Full text of "Federated Malay States Railways : pamphlet of information for travellers : tours in the Malay Peninsula"

CORNELL UNlVEiOJiTY

LIBRARIES

ITHACA, N. y. 14853

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JOHN M, OUN LIBRARY^

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pEDERflTED

MALAY

ST3TES RfllLWflYS

PEMANG

SINGAPORE^

HOURS

SINGAPORE,-

, ^^_ ^ TO ^^NJ

p. A. ANTHONY,
GENERAL MAIN/IGER
FEDERATED M/flMY STATES RfllLW/lYSl

KUflLfl LUMPUR

MAiar PENINSULA

-\t.

EITISH

PALAfA.

Equable 'tropical Qlimate.

c^agnificent Scenery.

Big Game Shooting.

Snipe Shooting, best in the World.

Great Tin Mines.

Good Hotels.

Rubber Estates.

Summer Seas.

Government Railway.

Excellent Steamship Services.

Coconut Plantations

Chinese Temples.

Fine Roads for Motoring over 2,000 miles.

Winter Resort for Travellers.

For Maps, Time Tables and Illustrated Guide to the F- M. S. apply to—

" General Manager for Railways,"

KUALA LUMPUR ;

The Malay States Information Agency, 88 Cannon Street, London, E.G. :

Thos. Gook & Sons, Ludgate GIrcus. London, E.G.

■^

1^1 LWAYS .

Pamphlet of Information
for Travellers.

Jours in the jYCalay Peninsula

19 14.

4^ !J^

Federated IDalay States Railioays.

THE STATION HOTEL,

KUALA LUMPUR. i^yf.,^^

Electric Light and Fans.

High-class Restaurant adjoining.
>ioderate and fixed tariff.

Accommodation can be secured by Telegram, free of charge, on application to the Station
Master at any Station on the Federated Malay States Railway System.

For Tariff and other Particulars, apply to the

Traffic Manager,

F. M. S. RAILWAYS,

KUALA LUMPUR.

THE STATION HOTEL, IPOH,

will be Opened in 1914.

10 ^

^ ^

Fedcnated malay States Railioays,

Tzventy-four hours through Railway Service from PEN AN G to
SINGAPORE, or vice versa, 472 miles.

DAILY.

Penang . _ . -

Ipoh - - - -

Kuala Lumpur - - -

Seremban . . .

Singapore — Tank Road -

dcp. 8.00 a.m.

an. LI 3 p.m.

an. 6.23 p.m.

dep. 8.30 p.m.

dep. 10.30 p.m.

an. 8.16 a.m.

DAILY.

Singapore — Tank Road -

Seremban - - - -

Kuala Lumpur -

Kuala Lumpur - - -

Ipoh - - - - -

Penang _ . . -

dep. 7.15 p.m.

an. 5.6 a.m.

an. 6.56 a.m.

dep. 8.00 a.m.

an. 1 .00 p.m.

an. 6.21 p.m.

Verify Times of Defiarture.

Restaurant and Sleeping Cars, lighted by Electricity, on both Trains.

Through First Class Fare |25.65 Straits {£2 19s. lOd., 814.18 American). English sovereigns accepted at §8.57 Straits

at the Stations.

Motor cars can run through from Penang to Malacca or vice versa (not Singapore) on excellent roads, or cars
can be railed to any point or shipped to any Port. Malacca is 358 miles from Penang by road.

Railway Time Tables on Sale at all Booking Offices, price 10 cents.

:<^

■^

Vocabulary.

Vowels are pronounced as in Italian, consonants as in English.

What is your name ?
Apa nama ?

The station (railway) is where ?
Station (kreta api) mana ?

This is how much ?
Ini brapa ?

Go to the Hotel Raffles, Europe.
Pergi Hotel Raffles, Europe.

rikisha.

kreta hongkong.

Call
Panggil

Call a gharry.
Panggil kreta kuda

Turn to the right.
Kanan.

Turn to the left.
Kiri.

Straight on.
Betul.

Luggage.
Barang.

Very expensive,
Banyiak mahal.

Give it cheaper.
Kasih murah.

Yes.
lya.

No.
Tidah.

Bring.
Bawa.

Go away.
Pergi.

Go slowly.
Jalan plan.

Go quickly.
Jalan lekas.

ready yet.
siap lagi.

My price, highest, is dollars.

Herga mati ringgit.

Clean this. Call

Chuchi ini. Panggil

Call the washermaa to wash my clothes,
Panggil dhobi chuchi kain.

Not
Blum

Don't.
Jangan.

I am ill

Sahya sakit

By the hour.
Kira jam.

How long will
Brapa lama

How far is it
Brapa jauh

What ?
Apa ?

call the Doctor,
panggil Doctor.

it take
itu?

to
pergi -

a policeman,
mata-mata.

Mr. is where ?

Tuan mana ?

Throw away this.
Buang ini.

Give me a light.
Kasih api.

Rubber.
Getah,

Plantation estate,
Kebun.

Public Gardens.

Kebun bunga.

The estate of Mr.
Kebun Tuan

The house of
Rumah

Here?
Sini?

Close ?
Dekat ?

Far off.
Jauh lagi.

Bring it here.
Bawa sini.

Wait for an answer.
Nanti jawab.

Do not wait for an answer.
Jangan nanti jawab.

One o'clock.
Pukul satu.

Two
Pukul

o'clock,
dua.

Go
Pergi

and

get back my clothes from the washerman,
bawa balik kain deri dhobi.

The traveller is warned that any Asiatic on being addressed in Malay by a European who is obviously
unfamiliar with that language will, to gain time to understand, reply "Tuan?" (Sir?), or "Apa?" (What?), or
"Apa Tuan kata,'' and that especially when speaking to Malays it is only slow and gentle enunciation which is likely
to make them understand. The adoption of a hectoring tone will prove fatal to mutual comprehension.

Many English terms are in universal use, e.^., station (station kreta api for clearness), police station
(sometimes rumah pasong, or baleri mata-mata), porter, ticket, kreta mail (mail train) post, Tuan Doctor, Tuan
Magistrate, cigarette, motor car, bicycle, motor bicycle, kapal mail (mail steamer).

i.^

4>:

Singapore, Penang and Malacca
HACKNEY CARRIAGE and JINRIKISHA FARES.

Singapore.

Malacca.

Penang.

2nd
Class.

3rd
Class.

.10

.15
.15
.60
2.00
.30

2nd
Class.

3rd

Class.

2nd
Class.

3rd
Class.

HACKNEY CARRIAGES.

Hire for any distance not exceeding half-a-mile

For any distance exceeding half-a-mile but not exceeding one mile

For every additional mile or part of a mile •-.

For one hour or part thereof

For a whole day consisting of nine hours

For every hour or part of an hour after the 5th or 9th hour

.15
.25

.25

.75

3.00

.40

.15
.30
.30
.75
3.00
.40

—

.25
.30
.25
.40
3.00
.30

.20
.25
.20
.30
2.25
.20

1st
Class.

2nd
Class.

1st
Class.

2nd
Class.

1st
Class.

2nd
Class.

JINRIKISHAS.

For any half-a-mile or fraction of half-a-mile ■■•
For one hour

For every additional quarter-of-an-hour
Detention for every hour or part thereof

.05
.40
.10
.10

.03
.20
.05
.05

.05
.40
.10
.10

.03
.20
.05
.05

.05
.40
.10
.10

.03
.20
.05
.05

:J=

5 —

4>:

PRESENT SECTIONS AND ROUTES.

Singapore Electric Tramways, Limited.

SCHEDULE OF FARES AND SECTIONS.

Fare for each Section on each Route

(1st Class 5 cents.

2nd Class 3 cents.

The tickets are not transferable^ and must be shoum for inspection on demand.

ROUTE No. 1.
Tank Road to Keppei Harbour.

Section i. Tank Road Terminus to Johnston's Pier.
„ I a. North Bridge Road to Market Street.
„ 2. Johnston's Pier to Tanjong Pagar.
„ 3. Tanjong Pagar to Pulau Brani Ferry.
„ 4. Borneo Wharf to Keppei Harbour.

Fare for full distance, ist Class, 20 cents only.
Fare for full distance, 2nd Class, 12 cents only.

ROUTE No. 2.

Tanjong Pagar Dock to Gaylang.

Section i. Tanjong Pagar to Bras Basah Road.
„ la. Cross Street to Arab Street.
„ 2. High Street to Lavender Street.
„ 3. Arab Str. to Post 310 (Gaylang Village).
„ 4. Post 310 to Gayl. Terminus (T.Katong).

Fare for full distance, 1st Class, 20 cents only.
Fare for full distance, 2nd Class, 12 cents only.

ROUTE No. 3.

Lavender Street.

Fare between Serangoon Road and Gaylang Road
2 cents only.

ROUTE No. 4.
Raffles Hotel to Paya Lebar.

Section i. Raffles Hotel to Lavender Street.
„ 2. Lavender Street to Bidadari.

3. Bidadari to Paya Lebar Terminus.

Fare for full distance, ist Class, 15 cents only.
Fare for full distance, 2nd Class, 9 cents only.

COLOUR OF TICKETS.

5 cents and 3 cents WHITE.

10 cents and 6 cents BLUE.

15 cents and 9 cents YELLOW.

20 cents and 12 cents GREEN.

The 1st Class Tickets are Surcharged with two Red Lines.

All small packages -which can be placed under the seat or in the car without inconveniencing passengers

are carried free of charge.

- 6 -

SINGAPORE ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS, LIMITED.

Reuiscd Time Table.

The Tramcars on various Routes of the Singapore Electric Tramways, Limited, will run to the following Time and Schedule: —

Route No. 1.— TANK ROAD TO KEPPEL HARBOUR.

First JCa: will leave Tank Road at 6.30 a.m.

,, „ „ „ Keppel Harbour at 6.30 a.m.
Last „ „ „ Tank Road at 10.50 p.m.

„ „ „ „ Keppel Harbour at 10.54 p.m.

Between these times Cars will run at intervals of 6 minutes till 6 p.m., after which time they will run at intervals of 8 minutes. A late
Car will leave Keppel Harbour for the Tramway Depot via North Bridge Road and Bras Basah Road at 11.30 p.m.

Route No. 2.— THROUGH SERVICE, TANJONG PAGAR TO GAYLANG.

First Car will leave Gaylang at 6.44 a.m.

„ „ „ „ Tanjong Pagar at 6.48 a.m.

Last „ „ „ Gaylang at 10.45 P-"^-' through Car to Tanjong Pagar.

„ „ „ „ Tanjong Pagar at 10.32 p.m., through Car to Gaylang.

Between these times Cars will run at intervals of 8 minutes. A late Car will leave Gaylang for the Tramway Depot via Lavender Street
and Serangoon Road at 11.16 p.m., and passengers by this Car who may wish to proceed to Tanjong Pagar may do so by alighting at Lavender
Street, taking a fresh Car from the latter, the last Car for Tanjong Pagar leaving Lavender Street at 11.33 p.m.

NOTE. — Any Ticket is available only on the Car on which it is issued.

Route No. 3.— TANJONG PAGAR TO LAVENDER STREET.

First Car will leave Tanjong Pagar at 6.30 a.m.

„ ,, ,, „ Lavender Street at 6.0 a.m.

Last „ „ „ Tanjong Pagar at 11.56 p.m.

,, „ „ „ Lavender Street at 11.33 P-m.

Between these times Cars will run at intervals of 3 minutes. A late Car will leave Tanjong Pagar for the Tramway Depot via North
Bridge Road and Bras Basah Road at 12 midnight.

Route No. 4.- RAFFLES HOTEL TO PAYA LEBAR.

First Car will leave Raffles Hotel at 7.0 a.m.

„ „ „ „ Paya Lebar at 6.24 a.m.

Last „ ,, „ Raffles Hotel at 10.28 p.m.

„ ,, „ „ Paya Lebar at 11.04 P-^-

Cars will leave Raffles Hotel loi Lavender Street only at 10.44 p.m., II.O p.m., 11.16 p.m., 11.24 p.m. Last Car to Lavender Street
returning to Tramway Depot only. Between these times Cars will run at 8 minutes intervals till 9.04 p.m., after which time they will run at
15 minutes intervals. On Saturdays and Sundays, Cars will run at 8 minutes intervals till last Car, 1104 p.m. from Paya Lebar.

By Order,
SINGAPORE, 2IS/ August, igii. SINGAPORE ELECTRIC TRAiMWAYS, LIMITED.

!<=

PENANG TRAMS.

Route— JETTY TO AVER ITAM SECTIONS.

Jetty— Magazine.

Magazine— Jail.

Jaii— Kampong Bliaru, i Kampong Biiaru— Ayep Itara.

Fare^ist Class, per Section, 5 cents.
2nd „ „ „ 3 cents.

Trams leave the Jail for Town and Country Sections at 6 a.m.

Last tram leaves Jetty for Jail at ... ... ... ... 10.12 p.m.

Last tram leaves Ayer Itam for Jetty (on Week days) ... ... ... 7.36 p.m.

Last tram leaves Ayer Itam for Jetty (Sundays) ... ... ... ... 8.00 p.m.

First tram leaves Jetty ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6.26 a.m.

Last tram leaves Jetty ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 10.14 p.m.

First tram leaves Ayer Itam ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6.24 a.m.

Last tram leaves Ayer Itam (on Week days) ... ... ... ... 7.36 p.m.

Last tram leaves Ayer Itam (on Sundays) ... ... ... ... ... 8.00 p.m.

Route— JETTY TO SUNGEI PENANG SECTIONS.

1 2

* Jetty— Beacii Street. Beacli Street— Leitli Street

Station.

Leitli Street Police Station-
Magazine.

Magazine— Sungei Penang.

Fare — 2 cents per Section. No First Class.

Trams leave Magazine for Beach Street and Sungei Penang at ... ... 6.12 a.m.

Last tram from Beach Street to Magazine at ... ... ... ... 10.12 p.m.

Last tram from Sungei Penang to Magazine at ... ... ... ... 10.12 p.m.

* Jetty — Beach Street Section not open to traffic yet.

First tram leaves Jetty ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6.24 a.m.

Last tram leaves Jetty ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 10.12 p.m.

First tram leaves Sungei Penang ... ... ... ... ... ... 6.18 a.m.

Last tram leaves Sungei Penang ... ... ... ... ... .■■ 10.18 p.m.

Trams run every twelve minutes between Sections.

8 —

■^

FEDERATED MALAY STATES.

LEGAL TARIFFS FOR HACKNEY CARRIAGES, CARTS, OMNIBUSES AND JINRIKISHAS.

RAK.

shlangor.

Negri
Sembilan,

PAHANG.

Enactment

No. XVII. of

1899.

No. V. of 1900.

No. I

of 1800.

1899.

Caz. Not. 3 of
1906.

All Districts.

Ulu Selangorand
Ulu Langat.

Other Districts.

All Districis.

All Districts.

HACKNEY CARRIAGES

With Two Wheels—

•S <:.

S c.

$ c.

Hire for a day of eight hours within town limits

1 50

2 60

For each mile or part of a mile

For every hour of detention (up to 10 hours) ...

For every day of detention (10 to 24 hours)

1 00

1 50

With Four Wheels —

Hire for a day of eight hours within town limits

2 00

2 OO

2 50

For the first mile or part of a mile ...

For each subsequent mile or part of a mile ... ...

For every hour of detention (up to 10 hours)

For every day of detention (10 to 24 hours) ...

1 50

1 60

1 50

When travelling to meet a passenger by arrahgement or returning empty, per

mile or part of a mile

Special Rates—

Kuala Kubu to the Pass

Do. do. and hack

Detention per night after the first night, for which no detention fare is to be paid

When a hackney carriage is taken to and from any place over 10 miles distant.

no extra charge shall be made for detention, provided that the return journey is

made on the same day as the journey out or on the following day.

OMNIBUSES.

For each mile or part of a mile for each passenger

BULLOCK OR BUFFALO CARTS.

Without Springs, drawn by One Animal —

For each mile or part of a mile ...

Without Springs, drawn by Two Animals —

For first mile or part of a mile

311

For each subsequent mile or part of a mile

Returning empty per mile or part of a mile ..

+ For the first half mile 10 cents.

t Beyond Sanitary Board limit 12 cents per mile.

Perak.

Selangor.

Negri
sembilan.

Pahang.

Enactment
No. X. of 1900.
Gasf. Not. 957

of 24-12.08.

Ulu Selangor,

Ulu Langat

and

Klang.

Enactment

No. XO. of 1900.

Giiz. Not. .i7 of

8-2.01 and

199 of 3-5-01.

■S c.
06

Enactment

No. XII. of 1900.

Gaz. Not. 637

of 24-11-05.

Enactment

No. XIX. of

1999.

1st
Class.

$ c.

"in

?nd
Class.

S c.
04

1st
Class.

S c.
07

2nd

Class.

Enactment

No. II. of

1907.

JINRIKISHAS.

For every half mile or fraction of a half mile ...

For any mile or fraction of a mile

5 c.
04

-S c.
to 05

.? c.
JO 05

For one hour

For every additional quarter of an hour

Detention, beyond the first quarter of an hour, for every hour or part of an

hour

For a day of eight hours

25
06

26
OO

50
12

10
2 00

25
06

1 no

30
■ 05

30
05

The hirer shall pay five cents for the rest prescribed (Section 29, Perak
Enactment X. of 1900), (Section 30, Selangor Enactment XII. of 1900),
(Section 29, Negri Sembilan Enactment XIX. of 1900) and (Section 29,
Pahang Enactment No. 11. of 1907)— /.«., after travelling three miles.

J-

<f-

FEDERATED MALAY STATES.

Local and other /loneys, Weights and Measures.

Resihouses Upkept by the Government.

The charge for lodging is 8i-50 cts.^^s. 6d. a day, and for
board is f 1.50 cts ^3^. 6d. a day, unless otherwise stated.

Name of Town.

Name of State.

Bagan Serai

Perak

Batu Gajah

Perak

Bentong t

Pahang

Bidor

Perak

Chanderiang

Perak

Gopeng

Perak

Grit

Perak

Ipoh

Perak

Jugra

Selangor

Kajang

Selangor

Kampar

Perak

Kampong Batu (Rembau) *

Negri Sembilan

Kuala Dipang

Perak

Kuala Kangsar

Perak

Kuala Klawang t

Negri Sembilan

Kuala Lipis t

Pahang

Kuala Lumpur

Selangor

Kuala Pahang % ||

Pahang

Kuala Pilah *

Negri Sembilan

Kuala Selangor

Selangor

Kuantan t

Pahang

Parit Buntar t

Perak

Pekan ||

Pahang

Port Dickson *

Negri Sembilan

Raub*

Pahang

Selama

Perak

Sepang

Negri Sembilan

Seremban *

Negri Sembilan

Setul *

Negri Sembilan

Sungkai

Perak

Taiping

Perak

Tatnpin *

Negri Sembilan

Tanjong Malim

Perak

Tanjong Tualang

Perak

Tapah

Perak

Telok Anson

Perak

Ulu Selangor

Selangor

* Board, 62^4^. 8rf. a day. t Board, S2.50 cts.^SJ. lotf. a day. J Lodging,

5i^2j. 4d. a day, || Food supplied by caretakers, with whom travellers

should make their own arrangements.

Money.
Copper Coins — \ cent, \ cent and i cent.
Silver Coins — 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents pieces and i Dollar.
100 cents ... ... ... ... ... = I Dollar.

Weights.
Avoirdupois .

I Tahil

16 Tahils = I Kati
1,600 Tahils = 100 Katis.
100 Katis = I Pikul

40 Pikuls =

Goldsmith' s Weight.

12 Saga '= I Mayam =

16 Mayam = i Bongkal =

12 Bongkal = 1 Kati =

(I lb.

Opium Weight.

\\ oz.
Ij lb.

i33i lbs.
I Koyan = 5,333^ lbs.

52 Grains.
832 Grains.
9,984 Grains.
8 ozs. 16 dwts. ).

:= I Hoon.

= I Ghee.

= I Tahil.

Measures.
Liquid and Dry Measure.

^ I Pau or Quarter Chupak.

= I Pint or Half Chupak.

... := I Quart or Chupak.
:^ I Gallon or Gantang.

Long or Cloth Measure.
= I Hasta.
= I Ela.

^ I Depa {l fathom or 6 feet).
20 Kayu (pieces)... = i Kodi (i score).

Lend Measure.
12 Inchi (inches) ^ i Kaki (i foot).
6 Kaki ... = i Depa (6 feet).

4 (square) Depa = I Jemba (144 square feet).
100 Jemba ... = I Penjuru (14,400 square feel).
4 Penjuru = I Kelong (r orlong, or I-J- acre, nearly).

1 Lelong ... ^ 2,400 square feet.
24 Lelong ... = I Square orlong (i^ acre, nearly).

Tee

Hoon

Chee

Gills ..

Paus ..

Pints ..

Quarts..

Jengkal

Hasta ..

Ela ..

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—^

steamship Lines

TO THE

MALAY PENINSULA

(SINGAPORE or PENANG).

Singapone.

P. & O. Steam Navigation Co.

Norddeutscher Lloyd, Bremen (Imperial German

Mail).
British India Steam Navigation Co., Ltd.
Pacific Mail Steamship Co.
Messageries Mantimes (French Mail Line).
Apcar Line.
Hamburg-America Line.
Ocean Steamship Co., Ltd.
Austrian Lloyd Steam Navigation Co.
Stoomvart Maatschappij " Nederland."
Toyo Kisen Kaisha (Oriental Steamship Co.).
N. Y. K. Japan Mail Steamship Co., Ltd.

Penang.

P. & O. Steam Navigation Co.

Norddeutscher Lloyd, Bremen (Imperial German

Mail).
British India Steam Navigation Co., Ltd.
Ocean Steamship Co., Lid.
Hamburg-America Line,
Austrian Lloyd Steam Navigation Co.
Burns-Philp Line.
Koninklijke Paketvaart Maatschappij (Royal Dutch

Packet Co.).

Local Lines.

Straits Steamship Co., Ltd.
1 he Siam Steamship Co., Ltd.
Straits Steamship Co., Ltd.
Eastern Shipping Co., Ltd.

LIST OF BANKS.

Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China : —
Penang, Taiping, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Klang.
Seremban, Malacca and Singapore.

Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation : —
Penang, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Malacca and
Singapore.

Mercantile Bank of India, Limited : —

Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Kota Bharu (Kelantan)
and Singapore.

Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappi) : —

{Netherlands Trading Society)

Penang and Singapore.

Banking and Trading Corporation : —
(Naudin Ten Cale & Company, Limited)

Penang.
Banque de I'Indo-Chine : —

Singapore.
Netherlands- India Commercial Bank —

Singapore.
International Banking Corporation : —

Singapore.

LIST OF HOTELS.

Penang : —
Eastern

nd Oriental Hotel ; Crag Hotel,

Raffles-by-the-Sea,
de r Europe and

Hotel, Hotel de

Sanitorium, Penang Hills ;
Sea View Hotel, Hotel
Runnymede Hotel.

Singapore : —

Raffles Hotel, Adelphi

I'Europe, Hotel de la Paix, Hotel van Wijk,

and Sea View Hotel and Sanitorium.

Kuala Lumpur : —

Grand Oriental Hotel. Empire Hotel and
Station Hotel.

Ipoh : —

Grand Hotel.

-ff

.<r

-e-

-'f-

POST AND TELEGRAPH in every town
and some villages. Telephones in towns.
Inland telegrams 3 cents a word. Money
Orders. Registered Post. Insured Post.
Cable rate to Europe, via Suez, $1.25 a
word, via Madras and Fao, $1.45 a word.

HEAVY BAGGAGE. Travellers who decide
to land at Singapore and proceed to Penang
by rail, or vice versa, are recommended to
send their heavy baggage and deck chairs
by sea to the care of the steamship line's
Agent at Singapore or Penang.

BREAKING JOURNEY. Information as to
through tickets and breaking journey is
given in railway time table.

cents to the dollar. 1 dollar = 2 shillings and
4 pence. 50 cent piece = 1 shilling and 2
pence. 20 cent piece =5;-; pence. 10 cent
piece = 24 pence. 5 cent piece = 1 1 pence.
The currency is not depreciated.

CLOTHING. Thin tropical clothing, to be
bought in Singapore, Penang, Ipoh or
Kuala Lumpur, for day time. Light flannel
or tweed for evening wear. Sun hat
essential.

SERVANTS. Not essential, but add to
comfort if English-speaking. Wages about
$2 (4s. 8d.) a day, if engaged for short
periods only. They find their own food
and clothing. Malay, Chinese and Indian.

ACCOMMODATION. The sleeping cars
are divided into compartments, of which
each contains one lower and one upper
berth, arranged parallel to the length of
the train.

NO PASSPORTS required.

HEALTH. Doctors and Chemists in every
town. Read Illustrated Guide for hints on
health.

CLIMATE. Equable tropical climate. Bright
sunshine. Cool breezes. No excessive
heat. Temperature falls at night.

NO CUSTOMS examination, but import of
opium, spirits, firearms and ammunition,
and export of tin (includes ornaments in
block tin) and rubber forbidden unless
duty or licence are paid.

CURRENCY. Paper Notes: 1, 5, 10 dollar
and upwards. Silver dollars. 5, 1 0, 20 and
50 cent pieces. Copper 1 cent pieces. 100

SCENERY. Magnificent jungle-covered hills.
Summer seas. Tropical palms and flowering
shrubs. Coconut palms. Rubber estates.
Tin mines. Limestone rocks, 2,000 feet.
Chinese Temples. Rice fields. Fruit
orchards.

POPULATION. European, Malay, Chinese,
Tamil and other Indian races.

- 1.^ -

:<>

Qencttal Infoitmatfon,

Bibliognapby*

■>

4>:

51,725 square miles.
1 ,560 square miles.

26,380 square miles.
23,785 square miles.

Area of British Malaya

Area of Straits Settlements

Area of Federated Malay
States

Area of Malay States

Trade of Straits Settlements —

Imports ... 1450,039,016 (£52,504,552)
Exports ... 1375,128,758 (£43,765,022)

Trade ot Federated Malay States —

Imports ... $76,122,679 (£8,880,979)
Exports ... 1154,974,195 (£18,080.322)

Population of British Malaya —

Male, 1 ,688,984 ; Female, 962,052 ; Total, 2,65 1 ,036.

Population of Straits Settlements —

Male, 467,374 ; Female, 246,695 ; Total, 714.069.

Population of Federated Malay States —

Male, 725,062 ; Female, 31 1,937 ; Total, 1,036,999.

Population of Malay States —

Male, 496,548 ; Female, 403,420 ; Total, 899,968.

Principal Products of the Federated Malay States

annually —

Total.

Value.

Areca Nuts Tons ..

1,369

... £11,567

Coffee

669

33,272

Copra ... ... „

7,486

139,326

Fish and Allied Pro-

ducts ... ... ,,

2,168

22,003

Gambler

1,893

43,135

Guttas and Rubber

other than Para

14,691

Gold ... Ounces .

. 15,868

63,248

Padi Tons .

14,462

56,716

Para Rubber (1913)

. 23,463

... 6,500,000

Pepper

420

12,016

Rice

. 10,818

76,426

Sugar

9,332

79,309

Tapioca ...

8,632

60,229

TinandTinOre(1913) „

. 50,128

... 10,000,000

* Weight of Ore ; contains

70 per cent, o

f tin.

.ailway Open Mileage (Malaya) ...

735 miles.

.oads (F.M.S.)

2,294 miles.

Thomas Cook & Sons are Agents for the Federated
Malay States Railways all over the World.

Name of Book.

Malay Sketches

Unaddressed Letters

The Real Malay

British Malaya

Also and Perhaps

Malay-English Vocabulary
English-Malay Vocabulary
Malay and English Dictionary

Manual of the Malay Language

John Smith in Malaya

My Friends the Savages ...

Author.

Publisher.

Sir F. Swettenham John Lane

Kelly & Walsh, Ltd.

. Sir F. Swettenham
and Sir Hugh
Clifford
W. E. Maxwell ...

, A. Hale

. G. B. Cenuti

Abridged Malay-English Dictionary
Malay-English Dictionary

Malay Beliefs

Malay-English Vocabulary

Practical Malay Grammar

Travellers' MalayPronouncing Handbook

Papers on Malay Subjects

Journal of the F.M.S. Museums

East Coast Etchings

In Malay Forests

Saleh ... _

Bush-whacking

In a Corner of Asia

In Court and Kampong

Heroes of Exile

Since the Beginning

A Free Lance of To-day

Further India

The Malay Peninsula

Malay Magic

Pagan Races

Mining in Malaya

An Anecdotal History of Singapore

The Far Eastern Tropics

The Malay Archipelago

Descriptive Dictionary of British Malaya

Sunny Singapore

Sir Stamford Raffles

Kelantan

Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay
States

R. J. Wilkinson

Shellabear .

W. G. Maxwell .
Sir Hugh Clifford.,

Kegan Paul, Trench,
Trubner & Co.
. Brill, Leyden
. Tipographia Co-
operative Com-
ense, Como, Italy
. F. M, S. Govt. Press
Kelly & Walsh

, American Mission
Press, Singapore

Kelly & Walsh

F. M. S. Govt. Press

Straits Times
. Blackwood & Sons

A, Wright and
T. H. Reid ...

Skeat

Skeat& Blagden ...
E. Warneford-Lock
Charles B. Buckley
Alleyne Ireland ...
A. R.Wallace

Dennys

J. A. B. Cook

Boulger

W.A. Graham ...

C. W. Harrison ...

H. C. Belfield

Lawrence & Bullen
T. Fisher Unwin

Fraser & Neave
Macmillan
Elliot Stock

Handbook to the F. M. S.

Twentieth Century Impressions of

British Malaya A. Wright

The Globular Jottings of Griselda ... E. Douglas Hume

The Multiplicities of Una „

Malay Orthography H. H. Hudson

An Aid to the Study of English

(Vocabulary and Sentences in English

and Malay) M. Hellier ...

English and Malay Vocabulary A. E. Pringle

The Straits Dialogues ...

The Straits Vocabulary (English, Malay

and Chinese-Amoy Dialect)

The Triglot Vocabulary (English, Malay

and Chinese)

Dictionnaire Franfais-Malais and Malais-

Fran^ais Abb6 P. Favre

Manual of Statistics relating to the

Federated Malay States —

Malay States In-
formation Agency
Stanford

Lloyds
Blackwood & Sons

F. M. S. Govt. Press

A/ost of the above are fjrocurable from Kelfy iC- H'af^fi or Jofin Littfe & Co
SinaaPore, and from Pritcliard & Co., Penang.

-J=

— 14 —

Bodotn,

On the way to Ayer Itam, Penang.

Penang.

Notes on Places of Interest.

GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION.

RITISH MALAYA extends from
Singapore, i ° 1 5 ' north of the equa-
tor, to Perils, and includes the Malay
Peninsula from the south as far as the
sixth degree north, where it meets
the south of Siam. The Peninsula
lies between 100° and 105° east
longitude, having Sumatra on its west
and Borneo on its east. It consists
of a narrow tongue of land, 464
miles long, and nowhere more than
216 miles broad, and is the most
southern extremity of the continent
of Asia. The Peninsula is very
mountainous. Its highest peak is
Gunong Tahan, 7,186 feet, where
a hill station is projected. Its

longest river is the Pahang, upwards of 330 miles.
Except where it has been mined or cultivated, a
dense tropical forest covers the whole country,
including the hills. In spite of its being so close
to the equator, its climate is not oppressively hot,
for it has the sea all round it and a breeze is always
blowing either from the sea or from the mountains.
Its most ancient inhabitants still surviving are the
negrito and semi-negrito Sakei, a dark-brown-
skinned race of jungle-dwellers. The Malays, who
are, in point of antiquity, the second race in the
Peninsula, colonised it from Sumatra about five
hundred years ago, and brought to it their own
name, which is probably Sanskrit, and given to
them by a Sanskrit-using Aryan race from India
which found the Malays in the mountainous
country (Sk. Malaya) of Sumatra. The Chinese

15 -

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■^

and Indians have maintained trading relations
with the Malays for many centuries, and, since
British protection, have come to live in the
Peninsula in ever-increasing numbers.

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to
found settlements on the Peninsula. They were
followed by the Dutch, and the Dutch by the
British. The British occupation was effected in
stages, and by arrangement rather than by conquest.
The Malays ceded Penang in 1786, the Dutch
yielded up Malacca and the Dindings in 1824,
Singapore was acquired from the Malays in 1 8 1 g,
Perak became British-protected in 1872, Selangor
in 1874, Negri Sembilan in 1874 and Pahang in
1888. The last four States federated themselves
under British protection in 1897. Siam in 1909
ceded to Great Britain her suzerainty over Kedah,
Kelantan, Trengganu and Perlis. Singapore,
Penang, Malacca and the Dindings form the
Crown Colony of the Straits Setilements, and are
Briti.sh territory. Perak, Selangor, Negri Sembilan
and Pahang are Malay territory, and form the

Federated Malay States. Johore, Kedah, Kelantan,
Trengganu and Perlis are called simply Malay
States.

Both the Colony of the Straits Settlements and
the Federated Malay States are divided into
administrative districts, whose District Officers are
responsible to the Governor, if in the Colony, and
to the four British Residents, if in the Federated
Malay States. The four Residents are responsible
to the Chief Secretary to Government, and he to
the High Commissioner for the Malay States
(Governor of the Straits Settlements). In the
other Malay States are stationed a few British
officials whose powers are at present chiefly
advisory.

The principal seaports for ocean-going traffic
are Singapore (16,444,246 tons), Penang (8,564,590
tons), and Port Swettenham (1,823,684 tons).

The country produces areca-nuts, coffee, copra,
fish, gambler, rubber, gutta, gold, rice, pepper,
sugar, tapioca, tin, tin-ore and wolfram.

4>-

Railway Offices. Penang

- 16 -

:J=

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z

# ^'i"^"?

ZO««F>

tifiV^^'

MAP OF

PENANG

Scale

SepticTank

Stanford's Geog' Estoti* London

■>

Its population consists of Malays, Chinese,
Indians of all races, Siamese, Japanese, Arabs,
Sinhalese, Annamese, Burmese, Europeans and
Eurasians.

The principal towns are Singapore (259,610),
Penang (101,182), Kuala Lumpur (46,718), Ipoh
(23,978), Taiping (19,556), Malacca (21,191),
Seremban (8,667), and in them all the wants of
western travellers can be at once supplied. There
are hotels in many of the towns, and resthouses
upkept by the Government in those of them
that have no hotels.

Over 2,300 miles of the best roads in the
world, and about 750 miles of extremely comfortable
railway, make the Peninsula excellently well adapted
for tourists, and, as it is still comparatively unknown,
its charms are as yet unspoilt. Yet they can be
viewed without discomfort.

PENANG.

Captain Sir James Lancaster, in the beginning
of June, 1592, being in need of a rest for his men
and his ships, " came to an anker in a very good
harborough between three islands." Here they
stayed till August, but their " refreshing was very
small, onely of oisters growing on rocks, greet
wilks and some small fish which we took with our
hookes." He landed some of the men on these
uninhabited islands for their health's sake, but
twenty-six poor fellows died there. This is the
first mention of Penang which can be traced
amongst English writers.

As Malacca has Albuquerque, and Singapore
has Sir Stamford Raffles, so has Penang Captain
Francis Light. He is first heard of in 1771,
when he wrote to Warren Hastings in India,

suggesting Penang as a desirable repairing harbour in
Malay waters and " a convenient magazine for the
Eastern trade." But it was not until 1786 that the
Governor-General in Council resolved on Penang,
the merits of Junk Ceylon having been, in the
interval, weighed against those of Penang. At
this time the Island of Penang belonged to Kedah,
which had cleared out the pirate- nest there about
1750, and for $6,000 a year Kedah's Raja agreed
to cede it to the Honourable East India Company.
Captain Light's landing force consisted of 100
" new- raised marines,'' 30 lascars from Calcutta and
15 English artillerymen with 5 officers. With
these he took formal possession on August nth,
disembarking them upon what is now the Esplan-
ade, and was then a low sandy point covered with
wood. The sole inhabitants were 52 Malays, and
they helped in clearing the forest. But " before
we could get up any defence we had visitors of
all kinds, some for curiosity, some for gain,
and some for plunder." Early Penang eyed its
visitors with suspicion, and no Malay wearing a
kris was allowed ashore,, and any tourist who was
above using the axe on the jungle was confined to
his boat. Captain Light was determined that his
post should not have the common history of
European trading posts in those days.

To encourage the wood-cutters he fired a bag
of dollars into the jungle, thereby rousing the
enthusiasm of such visitors as came for gain, and
he built a stockade, which is now Fort Cornwallis.
On August 1 2th the Colony was christened Prince
of Wales Island, that day being the Prince Regent's
birthday, and such is still its official designation.
By 1795 the population was put at 20,000, and
Penang had already attracted many settlers from
India, who formed the majority of the population,
there being then only 3,000 Chinese. The East
India Company exhibited in relation to Penang

17 —

''t

Bodotn.

The Crag Hotel, Penang Hill,

Penang.

the same reluctance to adopt further responsibilities
as afterwards hampered Raffles at Singapore.
They would set up no Court, and the place was
administered, even up to the beginning of the 19th
century, by a sort of Court Martial of military
officers and local notables, who sent murderers for
lifelong imprisonment to Bengal. In 1801 Penang
was obliged to set up customs to raise a revenue,
and until 1826 the trade suffered obstruction from
this. By 1789 the imports had reached a value of
8600,000 (^150,000). To-day they are worth
$136,081,695 (;^i5, 876,198). In 179] the Malays
of Kedah made their first and last attack with a
force said to consist of 8,000 men. They were
routed by 400 men led by Captain Light. In
1794 Captain Light, fifty years of age, died in
Penang, but by that time the Settlement was
flourishing, and in especial he had foreseen the rise
of the great nutmeg industry which flourished later
in Penang. Though this cultivation has fallen off,
the remains of it are still to be seen in the nutmeg
trees on the hills of the island. In 1805 the Indian

Government, somewhat tardily, acknowledged that
the position of the island, its climate, its fertility and
its harbour had long pointed it out as an acquisi-
tion of very great importance, in a commercial and
political view, for an emporium of commerce in the
Eastern seas. The body of Captain Light lies in
the old cemetery, and in Saint George's Church is
an inscription to his memory.

The subsequent history of Penang is one of
steady development, until to-day the tonnage
entered and cleared at the port is 9,007,190; its
imports and exports are valued at $255,090,531
(^^29,760,562) ; its population consists of 63,740
Chinese, 17,666 Indians, 15,815 Malays, 938
Europeans and 3,023 other races, totalling 101,182
in all. From the island a railway, whose first
link with the mainland is a steam ferry connecting
with the trains, runs right through to Singapore,
and in no long time that railway will reach right
across the Peninsula to Bangkok, in Siam.

The City of Georgetown is situated on an
eastern headland of the island of Penang, whose
extreme apex is Swettenham Pier. The seafront
on the south is known as Weld Quay, and off this
lies an immense collection of native craft and
steamers. The southern end of Weld Quay does
not run as far yet as the River Penang, but a
reclamation as far as that is proposed. The
business quarter of Penang lies landward of the
railway jetty, and is best described by taking that
jetty as a starting point. Opposite the railway
jetty, across the tram lines, is an imposing white
building, which is the railway station. It has a
high clock tower, by far the most conspicuous
mark in Penang whether from the sea or from the
land.

4>:

:J=

■>

PENANG SEAFRONT.

The street which runs past the railway station
into the shop area possesses no buildings of
interest. We turn to the right from off the railway
jetty and follow along the seafront, passing the
shipping ofiSces, and come to the post office
opposite Victoria Pier. From this pier leads inland
a street at whose end is the fine building of the
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank. Still continuing
along the seafront the next pier reached is
Swettenham Pier, and opposite it a clock tower
presented to the town by a Chinese notable.
Beyond this is Cornwallis Fort, surrounded by a
moat. A road goes through the fort and brings us
out on the Esplanade. This has the sea on the
north, the fort on the east and the Town Hall on
the west. On the south runs Light Street.
Fronting the Esplanade along this street come, in
order named, and starting from the seaward end,
the Government Offices and Courts. Going down
Light Street and leaving the Town Hall on the
right, we arrive at the handsome Supreme Court

Badom.

Chinese Residence, Penan^,

Penang.

Tanjong Bunga, Penang.

Penang,

building, standing in an island of green lawn
between Light Street and Farquhar Street, and
behind this is Saint George's Church, next to which
is a Government school building. This brings us
into Farquhar Street, where the next buildings are,
on the left. Saint Xavier's school and, opposite
it on the right, the Convent. Continuing on
we pass the Saint George's Girl School on the
right and so arrive at the Eastern and Oriental
Hotel, admirably situated on the edge of the
sea, from whose lawns, under shady trees, we
see ship after ship arriving or departing, fishing-
stakes lifting in the haze, and beyond them the blue
hills of Kedah. Farquhar Street a little further on
becomes Northam Road, and on it lies the old
cemetery where so many of Penang's notables and
worthies, civilians, soldiers, sailors and merchants,
sleep. From the plan it will be seen that Penang
has a west end where lie the Residency, the race
course, the golf course, the golf club, and also the
gaol and hospitals. It is this west end which is the

— 19

Bodom.

Pcnfing.

Tanjong Bunga, Penang-

glory of the town. Here the roads are broad
and good. At every turn are beautiful views
of houses in their gardens, in a land where
ordinary gardening is easy and landscape gardening
inevitable. A drive through this neighbourhood
should be taken by anyone who is spending a few
hours in Penang, Before reaching the Eastern and
Oriental Hoi el on Farquhar Street a turn to the left
down Leith Street is worth taking, for along this
street are several fine Chinese houses. In this
climate, where frost and thaw do not damage
buildings, it is possible to decorate exteriors with a
wealth of ornament which the bright sun shows up
in gorgeous colouring. Notable are the dragons
ramping on the roofs and strange are the figures
in china and pottery and the pictures in panels
on outside walls. It is occasionally possible to
be shown over the interior of one of these houses.

There are plenty of beautiful drives in Penang.
The Chinese temple at Ayer Itam is four miles
away. It can be reached by electric tram (half-an-
hour) from Swettenham Pier, and this route is
more picturesque than the carriage road.

A drive of three miles will in twenty minutes
take us, in a different direction, through a beautiful
succession of gardens and cultivation to the Water-
fall Garden, where the natural beauty of the site,
a green hollow nestling in the hill foot, with a
leaping cascade at its far end, has been utilised to
give Penang and all world-travellers a gem of
scenery.

The beginning of the ascent to the Crag Hotel
(one hour, carried in a chair) is at the Garden. The
hill is 2,066 feet high, and gives a magnificent view
of the whole spreading prospect between Penang
and the mainland. Coolies and chairs are always
in waiting at the foot of the hill. The hotel belongs
to the management of the Eastern and Oriental
Hotel.

In this direction, the pass leading to Balik
Pulau is within easy reach by motor car, and the
scenery, with its glimpses of the sea down well-
wooded long ravines, is unsurpassed.

For other drives there are Relau Police Station
(ten miles) and Bagan Lepas (twelve miles), through
coconuts, padi and open country, and these
motorists will discover for themselves.

Bodom.

Taniong Bunga, Penang.

4^.

:J=

But the incomparable beauty of the drive along
the coast towards Tanjong Bunga, past the Swim-
ming Club (six miles), must have special mention.
It begins somewhat inauspiciously, for before the
road starts to skirt the sea it passes through a
collection of Malay houses at Bagan Jermal, which
the artist's eye will call picturesque and the ordinary
person will label queer but squalid. Once these
are left behind (they are at about the fifth mile)
there begins and there continues, along this, the
Corniche of Malaya, an unrivalled succession of
beautiful views. If you go along this road in the
bright morning, and most mornings in Penang are
bright, you will lay up in memory for ever those
sweet glimpses through the palms of the delicious
blues and greens which are that summer sea. On
the gold of the sand to which you look down from
the red banks of the road lie splashes of black
granite boulder, lapped by the waves. Gazing
outwards you shall see, a little way off, Tiny Mouse
Island (Pulau Tikus Kechil) floating like a flower,
with its white lighthouse for a centre. At a bend
of the road a bold headland juts out bravely, tree-
crowned. At another bend the coast recedes and
curves to form a sweeping beach, palm-fringed,
dotted with boats. Out to sea are the sepia sails
of junks, and beyond them, framing all, loom in
the far distance the violet shadows of the Kedah
hiHs.

PENANG.

The Chinese temple at Ayer Itam is
approached through an unprepossessing collection
of squalid huts, and the granite stairway alone
leads the traveller to suppose that to follow its
massive steps must reveal something worth seeing.
Surmounting them one reaches a wall, and, passing
through its gates, reahses at once that here is not a
temple, but a series of many temples, built in

Bodom Penang.

Ayer Itam Chinese Temple, Penang.

terraces up the hill. On the lowest tier is the
pool where lie, inactive until you buy for them a
bunch of green kangkong herb, dozens of amiable
tortoises, type of that sturdy creature who bears the
world on his back. On the tier above is the gold-
fish pool surrounded by marigold, rose, gallardia
and chrysanthemum in pots. Looking up the hill
one sees, stretching up and up continually, the
ramping roofs, the raking gables of Chinese temple
architecture. On the walls are lettered tablets in
royal blue. The boulders of the hill are incised
with Chinese characters in red. On every hand
are shrines. Brass blazes in sunlight, or warms
the shadows, in urns and jars and gongs and vessels
of all shapes. Temple surpasses temple. In one
a solemn figure broods and compels reverence. In
another laughs a jolly god, and you in turn smile
at his jovial countenance. Side by side sit hideous
and gigantic demons, crushing the wicked under

4>:

- 21 -

:<?=

foot. Everywhere is Buddha — Buddha brass,
Buddha alabaster, Buddha gold leaf, but always
Buddha mysteriously at peace. From the very
top of tops you look down again across the flam-
bo3'ant roofs and see Penang laid beneath you, a
sea of waving palm tops. At length, having
wandered where you will, you are invited to drink
a cup of complimentary tea, and the visitors' book
is laid before you, full of famous names. On the

back to Penang. Choose a different route for the
return, for all Penang's roads are beautiful.

PARIT BUNTAR.

Centre of the Krian district, the largest
agricultural district in the Peninsula, where rice,
coconuts, sugar and rubber are grown in large
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Taiping Lake.

Ipoh.

walls of the tea-room hang the signatures of the
Duke of Connaught, Admiral Togo and Chulalon-
korn of Siam. It is explained to you how each
race of Buddhists has here its own temple, Siamese,
Japanese, Chinese, Burmese or Sinhalese. After
contributing to the fund — for this temple is sadly in
need, with its extravagant passion for building — you
descend again through the tiers of temples, and so

the village is a convenient centre for the shooting,
which is the best in the world, or Bagan Serai may
be chosen for the same purpose.

TAIPING.

This town is the headquarters of the British
administration of the State of Perak and the seat

- 22 -

z
o

REFERENCE.

1 Market

2 District Hospital

3 Police Station

i Service Reservoir

5 Residency

6 Mosque

7 Sikh Temple

8 Malay States Guides Barracks

9 R.C. Church and Convent

10 Sanitary Board and Railway Offices

11 Church of England

12 Rest House

13 Public Office

14 King Edward School

15 Perak Club

16 New Club

17 Treacher Girl School

18 Post Office

19 Gaol

20 Museum

21 Railway Station

22 Buddhist Tentiple

23 Polo Ground

ENGLISH MILES

of the British Resident. It is probably the most
beautiful town in the Peninsula. It possesses a
limpid lake surrounded by public gardens, a race
course, a polo ground, a rifle range, a golf course,
a museum, and cricket and football grounds. The
Malay States Guides, a regiment upkept by the
Malay Sultans as part of their treaty obligations, is
quartered here. It consists of Sikhs and Panjabi
Muhammadans and is officered by British officers.
The central gaol of the Federated Malay States is
in Taiping. On the hills (four hours walking or
three hours carried) are gardens where are grown
English flowers and vegetables. There are several
bungalows on the hills upkept by Government.
Permission to stay in them is to be obtained from
the Secretary to Resident. Chairs and coolies can
be arranged by the firm of Taik Ho & Co. Taiping
is the centre of the famous Larut Plain, where tin
has been successfully mined for the last fifty years.
It is also a centre for some sixty rubber estates.
From it a branch railway runs to the local port,
Port AVeld.

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Taiping Lake,

Phffto by C. W. H.
An English House, Taiping.

KUALA KANGSAR.

This is the seat of His Highness the Sultan of
Perak and headquarters of the Malay administra-
tion. The village is situated on the Perak river
and is remarkably beautiful. The High Commis-
sioner for the Malay States has a residence here,
and here also is the Malay Residential College, a
school for Malays of gentle birth, on the model of
an English public school. The scenery from the
railway between Taiping and Kuala Kangsar is
very fine.

IPOH.

Taking the railway station as a centre, Ipoh, the
commercial capital of Perak, may be thus described.
The resthouse lies on the station road, which runs
straight into the town down a hill. The first turning
on the left leads to the Kuala Kangsar road (Club,
Courts of Justice, English Church, Residency), and
the first turning on the right is the Batu Gajah road
(hospital grounds and Grand Hotel). If we take
neither turning but go down the hill, we pass on
the right the Government offices and Post Office, and
on the left the Padang (recreation ground), the
municipal offices, the banks, and, over against Ihem,

— 23 —

-J=

on the right again, the Birch Memorial Clock
Tower, recently erected to the memory of James
Wheeler Woodford Birch, first British Resident of
Perak, who was assassinated by Malays. Con-
tinuing past this along Hugh Low Street, named
after the second British Resident, we go right
through to the bridge over the Kinta river, passing,
on the right, the pretty People's Park, with its
decorative Chinese temple on the edge, and noting
the Malay mosque opposite it across the river.
Crossing the bridge we continue through the new
town, and when the shop-houses end we swing to
the left down a side street and keep straight on at
right angles to our previous course until we reach
a main road running parallel to Hugh Low
Street. Here we turn left-handed and again cross
the Kinta river, this time by the Birch bridge,
named after the murdered Resident's son, Sir
E. W. Birch, who, thirty years after that crime,
in turn became Resident of Perak. From this
bridge we run straight to the recreation ground,
and, bearing to the right to go round it, pass the
Indian Muhammadan mosque, climb the rise to
the English Church, turn left-handed again, pass
the Club and so arrive back at the railway station.
This round in a rikisha (25 cents, jd.) will give a
very good idea of Ipoh and enable the visitor to
realise that it is by no means necessary that an
Eastern town should be a crazy congeries of filthy
and dilapidated rookeries as so many are. A
pleasant evening's run, also in a rikisha, is along
Hugh Low Street, across the bridge and on until
the road forks. Take the left hand fork and go on
as far as the turn to the racecourse, turn down
this, past the Golf Club, and so bearing left-
handed come back on the same road, but before
reaching the fork branch off lo the right and
re-enter Ipoh by way of Birch bridge and
the Padang. The view from the racecourse

towards the limestone cliffs and the higher hills
of the main range behind them is at all times
beautiful, but perhaps most impressive when a
distant evening thunderstorm majestically proceeds
along them, its black-blue clouds lowering above
the white-splashed rocks, and its whole scheme of
colour shot through and through with those violet
vapours into which darkness at length melts the
dying light of day.

IPOH ROCK TEMPLES.

The nearest rock temples, but by no means
the finest, are at Gunong Chiroh. To reach these,
leave the railway station by the Kuala Kangsar
road and continue right along it till you reach the
level crossing. Do not cross but keep to the right,
and, leaving the marble works on the left, make for
the limestone rock. Nature has so obligingly
disposed the approach that a rikisha can pass along
the track between the rock on the left and
stalactite dropping to meet the rising stalagmite on
the right. But motors must keep to the road
which runs a few yards below, between the pen-
dant white rocks and the yellow Kinta river, bearer
of silt washed out of mines. The first little shrine
is Tamil. Its exterior is not impressive, but
looking behind the outer altar one sees with a little
shock of surprise a tiny glimmering flame set afar
off down the mouth of a black passage in the rock.
Entering the passage, or ever you come to the
bottom thereof, you reach a second altar appar-
ently closing the way, but just enough space has
been left for slim people to slip past and go,
tripping over chance stalagmites, avoiding chance
stalactites, along a dark, gloomy and narrow run
way in the rock, breathing a heavy smell of incense,
and at last arriving at the tiny glimmering flame
which you find fitfully illuminating two tiny gods,
glistening with votive oil, decked with while and

24 -

:J=

o
z
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REFERENCE.

1 Courts

2 Anglican Church

3 Ipoh Club

4 Railway Station

5 Rest House

6 Post and Telegraph Office, and Fire Station

7 Government Offices

8 Police Station (old)

9 Chartered Bank

10 New Market

11 Old Market

12 Hospital

13 Masonic HatI

14 Residency

15 Anderson School (Govt.)

16 Convent

17 Roman Catholic Church (St. Michael's)

18 Chinese Theatre Hall

19 Sub Post Office

20 Golf Club

21 Police Station

22 People's Park

23 Chinese Protectorate

24 Grand Hotel

26 Anglo-Chinese School

26 Methodist Church

27 Howarth, Erskine & Co.'s Foundry

28 Riley, Hargreaves & Co.'s Foundry

29 Abattoirs

30 Harima Cinematograph Hall

31 Protestant Cemetery

32 Hindoo Temple

33 Aerated Water Manufactory (Fraser & Neave's)

34 Ice Factory

35 Birch Club

36 M esq ue

37 Marble Quarry

38 Rifle Range

39 Chinese Theatre

40 Police Station (new)

sacred blossoms — Naga the cobra and Ganesha
the elephant-headed. Hardly envying them their
twilight of the gods you pick your way again
to outer air, contributing your mite to the shrine
as you depart. Thence to the Chinese temple
further along under the cliff where the caves, much,
alas, defiled by detestable signatures in all kinds
of characters, have been adapted to the use
of Chinese shrines. A curious feature here is a
natural stairway gradually being formed by lime-
bearing water which wells out of the living rock
and trickles down over the flight of steps it has
built for itself. This temple, however, is not so
fine as the Chinese temple 3^ miles out on the
Gopeng road. Of that temple it is quite the most
felicitous description to say that its interior is
exactly like a scene in a pantomime.

ROUND THE KINTA VALLEY.

Seeing that he is in the most famous tin-
mining area of the world, it is worth while for the
traveller ^ho halts at Ipoh to take a motor — they
are to be hired in the town — and drive right
round the Kinta Valley which surrounds Ipoh.
Leaving Kinta by the bridge which crosses at the
People's Park, we take the bend to the right and
continue along the Gopeng road. At the 3^ mile
the road winds under the rock where is the temple,
and beyond again the red mining water comes
from the Tekka Mine close to the village of Sungei
Raia, where also is the Kramat Pulai Mine. Both
these are hydraulic. This temple at Gunong Rapat
is far larger than that at Gunong Chiroh and the
ramifications of the caves have been cunningly
adapted to the uses of the temple. It was here that
some years ago proofs were discovered in the soil of
the caves that they had been inhabited by early races
of men in prehistoric ages. Climb to the topmost

shrine, high in the rock, and there through a natural
window look out right across the Kinta Valley to
the Kledang range. Opposite the 63 mile, and
on the left, is the Sungei Raia Mine, beyond the
village. Here the road forks and the left-hand
fork should be avoided, as it is only the old road
now abandoned and covered with tailings from the
mines. At the 63^ mile, take the left fork for
Gopeng. Here is noted how curiously the white
marble of the limestone rocks blushes from reflec-
tion of the laterite soil below. At the hill foot on
the left lies French Tekka Mine, opposite the
64 mile, where also is the Eu Tong Sen's Mine.
Opposite, and on the right, is New Gopeng.
Flumes, launders and pipe lines comprise the
scenery here. At the 65 mile on the left, where
the main road goes on^ is Ulu Gopeng Mine, but
at the 66 mile is another fork to the right up the
hillj which should be taken as it leads to the hill
on which stands the Gopeng resthouse. From
here there is a view of all the valley of Kinta,
upheaved, turned-over, scored, pitted, scarred,
turmoiled by miners, yet not exhausted and still
destined to be worse treated, no doubt. As a
contrast, the little resthouse and the shady trees
of its hill invite us. All round is the view of the
hills, the great splashing scour of the Ulu Gopeng
workings being conspicuous. Below the little
hill lies the village, and through it runs the main
road to Kampar. But Karapar is more easily
reached by rail, so we motor back to the 64 mile
and there turn to the left for Batu Gajah, along
a quiet and pretty road, passing Kellas Estate on
the tawny waters of the Sungei Raia and
crossing the Kinta River where the Raia runs
into it. Crossing the line at Batu Gajah Station,
if time serves we turn to the left to the rest-
house, past which runs the road to the EngUsh
quarter of pretty Batu Gajah, or, alternatively.

— 25 ~

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The Lake and iGardens, Kuala Lumpur.

Kuala Luinpu

we turn to the right and keep on under the
hill on our way back to Ipoh. The first mine just
beyond the 66th mile is Rotan Dahan. Next
comes the village of Fusing, leaving which we keep
to the right, having the Tronoh railway line on the
left. Tronoh is the site of the largest open-cast tin
mine in the world. If visited it is most easily
reached by rail from Ipoh, as there are numerous
trains daily. The hill to the west is the Kledang
range. On one of them is a sanitarium. The
village of Papan soon comes in view in the valley
on the left. The red workings on the hill on the
right here are Fusing Lama Mine, and Fusing
Bahru Mine is near Fusing Station. We reach
Lahat village, and just beyond it is the dumping
ground of the Lahat Mine, and from here are
visible across the railway the smoke stacks of
Fengkalen Mine. The bald spot on the hills
behind Lahat village is Chendai Menglembu Mine.
Menglembu village follows, and finally we run into
Ipoh again by the Sungei Fari Bridge and Grand
Hotel. The above is a 3i-hour run in a motor,
and will occupy a morning nicely.

For an afternoon run we may take the
direction of Tambun, where the scenery is better,
for all the way out from Ipoh we are running past,
towards or beyond the limestone hills. Tambun
Mine (appropriately named, for it means "increase ")
is at the 5 mile. First comes the village and
new Tambun Mine on the right of the road, and
then Tambun itself. A keen eye detects mining
on the face of the cliffs. Close under them, but
hidden in a fold, is a hot spring where before the
days of miners the rhinoceros would bathe. At
the 7 mile is a small and curious rock temple
clinging to the cliff. At the 8 mile is Kinta
Association Mine on the right and Rambutan Mine
on the left. The road runs on to the village of
Tanjong Rambutan, on the railway crossing the
Kinta river, and is due to join up with Chemor
and so with the Kuala Kangsar road and Ipoh.

TAPAH ROAD.

Junction for Telok Anson (Lower Perak) and
Tapah. Telok Anson is a coastwise port and the
centre of the large agricultural district of Lower

4..

—^

26 —

■"f

Perak. Tapah is the centre of the tin mining and
planting district of Batang Padang. Railway motor
service runs from Tapah Road Station to Tapah,
connecting with trains.

KUALA LUMPUR.

As the down train reaches Kuala Lumpur at
6.23 p.m. and leaves again for Singapore at
8.30 p.m. there is an interval of more than two hours,
which should not be filled by dinner, for that is
served on the train as soon as it starts on the night
journey. On the station there are dressing rooms
with bath-rooms attached, where one can take the
usual afternoon bath of the tropics between trains
and start again somewhat refreshed. The same
applies to the up train. It arrives at 6.45 a.m. and
leaves for Penang at 8 a.m., and breakfast is served
on it, so that there is ample time for a bath and
even for a run in a rikisha to see something of
Kuala Lumpur. The station hotel is on the
same side of the station as the European quarter,
and the traveller should leave the station on the
hotel side, for if he leaves it on the other side he
may very well lose his way in the native town. To
see something of Kuala Lumpur between trains,

ChooTner.

Kuala Lumpur.

The Padang, Kuala Lumpur.

Malay Mosque, Kuala Lumpur,

take a rikisha from under the hotel porch and start
off to the left up the hill, leaving the railway bridge
on the left, and keep right on down Damansara
Road. A few minutes' run brings you to the
Museum, on the right, on a bank above the road,
and going past it, for it is too early or too late to
look in, bear right-handed and in between the
pillars of the entrance to the Gardens. Keeping
straight on, you have the Lake on the left and the
hill on the right, whilst all before and around you
a series of most lovely views takes up the morning
or the evening light. Continuing straight on, you
begin to cHmb a hill, up which runs an avenue of
splendid palms ending at the Lake Club. This
you leave on your left, and by a winding road,
still in the Gardens, arrive at the meeting of several
roads known as Seven Dials. From this you
plunge straight on down hill, passing, on the right,
at the bottom, the Volunteer headquarters, and
thence you reach the level crossing. On the right

-1'

station Hote], Kuala Lumpur.

here are two hotels (Grand Oriental Hotel and
Empire) and the resthouse. On the left is the
Anglican Church. Swinging to the right along the
railway, you pass behind the Selangor Club, oppo-
site which, on the other side of the Padang (cricket
ground) is that fine block of Government offices,
which are beautiful in the bright light of early
morning, but more beautiful at night under the
soft-toned glow of electric light. Passing between
the Club and the railway line and continuing
round the Padang, the building on the right is the
Government printing office and next to it is the
Chartered Bank. Round its corner you swing to
the right, and crossing the railway by a bridge, dip
down from that to the railway station again. This
circular run of 2 J miles, with one person in the
rikisha, should not take more than 35 minutes, and
with 50 cents your rikisha man will be satisfied. So,
too, should you be, for you will have seen the best
part of Kuala Lumpur. It is always possible, of
course, to telegraph from Penang or Singapore
before arrival to Kuala Lumpur and have a carriage
or motor awaiting you at the station if you prefer some-
thing more comfortable and speedier than a rikisha.

Kuala Lumpur is the largest town in the
Federated Malay States and the headquarters of
the Federal Administration as also of the Govern-
ment of Selangor. It is divided by the Klang
river into Asiatic and European town. The public
offices stand on the bank of the river and are a fine
pile of buildings. Kuala Lumpur has a golf course,
race course, polo ground, rifle range, cricket and
football grounds, and its English inhabitants live in
the garden city which lies on the low hills above the
river. It may be regarded as a social capital for
the European element in the Federated Malay
States. Sixteen miles from Kuala Lumpur by road
is Dusun Tua, where may be seen one of the
curious hot springs of the country.

KUALA KUBU.

An interesting motor drive which takes the
traveller through the very heart of the wildest, most
untouched, jungles is that from Kuala Lumpur to
Kuala Kubu (or vice versa) through Bentong. It
can be easily managed with the help of the railway

station Hotel, Kuala Lumpur.

V -

— 28 -

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Market

Leper Hospital

District Hospital

Institute for Medical Research

Police Station

Service Reservoir

Residency

Mosque

Sikh Temple

R.C. Church and St. John's Institute

Sanitary Board and Survey Offices

Fire Station

Church of England

M.E. Church

REFERENCE TO PLACES OF IMPORTANCE.

15 Rest House and Hotels

16 Station for Batu Caves

17 Police Barracks

18 Selangor Club

19 Qovernment Offices

20 Post and Telegraph Offices

21 Police Barracks

22 Courts of Justice

23 Chartered Bank

24 Lake Club and Public Gardens

25 F.M.S. Railway Offices

26 Central Police Station

27 General Hospital
'28 Central Market

29 Carcosa Government House

30 Refuse Destructor

31 Chinese Secretariat

32 Gaol

33 Victoria Institute

34 Railway Station and Hotel

35 Museum and Gardens Entrance

36 R.C. Church

37 Convent

38 Hindu Temple

39 Railway Station, Pudoh.

40 European Hospital

41 Buddhist Temple

■^

in one day, the motor part of it occupying between
9 a.m. and 5 p.m. It is possible to leave Kuala
Lumpur in a motor at 9 a.m. and reach Kuala
Kubu in time to return to Kuala Lumpur by the 5.8
which reaches Kuala Lumpur by 7.7 p.m., and it is
equally possible to leave Kuala Kubu in a motor
at 7 a.m., arrive Kuala Lumpur at 3 p.m. and return
to Kuala Kubu by the 3.46 arriving 6.32, which-
ever fits in best with the traveller's arrangements.
In any case the motor will have to be railed to or
from Kuala Lumpur if it is hired there for the drive.
Supposing that Kuala Lumpur is the starting point,
we run out of the town by the Batu road and on
the hill above Setapak village take the Bentong
turn and get there a glimpse of the barrier of hills
through which we are to penetrate. Soon we reach
the valley of the Gombak's upper water and pass
the power station where Kuala Lumpur generates its
electric light. Beyond it a pipe-line goes up into
the hills and down into the valleys beneath, and
almost as soon as we lose it we are at the 23 mile
or top of the first pass, the Ginting Sempah. Here
without pause begins a long descent which lasts as
far as Bentong. Though the water on the Pahang

Kuala Lumpur Railway Station,

Nakajima. Kuala. Lumpur.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur.

side is stained with mining high up in the hills, the
long river vista past which the road runs before
reaching Bentong is very fine. Bentong, a little
mining village on the river of the same name, should
be reached about noon. Lunch can be procured
at the resthouse there if a wire has been sent ahead
to order it. At Bentong you realise that you are
on the other side of the Peninsula, for the river falls
into the Semantan, the Semantan falls into the
Pahang and the Pahang river discharges into the
China Sea. Leaving Bentong the ascent begins
again through a section of bamboo jungle, but
drops again to reach the little villages of Tranum
and Tras. Here we turn to the left and begin to
mount again. At the 28 mile begins to blow a
breeze which started in the China Sea and is going
to end in the Straits of Malacca. It is deliciously
cool and the views on both sides of the ridge along
which the road runs are magnificent. The Gap
resthouse should be reached at 3 p.m., and there

— 29 —

Kunia Lumpur.

Astana of the Sultan of Selangor at Klang

will be perhaps
time for tea
and to admire
the roses and
dahlias which
grow so well
at this height
of about 2,900
feet. From

here we drop
steadily down
on a very good
and quite broad
road to Kuala
Kubu.

Throughout this drive it is advisable to have the
hood of the motor down as much as possible, or
much of the scenery is lost. Though the grades
are never worse than i in 26 and are mostly r in 30
or I in 40, the road is winding. On the whole
length of it there is motor-bus traffic, and also
bullock-carts, so that it demands careful driving and
good brakes. The advantage of going from Kuala
Lumpur to Kuala Kubu, and not the other way, is
that the most formidable section, Kuala Lumpur to
the Ginting Sempah pass, is taken uphill.

BATU CAVES.

On the Padang, at Kuala Lumpur, behind the
Selangor Club, is a wayside station (close to the
Empire and F.M.S. hotels) at which stop all trains
to the Batu Caves, and there are five trains in the
day there and five back. The run is a little over
half-an-hour through pretty country on the outskirts
of Kuala Lumpur. The line was built to serve the
railway workshops half-way to and the stone quarry
near the caves. Looking to the front of the train
after leaving Kent Station you find it running

straight at the base of the huge limestone cliffs
which have gleamed white in the distance most of
the way. Leaving the station and following the
road, take the first turn to the left and continue
along a few steps until, again on the left, you find a
path through the rubber plantation where, if it be
early, you will pass coolies tapping the trees. This
leads to the steps for the caves, and a somewhat
steep pull lands you under the outer arch of an
" autre vast." Turn and look out at the view from
the cave-mouth whilst you recover breath, and then
descend into the great outer hall. These caves are
not inhabited and there are no temples in them, as
there are in the Ipoh caves. The trivial graffiti
of all races, nations and languages, disfiguring
though they be, have not availed to rob these caves
of their native majesty. The green-blue metallic
shades painted upon the rock by some lowly
moss contrast with the pure white of the majestic
marble hollowed out in smooth depressions by
the age-long action of water. From the soaring
top depend strange icicles in lime. The cave is
duplicate. The second hall is roofless and open to
the sky. Here you shall look up and high, high

Malacca.

Malacca River.

4>:

■^

on the brim of this great white cup, see monkeys
scrambling. Higher and higher they go, hand over
hand, swarming up the ropes of the creepers' roots
which hang over the dizzy edge, clambering over
the rock cornices till they reach the dwarfed, ill-
nourished bushes which nod into the air over the
edge of the vortex where the swallow has made a
nest. The blue sky is like a cloth drawn over all,
and across it there floats from time to time a
butterfly. Returning, as you mount to the cave-
mouth the ground rings hollow under foot and
argues other unknown depths beneath. Half-way
down the steps is a rough track to the right which
leads to another cave inhabited by bats, white
snakes, frogs, toads and a very vile smell. This
cave den extends 887 yards into the bowels of the
rock before ever you come to the bottom. It is
dark and dirty walking and should only be
attempted with a guide and lights, but the entrance
at least may be visited. To see the caves takes
about an hour, and unless you have a carriage or
motor from Kuala Lumpur ready you must wait
another couple of hours for the next train back.

Ishii.

Malacca.

The Stadthaus, Malacca.

Christ Church, Malacca.

KLANG.

Residence of His Highness the Sultan of
Selangor and centre of a famous planting district.
Port Swettenham is its port. North and south of
it lie Kuala Selangor and Kuala Langat, also great
planting districts.

SEREMBAN.

Headquarters of the Negri Sembilan Govern-
ment, a tin mining town, but also centre of a large
planting district. This is the junction for Port
Dickson, a health resort on the coast, with a
sanitarium bungalow (permission from District
Officer, Coast, Port Dickson).

MALACCA.

Arriving at Malacca by rail one finds the
station to be a short quarter mile from the town.
From the platform are visible the twin towers of the
French Mission's Church and the hill of Saint Paul
with its ruined church and signal station. The
railway resthouse is alongside the station. Rikishas
are the conveyance here and are more suited to
Malacca's narrow streets than gharis. The route to
the bridge, whither all traffic from the railway station

31 —

:'J=

■^

4':

^:^
s^y

St. Paul's,
Malacca,
East End.

P/ioia by

Nakajimct^

Kuala Lumpur.

The architecture of the street is difficult
to describe. Suffice it to say that each
house is a long narrow box, whose
front on the street is a verandah, not a
verandah appropriated to foot traffic,
but a verandah closed-off from next
door by a partition of brick. The
partition usually has a window in it,
round, oval or square in shape, and the
front of the house is sure to be either
painted with Chinese pictures or carved
or adorned with pottery figures. Not
all the buildings are private dwellings.
Some are temples. There is not one
building like another; they differ in
width, in depth, in height, in design, in

tends, is past two JVlalay mosques and
up Jonker Street. The town is quite
small and, except for its curiosity
shops, presents few features of interest
besides Jonker Street and Heeren
Street. Of these the former is a pale
copy of the latter. In Jonker Street it
is true that the old farm building bears
date 1673, but the street as a whole
cannot compare with Heeren Street.
This street has a distinctive character
entirely its own. It is long, supposed
to be straight, is undoubtedly narrow,
and formed of two rows of Chinese
houses, of which the second row backs
on to the sea and is built out on piles.

St. Paul's,

Malacca,

West End.

Photo by

I^akajima,

Kuala Lmn/ntr.

1^^
^

:J=

- 32 -

<€-

colour, in ornament. Yet withal they form such a
harmonious collection that the eye is delighted with
their diverse similarity. Heeren Street is the Park
Lane of Malacca, for none but the richest of
Chinese live here.

The Stadthaus, erected by the Dutch and still
used as Government offices, stands, built into the
hill, opposite the bridge and divided by a narrow
street from Christ Church. It shows a modest
nobility of character. The clock tower in front is
of modern erection but exactly to the design of an
ancient Portuguese clock tower once on that same
site. The two weather vanes at either end are of
handsome design, as is that on Christ Church hard
by. The Stadthaus lies open for inspection, but
hardly possesses much of interest for a visitor.
There are a few pieces of carving visible, especially
the ceiling, brought from Holland, in the Land
Office, and an extraordinary collection of chairs, of
old pattern and perhaps old actually, in the Supreme
Court room. These are paralleled in Christ Church,
where it has been the practice for centuries for
each worshipper to bring his own chair. A
Chinese carpenter in Malacca, if you order a chair
of him and give him no directions, will produce
one of these old-fashioned shapes.

Ishii, Malacca,

Gateway at Malacca.

Church of St. Peter, Malacca.

Alongside the
Stadthaus are set up
on the wall which
supports the hill foot
some ancient Portu-
guese coats of arms
in stone, wrongly
attributed by a tablet
to the first King of
Portugal. Another
tablet commemorates
the Diamond Jubilee
of Queen Victoria,
1897, and yet
another the visit of
the Marquis of Dal-
housie in 1850. But no tablet explains the.
hideous stone image beyond them all. It is a
" Makara, a monster of Hindu mythology, the
sole surviving relic of the time when the Ruler
of Malacca was still a Hindu," and should date
from 1403 or earlier; It is therefore the oldest
work of men's hands in Malacca.

Christ Church was built in 1750 by the Dutch,
who, until that date, had used for Protestant
worship the Portuguese Church on the hill, though
after that date they used the hill church for interment
only. Christ Church possesses some remarkable
silver vessels, which may be catalogued as
follows : —

A pair of silver communion cups, one pre-
sented by the ship Mermaid, with hall-mark
attributed to Batavia, and dated 1750.

A silver dish, also Batavian, ten inches across,
of the same date.

A silver inkstand, with inkwell and sandbox,
of ancient date,

4>:

Kuala Lu-mpur,
Nossa Senhora da Annunciada. Malacca.

A plain heavy silver chalice of local work
of the English period.

A pair of silver salvers, believed to be Dutch,
twelve inches square.

A pair of round dishes, Madras work,
probably presented to this church by the Dutch
in India, repousse, covered with figures of Indian
animals, the centre a snake, very curious.

Amongst its other treasures are the Dutch
bible, bearing date 1762, and the brass lectern
in the pulpit, centre engraved on both sides,
showing that it was given by Jan Crans, the
Dutch Governor in 1773, bearing the first verse
of St. John's Gospel in Dutch, probably engraved
by a German soldier in Batavia, as the wording
shows German influence. On the font lies, when
christenings take place, a shallow plate of silver
presented by a Dutch lady in 1668. This plate
bears the cross fleuri and four martlets which
appear also on her tombstone in Saint Paul's in
the arms of Juffrou Maria Bort, who married
Nicholas MuUer. There is also a very curious

brass font pedestal, exceedingly heavy, believed to
be Malay work. The design of this pedestal is
most beautifully proportioned. The fifty-foot span
of the flat roof is remarkable, the timber being
very fine originally and still perfectly sound. The
old-fashioned musicians' gallery still exists at the
west end. The reredos is modern but very successful
Florentine mosaic. The floor is full of tombstones,
removed, to preserve them, from the roofless
church on the hill. The church is always open
and its possessions are shown, for a small fee, to
visitors.

Leaving Christ Church and continuing along
between the river mouth and the hill, passing the
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, and the new
harbour works out to sea, we reach the jetty. If it
be still standing (at this moment its fate is doubt-
ful) the view from the seaward end gives that

Ishii,

Screen in the possession of the Government
at Malacca. Period 1650.

4>:

.J>

beautiful panorama of Malacca from the sea which
has at all periods delighted travellers. Let the eye
start from Pulau Upeh on the left and pass along
the coast, beginning with the fringe of palms,
continuing along the red roofs of the jumbled city,
much of it on piles over the sea, with its green,
blue, white and terra-cotta houses, over the river
mouth and the sepia sails of native craft as far as
the white bank building, then up and down the hill
with its flagstaff and signal tower in white clapped
against the mouldering blacks and greys of the
carcase of Saint Paul's, from whose wall-tops grow
desolate bushes where should be the roof. Beneath
the hill lie the old-fashioned houses built by the
Dutch. Between them and the sea comes the
exquisite emerald of the lawns under the huge dark
green trees, the whole emphasized and thrown up
by the red-brown sea-wall against which laps a
sighing tide. A dark shadow to the right of the
houses marks the ancient gateway. Beyond it
come houses, the Malay training college, the rest-
house, then more houses backing on the sea, and,
lastly, a fringe of coconuts again. The island
opposite the hill is Pulau Jawa. It is awash at
high tides. Pulau Upeh is to the north of the
river mouth, a much larger island showing a splash
of red colour under its green covering. Far to
the south are more islands, Pulau Besar, Pulau
Bureng, and others.

The i8-pounder cannon at the shore end of
the pier bears date 1803 and the monogram of
George III. The small obelisk commemorates
those who, in the ist Goorkha L.I., the ist
Battalion H.M.'s loth Foot and the Arab Contin-
gent during the Sungei Ujong war of 1875 lost
their lives on active service against the Malays.

Continuing round the hill we reach the old
gateway, with its tablet too confidently attributing

^ater from Bukit China, Malacca.

it to Afonso de Albuquerque. The inner and the
outer side of the gateway are similar except that
the outer side has a bell turret and its two little
towers have survived better than those of the inner
side. Between the pillars of the gateway, on both
sides, is a curious device in plaster relief. A shield,
charged with a galleon, has two supporters, one
a female figure of Peace with the olive branch, and
the other a male figure of War, in armour, holding
a sword passed through a crown. The date visible
on the outer side, but lost on the inner, is 1670 —
a Dutch date. Behind the shield is arranged
a trophy of arms, such as pistols, guns, flags, axes,
swords. No explanation of this addition to the
fortress is known, but its elaborate, not to say
excessive, ornamentation is quite in accordance
with the fashion of its day, and can be paralleled in
Java in monuments of the period.

The structure of the gateway itself is curious.
On the complete plan of the fortress, built thirty or
forty years after Afonso de Albuquerque, no such
gateway is shown. All that is shown at this point
is one of the several oval-headed entries pierced in
the wall. It is curious enough that if we stand on
the east of the ancient gateway itself there is very

— 35 —

Penang-Singapore Mail Train.

plainly visible on the east side an oval-headed entry
pierced in the wall, forming part of the original
structure of the wall, but later filled with laterite
blocks and its outside plastered over. The inner
side of this entry is a winding oval-headed passage,
which came out through the west wall of the gate-
way, but is now blocked up. The suggestion is
therefore put forward that originally the wall had a
passage deviously built through it, whose outer and
inner entrances were these oval-headed entries, as
shown on the plan, and that later this greater
gateway was superimposed by the Dutch at this
point, and the wall cut through to admit of the wide
passage through the gateway which now exists.
Another structural mystery is visible to a person
standing on the east of the gateway in that the
whole block divides as thus seen into three parts, a
centre solid wall (pierced by the now blocked
passage) laid back from the perpendicular so that
the outer face has a slope. On to this wall have
been clapped the back and the front of the gate-
way, whose faces are perpendicular and their backs
sloping, so that, seen in section, their base is
narrow and their top broad. The turrets on the

gateway are brick. The wall against which the
gateway leans is laterite stone. The roof of the
devious oval-headed passage is stone. The roof
of the gateway is brick. The question at once
arises — are the little narrow flat bricks Dutch only,
or did the Portuguese use a similar brick ? A
trustworthy answer to that question would solve
many an archaeological problem in Malacca. All
about the ancient gateway in the crevices of the
stone grows maidenhair fern. Of all the matchless
Malacca, a fortress second only to Goa, there
remains just this old gate, though bastion Santiago
can be placed, on the edge of the sea, in a line with
the gate, for there are still a few blocks of stone
under the grass, and the eye of faith can even
discern the shape of the bastion's angle.

Continuing along Fort Terrace — which is on
the site of the vanished fortress wall — we come to
the old cemetery where the officers who died in
the Naning War in 1831 are commemorated by an
obelisk. The tombs here are mostly of the English
period. Opposite the cemetery is the Police
Station, at whose entrance lie laterite blocks
marking the course of the walls still, nor is it
difficult to trace them through the grounds and
across the road on the other side of the Police
Station until the modern French Church obliterates
the last traces.

Though the fortress itself was a strong place,
the Portuguese were not content with it alone, and
on Saint John's Hill — which is a few minutes away
along the road down the coast — they built a fort.
This is now in stone and brick, and it is not known
whether, as it stands, it is Portuguese or Dutch.
The inscription over the entrance was stolen by
some local Goth, and no record of what it said now
remains. The best access to this fort is by turning
to the left at the gaol and following that road to

-J-

— 36 —

MALACCA RIVER.

■^

the cross-roads, from which there is an easy track
up along the crest of the hill as far as the fort.
The view is superb. Malacca Hill is to the west,
crowned by the ruined church, and on the east,
thirty-two miles distant, is Mount Ophir, and
between that and us are padi-fields and coconut
palms. This fortification is shown on the old plan,
and the palisades (Tranquerah) which ran from it
are also shown.

In this same neighbourhood is Bukit China, a
long series ,of low hills thickly covered with Chinese
graves. In Portuguese times there were buildings —
churches, convents, monasteries — on these hills, but
there is no trace of them now, unless we account as
part of them the " old military well " next to the
modern Chinese temple at the west end of Bukit
China. This is a very ancient well indeed, if it be,
as is not at all impossible, the well shown on the
plan of the original fortress and 'on the 1 604 plan
also. The water of the wells of Bukit China is
esteemed superior to that of the town supply and
is readily sold at one cent a bucket.

The Portuguese Church of Saint Peter, outside
the town on the way back from Bukit China, is
believed to be almost coeval with the fortress. It
contains, however, but few relics of the past, except
its two holy water stoups of antique design and of
a stone, which can also be found in the Stadthaus,
of a kind not native to Malaya. The date on the
bell is 1698, and it bears a Latin prayer. It is to
be regretted that the church has been so lavishly
whitewashed inside that the only traces of the
frescoes which it once possessed are on one of the
pillars. It may be that the coats of whitewash
conceal and perhaps preserve frescoes more
elaborate than those whose vestiges are visible.

Returning to the town from the Portuguese
Church we pass, a little off the road, close to the

^m-

^^^^^^^^^^^^^■■j-;'>*- ,■>, '

'^^^'^M

fi:W

^^S^P^' *^ fl

Ishii

Malacca.

Buffalo Ploughing.

river, the remains of an old church called San
Louren^o to-day, but thought to have borne in the
past a different title. It is now in utter ruin, roof-
less, its pillars and walls alone standing, and one
tombstone remaining in the floor.

The local Malay industries of Malacca are
baskets and lace, specimens of which are often
brought round for sale.

Malacca, or the outskirts of it, is full of beautiful
drives between which it is hardly possible to judge,
but perhaps the road to Tanjong Kling is the most
beautiful. The Government Bungalow at Tanjong
Kling is seven miles out, and can be occupied if a
permit be got from the Resident- Collector. Every-
thing necessary, except food, is provided, and there
is a caretaker in charge. Sea-bathing can safely
be enjoyed, as an enclosure for it has been made.
The house stands on a small hill and catches the
breeze from the sea. From under the trees on the
lawn is a beautiful view of the coast back as far as
the town of Malacca. The seven miles between
Malacca and Tanjong Kling runs through Malay

— 37 —

-J'

Kuala Lumpur,

Chinese Architecture.

kampongs bordering the sea, 'and on the landward
side are the padi-fields. Some of these kampongs
have been bought by wealthy Chinese, who have
erected imposing country villas surrounded by
beautiful gardens. Though the festivities on New
Year's day in Malacca bring in bullock-carts by
hundreds and Malays by thousands, any day in the
year one may see along the Tanjong Kling road
picnic parties of brightly dressed Malays in bullock-
carts drawn by the nimble Malacca cattle. The
Malacca Malay looks happier and is usually of a
handsomer type than that found anywhere else in
the Peninsula, possibly for the reason that for just
four centuries he and his forebears have enjoyed
settled government. The beauty of the women of
the Portuguese community is remarkable.

The streets of Malacca are narrow and noisy.
It is a relief in the evening to hear the last clash
of six on the bell in the signal station on the
hill with the bell of the clock tower -opposite
the Stadthaus, and to climb to Nossa Senhora da
Annunciada. With the echoes of the city's
clamour still in our ears we enter into silence and
the empty hulk which was once a church ; where
once lay, as the inscription records, the body of
Saint Frangois Xavier, S.J., the Apostle of the Far

East, before its translation to Goa in 1553 ; whose
choir's voices have yielded to the twitter of the
swallow, to the rush of the wings of the spine-tailed
swift. As night draws in there settles down in this
old, sad, maimed, misused, abandoned fane a
silence we do not care to break. The place
has been much abused. The east end was
at one time turned into a military magazine.
On the outside of the west end is a very ugly
tower bearing a fixed light. The roof has entirely
disappeared. Windows have been bricked up and
doors opened out to suit the needs of four centuries
of Portuguese and Dutch and EngUsh. Yet some
of them cared for the old place, since repairs,
with small bricks, are visible everywhere, but the
words of Ruskin were written too late for it :
" Watch an old building with anxious care ; guard
it as best you may, and at any cost, from any
influence of dilapidation. Count its stones as you
would the jewels of a crown. Set watchers about
it, as if at the gates of a besieged city ; bind it
together with iron when it loosens ; stay it with
timber when it declines. Do not care about the
unsightliness of this aid — better a crutch than a
lost limb ; and do this tenderly and reverently and
continually, and many a generation will still be
born and pass away beneath its shadow." Many of
the tombstones, chiefly of the Dutch period, have
been removed to Christ Church for preservation,
but many remain " mementoes of mortality unto
living passengers." A soft turf covers the floor
and deadens the sound of any footstep. The old
building stands solitary. At one time there were
a number of others on the hill, now there are
none except the Residency, with its old-world
garden, on the site of the Church of St. Anthony
and Convent of the Augustinians. The steps
which led up the hill have disappeared under the
turf. The south slope outside the east end of the

i?=

I'f

church carries a number of forgotten graves. It is
sad that there cannot be traced at present any
plate or drawing to show what was the original
appearance of " the church which because Afonso
de Albuquerque was very much devoted to Our
Lady he ordered his men to build, and gave it the
name of Nossa Senhora da Annunciada."

The scenery on that section of the railway
which lies between Rembau Station and Malacca
is, without doubt, the most beautiful on the whole
line, especially the piece between Malacca and
Tampin. It is, therefore, a pity to reach and
return from Malacca by the night trains, since the
views are lost. The road runs alongside the
railway most of the way, and is, for scenery, the
fairest in the Peninsula. The distant blue hills,
the rice-fields, the Malay orchards, every now
and then a bright river, or ponds full of lotus
provide views which will never be forgotten.

KUALA LUMPUR TO SINGAPORE.

What some account , the best dinner in the
Malay Peninsula is served on the train after leaving
Kuala Lumpur. It is advisable to defer going to
bed until Seremban is reached at half-past ten, as
passengers enter and alight there, but after
Seremban the very comfortable beds invite us. As
the speed over this section is not more than
twenty miles an hour it is not difiScult to sleep,
and, the temperature falling at night, it is cool.

It is unfortunate that the traveller, whether
going up or down the line, must pass during the
night the beautiful views of the Rembau valleys,
but with that exception the section between Johore
Bahru and Kuala Lumpur is quite uninteresting
and just as well passed in the night, nor is much
lost by passing up at night across the island of
Singapore to the ferry across Johore Strait to

Nakajlma.. Kuala Lujnpur.

Tapping Para Rubber.

Johore Bahru. Going
down, the train reaches
the ferry (as at Penang,
the launch which
ferries passengers and
baggage is part of the
train, and no attention
need be devoted to
baggage, for it will be
brought across and
re-entrained) at seven
o'clock, and the
traveller sees some-
thing of the interior
of the island of Singa-
pore. The principal station. Tank Road, is some-
what inconveniently situated at present too
far from the centre of the town, but one may
reckon on reaching a hotel with the baggage
a little after nine, in time for bath and
breakfast. It is advisable to telegraph from
Kuala Lumpur for rooms, in which case the
hotel runner will meet the train and take the
baggage. But in any case the gharis and rikishas
will take you to the centre of Singapore without
direction.

SINGAPORE.

The early history of Singapore rests upon
tradition, and from this it seems to be established
that " leaving Palembang in Sumatra, some Malays
settled in Singapore about 1360 a.d., under Sang
Nila Utama. The latest authoritative account of
this settlement describes the ancient kingdom of
Singapore or Tamasek as a mere offshoot of the
State of Palembang, which did not last for any
length of time, but came to a sudden and terrible
end in the year of the great Javanese invasion,
1377 A.D. The legends connected with the fall of
the city of Singapore on this occasion suggest that

— 39 —

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Nakajima.

Kttata Lumpur.

Para Rubber Drying.

it was effected with terrible bloodshed.'' The name
itself has inspired many and often fantastic attempts
at explanation by philologists, Malay and European.
Nothing seems better than the obvious interpreta-
tion that Singapura is two Sanskrit words, that
Singha is Sanskrit for "lion " and Pura for " city,"
that the word means City of the Lion, and that the
name was magniloquently given to it to bring it
good luck by Sanskrit-using settlers from the
Hindu- Malayan Empire of Java and its dependency
Sumatra. It is believed that its more ancient name
was Tamasek, but that is now utterly lost. How-
ever great be the ancient renown of the City of
Singapore in local tradition, it was so little
accounted of in later times that in 1703 the Raja
of Johore offered it to a Captain Hamilton, who
declined the present, though he remarked that it
was " a proper place to settle a colony in, lying in
the centre of trade and accommodated with good
rivers and a safe harbour, so conveniently situated
that all winds serve shipping both to go out and
come into these rivers." This description of
Singapore has never been bettered, and it agrees

with the remark of an earlier Portuguese writer that
to Singapore " resorted all the navigators of the
Western seas of India, and of the Eastern of Siam,
China, Campa and Cambodia, as well as of
thousands of islands to the eastward." So long as
the Dutch held Malacca, which they did until
1795, there was no object for them in founding
another great city on the Peninsula, though the
anchorages at Singapore were much superior to
those at Malacca, and the size of ships was growing.
But in 18 1 8, threatened by the British with a loss
of their monopoly in the Peninsula, they occupied a
post in Rhio, one of the islands visible from
Singapore to the south. At that time the British
were already in Penang, so the position was that
Penang was British, Malacca Dutch and Rhio
Dutch. Clearly it was expedient for Britain to cut
in between Rhio and Malacca. On the 19th
August, 1 8 18, therefore. Major Farquhar, sub-
ordinate of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, made a
treaty providing for mutual liberty of navigation
and commerce in the ports and dominions of
Johore, Pahang, Linggi, and Rhio and other
places subject to the Sultan of Johore, this
including Singapore. Sir Stamford Raffles was at
that time Lieutenant-Governor of Bencoolen
(Sumatra). From there he wrote to the Honour-
able East India Company in Bengal urging the
acquisition not of Singapore but of Bentan
(Bintang), an island opposite. He spoke of a
simple commercial station with a military guard to
force free trade upon the Dutch or to collect the
trade under the British flag. He followed the
letter in person and returned as Agent to the Most
Noble the Governor-General with the States of
Rhio, Lingin and Johore to occupy some central
station in the Archipelago. On February 6th, 18 19,
Raffles signed with Johore plenipotentiaries the
necessary treaty ceding Singapore and hoisted the

4>:

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British flag " on the site of the ancient maritime
capital of the Malays." " It is a child of
my own," he wrote, and " bids fair to be one of
the most important (Colonies) and at the same time
one of the least expensive and troublesome which
we possess. Our object is not territory, but trade :
a great commercial emporium and a fulcrum
whence we may extend our influence, politically, as
circumstances may hereafter require. One free
port in these seas must eventually destroy the spell
of Dutch monopoly." Meanwhile, the spell of His
Netherlands Majesty's armaments at Batavia had
rattled the resolution of the Supreme Government
in Calcutta, who sent after Raffles a letter of
countermand. This he received after founding
Singapore. Penang sent him no assistance, and
only in 1822 did Great Britain recognise Singapore,
for not until that date did its Government realise
that the " long long thoughts " of Raffles were
destined to work out the commercial salvation of
England in these seas. The subsequent history of
Singapore is that of a growing commercial free
port, but up to the invention of steam the trade
was much harassed by Malay piratical prahus which
infested the Singapore Straits, the islands, the
coast of the Peninsula and the adjacent seas.
Piracy was in those days the only career for a
Malay of spirit, and it offered all the glorious
uncertainties of war, of sport and of commerce.
It was no uncommon thing in those days for ships
and junks to sail to or from Singapore and no man
see them more. Attacked off some river-mouth
trading settlement by Malay prahus, rowing thirty
a side, often cunningly disguised as fishing boats,
or else when becalmed at sea and openly set upon
by native craft whose lightness took advantage of
the failing breeze, the smaller Chinese, Indian and
English trading craft ran risks which to-day seem
almost incredible. When overpowered, their crews

were either massacred or carried away into slavery,
or merely turned adrift, the ships gutted of every
article of value and themselves plundered ot
provision, of water and even of clothing, to die of
privation, or to make if they could some not
inhospitable harbour. The British did what
they could to suppress piracy, but until the inven-
tion of steam vessels no real suppression was
possible. The first encounter between the paddle
steamer Diana and a fleet of five pirate boats is on
record. When the Malays first sighted the steamer
they thought she was a sailing ship afire, so they
joyously sailed towards her, encouraged in
the idea that she was helpless by the fact
that she lay still and waited for them. The first
Malay prahu was allowed to range alongside and
there sunk. This did not deter the others, but
when the ship afire began to sail towards them
against the wind the pirates were horrified at such
an unnatural proceeding and began to disperse.
The " Diana " caught them up one by one, and —
there was a great killing of pirates.

Pirates, run-
ning amuck, and
convicts, for it was
a penal settlement
for India, were the
chief drawback to
Singapore in those
early days. The
second was sup-
pressed by the
prohibition of

weapon carrying
and by the better
administrative
conditions which

obtained there NakaJUna. Kuala Lumpur.

than in the Malay para Rubber Fruiting.

— 41

'.^

Singapore,

Cavena^h Bridge, Singapore.

States, where " mengamok " was the only outlet for
feelings outraged by oppression, cruelty, misfortune
or insult. Running amuck is very uncommon nowa-
days in Malaya, but it will always occur amongst
Malays occasionally, for they are very prone to
hysteria. The history of " mengamok " is always
the same, and the long and short of it is that the
" pengamok" loses his temper with the world and
falls into a bloody fury. Seizing the first available
weapon he attacks anyone whom he meets, man,
woman or child, with equal ferocity, and he kills
and kills until he is himself killed, or until he is
captured, or until people to kill have made them-
selves so scarce that he cannot get at them. The
desired end of a " pengamok " is death in a furious
fight, where he may end all in an exaltation of mind.
This end is in some sense heroic in circumstances
which admit no other remedy. But to be carefully
disarmed by entirely competent poHce,to be lengthily
tried for common murder, and to be solemnly
hanged by the neck until dead is an end so little
desired by any one and so certain nowadays that the

romance which to the Malay mind once hung about
"mengamok" has faded, and running amuck is no
longer a commonplace of Malaya.

Steamers entering Singapore from the west pass
between the west end of Blakang Mati Island
on the right and Fort Pasir Panjang, on the
island of Singapore, on the left. Blakang Mati,
which is a very hilly island, extends from the
harbour limit on the west at foot of Fort Pasir
Panjang to Mount Palmer on the east, a distance
of nearly two miles, and forms a natural
breakwater to the wharves on the Singapore side.
The waters enclosed between the islands of
Blakang Mati and Singapore, formerly known as
New Harbour, are now called Keppel Harbour,
after Admiral Keppel, who discovered this deep
water anchorage. Blakang Mati is strongly
fortified and possesses a considerable garrison,
whose large and commodious barracks now form
an outstanding feature of the island. Close to
Blakang Mati, still on the right hand side of the
channel, there lies the island of Pulau Brani,
which is the headquarters of the Royal Engineers.
On this island are the famous tin-smelting works
belonging to the Straits Trading Company,
the tall chimneys of which form conspicuous
landmarks.

Here the bulk of the tin smelted in the
Malay Peninsula is treated. The village which
sits on the sea and is so picturesquely nestled
under the island is inhabited by the descendants
of the sea gypsies, a Malay tribe which, from a
time when the memory of man runneth not to
the contrary until quite recently, lived in boats
and picked up an honest or a piratical living from
the sea as occasion served.

-J^

■^

On the left hand side, just before we enter
Keppel Harbour, stands Pasir Panjang Fort on
the top of a hill. Below, on the water's edge,
stands the obelisk which marks the harbour limit.
Then comes the promontory of Bukit Chermin,
crowned with two houses. Chermin means glass,
and the name was no doubt given owing to the
clearness — splendidior vitro — of the water round
this hill. Then we pass a jungle-covered hilly islet,
Pulau Hantu, the island of ghosts, and come to
the first of the series of wharves constructed on this
shore, Keppel Harbour Docks. Here we have
the Eastern Extension Cable Station, two graving
docks and the generating station and the
splendidly equipped electrical workshops of the
Tanjong Pagar Dock Board. At the east end
of this wharf there has been constructed what
is one of the largest graving docks in the
world, 894 feet long and 100 feet wide, with a
depth on sill of 34 feet. Behind this stands the
signalling station, on the top of a hill about 300
feet high, called Mount Faber, from which one of
the finest views of Singapore Harbour and the
outlying islands can be obtained, a prospect which
on no account should be missed.

We next come to the P. & O. Wharf, the
only privately run wharf remaining in Singapore.
It has berthage for two big steamers, and the
P. & 0. mail boats come alongside this wharf
regularly once a fortnight, both outwards and
homewards.

On landing here, we find three available
modes of reaching the centre of Singapore town,
which is four miles to the east, namely, the ghari
(hackney carriage), fare $1, the rikisha, fare 40
cents, or the electric tram, fare 15 cents. The
gharis and rikishas will be in waiting at the wharf,
but to reach the tram it will be necessary to walk

NaJiajiTjia. Kuala Lumpur.

Collecting Latex from Para Rubber Trees.

rather less than a quarter of a mile (turn to the
right on leaving the wharf and cross railway).

Leaving the P. & O. wharf we pass a small
hill called St. James, on which there is a large
house belonging to the Straits Trading Company.
At the base of this hill, on the land side,
there is a typical Malay kampong, or village,
the centre of a considerable sarong weaving
industry, known as Kampong Jago. After
passing St. James we come to a little inlet of the
sea, with Jardine's Wharf on the eastern side.
This wharf is private property still, but is let to
the Tanjong Pagar Dock Board on a long lease.
The military ferry to Blakang Mati and Pulau
Brani starts from here. Sampans (boats) can
also be easily obtained here to take one across
to these islands. Jardine's Wharf is practically
the beginning of what is now a long continuous
wharf, over a mile in length. The whole of
this wharf is to be straightened and reconstructed
in concrete. The work is being carried out in
sections, and one section of 600 feet, the old
Borneo Wharf, has already been completed. Here

4>:

— 43 —

.J=

€

the Japanese, the Messageries and the German
Lloyd mail steamers go alongside.

East of this again is the entrance to the wet
lagoon dock now in construction, an enormous
excavation flanked by a titanic wall. Beyond this,
still to the east, comes No. 6, where the Blue
Funnel Holt Steamers lie, followed by Nos. 5,
4 and 3, occupied by cargo steamers of all kinds.
No. 2 is where the British India boats lie with the
English mail. Beyond it are the Tanjong Pagar
Docks offices, and finally No. i Section, for cargo
steamers.

As we go along the road we remark on
the right a little hill crowned with a building
of evidently sacred character. The entrance
to this place is along a green lane, Palmer Road,
on the sea side of the main road. This runs
through a small Malay village and ends at the
Palmer Godowns, close to which are a Chinese
temple, and, on the little hill, the tomb of a local
saint, surrounded by a Malay cemetery. All such
places are called in Malay " Kramat," from a
corruption of the term " pulang karahmat Allah "
(returned to the mercy of God), which is used to
describe the death of a Muhammadan, and this
place is accordingly known as the Kramat Habib
Noh. The grave of Habib Noh is in a chamber
at the top of a flight of steps, but it presents no
feature of interest. The Chinese temple close at
hand is, however, a good specimen of Chinese
temple architecture and has some interesting
pictures on the walls. Should anyone be curious
enough to wish to enter the tomb of Habib Noh he
will have to remove his shoes as is the Malay custom
when visiting temples. From the Malay grave-
yard eastwards along the sea, as far as Johnston's

Pier, there is to be made a new wharf, and beyond
it a breakwater. An attempt has been made to show
in the plan of Singapore what the harbour works
when completed will be. The wharfage originally
belonged to the Tanjong Pagar Dock Company,
but they were bought out a few years ago by the
Government, which was obliged to pay a very
heavy price, arbitrated, and is committed to great
expense in the intended improvements and ex-
tensions. Continuing on, we reach the building
area of the town, passing a large market on our
way. Markets in a strange land are always
interesting, and it is perhaps worth while to stop
and walk through. Beyond this, if we keep to the
sea front, we come to Collyer Quay, where all the
principal mercantile houses are situated. Collyer
Quay faces the Singapore Roads and has several land-
ing places. The Roads are used by the local coasting
ships mainly, and is the centre of the large tran-
shipment trade of this port. The produce is carried
in boats into godowns on the river and elsewhere,
where it is prepared for export to Europe, then
taken either by water or by land to T-injong Pagar
for shipment on the ocean-going steamers. Large
works, consisting of a reclamation and a mole which
will form a sheltered harbour for small tonnage
steamers, with a view of facilitating this trade, are
in course of construction. To the left of Collyer
Quay we come to Raffles Place, where is the
business heart of the European side of Singapore
life. Here are all the principal shops, the
banks, the shipping offices, and close by, on
the sea, is Johnston's pier. The building
opposite this is the Hongkong and Shanghai
Bank, and opposite it is the Chamber of
Commerce building, in which is the Singapore

o ■

a.'

jica^i-n'ruj /jfijij 'J:, "rfC ^^r.aci

■>

Club. Next to this comes the Post OfSce, and
between it and the Singapore River is the Govern-
ment Shipping Office. There are two bridges over
Singapore River, one, suspension and inadequately
broad, called Cavenagh Bridge, upstream, and the
other, over which the trams run, downstream, called
Anderson Bridge. Looking upstream from
Cavenagh Bridge, we see Boat Quay. Here the
water is crammed with Chinese craft, and the land
is crammed with Chinese houses. On a bright
morning — and most mornings in Singapore are
bright — the combined effect of the colours, the
deep blues, the greens, the yellows, the drabs, the
pure whites, the browns, the reds, either of the
boats on the river or the houses on the shore, is
very remarkable. So, too, in its way, is the
contrast between the recently built towering blocks
of offices and the little old-fashioned low Chinese
houses alongside them. Crossing either bridge we
see on the left, close to the river, the Government
offices. Behind the Government offices are the
Supreme Court and the Printing Office. Across
the road from them is the Victoria Memorial Hall.
In front of this is a statue of an elephant, which
has been reduced to pigmy size by the large
building behind. It commemorates the landing,
in 1871, of Chulalonkorn, King of Siam, at
Singapore, " the first foreign land visited by a
Siamese m.onarch," as records the inscription in
Siamese, English, Chinese and Malay. Facing
the elephant is an obelisk, which ranks as the
palladium of the hberties of Singapore. In 1850,
the Marquis of Dalhousie, Governor-General of
India, visited Singapore, and on that occasion, he
(according to the obelisk, which seems rather hot
about it and not open to argument, still less to

grammar) " emphatically recognised the wisdom of
liberating commerce from all restraints, under
which enlightened policy the Settlement has
attained its present rank among British possessions
and with which its future prosperity must ever be
identified." This is set forth on four panels in
English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil, and reflects
the passions of a day when it was feared that the
policy of keeping Singapore a free port might be
abandoned. To read it brings to mind Raffles,
the founder of Singapore, who believed in free
ports, and one looks down the long padang (plain)
p.ist the Singapore Cricket Club for his statue.
There it stands looking out to sea, under the
branches of the magnificent avenue of angsena
trees which lines the sea front. All the ships of all
the nations of all the world pass in endless review
before him. Raffles, the man of long, long
thoughts. Annual tonnage of the port, 16,444,246
tons; value of its trade, 64,732,757 pounds
sterling; population of the town, 259,610
persons — all these have come about at Singapore,
and all flow from Raffles.

At the north-west end of the Padang stands
the Hotel de 1' Europe, and the street which runs
past it goes to Fort Canning, where is the signal
station for ships entering from the east and a
lighthouse. Next to the Europe come the Municipal
Offices, and next to these the Anglican Cathedral.
Past this at right angles to the sea runs Stamford
Road and the canal alongside it. This road should
be taken for the Raffles Library and Museum, well
worth a visit. If we continue along this road, we
come into Orchard Road, which goes past the
Ladies' Lawn Tennis Club, the Presbyterian Church

45 -

:J=

-*¥

and Government House gates. Opposite these
gates is Tank Road, which leads to the principal
railway station in Singapore. Continuing further,
we come to Orchard Road Market, which can easily
be recognised by the handsome fountain in front
of it, and then to Tanglin, the leading residential
district of Singapore. Few of the houses can be
seen from the roads, owing to the exuberant vegeta-
tion. Most of them are provided with spacious
grounds formed into gardens and tennis courts.
Keeping to Orchard Road and turning to the
left we come to the Barracks, with its golf links
and drill grounds. Here the English regiment is
stationed. Next to the Barracks are the Botanical
Gardens, described elsewhere, and on the left of the
Gardens Tyersall, with its ornamental grounds,
the Singapore residence of the Sultan of Johore.

Beach Road crosses the canal and runs past
Raffles Hotel and right away on past Raffles
Reclamation and the Volunteer headquarters
and Chinese Volunteer Club (opposite which
is a fine Chinese temple) to the busy shops of
the Asiatic eastern quarter. Parallel to Beach
Road, in which are the brass shops, runs North
Bridge Road. Of the streets between the two the
most interesting is Rochore Road, for here are the
bird and animal shops. Amongst the birds are
innumerable doves in cages, whose value is accord-
ing to the sound of their coo and according to the
number of rings on their legs — 37, 41, 44 and 47
are lucky numbers, and if the rings are raised high
the bird is accounted good. Ten dollars {/^i 3^-. ^d.)
is not too high a price for a really good bird,
according to Malay fanciers. Here is a list of birds
and beasts you shall see in Rochore Road, if you do
not mind smells — Java sparrows, grey with pink

beaks, monkeys, white rabbits, fowls with feathers
growing reversed, porcupines, tiger cats, bears,
cassowaries, pigeons, purple gallinules, cockatoos,
two gibbons, black and silver, sitting folded in each
other's arms, most fascinating of all monkeys,
snakes, guinea-pigs, parrots green, parrots red,
parrots blue, purple parrots, parakeets, little tiny
birds in sapphire blue, old gold and crimson, deer,
golden pheasants, hornbills, the slow loris, civet cats,
squirrels, all of them shrieking or twittering or
cooing and apparently very pleased with themselves
in spite of close quarters. Singapore sea front is
crescent shape and the eastern horn ends in a point
called Tanjong Rhu, covered with tall casuarina
trees. Behind this lies, on a sandy beach, five
miles out of Singapore, Tanjong Katong, where are
seaside hotels. The drive out to this place is
pleasant, once the Asiatic town is left behind.
The road runs through the characteristic mangrove
swamp of the Malay Peninsula and then through
coconut groves and rubber estates. The hotels
stand on grassy lawns amongst coconut palms, and
a stroll along the beach in the direction of
Singapore past the disused fort offers a very fine
view of the anchorage and town from the east.

There are many picturesque drives either for
motors or carriages in Singapore. To the reservoirs
at Thompson Road is one. Another is out to the
Gap, two hours return by motor, or along Tanjong
Katong and the East Coast Road along the sea to
Bedoh, returning by the Changi Road. This is a
two-hour motor run. The drive to the reservoirs is
the shortest of these for a carriage, say two hours,
and as it is not necessary to return the same way a
great deal of the prettier portions of Singapore are

- 46 -

:<^

visited. The race course and golf course are
passed. Then the white pillars of the fine residence
of an Arab notable, and finally, by way of Mount
Pleasant, we arrive at the reservoir, a very beautiful
sheet of water broken by promontories, and
surrounded with woods. The Chinese Temple in
Balestier Road should be visited. It compares
favourably with any of the temples to be seen in
China itself. One feature of the Temple is the
series of panels on the walls showing the different
kinds of torture in use in China. On the return
journey, turn off behind the Arab's house,, circle
his lake, cross the railway, and then turn sharp to
the right down Bukit Timah Road. The new
reservoir, about a mile and a half from the first, vis

also well worth a visit. This road runs fourteen
miles to Kranji, which, before the railway, was the
place of embarkation for Johore Bahru, the chief
town of Johore. Turning to the left at the rubber
plantation, where are some of the oldest trees
in the Peninsula, you pass along the Economic
Gardens, and finally enter the Botanical Gardens,
that precious possession of Singapore. Here you
shall see all the palms of the world and the
stately glory of them, and in the lake apparently
all the tropical lilies there are. If it is evening you
will find the centre of the Gardens crowded with
carriages and motors, which have brought the
English . children to play in these lovely grounds.

C. W. H.

- 47 -

f^ — ^

specimen Itinenany

OF A

TOUR BETWEEN PENANG AND SINGAPORE.

(Occupying Nine Days.)

First Day. — 8 a.m., train from Penang to Taiping, arriving 10.54 a.m. Leave Taiping 3.55 p.m. for
Kuala Kangsar, arriving 5 p.m. Night at Kuala Kangsar.

Second Day. — 11.57 a.m., train to Ipoh, arriving 1.13 p.m. Night at Ipoh.

Third Day. — 1.23 p.m., train to Kuala Kubu, arriving 4.55 p.m. Night at Kuala Kubu.

Fourth Day. — 7.40 a.m., railway motor to Kuala Lipis, arriving 5.50 p.m. Night at Kuala Lipis.

Fifth Day. — 7.5 a.m., railway motor to Kuala Kubu, arriving 4.30 p.m. By 5.31 p.m. train to Kuala
Lumpur. Night at Kuala Lumpur.

Sixth Day. — At Kuala Lumpur.

Seventh Day. — 7 a.m., train to Seremban, arriving at 9 a.m. Night at Seremban.

Eighth Day. — 6 a.m., train to Port Dickson, arriving 7.29 a.m., and returning at 10.10 a.m. to
Seremban. Leave Seremban 3.4 p.m., arrive Malacca 5.17 p.m. Night at Malacca.

Ninth Day. — Leave Malacca 8.20 a.m. train, arrive Singapore 6.52 p.m. (change at Tampin).

SOTE.— These times should he verified ai Penang before starting, as the Railiuay Time Table

may be changed,

^ ^

— 48 —

-fl ^

SPECIMEN CIRCULAR TOURS IN MALAYA BY RAIL.

Tour I. From Singapore, via Tampin, Malacca, Seremban, Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh, Kuala Kangsar, Taiping

to Penang.

Tour II. From Singapore, via Gemas to Kuala Krau. Thence by railway launch to Pekan and by sea to

Singapore.

Tour III. From Singapore, via Tampin to Malacca, and return lo Singapore.

Tour IV. From Singapore, via Tampin to Malacca, Seremban, Port Dickson, and return to Singapore.

Tour V. From Singapore, via Tampin to Malacca, Seremban, Kuala Lumpur, Klang, and return to

Singapore.

Tour VI. From Singapore, via Tampin to Malacca, Seremban, Kuala Lumpur, Tapah Road, Ipoh,
Tapah Road, Telok Anson, and return to Singapore.

Tour VII. From Penang, via Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Seremban, and Tampin to
Singapore.

Tour VIII. From Penang to Taiping, and via Port Weld and local steamer to Penang.

Tour IX. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, and return to Penang.

Tour X. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, and return to Penang.

Tour XI. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Kubu, motor via Tras and

Bentong to Kuala Lumpur, and return to Penang.
Tour XII. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Kubu, motor to Kuala Lipis,

boat to Kuala Krau, railway launch to Pekan, steamer to Singapore, and return by rail.
Tour XIII. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Tapah Road, Telok Anson, and return to Penang.

Tour XIV. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Klang, and return to Penang.

Tour XV. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Klang, Seremban, Port
Dickson, and return to Penang.

Tour XVI. From Penang to Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, Klang, Seremban,
Malacca, and return to Penang.

From Malacca, Port Dickson, Klang and Telok Anson, there arc local steamers to Singapore and Penang.

History of the Federated Malay States /Railways.

)HE Railways in the Federated Malay States and Straits Settlements are all the
property of and are worked by the Government. The first Railway constructed
in the Federated Malay States was a branch line from Taiping to Port Weld,
in Perak, which was opened for traffic in June, 1885. Since that date the
extension of the Railway System has steadily progressed, and there are at
the present time 735 miles of Railway opened. The Johore State Railway,
I20f miles in length, is worked and maintained by the Federated Malay States Railway
Department. Metre gauge has been adopted throughout. Railway construction is now pro-
ceeding on the eastern side of the Peninsula. The east coast railway junctions with the
present main line at Gemas, in Negri Sembilan, and it is now completed to the 1 1 8th
mile. The extension northward through Pahang and Kelantan is in hand, and this line,
when completed, will junction with the Siamese Railways now under construction. It is
anticipated that in 6 years' time through railway communication will be given between Singapore
and Bangkok. On the west side of the Peninsula railway construction is in hand northward
from Bukit Mertajam, in Province Wellesley, to Alor Star, in Kedah. This extension will also
connect with the Siamese Railways.

NOTICE.

Travellers are earnestly desired not to introduce into a country \vhere it does not now prevail the reprehensible

practice of giving, merely because begged, money to people who have rendered no service. There is ample

honest employment for the able-bodied of all classes of Asiatic in Malaya, and the Government provides homes

for decrepit vagrants of all races. Tipping railway porters is both forbidden and not usual.

— 50 —

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MOTOR SERVICE.

MOTOR LAUNCH SERVICE. •-•_•

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WATCRLOWft SONS LIMITrO. LONDON WALL. LONDON

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THE

MERCANTILE BANK OF INDIA, LTD

(INCORPORATED IN ENGLAND.)

Head Office: 15 GRAOEOHURGH STREET, LONDON, E.G.

Capital Authorised
Capital Subscribed
Capital Paid-up ...
Reserve

£1,500,000

1,125,000

562,500

415,000

Boand of Dinectops.

R. J. Black, Esq., Chairman.

James Campbell, Esq.

J. A. MAITLAND, Esq.
J. M. RYRIE, Esq.
Chief Manager : PERCY MOULD.

H. MELViLL Simons, Esq.
Sir David Yule.

London Manager: JAMES STEUART.

Bankers.

BANK OF ENGLAND.

LONDON JOINT STOCK BANK, LIMITED.

Branches and Jlgencies.

BOMBAY.
KARACHI.
CALCUTTA.
HOWRAH.

DELHI.
MADRAS.
RANGOON.
COLOMBO.

KANDY.
GALLE.
SINGAPORE.
KUALA LUMPUR.
SHANGHAI.

KOTA BHARU.
PENANG.
BATAVIA.
HONGKONG.

KUALA LUMPUR BRANCH.

CURRENT ACCOUNTS OPENED.

Interest allowed at the rate of 2 per cent, per annum on daily balances.
Fixed Deposits received for one year or for shorter periods. Terms can be ascertained on application.
Excliange.— The Bank issues drafts on its Branches and Agencies, purchases or remits for collection Bills, and grants
Circular Notes for the use of Travellers, negotiable in all Towns of importance throughout the world.

old market square,

Kuala Lumpur.

Telegraphic Address : "PARADISE."

51 —

G. A. ERASER,

Agent.

:J^

■^

CEYLON.

NUWARA ELIYA,

9 HOURS BY RAIL FROM OOLOMBO.

CDe Sanatorium or tDc east.

6,200 feet above sea-level.

Famous for its Golf Links, Botanical Gardens,
Tennis, and Trout Fishing.

STAY AT THE . . .

GRAND HOTEL,

The Largest and Best-appointed Hotel in Nuwara Eliya.

Extensively enlarged and improved in 1910.

Electric Light.

Superior ilccommodation
for ower 160 Visitors.

Situated in Beautiful Private Grounds extending
over 20 Acres.

EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHARGES MODERATE.

Motor Garage. Stables, &c.

Hotel Porters and Carriages meet all Trains.

Five minutes' drive from Railway Station.

On Parle Franca

yian Shricht Deutsch.

Telegrams : "GRAND, NUWARA ELIYA."

. THE

NEW KEENA HOTEL,

Opposite the United Club,
Racecourse, etc.

Seven minutes' drive from the Railzuay Station.

Telegrams : " KEENA, NUWARA ELIYA."

Ppoppietors :

THE NUWARA ELIYA HOTELS CO., LIMITED.

EASTERN AND ORIENTAL HOTEL,

PENANG.

" The Leading Hotel. ^

Five Minutes from the F.M.S. Railway Station.

Finest Position on the whole Sea Front.

Upwards of 70 Bedrooms with Private Bathrooms.

Electric Light Throughout.

Telephones. Post and Telegraph Office.

Electric BeUs,

Cuisine acknowledged to be the best.

Under the direct Management of the Proprietors.

SARKIES BROTHERS, Proprietors.

Tclearalihic Address: SARKIES. PE.NA.NG.

52 —

:J=

4':

Sarkies' Rotels.

'i>/3V7l'^SS5)

RArriES HOTEL, SINGAPORE.

EASTERN & ORIENTAL HOTEL,
...FENANG...

CRAG HOTEL SANATORIUM,
FENANG HILLS.

— -»<x»^

STRAND HOTEL, RANGOON.

'telegraphic j^dtlresses :

• SARKIES-SINGAPORE."

"SARKIES-PENANG."

" SARKIESIAN-RANGOON "

SARKIES BROTHERS,

Troprieiors.

RUNNYMEDE HOTEL,

NORTHAM ROAD, PENANG,
STRAITS SETTLEMENTS.

CDC englisl) and Continental Botcl and
hcaltl) Resort.

«=§o

Recommended by medical authorities.

Selected situation, facing the sea. Breezy and bracing.
Sea Bathing.

First-Class Accommodation.

Cuisine well known as the best throughout the East.
Under strict European supervision.

JAVANESE RICE TABLE EVERY SUNDAY at 1 p.m.

Bar and Special Dining Room for Private Parties
on the Sea Front.

c^oioT Cars, Carriages and 'Prioale Rickshaws to be had
at any time by day and night.

Telephones Nos. 543 and 635.

Telegraphic Address : " RUNNYMEDE, PENANG."

Code : A. B. C. 5th Edition.

English, French, German and Dutch spoken.

'Proprietor, A. KERDYK.

Hotel Runners meet all Trains and Steamers.

■"^

:J=

-e — — — ^ — - - — ^

*<Y^ Suppliers of all Petroleum Products. < //}

"BEST REFINED

KEROSINE OIL

For Illuminating, use in Oil Engines and other purposes.

FINEST QUALITY

Lubricating Oils and Grease

For all purposes, special grades manufactured for use in Motor Cars,
Steam, Gas and Oil Engines, Rubber Machinery, Mining Machinery, &c., &c.

Tarakan Crude Oil

An Efficient and Economical WOOD PRESERVATIVE.

" TURPENE " (Mineral Turpentine), CARRIAGE AND MINING CANDLES.
PARAFFIN WAX. ASPHALT FOR ROAD-MAKING.

THE ASIATIC PETROLEUM CO. (F.M.S.) LTD., Singapore and Ipoh.

A. C. HARPER & CO.— Agents for Selangor.

J. & Q. McCLY MO NT— Agents for Negri Sembilan.

4> — — — — — — J=

- 54 —

■fr

»»

^"V^^ ^tST NORTH & SO(/r^ *^^0/^

EVERYWHERE

"SHELL"

MOTOR SPIRIT can now be obtained

at the following Towns in the Malay Penlnsula:-

Town.

Dealer.

Town.

Dealer.

Town.

Dealer.

Alor Star

Swee Hin.

Kuala Kurau

Kong Kee.

BaSan Serai .

Kee Bee.

Kuala Lumpur

A. C. Harper Sc Co.

Salak North

Ee Soon.

Batu Gajah .

Hoe Choon.

Federal Garage.

Seremban

McClymont & Co.

Bentong
Bidor ...

Ho Wah Kee.

Federated Engineering Co

Siputeh

Woh On.

Sitiawan (Simpang

Bruas ...

Keat Sin Leong.

Ampat)

Keat Sin Leong.

Butterwortli .

Hassan 4: Co.

ing and MotonWorks.

Slim

Swee Ban Hin.

Chemor

Khye Soon.

Cycle & Carriage Co.

Sungei Bakap

Poh Choon (Tow Kay

Chenderiang .

Ban Guan Leong.

Hibberti Voodroffe & Co.

Kee Tek Thye).

Gopeng...

Keat Sin Leong.

Ltd.

SungeiSiput

Kong Seng Leong.

Ipoh ...

G. W. Wilson.

Lahat

Kwong Kee.

Sungkai

Sim Hong.

■ r

Wearne Bros. Ltd.

Lenggong

Eng Hin.

Taipeng

Khye Guan & Co.

Wing Lee.

Malacca

McClymont & Co.

Talk Ho & Co

Keat Sin Leong.

„

Ee Bee & Co.

Tampin

Khiam Aik.

Johore ...

Sahil & Co.

Keng Hin & Co.

Tandjong Rambutan

Sin Seng Bee.

Kaiang ...

Sin Hock Joo.

Menglembu

Lee Sang.

Hock Bee Hin.

Kampar

Ban Hoe Hin.

Parit Buntar

Sin Joo Eng.

Teluk Anson

H. Melbye.

Kelantan

Duff Development Co.

Penang

Chin Seng & Co. Ltd.

Taiti Son & Co

Klang ...

A. C. Harper Sc Co.

■ 1

Keat Sin Leong.

Temoh

Kwong Chan.

Ban Guan.

Chin Kooi & Co.

Trolak

Sim Cheong.

„

Hock Bee & Co.

Port Dickson

McClymont & Co.

Tronoh

Yet Un.

Kuala Kangsar

Guan Seang Bee.

Fusing

Hock Guan Hin.

Kuala Kubu

Ban Joo.

Raub

Yong Joo Long.

4>:

POWERIN " smTuT for 'Busses, Lorries and Commercial Vehicles.

55 —

■^

THE FINEST

STORE

EAST OF SUEZ

ittles

SINGAPORE.-The Singa-
pore premises of Messrs. John
Little & Co., Ltd., designated
" The finest Store East of Suez,"
are situated in the central part
of the town, and Tourists -will
find after a long, hot round of
sight-seeing, that a short stay of
inspection in Little's cool and
airy showrooms, 'with perhaps
a cold tiffin, a refreshing cup
of tea, or a delicious ice cream,
will be not the least pleasant
part of the day's outing. Some
idea of the size of Little's
General Store can be imagined
w^hen it is stated that the

premises have a floor space of over 3^ acres. The Store is fitted up in the most modern manner and every possible

want is catered for in goods from the best markets in the World.

KUALA LUMPUR. — Some time ago Little's acquired a site of 12,400 sq. feet, with a frontage of over 120 feet
towards the New Embankment Road and of over 110 feet towards Ampang Street. On this site has been erected
an imposing three-storey building
on the lines so successfully carried ^^^^

out in Singapore. Electric Lifts ^M^^ "

and Fans are provided, also a
Refreshment Room for the con-
venience and comfort of visitors
and customers. John Little's bring
their resources, through the medium
of their catalogues, to your doors,
enabling you to draw on the most
complete, modern, and fairly priced
collection of merchandise in the
F, M. S. This places " Outstation "
customers on an equal fooling with
those w^ho shop personally at
Little's.

ittle

KUAIA LUMPUR PREMISES.

Catalogues posted free.

The Finest Store
In The F.M.S.

- 56 -

D. G. Robertson, Ltd.,

Bngfncenin^ lilonks^

ROBERTSON ROAD, KUALA LUMPUR,

FEDERATED MALAY STATES.

Improved

Rubber Curing Machinery,

ALL OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE,

Complete Estimates supplied free for Machinery and Buildings.

Engineering Stores of every description supplied.

LARGE STOCKS KEPT.

Our New Improved STANDARD RUBBER MACHINE is driven by

Machine-made Helical Gearing and actuated by our Special Friction Clutch,

which eliminates all noise, shock or jar.

CALL AT OUR WORKS AND INSPECT THESE RUNNING.

4 > c^

A. C. Harper & Co.,

Kuala LrUtnpur, Klang and
Port Swrettenham.

Share and Stock Brokers,
Shipping and Forwarding Agents,
Estate Agents,
General Merchants,
Insurance Agents,

&c., &c., &c.

Sole Jlgents fon :
De Dion Cars,
Metallurgique Cars,
Vulcan Cars,
Waverley Cars,
Royal Enfield Motor Cycles.

MOTOR ACCESSORIES.

DUNLOP TYRES.

AGENTS: ASIATIC PETROLEUM COMPANY.

SHELL MOTOR SPIRIT. LUBRICATING OILS.

Telegrams : " HARPER, KUALA LUMPUR."
• HARPER, KLANG."
" HARPER, PORT SWETTENHAM. '

:<^

"1=

CIVIL, ELECTRICAL, MECHANICAL & MARINE ENGINEERS.

Largest Stocks of Engineers' Stores and Hardware in the East.
SINGAPORE, BANGKOK, IPOH, PENANG, MALACCA, SEREIVIBAN, MEDAN.

UNITED

ENGINEERS

LIMITED

SPECIALISTS IN FERRO-CONCRETE AND RUBBER MACHINERY.

A FEW AGENCIES :—

Richard Hornsby & Sons, Ltd.— Gas and Oil Engines.

Sulzer Bros,— Diesel Oil Engines.

Robey S Co., Ltd.— Portable Steam Engines and Semi

Diesel Crude Oil Engines, etc.
Worthington Pump Co., Ltd.— Pumps, Water & Oil Meters.
Pulsometer Engineering Co., Ltd.— "Pulsometer" and

Centrifugal Pumps.
J. W. Brooke S Co.— Motor Boats & Petrol Marine Motors.
J. S C. G. Bolinder— Crude Oil Marine Engines.
John I. Thornycroft S Co. .Ltd.— Kerosene Marine Motors.
Halley Industrial Motor Car Co.— Commercial and other

Motor Vehicles.

4>:

Bullivant S Co.— Wire Hawsers and Ropeways.
Trussed Concrete Steel Co.— Kahn Bars, Hy Rib, etc.,

Ferro-Concrete Construction.
Bertrams, Ltd.— Rubber Machinery.
Emil Passburg— Vacuum Drying Chambers.
Thomas Piggott S Co., Ltd.— Patent Pressed Steel Tanks.
Wailes Dove & Co.—" Bitumastic " Solution and Enamels.
Jewell Export Filter Co.— Water Filters.
Robert Roger & Co.— Steam Cargo and Winding Winches.
Cochran & Co., Ltd.— Boilers.
Triumph Cycle Co., Ltd.— Motor Cycles.

— 60 —

Atlas Preservative Co.— Wood, Boiler and Steel Pre-
servatives.

Twyfords, Ltd.— Sanitary Appliances.

Chubb S Sons Lock and Safe Co., Ltd.— Fireproof Doors,
Safes, etc.

Crompton S Co., Ltd.— Electrical Engineers.

Automatic Telephone Manufacturing Co, Ltd.— Tele-
phone Equipments.

Blackman Export Co.— Fan Machinery.

SImms Magneto Co., Ltd. — Magneto & Ignition Sundries.

British Insulated S Helsby Cables, Ltd.— Electric Cables.

^J=

f — — — ^t

BURNS PHILP LINE.

Singapore to Java Ports, Port Darwin, Thursday Island, Brisbane and Sydney via Torres
Straits. Also taking Passengers and Cargo with transhipment for other Victorian, South
Australian and North Queensland Ports, British New Guinea, New Britain, Tasmanian and

New Zealand Ports.

SMOOTH PASSAGE. SUPERB SCENERY.

A regular Monthly Service (about 28th of each month) to above Ports is maintained by
the British Steamers "MaTARAM," 3,273 Tons, Captain C. W. Bibbing, and ' MONTORO,"
4,000 Tons, Captain S. Mortimer, They have excellent accommodation for Saloon Passengers,
and are lighted throughout by Electricity, and embrace the latest modern improvements for
safety and comfort. All Cabins are fitted with Electric Fans. A Refrigerator is fitted on board,
ensuring a plentiful supply of ice and fresh Australian provisions and fruits throughout the trip.
Doctor and Stewardess carried.

FITTED WITH WIRELESS AND LAUNDRY.

AROUND THE WORLD PASSAGES

and choice of other Routes in conjunction with BURNS Philp Line Tickets can be arranged.

Passengers can be booked via Sydney, transhipping for Europe by several alternate
interesting routes. Particulars obtainable on application.

Rates of Passage (subject to alteration without notice) : Singapore to Brisbane, £33 single,
£52 16s. return ; to Sydney, £35 single, £56 return ; to Melbourne, £37 single, £59 4s. return.

Tickets for return passage are available by Steamers of the Australian service of the
Koninklikje Paketvaart Maatschappij.

For further information, full details of Routes, Maps, Guide Books, etc.. Freight and
Passage, apply to the Agents —

BOUSTEAD & CO., Singapore and Penang.

BOUSTEAD, HAMPSHIRE & CO., LTD., Kuala Lumpur and Ipoh.

- 61 -

■>

lllustttatcd Guide

TO THE

FEDERATED /AALAY STATES.

Edited by CUTHBERT W. HARRISON, of the F.M.S. Civil Service,

WITH

Chapters on Big-Game Shooting, Motoring, Mining
and Museums in the Malay Peninsula.

Seven Illustrations in Colour hv Mrs. H. C. BARNARD, and Thirty-two Reproductions from Photographs

by KLEINGROTHE.

Second Impression, Revised, with Index and improved Map, in Cloth, 2s. 6d. net. Post Free, 2s. 9d.
First Impression, in Leather, 2s. 6d. net. Post Free, 2s. 9d.

MALAY STATES INFORMATION AGENCY, 88 Cannon Street, London, E.C.

$vn<3psis of Contents.

CHAPTER I.

Touching briefly on the more notable occurrences
in the history of the country, Mr. Harrison conducts the
traveller from Penang in the north to Singapore in the
south, giving, on the way, descriptions of the principal
towns touched by the railway or adjacent to it — Taiping,
Kuala Kangsar, Ipoh, Tanjong Malim, Kuala Lumpur,
Port Swettenham, Port Dickson, Klang, Seremban. In telling
phrase and with the colour sense of the artist, he describes
the beauties of the jungle, with pictures of Malay hfe and
of the aborigines who dwell remote from civilised man.
Tropical agriculture, as exemplified in the products of
the land — rice and tapioca, coconuts and rubber, coffee and
sugar-cane, and a wealth of fruits — is passed in review, the
genesis of the rubber plantation industry told in brief, while
reference is made in transit through the localities where
these are followed to tin mining and other industries.

CHAPTER II.

Besides supplying the visitor with all needful informa-
tion as regards hotels and resthouses, diet, means of
transport, clothing, the purchase of curios, and what simple
precautions should be followed for the preservation of
health, Mr. Harrison indicates the facilities and districts for
shooting and fishing, with details regarding the laws govern-
ing big-game shooting. Racial characteristics receive
attention, with particular reference to Malay family life,
education, dress, customs and pursuits. Place-names are
discussed with charming freshness and lucidity, and, with
no less charm, the editor discourses on the luscious fruits
of Malaya. Planting life is fully described, especially
coconut and rubber cultivation, and an idea is given of the
daily routine of a rubber estate.

:J=

- 62 -

■^

Synopsis of Contents — (continued).

CHAPTER III.

In his hints for motorists, Mr. J. M. M. Robson says
the best time for motoring in Malaya is between April and
September. His advice in regard to cars and their landing
is valuable. Routes are slcetched traversing the Peiiinsula
from either Penang or Singapore, with distances for the
daily run, and the necessary information is given as to
garages and the supply of petrol and personal outfit. There
is an excellent road system of o\'er 2,000 miles in the
Peninsula.

CHAPTER IV.

Big-game shooting in Malaya means the hunting of
elephant, seladang, and rhinoceros, with a chance of getting
an occasional tiger or leopard. As an authority on the'
subject, Mr. Theodore R. Hubback supplies all the necessary
information as regards cost, equipment, camp outfit, rifles,
trackers and carriers, the localities where game may be
found, and how a kill may be secured.

CHAPTER V.

Before buying curios and articles of native manufacture,
the visitor would be well advised to visit the Museums at

Taiping and Kuala Lumpur, both of which illustrate, more
or less completely, the Zoology, Geology, Mineralogy and
Ethnography of the Malay Peninsula from the Isthmus of
Kra to Singapore. The more notable exhibits are dealt with
in an interesting manner by Mr. H. C. Robinson, of the
Malay Government Service.

CHAPTER VI.

Rich in tin, providing about half of the world's
supply, the Federated Malay States also produce gold,
coal and wolfram, while there are virgin lands still awaiting
survey by the mining engineer. Mr. F. J. B. Dykes'
chapter on Mining gives the latest statistics and export
duties, and deals with methods of mining, dressing tin ore,
sale and smelting, labour, legislation affecting miners, and
the supervision of mining operations.

APPENDICES.

Glossary — Statistics — List of Resthouses — Fees for
Sporting Licences — Bibliography — Tables of Distances —
Itineraries — Legal Tariffs for Vehicles — Currencies and
Weights and Measures— index.

Ppess notices.

*' Makes curiousand interesting reading. Itisplentifullyillustratfid,
and there is an excellent map. The literary style, too, is distinctly
good.'' — The Sportsman.

"An attractive and informative volume." — The Financier.

".The book is thoroughly interesting. . . The Editor ... is
to be heartily congratulated on the work, which should prove of great
value, especially to the large number of people interested in rubber
cultivation, mining, and other industries of this rapidly-developing
country." — Financial Times.

"To anyone who is going globe-trotting round the world, this
Illustrated Guide . . . will be one of the necessary books to have
amongst the hand-baggage. I have put it among my works of reference
alongside Hugh Clifford's books on the Malayans."— Colonel Newn ham
Davis in The Sporting Times.

"An interesting Guide, such as this is, should find a very con-
siderable sale. . . The book may be specially recommended to men
who are going out to Malaya for the first time, as it contains many

most valuable hints on the preservation of health and other matters.'' —
The Ho7ne &= Colo7iial Mail.

"This compact, little Guide,*'— /'«// Mall Gazette.

"The volume has much to recommend it." — The Field.

" It is profusely illustrated, and the contents will prove entertaining
reading by those interested in rubber and tin shares. To those who
are about to take up a position in the Malay States, and to those who
are inclined to travel, the Guide should prove invaluable.' — The
Capitalist.

" A most interesting volume." — The Rubber World.

" The volume before us appears at a most opportune time, and should
jjrove distinctly useful. From it the reader can obtain the fullest informa-
tion on all subjects connected with life in the Federated Malay States.
Moreover, the various data is conveyed in a more or less narrative form,
which is more interesting than the dry-as-dust style of the ordinary
guide. Those whose business or desire to travel should take them to
this part of the world will find Mr. Harrison's book of great service " —
The London and China Telegraph,

On sale at Railzuay Bookstalls^ and from Pritchard ^ Co.^ Penang^ John Little & Co.

and Kelly & Walsh, Singapore.

:J=

■^

GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, Ltd.

SINGAPORE.

Recently Redecorated and Refurnished and under quite
New Management.

The Hotel offers every advantage conducive to health
and comfort.

Every Room has a Bath and Dressing Room attached.
Self-contained Suites of Apartments.

Most up-to-date Sanitary Arrangements.

Electric Lights and Ceiling Fans everywhere.

The New Management has a reputation for a well-
conducted service and cuisine par excellence, under
the direct supervision of a European Chef and
European Assistant.

Two Lifts to Floors and Promenade Roof.

Hotel Orchestra plays during Tiffin and Dinner.

The Hotel has an unrivalled position and is patronised by
the Elite of European and American Society.

^^ LATE SAVOY HOTEL, LONDON.

4.:

.J-

- 64 -

GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, LIMITED.

SINGAPORE.

Cable Address ;
"EUROPE," SINGAPORE

LATE SAVOY HOTEL, LONDON.

:J^

— 65 —

PAPERS ON MALAY SUBJECTS.

(Published l>y direction of the Government of the Federated Mahiy States.)
PRICE: ONE DOLLAR EACH.

ILtiteratux-e.

I. Romance, History and Poetry.
II. Literature of Folk-lore, etc.
III. Proverbs and Letter- Writing.

lEtaui.

I. Introductory Sketch.
II. The Ninety-nine Laws of Perak.

History.

I. Malay History, and II. Notes on Perak.

III. Perak Council Minutes, 1877-1879.

IV. „ „ „ 1880-1882.
V. Notes on Negri Sembilan.

Ixife and QJustoms.

I. Incidents of Malay Life.
II. Circumstances of Malay Life.
III. Amusements.

Industries.

I. Arts and Crafts.
II. Hunting, Fishing and Trapping.
III. Rice Planting.

^u|>|)lement.

The Aboriginal Tribes.

Second Series. — Jelebu.

The Land Laws and Land Administration of the Federated Malay States. Price : 25 Cents.

On sale at the F.M.S. Government Printing Department, Kuala Lnmpur.

:<^

120

leo

r' '

ON MERCATORS PROJECTION,

-aO,

AhTEXLOW & B0N6 LIMITED, LONDON WALL. '

BY ROYAL WARRANT

TO H.M. KING GEORGE V.

LOUIS R0EOERER eHaMPHGNE.

Stocked in Magnums, Quarts
and Pints.

NON-VINTAGE

RESERVE FOR GREAT

BRITAIN,

ar.d

1906 VINTAGE.

Obtainable at the leading Hotels
throughout the Federated Malay
States and Straits Settlements.

Sole Importers .-

Hibbert, Woodroffe & Go.

LIMITED,

KLANG, IPOH and

KUALA LUMPUR.

THE MALAY PENINSULA.

The Land J^oute from Singapore to Penang.

'' Mislike me not for my complexion.
The shadow'd livery of the bumish'd sun,
To whom I am a neighbour and near bred."

— Merchant of Venice,

What strikes the traveller, as his ship rounds the northern end of
Pinang, is the extraordinary beauty of the scene to which he is introduced
with almost startling suddenness. On his right is the island, a vision of
green verdure, of steep hills rising from the water's edge till they culminate
in a peak 2,500 ft. high. The sides of these hills are partly forest, partly
cultivated, but everywhere green, with the freshness and colour of tropical
vegetation washed by frequent rains. About the hills, at varying heights,
are picturesque buildings nestling amongst the trees or standing on outcrops
of grey rock. Down by the shore — a fascinating in-and-out shore of little
sandy bays and little rocky promontories— there is a deep belt of palms,
shading but not altogether concealing quantities of brown cottages. Then
a broad ribbon of sand, sometimes dazzlingly white, sometimes streaked, or
wholly tinted, with burnt sienna ; and so the sea, a very wonderful summer
sea, blue or grey or pale gold, under different conditions of sunlight, often
chequered by great purple and indigo cloud shadows. Along the beach
lie boats and nets set out to dry ; black nets and brown nets, of immense
length, stretched on a framework of poles; quaint objects and infinitely
picturesque, but not more so than the fishing stakes, the upper half of which
stand above the water, many fathoms from the shore, on the edge of every
sand bank. That is what you see as you round the north foreland, by the
loftily placed lighthouse ; and then, in a moment, there is the town, and
the ship seems to be running into its main street. The white buildings
and red roofs, which house a hundred thousand people, crammed closely
together on the flat tongue of land that stretches, from ihe foot of Pinang
Hill, right out into the Strait which divides it from the mainland, just as
though the island were ever trying to get its foot back on to the opposite
shore. And when the red roofs cease to catch the eye as » mass, they
tvrinkle at you, here and there, from out the foliage of garden and orchard,
till all is merged in green and purple against the background of that great
hill (Penang. — From Swettenham's "British Malaya.")

Here begins one of those long and very beautiful climbs upward to
which the traveller, if he has gone by road from north to south through
the country, will have grown almost accustomed. But custom cannot stale
the infinite variety of the jungle or dull the feeling of vague gratitude to
someone, we know not whom, who has made it possible for us to pass
thus, in comfort and pleasure, through its deepest recesses. The road is in
the jungle indeed but not of it, for what can be more foreign to the jungle
than this weedless surface, this uncompromising smooth metalling, this
orderly alignment of a road ? Yet the jungle seems scarce conscious that
the heart of it has been cut open and its beating exposed. The blue and
black butterfly which flits unobtrusively through the flickering blue and
black lights of the forest will yet congregate in numbers on the bright
surface of the road, and here, where a little spring has forced itself through
the steam-rolled metal, a band of yellow butterflies and white butterflies
chase each other to and fro or sit sipping the moisture on the road surface.
Shrill insects scream in the dark recesses by the roadside and here and

there a bank has slipped. Such slips are the jungle's perpetual reminder
of its right of way (The Open Road. — F.M.S. Illustrated Guide.)

The gardens and lake which are such a feature of Kuala Lumpur
are about half a mile from the railway station. Just before their gates
stands the Museum, an account of which will be found elsewhere. But
the whole of the English quarter of Kuala Lumpur is one garden with
roads in every direction contouring the hills and continually offering at
every turn fresh scenes of that restrained but still tropical beauty which
results from successful effort to preserve some only of the jungle and keep
the rest of the ground in green lawns and shady paths. The impression
left by the town on the mind of the traveller is of perpetual freshness,
verdure and colour, of bright lights and scented breezes, and of a spacious
picturesqueness very grateful to the eye (Kuala Lumpur. — F.M.S. Illus-
trated Guide.)

Between the docks and the town, a bold headland, crowned by a
battery, juts out into the water, and forms the southern horn of a crescent
which embraces the whole city ; till the land curves round to a far distant
point, where a thick grove of palms faintly indicates the northern horn.
Singapore from the Roads is very fair to see. From Mount Palmer (the
fortified headland) to the Singapore River — that is, about one- third of
the crescent — there is an unbroken mass of buildings, shining and while,
facing the sea. The next third is green with grass and trees, through
which are caught glimpses of public buildings and the spires of churches,
backed by low hills, on one of which, in the distance, stands white and
stately the Governor's residence. The remaining third is again covered
by closely packed houses, seen indistinctly through a forest of masts. The
space enclosed by the beach and a line drawn from horn to horn of the
crescent would contain about 1,500 acres of water, and that is the real
harbour of Singapore. Native craft, mainly Chinese junks, great and small,
with hundreds of other vessels of every form, and size, and rig, lie crowded
together in the northern half, while the southern half is occupied by
numbers of small coasting steamers. Outside, in the deeper water, four or
five miles from shore, is the man-of-war anchorage. As for launches and
cargo boats, fishing boats, passenger boats, and pleasure yachts, their name
is legion, and their goings to and fro, day and night, are ceaseless. The
Singapore river is so tightly packed with hundreds of small craft that
it is difficult enough to. preserve a fairway to admit of passage. On shore
it is the same ; the place is seething with life, and, to the unaccustomed eye,
the vehicles to be met with in the streets are almost as strange as the boats
in the harbour; while such a medley of nationalities, such a babel of
languages, surely finds no parallel in all the world. Of colour and life
there is enough to satisfy the greediest : of heat and dust and strange
smells there are usually too much for the western visitor. Only the
extraordinary novelty of the scene, the wonderful colouring, the unusual
interest, will banish every other feeling — for a time (Singapore. —
Swettenham's "British Malaya.")

MALAYA FOR MOTORISTS.

Rritis

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DS 592.FM1914""'*''"""-"''^'1'

3 1924 oil 085 457