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LITERATURE, THE SCIEX€ES,& THE ARTH.
HALL'S VOYAGES
18?6.
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2650?^9
VOYAGE
EASTERN SEAS.
EDINBURGH :
PRINTl- 13 1;Y J.\MF.S BAIXANTYNF. AND CO.
VOYAGE
TO
L O O - C H O O,
AND
OTHER PLACES IN THE
EASTERN SEAS,
IN THE YEAR 1816.
INCLUDING
AN ACCOUNT OF
CAPTAIN maxwell's ATTACK ON THE
BATTERIES AT CANTON;
AND
NOTES OF AN INTERVIEW
WITH
BUONAPARTE AT ST HELENA,
IN AUGUST 1817.
BY
CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, R. N.
F. R. S.
EDINBURGH :
PRINTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE & CO. ;
AND HURST, ROBINSON, & CO., LONDON.
1826.
ADVERTISEMENT,
The following volume consists partly of
matter entirely new, and partly of what has
already appeared before the Public. That
portion of it, however, of which the sub-
stance was given before, has been carefully
revised, and, in some places, augmented by^
further selections from the original notes.
The new Chapters in this Edition, inclu-
ding an account of an Interview with Buona-
parte at St Helena, and Captain Maxwell's
Attack on the Batteries at Canton, have been
added, as possessing more or less connexion
with those parts of the Work formerly pub-
lished.
EXTRACTS
IROM
A JOURNAL,
WRIXIEX
ON THE COASTS OF
CHILI, PERU, AND MEXICO,
IN THE YEARS
1820, 1821, 1822,
Br
CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, R.N.
F.R.S.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
EDINBURGH :
I'H INTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO.
AND HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. LONDON.
1826.
t
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. TAOE.
Passage from England to the Straits of Sunda — An-
jeer Point in Java — China — Hong Kong — Yellow
Sea — Pekin River — Harbour of Oei-hai-oi, ... 3
CHAPTER ir.
Corea — Sir James Hall's Group — Hutton's Island-
Shallow Bay on the main land — Amherst Isles, . 55
CHAPTER III.
Departure from the Amherst Isles — Sulphur Island—
Loo-Choo, IIG
CHAPTER IV.
Examination of the Coast of the Great Loo-Clioo
Island by the Lyra — Discovery of Port .Melville, 208
CHAPTER V.
Progress of our acquaintance with the natives — ^Madde-
ra — Dinner given to the Chiefs — The Prince of Loo-
Choo's Visit to Captain Maxwell — Parting Scene, 221
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI. PAGE.
Captain Maxwell's Attack on the Batteries at Canton,
on the 12th of November, 1816, 258
CHAPTER VII.
Interview with Buonaparte at St Helena, in August
1817, i 302
PREFACE
The change that has gradually taken place
(luring the last thirty or forty years in
the numbers and circumstances of the reading
public, and the unlimited desire of knowledge
that now pervades every class of society, have
suggested the present undertaking. Pre-
viously to the commencement of the late war,
the buyers of books consisted principally of
the richer classes — of those who were brought
up to some of the learned professions, or who
had received a liberal education. The sa=
ving of a few shillings on the price of a vo-
lume was not an object of much importance
to such persons, many of whom prized it chief-
ly for the fineness of its paper, the beauty of
its typography, and the amplitude of its mar-
11 PREFACE.
gins, — qualities wliich add to tlie expense of a
work, without rendering it in any degree raore
useful. But now when the more general diffu-
sion of education and of wealth, has occasioned
a vast increase in the number of readers, and
in the works which daily issue from the
press, a change in the mode of publishing
seems to be called for. The strong desire en-
tertained by most of those who are engaged in
the various details of agriculture, manufac-
tures, and commerce, for the acquisition of use-
ful knowledge and the culture of their minds, is
strikingly evinced by the establishment of sub-
scription libraries and scientific institutions,
even in the most inconsiderable towns and
villages throughout the empire ; and by the
extensive sale which several very expensive,
though by no means valuable works, publish-
ed in numbers, have met with. Under these
circumstances, it occurred to the projector of
this Miscellany, that if Standard Works not
hitherto accessible to the great mass of the
Public, intermingled with Original Trea-
tises on subjects of great general importance,
and executed by writers of acknowledged
talent, were published in a cheap, convo-
PREFACE. Ill
ineiit, and not inelegant form, they would
obtain a most extensive circulation, and be
])roductive alike of benefit to the Public, and
of profit to those concerned in them.
In the selection of Treatises, and in the mode
of circulation, the Publishers have adopted
that plan which they supposed would be most
likely to meet the wishes of the great fliass
of readers, or of the middle classes. And
they are resolved to spare neither trouble nor
expense to give effect to their purpose, of
making this Miscellany the depository of a
selection of Works on all the most interest-
ing branches of human knowledge, written by
the most approved authors, and of rendering
it as perfect, as a vehicle both of useful in-
formation and of rational entertainment, as it
can possibly be made.
The EXALTED PATRONAGE under which this
Miscellany is ushered into the world, is of
itself a sufficient pledge, that nothing will be
admitted into its pages tainted with party
politics, or which can be construed as milita-
ting, in any way, against any of the principles
of religion and morality. The object in view
is to render this Work a truly National Pub-
IV PREFACE.
lication, and which shall be equally accept-
able to readers of all parties and denomina-
tions.
In the following list, some of the various
works proposed to be embodied in this Mis-
cellany, are enumerated ; and they will ap-
pear in such order and succession as may
seem most likely to suit the taste of those
encouraging the design. The works of each
author, and each subject, will be kept sepa-
rate, so as to enable purchasers to acquire
all the numbers or volumes of any work,
distinct from the others.
Edinburgh, December 26 y 1825.
VOYAGE
TO
L O O-C H O O,
AND
OTHER PLACES IN THE
EASTERN SEAS,
IN THE YEAR 1316.
VOL.
VOYAGE
TO
THE EASTERN SEAS.
CHAPTER I.
PASSAGE FROM ENGLAND TO THE STRAITS OF SUNDA
ANJEER POINT IN JAVA CHINA HONG KONG
YELLOW SEA PEKIN RIVER HARBOUR OF OEI-
HAI-OI.
The Embassy to China under Lord Amherst sail-
ed fi-om' England on the 9th of February, 1816, hi
his Majesty's ship Alceste, Captain Murray Max-
well, accompanied by the General Hewitt, India-
man, and the Lyra a ten-gTin brig under my
command. The Indiaman canied stores and pro-
visions for the sliips of war, and various presents
intended for the Emperor of China.
During the early part of the voyage little oc-
curred that was new, or peculiarly interesting, and
on the 18th of Febniary, the squadron reached
Madeira, but did not anchor. On the 16th of
March, after crossing the Equator, and reaching the
tenth degree of South latitude, which seamen call
the heart of the trade-wind, the Alceste bore up and
4. JAVA.
proceeded to Rio de Janeiro, leaving the General
Hewitt and the Lyra to make the beet of their way
to the Cape, with orders to lay in provisions and
water. The Alceste, after staying ten days at Rio,
waa still enabled to rejoin her consorts at the Cape
by the middle of April, having run a distance of
more than three thousand miles in nineteen days.
On the 26th of that month, the Lyra received
orders to go forward with dispatches to the gover-
nor of Java, accompanied, as before, by the Ge-
neral Hewitt. The early part of this passage was
very boisterous, and the ships separated in one of
the hard North-west gales of wind which blow so
frequently in this latitude. Better weather might
have been obtained by keeping nearly in the lati-
tude of the Cape ; but it is essential to the success
of a passage from thence to Java, or to any part of
India, to run to the southward as far sometimes as
40 degrees, in which pai-allel the wind blows al-
most invariably from the westward, all round the
globe. The requisite quantity of Easting is thus
easily gained, although at the expense of some dis-
comfort, for the weather is generally tempestuous.
This point once accomplished, the ^ip's head may
be turned to the Northward, and all sail made to
reach the South-East Trade, which, now that the
ship has gone so far to the Eastward, proves a
fair wind ; whereas, had its limits been approached
sooner, it would have been directly unfavourable.
On a knowledge of these particulars, the success
of eastern navigation essentially depends ; for such
is the regularity of these phenomena, and so rigo-
rously obedient to known laws, that an experien-
ced navigator can calculate, with tolerable cer-
tainty, if he sails at a proper time of the year, upon
JAVA. 5
liaving fair winds all the way from Madeira to
Canton. To sailors ajccustomed only to the con-
fined navigation of the Atlantic, or the Mediter-
ranean, these bold stretches seem, at first sight,
an unreasonable prolongation of the voyage ; and it
does in fact require considerable resolution to steer
almost directly away from the port, for many hun-
dreds of miles, in search of a wind. In consequence
of neglecting such precautions, a stranger, impa-
tient to reach his point, is often tempted to tuni
too soon towards the North, before enough East-
ing has been run down, and accordingly, when
he enters the Trades, which he will do before he
reaches the tropic of Capricorn, he finds the wind
what seamen emphatically term scant, and can-
not steer his course. In this predicament, there is
no resource but to go back again to those higher
latitudes where westerly winds prevail, to complete
wliat a more experienced person would have se-
cured in the first instance.
In the present voyage I had no excuse for any
such en-or, having repeatedly gone over the same
ground ; but we were, nevertheless, extremely near
missing the point ; for, on reaching the Southern
edge of the trade-wind, we could just lie up, as it is
called, for the Straits of Sunda, and fifty miles less
Easting would have cost us a retmn-voyage per-
haps of a fortnight to repair the fauk. On the 5th
of June, however, at day-break, the magnificent
promontory called Java-head, came in sight, a land-
maik well known to eastern navigators, as point-
ing out the principal entrance to the China seas
from the Indian ocean. Like most of the scenery
near the Equinoctial line, it is loaded with luxu-
riant foliage, from the water's edge to the very
A 2
6 JAVA.
summit, and offers to the eye a richness and varie-
ty of tint unknown in regions nearer the Pole. This
sight and the delightful climate were grateful be-
yond description ; for during the six weeks since
we had lost sight of land, our comse had been over
a very rough sea, in cold tempestuous weather ; so
that on entering these beautiful straits, where every
mile in advance brought us successively in sight of
some one or other of the numerous islands which
adorn this fairy region, or opened some new range
or peak of the great Islands of Java and Sumatra,
we thought the eye could never tire of admiring the
prospect.
In the afternoon, the sea breeze gradually died
away, and we came to an anchor in Mew Bay, a
snug little cove, nearly surrounded by thickly-
tvooded cliffs, over which tumbled, very oppor-
tunely for us, a fine cascade of clear water, gushing
from a deep channel cut by the stream through the
lava forming tliis part of the coast. While the boats'
crews were busily engaged in filling the water-
casks, one or two of the officers endeavoured to pe-
netrate the woods in search of game ; but the jungle
was found everywhere completely impervious. The
whole forest rung with the discordant screams of
bu'ds, principally of the pan-ot tribe, dressed in a
plumage as brilliant and beautiful as their notes
were unmelodious. In every other respect, the scene
was perfectly undisturbed, nor could there be dis-
tinguished a single trace of inhabitants, or any
symptom to tell that the spot had ever been visited
since the creation. Nature seemed to revel in a
perpetual summer — for no change of season is
known here — unmolested and unobserved from age
to age.
JAVA. 7
Shortly after sunset, the hour of wliicli, in a
country only six degrees South of the Equator,
scarcely raries in a sensible degi'ee throughout the
year, a faint and chill land-breeze blew off to us from
the high mountain-side, with just strength enough
to ruffle the surface of the water for a few hundred
yards from the beach. It was charged not with
those rich perfumes with which the imagination
loads the gales of tropical countries, but with the
damp and noxious vapours of decayed vegetation ;
and as the rapid decrease of the dayhght after
sunset, soon deprived the gay landscape of all its
beauty, the brilliant romance of the scene we had
been admiiing so much, speedily vanished. The
shore was so steep, or according to nautical lan-
guage so bold, that it might be safely approached
near enough for us to partake of the light breath
of wind which stole off in occasional unsteady flaws.
We coasted in this manner along the south side
of the Straits of Sunda, till the 7th of June, when
we anchored in Anjeer Roads, directly opposite to
a little Malay village of that name, consisting of
huts built of bamboos and wattled reeds, thatched
over with palm-leaves, and almost concealed amidst
plantains, bananas, and other trees of the tropical
broad-leaved tribe. By those amongst us already fa-
miliar with such scenery, this sight, which was high-
ly characteristic, recalled a thousand recollections of
those luxurious countries, and was hailed with the
liveliest satisfaction. The effect upon others who
saw it for the first time, was almost equally striking,
though for a different reason : It opened to their
view quite a new world ; since the beauties of this
scenery are of a character for which no description
could prepare their minds.
8 JAVA.
In the moral and the poUtioal world, likewise,
there was nearly an equal degree of novelty ; for
we found ourselves at once plunged into a con-
fused maze of Dutch and Javanese politics, mixed
up with many other important and extensive Orien-
tal interests, none of which we had ever heard a
syllable about before. The island, it was known,
in a general way, was to be given up to its old
masters ; but we now had the mortification to
learn, that much if not all the good so nobly
brought about by the English while in authority,
was in danger of being utterly lost, by the establish-
ment of the old Dutch system. These topics, quite
unknown to most people in Europe, or only heaid
of in occasional whispers by the parties immediate-
ly interested, occupied here almost exclusively the
attention of every one, whether Native, Dutch, or
English. And what was amusing enough, our party,
though utter strangers to all the details of these
transactions, and of course nowise concerned in
them, by a very natural contagion, caught the spirit
of the moment, and presently began to wonder how
we had lived so long without knowing, and without
caring a straw for considerations which now ap-
peared so momentous.
For my own part, however, I took a still livelier
interest in viewing the state of manners amongst
the native Malay and Javanese inJiabitants, uncon-
scious, poor people, of the vast political changes of
wliich they were just about to become the victims.
As soon, therefore, as I could make my escape
from a dinner-party at the house of one of the Eng-
lish residents, I slipped into the village. The sound
of music attracted me to a grove of trees lying-
between the village and the sea, where a great
JAVA. 9
number of the inhabitants were assembled to cele-
brate one of their periodical festivals, regularly held,
as I learned afterwards, about the period of full
moon. The Malays were stretched on the grass in
an open space formed by a broad circular belt of
the tall and graceful cocoa-nut tree, which, how-
ever thickly it grows, never casts more than a
feathery or chequered shade on the ground, soften-
ing rather than intercepting the light. The natives
had placed themselves in a treble circle, the men
and women occupying the outer part of the ring,
while the children were squatted on the ground
within. On one side of the circle was placed a
Javanese band of music, consisting of four in-
struments which played without ceasing while the
games lasted. The tones of these instruments were
exceedingly wild and sweet ; and as the taste with
which they were struck was at all times well re-
gulated, and not in any degree boisterous or savage,
the accompaniment was not only very pleasing in
itself, but tended greatly to heighten the romantic
effect of this curious scene.
In the middle of the ring, which was about fifty
paces wide, stood two men who acted as masters
of the revels, each holding under his arm a bundle
of rattans, or canes, two feet in length. These
worthies entertained the company from time to
time with wild screams, mixed with strange ges-
ticulations and grimaces. After a short period
had elapsed, during which these men harangued
the multitude, to what purpose I could not dis-
cover, two boys, about fourteen or fifteen years
of age, stepped forward to the centre of the
arena. Here each of them was funiished by the
managers with a cane, and being then placed face
10 JAVA.
to face, at, a yard's distance from one another, they
were ordered to begin. The first proceeding, wliich
was a sort of salute, consisted in toucliing the ground
with the rods, and waving them to the com-
pany : they then approached, and each one placing
his left hand on his antagonist's right shoulder,
raised his elbow till it nearly met that of the
other, overhead ; this movement brought their bo-
dies into close contact. Both were naked, with
the exception of a slight blue cotton cloth round
the waist. In this attitude they frequently conti-
nued for several minutes, eyeing one another with
the keenest attention, holding their rattans extend-
ed in the right hand, and evidently watching for a
favourable moment to strike, the surrounding na-
tives, meanwhile, gazing on the combatants with
the most eager and breatliless anxiety, and watch-
ing for the event. The music at this period low-
ered its tones, so as just to be heaid, and the
two directors withdrew themselves to the distance
of several paces, in order to leave the ground clear
for the combatants. After they had grappled each
other in this way for some time, during which they
performed a sort of waving or bending motion with
their bodies, and described circles on the gi*ass,
one or the other, seeing his opportunity, gave his
antagonist a violent blow either on the left side, or,
more generally, on the calf of the left leg, accom-
panying the stroke with a loud yell. The instant
the blow was given, the boy who dealt it, sprang
quickly backwards, in order if he could to escape
the retaliation of his antagonist, who was never slow
to return the compliment, which he, in like man-
ner, if successful, graced with a scream more sa-
vage than any sound I recollect ever to have heard
JAVA. 1 1
before. In these cries they were accompanied by the
surrounding Malays, especially whenever a blow
happened to be given with particular effect. If
a blow was avoided with remaikable dexterity, a
shout, in like manner, testified the admiration of
the spectators, but the distiBction between these
two cries was quite obvious. I was so totally un-
prepared for such wild sounds, that my blood ran
cold when I first heard them, coming as they did,
fi'om an armed multitude of people, proverbially
reputed treacherous and blood-thirsty.
I may be excused in mentioning, by the way,
that this hai'sh reproach on the Malay character, so
long fixed upon them by most liistorians, has been
almost entirely removed by the candour and good
sense of more recent observers and TiTiters. The
admirable works of Sir Stamford Raffles, and Mr
Crawfurd, the liighest possible authorities, are quite
decisive on this point.
I imagined at first that the blows were given
in play, till, on going into the centre of the ring,
which the Malays allowed me to do, I discorered
that in every instance where they took effect pro-
perly, a gash of some inches in length was general-
ly made in the flesh. The seconds or persons in
attendance who carried the canes, made it their
business during the fight to animate the combat-
ants by speeches and gestures, and to excite them
to mutual defiance ; from which occupation they
occasionally turned aside to divert the spectators
with some ridiculous piece of buftbonery. Only
one blow by each party was allowed to be struck
at each round or time of closing. After five or six
such contests had taken place between boys of dif-
ferent ages, several couples of men stood up, one
12 JAVA.
at a time ; and the cuts which their more powerful
arms gave, were certainly the severest things, in
the way of pure sport, I ever witnessed.
The screams of the combatants were a part of
the ceremony, not the result of pain, since neither
the boys nor the men betrayed the least suffering,
however deep the wounds might be ; besides which,
I remarked that the scream or yell was always ut-
tered by the successful party, never by him who re-
ceived the blow. The perfect temper with wliich
these battles were carried on, was not the least re-
markable circumstance attending them. In one in-
stance only of about twenty which I witnessed, was
any ill humour displayed. Two men who had con-
tended for a long time to no purpose, being both
80 dexterous that neither could plant a blow, at
length lost patience, and rushing upon each other
with all the ferocity of their nature, must soon have
spilled blood, had not their crises, or short dag-
gers, been left behind as a preliminary to the fight.
In an instant also the two seconds interfered, aided
by four or five stout Malays, who sprung from the
gi'ound the moment the first symptom of anger be-
trayed itself. The men who had squabbled were
immediately dragged out of the ring, order was at
once restored, and the offending parties appeared
to return immediately to their senses, on being se-
parated, as no one took any further charge of them,
after they were expelled from the circle.
The musical instruments were four in number.
The principal one consisted of five plates of polish-
ed metal, eight or ten inches long, and two broad,
laid horizontally across the edges of a wooden
trough, two feet long, and held in their places by
wooden pegs, fixed in the edges of the trough. The
JAVA. 13
player who sat behind the frame, struck the plates
with a small hammer with his right liand, while he
varied the notes by touching the plates with the
fingers of the left. Sometimes he raised the ends
of the bars a little oflf the trough on which they
rested. In this way, by varying the direction and
intensity of the blow, a considerable range of the
sweetest musical sounds was produced. The next
instrument consisted of five burnished brass ves-
sels, not unlike small gongs, about six inches in
diameter, shaped somewhat like the bonnet of
a Highlander, with a small knob or bulge in the
centre. These vessels were placed with the open
part downwards, side by side, on two parallel
strings, stretching from end to end of a case or
frame, not unlike a small sofa. Under each vessel
was suspended an empty cocoa-nut shell, with one
end cut off, and the open part upwards ; so that the
inverted pot and the cocoa-nut presented their open-
ings respectively to each other, at the distance of
about two inches ; a contrivance which greatly im-
proves the sound. These pots were of different
sizes, and being struck with two stuffed sticks,
yielded exceedingly beautiful tones. As a running
bass to these instruments, a sort of drum was struck
rapidly by the fingers. A gong, which measured
three feet in diameter, was suspended to a hand-
some ft-ame-work ; its lips or edges were turned
slightly inwards, so that, when held vertically, it
was capable of holding in the lower part of the rim
about two pints of water ; a device used by the
Javanese musicians to give softness to the tones
of this instrument. The gong, which requires con
siderable skill to produce its proper effect, is struck
with a heavy soft beater, the knob of which appears
VOL. I. B
14 JAVA.
to be formed of elastic gum, and is never mng
in the violent manner we see practised in this
country ; but is touched gently^ and only at intei-vals
in the music, when its sonorous tones are required
to give depth to some particular passage.
Having no better guide in these matters than
my own untaught ear, I have since sought anxiously
for the opinions of qualified judges ; and it gives me
much pleasure to find that I was not misguided by
my own feelings merely, but that the Javanese
music, and musical instruments, are considered by
Sir Stamford Rafiles and Mr Crawfui'd as possess-
ing great merit. I can myeelf remember being
once attracted by the sound of music to a native's
liouse at Samarang, on this island, in 1814, when
retm-ning to my ship, after a tiresome day's work ;
yet the fascination of the music was so powerful,
that both my wearied companion and myself, nei-
ther of us extravagantly fond of music, and both
quite ignorant of it as a science, were rivetted to the
spot, and actually sat all night on the floor, on mats
kindly spread by the natives, and never moved till
the sun streamed into the open chamber next
morning.
A complete set, or Gamelan, according to Sii-
Stamford Raffles, costs from a thousand to sixteen
liundred dollars, including all the instmments, a
particular' description of which is given in his work
on Java.
Mr Crawfurd also, in his History of the Indian Ar-
chipelago, gives a complete account of the Javanese
music and instruments, wliich is rendered peculiarly
valuable, from containing the opinion of the cele-
brated Dr Crotch. This gentleman, after being sup-
plied \dth a number of Javanese airs, and having
JAVA. 15
inspected the fine collection of musical instmments
at the Duke of Somerset's, communicated his opi-
nion to ]Mr Crawfurd. " The tone of these instru-
ments," he observed, " exceeds, in depth and qua-
lity, anything I have ever heard ;" and alluding to
the instrument which I have described above, con-
sisting of a number of inverted vessels resting upon
two strings, he says, " The tone of this singular
instrument is at once powerful and sweet, and its
intonation clear and perfect." With respect to the
whole band, or Gamelan, he adds, " he is astonish-
ed and dehghted wath their ingenious fabrication,
splendour, beauty, and accm-ate intonation."
It has more than once occmTed to me that it might
prove worth while for some theatrical speculator
to import a Javanese band of musicians and instru-
ments into this country, where I am convinced they
would excite a very lively interest. The numerous
East India Company's sliips going to and returning
from China, through the Straits of Sunda, and al-
most always without passengers, would afford a
convenient means not only of bringing them from
Java, but of returning them to their homes when-
ever they pleased.
I remained in the village till long past mid-
night, witnessing these games, and wandering about
amongst the natives, who everywhere treated me
with the greatest attention, apparently flattered by
the interest I took in their customs, and pleased
perhaps by the unreserved confidence placed in
them ; for I was quite alone and unarmed.
Early next evening I went again to the village,
accompanied by one of the British residents, who
had hfioid that a INIalay maiTiage ceremony was to
take place. One of the family received us at the
16 JAVA.
door, and led us to an inner chamber of considerable
size ; round which were ranged five tables, covered
with dishes of cuitv, rice, and fish, with nume-
rous plates of sugar-cakes. Beyond this apartment,
which we were informed was shortly to be occupied
by some friends of the bride, lay another room, very
gaudily furnished with bright coloured drapery, and
hung round with numerous elegantly formed lamps,
made of split pieces of bamboo, each supporting a
shell, in which a small cotton wick was made to
float on castor oil ; an article of universal use in
Java for household purposes. Ten venerable per-
sonages, with long beards, and richly coloured
China crape dresses, were seated on a low table,
round several smoking bowls of rice, and messes of
meat cut into small pieces. These men were not
squatting cross-legged, like tailors, as our prints ge-
nerally, but falsely, represent the sitting attitude of
Orientals, which may be described more properly as
a combmation of sitting and kneeling, and is not
without gi-ace. The knees and feet are placed to-
gether, and the weight of the body rests partly on
the calves of the leg, and partly on the heels, whilst
the toes project behind, with the soles of the feet
turned upwards. The Persians, and many other
nations of the East, sit in this manner ; but the
Chinese, who in most respects diflfer from all their
neighbours, use chairs and benches as we do.
Our friends, who were busily employed dispatch-
ing their supper, stopped on om- approach, and with
great good-humom*, made room for us at their board,
and begged us to join in the mamage feast. My
companion said he saw no fun in this ; but I mount-
ed the table, and made the best use I could of my
fingers, for there were no spoons or other imple-
JAVA. ] 7
ments of the kind. There could not be a more
striking example of the difference between Maho-
metans and Hindoos, in all matters relating to eat-
ing, than this supper afforded. The Malays and
Javanese, though formerly Hindoos, are now almost
entirely followers of Mahomet ; and as such have
few of those absurd notions about food, which ren-
der the inliabitants of India the slaves of a thousand
ridiculous whims. I remember when travelling
some years ago near Poonah, being the uncon-
scious cause of destroying the dinner of a whole
family, by merely alloT\dng my shadow to fall
on theii' pot, or by walking within the circle
drawn round the fire-place, I could not exactly
discover which ; but the whole mess was thrown
away, although provisions were by no means plen-
ty. And I once saw and conversed with a man
, at Bombay, who was absolutely perishing of hun-
ger, during the famine of 1812 ; and who lite-
rally died before my eyes, rather than taste a mor-
sel of the rice which was presented to him, be-
cause it had been cooked by a man of a different
caste.
It was not until I had been for a minute ot two
on the table, that I spied the happy couple seated
in great state in a deep recess on one side of the
apartment, bolstered up with a dozen of lai'ge pil-
lows covered over with gilt trimmings. They were
the only grave persons of the company, and sat
with such fixed and demure looks, that they might
have been taken for a couple of stuffed figures,
rather than the givers of so jovial a feast. It was
evidently, however, part of the etiquette that they
should appear unmoved by whatever was passing,
and accordingly, thoy took no notice of us, or of the
B 2
18 JAVA.
multitude of people who soon filled the chamher to
gaze at the strangers.
But a traveller generally finds more to interest
him in ohserving the ordinary, every-day habits
of the people, than in witnessing ceremonies like
this, where most things are, to a certain extent, got
up for the occasion. The whole field of our view,
indeed, at Anjeer Point, was of so novel a descrip-
tion, that wherever the eye was directed, it caught
something worthy of notice.
Amongst the innumerable curious objects of this
kind, none struck me more than the method used
by the Malays of boiling rice by steam, which is
said to have been in use in Java from time im-
memorial. It is not easy to describe even the
simplest contrivances without a drawing ; but the
principle may perhaps be understood by what fol-
lows : —
The pot or boiler is a round vessel of metal, about
eighteen inches high, narrow at the middle, and
swelling out both at bottom and at top, in shape
somewhat like a sand-glass, but much less con-
tracted in the middle. The diameter of the top
and the bottom is about a foot. The water is first
poured in till it is four inches in depth, after which
is inserted a conical bag, or basket, made of a
species of grass, somewhat larger than the ves-
sel, and filled with rice. The size and form of
this bag are so adjusted, that the tip or apex of
the cone shall barely reach to the water. A heavy
earthenware bowl is also inverted over the rice, and
serves the double puipose of confining the heat, and
of adding weight to the bag, which is thus forced
tightly into the neck of the vessel, and the egress
of the steam at the sides is effectually prevented.
JAVA. 19
WTieii the water begins to boil, the steam must
of necessity find its way tlirough the interstices
of the bag amongst the rice. If the heat be conti-
nued, the steam gradually makes way to the upper
parts ; and after a time, some of it escapes through,
and is condensed on the top and sides of the bag.
As soon as this forms into drops, it falls down, and
being caught by the projecting margin of the top of
the vessel, either gradually trickles back again into
the boiler, or by forming a lake of water round
the edge, contributes to prevent any steam from
rising, except through the rice.
On arriving at a strange country one is often at
a less which to admire most, the ingenious contri-
vances by which man turns to his use the peculiar
circumstances of the climate, or the less obvious
but far more wonderful manner in which natm-e
, indicates her beneficent designs.
A beautiful example of the latter description oc-
curs not far from Anjeer Point, on the road to Ba-
tavia, in the grounds of a gentleman whom I visit-
ed along with the late Sir Samuel Hood, during a
journey over great part of Java. Our host carried
us to see a singular tree which had been brought
from the island of Madagascar, called familiarly the
Traveller's Friend ; Urania being, I believe, its bo-
tanical name. From the representation of it given
in the vignette, in the title-page of this volume,
it will be seen to differ from most other trees
in having all its branches in one plane, like the
sticks of a fan, or the feathers of a peacock's tail.
At the extremity of each branch there grows a broad
double leaf, several feet in length, M^hich spreads
itself out in a very graceful manner. These leaves
have tlie pioporty of radiating heat so rapidly,
20 JAVA.
after the sun retires, that a copious depositiou
of dew takes place upon them ; this soon collect-
ing into drops, forms little streams, which mn
down the branches to the trunk. Here it is recei-
ved into hollow spaces of considerable magnitude,
one of which is found at the root of every branch.
These branches, it will be observed in the drawing,
lie one over the other alternately, and when a loiife,
or, which is better, a flat piece of stick, for it is not
necessary to cut the tree, is inserted between the
parts which overlap, and slightly drawn to one side,
so as to cause an opening, a stream of water gushes
out as if from a fountain. Hence the appropriate
name of the Traveller's Friend.
On the 9th of June the Alceste arrived from the
Cape of Good Hope with the Embassy, an event
which naturally excited so great a sensation in the
village, that all farther inquiry into the native habits
became impossible. The ordinary employments
and amusements of the Javanese were discontinued,
and the order of interest inverted, as we ourselves
now became the chief objects of attraction, instead
of being the curious observers. In the course of the
evening of the next day, however, Lord Amherst,
accompanied by most of his suite, walked into the
village to visit the native chief of the district, a fine
old Malay. He received us with much dignity of
manner, and seemed highly flattered by the honour
which was done him. The walls of his house, like
most of the rest in this primitive spot, consisted
merely of light basket-work, made sufficiently
open to admit the cool night-wind, which swept very
agi'eeably across the room. It was the chiefs inten-
tion to have entertained the Ambassador with a dance
of native girls to the music of a full Javanese band,
CHINA. 21
vvliich, in consequence of my description, his lord-
ship had become very anxious to hear. This enter-
taimnent, however, was prevented in rather a lu-
dicrous manner. Some of our sailors employed
in filling the water-casks at the stream which pass-
ed by the village, had contrived to elude the vigi-
lance of then* officers, and to get hold of some
toddy, or fermented juice of the cocoa-nut tree.
This mounting into their heads, disposed them,
in imitation of his Excellency, to go in quest of
adventm-es. The first object which engaged Jack's
attention in this stolen march, was one of the
Jarge, red, smooth-skinned buffaloes of the island,
tied to a bush near the chiefs house. Tlie men
and the beast were mutually strangers to one an-
other's appearance, but the effect on each was dif-
ferent ; for while the sailors were lost in mirth
and surprise at the novelty of the sight, which it
must be ouTied was very remarkable, fear alone as-
sailed the buffalo, who soon broke loose, and scam-
pered off* towards the village. The seamen, delight-
ed to have a hunt, as they called it, puisued the ani-
mal through the streets, waving their hats, and
shouting Tally ho! to the amaze and terror of thcx
Malays, who fled in all directions to the jungle.
The chief sent repeated messages to the fugitive
figurantes and musicians, but all his authority was
insufficient to collect the scattered corps du ballet
of the village.
On the 12tb of June the Ivvra was once more
dispatclied before the other ships of the squadron,
witli letters from the Ambassador to the English
authorities at Canton, apprising them of his ap-
proach, and pointing out a rendezvous where Sir
George Staunton, chief of the Factory, and the
22 CHINA.
Other gentlemen who were to accompany the Em-
bassy, might fall in with his Lordship.
Owing to light winds, calms, and currents, it was
not till the 7th of July that we made the coast of
Cliina ; the South-west monsoon, which blows in
summer over the Chinese and Japanese oceans, not
having yet fully set in. On the next day, we com-
municated with the chief of the Factory, already
waiting for us on board the Discovery. This ship be-
longed to the Bombay Marine, and was under the
command of Captain Daniel Ross, an officer of great
science and industry, well known to every eastern
navigator as the most extensive, and at the same
time the most accurate, of nautical surveyors. Both
ships lost no time in repairing to the appointed sta-
tion, and in a few days the Alceste and General
Hewitt joined us at the rende2rvous.
Serious difficulties now arose as to our hitm*e
movements. A letter announcing the Prince Re-
gent's intention of sending an Embassy to China had
been received at Canton, and forwarded to the Em-
peror, some weeks before our arrival, the answer to
which was homly expected. But there was great
reason to fear that the reply would be unfavourable
to the mission, in which event, its further progress
towards a sea-port near the capital would be a mea-
sure of very doubtful propriety. And even admit-
ting that the Embassy were not to be rejected al-
together, it was conjectured by the residents best
acquainted with the Chinese usages, that the Em-
peror would assign Canton as a landing place, which
would be exceedingly inconvenient, as the distance
is upwards of a thousand miles fiom the capital.
This apprehension was founded on the well-known
practice of the Chinese, whose constant study it had
CHINA. 23
been to render access to the court as difficult as pos-
sible. It was finally resolved, after much discussion,
to put the most favouiable construction on the mat-
ter ; to take it for granted, in short, that the Am-
bassador was to be favom-ably received, and to push
on without delay for the Pel Ho river, the nearest
to Pekin of any part of the sea-coast of China. It
was contended, that once fairly on the threshold of
the celestial empu'e, we should be less exposed to
the operation of those multifarious intrigues, tln-ough
which it is said everything necessarily must pass,
if discussed at Canton.
It was indispensably necessary, however, be-
fore steering to the Northwaixl, into seas so little
known, to complete our stock of water ; and we
made sail accordingly for the island of Hong Kong,
one of the great cluster called the Ladrones. Here
we found a noble cascade ; and the night being per-
fectly calm, wkh a sea as smooth as a mill-pond, in
consequence of the anchorage being land-locked on
every side by lofty islands, we filled our water-
casks easily, and towed them on board in rafts of
ten or twenty at a time ; an expeditious method,
but practicable only when the distance happens to
be small, and the sea unruffled. It was almost dai'k
when we anchored, but the moon, which was
nearly at the full, rose shortly afterwards above
the hills. The islands in this quarter lay so close
to one another, that even in the day time, it was
difficult to discover any outlet, but at night the
mountains appeared to form a continuous barrier.
The nature of the ground also being black and un-
broken, it seemed as if the ships had been transport-
ed by some magical process to the centre of a soli-
tary lake, lying in the bosom of a Highland glen.
24 CHINA.
Soon after we had taken up our station near the
water-fall, but before this curious basin was light-
ed by the moon, and when the most perfect silence
prevailed over the whole scene, a fleet of several
hundreds of Chinese fishing-boats suddenly advan-
ced, in large groups of forty or fifty each, from
behind the islands. They were rowed about with
great celerity from place to place, and in each boat
two or three men stood in the bow, with flaming
torches in their hands, which they waved backwards
and forwards, while others of the crew were em-
ployed in beating, in the most fuiious manner,
large gongs, suspended to the masts ; and to give
full force and finish to this extraordinary serenade,
a chorus of yells and shouts was set up from all
the boatmen at the full stretch of their voices —
an uproar which awakened the echoes on all the
smTounding hills, and rendered the whole scene so
truly diabolical, that the sailors, astonished and de-
lighted at this sudden irruption, insisted upon it,
that a legion of Chinese devils must surely have
been let loose, to frighten away the Ambassador.
But this tumultuous and amusing uproar was evi-
dently intended to drive the fish from the centre
of the harbour into nets placed across the narrow
channels between the surrounding islands. It was
just high water when the boats first broke in upon
the stillness of the scene, and in about half an hour,
when the ebb tide began to run gently to the East-
ward, our noisy friends allowed themselves to be
gradually drifted out, greatly to the relief of those
contented voyagers amongst us who preferred a
sound sleep to the observation of new manners.
The weather, which at first had been favourable,
changed next day, and during the 11th and 12th
CHINA. 25
of July, our operations were seriously interrupted
by constant hea\y rain, and violent squalls of wind.
Even had the watering been completed, the wind,
which was from East-north-east, must have pre-
vented our sailing. We ascertained also, much to
our annoyance, that the Viceroy of Canton had
contrived to discover our retreat, and a report
prevailed that the local authorities were on their
way in a body, to insist upon the Ambassador re-
maining on the spot till the answer came from
Pekin. But just at the moment when our anxiety
was raised to the highest pitch, to our great joy
the Emperor's reply was received and conveyed
on board by an express from the Factory. This
smoothed all our difl&culties, since it appeared the
intention of government to receive the mission fa-
vourably, and to allow of their landing near the
capital.
On the 13th, accordingly, we set sail for the
North of China, and steered through the Straits of
Formosa, which lie between the great island of that
name and the continent. The best charts on board
were soon discovered to be nearly useless, for we
frequently stumbled upon large groups of islands,
headlands, and bays, of which np mention had ever
been made. At first this groping sort of navigation
was trying enough for the nerves ; but even at its
worst moments, it possessed a high degree of in-
terest from its novelty and variety. The Lyia be-
ing the vessel of the least draught of water in the
fleet, was sent about half a league before the rest,
her duty being to sound the way, and to sig-nify by
signals the number of fathoms water obtained by
the lead-line.
It may not be unimportant to mention, that
VOL. I. c
2b CHINA.
in this important and delicate service, we were
greatly aided by Massey'H patent Sounding ma-
chine, an instrument of the highest utility, as it
enables the navigator to obtain an accurate know-
ledge of the depth of water, without altering the
ship's course, or retarding her progi-ess for an in-
stant, and without requiring the exposure of nearly
the usual number of men, a consideration of im-
portance, in cold and rainy w^eather. This admira-
able invention is equally useful in unknown seas,
and in those where the depth of water is ascertain-
ed to an inch. And I feel it right to take this op-
portunity of recommending its use, being well as-
sm-ed, from many years' trial, on this and other
voyages, and under all circumstances, that in no
other way can the same degree of accuracy be ob-
tained.
On the 25th of July we rounded the promon-
tory of Shantung, and entered the Yellow Sea;
after which we coasted along at no great distance
from the land, and the weather being quite clear,
our view of the shore was most satisfactory. On
the evening of the same day, I was dispatched to
the Westward along with Mr Toone, a gentle-
man of the Factory, well acquainted with the Chi-
nese language, who was charged with a letter to the
chief Mandaiins at our proposed landing place, Ta
Coo, near the mouth of the Peldn River. As the
Chinese publish at regular intervals a sort of red
book, in which the names of all the servants of go-
vernment ai*e mentioned, the embassy easily ascer-
tained at every place they came to, the names of
the men in authority.
We sailed on dii'ectly across this shallow sea,
for two whole days, without seeini.- land, auxl gra-
CHINA. 27
dually diminisliing the depth of water, till at last
we began to have some apprehension that we should
fairly stick in the mud, before our object was ac-
complished. At sunset on the 27th, no land could
he perceived from the mast-head, although we were
in less than five fathoms water. Before it became
quite dark, however, we caught just a glimpse of
the tops of some tall trees, after which we anchor-
ed in twenty-one feet water. Before the day broke
next morning, however, the tide had fallen a whole
fathom, which brought the ship's bottom within
three feet of the ground. Our business, however,
being to open a communication with the shore at
all hazards, the anchor was weighed, and sail again
made to the Westward. It was soon afterwards
discovered, that the Brig was actually sailing along
with her keel in the mud, which was sufficiently
indicated by a long yellow train in our wake. Some
inconvenience was caused by this extreme shallow-
ness, as it retarded our head-way, and affected the
steering ; but there was in reality not much danger,
as it was ascertained, by forcing long poles into
the ground, that for many fathoms below the sur-
face on which the sounding-lead rested, and from
which level the depth of water is estimated, the
bottom consisted of nothing but mud formed of an
impalpable powder, without the least particle of
sand or gravel.
The water at every part of this sea over which
we were sailing, was contaminated by the intermix-
ture of mud slightly yellow in its colour, and hence
its appropriate name. In process of time, the de-
posits from the innumerable streams which fall
into this great gulf from China and Tartary, must
fill it entirely up, and the Yellow Sea will beconus
28 CHINA.
a vast alluvial district, like Bengal, or Egypt. The
present inclination of the bottom is about a foot in
a geogi'aphical mile, or somewhat less than one in
five thousand ; and it is probable that the bottom
of the Yellow Sea, as it rises, will likewise gradual-
ly approximate to a horizontal plain.
Our next difl&culty was how to send the Ambas-
sador's letter ; and in order to inquire into this
point, Mr Toone and I rowed to a Chinese fishing
junk lying at anchor not far from us. The people
on board of her received us with much cordial-
ity, and placing a bench for us on their quarter-
deck, made us sit down. Theii- dialect was so
different from that of the South, that Mr Toone
Lad some difficulty in making himself understood
by speech ; but the instant he had recourse to the
written language, every man in the boat under-
stood him. The curiosity of these people, parti-
cularly respecting our dress, was very amusing ;
and while the interpreter was engaged with the
commander of the junk, I fell into the hands of the
€rew, who begged leave to take off and examine
one of my shoes, unbuttoned the epaulettes from
my shoulders, and expressed the greatest wonder
at every part of my dress, different in all respects
from their own. In the course of this overhaul, to
which I most willingly submitted, they lighted on
a pocket compass, the nature of which they com-
prehended immediately, for three or four of them
carried it off to compare with their own needle.
As the Chinese compass differs totally from ours,
not only in construction but in appearance, it was
curious to observe how quickly these rude fisher-
men detected, under all its disguises, that identity
in principle, which renders the mysterious agency
CHINA. 29
of the magnet subservient to the Immblest, as well
as to the most scientific purposes of navigation, in
every climate, and in every stage of society. It
was quite natural, therefore, that these boatmen,
without reasoning much on the matter, should be
dehghted to discover a point of resemblance be-
tween us in so important a particular, and they re-
turned the compass ^vith much complacency.
A shower of rain drove us about this time to
tl;e cabin, a neat little apaitment, round which were
spread a few fur skins, and very comfortable pil-
lows in small pigeon-holes, or sleeping-buths. On
the table lay a pile of copper money threaded on
a cord by means of small square holes in the centre
of the coin; numerous printed Chinese books were
lying about, and everything which caught the eye
, spoke the language of another region. The peculi-
arity, however, which struck us as being the most
remai'kable about these people, was the well-known
long tuft or tail, reaching from the back of the head
nearly to the ground ; all the rest of the head being
shaved. This fashion was, I believe, forcibly imposed
upon the nation about two centuries ago by their
Tartar conquerors, who being comparatively few in
numbers, endeavoured to conceal their wealoiess by
obliging the whole Chinese nation to adopt their
dress. It is a hardship so grievous to a Chinese to
alter any established custom, that, as we leani from
an old Jesuit writer, nearly as many persons suffer-
ed on the scaffold for refusing to crop their locks,
as had been killed in action dining a long and bloody
war. Tlie Tartars, however, had the sword in their
hands, and this gi-eat revolution in dress was at last
completely effected, with two singular exceptions :
the executioners all over China wear the old and
c 2
30 CHINA.
graceful dress of the country ; and the stage-players
invai'iably appear in the same degraded costume.
Yet such is the effect of custom, that nothing in our
dress or maimers excited so much siuprise in these
people, or appeared more preposterous in their eyes,
than our contriving to exist without these long tails.
Our friends could not be prevailed upon to carry
the letter on shore ; but as they had been very kind,
we wished to ingratiate ourselves with them, and
begged their acceptance of a couple of dollars as
we were coming away. Tlie Captain and his crew
assembled in a ring, and turned over the pieces
from hand to hand, just as I have seen a group
of monkeys do when puzzled with some new object.
They were not satisfied with our gift upon further
examination, and wished to return it ; but finding
us determined not to take back the money, very
unceremoniously pitched it into the boat as we
rowed away.
Having failed in this attempt to communicate
with the shore, through the medium of the natives,
we returned on boai'd, with the intention of send-
ing one of our ot\ti boats next day. jMeanwhile the
squadron were descried at a distance in the offing,
where, on account of the shallowness of the water,
they were obliged to anchor.
Early next morning two lai-ge junks came to-
wards us from the shore, one of which anchored
at no great distance, while the other, to our sur-
prise, sailed as a boat would do straight along-
side of the Lyra, her great masts nearly sweeping
away our lower yards. In the next instant we were
boarded by two Chinese officers, middle-aged,
portly, comfortable-looking Mandarins, with very
dark mahogany-coloured faces. Each of them wore
CHINA. 31
on his head a conical cap, sun-ounded by the usual
distinguishing button, from whicli depended a ring-
let of red floss silk on one side.
The Chinese dress is too well known to require
description ; but as this was the first occasion on
which most of our party had seen it, except on tea-
cups and saucers, it excited a considerable sensa-
tion all over the ship. I have often observed, that
in remote countries, there is a peculiar Idnd of in-
terest in ivdtnessing realities, after a long familiar-
ity with the mere representation. The imagination
is so much habituated to contemplate the copy, that
it naturally comes to take the place of the original,
and when at last we see the thing itself, it has the
full merit of novelty, with the addition of some-
thing more. I well remember the first time I saw
Chinese houses and people at Pulo Penang, in the
Straits of Malacca. For a long time I could not
help associating them with their prototypes on
crockery ; so that whenever I met Fakee, as Chi-
namen ai-e familiarly called in the English settle-
ments, I was disposed to laugh in his face, fi-om the
ridiculous personification he exhibited of a gi'eat
fire-screen or a pimch-bowl.
The youngest of the two Mandarins, who was
the senior in rank, and a very merry personage,
made himself at home in a moment : — he laugh-
ed, joked, and skipped about, examining everything
more like a child than a grave public function-
ary. On entering tlie cabin, to which our guests were
invited, our merry friend placed himself unceremo-
niously, but not rudely, at the head of the table, and
reachisig his arm out, drew a book from the library^
opened it, and, with gi-eat affected formality, turned
the leaves backwards and forwards till he liehted
32 CHINA.
upon the title-page. He then held it uj) b(.*foie him,
examined it with his eyes nearly closed, — turned it
upside down, — sideways, and in every direction, —
twisting his face into all sorts of ridiculous forms,
expressive of his amusement and surprise at the
strangeness of what he saw ; — then jumping on liis
feet, displayed the book to his wondering attend-
ants, w^ho had taken possession of the sky-light,
and were thrusting their heads down to see what
was going on. I entertained them with cherry
brandy, wliich, though quite new to them, seemed
to suit both master and man, for the Mandarins
no sooner drank, than they filled then- glasses again,
and were not contented till all their attendants had
followed so good an example. Cheixy brandy, a
species of liquor ada^Jted to the taste of all countries,
is a universal bribe amongst rude as well as civi-
lized nations ; the combined strength and sweetness,
added to the fine deep colour of this insinuating be-
verage, are indeed so irresistible, that I would re-
commend no voyager to omit taking a good supply
on board, as he will find its use on many occasions,
when graver lessons fail.
It was now high time to come to business ; and
we were glad to find the Mandaiins willing to re-
turn to Ta Koo immediately with our letter. The
interpreter found much less difficulty in communi-
cating with these men, who were persons of edu-
cation, than with the boatmen \vhom we \'isited the
day before ; but it was still necessary sometimes
to have recourse to the T\Titten language. The
Chinese write generally with a bmsh and Indian
ink, on a fine silky paper ; but in conversation it is
often sufficient to describe the character on their
Iiands, or even in the air with the end of their fans.
CHINA. S3
During this intemew, it happened that one of the
Mandarins, observing that liis meaning expressed
in words was not understood, and wishing to write
it down, looked about for pen and ink, but not
seeing any, and being in a hurry to rectify the mis-
take, dipped his finger, without apology, into his
neighbour's glass, for the contents of his own had
long disappeared, and painted the symbols on the
table.
It was some time before we could get the ship
cleared of oiu* guests, for while the chiefs were
pledging the Emperor in cheiTy brandy, the boat-
men were taken in charge by the sailors, who, in
like manner, were initiating them, with great suc-
cess, into the mysteries of grog and salt-beef.
As soon as the junks left us, we tripped our an-
chor, and rejoined the squadron, anchored far at sea
in twenty-seven feet water. The weather now be-
came so unsettled that there was no communica-
tion fi-om the shore till the fourth of August, when
two Mandarins, who had been ordered to attend
the Ambassador, came on board to pay their re-
spects to his Lordship. They sailed at once along-
side, in great junks, nearly as high as the fri-
gate ; and when made fast, the Mandarins scrambled
up the side with some diflSculty, owing to the load
of state-robes with which they had encumbered
themselves for the occasion. Previously to ap-
proaching the ship, two visiting cards were dis-
patched by an inferior officer fi'om these great per-
sons, which, according to our notions, were absurd
enough, as they were at least a foot and a half in
length, and not less than a foot wide. They were
made of red-coloured paper, with the name and
title written in a perpendicular line in the centre.
34 CHINA.
The senior Mandarin, who wore a blue ball, was
an officer on the civil establishment, while his com-
panion, whose button was of red coral, belonged
to the military ; — it being the policy of their jea-
lous court always to divide the authority of such
commissions, hoping in this way to neutralize the
ascendancy of either order. The principal officer
employed on the delicate service of conducting the
embassy through the country, and called by us the
Legate, did not make his appearance to-day, being
much too gi'eat a personage to tnist himself eight
or ten miles on the open sea, merely to pay a visit
of ceremony. He therefore wisely sent his deputies
for that purpose, and charged them with many civil
messages.
One of these Mandarins brought off his son with
him, a fine little boy, whose presence contributed
materially to break down the ice of ceremony. In
ouj- subsequent voyage, we frequently saw the same
thing practised with gi'eat success. A portion of
the unaffected familiarity ^vitli which most people
are disposed to treat a child, always glances off to
the parent, and, as we found, re-acted upon our-
selves, and gave birth to that sort of cordiahty so
useful in forwarding the intercourse of perfect stran-
gers. Upon, the present occasion, the first during
whieh any real business was transacted, both par-
ties naturally felt a little cautious and distrustful
of the other, feelings which prevailed more or less
during the whole interview. Just as the Man-
darins, however, were leaving the ship, and while
Lord Amherst and all the officers were standing
on the deck to see them away, the little boy came
forward, and, with much gracefulness of manner,
kneeled to the Ambassador, and held out his hand.
CHINA. 35
with an arch and playM expression of countenance,
wliich it was impossible to resist. At this moment
Lord Amherst's own son, about the same age as
the young Mandarin, came forward and was pre-
sented to oui* visitors, who, instead of going im-
mediately into their boat, as they had proposed,
turned cheerfully round and remained some time
longer on board ; all parties, from that period, being
relieved from much needless formality.
To those who like myself had leisure to watch
what was going on, the occasion was fertile in
scenes of interest. I observed that, no sooner had
the military Mandarin performed his ofl&cial pai't,
and returned to his own junk, than he hastened to
his crib of a cabm, flung off his robes, Ms crape
petticoat, his great unwieldy velvet boots, with
soles an inch thick, and hia fantastical cap, and
issuing forth with his pipe hanging out of one side
of his mouth, and a paii* of slippers on his feet, ap-
peared on the deck of his vessel without one trace
of the grandee left. So anxious indeed was he to
remove from our minds the idea of his being natu-
rally the grave and austere personage we had seen
before, that he immediately set about monkey tricks,
as they are called at sea, and diverted himself with
throwing peaches to the young midshipmen, who,
in a coiTespondent taste, had climbed into the rig-
ging, and were not slow to better this insti-uction.
During the preceding interview, more than a
dozen sail of junks had assembled near and along-
side the ship ; and as each one tried to get nearer
than his neighbour, a fine scramble and racket took
place, with abundance of altercation, and, if there
be any analogy between the sea-ports of different
countries, I dare say au ample allowance of oatiirs
36 CHINA.
and scurrility. Both these were lost upon us ; but
the tones, the gesticulations, the angry looks of the
disputants, the whole scene, in short, was infinite-
ly comic. Yet there was no lack of discipline
amidst all this strange turmoil ; for no sooner had
a gong sounded on board the commodore's junk,
than it was answered by the ringing of others in
each vessel, and in an instant all the Chinese left
their disputes and scampered back, every one to
his own vessel, when they all pushed off and an-
chored about a cable's length from the ship.
A new scene now succeeded. Eight large junks,
all bearing broad flags and swallow-tailed pendants,
amongst which the imperial dragon was the most
conspicuous, came sailing up, and dexterously placed
their imwieldy masses alongside of the ship. These
vessels were loaded with a present sent to the squa-
dron by order of the Emperor. It may be amu-
sing to specify the articles, selected, it must be
owned, with some judgment, considering the length
of time we had been at sea. There were ten good-
sized bullocks, twenty sheep, as many hogs, and a
hundred ducks and fowls, besides a great store of ve-
getables, and many boxes of tea. The bearers of
this welcome offering were admitted at their own
request, and with great good-will on our part, to see
the ships, over which they roved in parties of eight
or ten each, to examine everything with the great-
est care. The seamen, who were delighted with
the Emperor's liberality, and the prospect of a
fresh meal, were greatly entertained with the od-
dity of the Chinese dress and manners, and paid
them the most obsequious attention, escorting them
roimd the decks like ladies, smoothing down their
long tails, joking and talking with them, apparent-
CHINA. 37
ly unconscious, or, if conscious, not caring, whether
John Chinaman, as they called him, understood
them or not. It is Jack's custom, wherever he
goes, to call every one he encounters abroad a mere
outlandish-man, forgetting that it is himself alone
who is so. Should the people he meets with
happen to understand a word or two of English,
he is satisfied, and they ai'e set down for sensible
people; otherwise he pities theb ignorance, and
laughs at the folly of their designating common
things by names strange to his eais. I remember
once overhearing the conversation of two of my
sailors in the streets of Valparaiso, who had only
been a few days in the country ; one said to the
other, " "Wliat do you think of these people ?" —
" Why," replied liis companion, with a look of
thorough contempt, " will you believe it — the in-
fernal fools call a hat Sombrero !"
The only circumstance which thi'eatened to dis-
turb the haimony subsisting between us and cm-
visitors, arose from a prank played off upon them
by some of our youngsters. The strangers were
courteously invited to sit down in the midship-
men's birth ; but when they attempted to rise,
found themselves fixed like Gulliver, for then-
wicked entertainers had tied each by the long tail
to the back of his chair. At first the astonished
Mandarins were much incensed ; but the oddity
of the scene was so irresistible, that even the suf-
fering parties presently joined in the laugh. The
story soon got abroad, and ever afterwards, the
Chinese, before venturing between decks, took the
preca.ution of coiling their tufts round their heads,
out of the reach of such practical jokes.
When the morning brolcc on the 5th of August,
VOL. I. D 2
38 CHIN/V.
we found oui-selves surrounded, to tlie distance of
a quarter of a mile in every diiection, by junks, at-
tracted from all parts of the adjacent coast by the
wonderful sight of European ships. Some of these
vessels were of great dimensions, towering above
the water, in form and size more like castles than
ships ; while others were so diminutive, that it was
wonderful how they dared to tnist themselves so
far off at sea. Most of them were lying at anchor ;
but a few of the more cmious continued sailing
round the ships, expressing by shouts and admu-ing
gestures, the liveliest satisfaction at what they saw.
I manned my gig to make an excm^sion amongst
these boats, whjen I found many of the people in
motion, even at this early hour, the sun being hai'dly
above the horizon, and delighted to have a nearer
view of the strangers. On board one junk, the cap-
tain and crew, who were just going to breakfast,
entreated me to join them, an invitation which, all
things recollected about the nature of Chinese die-
tetics, I had no great mind to accept. Nevertheless,
keeping dogs and cats as much as possible out of my
thoughts, I put a good face upon the matter, and sat
down. The deck, spread over with a neat grass mat,
was our table, tlie breakfast consisted of five or six
bowls of finely-boiled rice, as white as snow, with
a variety of savoury hashes and stews ; and in the
centre of all stood a large smoking dish, containing
what looked very like an omelet. Their di'ink, a sort
of weak spirit not unlike whisky diluted, was hand-
ed round by the attendants in very diminutive tea-
cups, I had intended merely to go through the
ceremony of tasting a morsel of rice, to please these
kind people, but ended by making a hearty meal, to
the unspeakable delight of the Cliineee boatmen.
CHIXA." 39
On the 9th of Au^st, 1816s the ambassador
aiid suite landed at the town of Tacoo, about a
mile from the mouth of the Pei Ho. On entering
the river, a salute of three guns was fii'ed from a for-
tification on the southern side. The gxms were thrust
into the ground, and fired perpendicularly in the
air, to avoid, as the Chinese told us, the possibi-
lity of any accident. The fort exactly resembled
these showy castles we see painted on china-ware,
and was about as large as those redoubtable strong
places introduced in Astley's amphitheatre. The
military, drawn up to salute the ambassador as he
passed, were quite in chai^acter with the fortress ;
the greater number being armed with bows and
aiTows, while many carried nothing but spears, to
the ends of which were fixed small flags, and eight
or ten formidable-looking warriors strutted in front,
with match-locks on their shoulders. The banks
of the river, beyond which we could distinguish no-
thing but an extensive flat marshy country, were
crowded with people ; and thousands of boats, as-
sembled from all quarters, nearly choked up the
passage.
Here we took leave of the embassy ; and, for
five months afterwards, never heard a single word
that could be depended upon respecting their move-
ments. On the 1 1th of August, when the ships left
the anchorage, the Alceste and Discovery steered to
the Northward, to examine the Gulph of Lestung ;
while the Lyra and the Investigator, a ship belong-
ing to the surveying service, sailed round the Gulph
of Petchelee lying to the South. The details of
these surveys, however curious and instructive in
a professional point of view, and useful to future
navigators, possess no popular interest. On the
40 CHINA.
22(1 of August, the whole Rquatlron were re-assem-
bled at Cbe-a-tou Bay, already sufficiently descri-
bed in the accounts of the former embassy. They
remained for a few days in this harbour, to refit
the rigging, and on the 26th proceeded together
along the coast of Shantung, to the Eastward, as
far as the harbour of Oei-hai-oi. This place, which
was not mentioned on any of our maps, had probably
never been visited by any European : As the na-
tives of this part of China could therefore have had
no previous intercourse with strangers, and very
probably, were not aware that any other nation ex-
isted, it may be worth while to describe the nature
of our reception. And I do so the more readily,
because the result of our observations was rather
favourable than othei-wise to the Chinese character.
It ought always to be rcmembered, that most
of the information which we possess in Europe on
the subject of China, consists of what we hear from
day to day respecting the state of society at the
gi-eat sea-port of Canton. But it is obviously as un-
fair to judge of the Chinese by such data, as it woidd
be to estimate the character of the Enghsh from
such mateiials as Rotherhithe and Wapping might
afford. Yet our judgment is insensibly warped by
these reiterated statements, and we forget the more
favourable pictures drawn by the high authority of
Barrow, Du Halde, and others, whose means ex-
tended so much farther. Undoubtedly the Chinese
have to thank their own narrow policy wliich con-
fines our observation to one spot, for all tliis pre-
judice and en-or. But this should not make us less
desirous of getting at the tnith when an opportu-
nity such as the present occurs, of seeing the in-
habitants in a remote part of the empire, where
CHINA. 41
tliey aie unsophisticated by external influence, and
where the laws and usages of the countiy alone may
be supposed to regulate their manners.
As we stood up the bay, numerous boats crowd-
ed alongside, and the people leaping fiom them,
soon filled our dscks. They were freely permitted
to examine everything, and even to go into the
cabins, without being watched ; yet not a single
article was missed, although, had anything been
stolen, detection would have been almost impossi-
ble. After we had anchored, several Mandarins
came on board, with whom we tried to open a
communication, but having no good interpreter,
we failed in making ourselves well understood.
Our chief object was to obtaui a supply of fresh
provisions and vegetables, as the Emperor's 'pre-
sent had speedily disappeared. In the afternoon,
it was thought right to return the visit of the local
authorities who had come on board in the moni-
iug. Accordingly we proceeded to the village,
which, like most we had seen on this part of the
coast, was so much enveloped by the rich foliage
of trees planted in the streets, that not above a
tenth part of the houses could be seen at one time.
The whole population crowded to the shore to re-
ceive us ; and many persons, to obtain a better
view of the strangers, ran up to their middle in the
water, whilst every boat's mast, house top, and
tree, was thickly clustered over with wondering
faces. After landing we were escorted along by
many hundreds of both sexes, whose curiosity got
so completely the better of their good manners,
that at times our way was absolutely blocked up,
and we were well nigh choked in tlte crowd. It
was therefore a great relief to get into the Man-
d2
42 CHINA.
darin's house, a neat and even elegantly furnished
mansion. The walls were finely papered, and or-
namented with some spirited landscapes, sketched
in Indian ink, and several fantastical highly-finish-
ed drawings of their portly deities or sages, whom
it is their delight to represent in this manner ; cor-
pulence being with them an infallible symptom of
wisdom and dignity. The windows consisted of a
frame-work of cross bars, forming spaces of two
inches square, covered with oiled paper or blue
gauze, contrivances to soften the glare, of light, out
of doors almost insupportable. The Mandarins
were extremely glad to see us ; made us take chairs,
entertained us with tea, hot wine, and sweet cakes,
and appeared most desirous to find out what we
were in want of. We succeeded very well in every
part of our interpretation, excepting in the primary
articles of bullocks and vegetables. Whenever the
conversation took this turn, our interpreter somehow
or other could never make them imderstand what
we would be at. This interpreter, by the way,
was not of the best description, being merely an
under-servant of the Factory, who ought to have
accompanied the embassy, but by accident was left
behind. As he spoke English imperfectly, and we
had no great opinion of his honesty, we were more
at his mercy than was at all agreeable. We ought
undoubtedly to have been accompanied by one of
the gentlemen of the Establishment, who could
wiite and speak the language of the country ; but
in the bustle of the more important matters rela-
ting to the embassy, our wants in this respect were
never thought of till it was too late.
By the time this visit of ceremony was over,
the mob had dispersed, and we separated into dif-
CHINA. 43
ferent parties, to stroll about the coimtry, no sort of
objection being made to our doing so. I have often
remarked that on these occasions, where no harm
is intended, and the gratification of curiosity the only
object, the best way is to go straight forward, with-
out putting difficulties into the people's heads, by
seeming to imagine any permission necessary. At
least during this voyage, whenever we began by
soliciting leave to walk into the country, or to look
at anything, our request was almost invariably re-
fused. It is always easy enough to discover when
such a proceeding is really disagreeable or impro-
per ; and it seems then full time to turn back.
The first house we visited, at some distance in
the country, was surrounded by a wall or fence,
made of neatly-wattled twigs. On the steps before
the door sat a woman sewing, who as soon as she be-
held the appaiition of half a dozen strange-looking
men, screamed out, threw down her work, and in
spite of all our attempts to pacify her, continued to
alarm the neighbourhood with her cries. Amongst
the people who came to her relief was a middle-
aged man, probably her husband, who, with great
roughness, turned us round by the shoulders, march-
ed us out of his grounds, and pointed to the ships.
There was no mistaking this, and finding our elo-
quence only augmented the lady's fury, and the
honest man's indignation, we gave up the point, and
turned from this uncivil couple towards a party of
men and women employed in winnowing com. This
was done on a hard smooth mud floor, raised three
feet above the level of the field, near a farm-house.
We observed that they first beat the corn with flails,
not unlike a watchman's rattle, and then tossed it
into the, air, that the wind might blow away tlie
44- " CWINA.
disfff. One of the farmers sliowed me a small double
drill-plough, and when I expressed some curio-
sity about these matters, he put the plough into
my hands, implying that he wished me to keep it.
In the course of the evening he brought it on
board, but would accept nothing in return. We
succeeded in gaining ground much better with
this group than with the scolding lady, chiefly by
making friends in the first instance of the children,
to whom we gave buttons, curtain rings, and such
trifles as we had put in oui* pockets on leaving the
ship. This speedily opened a way to the good will
of the parents, and as soon as we observed them
softening a little in then* reserve, we engaged their
full attention and respect, by allowing them a peep
through the telescope, always an object of great
wonder to such people ; after this had gone round
the circle, we produced the pocket-compass, which
they stai'ed at with great delight, and a sight of our
watches completed the treaty of amity between us.
While this was going on, a countryman diiving
a donkey loaded with vegetables, joined the paity.
We instantly tried to open a traffic with him for
his whole cargo, but here an unexpected difficulty
arose. He knew so little, of our money, that he re-
fused to part with his vegetables in exchange for
Spanish dollars, a coin we had always been taught to
believe passed current in every comer of the earth.
All the trinkets we had brought with us had been al-
ready disposed of, and nothing but what was valu-
able remained ; our friend, however, though evident-
ly much amused, and willing enough to sell his cab-
bages, would give nothing without some equivalent.
In this unwonted dilemma, when silver was of no
avail, it occurred to me to try the efficacy of a more
CHINA. 45
showy metal, and borrowing the countryman*^ knife
from Iiim, I cut a button from my uniform, then sei-
zing a bundle of leeks in one hand, and displaying
the crown and anchor in the other, I appealed to
the company whether the bargain was not a fair one.
This was irresistible ; and I carried my point by
acclamation. In this way, by stripping one side of
my jacket of its row of finery, and debating the
value of each item, I became possessed of the whole
cargo. The winnowing party, including several
women, and a number of children, had left their
work, and assembled round us, listening to this
discussion, which I need not say was canied on
with much laughing and joking on both sides, al-
though neither party understood a syllable of the
other's language. I was a little at a loss what to
do with my purchase, for my sole object, in which
I completely succeeded, had been to produce good-
humour, and I had nobody with me to carry the
vegetables. At length, however, I explained to
the peasant that I wished them canied to tie boat,
and although I took no further charge of him, he de-
livered themfaithfully in the course of the afternoon.
In the evening of the same day, Mr Clifford, an
officer of the navy on half pay, who accompanied
me on tliis voyage, proposed that we should land on .
the side of tlie harbour opposite to the village, with
wliich we had yet held no intercourse, in order to
walk for some distance up the country, and thus see
the inhabitants in places where the news of our ar-
rival had hardly reached. Having landed according-
ly, we pursued a path leading from the shore, passed
a low ridge of hills, and descended into a secluded
valley, in the bottom of which, under a grove of trees,
there was built the neatest little hamlet we had yet
46 CHINA.
seen in Cltlna. Eight or ten of the villagers came
forward to weleoine ns, and placing chairs for us
under the trees, begged us to partake of their
liospitality. They had observed us breaking,' some
specimens from the cliffs near the top of the hill,
and naturally concluding that we set some value
upon what we examined so carefully, dispatched
several boys, who returned loaded witli many more
specimens than we had occasion for. In return for
their kindness, we allowed them to examine our
dress, which they did with many expressions of
astonishment. The objects, however, which excited
most wonder were our watches ; and we found
universally during this voyage, that when every
other thing failed to engage the attention of the na-
tives, the sight of a watch accomplished the busi-
ness ; or if not, it was hopeless to make further at-
tempts. They had a name for it, however, we dis-
covered ; and even at this remote corner of the
globe, there was always some one of the company
who pretended to know more or less of its use.
On this occasion all the inhabitants of the village
appeared to be assembled ; they grouped them-
selves on the grass round about us, the children
always in front ; for we observed wherever we
went in Cliina, the most studious anxiety on the
part of the parents to gratify the little people Tvith
the most advant^eous sight of the strangers.
During the inspection which was instituted into
my apparel, I had given to one man my hat, to an-
other my gloves, a third amused himself and the
company by opening and shutting my pen-knife,
and in the confusion my watch was passed from
hand to hand, till lost sight of altogether. At length
these good pec^le were satisfied ; and fencying
CHINA. 47
everything was restored, we took oxir feave as the
day was dosing. But we left the \illage by a dif-
ferent path from that by which we had come ; and
after wandering for some time amongst the liills,
till it became almost dark, returned to the shore.
Before stepping into the boat, however, I wished
to make a record of the time of tide, and then fii-st
discovered that my watch was gone. I had no re-
collection of the person into whose hands I had
given it ; and even if I had, was without any means
of discoveiing him. All the stories about the
thievish disposition of the Chinese now crowded
upon our recollection ; and the good opinion we
were gradually forming of their character, was
shaken to its foundation. The watch, however, was
much too valuable to be lost without an eifort, and
we resolved to return to the village, to give it a
chance.
All was now silent amongst the cottages, and we
wandered about for some time, till attracted by a
light at a window, we went up to it, and addressed
two people sitting at supper in the room. They were
much aiaimed at our sudden appearance, pushed us
nidely away, and closed the window. This was an
unpropitious beginning ; but we persevered till, on
reaching the court or square near the centre of the
village, we fortunately lighted upon a party of eight
or ten men, some l>Tng on the gi'ound, others seat-
ed on chau-8, smoking their pipes, and enjoying the
delicious coolness of the evening air, which had
succeeded to the burning heat of the day. I was
not much in a humour to notice fine gi-ouping or
picturesque effects, but happening to remember
tlie Chinese for watch, Pee-o-i, 1 repeatedly pro-
nounced it, exhibitmg at tlie same tim<^ my emj>ty
48 CHINA.
pockets. The word or the action easily made them
comprehend my loss. But as I was under the full
conviction all the while that I never should see my
watch again, I may probably have expressed some
impatience on tlie occasion. This, however, pro-
duced little eifect on the Chinese, who merely took
their pipes from their mouths, leaned on their el-
bows, and listened with great attention to all I had
to say. When I had finished my speech, which
consisted principally of signs, interspersed with
occasional mention of the word Pee-o-i, an old
gentleman of the party got up, and patting me good-
naturedly on the shoulder, gave me his ready-light-
ed pipe to console me, and with great gravity, in
the midst of whicli I fancied I could sometimes de-
tect an ironical smile when he looked towards his
companions, made me a long speech, which, althougli
I could not understand a single word of it, seemed
to set forth that it was quite useless to be angry
about the matter. The rest of the party laughed
heartily at the oddity of this dialogue, and seem-
ed determined to take no steps till the discussion
was over. As I saw very soon that there was no-
thing for it but good-humour — or rather, that no-
thing was to be gained by impatience, I sat down
amongst them, accepted the orator's pipe, and puff-
ed away as well as the most experienced smoker
of the party. I had no sooner been seated on
a chair which was brought for me, as they
would not suffer me to stretch myself on the
ground, than the spokesman of the party, who had
just lectured me, as I conjectured, upon the virtue
of patience, looldng over Ins shoulder and laughing,
spoke a few words to one of the young men seated
ou the grass near hini, who iumiediately rose and
CHINA. 49
left the party. In about five minutes the messenger
returned, bringing along with him another person,
who held my watch in his hand ; and I now re-
cognized the face of the man I had first given it to.
He explained, as I understood him, that as I had
left the village by another road, (pointmg first to
the one way, and then to the other,) he had quite
lost eight of me, but that next day he meant to have
brought the watch on board. Tliis I inferred
from his pointing to where the sim rose, and then
towards the ships. At all events, I was happy
enough to recover my lost property, and the first
impulse naturally was to give him some reward.
I had only a dollar, and two or three smaller coins
with me, which I put into the young man's hand ;
but this was no sooner observed, than two or
three of the others jumped on their feet, and
taking the money from him, thrust it back again
into my pockets. I made him sit down, however,
and it will easily be understood that the recovery
of the watch was more efficacious in restoring good-
humour than the old fellow's lecture had been ; and
80 my sententious friend himself seemed to think,
for he addressed me with the fonner affected se-
riousness of tone and manner, and then laughed
heartily as he pointed to the watch. It is wonder-
ful, indeed, how without language, people can gen-
erally make themselves mutually understood when
there is good will on both sides, and how difficult,
even with all the advantages of speech, the most
simple explanation becomes, when temper or in-
terest opposes an obstacle to the mutual apprehen-
sion of the subject.
I was naturally anxious, before returning on ])oaid,
to leave some mark of gratitude for the good «cr-
VOL. I. E
50 CHINA.
vice these obliging people liad rendered me. Money
it was obvious they would not take ; but in con-
sidering what I could give them wliich they would
value, I recollected their having admired one of my
epaulettes which had accidentally fallen from my
shoulder at our first visit, so I pulled it fi*om my
pocket, and entreated their acceptance of it. This,
however, they positively refused. But conceiving
theii- difficulty might arise from doubts as to the
division, I began to pull the epaulette to pieces, in-
tending to give each one a portion of the tassels.
Tliis excited au immediate outcry from the whole
party, a couple of whom rose up, and forcibly re-
placed the epaulette. This amicable discussion had
the effect of bringing us more intimately acquainted
with each other, than a mucli longer period of the
ordinaiy kind of intercourse could possibly have
(lone ; and being still desirous of leaving some me-
morial of om- visit, the idea occmTed to me of wri-
ting down what had passed [as a record, which in
the very improbable event of a future voyager
coming to this port, miglit be useful to them. The
idea once started, I easily explained to them by
signs that I wished for writing materials ; and af-
ter a short disciissi-on among themselves, they all
rose and invited me to walk with them to another
quarter of the village. The way was led by a very
formal, perpendicular elderly gentleman, who drew
a key from his pocket, and holding it up in a signi-
ficant manner, beckoned us to follow him. Tliis
personage, who from the moment allusion was
made to pen and ink, had assumed an air of vast
consequence, proved to be the schoolmaster of the
village, and under his pilotage we proceeded to the
school, where our preceptor liaving lighted a can-
CHIKA. 51
die, soon brought all tliat was want-e(K A ftat phttt:*
of stone hollowed out like a saucer, being first rub-
bed with Indian ink, a brush similar to what we
use in painting wzs put into my hands by the do-
minie, who was quite enchanted with his new pu-
pil. A long slip of paper being next laid before
me, I was desired by the master to proceed, while
he took his station by my side, and arranged his
friends round the table, so that every one could get
a sight of the strange hieroglyphics I was making.
I merely wrote in a few words, an account of the
adventure of the loss and recovery of the watch,
to which I added my opinion of the honesty and
kindness of the people, together with a request to
any future visitor to whom the paper might chance
to be intelligible, that he would do the worthy in-
habitants justice, and not be guided, in describing
the national character, by the hasty and sweeping
prejudice ivhich condemns a whole nation for the
vices of one sea-port.
The writing being finished, we rose and looked
about the school-room, which was large and airy.
In every village however small which we visited
in China, there was invariably a school where both
reading and writing were taught to boys ; but I do
not recollect that we evei' saw any girls ai school
on these occasions.
As the path which led to the beach from the
school-house was rather steep and rugged, the Chi-
nese, affecting to fear that we should tumble down,
insisted upon encumbering us with help, and taking
us by the hands, conducted us slowly and cautious-
ly along. Escorted in this ridiculous way by the
whole party, we reached the boat, where the na-
tives pressed our hands between theirs, and took
52 CHINA.
leave of us in a manner expressive of the heartiest
good will. Our fiiends then joined a considerable
number of the villagers assembled on the top of
the sea bank, and called out, as we shoved off,
with one voice, some words in Chinese, which, al-
though we did not understand them, certainly
sounded most kindly.
Next day, the man who had restored the watch
came on board the Lyra, bringing with him his two
brothers. Even now, when he was unobserved,
we could not prevail upon him to receive anything
as a reward for his honesty, although the inter-
preter explained to him again and again our wish-
es on the occasion. He either was, or seemed to
be, unconscious that he had done anything remark-
able, observing, as we imagined, that if he were,
as we said, an honest man, his reward would be
elsewhere.
On the 29th of August we landed, and walked
for many miles over the country without meeting
any interruption. On the contrary we were in-
vited by the inhabitants to enter many of the hou-
ses, where they gave us the never-failing tea, and
offered us pipes and fruit wherever we went. In
the course of this most interesting ramble, we were
attracted by the well-known hum to a school, which
the master, who came out to the door, begged us
to enter. Everything within was remarkably neat
and clean, and the room well ventilated ; but the
day was very hot, and one of the scholars, obser-
ving Mr Clifford fanning himself with his hat, left
his seat, and presented him with his fan ; at the same
time, turning round, he gave me his book, opened
I suppose at the place of the lesson. The whole
school were then ordered to read at once, during
CHINA. 53
ivliich Uic master appeared to have the faculty of
distinguishing any voice which was in error ; a
mode of teaching, it may he observed, universal
from all time over the East, hut only recently in-
troduced from that hemisphere into this country,
and I helieve with much eflfect.
The women were at first rather shy, and retreat-
ed within doors as soon as we approached. By and
by they gained confidence, upon seeing that we
meant harm to no one ; and before our walk was
half over, we were frequently accosted by pai-ties
of two and three curious damsels, whose wonder
was greatly excited by an investigation of om* ha-
biliments.
Most of these women, but not all of them, Iiad
the well-known small feet, the peculiar barbarism
of the country ; but prepared as we were by draw-
ings and desciiptions to expect this remarkable de-
formity, the actual sight of it caused a feeling of
disgust which I shall not attempt to describe. At
a subsequent period of the voyage, when at Can-
ton, I made many inquiries amongst the Chinese
who spoke English, respecting this preposterous
custom. I learned from one intelligent man, that
the age of four was the usual time for commen-
cing the horrid ceremony of binding up the wretch-
ed children's feet ; and he showed me the man-
ner in which it was done. The toes are forcibly
bent under the foot, in which position they are
confined by a silk band three inches wide, and two
or three yyjds long. My informant told me that
he had four daughters, all of whom suffered so
much on these occasions, that he could not bear
to hear their cries, and being unable to relieve or
to console them, still less to exempt them from this
e2
o4> CHINA.
vile mutilation, he was obliged to banish himsolt
from home for more than a month, when the season
for tormenting one of his children arrived. He bit-
terly deplored the total absence of any free will to
depart from the established customs of the Empire.
In the course of the day, I landed my instru-
ments, measured a base, and surveyed the harbour,
besides taking the sun's altitude at noon, without
the slightest opposition on the part of the natives ;
which I mention merely to show, that in places re-
mote from Canton, where it is the policy of the local
authorities to discourage all inquiry, there is not
naturally any jealousy or apprehension of strangers.
Some of these observations I made under the very
walls of a mud fort, tlie defences of which consist-
ed of two old matchlocks fixed as wall pieces, and
six warriors armed with bows and arrows, while
the commander, a jolly Tartar Mandarin, sat on the
rampart, with his gilt button shining above his cap,
and a long pipe in his mouth, grinning with de-
light and surprise at the sight of the quicksilver
in the artificial horizon. It is true, I conciliated
liis good will by presenting him with an old sabre,
in return for which, he dispatched one of the garri-
son on board my ship with two fowls and a duck,
two fans, a pipe, and a small parcel of tobacco.
In the evening, we sailed from the bay of Oei-
hai-oi, carrying with us a very favourable impres-
sion of the Chinese character. Our next object was
to visit the coast of Corea, in order to fill up the
interval during which the embassy was likely to be
engaged in China, with an examination of that un-
known country. We steered, accordingly, direct-
ly East, along the parallel of 38 degTees of north
latitude, without seeing any land till the morning of
the third day afterwards.
COREA.
CHAPTER II.
COREA — SIR JAMES HALLOS GROUT — HUTTOn's
ISLAND — SHALLOW BAY ON THE MAIN LAND
AMHERST ISLES.
When the day broke, on the 1st of September,
1816, we expected to have found ourselves close
to the shore, but no land could be seen from the
deck ; and it was not until the sun rose that the
look-out man at the mast-head could distinguish a
faint blue ridge, lying at a great distance to the
Eastward. The announcement of land being in
sight is at all times an enlivening sound ; but upon
this occasion, it carried with it peculiar interest.
The country we were now steering for was so com-
pletely tmknoAvn that it held no place on our charts,
except that vague sort of outline Tvdth which the
old map-makers delighted to fill up their paper,
and conceal their ignorance. This practice has done
great disservice to geography ; because the mere
embellishments of one fanciful and original artist
of this description become, in the hands of a co-
pyis-t, established landmarks ; and thus the error
is propagated and repeated till the eye grows as
familiar with the outline of the unknown parts of
the earth as with the best surveyed coasts. So
strongly, indeed, do we learn to associate an idea
of reality with what is constantly presented to
our view, that at first when we come to examine
the actual state of the fact upon the spot, we are
perhaps more surprised to find it different from
56 OOREA.
wliat is lirid down hi these ima^ary maps, than
we should have been to discover them accurate,
thougli this would have been little short of a mi-
racle, and the other is the occuiTence to bo look-
ed for. In the case before us, we had soon rea-
son to believe ourselves in a region the exclusive
property of those ingenious map-drawers alluded
to, who sui-vey the world in their closet ; for on
approaching the land, and making observations to
ascertain our tme place, we discovered that accord-
ing to one authority, we were sailing far up in the
country, over wide forests and great cities ; and ac-
cording to another, the most honest author amongst
them, our course lay directly tlirough the body of a
goodly elephant, placed in the centre of a district
of country in token of the maker's candid confes-
sion of ignorance. From this time, for many weeks
forward, we shut up our Atlases, Neptunes, and
other nautical authorities, and tnasted solely to our
own resources ; or according to the ])rofessional
phrase, to lead, latitude, and look-out ; though, in
tnith, it was only the first and last that we had to
depend upon, it being useless to know the latitude
of places as yet laid down on no chart.
By nine o'clock in the morning, we were not far
fi'om a group of tlu-ee high islands, cultivated in the
lower ranges next the sea, and wooded to the very
summits. The fields were divided, as in China, by
stone walls very rudely built ; but we missed the
extreme nicety in dressing asd laying out the ground
so conspicuous in that agricultural country. As all
places were alike to us, and equally unknown, we
steered for the nearest island, the most southern of
the group, and came to an anchor about noon in a
fine bay, sheltered fix>m all winds except tlie South.
COREA. 57
The meridian observation placed these islands in
37** 50' North latitude, and our chronometers made
tJiem in 124** 30' East longitude.
Our anchor had scarcely reached the ground,
when a small boat was discovered paddling oif to
us full of people, and on looking more attentively,
we saw a village in a little nook at the north-west-
em side of the bay. The natives came boldly on till
within about fifty yards of us, when they lay upon
their oars to take a more leisurely survey before
they ventured nearer. The result appeared not to
be such as to encourage farther proceedings, for
they would not come alongside, although we made
all the signs we could think of to persuade them.
Our only resource, therefore, was to man our owti
boats and pay the first visit ourselves. As we row-
ed towards the shore, the boat turned back like-
tvise, and followed us as fast as possible to the vil-
lage. The inhabitants, who received us with looks
of distrust and alarm, were evidently uneasy at our
landing, for they were crowded timorously together
like so many sheep. Having tried every art to re-
assure them, but in vain, we determined to leave our
unsociable acquaintances, and without waiting for
an invitation, to take a look at the village. This mea-
s\ire elicited something like emotion in the sidky
natives, several of whom stepped forward, and pla-
cing themselves between us and the houses, made
very unequivocal signs for us to return to our boats
forthwith. We persevered, however, and conti-
nued to advance, till a couple of stout fellows
fairly took us by the shoulders, and turning us
round, pushed us very rudely in the dnection we
came from. There is no saymg exactly how far
our forbearance might have endured, had the na-
58 CORE A.
lives proccedk3(l to carry tlie joke much fiartfier ;
but as our object was by all means to conciliate
their good will, we took their incivility pleasantly,
affecting not to understand their wishes to get rid
of us altogether, but pretending to suppose they
merely desired us to avoid the village. We there-
fore altered our course, and began to climb the
hill which rose on the Nortli-Eastern side of the
Bay.
There was nothing in the appearance of these
islanders which we recognised as Chinese, in dress,
language, or appearance, and in their manners there
was none of that courtesy which we met with
everywhere in China. It was at once quite evi-
dent indeed that they were a much ruder people.
Their colour was a dark copper, and the expres-
sion of their countenances, though certainly rather
forbidding, was not as some of our party described
it savage : I think this epithet much too strong, yet
there was undoubtedly something wild about them,
though not amounting to ferocity. They were
dressed mostly in a loose white frock, bai'ely reach-
ing to the knees, made of an extremely coarse ma-
terial, apparently grass-work ; below which the
legs were covered with wide trowsers of the same
stuff; on their feet were tied sandals, made of
rice-straw, plaited into the thickness of half an
inch, and bound to the feet by thongs, the only
neat article in the whole dress. Their hair, which
was black and glossy, was twisted into a curious
conical bunch, or spiral knot, on the top of the head,
and there was not the least appearance of the Tar-
tar tuft. Two or tliree of their number, who seem-
ed principal persons, wore vast hats, the brims of
which exteiKled a foot «ad a half in all directions,
CORE A, 59
SO as compfetely to shade th^ body of the wearei-.
The top or croAvn, on the other hand, was dispro-
portionahly email, being made no larger than just
to fit the top-knot of haii*, which stood eight or
nine inches above the head. This strange cover-
ing, which looked more like an umbrella placed
over them than a hat, appeared to be made of
horse-hair, varnished over ; its textm-e was open,
and the whole quite light, being tied under the chin
by a band of oval red and yellow beads.
Though it was at first a little vexatious to dis-
cover that our Chinese interpreter did not under-
stand a word these people said, it certainly added
to that adventurous sort of interest which belongs
to travelling in regions where the inhabitants dif-
fer in every respect from those we have seen be-
fore. It was like being transported to the moon,
or to some other planet, where nothing existed in
common with our previous knowledge. Every-
thing we saw was strange to our eyes, and we felt
certain that each fresh step we took in the voyage
was to prove equally fertile in unknown scenes
and novel incidents ; it was impossible, in short, to
go wrong ; a new world was all before us where
to choose, and if we failed to derive instruction and
pleasure fi'om what we saw, the fault was our own ;
the materials for both lay thickly around us.
Our next object, seeing that we could open no
useful communication with the natives, was to look
about in order to ascertain if the main land, call-
ed in the Jesuit's map Corea, could anywhere be
distinguished. With this intention we commenced
climbing the hill, which labour, by no means trifling,
was lightened by the discovery of a small winding
path, not unlike a sbeep-track, though we saw no
m) COREA.
animals of this description. From tlie top of the
peak which rises in the centre of the island, there
could just be discovered what was supposed to be
the continent, at a great distance off, between which
and the spot upon which we stood lay a countless
number of islands of all sizes and forms ; some
clad with foliage, and others quite bare and rocky.
The temperature of the air, which below had been
intolerably hot, was here comparatively cool and
refreshing ; and as we found a rich matting of grass
spread on the summit, with here and there a sweet-
scented shrub, we were tempted to prolong our
stay ; and having taken the precaution to bring our
dinner with us, remained for upwards of an hour,
enjoying the splendid prospect opened for the first
time to European eyes.
The world, of late years, lias been so industri-
ously beat up by voyagers and travellers, that it
becomes no easy matter to light upon any spot re-
specting which nothing whatsoever shall have been
told before ; and I find it difficult to describe the
sensation of pleasure excited by the consciousness
of being the first to witness so stupendous a scene
as this multitude of unexplored islands presented.
I could observe, however, that this circumstance
affected the individuals of our party very different-
ly. Some who were elevated by it to a high de-
gree of excitement, were not satisfied with anything
short of the most rapturous expression. Others
seemed careless of the thing itself, but were proud
of it as a rare exploit in travelling, and took occa-
sion to crow, as they expressed it, over their absent
friends on the embassy, who, poor people, merely
saw the interior of China, a country traversed re-
peatedly by Europeans, while it was their more fa-
CO RE A. 61
voured lot, they said, to be classed amongst origi-
nal discoverers. There were some, too, who felt
nothing at all about the matter, but whose awk-
ward attempts to imitate the enthusiasm of the
others were sufficiently ludicrous.
We varied the road on returning, by striking out
of the path by which we had chmbed up, and paid
somewhat dearly for our enterprise, by scratches
and bruises amongst a brushwood of prickly pears
and brambles, growing on a surface of steep rocks,
broken across by frequent ravines on the northern
side of the island. In process of time, by hard scram-
bling, we came once more in sight of the village, ly-
ing immediately at the base of a cliff, over the brink
of which we could peep down and see what was
going on, without being ourselves perceived. The
women, none of whom had been seen previously,
^ere now discovered before the doors of the cot-
tages engaged in husking rice, by beating it in
great wooden mortars. Most of tham supported
children on their backs, whose little heads wag-
ged to and fro by the motion of the pounding
operation ; but habit had probably reconciled these
little wretches to this rude species of cradle, for
they appeared fast asleep. Whilst we were thus
occupied in stealing a view of the ladies, all
of them, as if by one consent, threw do^ii their
pounding implements and hurried off to their huts
like rabbits in a warren. For a minute or two
we were at a loss to conjecture the cause of this
sudden movement ; till one of the frigate's boats
was observed to row round the point forming the
western side of the Bay. No more was seen of
the women ; for when we clambered down tlie
rocks and reached the village, the men and the
VOL. I. F
02 COREA.
children abne were there to receive us. Biiougii,
however, was discovered of these timorous damsels
to satisfy us that their feet were not mutilated on
this island, as in China. The natives were now,
in a slight degree, more friendly, or rather less un-
friendly, than they had been at our first landing ;
they permitted us to walk through the village
unmolested, but would not suffer us to enter a
single house. The walls of these wretched abodes
were ill constructed of canes plastered over with
mud, and were not built in straight lines, but in
curves, and all at different angles. They were
thatched with reeds held down by straw ropes, and
quite destitute of neatness, order, or cleanliness,
the spaces between the huts being choked up with
piles of dirt and puddles of dirty water. The val-
ley, at the end of which this comfortless village was
situated, possessed considerable beauty, though not
thickly wooded : it was cultivated in the lower
parts with millet and buck-wheat ; tobacco also
was growing in great abundance.
In our hasty passage amongst the houses, for
there was little attempt at a street, we saw several
bullocks, and a great supply of poultry, but no in-
ducement could prevail on the natives to sell or ex-
change one of them. They held in no estimation
our dollars and gold money ; and nothing eke that
we ofiered them appeared to possess value in their
eyes except wine-glasses ; but even of this solitary
taste we could scarcely take advantage. One of the
principal persons, or a man whom we assumed to be
such from the dimensions of his hat, looked so wist-
fully at a claret-glass during a display which was
made of the contents of our pic-nic basket to enter-
tain the natives, that we prevailed upon him to ac-
GORE A. 63
cept it. We were now in hopes, wlien the ice bad
been broken, that we should commence a traffic.
But in a few minutes the same native came back, and
without any ceremony thrust the glass ao;ain into
the basket, and walked off, accompanied by all the
party except one man, who the moment the angle
of a rock concealed him from the view of liis com-
panions, eagerly pointed to a tumbler in use at
the moment to lift water from a spring, and ha-
ving carefully hid it in his bosom, returned to the
village by another road, evidently apprehensive of
being detected by his countrymen.
It is scarcely fair, perhaps, to judge of peopfe
upon so short an acquaintance, at a moment, too,
when with some reason they might be under the
influence of alarm at so unusual a visit. The same,
however, might be said of other people equally
ignorant of foreigners ; but I certainly never en-
countered, during any voyage, people more re-
solutely unsociable than these islanders. A dis-
dainful sort of sulky indifference, rather than any
direct ill-will, was the most obvious trait in their
deportment. They were very nide to us, it is
true, and lost no opportunity of suggesting the
fitness of our immediate departure. It seemed al-
ways irksome to them to take any pains to com-
prehend our signs, and often, when our meaning
was made clear to them, they treated it with the
most provoking contempt. On one occasion, I
tried for a considerable time to induce an elderly
man of the party to let me have a singular kind of
rake which he carried in his hand ; but he would
accept nothing in exchange ; and at last finding
that I persisted, he laughed heartily for a moment,
and then as if repentii^ of Ixnng betrayed into good-
04 COREA.
humour, placed It In my hands, and gave me a
violent push from him, accompanying this insult-
ing action by a loud angiy speech, doubtless not
more civil, followed by many abundantly significant
gestures, implying that the sooner I took to my
boat, and left him and his inhospitable island, the
better he would be pleased. In this un4vindly senti-
ment all his companions heartily joined, so that
every one was exerting his ingenuity in attempts to
get rid of us. One man, in his anxiety to explain
that we could not do a more acceptable thing than
proceed to sea, caught hold of a scrap of paper which
fell from one of our sketch-books, and lifting up a
piece of drift-wood from the beach, placed the paper
across it like a sail, then blew upon it to make us
observe that the wind was in a right direction. The
little boys and girls, who indeed were our only
friends, crowded round, apparently sensible of our
attentions ; for they were soon quite at their ease
with us. The same cordiality on the part of the
children prevailed everywhere we went to, however
uncourteous the reception of the parents might be.
In the charts which were constructed of our dis-
coveries in this quarter. Captain Maxwell named
these islands Sir James Hall's Group, in compli-
ment to my father as President of the Royal So-
ciety of Edinburgh ; the idea being suggested to
him by observing elsewhere a cluster of islands
named after Sir Joseph Banks.
At eight o'clock in the evening, the ships
weighed anchor, and stood to the South-eastward.
We were utterly uncertain what was to be met with
next ; but every one was in high spirits, at the
prospect of encountering new scenes and new
people. After sailing for a considerable distance
COREA. 65
in rtie dark, h became expedient to anchor, as we
knew not whether we were far from land, or close
to it. When a cast of the lead was taken, it was
discovered that we were in eighty fathoms water ;
notwithstanding which Captain Maxwell deter-
mined to remain where he was. It is not very
common to anchor in such great depths, from
twenty to thirty fathoms being generally consider-
efl deep water ; but, during this voyage, we prac-
tised it constantly, with the greatest effect ; and
I mention the circumstance, as its utility and con-
venience may not suggest themselves, or possibly
may be as little known to some other professional
men, ub they certainly were previously to me. In un-
known seas, especially in coral latitudes, notliingcan
be more dangerous, or more harassing to an officer,
than navigating at night. The next moment may
place the ship on a reef, or what is very common,
the ship may be drifted, by the current, past the
object in view, and the labours of the precious
day-light be all lost during the darkness. Against
such evils, the practice of anchoring, if the water
does not much exceed a hundred fathoms in depth,
is a complete security. A ship rides more easily,
even in exposed situations, under such circum-
stances, from the long scope, and consequent
greater elasticity of the cable, which is also less
liable to be cut than in shallow water. The con-
fidence and the security thus given, afford an ample
compensation for the trouble of getting the an-
chor up again from its deep bed in the ocean.
While treating of technical details, I may per-
haps be allowed to mention another practical de-
vice^ which, though not new, is certainly very
little used, but was found highly advantaereous
r2
66 COREA.
on this occasion. It is common, when Bailing along
coasts, or when it is necessary to anchor frequent-
ly, to lower the yards, square them, and furl the
sails, as often as the anchor is let go. Hahit has
made this almost an essential point in seamanship.
The practice with us was never to lower or square
the yards on any occasion, unless forced to do so
by the violence of the wind ; but merely to clew
the sails up, and if required to furl them aloft. The
advantages of this were, that without a moment's
delay, with a few hands, and in the darkest night,
sail could be re-made on the ship. In the usual
routine of a man-of-war's duties, this practice
would be considered exceedingly slovenly ; but
on the present service it was of great consequence,
not only in rendering the ships more efficient, but
by essentially saving the wear and tear of the ropes
and sails, an object of vital importance, when so
completely removed, as we were, beyond the reach
of dock-yards, and other places of re-equipment.
In sailing along these unknown seas, and more
particularly when threading our course amongst
rocky islands, or when coasting past shores of whose
nature we were entirely ignorant, my little brig,
which drew only twelve feet water, was sent about
half a league a-head, to sound the way, and to look
out for dangers. In general it was found suffi-
cient in clear weather, to keep the sounding-lines
perpetually going, and to station a midshipman
aloft, with a glass at his eye, to assist the ordinary
look-out-men placed at the mast-heads and fore-
yard arm. But when the weather became hazy, or
it was thought necessary to carry the ships into
situations peculiarly suspicious, a boat was sent
forwards to pioneer the course, even for the
COREA. 67
Lyra. In this way we were enabled to visit in
safety many places that must have been inaccessi-
ble, or extremely dangerous to a^ship like the Al-
ceste, whatever degree of vigilance might have
been used. This service was at times a very fati-
guing and anxious one ; but on the other hand the
interest excited by it was imceasing, and for ever
varying. At first our ignorance of the peculiar
kind of navigation, and the apparent dangers
which beset it, rendered the anxiety insupport-
ably great, and the degree of watchfulness indis-
pensably necessary for the safety of the ship, al-
most too much for the bodily frame. But after a
little practice, most of this apprehension vanished,
notwithstanding the causes of alarm ha\ing greatly
increased. The habit of taking much rest in a short
time was also soon acquired ; so that the fatigue
and anxiety, instead of augmenting with the occa-
sion, often became less as the difficulty and the
sources of real apprehension became greater. In
point of fact the risk of shipwreck, to which we
were constantly exposed, though at the beginning
of the voyage it affected every one on board pretty
much alike, in a few days became so familial' that
every trace of reflection about it was removed from
the thoughts of all but one person on board. The
load of his cares, indeed, are in general rather in-
creased than lightened by the universal indifference
of those around him, who, though of course quite
as much concerned in the result, are unquickened
in their vigilance by high responsibility, and whose
duties, therefore, naturally become mere matters of
routine, very fai- from commensurate with that
anxiety, which can be felt by the Captain alone.
The tendency of strict discipline, such as pre-
68 COUEA.
vails on board sht]is of war, where aJmost every
act of a man's life is regulated by the orders of
his superior, is to weaken the faculty of independent
thought ; and on all ordinaiy occasions this answers
extremely well. But when the ship is placed in
circumstances where success depends on the indi-
vidual reflection of those who have been previous-
ly taught not to think for themselves, but to act
solely at the suggestion of other minds, this mecha-
nical principle is found to be a serious defect in
the system. I have seen occasions, when a ship was
sailing amongst ice-bergs in a dark night and
stormy weather, or amongst rocks and sand-banks,
when her safety depended entirely on individual
vigilance — yet not a soul on board could be brought
to feel the least anxiety, and each man and officer,
as his turn of duty ceased, rolled into bed, and
Avas asleep the next moment, leaving the waking
captain to manage the ship as he best could, every
one else being quite ready to take his chance ; that
is to say, never thinking about the matter.
On the morning of the 3d of September, the
ships again weighed, and stood under all sail to-
wards the islands, with wliich the sea to the East-
ward and Southward was thickly studded as far as
the- eye could reach. By two o'clock of this day,
we had approached the outermost group, and the
passages amongst them appearing to be free from
danger, we sailed through, and anchored in a little
bight or cove on the Eastern side of the largest.
As these islands lay so close to one another, we
were obliged to make a zigzag course, in order to
pass amongst them, and this winding about brought
us in sight of a singular-looldng chff, which we
determined to visit after anchoring. Accordingly,
COREA. G9
at half past three, as soon as dinner was over, we
set out to explore the island ; and tlie geological
appearances which had engaged our attention at
some distance, proved in the highest degiee cu-
rious wJien more closely examined.
The North-eastern end of this singular island
is composed of close-grained, whitish granite, and
the middle part of micacious schistus, disposed in
strata nearly horizontal, but dipping a little to the
S.W. This stratified mass is cut across by a gi^a-
nite vein or wall, forty feet wide ; from which in-
numerable lateral veins of all sizes, fi-om three feet
in width, to the tenth of an inch, are seen to
penetrate the schistus. The strata hereabouts are
also so much broken and distorted as to leave
no doubt of the action of some violent force. At
no great distance from this curious scene, a whin-
stone dike cuts across the same strata of schistus,
in a plane nearly at right angles to that of the
great vein of granite. The strata at this junction
are considerably bent, but not to the same extent
as in the vicinity of the granite. On proceeding
farther to the South, about ten or twelve yards
fiom the spot last described, stands a high rugged
cliff of breccia, or pudding-stone, composed of
water-worn fragments of various rocks, evidently
the shingle and gi'avel which at some remote pe-
riod must have formed the bottom of the ocean,
though now raised several himdred feet above high
water mark.
The appearances above described are not given
as new ; on the contrary, they are familiar to every
geologist ; and it is on this very account that they
are mentioned. Humboldt somewhere remarks
the wonderful uniformity which obtains in the
70 CORBA.
rocks forming the crust of the globe, and contra'
this regularity witli the diversity prevailing in evei \
other branch of nr?tural history. The truth of tliis
remark was often forcibly impressed upon our no-
tice during the present voyage ; for wherever wo
went, the vegetable, the animal, and the moral
kingdom, if I may use such an expression, wcyq
discovered to be infinitely vaiied : even the as-
pect of the skies was changed, and new constel-
lations and new climates co-operated to make us
sensible that we were far from home. But on
turning our eyes to the rocks upon which we
were standing, we instantly discovered the most
exact resemblance to what we had seen elsewhere.
Captain Maxwell was so highly amused with
tlie interest taken by the geologists of our party
in these scenes, and with the earnest manner in
which the advocates of the rival theories debated
the question, each armed with a bag full of ap-
propriate specimens, that he determined to chris-
ten the island after the celebrated Dr Hutton,
whose theory he seemed to think the best adapted
to explain the phenomena before us; an exercise of
authority, by the way, which the Weraerian com-
batants took much amiss.
Whilst this scientific controversy was raging
below, a party of the natives had assembled on the
edge of one of the cliffs in dispute, and were ta-
king a share in the discussion, quite as intelligible,
it was observed by a wag of our party, as the
more learned argumentation on the beach. Be this
as people think, the natives appeared greatly in-
censed at our breaking up their rocks at such a
rate ; and indicated by indignant shouts, and the
most significant, though ill-mannered geeticula-
COREA. 71
tions, that we were ftir from welcome. As the
angle of the cliff on which these rude islanders
were perched, was not less than two hundred per-
pendiculai- feet, directly over our heads, we thought
ourselves fortunate that they confined themselves
to signs and clamour, instead of using the more
potent argument of a shower of stones.
We considered it prudent, however, not to tempt
them too far ; and therefore rowed to a little bay
on the western side of the island, where we dis-
covered a good landing-place, on a smooth beach
composed of spangles of mica, glistening from end
to end, ill the setting sun.
The natives had crossed the promontory, and
were ready to receive us, as we leaped upon the
wet sand, for it was low water, and our boat had
grounded on the shelving beach. We walked
straight up to the inhabitants, took our hats off, and
made them a low bow ; upon which, the foremost
of tlieir number addressed us in a long speech, in
a tone of voice that was heard on board the ships
half a mile off. We rephed in a more moderate
key, in English, that we intended no mortal any
harm, and merely begged leave to walk over the
island. As this was about as much lost upon them
as then* own harangue had been upon us, a more
intelligible language was tried, by our walking di-
rectly along the path towards the brow of the high-
est hill, a rule, it may be mentioned, which it is
useful to follow in strange places, that as soon as
possible a general view of the country may be ob-
tained ; after wliich if there be leisure the de-
tails may be examined. The natives put a nega-
tive on this resolution, as far as they could, without
using absolute violence. Sometimes they placed
73 COREA.
themselves directly across our path ; and some-
times bawled in our ears some very angry words,
at the full stretch of their voices, apparently im-
pressed with the belief that mere loudness would
make their words more intelligible. It is more
than probable tlmt these people had never before
met with any one who did not understand them ;
and it may be reasonably supposed they ascribed
our inattention to deafness. To a person who is
unconscious of the existence of any language but
his own, the circumstance of meeting people who
do not comprehend him, and whom he does not
himself understand, must be a very perplexing
phenomenon. To us, who are familiar with the
idea of many languages, this dilemma is scarcely
intelligible ; but many incidents led us to believe,
that the people whom we met with on this coast
were utterly ignorant, not only of other languages,
but of the fact that any such existed at all.
One very busy personage now took his station
before us, and baring his neck, drew his fan from
end to end along his throat; and then, with no great
gentleness, went through a similar ceremony with
the necks of his visitors. Hereupon a great spe-
culation was set afloat amongst us, as to the im-
port of this significant gesture. One thing was
plain, it had reference to cutting off heads ; but
our party was equally divided in opinion as to
whose heads were to suffer. Some thought the
natives were in alarm for themselves, while others
considered this ugly sign as a threat to us. We
went on, however, till we reached the summit
of the island. From this spot, a small village was
discovered, at the distance of half a mile, built on
COREA. T3
the side of a hill, at the base of which lay a small
creek, just large enough to afford shelter for two
or three fishing-boats. The sea-breeze, which had
never been strong during the day, now gradually
expired as the sun went down, and was succeeded
by a sultry calm. It would have been delightful to
have sat for half an horn* in one of the houses,
or to ha^e bathed in the little stream which we
f5aw rimning close by the village. But upon the
first motion we made in that direction, the natives
raised such a shout, and looked so much distressed,
that we gave up the contest, and turned towards
our boats. All was now changed ; instead of ob-
structing om- way, and roaring in oui* ears, they
were all smiles and assistance : a man on eacli
side seized our hands, and warning us of every ob-
stacle, escorted us along the path, and over the
slippery stones on the sea bank_, with a degree of
assiduity extremely ludicrous. Sometimes this
friendly aid took the shape of a push, and some-
times of a pull, both sufficiently expressive of an-
xiety to see us depart. On reaching the boats, four
or five athletic handsome-looking fellows strip-
ped off their clothes, and leaping into the water,
caught hold of the gunwale of the boat, ready to
launch us fi'om their inhospitable shore with as
much momentum as possible.
There was but little difference between the dress
of the people of Hutton's Island and those we vi-
sited on the fii'st of September. The greater num-
ber dressed their hair in the conical top-knot be-
fore described ; but in some instances it was left
to fly loose, in a wild-looking style ; in others con-
fined by a nan'ow gauze fillet, on the side of which
was wrought a small Btar-like ornament ; but not
VOL. I. G 3
74 COREA.
one of their beards and whiskers had ever known
a razor. Every person we saw smoked from a long
hollow reed or cane, having a small hole bored
at one side, near the extremity, like the stop of a
flute, capable of holding a minute portion of tobac-
co ; a large gaudy-coloured paper fan canied in the
hand completed the equipment. The children were
amazingly diverted with us, and showed none of
the surliness of the grown-up people, but examined
our clothes with great attention ; occasionally ma-
nifesting their surprise by the most boisterous
shouts. This admiration became quite general when
a watch was displayed. By their manner of in-
specting it, we conjectured that its use was utterly
unknown ; one of the seniors, however, showed
that he comprehended the use of the seals, by
pressing one of them for some time on his copper-
coloured hand, and exhibiting the impression to
his companions. While the watch was imder re-
view, and just as their shouting had subsided in-
to unaffected and silent admiration, one of our
party indiscreetly fired his fowling-piece at a bird
in the air. In all probability, it was the first dis-
charge of fire-arms they had ever heard ; for they
flew back several paces, like a shoal of fish when a
stone is cast amongst them. This unlucky incident
removed the only chance we had of gaining their
confidence ; for even the watch had now lost its
attraction ; and we re-embarked, much entertain-
ed with the whole scene, but somewhat provoked
with ourselves, for the small impression our civi-
lized manners had made upon these primitive
islanders.
During all the ensuing night it was a dead calm,
and the sea as smooth as a sheet of glass ; a gentle
COREA. 75
current glided silently past us to the Southward,
but without causing the least ripple on the surface.
At nine o'clock we got under weigh, to bo ready
for the sea-breeze, which soon came to refresh' us,
well nigh burned up by the rays of the sun blazing
both from above, and by reflection from the bright
mirror round about. On the breeze catching us,
we stood boldly on, right in the midst of the islands,
and in less than an hour the view of the main ocean
was so completely shut out, that we lost all trace
of the track by which the ships had entered this
fairy archipelago. Our navigators and surveyors
were busily employed in taking an account of the
most remarkable of these islands. But as this
was soon found to be a hopeless task, attempts were
made to jot down on the charts at least each dif-
ferent cluster or distinct group : at last even this was
abandoned in perfect despair ; and it was reluctant-
ly confessed, that many months perhaps years of
labour would be required to form a correct map of
this magnificent scene. It was one, however, so
well calculated to rouse the attention of the most
imthinking person amongst us, that even the sea-
men, whose habits dispose them very Httle to ob-
serve what is passing around them, were quite
astonished.
About an hour after taking the meridian obser-
vation, it was discovered that we were drawing in
with the main land ; and in a short time villages,
single houses, and cultivated fields, were distin-
guished along the shore. A broad belt of enclosed
and cultivated country extended to a considerable
distance from the sea, along the sides of a range of
mountains lying parallel to the coast. No haibour
nor break in tlie land was visible till about tliree
7G COREA.
o'clock, when a j>iojectlng point came in siglit, on
rounding wliicb a noble bay was discovered, hi-
denling the land for four or five miles. On sailing
fiutlierin, however, it proved a mere shallow basin,
and we therefore let go our anchors far out in five
fathoms water. As the ships passed the promon-
tory, a crowd of the natives came down to the wa-
ter's edge, and hailed us with loud and angry shouts,
the ungracious tone of w^hich was becoming by this
time but too familiar to our ears.
As soon as the ships were secured, Captain
IMaxwell, jMr Clifford, and I proceeded in one of
the Alceste's boats towards a considerable village,
or rather town, in the North-western angle of the
bay. On drawing near it was discovered that the
whole population were in a commotion, much re-
sembling the sort of bustle into which a colony of
ants are thrown by the thrust of a spade. This sen-
sation extended to a fleet of boats riding at anchor
off the town, the crews of which were busily em-
ployed weighing anchor, and getting their oars to
pass. Before we could reach the landing-place,
eight or ten of the largest vessels were seen steer-
ing towards us, escorted by more than a hundred
canoes and small boats bustling and paddling along
in tunmltuous procession. Every boat, even the
smallest that had a mast at all, w^as decked out with
long streamers, and crowded almost to sinking with
people. On aniving within a couple of boats'
lengths of the headmost vessel, our ears were sa-
luted with sounds not unlike those of the bagpipe,
which irssued from three pipes, or trumpets, played
by men raised high in the boAV of the boat. In the
middle part of the deck, between the masts, we dis-
covered a huge blue umbrella, held by two men over
COREA. 77
the head of a very important-looking personage,
seated cross-legged on a mat, surrounded by at-
tendants in richly-coloured dresses. The chief him-
self, for such he was dubbed the moment we be-
held him, is worthy of a particular description.
His principal garment consisted of a showy robe,
or mantle, of blue satin, in whose ample folds he was
well nigh lost ; in front hung down his venerable
white beard, as far as a rich embroidered girdle, con-
£ning the robe. On his head was placed a hat of
a size in proportion with that of the other parts of
his dress ; the rim measured not less than three feet,
over which rose a very small peaked crown. In
his right hand he wielded, with an air of mighty
importance, a slender black rod tipped with silver,
from which hung at one end a small slip of black
crape, and a narrow leather thong was tied to the
other end — symbolical, it was thought, of the sum-
mary com-se of justice in Corea. In his left hand
he grasped between the thumb and little finger his
pipe, trimmed from time to time by an attendant,
stationed for that purpose close to his elbow, who
took the tobacco from a silver box carried by a
little boy.
As there could be no doubt that this was the
principal person, we rowed straight alongside, and
stepped on board his boat to pay our respects. He
answered our salutations with grave civility, but
neither rose nor asked us to sit down. The mu-
sic now stopped squealdng, and the universal hub-
bub that had the instant before prevailed amongst
the boats ceased likewise ; the rowers and the scul-
lers were all at a stand, and our conference com-
menced, somewhat inauspiciously, by the old chief
pointing to oui- boats with his rod of office, thereby
g2
78 COIIEA.
very dearly c:iving us to understand that we must
not 8tay longer upon his quarter-deck. To humour
liim in this fancy, we immediately took our seats
again in our own boats ; but here our old dilemma
arose for want of language. We did what we could,
however, in the way of signs, first to show our wish
to visit the country ; and finding our signals either
unintelligible or not agreeable, wo pointed to the
Alceste and invited him to visit us. This he com-
prehended much better. In the meantime, the
other Corean boats, some of them ten times as large
as ours, had gradually moved round from the rear,
and Avere nearly encircling us. We had arms ready,
but it would have been easy for these boats, had
they been so disposed, to have closed upon us. As
soon, therefore, as we suspected treachery, we pull-
ed oflf and prepared for an attack. The old gen-
tleman perceived this movement, and being inno-
cent of any hostile design, looked about him to
discover the cause of our appreliension. We ex-
plained to him that we preferred an open space to
such a crowd of vessels, upon wliich he gave or-
ders, whicli were promptly obeyed by the intruding
boatmen, who hiuried back to their stations in an
instant.
The whole procession, like a royal regatta, now
]>roceeded slowly towards the L)Ta, to the sound
of the pipes, which began to play the instant the
boats went on. Captain Maxwell and I rowed to
one side of the bri^r, while the chief's boat was
placed on the other in a veiy seamanlike style. To
get on board was not so easy a matter, and it was
all our discipline could accomplish to keep the
sailors from laughing at the manner in which the
' chief got up the gangway, encimibered as he
CO HE A. 7^"
was with his immense robes. As the evening was
fine, we thought it best to entertain our guest on the
quarter-deck, instead of inviting him to my little ca-
bin, hardly large enough, as some one observed, to
hold the old gentleman's hat. Chaii's were accord-
ingly brought up, but the chief seemed to despise
these European inventions, and would accept of no
accommodation but his own mat. Even to this he
at fii-st objected, leaving us completely perplexed
to discover his wishes. It has occmTed to us since,
that the publicity of the conference m.ay have dis-
pleased him, and we regi-etted not having canied
him below, however inconvenient the accommoda-
tion. At length he sat down, and immediately the
whole of his owti crew, and the men fi'om about
twenty other boats, leaped on board in all direc-
tions, to assist at the ceremony. Some of them
'climbed into the rigging, others established them-
selves on the poop, and one unbroken line of cop-
per-colom^ed wondering faces was ranged along the
hammocks from stem to stern. When every one
was seated, silence and sometliing like order was
established, and the chief, drawing his pipe fi-om his
mouth, and flourishing his wand, commenced an ora-
tion wliich lasted fully five minutes. When he had
concluded, Captain Maxwell, who had listened with
admirable gravity and a look of respectful attention,
made a reply in English, not quite so long, but quite
as much to the purpose. The chief opened his eyes,
stared, listened, and looked round to his attend-
ants, as if to inquire the meaning of all this ; but ob-
taining no satisfaction from the appeal, as they all
shook their heads, he called to a person who seem-
ed to be his secretai'y, and touching him with his
rod, made him sit down before him. Tlie secretaiy
80 COREA.
took his place with all due formality, and having
rubbed his cake of Indian inlt upon a neat blue
Btone which he carried with him, drew forth his
camel-hair bnish, and arranging a long scroll of
paper on his knees, began at the chiefs dictation
to write a dispatch, the by-standers assisting from
time to time in the composition of this document,
which they no doubt thought was to set all matters
right. WTien completed the chief looked it over,
and then handed it to us. We looked at it too, but
were obliged to shrug our shoulders, and signify our
ignorance with the best grace we could. The chief
was exceedingly provoked, and showed by his ges-
tures and the angry tones of his voice how stupid
he thought us.
His disappointment and surprise are not so un-
reasonable as they at first sight may appear. In
China, Japan, Corea, and at most of the islands of
those seas, the spoken languages differ so complete-
ly in sound, that when the several inhabitants of
the countries meet, and try to converse, tliey are
mutually unintelligible as long as they confine them-
selves to oral communication ; but the instant they
have recourse to tlie written character, they under-
stand each other perfectly. This written language,
which is altogether independent of sound, is the
same in each of the countries alluded to, while the
spoken language on the contrary is diflferent in all
of them. In these respects the Arabic numbers 1,
2, 3, exactly resemble the written Chinese charac-
ters. There is notliing in these symbols by which
their pronimciation can be determined, and in fact
every nation of Europe uses diiFerent words to
express them ui speech. In China, and the coun-
tries adjacent, this principle, with us confined to
COIIEA. 81
numerals and to alg^ebraic signs, extends to the
whole language ; and, as a knowledge of reading
and writing is very generally diflPused in those coun-
tries, it was quite natural that the Coreans should
be surprised at the ignorance of peoj)le of our pre-
tensions.
As we made no progress in the mutual expres-
sion of our wishes, we had recourse to a language
Avhich is pretty well understood all over the world
— that of the bottle ; and the disturbed features of
the irritable old chief speedily became smooth, un-
der the genial influence of our most powerful ally,
a glass of cherry-brandy. To the Corean boatmen,
and other villagers who came on boai-d, we distri-
buted rum, which as usual made us all good friends*
The chief alone, however, who seemed to be sit-
ting on thorns, w^as never long satisfied with any-
thing, but was continually ordering and counter-
ordering his officers and people in the most petulant
manner. More than once he waved his rod, and
ordered all hands into the boats, but as soon as he
tm-ned round, the people leaped on board again.
One fellow, who probably had got double allow-
ance of grog, made a gi'eat commotion behind the
chief, where he had stationed himself across the
hammocks. The old man after bidding him as we
supposed hold his tongue, to no purpose, ordered
him into confinement, and he was cairied off to the
boat.
The suite of the chief were dressed in loose white
robes, large hats, wide trowsers tied at the ancle,
and cotton shoes turned up at the toes. There
stood also some persons near him, whom we took
to be his body guard. Of these soldiers, some car-
ried nothing but a l>ow and arrows, whilst othere
W COREA.
were armed with swords. Their head-dress consist-
ed of a low conical hat, made of thickly-plaited
grass, on the top of which was fixed a small gilt
ornament, with a tass(?l of raw silk, and half a dozen
peacock's feathers worked together.
It had become nearly dark by this time, and mat-
ters were hanging rather heavy on our hands, when
the chief or<lere(l his boats to be got ready, and
called two of his attendants to assist him in rising,
an operation too undignified it appeared for him
to attempt alone. In compassion to the old man's
difficulty of locomotion, I had set the carpenters to
work the moment he came on board, to construct a
platform, along which he now marched out of the
ship, with much more ease than he had entered.
He remarked the difference, and seemed more plea-
sed with this mark of attention than he had been
with anything else we did to accommodate him.
So fai- all seemed well. But there was still some-
thing amiss, as the boat did not put off, but conti-
nued alongside, the old chief sitting stock still and
silent, with his uulighted pipe in his mouth. In
utter ignorance of what was expected of us, we
thought it could do no harm to pay him a visit :
probably this was what he waited for, since he
made room for us to sit down on his own mat, and
then looking roimd, appeared sorry that he had no-
thing to entertain us with ; at least we conjectu-
red that this was the difficulty, and therefore sent
for a bottle of wine, which the chief no sooner saw,
than he called for three or four bowls, and made
his pipe-bearer pour out the wine ; then touching
the vessels with his rod, made us all drink before he
would taste a tlrop. The oddity of liis entertain-
ing the company at their own expense seemed not
COREA. 83
to Strike him ; on the contrary he did the honours
with much cheerfulness, and for the first time, was
quite at his ease.
After sitting for ten minutes, we took our leave,
and the Corean boats rowed in the direction of
the town for about a himdred yards, then sud-
denly turning their heads round, proceeded to-
wards the Alceste. As it was now dark, we had
not dreamed of more visiting, and being sufficiently
tired with the day's work, were congratulating our-
selves with all these ceremonies being at an end,
and that the remainder of the evening was at our
own disposal, when it was announced that the ve-
nerable chief was on his way to the commodore.
Captain Maxwell by dint of hard rowing reached
his ship in time to have the quarter-deck and ac-
commodation ladder lighted up, and everything ar-
ranged for the reception of the chief. He was evi-
dently much struck with the appearance of the
ship, particularly when he entered the cabin, and
foimd himself in a large and elegantly-furnished
apartment. Captain Maxwell showed him the way
and begged him to sit down, but he would use no-
thing but his own favourite mat. The sentinel,
however, at the cabin door had orders to stop
every one from entering but the chief himself, and
seeing no reason for admitting the mat-bearer more
than the others, some minutes elapsed before this
essential part of his establishment could be found.
Meanwhile, the old man looked about him, asto-
nished at the unexpected splendour of the apart-
ment ; and as Captain Maxwell had changed his
jacket for a long coat, he did not at first recognize
him. On discoveiing his mistake, he laughed for
the first and I tluiUv the only time, and his beha-
84 COREA.
viour afterwards was certainly less constrained.
He did not relisli being left alone with us, how-
ever, and seemed ill at ease till the secretary and
tln-ee or fom* others were called in.
It appeared that he had forgotten the fate of his
dispatch on board the Lyra, or else he wished once
more to fathom the depth of our ignorance, pro-
bably not conceiving it possible that the owner of
such a dwelling should be unable to read or write.
Whatever his reasons might be, he ordered his se-
cretary to prepare another wTiting without delay,
and as soon as it was examined, handed it with
great formality to Captain Maxwell. The original
document is now in my possession, as well as the
translation, made by the interpreter to the Bntish
Factory at Canton, which runs thus : —
" Persons, of what land are you ? — of wliat na-
tion ? — On account of what business do you come
hither ?— In the ship are there any literary men,
who thoroughly understand, and can explain what
is written ?"
We readily conjectured that something to this
purpose must he the import of the writing : had
we known it then, however, as correctly as we do
now, the knowledge would have served us little
purpose, for we had no means of reply, except in-
deed to the latter part of the question, which Cap-
tain Maxwell answered in a manner certainly the
most effectual that could be devised. He did it,
however, with so much ceremony, and at the
same time such perfect gravity, that it was sin-
gularly ludicrous. Having called for his clerk, he
proceeded to imitate the chief, and A^Tote a letter
which he presented with a low bow. This dis-
patch was not quite so long as the chief's, and
COREA. 85
contained simply this : — " I do not understand one
word that you say."
The chief not doubting in the least that he
should understand the writing as soon as he look-
ed at it, carefully inspected the paper, and turned it
first one way and then another, but all to no pur-
pose. At last he looked towards Captain Maxwell
with an inquiring air and pointed impatiently to
the paper. Captain Maxwell took up the chiefs
letter and did exactly the same, implying an equal
degree of ignorance : but it was not till a consider-
able time had elapsed that the chief saw the simi-
larity of their predicaments, and finally gave up all
hopes of communicating by any means but signs.
On turning round, his eye happened to catch a
mirror which was hanging between the ports, on
one side. Captain Maxwell took it down and pla-
ced it in the old man's hands. He seemed mightily
pleased with the image which it reflected, for he
stroked his beard and pulled it from side to side for
some time with an air of great complacency. One
of the suite, whose curiosity overcame his good
manners, could not resist the temptation, and steal-
ing behind the chief, took a sly peep likewise.
The appeai-ance of another face over his shoulder,
completely oversetting the chiefs good humour, the
offender was scolded in set terms, and then dis-
missed the cabin. A similar discipline was ex-
erted over the poor secretary, who thnist his head
between Captain Maxwell and his clerk, while
they were concocting a reply to the letter. Thus
scarcely five minutes passed over our irritable
guest's head, without something occurring to dis-
compose him, although we sometimes suspected
this constant exercise of authority about trifles,
VOL. r. H
86 COREA.
might be assumed merely to impress the strangers
with an idea of his importance. But whether or
not this fretfulness was feigned while in the cabin,
no one could doubt the sincerity of his displeasure
a minute after he came on the quarter-deck to take
leave. On passing the gun-room skylight, his
quick ear caught the sound of voices below, and
looking down he detected some of his people en-
joying themselves, and making very merry over a
bottle of wine with the officers of the ship. On his
bawling out to them, they leaped on their feet, and
hurried up the ladder in great consternation. The
alarm soon spread along the lower deck to another
jovial party of the Coreans, who were carousing
with the midshipmen.
All over the world it seems to be an English-
man's maxim to give his guest more to drink than
is good for him, and accordingly, most of the Co-
reans came stumbling up the ladder half tipsy, and
staggered across the deck, to the great wrath of the
chief, who disapproved totally of these symptoms
of familiarity. The first one or two who made
their appearance, bolted over the gangway into their
boats, and thus eluded the chief's scnitiny ; after
which he stationed himself at the hatchway, and
caught each man as he came up, punching him
soundly with his little rod in a very undignified
manner, until the culprit by calling out betrayed
himself. One poor fellow, the broad sleeve of
whose robe was filled with biscuits given him
below, managed to slip past, and run to the oppo-
site side of the deck. The chief left his post, and
set out in chase round the quarter-deck, to the un-
speakable entertainment of the sailors. As the
weight of the biscuit retarded the offender's speed,
COREA. 87
he managed, just before the chief reached Iiim, to
sHde his whole canro into a coil of roj)e, and then
surrendered himself prisoner. But the old man,
catching a lantern from one of the sidesmen,
pointed out the stolen goods Tvith an air of great
exultation, as a proof of the efficiency of his disci-
pline. On finding no more people come up, he
went down to the main-deck, and by rummaging
about under the guns, and amongst the pumps,
satisfied himself that no one was concealed. At
length he took his leave, after invitmg us, as we
thought, to visit him on shore the next day.
On returning to the Lyia, well tu-ed with
the day's work, I found about a dozen Corean
boats anchored in a cii'cle round the brig, but
from the crews being all asleep, we conjectured
they were not there for the pm-pose of watch-
ing us, but were expecting the chief to return.
We roused them up by banging one of their own
gongs ; and they no sooner discovered, by our
pointing to the shore and making signs, that the
man with the large hat and long beard had gone in
that direction, than they bestirred themselves to
get their anchors up, and soon left us to ourselves.
The Corean boats resemble those of China in
many respects ; their bow and stem, however, are
not so upright, but project at an angle of thirty de-
grees with the water. The whole cable is wound
upon a reel turned at the ends by winches, and
not coiled away as with us. It appears to be
made of a long grass very neatly twisted. To the
cable is attached a very primitive description of
anchor, being merely two bent elbows of a dark-
coloured wood, which sinks in the water, a pro-
perty, in some instances, assisted by stones fas-
88 conEA.
tened to the crossing of the flukes and the shank,
both of which are made of wood. When not
under Bail, these boats are impelled by oars, rude
in appearance, but effectual enough in practice,
consisting merely of a pole, to the extremity of
which a flat circular board is laced by thongs.
Every boat also carries over her stem, and fre-
quently on both quarters, a long oar — which serves
the double purpose of steering, and of skulling, aa
it is technically called, an excellent method of giv-
ing impidse to lai*ge boats, in which the natives of
China and the adjacent cotmtries excel all other
nations. This method, by the way, is well wor-
thy of imitation in crowded rivers, from its taking
up literally no room. In the Thames, and in all
other European, as well as American rivers, the
use of the skull, if I am not mistaken, is con-
fined almost entirely to small boats. In China I
have seen vessels of more than a hundred tons,
propelled rapidly by means of several skulls, with
four or five men to each ; and I am confident it
might be usefully applied to our river barges,
instead of the huge sweeps or oars now in use,
which not only take up unnecessary space, but are
not nearly so efficient. The Chinese skull, it may
be observed, is made to work on the smooth top
of a nail or bolt, about as large as the little finger,
the top of which fits into a small hollow space
cut in the oar, whereas with us the skull is made
to turn in a nick in the stem.
At day-break next morning, a considerable bustle
was observed on shore, and shortly afterwards the
perseveripig old chief again embarked and rowed to
the ships, accompanied by a still more numerous
escort of boats and people, who had assembled du-
COREA. 89
ring the night fi-om the various villages lying round
the bay. The morning was very fine, and nothing
could be more brilliant than the appearance of this
procession, with flags and streamers flying from all
the masts, and gay crowds of people covering every
deck. They came slowly towards us, beating gongs
and playing lively martial aii"s on their shrill pipes.
The Lyra, happening to lie nearest to the shore,
was first honom-ed with a visit. We determined
to entertain our guest below upon this occasion,
but as the cabin was not quite ready for his recep-
tion, he was allowed to walk about the decks, and
to examine things as he pleased, a degree of liber-
ty for which he seemed very grateful. Presently
he proposed to go below, but on the way down
was nearly wedged into the hatchway, the open-
ing being barely sufficient to admit his prodi-
gious hat. If he was disappointed with the con-
fined accommodation, compared to that of the Al-
ceste, he was too well bred to notice such things,
and even condescended to sit on a chaii', when he
saw there was not a bit of room for his mat. A pair
of globes first attracted his attention, with the mo-
tion of which he expressed a childish sort of de-
light. In the same way, the pictures in the books
amused him, as well as the mirrors, spy-glasses,
and everything he saw.
The chief was accompanied this morning by a
person, whom, from the richness of his dress, we
supposed to be a man of rank. He looked, how-
ever, so unwell, probably from being a little sea-sick,
that we took it into our heads he must have come
on board to consult the medical gentlemen. The
idea was no sooner started than we set about con-
firming ourselves in the mistake, by making signs
II 2
90 COREA.
to express illness, and pointing to the cause of our
anxiety. The poor man, who, from tlie urbanity
of his manners, acquired amongst us the name of
the Courtier, not knowing what we would be at,
replied, as people do on such occasions, by a civil
look. Following up our original idea, the doctor
was sent for, who felt his pulse, made him expose
his tongue, and as far as could be accomplished,
inquired into liis ailments — an absurd enough dis-
cipline for a man in perfect health. The chief mean-
while looked on with great gravity, and both he
and the patient probably believe to this hour that
such a ceremonial forms merely a part of our es-
tablished etiquette.
When the doctor had done, the Courtier was
freed from farther scnitiny, and he commenced
examining the books lying on a shelf near him
with so much apparent interest that I begged him
to accept one. He grasped it with eagerness, and,
after clasping it to liis breast, dropped it cxmningly
into his long sleeve, wliich, like the same part of a
monk's dress in Europe, forms a most capacious
pocket. I had not the least thought of any re-
turn for this gift ; but a minute afterwards, when
the old chief's back was turned, the Courtier slip-
ped his fan very mysteriously into my hand under
the table. Seeing that this was to be a private
transaction between us, I sent it away with equal
secrecy by my steward, who was placing the tea-
things. Unfortunately my precaution was rendered
fruitless, for on the cabin becoming exceedingly
hot, I rang and desired my servant to bring me a
fan, and he not knowing there was any mystery,
naturally brought back the Courtier's present.
The slern old chief recognized it immediately, and
COREA. 91
rose half off his chair, his great hat Butteiing like
a flag in the wind with rage, while the poor Cotirtier
stood trembling from top to toe, ready to sink into
the ground with fear. I interfered and endeavoured
to explain, that if there was any one in fault it was
not the Courtier. But it was a long time before
the old gentleman was appeased and resumed his
seat, allowing the Courtier to keep his book, while
I carefully locked up the fan.
Breakfast not being quite ready, our restless
visitor became desirous of seeing more of the ship,
and proceeded towards the deck; but happening
to discover as he passed the officers sitting at their
table, he turned to the left, into the gim-room, in-
stead of going up the ladder. Without waiting
for any invitation, he steered straight into the first-
lieutenant's cabin, which he examined minutely.
His curiosity in these matters induced me to in-
vite him to go along the lower deck — a pro-
posal which delighted him greatly. But it was
impossible to keep on the state-hat during this
adventure, the deck being only five feet high ; so
that at length it came off to the old boy's evident
mortification. He was amply repaid, however, for
this sacrifice of dignity, by the multitude of ob-
jects which lay before him. Scarcely a sailor's bag or
chest escaped his scrutiny ; and wherever he com-
menced his researches, nothing short of a thorough
overhaul, during which everything was tossed out,
would satisfy him. He rummaged over the midship-
men's drawers and lockers, tumbled a whole case of
marine accoutrements out on the deck ; and turn-
ed everything he could lay his hands on topsy-
turvy. He next went to the kitchen, where he
lifted the lids from the cook's l)oilers, dipped his
92 COREA.
little rod into the boiling cocoa, and inspected all
the tea-kettles and coft«e-pots. The lustre and
sharpness of one of the ship's cutlasses delighted
him so much, that I asked him to accept it. The
offer seemed to produce a great struggle be-
tween duty and inclination, but it was of no
long duration, for, after a moment's consultation
with the Courtier, he returned the glittering wea-
pon to its scabbard, and, as I thought with a
sigh, restored it to its place. What his scruples
were on this occasion I could not imagine, for he
had no such delicacy about anything else, but
seemed desirous of possessing samples of almost
everything he saw. Of course, he was freely sup-
plied with each article he pointed out, which, as
soon as it was given him, went straight to his im-
mense sleeve, which soon hung down with its
cargo, like the pouch of an overgorged pelican. He
contrived at length, when sufficiently loaded, to
hobble up the hatchway ladder, and as soon as he
reached the air, looked about and laughed, like a
schoolboy who, for the first time in his life, has
been indulged with a peep at a raree-show.
In this interval the natives, by our free permis-
sion, had been busily employed in taking the dimen-
sions of the brig with lines and rulers ; together with
an exact inventory of the guns, shot, spars, rig-
ging, boats, and everything capable of enumeration.
They were much puzzled at this moment as to the
number of persons on board, for I found the survey-
ing commissioner, with his note-book in his hand,
in the midst of a party of young gentlemen, who I
suspected, were amusing themselves at the Corean's
expense, as they were all laughing, and he was look-
ing veiy grave. They stoutly denied having played
CORBA. f)3
off any humours on the native; hut I had reason to
suspect they had been misinforming him as to our
numbers, for when I extended my fingers eight
times to him, he erased an entry from his book,
and substituted the new information, with a look
of much satisfaction.
The old chief, who must needs be everywhere,
came rustling up to us during this dumb-show con-
versation, and laying his hand on one of the car-
ronades, seemed as I thought, to wish it should be
fired off. Nothing was easier than gratifying him
in this matter, for as it was ready loaded and pri-
med, nothing was required but to lift off the leaden
apron and cock the lock. I then looked to see
that no boat was in the way, and pulling the lan-
yard of the trigger, off went the gun, the whole
being the work of not more than four or five
seconds. Had a thimderbolt fallen amongst the
natives, it could not have astonished them more ;
and tlieir admiration rose to the highest pitch,
when they observed the shot strike the water, close
to the ship, and rebound eight or ten times before
it finally disappeared. They could scarcely, in-
deed, believe their senses, and looked incredulous-
ly at one another, when I showed them a thirty-
two pound shot, such as had been fired. They
handed it from one to another with looks of un-
feigned wonder, and with that sort of respect
which a ball of this magnitude seldom fails to ex-
cite, even in minds more familiar with the power
of gunpowder than the poor Coreans.
In the meantime, Captain Maxwell came to us,
and breakfast being ready, we prevailed on the
indefatigable old chief to attempt the hatchway
once more. When fairly seated at table, he ate
94 COREA.
heartily of everything placed before him, appear-
ing particularly to relish a dish of hashed pork. A
knife and fork were given him, certainly the first
he ever beheld, but after a little instruction, he
used them not only without much awkwardness,
but to such satisfactory purpose, that he decUned
substituting for these strange implements, a pair
of Chinese chop-sticks, which were offered him.
When tea was given him without sugar or mUk,
on the supposition that he would prefer it in the
Chinese fashion, he looked to the right and left
before tasting it, and observing us drinking it dif-
ferently, held up his cup with a look of reproach
to the servant, and insisted upon having his share
of the good things.
The facility with which this Corean chief, who
but a few hours before must have been entirely ig-
norant of our customs, could accommodate him-
self to our habits, was very remarkable. On many
occasions where he could not be supposed to act
from our immediate example, he adopted the very
«ame forms which our rules of politeness teach us
to observe ; and if we did not deceive ourselves,
this observation which was actually made at the
moment, is so far curious as it seems to show,
that however nations differ in the amount of know-
ledge, or ia degrees of civilization, the usages
wliich regulate the personal intercourse of all so-
cieties possess a striking uniformity. As far at least
as my experience goes, I have remarked, in a
considerable range of the social scale, that where
there is at bottom a sincere desire to please, which
is quite compatible with the most savage as well
as the most refined state of society, the forms in
which this disposition is expressed, are pretty much
alike in all.
COREA. 95
When breakfast was over, and the boats again
manned, and ready to shove oflf, we signified our
intention as well as we could, of landing at the
town, to which it was thought the chief had given
us an invitation the evening before. This interpre-
tation of the matter he either would not, or could
not, be made to take up ; for as often as we point-
ed to the shore, the old man pointed to the frigate.
The morning, however, was wearing fast away,
and it became necessary to decide the matter one
way or other ; taking therefore to our boats, we
rowed in the direction of the landing-place. The
chief, evidently in great pertm-bation, having first
turned his boat's head towai'ds the Alceste, made
his people lie on their oars. Upon seeing this, we
rowed alongside of him, to discover if possible what
was amiss ; but the old chief took no notice of us, till
he had held a council of war with his attendants ;
tben suddenly and much to our surprise, he
stepped over his own gunwale into Captain Max-
well's gig. This manoeuvre was construed by some
into a desire on the chief's part to keep us com-
pany ; while others ascribed it to his wish to show
publicly that he had no hand in conducting stran-
gers to their inhospitable shore ; that compulsion,
in short, was used on the occasion. Whatever was
his motive, he sat for some time composedly
enough ; but before many minutes had elapsed, he
repented of his too ready comphance, and eagorly
made signs for us to go back.
It was now our turn not to understand this
dumb language, and we rowed merrily onwards.
As we approached the beach, the old man's dis-
tress augmented ; and when at length our keel
touched the sand, and the bowman, by leaping out
96 COREA.
to fix the gang-board, actually landed on the for-
bidden soil, he hqld up his hands in despair, droop-
ed his woe-begone countenance on one side, and
drew his hand repeatedly across his throat, from
ear to ear, unequivocally implying, that some one
or other must lose his head on the occasion. This
was perplexing enough ; but as we had now fairly
done the deed, and reached the shore, it was
thought that without any gi-eat aggravation of the
offence, we might enjoy the satisfaction of a walk
in this unexplored country. Accordingly, we step-
ped out, followed in very miserable plight by our
venerable friend. As it was low water, we had to
scramble through sea-weed and wet sand for about
fifty yards, before reaching a dry spot, where a
halt was made in order, if possible, to console our
worthy companion. We tried to signify that our
wishes went no farther than to walk about for
half an hour, to stretch our Hmbs stiffened by so
long a voyage ; after which it was our intention to
return on board to dinner. To the latter part of
our discourse, which consisted in making the ac-
tion of eating and pointing to the ships, his only
reply was, to repeat the beheading motion with
which he had before endeavoured, in the boat, to
work on our fears or our compassion. " How can
I eat with my head off?" was the interpretation
suggested by the late Dr M'Leod, a man of in-
finite jest, as every one knows who has perused
his most amusing narrative. The humorous man-
ner in which this was spoken, made all our party
laugh ; but our mirth only augmented the chiefs
distress, and we began seriously to fear that we
had proceeded too far.
The town, however, not being half a mile fi'om
COREA. 97
the spot where we had landed, our purpose waa
merely to walk through it, to climb the wooded hill
behind, and to return by the top of the ridge to
our boats, which were ordered to wait at the beach.
Before advancing many paces, however, we were
surrounded by upwai'ds of a hundred of the na-
tives, and there was reason to think we might
pay more deai-ly for our curiosity than at fii-st
had been reckoned upon. A word from the
chief at this instant might have finished our expe-
dition in a trice ; but on appealing to him against
this interruption, he spoke some words to his
body-guard, which consisted of four soldiers arm-
ed Avith bows and arrows. The military soon got
the better of the populace, by pelting them hearti-
ly with stones ; thus inverting the usage of more
polished communities, where these missiles are the
established weapons of the mob.
The road being now clear, we turned to prose-
cute our walk, when lo ! the old chief was in tears,
literally sobbing like a child, with his head resting
on the Courtier's shoulder. This was rather too
much : for however pitiable and ludicrous it may
now seem, it had then a very different character,
and all idea of going farther was instantly given
up. Eveiy one regretted that matters had been
pushed to this extremity, but Captain Maxwell
probably more than any other person, as he had
been in some degree urged into it, against his bet-
ter feelings and sounder judgment.
The case being now hopeless, the boat was
launched again, and we returned to our ships. The
signal was made to weigh, and I stood out to sea
in the Lyra, to sound the passages in the direction
pointed out. I observed, however, that the Al-
VOL. I. I
98 COEEA.
ceste (lid not follow immediately ; and I learned
afterwards, that the old chief had paid the Com-
modore another visit, just as the frigate's an-
chor was leaving the ground. His appearance was
quite changed ; his sprightliness, unceremonious
manners, and insatiable curiosity, having given
place to a cold and stately civility. He appeared
much embarrassed, perhaps from an apprehen-
sion of having given offence. But if it were
80, he was soon undeceived in this matter, as he
could not fail to perceive, that however his want
of hospitality had disappointed the Avishes and ex-
pectations of his visitor, no trace of ill will could
abide on Captain Maxwell's mind. On the con-
trary, every attempt was made to repair the injury
done to him, by our landing on his temtory. He
was offered many presents, but declined them
all ; till at last just when he was going away. Cap-
tain Maxwell urged him so earnestly to accept of
a large Bible, that the old man could not refuse,
and they parted mutual friends.
We quitted this bay, the only point at which we
touched on the peninsula of Corea, without much
regret. There was so little that was conciliatory
or inviting in the manners of the inhabitants, that
we had not much expectation of being able by a
longer stay to establish a useful or friendly inter-
course with them. The venerable chief indeed,
with his snow-white beard, his pompous array, and
his amusing and active curiosity, had made a con-
siderable impression upon us all. On the other
hand his unmanly distress, from whatever cause
it arose, inevitably took away some of the respect
with which we were disposed to consider him. This
circumstance, however, gave the whole picture a
COREA. 99
peculiar interest, and we forgot what was ridicu-
lous iu the old man's cliaracter, in the uncertainty
which must probably for ever hang over his fate.
Frequent mention has been made of the re-
course we were obliged to have to signs. But after
a time we discovered tliis method of communica-
tion, so much alluded to in voyages and travels, to
be often very fallacious. There is no saying what
advantage might arise from it after a long acquain-
tance, even supposing the oral language unknoTvn ;
but certainly when the parties are total strangers
to each other, the language of signs in many cases
is almost useless. It was remarked, indeed, more
than once upon the present occasion, that when
either the Coreans or the English made signs, un-
accompanied by language, their signification was
readily understood by the by-standers of the na-
tion using them, though absolutely incomprehensi-
ble by those to whom they were addressed. This
might arise from the essential differences in the ha-
bits, and general tenor of thought in the parties
respectively ; or it might be, that the individual
persons of each nation being acquainted more or
less with what was wished, would have little dif-
ficulty in apprehending the meaning of any parti-
cular point which it was the object of these signs to
communicate. Be this as it may, there could be
no doubt that our presence was disagreeable, and
our departure the great object of their wishes.
The extreme promptitude with which we were
met at tliis remote spot, and the systematic per-
tinacity with which our landing was opposed, not
only on the continent, but even at islands barely
in sight of the coast, certainly imply an extraordi-
nary degree of vigilance and jealousy on the part
100 CORKA.
of the povemment. Ono can understand this bet- ;
ter in China, where tlie circumstance of a strange
ship callinj^ at one of the outports, is a possible,
though not a probable, event ; and where the go- |
vernment, instead of encouraging foreign trade, are
perpetually on the watch to repress all attempts at
an extension of foreign intercourse with their Ce-
lestial Empire. But in Corea, where there is in-
finitely less probability of a foreign ship ever
calling, the same watchfulness against foreign in-
terference, is far more curious.
We need not look so far, perhaps, as the
coasts of the Yellow Sea, to be convinced how
slowly nations arrive at enlightened ideas on the
subject of external relations, as there are not want-
ing individuals, and perhaps whole countries in
Europe, who still maintain this repulsive Corean
system to be the wisest. And it might be curious
to trace on the globe the different steps or shades
of liberality in this respect. Beginning with Corea
and Japan, the least sociable of all nations, we
next come to China, the commercial resources of
which mighty empire are dribbled sparingly off at
the solitary port of Canton. Manilla, which is
strictly ruled by the principles of the Spanish co-
lonial system, is but a single degree better. I*ro-
ceeding to the westward we come to Java, where
the restrictions and monopolies of the Dutch are
still felt, though of late somewhat modified. When
the Straits of Sunda are passed, a nobler field of
view is opened in British India, the Isle of France,
the Cape, and still farther westward, the free con-
tinents of South and North America. After again
crossing the Trade-winds, we come within the in-
fluence of English intelligence on both sidee of
COREA. 101
the Atlantic ; thougli even in these latitudes we
may perhaps detect some anomalous views of the
subject quite worthy of Corea.
During the 6th and 7th of September, we steer-
ed to the Southward and Westward, amongst the
islands, which lay in thick clusters along the coast,
and for many leagues out at sea. As most of them
were inhabited, frequent opportunities occurred of
seeing the natives, who generally assembled on the
highest point of the rocks to look at the ships pass-
ing. The water was generally shallow, and many
large boats at anchor were busily employed fishing
with hooks and lines, and sometimes with nets. For
more than a hundred miles we continued to thread
our way amongst this immense archipelago, any pro-
bable enumeration of whose numbers we discovered
to be impossible. The whole sea within the horizon
viewed from the deck was crowded with islands ;
and when we ascended to the mast-head, groups be-
yond groups, like clusters of stars in the milky way,
were discovered lying as far as the eye could reach.
The largest island was estimated at about six miles
in length, and some of them were mere rocks. Many
were cleft by valleys, which became the channels
of small streams ; and all being more or less cul-
tivated, and frequently wooded to the very top, the
scene was not only interesting from its novelty and
magnificence, but was often extremely picturesque
and beautiful. Of this coast, as I have before said,
we possessed no chart having the slightest preten-
sions to accuracy ; and, indeed, during the greatest
part of our course, for nearly two himdred miles,
we were sailing, according to the best authorities,
considerably in the interior of the country.
The tides swept occasionally with much rapidi-
I 2
102 COREA.
ty through the narrow channels, rendering ^eat
caution at all times necessaiy to avoid beinp^ cai-
ried on the rocks. About four o'clock in the af-
ternoon of the 7th of September, after the sea-
breeze had died away, and left us drifting alona
with the tide iu a perfect calm, a reef of rocks wa.-s
discovered at no great distance, over which the
tide was boiling and foaming most furiously. The
anchor, by which two men, with axes in their hands,
were always stationed day and night, was cut away ;
but owing to the strength of the cuiTent, the violent
jerk with which the ship was brought up snapped
the cable in two. Another anchor, to which the
chain cable was attached, was let go in a mo-
ment, and arrested the ship's farther progi'ess : this
was just in time, as the stern swung only a few
feet clear of a ledge of sharp-pointed rocks, capable
of piercing througli the ship's bottom at the first
touch. As soon as the tide slackened, we removed
from this unpleasant situation, and sent boats to
explore in all directions. The reefs were disco-
vered to form a breakwater, behind which there lay
a perfectly secure harbour, where both ships soon
anchored.
This conversion of an evil into an advantage is
a frequent occurrence in nautical affairs. The shoals
and rocks which in one view threaten the mari-
ner with shipwTeck, often afford him, when duly
taken advantage of, the very means of his security.
It was the saying of a distinguished philosopher,
deeply engaged in experimental researches, that
whenever he found himself stopped by a difficulty,
or when he encountered what was usually termed
a failure, he was certain of being on tlie ])rink of a
discovery. The same njaxim will apply to the
COREA, 103
science of navigation, as well as to others ; but it
remains for the genius of such men as Smeaton
and Rennie to realize the promise — by converting,
for instance, the formidable dangers of the Eddy-
stone rocks into the leading mark for Plymouth
Sound ; which in its turn by a similar species of
alchemy, is transmuted from a dangerous and in-
convenient roadstead, into one of tlie securest har-
bours in England.
The Lyra was enabled to anchor so much near-
er the shore than the Alceste, that we command-
ed a view of a pretty large village, entu-ely hid
from the frigate by rocks and trees. The male
inliabitants, as usual, had retreated to the high-
est point of the island, but we could discover in
the village, by means of our glasses, several wo-
men. We thought they looked fairer tlian the
men, that is to say, less brown, for the whole race
were dark. They were also somewhat ditferent-
ly di'essed, as they wore a white robe, open in
front, and reaching a little below the knee, fastened
round the waist by a dark-coloured nan'ow zone.
Their hair, however, was dressed like that of the
men, in a high spiral bunch or knot, over whicli
was sometimes thrown loosely a plain white hand-
kerchief. Before the door of one of the houses,
some damsels, very scantily attu'ed, were busily en-
gaged in husking rice, by beating it in mortars, at-
tended by a group of women and children, win-
nowing com in the Chinese manner, by throwing
it in the air. The only species of work which we
saw the men engaged seriously in, at any of these
islands, was fishing, and making and repairing thek
•nets.
We landed, and walked to tlie village, where
two nKMi and a dog were the only living creatures
104. COREA.
that wore waiting to receive us. If there was any
difference, the Jog was the least surly of the throo ;
but on none of them could we make any impres-
sion by means of signs, or by offers of buttons and
other valuables, which we brought with us to bribe
their good-will. They would neither speak nor
move, or if they did exhibit any show of life, it
was by an occasional wave of the hand towards tlio
ships. Our past experience had prepared us to
expect a cool reception, but certainly we had not
expected to have a whole village to ourselves.
We gladly took advantage, however, of the only
opportunity we had yet had of carrying our re-
searches within doors.
Nothing very curious rewarded our pains ; but
as there is perhaps no other description of a Core an
house on record, a few words may not be out
of place. The door was made to turn on an iij)-
right moveable bar, fitted into a cross-beam abov.-,
and a hole in the threshold stone below. Before
it lay a neat smooth little court, surrourded by a
close hedge, of a sweet-scented red and white
flower, resembling the honeysuckle in shape. On
the ground were lying some bundles of com, r>
two wooden mortars, with double-handed pestl
for removing the husks. Cooking utensils weri=
ranged along the wall on one side of the door ;
to the left of the court were several com stacks.
The house was overshadowed by large trees, whose
leaf resembled that of the Portugal laurel ; and the
trunks of these trees and the ends of the house were
covered with a thick matting of small-leaved ivy.
Nothing within corresponded to the taste and neat-
ness of the exterior. The room, for there was
but one, was dark and dirty, the walls and roof
being either covered with cobwebs or glazed by
COREA. 105
the action of wood-smoke. The floor was diversi-
fied by hill and dale, much in the maimer of some
cottages which I have seen nearer home, with the
appropriate appendage of a lake here and there.
The fire-place stood between two large boilers,
sunk deep in rude brick-work, the use of which
vessels we could not surmise. On the hot embers
of the fire lay a couple of fish, one of which, a
fine fresh haddock, we took the liberty of help-
ing ourselves to, in the inhospitable absence of
the rightful owners. On the wall opposite to
this miserable fire-place, were ranged on two
shelves a goodly store of coarse crockery, and
two or three round shining metal pots and pans.
On one of the shelves also stood what seemed
two wooden stools, handsomely carved, and var-
nished with the brilliant lacker used in China.
These implements, if we did not mistake their
use, certainly appeared much too fine for the
rest of the establishment, and quite out of place
standing on a shelf. The roof was of thatch,
resting on a net-work of rods, and the eves ex-
tended more than a yaid from the walls, at once
affording shade to a narrow verandah in front of
the house, and giving shelter to the windows from
rain — a precaution quite necessary to its existence,
as it was composed of oiled paper, pasted over
small square openings in a wooden frame. The
walls themselves were built of stones and mud,
most inartificially put together — a want of neat-
ness and skill which did not apply to the more
difficult branch of architectm-e, the frame-work of
the roof, this being constructed precisely on oui*
principles, with a king-post and rafters, very neat-
ly morticed in their proper places.
Having completed our inventory, we returned
106 COREA.
to the two surly ^ardians of the village, who l)y
this time wen* somewhat more communicative,
and presently yielded completely to Captain Max-
well's good humour and invincible patience. As
Boon as he caught a smile on one of their lip^,
he insisted on shaking hands, and then drawim:
the native's arm familiarly through his own, fair-
ly marched him off. I could do no better, I
thought, than follow this example, and thus all
four jogged along till we reached a house on
the side of the hill, where a halt was agreed up-
on, and signs made to explain that we should
have no objection to smoke a pipe with our new
friends. The object in view was if possible to es-
tablish something like a friendly intercourse with
these jealous people, and in time possibly this
might have been effected. But while we were
getting acquainted by slow degrees with these two
men, our attention was taken off by a Corean boat,
which entered the bay at this moment, and rowed
directly to the village. The crew jumped hastily
on shore, and came up the hill towards us at a ra-
pid pace, and with no very friendly looks or ges-
tures. Captain Maxwell and I were alone, and
without fire-arms. It was possible, we thought,
that violence might be intended, but it was clearly
the safest plan to imply just the contrary ; and,
accordingly, we met them at the entrance of the
court with confidence and good humour. Their
object proved anytJiingbut hostile ; for they sat down
with us, and hastily filling their pipes, lighted them
for us themselves, and begged us to smoke. Our
language appeared to have something ludicrous in
its sound to their ears, for they laughed in the most
immoderate way at some of our expressions, and
made us repeat the words England and Maxwell
CO RE A. 107
over and over again, tlie whole party, to the num-
ber of eight or ten, bursting into a violent laugh the
moment they were spoken.
After the first civilities, such as they were, had
been intercBanged, the strangers crowded round,
and by their gestures and looks seemed desirous of
examining the different articles of our dress. To
gratify them in this matter I thought was easy
enough ; but they wished to caiTy the inspection to
the utmost extent, and were not contented with ta-
king off my hat, coat, and gloves, but must needs
investigate the shoes and stockings, and finally
expressed some dissatisfaction at my declining to
proceed farther than the removal of my waistcoat.
Captain Maxwell, who stood by with a Corean pipe
in his mouth, was as much amused as any of the
party; but he declined being searched, and the
natives were willing to leave him alone on condi-
tion of my submitting. No part of my dress ex-
cited so much interest as the stockings. Holdmg
them up to one another, they shouted, " Hota !
Hota !" upon which we took do-i\Ti the word Hota
in our vocabularies as the Corean for stockings ;
but in the next minute we heard the same word
applied to several other things, which made us sus-
pect the word meant good, or wonderful. Simi-
lar errors are very apt to be committed by per-
sons who visit a people with whose language they
have not the least acquaintance. To learn the na-
tive expressions, therefore, equivalent to " What
do you call this ?" should be the first point aimed
at ; and it may generally be caught by watching
closely when new objects are shown to them.
It was reasonable to hope that the other vil-
lagers, who had fled on our approacli, woidd now
be induced to return, on seeing so cordial a com-
108 COREA.
munication oRtablishod between us and theh" coun-
trymen ; but as not one of tliem came down, it was
determined we should go in quest of them. We
therefore proceeded up the hill, in expectation of
coming suddenly upon the inJiabitants, aSd thus ob-
taining a view of their females, not one of whom had
been seen at a less distance than half a mile. But
our companions took good care that this manceu-
vre should not serve, as they went along with us,
and shouted so loudly, that their comrades and
the women having due warning, kept themselves
effectually concealed. At length we came near a
ravine, in which most probably the fugitives were
hid ; for the Coreans made violent objections to
our further advance. The discussion which now
ensued led to the discovery of a singidar faculty
which these people possess of imitating sounds.
One of them, in his anxiety to airest my further
proceedings, seized my arm, and pinched it so se-
verely, that I turned upon him, and exclaimed,
'• Patience, sir I" He instantly let go his hold,
and repeated what I had said with the most exact
articulation and tone. On hearing these words
from their companion, the others made the at-
tempt likewise, with equal success ; so that no-
thing was heard for some minutes but " Patience,
sir !" This incident, by furnishing a new topic,
had the effect of making us better acquainted with
one another ; and all the way down the hill we
amused ourselves by instructing the Coreans in
English. Our scholars were so apt, that before
reaching the boat some of them could repeat a
whole sentence so correctly, that the boat's crew
when they heard the Coreans speak, actually be-
lieved they understood our language.
COREA. 109
Before quitting the shore, we ini-ited them, in
the best manner we could, to come off to the sliips
in the morning. One of tlie natives, it was ima-
gined, comprehended tliese signs ; for he fii'st made
preparations, as we thought, for going to bed,
placed his head on his hand, closed Iiis eyes, and
snored very emphatically. After a second or
two he started up, affected to look about him,
and then laid his hand upon Captain Maxwell's
shoulder, witli an air of welcome. This piece of
dumb show was vai'iously rendered. Captain Max-
well conceived him to say, that if we would go
away for the night, we might expect to be well re-
ceived next day ; whilst I understood it as a pro-
mise on the part of the Corean to visit us in the
morning. Both guesses were wrong ; for the man
never came near us, and our reception when we
did land again was the reverse of welcome. In
.one respect alone we probably never erred, name-
ly, in supposing our presence irlisome ; for the only
measure the natives heartily approved of was our
preparation to depart.
On the 9th September we landed a little before
sun-rise, in hopes to find the villagers still in theij-
houses ; but tliey had again given us the slip, and
not a mortal was to be seen anywhere. Thus foil-
ed in all our endeavours to conciliate this inhospi-
table people, we determined merely to take a look
round us from a high peak near tlie centre of the
island, and then to plague them no more.
On our way to the summit, tlwee or four of the
Coreans joined us ; two of them were of last even-
ing's party, the others were strangers. On reach-
ing a grove of fir-trees growing about lialf way up
the hill, one of the new comers strongly objected
VOL. I. K " 4
110 CORE A.
to our proceeding farther ; but we pursued our way
notwithstanding. On reaching an open space, where
there happened to be a decayed stump of an old
tree standing in the centre, one of our companions
fell on his knees before it, touched the gi'ound with
his forehead, and clasped his hands before his breast
in the attitude of prayer. This proceeding had all
the appearance of a stratagem to dissuade us from
going farther ; for the other Coreans took no notice
of their companion's prostrations, and he himself
seeing that his proceedings had made no impres-
sion upon us, got on his legs, and walked very
sulkily away. During all our intercourse with the
Coreans, we could detect no other circumstance
indicative of any religious observance. No tem-
ple or idol, or even a tomb, was anywhere to be
seen in or near their villages. In Chiaa it was
otherwise ; every village, however small, had its
temple filled with jolly images, and was surround-
ed by numerous burying-places, built in the shape
of a horse-shoe, white-washed, and conspicuous
at a considerable distance.
In the course of our walk we fell in with a drove
of six fat bullocks, of a diminutive breed, but the
Coreans would not exchange them for our dollars,
buttons, fire-arms, or anything we had to offer them.
Dogs were the only other quadrupeds we saw ; but
amongst the trees we observed pigeons and hawks,
and on one occasion an eagle. In the fields also,
wherever we went, not only amongst these islands,
but in China and elsewhere, we invariably met
with om- old and familiar friend the common black
crow, a bird which, as far as I have observed, is
equally at home in all parts of the globe.
No persuasion could induce any of those sulky
COREA. Ill
natives to take their brealvfast with us on board.
As an expedition in the boats Iiad been projected
for this morning, we washed, if possible, to have
the companionship and assistance of the natives,
and we hoped to make it worth their while to at-
tend us. But they absolutely refused to become
our pilots, and they despised everything we pos-
sessed.
Before setting out, we determined, by means of
observations on an island near the anchorage, that
the latitude of this harbour is 34° 22'^ North, and
the longitude 126° 2'| East.
Our course in the boats lay amongst islands
grouped thickly together, all of them inhabited,
and very neatly cultivated, especially in the neigh-
bourhood of the numerous villages which every-
where lined their shores. The peak at which we
aimed, as usual, proved further off than we had
calculated upon, and cost us some hard climbing
before we reached the summit, though not more
than six hundred feet above the level of the
sea. The main land of Corea was just discernible
from this elevation, and all round us the sea was
studded in the most astonishing manner with the
islands so often mentioned. We set ourselves se-
parately the task of counting them. One person,
by enumerating those only which were evidently
separated from the rest, or round which the sea
could distinctly be traced, made the number a
hundred and twenty. Two others of our party, by
taking into account the probable number forming
each gi-oup, made a hundred and thirty-six, and
a hundred and seventy. These results merely
show the impossibility of speaking with precision on
the subject. When, however, it is considered that
112 CORKA.
cvon the lowoet number, a Imndred find twenty
islands, could be counted from one spot, and that
for upwards of a hundred and fifty miles we }iad
been sailing without intermission amongst islands
not less crowded than they were here, some idea
may be formed of this wonderful scene, the very
existence of which, I believe, was not even sus-
pected in Europe before this voyage.
On descending the hill, we found our dinner laid
out on one of the boat's sails for a table-cloth, spread
under the shade of a thick grove of oaks, growing by
the side of a cold spring of water gushing from the
mountain side. There was a village not fifty yards
off, which we explored before dining, in hopes of
finding some natives to join us. It was nearly
deserted, for only two of the inhabitants remained.
One of these was a very plain old lady, who took
no sort of notice of us, but allowed us to pass her
door, before which she was seated, without even
condescending to look up. The other was a middle-
aged man, industriously employed in the manufac-
ture of a straw sandal. He showed but one degree
more curiosity than his fair fellow-citizen, just
raising his head for an instant, and then resuming
his work with perfect composure. In order to rouse
this stoical and incurious Corean, we thrust a but-
ton into his hands, which he received without the
least show of gratitude, and put into a bag lying
near him, but still went on with his work. Another
button offered in exchange induced him to surren-
der his Iiandywork; and I mention the circumstance
as being the only iiistance which occurred during
our visit to Corea of an^^hing like traffic. We
made signs that we wished to examine his house, —
that is to say, we opened the door and walked in.
COREA. 113
But even this proceeding elicited no show of interest
in our phlegmatic shoemaker, who seizing another
wisp of straw, commenced a new pair of sandals,
as deliherately as if we had been merely a party
of his fellow-Coreans inspecting the dwelling, in-
stead of a company of European strangers, unlike
what he could ever have seen before, or was ever
likely to see again.
Diuing dinner, we detected the heads of five or
six of the natives peeping at us over the hill-top
behind us. We held up our bottles and glasses, and
tried to bring them down to us, but they refused
to stu- a single step nearer. The boat's crew, who
in the meantime had been rambling about the hills,
now joined the villagers, and speedily became very
good fi'iends with them. The present indeed was
not the only occasion on which our men found no
difficulty in conciliating the good- will of the na-
tives, when the officers, with ten times more eSoi%
could often make no successful advances. This
arose probably from the very different feelings and
objects with which we severally undertook the task
Our manners may have become in some degree con-
strained, by an over-anxiety to please, thus de-
feating the object in view by exciting distrust and
alarm. On the other hand, the sailors, by habit
unreflecting and inoffensive, never dreamed that
their unaffected franlmess could possibly be mis-
construed, and sometimes gained without effort the
very point we were unsuccessfully aiming at.
The Coreans on the hill, seeing that we took
no notice of them, continued creeping onwards
little by little till they appeared fully in view on
the slope of the bank. At last one of them, ac-
tuated apparently by a sudden impulse, staited on
K 2
114) COREA.
his feet, and strode boldly down to us. Withori.
pausinf^ an instant, lie walkod straight up to Cap
tain Maxwell and offered him his lighted pipe, li
return for this bold overture, the Commodore, ha-
ving first accepted the Corean's pipe, stood up and
filled him a bumper of wine. The native drained
the glass to the bottom, and holding it up to his
friends on the hill, roared out in ecstasy, Hota !
Hota ! His raptures instantly brought down the
whole party, who, unlike most of their country-
men we had met before, made no scruples about ac-
cepting our hospitality, and several bottles of wine
were soon emptied. There was now some reason
to hope that the difficult passage to a Corean's heart
had been discovered ; but at the very moment we
conceived ourselves established in their good graces,
one of them unluckily looked over his shoulder,
and beheld the sun just touching the horizon. In
a moment all his joviality and confidence were
dispersed ; and thinking it too good a hint to be lost,
he rose from the ground, patted us sharply on the
shoulder, and pointed to the setting sun ; then re-
clining his head on his shoulder, closed his eyes
as if asleep, and most unequivocally made signs
for us to retire to bed without delay. We endea-
voured, by drawing another cork, to protract our
stay a little longer, but they allowed us no peace
or quiet till all the things were ordered into the
boat, and preparations made for departing. The
whole party then accompanied us to the water's
edge, helped us rather roughly to embark, and ex-
pressed the most lively satisfaction when they were
fairly rid of us.
Tliis was the last we saw of the Coreans ; and
no one was sorry to quit a country where at every
COREA. 115
moment he was made sensible of being considered
an object of distrust, perhaps of ill will, to people
he was disposed to treat with confidence and kind-
ness. A future voyager would do wisely to cany
along with him a person skilled in the Chinese
\\Titten character, and acquainted with some of the
spoken languages of those seas. He ought like-
wise to have more leisure on his hands than we
had, since it is manifestly impossible, in a hurried
visit such as ours, effectually to overcome the ex-
treme distnist of strangers evinced by this most
unsociable of nations.
116 LOO-CIiOO.
CHAPTER III.
DEPARTURE FROM THE AMHERST ISLES— SULPHUR
ISLAND — LOO-CHOO.
About noon on the 10th of September, 1816,
we sailed from the Amherst Isles, as Captain Max-
well named this archipelago, in honour of the am-
bassador to China, and having a fresh breeze, we
made rapid progress to the Southward. In the
evening, we could barely distinguish the island of
Quelpaert, of which there has been published an
interesting account, containing the adventures of
some shipwrecked Dutch seamen who were de-
tained there for many years. At night the wind
Wew hard from the North, accompanied by a
mountainous swell.
Shortly after daybreak on the morning of tlie
13th of September, we came in sight of Sulphur
Island, a high solitary rock in the Japan Sea, witli
what Humboldt calls an unextinct volcano on its
North-western side. It had been our intention to
land, but the surf broke with so much violence on
every part of the shore, that this became impracti-
cable. On sailing round, we discovered the crater,
which emitted a white smoke strongly charged with
the fumes of sulphur. The cliffs in that neighbour-
hood were of a ])ale yellow colour streaked with
brown, and the rocks everywhere rugged and bar-
ren. The southern end of the island, wliich rose to a
LOO-CHOO. 117
considerable height, was of a deep red colour, witli
ail occasional spot of green. The strata, seem-
ingly of tuiFa, which lay in a direction nearly hori-
zontal, were intersected at one place by a lai'ge
dike of lava, which projected many fatlioms from
the face of the cliff like a wall, and formed a very
conspicuous object.
As the weather looked threatening, we relin-
quished all idea of examining this volcano, and
stood to the Southward till four o'clock, at whicli
hour high land in the South-west was reported to
be in sight from the mast-head. But there was
not sufficient daylight for us to venture nearer,
and we stood off to the North- westwai'd for the
evening.
At daylight on the 14th of September, although
the weather was still unsettled, we became anxious
to close "wath the land, and bore up in the direction
(fi the Great Loo-Choo Island. At eight o'clock
the Sugar-Loaf mountain described by Captain
Broughton came in sight, rising at the south end
of a small green island, into a high and remarkable
cone. We left tliis curious peak to the Eastward
of us, and continued steering to the Southward, ho-
ping to find some shelter under the lee of the large
island before night, or at all events to reach smooth
water, and perhaps good anchorage, till the weather
should become more moderate.
Whilst we were sailing along on this course at
a quick rate, breakers were suddenly discovered
close a-head of us, which the haziness of the wea-
ther, antl the agitation of the waves on all sides, liad
prevented om- discovering before. The brig was
instantly hauled to the wind, and all possible sail
made to weather the reef. The situation of tJiine-R
118 LOO-CHOO.
was now a very critical one, for the swell caused
by the recent northerly gale materially impeded
the vessel's way ; and we had the farther mor-
tification to discover that a strong lee-current
was drifting her gradually towards the rocks.
At one time we were so close to the surf that
from the mast-head we could look fairly down
upon the coral bank, which formed a complete and
well-defined circle, with a low island on its south-
ern boundary. The sea broke fm-iously all round
the shoal, but within the water was quite smooth,
and being only a foot or two in depth, the coral
rocks, of a bright green and yellow colour, shone
distinctly through. The tranquillity and beauty of
the interior circle offered a curious and striking
contrast to the violence of the waves which begirt
it, and at any other moment might have been con-
sidered a very pleasing sight ; but now, when ship-
wreck stared us in the face, and the angiy sound of
the breakers roared in our ears, we had no leisure
for such reflections. After being in this unpleasant
predicament for nearly a quarter of an hour, gi-a-
dually approaching nearer and neai'er to the rocks,
on which had we touched but for one instant the
poor Lyra must have been dashed to pieces, we
succeeded in weathering the western end of the
reef, but only by a few yards.
No sooner was this danger passed than there
came in sight, to our great joy, a fine clear pas-
sage several miles in width, through which the
ships proceeded with a flowing sheet to a situation
where the water was perfectly smooth. As the
Alceste kept always at the distance of half a league
astern of the Lyra, whose draught of water was
not nearly so great, she rounded the reef with less
LOO-CHOO. 119
difficulty than we had experienced, though not
without considerable danger; owing to the rapid
tide which flowed directly upon those terrific
ledges.
On the 15th, in the morning, it was aiTanged that
the brig should go inshore, to search for some se-
cure anchoring place, while the frigate remained
in the offing, in deep water. I accordingly pro-
ceeded on this service ; but after several hours'
examination of the coast could discover no secure
harbour for ships, or anything indeed beyond a
retreat for fishing-boats. During this survey the
boat sent along the shore fell in with several canoes ;
in one of which sat a native, who appeared to know
what we were hunting for, as he showed us a point
of land to the northward, and made signs that we
should sail round in that direction ; meanwhile two
other canoes came off to the Lyra, rowed by some
remarkably friendly people. One of them the in-
stant he came alongside handed up a jar of water,
and the other put on board a basket of boiled sweet
potatoes, without asking or seeming to wish for any
recompense. The manners of our new acquaint-
ances were veiy gentle and respectful ; they made
a rule of uncovering their heads when in our pre-
sence, bowed low whenever they spoke, and when
we gave them something to eat and drink made a
low salam to every person standing near, before
they tasted what was given them. At the same
moment another party visited the Alceste, who
left an equally fevourable impression ; for when a
rope was thrown to them from the ship, they at-
tached a fish to it, and then paddled away. AH
this seemed to promise well, and the contrast was
particularly grateful to us after being exposed so
120 LOO-CHOO.
lately to ttie cold and repulsive manners of tin
Corcaiis.
The day was spent in trying to beat round tli.;
point of land to the northward, but the tide and
wind were so strong against us that we made
little or no progress ; and when at length it be-
came dark, we found ourselves most awkwardly
situated. To the east and west, at tlie distance of a
few miles, lay islands, of which nothing more was
known, than that each was begirt with a fringe of
coral. To leeward there had been discovered, in
the course of the day, a circular reef, about half
a mile in diameter, just appearing above the sur-
face of the sea at low water, but quite concealed
at high tide, the most dangerous description oi
rock. To windward, nearly North, were seen tlu-
formidable shoals upon which the Lyra was near
wrecked on the Saturday before, and which ^
certainly had no wish to approach in the dar
The exact position of these numerous dangers beii -
unknown to us, and the set of the tides no less s.i.
we came to the resolution of dropping our anchors
for the night, although in eighty fathoms water. As
long as daylight lasted we held these difficulties in
om* situation compai'atively cheap — the shoals were
scattered about, and the channels between them
xvere wide and obvious : But no sooner was tlie
night closed in, and the imagination left to fill up
the picture, than the probabilities of accident seem-
ed nmltiplied a hundred fold, while the chances
of escape appeared to diminish in the same propor-
tion.
At daylight of the 16th of September we weig
I'd, and plied hard to windwaid all'the mornim:
but owing to the v/uid tmd tide being still divectlx
LOO-CHOO. 12]
contraiy, it was not until lialf past two o*ck>ck that
the ships passed the point to which tlie fisherman
had called our attention. No sooner was tliis ef-
fected, than we came in sight of an extensive town
on the banks of a secure harbour, crowded with ves-
sels. On steering towards this anchorage it be-
came necessary to sound every foot of the way
amongst the coral reefs, although upon this oc-
casion they happened to be tolerably well defined
by the surf breaking upon them. The circum-
stance, however, of the rocks being rendered vi-
sible, it ought to be remembered, is by no means a
frequent occurrence, and therefore cannot be de-
pended on for the general purposes of pilotage.
When the sea is smooth, these dangerous ledges
give no warning at all, and a ship on approaching
them ought therefore to have a boat a-head to sound
the passages before she ventures to enter herself.
, The instant the ships came to an anchor, they
were surrounded by canoes crowded with the na-
tives, who, accompanied by their children, eager-
ly flocked on board. The people, unlike any others
we had seen, wore handsome loose dresses, tied
with a belt round their waist ; and their hair, pull-
ed tightly up from the sides to the top of the
head, was formed into a knot, through wliich were
thrust two metal pins. In the course of an hour,
a native, evidently of higher rank than eur first vi-
.sitors, came on board to pay his respects ; and we
discovered, to our great satisfaction, that he could
understand the Chinese servant, who had been of
no use to us in Corea. As it appeared from this
person's account that there were other chiefs of
higher rank coming ofi^. Captain Maxwell declined
receiving his visit ; partly with a view to induce
VOL. I. L
122 Loo-ciioo.
the piindpfil people to come on board, and partVy
to maintain an appearance of dimity, a point, we
had always been told, of great importance in trans-
actions with the Chinese and their neighbours, who
were apt, it was said, to repay condescension with
presumption. And as these people were described
as being dependent on China, it was thought fair to
conclude there might be some similarity in their
manners and customs. It was argued, that at all
events, it would be easier at a future time to relax
from our dignity, and become imreserved and cor-
dial, if we found good reason, after having assumed
a stateliness of manner in the first instance, than it
would be to repress the encroachments of undue
freedom, if once encouraged by too great familiarity.
Such was the reasoning used at the time : but I
had some Im-king doubts, I confess, as to the sound-
ness of the doctrine, and the expediency of adopt-
ing this system of reserve. A more extensive ac-
quamtance with strange people and countries has
since satisfied me completely that the assumption
of an artificial cliaracter generally defeats its own
purpose ; as hauteur, where it does not naturally
exist, is apt to be fatal to consistency, and thus de-
stroys, or rather prevents the establishment of, con-
fidence. Judging fi'om experience alone, I would
say, that in treating with the natives of countries
little acquainted ^\ath our manners, nothing is so
important as the absence of every kind of disguise ;
because the smallest discovery of inconsistency on
our part is sure to be considered by them as dupli-
city, whether it be so or not, and tliis suspicion at
once puts confidential intercourse out of the ques-
tion.
Before the native who had come to >4sit us took
LOO-CHOO. 123
his leave, he requested to be informed of the reason
of oiir coming into this harbour. The interpreter
was instructed to acquaint him in reply, that the
ships had experienced very bad weather, had been
a long time at sea, and that in consequence the
largest ship had sprung a leak, and required va-
rious repairs which could only be done in a secure
harhoui*. Further explanations, he was told, would
be given to the superior chiefs when they came on
board. We were well prepared for these inqui-
ries, not only from the reception we had met with
at Corea, but fi-om the notorious jealousy of cha-
racter ascribed to all the nations of this quarter of
the globe. So far it was well, however, that the
Alceste did actually stand in need of some material
repairs ; and we could therefore assert with truth
that this was our chief object. To have assigned
curiosity, or a desire of gaining local information,
as our motive, to a people generally supposed wholly
unconscious of such feelings, would have been use-
less : and to have talked of opening any commercial
intercourse, would only have alarmed then- habitual
jealousy.
The canoes or boats which came off to us, were
mostly hollowed out of one piece of wood, carried
two sails each, and were moved, when not under
sail, with considerable velocity, by two or more
paddles, assisted by one oar over the stem, serving,
as in China, the double purpose of a skull and a
rudder. Each person in the canoe sat on a sepa-
rate low seat or stool, made of rattans, with bam-
boo legs. As the day closed, fishing canoes came
in great numbers from the offing, most of which
called alongside the ships on their way to the
town. Once or twi^^e these people very good-na-
124) LOO-cHao.
turcdly pulled up our lines and baited the hooks,
certainly a most disinterested proceeding on the
part of a fisherman.
Meanwhile the beach, the tops of the sand-
banks, and all the cliifs abreast of the ships, were
covered with people staring with astonishment at
the novel sight which we presented. The crowd
was most dense and conspicuous on two projecting
piers or breakwaters forming the entrance to the
harbour, where the variety of brilliant coloured
dresses, all fluttering with the fresh sea-breeze, and
shining in the setting sun, made a very lively
exhibition. In the dusk of the evening Captain
Maxwell and I rowed completely round the bay,
aifd carefully examined the anchorage, which pro-
ved tolerably safe, thoiigh not entirely clear of
rocks. An officer was dispatched at the same time
in one of the cutters to inspect the inn^r harbour,
but ])efore he had gone far it was found to be
much too shallow even for the brig.
On returning to the Lyra, I learned that Mr
Clifford had been entertaining several good-hu-
moured natives, who had paid him a visit during
my absence. This gentleman, with laudable in-
dustry, had already commenced a vocabulaiy of the
Loo-choo language, and as the natives readily com-
prehended his desire to know their words for va-
rious things, he succeeded in collecting a consider-
able number. Among these the name for tobacco
was exactly the same as our own ; and perhaps there
is nothing which is expressed by the same word in
so many different languages as this ])lant ; the
name, in fact, being nearly co-extensive with its
use.
On the 17th of September, after breakfast, three
LOO-CHOO. 125
chiefs came on boaid the Alceste. They were en-
tertained for some time by the officers, while
Captain Maxwell was preparing to receive them ;
and when all was ready, a message was formally
sent to acquaint them, that the Ta-yin was desi-
rous of an interview. This term for a person of
rank, literally " great man," though a pure Chi-
nese expression, was always used by these people
in speaking of Captain Maxwell. They were con-
ducted to the cabin by the first lieutenant, Mr
Hickman, where they were received by the Com-
modore in due form. Probably all this state and
ceremony embarrassed our worthy guests a little,
as they at first objected to sitting down, mald^^g
at the same time many low obeisances, by stoop-
ing the body and raising their hands clasped
together to their face^s. These scruples being at
length overcome, the first or principal chief took
his place on Captain Maxwell's left hand; the next
sat on my left, and a third, still lower in rank,
placed liimself beyond the second. This diffi-
cult operation accomplished, and all the party fair-
ly established, a long and unsatisfactoiy pause en-
sued. The chiefs sat stock-still and respectfully
silent, till Captain Maxwell, finding that it was ex-
pected of him to commence the conversation, ex-
plained through the interpreter, that the ships un-
der his command belonged to the King of Eng-
land ; and bad gone to China with an Ambassa-
dor, now probably at Pekin ; that on then return
towards Canton, the ships had experienced bad
weather, the effects of which obliged them to put
in here to refit, as well as to procure supplies of
fresh provisions, water, and vegetables.
A considerable interval elapsed before anv reply
L 2
126 LOO-CHOO.
was made ; when, after consulting with one another
for about five minutes, they expressed their will-
in^ess to assist us, but said this harbour was
much too shallow for large eliips, and therefore
recommended our proceeding to another port call-
ed Oonting, which they described as being secure
and commodious, and only a few hours sail from
this anchorage. They offered to furnish pilots to
conduct us thither ; but Captain Maxwell, who was
too old a sailor to relinquish so excellent an anchor-
age as the present, unless certain of finding a bet-
ter, proposed to them that the Lyra should be sent
to examine and report upon the harbour alluded to.
The chiefs deliberated together for a long time upon
this proposal ; and said at last that they could not
undertake to send pilots to the little ship, without
first consulting some great man on shore. This
expression roused our cmiosity to know who this
great personage could be, but they evaded our in-
quiries with the greatest adroitness. Captain Max-
well then asked where the king of the island resi-
ded, intimating his intention of going to court
without loss of time. To this proposal they strong-
ly objected, declaring it not only inexpedient, but
impossible, since his majesty lived a thousand miles
off. Captain Maxwell replied, that distance was
no object to him ; upon wliich they laughed, and
changed the conversation to something else. As
we knew the island to be only about sixty miles
long, this assertion about the distance of the court
was obviously a mere flourish, and, indeed, in the
next minute, they undertook to get an answer from
the same quarter about the pilots in a few hours.
As we liad been led to hope, from the frankness
and kindness with which these people had received
LOO-CHOO. 127
us at first, that no restraint would be imposed upon
us, we were much disappointed to observe, when-
ever we spoke of landing, or put any questions about
the king, the chiefs became, or aift'ected to become,
strangely agitated, always replying in a very unsa-
tisfactory and mysterious maimer. We were fain
to console ourselves, however, with the supposi-
tion, that upon fuither acquaintance this distrust
nnd apprehension would wear off.
The official business of the interview over, the
chiefs were invited to walk round the cabin, an indul-
gence which tliey accepted with manifest satisfac-
tion. During the previous conference they had
presented a ceremonious and solemn gravity, suit-
ed, as they probably thought, to the occasion, and
although surrounded by many new and curious
objects, they never once allowed their eyes to stray,
or expressed the slightest curiosity to examine
what was near them. Now the case was changed ;
and their manners being no longer stiiF and formal,
they looked at the various things which were
shown them with great attention and interest,
taking notice, in particular, of the globes, books,
and min'ors. The whole deportment of these peo-
ple was remarkably gentle and unassuming. They
were also veiy shrewd and observant, and pos-
sessed no small share of curiosity ; but they were
always modest and unobtrusive, and required some
encouragement to bring them forward. They ap-
peared to us, at this interview, to be exercising a
good deal of self-denial, possibly dreading that a
hasty show of curiosity might be troublesome. The
dress of these interesting persons was singularly
graceful and picturesque : it consisted of a loose
flowing robe folded over the breast, so as to leave
128 LOO-CHOO.
the neck bare ; but fastened round the middle by ;.
])road ricli belt or g^irdle of embroidered Hilk, near-
ly liid by the overlapping folds of the drapery. Th(;
sleeves were so wide that when the arms were cross-
ed in front, the lower part reached nearly to the
knees. Each of them wore on his head a yellow cy-
lindrical cap, and on his feet a neatly-plaited straw
sandal, laced over a short cotton boot or stockine.
Two of the chiefs were dressed in light-coloui'ed yel-
low robes, the others in dark blue, streaked with
white, all made of cotton. Their caps or turbans
were flat at the top, and appeared to be formed by
winding a broad band diagonally round a frame in
such a manner, that at each turn a small portion of
the last fold should be visible above in front, and be-
low at the hinder part. The sandals were bound to
the feet by a stiff straw band passing over the instep,
and connected with the fore part of the sole by a
slender string drawn between the gi'eat toe and the
one next to it, the stocking being oddly enough
contrived with a division like the finger of a glove,
to receive the gi'eat toe. Each chief earned a
fan either in his hand or thrust into the girdle,
together with a short tobacco-pipe and pouch, in-
closed in a small bag dangling at his waist. It
seemed to be the fashion of the country not to cut
the beard, in the nice arrangement of which they
appeared to take particular pride : that of the se-
nior chief was nearly a foot long, while those of
the two others, though much shorter, were e\^dent-
ly cherished with gi'eat care.
When our visitors had satisfied themselves with
looking over the cabin, they returned to the shore,
with a promise of returning in the evening, as soon
iwOO-CHOo. 129
as the answer about the pilots Bhoukl be received
from tlie great man.
During the whole of tliis day the space between
the ships and the shore was covered with canoes,
each containing from eight to ten persons ; and
the scene, as may be conceived, was exceedingly
lively. As few of the parties who came to visit
the ships remained long on board, a string of
canoes was constantly passing backwards and for-
wards, and the numbers which came in this way
must have been very considerable. The natives
expressed themselves liighly gTatified wdth being
allowed to rove wherever they pleased over the
ships, a licence in no instance abused. The man-
ners of our new acquaintances, even of tlie very
lowest class, stnick us as being particularly good ;
theii* curiosity was great, but it never made them
rude, like the ungracious Coreans. Their language
which was not unmusical in its sound, we found,
in most cases, easy of pronunciation. Of music
too they had some knowledge, as we discovered
in the com-se of this evening : one of the canoes,
about an horn- after sun-set, dropped under the
stem of the Lyra, and while lying there the crew
sung several veiy sweet and plaintive songs. We
tried in vain to catch the words, and unfortunate-
ly none of us had sufficient skill to note down the
air. Several of the natives we obsei'ved making
drawings of the sliips, while others were busily
taldng notes ; but they hastily concealed then' work
when detected.
In consequence, I suppose, of what had been said
durmg the inter\dew with the chiefs the evening be-
fore, of our being in want of repairs, a party of native
shi|)wrights and caulkers was sent on boainl the Al-
130 LOO-CHOO.
cestc tills morning ; but their tools, though extreme- |
ly neat, and not unlike ours in construction, from
beini( very diminutive, were quite unsuited to the (
rough species of work required. |
It would be tedious to describe the variety of I
colour and of pattern in the dresses of the peo- t
pie. Many wore printed cottons evidently stamp- [
ed by blocks, but some of the patterns were so irre- j
gular that they must have been drawn by the hand, j
Blue, in all its shades, was the predominant colour, ' ;
a remark which will apply, more or less, to every |
eastern country. Many of these patterns bore no
inconsiderable resemblance to some of the ordinary
tartans of Scotland. The children in general were
dressed in more gaudy colours than their seniors ;
but we could not learn what dresses the women
used, not a single female having yet made her ap-
pearance. Every man even of the lowest class
buckled round his waist one of the girdles before
described, which was always of a different colour
fi'om the other parts of the dress ; and most of
them were ornamented with flowers WTought in silk,
and sometimes with gold and silver threads.
Loose flowing drapery of this description is
naturally so gi-aceful, that the appearance even
of the poorest boatmen had something in it very
pleasing and picturesque. Their hair, which was
invai-iably of a glossy jet black, being coDected at
the top of the head fiom all sides, and there
formed into a handsome knot, served effectually
to cover their shaven crowns. Through this bow
or bunch of iiair two large polished silver or brass
pins were tlmist crosswise. The top of one of
those oi-naments was fashioned into the shape of a
six-leaved flower ; and the whole fonned a very be-
LOO-CHOO. 131
coming head-dress. Their beards and mustachios,
wliich were universally allowed to grow, were kept
neat and smooth, and always nicely trimmed.
In stature the people of Loo-Choo are rather
low, but well formed. Their style of walking is
slow, and somewhat stately, suiting very well
with the flowing drapery which they throw round
them. Their colour is not good, being mostly of a
deep copper ; but the expression of their coun-
tenance is peculiarly sweet and intelligent. Their
eyes, which are black, have a remarkably placid
expression ; and theii* teeth are regular and beau-
tifully white. In general deportment they are mo-
dest, somewhat timid, and always respectful ; and
it is impossible not to feel kindly towards them.
Two of the chiefs who had visited us in the
morning, and whose names we discovered to be
Ookooma and Jeema, came on board again about
half past five in the evening, and staid an hour.
No answer had yet been received, they said, from
the Great Man, and therefore pilots could not be
sent, as they had promised, to the little ship.
They were accompanied by another chief, whom
we suspected to be a Chinese, not only from his
looks, but from his appearing to understand the
interpreter much better than any of his compani-
ons had done : his formal and suspicious behaviour
on one or two occasions pleased us little. Their
object in coming was to intimate that a present
of live stock and vegetables had been sent to
the ships. Advantage was taken of the occasion
to signify our intention of landing next day ; and
when, as we liad expected, they objected to our
proposal, the propriety of our waiting upon the
Great Man was stated as our reason. This argu*
132 T,oo-cnoo.
raent tlioy attempted to meet, by p^avely assortincr
that no pjTson at all answering to our description
resided Iiere ; a most unceremonious retraction ot
their former assertions. We then eaid, it was ;it
least indispensable that we should return the many
obliging visits they themselves had paid us. But
they were determined to debate eveiy point, and
replied, that they were merely poor insignificant
men, far inferior in rank to us, and not in the
least degree entitled to any such honour as we
proposed to pay them ; adding, that we should be
degrading ourselves by such imusual and unheard-
of condescension. Captain Maxwell, amused with
their ingenuity, but unwilling to give up the point,
next told them that liis health had been impaired
by the same causes wliich had weakened his shi]>,
and that he required exercise on shore to re-esta-
blish his strength. Upon bearing this, oui- new n< -
quaintance, the chief who was mistaken for a Chi-
nese, and who seemed more earnestly bent against
our landing than any of liis companions, instantly
offered to send a physician on board who was skil-
ful in such cases. Captain Maxwell laughed, and
thanked him for his obliging attention, but said
his own doctor had already strongly recommended
a ride as the most lilvely thing to do him good.
The natives now perceived that Captain Maxwell
was merely jesting with them ; for when he held
out his brawny arm, and declared that he was
as thin as a lath, they all laughed very heartily, and
the discourse, by mutual consent, was changed to
something else.
We found it always a great affair in our inter-
course with the natives, to get them faiily to laugh
along with us. There is something so infectious ui
LOO-CHOO. 133
hearty good humour that we often find an acci-
dental joke coming from either side, extend its in-
fluence to the whole party, and accomplish in a mo-
ment the object on which much gi'ave discussion has
been expended to no purpose. But the joke did not
succeed in this instance to the full extent of om-
wishes ; for every proposal to land, and indeed every
allusion to the shore, was industriously put aside.
As it was our wish, however, to gain their good
will gradually, the disagreeable matter was drop-
ped for the present. Before the cliiefs left the ca-
bin. Captain Maxwell pointed to their pipes, and
gave them to understand, through the interpreter,
that he wished them to smoke in his cabin when-
ever they felt disposed to do so ; a permission
for which they expressed much gratitude. They
would on no account begin, however, tdl we had
shown the example, by smoking with pipes pre-
pared by themselves. In climates where this prac-
tice is the common fashion, a single whiff of to-
bacco-smoke often blows away much misunder-
standing and ill-will. In all countries, indeed, to-
bacco in one shape or another is a very sociable lux-
my ; much has been done by the friendly offer of
a pinch of snuff; and I have seen the good- will of
a whole Spanish village secured by a few bunches
of tobacco leaves. After smoking and chatting,
therefore, for some time, the chiefs took leave for
the night, both parties feeling on much more friend-
ly terms than before.
On the 18th of September, Captairi Maxwell
sent to me in tlie course of the morning, to say
he wished me to land along with him on a pro-
montory at some distance from the town, in or-
der to observe the sun's meridian altitude with
VOL. I. M
134 LOO-CHOO.
an artificial horizon. But just as I was setting
out to accompany liim, I was stopped by the
arrival of two very well-dressed natives, who had
boarded us with such dispatch that they were
half-way down the cabin-ladder before I knew of
their approach. One of them, I found, had come
to superintend the measurement of the Lyra, for
which pui-pose his assistant had brousrht with him
two long black cords, and several rods of different
lengths and sizes. As soon as permission was given,
they proceeded to measure and record in their books
the length and breadth of the deck, the depth of
hold, and in short every dimension of the brig.
The other native who accompanied the surveyor,
and seemed of an inferior rank to liis companion,
had come on board to explain why some poultry,
only now sent, had not reached us the evening
before along with the other presents. The pre-
sents alluded to consisted of a good fat bullock,
two hogs, two goats, a dozen and a half of fowls,
some bundles of candles, two or tlu-ee piles of
wood, and about fifty jars of water, which had been
sent to the Lyra, at the same time wdth about four
times as many of the same articles to the Alceste.
I requested them to sit down, and they were
so well satisfied Avith the Constantia wine and
cherry brandy which was given them, that they
remained longer than I had calculated upon ; and
in consequence of the delay I did not reach the
shore till the period for obsei-ving the sun had
gone by.
Captain Maxwell was on the beach in conver-
sation with Ookooma and several of the chiefs,
surrounded by an immense crowd of the natives,
who had left the town on seeing the boats row
LOO-CHOO. 135
to the shore, and hastened to this spot, out of
curiosity to watch our proceedings. The bustle
and crowding- soon became so gi-eat, that Ookoo-
nia, who appeared to possess considerable autho-
rity, ordered the whole assembly, chiefs not ex-
cepted, to sit down in a circle on the grass,
leaving sufficient room for us to place the instru-
ments.
Astonishment at our operations was strongly
expressed in every countenance ; and, indeed, the
brilliant appearance of the apparatus, and the mys-
terious nature of our behaviour, may well have
seemed to such people somewhat magical. In the
first place, the quicksilver used to form a horizon-
tal reflecting surface, and appearing like melted
metal, was poured into a trough, in a fine stream,
from a wooden bottle ; whilst it was running out,
the people repeated in an under tone, " Yi, yi,
yi !" imitating, perhaps, the peculiar sound which
mercury makes when poured from one vessel to
another ; but they all remained silent as soon
as the glass roof was placed over this tremulous
mirror to shelter it from the wind. The circular
instrument and sextant being then taken from their
cases and fixed on stands, it was communicated
to the people that they must not move or speak ;
they accordingly looked on in profound silence,
and remained perfectly still, while we were taking
the sun's altitude. As the time had passed for the
meridian observation, the instruments were set up
merely to amuse the natives by allowing them to
look at the two images of the sun, seen through
the telescope. For about a minute no one woidd
come fonvard ; at length Ookooma, being the high-
est in rank, ventured, evidently with some little
136 LOO-CHOO.
appreliension, to place liimself at t)ie instrument.
Being quite unprepared, he started back in uttei
astonibJanent when the two brilliant suns met ]m
eye, as if frightened at having unconsciously be-
held something supernatural. The other chiefs in
their tuni looked through the telescope, followed
by several old men, who stepped forward from
the crowd and asked permission to take a peep.
Some of them testified their surprise by a sud-
den exclamation ; others were so perfectly un-
moved by what they saw, that we could form no
guess what they thought ; while some held up their
hands, shook their heads mysteriously, and after
looking again and again at the object of their won-
der, seemed to consider the whole matter as one to-
tally beyond the reach of ordinary comprehension .
When each of the persons of consequence present
had satisfied himself, and there was no longer any
necessity for the crowd being seated, they were al-
lowed to close round, and watch us wliile piitting
up the instiTunents. A few of them begged to
examine the telescopes more particularly, and some
little boys held out their hands for a chop of quick-
silver, with which they scampered off quite delight-
ed.
During this time we were about fifty yards from
the bottom of a cliff, on the brow of which a group
of women, with baskets on their heads, had takfi.
their station. The distance from the spot was p
fortunately too great for their features to be di
tinguished, or even for their dress to be seen di
tinctly. Their robes or gowns appeared, kowevc.,
not unlilvc those worn by the men, but rather
shorter, and without the embroidered gudle round
the waist.
P LOO-CHOO. 137
The rocks at this part of tlie coast rise iii per-
pendicular rugged cliffs of limestone, with a num-
ber of mde square excavations, which at first sight
appear to have been worn by the elements, but on
farther examination show evident traces of art. Most
of these caves were closed up by a wall of loose
stones ; and in one, the mouth of which happened
to be open, several human bones were discovered
lying amongst the sand. On removing some stones
from another of the caves, a vase of an elegant
shape was observed standing nearly in the centre.
The people gave us to understand that these mTis
contained the remains of the dead. But we could
not ascertain distinctly whether the whole body,
or merely the ashes, were preserved in this careful
manner. Neither the chiefs nor the populace made
any objection to oui' inspecting the caves, though
tliey certainly were not much pleased with our pro-
ce'edings. No notice was taken of what Captain
Maxwell did, whom they considered privileged to
do what he liked ; but Mr Clifford, who had re-
mained below on the beach, collecting Loo-Choo
words for his vocabulary from some intelligent na-
tives, was strongly recommended by Ookooma to
go back to the boat. Instead of doing so, how-
ever, he turned about, and walked without further
opposition to the cave which we were examining,
and as soon as he joined Captain Maxwell's party
they ceased to importune him. Whilst we were
thus employed, a parcel of little boys, who had ob-
served us pulling flowers and plants, and sometimes
breaking specimens of the rocks, ran about making
botanical and geological collections, in playful imi-
tation of ours, and after presenting to us what they
had heaped together, with giave politeness, laugh-
M 2
138 i.oo-CHOo.
oA in our fticos, and made their escape, with an arch
expression of ridicule at our idle curiosity.
Instead of going directly off to the ships, afti'
we had quitted the beach, we skirted along tli
outer edge of the coral, which everywhere fringes
the shore, and by this means obtained a near view
of a Rtone bridge, of one semicircular arch, con-
necting two parts of the tovm. On the south side
of tliis bridge we passed a space of about four
acres in extent, probably set apart as a burying-
ground of Napakiang, the name, as we leanied to-
day, of this city. Within the enclosure we obser-
ved some buildings, which from being shaped like
a horse-shoe, and similar to what we had noticed
eveiywhere on the coast of China, we knew to be
tombs. All of these were, as usual, cai'efully white-
washed and kept in good repair. Most of the other
edifices, also conjectured to be tombs, Avere in the
form of small square houses, with low pyi-amidal
roofs, some covered with red tiles, and others with
thatch, but all of them without windows. The
natives expressed so much uneasiness when we
proposed to land for the purpose of examining these
places more minutely, that the idea was relin-
quished.
The coast at Napakiang is of fawn-coloured, gra-
nulated limestone, the base of the cliffs appearing
to have been scooped out by the action of the sea.
As this excavation is at least twenty feet higher
than the sea can possibly have reached, situated as
the land now is, there is at first sight some diffi-
culty in assigning the sea as the cause of the ex-
cavations. The roof is exactly horizontal for a
great extent, and its appearance, in every respect,
suggests that it lias been formed by the dashini
LOO-CHOO. 139
of the waves, and that the tide, which is now
many perpendicular feet below, had once flowed
into these caverns. To suppose that the sea has
retii-ed here, and not elsewhere, is obviously im-
possible : the only theory, therefore, which will
explain the phenomenon, is to imagine a general
elevation of this part of the coast by the action of
an expansive force from beneath.
The scenery of Loo-Choo, which Ues in the la-
titude of 26° N., though not quite so rich, is even
more pleasing to the eye than in coimtries neai'er
the equator, because the vegetation is not so profuse-
ly luxuriant as to overload the pictme with mere
foliage, often to the exclusion of eveiything else.
Here, also, there is much vaiiety ; and the groves
of pine-trees give some parts of the island quite a
European character ; while the style of the land-
scape is still, upon the whole, decidedly tropical.
' On the 19th of September, as no answer had yet
come from the great man who was spoken of some
days before, we began to apprehend that these cau-
tious people intended to exclude us from their
comitiy altogether. We tried in vain to discover
whether the king, as we sti'ongly suspecteil, v/as
at tliis place, or, as they said, at a hundred or a
thousand miles off; but they eluded all om* inqui-
ries, and when they saw us upon a wrong scent,
very dexterously kept us in the Ime we had talien
up. On such occasions, a traveller's busy fancy of-
ten misleads him ; the least hint of a new fact sends
liis speculations abroad, and his ready journal soon
becomes the receptacle of many an unsubstantial
theory, which he has seldom the means of verify-
ing or disproving afterwards. So tijat, with the
most honest intentions, he is perpetually liable to
become the unconscious recorder of error.
140 LOO-CHOO.
By means of a telescope, a lai'ge building wa
distinctly made out on a rising gi-ound, three o
four miles from the harbour of Napakiang, in a
North-eastern direction, which was rendered still
more conspicuous by two flag-staflfs erected near it.
We concluded immediately that this could be no
other than the palace mentioned in an old Chinese
account of Loo-Choo, quoted by Pere Gaubil, a
very amusing Jesuit, who wiites in the Lettrcs
Edifiantes et Curieuses, vol. XXIII. But as th<;
natives always refused to give any information
about this building, we remain ignorant of its na-
tUl'B.
As often as the natives came on board, whatever
their business might be, if tolerably well dressed,
they were always shown to the cabin, and treated
with sweet wine and cakes. In the course of con-
versation, they generally contributed many new
words to Mr Clifford's vocabulary ; and willingly
lent their assistance as- soon as the object was ex-
plained, taking great pains also to teach us the true
pronunciation of each word. It happened at Loo-
Choo, however, as in other quarters of the globe,
that a stupid fellow would now and then turn up ;
and one morning, accordingly, a pompous grave
sort of person came to us on some errand or other,
and as usual, he was handed to the cabin, where he
was well plied with Constantia, while Mr Clifford,
who devoted himself entirely to the acquisition of
the language, set about extracting new words from
his guest. In pursuit of tliis purpose, he prevailed
on the stranger to taste first something sour, then
something sweet, and so on, that he might leam the
Loo-Choo words for these adjectives. The poor
man, who did not in the least comprehend what
was wanted, not a little amazed, sat very solemnly
LOO-CHOO. 141
eating what was given him, until a morsel of quas-
sia was put into liis mouth, in order to discover the
native word for bitter. Tlie instant lie tasted tliis
horrible drug, he imagined we meant to poison him,
and jumping on his feet, with a look of horror hur-
ried on deck, scrambled as fast as he could over the
gangway into his boat, which he instantly pushed
off, and never stopped or looked back until he
reached the shore.
It blew very hai'd all the morning, and there
was, in consequence, little intercourse with the
shore ; but towards sunset, when the wind as usual
moderated, Ookooma, Jeema, and four other chiefs,
came on board the Alceste, bringing us a present
of a bullock, two hogs, several goats, ajid some bas-
kets of vegetables. We learned the name of one
of the principal chiefs to be Sliayoon ; he was the
most clever of the paity, and generally took the lead
in all important discussions. His look was quick
and penetrating, and there was more determination
in liis manner than in that of any of his com.pa-
nions. These chiefs v/ere extremely punctilious,
on occasions of ceremony, to observe the order of
precedence, and no one ever sat dowii v/hilst his
superior was standing. When any subject was dis-
cussed, one at a time rose to speak, but not in the
order of rank ; they never intemipted one another,
nor betrayed the least impatience to speak whilst
we were addressing them, however decidedly we
might differ in opinion : and during our whole stay
on the island, I do not recollect one instance in
which theii' behaviour was not regulated by the
most perfect good breeding. '
Jufit as this day's conference was commencing,
the weather again began to look so stormy, that I
149 LOO-CHOO.
felt uneasy at being away from my own ship, and
accordingly went on board the Lyra, to prepare for
a gale, and by this means lost an interesting confer-
ence which followed with the chiefs. I learned
fi-om Captain Maxwell afterwards, that he had
taken this occasion to remonstrate with them on
their inconsistency, and pretended difficulty of
getting answers from the court. He begged them
to recollect, that it was not treating the King of
England with due respect, to deny his officers per-
mission to walk on shore, and reminded them of
a solemn promise to send pilots, none of whom had
come ; and that many other assurances had in like
manner been neglected. He then desired the in-
terpreter to say, how much he was displeased with
their telling him so many different stories, all of
which could not be true ; and, lastly, m-ged them
strongly to tell him the truth in future, and no
longer to attempt deceiving him by such unwor-
thy artifices. When Captain Maxwell had end-
ed this speech, the chiefs obliged the interpreter to
repeat over the different parts of it five or six times,
and as soon as they understood it, they held a
council of war amongst themselves for at least half
an hour. When this was over, they formally assu-
red Captain Maxwell that a repl/ to their commu-
nications to government would certainly reach him
next day.
In the course of these long and grave delibe-
rations about trifles, we were often reminded of
the discussions in Gulliver's Travels, where the
people of Lilliput were about as much pei-plexed
what to do with their Man Mountain, as the inno-
cent and almost as helpless inhabitants of Loo-
Choo were how to dispose of us. Tlieir means of
LOO-CHOO. 143
resistance, had we chosen to use force, were not
much ^eater. Our study, however, was to imi-
tate the policy of the veracious traveller alluded
to, and not to give offence merely because we were
strong ; hut, if possible, to gain our object by pa-
tience and gentleness. Yet as the daily supplies
received by the ships had by this time amounted
to a considerable quantity, a bag of dollars was of-
fered to the chiefs, who were urged to take pay-
ment to any extent they chose for the provisions
they had sent on board. As this offer, which had
been made more than once before, was still de-
clined, Captain Maxwell gave them to understand,
that he considered it not fitting for him, while ser-
ving the English government, to receive presents
to such an extent from any private persons what-
ever. When this was interpreted to the chiefs,
they hastened to assure him, that all the stock and
other tilings had been sent on board by the ex-
press order of the Loo-Choo government, on their
being informed that the king of another country's
ships had anived ; and this being the case, no pay-
ment, they said, could possibly be taken. With
this explicit assm-ance Captain Maxwell was com-
pelled to remain satisfied. Their Avish in this mat-
ter, and indeed in every other instance, eAidently
was, to prevent our opening any sort of communi-
cation, direct or indirect, with the government. At
fiist we had hopes of being able to overcome these
jealousies and scruples, but the natives appeared
so persevering, that we began seriously to appre-
hend they would succeed in keeping us altogethei"
at bay, notwithstanding every pacific effort on our
part to the contrary. Meanwhile, teazing as all
this was, Cai)tain Maxwell was resolved that no
144 Loo-cHoo.
motive of curiosity sliould tempt him to infringe in
the least degree on customs wfiich these people
considered sacred. Li this respect liis forbearance
and self-denial were beyond all praise, and only
excelled by his invincible good humour, qualities
useful enough at all times, but of infinite import-
ance to an officer engaged on such a service as
tlie present. But there were not wanting persons
of oiu" number, who at the time disapproved of
these gentle and patient measures, though there can
be no doubt now, that to their influence alone we
eventually owed all oui* familiarity with this amii
able but timorous people. If a favourable impres-
sion of our countiy, therefore, be left in this remote
island, it is entirely due to the discretion and skill
with which our early intercourse was managed by
Captain Maxwell.
The change which had taken place in the wea-
ther, showed us that the chiefs put on different
dresses according to the season of the year. This
day being cold, aiid the sky threatening rain, they
all came on board with a sort of cloak or great-
coat, made of thick blue woollen cloth, buttoned
in front, tighter than the ordinary dress over which
it was worn. It was only in fine weather, and on
particular occasions of ceremony, that they wore
the band turban formerly descril)ed, and called by
them " hatchee matchee ;" at all other times their
heads were left uncovered, and the hair dressed in
a top knot, wnth pins tlmist into it, exactly in the
manner practised by the rest of the people.
During the night preceding the 20th of Septem-
ber, the mercury in the barometer fell from 29.
72. to 29. 51., a considerable depression for that
latitude. As the sun wont down, the sky assu-
i
LOO-CHOO. 145
med a yellow appearance, which, reflected from the
sea, cast a dismal and lurid appearance over every-
thing. We calculated upon experiencing a severe
tempest, more especially, it was thought, as the
equinox was near, a period, in the opmion of some
seamen, peculiarly liable to storms. In the end it
blew a hard gale of wind, but as our anchorage was
sheltered by the land, it was hai'dly felt, though at
sea it must have been unpleasant, and to a vessel
under weigh amongst the islands very dangerous.
Tlu-ee or four boats came i-ound the South-west
point of land early in the morning j the crews of
which were evidently strangers, and were supposed
to have come from the other side of the island, as
they appeared not to have seen the ships before.
One of these people was greatly delighted 'witli a
looking-glass which was shown him ; after gazing
intently on it for some time, lie held it up, and
calling eagerly to his companions about him, show-
ed them its wonderful effects. Having repeated
this display to his fellow-boatmen, he held it oppo-
site to his own face for four or five minutes with-
out altering his countenance in the smallest degree.
At length he smiled, and immediately nodded as-
sent to the reflected image in the glass, pleased, no
doubt, with seeing so correct an expression of what
was passing in his ovtm mind at the moment. He
seemed conscious, however, that it was merely a
reflection of his own coimtenance, as he pointed se-
veral times from the image to himself. Yet not-
withstanding this conviction, he could not altoge-
ther restrain his curiosity, and actually looked be-
hind the mirror after the manner of a monkey, but
instantly turned it round again, as if ashamed of
having done so, and handed it to his companions.
VOL. I. N ^'
14.G Loo-ciioo.
While the glass was under inspection, they mad'
U9 several long speeches, in which they frequent
ly repeated the word Ka-gxing, the Loo-Choo namf;
for mirror ; hut we inferred from liis behaviour, that
lie loiew it only by name. It is natural enough
that a cat or a monJiey should be puzzled with a
looking-glass, but we can scarcely suppose any ra-
tional creature, especially one whose occupation
lies on the water, not to be familiar with reflected
images. The native in question, however, may
never before have seen an artificial surface of this
kind ; and his delight is easily accounted for with-
out supposing, as some of our party did, that he
actually believed another person was behind the
glass. One of these people wished to sell both his
Jeewas, or head ornaments, for a wine-glass ; some
time afterwards one of his fellow-boatmen spied a
bottle, and, wonder-struck with the strange sight,
wanted to make a similar exchange ; but these bar-
gains being quite out of proportion, the bottles and
glass on which they set so much value were given
them : and some truiketa being presented to each
man in the boat, they paddled away well satisfied
with their visit.
The canoes, which were made of pine-trees hol-
lowed out, averaged from twelve to twenty feet in
length; and about four in width : their anchor was
rudely fashioned out of two crooked brandies, fas-
tened back to back, and loaded with stones.
As no answer came this moraing from theii*
mysterious, invisible great man. Captain Maxwell
removed the ships into a more secure spot at the
North-east comer of the bay. The first anchorage
had been much too close to an ugly reef of coral
rocks, besides being exposed to the South-west
LOO-CHOO. 147
winds. The biitli we now shifted to, though to all
appearance quite as open to the sea, was in fact shel-
tered by a chain of rocks lying under water, at the
distance of lialf a mile outside of the ships to the
westward. By this change, the LyTa was brought
close to tlie bridge before spoken of, and neaily
abreast of the eastern end of the town, not quite a
quarter of a mile from the shore. A stiict watch
was kept by the natives, night and day, on all parts
of the beach, so that a boat could not leave the
ships T^dthout being instantly observed. This was
soon discovered by the officers sent to sound and
examine the new anchorage ; for whenever tiiey
approached the shore, a crowd of natives, headed
by one or other of the chiefs, soon hurried to the
spot, and made the most anxious signs for them
to keep farther off.
On the 21st of September there appeared to
be some embargo laid upon the canoes, as not a
single one came near the L)Ta during the whole
morning, and only one went on board the Alceste.
It was found necessary, on examining the groimd
more carefully, to move the frigate still farther in-
shore, to a secm-e nook, or cove, formed by the meet-
ing of two ledges of coral, the brilliant colours of
which were distinctly seen tlirougli the water when
the sun shone upon them. For this pui-pose, four
or five hawsers were laid out for the purpose of
warping her a-head. While this evolution was in
progress, not only the beach, but all the high
grounds near us, and all the tombs, before descri-
bed, were crowded with people, wondering, and
not unreasonably, to see the ship move steadily
along without sails, as if by magic ; for the ropes
used to draw her a-head being led into the hawse-
148 LOO-CHOO.
holes on the Bide farthest ft'om the fihore, could
scarcely be seen by the natives. In the solitary ca-
noe which visited the Alceste, there came two in-
telligent natives, entire strangers to us, who re-
mained but a short time on board, and occupied
themselves exclusively during their stay in exa-
mining the hawsers, and the mode of warping the
ship. The perfect silence with wliich the whole
of this operation was carried on, although upwai'ds
of tlu-ee hundred people were in active employ-
ment, appeared to strike them more tlian anything
else. At least we conjectured so, from their ges-
tures, and the looks of admiration with which they
gazed on what seemed inextricable confusion, but
was in fact the most perfect order. As soon as
they had made themselves masters of the subject,
they went on shore, probably to make their re-
port. During the visit they spoke very little, be-
ing deeply engrossed by what was going on ; but
the interpreter learned from one of them, that a
certain great man, if not the original Great Un-
known so often alluded to, had actually come to
Napakiang, or was expected in the town before
night.
A report prevailed on board both the ships for a
day or two about this time, which was universally
believed by the sailors, that the king of the island
had been amongst us in disguise. We could never
trace the report to any good foundation, but it was
certainly false, and probably the work of some wag
— a description of person always ready on such
occasions to publish packets, as the trick is called
on board ship, when there happens to be little em-
ployment stirring. At the same time, if his majesty
reaJly had any curiosity, it is not unlikely tliat he
LOO-CHOO. 149
might have come to Napakiang to have a nearer
view of such ja. strange sight as our great vessels
must have proved to him.
In the ineanwliile, as the natives were resolved
not to allow us to take a nearer view of them, we
amused ourselves by observing what was going on
by means of a telescope fixed on a stand upon the
poop. The stone bridge, which appeared to be a
great thoroughfare, was our principal attraction ;
for several roads from the country met near it, and
this was evidently the great northern entrance to
the town. Not a single person crossed without
stopping to take a good look at the ships, and a
crowd of idle people, whom we soon learned to re-
cognize, generally made it their post for many hours
every day. We saw numerous parties of women
coming from the country, generally with loaded
baskets on their heads. The outer dress of these
females differed fr.om that of the men, being left
open in front at the upper part, and having no
girdle to confine it. They wore besides an under
dress, also loose, but not open, wliich in some in-
stances, we could discover reached nearly to the feet,
in others hardly to the laiees ; and we' suspected that
those who worked in the fields wore the short dress.
Most of the women allowed their upper garment to
flow out with the wind behind them, in a very pic-
tm-esque manner, and such as to enable us to de-
scribe the particulars so minutely. We observed
a woman can'jTng a child on the liip, in the man-
ner of Hindostan, the infant's hand« being clasped
together on its mother's shoulder, while her arm was
thrown round its waist. We observed a young lady
on the bridge amusing herself for some time by
making a dog bark at the sliips, to the great diver-
n2
150 LOO-CHOO.
slon of a clustor of urchins of both sexes mounted
on the parapet. On the banks of tlie stream ovei
which the Imdge was thrown, were seen groups of
people washing clothes in the Indian fashion, by fir^t
dipping them in the water, and then beating them
soundly on stones, a method effectual in more
ways than one, as the wardrobe of every man who
has been in the East Indies can testify. From one
end of the white sandy beach to the other, and on
the sunny banks of the ground above, a multitude
of the inhabitants remained lounging all day long,
occupied with nothing but looking at the stran-
gers.
On a craggy knoll abreast of the ships, along
the sides of which were several patches of rich
grass, we observed a group of elderly men seated
on the ground, with a fine majestic-looking figure
standing in the middle addressing them, like St
Paul in Raphael's Cartoon. Indeed, without much
help from the imagination, the resemblance was
most striking: the dress was the same as that
adopted by the painter ; the fashion of wearing the
beard the same ; and as the natives were uncon-
scious of being observed, they had gi'ouped them-
selves in those unconstrained and picturesque atti-
tudes, which it is the business of an aitist to ob-
serve and combine, but which are beyond his reach
to conceive.
Eai-ly in the morning of the 22d of September,
an unusual number of flags were displayed on all
the masts of the vessels in the inner harbour, and
there was evidently something remarkable going on.
Not a single boat, however, came off to us, and we
had therefore no occupation but looking tlirough the
glass, which continued to afford much entertain-
LOO-CHOO. 151
ment, particularly as tlie people whom we saw
through it acted in their usual way, quite uncon-
scious of our scrutiny.
About four o'clock, a number of boats were
observed to leave the harbour, and to advance
towards the Alceste in formal procession. In
the foremost boat sat a stately figure, evidently
a man of consequence, and whom, of course, we
immediately set down as the long-expected great
man. He had reached the Alceste before I got on
- board ; and I found him, seated in the cabin, clo-
thed in purj^le silk robes, and a light-coloured tur-
ban of the country. In liis hand he carried a large
Chinese fan, and in other respects differed little
from the chiefs, except in the richness of his at-
tire. An official communication of our often-told
history was once more made at his request, to
which he listened with the greatest attention ; and
•\<^hen Captain Maxwell concluded his statement
by telling that the ship was leaky, he begged, if it
were not givmg too much trouble, to be shown the
operation of pumping out the water, possibly sus-
pecting that this story of the leak was only an ex-
cuse ; but this was exactly what we desired, and
the chain-pumps were ordered to be got ready.
In the meanwhile the conference went on, consist-
ing principally of empty compliments. The chief
observing that we noticed his being a little deaf,
seemed anxious to explain that this was the natu-
ral effect of age, not of disease. He bared his
wi'ist, made us feel liis pulse, and called our atten-
tion to the shrivelled state of his hands, which
he held up beside ours, and laughed with mucli
good humour at the disadvantageous contrast
which age had produced. He appeared about
15^2 i.oo-cnoo.
8ixty-five years of age, and wore a board of tliiii
hair, as wliite as hhow. He was uniformly clieer-
ful during his stay, and gained the good wiJl of
every one by his uncommonly pleasing address :
at the first glance, indeed, it was easy to discovd
his superiority in this respect over all the other
chiefs.
The pumps bebg soon reported ready, tho chief
was conducted in state to the main deck, wher<
he sat for some time in great admiration of tli.;
machinery, mamied by about twenty stout sailor^.
ivho only waited for orders to work the winclu
At a sig-nal from Captain INIaxwell, the chaii
with the buckets were made to fly round, and a
prodigious volume of water was discharged, to
the unspeakable astonishment of the old man,
whose doubts, if he had any, were fidly removed
by this display of our distressed condition. On
observing the labour requii-ed to work the chain-
pumps, and the quantity of water thrown out, he
seemed really aifected at our situation, which,
judging from what he saw, he inferred must be
bad enough. As the ship was upright, or what is
called on an even keel, and the pumps were work-
ed with imusual speed, the water, which could
not run freely from the deck, in a short time
flowed round the chair In wliich the chief was
seated. Tliree or four sailors seeing liim some-
what uneasy at this inundation, and receiving a
liint from Captain Maxwell, fairly lifted him up,
chair and all, and transported him to a dry spot.
The old gentleman, though considerably surjirised
at this unexpected piece of politeness, was not in
the least displeased, but bowed very gi-aciously in
return to the low salams v/liich the sailors made
him.
LOO-CHOO. 153
This exhibition over, the whole party returned
to the cabin, where they were entertained as usual
with sweet wine, cherry brandy, and the never-
failing tobacco-pipes, the old man very civilly
undertaking to adjust ours for us. As soon
as these essential particulars of an oriental confer-
ence were duly gone through, a formal requisition
was addressed to our visitor, for permission to
land the Alceste's casks and stores, In order to
stop the leak, the formirlable effects of which he
had just witnessed. This request caused the usual
long discussion amongst the chiefs, in which, how-
ever, we were rather surprised to observe that oui-
new acquaintance joined but little, though, when
he did speak, liis observations appeared to liave
considerable weight. Whenever any one of the
chiefs spoke, he rose and addressed himself either
to Captain Maxwell, or to the stranger, as the case
might be, but always in the most respectful man-
ner.
At length they seemed to have settled amongst
themselves what answer was to be given, and one
of our old friends being deputed as spokesman,
informed Captain Maxwell that as there was
no place at Napakiang suited to the purposes he
had spoken of, and as our present anchorage was
by no means a safe one, the best thing would be
for him to sail away immediately to the harbour
alluded to at a former interview. At that place,
called Oonting, we might put on shore, they told us,
whatever articles we chose to land. On being
asked if, in the harbour described, they were sure
there was sufficient depth af water for a frigate to
ride in safety, they entered into another long dis-
cussion, during which they appeared to be re-con-
154 Loo-ciioo.
sidering the merits of the Baid liarbour. It wiis e\
dent they were apjn'eliensive of piviup^ it a Iiijrlti
character tlian it bhoidd be found on examinatio
to deserve; while, on the other hand, they wci
60 anxious to remove us at all hazards, that tliey
were unwilling to urge any delay. From this di-
lemma the old man extricated them very sensibly
by suggesting, that the " Honee gua," or little ship,
should be dispatched to see whether or not the.
harbour Avas adequate to the reception of the Al-
ceste. To this proposal Captain Maxwell readily
agreed, only requesting that one of the natives,
acquainted with the north end of the island, might
accompany us, that as little time as possible might
be lost in the search. Sim.ple as this proposal
was, they took a long time to consider it, and
ended by saying that no reply could be given till
the next day.
These unsophisticated Islanders appeared to
have by intuition, for their practice could be but
small, the crying sms of diplomacy in more en-
lightened climates, mystery, and a dread of re-
sponsibility, or a fear of committing themselves.
It was seldom possible, indeed, to place before
them a proposition so simple, but exceptions
would be taken, or difficulties conjmed up where
everything Avas natm-ally obvious and easy.
While this subject was under discussion, the
old man drew a piece of paper from his tobacco-
pouch, and scrawled upon it a chart of the island,
in order to point out the spot where the haibour
lay. This chawing, tliough rude enough, was pro-
ved afterwards, when we had ourselves sui'vey-
ed the island, to possess considerable accuracy;
and it is much to be regretted that so curious a
LOO-CHOO. 155
specimen of Loo-Choo hydrography was lost.
On many other occasions besides the present, we
lamented, when too late, having neglected to pre-
serve documents, or to record incidents and con-
versations of great eventual interest, although in-
significant to all appeai'ance at tlie moment.
A traveller in so new a scene as this had need
to exercise an extraordinary degree of vigilance in
observing, and industry in recording, what he sees,
if he hopes to transmit to liis absent friends a cor-
rect picture, witliout ornament or exaggeration, of
what passes daily before liis eyes. In every case
of Journal \\Titing, a selection of cu-cumstances
must be made, as it is manifestly impossible to re-
cord the whole : but the traveller will often mis-
take the interest wliicli he liimself feels, for that
which he conceives the same circumstances, when
described, will produce in otliers ; and, on the other
liknd, will frequently allow events to pass without
notice, which, if told simply, would convey the very
knowledge he wishes to impart. Both writers and
artists are too apt to look out exclusively for re-
markable, rather than ordinajy and characteristic,
features of the scene before them ; and thus false
notions of foreign countries are often co^nveyed to
the minds of those persons for whose instniction
the labour lias been undertalvcn. The WTiter and
the dj'aughtsman ought, therefore, to Jook out not
for what is rare, but for what, to boiTow an apt
term from geolog\% may be called average speci-
mens — fragments not selected for anything remai'k-
able, or as differing from what is around them, but,
on the contrary, because they serve to show what is
the general and familiar aspect of the spot, which,
156 i/OO-CHOo.
in nine cases out of ten, is by far the most gratify-
ing and instructive to persons at a tlistance.
The chief himself, presently becoming tired of
this long ceremony, was glad to have permission
to range about the cabin, and to examine the
globes, books, and pictures, which he did with the
minutest attention. The wainscotting seemed to
interest him particularly, but nothing pleased him
more than the mechanism of the joiners' work
about the windows and the sliding shutters, which
he pulled up and down a dozen times. Cap-
tain Maxwell tried to make him comprehend our
track on the globe, — a difficult task, where the
pupil has probably been taught to consider the
world as a flat circle, with Pekin in the centre.
On his begging to be allowed to see the different
parts of the ship, lie was canied round the deck,
accompanied by the other chiefs, and his own per-
sonal suite. First of all followed close at his elbow
his pipe-bearer, a most indispensable person ; next
to him came a poor fellow groaning under the
weight of a huge chair, accompanied by the bearer
of a red cloth for his Excellency's feet to rest upon ;
and next to him marched an attendant carrying the
hatchee-matchee box, finely japanned. Wherever
the chief walked he was attended by two men, one
on each side, whose sole business was to fan him.
This was sometimes a ludicrous enough operation,
for while one of them held up the great sleeve of
his robe, the other, placing himself opposite to the
opening, impelled a cun-ent of air along the arm ;
and it was with some difficulty that we restrained
the mirth of the younger part of the spectators, as
the procession passed. When the chief, with his
friends and attendants, petumed to the cabin from
LOO-CHOO. 157
his long and amusing voyage of discovery, fie sat
downi quite exiiaiisted, and accepted a glass of wine
and a biscuit most cheerfully. While thus occu-
pied, the old man seeing Mr Clifford pulling off his
gloves, asked leave to examine and try them on.
With the right glove he succeeded very well, but
the nails of his left hand being about an inch and
a half long, he found it not so easy a matter. He
seemed to look upon gloves as very odd articles of
dress, and laughing heartily, held them up to the view
of the other chiefs. Tliis disagreeable fashion of al-
lowing the nails to grow, is a clumsy device bor-
rowed from the Chinese, amongst whom it is con-
sidered a distinctive mark of riches, implying that
the wearer is not reduced to manual labour, which
under such circumstances would be impossible.
The occasion furnishes one example out of many
which we saw every day of the force of habit in
rendering us blind to our own absurdities. These
natives laughed heartily at the oddity of such a
curious contrivance as a glove ; but none of them
could be made to understand why it was ridiculous
to allow the nails to grow an inch or two beyond
the finger ends.
WTien the interview was over, the old man bow-
ed to me, and said he meant to visit my ship
also ; but as this seemed merely a civil speech, I
begged him not to think of taking so much trouble,
and he, in his turn, expressed himself particularly
obliged to me for being satisfied with the mere
offer of a visit, and thus the matter ended.
The Ambassador's barge was now manned to
take the chief on shore, but as soon as he under-
stood what was intended, he positively declared
he could land in no boat but his own. As it was
VOL. I. o
158 LOO-CHOO.
supposed that his diffidence prevented his ac-
cepting this attention, he was urged to overcome
his scruples, and land in the manner proposed : he
still, liowever, declined the honour, but at last, ra-
ther than seem obsti»ate about a trifle, stepped
dov/n the accommodation ladder, and seate<l him-
self for an instant in the barge, then rose up and
made a bow to Captain Maxwell, as if to acknow-
ledge the attention, but immediately removed with
his suite into his own boat, which he had ordered
to lie alongside the barge in readiness to receive
him. A salute was then fired from each ship, dur-
ing which he and liis attendants stood up, and the
boatmen were directed to lie on their oars.
It was Captain Maxwell's intention to return
this visit next day, but he took care not to say so
during the discussions in the cabin, knowing well
that a proposal to t^^iis effect would be stoutly com-
bated, and perhaps overruled. But no sooner had
the last of the chiefs taken his seat in the boat,
than the interpreter was desired to say, that, as a
matter of com'se, the chief's visit would be return-
ed on shore next morning. Exactly as Captain
Maxwell had foreseen, this declaration met witli
anything but approbation from the chiefs, who laid
their heads together for some time, and at last made
a sign to the interpreter to come into the boat.
Eveiy persuasion was used to convince him of the
excessive impropriety of our landing ; but they
could not succeed in making him yield his assent
to this point, and at length went away sadly per- ,
plexed and disconcerted.
The interpreter, who Avas called John by all
parties, Loo-chooans as well as English, though
merely an mider-servaut of tiie Factory at Canton,
Loo-ciioo. 159
was a very shrewd fellow. His English was unfor-
tunately not the best, and probahly the Chinese
which he spoke was some base patois, so that
misunderstandings were no doubt often caused by
his eiToneous interpretation. But this was beyond
remedy ; and although it plagued us occasionally,
the difficulty of communicating perhaps added,
upon the whole, to the interest of our intercourse
with the natives.
During the early part of the morning of the 23d,
we were busied in gettmg ready such presents as
we could think of for the chief whom we were to
^isit. But as we had not contemplated before-
hand any proceedings like these, we were a little
at a less to settle what should be given in return
for his liberal donation ; for he had sent off, after
he landed the day before, some live stock and ve-
getables to each ship. The portion appropriated
to the L\Ta consisted of a good fat hog, a very hand-
some goat, two bags of sWeet potatoes, a basket of
charcoal, tiiiity bundles of eggs, and a jar of clear
ardent spirits like whibky, besides many piles of
gourds, pumpkins, and melons. Tlu'ee or four times
as much was sent to the Alceste.
After a good deal of consideration, it was agi'eed
that Captain ^laxwell should take with him several
dozens of wine, some books, two looking-glasses,
various trinkets, and a large piece of blue broad
cloth. I took half the quantity of Captain i\Iax-
well's presents. Smaller donations were also made
up for each of the chiefs. Thus prepared, we set
out at one o'clock in the Ambassador's barge, with
a large union jack flying ; and the wind being fair,
soon reached the harbour. As we rowed past the
shore, the people were seen iimning along the dif-
160 LOO-CHOO.
ferent roads leadinj^ into tlie town, bo that by the
time we reached the entrance, the crowd on both
sides was immense, and the sight as striking and
animated as can well be conceived.
On our entering the harbour, four or five of the
chiefs came down to a point of land, and made
signs by waving their hands that we must row past
the end of a pier or mole, forming the inner har-
boui'. By the time we had performed this circuit,
the chiefs were ready to receive us at the landing-
place. They gave us their hands to help us from
the boats, and then conducted us along the shore,
Ookooma taking Captain Maxwell's hand, the
chief called Shayoon giving me his, and Jeema ta-
king charge of Mr Clifford. The other natives, ac-
cording to their rank, conducted Dr M'Leod, sur-
geon of the Alceste, Mr John Maxwell, the com-
modore's son, and another midshipman Mr Browne,
selected to accompany us on account of his pro-
ficiency as a draughtsman. They held our hands
neaily as high as the shoulder, and we moved along
pretty much in the fashion of a minuet, with a sort
of measured step, which made it still more ludi-
crous. In this manner they carried us through alane
opened for us among silent, gazing crowds of peo-
ple. The children were, as usual, placed in front,
thi-ee or four deep, all shining in their best di'esses,
and looking as happy as possible. The next two
or three ranks crouched down, so as just to look
over the heads of the children, and in order to al-
low those behind to see us in passing. By these
arrangements many more could obtain a good sight
of the strangers, than if they had been crowded in-
discriminately together. We were thus paraded
slowly along" for about a hundred and fifty yards,
LOO-CIIOO. IGl
till \VG readied the gate of a liandsome wooden
temple, wliere we were met by tljc principal chief.,
our giiest of the preceding day, who stood just
outside of the threshold on a small square pave-
ment of polished stones. Ookooma, who had
brought Captain Maxwell thus far, now relinquish-
ed liis office to the old chief, who gave his hand, and
showed the way to a small flight of steps leading
to the temple, two sides of which were complete-
ly thrown open, and the whole skirted by deep
verandahs, precautions which rendered the interior
shady and cool. The apartment was large, and
neatly furnished w^th gaudy paintings hung round
the walls, richly carved wooden cornices and pillars,
and everything shining with the brilliant varnish
in which the Chinese excel all other nations. In
the centre stood a large table, finely japanned, and
two ornamental high-backed chairs, one on each
-side of the chief's seat for Captain Maxwell and
me ; benches being placed at the sides of the table
for the other gentlemen.
The chief, as soon as the party were all seated,
opened the conversation by expressing how much
gratified he had been by the reception he had met
with the day before, and how glad he was to see
us at his table. He then asked our ages, begged
to know which of us were maiTied, which single,
and expressed himself greatly pleased with tlie ac-
count of Captain Maxwell's family, which hap-
pened to correspond exactly as to numbers and
age with his own. But he could scarcely be
made to believe that young Maxwell, a strapping
youth of sLx feet, was not more than sixteen years
of age ; insisting that he must be at least six-and-
twcnty. The same mistake was often made by
o 2
162 LOO-CHOO.
the natives, who judged of the ages of our young
men by tlieir height alone. After some time spent
in this easy kind of friendly chit-chat, a wine which
they called sackee was handed round in very di-
minutive cups, filled to the brim by one of the
chiefs, out of a small metal pot, in which this be-
verage was kept constantly warm. The chief and
his companions, after we had drank, followed our
example, and took off their cups fairly ; and du-
ring the whole feast the sackee pot never left the
table, being considered a proper accompaniment
to all the strange messes which were brought in
one at a time, and handed round by the attendants.
When the first dish was placed on the table, a pair
of chopsticks was given to each person present,
and these were not changed during the feast.
Cliopsticks, it is possibly not generally known,
are two polished pieces of ivory or of some hard
wood, about a foot in length, and as thick as an
ordinary quill. They are used instead of knives and
forks in China, and all the countries in that quar-
ter of the world. They are both held in the right
hand, one being fixed and the other moveable ; so
that the meat is caught up, as it were, by a pair of
pincers. The middle of that chopstick which is
fixed, rests on the tip of the third finger and its top
in the hollow space between the thumb and the
knuckle of the fore-finger ; the moveable one is
grasped by the fore and middle fingers and thumb.
Until the manner of using these implements is
learned, tliey are perfectly useless ; and the chief
observing some of us make no advances in acqui-
ring the requisite knowledge, ordered sharp-point-
ed sticks to be given to us, that we might fork
up our meat. As this would not do for rice, how-
LOO-CHOO. 163
ever, we resumed the chopsticks, but could make
little progress, till we observed how the natives eat
it, and even then our imitation was not very suc-
cessful. They held the bowl in which it was con-
tained close to their mouths as if going to drink,
and then by means of the implements described,
tumbled or rather stuffed in the rice till their
mouths were quite full, sometimes also accelerating
its further progress by the agency of the chopsticks,
in a very ludicrous manner.
The next dish, consisting of slices of fish fried
in butter, we found excellent ; after this came
smoked pork sliced, and then pig's liver cut into
small square pieces and boiled. Then tea was
handed round, which was quite new, and not very
good in its way, resembling, as our facetious doctor
observed, more an infusion of hay than anything
else. The short intervals between the numerous
c;ourses, were filled up wdth smoking, our pipes
being filled and lighted by an attendant, whose sole
business it was to run about with a small bag in his
hand, and watch when any one required tobacco,
which was not unfrequently, as the pipes were so
diminutive that some of the gentlemen of our party
found no difficulty in smoking nine of them during
the feast. The next dish was the oddest thing we
had yet seen in the way of eatables, its very ap-
pearance disgusting most of the party ; it consisted
of coarse, very black sugar, wi'apped up in unbaked
dough, powdered over with rice flour, dyed of a
yellow colour. This dish was certainly very unpa-
latable, but most of the others were so good, that
we made a hearty dinner long before the feast was
over. The succession of dishes, liowever, continued
without intermission, till our good-humoured host
164 Loo-ciioo.
seeing wc no longer cat anything, or(!orLHl them
all away, and then, suiting the action to the word,
Tccomnionded the sackee by pledging us over and
over again.
By carrying this good example a little too far,
the old gentleman's eyes at length began to glisten,
the remaining crust of formality fell off, and obser-
ving that the room was hot, he requested us to take
our hats off, as, till now, according fo Loo-Choo
custom, we had kept them on. The chief, who by
this time was quite in a merry mood, seized Dr
M'Leod's cocked hat and fixed it on his own head,
while the Doctor, who was never slow to profit by
a good hint, did the same v.ith the chief's hatchee-
matchce, or band turban. The oddity of this transfer
fairly overcame the gravity of all present ; and ex-
cited the rapturous mirth of the chief's sons, two
fine little boys, in gaudy dresses and high top ^ nots
of hair, who stood one on each side of his chair
during all the entertainment.
Our presents were now brought in by our own
people and laid before the chief. He rose and saw
them all properly arranged, and then turning to us,
acknowledged his satisfaction, obsernng at the same
time that as wc had sent him a great deal too much,
and already done him far more honour than he was
entitled to, he could not possibly think of accept-
ing the whole present, but must insist upon our
taking back tlie greater part. This speech we
considered a mere matter of form, and only lament-
ed our inability to make a more suitable return for
his kindness. After one or two civil observations
of this kind Iiad been bilndied about, the chief sat
down and said no more. The others, for each of
whom we had brought some things, Avere much less
LOO-CHOO. 165
scrupulous, and ran about showing their presents
to their friends among tlie crowd, holding up what
they had received ^\'ith an air of triumph.
The apartment in which we were entertained
was large and airy. At the commencement of the
feast it was open on two sides only ; but afterwards,
when it became heated by the crowd, the partitions
on the other two sides also were removed, being
so contrived as to slide in gi'ooves, in such a man-
ner that the room might be enlarged or diminish-
ed at pleasui'e. Four apartments might thus be
thrown into one, or rendered entirely separate from
each other, a contrivance well adapted to so fine a
climate.
When the partition behind us was removed, se-
veral strange-looking fig-ures made their appearance,
who we found were called Bodzes, or priests, — ex-
actly the Bonzes of China. Their heads and chins
were closely shaven, their feet left bare, and their
dress quite different from that worn by the rest of
the people. Their robe was shorter, much less full,
and without any belt round the waist, being mere-
ly tightened a little by a drawing string tied at the
side. Over then- shoulders hung an embroidered
band or belt, shaped like a drummer's strap. The
colour of their dress in some instances was black,
in others yellow, and in some of deep purple. A
timorous subdued cast of countenance belonged
to all these unhappy-looking men. They never
laughed along with the rest of their countrymen,
and at most a languid smile stole to their lips, aug-
menting rather than diminishing the ghastly expres-
sion characteristic of all their order at Loo-Choc.
They appeared to be lower in stature than the
other natives ; all of them had an unhealtliy look,
H)6 LOO-CHOO.
and stooped more 6r less ; and in manners and ap-
pearance, they were stron^'-ly distinguished from the
rest of the inhabitants. Along with these liodzes
we took notice of several boys, who, from the resem-
blance, we supposed at first must be their children ;
but this was a mistalve produced by the similarity
in dress of these young priests, for the Bodzes, we
afterwards learned, are strictly confined to a life of
celibacy. From the circumstance of our being in a
pagoda or temple, as well as our general habits and
associations, we naturally felt disposed to treat the
guardians of the s])ot with respect, and we rose and
bowed to them. This attention, however, was look-
ed upon as superfluous by the chiefs, who uncere-
moniously thrust the poor Bodzes on one side,
and entreated us to take no farther notice of them.
It is to be inferred, therefore, that the priesthood
in Loo-Choo, instead of being, as in Europe, the
class most respected, is considered one of the low-
est, while its members are much neglected by all tlie
other ranks. As far as we had an opportunity of ob-
sei*ving, the same tiling takes place in China — the
religion, such as it is, of both countries being alike.
During the time we were at table, the crowd,
whom the guards in vain attempted to keep beyond
the gate, pressed into the verandahs, and perched
themselves upon the walls and house-tops in the
vicinity where verthere was the least chance of get-
ting a peep of their strange-looking visitoi-s. The
satisfaction in this case was mutual, for we were fully
as anxious to make the most of this opportunity
of looldng about us, as the natives could possibly
be ; especially as we knew not if ever we should be
allowed to land again. After sitting for about two
hours, we rose from the table, and weie escorted
LOO-CHOO. 167
to the boats In the samo order as l)efore. An at-
tempt had been made during the feast, at tlie mo-
ment when the whole party were in the greatest
good humom-, to prevail upon the natives to sanc-
tion our taking a wjilk into the town. But the bare
mention of sucJi a thing sobered them all instan-
taneously, and the subject was dropped for the pre-
sent. The sailors had meanwhile been kept strictly
in the boats for feai* of their giving offence ; but they
had not been neglected by the chief, who sent them
a feast as ample as ours had been, not omitting the
liot sackee, to which the Johnies had done great
justice, as a large pile of empty pots sufficiently
testified.
We looked anxiously to the right and left as we
passed through the crowd near the temple, in hopes
of seeing some of the women, but in this expecta-
tion we were still disappointed. At a considerable
distance, indeed, on the opposite side of the har-
bour, we saw a single group of females, several of
whom stole along the outer face of the raised cause-
way to obtain a better view of the boats as they
passed. Six or eight young girls had also contrived
to conceal themselves froin the rest of the native's
behind some rocks near the extreme point of the
land. They reached this spot just as we rowed
past the pier-head, but were quite frightened at
their own temerity when they found themselves
actually so near us, and immediately drew back,
hke startled deer, behind the rocks, quite out of our
sight. We fancied we could discover a good deal
of beauty in some of their faces, and that their
figures also were elegant : but as we had not seen
the face of a fair lady for nearly half a year before,
our judgment in this case is nut perhaps to be de-
pended upon implicitly
168 LOO-CHOO.
Ookooma and liis associates put off to accompany
us in one of their outi boats, ])ut by tliis time the
breeze had freshened so much, accompanied by a
disagreeable bubble of a sea, that their little boat
could make no head-way, and was obliged to turn
back. Jeeroo then begged to be taken into the
barge, and went on board along with us, probably
to make sure of there being no stray sheep from
our ])arty.
What was to follow after this visit remained
quite uncertain, though it was clear to us that
we had made mighty little progress of late in gain-
ing the confidence of the inhabitants, whilst it was
no less obvious that fresh obstacles were hourly
rising against our landing. In the meantime, as
tlie Loo-Chooans were kind- enough to supply us
liberally with all Idnds of stock, we had no great
reason to complain, though our patience was sore-
ly tried.
On the evening of the 23d and morning of the
24th of September, it blew a hard gale of wind, be-
ginning at North-north-east, and shifting to North-
west. Our situation in so violent a storm would
liave been critical indeed, had it not been for the
reefs beyond us, which, by breaking the violence
of the waves, enabled us to ride in perfect securi-
ty. We could see, however, that it blew much
more severely in the open sea.
Early on the 25th of September, our friend
Jeeroo came with a large supply of vegetables and
fruit, and aftenvards went on board the Alceste to
join Ookooma and Jeema. They had preceded
him with a ])resent from the chiof, by whose de-
sire tJiey made a number of inquiries, and repeat-
edly expressed, in his name, great ^ul1)rise and
satisfaction at our ha\nng been able to ride out so
LOO-CHOO. 169
severe a gale. They also apologized for not visit-
ing us the day before, an omission wliich required
little excuse, as the gale rendered all intercourse im-
possible. We took occasion, in the course of the
interview, to represent to the chiefs that our limbs
were getting quite stiff for want of exercise, and
that it was becoming a matter of necessity for us
to land, on account of our health, worn out by long
confinement on board ship. This appeal to their
humanity produced the usual effect of setting the
chiefs to puzzle among themselves how to frame an
evasive answer. They accordingly debated the
matter for some time, and then said, in their old
way, that a final answer would be given to-mor-
row. It appeai'ed they had quite forgotten their
promise to send a pilot for the Lyra, which it had
been agi'eed was to go in search of the harbour to
the Northward ; they probably wished that we also
^hould forget it, since they eagerly changed tlie sub-
ject whenever it was spoken of, and even affected to-
tal ignorance of our meaning. The government pro-
bably thought it best, upon re-considering the matter,
to keep us where we were, and to discourage any
farther investigation of their island. Whatever they
thought on this particular point, it was pretty clear
tiiey were sadly perplexed by our presence. Our
force, had we chosen to put it forth, was beyond
doubt sufficient to have overpowered the whole
island ; — and although the natives already possessed
abundant evidence of Captain Maxwell's friendly
and patient disposition, they could never be quite
sure how long this forbearance would last.
The chief Jeeroo, after this day's adventures, be-
i-ame quite familiar and unreserved with us. He
was a laugiiing, good-humoured, rather fat man,
VOL. I. p
170 LOO-CIIUO.
about thirty ; shook every one cordially by the hand
whenever he came on board, and ens^aged in all
our amusements with much checrfulnosH.. He was
at times also very useful, as his anxiety to learn
English made him more communicative of his own
language than the rest ; and as he was fond of a
glass of wine, there was never much difficulty in
fixing him at table, upon which occasions he con-
tributed cheerfully and largely to Mr CliiToid's vo-
cabulary. Some of our words the Loo-Chooans
could never learn to pronounce. The letter /, pre-
ceded l>y c, appeared the most difficult : they call-
ed Clifford Crijfar, and this degi'ee of proficiency
was not attained without many efforts. Not one of
the natives was ever able to make anything of the
word child ; the nearest approaches were shoidahy
choiah^ and chyad.
On the 26th of September no boats came near
us, for what reason we could never discover. There
were also fewer guards than usual along the beach,
but Captain ^laxwell, true to liis plan, took no ad-
vantage of the circumstance, and the day passed
without any intercourse.
On the 27th, as we were still prevented from
going on shore, we amused ourselves by examining
one of the reefs which forms the north side of the
anchorage of Napakiang. We found it to consist
of a field of coral, about half a mile square, dry
at low water, with a furious surf breaking on its
outer edge, which lay exposed to the waves from
the North. The surface of this rock was every-
where indented by numberless small holes, which
being left full of water as the tide retired, were te-
nanted by beautiful little fish, of a vivid blue co-
lour, such as I do not remember to have seen in
any part of the world except at Trincomalee in the
LOO-CHOO. Ill
Island of Ceylon. The coral was exceedin^rly hard,
and though at many places it rose up in shai-p
points, it required a hammer of some weight to
break off any considerable specimen. This extent
of level space suggested the idea of measuring a
base line for the pm-pose of surveying the anchor-
age, an occupation which, in the absence of all
active operations, promised not only to be useful,
but interesting. While deliberating on this matter,
and settling where the line was to run, we had a
practical proof of the inconvenience to which we
were likely to be exposed duiing the survey, for
the tide rose and fairly drove us into our boats.
Eai'ly in the morning, our worthy fiiend Jeeroo
sent us off some fresh rock cod, and one or two blue
fish, and soon followed liis present, very happy to
find his attention so well bestowed. Advantage
v/as taken of this casual visit to send a message to
the chiefs in attendance, to say, that as both ships
stood in need of fresh water, the boats must be
sent ashore with casks to fill and bring off a sup-
ply. Within two liours after this message had
been delivered, and just as our o^n boats were
about to proceed, about thirty canoes came pad-
dling alongside, each loaded with a large tub of
water. This plea of wanting water was partly real,
and partly intended as an excuse for lauding. But
the natives contrived in their usual dexterous way
to counteract every plan having the shore for its
object.
An elderly gentleman, but not a cliief, visited
the Lyra to-day, accompanied by his secretary ;
and his appearance and manners being very much
in liis favour, we paid him |>articular att-ention. As
he wished to be allowed to go over the ship at
172 Loo-CHOO.
his leisure alone, and without interruption, orders
were given to let him have free access to every cor-
ner, cabins and storerooms not excepted. Armed
with this authority, he examined everj^hing on
hoard with more minute attention than anybody
had done before him. His secretary, who was
equally inquisitive and observant, accompanied him,
and took copious notes, at his dictation. They were
employed for about six hours during the first day
in examining the upper deck alone ; making a rule
never to quit anything imtil its use was thoroughly
understood and recorded. My cabin occupied them
an hour or two longer, where they examined the
books and furniture, and occasionally engaged in
conversation with Mr Clifford, for whose vocabu-
lary they not only supplied a number of new words,
but what was of great importance, con-ected others
which had been written down eiToneously at the
commencement of the undertaldng. This most in-
teresting person would not accept anything which
seemed valuable, but most gratefully took small
samples of rope, canvass, cloth, and such other ar-
ticles as were characteristic of our equipment. Our
industrious old friend continued his examination
of the brig during the next two days ; and so cu-
rious and particulai' were his inquiries that it was
near the close of the third day before he had comple-
ted his survey. The account was taken in the Chi-
nese character ; and I have often lamented since
that I did not try to obtain a copy, which might
have been translated at Canton, and could not
have been otherwise than a curious document.
Like many other circumstances, however, it was
allowed to slip past till too late, for after many
inquiries I could never see or hear of this nxan
again.
Loo-ciioo. 173
'I'hc sailors wero particularly pleased %A'ith this
old man's reverend appearance, and very readily
assisted liim in his inquiries. It was indeed ex-
tremely interesting to observe how early the gen-
tle manners and amiable disposition of all classes
of society at Loo-Choo won the hearty good will
even of our rougli seamen. From the very first
hour of our visit, by a sort of universal and tacit
imderstanding, which rendered orders on the sub-
ject unnecessary, the natives Avere treated by every
one, not only with kindness, but what was more
remarkable, vrith entire confidence. No watch Avas
ever kept over them ; they were never excluded
from any part of the ships ; yet not only was
nothing ever stolen, but when anything was lost,
or happened to be mislaid, nobody ever suspected
for an instant that it could have been taken by
them.
' On the 2Sth of September, at sun-nse, we set
out on our expedition to Reef Island, the name gi-
ven to the spot on which our destruction had so
nearly been accomplished a fortnight before. This
dangerous bed of coral v/e found to lie about six
miles Avest from the anchorage, and we reached it •
in about an hour, but as it was then low tide, the
water A\'as left quite shallow for a considerable
way from the dry beach, and our lai-ge boat could
not therefore get near enough. In this dilemma
we used no ceremony in tal-dng possession of a ca-
noe lying at anchor neai* us ; and by mailing seve-
ral trips in it, all the party were safely landed.
During the time of our disembarkation, eight or
ten of the inhabitants, crowded together near a
hut, stood looking apprehensively towards us un-
til we had jdl reached the bhorc, and then ran
174 LOO-CHOO.
away, leaving their tobacco-pipes, pouches, aiwl
various otlier things on the ground near their
dwelling, in which we found notliing but a pot of
sweet potatoes on the fire, and several jars of
water. Having in vain tried to allay the appre-
hensions of the natives by waving to them, to
induce them to approach, we sat down to break-
fast, but had hardly begun before two of the
people, an old man and a boy, came trembling up
to the door of our tent, and prostrated themselves
before us. They were ' so terrified that they an-
swered incoherently to all our inquiries, " Ooa !
ooa !" After a time we succeeded in raising the old
man on his knees, but until a glass of rum, which was
poured down his throat, had given him courage,
there was no forcing him out of this posture, and he
at last consented to stand on his legs. Having thus
gained a little confidence, he ventured to make signs
explaining that we had piratically taken aAvay his
canoe. We had totally forgotten the circumstance,
and could not imagine the cause of the poor fel-
low's despair ; but Captain Maxwell laughed and
ordered his cockswain to restore the boat immedi-
ately, upon which the poor native guessing what
was said, in the joy of his heait was proceeding
to prostrate himself once more, when he was stop-
ped midway by the sight of some buttons and a
piece of meat held out to him. He received these
things in both hands, and touching his forehead re-
spectfully with the present, made three low salams,
and rejoined his companions. On rising from break-
fast we discovered near the tent about a dozen of
the natives, who in most respects resembled our
friends at Napakiang, though not one of them were
nearly so well dressed. Theii* hair, instead of being
Loo-cuoo. 175
formed into a handsome top-knot, was allowed to
fly loose, a practice we never saw in the great
island.
During the morning the different members of our
party amused themselves in various ways. Some
took their guns and went in search of curlews
and sea-snipes ; others set out to explore the reefs ;
and two or three remained neai- the tent to adjust
the instruments necessary for taking observations
of the sun at noon. The sportsmen were the most
fortunate, and came to the rendezvous loaded with
wild fowl for dinner. The others having found all
things favom-able for inspecting the reef, had stored
their bottles and boxes with cunous and beautiful
specimens of zoophytes and corals. The remain-
ing party alone were unsuccessful, as a little cloud
obscured the sun just at the moment of its passing
the meridian. Indeed there are perhaps no per-
sons to whom the fluctuations in the aspect of
the sky bring such mortifying disappointments as
the practical astronomer.
The examination of a coral reef during the dif-
ferent stages of one tide is particulai'ly interesting.
When the sea has left it for some time it becomes
dry, and appears to be a compact rock, exceeding-
ly hard and ragged ; but no sooner does the tide
rise again and the waves begin to wash over it, than
millions of coral worms protrude themselves from
holes on the surface which were before quite invi-
sible. These animals are of a groat variety of
shapes and sizes, and in such prodigious numbers,
that in a short time the whole surface of the rock
appears to be alive and in motion. The most com-
mon of the worms at Loo-Choo was in the form of
176 LOO-CHOO.
HStar, whit arms from four to six indies long, •which
it moved about with a rapid motion in all directions,
probably in search of food. Others were so slug-g-ish
that they were often mistaken for pieces of the
rock ; these were generally of a dark colour, and
from four to five inches long and two or three
round. When the rock was broken from a spot
near tlie level of high water, it was found to be a
hard solid stone, but if any pait of it were detach-
ed at a level to wliich the tide reached every day,
it was discovered to be full of worms of all diffe-
rent lengths and colours, some being as fine as
a thread and several feet long, generally of a very
bright yellow, and sometimes of a blue coloiu- ;
while others resembled snails, and some were not
unlike lobsters or prawns in shape, but soft, and
not above two inches long.
The growth of coral ceases when tlje worm
which creates it is no longer exposed to the wash-
ing of the tide. Thus a reef rises in the form
of a gigantic cauliflower, till its top has gained the
level of the highest tides, above wliich the worm
has no power to carry its operations, and the reef,
consequently, no longer extends itself upwards.
The surrounding parts, however, advance in suc-
cession till they reach the surface, where they also
must stop. Thus, as the level of the highest tide
is the eventual limit to every part of the reef, a ho-
rizontal field comes to be formed coincident \A'ith
that plane, and perpendiculai* on all sides. Tlie
reef, however, continually increases, and being pre-
vented from going higher, must extend itself lateral-
ly in all directions; and this gi-owth being probably
as rapid at the upper edge as it is lower down, the
steepness of the face of the reef is preserved; and
LOO-CHOO. 177
it is this circumstance which renders this species of
rocks so dangerous in navigation. In the first
place, they are seldom seen above the water ; and
in the next, their sides are so abrupt that a ship's
bows may strike against the rock before any change
of soundings indicates the approach of danger.
On the southern side, this island is tolerably cleai*
of rocks, but on the north it is everywhere guarded
by a most formidable barrier of pointed ledges sur-
rounding a flat area extending upwards of a mile
fi"om the shore, the surface just lipping, as seamen
term it, with the water's edge. The sun was shi-
ning brightly on the beautiful coral, and the space
seemed like a vast flower-garden spread beneath
the water by some treacherous sea-nymph, to allure
the passing mariner ; and even now when the dan-
ger was past, it was impossible to view these in-
sidious enemies to navigation, without shuddering
t9 think how narrow our escape had been, and
that a few yards more of lee-way would have put
a speedy end to our voyage.
On this island there was but one hut, the most
wretched dwelling for human beings we had yet
fallen in with. The body of the house, for no walls
were visible, was sunk under the ground, so that
only the roof appeared when viewed from without ;
the inside was fifteen feet long by six wide ; the
walls built of stones were only two feet high, and
the roof in the middle about six or seven, formed of
a ridge-pole supported in the centre by a forked
Btick ; the rafters of rough branches of drift-wood
were covered with reeds, and thatched over with the
leaf of the wild pine-apple, a stunted shrub grow-
ing on most coral islands. The fi-re was placed at
one end on a raised part of the mud floor, direct-
178 Loo-ciioo.
ly over which a hole liad been broken throiigli the
roof for tine exit of the ernoke ; the other end
appeared to afforct a most comfortless sleeping
place. It was conjectured at first that this wretch-
ed hovel could only be meant for the tem])orary
residence of the fishermen, avIioso nets Ave saw
lying about ; but the number of water -jars and
cooking utensils gave it the appearance of a more
permanent habitation.
Sunday the 29th of September is memorable in
our voyage, on account of its being the first day on
which we touched the soil of Loo-Choo by consent
of the natives. On the morning before when we
were absent at Reef Island, the chiefs had come on
board to say we might land, on condition that our
walk was confined to a particular part of the beach,
and that we neither entered the town, nor went a
single step into the country. These Avere disagree-
able limitations, but we were too well pleased to
have the ice fiiirly broken, to make any complaint.
At one o'clock, accordingly, seA-eral of our friends
came on board in full dress, but in a great fidget, to
accompany us to the shore. We landed amidst an
immense concourse of people, Avho covered the sea
banks for half a mile on each side. The chiefs in-
sisted upon lianding us along, and in their desire to
be exceedingly ciWl, held us most incommodiously
by the arms, as if afraid we should break loose and
ravage the country. The day was excessively hot,
and the sand deep, so that we found tliis cumber-
some help particularly troublesome, and petitioned
for leave to Avalk alone. To this reasonable request
they reluctantly consented ; and we proceeded
broiling along the beach for about a quarter of a
mile from the spot where we first landed. Begin-
LOO-CHOO. 179
ning to get tired of a walk, which resembled more
a march across the desert, than an excursion into a
beautiful island of the Eastern seas, we stopped and
expressed some surprise at the uncivil nature of our
reception, telling our guides, or rather guards, how
very disagi'eeahle it was to be exposed to the sun's
rays at such an liour, in such a place. But our re-
monstrances produced no great effect, for, after we
had repeatedly objected to this treatment, they
merely changed the scene to a cave in the rock,
where tliey spread a mat for us on the half-wet sand,
and begged to know if we should like to drink tea
in this shady spot, seeirg that we disliked tlie sun
60 much. This was caiTying the joke rather too
far even for our Commodore's good nature ; and
indeed the place was so dirty and incommodious
in every respect, that nothing but their unceasing
dread of our going into the town, or the interior of
the island, could have induced the chiefs, in general
so kind and well-bred, to entertain us so scurvily.
Captain Maxwell, secretly much amused, but ap-
parently out of humour, told them our object in
landing was not to sit down on a dirty exposed
beach to drink tea, but to walk about under the
shade of trees on the fine turf he saw everywliere,
in order, by genial country exercise, to recover his
health, impaired by a long stay on board ship.
They tried all their eloquence to persuade us,
that our walk, thus limited, was, or ought to bf,
particularly pleasant ; till at length, Captain Max-
well affecting to lose all patience, gave them to un-
derstand that liis wish was to go to the top of the
hills, to stroll freely about wlierever he pleased ;
but as he did not mean, during his stay at tlie
island, to advance a single step beyond what was
180 LOO-CHOO.
fully approved of by the inhabitants themselves, he
would return instantly to his ship, if they persisted
any lonp^er in restricting him to the beach. A long
and tiresome consultation was held upon this decla-
ration, on the open shore, with the sun blazing upon
us, during which, frequent reference was made to
several elderly strangers, whose opinions appeared
to have great weight. At last they agreed, but
evidently with the greatest reluctance, to our going
to the top of the hill, first using the uncivil precau-
tion, before we set out, to send forward a couple of
runners, to warn oif any women who might chance
to be passing in that direction. About half way up
the road, which conducted us along a steep bank,
the top of which was covered with wowl, we came
to a neatly built well, the fountain-head of a clear
spring, which gushed impetuously out of the rock,
and flowed to the right and left along two stone
water courses, from which it was drawn off to water
the fields below. Near this spot were discovered
three or four rudely carved stones, each about a
foot long, and four inches wide, with sweet-scented
plow matches burning on the top of them, and a
small quantity of rice piled upon each. Mr Clif-
ford, whose knowledge of the language was by this
time considerable, made out that these were meant
as religious offerings, the precise nature of which
ho could not discover, though he conjectured, fi*om
some expressions used by the natives, that they
wore propitiatory of the guardian deity of the foun-
tain. The side of this hill was cut into horizontal
terraces, irregular in width, cultivated with much
care, and glowing with verdure caused by this co-
pious irrigation. When our procession reached the
biov^ of the high ground overlooldng the anchorage,
LOO-CHOO. 181
the chiefs halted, and seemed, by tlieh* imploring
looks, to entreat us to stop. But as we were witliin
only a few yards of the summit, where we saw a
shady grove, we beprged them to proceed a little
further, to which, after another long-winded council
of war, for nothing was ever done without its am-
ple share of d'slUjeration, they consented. By gain-
ing this eminence, we commanded the view of an
extensive valley to the north, exceeding in beauty
anything we had before seen. On the side of the
high land fronting us in the North-east we had a
good view of the large building spoken of above,
generally suspected to be the King's palace. Of
course our inquiries were immediately directed
to this object, but every question was answered in
so evasive a manner, and with sucli apparent dis-
tress, that we avoided further allusion either to the
palace or its royal inmate, of whom it was clear
they wished us to remain in ignorance.
We continued sitting on the gi'ass under the
trees of tliis delightful cool grove for about an
hour, drinking tea and smoking pipes in company
with all the chiefs, and fom- or five of the old men
mentioned before. The fiesli air of the mountains,
to which we had been so long strangers, together
with the exhilarating walk, and the novelty of
the whole scene, put us into the highest spirits.
Many methods were tried to amuse the natives,
and relieve them from the deep anxiety which had
settled on then* brows from the instant that our
course had deviated beyond high-water mark, the
proper limit, in their opinion, to all foreign inter-
course. We surprised them not a little by lighting
their pipes with a burning glass ; but one old gen-
tleman suspecting some trick, would not join in
VOL. I. a 6
182 LOO-CHOO.
the surprise manifested l)y all t}io others, and
hnldly hold out his Ijand that it miglit he expose<l
to the focus. He was speedily undeceived, and
roared out his recantation, to the great amusement
of the circle, who taunted him for his incredulity
for some time. The magnifying power of the lens
was next exhibited ; but it was curious to observe
that its effect was by no means the same in every
instance : a sudden start, accompanied by an ex-
clamation of pleasure and surprise, was the most
usual consequence of viewing objects through
it : some of the natives laughed immoderately at
every experiment which exhibited the magnifying
power, while others became thoughtful ; and some
looked exceedingly grave and puzzled for a long
time after. At the moment when their admiration
of the glass was considered at the highest point, it
was restored to its case, ami presented to our
friend Jeeroo. This was, I believe, the first instance
in which any of the chiefs had been prevailed upon
to accept a present, excepting on the day of our
official visit on the 23d.
A man on horseback rode past us while sitting
on the top of the hill. This was the only person
we had seen mounted, and the circumstance was
taken immediate advantage of to suggest to our
good friends, that nothing would so materially con-
tribute to the re-establishment of our health as this
description of exercise. This was said in sober
earnest, but they insisted upon treating oiu- remark
as a mere joke, dreading, no doubt, that if once we
got fairly on liorseback there would be no restrain-
ing ora* flights.
After sitting for some time we expressed a wisli,
uow that we had rested ourselves, to extend our
LOO-CHOO. 163
walk a mile or two up the couiiti y, ot, at all evcntsi,
to vary tlie road back by turiiiug to tlie left after
reacliiug the brow of the hill, aud so walking* along
the edge of the clift' to another path, which w^ould
lead lis down to the boats quite as soon as the
way by which we had ascended. The chiefs ob-
served, in reply to tliis proposal, that w^e should
inevitably tumble dowTi and breali our necks
should we attempt such a thing, affecting, not-
withstanding the gross absurdity of such an appre-
hension, to be really alamied at our danger. We
tiuTied back, therefore, after liaving gone about
two hundred yards along the top of the cliffs,
without any adventure, excepting a short interview
with a very aged decrepid man, upon whom wo
lighted by mere accident. He was seated in an
open shed on the edge of the precipice, with his
long white beard nearly covering his breast, and
a sedate and contemplative air, which gave him
that sort of aspect which the imagination bestows
on a hermit. He w^as probably an ascetic of some
kind, for our appearance did not in the least dis-
compose him, nor, until desired by Ookooma,
would he condescend to notice us at all. Even
when spoken to, he merely bow^ed his head, very
slightly, without looking up, and immediately re-
sumed his abstracted air, as if quite alone and ab-
sorbed by other matters.
As we drew near the landing-place, our compa-
nions, very much to cm- surprise, invited us to
tmrn from the shore towards a large house, or
temple, where preparations, they said, had been
made to receive us. The road led us directly
through a grove of Scotch fir trees, rising out of a
thick underwood of the tropical broad-leaved tribes ;
184 LOO-CHOO.
an unlooked-for, but not an unpleasing mixture of
the rugged scenery of our northern hilln, with the
milder accompaniments of an eastern lan<!Rcape.
After skirting along a high wall, wc reached hy
means of a large gate a nicely-kept garden, or
pleasure-ground, along the centre of which ran a
smooth gravel walk, between two low shaven
hedges. Other walks crossed the grounds at right
angles, all of them laid out in the same neat style.
By following one of these paths we found our way
to a grove of the banyan, or Indian fig-tree, under
which, and completely shaded by its branches, stood
a temple, extremely like the Chinese Pagodas which
we see in pictures.
Here an entertainment had been pro\'ided of
painted eggs, smoked pork, and vaiious prepai'a-
tions of fish, together with the usual dessert of
sweet-cakes, tea, pipes, and the never-failing sack-
ee. There was no furnitm-e in the room except
split rattan mats, spread on the floor, although
in fact it needed no covering, as it was varnished
over, and looked as clean and bright as a polished
maJiogany table. When luncheon was over, we
rose and proposed to take a turn round the garden ;
but the natives, who dreaded nothing so much as
this perpetual rambling propensity of ours, assured
us we must be already tu-ed with so unusually long
a walk, and that it would be much better to sit still
where we were and be contented. Mr Clifford, in
the meantime, who, from the progress lie made in
their language, liad become a gi*eat favourite, was
invited to join a meny party in the verandali. Here
they brought him flowers, fruits, and everything
they could tliinlc of, in order to learn fi-om him
their English names, and give in retma those of
Lco-Choo.
LOO-CHOO. 185
On reaching the boats, Jeeroo and two of his
friends seeming disposed to accompany us on board,
were invited to do so: the poor fellow was so
delighted that he untied a rudely-carved ivory or-
nament which Imng fi-om his tobacco-pouch, and
gave it to me. I had previously given orders for
dinner to be ready as soon as the boat was seen
to quit the shore ; so tliat by the tinje Ave reached
the ship it was actually on the table. I called to
my servant to place two additional covers, and the
order was so promptly obeyed, that before I could
conduct my guests below everything was prepared
for then* reception. As their offer of a visit was
made only five minutes before, they would not be-
lieve these anangements were made for them, and
naturally conceiving that some other guests were ex-
pected, refused for some time to occupy the seats
placed for them. When the covers were removed
from the dishes, they became silent, and looked to
the right and left, as if to discover what was to be
done next. On being helped to soup, they made
no attempt to touch it till they saw us take spoons,
in the management of which they showed wonder-
fully little awkwai'dness. The mysteries of a knife
and fork gave them more trouble ; but as they set
themselves seriously to work to acquire a know-
ledge of these singular instmments, in a short time
they found no particular difficulty in helping them-
selves.
The uniform propriety in the behaviour of the
natives on such occasions is more worthy of re-
mark, as it was in some degree different from our
own under similar circumstances. For example,
when we first tried to eat with chopsticks, there was
often a giggling sort of embanassnieiit, in contempt,
186 LOO-CHOO.
forsooth, of OTirselveS; for condescending to employ
an effort to acquire the use of things apparently
80 unimportant. Even their diminutive cups and
strange dishes now and then excited mirth amongst
some of GUI' party, who, in true John Bull taste,
had no conception that anything could possibly be
good which was not English. Our Loo-Choo
friends, on the contrary, never forgot the rules of
decorum in this way ; a difference of behaviour
which may perhaps have arisen fi'om then- looking
upon us as their superiors ; but even admitting
this, which travellers are apt enough to do, it af-
fords but a lame excuse for this propensity to quizz
whatever is strange in their eyes.
On this occasion, Jeeroo and his two friends
had evidently made up their minds to find every-
thing quite new, for all three made a slight invo-
luntary exclamation when a cover was lifted up
and showed a dish of their own sweet potatoes.
They tasted everything at table, and used a great
deal of salt, being much struck with its fineness
and whiteness in comparison with their own, which
was always in large dirty crystals. Towards the
end of dinner, a sweet tart made its appearance,
which our friends refused to taste, making some
objection which we could not understand. At last
one of them ventured to put a morsel in his mouth,
an experiment which seemed to dissipate his fears,
whatever they were, in a moment ; for he exclaimed,
'^ Ma?sa ! massa ! good, good." It was made of
Scotch marmalade, and Jeeroo, who had been the
first to muster courage to make the trial, in recom-
mending it to his friends, told them it was *' injassa,
amassa," bitter and sweet, a combination probably
unknown in Loo-Choo cookery. They made no
LOO-CHOO. 187
difficulty about drinking wine, but were afraid,
they said, that it would make; lliem " weety."
To relieve their fears on this Iiead, we tauj^ht
them our mode of mixing it with water, which
was evidently new ; and they relished it so much
in this form, that they were in a fair way of run-
ning into the very excess apprehended, for after a
glass or two we heard no more of their fears. Af-
ter sitting about an hour, our guests rose, and
walked all over the ship ; but on our preparing to
accompany them, they entreated us to keep our
seats, and seemed anxious to be permitted to ram-
ble about the decks alone.
During this dinner, though it was the first these
people had seen in the European style, they adopt-
ed all our customs with so much readiness, — for
instance, that of drinking with one another, — that
we were frequently at a loss to determine whether
they had just learned these customs, or the usages
of the country were actually similar to om* own.
When it was nearly dark they requested to have
tbeir boat manned, and after pushing off stood up
to take leave ; upon our begging them to remain
and smg us a boat-song, all the party joined in a
very pleasing little air, which had evidently some
reference to the Lyi'a ; but we could not catch
any of the words, though we listened attentively,
and were near enough to hear the sound of their
paddles, and the notes of their song all the way to
the shore.
During the whole of the morning of the 30th of
September, Mr Clifford and I were engaged in the
survey, accompanied by several midshipmen from
both ships. We measured a base line of 1319 feet
on the level surface of the reef, at some distance
188 LOO-CHOO.
from the shore, a situation which afforded an ex-
cellent place for such a puq)osc. But before all
tlie necessary angles were observed, the tide rose
and overflowed the rocks from end to end, so that
we had enougli to do to save our instruments from
being wetted by the spray, and to get into the
boats ourselves without a ducking. A few of the
natives who rowed off to reconnoitre us, were lost
in wonder at the appearance of the theodolite ;
but they rather assisted than obstructed our ope-
rations, volunteering to caiTy about the chain with
great good-humour.
From this time forward a free intercourse was
established with the shore ; and as httle doubt re-
mained of our being able to gain permission in a
day or two for landing the Alceste's stores, it be-
came an object of consequence to ascertain, with-
out fiirther delay,, whether or not this anchorage
was better than the harbour described by the chiefs
as being only a few miles to the Northward.
The Lyra was accordingly ordered to get under
weigh at day-light on the morning of the 1st of
October, for the purpose of exploring the coast for
ten or twelve leagues to the Northward. We sail-
ed out of the anchorage by a very narrow passage
through the reefs, and in the course of the morning
beat up to Sugar Loaf Island. We did not land,
but passed near enougli to see that it was richly
cultivated on the lower parts, while the houses
were collected into picturesque -villages, shaded
as usual by large trees all round the base, and
that the cultivation extended for a third of the
way up the sides of the peak. As this was to be
our furthest point in the present survey, we tacked
on reacliing the Sugar Loaf, and coasted round
LOO-CHOO. 189
liie shores of a large quadrangular bay on the west-
em side of the great island. The wind shift-
ed gradually as we sailed along, blowing diiectly
off the shore at every place, by which means we
were enabled to complete the circuit of the bay
before dark ; after which we anchored in sixty-five
fathoms water. Next morning we resumed our
examination of the coast, and the weather being
fine, hoisted out a boat, and rowed close along
the shore amongst the rocks ; whilst the Lyra kept
her course at the distance of several miles. In this
manner the whole shore was traced from Sugar Loaf
Island to Napakiang, without any port being seen.
We tried to land at several places, but were every-
where kept off by breakers stretching along the
coast at the distance of two or three hundred yards,
which formed, to strangers at least, an impene-
trable barrier. The canoes of the natives, how-
ever, paddled away from us, and contrived to pass
through the sm-f by passages amongst the reefs,
which we could not venture to explore in our boat.
We returned to the brig about two o'clock, and at
three anchored in our former birth alongside of the
Alceste, in Napakiang harbour.
The departure of the Lyra had excited a great
sensation. No sooner had she sailed than the chiefs
came bustling off, all anxiety to inquire of Captain
Maxwell where the little ship was gone. He af-
fected great mystery, and would not satisfy them
otherwise than by saying, that as they had trifled
with him so long, and so obstinately refused to let
him land his stores, he must endeavour to find some
more favourable place for refitting his ship. The
effect was exactly what he wished, and had ex-
pected to produce. The chiefs earnestly entreated
190 LOO-CHOO.
him not to tijiiik of iiiovinj?, offered iiini boats to
land hib stores, and said ha should have warehouses
on shore, or whatever lie desired, while his ship was
undergoing repair. Their anxiety rose to such a
jntch, that they granted him permission to land
with his officers whenever he pleased, and even to
climb the hill without being guaided or handed
along as formerly.
On the Lyi-a's anchoring, the chiefs came on
board in gi-eat agitation to learn what we had dis-
covered ; but as we had actually nothing to relate,
there was little difficulty in keeping our secret.
They accompanied me, however, on board the Al-
ceste when I went to make my report ; but Cap-
tain Maxwell, having found the advantage he had
akeady gained by keeping them in ignorance of his
intentions, was not at all communicative. A fur-
ther offer was now made of allowing the sailors of
both ships to land, for the puq)ose of washing their
clothes, a favour which previously had always been
positively refused. In short, they were in a mood
to grant anything, on condition of our agi'eeing
to remain at this part of the island ; yet they were
too sincere to pretend that all this arose out of
pure love and affection for their guests ; and, in-
deed, it was not difficult to perceive they anticipa-
ted more trouble in managing us anywhere else
than here. Amongst the numberless arguments
used to dissuade us from going to the other end
of the island, they declared it to be inliabited
by savages. But it slipped out also accidentally
in conversation, that in the event of the ships ac-
tually proceedmg to another part of the island,
the six chiefs wlio had us in charge were under or-
ders to accompany us ; so that motives of a personal
LOO-CHOO. 191
nature may have quickened tlieir public exertions
to detain us.
On the 3d of October, the crews of the Alceste
and Lyra were allowed to go on shore to wash
their clothes at the well, and by the sides of the
water courses before described. They amused
themselves also by scampering, or, as they called
it, skylarking, about the hills, a liberty which the
poor fellows enjoyed exceedingly, for most of them
had not been once over the ship's side since lea-
ving England. Two of the sailors of this party who
happened to be singing at their work near the well,
attracted a number of the natives round them, who
expressed great pleasure in hearing their songs.
At first, the audience consisted entirely of the pea-
santry, who sat down on the grass and listened with
the greatest attention, and delight. In about half
an hour, a person of rank, with a number of at-
tendants, joined the group, and begged the men to
sing several of their songs over again.
Next day, the 4th of October, the survey from
the reef was completed ; the only inconvenience
experienced in this operation was the limited time
which the tide allowed each day ; otherwise, the
situation was well adapted for the purpose, from
its commanding a view of all parts of the anchor-
age. During the progress of the principal survey,
several young gentlemen sent by Captain Maxwell,
in conjimction with my own midshipmen, com-
pleted a detailed survey of the reef itself.
During the period that our excursions were li-
mited to the sea-beach, we had frequent opportu-
nities of seeing the Loo-Choo method of making
salt, an account of which may perhaps be interest-
ing. Near the sea, several large level fields are
192 LOO-CHOO.
rolled or beat down till the surface becomes hard
and smootli. Over this floor, a sandy black earth
ia cant by the Jiand, so as to fomi a layer about a
quarter of an inch thick ; rakes and Ijrcjoms b(;ing
used to make it of a uniform tliickness. During
the lieat of the day, men bring water in tubs from
the sea, which they repeatedly sprinkle over the
fields, by means of a short scoop. The rays of the
sun in a short time evaporate the water, and leave
the salt in the sand, which in the evening is scra-
ped up and put into stone receptacles. When
these are full of this salt sand, more water is pour-
ed upon it at the top, which, having passed through,
runs out a tolerably strong brine, and this is redu-
ced to salt by the ordinary process of evaporation
in boilers. The cakes resulting from this operation
ai'e an inch and a half in thickness, but coarse and
dirty. This method of making salt is practised on
the southern coasts of China ; and I have seen it
also in Java, in India, and more recently on the
shores of Mexico.
On the 5th of October, Captain Maxwell called
for me at sum-ise, on his way to the shore. The
chiefs had not expected us to be stirring so early,
and oiu" only companion for some time after we
landed was an old peasant, who, in spite of all we
could do, now and then ran on before to give no-
tice of our approach. Two other men joined us
shortly afterwards, and continued with us during
the walk, which at first lay along the beach, but
afterwards sti-uck directly into the country : some
exception was taken to this change in the route
by our companions, but they were not urgent, and
we paid little attention to what was saftl.
After walking about a mile, and passing through
LOO-CHOO. 193
an extensive grove of young trees, we found our-
-selves suddenly close to a village, lying in the bot-
tom of a highly-cultivated glen, the houses being
almost entirely hid under the branches. The whole
village being surrounded by a high close bamboo
hedge, and each house built within a separate in-
closure, it was almost invisible even at the dis-
tance of a few yai'ds. To some of the cottages
were attached neat arbours or sheds, formed of a
light trellis-work of canes, covered over with a
variety of creepers. The suiTounding fields were
sown with rice, and divided from one another by
small mounds or embankments of earth, made to re-
tain the water. Along the top of each bank ran a
convenient foot-path; little circumstances in the
picture, which, added to the larger tropical features,
gave this valley very much the air of a scene in
India. A number of the villagers, accompanied
,lty crowds of cliildren, came out to meet us, but
not a single woman could be seen amongst them.
As these people made many objections to our en-
tering the \'illage, we passed on and continued our
walk.
The mode of dressing the ground at Loo-Choo
is very neat, and resembles that of China, particu-
larly in the process of manuring and irrigating.
These particulars seem to be most sedulously at-
tended to in places where the sugar cane is culti-
vated. Tobacco, wheat, rice, Indian com, millet,
sweet potatoes, brinjals, and many other tropical
vegetables grow in great perfection at Loo-Choo.
Along the sides of the hills, and round the villages,
the bamboo and rattan grow to a considerable size,
Ijut the pine was the most conspicuous tree we saw
on the Island, rising sometimes to a great height
VOL. I. R
194. LOO-CHOO.
and filzo, ns we infeiTe<l from soeing canoes bnilt
with planks several feet broad ; those near the tem-
ple at Napakiang, however, were not above forty
feet high, and from three to four in girth. The
banyan tree of India was seen at several places,
the finest one completely overshadowing the small
temple at Napakiang. But we could not discover
whether it was held sacred here, as in India.
It may be remarked, that on making such in-
quiries in foreign countries, it is easy by putting
leading questions, to make the natives say whatever
you please, and thus any favourite hypothesis of the
traveller is sure to find abundant support. But
even in cases, where there is the most perfect
honesty of intention in the traveller, it requii-es
gi'eat caution on his part, to frame Jiis queries in
a mamier that shall not prompt the answer. The
questions put have almost always some reference
to preconceived notions, and the reply, although
it be not necessaiily connected with these notions,
is very apt to be estimated according to its coin-
cidence or discordance with them, instead of be-
ing weighed and judged of solely on its own merits.
When to this inevitable tendency in travellers to
deceive themselves, is superadded an imperfect
knowledge of the language, and little leisure to
repeat the inquiiy, it is no great wonder that so
much eiTor has been put upon record, where not
the least intention of deceiving existed in any
quarter.
The cattle we saw on this island were of a small
black breed, and invariably used instead of horses
for agi"icultm-al purposes. Hogs, goats, and poul-
try, with rice, and a great variety of vegetables,
formed the chief food of the inhabitants ; milk, we
LOO-CHOO. 195
were told, being never used. We saw no geese,
from which we infer that those left by Captain
Broughton had not lived, and we never saw or
heard of any sheep on the Island. Their horses,
though small and slender, were sufficiently strong
for the natives. They had no carts or wheeled
carnages of any kind, all loads being caiiied by
horses ; and the roads, which were numerous, and
kept in excellent order, measured generally from
six to ten feet across.
On turning to recross the valley, we were at-
tracted by the appearance of a cottage, standing by
itself, and so completely bm-ied in foliage, as to be
concealed from our view till within a few paces
of the door. It was suiTounded by a slight fence
of upright rods, standing about an inch apart, with
a hne of creepers running along the top like a
cornice, and hanging down on both sides. A wick-
er gate admitted us, and we entered the house,
which was divided into two apartments, each eight
feet square, and opening at one end into a small
verandah. The floor, made of elastic slips of bam-
boo, with the polished surface upwards, and rai-
sed about six inches from the ground, was cover-
ed with a thin cane mat. The walls were only
five feet high, and neatly wattled like a basket ;
above which rose a pointed roof, thatched slightly
with rice straw. This pleasant little cabin was oc-
cupied by an elderly man, just sitting down to
breakfast, as it appeared, for cups, and other tea-
things, were aiTanged in proper order on the floor.
He seemed quite glad to see us, and asked us
very kindly to sit down, and take some tea and
sweet cakes along with him. This apartment was
extremely neat, clean, and well-ordered. On one
196 LOO-CHOO.
side, against the wall, were fixed a sot of shelvcB,
covered with cups, howls, and all sorts of cooking
utensils of hrass, bright and clean ; and on the op-
posite side hung several wooden hoes, rakes, and va-
rious other implements of husbandly, characteristic
of the mral habits of our host, together with hats,
straw sandals, and printed cotton dresses. Higher
up, coul(-l be seen a sort of loft or gan-et, the
floor of which was formed by poles laid horizon-
tally on the walls ; on this platform rested a very
diminutive plough, made out of the crooked branch
of a tree, several fishing-nets, and one or two bas-
kets of an extremely elegant form. In the space
between the house and the fence, was built a pi-
geon-house and a poultry-yard, kept as clean as the
house itself ; and close to the edge of the verandah
stood two small spinning-wheels, of a light and in-
genious construction, but we sought in vain for the
fair hands that turned them. The trees rose so high
and thick on every side, that although the sun was
by this time peering above the hills, the cottage was
completely shaded, except at one end, where a
small opening, or vista, through the woods on the
eastern side, admitted a stream of light into the ve-
randah. We sat for some time with the old pea-
sant, trying to express our admiration of the sim-
plicity, beauty, and comfort of his dwelling ; and
he appeared unaffectedly pleased with our praises
of his establishment.
This was the limit to the longest walk we were
ever allowed to take on the island. On returning,
we came to a road, more like a dressed walk in a
flower-garden than a public highway, by following
which,we passed through a series of beautiful gi'oves,
till at length, after winding about a good deal, and
losing our way completely, we came to a double
Loo-ciioo. 197
row of tall pine trees, interspersed with many others
whose names we were not acquainted with, and
whose appearance was quite new to us, but which
afforded a most agreeable shady walk. This road,
it was suspected, would have led to the to\\ai ; and
therefore, to avoid all risk of giving offence, we
restrained our curiosity, and, on tui-ning to the
right, soon reached the grove of trees, the limit to
our first walk. At this place Captain Maxwell sur-
prised the natives a good deal, by shooting several
birds on the wing ; but they all refused to fire the
gun themselves, nor could any persuasions induce
any one of them to pull the trigger, even when the
fowling-piece was held by another, and it was ex-
plained to them that no powder was in the pan.
In the course of the day, the chiefs waited on
Captain Maxwell, on board the Alceste. He soon
saw they were very unhappy at something which
had passed, for they spoke with agitation and alaiTn,
seemingly apprehensive of incui-ring his displea-
sure. At length he prevailed upon them to speak
out, and to say frankly what it was that had so
greatly discomposed them. After many apologies,
and much to Captain Maxwell's relief, who feai'ed
something very disastrous had occurred, they stated,
that the inhabitants were alarmed by all this filing,
and would take it as the greatest possible kind-
ness, if neither Captain Maxwell, nor any of his
officers, would in future carry fii'e-arms on shore.
One of the chiefs gave a very sentimental turn to
the subject, by pretending that the natives were
grieved to see their little birds shot. But it was clear
enough their real apprehension was, that some ac-
cident might liappen through the carelessness of the
sportL-men, or tin; ignorance of the iiJiabitauts.
198 Loo-ciioo.
Captain Maxwell kept liis countonance perfect-
ly tlii()iiii;liOTit this scene, and instead of treating
the request with ridicule, hastened to assure them
of his re^et for what had passed ; and to set their
minds at rest, immediately, and in their presence,
wrote an order forbidding any person belonging to
the ships to fire at the birds, or even to carry a
gun during our stay at Loo-Choo.
On Sunday the 6th of October, after Divine
service, a long conference was held between Cap-
tain Maxwell and the five chiefs, at which, after much
discussion, it was agreed on their part to allow the
Alceste's stores to be landed, for the purpose of
getting at the leak. Our means of communicating
on these occasions, as before remai'ked, were un-
fortunately not the very best that could be wished ;
but the intei^preter was a shrewd fellow, and very
ready with evasive answers when hard pressed on
a topic, the further discussion of which it was
desirable to avoid. We generally exj^lained as
fully as possible to John what our wishes were,
and left him to communicate them in the best
manner he could. An instance of his quickness
occun-ed to-day, which seems worth mentioning
as illustrative of the state of our communication
with these people. John had told them, by Cap-
tain Maxwell's desire, that as the leak complain-
ed of was near the magazine, it would be neces-
saiy to land the powder. The bare mention of
gunpowder was enough to unsettle the nerves of
tlie pacific Loo-Chooans ; and they accordingly
debated amongst themselves long and anxiously
on this alarming particular; and at last asked
wliy the frigate's powder might not be put on
board the little ship ' Poor John, whxx was not
LOO-CHOO. 199
aware of any good reason why this should not be
done, was disconcerted for an instant, but soon re-
covering himself, affected to be much surprised at
the question, and apprehending that we also might
not be able to supply a satisfactoiy answer if re-
ferred to, adroitly warded it off by absolutely
refusing to intei-jjret it; adding, that if Captain
Maxwell had thought such a measure right he
would not have waited till it was suggested to
him by the chiefs. The light in which he had thus
ingeniously put the suliject made them sensible of
the indelicacy of dictating to Captain Maxwell on
a point of duty, and they entreated John not to
mention what they had just said, declaring that a
place should immediately be assigned for the pow-
der.
This day furnished a new circumstance in their
diplomatic conversation, for the chiefs talked un-
deservedly of the king, the very mention of whose
name they had hitherto studiously avoided. They
declared that it was the king of the Island who
had sent all the stock and vegetables with which
we had beea daily supplied. Captain Maxwell,
who was naturally desirous of establishing a com-
munication with the coui't, no sooner saw this
opening than he intimated his intention of pay-
ing his dutiful respects to the king, whenever it
might be convenient for his majesty to receive him.
To our great surprise they heard this with ap-
parent satisfaction, and distinctly said the offer
should be made known at court. We were much
at a loss to discover any rational cause for this
sudden change of tone ; and could only conjec-
ture that the king, on heaiing many reports about
us, might have become so desirous to see us with
200 Loo-cuoo.
his own eyes, as to relax the strict etiquette of
\m nation, and for once condescend to allow liis
sacred person to be looked upon by the pro-,
fane eyes of strangers. At all events it was ob-
vious that some alteration must have been made
in the instructions to the chiefs, otherwise they
would have betrayed their wonted reserve when-
ever the king's name was mentioned, and least of
all would they have encouraged the idea of our
actually visiting the palace.
At one o'clock we went on shore by the invita-
tion of the chiefs, to look at the place appropriated
for the reception of the Alceste's stores. It was
an oblong inclosure, sixty yards by forty, surround-
ed by a wall twelve feet high, compactly built
with squared blocks of coral : the entrance was by
a large gate on the south side, from which there
extended raised gravel-walks, bordered by clipped
hedges, the intermediate spaces being laid out in
beds like a garden. The large temple in which we
were feasted on the day of our first visit, occupied
one corner of the inclosure, where it was com-
pletely shaded by a grove of fine trees, which
overtopped the inclosing wall. In that part of
the garden directly opposite the gate, at the up-
per end of the walk, stood a smaller pagoda, neai-
ly hid by the branrches of several large banyan
trees ; and before it, at the distance of ten or
twelve paces, a small square building, with a
raised terrace round it. The interior of the tem-
ple first spoken of was divided by means of shift-
ing paunels into four apaitments ; with a veran-
dah running all round, and rows of polished
wooden pillars on its outer edge supporting the
roof, which extended considerably beyond the co-
LOO-CHOO. 201
lumns. The roof was sloping, and covered witli
handsome tiles ; those forming the eaves being or-
namented with flowers and various figures in re-
lief. In one of the inner apartments we found
three gilt images, eighteen inches high, with a red
flower growing in a vase before them. The rooms
within were ten feet high ; and all the cornices,
pillars, and other wooden parts of the building, were
very neatly carved into flowers, and grotesque fi-
gm-es of various animals. The ground immediately
round was divided into a number of small plots,
or beds, planted with different shrubs and flowers ;
and on a pedestal of artificial rock, in one of the
walks close to it, stood an elegant urn, full of wa-
ter, which theBodz-es cast on the surrounding plants,
by means of a large wooden spoon swimming on
the surface. On a frame near one of the out-houses,
was suspended a large bell, three feet high, resem-
l^ling a bee-hive in shape, and riclily ornamented
in high relief.
It being determined to appropnate part of the
largest building to the use of the sick and their at-
tendants, the assistant surgeon of the Alceste took
possession of one room, and the gunner, who was
to have the whole inclosure under his charge, of
another. The small pagoda-shaped building, at the
upper end of the walk, being a retired spot, was
assigned to me as an observatory, while the square
house in the centre seemed well adapted for a
powder magazine. At the gate a notice was hung-
up, both in English and in the Loo-Choo language,
signifying, that no person was to enter without a
written permission from Captain Maxwell, or from
one of the chiefs. During the 7th and 8th of Oc-
tober we were busily occupied in carrying the
202 LOO-CHOO.
above arrangements into effect, Notliing could hr
more interesting than to observe llie care tlie na-
tives took of the sick men. They crowded round
to assist them out of the boats, and carried tliose
wlio were confined to their beds, all the way from
tlie beach to the hospital. A number of the people
attended also to support the invalids, who had bare-
ly strength to walk ; and others were happy to be
permitted to carry the clothes. No sooner were
the sick men safely lodged, than eggs, milk, fowls,
and vegetables, all ready cooked, were brought to
them. Afterwards, when any of the convalescent
were tempted by the beauty of the weather to ven-
ture out of doors, the natives were always in rea-
diness to accompany them, and to lend their arms
whenever their infirm guests became tired.
In a little plot of gi-ound in the garden, Mr Phi-
lips, purser of the Alceste, sowed mustard, peas,
and a variety of other seeds, which he had fortu-
nately brought with him from England ; the natives
taking down his directions for theii' culture. As
there happened to be no botanist amongst us, we
spared no pains to supply the deficiency, by ma-
king collections of every plant at the place. These
were carefully preserved, according to directions
we had received from Mr Clarke Abel, chief me-
dical officer and naturalist to the Embassy, and
given to him at oui' meeting at Canton. But un-
fortunately the whole of these, together with a large
collection of zoophites and madnpores, shared the
fate of the invaluable collections made in China
by this scientific and industrious observer, being
all lost in the disastrous shipwreck which followed.
The powder was landed next day, and Mr Hcl-
laan, the gunner of the frigate, began the operation
LOO-CHOO. 203
of drying it on hides, spread in the sun round the
magazine. The cows were also landed, one of
which calved that night, to the surprise of every-
body, and the great joy of the natives, who took a
paiticular fancy to the little English bull bom
amongst them, and which Captain Maxwell said he
intended to leave on the island. Mr Mayne, the mas-
ter of the Alceste, took up his quarters on shore,
in order to be near the observatory. The cordage,
sails, and stores of all kinds, which were sent
from the frigate, produced an apparent confusion ;
and the chiefs, seeing so many valuable things
lying about, began to fear that they might be lost.
This, at least, was supposed, for orders were given
to have the garden fenced round by a sort of net-
work of long poles, the ends of which were fixed
in the ground, near the wall, on the outside, the
tops being made to cross one another four or five
feet above it. This labour, like many well-intended
contrivances in this world, instead of rendering the
place secure, only contributed to make it more ac-
cessible. But as our opinion was not asked, and
Tve had not the least apprehension of theft, we
allowed the natives to proceed in their own way.
Mrs Loy, wife of the boatswain of the Alceste,
who was the only female in our squadron, of course
excited no small interest at Loo-Choo. She was a
perfectly well behaved person, and sufficiently neat
in her dress, but without any great pretensions
to good looks, or high breeding. The natives, how-
ever, paid her much attention, and showed at all
times a disposition to grant her every indulgence,
whatever restraints they might impose upon us.
They even went so far as to say, upon one occa-
sion, that she might go into the city ; but upon
904 LOO-CHOO.
consulting with her husband, who was apprehen-
sive of some accident, slie declined the offer. When
this circumstance became known to us, we easily
convinced the boatswain that no mischief could
possibly arise from trusting his wife amongst such
kind people, but it now appeared that the lady
herself was not anxious to go. Thus the only op-
portunity of seeing the capital of Loo-Choo which
occurred during our visit, was lost from an absence
of female curiosity.
This worthy lady remained on board the Alceste
till the time of the shipwreck. The charge of ti-
midity urged against her at Loo-Choo was now
found to be unjust : She bore all the hardships, dan-
gers, and anxieties consequent upon that disastrous
event, with the characteristic patience and forti-
tude of her sex. The effort, however, was too
gi'eat, or too long sustained, for her strength ; and
when the necessity for exertion was over, she gave
way, and died shortly afterwards on the passage
from Java to England.
Two of the natives, who had been studying
English with great assiduity, and with considerable
success, came much into notice about this time.
They earned note-books in imitation of Mr Clif-
ford, in which they recorded every word of Eng-
lish they learned, using of course the Chinese
character. They lived much amongst the stran-
gers, and were soon discovered to be shrewd and
observant young men. From the respect occasional-
ly paid to one of them by his countrymen, he was
sometimes suspected of being a man of high rank,
and we conjectured his object in maintaining any
disguise about the matter was to obtain a less con-
strained intercourse with all the different classes
LOO-CHOO. 205
on board the ships. This young man, whose iiamo
'was Macklei-a, by his e^-eat HveHness and singiilar
propriety of manners, very soon became a iTniver-
sal favourite, and adopted all our customs with a
sort of intuitive readiness. He sat at table, used
a knife and fork, conversed and walked with us,
and followed our example in everji:hiiig, quite as a
matter of course, without effort or study. He re-
commended himself greatly to us also by the im-
resen-ed way in which he communicated every-
thing relating to his country ; so that as he advan-
ced iji the study of EngUsh, and we made progress
in the Loo-Choo language, the means were afford-
ed of gaining much useful information. An in-
stance of his proficiency in English may be quoted.
About three weeks after our arrival at the Island,
he came on board the Lyra one day in a great hurry,
and witheut the least hesitation, said to me, " The
Ta-yin speak me, you go ship, John come shore,"
by which I readily understood that Captain Max-
well had sent him off to order the intei-preter on
shore.
Many other natives also had by this time con-
trived to acquire a Uttle English, so that Mr Clif-
ford had now little difficulty in finding people Avill-
ing to instruct him, and who would take pains to
coiTect liis pronunciation, by far the greatest diffi-
culty we had to encounter. In general the natives
were either afraid to correct us, or were not aware
in what our error consisted, and it requu-ed much
encouragement on our part to make them speak
out frankly on the subject. One of our best
teachers was called Yackbee Oomeejeero ; he
would never permit Mr Clifford to write down
a single expression till the exact Loo-Choo sound
VOL. I. s
206 i.oo-CHOo.
which beloiHTod to the words was acquired. Like
his companions, Iiowever, lie showed an invincible
ol)jection to g"iving any information about the
female part of tiie society. One day when closely
cross-questioned, he admitted that he wa-s himself
married, and told without reserve the names of his
sons ; but when asked that of his daughters, he
became as fidgetty and unhappy as if we had
been going to iiin away with them, and instantly
changed the subject. In order to provoke him into
some further communication, we told him one
day, that we believed there were actually no wo-
men on the Island. Yackabee for a moment was
thrown off his guard, and answered hastily, that he
had both a wife and a daughter, but instantly
checking himself he tried to turn the conversation
into some other channel, very much annoyed at liis
own indiscretion. WTien the picture of an English
lady was shown to liim, he commended it highly,
saying, at the same time, " Loo-Choo women not
so handsome." This worthy gentleman was a
better teacher than a scholar ; he called the letter
L, airoo ; and veal, bairoo.
During our intercourse with these people, there
never occurred one instance of theft, although the
natives were at all times permitted to come on
board indiscriminately, and to go into the cabins,
store-rooms, or wherever else they thought fit,
without being watched. On shore it was the same,
where the Alceste's stores of every kind, as well as
the carpenter's and armourer's tools, were lying
about ; and in the observatory, the instruments,
books, and pencils, were merely placed under cover
to shelter them from the dew, but under no lock
and key, and without any guard ; yet not a suigle
Loo-cnoo. 207
article was taken away, though many liundreds of
people were daily admitted, and allowed to touch
and to examine whatever they pleased.
This extraordinary degree of honesty is a featui'e
which distinguishes the people of Loo-Choo from
the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, and of
many of the Malay Archipelago, amongst whom
even the certainty of the severest and most summary
punishment, as was ascertained by Captain Cook
and others, often proved insufficient to prevent
theft. At Loo-Choo, indeed, the people are con-
siderably more advanced in civilization than the
rude tribes alluded to. Their wants also, which
are few, are easily supplied, and they seem perfectly
contented, Not^vithstanding these circumstances,
however, the fact of this extreme honesty, amongst
people exposed to such temptation, is in the
highest degree curious.
208 LOO-CHOO.
CHAPTER IV.
EXAMINATION OF THE COAST OF THE GREAT LOO-
CHOO ISLAND EY THE LYRA. DISCOVERY OF TORT
IVi'CLVlLLE.
All tilings being now in a fair train, it was de-
cided by Captain Maxwell that a general survey
should be made of the Island, and the Lyra was
accordingly ordered upon this service. We were
absent alDout a week, during which period a ge-
neral chart of the island was constructed. It must
be obvious to every one acquainted with the sub-
ject, that, in so short a time, a minute sui'vey of
the coasts of an island nearly sixty miles long
could not have been made ; yet, as the weather
was in general fine, and other circumstances fa-
vourable, the chart will be found sufficiently cor-
rect for most practical purposes. As all the neces-
sary nautical and hydrographical details are lodged
in the Admiralty, within the reach of professional
men, I shall confine myself at present to such par-
ticulaj's of the ci*ui;i5e as seem most likely to in-
terest the general reader.
On the 9th of October, 1816, at day -break, we
got under weigh and stood to sea through a passage
recently discovered by the boats ; it was so extreme-
ly nan-ow, that the least deviation from the du'ect
course brought us close to the rocks. We were
gTiided in steering by two marks on the land, ly-
ing in the same straight line with the centre of the
LOO-CHOO. 209
passage : these it was necessary to keep always
together ; but not being aware that such extreme
nicety was required, the marks were allowed to
separate in a small degree, by which deviation from
the strict pilotage we foimd ourselves witliin three
or four yards of a coral reef, the ragged tops of
which were distinctly visible two or thi^ee feet be-
low the surface, whilst at the same moment the
leadsman on the opposite side of the ship sounded
in nine fathoms. This early proof of the danger of
navigating amongst coral, by teaching us the neces-
sity of extreme caution, was of great importance
to us in our future operations.
As the coast Ipng between Napakiang and tlie
Sugar Loaf had already been examined, we pro-
ceeded at once round that island, which, from its
having the same aspect on every bearing, and be-
ing quite different in shape fi"om any land in the
neighbourhood, affords the best possible land-mai'k
for navigators. The natives call it Eegooshcoond,
or castle. We discovered the meaning of this Loo-
Choo word by hearing one of the natives apply it
to the rook on the chess-board ; and when drawings
of towers and castles were shown to him, he used
the same term.
Ha\dng rounded this peak, and stood towards
the north-west side of the great island, where there
seemed to be a deep bight or bay, another small
island was observed close in-shore, behind which it
was thought there might possibly be shelter for
ships : the coast, however, being unknown to us, it
was not deemed safe to caiTy the brig very close
in, until a boat had been dispatched to reconnoitre.
At eight o'clock the officer returned to say there
was a harbour in the main land, the enlrauce to
s 2
210 LOO-CHOO.
which lay beyond tlie small island mentioned be-
fore ; but as the passages were narrow and winding,
a more careful examination was necessary before
the brig could ventuie to proceed.
Next morning we again stood towards the shore,
using the precaution of sending a boat ahead to,
sound the way. When near the entrance, we an-
chored, and proceeded in three boats to examine
tlie har])our discovered last night. As it was near
noon when the boats passed the small island, we
landed, and observed the meridian altitude of the
sun ; after which we entered the harbour in the main
island, by an intricate passage, about a quarter of
a mile in length, and scarcely two hundred yards
wide. We now found ourselves in a circular basin
upwards of half a mile in diameter across, with deep
water, and completely sheltered from all winds.
On its western shore stood a large and beautiful
village, almost hid among trees, with a high wooded
range rising behind it, and stretching far to the
south. The eastern shore was low, and laid out
in flat fields for the manufacture of salt, round
which were scattered a few huts. At fii'st sight
this basin, or harbour, appeared to have no outlet
except the one we had examined ; but on rowing
to its upper or southern extremity, we were sur-
prised to find it connected by a naiTow channel to
another harbour still larger, and if possible more
beautiful than the first ; for here the land was high
on both sides, and covered with wood from top to
bottom. Proceeding onwards through this basin,
which had more the appearance of an inland lake
than an arm of the sea, we came to a second nar-
row gorge or outlet, formed by cliffs rising abruptly
out of the water to the height of a hundred feet.
LOO-CHOO. 211
Both sides were covered with trees, and their
branches, when viewed from a Httle distance,
seemed to meet overhead. The space below wa»
cool and pleasant, and the water, thus sheltered
from every wind, was as smooth as glass : the woods
were filled "tvith singing buxls, and tlie foliage being
in the highest style of oriental luxuriance, it was
not possible to imagine a more beautiful scene. We
rowed along for some time by vaiious windings
through this fairy harbour, in total uncertainty of
what was to come next, and at every moment dis-
covering new beauties, till at last, after advancing
about three miles, we found ourselves in an exten-
sive loch, several miles in length, and studded over
with numerous small islands. The depth of wa-
ter was in this place from four to six fathoms ; but.
in the narrow neck wliich comiected it with the
sea, we had found the depth to vaiy from ten to
twenty fathoms, being deepest at the narrowest
parts. Innumerable ships might ride in perfect
safety, during the most violent tempests, in any
part of this beautiful harbour ; the shores of which
are so vai'ied, that every purpose of re-equipment
might be answered. At some places natural wharfs
are formed by the rocks, with eight and ten fa-
thoms water close to them, alongside which ships
might lie; or they might heave down by them.
There are also shallow spots on wliich, if required,
the sliips might be careened. Many of the cliffs are
hollowed into natural caves, which would answer
for storehouses ; and in the numerous lawns on
both sides encampments might be formed fur any
number of people.
We rowed dii*ectly across the open lake, and
landed at the southern side, at the base of a wooded
212 LOO-CHOO.
range of hills, forming the southern boundary of
the landscape. As no road was observed, it was re-
solved to go directly up the hill, and, in about an
hour, after a good deal of scrambling amongst the
bushes and long gi-ass, we gained the top, where
we discovered a neat pathway with a ditch, and
a bridge on each side, like an English lane. With-
out knowing where this might conduct us, we
followed it, in hopes of meeting some of the people,
none of whom had yet been seen.
The trees on this range of liills were low, and
of no great beauty ; fir and pine, and a low spe-
cies of oak, being the most common ; tlie rest were
new to us. The view from this elevation was very
satisfactory, as it enabled us to check our rough
eye-draught of the harbour and coast. After walk-
ing about a mile, our path turned abruptly down
the brow of the hill, and appeared to lead to a
large village at some distance. This road was
so steep that it was barely possible to walk up-
on it. At the bottom stood a little cottage, con-
sisting of two compartments, made of wattled canes,
connected by a light open bamboo roof of trellis-
work, so thickly covered with a large-leaved creeper
as to afford a complete shelter from the sun. The
cottage itself, wliich was thatched, was also enve-
loped in creepers, encircled by the usual rattan
fence at two or three yai'ds' distance. One of the
wings was occupied by goats, the other, which
was dark, seemed to belong to the people, who
had deserted it on our approach. There being
only a small hole in the wall to admit light and air,
and to allow the smoke to escape, everything in-
side was black and dirty.
As we had not vet seen aiiv kind of military
LOO-CHOO. 213
weapons, at Loo-Clioo, we looked out for them
sharply at all these places. The natives always
declared that they had none, and their hehaviour
cm seeing a musket fired implied an ignorance of
fire-arms. In one of tl>e cottages we found two
speai's wliich had the appearance of warlike wea-
pons ; but there was every reason to believe they
were used for the sole pui'pose of striking fish,
others not very dissimilar having been seen in
the boats. The natives looked at our swords and
cutlasses, and at some Malay creeses and spears,
which we had got at Java, with equal sui-]5rise, be-
ing apparently ignorant of them all. The chiefs
earned little knives in cases, thnist into the folds of
their robes, or in the girdle, and the lower orders
wore a larger knife ; but these were always for
common use, and certainly not worn for defence
or ornament ; and they always denied having any
knowledge of war, either by experience or by tra-
dition.
On retmning to the boats, we foimd them sur-
rounded by a party of the natives, lower, we
thought, in stature than our friends at Napakiang,
and possessed of less curiosity ; although, proba-
bly, their surprise at our sudden appearance had
not subsided sufficiently to allow of tlieir indul-
ging in miimte inquiries. A lai'ge party watch-
ed us attentively while a musket was loaded ;
when it was pointed over their heads in the air,
they were aware that something was going to
happen, but from their not shrinking or remov-
ing out of the way, it seemed they knew not
what. When it was fired, the whole party fell on
their faces, as if they had been shot, ])ut rose in-
stantly again, and looking to the right and left at
214. L<jo-ciiou.
one another, indulged in a timorous laugh. A
cartridge was very imprudently given to one man,
with which he was nearly blowing liimself up by
placing it on his lighted pipe.
On returning by the narrow harbour, we called
at some of the small villages on the eastern side.
At one of these, the inhabitants, headed by an
elderly man who appeared to have authority over
the rest, came towards the boat, but stopped
at the distance of fifty yards. After pausing for
some minutes, they appeared to gain confidence,
for they came forward, with the old man at their
head, carrying a green bough in liis hand. He
would not venture very near, however, till repeat-
edly invited by Mr Clifford in the Loo-Choo lan-
guage, to look at the boat. He at last advanced
in fear and trembling, and presented liis bough ;
in return for which we broke a branch from a tree,
and gave it to him with the same formality he had
used towards us. Soon after this exchange was
made, they left us, and went to examine our boat,
natm'ally enough an object of primary interest to
fishermen.
On entering the village we were met by a man
who appeared to be the principal person of the
place ; after showmg us the village, he carried
us over his garden, where he had some sugar-
canes growing, and, upon our admiring his crop,
ordered one of the finest and longest canes to
be taken up by the roots and presented to us.
We gave him in return a few buttons, with which
he seemed more pleased than with the money we
offered him. On its beginning to rain while we
were looking at the garden, he invited us into the
iiouse, which, from the walls being of Avattled canes,
Loo-ciioo. 215
looked more like a large bird-cage than a dwellinir
for men. Rude pictuj-es and cai'ved woodwork
figmes were lianging on tlie walls, along Antli some
inscriptions in Chinese characters.
On retmTiing to the lower harbour, we rowed
to the large village, situated on its western bank.
It was by far the most complete of any we had seen
on the island ; the streets being regular and clean ;
and each house having round about it a neat cane
wall, as well as a screen before the door ; plantain
and other trees were growing so thickly on the in-
ner side of these fences, that most of the houses
must have been thrown into complete shade even
during the middle of the day. In front of several
of the houses lying near the beach, we found a
number of people seated wdth writing materials be-
fore them. On accosting them, they invited us to
partake of their tea and cakes, and afterwards gave
us permission to go all over the village without re-
straint. The inliabitants were curious to know
whether the brig was coming into the harbour or
not, and if so, how many days we meant to remain ;
they expressed neither pleasure nor regret when
infonxied that the ship was not coming fuither.
Before the village and parallel with the beach, there
was planted a fine avenue, thirty feet A\ade, and a
quarter of a mile long, fonned by two rows of large
trees, whose branches joined overhead, and eflTec-
tually excluded the rays of the sun ; here and there
were placed wooden benches, and at some places
stone-seats fixed near the trees. This village was
called Oonting, and is certainly that to wliich the
chiefs alluded at an early stage of our acquaint-
ance.
A rancre of hills of a semicircular form embrace
216 LOO-CHOO.
the village, and limit its extent : at most places
their sides are steep, but at the point where the
north end joins the harbour an overhanging cliff
rises about eighty fee4; high, the upper part of which
projects considerably beyond the base. At eight
or ten yards from the gi'ound on this inclined face,
we observed a long horizontal gallery hewn out
of the solid rock, communicating with a number
of small square excavations lying still deeper in
the rock, intended, as the natives gave us to un-
derstand, for the reception of vases containing the
bones of the dead.
The trees and long creepers growing on the edge
of this precipice hung down so low, as almost to
meet the top branches of those on the plain beneath ;
thus forming a screen of foliage hanging like a veil
before the rock and throwing the gallery into deep
shade. Everything in this beautiful cemetery
was perfectly still and silent, and the whole scene
exceedingly solemn. It took us, indeed, some-
what by surprise, for notliing in its external ap-
pearance had indicated the mournful purpose to
which it was appropriated. On passing we had
accidentally discovered an opening amongst the
trees and bmshwood, and resolving to see what
it m.ight lead to, had entered by a naiTow path
winding through the grove. The liveliness of the
scenery mthout, and the various amusements of
the day, had put us all into high spirits ; but the
unexpected and sacred gloom of the scene in which
we suddenly found ourselves had an instantaneous
effect in repressing the mirth of the whole party,
who marched out again like so many reformed
scoffers from the cave of Trophonius.
We named tliis 'excellent harbour which we had
LOO-CHOO. glT
discovered, Port Melvillc; in Jionour of the First
Lord of the Admiralty.
As it was quite dark before we reached the brig,
and a heavy swell rolled in, no time was lost in
getting under weigh ; but before we could suc-
ceed in running well off shore, the wind sud-
denly changed, and the weather, which before had
been fine, became so dark and squally, that we al-
most lost sight of the coast. Oui' situation was
now very critical, for we had just sufficient know-
ledge of''the place to be sensible how extremely
dangerous it was ; and the wind, which blew di-
rectly on the coast, came in such violent gusts, that
there was great reason to apprehend the loss of our
topmasts, in which case we must infallibly have pe-
rished : to reef the topsails was out of the ques-
tion, as the delay which this operation must have
caused, however expertly executed, would havo
proved fatal. While things were in this state, it
became necessary to tack, in order to avoid run-
ning on the rocks ; but owing to the heavy and ir-
regular swell, this evolution failed, and before the
sails could be trimmed again, the brig had gone
stern foremost almost to the verge of the reef, on
which the sea was breaking to a vast height. For-
tunately we were more successful on the next at-
tempt, otherwise nothing could have saved us.
But we gained so little at each tack, that our course
backwards and forwards, for upwards of an hour,
lay parallel with the line of breakers, at the distance
of less than a quarter of a mile under our lee ;
after which the wind shifted a little, and enabled
us to stretch off, clear of all danger.
During the 12th it blew so hard that we were
under the necessity of keeping out at sea, cleai* of
VOL. I. T 7
218 LOO-CHOO.
the shore, but on the 13th the weather becoming
moderate, we stood in again to determine the po-
sition of five islands lying to the northward of Port
Melville.
On the 14th the whole eastern side of the island
of Loo-Choo was explored. The north and north-
east sides were found to be high, and nearly des-
titute of cultivation. At one place we discover-
ed a deep indenture on the coast, and the wind
being such as to admit of sailing both in and out,
we stood on under low sail, taking all the usual
precautions ; notwithstanding which we very near-
ly ran aground, for the water shoaled suddenly
from twenty-four to eight fathoms ; and although
the brig was instantly tacked, the soundings as she
came round were only five fathoms, while to lee-
ward, at the distance of only fifty yards, the
ragged tops of a rock just level with the surface
were discovered. The coast from this bay to the
south point of the island was found everywhere
fringed with coral reefs, extending many miles
from the shore, and rendering this part of the
island in the highest degree dangerous. The ex-
treme south point being comparatively clear of
rocks, we anchored off it at sunset, proposing to
land with our instruments next day, to determine
its true position. We found the iron cables of
great use during this cruize, when obliged to an-
chor amongst these reefs, as those made of hemp
would have been cut through in a veiy short time.
It blew hard during the night, but in the fore-
noon of the 15th, moderated sufl5ciently to allow
of our landing, and we ascertained the latitude of
the extreme south point of the island to be 26°
43' N. and the longitude 127° 33^ E.
LOO-CHOO. 819
We had scarcely effected a landing before the
natives began to assemble in groups on the top of
the cliffs, and in a short time came down to the
shore, most of them brandishing long poles in
their hands. We were too well aware of their in-
offensive character to have any apprehension of
an attack, otherwise this appearance would have
looked somewhat formidable. There was no per-
son of rank amongst them, and they were more
communicative, and more curious than their coun-
trymen to the northward on the shores of Port
Melville ; a difference caused possibly by these
people having already heard something of us by
report from Napakiang, not above ten miles dis-
tant. A certain degree of acquaintance, indeed,
seems necessary before curiosity is properly awa-
kened : at least we generally foimd the most igno-
rant people the least curious. Spears in the form of
a trident, with nide barbs, were tatooed on most of
their aims, affording the only example we saw
at Loo-Choo of such a practice. Our curiosity was
naturally excited by these appearances, as we had
never seen any warlike weapon on the island ; but
the people invariably called them " Eeo stitchee,"
fish spears. Several of the tallest of these men were
measured, but none was above five feet six inches,
though in general strong limbed, and well propor-
tioned. One of them wore a ring on his finger,
which is remarkable from being the only instance
we met with of any such ornament at Loo-Choo :
yet it is odd enough that what we distinguish by
the name of the ring-finger is also so called in tlie
Loo-Choo language, " Eebee gannee," finger of the
ring ; and it seems a fair inference from this, that
220 LOO-CHOO.
amongst Romo pait of the comTiiimity linens arc ha})i-
tually worn, probably by tlie women. On the IGth
of October we returned to Napakiang harbour,
after having completed the circuit of the island.
I
LOO-CHOO. 221
CHAPTER V.
PROGRESS OF OUR ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE NA-
TIVES MADDERA DINNER GIVEN TO THE CHIEFS
THE PRINCE OF LOO-CHOo's VISIT TO CAPTAIN
MAXWELL — PARTING SCENE.
We found things pretty nearly in the state we
had left them : the best understanding seemed still
to exist between our people and the natives, and
everybody was now allowed to walk about, and do
as he pleased. The frigate had also been bounti-
fully supplied with live stock and vegetables ; and
the sick on shore were rapidly recovering under
-the care of the natives, who took a peculiar plea-
sure in suppling all their wants, and in study-
ing to provide those numberless little comforts
which contribute so much to the recovery of in-
valids.
A young man belonging to the Alceste had died
during our absence. \\Tien the chiefs were in-
formed of this circumstance, they requested Cap-
tain Maxwell's permission to make the grave, and
begged him to point out the spot which he would
like best for this purpose. With his wonted good
taste, he received this offer as a high compliment,
and gratified the whole population, amongst whom
it was instantly circulated, by saying that no situa^
tion could be more appropriate than under the
grove of fir trees near the temple, a spot already
rendered sacred by many I^oo-Choo tombs. The
222 Loo-CHOO.
grave was accordingly dug by the natives, and on
the next day the body was carried to it with all
the formalities usual on such occasions. Captain
Maxwell, according to military custom, which at
funerals inverts the usual order of precedence,
walked last, with the crew and officers before him.
For a moment tliis unexpected arrangement puz-
zled our worthy friends, who were at a loss where
to place themselves. The genuine politeness of
their nature, however, readily pointed out the pro-
per course ; and perceiving that the persons of
highest rank walked in the rear, they decided that
their station must be in front. They accordingly
took the lead, and afterwards remained by the side
of the grave while the service was read, to which
they listened with the most profound attention.
All the natives present upon this occasion were
dressed in pure white, which is their mourning.
Next day the natives requested leave to erect a
tomb-stone over the grave of our departed coun-
tryman, an offer which was cheerfully accepted.
When the building was completed, they performed,
as I was told, their own funeral rites over it, by
sacrificing a large hog, and burning a quantity of
spirits. On this occasion Jeeroo is described as
having officiated, and when he had done all that
was requisite, he carried the hog as a present to
the sick in the hospital. The epitaph, written in
Loo-Choo and English, after setting forth the
name and age of the deceased, stated briefly, that
he and his companions, in his Britannic Majesty's
ships Alceste and Lyra, had been kindly treated
by the inhabitants of tins island.
Our good friends expressed much pleasure on
meeting ua again, particularly Jeeroo, who took
Loo-CHoo. 223
great int^est in all our concerns. He carried us
up to the sailor's tomb, where the paity was join-
ed by Ookooma, Jeeraa, and some of the others-
I was glad to find some sick men of my ship wlio
had been landed previous to our sailing on the sur-
vey, much recovered, and very gi'ateful for the kind-
ness of the natives. Milk, eggs, meat, and vege-
tables, had been brought to them every day ; and
whenever they felt disposed to take exercise, were
sure to be accompanied by one or two of the na-
tives, who held tlieir arms on coming to rough
ground, and helped them up the steep side of the
hill behind the hospital, to a pleasant grassy spot
on the summit, and having lighted pipes for them,
remained patiently till the invalids wished to re-
turn. In short, I suppose sailors were never so
caressed before ; and it was pleasing to observe how
much our hardy seamen were softened by such
gentle intercourse : for it was not to the sick alone
that the influence of this unaffected suavity of man-
ners extended. The whole crews of both ships
participated in the same kindly sentiment, and laid
aside for the time all their habitual roughness of
manner, and without any mterference on the part
of the officers, treated the natives at all times with
the greatest consideration and kindness.
The chiefs were all anxiety to know what we had
been doing during our absence ; but from an ap-
prehension that they might be displeased at a i-e-
gular examination of the whole island, we merely
mentioned among other things, that we had been
looking at the harbour they had formerly spoken
of. They immediately exclaimed, Oonting ! and
asked how we liked the spot. Theyguess,ed that
we had been round the island, from seeint? us ic-
224 LOO-CHOO.
turn by the south, tliough the coiirfie had first been
to tlie northward. Thoy repeatedly said their island
was very small, and very insignificant, appearing
anxious to depreciate it ; while of course we re-
plied, that it was very large, and very beautiful.
Maddera had made great improvement in Eng-
lish during our absence ; his character was altoge-
ther more developed, and being now quite at his
ease in our company, took an unaffected interest in
everything belonging to us. But his earnest desire
to inform himself on all subjects sometimes distress-
ed him a good deal. Having discovered the facility
with wliich he accomplished some things, his en-
terprising mind immediately suggested the possi-
bility of imitating us in all ; but when made sen-
sible of the number of steps by which alone the
knowledge he aspired to could be attained, his de-
spair was strongly marked. One day, on shore, see-
ing me with a book in my hand, he begged me to
sit down under a tree, and read. Jeeroo was tlie
only chief present, but there were several of the
peasants in attendance. The whole party lay down
on the grass, and listened with deep attention and
interest, especially Maddera : the rest were perfect-
ly contented ; but it was his wish to be able to read
in the same manner himself, and he in vain tried
to do so.
From the earnest way in which he inquired
into every subject, it was of^en suspected he must
have been directed by the government to inform
himself on these topics ; and certainly a fitter per-
son could not have been selected ; for by adapting
Iiimself to all ranks, he soon became a universal fa-
vourite, and obtained whatever information he de-
sired. Jeeroo was quite a different person, and was
Loo-CHoo. 225
vTilued on other accounts. He was nnilbrmfy good-
humoured and obliging, and not without a consi-
derable share of curiosity ; but he was not nearly so
clever, and showed none of that ardent enthusiasm
so remarkable in >\Iaddera. Every one felt kindly
towards Jeeroo, laughed and joked with him, and
shook him cordially by the hand whenever they
met ; but Maddera was admired and respected, aa
well as esteemed ; and though he, too, could be as
jocular, if he pleased, or more so, than Jeeroo, ho
was of a higher order of character, and his society
was in general more sought after.
Maddera was about twenty-eight years of age,
of a slender figure, and ver\' active ; his upper teeth
projected a little over the lower ones, giving his
face a remai'kable, but not a disagreeable appear-
ance. He was at all times cheerful, often lively and
playful ; but his good sense always prevented his
going beyond the line of strict propriety. When
required by circumstances to be grave, no one was
80 immovably serious as Maddera ; but when the
occasion suited, he became the gayest amongst us^
Such indeed was his good sense and the nicety of
his taste, that he not only caught the outward tone
of the company, but, I believe, really thought and
felt with them. The enterprising spirit and im-
common versatility of talent in this interesting na-
tive, led him to engage in a great number of pur-
suits at once ; his success, however, was most
remarkable in the acquisition of English. About a
month after our arrival, being asked one day what
had become of his companion Anya, his reply was,
" Anya ? — him mother sick — he go him mother's
house I* and when asked when he would return,
said, " Two — three — day time, him mother no
226 Loo-CHOO.
sick, he come ship." Witli all these altalnmente,
Maddera was unaffectedly modest and unpretend-
ing, never seeming at all aware of being superior
to the rest of his countrymen. For a long time
we were in doubt what his rank was ; for at first
he kept himself so much in the back-ground, that
before the officers were at all acquainted with him
he was long known to the midshipmen. It is true,
he was always dressed in the style of the most re-
spectable natives, and it was evident from liis man-
ners that he belonged to a higher rank ; yet he never
associated with the chiefs, and eagerly disclaimed
having any pretensions to an equality with them.
But notwithstanding all this studied humility, oc-
casional circumstances occurred, which, by show-
ing his actual authority, almost betrayed his secret.
One morning a difficulty arose about some sup-
plies which the chiefs had engaged to procure, but
which had not been sent off : as soon as Mad-
dera was told of the omission, he went straight to
Captain Maxwell, and, with the air of a man of
authority, undertook to arrange it to his satisfac-
tion, wliich he accordingly did ; begging, at the same
time, that if any similar difficulty arose in future,
which the chiefs were slow to rectify, he might be
applied to immediately.
The great interest which Maddera took in the
English strangers, and the insatiable curiosity he ex-
pressed to hear about our customs, naturally sug-
gested the idea of taking him with us to England,
where, like Lee Boo, he would have been a most
interesting specimen of a people little known. Had
this idea been followed up he might have cairied
back with him much knowledge useful to his coun-
try' When this project of going to England was
Loo-CHOO. 227
proposed to him, he paused for some minutes,
and then, sliaking his head, said, " If I go In-
jery, — father — mother — childs — wife — house — all
cry I not go to Injery ; no, no — all cry I"
In our absence a number of watch-houses had
been erected on the heights round the anchorage,
made of cane thatched over, in which three or four
of the natives remained day and night, ready to
accompany any person who happened to land.
They had erected a long shed also, with a floor of
split bamboo, on the top of the hill, above th«
usual landing-place, where the chiefs generally as-
sembled in the morning, and invited every one who
passed by to drink tea and smoke pipes. This
proved a very convenient lounging-place in the
heat of the day, after our walks, when the boats
happened not to be ready to take us on board.
Each of the principal natives was attended by a boy,
generally his son, whose business it was to caiTy a
little square box, divided into small drawers, and
numerous other compartments, some filled with rice,
others with sliced eggs and small square pieces of
smoked pork, cakes, and fish ; in one comer was
nicely fitted a small metal pot of sackee, besides
cups, chopsticks, and a store of little plates and
bowls. By having this supply always at hand,
they could take dinner when and where they
pleased. To these parties we were frequently invi-
ted ; and, if we agreed to the proposal, any of
the other chiefs whom they chanced to meet were
asked to join the party, and to unite their stock.
The place selected for these pic-nics was common-
ly some cool spot, with a spring near at hand,
generally un-der the trees. A mat spread on the
grass was our table-cloth, and everything beii»g
228 Loo-cHoo.
laid out in great order, tlio party lay round in a
circle, and seldom broke up till the sackee pots
were emptied.
It was impossible not to be struck with the
amiable manner in which these good people treat-
ed their children. Wlienever anything new was
shown, they were never happy till they had brought
the young folks to participate in the satisfaction.
The parents and children were, I think, more con-
stant companions than I have seen anywhere else;
and the familiarity by which this freedom of in-
tercourse was attended being always well regula-
ted, the parental authority remained essentially in
full force. It was most interesting to observe the
sagacity with which this authority was waived at
moments when its exercise might have been detri-
mental rather than beneficial to good discipline.
One day, while we were dining in the manner descri-
bed with the chiefs on the top of the hill, a little boy
began to exhibit some clever feats of tumbling
amongst his companions on the grass before us. In a
short time all eyes were turned towards him, upon
discovering which he modestly discontinued his
feats, appearing to lose confidence the moment he
was watched. Buttons and various other things were
offered to induce him to repeat his exhibition ; but
in vain. Jeeroo was then asked to interfere ; he did
so, and told the youngster to go on ; but the boy-
kept his seat on the grass, and Jeeroo became angiy,
or rather pretended to be so, yet our tumbler sat
resolutely still. " Well," said the chief to us, shrug-
ging his shoulders, " what is to be done ? It was
for his own amusement that he began, and proba-
bly for his own amusement he will go on again."
The boy accordingly, when left alone, in a short
Loo-CHOO. 229
time returned to his gambols with more epiiit tliau
ever. I mention tliis to show tlie cluefs good
sense in not forcing the boy to do that as a task
which had been beg:mi as an amusement, and which
he had discernment enough to perceive would be
unpleasant for us to witness on other terms. By
this mild treatment, mutual cordiality and free-
dom of intercourse were established ; and it was
probably owing to this mode of education that the
children became so soon at ease and familiar with
U9. One day while I was employed sketching the
village and trees near the bridge, a fine little fellow
came near me, and without saying a word, en-
deavoured to attract my notice by performing
various antics before me. Being desu'ous of see-
ing how long he would go on, I took no notice of
him for some time, but at length looked up and
smiled ;* upon which the boy cried out, " How do
you do ? Very well, I thank you ;" and ran off,
quite delighted at having displayed his proficiency
in English.
An aitist of the island brought a drawing of the
Alceste on board one day for Captain Maxwell :
it measured about two feet long, and was altogether
a singular specimen of the state of the arts in Loo-
Choo, in which all perspective and proportion were
curiously disregarded. The Capteiin and the offi-
cers, half as tall as the masts, were introduced in
full uniform, as well as a number of the sailors
sprawling about the rigging. With all this extra-
vagance, however, the picture had considerable
merit; there was nothing slovenly in its execution,
and it had enough of truth in it to show that it
was sketched on the spot, and by a person not
without some knowledge of hjs subject.
VOL. I. u
230 LOO-CHOO.
A cfisputc arose on the 18th fxjtwcon John tlie
interpreter and the chiefs, who, it seemed, had posi-
tively promised to furnish a horse for Captain Max-
well's use, but had not kept their word, and Jolm
declared in great wrath, that he would have no-
thing more to say to people who so notoriously
disregarded truth. This declaration excited great
mirth on board the ship : but the humorous point
is much lost upon those who are not aware of the
proverbial want of veracity in the Chinese gene-
rally, and in an especial degree of the class at
Canton, to which our friend John belonged.
The people of Loo-Choo appear to have no
money, and from all we could see or hear, in-
credible as it appears, were even ignorant of its use.
Those amongst the natives, of course, who had
visited China, could not be so ill informed, yet none
even of these showed any desire to possess Spa-
nish dollars, or gold coins. Though we frequently
tried to make out from Maddera and the other
chiefs what their medium of exchange was, we
could never learn anything satisfactory upon tho
subject. As far as we had the means of discover-
ing, indeed, they were never fully sensible of the
nature of our questions about money ; a difficulty,
it may be observed, which it was natural to ex-
pect among people whose sole mode of purchase
was barter. The only circumstance which camo
to our knowledge bearing at all upon this ques-
tion, occurred when the garden was under prepa-
ration for the reception of the Alceste's stores.
It was then lemarked that each of the labourers
employed had a small piece of paper stuck in his
hair, with a single character wTitten upon it ; this
of coui'se excited our curiosity, but the inquiries
LOO-CHOO. 231
we were enabled to make at that early stage of
our knowledge of the language, led to nothing con-
clusive. Afterr^'ards, when our means in this re-
spect were more ample, we could not recall the
circumstance to the recollection of the chiefs. But
as these papers were called by the people wear-
ing them " hoonatee," and as " hoonee" means
ship, it was conjectured they were Tv-ritten passes
to enable the bearers to enter on the ship's busi-
ness, or they niight be acknowledgments for the
labour done while the men were employed in our
store-rooms.
On the 19th of October, before breakfast, Cap-
tain Maxwell being informed by one of the chiefs
that a horse was ready for him on the beach, he
landed and found a little pony saddled, and stand-
ing by two of the chiefs, who were mounted in
order to bear him company. They objected to
J lis riding in tlie country, where the roads, they
pretended, were uneven ; so that his first ride like
his first walk was confined to the beach.
A grand entertainment was given on the same
day by Captain Maxwell to the chiefs. Maddera
also made one of the party, though not originally
included in the invitation. As he had never claim-
ed equality in rank with the chiefs, it was not
thought right to invite liim at the same time :
but he, knowing perfectly well that he would be
right welcome, and that he would be of essential
use to both parties, took care to put himself in the
way just before dinner, and was easily prevailed
upon to remain.
Dinner was served up at five o'clock, in as sump-
tuous a style as possible. Ookooma, the princi-
pal chief, ^vas placed on Captain Maxwell's right,
232 LOO-CHoo.
and Sliayoon on his left ; Mr CHfibrd and 1 took
charge of two others, and the officers of the rest.
The first lieutenant, Mr Hickman, sat at the bot-
tom of the table, with one of the cljiefs on his
right, and our friend Maddera on his left. They
were all in high spirits, and eat and drank freely ;
they complained a little of the size of the glasses,
and of the strength of the wines, but gallantly tasted
everything from punch to champagne. The brisk-
ness of this last wine, indeed, surprised them great-
ly, and effectually muddled two of the party for
a time. Cheese was the only thing objected to,
probably on account of its being made from milk,
which is never used on this island. The conversa-
tion was carried on entirely through Mr Chfford and
Maddera, partly by signs and partly by a mixture
of English and Loo-Choo ; but whether intelligibly
or not, everybody was talking merrily under the
influence of that universal interpreter, the bottle.
Maddesa had dined so often on board the ships be-
fore that he was quite perfect in our customs ; and
upon this occasion took great charge of the chiefs
at his end of the table, speaking sometimes in one
language, and sometimes in the other. Observing
Jeema eating a slice of ham without mustard, he
called to Captain Maxwell's servant, and pointing
to Jeema, said, " Tom, take mustard to him."
Wlien the dessert was put on the table, and the wine
decanters ranged in a line, they exclaimed in as-
tonishment, " Moo eeyroo noo sackee — six kinds
of sackee 1"
After sitting about an hour and a half after din-
ner, and drinking with tolerable spirit, they rose to
depart, but were told this could never be allowed,
as the Eoglish custom was to sit a much longer
Loo-CHOo. 233
time. Tl>oy roprosonted that the snn had set, and
they would never he able to find their way on
'shor^, but would all be drowned in making the at-
tempt. This alai'ming difliculty was easily obvi-
ated by a promise of the Ambassador's barge, and
they sat do^^ii again evidently very well pleased to
be persuaded.
While this discussion was going on between
Captain Maxwell and his guests, Maddera kept
his seat, and looked about him in liis observant
way to discover what was likely to be the issue of
the adventure. Having observed that in general
we were anxious to keep our company as long
at table as possible, he naturally enough thought
we would not let this opportunity pass of enter-
taining the chiefs according to our peculiar fashion.
He appeared to have settled this question with
himself just as the chiefs resumed their seats, for
rising half off his chair, and with a mixture of arch-
ness and simplicity, as if lie had just made an amu-
sing discoveiy, cried out in English, " When all
drunk then go ashore !" Though Maddera, as wHl
be seen, was not quite right in his guess, there was
enough of truth in his remark to raise a general
laugh among tliose who understood him. He join-
ed in the mirth excited by his own joke so hearti-
ly that it was some time before he could explain to
the chiefs what he had said ; by this time they
were in a tolerably merry humour themselves, and
received it in good part, though their enjoyment of
the jest was evidently dashed by a little apprehen-
sion of the fate which Maddera anticipated.
The health of his Royal Highness the Prince
Regent was then drunk in a bumper, all the com-
pany standing in the most respectful manner. This
t34 LOO-CHOO.
was follow<Hl by the healtli of tho Kini^ of Loo-
Choo, wliich was drunk \vdth Kimilar iioiumrs. On
sitting doAvn after this toast, the cliicfri ronfeiTed
with one another a few minutes across the table,
and then all rose to propose Captain MaxweU's
health, their wishes being explained by Maddera.
Wlien they sat down. Captain Maxwell proposed
the health of the chiefs, but when we in turn stood
up to drink this toast, they rose likewise ; and it
cost us some trouble to convince them it was right
they should be seated on the occasion.
These four bumpers made all the party very
meny, and it was now intimated, that as all the
usual formalities had been observed, they might
drink as much or as little as they pleased. They
then lighted their pipes at Captain Maxwell's re-
quest, laughed, joked, and seemed so happy, that
it was agreed on all hands, that conviviality was
nowhere better understood than at Loo-Choo. Af-
ter a time, they played some native games, at our
request, the ultimate object of which, like the games
of other countries, was drinking ; a cup of wine
being the invariable forfeit ; and that everytliing
might be strictly in character, some of their own
little cups were put on table. The first game was
this : One person held the stalk of Iiis tobacco-pipe
between the palms of liis hands, so that the pipe
might roll round as he moved his hands, which
were kept over liis head in such a manner that the
pipe was seen by the company, but not by himself;
After tm-ning it for a short time, he suddenly stop-
ped, and tlie person to whom the bowl of the pipe
liappened to be directed was obliged to drink a cup
of wine. Another was a Cliinesc game : one per-
son held Ixis liand closed over liis head, and theii
Loo-CHOO. 235
brought it quickly down before hlin wHh one or
more fingers extended ; the person lie was play-
ing with called out the number, and if he guessed
right, he had to drink the cup of wine.
After these and other games, which caused a good
deal of noisy mirth, were over, it was proposed to
adjourn to the quarter-deck where the sailors were
dancing. Before leaving the cabin, however, the
chiefs entertained us with a Loo-Choo dance round
the table. Maddera placed himself at the liead
before Ookooma, while the others ranged them-
selves in a line behind ; he began by a song, the air
of which was pleasing enough, and nearly at the
same time commenced the dance, which consisted
principally in throwing the body into various pos-
tures, and twisting the arms and hands about. The
head was made to incline slowly from side to side,
so aa almost to touch the shoulders ; while the feet
were moved with a slight shuffling motion, and an
occasional long sweeping step to one side and then
back again ; but the perfection of the dance appear-
ed to be in the proper use of the hands and body.
Although Maddera was the leader both in the dance
and song, he was occasionally joined in the words
by several of the others, the whole party always
repeating the last word several times over, and in
this way went several times roimd the table.
Maddera'e dancing, though somewhat fantastical
at times, was upon the whole very graceful ; his
singing also was in good taste. The others danced
clumsily, though in good time, and all joined with
great spirit in the chorus.
As the ship was gaily illuminated, and many
groups of the sailors dancing on the deck, the
chiefs were much i)leased with the liveliness of the
236 Loo-CHOO.
8cenc. After watching the dance of the fleamen fbr
a few minutes, Maddera, who, to use a common
phrase, was up to everytliing, ran amongst them,
seized one of the dancers by the shoulders, and
pushing him on one side, took his place, and kept
up the reel with the same spirit, and exactly in the
same style and step as the sailors. The other
dances were left off, the music played with double
Bpirit, and the whole ship's company assembled
round Maddera, cheering and clapping hands till the
reel was over. The chiefs joined in the applause,
not less surprised than we were at this singular
fellow's skill ; for his imitation of the sailors' pecu-
liar steps and gestures was as exact as if he had
lived on board ship all his life. The ofi&cers and
midshipmen then danced together, after which the
chiefs, unasked, and with a sort of intuitive polite-
ness, which rendered everything they did appro-
priate, instantly stepped forward, and danced, as
they had before done in the cabin, several times
round the quarter-deck, to the unspeakable delight
of the sailors.
On returning to the cabin to tea, the chiefs amu-
sed themselves with a sort of wrestling game ;
Ookooma, who had seen us placing ourselves in
sparring attitudes, threw himself suddenly into the
boxer's position of defence, assuming at the same
time a fierceness of look which we had never before
Been in any of them. The gentleman to whom he ad-
dressed himself happening to be a boxer, and think-
ing that Ookooma really wished to spar, pre}>ared
to indulge him with a round. Maddera's quick
eye, however, saw what was going on, and by a
word or two made the chief instantly resume his
wonted sedateness. We tried in vain to make
ix)o-CH(X). 237
Madilera explain what were the magical words
which he had used ; but he seemed anxious to
turn our thoughts from the subject, by saying,
" Loo-Choo man no fight ; Loo-Choo man write,
No fight, no good fight; Ingerish very good ; Loo-
Choo man no fight." Possibly he considered Oo-
kooraa was taking too great a liberty ; or perhaps
he thought even the semblance of a battle inconsist-
ent with the strict amity subsisting between us.
However this be, he showed clearly enough that he
possessed authority over tlie senior cliiefs.
Before our guests left the ship, Captain IVIax-
well, who had often remarked the satisfaction with
which the natives received any attention shown to
their children, ordered a large plum-cake, ])aked
for the occasion, to be brought to him, which he
divided into slices, proportioned to the numbers of
the respective families of each of his friends. The
chiefs were exactly in a fit mood to feel this kind-
ness, and expressed themselves, as may be suppo-
sed, very waimly upon the occasion, wrapped up
their portions of cake in their long sleeve-pockets,
and went away singing, cheering, and waving their
caps all the way to the shore.
The early part of the next morning was spent at
the Observator)'-. I afterwards walked in the coun-
try, in company with one of my officers, without
being observed ; for the chiefs had not yet recover-
ed from the effects of last night's gaiety. We had
not gone a mile, however, before Jeeroo overtook
us. Our intention had been to gain the brow of a
neighbouring hill, from whence we imagined tliere
must be a good view of the palace and the neigh-
bouring country ; but although Jeeroo was the
most obliging creature in the world on every other
238 Loo-ciioo.
occasion, lie stoutly resisted our goin<^ beyond the
usual limits. Wo tried to overcome liis objections
by an assurance that we meant no harm, and would
only go to the adjoining height. He would listen
to no such promises, and as we still walked
slowly on, sent off a messenger for assistance;
but before this reinforcement arrived, we had
turned back, to the poor fellow's great relief. Al-
though the particular object proposed had been
frustrated, we succeeded in part by obtaining a
nearer view of the palace. It was so much inclosed
by trees, that parts of it only could be seen, but it
was undoubtedly a very large building. On re-
turning we met Hackiebuco, puffing and blowing
up the hill, having instantly set out to overtake
us, on being told by Jeeroo's messenger what
we were proposing to do. He had drank a good
deal of wine the day before on board, and ho-
nestly confessed that he had been a little " weety,"
and that his head now ached very much. Short-
ly after he joined our party, as we were pass-
ing near a village, two women at the turning of
a road came unexpectedly upon us from a cross
path. They were talking so earnestly to one
another that they perceived no one till within a
few yards of us. Their alarm was then great;
and after pausing for a moment in stupified asto-
nishment, they threw down the baskets which
they were carrying on their heads, and fled into
the woods. Our two companions were mightily
rliscomposed at this rencontre, and would listen
to no reasoning upon the absurdity of their ap-
prehensions, looking quite miserable till the in-
terdicted subject was changed. We T\'ent after-
wards to the high gi-ound behind the hospital, in
Loo-CHOO. 239
order to fill up by eye the edges of the reefe in our
charts, for which regular triangles could uot be
taken in the survey. Wliile I was thus enpraired,
Mr Cliftbrd endeavoured to leani from Jeeroo wlje-
ther or not the king lived in the large house spo-
ken of before ; as usual, he denied any personal
knowledge of the king, and would neither say
what the house was, nor tell who resided there.
A peasant, however, who happened to be pass-
ing by, proved more communicative, and was
cheerftilly giving all the information we desired,
when Jeeroo, observing what the countryman was
about, reprimanded him sharply for his loquacity,
and sent him off instantly. Beyond such a reproof
as this, we never saw any punishment inflicted at
Loo-Choo ; a tap -with a fan, or an angry look, be-
ing the severest chastisement ever resorted to, at
least as far as \ve ever saw or could hear about. In
giYing their orders, the chiefs were mild in manner
and expression, though quite decided ; and the peo-
ple always obeyed them with alacrity and cheerful-
ness. There seemed to exist the greatest respect
and confidence on the one hand, which was met
by correspondent consideration and kind feeling
on the other.
About noon of the same day, while Mi-s Loy, the
boatswain's wife, was employed at the well washing
clothes, at a moment when everybody else happened
to be out of the way, she was visited by a Loo-Choo
lady, accompanied by a numerous guard of men.
She described her visitor as being about eighteen
years of age, very richly dressed in blue silk robes,
fair in complexion, with small dark eyes, and
not without beauty ; her hair was of a glossy jet
black, made up into a knot on one side of the head,
240 LOO-CHOO.
with a siTiall white flower stuck in the midst of it.
She wore a scarlet Katin girdle tied in a larp^e loop
at the side, and on her feet, which were of the na-
tural size, were laced richly-embroidered sandals,
shaped like those of the men. Mrs Loy, with a
laudable spirit of inquiry, wished to examine the
particulars of this lady's dress ; but the timid stran-
ger shrunk back from the foreigner's touch. In-
deed, Mrs Loy, with her arms bare, and covered
with soap-suds, though an excellent person in her
way, was not exactly the individual example best
calculated to represent the ladies of England in fo-
reign parts.
On all occasions, when we met with natives of
superior intelligence, we endeavoured as much
as possible to procure some information respect-
ing their literature, and the state of education and
of knowledge in the country. Our means of com-
munication were of course much circumscribed
by our imperfect acquaintance with the language,
and the interpreter, from his low station, had not
the ideas, and consequently not the words, which
we stood in need of in making these inquiries.
Of this interesting subject, therefore, we could
get but few satisfactory accounts ; the natives told
us they had but few books in their own language,
by far the greater number being Chinese. The
young meii of rank, it seems, are sometimes sent to
China to be educated, and Jeeroo had been there
when a boy. None, however, but the upper classes
understand the oral language of China, and the
peasantry are in general ignorant both of the spo-
ken and written Chinese languages.
Whenever we were occupied in making astro-
nomical observations, the natives retired a consi-
LOO-CHOO, 241
derable distance, as they were told tliat tlte leabt
motion disturbed the surface of the quicksilver, and
prevented our taking observations. They had the
most laudable patience, and sometimes sat still and
silent for several hours together, till invited to
come forward to look at the instruments. Whilst
we were making observations this morning, Ookoo-
ma and Jeeroo, with their friends, came to the Ob-
servatory, and we observed them to be in great
distress. Upon our begging to know the cause,
they explained that Captain Maxwell, during his
ride, had fallen down, or rather that the horse, be-
ing too weak for his weight, had fallen with him,
and that his finger was broken. A Loo-Choo doc-
tor, it appeared, had gone on board, who, they
said, would soon effect a cure. We repaired im-
mediately to the Alceste, where we found that
the Loo-Choo surgeon had placed Captain Max-
well's broken finger in a thick paste made of eggs,
flour, and some other substance which he brought
along with him. Hfi then wrapped the whole in
the skin of a newly-killed fowl. The skin dried in
a short time, and held the paste firm, by which
means the broken finger was kept steady in its
place. The doctor went through a number of ce-
remonies, such as feeling the pulse, and looking at
the tongue ; being accompanied by an attendant,
who carried under his arm a box filled with me-
dicines.
Wliile Captain Maxwell was sitting in a shed
after the accident, waiting for the boat to carry
him on board, he was surprised to see a person
enter the door on all fours, half dead with terror.
This turned out to be the surgeon, who had been
instantly sent for, and who, in Common with the
VOL. I. X
24-2 Loo-ciioo.
cliicfs, was hoiTor-stnick at tlie ac<;i(lent. The Es-
culapius, liowever, soon recovered his composure
and confidence, on observing that althou^di tlic fin-
ger was broken, and one of the joints dislocated, his
patient was perfectly tranquil.
A deputation of the chiefs went on board the
Alceste early next morning, to announce that the
Prince of the island, the person next in rank to
the King, and lieir-apparent to the throne, meant
to come on board the frigate to pay a yisit of ce-
remony, and to inquire 'after Captain Maxwell's
health. Accordingly, at noon, four of the senior
chiefs, dressed in their best state silks, and caps,
came on board to announce the approach of the
Prince, who, in about half an hour afterwards, we
could observe through our glasses, was brought in
a closed sedan-chair to his boat. A lane was then
opened for him, through a vast concourse of people,
to whom he seemed almost as rare a sight as to us.
The state-boat, which was a large flat-bottomed
barge, covered with an awning of dark-blue silk,
with white stars on it^ and not unlike a hearse in
appearance, was preceded by two other boats, bear-
ing flags, with a long inscription upon each : in the
bow stood an officer of justice, carrying a lackered
bamboo, and in the stem a man beating a gong.
A vast number of other boats were in attendance,
some bearing presents, others following out of mere
curiosity. One of the chiefs rowed forward to the
frigate, to present the Prince's visiting-card to Cap-
tain Maxwell. It was made of red paper, forty-eight
inches long, and eleven wide, wath an inscription
upon it, of which the following is a translation : —
" The gi'eat personage, Ko Heang, Extender of the
Laws of Loo-Choo, bows his head, and worsliips."
ixjo-CHOO. 843
Shortly afterwards the Prince's barge approached ;
upon which the rigging of both ships was manned,
always a very striking ceremony, and a salute of
seven guns iSred. When he came on boaid, he was
received with a guard, and another salute. Captain
Maxwell, who had been confined to the cabin ever
since his accident, ordered me to receive the Prince,
which I accordingly did at the top of the accom-
modation ladder. As there had been no previous
arrangement made respecting the manner of his re-
ception, I merely took off my hat and made him a
bow ; but was surprised to see all the chiefs fall on
their knees the instant he came on the quarter-deck.
I took his hand from one of the chiefs who had
assisted him up the ladder, and conducted him to
the cabin.
The Prince, when seated beside Captain Maxwell,
made several anxious inquiries about his wounded
hand, and expressed much regret that so disagree-
able an accident should have occurred during his
stay at Loo-Choo. He then called to one of his
attendants for his pouch, and having prepared a
pipe, presented it to Captain Maxwell. The usual
questions as to our ages and families having pass-
ed, he expressed a wish to see the wonderij of the
ship. Orders were accordingly given to prepare
for his reception ; the decks were cleared, and the
ship's company ranged in separate divisions. Mean-
while he expressed a wish to look round the cabin,
and was very soon attracted by the globes, gene-
rally the first object that engaged the attention of
the natives. He begged to be shown Injeery,
(England); Loo-Choo; Quantoong (China); Ni-
phou (Japan) ; Manilla, and Pekin. The chiefs who
stood apart, would not sit down in his presence, and
24«4' LOO-CHoo.
never spokg tp him without kneeling^ sometimes
on one knee, generally on both. As soon aa the ne-
cessary arrangements had been made the Prince
proceeded roimd the decks. He observed every-
thing with attention, but without betraying any
great degree of curiosity. One of his earliest in-
quiries was about the boatswain's wife, of whom he
had heard from the chiefs, and asked if it were
possible to see her. Nothing was easier than to
giatify him in this wish, for the good lady had been
long prepared, and was waiting in her gayest attire
to be presented. He stood for a moment looking at
lier with an expression of pleased surprise ; after
which, as if suddenly recollecting that this must be
somewhat embarrassing to the poor woman, who
stood curtseying to the very ground, he drew his
fan from his breast, and with an aii* of the utmost
politeness, held it to her and begged she would
accept it. Mrs Loy again cmtsied in acknowledg-
ment of the honour intended her, and the Prince
sent her the fan by Maddera.
Some confused account of the fire-engine having
been communicated to him, he asked to see it work-
ed. In less than a minute a dozen of the firemen,
with their buckets full of water, were at his side,
the engine filled, and a stream of water spouted over
the lower mast-heads, to his infinite astonishment
and delight. He had heard also of an African
negro who was on board, and begged that he might
be sent for. When this man, who was a fine speci-
men of his race, was brought forward, the Prince
looked exceedingly surprised, and probably doubt-
ed whether or not the colour was natuial, as one of
his people was sent to rub poor blackee's skin with
a clotli. The grms, the shot, and above all, the
LOO-CHOO. 245
iron cables, excited his closest attention : nothing,
indeed, escaped his scrutiny. Wherever he passed,
the natives, who had flocked on board in crowds,
fell on their knees, and clasping their hands be-
fore their breasts bowed their heads till they nearly
touched the deck.
On returning from this excursion, the Prince
was invited to a cold collation prepared for him in
the foremost cabin, though for a long time he refused
to sit down, nor could we conjecture what was his
objection. At length, however, he complied, while
the chiefs, who it appeared were neither allowed
to sit down nor to eat in his presence, retired to
the after-cabin ; but he insisted on Captain Max-
well and me being seated. He tasted every dish
which was offered him, but seemed afraid of the
wines, having probably heard enough of the jovial
proceedings of the 19th. In about half an hour he
rose and went to the after-cabin ; upon which the
chiefs and the people of his suite, to the number
of fifteen, took their places at the table which the
Prince had left, and speedily made ample amends
for the temperance and moderation of his royal
highness.
When this party returned to the after-cabin,
the official business of the day, for none of these
visits ever passed off without some formal diplo-
matical conference, was entered upon by Captain
Maxwell's retm-ning thanks, in the name of the
English government, for the liberal manner in
which his Majesty's ships had. been supplied with
every kind of refreshment; and for the kind as-
sistance rendered us in all other respects. The
Prince replied that the King of Loo-Choo was
most anxious to do everything ia his power for
'il-O LOO-CHOO.
llio King (A England's slilps. Upon this Captain
Maxwell observed, that being fully persuaded of
tins he was very desirous of seeing his M'ajesty,
for the pui"po8e of expressing in person his grati-
tude for the kindness with which he had been re-
ceived in this country. The Prince answered, that
it was quite contrary to the laws and customs of
Loo-Choo for any foreigner of whatever rank to be
admitted to the King's presence unless expressly
sent by his own sovereign, as the bearer of com-
plimentary presents.
Such a declaration, coming from authority so
high, was considered by Captain Maxwell as con-
clusive; and as nothing farther could now with any
propriety or delicacy be said on the subject, tlio
hope of opening a communication with the court,
which had been so anxiously desired, was at last
reluctantly given up. The Prince, however, most
unexpectedly, in a few minutes resumed the sub-
ject, by saying that an ofi&cial letter would be writ-
ten to the King of England, if Captain Maxwell
would undertake to deliver it ; his answer of course
was that nothing would give him more satisfaction
than being made the bearer of such a communica-
tion: that although ho had earaestly desired the
honour of paying his respects to his Majesty the
King of Loo-Choo, yet from the moment he
heard it was contraiy to the customs of the coun-
try, he had ceased to conceive himself entitled to
such an honour. As soon as it was inteqireted
that Captain Maxwell was willing to cany the letter
alluded to, and that he had finally relinquished his
desire to see the King, the Prince rose and pressed
Captain Maxwell's hand between his, while all
the chiefs fell on their luiees in a circle round him,
LOO-CHOO. 24.7
HhoTVliig by the expression of tlieli- countenances,
how gieat their anxiety had been, from whicli they
were at once relieved by Captain Maxwell's judi-
cious acquiescence with theu- wishes : the Prince,
in particular, who had looked full of anxiety du-
ring this discussion, became in a moment quite
cheerful and at his ease.
But when the Prince again alluded to the letter,
it appeared that although it was to be addressed to
the King, it was to be written by the minister,, and
not by the King of the Island. This altered the
case materially, and the diplomatists were once
more at sea. Captain Maxwell said it was his duty
to inform the Prince most respectfully, that such
a letter could not, with propriety, be received, as
it would be an indignity to his own Sovereign to
present him with a letter written by another king's
minister. The Prince seemed sensible of the
propriety of this view of the case the moment it
was stated ; and calling the chiefs round him,
entered into one of their longest discussions ; at
the close of which, they declared themselves in-
competent to decide upon so very weighty a mat-
ter, but that the Piince would consult with the
King, whose pleasure would be communicated in
a few days. Captain Maxwell expressed his will-
ingness to abide by his Majesty's decision, as far as
it was consistent with the respect due to his own
government. The Prince seemed entirely satisfied
with this answer, and said something to the chiefs,
upon which tliey again fell upon their knees before
Captain Maxwell, notwithstanding all his efforts to
prevent them.
In the early part of this curious interview the pre-
sent wliich the Prince had brought was displayed in
248 Loo-CHOO.
the cabin, at least such parts of it as wore capable
of being thus exhibited. The whole consisted of two
bullocks, three hogs, three goats, and a quantity of
vegetables, fruit, oranges, charcoal, eggs, and sweet
potatoes ; besides fifteen webs of the cloth of the
island, thirty fans, and twelve pipes. The Prince
said he had sent a present to me, which I found
to consist of half the above-mentioned good things.
While the Prince was looking over the books and
other things in the cabin, a picture of his Majesty
King George the Third was shown to him. As
the interpreter happened not to be present, we
could not immediately explain who it was intended
to represent, till it occurred to us to join our hands
together, and bow to the picture in the Loo-Choo
manner : the Prince, with the characteristic readi-
ness of his country, saw instantly what was meant,
and tm-ning towards the picture, made it a low and
respectful obeisance.
His suite consisted of several chiefs whom we
had not seen before, besides six personal attend-
ants, two of whom always stood behind to fan him
and to light his pipe. These men, who from their
dress and manner appeared to be merely servants,
derived a sort of rank from being about the Prince's
person ; for when the chiefs sat down to table after
he had left it, these attendants stood by as if ex-
pecting to be invited to sit down also ; but Mr
Clifford, to whom Captain Maxwell had given the
party in charge, having observed how particular
the Loo-Chooans were with respect to distinctions
of rank, conceived it would be improper to ask
them to be seated, even when Jeema requested
him to do so. Suspecting there was some mistake,
he applied to Maddera, who said it was perfectly
Loo-CHOO. 249
con*e<?t, upon which they were Invited to sit down
along with the rest.
We had never succeeded In obtaining from the
natives any satisfactory account of former visitors ;
but as the Prince was thought a likely person to
be in possession of the desired information, we
wore iu great hopes of liearing what we wanted
from him, and various questions were put to him
aipon the subject. He said a vessel belonging to
some strange nation liad been here about twenty
years ago ; but that she had gone away immediate-
ly, without holding any communication with the
court. This must have been the Pandora schooner,
in whicli Captain Broughton visited Kapakiang in
July, 1797, after he had been wrecked in his Ma-
jesty's ship Providence, on the island of Typinsan.
He said that he knew of no other stranger who had
visited Loo-Choo. On being sounded as to bis
kjiowledge of other countries, he declared he knew
nothing of the people whom we called French or
English, or any nation indeed but the Chinese, Co-
rean, and Japanese. Something was said about
Manilla, and as that country is not very remote, it
is possible that an accidental communication may
have occurred between it and Loo-Choo. Their
accounts, however, were all vague and unsatisfac-
toiy, and it is not impossible that we ourselves may
have first suggested these names, and afterwards
ascribed their use to the natives, a natural and fre-
quent somce of error on such occasions.
In Captain Broughton's Voyage, book H., an ac-
count is given of his visit to Napakiang. He was
received with great kindness by the inliabitants,
who supplied his wants, but objected to his landing,
and sent back to the schooner some of the officers
250 LOO-CHOO.
who had been sent on shore to examine the town.
We found Captain Broughton's account of the
people quite accurate.
Nothing, however, in the adventures of this day
excited such universal interest as Maddera's full
and explicit assumption of his long-concealed
rank. He came on board for the first time dressed
in the robes and hatchee-matchee of a chief ; and
instead of keeping in the back-ground as hereto-
fore, like one of the common people, he not only
took precedence of our old friends, but during the
discussions in the cabin with the Piince, maintain-
ed in every respect a decided superiority over
them all. It was very remarkable, too, that while
the others were discomposed by the Prince's pre-
sence, and were seen crouching on their knees
every time they ventured to address him, Mad-
dera, though always respectful, was quite at his
ease, and neither in listening to, nor addressing the
Prince showed the least embarrassment : we could
not, therefore, help fancying that he must have
been accustomed to the society of the palace. It
was no less remai-kable, that the Prince referred
much oftener to him than to any of the chiefs, and
always listened to him with far greater attention
than to any one else. Whether Maddera owed such
distinction to his elevated rank, or to the ascen-
dency of his talents and attainments, or to the
accidental circumstance of his having had better
opportunities of knowing our language and cus-
toms than any other of the natives, we could not
pretend to determine : but he admitted, when in-
teiTogated upon the subject, that he had in fact
often seen the Prince before, while all the other
chiefs confessed to us, that until to-day they had
not loiown him even by sight.
LOO-CHOO. 251
No sooner was the Prince fairly placed in his
sedan-chair, and lifted out of his boat by his peo-
ple, than Maddera came on board, and entered
vvdth great good-humour into the jokes which were
poured upon him from all sides upon the subject
of his newly found character. He declined tell-
ing why he had kept his rank so long a secret,
but it was sufficiently obvious, that his main ob-
ject had been to establish an intimacy with all
the different classes on boaid the ships. In this
he completely succeeded; for he had advanced
gradually in his acquaintance, first with the sailors,
then the midshipmen, next with the officers, and
last of all with the captains. By this means he
gained the confidence and good-will of each class
as he went along, and by rising in consequence
every day, instead of putting forward all liis claims
at once, acquired not only substantial importance
with us, but gained a much more intimate know-
ledge of our chai'acter and customs than he could
have hoped to do in any other way. Our opinion
of the other chiefs fluctuated fi'om day to day ;
whereas our esteem for Maddera never suffered
diminution. With a sort of intuitive and happy
discretion, he always did what the event proved to
be the most appropriate thing he could have done :
and by laying claim to no knowledge or merit
which he did not possess, but always keeping more
in the back ground than his friends thought there
was occasion for, he was sure never to forfeit any
good opinion which he had once gained.
Next day, Mr Clifford went along with me, for
the pui-pose of sketching the bridge, which, though
not above tlnee hundred yaids from the landing-
place, the chiefs had always objected to oui" ex-
252 Loo-CHOO.
amining. We took Jeeroo with us without telling
him our object, which ho no sooner disrovered than
he becanne quite alarmed, and sent off for Madders,
who came to us immediately, and upon learning
that nothing further was proposed than a mere ex-
amination of the structure of the arch, said we might
go on ; liaving first made us promise solemnly not to
proceed a step further. While Maddera was enter-
ing into this bargain with us, and making minute
and as I thought needless stipulations, I expressed
some impatience at his doubting our simple decla-
ration that nothing more was intended than what
we actually avowed: he smiled good-humouredly,
but said he must do his duty ; nor would lie leave
us till the matter was arranged in his own way.
As soon as he was satisfied on this point, he said
something to Jeeroo and left us ; but turning
back again in a few minutes, he came up to Mr
Clifford, and pointing to me, whispered, " Cap-
tain no sulky ?" meaning, no doubt, to express
his apprehension that I had been angry at the
conditions so positively required of us. Mr Clif-
ford, having assured him that nothing could pos-
sibly make me sulky with so obliging and good
a friend, detained him for a moment to ask him
what it was he feared? what he had seen in us
to excite such constant dread of our going near
the town ? He replied, " Loo-Choo woman see
Ingeree man ; Loo-Choo woman cry I" He then
left us ; and Jeeroo, who remained in a boat close
to the bridge while we were employed in measuring
and drawing it, was highly interested by our ac-
counts of the great age of our venerable Sovereign,
and of the number of liis family, circumstances
which excited his astonishment and admiration.
LOO-CHOO. 253
He talked quite freely while the topic was the Kini,^
of England, but the instant the slightest turn in the
conversation was made towards the King of Loo-
Choo, our fiiend, communicative enough in every
other point, became impenetrable upon tliis. " He
did not know," he said, " how old he was, nor
how many children he had ;" in short, he seemed
scarcely to admit that he had ever before heard of
the King of his own country. From Maddera,
however, who had no concealments, we learnt
afterwards that the King was an old man, with
seven children. It was absurd enough that none of
the chiefs would inform Captain Maxwell whether
or not the Prince who visited the ships yesterday
had any children.
Jeeroo, who was a merry light-hearted fellow,
sung several songs to us during this excursion, and
told us that his countrymen were very fond of
music ; but gave us no satisfactory information re-
specting musical instruments : neither did we ever
see any. The natives almost all sung, and we
heard several very sweet and plaintive airs. They
had also many jovial drinking songs with noisy
choruses, one of which was written doT^ii from
Jeeroo's dictation, inscribed on a drinking-cup
which he presented to me. It is as follows : —
" Tywacku tawshu, shee kackufing,
" Chaw ung, itchee shaw, shooha neeburu ;
" Ting shi, you byee, chi tarn shu ninnee
♦' Noobu cadsee meesee carra shaw jeerco
" Shing coodee sackee oochi noo shing."
The characters on the cup being intei-preted, sig-
nify, " Tywacku, being inspired by a jar of wine,
wrote an hundred pages of verses without end.
At the market town of Chaw-ung he entered a
wine shop to sleep. The Emperor happening to
VOL. I. Y 8
254> I.OO-CHOO.
summon liim at this moment, he, in his haste to
obey the mandate, forgot to put on his upper gar-
ment, and rushing into the royal presence, ex-
claimed, ' Here am I, tlie wine-loving immortal I' "
On the 25th of October, being the anniversary
of his Majesty's accession to the thi-one, the ships
were dressed in colours, and a royal salute fired.
This splendid exhibition of flags and streamers,
a beautiful sight at any time, if seen from a
short distance, produced a gieat effect upon the
natives, who liad never seen any other flags than
a single ensign hoisted on Sundays, on board each
of the ships. They had been previously informed
that there would be certain ceremonies in honour
of our King on this day, and great numbers of
people had been assembled from all parts of the
Island to witness the sJiow. As this moniing had
also been fixed upon for returning the Prince's
visit, we left the Alceste at one o'clock, form-
ing a procession of four boats, each bearing flags.
Captain Maxwell was accompanied by twelve of
his oflScers and young gentlemen, and six sent
along with me from the Lyi^a, all dressed in full
uniform. We entered the harbour, and landed at
the same part of the causeway as before, where we
found the chiefs in attendance, as on the occasion
of our visit on the 23d of last month.
The Prince advanced a few yards on the out-
side of tlie gate, and having taken Captain 3Iax-
well's hand, conducted liim to the temple, where
an ingenious device was adopted in order not to
infi'inge the etiquette, which requires that none but
persons of high rank shall be seated in ])resence of
the Blood Royal. Tlie temple, as I have before
described, was divided into several rooms by ranges
LOO-CHOO. 255
of columns, capable of being connected at pleasure
by moveable partitions. When these pannels were
removed there etill appeared to be three separate
apai-tments, or at least there was separation enough
to save the Prince's official dignity, while, at the
same time, no person in the other rooms could feel
himself excluded, since the division by the pillars
might be considered merely nominal. The feast
was sumptuous, consisting of twelve regular cour-
ses, besides tea and sackee at short intervals. There
were many dishes new to us, principally of meat,
dressed in various ways in large bowls.
It having been thought necessary to make some
return for the presents brought on board by the
Prince two days before, Captain Maxwell begged
his acceptance of several pieces of scarlet and blue
cloth, as well as samples of every species of our
manufacture, that could be scraped together, from
the finest damask to the coarsest sail canvass ; with
a very handsome set of cut crystal decanters and
glasses, and three dozen of wine of different sorts,
with several books, and a number of smaller articles.
He also requested the Prince to offer the King of
Loo-Choo, in his name, a cow and a bull calf of
the best English breed, as a humble offering of his
sense of the kindness which we had all experien-
ced. The Prince expressed much satisfaction at
tliis gift, saying that the calf being bom in the coun-
try, had become a great favourite with the na-
tives, and he had no doubt would prove in time of
essential benefit to the Island. My present con-
sisted of half the quantity of wine given by Cap-
tain Maxwell, a mirror taken from a dressing
stand, samples of English pens, ink, and paper, all
of which differ totally from those we met with
256
LOO-CHOO.
on thn Island, an atlas, and a small brass sextant ;
which latter present I was induced to include from
liavin;^ often witnessed the wonder and delight
it had invariably excited at the observatory. iVIr
John Maxwell, the commodore's son, to whom
the Prince had sent a present of cloth and pipes,
gave him a spy-glass and a map of London ; the
map was coloured, and round the edges were the pa-
laces, Greenwich Hospital, and other public build-
ings, all of which were examined with great atten-
tion. After his highness had looked over most of the
things, and satisfied himself with the explanations
given, he rose and said that a great deal too much
had been given ; to which we replied, that a great
deal too little had been given, and that these tilings
were not offered as being, in any respect, an equi-
valent for the supplies sent on board, but merely
as marlcs of our gi-atitude for the great kindness
and attention with which we had been received.
The follo^ving is a list of the supplies which we
received at Loo-Choo, and for which the natives
could not be prevailed upon to accept any sort of
payment.
List of Articles supplied at Loo-Choo.
Bullocks,
Alceste.
19
Lyra.
8
Pigs, .
Goats,
23
15
10
7
Fowls, .
216
102
Fish,
29
12
Eggs, .
920
455
Bags of sweet
Squashes,
potatoes, ,
59
34
27
14
Jars of sackee, each contj
about fifteen gallons,
lining
6
3
LOO-CHOO.
Baskets of oranges, .
'Bundles of gingerbread,
onions,
radislies,
celery, .
garlick, .
candles, .
wood,
charcoal,
Pumpkins,
Baskets of vermicelli,
Boxes of sugar,
Rolls of printed linen,
Bundles of paper.
Pipes finely japanned.
Alccstc.
9
8
16
30
12
8
7
16
20
60
7
2
14
6
50
257
Lyra.
4
3
8
12
5
4
3
8
15
30
3
1
7
3
30
During the time we sat at table to-day, the in-
terpreter was hardly ever called in, as Maddera
and Mr CliiFord contrived between them to explain
everything, if not as clearly as could have been
wished, yet we conceived in a more satisfactory
manner than could have been done tlu-ough the
medium of Jolm the Chinaman, of whose fidelity
we were never certain, and of whose discretion,
taste, and delicacy in conveying our sentiments,
we had many doubts.
The Prince, as soon as dinner was over, rose
and proposed the King of England's health, which
was accordingly drunk in a full cup of sackee. In
retmn, we gave the King of Loo-Choo. As the
Burgeon had desired Captain Maxwell, on account
of his accident, to drink no wine, we were very
temperate at the Prince's table ; but at the others
every art was used to circulate the wine-pot. Lit-
y2
258 LOO-CHoo.
tie persuasion, it is true, was required, for the
saekee, though not strong, was very good ; resem-
bhng, in some degree, weak punch. Ookoorna pre-
sided at the table occupied by the officers, and
Jeeroo at that where the midshipmen sat. One of
the chiefs having remarked on board, that when-
ever the King's health was drunk, whether of Eng-
land, or of Loo-Choo, the cups were always fairly
emptied, took advantage of this loyalty of senti-
ment, and gave " The King of Injeree's health"
three or four times over, to which, of course, the
officers were obliged to reply, by giving " The
King of Loo-Choo" as often. Finding this manoeu-
vre to answer so well, he carried it rather farther
than is customary with us on similar occasions, for,
observing the company somewhat backward in dis-
cussing a mess of sweet rice-meal porridge, which
had been placed before each of them, he stood up
with his bowl in his hand, and, calling out " King
of Injeree's health !" swallowed the whole, and in-
cited the rest of the company to follow his loyal
example.
The Prince seemed to enjoy the noise and mirth
of the other tables very much ; and he himself was
more cheerful and conversible than when we first
saw him, though naturally a silent man. Ookooma,
by acting his part as toastmaster, got, we thought,
a little tipsy ; for he came several times into the
state-chamber, where He talked a great deal loud-
er than was quite suitable to the occasion ; an in-
discretion of which the good-natured Prince took
no notice. When Ookooma came near my chair, I
whispered to him, " Ya weetee," — You are dnmk ;
he tmTied round, and, aflfecting to be angry, called
out, <' Weetee nang !" — I am not ! but his voice
Loo-CHOO. 259
and manner were in direct contradiction to this
assertion. His subsequent behaviour, however, when
the feast was over, was so orderly, tliat probably
he only pretended to be tipsy, in order to suit what
he might consider to be the convivial humour of
the moment.
On rising to depai't, the Prince led Captain INTax-
well by the hand, not only through the gate of the
temple, but about twenty yards further, along the
causeway : here he stopped and took leave. Cap-
tain Maxwell availed himself of this public oppor-
tunity to repeat, for the last time, his sincere thanks,
in the name of the English government, for the nu-
merous attentions and marks of kindness with which
we had been honoured at Loo-Choo. He requested
that these sentiments might be communicated offi-
cially to the King, and assured the Prince, in the
most earnest and respectful manner, that all the
circumstances of our reception and entertainment
should be stated to his own Sovereign. Upon
this assurance, the Prince bowed in a manner which
seemed to express much satisfaction at the pro-
mise. Captain Maxwell next observed, that he felt,
individually, so greatly honoured and obliged by
the particular attention which had been shown to
himself, and to the captain of the little ship, that
he hoped the Prince would deign to accept from
each of us a small mark of his respect and grati-
tude. He then took from his neck a small thermo-
meter, set in silver, and presented it to the Prince,
who leaned his head forward, and requested that
it might be hung round his neck by Captain Max-
well's own hands.
This may be supposed a curious place to hang
a thermometer, but we had learned duiiug our in-
260 Loo-cnoo.
tercoursc with tlic cliiefs, tliat some manac^ement
of tins kind was necessary whenever it was intend-
ed to offer them presents, as tlieir extreme delicacy
made them unwilling to accept anytliing- of value,
lest it might appear in the light of remuneration
for their liospitality. But whenever anything mere-
ly ornamental, or of little value, was oifered, parti-
cularly if worn about the person, no objection was
made. It thus became the practice, as the most
convenient method, to tie the proposed gift by a
ribbon round the neck ; so that after a time, every
one v/ore rings, seals, or other trinkets, ready for
such occasions. This thermometer was selected
as a present for the Prince, from its having parti-
cularly attracted his notice on board the Alceste.
After Captain Maxwell had given his little pre-
sent, the Prince turned to receive mine ; upon which
I put over his neck a cornelian seal, suspended by
a ribbon, m the manner described. He Avas so de-
lighted with these compliments, that instead of tm-n-
ing back, as strict etiquette probably required, he
again took Captain Maxwell's hand, and led him
along the whole length of the causeway tlu-ough
the crowd to the boat. He then stepped upon the
top of the parapet to see us roAv away.
As soon as we had put off, Captain Maxwell
ordered the boats to assemble, and that eveiy one
shoukl stand up,, and give tlu'ee hearty cheers. Ne-
ver was an order more promptly obeyed ; wliile
the Prince and the people looked quite amazed at
this novel mode of bidding adieu, but they all seem-
ed pleased and bowed several times, with their hands
closed and raised to their breasts. The natives, wlio
up to this moment had observed norliing on board
the ships but the utmost order and silence, were
LOO-CHOO. 861
quite confounded with this unexpected uproar. The
Prince remained on the parapet, and continued wa-
ving his fan to us as we rowed down the harbour,
as long as we could see him. The chiefs ran to the
end of the causeway, where they continued, sur-
rounded by a vast crowd of natives, waving their
handkerchiefs and fans till we were far from the
shore ; and on every side, the rocks, trees, houses,
and boats, were crowded with people cheering us in
the same manner as we went along. This brilliant
scene liad less novelty in it, to be sm-e, than the dis-
play which we had witnessed at the same place on
the twenty-third of last month ; but it was even
more pleasing on this occasion, for we had now
become acquainted with many of the individuals
forming the assemblage, and felt assured that their
expressions of kindness and respect were sincere.
At our fii-st visit, the natives being ignorant of our
intentions, were greatly alarmed at our appearance ;
and accordingly, though much curiosity was shown,
a profound silence and stillness prevailed over the
whole crowd, very different from the friendly shouts
and signs with which they greeted us as we pass-
ed among them to-day.
Precautions had been taken to prevent the ladies
fiom indulging then* curiosity as they had done on
the former occasion, not a single female face being
anywhere discernible amongst this great multitude,
probably the majority of the male inhabitants of the
island.
Of the population of Loo-Choo we could never
learn anything having the least pretensions to ac-
curacy. From the south point, to within five or
six miles north of Napakiang, an extent of six-
teen or eighteen miles, the country is highly cul-
262 Loo-ciioo.
tivatedj and almost entirely covored with houses.
All round Port Melville too there are populous
villages, but the north, north-east, and eastern dis-
tricts arc thinly peopled, and not cultivated to
any extent. We saw nothing like poverty or dis-
tress of any kind ; every one w^e met seeming con-
tented and happy. Not a single deformed person,
nor any one who bore indications of disease, Avas
seen, except a few marked with the small-pox.
As soon as it became dai'k both the Alceste and
Lyra were illuminated ; and at nine o'clock, after
a royal salute and a feu de joie had been fired, a
number of fire-works were let off from the yard-
arms. An immense concourse of the natives, who
had been apprised of our intentions, assembled on
the shore, highly delighted with this brilliant exlii-
bition.
The sick people, as well as the stores belong-
ing to the Alceste, were removed on board on the
morning of the 26th of October, and every pre-
paration made for our departure. While employ-
ed in concluding the last series of observations,
Maddera joined us, having in his hand the sextant
which I had given to the Prince the day before.
It seems he had received orders to make himself
acquainted with its use ; but a more hopeless en-
terprize, under such circumstances, could hardly
have been proposed. INIaddera, however, was not
a person to be daunted by difficulties ; on the con-
trary, he resolutely persevered in trying to make
observations Avith the sextant ; and the more the
difficulties were made apparent, the more arduous-
ly he laboured to overcome them. The progress
which he made in a few hours in the mere practi-
cal operation of taking angles and altitudes was
Loo-CHOO. 2G3
really surprising, Imt he was by no moans satisfied
^-ith this degree of proficiency, and entreated to
be taught how to apply it to some practical and
useful pm'pose, I endeavoured to confine him to
one subject, merely to ascertain the time of appa-
rent noon ; and I tliink succeeded in explaining to
liini how this was to be done. But I found it dif-
ficult to fix him, for he broke off from his work re-
peatedly to express liis regret at our approaching
departure: in which friendly sentiment he was
heartily joined by some of the chiefs, who came to
us quite out of spirits. Jeeroo, poor fellow, while
his companion INIaddera was learning practical as-
tronomy, had prepared a handsome dinner for us
under a tree near the obsei'vatory, to which farewell
feast he invited us when our observations were con-
cluded, and made us drink what he called " wack-
arittee," or the parting-cup, several times over.
An unusual number of visitors came to the obser-
vatory to-day, who stood by and saw the instru-
ments packed up, and sent off, vA\h looks of real re-
gret. They all expressed themselves very sony we
were going away so soon. One man brought INJr
Clifford, as a farewell gift, a curious drawing of the
Alceste, as she appeared on tlie twenty-fifth, dress-
ed in flags, executed he said by his son. All our
little favourites too, the cliildren, were mucli af-
fected by our preparations ; and tlie wonted hilari-
ty of the lower classes was quite gone.
Having taken our final leave of the shore, we
went to the Alceste, where we found the chiefs in
mournful conference with Captain Maxwell about
his departure. Before they went, he made each
of them a present of a finely-cut wine glass, which
he fancied they had long desired to possess ; but to
264 Loo-CHOO.
Ookooma, as the principal person, he gave a richly-
cut tumbler, inclosed in a red morocco case. This
was much beyond his expectations, and perhajw his
wishes, for he observed the wine giasses of the others
with a wistful eye. Captain Maxwell, perceiving
in a moment that his friend had set his heart upon
a wine glass also, opened the case, and pretending
that it had been accidentally omitted, placed one
inside the tumbler, to the chiefs great satisfaction.
Soon afterwards the whole party went on shore,
saying, before they left the ship, that in the morn-
ing the Bodzes woidd come on board in order to
perform some sacrifice. But as they never made
their appearance, it is probable the interpreter mis-
understood them, particularly as Isacha Sandoo
said, in his own language, " To-moiTow the ships
will go, and all the Loo-Choo people will pray for
them ;" which was probably all that the chiefs meant,
although the interpreter said the priests were to
come on board during the next day.
While we Avere at dinner, Maddera came into the
Alceste's cabin, for the purpose of asking me some
questions about the sextant. He was not aware
of om* being at dinner, and looked quite shockedi
at having intruded ; of course he was invited to sit
down, but no entreaties could prevail upon him to
do so ; being determined to show that his coming
at this moment was accidental. From the cabin he
went to the gun-room, to see his friend Mr Hopp-
ner, the junior lieutenant of the Alceste, with
whom he had formed a great friendship, and who
gave him a picture of the Alceste and some other
farewell presents ; upon which Maddera, who was
nmch affected, said, " To-morrow ship go sea — I
go my father house, — two davs distance : — when
Loo-CHoo. 265
I see my father, I show him your present, and I
tell him, Henry Hoppner all same as my brother,"
and bm-st into tears !
The officer here spoken of, is now well knottni
to the public, as one of the intrepid and perseve-
ring navigators, who have four times engaged in
the formidable enterprize of discovering a North-
West passage.
At daybreak on Sunday, the 27th of October
1816, we unmoored ; upon which the natives see-
ing us take up one of our anchors, naturally thought
we were going to sea immediately, and meant to
give them the slip, without bidding adieu. This
was very far from our intention ; but the alarm
spread immediately, and brought the chiefs off in
a great hurry ; not in a body, in their ordinary for-
mal way, but one by one, as they could find sepa-
rate canoes to paddle them from the shore. Old
Jeema called on board the L^Ta on his way to the
frigate ; he was a good deal agitated, and the tears
came into his eyes when I drew a ring from my
finger and placed it on his, in exchange for a
knife, which he took from his girdle to present to
me.
The other chiefs called alongside on their way
to the frigate, but they went on when I told them
I was just going to the Alceste myself. In the
meantime poor Maddera came on board with the
sextant in his hand ; he was in such distress that he
scarcely knew what he was about. In this distract-
ed state he sat down to breakfast with us, during
which he continued lighting his pipe and smoking
as fast as he could ; instinctively drinking and eat-
ing whatever was placed before him. In a little
while he recovered his composure in some degree,
VOL. I z
266 Loo-cnoo.
and asked what books it would ho necessary for
him to read, in order to understand the use of the
sextant ; I gave him a nautical almanack, and told
him he must understand that in tlio first instance :
he opened it, and attentively looking at the rows
of figures for a few minutes, lield up his hands in
absolute despair, being at last forced to confess it
a hopeless business ; he then put the sextant into
its case, and bade us farewell. Before leaving the
Lyra, he gave Mr Clifford his pipe and tobacco-
pouch, with a crystal ornament attached to it, say-
ing, as he held them out, " You go Ingcree, you
give this to your childs." Mr Clifford gave him
a few presents in retuni, and expressed his an-
xiety to be always remembered as his friend. iVIad-
dera, with great earnestness, and Avith the tears
streaming down liis cheeks, placed his hand seve-
ral times upon his heart, and cried, " Eedooshee,
eedooshee !" — My friend, my friend I
To me he gave a fan, and a large picture of a
man looking up at the sun, drawn, he said, by him-
self, probably in allusion to my usual occupation
at the observatory. After he had put off in his
boat, he stood up and called out several times,
*• Ingery noo choo sibitty yootusha," — I shall al-
ways remember the English people. When he went
to the Alceste, one of the chiefs remarked to him,
that he had come on board without his hatchee-
matchee, or his state-robes, and told him it was
not respectful to wait upon Captain Maxwell, for
the last time, in his ordinary dress ; pai'ticuliuly as
all the others were in full array. INIaddera, who,
poor fellow, had been too much concerned about
other matters to think of dress, was disti'essed at
this apparent neglect of propriety, and immediately
Loo-ciioo. 267
apolodzcd to Captain IMaxwell, who took him
.kindly by the hand, and, giving- liim a present, told
liini, he Avas ah\'ays much too happy to see him to
notice what dress he I\ad on.
On g-oing- to tlie Alceste, I found the chiefs seat-
ed in the cabin, all looking very disconsolate. We
tried in vain to engage them in conversation ; but
their wonted cheerfidness had quite deserted them :
and, indeed, it Vv'as natural that they should be so
affected, for, unlike their visitors, these simple peo-
ple could have had little experience of paiting
scenes.
I took this opportunity of giving each of the
chiefs some trinket, as a farewell present, and they
in return gave me their pipes, fans, and knives, as
memorials, accompanied by many friendly expres-
sions. ■Mutual assurances then passed between us,
of being long remembered, and the natives rose to
take their last leave of us. Ookooma, who, as
well as the others, was much agitated, endeavour-
ed to say something, but liis heart was full, and
he could not utter a word. The rest did net at-
tempt to speak ; and before they reached their boats,
they were all in tears. Maddera, who was the last
to quit the sliij), cried bitterly as he wrung the hands
of his numerous friends, who crowded round him,
and loaded him with presents.
While we were heaving up the anchor, the na-
tives assembled not only in canoes round the shijjs,
but in vast crowds along the neighbouring heights ;
and as we sailed away, they all stood up, and con-
tinued waving their fans and handkerchiefs till they
could no longer be distinguished.
CANTON.
CHAPTER VI.
CAPTAIN maxwell's ATTACK ON THE BATTERIES
AT CANTON, ON THE 12TH OF NOVEMBER, 1816.
On leaving oiir primitive and kind friends at
Loo-Choo, we steered directly across the Japan
sea, and having sailed between the Philippine Is-
lands and Formosa, made directly for the anchor-
age of Lintin, which takes its name from an island
lying opposite the mouth of the great river flow-
ing past Canton. On the 3d of November, 1816,
shortly after anchoring, we received despatches
from the British Factory, announcing the unsuc-
cessful issue of the Embassy, and the expected re-
turn of Lord Amherst. The failure of the mission,
it appeared, had disposed the Chinese authorities at
Canton to treat the interests of the British Factory
with great contempt, and in several instances to visit
his Majesty's peaceable subjects with insult and di-
rect injury. Next morning was received a copy of a
recent edict, or proclamation, of the Viceroy of Can-
ton : in this document, worded in the most offensive
terms, it was stated that the Ambassador would not
be permitted to embark in the river, but must find
his way as he best could to the ships, which were
to remain at anchor amongst the Ladrone Islands,
almost in the open sea. There was every reason
for supposing that this insulting mandate was a
gratuitous piece of impertinence on the pait of the
CANTON. 269
local aulhonties, not authorized by the Supreme Go-
1'ernment. In China everything is regulated by
custom ; and the precedent of the embassy under
Lord Macartney was more likely to be adhered to,
than that so inconvenient and degrading a mode of
embai'kation should be wantonly assigned to Lord
Amherst. The hostile sentiments of the Viceroy
towai'ds all foreigners, and especially the English,
had long been vv ell known to our establishment at
Canton ; and as these proceedings were precisely
what had been anticipated, the greatest anxiety was
felt by om* countrymen, and indeed by all the fo-
reign residents, as to the line of conduct which
Captain IMaxwell would adopt on the occasion.
Nothing could be conceived more dissimilar to
our recent occupations than the duties which now
devolved upon this officer. Instead of the pacific,
timid, hospitable Loo-Chooans, he had to deal with
the arbitrary and unsociable military authorities of
China, at no time very friendly, and at the present
moment professedly hostile to liis nation. The same
deliberate good sense, however, earned him suc-
cessfully through these diametrically opposite ser-
vices, and what in one instance took the character
of patient forbearance, became in the other the most
prompt and vigorous action. Both lines of conduct
were so admirably suited to the occasions respec-
tively, that had their order been reversed, as they
might readily enough have been by a less judicious
officer, the consequences must have been mischie-
vous in the highest degree. It should not be for-
gotten, that as neither our visit to Loo-Choo, nor the
discussions with the Chinese, could have been an-
ticipated, no specific instructions beforehand could
by any possibility have been given for the perform-
ance ol these services. The most peiplexing di-
z 2
270 CANTON.
lemmas, indeed, munt often occur in a profes-
sion, tlic extent of whose range is only limited by
that of tlie globe itself. But it is on such occasions
that the distinction between one officer and an-
other comes into play : that the man who dreads
and shuns respon8ilt)ility, or whose shoulders are
not broad enough to bear it when it happens to
fall on them, is crushed beneath the weight ; while
the professional genius of another will sport with
the difficulty, and, like Nelson, turn what to ordi-
nary eyes seems in-eparable disorder into the means
of enhancing his country's honour.
Shortly after the ships had come to an anchor
off Lintin, a Mandarin, in command of a fleet of
war junks, came on board the Alceste. He said
a pilot would be soon sent, together with the usual
permit, or Chop, as it is called, sanctioning the
entry of the ships into the river. But on the 7th,
three days afterwards, a Mandarin of much liigher
rank came to the frigate, expressly directed, he
said, by the Viceroy, to order us to remain wliere
we were, and on no account presume to approach
nearer the river's mouth. Captain Maxwell ex-
pressed great surprise at this rude message, and
argued the question the more earnestly, as tliis
Mandarin said he was in confidential communica-
tion with the Viceroy, and authorized by him to
make arrangements. It was in vain represented,
that the proceeding alluded to would be highly
indecorous, not only on account of the inconve-
nience and difficulty of communicating with the
ships anchored so far off; but being directly in the
teeth of an established precedent in the case of
Lord Macartney, such a line of conduct would
be a palpable insult to the present Ambassador.
It is material to mention that an edict of the
CANTON. 271
Emperor had been published some time before, in
wliich it was specified tliat tlie present Embassy
was to be treated in every respect exactly as tbc
former had been : and Captain Maxwell conceived
it improbable that the Emperor would recall his
own orders in this essential particular, when he had
ecmpulously adhered to them in every other. The
Mandarin, however, shook his head at all these
arguments, as if quite unconvinced ; but he was
too well-bred to give the only good reply — that
the proposed measure was actually intended as an
insult. Captain Maxwell, however, who saw this
clearly, gave him to understand, that whatever the
Viceroy, or even the Emperor himself, might be
disposed to do, lie was determined not to permit
any such indignity to pass with impunity. The
Mandarin, struck with this manner of viewing the
case, stoutly denied any disposition on the part of
Government to slight the Ambassador, but repeat-
ed that express orders had come from Pekin to for-
bid the entry of the ships.
The whole of this interview was interesting and
curious in a very high degree ; for it was evidently
a sort of experiment on the part of the Chinese to
discover wliat manner of man they had to deal with ;
and Captain Maxwell, who had an important duty
to fulfil, may be supposed to have been feeling his
way likewise, and endeavouring to discover to what
lengths fair words would reach, and how far, in
the event of the worst, it might be necessary to
bring the argument within the range of cannon-
shot. It was as fair a diplomatical skirmish, there-
fore, as could be, and to a spectator like myself,
amusing beyond description. The conversation was
carried on principally tln-ough the medium of a
272 CANTON.
Chinese interpreter, or linguist; but the Manda-
rin himself also understood some English, and
more than once shoAved, by the expression of his
countenance, that lie knew what was meant, even
before the interpreter had time to render the words.
When Captain Maxwell asked how it happened
that the commander of the fleet, who had visited
him on the 3d instant, had unck'rtaken to procure
pilots, Chops, and so out, if not duly authorised ?
*' Oh," replied the Viceroy's envoy, " that oflBicer
happens to bo partly a fool, and partly a wit ; he
was acting- the latter character when he came to
you, and merely wished to make sport ; he was only
quizzinof, I assure you, and had no authority." —
" Well," said Captain Maxwell in reply, " it may
be very well for such a fellow to take these liber-
ties ; but," added he, in a tone and manner which
made the Mandarin's button wag on the top of liis
bonnet, " I advise his Excellency the Viceroy not
to take example from his admiral, and attempt to
pass any such humours on me !" Our Chinese di-
plomatists exchanged expressive glances, and for
some time all was allowed to go on smoothly. The
next experiment which the Mandarin tried on Cap-
tain Maxwell's temper relattjd to what is called in
China a Security-merchant, a term which requires
a little explanation.
Every foreign ship which goes to Canton for the
purpose of trading is obliged, before commencing
business, to have a high bond or security for good
behaviour lodged by one of the great dealers in
tea, known by the title of Hong merchants. In
tlie event of any disturbance occurring on board
t})at ship, or any breach of the laws and eustoms
of the comitrv beinix committed bv her officers or
CANTON. 273
crew, the unhappy Security-meroliant has to pay
the penalty — sometimes in the shape of a large
fine of hard dollars to the Viceroy, and sometimes
in the less expensive shape of a round dozen or two
with the bamboo, inflicted in a manner which, were
the sufferer a European, would be the most hurt-
ful possible to his feelings and dignity, but which
in China, where it is said there is not much honour
to be tarnished, goes merely for so much drubbing ;
and the poor Hong merchant limps on board next
day, with tears in his eyes, to supplicate his indis-
creet constituents to behave better jn future, if not
in consideration of their own interest, &t least in
compassion to his poor bones.
As men-of-war, however, have nothing to do
with the commerce of the port ; as none, indeed, had
ever entered the river before, except the ships of
Lord Macartney's embassy, the idea of a Secu-
rity-merchant for a king's ship had never been
dreamed of till this occasion. The Mandarin,
not duly warned by the tone and manner of Cap-
tain Maxwell's first reply about the facetious admi-
ral, or more probably being misled by his uncom-
mon gentleness of manner, said it was the inten-
tion of the Viceroy not to allow the ships to re-
main longer, even at their present anchorage, un-
less they procured a Hong merchant forthwith to
answer for their good behaviour. " WTiat is it
you mean ?" said Captain Maxwell, warming a
little ; " let me hear that again, if you please." The
Chinese, not altogether at his ease, repeated that
security must immediately be lodged for the good
behaviour of the ships. " Are you aware," said
Captain Maxwall, " that this is a ship of war —
King George the Third of England's frigate the
274 CANTON.
Alceste ?" — " I did not distinctly understand,'"'
stammered out tlie Mandarin, avIio saw too late
tliat he A\as iu a scrape, and knew not for his life
how to get out of it ; "I wisJied to be better in-
formed — I wished merely to learn from you M-ljat
carj^o you brought — what kind of goods to dispose
of." — " Cargo ! — goods to dispose of !" exclaimed
Captain Maxwell, rising and striking the table "vvith
his clenclied hand, in admirably feigned anger —
'' Cargo, did you say ! — poAvder and shot, sir, are
the cargo of a Britisli man-of-war I Did you see
his Majesty's pendant flying at the mast-head?
If you did not, I desire you will take a good look
at it on your way to Canton, where you may tell
the Viceroy you have seen a flag that has never yet
been dishonoured — and please God, while it waves
over my head, it never shall !"
When Captain Maxwell began this address, tlio
Mandarin opene<l his eyes, and stai'ed amazedly at
him ; then rose half oft" his seat, and presently Avith
]>is hands shaking, as if the cold fit of an ague had
overtaken him, doft"ed his cap of office, and gave a
glance over his shoulder towards the stem ■windows,
to see whether, in extremity, lie had any chance of
making his escape. As Captain INIaxwell approach-
ed his climax al)out the flag, and struck the table a
second time, the IMandarin and interpreter both re-
treated, step by step, as far as the sides of the cabin
permitted them, where they stood with uplifted
hands, quite aghast, and in an ecstacy of terror. It
was with the utmost difficulty I kept my counte-
nance, for I knew, by a slight and almost imper-
ceptible smile at the corner of his mouth, that Cap-
tain Maxwell himself, so fai- from having given way
to passion, was not only perfectly cool, but was
CANTON. 275
enjoying, to the vpry fop of Lis bont, tlio conster-
nation into which he had thrown the Viceroy's de-
puty and liis attendant.
Matters, liowever, were soon apparently re-ad-
justed, by Captain IMaxweU's ringing the bell, and
ordering some cheiry brandy, which the terrified
Mandarin relislied vastly more than the gunpowder
speeches he had just been treated with ; and I
could see him more than once c£ist a side glance
to the racks suspended under the guns, each holding
a dozen of twenty-four pound shot.
A desuitor}'' conversation ensued, during which
all official business was sedulously avoided for a
time ; but Captain Maxwell, whose object was to
be fully understood, would not allow the unhappy
worshipper of Fo to leave the ship ivithout some-
thing so explicit, that even the acuteness of Chi-
nese diplomacy should not be able to evade or mis-
construe it. He accordingly resumed the subject
by asking the Mandarin, now he was aware what
the frigate's cargo consisted of, whether he thought
the Viceroy would grant the proper Chop. " I
have no sort of doubt of it," he replied eagerly ;
" and if you will only consent to wait till the twen-
ty-third day of the moon, four days hence, you may
rely upon it that a free permission, a grand Chop
of the first order, will be sent to you, together
with pilots, refreshments, and all you require." —
" Be it so," said Captain 2^Iaxwell • " I am the
last man in the world to do anything in a hurry —
I have not the least wish to do what is offensive or
contrary to the usages of any countiy. But under-
stand me, once for all : I am perfectly resolved
that neither the Ambassador, nor the flag of my
nation, shall be insulted in the manner alluded to
276 CANTON.
in the Viceroy's communication ; and if, on or be-
fore the twenty-thii'd day of the moon, a free permis-
sion to enter the river does not arrive^ I most cer-
tainly shall proceed in this ship without it ; and shall
not stop till I have reached the spot occupied by Jiis
Britannic Majesty's ships employed oji the former
embassy. You regulate all things in this Celestial
Empire of yours by precedent, you tell me, and it
shall go hard but I will furnish you with one that
will serve you for many years to come." The
Mandai'in thus schooled was in a great hurry to be
off, and carrying with him the linguist as a witness
to bear him out in the strange story he had to tell,
made all sail towards the city.
We had a good laugh over the conference when
the Chinese had gone away : but I was anxious
to know what Captain Maxwell really meant to
do in the event of no Chop coming from the Vice-
roy. He told me he had no expectation that
any permission would come ; and from what he
had heard and seen, was satisfied that the Vice-
roy was resolved to carry matters to the utmost,
feeling confident that his insolence would be tame-
ly submitted to as it had heretofore been, on al-
most all occasions, even after positive threats had
been used. He added, that for his part he did not
mean to use any threats, but to act, and if no Chop
came on the 11th of this month, which coiTespond-
ed with the 23d of the moon, to proceed straight
up the river. A well-established precedent was
before him in the case of the Lion, Lord Macart-
ney's ship, which was permitted to go as high as
Wampoa, the station where the China ships take
in their cargoes ; and in proportion to the advan-
tage supposed to be gained upon that occasion, he
1^ . ^ CANTON. 277
considered the loss would now be great if this point
were to be given up. He observed, also, that if
he waited for the Ambassador's arrival and in-
structions, it would imply a doubt as to the validity
of the right ; but as he had no doubt, and meant
to admit of none, there was no reason why, in the
event of a refusal, it should not be enforced. Be-
sides, were the measm-e to be delayed till Lord
Amherst should reach Canton, it would throw the
whole burthen of responsibility on his Lordship,
already abundantly loaded ; on the other liand,
by taking it entirely upon himself, the Ambassa-
dor would be left more free, and his dignity much
better maintained, than if an altercation with the
Viceroy were prepared for him. From all we yet
knew, the Embassy had failed, and was returning
in a manner sufficiently humiliating, without addi-
tional dishonour. And Captain Maxwell thought,
that if he sailed resolutely up, and took the station
which, according to precedent, he was entitled to
claim, such a step might show the Chinese, that
however we might have failed in obtaining further
advantages, the English nation was in no humour
to relinquish those which it already possessed.
Such being his feelings and views on the occasion,
he prepai'ed to carry them into execution, without
delay.
It must be allowed by all parties, if, indeed,
there can be two opinions on the subject, that
whether the resolution adopted was right or wrong,
prudent or otherv.dse, it evinced a high degree of
political courage : since, if the Viceroy's orders to
deny admission to his Majesty's ships had really
been derived from the Court, a serious national
quarrel, or the stoppage of the tea trade at least,
VOL. I. 2 a
278 CANTON.
would Iia^'O been the inevitable consequence. Be-
sides whicli, the Ambassador, and many other Bri-
tish subjects, were completely in the ])Ower of the
Chinese, and there was no knowing to what risk
their lives might be exposed, if the govemment
were roused to take summary revenge, for what
they might consider an outrage. No doubt, all
these considerations had their weight ; but when
carefully balanced, they were not found to shake
the original plan, deliberately formed, for resisting
this attempt to degrade the national character.
The twenty-tliird day of the moon came accord-
ingly, without any reply from the Viceroy : neither
pilot nor Chop maldng its appearance. The LyTa
in the meantime was despatched for provisions to
the Portuguese settlement of Macao, in the im-
mediate neighbourhood. But Captain Maxwell
wishing to give ample time, and above all unwill-
ing to do anything precipitate, waited four-and-
twenty hours later than the day specified ; at the
end of which period, on the 12th of November, he
weighed and proceeded to Chuen Pee, an anchor-
age a few miles below the narrow entrance called
the Bogue, or Mouth, the B<>ca of the Portuguese
navigators. Here a fleet consisting of seventeen
large men-of-war junks, each mounting from four
to six guns, mth a complement of sixty men, was
drawn up in line-of-battle to oppose the further
progress of the frigate. The numerous batteries
along shore were also observed to be filled with
men : indeed the whole scene indicated a resolu-
tion of resisting the intention of the strangers to pass
the prescribed limits. A small boat, or as it is
called a Sanpan, was now seen to put off from
the admiral's junk and make towards the frigate.
CANTON. 279
This boat was rowed by a single old woman, which
ridiculous circumstance, though not uncommon in
the upper parts of the river, was certainly now in-
tended as an additional indignity. On her coming
alongside, the same interpreter Avho had accompa-
nied the INIandarin at the memorable interview of
the 7th, made his appearance on the quaiter-deck,
along which he strode witli an air of much greater
confidence than he had shown in the cabin a few
days before. He v/as the bearer of an order, as he
expressed it, from the commander-in-chief of the
Emperor's war junks, for the frigate to anchor in-
stantly. Captain Maxwell, whom nothing could u-ri-
tate or discompose, answered this impertinent man-
date by joeulaily asking in the broken English used
by the interpceter, " Suppose no do — what then ?"
" Then, I thinkee," retorted the linguist, with a very
significant wink of liis small red eye, — " I thinkee
that my great Mandarin there sinkee your ship !"
And sure enough, while they were still in conver-
sation, the admiral fired first one gun, then another,
and ao ou along the whole line. Although these
guns were all shotted. Captain Maxwell, with good-
humom- and presence of mind, called out that ho
was greatly obliged to the admiral for his salute,
and ordered tb'ee guns to be fired with powder
only, in return for the compliment, but continued
his course onwards, under all sail. The Mandarin
soon put this mistake to rights by firing more shot,
in which example he v/as followed by tlie whole
fleet. Their guns were worked with considerable
spirit and rapidity ; but somehow or other, not only
the admiral, but all the officers under his orders,
managed never to strike the frigate, or even to fire
directly over her, tailing care to pitch their shot
280 CANTON.
either just a-head or just a-stern. It Ib not feir,
perhaps, to insinuate what motives influenced this
gallant officer on the occasion ; it was sufficient
for Captain Maxwell's purpose that no shot actual-
ly hit his ship, and he sailed on without taking the
smallest notice of the uncivil cannonading in his
rear.
When the frigate had reached nearly to the
Bogue, or entrance, and almost within range of the
battery called Annanhoy, the light wind which had
carried her so far, gradually died away, and the tide,
setting strongly out, rendered it necessary to drop
the anchor. The Chinese fleet brought up like-
wise, but continued firing away as briskly as before.
Captain Maxwell, whose attention had hitherto been
occupied by piloting the frigate, was now at leisure
to attend to the warlike admiral. He according-
ly loaded one of the quarter-deck guns, a two-
and-thirty-pound carronade, and having directed it
and primed the lock all with his own hands, drew
the trigger himself. The gun was aimed so that
the shot should pass over the centre of the com-
mander-in-chief's junk. The effect was instanta-
neous, and most ludicrous : the crews, not only of
this vessel, but of the whole line, fell flat on their
faces, as Captain Maxwell described it in his letter
to me, " like Persians at sun-rise," while the admiral
in person was seen for a moment actually in the
air, into which he had leaped in the extremity of his
amaze, and in the next instant he lay prostrate on
the deck. So remarkable was this exhibition, that
Captain Maxwell at first feared he had pointed the
gun too low, and actually killed the poor Mandarin ;
while the sailors, who were in ecstacies with the sight,
exclaimed that tlie captain had shot away the Cliina
CANTON. 281
admiral's head. \\ ithout any such serious issue,
tlift effect was quite as complete,, for the tiling in-
stantly ceased.
It is an invariable rule in China, wliencver a
casualty happens in consequence of guns fired from
any foreign ships, to insist upon the man who ac-
tually fired the gun being given up, not the officer
who gave the order ; as if the guilt rested with the
mere agent, rather tlian with the chief at whose in-
stigation he has acted. Captain Maxwell was there-
fore determined, at all events, to simplify the present
question, by loading and firing the first gun witli
his own hand, and thus to make himself, in every
sense of the word, Chinese as well as European,
the responsible person. This incident may perliaps
appear a trifle to some persons, but it was one
strictly in character with the whole of these pro-
ceedings ; and the anecdote is worthy of being borne
in the recollection of every officer in command,
who, as he shares all, or nearly all the credit of
successful enterprize, should be ready to take upon
himself the whole weight of censm-e, should the
consequences be disastrous.
About half past eight o'clock of the same even-
ing a breeze spning up, which admitted of the ship
steering through the 13ogue. The anchor was in-
stantly weighed ; but so vigilant were the Chinese,
that the topsails were hardly sheeted liome before
a flight of rockets, and a signal gun from the fleet,
amiounced that night or day the passage was to be
disputed. In the next instant there was a simul-
taneous flash of light from one end to the other
of the batteries, on both sides of the river sky-rock-
ets were thromi up in every direction, and all the
A 2
282 CAKTON.
embrasures were illuminated in the most brilliant
manner. " The boatswain's pipe," to use Captain
Maxwell's own expression, " did not man the Al-
ceste's guns more smartly than these signals did the
Chinese batteries. The very first shot they fired,"
to continue the extract from a letter I received
some days afterwards, " hit us very hard in the
bows, and pretty low down ; the second cut away
one of the mizen-shrouds, and went through the
spanker ; in short, they went on remarkably well.
It really put us quite in mind of old times again.
My orders were that not a shot should be fired
until one was heard from the quarter-deck, the
trigger of which I pulled myself when within less
than half-musket shot of Annanhoy, the battery at
the Bogue ; and then the main-deck and forecastle
very speedily put out all the John China-man's lights.
It really was a very fine and spirited scene while it
lasted.
" But the best effect of the whole is," continues
Captain Maxwell, " that the Viceroy has quite re-
covered his good breeding, and become remarka-
bly civil. A Mandaiin of much higher rank than
our former visitor was sent down to where the ship
had anchored in the river, after passing the batte-
ries, to say that I might come as far as I pleased ;
that the Lyra might also enter the river when I
pleased ; all boats might pass and repass the Bogue
when I pleased ; in short everything is to be done
according to my pleasure : and, what is amusing
enough, a Chop, or edict, has been published In
Canton, stating that the Alceste had entered /^nd
come up the river by the Viceroy's exprj^^' per-
mission, in the same manner as the ehips 61' the for-
mer embassy,"
CANTON. 283
Thus fer Captain Maxwell ; but I cannot omit
relating two chai^acteristic traits of this officer, of
which he has omitted all mention himself. At the
time of passing through the Bogue, and after the
first broadside from the frigate had been -poured
into the batteiy, but while some of the guns still
continued firing at the ship, the greater number of
the Chinese who had not been knocked over by the
Alceste's fire, scampered off to the right and left up
the hill, each with a paper lantern in his hand, thus
affording a conspicuous mark for the small arms.
Captain Maxwell, however, jumped on the poop,
and would not allow a single musket to be fired ;
remarking that his pui-pose was to effect a passage
by silencing the great guns, and that if he could
avoid it not a single Chinese should be hurt.
The other anecdote is equally in character. On
the morning after the ship had passed the batte-
ries, and reached the intended anchorage. Captain
Maxwell ordered his gig, a small four-oared boat,
to be manned ; and without taking arms, or making
any previous stipulations for his own safety, rowed
straight up to Canton, a distance of more than thirty
miles from his ship. The news of the action had
preceded his arrival, and immense multitudes were
assembled to see the oflicer who had destroyed
those fortresses considered by the whole empire
as impregnable. He was received on the wharf
by the members of the British Factory with al-
most equal admiration. " Gentlemen," said he,
" I have felt it my duty to take a step of great
importance, and one wluch may perhaps serious-
ly involve not only the Ambassador and his suite,
but all of you ; and as I am the person principally
concenied, I have come here to share the risk what-
284- CANTON.
ever ii may prove." The crowd as he- walked along
fell back in as much amaze as if a tij:er from the
woods had sprung amongst them, but towards
evening tliey were all dispersed, and the danger
which, liad he shrank from facing it, would have
been imminent, was entirely at an end.
While Captain Maxwell was thus busily'eraploy-
ed, I had proceeded by his orders on the 7th Novem-
ber to a harbour called the Typa, within a mile or
two of Macao. Early next morning a large Chinese
war vessel, mounting seven guns and crowded with
people, anchored about a quarter of a mile to the
eastwai-d of us. All eyes were turned to this new
and strange sight, for we had not before seen any
junk nearly so large ; but wliilst we were engagetl
in examining her more minutely, another still lar-
ger dropped anchor under our stern ; presently an-
other took his station on the bow, and one on the
quarter, till in the course of half an hour we found
ourselves fau'ly encaged by these immense vessels.
One very zealous officer amongst them took a birtli
rather too close as I thought, as he brought up ac-
tually within the Lyra's buoy. So great a depai'ture
from professional etiquette I imagined must be in-
tended as a prelude to something hostile, and I pre-
pared my little ship for the contest. We had only ten
guns, indeed, but these were tliirty-two pound car-
ronades, and we might, I dare say, have done very
well on the occasion of coming to blows, unless,
indeed, it had occurred to the Chinese to have sail-
ed their immense castles one on each side of us, in
which case the poor Lyra must have been crushed
like an egg-shell. For the smallest of these junks
could not have been less than four or five times
CANTON. 285
our tonnage, and at least three thnes as high out
of the water. As soon as the guns were shotted,
I sent my boat to the junk which had anchored so
close as almost to be touching us, to beg he would
move a little further off. The officer of my boat
found a linguist on board, to whom he readily ex-
plained the impropriety of anchoring so near ; and
I confess I was not sorry to observe my friend
comply so readily, and get his anchor up again to
take his station along with the rest of the fleet.
It was soon apparent they intended us no immedi-
ate mischief, but were sent to watch us, and I sup-
pose to keep us in awe ; for everj'' morning and
evening, at sun -rise and sun-set, there was a grand
mustering on board each junk ; all the crews were
displayed on the decks, and a furious beating of
gongs set up, which was doubtless meant to be very
terrific and impressive.
We took no further notice, but proceeded "with
our re-equipment, till on the 15th of November ac-
counts reached Macao that Captain Maxwell had
been engaged with the batteries, and had after-
wards sailed up the river. I was on shore at Macao
at the time the news arrived, but went on board in-
stantly to see what part the Chinese fleet would
take, not knowing how far it might suit the admiral's
ideas of the service, to \dsit the sins of the frigate
upon the sloop of war. But to my surprise I be-
held them all getting under weigh in the utmost
hurry and confusion, as if the pigmy Lyra was go-
ing to swallow these giants up ; and without wait-
ing for order of battle, or any order at all, ran off
as hard as they could scamper out of our reach, into
the inner harbour of Macao, where they crowded
286 CANTON.
themselves together like sheep, and moored in a
compact body, actually touching one another.
As I knew nothing of the Alceste's proceedings,
except througli the reports of the Chinese and Por-
tuguese, which varied every hour, I resolved to
wait Captain Maxwell's further instructions. It
was a week before I heard from him, and my or-
ders then were to proceed up the river, to where
the Alceste lay, and not to return the fire of the
batteries, should they recommence hostilities, but
in that case to anchor below the Bogue, until I was
joined by the frigate. In order to avoid all mis-
takes, or misunderstandings, he also sent me po-
sitive dii'ections to avoid all intercourse with the
Chinese, whatever advances might be made by the
commanders of the forts or fleets. In pursuance of
these directions, I tripped my anchor on the 25th,
and sailed out of the Typa ; but the tides not being
favourable, we were obliged to force our way
through the mud, and at one place actually sailed
for upwards of half a league in two feet less water,
by the sounding line, than the ship drew : that is to
say, we appeared to be in ten feet water, while the
vessel drew tv/elve. The moment our sails were set,
we obseri'ed a stir amongst the men-of-war junks,
and in a little while they came out one by one. As
the wind was against us, we had to make a tack
towards the harbour s mouth, where we were met
by the whole eight sail of the line, gaily dressed
out In long swallow-tailed streamers, and led by
their gallant commodore, who carried a flag tn-ice
as large as any of the rest. At sunset it fell calm,
and the tide having turned, we all anchored toge-
ther, no one of the junlis bcuig above a cable's
CANTON. 287
length, or two hundred yra'ds from the brig. As
soon as the sails were furled, the commodore man-
ned Ills bai'ge, and came liimself to pay the Lyi*a a
vi&it. I should liave been very glad to liave recei-
red him, but Captain Maxwell's orders against any
intercourse being explicit, I could do nothing but
decline his civility, and keep him off. In spite of all
I could do, however, he rowed alongside, and sent
an officer up with his card. This personage who for-
ced his way on board addressed me in these words,
"I come to see about your pigeon." — "My pigeon,"
said I ; " I have no pigeons on board, and you must
go away — I cannot receive you — go down the side,
if you please." — " No ! no," exclaimed he, by way
of clearing up the mystery, " my master, this great
Mandarin," pointing to his chief, " has come to see
about the ship's pigeon." While I was puzzling over
this speech, I observed the commodore and two or
three of his attendants climbing on board the brig,
and therefore called out to some of the sailors,
" Here, my lads, put this gentleman into his boat
again." In an instant a couple of strapping fellows,
who liked no better sport, leaped up, and would
have tumbled the poor Chinese over the gangway
in a trice, had I not caught their arms. The inter-
preter, seeing what was going to happen, made a
wise and precipitate retreat, dragging the com-
mander-in-chief along with him by the tail, and
screaming to the boatmen to shove off.
I was really extremely sorry to be gnilty of such
rudeness ; but my orders being imperative, I had
no other way of resisting such determined in-
trusion, but that of threatening to throw the fore-
most of my visitors overboard. I was glad it waa
not the chief himself who led the wav, as I must
288 CANTON.
have used some equally uncivil arguments with
him, which I confess would have been a monstrous
breach of naval etiquette.
I afterwards learned that the word " pigeon,"
in the strange jargon which is spoken at Canton by
way of English, means business, so that what the
linguist meant to say was, " I am come to see
about your business." It is, perhaps, not generally
known that all transactions between foreigners, of
whatever nation, are earned on here in a singular
dialect, called English, but which is scaixely in-
telligible at first, even to an Englishman, and must
be totally unintelligible to every other foreign-
er. It is made up of English, Portuguese, and
Chinese, and although barbarous in the highest
degree, must be studied by every trader at the
port. Until very lately, all business was transacted
by the British Factory in this most absurd lan-
guage. Of late years, however, the Company's ser-
vants at Canton have made themselves acquainted
both with the written and spoken Chinese, and
everything material now passes in the language of
the country. The natives themselves, whose prin-
ciple it is to discourage all assimilation, sometimes
lament this newly acquired power of commimica-
ting, and look back with regret to the times when
the supercargoes drank a great deal of wine, and
spoke not a word of their language. " Now," as
I heard one of the Hong merchants say, with a
sigh and a shake of the head, " the English speak
Chinese as well as I do, and drink nothing but wa-
ter."
As soon as the tide served next morning, after
daybreak, we weighed, in company with the fleet,
and continued all day beating to wuidward. For
CANTON. 289
some time these vessels held very good way with
us, but when the breeze freshened we left them
to leeward, tliough not by any means so fast as we
had been led to expect we should have done.
Dming the day we often crossed one another, on
opposite tacks, sometimes to -odudward, sometimes
to leeward, and often so close as almost to touch,
making a very amusing and spirited sailing-match.
As the night closed in I let go my anchor, not
being willing to incur the risk of ninning upon the
shoals. The Chinese commodore and two of his
next best sailers were just in sight at sunset, far to
leeward, but^being well acquainted with the river
they had no occasion to anchor, and before mid-
night, they were once more clustered round their
little charge. We were now at Chuen Pee where
Captain Maxwell had anchored previous to enter-
ing the Begiie, and I could observe from the lights
in the batteries, and an occasional rocket, that the
garrison were no less upon the alert than they
had been upon that occasion.
By the fiist peep of dawn next morning we were
again under weigh, and about breakfast-time steer-
ed for the nan-ow neck, or Bogue, the scene of ac-
tion on the 13th. The flags were hoisted at all the
signal-posts, and the batteries eveiywhere cro^ivded
with people. I went as close as possible to Annan-
hoy, in order to see what damage had been done.
Thirty-nine pieces of cannon were counted, none
of them less than twenty-four pounders, and all
within five or six feet of the level of the water ;
and so judiciously arranged, that if properly served,
tliey might repulse a considerable force. The face
of the wall, blown down by the Alceste's broad-
side, had been built up again, and the Chinese rau8t
VOL. I. 2 b 9
290 CANTON.
have worked night and day to conceal their disas-
ter. From the new ajipearance, however, of the
works, and the marks of sliot on the steep face of
the rock immediately behind the guns, I should
think that most, if not all the guns must have been
dismounted, and the embrasures beaten together.
As the Alceste passed considerably within her own
length of the battery, and the water was perfectly
smooth, every shot must have told.
We were greeted very differently ; for as we
passed, a boat with four large skulls, and dressed
up with long streamers reaching to the water, came
from the fort with an officer, Avho hailed us, and
said he was sent by the governor to ask if we want-
ed a pilot or any other assistance. But he did
not come close alongside, having probably heard
from the admiral, whose boat we saw lying at the
sally-port of the battery, that we were not very
civil to our visitors. I hesitated a moment whether
or not I should take a pilot, but upon considering
the matter a little, declined his offer, and he row-
ed back again, after making the most respectful sa-
lams as he took his leave. I refused this offer not
only from feeling confident that we could do Avithout
assistance, but also because I thought it Hkely that
Captain Maxwell, who had himself taken the fri-
gate up, might wish to demonstrate to the Chinese
that we could do without them in this matter ; a
circumstance, we learned afterwards, winch caused
almost as much surprise at Canton as the passage
of the batteries. There was, however, no mysteiy
in the case, as an admirable chart of the river had
been constructed shortly before this period, by Cap-
tain Daniel Ross, a gentleman to whom the naviga-
tors of every nation, whose business leads them
CANTON. 291
to the Eastern seas, are ilidebted in the highest
degree.
The East India Company liave the sole merit,
and a very high one it is, of ha\'ing originated the
splendid idea of surveying in a scientific manner,
not only the vast seas and coasts of China, but all
the straits, bays, and islands in the Indian Ocean
and Malay Archipelago. This work, perhaps the
most useful, and certainly the greatest of its kind
that any nation ever undertook, has been steadily
caiTied on at an enormous expense for many years,
imder every circumstance of peace or war. To
many persons this langxiage may seem too strong ;
but I write without exaggeration, at the dictation of
feelings which most people will be ready to make
allowance for. In an open sea, in broad day-light,
and in fine weather, nothing can be more delight-
ful than sailing along on such a voyage as ours to
visit strange countries. But when the scene is
changed to a dark stormy night, in nan-ow rocky
passages, with rapid tides sweeping through them,
the blessing of such chai'ts as those of Captain
Ross, and such dnections as those of Hor^burgh,
is felt in a manner that the " gentlemen of England,
who live at home at ease,'' can form but a faint con-
ception of.
The flood tide was now making, and we were
carried gently past the various batteries on both
sides of the river, eveiy one of which sent off a
boat to offer us any assistance we might require:
but I declined all then' offers. At noon it fell al-
most calm, but the water being perfectly smooth,
the brig still had steerage way, and I sent the
people to dinner, thinking we should not require
them to perform any evolution before one o'clock.
292 CANTON.
The laBt drain of the flood was now stealing alor^,
and the river seemed like a bowl filled up to the
brim. Tlie banks were low and swampy, without
trees or houses, or any definite land-mark, by which
our precise place could be told. Everything look-
ed so perfectly placid, that I dreamed of no danger,
after having already navigated by the chart, for
thirty or forty miles through a succession of intri-
cate and dangerous shoals. I was thus lulled into
an undue degi-ee of security, and permitted the
tide to drift the brig silently and imperceptibly
towards the Eastern bank of tliis immense river.
While I was standing on the poop, endeavouring,
if possible, to catch some object on the monoto-
nous flat shore, by which the vessel's progress might
be indicated, a small Cliinese boat glided slowly up
under the quarter, as if to watch our motions. I
took no notice of the boatman, who, however, after
lying in the same spot for five minutes, stood up,
and said in English, " Don't you want a pilot ?" I
said, " Oh, no — I know the river as well as you
do. I want no pilot." The man shrugged his
shoulders and sat down again. It now wanted only
ten minutes of one, but I was unwilling to disturb
the people at their meal, although I began to sus-
pect, from seeing the buU-mshes a little more dis-
tinctly, that we were drifting too near, and in the
next moment we slipped gently upon a shoal — so
gently indeed, that I should not have known it, had
not the tide, along with which we had been borne
insensibly, now streamed past us. The hands were
up instantly, and an anchor and hawser, kept in
readiness alongside for such accidents, sent out to
draw us off the ground. While this was going on, the
Chinese in liis boat paddled once more close under
CANTOX. 203
tlie spot where I was standing", and said, vvitii liis
former tone and manner, and the addition of a
knowing smile, " Don't you want a pilot ?" I laugh-
ed, and told him to come on board.
In half an horn- we were again afloat, and a light
breeze springing up, we soon reached the anchorage
called the Second Bai', where a fleet of fourteen
large ships of the East India Company lay at an-
chor. Being uncertain at first whether the brig
would soon get afloat again or not, I had thought it
best to make a signal for assistance. In less than an
hour, upwai'ds of a dozen of the Indiamcn's long-
boats, each manned with not less than eighteen
hands, came to us. Before they reached the brig
we had got off the shoal, and I might have made
signals to show they were no longer necessary, but
was willing to indulge both my own crew and
these strangers with a meeting. We had now been
nearly nine months from England, during the whole
of which period we Iiad either been at sea, or amongst
remote countries, beyond the reach of news ; and
nothing, certainly, was ever better bestowed than
this rencontre. Our men were bursting Avith ea-
gerness to tell the story of their adventures, and
the people in the boats, who had just airived from
England, had much to impart of friends and home.
On reaching the Alceste, I found orders lying for
me to proceed to Canton ; and as a captain of one
of the tea ships was just sotting ofi:" in a large and
commodious barge, I prefeiTed accompanying him
to rowing up alone. Probably, had I gone in a man-
of-war's boat, the Chinese, who had treated Cap-
tain Maxwell with great politeness wherever he
passed, might have been equally civil to his bro-
ther officer. But thcv observed no such delicacy
'b 2
294 CANTON.
in the case of the East India captain ; for wherever
we passed, they climbed to the most eonspicuoua
parts of their boats, and saluted us in a style the
very furthest removed from good manners ; suit-
ing the rudest actions to words probably not more
courteous. The eloquence was quite thrown away
upon us, but there was no mistaking the pur-
port of the gesture. For some time this was amu-
sing, rather than otherwise ; and to me at least the
whole scene, fi-om beginning to end, was subject
of unmixed entertainment. But my companion,
though one of the best men alive, was not the most
patient person in the fleet, and replied at first to
these insults by a few emphatic oaths in broad
Scotch. Presently he stood up, and shook his
fist in a very angry manner, which produced no-
thing but a loud and scernful laugh ; this instant-
ly drove my friend into a towering passion ; and
before I could stop him, he caught up a fowling-
piece, lying on the stem sheets, and discharged
it directly at a thick cluster of Chinese, not one
of whose faces could be seen, but who neverthe-
less offered a most conspicuous front to his aim.
Fortunately the piece was loaded with snipe-shot,
and the distance being considerable, the dose, thus
promptly administered, acted merely as a sedative,
not only upon the crew of the neai'est vessel, but
upon that of every other in sight. " There, you
long-tailed rascals," exclaimed the Highlander,
" there is a second edition of Maxwell and the
batteries for you !" And no doubt the effect was
analogous ; for many weeks afterwards, when I
passed in the same boat with the same person, the
natives recognised the hand that had peppered them,
and were extremely civil as we rowed along.
CANTON. 295
We had thus to fight our way, step by step, in-
to the good gi-aces of the Cliinese. The last con-
flict which we had with tliem took place about an
hour after I had readied Canton, at Captain Max-
well's lodgings. We heard a great noise at the top
of the stairs, and on going out to see what was
the matter, found my coxswain and boat's crew in
high altercation with a Chinaman, who was endea-
vouring to deprive them of a tnmk which they
caiTied on their shoulders. My boat had followed
ine to Canton, and the sailors on landing naturally
brought the things to our lodgings : just as they
crossed the threshold, however, they were observed
by the IVIandarin of the custom-house, wlio called
out to them to stop, and insisted upon searching
the packages. Jack resisted this, and both parties
having entered the house, the action which had
disturbed us was raging on the staircase.
As it was an established practice at Canton for
no Chinese authority to enter the house of a Euro-
pean resident without fii'st obtaining permission, this
proceeding was quite contrary to usage. At all
events. Captain Maxwell, who had commenced by
assimiing a high tone in great matters, was resol-
ved to cai-ry it through even in trifles, and turning
to the Chinese, asked him by what right he had
dared to violate the quarters assigned to his Bri-
tannic Majesty's officers, without fii'st appealing
to him. The Mandarin looked a little sui-prised ;
but a reply being insisted upon, he said it was
quite a mistake — that he had imagined the tninks
had belonged to some merchant ship, and not to
a king's ship. " Well, then," said Captain Max-
well, " you must learn better in future." And turn-
ing to tlie sailors, ordered them to put the officer
296 GANT0X.
out of the house, and retired to liis own room, whis-
pering to me in passing to take care tliat the intru-
der Avas not liurt. I had enou|2:h to do, liowever,
to attend to this hhit, for my fellov/s, the moment
they heard the word« " turn him out," caught up
the unhappy Chinaman, and bore him along over
their heads, till they reached the door, whence, as
they expressed it, they gave liim fresh head-way into
the street ; and in fact, had it not been for the crowd
assembled before the door, against whom he fell
headlong, it might have fared worse for the poor
Mandarin, who, gatheripcr himself up, took to his
heels, and never stopped till he reached his little
office at the beach. The rest of the crowd, fan-
cying, by the impetus wdth which their countryman
had been projected from the house, that the temble
Captain himself w^as in his rear, were seized with
a panic, and in a few seconds not a soul was to ba
seen.
Under any other than the veiy peculiar cir-
cumstances in which we were placed, such de-
termined measures for maintaining our independ-
ence might have been questionable. As it was,
however, we remained after these contests several
months at Canton without receiving the slightest in-
sult ; and the gentlemen of the Factory declared,
that they had never, till now, been treated even with
common attention ; and when at last the Embassy
arrived from the interior, the Chinese vied with
one another who should be most obliging. It must
be remembered, in considering these questions, that
England has no treaty with China ; everything,
therefore, relating to tlie intercourse of foreigners,
being regulated by cu-tom. alone, it becomes real-
CANTON. 297
ly important, when an opportunity occurs, to es-
tablish convenient, instead of irksome usages. In
tliis view. Captain Maxwell, the next day, explain-
ed in an official communication to the Chinese au-
thorities, that as his Majesty's ships had nothing
to do with trade, none of their boats ever carried
goods; and he pledged himself to take care that no
smuggling occurred through their means; but he
positively refused to allow a king's boat or a king's
officer under any pretence whatsoever to be search-
ed. And although at a distance this may be thought
an insignificant matter, it was considered a material
point gained, in a coimtry where such trifles take
the place of more important affairs ; and where,
in fact, if they were not attended to from time
to time, the life of a foreigner would soon be-
come almost insupportable. In tliis point of view,
it is extremely satisfactory to leara, that ever since
the wholesome lessons which Captain Maxwell
read to the Chinese on the score of good manners,
there has been a remarkable improvement in the
condition of all the foreign residents, who have the
supreme happiness, as the Chinese express it, of
being suffered to live in the Celestial Empire.
So much has been written respecting China, and
especially about Canton, that I shall be excused
for not enteiing on so threadbare a subject. We
were allowed to walk about the streets to a great
distance fi'om the Factory, without meeting any
kind of obstruction or insult ; and when we hap-
pened to come near the gates of the Citadel or
inner town, were \^'arned off by sentinels witli long-
poles, but no impediments were ever thrown in
the way of oui- examining the shops, or the difforpnt
manufactories, with which the other parts of this ini-
298 CANTON.
mense city abound; and as the sight of Europeans
was familiar to the people, no notice was taken of
us, and every one continued at his business as if
no stranger was looking on. The gentlemen of
the Embassy, when they returned from travelling
upwards of a thousand miles through the interior
of the country, declared that in a few days they
had seen in Canton not only everything they had
met with before, but could observe it to better pur-
pose than during the journey.
The only evil likely to attend these perambula-
tions through the streets, was the loss of a hand-
kerchief or two. A Chinese thief picked my
pocket one day, so dexterously, that I did not per-
ceive the loss : but my companion, the same
gentleman vA^o had silenced the significant saluta-
tion of the Chinese boatmen, and who was better
acquainted with the people, detected the rogue,
and caught him by the end of his long tail, as it
was whisking round the corner of the street. He
began instantly to belabour the thief with liis cano,
and what seemed odd enough, to the entire satis-
faction of the multitude, who, so far from attempt-
ing a rescue, encouraged the due infliction of this
discipline. After a certain number of blows had
been given, however, there was a cry of '• enoiigh,"
and I was informed that if the punishment had not
been discontinued at once, the extra allowance
bestowed on the culprit, would have been paid
back to the donor with a certain ]>er-centage of
interest. It seems every conceivable offence in
China has its numerical value expressed in terms
of the bamboo, l)y which alone it can be expiated ;
and as this scale is well known to every man in
the streets, a stranger is safe in administering tlic
CANTON. 299
law himself, since he may be quite sure of having
a limit set to his proceedings when, according to
the refined calculus alluded to, justice has been
satisfied. I was never very desirous of putting
this to the test of actual experiment, but some
days afterwards v.'hen the Siivue fellow again pick-
ed my pocket, I seized him by the collar and was
carrying him to the Police OfHce close at hand,
when he fell on his knees and supplicated me to
beat him, knowing perhaps that the sitting Man-
darin would not let him off so cheaply as I should.
The oddity of the request disai-med me entirely,
and I gave hini a small copper coin, bidding him
not rob me any more — and he adhered faithfully
to his promise, although I passed him frequently
every day. This man was as ^^ell known to the
police, as our professional rogTies in London are
said to be to the officers of Bow-Street, and as far
as I could leara, made his bread by the same laud-
able calling. The convention between him and
me did not extend to my countrymen, however, and
in tlje course of ten days, one of the midshipmen of
my ship, a careless, gaping mortal, whose insa-
tiable curiosity led him to wander in a sort of ec-
stacy through the streets, lost no less than twelve
pocket-handkerchiefs ; so that he became a sort
of little fortune to my friend the pickpocket, who
looked very ill pleased one day when I passed in
company with the youngster, and by keeping be-
tween them convoyed him in safety for once.
This persevering rogue never sliifted his station,
but sat curled up like a spider in his hole, at the
end of one of the numerous little bridges which
cross the streets of Canton.
It may not be uninteresiing to Italian travellers
300 CANTON.
to mention that about two years afterwards when in
Venice, I was struck with the exact resemblance
between one of the canal bridges of that city, and
the post of this Chinese thief. Pursuing the pa-
rallel, I was led to recognise the most remarkable
similarity in the two places. Of course, I do not
speak of the open squares and finer parts of Ve-
nice, for there is nothing similar to these in Can-
ton : but in all that quarter of the town, which
lies between the RiaJto and the Place of St Mark,
the coincidence is exact ; and he who has seen one
of these cities, can form a tolerably correct concep-
tion of the other. The streets are paved exactly
in the same style — they are of the same width —
have the same degi'ee of light — the shops are just
of the same dimensions and foi-m — the Iiouses are
equal in height. The only difference that I could
discover, lies in the signs : in China, each shop has
a large finely japanned boai'd, six feet long, with
gilt letters, hanging not horizontally lilve ours in
Europe, but pei'pendicularly, and left loose to
flap about with the wind on one side of the door.
Neither in Venice nor in Canton, are there any
wheeled-caniages or horses ; the same method of
carrying loads at the end of poles across tJie
shoulders, being practised in both places, a cir-
cumstance which tends greatly to heighten the un-
expected resemblance between two places so re-
mote from each other, and so differently ciixum-
stanced.
On the first of Janu-ary 1817, a gi-and proces-
sion of the boats of the men-of-war, and of all the
Indiamen, left Canton, where they had been assem-
bled in readiness for two days, and rowed about a
league and a half up the river to meet the Am-
CANTON 301
bassador. The Chinese authorities were sorely an-
noyed by such a host of men in theic city, for there
were thu'ty large boats, each carrying about sixteen
men, all diessed alike, and kept in the strictest dis-
cipline under their respective officers. These pre-
parations were made to ensure the Ambassador
as respectable an entry into the city as possible,
but not until it was found, upon application to
the local government, that it was intended to
pay him none of the usual honoms. When the
baffled Viceroy, however, beheld boat after boat
arriving in his city, he would have been glad to
have made any conditions on the subject of Lord
Amherst's reception ; but Captain Maxwell had
taken his line, and it was now too late.
When the procession reached the Factory, the
boats drew up and saluted his Excellency with
three hearty cheers, the sound of which reached
as fai- as the Viceroy's palace, and is said to have
distm'bed him exceedingly.
VOL. I. 2 c
302 INTEIIVIKW WITH BUONAPARTE.
CHAPTER Vn.
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPAKTE AT ST HELENA IN
AUGUST 1817.
In pursuance of Captain Maxwell's plan, ar-
rangements were made by which Lord Amherst
left Canton with still greater pomp and ceremony
than he had entered it. He embarked at Wampoa
on board the Alceste, which for this purpose was
anchored at the highest point ever reached by any
foreign ship : and such was the improvement in
Chinese manners in the interval, that as the frigate
dropped down the river, and passed the batteries
a second time, the British flag was honourec^
by a complimentary salute from each in succes-
sion. The Embassy finally quitted China in Janu-
ary 1817. The subsequent fate of the frigate, and
the new and arduous duties which fell to the lot
of her commander on that trying occasion, are well
known to the world. The Lyra was sent to Cal-
cutta with despatches to the Governor-general ;
from wlience she proceeded to Madras and the Isle
of France, and after a prosperous and pleasant piis-
sage round the Cape of Good Hope, anchored at
St Helena on the 11th of August.
Of course, nothing could engage our attention on
arriving at this island so strongly as its wonder-
INTERVIEiy WITH BUONAPARTE. 803
ful inhabitant, Napoleon Buonaparte. For many
weeks before, tlie probability of seeinsr him had
enn^rossed the thoughts of every one on board in a
degree which it is difficult to describe, and would
hardly be credited by those who, from distance or
other circumstances, never by any possibility could
have been admitted to his presence. Whatever pre-
judices or opinions we might previously have en-
tertained respecting his character, every former sen-
timent was now overwhelmed by the intense anxiety
to see a man who had exercised such an astonish-
ing influence over the destinies of mankind. The
vivid interest recently excited in our minds by tra-
velling into remote countries, and being the first to
contemplate unknown nations, and a totally new
state of manners, high though it had been, and univer-
sally felt, was feeble in comparison to what we now
experienced, when conscious of being within so
short a distance of such a man as Napoleon. I say
this without the least affectation, but simply as a
curious fact in the history of curiosity, if I may use
so quaint an expression, by which every individual
on board, high as well as low, was infinitely more
occupied about this one man, than he had been
witli all the incidents of our singulai* voyage put to-
gether. Even those of our number who, from their
situation, could have no chance of seeing him,
caught the fever of the moment, and the most cold
and indifferent person on board was roused on the
occasion into unexpected excitement. If this were
true of others, it was ten times more striking in the
case of those who had any expectation of being ad-
mitted to an interview; and I landed with two gen-
tlemen who were passengers m my bhip, in a state
304. INTEIIVILW WITH BUONAPARTE.
of greater anxiety tlian I ever experienced before
or since.
As I had the pleasure of being personally ac-
quainted with the governor and his family, ajid had
received an invitation to live at Plantation-House,
I calculated with some confidence on the assistance
which this acquaintance would afford in forward-
ing the object in view. Before taking any steps,
however, I waited upon the Admiral to receive
his orders for my further proceedings. He had no
objections to my attempting to see Buonaparte,
but gave me very slender hopes of success ; and on
reaching the governor's country-house, I was much
disappointed by finding that Buonaparte and he
were on terms which rendered it impossible for
him to request an interview for any stranger. He
most kindly, however, undertook to do all that was
in his power, and immediately wrote a note to
Captain Blakeney, the officer who was at that
period in charge of Longwood, to say that I had
just anived from the Eastern Seas, and was desi-
rous of waiting upon General Buonaparte, to whom
my wishes were to be made known in the manner
most likely to succeed.
No answer came that evening ; and I did not
sleep a wink all night. A positive refusal would
probably have had a different effect ; the disap-
pointment must have been submitted to ; but this
uncertainty was harassing and agitating in a de-
gree which, though it sui^prised me a good deal
at the time, I have since learned to consider per-
fectly natural : for I see abundant explanation of
my anxiety and want of rest, on comparing what
I feel now on the subject, with the lasting regret I
should inevitably have experienced, liad I failed,
INTERVIEV/ WITH BUONAPARTE. 30;5
when SO very near, to see the most reniarkahle man
' of the age.
This liiglit was succeeded hy a still more an-
xious morning. After breakfast an answer came
from Longwood to say, that my name had been
mentioned to Buonaparte, as well as my desire of
paying my respects to him ; but it seemed he had
not taken the slightest notice of the communica-
tion. Captain Blakeney added, that he thought it
might be as well for me to come to Longwood, as
Buonaparte might possibly choose to receive me if
actuaUy on the spot : I accordingly rode over, ac-
companied by my two companions.
Dr O'Meara and Captain Blakeney received us
as we entered the grounds of Longwood, but gave
us no hopes. Buonaparte, they were sony to say,
was not in a humour to see any one ; he had not
even mentioned my name ; and in all probability did
not choose to have the subject spoken of again. It
was a pity, they said, that we had not been a few
minutes sootier, as he had been walking in the
garden, and we might at least have had the sa-
tisfaction of seeing him. Here was a fresh mortifi-
cation, and we felt that we could have gone away
contented and happy had we got but one glimpse
of him, and have had it to say, or rather to feel and
recollect, that so prodigious a meteor had not shot
across the political sky of our times without an-est-
ing, if only for an instant, our actual observation.
I have often heai'd this description and degree of
curiosity called unreasonable, and have even known
some people who said they would have cared
mighty little to see Buonaparte; that in short they
would hardlvhave crossed the street uieroly to see
2 c 2
306 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.
Iiim. With such persons I can acknowledge no
sympathy in tliis matter; and without fearing to lay
myself open to the charge of trifling, I can assert
with confidence, that no exertions I have ever
made, have been nearly so well repaid by subse-
quent reflection, as those which have had for their
object to get even a momentary view of distin-
guished men. This is most especially true in the
case of Buonaparte ; and it would be easy, were it
not tedious and out of place, to explain, and, as I
think, to justify all this.
Meanwhile we proceeded onwards to Count
Bertfand's house, at the bottom of the gently slo-
|>ing bank, on the western brow of which stood
the dwelling of Buonaparte. Between the two
houses lay a neat flower-gai-den, intersected by gra-
vel walks, and enclosed by a low hedge : the immedi-
ate vicinity was distinguished from the surrounding
bleak and desolate country by a few trees, dropped
as if by accident in the desart. The Countess Ber-
trand received us in the midst of her family, in a
small, low, uncomfortable apartment, which was
rendered still more incommodious in consequence
of some repairs in another part of the house, from
whence the furniture had been removed ; so that
sofas, beds, and tables, were huddled together where
they had no proper places. The good lady her-
self seemed to be suffering from toothache ; the
day was cold, and the scanty fire scarcely warmed
the room ; a little child was moaning in its mother's
arms, and in short, everything wore an air of dis-
comfort. The person most concerned, however,
appeared to be the least sensible of anything being
wiong, and received us with smiles and kindness,
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 807
and spared us all apology for the disorganized state
of her establishment. Several very pretty children
hearing the voices of strangers, came running in,
and played merrily round us during all om* stay,
unconscious, poor little things, of the strange re-
verses of fortune under which their parents were
suffering. The Countess appeared a remarkably
lady-like person; and what was more to our pur-
pose, spoke English perfectly w^ell, and soon gain-
ed our good-will by the active interest she took
in the object we had so much at heart, and on
which alone we could think or speak. In a short
time she had wrought herself into so much anxi-
ety about our seeing the Emperor, that a stranger
coming in might have thought she was one of the
party who were endeavouring to see him for the first
time. Her husband was also very obliging, and
seemed willing to forward our views as much as
lay in his power ; but he partook little of the vi-
vacity of his wife, and seemed upon the whole
rather out of spirits, and not altogether pleased
with his situation. He described himself, indeetl,
as having suflFered considerably in health from the
confinement and the insalubrious air of the cli-
mate.
After sitting for about half an hour chatting on
various topics, but always coming round to the ori-
ginal subject which filled oui- thoughts. Count Ber-
trand caught some portion of the interest we felt,
and in which his wife so strongly participated. He
said it was just possible the Emperor might ad-
mit us : at all events he would wait upon him, to
communicate our wishes, and return presently to
let us know how he had fared in his mission. Tlve
308 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.
interval was passed in a state of the utmost anxiety,
and at every casual sound which we thought might
be Count Bertrand's footstep, we started up, in ex-
pectation of a summons. Madame Bertrand mean-
while alternately consoled us, and rallied us u])on
our taking the matter so much to heai*t. Half an
hour at least elapsed before we heard anything of
his success : at length the door opened, and instead
of the Grand Marshal himself, a servant entered
and said he was desired to tell us, that the Em-
peror, on retuiTiing from his walk, had thrown oflf
his coat, and lain down on the sofa ; in short, that
lie did not choose to receive any visitors.
Here, then, was a termination to all oui' ex-
pectations ; and we rose to take leave with a mix-
ed feeling of regret at having lost the pleasure we
had promised ourselves ; some degree of provo-
cation at Napoleon's cavalier treatment of us ; and
perhaps a little dash of self-reproach, for having
given the whole aiFaif sucli immense importance.
After mounting our horses, and riding away
for about a quarter of a mile, it was recollected we
had not seen Dr O'Meara on lea^-ing the grounds
of Longwood ; and, having heard that this gentle-
man was intimately acquainted with Buonaparte's
disposition and habits, we turned our horses' heads
back again, and found the Doctor at the gate.
He gave us little or no hopes of accompMsliing a
sight of Buonaparte by any means he could think
of ; and we were just coming away, when I chan-
ced to mention my regret at not seeing tlie Empe-
ror, as I wished to ask about Brienne, where my
father. Sir James Hall, had passed some time at
the very period he was a student at the IMilitary
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 309
College there, Dr O'Meara said this materially
altered the case, since Buonapai^e took gi-eat in-
terest in every circumstance reLtive to Brienne,
however minute, and might very possibly have ad-
mitted me, had he known more particularly who
I was. He added, that Buonaparte had already
made some ^inquiries respecting the L)Ta's voy-
age to the East, but was not sufficiently inte-
rested by wliat he had heard, to see me on that
account alone ; and that some farther motive was
wanting to induce him to afford me an audience.
It was now, however, long past his usual hour of
seeing company, and Dr O'Meara recommended us
to go away for the night, promising, if an opportu-
nity occurred, to speak to him on the subject ; and,
if anything encouraging took place, to inform the
Governor of it by telegraph. With this slender
hope we again left Longwood ; my fi-iends took the
direct road to James's Town, while I recrossed the
hills to Plantation-House.
We were greatly surprised next morning not
to receive any telegi*aphic message, favourable or
otherwise ; but I kept my horse at the door, saddled,
and all ready to start at a moment's warning. At
one o'clock it was discovered that a signal had
been made and duly received, more than an horn-
before, at the gate of Plantation-House, to the fol-
lowing effect : — " General Buonaparte wishes to
see Captain Hall at two o'clock." The signal-man,
knowing nothing of me, naturally conceived that
I must be in James's Town, and repeated the sig-
nal to the Fort, near the anchorage ; so that it was
not until the message had been transmitted back
again from the town to Plantation-House, that I
knew anything of the matter.
310 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPAUTE.
It was as much as I could now do to save my
time, l)y galloping at the risk of my neck over the
hills to Longwood, at the gate of whicli I found
the other gentlemen, who had hurried from the
ship on hearing of the signal. The Countess Ber-
trand, to whose house we were conducted, was un-
affectedly delighted to hear the news. ^ Her rooms
were now all in order, the toothache gone, and
everything wore a more smiling aspect than on the
day before.
The Count informed us it was the Emperor's
desire that I should be introduced first, alone, and
my companions afterwards, together. As I had
been told of his impatient manner to those who
understood French imperfectly, I requested Gene-
ral Bertrand to be present, in case I should hap-
pen not to understand what was said, or, from
want of familiarity with tlie language, not be able
to make myself understood. He assm'ed me that
there need be no difficulty on this head ; and ob-
served, that I was quite mistaken in su])posing the
Emperor at all impatient on such occasions, since,
on the contrary, he was extremely considerate,
and always ready to make allowances. Thus reas-
sured, I proceeded to an anti-room, where I wait-
ed for about ten minutes, till a servant announced,
tliat his Majesty the Emperor was ready to re-
ceive me.
On entering the room, I saw Buonaparte standing
before the fire, with liis head leaning on his hand,
and his elbow resting on the chimney-piece. He
looked up, and came forward two paces, retm-ning
my salutation with a careless sort of bow, or nod.
His first question was, " What is your name ?"
INTEIlVli:Vv WITH BUONArARTE. 311
and, upon my answering, he said, " Ah, — Hall —
I knew your father when I was at the Military
College of Brienne — I remember liim perfectly —
lie was fond of mathematics — he did not associate
much with tlie yoimger part of the scholars, hut
rather with the priests and professors, in another
part of the town from that in which we lived."
He then paused for an instant, and as he seemed
to expect me to speak, I remarked, that I had often
Iieard my father mention the circumstance of his
Iiaving been at Brienne during the period referred
to ; but had never supposed it possible that a private
individual could be remembered at such a distance
of time, the interval of which had been filled with
so many important events. " Oh no," exclaimed
he, " it is not in the least surprising ; your fa-
ther was the first Englishman I ever saw, and I
have recollected him all my life on that account."
It may be right to mention here, that although
the conversation was carried on entirely in French,
I prefer reporting it in EngUsh, as I can be cer-
tain of conveying the con-ect meaning in a ti-ansla-
tion, while I could hardly pretend to give the pre-
cise words in the original language ; certainly not
the exact turn of expression ; and a false conception
might therefore be formed of what passed. The
notes from which this account is drawn up, were
made within a few hours after leaving Longwood,
before I slept, or was engaged in any other occu-
pation. But in fact, the impression left upon my
mind by the whole scene dwelt on my thoughts^
to the exclusion of ahuost everything else, for many
(l.tN s aften\'ards.
In a few seconds after making this remark, Buo-
312 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.
uaparte asked, with a playful expression of coun-
tenance, as if amused with what he was saying,
" Have you ever heard your father speak of me ?"
I replied instantly, " Very often." Upon which lie
said, in a quick, sharp tone, " What does he say of
me ?" The manner in which this was spoken seem-
ed to demand an immediate reply, and I said that I
had often heard him express gi-eat admiration of the
encouragement he had always given to science
while he was Emperor of the French. He laughed
and nodded repeatedly, as if gratified hy what was
said.
His next question was, " Did you ever hear
your father express any desire to see me ?" I re-
plied that I had heai'd him often say there was
no man alive so well worth seeing, and that he had
strictly enjoined me to wait upon him if ever I
should have an opportunity. " Very well," re-
torted Buonaparte, " if he really considers me such
a curiosity, and is so desirous to see me, why does
he not come to St Helena for that purpose ?" I
was at first at a loss to know whether this question
was put seriously or ironically ; but as I saw him
waiting for an answer, I said my father had too
many occupations and duties to fix him at home.
** Has he any public duties ? Does he fill a pub-
lic station?" I told him. None of an official na-
ture ; but that he was President of the Royal So-
ciety of Edinburgh, the duties of which claimed a
good deal of his time and attention. This obser-
vation gave rise to a series of inquiries respecting
the constitution of the Society in question. He
made me describe the duties of all the office-beaiers,
from the piesident to the secretaiy, and the manner
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 313
in which scientific papers were brought before the
society's notice : he seemed much struck, I thought,
and rather amused, with the custom of discussing
subjects publicly at the meetings in Edinbiu'gh.
When I told him the number of members was several
hundreds, he shook his head, and said, " All these
cannot surely be men of science I" When he had sa-
tisfied himself on this topic, he reverted to the sub-
ject of my father, and after seeming to make a cal-
culation, obsen-ed, " Your father must, I think, be
my senior by nine or ten years — at least nine — but
I think ten. Tell me, is it not so ?" I answered, that
he was very nearly correct. Upon which he laugh-
ed and turned almost completely round on his heel,
nodding his head several times. I did not presume
to ask him where the joke lay, but imagined he
was pleased with the correctness of his computa-
tion. He followed up his inquiries by begging to
know what number of children my father had ; and
did not quit this branch of the subject till he had
obtained a correct list of the ages and occupation
of the whole family. He then asked, " How long
were you in France ?" and on my saying I had not
yet visited that countr)', he desired to know where
I had learned French. I said, from Frenchmen on
board vaiious ships of war. " Were you the prisoner
amongst the French," he asked, " or were they
your prisoners?" I told him my teachers were
French officers captured by the ships I had served
in. He then desired me to describe the details of
the chase and capture of the ships we had m.ade
prize of; but soon se<^ing that this subject afford-
ed no point of any interest, he cut it short by
asking me about the Lyra's voyage to the Eastern
Seas, from which I was now returning. This topic
VOL. I. 2d
314 INTEUVIKW WITH liUON Al^AUTr. .
proved a new and fertile source of interest, ami lie
engaged in it, accordingly, witli the most astonish-
ing degree of eagerness.
The opportunities which his elevated station had
given Napoleon of ohtaining information on almost
every subject, and his vast power of rapid and cor-
rect observation, had rendered it a matter of so
much difficulty to place before him anything to-
tally new, that I considered myself fortunate in ha-
ving something to speak of beyond the mere com-
monplaces of a formal interview. Buonaparte has
always been supposed to have taken a particular
interest in Eastern aftairs ; and from the avidity
with which he seemed to devour the information
I gave him about Loo-Choo, China, and the adja-
cent countries, it was impossible to doubt the sin-
cerity of his oriental predilections. A notion
also prevails, if I am not mistaken, that his geo-
graphical knowledge of those distant regions was
rather loose — a charge which, by the way, Buo-
naparte probably shares with most people. I was,
therefore, not a little surprised to discover his ideas
upon the relative situation of the countries in the
China and Japan seas to be very distinct and pre-
cise. On my naming the island of Loo-Choo to
liim, he shook his head as if he had never heard of
it before, and made me tell him how it bore from
Canton, and what was the distance. He next asked
its bearing with respect to Japan and Manilla, by
the intersection of which three lines, in his imagi-
nation, he appeared to have settled its position
pretty accurately, since every observation he made
afterwards appeared to imply a recollection of this
particular point. For instance, when he spoke of the
probability of the manners and institutions of the
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE, 315
Loo-Chooans having been influenced by the inter-
ference of other countries, he drew correct inferen-
ces as far as geograpliical situation was concerned.
Having settled where the island lay, he cross-ques-
tioned me about the inhabitants with a closeness — I
may call it a severity of investigation — which far
exceeds everything I have met with in any other
instance. His questions were not by any means
put at random, but each one had some definite re-
ference to that which preceded it or was about to
follow. I felt in a short time so completely exposed
to his view, that it would have been impossible to
have concealed or qualified the smallest particular.
Such, indeed, was the rapidity of his apprehension
of the subjects which interested him, and the asto-
nishing ease with which he aiTanged and generalized
the few points of information I gave him, that he
sometimes outstripped my narrative, saw the con-
clusion I was coining to before I spoke it, and
fairly robbed me of my story.
Several cuxumstances, however, respecting the
Loo-Choo people, suqnised even him a good deal ;
and I had the satisfaction of seeing him more than
once completely perplexed, and unable to account
for the phenomena which I related. Nothing struck
him so much as their having no arms. " Point
d'armes !" he exclaimed, " e'est a dne point de
cannons — ils ont des fusils ?" Not erven mus-
kets, I replied. " Eh bien done — des lances, ou, au
moins, des ai'cs et des fleches ?" I told him they had
neither one nor other. " Ni poignards ?" cried lie,
with increasing vehemence. No, none. " Mais !"
said Buonaparte, clenching his fist, and raising his
voice to a loud pitch, " Mais ! sans armes, comment
86 bat-on ?
316 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPART'E.
I cotild only reply, that as far as we had been
able to discover, they had never had any wars, but
remained in a state of internal and external peace.
" No wars !" cried he, with a scornful and incredu-
lous expression, as if the existence of any people
under the sun without wars was a monstrous ano-
maly.
In like manner, but without being so much mo-
ved, he seemed to discredit the account I gave him
of their having no money, and of their setting no
value upon our silver or gold coins. After hearing
these facts stated, he mused for some time, mutter-
ing to himself, in a low tone, " Not know the use
of money — are careless about gold and silver."
Then looking up, he asked, sharply, " How then did
you contrive to pay these strangest of all people
for the bullocks and other good things which they
seem to have sent on board in such quantities ?"
When I informed him that we could not prevail
upon the people of Loo-Choo to receive payment
of any kind, he expressed great surprise at their
liberality, and made me repeat to him twice, the
list of things witli which we were supplied by these
hospitable islanders.
I had carried with me, at Count Bertrand's sug-
gestion, some drawings of the scenery and costume
of Loo-Choo and Corea, which I found of use in
describing the inhabitants. When we were speaking
of Corea, he took one of the drawings from me, and
rumiing his eye over the different parts, repeated to
himself, " An old man with a very large hat, and
long white beard, ha I — a long pipe in his hand
— a Chinese mat — a Chinese dress, — a man near
him writing — all very good, and distinctly drawn."
He then required me to tell him where the different
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 317
parts of these dresses were manufactured, and what
were the different prices — questions I could not
answer. He wislied to be infonned as to the state
of agriculture in Loo-Choo — whether they plough-
ed with horses or bullocks — how they managed
their crops, and whether or not their fields were
iirigated like those in China, where, as he under-
stood, the system of artificial watering was carried
to a great extent. The climate, the aspect of the
country, the structure of the houses and boats, the
fashion of their dresses, even to the minutest parti-
cular in the formation of their straw sandals and to-
bacco pouches, occupied his attention. He appeared
considerably amused at the pertinacity with which
they kept their women out of our sight, but repeat-
edly expressed himself much pleased with Captain
Maxwell's moderation and good sense, in forbearing
to urge any point upon the natives, which was dis-
agreeable to them, or contraiy to the laws of their
country. He asked many questions respecting tlie
religion of Cliina and Loo-Choo, and appetu-ed well
aware of the striking resemblance between the
appearance of the Catholic Priests and the Chi-
nese Bonzes ; a resemblance which, as he remark-
ed, extends to many parts of the religious cere-
monies of both. Here, however, as he also ob-
served, the comparison stops ; since the Bonzes of
Cliina exert no influence wdiatsoever over the minds
of the people, and never interfere in their temporal
or eternal concerns. In Loo-Choo, where every-
tiiing elso is so praiseworthy, the low state of the
priesthood is as remarkabl*; as in the neighbouring
continent, an anomaly which Buonaparte dwelt
I'.pon for some time without coming to any satis-
factory cxidanation.
2 I) 2
318 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.
With tlie oxception of a momentai y fit of scorn
and incredulity when told that the Loo-Chooans had
no wars or weapons of destruction, he was in high
good humour while examining me on tliese topics.
The cheerfulness, I may almost call it familiarity,
with which he conversed, not only put me quite
at ease in his presence, but made me repeatedly
forget that respectful attention with which it was
my duty, as well as my wish on every account,' to
treat the fallen monarch. The interest lie took in
topics which were then uppermost in my thoughts,
was a natural source of fresh animation in my own
case ; and I was thrown off" my g^Iard, more tlian
once, and unconsciously addressed him with an
unwaiTantable degree of freedom. When, how-
ever, I perceived my error, and of course checked
myself, he good-humouredly encouraged me to
go on in the same strain, in a manner so sincere
and altogether so kindly, that I was in the next
instant as much at my ease as before.
*^ What do these Loo-Choo Mends of yours know
of other countries ?" he asked. I told him they
were acquainted only wdth China and Japan.
" Yes, yes," continued he ; " but of Europe ? What
do they know of us ?" I replied, " They know no-
thing of Europe at all ; they know nothing about
France or England ; neither," I added, " have they
ever heard of your Majesty." Buonapai'te laughed
heartily at this extraordinary particular in the his-
tory of Loo-Choo, a circumstance, he may well
have thouglit, which distinguished it from every
other comer of the known world.
I held in my hand a drawing of Sulphur Island,
a solitary and desolate rock in the midst of the
Jnpan sea. He looked at it for a moment, and cried
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 819
out, " Why, tbis is St Helena itself." When he had
satisfied himself about our voyage, or at least bad
extracted everything I could tell him about it, lie
returned to the subject which had first occupied
him, and said in an abrupt way, " Is your father
an Edinburgh Reviewer ?" I answered, that the
names of the authors of that work were kept secret,
b^^t that some of my father s works liad been cri-
ticised in the Journal alluded to. Upon which
he turned half round on his heel towards Bertrand,
and nodding several times, said, with a significant
smile, '• Ha ! ha !" as if to imply his perfect know-
ledge of the distinction between author and cii-
tic.
Buonaparte then said, " Are you married ?" and
upon my repUdng in the negative, continued, "Why
not ? What is the reason you don't marry ?" I
was somewhat at a loss for a good answer, and re-
mained silent. He repeated his question, however,
in such a way, that I was forced to say something,
and told him I had been too busy all my life ; be-
sides which, I was not in circumstances to marry.
He did not seem to understand me, and again
wished to know why I was a bachelor. I told him
I was too poor a man to marry. " Aha !" he cried,
" I now see — want of money — no money — yes,
yes !" and laughed heartily ; in which I joined, of
course, though, to say the tnith, I did not altoge-
ther see the humorous point of the joke.
The last question he put related to the size
and force of the vessel I commanded, and then he
said, in a tone of authority, as if he had some
influence in the matter, " You will reach England
in thirty-five days," — a prophecy, by the by, which
faile<l miserably in the accomplishment, as we took
320 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.
sixty-two days, and wei-e nearly starved into the
bargain. After tliis remark he paused for about a
quarter of a minute, and then making me a sHght
inclination of his head, wished me a good voyage,
and stepping back a couple of paces, allowed me
to retire.
My friends, Mr Clifford and Mr Harvey, wore
now ])resented to liini. He put some civil com-
monplace questions, and after an audience of a few
minutes, dismissed them.
Buonaparte struck me as differing considerably
from the pictures and busts I had seen of him.
His face and figure looked much broader and
more square, larger, indeed, in every way, than
any representation I had met with. His corpu-
lency, at this time universally reported to be ex-
cessive, was by no means remarkable. His flesh
looked, on the contrary, firm and muscular. There
was not the least trace of colour in liis cheeks ; in
fact, his skin was more like marble than ordinary
flesh. Not the smallest trace of a wrinkle was dis-
cernible on his brow, nor an approach to a fur-
row on any part of his countenance. His health
and spirits, judging from appearances, were excel-
lent ; thougli at this period it was generally be-
lieved in England, that he was fast sinking under
a complication of diseases, and that his spirits were
entirely gone. His manner of speaking was rather
Blow than otherwise, and perfectly distinct : he
waited with great patience and kindness for my
answers to his questions, and a reference to Count
Bertrand was necessary only once during the
whole conversation. The brilliant and sometimes
dazzling expression of his eye could not be over-
looked. It was not, however, a permanent lustre,
INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE. 821
for it was only remarkable when he was excited by
some point of particular interest. It is impossible
to imagine an expression of more entire mildness, I
may almost call it of benignity and kindliness, than
that which played over his features during the wh(ne
interview. If, therefore, he were at this time out of
health and in low spirits, his power of self-command
must have been even more extraordinary than is ge-
nerally supposed ; for his whole deportment, his
conversation, and the expression of his countenance,
indicated a frame in perfect health and a mind at
We sailed next morning from St Helena, and
reached England in the middle of October, 1817,
after an absence of twenty months. In that brief in-
terval we had traversed a distance of nearly forty-
two thousand miles, or little short of twice the
circuit of the globe, having visited great part of
the coast of China, many islands of the Eastern
Archipelago and Japan seas, several of the principal
stations on the continent and islands of India, and
twice rounded the Cape of Good Hope.
The peculiar interest of this voyage, however,
arose less from the extent than from the great va-
riety of its range, which not only included both
hemispheres, and every description of climate and
scenery, but brought us, in rapid succession, into
close contact with many of the most remarkable
nations of the earth. Some of these countries were
well known before ; yet they were scarcely on that
account less interesting : while others had remained
almost entirely unknown previous to our visit.
The busy nature of the voyage, while it abridged
322 .&; CONCLUSION.
our mofinR of cfivcful, or ratlier of miinU(; observa-
tion, afforded excellent opportunities of comparison
between j)lace and place, while the ima|ic of each
was still Iresh in the memory. And althoufjli only
a, small part of our adventures lias })een here do
scribed, enoug^h, perhaps, has been told to justify
the reflection which tlie whole, taken together, h.'ft
upon our minds at the conclusion ; that liowever
remarkably nature may be diversified in external
aspect, it is still more essentially distinguished, by
the boundless variety of human character and in-
stitutions. '
END OF VOYAGE TO THE EASTERN SEAS.f,
FDlxnuRtiH:
rRINTED BV JAMES DALLAXT Y N' E AKP CO.
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Los Angeles
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