... 348
Cagayan C. ... Luzon, N. ... 497
*Cagayanes L ... Sooloo Sea ... 572
♦Cagayan Sooloo, Sooloo Sea ... 516
Cahayaga L ... Philippines ... 521
Cairn-cross ... New S. Wales 747
•Cajeli Bay ... Bouro N. 696, 604
Cakke ... Rusa Raji I. 671
CalabatBay ... Banca, N. ... 193
•Calagouk I. ... Martaban C. 27, 28
tCalamianes Group, Mind. Str. ... 578
fCalamianesIs. China Sea, 491,578,
581
*Calansoesoe Har. Bouton, E. ... 598
fCalantan R. ... Siam Gulf ... 318
*Calantiga Is. ... Sumatra, E. 205
Calap L ... Molucca ... 618
CalapanRoad ... Mindora, N. 522
•Calavite I. ... Mindora Straits577
*Calavite P. & Mount.Mindora I. 579
fCalayan I. ... Babuyanis 499
Calcutta Rock . Calam Str. ... 248
Caldera ... Mindanao, S. 568
Caledonia New, S. Pacific Ocean755
Callam False Str., Malacca Str. . 247
Callam Pulo, Malacca Strait, 247, 286
Callam R. ... Malacca ... 248
Callam Strait, Malac. Str. 247 to 250
Callao Ray. ... Cochin China 344
Callat Leheree, Junkseylon ... 46
Caloeohij I. ... Celebes Sea 588
Caloombyan Har. Sunda Strait 136
Caluja I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 572
fCalventura Rocks Ava. W. 15, 14
Camaman R. ... Malay C. ... 316
Camara I. ... Sapy Strait 666
Camarang, Oojong, Sumatra, W. 82
Cambay, Pulo ... Floras Str. ... 675
*Canibing Pulo... Timor Sea 664, 677
Cambir Bay ... Cochin China 343
fCambir Piilo ... Cochin China 342
Cambodia C. ... China Sea ... 323
f Cambodia R.&Town, Cambodia ib.
Cambridge Rock, China S, 386, 393
Cambuys Great, Java, N. ... 151
Cambuys Little, Java, N. ... ib.
*Carabyna I. ... Celebes, S. ... 597
Camden Shoal . Caspar Str. ... 185
"t Camel I. ... China Sea ... 304
Camel's Hump . China Sea ... ib.
tCamiguin 1. ... Babuyan Is. 499
Camiguin I. ... Midanao, N. 519
f C'amorta I. ... Nicobars ... 69
fCampbell Port . Andaman I. 51
♦Campbell I. ... S. Pacific Oc. 770
Camp Cove ... Port Jackson 723
Campong Arra I. Sumatra, W. 82
*Campou R. ... Sumatra, E. 227
f Camraigne Bay . Cochin China 337
VUL. II.
CAR
f Cam-ranh Bay . Cochin China 337
Camsing-moon Harbour, China,S.399
Cochin China 330
China E. ... 453
Siam Gulf ... 321
Balabac Straits 515
553
651
32
ib.
ib.
ib.
187
145
409
Cana
Canal, Imperial
fCancao R.
Candalaniar I. .
Candy Ca.
Cangayang I. .
Canister Great
Canister Little
■f Canister Western Bengal Bay
*Canisters ... Mergui, C. ...
Canning Rock . Gaspar Straits
Cantae I. ... Sunda Strait
*Canton Factories, Canton City
*Canton Packet Shoal, Moluccas 609
Celebes, N. .
Java Sea
Bengal Bay .
Bengal Bay .
*Canton Pulo
Canton R.
Cap
Cap Great
Cap L
Cap I.
Cap Pulo
Cap Rock
Cap Rock
Cap-sing-moon .
Cap Small
Cap & Feather .
Cap & Feather \.
fCapas Danat
Cochin China 344
China S. 373 to 412
Tavay R. ... 29
Sunda Strait 748
Aracan ... 9
Dryon Straits 209
Sumatra, W. 74
Sumatra, W. 81
Chusan, Is. 447,448
China, S. 384,383
Sunda Strait
Junkseylon .
Mergui C. .
China Sea .
China Sea .
148
45
39
317
ib.
ib.
ib.
89
712
493
702
617
319
Capas de ]\Ier
-f-Capas de Terre, China Sea ...
Capas Laut ... China Sea ...
Capechong Pulo, Sumatra, W.
Cape le Grand . Van Dienien L
*CaponesIs. & Point, Luzon, W.
Cappel Pulo ... Banda Is.
Capul I. ... Luconia, S. ...
+Cara, Pulo ... Siam Gulf ...
Cara-cara Pt. &• Shoals, Sumatra, W.
89, 90
Carang Assam . Bally ... 656
Carang Blusor Banca, N. E. ... 191
Carang Bram . Banca Str. ... 173
Carang Hoodjee, Banca Str. ... 174
Carang Malan Dooyong, Banca 193
Carang Malan Goonting, Banca ib,
Carang Maran Toole, Banca ... ib.
Carang Timbaga Shoal, Banca Str. 170
Carangua, Pulo . Sumatra, W. 86
Carapacho Point, Azores ... 779
Caravos Is. ... Philippines ... 574
iCarawang Pt. ... Java, N. ... 645
Caravallos Point, Luzon, W. ... 496
Carimata I. ... Java Sea ... 533
Carimata Passage, China Sea 305
Carimata Passage, Currents in 540
Carimata Passage, Java Sea ... 532
Curiraon, Great & Little, Durian Str.
207, 212
Carimon Is. ... ^Malacca Str. 262
*Carimon Java ... Java Sea ... 586
Carnom, Pulo . Siam Gulf ... 319
5 I
CEN 793
Cams Reef ... Pacific ... 731
Carolinas, Pacific Ocean ... 758
Car-moota I. ... Nicobars ... 59
Car-nicobar I. ... Bengal G. ... 55
Caran, Cape ... Malay Str. ... 247
Carong, Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 95
Carpenteria Gulf, New Holland N. 685
Carpenters Rocks, Java Head 144
Carrang Assem . Lombock, W. 656
CarrangByangByang,Sumatra,W.109
Carranglkan Chaby, Sumatra, W. ib.
Carrang Ikan Tando, Sumatra, W. ib.
CarrangLampooyang,Sumatra,W. ib.
f Carrang Lasarook, Java, N. ... 647
Carrang Lebar . Sumatra, W. 109
Carrang Pingan . Sumatra, W. 112
Carrang Tanjong, Lombock Str. 657
*Carteret Harbour, New Ireland 752
Casiguran Bay . Luzon, E. ... 523
Caskets ... British Channel 784
Cassanie I. ... Sumatra, W. 123
Cass, Pulo, Sumatra, W. 71, 72, 74
Cassee Pulo ... Sumatra, VV.99, 102
f Cassiqua, Pulo . Sumatra, W. 94
fCassey Pulo ... Sumatra, W. ib.
Cassoomba Village, Bally I. ... 659
Castelo Point ... Azores ... 781
Castle Peak ... Canton R. ... 385
*Castle Rotterdam, Macassar ... 550
Casuaris Bay ... Sunda Strait 144
Cat. I. ... Mergui C. ... 41
Catappang Pahse, Sumatra, W. 71,76
*Catanduanes I. . Luzon, E. ... 523
♦Catherine I. ... Carolinas ... 761
Catherine Is. ... Gillolo Pass 609
Catherine Reef . Montaran Is. 539
*Cato Bank, S. Pacific Ocean 730, 735
Cattle L ... Java Sea ... 587
Cattle I. ... LeatongG. ... 471
fCat wick Great... China Sea ... 334
Catwick Little . China Sea ... 333
Cau I. ... Cochin China 343
Cavalitian I. ... Luconia, N. ... 494
Cavallo Pulo ... IManila Bay 478
Cavallos I. ... Japan, S. ... 509
Cavern I. ... Mergui C. ... 40
Cavilli L ... Sooloo Sea ... 572
ICavite, ... ManilaBay 480,479
tCavnaian Point . Luzon, N. ... 496
f Cawoor ... Sumatra, W. Ill
Cayman Point... Luzon, W. ... 494
f Caytone ... Sumatra, W. 105
Cedar Passage ... Achen Is. ... 63
*Ceicer de Mer Pulo, China Sea 332
*Ceicer de Terre Pulo, China Sea 330
Celebes, E., Molucca Passage 583
Celebes S. ... Jloluccas ... 593
Celebes, N. ... Moluccas ... 559
Celebes, S. W. Pt. Salayer Strait 592
Celebes, W. ... Macassar Str. 558
Centre I. ... Pantar I. ... 677
*Centinel ... Andaman Is. 52
f Centinel, S ... Andaman Is. ib.
794
*Ceram I.
Ceram Laut
Ceylon I.
Chabrol Bay
tCharn-coIlao
cm
Moluccas 605, 698
Timor Sea ... 699
Indian Ocean 133
Waygiou I. 618
Cochin China 345
Cham-collao False, Cochin China ib.
♦Champion Ca. . Martaban ... 26
♦Chance I. ... Mergui, C. ... 43
Chang-cheun cham I., China, S. 371
Chang R. ... China, E. ... 434.
Chang too ... Chusan Is.449, 450
Channel, British, Entering do. 781
Channel Great . Sunda Strait 140
Chaou-seen ... Yellow Sea... 467
*Clwpel I. ... China, E. ... 426
*Cha-poo Harbour, China, E. ... 453
Charles I. Van Diemen L. ... 709
»Char!otte Bank, China Sea 325. 477
Chatham 1. ... Andaman I. 49
f Chatham Port . Andaman I. 51,49
*Chaw-chat I. ... Amoy H. ... 427
Cheechem Pulo . Sumatra, W. 73
Cheduba I & Town, Aracan 10, 9
Chee-lap-cock Point, Canton R. 383
*Che-fow-taou Cape, China, E. 461
Cheih-seu I. ... Amoy H. ... 428
Chellaka Pulo ... Caspar Str. 184
Chellung Point & Village, Sumatra, 75
Chellung Village, Sumatra, W. ib.
Chelsieu Reef ... China, S. ... 424
Chenco Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 102
*Cheribon Mount&Town, Java, N. 646,
645
Chermai Mountain, Java 646, 645
Cherry I. ... S.Pacific Ocean 759
Chi-chowls. ... China, S. ....380
Chik-hok I. ... China, E. ...436
China Buckeer . Pegu 20, 22, 23
China Buckeer False, Pegu ... 24
China Coast, S. China Sea ... 363
China Coast, E. 431, 459
China Sea, China C. 287 to 336
China Sea Currents ... 290
China Sea Gales ... ib.
China Sea Monsoons, &c. ... 287
China Sea Passages 292 to 302
China Sea Shoals ... 482
China Tanjong . Java Sea ... 656
China Sea ... Tyfoongs ... 288
*Chin-chewBay, China, E. ... 432
Chin-chin Pulo . Achen Is. ... 64
Chin-chin R. ... China, S. ... 427
Chin-chow ... China, S. ... 305
Ching Reef ... China, S. ... 425
Ching-hae-heen, China, S. ... 422
Ching-hai ... China, S. ... ib.
*Ching-hae ... China, E. 448, 451
Chin-Keang ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Chinna, Tanjong, Sumatra 1 14, 136
Chino Bay ... China, S. ... 421
Chino ... China, S. ... 366
Chitvam R. ... Tsiompa ... 328
tChittagong ... Bengal Bay 1 to 5
COC
Chittagong River Bengal Bay... 4
Chook-chow ... China, S. 388, 395
Choo-keang R. China, S.373to412
Choo-kea-tseen, Chusan Is. 443 to 450
tChoumay Ca. ... Cochin China 347
tChouvay Ca. ... Cochin China ib.
fChowry I. ... Nicobars ... 57
Chrichton I. ... Mergui C. ... 40
fChristie I. ... Mergui C. ... 42
*Christoval (San) Pacific Ocean 750,
757
*Chueng-chow ... China, S. ... 415
fChuen-pee ... Canton R. ... 403
Chuen-poon-chow, China, S. ... 416
*Chub-san I. ... Petchelee G. 459
*Chui-yeng ... Corea ... 471
Chulwan Pagoda China, S. ... 424
Chung-chow ... Canton R. ... 389
*Chung-chow ... China, S. 379,426
Chungteao ... Chusan Is. 447, 448
Chung-pih-shan, Chusan Is. ... ib.
Chung-yue I. ... China, S. ... 384
*Church Rocks . Ava, W. ... 14
*ChusanI. ... China, E. 44.3,450
*Chusan Is. ... Northern Group
China, E. ... 452
*Chusan Is., China, E. 437 to 452
Chusan Rock ... Petchelee G. 464
Ciecorang Pt. ... Sunda Point 147
tCin Point ... Siara Gulf ... 319
Circular Head, Van Diemen L. 718,
717
*Circular Reef . Pacific Ocean 753
Circular Shoal . Malacca Road 255
*Cirencester'sSandBank,Billiton,E.
535
*Cirencester Shoal, Ditto ditto ib.
Clappa Pulo ... Sunda Strait . 137
Clappers I. ... Sumatra, W. . 121
*Clapps I. ... Sumatra, W. . ib.
fClara I. ... Bengal Bay . 39
fClark I. ... Bass Strait . 719
*Claro Babuyan I., China Sea ... 499
Claudines Entrance, Torres Strait737
Claudine Reef, S. Pacific Ocean 732
Clay I. ... Dryon Straits 208
Clear Ca. ... Ireland ... 781
Clements Strait Billitonl. 194,181,
305
Clement Shoal, St.,CarimataPass536
Cleung, Pulo ... Sumatra W.... 72
Clough Reef ... Andamans N. 49
Cliff I. ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Clin, Tanjong, . Malacca ... 255
Cloddy Is. ... Sumatra, W. 89
*Clove Is. ... Moluccas ... 700
Clunie I. ... Borneo Coral Is. 131
Coal I. & River, New S. Wales 725
Cobra I. ... Malacca Strait 263
Cochin China, . China Sea ... 336
Cockburn I. ... Australia ... 747
Cockburn Reef, Ditto ditto 746
Coco Is. .„ Pitt Passage . 602
COW
*Coco-rutI. ... New Ireland... 752
*Coco-nut Point, Gillolo, S. ... 607
Coco-nut Point, Sumatra, S. . 138
*Coco Great I. . Andaman, N. 47
Coco Pulo ... Junkseylon ... 45
■f-Coco Little I. . Andaman, N. 47
Cocob Pulo, Malacca Strait 262,285
Coco I. ... Baseelan ... 567
*Cocos Is. ... Indian Ocean 131
*Cocos Is., Sumatra, W. 117, 22, 23
*Codocopuei I. . N. Pacific Oc. 632
Coffin Ca. ... Celebes, N. ... 559
Coffin Hill ... Java, N. ... 648
*Collao-Ray I. ... Cochin China 344
fCollao-hanne ... Cochin China 346
Colean, Tanjong, Banca ... 173
Collier Rock ... Sunda Str. ... 139
Colombia Reef . New Zealand 764
ColongStr. ... Malacca ... 247
fColowyPulo ... Banca, E. 190,191
Col. Paterson I. New Caledonia 756
Combado I. ... Token Besseys 601
*Comba Pulo ... Ombay, N. ... 675
Combermere Bay Aracan C. ... 9
fComodo I. ... Sapy Strait ... 664
*Concordia Fort, Timor I. ... 681
Condore Little . Ditto ditto ... 324
*Condore Pulo . China Sea 324,322
Condul I. ... Nicobars ... 61
Coney I. ... Balabac Strait 515
Coney I.' Singapore Strait 266, 285
Conical Cape ... Ava. Co. ... 16
Conical Mountain, Cochin China 341
Cook Port ... Statenl. ...768
Cooley Pole ... China Sea ... 393
*Copang Bay ... Timor I. ... 681
*Coquille Point . Waygiou I. ... 613
Cordelia Rock . China, S. ... 393
*Corea ... Yellow Sea ... 467
Cork ... Ireland ... 782
Corkers ... Chusan Is. .. 438
*Cornwallis Fort, Prince of Wales I.
233
*CornwallisIs. Pacific Ocean . 761
f Cornwallis Port, Andaman Great 49
*CornwallisShoal, PacificOcean . 630
Cornwall, Ca. ... Australia ... 748
fCoron I. ... Mindora Str. 578
f Coronge Island, AvaC. ... 16
Corooman Is. ... Borneo, N. ... 525
Corregidor I. ... Manila Bay... 478
Corrientes C. ... Africa, E. ... 774
Conor I. ... Pellew Is. ... 633
*CorvoI. ... Azores ... 778
*Cou-cock I. ... China, S. ... 372
Cou-mong Harbour, CochinChina 342
Coupang ... Timor N. ... 681
Courtay ... Sumatra, N. . 222
Cow and Calf . Bengal Bay ... 46
Cow-chow ... China, S. ... 398
Cow-ee-chow & Pass, China, S. 390
Cowl. ... Tsiompa 328,329
Cow-loon &Bay, China, S. ... 413
DAS
Cow-ow Point . Macao Road .
Coxe Bazar ... Chittagong C.
Crab I. ... Cambodia R.
Craggy I. ... Bass Strait ...
Craw Tanjong . Ceram
f Crawford Shoal, Ava C.
•Crawford Shoals, China Sea ...
•Crescent Chain, Ditto ditto ...
*Crockatoa, Sunda Str. 140, 138,
Crompa Is. ... Celebes Sea ...
fCrooe ... Sumatra, W.
Cross Har. ... Nicobars
Crouching- Tiger, Passage, China
Cruzcool
Cua-be
Cua-lop R.
Cuckold Point,
f Cuddalore Ca.
Cumberland Is.
*Cumbrian Reef,
Cung-cung-taou,
Cup-chee-sen .
Current 1.
*CurrentI.
Currents in, Cari
Ditto
Ditto
Curtay
tCuyo Grand
Cuyos Is.
CyclopsInnerRou
Cygne Port, Van
Cypress Point ...
Chittagong ...
Cochin China
Tsiompa
Chittagong ...
N. Poggy I. ...
N. SouthWales
China Sea ...
Group, China, E
China, S.
Celebes, E. ...
N. Pacific Oc.
mata Passage
China Sea ...
Sumatra
Sumatra, N —
Mindora Sea
Ditto ditto ...
te, Torres Strait
Diemen Land
Aracan
396
1,4
323
719
698
16
484
358
179
670
112
5S
E.
451
1
339
328
3
126
744
602
.461
421
584
632
540
290
67
222
574
ib.
743
711
6
Da-bia
*Dagon Pagoda,
Dahway, Oojong,
Dalawan Bay ...
Dalhousie Fort .
DallaR.
*Dalrymple Port,
Dalupiri I.
Damnia I.
*Damme I.
Damnier Islands,
*Dampier Strait,
Dana, Pulo
Danes I.
Danger I.
Danger I.
Danger Point .
♦Dangerous Reef,
Daniels I.
*D'Apres Shoal .
Dansborg Bay .
Dapour Pulo ...
*Darnley I.,
Dasee Strait ...
Pacific
Australia
Carolinas Is.
Corea C.
Chittagong C.
China S.
Java, N.
Torres Strait
Lingin, S. ...
DIS
Date I. ... Cochin China 343
Datoo Mandayee Is., Borneo S. 542
Dato Pulo ... Ditto, ditto... 541
-f-Dattoo Pulo ... China Sea 303,527
Dattoo, Tanjong Borneo, W.... 526
Datto, Tanjong Sumatra, E. ... 205
*Davey, Port Van Diemen Land 707
" " 763
630
523
42
618
767
220
508
D.
Cochin China 340
Rangoon ... 21
Sumatra ... 69
Balabac Bay .514
Kyouk Phyoo 9
Ava, S. "19 to 24
Van Die. La. 715
China Sea 498,521
Timor Sea .. 686
Timor Sea ... ib.
Moluccas ... 607
New Brit. 616,628,
641
Timor Sea ... 683
Canton R. ... 409
Providence Is. 630
761
730
761
470
6
425
151
736
200
*David Clark I
*David Is., St.
Davilican Bay
Davis I.
Deception I.
Deception I.
Deep Bay
Deep Bay
Pacific Ocean
Ditto ditto .,
Luzon, E.
Mergui
Pitt Passage
S. Shetland
Sumatra, N.
Loo-choo Is.
Deepwater Point, Callam Strait 248,
249
Deepwater Point, China S. ... 366
Deepwater Point, Dryon Strait .212
Deepwater Point, Singapore ... 270
Deerl.ii- Passage, Chusanls. 444,443
DUR
795
* Defence For
Delian I.
tDelisle Is.
*Deliverance Ca.
* Delhi R & T. .
*Delli I.
Denneloang R.,
Sumatra, N.
Timor, N.
Celebes, S.
D'Entrecasteaux Ch.V.Die.La.
D'Entrecasteaux Is. Pacific
D'Entrecasteaux Str. Ditto ditto
•De Peyster Is., . Pacific Ocean
Deptford Rock .
Derwent R.
Deval Bay
Devil's Rock ...
De Witt Mount .
Dgiay Bay
*Dhaulle Shoal .
Diah
*Diamond I.
* Diamond Point,
Diana Rock ...
Bouro Bay ... 696
Calamianes ... 578
Mergui A rchip. 43
S. Pacific Oc. 751,
757
224
679
593
708
751
708
762
654
713
598
675
707
338
483
69
Bally Strait ...
VanDiemenL.
Bouton I.
Solor Strait ...
VanDiemenL
CochinChina .
China Sea ...
Sumatra, W. .
Ava S. 17, 19
Sumatra, N.222.220
Malacca Strait 255
*Diana Bank, S.Pacific Ocean ... 733
Diana Shoal ... China Sea ... 308
Luzon, N. 500,498
191
766
495
51
679
236
424
569
713
131
302
713
Didicas Rocks,
fDiedsrika Shoal
Diego Ramirez,
Dile Point
f Diligent Strait
*Dilly
fDinding Pulo ..
Dioyu Reef
Dipoolool Is. .,
Direction Ca. ..
Direction I.,
*Direction 1.
Banca I
Cape Horn ...
Luzon, W. ...
Andaman, E.
Timor, N. ...
.. Malacca St. ...
... China S.
... Sooloo Sea ...
... VanDiemenL.
Borneo Cor. Isles
,.. China Sea ...
* Direction ]\Iount,V. Diemen L.
Dirk Gherritz Land, SouthernOc. 766
*Discovery Eastern Ba.,BillitonE. 536
♦Discovery Western Ba. Ditto do. ib.
•Discovery Reef, China Sea ... 483
5 I 2
*Discovery Reef, Carimata Pass 536
Discovery Rock, Macclesfield Str.
182,183
♦Discovery Shoal, China Sea ... 359
Diviran I. ... Calamianes ... 578
Djimaja I. ... Anambas ... 305
Dobbo ... PuloLaut Is. 689
Docan Pulo ... Banca, N. 195, 198
Doddington Rock, Africa, S. ... 774
China Sea ... 200
. Timor Sea ... 677
. GilloloPassage 611
. Cochin China 340
. VanDiemenL. 713
Sumatra, E. 161,162
. Dryon Straits 208
. IMerguiArchip. 40
Mergui 38, 41
Dogger Banks
*Dog L
DoifL
Doi-Moil.
Dolomieu Bay
Dolphin Rock,
Dolphin I.
Dolphin Is.
Dolphin's Nose,
tDolphin's Nose .
*Domar Pulo ...
*Dombuck Point
fDomea R.
fDomel I.
fDominos
Doncan Pulo ..
*Donda Ca.
*Dondrekin I. ...
fDongan Point
Dooa Pulo
Dory Harbour, New Guinea, N. 629
Moluccas ...
702
China Sea ...
305
Aracan
5
Tonking Gulf
348
Bengal Bay .
38
China Sea ...
199
Dryon Str. ...
209
Celebes, W. .
552
Borneo, E. ...
556
Mindora, W.
679
Sumatra, W.
82
VanDiemenL. 713
Borneo, W. . 629
Martaban C. . 27
Torres Str. 736,740
China Sea ... 305
Double Bay
Doublel.
fDouble I.
-j-DoubleL
Doubtful Reef .
DourgaStr. ... N.Guinea ...
Douw Pulo ... Timor Sea ...
Dover, England, S. 786,
Downs, England, S. ib.
Dragon's Nose . Canton R. ...
Dromedary Ca. & Mt. Australia
Drowned I. ... Ava
*Drummond Is. . China Sea ...
Dryon, Great ... Sumatra, E. .
Dryon Little ... Ditto ditto ...
689
683
787
ib.
378
720
17
358
206
ib.
*Dryon Str., Ditto ditto 204 to 217
Dry Rock ... Canton River 382
*Dry Sand Bank, Panay, W. .
Dua Pulo ... Sumatra, AV.
Dubus Fort ... N.Guinea .
Duffen I. ... Sunda Strait
tDuffer L ... Flores, N. .
Duffield Passage, Chusan Is. .
Duke of York I., New Britain
Dumalan ... Mindanao, S.
*Duncan Passages, Andamans
Dune I.
Dungeness
Dunnose
Duo Bolod
*Duperrey Port,
*Durand Reef ...
Durian False ..
Cochin China
England, S. ..
Isle of Wight
Sooloo Sea ..
Waygiou I. ..
Sumatra, E.
Sumatra, E.
382
. 574
95,97
. 691
. 151
,. 672
. 439
. 752
. 568
52,54
339
,. 786
ib.
568
613
760
206
796
ELP
Durian, GreatiS:
Durian Point ..
Duvian Strait ..
Durrstedc Fort
•D'Urville Port
Dutch Bay
Diitcli Channel,
Dutch Gut
Dwaai Bay
*D"'aakler I. ..
Dymoke Shoal,
Little, Sumatra 206
. Sumatra, W. 90,91
. Sumatra 204to217
. Moluccas ... 702
. Waygiou, I.... 613
. Amboina, I.... 700
BataviaRoad . J 52
Solor Str. 674, 675
. Bouton, E. ... 598
. Borneo, S. ... 547
BorneoCor.Isles 132
E.
EahMoodoong... Sumatra, W. 80
Eang Point ... Lingin I. ... 199
Ear Island ... China, E. ...459
fEast & W. Chan, ftlalacca St. 245,286
East Bourne ... England, S. . 786
*East Brother ... Hainan 350,354
Eastern Bank ... Dryon Straits 206
Eastern Bank ... Malacca Strait 245
•j- Eastern Bank ... Romania Reef 279
Eastern Chanl., Dryon Straits 210
Eastern Channls., Batavia Road 155
♦Eastern Fields, . TorresStr. ... 735
Eastern Grove . Pegu R. 20 to 23
Eastern Passages to China ... 542
EasternReef.BataviaRoad 165 to 157
East Foreland, Mergui Archipel. 40
EastHarb. ... Keeling Is. ... 132
East I. ... Alloc Strait . 676
East I. ... Borneo, V/. ... 529
East I. ... Andaman Great 49
East I. ... Moluccas ... 696
♦East I. ... Natunas ... 310
*EastLondon Reef, China Sea ... 484
fEdaml.&Chan.jBata. Rd.l5I to 157
Edam I. ... Malacca Strait 230
Eddystone ... British Channel 784
♦Eddystone ... VanDiemenL. 707
•Edible Plant City, China, E. ... 462
Eee-chovv ... China Sea ... 393
Eee-moon ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Eeeyoo Pulo ... Sunda Strait . 137
Een I. ... ftloluccas ... 611
tEfbe I. & Harb., Ditto ... 617
Eight Is. ... China Sea ... 507
•Ejow Peak ... Sumatra, S. 139
Elephant I. Chusan Is. 440, 443, 444
*Elephant I. & Har., Bengal Bay 41
Elephant Hill ... Java N. ... 647
Elephant Mountain, Sumatra, N. 221
Elejihant Mountain, Tonking R. 348
t Elephant Mount, Queda ...230
*ElephantGrove&Pag., PeguR. 20,22
Elephant Point, Aracan 5, 1, 3, 21
*Elizabeth Reef, Pacific Ocean 730
"Ellice Group ... Ditto ditto ... 762
Elliot Is. ... LeatongG. ... 470
Elliot Mount ... Australia ... 725
Elphinston Bay, Celebes, E. . 584
FAT
*Embleton Shoal, GasparStr. ... 185
Embocadero ... Luconia, S. ... 521
Endeavour R. ... Australia ... 744
Endeavour Str. Torres Str. ... 743
Ende ... Flores I. 667, 668
*Enderby I. ... Southr. Ocean 770
Enderby Is. ... Pacific Ocean 760
Engaling, Pulo . Sumatra, W. 74
*Engano Ca. ... Luzon, N. ... 497
*Engano I., Sumatra, W. 129 to 131
England Pulo ... Gillolo, E. ... 608
English Channel — entering the 781
English Cove ... New Ireland... 751
Enkhuysen I. ... Batavia Road 151
*EnkhuyserSand Billiton,E. ... 536
Entrance I. ... MacquarrieHar.706
*Entrance Point, Banca, E. ... 181
Epervier ... Cochin China 341
EpooCheechem.Pulo, Sumatra, W. 73
Epoo Rahnoo, Pulo,Sumatra,W. ib.
tErakong I. & Har.,Pellew Is. ... 633
Ernestaiount ... TorresStr. 736,740
*Erronan 1. ... New Hebrides 759
Esperance Bay, Van Diemen L. 711
*Espiritu Santo .
Samar, E.
... 521
*Esprit St. Is. ...
China Sea
... 303
*Esprit Shoal, St.
Ditto ditto
... 361
Eu-ho River ...
China, E.
... 463
f Europe Shoal . . .
China Sea
... 304
*Eye I.
Gillolo, E.
... 611
Fabian R. St. ... Luzon, W. ... 495
Factie, Tanjong, Borneo, W. 528,529
Fai-fo R. ... Cochin China 345
Fair Chan. Bank, Malacca Strait, 260
*Fairlie Rock ... JavaSea ... 182
*Fairwa3' Ledge, Gillolo Passage 607
Fakiers Tree ... Chittagong R. 4
Fakiers Rocks . Aracan R. ... 7
Falcon I. ... Australia .. 743
Falkland Is. ... Southern Oc. 765
Fall L ... Chusan Is. ... 450
Falmouth Bank, Mindora Sea... 575
False BintangHill 278
False Cape ... New Guinea... 689
False China Buckeer, Pegu ... 24
False Harbour . Nicobars ... 58
False I. ... Cheediiba ... 12
False River ... Sumatra, E... 173
Famine Port . . . Magellan Str. 768
Fan-Io-kong ... China, S. ... 419
Fan-shee-ak I.&Chan., Canton R.
402, 400
Fan-shee-ak I. . China, S. ...367
Fansyack Chan., Canton R. ... 402
Fan-tseao ... Amoy Harb. 430
Farm Cove ... Australia ... 726
*Farnham I. ... Carolinasls. 761
Farquhar Group, Pacific ... 733
Father and Son Is., Mergui C. 39
FOO
Fattie, Tanjong, Borneo ... 528
Faux I. ... Gillolo Pass. . 610
*FayaII. ... Azores ... 779
Feather ... Mergui C. ... 39
*FeadIs. ... Newlreland... 752
Feejee Is. ... S. Pacific Oc. 759
*Felix Ca. ... Sumatra.W. 79, 78
Feou-kieou I. ... Hainan ... 353
Fernando St Point, Luconia, W. 495
*Ferraria Point ... Azores ... 780
Firando Port ... Japan Is. ... 510
First Bar ... Canton R. ... 408
* First Point ... Sumatra ... 169
First Point ... Java, W. ... 144
Fisherman I. ... China, S. ... 417
Fisher I. ... Chusan Is ... 449
Fisher I. ... China Sea ... 506
Fisher I. ... Dampier Str. 618
Fisher I. ... Malacca Strait 255
Fisher I. ... Tonking Gulf 348
■f- Fisher Is. ... Cochin-China 339
Fish Harbour ... Mergui C. ... 41
Fish Pass ... China, S. ... 365
*Five Fathoms Bank, Java Sea... 591
fFive Fathoms Bank, NewGuinea,N.
630
Five Fathoms Bank, Sumatra, E. 159
Five Is. ... Mergui ... 41
Five Is. ... Rhio Strait ... 202
fFive Is. ... Andaman Grt. 52
Five Is. ... China, S. ... 370
■f-Five Mile Bluff, Port Dairy mple 715
Flag-staff Pt., Kyouk-PhyooHarb. 9
*Flat I. ... Andaman Great 51,53
Flat I Cheduba ...7,12
Flat I Mindanao, S. 562
*Flat I Natunas ... 309
Flat I AUoo Strait... 676
Flat I Sunibawa, N. 644
fFlat Point ... Borneo. S. ... 541
*Flat Point ... Ceram, N. ... 699
*Flat Point ... New Guinea,N. 629
*Flat Point ... Sumatra, S. 1 13,
68, 136
*Flat Rock ... Bengal Bay... 54
Flats Canton R.' ... 375
Flattery Ca. ... Australia ... 744
Fletcher Hayes Str., Arracan 10, 11
Fleurieu Bay ... V. Diemen La. 715
Flinders Group Australia ... 744
Flinders Point, Van Diemen La. 717
Flores Head .. Flores I. ... 672
*Flores I., N. Atlantic Ocean 778
*Flores I. ... Timor Sea ... 667
*Flores Strait ... Ditto 672 to 675
Flores Haad ... Flores I. ... 667
* Fluted Cape ... V.DiemenLa. 712
Fokai Point ... China, S. ... 417
Folkstone ... England, S. ... 787
Foo-raun ... Canton R. ... 404
Foong-ky-chy I. China, S. ... 364
Foo-sun I. ... China, E. ... 451
Foo-too-shan I., Chusan Is. 440, 439
GAE
Foreland Lights, England, S.... 787
*Formigas Rocks, Azores ... 781
Formosa Bank... Malacca Strait 258,
285
Formosa Banks . China Sea ... 504
♦Formosa I. ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
♦Formosa Mt. & R., Malacca Str. 258
Forrest Cape ... Waygiou I. ... 613
♦Forrest Str. & Pass., Mergui C. 39
f Forsaken I. ... Flores, N. ... 672
Forsaken I. ... Sunda Strait 141
•Forth Shoal ... China Sea 482, 484
Fortune I. ... Luzon, W. ... 478
f Fortune 1., Little, Sumatra, S. 113
Fotow-moon ... China, S. ... 413
Fou-chow ... China, E. ... 433
tFoulI. ... Ava, W. ... 13
Foul I. ... Dampier Str. 619, 622
Foul Point ... Galowa Strait 627
*Four Brothers... Java Sea ... 651
Four Brothers... Malacca ... 257
f Fourteen Is. Group, Pacific Oc. 761
fFourth Point ... Sumatra ... 172
Fourth Point ... Sunda Strait 147
iFowI. ... ... Gillolo Passage 610
Frailel. ... Manilla Bay... 478
Frailes Rocks ... Azores ... 779
Francklin Point, Singapore Str. 273
Frederic Hendric, Banca Strait 175
Fred. Hendric Pt., V.DiemenLa. 714
Fred. Henry Ca., Ditto ditto ... 712
Fred Henry I.... New Guinea . 689
♦Frederick Reef . S. Pacific Oc. 731
♦Freewill Is. ... Pacific Ocean 630
French L & River, Canton R. . 409,
412
French Passage, Waygiou I. ... 611
t French White Rock, China Sea 305
Freshwater Bay, Isle of White 785
Freshwater Bay, Borneo, W. ... 529
Freshwater I. ... Singapoi-e Str. 272
Freshwater Pt. & Bay, Cochin-
China 344
*Freycinet Ca. ... Waygiou I. . 614
Ditto Peninsula . V. Diemen La. 715
Friar's Hood ... Ceram, N. ... 698
Friar's Hood ... Sumatra, N. . 221
tFriar ... ... Java Head ... 144
Friars ... ... V. Diemen La. 708
Friars Rocks ... Azores ... 779
Friendly Is., S. Pacific Oc. 755, 759
•Friendship Shoal, China Sea ... 486
♦Frindsbury Reef, Pacific Ocean 762
tFuga I. ... China Sea 498, 497
♦Furneaux Is, ... Bass Strait ... 719
G.
*Gada Ponta del, Azores ... 778
Gadang ... Sumatra, W. . 88
♦Gadd Rock ... China Sea ...502
Gae-une-chow I., China, S. ... 386
GOA
Gages Harbour . Mergui C. ... 41
Gagnery R. & Bay, Tsiompa ... 327
tGagy I. ... Gillolo, E. ... 610
Gain-ba Point... Cochin-China 342
Galera Point, Mindanao, W. 519,572
Gallon I. ... Java Sea 651,650
Gallat Pulo ... Rhio Strait ... 202
♦Galong Bay & To., Hainan 350, 353
Galowa Strait, New Guinea, W. 627
Gamen I , Dampier Strait ... 618
*Gankeang Harb., Corea ... 470
Gaou Canton River 397
Gap I. ... ... Calamianes ... 578
Gap of Bigan ... Luconia, W... 495
Gap of Padaran, Padaran Ca.... 330
Gap of Solomague, Luconia, W. 495
Gap Rock ... China Sea ... 304
Gap Rock ...China, S. ...385
Gap Rock ... Sunda Strait 142
Garden I ... Port Dalrymple 716
Gardner Bank... Pacific ... 730
♦Gaspar I. ... Gaspar Straits 187
♦Gaspar Rico I .. Carolinas ... 761
Gaspar Strait, Banca, E. 181 to 197
♦Gasses Pulo ... Gillolo Pass. 606
Gasses Strait ... Ditto cfitto ... lb.
Gaya Pulo ... Borneo, W.... 525
«Geby I. & Harb., Gillolo Passage 610
Geefoo I. ... Canton R. ... 405
GeelvinkBay&Pt., New Guinea, N.
629
Geldria Shoal ... China Sea ... 200
Gen. Hewitt Rock, Gaspar Strs. 186
George Head ... Australia ... 723
George's I. ... St. Helena ... 776
George Ca. St.... Australia ... 721
George Ch. St... Nicobar Is. ... 60
George Ch. St... England, W. 782
*GeorgeCh. & Ca.St., New Ireland
751
♦George St. L ... Azores ... 779
George Town... PortDalrymple717
•George Town, Prince of Wales I.
232, 233
Georgia, S. ... Southern Ocean 764
Geravee ... Allass Strait... 662
Gerftsius Is. ... Moluccas ... 695
♦Geva I.& Town, Ava C. ... 14
Gilleesee ... Indian Ocean 660
Gilboang I. ... Bally Strait . 654
Gillibanta I. ... Sapy Strait ... 664
*GiIlolo, E. ... Gillolo Passage 608
Gillolo, S. Point, Gillolo Passage 607
*Gillolo I. ...Moluccas ...565
♦Gillolo Pass ...Ditto ...605,640
Ginetes, Peak of, Azores ... 780
Gingham ... Sumatra, N.... 221
Glass Houses ... New S. Wales 730
Glass Pulo ... Gaspar Strait 187
Glass Oojong ... Sumatra, W... 71
Glue, City ... China, E. ... 458
*Goa I. ... Ava ... 14
Goat I. ... Bashees ... 501
GRA
797
*Goat I.
Goat I. ... Sumbawa
Goat Is. ... Azores
Goat's Rocky Shoal, Banca
Luzon, W. 492, 478
664
779
Godwin Sand
*Goere,Tanjong
Goeve Great ..
Goeve Little ..
Golden Altar I.,
MartabanC. .
Sumatra, N.E.
Amoy Harb. .
Amoy Harb. .
Chusan Is. ...
191
26
222
426
ib.
451
66
Gillolo, E. ... 608
Achen Head 63,64
Moluccas ... 604
Macassar ... 550
China S. ... 425
Goobah, Oojong, Sumatra, W. . 69
Good Hope Ca. Winds, Africa,S.772
♦Good Hope Ca., China, S. ... 422
*Good Hope Ca., New Guinea,N.629
"752
787
515
146
137
ib.
*Golden Mountain, Sumatra, N.
Golonasy
Gomez Pulo
*Gomona 1.
Gon R.
Goo Reef
New Ireland
England, S. ..
Balabac Str.
Sunda Strait
Sunda Str. ..
Java
''Goodman I
Goodwin Sand
Goohooan I. ..
Gookoolang Pt.
Goondy, Pulo ..
Goondy Strait
*Goonong Apee,
*Goonong Apee, Sapy Strait
Goonong Calabat, Banca I.
Goonong Bedong, Natunas
Goonong Gaja... Java, N.
Goonong Ikan Point, Bally
Goonong Laoo . Java, N.
Goonong Ledang, Malacca
Goonong Malaloo, Banca N.
♦Goonong JIarass, Banca, N
Banda Is. 703, 702
... 665
... 193
... 307
... 647
... 655
... 149
... 256
... 193
189,191
-|- Goonong Myang, Borneo, W. ... 529
Goonong Raynay, Natunas ... 307
Goonong Ratoos, Borneo, S. ... 546
♦GoonongTellaR.&Bay,Celebes,E.683
Goonong Poolai, Malacca Strait 263
Goonting Point, Banca, N. ... 193
Gooty ... Borneo, E. 544, 556
Goram I. ... Banda Sea ... 699
f Gorda Point ... Mindanao, W. 572
Gordon R. ... VanDiemenL. 706
•Gotto Is.&Ca. . Japan Is. ... 509
•Governor Duncan Is., China Sea 358
Governor Str. . INIalacca ... 264
Gov.Farquhar's Group, PacificOc. 733
Gov. King I. ... NewCaledonia 766
Gough Pass ... Chusan Is. .,
Gowenen 1. ... Baseelan, S.
Gower Harbour, New Ireland
■"Govver I.
Gow-tow-chow,
Gow-tow-pyah
•Gozam I.
Grace Shoals ..
•Graciosa I.
Grafton Ca.
f Grafton I.
Graham Land
Grand Ladrone
Pacific Oc.
China, S.
Ditto
Banda Sea
Biliton, S.
Azores
Australia
Bashees
South Oc.
Canton R.
440
571
751
760
380
414
699
537
779
743
501
767
377
798
HAE
Grand, Cape le Van DiemenL. 712
Granville Ca. ... Australia ... 742
Great Barrier ... Ditto ditto ... 746
Great Bay ... Pulo Condore 324
Great Cap. ... Sunda Sir. ... 148
Great Channel . Sunda Strait . 140
Great Cove ... ^'an DiemenL. 711
Great-even I. ... China, E. ... 452
Great Fortune I. Sumatra, W. 123
Great Hog I. ... Java Sea ... 651
Great I. ... Bass Strait ... 719
Great Inner Ch., Singapore Str. 276
*Great Natuna . China Sea ... 306
Great Plain ... Cochin China 338
Great Passage . Andamans ... 53
Great Solombo . Java Sea ... 587
Great Star Fort, China Sea ... 417
Great Wall of . China ... 465
Green Ca. ... Australia ... 720
Green Head ... Van DiemenL. 714
*Green L ... Calamianes ... 578
t Green I. ... China Sea ... 303
Green I. ... Engano Bay . 129
Green 1. ... Lingin I. ... 201
Green L ... Lombock Str. 658
Green I. ... S. Pacific Oc. 770
Green L ... Pantar, N. ... 676
Green I. ... Philippines ... 522
Green L ... Port Dahyraple716
Green L ... VanDiemenL. 712
Green Is. ... China, S. ... 419
Green Point ...'China, S. ...369
Green Point ... Port Jackson 723
Greenwood I. ... Celebes Sea... 598
GregoryIs.&Chanl.,MerguiArchip.40
Greig Channel, Borneo, W. . 529
fGreig Shoal ... Ditto ditto ... 533
-j-Grequel Cape, Van Diemen La. 712
*Greyhound Straits, Molucs. ... 603
Griffin Rocks ... Sooloo Sea ... 567
*Grim. Ca. Van Diemen Land ... 705
Grimes Shoal ... Timor ... 683
Grisnez Cape ... France, N. ... 785
Grisse ... Java, E. ... 648
GrosvenorSh. ... Pitt's Passage 616
Guardhouse I. ... Chusan ... 443
*Guahan I. ... Marian Is. ... 636
*Guam I. ... Marian Is. 636,758
Guerin Cape ... Waygiou I 614
Guernsey L ... British Chan. 784
tGuilder Rock ... IMaiacca Strait 230
Guimaras I. ... Philippines . 573
Guinapac Rocks, Luzon, N. 500,498
Guinea ... Africa, W. ... 777
Gum Guma ... Sumatra, N. . 221
Gunga Sauga Rocks, Aracan 12, 13
Gunners Quoin . Java, E. ... 648
GutzlafF ... China, E. ... 457
Gwa I. ... Ava, C. ... 14
H.
. China, S. ... 388
. China, S. 422, 426
Hack-chow I. .
Hae-mun Bay
HEL
HaerlemL ... BataviaRd. 151,153
Hae-poug ... China, S. 385, 393
Hae-tanl. ... China, E. ...433
Hailing Harbour, China, S. ... 365
*Hai-ling-shan ... China, S. ... ib.
Hai-moon ... China, S. ... 422
*Hainan Head ... Hainan I. ... 352
Hainan I. ... China Sea 349to356
*Hainan South Point, Hainan I. 353
fHalfmoon Shoal, Bengal Bay ... 40
*Halfmoon Shoal, China Sea ... 487
*Halfway I. Torres Strait ... 736
Hall Group ... Corea ... 470
Hammond L ... Pitt Pass. ... 603
*HammondL ... Torres Strait . 736
Hang-chow Bay, China, E. ... 453
Hand Deep Bank,British Chan. 784
Hang-chow Bay ... ... 453
Hang-chow-foo,China,E.451,452,453
Hannah Shoal . Macassar Str. 554
Han-san ... Cochin China 346
Haou-tun ... Canton R. ... 407
HappoixR.&Pt., Cochin China 345
Haraucka I. ... Moluccas ... 701
Harbinger Reefs, Bass' Strait ... 718
Harbour I. ... Palawan ... 488
Harbour Rock... Amoy Harb. . 430
Hardy Is. New S. Wales ... 745
Hare's Ears. ... Peelas Is. ... 570
Haring Is. ... Macassar Str. 557
*Harlem Bay ... China, S. ... 417
Harrison I. ... Aracan, E. ... 11
Hart. L ... Bally, N. ... 654
Harvey Point ... China, E. ... 458
Hastings Harbour, Aracan ... 11
Hastings Harbour, Mergui 38,40,41
*Hastings I. ... Java Sea ... 653
Hastings I. ... Mergui I. 40, 41
Ha-tse I. ... Chusan Is. ... 443
HatteryN.&S.L Ombav, N. ... 675
Haul. ... CochinChina 343
Ha wan Road ... Formosa ... 505
*Haw-cheun I.& Rd., China Sea 369
Hawkesbury R., New S. Wales 725
*Haycock I. ... Calamianes ... 578
Haycock ... Karakita Is. . 561
Haycock ... JMergui ... 42
*Haycock I. N. ... Natunas ... 308
*Haycock LS. ... Natunas ... 310
*Haycock I. ... Pantar Strait . 677
*Haycock I. Xullas ... 603,677
Haycock ... j\Ianila Bay . . . 478
Haycock Mount, Malacca Str. . 230
Haycock Rock, Waygiou, N. . 613
Haycock ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
"t-Hayel. ... Mergui C. ... 43
Hea-ke-moon ... Chusan Is. ... 441
Heart of the Sea Rock, China,S. 386
Hebe Reef ... Bass Strait ... 716
Hebrides New . S. Pacific Oc. 757
Hecate Shoal . Java, E. ... 655
*Hegadis I. ... Celebes Sea . 598
Helena, St. L ... S. Atlantic Oc.776
HOO
*Helen Shoal ... N. Pacific Oc. 631
Helen's Rd. St. England, S. 786
Helmet ... LeatongG. ... 472
*Hen & Chickens Celebes Sea... 589
Henneker Point, Moluccas ... 695
Herbert I. ... Lieu-chew Is. 508
Herman ... Nicobars ... 59
Hermes Reef ... Pacific ... 771
♦Heroine Shoal . Billiton ... 537
Hervey Bay ... New S. Wales 727
fHeysan Is. ... China, E. ... 436
Hia-man-sue ... China, E. ... 426
Hiang-shan ... Canton R. ... 375
Hibbs Point ... Van Diem. L. 706
Hie-che-tchin Bay, China, S. 421,420
*High I. ... China Sea ... 506
tHigh I. ... Natunas 309, 310
High I. ... Pantar Strait 677
*High Peaked I... China, E. ... 471
*High Point ... Calamianes ... 577
High Pyramidal Rock, Sooloo
Sea 569
High Rock, ... Malacca Strait 238
High Saddle I... Carimata Pass 538
Hih-shan Is. ... China, E. ... 436
Hindostan Rock, Sunda Strait 142
Hindostan Shoal, Banca Strait 167
*Hing-hwa-foo Pagoda, China, E. 433
Hingie I. ... Ava ... 17
Hoa-cck-chow . China, S. ...387
*Hoa-pin-su I. ... Shina Sea ... 506
Hobart Town, Van Diemen La. 714
Ho-chow-moon . Chusan Is. ... 443
Hoc-kang Fort . Canton R. ... 375
Hoe-sing-pae Rock, China, S... 386
Hog I. ... Java Sea ... 651
Hog I. ... Salayer, W.... 595
Hog I. ... Sumatra, W. 118,117
Hog Is. ... Sumatra, S. . 139
Hogolew I. ... Pacific Ocean 762
*Hog Point ... Sumatra, S. 139,136
Hogs Is. ... Manila Bay... 478
*Hok-ling-shan Pagoda, China, E. 435
Holderness Rock, China, E. ... 437
fHolland Bank, China Sea 331, 475
Hom-co I. ... Cochin-China 343
Hom-cone I. ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Hone Cohe Bay, Cochin China 339
fllone Ngoai ... Ditto ditto ... 337
-j-Hone Noi ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Hong-how ... Canton R. ... 376
*Hong-Kong I. ... China, S. 390,384,
385,413
Hong-hai I. and Bay, Ditto 419, 420
Hong-shan R. ... Canton River 375
-j-Honimoa I. ... Moluccas ... 70]
Honne Gomme Bay, Cochin Chi. 340
Ho-ock-tow Pt. . Canton R. ... 375
Hoo-e-tow Bay . China, S. ... 431
Hoo-keangl. ... China, E. ... 434
Hoogermeer Shoal, Java, N. ... 647
Hoo-mun ... Canton R. ... 404
Hoorn Is. ... Java, N. ... 150
ING
Hoo-tow-mun ,,. China, S. ... 404
Hoo-tow-shan ... China, E. ... 425
Hopewell I. ... Java Sea ... 652
Hoppner Port... Staten I. ... 768
Horn Cape, Terra del Fuego ... 766
Horned Hill ... New S. Wales 740
*Horsburgh I,, Borneo Coral Isles 131
tHorsburgh Is Mergui Archip. 40
Horse-ear Point, China, S. ... 422
Horse of Willington, British Chan.
786
Horse Shoal ... Banca, N.E. 191
*Horse Shoe Shoal, S. Pacific Ocean
731
Hounds Bay ...
Sunda Strait
179
f Hounds Is.
Sumatra, S.
139
Houtsl.
Ditto ditto ...
140
^Howard Shoal...
Malay, E. ...
316
*Howe Ca.
New S. Wales
720
Howland Is. ...
Pacific Ocean
760
How-seu I.
Amoy Harb.
430
Hoya Point ...
Cerara, S. ...
698
fHue R.&City .
Cochin China
347
Hui-ling-san ...
China, S. ...
365
*HuniphreyI. ...
Pacific Ocean
763
Hump I.
Dampier Strait 619
Hundred Mountains, Borneo ...
546
f Hunter Port ...
New Ireland .
752
Hunter Port ...
New S.Wales
725
*Hunter Is.
Bass' Strait ...
718
*Hunter's Is, ..
Pacific Ocean
762
Huon I.
V. Diemen La
712
Huon River Ent
ranee, V. Diemen
Land
... ...
711
Hurlock Bay ...
Sumatra, W.
125
f Hutton Shoal ..
China Sea ...
309
Hwang-hae
China, E. ...
458
Hwang-ho R. ...
China, E. ...
ib.
Hwang-kvva ..
Amoy Harb...
428
Hwuy-gan-heen,
China, E.
432
Hyacinth Bank,
S. Pacific Oc.
759
I.
lago Point, St., Luzon, W. 492, 495
Icebergs ... Southern Oc. 766
*I-chow ... China, S. ... 388
Ilara Hummock, Luzon, W. ... 496
fllchester Shoal, Lingin Bay ... 198
llilin Mindora, W. . 679
lilana Bay ... Mindanao, S. . 564
Illy Pulo ... Sumatra, W. . 89
Inaroontang, Tanjong, Borneo, N. 512
♦Indefatigabie's Route, Torres Str. 739
Indigiri Bay & R,, Sumatra, E. . 205
*Indispensable Strait, Solomon Is. 757
*Indramayo Point, Java, N. ... 646
*lndrapour Point & R., Sumatra, W.
98, 103
Imperial Canal . China, E. ... 453
Inland Bay ... Java, S. ... 134
In-ga Point ... China, S. ... 425
JIT
Inner Channel... Batavia Road 152
*Inner Channel . Borneo, W. ... 529
Inner Channels . Singapore Str. 276
Inner Head ... Port Jackson 723
*Inner Passage... China Sea 292, 474
Inner Route ... Torres Strait . 743
Inner Shoals ... Palawan, W... 490
Inner Spit ... Chittagong ... 2
Innes I. ... Australia, E. . 742
flnterview I. ... Andaman, W. 50
Investigator Chan., Mergui Arch. 42
*Tnvestigator Shoal, China Sea... 484,
485
^Invisible Bank . Bengal Bay... 34
Ipoe ... ... Sumatra, W. . 105
Iris Strait ... New Guinea . 691
Iron I. ... Tanasserim C. 33
Iron Pot, Island & Light, Van
Diemen Land ... 714, 713
Irrawaddy Shoal, Arracan, Ri. 9, 19
*Islamabad ... Chittagong ... 5, 4
Isthmus Bay ... V. Diemen La. 712
Ivanna Bay ... Bashee Is. ... 501
Jaager Reef ... Flores, N. ... 671
Jabo Point ... Gillolo, E. ... 608
f Jacinto, Port, St. Philippines ... 521
*Jackee Pulo ... Timor, E. ... 685
*Jackson Port ... New S. Wales 722
f Jackson Port Pass., Ditto ... 769
Jackson I. ... Pitt Strait ... 627
Jackson Ledge... Andaman, N. 49
*Jackson Shoal... S. Natunas ... 309
Jago, Fort, St. ... Macao ... 397
Jago, Point, St. . . Luzon, W. 492, 495
Jahbee... ... Sumatra, W. 75
Jambee R. ... Sumatra, E. 210
* Jambie Ayer Pt. . Sumatra, N. 222
JamboPulo ... Sumatra, W. 92
*James, Ca. St. ... Tsiompa 326, 322
*Jane 1 CaroHna, Is. 761
Jansen Rock ... Chusan I. ... 442
Japanese Channel, Campodia, R. 323
*Japan Is. ... Japan Sea ... 508
Japara ... ... Java, N. ... 647
* Jarra Pulo ... Malacca Strait 237
Jarrang Pulo ... Tambelan, Is. 303
Jason Rock ... Sunda Strait 161
*Jattee, Tanjong, Sumatra, E.... 226
Java Head ... Ditto, ditto ... 133
Java, N. ... Java, I. ... 645
Javoe-Javee, I... Sumatra ... 84
Jaunay, I. ... China, E. ... 455
Jewana... ... Java, N. ... 648
Jeendana, I. ... Timor Sea ... 668
*Jehanghire Bank, China Sea ... 358
Jerajah Pulo ... Pr. of Wales 232
Jersey I. ... British Chan. 784
*Jervis Bay ... New S. Wales 721
Jit-ho town ... China, E. ... 432
KAY
799
Jobie I. ... NewGuinea,N.630
fJocak-ko Point... China, S. ... 424
John Heneker Point, Moluccus 695
*John St. Harbour, Staten, I. ... 768
John St. I. ... Macassar Str. 557
*John St. False ... China, S, ... 369
John St. I. &R. Ditto ditto ... 371
John St. I. Singapore Str., 267, 285
* John St. Rocks Ava 14
Johore False Hill, Singapore Str. 274
Johore Hill & Point, Ditto ditto ib.
Johore River ... Entr. Ditto do. 273
Johore Shoal ... Ditto ditto273, 284
Johore S. Cape... Ditto ditto ... 275
Joulan, Pt. ... Anambas ... 306
Judge & Judges Clerk, S. Pac.Oc. 662
Juggoo I. ... Aracan ... 11
*JulianSt.I. ...China Sea ...304
Julkuddar Fort... Chittagong ... 3
Junjon, R. ... Penang ... 235
Junk R. ... Canton R. ... 409
Junk Passage ... Chusan Is. ... 440
Junk Rock ... Leatong, G.... 469
*Junkseylon I. ... Bengal Bay... 45
Just-in-the-way I. Chusan Is. ... 443
t Juthia City ... Siam R. ... 320
Jyoi I ... ... Gillolo Passage 610
K.
Kabarei Bay
Kabingaan I.
*Kabruang I.
Racket Pulo
*Kae-chow-foo
.Waygiou
Sooloo Sea ...
Mindanao, S.
Borneo S. ...
China E.
Kaetan, Tanjong, Borneo, W. ..
Kai-kong I. ... Macao Road
*KalaioaI. ... Celebes Sea..
Kali Puti Point, Java E.
*Kalkoon Is. ... Java Sea 633
Kalyan R. ... Martaban ...
Kaly Pulo ... Java, N.
*Kama Is. ... South, Oc. ...
Kanialadan Har. jMindanao, S.
*Kanary Is. ... Moluccus ...
Kandal... ... Java, N.
*Kangelang I. .. Java Sea 651
*Kanneeoongan Point, Borneo, E.
Kao-shan ... Petcheelee G.
Kapooal I. ... Sooloo Sea ...
Karakita Is. ... Mindanao, S.
fKarkalang I. ... Ditto ditto ...
*KarlshofI. ... Pacific Ocean
Katapang I. ... Java E.
Katomun Ca. ... New Guinea
Katto Pulo ... Malacca Str.
*Katchall I. ... Nicobars
Kaya-la-pun R... Sumatra, E..,
Kayley... ... Celebes, W...
Ka-yau I. ... Junk Seylon
*Kayo I... ... Moluccus ..
Kayoo Pulo ... Sumatra, W..
614
518
562
542
466
525
396
670
655
,388
26
149
761
364
617
647
388
557
464
518
561
563
763
656
691
236
57
224
552
46
695
800
KIO
Kea-ke I. ... Chusan Is. ... 441
*Keaou-chow-foo, City, China E. 458
Keeheel, Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 72, 71
Keeling Is. ... Indian Ocean 131
Keemanees Point, Borneo, W.... 525
*Keeney Balloo... Borneo ... 512
Kee-ow I. & Point, Canton R.... 399
K effing Is. ... Moluccas ... 698
Keik-sliuy-nioon, China E. ... 436
*Ke-ga Point ... Tsiompa 329, 328
Kehan-shee-ak... Canton R. ... 375
*KekikI. ... Gillolo Passage 606
Keladeels. ... Sumatra, W... 89
Kelang I. ... Moluccas ... 698
Kelang- Taw Harbour, Formosa 505
Kelly Channel, Van Diemen's Ld. 706
Kelumbo Pulo ... Lingin Road 199
*KemaVillage&Road,Celebes 559,584
*Kendrick 1. ... Pacific Ocean 637
*Kenn Reef ... Ditto do. 731,445
Kentlaw R. ... Chittagong ... 3
Kent Groups ... Bass' Strait ... 719
Kent Rock Singapore Str. 209, 265
*Kessing I.& E. Point, Ceram E. 69S
Ketcheel I. ... Sunda Strait 148
Ketchepee ... Gillolo Passage 610
Keto Pt. ... Chusan Is. 440,451
*Keu-san Is. ... China, E. ... 460
Kewshan Is. ... China, S. ... 437
Kew-tsee-tseao . Araoy H. ... 427
Keyser Bay & I., Sumatra, S. 113,136
*KeysIs. ... Arafura Sea... 688
Khaut CoUey R. Chittagong ... 3
fKhee-seak Bay, I. & City, China, S.
421
Khio Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 79
Ki Is Arafura Sua... 688
Kiddisol ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Kiery I. ... IMoluccas ... 694
Killon Harbour, Formosa ... 505
Kiilon Khid I.... Formosa ... ib.
Kimsue I. ... China, S. ... 421
*Kin-chow-foo, town, China, E.... 466
King Geo. Reef, Pacific Ocean... 762
tKing-ki-tao, City, Corea ... 471
King I. & Bay... Mergui ... 33,38
King I Bass Str. ... 718
King I New Caledonia 756
King's route through Torres Str. 743
King Town ... Australia ... 725
Kingsmore Shoal, British Chan. 786
(King Point ... Sumatra, N.... 64
K.William I. ... Dampier's Str. 619
Kinibalu ... Balabac Str.... 512
Kin-ngao Points, China, S. ... 420
Kin-pai-moon ... China, E. ... 436
*Kinsui I. ... Japan Is ... 508
*Kin-tang I. ... Chusanls.451,444,
448
KioFlat ... Malacca Strait 235
Kiong-chew-fu... Hainan W. ... 352
Kio Pulo ... Malacca Strait 235
*Kioun-lun ... Cambodia ... 324
LAE
China, E.
Timor Sea .
Celebes Sea.
Celebes, E. .
Sumatra, E..
Ki-san-seu Bay,
*KissaI —
Klautl.
Klobat Mount..,
Knob Hill
Koan High Land China, S.
Ko-Cram
Ko-ho I.
Koilly I.
Ko-keu-so
Koolasian I.
Koo-long-seu I
Koo-luy-tow
Koo-luy-tow Head, China, S.
Korbou Mount Moa I.
Kootubdea I. ... Chittagong
KootubdeaSands Ditto
Kordakew I. ...
Korea ...
*Ko-si-chang Har
Kossall Reef ...
Krals.&Flat...
Krakatoa, I.
*Kramata or Carimata ...
Kraw Isthmus... Siam S.
*Krusenstern Rock, N. Pac. Oc.
Kulewatte Bay Damme I. ..
*Kumi I.
tKootubdeah I. .
Kutsu I.
Kuyper I.
Kwan-shan ... Chusan Is.
Kwei-tow-pae, I. China S.
*Kyai-kami Ca.... Martaban...
*Kyangle I. ... Pellew Is.
Kyi Point ... Celebes
*Kyouk-phyoo Har. Arracan C
*Ky-poong I. ... China, S.
461
678
670
559
161
... 367
Siam Gulf ... 320
China S. 373,396
Celebes, W.... 552
Chusan Is. ... 440
Sooloo Sea ... 517
Amoy H. 426,431
China, S. ... 425
ib.
685
3,2
2
763
467
320
634
235
140
533
44
763
686
Japan Sea ... 507
Chittagong 1 to 3
Chusan Is. ... 448
Batavia Road 163
Pacific Ocean
Yellow Sea ...
, Siam Gulf ...
Pellew Is. ...
Penang
Sunda Str. ...
.. 449
.. 386
26,27
.. 634
.. 551
9
.. 385
L.
*Laage, I.
*Laars Bank
fLabanacky
Laboan Dadong
Laboan Hadgee
Laboang Dapper
Laboan Hadjee,
Laboan Treang,
fLabon Point ...
Labooan I.
f Laboo Boot
Laboo Paclee ...
Labyrinth Is. ...
■f-Lacotta Pulo ...
Lacrone Pulo ...
*LaddaIs.&Peak,
*Ladrone Grand,
Ladrone Little...
Ladrone Is.
Lae-ao Bay
. Sumatra, W. 128
, Celebes Sea... 589
Sumatra, W. 80
Str., Lingin S. 200
Sumatra, W. 80
Pulo, Banca Str. 164
Sumatra, W. 7
Lombock Strait 658
Sumatra, W. 81
Borneo. W.... 525
Allass Strait 663
Ditto ... 662,663
Andaman Great 52
Sumatra, W. 86, 98
Sumatra, W. 100
Malacca Str. 229,
231
China, S. ... 377
Ditto ditto ... ib.
N. Pacific Oc. 636 f
China S.E. ... 430 ,
LAU
Lady Elliot I. .. Australia ... 727
*Lae-chow-foo, City, China E. ... 462
♦Laers Bank ... Celebes Sea... 589
*Laff-samme Is.... China, S. ...380
f Lagan Point ... Tsiompa ... 330
Lagoon Bay ... Port Dalrymple 716
Laguanl.& Town, Saraar, N. ... 521
fLa-guardal. ... Ava ... ... 17
Lahaye I. ... Van Die. Land 711
Lahoo Bay ... Ceram, S.
La Hogue Ca.... France, N.
Laing, Tanjong Banca N.E,
698
784
192
691
685
225
45
Lakahia I. ... New Guinea
Lakor I. ... Serwatty Is....
Lalang Pulo ... Sumatra, N....
fLalan Is. ... Junkseylon I.
Lalary Point ... Banca, W. 170, 169
Lalla Rookh's Group, Torres Str. 742
Lalla Rookh's Inner Route, Ditto do.
741
Lamata... ... Ceram, N. ... 699
*Laniay I. ... Formosa, W. 504
fLamma I. ... China, S. 390, 383
Lamma Channels Canton R. ... 383
*Lam-ock Is. ... Ditto ditto ... 423
*Lamo I. ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Lamon Is. ... China S. ... ib.
Lamookatan I.... Borneo, W 527
Lampatuah Pulo, Sumatra, N.... 224
Lampon Bay ... Luzon, E. ... 523
*Lami)oi)n Bay ... Sunda Str. ... 137
Lampoon Peak Ditto ditto ... ib.
Lams Bay ... Sumatra,W.... 122
fLam-yetls. ... China, E. ...433
Lanawan I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 569
Sunda Str. ...
Ditto ditto ...
Sumatra, W....
China, E. ...
Sooloo Sea ...
Lancava Group, Malacca Strait 231,
229
f Landfall I. ... Andaman, N. 23, 48
Landscape I. ... Gillolo Passage 606
Lanjett I. ... Chusan Is. ... 439
Lankat, R. ... Sumatra, E ... 227
•j-Lankeet 1. & Flat, Canton R. ... 401
LanksaBay&R. Sumatra, N.... 223
Lan-seu I. ... Chusan Is. ... 449
Lantinga Pulo. . China Sea ... 317
*Lantoa I., China, S. 382, ,380, 384,400
Lantoa Passage, Dittoditto 881,380
La Paix Rock ... China Sea 334, 476
Lapor, Tanjong Borneo E. ... 553
*Lapurip I. ... China Sea ... 498
Larantuca, Gut & Village 673, 674
Larat I. ... Timor Sea ... 687
Larchin Is. ... Siam Gulf ... 319
*LargI Sumatra, W. 128
fLarkin Shoal ... Natunas 311,526
Lark Bay ... China S. ... 373
Larpent Bank, Torres Strait ... 738
Larre Lareen ... BlacassarStr. 550
Lassao Point, East Pt. of Celebes593
+Lassem Hill & Town, Java, N. 648
Latta, Is. ... IMoluccas ... 694
Laiibo Laubo Pulo, Sumatra, W. 126
*Laughlan Is. ... S. PacificOc 731
LIN
LOO
MAB
801
i Laurel Banks .
'Laurel's Shoal
Laurot Is.
*Lnut Pule
China Sea ..
Macas-ar Sir.
Borneo S. ..
Nalunas
*Laut Pulo Great, Borneo, S.
•j-Laut I'ulo Little,Ditto ditto
326
519
;")46
307
548
516
498
536
GiHolo Passage 606
Tonking G.
Sumatra, W.
347
105
.592
465
ih.
*Lava I. ... Luzon, N.
Lavender Shoal, Carimata Pass.
tLav\nI.
Lay Cape
Laye
*Lajk,orLaykcn Point, Celebes, S
Leaou-tung G. . China, E.
Lea-tong Gulf . China, E. ...
Lea-tong S. Point, Lea-tongGuif 466
fLeat Pulo ... GasparStr. 184,182
fLebaney Bay&Town, Celebes,W. 551
"fLeegetan Is. ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
Leenia Pulo ... Sumatra, VV. 95,97
Lee-o-loo Bay . China, S. ... 430
*LeeuwaardenI. Ceram, N. ... 699
*Leeu\vaarden Shoal, Ditto ditto ib.
ait,
Leff'ouvv Koad
■j-Legan Point
Leigh I.
Lelary I.
Lema Channel
*Lema Is.
Le Maire St
Lengey R.
Lentjue, K.
Lepa Pulo
*Lerang Point ..
Leron Harbour,
*Le-shan Is
Lestock Is.
Le-taou Is.
Leteao I.
"Letteels.
Letti
*Leu-cung-tow ..
Leung-neeb I...
*Le\va R.
Timor, N.
Tsionipa
New Ireland
Moluccas
China, S.
Ditto ditto ..
.'^outh Sea ..
Ma'acca
680
330
752
695
394
392
768
255
Malacca Strait ih.
Banca, S.
Java, N.
Salibaboo Is
China, E.
Billiton
China, E.
181
648
562
435
185
459 i
Chusan Is. 447,448
Timor Sea
Timor Sea .
China, E. .
Canton, R. .
Borneo, W. .
Lcyden I. & Chan. Batavia Road
Levte I.
tLiant Ca.
Lidang Bay
Lien-hwa-yang .
*Lieong-soy Bay,
fLieu-chewI. ...
*Lieu-chewIs. ...
tLigor Bay
'^Liliou Is. & Shoal, Pacific Oc.
Lima Is.
Limbe, Str. & I
Limpan, Pulo ...
Linago 1.
"Lincoln I.
*LiiiC(ihi Shoals .
Linga I.
Lingayan Gulf & R., Luzon, N.
*Lingin I. & Peaks, China Sea
Ling-soui Point, Hainan
VOL. II.
685
ih.
460
378
627
155
519
321
225
447
354
372
507
319
733
Borneo, W. 529,534
Celebes, N. ... 559
Sumatra, W. 69, 70
Mindanao, N. 519
China Sea
China Sea
China Sea
Philippines
Siam Gulf ...
Sumatra, E.
Chusan Is. ...
Hainan 351
China, S.
Japan Sea ...
Siam Gulf ...
358
294
199
494
199
354
*Linitan I. ... Mindanao, S. 662
*LintirigI. ... China, S. 389,381
*LintinI. ... Canton, R. 398, 389
*Lintin Sand ... Ditto ditto 399,380,
402
Linfin Spit or S. Sa. Ditto do. 385
Lintoa High Land, China, S. 363
Lirog I. ... Salibaboo Is. .')62
*Lisiansky I., N. Pacific Ocean 763
*Lis?amatula I. . Moluccas ... 603
Little Cape ... Tsiompa ... 329
Little Condore . China Sea ... 324
Sumatra, W. . 113
Malacca Strait 230
LittlePaternosterSjMacassarStr. 555,
548
Little Providence I., Pacific Oc. 6S0
Little Strait ... Singapore ... 269
Little Solombo . Java Sea ... 587
Lizard Point ... England, W. . 783
Lloyd Port ... Bonin Is. ... 510
Lobetobie Mount, Flores I. 668, 673
... 673
661
392
648
443
676
Little-fortune I.
Little Passage
Lobetobie Strait, Flores, E.
*Loboagee
Lo-chow
Lodowick
Loka I.
*Lomblen I.
'^Lombock I.
Allass Strait
... China, S. .
Fort, Java, E.
... Chusan Is. .
... Ditto ditto .
Java Sea 660, 662
*Lombock N. Point, Lombock Sir. 660
*Lombock Pei'.k, Lombock I. ... ib.
LorabockStrait, Lombock, W. 656,660
London Reefs . China Sea ... 483
Long L ... Biliton, S. ... 195
Long I. ... Billiton.W.185,197
Long I. ... Gillolo Passage 606
Long I. ... Java Sea ... 653
Long I. ... Mergui ... S3
Long I. ... New Guinea . 630
Long I. ... Durian Strait 209
Long I. ... Singapore Str. 264,269
Long I. ... Sunda Strait 141
fLong-eet ... Canton, R. 401
Long Middle Bank, Malacca Str. 260
*Long Point ... Palawan ... 490
Long Range Pt. St. Helena ... 777
Long Sand ... PrinceofWal.I. 234
Loo-chools. ... Japan Sea ... 607
Lookaun Road . F"ormosa ... 505
Loo-kaup I. ... (.'hina, S. ... 415
Loo-kaup-sye ... Ditto ditto ... 416
*Looki>ong i. ... Gillolo Passage 606
Lookout Hill ... Fayal ... 779
Liiokout^iount . China, S. ... 367
Loomas Str. ... Malacca Str. . 250
Loomat Pulo ... Malacca Strait 244
Looniboocan I. . BalabacStraits 515
Loompoor ... Sumatra, W. 102
Loongearp Barbah Pakroa, Sumatra,
W. 70
Loongear|) Soobahng, Sumatra . 69
LoongearpOojong Cahrang, Sumatra,
W. 78
5 y
Lord Amherst's I., Aracan ... 11
*Lord Auckland L., S. Pi ci. Oc. 770
Lord Howe I., Dittoditto ... 729
*Lord North I., N. Pacific Ocean 631
Loughborough Group, Mergui Ar-
chipelago 40
*Louisa Shoal ... ChinaSea ... 486
Louisa Shoal ... Mindanao, S. 562
Louisiade ... Pacific ... 750
Lo-wangl. ... Chusan Is. 440,439
Low Cape ... Borneo, W.... 525
*Low Head Lighthouse, Port Dai-
ry m pie 715
Low I. ... China Sea ... 309
Low I., Gaspar Strait 183,185
*Low I. ... Natunas ... 309
Low I. ... Singapore Str. 284
Lowka I. ... Chusan Is. ... 446
*Low Pyramidal Rocks, Natunas 196,
308
Low Rocks ... Sapy Strait ... 665
Loyaltv Is. ... S.Pacific Oc. 7.W
tLozin Pulo ... Siam Gult 318, 321
Luan 1. ... Serwatty I. ... 686
fLuban I. ... Luzon,49 1,478,522
Luban Pulo ... Rhio Strait ... 202
*Luheck I. ... Java Sea ... 586
Lucapin Hay Is., Banda Sea ... 703
*Lucepara I. ... BancaStr.lG3tol70
*Lucepara Is. ... Banda Sea ... 703
Lucepara Passage, Banca Str.169, 177
Lucepara Point . Sumatra, E. ... 169
Luconia, E. ... Philippines ... 523
Luconia N.&W. Ditto ... 491
Luconia, S. ... Ditto ... 521
Luegas I. ... Philippines ... 673
Luengsoy Point . Hainan ... 354
Lueng-Suitow I., China ... 380
Lugue ... Luzon, W. ... 496
Luh-wang I. ... Chusan Is. ... 440
Lui-chew-fu ... China, W. 346, 363
Luke I. St. ... Mergui Archip. 40
Luora ... Timor Laut 687
Lusarady I. ... Flores Sea 671
Lussong Point... Sunda Strait 146
Lutangan I. ... Mindanao, S. 564
Luzon or Luconia, E. Coast ... 523
Luzon, W.& N. Coasts ... 491
Luzon S. ... Philip. ... 521
fLychune Is. ... Ava 16, 17
*Lydea I. ... Carolinas ... 761
Lyee-moon ... China, S. 383, 413
Lyiy I (i- Shoal . Alacassar Road 550
Lynn Shoal ... Sunda Strait 161
Lyra I. ... Corea, S. ... 471
*Lyra Shoal ... New Ireland, N.762
Ly's Shoal ... Mergui ... 33
M.
Maat Suvkers Is., Van Diemen
Li.nd 707
IMabag I. ... Babuyanes ... 498
802
MAL
iMaba I. and Village, Gillolo, E. 608
*Mabo t';!pe ... Battanta I. ... 024
Macao Fort ... Canton K. ... 375
Macao Road ... China, S. ... 397
♦Macao Town iV Harbour, Cliina S. ib.
Macao to Manila, Directions ... 472
*MacAskillIs. ... Carolinas ... 762
♦Macassar Town, Celebes, W. 560
Macass:ir Strait, Celebes, W.542, 548
Macassar Strait Currents, Celebes,
AV. 557,558
♦Macclesfield Bank, China Sea, 360
Macclesfield I. . Chusan Is. ... 444
Macclesfield Bock, China Sea 334
♦Macclesfield Strait, Banca, E. 181,
195
Macclesfield Strait Currents ... 195
Ma-cheung-cock, Canton K. ... 374
Mac Key Rock, China Sea ... 526
Mackian I. ... Moluccas ... 694
JIackkareera I., China S. ... 396
McCluer Inlet, New Guinea, W. 629
Macpherson's Strait, Andaman Grt.52
♦MacquarieHar., Van Diem. Lnd. 706
*Macquarie I., South Pacific Oc. 770
Macquarie Port, New S. "Wales 741
*Macquarie Tower, Port Jackson 722
Madagascar Hurricanes, lnd. Oc. 772
♦Madjicoseniah Is., Japan Sea 507
Madoo Pulo ... Celebes Sea 670
Madramacan I. . Mergui li. ... 34
Madras, Hindoostan, E. 136, 772
♦Madura I. ... Java, E. ... 650
♦Madura Strait... Ditto ditto ... 648
]\]ady Pulo Great, Bantam Bay 150
Mady Pulo Little, Ditto ditto ... ib.
Magalhaen Strait, South America 768
tMagdalen Sh., Gaspar Str. ... 189
Magellan Strait, S. America ... 768
INIagna Port ... Philippines ... 522
Mah-chow I. ... China, S. ... 402
Mahnay Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 70
Mah-wan I. ... Canton 11.383, 384
Maignia I. ... Cochin China 341
Waingon Bay, Van Diemen Land 712
♦Majo Pulo ... Sumbawa, N. 644
Makalara I. ... Near Siao ... 560
Malabar Coast, Hindoostan, VV. 773
♦Malacca Fort and Hills, Malacca Str.
256
Malacca Passage, A chen Is. ... 62
Malacca Road, Malacca Str. ... 255
Malacca Strait Currents ... 214
Malacca Strait ... 214 to 264
Malacca Strait Tides ... 263
Malacca Strait Winds ... 214
Malahumasan I., Philippines ... 522
Malabo Point Banca, N. ... 193
Malampaya Bay, Palawan, W. 489
Malana 1. ... Moluccas ... 702
Malapis Is. ... Borneo, W. ... 529
Malay Archipelago, Malay, E. 31 1
to 315
MAR
l\Ialay C. ... Malacca Strait 229
Malay, E. Coast, China Sea 316 to
318
♦Maldemarenda Point, Azores ... 781
Maljho River ... Singapore Str. 273
Mallawalle I. ... Borneo, N. ... 512
Malloodoo Bay Borneo, N. ... ib.
Mallooa ... Timor Sea ... 677
Mal-low chow, China, S. ... 397
Malora Pulo ... Achen Is. ... 62
Maloza R. ... Baseelan I. ... 571
Mania Batoo ... Sumatra, VV. 88
Mamalakjee ... Celebes Sea... 643
*Mambalienawan I., Bornea, E. 516
Mamburao Bay, Mindora, W. ... 579
tMamee Chow ... China, S. ... 366
*Mamee Chow Point, Ditto ditto ib.
Mamclles ... Cochin China 347
*Mampava R. & Point, Borneo, W. 527
Mamer I. ... Chusan Is. 448
fManado ... Celebes, N. ... 659
Manallpa ... Mindanao, S. 567
Manr.volkal. ... Banda Sea ... 699
*Mancap Pulo ... Borneo, S. ... 530
fMancap Shoal... Ditto ditto ... 531
Manchow ... Hainan I. ... 351
*Mandalique I — Java, N. ... 647
Mandang I. ... Near Siao ... 560
*Mandarin'sCap . China, S. ... 367
*Mandahar Ca.... Celebes, W... 551
Mandol Str. ... Sumatra, C... 207
Mandoota II. ... Sumatra, W.... 104
ManeaterL & Shoal, Java, N. 160, 152
Maneater I. ... Sunda Str. ... 1.50
♦Manevasa I. ... Borneo, S. ... 546
Jlangallom I. ... Borneo, W. ... 525
Mangarin Point Mindora, W. 579
Mangarin Port Ditto ditto ... 576
MangeeaL ... S. Pacific Oc. 763
Mangerye Strait Flores, W. ... 667
Mangien ... Sumatra, W. 80
Mangoak I. ... Banguey ... 513
Mangrove Harb. Flores, W. ... 667
♦Mangsee Is., Balabac Straits 514, 516
Mangs Is. ... Marian Is. ... 637
Manguin Pulo... Anambas ... 306
Manila Bay ... Luzon, W. 478, 492
*Manila City ... Ditto ditto ... 480
Manila Straits... Philippines ... 521
♦Manipa I. ... Bouro, E. ... 697
Mankokh, Pulo Borneo, W. ... 530
Alan-mee-chow China, S. ... 385
I Manna Point ... Sumatra, W. 110
*Manook-manookanl., SoolooSea 516
♦Manoombing Hill, Banca, N. ... 173
Manouaran Pulo, Waygiou, N. 614
Mansfield I. ... Dampier Str. 619
•]\Iansfield Sh. ... Celebes, S. 592,593
f Mantannane Is. Borneo, W. ... 524
Marambon Pulo Malacca, Str. 263
-j-Maratua I. ... Borneo, E. ... 557
Marawan R. ... Banca, E. ... 191
Marbaboe ... Java, N. ... 647
MER
Marble Rock
Marboo R.
Maragalongs
Maregolang I
♦Margaret I.
Maria Ca.
Maria I.
]\Iaria Port
China, S. ... 365
Malacca Str. 233
Macassar Str. 549
Moluccas ... 695
Carolinas ... 761
New Zealand 764
Van Diem. Lnd. 7 14
Mindanao, \V. 571
* Marian Is., N. Pacific Ocean ... 636
Miracaba I. ... Luconia, S. ... 622
Mariere I. ... Pacific ... 632
IMarinduque I.... Ditto ditto ... 622
Marinloc ... Luzon, W. ... 494
Mariveles L & Bay, Ditto ditto 478
♦Marjoribanks Harbour, Corea ... 470
*]Marlborough Fort, Sumatra, W. 106,
133
♦Marlborough Point, Ditto ditto 126
tMarra Pulo ... Dittoditto 101, 100
Maroona Shoal China Sea ... 361
tMarlaban C. & Town, Bengal Bay 25
Martaban Hills Pegu ... 25,21
Martaban River Bengal Bay... 26
Marteux I. ... New Ireland 751
fMartin St. I. & Reef, Aracan C. 6
^Mary St. I. ... Azores ... 781
Mary Ann, Route of, through Tor-
res Strait 738
Masbate L ... Luzon, S. ... 522
•j-Mascall I. ... Chittagong 3,1,2
Masi Bay ... Mindora, VV. 579
Mason I. ... China, E. ... 458
Massa Teega Is. Borneo, W. ... 529
Massular 1. ... Sumatra,Vl'^.... 88
Matabella Is. ... Moluccas ... 699
Matacote I ... Sapy Strait, 665, 666
Mata Pulo ... Anambas ... 306
♦Mataha I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 570
*Mataran ... Lombock, E. 662
♦Matelotas I. ... Carolina Is. ... 634
Matsinglo Point, Luzon, W. ... 493
* Matthew I. ... S. Pacific Oc. 758
fMatthewIs. St. fllergui C. 41, 37
*Matthew St. Is. Moluccas ... 602
Mattie, Tanjong Sumatra ... 224
*Ma-urb Pnt. ... China, S. ...422
Ma-urh-gaou Harbour, China, S. ib.
Mauritius Hurricanes, India Oc. 772
Mautama R. ... Martaban ... 25
Mauva Point ... Luzon,N. ... 497
Mayo, Pulo ... Sumbawa N. 044
•j-Meangis I. ... Mindanao, S. 563
-j-fileaxima I. ... Japan Sea ... 508
Meadows Port ... AndamanGreat 51
Meih-taou Is. ... Petchelee G. 462
Meih-taou N. Is. Petchelee G. 466
Melville Ca. ... Australia ... 728
fMelville Port ... Lieu-chew L 508
*Menam River ... Siara ... 319
Menangus Is. ... Mindanao, S. 563
♦Mendoza I. ... China, E. ... 417
fMensular I. Sumatra, W. 88, 86, 98
Merak Pulo ... Sunda Str. ... 148
M[N
Merdoo ... Sumatra, N.... 221
Mergui Archipelago, Mergui C. 31 to
40
*Mergui Town Bengal Bay 3 1 , 34. to 46
*Merrere I. ... N. Pacific Oc. 632
*Meroe I. ... Nicobars ... 60
Merope Bay ... Formosa ... 505
Meropes Rocky Bank, China, S. 423
* Merope Shoal ... China, S. ... 426
Mesan I. ... Chusan Is. ... 439
Metcalfe I. ... Mergui Archip. 43
f Mew I. & Bay Sunda Strait 145
Mew-stone, Van Diem. Lnd. 708, 707
Mey-hou-so Point, China, E. ... 434
*Meyo I. ... Molucca Pass. 565
Mia-tao, or Mia-tau Is. China, E.
459
♦Michael St. I. & Town, Azores 780
♦Michael St. I. & Sh. Sooloo Sea 516.
514
IMichael Shoals, St.,Balabac Str. 514
*Mid-day Reef... S. Pacific Oc. 731
Middleburgh I. Batavia Road 152
*Middleburgh I. New Guinea 629
Middleburgh Shoal, Durian Straits 207
Middle Cape ... Malay C. ... 316
IMiddle Channel, Balabac Straits 515
Bliddle Channel, Batavia Road 154
Middle Ground, Broken Bay... 725
Middle Ground, Chittagong ... 2
MiddleGround, Chusan Is. ...413
Middle Ground, Keeling I. ... 132
Middle Ground, Rangoon R.... 23
MiddleGround, Port Jackson 723,725
Middle Ground, Penang ... 235
Middle Head ... Port Jackson 723
Middlel. ... Achen Head . 63
Middlel. ... Alloo Strait . 676
Middle]. ... Engano I. ... 130
IMiddle I. ... Hainan, S. ... 350
tJIiddlel. ... Mergui C. 43,44
Middlel. ... Bouton Strait 598
Middle I. Greyhound Str. 603, 604
Middlel. ... Moluccas ... 603
♦Middlel. ... Salayer Straits 595
Middlel. ... Singapore Str. 267
Middlel. ... Sunda Strait 143
Middle Is. ... Sapy Strait ... 665
Middle Passage, Gaspar Straits 194
Middle Passage, Sumatra, W. 98
Middle Rock ... Java ... 152
Middle Rocks... China, S. ...417
Middle Shoal ... Sumatra, W. 109
f Middle Strait, Andaman Great 51
•Middleton Is. & Reef, S. Pacific Oc.
730
Miguel de Naga St. Luzon, E. 523
Miguel St. ... Philippines ... .522
f Mijou River ... Aracan 7
Millstone Rock, Ava 16
Min River ... China, E. ... 433
Minangas Port . Luzon, VV. ... 492
Mindanao I. ... Philippines ... 519
MOT
* Mindanao R.&Town,MindanaoI. 564
IMindanao, S. Point, Celebes ... ih.
Mindora I. ... Philippines ... 578
Mirfdora Straits, Mindora,W. 575
* Minerva Bank, China Sea 335, 482
Minerva Rock, Luzon,W. 492,522
Minerva Shoal . RhioStrait ... 202
Minerva Shoal, S. Pacific Oc. ... 732
]\IinstrelPassage, Timor Sea ... 683
MintaoPulo, Sumatra,W. 121,123
fMinto Rocks ... Borneo, W. . 529
Mintow Point ... Sumatra ... 172
MintowTown&Bank, Banca,W. 173
Mintow Road . Banca, VV. ... 174
tMiou R. ... Aracan ... 7
*iAIirs Bay ... China, S. ... 414
Misfortune I. ... Gaspar Str. ... 184
t Mitre L ... S. Pacific Oc. 759
Moal. ... Timor Sea ... 685
MoarJIt. ... Malana Strait 258
*Moar Pulo ... Gillolo, E. ...608
Mobour Pulo ... Anambas ... 306
fMocomoco ... Sumatra, W. 104,98
*MoffatHill ... Canton R. ... 411
MoheaPulo ... Malacca Str. . 229
Moluccas Monsoons, Moluccas 692
•Molucca Is. ... Celebes, E. 692 to
701
Molucca Passage, Ditto ditto ... 583
*I\Ioney I. ... China Sea ... 358
fMong-chow ... Canton R. ... 374
*Mong-chow ... China, S. ... 36S
Alongos Mongos, Luzon, VV. ... 494
.Monkey I. ... Bintang ... 284
Monkier Is. ... Sumatra, W. 82
* Monmouth Group, Bushee Is. 500,501
*MonnikendamI., Batavia Road 157
*Monopin Hill ... Banca, N. 173,164
Monsoons ... Sumatra, N. &
Nicobar Is. 66
*MontagueCa.... China, E. ...438
Montague, I. ... Australia ... 720
.Montanha I. ... China, S. ... 373
*Montaran Is. ... Billiton, E. 538,335
*Monthoule I. . Nicobars ... 61
■f-Mooarro Pulo ... Borneo, R. ... 525
fMooleegee Is. ... Sooloo Sea ... 516
fMoolenwerfe Shoal, Java, N. ... 158
Moone I. ... Moluccas .. 694
Moora, Tanjong, Borneo, W. . 527
f Mora Mount ... MalaccaStrait 258
Moreallam ... Sumatra, W. 110
*Morcsses I. ... Borneo, S. ... 546
Moreton Ca. & I., New S. Wales 727
*MortyI.& Strait, Gillolo ...565
Moscos, Is. ... Tavay, C. 29, 28
Mosia Mount ... Java, N. ... 648
* Mosque Point ... Aracan, R. ... 7
Mother iS: Daughter, Bouro, E. 696
IMother & Daughters, N. Britain 753
Motir I. ... Moluccas ... 694
Motoels. ... China, S. ... 383
Motow Fort ... Canton R. ... 375
5 K 2
NA.S
803
♦Moulin L ... S. Pacific Oc. 757
fMoulmein Town, .Martaban ... 25
fJlountain Point, Azores ... 780
Mouse Rock ... Chusan Is. ... 438
MoxaPill ... China, S. ... 386
Mozambique Ch., Africa, E. ... 773
f Muckay ... Sumatra, W. 80
Mud Flat ... Banca Strait . 168
Mud Point ... Malacca ... 247
Mugwort L ... China. S. ... 385
Mui-davaich ... Cochin China 337
Mui-din ... Tsiompa ... 330
Mui-guio ... Tsiompa ... 329
Muncoo, Pulo . Borneo, W. ... 530
Muncooda, Pulo, Banca, N. ... 193
-f-Muncoda, Tanjong, Banca, N. . ib.
Mundancoos Is. . :jlalacca Strait 248
Munkie, Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 82
Murcielagos Is., Mindanao, N. 519
Murray Is. ... Torres Str. ... 735
^Murray Sound . China, E. ... 471
fMusa Port ... Babuyanes ... 498
Muscle Bay, Van Diemen Land 711
Blusical Instrument I., China E. 436
Musquito Pulo, Sumatra, W. ... 98
Muttabarry I., Chittagong... 3,2
.Alyall Bank ... New S. Wales 727
Mynderk Shoal, Java, N. ... 153
Mynders Rocks, Java, E. ... 65 li
Mysole I. ... ^Moluccas ... 617
*Mysory I. ... New Guinea, N.629
N.
*NaafR. ... Aracan ... 6
Nacavsa Is. ... Mergui ... 45
Nai-oojoon I. ... Martaban C. . 28
Nalaboo ... Sumatra, W. . 78
Namatotte I. ... N.Guinea ... 691
Namo ... China, S. ... 414
•Namoa I. & Har. China, S. 423,369
Nam-pang I. ... China, S. ... 368
Nam-shan ... Canton R. ... 404
Nancy Pulo ... Achen Is. 63, 64
*Nanga-saque ... Japan Is. ... 508
Nan-gaou Har., China, S. ... 423
*Nangga Harbour, Sunda Strait 138
*NankaIs. ... Banca Str. 171, 177
♦Nanking ... China, E. ... 4.i4
*Nankin I. ... Hainan ... 355
Nan-tae-woo-shan Pagoda, China,
E. 426
Nantian Pulo ... Sumatra VV. 121
f Nanqueen I. ... Hainan ... 355
Napacmac Point, Luzon, N. ... 495
tNapakiang Rd.&To. Lieu-chew L.508
Napal Tanjong . Sunda Str. ... 137
•Narcondam I. ... Bengal Bay 55,23
Nasoniver Droogte, Java Sea ... 157
•Naso Point ... Panay, W. ... 573
*Nassau Island ... Pacific Ocean 759
Nassau, North I., Sumatra, VV'. 126
804
NOE
OCC
om
Nassau, South I., Sumatra. W. 127
Nassouwens Gat, Ceram, W. ... 698
Nassy-See-Touiikas Suniatia, W. 88
Natal ... Africa S. ... 774
*NatalBayHill&To.,SumatraW.,89.87
*Natuiias ... China Sea ... SOB
*Natuna Grand . Natunas ... 307
*Natuiias, N. ... China Sea ... ih.
*Natunas. S. ... Ditto ditto ... 309
tNaturalisteCape,VanDienienLnd.713
Nearchus Kock, Mergui, Is. 37, 39
»Nederlandich I., Pacific Ocean 763
Needle Rock ... Canton R. ... 379
Needle Rocks... China, S. ... 389
Needles ... Isle of Wight 78.5
Nee-wok I. ... China, S. ... 368
Neganiale I. ... AracanC ... 12
*Neg()ry Calani ... Moluccas ... 695
tNegrais Ca. & R. Ava, W. 16, 17, 19
fNegros I. ... Philippines ... 572
*Neilson Reef ... Pacific Ocean 760
Nelson Head ... N.S.Wales 726
Neptune Shoal, Java... ... 155
Nerbuddah Rocks, Aracan C — 13
Nest I. ... Cochin China 341
Ne-wan ... China, E. ... 452
New Britain ... S.Pacific Ocean 751
*New Caledonia, Ditto ditto ... 755
*New Guinea . . . Ditto ditto 628, 689
New Harbour ... Singapore 271, 269
*New Hebrides . S. Pacific Oc. 758
New Holland N., Timor Sea 734 to
744
New Ireland ... S. Pacific Oc. 751
•New I. ... Timor Sea ... 684
New Salma ... Keeling Is. ... 132
New S. Wales, S. Pacific Oc. ... 720
New-year Harbour, Staten I., 768
New Strait ... Malacca ... 264
tNhiatrang Bay & City, Cochin
China 333
Niagoni Arroe Is., Timor Sea ... 688
Niamo Pulo ... Sumatra, W, 100
Nias Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 87
♦Nicholas Point, . St. Java, N. 148
Nicholas Shoal, . St. Manila Bay 479
*Nicobar Great . Bengal Bay 60, 61
*Nicobar Is., Bengal Bay 55 to 61
fNicobar Little ... Ditto ditto ... 60
Nightingale I. ... Jladura E. ... 651
>""ila I. ... Timor Sea ... 686
fNimrod Grouj), Southern Ocean 763
Nine Is. ... Malacca Str. 237
Nine Is. ... Nicobars ... 53
Nine Is. ... Canton R. ... 398
*Nine Pin Rock, China, S. ... 412
Ning-po R. ,., China, E. 451, 437
tNinth I. ... Bass Strait ... 715
No Village ... Sumatra, W. 69
*Nobby I. ... New S. Wales 723
Noesa Baron ... Java, S. ... 134
*Noesa Comba ... Celebes Sea 588
Noesa Laut ... Ceram, S. ... 702
Noe.-a Loombo . .lava Sea ... 587
*Noesa Seras, Celebes Sea 550, 588
•|-Noessaniva Point, Amboina I. ... 700
Nokol. ... Pulo Nyas ... 120
*Nonio Ca. ... Japan Is. ... 309
*Noncowry I. & Harbour, Nicobars 38
Noosa Nessing . Aral'ura Sea 683
Norfolk Bay, Van Diemen Land 713,
714
... S. Pacific Ocean758
Norfolk I
f Norman Point, Chittagong R.
*North Anambas, China Sea ...
♦North Bashees, China Sea ...
North Bay, Van Diemen Land
North Black Rock, St. Helena I,
4
306
502
713
777
North Breakers, Fort Marlborough 106
North Cape ... Malay, E. ...
North Channel, Singapore Str.
North East I. ... Surigao Bay
* North Haycock I., China Sea ...
North Heads
North I.
North I.
North I.
North I.
North I.
316
280
590
308
724
598
130
183
677
Austral.
Bouton Strait
Engano
Caspar Straits
Pantar Strait
Salayer Straits 595
*North I., Sunda Strait 160, 179
f North Ledge ... Tavay, E. ... 28
North Natunas . China Sea ... 309
North Port. Van Diemen Land 708
North Reach ... Callam Strait 249
*North Rock ... Calaniianes ... 577
North Rock ... Malacca Strait 238
North Rock ... Tavay C. ... 28
*North Sands, Malacca Strait ... 239
*North Shoal ... Paracels ...357
North Shore Pagoda, Canton R. 411
Northumberland Is. New S. Wales744
Northumberland Sh. Mindanao S. 563
Northumberland Str. Calami. 575,
577, 581
*North Watcher, Sunda Strait 139, 158
tNorthwest I. ... Natunas ... 308
*NorthwestI. ... Yowl Is. ...616
Northwest Port, Van Diemen Ld. 712
* Northwest Rock, Calaniianes Is. 578
f Norway Is. ... Tonking Gulf 349
Notches ... Chusan Is. ... 439
*Novv-chow ... China, S. ... 362
Nulo China, S.E.... 430
Nun Rock ... Manila Bay... 47S
Nuoc-ngol Point, Cochin China 344
*Nyas Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 119
O.
*Observation Bank, Paracels ... 359
•Observatory Point, RechercheBay709
Obtuse Cone ... Mindanao, S. 562
Oby Major L ... Moluccas ... 603
*ObyPulo ... China, Sea ... 322
Oby Pulo False, Ditto ditto ... ib.
Occuse ... Timor, N. ... 680
*Ock-seu I. ... China, E. ... 433
*Offak Harbour, Waygiou, N. 613
Oie-hai-ou Har. Petchelee G. 460 •
fold Lamata ... Ceram, N. ... 699
Old Strait ... Singapore ... 273
Old Thunder Head, China, S E. 425
Oleliet ... Timor Laut... 687
Olive I. ... Mergui Archip. 39
Omal ... Amboina ... 701
*Ombay I. ... Timor Sea 583,677
Ombay Passage, Ditto ditto 385,642
*Omega Shoal ... Java Sea ... 159
Omonkon I. ... Mindanao, N. 51!*
*Onaseuse I. ... Pacific Ocean 762
Ong-ro Harbour, Cochin China 340
Onkona Point... Celebes, W. . 531
Onrustl. ... Batavia Road 153
Onrust Knowl . Oiirust I. ... ih.
*Ontario Shoal ... Borneo, W. 534,533
Ontong Java Pt. & Reef, Java, N. 153
Oobeean I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 517
Ocgooron Point, SundaStrait . 137
Oojong Ballai ... Sumatra, E.... 226
*Oojong Bantam, Sumatra ... 226
Oojong Byan ... Sumatra ... 223
Oojong Booboon, Sumatra, W. . 727
fOojong Caloat . Sumatra ... 81
Oojong Camarang, Sumatra, W. 82
*Oojong Carrang, Sumatra, W. . 106
Oojong, Lankat-tuah, Sumatra 224
Oojong Gading, Sumatra, W. . 92
Oojong Bahroos, Sumatra, W. . 73
Oojong Battoo Tootung, Do. . 75
Oojong Chenam Proeng, Sumatra,
W. 70
Oojong Glass ... Sumatra, W. 71
Oojong Lalloo... Ditto ditto 91,97
Oojong, Leang . Sumatra, E. . 227
f Oojong Massang, Sumatra, W. ... 93
Oojong Perbabean, Sumatra, E. 226
Oojong Petecallo, Sumatra ... 84
Oojong Quala Lanska, Sumatra . 22{
Oojong Rajah . Ditto ditto 79,78,86
Oojong Ramboon, Sumatra, W. . 74
Oojong Seecarboa, Ditto ditto . 92
Oojong Tannang, Sumatra ... 148
Oolar Pulo ... Ditto ... 101
OolarPulo ... Sunda Str. ... 148
fOoloogan Bay . Palawan, W. . 488
Oomowooniang I., Sunda Strait . 137
Oong-chune I. . Ava ... 16
Oorlong Point . Malacca Str. . 237
Oosaddal. ... Sooloo Sea ... 517
Oosookan I. ... Borneo, W. ... 524
Oo-tong ... China, S. ... 422
OphirMt. ... Malacca ... 256
*Ophir Mount ... Sumatra, W. . 92
Opossum Bay, Van Diemen Ld. 712
■■'Orange Fort ... Ternate I. ... 694
Orange I. ... Bashees ... 501
Orange I. ... Sumatra, W. . 102
Ordcl I. ... Gillolo, E. ... 607
Oriatung Pagoda, Aracan ... 7
PAH
^Orkne}' South Is., Soutliern Ocean 766
OrleanaReeF ... China Sea ... 484
Ormoiid Reef . Torres IStrait... 737
*Ornisbee Shoal, Moluccas ... 611
*Ornisbus Peak . Japan Sea ... 510
Orplian Mountain, Sumatra, N. 66
Orpheus Bank, Bancia Is. ... 702
Orr Pulo ... Gillolo, E. ...608
Ospray Reef ... Aracan 12, 13
*OssaBay & Vill. GilIolo,E. ...608
*OsterlyN. Shoals, Carimata Pass 538
Ostrich Shoals . Java Sea ... l.'il
Oswaniongl. ... Chusan I. ... 442
Otto Pulo ... Gillolo, E. ... 608
Otvvay Ca. ... Bass Strait ... 718
Ou-cheun ... China, S. ... 363
fOu-chow ... China, S. ... 372
Ou-chow I. ... Ditto ditto ... 404
OularTanjong... Banca, W. ... 174
Ou-moon ... Canton River 397
Ou-sha-kan ... Chusan Is. ... 442
Outah I. ... Gillolo Passage 610
Outer Channel . Batavia Road 151
Outer Cove, Van Dienien Land 716
Outer North Head, New S.Wales723
Outer Passage . China Sea 292, 293
•Outer Shoal ... Java Sea ... 646
Outer Spit ... Chittagon:i ... 2
Outer Water I., Malacca Str. . 258
Owen Channel . Sunda Strait . 138
Owen I. ... Mergui Archip. 39
Owen Port ... Tavoy 1. ... 31
*Owen Shoal ... China Sea ... 484
Owers ... British Channel 784
*Owick Bay ... China, S. ... 424
*OysterBay &I. VanDiemen Land 714
Oyster I. ... China, S. E. . 431
Oyster I. & Reef, Aracan C. ... 7, 9
Paart Port ... CelebesSea ... 672
Pachasan Is. ... China, E. ... 452
Pacific Ocean Is. & Dangers ... 760
Pacific Ocean ... ... ... 637
Pacific Ocean ... Passage across 768
Pacific Ocean ... Winds ... 640
Padang Cove ... Lombock Str. 659
*PadannIs.&Head,Suniatra,W. 95, 96
P.ulang Pulo ... Sumatra, N. 226
*Padaran Ca., Cochin China 330,336
tPadewawy Bay, Sandalwood I. 668
Padron Ca. ... Africa, S. ... 774
*Pagoda Ca. ... Cochin China 340
Pagoda I. ... China, S. ... 424
tPagoda Point ... Ava C. 16, 17
Pagoda Rock ... Kyouk Phyoo 9
Piiguayan I. ... ]\Iindora Sea 574
Pehng-ah ... Sumatra, W. . 75
Pahse Rock ... Sumatra, W. . 74
Pahse Islets ... Sumatra, W. . 77
tPahangR.& Point, MalayE. ... 316
PAN
Paix Rock ... China Sea 334,476
*Pajaros I. ... Marian Is. ... 637
Pakan or Formosa, China Sea ... 504
Pak-leak-low I., China, S. 387, 395
Pak-Pra ... Mergui ... 45
Pak-ting ... Canton R. ... 374
Pak-tseem-mee, I. China, S. ... 385
Palaba ... Allass Strait... 662
PalaL ... Celebes, N. ... 561
Palamban R.&T., Sumatra, E. 172,
173
Palaon Bay ... Mindora, W. 579
Palaos Is. ... Pacific, N. ... 632
Palapa Port ... Philippines ... 521
Palasan Bay ... Mindora, W. 579
Palaubi I. ... Luzon, N. ... 497
♦i'alawan I & Sh., China Sea ... 488
Palawan Passage, Ditto ditto 294,490
Palleeangan I. . Sooloo Sea ... 517
Palmer I. ... Timor Sea ... 683
Palmer Shoal, . Banca, E. ... 191
Pamalang Point, Java, N. ... 647
*Pamanoekan Point, Java, N. ... 645
*Pamaroong I. ... Borneo, E. 556,544
*Pambeelan, I. ... China Sea ... 312
Paniooja Pulo ... Banca, N. ... 193
Pampandoyen Mount, Palawan I. 488
Pan Shoal ... Rhio Strait203, 279
Panaique Tanjong, Penang I. ... 233
Panarukan Point, Java, E. ... 655
"■■Panayl. ... Philippines ... 573
Pancul Penang R. Banca, E. ... 191
Pancal (or Panca) Pulo, Sumatra,
W. 91, 92
Panco Point ... Java, N. ... 648
Pandan Point, Mindora, W. 577, 579
Pandan Pulo ... Durian Str. ... 207
*Pandan Pulo ... Malacca Strait 228
Pandookan I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 517
*Pandora Entrance, Torres Strait 735
Pandora's Reefs, S. Pacific Oc. 734
*Paneeky Pulo ... China Sea ... 302
Panellal. ... Mergui C. ... 33
Pangasani I. ... BoutonStr. ... 599
Pangasinan Gulf, Luzon, W. ... 494
Pangel Pulo ... Malacca Strait 233
Panghah ... Sumatra, W. 77
Pangong, Tanjong, Sumatra ... 170
*Pangootaran I. ... Sooloo Sea 517
Pangoriang ... Java, N. ... 149
Panjang I. ... Celebes Sea 670
f Panjang Pulo, Ayer Bongy Bay 92
tPanjang Pulo, Banca, E. 190, 191,
192
Panjang Pulo ... Bantam Bay 150
*Panjang Pulo ... China Sea ... 284
Panjang Pulo ... Junkseylon 45, 46
Panjang Pulo ... Malacca Strait 229
f Panjang Pulo ... Siam Gulf ... 321
Panjang Pulo ... Singapore ... 269
Panjang Pulo ... Tappanooly Bay 87
Panjong Datoo, Siam Gulf ... 318
Panjong Reef ... Malacca Road 256
PAT
805
Panjore Pulo, Sumatra, N. 207, 227
*Panka Point ... Java, N. ... 648
Pan-lung-shee ... Macao ... 397
Panneu Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 102
Panoan I. & Strait, Philippines ... 519
Pantjoor J. ... Dyron Strait 207
'Pantar I. & Strait, Timor Sea ... 076
Pantow Point ... Sumatra, E. 227
Panuctan I. ... Babuyances ... 499
*Pat]umb;uig;m Pulo, Borneo, W. 528
Papale Pulo ... Sunda Str. ... 146
Papan Channel, Borneo, W. 529
fPapan Pulo ... Ditto ditto ... il).
Papery Road ... Siam Gulf ... 319
Pappan R. ... Malacca Str. 230
j-Papra Strait ... Mergui S. ... 45
Paps Rocks ... Cochin China 342
Para Point ... Cerani ... 698
*Paracels ... China Sea 357,474
Paragua I. ... China Sea ... 488
fParaquas ... Palawan, W. 490
fParcelar Hill, Malacca Str. 246, 286
■f Parcelar Point, Ditto ditto 251, 241,
285
Parian Point ... Negrais ... 17
tParlis R. ... Malacca Str. 230
Parmasang Hill & Pt., Banca I. 1()4,
169
Parry Port ... Staten I. ... 768
*Parry Group ... Bonin Is ... 510
*Parr}' I. ... Pacific Ocean 761
Partridge I., Van Diemen Land 711,
712
Pas-op Reef ... Batavia ... 155
fPassage I. ... Andamans ... 53
Pas^age I.
Passage I.
Passage I.
fPassage I.
Passage I.
Passage I.
Passage 1.
Passage I.
... Pitt Strait ... 625
... Balabac Str. 515
... Canton R. ... 378
... China, S. ... 369
... Kangelang, E. 652
... Timor Sea ... 677
... Mindanao, N. 519
... Nicobars ... 00
fPassage I., Sumatra, W. 84, 83, 99,
119
Passage Is. ... Borneo, W. 529
Passage Is. ... Dryon Straits 271
Passage Is. ... Sanir ... 561
Passages from India to Europe... 771
Passamane Bay, Sumatra, W. 93
Passangan R.& P., Sumatra, N. 221
Passao Point ... China, S. ... 421
Passeleurang Reef, Flores, N. 672
Passcnburgh I., Nangasaque Har. 509
Passier Grove ... Sumatra, N. 222
PassierLama ... Borneo, E. 544, 550
Pas^icr, Pulo ... .Sumatra, W. 95
fPassier R. & Town, Borneo, E. 556
PassigL ... Celebes. N. 560
*Passoo Keah I., . Paracels ... 359
Passurwang ... Java, E. 054, 656
*P;!ta-he-cock I., China, E. ... 437
806
PEP
Pata I. ... Sooloo Sra ... 518
Patani Pt. ... Gillolo I'as ... (i08
tPatani Ca. & Bay, Siam Gulf ... 318
Pata Point ... Luzon, \V. ... 496
*Patappan Piilo, Smula Strait... 138
*Pat-cho\v Is. ... JiipanSea ... 507
*Paternosters Great, Java Sea ... 059
*Pater Nosters Little, Macas. Str. 555,
548
Paterson Is. ... Now Caledonia 755
*Patientia Strait . Moluccas ... 695
Pa-tsze-keo I. ... China, E. ... 437
*Pattlc I. ... Paracels ... 358
Patty Port & Pt., Sumatra, W. 71, 72
Pauk-ibo ... Pescadore Is. 607
Pauk-|)yah I. ... Ciiina Sea 364, 384
Pauk-pj'ali R. ... Ditto ditto ... 419
Pauk-slia-oo ... China, S. ... 421
Paul Mountains, St. Banca I. ... 164
Paun-yang ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Payers ... Malacca Str. 230
1Peak Hill ... Ava C. ... 15
t Peaked L. ... Anambas ... 206
fPeaked I. ... Natunas ... 308
Peaked Mount, . Australia, E. 714
Pcarl& Hermes Reef, N.Pac. Oc. 771
Pearl Bank ... Sooloo Sea ... 518
Pearl 1. ... Tonking Gulf .348
Pearl Rock, Van Diemen Land 709
Pedada Bay ... Sunda Strait 138
Pedasse, Tanjong, Anambas ... 3C6
Pedir C. ... Sumatra, N... 220
*Pedir Point & Town, Ditto ditto (i6,
220
'Pcdra Branca ... China, S. ... 420
*Pedra Branca ... Singapore Str. 278,
283
Pedra Branca, Van Diemen L. ... 708
Ptdro-meo ... Macao ... 397
Pedro Point ... Sumatra, N. 02,220
Peel I. ... Benin Is. ... 510
Peelas I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 570
Peeloo Is. ... Pacific, N. ... 632
Peejow ... Aliass Strait . 002
liters lilalay Coast . 230
*PeguC.&R. ... Bengal Bay 19 to 25
Pehjabah Besar . Sumatra, W. . 76
Pehjabahls. ... Sumatra ... 72
*Pehne Is. ... Formosa Strait 506
*Pei-ho R. & Anchor., Pekin Gulf 462
Peking City ... China ... 463
Pelew-Gewen I., Martaban ... 25
Pelican Rock ... Chusan Is. ... 447
*Pcllew Is., N. Pacific Ocean... 632
*Pcnang Pulo, Malacca Str. 232, 286
'■■Pendulum Cove, S. Slietland ... 767
Peng-chow ... China, S. ... 414
Penguin I. ... Van Diemen La. 712
Penir Pulo, Sumatra, W. 123, 122
Penlease Mount, New S. Wales 743
*Pensylvania Reefs, China Sea ... 482
I'enoo Sumatra, W. . 110
Pepper Bay ... Java, N. ... 146
PIS
*Pera Pulo ... Malacca Str. 232,223
Perah Bank ... Malacca Strait 236
Perah C.& River, Ditto ditto 236,237
Perak R. ... Malacca Str. 237
i Perforated I. ... .Mergui Arch. 43
Perforated Rock, Ava ... 10
Perforated Rock, Cochin China . 340
Pergany Pulo, Sumatra, W. 100,101
Persaim R. ... Ava C. ... 17
Persian Gulf ... Arabia, E. ... 774
*Pescadore Is. ... China Sea ... 506
*Pesqueira Alto Point, Azores ... 779
Pe-tche-lee Gulf, China, E. ... 459
Petecallo, Pulo... Sumatra, W. 84
*PeterI. ... Southern Oc. 767
Peter I., St. ... Hainan ... 350
Petunga Point... Chittagong R. 4
Peurcos ... Manila Bay ... 478
Phaeton Shoal ... Ava ... 18
Phanran Bay & Harb., Cochin
China 336
Phanry Bay & R., Tsiompa ... 330
Philippine Is., Eastern Sea 567 to 582
Phillips Channel, Dryon Str. ... 209
Phoonga R. ... Queda C. ... 230
Phuiay Bay ... Tsiompa ... 329
•f-Phuyen Bay & Harb., Cochin China
341
Piapis Harbour . Waigiou, N. . 613
Pico de Ginetes, Azores ... 780
*Pico I. ... Ditto ... 779
*PierreI.St. ... Borneo, W. .311
Pierson Point, Van Diemen La. 712
f Pigeon House ... New S. Wales 721
f Pigeon I. ... Dampier Strait 619
Pigeon I. ... Moluccas ... 702
Pigeon I. Shoals, Dampier Str. 619
*Pigot Point, WaygiouE. 623,614,615
*Pih-keuen Shan, China, E. ... 434
*Pih-kwan Harbour, China, E. ... 436
Pilgrims ... Malacca Strait 229
tPillarCa. ... VanDiemenL. 713
Pillar Rock ... Ava ... 16
Pillilewl. ... N.Pacific Ocean633
Pilot Cotta Creek, Chittagong C. 3
*Pincs L ... S Pacific Oc. 756
tPinc Tree L ... Mergui, C. ... 41
Pingey I. ... Sumatra, W. . 123
*Ping-fun-slian Is., China, E. ... 436
Ping-hoi ... China, S. ... 417
Ping-hu-heen ... China, E. ... 453
i Pinnacle Rock Calamianes ... 578
*PinnunkoI. ... Token Besseys 601
Pingue I. ... Luzon, W. ... 495
PioQuinto (San) Port, Babuyan Is. 499
Pi-pa-chow ... China, S. ... 370
PirockaL ... Token Besseys 601
Pisang Banks, Malacca Str. 259, 649
Pisang Pulo ... Banda Is. ... 702
IPisangPulo ... China Sea ... 312
•Pisang Pulo ... Gillolo Passage 606
* Pisang Pulo, Malacca Str. 259,285
•Pisang Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 111,96
PRA
*Pitt Mount ... Norfolk L ... 758
Pitt Passage, Moluccas 602, to 605,
585, 641
Pitt Str. New Guin. W. 624 to 627,
616
Pitt Strait ... Solomon Is. ... 757
Pitt Water ... Van Diemen L. 713
Plantain I. ... Mergui ... 33
Playa Honda ... Luzon, W. ... 493
*Pleasant I. ... Pacific Ocean 760
Ploughman I. ... Chusan Is. ... 439
Pocking-han ... Canton R. ... 377
Pocklington Bank, Pacific ... 751
Po, Oojong ... Sumatra ... 69
fPoggy, N. ... Sumatra, W. 126
*Poggy, S. ... Ditto ditto ... 127
Point Arthur, Van Diemen Land 710
Polaris Is. ... Corea, S. ... 471
Policy ... Sumatra, W. . 105
Pollock Cove ... Mindanao ... 564
fPolo I. ... Luzon, E. ... 523
*PonchangCacheel,TappanoolyBay 87
Ponchang Gadang, Ditto ditto 87
Pondicherry Passage, Andamans 49
*Pondy I. ... Madura Bay . 650
Pong-hou Is. ... Formosa Strait 506
Pong-lieu Town, Formosa C. ... 505
fPongoh Pulo ... Gaspar Straits 184
Ponigh Pulo ... Banca, E. ... 193
iPonkan R. ... Formosa, W. . 505
Pontangh Point, Bantam Bay ... 150
Pontangh Pulo, Sunda Strait 143,149
*Poniiana R. ... Borneo, W. . 527
Pon-tse-shan ... Chusan Is. ... 443
Poochoon I. ... Tavay C. ... 27
PoogahsePulo... Sumatra, W. . 74
tPoogongMount&Pt.,Sumatra,W. Ill
Poojoor L ... Banca, N.E. .191
Pooloo Bay ... Ditto ditto 108,106
Pooni, Tanjong, Banca ... 173
Poonooboo Pulo, Sumatra, E. ... 200
Poonyabang ... Banca, W. ... 175
Pootchoonl. ... Martaban ... 28
*Poo-to I. ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Pootoy I., China, S. 392, 387, 394
*Popa"Pulo ... Pitt Passage . 618
Pora North ... Sumatra, W. . 123
Pora South ... Sumatra, W. . 125
fPorian I & Reef, Ava, C. 17, 19,21
Porian Point ... Ava II. 17, 19
Portland Bill & Race, Engla. S 784
fPortland Ca., VanDiemenLa. 715
fPortlock Reef, Torres Str. ... 737
Portuguese Bay, Amboina ... 700
Possession I. ... Torres Strait . 741
Post Horse ... Celebes Sea ... 670
Postillions, Ditto ditto 659, 588, 643
*Potbaker I. ... Moluccas ... 694
Potoel. ... China, S. 378,373
iPotol Point ... Panay, W. ... 573
fPotter I. ... Moluccas ... 695
Pratas Shoal & I. China Sea .302, 477
*Prauhilah Point, Sumatra, N. 223
QUO
•Praya Port ... Azores ... 780
Praya Sand &R.,PrinceofWalesI. 235
Predpriatije I., Pacific Ocean . 703
*PreparisI.i:Reef,BengalB. 18,22,23,46
Preservation I., BassStrait ... 719
fPriaman Is.& R., Sumatra, W. 94, 95
*Price Cape ... Andaman, N. . 49
Princes I. ... Dryon Straits 211
*Prince ofWales Bank, ChinaSea 485
*Princeof'Wales I., Malacca Str. 232,45
*Prince of Wa. Group, Torres Str. 736
Princes I. &Strait,SundaStr. 143,144
136, 180
tPring ... Sumatra,W.... 110
tPrintian Pulo ... Siani Gulf ... 317
Prosperous Bay, St. Helena ... 776
ProutePulo ... Banca, N. ... 193
♦Providence Is. . Pacific Ocean 630
*Pruysen's Droogte, Java Sea ... 158
Psyche Channel, Mindanao, N. . 520
Puercos Is. ... Manila Bay... 478
Pulanguiain ... Luzon, W. ... 494
Pulo (an Island). — Places joined to
the word Ptt/o, will be found under
the name to which it is prefixed.
Ex : Pulo Penang under the word
Penang.
Punyosoo Pulo, Banca, N. ... 193
Punyosoo, Tanjong, Banca, N. . ib.
PurmerantReef<&I.,Batavia Road 151
Pyramid ... Cheduba ... 12
Pyramid I. ... China Sea 333, 536
t Pyramid I. ... Cochin China 339
Pyramid Peak . Bashee Is. ... 501
Pyramid Point . China, S. ... 418
♦Pyramid Rock, Paracels ... 358
Pyramidal Rocks, Low, Natunas 308
Pyramidal Rock, Sooloo Sea ... 569
Q.
*Quala Bubon ... Sumatra, N. . 224
Quala Lambassoa,Sumatra, W. . 69
QuallaBatoo ... Ditto ditto ... 79
Quan-ngai R. ... Cochin China 344
Quarido I. ... Waygiou Is. 612
fQueda, ... Malacca Str.46, 230
•^Qu. Charlotte Foreland, N. Caledo-
nia 757
Queen .Mount . Malacca ... 66
*Queen JNiountain, Sumatra, N. 256
*Quekrai Ca. & Pagoda, Martaban 26
*Quelpoert I. ... Japan Sea ... 471
Quemoy ... China, E. 427, 431
*Que-san Is. ... Ditto ditto ... 437
Quinalazag I. ... Philippines 523
Quinga-chin ... China, E. ... 424
Quinhone City cS: H., Cochin Ch. 343
*Quiniluban I. ... Mindora Sea 574
Qui-quick Port, Cochin China 345
Quod Cape ... Magellan Str. 768
Quoin ... Borneo, W. ... 534
REE
Quoin ... China, S. ... 368
Quoin ... Mergui C. ... 44
Quoin ... Petcheelee G. 464
Quoin Hill ... Nicobar Is. ... 57
Quoin Hill ... Ava C. ... 14
Quoin Hill ... Java, N. ... 648
tQuoin Hill ... Natuna Great 307
Quoin I., Kyouk Phyoo Harbour 10
tQuoin I. ... Nicobars ... 57
Quoin I. ... Passage Is. ... 5G1
R.
Rabbit I. ... Balabac Strait 515
Rabbit I. ... Sangir I. ... 561
Rabbit I., Singapore Str. 266, 285
Racatt Point &- Sh., Sumatra, W. 90
Race of Alderiiey, England, S 784
Race of Negrais, Bengal Bay... 18
Race of Portland, England, S. ... 784
*Rachado Ca., Malacca Strait 253, 285
*Rackit Pulo ... Java, N. ... 646
*Ragged I. ... China Sna ... 201
Ragged I. ... Singapore Str. 284
Ragged Is. ... Andaman Great 49
♦Ragged Is. ... Palawan, N. 489
Ragged Point & Sh., Borneo, E. 553
Rahnoo ... Sumatra, W. 73
Rahnoo Nearu ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
*Raixie's Islet ... Barrier Reefs 687
*l{ajali Bassa, Sunda Str. 138, 137, 180
Rajah Oojong, Sumatra, VV. 79,78,86
Rajah Point ... Sumatra ... 220
* Rajah Pulo ... Junkseylon 44, 45
*Rakan River ... Sumatra, N. 225
*Rambang ... Java, N. ... 645
* Ram Head ... New S. Wales 720
Ramio Pulo, Malacca Strait 232, 235
Ramoo Creek ... Chittagong C. I
Rararee I. & Har., Aracan C. 11, 9
Rangas Pulo ... Sumatra, VV. 74
Ranger Ledge ... Andaman, N. 49
Rangoon City ... Pegu 22 to 25
Rangoon, Passages to and from... 22
Rangoon R. .., Pegu 19 to 25
*Ranto\v Pulo ... Sumatra, N. 226
Raoul Ca., Van Diemen Land 712
fRatl., Sumatra, W. 107, 109
Ratta Pulo ... Malacca Str. 237
Rawak Pulo & Har., Waygiou, N. 614
*Reccan R. ... Sumatra, N. 225
♦Recherche Bay, Van Diemen La. 708
fRedangls. ... Siam Gulf ... 317
Red Cliff's ... Singapore I. 270
|Red Crab I.&Reef, Chittagong C. 1 to 4
Red L ... Bouro Bay 696
Red I., Dryon Straits 208, 207
Red L ... Malacca Road 256
Red I. ... Singapore Str. 264
♦Red Point, New South Wales 721
Red Sea ... Arabia, W. 774
Reef I. ... Andaman Great 49
ROD
807
ReefL
Reef I.
Reeburgh Fort,
Rees Bay
Rees Passage ..
Sumatra, E. 205
Tavay R. 29, 30
^Moluccas ... 694
Sapy Strait ... 666
China, S. ... 425
Refreshment Head, Sunda Str. 138
* Refuge Port, Borneo Coral Isles 131
Regewin I. ... Pitt's Strait 625
Reguain I. ... Cheduba ... 12
fReid Rocks ... Bass Strait ... 718
*Reirson I. ... Pacific Ocean 763
Reliance Rock ... Kyouk Phyoo 10
*Rembang ... Java, N. ... 648
*Rendezvous I. ... Borneo, S. ... 530
Rennell Is. ... Pacific ... 750
Renyang Pulo ... Sunda Strait 143
Repon Pulo ... Anambas ... 305
Research Rock, Aracan C. ... 10
Research Strait, Aracan ... 8
Respondy I. ... Java Sea ... 651
Revenge Strait, New Gui., W. 585
tRhio Strait, Baintang, W. 202, 201
Rhun Pulo ... Banda Is. ... 703
Riabou Pulo ... .\nambas ... 306
Riah Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 70
Riclie Point, Van Diemen Land 712
Richmond Is. ... Bashee Is. ... 500
Ridge Shoal, British Channel ... 785
Riedle Bay, Van Diemen's Land 714
Rigas Harbour, Sumatra, W. ... 75
Rigas Is. ... Sumatra, W. 74
Rigas Hill ... Ditto ditto ... 76
Rigas Point ... Sumatra, W. 73
Rijutan I. ... Babuyanes ... 498
Riow I. ... Moluccas ... 565
Risdon Cove, Van Diemen Land 713
f Rittan Pulo ... Anambas ... 305
*Rivers Ca. ... Celebes, N. 552
Roang Is. ... Ditto ditto ... 560
Roben I., ... Sunda Strait 149
Robbin I., ... Port St. Vincent756
♦Robert I. ... Paracels ... 358
Robert Passage, Chusan Is. ... 440
Robert Shoal, Banca 1. ... 191
*Rob Roy Reef, China Sea ... 483
fRockboR. ... TonkingGulf 347
Rocky Ca. ... Van DiemenLa.718
rRocky I. ... China Sea ... 304
Rocky I. ... Cochin China 344
*Rocky L ... Gillolo Passage 609
* Rocky I. ... Paracels ... 358
Rocky Is. ... Allass Strait 660
Rocky Point Bay, Aracan C. ... 10
Rocky Point ... Caspar Str. ... 181
Rocky Point ... Hainan ... 350
Rocky Point ... Malaya, E. ... 317
Rocky Point ... Sumatra, N. 221
Rocky Point, New South Wales 721
*Rotky Point ... Sumbawa, N. 664
* Rocky Point, Van Diemen La. 707
Rocky Sh. ... Pitt Str. ... 826
Roderigue I. ... Indian Ocean 772
Rodong Pulo ... China Sea ... 202
808
RUT
Uoebanjj ... Java, N. ... 647
*Roe Bank ... Ik-ngnl Bay ... 42
Rogewyn I. ... Pitts Strait ... 625
+ Roina'l. ... Timor Sea ... 678
fRomania Is. i- Point, Singapore
Str. 275
Romania Reef... Ditto ditto 277, 283
* Rondo Pnlo ... Achen Is. ... 62
Roosa Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 68
Roqiiit Piilo ... Sumatra ... 224
Roosoocan Is. ... Borneo Road 525
Roosum, Pulo... Sumatra, W. 74, 76
Ros;igalet ... Flores, N. ... 672
Rose Passage ... Mergui Arcliipel.41
Rosingeyn I. ... Banda Is. ... 703
Rossel Bay ... Waygiou I. ... 613
Robsel I. ... Pacific ... 751
Ross I. ... Andrimans ... 51
Rossi.... ... Borneo Coral 131
Ross R. ... Borneo, S. ... 541
•f- Ross Sand ... Martaban ... 28
Rotterdam Castle Macassar ... 550
Rotterdam I. ... Batavia Road 155
Rotterdam I. ... Celebes Sea... 588
Rotta Malacca Strait 230
*RottiI. ... Timor Sea ... 6S2
Rotto I. ... Timor Sea ... ib.
*Rotumah Island ... ... 760
Round Arroa I., Malacca Str. 238
Roundabout I. ... Cliusan Is. ... 443
Round Brother, Dryon Straits 209
fllound Cape ... Ava, W. 15, 16
Round Fort ... China, E. ... 458
Round Harbour, Mysole, N. ... 617
tHound Hill ... Ava C. ... 15
Round Hill Point V.D. L;:nd ... 718
*Round I. ... Andamans ... 53
Round I. ... Cheduba 11, 12
Round I. Catwick, China Sea ... 334
Round I. ... China, S. ... 368
Round I. ... NamoaHnr.... 369
Round I. ... Port St Vincent 756
Round I. ... Singapore Str. 264
Round Tree I. ... China, E. ... 458
*Koupat Pulo ... Sumatra, N.... 226
Kouquit Pulo ... Ditto ditto ... 224
Rouse Harb. ... Chusan Is. ... 439
*Ro\al Bibhop Bank, China Sea 326
Royal liishop Shoal, Sumatra, W. 89
*Royal Captain Shoal, China Sea 487
*RoyaI Ciiarlotte Shoal, Ditto do. 486
tRoyalGeorgeShoal. MacassarStr. 647
Royal Sovereigns Shoal Brit.Chan. 785
*Roxburgb I. ... Pacific Ocean 763
Ruba Point ... Azores ... 779
Rugged Point ... Sumbawa, N. 664
+ IJuibI. ... Waygiou, W. 611
Rumbeeah, Tanjong, Lomhock Str.
657
*Rusa Linguete, Flores, N. ...672
*RusaRaji ... Ditto ditto ... 671
Russell. ... Tavay C. 40,42
fRutland I. Andaman Great 52, 51
SAM
Eyah Tanjong... Banca,E. 192, 191
Rygersdaal Shoal, Batavia Road 154
Rynland Shoal, Batavia Rd. 155, 156
Saba Bay ... Savu I. ... 684
Sabadda Pulo ... Sumatra, W. . 101
SabonHill ... Sabon I. ... 210
Sabon I. & Strait, Sumatra, E. . 207
Sabrina I. ... Azores ... 780
Sabtang I. ... Bashees ... 501
Sa-chowl. ... China, S. ... 425
Saddle I. ... Anambas ... 305
*Saddle I. ... Aracan 9, 10, 11
•[Saddle I. ... China, E. ... 454
Saddle I. ... China Sea 201,304
Saddle I. ... Flores, W. ... 667
Saddle I. ... Gaspar Straits 183,
185
*Saddle I. ... Hainan ... 355
Saddle I. ... Mergui Is. ... 43
*Saddle I. ... Natunas ... 307
Saddle I. ... Near Bintang 284
Saddle I. ... Singapore Str. 284
Saddle I. ... Sumatra, W. 68
^Saddle Mountain, Andaman Great 50
Saddle Peak ... Chusan Is. ...448
Saddle Point ... St Helena ... 776
Safety Cove ... Storm Bay ... 712
*SaflanafI. ... Celebes Sea . 589
Sagewyn Strait, Moluccas ... 621
Sagor Sand ... Hoogly R. ... 5
Sahul Banks ... Timor Sea ... 678
*Saia Pulo ... Sumatra, E. ... 198
*Sai-gon R. & City,Cambodia 327,322
*Sail Rock ...Hainan 351,355
Sail Rock ... Rlindora Strait 578
S lingbain-kieu Rocks, Ava ... 16
Salamander Bay, New S.Wales 726
Salanania Pulo, Malacca Strait 228
*Salang I. ... Bengal Bay ... 45
*Salangore ... Malacca Strait 247
*Salatan Point ... Borneo, S. 541, 646
Salat Battoo Baloo, Singapore . 271
Salat Padang ... Sumatra, N. . 226
Salat Panjaug ... Sumatra, E. 226,207
Salat Ringlt ... Sumatra, N. . 226
Salawatty I., New Guinea, W. 624
*Salayer I. & Straits, Celebes, S. 592,
595, 596, 643
Saleyra Pulo k Bay, Java, N. 149
*Salibaboo Is. ... Mindanao, S. . 562
S-ilingsinganI.,BalabacStraits 514,515
S.dlee Strait ... Sumbavva, N. 663
Sdleeolakit I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 567
Salomague Bay & Gap,Luzon,W. 495
Salook Pulo, Singapore Strait ... 271
Saloomale ... Sumatra, W. . 110
Salsee R. ... Sumatra, E. . 173
Salt R. ... Ditto ditto ... ib.
Sama Bay & Town, Hainan, S . 349
SAN
Samah Duah ... Sumatra, W. . 80
Samanap Town . Jladura, E. . 650
Samanky Pulo . Sumatra, W. . 102
*Samarang & Bay, Java, N. 647, 645
*SamarI. ... Philippines ... 521
Sambar, Tanjong, Borneo, \V. 528,530
* Sambas R. ... Borneo, W. ... 526
SambatBay&R., Sumatra, W.... HI
Sambelangan ... Sumatra, N. ... 221
*Sambilangs ... Nicobars 55,60
*Sambilangs ... MalaccaStr.237,286
Sambo, Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 92
*Samboangan ... Mindanao ... 5*18
SambooricoPulo, Sunda Strait . 142
Sam-chow I. ... China, S. ... 373
Sam-chow-tong Bay, China, S. . 371
Sam-cock 1. ... Canton R. ... 379
Sam-cock I. ... China, S. ... 372
Sam-coke I. ... Ditto ditto ... 419
Sam-moon Is. ... Ditto ditto ... 3S8
Samay Bay ... Tonking Gulf 349
Sammote, Pulo . Sumatra, W. . 74
Sampan Chow . Canton R. ... 401
Sampanmangio, Tanjong, Borneo,
N. 612
Sam-sah Is. & Town, China, E. 435
Samsa, Ca. ... Celebes, W. ... 551
Samsamal. ... Pulo Nyas ... 121
Sancori Pulo ... Siam Gulf ... 319
fSandakan Biiy... Borneo, E. ... 516
♦Sandalwood I.... Timor Sea ... 668
tSandana Ca.& Mount, Java, E.... 653
*Sandbuy Shoals, Sumbawa, N. . 644
*Sandoway Rd.&Town, .Aracan 13,12
Sand Patches ... Leatong G. ... 469
Sandwich Cape, New SouthWales 744
Sandwich Land, Southern Ocean 764
Sandy Bay ... St. Helena ... 777
*Sandy Ca. ... New South W. 727
Sandy Entrance Pt., Chittagong 1
Sandy I. & Point, Ava C. ... 15
Sandy I. ... Cochin China 346
Sandy I. ... Engano I. ... 130
Sandy I. Gaspar Straits 183, 185
Sandy Point, Kyouk-Phyoo Harb. 9
Sandy I. ... Sumatra, W. . 103
Sandy I. ... Timor, W. ... 681
Sandy Point ... Hainan, S. ... 350
Sandy Point, New South Wales 744
Sandy Point, Singapore I... 270
*Sandy Point, Van Diemen Land 703
Sangald Rock ... Jlalacca Strait 23;i
fSangboysIs. ... Sooloo Sea ... 570
Sangeegee ... Lombock Strait6o7
*Sangir I. ... Mindanao, S. 560
fSangkow Bay ... China, E. ... 459
Sanglar Pulo ... Sumatra, E. . 206
Sanguey I. ... iMindanao, S. 5ij0
*San-ho Ca. ... Cochin China 343
Sanloan Meyeet, Martaban ... 25
*San-luen R. ... Martaban ... 25
*San-pan-shan I. . China, E. ... 430
San Pio Quinto Pt., Babuyanes I. 199
SEA
Sanjavaj' R. ... Borneo, W. ... 528
San-slian-tow I. . Leatong G. ... 470
Santa Cruz ... Azores ... 779
Santa Cruz ... Luzon, W. ... 493
*SantaCruzI. ... Pacific Ocean 757
Santa Cruz Is ... Mindanao, S. 5G8
Santa Cruz Point, Mindora, W. 579
Santa Izabel ... Solomon Is. . 757
*Santia<To Point, Luzon, S. 492, 522
San VizentePort, Ditto, N. ... 497
Saouni Port ... Waygiou I. ... 614
Saparooa ... Moluccas ... 701
Sapata L ... Malacca Strait 229
*Sapata Pulo ... China Sea 332,322
Sapy Bay & Town, Sumbawa, E. ()65
Sapy Strait ... Ditto ditto 643,064
to 667
' Saradong Pulo... Sunda Strait 137
Sarah Galley I. & Pass., Chusanls.442,
444
Sarah's Bosom, Lord Auckland Is. 770
Sarasat Pulo ... Sunda Strait 138
Sark I. Queen Charlotte Is. 760
Satalon' ... Allass Strait 662
Satellite I., Van Diemen Land... 712
tSatellite Rock ... Ava, W. ... 14
Satellite Shoal... Rotto Is. ...683
Satisfaction I. ... Pacific ... 751
Sato Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 95, 97
Sat-tye Bay ... China, S. ... 371
Saumarez Shoals S Pacific Oc. 731
Savages ... Aracan R. ... 7
*Savu I. ... ... Timor Sea ... 684
*Sawa Bay& Town, Cerara, N.698, 699
Sawang... ... Sumatra, N. 221
f Saw-chow ... Canton R. ... 384
Saw-lowang Bay Ditto ditto ... 382
Sawshee Hill ... Ditto ditto ... 406
Sayer Is. ... Tanasserim C. 44, 43
*Saypan Is. ... Marian Is. ... 636
Saytan Pulo &- Harb. Sumatra, W. 101
'Scarborough Shoal, China Sea... 361
Scharvogel Is. ... Billiton I. ... 538
Schiedam I. ... Batavia Road 153
Schiedam Is. Celebes Sea 643, 669
♦Schiedam Shoal Ditto ditto ... 669
Schilder Shoal... Lombock, N. 658
Schouten I. ... New Guinea 629
fSchouten I. ... Van Diemen Land
715
*Scilly Is. ... British Chan. 783
Scotch Bonnet... Timor Sea ... 683
tScott I. ... BorneoCoralls. 131
Sea Altar L ... China, E. ... 433
*Sea Flower Channel, Sumatra, W. 124
Sebadies ... Sumatra W.... 82
*Sea Horse Bank, China Sea 482, 489
Seao-keu-shan ... Chusan Is. ... 444
*Seaon-mun Passage, China, E ... 435
Seao-Pe-pa-shan I., China, E. ... 436
Sea Rock ... Sunda Str. ... 142
Seaw'ay Is. ... Arafura Sea... 685
VOL. II.
SER
*Se Beeroo I. & Channel, Sumatra,
W. 123, 121
Sebese Pulo ... Sunda Strait 138
fSebooko Pulo ... Sunda Strait 142
Sechel. ... Cochin China 339
*Se Cockup R. & Strait, Sumatra,
VV. 126, 127
fSecond Bar,
fSecond Point ...
fSecond Point ..
Second Reach ..
Secooniet Point
Sedana Ca.
Sedaiiap Pulo ..
Sedang Bay
Canton R. 407, 408
Sumatra
Sunda Strait
Callam Strait
Sumatra, W.
Java E.
Nationas
Borneo, W. .
*Sedary Point & Shoal, Java, N.
"I'Sededap Pulo ... Natunas
Sedre Passage
*Seeal Point
Seegarra Village
Achen Is.
Ceram W.
170
146
249
111
653
307
526
645
307
63
698
Allass Str. 661, 662
Seeroodoot, Pulo, Sumatra, W. ,
Seery Pulo
*Seeseeran Port..
Seetacoon Hill,
Segar
Se Gere Pulo ..
Borneo VV. ...
Luzon, E.
Chittagong C.
Allass Strait
Sumatra, W.
87
529
523
4
661
125
120
393
Seirombo R. &• Bay, Ditto ditto
*Sei-tam-mee I., China, S.
Se Labba Bay, Sumatra, W. 1:^6, 125
Selouan I. ... Natunas ... 308
Selamata Channel, Anambas ... 306
Se Laubo Laubo, Sumatra, W. 126
Selat Sink! ... Singapore ... 271
Se Leaga I. & Bay, Sumatra, W. 85
Selema ... Ceram, N. ... 698
Selinsing I. ... Lingin I. ... 200
Selloo Goolumpung, Sumatra, W. 73
*Selma New ... Borneo Coral Is.l32
*Selonda I., Sumbawa, N. ... 643
Semanko Bay & Peak, Sumatra, S.136
Semao I. & Strait, Timor, W.
Semarang & Bay, Java, N.
*Semione I. ... Natunas
Senappoo Pulo, Sumatra, N.
Senaro Pulo ... Sumatra, W.
Senoubing Tanjong, Natunas .,
Se Oban Bay, Sumatra, W. .
Seon-ping-tao ... Leatong G. .,
Seo-tan 1. ... Amoy H. .,
Separooa Village, Molucca
*Se Pora I.
Serah Pulo
*Serangani Is.
Serassa Pulo
Serbette I.
Seriguy I.
Sermatta I.
*Seroa I.
Sermatta I.
Seronda Pulo
682,
681
647
307
227
ion
307
125
469
428
702
125
205
Ditto ditto
... Sumatra, E
& Point, Mindanao,
S. 562
Sumatra, W. 126
Flores Strait 675
Sunda Strait 146
Serwatty Is. 686
Timor Sea ... ib.
Ditto ditto ... i/i.
Sumatra, VV. 100
SIL
809
Serra I.
Serwatty Is.
Sesson Pulo
*Seven Is.
f Seven Is.
i Severn Shoal
*Seyer Is.
Sey-ho Point
... Timor Laut Is. 688
... Ditto ditto ... 685
... MalaccaStrait 233
... Banca, N. ... 198
... Macassar Strait 552
... Banca, E. ... 189
... Bengal Bay 36,43
... China, S. ... 364
Shaftesbury Reef, Sumatra, W. 90
Shahbunder Shoal, Sumatra, E. 161
Shakbroage Hill, Chittagong 4
Shala I. ... Cochin China 339
Sha-long-tow ... China, S. ... 420
*Sha-loo-poo-tien Is., Pekin Gulf 464
Sha-luy-poo-tien Is., Pekin, G. ib.
Shambles ... BritishChannel 785
f Shanipee Is. ... Gillolo, E. ... 608
Shan-hae-Channel, China, E. 453, 454
Shan-hae R. City ... 454, 453
Shang Meisham, Chusan Is. 441,440
*Shang-tung Prom., China, E. ... 459
tShaporee I. ... Aracan ... 6
Shawaishan I. ... China, E. ... 455
*Sha-wei-shan I., China, E. 454, 455
Shark I. ... Port Jackson 724
Shaw-Hormazier's Route ... 735
*Shei-poo Harbour, China, E. ... 436
Shelter I. ... China Sea ... 315
Sheppey I. ... Chusan Is. 449,451
♦Sherburne Shoal, New Ireland 753
*Shetland South, Southern Ocean 764
Shittoe Bay & Po., China S. ... 371
Shoal Ca. ... Torres Strait 743
Shoal Point ... Derwent R. ... 713
*Shoal Point ... Macassar Strait 553
tShoal Water Is., Gaspar Strait 185,
537
*Shoe I., Billiton, S. 185, 195, 536, 537
*Shoe I ... China Sea ... 333
Shoe I. ... Waygiou, N. 613
Shore Rock ... St. Helena ... 777
•Siak R. & Town, Sumatra, E. 227, 207
Siam Gulf ... China Sea ... 318
*Siam R.&Bar... Siam Gulf ... 319
f Siantann Channel, Anambas ... 306
Siantan Pulo ... Anambas ... ih.
*Siao I. ... Celebes, N. ... 560
Siao-kau ... Chusan Is. ... 446
Siao-sha-ao ... Chusan 446, 448
*Siaton Point ... Negros I. ... 572
Sibago I. ... Baseelan Strait 567
*Sibbald Bank, Celebes Sea ... 588
Siddo Harb. & Point, Sumatra, V\^ 68
Sidmouth Rock, Van Diemen La. 708
* Sidney Cove cS: Town, Port Jackson
724 722
*Sidney Shoal ... S. Pacific Oc' 75i
Sig-boye I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
Siggen Point ... Sumatra, W^. 112
Signal I. ... Singapore ... 269
"[Silangin Bay ... Luzon, \V. ... 492
Silinpl. ... Mindanao N. 519
O L
810
Sillaloo Rock
Sillebar R.
Silorongang
Silver I.
Simbang Pulo,
Siniirara Is.
Sinay I.
SOL
Sumatra, W. 112
Ditto ditto ... ll^S
Pulo Nyas ... 120
Ciiusan Is. ... 44+
Banca, N. ... 193
Mindora, S 575
Luzon, W. ... 496
Sindangan Bay, Mindanao ... 572
Singapore L & Str., Malaya, E. 264
° ' to 282, 284
Singapore Old Str., Johore 263 to 282
«Singapore Town & Road ^69, 270, 285
Sindangan Bay, Mindanoa, W. 527
Sing-kea-moon, Chusan 446, 451
Sing-kong ... Chusan 447, 446
•Single I. ... China S. 415, 414
Sing-lo-shan I., Chusan Is. ...440
Sing-shee-moon, Ditto ditto 392, 391
tSinkel R. ... Sumatra, W. 85, 99
Sinkep Pulo ... Sumatra, E. 200
Sintodo I. ... Sapy Strait ... 665
Sipaca Point ... Mindanao, N. 519
Sipsipa, L ... Waygiou N. 613
Sir Charles Hardy's I., Barrier
Reefs, 739, 741, 745
*Sir James Hall's Group, Corea 470
*Sir Jas. Saumarez Shoal, Pac. Oc. 731
*Sirian River ... Pegu, C. ... 20
Sisor Tanjong . Borneo, W 526
•Sisters ... Andamans ... 53
♦Sisters ... Bass Strait ... 719
Sisters ... China S. ... 425
Sisters ... Luzon, W. ... 493
Sisters ... Mergui, Is. ... 39
Sisters ... Singapore ... 272
f Sisters Peak ... Celebes, N. 559
Sisters Shoal ... Banca, I. ... 191
Sisters Three ... Sunda Strait 160
Sitoe Ca. ... Sumatra, W. 83
SittangR. .. Pegu ... 21
Sizan Point ... Malacca Strait 258
Skelton L ... GreyhoundsStr.603
Skirmish Point . Australia ... 727
Ske-lu-moon ... Chusan Is. ... 446
Sky-windRock . Hainan ... 351
tSlackooRoad ... Borneo, W. ... 527
*Sliar Pulo ... Sumatra, E. ... 200
Slipper I. ... Bengal Bay ... 46
Slipper I. .. Malacca Strait 228
Sloping I., Van Diemen Land ... 714
Small Bar ... Canton R. ... 404
Small Cap. L ... Sunda Strait . 148
SmallCooleyPole, China Sea ... 393
Smooth I., Van Diemen Land ... 714
Snake L ... Sunda Str. ... 148
Snake I. ... Singapore Str. 273
tSnares Is. ... New Zealand . 771
Snug Cove ... Australia ... 720
Socko-chow ... Canton R. ... 381
•fSojoton Point ... Negroes I. ... 572
Sokum Pulo ... Samatra, VV. 86,98
Solander Point... Australia ... 721
SOU
♦Solitary Is. ... Australia ... 730
Soldier Point ... PiTt Stephens 726
*Soloan I. ... Mindanao, N. 519
*Solonibo Great... Java Sea ... 587
Solombo Little... Ditto ditto ... ib.
* Solomon Is., S. Pacific Ocean
750, 757
Solon Solon Bay, Luzon, W. ... 495
Solor I. & Strait, TimorSea ... 674
*Sombreiro Chan., Nicobars 59,218
iSombrero Rock, Philippines ... 574
Son & Father, Is., Mergui Is. ... 38
Sonchee Point... China, E. ... 432
*Song-mun-shan, I., China, E. ... 436
Songy Booloo ... Banca, N. ... 193
SongyLamoRock,Sumatra,W 109
Songy LamoPoint,Ditto ditto ... 105
Songy Lampoon, Java, N. ... 153
tSongy Leat Bay, Banca, F. ... 192
Songy-Lidang Bay, Sumatra, E. 225
*.Song-yue Point, China, S. ... 365
*Sonrol L ... N. Pacific Oc. 632
SontelandsRotzen Sh., Salayer,W.595
Soogee Pulo ... Durian Str. ... 206
Soobahng.Oojong, Sumatra, W... 69
Soobahng, Looncarp, Sumatra, W. ib.
Sooloo Archipelago, Sooloo Sea . 516
*SooIooI. ... Sooloo Sea ... 517
*Soong ... Sooloo, I. ... ib.
Soongey Peenang Bay, Sumatra, W.
101
Soongey Peesang Bay, Sumatra,
W. ib.
Soon-koo L ... China, S. ... 392
Sooroodunge ... Sumatra, W... 80
*Soosoo Bay & Town, Sumatra, W. 79,
66, 99
SootooPulo ... Rhio Strait ... 202
*Sorell Cape ... Port Macquarie706
Sorell Port, Van DiemenL. 717, 706
SorsogonHarbour,Luzon, S. 522, 521
Sortie Cape, Van Diemen L. 712, 713
Soudeeang ... Allass Strait... 662
Sound I. ... Andaman Great 48
♦Sourabaya ... Java, E. ... 648
Souroutou I. ... Borneo,W. 532,534
SouthBreakerSjFortMarlborough 106
fSoutli Brother... Dryon Straits 206
South Ca. ... Formosa ... 504
South Ca. ... Malay, E. ... 316
♦South Ca. ... Van DiemenL. 707
South Channel... Balabac Straits 515
South Channel... Singapore Str. 281
South Harb. ... China ... 423
South-east Ca... Van DiemenL. 707
South Haycock I., Natunas ... 310
*South Head ... Port Jackson . 723
South Head ... Lea-tong ... 467
South L& Reef Singapore Str. . 276
•South I. ... Bouton I. ... 598
South L ... China Sea ... 201
South L ... Engano ... 130
sue
tSouth I.
South L
South I.
*South I.
fSouth I.
South L
South Natunas
South Patch .
*South Port
South Reach .
South Sands .
Caspar Straits 183,
185
Japan Sea ... 510
LeatongG. ... 471
Natunas ... 310
Pantar Strait . 677
Salayer Strait 595
China Sea ... 309
Chittagong, C. 2
Van DiemenL. 708
Callam Strait 250
Malacca Str. 242,
285
South Watcher . Tonking G. ... 347
South Watcher . Java, N. ... 157
*South-eastCa.,Van DiemenLand 707
South-east Harbour,Poggy, I. ... 127
South-east Hump, Mergui, Is. ... 41
South-east I. ... Madura, E. ... 651
South-east Pass . Chusan Is. ... 441
South-west Cape, VanDiemen La. 707
fSouth-west I. ... Natunas ... 308
South-westRocks, Singapore Str. 278
South Woody I., Surigao Bay . 520
Sovel L ... Cochin China 347
Sow I. ... Sumatra, W. . 95
Sow & Pigs . . . Port Jackson . 723
Speke Rock ... Sumatra, E. ... 205
Spencer Ca., New Guinea,W.627, 628
Spermonde Archipel., Celebes, W. 550
SperryLedge& Rock, St. Helena 776
Stags Rocks ... British Chan. 783
•Stags Shoal ... China Sea ... 484
Starboard Jack... Chusan Is. ... 438
Start Point ... England,S. 784,785
Staten Island ... Terra del Fuego 768
fStead Passage . Barrier Reefs . 746
*Steenboom Cape, N. Guinea ... 690
Steep I. ... Mergui ... 40
Steep Point ... Java, S. ... 134
*StephenCape&Port, Australia ... 726
fStephen Is. ... Pacific Ocean 630
Steward I. ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Steward Is., Pacific Ocean. ... 760
*Stewart Har. ... Van DiemenL. 712
Stick Rock ... Sumatra, W... 81
Still I. ... Aracan ... 11
Stokong, Pulo... Natunas ... 307
Stole High Land, Ceram, N. ... 699
Stony Head ... Van DiemenL. 715
Stony Hill Point, Van Diemen L. 714
Stony I. ... AchenHead... 63
Storm Bay, Van Diemen L.712, 713,
714
StormBay Passage, Van DiemenL. 709
Strait Channel . Chusan Is. ... 443
Stroom Rock ... Sunda Strait.., 143
StruysBay ... Africa, S. ...775
Stuart Sound ... Andaman Great 50
SualPort ... Luzon, W. ... 494
tSubic Bay ... Ditto ditto ... 492
fSuccadana ... Borneo, W.... 528
TAB
*Success Breakers, Natunas ... 307
Sueclian ... Canton, R. ... 402
Sugar Loaf ... Bencoolen ... 106
Sugar Loaf ... Baniak L ... 119
fSugar Loaf ... Tappanooly Bay 88
Sugar Loaf Hill, China, S. ... 367
Sugar Loaf Hill, Luzon, S. ... 521
Sugar Loaf Hill, Waygiou, L... 613
Sugar Loaf I. ... Lieu-chew Is. 508
Sugar Loaf Point St. Helena ... 776
Sugar Loaves ... Mergui Is. ... 43
Sugud-boyan Bay, Mindanao, S. 564
Suilo-shaw ... China, S. ... 414
Sullivan Cove 713
Sullivan I. ... Mergui Is. ... 39
♦Sulphur L ... N. Pacific Oc. 637
Sultan Shoal ... Singapore Str. 265
Sumatra Squalls. 215
Sumatra Bank ... Ditto ditto ... 260
Sumatra Channels, Sumatra, W. 114
Sumatra Currents, Sumatra, W. 116,
214
Sumatra, E. Ban & Dry. Str. ... 162
Sumatra, N. ... Malacca Str. 220
Sumatra, W. Indian Oc. 61 to 132
Sumatra Winds Sumatra C... 115
*Sumbawa Bay & Town, Sumbawa
I. 663
Sumbawa I. & Ca. Timor Sea 662, 663
Sunda Strait, Java, N. 136 to 151, 133
Sunday I. ... Barrier Reefs 747
Sun Deep I. ... Chittagong C. 4
Sunkar R. ... Ditto ditto ... 3
tSunken I. Ava, C. 17, 18, 24, 46
Sunken Rocks ... China, S. ... 415
Sunken Rocks ... Flores Strait 673
Supaw Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 126
Sural Castle's Shoal, Allass Strait 660
fSurat Passage ... Achen Head 64
*Suriago Is. & Town, Blindanao, N. 520
Surigao Passage Ditto ditto ... 519
Susannah I. St. Bengal Bay... 41
Sutarana Road... Timor, N. ... 680
Suwarrow Is. ... Pacific Ocean 763
♦Swallow Shoal... China Sea ... 485
*Swan, Port, Van Diemen Land. 711
Swangy Pulo ... Banda Is. ... 703
Swan Is. ... Bass Strait ... 715
*Swilly Rocks ... Van Diemen Land
707
Syah I Canton R. ... 402
*Syang I. ... GilloloPassage 611
SycatRock ... China, S. ...421
Sy-chew Bay ... Hainan, S. ... 349
Sydney Shoal, South Pacific Oc. 754
Sy-lock I. ... China, S. 379, 396
Sy-teng Ditto ditto ... 419
fTableCa ... Van Diemen Ld. 718
TAN
Table Hill ... Java E. ... 654
f Table Hill ... Palawan ... 489
Table Hill ... Rhio Strait ... 202
Table L ... Caspar Straits 183, 185
*Table Point ... Bally L 655,665
Tabooyong Is. ... Sumatra, W... 87
*Tabo Point ... Gillolo, E. ... 608
Tabtaboon I. ... Mindanao, S. 567
*Tae-chow-foo R. & City, China, E.
436
Tae-pan Point ... Amoy H. ... 428
Tae-ping-heen ... China, E. ... 436
Tae-shan I. ... Chusan 449, 450
Tae-tam-mee I. . China, S ... 393
fTaganac I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
*Taggal & Alountain, Java, N. ... 647
fTaggal Rock ... Ditto ditto .. iti.
Tagloc Bay ... Mindanao, E. 564
Tagne I. ... Cochin China 337
*Tagolanda I. ... Celebes, N. ... 560
Tagola Point ... Mindanao, N. 519
Tagowloo I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 570
*Ta-heaR. ... China, E. ... 451
tTahowBank ... Sooloo Sea ... 518
fTai-cou Mountain, Tsiompa ... 329
Tai-yat-kok Battery, Canton R... 375
Tajo R Luzon, N. ... 497
Takan ... ... Chusan Is. ... 446
Take, Point de la, Hainan ... 353
Ta-koo Petchelee, G. 463
Takoot Kababawan, Sooloo Sea 517
Takoot Paboonoowan, Ditto do. 518
Takoot Saanga... Ditto ditto ... 568
Ta-kut Town ... China, E. ... 432
fTalabo Ca. ... Celebes, E. ... 584
Taleiiadingls. Molucca Passage 565
Talook I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 518
TalouwarPulo... Banca ... 192
TalyaboC. ... Celebes ... 584
Ta-maou-shan I. Chusan Is. ... 443
♦Tamarind I. ... Sunda Strait 142
Tambagaan I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 519
Tambay River... Bally Strait ... 656
♦Tambelanls. ... China Sea ... 303
Tambove Road . Luzon, W. ... 494
Tamong Pulo, Sumatra, W. 90, 89, 9T
*Tamook I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 569
Tampassook Point, Borneo, W... 524
Tampasa Pulo ... Sunda Strait 149
TampeleePulo . Sumatra, N... 224
*Tamquan R. ... Cochin China 344
*Tam-quoon-towL China, S. ... 393
Tam-too I. ... Ditto ditto ... 412
Ta-muh-yangl... Chusan Is. ... 438
Tanah Putie R... Sumatra, N..., 225
*Tanakeka I. & Shoals, Celebes, S. 588,
134
*Tanasserim C. Bengal Bay 31 to 46
*Tanasserim Archip., Ditto do. ib. to ib.
Tanca Pulo ... Sumatra, W... 92
Tangala Is. ... Java, S. ... 134
Tang-chow-foo . Petchelee, G. 461
5 L 2
TEK
811
Tang-lung-chow Canton R. ... 375
Tangrea Village . Sumatra, S.... 139
Tanjong (a Cape or Point). — Places
joined to the word Tanjong will be
found under the name to which it
is prefixed. Ex. : Tanjong Jpee
under the word Apee.
Tanna I. ... New Hebrides 759
Tantalam I. ... SiamGulf ... 319
Ta-o-seao I. ... Amoy, H. ... 428
Taou-hvva-shan Chusan Is. 441, 442
Taou-sow-moon Chusan Is. ... 441
ITaou-tsze Ear.... China, E. ... 452
*TapeantanaI.&Chan., Sooloo Sea 569,
518
*Ta-pe-pa-shan,I., China, E. ... 436
Ta-ping-shan, I., China, E. ... 452
Tapool I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 518
Tapoos Village Sumatra, W. 86
*Tappanooly Bay, Ditto ditto 87,119
Taroomon ... Sumatra, W. 83
Tasdugan Inlet, Philippines ... 522
Ta-shih-taou Harbour, China, E. 459
*Tasman Head, Van Diemen La. 70S,
711
Ta-tan I. ... Amoy Harb... 428
Tatas Is. ... Dampier Str. 618
Ta-thong-moon China S. 394, 412
Tattaran I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 569
Ta-tuy L ... China E. ... 432
Ta-tuy I. ... Formosa ... 505
Tauw I. ... Timor Sea ... 686
*Tavay I. & Point, Bengal Bay ... 29
*Tavoy I. & Town, Tavoy R. 29, 31
*Tavay I. & Point, Bengal Bay 29, 31
Taw I Moluccas ... 700
Tawallyl. ... Moluccas ... 695
Tawai ... ... Bengal Bay ... 29
Taway .., ... Bengal Bay ib.
fTawee-tawee Is., Sooloo Sea ... 518
Taw-ling-saa ... Canton R. ... 405
Ta-woo-kwei-shan, Chusan Is. ... 444
*Taya Is. China Sea ... 352, 356
•Taya Pulo ... Junkseylon ... 45
+Taya Pulo ... Sumatra, E. 198
Tchen-tang-kiang, China, E. ... 453
*Tchin-shan Is. ... China, E. ... 452
Tea I Chusan Is. ... 443
Tebonas R. ... Borneo, S. ... 541
Te-chong Is. ... China, E. ... 452
Tecoos Pulo, Prince of Wales I. 137,
234
fTeega Pulo ... Borneo, W. ... .525
Teega Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 95, 98
Teekoos, Tanjong, Sunda Str. ... 137
Teen-tsing-foo, City, China, E.... 463
Teep-chow ... China, S. ... 363
Tegnell Canton R. ... 376
*Tehow-mun-shan I., China, E.... 436
Tehor I. ... Moluccas ... 700
*Teih-mei-heenCity, China, E.... 458
TekNaafR. ... Aracan ... 6
812
TIIR
Tekoos Pulo ... Timor, W. 136, 682
Telag<ry Tujou Pulo, Sumatra, N. 223
Telewang ... Allass Strait 662
*Telibon ... Queda C. ... 229
tTellapoeRoad... Sumatra, W. 80
Telloo Cattapung, Sumatra, W. ib.
Telioo Crooet ... Sumatra, W. 70
Telloo Goolumpung, Sumatra, W. 72
Teliore Point ... Ditto ditto ... 102
Teilore Pulo... Ayer Bongy Bay 92
f Teliore Pulo ... near Ayer Raja 102
Teilore Pulo ... near Natal 89, 92
tTelok-Pow Road, Sumatra, W. 80
Teloo Cassee Bay, Sumatra, \V. 102
Teloor Pulo ... Ditto ditto ... 99
*Temoel Ca. ... Macassar Strait .'iSl
Temontangis Mount, Sooloo ... 517
*Ten-clioo-t'oo ... China, E. ... 461
Ten Degrees Chan., Andamans, S.56
Teng-mee ... China, S. ... 421
*Tenian I. ... Jlarian Is. ... 636
*Ten Is Sumbawa, W. 660
Tenimber Is. ... Arafura Sea... 684
f Tenth I. ... Bass Strait ... 715
*Teoman Pulo ... China Sea ... 312
Teon I — ... Serwatty Is.... 686
Tepa Village ... Baba I. ... ib.
*Terceira I. ... Azores ... 779
Tercoli Pulo ... Khio Strait ... 202
Terempa Village Anambas ... 306
*Ternate I. ... Moluccas ... 693
Terooa Bay ... Junkseylon ... 45
*Teressa I. ... Nicobars ... 57
*Terribles ... Aracan C. ... 8
*Teynga I. ... Sooloo Sea ... 570
Tha-rooa ... Junkseylon ... 45
Thay-gin Point . Ava... ... 16
fThird Point ... Sumatra ... 171
tThird Point ... Sunda Strait 146
Third Reach ... Callam Strait 250
Thiwan Cape ... Tsiompa ... 327
Thoatail I. ... MaolobanC... 28
Thomas I. ... Timor Sea ... 683
Thomas R.St.... Luzon, W. ... 495
tThornhill Ca. ... AndamanGreat 49
fThousandls. ... Java, N. 158,161
*Three Alike Is... IMacassar Str. 549
tThree Bastards . Flores N. ...672
Three Boat I. ... China, E. ... 436
Three Brothers . Amboina ... 700
Three Brothers . Celebes Sea... 592
*Three Brothers . Dryon Straits 206
Three Brothers . Sunda Strait 138
Three Chimneys I., China, E. ... 433
Three Fathoms Shoal, Java, N. 641
Three Friars ... Luzon, W. ... 493
Three Gates ... China, S. ... 388
Three Hill I. ... Mindanao, S. 562
Three Hummock I., Bass Strait 718
Three Is. ... Borneo, W. ... 525
Three Kings ... Cochin China 340
Three Peaked I., Palawan ... 488
TOM
Three Sisters ... Sunda Strait 160
ThresholdPoint& Bay, New Guinea
628
Thunder Head... China, S. ... 425
Thunder & Lightning Sands, Pet-
chelee G. 464
♦Thwart the Way, Sunda Strait 143,
139, 160
579
521
93
523
150
694
345
351
Tibili Point
*Ticao I.
-j-Ticoo Is.
Ticos I.
Tidong Pulo ...
*Tidore I.
Tien-chu
fTien-fung Rock,
*Tien Pak City.
Mindora, W.
Philippines ...
Sumatra, W...
Philippines ...
Java, N.
Moluccas
Cochin China
Hainan, S. ...
China, S. 363, 365
Tien-pe-hien Harbour, Hainan... 363
Tien-tsing ... China, E. ..,
Tierra del Fuego, S. Amer
Tiger I. ... Balambangan
Tiger I. ... Canton R. ..
Tiger Is. & Shoals, Celebes Sea .
* Tiger I. ... Tonking Gulf
Tiger I. ... Tsiompa C. ..
Tiger Bay & Hill, China, S. ..
Tiger's Hook ... Tonking R.
fTillangchong I., Nicobars
Tilleroo Ca. ... Se Pora I.
Tillongchool I. ... Nicobars
TimbegahHill... Sumatra
*Tinioan Pulo ... China Sea
*Timor I. ... Timor Sea
*Timor Laut ... Dittoditto
* Timor Yung Is. Sumbawa, W
Tims Islet
*Ting-hae Har. ...
*Ting-hae Harb...
Ting-hae City ...
fTingeran R.
fTingy Pulo
fTingoram R.
*Tinhosa False ...
*Tinhosa I.
Tinker
Tiphou R.
Ti-tho Town
Tiwoane Ca.
Toa-tuy I.
463
764
513
405
597
347
329
425
348
59
125
57
69
312
678
686
660,
663
137
434
443
444
316
311
316
Sunda Str. ..
China, E. ..
Chusan Is. ..
Chusan
Malaya, E. ..
China Sea ..
Malay, E. ..
Hainan, E. 352,355
Ditto ditto 351,355
Chusan Is. ... 438
CochinChina 344
China, E. ... 432
Tsiompa ... 327
China, E. ... 432
Toa-sik-tow Harbour, China, E. 459
Toca Point ... SundaStr. 139,136
Todos los Sanctos, Japan Sea ... 510
*Toekoekemou I. Billiton, E 538
fToe-kow Bay ... China, E. ... 431
Toi-koke-tou I. . Canton R. ... 375
*Token Besseys Is., CelebesSea 600,642
To-kiL ... PetcheleeG. .. 464
Tokum Pulo ... Johore River . 273
Tollong-bouang, R. Sumatra, E. 162
ToloBay ... Celebes, E. ... 583
Toraaree Head, Port Stephens 726
TEE
Tombra ... Lettee I. ... 685
Tombs ... Durian Str. ... 210
Toniinie Bay ... Celebes ... 583
Tong-chow ... Chini, E. ... 456
Tong-chovv-foo City, China, E. 463
Tongeon High La., Hainan, E. 352
Tong-hou I. & Cove, China, S. 386,
378
Tongo I. ... Poggy Is. ... 127
Tong-soy Bay . Hainan ... 351
Tongue I. ... Mergui Arch. 42
Tonier I. ... Balambangan 513
*Tonin Is. ... Salayer S. 597,643
Ton-kieou ... Hainan ... 351
tTonkingGulf&R., Hainan,W. 346,347
*Tonyn Is. ... Celebes Sea ... 591
*Toob Bataha ... Sooloo Sea ... 516
♦ToojooPulo ... Banca, N. ...198
*Toojoo Pulo ... Sumatra, W. 95, 97
fTooloo Sarawoi, Sumatra, N. ... 222
*Tooloo Samwoi Point, Ditto ditto22l
Toolyan Bay ... Sooloo I. ... 518
Toomoosf'ere Pulo, Banca ... 192
*Too-nee-ang I. . China, S. ... 415
Toong-catl. ... China, S. ...421
Toong-choong . Dittoditto ... 383
Toong-eean Mount, Hainan, E. 352,
356
*Toongean Point, Hainan ... 356
Toong-tenff R., China, S. ... 419
Toon-koo " ... Canton R. 385,384
Toon-qua I. ... Dittoditto ... 572
Toon-quoo I & H., Ditto ditto 385,
384
*Topa Point ... Azores ... 779
Topies ... Rhio Strait ... 202
Tor Bay ... England, S. ... 784
Tor, Tanjong ... Malacca Str. . 258
*Tores Is. ... Mergui Archip. 43
♦Torres Str., New Guin.S. 734to744
Torris I. ... Pacific Ocean 762
Tortoise Head . China, S. ... 386
*Toty Pulo ... Banca, W. ... 189,
195, 198
Toucarabaso ... Celebes Sea... 600
Tourouniang ... Sumatra, W. ... 83
Tower I. ... Flores, S. ... 668
Tower Hilll.& Pass., Chusanls.... 443
Track I. ... Nicobars ... 60
Traitor Is. ... New Guinea... 630
TrangR. ... Queda C. ... 230
Treacherous Bay, Billiton W. ... 197
Tree-a-top I. ... Chusan Is. ... 439
Trel. ... Cochin China 338
fTreel.&Bank . Sumatra, E. . 162
Tree I. ... Borneo, W. ... 525
Tree I. ... Canton River 402
*TreeI. ... Cheduba U, 12
Tree I. ... Gaspar Straits 187
fTree I. & Bank, Singapore Str. 264,
209
Tree I. ... Sumatra, W. 103
TUR
Treelsland & Bay, China, S. ... 371
Tree Pagoda ... Canton K. ... 412
Tree Rock ... Cheduba ... 10
Trees Ca. ... Celebes, N. ... 553
*Tregrosse Is. ... Pacific Ocean 733
fTriamang R. ... Sumatra, W. 105
*Triangles Reefs, Macassar Str. 550
Triangles Shoals, Sumatra, VV. 98
Trice I. ... Nicobars ... 60
♦Trieste I. ... Sumatra, W. . 128
Trincutte I. ... Nicobars ... 59
fTrinder Shoal ... Macassar Strait 551
*TringanyR. ... Malaya, E. ... 317
Trinity Land ... SouthernOcean 767
♦Triton I. ... Paracels ... 359
Triton Sand Bank, N. Guinea... 690
Triton I. ... New Guinea . 691
Troosan Pulo ... Sumatra, W. . 101
•Trotto Pulo ... 31alacca Strait 229,
231
TrumballI.&Hill,Chusan Is. ... 4-44.
Tsae-wha ... Chusan Is. ... 450
Tsang-chow ... China, 8. ... 419
Tsat-seu I. ... Chusan I. ... 448
Tsincoe I. ... Ditto ditto ... 417
Tsing-seu ... Amoy H. ... 428
Tsik-ya-shan ... Chusan Is. ... 444
Tsiompa C, Cochin China 326 to 332
Tsong-boo Town, China, E. ... ib.
*Tsung-Hiing I. China, E. 453, 454,
455
Tuan Point ... Banca, E. ... 192
Tuan, Tanjong . Malacca Str... 253
Tubooan I. ... Sunda Str. ... 136
*Tucovia I. ... New Hebrides 759
Tuft Point ... NewGuinea,N. 629
Tuh-chow-foo Town, China, E. 433
Tulaba Bay & R., Mindora, W. . 579
Tulean Rock ... Sooloo I. ... 517
Tulosamaway ... Sumatra ... 66
*TulourIs. ... Mindanao, S. . 562
Tulycaon Road, Timor, N. ... 680
*Tunibora Moun., Sumbawa ... 664
*Tumpat Tuan Point, Sumatra, W. 80
*Tung-cha-shanls., China, E. ... 452
*Tung-ho-mun R. China, E. ... 436
Tung-quin Gulf, China " ... 346
*Tung-shan-yingPt., China, S. ... 424
Tung-tingseu, China, S. E. ... 426
*Tung-tsze-kow Bay, China, E. 467
Tunikikl. ... Java Sea ... 591
Tupier I. ... Malacca Str. 229
Tupinier Bay ... Anambas ... 306
tTuratte Point ... Celebes, S. ... 593
Turf Reef ... Keeling Is. ... 131
Turkey I. ... Java Sea ... 653
tTurks Cap ... Sumatra, W. . 126
Turks Gap ... St. Helena ... 776
tTuron Bay & R., Cochin China 345
*Turon Ca. ... Ditto ditto ... i!>.
tTuron I. ... Cochin China 346
Turret I. ... Calamianes ... 577
UNS
Turtle Bay
I Turtle I.
I Turtle I.
Turtle I.
I Turtle I.
i*TurtleIs.
Turtle 1.
Twee-lien-shan,
Twins
Twins
Twins
Twins
Twins, S.
New Ireland . 751
Binkang Bay . 339
Cochin China . 344
Timor Sea ... 681
Madura, E. ... 6.50
Banda Sea ... 703
Torres Strait . 747
Macao 375, 397
Allass Strait . 660
Andaman Great 62
China, S. ... 366
Dryon Straits 208
Mergui C. ... 40
Two& Half Fa. Bank. Banca, S. 183
tTwo&HalfFa.Ba.Malac.Str. 241,239
Two Brothers
*Tvvo Brothers ...
fTwo Brothers ...
1 Twofold Bay ..
Two Hill I. ...
Two Mast I. ...
Two Paps
fTwo Sisters ...
*Ty-ao-yu-su I...
fTy-chookchow
Ty-cock-tow,
*Ty-foong-kyoh I.,
*Tyfore I.
*Ty-han
Ty-ho
ITykaml.
T^'-lo-chow
Ty-lock
fTy-loo I.
Ty-lo-so Bay ...
Ty-man-shan ..
Ty-mong I.
Borneo, S. ... 547
Malacca Strait 228
Sumatra, E. 160,
163, 178, 182
Australia
Mergui Arch.
Borneo, W.
Cochin China
Luzon, W. ...
China Sea ...
China, S.
720
38
525
342
493
506
365
Canton R. 404, 401
China, S. ... 364
Moluccas ... 565
China, S. ... 369
Ditto ditto ... 382
Ditto ditto ... 372
Ditto ditto ... 379
Ditto ditto ... ib.
Ditto ditto ... 372
Ditto ditto ... 418
Canton R. ... 377
China, S. ... 372
*Ty-oa Point&Bay, Ditto ditto ... 367
Ty-oan I
tTypa
Typa Cabrado
*Ty-pin-san, I.
Ty-po-hoy
Ty-poongHar.
Tv-sammee
Ty-sing
*Ty-sing-cham
China Sea, 504,505
Macao Road 396, 374
.. Macao Road . 390
. China Sea ... 507
.. China S. ... 414
.. China, S. ... 415
,. Ditto ditto 420,419
.. Ditto ditto ... 417
.. Ditto ditto ... 420
Tytam Har.& To., Do.do 391,390,394
Ty-wan ... Formosa I. ... 505
Ty-wok I. ... China, S. ... 368
U.
Ubin Pulo ... Singapore Str. 273
Uckoia Channel . Chittegong C. 3
*Uniatac Bay ... iNIarian Is. ... 636
Unawb I. ... Matelotas ... 635
fUnion Ledge ... Andaman, N. 49
Union Shoal ... ^Macassar Str. 550
Unsang Peninsula, Borneo, E.... 519
VUN
813
Upright Point ...
f Uracas Is.
Urajarao I.
'Urh-taoul.
*Urk I
Urmston Bay ...
Urukthapell. ...
llshal
*Ushant Lights ...
Usuanga Bay ...
Utanata Rio ...
fUtrich Fort
*Urville Port ...
New S.Wales 721
Marian Is. ... 637
Philippines ... 573
China, E. ... 459
Kangelang, S. 651
China, S. 385,399
Pellews ... 633
Chusan Is. ... 442
BritishChannel 783
Mindora, W. 579
N.Guinea ... 690
Bally Strait... 654
Wavgioa I. ... 613
V.
Vader Smith Sh. Batavia Road 155
Valinasay Point . Luzon, W. ... 494
*Valbche Ca. ... New Guinea . 689
Vancouver Port . Slaten I. ... 768
♦VanDiem. La.... Southern Oc. 705
to 710
fVansittart Shoal, Banca, E. ... 188
Vansittart Shoal, Dampier Str. . 620
fVansittart fehoals, Gaspar Strait 183,
181
Van Tuil Fort ... Borneo, S. ... 542
*Varela Ca. ... Cochin China 340
fVarela False Ca. Ditto ditto ... 337
fVarela Pulo ... China Sea ... 315
VarelaPulo ... Cochin China 340
*Varela Pulo, Sumatra, E. 204, 227
VarelaPulo ... Malacca Str. ib.
VarelaReef ... .Alalacca Str. 228
Varne Shoal ... BritishChannel 785
* Vega Shoal ... China Sea, S. 190
Velas Point ... Azores ... 779
*Vele Rete Rocks, China Sea ... 503
*Velthoens I. ... Celebes Sea... 601
Verd Cape Is. ... Atlantic Ocean 777
Vei'latens I. ... Sunda Strait 141
Vernnn I. ... Chusan Is. ... 441
fVt'Stal Shoal ... Ava C. ... 14
*\'^ictoria Bay ... Leatong, G.... 468
♦Victoria Fort ... Aniboina ... 700
♦Victory 1. ... China Sea ... 305
Vinay Point ... Tsiompa ... 329
Vincent St. Pt... VanDiemenLd.707
♦Vincent Port St., New Caledonia 756
*Vine Dry Sand... Pacific Ocean 733
•Viper Shoal ... China Sea ... 487
Virgins Cape ... JIagellan Str. 768
Vizenti, Port San, Luzon, N 497
Vogels Is. ... ^Malacca Strait 22S)
*\'olcanic Mountain, Bally 1. ... 655
♦Vokano I. ... Pacific Ocean 76(1
Volcano .Mount . Sumatra, \V... 103
Vordate I. ... Timor Laut Is. 687
Vorcay 1. ... N.Guinea ... 692
•Vulador Shoal... Paracels ... 359
Vung Chao Har. Cochin China 341
814
WEI
VungGang ... Cochin China 337
Vung-la-Cove ... Ditto ditto ... 342
Vung-lam liar., Ditto ditto ... 341
Vung-mon Bay & Point, Ditto do. 342
Vung-tau " ... Tsiompa ... 327
Vung-trich Point, Ditto ditto .. 342
W.
Wae-woo-kwei-san, Chusan Is. 444
f Wag-Ian ... China, S. 392, 391
VVahaay Harb.... Ceram ... 698
Wakea"R. ... New Guinea 690
Wakoo Bay ... Ceram ... 699
Waiteaol. ... Chusan Is. 447, 448
*Waller Shoals ... Celebes Sea... 349
Wall of China ... China, N. ... 465
Wallis I. ... New Ireland 751
Walpole I. ... S. Pacific Oc. 760
Wama I. ... Arafura Sea 689
•Wamvax I. ... Torres Str. ... 734
WamQka Kiv. ... New Guinea... 691
Wan-chow-foo City & River, China,
E. 436
Wan-chung-chow, China, S. ... 384
Wangiwangi I.,.. Token Besseys 600
Wang-tong Is. ... Canton R. ... 404
Wanla I. ... Arafura Sea... 689
Wapen I. ... Sunda Strait 150
tWarning Mount New S. Wales 730
*WarooBay ... Ceram, N. ...699
Warren Hastings Shoal, Gaspar
Straits 188
*Watcher, North, Java Sea 159, 158
tWatcher North, INIacassar Strait 552
Watcher, South, Cochin China 347
*Watcher, South, Java Sea ... 157
Watcher, South, Macassar Strait 552
Water Bay ... Sapy Strait 666, 667
'Waterhouse I. & Point, Bass Str. 715
Watering Bay ... China, S. ... 370
Watering Bay, Lea-tong Gulf 465
Watering I. Singapore Str. 275, 285
Water Is. ... China, S. ... 373
fWaterls. ... Cochin China 337
Water Is. ... Malacca Road 257
Water Point ... Java, E. ... 654
Watson Bay ... Port Jackson 724
*Wawoor 1. ... China Sea ... 312
*Waxway I. ... Celebes, E. ... 600
* Waygiou, or Waygeeooe, Moluccas
612, 620
Way Pulo ... Achenls. ... 62
Way Pulo ... Banda Is ... 702
-fWayPulo ... Siam Gulf ... 321
♦Wednesday I. ... Torres Strait 736
fWeeda Is. ... Gillolo, E. ... 607
Welang I. ... Timor Sea ... 686
Weetang 1. ... Timor Sea ... ib.
Wei-hae-wei Harbour, Gulf of Pet-
chelee, 460
WIN
fWelcome Bay, Sunda Strait 141, 146
WellingtonMount, V.D. Land... 706
Wells Reef ... Pacific ... 750
*Welstead Rock, China Sea ... 303
Wessel I. ... N.Guinea ... 691
West Brother ... Hainan ... 350
West Danger Is., Pacific Oc. ... 761
Western Anambas, China Sea, S. 305
Western Channel, Banca Strait 165
Western Channel, Durian Strait 211
♦Western Grove Rangoon River 20
Western Is., Atlantic, N., 778 to 781
West Harb. ... Keeling Is. ... 132
West Head ... PortDalrymple 715
West I., Andaman Great 49, 51
West I. ... China E. ... 452
West I. ... Flores, W. ... 667
West I. ... Gaspar Strait 184
*West I. ... Java Sea ... 158
West I. ... Moluccas ... 695
West 1. ... Natunas ... 309
*West London Reef, China Sea 483
West Passage Island, Mergui C. 38
Wetta L ... Timor Sea ... 677
*Wetter I. ... Timor Sea ... ib.
WeymouthCa Australia ...744
Weywongy I. ... Moluccas ... 600
Whale Rock ... Sumatra, W. 96
Whale Shoal ... Salaya, W. ... 595
Whale's Crown, Singapore Strait 276
fWhampoa Anchor, Canton R. 409
Whelps Chusan Is. ... 438
White Button ... China Sea ... 324
White Cliffs ... Chittagong 1, 3
White Dog Is. ... China, E. ... 436
AVhite Mandarin H., China E. ... 436
White Reef ... Tavay R. ... 28
White Rock ... Carimata Pass. 537
White Rock ... Aracan R. ... 7
White Rock ... China Sea ... 325
White Rock ... Mergui C. ... 40
f White Rock ... Panay, W. ... 574
White Rock ... Singapore Str. 278
White Rock Point, China, S. ... 417
White Rocks ... Ditto ditto ... 388
fWhite Rocks ... Ditto ditto ... 537
White Rock .. Sumatra, W. 81
*White Rock, Van Diemen. Lnd. 707
White Rocky Islets, China, S. ... 393
White Sandy Cliffs, Chittagong 1, 3
White Tomb ... Aracan R. ... 7
Whitsunday Passage, Australia, E.
744
Wide Bay ... Australia ... 727
Widemouth Shoal, British Channel 786
Wight I. ... England, S. ... 785
Wilhelm Bay ... Damme I. ... 686
*William Ca. ... Celebes, W. 551
William Shoal... Ava C. ... 14
Wilson Point ... New Guinea 629
Wilson Promontory, Bass Str. 720
Winchelsea I., S. Pacific Ocean 757
YOR
Winter Passage, Barrier Reefs ... 749
♦Wizard Rocks... China, S. 372,375
Wo-chow Is. ... Ditto ditto ... 411
Woerden Castle Rock, Java, N. 643
*WolfRock ... Moluccas ... 694
Won-chun-chow , China, S. ... 413
Wooan I. ... Amoy H. ... 428
*Woody L ... China Sea 305, 357
Woody I. ... Pacific Ocean 757
Woody Is. ... Mindanao, N. 520
Woody I. ... Sumatra, S. 140
Woo-ga Point ... China, E. ... 434
Woong-boo I. ... Canton R. ... 378
Woong-moo I., China, S. ... ib.
Woong-mow I., Ditto ditto ... 418
Woo-soo-meen Pass. China, E. 434
Woo-seu-shan, Amoy H. 427, 426
Woosha I. ... Chusan Is. ... 442
*Woo-sung Vill. & R., China, E. 454,
456
Wrange Rock ... Batavia ... 152
*Wreck Reef S. Pacific Oc. 730, 745
tWright'sI. ... Lingin C. ...206
Wright Rock ... Bass Strait ... 719
Wyang I. ... Gillolo Passage 611
*Wy-caupI. ... China, S. ...371
Wylah River ... Sumatra, W. 79
Wyllie Rocks ... Babayan Is. ... 499
Wyndham I. ... Aracan ... 11
X.
Xuan-dai Harbour, Cochin China 341
Xulla Is. ... ^Moluccas 603,583
*Xulla Bessey I., Moluccas 583, 603
Xulla Mangola I., Ditto ib. ib.
Xulla Talyabo I., Ditto ib. ib.
Yacabah Head, Port Stephen's 762
Ya-chow ... China, S. ... 393
fYait-chew Bay & Town, Hainan 349
Yambie J\Iew I. Aracan ... 11
Ya-mura Mountain, Sumatra ... 66
Yang-lo-shan ... Chusan Is. ... 447
Yang-tsze-keang,R. China, E. ... 454
*Yap I. ... Pacific Ocean 635
YarboroughPort, Endeavour Str. 743
Yaskaiel. ... Petchelee G. 464
Yat-moon ... China, S. ... 393
*Yeah River ... Martaban ... 28
Yellow Rock ... Port Dalrymple 717
Yellow Sea &R., China, E. ...458
Yeu-tong ... China, S. ... 365
Yew-shan I. ... China, E. ... 451
*Ylin Is. ... Mindora, S. ... 575
Yloylo ... Panay I. ... 573
York Breakers... Palawan, W. . 490
York Ca., ... EndeavoursStr.728
YUT
York Is. ... EndeavoursStr. 740
Yow-lo ... China, S.E.... 430
Young-hog ... China, S. ... 385
iYowl Is. ... Waygiou, N... 615
Ysaroc Mountain, Luzon, E. ... 524
tYu-lin-kan Bay, Hainan 350, 353
Yung-gae I. ... China ... 385
Yung-liang-ho... Petchelee G. . 463
Yuthia ... Siam ... 320
ZEB
Zalinafl.
.. Celebes Sea ..
. 589
Zamanap
.. Madura, E. ..
. 650
Zam-chow
.. Canton R. ..
. 376
Zealand Fort .
.. Formosa
. 505
Zealand New
.. S. Pacific Oc.
. 769
Zeba Bay
.. Savu I.
. 684
ZUT
815
Zebo I. ... Martaban ... 25
Zee Klip, Sunda Strait 142, 180
Zelody Is. ... Sumatra, W. . 89
*Zemanro Gut ... Solor Strait . 675
Zeu-oo-tau Ca. .. China, E. ... 461
Zidayo ... Java, E. .. 648
ZingaatI\Iountains,Marlaban 25,26,21
fZouby I. ... Hainan ... 353
tZutphen Is. ... SundaStraitl39, 179
END OF A'OLUME II.
Ptintea by J. L. Cox 4 Sons. 75, Great (Jucen Street,
Lincoln's-lob Fields.
SUPPLEMENT TO THE FIFTH EDITION
OF
HORSBURGHS EAST-INDIA DIRECTORY.
VOLUME II.
The following abstracts contain the information which has been received since the
publication of the fifth edition of the Directory ; and in order to ensure an early circu-
lation of all such new matter, it is intended to issue from time to time similar abstracts
in continuation.
SUPPLEMENT.
CHEDUBA, S. W. COAST. (Vol. ii. p. 10.)— The S. W. coast of Cheduba,
which has been so imperfectly laid down in our charts, has recently been surveyed by
Captain Halsted, of H.M.8. Childers, who gives the following description and sailing
directions for the coast, and its contiguous islands and banks: —
" The extreme rocks of tlie reef, lying off the N. W. point of Cheduba, are in lat.
18^ 55^' N., Ion. 93° 20^' E., bearing from the point N. W. ^ N. 5 miles. From
these extreme rocks the reef runs E. by N. 4 miles, having along this line two small
islands : Beacon Island, lying East three-quarters of a mile from the extreme rocks, and
which has on it a beacon of stones about 60 feet above high-water mark, and which is
visible 9 miles ; and Sandy Island, not so high as the other, lying three-quarters of a
mile from the eastern extreme of the reef, which bears from it N. E. by E. ^ E. Both
islands have been planted with cocoa-nut trees.
" The soundings in the neighbourhood of the reef are regular, ranging from 4
fathoms, a quarter of a mile off its northern face, to 8 and 9 fathoms, 3 miles oft' it;
while at that distance ofTthe N. W. and west ends, 16 and 17 fathoms are found. An
outlying rock, with 7 feet water on it, is found N. E, by E. of Beacon Island, distant
half a mile.
" In the North-east Monsoon the anchorage is good in all these soundings, but the reef
affords no slielter from the heavy swell of the South-west Monsoon ; at which season
the channel between Cheduba and Ramree Islands, after carefully rounding the eastern
extreme of the reef, is open and available for that purpose. The tides run East and
West along the reef 1^ knots in the neaps, and nearly 3 knots in the springs, when they
sometimes rise 8 feet. They are irregular in time. High water at full and change off
the north coast of Cheduba at 9 h. 30 min.
" The North-West Point of Cheduba is a round volcanic hill, 200 feet in
height, having casuaringa trees only growing on it. It is connected with the North-west
reef by a series of detached rocks, both above and below water, with deep channels
between them, through one of which an entrance was found into a small, and, in thf^
North-east Monsoon, good harbour on the north coast of the island. This was named
Port Childers; its harbour rock lies S. S. E. from Beacon Island, distant if miles.
This rock is 20 feet high, 50 or 60 yards in length, and is the largest of the rocks in its
neighbourhood. From its western side a reef, whose extreme is above water, extends
one mile. A quarter of a mile S.S.W. of the harbour rock is a small rock above water,
and about a quarter of a mile to the southward and south-eastward of the latter are two
sunken rocks forming the northern limit of the entrance channel. This channel, which
VOL. II.
4 SUPPLEMENT.
runs East and West, has 6 fathoms in its centre, 4 fathoms close to the two northern rocks,
and 5 fathoms near the reef forminj? its southern limit. The reef, from its resemblance
to the ribs of a wreck, is named Rib Reef. The channel is half a mile wide, and the
land and sea breezes blow directly through it alternately. There is no passage for
ships eastward into the Cheduba channel ; but in coming out of the port to the west-
ward, a clear passage exists close to the southward of Rib Reef, but this is not to be
recommended. In entering the port, when the N. W. point of Cheduba bears S.S.E.,
steer E. N. E. until it bears S. by W. The best anchorage will then be found with
Sandy Island bearing North in 4 fathoms clay and mud.
" Henry Rock is a detached mass, 35 feet high, visible 6 or 7 miles, and bearing
from the N. W. point of Cheduba W. S. W. 2 miles. It is the largest mass off this
part of the coast, and marks the position of a considerable reef which surrounds it.
There is a narrow channel inside it, but the tides render it very dangerous.
" Throughout the line of coast, the safe limit of approach in ordinary navigation is 20
fathoms by day, and from 60 to 70 by night, the former clearing all the dangers about
2 miles. To the westward and northward of Beacon Island, however, the soundings
extend a much greater distance offshore than southward of it, where at a distance less
than 10 miles no bottom is found at 120 fathoms, and the coast of Foul Island has little
less than 30 fathoms close to it, all round, with the exception of its N. E. point.
" The West Coast of Cheduba has small detached rocks scattered along it,
at the distance of less than 2 miles off shore ; but these do not prevent the practicability
of anchoring in various parts during the North-east Monsoon, when the coast is visited
by native craft for rice. This article may be procured in quantity, cheap and good ;
also cattle, poultry, and fruit. Wood is easily procured, but water not without trouble.
There is little inducement, however, to visit this coast, and vessels not bound to its ports
would do well to keep clear of it in the South-west Monsoon."
By Captain Halsted's chart a range of hills appears to run parallel to the south-west
coast of Cheduba. West Hill, in lat. 18' 47' N., he describes as 1,300 feet high ; South
Peak, near the south extreme of the island, is 1,700 feet in height, and may be seen
beyond the limit of soundings to seaward.
As the south point of the island is approached. Pyramid Rock will be seen ; it is a
remarkable pinnacle, rising 200 feet out of the water, and lying one mile from the shore ;
it bears about W. S. W. from South Peak. Pyramid Rock marks the position of
the dangerous reefs to the southward, and between it and Flat Island ; so that, when
working along shore to the northward of Hill Island, the Pyramid should never be
brought to bear to the northward of N. by E. The indraft between Cheduba and Flat
Island is very great.
Flat Island is about 4 miles long from North to South, and is very low, except
near its cenre, where there is a volcanic hill about 200 feet in height. It is separated
from the south part of Cheduba by a channel varying from 2 to 4 miles in width. Hill
Island, which is small and high, lies close to the southward of it, a reef connecting
them.
False Island is a small low sandy island, bearing from the volcano of Flat
Island E. by S. 5^ miles. It is ordered to be planted with cocoa-nut trees.
West Shoal is a dangerous reef, half a mile in diameter, with very irregular
soundings round it. The sea constantly breaks on it, and at low water the points of
rocks are seen between the rollers. Rocks extend in a line between this shoal and
False Island ; a remarkable one, called Sail Rock, lies about 2|^ miles from West Shoal.
SUPPLEMENT. §.
Heywood Channel, which takes its name from the late Captain Peter HeyvvoocI,
runs between the shores of Hill and Flat Islands on the West, and the reefs and
rocks extending- from West Shoal to False Island on the East. The course through it
is N. E. by IN. in from 13 to 5 fatlioms sandy bottom. There is good anchorage in
moderate weather. This channel leads to and from the port of Amherst Harbour, and
the secure anchorages inside the islands of Chedul)a and Ramree.
Tree Island, in lat. 18° 26' N., Ion. 93° 56' E., about a mile in length and 250
feet in height, bears from Hill Island S. E. ^ S. 12 miles. A reef of straggling rocks
extends from its south point three-quarters of a mile, and detached rocks are found
half a mile off its eastern shore. There is also a 4-fathom patch half a mile from its
N. W. point. This island and West Shoal form the sea entrance to a second channel
leading to the inner anchorages of Cheduba and Ramree Islands. The N.W. limit of
this channel, called Childers Channel, is the range of reefs between West Shoal and False
Island, and its S. E. limit is Tree Island, and a large rocky reef about .3^ miles N. by
E. ^ E. Between this reef and the Sail Rock the channel is 4^ miles wide. The course
through the lair- way is N. N. E. in from 15 to 9 fathoms water. The superior width
and depth and the clear approach to Tree Island, avoiding the danger of West Shoal,
seems to give this channel the preference over the Heywood channel. The tides are
strong through both.
The Nerbuddah Rock bears S. E. \ E. from the centre of Tree Island 5 miles.
It is a small pinnacle, awash at low water, with a small break of sea on it. Six
fathoms are found close round it, and 10 fathoms within a mile. To avoid it from tlie
westward. Tree Lsland must not be brought to bear to the westward of North. There is
a clear channel between it and the southern reef of Tree Island, but it is preferable to
round the latter.
Four-Fathom Shoal is an extensive patch of rocks, with very irregular
soundings, from 13 to 4 fathoms on it. It bears from the Nerbuddah S. S. E. 7 miles,
and the channel between them is clear, but not to be recommended, A heavy swell
constantly rolls over the shoal, breaking no doubt in bad weather.
Foul Island. — The reef of rocks off the South Point of this island is generally
.said to extend 3 miles; Captain Halsted states it to be some few hundred yards in
length, and in his chart makes it not more than a quarter of a mile.
William Shoal, according to the same authority, has only 2 fathoms water on
its extremes, and from 5 to 7 between them, the shoal being a mile in length East
and West.
THE SAYER ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 44.)-There is a dangerous reef of rocks
lying about three miles to the eastward of the island, next to the southernmost one of
the group. This reef is full half a mile in extent. — (iV. Mag. 1842, j9. (564.)
THOUSAND ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 158.)— Pulo Ayer, the southernmost of
these, bears S. W. by W. (and not W. by S. as in the charts), according to Captain
Johnson of the ship Discovery, and nearly due East from the Hoorn Islands, making
the channel through a very crooked one, instead of its being straight, as represented in
the charts.— (A^. Mag. 1842, p. 340.)
PULO CEICER DE MER. (Vol. ii. p. 332.)— Mr. Forster, Master of H.M.S.
Modeste, states that in passing this island five miles off, they made a smaller island (in
addition to the one with two peaks), which was too large to pass under the name of
g SUPPLEMENT.
a rock, and nearly as high as the larger island. As they passed to the eastward, he
thinks'this may join the larger island on the opposite side, but a passage was thought
to be seen between them.
HONG KONG. (Vol. ii. p. 390.) — The island of Hong-kong, with its numerous
bays and anchorages, has been recently surveyed by Captain Sir E. Belcher and the
officers of H.M.S. Sulphur, and the following information is taken from the remarks of
Mr. George, the Second Master of that ship, and from the Admiralty chart. The island
is oenerally barren and very mountainous; the highest peak, which is near the N.E. part
of "the island, has an elevation of 2,000 feet above the sea. There appears to be good
anchorage throughout the entire channel on the north side of the island (except in the
Lyee-moon Pass, where the water is deep), as well as in Tathong Channel on its east
side, and there are several bays and harbours on the south side, besides Tytam Harbour
described at page 391, which are frequented by the trading junks.
The British settlement is on the north side of the island, towards its east end, nearly
opposite to the peninsula of the main land which forms the west side of Cowloon Bay.
The spacious anchorage, called in the Admiralty chart Hong-kong Harbour, is off the
settlement, and has good holding ground, with depths varying from 5 to 9 fathoms. It
is generally approached from the westward, on which side it is protected by the 3^
fathom bank, called Kellett Bank, which projects upwards of 2 miles from the N.W.
point, towards Chunghue. Large ships, having to round the north end of Kellett Bank,
should bring the Peak of Lamma Island open to the westward of Green Island, and on
a S. f E. bearing, which will clear the bank to the westward. This mark should be kept
on until Devil Peak (on the main land near Lyee-raoon Pass) is in one with the white
rock on the south point of Wonchue-chow, which latter mark kept on will clear the bank
to the northward ; and when the small islet of Hongheong (which lies 1^ miles to the
eastward of the settlement) comes on with the highest and eastern peak of the island,
bearing S. E. by E. f E., that course will lead to the anchorage.
There is a 4-fathom channel between Kellett Bank and Green Island, which may be
taken by small vessels by passing to the northward of Green Island, at two cables' dis-
tance, and then steering for the anchorage.
There is also a channel inside Green Island, through which H.M. Ships Cornwallis
and Sulphur have passed ; it has from 10 to 1 3 fathoms in the middle, shoaling to 8, Q, and
4| soon after passing the smaller Green Island. As a guide for taking this channel,
the northernmost of the two forts on the peninsula may be brought to appear in mid-
channel, bearing E. by N. f N., which course will lead through to the anchorage.
CANTON RIVER. (Vol. ii. p. 404.)— Captain Maitland, of H.M.S. Wellesley,
gives the following directions for the passage to the westward of the Wang-tong
Islands : — " Keep the first village seen to the northward of Tycock-tow point open to
the southward of the first bluff point above the fort, which has the appearance of an
island ; this clears the south extreme of the Wang-tong shoal. The east extreme of
Tiger Island, open to the westward of the west extreme of the north Wang-tong, clears
the shoal to the westward. When to the northward of the Wang-tong, care must be
taken of the 16-feet rock."
LEE-O-LOO, orLAE-AO-BAY. (Vol. ii. p. 430.)— H.M.S. Pelican, when within
2 miles of Lee-o-loo Point, observed an appearance of broken water on the lee beam.
SUPPLEMENT. J-
the vessel having just steerage-way, and the flood tide setting very strong towards it;
stood off immediately, and suddenly shoaled from 15 to 10, 8, 7, 6 fathoms, when it
gradually deepened to 13 fathoms.
YUNG-NING, or CHIMMO BAY.— (Pagoda Island), in lat. 24° 38' N., Ion.
118° 36' E., lies about 4 leagues N.E. of Quemoy. On the north shore of the bay are
several villages, three forts, and a large town ; there is also a fishing-town on the south
shore. The ground is good, and there is shelter from the S.W. round northerly to
E.N.E. ; but during the North-east Monsoon there is a heavy ground-swell rolling in,
and very little shelter should the wind come on from E.S.E. A patch of rocks lies
about N.E. J N., three-quarters of a mile from Pagoda Island, with deep water close to
it ; to avoid which a vessel should keep the north shore on-board, as the sea does not
break on tiiem, except at low water with a fresii breeze. There is no other danger
going in, and the place may be easily distinguished by the Pagoda Hill to the north-
ward of the anchorage. No tide was experienced at the inner anchorage, but at the
entrance the tide sets round the north shore about half a knot per hour ; the rise and
fall appeared to be 12 or 14 feet. There did not seem to be much trade, but several
hundreds of fishing-boats go in and out daily. Provisions, such as potatoes, fowls,
eggs, &c., are procured by the opium vessels in almost any quantity, at a reasonable
price. Water is not easily obtained.
H.M.S. Pelican, in Dec. 1841, anchored in this bay in 7 fathoms, with the Pagoda
mountain (in-land and northward of the bay) bearing North ; Pagoda Island (near the
southern entrance-point) S. by E. \ E., and the fort at the entrance N.E. ^ E. Mr.
Stokes, the master of the ship, who gives these bearings, says, that a much better berth
for small vessels would be about 3 cables' lengths, N.N.W. of the above position, where
they would be sheltered from the sea, which setting in a-beam of the Pelican made her
roll very heavily.
In making Chiramo Bay from the southward, two remarkable hills will be seen
northward of the entrance; one round, with a very high pagoda on it, and the other like
a saddle. Steer for the latter, until the shipping in the bay can be seen. Care must be
taken to give Pagoda Island a good berth, for off it lie two sunken rocks with only
3 feet water on them. The sea breaks on these rocks in blowing weather, and there
is a passage between them and the island sometimes used by the small opium vessels.
There is also a small rock within the north point visible at half tide ; this may be
avoided by not running too close to that point.
TSONG-BOO— (Vol. ii. p. 432), according to Mr. Higgs, Second Master of
H.M.S. Algerine, is in lat. 24° 51' N., Ion. 118° 58' E., or allowing the south point of
Koo-long-seu island (Amoy) to be 118° 2' 37" E., in 0° 55' 24" E. of that place, by
two chronometers, in nine days' run.
H.M.S. Algerine, when near Ock-seu, on 3rd Dec. 1841, bore up in a heavy g:ale
from N.N.E. and anchored in Tsong-boo Bay in 8 fathoms, soft mud, good holding
ground, and well sheltered from all winds from East round northerly to \V.S.W.
Tsong-boo promontory is high land, sloping gradually down to the westward, and is
joined to a ridge of sand, which is low and stretches out from the high land of Tsong-
boo town. It may be easily distinguished from the adjacent land to the northward,
being higher, and by the Pyramid Island, which has a small pillar on it. This island
lies about a third of a mile from the extreme of the promontory, and bears E. by N.
S SUPPLEMENT.
4 or 5 miles from the anchorage. There is a ledge of rocks off its south end, some of
which are ahove water ; they are steep to, and the sea breaks on the outer part of the
ledge. The following are the bearings from the Algerine's anchorage : — Pyramid
Island £. by N. ; Western Point of the bay N.N.W. ; Chimmo Hill Pagoda S.W.
by W. 1 \V.
There did not appear to be any danger between Ock-seu and the Tsong-boo pro-
montory, which is steep to, as no bottom was obtained li miles off with 18 fathoms.
There are fishing stakes lying off the bay to the distance of several miles, but they are
small and not dangerous.
The Algerine worked along the coast between Chimmo and Chin-chew Bays, in
which interval there is no other bay, as represented in some of our charts.
Passage from AMOY to CHUSAN. (Vol. ii. p. 435.)— Ships leaving Amoy for
Chusan, during the North-east Monsoon, are recommended by Mr. Stokes, of H. M.S.
Pelican, to bear up for the south end of Formosa, taking the outside passage, not only
to save time and wear and tear, but also to avoid the many unknown and doubtfully
placed islands of the inner passage. Capt. Bourchier, of H.M.S. Blonde, says, that
the only mode of making a passage to Chusan against the monsoon is by stretching
well off the coast to at least 120° E. ; the winds then gradually drawing more to the
N.E., will enable a ship to make, northing on the starboard tack.
SAM-SAH ISLANDS. (Vol.ii. p. 435.)— Captain Dundas, of H.M.S. Melville,
in standing alongshore to the northward, came in sight of a rocky islet in lat. 26° 10^'
N., Ion. 120° 22' E. From abreast of this island, about 5 miles to the eastward of it,
in 34 fathoms water, sand and shells, steering N.N.E. he came very quickly in sight
of high bold land, bearing N. ^ E., which afterwards proved to be three large islands.
He supposed them to be theSam-sah Islands, although much farther off the coast than
those islands are placed in the charts. It was not till he had passed them, that he
could discover them to be three distinct islands. He was near enough to perceive that
they were inhabited, and that cattle were grazing on the hills.
TAE-CHOW ISLANDS.-Captain Maitland, of H.M.S. Wellesley, describes a
group of islands (called by the natives Tae-chow) in lat. 28° 22' N., Ion. 121° 58' E.
The Wellesley anchored near them on 15lh Sept. 1841, during a strong N.E. breeze,
and found good shelter. The outer and south-eastermost island bore N.E. by E. ; a
remarkable round island, near the centre of the westernmost chain. West; Saddle
Island, and a fourth island to the N.W. of the outer island, N.N.E. ; a cluster of black
rocks which shew about 8 feet above high water N. by E., and the N.W. point of the
fifth island N. ^ W. The tides are strong, and rise about 15 feet ; the ebb comes from
N.N.W., and it is high water on the full and change of the moon, at 10 a.m. The
soundings are regular and the bottom muddy. When about six miles N.E. of the
south-east island, the Hih-shan Islands were in sight from the poop of the Wellesley.
The Tae-chow Islands appear to be inhabited and well cultivated.
CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. TINGHAE. (Vol.ii. p. 437.)— There is good
anchorage for vessels drawing less than 19 feet outside Guard-house Island. Vessels
anchoring here should keep the passage between Guard-house Island and Chusan
shut in, as the water suddenly deepens farther out.
SUPPLEMENT. H
JUST-IN-THE-WAY. — On a very low spring tide, Capt. Maitland observed a rock
bearing- S.S.E., ]^ cables from this island. The rock is not visible at ordinary springs.
CHIN-HAE, NING-PO RIVER.— The rise and fall of tide at the entrance of this
river, according to Capt. Bourchier, of H.M.S. Blonde, is 10| feet, and it is high water
on the full and change of the moon, at I'i*" 10" p.m.
H.M.S. Wellesley anchored 1,300 yards N.N.VV. of the Joss House, and grounded
at half ebb.
Captain Maitland mentions two rocks off the south point of Kin-tang, distant about
2 cables from the land, and visible at a quarter ebb. To clear them, get the peak of
Tower Hill Island on with the low north point of Tygoshan, and when past them keep
towards the island till well past the Deadman, off the north point of which nearly three-^
quarters of a mile lies a dangerous rock. Stand on to the N.W. until Passage Island
closes on the Triangles, when you may then stand towards them, gradually opening
Passage Island till the channel between the Triangles and the main is well open. To
clear the rocks in coming from Ning-po, keep the south end of Square Island on with
the north extreme of a deep Saddle Hill, on the main land, to the westward of Square
Island, till Tower Hill and Tygoshan Point come on as before. The tides are very
strong and require great care. Between the Triangles and the main are 14 or lo
fathoms, but you pass over a bank of 5 or 7 fathoms. Keep towards the islands when
going into IN'ingpo River, and when near Passage Island, a small island is seen on
the east side of the entrance, near which is the deepest water. When past it, keep
in mid-channel, anchoring anywhere oft' Chin-hae in four fathoms, low water.
BABUYAN ISLANDS. (Vol ii. p. 498.)— Mr. Hoffmeister, Master of H.M.S.
Cornwallis, speaks of a very high topping sea (first reported as breakers) experienced
by the ship in passing between Lapurip and Calayan ; this was almost immediately
succeeded by a glassy smoothness. These effects he attributes to a strong N.W. cur-
rent. A few hours afterwards, when running through the same passage, having bore
up for the gale, nothing of this rippling was apparent. He speaks of frequent rising
and subsiding of the sea without a corresponding change of weather.
SAMBOANGAN. (Vol. ii. p. 568.)— The anchorage off" the town of Samboangan
is not good, the bottom being foul and the bank steep, and many ships have lost their
anchors there. Immediately in front of the town, in depths between 14 and 18 fathoms,
the bottom appears to be composed of large rocks ; abreast of either end of the town
the ground is considered to be more even. There is a fort at the eastern extreme,
and a church at the western extreme of the town. Some think that the anchorage off
the fort, in depths of 17 or 18 fathoms, is to be preferred, but as a general rule the
coasters affirm that all along this part of Mindanao from point Caldera, the bottom is
foul when in deeper water than 1 2 fathoms. This depth oft" Samboangan is very close in.
A ship with 50 fathoms of chain out will swing into 7 fathoms, and will not be more
than half a cable's length from the shoal water, yet there is little danger of driving in
that direction, the tides usually running 3 or 4 knots in the direction of the land.
Should a ship in swinging foul her anchor she would be certain to drive; it is there-
fore necessary to moor. From 18 to 20 fathoms the water suddenly deepens to 30 and
35 fathoms, and although this is deep water for ships to bring up in with chain cables,
several have done so and have not lost their anchors.
10 SUPPLEMENT.
Bullocks, fowls, fruit and yams may be obtained at Samboangan. All except the
fruit are dear. The water is excellent and easily procured ; it runs behind the beach
in a fine stream, but unless filled very early in the morning it is rather thick, the whole
female population washing in it every day and stirring up the mud, but it soon settles.
The town of Samboangan contains about 6,000 or 8,000 inhabitants, of whom 20 per-
haps are Europeans, chiefly officials. It is said that they muster about 200 soldiers,
mostly militia, the others being convicts from Manila, this l)eing a penal settlement.
There is also a gun-boat stationed here for the suppression of the Sooloo and Mindanao
pirates. The trade of the place is scarcely worth notice.
In connexion with Samboangan the Spaniards have a small fort at Caldera, which is
about 7 miles to the westward. Here is said to be a small but secure haven, with
.steep shores, where ships may heave down or undergo repairs; this they are enabled
to do without assistance from Samboangan ; no assistance must be expected from
thence.— (iV. 3Iag. 1843, jj. 219.)
SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 568.)— In June, 1812, the ship Ann, of
Greenock, struck on a reef to the south-westward of these islands. When on shore,
the following bearings were taken. Point Caldera N.W. ; Sangboys Island W. byS. ;
easternmost peak of Baseelan S.E. by E. ; easternmost Santa Cruz Island E. :^ N. ;
western Santa Cruz Island (over which the mast-heads of the ships in Sambangar Road
were visible) N.E. :|; E. Estimated distance from the islands about 4 miles. This,
it is thought, is the outer part of the reef. The least water found was 13 feet, and this
shoal patch is not above 300 or 400 yards in length, by 100 yards in breadth. Other
patches extend from this in the direction of the eastern island. Between the shoal
and the west point of the islands there is plenty of water, but to the westward of this
point there is another shoal, rather extensive, on which an American ship is said to
have struck shortly after the above occurrence. — (iV. Mag. 1843,^9. 217.)
THE CAGAYANES ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 572.)— Cavilli Island is wooded with
heavy timber, and has a reef extending from it in all parts about three-quarters of a
mile. The breakers mentioned at page 572 of the Directory are on a detached reef,
having a clear and safe passage between it and the island of 1| or 2 miles, the entire
bearing about W.S.W. from Cavilli Island, and having on it a small sand-bank, or cay,
with trees; in other parts also the sand is dry, and of an oval shape, the length being
in an East and West direction, and in size similar to Cavilli and its island, about
6 or 8 miles in circumference. — {N. Mag. 1842, p. 824.)
Westward of Cavilli Island there are two extensive reefs, which I saw and passed
near in July, 1841. These reefs are in shape, extent, and direction, exactly similar to
those inserted as Goob Bataha. It is reported that these latter have no existence in the
position assigned to them, but I cannot speak to the fact, not having crossed the locality.
Of the reefs mentioned I made the south end in 8° 45' N., which it will be observed is
nearly a degree northward of Goob Bataha, and my chronometers measured 1°18'
between the same point and Manookmanookan, which island appeared to agree nearly
with Cagayaa Sooloo ; also 59 miles from thence to the middle of Cavilli Island. From
the south point they take generally a north-easterly direction, and seemed about 20
miles in length, by 5 or 6 miles in breadth at the widest part ; the southern reef being
small in comparison with the northern one, and having a channel of about U miles
between them. They are steep coral reefs, forming a perpendicular wall to seaward,
SUPPLEMENT. 1 1
and elevated a foot or two out of the water in some places in which sand has collected ;
there are also a few black rocks interspersed on them. We only approached the
southern of the two reefs near enough to see distinctly its whole extent ; the southern
one was seen at a greater distance, therefore I cannot pretend to give any particular
account of the limit in that direction. — (N. Mas;. 1842, ji. 824.)
There is said to bean extensive reef, on which the Goiconda and other vessels have
struck, nearly midway between the Cagayanes and Point Nasog, the south point of
Panay Island.— (iV. Mag. 1843, p. 35. f
SIMIRARA ISLANDS.— Mr. Laird, Master of the barque Chusan, from the
information of Capt. Spratly of the Cyrus whaler, mentions three low islands, sur-
rounded by an extensive reef from Ion. 121° 30' E., till near the Caravaos Islands, with
a passage between them, and also between them and Semirara ; the same reef that the
Francis, Charlotte, and Camden were wrecked on in 1839. — (iV. Mag. 1843, p. 35.)
The barque Chusan, on 29th .Tune, 1842, arounded on a reef in lat. 1 \° 51' N., Ion.
121°30'E.— (Z)o.)
APO SHOAL.— W.N.W. from the island ; off the outer edge of this shoal 10 or 12
miles, lies a rocky patch with 2f fathoms on the shoalest part, with a line of soundings
of 10 fathoms for some distance ; the whole length is about a mile. The boats of the
Merope and two London whalers have been on it several times. — (iV. Mag. 1842,
p. 286.)
INDEX TO SUPPLEMENT.
Amoy to Chusan . . .
Apo Shoal ...
Babuyan Islands ...
Cagayanes Islands
Canton River
Ceicer de Mer, Pulo
Cheduba Island
ChimmoBay
Chin-hae ...
Chusan Archipelago
False Island
Flat Island
Foul Island
Four-fathom Shoal
Henry Rock
Heywood Channel
Hong-kong
Page
... 8
Just-in-the-way ..
... 11
... 9
Lee-o-loo Bay
Nerbuddah Rock
... 10
... 6
... 5
Ningpo
Samboangan
Sam-sah Islands .
... 3
Santa Cruz Islands
... 7
... 9
Sayer Islands
Simirara Islands .
... 8
Tae-chow Islands .
... 4
Thousand Islands .
... 4
... 5
Tinghae
Tsongboo ...
... 5
Tree Island
... 4
West Shoal
... 5
William Shoal .
... 6
Yung-ning Bay .
Page
9
6
5
9
9
8
10
5
11
8
5
8
7
5
4
5
7
SUPPLEMENT. 13
AMHERST HARBOUR, Martaban. (Vol.ii. p. 27.)— The Honourable Captain
Grey, of H.M.S. Endymion, states that a new buoy has been placed on a patch of
foul ground outside the Reef. This buoy, until generally known, may puzzle strangers
running in, and if they pass to the westward of it with a strong flood tide, mistaking
it for the Reef buoy, they will have great difficulty in gaining the entrance of the
river.
BATAVIA. (Vol. ii. p. 156.) — A Time Ball is dropped from a post at the upper end
of the Canal at noon, Batavia Mean Time, and also at Ih. 7m. 28s., which is six hours
from Greenwich Mean Noon, allowing Batavia to be in 106° 32' E., or Ih. 7m. 28s. —
(^Captain Bethime, H.M.S. Conway, 1841.)
BANCA STRAIT. (Vol. ii. p. 170.)— The high tree, given as a distinguishing
mark for the Second Point on the Sumatra Shore, is now altogether removed, or
reduced to a mere stump, and is no longer to be looked for as a leading mark.
A wreck with the lower mast-heads above water is reported to lie in 7 fathoms
and bearing from Lucepara Island S. by E. 13 or 14 miles.
Nanka Islands. (Vol. ii. p. 171.) — H.M.S. Belleisle anchored here in May
1842, and sent boats for water to the watering-place described as on the N.E. side of
Great Nanka. The tide having ebbed, the boats were unable to return to the ship
round the S.E. point of the island, by which route they came, and the shoals appeared
to extend much farther to the South and East than is indicated by the Directory or the
outline of the chart. Mr. Bradley, the Master, who makes these remarks, recommends
ships intending to water, to anchor well to the westward near the Little Nanka, and to
send their boats round the N.W. instead of round the S.E. Point. The water is good,
but much care is necessary to avoid the salt water which flows into it. The Belleisle
was watering at Nanka night and day, and only filled 30 tons in 36 hours. This cir-
cumstance, together with the distance of the watering-place and the bad landing for
the boats, leads Mr. Bradley to advise stopping in preference at Mew Bay when prac-
ticable, where better water and a more abundant supply may be much more readily
obtained. He also recommends watering at Mew Bay in preference to Singapore ;
the water being better, more easily obtained, and there being no expense in procuring
it. The Nankas appear to abound in wild hogs. The natives are not to be trusted,
but on the contrary much caution is necessary, while watering, not to leave the casks,
&c., without a sufficient number of men. The Belleisle nearly lost one of her crew by
inadvertently leaving him alone for a few minutes.
ANAMBA ISLANDS. (Vol. ii- P- 305.)— Captain Goldsmith, of H.M.S. Hya-
cinth, asserts that the small islands shewn on the charts between Pulo Domar and
Saddle Island do not exist. He describes Saddle Island as having discoloured water
f of a mile off its N.E. end, with regular soundings of 33 and 35 fathoms, sand and
shells, about \\ miles to the westward of it.
CHINA SEA. — Mr. E. Smith, of the ship Thomas Harrison, mentions a shoal, not
having more than 16 feet on it, in lat. 1° 7'S. ; Pulo Taya bearing N. \ W. and the
Seven Islands E. \ S. As near as he could judge while sailing across it, it was
from 1^ to 2 miles long, with irregular soundings, varying between 5 and 2| fathoms,
hard ground. — {Shippiug Gazette, 1 July, 18-12.)
vol. II. b
J 4 SUPPLEMENT.
RHIO STRAIT. (Vol. li. p. 202.) — In her passage from Singapore through this
Strait in April, 1843, H.M.S. Belleisle grounded near the island of Tercoli. When
ao-round, Tercoli bore from N. by W. to N. VV. | W., offshore about half a mile ; Bin-
tang Saddle N.E. f E. ; Beringa E. f S. with the town of Rhio just open of it. The
botrom was stiff blue mud, with irregular depths, from 2 to 7 fathoms round the ship.
Mr. Bradley, the Master of the ship, says that the south side of Tercoli is shoal, in
many places not more than 4 feet water at the distance of two cables from the shore,
and recommends ships leaving Rhio to keep the Flag-staff of the upper town open to
the southward of the highest part of Beringa until Little Luban bears N.W. by W. ^
W., and then running with that bearing they will clear the shoals. From the soundings
which were ol)tained, he thinks there is no safe passage between Tercoli Island and
the Minerva shoal.
CATWICK ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 33.3.)— The shoal to the south-eastward of
Pulo Sapata, which has been considered doubtful, and the report of which has been
thought to proceed from the tide ripple (see p. 335 of Vol. ii.) is retained in the Admi-
ralty chart under the name of Hopkins Bank. Its actual position is still doubtful, but
it is there placed 10 miles S.E. by S. of Pulo Sapata.
There is also said to be a bank 20 miles E.S.E. of Pulo Sapata, with no more than
14 feet water on it. The Christopher Rawson, of London, is reported to have been
lost on this bank.— (iV. Mag. 1843, p. 757.)
CHINA COAST. (Vol. ii. p. 426.)— The following Remarks and Directions for
the Coast of China between Amoy and the Yang-tse-kiang have been furnished
by Captains Kellett and Collinson, R.N., whose surveys will shortly be published by
the Admiralty : —
Shoals near Bctweeu Chapel Island and the Main are two shoals. The extremes of the
Chapel Island, goyji^g,.,^ ^^^ ^^^^ f^.^,^^ Chapcl Island S. 60° VV. to S. 79° W. The south extreme,
having only one fathom on it, is distant 7^ miles. The northern extreme, having 3^
fathoms, is distant 5^ miles ; the direction and extent of the shoal is N.N.E. tl\ miles.
When on the shoalest part. Chapel Island bears N. 60° E. and the Island of Nanting
N. 63° W. The northern shoal bears from Chapel Island N. 80° W., distant 8^ miles ;
it is formed by a number of pinnacle rocks, which shew at low water spring tides,
having deep water between them. Four miles due North of this shoal, with Chapel
Ting-taeBay. Island bearing S. 60° E., is the small bay of Ting-tae, which affords shelter for small
vessels in the Northern Monsoon ; it may easily be known by the flat table head, with
three chimneys on it, forming the eastern point of the bay, and the ruin of a wall
encompassing a hill above it. The Pagoda of Nan-tae-woo-shan is immediately over
this bay, bearing N. 15° VV.
Amoy Har. Remarks on the Harbour of Amoy, by Captain Collinson, have already appeared in
the Directory, Vol. 2, p. 427 ; the following have been since received.
The channel between the rocks and Woo-seu-shan is five cables wide, with deep
water, but it is dangerous for ships in consequence of the chow-chow* water. The
passage to the northward and westward of Woo-seu is dangerous, being strewed with
rocks.
* Cliotr-chow water, according to Captain Kellett, is a term applied to those ripplings of the water occa-
sioned by the meeting of adverse currents, or other similar causes, the agitation of which is frequently so vio-
lent as to lender a ship unmanageable when within their influence.
SUPPLEMENT. 15
The channel between the island of Koo-long-seii and Amoy is so narrow, that a
stranger would not be justified in passing througli it until he iiad anchored and made
himself acquainted with the marks. A rock, at the entrance of this narrow strait,
called Cokers Rock, with only 4 feet on it at low water spring tides, may be avoided
by bringing the centre of Hau-seu (Monkey Island) on witli a remarkable peak, the
highest but one, on the land behind it. When the rock oft' the south tangent of
Koo-long-seu isinline with Pagoda Island, and a pinnacle rock oft'the eastern extreme
of Koo-long-seu is in line with a remarkable tree point on that island, you are on it.
From this position, a vessel should keep as close to the Amoy shore as the junks
anchored oft' it will allow. The small island oft" the City Point has deep water close
to it; between this island and Hau-seu is tlie best anchorage for a ship, having a
reef that extends from City Point in a N.N.W. direction lying to the northward of
her. Vessels cannot anchor in the strait without great risk of losing their anciiors,
as the bottom is very uneven. North of the island of Koo-long-seu is a pinnacle
rock nearly covered at spring tides, and distant three cables from the shore. The
mud dries between this rock and the island. All the points of Koo-long-seu have
rocks oft' them ; oft' the S.W, extreme there is a half-tide rock, 1| cables from the
shore.
To the westward of Koo-long-seu there is a good and safe anchorage in 7 or 8
fathoms. Close to either shore the water is deep, but in the centre there is a bank
with from 7 to 9 fathoms on it. Vessels wishing to anchor oft'the town should use this
passage, and by keeping the rocks of the western extreme of Koo-long-seu in line with
remarkable sharp peak on the south shore of the harbour until the peaked rock oft'the
north end of Koo-long-seu bears to the southward of East, she will avoid the mud
bank and rocks runiung oft^ that island, and may choose her berth ofl^ the city. The
channel round the island of Amoy is so narrow and winding, that directions would be
useless ; the chart is the best guide. Besides the excellent shelter that this harbour
aftbrds, the Chinese have docks for building and repairing their largest junks. Fresh
water, and supplies of every description, may also be had, of the best quality and
cheap.
Shelter may be obtained under Queraoy, but the entrance is not yet well known or Quemoy.
sounded.
N. 74° E. from Chaw-chat, distant 16 miles, is a small indentation of the coast, called Lee-oioo Bay.
Lee-o-loo Bay, where small vessels shelter themselves from the violence of the North-
east Monsoon, by bringing the south extreme rocky point of Quemoy in line with
Nan-tae-woo-shan Pagoda, and as close as possible to the point forming the eastern
head of the bay, in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, with fair holding ground. There is a
village amongst some trees at the head of the bay, with a fort on a bluflT to the west-
ward of it. The land over it is high and easily distinguished.
E.N.E., five miles from Lee-o-loo Point, is Dodd's Island, called by the Chinese
Pak-ting ; it is distant from the nearest part of Quemoy 2^ miles. There appears to
be no channel between it and the shore, and a reef extends some distance to the north-
ward of it.
N. 35 E., 5 miles from Dodd's Island, is the point of Hoo-e-tow, in lat. 24' 31' Hooe.tow
N., and Ion. 118° 31' E. This bay affords good shelter from north-easterly winds. It
may be easily known by two very remarkable peaks situated in the bottom of the bay.
The Eastern Peak bears from the point N. 45° W. There is a shoal in the centre of
the bay, which extends 2 or 3 miles in a W.N.VV. direction. This shoal may be
b 2
Bay.
IQ SUPPLEMENT.
avoided by keeping a remarkable hill in-land, resembling a dome, open to the south-
ward of the eastern high peak in the depth of the bay. In entering, a vessel should
o-ive tlie point of the bay a berth of at least three-quarters of a mile, for there is a reef
runnin"- oft' it on which the water generally breaks. The best anchorage is o AT Oyster
Islandj but as vessels do not visit this bay except for shelter, it would be advisable to
anchor just inside the point, with it bearing E. by S. or E.S.E. South of Oyster
Island there is a ledge of sunken rocks, which at low water have only a few feet on
them. To avoid these rocks, keep Oyster Island to the eastward of North. Vessels
from the southward intending to anchor should not stand too far into the bay until it
is better known ; there are overfalls from 10 to 4 fathoms, and there may be less water.
The junks go to Amoy by this passage, and the Chinese say there is water for small
vessels, but it must be very intricate.
The coast between this and Chimmo Bay is clear of dangers, and the general sound-
ino-s are from 12 to 15 fathoms. There is no shelter for vessels, but junks anchor
Chimmo Bay. Under some of the pomts.
The small Pagoda Island off the south-eastern point of Chimmo Bay is in lat.
24° 42' N., Ions:. 118° 42' E. This bay may be known by a Pagoda (called by the
Chinese Ku-sau-tah) on the highest hill in the northern end of the bay. Although
vessels lie here throughout the year, it cannot be called a good anchorage, as it is
exposed from E. by N. to S.S.E. Vessels entering this bay from the northward must
not approach the land nearer than one mile, as there is a rock, which shews at low
water, half a mile offshore, on which a vessel called the Fairy struck, and from which
it now takes its name.
W. by S., 1^ cables from the rocky islet off the northern point of the bay, is a ledge
of rocks, which uncovers at low water, and on which the sea generally breaks. Haifa
mile VV.N.W. of the northernmost rocky island, off the S.E. point, are two sunken
rocks ; to clear which, keep a remarkable clump of trees in the depth of the bay on
with the right shoulder of the high land in the N.W. part of the bay. There are
rocks a short way from the beach all round the bay. The best anchorage for vessels is
as close to the northern shore as the water will allow; the holding ground is good.
There are several very large towns in the bay, and numberless fishing boats ; supplies
may be had at a cheap rate.
From Chimmo Bay the land stretches to the eastward as far as 119° 10' E. ; it is
very much indented, and but little known except to vessels trading to Chin-chew or
Ock-seu Tsiuenchan-fu with opium.
Ock-seu (or Wukiu, probably a contraction of Wukiu-su) consists of three islands ;
the centre one a barren rock joining the eastern island. The steamer Nemesis
anchored under this island. There is a considerable fishing village on it, which is
difficult to be seen unless very close. The western island is the largest, and is in lat.
24° 59' N., Ion. 119° 29' E.
W.N.W. 12 miles is a group of islands, consisting of one large and four small, with a
reef to the northward of them, called Soot-zee. These islands were seen from Ock-seu,
Lam-yit ' but uot examined.
N.N.E. 121 miles from Ock-seu is the largest of the Lam-yit Islands, called by the
Chinese Chung-tung-shan. It is 7 miles long in an E.S.E. and W.S.W. direction.
The eastern peak is the highest, being 565 feet above the sea ; it is in lat. 25° 12' N., and
Ion. 119° 36' E. There is a remarkable table-land to the south-westward of it, called
Powshan. This island is very low and narrow in several places, and has a remarkable
Island.
Jslands.
SUPPLEiMENT. 1 7
conical hill towards its west end. The channel to the westward of it has not been
examined : notwithstanding its barren appearance, it is very populous.
To the northward of the large Lara-yit is a group of small islands, called the is yu islands,
Eighteen Yit Islands ; between this group and the large island there are numerous
rocks and shoals, rendering the bay perfectly useless for shipping.
N. 81° E., 6 miles from the highest peak of the Lam-yit, is an islet called Cap, which Cap island.
is the south-eastern of the Eighteen Yit. Vessels entering the Hae-tan strait should
pass to the eastward of this and of the Double Island, 3 miles to the northward of it, keep-
ing to the westward of a group called the Reef Islands, which bears from the Cap Reef islands.
N. 49° E. 5 miles. N.N.E., 4 miles from Double Island, is a remarkable white island
with sandy beaches and detached hills ; the channel between this and the Reef Island
group is foul, having many rocks in it, but it has not been sufficiently examined. After
passing to the westward of Sand Island, which has several rocky islets on its N.W. face,
a pagoda situated on the point of a shoal bay, with the ruins of a town, will be seen to
the westward. Here vessels will have smooth water, protected from the easterly swell
by Three Chimney Island, which is the large island immediately to the northward of
Sand Island. In the centre of the channel, between this island and the pagoda, the
water is deep. The best anchorage is close under the shore of Hae-tan, near to Obser-
vatory Island, avoiding a reef to the westward of it, which is nearly covered at high
water spring tides. Observatory Island is in lat. 25° 25' N., and long. 119° 45' E.
The passage to the westward of Hae-tan has not been examined through, but as far
as the examination has gone, the channel has proved narrow, with a great many
dangers, of the approach to which the lead gives no warning. A vessel leaving this
anchorage bound to the northward must give the south point of Hae-tan a good berth,
as there are several rocks off it.
North 80° East, 5^ miles from the Three Chimneys, and S. 65° W., 7 miles from Dangerous
Turnabout Island, is a very dangerous shoal. Vessels coming from the northward, ^hoai.
intending to enter the harbour, after passing Turnabout, should steer for Triple
Island, passing within a mile of it, being very careful not to approach the south
point of Hae-tan too close.
Turnabout Island is in lat. 26° 26' N., and long. 119° 59' E. ; it is distant from Turnabout
the nearest or south-east point of Hae-tan four miles ; it has two small islets in its ^*'''"'^"
neighbourhood. The channel between it and Hae-tan is safe. Under the eastern
point there were several large junks seen at anchor, and a considerable village. Unless
this anchorage gives good shelter, there is no bay on the eastern coast of Hae-tan that
vessels ought to enter, as they are strewed with rocks and shoals. Under the high
peak of Hae-tan, and to the eastward, is a bay that was entered by the surveying-
vessels. Starling and Plover, in a strong north-easterly wind, out of which they were
glad to get, and lucky in having escaped getting ashore ; but the entrance into it and
the anchorage is full of rocks, with a heavy swell when blowing hard.
The high peak of Hae-tan is in lat. 25° 36' N., and Ion. 119° ol'S E., and its
elevation above the sea 1,420 feet. The north coast and the northern entrance of the
straits, as seen from the peak, presented to view many rocks and islands, which would
always render the entrance from the northward and the navigation of tlie straits
extremely dangerous. The Wliite Dog Islands bear N. 14° E., 23 miles from the peak
of Hae-tan.
The \A hite Dog group, called by the Chinese Pih-keuen, has two large and one P[h-keuen, or
smaller island : one mile and a half north-east from the eastern island is a rock, on uunds. "^
18 SUPPLEMENT.
which the sea generally breaks. Anchorage for ships of any draught may be had
under the western island in the North-east Monsoon. A reef of rocks running off
from the western extreme of this island, forming a natural breakwater, affords good
shelter close under them for vessels under 18 feet draught: — here whole fleets of
Chinese junks anchor during foul weather. As the water decreases gradually
towards the island, large ships may approach as convenient (keeping in mind that there
is 18 feet rise and fall). H.M.S. Cornwallis, Vice-Admiral Sir W. Parker, anchored
here for five days with strong north-easterly winds, and rode easy. The bearings from
her anchorage were as follows: — West point of north-west extreme, N. |^ W. ; village
N.N.E. ; smallest island, E. ^ S. ; 8 fathoms at low water.
A large ship ought to approach the island until the passage between them is shut
in by their tangents. One cable off the western point of Village Bay, on the south
side of the western island, is a half-tide rock. The channel between the islands is
safe, as the dangers shew. The breakwater is in lat. 25° 58'- 1 N., and long. 119° 57' E.
The highest peak of the islands is 598 feet above the sea. Fresh water may be ob-
tained here in small quantities. These islands are inhabited by a few fishermen,
iiiver Min. Vessels bouud for the river Min from the anchorage under the White Dog Islands
should start with the ebb tide. The entrance bears N. 55° W., 8^ miles from
the breakwater. When this distance has been run, a good look-out must be
kept from the mast-head for Rees Rock (a small black rock, about 20 feet high) on
the southern side of the channel, which will be seen bearing N. 71° W., 4^ miles.
This will place the vessel about 8 miles from the land. The channel between the
breakers is 2 miles across at the entrance, and gradually decreases to half a mile.
There is a remarkable sharp peak on the north bank of the river, and a square
peak on the south bank nearer than Square Peak ; and to the southward of it Round
Island will be seen, and to the southward of that is a sharp sandy peak, bearing
about S. 08° W. This latter may be mistaken for the sharp peak of the north bank of
the river, unless the bearings of the White Dog' group be referred to.
Eastward of the north horn of the channel is a dangerous reef, which shews at low
water. The bearings on it are Matsooshan Peak, N. 54° E. ; Sea Dog, N. 88° E. ;
W. White Dog Peak, S. 45^° E. ; Sand Peak, S. 59° W.; Sharp Peak, N. 71° W. ;
and Rees Rock in line with the south peak of Square Peak Island. The best mark
to keep to the southward of it, and for entering the channel, is to bring Rees Rock in
line with Square Peak, bearing N. 81° W. There is a small knoll, with 2^^ fathoms
on it at low water, in the centre of the passage ; it bears S. 86 E., 3^ miles from Rees
Rock, and the above leading mark will keep you clear of it.
Having entered, steer so as to pass one mile North of Rees Rock ; the breakers will
shew on each side of the channel, if it be near low water at the time, and there is any
swell. Should the breakers shew, by skirting the northern shoal a vessel will insure
the deepest water. The course from Rees Rock is N. 68° VV., on which bearing a
remarkable pinnacle rock on the north-east side of Hokeanga is in line with a white
battery on the northern shore of the Kinpai Mun. In going up, keep the two islets,
called the Brothers, on the face of the island of Hokeanga, in one. This will carry
you in mid-channel until you are abreast of Sharp Peak Point, when you can haul
up N. 55° W. for Temple Point, which is on the north bank of the river, and will be
known by the trees on it.
In the channel without Rees Rock, the depth of water is generally 3 fathoms.
Between Rees Rock and Sharp Peak Point, close to the northern breakers, there is
SUPPLEMENT. 19
a hole, with 5 and 6 fathoms, where vessels may stop a tide, and find tolerable
shelter. Sharp Peak Point may be passed within a cable's lenj2;th. The bay
west of it is shoal, and under the peak the 2 fathoms' line extends nearly one mile
from the shore. The mud also extends south-easterly from Hokeanga nearly 1^ mile :
vessels beating in this passage must, therefore, keep the lead going.
Woga Fort is a dilapidated circular building on the top of the first hill, on the Woga Fort.
island west of Sharp Peak. The junks laden with timber lie immediately under
it, until the whole convoy is collected, sometimes amounting to 80 sail. S. 17° W.,
3^ cables from the Temple (called Hoktow or Fn-tau), is a knoll, with only 2;^ fathoms
on it. Sharp Peak seen over the lower part of Woga Point will put you on it.
From the West Brother the mud extends westerly one mile ; on its northern edge is a
patch of rocks, which are covered at a quarter flood. The West Brother bears
from it S. 74° E., and the Temple N. 12° E.
From the Temple to Kinpae-mun is not quite 2 miles W.b.S. There are two islets
at the entrance of the passage. Pass between them, and keep over towards the south
shore to avoid a reef which lies W.b.S. ^ S. from the northern islet. The channel
is not quite 2 cables' length wide, and should only be attempted at slack tide, for the
chow-chotv water renders a vessel unmanageable.
Two cables to the westward of Kinpae Point is the tail of a sand-bank, to avoid
which keep the southern shore close on board ; the distance between it and the edge
of the bank being under 2 cables. When abreast of the Ferry House, which is 1^
mile above Kinpae, and on the right or southern bank, edge over to the other shore,
passing Wedge Islet at a cable's length. Tree Point will then be seen on the southern
bank. A half-tide rock bears N. 9° W., 4|^ cables from it. When on it, the Ferry
House is in line with Kinpae Point. On the northern shore, after passing Wedge Islet,
are two rocky points extending nearly a cable's length from the embankment.
This reach runs S. W.b.S., and N.E.b.N. At the distance of miles from Kinpae-
mun, the river narrows again to 3| cables, the land rising on each side to 1,500 and
2,000 feet. The town of Min-gan is on the left or northern bank of the river, 1 mile
within the strait. The river continues narrow for 3 miles, the depth of water being
above 12 fathoms, and in some places no bottom at 29 fathoms. Vessels will have
some difficulty in getting through this strait with spring tides, unless with a leading
wind, in consequence of the chow-chow water. Rather more than half a mile above
Min-gan, and on the same side of the river, is an islet crowned with a fort.
The banks of the river on each side are steep clifl^s with many batteries. At the
upper, or south end of the gorge are two islets on the right bank of the river.
In going up, leave these islands on your larboard hand, passing close to the northern
one of the two, to avoid a shoal patch of \^ fathoms, which lies 2 cables W.?s\W.
from the island. Having passed this island, keep along the right bank, gradually
hauling up for the pagoda Lo-sing-tah. When you have passed the low point of the
island on which it is situated, anchor east of it. S. 12° E. from the pagoda, rather
more than 2 cables, is a sunken rock, which shews only at low water spring tides.
It is recommended to pass close to the pagoda, if vessels intend proceeding up higher;
but as the river is only navigable for vessels three-quarters of a mile beyond the
pagoda, and the channel is not only narrow, but the tides are stronger, it would be
advisable not to go above it.
Above the pagoda the river turns abruptly to the north-west. The city of Foo-chow-
foo is situated on the left bank of the river, 9 miles above the pagoda; the distance
20
SUPPLEMENT.
Ma-tsoo-sban
Island.
Cliang-clie.
shan Island.
Trio Rocks.
Laine Rock
and Islet,
Tung-yuug
Peak.
to the city, by the river, from the rocks at the entrance, is not quite 34 miles.
Four miles below the city the river is staked half-way across, and the remainder ren-
dered difficult even for junks to pass, by large piles of stone which are covered at high
water.
Due north of the AVestern White Dog is a large island, called Ma-tsoo-shan, and
between the two, N. 14° E. from the White Dog, is a precipitous black rock, about
60 feet high, with reefs about it, called the Sea Dog. Between the Sea Dog and
Ma-tsoo-shan there are two other reefs, which are never covered. There is also an
island off the eastern end of Ma-tsoo-shan, -with a reef running ofi'in its eastern point.
Shelter may be had under this island from the North-east Monsoon. There is a deep
bay on its north-western face, where good shelter may be had from the North-west
Monsoon. From the peak of this island the reef at the entrance of the Min River
bears S. 54° W., 7^ miles. In the northern, and also in the western sandy bays, fresh
water may be obtained.
North-east, 3 miles from Ma-tsoo-shan, is another large island, called Chang-
che-shan, with two very remarkable sharp peaks on it; the highest is elevated
above the sea 1,030 feet, and in lat. 26° 14' N., and Ion. 120° 2' E. The bay on the
.south side of this island aflbrds good shelter in the North-east Monsoon. Vessels
entering from the northward may round the south-eastern horn of it close, and anchor
within the point in 6 fathoms.
Vessels bound to the river Min should anchor here, as from this anchorage in the
North-east Monsoon they may always get to the bar at the precise moment they require
it, but from the White Dogs a vessel will barely fetch. After a little intercourse
pilots might also be obtained, as there is a large fishing population on it. The coast
inside these islands, and north of the Min (Tinghae Bay), has not been examined ;
but from Mat-soo-shan Peak several rocks and numerous islands were seen.
On the northern face of Chang-che-shan are several islands, the largest of which
bears north 2^ miles. There is no safe passage between these islands.
N. 61° E. from the south-east point of the same island are three peaked rocks,
called the Trio Rocks, about 50 feet above the sea, between wliich and the point is
a safe channel. Care must be taken in approaching these islands from seaward to
avoid Alligator Island (called Tungsha) ; it is due east of Mat-soo-shan Peak 24^
miles. From the south extreme of the White Dog Island it bears N. 62° E., 25^ miles;
it is in lat. 26° 9' N., and Ion. 120° 26' E., about" 40 feet above the level of the sea,
and is a flat barren rock.
N. 56° W., 12^ miles from Alligator Island, is a small rock, called Larne Rock,
with one awash 2 cables to the northward of it. It bears from the high peak of
Chang-che-shan N. 80° E., and is distant from it 11 miles.
N. 11° E. from Larne Rock, distant 5^ miles, is Larne Islet; it bears from the high
peak of Chang-che-shan N. 58° E., 14 miles. It is about 200 feet high, with large
boulders sticking up here and there. Near the summit are three houses, and off its
northern and southern ends are ledges of rocks. N. 72° W., 7^ miles from Larne
Island, and bearing from Chang-che-shan Peak N. 25° E., 11 miles, is another patch
of rocks, about 40 feet above the .sea.
The Peak of Tung-yung bears from Larne islet N.84°E., distant 14 miles, and is
the easternmost island on this part of the coast; the highest part of it is in lat. 26°
13'-2 N., and Ion. 120° 31' E., and elevated above the sea 853 feet. Its appearance
is level and flat topped, with steep clifi' shores ; off its south extreme is a ledge of
SUPPLEMENT. 21
rocks. There is another island half a mile to the north-westward of it. They appear,
however, as one, except on a N.E.b.N. or S.VV.b.S. bearing. Under this island there is
good anchorage during the North-east Monsoon. North, half a mile from the eastern
point of the western island, is a sunken rock, Tung-yung has a large village and
fishing establishment on its western side.
N. 68° W., 20 miles from Tung-yung, is a remarkable conical island; it has a Cone island.
reef oft' its north-east point ; with this exception, the channel between it and the two
islands north of it is safe, and 2 miles wide. West of it 4^ miles is a large island
(Spider Island), with good shelter from the north-eastern winds on its western side. Spider island.
The highest part of the island is 620 feet above tiie sea ; the other peaks of it are nearly
the same height. There is a large village in a bay on the south side of it, and off" the
south-west point is a reef. On the north-east face of it are four islets, and one on the
north-west, between which and Spider Island there is a half-tide rock. To the west-
ward are many islets and rocks.
Four miles north-east of Spider Island is a large island, with two remarkable cones
on its northern end, called Double Peak Island : it is 3^^ miles long, and its highest DouWe Peak
peak 1,190 feet high. There is very good anchorage, the best being under its southern
point, the two small islands north of Cone Island sheltering you from the eastern
swell. Between it and the main there is a good channel, .3 miles wide, whose depth
varies from 6 to 18 fathoms. The mainland to the westward of this island is high,
with very remarkable conical peaks, and much indented. Water and a few vegetables
may be had here.
N.E.b.E., 10 miles from Double Peak, is a group of islands called Pih-seang-shan, Piiiseang.
orTsih-sing. The northern one is the largest. There is at the south-west angle a small sjng.'"
bay, which would afllbrd shelter to two or three small vessels. This is a Chinese vice-
admiral's station, and when the surveying vessels visited it, there were three war junks
at anchor in the bay. Between the northern and the southern islands of this group
there is a safe passage, but the bay is thickly studded with fishing stakes. The north-
ern island is in lat. 26° 42'-5 N., and long. 120° 23' E. The southern, which is a
detached rocky island, is about 60 feet above the sea, in lat. 26° 39' N. Between this
group and the main the average depth of water is 9 fathoms.
Due North, 12 miles from the Pih-seang-shan group, is a high island, called Fuh- Fuh-yaou-shan
yaou-shan, 1,700 feet above the sea, with a good harbour between it and the main ; it ^™"'''
is in lat. 26° 56'-l N., and long. 120° 23' E. The entrance to the northward is
broad and open ; the south-eastern channel is only one cable wide. Good water is
plentiful and easily obtained here. N. 60° E., 5 miles from Fuh-yaou-shan, is a group
of small islands affording no protection, but having no danger near them ; and N. 13°
E. 5^ miles, is a solitary islet, having a reef off" its eastern end. The south-western
entrance to Fuh-yaou-shan harbour will probably be found better than the eastern ; it
has not, however, been yet examined.
S. 74° E., 10 miles from Fuh-yaou-shan, and N. 45° E., 15 miles from Pih-seang- ^^^8"ous
shan, is a very dangerous rock, over which the sea breaks ; it is in lat. 26° 53' N., and
Ion. 120° 34' E. N. 80° E., 16 miles from the eastern point of Fuh-yaou-shan,
there is a small group of islands, called Tae-shan {i. e. Table Hill) ; the easternmost ^^Y*'??'!!"
large island (remarkable for its table top) is situated in lat. 25° 50'-5 N., and Ion.
120° 44' E., and is 618 feet above the sea. S. 25° W. from Table Island, are two rocky
islets, about 100 feet high, and which are almost joined. There is bad shelter to be
had between the two largest islands, as close (half a cable or less) to the Table Island
VOL. II. c
22
SUPPLEMENT.
Pih-quan
Harbour.
Nam-quan
Island.
Nam-ke-slian.
Pih-ke-slian
group.
Pih-quan, is a rock level
cable's length nearly north-
as a vessel can with safety go. There is a passage between the two islands, and to the
north-east of the western large islands there is a most remarkable mushroom rock,
about 2(30 feet high, and joined to the islands by reefs at low water. There is an
indentation on the eastern face of the middle large island, that afibrds shelter to a
number of small fishing junks.
JN.60°E., 7^ miles from Table Island, are three small rocky islets, with several
rocks awash near them. Three miles to the N.N.W. of these is another rock,
about 50 feet above water, and is remarkable from its being cleft in two. To the
westward, between this group and the harbour of Pih-quan, there are also several
rocks, which only shew at low water. From the number of rocks and shoals about
these islands, all of which may not yet be discovered, it will be necessary for ves-
sels to approach this part of the coast with great caution, or, indeed, to avoid it
in this latitude altogether.
N. 45° W., 14 miles from the Tae-shan group, is the island and harbour of Pih-
quan; it is in lat. 27° 9''7 N., and Ion. 120° 33' E., and will afford good shelter in
the North-easterly Monsoon for vessels drawing 15 feet.
Three-quarters of a mile East of the south point of
■with tiie water's edge, with a reef that is covered, half a
west of it.
This roadstead is 1^ mile broad, and has 3 fathoms in it. Fresh water may be
got in the sandy bay at the foot of the Three Chimneys on Pih-quan.
To the westward of tlie roadstead is the island of INam-quan, within which is a
deep bight, and a walled city. To the northward of it, on the main, is a most
remarkable peak, called by the fishermen Pih-quan Peak. The boundary line of
the provinces of Chekiang and Fukien passes through Pih-quan Harbour.
N. 35° E., distant 30 miles from the Tae-shan group, is a group of islands, the
largest of which is called by the Chinese Nam-ke-shan. It consists of one large and
fourteen smaller islands; the large island is 737 feet above the sea, and has a good har-
bour on its south-eastern side in the North-east Monsoon, where there is a good water-
ing place. The eastern horn of the harbour is in lat. 27°2t)'-3 N., and Ion. 121° 1' E.
Vessels should not pass between the islets which form the south-west part of the group,
as there are many reefs which cover at high-water. The westernmost island makes
like a cone, and has reefs to the northward. The southern islet is a castellated rock,
and is distant from the rest of the group five miles.
W.b.S., 24 miles from Nam-ke-shan, on the main, is an apparently good harbour,
and most probably is that called Pepa-shan, on the Admiralty chart.
N.N.E., 10 miles, is a group of islands, the largest of which, called Pih-ke-shan,
in lat. 27°37'N., and Ion" 121° 12' E. There are four small islets close to it, which
protect the anchorage oft' the south-west end of the island from the easterly swell.
Vessels should not anchor under tl)ese islands unless from necessity, as they have
so much better anchorage either to the northward or southward of them. Fresh
water may be obtained. There is an extensive fishing establishment on the island.
West, 11 miles from Pih-ke-shan, is another group of one large and four smaller
islands. The largest is called Tungpwan-shan {i. e. Brass-basin I.). Between this
group and Pih-ke-shan are five detached islets. The main is distant 15 miles to the
Avestward of Tungpwan-shan, the hills rising to 1,000 or 1,200 feet, with extensive
plains between them, which are protected from encroachment of the sea by em-
bankments. Between it and the main there are two groups of islands, under which
StPPLEMENT. 23
a fleet of junks, probably from Wanchow-foo, took shelter during a north-easterly
gale.
Eight miles N.N.W. from Pih-ke-shan are the Tseigh Islands, of which there are Xseigh islands,
three, the North Tseigh, the South Tseigh, and the East Tseigh, in the space between
which there are clusters of rocks, interspersed with reefs, which cover at half-tide. Ves-
sels cannot go between these groups without great risk, as there may be many rocks
not yet laid down. The Tseigh Islands form the south extreme of a very large and
numerous group of islands; to the northward and westward of these, between them
and the Ta-kie Islands, is an excellent anchorage sheltered from all winds, called Bul-
lock Bay. The best entrance into this bay is to the northward of the Tseigh Islands,
between them and Pwan-pien-shan. Here water may be procured, and from the
natives bullocks of the best description, and in any quantity, may be obtained.
The harbour may be known by a remarkable conical island, called Coin Island, Coin island.
with three rocks near it, which is the north-easternmost of this group, and is in lat.
27° 50' N., and Ion. 121° 15' E.
W.S.W. of Coin Island is a flat island, with rocks off its south extreme, and two
rocky islets to the westward, between which and Tong-tau-shan there is a safe passage
in 8 fathoms.
Tong-tau-shan, the largest of the group, and forming the northern boundary of Bul-
lock Bay, is 6 miles in length and 2^ miles in extreme breadth. Its eastern face is
high and precipitous. Between it and Pwan-pien-shan there is a junk passage, but it
is not available for vessels.
North of Tong-tau-shan there are two large islands, Meaow-shan and Chwang- ^^^^^";'^^"
yung-shan. The channel between them is shoal, having only 3 fathoms. yung.shan.°
JVIeaow-shan and Chwang-yung-shan are separated by a channel too narrow for a
ship. The extent of the two islands is 9 miles.
N. 55° W., 8 miles from Meaow-shan, is the entrance of the Wang-chow-foo River, wangchow-
with an island in the mouth of it. trance'.'^*"^"
S. 65°, 5 miles from the same island, is a dangerous rocky shoal. The inhabitants of
Tung-tan-shan report that the approach to the entrance is very shallow. We found on
apjjroaching the main from Meaow-shan that the depth decreased to 4 fathoms.
To the northward of Meaow-shan are two large islands, Hoo-tow-shan and Low-ka, Hootow-shan
with two small islands between them. The channel between these islands, and that i^i^n^""'''*
between them and the main, have not been examined.
Hoo-tow-shan is remarkable from having two very large high peaks on it. 2^ miles to
the southward of Low-ka there are four cliff islets, and half a mile from the south point
of it is another islet. The Plover passed between these, and anchored to the westward
of a small islet on the S.W. side of Low-ka. In this bay the water shoals suddenly
from 19 to 6 fathoms.
N. 75°, E., 17 miles from Low-ka, is the easternmost island of the next group, called Pe-shan group.
•Pe-shan, in lat. 28° 5' N., Ion. 121° 32' E. It is three miles long from East to West,
has three rocks on its northern face and two islets on its southern. N.W. from it is a
sugar-loaf island, with a small one close to it, and W. by N. 1^ mile is another low
level island.
Ta-luk-shan is West from Pe-shan 5^ miles. This island is 771 feet high, and Xa-iuk shan.
affords good shelter on its western side in from 3 to 4 fathoms. On its eastern face is
a high and precipitous head.
c 2
24
SUPPLEMENT.
Seaou-luk-
shan.
She-Iung-mun.
Teaou-pung-
iiiun.
Cliik-Iiok
Island.
Tae-chow
Islands.
Seaou-luk-shan are three islands, Hmile south of Ta-luk-shan; between the two the
depth of water is 8 fathoms. To the westward of Ta-luk-shan 3 miles is Chin-ke-shan,
which has a large and populous town on it. There were better dressed and handsomer
women on this island than any other visited by the surveying vessels; they did not
shew the least sign of fear, and we were greatly indebted to their assistance in getting
poultry, eggs, pigs, &c.
To the nortliward of Ta-luk-shan 2 miles is another island, which is also populous.
Chin-ke-shan faces a deep bay on the main.
N.W., 24 miles from Ta-luk-shan, is a high conspicuous mountain on the main ; the
sea washes the foot of it, but the entrance into the sound was not explored. To the
westward of Seaou-luk-shan 6 miles is Nan-pan-shan, on which is a large and popu-
lous village. N. 45° E. IG miles from Pe-shan is a small island with a reef running
oft' its southern end, and which is the eastern island of a group. It is in lat. 23° 15'-8
JN., and Ion. 121° 44' E.
S.W., 2 miles from this island, are four small peaked rocks, with rocks awash
between them. West 2| miles is the island of She-tung-mun, having many small
rocky islets nearly joined to its southern extreme, and a reef to the westward of them.
A vessel may get very good shelter under this island unless the wind is to the eastward.
Between this island and Teaow-pung-mun are two islands; the eastern passage of
the two is a mile wide and has 3^ fathoms. N.E. of the centre island are three small
islets, with a reef extending from the eastern end of the northernmost.
To the southward of the roadstead are four islets; the largest is called San-she-shan.
The channel between them and Main is a mile wide, and has 4^ fatlioms through it.
The point opposite these islets is called Chin-seu-shan, and forms the S.E. horn of a
shallow bay, and is connected with the main by an isthmus occasionally overflowed.
Through the Teaou-pung-mun all the country trade passes, and from the number of
towns erected on this barren head-land it would appear that it is a stopping place for
the numerous junks that pass. When the Starling anchored in this roadstead there
were nearly 100 sail of junks at anchor. They all weighed together and passed
througli the main to the northward.
North 6 miles from the easternmost island of the Teaou-pung-mun is the island
Chik-hok, in lat. 28° 22' N., and Ion. 121° 44' E. It is 760 feet high, and bears from
the anchorage at the Tai-chows S. 58° W. ; it rises abruptly, and has a most remarkable
broad yellow stripe on its south-eastern side, forming one of the best leading marks for
the coast. There is an islet 1^ mile W.N.N, from it, oft' the north end of which there is
a half-tide rock. Westerly of Chik-hok is a crooked island, under which there may be
shelter, but between the two there is foul ground.
East of Chik-hok 9^ miles is Hea-chuh-shan, the southernmost island of the
Tae-chow group, in lat. 28° 13' N., Ion. 121° 55' E. This group extends i) miles in a
northerly direction from Hea-chuh-shan; it consists of two large and ten smaller
islands. Between the large islands is an excellent harbour, the approaches to which
both from the eastward and westward are free from danger. The best anchorage will
be found S.E. of the island, lying oft' tiie south-western extreme of Shang-ta-chin-
shan. The bay to the northward of this is too shoal for anchorage.
Between Shang-ta-chiu-shan and the small island H mile to the N.N.E. of it, there
is a safe passage. Several watering-places will be found on Shang-ta-chin-shan, but
the supply from any one of these is not very abundant.
SUPPLEMENT. 26
The southern large island, called Hea-ta-chin-shan, is the highest, its elevation
above the sea being 750 feet. It is well inhabited, and bullocks may be obtained
here. There are four islands and two reefs to the southward of it. Tlie southernmost
island, or Hea-chin-shan, has a remarkable finger rock off its south side. The west-
ern rock lies S. 22° W. 3^ miles from the highest part of Hea-ta-chin-shan, and
may be seen at all times of tide. N. 41° E., 4^ cables from the above rock, is another
reef that covers at high water; it bears from the peak of Hea-ta-chin-shan S. 20° W.
2f miles.
There is a good channel west of the Tai-chow group, and to the northward of Chik-
hok are numerous islands, many of which are joined at low water by mud.
]\. 55° W., distant 7 miles from the northern island of the Tai-chow group, are two
islands close together that may be mistaken for one, except on an E.N.E. and W.S.W.
bearing. Junks take shelter under the western point in strong N.E. winds. Off the
IN.E. and JN.W. points are rocks ; a reef also extends off its S.E. end.
Two and a half miles to the eastward of these is another cliff islet, which is the
easternmost of the group. The cliannel between these islands and the Tai-chows is
free from danger. The main land is distant 9 miles from the above islands, and the
dejjth of w ater between the two is from to 3 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards the
coast, which is very low, and dries a long way off.
North 10 miles from the northern Tai-chow is the easternmost of a large group of Xung-chuh-seu
islands, in lat. 28° 42' N., and Ion. 121° 55' E., called Tung-chuh-seu. Shelter may s™"p-
be obtained under it on its south side, but there is always a heavy swell, which renders
landing there very inconvenient. There are several rocks and islands within two miles
of its southern, and three islets on its northern face. There are several large islands
lying to the N.W., some of which no doubt would afford good shelter, but they have
not been yet examined.
Seven miles West, a little southerly from Tung-chuh-seu, lies the island of Chuh-seu, Chuh-scu-
with a sharp cone 670 feet above the sea, over its southern point. Midway between ^*'*"''"
the two, is a cluster of rocks, four in number, and S.S.W. from Tung-chuh-seu are two
islets with detached reefs bearing from it East 2 cables, and N. by W. 4 cables. On
the same bearing from it, 3 miles, are two islets, with a reef off the eastern end of the
southernmost. There is also a solitary cone island, bearing S. (30° E., 2f miles from
Chuh-seu. Good anchorage and a convenient watering place, with an abundant supply
of water, will be found under and to the south-westward of the peak of Chuh-seu, in
6 fathoms, between an island with a reef off its N.E. point and Chuh-seu. On the
peak at the N.W. end of Chuh-seu is a look-out and three chimneys, from whence they
communicate by signals w itlj Tai-chow-foo. The entrance of the river bears S. 88° W.
8 miles from Chuh-seu. The inhabitants reported that vessels of 1 2 feet draft could not
get over the bar except at high water, and that the tide, which rises in the neighbour-
hood from 18 to 20 feet, would carry a vessel up to the city. The channel between
Chuh-seu and the main appears to be shoal, with several rocks covered at high water.
Vessels therefore ought to pass to the eastward of the whole group until the inner
channel has been examined. South of Chuh-seu are several small islets with safe
passages between them.
There are several rocks and islands to the northward towards Sanmoon Bay, which
cannot be now described, not having been sufficiently examined.
N. 02° E. from Tung-chuh-seu, 17 miles, is the Hih-shan group, consisting of three Hih-shan
Islands.
26 SUPPLEMENT.
inhabited islands, and eight barren rocks. The group extends 4 miles in a North and
South direction, and 2 miles East and West. The southernmost island is the largest,
and makes like a saddle. It is 320 feet high, and is in lat. 28° 50'-8 N., and "ion.
122° 14' E. The rocks are steep, with remarkable cliffs. The sea has undermined
the north-eastern one so much, that it bears some resemblance to a large mushroom.
The inhabitants, who are Fokien men, call the island Ung-shan. The depth of water
in the vicinity is 20 fathoms. The islands are too small and too detached to afford
much shelter, but excellent fish may be obtained from the inhabitants, who are fisher-
men. There is also a fine stream of water on the island, but it would be difficult of
access.
Pata-he.cock. North from the highest of the Hih-shan Islands, and distant 32 miles, is Pata-he-
cock, the southernmost of the Kew-shan group. It bears from Cape Montague
N. 3a°E. 151 miles.
capeMon- N. 25° W., distant 22 miles, is Tan-tow-shan, or Cape Montague, in lat. 29° 10' N.,
"^"^' and Ion. 122° 2' E. It is an island separated from the main by a channel, varying
from 1 to If mile wide. The island is 738 feet high, and nearly divided into two
parts by a low shingly isthmus. Four miles to the southward of Cape Montague, and
nearly attached to the main, is a small islet, with a reef oft^ its eastern point.
Lea-ming. Twclvc uiiles S.S.W. of Cape Montague is Lea-ming, forming the northern and
eastern points of San-moon Bay, having a rock off its south-western end.
South of Cape Montague, and 3 miles from the coast, are four islets. The southern
one is 9 miles from the Cape ; the others are severally 3, 5, and 7 miles distant from
it, with good passages between them to enter San-moon Bay.
San-raoon Bay. Sau-moou Bay will readily be recognized by a remarkable thumb peak, called by
the opium vessels that frequent this bay, Albert Peak, and by the Chinese, Ta-
fuh-tow. It is about 800 feet high, and is in lat. 29° 5' N., and Ion. 121° 58' E.
Tri "klsLd'^ ''^- ^^° ^^•' 2i miles from Lea-ming, is San-chi-san, or Tripple Island, the depth
nppe san [jgf^yggQ jjjg j^^y being 10 Or 11 fathoms. Vessels entering, either to stop a tide or
driven in by the weather, will find good shelter from the North-east Monsoon to the
westward of Lea-ming. Care, however, must be taken in standing into this bay, as it
shoals suddenly. If the north peak of Lea-ming is not brought to the southward of
East there is no danger ; it is all soft mud in thebay.
Due West of Lea-ming, 6 miles, is a conical island, with a reef off its southern end.
InI"^p°!l:°' Ta-fuh-tow, or Albert Peak, is situated on an island to the northward of this half
a mile, but the channel between them has many rocks. In the northern extreme of
the bay, between Lea-ming and Albert Peak Island, is a small entrance to Sheipoo.
Having rounded the conical island, St. George Island (by the Chinese Ching-shan)
will be seen bearing N.W. 4 miles. The bay shoals gradually as you approach it, and
the anchorage half a mile south of it is secure in N.E. winds in 3 fathoms. There is
a well of good water in the island, but it is neither easily procured nor plentiful ; and
vessels in want of water will find it more convenient to anchor to the southward and
eastward of Albert Peak, where water may be easily obtained. The bay to the
northvyard of St. George Island is shoal and full of rocks. The isthmus between it
and Nirarod Sound is only 7 miles ; there is an entrance into Shei-poo 4 miles to the
north of it, which is frequently used by the junks.
Westward of St. George Island, 4 miles, is a group of islands, with many sunken
rocks oft them. The main land is distant 3 miles to the westward of this group, and
Albert Peak.
SUPPLEMENT.
27
forming
a conti-
Shei-poo Road.
rises immediately from the sea to the height of 900 or 1,000 feet,
nuous range of hills along the coast.
Vessels bound for Shei-poo Roads may pass close to the northward of Cape Mon-
tague, and run in due West for the forts, which will be seen on the summit of the
island forming the entrance to Shei-poo. North of the roadstead are three islands,
and South, 3 cables from the eastern end of the centre island (Wang-che-shan), are
the Bangoa Rocks, which always shew ; there is deep water close to them. To the Bangoa Rocks.
westward of Bangoa the water shoals off the centre island to 2^ fathoms 9 cables
from the land ; to avoid which, do not bring the higher fort to the southward of West.
Cliff Island, or Seao-seao, lies nearly in the centre of the roadstead ; off the N.W.
end of it anchorage will be found in 4 fathoms, mud. There is always a considerable
swell rolling in with a strong wind. Vessels passing between Cape Montague and
the main should keep to the eastward of Cliff Island, and pass between it and a rock
7 cables farther to the eastward.'
The deep bay on the western side of the cape is shoal, but the S.W. point is steep to.
A reef of rocks extends from tiie westward of Cliff Island, and the channel between
it and the main has only 3 fathoms in it. South of Cliff Island is another islet, and
the ground between them is foul.
From the roadstead into Shei-poo Harbour there are three entrances ; all are very
narrow with rapid tides and chow-chow water, rendering the navigation dangerous for
ships. Two of them are formed by Tung-mun, the island in which the forts are
situated. The third entrance is l:|;mile to the southward of Tung-mun, and is the best
of the three. At the entrance to it is a small flat island, with a reef of rocks extend-
ing easterly. A vessel should pass to the north-eastward of this island, as there is a
reef to the westward between it and the main. The town is situated on the main,
forming the north boundary of the harbour. It is walled, but the walls are in a most
dilapidated state. The houses and shops are not good. It derives its importance from
Cliff Island,
Seao-seao.
Bay near Cape
3Iontague.
Shei-poo Har-
bour.
its being a convenient port for the coasting trade. When in the harbour at
high
water it has the appearance of a splendid basin, but at low water the mud dries off
it a long distance, giving it the appearance of a river.
At the western extreme of the harbour is a narrow passage into San-moon Bay, and
midway between this passage and the town is a large island. South of this island is
another passage into San-moon Bay.
For the navigation between Cape Montague and Chusan, see Captain CoUinson's
directions for the Chusan Archipelago. (Vol. ii. p. 437.)
CHUSAN ISLANDS. (Vol.ii. p. 4U.)— South-east Channel, or Hea-ke-moon.—
Captain Tyndal, of the Pylades, recommends the channel to the westward of John
Peak rather than the deeper one to the eastward of that island, the channels between
John Peak and the island to the westward of it being wider, and there being snug
anchorage in case of the wind failing or other casualties.
Sunken Junk in Gougk Passage. — A junk is sunk in this passage, and has its
mast, shewing 4 feet above water. Marks for it are — extreme of three islands on the
flat of Robert Passage, N. 31° W.— summit of Foo-too-shan, S. 2U° W.— Cape Lo-
wang, S. 84° E.— Kittow Point, N. 47° E.
28
SUPPLEMENT.
Captain Collinson gives the folloiving Directions for the Yung-keang, or Ningpo
River.
Southern
Channel.
Middle Chan-
nel.
Northern
Channel.
Chin-hae to
Ningpo.
(Vol.ii. p. 451.) — The Tahea, or entrance to the Yung-keang, is divided into three
channels by the islets called Triangles in Thornton's Chart of 1703.
The first danger in the southern channel is a rock, which is covered at half-tide,
lying N. 70° E. from the summit of the eastern Triangle, 2^ cables distant. If the
inner Triangle, or Passage Island, be kept open of the south point of the outer one,
this danger will be avoided.
Having passed the east point of the outer Triangle, keep it, and also the middle
Triangle, close on board, to avoid a sunken well, with 8 feet on it, which lies in mid-
channel to the southward of the latter. When on the rock, a small islet, 8 miles to
the westward of Chin-hae, is in line with the foot of the high bluff beyond it.
Then steer to pass a cable's length to the eastward of the inner Triangle, which must
not be approached nearer than half a cable, or further than ll cables, and keep for the
foot of Chung-paou or Jos-house Hill, taking care that the tide does not set you over
on the southern side of the river, where the 2 fathoms bank is .5 cables from the shore.
The Chung-paou, or Chin-hae, side is steep to, and good anchorage in 3|^ fathoms will
be found under the hill outside the stakes.
The second channel, or that between the middle Triangle and the Inner or Passage
Island, is perhaps the best (where all are bad, and should not be attempted, espe-
cially at spring tides, without a pilot or local knowledge).
A mud spit extends westerly from the middle Triangle 1^ cables, which will be
avoided by keeping the Jos-house on the hill (Chung-paou) open of the west point of
Passage Island. Then steer as before, so as to pass 1 cable to the eastward of Pas-
sage Island.
The channel between Passage Island and Chung-paou Point is the broadest, but
has only 2 fathoms at low water.
The only danger is the Tiger's-tail (Hoo-wei-tseao), which is a half-tide rock, lying
rather more than one cable N. 40° W. from the highest part of Passage Island. When
on it, Peaked Islet (a small islet on the south side of the river opposite to Chung-paou)
is in line with River Hill (a remarkable brown peak), bearing S. 16° W. The river
is staked across from immediately under the Jos-house Hill to Peaked Islet, through
which there are two passages, one of which is close to the latter. The other, which
is in the centre of the river, is better ; sunken junks will be found on each side of the
opening to the southward of the stakes.
From Chin-hae (which will be seen on the north side of the river immediately you
are past the Jos-house Hill) to Ningpo the distance is 11^ miles by the river, which is
nearly straight, all the reaches, except one, lying to the southward of west, and has
an average width of 2 cables. Keep a mid-channel course, and, if drawing more
than 13 feet, wait for half-flood, as in one or two places there is not more than 2^
fathoms at low water.
At the city the river separates into two branches, the one taking a N.W. and the
other a S.b.W. direction. The latter is only one cable wide, and is crossed by a bridge
of boats a quarter of a mile above the junction.
SUPPLEMENT. 29
A spit extends off each point at the entrance to the former, which passes close to
the city walls, and has a depth of from 2^^ to 6 fathoms in mid-channel.
The Jos-house at Chin-hae (Chung-paou) is in
Latitude ... 29° 57 8'''' N.
Longitude . . 121° 43' G''' E.
Variation. . . 57' 30^ Easterly, 1841.
High water at full and change .... llh. 20m.
Rise and fall 12 feet 6 inches.
The best watering-place at Chinhae is on the south shore, eastward of Peaked
Islet.
At Ningpo the river is fresh at the last part of the ebb.
Directions for the North-east part of the Chusan Archipelago, by Lieutenants
Blilbunlce and Nolloth, R.N.
Vessels bound for Shang-hae, and not intending to call at Chusan or Ning-po,
should pass to the eastward of the Chusan Archipelago and make the Barren Islands,
which lie in lat. 30° 43' N., Ion. 123° 7' E., from whence the Amherst Rocks, at the
entrance of the Yang-tsze-kiang bear N. 58° W. 47 miles. The Barren Rocks are Barren islands.
three in number, about 50 feet high, lying nearly East and West, and nearly three-
quarters of a mile in extent. To the south-eastward of the eastern rock, distant from
it 2 cables, is a rock awash.
S. 31° W., 20^ miles from the Barren Rocks, is Leuconna, which appears from the Leuconna.
southward as three abrupt and round-topped hummocks.
S. 24°W., 20 miles from Leuconna, is Montevideo, or Wong-shing-shan, in lat. Montevideo,
30° 8' N., Ion. 122° 46' E. It has a bold and precipitous appearance, and nearly s°han.°"° ' ""°
square ; it has also a remarkable white cliff, which shews very distinctly when the
island bears N.W. b. N.
N. 74° E., 5 miles from its summit, are seven rocks, called The Seven Sisters ; and sisters and Bio-
N, 78° E. 9 miles, are two rocks, called The Brothers. There is a safe passage be-
tween these rocks and Monte Video, and also between the rocks themselves ; the depth
varying from 30 to 4 fathoms in the vicinity of these islands.
Westerly from Monte Video is a chain of islands extending to Tae-shan, called Fisherman's
Fisherman's Chain. Vessels passing to the eastward of these islands and bound to
Chusan or Ning-po, should make Monte Video, pass to the northward of Fisherman's
Chain, and between it and the large island of Tchin-sanna.
The Beehive Rock in this channel bears from Monte Video N. 17° W. 14 miles. Beehive.
and Leuconna S. 69° W. 12 miles ; it is about 35 feet high, with a rock awash 3 cables
to the eastward of it. Otherwise the depth of water is from 14 to 17 fathoms
round it.
W. b. N., from the Beehive is the large island of Tchin-sanna, having several Xchin-sanna.
smaller islands on its eastern and northern faces. The channel between it and Lae-
shan is 5 miles wide, and safe.
Tchin-sanna is 8i miles long from East to West, having good anchorages in both
Monsoons. Having passed Tchin-sanna, vessels will proceed according to the direc-
tions given for the Chusan Archipelago, or by those for the passage between Square
Island and Shang-hae.
Northward of Tchin-sanna is Peen-chowa. It has several islands round it, and Peen-chowa.
VOL. II. d
30
SUPPLEMENT.
Cliintseen-
bhan and See-
Cliiljers Rock.
Saddle Island.
Tiing-Iub-hwa
.-ind Seao-luh-
liwa.
being 6 miles from
its N.E.
point, 5
between it and Tchin-sanna ; it is next to Tchin-sanna in size,
East to West, and will also afford shelter in either Monsoon. Off
cables distant, is a rock awash.
The islands of Chin-tseen-shan and See-seu-sa lie to the eastward of Peen-chawa,
bearing from the Barren Islands S. 77° W. 17 miles, and from Leuconna N. 21"^ W.
18 miles.
The two islands of Chin-tseen-shan and See-seu-sa afford very good shelter in both
Monsoons. There is fresh water at the eastern end of Chin-tseen-shan.
In the bay on the eastern side of See-seu-sa is a rock which only shews at low water
spring-tides." It lies nearly in the centre of the bay. When on it, the highest part of
the rock, close to the eastern point of the bay, is in a line with a conical hill over the
western point of Chin-tseen-shan. Should vessels be caught at anchor under these
islands with a south-easterly wind, they might run through between them, taking care
to keep as close as possible to the shore of See-seu-sa, as there is a patch of .3 fathoms
in the centre of the channel, and three rocks awash farther to the northward.
The bay on the south side of the See-seu-sa is smaller than the other ; with deep
water at the entrance of it; the best anchorage in it is a little to the eastward of a
rocky point which juts out in the centre of the bay.
Between Leuconna and Chin-tseen-shan is the Childers Rock, which does not
always shew. When on it, the peak of Chin-tseen-shan bears N. 90° W. ; the Barren
Islands, N. 70° E. ; and Leuconna, S. 15° E. The lead gives no warning of it, the
depths being 24 fathoms close to it.
Eight miles to the north-westward of Chin-tseen-shan is Saddle Island, and midway
between them is False Saddle, forming the northern boundary of the Chusan Archi-
pelago. The two largest of the northern group are saddle-shaped, about 800 feet high,
and of similar appearance when seen from the eastward. The northernmost island is
in lat. .30° 50' N., and Ion. 122° 41' E.
To the south-westward of North Saddle, are the long and narrow islands of Tung-
luh-hwa and Seao-luh-hwa, which are scarcely detached. These islands aflbrd an-
chorage, but not so good shelter as under Tchin-sanna, where vessels ought to stop,
should night or thick weather render doubtful the making of the Amherst Rocks,
which are distant from the northernmost Saddle Island N. 42° W. 24 miles. Having
made and anchored close to the Amherst Rocks, follow the directions given for enter-
ing the Yang-tsze-kiang. The tides throughout the group are regular, the flood
setting jN.W., the ebb S.E.
From Chusan toivards Chapoo.
A rock awash at low water spring-tides has been seen about S.S.E., 2 cables from
Just in the Way (see Supplement, p. 9), consequently, vessels passing to the south-
ward of that island should be cautious not to approach too close.
Blonde Rock. The Bloudc Rock, which shews itself at low water, is three-quarters of a mile to
the northward of the Deadman.
MiddleGroiind,
Setiveeu Cliin-hae and Chapoo, and beticeen Chin-hae and Shang-hae.
N.b. W. .3^ miles from Square Island, is a middle ground, having 2 to 3 fathoms
on it. Vessels therefore should approach the Kintang shore, which is steep to ; if
SUPPLEMENT, 31
beating through this passage, they ought not to bring Square Island to the eastward of
South.
There is a passage inside and to the westward of this middle ground, which vessels
drawing not more than 15 feet may use; but it is recommended not to do so, as the
mud dries oft" the Chin-hae shore three-quarters of a mile, and the water shoals sud-
denly. When standing along this shore, a group of small islands lie three-quarters of
a mile off" shore, and distant from Chin-hae citadel 7| miles, under which junks fre-
quently anchor for shelter. Four miles farther to the N.VV. is a high bluft"-head, form-
ing the southern extreme of Hang-chow-foo Bay. This bluflT (called Friendly Bluff")
will form a remarkable object throughout the navigation of tliis part of the Archi-
pelago.
JN. f W., 15 miles from Square Island, is North Island, being the easternmost and Xonh Wand.
largest island of the first group in tliis direction. It is cultivated, and about 21b' feet
high, and three-quarters of a mile in extent from East to West. Close to it the water
deepens suddenly to 20 and 32 fathoms. The holding-ground is good, but it is too
small to afford shelter in strong breezes. North from it is a small rock, which always
shews, and the nearest island of the same group bears from it W. ^ N. 4 miles, with a
safe passage between them. The islets west of this are called the Seven Sisters (Tsih-
tsz-mei), the navigation in their vicinity is dangerous, there being many reefs round
and between them.
Leaving North Island to the westward, the easternmost and highest of the Se-shan Se.u.an Group.
group will be seen, bearing north 18 miles from North Island. A vessel beating up
between these islands should not bring the high Se-shan to the eastward of North until
within 3 miles of it, for there was found a 3^ fathoms patch, witii the island bearing
N. b. E. The Se-shan Islands form three distinct groups, the easternmost having one
large and five smaller islands, with rocks. There is a safe passage between them and
the main, which is very low, and continues so to Chapoo. The middle group lies 6
miles W.N.W. of the eastern, and consists of one large and several small islets, the
southernmost of which is low and rugged, with reefs round it. There is a safe passage
between this group and the main. The western group consists of two islands 11^
miles to the north-westward of the middle group ; the larger is about 700 feet high,
and has no passage between it and the main.
Having made the Eastern Se-shan, pass to the northward or southward of it, as
convenient — if to the southward, within 3 miles. Steering westerly from this, pass
within 2 miles of the middle group, from which, in clear weather, the high land of
Chapoo, bearing west 23 miles, may be seen ; also the Fog Islands, a group of low Fog lUands.
rocky islets bearing S. 75° W. 14 miles. Vessels are recommended to keep well to the
northward of the Fog Islands in approaching Chapoo, as by this they will insure a
depth of 5 and fathoms, and also if a heavy breeze from the northward come on,
can get shelter under the nortiiern shores.
Chapoo city is situated on the western face of the hills forming the eastern point of ciiapoo ciu.
Chapoo Bay ; from this the land is low, rising again into hills at the distance of 8
miles. The mud runs off" a long way from the low land between these hills, whose
tops are crowned with buildings. One of the islands also has a large white joss-house
on it.
Pass close to the point of the southern island, within half a mile or less, then steer
for the town or the termination of the group of hills, and anchor in 7 fathoms. You
will then be about half a mile from the hiiih land to the north-east of the town. The
d 2
32 SUPPLEMENT.
anchorage is sheltered from E.N.E. to S.S.W. round by the North. At springs, the
velocity of the tide is 5 knots, and the rise and fall 25 feet.
About 4 miles south of the southern island, ofl'Chapoo, is a shoal on which the
Plover tacked in 3 fathoms, and there is probably less water : should vessels find
themselves setting to the southward of this, they must anchor.
Tides. Seven miles S.W. from Chapoo, during a stay of three days, the night tide rose 30
feet, and its velocity was 7^ knots ; while at the Fog Islands, 10 miles to the south-
eastward, the rise and fall was 17 feet, and the velocity 4^ knots; shewing a rapid
increase in rise and velocity as you enter the estuary of the Tsien-tang River, leading
to Hang-chow-foo. Captain Collinson, when endeavouring to find a channel to Hang-
chow-foo, in tlie Phlegethon, experienced a tide of 11^ knots when distant 19 miles
from the high land of Chapoo and 2 from the shore. On the second trial, at the dead
neaps, the tide was running 5^ knots nearly in the same place. In traversing the river
from side to side, which at this point is about 15 miles wide, there was no continuous
channel found, although there were some deep spots. When the Phlegethon was ex-
posed to this tide she had an anchor down, with a whole cable (having previously lost
an anchor and cable in endeavouring to hug up), was under her full power of steam
with sails set, and was still driving.
After this account of the tides it will hardly be necessary to urge the necessity of
paying particular attention to the set of the ship when navigating through the bay of
Hang-chow. This bay cannot and ought not to be navigated at night ; the rapidity of
the flood setting into the bay caused the loss of the Kite transport in 1840.
Square Island to Shang-hae.
N. 76° E., 9 miles from North Island, and N. 45° W., .">l miles from Broken Island,
is a small group of islands, between which and North Island there is a good channel,
and the group itself may be approached as convenient.
N. 50° E. from North Island, distant 9^ miles, is the north-westernmost island of a
group called the Volcanoes ; it has a reef north of it, and on the highest island of the
group there is a most remarkable peak. The channel between this and North Island
is safe, if it is kept in mind that you are not to bring East Se-shan -to the eastward of
North. There are several islands between this group and Tae-shan, but they have not
been examined.
Rugged Continuing on to the north-eastward, the high land of the Rugged Islands will
Islands. gQQjj |jg gggjj 'pj^g south-western horn of this group bears from North Island N. 33°
E. 24 miles, and from East Se-shan N.86° E. 13 miles. There is excellent shelter
between the S.W. and N.W. horns of this group, during the South-east Monsoon ; the
whole fleet anchored there in the month of June before proceeding up the Yang-tsze-
kiang.
During the North-east Monsoon vessels will find good shelter to the S.W. of the
whole group, between it and Tae-shan, but the ground has not been thoroughly exa-
mined. The whole space between the Rugged, East Se-shan, Volcano, and North
Islands, is safe, having a depth of from 6 to 7 fathoms.
Hen and N.33° E., 3f miles from the northern horn of the Rugged Islands, is a small islet, with
h.ckens. several rocks to the N.W. of it, called the Hen and Chickens ; and from the same
horn Gutzlaff Island bears N. 43° E. 12 miles. Leaving the Rugged Islands, a vessel
may pass on either side of the Hen and Gutzlaff" Islands ; there is also a safe passage
SUPPLEMENT. 3S
with 6 or 7 fathoms. Vessels may pass on either side of GutzlafF Island, but if to the
westward of it, it must be very close. It is recommended to pass to the eastward of
it, and then steer N. 25° E. for the Amherst Rocks, which are distant from Gutzlaff
Island 24 miles, taking care to keep Gutzlaff" Island on that bearing; for if the wind
is light and it is flood tide, a vessel will be set into the bay of Hang-chow-foo.
Vessels of light draft may navigate the Yang-tsze-kiang with ease and safety, but it Cautions on
will be necessary for vessels above 18 feet to make the Amherst Rocks (wliich are 20 ^tranfe'ofthe
feet above the sea, and in lat. 31° 9' N., Ion. 122° 24' E.), and to have beacons placed Yang.tsze-
for them to sail by. Leaving the Amherst and a quarter ebb, a vessel will carry the "'"°'
flood to Woo-sung if there is any wind.
The following courses will insure deep water : from the Amherst Rocks S. 72° W.
14|^ miles, but care must be taken that the vessel really makes good this course, and
that the flood tide does not sweep her to the northward of that bearing, which is given
to clear the Ariadne rocks. The sea breaks on the Ariadne rocks in strong winds and
the lowest tides. The bearings from these rocks are, Amherst N. 77° E. 7^ miles;
Shau-e-shan North ; Gutzlaff" S. 9° W.
After passing the Ariadne, should the north-east break or ripple be seen, it will be
the best leading mark, for the deepest water is close to tlie bank. The course along it
will be about N.W. ^ W. ; it bears from Shau-e-shan S. 30° W,, and is distant from
the Amherst Rocks 16 miles. If it is not seen, having run the first course and dis-
tance, a course N. 61° W. will take a vessel in mid-channel to Woo-sung ; but as the
strength and set of the tides will materially affect the ship's course, vessels are recom-
mended to use the ground log both for course and distance. Having run 24 miles on
the second course, approach the low western land to one mile ; at this time a clump
of trees, making like three, will be seen ; keep this distance from the bank until a
remarkable high tree is seen (if it is clear). At the same time will be seen Paou-shan
Point, which is the sharp angle of an embankment; when within a mile of the High
Tree Point, increase your distance from the shore, and do not bring Paou-shan Point
to the northward of W. by N. |- N.
The best anchorage off Woo-sung will be Bush Island N.W. b. W. ; and Woo- Anchorage on
sung village Joss-poles, S. 41° W. in 8 fathoms. The leading mark into Woo-sung is ^^'""-^""s-
the Joss-poles at the village, S. 41° W. ; but the best leading mark will be for a vessel
at anchor in the above position to place one of her boats for a beacon. When the low
point below the embaniiraent shews clear of Paou-shan Point, close the western or
Woo-sung shore to half a cable, where there is good anchorage.
Proceeding from Woo-sunq; to Shan2;-hae, keep the western or left bank on board woo-sungto
1 11 1-1 1 • 1 -11 1 -11 I Shan,, hao
until you open the second creek on the opposite shore, which will be a mile above the
village; then cross over, keep the eastern shore close on board, the channel being in
some places scarcely a cable wide. Should the flood run strong, haul over as soon as
you have rounded the low point opposite the village. The narrowest part is opposite
a low point on the western shore above the batteries. The bank here forms a point,
with a remarkable bushy tree on it; it is 7^ miles by the river from Woo-sung village.
Having passed this point, keep in mid-channel. Before arriving at the town, which
is 5^ miles above it, the river takes a sudden turn to the southward, and the western
or right shore again becomes the deep side. The mud extends nearly a cable from the
point at the turning ; between it and the town shore there is a deep hole with 12 and 18
fathoms, but off the town there are 3;^ and 4 fathoms.
Shang-hae.
34 SUPPLEMENT.
MANILA BAY. (Vol. ii. p. 470.)— A buoy has been placed on the St. Nicholas
Shoal. It lias a white flag on it, with the depth of water on the shoal in feet, 64^, in
the centre of the flag.— (iV. Mag. 1843, j). 508.)
CHINA SEA. (Vol. ii. p. 483.)— Mr. Spratly, master of the barque Cyrus, gives
an account of a very extensive reef, level with the water, with black rocks near its
centre, 20 miles S.W. by W. of the West London Reef. Also a low sand island,
covered with bushes, about a mile in extent East and West, in lat. 8° 40' N., Ion. 111°
50' E., or about 12 miles South of the West London Reef. — (jV. Mag. 1843, p. 697.)
EMBOCADERO, or ST. BERNADINO STRAIT. (Vol. ii. p. 521.)— A
dangerous sand-bank is said to exist between the islands of Mesbate and Sibuyan,
bearing W.S.W. from Gate Island, distant 7 or 8 miles, a small part dry, and about
three-quarter of a mile in extent altogether.
Bearing S.b.W. from this bank, about 8 miles, another patch of shoal water was
passed ; the depth on it not ascertained, but appearing dangerous.
The little island of Cresta del Gallo, lying about six miles southward of Sibuyan, and
placed by Arrowsmith's chart in lat. 12" 5' N., Ion. 122° 37' E., does, it is said, exist.
{N.Mag. 1843, jo. 418.)
MACASSAR STRAIT. (Vol. ii. p. 552.)— Mr. Spratly, master of the barque
Cyrus, reports a shoal near Cape Temael, about 2 miles in length, E.N.E. and W.S.W. ,
having deep water within a mile of it. He first saw it in April, 1835, and again in
1840, and mentions that Mr. Hey, master of the Eclipse, landed on it, confirming his
position of it. It bears, he says, S.W. \ S. from the South Watcher, and West from
Cape Temael. These bearings would place it within about 4 miles of the Cape.
{N. Mag. 1843,;^. 131.)
SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS. (Vol. ii. p. 568.)— The Unicorn, C. F. Williams
master, on her passage from Manila to Boston in July, 1842, struck on a coral shoal,
which extends West from the Santa Cruz Islands to the distance of 7 miles. It was
on the extreme of the reef that the vessel grounded, and had while aground 2| fathoms
forward an<l 5j fathoms abaft. Western Santa Cruz Island bore E.b.S. -^ S. 7 miles ;
Fort of Caldera N. i E. ; Fort of Samboangan N.E.b.E. I E.— (iV. Mag.
1843, p. 509.)
APO SHOAL. (Vol. ii. p. 576.)— A rocky patch to the westward of this shoal
has already been mentioned in the Supplement (p. 11). Another rocky patch is stated
to have been seen and examined by Mr. Hunter, about 14 miles W. | N. of the Apo
Islands. It is described as about 300 yards in extent, with depths on it varying from
3 to 9 fothoms, and rocky patches of 9 and 11 feet.— (iV. Mag. 1843, p. 417.)
It is remarkable that these banks were not seen by the Company's ships Discovery
and Investigator in their examination of the Apo Shoal in 1816.
GILLOLO PASSAGE. (Vol. ii. p. 611.)— There is said to be a bank, having 10
and 11 fathoms on it, about 5 or six miles East of Syaug.— ( iV. Ma^. 1843, j^. 417".)
SUPPLEMENT. 35
LOMBOCK STRAIT. (Vol. ii. p. 658.)— The following directions for entering
Laboan Treeang Cove appeared in the Shipping Gazette : —
The western side of the entrance to the cove is bluff and readily distinguished ; the
eastern side is low and sandy, with bamboos and brushwood growing on it.
Approaching the entrance, keep nearest to the eastern shore, as a reef runs off the
other. A good mark is, to bring the low point about S.b.E., and run in with tliat
bearing; haul round the east point until it bears about N.N.W. ^ W. or JN.W.b.N.
and bring up in about 10 fathoms, mud and clay, two, or not more than three cables from
the beach. The water here will be quite smooth, although there may be much swell in
the entrance.
A reef surrounds the island, with a bush or two upon it, which lies E.S.E.* of this
anchorage ; of this be careful, bringing upas advised, putting close to the beach, which
is so steep, that 4 fathoms will be found under a boat's stern while she touches the
ground forward. This is the best anchorage, unless it be preferred to haul into the eastern
side of the cove, which can be done easily and safely.
The fishermen describe the western side of thecove as rocky and not good anchorage,
with the exception of a bight, which is well sheltered ; but it is difficult there to obtain
water, which is not the case on tlie eastern side, there being three good wells near the
huts. Firewood and bamboos may be cut in plenty, and plantains and cocoa-nuts may
be procured ; any other supplies are scarce.
From 50 to 100 sail might be moored in the cove to the eastward, but it is unhealthy
during the North-west Monsoon.
PORT DALRYMPLE, Van Diemen Land. (Vol. ii. p. 716.)— Captain Stokes,
of H.M. surveying vessel Beagle, has placed a beacon on the shore of Lagoon Bay,
which, kept in one with the beacon on the Barrel Rock, forms a good leading mark
through the West Channel into the port. The last house (the Rev. Dr. Browne's) on
the western shore kept in one with the shore beacon will take a ship through the East
Channel, a channel that may be used with safety by vessels making the port in heavy
weather when the pilots are unable to get out.
SHOALS NEAR NEW GUINEA. (Vol. ii. p. 75L)— Mr. F. I. King, of the
Waterwitch whaler, reports the following banks and dangers discovered by him in his
passage westward through St. George's Channel.
Elizabeth Reef, in lat. 3° 58' S., and Ion. 1° 26' W. of Cape St. George, the south
point of New Ireland. Mr. King landed on this reef, and found it to extend 1| mile
East and West.
Another reef, shaped like a horse-shoe, in lat. 4° 13i' S., Ion. 1° 32' W. of Cape St.
George, which breaks very heavily in bad weather j also two others, in lat. 3° 55' S.,
Ion. 1° 4G' W. of Cape St. George.
Horton's Banks. Two sand-banks, about 3 feet above the level of the sea, one in
lat. 4° 32 S., Ion. 1° 41' W. of Cape St. George, and the other about 5 miles W. b.
S.i S. from it.
Gipps Island. A round sugar-loaf island, well inhabited and about 3 miles in cir-
cumference, and surrounded by a reef, which on the eastern side extends three miles
from the island, forming a very good harbour for small vessels. There are hot springs
on the island. (Var. 12° 13' E.)
* The island near the entrance of the cove lies W.S.W. of it in the Chart.
36
SUPPLEMENT.
A'^iCTORiA AND Albert Reefs. The former in lat. 4° 17' S., Ion. 4° 46' W. of Cape
St. George, and the latter in lat. 3° 58' S., Ion. 4° 58' W. of Cape St. George. Mr.
Kino- passed between them in the Waterwitch, and speaks of them as bearing N.E.
homahighisland.—iI^.Mag.\MA,p.\1.) ,, ,,. , ,. , ,
Ferrier Bank, off the east coast of Australia. Mr. King asserts that this bank
exists, and that it lies 18 miles S.S.E. \ E. from the east end of Cato Reef. He sounded
in 17 fathoms on it.— (iV. Mag. 1844, p. 14.)
THE AZORES. (Vol. ii. p. 781.)— Captain Vidal, of H.M.S. Styx, who is now
eno-ao-ed in the survey of these islands, and who has recently examined the position of
the* FoRMiGAS, finds that the bearing of these rocks from the Island of St. Mary as
o-iven by Tofino is several degrees in error; the Great Formiga bearing from the Pico
Alto of St. Mary N. 41° E. instead of N. 34° E., and from Castella Point of the same
island N. 29° E. instead of N. 24° E.
DOLLABARATS SHOAL, which has long been considered doubtful, has been
examined by Capt. Vidal, and is now correctly placed. It bears S. 44° E. 3^ miles from
the Formigas, and is, according to Capt, Vidal, a most insidious danger, only shewing
itself when there is a high swell or sea : the least water found on it was U feet at low
water.
SUPPLEMENT. 3?
PORT and COAST of CHITTAGONG — Notice is hereby ^iven, that in order to facih'tate the approach
to the Port of Chittagong and "the neighbouring Coast to the Southward, a floating Light vessel has been
anchored in the following position, where her light is now exhibited, as well as occasional signals during the
night.
Latitude 21° 27' North, Longitude by Capt. Lloyd's Chart of the Sandheads and by observation 9P 45'
East, the centre of the White Cliffs E. by S. I S. distant about 17 miles. The distance from the nearest shore
about 14 miles, and from the outer or Western Patch about 2 miles.
The Port Master states—
" It will be seen from the above description that the Light can be made use of for either Channel, viz., to the
" Westward of or between the Patches. The rollers on the Patches are very heavy, so much so, indeed, that
" at the distance of less than a quarter of a mile, one boat was constantly hidden from the other by their rise.
" The Light vessel is anchored in twelve fathoms."
East-India House, James C. Melvill,
London, April 16, 1845. Secretary.
ARRACAN RIVER. — Notice is hereby given, that a light is now exhibited on
the new light-house erected on the Great Savage Rock, at the entrance of the
Arracan River, in lat. 20° 5' N., Ion. 92° 55' 38" E. The light is elevated 106
feet above the level of the sea, and ma}' be seen from the deck of a ship, in clear
weather, at a distance of 15 miles. The following directions for entering the Port of
Akyab at night, by the aid of this light, and one intended to be placed on a light-
house now erecting on Mosque Point, within the river, are published for geperal
information.
AKYAB PORT. — Sailing Directions — Ships sailing for Akyab during the South-West monsoon
should steer for the South end of the Western Bolongo, in lat. 19" 50' N., Ion. 93° 3' E., then standing along
the coast to the Northward and Westward about 5 or 6 miles off shore, until the light is sighted on the Great
Savage, at the entrance of the Arracan River, then steer so as to bring it to bear N. by E. or N.N.E., and if
- they intend to run in during the night, with either of these bearings they will cross the bar in the best water,
in 3 fathoms low water spring tides.
After deepening across it, the course should be altered to N. by W. or even N.N.W., according to the state
of the tide and sea at the time, to avoid the Western rocks (above water) bearing from the light S.W. 1 S.>
distant nearly half a mile ; the flood tide sets in on these rocks.
When the light bears East in 6 to 9 fathoms on the edge of the Flat to the Westward, the course must be
altered to N.N.E. and N.E by N., having brought the light to bear S.E. by S. J S. the ship will be inside of
Passage Rock, which is 5 to 7 feet above water, and bears from the Savage Light N.W. J N., distant a quarter
of a mile, and should then steer N.E. Easterly, to avoid the Reef projecting from Mosque Point a mile in
extent to the South ; some of the rocks are above water at half ebb. There is a red buoy placed on the
Southern entrance, in about 9 fathoms, which, with attention, may be seen in a clear night without the moon,
and after bringing Mosque Point to bear N.W. by N. to N.W., the ship should anchor.
On Mosque Point a small light-house is nearly finished, the light of which will be a deep red, and will be
seen about 6 miles, or 3 miles beyond the bar, as a leading mark to clear the Western rocks, keeping it a little
open to the Westward of the Savage Light when steering in or out, also to point out when the ship is inside of
the reef off Mosque Point. With this light bearing N.W. by N. to N.W. is good anchorage, having excellent
holding ground, and perfectly sheltered from the sea.
A stranger should not attempt to run in at night, particularly in the rains, except at high or low water, as
the ebb tide runs very rapidly in strong eddies off the Passage Rock, over the Dangerous Flat to the Westward,
and the flood in strong eddies upon the Rocks.
During the N.E. monsoon, ships bound to Akyab, from the northward, should endeavour to make the
Table Land of the Western Bolongo in lat. 20° 1' N., then steering due East they will avoid the Oyster Reef,
in lat. 20° 5' N., Ion. 92° 40' East, which is distant from the Savage Light 15 miles due West. This course is
recommended, as although in favourable weather the Savage Light is seen outside the reef in 16 to 17 fathoms
water, the depth suddenly decreases, and the probability of hazy or rainy weather would prevent the light
being seen, and steering boldly in to sight it, to the Northward of lat. 20° 1', would endanger the safety of the
vessel, by suddenly falling upon the Oyster Rock or Reef before sighting the light-house.
Strangers are advised not to make use of the Channel inside of the Oyster Rock or Reef, on any occasion.
East-India House, James C. Melvill,
London, 9th October, 1844. Secretary.
MALACCA STRAIT.— The existence of the shoal marked doubtful in the charts,
midway between the Water Island and the Sumatra shore, is conhrmed by several
recent reports. The Antelope (drawing 14 feet water) is said to have touched on it, and
then to have had several casts of 2^ fatlioms on it, hard bottom. The Eldon also
touched on it, and Captain Worsell having lowered his boat, sounded across the shoal,
VOL. II. 1
38 SUPPLEMENT.
and found the depths decrease from the edge towards the middle of the bank from 17
to 9 feet.
SINGAPORE STRAIT.— The rock on which the Stork was wrecked lies to the
south-eastward of the Romania Islands. It is described as about 100 yards in length,
and covered at high water to the depth of 10 feet. This vessel grounded on the S.W.
part of the rock, and the following bearings were taken from its N.E. end. Barbucit
Point S. 76° W. Barbucit Hill N. 70° W. Peak Rock or Outer island N. 57^ W.,
about three-quarters of a mile. Pedra Branca S. 74° E.
PULO LOZIN. (Vol. ii. p. 321 .)— In a letter to the editor of the Singapore Free
Press, Captain Clark, of the ship William Gillies, mentions having seen tiiese rocks
on his passage from Siam to Singapore in October, 1844. He places the East Rock
in lat. 7° 17^' N. and 1° 25^' E. of the entrance of Siam River. This rock he says is
considerably less than Pedra Branca, in Singapore Strait, and may be seen from the
deck in clear weather 6 or 7 miles. He saw the Western Rock, but had not an op-
portunity of examining it ; he supposed it to bear from the former about W. by S. 12
or 14 miles.
PULO SAPATA. (Vol. ii. p. 333.)— There is said to be a shoal lying W.N.W.
13 miles from this island.
CORAL REEFS in the CHINA SEA.— A reef was seen by Mr. Johnson,
commanding the ship Tory, in lat. 7° 52' N., Ion. 111° 26' E. He describes it as
lying in a S.E. and N.W. direction, and to be about If miles in extent. This appears
to be one of the shoals, S.W. of the Owen Shoal, which have been reported by other
vessels, and is probably part of the Orleana Reef (see Vol. ii. p. 484), which is stated
to be 20 miles in extent.
A rocky shoal, about 2 miles long North and South, is reported by Captain Pearson,
of the Bahamian, in lat. 8° 56' N., Ion. 113° 44' E. ; it has rocks above water on its
southern edge.
Another shoal is reported in lat. 1° 33' S., Ion. 107° 27' E., and described as a
dangerous shoal, running North and South half a mile, apparently level with the water's
edge, and having a rock (or dead tree, many of which were floating about) on its
norther nend.
NIMROD SOUND.— Its general direction is E.N.E. and W.S.W. When abreast
and to the southward of Bateman 2 miles, the course up the sound will be W.S.W.
southerly, and the depths 5, 4|, 4 fathoms up to the Castle Rock, which is 6 miles from
the Bateman, and has 3 fathoms close to it, but should not be approached within one
mile, for a large shoal or spit from the shore, distant 1\ miles, extends to Barren
Island (which is low) and in most parts dry at low water. The soundings mid-
channel from Castle Rock to abreast of Barren Island will be 5, Q^, 7 fathoms.
Between Barren Island on the north shore and Nimrod Point on the south shore, the
Sound is about 3 miles wide. Nimrod Point (or Bluff) is high, and has several sunken
rocks lying about 3 cables off it. E.N.E. from Nimrod Bluff is the Cone Rock.
About 4 miles from Nimrod Point higher up the sound lies a small island, which
from its central position is called Middle Island, due South of which is the entrance
of Medusa Sound. W.S.W. from Middle Island is Parker Island, between which
and the opposite shore are 20, 17, and 16 fathoms. Off the east end of that island
are dangerous rocks which shew at half tide but are steep to. The channel here is
scarcely a mile wide, but has deep water and the tide is strong. S.W. from Parker
Island is a small river for boats, having about one fathom at low water; this leads to
a small village 3 or 4 miles distant. West of Parker Island and close in towards the
SUPPLEMENT. 39
main are several small islands ; the first is called Entrance Island, and has abreast of
it on the opposite shore extensive mud flats which dry at low water and which should
not be approached imder 5 fathoms.
From Entrance Island and in a S.W. direction in mid-channel lie the Treble
Islands : these in passing up must be left on the larboard hand, keeping in raid-
channel to avoid a sunken rock near the island opposite, and which only shews at half
tide. Having passed this island, good anchorage may be found oft' the village of
Tung-ju in 6^, 7, or 8 fathoms, mud, with a small island called Middle Island, bear-
ing South and 1^ miles off" shore. There was no trade of any consequence appa-
rent in the Sound. It abounds with wild fowl in the winter season.
The southern part of Nimrod Sound is called ]Ning-hea Bay (?) and is distant 7 miles
from the head of the northern part of Shei-poo Gulf. A path running in a south-
easterly direction at the foot of a range of lofty hills leads from the former to the latter,
but no canal or stream was observed to connect either. — Capt. The Hon. G.
Hastings, H.M.S. Harlequin.
MADJICOSEMAH or IMEIACOSHEMA ISLANDS.— Vessels should not
venture near these islands after dark until the dangers have been more closely
examined. From the western limit of Hummock Island to the eastern range of
the Ty-pin-san breakers is dangerous: independent of the many reefs which connect
the islands, the constant strong winds, with haze and rain, during the IS.E. monsoon
render the approach at that season very hazardous unless in a very clear day.
The islands first visited, viz., Pa-tching-san, and Koo-kien-san, afford several
good harbours, and with good charts would be safe to approach. One on the Ke-chee
side of Pa-tching-san would shelter a large fleet, but it abounds with patches, which
rise suddenly from 10 to 15 fathoms over them, and which are clearly discernible.
Except on the northern side of Koo-kien-san, and that just named, watering would be
found very difficult, as the reefs extend a great distance from the mouths of the streams.
The Pa-tching-san group numbers ten islands, five only of which possess moun-
tains ; the remainder are low islands like the coral islands of the Pacific, and simi-
larly belted with reefs which connect these ten into a distinct group. Besides these,
Hummock Island (a high uninhabited mass of rocks) is near the coast, and to the
W.N.W. the island of Pseu-bang-yal with its lofty peak and table base. This is pro-
bably the Koumi of the charts.
To the eastward we passed between two low islands which are dangerous of
approach ; we suddenly found ourselves in 7 fathoms, with a heavy swell to the north-
ward of them, but tacked and ran between them as our friend the pilot had advised.
I suspect these to be Salumah and Talamah, named by the natives Ty-pin-san, as
visible from the summit of Koo-ree-mah.
The islands of the Ty-pin-san group are, Ty-pin-san, Koo-ree-mah, Y-deah-boo,
Y-ki-mah, and Fo-ga-mee.
The S.W. angle of Ty-pin-san is situated in lat. 24° 43' 50" N., Ion. 125° 14' 54" E.,
var, 1° 23' VV. The anchorage of Ty-pin-san is in the hollow of the reef formed by
the junction of Ty-pin-san and Koo-ree-mah reefs. Two dangerous reefs lie half a
mile off" the southern end of the latter island. The anchorage is rocky with sandy
patches between, and is not secure in any season. Ty-pin-san should not be ap-
proached at all on its northern side, the reefs extending beyond the reach of distinct
vision. On the southern side the reef extends about a mile from the land, and vessels
might lie to under its lee with a northerly wind until the morning; the drain is
southerly. As yet we have not been able to find safe anchorage in the vicinity of Ty-
pin-san or its islets. — Capt. Sir E. Belcher, H.M.S. Saniarang.
BASHEE and BABUYAN ISLANDS.— The group formed by the islands Batan,
40 SUPPLEMENT.
Sabtang, Ibayat, Ibugos, Calayan, and Oyabuyan, is termed the Batanas ; the
islands are all' subject to the Alcalde, who resides at San Miguel.
Batan Island. San Domingo is in lat. 20° 27' 26" N., Ion. 121° 57' E., var. 0° 23'
W. San Vincente (erroneously termed Ivana in the charts) is merely the landing place
for the Pueblo of Ivana, which is situated in the S.W. angle of the island, and about
one mile from San Vincente, where only a few huts remain.
The islands of Batan and Sabtang are mountainous with many broad cultivated
spots. The former is particularly rich in its soil, and produces yams, sweet potatoes,
maize, onions, rice, &c. Cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, and poultry are abundant and
reasonable. Wood is plentiful as well as water, but the latter is difficult to procure,
as the rivers are barred by reefs which prevent boats from approaching or rafting it off
in sufficient quantity for ships of war.
SHOAL NEAR KOUMI ISLAND.— In the Skipping Gazette of 12th March,
1844, a dangerous shoal is described as having been seen by Capt, Wittingham, of
the ship Helen Stewart, extending E. by S. and W. by N., and bearing from Koumi
Island S.W. by W. 3| leagues. In the Nautical Maaazitie for 1844, p. 244, we have a
similar description of the same shoal, subsequently confirmed by a letter direct to
the editor, at p. 86 of the vol. for 1845. The bearings in this last account differ
indeed from the two former, the direction of the shoal being stated as E. by N. and
W. by S., and its position N.W. by W., instead of S.W. by W., from Koumi Island ;
and as this last account is from Capt. Wittingham himself, we must believe it to be
the correct one.
BARRERAS BAY, MASBATE ISLAND.— According to Capt. Keene, of the
ship Emperor, this is a most treacherous bay, and no vessel ought, in his opinion, to
enter it, although it stands so invitingly open in making for the Bernadino Passage.
On getting soundings, he had first 20 fathoms, then 4, and in rounding to the ship
grounded. — Naut. Mag. 1845, jo. 7.
The following remarks on the West Coast of Borneo are by Captain the Hon.
George Hastings, of H.M.S. Harlequin.
BORNEO. — Barren Island appears correctly placed, but I make St. Pierre Island
about 10 miles farther West, and Cape Datoo to be in Ion. 109° 43' E., lat. 2° 7' N.
Cape Datoo is high, but towards Cape Apee is very low. Apee is in about 109° 21' E.,
lat. 1° 58' N.
From Apee to Datoo the course is E.N.E. northerly 20 miles. From Datoo to
Cape Santabong about E.S.E. 44 miles. The latter cape is a very remarkable head-
land ; it is high and uneven, and has on it a narrow perpendicular projection called
Santabong Horn, which may be seen at a great distance. The land to the southward
is mountainous aud is frequently hid by the dense mist which hangs over it.
There are two small islands about S. by E. from Datoo, and two others to the west-
ward of Santabong. From Santabong you haul gradually round to the S.E. for
Cape Sepang, which is distant about 9 miles from it. The land then runs in a S.W.
direction, and all the land to the eastward is low and covered with jungle to the
water's edge, by which you may know when to haul in for the Sarawak River. The
land from Sepang to the entrance of the river forms a deep bay, which is very shoal,
being dry at low water. The passage lies between this shoal and another to the east-
ward, about f of a mile wide. We had Santabong Horn on with the extreme land of
Sepang, and the highest trees on the low land, forming the left-hand side of the river,
going up, bearing S.S.W. in 5 fathoms, which appears to be the entrance of the
channel ; but attention to the lead is extremely necessary. This channel is about 2
miles offshore, and lies in a S.W. by S. and N. E. by N. direction. On opening the
entrance of the river, keep the starboard side on board and an anchorage of 7 or 8
SUPPLEMENT. 41
fathoms will be readily found, from which, if bound to Ku-chin, a village about 4 miles
up this river, a pilot may be procured. The rise and fall of the tide is 18 feet, and the
H.W. at full and change at about 3h. 30m. p.m.
From a fair way off Cape Sepang a N.E. ^ N. course will lead towards Cape Sirik,
distant from Sepang about 80 miles, but as the tide sets about this part in an inshore
direction, a good look-out for the land, which is very low, is requisite; the lead,
however, will guide you by not standing into less than 9 or 10 fathoms.
Cape Sirik is low, with trees to the water's edge, also the land to the eastward until
you get into 113° E., when you will see two mountains, called Bateman and Tatow.
From C. Sirik to C. Barrain the course is N.E. by E. 180 miles. The coast is
generally low, with jungle, and may be approached to 10 or 12 fathoms, the soundings
being regular. Cape Barrain is in aliout 4° 38' N., Ion. 114° 1' E. Do not
approach the cape within .9 or 10 fathoms, as it appears very shoal within these
soundings, and in passing in the night a wider course should be taken, for it would
be difficult to see the land.
In a fair course from C. Sirik to C. Barrain the soundings will be about 10, 12, 13,
and 14 fathoms until nearly abreast of C. Barrain ; the course from this cape is about
E.N.E. 68 miles. The land after passing C. Barrain is at first low, but about
30 miles to the E.N.E., the land appears moderately high, when a mount, called the
Plantain, will be seen, which is the highest in the vicinity of Borneo Proper.
JAVA SEA. — Mr. Gait, master of the brig Islay, reports a dangerous coral reef
with 13 feet water on it, in lat. 7° 16' S., ion. 114° 44' E., the S.E. end of Raas Island
bearing N.W. by N. about 5 miles.
SHOALS NEAR PANAY. — Until the passage West of Panay is examined, it would
be a vain attempt to give definite positions to the dangers from time to time reported,
and all that can be done for the present is to record the several reports, by way of
caution to navigators. The following dangers, not laid down in the charts, are said to
exist in the neighbourhood.
The shoal (Bajo de Panagatan) on which the Marquis of Camden was lost is placed
in lat. 11° 50' N., Ion. 121° 22' E., and there is said to be an island, not hitherto laid
down, in lat. 11° 38' N., Ion. 121° 45' E.—Naut. Mag. 1845.
Captain Keene, of the ship Emperor, mentions a mass of coral reefs on the S.W.
side of Caravaos (Buffaloes), which, in his opinion, stretch nearly to the Quiniluban
Isles. — Naut. Mag. 1845.
The Dri/ Sand is described by Captain Isaacson, of the ship Inglis, as a low island,
covered with trees and very picturesque. — Naut. Mag. 1845.
Sailing directions for the coast of China, from the Cape of Good Hope to Chapel
Island, hy Captain Collinson, C.B., R.N.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.— The Cape of Good Hope is in lat. 23° 14' N., and
Ion. 116° 47' E., forming the western extremity of the Bay of Naraoa ; it is about 700
feet above the level of tiie sea, the highest part having the appearance of a dome.
The eastern face of it is steep to, and in the Bay to the north of it is a green islet
with a patch of rocks between it and the Cape. From it, the west point of Namoa
bears N.E. by N. 14| miles, and the S.W. part of the Lamock Islands S. 85° E.
24^ miles.
CONE ISLET.— To the northward of the Cape 2^ miles is Cone Islet, which is
distant from the mainland 5 cables ; and S. by E., 4 cables from Cone Islet, is a
square rock, having a reef, which shews at low water, two cables to the westward of
it. Rocks extend from the points on the main opposite to these two islets, and in the
channel there are 3 fathoms at low water.
42 SUPPLEMENT.
SUGAR LOAF. — From Cone Islet the coast trends N.W. by N. 3 miles to Sugar
Loaf Island, from the N.E. point of which there is a reef extending one cable.
RIVER HAN. — From the Sugar Loaf the coast trends to the westward, being the
entrance to the River Han, which has 2 J fathoms over the bar at low water.
Intending to enter it, steer so as to pass two cables to the eastward of Double Island
(which bears N.W. by N. f of a mile from Sugar Loaf) ; having passed it, the course
is West for the town of San-taw-shan, which is upon the north bank of the river, and
four miles from Double Island ; half a mile to the S.E. of the town there is a depth of
8 fathoms, and at low water the water is fresh.
The channel between Double Island and the main to the northward is five cables
wide, the mud extending six cables from that shore, which is low.
ST. JOACHIM BANK.— St. Joachim Bank is an extension of this flat south-
easterly. The southern edge in two fathoms bears East from Double Island two
miles, and it turns to the northward when the pagoda bears N. 17° E. A good guide
to keep clear of it in a vessel of 14 feet draft is to keep Brig Island open of the
east end of Fort Island.
PAGODA.— The Pagoda bears N. 8° E. IQi miles from the Cape of Good Hope.
The land in its neighbourhood is so low that when first made it appears like an island.
Fort Island lies N.E. by E. 2 miles from the Pagoda. The Fort is on the Table
Land at its western extreme.
KNOLLS AT THE WESTERN ENTRANCE TO NAMOA. — S. 68° E. from the Pa-
goda 4^ miles, and with the west point of Namoa in line with Breaker Island bearing
N. 36° E. there was formerly a shoal with only 11 feet at low water; at present
(August, 1844) there are several knolls, none of which however have less than 13 feet ;
the following are their bearings : —
The west point of Namoa in line with Breaker Island is the mark for three.
The western upon that line bears from the Pagoda S. 56° E., and has a depth of
13 feet at low water.
Another bears S. 66° E. from the Pagoda with 17 feet.
A third bears East from the Pagoda with 18 feet; and with the Pagoda bearing
N. 79° W. and the west point of Namoa N. 21° E. ihereis a patch with 18 feet. Also
with the Pagoda bearing West and the west point of Namoa N. 23° W. is a knoll
which has only 14 feet ; all these are sand, and will probably be found to shift in con-
sequence of the freshes from the mouths of the River Han.
BRIG ISLAND (so called from a rock at its southern extremity, which appears
like a brig when seen in an East or West direction) lies N.E. by E. ^ E. four miles
from Fort Island, the depth of water varying from 5 to 2^ fathoms between the two,
the most water being towards the former.
BAYLIS BAY. — Baylis Bay is the first bay on the north side of Namoa, to the
eastward of the west point, and has a Chinese fort on the ridge to the westward of it,
and an outwork on the beach.
There are three knolls off the bay bearing from the upper fort as follows : —
1st. N. 78° W., rather less than 1 cable from the fort point, having only 5 feet
over it.
2nd. N. 4.3° W., 1 cable from the point, has 9 feet upon it at low water.
3rd. N. 36° W., 2^ cables from the same point ; when upon this, Brig Island
summit bears N. 40° W., and Fort Island summit S. 75° W. ; it has 11 feet at
low water.
During the northern monsoon, the opium vessels anchor off this bay, remaining
SUPPLEMENT. 43
here from October to May. In the other monsoon, they lie 1^ miles farther to the
eastward, as the swell setting round the point renders this anchorage inconvenient.
From Baylis Bay a bank commences, which extends 2^ miles along the N.W. coast
of Namoa ; the greatest distance from the shore is 4 cables, which is opposite to
Stewart's House, off which is the Summer anchorage. The lead gives no warning,
and there is only 9 feet on the edge of the bank.
The tide at springs runs at the rate of 4 knots, the ebb coming from the eastward.
It is high water at full and change days at 11 o'clock ; rise, 7 feet.
These two anchorages must be considered more as safe roadsteads than harbours,
as, from the velocity of the tide and the fetch of the sea, laden boats would frequently
have much difBculty in passing to and fro. Water may be procured with facility, and
there was no difficulty in obtaining fresh provisions.
FOLKSTONE ROCK.— The Folkstone Rock has only 5 feet upon it at low
water. The bearings from it are : the Brig Rock, in line with the N.VV. head of Fort
Island, S. 62° W. ; Coffin Island, the largest of a cluster of islets 3 miles north of Brig
Island, N. 44° W. ; and the flagstaff of Stewart's House, in line with a whitewashed
rock at the back of it bearing S. 11° £.
SHOALS. — The leading mark, Brig Rock in line with Fort Island, will keep a
vessel clear of the shoal, which extends all the way from Brig Island to Breaker
Island, The latter bears from the former N. 63° E. 4f miles, and is a peaked rock
with several others about it, which must not be approached nearer than 2 cables
upon their western side.
To the eastward of Breaker Isle the shoal water extends a great distance from the
northern shore, the southern edge of the Shoal in three fathoms bears East 3 miles
from it.
Opposite to Breaker Island the coast line of Namoa trends to the S.E., forming a
deep indentation, which is shoal, with two islets and several rocks in it. The land
at the bottom of the bay is low, and it is only one mile across to the southern side of
the island.
PAGODA BAY. — Pagoda Bay, on the north side of Namoa, is seven miles to the
eastward of Breaker Island ; there is a walled town at the bottom of the bay, which is
the residence of the Governor of the district. Vessels drawing less than 3 fathoms
may bring the Pagoda to bear E. by N., but during the northerly monsoon Challum
Bay will be found a more eligible anchorage, as with a north-easterly breeze there is a
considerable swell into the former, and from Challum Bay you are able to avail your-
self of the land wind which usually draws to the northward in the morning.
CHALLUM BAY. — To enter it, pass within a mile to the westward of Middle
•Islet, which is a barren rock, bearing N. 60° E. o^ miles from Breaker, or do not shut
Back Bay Island in with Entrance Island, which will prevent your standing into less
than 2^ fathoms upon the western shore.
Entrance Island bears N.W,, 2^ miles from Middle Islet. The anchorage is between
the two, in from 3 to 6 fathoms. The bay north of Entrance Island is shoal, and
there is a reef extending 3 cables from the S.W. point of Challum Island; the latter lies
North If miles from Middle Islet. Should you pass to tiie eastward of Middle Islet,
it must be within 5 cables, as there is an 11 feet patch between it and the Fort Head,
bearing from the former N. 48° E. Under Fort Head is a rock, nearly level with the
water's edge at high water, and also one in the bay between it and Point Difficult,
otherwise the coast line here is steep to
POINT DIFFICULT,— Point Difficult has a square fort upon the highest part of
the hills over it, and an islet to the eastward of it.
44 SUPPLEMENT.
TERNATE ROCK. — The Ternate Rock, with one foot upon it, lies N. 78° E. 1^
miles from tlie summit of this islet, on which bearing, it is in line with the third and
last sandy hill on the northern part of the range extending from Fort Head. The
Pa"-oda Island in line with Namoa High Peak will place you to the eastward of it.
The north point of Namoa has a double peak over it, and forms the eastern boundary
of the Pagoda Bay. Rocks extend from its N.E. face 3 cables, the land then trends
immediately to the southward.
SOUTH COAST OF NAMOA.— The southern coast of Namoa runs from the
west point nearly due East five miles, where there is a small bay, with a pagoda upon
its eastern point. This portion of the island corresponds with the bay opposite to the
Breaker on the northern shore.
South Bay lies 4 miles to the eastward of the Pagoda Bay, and will afford good
shelter in the north-east monsoon. Rocks extend If cables southerly from the eastern
point of the Bay. Vessels of 18 feet draft may run into this Bay until the end of the
point bears S.E. 5^ cables to the south-eastward of the point is a low flat islet, called
Crab Islet by the Chinese. The channel between it and Namoa has foul ground.
One mile and a quarter to the eastward of South Bay Point is a bold bluft" with three
tall chimneys on it, which is the southern extremity of the island.
LAMOCK ISLANDS. — The Lamock Islands are four in number, and two
patches of rocks extending in a N.E. and S.W. direction 7^ miles. The south-western
part of the group is formed by two square rocks, 15 feet above high water, with several
detached reefs between them. The white rock lies N.E. 1^ miles from them, and
is sufficiently large to afford a shelter to the fishing boats. Between the white rock
and the high Lamock the distance is 3 miles, affording a safe channel, the depth of
water varying from 8 to 14 fathoms. High Lamock is 250 feet above the sea and is
thickly covered with brush-wood. The channel between it and the next island is
1| miles; between the two is a rock with a reef which shews at low water, extending
l^^ cables southerly from it.
The three northern islets lie close together ; the northern one is without vegetation
and has a pyramid upon it.
The course from the southern end of the Lamock to the west point of Namoa is
N.W. ^ W. 22j miles, and from the N.E. end of them the east point of Namoa bears
N.W. 131 miles. From the N.E. Lamock the S.E. Brother bears N. 50° E. 25^ miles,
and Jokakko point N. 21° E. 19^ miles.
Between the Lamock Islands and Namoa are four islets, the northern of which is
the highest, and from its appearance is called Dome Island.
The two southern islets lie nearly East and West of each other ; the south-eastern or
Reef islet has a repf of rocks extending southerly 1 mile from it, from the south end
of which the S.W. islet bears N. 15^° W.
The western islet is lower than the others and flat ; its S.W. extreme open of the
west end of South-west islet is a good mark for avoiding the above reef.
SINTA is a rock with two feet water on it bearing S. 38° E. 4^ miles from Dome
Islet, when on it the S.W. extreme of Reef Islet is in line with the centre of West or
Low Islet (called Flat Islet in the chart) bearing N. 67i' W.
S.W. Islet's summit bears N. 72° W.
East point of Namoa, N. 10l° W.
Southern Rock of the Lamocks, S. 28° E.
North end of ditto. East.
Highest point of ditto, S. 71° E.
YING-KONG-TA is another rock awash at low water, 4^ miles to the north of
SUPPLEMENT. 45
Sinta. When upon it, the northern end of Crab Islet, on the south face of Namoa,
is in a line with the S.W. points of Nanioa, bearing N. 77° W. Dome Island bears
S. 7J° W.; Reef Island, S. 15° W.; High Lamock, S. 37° E. ; East end of Namoa,
N. 29° W. The north point of Namoa seen clear of the eastern point leads you
North of it.
REEF BETWEEN DOME ISLAND AND NAMOA.— There is also a patch
of rocks which shew at half-tide between Dome Island and Namoa, bearing from the
former N. 12° to N. 27° E. one mile. The Chimney Bluft'on Namoa bears N. 33° W.
from them ; they are rather more than a mile from the Namoa shore. Mr. Anderson,
master of the Sir Edward Ryan, also informed me of a reef which he saw when in
command of the Times schooner, to the N.E. of the Lamocks, which he described as
being just awash ; the bearing placed it with all the Lamocks in one, and three miles
from the northern rock ; we, however, could not find it.
CHELSIEU. — Chelsieu is a cluster of four rocks, which are always above water,
bearing East from the north point of Namoa seven miles.
DIOYU. — From Chelsieu Rocks N.35° W, 3^ miles is Dioyu, a reef, which is just
awash at high water. The pagoda, in Pagoda Bay, in line with the Saddle Peak
which overlooks the western side of Pagoda Bay in Namoa, bearing S. 63° W. will lead
50U to the northward of it, should high tides and smooth water prevent its being
seen.
Tides at the Eastern extremity of Namoa. — The flood tide enters at the eastern as
well as at tlie western end of Namoa, but the tides in the neighbourhood of Pagoda
Bay are not so strong as they are at the western extremity of the island.
General Description of Namoa. — Namoa is 12 miles from East to West, and b^ miles
from North to South at its eastern extremity, which is its broadest part. Notwith-
standing its barrenness, it is exceedingly populous, the occupation of fishing affording
a livelihood to the greater portion of the inhabitants. The peaks, of which there are
three, rise to the height of 1,700 and 1,900 feet above the sea, forming the most promi-
nent landmarks in the neighbourhood. Six and a half miles E.N.E. of Point Difficult
is a shallow bay, with a pagoda on an island within it.
CHAUAN BAY. — The west point of Chauan Bay (which is the eastern point of
the bay mentioned above) has a small islet off its south extreme. This bay may be
useful during the South-east Monsoon, but in the North-east Monsoon vessels should
endeavour to reach Owick Bay, which is a smaller bay farther to the eastward, as the
other runs far enough back to the N.E. to allow an awkward sea to arise.
At the entrance is a middle ground, with 2^ and 3 fathoms, the south end of which
bears N. 88° W. from East Chauan Point, the west end S. 11° E. from Bay Pagoda,
and the east end S. 21° E. from the same.
Three cables from the S.W. point of Square Islet (the southernmost island in the
bay) is a reef awash at low water. When upon it, the east point of Chauan Bay bears
S. 60° E., and the west end of Square Island N. 33° E. The shoal water also extends
1 mile from the north-west side of the bay, which will be detected by the discoloured
water.
Anchorage in 6 fathoms will be found with the centre of Square Island bearing S.E.,
and farther up the bay in 3 fathoms, with the south end of High Island in line with
tiie east point of the Bay.
Between High and Square Islands and the east point of Chauan Bay the channels
are too narrow for square-rigged vessels.
OWICK BAY. — Owick or Psyche Bay lies 3 miles to the eastward of East Chauan
VOL. II. 2
46 SUPPLEMENT.
Point. It is protected to the eastward by a narrow isthmus, with two rocks off its
south extreme, the end of which may be brought to bear S.E., where a vessel will have
smooth water in 31 fathoms.
Immediately to the eastward of Owick Bay is a remarkable sand-hill, which will
point out its position.
JOKAKKO PEAK. — Jokakko Peak is the highest part of the land at the back
of Owick Bay, and is conically shaped.
BELL ISLAND lies .3 miles to the eastward of Owick Bay Point, and is per-
forated at its south end, which will be seen in a S.E. or N.W. bearing. There is a
smaller islet between it and Jokakko Point, making the channel 5 cables wide, in the
centre of which there are only 2^ fathoms : from Bell Island the S.E. Brother bears
S.82^° E. 15i miles.
JOKAKKO POINT is an isolated hill, N. by E. li miles from Bell Island; oflT
it are two islets. Cliff Island bearing S.E. by E. one mile, and Square Head N. 70° E.
1^ miles. The channel between them and the point is safe.
CONE PEAK.— N. 36° E. from Jokakko is Cone Peak, with a peaked rock off
its eastern point. The land between the two is a sandy plain, very little above high
water level, the distance across which to the bottom of Chauan Bay is only If miles.
BROTHERS. — The south-eastern Brother is the larger of the two, and has a
reef extending north-westerly from it. The islets are 2^ miles apart, bearing
S.E.^ E. and N.W.^ W. from each other ; the north-western has a remarkable square
top.
TONGSAN (or TUNG-SHAN) HARBOUR.— Tongsan Harbour is one of the
best upon the coast of China, and will be easily recognized by a remarkable peak.
Fall Peak, making something like a saddle, but with a deeper indentation ; and
upon the island, at the entrance, is a pagoda, which bears from the S.E. Brother
N. 35° W. 141 miles.
There is a mud bank outside, having for its least water 4^ fathoms, bearing from
the pagoda S. 40° E., and from Fall Peak S. 35° W. By keeping the Sisters (two
islets in the northern portion of the bay) open of the east end of Middle Islets
(the group immediately north of Pagoda Island), you will be to the eastward of the
bank.
Pagoda Island and the eastern shore of the harbour are steep to, until you open the
low isthmus which connects Old Thunder Head with Fall Peak, when the eastern
shore becomes shoal ; and the larger Sister must not be brought to the westward of
N.byVV.iW.
There are also some rocks extending a cable and a half from the south point of the
Middle Islets, and a mud bank extending northerly H cables from its east point.
The Plover's first anchorage was in 4^ fathoms, with Fall Peak bearing N. 73° E.,
and the larger Sister N. 19° W., under a long sandy point, and opposite a creek.
Afterwards, for the convenience of watering (water being readily obtained even
during the dry season), she was moved under Old Thunder Head, Fall Peak bearing
N. 44° E., and the east head of Middle Island N. 52° W.
Junks anchoring for the tide bring up between the Pagoda and Middle Islands.
In passing to this anchorage care must be taken to avoid some rocks extending
south-easterly 2 cables from the east point of the northern part of Pagoda Island ;
and the best berth will be found in 12 fathoms, when the Sisters are seen through the
western opening of the Middle Islands, You must not close the Middle Islands
nearer than 2 cables, as there is a mud bank extending southerly from them. This
SUPPLEMENT. 47
anchorage is confined, but will be found convenient for a disabled or an unhandy vessel
in case the ebb tide should prevent their reaching the other anchorage ; and in the
former case, she would be nearer to the town of Tung-yung, wliere spars are to be
obtainetl. The town is situated upon a peninsula opposite the Pagoda Island. This
channel is not a good one to enter by, as rocks extend from both shores, narrowing
the channel to 3 cables.
It is high water at llh. 30m. ; rise and fall 12 feet. The Bay runs back N.N.W.
1 1 miles from Middle Island, where I think there is the mouth of a river, the boat
leaving off in 3 fathoms in the channel, but that was very narrow.
Also due West from Fall Peak there is a boat channel leading into Chauan Bay:
the north-western portion of the bay is bounded by a range of rugged mountains.
In proceeding to the eastwai'd the coast on the eastern side of Old Thunder Head
must not be approached within a cable, as there are three rocks which shew at low
water along it.
REES ROCK.— Rees Rock bears S. 65° E. from Fall Peak, distant 1^ miles;
when upon it the Chimneys on the island which form Rees Pass bear N. 32° E.
The summit of the eastern islet of that group (S.E. Islet) N. 81° E., there is a rock
East of it one cable, which only breaks at low water spring tides. The channel
between Rees Rock and the main is used by the junks, but it is narrow and the
ground is foul.
REES PASS. — In Rees Pass there is a shoal with 2J fathoms on it at low water
3 cables from the shore of Chimney Island, bearing from the Chimneys S. 78° W.
The Plover rode out a very heavy gale of wind ranging from N.E. to E. by N.,
being anchored in 6 fathoms 2 cables from the Black Rock at the southern end of
the Sandy Bay under the Chimneys ; but I do not think that a vessel will gain any
thing by going through the Pass, as immediately on clearing the north end of Chim-
ney Island you are exposed to the same sea that you would experience to the eastward
of the group. Anchorage will also be found under South East Island in 5 or 6
fathoms with the south point bearing East.
WRECK ISLAND.— Wreck Island lies 6 cables to the N.E. of South East Island ;
ofl'its eastern end are several rugged rocks, on the outer of which the Simplicia went
to pieces on the 9th of October, 1844, having struck upon a reef which shews at low
water, and which lies N.E. one cable of the same rock. In this neighbourhood the
sea rises very rapidly after the commencement of a breeze and overtops, leading a
seaman to suppose that there must be some change in the soundings.
DANSBORG ISLAND.— Dansborg Island lies 2 miles to the N.E. of Wreck
Island : it has three peaks which are nearly of the same height, and is of an oblong
shape, being 6 cables in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and 2^ in width. To the W.N.W.
of it at the distance of l^ miles are two smaller islets.
CHING REEF.— Ching Reef bears from the western of the two islets N.19° W.
1| miles. It shews at half ebb, and when upon it the following are the bearings: —
N.E. Head of Dansborg Island, S. 51° E.
The Chimneys upon Chimney Island, S. 49° W.
The Awota Rock, S. 72° W.
Black Head, How-tow-shan, N. 10^° E.
It is of some extent, the north-western rocks, which break only at low water, being
2 cables from the highest part of the reef.
GOO REEF. — Goo Reef, which shews at the last quarter ebb, bears S. 69° W.
from it. The bearings upon it are : —
48 SUPPLEMENT.
The Chimneys on Chimney Island, S. 41° W.
Awota Rock, S. 81° W.
Summit of Wreck Island, S. 35° E.
Western islet of Dansborg Island, S. 82° E.
AWOTA ROCK. — The Awota Rock mentioned above lies close to the main to
the N.W. of Rees Pass, bearing N. 53° W. from Chimney Island.
HOW-TOW-SHAN HEAD. — How-tow-shan Head lies 6 miles north of Dans-
boro- Island. It is composed of five separate hills; the southern of which, Black
Head, is the most remarkable. Vessels might ride out a strong breeze under it in 4
fathoms, at the distance of 2 cables from the shore, particularly if the wind holds to
the northward; should, however, a gale come on, or the wind draw to the eastward,
the sooner this anchorage is quitted the better. Under which circumstances refuge
may be had by running through Rees Pass, and anchoring close under Chimney
Island or passing on to Tung-shan harbour. On the northern of the five hills is a
walled town.
HOW-TOW-SHAN RIVER— How-tow-shan River has deep water when inside,
but is not available for navigation without buoys, as the channels are narrow and
intricate. A spit extends 3 miles southerly from How-tow-shan, some parts of which
are dry at low water ; the eastern extreme of it bears S. 68° W. from Black Head.
From HOW-TOW-SHAN to RED BAY.— The coast from How-tow-shan to
Red Bay lies N.E., the distance being 10^ miles, and, with the exception of one hill
and two hillocks, is a sandy plain. To the eastward, 6 cables from How-tow-shan
Point, are some rocks, a portion of which are always uncovered.
SPIRE. — To the N.E. of the point is a rock with a remarkable square column on
it, which I have named Spire, and a low flat rock to the westward.
N. by W. 1 mile from Spire is Clift Rock, which must not be approached within
3 cables, as reefs lie oft it to the East and N.E.
NOB ROCK. — Nob Rock bears from Black Head East, and from the east head
of Red Bay S. 15° W., being 4f miles from the nearest shore ; it is steep to.
RED BAY. — In working up Red Bay, care must be taken to avoid a reef lying
a cables N. by E. from the low hill on the shore, 3 miles to the southward of the an-
chorage. When upon the reef, the eastern Black Rock bears N. 53° E. By tacking
when the Black Rocks are in one with the point beyond them, you will be one-third
of a mile to the eastward. Red Bay will be readily known by the two black rocks
oft' the point, as well as by the low red sand-hills at the back of it.
A reef extends north-westerly from the southern of the two rocks, leaving a passage
only for small boats between it and the main at low water.
S. 55° E.,* 7 cables from the southern Black Rock is a reef which is covered at
high water; the anchorage lies between the two, and the reef has 3 fathoms close to
it. The water shoals gradually in going in after having passed the rocks.
It will be found a very good roadstead in the northern monsoon ; there is a village
and a creek at the bottom of the bay.
RED BAY TO TING-TAE BAY.— From Red Bay toTing-tae Bay the distance
is 17 miles, the coast trending N.E. by N. It is steep to, with the exception of the
N.E. point of Red Bay and of some reefs and a sand spit, which lie west from Lam-tia,
and to the southward of a low hill with a house on its suuimit, where there is a Ijay
in which tlie water nuis a long way back, but it is shallow.
* There is no reef in the Chart in this position, but there is a reef near the shore W.N.W. of Black Rock,
which may be the one intended, as the anchorage is between the two.
SUPPLEMENT.
49
From Red Bay, Chapel Island bears E.N.E. 21 miles, and Lam-tia N.E. i E.
\0i miles.
Directions for Ting-tae Bay and avoiding the Merope Shoals have already been
given by Captain Kellett.
In navigating this portion of the coast during the north-east monsoon, the breeze
will be found to hang to the northward from 2 o'clock to 10 a.m., and in the eastern
quarter the remaining period. Deeply laden vessels will find it more advantageous to
seek shelter in one of the harbours or roads above mentioned during a strong north-
easterly wind than to keep the sea, as ground can seldom be gained, in consequence of
the perpendicularity of the seas.
Position of some of the places mentioned in the foregoing directions.
Place.
Particular Spot.
Lat. N.
Lor
. E.
Cape of Good Hope .
Summit
O
23
14'-02
116
47'
r South Rock
23
23
31
117
13-4
Lamock Islands
J High Lamock
23
15
47
117
17-9
I North Rock
23
17
39
117
19-5
Reef Island . .
Summit
23
18
99
117
7-6
Dome Island . .
Summit
23
21
41
117
8-5
Double Island
Centre
23
20
35
116
44-7
Shantowseang
Gate
23
21
43
116
39-9
Pagoda
23
24
51
116
49 07
South Bay
South Point
23
23
77
117
6-5
Baylis Bay
House
23
26
15
116
56-5
Stewart's Ho , .
23
27
06
116
57-5
West Peak
Summit
23
26
05
116
58-4
High Peak
Summit
23
26
45
117
5-3
Saddle Peak
Summit
23
28
01
117
24-3
Pagoda Bay . . . . . . '
Pagoda
23
29
33
117
6-8
Chauan Bay . .
Summit of Square Island . .
23
36
53
117
18-3
Owick Bay . .
S. end of the Point
23
34
54
117
21-8
Jokakko Peak
Summit
23
36
55
117
23-9
Fall Peak
Summit
23
47
15
117
36-8
N. W. Brother
Summit
23
33
75
117
40
S. E. Brother
Summit
23
32
59
117
41 -5
Middle Island
Eastern Head
23
45
02
117
32 6
Tongsan
Pagoda
23
44
02
117
32-6
Rees Pass
S. E. Island Summit
23
47
15
117
42-6
Dansborg Island
Centre
23
49
71
117
46-5
How-tow-shan
Black Peak
23
55
37
117
44 1
Nob Rock
23
55
41
117
52-5
Red Bay
Black Rocks
24
1
83
117
52-7
The variation is half a degree easterly.
Coast of China from Hoo-e-toiv Bat/ to Hae-tan Island, by Captain Collinson, R.N.
HOO-E-TOVV BAY. — Owing to the uncertain set of tlie currents in the Formosa
Channel, several vessels have mistaken this bay for the Harbour of Amoy. The fol-
lowing remarks will point out the difference in approach.
Dodd Island, called by the Chinese Pak-ting, is in lat. 24° 26' (>" N., and Ion.
118'^ 29' 4" E., and may be known from Chapel Island by a reef, on which the sea
always breaks 3 cables to the N.JN.E. of it: the former also is uneven, sloping to the guished from
•' ' ' 1 t3 pad, other.
Entrances of
Hoo-e-towand
Amoy (listin-
50
SUPPLEMENT.
floo-e-tow
Hay.
Reef off Dodd
Island.
Hoo-e-tow
Point.
Oyster Island
and Rock.
Thalia Bank.
Anchorage
West of Oyster
Island.
.\nchorage off
Flat Island.
Channel
between Thalia
Bank and
Queraoy.
eastward. Chapel Island rises suddenly, and there is a difficulty in saying which is
the highest part of it ; it is 8 miles from the nearest land, Dodd Island being only 3.
The entrance to Amoy, viz. from Chapel Island to the South point of Quemoy, is
11 miles, but from Dodd Island to Hoo-e-tow Point is only 5 miles. The rocks off
the South point of Quemoy are peaked ; the reef off Hoo-e-tow Point is flat.
There are two pagodas on Quemoy Point, the land near them extending N.W. by
W. and S.E. by E. On Hoo-e-tow Point there is a small obelisk, and the land turns
suddenly to the northward.
Hoo-E-Tovv Bay will afford very good shelter in the North-east Monsoon, as the
point may be brought to bear S.E. by E. in 3^ fathoms, and vessels drawing less than
18 feet may bring it to bear S.S.E.
There is a rocky ledge from E. by N. to E.N.E., rather more than a mile from
Dodd Island, and on it are two patches, one of which breaks and the other has only
one fathom at low water. The eastern extreme of the land seen to the northward
bears N. 43° E. from its eastern edge.
North of Dodd Island one mile, and on the same bearing about half a mile, are two
rocks, with only 3 feet at low water ; and N. 60° W. 5 cables is a reef, which will shew
at half tide.
Hoo-e-tow point is low ; about 80 feet above the sea, on the hills north of it, is a
small fort and a remarkable nob at the north head of the bay as you enter. The reefs
extend S. 40° E. 3 cables from the point ; also from the first point, inside, they extend
westerly rather more than 2 cables.
Oyster Island is a low flat rock, N. 47° W., 2 miles from the point. Vessels running
in for shelter will find smooth water between them, taking care to avoid the Oyster
Rock, which shews at low water spring tides, and bears from the Island S. 2° E. 9f
cables ; when on it the obelisk on the point bears E. 27° S. ; the fort N. 67° E ; and
the summit of Flat Island is in line with the left slope of a conical hill in the bottom of
the bay, bearing N. 70° W.
The East end of Thalia Bank bears W. ^ S., rather more than 2 miles from the point,
and N. 16° E. from Dodd's Island ; it extends nearly to the White Rocks in the centre
of the bay, the East end having on it If fathoms ; the West end dries, and the N.E.
part of it is steep to, the lead giving no warning.
There is anchorage also to the westward of Oyster Island in 5 fathoms ; but it must
not be brought to bear to the southward of East, as there is a rocky ledge with only one
fathom on it 7 cables from the island.
Vessels requiring shelter in a southerly breeze may run up and anchor to the N.E. of
Flat Island at the distance of half a mile; it bears W. by N. 5i miles from Oyster
Island. The northern edge of Thalia Bank bears S. 69° E. from Flat Island ; do not
bring it therefore to the westward of N. 69° W. and keep Oyster Island open to the
northward of the fort to avoid the shoals on the northern shore of the bay.
There is a channel between Thalia Bank and Quemoy, but the ground is foul with
several reefs, and should not be attempted without the chart or some previous know-
ledge. A leading course to clear the South end of the banks is the Chimneys on the
north point of Quemoy bearing W. by N. until the White Rocks bear N.N.E. when a
course must be steered to pass half a mile from the points of the Bays on the Quemoy
shore.
At the head of Hoo-e-tow Bay are two remarkable sharp peaks which form good
leading marks from the sea. The eastern is 1,390 feet high, and is in lat. 24° 40' N.
Ion. 118° 22' E.
Fresh water can be obtained under the fort at the point.
SUPPLEMENT. 51
The ten miles of coast line between Hoo-e-tovv and Cliimmo Bay is low ; the sand- coast between
hills heins: about 300 feet high. There are two walled towns between the two, the Hoo-e-towand
I r- 1 • 1 1 11 ■ TVT 11 \v. Cliimino Bays,
southern of whicli has a small pagoda near it. JNone of the small sandy bays afford
shelter, the boats being all hauled up upon the beach. Six miles from Hoo-e-tow
Point and three from Pagoda Island is a peak with three chimneys on it.
CHIMMO BAY will be easily recognized by the Keu-sau or Chimmo Pagoda,
which is 700 feet above the sea, and is in lat. 24° 43' N., Ion. 1 18° 38' E. It is situated
If miles from the beach at the North end of the bay.
On the southern side of the bay are two islets, South Island and Pagoda Island, the
channel between which and between Pagoda Island and the South point of the bay
are full of rocks.
N. 4° W. 6 and 7 cables from South Island are two rocks, which shew at low water Rocks.
spring tides. When on these the East end of Pagoda Island is in line with a flat reef
outside the South end of the bay. To pass to the northward of them, keep a large tree
half a mile from the beach in the N.VV. part of the bay, open to the left of the North
fall of a remarkable shoulder peak, which will be bearing N.W., and also when Point
Island is in line with the East end of the first point beyond the bay northerly, you will
be to the westward of them. From the reef to Point Island is 1:|; miles; the latter is
steep to, but there is a reef which covers at half tide W. 9° S. 3 cables from it. The
water shoals gradually, and vessels drawing 15 feet or more must not bring the Point
Island to the southward of E. 9° S. This bay at the best is but a roadstead, and is a
dangerous one in the Southerly Monsoon.
The walled town of Yung-ning or Englang is situated at the northern side of the Towns.
bay, and Chimmo on the southern, besides several large villages along its shores, the
inhabitants of which do not bear a good character.
There is a large fleet of fishing boats belonging to this bay, whose nets will be fallen
in with 6 miles from the shore all the way from Hoo-e-tow to Chinchew.
The coast towards Chin-chew Bay trends north-easterly. The distance from Point coast towards
Island to Chin-chew Point being 8 miles. Several sandy bays occur, which afford g!j'"''^'"''^
shelter for junks, but being shoal will only be of service to vessels of their draft. One
and a half miles to the southward of Chung-chi Point is a small islet in a bay, with a
building like a bell on it.
CHIN-CHEW BAY.— Chung-chi Point is about 400 feet above the sea, and forms
the South entrance point of Chin-chew Bay. Sunken rocks extend from it 2 cables to
the eastward. It is in lat. 24° 45' N., and Ion. 118° 45' E.*
The course hence into Chin-chew Bay is North until Cho-ho Pagoda is shut in with
Seao-toi, when it may be steered for.
The following directions will take you over the Bar into the anchorage off the Boot
sand, and the description and position of the dangers will follow.
Being half a mile to the southward of Passage Island, steer for the South end of Directions for
Pa-toi, which will be known by its being the highest island in the neighbourhood, ^^^^'i'^'*""
When you are within 3 cables of it, edge away to the southward, passing to the east-
ward of Seao-toi (a low barren islet) at a cable's length ; haul to the westward round
it, keeping at the same distance from high-water mark. When Seao-toi West Summit
is in line with Ta-toi Summit you are in the narrowest part of the channel, which here
is barely a cable wide at low water. Having passed Seao-toi, a W.N.W. course will
take you up to the anchorage above Pi-sai in mid-channel. By keeping this islet to
the westward of N. 7.3° VV., the rock off Cho-ho Pagoda will be avoided ; and by not
bringing Seao-toi to the southward of S. 02° E., the knee and toe of the Boot will be
* Lat. 24° 46' N. Ion. 118° 46' by the Chart.
52
SUPPLEMENT,
Kocks off Pas-
sage Isliiiid.
A nchorace
North of the
Boot Sand.
Lynx Rock.
Taheen Rock.
Mid-channel
Reef.
Choho Keef.
Ota Rook.
Entrance of
Chinchew
River.
PyramidPoint
avoided. The outline of this bank is, however, generally visible. The anchorage is
North of Pi-sai ]^ miles or 2 miles, where the channel is 3 cables wide.
There are three rocks to the eastward of Passage Island, which cover at high water.
The south-easternmost of the three bears E. 8° S. half a mile from the island. There
is also a ledge extending from its S.W. point 1| cables. N. 40"^ E. from Passage
Island are two white rocks, part of which are always uncovered ; the channel between
the two is unsafe. To the northward of the White Rocks is Tha-kut, an island at
high water only, with a large town upon it. There is a sunken rock between them,
which bears from the highest part of the northern White Rock N. 17° E., and is
distant 5 cables from it ; the summit of Ta-toi bears from it S. 71° W.
Vessels intending to anchor to the northward of the Boot Sand, must steer to pass
North of Ta-toi, which is distant 3 miles from Passage Island, and if drawing less than
3 fathoms may run up until Cho-ho Pagoda bears South, where you will be about 1|
miles from the usual anchorage, to the southward of the Boot. The north edge of the
Boot will be avoided by keeping the White Rocks, mentioned above, to the southward
of East.
With Ta-toi Summit bearing S. 17° E., there is a half-tide rock on the North side,
1^ cables from the shore. There is good anchorage in 3| and 4 fathoms, with Ta-toi
bearing S.E. by S. The Boot may be cros.sed by a vessel of light draft at high water,
but it should be sounded first, as the sands shift.
A vessel drawing 11 feet is reported to have struck on a bank l^ miles easterly from
Seao-toi, but not less than 2:1; fathoms was found on it in March, 1844. The Southerly
Monsoon may, however, cause the sands to accumulate. Cho-ho Pagoda, open to the
northward of Seao-toi, will place you in 3 fathoms on its northern edge, and the South
end bears S. 80° E. from Seao-toi.
The Lynx Rock, with only 6 feet upon it at low water, lies S. 77° E. not quite
5 cal)les from the highest part of Seao-toi ; when on it Ta-toi Summit bears N. 14° W.
and Passage Island N. 62° E.
S. 1 1° E., two cables from it, is the Taheen Rock, which shews at low water spring
tides. When on it, Cho-ho Pagoda bears N. 87° W. and Ta-toi Summit N. 14° W.
The bottom between it and the rocks, which lie S.S.W. from Seao-toi, is rocky and
uneven, and in some places there is only 6 feet, but a channel through it is used by
the vessels coming out of Chin-chew when the wind is too far to the eastward to
permit them to fetch through between Seao-toi and the Lynx Rock, by keeping the
highest part of the rocks S.S.W. from Seao-toi in line with Cho-ho Pagoda.
The mid-channel reef South of Seao-toi is a cable's length from the S.W. point of
that island. It is two cables in circumference, and three rocks shew at low water
spring tides. The channel between it and the rocks South of it is rather more than
half a cable wide. When on the reef the West summit of Seao-toi is in a line with the
highest part of Ta-toi. Rocks extend half a cable from Seao-toi on its South, S.W.,
and East sides.
A sand spit extends easterly from Choho Pagoda 1| miles, and the reef off it bears
N. 52° E. half a mile from the Pagoda, and from the summit of Pisai S. 73° E.
The Ota Rock, which is also covered at high water, lies East from Pisai 5 cables,
Choho'Pagoda bearing from it S. 40° E.
The entrance of Chinchew River bears N. 65° W. 3 miles from Pisai. The channels
are shoal and intricate, the large junks being obliged to wait for high water; near the
mouth on the left bank is a circular fort. The city is on the North bank of the river
4 or 5 miles above the fort.
Pyramid Point, the north-eastern horn of the bay, is in lat. 24° 52' N., Ion. 118°
58' E., Passage Island bearing from it S. 73° W. 8^ miles. Vessels requiring shelter
during the North-east Monsoon will find it in the first bay West of the Pyramid,
SUPPLEMENT,
53
taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies a cable's length Soutli of the first point
to the eastward of the walled city of Tong-boo. The Pyramid Rock is connected
with the point at low water, and to the south-eastward is a rock which is never
covered. East of it are several rocks, the outer one of which bears N. Go° E. 6 cables
from the Pyramid and the highest part of the land forming the JNorth side of Matheson
Harbour N. 11° E. A cliff head at the end of the promontory, extending south-
westerly from the hills mentioned above, in one with a remarkable cone in the bay,
bearing N. 16° W., will put you on it.
MATHESON HARBOUR.— Matheson Harbour, called by the Chinese Goolai,
lies immediately to the northward of Chin-chew Bay, the isthmus near the town of
Tong-boo being only one mile across. The bay is 4 miles wide at tlie mouth, and will
afford tolerable shelter to vessels drawing 12 feet if the wind be to the northward of
East; but it is only a roadstead, and that a bad one in the South-east Monsoon.
There are no dangers in it except a rock, which lies North 4 cables from the largest
islet on the South shore. The highest part of the North headland is in lat. 24° 57' N.,
Ion. 119°0'E.
MEI-CHOW SOUND.— Mei-chow Sound is 6 miles across at the entrance, and
will be known by the Nine Pin Rock, which lies in the centre near the entrance.
South of it one mile is a cluster of rocks, one of which, Square Rock, does not cover
at high water; the outer part of the reef extends south-westerly U cables from it.
AYest, 9 cables from the Nine Pin, is a flat patch, which is level with the water's
edge at high water. Between this patch and Rugged Point, which forms the North
head of the sound, is good anchorage in the Northerly Monsoon.
Rugged Point may be approached without fear except on its East side, from whence
there is a reef rather less than a cable's length from the shore ; 3|- and 4 fathoms will
be found at the distance of 3 cables from the sandy beach.
N. 19° E., one mile from the Nine Pin, is a rock, which will be seen at low water,
and bears N. 60° W. from the highest part of Rugged Point. There is a passage
between it and the Nine Pin, but rocks extend one cable in this direction from the
latter.
In the Southerly Monsoon vessels will find a good harbour to the N.W. of Saddle
Island, which bears N.W. by N. 3^ miles from the Nine Pin. Pass to the southward
of the South islet off it, and haul to the northward round the western islet, givmg it a
berth of a cable at hish water to avoid a ledge. The ground is uneven hereabouts,
and there are only U fathoms one mile to theW.N.AV. of West Saddle Island.
N. by E. from Saddle Island one mile is a low cliff islet, from the West pomt of which
is a sand-bank, extending nearly | of a mile to the north-westward. 'IMie South peak of
Saddle Island kept to the eastward of S.S.E. will avoid it. When Mound Peak (which
is on the Main and is 3 miles North of Saddle, with a walled town and Pagoda near it)
bears East, you are past the sand-bank, and may haul in towards the town. N. 73° W.,
2^ miles from Mound Peak, is a bank with only one fathom on it. The junks use the
channel between Mound Peak and the Low Cliff Island, but it is awkward without
personal knowledge. They also pass to the northward of Mei-chow Island, but this
channel has but 9 feet, and is strewn with rocks. The sound runs back 10 miles to
the northward of Mound
Hing-hwa-foo Bays.
Peak,
forming
narrow
isthmuses between Ping-hae and
InnerHarboiir.
SOUTH ROCK bears W.J N.3f miles from Rugged Point. It is in lat. 25^2' N. somh Rock.
and Ion. 119° 11' E., being about 60 feet high, with a rock South off it f of a cable.
North Rock bears N. 34° E. 9h miles froui the Soutii Rock, and lies on the North North Rock
side of Pinghae Bav. It is 90 fe~et hiiih, is conically shaped, and is 4 cables from the ^" '^"'•
Vol. II. ' " 3
54
SUPPLEMENT,
Anchorage off
Pinghae.
Lootzee and
Rocks near it.
shore. The fort on the low hills West of the town hears from it N. 37° W. Reefs
extend nearly one mile from the Main to the northward of North Rock.
Anchorage will be found off the town of Pinghae in 3 fathoms, with North Rock
bearing- S.E. by E.
Five miles VVest of the anchorage is a high range of hills, one of the peaks of which
(Marlin Spike) will form a good guide for this part of the coast. The bay runs back
past the foot of the Marlin Spike range, but is shoal, there being seldom more than
two fathoms to the westward of the range.
LOOTZEE. — Lootzee lies 5A miles E.S.E. of North Rock, and there are two sunken
rocks between them. These rocks lie 2 miles W. by N. from Lootzee, and when on
them North Rock will be in a line with Marlin Spike Hill, and the N.E. islet of
Lootzee is in line with the islet off the South face of Lamyet. There is also a rock,
which shews at half tide, N.N.W. 2 cables from the N.E. islet of Lootzee, and another
S. 9° W. 8 cables from it ; the latter lies East from the high peak of Lootzee.
The sand bank extends 2:^ miles southerly from the S.W. point of Lamyet. By
keeping the West end of the island (which has three chimneys on it) to the eastward of
North, its western edge will be avoided. There is also a rocky patch, having only
1| fathoms in some places, the East end of which bears S. by W. 2 miles from the
East islet in the channel between Lamyet and the Main. On its South edge, the
Chimney Point mentioned above bears N. 77° E.
ANCHORAGE to the WESTWARD of LAMYET.-The junks anchor
under the first point South of the Chimneys, off which there is a rock which will
always shew. This will be found a snug anchorage for small vessels, as there is a
considerable swell in the channel between Lamyet and the Main with a northerly
gale. Care must be taken to round the rock at the point close, as there is a sunken
rock in the bay cables to the southward of it, and the reef must not be brought to
the westward of N.N.W. as the water shoals suddenly.
Anchorage for large vessels will be found to the northward of the Chimney point in
4 and 5 fathoms; the depth of water op{)osite the point is from 12 to 15 fathoms.
Vessels intending to pass to the northward and westward of the Lamyets ought to
use the channel to the northward of Passage Islands, which are three in number, and
bear N.N.E. 5 miles from the Chimney point. Between the North point of Lamyet
and the Passage Islands is Cliff Island, in the neighbourhood of which are several
reefs, rendering the channel between it and Lamyet, also between it and the Passage
Islands, precarious.
A ledge extends westerly 2 cables from the S.W. point of West Passage Island.
The channel to the northward of it is 4 cables wide, being bounded on the North by
a rock with a reef which shews at low water a cable and a half West of it.
North of the rock 1^ cables is a small islet, and northward of the islet 4 cables is
Rugged Island.
The North-east of the Passage Island is a bold bluff which is steep to on its
northern face, from whence you may steer to pass either North or South of White
Island which bears West* from Passage Island 4^ miles. If to the South beware of
three rocks which lie S. by W. 1 mile from it.
E. 12° N. 2^ miles from White Island is the South rock of a reef extending from an
island on the coast, which having passed, vessels may haul to the northward, and work
up inside Chimney Island, to the westward of which there are no dangers, except
a rock at the entrance of the inlet (on the South point of which is a walled town and a
pagoda) on the western shore, which will be avoided by keeping l^ cables from the
shore.
* East by the Chart.
SUPPLEMENT. 55
The sailing directions for passing to sea northward or southward of Chimney Island
have already been given by Capt. Kellett.
The passage through the Hae-tan Strait is not to be recommended, being very Hae-tan strait,
intricate; the junks however invariably use it, but we found one that had been
detained 27 days, waiting for an opportunity to get out at the northern end. The
flood tide comes in at both ends of the Strait, meeting in the neighbourhood of the
Castle Rock.
HUNG-HWA-FOO SOUND.— Vessels bound into Hang-hwa-foo Sound must
steer to the northward from Chimney Point (on the West side of Lamyet) 7 miles,
when they will be a mile to the northward of Nob Island, and may steer for Fort
Point which bears N.W. 7|- miles from Nob. There is a patch of rocks to the N.W.
of Nob Island, the easternmost of which bears N. by W. from it 8 cables, and the
northernmost N.W. ^ W. 2| miles; part of them always shew.
Another patch will be found E.S.E. of Fort Point, the south-easternmost of which
bears S. 68° E. 2 miles from F'ort Corner.
Good anchorage in 6 fathoms will be found with the Fort Corner bearing E.N.E.,
but the point extending from it has rocks which will shew at low water 1^ cables from
high water mark. Tlie sand line at low water trends N.W. by W. from the point.
The entrance to Hung-hwa-foo River bears W. by S. from the Fort Corner, the
depth of water shoals to feet 5 miles from the Fort. On the main S.W. from the
Fort is a piratical establishment. — May 22, 1844.
Sailing Directions for the Pescadores Islands, by Caj)tain Collinson, H.N.
The PONGHOU, or PESCADORES, consist of twenty-one inhabited islands, be-
sides several rocks. They extend from lat. 23° 13' to 23° 48' N. and Ion. 119° 16' to
119° 37' E. Their general appearance is flat, the summits of many of the islands being
nearly level, and no part of the group being 300 feet above the sea.
The two largest islands are situated near the centre of the archipelago, forming an
extensive and excellent harbour between them. The western island of the two
(Fisher's Island) is 5 miles from North to South, and 3^ miles from East to West.
On its S.W. extreme is a lighthouse 225 feet above the sea. Lighthouse.
To enter the harbour, pass half a mile to the southward of the Lighthouse Point,
and then steer for Macon, which is situated on the North side of an inlet on the great
Ponghou, and will be readily recognized by a citadel, and a line of embrasures.
The large junks waiting tor a favourable wind to take them to Formosa, lie to the
S.W. of the town in 7 and 8 fathoms water, with a black rock, which is midway be-
tween Fisher's Island and Macon, bearing about N.E. by N.
In the Plover, we ran into the inner harbour to the eastward of Macon, passing be-
tween it and Chimney Point, and anchored with the latter bearing N. 54° SV., distant
6 cables, which is also the width of the channel here.
The junks belonging to the place lie close to the town, in a creek, which runs back
to the northward of the citadel. There is water sufficient for a square-rigged vessel,
but the harbour there is much confined by coral reefs.
The only danger on entering the harbour by this passage is a shoal with only nine Dangers,
feet on it at low water, which lies N.W. ^ W. from the centre of Small Table Island.
Its S.W. extreme having 4 fathoms water, bears N. 50° W., M miles from the South
end of Small Table; and its N.E. limit bears N. 55° W. from the North point of the
same island. The western limit bears S. 65° W. from Dome Island.
Dome Island lies N. by E ^ E., If miles from Small Table, and has a reef Dome Ward.
56
SUPPLEMENT.
Flat Island.
IniierHarbour.
Great
Pongliou.
Black Rock.
Fisher'slsland.
Tortoise Rock.
which is just awash at high water, 5 cables to the westward of it. It is 2| cables
from the S.W. end of the large Ponghou.
To the northward of Dome Island is Flat Island, which is 2 cables to the westward
of Chimney Point, and is surrounded by reefs which extend a cable's length from high
water mark.
Shoal water extends northerly f of a cable from Chimney Point, on which is the
Old Dutch Fort.
The Inner Harbour runs back 3 miles to the eastward from Chimney Point. There
are 4- coral patches in it which are awash at low water spring tides, and may always
be detected from the mast-head in time to avoid them.
The westernmost bears from Chimney Point S. 59° E., and from the Dome Hill
(a remarkable elevation in the southern part of the harbour) ^. 14° W.
On tiie same bearing from the Chimney Fort, and 2^ cables farther to the eastward,
is another patch, on which the Dome Hill bears South ; and with the Dome Hill
S. 5° W. and a Dutch Fort N. 48° W. is another reef. Also, with the Fort bearing
N. 49° W., and the Dome Hill S. 32° W., is the fourth shoal. They are all small in
extent, and steep to.
The Chimney, or Dutch Fort, above alluded to, is on the S.W, point of the Great
Ponghou, which in some places is barely a cable's length broad, and so low, that a
vessel in this part of the harbour might be fired into from one outside.
The Large Ponghou is 9^^ miles from North to South, and 7 miles from East to
West. It is, however, separated into three portions by narrow channels, which have
only 2 feet at low water, and are further blocked by stone weirs. The whole of the
western face of the island is fronted by coral reefs. Water is obtained from wells ;
the three we used yielded three tons daily. Bullocks and fish were reasonable and
plentiful.
Vessels in a N.E. gale seeking shelter will find smooth water between the light-
house and the S.E. point of Fisher's Island, where there are two sandy bays, in the
northern of which is a fort or line of embrasures, and in the southern is a run of water
except during the dry season.
The S.E. point is a bold cliff 170 feet above the sea, N. 54° E. 1^ miles from which is
tiie Black Rock, part of which is always uncovered. Vessels passing to the N. East-
ward of it must keep within 4 cables, as the coral patches extend in this direction from
the large Ponghou.
The coast line of Fisher's Island trends North from the S.E. point, forming several
small bays which are steep to within a cable of the beach, until you are 2^ miles North
of the South-east point when the reefs extend nearly three cables. To avoid which
the fall of the S.E. point must not be brought to the southward of S. 14° W. after
Macon citadel opens to the northward of the Black Rock.
The Plover lay beyond this point in 3 fathoms with the Black Rock bearing
N. 19° E. and the highest part of the centre island E. ^ N. In the bay abreast of her
was a good stream of fresh water. The liarbour beyond this point is much clioked
with coral patches; there is however a passage out between Fisher's Island and the Large
Ponghou for vessels of 16 feet draft ; to render it available, however, local knowledge is
necessary.
To avoid the coral reefs which extend from the shore of the Great Ponghou do not
stand further over on that side than to bring the Black Rocks S.S.W.
Shelter from southerly winds will be found in the bay formed by the northern ends,
Fisher's Island and the Great Ponghou. The N.E. point of the' former is a table
bluff, with reefs which cover at high water extending 2 cables north-easterly from it.
The Tortoise Rock, which is 2 miles from the N.W. point of Fisher's Island, is
9 feet above high water and is steep to. There is a* shoal patch of 2 fathoms about
SUPPLEMENT. 57
half a mile to the southward of it; and on the western face of Fisher's Island is a reef
which breaks at low water 7 cables from the shore and which bears N. 14° E. from shoais.
the lighthouse.
The Archipelago to the northward of Fisher Island and Great Ponghou does not
afford any inducement for a vessel to enter it. The external dangers therefore will
only be noticed.
N. 58° E. from the Tortoise Rock is Sand Island, which will be known by a hum- sand island.
mock which rises on the low land in the centre of the island. Oft' its S.W. end is a
rock, and the reefs extend north-westerly 3 cables from it. To the eastward of it half
a mile is a flat black island, and to the northward is a cluster of stones, some of which
are always above water.
Low Island bears E.N.E. from Sand Island ; a long sandy point forms its South Low island,
extreme from the North point, the shoal water extends 3 miles.
North Island, which is nearly connected by reefs with Low Island, is 1^ miles from North island.
the North point of it, and has a house on it for the shelter of the fishermen.
The northern extremity of Nortli Reef uncovers at low water, and bears from North Reef.
N. 29° W, to N. 9° W. from North Island distant U miles ; from its West extreme,
which is steep to (for the lead gives no warning). Sand Island bears S. 20° W., and
as from the West point of Low Island the reef extends towards the North Reef, Sand
Island must not be brought to bear to the westward of S. by W. until the West point
of Low Island bears to the eastward of E. by S. Shelter from southerly winds will be
found to the northward of these reefs and Low Island.
From the N.E. end of Low Island, North East Sand Island bears S.E. by S. n.e. sand
5 miles. It is a small islet with a sand patch on its South clift; and is surrounded ^''''"''
with rocks, being nearly connected with the two islands to the southward of it, the
southern of which has a large village on it.
S. 10° E., 3 miles from North East Sand Island, is Organ Island ; there is a reef organ island.
bearing N. 37° E. 1 mile from it ; when upon it, North East Sand Island bears
N. 34° W.
Ragged Island bears S.E. by E. 1| miles from Organ Island. The whole of the Ragged island.
East coast of the Large Pescadore, opposite these 5 islands, is shoal. The eastern
extremity is a low shelvins: point, H miles from which is Round Island, bearing from Round island.
Ragged Island S.20°E. 3i miles, aiid S.^ E. If miles from Ragged Island is Tripple Trippie island.
Island.
N. 59° W. from Tripple Island and S. 45° W. from Round Island is a reef, which
covers at half tide ; and between Round and Organ Islands are several overfalls.
The S.E. point of the Great Ponghou bears N. 52° W. from Tripple Island, and
between the two are two bays with fishing villages, either of which would afford tole-
rable shelter in the Northerly Monsoon.
Great Table Island is aptly named, the summit being a dead flat 200 feet above the fj^^'^^abie
sea. Not far from the S.W. end is a sudden foil nearly to the level of the sea,^ giving
at a short distance the appearance of two islands. It is not quite 2 miles in an E. by N.
and W. by S. direction, and is seldom 3 cables'in width. Towards the N.E. end was
a good run of water in the month of June. The two fathoms line extends 2 cables
from its eastern extreme.
Small Table lies a mile to the N.W. of the Great Table, and between the two there s™''" Table
are from 12 to 19 fathoms water. The distance from Small Table to the South point '^" •
of Great Ponghou is 2J miles, with from 2 to 32 fathoms water. Directions for
avoiding the shoal off Small Table Island have already been given.
From Great Table Island, West Island bears S. t)6° W. 10^ miles, and from the west island.
lighthouse on the South end of Fisher Island S. 40° W. 12 miles. It is two miles in
circumference and uneven in appearance.
58
SUPPLEMENT.
High Island.
South Island.
Reef Islands.
East Island.
Nine Feet
Reef.
Rover Group.
South of West Island, 4^ miles, is High Island, which is dome-shaped, 300 feet
high, and | of a mile in circumference. To the eastward of it one mile is a low flat
island, and between the two are several rocks, one of which rises to the height of
60 feet, with a remarkable gap in it, and S. 51° E. 1^ miles from the summit of High
Island is a rock nearly level with the water's edge.
South Island is 2 miles from East to West and Ij from North to South. The depth
of water in its vicinity is 15 and 16 fathoms. On its S.W. side is a reef of rocks
extending 6 cables from the shore, within which is a small harbour for boats; its
eastern face is bold clifts. The western extreme is a long shelving point, and the
highest part of the island 260 feet above the sea. From it High Island bears N.W. ^ N.
9 miles; Reef Island J\.E. by E. ^ E. 6 miles ; East Island E. by N. 12 miles.
Reef Islands are three in number, one of which is a remarkable pyramid ; the other
two are rather more than a mile each in circumference, and are connected at low
water by a stony ledge. To the southward of them the reefs extend half a mile.
South from the East end of the eastern Island of the two is a pyramidal rock 80 feet
above the sea ; there is also a low flat rock nearly level with the water's edge S. 33° W.
If miles from the same place ; and S. 45° E. from the East end is a small peaked
rock, with a reef to the southward of it.
East Island lies East of Reef Island 8| miles. Between the two and distant 5 miles
from the latter is a smaller island, 1*6 miles in circumference, with a reef extending
easterly not quite a mile from its North point. East Island is 2^ miles in circumfe-
rence, and has a small islet 5 cables from its western shore.
The Nine Feet Reef bears N. 19° E. from the East end of East Island ; when on it
the Dome Hill on Ponghou bears N. 73° W. 10^ miles; Tripple Island N. 29° W.
4 miles. The lead gives no warning, but if there is any tide the ripple will be sufficient
to indicate its position.
The Rover Group is composed of two larger islands and several rocks ; the western
of the two islands is 2 miles from North to South and 1 from East to West ; the
summit is near the eastern shore, and rises like a dome, with a large pile upon it.
S.W. from it 2|- miles is the end of a reef which extends westerly from the South
point of the island : its extreme shews at all times of tide. There is also a rock under
the highest part of the island, bearing S. 70° W. from it, 2 cables from the shore.
The N.W. point of the island is not steep to, and off" the N.E. point is a rock which
will always shew : there is a channel between it and the point. The distance between
the East and West Islands is barely a cable ; the former is a mile from North to
South, and ]i miles from East to West : on its N.W. face are two islets. In the bay,
to the southward of the southern one, a small vessel might take shelter in a northerly
wind, taking the precaution not to stand too far in, as there are only 6 feet 2 cables
from the beach. On the West end of the island, which is a cliff", are three embrasures.
Having passed between the two islands, in doing which the western island should
be kept on board, a small rock in the centre of the channel, to the southward, will be
seen. Pass to the eastward of it, but the channel is narrow, and the only excuse for
a stranger using it would be being caught at anchor to the northward of the two islands
in a breeze from the northward, and unable to fetch clear either to the eastward or
westward. The West point of the East Island is remarkable from an insulated cliff"
100 feet high, which forms the most striking feature in the group, 7 cables to the
westward of which is a ledge of rocks, part of which is always above water. The
islands are sufficiently large to afford shelter in either monsoon. The general depth
of water on the southern shore is 7 and 8 fathoms, and on the northern 13 and 14.
From the highest part of the Rover Group the lighthouse bears N. by W. lOi miles;
the Reef Islands bear S. 8°E. 3i miles from the same place. The general depth of
water on the western side of the archipelago is 30 and 35 fathoms ; there are, however.
SUPPLEMENT.
59
some places in which there is as much as 60. To the eastward of the group the depth
is 40 fathoms, and the current is strong. The tides are much affected by the prevail-
ing winds; so much so, that during the month of August we sometimes experienced
a tide of 4 knots per hour on the flood running to the northward, whilst with the ebb
the current slackened for two and three hours, but seldom ran with any velocity from
the northward. On the whole, a person navigating in this neighbourhood may safely
allow that the efl^ectof the current, and tide together, will set him, according to the
prevailing monsoon, 17 miles in one tide.
ASTRONOMICAL POSITIONS.
Name.
Spot.
LatN.
Lon. E.
Observatory
f Second Point on North side Inner ")
l Harbour . . . . . . . . J
O /
23 33
o /
119 30
Dome Hill
Summit . .
23 32
119 31
Lighthouse
23 33i
119 25
South Island
Centre . .
23 13|
119 22
High Island
Highest part
23 20
119 16
East Island
South Point
23 16
119 37
West Island
Highest part
23 2U
119 17
Nine Feet Reef
23 28^
119 42
Tripple Island . .
Highest part
23 32
119 39i
N.E. Sand Island
Highest part
23 40
119 36
North Reef
23 471
119 32
North Island
Highest part
23 46
119 32
Variation 0° 54' West.
TORRES STRAIT. Beacon on the great Barrier Reef.
Her Majesty's government having directed that a lofty and substantial beacon of
stone should be built on one of the rocks of the Great Barrier Reef, for the guidance
of vessels bound through Torres Strait ; and Captain Blackwood, of H.M.S. Fly,
having selected Raine Island for that purpose, and having recently reported that the
beacon had been completed, the following notice of it is now published by the Admi-
ralty for the benefit of seamen.
The beacon is of a circular form, 30 feet in diameter at the base, and 27 feet at the
top ; the building is 64 feet in height, and at low water it stands 75 feet above the
level of the sea. It is painted with alternate red and white vertical stripes; and in
clear weather it is visible from a ship's deck at the distance of 8 or 9 miles, but from
the mast head, at 12 or 1.3 miles. Its lat, is 11° 35' S. and lon. 144° 6' E. of Green-
wich.
Raine Island is in the middle of an opening, of about 8 miles in breadth, through the
outer Barrier Reef; no bottom is found with 125 fathoms in any part of this opening,
nor close up to the island, which is a low and narrow coral rock about a quarter of a
mile in length. Though without water, it carries a coarse green vegetation, while
Pandora Islet, which is 8 miles farther to the northward in lat. 11° 27' S. is a bare
bank of sand.
The extreme points of the reefs which form the above opening bear from the beacon
N.N.E. ^ E. and S.S.E. f E. by compass. The time of high water at full and change
is 10 o'clock ; the rise at ordinary springs about 10 feet ; and the strength of the tide
sometimes amounts to 2 knots. The Hood comes in from the eastward and there is a
general current of about a knot, setting to the northward (or to leeward) along the
face of the reef. The variation of the compass is 4° 30' E.
60 • SUPPLEMENT.
A vessel coming from the southward, and intending to penetrate the Barrier by
Raine Island, should be pretty certain of her latitude ; and when running in to the
westward towards the reefs, she should so shape her course as to make the beacon well
on the starboard bow, in order to allow for the northerly current.
When the beacon is clearly made out the island will soon be seen and may be passed
on either hand, as both channels are 2^ miles wide. The southern channel will be
the most convenient, but the reef, which projects a good mile from the S.E. end of the
island, must be avoided.
When the island is passed, a S.W. by W. ^ W. course by compass will lead through
a wide opening in the second line of reefs, and the Hardy Islands will soon be seen, as
their distance from Raine Island is but 40 miles. Some scattered coral heads will,
Jioweve:, have to be passed, for which a good look-out should be kept ; and it is
recommended to all vessels, which have to run to the westward among these coral
patches, to do so in the morning, before the sun passes much to the westward of the
meridian, as the patches may then be distinctly seen from the mast head, or from the
fore yard, at both of which places a careful look-out man should be stationed.
SUPPLEMENT, 61
CHITTAGONG. — The following notice has been published respecting the lights
on the coast : —
East-India House, London, April 29th, 1846.
Notice is herebj' given that the Court of Directors of the East-India Company have received intelligence
from Calcutta, to the effect that the Light vessel stationed between the Patches on the Coast of Chittagong,
in lat. 21° 27' N. Ion. 91° 45' E. would be withdrawn on or about the 20th of April, and that it was expected
that the Lighthouse on Kootubdeed Island would be lighted in the beginning of the month of February last.
J. C. Melvill, Secretary.
PENANG. — The following instructions drawn up by Mr. Congleton, of the East-
India Company's steam ship Diana, have been published by the resident councillor
at Singapore, for the guidance of vessels entering Penang from the southward.
There are two lines of beacons ; those on the east side of the channel, five in
number, are painted white in the form of a cross, and those on the west side, three
in number, painted red in the form of a triangle.
The first or southernmost white cross beacon is visible from 3 to 4 miles, bearing
E. ^ N. from the south end of Saddle Island, and S.S.E. one mile from the middle
of Pulo Remo.
Vessels will be safe in working if they do not stand to the eastward of the white
cross beacons.
The southern red triangle beacon is off the north end of Pulo Jerajah, and vessels
having passed it must take care to keep more on the east side of the channel to avoid
a small patch, with 2^ fathoms on it at low water, bearing nearly N.N.E. a quarter of
a mile. With this exception vessels can safely work in by keeping between the
beacons. Each beacon is placed on a projecting spit of sand or mud in 2 fathoms
low water spring tides.
SUNDA STRAIT. — A small coral shoal is reported by Commander Justice, of
her Majesty's ship Philomel, from information received from Lieutenant Melvill,
of his Netherlands Majesty's navy, attached to the hydrographic office at Batavia.
The shoal lies N. 74° W. (?) from the Button ]| miles'; N. 28° E. from the south
point of Thwart-the-way ; and N.52° £. from the north point of the same island.
When on the shoal the south point of Tulphin Islarrd (?) is in line with the north
point of Pulo Bessey. The shoal, which is very small, has 2^ fathoms on its
shoalest part, and near and around, it 12 and 16 fathoms.
BANCA STRAIT. — A rock is reported to have been seen by tlie captain of the
Danish brig Queen Caroline, on October 13, 1845, 3 feet high, and 30 yards in
circumference. Fourth Point bearing S. | W. 8^ miles; Mintow Point N. by W.
f W. 9 miles ; and Tan Pooni ]\. E. 8 miles.
CASPAR STRAIT. — The barque Columbian, of Liverpool, was lost in April,
1845, by striking on a rock to the northward of this strait. Mr. Wakem, her
commander, reports that just after having a cast of 17 fathoms the ship struck, but
without stopping. Having immediately anchored the damage was found so consi-
derable that the crew were obliged to abandon the ship. Bearings taken five minutes
after anchoring were Caspar Island E. by S. and Tree Island S. E. by E. ^ E.
SINGAPORE STRAIT SHOAL.— Notice of this shoal was published in the
Canton Register of 2 1st of October, 1845, by the request of Admiral Sir T.
Cochrane.
Magnetic bearings from the shoal North Extreme of Bintang I. S. 89° E.
Little Bintang Hill S. 13° E.
BarbucitHill N.55°W.
Pedra Branca N. 16° W.
VOL. II. 4
62 * SUPPLEMENT,
The shoal has 2| fathoms on it at low water spring tides, and although recently
discovered, is the direct route of ships passing through the south channel.
The Sunken Rock on which the Stork was wrecked lies something less
than a mile outside the Romania Islands. The bearings when on the rock are,
Barbucit Hill W. by N. i N. ; Inner Point N. by W, ^ W.; Extremes of the three
islands off Romania Point W. ^ N. and W.N.W.
DANGERS IN THE CHINA SEA.— Until the southern portion of this sea is
minutely surveyed we may continually expect reports of new dangers ; and although
in a spot so studded with shoals many must necessarily be merely the repetitions of
the same dangers in different positions, we think it the safer mode to keep alive the
vigilance of the navigator by naming them when reported.
Mr. Eldad, of the ship Cacique, reports an extensive reef in lat. 10° 17' N. and
Ion. 114° 24' E., and a sand bank in lat. 10° 41' N. Ion. 114° 29' E. ; the latter
being very near the position assigned to South Island, and its shoals in the chart are
doubtless identical or connected with them.
Another shoal is reported by Mr. M. B. Walker, of the brig Vanguard, in lat.
7° 32' N. and Ion. 109° 35' E. On this shoal he had several casts of 14 fathoms,
and then no bottom with 30 j sounded half a mile in 14 fathoms, S.W. and N.E.
TINGY ISLANDS. — The following remarks by Captain Ross, of the Honour-
able Company's steam-ship Phlegethon, may be useful to vessels who find them-
selves in the neighbourhood of these islands.
The Phlegethon anchored off the S.W. part of Pulo Tingy on the 14th of August,
184-5, and found both the watering places had dried up. On the following day
anchored on the west side of High Island, bearing N.N.W. 5^ miles from Pulo
Tingy. Fount! here three springs of clear fresh water, the principal one on the
N.VV. point of the island, to the southward of a small patch of mangrove jungle.
The following bearing^s were taken from the Phlegethon when at anchor.
Extremes of the island, N. ^ E. to S.S.E. | E.
The best watering place, N.N.E. ^ E.
Two smaller ditto, N.E. by E. and E.N.E.
Regular soundings were found between this island and the mainland, there being
8^ fathoms, mud, in mid channel, decreasing gradually to the eastward and westward
to 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. There are two dangers not marked in the charts in
general use. One is a rock, above water, with small detached rocks round it, and
bearing from High Island E. i S. about 2 miles. The other is a reef about a mile off
the north |)art of Pulo Tingy, and having deep water between it and the coral that
lines the beach. In fine weather the reef is visible only at low water, spring tides;
but has heavy breakers on it in the N.E. monsoon.
ROCKS NEAR TAMBELAN.— Mr. Alexander Rodger, of the barque Ellen,
gives the following account of a rocky patch, on which the ship, by touching once,
lost part of her false keel, and had her rudder nearly unshipped. He examined the
spot, in a l)oat, and found the shoal to be about 100 yards square, and to consist of
sharp pointed rocks, having on them from 5 fathoms to 9 feet. He places it in lat.
0° 40' N., and Ion. 107° 34' E., the peak of the highest Tambelan bearing N. 1° E.
20 miles in a line with Puro Jarrang. — Singapore Free Press.
BORNEO. — There is a rock awash 3 miles North of Cape Sipang, of which
ships approaching the entrance of the Sarawak should be aware, as by the most
SUPPLEMENT. 63
recent chart there appear to be 6 and 7 fathoms water in its immediate neigh-
bourhood.
BANK NEAR THE CAGAYANES.~The ship Sultana, J. Wadge, Master,
accompanied by the barque Flora, report a bank, several miles in extent, to the
northward of the Cagayanes. The Sultana s boat being sent to examine the shoal,
found the sounding decrease from no bottom at 35 fathoms to 1 1, 7, 5, 4, 3, 3, 3, and
one cast of 1^ ; from the shoalest part the bank appeared to be about 3 miles in
extent, but Mr. Wadge afterwards remarks, that seen from aloft it appeared to
extend many miles to the southward, and might even reach the Cagayanes. From
the shoalest spot in l^ fathoms, the boat steered E. i)y S. and had three casts of
3 fathoms; then steering North about 100 yards, had 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, and no o-round
at 35 fathoms. He places the shoalest spot in lat. 9° 59' N. and Ion. 121° 24' E.,
by chronometers which he found going well on reaching Batavia. This may pro-
bably be connected, or identical, with the Golconda Shoal. — Hong Kono- Reoister
Sept. 9, 1845. *
MANILA BAY. — A shoal is reported to exist on the southern side of Cavallo
Island, and is said to project from the island in a S.E.iE. direction, about f of a
mile.— iYa«^. 3Iag. 1846, p. 379.
Sailing directions from Hong Kong to Natnoa, 1845, by Captain
R. Coliinson, C.B. R.N.
TAMTOO. — Good anchorage will be found on the north side of Tamtoo in 6 Tamtoo.
fathoms, but vessels must bear in mind that the water shoals to 2f fathoms, 3 cables"
length from the Joss House upon the north shore. The island is 810 feet above the
sea, and 3 miles in circumference; it is separated from the main by the Foo-tow-mun,
which is 1^ cables across, and has 3 fathoms in it. Rocks lie off both shores in the
passage, and tliere is a sunken rock bearing S. 49° E. from the north point of Tam-
too. When upon it the west end of Steep Island (the first island to the north-
eastward) just shews clear of the foot of a remarkably bold bluff, this side of it,
bearing N. 28° E. There is a ruined fort on the first point of Tamtoo, to the
eastward of the Pass, and the southern point of the island is a low peninsula, the
distance between which and Waglan (the easternmost of the group. South of Hong wagian.
Kong) is 3 miles bearing S. by E.
From the Foo-tow-mun to Steep Islet the distance is ]| miles. The latter is 4 stcq) uiet.
cables' lengths from the shore. One and a half miles North of it is Triple Islet, with
a rock N.W. of it. On the main, between Triple and Steep Islets, is an indentation
in the coast, with 8 fathoms of water in it, but it is exposed to the easterly winds
and swell.
THE NINE PIN GROUP lies 3 miles east of the Foo-tow-mun. The two largest Nine p„.
are the two western isles which lie north and south of each other, the channel between ^'""""p-
them being 2 cables wide. South Islet is 400 feet above the sea, the highest part
being towards the south end. On the S.W. side is a small islet, and there is a
peaked rock off its north point. On the North Islet, the hills are nearly all of the
same height, and near its northern end is a remarkable cleft, nearly severing the
island ; there is also a small islet on its S.W. face.
The Nine Pin lies to the eastward of the latter nearly one mile ; it assumes the
appearance its name indicates when seen in a N.W. or N.E. direction, otherwise it
is liable to mislead. Close to it, on the N.W. side, is a smaller islet, and there are
detached rocks on its N.E. and West sides. N. 42° W. from it 9 cables is a Hat rock,
64
SUPPLEMENT.
Sunken Rock.
Flat Islet.
nearly level witli the water's edge, with a reef which breaks at low water, not quite
a cable's length S.E. of it.
S. 9° W. fi-om the Nine Pin, nearly 7 cables, is a rock, with 1 foot water upon it
at low water, sjiring tides. When on it the South part of the South Nine Pin bears
W 2° S. being in line with the shoulder of the hill to the right of the highest part
of Tamtoo, and the right extreme of the rock on the north side of the North Islet
is in a line with the summit of a larger island, called Shelter Island, in the bay to
the northward, bearing N. 49° W.
The channel between the Nine Pin Group and Steep Island is not quite 2 miles
wide, with a depth of 17 to 15 fathoms. There, upon the change of the moon in
May, 1845, the flood tide ran to the S.S.E. and the ebb to the S.S.W. the
former at the rate of 0-3 knot and the latter 0-5 knot per hour.
Seven cables to the northward of Triple Island is Flat Islet, and between it and the
main, 8 cables distant, is a cluster of low rocks, part of which are always above water.
Port Shelter.
The Hunch,
back.
Shelter Island.
Reef.
Hebe Haven.
CENTRAL ISLANDS.— To the North of Flat Islet 9 cables, are the Central
Islands, which are 3^ miles from North to South, and separated from each other by a
narrow channel, in which there is only one foot at low water. Offthe South point 1^
cables is a peaked rock with a rock awash at high water E. 3° N. of it, rather more
than 1 cable. On the western side of the Central Islands is Port Shelter, which extends
5^ miles in a northerly direction, and is separated from the southern portion of iMirs Bay
by an isthmus, 1^ miles wide. Over this end of the bay is a remarkably high peak, the
Hunchback, 2,310 feet above the sea, which, with the sharp peak at the western side
of the entrance to Mirs Bay, form the leading marks by which this portion of the
coast may be recognized from the south-eastward.
The first island to the N.W. of Flat Island is Shelter Island, which is about
f of a mile in length, and distant from the Central Islands 1 mile. Vessels,
for reasons which will be given hereafter, should keep on the eastern side of it.
North of Shelter 2 miles is Sharp Island, 4 cables distant from Central Island.
Good anchorage may be found between the two in 7 or 8 fathoms. Nearly mid-way
between Sharp and Shelter Islands is a rocky patch, which has only 9 feet on its
shoalest part. From it the opening between the two central islands bears East, and
the summit of Flat Island S.E. f S., being in a line with the N.W. end of the North
Islet of Nine Pin Group ; also the West end of Shelter bears S. by W.
Rather more than a mile to the westward of Sharp Island is Long Point, and
between the two is good anchorage, except in southerly winds. Small vessels may
pass through this channel and North of Central Islands into Rocky Harbour.
To the westward of Long Point is Hebe Haven, the entrance to which is rather
more than a cable across, and the depth inside 3 fathoms.
The most convenient anchorage for a large ship will be found to the N.W. of
Shelter Island in 7^ and 9 fathoms, and by passing within cables of tiie north
point of it, the rocky patch which has been mentioned above will be avoided.
Southerly, one cable, from the west point of Shelter Island, there is a rock awash
at low water ; and there is a patch of 2f fathoms 5 cables west of it. Flat Island
bears from it E.S.E., and the north point of Shelter, N.E. ^E. There is also a
fathom patch bearing W.S.W. from the south point of Shelter, and N.W. by W.
from Flat Island ; and another with 3 fathoms on it VV. by N.;^ N. from Flat
Island, and S. E. i S. from the west point of Shelter.
The distance between Shelter Island and the Main to the westward being not
quite 4 cables, will, with these dangers, render it prudent to keep to the eastward of it
until past its northern point.
I w
SUPPLEMENT. 65
ROCKY HARBOUR is formed by Central Islands on the West, High Island Rocky Har.
on the North, and Town, Basalt, and Bluff Islands to the East and S.E. '"'"'■
The south entrance, between Bluff and Central Islands, is one mile across. On
the east side of Central, 2 cables from the shore, is Bay Island, which is low and
flat, and midway between it and the north end of Bluff Island is a rocky patch with
only 3 feet at low water. When upon it, the west point of Bluff Island is in one
with the summit of North Island of Nine Pin Group, and the southern summit of
Bay Island bears N. 67° W . The east end of North Island in line with the west
point of Bluff will keep you clear to the west of it ; * and when a remarkable
pyramid rock on the north side of Basalt Island opens clear of the north end of
Bluff Island, you are to the northward of it.
There is another patch of 3 fathoms 7 cables to the northward of it. Bay Island
summit bears from it S. 67° W. and Pyramid Rock S. 49° E., and a small islet on
the north shore N. 81° E. 3 cables.
Anchorage in the Northerly monsoon will be found to the westward of Green Islet Anchorage.
and in the neighbourhood of a cove, where there is a village and a magistrate. There
is a depth of 6 fathoms inside the cove, but the space is confined, owing to sunken
rocks. In the S.W. monsoon vessels will find good shelter to the N.W.of Bay Island.
To the eastward of the three-feet rock at the entrance of the harbour is foul
ground with several casts of three fathoms. Small and handy vessels may, however,
pass through between Basalt and Town Islands.
Basalt Island lies 4 cables S.E. of Bluff Island, the depth being 5 fathoms Basalt island.
between them ; the former is f of a mile long, and rises to the height of 572 feet ;
the southern faces of both it and Blufl' Island are very precipitous.
Town Island lies to the northward of Basalt Island, the channel between them Town island.
being 4 cables wide ; it is, however, obstructed by three islets and a rock awash at
high water.
The channel between Town and High Islands is in some places barely one cable High island.
wide, and has 4 fathoms water. The latter is 7^ miles in circumference, and is 910
feet above the sea. It is separated from the main by a shallow channel.
To the eastward of Town Island is Hole Island, 304 feet above the sea, and Hole island.
N.W. (iV.E. by the chart) of it are two low islets.
From Hole Island the land trends north-easterly to Cone Islands, from which it is
distant 2^ miles. It is not quite a cable's length from the shore, and to the west-
ward of it is a bay 3^ cables wide and 7 deep, which will afford shelter in the
N.E. monsoon.
North of Cone Island is a bay 1^ miles across at the entrance, within which are two
islets and a rock ; but the bay is open to the eastward, and exposed to a long swell.
Sharp Peak, which is 1,540 feet above the sea, overlooks this bay, and bears from
the Nine Pin N. I VV.f 9 miles.
M IRS BAY is 5^ miles across at the entrance ; its extent northerly is 1 1 miles, and Mirs Bay.
in an east and west direction 18.
Gow-tow-pyah is a rock 90 feet above the sea, situated near the centre of the bay Gow.tow.pyah
at the entrance. 5^ cables from it, S. 60° W., is a rocky ledge, part of which is wenGow.
always uncovered. The islet of West Gow lies 1^ miles to the S.W. of this
j)atch ; it is 80 feet above the sea, and 5 cables from the point under Sharp Peak.
Off this point are two islets, and the coast takes a sudden turn to the westward,
forming a bay which will give good shelter from south-westerly winds in 8 fathoms.
W.4°S. from Gow-tow-pyah is the termination of the mainland in a northerly
* This mark will barely clear the danger according to the Chart. t N. | E. by Chart.
66
SUPPLEMENT.
Crass Island.
I'ort Island.
Lonj Harbour.
.Tones Cove.
BluB' Head.
Nob and Flat
Reefs.
Busli Reef.
direction. Grass Island lies 3 cables to the northward of it, but the channel is
obstructed by rocks, which extend nearly a cable from each shore ; there is, how-
ever, a depth of three fathoms a cable wide.
Grass Island is 1^ miles from North to South, and half a mile from East to West.
3^ cables from its eastern side is North Gow, a large black rock, with a reef awash
at high water N. 40° W. 4 cables from it; sunken rocks extend westerly from the
reef.
To the northward of Grass Island is Port Island, the distance between the two
being 7 cables. The reef just mentioned is 5^ cables from the S.E. point of the
latter, which is 1| miles in circumference, and 430 feet above the sea. Its eastern
■» point is narrow, and projects 3 cables from the body of the island. On the north
side of it is a good watering place.
Long Harbour extends to the southward 5 miles from Port Island, and is formed
by Grass Island and Isthmus Head, the distance between which and the entrance is
7 cables. Both shores are steep until near the S.W. point of the former, where
there is a shoal patch ^ a cable from the shore to the northward of a cove ; and
sunken rocks extend a cable from its S.W. point.
Having passed Grass Island, the harbour widens to 1^ miles, and then gradually
decreases towards its southern extremity, where it divides in two. 4 fathoms
water will be found within half a mile of the head of the bays.
To the westward of Isthmus Head is Jones Cove, which extends one mile in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and is 3 cables wide, with adepth of 5 and 6 fathoms.
It is, however, as well as Long Harbour, exposed to a considerable pitch from the
N.N.E. On the western side of the cove are three islets, and to the northward of
the largest, which is Flat Islet, are two rocks awash at high water. The summit
of Port Island bears from them N. 53° E., and the north end of Grass Island
N. 83° £.
The distance between Port Island and Bluff Head, the eastern extreme of the
opposite mainland, is 1^ miles. The land trends from thence S.W. by W. 7g- miles
to White Head, forming a sound 7 cables wide, with the shores steep to. On the
north side, 2 miles from Bluff Head, is a small cove, and 3f miles from the same
is Nob Reef, with a flat reef 2 cables to the S.W. of it. On the northern shore,
opposite to them, is another cove.
2^^ miles beyond Nob Reef is Bush Reef, and North of which, 3 cables, is
Harbour Island, with a depth of 14 and 15 fathoms* between them. The main-
land to the southward is 9 cables distant, but the 3-fathoms line extends 4 cables
from the shore.
At White Head, which is a peninsula, the sound separates into three branches ;
North-west
Arm.
the western arm extends
3^ miles
further, the water shoaling gradually from
5 fathoms off White Head to the bottom of the bay, where there is a road over a pass
in the hills 920 feet above the sea, to the village of Cowloon, in Hong Ivong Bay ;
the distance from high water to high water on either side being 3 miles.
In the centre of the channel, 2 miles above White Head, is a reef, which is covered
at high water, bearing N. &2° E. from a waterfall on the northern shore : the channel
here is 4 cables wide, with a depth of 3 fathoms.
It is high water on full and change days at 9 o'clock, and the extreme rise and
fall experienced was 6 feet 4 inches, but at the neap tides the water remains very
nearly at the same level.
The north-western arm also extends 3j miles in this direction. Three quarters of a
mile from White Head is Central Islet, and on the north shore are three islets, with
anchorage between them and the main.
* 11 and 12 in the Chart.
SUPPLEMENT. 67
The north-eastern arm, Port Plover, would in all probability be found the most North-east
eligible place to ride out a typhoon. It extends 2^ miles to the eastward of Harbour f\'^,\"'^ ^°"
Island, with depths of from 6 to 4 fathoms.
The Hunchback rises immediately over White Head, and is very precipitous on
this face.
N.E. by N.,* 2f miles from Port Island, is Round Island, the easternmost of an islands in Mirs
extensive group of islands in the N.VV. corner of Mirs Bay, the largest of which are ^'^•
Double, Crescent, and Crooked Islands. Double Island is the southernmost, and
lies 61 cables to the N.E. of Bluff Head. The channel which separates it from the
main to the westward is large enough for boats only. That between it and Crescent
Island is one cable wide, with from 4 to 7 fathoms. Between Crescent and Crooked
Islands the narrowest part of the channel is 2 cables wide, with 10 and 12 fathoms.
The eastern end of Crooked Island is a remarkable peaked head.
The mainland lies H miles to the northward of Crooked Island, with a depth of
from 9 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom, and the extent of the bay westerly from
Crooked Island is 5 miles, the water gradually shoaling.
On the west side of Crooked Island is a village, and opposite to it a good
harbour. A very secure basin is also formed to the southward of it by Crescent
and Double Islands, the entrance into which, upon the north side, is 3 cables
wide ; within it there is a depth of 7 fathoms water.
The northern iiead of Mirs Bay is steep to, and there is a remarkable peaked
rock 3 cables from the shore, opposite Crooked Island.
The Island of Peng-chow lies in the N.E. corner of the bay, bearing north 4^
miles from Gow-tow-pyah ; it is 3 miles in circumference, and 148 feet above the
sea. The distance between it and the nearest point on the mainland to the east-
ward is rather more than a mile, forming a convenient harbour, sheltered from all
winds. The geological features are totally different from the adjacent land, being
alluvial, shale stones forming its beaches. E.N.E. from it is a remarkable conical
peak, 753 feet above the sea. Under it is the village of Namoh.
Anchorage in the N.E. monsoon will be found upon the eastern side of Mirs
Bay to the southward of Peng-chow. The hills at theS.E. point rise to the height
of 1,200 feet, and off its southern extreme is a small islet which bears from
Gow-tow-pyah S. 77° E. 4^ miles. To the westward of it are some rocks a cable's
length from the shore, and the first point to the northward of it is perforated. The islet
bears from the Nine Pin N. 34° E. 13 miles, and Single Island bears from it S. 75° E.
Along the coast which trends easterly towards Tooneang are two sandy bays.
In the western bay is Coast Islet 4 cables from the shore ; it has a depth of 4 fathoms
inside of it.
THE TOONEANG GROUP consists of 8 islets, including Single Island and Tooneang
Acongchow. The northernmost island is the largest, which is 5 miles in circum- ™"'''
ference, and the summit rises like a cone to the height of 950 feet. Off its western
extreme are two islets ; the nearest. Net Islet, is conically shaped, and at low water
there is only one foot between it and Tooneang. Peaked Rock lies 2^ cables to
the westward of it, with depths of 4 and 5 fathoms rocky bottom between them ; it
appears like two islets connected by a shingly beach. N. 52° W. from it is a ledge
of rocks, the north end of which will always shew ; there is no passage for a vessel
between them.
The J;inks in the north-east monsoon lie to the southward of Net Island and
Peaked Rock opposite a fort on Tooneang, where there is a depth of 9 fathoms, but
the ground is foul within 2 cables of the fort.
* N.W. by N. by Chart.
68. • SUPPLEMENT.
San-mun. Immediately to the southward of Tooneang are three islets, forming with it a good
harbour sheltered from all points except from W.N.W. to S.W. by S., called by the
Chinese San-mun. The southern islet, Flat Islet, is Smiles in circumference and
270 feet above the sea: the channel between it and Cone Islet to the northward is
not quite 2 cables wide with 9 and 10 fathoms within it. Between Cone Islet and
Tooneang the passage is the same width, but is crooked, and has only 2^ fathoms.
The best anchorage will be found ofFthe south point of Cone Island in 7 and 8 fathoms.
During the prevalence of south-westerly winds the best anchorage will be on the
N.E. side of Tooneang in 9 and 10 fathoms opposite a bay.
The channel between Flat and Single Islands is if miles wide; the latter is even
topped, and about 200 feet above the sea.
Acongchow. ACONGCHOW is a remarkable rock, lying 6 cables to the N.E. of Single Island,
with 15^ fathoms between them. With it in a line with the S.E. point of Single
Island, bearing S. 30 VV. 1 mile is a 16-feet rock. The cone upon Cone Islet bears
N. 59 W. from it, and is in line with a remarkable gap on Tooneang ; it rises so
abruptly that there was a difficulty in finding it.
N. 48° E. from the summit of Tooneang is Middle Rock, which is just awash at
high water. The bearings from it are Acongchow S. 10° W. ; Point island (ofFthe
east point of Bias Bay) N. 20° E. ; Pyramid Island in Bias Bay N. 32 W. 4 miles.
S. 31° W.* from it 3 cables is a reef which breaks at low water. When on it the
east end of the Flat Islet on the east side of Pyramid is in line with Pillar Islet
beyond it bearing IN. 20° W.
Channel be- The chauuel between Tooneang and the west point of Bias Bay is 1^ miles wide ;
Ln^wIrpoTn"^ ^^^^ shores are steep to, with the exception of the reef already mentioned lying off
of Bias Bay. Peaked Rock, near Tooneang, and a rocky ledge stretching south-westerly from the
first point east of a remarkably white rock on the north shore. The hills upon this
side are 2,630 feet above the sea.
Pyramid From Tooucang, Pyramid Island (so called from the rocks at the south extremity)
bears N. by E. 6 miles ; the distance between it and the west point of Bias Bay is
3 miles, with a depth of 9 and 10 fathoms. About it are six islets ; — three on the
west, two on the north, and one on the east side. The island is If miles long, and
is nearly separated in two places. The highest part of it, 330 feet above the sea, is
near the south end. Anchorage will be found on either side of it, according to
the monsoon. The north islet off it is remarkable for two square pillars upon its
southern side.
bouT"^ ^"' TYPOONG HARBOUR entrance bears Westf from the north end of Pyramid
Island 6 miles. On the northern shore, as you enter is a smooth conical hill, ofT
which a shoal commences, extending 5 cables from that shore ; the southern shore,
which is bold, must therefore be kept on board. Vessels drawing more than 2^
fathoms should not proceed farther to the westward than the third point on that
side, as the bottom of the bay is shoal. The walled town of Typoong is upon the
north side. This harbour will be found a very secure anchorage, except with an
easterly wind, when the anchorage under Pyramid should be preferred.
Middle Group. One mile and a half to the northward of Pyramid Island is Middle Group, con-
sisting of six islets. Green islet, the southernmost, has an islet ofT its western end ;
the channel between it and Pyramid is free from danger, the only obstruction being
a rock nearly level with the water's edge near the "latter. Reef Islet lies f of a
mile north of it, and to the S.E. of it is a reef on which the sea breaks at low
water. The centre of it bears from Green Island N. 18° E., and from the summit
* S. 51° W. by Chart. f W. i S. by Chart.
Island.
SUPPLEMENT. G9
of Reef Island S. 30° E. There is also another rock awash at low water, North
3 cables from Reef Island : when upon it, the summit of Red Islet bears £. 7° S.
And there is a third N. 4° W. li miles from Reef Islet, and JN. 40° VV. from Red
Islet.
Harbour Group, consisting of nine islets, is not quite a mile from Middle Group. Harbour
The southernmost are the Twins, two small islets, to the N.E. of which, 2 cables, is Group.
Shoal Island, having rocky ground extending N.N.W. 3 cables from it, in some
parts of which there are only 3 feet water. Shoal Islet is separated from Narrow
Island by a channel 3| cables wide. Should this channel be used, the shore of the
latter should be kept on board to avoid the shoal just mentioned. Marrow Island is
7 cables from North to South, and 2 from East to West. Round Island lies rather
more than 2 cables North of it, with a depth of 5 or 6 fathoms ; to the North of it 2
cables is a flat rock, nearly level with the water's edge, which is steep to.
N. by W. 6 cables from Narrow Island is North Cone, a conical rock surrounded
by reefs.
Vessels wishing to anchor to the westward of Narrow Island will find this, or
the channel between Tree-a-top and Cone Islet, the best to enter by. Tree-a-top
lies westerly 2^ cables from the Twins, and Cone Islet is West of it 5 cables.
Big Island lies to the westward of Cone, and has a small islet with a flat rock to
the northward of it. On its North side, N. 39° E. from this flat rock, is a reef which
shews only at low water spring tides. When upon it the highest part of Narrow
Island bears S. 58° E., and Nob Reef N. 57° E.
To the N.W. of Big Island 4 cables is Sand Patch, a low rock surrounded by
sand. In the channel between the two are 3| fathoms water : On the South side of
Big Island also there is a rock level with high water.
The channel to the westward, between Big Island and the main, is 7 cables wide;
there is a reef nearly in mid-channel, bearing S. 75° W. from Cone Island, and N.
32° W. from Green Island. The Bay runs back westerly from Big Island nearly
miles, the general depth of water being less than 3 fathoms.
Two and a half miles N.N.W. from Narrow Island is Low Island, which is 2 miles
from the North side of the bay.
Ofi' the eastern point of Bias Bay are several rocks, the channel between which e. side of
and the point is not safe, but that to the westward of the rocks, and between it and ^'^ ^"y-
the rock S.E. from Point Island, may be used : it is 8 cables wide, and has a depth
of 4^ and 5 fathoms.
Point Island is 8 cables' length from North to South, and 5 from East to West.
Besides the rock 3 cables to the S.E. of it, mentioned above, there is another awasii
at high water 6 cables to the N.N.E. of it. The bearings from it are, the summit
of Pyramid Island, S. 58° W., and the rock S.E. of Point Island, S. 12° E.
From Point Island the coast trends North 1^ miles. The first islet on this shore
is Triple Island, 2^ miles from Point Island : anchorage in a N.E. monsoon will
be found between tl>e two. Triple Island is 6 cables from the mainland, with
a depth of 3 fathoms in the channel : one cable's length from its western* shore
is a small rock, which is nearly level with the water.
Six and a half miles North of Triple Island is Tsang-chow, a low flat island
with a small one S.E. of it. The channel between it and the main is onef mile
wide, with 2fathoms water. A reef of rocks extends from both sliores.
Northward of Tsang-chow the coast takes a turn to the eastward, forming the bar- Fan.i0.k0n3
hour of Fan-lo-kong, the entrance to which is l^ miles wide, with a depth of 4
fathoms. At the distance of 4 miles the water shoals to 3 fathoms, and the bottom
of the bay is 2 miles farther. The village of Fanlo is upon the North side of the
* Eastern by the Chart. t Half a mile by the Chart.
VOL. II. 5
70
SUPPLEMENT,
harbour, which will probably be found the best anchorage in Bias Bay to resort to
in case of a typhoon.
Pagoda Island. PagodaIsland bears fromTsang-chow, N.W. by VV.* 4 miles : the depth of water
varies from 4| to 2^ fathoms, shoaling towards the former. It is 3 cables from the
shore, and in the channel there is 9 feet water : to the W.S.W. of the island 3 cables
are some rocks.
Mendoza
Island.
Tslncoe.Island,
Fokai Point.
Harlem B
ay.
Pauk Pjab.
Currents.
Pedra Branca.
MENDOZA ISLAND bears from Point Island, S. 59° E. 8 miles. It is 2f miles
in circumference, and will afford shelter from a S.W. wind upon its northern side.
On the West side of it is an island separated from it by a channel one cable wide,
in which there is 9 feet.
The island of Tsin-coe liesGcables to the North ofit, the depth of water between
the two being 12 fathoms. Near the centre there is a remarkable cleft.
From Mendoza Island to Fokai Point the distance is S^f miles : Between the
two, and 6 cables from the latter, is Middle Rock, 10 or 12 feet above the sea ; it
may be passed on either side, and a good berth in a northerly monsoon will be
found to the northward of Observatory Islet, where a vessel may choose her own
depth of water,
HARLEM BAY.— S. 57° W., 3 cables from Observatory Islet, is a rocky patch
of 3|^ fathoms water; when upon it, the South end of Fokai Point bears S. 40° E.
Observatory Islet is flat topped, 70 feet above the sea, with a ledge of rocks
which cover at high water, extending 3 cables north-easterly from it. On the north-
western foot of the Fokai hills is a fort, with a tall chimney on the hill behind it.
North of the fort is a creek, which extends along a sandy isthmus, and into which
the junks can get at high water.
On the summit of the Fokai hills is an artificial mound, 670 feet above the sea,
and upon the hill over the South point is a large fort.
The point is connected with the main by a long sandy isthmus, on the East side
of which are three rocky islets, E. by N. from the northernmost of these islets is a
reef, which shews at low water ; the East end of Fokai Point bears from it S, 16° W.
and Pauk Pyah S. 67° E.
From Fokai Point the coast trends N. 34° E., and at the distance of 9 miles is
Coast Islet, lying 4 cables from the shore : shoal water over a rocky bottom extends
from it 6 cables southerly, to the southward of which, and close to a flat rocky head,
is an opening, a cable wide, into an extensive sound ; in the channel there are 5 and
6 fathoms, the entrance into which bears N. 7.3° VV. from Si-ting, On the southern
side of it is a high conical peak (Harlem Peak) 2,100 feet above the sea. S. 25" W.
from Coast Islet is a sunken rock, from which Si-ting bears E. 1°N. (?) 6 miles, and
Harlem Peak N. 50° VV.
PAUK PYAH is a low flat rock bearing from the summit of Fokai S. 83° E. 7
miles. S. 12° W. from it 2^ miles are two sunken rocks, from which the highest
part of Fokai Peak bears N. 62° \V.; the fort at the point N. 74° W. ; the summit
of Mendoza W. 1° N. ; these rocks rise abruptly from 1 2 fathoms.
In the month of April, 1845, the current in the neighbourhood sets constantly
to the westward, increasing its velocity with the flood tide, but never exceeding 1
knot per hour.
PEDRA BRANCA, — The foUowino; bearings of Pedra Branca were observed.
From the summit of Mendoza, S. 32° 20' E. From the Pauk Pyah, S. 20° 50' E.
From Tysammee Mound (the highest peak on the East side of Honghae Bay),
* W.N.W. by Chart. f 2J miles by the Chart,
SUPPLEMENT. 7 1
S. 28° 57' W. which will place it in hit. 22° 19' 12" N., and Ion. (assuming Sir E.
Belcher's Ion. of Victoria to be 114° 10' 48'''') 116° 6' 9^ E. When bearing North it
appears separated into two rocks, and the summit is white ; it is bold to approach,
having 20 fathoms close to the outside, and 19 or 18 on the INorth side, decreasing
to 13 fathoms in the neighbourhood of the Pauk Pyah.
TUNG-TING and SI-TING are two rocky islets, about 50 feet above the sea, Tung-ting and
lying S. 39° E. and N. 39° W. from each other, 1^ miles apart. There are sunken ^'-''"°-
and detached rocks surrounding them, and the depth of water in their vicinity is
9 fathoms. Si-ting bears from the summit of Fokai N. G4° E. 11 miles, and from
Pauk Pyah N. 26° W. 6'- miles.
N. 54° W. from Si-ting is a rocky patch, upon which the sea sometimes breaks : Rocky Patch.
Hat Island bears from it N. 48° E. ; Harlem Peak N. 82° W. Hat Island, in a
line with the S.E. end of the West point of Shoal Bay (an inlet North of Honghae
Island), will carry you to the northward of it.
There is another reef, Single Rock, which breaks only at low water or Avhen Reef,
there is a heavy sea, bearing N. 03° E. from Si-ting 3 miles. Upon it Tung-ting bears
S. 35° W. ; Hat Island N. 13° E. ; Harlem Peak W. 2° N.
HONGHAE BAY. — I recommend vessels not to pass to the westward of Tung-
ting or Si-ting, nor into the N.W. part of Honghae Bay, as they will find a heavier
sea there than outside.
The island of Honghae bears N. 50° E. 8^ miles from Si-ting; it is 5 cables in Honghae.
length from East to West, and 3 from North to South, and will aflbrd shelter on its
northern side during southerly winds.
S. 20° E. from its summit are two rocks, which are visible at low water; they lie
3 cables from the shore, and from them the S.W. point of Honghae bears N. 65° W.
being in line with the South end of Inside Island ; and the East point of Honghae
is in one with the highest part of the western point of Shoal Bay, bearing
N. 13° W.
Shoal Bay lies 3 miles to the N.N.E. of Honghae; the entrance to it is shoai Bay.
2 miles across, and within the heads less than 3 fathoms will be found. In the
N.E, part is an inlet, with 6 feet of water only over the bar at low water, which
communicates with Hei-che-chin Bay. By report it is navigable for small boats only.
Hat Island is a peaked rock, 2f miles to the westward of Honghae; the trans- Hat island,
lation of its Chinese name is Fowl's Heart, which it more resembles than a hat ; there
are detached rocks about it.
In.side Island lies 5 miles to the N.W. of Honghae; it is one mile from North inside isiami.
to South, and but little more than a cable wide. Oti' its S.W. end 3 cables are
detached rocks : in the bays, East and West of it, no more that 2^ fathoms will be
found, and there is generally a long ground swell rolling in.
West, 3 miles from Inside Island, is the embouchure of a large stream, but with
only 6 feet over the bar at low water.
To the eastward of the East point of Shoal Bay, 7 cables, is a rocky ledge, part of
which will always shew.
The entrance to Tysammee Inlet bears N. 81° E. 9 miles from Honghae: the Jy^^^"''"''
channel is 5 cables wide and has 2^ fathoms at low water. The northern shore is
shoal to, and near the entrance, 5 cables from the beacii, are some rocks whicli are
awash at spring tides. Tysammee Mound bears from them S. 20° E. and the low
conical hill at the back of the town, S. 73° W. The southern edge of the channel
is confined by a sand spit, on which is 3 feet.
The North end of tlie sand spit, under Entrance Hill (the hill on the South side
of the inlet as you enter) in one with the conical hill upon the North shore at the
72 SUPPLEMENT.
back of the town, bearing N. 83° E. will lead you in rather upon the South side of
the channel.
The West extremity of the sand spit upon the South side of the entrance is 1^
miles from the shore, and the North end of it bears West from Entrance Head.
The bank commences under Tysammee Mound 3|- miles N.W. of the S.E. point
of Honghae Bay. Tysammee Mound is the northern and higher of the two
peaks on the point: it bears from Honghae S. 81° E. 9f miles, and is 960 feet
above the sea.
Guat Island. GOAT ISLA^^D lies S.E., 3 miles from the eastern point of Honghae Bay, and
is the southernmost and largest of the group of islets here; on its N.W. side is a
very good roadstead in the northern monsoon : the channel to the North between
it and the main is not navigable. The walled town of Tsieching is rather more than
a mile inland from the beach to the North of Goat Island.
Beefisicts. Three miles S.E. by E. from Goat Island, are the Rl^EF ISLETS ; in using the
channel between, care must be taken to avoid a sunken rock, bearing N. 87° E.
]i miles from the summit of Goat Island, and N. 53' W. from the North end of Reef
Islets. The southern islet is the largest of the group. Reefs extend one cable
southerly from its East extreme. Vessels may pass between them and the middle
reef, which lies If miles to the northward, the depth of the water being 7 or 8
fathoms, but must bear in mind that the reefs extend more than 2 cal^les northerly
from the Reef Islets ; the northern rock bearing W. ^ S. from Che-lang-hiau. It is
not advisable to pass to the North of Middle Reef.
che-iang-hiau. CHE-LANG-HIAU bears N. 75° E. o| miles from Reef Islets ; the southern
end of it is about 80 feet above the sea, and is separated from the main by a rocky
channel.
On the point to the N.N.W. of it is a fort, and to the West of it is a small bay,
which will afford shelter in the N.E. monsoon ; there is a sunken rock, having one
foot on it at low water, bearing N.W. by W. 5^ cables from the fort. From it the
summit of Che-lang-hiau bears S. 52° E., and is in a line with the southern rock off
the Fort Point, and Flat Rock bears S. 48° W. The latter lies W. by N. l^ miles
from Che-lang-hiau, the distance between it and the rocks off the West point of Fort
Bay is 5^ cables, and between them is a sunken rock, bearing from Flat Rock
N. 34° W. and from the fort west.
Kin.yu,or HU-CHI-CHIN BAY. — N.N. E. 4i miles from Che-lang-hiau is Kin-yu or
em->ue. Kem-sue, a rocky islet, 5 cables in extent, in a N.E. and S.E. direction. The highest
part of the Islet is to the N.E. under which is a high rock. The shores are bold to ;
in the channel between it and the South end of Pauk-shao Point, which is 1^ miles
wide, is a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms ; off the point is a large white rock surrounded
by reefs.
Pauk-shao, or Pauk-shao, or Pe-sha-hu, Bay will afford very good shelter, unless the wind
e-s a.hu. comes to the eastward of South, there being 5 fathoms water due North of the eastern
point : On a point on the South side of the entrance to the inner bay is a fort, to the
West of which less than 3 fathoms will be found.
The eastern point of Hu-chi-chin Bay bears East 1 1 miles* from Che-lang-hiau ;
near the southern extremity is a remarkable conical hill, Chino Cone, which,
together with the islets Tung-ki and Si-ki, render this portion of the coast readily
recognized.
Tung-ki. Tung-ki bears S. 42° E. 2^ (?) miles from Chino Cone; it is about 18 feet above
the sea, with some detached rocks upon its eastern side, and three rocks awash half
a cable from its N W. side : the channel between it and the main is a mile wide,
* E.N.E. 14 miles by the Chart.
SUPPLEMENT. 73
with a depth of 9 and 12 fathoms. North of it one mile, and East 7 cables from the
South end of Chino Point, is a cluster of rocks (called Tien-vvi-peau in the chart),
nearly level with the water's edge.
Si-ki bears from Tung-ki 8. GG° W. 3^ miles, and from Chino Cone S. 26° W. It si-ki.
is about 80 feet high, rises abruptly, and is cleft at the summit; between Tung-ki
and it there are 11 and 12 fathoms.
West from Chino Cone there is a reef of rocks extending nearly 4 cables from the Reef,
shore, the outer of which will not shew at high water unless there is a considerable
swell. When upon it Tung-ki bears S. 49° E., Si-ki S. 19° W., and the eastern white
rock in the northern part of the bay is in one with Round Hill bearing N. 31° W.
Chino Bay lies immediately to the north of Chino Cone; there are a fort and a Chino Bay.
small village in it, opposite to which the water is shoal, the 2-fathoms line extending
5 cables from the shore. Vessels will find smoother water by standing farther to
the northward and anchoring to the eastward of Yellow Stone, which is the
southernmost of the group of rocks in the N.E. part of the bay, where there
is a depth of 3f fathoms. The walled town of Kie-shi-wei lies E. by N. from the
Yellow Stone 3 miles, and will be seen over the low land from this anchorage.
There is a creek leading up to the town which will admit junks at high water.
Between the Yellow Stone and the rock 7 cables N.W. of it is a channel with 4^ Hu.chi.chin
fathoms; but vessels are recommended not to stand farther in among the rocks, as ^^'
there are several reefs which cover at high water. There is one outside the rocks
which vessels standing into the bay may get upon unless it is pointed out; it bears
N. fil W. ]! miles from the Yellow Stone, in which direction the Yellow Stone is
in one with the north end of the Chino hills; the eastern white rock bears from it
N. 63° E., the western white rock, N. 50° W. The east and west rocks are the two
largest of the group. Vessels of light draft may stand in towards the beach to the
northward of the western white rock, where they will find from 3f to 2| fatlioms,
the water shoaling gradually towards the beach.
The village of Kensiang lies in the N.E. corner of the bay immediately under
Round Hill. There are not more than 3 fathoms to the northward of the hill at the
S.E. point of the bay. Two rivers empty themselves into the northern head of the
bay, neither of which has 9 feet over the bar, and the sea usually breaks all across
them. The western is the one which communicates with Honghae Bay.
On the N.W^ side of the bay the hills rise suddenly from the plain through which
these rivers flow and attain an elevation of 1,850 feet.
From Chino Point to Cnpchi the distance is 17 miles, the coast trending E. by
N. At the distance of 5 miles is a point with black rocks oft' it, and a square white
rock on its S.W. side. N.W. from the latter, H cables, is a sunken rock. This
bay will not aflbrd shelter.
The mouth of the RIVER HUTONG is 8^ miles from Cupchi ; it has 6 feet over Hutong River,
the bar, and upon the south bank of the river is a fort. S.E. by E. from the latter ll
miles is an islet ; the channel between which and the main is obstructed by reefs.
Off the islet, on its northern and eastern sides, are detached rocks and reefs, one of
which has a curious knob upon it.
Five miles to the westward of Cui)chi the hills come down to the beach ; on their
northern peak there is a remarkable boulder, and 1 mile from the point is a flat
rock with sunken rocks between it and the main.
CUPCHI POINT rises to the height of 210 feet above the sea; on it are several Cupdn Point,
rugged rocks, and near the south end is a dilapidated fort. South from the point 1|-
miles is Flat Rock, 14 feet above the sea, between the two are two islets and several
rocks. The junks use the passage between Flat Rock and that to the northward
of it, which is 4 cables wide. Sunken rocks lie to the eastward of both, and will be
74
SUPPLEMENT.
Cupchi.
Tungao.
detected by the discoloured water. Between the islets and the point the channel
is 2 cables wide, the bottom is rocky, and the soundings irregular.
From the point to the westward of the south fort is a rocky ledge extending
2 cables from the shore, the outer end of which breaks at low water spring tides.
Vessels will find good anchorage to the southward of the Shag Rock, which
is 3 feet above water, in the North East monsoon, and can choose their depthof
water. The latter is 5 cables from the shore, and has 2^ fathoms arounfl it,
except to the S.S.E., where there is a reef attached to it.
On the main to the East of it is a fort at the entrance of the river leading to the
walled town of Cupchi.* Over the bar there are 9 feet water, but the channel is
intricate. The town is If miles from the entrance, which is further defended by
another fort and a martello tower on the sand. Near the town is a low pagoda.
Four and a half miles from Cupchi Point is the Black Mount, 230 feet above the
sea, and a half mile from the beach, rising, as described by Ross, from a red sand
down. Reefs extend some distance from the shore under the mount, and from the
coast towards Cupchi.
The village of TUNG AO is situated in a bight of the coast N.E. by E. 16 miles
from Cupciii, the intervening coast being low and sandy. To the westward of
Tungao is a river, over the bar of which the sea breaks at low water. On the
North side, at the entrance, there is a pagoda, and there is another on the hills, one
mile North of it. Off the bar the water shoals suddenly, to avoid which the fort
White Rock.
Breaker Point.
Tides.
at Tungao must not be brought to the eastward of N.E. ^
N.
when within l^
miles of it. This will be found a very good roadstead in the N.E. monsoon.
Three and a half miles S.E. by E. from Tungao is White Rock, which forms a
good mark for the recognition of the coast ; between the two is another creek
witli a fort upon the hills East of it.
The land near the coast is low hereabouts with several fishing villages in the sandy
bays. Tlie boats belonging to these villages are very numerous, and being of a
different shape and smaller than those off" Haimun and Cupchi will enable a vessel
to identify her position in default of astronomical observations.
BREAKER POINT lies East 7 miles from the White Rock, and there are several
rocks between them. The bay to the westward of Breaker Point, which is fronted
by a flat reef and an islet, cannot be recommended as a place of shelter,
being full of rocks. Breaker Point will be known from seaward by a black dome-
shaped hill 2 miles from the shore which rises to the height of 280 feet. From a
red sand drift to the westward of it is a long range called Slope Hill, 1,0.30 feet
high, with a sudden dip to the westward ; on the southern extremity of the cape is
a remarkable rocking stone. The S.E. and S.W. points of the land on each side
of the rocking stone have small islets oft" them, and forts upon the points opposite to
them ; detached reefs lie oft' the shore, which should not be approached within half
a mile.
The observations on the tides during the months of January to May, between
Breaker Point and Hongkong, made the ebb set to the eastward, but, generally
speaking, very little tide was experienced. To the eastward of Breaker Point,
however, the flood sets to the eastward, which is its direction throughout the N.E.
coast of China. The times of high water on full and change days from Hongkong
to the Yang-tse-kiang, not deviating more than from one to three hours before the
moon's transit, unless obstructed by local causes, with the exception of the vicinity
of Breaker Point, where it was high water at 3^ p.m. on the full moon in January
1845.
Cliiil.hae Creek.
The creek leading to the walled town of CHIN-HAE affords a passage only for
* The town is named Kiahtsz in the Chart.
SUPPLEMENT. 75
small junks. On the east side, near the entrance, is a fort, which bears N.E. by N. 5
miles from Breaker Point ; indifferent shelter might be obtained under it by
vessels drawing 12 feet, in the North East Monsoon, but it would be found an
awkward place should the wind come to the southward of East.
From the fort the coast trends N.E., If miles to ROCKY POINT, which Rocky Point.
is low. Sunken rocks abound along this portion of the coast, some of which are
6 cables from the shore.
HAIMUN BAY. — At Rocky Point the coast line turns to the northward ; at the Haimun
distance of 4^ miles, there is a head-land, with reefs extending '2j cables to the East "^'
of it.
The south-eastern part of Haimun Bay bears N.E. ^ E. 7 miles from hence. The
highest part of the hills at the back of it forms a double peak: on the highest
of the two peaks there is an artificial mound, 590 feet above the sea. On the hills
immediately over the point is a small Joss house, with some poles near it, upon one
of which a light is occasionally hoisted. Off the point, 9 cables, are two sunken
rocks, on which the sea breaks when there is a heavy swell. The bearings from
the soutliern one are Haimun Peak, N.9°E. ; Cape of Good Hope, N.65°E. ;
Rocky Head, at the entrance of Haimun River, N. 40° W. This head in line with
the western peak of Pagoda Range will carry you to the southward of it. There is
a passage between it and the shore.
Near the anchorage off Haimun is another rock, the bearings of which are, Rocky
Head, N. 48° E. 9 cables ; eastern end of Haimun, E. l(f S. ; Haimun Peak,
E. 10° N. ; South Pagoda, N. 8|° W.
Vessels drawing more than 14 feet must not bring the fort upon the East side
of the first sandy bay to the eastward of N.E. by E. ^ E., unless they are more
than 6 cables from the shore, as there is a rocky ledge extending that distance from
the fort point, and terminating in a rock which shews at low water, bearing W. 8° N.
from the fort, distant 6 cables.
The peak on the west end of Pagoda Range, mentioned as a mark for avoiding
the reef outside, is in line with a large stone near the centre of the bay. East of the
Rocky Head, bearing N. .39° VV.* when upon it ; and a large stone near the west
end of a sandy bay extending westerly from the fort is in line with the highest
part of the rugged range to the north of Haimun Peak, bearing N. 10° E. The
channel between it and the western shore of the bay is 4 cables wide ; vessels will
find 3 fathoms water to the northward of it. There is another sunken rock bearing
S. 48° W. from Rocky Head, 9 cables.
To the westward of the Rocky Head is the mouth of a stream, one mile wide, with
If fathoms over the bar at low water : the walled town of Haimun is on the left
bank-j- of the river, not quite a mile from the Rocky Head. North of the town, the
river takes a turn to the westward, and is broad, with many mud banks dry at low
water.
The land to the northward is low, and the distance across to the Santowshan
Estuary is 3 miles ; and in one of the Chinese charts of the coast there is a channel
through : but in another the passage is closed. In all probability tliere will be
found a communication by canal. In this neighbourhood are three Pagodas, two
of which are upon hills, and one on the low land ; the former, in clear weather, are
seen from Namoa.
From Haimun Bay to the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE the coast trends E. 19° N., ^''^^;/^'""'
the distance being 9 miles; detached rocks lie half a mile from the shore for the distance
of 31 miles from the former, when the sandy beach which connects the two bays is
steep to.
* N. 43° W. by Chart. f The right bank in entering.
76
SUPPLEMENT.
The southern side of the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE affords secure anchorage
in the North-East monsoon ; the best shelter will be found in the first sandy bay,
near a fort and a large tree. Sunken rocks extend a cable's length from the point
under the fort, otherwise the bay is clear and the lead your guide.
On the western side of this bay is a remarkable peaked rock, and in the west end
of the bay beyond is the mouth of a creek which communicates with the Santowshan
Estuary rendering the Cape of Good Hope an Island. There are only 7 feet water
over the bar, which is barely a cable across, and is defended by a fort. The reefs
extend south-westerly from the fort 3 cables, to a rock which is always above water,
rendering the straight channel impassable for the large fishing boats at high water,
which at this time of tide leave the rock to the eastward, and pass between it and
the islets off the fort. In the event of a ship's company being obliged to take to the
boats, this channel would be the best route to Namoa, as, off the Cape of Good
Hope, there is a tide race, in which, during a breeze, few boats would live.
POSITIONS OF SOME OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE FOREGOING DIRECTIONS.
Name.
Particular Spot.
Lat. N.
Long. E.
Ninepin . . . . . . .. ^.
Summit
o /
22 16
° 1
114 22
Basalt Island
Summit
•22 19
114 22
Hunchback
Summit
22 24
114 15
Sharp Peak
Summit
22 25
114 22
Port Island
Summit
22 29
114 21
Single Island . .
East Summit . .
22 24
114 39
Tooneang
Summit
22 27
114 37
Pyramid Island . .
Summit
22 35
114 42
West Peak of Harlem's Bay . .
22 41
114 47
Narrow Island . .
Summit
22 40
114 38
Pagoda Island . .
Pagoda
22 45
114 38
>> If
Summit
* ,
22 44
114 42
Harlem Peak
Summit
22 41
114 54
Mendoza Island
Summit
22 31
114 57
Pedra Branca . .
Summit
22 19
115 6
Pauk Pyah
Summit
22 33
115
Siting . .
Summit
22 39
115 3
Tungting
Summit
22 38
115 4
Inside Island
Summit
22 47
115 25
Honghae Island
Summit
22 44
115 11
East Peak at Entrance of Shoal Bay .
Pagoda
22 47
115 13
Tysammee Middle
Summit
22 42
115 20
Cone Peak . . . :
Summit
22 48
115 27
Goat Island
Summit
22 38
115 28
Reef Island
*
Summit . .
22 36
115 30
Che-lang-hiau . .
Summit
22 38
115 33
Kem-sue
' Summit
22 42
115 36
Pank-shao
Highest HiU ..
22 44
115 34
Tung-ki
Summit
22 42
115 45
Chino Peak
Summit
22 44
115 47
Yellow Stone . .
Summit
22 48
115 45
Hutong Island . .
Summit
22 47
115 57
Nob Peak
Summit
22 50
115 58
Cupchi . .
Point Hill *. .
22 48
116 4
High Double Peak
East Peak . .
23 16
116
Low Double Peak ...
North Peak . .
23
115 56
Black Mount . .
22 51
116 3
Tungao . .
Low Pagoda . .
22 57
116 13
Slope Hill . . . ". ■ '. ]
.
23
116 19
Breaker Peak . .
Islet off it
22 55
116 25
Chinghae Fort . .
22 59
116 27
Haimun Peak . .
Summit
23 11
116 33
C. of Good Hope
Summit
23 14
116 47
SUPPLEMENT. 77
Remarks on River Min, hy Capt. Collinson, R.N. 11 Sept., 1845.
On examination, the knoll at the entrance of the river, which was found to have
only 9 feet at low water in 1843, has now 13 feet over it, and it has moved to the
northward, rendering it advisable to pass to the southward of it, in the event of
jiassing the bar at low water, for which purpose Rees Rock should be brought in
one with the foot of Square Peak instead of the summit, but with the old leading
mark on. The Plover crossed the bar at neap tides one hour and a half before
high water, and never had less than 4| fathoms.
There is a passage to the northward of the Middle Ground, which lies to the
westward of the Kin-pae-mun, but it is narrower than that upon the southern side of
the river.
The tide sets with considerable velocity across the channel in the vicinity of Rees
Rock, and, with an ebb tide, the Plover grounded on the northern shoals, having
missed stays, owing to the lightness of the breeze.
We endeavoured, but without success, to find a channel through the shoals on
that side, not finding more than 6 feet at low water.
VOL. II. 6
INDEX OF SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. IL
Acongchow
Akyab Port
Albert Peak ...
Amherst Harbour
Amoy to Chusan
Anamba Islands
Apo Shoal
Arracan River
Awota Rock
Azores
Babuyan Islands
Banca Strait .
Bangoa Rocks .
Barbucit Hill .
Barreras Bay .
Basalt Island .
Bashee Islands .
Batan Island .
Batavia
Bay Island
Baylis Bay
Bell Island
Bessey, Pulo .
Bernadino Strait,
Bias Bay
Big Island
Black Mount
BlufF Island and
Borneo
Breaker Point
Brig Island
Brothers
Bush Reef
Button
Cagayanes Islands
Canton River
Cape of Good Hope, China
Cap Island
Catwick Islands
Cavallo Island ..
Ceicer de Mer, Pulo
Central Islands
Central Islet
Challum Bay
Chang-che-shan Island
Chapel Island
Chapoo City
Chauan Bay
Chtduba Island
Chelsieu
Che-li ng-hiau
Chik-hok Island
St.
Head
Page]
67
68
37
26
13
8
14
13
11
34
37
48
36
9
39
13
61
,,
27
62
,,
40
,.
65
39
40
13
65
.,
42
46
61
34
68
69
,,
69
74
65
66
40
62
,,
74
42
46
66
61
10
6
41
75
17
14
63
,,
■ 5
,,
64
,,
66
,,
43
20
14
31
45
3
, ,
45
72
••
24
Chitnmo Bay ... ... 7,
China Coast
China Sea ... 13,34,
Ching Reef
Chinchew Bay ...
Chin-hae ... ... 9,
Chin-hae to Chappoo .
Chin-hae to Shang-hae
Chino Bay, Point, and Cone
Chittagong
Chuh-seu Island
Chusan, Archipelago
Chusan to Chapoo
Chwang-yung-shan
Coast Islet
Coin Island
Cone Island and Peak 21, 41,
Crescent Island
Crooked Island
Cupchi
Dairy mple Port...
Dansborg Island
Dioyu
Dodd Island
DoUabarats Shoal
Dome Island ...
Double Island ...
Double Peak Island
East Island
Eighteen Yit Islands
Embocadero Strait
False Island
Fan-lo-kong
Fisher Island ...
Flat Island
Fokai Point
Folkestone Rock
Fort Bay
Foo-tow-mun ...
Foul Island
Four-Fathom Shoal
Fuh-yaou-shan Group
Gaspar Strait ...
Gillolo Passage
Goat Island
Golconda Shoal
Goo Reef
Gow-tovv-pyah
Grass Island
Hae-tan Strait
Haimun Bay
Han River
Pasie
16, 51
.. 14
38, 62
.. 47
.. 51
30, 74
.. 30
.. 30
72, 73
37, 61
.. 25
27, 29
.. 30
.. 23
.. 70
.. 23
46, 65
.. 67
.. 67
73, 74
.. 35
.. 47
.. 45
.. 49
.. 36
.. 55
.. 67
.. 21
.. 58
.. 17
.. 34
4
.. 69
.. 56
56, 64
.. 70
.. 43
.. 72
.. 63
.. 5
.. 5
.. 21
.. 64
.. 32
.. 71
.. 63
.. 47
.. 65
.. 66
.. 55
.. 75
.. 42
Harbour Group
Hat Island
Hebe Haven
Hen and Chickens
Henry Rock
Heywood Channel
High Island
Hih-shan Islands
Hole Island
Hong-kong
Hong-hae Bay ...
Hoo-e-tow Bay
Hoo-tow-shan Island,
and River
Hu-chi-chin Bay
Hunchback
Hung-hvifa-foo Sound
Hutong River ...
Inside Island ...
Jarrang Pulo ...
Java Sea
Jerajah, Pulo ...
.loachim Bank ...
•Jokakko Peak ...
Jones Cove ...
.Just-in-the-way
Kem-sue
Kensiang
Kiahtsz
Kin-yu
Kourfi Island ...
Lamock Islands
Lamyit Islands
Larne Rock
Lea-ming
Lee-o-loo Bay ...
Lombock Strait
Long Harbour ...
Lootzee
Low Island
Low-ka Islands
Lozin, Pulo
Macassar Strait
Malacca Strait ...
Madjicosemah Islands
Manila Bay
Masbate Island
Matheson Harbour
Ma-tsoo-shan Island
Meaow-shan ...
Mei-chow Sound
Mendoza Island
Page
69
71
64
32
4
5
8, 62
25
65
6
70, 71
. 15, 49, 50
Head,
23, 48
72, 73
64, 67
55
73
71
62
40
61
42
46
66
9
72
73
74
72
40
44
16, 54
20
26
6
35
66
54
57, 69
23
38
34
37
39
34, 63
40
53
20
23
53
70
u
INDEX OF SUPPLEMENT TO VOL II.
Pagei
41
Page
Page
Middle Group
68
r^edBay
... 48
Ta-fuh-tow
.. 26
Min River
"I's
77
Reef Islands 17,
58. 72
Tahea ...
.. 28
Mintow Point ...
61
Rees Rock and Pass . . .
47, 77
Ta-luk-shan
.. 23
Mirs Bay
Montagu Cape
"64
65
Remo, Pule
... 61
Tambelan
.. 62
26
Rhio Strait
... 14
Tamtoo
.. 63
Nam-ke-shan ...
22
Rocky Harbour
... 65
Tan Pooni
.. 61
Namoa
42,44
45
Romania Islands
... 62
Teaou-pung-mun
.. 24
Nam-quan Island
...
22
Round Island ...
... 57
Thousand Islands
... 5
Nanka Islands
13
Rover Group ...
... 58
Thwart-the-way
... 61
Narrow Island ...
• • .
69
Rugged Islands
... 32
Ting-hae
8
Nerbuddah Rock
5
Saddle Island ...
... 61
Ting-tae Bay ...
14,48
Net Island
67
Samboangan ...
... 9
Tingy Islands
... 62
New Guinea, Shoals near
...
35
Sam-sah Islands
... 8
Tongsan
... 46
Nimrod Sound
38
San-chi-san, or Triple Island
... 26
Tooneang Group
... 67
Nine Feet Reef
58
Sand Island
... 57
Torres Strait
... 59
Nine Pin Group
• ■•
63
San-moon Bay
26, 68
Tortoise Rock ...
... 56
Ningpo River ...
9.
28
Sanmun
... 68
Town Island ...
... 65
Nob Rock and Reef ...
48
66
Santa-cruz Islands
10, 34
Tree Island
... 5
North Cone
. • •
69
Sapata, Pulo ...
... 38
Trio Rocks
... 20
North Island ...
• • •
57
Sarawak
... 62
Triple Island ... 26, 57
63, 69
Ock-seu Island
• • .
16
Sayer Islands ...
... 5
Tsang-chow
... 69
Organ Island ...
...
57
Seaou-luk-shan
... 24
Tseigh Islands
... 23
Owick Bay
45
Seao-seao
... 27
Tsih-sing
... 21
Pagoda Bay
43
See-shan Group
... 31
Tsincoe
... 70
Pagoda Island
70
Sharp Island ...
... 64
Tsong-boo
7
Panagatan Shoal
■ • •
41
Shelter Port
... 64
Tulphin Island
... 61
Panay, Shoals near
...
41
She-tung-mun
... 24
Tungao
... 74
Pauk-pyah
70
Shei-poo Road and Harbour
... 27
Tung-chuh-seu Group
... 25
Pauk-shao
• • •
72
Shoal Bay
... 71
Tung-shan
... 46
Pata-he-cock Island ...
...
26
Si-ki
... 73
Tung- ting
... 71
Penang
• . •
61
Simirara Islands
... 11
Tung-yung Peak
... 20
Peng-chow Island
• • *
67
Singapore Strait and Town
38, 61
Tung-ki
... 72
Pescadores Islands
...
55
Single Island
... 67
Turnabout Island
... 17
Pe-sha-hu
72
Sinta Rock
... 44
Twins ...
... 69
Pe-shan Group
. .■
23
Sipang, C.
... 62
lYpoong Harbour
... 68
Pih-ke-shan Group
22
Si-ting
... 71
Tysammee Inlet and Mound
70, 71
Pih-keuen, or White Dog
Islands
17
South Bay
... 44
Waglan
... 63
Pih-seang-shan
• • .
21
South Island ...
58, 62
Wang-chow-foo River
... 23
Pih-quan Harbour
• . >
22
South Rock
... 53
West Island
... 57
Plover, Port
...
67
Spider Island ...
... 21
West Shoal
... 4
Point Island
69
Spire ...
... 48
White Dog Islands
... 17
Ponghou Islands
55
Square Island to Shang-hae
... 32
White Head
... 66
Port Island
...
66
St. Bernadino Strait . . .
... 34
White Rock
... 74
Psyche Bay
45
Steep Island
... 63
WiUiam Shoal
... 5
Pyramid Island
...
68
Sugar Loaf
... 42
Woo-sung
... 33
Pyramid Rock
. • .
65
Sunda Strait ...
... 61
Wreck Island
... 47
Quemoy
15
Table Islands
... 57
Yang-tsze-kiang
33, 74
Ranged Island ...
...
57
Tae-chow Islands
8. 24
Yellow Stone •■.
... 73
Raine Island ...
...
58
Tae-shan, or Table Hill
... 21
Yung-kiang
... 28
Tbis
book is DUE on
the last dates
oOm
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