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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I 21. 5A -v^..- r-p* -■-- <*.» '• X • • "^ ». ' ■»>5y / 'y&a y '^y^f'/'^^'y t ^yfya,y,ncj HARVARD COLLEGE I LIBRARY r JOURNAL OF AN EMBASSY FKOM TIIF. GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA TO THE COURTS OF SIAM AND COCHIN CHINA; EXHIBITING A VIEW OF THE ACTUAL STATE OF THOSE KINGDOMS. II V JOHN CRAWFURD, ESQ., FRS., FLS., FGS., &c. LATE ENVOY. SECOND EDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1830. I A Just Published, JOURNAL OF AN EMBASSY FaOM THE OOVERNOR-OENBRAL OF INDIA TO THE COURT OF AVA, IN THE YEAR 1827. BY JOHN CRAWFURD, ESQ. LATF. ENVOY. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPTER I. Nature of the Mission.— Departure from Calcutta.— Islands Preparis and Narcondam. — Sayer Islands* — Coast of Siam. — Arrival at Penang. — Invasion of the neighbouring Ma- layan Principality by the Siamese. — Incidents at Penang.— Description of the Settlement .... 1 CHAPTER II. Departure from Penang. — ^Description of the Principality of Queda.— Description of the Dinding Islands. — ^Account of Perak. — ^Arrival at Malacca.-^Incidents there.— Description of the place. — Visit to the Carimon Islands. — ^Arrival at Singapore. — Incidents there. — Ancient Settlement of the Malays. — Chinese Navigation. — Account of the race of Ma- lays called Orang-laut . • .41 CHAPTER III. Departure from Singapore* — Passage to the Coast of Borneo.*— Malayan Islands in the ChanneL — Visit to Pulo-Ubi> and Description of it. — Numerous Islands on the eastern coast of the Gulf of Siam. — Island of Phukok described. — ^Arrival in the roads of Siam . .86 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Communication of our Arrival made to the Court of Siam. — Entertainment given to the Mission. — ^Negotiation for pro- ceeding to the Capital. — Ship ascends the River ; appearance of its Banks. — Arrival at Bangkok ; appearance of the place. — Delivery of the Governor-General's Letter. — Visit to the Phraklang, or Foreign Minister. — Delivery of the Presents for the King.— The Mission lands. — Description of its Resi- dence. — Visit to the Prince Krom-chiat, now King of Siam. — Arrangement of the Ceremonial for our Presentation to the King. — Second Visit to the Foreign Minister.— The Mission presented to the King. — Description of the Cere- mony. — Inspection of the White Elephants, &c. — The Mis- sion receives a visit, and is entertained hy the Foreign IMinister .... • . 109 CHAPTER V. Mission visited by the Portuguese Consul. — Rapacity cf the Court. — State of Parties. Visit to the Portuguese Consul. -Visit to Siamese Temples, and description of them. — Number and variety of the Votaries. — Their conduct. — Visit to the town of Bangkok. — Buddhist Temple. — Hindu Tem- ple. — Ancient Ruins. — Commencement of the Negotiation. — Relics of Gautama. — Despatches sent by the Mission across the Peninsula. — Visit to the Prince Krom-chiat, and Conver- sation held with him. — Opinion entertained by the Siamese respecting our Indian Conquests. — Funeral of a Siamese. — Excursion to the Neighbourhood of Bangkok — Religious re- gard of the Siamese for Animal life. — Splendid Temple constructing by the Prince Krom-chiat. — Negotiation renew- ed. — King's Character and Employments. — Annual Cere- mony of the King's holding the Plough. — Punishment of a Christian Interpreter. — Arrival of a Portuguese f»nd an £ng- CONTENTS. V CHAPTER Vr. Negotiation put off, owing to his Majesty's changing his resi- dence. — Acquaintance made with a Siamese Priest. — Arrival of a Ship belonging to the King of Siam from Bengal. — Anecdote illustrative of the Character of the Siamese Go- vernment. — Visit to a singular Temple. — Renewal of the Negotiation. — Arrival of Ambassadors from Cochin China, and their Reception. — Second Visit to the Siamese Priest^ and Conversation. — Practice of kidnapping Strangers, and selling them in Siam for Slaves. — Death of a Princess from Cholera Morbus. — ^ Visit from some Brahmins, and an account of them. — Account of a Siamese Ceremony. — A Conference with the Phraklang, or Foreign Minister. — Siamese Letter- writing. — Visit ^m a Chief of Lao. — Setting in of the South-west Monsoon. — Siamese Reptiles. — Arrival of an American Ship. — Another Conference. — Cochin Chinese Am- bassadors visit the Phraklang. — Visit to the Catholic Bishop of Siam, and Conversation with him. —Another Conference with the Minister. — Final Conference with the Phraklang. — Answer to the Letter of the Gk)vemor- General, and Commer- cial Engagements • . . . .213 CHAPTER VII. Obstacles to European Trade in Siam. — Not applicable to that of the Chinese. — Ordination of Siamese Priests. — The wild race denominated Ka. — A Servant belonging to the Mission drowned. — Consecration of an image of Gautama. — Son of the Minister initiated into the Priesthood. — Visit from a Portuguese Christian. — Visit to the Phraklang. — Visit from a French Priest. — Anecdote of a late King of Siam.— Visit to the Prince Krom-cbiat. — Departure from Bangkok. — Land in dropping down the River. — Colony of Peguans. — Mouth of the River and its neighbourhood infested by f ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL I. View of the Town and Roads of Singapore . To face the Title Map of Siam and Cochin China . .1 Malay Man and Woman . . .81 View of the City of Bangkok . . . ,121 Siamese Man and Woman . . .176 Civil and Military Cochin-Chinese Mandarins in their dresses of ceremony . • . • . 404 Ordinary Mode of Conveyance of Persons of Rank in Cochin China • • • . • 4S4 Cochin Chinese Priest of Fo, Noviciate and Devotee . 446 VOL. II. Eight National Portraits .... 2 Siamese and Pali Alphabets, &c. &c. . . .38 Pegu and Lao Alphabets, &c. &c. . . . ib. Plan of the City of Bangkok .... 214 Cochin Chinese Lady and Mandarin of the Civil Order . 277 King of Cochin China, and Deputy Governor of Kamboja 814 Map and Plan of Singapore .... 345 JFOOD CUTS. VOL, I. Front of the Main Building of the King of Siam*s Palace' 109 White Monkey in the Elephant Stables . . .159 Siamese Temple . A Prahchidi, or Sacred Spire Spire of the Temple called Wata-naga Cochin^Chinese State Boat . 160 To face page 212 213 . 349 VOL. II. A Siamese Temple at Bangkok . . To face page 1 Gautama represented dead^ with one of his Disciples wor- shipping him . . . . .64 Cochin-Chmese Temple, near Saigun . . . 271 Idol and Painting in a temple of Gautama, or Fo, at Faifo To face page 301 Cochin-Chinese boats in the Bay of Turan . . 302 Vocabularies at the end of the second volome. 1 ■t i ■ I •.■ t: ■ t H J ■ -''• • ' ■'• ■• '-•i'* ■ .*..•*-<...•♦ • .- w. * -. r; i it 1 ■■k i •I .^ ( t ^ I f JOURNAL OF AN EMBASSY TO THE COURTS OF SI AM AND COCHIN CHINA. CHAPTER I. Nature of the Mission. — Departure from Calcutta. — ^Islands Preparis and Naroondam. — Sajrer Islands. — Coast of Siam. — ^Arrival at Penang. — Invasion of the neighbouring 'Ma- layan principality by the Siamese. — Incidents at Penang. — Description of the Settlement. I RETURNED to India in the month of May, 1881, and in September was nominated by the late Marquis of Hastings, then Governor-general of India, to proceed on a mission to the Courts of Siam and Cochin China. The circumstances which led to this appointment are sufficiently de- tailed in my instructions, which will be found in the Appendix to the present work. My cpm- panions were Captain Dangerfield and Lieutenant Rutherford, of the Indian army, and Mr. Fin- layson, of His Majesty's Medical Service. Captain VOL. I. B 2 EMBASSY TO SIAM Dangerfield was appointed my assistant, and to succeed in case of accident; Mr. Rutherford commanded our small escort of thirty Sepoys; and Mr. Finlayson was attached to the mission in quality of medical officer and naturalist. I had the good fortune tp find in Captain Dan- gerfield a skilful astronomer, surveyor, and geo- logist ; and Mr, Finlayson with zeal and talents had made, highly respectable .acquirements in botany and zoology. The John Adam, an In- dian-built ship of about S80 tons burthen, was appointed for the accommodation of the mission. Having received my instructions, and beuig charged with letters addressed from the Gover- nor-general to the Kings of Siam and Ck)chin China, accompanied by such presents as are re- quired by the usages of the East, we embarked, on the 21st of November, 1821, and dropped down the river with the ebb-tide, which took us as far as the Government manufactory of gun- powder, about eight miles below Calcutta, car- rying us within a stone's throw of the left bank of the river, and along the most picturesque part of it ; that bend of the Hoogly which Eu- ropeans call Gfuxlen Reach, a series of beautiful and magnificent country-houses belonging to some of the principal merchants of Calcutta. Nov. 23. — There being no wind yesterday to •enable us to stem the flood-tide, we could only make progress during the ebbs, and from the AND COCHIN gHINA. 3 intricacy of the navigation, this only during day^ light. This morning a favourable breeze sprung up from the north-east/ which enabled us to stem the flood-tide, and ive successively passed Fultah and the James and Mary Sbnd, and anchored at Culpee for the night. The passage of the James and Mary Sand, formed by the junction of the Rupnarain with the Hoogly, is the most dan- gerous part of the navigation of the river. The bank is a hard sand, and the channel constantly changing. In running down we had met the Feoember and January; and the hottest^ June and July. In rural economy, the rainy season is the spring of the year ; and January, February, and March, constitute autumn. In the former the rioe crop is sown, and in the latter it is reaped. But the great irregularity of the seasons is exhibited in the progress of the pepper plant towards fruc- tification ; for the same individual plant blossoms twice a-year, namely, in April and in October^ and affords two crops, one of which is reaped in January, and the other in June. The husbandry of Penang is favourably dis- tinguished from that of any of the rest of our Eastern possessions, and, when we consider the barren and limited nature of the spot, may be quoted as a remarkable proof of the efficacy, as well as safety, -of European colonization. This colonization has sprung out of necessity or ac- cident. The land could not be cultivated with- out the aid of European enterprise and capital, and therefore Europeans were allowed, as a matter of mere exigency, to become proprietors of the soil. The landed proprietors of Penang consist, however, of persons of all the races which inhabit it ; but the chief proprietors, and the only improvers, are the two most industrious classes — the Europeans and the Chinese. The terms of the grants of land are in perpetuity, on payment of a trifling yearly quit-rent to the AND COCHIN CHINA. 27 9tat;e» of one-*fifth^ of a Spanish dollar for an wlong, a measure of one and one-third English acres. Fifteen hundred apd seventy of these grants have been given, and about 13,000 acres of the area of the island are in a state of cuU ture. Notwithstanding these favourable tenures, the natural barrenness of the island and the limited extent of its territory, necessarily exclude from its husbandry all such productions as demand either peculiar fertility of soil or an extensive range for their growth. In an agricultural point of view, it may be strictly said to be unfit for the growth of rice or any other grain,— of the sugar-cane, cotton, coffee, and indigo — the grand staples of tropical husbandry ; but, in the culture of articles where skill can compensate for natural defects, the agriculture of Prince of Wales's Island is much superior to that of any other country of Asia. This is especially seen in the culture of pepper, and in the production of such fruits as find a ready market from the frequent resort of strangers. So neat and perfect a specimen of husbandry nowhere exists in the East as the pepper culture of Penang, — ^the joint effect of the superintending activity of Europeans, and the industrious labour of the Chinese. In Penang, the average of all pepper vines gives an annual product of two catties, or forty^two and two-thirds of an ounce avoirdu-r 38 l^MBAi^Y ' TO SIAM. poise. In Malabar, the produce of a vine is no more than seven and one-fifth of an ounce, and according to the monopoly culture of Bencoolen, but six and a-half ounces. Agreeably to this estimate, an acre planted with pepper yidds, at Penang, S040 lbs., in Malabar, 844 lbs., and in Bencoolen, 810 Ibsj^ In the expense of cul- ture, there is, to be sure, a wide difierence. To clear an acre of land at Penang, to supiply the yoimg plants, and to plant themselves, and their vegetating props, costs a hundred and twen^ Spanish dollars. After incurring all this charge^ with loss of interest of capital for four years* until the gardens begin to bear, they are let to Chinese cultivators on lease, the farmer pay* ing one-third of the net produce as rent, and restoring the pepper gardens in good order. It is evident that very little of what is strictly rent enters into the elements of the proprietor's revenue, which is chiefly composed of the profits of stock. The fruits cultivated at Penang, in the greatest perfection and quantity, are the orange, the plantain, and the pine-apple ; all excellent, but the two last better than I have any where else found them. Both are in season throughout the year, and a hundred pines, of a middling size,, are prociu^ble in the market for a Spanish dol- lar. Those weighing six and seven pounds may be had at the rate of fifty for the same money. AND COCHIK CHINA. 29 The mangusteen 'and durian, the two most oostly fruits, are imported from the neighbour- ing coasts of the peninsula, but are cheap and abundant in their season. The fisheries at Fenang constitute a valuable property among a population, the great bulk of which consumes no other animal food, and a large proportion of this* The Chinese are the ^ fishmongers, and the Malays and other islanders are the fishermen. The modes of taking fish we innumerable. The smaller kinds are caught by ' hand-nets, a few with the line, but the greater quantity by the seine, and, above all, by stake-nets, with which a portion of the shal- lowest part of the harbour is covered. The most delicate, and one of the most abundant, -of the fishes taken is the pomfret. When the English took possession of Pe- nang, in 1786, it was wholly uncultivated, and had no other inhabitants than a few occasional Malayan fishermen. It now contains* about 89,000, according to a regular yearly census, taken ever since 1815. This population con- sists of the following motley ingredients, viz. Indian islanders, Chinese, natives of the Coro- ^ . * By the oensus taken in 1824, the population of the island^ indading the annexed territory on the opposite coasts was found to have increased to 55,000, chiefly in consequence of emigra- tioli from the Malay state of Queda, produced by the invasion of the Siamese. 30 EAIBA8ST TO SIAM mandel and Malabar coasts, uaualljr colled Chou- liahs by EuropeanSi natives of Bengal, Bunnans and Siamese, Europeans and their descendants, with a few Arabs, Armenians, Persees, and Afii« can negroes, to which is added a floating popu- lation of about 1000. The Indian islanders amoimt to 15,400, and have greatly increased within the kut few years, in consequence of the anarchy and disorder prevalent in some of the neighbouring Malayan states. The tribes of which they chiefly consist are [Malays, Add- nese, Battaks, and Bugis. They find emplc^- ment as fishermen, woodcutters, constructors of. native houses, and field-labourers. We seldom find them employed as artisans, and not often as traders. The Chinese amount to 8595, and are landowtiers, field-labourers, mechanics of al* most every description, shopkeepers, and ge- neral merchants. They are all from the two provinces of Canton and Fo-kien, and three- fourths of them from the latter. About five- sixths of the whole number are unmarried men, in the prime of life : so that, in fact, the Chi- nese population, in point of effective labour, may be estimated as equivalent to an ordinary population of above 37,000, and, as will after- wards be shown, to a numerical Malay popu- lation of more than 80,000! The Chouliahs amount to 6417 ; they are employed as porters, field-labourers, as clerks and police-officers, as AND COCHIN CHINA. 31 shopkeepers and as merchants, and, occasionally, as mechanics. The natives of Bengal amount to 4624, and form a far less valuable part of the population than the two liast classes. About 1700 consist of military and camp followers, about 1300 are convicts, and the remainder set^ tiers, employed as labourers, domestic servants, and shopkeepers. The rate of wages paid to the different classes, when engaged in similar la- bour, affords a very striking picture of their relative skill, industry, and physical strength — in a word^ perhaps of their relative state of civilization. A Malay field-labourer works only six and twenty days in the month, and receives but two dollars and a-half as wages; a Chou* liah works twenty-eight days, and receives four dollars; and a Chinese works thirty days, and receives six dollars. The labour of a Chinese, therefore, to himself and the public is worth fifty per cent, more than that of a Chouliah ; the Chouliah's, seventy-five per cent, more than that of a Malay ; and the Chinese no less than one hundred and twenty per cent, beyond the latter. When skill is implied in the labour to be performed, the disparity is stiU more re- markable. A Chinese carpenter at Penang re- ceives fifteen dollars a-month, a Persee also fif- teen, a Chouliah eight, and a Malay six. I have little doubt but a scale might be constructed upon this principle, which would exhibit a very 32 EMBASSV TO SIAM just estimate of the comparative state of dyi- lization among nations, or, which is the same thing, of the respective merits of their diflfer^it social institutions. Notwithstanding the deaths by the cholera morbus, which carried off 1131 persons, or near one thirty-second part of the inhabitants, the population of Penang has increased since 1815, the first year in which an accurate census was made, by 5243. The cholera first made its appearance at Penang in October, 1819» in the midst of the rainy season, and disappeared in the end of February,— thus continuing for a period of four months. It chiefly raged during the first, second, third, and fourth weeks, and in the fifth began sensibly to diminish. It re- appeared in the beginning of May, 1821, in a season perfectly the reverse, and continued for two months, with a character of far less viru- lence, however, than on the first occasion. The weak, the ill-fed, and the ill-lodged, were as usual the principal victims. The natives of the continent of India, evidently the weakest of the inhabitants in point of physical frame, lost in the first attack between a fourteenth and a fifteenth part of their whole numbers; the Malays and other islanders, certainly ill-fed and lodged, but with frames more vigorous and better suited to the climate, lost but one forty-second of their number; the Chinese, well-fed, well- AND COCHIN CHINA. 83 lodged, with robust frathes, lost but one one- hundred-and-thirteenth part of their numbers; and, lastly, the mortaUty among Europeans and their immediate descendants, amounted to no more than one in two hundred. The morta- lity was incomparably greatest in marshy and swampy situations; and the deaths most fre- quent after a rainy night. The mortality in the town was five and two-thirds in a hundred, and in the country but one and one-third. Penang is supplied with rice from Bengal, from Achin ; but, above all, from the territo- ries of the King of Queda. The Achin rice is of very inferior quality; but the Bengal and Queda bring nearly the same price in the Pe- nang market. It may be considered about twen- ty-five per cent, dearer than at Calcutta, and above thirty-five per cent, dearer than at Queda. The whole, under proper arrangements, ought to come from the latter country ; but the Prince of Queda, in contravention of an existing treaty, and contrary to good policy, charges a duty of twenty per cent, on all the rice exported to Penang ; and contrives, by arbitrary regu- lations, to restrict the production to certain districts in which the impost cannot be evaded, while the trade is in the hands of petty dealers, who are incapable of conducting it with skill and economy. The daily consumption of rice in Penang, excluding the military population, about VOL. I. D 34 EMBASSY TO 8IAM one thousand seven hundred, is 32,000 pounds, which gives a consumption for each individual of seventeen-twentieths of a pound* There should be deducted from this calculation the small portion of wheat used by a few of the inhabitants, and the rice consumed in the dis- tillery of arrack and by cattle, which is, how- ever, inconsiderable. Perhaps three-quarters of a pound a-day will be very near the real con- sumption per head. I am thus particular in giving this statement, because nowhere else is there afforded an opportunity of ascertaining a fact of this nature, with so much predsioQ. The history of this little establishment is very shortly told. After the war which ended in the peace of 1783, and during which we had had to struggle for naval superiority with the French, the want of a good harbour in the Bay of Bengal, as a resort for our ships of war, became evident; and Penang, after other abor- tive and injudicious attempts had been made, was at length fixed upon, under the admi- nistration of Sir John Macpherson. The per- son who recommended it to the attention of the Gk)vemment of India, was a Mr. Francis Light, who had traded and resided for a num- ber of years at Siam and Queda, and who had a title of nobility from the former country. The settlement was formed in the year 1786, and this gentleman appointed to the charge of AND COCHIN CHINA. 35 it, under the title of Superintendant. There is no foundation whatever for the idle story which has gained currency, of Mr. Light's hav- ing received Penang as a dowry with a daughter of the King of Queda. It was made over to the East India Company, in consideration of a yearly payment of 6000 Spanish dollars, to compensate for any loss of revenue which might arise to this petty prince from its occupation. It soon rose to considerable prosperity; and in the year 1791, five years after its occupation, we were already at war with the Prince of Queda on account of it. In the year 1800 we received an accession of territory by a cession of waste and uninhabited land on the opposite shore, three and twenty miles along the coast, and three miles inland, which now contairis near 6000 (inhabitants. The place still conti- nued to prosper, to increase in wealth and po- pulation, and to prove of much utility to the general interests of Indian commerce. In the year 1805, however, this utility was strangely exaggerated, and an extensive plan formed for converting it into a grand naval depdt and dock- yard, though neither the island nor its vici- nity produced a stick of timber fit for ship- building. The authorities at home thought themselves warranted, on some vague conception of its merits, to create it into a separate Pre- sidency, and to load it with a burthensome and D 2 86 EMBASSY TO SIAM* expensive civil establishment. On a reduced scale, the civil establishment even now amounts to the enormous sum of five and fifty thau^ jsand pounds sterling a-year! and the military charge, which cannot be so correctly estimated^ is certainly not under thirty thousand^ — making an aggregate expenditure of eighty five thousand pounds sterling a-year /* The real utility of Penang consists in its being a place of convenient resort for both our military and commercial navy, especially in time of war ; but, above all, in its constituting a de- pdt, or emporium, at which is concentrated^ for the convenience of the distant and general tra- der, the scattered traffic of numerous petty and barbarous tribes, separately trifling ; but when tlms united, of real importance. In none of these views, however, was it probably the most eligible situation which might have been selected. In passing through the Straits of Malacca from the west, it is a good deal out of the direct track, and the time wasted in visiting it is consider- ably increased by some difficulties in entering and quitting the harbour. The Island of Junk- Ceylon would, as a naval station, have been greatly preferable ; and for commercial purposes, Singapore is incomparably superior. Junk-Cey- * The settlements of Singapoor and Malacca have been re- cently annexed to Penang, and an enormous increase made to the civil and military establishments wholly unpalled for. AND COCHIN CHINA. 37 Ion is, however, not likely to be a competitor ; and Penang, although it will lose, by means of Singapore, the more valuable native commerce that comes from the East, will preserve, from its situation, the trade of its immediate neigh- bourhood, which will embrace the greater por- tion of the pepper trade, the trade in Areca nut, and a very considerable share of that in tin. A respectable opinion will be formed of the utility, of Prince of Wales's Island as an empo- rium, when it is stated that the value of its ex- ports and imports in 1820 amounted to 4,808,688 Spanish dollars.* The whole revenue afforded by Prince of Wales's Island amounts to about two hundred thousand Spanish dollars, or very little more than one half the expenditure. Financial re- sources so respectable, however, ought to be adequate to the maintenance of an establish- ment on a plan still sufficiently liberal, and injfmitely better suited to the purposes of good government than the present cumbrous and bur- thensome one. The sources from which the Penang revenue is derived are — duties upon the trade; and ex- cise duties, in the form of licences or monopo- lies, with a variety of minor items, such as quit- ^ In 1824-25, the exports and imports had increased to 5,265,902 Spanish dollars. 38 EMBASSY TO SIAH rents, &c. The imposts upon trade amount to about 90,000 dollars, and the excise duties to about 96,000. In a port, the great utility of which consists in the facilities which it should afford to the common trade of the nation, and the commerce of which is but a mere tranat trade, no duties whatever ought to be levied upon merchandize, because, however trifling their amount, the very act of subjecting the petty cargoes of the ignorant native traders to the examination and control of the officers of customs is, from the vexation necessarily attend- ing it, a serious obstacle to their resort. A trifling duty upon tonnage, if any duty at aU be worth levying, would be less easily evaded, more easily and cheaply levied, and in all proba- bility equally productive.* The excise duties are levied upon the con- sumption of opium, spirits, hemp used as an in- toxicating drug, betel and pepper leaves, and pork. The monopoly of the vend of each of these is sold to a farmer by public sale from year to year. Some of these objects of taxation * The Custom-House duties have recently been alxdiahed at Penang, but the formalities somewhat unreasonably kept up. The abolition of this impost arose out of an attempt of the local Government to levy duties on the trade of Singapoor and Malacca. The subject was brought forward in Parliament the Home Authorities interfered, and the imposition of duties at all the three settlements was judiciously prohibited. AND COCHIN CHINA. 39 are themselves ,very injudiciously selected. The tax on pork can be no better than a capitation tax on the Chinese, in a situation where the bulk of the rest of the population is Mohammedan. The tax cm betel-leaf, which, besides being ex- tremely unproductive, is one which falls pecu- liarly heavy upon the poorest class of the popu- lation, and exempts many of the rich. The most judicious and suitable subjects of taxation are opium, spirits, and hemp used as an intoxi- cating drug. The great consumers of opium are the Chinese and the Malays, and to a small- er extent the Siamese, Burmans, Chouliahs, and JBengallis. The regular and constant consumers of arrack, or native spirits, are the Chinese, but they seldom or never drink to the extent of inebriety. The native Christians, the Chouliahs, and the Bengallis, drink irregularly,, but when they do, always to excess. The Burmans and Siamese are looked upon as hard drinkers. The Malays are extremely temperate. In former times a tax was levied on gamb- ling, more productive than all the rest put to- gether; but on the institution of the Court of Justice, it was presented by the Grand Jury as a nuisance, and abolished. This was, perhaps, being too fastidious. The Chinese, the Malays, native Christians, Burmans, and Siamese, are vio- lently, and without a revolution in their man- ners, not certainly to be brought about by mere 40 EMBASSY TO SIAM municipal regulation, incurably addicted to gamb- ling. The Chinese especially, habitually repair to the gaming-table after a day of severe toil It would, perhaps, have been better to have re- gulated and controlled this propensity, than vain- ly to have attempted to eradicate it. The con- sequence of attempting the latter has been, that gaming still goes on clandestinely — heavy fines are levied by the police, and its officers are afforded a pretext for vexatious interference in the private concerns of the inhabitants. The industry, activity, and energy of the popu- lation of Penang, in comparison to that of other Asiatic countries, is exemplified in its capacity to pay taxes. Excluding the military and con- victs, amounting together to above 3000, and who scarcely in any respect contribute to the finances, the population of Penang pay, exclu- sive of custom-house duties, 112,759 dollars, which exhibits a rate of taxation of three dol- lars, thirteen cents, per head.* * The inhabitants of our territorial dominions on the Con- tinent, Custom-house duties included, pay only five shillings per head^ or about a third part of the amount stated in the text, yet they are the most heavily taxed of the two. The annual revenue of our Continental dominions is about 22,000,000 sterling. Were our subjects there as well governed or as indus- trious as even the inhabitants of Penang, the revenue ought to be 66,000,000, and the people less oppressed ! AND COCHIN CHINA. 41 CHAPTER II. Departure from Penang. — Description of the Principality of QnecUu — Description of tlie Dinding Islands. — ^Account of Perak. — Arrival at Malacca — Incidents there. — Descrip- tion of the Place. — Visit to the Carimon Islands.— Arrival at Singapore. — Incidents there. — ^Ancient settlement of the Malays. — Chinese Navigation. — ^Account of the race of Ma- lays called Ourang-laut. Jan. 5. — ^We went out of the harbour of Pe- • nang by the Southern channel, through which ships drawing no more than eighteen feet may always pass without risk, and thus save a day or two in their route to the Eastward. In passing out we landed upon the little island of J^rjak, about a mile and a half long, and separated from Penang by a deep and narrow channel. We found it to consist, like other places which we had visited in the neighbour- hood, of the usual grey granite. It was at this place that the construction of naval docks was contemplated ; but neither here, nor any where else in the vicinity of Penang, is there IS EMBASSY TO SIAM a sufficient rise and fall of the tide, or any other peculiar advantage for such a purpose. Jan. 7. — During the three last days our pro- gress had been impeded by calms, and light or unfair breezes, a very usual occurrence in these places. To-day we passed the southern limits of the Malay state of Queda. The principality of Queda, of which a rapid sketch will not here be out of place, is about one hundred and ten geographical miles in length, from north to south. Its breadth is unequal, and every where incon- siderable ; for the utmost width of this po- tion of the peninsula itself is but one hundred and thirty miles ; and this it shares every where with Patani, a chain of high mountains running north and south, dividing its breadth between them. The boundary to the north, between Queda and Siam, is L^nggu, in latitude & 50', and that between it and Ferak Kurao, about the latitude of 6\ Besides the territory on the main, several large islands belong to this state. The principal of these is Liingkawi, which is twenty-five miles long, and which has a consi- derable share of culture and population. Trutao, the next in size, is fifteen miles in length, and has but few inhabitants. The character of this territory in general is, that of being extremely woody, marshy, and mountainous. From L^ng- gu to Kurao, inclusive —for both these give names to rivers— there are coimted not less than AND COCHIN CHINA. 43 six-and-thirty streams. Six of these are of very considerable size, and might be useful both to commerce and agriculture. In the range of hills in the interior, there are many mountains of a great height; and J^rai, a detached one near the western coast, is supposed to be six thousand feet high. Although the country is little cultivated, it does not seem to be desti*- tute of fertility ; and its capacity of production is satisfactorily shown in its power of supply- ing the principal consumption of Penang, now possessed of a population nearly equalling its own. The country is supposed to contain from 40 to 50,000 inhabitants, divided, according to ancient custom, into one hundred and five petty districts, each of forty-four families. By ano- ther old institution, the country was classified and sub-divided into petty divisions, each of twenty-four houses.* If we can rely upon the information of Commodore Beaulieu, who visit- ed this country in 1630, it must have contain- ed, seven years before his visit, a population of 60,000 souls; for he tells us that an epidemic which raged about that time, carried off 40,000, or two-thirds of the whole number. The indigenous inhabitants of the territory of Queda, consist of four classes ; namely, Malays, * Called t&ngga^ or stairs; every dwelling-bouse having a stair to it. 4<4 EMBASSY TO SI AM Samsams, Siamese, and S&mangs ; but chiefly of the two former, among whom the second are said to be the most numerous. By Samsams are meant people of the Siamese race, who have adopted the Mohammedan religion, and who speak a language which is a mixed jargon of the languages of the two people; a matter which, in the opinion of the latter, brings some reproach with it. The following is a specimen. " Saya na pai naik keh bun gunung." " I want to ascend the mountain ;" in which the first word is Malay, the two next Siamese, the fourth Malay, the fifth and sixth Siamese, and the seventh or last Malay again. The S^mang are the same Negro race found from the Andamans to New Guinea. They are here distinguished into two races, the S^mang and Bila; the latter holding no intercourse what- ever with the inhabitants of the plains, but the former frequenting the villages, and carrying on some traffic with the more civilized inhabitants. Neither have any fixed habitation, and roaming through the woods, exist chiefly on the produce of their hunting, feeding indiscriminately upon every description of animal, whether quadruped or reptile. They appear to be a timid and harm- less race. The revenue of the petty chief of Queda amounted to about 42,000 Spanish dollars a- year. The country, from the earliest know- AND COCHIN CHINA. 45 ledge of Europeans, has been a tributary or vas- sal state of Siam; and, besides contributing in war to. the assistance of the paramount state, in men, arms, and provisions, by immemorial usage, the King of Queda sends to Siam, in common with other Malayan princes, a triennial token of submission, in the form of a little tree of gold, which hence comes to be applied by the Malays of these parts to any tribute what- ever. About the beginning of the seventeenth century, Queda was conquered by Achin, which held it for some years in a state of vassalage. Jan. 9. — Yesterday morning we were in sight of the islands usually called in the maritime charts the Dindings, (correctly Pangkur, for Dinding is the name of a place on the opposite main,) and the group of islets farther south, called by the Malays, Pulo^ Sambilan, or the Nine Isles. We gratified our curiosity by land- ing on the largest Dinding. The sea-breeze carried us in between this island and the main- land of Perak, with which it forms a beautiful and safe harbour, running north and south, and seemingly sheltered from every wind. After rounding the south point of the island, of which we sailed within one hundred yards, we came upon a little cove, with a sandy beach, and here landed. The island consists of abrupt hills of a few hundred feet high, clothed with tall wood almost to the water's edge. Except in one or 46 EMBASSY TO 8IAM two spots, such as that on which we landed, there was no beach, the coast being fonned of great blocks of granite, the only rock which we any where perceived. Tin ore is asserted to be found on the island. It is utterly uncultivated and uninhabited ; but near the landing-plaoe we observed two or three temporary and unoccu- pied huts thrown up, consisting of a few boughs of trees and some long grass. This is a famous haunt of pirates, and our Malay interpreters in- formed us that these huts were of their con- struction. In the seventeenth century, the Dutch occupied the island as a post to control the trade of the countrj', and chiefly to secure a monopoly of the tin of the Malay principality of Perak. Dampier, who visited this place in the year l689f gives an accurate description of it. Relying upon his known fidelity, we sought for the re^ mains of the Dutch fort, and found it exactly as he described it. The brick walls are still stand- ing after a lapse of one hundred and thirty-two years ; concealed, however, from the first view, by the forest which has grown round them. The fort was merely a square building of masonry of about thirty feet to a side. A platform, about sixteen feet high, contained the guns and troops, and in the walls were eight round embrasures for cannon, and sixteen loop-holes for fire-arms. The governor and officers' apartments were in the upper-story. There was but one entrance AND COCHIN CHINA. 47 to the fort, and this by a flight of steps to- wards the sea-side. Dampier tells us that the governor had a detached house near the sea, where he passed the day, but which, for secu- rity, he always abandoned for the fort at night ; and accordingly we found, in the situation he mentions, the terrace on which the house in question stood, with fragments of broken bot- tles and coarse china-ware scattered here and there in its neighbourhood. The whole appear- ance of the place conveyed a very good picture of the state of alarm and distrust in which the garrison perpetually lived — the effect of the law- less and unprofitable object in which they were engaged. Dampier tells a very ludicrous story to this effect : — While the captain of his ship and a passenger, with his wife, were entertained by the Dutch governor, in his house without the fort, an alarm was given of the appearance of Malays ! His Excellency, without any warning to his guests, bolted out of one of the windows, and ran off to the fort, followed by all his ser- vants and attendants. The feast was left stand- ing, and the garrison began to fire the great guns, by way of giving the Malays to understand that they were prepared for them. The year after Dampier visited it, the garrison was cut off, nor have 1 heard that it was ever re-established. We discovered that the place had not been without some occasional European visitors, for on the 48 EMBASSY TO 6IAM plaster of the embrasures were carved the initials of several names, and in very plain figures, the years 1727, 1754, and 1821. This isUmd, like others in these latitudes, affords a rich field for the botanist. Mr. Finlayson here discovered a new epidendron, of gigantic dimensions. The flowering stem was six feet long, and had from ninety to one hundred flowers upon it, each of which was two and a half inches broad, and four inches long, of a rich yellow colour, spotted with brown, and emitting a very agreeable fragrance. Deer and wild hogs seem to abound in the is- land ; for we discovered many of their tracks in the sand. As an European establishment, with which view it has been contemplated, this island, though the harbour be good, more easily accessible than any other which has been named for such a pur- pose, and far more in the direct track of active commerce than Penang, is certainly, upon the whole, unsuitable. It is, on the one hand, too far within the Straits for a place of resort and refreshment for our navy coming from the Bay of Bengal ; and, on the other, much too far to the west, to be an emporium for the commerce of the nations to the eastward of the Straits of Malacca. Independent of these primary ob- jections, there seems scarcely a spot in the island level enough for cultivation, or even for con- venient and comfortable habitation. The pros- AND COCHIN CHINA. 49 pect of deriving any benefit from the working of tin-mines in this island, even under an Eu- ropean Government, supposing the ore to exist in sufficient abundance, appears to me to be more than questionable. The whole island is an abrupt hard granite rock, from which ore could not be extracted with any profit in the state of skill and industry which exists among the natives of the country, or even among the Chi- j nese themselves. In Banca, and other places where abundance of tin is produced, the ore is found in situations extremely different, that is, in sitreams through the soil of the low lands, from which it is easily extracted, readily smelted, and finally when smelted, affording a metal of supe- rior value to what is obtained by the laborious process of mining in rocky districts. Jan. H. — We had now passed the territories of Perak and Salangore. Ferak contains one hun- dred and five mohims^ or petty parishes, and is said to be more populous than Queda. It ex- tends about seventy-five miles along the coast, in by far the broadest part of the whole penin^ sula. This is the most productive part of the western coast in tin. I have never heard any exact statement of the quantity it yields, but of the 15,000 piculs, or about 2,000,000lbs, imported yearly into Penang, a very large share is from VOL. I. E 50 EMBASSY TO SIAM thiH country.* Perak, like Queda, is a vassal of Stain, and iK'ing refractory, about two years ago^ waH rcHluced to subjection by the Queda ChieC in conseciuence of orders from the LfOrd Pan- mount. Salan^re extends about ninety-six miles skmg the coast, where the peninsula begins to grow narrow. This is a very petty state, and inferior in population to Perak and Queda. The reign- ing family is Bugis of the Waju race that is of the most commercial and enterprising of the na- tions of ColelH?s. In this state, at a place called Lukot, situated immediately to the north of Cape Racliado, a valuable tin mine has lately been dis- covered, and is now worked. ./r/;/. la. — Last night we came into the roads of Malacca, saluting a Dutch sloop of war and the fort ; and this morning, about ten o'clock, we landed in the Dutch Governor's accommodation- lH)at, wliieli had been politely sent for us. On landing, we were received on the wharf by the Ciovernor's secTetary, charged with an invitation from Mr. Timmerman Tysen, the Grovemor, whom I had had the pleasure of knowing some years l)efore at Batavia. Such of our party as could be acconnnodated accepted the invitation, and the rest t(K)k up their residence in the town. * lu produce is reckoned at 4000 piculs, of 133Jlbs. of avoirdupois. AND COCHIN CHINA. 61 This morning I walked round the hill of Malacca, apd surveyed those ruined fortifications which, under the Portuguese, had resisted twelve sieges. On the top of the hill, which is about a hun- dred feet high, are the ruins of the Portuguese church of St. Paul, still a conspicuous landmark in approaching the roads. It was built soon after the Portuguese conquest, and towards the be- ginning of the sixteenth century. The Dutch, after getting possession of Malacca, used it as a Protestant church and burying-ground ; and hence the unusual spectacle which it presents of the tombs of conquerors and conquered. Catholics, and heretics, blended together in one spot. Withi. out reading the inscriptions, the tombstones of the respective people are to be recognised by thdu* age, and the different materials of which they consist. The Portuguese tombs are of gra- nite from China, and the Dutch of a hard black tmp rock from the Coromandel coast, for neither Malacca nor its vicinity afford either. Among the tombstcmes we read, in very distinct charac- ters, and in the Latin language, the inscription on that of Dominus Petrus, second Bishop of Ja- pan, who is stated to have died in the Straits of Singapore, in the year 1598. The body of St. Fntficis Xavier, the Apostle of the Indies, who died in China, once reposed here, but the jsacred relic was disinterred and finally conveyed to Goa. Jan. 14. — I called upon Mr. Milne this fore- £ 2 A 52 EMBASSY TO SIAM noon. This industrious and highly respectable character is an Englishman by birth, and the second in rank of the Protestant Mission to China, in connexion with the Malay, denomi- nated the Ultra-Gangetic Mission. This frater- nity has been established at Malacca since the year 1815, and since 1818 an Anglo-Chinese College has been established, the chief olgect of which institution is the cidtivation of Chinese and English literature, and the diffusion of Christianity in the countries and islands lying to the eastward of Penang. Mr. Milne is one of the best Chinese scholars living, and the result of his indefatigable labours is, a version of the Scriptures, in great progress, a periodical work in the Chinese language, another in English, called ** The Indo-Chinese Gleaner," and a little volume, entitled, "A Retrospect of the First Ten Years of the Protestant Mission to China,*' which last contains some excellent remarks on the manners and literature of the Indo-Chinese nations. These have all issued from the press of the senu- nary itself at Malacca. The labours of such men as Mr. Milne, Dr. Morrison, Dr. Carey, and Mr. Marchman, are of incalculable benefit to the cause of humanity and civilization, while it is acknowledged on every side, that their means and motives are equally unexceptionable and pure. Mr. Milne, in conversation, furnished us with some valuable hints respecting the olgects AND COCHIN CHINA. 53 of our Embassy to Cochin China, and withr notes on the geography and commerce of that country ; the result of his inquiries among the traders j&om thence, who have of late years visited the Straits of Malacca. Jan. 16. — Last night Mr. Timmerman, the Go- vernor, gave a ball and supper, in compliment to the departure of the military officers of the station, relieved by fresh troops from Batavia. Besides the inhabitants of the place, the party consisted of the officers of three Dutch men-of* war lying at the time in the Roads. This occa- sion gave us an opportunity of observing the manners and appearance of the colonists. Out of -thirty-seven ladies, two or three only were Europeans, and tlie rest bom in the country, with a large admixture of Asiatic blood. The female dress, of the younger part, was in the English fashion; and a very few only of the elderly ladies dressed in the Malay kabaya, a sort of loose gown, or wore the hair in the Malay fashion. The long residence of the English in the Dutch colonies,— the influence of the French, and lately, of their own more polished country, women, — have nearly banished these external marks of barbarism. Before the last ten years, the habits and costume of the female Dutch colonists partook more of the Asiatic than the European* Instead of Dutch, they spoke a barbfurous dialect of Malay ; they were habited, 54 EMBASSY TO SIAM as I have described, in the dress of that people ; they chewed the pawn-leaf publidy» and even in the ball-room each fair dame had before her an enormous brass ewer to receive the refuse of her mastication. Jan. 17. — We re-embarked last evening, the Dutch Governor .politely attending us to the wharf, and at eight at night, a fine sea^-breeze having set in, we weighed and made sail to- wards SingapcM^, in company with a Dutdi corvette. — The following is a short sketch of the place we had just left, the result of pre- vious inquiry, as well as of examination on the spot. The territory of Malacca is forty miles in length along the sea, and extends thirty miles inland. The principality of Salangore bounds it to the north at Cape Rachado. Jehor bounds it to the south, at the river Mora, and the territory of Kumbo to the east. The largest mountain in the territory of Malacca is Ledang, which the Portuguese, and other Europeans in imitation of them, have denominated Mount Ophir. This is distant from Malacca twenty- four miles, in a straight direction, and thirty- two by the windings of a very bad road. Its height is about 4000 feet. Besides a number of p^tty streams, there are in the territory of Malacca two considerable rivers, namely, Mc»t^ already named, and Lingituah, the embouchure of which is a little to the south of Cape Ra^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 55 • chado. The granitic formation, which charac- terises the countries we have hitherto visited, partially disappears* at Malacca; the whole terrir tory of which, as far as we could learn, is one uniform mass of cellular iron-ore. The valuable minerals found within the territory of Malacca are gold and tin ; but the first, nowhere in suf- ficient abundance to have fixed the imperfect industry of the native inhabitants ; of the se- cond, it is said to produce 4000 piculs. The soil must be considered as decidedly deficient in fertility, for ,at no period of its history does Malacca appear to have been capable of sup- plying its own scanty population with bread com. Bad government must not be assigned as the sole cause, for Malacca has had various fcNrms of European government ; aU of them, however bad or imperfect, generally superior to the native governments of several neighbouring countries, producing an abundant supply of grain. Fruits, the perfection of which depends more, in these latitudes, upon the culture they receive than upon the quality of the soil, and which are never skilfully cultivated but by Eu- ropeans, are produced in great excellence and variety at Malacca. Seventy-two species have been produced at once at a dessert; but, of course, the greater number very worthless. The mangustin and pine-apple are unrivalled at this place. The durian, the orange, the plantain, the 56 EMBASSY TO SIAM shaddock, and the dukuh, are also veiy iSne. Poultry and hogs are of good quality, and in abundance, but sheep do not exist, and honied cattle are scarce. The present population of the town of Ma- lacca and its territory is 22,000; a number which does not seem to have varied for at least the last six-and-twenty years ; a fact which pro- claims in intelligible language the decrease of wealth, or at least the absence of prosperity. A place which has been the seat of European commerce for three centuries, and was for more than two centuries and a half before in the possession of an active and commercial race of natives, and yet contains little more than eigh- teen inhabitants to a square mile, must be con- sidered as labouring imder some natural, and perhaps insuperable defects.* The permanent inhabitants of Malacca are the Malays, a brown-coloured race of savages, with lank hair, called Benua and Jakong; a race of Hindu colonists from Telinga; the descendants of the Portuguese conquerors ; and those of the Dutch. To this list may be added the usual admixture of Chinese, and of Mohammedans of the coast of Coromandel. To a brief account * While we occupied Malacca, during the ^var^ its popula- tion was estimated at 25,000. The Dutch estimated it, as stated in the text, at 22,000. By a census, or estimate, made in 1827» it is reduced to 16,000. AND COCHIN CHINA. 57 of these, I shall premise a short sketch of the history of Malacca. — About the middle of the twelfth century, when Europeans were as yet in ignorance of the existence of such a people, a colony of Malays, from Menangkabao, or per- haps more correctly from the north coast of Su- matra generally, are said to have settled at Sin- gapura, at the extremity of the Malay peninsula, the very spot on which we ourselves have lately formed an establishment. After a residence short of a century at this place, they were driven from it by the Javanese, and retiring to the west- ward, founded Malacca in the year 1252. Four- and-twenty years after this event they were con- verted to the Mohammedan religion, and two hundred and fifty-nine years later they were con- quered by the Portuguese, who, after one hun- dred and twenty-nine years possession, were expelled by the Dutch. The Malay popula- tion of Malacca are the reputed descendants of the first colonists from Sumatra. The Jakong and the Benua are wild races of men living in the deep forests of the interior of the pen- insula, being spread over the territories of Ma- lacca, Rumbo, and Jehor. They exist principally in the hunter state, some of the least uncivilized practising a little rude husbandry. Their per- sons are nearly naked, and their habitations ex- tremely rude. A death happening in a tribe is always the signal for abandoning their habi- 58 EMBASSY TO SIAM tations, and taking up a new encampment They appear to practise no cruel rites^ and in their manners to be altogether extremely inof- fensive. What renders this wild i>eople most remarkable^ is their differing totally in language and physical form from the Negro races which inhabit the interior of the more northern parts of the peninsula. They are, in fact, Malays in the savage state. Doctor Leyden, who visited them hi 1811, on our way to the conquest of Java, could discover in their language but seven* and-twenty words which differed from oommcm Malay ; and on examination of the specimens he gives, I find, that at least six or seven of these are extremely doubtful ; while two or three ap- pear original Malay words, for which Sanscrit ones have been substituted in the more modem dialect. Whether this rude people be the true original stock of the wide-spread race of the Ma- lays, or a degenerated one from the colonists of Sumatra, before their conversion to l^loliamme- danism, is a matter not very easily determined. With respect to the Malays of the neighbouring state of liumbo having emigrated from Sumatra, there is no question made. Other Malays deno- minate them " people of Menangkabao ;*' they speak the precise language of the people of this last country, ending their words always with a short o instead of a short a, as done by other Malays. A friendly intercourse is always main- AND COCHIN CHINA. 59* tained betwe^i the two states; Menangkabao being acknowledged the paramount one, and the Prince of Rumbo receiving a regular investiture from that country. The Hindus of Malacca are the only ultrama- rine colonists of that people of whom I have heard. The popular notion of its being forbidden to Hindus to quit their country by sea, is suffi- ciently contradicted by their existence ; and how indeed, without supposing such emigration, are we, in common sense, to account for the once wide spread of their religion among the distant islands of the Indian Ocean. The Malacca colony amounts at present to about two hundred and fifty families, and in the more prosperous days of the settlement, is said to have been far more nu- merous. The colonists are of the Telinga, or Kalinga nation, and at present composed only of the third and fourth, or mercantile and servile dasses of the Hindu orders. Not a great many years ago, there were still a few Bramins and Chatrias among them. The Malacca Hindus practise all the ordinary rites of the Hindu worship ; they refuse to eat with persons of other religions ; and in their food reject beef and pork, but consume fish, goat's flesh, and fowls. Those erf the mercantile order employ themselves as tnders, accountants, and assayers of gold, in which laM; occupation they have a high reputation both for skill and fidelity. Persons of the lower 60 EMBASSY TO SIAM order ure employed in the usual oocupations of the servile class, including agriculture. The fa- mily of Bisara Seti, the present chief of this tribe, from whom I derive my information, settled in Malacca one hundred and forty-tliree yean ago ; but he can give no information respecting the establishment of the first colonists. He states generally, however, that the greater number set- tled at Malacca during the Portuguese rule* When the Hindu settlers first came over, they were unattended by their families^ and formed connexions with the women of the countiy, par- ticularly with those of Celebes ; they soon how- ever abandoned this practice, as is evident enougli from their preserving the genuine Hindu features, and a stature considerably beyond that of the islanders. The Portuguese amount to 4000, and are all of the lowest order. Although with a great ad- mixture of Asiatic blood, the European features are still strongly marked in them. I have no doubt there are among them many of the lineal descendants of the haughty, intolerant, and brave men, who fought by the side of Albuquerque ; but they certainly inherit no part of the character of their ancestors, and are a timid, peaceable, and submissive race. They offer to us a spectacle not frequently presented in the East — that of men bearing the European name, and wearing the European garb, engaged in the humblest occu- AND COCHIN CHINA. 61 pations of life, for we find them employed as domestic servants, as day labourers, and as fisher* men. Malacca is probably doomed to sink into still greater insignificance than that into which it has already fallen, but it is associated in our minds with one of the most interesting events in the history of our species — the discovery of a new route to the Indies, and the heroic achievements of the Portuguese which immediately followed it. We cannot, as Europeans, but survey with pride the spot on which stood the bridge by which Albuquerque, at the head of 700 Europeans, stormed walls and intrenchments that were guard- ed by 30,000 barbarians — an achievement superior to any of those of Pizarro, inasmuch as the Ma- lays were a braver and even more civilized enemy than the Americans. An Englishman will see, with some mortification, the ruins of the fortifi- cation which the Portuguese constructed shortly after the conquest It surrounded the little hill, on the top of which was the church of St. Paul's, akeady mentioned. The walls were of solid ma- fionry, and of the iron-stone of the country. To the west it was protected by the sea, to the north by the river, and it had a moat to the other two sides. This specimen of the art of fortification in the beginning of the sixteenth century, the only one existing in these parts, and the pride and trust of the native inhabitants, was, by a piece 62 EMBASSY TO 8IAM of policy, e({ually bwrbarous and w blown up by us in the year 1807. The Dutch support at Malacca a moat unne- cessary civil and military establishment, which, in- dependent of the revenue of the place itself, costs them three lacks of rupees, or near SO.OOO^ a- year. In a place remarkable for the peaceable character of its inhabitants, and without an en«ny, European or native, they have an effective body of 400 troops, besides keeping on foot a militia or burgher corps. Fifty regular soldiers would have been quite adequate to the protection of the place, and a municipal establishment upon the humblest scale the most suitable for its good government.* Malacca, in every stage of its history, owed its prosperity to its being the only port in the Straits of Malacca, where tliere was tolerable se- curity for life and property. The Dutch them<- selves did much towards its ruin by the highly illiberal system of exclusive trade, which they long persevered in. The establishment of Pe- nang, on different principles, brought the matter nearly to a crisis, and tliat of Singapore has ODili^' * Shortly after this passage was \iTitten, the Dutch judici- ously reduced both their civil and military establishments. The place, as is sufficiently known, is now a British posaessioa, tad although not likely to be of much value, it may be rendered at least not burthensomc to us, if its establishments be kept within the bounds of moderation. For taking an opposite course^ it would be extremely diificult to find any pretext. AMU COCHIN CHINA. 63 j^eted its fall. The symptoms of decay are too striking to escape observation, and the traveller who has quitted either of those settlements, can- not fail to contrast their industry and activity with the lifeless dulness which reigns at Malacca. Jan. 18. — At daylight this morning we had Pulo Pisang behind us, Pulo Kakab to our left, and the Carimons and other islands to our right, with Tanjung Bulus, (correctly. Euros,) the most southern extremity of the continent of Asia, in latitude V 15' north, before us. We bore down upon the Carimotis, with a view of making some inquiry respecting them; and at ten o'clock landed upon the Little Carimon, the latitude of the northern end of which is 1** frj' north. This island is about two miles long, and the highest part of it perhaps about 500 feet in height. The whole is high land, covered with a lofty forest, and the coast steep and rocky. The island is uninhabited, and indeed, from its formation and aspect, does not appear a fit resi*- dence for man in any stage of civilization. The Great Carimon is divided from the little one by a very narrow and deep gut. It is twelve miles in length, by five in breadth ; has a great deal of low land, apparently suited for culture ; and two peaked mountains about the centre, the highest of which did not appear to us to be less than 1800 or 2000 feet high. I am told there are a few Malay settlers upon it. To the west of 64 EMBASSY TO SIAM the Carimons are distinctly visible many islands* the very names of which are miknown to Eu- ropeans. We examined, with considerable attention, that side of the Little Carimon on whidi we landed. The rock of which it is composed is porphyritic homstone, varying in appearance as the grain is larger or smaller: it is extremely hard and flinty, and exhibits a conchoidical fracture. The surface of the rock has every where a honeycombed appearance ; and the hol- lows, when examined, are discovered to be drusy cavities, many of them containing portions of secondary limestone. One of these cavities I measured, and found to be four feet three inches long, two feet broad, and eighteen inches deep.* Jan. 19. — At twelve o'clock to-day we passed the narrow channel of the Rabbit and Coney, the western entrance of the Straits of Singa- pore, and soon found ourselves surrounded in every direction by beautiful verdant islands. The sea was smooth, the sky clear, and the whole prospect equally novel and pleasing. From the * In the autumn of 1825, while resident of Singapore, I ri- lited the Carimon Island (correctly written Krimun) ; the hom- ^tone mentioned in the text is confined to the coast, and is aierely a partial and overlaying formation. The interior is com- T)osed pf granite, with veins of white quartzl, and abounds in TitA 5nliahitj»*if.f -^f th«* Ip^'ger i»l«nd awiount to 400 in AND COCHIN CHINA. 65 deck there could be counted between fifty and sixty green and woody islands of various dimen- sions, and from the mast-head above seventy, I do not believe there is any part of the world which can afford a prospect, in its way, of su- perior beauty, and this indeed has been observed and confessed by all voyagers. At six o'clock we anchored in Singapore Roads. Jan. 21. — Last night my old friend Colonel Farquhar, resident of Singapore, sent his staff, Captain Davies, on board to invite us on shore. We landed this morning ; and Mr. Scott, a mer- chant of this new settlement, and the son of my respected friend, Mr. Robert Scott, an experi- enced and most intelligent merchant of Penang, hospitably and obligingly gave his house up for our accommodation. In the evening we dined with Colonel Farquhar, and went through the greater part of the new settlement. Notwith- standing the state of abeyance in which the poli- tical question regarding the settlement was in- volved, there was universally an air of animation and activity. Several miles of new road were already formed, and the habitations were so nu- merous, and the population so great, that we could hardly imagine that the whole was the cre- ation of three short years. Jan. 23. — We had to-day a visit from some individuals of the race of Malays, called Orftng- laut,— that is, " men of the sea." They have a VOL. I. F 66 EMBASSY TO SIAM rough exterior, and their speedi is awkward and uncouth ; but, in other respects, I could observe little essential difference between them and other Malays. These people have adopted the Mohammedan religion. They are divided into, at least, twenty tribes, distinguished usu- ally by the straits or narrow seas they princi- pally frequent. A few of them have habita- tions on shore, but by far the greater nimiber live constantly in their boats, and nearly their sole occupation is fishing; those who are most civilized cultivating a few bananas. They are subjects of the King of Johore, and the same }>eople who have been called Orang SaBat, or, " men of the straits ;" — the straits here alluded to being, not the great Straits of Malacca^ which are extensive beyond their comprehension, but the narrow guts running among the little islets that are so abundantly strewed over its eastern entrance. Under this appellation they have been notorious for their piracies, from the earliest knowledge of Europeans respecting these coun- tries. Jan. 27. — We went yesterday morning along the coast, to the westward, and visited the new harbour, or S» ceed. They were determined, if possible, to reach Siam before the vernal equinox;— the period of a great festival of the worshippers of Buddha, and which, by all accounts, is celebrated at Siam with much solemnity. Parts of their invest- ment were intended for the celebration of the festival ; and as they had been absent fourteen months, they had some apprehension of the bas- tinado, or something worse, if they did not arrive without farther loss of time. I had before ob- tained from them a great deal of useful informa- tion ; but as we approached Siam they became much more shy and reserved, and now com- municated nothing without a strict injunction to secrecy. They constantly resisted our solici- tations to assist in translating the Governor- general's letter into Siamese, — observing, that the communication of his Majesty's titles would be considered as the divulgement of a state se- cret, which might cost them their lives. The commander, who spoke Hindustani imperfectly, passed his hand over his neck on such occa- sions, to represent the operation of a sword, that no doubt might be entertained of the na- ture of his apprehensions. Feb. 10. — Mr. Finlayson and I visited, this mornuig, a Cochin Chinese, a Chin-chew, or Fo- AND COCHIN CHINA. 75 kien, and a Siamese junk.* Our interpreter accompanied us, and we had therefore an op- portunity of making some interesting observa- tions regarding their internal economy, ma- nagement, and trade. We were received by all with uncommon civility and attention ; but the people of Fo-kien, who are least accus- tomed to Europeans, were remarkable for the earnestness of their hospitality, which much more than compensates for the rusticity and bluntness of their manners. They pressed us to sit down, to eat with them, to drink tea with them, and to smoke their pipes ; and when we apologized for the number of our inquiries, the commander assured us, that we did them honour by taking an interest in their affairs. It is the custom, when persons of any respec- tability visit the Chinese junks, to beat the ^ gongs at their arrival and departure; and this compliment was paid to us. The Cochin Chi- nese junk can:ied 4000 piculs, or was of the bur- then of about 240 tons. Her crew consisted of the commander, two officers, and thirty-two men ; and the sailors were paid for the voyage from Saigun to Singapore, calculated to last about three months, at the rate of twenty Spanish dollars a-head, which gives about seven Spanish • Junk is apparently ah European corruption of the Malay word Jung, the common term for any large vessel. 76 EMBASSY TO SIAM dollars a-month» being equal to the wages of an able seaman in our country ; whereas, the quan- tity of labour he performs, even in his own way, amounts numerically to only one half; twice the number of Chinese being required to the same amount of tonnage as there would of European mariners. The Chinese sailors are of course fed, and at sea receive salt pork, salt fish, occasionally poultry, with rice, and sour or salt krout; and when in harbour, they receive fresh animal food and fresh vegetables. The charge of feeding a sailor from Cochin China is reckoned at a dol- lar and a quarter a-month, but from Canton it amounts to full three dollars. The Fo-kien junk was a small vessel of 1600 piculs, or near ninety- five tons; and the Siamese junk was of 1500 piculs, or about ninety tons. The first, cost in the river of Kamboja, where she was built, 4000 dollars ; and would have cost in Canton, had she been constructed there, 5000. The second was built in Fo-kien, and cost no less than 8000 dollars. The Siamese junk was built in the river of Siam, and cost only 1350 dollars. The cost of building per ton, according to this state- ment, is at the following rates : Dollars. Cents, Siamese junk . 15 per ton. Cochin Chinese do. . 16 66 Canton do. . 20 83 Fo-kien do. . . 30 58 AND COCHIN CHINA. 77 It ought, however, to be remarked, that the Chi- ( nese junks are built of fir ; whereas, the Siamese one has her upper works entirely of fine teak, and her lower of a hard, durable wood, the name of which I could not ascertain. Admitting, how- ever, that the materials of both were of the same quality, we have here exhibited a fair com- parative scale of the price of food, labour, and materials in the different countries in question ; for the degree of skill must be supposed to be the same, the Chinese being, in till these cases, the architects and workmen. Labour and mate- rials are cheapest in Siam and Kamboja ; twenty- five per cent, dearer at Canton ; and more than one hundred per cent, dearer in Fo-kien, which has, notwithstanding, by far the largest share of the foreign Asiatic trade of China. All Chinese junks are, with trifling variation, ^ built on one model, indescribably awkward and clumsy; but from which, notwithstanding, it is forbidden by law to deviate. In point of con- venience of structure, they are much inferior to the trading craft of the rudest tribes of the Indian islands; a circumstance which, notwithstanding the superiority of the Chinese in industry, in- telligence, and enterprise, proves a serious and indeed insuperable obstacle to any great success in their foreign commerce. The hold of a junk is, as is well known, divided into compartments, across the vessel's length. The number of these 78 EMBASSY TO SIAM varies. The large Cochin Chinese junk which we had just inspected was divided into six compart^ ments, and the small Fo-kien junk into no less than fifteen. All the compartments are sepa- rately waterproof, and their sole intention is to add strength to the ship» and, in case of leaking, to prevent the water from extending beyond the subdivision in which the leak actually takes place. The Chinese are ignorant of the use of the pump on board a ship, and have no means of discharging the water but by hand-buckets. The only guide of the Chinese mariner appears to be the compass. Each of the junks we visited had a small one divided into twenty-four parts, as usual. This was placed close to the little temple near the stern of the ship, dedicated to the pro- tecting deities of the winds and seas, which is invariably found in Chinese vessels. They have no instruments whatever for observing the hea- venly bodies, nor any means even of determining a vessel's dead reckoning, and they keep no log or journal. When the wind is not tolerably fair, they can make little progress. When the wind is aft, however, they sail tolerably well. The commander of the Cochin Chinese junk told me, that at the height of the north-east monsoon,, he sailed right before the wind from Pulo Kon- dor, on the coast of Kamboja, to Pulo Timun, on the coast of the Malay peninsula, in three days and a half, a distance of about four hun- AND COCHIN CHINA. 79 dred and thirty miles, which is at the rate of one hundred and twenty-three miles a-day, or little more than five miles an hour. With the winds which he had, it is not improbable that an or- dinary English merchant-ship would have sailed at least eight miles, and a good one perhaps twice the distance of the Chinese junk. By the same person's account, the ordinary rate at which money can be borrowed in Cochin China, for ma- ritime adventure, is forty-eight per cent, and the expected rate of profits is proportional, — namely, from eighty to one hundred per cent. The commander of a ship is usually part ow- ner of her, and the goods are received on freight, the shippers commonly embarking with their own property, which, however, is always under charge of the commander during the voyage, the pro- prietors having no access to them. On the Co- chin Chinese junk, the rate of freight paid for goods I found to be as follows : fine goods, as cottons and silk stuffs, five per cent. ; tea, ten per cent. ; sugar, twenty per cent. ; and rice, forty per cent. In the Fo-kien junk, the freight paid for black tea was one dollar forty cents per picul; which, allowing nine and a half pi- culs for each ton, is at the rate of thirteen dol- lars thirty cents. While on the subject of the trade and naviga- tion of the Chinese, I may take the opportunity of mentioning the very singular species of ad- 80 EAJBASST TO SIAM venture carried on by them in the Straits of Ma- lacca, in large row-boats, commonly known by the native name of prahu pukaL* One of these which I measured, was about sixty-five feet long, nine feet in the beam, and about four feet in depth, and carried a cargo of from one hundred and eighty to one hundred and ninety piculs, or near twenty tons. She was rowed by twelve oars and fourteen paddles, and had the occasional as- sistance of a sail with fair winds. She had a crew, consisting of the conunander and twenty- six rowers. Such a boat is usually the property of the commander, and the cargo belongs to the crew, each according to the capital he has cmi- tributed to the joint adventure. There is not one idle person on board ; for the commander steers, and each of the adventurers has his oar or his paddle. Their adventures are confined be- tween the islands at the eastern extremity of the Straits of ^Malacca, and tlie town of that name, out of the influence of the monsoons, and under the protection of the variable winds which cha- racterize these latitudes.f From the rapidity of their course, they are quite secure from the at- tack of pirates. The voyage backwards and for- * Literally a seine-boat, — this description of vessel having probably been first used for fishing with a net of that descrip- tion. t In the westerly monsoon they often pass out of the Straits of Malacca, visiting the dififerent trading ports on the eastern shore of the Malay Peninsula. AND COCHIN CHINA. 81 wards, may, of course, be performed at every season. In fair weather, one of them will sail between the Island of Linga and Singapore in two days ; and in the least favourable weather, in six ; performing the voyage, therefore, on an average,, in four days. The distance is about one hundred and eighty miles ; so that these boats go, under the most favourable circum- stances, at the rate of ninety miles a-day, or close upon four knots an hour, and, at an average, forty.five miles a-day. Three voyages may be performed in a month, if the state of the markets do not occasion extraordinary delays. When pepper is the cargo, as very frequently happens, the adventurers are contented, I am told, with a profit of three-fourths of a dollar per picul, when the selling price of this commodity is ten dollars. This supposes a profit of 8ro per tent, on each adventure. During the last month I had many personal and favourable opportunities of inquiring into the manners and habits of the Or^ing-laut. The term is used to characterize the race of Malays who have their habitations exclusively on the sea, in opposition to those who have fixed abodes on shore, — the OrSng-darat, or " men of dry land.** They are sometimes called OrSng-sJilat, or ** men of the straits," under which appella- tion they have been stigmatized for their piracy as long ago as the time of John De Barros, whose VOL. I. G 82 EMBASSY TO SIAM work was oomposed in the sixteenth century. At other times we hear them called ByaUt or *' Subjects ;" — that is to say, subjects of . the king of Jehor ; but under this name, too, their repu- tation is no better, for the Western Malays use the term Jehor as synonymous with that of pi- rate or robber. I had no conception that any of the tribes bearing the Malay name were in so low a state of civilization as these people are. By far the greater number of them are bom, live, and die in their miserable canoes, and the few who live occasionally on shore are scarcely more comfortably situated. These are ignorant of the culture of rice, and plant very few roots, neither do they cultivate the cocoa nut, a plant which conduces so much to the comfort of the other tribes of the eastern islands. The plantain, or hananOy from the rapidity of its growth, and the volume of food which it supplies, is the great object of their attention in an agricultu- ral view. Whether their habitation be on land or water, fishing is the great employment of the Orilng-laut; and what they do not consume themselves, forms the only fund from which they are supplied with the other common necessaries of life. In their general character, they are indo- lent, improvident, and defective in personal clean- liness. Like the other islanders, however, they are neither selfish, cunning, nor mendacious. In their extetnal demeanour they are clownish, their AND COCHIN CHINA. 83 manners unceremonious, and their dialect un- couth ; but, withal, their behaviour is neither rude nor disrespectful. Of the character they exhibit in their predatory excursions, I am not compe-* tent to judge, but it is sufficiently bad. A more accurate test, however, of this people's state in society than can be conveyed by a gene- ral description,, is afforded by a short sketch of the actual expense of their mode of life. A house costs about five dollars, and the best sel- dom above twenty. A dwelling boat costs no more than six dollars, and a fishing canoe about four. The only furniture, if there is any at all, is a bedstead and pillows, worth four dol- lars, and a cast-iron cooking-pot, of Chinese or ^ Siamese manufacture, worth about half a dollar. With the art of weaving these people are ut- terly unacquainted, and, as far as they are clo- thed at all, they are clothed in foreign manu- factures. The sarongs or lower garment, of both sexes, irf the manufacture of Celebes; it costs four dollars, and lasts four years. The turban, or rather handkerchief, which binds the head of the men, is the manufacture of the same coun- try; it costs half a dollar, and lasts at least as long as the sarong. The vest of both sexes is white doth of Coromandel, or at least what has once been white. The principal vegetable food of the Oriing-laut is crude sago, which is not the produce of their own country, but received G a 84 EMBASSY TO SI All by them from certain low islands on the north coast of Sumatra, where it is produced in great abundance. Rice is looked upon as a superior food, and even as a luxury ; as much so, at least, as wheat would be considered by an Irish pea- sant. Sago is purchased on the coast of Suma- tra, in cakes weighing about seventeen pounds each, at the rate of something less than half a dollar a picul of ISS^ pounds, and is conunonly consumed by the Or^ng-laut, at the price of about two-thirds of* a dollar for the same quan- tity. A moderate price for rice among the same people is 3^ dollars per picul ; so that this grain is weight for weight five times the price of sago. It is however considered 2^ times more nutri« tious, or each portion of rice goes as far as 2^ portions of sago, — making the real cost of sago, considered simply as an article of nutrition, equal to If dollar per picul. The di£Perenoe of price beyond this is supposed to be made up by the superior agreeableness of rice as an article of diet I have no doubt, the cheapness of sago, and the facility of obtaining fish, contribute materially to impede the progress of civilization among them. Did they not live in a state of great anarchy and disorder, it is probable that with such food t.hpy would become as numerous as abject The -^^/TPgati* PVT^oncos of one of these demi<^savages, (T -f-xv — ii.f^rrRii .rom the Statement now given, ^il ...Pi ^»». ^.^^ ^ ^■■li>&r -*nf| ^filf TY>onfWT cp..-*fpr, without attempting to ex- AND COCHIN CHINA. 99 Chinese character is, as is well known, a lan- guage only to the eye, and understood by all the nations from the spot we were now in, to Japan and Corea eastward, who in this sort of pantomime can understimd each other, however different their vernacular languages. The place which we had now visited is called by the Cochin Chinese, Phu-kok, and by the Siamese Koh-dud, or the ^' far island ;" the last name having reference to its relative distance, compared to other islands, from the coast of Kamboja. In the Kambojan language it is call- ed Koh-trol, or " shuttle island," which is evi- daitiy the Quadrole of the old maps. It is the largest island on the east coast of the Gulf of Siam, being by our reckoning not less than thirty-four miles in length. It is commonly hcid high land, the highest hills rising to seven or eight hundred feet. A few spots here and liiere on the coasts only are inhabited, — the rest being, as usual, covered with a great forest which, we were told, contained abundance of de^, hogs, wild bufialoes, and oxen, but no leo- pards or tigers. Its most valuable produce, how- ever, is the lignum aloes, or agila. All the hilly countries and islands on this part of the coast of the Gulf of Siam abound in this production. We used every endeavour to obtain specimens of the tree in a fit state for botanical descrip- tion, but without success. The lignum aloes* H 2 100 £MBASSY TO SIAM by the account of the natives, is a diseased por- tion of the wood. The tree, one of the tallest of the forest, is sufficiently common ; but not so the individuals in a diseased state; and hence the high price of the odoriferous substance. They showed us several large portions of the timber in its ordinary state, and presented us also with pieces of the fragrant wood, recently ex- tracted.* The inhabitants of Phu-kok were described to us as amounting to from four to five thousand, all of the true Cochin Chinese race, with the ex- ception of a few occasional Chinese sojourners. They grow no species of com, and their hus- bandry is confined to a few coarse fruits, and esculent green vegetables, and farinaceous roots. Of the last, the best and most abundant was the Convolvulus Batata. They import their rice from Kang-kao, which lies opposite, and is an abun^- dant grain country. The inhabitants of Phu-kok seemed to us to be all fishermen, and the east- ern shore of the island had the appearance of a place well suited for their occupation. It was an extensive bank, having frequent overfalls. The fishing-boats were seen sailing, in consideraUe numbers, up and down the coast. These were managed with much dexterity, and were alto- gether the smartest vessels of the kind which I # T riic tree is frequent in the woods of Singapore. AND COCHIN CHINA. 101 had seen in any part of India. Their rigging consisted of two shoulder-of-mutton sails, made of a very white mat, which had a neat appear- ance. The fishery of tripang, or bech^e-mar, was conducted near the shore in two and three feet water. This was carried on in smaU canoes, in which there was one person only, who stocd up in the boat with a spear in his hand, and struck the animals as they presented themselves. Num- bers of persons were thus employed as we came off in the evening. March 15. — Our guests took leave of us this morning, and at eight o'clock we set sail with the intention of going round the southern ex- tremity of the island. The natives had indeed informed us, (and we afterwards found, from good information, their statement to be perfectly cor- rect,) that there was a good navigable channel between Phu-kok and the main ; but we did not think it safe to place implicit reliance upon this account. We now sailed, therefore, in a south- erly direction along the coast of Phu-kok, and in the evening, when it fell calm, we anchored off a small bay, close to the south end of the island. Several fishing-boats were seen, and at night the lights from a village in the bay were sufficiently distinct. March 16. — At eleven o'clock last night, a stiff gale of wind came on from the south-east, mak- ing the island a lee-shore, and the ship dragged 108 EMBASSY TO 8IAM her anchor. This ohUged us to get under weigfa» which we effected with considerable difficulty. The heavy swell compelled us to wear the ship, in which mancBuvre the water shoaled so rp^ pidly, as to put us to considerable risk of suf- fering shipwreck. As we sailed along, we now saw that much of what we had hitherto consi- dered as portion of the great island^ was a chain of islets^ twelve in number, extending from its southern extremity. The water, as we approached these, deepened so as to enable us to sail within two of three hundred yards of them, in twelve and thirteen fathoms. The gale of wind wbidi we experienced through the night was of short continuance, and at one o'clock we had a dead calm; this gave us an opportunity of landing upon several of the small islets in question. The rockv formation here was sand-stone, with immense masses of imbedded conglomerate. We had no opportunity of making any geological re- marks at Phu-kok itself, the coast where we landed consisting every where of. a long sandy plain, in which no rock was exposed; and the hills in the interior being every where distant several miles, as well as rendered difficult of access by a deep forest. At the small islets, the rise and fall of the tide struck us to be re- markably great for so low a latitude. It ap- peared from the high-\vater mark on the rocks, not to be less than eighteen feet; whereas the AND COCHIN CHINA. 103 usual rise in this part of the world, within a few degrees of the equator at least, seldom exceeds eight or nine feet. The hotany of these islands ]»oyed extremely interesting. Among other forest plants we found the cashew-nut tree (Ana- cardium)^ which is commonly supposed to be exclusively a native of America, in full bear- ing. A greater quantity of sea-fowl than usual, so near the equator, were seen upon the rocks interspersed amongst the islands. They consist- ed of gulls (Lmtus)^ sea swallows (Sterna)^ and noddies (Sterna stoUda). Several of the last, with their usual stupidity, lighted on the ship, and suffered themselves to be taken without difficulty. All these small islands seemed des- titute of inhabitants. My poor friend, Mr. Finlayson, caught, from the severe exertions he made to-day under a burning sun, the malady which afterwards proved fatal to him ; and which, during the remainder of the voyage, unfortunately depriv- ed me of the active exercise of his valuable talents. March 17. — This morning we stood on our course to Siam, along the western side of the island of Phu-kok, with a favourable breeze from the east. Just as we were making sail, a I very smart Chinese junk, which had lain at an- chor dose to us during the night, came down and spoke us with perfect confidence. She be- 104 EMBASSY TO 8IAH longed to the island of Hai-nan, being one of the many junks which trade between that place and the capital of Slam, to which last port she was now hound like ourselves. We met two more junks in the course of the dajr. At three in the afternoon we had reached the northern extremity of Phu-kok, which is ' divid- ed hy a narrow channel from another island, the first of a chain running in a northerly direction to the distance of seventeen or eigh- teen miles. In the course of this day^s sailing we saw a few fishing-boats. At dusk, a group of islands, seven in number, called, in the Sia- mese language, Hwi-su, distant about seventeen miles, was in sight. No notice whatever is taken of this group in the ordinary charts. Indeed, the whole of this coast is perhaps less known to European navigators than any portion of the globe of equal magnitude and importance. Our charts and maps, indeed, are thickly studded with islands; but they are without names, and put down at random, all that is known re- garding them, being that they exist in great numbers. March 18. — As every thing now appeared clear ahead of us, we did not anchor last night, as wc had done for some days before, but pro- ceeded without interruption. The Chinese junk which spoke us yesterday morning, was still close to us, although we had a seven-knot breeze AND COCHIN CHINA. 105 during the night. This afforded us an oppor- tunity of judging what this description of ves- sds is capable of doing, when going with a fair wind/ as upon the present occasion. Some of them, it would appear, are nearly a match for an European vessel. On the other hand, from their flat construction, the Chinese junk is quite incapable of beating against a foul wind, and of course in the utmost danger when such a re- source is called for. March 20.— During the 18th and 19th we were out of sight of land, but to-day dose in with the continent in the latitude of 12^ 88' and longitude lOr SO' East. Two ranges of mountains, of considerable height, formed the background before us, between which and the sea was an extensive tract of lower land. The mountains which we now saw, were those whidi lie to the northward of Chan-ti-bon, one of the most productive and populous districts of the kingdom of Siam, abounding in rice, pepper, gamboge, and cardamums* This portion of the coast, in opposition to that which we had be- fore passed, was open and unsheltered. One small rocky island was close to us, and upon this a party landed, while we waited for the sea-breeze. It was so surrounded by reefs that, although perfectly calm, it was difficult to find a place to land upon. Its shores had every- where the appearance of a place much fre- J 106 EMBASSY TO SIAM quented by fish— the sea for miles in the neigh- bourhood being covered with spamatic animal-* culee. There were numbers of sea-fowl on the rocks, and shoals of porpoises sporting about the shore. Some of the latter pursued their prey into such shallow watar, that we woi couraged to make our boatmen wade out, the hope of intercepting them and forcing them to run ashore, but in this expectation we did not succeed. Several fishing stakes were set on the shore of the island next to the conti- nent, and the fresh footsteps of the fishermai were visible in the sand; but we saw nobody, and there were no habitations. This island u formed of granite and quartz rock, and is about five miles distant from the mainland. March 21. — A numerous group of islands lay before us last evening, and we found it therefore prudent to come to an anch(»r for the night. We weighed at four this morning, and at ten came up with the islands in question. With the view of shortening our course, we passed the channel which divides them from a promontoiy on the main, called by the Siamese, Sam-me-san, and in our charts, Lyant. This channel, which is about a quarter of a mile wide, and about two miles in length, we passed with a light, but a leading wind, encountering no dangers, and never having less than four and a half fathoms water. Our boat went ahead of us all the way, sounding. y AKD COCHIN CHINA. 107 We found two small junks lying at anchor here, and we afterwards heard that the channel was a common route for the largest vessels of this de- scription. The scene, as soon as we entered, was striking and picturesque. The shore on each side consisted of a series of sandy coves, and the country of a succession of hills, here and there bare of wood, pressing upon each other down to the sea. No habitations were to be seen, except those of a few fishermen on the coast, and the interior seemed to be an universal wilderness. We spoke one small vessel, with a Siamese crew, two days from Bang-kok, and from her we acquired the names of some of the principal islands and head- lands. The group of islands now passed is much frequented by turtle, the collection of the eggs of which is a business of some importance, and is said to bring a considerable revenue into the Siamese treasury. We found the latitude of Cape Lyant to be 12* 86' 30", which is ten miles farther north than it is laid down in the charts, and its longi- tude, by two good chronometers, 101* 11' East, being sixteen mUes farther west than it is usually delineated. March 22. —A great many islands were in sight last night, and we had them this morning on our starboard, for we did not think it safe to proceed during the night in the channel between them and the main. This, however, we afterwards learned is a common route of the largest Chinese 108 EMBASSY TO SIABI. junks, and is perfectly safe. Many of the largest islands in question are inhabited, such as Ko- kram and Ko-han. The inhabitants are a mixture of Siamese and Cochin Chinese, for the latter people, although the country be under the domi* nion of Siam, have penetrated thus far to the north* At noon we were in the latitude of 18* 8'. The high mountains of Bang-pa-soe were in sight to the eastward, but no land ahead. By our reckon- ing, however, we were within a few miles oi the roads of Siam, and at five in the afternoon we came in sight of them, which we only ascertained by discovering three large Chinese junks lying at anchor, for the land at the head of the gulf was extremely low, and not yet visible. At seven o'clock we anchored in 3f fathoms water, dose to the junks, having thus performed the voyage from the Straits of Malacca with ease in twenty- three days. CHAPTER IV. Cotnmtiiucatioii of our Arrival made to the Court of Siun. — Entertainment given to the Mission. — Negotiation for proceeding to the Capital. — Ship ascends the River, ap- pearance of its Banks. — Arrival at Bang'kok, appearance of the place.— Deli verjr of the Oovemor-general's Letter. — Visit to the Prah-klang, or Foreign Minister — Deliver][ of the presents for the King. — The Mission lands.— De- scription of its Residence. — Visit to the Prince Krom' chiat, now King of Siam. — Arrangement of the Ceremo- nial for our Presentation to the King.— Second Viait to the F«eign Minister. — The Misuon presented to the King. — Description of the Ceremony— Inspection of the White Elephanti, &c — The Mission receive* a visit, and is entertained by the Foreign Minister. March 24. — As soon as we had come to an anchor, we prepared a letter for the Prah- 119 EMBASSY TO SIAM klangy* or minister who conducts the affairs of strangers. In this we briefly informed him of our arrival, the number of our party, and such other particulars of the same nature^ as we were given to understand would be expected. This was trans- mitted, early yesterday morning, by one of the officers of the ship to Pak-nam,f the first sta- tion in ascending the river. The officer re- turned this morning with a civil message from the Chief of Pak-nam, accompanied by a present of fruit, and he brought with him a pik>t to conduct us over the bar. March 25. — At seven o'clock this morning we weighed anchor, and attempted to cross the bar ; but when about half-way over, the ship struck in the soft mud, in which, as the tide fell, she sunk four feet. We had, at the same time, not above four feet water. As the evening tide made, she floated, and we crossed the bar without sus- taining any injury. A strong and favourable breeze soon carried us to the mouth of the Menam, a distance of not less than ten miles from the outer edge of the bar, ploughing al- most all the way through the thin ooze ; and at seven o'clock at night we anchored off^ the village of Pak-nam, about two miles and a half from the mouth of the river, upon its left bank. * Literally, Lord or Master of the Warehouses, t The word means mouth of the river, or rather water ; it L» applied to the dehoucheur of any river. AND COCHIN CHINA. Ill March 26.-^A Portuguese interpreter, dis- patdied from the Court, came on board this morning. He brought a message from the Chief of Pak-nam, the purport of which was, that he had received instructions from the Court to en- tertain us, and that a barge had been sent down to bring us to the Capital, bat that before the ship proceeded it would be necessary to land our guns, according to invariable usage in such cases. We returned a civil answer, and sent the chief a small present, taking this occasion to remonstrate against the landing of our guns, as well as to sig- nify to him that one boat was totally inadequate to the accommodation of so large a party as ours. In the forenoon his nephew came on board, to wait upon us. He stated that the orders of the governor on the subject of landing the cannon of foreign ships were peremptory, and could not be dispensed with, but that a reference would be made to the Court for instructions. On the sub- ject of the barge, it was explained that the numbers of our party were not known, or more accommodation would have been furnished. This was not true, for we had stated the exact num- ber of the party in the letter to the Prah-klang, and the circumstance of sending a single boat only, was evidently an early attempt to underrate the Mission and the authority by which it was sent. A temperate resistance therefore, however unpleasant, became necessary. 112 EMBASSY TO SIAM Our visitor had brought an invitation to our party to land in the evening, and partake of an entertainment which the chief had prepared for us. This, after some hesitation, was accepted, and at the landing-place we were met by the Go- vernor's nephew, who escorted us to the chieTs house. A crowd of men, women, and childr^i, were collected out of curiosity, the greatest share of which seemed to be directed towards our Indian servants, whose neat, gay, and dean attire, formed a striking contrast to their own rude and slovenly semi-nudity. After passing a short way through mean lanes crowded with huts, we came upon the dwelling of his Excel- lency the Governor, formed of the same mean and perishable materials as the rest. We were ushered into a large apartment, raised a few feet from the ground, on a platform of split bamboos, which formed the floor. The thatch within was ill concealed by broken and soiled Chinese paper-hangings, and from the roof was suspended a motley collection of old Dutch chandeliers of miserable glass, and Siamese and Chinese lamps, covered with dust, with cobwebs, and with th^ smoke of oil, incense, and tobacco. The Gover- nor civilly met us at the door, and shook . hands with us very heartily in the European fashion. Chairs were placed for our accommodation. This chief was a man about forty-five years of age^ of rugged features, but cheerful manners^ and AND COCHIN CHINA. 113 he seemed desirous to please. His nephew, who had ushered us in, and his secretary, sat upon a carpet before him. A messenger, who had just arrived from the Court, and who was deputed to conduct us thither, was also present. The name, or rather the title, of this person, with whom the Mission had afterwards a good deal of intercourse, was Luang kochai-asa-hak, formerly Nakhoda Ali. He was one of those Mohamme- dan adventurers whose ancestors had come several ages ago from the coast of Coromandel. He had visited Queda, Penang, and Calcutta, and spoke the Malayan language tolerably, for which reason it was that he was selected to attend us. In the centre of the apartment we found a table laid out in the European fashion, under the direction of the Portuguese interpreters, with plates, knives, forks, silver spoons, and some toler- able English glass-ware. It was loaded with viands, such as pork, fowls, ducks, egg, and rice, and with abundance of fruit, particularly man- goes, oranges, and lichis, all of which were in season. A curtain, which was suspended across one end of the apartment, attracted our notice. We were told, to our surprise, that behind it lay in state the body of the late chief of Pak-nam. This person was brother to the present chief, and the father of the young person who had visited us in, the forenoon. This l^st, indeed, VOL. I. I II 4 EMBASSY TO SIAM had then mformed us that his father had died five months ago ; that his body was lying em- balmed at Pak-nam, and that his funeral would take place on the 24th day of the present moon ; but we had certainly no idea that we were to be favoured with the presence of the deceased during the repast to which we had been invited. Mr. Fiidayson and Mr. Ruther- furd, when they landed the following moming, their curiosity being strongly excited on the sub- ject of the body which was lying in state^ ven- tured to make some inquiry concerning it Their questions were by no means taken amiss by the son, to whom they were addressed, but considered rather complimentary; and he invited them without ceremony to view the body. It was lying in a coffin, which was covered with tinsel and wliite doth, and the lid of which whai removed exhibited the corpse wrapped up in a great many folds of cloth, like an Egyptian mummy, apparently quite dry, and covered with such a profusion of aromatics, that there was nothing offensive about it. The chief alone sat down at table with . us, but without partaking of oiu* fare. He was assi- duous in pressing us to the good things whidi were placed before us. My interpreter explained to me, that he requested us to " eat heartily and not be abashed'' — a customary form of compli- ment, it appears, among the Siamese, in address- AND COCHIN CHINA. 115 ing a guest No questions respecting the objects of the Mission were put to us during the enter- tftinment, and I considered the visit as a matter of mere form and etiquette, but in this I was much deceived ; for the repast was no sooner over, than question followed question with great vivacity. We were first bluntly asked what was the object of the Mission. We answered in ge- neral terms that the English and Siamese nations were neighbours, and that on our part we were desirous that a friendly and frequent intercourse should subsist between us, and that we were de« puted to request such an intercourse. This did not satisfy the chief ; he urged us over and over to state what particular request or demands we had to make of the Court upon the present oc- casion. We declined giving him the satisfaction he required; observing, that in proper time and place we should explain ourselves fully. We were next requested to state the quality and amount of the presents brought for the King, and a secretary placed himself behind the chief to take notes of what was said on this subject — ' one apparently of the first interest. We evaded giving any answer, except in very general terms* but were cross-questioned with dexterity and per* severance. I had noticed that among the pre- sents there were some fire-arms. The chief b^ged to know their number. I said a few hundreds. He begged me to conjecture sdtne I 3 116 EMBASSY TO SIAM approximation to the actual number. I added, probably three or four hundred. The answer was, ^*be good enough to say either the one or the other.** I endeavoured to divert the chiefs attention from the detail of muslins, ImNidcloths, crystal, looking-glasses, and such matters, by call- ing his attention to an English hcnrse, which was one of the presents. He immediately requested to know his height, his age, his colour, the length of his tail, and finally, what fortunate or unfortunate marks he had about him. We put an end to all this importunity, by inform- ing the Governor, that as soon as we returned to the ship, we would direct a derk to make out a list of the presents for his satisfaction. This conversation afforded an early, but a good specimen of the indelicacy and rapacity whidi we afterwards fqund so characteristic of the Siamese Court and its officers, upon every ques- tion of a similar nature. After the discussion respecting the preseits, the chief reminded us of the compliment which his Siamese Majesty had paid the Mission, in so promptly dispatching an accommodation-boat to convey us to Bang-kok; and he entreated us to make no difficulty about accepting this gracious mark of royal attention, while he be- sought us also to comply with the established usage in landing the guns of the ship. We AND COCHIN CHINA, 11? repeated what we had said before, of the total inadequacy of a single boat to accommodate om* large party, which consisted of seventy-four per- sons. With respect to landing the cannon, we stated that a Portuguese man-of-war had, two years before, been permitted to visit the capital, and that a Mission from the British Government had a right to be treated with equal favour. Much pains were taken to convince us, that it would be proper to comply with the wishes of the Court, but we persevered in our objections. With this discussion our visit ended. It was^ a striking contrast to European usage, that the whole of this demi-official conversation passed m the presence and hearing of a great crowd of the lower orders, who occupied the entire area of the court, opposite to the place where we sat. The people indeed pressed up to the very door of the saloon. The chiefs by no means checked their curiosity, and on their part they listened to what passed with respectful at- tention. What we saw in our visit to Pak-nam, was not calculated to impress us with a very exalted opinion of the progress of the Siamese nation in the arts which conduce to the comforts or reason- able enjoyments of life. The cottage of an Eng- lish peasant, not on the brink of a workhouse, possesses more real comfort than did the mansion 118 £MBASSY TO SIAM of the Governor of Fak-nain» who, as we were told, exercised an arbitrary authority over 50,000 people. March 28. — ^As soon as I had returned to the ship after my visit to Pak-nam, I addressed a let* ter to the Prah-klang, recapitulating what I had urged to the chief of that place, on the subject of our conveyance to the capital and the landing of our guns. Yesterday no answer was received, but this morning Ko-chai-^isa-hak, who, in the in- terval, had been at Bang-kok, came on board, to inform us that the Court had given us per- mission to ascend the river with our canncm, w, in case we preferred going in boats supplied by the Court, that a sufficient number would be sent down in a few days. We adopted the plan of going up in the ship, as the most independ-* ent, speedy, and commodious ; and at ten o'clock we began to ascend the river against the tide, but with a strong breeze in our favour. The river at its mouth and up to Pak-nam is about a mile wide, but shortly after diminishes to one- half of this width, — a breadth which, with few exceptions, it preserves all the way to Bang- kok. Opposite to Pak-nam there is a sand-bank, bare at low- water,* and a few miles beyond it the * Our contest with the Burmans so alarmed the Siamese, that during its progress they fortified Pak-nam with the sand- bank mentioned in the text. On these works there are said to be mounted about 200 pieces of heavy ordnacce, some of which AND COCHIN CHINA. 119 ruins of a small brick fort, built by the Dutch, about a century and a half ago, when they car- ried on a trade with Siam. This last, by the en* croaehment of the river, is now within the stream, and covered at high-water. These two, and they are easily avoided, constitute the only dangers of the Menam, from its mouth to the capital. Af* ter passing them, a ship may range from side to side of the river, with from seven to ten fa- thoms water, approaching so near to the*banks that her yards may literally overhang them. At one o'clock we reached a couple of forts, or re- doubts, of masonry, — one on each side of the river, — which is here considerably contracted. The neighbourhood is occupied by a colony of the people of Pegue and Lao, refugees from the territory disputed between the Burmans and Sia- mese. A flag was hoisted from both forts, and we were serenaded by a Peguan band of music as we passed. A well-dressed chief, in the Bur- man or Pegue costume, came on board here, bringing us two boat loads of fruits and other refreshment. Close to the river, and at least for twelve are good English guns, but the greater number brass-cannon, cast at Bang-kok, and of the worst description. In the hands of a people of any courage or military skill, these fortifications would render the access to the capital impregnable. Such, howerer, is the ignorance and pusillanimity of the Siamese, that, in all likelihood, they would prove no serious impediment to an attack by European shipping. 120 EMBASSY TO SIAM miles up, the land appears to be unfit for cul- ture, owing to the saltness of the water, which occasionally overflows it. All this tract is occu- pied by rhizophoras, and by the cocos-nypa, the leaf of which is so abundantly used by the inha- bitants of tropical India as thatch. Beyond this again, and all the way to the capital, the banks of the river are more elevated, and the coun- try as far as we could observe it, presented every where a rich extent of cultivation, consisting of rice-fields, interspersed with numerous villages, surrounded by orchards of palm and fruit-trees. The rice stubble was on the ground, for the crop had been reaped two months before,' and among it were grazing numerous herds of bufialoes, the only description of cattle which werfe to be seen. This appearance of fertility and industry formed a pleasing contrast to the waste of rocks, moun- tains, and impenetrable and unprofitable forests, to which we had been accustomed for the last three months. At four o'clock we came to an anchor for a couple of hours, waiting for the flood-tide, and took this opportunity to land. The fields af- forded a great number of birds of different de- scriptions, and we were successful in * adding several specimens to our collection. The na- tives, wherever we met them, received us with kindness, and betrayed no symptoms of distrust I I I 4 ; I • I •A ■■i AND COCHIN CHIXA. 121 or timidity. As soon as the flood-tide had made, we weighed, and at twelve o'clock at night reach- ed the town of Bang-kok. March 29. — The morning presented to us a very novel spectacle — the capital of Siam, situ- ated on both sides of the Menam. Numerous temples of Buddha, with tall spires attached to them, frequently glittering with gilding, were conspicuous among the mean huts and hovels of the natives, throughout which were interspersed a profusion of palms, ordinary fruit-trees, and the sacred fig (ficus religiosa). On each side of the river there was a row of floating habita- tions, resting on rafts of bamboos, moored to the shore. These appeared the neatest and best de- scription of dwellings; they were occupied by good Chinese shops. Close to these aquatic habi- tations were anchored the largest description of native vessels, among which were many junks of great size, just arrived from China. The face ^ of the river presented a busy scene, from the number of boats and canoes of every size and description which were passing to and fro. The number of these struck us as very great at the time, for we were not aware that there are few or no roads at Bang-kok, and that the river and canals form the common highways, not only for goods, but for passengers of every description. Many of the boats were shops containing ear- 122 EMBASSY TO SIAM thenware, hUuhang^ dried fish, and freah pork. Venders of these several commodittes were hawk- ing and crying them as in an European town. - Among those who plied on the river, there was a large proportion of women, and of the priests of Buddha ; the latter readily distinguished by their shaved and bare heads, and their yellow vestments. This was the hour in which they are accustomed to go in quest of alms, which accounted for the great number of them whicli we saw. In the course of the morning, a boat was seen coming alongside with two persons of distinction in her. These were the son and nephew of the Minister, lads not above fourteen years of age, who were sent on board to compliment us on our arrival. They brought us a present of fruit and fine tea, and communicated a request from the Minister, that the ship would drop down a few hundred yards, and opposite to his own house, where a deputation would be sent on board to receive the letter of the Govemor-generaL The son of the Minister was a sprightly and int^lli* gent lad, but seemed to have been greatly in- dulged. They were served with coffee and sweets meats, and after this repast chewed betel,. and smoked tobacco profusely, so as to give us ra- * A foetid condiment in very general use in the countries beyond the Ganges^ and generally composed of bruised shrimps and other small fish. •• AND COCHIN CHINA. 123 ther an unfavourable impression of the educa- tion and habits of a young Siamese nobleman. In the course of the day a secretary came on board well attended. He had his note-book and his pencil in his hand, and the object of his y'mt was to examine the English horse, which l¥as one of the presents, and to take minutes for the information of his Majesty, from whom^ and not the Minister, he took care to inform us, he was directly sent. His Majesty, it ap^- pears, had heard of the horse, and not being able to restrain his curiosity, had sent this person for the express purpose of drawing up a formal de- scription of him. In the evening, according to the intimation which had been given, a deputation came on board to receive the letter of the Govemor-ge- nersl. The principal member of it was Pia-pipat kosa, the deputy of the Foreign Minister, a fine- looking old man, above seventy years of age, of frank and pleasing manners. Siamese and Euro- pean notions on the subject of foreign missions differ essentiaUy. Among the Siamese, the prin- cipal honours are paid to the letter which is brought, and not to the envoy who brings it, and who is considered in little better light than that of an honourable messenger. In delivering the letter of the Governor-general, it was ne- cessary to advert to this circumstance, and to see that every proper ceremony was attended to. 124 EMBASSY TO SIAM The chief of the deputation began by infotm- ing us, that according to Siamese etiquette, let- ters from foreign States must be deliyered to the officers of Government before presentation to His Majesty, for the purpose of being authenti- cated and translated. We requested to know if a copy would not be sufficient We were told, in xeply, that the letter itself must be seen, that it might be ascertained that all necessary forms had been complied with. These fcxrms have especial reference to the shape and quality of the paper, and envelope, titles, and such like matters. We then stated, that we expected the letter would be returned to us previous to our audience, in order that we might have the ho- nour of presenting it personally to the Eang. We were informed that this was contrary to usage, but a pledge was given that the letter should be produced at the audience, and a Sia- mese translation of it read in our presence. The Govemor-general's letter was now produced, and taken by the old chief in a gold vase brought for the purpose. It was received by the escort on the quarter-deck under a salute, and handed into the boat, where it was deposited under a state umbrella. Ko-chai-asa-hak, who formed one of the depu- tation, stayed behind until the other members had gone away. His object was to deliver to AND COCHIN CHINA. 125 • would favour him, in the evening, with a pri- vate interview. I agreed to this, with some hesitation ; and Captain Dangerfield and I land- ed, accordingly, at six in the evening, and pro- ceeded to the Minister's house, immediately on the river side. In compliment to us, he met us at the door, offering us his hand in the Eu- ropean fashion. He seated himself upon a silk cushion, and pointed to one opposite, which Captain Dangerfield and myself took posses- sion of. None of his attendants or family came within several yards of him, but lay prostrate on their knees and elbows in an attitude par- ticularly undignified and servile. The hall in which we were received was neat and well- furnished beyond our expectation. The win- dow-curtains consisted of a handsome English chintz. The room was lighted by a pair of good cut-glass English chandeliers, and by se- veral handsome Chinese lanterns. Suri-wrung-kosa, for this was the Foreign Minister's name, was a man about thirty-eight years of age, rather a heavy figure, inclining to be corpulent, and of a complexion dark for a Siamese. His features were expressive of good sense, but there was an air of sullenness and reserve in them not calculated to gain confi- dence. His person was without ornaments, and, indeed, it may be said, nearly without- dress; for he wore nothing, saving a piece of crimson 126 EMBASSY TO 81 AM. silk, which was wrapped round his loins. Al- together, whether in person or manner, he had very much the appearance of a frugal Hindoo of the mercantile cast, in good circumstances. His questions, upon this occasion, were sensible and pertinent throughout, and evinced none of the troublesome importunity which I experi- enced from the Chief of Pak-nam. His prin- cipal inquiries were directed to the objects of the Mission ; and he seemed satisfied with the explanations which were given. He requested us, as we had made a long voyage, to repose ourselves for a few days, when we should be presented to the King. It would, however, he added, according to the custom of the place, be requisite that we should be previously intro- duced to the Prince Kromchiat, the eldest son of the King, who superintended the foreign and commercial department. Our conversation was carried on in Malay, through the medium of Ko-chai-asa-hak ; for our interpreters, although they accompanied us, were not allowed to act. Before we took our departure, a very neat dessert of choice fruits, sweetmeats, and tea, were served up to us. The report made by the secretary, respecting the English horse, had so strongly excited the curiosity of His Siamese Majesty, that he was unable to repress it until the regular delivers of ♦Vip Drpe^titj- : and a polite m'^ssagfe wa^ «^'^» AND COCHIN CHINA. 127 to request that he might be allowed to land. One of the boats employed to convey elephants, with a train of attendants, was sent to receive him, and he was safely landed last evening ; the first of his race, I am sure, that ever reached the shores of Siam. He was a handsome tho- rough-bred entire horse, about fifteen liands high. Such an animal, in a country where horses are rare, and the few that exist mere ponies, was necessarily an object of much curiosity. March 81. — In the morning, Seignor De Sil- veira, a gentleman who had been residing at Siam as Portuguese Consul during the last two years, sent his assistant, or secretary, to wait upon us ; excusing himself from coming in per- son, as it was contrary to Siamese etiquette for a person in his situation to visit us before we had been honoured with an audience of the King. We should now, after a long confinement on board of ship, have been glad to have gone abroad, and gratified ourselves with an inspec- tion of the many novel objects which seemed to offer themselves, but this was contrary to etiquette. We were not indeed forbidden to go about, but it was stated to us, that to do so, before a public audience had placed us under the immediate protection of the Court, might expose us to be treated with rudeness by the populace. 128 £ BIB ASSY TO SI AM April 1. — The presents for the King were landed this morning, at the particular request of the Court The pretext for this, was to af- ford an opportunity of examining and register- ing them before they were presented at the au- dience, but I am afraid the real motive was no other than an anxious desire to be put in im- mediate possession. A trifling cireumstance, which took place in delivering them, afforded a singular example of indelicacy on the part of the officers of the Siamese Government. Among a great many pieces of British muslin, which constituted an article of the presents, it was alleged that there was a sh with the rowers dressed in scarlet uniforms, was furnished by the Court, for the conveyance of the gentlemen of the mission ; another for our Indian attendants, about twenty in number ; and the se- poys of the escort were conveyed in the ship's launch. It was made a particular request, that our servants, but especially the sepoys of the escort, should form part of the procession. About nine o'clock, we landed under the walls of the pa- lace, where we found an immense concourse of people waiting to view the spectacle. The accom- modation for conveying us to the palace con- sisted of net hammocks, suspended from poles, furnished with an embroidered carpet, and, ac- cording to the custom of the country, borne by 140 EMBASSY TO SIAM two men only. The management of these un- stable vehicles was a matter of some difficulty, and our awkwardness became a subject of some amusement to the crowd. The escort, after salut- ing us at the landing-place, fell in and formed part of the procession. After passing the first gate, we came to a very extensive market, crowd- ed in every part with the populace. This led directly to the second gate, where a street of Siamese soldiers in single file was formed to re- ceive us. These were of a most grotesque ap- pearance, their costume being neither Asiatic nor European, but a strange mixture of both. Thdr uniforms consisted of a loose jacket of coarse scarlet broadcloth, buttoned in front; a pair of small loose trowsers barely reaching to the knee ; and a hat with a small round crown and broad brim, which was coated with red paint or var- nish, and composed of rhinoceros hide, a sub- stance which is sabre-proof. Their arms con- sisted of muskets and bayonets, coated, like their hats, with a thick red varnish. Some of the muskets were without ramrods, and altogether in a very poor state in regard to efliciency. At the second gateway we dismounted from our litters, and left the escort, which was not permitted to go farther. We were also com- pelled at this place to part with our side-arms, — no person whatever, we were told, being per- mitted to come armed within the immediate pre- AND COCHIN CHINA. 141 dncts of the royal residence. Passing through this gate, we went along an avenue having a line of sheds on both sides, under each of which was a cannon of enormous size. In this avenue also a street of Siamese military, similar to those just^ described, was formed to receive us. Turning a little aside from this avenue, we were conducted into an immense hall, which seemed to be not less than eighty or ninety feet long, and forty or fifty broad. This, I believe, was the prmcipal hall of justice; but it did not seem to be much frequented, for pigeons, swallows, and sparrows, had nested in the roof — and were now flying about without fear or interruption, as it is a religious maxim not to disturb them. Close to this building, ten elephants, caparisoned, were drawn out ; the first we had seen since our arrival. Carpets were spread for us, and we were re- quested to wait a suiiunons into the royal pre- sence. We were not detained above twenty minutes when the sumnions arrived, and we proceeded to the hall of audience. This portion of the royal inclosure was, like the rest that we had passed, filled with a crowd of people who were curious and clamorous, but not rude. A number of ofiKcers, with white wands, attended to keep off the crowd; and two officers, after the manner of heralds, preceded us. We now reached the third and last gate, which contains 142 EMBASSY TO SI AM the principal palace, a building with a tall spire, and roofed with tin ; the hall of audi^M^, dis- tinct from the palace ; and an extensive temple of Buddha. We were here requested to take off our shoes, and to leave behind us our Indian attendants. None of our party whatever, indeed, were permitted to go beyond this spot, except the four British officers of the mission. I had previously stipulated that our. interpreters, al- thou^ not admitted into the presence, should be within hearing ; but in the hurry of the mo- ment they were jostled, and hindered from fol- lowing. As soon as we had entered th^ gate, we found a band of music, consisting of not less than a hundred persons, drawn up to form a street for our reception. The instruments con- sisted of gongs, drums, brass flutes, and flagolets. Opposite to the door of the hall of audience there was an immense Chinese mirror, of many parts, which formed a screen, concealing the in- terior of the Court from our view. We had no sooner arrived at this spot than a loud flourish of wind instruments was heard, accompanied by a wild shout or yell, which announced, as we afterwards found, the arrival of his Majesty. We passed the screen to the right side, and, bb had been agreed upon, taking off* our hats, mad^ a respectful bow in the European manner. Every foot of the great hall which we had now entered was literally so crowded with prostrate courtiers, AND COCHIN CHINA. 143 that it was difficult to move without the risk of treading upon some officer of state. Prece- dence is decided, upon such occasions, by rela- tive vicinity to the throne; the princes being near the foot of it, the principal officers of Go- venunent next to them, and thus in succession down to the lowelst officer who is admitted into the presence. We seated ourselves a little m front of the screen, and made three obeisances to the throne, in unison with the courtiers. This* obeisance consisted in raising the jomed hands to the^ head three times, and at each toudtingi the forehead. To have completed the Siamese obeisance, it wcmld have been necessary to have bent the body to the ground, and touched the earth with the forehead at each prostratimi. I thought the place assigned to us^ although not a very distinguished one» the highest it was in- tended to concede ; but we had no sooner made our obeisances than we were requested to ad« vance, and were finally settled about half-way towards the throne. The assigning to us the first place, and our advance afterwards to a more honourable one, was evidently an artifice of our conductors to ^cact a greater number of obei- sances than we had pledged ourselves to make ; for when we were seated the second time, the whole Court made three additional obeisances, in which we were compelled to join, to avoid the imputation of rudeness. 144 EMBASSY TO SIAM The hall of audience appeared a well-propor- tioned and spacious saloon, of about eighty feet in length, perhaps half this in breadth, and thirty feet in height. Two rows, each of ten handsome wooden pillars, formed an avenue from the door to the throne, which was situated at the upper end of the hall. The walls and ceiling were painted of a bright vermilion; the omiices of the former being gilded, and the latter thickly spangled throughout with stars m rich gilding. Between the. pillars we observed several good lustres of ' English cut-glass. The apartment would have been altogether in good taste, but for the appearance, against the pillars, of some miserable lamps of tin-plate, which had been imported from Batavia, and which were in all likelihood prized only because they were foreign. The throne and its appendages occupied the whole of the upper end of the hall. The first was gilded all over, and about fifteen feet high. It had much the shape and look of a handsome pulpit. A pair of curtains, of gold tissue upon a yellow ground, concealed the whole of the upper part of the room, except the throne ; and they were intended to be drawn over this also, except when used. In front of the throne, and rising from the floor, were to be seen a number of gilded umbrellas of various sizes. These con- sisted of a series of canopies, decreasing in size upwards, and sometimes amounting to as many AND COCHIN CHINA. 145 as seventeen tiers. The King, as he appeared seated on his throne, had more the appearance of a statue in a niche, than of a living being. He wore a loose gown of gold tissue, with very- wide sleeves. His head was bare, for he wore neither crown nor any other ornament on it Close to him was a golden baton, or sceptre. The general appearance of the hall of audi* ence, the prostrate attitude of the courtiers, the situation of the King, and the silence which prevailed, presented a very imposing spectacle; and reminded us much more of a temple crowd- ed with votaries engaged in the performance of some solemn rite of religion, than the audience* chamber of a temporal monarch. The King seemed a man between fifty and sixty years of age, rather short in person, and disposed to corpulency. His features were very ordinary, and appeared to bespeak the known indolence and imbecility of his character; but upon this subject it was not easy to form any correct opinion, owing to the distance we were at from the throne, and the sort of chiaro scuro cast upon it, evidently for effect. To the left of the throne we saw exhibited the portable part of the presents from the Go- vernor-general ; a secretary proceeded to read a list of them ; and I make no doubt they were represented as tribute, or offering, although of this it was impossible to obtain proof. The letter VOL. I. L 146 EMBASSY TO SIAM of tlic Governor-general was neither read nor exhibited, notwithstanding the distinct pledge wliich had been given to that effect. The words which His Siamese Majesty con- descended to address to us, were deliv^^ in a grave, measured, and oracular manner. One of the first officers of state delivered them to a jierson of inferior rank, and this person to Ko- chai-sahak, who was behind us, and explained them in the Malay language. The questions put, as they were rendered to us, were as follows: " The Governor-general of India (literally, in Siamese, The Lord, or Gk)vemor, of Bengal) has sent you to Siam — what is your business ?"* A short explanation of the objects of the mission was given in reply. *' Have you been sent with the knowledge of the King of England?" It was here explained, that, from the great dis- tance of England, the political intercourse with the distant nations of the East was commonly entrusted to the management of the Governor- general of India. " Is the Gk)vemor-general of India brother to the King of England?" To this question it was replied, that the Gk)vemor- general of India had been the personal friend of his sovereign from early life, but that he was not his brother. The following questions were suc'^essively put : " What difference is *:]ipr<> ir i„ at>es of the King and G^^^mor AND COCHIN CHINA. 147 general?" — " Was the Governor-general of India in good health when you left Bengal ?" — ** Where do you intend to go, after leaving Siam?" — ^* Is peace your object in all the countries you mean to visit?" — "Do you intend to travel by land or water, from Sai-gun to Turan ?'* — " Is it your intention to visit Hu6, the capital of Cochin China?" After receiving replies to these dif. ferent questions, His Majesty concluded with the following sentence : " I am glad to see an envoy here from the Governor-general of India. What- ever you have to say, communicate to the minister, Suri-wung-kosa. What we chiefly want from you are fire-arms." ^is Majesty had no sooner pronounced these last words, than we heard a loud stroke, as if given by a wand against a piece of wainscoting ; upon which the curtains on each side of the throne, moved by some concealed agency, closed upon it. This was followed by the same flourish of wind instruments, and the same wild shout whicii accompanied our entrance; and the cour« tiers, falling upon their faces to the ground, made six successive prostrations. We made three obei- sances, sitting upright, as had been agreed upon. As soon as the curtain was drawn upon His Majesty, the courtiers, for the first time, sat upright, and we were requested to be at our ease, — freely to look round us, and admire the L 2 148 EMBASSY TO SIAM splefidaur and magnificence of the Court — such being nearly the words made use of by the inter- preter in making this communication to us- . During the audience, a heavy shower had fallen, and it was still raining. His Majesty took this opportunity of presenting us each with a small umbrella, and sent a message to desire that we would view the curiosities of the palace at our leisure. When we arrived at the threshidd of the hall of audience, we perceived the court- yard and the roads extremely wet and dirty fixmi the fall of rain. We naturally demanded our shoes, which we had left at the last gate. This was a favour which could not be yielded, and we were informed that the first princes of the blood could not wear shoes within the sacred enclosure in which we now were. It would have .been impolitic to have evinced ill-humour, or attempted remonstrance ; and therefore we fei^ed a cheer- ful compliance with this inconvenient usage, and proceeded to gratify our curiosity. The greatest of the curiosities to which our attention was directed were the white elephants, well known in Europe to be objects of venera* tion, if not of worship, in all the countries where the religion of Buddha prevails. The present King has no less than six of these, a larger num- ber than ever was possessed by any Siamese monarch; and this circumstance is considered peculiarly auspicious to his reign. Four of them AND COCHIN CHINA. 149 were shown to us. They approached much nearer to a true white colour than I had expected : they had, indeed, all of them more or less of a flesh-coloured tinge; but this arose from the exposure of the skin, owing to the small quan- tity of hair with which the elephant is naturally covered. They showed no signs of diseaseV debi- lity, or imperfection; and as to size, they were of the ordinary stature, the smallest being not less than six feet six incfies high. Upon in- quiring into their history, we found that they were all either from the kingdom of Lao or Kamboja, and none from Siam itself, nor from the Malay countries tributary to it, which last, indeed, had never been known to aflbrd a white elephant. The rareness of the white elephant is, no doubt, the origin of the consideration in which it is held« The countries in which it is found, and in which, indeed, the elephant in general exists in greatest perfection, and is most regarded, are those in which the worship of Buddh and the doctrine of the metempsychosis prevail. It was natural, therefore^ to imagine that the body of so rare an object as a white elephant must be the tempo- rary habitation of the soul of some mighty per- sonage in its progress to perfection. This is the current belief, and accordingly every white ele- phant has the rank and title of aking, with an approiHiate name expressing this dignity^^-such as 150 EMBASSY TO SIAM the " piire king," the " wonderful king,** and so forth. One of the Jesuits, writing upon this subject, informs us with some naivete, that his Majesty of Siam does not ride the white elephant, because he, the white elephant, is as great a king as himself! Each of those which we saw had a separate stable, and no less than ten keepers to wait upon it. The tusks of the males, for there were some of both sexes, were ornamented with gold rings. On the head they had all a gold chain net, and on the back a small embroidered velvet cushion. Notwithstanding the veneration with which the white elephants are considered in some re- spects, it does not seem to be carried so far in Siam as to emancipate them from occasional cor- rection. Two of them were described as so vicious, that it was considered unsafe to exhibit them. A keeper pricked the foot of one, in our presence, with a sharp iron until blood came, although his majesty's only offence was stealing a bunch of bananas ; or rather, snatching it before he had received permission ! In the stables of the white elephants, we were shown two monkies, whose presence, the keepers insisted, preserved their royal charges from sick- ness. These were of a perfectly pure white colour, of considerable size, and of the tribe of monkies with long tails. They were in perfect health, and had been long caught ; but we were advised not AND COCHIN CHINA. 151 to play with them, as they were of a sullen and mischievous disposition. These were both taken in the forest of Pisiluk, about ten days' journey up the Menam. From the white elephants we were taken to the crowd of their brethren which had the ill luck to be bom black, and were therefore doomed to toil, or harsh usage. They did not appear to us to be remarkable either for size or beauty ; but some of our Indian servants, who were better judges than ourselves, considered them as possess^ ing, in an emment degree, all those points which are admired by amateurs, and which distinguish the noblest race of this animal. We were struck with the great number which were partly white, principally about the head and trunk. One of these, which was kept in a separate ^stable, had the whole head and trunk white : it was eight feet high, and in point of symmetry quite perfect. This, like some of the white ele- phants, was caught in the forests of Lao. The elephant usually rode by his Majesty was exhi- bited among the rest ; it was tall and very docile, but not remarkable for beauty. A glance at his Siamese Majesty's stud of horses was quite sufficient to satisfy our curiosity. It consisted of a few ponies imported from the Eastern Islands, and of a small breed of horses, said to be brought from the Chinese province of Yu-nan. There were a few horses from Western 152 EMBASSY TO SIAM India, old and miserable. One of these, we were informed, liad been presented by Mr. Light, the first Governor of Prince of Wales's Island. As we passed along, we were requested to examine the large cannon which we had seen on entering. They consisted of seven or eight pieces lying on beas, and Avere mere objects of curiosity. Some of them were eighteen feet long, the walls of enormous thickness, but the calibre not exceed- ing nine inches. They appeared to have been perfectly well cast. Each had an inscription upon it, inlaid in silver, which, as we were tcdd, de- scribed its charge of powder, but, from what we could understand, in very exaggerated terms. These guns bore no comparison in point of size to some of those cast by the Mohammedan princes, of Hindostan, and neither in size nor workmanship, to several which we afterwards saw in Cochin China. We were now conducted to the great temple of Gautama. This consisted, like all other Sia^ mese temples, of an immense square indosure, and contained one principal temple, with several inferior ones. There was a colonnade and covered passage all round, and here the walls were covered with Siamese paper, the paintings upon which represented the Adventures of Rama, a favourite subject with the Buddhist nations. The principal temple was a spacious square chamber, at one end of which was a kind of altar, about eight AND COCHIN CHINA. 153 feet liigh, containing a number of gilded figures of Buddh, in the sitting posture in which he is most commonly represented. In the middle of these gilded figures was one of the same deity, of a green-coloured stone, and about eighteen inches high. This, our conductors assured us, was made of emerald ; but the material had not the least ap- pearance either of that or any other gem, being, although highly polished, dull and opaquje. It was not within reach of examination, but it is not improbable that it was a light-coloured malachite, imported from China. Our examination of this temple was but cur- sory, and I shall not attempt any detailed account of it, as we had afterwards much better oppor- tunities afforded us of examining and describing other Siamese temples of the same character, but upon a much larger scale. I ought, however, to observe that the 'first appearance of a Siamese temple made a forcible impression upon us. It was impossible to see the extent of the buildings, and the laboriousness and costliness of the work- manship and materials, without feeling that we were amongst a numerous people, who had made considerable advances in civilization, and who were ruled by a despotic government and a super-- stitious priesthood. After having thus viewed such of the royal curiosities as were exhibited to us, we were led back to the ball where we had first rested, before I34f KB1BAS8Y TO SIAM our presentation. There was here prepared for us a repast, consistmg of abundance of dried fruits and Siamese confectionary, served up with great neatness and propriety. After partaking of this repast, we bent our way back, receiving the same compliments and marks of attention as when we entered, and we reached home about noon, so that the whole affair did not occupy above three hours and a half. We had scarcely arrived at home when olBScers came to us from the King with a civil message, bringing a large supply of Siamese confecticmary, and from twenty to thirty tubs of Chinese dried fruits and sweetmeats. By the same opportunity, we were informed that the Minister, Suri-wung- kosa, would visit us in the course of the after- noon, having received directions to furnish us with an entertainment at our own house, and there to do the honours of the feast. This visit afforded an opportunity of observing one of the most singular and whimsical prejudices of the Siamese. This people have an extreme horror of permitting any thing to pass over the head, or having the head touched, or in short bringing themselves into any situation in which their persons are liable to be brought into a situa-> tion of physical inferiority to that of others, such as going under a bridge, or entering the lower apartment of a house when the upper one is inhabited. For this sufficient reason, their houses AND COCHIN CHINA. 155 are all of one story. The dwelling which we oc- cupied, however, had been intended for a ware- house, and consisted, as already mentioned, of two stories, while there was no access to the upper apartments except by an awkward stair and trap- door, from the corresponding lower ones. This occasioned a serious dilemma to the minister. A man of his rank and condition, it was gravely insisted upon, could not subject himself to have strangers walk over his head, without suffering seriously in public estimation. To get over this weighty objection, a ladder was at last erected against the side of the house, by which his Excellency, although neither a light nor active figure suited for such enterprises, safely effected his ascent about three o'clock in the afternoon. The native Christians, of Portu- guese descent, had prepared an abundant enter- tainment after the European manner, which was now served up. The minister sat at table, but without eating. His son and nephew, the youths whom I have before mentioned, also sat down, and partook heartily of the good things which were placed before them. No oriental antipa- thies were discoverable in the selection of the viands. Pork, beef, venison, and poultry, were served up in profusion, and there was certainly nothing to indicate that we were in a country wh^e the destruction of animal life is viewed with horror, and punished as a crime. The fact 156 EMBASSY TO SIAM is, that in practice the Siamese eat whatever ani- mal food is presented to them without scruple, and discreetly put no questions, being quite sa- tisfied, as they openly avow, if the blood be not upon their own heads. The minister -put several questions of a pub- lic nature to us while we sat at table. He asked, If an account of the present mission would be transmitted to the King of England ? I replied to this, Tiiat circumstantial accounts of every transaction of the Indian Government were re- gularly transmitted to England. Upon hearing this explanation, he asked pointedly. Whether the King of England, when he heard the result of the present mission, would address a letter to the King of Siam? I replied. That his Ma- jesty the King of England had generally dele- gated his authority to the Gk)vemor-general of India, but that, if it were particularly wished for by the King of Siam, I made no question but a letter would be immediately addressed to him. There can be no doubt but that these and the similar questions put during the audience^ were dictated by the pride of the Siamese Govern^ ment, which was evidently reluctant to maintain an equal intercourse with the delegated Govern- ment of India, and courted a direct one with the Sovereign. With respect to the East India Company, it is absolutely unknown as such by the princes of the further East, who cotild liot. AND COCHIN CHINA. 157 were it right to attempt an explanation, be made capable of comprehending the delegation of a vast political power to a body of merchants. Even the natives of Hindustan, who frequently use the English word " Company,*' attach no other meaning to it than the governing power, or supreme political authority as exercised by the English. In reference to the reception which we had re- ceived in the morning, Suri-wung-kosa observed. That he trusted we were now well pleased that we had visited Siam, after the reception which his Majesty had given us in the morning ; and he added, " You are about to visit other coun- tries, and from the reception you get there, you will have an opportunity of appreciating the ho- nours which have been conferred upon you by the Court of Siam." The minister now begged to inform us that his Majesty would in future discharge the expenses of the mission ; and a silver bowl, containing 240 ticals,* was, with con- siderable ostentation, placed upon the table, and I was requested to accept of this money, as a month's allowance for our whole party. The pal^ triness of this sum, which was ^scarcely adequate to forty-eight hours' ordinary consumption of the persons attached to the mission, I am convinced never struck the Siamese officers: — I have no * The tical is worth about half-a-crown. 158 EMBASSY TO STAM doubt, on the contrary, that they thought they were acquitting themselves handsomely, — such is the sordid and pitiful manner in whidi the Go- vernment is accustomed to reward its own ofli» cers, even those exercising the highest trusts ; and such, in a word, is the real poverty both of Go- vernment and people ! I endeavoured to explain that we were all amply and liberally remunerated by our own Government, and that it was for- bidden to persons in public employment to ac- cept of money from strangers, or for the dis- charge of a public duty. It was necessaiy, how- ever, in the sequel, to accept of his fliM«<»ai> Majesty's bounty, in compliance with immemo- rial usage, and to prevent giving umbrage ; for a gift by his Majesty, whatever its amount or nature, is considered to confer so»great an ho- nour upon the person who receives it, that to reject it would be viewed by his subjects as little better than an act of sacrilege. The demeanoiu: of Suri-wung-kosa during this visit, Avas not peculiarly prepossessing. His man- ner was cold, without being well-bred or digni- fied. To tlie inferior persons who accompanied liim, lie was coarse and familiar. These indivi- duals consisted chiefly of Christians and Moham- medans, whose situation was not very enviable ; fir ho first, consisting of the Portuguese inter- ,r*-i-.'v ^i ' >'-on tbp Intendant of th** p^H- AND COCHIN CHINA. 159 wuted upon us at taUe as footmen, and the last were compelled to feign to relish his Excelloiey's bad jokes r^ecting their prejudice against pork and wine, which he pressed them to partake of. lU Ekrlxul •t'Mri' Sianiw Tnoftt. CHAPTER V. Minion visited by tlie Portuguese Conaol. — Bspadtf of ibt Court. — Visit to the Portuguese Consul. — Vint to SiamcM Temples.— Number and Variety pf the Votaries. — Viait to tbe town of Bang-kok. — Buddhist Temple. — Hindu Temple. — Andent Ruins. — Commencement of tbe Negotiatioa. — Relica of Gautama. — Despatches sent by the Minon mmm tbe Peninsula. —Visit to the Prince Krom-diiat.—Opiiuoii entertained by tbe Siamese respecting our Indian CaaqueKtM. — Foneral of a Siamese. — Excursion to the Ne^bonrhood of Bang-kok. — Religions Regard of the Siamese tta Ani- mal Life. — Splendid Temple conitructing by the Prince Krom-chiat. — Negutiution renewed. — King's Cbantcter and Emjiloymentfi. — Annual Ceremony of the King'* holding the Plough. — Punishment of a Christian Interpreter. — ^Airiral of a Portuguese and an English Merchant Vessel. April 9. — We received tins morning a visit from Mr. De Silveiro. This gentleman had come AND COCHIN CHINA. iCl to Siam about two years before, with the title of Consul from the Viceroy of Goa. The Sia- mese Gk)vemment had given him a small piece of ground to build a factory upon, and he had also commenced the building of a large ship. Mr. de Silveiro, whom we frequently saw during our residence in Siam, was a native of the Bra- zils. He spoke French and English with facility, and made many communications to us with frank- ness, fit)m the respectable stock of local informa- tion which he had already collected. In the evening Ko-chai-sahak called, and took care to remind us that we had dropped some hints respecting certain small presents which we intended to present to the King and the Prince Krom-chiat. These consisted of some specta- cles, and a few specimens of English cutlery. Such was the anxiety even for these trifles, that the officers of Government had not the deco- rum to wait until they were regularly offisred. In this visit, Ko-chai-sahak made various attempts to extract from us the object of our visit to Co- chin China; but, above all, to ascertain the na- ture and value of the presents intended for that Court. He received no satisfaction upon these points ; not because concealment was of any ad- vantage to us, but because explanation was not due to a conduct that was obviously indelicate and improper. April 10. — I had a message from the Prah- VOL. I. M 162 EMBASSY TO SIAM klang to know which of the princes covered with red tiles; — and all the principal structures are of a square form, with gable- ends. The arch and dome seem nearly un- 174 EMBASSY TO 8IAM known to Siamese architecture. All the ings are of one story only, in consequ^ice of the prejudice to which I have ahready .alluded^ — the strange horror which every man oiter* tains, confining the expression to its literal sanse, of suffering his neighbour to pass over his heed. That portion of the building which is of masoxuj, is thickly coated over with plaster, in which there is no dearth of rude ornament, but the materials are coarse, and this part of the work- manship is not skilfully finished. The greatest skill, labour, and expense, are bestowed upon that portion of the buildings which is of wood, in which are comprehended the gaUe-ends, eaves, doors, window-frames, and shutters, and the whole inside of the roof. These are paint- ed, varnished, gilt, and carved in the niost pro- fuse and laborious manner — all this decoration being equally bestowed upon what is exposed to the open air, as upon what is under cover. Of the images, the greater number were a com- position of mortar and plaster ; but, whether of this coarser material or of metal, they were in- variably and throughout richly gilt. With all this labour and expense, a Siamese temple seems far from being calculated to ex- cite those feelings of reverence and solenmity which should belong to a place of worship. The want of magnitude in any one part, the want of height every where, and the mean AND COCHIN CHINA. 176 and perishable nature of some portion of the materials, with the gaudy meretridousness of others, are far. from being calculated, accord- ing to European notions, to excite sentiments either of respect or veneration. Although, per- haps, not less costly and more ostentatious, they are greatly inferior in grandeur, and even in taste, to the Hindoo and Mohammedan monu-* ments of Western India, as well as to the an- cient monuments of Java, consecrated to the same form of worship as themselves. This character of the temples of Siam may be accounted for without difficulty. The allu- vial tract of the Menam affords no materials fen* a substantial and durable architecture ; and thus what would have been expended on solid ma^ terials, is wasted upon gilding, carving, and other temporary embellishments. The frame of society, perhaps, greatly contributes to the same effect. Every temple is built and endowed by some one in power, from personal motives of piety or ostentation. He can leave behind him, from the character of the Grovemment, no se- cure funds for the maintenance of the establish- ment, and no successor capable of supporting it The absence of a hereditary priesthood in- terested in maintaining the honour and character of particular temples, most probably conduces to the same result. The motives, therefore, to construct lasting monuments do not exist. 176 EMBASSY TO SIAM There are scarcely, I am told, any ancient monuments in Siam, notwithstanding the reli- gious zeal, which is evidently predominant. Several of the temples of Bang-kok, although the place is little more than forty years old, are already in a state of decay and neglect; and many of the splendid temples of the old capital, described to us by the European writers of the dose of the seventeenth century, are at present abandoned and in a state of ruin, the principal images having been transported to the present seat of Gk)vernment.* During the visit which I have just described, all the temples, but particularly the larger one, were, on account of the holidays, crowded With visitors, and this incident afforded us a striking picture of the manners and habits of the people. The votaries were of all ages and sexes, and the women were not less numerous than the men. The bulk were Siamese, but there were also Co- chin Chinese, Cambojans, people of Loo and Pe- gue, and a great number of Chinese. Instead of the gravity and decorum which might have been looked for in a temple, the demeanour of the * Another cause, beyond those referred to in the text> is, that the great religious merit consists in building a temple; whereas, there is little or none in repairing or keeping it up. This accounts^ in a great measure, both for the great number of temples which exist, and the want of durability in their ma- terials. AND COCHIN CHINA. 177 visitors was noisy, clamorous, and playful. They were at one moment prostrate before the idols, and at another engaged in some frolic, or singing ain idle song. One man, for example, coolly light- ed his segar at an incense-rod which a devotee had just placed as an offering before one of the idols, and another deliberately sat down before an image and played a merry air on a flageolet, while many were engaged at the same shrine in performing their devotions. The women mixed in the crowd, unveiled, as indeed they always are, and were neither shy nor timid ; on the contrary, there was considerable familiarity between the sexes; and our conduc- tors, Mohammedans, hinted to us, although I can- not pretend to say with how much truth, that the temples were frequent places of assignation. All this levity certainly formed a very striking con- trast to the decent and reverencial devotion of a Christian, or even of a Mohammedan people, and struck us with surprise. The women were the most decorous in the per- formance of their religious duties, and also the most assiduous. They went about sprinkling the images with perfumes, and making offerings to them. The oblations were of various descriptions — such as lighted incense-rods; fresh lotus, and other flowers; chaplets of artificial flowers, and cloths of various descriptions. There were, in- deed, few of the many idols which I have men- VOL. i. N 178 EMBASSY TO 61AM tioned, that were not decked with a scarf €i til or cotton doth, commonly of a yellow colour, tfa offering of some votary. The Chinese, oii thei part, burned sacrificial paper, and hung up, f votive offerings, from the roofs of the temple banners of doth or paper with Chinese inscrii ^tions upon them. No ofiidating priests were to be seen ; and, i truth, as I have dready mentioned, there was nc a Talapoin within the precincts of the temple, ea cept the few whom we met in the library, an these were distant from the crowd, and appeare to take no share whatever in what was passing. I should mention, that those who frequente the temple were not confined to the lower dasse One group of well-dressed females was pointe out to us, consisting of above thirty persoDJ These M^ere one of the concubines, and an infani child of the Prince Krom-chiat, with their atten dants. The infant, apparently not above thre years of age, appeared to have been well-tutored for he went through his prostrations with grea composure before the principal image in the cec tral temple. Several of the followers were youoj and handsome; and we were somewhat surprised at hearing our conductors request us to point ou any amongst them that we might desire to form matrimonial connexion with during our stay i Siam. Our appearance in the crowd exdted a dc^;re AND COCHIK CHINA. 179 of curiosity, which stopped short only of rudeness. — We were followed wherever we went. Our presence was sometimes announced by shouts, and a hundred idle questions were put to us, which either oiu* interpreters would not explain to us, or we had no time or inclination to answer. A strong inclination was also felt to ascertain, by personal examination, the quality and texture of oiir dress, and the nature and use of the trinkets which we had about our persons. In all this, the ludicrous importance and vanity of the Siamese character was conspicuous, even among the lowest persons whom we encountered. April 13. — We made an excursion this morn- ing through the town of Bang-kok. The ground on which it is built is a rich tract of alluvial limd, low, but not marshy, and intersected by numerous winding creefks and canals. We cross- ed the river, from our dwelling, towards the palace^ which lies along the western bank of the river. A kind of canal surrounds it, and this, which was navigable, and communicated with the river, we entered in our boats at the southern angle of the fortification, passing under the walls* which had some mean bastions, with small embra- sures, but no cannon. The canal was crowded with merchant-boats, loaded with rice, salt, cotton, dried fish, oil, dye-woods, &c. As we passed along, there was pointed out to us, on our right- hand, the residence of the fugitive prince who, N 2 180 KMfiA88Y TO blAM «« under countenance of the Siamese Government lays claim to the throne of Kamboja: it was i very poor dwelling, indeed. In our progress, we had to pass under a bridge which, after the profusion of expense which w^ had lately witnessed in the temples, afforded i surprising example of the stupid inattention o: a despotic Government and a superstitious peo pie to all objects of public convenience anc utility. The value of a very few of the bras images which we saw yesterday, would have beer sufficient to build a noble bridge at this place where it was so much required; but the one which we now saw, consisted of a single p}ank and was elevated to the giddy height of at least thirty feet. The passengers, for safety, took hok of each other's hand as they passed along it. Oul of politeness to us, and in deference to the pre- judice which I have already alluded to, thai makes it a dishonour to have others pass.ovei our heads, those who intended to go over, halted until our boat had gone through. After passing on between two and three miles behind the palace, we came to a spacious temple, which was commenced by the present King aboul two years before, and was not yet finished. Thh was of the same general form as those I have ilready described, but in costliness and magniii- ence ^a: <^xcf^lled them. The doors and window- ,.nit»r-.. ^.,*. ihe Cap?*'al« ^* j^Ai^v*'ah n{ rhc AND COCHIN CHINA. 181 wooden columns, were curiously and laboriously carved almost throughout, exhibiting figures of flowers, trees, and animals : this carved work was again richly gilt. The central temple, which, in this case, was raised on a very elevated terrace, consisted but of one chamber, or fane, measuring fifty-eight and a half English feet in height, seventy-one and a half in length, with a breadth equal to the height. A single brass statue of Gautama occupies this noble chamber, for such it unquestionably is. The image, exclusive of the pedestal, measures, in its sitting posture, twenty-nine and a quarter feet : from the point of one knee to that of the other is twenty-two feet nine inches. This was an ancient statue, lately brought down the river, from the town of Sokotai, by order of the King. The minor images in the gallery of the quadrangular inclo- sure of this temple were one hundred and sixty in number, all of plaster, and most of them in an unfinished state. At the temple we found that the festivities of the season were celebrating with deafening tumult and discord. The principal chamber was crowd^ed with people, and a noisy band of music was playing before the idol. In the same situa- tion there was a set of comedians, who excited the mirth of the crowd by their extravagant and ludicrous buffoonery. The Prah-cha-di, or " tall thilv spire," with a 18S EMBASSY TO SIAM broad base, appears to be a favourite emUem i the Buddhist religion. Accordingly we notice that the whole loose earth of the area of tk temple now visited, was here and there raise into little temporary conical mounds, on the to of each of which a rod was fixed, containing slip of paper, on which was written the name c the votary who had taken the trouble of erecting it. In the course of the day we frequently ok served floating along the river and canals, on th stems of banana-trees, numerous little mimic tena pies, which contained similar mounds of sand o earth with those I have just described. Close to this temple of Gautama our oonductoi showed us a Hindoo place of worship — a novelt in this part of the world, and therefore calculate to excite our curiosity. There w^re three temple within one inclosure, each consisting of a lon{ brick building, with an ordinary tiled roof. Ac cess to them was from one end, while 'the alta and images were at the opposite one. They wen dreary and comfortless-looking places, destitute o all ornament, and their poverty and simplicity af forded a remarkable contrast to the wealth an< magnificence of the Buddhist establishment it their neighbourhood. There was no mistaking ;:he religion which had the countenance and pro ^'^r'tion of the State. One of the three buildingi '•nntainof i'*-opr .argc haudsomc images, all in ( ^/fkitHin^ f^-'if.t^^ i.ybra«« ''vi^^h their crowns. 9*«i« AND COCHIN CHINA. 183 lets, and drapery gilded. The most distinguished was a figure of Mahadewa, nine feet high. There were several smaller ones of the same deity, with f^res of Prawati, Padmi, and Vishnu, and one statue of Brahma. A second building appeared to be dedicated to Ganesa, whose statue was the most conspicuous. Here were also four statues of Mahadewa. The third buildupg appeared to be dedicated to the worship of the Linga, of which tkere was a large gilded figure in the centre of the altar, surrounded by forty or fifty small brass images— such as those of Siwa, Ganesa, Nandna, Hanuman, the Bull ne. When they had done, they departed, without waiting for the audience, and passed through the anteroom where we sat, without taking the slightest notice of us or of any one else, for it is their duty to feign the most ab- scdute indifference towards every temporal con- cern. This was a private audience, and the Prince was surrounded only by a few of his personal friends. The interpreters, upon this occasion, were allowed to enter. The Prince began by making civil inquiries after our healths, and the nature of our occupations and amusements since our arrival in Siam, and was particularly desir- ous to have our opinion of the temples which we had visited, in comparison with similar build- ings in other countries. He had heard of our AND COCHIN CHINA. 191 conversation with the Prah-klang respecting Cey- lon, and renewed it. With the assistance of Mr. Finlayson, who had resided several years on that island, satisfactory answers were given to many of his inquiries. He asked if the whole island of Ceylon belonged to the English, and then, whether it was subject to the authority of the Governor- general of India. To this last question it was answered, that Ceylon had a governor of its own, not subject to the autho* rity of the Govemor-general, and that it was the only part of our Indian dominions so cir* cumstanced. He observed, that no doubt the King of England had made this distinction be* cause Ceylon was holy ground ! He asked whe« ther the Governor of Ceylon was equal in rank to the Govemor-general — what was the amount of the revenue of Ceylon, and whether it was remitted to England. It was explained, that the revenue of Ceylon, although considerable, was inadequate to the maintenance of the island, and that it was necessary to remit large sums from England for this purpose. He immedi- ately said, ** If this be the case, it can be of no use to you ; and for what purpose was it con- quered and is it now retained?'' We endea- voured to explain, that during the wars, in which we were lately engaged with our Euro- pean enemies who occupied the coast of the is- 192 EMBASSY TO SI AM land, they harassed our commerce from its pcHts, and ttierefore, in self-defence, there was a neces- sity for taking possession of it. Our power and our conquests in the East, of whatever nature and description, never fail to excite the alarm and jealousy of the nations of India, and lience the origin of such questions as the present. In several conversations which we held with the Siamese chiefs, they display- ed a degree of knowledge and acuteness on the subject of our Indian power, which were scarcely to be looked for in their situation. A striking example of this was afforded in a con- versation which a gentleman, attached to the mission, held with the Prah-klang. The gen- tleman in question described our nation as now at peace with all the world, but, perhaps a little indiscreetly, dwelt upon the strength and num- bers of our navy. The Siamese chief coolly observed, " If you are at peace with all the world, why do you keep up so great a navy as that which you now describe ?" The Prince, after his questions respecting Ceylon, turned the conversation to a subject of a different nature. He inquired what pro- fession Mr. Finlayson followed. It was answer- ed that he was a physician and a naturalist. He then asked whether he had studied medicine for amusement or for utility ; how many diseases the human frame was liable to ; if Mr. FinJay- AND COCHIN CHINA. 193 son knew all their names, and could cure them all ; how many races of men there existed in the world ; with a number of questions of the same nature. He said that he had heard that the English were acqu^ted with an antidote against the small-pox. In answer to this, we took con- siderable pains in explaining the discovery of the cow-pox and its value. His Highness wished to know whether the Governor-general of India would, if requested, send a skilful per- son to Siam, to instruct the Siamese in the use of this antidote. During this conversation, the behaviour of the Prince to those about him was affable, and even familiar. Among them were several Shias, or Mohammedans of the sect of Ali, whom he condescended to rally, by asking us whether, in any part of Hindustan, there were practised such fantastic and extravagant ceremonies as those observed by the Mohammedans residing in Siam during the festival of the Mohorrum. The impression which his conversation through- out the night made upon us was favourable, and he seemed certainly to maintain the cha- racter assigned to him in public estimation, of being the most intelligent of all the princes and chiefs of the Siamese Court. The Portu- guese Consul afterwards told me an anecdote respecting him, which showed that he was not insensible to deeds of high renown, or unac- VOL. I. o 194 EMBASSY TO SIAM quainted with the great events which had f cently passed in Europe. Mr. De Silvei stated that the Prince had frequently e: pressed to him his admiration of the gre achievements of the Emperor Napoleon; ai that he had at last offered him a handaoD sum of money, if he would translate from tl French into the Portuguese language a hiatoa of his wars, for the purpose of being renden into Siamese through the Christian interpretei Our audience lasted until near twelve o'doc at night. jipril SO. — We had heard much of the si gular ceremonies practised at the funeral of Siamese, and yesterday a party of us passed tl principal portion of the forenoon in witnessin the forms of one. The bodies of Siamese of s ranks are with few exceptions burned upon funeral pile, and the spot chosen for this pu pose is always the court of one of the temple Some of the temples are more frequented wil this view than others ; and we were assured tlu if we went to the temple called Tan-le*na» c the left bank of the river, and some way dow the stream, we might be quite certain of seein funeral rites performed between the hours < twelve and three. We accordingly proceedc thither yesterday, and arrived on the spot i about twelve o'clock. The ceremonies of a t\ neral were just about to commence. The bod; AND COCHIN CHINA. 195 in a cofHn which rested upon a bier, was lying under some fig-trees, of .which there were num* bers in the court or gardens surrounding the temple. These are highly venerated by the Sia- mese, who hold it to be as great a sacrilege to lop off one of their branches, as to slay one of the nobler animals, also a high offence against religion. Yet in Siam the sacred fig is not a handsome, spreading, or shady tree, " the bene- fit of it," as Knox says of the same tree in Ceylon, " consisting principally in the holiness of it." The coffin and bier together were at least seven feet iiigh, and, instead of having a dismal funereal look, had a gay and lightsome air. The bier was covered with white cloth, and the coffin itself with a gold tissue on a red ground, while its lid was decorated with tinsel ornaments. Over the coffin there was a canopy of white cloth, oma^ mented all round with festoons of fresh jessamine flowers. Both bier and coffin, besides these orna- ments, were decorated with cornices of fresh plantain stem fancifully carved. The different parts of the ceremony were usher- ed in by the discordant music of a brass flageolet, a gong, and two drums. The first part of the ceremony in order was the reading of prayers This was done by a priest of twenty-three or twenty-four years of age, from a pulpit under a wooden shed in the court-yard. The prayers o 2 196 EMBASSY TO SIAM were in the Bali language, and read from slips of palm-leaf. A small circle of persons, chiefly fe- males, sat on a platform underneath the pulpit, with a taper before each. They were neither serious nor attentive, and most probably did not understand one word of what was said. The prayers lasted about half an hour. While this part of the ceremony was going forward, the court of the temple was crowded with Talapoins of all ages, who, however, paid no attention to the solemnities which were passing within a few yards of them. On the contrary, they escaped from them, and flocked round our party, exhibiting a degree of curiosity, familiarity, and confidence beyond any thing we had yet witnessed, or rather any thing we had yet been subjected to. There was, however, no absolute rudeness, or, at least, no apparent intention of giving offence. After the ceremony of reading prayers, the priests were called upon to act their part To the head of the coffin there was attached a piece of white cloth, at least twenty feet long, of which they laid hold, ranging themselves on each side. In this situation they muttered three short pray- ers. This being over, the coffin and bier were dismantled, and the cloth which covered them dis- tributed as presents among the Talapoins. The next part of the ceremony was that of washing the body. This was performed by one AND COCHIN CHINA. 197 of the secular attendants of the temple, whose fee for each funeral is one tical. Upon the pre- sent occasion he certainly earned it well, for the body had been kept for four days, with the ther- mometer often above ninety-six, and was therefore in a most offensive state. The deceased had been a man about sixty years of age, and considerably above the lowest rank in life. His sons, daughters, and relatives, attended the funeral, and indeed took an active share in the performance of the different rites. Their demeanour was grave and decent ; but no symptom of grief escaped from any of them, with the exception of one individual, who might well be called the chief mourner. This was a young woman, about eighteen or twenty years of age, and, as we were told, the favourite daughter of the deceased. She was in mourning, — that is, had her head shaved, and was dressed in white. She sat down before the bier, and, at sight of the body, began weeping and sobbing bitterly, and appeared to be in real distress. The bier, with a layer of wet earth laid upon it, upon which was placed a heap of dried fuel, constituted the funeral pile. This circumstance distinguished the funeral from a more ordinary one; for on common occasions the bodies are simply burned upon a low earthen terrace, which was dose at hand, and on which were still lying several heaps of vulgar and neglected ashes. 198 EMBASSY TO SIAM The pile being thus prepared, the body was replaced in the coffin, and carried three aueoessive times round it, borne by the sons and sons-in- law of the deceased, and followed by the fa^ vourite daughter, uttering loud lamentations. It was then deposited upon the pile. A number of wax tapers and little incense rods were now dis- tributed to the by-standers. A priest, ejaculating a prayer, set the first fire to the pile, and was fol- lowed by the rest, and among others, by our- selves, for we had been offered tapers, and par- ticularly requested to join in the ceremony. As soon as the first flame had ascended, the daughter began to distribute small pieces of money to some beggars who were present, and who consisted chiefly of elderly women, dressed in white, who reside in the temple, and who perform menial services for the priests. The male relations of the deceased at the same time went through a most fantastic ceremony. They tied their clothes in a bundle, and standing on each side of the pile tossed them over it six successive times, taking great care not to allow them to faU to the ground. The object of this formality we could not learn, nor was it, probably, capable of any rational explanation. This ended the ceremony — the relations, however, continuing by the pile until the body was consumed. April 22. — Continuing our excursions through the town and its vicinity, we made a veiy long AND COCHIN CHINA. 199 one yesterday, which occupied us six hours. After ascending the river, for a short way, we entered a large branch called Ban-kok Yai, nearly opposite to the palace, and on the right bank. We proceeded upon this in a westerly course, for about two miles, and then entered a smaller rami- fication, which connects the three great branches of the Me-nam with each other. This last, which runs in a southerly direction, is known by the name of Bang Luang. On the principal branch there was the appearance of a brisk inter- nal trade, for this is the principal channel by which salt, teak, and Sapan-wood are brought to the capital. The first singular object that struck us in as- cending the principal branch, was a pair of neat wooden pillars painted white, one being on each side of the stream. Upon arriving near these, our conductor, who was a Mohammedan, ob- served. That beyond these posts one might " sin" without danger, but that all within them was sacred. He meant by this that the space within the pillars in- question, was considered as an asy- lum for the lower animals, but that beyond them they might be slain with impunity. In truth, it is not only forbidden to kill the larger animals within a certain distance of the King's palace, but it is even forbidden to fish in the river, with- in the boundaries which are marked by the pillars which we now saw. 200 EMBASSY TO SIAM We proceeded in all about five miles, having on each side of us a low rich country, universally cultivated, and thickly inhabited. In our route, we counted no less than twenty-two temples; some very large, and all of considerable size. Our visit terminated at that which was con- structing by the Prince Krom-chiat, and which he had called " Wat-chan-tong," or, "the tem- ple of the golden sandal tree." This, for style and neatness, far exceeded the temples which we had before visited. It was still in an unfinished state, thus exhibiting to us, in an interesting man- ner, the progress of the different parts of the work. The casting of the principal image was the first thing that attracted our notice. The different portions of it were lying about under an extensive shed, preparatory to being joined. The metal of which it was composed, was an alloy of tin, zinc, and copper, without much regard to proportions, which, indeed, would have been a matter of some difficulty ; for we were informed, that when an image of this descrip- tion is founding, it is the practice of the pious to contribute to it, and that no contribution, however trifling or incongruous, is rejected. The metal was, of course, a mere case about two inches in thickness. The casts, as they came from the moulds, were very imperfect, and there was a great deal of patchwork, occasioned by filling up crevices. These defects would be of little con- AND COCHIN CHINA. 201 sequence when the work was completed, as the whole image would be covered over, as in other cases, with a rich coat of gilding. The image was to be a sitting one, and from one knee to the other measured ten feet, which would have made it equal in size to a standing figure of nbout twenty-two feet. The plan of the temple was generally similar to that of others, and consisted of a quadran- gular enclosure. The central temple which was intended for the reception of the principal image, composed but a single apartment, and formed a noble and spacious room. The pedestal for the image was already constructed, and was extremely handsome, being cased all over with Chinese J marble, upon which was carved in relief devices of plants and animals. The roof of the temple had a singular, but not unhandsome appearance, being covered with green tiles, which colour we were told was communicated to them by a kind of varnish. The usual area, or court of the tem- ple, in this case was a neat garden, planted with ornamental and fruit-trees. The dwellings of the priests were altogether in a new style — ^for, instead of the wooden cells which accommodated the Talapoins at other temples, these were con- structed of brick and mortar, and neatly tiled and whitewashed. Their individual appearance put us, in fact, in mind of neat English cot- tages, in spite of the situation and the opposite 302 EMBASSY TO SIAM character of their tenants. They amounted to fifty in number, and were confined to one side of the square. At each end of the row there was a. building much more spacious than the rest These were the houses of the prior and abbot ; for in a monastery of Talapoins there are dig- nities corresponding to these titles. This temjde, I have no doubt, owed its existence and superior splendour to the wealth acquired by the Prince in his superintendance of the extensive foreign trade, which Siam has lately been conducting. We went into the prior's house by invitation. He received us with politeness, but the pride of his order would not allow him to pay us much personal attention. He however directed a dessert of fruits to be placed before us. Here we saw a number of priests assembled, and en- gaged in their studies. For this purpose they were seated upon the ground, each with his book before him placed on a neat reading-desk. Every thing exhibited an appearance of clean- liness, comfort, and abundance. We were permit^ ted to go over the different apartments with- out any difficulty. Some portion of the orna- ments of that of the prior himself, struck us as odd, if not out of place. These were stiff Chinese copies of English pictures in gilt frames. One, for example, exhibited a fox chase, another the charms of a country life, and the third and fourth were portraits of celebrated English beauties. AND COCHIN CHINA. 203 Many of these are copies of our best prints, J and the Chinese, by extraordinary cheapness of price, have contrived to disseminate them widely. In Siam they are very frequent, and I have no doubt a traveller would also discover them in the heart of Kamboja, Lao, or Chinese Tar- tary. We may see from this example, that in the intercourse of nations, it is impossible to discover beforehand, whether or not the pro- ductions of one be suited to the taste of the other, until the price be rendered low enough to meet the consumer's means of purchasing. Sitting amongst the priests, we observed a man of intelligent appearance, and about forty years of age, in a secular habit. Our conductor in- formed us that he was a person of great learn- ing, and that in his younger days he had been a priest; but falling desperately in love with a young woman in the neighbourhood, he had quitted holy orders to marry her ; and although courted for his acquirements, and requested to resume the monastic life, he had ever since re-, fused to quit his family. He was now employed in instructing some of the young priests. He entered freely into conversation with us, readily answered such questions as we put to him, and supplied us, on the spot, with a short vocabulary of the Bali language. With all his frankness, however, he was extremely desirous to be as- sured that we bad a sufficient respect for his 204 EMBASSY TO SIAM religion, aiid not satisfied with our assertions this effect, he would have us attest our sinoeril by making an obeisance to an image of Buddfa which was in the apartment where we we sitting. On our return home, we visited a temple, whic contained a relic of Gautama. This was the in pression of a foot, or as such relics are called b the Siamese, a Prah-bat, or "holy foot." Thb wi deposited in a small temple on the top of a artificial mount, which lay behind an ordinal* Buddhist temple. The mount was of masonr) and of a quadrangular form. The extent of eae face was about twenty-seven paces, and the heigh of the whole about twenty-two, exclusive of th little temple which contained the relic. Under neath it were many dark and winding passages in imitation of caverns; for the object of thi momuncnt was to represent one of those moun tains to which Gautama in his life-time had re tired as an ascetic. The doors of the little tempU were shut, and owing to the accidental absence o1 the keeper, but not to any reluctance to exhibit it, we had no opportunity of examining the relic April 23. — We had a conference with the mi nister last night, which lasted from nine to twelve o'clock. On this occasion, I explained at length yh^ lature of the commercial arrangements whicl '• vr ^re anxious to make, and for this purp^^' 'r\^^ AT\ih TYir ^lofpf for a tr^^fltv. "'b^'*l' 7>rnT-ir^*>r AND COCHIN CHINA. 205 generally for a free and fair trade ; for the deter- mination of the export and import duties, and of all fees and charges ; providing at the same time security for the persons and properties of British subjects resorting to Sinm. The Portuguese hav- ing obtained permission for ttie residence of a commercial agent, and a promise to a similar effect having, as was understood, been made to the Americans, we hinted at a like arrangement for the British Government. In general, no negative was put upon these various requisitions at the time, with the exception of that which provided security for the person and properties of British subjects. In answer to this proposition, the Prah- klang distinctly stated, that the King of Siam would make no alteration in the established laws of the country in favour of strangers. This in- deed was a point which could not be insisted upon. If the subjects of a free and civilized government resort to a barbarous and despotic country, there is no remedy but submission to its laws, however absurd or arbitrary, so impos- sible is it in all respects to reconcile the fair and equal commerce of nations in opposite states of civilization with the freedom of conduct which must be supposed vested in every independent government, whatever its nature. It could scarce- ly be hoped, although it has sometimes happened, that an arbitrary government should concede to strangers a degree of liberty and security which 206 EMBASSY TO SI AM it denied to its own subjects. Before parting, it was agreed upon that the conference should be renewed on the following night. April 24. — I had a sudden and unexpected visit this morning from the Prah-klang, who came, as upon the former occasion, by scrambling oyer the gable-end of the house into the corridor. I thought this visit was intended to prevent or anticipate the conference which was agreed upcm in the evening, but he came with very difierent views. He told us that he had come for the pur- pose of requesting assistance in recovering two pairs of onlinary glass lamps, which he alleged had been offered to the King by an individual belonging to the mission-ship, but afterwards sold to some one else. He said that his Majesty had set his heart on the lamps, that he was highly in- dignant at any one else presuming to purchase them, and that he had threatened half his cour- tiers with corporal punishment on account of his disappointment. I promised to inquire into the transaction, but could not help informing him that amongst us, the person who gave the best price for a commodity was generally considered as establishing the first claim to it. In the evening I had an apology from the minister, and a request that the conference might be put off to another time. The excuse made was a singular one, that his father-in-law, or at least, one of the numerous persons who stood in that AXD COCHIN CHINA. 207 relation to him, had broken a favourite mirror, at which the minister was in such distress that he # was utterly incapable of attending to public busi- ness. April 26. — We were awakened in the night by the cries of some one suffering corporal punish- ment in the court-yard of the Prah-klang's house, immediately under our windows, and in the morn- ing we heard that this was the Christian interpre- ter, attached to the mission-ship. He had failed to report the sale of the four lamps, of which the King had become so unaccountably enamoured, and this was the offence for which he had received castigation. He called upon us in the course of the day, and when we expressed our sympathy for the unmerited chastisement he had received, he only answered, that " he and the other Chris- tians had nothing but patience to support them in the country where their lot had been cast." These men are, notwithstanding, the descendants of the Portuguese conquerors of India, and, pos- sibly, some of them may have in their veins the blood of a Di Gama, or an Albuquerque; men whose very names made the monarchs of the £a$t tremble. April 27. — This was a day of some celebri.ty in the Siamese calendar, being that on which the kings of Siam, in former times, were wont to hold the plough, like the Emperors of China, either as a religious ceremony, or as an example of agricul- 208 EMBASSY TO SIAM tund industry to their subjects. This rite h long fallen into disuse, and given place to o: which, to say the least of it, is of less dignil The ceremony took place about two miles frc Baiig-kok, and, I am sorry to say, we were n apprised of it in time enough to be present. Siamese, however, who had often witnessed gave me the following description : — A person chosen, for this occasion, to represent the Kir This monarch of a day is known by the nai of Piya-Pun-li-teb, or King of the Husbondmc He stands in the midst of a rioe-field, on o foot only, it being incumbent on him to cg "'^ tinue in this uneasy attitude during the tir that a common peasant takes in ploughing on ^ round him in a circle. Dropping the other foi until the circle is completed, is looked upon as most unlucky omen ; and the penalty to *' tl King of the Husbandmen*' is said to be n only the loss of his ephemeral dignity, but al of his permanent nmk, whatever that may I with what is more serious — the confiscation his property. The nominal authority of tl person lasts from morning to night. Durii the whole of this day the shops are shut; n thing is allowed to be bought or sold ; and whs ever is disposed of, in contravention of this int€ d'c^, is forfeited, and becomes the perquisite »!*- -fving of the Husbandmen. >/^fl>pr t!er«*monv, we w^^^e told. »r»nr«npa"i .■- ii AND COCHIN CHINA. 209 the ploughing. Specimens of all the principal fruits of the earth are collected together in a field, and an ox is turned loose amongst them, and the particular product which he selects to feed upon, is, on the authority of this experi- ment, to be considered as the scarcest fruit of the ensuing season, and therefore entitled to the especial care of the husbandman. • The circumstance which led to the punish- ment of the Christian interpreter was fully ex- plained to us this morning, and was such as to exhibit the Siamese Monarch and his Court in a very ludicrous if not disgusting light. Suri- wung-kosa, the Prah-klang, had shown his Ma- jesty nine pairs of small globe lamps which were offered for sale, and of which his Majesty ap- proved ; but it so happened, that before the bar- gain was finally concluded, two pairs had been disposed of to some other person. The King missed the lamps, flew into an ungovernable pas- sion at his disappointment, and threatened the Ministers all round with the bastinado if they were not produced. Our acquaintance, the Prah- klang, was to have had for his share a hundred blows; and the King informed him, in good earnest, that his being a relation (which he was) should not screen him. In fact, we were told, that he finally escaped only by keeping out of the way until the royal anger had abated. The Ministers thought proper to consider Mr. Silveira, VOL. I. p 210 EMBASSY TO $IAM the Portuguese Consul, who was under pecuniaiy obligations to the Court, as implieated in the transaction. He was accordingly sent fot^ pttt under an arrest, and treated with indignity ; one of the Ministers informing him that he wsa liable to corporal punishment. All Bang*kok waa in a state of agitation for two days respecting these lamps, the intrinsic value of which, might be about four pounds sterling! They were at last disco- vered in the possession of an old woman, who hastened to the Palace and offered them 8$ a present, pretending that it was with this intsen- tion she had purchased them. The monarch, who was liable to these guata of anger, was the unbounded lord of the lives and fortunes of perhaps not less than five mil^ lions of people. It is but justice to him, how- ever, to observe, that the country prospered un* dcr his administration — that he was rarely guilty of acts of atrocity, and that upon the whdle he was admitted to be one of the mildest sovraeigns that had ruled Siani for at least a century and a half. April 29. — At ratlier an unseasonable hour last night, a messenger came to us from the King. He had with him a puppet near three feet liigh, not ill executed, and purporting to represent an European. The object of the mes- sage was the singular request, that any of us who were skilled in such matters, would give AND COCHIN CHINA. 211 the necesi^iy directions for having the figure attired, so as to represent f be late Empieror Na^ poleon ; or if this was a matter of difficulty, that the puppet mi^t be put into the costume of a young Englishman. Four tailors and two shoemahers aecor£ngly made their appearanxser thiB momiitg, with a supply of cloth, velvety gold lace, and leather ; and as an Indian tailor was one of our attendants, he receiveQl dinections for carrying his Majesty's wishes into effect. The King of Siam* has a taste for such amuse- ments as these, and is besides a very pious^ Prince. Every day he is said to gild with his own hands a small image of Gautama, which he presents as an offering to some temple, thus at once com- bining the indulgence of a favourite passion with a religious duty. In every matter of moment he is entirely in the hands of his ministers, but upon certain small occasions, he now and then, and somewhat outrageously too, asserts his pre- rogative, if not his dignity ; as, for example, in such an affair as that of the four glass lamps. May 1. — A Portuguese brig arrived to-day from Macao, and brought an account of the favourable termination of the quarrel which we \ had with the Chinese authorities at Canton, in consequence of the affair of the Topaze frigate. This transaction was already well known in Siam, and the Prah-klang had put several questions re- specting it to some of our gentlemen. p 2 218 EMBASSY TO SIAM May S. — ^We received to-day accounts oi If arrival of the English brig Phoenix^ from cutta. This vessel brought us public and pr p letters, and ffles of English and Indian i papers. We felt secure from all violence, therefore could read with indifierence, or a smile, the assurance which one of the Cali editors gave his readers, on the authority authentic letters kindly handed to him," . '* the King of Siam was to seize our pei r until the Raja of Queda, who had taken n . at Penang, was delivered up to him." / I AND COCHIN CHINA. 21$ CHAPTER VL N^;ociatioii put off^ owing to his Majesty's changing His Re-^ sidence* — Acquaintance made with a Siamese Priest. — ^Ar- rival of a Ship belonging to the King of Siam from Ben- gal. — Anecdote illustrative of the Character of the Siamese Government. — Visit to a singular Temple. — Renewal of the Negociation. — Arrival of Ambassadors from Ckx^iu China, and their Reception. — Second Visit to the Siamese Priest> and Conversation. — Practice of kidnapping Strangers, and selling them in Siam for Slaves. — Death of a Princess from Cholera Morbus. — Visit from some Brahmins, and an account of them, — Account of a Siamese Ceremony. — A Conference with the Prah-klang, or Foreign Minister. — Siamese Letter- writing. — Visit from a Chief of Lao. — Setting in of the South- West Monsoon.— Siamese Reptiles.— Arrival of an American Ship. — ^Another Conference. — Cochin Chinese Am- bassadors visit the Prah-klang. — Visit to the Catholic Bishop of Siam, and Conversation with him. — Another Conference with the Minister. — Pinal Conference with the Prah-klang. — Answer to the Letter of the Governor-general, and Commer* cial Engagements. May 5. — ^The negociation was now again in- terrupted, and the important cause alleged was the King's changing his residence from one por- tion of the palace to another, a matter which was 214 KMBASSY TO SIAM said to give occupation day and night to all his ministers. The benediction of the Talapoins was necessary to the King's new residence, and a few days ago we were told tliat several thousands were assembled to bestow it, who, in return for prayers^ were well fed, and presented with new garments. The right bank of the Menam, where our residence was, had only a narrow strip of dwellings along the river-side. Behind these, the country, which is extremely fertile, is intersected with narrow and inconvenient foot-paths, and frequent canals, over which there are no other bridges than single narrow planks or trunks of trees. There is no cultivation of grain to be seen any where near Bang-kok, but the whole of the land in question is occupied by fine orchards — ^for the culture of fruit-trees seems to be the most advan- tageous that can be followed so near the capital. Among these orchards here and there occur a temple. For want of a more convenient prome- nade, several of our party were in the habit of strolling over this quarter in the evening. In one of these excursions, I found an agreeable and in- structive acquaintance, in the person of the chief priest of a new temple, which the Prah-klang was constructing. I had several interviews with the same i>erson afterwards, and invariably found him kind in his manners, and cheerful in his behaviour. In point of intelligence, he was greatly suix^rior to any other Siamese with whom I had conversed; AND COCHIN CHINA. SM5 and he was always ready to communicate his know- ledge without reserve or ostentation. In my first visit, we entered freely into conversation respect- k^g the history and tenets of his religion. In the Miurse of it, he informed me that the Buddhists gladly received converts, but did not go about seeking for them; and he mentioned that four pfoselytes had been recently made from ammig the Christian inhabitants of Bang-kok, and many mvemor of Prince of Wales's Island. No direct negative was now put upon it, but there was, notwithstanding, an evident reluctance to it ; and I therefore resolved to drop the subject altogether, lest it might in« terfere with objects which promised to be more attainable. There is no question, at the same time, but that such an officer is extremely de» sirable, and will ultimately afford the only means of giving security, respectability, and extension to our commercial interest at Siam. In the pre- sent state of our acquaintance with the Siamese, however, such an appointment might lead to difficulties. An indignity offered on their part could not be overlooked— a quarrel might be the consequence, and such a quarrel might involve, in spite of ourselves, a breach of that neutral policy which we have long made it a rule to pur- sue in reference to the continental nations beyond the Ganges.* A Siamese translation of the sketch of the treaty which I proposed, had been furnished to the Prah-klang since the last conference, and the Siamese Court was, of course, now fully * This passage was written before the Burmese war. AND COCHIN CHINA. S21 aware of the nature and extent of our demands. No objections were made to the greater number of the detailed arrangements which we proposed, but a very decided one to a free and unre- strained trade. The Prah-klang insisted upon the King's right of preemption, stating that it was a prerogative which had existed from time immeftiorial, and could not be surrendered. He well knew, that as long as this was maintained, all the minor arrangements might readily be defeated. The mode of carrying on the foreign trade at Siam, is, in short, this: when a ship arrives, the officers of Government, under pre- text of serving the King, select a large share of the most vendible pai-t of the goods, and put their own price upon them. No private merchant, under penalty of heavy fine, or severe corporal punishment, is allowed to make an offer for the goods until the agents of the Court are satisfied. A large portion, and often the whole, of the export cargo is supplied to the foreign mer- chant upon the same principle. The officers of Gk)- vemment purchase the commodities at the lowest market rate, and sell them to the exporter at an arbitrary valuation. The resident Chinese alone, from their numbers and influence, have got over this difficulty, and of course are carrying on a very large and valuable commerce. This perni- cious and ruinous practice is the only real obstacle to the European trade in Siam, for neither the 222 EMBASSY TO SIAM duties on merchandize or tonnage are exeesAv^, property is sufficiently secure, and the country is fertile, abounding in productions suited for foreign trade beyond any other with which I am ac- quainted. A stout resistance was made to the exercise of tliis right, and the freedom fnnn offi- cial interference which existed, not only ttt all our own Indian ports, but in China and elsewhere, was particularly urged* I addressed myself, how- ever, to a party deeply interested m maintiuiiing the present order of things — to the individuals, in short, whose emoluments arose from the very source of corruption which was complained of, and who were not therefore likely to be conrinee^ by any arguments. The injustice of the principle was too apparent to be openly maintained, and the Prah-klaiig only attempted to palliate it by urging the moderation with which it was exer- cised, and the security which the interference of Government afforded to the foreign merchant in realizing his returns. At tliis interview the Prah-klang asked whether the British Government would enter into a con- tract with that of Siam, for the supply of salt for Bengal ; a commodity, he said, which Siam afford- ed, of an excellent quality and in great abundance. He observed that the King of Siam would con- tract at once to supply 400,000 piculs, or about 24,000 tons, and a larger quantity afterwards, if required. I was unprepared for the discussion of AND COCHIN CHINA. 223 this point at the time, bat resolved to renew it at a future interview, hoping that some advantage might be drawn from it. May 9.— On the 28th or 29th of Apr9, the arrival, at the ipouth of the Menam, of an Embassy from the new King of Cochin China was an- nounced* The Siamese Court received this mis^ Aoa with mudi respect and attention. Great pre- parations were made all the way from Pak-nam to the capital for its accommodation and recep^ tivernment ; for the three small junks in which the Embassy had arrived, were still at the entrance of the river. The Cochin Chinese Ambassadors took up their residence on 224 R^tBASSY TO STAM the opposite side of the Menam to us^ and within the enclosure of the Palace. I had some days ago sent the Mission-ship down the river, with directions, if possible, to cross the bar, that no delay might take place in quitting Siam, as soon as the negociation should be brought to a dose. Both the commander and Siamese pi- lots reported, upon this occasion, that it would not be practicable to get over the bar with less than thirteen and a half feet water, and that at present, at the highest flood-tide, there was not above twelve. This proved, in our situation, a serious disappointment; for the delay which it occasioned, threatened to defeat some of the sub- sequent objects of the Mission, and, what was still worse, to bring us in the mean time into an unpleasant state of collision with the Siamese authorities. May 12. — The Cochin Chinese Ambassadors were yesterday presented to the King. They were received, I am told, without much cere- mony, — the intercourse being considered of so friendly and familiar a nature, as not to call for extraordinary formalities. We were now permitted to go abroad freely, and at all hours, but our visits never extended Ixjyond a few miles of the town. The jea- lousy of the Siamese Government was suffici- ently apparent, and every precaution was neces- sary to prevent its taking alarm; a matter indeed, AND COCHIN CHINA. 225 which, after all, was nearly impossible. I once made a proposition to visit the old capital, which would have shown us a good deal of a country not for many years visited by Europeans; but it was received with so much coldness that I took care not to renew it. Frequent engagements to renew the conference were as often put off, and for several days to come the Prah-klang had an apology in the af- fair of his eldest son's tonsure, one of the most important events in the life of a Siamese. May 14. — I paid another visit to the old Prior of the Prah-klang s monastery. He was extremely communicative on every subject re- specting morals or religion, but upon matters of a temporal nature he refused to speak, show- ing above all a strong reluctance to touch upon any thing that was in the remotest degree of a political character. For example, he would make no communication whatever on the subject of the civil history of the country. In the course of the conversation he repeated to us the ten commandments of the Buddhist system of morals. The fifth of these says, " You shall not drink wine or the juice of the palm." The old man thought this a fitting occasion to address a lec- ture to us, and, pausing, he besought us, as we valued our happiness, to desist from drinking wine, for that the punishment of that crime in another state of existence was to have a stream VOL. I. Q 826 EMBASSY TO SIAM of melted copper perpetually poured down tlw throat ! We assured him of our moderation, but this did not satisfy him; for he seemed to ocm* sider the most trifling violation of the precept as scarcely a less offence than the sin of drunken- ness itself. In reference to the commandment which for- bids the destruction of animal life, we brought to his notice the practice of the Jains of India, who often wore a cloth over the mouth, to prevent even the accidental ingress of insects-r who always looked before they trod the ground, and who made it a practice to strain the water before drinking — all out of tenderness for ani- mal life. He seemed to consider all this as highly meritorious, and said it was a degree of piety which the priests of Siam had not attained, and that they might reasonably be ashamed of their inferiority. Returning home after it was dusk, we met two persons conversing together in the Javanese language. Its accents, in this remote place, ex- cited our curiosity, and we entered into a con- versation with the strangers. One of them re- cognized me as an old acquaintance, and described himself as one of a party, consisting of seven young men and six young women, who had been kidnapped at Samarang, in Java, about three years before, by the Commander of a Chi- nese junk, and sold as slaves to the Siamese. AN1> COCHIN , CHINA. 327 The Siamese Government ha^ e^oomntged this nefeuious practice. I am tdld, that of late years upwards of four hundred young Chinese have J been kidnapped by their cpuntrymenf and brought to Siam, and sold as slaves. Notwithstanding the vigilance which prevails !)0 EMBASSY TO 81AM August 5. — We bad this foretioon a visit from the commander of two small Chinese junks, with their followers, which had come in, in the mom- ing, bound from Tung-yai to Bang-kok, with cargoes of pepper. Our visitors were of various races — some being Chinese, others Cochin Chi- nese, and others Siamese and Kambojans; for the provinces on the eastern shore of the bay are inhabited by a mixture of all these difierent nations, as well as by other tribes still ruder. The Chinese commanders informed us, that the country of Tung-yai and Chan-ti-bun produce l>epi>er, cardamums, and eagle-wood ; the first, however, only in large quantity, and which, at Tung-yai alone, might amount to 15,000 picids yearly. They stated that the coasting trade of Tung-yai and Chan-ti-bun was greatly harassed by the depredations of pirates from Tringanu, and other parts of the Malayan penmsula. Among our visitors, I found an individual of the wild race of the Chong, who appear, as far as I could learn, to be the aboriginal inhabitants of the territory of Chan-ti-bun and Tung-yai. In features and complexion, the individual whom I now saw appeared to differ essentially from the Siamese : the hair was softer, the beard more copious, the features more prominent, and the complexion much darker. This might however have been all peculiar to the individual. He gave me a short vocabulary of his dialect, — AND COCHIN CHINA. 291 judging by which, it seems to be essentially an original language, although borrowing a consi- derable number of extrinsic terms from the Kam- bojan. August 9. — We buried two of our people this morning, a sepoy and a washerman : the first, a weakly young man, died of a chronic diarrhoea ; and the second, an old man, of a hemorrhage from the lungs. These, with the exception of a Lascar, who died of pulmonary consumption, were the only deaths from sickness during a voyage of thirteen months' continuance, and the only casualties in our party, with the exception of the Chinese who was drowned in the Me- nam. AVhen it is considered that we amounted in all to one hundred and thirty persons, in- cluding the ship's company, and that we lay in the Menam for four months, during the most unfavourable season of the year, and not very comfortably situated, this statement may be ad- duced as strong evidence in favour of the sa- lubrity of the climate of Bang-kok. Augtist 14.— We had now been nine days at the Si-chang Islands, without suspecting that there was a single inhabitant on the larger one. Yes- terday morning, however, directly abreast of the place where the ship lay at anchor, we disco- vered a foot-path, which conducted us through the forest, until it brought us to a plot of cul- tivated ground, ten or twelve acres in extent, u 2 292 EMBASSY TO SIAH surrounded in every direction by the deep fore In the centre of it was a single hut» the inh bitants of which were an old man and woma each seemingly above seventy years of age, ai very frail. The man was a Chinese, and I companion a native of Lao. Although we caD suddenly upon them, and were probably the fii Europeans they had ever met with, they receiv( us familiarly, and without apprehension invit us immediately into their cabin, and cheerful offered us plantains and Indian com. The o woman was particularly earnest and kind in fa attention. They stated to us, that their busine in that sequestered spot, was to cultivate v getables for the supply of the trading boats ai vessels which passed and re-passed between Ban kok and Chan-ti-bun ; and that one of the part the husband of the old woman, was absent the time at Bang-kok. The ground was neat laid out in the Chinese style of husbandry, ai planted with maize, yams, battatas, capsicun and cucumbers. This part of the island pi sented a greater extent of level and good groun than might have been looked for from its rugg« aspect from the harbour. This morning the old man, conformably to promise which he had made, paid us a visit < board, and returned very well satisfied with t! presents which we made him for himself and L companion. AND COCHIN CHINA. 293 CHAPTER VIII. Departure from the Si-chang Islands.-— Description of them.— Crossing the Gulf of Siam. — Sam-roi-yot, or the •' Three Hundred Peaks." — Group of Islands called Pulo-panjang* — Mission visits Pulo Condore. — Ruins of an English £M:tory«— Description of Pulo Condore. — Cape St. James. — ^Arrival in the River of Saigun. — Intercourse with the Chief of Kandyu, and description of the place. — Visit to Saigun. — Audience of the Governor. — Elephant and Tiger fights.— Description of Saigun and its River.— Departure from Saigun^. for the Capital. AprU 5.— Having completed our wooding and watering, and otherwise prepared the ship for sea, we weighed anchor at ten o'clock this forenoon^ in prosecution of our voyage to Cochin China, and stood across the Bay, making for the pro- jecting land on the western coast, called in Euro- pean charts the Point of Cin. The following is a brief description of the Si- chang Islands. They are eight in number, and the largest five miles in length, and about a mile and a quarter in its broadest part. Their coasts are in general bold and rocky, with here and there 894 EMBASSY TO 8IAM a sandy cove intervening. With the exoeptioi of a few spots, where the rocks are so steep an abrupt, as to preclude any soil resting upon them their surface is covered every where with forest trees. The rock formation is primitive^ consistin< of granite, occurring so low in position, as gmc rally to be visible only during the ebb of the sei There then occurs quartz rock, and finally blu granular limestone, on which repose the soil aiu vegetable mould. The occasional minerals fount were white quartz, in veins intersecting the lime stone, quartz, and granite — ^veins of dolomit occurring in the limestone only ; and on one o the smaller islands, veins of jaspery iron-ore in th< quartz rock. On the bolder parts of tlie coast o: the larger island, there were several caverns U which we had access from our boats, and which from the fantastic fonns of the stalactites anc stalagmites with which they were oommonl} lined, presented a very singular and picturesque appearance. Mr. Finlayson described the botany of the islanc as highly interesting, and as having afforded hur a number of new species. Among the plants, nc palm is to be found, — a novelty in countries sc close to the Equator. Tuberous rooted planb abounded; amongst which, one was of so sin- gular a description, that it deserves particulai mention. This, according to Air. Finlayson and AND COCHIN CHINA. • 295 Dr. Wallich's opinion, was a new species of meni- spernum. What was chiefly remarkable in it, was the enormous size of the tuberous roots. One of these, which we brought on board, weighed 150 lbs. ; another, 350 lbs. ; and a third, 474 lbs. The last measured nine and a half feet in cir- cumference. These, with several smaller ones in a living state, were conveyed to the botanical garden of Calcutta. Not above one-fourth part of the enormous mass of these roots was buried in the soil, the rest being entirely exposed. The small size of the stem, which was scandent, formed a singular contrast with the bulk of the root : it was scarce half an inch in diameter in its thickest part. We found this extraordinary plant growing on two or three of the smaller islands, generally in a scanty and rocky soil, not far frcmi the shore, and always under the shade of trees. Its substance was white, dense, farinaceous, and somewhat bitter to the taste. The natives, with some propriety, called it Fai-pun-chang, or the " elephant yam ;" and hiformed us that it was capable of affording an esculent farina, which they sometimes had recourse to in times of scarcity, but they evidently put little value upon it. The only quadrupeds which we observed on these islands, were a large species of rat, and a small squirrel about a foot long. This last was numerous in the forest, and we obtained several 296 EMBASSY TO SIAM specimens. It was of a milk-white ooloar, the paws excepted, which were black.* Among the birds, the most frequent was tlie white pigeon, already mentioned. On one of the small islands, we saw and succeeded in obtaining specimens of what we considered a new spedes of pigeon. This was somewhat larger in size than an ordinary domestic pigeon, of a reddish brown colour, with a metallic gloss over the neck and back, having the wines and tail black, and the head ash-coloured. It was a very shy bird. A small species of green pigeon, or dove, with a yellow breast, was also procured. Fish- ing eagles, of a large size, were seen in consi- derable number, and specimens obtained. The harbour of Si-chang and the neighbouring seas ap])eared to abound in fish ; but the natives were indolent and uncnterprizing, and seemed satisfied with taking what was sufficient for their own immediate wants, and no more. Hamilton t is the only writer whom I have met with that takes notice of this group of islands. He calls the whole, the Dutch Islands, and the principal one, or Si«chang, " Amsterdam." They apjx^ar to have received these names on ac- count of the ships of the Dutch East India Com- * This appears to be a new species, and Dr. Horaefield has appropriately named it after the late Mr. Finlayson. t Hamilton's new account of the East Indies, from 1688 to 1723, vol. ii. AND COCHIN CHINA. 297 pany which frequented Siam in the seventeenth century, being in the habit of taking shelter at them in the south-west monsoon. English ships, it would appear, had been occasionally in the habit of doing the same thing. August 15. — A fine steady breeze brought us yesterday quite across the gulf, which, at its head, does not appear to be above fifty miles broad. In the passage, the high land was gene- rally visible on both sides. At noon, to-day, we were in the latitude of 13** 2', close to the western shore, and in five fathoms water. A few miles to the north of us was seen the entrance of a river, upon which is situated the town of Kwi. The view to the west of us was novel and imposing. The shore was a sandy beach, and behind it was a narrow strip of land, beyond which nothing was to be seen but a succession of peaked mountains to the verge of the horizon. Some of the peaks appeared to be not less than 3000 feet high. Se- veral were insulated, and, rising abruptly from the plain to the height of many hundred feet, presented the appearance of artificial cones. The Siamese give to these mountains, with some pro- priety, the name of Sam-roi-yot, which means, in their language, " the 800 peaks." August 17. — We continued all yesterday and last night to work along the western shore of the gulf; and when we had made the head- land, which is called in the charts the Point of 298 KAIBASSV TO SIAM Ciii, but correctly written Kwi, we stood acroM the bay with u six-knot breeze for Pulo UbL AvffHJtt liO.— On the 17th and 18th we OOD- tinucii our course across the bay with a favour- able wind, and yesterday afternoon, at three o cliK*k, anchored ofl* the group of islands called I'ulo Panjang, to the north side of the largest island, in eighteen fathoms water. A party land- ed innnediately. The island, which is about three miles long and two broad, is composed of a mass of sand-stone, in which we found some common jasper, of a reddish bn)wn colour, and some veins of jas})ery iron-ore. The coast, wherever it was visible to us, amsisted of huge fragments of this rock, piled one upon the other, and rendering the landing difficult and precarious, even with the fine weather which we enjoyed at the time. The island, elevated every where, but exhibiting no peak or hill distinct from the general aspect, was as usual covered with thick wood, into which we found it difficult to penetrate even for a few yards, on account of the prevalence of climbing ])lants. The only quadruped we saw was a handsome greyish brown squirrel, which was new to us. This group of islands consists of seven. The name Pulo Panjang, or " long island,'' is Ma- layan, and has probably been imposed by the Malay pirates, who occasionally visit it in their passage across the gulf when engaged in their AND COCHIN CHINA. 299 predatory expeditions against the Siamese and Kambojan establishments on the eastern coast. In the course of our excursion we came acci- dentally upon a copious fall of fresh water, and leading to it saw a pathway, which, however, had not lately been trodden. This spot was most likely the usual place of resort of the rovers in question. At daylight this morning we set sail, passing close to the two islands which lie immediately south of the principal one. These exhibited se- veral sandy bays, upon which a landing might be effected without inconvenience. August 21. — Last night we passed the false Pulo Ubi, and, at four this morning, the true Pulo Ubi, at the distance of two miles, and between it and the main of Kamboja. We had now fairly entered the Chhiese Sea, and pursued our course towards Pulo Condore. August 22. — Yesterday afternoon, we passed the little islands, or rather rocks, called The Brothers. The largest is not above a mile in circumference ; a steep and almost inaccessible rock, with a few stunted shrubs growing on the summit. We passed within half a mile of it. It was covered with innumerable sea-fowl, chiefly black and white mews. We came within a few miles of Pulo Condore in the course of the evening, and lay to all nighty that we might have daylight to enter the harbour. We accord- I 300 EMBASSY TO 81 AIT ingly sailed into the bay this morning, whid presented a very noble prospect An ampbi theatre of steep mountains terminating in a bdi and rocky coast, forms the harbour to the aouthen and western sides. The northern and eastern an formed by six islets of various siaees, which affon a much less effectual protection. We had scarod] come to an anchor, when a native boat came along side; — thus affording an example of early confi dence on the part of the Cochin Chinese, whici pleased us when we compared it with the dis- tnist and timidity always evinced by the Siamew throughout their intercourse with us. After breakfast, a large party landed, and passed several hours in visiting the village, 01 rambling over the shores and woods. Opposite to the place where we anchored was a sandy beach about two miles in extent, with a traci of low land behind it, extending to about a mile and a half to the foot of the hills. This plain is sandy, and covered with a tall forest, which, being free from underwood, admitted our walk- ing through it without difficulty. Towards one extremity of it there was a brook of fresh water, in following which, and about half a mile from the shore, w^e came suddenly upon the ruins of the English factory which had once existed at Pulo Condore. These consisted of the founda- tions of the fort ; scattered bricks and stones ; fragments of coarse earthenware, and porcelain AND COCHIN CHINA. 301 in very considerable quantity, and broken pieces of tobacco-pipes of European manufacture. The forest about the ruins, was as tall and luxuriant as any where else. The establishment had been destroyed one hundred and eighteen years before, having been formed in the year 1702, and trea- cherously cut off by its own native garrison in 1704. The English who had formed the settle- ment at Pulo Condore, were the same who had been forced to abandon the factory of Chusan in China ; and the remnant of whom having after- wards formed the settlement of Banjarmassin, in Borneo, were driven from this place also through their great imprudence. The Governor, Mr. Ketchpoole, had, according to the practice of those times, engaged some natives of Celebes as soldiers, stipulating to discharge them in three years — an engagement which he failed to fulfil, and tlie breach of which provoked these san- guinary people to rise upon the English, and murder aU who were within the fort, in the dead of the night, and as they lay in their beds. A few who lodged outside the fort, hearing the cries of their countrymen when attacked, took the alarm, and, gaining the beach, embarked in a boat that happened to be ready ; and after a perilous voyage reached the territories of the King of Jehor, who received them with hu- manity and kindness. I found, on inquiry, that the natives were not unaware tliat Europeans had 302 EMBASSY TO SIAM onoe been settled amongst them; but it was a affair of mere vague tradition, and they coul give IK) precise information on the subject. ^Vt the only village in the plain before-mer tioned, the natives welcomed us with great franli ness, and with a confidence which was extnoi dinary, considering that they liave little or n intercourse with Europeans. As we approache the village, we found the young men playinj at foot-ball on the sand. They interrupted thei sport to accompany us to an interview with th Chief. This person, a respectable-looking mar of about forty-five years of age, received us a first under a shed, but, as our acquaintance an familiarity grew, conducted us to his own house and communicated without reserve on every to pic of our inquiries. We were, in every respect highly gratified by our intercourse with the» poor |)eople. After returning on board, the Chie and a large party of natives paid us a visit Almost every one had a small present to offer Tlie Chief, on liis part, presented us with som< fresh fish and a turtle; and from the rest w< received fowls, eggs, cucumbers, melons, and othe vegetables. They were reluctant to take pay ment in money for any thing they offered, bu gladly accepted cloth, cutlery, and other article of European manufacture. In the conduct o this little traffic between us, there was a d^re of delicacy shown on their part, favourably op AND COCHIN CHINA. 303 posed to the rapacity which pervaded every class of the Siamese, with which we held any inter- course. One of our gentlemen presented an old man with a piece of white cloth, while ^e were on shore. He immediately produced a hen, in return. This the gentleman at first declined ac- cepting, but was compelled to do so when the old man threatened to return the cloth. The g«i- tleman, upon this, made him an additional pre- sent; upon which, the old man produced two additional fowls, resolving not to be outdone. We parted very good friends in the evening, after a pressing invitation, on their part, to pro- long our stay. The chief, on going away, begged us to furnish him with a writing, stating that the Mission had called at Pulo Condore, which he might show to any English ships that might hereafter frequent the place. This I gladly com- plied with, and, I think, I may safely recommend future navigators, visiting the islands, to the hos- pitality of Cham-Kwan-Luang, which was the name of this worthy person. The islands known by the name of Pulo Con- dore are twelve in number, of various sizes. The largest is twelve miles in length, and about four in its greatest breadth, but not above half this in some places. Others of the group are little better than rodcs. Pulo Condore is the farthest limit of the Malayan navigation to the eastward. For what purpose, or under what cir- 304 EMBASSY TO 8IAM cumstances, these people were in the^ habit of frequenting the island^ 1 am unable to tell ; but I think it not improbable that it was a statioD from wliieh, in the days of their power, and probably before the arrival of Europeans, they conducted their piratical depredations against the ])eaceable coasts of Kamboja and Cochin China. The two words Pulo Condore mean, in the Ma- lay language, the Island of Gourds —a name not known to the Anam language, in which it is called Kohnaong. The centre of the large island lies in latitude S*" 40' North, and in longitude lOG^ 42"' East, about forty-five miles distant from the mouth of the western branch of the K!am- boja river. The general aspect of this group of islands, compared to all that we had hitherto seen, was bleak and rugged. The land is moun- tainous and precipitate, commonly ascending at an angle of even beyond 45^ from the very sea. The great island especially is one mountainous chain of this description, the highest part of which is, to all appearance, little less than 1800 feet above the level of the sea. Wherever the hills are exposed to the direct influence either of the south-west or north-east monsoons, they are either altogether bare, or covered only with coarse grasses or herbaceous plants ; but, on the contrary, where there is shelter, the forest is as luxuriant as in the countries upon the Equator itself. The geological structure of the island AND COCHIN CHINA. 305 is primitive, consisting, wherever we examined it, of sienite or sienitic granite, and common grey granite; the latter, however, only in small quantity. The rock was so hard, especially where the sienite prevailed, that it destroyed our ham- mer3» and we found great difficulty in obtaining even a few hand specimens. Nothing can be more unfavourable to the accumulation of soil than such a structure as that of Pulo Condore, — where the rock is so hard, as to be little liable to decomposition — where the hills are precipitate, - — and where heavy rains prevail, which must wash down the little soil that might otherwise be disposed to rest upon a surface so unfavour- able. Mr. Finlayson found the botany of the island exceedingly interesting by its novelty and variety ; more especially, as many of the plants were at the time in flower or fruit. The common mango (Mangifera IndicaJ was discovered in the forest, where we also found an esculent grape. Dampier, whose account of Pulo Condore is marked by his wonted fidelity, says, that both these, as forest fruits, were ripe when he visited the island in the months of Match and April. He states that the last of these was agreeable to the palate, and the first equal to any cultivated variety of the same fruit which he had ever eaten. . In respect to the mango, we had no opportunity of bearing testi- mony to his accuracy. . VOL. I. X 306 EMBASSY TO SIAM Of quadrupeds we saw only monkejra and squir- rels. The most frequent of the last was a small animal of a jet black colour all over. Of this we obtained a living specimen. It had been reported that wild oxen were to be found in the forests of Pulo Condore, the descendants of those intro- duced by the English settlers; but the natives stated that this was not the case. The white pigeon was again seen with a very large green pigeon, common in the Malayan peninsula and the adjacent islands, and which I believe to be no other than the copper-coloiu^ nutmeg-eater of the ]!^Ioluecas. The village on the large bay consists of three hundred inhabitants. There are two other esta- blishments upon the island, and the whole popu- lation, according to the information supplied to us by the Chief, amounts to eight hundred per- sons. These are all natives of Cochin China ; J and there are neither Chinese amongst them^nor Kambojans, as has been asserted. Among those whom we saw, there was certainly no appearance of want of comfort. The houses were all built upon a level with the ground, the dry and sandy nature of the soil precluding the necessity of nds- ing them upon posts. Persons of all ages had a healthy look, and many of them, being well clothed, had even a decent and respectable ap- pearance. Numbers were marked with the small- pox—showing that this disease had been com- AND COCHIN CHINA. 307 mitting its ravages among them. There was nothing seen to warrant a belief of what has been reported of the unhealthiness of the climate. The inhabitants of Pulo Condore cultivate a small quantity of rice, of which we 6aw some patches in the forest ; but their prindpal supply is ob- tained from Saigun. Besides rice, they plant a little maize and some cocoa*nuts, and raise a few cucumbers and other common esculent vegetables. Their principal occupation, however, is catching turtle, fishing, and extracting dammer, a kind of pitch, and wood oil, from the large forest-trees. It is these last objects, with live turtles, oil made from turtle fat, and dry fish, which they exchange for clothing and food at Saigun. In live turtle also they pay their tribute to the King of Cochin China, to whom the islands belong. Of late years, Pulo Condore has rarely been visited by European voyagers. Lord Macartney, in his way to China, in 17929 touched at it with the expectation of receiving refreshments for his sick, but was disappointed, and went on to Tiuan. The Chief of the island informed us, that although he had seen many ships pass close by the island, none had ever come into the bay in his recollec- tion. Five years ago, one European vessel sent her boat in, and received a few refreshments. The Hai-nan junks carrying on the tnule be- tween that island and Siam, and now the Cochin Chinese junks trading with Singapore, make a X 2 308 EMBASSY TO SIAM ' practice of touching at Pulo Condore for wood and water^ and these are the only description of vessels which frequent it. Its convenient and favourable position^ as a commercial emporium, are sufficiently obvious, and did not escape the sagacity of Dampier. We heard at Pulo Condore, that the King ci Cochin China was at present residing at his capi- tal, the city of Hu^; and that Chao-Kun, the Governor of Lower Cochin China, the person of greatest influence in the kingdom, was at Saigun. We were particularly desirous of having an inter- view with this last individual, as well as of visiting the city of Saigun, which, with the exception of Kachao in Tonqiiin, was reported to be the richest and most commercial part of the kingdom. Ac- cordingly, with this object in view, we sailed from the bay of Pulo Condore at five in the evening, directing our course for Cape St James. August 24. — Early yesterday morning. Cape St James was visible at the distance of about twenty- five miles, having then the appearance of three small islands. It falling calm, however, and the tide being against us, we anchored until the afternoon, when we again made sail, and early this morning reached the Cape, and anchored off the bay of Cocoa-nuts. Cape St. James's, a pro- montory of from three to four hundred feet high, forms the <\istem entrance of the nver of Sai- .^iin. i"io .vcurHnfT nfter ;^«issinc « ^^'^ cr^«t »f AND COCHIN CHINA. 809 two hundred miles extent, where not a hill or elevated spot is seen, forms an excellent Iqjid- mark for the entrance of the river, which can- not well be mistaken. Being within little more than a mile of the shore we landed, while the ship was waiting for the flood-tide. The pre- vailing rock which forms the hilly range of Cape St. James, is a tough, hard granite, intermixed occasionally with sienite. The mountains are wholly uncultivated, being covered with a scanty forest, of which the bamboo forms a considerable part. We heard the crowing of the wild cocks in the woods, and saw some fishing'^eagles and ring-doves, but no quadrupeds. In the afternoon, when the flood-tide made, we sailed for the anchorage of Kandyu, which we reached before dusk. As we passed the vil- lage of Pungtfto, which lies in the angle of the bay, where the ridge of hills fanning Cape St. James's ends, the Mandarin, or petty officer of the place, came on board with a large party of followers. He was a little, lively old man, whose age was little short of sixty. We were forcibly struck with the contrast which he and his followers formed with the first Siamese with whom we became acquainted at the entrance of the Menam. The Cochin Chinese were m6re decently clad, and instead of being sluggish and sullen in their manners, were lively and dvil. This officer recommended to us to write a letter 31U EMBASSY TO SI AM to the Governor of Saigun, to be fcnrwarded through the Chief of Klandyu, who was his superior officer. We accordingly wrote an Eng- lish letter to His Excellency, with a French trans- lation, understanding at the time that several French gentlemen were at Saigun, and that it was possible there might be no person there who could understand the original. This letter we transmitted to the Mandarin of Kandyu. He sent a polite message, in answer, to say that a list of the persons attached to the Mission, of the ship^s company, and of the guns, arms, and ammunition, in the Chinese character, would be necessary to send to the Governor of Saigun, with our letter. This requisition was complied with. The point of Kandyu may be looked upon as the actual mouth of the river on its right or western bank. From Cape St James to this place, a distance of nine nautical miles, may be viewed rather as a bay of the sea than a por- tion of the river. On the western side, oppo- site the high lands of Cape St. James, an exten- sive mud-bank, proceeding from a flat shore, nar- rows the channel for ships entering to about two and a half nautical miles. From the edge of this bank to the shore on the eastern side, this spacious bay is not less than four and a^ half miles broad. In mid-channel there is every where from six to nine fathoms ; and after you AND COCHIN CHINA. 311 have fairly entered the river, rarely less than ten ; so that this fine stream is navigable for ships of almost any burthen, and it scarcely requires a pilot throughout. Relying upon our bearings and soundings, and on our charts, we stood boldly on at night, as if we had been entering a har- bour well known to us. The actual breadth of the true mouth of the river is about one and a half English mile. We were now anchored immediately behind the Point of Kandyu, secure from every wind. To the eastward, the hills of Cape St. James, and more to the north an elevated range of mountains, seemingly about twenty-five miles dis- tant, were visible. Every where else nothing was to be seen but the low and wooded shore, with fishing villages here and there thuily scattered over it. The extraordinary clearness of the wa- ter, for so large a river, coming through an ex- tensive alluvial tract, forms a striking contrast with the disturbed and muddy streams of the Ganges and Menam. AtLgust 25. — The Mandarin of Kandyu, whose authority seems to extend over all the inhabitants about this part, amounting, as we were told, to about two thousand in number, had promised last night to pay us a visit in the course of to-day, and accordingly he came on board as early as seven o'clock in the morning, with a great number of followers. He was superior in appearance to any 312 EMBASSY TO SI AM of those wlio came on board yesterday. He seemed near seventy years of age, but fall of vivacity. Neither he nor those who accompanied him were, in any respect, less civil or pbUging than our visitor of yesterday. We soon found our new acquaintances to be great and vehenient talkers, and their conversation was accompanied by a more than moderate portion of gesticulation. It readily occurred to us, that there was in exte- rior, althougli it unquestionably amounted to nothing more, some foundation for the Cochin Chinese being called the French of India. The old chief brought us a supply of fresh fish, and we presented him, in return, with some cloth, cutlery, and, what seemed to be no less welcome, some brandy. He promised to forward, with all speed, our letter to the Gk)vernor of Saigun, and said, that in a day, or a day and a half, we should have a reply ; and that he rested assured the Gro- vernor would be gratified with the visit which we proposed paying him. August *i6. — Mr. Finlayson, Mr. Rutherford, and myself, visited the old chief last night, and were received with great cordiality. Tea and to- bacco were served to us. Kandyu is but a poor place, and the chief's residence a very paltry one ; but the hosj)itality of our reception made some amends for the homeliness of our entertainment. At an early hour this morning he visited us again. A number of fishermen had come on bo2u*d in the AND COCHIN CHINA. SIS course of yesterday, and furnished us with an ample supply of fine fish at very low prices. En- couraged by our prompt payment, they had re- paired to us again this morning, and the old chief found two of them on board. It appears they had come without orders, and the followers of the man in office began, in a manner quite unexpected to us, to punish them summarily on the spot for this alleged breach of duty. Our attention was called to this practical illustration of Oriental go- vernment, by seeing one of the fishermen taken into custody; the officer, as he carried him oflF, cuffing him over the face, and kicking him with such ludicrous address, that his foot, at every effort, reached sometimes the loins and sometimes the shoulders of the alleged offender. The fisher- man's defence consisted in throwing himself on his face, on the deck, making three prostrations, ac- knowledging his offence, and crying for mercy. I complained to the chief of this piece of violence ; but he treated the matter very lightly, and seemed to regard the fisherman's offence rather as a breach of etiquette, or neglect of customary forms, than as any thing more serious ; and assured us that it should be attended with no inconvenience to us, or farther injury to the fisherman, who was im- mediately released. The old man, after partaking of tea and liqueurs, left us. In the forenoon, Mr. Rutherford and myself went on shore, and were received by the old 314 EMBASSY TO SI AH Mandarin with the same cordiality as upon the first occasion. Requesting us to leave our Indian attendants behind, he conducted my companioD and myself into his private apartments. Here we found a respectable-looking middle-aged wo- man, the chief's wife, and three young and comely girls, his daughters. The ladies did not appear by any means abashed or discomposed by the appear- ance of strangers. Seeing that we were disposed to take the diversion of shooting, the old man sent two of his principal people to accompany us, and we wandered over the fields near the village, passing through the principal part of the latter on our return. The village of Kandyu is built upon a creek, connected with the river. The inhabitants consist of about three hundred fami- lies, or between one and two thousand inhabitants. The men were, I believe, chiefly out fishing ; but the women and children were very numerous. Although the land lies here so low, the houses are all upon a level with the ground, and not raised on posts as amongst the Siamese. Our appearance excited a good deal of curiosity, and the inhabitants flocked round us in numbers, ob- serving a very civil and respectful demeanour. The village appeared well stocked with hogs and poultry, and there were at least no outward marks of want or misery. During our excursion, we visited two tem- ples about a mile distant from the village. They AND COCHIN CHINA. 315 were built of brick and lime, and roofed with red tile, having the ridges and eaves ornamented with figures of animals carved in wood and painted. Each consisted of two cliambers, in the first of which was an altar of brick and lime, having upon it two figures of storks op- posite to each other. The inner chamber con^- tained a number of elevated masses of brick and mortar, resembling tombs. The walls were painted with figures of tigers and fish, and with dragons and other monstrous animals. There seemed no distinct object of worship, either statue or picture. We were told, however, that the temples were dedicated to certain great fishes, which were represented as the tutelary deities of the place, and the protectors of the fisher- men of Kandyu and its neighbourhood. The mounds of brick and mortar, resembling tombs, of which I have spoken, were alleged to con*- tain the remains of some of the fishes in ques- tion, which had been stranded on the shore of the bay of St. James. Connected with each of the temples, was a poor mean-looking house, where justice, we were told, was administered. Near at hand was an extensive burying-grouhd, the tombs commonly consisting of rude mounds of earth, the outer sides now and then cased with rough stones. August 28, — This morning early, the Man- darin of Kandyu came on board to inform us, 316 EMBASSY TO SIAM that a reply to our letter had arrived late last night, and that a deputation had reached the place from the Governor of Saigun, to invite and escort us up to his residence. We were informed that the persons who composed the deputation, waited only for our sanction to come on board. Upon receiving this, they accordingly came off without delay. The deputation con- sisted of seven Mandarins in four boats, the two largest of which, meant for our accommodation, were manned each with forty oars. The rowers were dressed iii scarlet, and had on a kind of helmet, with a plume of cock's feathers. They rowed the boats standing upright, and facing the prow. The lYiembers of the deputation were well dressed in silks, and had in all respects an air of much respectability. Their manners were brisk and lively ; they spoke and laughed a great deal, and seemed under no constraint. Our con- versation only touched upon our visit to Sai- gun. We endeavoured to provide as well as we could against detention, and were assured by them that we should not be delayed there be- yond three days. We had at first intended to have gone up in the ship, but finding that our passage up and down in this manner would be tedious, we abandoned the project, and resolved ^.o proceed in the barges now sent down to re- ^oivrk i|fi In fh(^ (lispnwor whicV* ^i\nU rAstn^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 817 perfect urbanity aud good humour were observed on the part of all the members of the deputa- tion. Few questions were put by them^ and these few were not ill-bred or importunate, as in our first intercourse with the Siamese. The most material one had for its object to ascer- tain whether the Mission came from the King of England, or from the Gk)vemor-general of In- dia. To this we generally answered that His Majesty the King of England sent no embas- sies to any of the princes of the East, and that when they were necessary, he usually deputed his authority to the Govemor-genend of India. After partaking of tea and liqueurs, the depu- tation took their leave, and were saluted. August 29. — At six o'clock yesterday evening, Mr. Finlayson and I embarked for Saigun. The whole of our party consisted of thirty-three per- sons. One of the boats afforded very comfort- able accommodation for Mr. Finlayson and myself, but the rain poured down in torrents during the night, and we could not avail our- selves of the moonlight to observe the appearance of the country as we ascended. As soon as day broke we observed, on each side of the river, a wide extent of champaign country, cultivated every where with rice, and over which villages were thickly scattered. At eight o'clock the city of Saigun was visible on the right or western bank of the river. Before coming to it we saw S18 KMBASSY TO SIAM for several miles, on each side of the streaxn, a fine avenue of trees, and a public road, which we were told led to the city. At nine o^dock we reached the usual landing-place, where we had to wait for a considerable time before the house destined for our accommodation was de- termined on. The apology offered for this de- tention was, that the day was a great festival, and that the Governor and other Chiefs were en- gaged at the temples in their devotions. We were, at length, conducted through a large creek, or canal, which falls into the wes- ton side of the river, and which communicates with the fortress, to the place destined for our reception. This was a large public edifice, a kind of town-hall, exactly in the form of an Indian bungalow, with a porch and arcade in front. A number of persons were employed in preparing it for our reception, and there was a great bustle. An officer and twenty soldiers were ordered as a guard for us, and double sentinels were placed at the gate to keep off the crowd, that from curiosity was pressing in to see us. A number of servants were also appointed to wait upon us. About one o'clock a deputation of two Mandarins of rank came to compliment us upon our arrival, and, losing no time, also to discuss public matters with us. These two persons, we were ^ven to under- AND COCHIN CHINA. 319 the city. Their manners were very good, but had more of Chinese gravity in them than those of the persons who had come to meet us at Kandyu. They were far superior in rank to even the senior of the latter, who, 1 observed, stood up in their presence; for this is the at- titude of respect towards superiors among the Cochin Chinese. They began by requesting that we would recommend to our followers and people a guarded conduct in their intercourse with the • inhabitants of the country ; for that, if any disputes arose, it would be an unpleasant matter to us, and an affair of great scandal to the Cochin Chinese Government We assured them that tlie strictest injunctions had been given to our people upon the subject After this we were asked whether the Mission was deputed by the King of England, or by the Gk)vernor.general. We replied, by the Grover- nor-general, by whom the diplomatic intercourse with the princes of India was commonly con- ducted, since his Majesty the King of Eng- land was too far away to conduct such matters directly with convenience. We were then asked how long we had been from Bengal, what coun- tries we had visited, how long we had remained in them, &:c. &c. When Siam was mentioned, we were asked if we had had an audience of the King, and whether there were now any English ships there; to which questions we an- J 320 EMBASSY TO SIA.V . swered in the affirmative. The evident object of such interrogatories was to ascertain the na- ture of our reception, and the result of our mis- sion. We were now asked, if we had been directed by the Governor-general of India to visit the Governor of Lower Cochin China. We said, that we had the Gk>vemor-general*s sanc- tion to do so, if we thought it necessary. The deputies answered, that if this was the case we had a letter for the Governor of I^wer Cochin China, as a matter of course. We said we had no letter, for it was not the custom of our C^vemment to address a subject, however high his rank, without the authority and sanction of his own sovereign. The deputies then de- manded to know for what purpose we had vi- sited Saigun. To tliis question a full, and to all ap})earance a satisfactory explanation was given. It was then asked, if there were any presents for the King of Cochin China. In reply to this, a few of the principal articles were eniimCTated. This was deemed quite enough, and no fartlier questions were put re- specting this matter. A more difficult topic, -however, was now started. The deputies had informed us, that the Governor of Lower Cochin China, wished to see the letter of the Governor-general to the King, that he might have an opportunity of making a report upon it to the Capital. — We men- AND COCHIN CHINA, 321 tioned, in a few words the purport and contents of the letter, and gave the deputies to understand^ that we had offered to show it to the deputation that came to wait upon us at Kandyu, and that we had also tendered a copy and translation of it to be presented to the Governor of Lower Cochin China, but that both proposals were de- clined as unnecessary. We dwelt on the incon- venience and delay, at such an advanced and precarious state of the monsoon, that would at- tend our sending for the letter to the ship, as even a day or two was now of consequence to us. In their reply to this, they took no notice of the circumstance of the Mandarins who went to Kandyu, declining the proposal of seeing the letter there, or bringing copies of it to Saigun, but asked us how the Governor, in writing to Hu6, could reasonably describe a letter, the con- tents of which he had no opportunity of verify- ing by his own inspection. We now offered to exhibit the letter to any officer who might be sent down to the ship to inspect it, and in the meantime to bring up copies and transla^ tions. This, however, was not deemed sufficient. Several messages passed and repassed between the deputies and the Governor during the con- ference, the purport of which we could not learn. This business ended by the Mandarins inform- ing us that the matter would be taken into far-, ther consideration to-morrow morning, when we VOL. I. Y 322 EMBASSY TO SI AM should have a final answar. During this long conversation, in accordance with their mixed cha- racter of lawyers and diplomatists, no inconsider- able share of skill and dexterity in questioniiig and cross-questioning was displayed by llie Q>- chin Chinese deputies. The interview lasted between five and six hours, so that^ with our journey, it left us thoroughly fatigued. At parting, the Mandarins presented us, on the part of the Governor, with a quantity of rice, fruit, sugar, fowls, poultry, and a hog. The last is a description of present peculiarly de- manded by the customs of the countiy, and never omitted on an occasion of. any import- ance. Mr. Finlayson, who understood the Por- tuguese language, acted upon this occasion as interpreter, and his words were rendered into Cochin Chinese by a very intelligent native Christian, whose name was Antonio, and who, during our stay at Saigun, proved very useful to us. Monsieur Diard, the only French gentleman at present in the place, dined with us in the evening. This gentleman is a naturalist and physician, and travels under the latter nam& He has been at Saigun only three months, hav» ing come from Hu^. He had before visited Bengal, Sumatra, and Java, and is well known for his active pursuits in the department of natural history. Aug: 30. — Immediately after breakfast this AND COCHIN CHINA. 323 morning, we bad a visit from a Mandarin of the military order, called Ong-kwan-beng. This person, a man of about fifty, of very respec^ble appearance, with a flowing white beard reaching nearly to his girdle, was of higher rank than our visitors of yesterday. His object was to urge the request already made for the Governor-ge- neral's letter to the King. Finding this could not be evaded, we yielded wit^ as good grace as possible, after receiving a pledge that we should not be detained beyond three days, and that the letter should not go out of our own hands. The Mandarin was quite satisfied with this ; and, in concluding the conversation, assured us that the Governor's request was strictly conformable to the laws and usages of the country, and hoped we should put no unfavourable construction upon his conduct. While Ong-kwan-beng was with us, the two Mandarins who had visited us yesterday made their appearance. They bowed to him respect- fully, but not servilely, as they came in, and seated themselves on the same bench with, but behind him. During the conversation, both to- day and yesterday, I was a little surprised to find that instead of avoiding to explain them- selves through our interpreters, as was always the case in Siam, the Chiefs frequently volun- teered this, and seemed indeed to give them a preference to their own. Y 2 324 EMBASSY TO SIAM A message came to us in the coune of the day from the Governor, to say that we were at liberty to go abroad, and visit an^ pert of the dty we might think proper, and that either de- phaiits, horses, or boats, would be supplied to us as we might prefer. The letter of the Governor-general arrived to- day about half-past ten o^clock ; the boat sent to the ship having proceeded with such despatch as to have t^en in all no more than twenty-two hours in going and coming. Notice of this was, without delay, sent to the Mandarins charged with our business, and the three persons, who had visited us before, presented themsdves in less than half-an-hour. We had by this time found that our Cochin Chinese friends were extremely ceremonious, and partial to display and parade in little matters to the extent of ostentation. This humour was com- plied with, in exhibiting the letter of the Gover- nor-general. As soon as it was opened, the Man- darins proceeded to inspect it minutely, examin- ing by turns the writing, the illuminated paper, and above all the seal of the Govemor-generaL This being done, we proceeded jointly, through the medium of a Portuguese translation which accompanied it, to render it sentence by sentence into Cochin Chinese. After this process had gone on a little time, the deputation considered it un- satisfactory, and begged that a written transla- AND COCHIN CHINA. 325 tion in the Chinese character might be effected. This was done accordingly. They now examined my credentials, and begged a Chinese translation of those also, and they farther required English and Portuguese copies of all the documents. This too was acceded to. On perusing the translation in the Chinese character, the Mandarins expressed entire satisfaction at the general purport of the letter ; but advanced many objections to particular expressions, which they declared it was impossi- ble to submit to his Majesty the King of Cochin China; the use of them, they said, however re- spectfully meant, being against the laws of the countay. For example, towards the conclusion of the letter of the Governor-general, " His Excel- lency sends certain presents in token of his pro- found respect and esteem for His Majesty the Emperor of Cochin China." This was not to be endured, because, as the matter was explained to us, profound respect and esteem must be con- sidered as matters of course from any one that addressed His Majesty of Cochin China. At the suggestion of the Mandarins, the passage was rendered as follows : " I send your Majesty cer- tain presents, because you are a great King." Strong objection was made to the expression in which His Excellency had disclaimed any wish for lands or fortresses ; because it was not to be imagined for a moment that any one could desire lands or fortresses belonging to the King 326 EMBASSY TO SIAM of Cochin China, and the diiclaiiiiing the to obtain commercial factories alone was imerted. In the letter of the Governor-general, His Mqestj was styled Emperor of Anam, a common term for Tonquin and Cochin China; and as it was well known that he had conquered a great part of Kamboja, and, as was asserted of Lao, Sove- reign of these countries, also was added to bis titles. This was much objected to, and the Mandarins informed me that it was no hcHioiir to the King of Cochin China to be styled ''a king of slaves,"' for as such, it seems, the inhabit- ants of the conquered provinces are deemed br the governing race, that is, by the Anam naticffi, which includes both Cochin Chinese and Tonqui- nese. After th^ conference was over, I asked the Christian interpreter, in consequence of hearing this last observation, what opinion the Cochin Chinese entertained of the people of Eamboja. He had visited Bengal, and said without hesita- tion, '' pretty much the same opinion that the English entertain of the black inhabitants of Hindoostan ! !" The whole of this tedious con- ference lasted eight hours. The luckless inter- preter, Antonio, was so overcome with the intri- cacy, not to say the danger of his part of the task, and the difficulty of pleasing every body, that he declared, that to have done it justice, would have required the head of an elephant ! AND COCHIN CHINA, 327 Sept 1. — Not satisfied with the tedious details of yesterday, and the pains taken to satisfy his Majesty's, the King of Cochin China's, feelings in the Chinese translation, one of the Manda- rins returned this morning to inform us, that, on mature consideration, it was decided that there were still two improper words in the Chinese translation. These were accordingly rectified. He then informed us, that duplicate copies of the Gk)vemor-general's letter in English, in Por- tuguese, and in Chinese ; of my credentials in the same languages, and duplicates of my letter to the Governor of Saigun in English and French, with a Chinese translation, also in duplicate, were far- ther wanted. The ^object of these voluminous documents was, that one copy * of them might be sent to Court, and another kept at Saigun. They Vere so particular, in regard to these* pa- pers, that each required my personal seal and sig- nature. All this was completed by twelve o'clock, at which hour we set ofi^ to pay a visit to the town of Saigun, accompanied by Monsieur Diard. The town properly called Saigun, is about three miles distant from the residence of the Gk)vemor of the province. It is situated upon a small river, navigable for good- sized boats all the way to Kamboja, with which it is the principal medium of communication. Straggling houses nearly join \y y 328 EMBASSY TO 8IAM the fort and residence of the Gtovemor with Saigun. The banks of the stream are wdl cul- tivated on both sides, and extenrive plantations of areca palm form the principal object of cul- ture. At the town of Saigun the river fbnns many branches and canals. Over these are bad bridges, consisting of one or two planks. The river, however, is usually ferried over in boats. The regulation of these ferries is a little angular. Tiie women alone pay, and all the men, under pretext of being the King's servants, that is» public officers, pass freight-free. A similar r^n- lation exists in the ISf enam. The principal bazar is a wide and spacious street The numerous shops were not ricli, but sufficiently neat. The principal articles exposed for sale were Chinese earthenware, manufactured silks, chiefly of Ton- quin, and of the place itself, and commonly made up into dresses, paper, and great quantities of amazingly coarse tea from the northern pro- vinces, which had more the appearance of broken tobacco-leaves than real tea. There was abun* dance of poultry, including the common fowl, ducks, and geese, which last are not reared in Siam, and rarely in any Malay country, except where Europeans reside. Here were also plenty of hogs, of an excellent breed. The want of in- tercourse, direct or indirect, with European na- tions, was sufficiently evinced by the general absence of European manufactures. A few com- AND COCHIN CHINA. 329 moil glass-bottles, and some broad cloth, were all that was to be seen. Women alone attended in the shops. The sex was to be seen going broad every where, with- out any reserve. Judging from the specimen we saw to-day, the Cochin Chinese women appear to be well and becomingly attired. Many of them were much fairer in complexion than we could have expected, and some were handsome, making due allowance for the peculiarity of their features, or what, at least, is considered such, according to our notions of beauty. The appearance of Saigun is respectable for an Indian town, A large proportion of the houses are covered with tiles instead of thatch. The houses ^ of the Chinese are all good, and such as we visited during the day, spacious, comfortable, and, after their fashion, weU furnished. Our appearance excited a good deal of curi- osity, unaccompanied however by the slightest appearance of rudeness. The reception we met with from the Chinese merchants was most ho^i- table and flattering. Three of the principal fa- milies, without giving us any previous notice, presented themselves at the doors of their re- spective houses, and invited us separately to come in. In each house we found a handsome en- tertainment ready prepared for us, served up with much neatness and propriety. Not satisfied with providing for ourselves, a board was also S30 EMBASSY TO 8IAM spread for all who accompanied U8» including our Indian servants and Cochin Chinese eaoort. The persons whose hospitality and urbanity we now experienced, were all descendants of Chinese loi^ settled in the country, and in point both of man- ners and intelligence were of a very superior order. The Chinese of Saigun amount in all to between three and four thousand in number. They have several temples, and that which be- longs to the Chinese of Canton is the hand- somest building of the sort that I have any where seen. We returned about five o'clock in the evening, well satisfied with our visit. Sept. 2. — Every thing was arranged lust night for our audience, and, at the desire of the Man- darins, a Chinese Ust of the presents, vmtten. according to the custom of the country upon a scrap of pink-coloured paper, was transmitted. Little previous arrangement was made for our reception, or for the ceremonies we were to per- form on our introduction; indeed, no stress ap- peared to be laid upon matters of this last description. Every thing being ready, about half-past seven o'clock I made a demand for the palanquins at. elephants that were to convey us. There were none ready, and I was given to understand indirectly, that it was expected we should go on foot. I gave those that commu- nicated with us to understand, that we would not move a step without a suitable conveyance, AND COCHIN CHINA. 331 and in less than ten minutes five elephants were produced to accommodate us. This was evi- dently an attempt of some of the lower Man* darins to impose upon us, and I make no question was wholly unknown to the Governor. About eight o'clock we quitted our house for the palace, accompanied by thirteen of our attendants, but leaving the guard of sepoys behind us. Mr. Fin- layson carried the letter of the Gk>vemor-generaL A number of spearmen on foot, and some horsemen mounted on small spirited ponies, si- milar to those of the Indian islands, accompanied the procession. In about twenty minutes we reached the fort, to which the canal, on the banks of which our house was situated, leads by a straight course, having a good road on each side of it. A great number of spearmen were drawn out to receive us along every avenue of the fort through which we passed, and especially in front of the hall of audience. We did not dis- mount from our elephants until we oime within a hundred yards of the latter. This building was quite open in front, very long but narrow, and entirely constructed of wood, no where either varnished or painted. It was altogether a poor place; and the houses of the Chinese, which we visited yesterday at Saigun, were real palaces compared to it. It is the custom of the Co- chin Chinese to sit either upon broad tables, elevated about a foot and a half from the ground. 332 EMBASSY TO 81 AM or upon platforms raised about eight or i inches from it ; those of highest rank, in eit case, sitting in front, and those of inferior n behind. These benches* or platformsy are alw covered with handsome mats. In the mid of the hall was one of the platforms in qi tion, somewhat higher than usual, on whidi Governor was seen sitting. We advanced front and made him a bow, which was : returned. Chairs were pointed out to us to Governor's right-hand, of which we took f session. On his left was seated by himself second in authority, a venerable and fine-loi ing old man about seventy. The rest of 1 Governor's Court were seated on the same si with UK, but behind us, upon another platfoi The first in place among these was Ong-kwi beng, the military Mandarin who had transad business with us. The old Governor is by ! : pute an eunuch, but without having been tc so, we probably should not have discovered He was, indeed, totally destitute of beard ; I the beards of the Cochin Chinese in general, though they are fond of wearing them, are usuaj very scanty. His voice also was feeble and : minine, but not to so remarkable a degree to excite suspicion. This individual, who acted a distinguish part in the late wars and revolution of Cocl China, was, at the period of oiu* visit, fiA AND COCHIN CHINA. flS3 eight years of age. His countenance w^as ani- mated and intelligent, his person rather short and slender, but he appeared active and subject to no bodily iufh-mity but the tooth-ache, which had deprived him of a great part of his teeth. The other Mandarins were richly dressed in figured silk. The Governor, on the contrary, seemed to be careless and indifferent about his dress, which consisted of a plain black silk gown and a crape turban of the same colour. He began his conversation with us, by asking how long we had been on our ;voyage; after getting a reply to which, he proceeded at once to the main subject, and said that the English were welcome to trade in Cochin China, com- plying with the laws of the country; that the imports were not heavy, and that they were the same to all nations. We answered, that this was exactly what the Governor-general of India desired, and no more. The Gk)vemor add- ed, that if the Cochin Chinese, for the pur- poses of trade, visited the British dominions, they must submit to our laws ; and if we came to Cochin China, we must do the same thing. It was replied, that friendship and good un- derstanding could not exist among nations on any other terms. The Governor then observed, that he would forward a particular account of our Mission to the capital, and recommend us to the Mandarin of Elephants, the chief of the 334 EMBASSY TO SIAlff foreign department. He now observed, dut kings only wrote to kings, and that his Ma^ jesty the King of England should have written to the King of Cochin China, and that the Go- vernor-general should have addressed himself to the Mandarin of Elephants. We exfdained, as we had done on similar occasions before, that the King of - England was at too great a dis- tance to be able conveniently to maintain a di- rect correspondence with the princes of the East, which, therefore, was principally conducted by the Gk>venior-general of India. He answered, that this practice was totally contrary to the customs of Cochin China, but that the infor- mality, on the commencement of a friendly in- tercourse, should prove no obstruction to the Embassy. We now offered to present his Ex- cellency with a few presents from the Grover- nor-general of India, and the Chinese list of them was read by a secretary. His Excellency, after the list was read, said that he felt obliged to the Governor-general of India for his polite- ness in sending presents to him ; but that the negociation being in a state of abeyance, he could not now with propriety accept of them ; but as he hoped many English vessels would visit Saigun hereafter, there would be time enough for presents. We made no objection whatever to this, which struck us at the time A^^D COCHIN CHINA. 335 as forming so remarkable a contrast with the rapa- city of the Siamese officers on similar occasions. We were now asked when we wished to leave Saigun. The time was mentioned. The Gk>ver- nor answered that every thing would be in readi- ness for our accommodation. We fully ex- pected that the Governor-general's letter would have been opened, if only out of curiosity ; but the Chief simply looked at it, without even taking it from its silk envelope, and politely returned it immediately, requesting, that as we were about to amuse ourselves, it might be sent back to our residence ; and he ordered, as a mark of respect, three caparisoned elephants to accompany it. In the course of conversation^ the Governor asked my companions' age, and my own. Our Indian servants and their dresses excited his notice, as they did that of every body else during our visit. The Cochin Chi- nese are total strangers to the inhabitants of Hindustan, of whom not an individual is found residing at Saigun. Their persons, features, tnanners, and costume, therefore, excited a far greater degree of curiosity than any thing re- specting ourselves. After tea was served to us, we were invited to be present at an elephant and tiger fight ; and for this purpose mounted our elephants, and repaired to the glacis of the fort, where the f r 336 EMBASSY TO 6IAM ♦' combat was to take place. The Governor wei out at another gate, and arrived at the plai i before us in his palanquin. When the hi [ broke up, a herald or crier announced tl \ event. With the exception of this oeremon great propriety and decorum were observi throughout the audience. The exhibition mai by the herald, however, was truly barbaroi He threw himself backward, projecting his a domen, and putting his hands to his sides, ai in this absurd attitude uttered several loud ai long yelLs. The tiger had been exhibited front of the hall, and was driven to the sp on a hurdle. A great concourse of people h assembled to witness the exhibition. The tig was secured to a stake by a rope tied roui his loins, about thirty yards long. The mou of the unfortunate animal was sewn up, and 1 nails pulled out. He was of large size, and e tremely active. No less than forty-six elephan* all males of great size, were seen drawn o in line. One at a time was brought to attai the tiger. The first elephant advanced, to i apj>earance with a great show of courage, and i thought from his determined look that he wou certainly have dispatched his antagonist in an i stant. At the first effort he raised the tiger up his tusks to a considerable height, and threw hi to the distance of at least twenty feet. Notwit standing this, the tiger rallied, and sprang iip< AND COCHIN CHINA. 337 the elephant's trunk and head up to the very keeper, who was upon his neck. The elephant took alarm, wheeled about and ran off, pursued by the tiger as far as the rope would allow him. The fugitive, although not hurt, roared most piteously, and no effort could bring him back to the charge. A little after this, we saw a man brought up to the Governor, bound with cords, and dragged into his presence by two officers. This was the conductor of the recreant elephant. A hundred strokes of the bamboo were ordered to be inflicted upon him on the spot. For this purpose he was thrown on his face upon the ground, and secured by one man sitting astride upon his neck and shoulders, and by another sit- ting upon his feet, a succession of executioners inflicting the punishment. When it was over, two men carried off the sufferer by the head and heels, apparently quite insensible. While this outrage was perpetrating, the Governor coolly viewed- the combat of the tiger and elephant, as if nothing else particular had been going forward. Ten or twelve elephants were brought up in suc- cession to attack the tiger, which was killed at last merely by the astonishing falls he received when tossed off the tusks of the elephants. The prodigious strength of these animals was far be- yond any thing which I could have supposed. Some of them tossed the tiger to a distance of at least thirty feet, after he was nearly lifeless, VOL. I. Z 338 EMBASSY TO SIAM and could offer no resistance. ViTe ocnild not re- flect without horror, that these veiy individuil animals were the same that have for years exe- cuted the sentence of the law upon the many malefactors condemned to death. Upon then occasions a single toss, such as I have descaibedt is always, I am told, sufficient to destrqjr lifc^ After the tiger-fight we had a noock battle, the intention of which was to represent ele- phants charging an intrenchment. A sort of ckevaux de frise was erected to the extent (tf forty or fifty yards, made of very frail materials^ Upon this was placed a quantity of dry grasn^ whilst a show was made of defendin^f it, by a number of spearmen placed behind. As socm as the grass was set on fire, a number of squibs and crackers were let off; flags were waved in great numbers; drums beat, and a single piece of artillery began to play. The elephants w»e now encouraged to charge ; but they displayed their usual timidity, and it was not until the fire was nearly extinguished, and the materials of the ckevaux de Jri^e almost consumed, that a few of the boldest could be forced to pass through. After these amusements were over, the Go- vernor begged us to come near and converse with him. He wished to know the precise time we wanted to depart, and hearing that we had fixed on to-morrow morning, was extremely AND COCHIN CHINA. 339 anxious that we should put off our journey for a couple of days^ that we might see more of the town, and above all, that he might exhibit to us a dramatic entertainment. We urged the precarious state of the monsoon, and our great anxiety to secure our passage to Hu^. Seeing that we were intent on proceeding on our voy- age without delay, he said that every thing should be ready for us at as early an hour as we . might think proper to name. The oi^ders respecting our departure were accordingly given on the spot, and we had thus an opportunity of seeing how such matters are conducted in Codhin China. The Grovemor delivered his com- mands personally, in a high tone of official au- thority, and twelve or fourteen inferior Man- darins received them standing before him. As soon as he had done speaking they made the accustomed obeisance, which consisted in pros- trating themselves four successive times upon the ground, their faces being prevented from touch« ing the earth only by their joined hands, which were placed before them. His Excellency asked what provisions we required for ourselves and the ship's crew, and requested us to specify them, that our wants might be fully supplied. We answered, that we stood in need of nothing, but made suitable acknowledgments for this liberal offer. Having made our bow we took leave, after thanking him for the polite and handsome re- z 2 340 EMBASSY TO STASff ception he liad given us, and we returned to our residence. In our progress to the Gover- nor's palace and hack, a great crowd of the pc^ pulace followed us. Their conduct was liv^ and playful, but by no means disrespectfal The soldiers who accompanied us never inter, fered with them, as long as they took care nol to mix with the procession ; but whenever the] did, the rattan was liberally applied, and the of fenders retreated, generally with a hearty lauj^ We had scarcely reached home, when one oi the principal JSIandarins came with the compli- ments of the Governor, and a present of pro- visions. These consisted of a live buffido^ i hog, a quantity of poultry, rice, and fruit. This Mandarin informed us, that the GovemoT, thougli he could not publicly accept of any present, would be happy to accept privately of the pistols and telescope which we had offered. 1 returned my respects to say, that I should be happy to send them. They were not howevei taken ; the Governor, in lieu of them, request ing wc would send him some fine gunpowder, on our return to the ship, which was done A little time after this, arrived, with great cere- mony, a hog roasted whole, with a large quan- tity of dressed rice, another present from the Governor. This, according to the customs of the country, is considered a token of proffisred ViPpHfthip AND COCHIN CHII^A. 341 In the afternoon we took an early dinner with M. Diard, and viewed his collection of animals. From this gentleman we received many marks of civility and attention, during our short residence at Saigun. In the evening we went through the markets and town of Pin- geh, for this is the proper name of the Go- vernor's residence. The streets for an Indian town are wide and regular, and the bazars well supplied with every thing neceissary to the com- fort of the people according to their notions. We visited a pretty, gaudy, little Cochin Chi- nese temple, dedicated to the Chinese form of y , worship. We expected to have found many tem- ples of Buddha, in a place so near to those coun- tries where his religion is universal, but hitherto we had met none. As we passed along one of the streets in this excursion, our curiosity was ex- cited by observing two persons in violent alterca- tion. They were sitting upon the ground, and one had a hold of the waistband of the other from behind. This last was a woman, who charged her prisoner, an eunuch, as we were in- formed, with defrauding her of some property. This was according to a custom of the country. When one person charges another with an of- fence, he has only to lay hold of him or her by the waistband, and the law expects that the accused shall forthwith submit to this species of arrest without offering any resistance. S48 EMBASSY TO SIAM Sept S. — At six this morning, the hour ap- pointed for our departure, every thing was reedy for our accommodation, with a punctuality any thing but Oriental, and we left Saigim with the same number of boats and attendants with which we had come to it. The river of Saigun, whidi is called by the natives the Saong, does not appear to me to be quite so broad as the Me* nam, but it is broad enough for all useful pur- poses, and so deep and free from dangers ev^ where, that the largest ships may go with per- fect security up to the city, and much farther if it were necessary. Its banks, for twenty-five miles below the city, are one extensive sheet of rice cultivation, but from thence to the sea the water is salt, and unfit for irrigation or cul- ture, and the country is extremely low» and covered by a forest of undersized trees, fit for no purpose but fire-wood. At eight o'clock we came to the mouth of the river which leads to Dong-nai, a considerable town about two days' journey from Saigun, which gives name to the whole province. The river of Dong-nai ^ia na- vigable for vessels of considerable burden. About fifteen miles before coming to Kandyu, there is the mouth of another considerable river». to the same side which leads to a place called Bariya, towards the hills which are visible to ^he east. Here there are said to be manufac- AND COCHIN CHINA. 343 four and five o'clock^ the whole voyage having taken up little more than ten hours, and hav- ing proved a very agreeable one. Neither in ascending nor descending the river did we ob- serve any defences whatever. The smallest ves- sel of war might, therefore, go up to the dty without a pilot, and destroy it without risk or opposition. The city of Saigun is, as I think I have al- ready mentioned, about fifty miles from the sea. The place consists of two distinct towns, at the distance of three miles from each other. Pingeh, the seat of the Governor and of the citadel, lies on the western bank of the great river, and Sai- gun, properly so called, is situated upon a small river, which communicates directly with Pin- geh. Saigun is the principal seat of commerce, and the residence of the Chinese and other mer- chants, though the river on which it lies is na- vigable only for small craft, and the larger junks all lie before Pingeh. This seems to be a mat- ter of very little inconvenience, where the navi- gation is always so sure and easy for cargo-boats. These two towns are nearly about the same size, but I could not gain any specific information respecting the amount of their population. Du- ring the period we were at Saigun, the whole of the junks for the northward and eastward were absent, having sailed on their respective voy- ages, and there remained only six junks for 344 EMBASSY TO SlAM the Straits of Malacca and Siam. As we saw Bang-kok, it certainly presented a far busier scene of commerce than Saigun, and its actual commerce is indeed much superior. By the ac- counts we obtained at the latter place, the actual foreign commerce of the place amounts to no more than between 7 and 8000 tons. The citadel of Saigun, or rather of Pingeh, is, in form, a parallelogram, distant from half a mile to three-quarters of a mile from the western bank of the river, the principal part of the town intervening. I conjecture, from appearance, that the longest side of the square may be about three- quarters of a mile in length. The original plan ap- pears to have been European, but left incomplete. It has a regular glacis, an esplanade, a dry ditch of considerable breadth, and regular ramparts and bastions. AVith the exception of the four prin- cipal gateways, the whole of the fortress is con- structed of earth, now covered every where with a green sward. There are no guns mounted any where, though there be several hundred ly- ing in the ar.Nenal. The gates consist of four large and as many small ones. The large gate^ ways are built of stone and lime, and are very substantially constructed, although a Chinese- tower, with a double-canopied roof gives them a grotesque and unmilitary appearance. The approach to them is by a zig-zag in the glacis, and they are connected with the counterscarp by a mound, without any drawbridge. The two AND COCHIN CHINA. 345 angles of the fort which came within our view were protected by horn-works. The fortress, as it now stands, is not capable of regular de- fence. One angle of it approaches so near to the river, that a ship of war might breach it • in a few hours. The interior is neatly laid out and clean, and presents an appearance of European order and arrangement. The prin- cipal buildings consist of the officers' quarters, barracks, arsenals, and the residence of the Go- vernor. There is a good parade, and the place is not incumbered, as usually happens in Indian fortifications, with a motley assemblage of huts, sheds, and petty buildings. The late King made this place the seat of his Government during the rebellion, but on recovering the northern provinces he removed to the old capital. Saigun proved to us a far more agreeable re- sidence than Bang-kok, and I have no doubt that the character of the people, and the nature of the country itself, would always render it so . to any European visitor. The average of the thermometer at noon, during our six days' stay, was 81®. Venomous and troublesome insects, the plague of all hot and low countries, are fewer at Saigun than it is easy to imagine in such a situation. We saw few ants or flies while we were there, and mosquitoes were so little troublesome that we might have slept with little inconvenience without gauze curtains. This could not be ascribed to the season, for Stti EMBASSY TO SIAM it was the very height of the ndns, when insects are always most abundant; nor to our aitiiatk», for we were upon the very banks of a canal which was always diy at low-water. The mar- kets afford the necessaries and even comforts of life in great plenty and cheapness. For hogs and for poultry, the latter consisting of geese, ducks, and common fowls, the soil and climate appear to be peculiarly favourable. A hog weighing 200lb. may be had foir seven Spanish dollars, which is less than twopence a pound; ducks and common fowls are found in greater perfection here than in any other part of India, being remarkable both for si2e and flavour. The first, which are in great demand among the Cochin Chinese themselves, may be had eight for a Spanish dollar; and of fowls, which are hardly ever eaten by the natives, twenty-four or twenty-five may be had for the same mo- ney. The latter are all of the game breed. The Cochin Chinese are great cock-fighters; his Excellency, the present Governor, fights cocks regularly twice a month, and invites the chiefs to be present. Goats are in considerable num- bers, and the sheep, an animal which seldom thrives in the damp climates near the Equator, thrives tolerably at Saigun. The race is a small hardy breed, similar to that of Liower BengaL They are much more cheap and abundant, how« ever, I am given to understand, at Kang-kao AND COCHIN CHINA. S47 the ox are both of them very good and very cheap, and may be had in any quantity. The variety and the excellence of the fish can scarcely be equalled. Besides river-fish, great quantities of sea-fish are brought up fresh for the market of Saigun ; the largest kind being conveyed by dragging them after the boats, and the Smaller in wells in their bottoms. During our short stay, we were daily supplied from the ordinary markets, with the three best fish which the Indian seas afford, the cockup, the pomfret, and the mango fish, all exquisite in their kind. There are however, besides the articles now enume- rated, others exhibited for sale in the market of Saigun, not so well suited to the European taste, such as the flesh of dogs and alligators. These, indeed, are in little esteem, and not eaten by persons of any consideration. The first day we arrived, we saw two whole aUigators car- ried upon men's shoulders to the market, and afterwards frequently saw the flesh of this ani- mal cut up in large junks, and exposed for sale in the stalls and booths. The price of rice, when we were at Saigun, was a dollar a picul. This was considered extravagantly high. For fruit, the season of our visit was the most unfavourable in all tropical countries to the north of the Equator. We found, however, abundance of oranges, and plenty of ordinary fruits, such as pumplenoses, bananas, and custard-^tpples. In their proper seasons, I am told, that the mango, 348 EMBASSY TO BIAM the lichi, and orange, are in great perfecticHd ; but upon the whole, Saigun, for variety of fhuts, i far inferior to Bang-kok. Neither the mangosti] nor the durian, so abundant in the Malay coun tries to the south of Saigun, and in Siam to th north of it, are found here. Whether this ha arisen from carelessness, or real unsuitableness c soil and climate, we could not learn ; but, in a probability, to the former.* Sept. 4. — Early this morning, Antonio, tfa Portuguese interpreter, who had come down wit us from Saigun, came on board, bringing us small present of fruit from the Chief of Kandyi] He received a sum of money and a piece of dot] for his services. The amount of the donatior although far from extravagant, surprised him ex ceedingly ; for persons in his situation are miser ably rewarded in Cochin China. He begged foi a certificate of his skill and good conduct, whid he might present to English merchants frequent ing the place ; for on the visits of strangers, h< said, his fortune depended. This favour was rea dily granted. He took this opportunity of in forming us, that his pursuit was a very diflBcuI and critical one, and that even since our arriva he had been in constant terror of the bamboo which he complimented us by saying he hac escaped through our discretion. When the tw< American ships visited Saigun about a year be * At Singapore we afterwards received occasional supplier from Saigun of the largest and finest oranges I ever saw. AND COCHIN CHINA. 349 fore, he told us he liad received fifty strokes for an error in judgment respecting the delivery of a certain supply of rice to one of the ships in question. At eight o'clock in the morning we set sail, and at ten passed Cape St James with a strong and favourable breeze. When about two and a half miles to the east of it, and pursuing the course laid down in the common nautical direc- tions, we came suddenly upon the edge of a sand- bank and struck soundings in two and a half fa- thoms water, nearly the ship's draft. We imme- diately hauled up, and, steering a westerly Course. were soon out of danger. This shoal is not laid down eitlier in the charts of M. Dayot or Cap- tain Ross. At night we had heavy squalls and much rain, and were, notwithstanding, compdled to pass through the channel between Cow Island and the De Brito Shoal. This last has its name from a Portuguese navigator, who suffered ship- wreck upon it. 350 EMBASSY TO SI AM CHAFfER IX. Voyage along the Coast of Cochin China. — Aoeoimt of Harboure. — AniFal in Touran Harbour. — Visit fiom the d Mandarin of the place. — Description of the Town €£ Toon — The Mission receives a Letter and Presents finom the C vernor of Foi-fo. — Visits made to the Villages in the iiei| bourhood of Tonran. — Invitation to the Court. -* Voyage Hue, the Cochin Chinese Capital, and arrival there. 517;/. 5. ~ To-day, at noon, we were in latitud 1 1*" 26', after passing Cape Pandaran, considerc the Cape of Good Hope of Cochin Chinese nav gation, on account of the difficulty of weatherin it, and the heavy sea which rolls in upon i owing to its exposed situation, the coast immi diately changing its direction after passing i and trending suddenly to the north. All the wa from Cape St. James, there was nothing but big coast, and many chains of mountains running i a north-east and south-west direction. The shore in many situations, consist of sand-hills — th mountains are covered with a scanty forest, an the whole aspect of the coast is that of grei AND COCHIN CHINA. 351 sterility. Thus far the south-west monsoon blew strong and steady, and we sailed, with little ex- ception, between eight and nine knots an hour, during the last twenty-four. Sept. 6. — Yesterday afternoon we lost the mon- soon, were becalmed at night— had a regular land- wind, and to-day a sea-breeze. The coast was here extremely bold, and the country as far as we could see very mountainous; the peaks of some hills appearing to be not short of three thousand feet high. The coast of Cochin China, after passing Cape Fandaran, becomes a great deal more broken and indented, — has small islands scattered along it, and abounds with ports and harbours, perhaps beyond any other country in the world. To-day, at noon, we were in latitude 12** 6^, having the bay of Ya-trang within a few miles of us. This, which is protected by the large island Tre, forms a good harbour. A river which falls into it, and is navigable for vessels drawing seven and eight feet water, conducts to the town of Ya-trang, which gives name to the bay. At this place the late King caused a fortification to be constructed, after the Euro- pean manner, under the direction of M. Olivier, a French engineer. The place was besieged in the years 1794 and 1795, by the rebel brothers, the Tysuns, and relieved by the King's fleet, after a siege of six months. It is well situated, and commands the province of Ya-trarig and the 352 EMBASSY TO SIAM neighbouring ones. Tliis place is the entrepdt of the commerce of all this part of the country, and the seat of considerable manufactories of silk. It is four days' long journeys by land from Saigun, and five from the capital. Sept 7. — Yesterday evening we passed the har- bour of Kon-koe, represented by M. Dayot as a very fine one; but at which a few fishermen only reside. Early this morning, we were off Cape Varela, the most remarkable point of Cochin Chinese navigation. The mountain forming the Cape, seems to be between fifteen hundred and two thousand feet high. On one of the peaks is a remarkable rock, representing the appearr anee of a huge broken and falling column; which is seen from fifteen to eighteen leagues distant, either from the north or south. This mountain has the reputation of containing yeins of silver, and is known to contain, at about half its height, a hot-spring of remarkably high temperature. Immediately after passing Cape Varela, the land recedes, and the coast is much less elevated. This recess forms the great bay of Fu-yin. In this bay is situated the finest port in all Cochin China, and which consists of three distinct harbours, all represented as excellent. The province of Fu-yin which gives name to the bay and port, is the finest in Cochin China. In entering the harbour, according to M. Dayot, thq prospect is highly pleasing. The land is culti- AND COCHIN CHINA. 353 vated from the sea-side all the way to the tops of the hills, and the country every where inter- spersed with hoases and cottages, giving to the whole the appearance of one extensive garden. From the rugged mountains with which the coast is bound, so rich a country could sdarcely be looked for. Rice is the great object -of cul- ture in the province of Fu-yin, as, indeed, in every tropical country of the East distinguished for fertility. The town of Fu-yin is about four short days' journey by land from Hue. Our Chinese interpreter, who had travelled from Sai- gun to the capital, stated that the road from Fu- yin as far as Hu^ was excellent ; but that that from Fu-yin to Saigun was mountainous and difficult. We had now regular land and sea-breezes. Our latitude at noon was IS"*. In the morning early, we could count, coasting close to the shore, thirteen small junks, of from five to seven hun- dred piculs burthen, returning, as we were in- formed, from the Capital to Saigun, after dis- charging their cargoes of rice, and other articles of revenue and contribution. Sept 8. — In the course of the night, we pass- ed the harbour of Kwinnyon (Quin-hone,) about the latitude 13° 41'. This place is accessible only to vessels drawing no more than three or three and a-half fathoms water. Its principal pro- tection is formed by a narrow tongue of land, VOL. I. 2 a 354 EMBASSY TO BIAM about four miles in extent, which is fortil Within fifteen miles of the port is a city of same name, before the late rebellion a plaoi great trade. A river nearly oomiects it i the port, and a number of other small ri^ fall into the latter, which give great fadli to the communication betweofi the harbour the country. Lying nearly in the centre of kingdom, Kwin-nyon is looked upon as of m importance by tlie Cochin Chinese, but does appear at present to be a place of any co derable trade. The vicinity is a country of tensive rice culture. M. Dayot itiforms us, 1 it was here, in the year 179S, that the late K obtained a signal and decisive victory over rebel brothers, capturing six ships of war, nin large galleys, and upwards of a hundred of ferior size, and three hundred and thirty-se^ pieces of artillery, of which forty-six were gi brass cannon. Kwin-nyon is three long di journey by land from the Capital. The oc still preserved the same appearance of low fa after passing Varella Point, but appeared ] rude and rugged than that to the south. C latitude at noon was 14^ SO', nearly in the rallel of Tang-kwan, in the river of which 1 late King, in 1793, obtained another and fi naval victory over the rebel brothers, capturi sixty galleys. Land and sea-breezes contini regularly. AND COCHIN CHINA. 855 Sept. 10. — We had nothing on thci 8th and 9th but calms and light airs. We were to-day, at 12 o'clock, in the latitude of 15^ 14', in the channel between the main and Pulo Ccmton, called Callao Rai by the Cochin Chinese. This island appears to be about four miles in length, and consists of a tract of low land, with three distinct hills running through its length. It is, although apparently not rich, well cultivated, and well peopled. The appearance of the msun-land' is here much changed. There is an extensive tract of low land, interspersed with rising grounds between the sea and the high-land, and this last appears to be cultivated and inhabited. Nearer the shore there are extensive downs, with only a tuft of trees here and there. We counted off the coast, this morning, about ninety ^hing- boats, all of good size, and under sail. This seemed to show that we were in the vicinity of a populous country. Sept. 12. — Calms and light winds still continued to prevail. Last evening we passed through the cluster of islands called Cham Calao, which lie within a few miles of the point which forms the northern entrance of Touran harbour. This group consists of eight islands, of which one only is of considerable size, probably four miles in length. Their aspect is bold and barren, covered with a low wood, and exhibiting, both on the shore and throughout their surfaces, the huge 2 A 2 356 EMBASSY TO SIAM bare masses of rock. All these islands are un- cultivated, but in a bay lying on the south-west side of the great island, there is a small village of fishermen. A strong current running through the channel, between the Cjiam Islands and the main, and which was adverse to us, com- pelled us early at night to come to an an- clior. At dayliglit this morning we weighed, and stood on our course. We coiuited forty fisliing-boats whicli had come out of the liver of Fai-fo as we ran close along the coast. These were of a different construction and equipment from the neater vessels which we had seen near Saigun. The latter had two masts, which raked much aft, and lug-sails ; the former had three masts, with a small sail on eacli, and a fourth between tlie main and foremast. Sept 15. — Ligiit airs and calms, and an ad- verse current running at the rate of three miles an hour, baffled all our efforts to gain the en- trance of the iiarbour of Touran until yesterday afternoon, when a favourable sea-breeze of a few hours' continuance enabled us to accomplish our object. In the evening we anchored off the great cape which forms the southern entrance of the harbour. This moaning being calm, a party land- ed to examine the coast, which was within a mile and a half of us. The ridge of mountains of which it is composed is not less than 1400 feet high, and its acclivity very steep. The AND COCHIN CHINA. 857 shore itself is so bold, and the swell of the sea was so considerable, although a calm, that land- ing was a matter of some difficulty and even peril. No rock was to be seen but granite of a grey colour and small grained, exhibiting fre- quent embedded masses of mica and quartz. The forest which covers the mountains is very stunted, and fit for no purpose but fire-wood. A number of wood-cutters were dose at hand, employed in felling it for this purpose, and se- veral boats were loading with it on the coast. In a very short search we rfbtained a number of interesting and beautiful plants, differing entirely from what our travels had yet afforded us, and indicating plainly that we had arrived in a new vegetable zone. The sea-breeze sprung up about ten o'clock in the morning, and we got, with great facility, into the harbour, where we an- chored between twelve and one o'clock. The harbour of Touran is spacious, secure, and easily defended. It is completely land-locked. Two- thirds of the circumference of the bay is form- ed by an amphitheatre of mountains, the feet of which are washed by the sea, and some of the peaks appear to be not less than 2000 feet high. To the south-east side alone the moun- tains are wanting, and here is the seat of cul- ture and population, and where lies the arm of the sea or gullet which conducts to Fai-fo. We saluted the fort, after juichoring, with 358 EMBASSY TO SIAM twenty-one guns, which was returned with three. At half-past two o'clock, a Mandarin came on hoard. This was the Civil Chief of the place. His appearance was respectable, and his .manner unassuming. He informed us that he and the Military Mandarin were only deputies of the Governor of Fai-fo or rather Fuchim, for this last is the name of the chief town and province^ and that it was necessary for him to make a re- port of our arrival to this officer; for which purpose he requested a list of the parsons com- posing the Mission, — of the ships,>crew, &c. The list had been prepared beforehand in Chinese, and was immediately put into his hands. The questions put by this visitor were neither nu- merous nor importunate. He wished to know, as others did, whether the Mission was from the King of England, or the Governor-general of India. We satisfied him upon this subject, and gave him a similar explanation to that which I had occasion to give at Saigun. He said, that in three days there would be an answer from the Governor of Fai-fo, and that he hoped in ten days more we should be invited to the Court. This person, who had visited China, spoke the Chinese dialect of the province of Canton fluently ; and as our Chinese interpreter was a native of that part of China, we had an easy means of communicating with him. Se^*. 1 6. — M. Borel, ^ Frpuch firpntlem«n. -^rhr AND COCHIN CHINA. 359 had a commercial establishment at Touran, and who, with his brother, were the only Europeans at the place, paid us a visit this forenoon. M. Borel informed us, that our visit to Saigun had been known for the last six days at Court, and that, of course, our arrival was every hour ex- pected. Sept. 19. — ^Yesterday forenoon we had a visit from the Civil Mandarin of Touran, the same person who had come on board the first day of our arrival. We thought he had brought some decisive answer from the Gk>vemyemor-general to the King. — Mission jealously watched by the officers of Government. — Visit t» the Mandarin of Elephants, or Foreign Minister, and ac- count of the discussion which took place with him. — Mission refused an audience of the King. — Visit to the fortifications of Hue, and description of them. — Visits to the two Frendi Mandarins. — Posthumous honours paid to civil and military officers of distinction. — Negociations continued. — Excursions in the environs of Hu^.^ — Royal Mausoleum. — Temples of Gkiutama* — Collation sent by the King to the Mission. — Ne- gociations. — Cochin Chinese cookery.— Opinion of Chinese re- sidents respecting Cochin Chinese Government. — French Mis* sion to Cochin China. — Another visit to the Foreign Minister, and discussions which ensued. — Commencement of the mon- soon with a gale of wind and heavy fall of rain, which inundates the town of Hue.— Visit from the two principal assistants of , the^ Foreign Minister, and discussion with them. — Final visit to the Foreign Minister, and termination of the negociation* Striking circumstance, in illustration of Cochii^ Chinese manners. Sept. 26. — At AsL in the morning, one of the f oyal galleys came idongside, with the Intendant of the Fprt and other Mandarins on board, tb 2 B 2 372 EMBASSY TO SIAM invite us on shore. A house was prepared for us quite close to the place where we anchored, and we landed immediately. Our accommodation was very good, according to the habits of the people. The house was tiled, and consisted of ten apartments, constructed of substantial wood upon a well-raised terrace, with abundance of ofiBce- houses. There was a court-yard in front. One side of the house looked towards the river, and the other towards one of the principal streets of the town. At both these quarters, from which alone ingress or egress was practicable, there was raised for the occasion a stockade of bambbos, and a strong party of not less than an hundred men was directed to guard, or rather to watch us ; — in a word, we were^ for the time at least, state prisoners. The Inten- dant of the Port waited upon us immedi- ately, and told us he was requested by the Mandarin of Strangers to receive the letter of the Governor-general and the translations. I made no hesitation in complying with this de- mand, and immediately produced the letter itself, — a correct Portuguese translation made at Cal- cutta, and a translation in the Chinese language made by Mr. Marshman, the learned missionaiy of Serampore. The only questions now asked respecting the letter or Mission were — ^whether the Governor of Lower Cochin China had ac* f.naUv seen the Govemor-fi[ener«d> let*^*' ^^ ^W AND COCHIN CHINA. 378 King; and whether the letter itself was writ- ten with the knowledge of the King of Eng- land. The Intendant of the Port required of us, in civil terms, not to go beyond our house, or pass the sentinels of our guard, until the. letter of the Gtovemor-general was approved of by the King — this being the . invariable usage of the Court, with regard to all missions from foreign coimtries. About noon an officer came with a letter from the Mandarin of Elephants. He brought a quan- tity of provisions and thirty quans* in money. This last we were compelled to accept to avoid giving umbrage, which a refusal would unques- tionably have done. The intention of the money, it was said, was to obviate the necessity of our servants going to market where there might be a risk of disputes with the inhabitants. The Mandarin of Touran, who left that place the same night we did, and made his journey by land, arrived at the capital this morning, and paid us a visit. He had been directed to repair here on our account. Sept 27.— Shortly after breakfast, the Inten- dant of the Port and other Mandarins called with the Chinese translation of the Governor- general's letter. They informed us, that the trans- lation which we had furnished to the Governor * Aboat fifteen Spuiiah dollan, in a nuaeraUe ooin ooDiposed of line. 874 EMBASSY TO SIAM of Saigun was correct in its style, but that the present one was very objectionable; as, besides other errors, the Governor-general there daimed an equality of rank with the King of Cochin China. They admitted that the letter was good Chinese, but that the etiquette of the Court was greatly violated in it. It was stated in reply, that in the English letter the style was unequi- vocally respectful, and such as the Grovemor* general would have used in addressing his own Sovereign ; beyond which, nothing farther could reasonably be expected from him. The altera^ tions now required in the Chinese translation, however, were not material, and therefore sub- mitted to without difficulty. The same objec- tions were made here, as at Saigun, to our dis- claiming any wish to possess forts or territory ; and the expression in the Governor-general's let- ter, mentioning the death of the late King, was considered improper. His Majesty, it was ob- serv^ed, ought to have been represented as not dead, but merely gone to Heaven ! The Man- darins, who had the conduct of this business, were not less fastidious, or less troublesome, in matters of minute detail, than tlieir brethren at Saigun. They insisted that our interpreter should transcribe every word of the copies taken in his own handwritings and that the documents should be signed by him as well as both signed and sealed by myself. This tedious matter occu- AND COCHIN CHINA. 875 pied from ten in the morning to five in the evening, when the Mandarins left us apparently satisfied. Sept 28. — In our new residency we found our- selves treated with perfect respect, but we were close prisoners. Interpreters and Cochin Chinese servants were always at hand to do every office for us, but our Indian servants were not allowed to move beyond the doors without two or three persons to watch them, and this only once or twice in the course of the day. A singular ex- ception was made in favour of our Chinese at- tendants. These were permitted to go abroad with entire freedom, and no suspicions enter- tained of them, any more than if they had beeii natural-bom subjects of Cochin China itself « It is obvious from this, that all intercourse be- tween European nations ought to be conducted through the instrumentality of the Chinese, and that the greater number of these people there are attached to. an European mission, the fewer. ob- stacles it will be likely to encounter. A singular mixture of jealousy and respect was observed to us in this early stage of our. intercourse with the Cochin Chinese Court. While we were not permitted to go beyond the threshold of our doors, an order was given, that all persons on horseback should disitaount as they passed our dwelling, out of compliment to \xi^ or irather» in all probability j^ in consequence of 376 EMBASSY TO SIAM our being supposed to be under the immediate protection of the King; and it was expressly forbidden to any one to stand and gaze at us from the street. The bastinado was liberally ap- plied to the passengers, in execution -of these ot- ders ; and, for neglect of duly enforcing them» seven soldiers of the guard received fifteen strokes apiece this morning. The punishment, in such cases, follows the sentence and offence, with a ra- pidity truly summary. A sentinel, for example, neglects to strike his rattle when challenged with military promptitude ; the officer comes out, throws him down upon his face, and forthwith gives him ten or more strokes of the bastinado! The former, by a prostration, acknowledges his obligations for the parental correction, and the business is ended. The military men are so re- gularly broken in to the bastinado, that they re- ceive it without a murmur. When the seven sol- diers, already alluded to, for example, were flog- ged, tliey threw themselves down upon their faces, and received the strokes of the bamboo as a mere matter of course,— duly making a low- obeisance to tlie officer who directed the punish- ment, when it was over. The civil classes do not seem to be just so well trained, and, as we had ourselves an opportunity of observing, new failed to make some resistance, and occasionally an effectual one. Slight corporal punishments ap- peared to be carried inexorably into effect One AND COCHIN CHINA. 877 of the interpreters, detected in imposing upon pur servants in the purchase of some trifling articles, was sentenced to receive ten strokes of the bamboo. We were informed of this, and re- quested, for our satisfaction, to send a person to see the sentence put into effect. We begged that no such chastisement should be inflicted upon our account, stating that the matter in question was not of the slightest moment ; but our remon- strances were of no avail, and the punishment was duly inflicted; while the culprit was admo- nished, that the next offence would be punished by the infliction of the cangue^ or, " wooden ruflP." It may indeed be said, that the Cochin Chinese are a well-flogged nation ; and one might expect that the universality of this brutal system would render them not only servile, obsequious and cow- ardly, but also timid, gloomy and suspicious : but, in the latter respect at least, the case is quite the contrary ; and the lower orders of the Cochin Chinese, as far as we could judge from outward appearance, seemed to be vain, cheerful, good- humoured, obliging and civil, beyond all Asiatic people whom we had seen. Sept 29. —The Intendant of the Port, and other Mandarins, called yesterday, requesting two ad- ditional copies of the Chinese translation of the Governor-general s letter, which were accordingly given, and they presented to us the compliments of the Mandarin of Elephants, saying that he 378 EMBASSY TO 8IAM would be prepared to receive us about ten o'clock, if we would favour him with a visit. We agreed to do so ; and an accommodation galley bdng sent for us, Mr. Finlayson and I left our dwell- ing al)out half-past twelve. The Mandarin's re^ sidence is situated above the new fortress, or rather fortified city, on the banks of a highly picturesque and beautiful reach of the river ; and our journey occupied near an hour and a half, being prind- pally along two faces of the fortress. M, Cbai- gneau and jNI. Vanier, two French gentlemen who had the rank of Mandarins at the Court, met us as we landed, and accompanied us to the dwelling of the jMinister. We found this person- age seated in an open hall of great size, A crowd of people surrounded tlie place, but there were no persons of any distinction within, and the upper end of the hall was occupievemor-general of India was acceded to; and that English ships would be admitted freely to 380 EMBASSY TO SI AM trade in the King's dominions. He added, that a copy of the new regulation for foreign trade was already prepared for us, and would be sent without delay. On this subject he observed, that he farther pledged himself personally to use every means in his own power to insure despatdi in the transaction of the business of such British merchant-ships as might visit Cochin China. He also said, that an answer to the letter of the Gk)vernor-general would be given before our departure, and indeed as soon as required. In alluding to the imports upon foreign trade, he observed, ** In England, imposts are no doubt levied upon foreign commerce, as here; every nation has a right to do this, for its own be- nefit." The Minister now stated, that in the letter of the Governor-general mention was made of certain presents for the King, and that they were specified in a communication from the Governor of Saigun. He wished to be more particularly informed on this subject. The ne- cessary information was given, and the presents mentioned. He requested to be furnished with a written list of them, that he might lay it before His Majesty. This was supplied on our return home in the evening. The Minister, as if he wished to consider every thing as now settled, requested to know if we wished to gn^ rifv oijr r*iiriop^*ir ^v '<»**iTi(r ^ht^ f*'^.'} 'vnA it> AKD COCHIN CHINA. 881 environs,-— observing, that when we desired to go abroad, he should be ready to supply us with barges or palanquins, as might be most suitable to the places we intended to visit. No notice having been taken of introducing us into the presence of the King, and it being evident that this was intentional, I now pointedly brought the subject forward, and desired to know whether a day had been appointed for granting us an au- dience. The Minister answered, that the sub- ject of our Mission being a commercial one, it was not customary for the King, on such oc- canons, to grant an audience. It was stated, in answer, that it was true that one great purpose of the Mission was commercial, but that it had also for its object to congratulate the King upon his accession to the throne. The Chief shifted his ground, and said, that, according to the cus- tom of the country, audiences were only granted by His Majesty to the bearers of letters from Kings ; and that if the letter had been from the King of England, there could have been no question about an audience. The Governor- general, he was aware, he said, was the viceroy of a great country, but he was not a sovereign prince. I observed, in answer, that the Governor-general of India was in habits of direct correspondence with the first princes of the East, into whose presence his representatives were always re- ceived. It was also stated, that the present Mis- 382 EMBASSY TO SIAM sion had had an audience of the King of Siam a few months ago. To this he rephed promptly, ^ AVhat is done in Siam is no rule for this coim-^ try." I added, on this subject, that it was so far from contrary, even to the customs of Co- chin China itself, that His Majesty's father had granted two audiences to the representative ci the Governor-general of India, no longer ago than eighteen years, and at a time when our Indian empire was neither so great nor power- ful as at present. Upon this, I brought to his notice the circumstances connected with the Mission of Mr. lloberts, deputed by the Mar- quis of Wellesley, in 1804. The old Chief stated, that he remembered the circumstance well, and he intre])idly asserted that Mr. Ro- berts was never admitted to an audience. I was aware that M. Vanier, who sat at my right hand, had received Mr. Roberts at Touran, and that he must, therefore, have been present either at tlie audience or at the capital, at the moment of Mr. Robert's visit ; and therefore I referred to him. M. Vanier stated, that he was sick at the time, and not actually present at the au- dience, but tliat tliere was no question of Mr. Roberts having had an audience of the King. This was explained to the Mandarin, who was once more compelled to change his ground; and now stated, what was perhaps nearer the truth, that the customs of the country, in this AND COCHIN CHINA. S83 respect, had been changed by his present Ma^ jesty, whose poKcy, in all such matters, differed widely from that of his father. We after- wards indeed learned, that, since his accession the Court etiquette had, in every way, become more ceremonious and uncomplying, and that it was the great ambition of the King to mi- mic the ceremonial of the Court of Pekin. 1 finally requested the Minister to represent to His Majesty our desire to have the honour of an audience. He endeavoured, for some time, to evade this demand; but at last assented to convey our request, promising that we should have an answer on the following day. In the course of this last part of the converf- sation, the national vanity of the Cochin Chi- nese, and the exalted opinion they entertain of themselves and their Sovereign, were suffi- ciently conspicuous. " It is natural enough,'* said the Mandarin, with a smile, ''that you should employ every expedient in your power to attain the honour of being presented to so great a King.** During our visit, a handsome entertainment of meat, fruits, and wine, was served to us; and while the Chinese drama was acting, the Chief afiably explained the most striking parts of it This audience lasted from two to near nx o'clock, and we returned home by the op- p<^ite walls of the new city from those by which 384 EMBASSY TO SIAM we had proceeded, so that in going and com- ing we made the whole circuit of it This was no doubt done to give us an opportunity of admiring this splendid and extraordinary work, to which I do not imagine there is any thing parallel in the East. Sept. 30. — Notice was sent to us yesterday forenoon, that an accommodation-barge woidd be sent, to take us to whatever part of the city we wished to visit, and that the French Mandarins would accompany us. At three o'clock MM. Chaigneau and Vanier accordingly waited upon us, and said that they had orders from the King to conduct us into the new city, and to show us the works. We ascended the river, and landed on the west side of the new forti- fication, or walled city, where we found a Co- chin Chinese Mandarin waiting to receive us. The new city, which is of a quadrangular form, is completely insulated, having the river on two sides of it, and a spacious canal of from thirty to forty yards broad on the other two. The circumference of the walls, or of the city, which is the same thing, is upwards of five miles. The form of the fortification is nearly an equilateral quadrangle, each face mea- suring 1180 toises. The late King himself was the engineer who formed the plan, under the in- structions and advice, however, of the Frendi officers in his service, but whose personal assist^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 385 ance he had lost, before he commenced the un- dertaking, in the year 1805. This singular man proves to have been no mean proficient in this branch of European military science ; for the works, as far as we coidd judge, are planned and constructed on technical rules, and the materials and workmanship are not inferior to the design. The fortress has a regular and beautiful glacis, extending from the river or canal to the ditch; a covert way all round; and a ditch which is thirty yards broad, with from four to five feet water in it, all through. The rampart is built of hard earth; cased on the outside with bricks. Each angle is flanked by four bastions, intended to mount thirty-six guns a-piece, some in embra- sures, and some in barbette. To each face there are also four arched gateways of solid masonry, to which the approach across the ditch is by hand- some arched stone-bridges. The area inside is laid out into regular and spacious streets, at right angles to each other. A handsome and broad canal forms a communication between the river and the fortress, and within is distributed by various branches, so as to communicate with the palace, the arsenal, the granaries, and other public edifices. By this channel the taxes and tributes are brought from the provinces, and conducted at once to the very doors of the palace or magazines. The palace is situated within a strong citadel, consisting of two distinct walls, or ramparts, vol.. I. 2 c 386 EMBASSY TO STAM Within this we were not invited; but the roof of tlie palace itself was distinguishable by its yel- low colour ; and one handsome temple, consecrat- ed to the royal ancestors of the King, was also noticed. This last, which has no priests attached to it, was the only place of worship within the new city. In the whole of this extensive fortification, there is scarcely any thing slovenly, barbarous, or incomplete in design. Perhaps the only excep- tions are the Chinese umbrella-shaped towers over the gates, and the embrasures of one or two of the bastions finished by his present Majesty, and in which he has taken it into his head to invert the rule of science and common sense, by mak- ing the embrasures to slope inwards instead of out- wards. The banks of the river and canal form- ing the base of the glacis, are not only regu- larly sloped down every where, but wherever the work is completed, for it is still unfinished in a few situations, they are cased from the foun- dation with a face of solid masonry. The canal within the walls is executed in the same perfect and workmanlike manner; and the bridges which arc thrown over it, have not only neat stone ba- lustrades, but are paved all over with marble brought from Tonquin. The first object in the interior to which oiu -curiosity was particularly pointed, was the public AND COGHIN CHINA. 387 in re^^ular order, and are full pf corp, being said to contain mfiny years' consumption for the city. It has been the practice qf the late and present King, to add two or three ranges of granaries every year to the number. The pernicious ci^St torn of hoarding grain against years of scarcity, and the unavoidable effect of which is to aggra- vate, or even to create, the evil it is intended to obviate, seems to be a received and popular maxim -of Cochin Chinese government. It has its use in maintaining the tyranny of a despotic govejcn- ipent. The b^rrac}cs were the next object pointed out to us, and hqre we found the troops drawn out. These buildings are excellent, and, in point qf arrangement and cleanliness would do no dis- or^it to the best organized army in Europe. They are extensive, and surround the whole of the outer {^rt of the citadel. We were in- jformed ^that from twelve to thirteen thousand troops were constantly stationed at the capital. The most extraordinary spectacle was still to be exhibited — the arsenal. A violent fall of rain, .and night coming on, prevented us from inspect-' ing the whole of this ; but what we did see, was more than sufficient to excite our surprise and gratify our curiosity. The iron cannon were first pointed out to us, consisting of an extraordinary astsemblage of old ship-guns of various Euro*- pean nations — -French, English, Dutch, and For- 2 c 2 388 EMBASSY TO SIAM tuguese. These were objects of little curiosity compared with the brass ordnance, the balls, and shells, all manufactured in Cochin China, by native workmen, from materials supplied by Ton- quin, and after French models. The ordnance consisted of cannon, howitzers and mortars. The carriages were all constructed, finished, and paint- ed^ as substantially and neatly as if they had been manufactured at Woolwich or Fort Wil- liam, and the field-carriages especially were sin- gularly neat and handsome. The cannon are of various calibres, from four to sixty-eight pounders, with a large proportion of eighteen pounders. Among them were nine remarkable guns cast by the late King ; these carry each a ball weighing seventy Chinese catties, or, in other words, are ninety-three pounders ; they are as handsomely modelled and as well founded as any of the rest, and placed upon highly ornamented carriages. On these remarkable pieces of ordnance is inscrib- ed the name of the late King, Ja-lung, and the day and year in which they were cast. The King used to say that these would prove the most durable monuments of his reign — no great com- pliment to his administration. The art of casting good brass cannon, under the direction of Europeans, appears to have been ^ong known in this part of the world, for among the cannon in the arsenal were a good number \f vnrf" txroU fruiTiflA/l nr'lnjipno^ PTlPor^^TrMv '^'P tbP AND COCHIN CHINA. 389 ^z6 of orig hine-poiinders, as old as the years 1664 and 1665. These had an inscription in the Portuguese language, importing that they were cast in Cochin China, or Kamboja, and bear- ing the dates in question, with the name of the artist. Although very inferior indeed to those recently cast under the direction of the French, still they were very good specimens of workman- ship. The balls and shells in the arsenal through- out were neatly piled up, and arranged in the European method : the gun-carriages were aU painted, and in short the arsenal was in the most perfect and complete order in all its organ- ization. The chief of the artillery had been directed to exhibit the whole of it to us, and we found him waiting for us on our arrival. This was one of the old warriors of the late King, a venerable and fine-looking old man, habited in a rich suit of velvet. Besides being chief of the arsenal and ar- tillery, this Master Greneral of the ordnance, was also intendant of the household, and in this last situation, according to all accounts, was charged with certain details scarcely compatible with his military character. It was his business, for ex- ample, to superintend the royal kitchen, and to make a registry of all the pregnancies and births within the seraglio, that all possible care might be taken to exclude illegitimacy from its sacred enclosures. 390 EMBASSY TO SI AM The whole of the cannon within the fortified city are not only raised on platforms to protect the carria{:^es from damp, but placed for security against the weather in the arsenal ; and there \s not one mounted upon the works, with the ex- ception of a few upon the walls of the citadd. The cannon, it is said; which are required for the sixteen bastions, amount to five hundred and se- venty-six, and for the whole of the works the recjuisite number is about eight hundred. I do not know what the exact number in the arsenal is, but it probably far exceeds this amount. The i>owder magazine is constructed with the same intelligence as the rest of the works : it is fenced by a strong wall, and has a broad and dee]) ditch completely surrounding it. Close to it is an extensive parade, for the exercise of the troops. It is hardly necessary to say, that against an Asiatic enemy this fortification is impregnable: its great fault is its immense extent. I presume, it would require an army of 60,000 men at least, to defend it;— a force which would be far more effectually employed in harassing an European enemy, (the only enemy to be apprehended,) by those eoninion desultory modes of warfare, which it is alone safe for an Asiatic enemy to Oppose to a disciplined army. An European force, either by making regular approaches, or by a bombard- ment, could not fail to render itself soOti master AND COCHIN CHINA. 891 of the place; and this occurrence, by putting it in possession of the treasure, the granaries, and principal arsenal of the kingdom, — by destroying the principal army, and thus cutting oJ0F all the resources of the Gk)vernment, — would be virtually equivalent to conquering the kingdom at a single blow. We did not reach our residence till eight o'clock at night, — well drenched and fatigued, but highly gratified at the novel and striking scene which we had witnessed. M. Vanier called upon us to-day, and we ac- companied him on a visit to his house. M. Vanier is the senior French lyiandarin,— a gentleman of pleasing manners, and of much practical informa- tion respecting Cochin China, in which he had no^y resided thirty-three ye^s. He was an officer in the King's marine; — served in the whole of his wars, i^nd now held a high rank and title; In his youth, he served in the French navy, and was present with the combined French and American army, to which Lord Cprnwallis surrendered at Little York, as well as in the action between the Comte de Grasse and Lord Rodney. He had prints of the battle of the 12th of April on the walls of his room, and dwelt upon its details,— pointing out how the French ought to have won it, and how they lost it through the errors of their commander, and the superior skill of the EngUsh admu^l. M. Vanier told us that he and M. Chaigneau 392 EMBASSY TO SIAM had been sent for in the morning by the King, for the express purpose of being asked what opinions we had given respecting the new fortifications and other public works ; and that he was gratified when he understood that we had expressed great surprise and admiration at all we saw. In the course of conversation, he dwelt upon the jealousy and apprehension which the extensive conquests of the British in India had excited among the Cochin Chinese and other nations of the farther East. In reference to the Mission of Mr. Ro- berts, in 1805, he remarked upon the indiscretion of some of the presents offered by us, stating that one of them was a series of prints representing the capture of Seringapatam, and the death of Tippoo Sultaun ! I When the late King saw these, he said, " The Governor-general of India wishes to intimidate me, by exhibiting to me the fate of this Indian prince." Oct. 1. — We called this morning upon M. Chaigneau, the other French Mandarin. This gentleman had been twenty-eight or twenty-nine years in the country. He returned to France in 1819, and came back with the appointment of Consul-general for Cochin China, from the French Court. We did not find M. Chaigneau at home; he had been summoned to a council by the King, but we were received by his son and nephew — the latter an intelligent young man, lately come from France. In company with these gentlemen, AND COCHIN CHINA. 393 we visited the great market, which appeared to be well stocked with all the usual articles of na- tive consumption. Returning home, there was pointed out to us, but we were not allowed to visit them, some singular temples on the western side of the river* These, which I think were six in number, and constructed of stone and lime, with tiled roofs, were surrounded by an extensive wall of masonry and appeared altogether neat and spacious. They compose a sort of pantheon, built by the late Emperor, and consecrated to the manes of de- parted Mandarins of the military class. There is a similar group farther up the river, conse- crated to the souls of worthies of the literary or civil order. In these temples the bodies are not buried, and nothing more is done than dedicating a small pillar to each of the departed, on which his name is inscribed. These cenotaphs have no priests, and are kept constantly shut, except on the annual festival set aside for the performance of religious honours to the souls of deceased ancestors. Among the heroes whose names are honoured with a mo^ nument in the miUtary cenotaph, are a French- man and an Irishman. The first was a corporal, of the name of Manuel, who blew himself up in a small vessel, when about to fall into the hands of the Tysons. Our countryman was an officer, —a person of great gallantry, and a favourite of 39 i EMBASSY TO SIAM the King, but I could not learn his name. The King was desirous of giving an eminent place in the literary cenotaph to the soul of the Bishop of Adran, and spoke to him on the subject; — but the catholic prejudices of the latter revolted against it; and it was one of his dying requests^ that this pagan compliment might not be paid to his memory. The Bishop is buried within four miles of Saigun, at w^iicli place he died in 1799. A handsome monument was erected to him, at which, during the life-time of the late King, a guard of two hundred soldiers kept constant watch. We were not acquainted with this cir- cumstance, when we were at Saigun, or we should certainly have paid our respects at the tomb of so remarkable a person. Oct. 2. — Shortly after our return home from our excursion yesterday, the Intendant of the Port waited upon us w4th a communication from the Minister ; and the two French Man- darins, by order of the King, shortly afterw^ards joined him, to assist in explaining the Minis- ter's message. The Intendant of the Port be- gan by informing us, that every thing being now settled, we were at perfect liberty to go abroad wherever w^e pleased; that we might again visit any part of the fortifications we w^ished, or go into the country, on shooting excursions, or, in short, take any otlier amuse- ment we thought proper. This part of the AND COCHIN CHINA. 395 communication was said to come directly from the Eong himself, who desired us not to take offence at the guards placed over our dwelling, which were intended only to protect us against the importunate curiosity of the lower classes of the people, and to prevent depredations upon our property, which, were they to take place, would be a matter of indelible disgrace to the Cochin Chinese Government. — The subject of the presents was then intro- duced. We were informed that the King could not accept of any part of them, because, as it was alleged, we had come here only to ask for trade, and had not yet gained any actual ad- vantage from our intercourse. It was added, that as soon as we should have reaped any be- nefit from a connexion with Cochin China, the King would be happy to accept of any thing that should be presented to him. On this point we answered, that we had no observation what- ever to make, and that His Majesty would ac- cept or refuse the presents as he thought best. Great care was taken to show no disappointment at the refusal of the presents, and in conse- quence some uneasiness appeared to be felt by the Cochin Chinese at the indifference which we evinced on this subject. The Intendant of the Port intreated on behalf of his chief, that no unfriendly construction might be put upon the rgeetion oi the presents by His Majesty, and a 396 EMBASSY TO SIAM quiet assurance was given by us that no un- favourable impression whatever was produced by this circumstance. Tlic subject of trade was next introduced, and on this point entire satisfaction was given; more, in fact, being conceded, than was con- templated by the Indian CJovemment, or than it was believed when the Mission was determin- ed upon, that the supposed anti-commercial pre- judices of the Cochin Chinese would have ad- mitted. It was stated, that, all the ports of the Cochin Chinese empire worth frequenting would be open to British commerce, upon the same terms as to the Chinese of Canton, and that official copies of the tariff and regulations of trade would be furnished. We desired to know whether the port of Kachao in Tonquin, and of Kangkao or Hattian in Kamboja, were included among those where British trade would be admissible. The Mandarin answered, that the ports contemplated by the Court were those of Saigun, Faifo, Touran, and Hu6, but that Kachao and Hattian, at our desire, would be added to the number. The French Mandarins, by authority of the King, introduced the subject of His Majesty's declining to grant us an audience, and stated expressly, that as this had been refused to others in our situation, it could not now be ,Misi.creT>flv firra"t/jd, Tb^ **irciimstJi«fi»p con- AND COCHIN CHINA. 897 nected with a recent Embassy from the Court of France, and which had scarcely been hinted at before, were now distinctly brought forward as a conclusive reason for His Majesty's declin- ing to grant us an audience, and accepting the presents of the Governor-general. The French gentlemen stated that on the 25th of Decem- ber, 1817, the French frigate Cybelle, of forty guns, arrived at Touran with a mission from the French CJovernment. The Envoy was M. Achille de Kargariou, a captain of the first class in the French Navy. He was charged with a letter from the Minister of Marine to the first Minister of the Cochin Chinese Govern- ment, and with valuable presents from the Khig of France to His Majesty of Cochin China, but there was no letter from the one Sovereign to the other. The King of Cochin China con- sequently refused to grant the Envoy an au- dience, and even declined to receive any of the presents. This happened during the lifetime of his late Majesty ; the same prince who lay under so many obligations, if not to the French nation, at least to many in&viduals of that country Whatever might have been the ostensible reasons for refusing to receive the French Envoy and the presents of the King of France, there is good ground for believing that the true cause was the nature of the demands which the Envoy was instructed to make. He is alleged to have Si)8 E^rilASSV TO SIAM required the fulfilment of the treaty of 1787, by which a considerable territorial cession, and many other political advantages, were yielded to France. But the situation of the Codiin Chinese monarch was now very different from what it had been when he signed that convention, the hard conditions of which were extorted from him by his necessities only, nor could he now, in his pro- sperity, be expected to receive with complacency a proposal for its renewal, especially since he bad surmounted all his difficulties without its assist- ance. Upon this subject, of course, nothing was said by the French Mandarins, nor did it become us to put any questions. Oct 3. — In company with the French gentle- men, we made last evening an excursion into the environs of the town, taking with us our fowling- pieces. Our jounicy, which lasted several hours, took us over a good deal of the country on both banks of the river. Although the soil is light and sandy, it is every where in a high state of cultivation, and this consists of rice, mulberry- trees, cotton, and orchards of fruit-trees. It is thickly strewed with viltages, imiversally siu:- rounded by hedges of live bamboo; and I am told til is last appearance is general throughout the inhabited country. The banks of the river are well raised, and in some places extremely pic- turesque and beautiful, more resembling the scenery of an European, than a tropieal countr}^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 399 Hu^ is, I dare say, the only Indian city in the East, the neighbourhood of which has good roads, good bridges and canals. - Here are a number of highways, straight, broad, and well constructed, and besides the stone bridges connected with the fortifications, there are a number of wooden ones, extremely neat, and built on European rules. In the course of the excursion now described, we passed along the banks of a deep and regular canal, which extends, as we were told, for twelve or fourteen miles, and serves the double purpose of irrigation and navigation. Boats laden with rice, just as it had been reaped, were passing along it to the city. By means of many canals of the same description, and embankments to- wards the sea, extensive tracts of land have been rendered available to agriculture, which were be- fore flooded by the tide, and therefore a waste. All this was the work of the late King, -WJmse active toind appears to have been devoted to pro- jects sometimes of utility, but oftener of osten- tation and ambition. It is probable, that his subj^ts lost at least as much by the last as they gained by the first. All public works are accom- plished by corvfees and forced contributions, which are an intolerable burthen to the people. The new fortress, scarcely yet completed, has been, for example, entirely constructed on this principle, ind has been now seventeen y^arsin executing. In such B state of society and government, there 400 EMBASSY TO SIAM can be no security that the labour of the people shall not be wasted, even under the most respect- able princes, in schemes of folly or ostentation, or in monuments of superstition. The late King, for example, constructed a splendid mausoleum and laid out extensive gardens, as a place of inter- ment for himself and his favourite Queen, upon which thousands of his subjects were occupied for years. The following account of these gar- dens was given to us. They are situated in a romantic part of the mountains, and about ten leagues to the north of the capital. The tombs are the least splendid part of this undertaking, which consists besides, of spacious gardens and groves, laid out in walks and terraces, and, as it is said, with no mean taste. In the course of this splendid undertaking, hills were levelled, — mounds thrown across from one hill to another, — canals and tanks dug, and spacious roads constructed. The Queen, a woman of great beauty and merit, who had accompanied her husband in his exile in Siam, — in his retreat among the desert islands, in the Gulf of that name, and who was besides his constant companion in alL his warlike expe- ditions by sea and land, was buried here about seven years before our visit. Four years after- wards, the King himself was placed by her side. The same spot, before being decorated in the present magnificent manner, was also the ancient burying-ground of the predecessors of the present AND COCHIN CHINA. 401 race of kings. The place was represented to us as a delicious and a romantic spot, exceed- ing in beauty every other scene in the country. We wished for permission to pay it a visit, but were politely informed that the King was al- ways reluctant to permit the visits of strangers, whose* presence, he said, might " trouble the repose of the spirits of his ancestor s.^^ In the course of the day's excursion now de- scribed we visited two temples. One, a spacious and large building, was dedicated to the ordi- nary form of Chinese worship ; but the other, a mean little building in one of the villages, af- forded the first example which we had seen of the worship of Buddha or Gautama. There were two altars in this last, on the principal of which was ah image of this Indian divinity sitting cross-legged. It was made of wood, but gilded, with the exception of the head, which was painted black. The features had a kind of negro cast, and, like the representations of the same object of worship in Siam, the hair of the head was curled. There were several paint- ings of Buddha also upon the wall. On the other altar was the figure of two storks in carved wood, such as we had seen at Kandyu. There was but one priest belonging to this temple, and he was sick, so that we could not see him. The priesthood, of whatever form of worship, is but in slender repute in Cochin China. Instead of VOL. I. 2d 402 EMBASSY TO SI AM stumbling on one at every step, as in our walks in Siam, here, from their small number, we scarcely ever met any. In our excursion to-day, we were a good deal surprised at discovering, 'among the feathered tribe, an early and familiar acquaintance, which I had not seen before in any part of India; — this was the common European magpie (Car^ vus Picajy which was in considerable numbers about all the villages. Its habits, manners, and appearance, seemed to differ in no respect from those of the European species. Oct. 4. — Mr. Chaigneau entertained us yes- terday, at his house on the banks of the river. The repast was entirely French. We had be«i entertained in a similar manner, the day before, at M. A^anier's. All the French at the place were on both occasions invited to meet us. These consisted of a gentleman of the medical pro- fession, who was old enough to have been a sur- geon of the first class in the fleet of M. Suffrein, of the nephew of M. Chaigneau, and of his two ' sons bom in the country. The Missionaries are all in a place fifteen leagues distant, and we did not see any of tliem. The lady of M. Chaig* neau is the daughter of a French gentleman, and accompanied lier husband to France three years ago. Mad. Vanier is a Cochin Chinese, ^ fine-looking woman, tall, and as fair as a na- *:nrr of thp Sou^h ^^ F'lrnpi: TVifVr ths^ ffY^Vl- AKD COCHIN CHINA. 408 tlemen and ladies dr^s in the Cochin Chinese fashion — a compliance with the customs of the country, indispensable to every stranger who takes up his permanent residence in it Even the Chinese, who are not very tractable in maU J lefts of this nature, are obliged to submit to it J for such is the vanity of the people, that the dress of a stranger, of whatever country, is con- sidered by them as nothing less than ridiculous, and is sure to attract so much curiosity as to prot^e v6ry inconvenient. Our hosts, the French Mandarins, were in politics decided Royalists'; and it was their de- votion to royalty that fixed them, and the greater number of their countrymen, in this remote quarter of the world. In short, it waS the French Revolution which achieved the revolution in Cochin China, and established the existing order of things in that country. Whatever their po- litical feelings, however, like all good Frendtmen, our friends were warm lovers of their country^ In their conduct to ourselves, nothing could sur^ pass their politeness, hospitality, and real kind-^ ness ; and I trust we shall always have a grateful recollection of theii^ attentions.* While we were at M. Chaigneau's, a message * iliefle gentlemen hdve all quitted Cochin China since; and I had the pleasure of seeing the greater number of them at Singapore, on their.way to Franpe, in 1825. 2 D 2 404 EMBASSY TO SIAlf was brought to us to say, that at 12 o'clock, a de- putation of two Mandarins would wait upon us, at our residence, with a present of fruit and con- fectionary from his Majesty, and we were re- quested to return home without loss of time to receive it, that no mistakes or delay might take place on a subject of so much importance. We returned accordingly, and found the house already spread with mats, and all requisite preparation making, with great formality, for the reception of his Majesty's gift. This consisted of a ready- dressed entertainment, contained in four very handsome varnished and gilded cases, carried by porters, accompanied by a military guard, and preceded by a military and civil Mandarin of rank, with tneir secretary, — all in their dresses of ceremony. The Mandarins wore a cap of a pecu- liar form, and on a square piece of silk, on the breast of their gown, was embroidered the badge of their order. That of the military chief was a boar, and of the man of letters a stork. The utmost formality was observed throughout the whole of tliis affair, as if it had been a matter of the first consequence to both parties. We re- ceived the deputation at the bottom of the stairs. In the long portico of the house, Mr. Finlayson and myself, witli our Indian Servants, stood on ^ne side, and the Mandarins, with their follow- ers, on the other, forming a ^^re^t for the pre- •*<=*nts which pas?'^ i^of ««rop|i ^^ A liei if them 1i! oamtmtttM (ArrDA3.iararTBtitn.iTittr Ohnea.iv I \ i! AND COCHIN CHINA. 405 was then read by the secretary from a scroll of paper with much formality, and the honour con- ferred upon us duly notified. There is nothing of the slightest moment done here, in public matters, without writing — whereas at Siam, on the other hand, it was found impossible to get the officers of Government to commit a single sentence to paper upon almost any subject. After the list was read, we were politely request- ed to turn towards the presents, and make them an obeisance after our own manner, which Mr. Finlayson and myself complied with. After this ceremony the Mandarins were presented with tea, and took their departure with the same formalities as they had come. It was suggested to us through the Mandarin of Touran, that it would be a proper mark of respect to his Ma- jesty's gift, to make an offer of a sum of money to the Mandarins who brought it, which, as a matter of course, would be declined, but that the offer alone would have the appearance -of a hand- some acknowledgment of his Majesty's condescen- sion. This proposal I rejected, informing the Mandarins, that if the money were really to be accepted, it should be given, but that nothing would be tendered for the avowed purpose of being rejected, such not being our custom. This was acquiesced in, after some hesitation and a good deal of disappointment. Oct. 5.— The Mandarin of Touran called upon 406 BMBAS8Y TO SIAM US this morning, and entered into familiar con- versation. The points on which he was most anxious for information, were the reason of our long war with France, and the cause of our sepa- ration from the Americans, who, he observed, were, in look, manners, and language, the same as ourselves. These were intricate questions, to which it would have been extremely difficult to have given ansAvers that would have been either satisfactory or intelligible to his mind, and no direct attempt at explanation was made on our part. Oct. 6. — Yesterday forenoon, the old Inten- dant of the Port called with a message from the Minister, on the subject of our trade. It seemed that the question had been discussed yesterday morning in the council where the King in per- son was present. The question now put to us was, whether, in levying the duties upon our ships, we should prefer having a fixed sum for vessels of all dimensions, of 3000 quans, or a rated impost, as levied upon the Chinese junks, according to the breadth of the vessel's beam. The second proposal was of course preferred, not only as the most fair and advantageous, but as that least repugnant to custom and usage. After this point had been disposed of, the In- i^f^ndant of the Port requested to know what ^ I tides the English could import into Cochin AKD COCHIN CHINA. 407 purchase. Cotton fabrics, woollens, iron, fire* arms, lead, tin, and salt-petre, were mentioned as staple articles. He pointed out woollens as the most suitable of these, stating that the King's army was clothed in English woollens; and he suggested iron as a fit article of importation into Saigun. He strongly recommended that our ships, on their return from China, should touch at the ports of Cochin China for cargoes, bringing with them Chinese goods which were in univer- sal demand in the country. We had a message in the morning to say, that a deputation would wait upon us in the course of the day, with another present from his Majesty, consisting, as before, of an entertain- ment. About three o'clock it arrived, with the same forms and ceremonies as upon the first oc- casicm ; and one of the Mandarins, a matter which was pointed out as a mark of particular attention, was the fourth person in rank about the Court. After the entertainment was laid out upon six small tables in an adjoining apartment, the Mandarins requested that we would be pleas* ed to go and ^' admire it," which was the ex- pression made use of. In point of quantity it was certainly more than abundant for two gen- tlemen, one of them in delicate health, for it consisted of fifty-two covers. The cookery was by no means contemptible, and the feast was served up in a very neat and deanly manner. 408 EMBASSY TO SI AM It principally consisted of pork, fish, and poul- try, prepared in a great variety of fonns, and of abundance of confectionary. One of the Co- chin Cliinese dainties served up on this occasion ought not to he omitted ; it consisted of three bowls of hatched eggs. When we expressed some surprise at the appearance of this portion of the ro])ast, one of our Cochin Chinese atten- dants observed, with much nditetej that hatched eggs formed a delicacy beyond the reach of the poor, and only adapted for persons of distinction. On inquiry, we, in fact, found that they cost some thirty per cent more in the market than fresh ones. It seems, they always form a distin- guishetl part of every great entertainment ; and it is the practice, wlien invitations are given out, to set tlie hens to hatch. The f§te takes place about the tenth or twelfth day from this pe- riod,— the eggs being then considered as ripe, and exactly in the state most agreeable to the palate of a Cocliin Chinese epicure. It is sin- gular that the Cochin Chinese, who are in ge- neral indiscriminate, and even gross in their diet, have an antipathy to milk, amounting to loathing. Tliey insist, that the practice of using it as food is little better than that of drinking raw blood. Our Indian servants, to the great scandal of the Cochin Cliinese, not only declined )artaking of the royal banquet, but felt their >v'»jiidipps much shofVpcl J?*: fsome of ''he dpfails AND COCHIN CHINA. 409 of it. I proposed distributing the principal part of it among our Cochin Chinese guard, and for this purpose sent for the commander. He said, he dared not lay a finger upon what came from the King, without an express command; and it was found necessary to send a message to the Mandarins of the deputation, to obtain the ne- cessary leave. Oct. 8. — We made another short excursion into the country yesterday, accompanied by some of the French gentlemen, and in returning home passed through the principal part of the town. The appearance of the country was such as I have already described it, — thickly strewed with villages, all surrounded by baniboo hedges, and having good pathways communicating between them. The soil, as before experienced, was light and sandy. We entered several temples, none of them dedicated to the religion of Byddha. On the altar of one temple there was the figure of the cap or coronet of a female of rank, and under it an inscription. This temple, which was an extremely neat and pretty building, was, we were told, founded by a pious lady. We found all these temples carefully locked up ; but, when requested, they were readily thrown open to gratify our curiosity. There was not a single priest, as far as we could discover, attached to any of them» One of the most striking objects in Cochin 410 EMBASSY TO SIAM Chinese landscape is, the little religious groves whicli are here and there interspersed among the villages, and commonly near the burying- places. Of these we saw many in the course of this day's excursion. They are of a circular form, and consist of a variety of thick and umbrageous trees. A single entrance conducts by a winding passage to the centre of them, where there is an open space, and one or more little temples, or ra- ther rude altars. These retreats are consecrated to the manes of the dead, and their gloom and solemnity render them well-suited to this purpose. Oct. 10. — Having made application to the Mi- nister to return to Touran by land, and afterwards to visit Faifo, we received a civil message from him yesterday, to say that we should be allowed to return in the manner most agreeable to our- selves, and that an order would be sent to Faifo to receive us with attention. A Chinese mer- chant of respectability called upon us in the course of this day, and furnished much information re- specting the trade between Hu^ and China. The resident Chinese are the class of persons to be chiefly relied upon in these parts of the world for useful information, and I have seldom applied to them in vain. They possess a degree of practical good sense and intelligence scarcely ever to be found in the natives of the country. The individual in question spoke in discouraging terms of all commercial transactions with the AND COCHIN CHINA. 411 Court, and on this subject used the following strong expression : ** Men of rank are full of eaprice in this country, and there is nothing Imt vexation to be got by dealing with them. If, for example, you offer them for sale a set of tea-dishes, it may happen that they will fancy ttie cups and reject the saucers, — or the con- trary. I never," he added, "have a transaction with them, that I do not feel my neck the smaller for it ;'' — meaning, of course, by this expression, that he never thought his life altogether safe .upon such occasions. This person informed us, that a good deal of suspicion and jealousy r&i garding our views were entertained on our first arrival, which had now abated. I have reascoi, indeed, to confide in the fidelity of this report of the apprehensions of the Cochin Chines^, of which, in the course of our visit, we received many proofs. Among others, I may mention the following: A Chinese, on the day of our arrival, sent us word through our interpreter, an old acquaintance, that he did not believe the Court would allow the English to trade to the country, as they desired no intercourse whatever with them. The expression he used was, that " the Cochin Chinese looked upon the men with red hair and white teeth, — that is to say, Euro- peans, — to be as naturally prone to war and de- predation as tigers." In the evening we made another excursion into 412 EMBASSY TO SI AM the country. A little below the town we entered a considerable river^ which is navigable almost all the way to Tonquin. Every spot of ground, as far as we could see, was weU cultivated. This was the j)eriod of ploughing for the great rice harvest, and a number of ploughs were at work. The soil was so light, that a single bufialo was sufficient for a plough. In a few spots, favour- ably situated for irrigation, the grain was already in the ear. It appeared a very light crop, as might have been expected from the nature of the soil. In Java, or Bengal, or 8iam, it would have been looked upon as a poor one. After proceeding some way on the river above named, we turned into a canal, or rather a branch of the main stream. This leads into a salt-water lake, alx)ut two miles distant, and also commu- nicates with the great river of the capital. The salt-lake in ({uestion abounds in fish, and we met a number of boats on their way to it. The Cochin Chinese are great consumers of fish; and their seas, rivers, lakes, canals, and even brooks, afford a great su|)])ly. The fisheries indeed exhibit almost the only active display of industry which is to be seen among them. At night we received accounts that our launch, which we had despatched some days ago with our heavy baggage, had fortunately succeeded in ■crossing the bar of the river, after having been ri^fn\rt^c\ by i^ h^By\ ^nd dAUfif^»v^"« »*irf, an'' AND COCHIN CHINA. 418 which, now that the north-east monsoon had fah-ly sfet in, rendered the entrance generally impassable. Oct 12. — The French Mandarins called upon us yesterday, by order of the King, to inform us, that to-day the Foreign Minister would show us the answer to the letter of the Governor- general, — that to-morrow certain presents intend- ed for the Governor-general would be presented to us in the hall of ceremonies in the palace ; and that on the succeeding day, or as soon after as we should be inclined, every thing would be in readiness for our journey overland to Touran. At an early hour this morning, a barge was ready to convey us to the house of the Mandarin of Elephants, and we set out imme- diately after breakfast. The French Mandarins accompanied us. We found the Minister in the hall where he had formerly received us. Along with him were his two assistants, and two Mandarins deputed by his Majesty to present the letter to us. After some compli- mentary observations, we proceeded to business. The Minister began with some remarks touch- ing our visit to Saigun, and asked whether it was the custom with us to send letters from one great personage to another open as our's was. I said, that it was not the custom in Europe; but that the princes of Western India simply inclosed their letters to one another in 414 EMBASSY TO SI AM a silken envelope, and that in our correspond- ence with them we conformed to this practice. He said, " It is His Majesty's wish, when tlie Grovemor-general writes again, that the letter may be seiiled, for this is the custom of Cochin Cliina." We were now pointedly asked, whether we had voluntarily shown the Governor-gene- ral's letter to the Governor of Saigun, or whe- ther it had been demanded of us ? We stated the latter, explaining that we did not com- ply until assured that doing so was conform- able to the customs of the country. The Mandarin replied : *^ It is not agreeable to the customs of the country, that any one should inspect letters addressed to His Majesty, before they reach his own presence. A copy, or a duplicate, would have been enough for the Governor of Saigun." These observations pro- bably arose out of jealousy of the Court towards the latter personage. By the concurrent testimony of every person witli whom I have spoken on the subject, this Chief is considered not only as tlie first subject in the kingdom in point of rank and ])ower, but the most distinguished also for his firmness, his talents, and his integrity. His leaving the Court was regretted by the people as a misfortune; and I have be«i assured, that the corruption of the lower Manda- ^ms has known no bounds since they have \nQi 4li9 restraint imr^«!pfJ iionn them bv hif AND COCHIN CHINA. 415 Vigilance and severity. His Majesty is naturally jealoui^ of his influence and popularity. The Minister, after these observations, pro* ceeded to inform us, that certain presents had been prepared, by order of his Majesty, for the Grovemor-general, and some for the Mission^ and that they would be presented to u^ to-mor- row morning at the palace, where we shoiild be received in state by the Minister of Ceremonies, who would be iti attendance for the purpose. I had full time to deliberate upon the subject of these intended presents ; and had resolved t6 de- cline accepting those for the Governor-general, as a necessary consequence of his Excellency's presents having been declined on the part c^ the Cochin Chinese Court. It was at the same time necessary, in doing so, to avoid, as fkr as possible, giving offence to the pride and preteii^' sions of the Cochin Chinese. With this view it was stated, that presents were now super* fluous, as a friendly acquaintance had com- menced ; while to receive them would be contrary to custom and to our instructions, except in the event of those brought by us being accepted by the King. A direct refusal of them was as far as possible avoided, and the presents for the Mission were accepted with due acknowledgments. The Minister answered, that the presents ten- dered tor the Grovemor-general (tf India were mere trifles, not given for their value, but as 416 EMBASSY TO SIAM tokens of liis Majesty's friendship. He showed great anxiety that the presents should be ac- cepted ; but, on our part, persevering in our first resolution, lie at last waived the point; and it was agreed, that we should repair on the fol- lowing morning to the hall of ceremonies to receive the presents for tlie Mission only. We hoped, that in this manner a question respecting which we had anticipated considerable difficulty, had been amicably and temperately disposed of. Drafts of the different papers were now exhi- bited to us. The first of these was the letter for the Governor-general. It was explained by our own Chinese interpreter ; and the language of it ap])earcd, as far as we could judge through this medium, unexceptionable. It was not a letter direct from the King, but from the Minister, by command of his Majesty. It stated — that a letter in the Slnglish language, understood bv iiobodv at Court, but translated by our interpreter, had been received from the (iovernor-general of British India — that this letter expressed a desire that a commercial in- tercourse sliould take place between the Cochin Chinese and the English ; and that it disclaimed all desire for lands or establishments in Cochin China. His Majesty's answer to this was, that ^he wish expressed by the Governor-general bad iivon him satisfaction, and that he '^ad issued the ■— . --5»%{qry orHpfS for ^h<^ o^lmtJs^i. .r stf p^n^jrlisb AND COCHIN CHINA. .417 ships into the ports of his kingdom. The letter then proceeded to give the reasons for the King's declining to receive the presents of the Governor- general, being the same which I have already men- tioned, and concluded with the list of the pre- sents sent to his Excellency as tokens of his friendship. These last were as follow : three pairs of elephant's teeth ; four rhinoceros' horns, set in gold feet ; cinnamon of the first quality, three catties ; of the second quality, five ; and of a third quality, ten; agila wood, of the first quality, five catties ; and of the second, ten cat- ties ; and three piculs of sugar-candy. These are the customary presents sent to foreign princes by the Court of Cochin China. The amount de- termhies the rank of the person to whom they are sent, or at least that conceded to him by the etiquette or vanity of the Cochin Chinese. The cinnamon of the first quality here mentioned, I may observe, is reserved exclusively for His Majesty, and it is death to a subject to trade in it. An incredible value is put upon this commo- dity, viz. twenty dollars the tael, or three hundred and twenty dollars the catty, of one and one-third pound avoirdupois. The subject of commerce wAs then intro- duced. The Minister observed, that His Majesty had granted permission to English ships to visit three ports of the kingdom only, viz. Sai- gun, Han or Touran, with Faifo, and the VOL. I. 2 E 418 EMBASSY TO SIAM capital. With regard to Tonquin, he said, the river was too small for the navigation of English ships. We answered, that in former times the English, and other European nations, had con- ducted a considerable commerce with Tonquin, and that then the river had water enough for ships of large burden. The Minister replied, that the King was resolved not to permit foreign trade, at present, to Tonquin, as that country was a recent conquest, and for which reason it was not deemed convenient to encourage the resort of strangers to it. I was disappointed at this com- munication, after the assurance which had been made on the subject ; but I saw, from the tone in which it was made, that it was conclusive, and that remonstrance would be useless, and might excite jealousy and suspicion. I therefore ac- quiesced at once in the decision; and only ex- pressed a hope, that when we became better ac- quainted, the port of Tonquin would be thrown open to us with the same liberality as the rest. ^ Our Chinese interpreter, after this, translated the tariff and regulations at the three different ports at which we were to be licensed to trade. They were what had been promised, and without variation the same as those conceded to the Chi- nese. After this conversation, the arrangements for our journey were made. We were avowed any ^mnber of porter's and c»"^^' ' ^h^ wp fl^'^inrht AND COCHIN CHINA. 419 proper to name, and the Minister offered us his own barge to convey us the first stage, which is by water. A very handsome entertainment in the Cochin Chinese manner concluded, as we hoped and believed, the whole affair, and we should have been glad to have taken leave. As soon as it was over, however, one of the Mandarins, the Chief of Touran, our earliest acquaintance, stood up and said, that it seemed extraordinary that because we had brought certain presents from the Ciovemor-general of Bengal, and that these pre- sents had been declined, we should dream, in re- turn, of declining the gifts of so great a King as His Majesty of Cochin China. This was the very point the discussion of which we were so anxious to avoid.- I felt much annoyed that the topic should now be renewed, after it had to all appearance been so well disposed of — even the Minister himself seeming to be entirely satisfied with the arrangement. We therefore requested, that as the matter had been finally settled, no farther discussion should take place concerning it. Several of the inferior Mandarins, however, agreed in the opinion expressed by the Chief of Touran ; and the first determination of the Minister was evidently shaken ; and he ac- cordingly hiformed us, that the letters and papers which we saw sealed and placed in a casket upon the table before us, ready to be handed over, coidd not be delivered, as the presents were mentioned 2 K 2 420 EMBASSY TO SIAM in the letter, and it would be necessary to take the farther orders of His Majesty on the subject The Minister, and other Mandarin^ with the two French gentlemen, repaired immediately to the palace, to report what had taken place to the King, and we returned to our own residence, which we reached about five in the evening. The Minister displayed great good-humour and affii- bility during the whole conferencSe. He spoke familiarly of his own private afiairs. Four or five of his children stood beside him; and tlm led him to inform us, that he had in all fifty-four, thirty-six of whom were living in his house. During the entertainment he sat down to table with us, but did not eat. Not so the four infe- rior Mandarins, who did great justice to the feast. The Cochin Chinese, like the Chinese and Ja- panese, eat with chop-sticks, which, in point of delicacy, is not a whit better than the naked hand of other Asiatics. The bowl, in which the viands are contained, is applied to the very mouth, and the food dexterously tossed in, in immense quantities, and with a kind of beggarly scramblev as if tlie guest was fearful that any part of it should be snatched from him. Oct. 14. — For the last three days it rahied al- most incessantly. I never knew rain more heavy or more continual. The river overflowed its banks 8nd completely inundated the whole town. In '^k\f^ street before our fl^v^i ♦h<*»'^ wf^ro ^hree and AND COCHIN CHINA. 421 a half feet water, and boats were seen passing to and fro in it, as if it had been a regular canal. All the houses, with the exception of our own, which was raised upon a high terrace, were com- pletely flooded; and the inhabitants were com* pelled, for the security of their property, to deposit it in boats at their doors. For ourselves, we were driven into the interior and higher parts of our dwelling for shelter, there being at least four feet water in the low court-yard in front, and even the verandahs of the house being overflowil. At the same time there was a violent gale of wind from the N.E., so that our situation was extremely uncomfortable. For some days, indeed, we were completely insulated, and had no communication with the Government. The Mandarin of Touran, Ong-hep, called upon U8 in the morning, paying his visit in his barge, and landing at the street-door. He spoke much on the subject of our rejection of the King's pre- sents, and sought to excuse himself for the im^ pediment thrown in the way of the negociation, by his unseasonable interference at the last con* ference. While he was with us, a message came from the Minister, to inquire how we were after the inundation, and to inform us, that as soon as the waters had subsided, our business should be proceeded in. Oct 15. — The two Mandarins, assistants of the Minister, called upon us this forenoon unexpect- 422 KMBASSY TO SIAU cdty, and witliout giving us any notice of their visit. They came, they said, by order of the Minister, to inform us, that as we would not accept of the King\s presents for the Crovemor- general, His IVIajesty had thought proper to decline sending any answer to His Excellency's letter, but tliat the commercial document was ready to be delivered. To this I answered, that this depended solely upon His Majesty's plea- sure; — that if the letter was given, we would take charge of it ; and that if it was not given, we should make a faithful report of this, as of every other circumstance connected with the Mission, to the Governor-general of India on our return. They were sensibly disappointed at this rc])ly ; and after consulting with each other for some time, they put the question pointedly, whether we would be glad to have the letter or not. NVe answered, that we should be happy to take charge of any letter from the King, as a matter of course. They then finally explained that if we would accept of His Majesty's pre- sents for the Governor-general, the letter would be furnished ; but if this form, which was accord* ing to tlie custom of the Court of Cochin China, was not complied with, no written answer could be given. In reply to this, we stated distinctly in a few words, tliat we had delivered our deli- berate o])ini()n upon this subject on Saturday to J^*^ ^Minister, and had notlii^>g n^^ir i-n jmv Tt>r^' AND COCHIN CHINA. 423 ^We explained, that our principal business in coming here was to settle a friendly commercial relation between the two countries, and that this being adjusted, we were perfectly satisfied. On hearing this, the Mandarins proceeded to deliver the commercial dcicument. They finally asked when we wished to take our departure for Touran. We fixed on the 17th. They begged to know whether we would call to take leave of the Mi- nister. We agreed to do so to-morrow, and they departed. Oct 16. — We called on the Minister to-day, according to promise. Neither the French gen- tlemen nor any Cochin Chinese of rank, were pre- sent. Although the visit purported to be one of mere ceremony and civility, yet the Minister im- mediately entered upon business. He stated, that in consequence of our declining to take the King';s presents for the Gk)vemor-general of India, his Majesty could not answer the Gk)vemor's letter ; as, according to immemorial usage, such presents as were named in it, must indispensably accom- pany it. He then proceeded to explain, that the King had declined receiving the (Jovemor-gene- raFs presents only because the English had as yet gained no benefit by their intercourse; but that as soon as we had, he would accept of any presents which should be offered. We answered that we did not complain of the King's declining the Governor-general's presents, but that among 424 EMBASSY TO SIAM US it was customary not to receive presents where those tendered by ourselves were declined. He said, if we would accept of the presents, thej should be presented in the palace, with all due form ; and he stated, as an inducement to comply, that His Majesty would be present on the occa- sion in person. To this it was replied, that if His Majesty desired to send the presents to the "Governor-general, we would with pleasure convey them to Bengal, without, however, pledging our- selves to their being accepted. The Minister de- clined giving the presents on these terms. He next adverted to our commerce ; and said, that he hoped that every thing connected with this subject was settled to our satisfaction. He begged to assure us, that English ships visiting the ports of Cochin China would meet with every assistance that he could personally render them ; and requested tliat his respects might be offered to the British Governor-general with this mes- sage. We now told him of our anxiety to leave Hue to-morrow. He answered, that the boat in- tended to convey us the first day's journey would be ready at an early hour, with four palanquins for the remainder of the journey. During our interview, the permission to visit Faifo was confirmed; and we had also leave to visit the marble rocks or other ciu'iosities in the icinity of the Bay of Touran. The Minister Dau? iij polite att^nti^n thronghniit and prifprpd AND COCHIN CHINA. 425 into familiar conversation after our business was terminated. He told us with some exultation, that he had served three Kings of Cochin China. He was a great favourite of his late Majesty, whom he accompanied in his flight to Siam, through- out the desert islands on the eastern coast of the Gulf of that name, and, in short, through all his wars and peregrinations. With the present King^ although permitted to retain office, he is not a fa- vourite ; and this accounts readily enough for the junior Mandarins having taken it upon themselves to oppose his opinion* even in our presence, in the conference which took place on the 12th. He took leave of us with great kindness, and wished us an agreeable and prosperous voyage. During our visit, the females of the Minister'^ family, as they had also done upon the two for- mer occasions, crowded to the skreen, which was in front of us and behind the Chief, to gratify their curiosity. Here they laughed, and nodded« and beckoned in such a manner, as to give us but a very indifferent opinion of Cochin Chinese female modesty in high life ! All whom we saw were young, and two or three of them fair and prett)', after the manner of Cochin China beauties. Another incident, of which we were eye-wit- nesses, deserves to be mentioned, as highly illus- trative of Cochin Chinese manners and Cochin Chinese government. While we were entering the court-yard of the Minister's house, we saw a 426 EMBASSY TO SIAM company of comedians, who had been exhibiting, as upon the first occasion. It seems that they were not perfect in their parts, or at least that their ])erforinance did not satisfy the taste of the great man. They were accordingly undergoing, the universal panacea for all breaches of moral, social, and political obligation, — for all errors of omission or commission ; that is to say — the bam- boo. The first object that caught our attention was the hero of the piece lying prone on the ground, and receiving punishment in his full dramatic costume. The inferior characters, in due course, received their share also, as we after- wards ascertained from hearing their cries, while we sat with the Minister. This conference vir- tually tenninated the diplomatic intercourse of the Mission with the Cochin Chinese Court. AND COCHFN CHINA. 427 CHAPTER XL Departure from Hue. — Journey by land to Touran, and de- scription of the Route. — Cochin Chinese, Palanquin-bearers. — ^Arrival at Touran. — Presents for the Mission received. — Worship of Buddha. — Visit to the town of Faifo,-— Marble rocks and grottos. — Account of the town of Faifo. — Temples of Buddha. — Account of the country between Touran and Faifo. — Typhoon. — Departure from Touran for Singapore. — Description of Touran. —Land-birds met at Sea. — Anambaa Islands. — Arrival at Singapore. Oct 17.— Every thing having been arranged for our journey, we left Hud this morning at eight o'clock. The first part of our route was per- formed by water, and the Mandarin who had con* ducted us from Touran accompanied us with an escort of soldiers. Our whole party occupied an accommodation-boat and two galleys. After as- cending the river until we were opposite the citadel and palace, we sailed into a canal in a south-easterly direction. The appearance of the country here was strikingly beautiful and pic- turesque, and had more of the variety and in* terest of European landscape than of tropical see* 428 EMBASSY TO SIAM nery. After proceeding about a mile on this canal, we saw two or three excellent houses, sur- rounded by gardens and walls. The houses re- sembled large and spacious Indian bungalows. These habitations, were occupied by some of the princesses of the late King's family. Here the low hills, which approached dose to the river, were naked of wood, with the exception of one, which exhibited the unusual spectacle, in a tro- pical country, of a plantation of timber-trees. A little beyond the residence of the princesses now mentioned, and on the opposite bank of the canal, was seen the manufactory of bricks, from which the fort and other public works were supplied. This extended, I believe, for not less than a mile and a half along the canal. We had the curiosity to count the number of kilns, and found them to amount to 355 ! It took us four hours to pass through the canal, and, at the rate we were going, I suppose it to be about fourteen miles in extent. Thii was the work of the late King, now indeed highly useful to the agriculture and communi- cation of the country; but effected, we were told, at a vast expense of labour, and of life. During the first five miles, the canal is about twenty yards broad, and raised above the level of the surrounding country : it has a neat foot- pa^i on each side, and, at convenient intervals, flood-gates for inundating at pleasure the adja- ANb COCHIN CHINA. 429 cent lice-lands. The rest of the work is wide, irregular, on a level with the marsh through which it passes, and destitute of foot-paths. The whole of the lands through which the canal passes, are rice-grounds. After the recent heavy falls of rain, these were so completely inundated, that they had more the appearance of a vast lake, than of a country under culture. Boats were passing and repassing over the fields, and some persons even engaged in fishing where crops of grain would he reaped in a few months. The canal terminates by a narrow sluice, a great internal lake, or, more correctly, in a wide arm of the sea, with a very narrow neck. Either owing to the freshes, or the canal being elevated above the lake, there was^ a considerable fall and rush of water at the sluice, which made the passage a matter of some difficulty — and even danger, if a number of persons on. each side, armed with long poles, had not directed the boats as they passed through. It took us two hours, with smooth water, to row across the arm of the sea just referred to, the breadth of which appeared to be about seven miles. The entrance into this spacious bay from the sea is to the north-east, and, as already said, very narrow. We had no- ticed it as we proceeded by sea to Hu6, but had then no conception of the extent of the sheet of water into which it led. The depth of. this bay is no more than two fathoms throughout, and 430 KMUASSY TO SIAM therefore, as a place of shelter it is fitted only for small vessels. In the language of the coun- try it is called the bay of Mukgot At four in the afternoon, we reached the end of the stage, the village of Kao-hai. This is a large hamlet, situated in a fertile valley, between the foot of a chain of hills and the bay, and to the southern side of the latter. The valley is well cultivated, and, we were told, contains a thousand families. A pretty rivulet winds through it, which was full of boats. From the favour- ableness of its Situation, this valley gives two crops of rice a-year : one had just been reaped, and prepiuation was making for sowing the other- We had an excellent house to reside in, and every convenience that travellers in our situation liad a right to expect. Our place of accommo- dation was a sort of caravansera resembling others of the same description, found regularly at in- tervals of eight or ten miles, all the way from Saigun to tlie extreme Ihnit of Tonquin, where it borders on China. It was well raised upon a terrace, and was a hundred feet long, and half as broad. It consisted of one great hall, with a double row of pillars, having an elevated place at one end for the King's throne, and a large chamber at the other end for the security of pro- perty. It was substantially and excellently built. Oct. 18. — We left Kao-hai at six o'clock this morninff, and reached fh^ ^f^t rif ^l^p firQf rang*" AND COCHIN CHINA. 431 of hills in about an hour. After crossing this, which is narrow, and not above three hun- dred feet high, we entered an extensive valley. Travelling through this, until half-past eight o'clock, we halted at Nuk-mang, " the place of sweet water," a remarkably pretty and neat village. We breakfasted here, and resumed our journey at half-past eleven. Still traversing low ground for three quarters of an hour, we reached a second range of hills, of nearly the same elevation as the first: this terminated the valley, which ap- pears to be about nine miles broad. It is, gene- rally speaking, sandy, sterile, and in a state of nature ; but towards the hills, on both sides, the soil improves and is well cultivated. Here we saw reapers in the fields ; among them were many women. They used a sickle, as in Europe ; and their work was performed with something like the energy and vigour of European labour. As soon as we had reached the top of this second range of hills, a beautiful and unexpected view was presented to us. On one side was the val- ley which we had just quitted ; on another, the open sea ; on a third, high ranges of wooded moun- tains ; and before us, what we took at the time for a great internal lake, surrounded every where by 'Steep and wooded hills. This extensive piece of water proved, however, to be another arm of the sea. We skirted it along its eastern shore, passing a great deal of forest, but our journey 4:i2 EMBASSY TO SIAM being over a most excellent and well-finished road. In this part of our route in particular, and gene- rally indeed throughout the whole of it, we ob- served along the road many monuments of Cochin Chinese superstition, in the form of little temples, at which votive offerings were presented as well as occasionally on the pinnacles of rocks. These offerings consisted usually of little bits of gilded paper and similar trifles, and were most usual in wild and solitary spots, considered by the Cochin Chinese to be the natural dwellings of evil spirits. ^Vt one spot which we passed, on the summit of a hill, and in the depth of the forest, there was erected a post, having on it. a board^ on which was represented a hideous human face with an inscription underneath. Our native companions informed us that the writing was a sacred text, and that it and the ugly face were intended to frighten away an evil spirit of peculiar malignity which haunted this particular spot. They said, that when people travelled in numbers, or in fine weather, the evil genius in question was not to be apprehended ; but that he took advantage of solitar}'^ travellers, especially of women, and that he was most mischievous in storms and gloomy weather ! At two o'clock, we arrived at Hai-mung, the end of our stage. This was a considerable vil- lage on the sea-side, just at the entrance of the AND COCHIN CHINA. 433 bay already mentioned, and which, in the native language, is called Vungdam, or the harbour of Dam. It appeared to be about five miles across, in its broadest part, and seven or eight long. The depth of water in the middle is ten Cochin Chinese cubits, or almost fourteen feet English. The entrance is extremely narrow, I should think not above one hundred and twenty yards, and here there is only a depth of from seven to eight and a half feet. For a mile inland, the bay con- sists of a narrow gut or channel, which expands all at once to the breadth which I have just stated. A tremendous surge rolls in upon the beach or rocks towards the entrance of the bay on both sides, the narrow channel alone being free from danger. In the forests through which we passed in the course of this day's journey, we were informed that tigers and elephants were numerous. Of wild poultry (Phasianus CroUus) we saw several flocks. One of these, not far from a village, appeared so little shy that we at first imagined it con- sisted of domestic fowls, and hesitated to fire. In the winter, or cold season, innumerable flocks of ducks and other water-fowl are described as visiting Cochin China. These had not yet ar- rived, but we observed preparations making for insnaring them. These consisted of a number of artificial birds, intended for decoys. They VOL. I. 2 F 4S4 EMBASSY TO SIAM were so well imitated, that one of our party fired twice among a flock of them, mistaking them for real birds. This day^s journey was performed in palan- quins, of the fashion of the country. These ve- hicles consist of a net, hung from a single pole, and having a pent roof of very light materials. On each side, as well as behind and in front, there are curtains of wax doth. The weight of a good one is about thirty catties, or forty pounds, and of a small one, not more than half that amount. Two men, and no more, cany these vehicles, and four is the greatest number of bearers employed for persons of any weight, in- cluding the relief. In this employment, the Cochin Chinese exhibit a degree of strength, dexterity, and activity, of which I had not be- lieved them capable. They travel at a quick pace, and change the i)alanquin from shoulder to shoul- der, or relieve each other without even halting. Each of our sets of bearers carried us at least nine or ten miles. In every respect, I conceive them superior to Indian palanquin-bearers. They per- form the same work, at least equally well, with less than one half the numbers employed in Hin- dustan. This superiority is, in a good measure, owing to the greater lightness of the vehicle employed; but, I have no doubt, in some de- gree, also, to the superior physical strength of hlip T'^'^^hin Cbmese over the natives of Weston •I ;!■' li I i, M AND COCHIN CHINA. 4S5 India. We found the Cochin Chinese palanquin the most comfortable and least fatiguing vehicle in which we had ever travelled. Oct. 19. — We commenced our journey this morning at half past five, by crossing the narrow channel which forms the entrance of the bay. Immediately before us was the high range of mountains, which divides the bay of Vung-dam from that of Han or Touran. We immediately began to ascend, and when we had got to the elevation of four or five hundred feet, had a beautiful and extensive prospect of the bay which we had just left— of the open sea, and even of a portion of the bay of Nuk-got, which we had crossed in the first day's journey. Here was a temple to the Spirit of the Mountain, and on the altar some incense still burning, left by travellers who had gone on before us. Our course was now along the sea, but at a considerable elevation ovar it, while it was generaUy concealed from view by the thickness of the forest. The scenery now, and for the rest of the day, was bold and roman- tic. The forest was as tall and luxuriant as dose to the Equator itself, and the sound of brooks and waterfalls was perpetually murmuring in our ears- Two or three waterfalls were visible at a distance, one of which appeared to have a fall of about two hundred feet Its white foam made a fine contrast with the uniform verdure of the sur- roimding forest. The road was. frequently voy S F S 436 EMBASSY TO SIAM steep. All that labour could do to make it good, had indeed been tried, but this was not much among the vast masses of granite of which the mountain consisted, and where there was -scarcely an inch of soil, with which to form an even surface. Every step we took was from one block of granite to another, both in ascending and descending. The dearth of human inhabitants was ill made up by numerous herds of mon- keys. We saw no less than five herds of these animals while we were passing the mountain. These were all of the same species which we had seen at the bay of Touran, the Douc (or Simia nemoris)y in colour one of the handsomest of the Ape tribe. At the elevation, as we conjectured, of six or seven liundred feet, we observed for the first time the tea plant cultivated. The trees seemed to be little attended to, — were at least twelve feet high, and the leaves appeared large and coarse. At half past eight o'clock, we reach- ed the highest part of the mountain. The ther- mometer, which on the plain was the day be- fore, at the same hour 83% here sunk to 76% and the barometer showed that our elevation above the level of the sea, w^as about 1600 feet. The high road, however, lay over a comparatively low part of the range, some peaks of which appear- ed to be at least 4000 feet high. Near the high- est spot to which wp ^«p«nHeH was a neat vil- AND COCHIN CHINA. 437 of, what an European at l^ast would consider, a fine climate. In the shops refreshments, con- sisting of tea, rice, and other articles, were ready- laid out for travellers, of which we saw a good number in the course of this day's and yester- day's journey. These persons, among whom were women and children, travelled unarmed, and with- out guards, and apparently without apprehen- sion. This, at least, was a favourable sign of the vigilance and energy of the Government. As soon as we had reached the summit of the hill, we enjoyed a grand and extensive prospect, which exhibited at one view the bay and penin- sula of Touran, the bay of Faifo, and the mar- ble rocks which lie between them. The rest of our route was a rapid and not very easy descent to the western shore of the bay of Touran. This occupied an hour and a half. At ten o'clock we reached the little cove which I had visited on the 23d of September. Here we breakfasted, and embarking at twelve o'clock, after a beating passage against a strong sea-breeze, reached the ship at four o'clock in the afternoon, and had the happiness to join our friends and to find them all well. The geological formation of the country which we passed in this journey is entirely primitive. The extremity of a small ridge of hills, which terminates at the side of the river opposite the palace, we found upon examination to be quartz; 4S8 EBIBASSY TO 8IAM rock. Throughout the rest of our journey gra- nite, with occasional beds of horn-Uende rock» were the only formations which occurred. In the vicinity of the capital there seems to be more variety, for we found besides quartz and granite, specimens of mountain lime-stone, which we w«;« told had been brought from a distance of no more than ten or twelve miles. Oct. 20. — Early this morning the military Mandarin of Touran came on board to congra- tulate us upon our return, and to inform us that the presents from the King for the officers of the Mission were ready to be delivered, and that it would be necessary for us to go on shore to receive them. We agreed to do so, and landed at ten o'clock. We were formally received by the two Mandarins of the place, and by one of the assistants of the first Minister, who had come down from the capital for the express purpose of delivering the presents. The presents fur the Envoy consisted of a pair of elephant*s teeth, the horn of a rhinoceros, five catties of cinna- mon of the second quality, and five of the third quality. We were perfectly satisfied at being told that ill! was right; but the Mandarins in- sisted upon our opening every box separately, and examining the articles one by cMtie. The presents of provisions consisted of ten bullocks, -''n goats, ten hogs, one hundred ducks, one hun- ir*^ fowls, and one h^^^^drpd mil ^nr^ni^- mcF AND COCHIN CHINA. 439 sures of rice, amounting to about eight thousand pounds. The Mandarins, by way of demonstrat- ing to us that there was no foul play, would have us to examine these articles also in detail ; but this we positively declined. There is a pal- tryness and want of delicacy, or even decorum, in the conduct of these people, in matters of this nature, which is quite surprising. We presented the assistant of the Minister with a piece of broad doth and some British cottons. He had been little accustomed to a gift of this magnitude, and received it thankfully, but was very anxious that the circumstance should be kept strictly secret. Oct. 21. — ^A party from the ship ascended this morning the hill opposite to the anchoring, place. The whole peninsula of Touran is one long mountainous range of granite, the most ele- vated parts of which are about two thousand feet in height. On the brow of the hill, about a quarter of a mile up, we found a little temple of Buddha, the exterior of which was little better in appearance than a common hut. It contain- ed a sitting image of the god, and an erect one of one of his disciples. These were of porcelain, and were of a manufacture much superior to what might have been expected from the situa- tion they were in. We were afterwimls told that the late King had caused them to be brought \ from China, and placed here, in gratitude for his final triumph over the Taysons. The kings of 440 EMBASSY TO SIAM ^ Cochin China, however, are not of the Buddhist rcUgion ; but, I presume, that, like the ancient polytheists, they are inclined to honour every mode of worship followed by theh- subjects; hoping, no doubt, that this indiscriminate piety may sometimes prove profitable to them in a temporal point of view. Oct. 22. — While at Hu6, we had obtained leave to visit the town of Faifo. This place is one of the principal seats of Chinese com- merce, and for this reason we were anxious to be acquainted with it. Mr. Rutherford, Captain Brown, the commander of the ship, and myself, accordingly left Touran at five o'clock this morn- ing, in two boats, on our voyage to it. Touran and Faifo are connected with each other by a salt-water creek, or a natural canal, running all tlie way parallel to the shore, and separated from it by a range of sand-hills from a mile to a mile and a half broad. At nine o'clock we reached a singular group of rocks, situated on this narrow strip of land, — rising in a bold and picturesque manner from among the sand-hills, and altoge- ther unconnected with the nearest range of moun- tains, which I think cannot be less than fifteen or twenty miles distant. These rocks are six in number, of an oblong form, and all running in ^ direction nearly east and west. They rise from 'le sands almost perpendicularly. Wherever AKD COCHIN CHINA. 441 they are covered with a lujcuriant vegetation of arborescent plants. Most generally, however, they are quite naked. They consist of crystal- lized limestone, or marble, which has no regu-' lar appearance of stratification, but rises in per- pendicular columns, presenting at the summits a serrated appearance. We made a geometrical measurement of two of them with much care. The lowest of these was 212 feet from its base, and the highest 300. On the almost perpendi- cular face of the loftiest was seen a herd of small monkeys clambering up and down with as much sang-frmd as if they were upon the level ground. Another rock, and the most sin- gular of the group, appeared to us to be about fifty feet higher than this last ; but as it did not afford the same conveniences for measurement, we did not ascertain its exact height. We had been told that there were some caves in these rocks, containing images which were worshipped by the natives, but this circumstance was not noticed in such a manner as to excite in us much curiosity. We resolved, however, to see them, and were well rewarded for our trouble. They are contained in the highest and largest portion of the range which lies nearest the sea. We walked up a steep ascent of sand-hills, which covered the base of the rocks to a consideraWe height, and entered them by a rent or chasm, which forms a bold and striking approach. In- 442 EMBASSY TO 8IAM Side we were surprised to find some dwellings, surrounded by very neat gardens. A guide, whom we found here, led us to the principal cave. The approach to this was by a natural gallery in the rock, partly open and partly closed at top, 180 feet long. As we came near the termination of this, we had a view of the grotto itself, to which we descended by a flight of thirty seven artificial steps. The cave measures eighty- four feet in length, and seventy-two in breadth. The height appeared to be not less than eighty or ninety feet The top is a natural dome, with three or four wide rents in it, which let in a sufiiciency of light. The parasitical plants grow- ing without, struck down their shoots in various directions through these, and some even took root at the very bottom of the cave. The interior presented the appearance of rude natural columns, or rather pilasters, and in general had the vene- rable look of a Gothic ruin. The north-east side was occupied by a temple dedicated to the reli- gion of Buddha, a form of worship that, in theory at least, delights in the recesses of rocks, moun- tains, and forests. On the principal altar, there were two gilded figures of Buddha in the com- mon sitting attitude ; and near him, in stone, were two figures of his ministers or disciples. On another altar, to the right hand, was a gilt fe- timie figure, also in a sitting attitude. This, I -"i|i^"i.*,t, inay hav** been th^ tutplar^ rl^f^r of AND COCHIN CHINA. 443 the rocks. Two monstrous figures stood as war- ders at the entrance of the grotto, and two more in front of the temple of Buddha. Such figures as these seem never to be wantmg in Buddhist temples of any magnitude. From this grotto we were led to other parts of the same group of rocks. In one place we were conducted through a natural arched gate- way into a square enclosure, which seemed about one hundred and fifty feet in every direction, having perpendicular walls, not less than sieventy or eighty feet high. Opposite the gateway by which we entered this enclosure was a second gateway, from which we had a noble view of the sea, not above three hundred yards distant from us, — of the Chamcal4ao islands directly before us, and of the beach, lashed, at the time, by a loud surge. From this portion of the rocks we descended, and turning to the north-east, passed through some more gardens and habitations, and entered another fine cave, although inferior in size to the first. This was nearly open at top, but shaded by the foliage and branches of a number of fine trees growing over the rocks. One side of this cave was occupied by a temple, in which was a single female figure, similar to that in the first temple. This, we were informed by our conductors, was the divinity of the place, the protectress of the grotto. This temple, in opposition to the one 444 EMBASSY TO SIAM before mentioned, appeared to be Cochin Chi- nese, and to have no marks of Buddhism about it The neighbourhood of these rocks, although there is scarcely any thing to be seen but naked sand, is inhabited, and several villages lie imme- diately under the rocks themselves. The inha- bitants of these are principally fishermen, and a few of them seem to gain a livelihood-by making small culinary utensils out of the marble. This material is in some places white, in others streaked with a bluish vein, but more commonly it is of a grey or bluish colour. I am told that it is infe- rior to the marble of Tonquin, principally because, from the frequent fissures in it, it does not admit of being cut into blocks of sufficient magnitude. After breakfasting under shelter of one of the rocks, we set off for Faifo at one o'clock, and reached it at half-past ten at night. Oct, 23. — We spent this day, notwithstanding that it rained incessantly, in visiting every part of Faifo. This is almost entirely a Chinese establish- ment, being principally inhabited by that people or their descendants. It lies upon the west bank of the creek, or that farthest from the coast, and consists of a single street, about three quarters of a mile in length. Tlie whole permanent popula- tion was stated to us to amount to about five thousand. It contains six hundred Chinese fami- lies, and is the principal mart of the foreign onn- AND COCHIN CHINA. 445 merce of this part of the kingdom. Our visit was made in a very dull and uninteresting period ; but in the season of the junks it is a busy place, a kind of fair being held at it, at which, including the crews of the junks and the inhabitants them- selves, not less than ten thousand Chinese are alleged to be collected. Sugar and cinnamon are the great articles of exportation. The Chinese houses of Faifo are all built of otone and lime, and very neatly and substantially roofed with tile. That which we occupied might, with little arrangement, have been made a very comfortable residence. Faifo contains two hand- some Chinese temples, dedicated, we were told, to the Protectress of Commerce and Navigation. The principal of them was built, about a century ago, at the cost of a Chinese merchant, who brought from China the principal materials, and even the artisans who constructed it. In this temple we saw an immense iron vase, eight feet high, and in the broadest part about four feet in diameter. This also was the workmanship of China. It stood in front of the altar ; behind it was a fountain, in which fifteen or twenty small land tortoises were sporting. At Faifo also we saw the largest temple of Buddha which we had met with in Cochin China. There was a single gilded image of Buddha in it, behind which . was a painting probably representing one of his dis- V' 446 EMBASSY TO 6IAM dples. This last was remarkable for bdng exhi* bited in a crimson drapery, with a gold embroidery upon it. I may here remark, that all the figures of Buddha, which we saw in Cochin China, differed materially in appearance from the common re- presentations in Siam and Western India. The Cochin Chinese Buddha had Tartar or Chinese features, instead of Hindu, and a drapery thrown over both shoulders instead of one. It resembled the common Buddha in attitude, in the pendant ears, and in the mode in which the head is dress- ed. Some of these images were fabricated in ^ China. May not the Buddhist worship of the Chinese and Cochin Chinese be that of the first Buddha, received direct firom Tartary ? and may not the Buddhism of Siam and other western countries be the modification of it, introduced by the second or Indian Buddha, the Prince of Magadha or Bchar? This is a plausible suppo- sition, but not corroborated by any historical facts. On inquiry, we foimd, for the first time, that to the temple just alluded to there were priests attached. They were unluckily all absent, however, upon a pilgrimage to a place in the mountains, six or seven days' journey from Faifo. The following account of them was given to us, viz,, that they lived in a state of celibacy — that they did not destroy animal life, or even eat ani- mal food — that they wore a peculiar cap as a •^ Bad< note preio Coch featu over the I eaift ed. N.Chta Chin Budc not 1 count by tl Maga sition facts, that 1 ■ t ■ « ^1 AND COCHIN CHINA. 447 head-dress — that either yellow or red was the co- lour of their garments, and that the Buddhists of Cochm China burnt the dead bodies of their priests, but not of the laity. Faifo is not the capital of the province in which it is situated. The Governor resides at a fortified place, about six miles distant from it, called Fu-chi-am, and which is in consequence considered as the principal place. The whole province is called Cham, and extends to the range of mountains which borders the south-west side of the Bay of Touran. It is said to contain 50,000 inhabitants. Oct. 24. — ^We left Faifo this morning at six o'clock, and arrived at Touran at five in the evening. The north-east monsoon having re- gularly set in, and with considerable violence, we had some difficulty in making the ship, well shel- tered as that part of the Bay of Touran is, where she lay. Judging from the rate at which we tra- velled on our return, and the time our journey occupied, I ima^ne the whole distance from Faifo to Touran is about thirty-five miles. Faifo is however six or eight miles from the sea ; so that the whole length of the creek which connects the two places, cannot be less than forty miles. To- wards both extremities, with the exception of the sand-bars at the entrances, there are at least three fathoms water, and it is between two and three hundred yards broad. For a short way 448 EMBASSY TO SIAM however, towards the middle of its course, it contracts to a breadth of between twenty and thirty yards, and at high-water there are not here above two or three feet of depth. In gomg up, although wc had very flat boats, we were detam- ed for two hours at this part, and had to drag our boats over the shallowest portions. A consider- able number of boats were to be seen passing and repassing the creek, both sides of which, but particularly the land side, were well inhabited; and although the soil was uncommonly thin and scanty, every practicable spot was cultivated. There was evidently no want of industry among the people. The poverty of the soil was attempt- ed to be remedied by manuring it with a species of alga, or sea- weed, fished up from the bottom of the creek. In ploughing, we noticed that the same person held the plough and drove the cattle, an improvement which I have nowhere else seen in India. The corn too was neatly stacked, as in Europe ; and the villages altogether presented the same neat and clean appearance which had, in other parts of this country, attracted our notice. It was the fisheries however, and not the land, which had encouraged the people to settle on the banks of the creek. From Touran to Faifo, and, 1 suppose, through the rest of its course, the creek is filled, and indeed in some places almost choked up, with various contrivances for catching fish. The most considerable of these are a sort of ■ AND COCHIN CHINA. 449 stake-nets, consisting of a series of compartments, diminishing in size until they end in a small trap, where the fish is finally taken. A series of these snares is placed on each side of the river, opening in opposite directions, and leaving but a narrow; channel in the middle of the stream for boats to pass. In other situations, faggots of bamboo canes, with the branches on, were fixed in the middle of the creek, forming thick circular bushes, which allured thfe fish by the cool retreat they afforded. When the fish are to be taken, these bushes are surrounded by nets, and the prey scared out and taken. Another mode of fishing was practised here, and is frequent in all parts of the coast of Cochin China. It consisted of a net affixed to a long crane and lever, from the bow of a boat, which, by being well-balanced, was sunk and raised without difliculty. With this machine prawns and other small fish only were caught, its use being confined to shallow water. In other situations there were ponds on the banks of the creek for feeding and preserving fish, such as are common in some parts of Java, and in that coun- try extremely productive. The banks of the creek abounded with mews, coots, and other com- mon water-fowl, and with two large species of crane, of which we shot specimens. Oct 31. — On the twenty-seventh we were ready to sail, but about twelve o'clock of the night of the twenty-sixth, a heavy gale came on VOL. I. 2 G 450 EMBASSY TO SIAM from the nortli-east, accompanied with torrents of rain. This was a true Typhoon. The gafe did not abate until early yesterday morning, nor was there the least cessation of rain until twelve o'clock of the same day. In short, it rained heavily and incessantly for a period of eighty-two hours. We observed upon this occasion a phe- nomenon which I had never noticed any where before, nor indeed heard of. The quantity of rain was so great, that it covered the whole bay with a stratum of fresh water ; so that we filled our cask alongside the ship, with water good enough for the cattle and poultry. During the height of the gale, the harbour of Touran where we lay was quite undisturbed, and we expe- rienced no inconvenience whatever from the fury of the gale. At half-past twelve to-day we weighed anchor, and stood on our course to Singapore, on our re- turn to Bengal ; our long detention at Siam hav- ing brought the season unluckily to so advanced a period, as to render it impossible for us to fol- low the route of the Phillippines and Dampier's Straits, according to our first intentions. Com- l)linientary messages passed between us and the Mandarins of Touran before parting. The bay of Touran, or more correctly the bay of Han, may be described in a few words. It is of great extent, but this, instead of being an ad- vantage, is its principal defect. Its entrance is AND COCHIN CHINA. 451 to the north, between a high island to the right, and the high land of the extremity of the penin- sula of Han to the left. This channel cannot be less than five miles broad : from the entrance to the bottom of the bay at the village of Touran, the distance is not less than twelve miles. Across the bay, from east to west, the breadth is at least eight miles. To the east, the bay is formed by the high land of the peninsula of Han ; and to the west, by a range of mountains still higher. The south and south-east sides alone are formed by low sandy land. The anchorage notwith- standing the great size of the bay is but of mo- derate extent. It lies to the north-east angles within a few hundred yards of the high land of the peninsula; and behind a small promontory, off which there is a stony islet. In sailing in, the best anchorage is determined as soon as the entrance of the bay is closed in. To the southern side, the extent of the harbour is limited by a low flat sand coming out from the entrance of the creek. Upon the whole, it is not above a mile and a half in extent in any direction, notwith- standing the spaciousness of the bay itself. Every other part of the bay except the small cove where the village is situated, which forms the last stage from Hu^, is just as exposed as the open sea, and upon the western coast especially, a formi- dable surf always prevails, which renders landing both difficult and dangerous, even in the finest 2 6 2 452 EMBASSY TO SIAM • weather. We left the ship one morning when it was perfectly calm, and after a long continuance of fine weather, with an intention of exploring this part of the bay ; but found the swell and the surf running so high, that we dared not attempt to land, although we approached within a few yards of the shore. Nov. 2. — The wind with which we were beat- ing out of the bay of Touran on the 3 1st, hav- ing failed us on the same evening, we were compelled to come to an anchor, but at twelve o'clock at night a strong breeze having sprung up from the north-west, which soon increased to a fresh gale, we made sail. At noon, on the 1st of November, we were in the latitude of 15^ 18' North, and to-day, assisted by the same favour- able wind, and by a strong current setting with the monsoon, we ran the extraordinary distance of two himdred and forty-nine miles of latitude, and found ourselves, by our meridian observation, in 11° 9'. At sunset we were in sight of Pule Sapata, one of the three islands, or rather rocks, called The Cat wicks, and which are considered by navigators the southern limit of hurricanes or Typhoons. Pulo Sapata, the second of the same name mentioned in this journal, is a bare inac- cessible rock, visible thirty miles off from a ship's «pck, and is the undisturbed habitation of thou- sands nf sea-fowL W*^ were to-day, fr^r the first AND COCHIN CHINA. 453 time for near nine months, in the ordinary track of European navigation. Nov. 6. — ^We lost the regular monsoon on the 2d, and ever since had nothing but light airs and calms, the season being too early for the set- ting in of the regular periodical wind so far to the south. At noon to-day, our latitude was 5^ IS', and our longitude 106° 3'. At daylight two European sail were in sight, the first we had seen for near nine months. In the course of the day we spoke the American brig Comet, of Salem, direct from Canton, but obtained no news from her. The other vessel had the appearance of a British ship bound for India. Within the last few days, although distant at least two hun« dred miles from any land, we were accompanied by an extraordinary number of land-birds, such as swallows, yellow-hammers, and hawks. Of all these we caught specimens, as they lay asleep on the rigging, exhausted by fatigue. Of hawks, we caught in this manner no less than six of two species. These animals, notwithstanding the precarious situation they were in, hunted the smaller birds, and caught them in our presence as coolly as if they were in their native woods and hills. It is remarkable, that at the same time we did not see any water-fowl, with the exception of a single pelican. Nov. 7. — The group of islands called the Anam- 454 EMBASSY TQ 8IAH bas, being little out of our course, and imperfectly known, we considered that a visit to them would prove of some interest, and accordingly stood down for tlieni in the course of yesterday, Early this morning they were in sight, appearing more nu- merous and more extensive than they are repre- sented in the common charts. By noon we were close to one of the most northern group, when our latitude was S"" 26' North, and our longitude by chronometer, 105** 5& East. At five in the evening we were within 300 yards of a small island; and the wind being then unfavourable, we would haVe anchored for the night, but there was no ground in less than thirty-seven fathoms. As we passed tlie eastern side of this island, a little siindy cove was opposite to us, immediately above the beach of which, but in no other part of the island, was a grove of old cocoa-nut trees. There was no sign of dwellings, but it is proba- ble, from the appearance of the cocoa-nut trees, that the phice was once inhabited ; yet the island is extremely small and steep, and the bay could have afforded no shelter for fishermen or their boats in the north-east monsoon. Upon this iK'ach the surf ran so high, although it had the appearance of being sheltered, that we were unable to effect a landing. The rock formation appeared to be sand-stone. \^ov. 9. — During the night of the 7th we lay AND COCHIN CHINA. 455 from the great depth of water. In the mom- ing we found ourselves in an extensive basin, closed in on all sides, except the north and north- west, by groups and chains of islands. During the day we endeavoured to reach a long chain which lay to the west of us, and which from appearance promised to contain what we were most anxious to find — a secure harbour. Con- trary and baf&ing winds, and a heavy swell, made it however impossible for us to reach it, and we came to an anchor at night in thirty-two fathoms. This morning the same unfavourable weather still ontinued, and our time admitting of no longer delay, we were reluctantly compelled to quit the slands, without making those inquiries which we were so anxious about, and we made sail, con- tinuing our route towards the Straits of Singa* pore. The islands, called by European navigators the Anambas, a name not known to the Malays of the country, are properly called by the various names of Siantan, Jamajah, and Sarasan, which make the northern, middle, and southern Anam- bas of our charts. They are, in aU, about fifty in number, and form, along with the other islands between the Malay peninsula and Borneo, from the longitude of 104^ to 110^ East, dependencies of the principality of Jehor. They are generally hilly and sterile, and inhabited by true Malays, always poor, and commonly inoflfensive. These 456 EMBASSY TO SIAM people cultivate a little mountain rice and maize, cocoa-nuts, and sago ; and their shores afford the tripang, or holothurion. The population of the Anambas Islands is said to amount to fifteen hundred. They carry on a traffic with the Straits of Malacca, which has considerably increased since the establishment of the new settlement of Sin- gapore. \ov. 13. — Ever since we left the Anambas, we encounteree Rachado. This is a promontory, rising boldly from the sea to the height of one hun- dred and fifty feet. Its geological formation is quartz rock, interspersed with frequent veins of clay iron -ore. It appears to be the extre- mity of a ramification of the great chain of pri- mitive mountains, which runs thus far through- out the whole Malayan peninsula. Beyond it, and all the way down to Point Romania, there are detached hills, but no continuous range of high mountains. A rapid current passes Cape Rachado, occasioning a swell of the sea even during a calm, as was the case when we now 'dsited it. On each side of the Cape there is a ^andy cove. We landed on that to the N.W., AND COCHIN CHINA. 459 Here, as every where else, we added many no^ velties to our botanical collection. Nov. 29. — The island of Binding or Pangkui* having proved in our outward voyage so rich a field for botany, we were induced to touch at it last night for a few hours. A party landed near the ruins of the Dutch fort, and was very suc- cessful in obtaining specimens of living plants for the Botanical Garden at ' Calcutta. Among others, we procured several fine ones of the splendid epidendron, which Mr. Finlayson had discovered in our former visit. Dec. 2. — This morning we anchored in the harbour of Penang, having come in by the south- em channel. After breakfast we landed, and at the delightful mansion of the Governor, Mr. Phillips, were received with tlie same hospi- tality and kindness as on our first visit, just one year before. Dec. 5. — I paid a visit this morning, at the suggestion of the Governor, to the Raja of Queda, accompanied by the Secretary, Mr. Cracroft. This chief was an old acquaintance : I had paid him a visit at Queda in the year 1810. At that time he was a young man of little more than thirty, of goodly appearance, and extremely fair for a Malay. He was now very much changed, indeed, and although only forty-two or forty-three, had the appearance of sixty. His manners, like those of all Malays of rank, and generally, indeed, like 460 EMBASSY TO SIAM those of the whole race, were soft, pleasing, and unassuming. I had the mortification of being the channel of communicating to him the result of my unsuccessful efforts at Siam in his behalf. He received my statement with composure, and said that, witli the assistance of his friends, the Princes of Perak, Salangor, and Siak, he would make an effort to recover his country ; which, after laying it waste, and driving the population into exile, the Siamese themselves had now in a great measure abandoned. Dec. 8.— Having communicated with the Go- vennnent of I'rince of Wales's Island respecting the result of my Mission to Siam, and afforded every necessary explanation, we embarked this morning for Bengal, and at eleven o'clock quitted the harbour. Besides a great quantity of dried specimens of plants, we brought with us from Pcnang for the Botanical Garden at Calcutta, fourteen large boxes of living plants. Dec. 10.— The coast of Queda, between Pe- nang and Junk-Ceylon, is fronted by numerous islands of various sizes. The principal of these arc tlie I^adas which mean the Pepper Islands, I^ang-kawi, Trutao, and Butong. Yesterday morning wc were within two miles of the most southern, or I^ada Islands. Between these is a fine harlK)ur, very conveniently situated for the »nminon track of navigation, This is called, bv AND COCHIN CHINA. 461 withstanding the deceitful appearance of its lux- uriant forests, so apt to mislead an European stranger, appears so steep, so rugged, and so inhospitable, that it is difficult to imagine it capable of being converted to any useful pur- pose in the present state of society in these re- gions. Lang-kawi is the largest island of the group, and is said to contain from four to five thousand inhabitants, all Malays. This popula- tion is situated upon the eastern or sheltered side of the island, opposite to the main-land. During our absence, the Siamese invaded the island, and took possession of it. In conse- quence of this, a great number of the inhabi- tants fled to Prince of Wales's Island. From these, and other refugees from the Queda ter- ritory, the Government of Penang has establish- ed a colony on the narrow strip of land which we hold upon the Peninsula, and which, at the period of our visit, already amounted to nine thousand persons. It may here be worth mentioning, that Lang-kawi, an island now so little frequented, was visited in 1672 by Com- modore Beaulieu, the sensible and intelligent Frenchman who conducted the first adventure of his nation to the Indies. It was then ce- lebrated for its production of pepper, a com- modity which it now affords in too incon- siderable a quantity even to deserve mention. Trutao^ commonly called by us Trotto, is scan- 462 EMBASSY TO SIAM tily inhabited by a peculiar race, who have the physical appearance of the Malays, speak a dialect of the same language, but have not yet adopted the Mahometan religion. They are strictly fish- ermen, living as much as possible on a fish diet, and almost entirely neglecting the cultivation of a soil, which indeed appears to oflfer them little temptation. They are called, by the Ma- lays, Orang Laut, or Men of the Sea ; the same denomination by which the fishermen of the op- posite extremity of the Straits of Malacca are also known, and which indeed is frequently ap- plied to races of similar habits in other parts of the Archipelago. Dec. 12, — To-day we passed along the coast of the Island of Junk-Ceylon, called by the Siamese Talang. The Malays, who, from the narrow- ness of the strait, which divides it from the con- tinent, can hardly be induced to consider it an island, have corrupted it into Ujung Salang, which means the point or cape of Salang, which our mariners, and after them our geographical writers, have converted, with no small violence to orthogra- phy, into its present name. Wc were again, there- fore, in the vicinity of our friends the Siamese, for this island belongs to Siam, and its native inhabitants are the Siamese race. Geographically, it runs in a direction nearly north and south, between the latitudes of 7^ 46' and 8° 9', and in ■lip longitivle of 98^ ^0'. T^ '*' t'l'^ntv-f'^iir rtsWt^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 468 long, and about nine miles broad. On the west- em side it presents a mountainous, bold, woody, and uncultivated aspect. The eastern side, lying opposite to the large island of Pulo Panjang, is the cultivated and inhabited portion, and con- tains several bays or harbours, the most consi- derable one of which is about four leagues from the south-east extremity. This last is a good harbour, and the principal town or village of the island, called Teroa, is situated about a mile and a half up a small river which falls into it. Junk- Ceylon is divided from the main land by the Straits of Papra, about fifteen miles in length. The eastern extremity of these straits forms a good harbour. The mountains of Junk-Ceylon are granitic, and it is highly probable, therefore, that the soil is scanty and far from being fertile. It abounds, however, in tin, and is probably, next to Banca, the most productive country in the < East, in th^ metal. In the year 1787, according to the de- scription of Mr. Francis Light, the first Grovemor of Prince of Wales's Island, the whole produce of the island amounted to four thousand piculs of tin, or to two hundred and thirty-eight tons. I have no means of ascertaining its present produce* Mr. Light also gives a description of the process of mining, from which it appears that the ore is found in a situation exactiy similar to that of Banca, viz. in alluvial soil, at from ten to thirty 4(54 EMBASSY TO SIAM feet below the surface, and often dose to the sea- side. Tlie stratum of ore is, as in that island, mixed with fragments of granite and quartz, and as there too, always lies upon a bed of white friable day. From this statement, there can be little doubt of the fertility of the mines. The account which Mr. I^ight gives of the economy of the mines, and of the process of working them, shows that they are wretchedly managed, com- pared even with those of Banca ; a matter easily accounted for, since the first are under the direc- tion of the Siamese, and the latter managed by the intelligent and industrious Chinese. ^ During the last fifty years, Junk-Ceylon has been a freiiueiit bone of contention between the Siamese and Burmans. In 1810, the Burmans invaded and captured it with a very large force; but in the course of a few months, they were compelled to surrender to the Siamese at dis- cretion, to the number of 4,000. The chiefs, on this occasion, were all beheaded, and the lower classes carried into captivity. We saw a few of the survivors working in chains in Siam when we were tliere. Dec. 16. — In the latitude of Junk-Ceylon, and up to the Seyer Islands, we had variable winds and a good deal of rain. On the evening of the 13 th, we passed between the latter islands a^d the main-land. We then got the regular i..rfh-east mons'^on, which is a f^ir wind be- AND COCHIN CHINA. 465 tween the Straits of Malacca and Bengal, both going and coming ; and towards the east side of the Bay always brings with it, during the months of December, January, and February, serene and delightfal weather, such as we now experienced. Last night, we passed the Island of Narcondam at no great distance ; this morning, the Cocos, and in the evening the Preparis. The Cocos are two small woody islands which form a portion of the Andaman chain, being connected with them by soundings of no great depth. They take their name from a few cocoa-nut trees seen upon the beach, but they are uninhabited. JDec. 29.— From the 16th to the 27th we had fine weather, but light and baffling winds. On the latter day we received a pilot. On the 28th, having reached the Island of Saugor, I embarked for expedition in a native boat, and, rowing all night, reached Calcutta on the afternoon of the 29th, after an absence from that place of above thirteen months. On the same day, I made my report to the Marquess of Hastings, whom I found on the point of sailing for England. His Lordship was pleased to approve of the discre- tioii with which, under many difficult and em- barrassing circumstances, the affairs of the Mis- sion had been conducted ; and I had afterwards the honour of receiving the official approbation of his immediate successor, my amiable and la. men ted friend the late Mr. Acland, vol.. I. 2 H 466 EMBASSY TO 8IAM Before bringing this narrative to a dose^ it will be necessary briefly to advert to the subse- quent circumstances of our connexion with Siam and Cochin China, chiefly in so far as they relate to the Mission. We left on our departure from Siam the British trading-vessel akeady mentioned at that place. Her commander and supercargo^ very discreet and respectable men, had presented to the King upon their arrival an Indian horse of no great value, and chiefly selected on their part on account of his colour, which was white. The King had accepted the offering, and kept the horse for several months ; but pretending to disco- ver that he had unlucky marks, and in reality find- ing that he was much inferior in value to the horse presented by the GJovemor-general, he was un- ceremoniously returned just as the ship was on the point of sailing. The vessel was small, deeply laden» and had, on her return, to beat against the monsoon. It was, therefore, impossible to accom- modate the animal, and it was resolved to destroy him. Very imprudently, and in ignorance of the religious prejudices of the Siamese, this was done publicly, and without any precaution. The offi- cers of the Siamese Government took high of- fence, and resolved to punish the authors of the alleged sacrilege. They had not, however, the courage to venture upon this step publicly, and therefore, under a false pretext, seduced the com- mander and supercargo to the house of the Prince AND COCHIN CHINA. 467 Krom-Chiat. Here they were beset by hundreds of persons, jostled, thrown down,- brutally beaten, put in irons, imprisoned four days, and, finally, compelled to sign an unqualified apology, written in the Siamese language, not one word of which they either understood, or was explained to them. The Siamese Government, however, had some misgivings of the prudence of this proceeding, and thought it necessary to address an apologetic letter to the Governor-general^ in which the con- duct of the commander and supercargo was, with a good deal of address, represented in aggravated and false colours. The Prah-klang, the writer of this letter, insisted that the crime of killing a horse was worthy of death, and that had it been committed by a native of the country, it would inevitably have been followed by that punish- ment. The letter of the Prah-klang also contained accusations against the officers of the Mission and other persons connected with it. The matter of these, notwithstanding the precautions taken to disarm the jealousy of the Gk)vemment, chiefly referred to the inquiries which we had made re- specting the geography and statistics of the coun- try, few and guarded as these were. Our inter- preters in the Malay and Siamese languages not being wanted for the remainder of our voyage, had, at their own request, when we jMxxseeded to Cochin China, been left at Siam, with the view 468 EMBASSY TO SIAM of enabling them, by an overland journey, to return tlie sooner home. These persons, it was pretended by the Siamese Government, had given the most unfavourable representation of the objects of the Mission. Extracts of the letter of the Prah- klang will be found in the Appendix, as well as the reply made to it by the Governor-general. I>ur]ng the period that I was Resident at Sin- gapore, as Agent to the Governor-general for Siam, Cochin China, &c. I carried on a frequent and friendly correspondence with this same Frah- klang, whom I found, as during my residence in Siam, a shrewd, wary, and very mercenary per- sonage. He, as well as the other officers of the Court, traded extensively with Singapore, and it would have been impossible to gather from his conduct or correspondence that he had ever expressed a sinister opinion, either of our policy or commerce. After the l>reaking out of the Burmese war, a second mission was sent by the Governor- general, the object of which was to gain the assistance of the Siamese, and to improve our coiTiniercial relations. The first object might have been gained by giving up to the Siamese our conquests on the coast of Tenaserim; but this was a measure which could not be taken without compromising our honour; for it was discovered, on the occupaticHi of the country in question, that the inhabitants, either themselves AND COCHIN CHINA. 469 Burmese, or long reconciled to the Gk>vemment of Ava, bore a rancorous hatred to the Siamese, which would have made their surrender to this power, on any terms, a measure of cruelty and discredit. The Siamese sent armies into the field, and showed a disposition to cooperate with us, but when they found there was nothing sub- stantial to be gained, they withdrew, and stood nieuter, making warm professions of friendship to both the belligerent parties, but obviously more apprehensive of us, in the long run, than of their hereditary and inveterate enemy, the Burmese. In a commercial point of view, the result of the last mission Was a consolidation, without any reduction of the duties and charges. This, has been accompanied by no beneficial results, nor is it likely to be. In consequence of the ex- pectation of extending British commerce with Siam by a direct intercourse, some intelligent, enterprising, and extensive efforts were made with this view by the merchants of Singapore, backed by the capital of London and Liver- pool. They may be said, however, to have to- tally failed, and one establishment, after an ex- perience of two or three years' actual residence, has recently, and since the date of the last treaty, abandoned the undertaking as hopeless. In fact, the residence of English merchants, owing to the political fears of the Siamiese, is extremely 470 EMBASSY TO SIAM repugnant to the wishes of the Gk>vemment of the oountry, while the free and independent con- duct of our countrymen is so incompatible with the servility and obsequiousness which is looked for, not only from natives but from strangers, that it must, of necessity, prove repulsive and offensive to the pride and prejudices of the Siam- ese chiefs. To these obstacles to the establish- ment of a free trade on our part, must be add- ed the strong motive to counteract it which exists in the personal interests of the chief offi- cers, who now enjoy a monopoly of lucrative privileges, which any approach to free trade would impair or destroy. One object of the last Mission was the resto- ration of the Prince of Queda to his throne, and the emancipation of the Malayan tributaries of Siam from its thraldom. These objects were not only not attained, but we bound ourselves by the stipulations of a treaty from all future interference. As a specimen of the political sa- gacity and shrewdness of the Siamese Court, I give in the Appendix its reply to the memo- rial of the Envoy, adding my conviction that tlie conduct of this officer throughout was not only able but higlily prudent and discreet. With respect to Cochin China, I have but few .^^servations to make. The repeated professions If vliP foreign minister, a? ^'^H »» ^^ ^he Go- -»i'ipi •( AND COCHIN CHINA, 471 and assistance to such British merchants as might frequent the country, induced me, not lolag after I took charge of Singapore, to furnish the su- percargo of a British merchant^ship proceeding to Hue and Saigun, with letters of introduction. The Governor of Kamboja received the letter, ad- dressed to him, with great civility and replied to it, and a friendly correspondence ensued. The recepti(Mi of my letter to the foreign minister was very different. The bearer of it was decla- red to have violated the laws of the Empire m bringing a letter from a stranger, and, in fact, to have committed such an offence as, with a native of the country, would have entitled him to capital punishment. This however, it must be added, amounted only to a threat or insinu- ation, for no violence was offered to himself, or real impediment thrown in the way of his bu- siness. 1 shall conclude with a few remarks upon the most expedient and suitable manner of main* taining our future political and commercial re- lations with the Courts of Siam and Cochin China. With the strong excitement which our conquests in Hindostan has produced, probably the most prudent, if not the most profitable, mode of conducting our trade will be through the channel of the Chinese junks. This is an inter- course which, as it offers no offence to their manners or political prejudices, they are not less 472 EIJBASSY TO SIAM anxious to promote than ourselves. In reality, it not only increases in amount from year to year, but considerable improvements have taken place even in the mode of conducting it, which pro- mise to render it in no long time equally exten- sive and advantageous. Our political relations with the Siamese must from their nature, be left to the management of the Governor-general of India, whether our ter- ritorial acquisitions be under the direct adminis- tration of the crown, or the delegated one of the East India Company. The necessity for this arises from the recent extension of the British as well as Siamese dominions, an extension through which we have become immediate neighbours, and which consequently brings the Siamese with- in the pale of our Indian diplomacy. The de- tails of our diplomatic intercourse in this quarter may, with propriety and convenience, be en- trusted to the local officers on the British fron- tier; and it appears to me that either an envoy, or a resident agent at the court of Siam, will not only, in general, be unnecessary, but even a source of jealousy and irritation. The sea on one quarter, and impracticable mountains and forests on another, are barriers which, together with the fears and discretion of the Siamese f^overnment, will in all likelihood preserve ^^ inuar at peace with thiF '^eopl** Ait'^ther ^no. *M*t- - ill fpnd ^O th^ «i-Jip- -rf<>f-. '•■i-^ro ,, ^ AND COCHIN CHINA. 473 territorial acquisition which we could make from them, with the exception, perhaps, of a good port among the islands at the upper end of the gulf of Siam, which would not prove both use- less and burthensome. The circumstances of the Cochin Chinese are very different; they are not our immediate neigh- bours, but far removed from the sphere of our Indian politics. The cautious and prudent fo- reign policy of this people is sufficiently shown by the history of their relations with China and with France, as well as by that of our own and of the recent Burmese Missions. They have no- thing to apprehend from us, nor do I conceive that our Indian power can ever have any thing to apprehend from them. The fears entertained by our Government, at one period, always exag- gerated, arose from the existence of a French par- ty in Cochin China. This party is now extinct ; and I have no doubt, in the present state of the Government of that country, that its prudence is such that it would maintain a strict neutra- lity in the event of future hostilities between us and France. Another revolution in Cochin China, and the formation of another French party, which would very probably follow it, would be the only event likely to prove inconvenient to us. The numerous and fine harbours of Cochin China might in such a case prove safe and con- venient retreats, from which a French navy VOL, I. 2 I 474 EMBASSY TO SIAM might harass or destroy our commerce with « China. But this evil might be readily averted, and the Cochin Chinese Government reduced to almost any terms, by the easy and practica- ble blockade of two or three of the principal ports from which the capital and other portions of the kingdom derive their food and other re- sources. As to any formidable danger to our Indian Empire from so poor a country as Cochin China, with its scanty and unwarlike population, even if the whole kingdom were a province of France, I conceive it to be quite visionary ; for what could be the resources of such a country, in comparison with our extensive, productive, and j)opulous territorial acquisitions in Hindos- tan, long, pennanently and regularly organized ? The reluctance of the Cochin Chinese Govern- ment to maintain any diplomatic intercourse with the delegated Government of India, was suffi- ciently displayed in the history of our own Mis- sion, as well as in that which preceded it; nor do I see any advantage, but the contrary, in at- tempting to persevere in it. It is another seri- ous objection, that all the acts of the Indian Go- vernment are at once associated in the minds of the Cochin Chinese with our territorial ag^n'an- disement. A direct intercourse with the C'-imi has not this disadvantage ; and, as it v^nl'^ ^^»>- ciliate and flatter the Court of Corhi- ^:rnM>, •nid thus tend to extend and imi^^^j^rr ---.r AND COCHIN CHINA. 475 mercial relations, it ought, I think, occasionally to be cultivated. In the present state of that country we have nothing to ask, and the in- tercourse therefore would be purely complimen- tary. The delivery of a letter, and a trifling present from the King, will require no extraor- dinary selection of diplomatic talents. An intel- ligent and prudent commander of one of His Majesty's ships on the Indian station, would be both the fittest and the cheapest ambassador to employ on such an occasion. Two or three of his officers, and a few marines, would form an appropriate suite, sufficient to ensure respect and attention; and the only extra assistance neces- sary, would be a Chinese interpreter understand- ^ ing the English language, always readily obtain- ed at Singapore, or Prince of Wales's Island, both of which lie in the route to Cochin China. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. lovdok: rKIWrBO BY SAMUEL BBWTLBY, l>oi»etSir«rt, Fleet Street. •:i « r 1 ■ ..:! I . • I •# \ M 1 I/' Thi* book staould b« returned to I ths Library on or before the last date | aiamptd below. I A fine ■*- incurred by retaining it I beydnd th ' ■ THE BORflOWER WIL I nc NOTICES DOES Nn^ i"' °'< Please J£2li02l 147 2™ ^ ^umrd S/eniy cStrotfel I lAin^l) COLLEGE LIBfi