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Full text of "Handbook to Singapore with Map, and a Plan of the Botanical Gardens"

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ADVEKTISEMENTS. 



}o^n iLiilfe 65 60., 

MERCHANTS and STOREKEEPERS. 



WINES and PROVISIONS. 

LADIES' and GENTLEMEN'S OUTFITTERS. 

WATCHMAKERS and JEWELLERS. 

BOOKSELLERS and STATIONERS. 
FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS. 



-^— 4- 



:lqcnts for: 
A. Usher <Sc Co.'s "GLENLIVET" Whi&ky. 
Pommery & Greno's Champagne. 
E. & J. Burke*s Ale and Stout. 
Mappin <& Webb's Silver and Plated >A^are. 
H. S. King <& Co., London. 



Photographs and Views of Singapore 
JOHORE, Sarawak, Siam. 

'£WlIOfMWHIGAH LIBRARIES 



The CEliliKElBOQ^SUO^ 
Box ^ . Co\lea« PvlxVl SXa^. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



SARKIES BROTHERS. 

PROPRIETORS. 

Raffles Hutel, Singapore. 
Eastern & Oriental Hotel; Pexang. 
Sarkies' Hotel, Rangoon. 



f elegraliic Address : 
Ratties, Sinfjrapore. 
Sarkies, Penang. 
Sarkies, Rangoon. 
— o— 
A. B.C. Code 4th Edition* 



RflFFiies %mEh, 




mgap©^e 



Accommodation for Single and Married Couples. 

Ctiisine of Highest Character is served at separate 
tables. Klectric bells throughout the buildings. 

Visitors and Boarders are allowed to have their 
lunch at the Raffles TifEn Rooms, Raffles Square, 
FRKK OF EXTRA CHARGE. 

BilHard Room is in a separate block. 



EASTERN & ORIENTAL HOTEL. Penang. 

The only first olass Hotel in the Island. 



.*> 



SARKIES' HOTEL, Rangoon. 

The Leading Hotel of Burm&tv. 



CuOA*" ^'"'■^'^ 




HANDBOOK 



TO 



SINGAPORE, 



With MAP, 



AND A 



PL.AN OF THE BOTANICAL. GARDENS. 



First Edition. 



BY. 



The Rev. G. M. REITH, ivi.a. 



iirtn0R|Tore : 

Thk Sinoapork and Straits Printino Office, Robinson Sircet. 

1893. 
{^All Rightt Reterved."] 



Ds 

•S7 

R38 



singapore: printed at 
The "Singapore and Straits Printing Office.' 



OtL. 



In compliance with current 
copyright law, LBS Archival 

Products produced this 

replacement volume on paper 

that meets the ANSI Standard 

Z39.48-1984 to replace the 

irreparably deteriorated 

original. 

1990 

TM 




00 



C^^ -llhCfbCj 



PREFACE. 



•I- 




handbook has been compiled specially for 
the benefit of visitors to Singapore, who have 
a few hours to a few days to spend in the 
town. It is intended to supply a felt want in Singapore ; 
to give in a handy form some notes historical, descriptive, 
scientific, <fec., in regard to the town and island; to afford 
what information is necessary to guide visitors during their 
stay, and to obviate some of the difficulties which travellers 
always encounter in a strange place. This work is the first 
of its kind published in the Settlement. The Stranger^ s 
Guide to Singapore by Mr. B. E. D* Aran jo (1890), and 
Picturesque and Busy Singapore by Mr. T. J. Keaughran, 
reprinted in 1887 from the Straits Times, are in circula- 
tion, but the former is more limited in its scope than the 
present work, and the latter too general to be of practical 
value as a guide-book. To both, however, this handbook 
is indebted for some of its information. The authority 
for the historical introduction is mainly a series of articles, 
entitled the Anecdotal History of Singapore, which 
appeared in the Singapore Free Press some years ago, 
from the pen of a well-known resident. The collection 
of reliable information has been a matter of some 
difficulty ; but care has been taken to make the work as 
accurate as possible ; and it is hoped that future editions, 
if they are called for, will correct the errors that may have 
crept into this edition, and render the work what it is 
intended to be, a useful vade-mecum for visitors to Singa- 
pore. 



IV 



PREFACK. 



I am deeply indebted to W. Davison, Esq., of the 
Kaffles Library and Museum, for his notes on the Singa- 
pore Fauna, an abridgoment of which is in Chap. XIII.; 
and to H. N. Ridley, Esq., p.l.s., Government Directoi* of 
Gardens and Forests, for his paper on the Fh>ra and 



Geology of the island. 



G. M. R. 



Singapore, 

Avgust, 1892. 




CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Page. 
Historical Introduction 1 

CHAPTER II. 

The Government — The Garrison and Defknces — 
Justice — The Municipality of Singapore — 
Police — Revenue 19 

CHAPTER III. 
General Description of the Town and Environs. 25 

CHAPTER lY. 
Favourite Walks AND Drives... 34 

Prom Iho Wharves to Singapore Town and 
thence to the IJotanical Gardens via the E.si»hinade 
and Orchard lioad — From the Whirves to the Im- 
pounding Reservoir nia Jiinicapore Town — From the 
Wharves to Kranji via Sinir«vpore Town, and thence 
to Johore Bharu. 

CHAPTER V. 

Public Buildings AND Places OF Interest ... -13 

Botanical Gardens — Boustead Institute — Bukit 
Timah — Bukit Timah Cemetery — Chinese Protecto- 
rate — Churches— -Clubs — Docks — Esplan.ide— Drill 
Hall — The Exdianj4:e smd Chamber of Commerce — 
Fort Can nin.i,'— -Gaol — Government House— Govern- 
ment Otfices — Hospitals — Hotels— Ladies' Lawn or 
Dhoby Ghaut— Marine Department and Shippin.:^ 
Oflice — ^larkets — Monumen Is — Old Cemetery — 
Police Court and Court of lletiuesta— Central Police 
Station— General Post Ottice — Race Course — llafUes 
Institution — Kafllcs Library and Mu.'<oum — Keser- 
voirs— Rillo lianne, B:ilestier — Sailors' Home — 
Sailors' Rest — St Andrew's lIou.se — St. Joseph's 
Institution — Shrine of Iskandcr Khan — i^hrine of 
Habib Noor — Supreme Court — Tanglin Barracks 
—Town HaU— Tyersa\\---'W\iMsr^^ Qj^x^^iJkak^ 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Page. 
Places OF WoBSHip AND Hospitals 64 

The Church of England - The Presbyterian 
Church of Pmgland — The Methodist Episcopal 
Church — Roman Catholic — Armenian — Miscellane- 
ous—Jewish — Mahommedau — Indian and Chinese 
Temples — Hospitals. 

CHAPTER VII. 
The Population OF Singapore 71 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Clubs, Societies, Banks, Consulates, Hotels, 
Shops, &c. 76 

Clubs — Literary and Scientific Societies — Politi- 
cal — Musical — Religious — Sporting and Athletic — 
Msisonic — Miscellaneous — Banks — Consulates — 
Hotels— Livery Stables — Post Office — Telegraph 
Office — Tiffin and Billiard Rooms — General Stores — 
Booksellers and Stationers — Printers and Book- 
binders — Newspaper Offices— Tailors and Outfitters — 
Dispensaries — Slineral and Aerated AVater Manu- 
facturers — Furniture Warehouses. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Rates op Hibe fob Pbivate and Hackney Cab- 
BiAQES, WITH Tables OF Distances 82 

Tables of Fares — Tables of Distances — Malay 
names of the Principal Buildings and Places of In- 
terest — Malay Phrases, &c. 

CHAPTER X. 

Steam Communication between Singapobe and 
otheb pobts 95 

Principal Steamship Lines and Agents — Owners 
or Agents for various Local Steamers — List of Ports 
with reference to Steamship Lines and Agents- 

CHAPTER XI. 

CuBBENCY, Weights, Measubes, Time, &c 102 

CHAPTER XII. 
Imports, Uxpobts, Shipping, &c., Singapobe ... 106 



CONTENTS. Vll 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Page. 

The Fauna, Floba, and Geology of Singapoee . . . 108 

The Fauna of Siiij^apore Island — The Flora of 
Singapore Inland — Geological Features. 

CHAPTER XIY. 

Climate, Monsoons, &c 124 

Climate and Monsoons — Annual Abstract of 
Haiufall for 1890— Annual Abstract of Meteorolo- 
gical Observations for 1890. 

CHAPTER XV. 
The Malay Language and Literature 129 



Tramway Time Table 135 



MAPS. 

Map op Singapore Facivg page 1 

Index TO Map Page ix 

Plan OF Botanical Gardens Facing page 43 




CORRIGENDA, 



Page 2. — " The hurricane and the earthquake are unknown 

in Singapore." While this handbook was pass- 
ing thi-ough the press a slight earthquake was 
felt in Singapore (May, 18J.»2). The Malay 
Peninsula and Sumatra were affected at the 
same time; the disturbance probably came 
from the centre of the latter. A similai* earth- 
tremor is recorded, as having occurred in 
Singapore, in 1861. The residents in the 
town, however, continue to believe in the 
immunity of the island from serious earth- 
quakes, owing to its position, and to the 
fact that the tremors felt in 1861 and 1892 
were mere vibrations indicating that a violent 
disturbance had taken place somewhere on 
the long volcanic belt. 

Page 6 (Note).— For Chapter XIV., read Chapter XV. 

Page 38. — Since going to press the Victoria Begia has died. 

Page 59. — On the opening of the Boustead Institute for 

Seamen by H. E. the Governor on July 2nd, 
1892, The Sailors* Rest was closed, its work 
being can-ied on by the Boustead Institute, a 
handsome three-storied building at the comer 
of Tanjong Pagar and Anson Road. This 
Institution has been founded by tbe executors 
of the late Mr. Edward Boustead, and is a 
Coffee and Boarding House for Seamen. 
Evangelistic services are held there on Sun- 
days. 

Page 84. — For Tramway Time Table, see page 135. 



INDEX TO MAP. 



XOTK. 

The Letters and j^Cumbcrs after the names eorrespond 

with these in the borders cf the map, and indicate 

the square in which the name will be found. 



Abbotsford 

Abrains' llorso Repository 

Adelphi Hotel . 

Alard Road 

Albert Dock . 

Albert Street . 

Alexandra Koad 



F G 
GIO 
HIO 
E 11 
L 9 
F 10 
(K 2 
(H 3 



Alexandra Rond Police 




Station 


H 3 


Almeida Street 


I 9 


Amaranth 


E 8 


Amoy Street . 


J 9 


Angus Bun;(nlow 


E 8 


An<(U9 Street . 


11 9 


Annan Bank 


II 8 


Anson Road 


K 9 


A];>otliecaries' Quarters 




(Criminal Prison) 


I 8 


Arab Street 


Pll 


Ardmore .... 


E 6 


Armenian Church 


H 9 


Armenian Street 


GIO 


Arsenal, H. M/s 


I 8 


Ashestiel .... 


E 6 


Ash ton Lodjs'e . 


E 9 


Assistant Colonial Secre- 




tary's Residence . 


E 8 


Assistant Superintendent 




of Police's Quarters 


J 8 


Atjeh House 


F 7 


Ayer Nipah 


K - 



Bachelors' Hall 

Back Road 

Bain Street 

Balaclava 

Balado .... 

Baleave .... 

Balestier Plain 

Balcstier Road 

Bailey Lane 

Balmoral .... 

Iknda Street 

Barj^anny Lod^o 

Barracks, Tangliu 

Beach Hotel 

Beach Road Police Station 

Beaconsfield 

Behn Meyer's Oil Stores . 

Beldemeor 

Belle Air .... 

Bellevue (Orchard Road). 

Belle Vue Bungalow 

Belle Vue Cottage . 

Belle Vue (off Tank Road) 

Bellmont . . . . 

Belviderc . . . . 

Bencoolen Street 

Berlaycr Point 

Berlayer River 

Birch Road 

Bishop's House 



E 




G 


9 


GIO 


1) 


4 


G 


7 


G 


7 


Bll 


CB 


9 


K'll 


Ell 


J) 


6 


J 


9 


E 


8 


E 


3 


Gil 


Ell 


J 


7 


E 15 


E 


8 


G 


8 


E 


9 


G 


8 


G 


8 


G 


8 


E 


9 


E 


6 


E 


10 


M 


2 


h 


3 


1)10 


GVS 


. ^ ^ 



INDEX TO MAP. 



Blanche House 


E 7 


Blanco Road 


Fll 


Blanga Bay 


L 6 


Blind Alley 


FIX 


Boat Quay 


H 9 


Bon Accord House . 


E 10 


Bouliani Street 


I 10 


Bonny Grass . 


G 8 


Borneo Wharf . 


L 7 


Botan House . 


J 8 


Botanical Gardens . 


E 4 


Boustead &. Co.'s Kerosene 




Oil Stores . 


G]5 


Brass Bassa B/Oad 


GIO 


Brick Fields, To 


BIO 


Brickworks, Sinj^apore 




(Balestier) 


Bll 


Brickworks, Singapore 




(Siran.i(oon) . 


B13 


Broadfields 


F 


Brothers' School 


G 10 


Buffalo Road . 


E 9 


Bu^is Street 


Fll 


Buitenzorg 


F 6 


Bukit Berkek . 


E 7 


Bukit Arang, To 


A 10 


Bukit Chermin 


L 3 


Bukit Guthrie . 


K 9 


Bukit Passoo . 


J 8 


Bukit Purmi . 


K 6 


Bukit Radin Mass . 


K 6 


Bukit Timah Road . 


(A 1 
ID 7 


Bukit Tunggal 


C 8 


Burial Ground Road 


J 5 


Burniah Road . 


DIO 


Burn Brae 


F 6 


B umbrae ..." 


E 6 


Burnside .... 


F 6 


Bushey Park . 


L 6 


Cairn Hill 


£ 8 


Cairn Hill House 


£ 8 


Cairn Hill Cottage . 


E 7 


Cambo House . 


G 8 


Canibo Cottage 


G 8 


Campbell Lane 


ElO 


Canal Road 


H 8 


Canton Street . 


I 10 


Carpenter ^Street 


H 9 



Carrington House 


F 9 


Cash in Street . 


GIO 


Castle Lodge . 


F 8 


Castle, The . 


E >\ 


Castle, The (Oxley Road; 


F 8 


Cavenagh Bridge 


I 10 


Cavenaich Road 


F 8 


Cecil Street 


J 9 


Cemetery, New 


B 9 


Cemetery, Old (Fort 




Canning) 


G 9 


Cemetery, Protestant and 




Roman Catholic . 


B 9 


Central Hotel . 


GIO 


Chancery House 


B 7 


Chancery Lane 


C 7 


Chasseriau Estate 


A - 


Chats worth 


G 5 


Cheang Hong Lim Quay . 


H 9 


Cheang Hong Lim Street 


I 10 


Cheang Te Road 


FU 


Chermin Bay . 


L 3 


Chin Chew Street •. 


I 9 


Chin Chew Street, Upper 


I 9 


Chinese Burial Ground 




(Orchard Road) 


F 7 


Chinese Club . 


1) 8 


Chinese Girls' School 


F 9 


Chinese Pavilion 


I 9 


Chinese Protectorate 


I 9 


Chin Nin Street 


H 9 


ChittyRoad . 


£11 


Church Street . 


I 10 


Circular Road, Upper 


H 9 


Claregrove 


F 8 


Clarelands 


£ 5 


Claremont 


F 9 


Clark Quay 


H 9 


Cliff House 


M 3 


Clifton House . 


F 9 


Clive Street 


£10 


Clovelly .... 


£ 6 


Club Street 


I 9 


Cluny .... 


D 3 


Cluny T rouse . 


1) 3 


Clyde Street . 


Fll 


Clyde Terrace Market 


G n 


Clyde Villa . 


F 5 


Coleman Bridge 


H 9 



INDEX TO MAP. 



Colemau Street 


H)0 


Ensfiuoer's Qrs,, Pumping 




Collyer Quay . 


I 10 


Station 


E g 


Colonial Sewetary'» i;«si- 




ErinLodye . . . 


F 8 


dynuo . 


F 


Ernestine Lust 


F 8 


Coloniiil Seereturj's Resi- 




fckljank 


E 5 


dence, Asgiutaut . 


1' 8 


E.-'kbnnk Collaiie 


E 5 


Cotaiiial Surgeon's Quar- 




lliireka CollaRO 


G 8 


ters .. . 


J 7 


Everton 


J 8 


Commissariat Buildiu^'s 


I 8 


Excliant'enidClub, 


I lU 


Confederate Estate . 


D]S 


Fairy Glen 


G H 


CoDveiit . 


GIO 


Fern Collage . 


V 8 


Couufil Chnmber . 


HJO 


Fei-ii Hill . . 


D 6 


Cnii« Hill . . . 


J H 


Fern Villa (KiUineyltoad) 


U 8 


Crai}f Road . 


J S 


Fern Villa (River Valley 




Cricket Club Ground 




. Eond) .... 


O 7 


Sinjtapore . 


flio 


Filter Beds 


E 9 


CrickBl Ground, Tanttliii 




FinhysonGreeu . 


I 10 


(MiliUryl . 
Cnminal l-risoii 


F 3 

I S 


Fish Street 
Fisher Street . 


II 
11 9 


Cross Gardeu EoaU . 


C fl 


Ford Street 


HIO 


Cross Street 


I 


Forte 


G 9 


Cross Street 3i:liool . 


I 1) 


Fr "er Street 


Fll 


Cross Street, Upper . 


I 9 


G X W orks 


E13 


l>.Ihou8Le Lniie . . 


ElO 


( el Pot ee SI 1 


D17 


ITAlmeida Eoad 


D 


(el a B er 


F 15 


Dalvey . . . , 


D 5 


G 1 tRo d 


DM 


Damar Roiid . 


H 1) 


C e enl Hosj t i 


J 7 


Deaurow . 


F a 


Ge erjl Host '"' '^ r^e 




Dovou Villa . 


<; a 


Quarter 


J 7 




a N 


Ge eral 1 o t Oflice 


I 10 


Devonshire Eoad . 


u a 


Genrye Street 


I 


IMcktusouMill. 


I 8 


G 11 U n M ood i. Co s 




DinKwall 


K 1 


(.odon:n(H clock Rd) 


H 8 


Dovecot 


G G 


Gle rrj 


G 8 


Doves Nesl 


G 8 


Gle 1 Oi( n 


F !) 


Draycot 


B 7 


OolEL k 


DlO 


Drill Hall, S. V. A. . 


I 10 


Coodwood 


E 7 


Duiiearti . . . . 


C 7 


t over mt t Ho e 


E 


Duq1o|j Street . 


ElO 


Uo er n e t Pr 1 i. 




Dunmaii Street 


E 10 


Office 


HIO 


DuxtoQ Koad . 


J 


Gru dSti tl Rjct, Course 


DlO 


East Road . . - 


H 9 


( r 1, K 1 


F 7 


EberEoad 


F 8 


Oni ^e lie 


G 6 




F 9 


far -, Bt k 


U 8 


Edrinjtton 


G 8 


a-^alo 


O 7 


Education OQice 


H 


(ra 1 nl 


G 7 


EIniuBridse - 


MIO 


Gree h 11 


V 8 


Bllenborouuli Street 


H 


Gree \ llej 


E 8 


Emerald Hill . 


K 8 


Grove Tlw 


<i\S. 



xu 



INDEX TO MAP. 



Guthrie's Village 
Hack Laue 
Hadjee Lane . 
Hallpike Street 
Harbour Limit (Western) 
Havelock Road 
Havelock Road Police 

Station 
Herat .... 
Heytor ... 

High Street 
Hilang Lane 
Hillside. 
Hill Side Cottage 
Hill Street 
H. M.'s Arsenal 
Hock Lam Street 
Hodeen's Housse 
Hokieu Street 
Hokien Street, Upper 
Holland Road 
HoUoway Lane 
Holne Chase 
Holyrood 
Hongkong Street 
Hong Lim's Market 
Honolulu 

Hotel de I'Europe . 
Howarth Erskine, Ltd.*s 

Works .... 
Hurricane 
Hylam Street . 
Ice Works (River Valley 

Road) .... 
Ice AVorks (Rochore Canal 

Road) .... 
Ice Works (Serangoon) . 
Iclii Ban .... 
Institution Hill 
Irwell Banlc 
Irwell Bjink Road 
Jalan Besar 
Jalan Nipali 
Jalan Sultan 
Jalan Tambah 
Japan Street 
Jardine Matheson &, Co.'s 

Wharf. 
JavaBoad 



K 





F 


8 


F 11 


HIO 


M 


2 


H 


6 


H 


7 


G 


8 


F 


5 


HlO 


E 10 


F 


9 


F 


9 


HIO 


I 


8 


HIO 


L 


3 


I 


9 


I 


9 


E 


.. 


GIO 


F 


5 


D 


G 


H 


9 


H 


7 


•F 


9 


H 10 


H 


8 


E 


6 


Gil 


H 


9 


E 11 


B13 


L 


3 


G 


8 


G 





G 


G 


E 11 


K 


11 


E 11 


E 10 


J 


10 


L 


6 


F12 



Jeddah Street . 
Jessamine Cottage . 
Johnston's Pier 
Johore Lane 
Johore Road 
Judith House . 
Kallang River . 
Kampong Bharu Police 

Station 
Kampong Boyan 
Kampong Bugis 
Kampong Java Road 
Kampong Kallang . 
Kampong Kapoor . 
Kampong Laut 
Kampong Malacca . 
Kampong Pahang . 
Kampong Rokok 
Kampong Saigon 
Kandang Kerbau 
Kandang Kerbau Police 

Station 
Kanisah Merican Road 
Keppel Road 
Keng Cheow Street . 
Kerbau Lane . 
Kerbau Road . 
Kerosene Oil Stores 

("Gelang; . 
Kerosene Oil Stores 
Kerosene Oil Stores 

(Boustead & Co.'s) 
Kerr Street 
Killiney Lodge 
Killiney Road . 
Kim Seng Bridge . 
Kingston House 
KintaRoad 
Kling Street . 
Koek's Orchard Road 

Market 
Koon Hong's Estate, To 
Labrador Villa . 
Ladies' Lawn Tennis Club 
Lady Hill 

Lamlicrt Brothers . 
Lanercost 
Langlands 
Laundry, Steam 



F 11 
F 9 

I 10 
F 11 
FU 
E 7 
F 13 

K G 

E n 

E 13 
D 8 
E U 
E 10 
E 13 

II 8 
K G 
E M 
H 8 
ElO 

E 10 
H 8 
L G 
H 9 
E 10 
E 10 

D 13 
E 15 

G15 
H 9 
G 8 
G 8 
H 7 
L 4 
D 10 
I 10 

F 8 

A 9 

L 1 
GlO 

E 5 

F 9 

G 7 

G 7 

D 7 



INDEX TO MAP. 



xni 



Laura Villa . E 7 

Lavender Street . D 12 

Leonie Cottage . G 7 

Leonie Hill 7 

Leper Hospital . C 10 

Librar}* and Museum G 9 

L. Krian . . F 11 

Lloyd Eoad . G 8 

Lochiel Lodge . . G 7 

Lock Hospital . . E 9 

Lot's Wife . M 2 

Lunatic Asylum . J 7 

Lurong Teluk . . I 10 

Lyndhurst (Llovd Boad) . G 8 

Lyndhurst (Mt. Elizabeth) E 7 

Lyon, J. M., & Co.'s Works F 12 

Macao Street . .19 

Macao Street, Upper I 9 

Mackenzie Boad . E 9 

Magazine Boad . H 8 

Magazines .17 

Maisonette . F 5 

Malay Street . . F 11 

Malagar Street .Gil 

M. Alley Lane .19 

Manila Street . . F 10 

Manor House . . E 7 

Mapledurham . . E 7 

Marine Police Station G 12 

Market CBochore; . . E 13 

Market (Baffles Quay; . J 10 

Market Street . . I 10 

Masonic HaU . . H 9 

Master Attendant s Office I 10 

Mayfield . .EC. 

McCallum Street . J 9 

McPherson Boad . A 13 

Merchant Boad . H 9 
Methodist Episcopal 

Church . G 9 

Middle Boad . . F 10 

MUitary Bifle Ban^e . F 3 

Minto Boad . . F 12 

Mirabau Boad . . H 8 
Mission House CNiel Boad) J 8 
Mission House (Stamford 

Boad; . .GO 

Mission Chapel . G 9 

Monastery . L 6 



\ 



Monks Hill . D 8 

Monks Hill Cottasre . E 8 

Monks Hill House . . E 8 

^lonti Bosa . G 7 

Mosque Street . .19 

Moss Bank .37 

Mount Alma . D i 

Mount Alma House D 4 

Mount Bank . . E 8 

Mount Carey . . H 7 

Mount Echo . G 4 

Mount Elizabeth . E 7 

Mouut Elizabeth Cottage E 7 

Mount Erskine . J 9 

Mount Faber . . L 5 

Mouut Fuber Flagstaff . K 5 

Mount Narcis . . K 8 

Mount Palmer . . K 9 

Mouut Bosie . B 7 

Mount Stevens . G 8 

Mount Victoria .DC 

Mount Wallich . J 9 

Mount Zion . G ti 

Mount Zion Cottage . G 6 

MuarBoad . Fll 

Nankin Street . .19 

Nankin Street, Upper . I 9 

Napier Boad . E 4 

Nassim Hill . E 5 

Nassim Lod«re . . E 4 

Neidpath . D (» 

Neuk, The . G 8 

New Bridge Boad . J 8 

New Cemetery . D 9 

New Harbour Dock L 4 

New Market Boad . .HO 

NielBoad . . J 8 

North Boat Quay . . H 9 

North Bridge Boad . . H 10 

North Canal Boad . .19 

North Boad . H 9 

Norwood . . . G 7 
Nurses* Quarters (General 

Hospital) . . J 7 

Obelisk . . HlO 
Officers' Mess House, 

Tanglin . F 4 

Offices, Public . . .HlO 



XIV 



INDEX TO MAP. 



Olga Lodge 


G 7 


Portuguese Church . 


GIO 


Omar Koad 


H 9 


Presbyterian Church 


G 9 


One Tree Hill . 


F « 


Princep Street . 


FIO 


Ophir Road 


Fll 


Priory, The 


G 8 


Orange Grove . 


E 6 


Protestant and Roman 




Orchard Road Police 




Catholic Cemetery 


D 9 


Station 


F 7 


Public Offices . 


HIO 


Orchard House 


E G 


Pulau Gelang . 


F15 


Orchard Road . 


E 6 


Pulau Hantu . 


M 3 


Orchard Villa . 


F 9 


Pumping Station (Mac- 




Ord Bridge 


H 9 


Kenzie Road) 


E 9 


Osborne House 


F 9 


Pyah Line 


F 8 


Outram Road . 


H 7 


Quarantine Station for 




Oxley Road 


G 8 


Animals 


F 12 


Paddock (Race Course) . 


DIG 


Queen Street . 


GIO 


Paint "Works, Singapore 




Race Course . 


DIO 


Patent . 


D 8 


Race Course Road . 


E 10 


Pagoda Street . 


I 9 


Raebnrn Estate 


K 7 


Pagar Spit 


L 9 


Raeburn House 


K 7 


Palembang Road 


F12 


Raffles Girls and Boys' 




Panglima Prang 


G 7 


School 


GIO 


Parade Ground, Military 




Raffles Hotel . 


GU 


(Tanglin) . 


F 4 


Raffles Place . 


1 10 


Park House 


G 8 


Kaffles Plain . 


HIO 


Park Villa 


G 8 


Raffles Quay , 


J 10 


Parsee Lodge . 


K 9 


Raffles Statue 


HIO 


Paser Lane 


Ell 


Ramah Street 


I 9 


Pasir Panjang 


K - 


Rangoon Road 


CIO 


Pasir Panjang Road 


K - 


Ranuoch Lodge 


G 7 


Patent Slip 


G13 


Read Bridge . 


H 9 


Paterson Road . 


F G 


Recreation Club Ground . 


HIO 


Pauper Hospital 


C 11 


Richmond Lodge . 


G 8 


Pavilion (S'pore Cricket 




Rifle Range (Balestier 




Club) .... 


HIO 


Plain) 


B U 


Pavilion,The(off Tank Rd.) 


G 8 


Rifle Rmge (Military) . 


F 3 


Payah Lebar Road . 


A 16 


River Valley Road . 


G G 


Pearls Hill , 


I 8 


Robert's Road . 


DIO 


Pearls Hill Road , 


I 8 


Robinson Road 


J 9 


Pekin Street . 


I 9 


' Rochalie 


F 5 


Peninsular and Oriental 




Rochor Canal Road . 


Flo 


S. N. Co.'s Wharf 


M 5 


Rochor Police Station . 


E12 


People's Park . 


I 8 


Rochor River . 


F12 


Perak Road . 


F 10 


Rochor Road . 


F 11 


Perseverance Estate 


C17 


Rock Hill 


D G 


Phillip Street . 


I 10 


Regie .... 


D 4 


Police Bharu . 


HlO 


Roman Catholic Church . 


GIO 


Police Court . 


I 9 


Rose Bank 


E 7 


Po)}ce Parade Ground (Tank 


Rose Cottage . 


G 8 


JSoadJ .... 


9 


Roselands 


G G 



INDEX TO MAP. 



XV 



Bosemary 


G 4 


South Road 


H 9 


Rosemount House . 


F 9 


Spottiswoode House 


K 8 


Runiah Miskin Police 




Spottiswoode Lodge 


K 7 


Station 
Sago Lane 


C 11 
J 


Spottiswoode Park . 


(K 7 
[K 8 


Sa^o Street 


I 


Spring Field Cotta^re 


G 8 


Sailors* Home . 


GIO 


Spring Grove . 


G C 


Samba wa Road 


E12 


Spring Street . 


J 


Sans Souoio (River Valley 




Sree Sophia 


F 9 


Road) 


G 8 


Stamford Road 


GIO 


Sans Soiicie (St. Thomas' 




St. Andrew's Cathedral . 


HIO 


Walk) 


G 7 


St. Andrew's House 


G 


Saryah River . 


K 7 


Stanmore 


F 5 


Scott's Road 


E 7 


Steam Laundry 


D 7 


Selegie Road . 


F 10 


Stevens' Road *. 


C 5 


Sepoy Lines . 


J 8 


St. Helens 


G 7 


Serangoon Road 


E 10 


St. James' 


L 6 


Serangoon, To 


A1:J 


St. Thomas . 


G 7 


Shaik Madersah Lane 


Fll 


St. Thomas' AValk . 


G 7 


Sharon (River Valley 




Straits Hotel . 


GIO 


Road) .... 


G 8 


Sutfolk House, 


F 9 


Sharon (Wilkie Road) 


F 9 


Sultan Gate . 


F12 


Sherwood Cottatro . 


F 6 


Suprintondentof Pri.<son's 




Short Street . 


FIO 


Quarters 


I 8 


Sibet Bay 


L ♦> 


Supreme Court 


HIO 


Silat Road 


K 


Synagogue 


110 


Singapore and Straits 




Sycd Alley Road . 


D 8 


Aerated Water Co. . 


I 10 


Syed Alvvee Road . 


Ell 


Singapore and Straits 




'lambusu 


H 8 


Printing Office 


I 10 


Tampeuis Road 


H 8 


Singapore Brick Works 




Tangliu Barracks . 


F 3 


(Balestier) . 


B 11 


Tangliu Club . 


E 7 


Singapore Brick Works 




Tangliu Road . 


H 1 


(Sirangoon) 


B13 


Tank (Fort Canning) . 


G 9 


Singapore Cricket Club 




Tank Road 


G 


Ground 


HIO 


Tan Quee Lan Street 


GU 


Singapore Oil Factory 


E 


Tanjong Katong 


G16 


Singapore River 


[ 10 


Tanjoug Katong Road . 


D 17 


Singapore Patent Paint 




Tanjong Mallang . 


Klo 


Works 


D 8 


Tanjong Pagar Docks 


L 8 


Singapore Slipway Com- 




Tanjoug Pagar Land Co.'s 




pany 


G13 


Proi)erty 


K 9 


Singapore Volunteer Ar- 




Tanjong Pagar Market . 


K 9 


tillery Drill Hall 


I 10 


Tanjong Pagar Police 




Small Pox Hospital 


C 10 


Station 


K 9 


Smith Street 


I 9 


Tanjong Pagar Road 


K 


Somerset Road 


F 8 


Tanjong Rhu . 


G13 


South Boat Quay . 


I 10 


Tanioug B.\xvi, V\^^».^<fe 


<^^!^ 


South Bridge Boad . 


I 


\ Te\%««\)\vCQ:^\i«\*i"^ 


, ^ ** 



XVI 



INDEX TO MAP. 



Teluk Ayer Police Station 
Teluk Aj-er Street . 

Teluk Blanjfa RoaU 

Teluk Blan<j^a Police 

Station 
Temple .... 
Teutonia Club 
The Castle (Oxley Road) . 
The Castle (Cavenah Rd.) 
The Grange 
The Grove 
The Mount 
The Neuk 
The Pavilion * (off Tank 

Road) . 
The Priorv 
Tiverton House 
Tiverton Lane . 
Thomson Road 
Thomson Road Police 

Station 
Town Hall 
Tramway Depot 
Trin^anu Street 
Tyersall . 
Upper Chin Chew Street 
Upper Circular Road 
Upper Cross Street 
Upper Hokien Street 
Upper Macao Street 
Upper Nankin Street 



no 

J 

(i K 2 
(. L .> 



L 
J 
E 
F 



o 

7 
7 

8 



E S 

G i) 

G 18 

G 6 

G 8 

G 8 

G 8 

G 8 

G 8 

8 

B 8 
HIO 

K 8 

1 
E 3 
I 
H i> 
I 9 
I 9 
I 9 
I 9 



Upper Wilkie Road . F 9 

Veritas . F 4 

Victoria Dock (T. P:iicar) L 9 

Vi(!toria Street . . G 10 

View Place . . F 9 

Wanitah . . . . G m 
"Warders' Quarters (Cri- (I 7. 

minal Prison) .'(,18 

Warinyra . . . F G 

Waterloo. . G7 

Waterloo Street . G 10 

Water Works (Thomson 

Road), To . . . A 8 
Waterworks Reservoirs 

(Government Hill) . F 9 

Waverley . F (} 

Wayang Sutu Police 

Station . .Co 

West Road . . H 9 

Whuuipoa's Bakery H 8 

Whampoa's Garden - C 12 

White House . . . D 6 

Widmor Cottatce . . C 

WilkieRoad ^ . . F 

Wilkie Road, Upper . F 

Woodcot . . . F 

Woodneuk . E :t 

Woodside (Sirangoon) A 13 

Woodsid** . . G 6 

Woodsville . A 13 

Woolsthrope . . . F 9 

Zion Road . . G G 



7 
9 
9 
5 




Handbook to Singapore. 



CHAPTER I. 
Historical Introduction. 

m^^ INGAPOBE* is an island lying off the southern- 
most extremityt of the Asiatic continent, 
from which it is separated by a narrow strait, 
varying in width from three quarters of a mile to two 
miles. It is one of the many islands that stud the sea 
between the Malay Peninsula and Australia. It is sup- 
posed, from the shallowness of the surrounding seas, and 
the nature of their flora and fauna, that Singapore, with 
the very much larger islands of Sumatra, Borneo and Java, 
not to mention the smaller islets that may be reckoned by 
the hundred around them, once formed part of the conti- 
nent of Asia; while, for similar reasons, the Celebes, New 
Guinea, &c., were at one time united with Australia. 

The island of Singapore lies about eighty miles north 
of the equator. It is oblong in shape, its greatest length 
(from east to west) being twenty-eight, and its greatest 
breadth (from north to south) fourteen miles. It occupies 
an unusually favoured position, being sheltered by Sumatra 
on the west from the storms that sweep over the Indian 

• Singapore (Malay Singapxira) is said to mean " the City of 
Lions" (Sanscrit.) There are no lions in the island, but as the 
natives use the word Hartmau indiscriminately for "lion" and 
" tiger." it ia possible that the word Singha or Sinha may have been 
as loosely used. But the derivation is not unchallenged. 

t The southernmost point of the Malay Peninsula and of Asia is 
called Tanjong Bulus : it lies to the west ot Svii^^x^. 



2 Handbook to Singapore. 

Ocean, and on the east bj a spur of the Malay Peninsula 
from the typhoons that periodically disturb the China 
seas. Further, it is outside of the long volcanic belt 
that passes from Japan through the Philippines, and 
thence curves westward through Java and Sumatra.* Con- 
sequently the huiTicane and the earthquake are unknown 
in Singapore. 

The climate is moist; there is a heavy rain-fall 
extending over the whole year; and the temperature is 
mo<lerate for a place in the heart of the tropics. 

Singapore City is built on the south coast of the 
island, and faces the south-east. As the capital of the 
Straits Settlements, f it is the seat of the local government 
of the Colony. 

Before the Settlement of the British in the Island, 
Singapore cannot be said to have had any history. It has 
a place in Malay legends, J according to which it seems to 
have been a place of some note; it has the honour of 
mention in the great Portuguese Epic, the Lusiad of 
Camoens : but though a succession of Portuguese, Spanish, 
Dutch and British expeditions, both commercial and 
military, visited the Peninsula and the Archipelago from 
the beginning of the fifteenth to the beginning of the 
nineteenth century, the island of Singapore was passed by 
as if of little importance, until its occupation by the British 
in 1819. 

* The nearest point to Singapore of the volcanic belt is in the 
Karimon Islands, about 30 miles to the W. ; where there is a volcano 
which has long been quiescent. 

t The Straits Settlements form a Crown Colony of the British 
Empire, and consist of the Dindlngs, Province Wellesley and Malacca 
in the Malay Peninsula, the islanc^ of Penang (Prince of Wales' 
Island) and Singapore, with a few small islets in the Singapore Strait. 
Also, the Cocos or Keeling; Islands and Christmas Island (added in 
1886) in the Indian Ocean. 

X See the Sejarat Malayut an English translation of which is to 
be found in Lejrden'a Malaj Annals. 



Historical Introduction* 3 

The reference of Camoens to Singapore is in the tenth 
Canto of the Luaiad : — 

'' But on her land's-end throned see Cingapur 

Where the wide sea-road shiinks to.naiTOw way : 
Thence curves the coast to face the Cynosure* 
And lastly trends Aurora- ward its lay." 

{Sir B. F, Burt<yn'8 Translation.) 

" The island of Singapore is said to have been settled 
about 1160 A.D. by Malays from Sumatra, Java, or the 
neighbouring Johor Archipelago, The Settlement was 
named Sinhapura (Lion City), and according to old 
accounts, was large and prosperous. The following century 
saw the conversion of the Malay inhabitants of the Penin- 
sula to Mahommedanism ; and in 1262, the colonists of 
Singapore were driven by Javanese invaders to Malacca. 
At Malacca they remained till the Portuguese conquest in 
1511, when they turned south again to what is now the 
territory of Johor, and there founded a kingdom which 
included their old home of Singapore.*' — Lucas : Historical 
Oeography of the British Colonies. 

The British Empire owes the possession and the 
prosperity of Singapore to the foresight and energy of 
Sir Thomas Stamford Eaffles. There is not space here to 
give an account of his romantic and eventful career, only 
an outline can be given of his connection with the Settle- 
ment.t Baffles was sent to Penang as Assistant Secretary, 
by the East India Company, in 1805 ; in 1811, he was 
appointed Lieut.-Governor of Java, and in 1817, having 
received the honour of knighthood, he was despatched to 

* The Cambodian Peninsula. 

t It is unfortunate that Lady Raffles* biography of her husband 
is now out of print ; and that there is, so far as we know, no life of 
the founder of Singapore to be had of the booksellers. There should 
be a fair market for a new edition of Lady Baffles* book, or better 
perhaps^ for a shorter memoir. 



4 Handbook to Singapore, 

Bencoolen. a small British settlement on the south-west 
coast of Sumatra, as Lieut. -Governor. While acting in this 
capacity, he was impressed with the necessity that the 
British should have a port in the Malay Archipelago to 
protect their trade, which was increasing yearly, between 
the Far East (China and Japan) and Europe and India. 
Ships from Europe to the China seas, after rounding the 
Cape of Good Hope, crossed the Indian Ocean, and thence 
passed through the Strait of Sunda between Sumatra and 
Java ; while ships from India held their course down the 
Straits of Malacca, and through the Strait between Johor 
and the island of Singapore. Eaffles thought a position on 
the island of Bintaug, or somewhere in the neighbourhood, 
should be secured; and in 1818, he went to India to lay 
his plans before Lord Hastings, the Govenior-General. 
Hastings authorised him to select a spot suited to his pur- 
pose ; and as Bintang was occupied by the Dutch, who had 
established the port of Ehio there to command the Archi- 
pelago, he fixed on the island of Singapore, owing to the 
excellent anchorage there ; and concluded a treaty with 
the Maharajah of Johor, to whom the island belonged, trans- 
ferring part of it to the British Government. On February 
6th, 1819, the British flag was hoisted on the island ; the 
anniversary of which event is still observed as a public 
holiday in Singapore. "Our object" wrote Sir Stamford 
Eafiles at this time " is not territory but trade ; a great 
" commercial emporium and fulcrum, whence we may 
** extend our influence politically, as circumstances may 
** hereafter require. By taking immediate possession, we 
" put a negative to the Dutch claim of exclusion, and, at 
** the same time, revive the drooping confidence of our allies 
" and friends. One free port in these seas must eventually 
•* destroy the spell of Dutch monopoly.*' For the first 
fourjesLTs Singapore was a dependency of the Bencoolen 



Historical Introduction, 5 

Government ; in 1823 it was transferred to the East 
India Company. The price paid for the island was 
§60,000 down, and a life annuity to the Sultan of 324,000. 
The part of the island originally ceded to the British 
was a strip of land about five miles in length, stretching 
aloDg the sea-coast from Mount Palmer to Tanjong Katong. 
The opposition of the Dutch to the British Settlement on 
Singapore was so strong that the Home Grovemment at 
first declined to sanction it ; the Calcutta officials were 
hostile, and indeed the Settlement might have been broken 
up, had it not been for the dogged obstinacy of its founder, 
who persisted, on his own responsibility, in maintaining 
his position. In 1824, however, the Dutch and British 
Governments came to an agreement ; the Malay Archipelago 
was divided between the rival powers, and though Holland 
secured the lion's share of territory, England remained in 
possession of the most important positions on the eastern 
route, and especially, Singapore. Sir Stamford Raffles 
died in England in 1826, at the comparatively early age 
of forty-five. The annals of British influence in the East 
contain the name of no man who in so short a life-time 
accomplished so much. The following pages will furnish 
many instances of his wisdom, philanthropy, and adminis- 
trative genius. 

The population of Singapore, when Sir Stamford 
Il:iffles hoisted the British flag in the island, was under 
200. A Malay kampong or tillage at Teluk Blangah, 
where the P. & O. S. N. Co.*s wharf now is, seems to 
have been the only inhabited spot, for the island was 
wooded to the water's e«lge. At that time there were not 
fifty Chinamen in the place. It is hard to realize as we 
pass through the streets of the busy, populous city, that 
seventy years ago there was hardly one man to every 
two square miles on the island. Only a year after t\!L<^ 



6 Handbook to Singapore. 

landing of Sir Stamford Baffles the population had risen 
to 5,000. 

The first of the now many European trading 
firms was founded by an enterprising Scotchman — 
Mr. A. L. Johnston — who established himself in the 
Settlement a few months after its acquisition. The firm 
A. L. Johnston & Co. survived to the present year. 

From the beginning, Singapore has been a free port ; 
no duties of any kind are levied. The policy of Sir Stam- 
ford Baffles in this respect finds its justification in a 
comparison of the progress and general importance of the 
Dutch and French with the British Settlements in the Far 
East. There have been several attempts to levy customs, 
but the good sense of the mercantile community has 
hitherto prevented the adoption of so suicidal a policy.* 

The year 1820t saw the establishment of Gambling, 
Opium, and Spirit Farms, though somewhat against Sir 
Stamford Baffles' inclination, and in the same year another 
well-known European firm was founded by Mr. Alexander 
Guthrie, whose name survives in the present local style of 
the firm — Guthrie & Co. 

The progress of Singapore must have been very rapid 
in these early days, for we find the population estimated 
at 10,000 in 1822, From 200 to 10,000 in three years is a 
considerable advance. 

The next year (1823) was important in many respects. 
A Chinaman, Seah Eu Chin, is said to have started 



* There is a small charge on all vessels entering the port for the 
up-keep of the Light-houses in the Straits ; but payment is not grudg- 
ed, for navigation in dangerous waters is made safe by the numerous 
lights that stud the channel. 

t An interesting though not wholly reliable history of the acqui- 
sition of Singapore, and the first few years of its occupation by the 
British was written bv a Malay teacher named Abdullah. The 
Hikayat Abdullah (so the book is named) is ordinarily used as a read- 
j'ng^ book by atadenta ot Malay. See Chap. XIV. 



Historical Introduction. 7 

gambier and pepper planting on the island, an industry 
which had much to do with the early prosperity of the 
Settlement. 

The increasing population demanded some regular 
form for the administration of justice ; and in this year 
five European magistrates were appointed, of whom two 
had to sit with the Resident (then Colonel Farquhar) in 
court. The composition of juries in those days was either 
five Europeans, or four Europeans and three respectable 
natives. 

Sir Stamford Eaffles had in his mind, from the begin- 
ning of the Settlement, a scheme for native education, 
which took practical shape shortly before his departure 
in the foundation of the Eaffles' Institution. $17,500 were 
subscribed for this object, and grants of land to endow 
the school were given. 

One of the last acts of Sir Stamford Raffles was the 
abolition of slavery. He left Singapore about the middle 
of the year, to the great regret of all who had known his 
just and kindly rule. 

The island of Singapore was finally ceded to Britain, 
on August 3rd of this year, and a grant of 56 acres, in 
Kampong Glam was assigned to the Sultan. An attempt 
of the Dutch to occupy Johor came to nothing. 

In 1824 appeared the first issue of a local newspaper, 
The Singapore Chronicle, It was originally published 
fortnightly. This year witnessed the settlement of the 
rival claims of Dutch and English to various possessions 
in the Malay Archipelago by the Treaty of Holland. 
England ceded Sumatra to the Dutch, and all the islands 
south of the Singapore Strait ; while Holland relinquished 
her Indian possessions, gave up Malacca, withdrew her 
protest against the British occupation of Singapore, and 
ceased all political intercourse with the Peninsula. The 



8 Handbook to Singapore, 

treaty in later years was the cause of many diplomatic 
quarrels between England and Holland, without, however, 
producing any serious rupture. 

In 1826, Penang, Malacca, and Singapore were united 
under one Government, with Penang as capital. The popu- 
lation of Singapore at this time was computed at 
13,732. 

The first Criminal Sessions, and the first infliction of 
the death penalty, occurred in 1828, when a Kling* and a 
Chinaman were hanged for murder. At this 2>eriod, and 
for many years later, the neighbouring seas were infested 
by pirates. In their light prahus the Malay sea robbers 
swooped down upon passing ships, and then took refuge in 
the many creeks and inlets with which the Peninsula and 
the islands of the Archipelago abound. The Grovernment 
sentexpeditions against them, and private enterprise joined 
with the Government in waging a war of extermination 
against these highwaymen of the seas. Great credit is 
due to the Chinese merchants who about this time fitted 
out aud manned a few junks to meet, and to pursue to 
their haunts, the piratical prahus. Against these junks 
the prahus were powerless, and the pirates lost much of 
their prestige. 

Even now occasional piracies occur ; but they are few 
and far between. The age of steam and the rapid increase 
of traffic on the Eastern seas give few facilities for piracy 
and ensure swift vengeance on thc-pirates. 

Tigers, which were for a time the curse of Singapore, 
began to molest the inhabitants about the year 1831, by 
which time the population had increased to more than 
20,000. The interior of the island was then as little 

• The name Kling is given in Malay to immigrants from the 
Coromandel coast. It is derived from the old emigration port 
£sluigap»tam. 



Historical Introduction, 9 

known to the inhabitants as Central Afhca was to 
Europeans a few years ago. It was covered with dense 
jungle ; but, as the increase of population demanded a 
clearing of the jungle, these savage denizens of the forest 
began to give trouble. The tiger has been nearly exter- 
minated by this time ; but occasionally one is shot by 
local sportsmen, and from time to time, news comes from 
the plantations of a coolie being carried off by a man- 
eater, — an occurrence which probably happens oftener than 
is recorded. 

In 1832, Singapore, by reason of its rapid growth, 
was made the capital of the Straits Settlements, in 
place of Penan g, which had held that honour for six 
years. 

To meet pressing necessity a Court of Requests was 
established in the Settlement in 1834. 

In the same year the Bishop of Calcutta visited 
Singapore ; and as a result of this visit, it was resolved to 
found a church. Previous to this time there had been a 
missionary in the Settlement, who acted as Colonial 
Chaplain, and conducted Divine Service in the Mission 
Chapel. The Bishop consecrated the old cemetery on 
Fort Canning, which had been in use since 1822, and 
which continued in use till 1867. The proposed church 
was founded in 1835, and consecrated by the Bishop of 
Calcutta, on a second visit, in 1838, The Armenian 
Church of St. Gregory, which still stands in Hill Street, 
was consecrated in 1836. 

The rapid development of trade at the port led to the 
formation of a Chamber of Commerce in 1837 ; and in the 
following year, Mr. Waghorn's suggestion of the Overland 
Route between Europe and the East began to be seriously 
discussed. It is curious to read how the mercantile com- 
mimity in Singapore regarded this \iYo^o%^V^ Xai^'^'OckKt ^>S5qw 



lo Handbook to Singapore, 

another somewhat earlier, the use of steam-ships. Both of 
these, which have done so much for Singapore, were 
looked upon with suspicion and distrust, and were even 
regarded as foolish dreams. It is a strange commeutary 
also on human gratitude that Mr. Waghorn was allowed 
to die in abject poverty, though many were enriched by 
his suggestion. 

In 1840, the population was estimated at 39,681 ; at 
that time the chief European residences stood on Beach 
Boad and in the neighbourhood of Kampong Glam. No 
attempt seems to have been made to penetrate north- wards 
into the island, until in 1843 a road to Bukit Timah (Hill 
of Tin), six miles inland, was opened for traffic. Horses 
were first imported into Singapore in 1844. In 1845, the 
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company started 
a mail service to the Far East, the s.s, ** Lady Mary Wood " 
arriving at Singapore in August of that year. This marks 
a new era in the commercial prosperity of the Settlement. 
In the same year the Straits Times newspaper was 
founded, which still holds its j^lace as one of the chief 
journals in the Straits. 

The next year saw another event of commercial 
importance, — the establishment of the Oriental Bank in 
Singapore, which was a great convenience to local merchants 
and traders, there being hitherto no bank in the place. 
In 1847 two additions were made to the public buildings of 
the town — the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd (founded 
in 1843), and a G-aol at Sepoy Lines, which is now in- 
cluded in the area occupied by the present Criminal 
Prison. 

Singapore was visited in 1850 by Lord Dalhousie, the 
Governor-General of India, in coumiemoration of whose 
visit an obelisk was built, which now stands near the 
Cricket Pavilion on the Esplanade. The foundation of 



Historical Introduction, ii 

the Horsburgh Light-house* was laid on the rock of Pedra 
Branca y which lies in mid-channel between Cape Eomauia 
and the island of Bin tang. The light-house was named after 
the well-known hydrographer, James Horsburgh, f.b.s., 
by whose charts the dangers of the difficult navigation in 
the neighbouring seas were reduced to a minimum. The 
light was first put into use in October, 1851. 

Chinese Secret Societies began to give trouble about 
this time. The successes of the Roman Catholic Mission- 
ariesf amongst the Chinese in the country districts caused 
a fanatical persecution of the converts, at the instigation 
of the Secret Societies. Conversion to Christianity removed 
the proselyte from the authority of these Kong-seea to the 
protection of the priests ; and to prevent further conver- 
sions, the Chinese rose and plundered the proi)erty of their 
Christian countrymen, burning their houses and planta- 
tions, stealing their goods and money, adding acts of vio- 
lence and murder to their robberies. The insurgents came 
into collision with bodies of police and marines, and were 
ultimately reduced to order. Much of the stolen property 
was recovered and restored to the owners. 

Three years later (1854) the most serious riot that 
has ever occurred in the history of the Colony, broke out 
through a trifling bazaar dispute between a Hok-kien and 
a Macao. ^ The rapid increase of the Chinese population 

* Horsburgh Lighthouse, white flash light (one flash in ten 
seconds). Lat. 1* 19' 57" N. Long. 104* 24' 30" E. Dioptric lens 
of first order. It is 33 miles East of Singapore town, and its height 
fix)m high water to centre of light is 101 feet. The name of the rock 
on which it is built is a Portuguese translation of the Malay name 
Batu Puteh, i.e., the White Bock. 

t The Roman Catholic Missions were at this time, as they are 
still, the largest and most active in the Colony. In 1851, the Portu- 
guese Church of St. Joseph was founded, and placed under the juris- 
diction of the Bishop of Macao. The School of St. John, was started 
in the same year by the French Mission. 

{ That is a native of the province of Hok-kien, and a native ol 
Quangtung. 



12 Handbook to Singapore. 

was fraught with cousiderable danger to the peace of the 
community, chiefly because of tribal feuds between the 
different clans, which often led to violence and bloodshed. 
The bazaar-dispute became the excuse for a war between 
the rival factions, and the fighting lasted for more than a 
week. The Governor— Colonel W. J. Butterworth, to 
whom the Settlement owed much of its early prosperity — 
did not believe the danger so great as it turned out to be, 
and delayed taking decisive steps to check the riot, with 
the result that the riot, which might have been suppressed 
in a few hours, lasted without intermission for eight days ; 
and the suppression involved considerable loss of life on 
both sides. From the town the insurrection spread to the 
country districts; business was suspended; tlie offices 
shut and strongly guarded, the European residents were 
enrolled as special constables, Malays and Indians were 
armed, and for a few davs the island was in a state of war. 
Many aiTests were made ; about 250 prisoners were brought 
to trial, but only two were executed ; most of the rest being 
sentenced to long terms of imprisoiunent with hard labour, 
and some transported. 

The Verandah Riots* in 1888, show that the Chinese 
population, law-abiding as a rul»^, may at any moment be 
a serious trouble to the Settlement; they, too, were unneces- 
sarily prolonged by the indecision of those responsible for 
the peace of the town. 

Soon after the riots of 1 854, it was considered expe- 
dient to have a volunteer corps of European residents in 
Singapore ; and a rifle corps was accordingly formed. In 
the same year, navigation in the Straits was rendered safer 



* So-called because the Municipality of Singapore insisted that 
the verandahs in the streets of the Chinese quarters should be cleared 
of the goods and stalls with which they are usually crowded, to make 
ws^y for foot passengers. The riots lasted for three days. 



Historical Introduction, - 13 

by the founflation of the Raffles' Light-house on a small 
rock in the Straits of Malacca, some twelve miles west 
of the town. It was much needed, for the sea in that 
region is full of small islands and shoals. 

The foundation-stone of the present Town Hall was 
also laid in this year, though the building was not com- 
pleted till 1861. 

An unsuccessful attempt was made by the Indian 
Council to substitute the rupee for the Mexican dollar 
which had been the local cuiTency in the Archipelago 
long before there was a British Settlement. The proposed 
change was stoutly resisted by the Singapore merchants, 
and subsequently dropped. This attempt had much to 
do with a proposal mooted for the first time in the follow- 
ing year (1855) that the Straits Settlements should be 
transferred from the Indian G-overnment to a government 
which should be directly responsible to the Crown. A 
public meeting was held in Singapore, and resolutions to 
that effect were carried by acclamation. The reason of 
the proposal is declared in the words of one of the reso- 
lutions : — ** This meeting is forced into the painful convic- 
" tion that the Legislative Council of India in treating with 
** utter disregard the remonstrances of the inhabitants, have 
" shown that they are neither to be moved by any prospect 
" of doing good, nor restrained from doing evil to the Straits 
" Settlements ; and that it is, therefore, the painful duty of 
" this community to use every exertion, and to resort to 
"every means within their reach to obtain relief from the 
" mischievous measures already enacted, and to escape from 
"the infliction of others of the same nature, more compre- 
" hensive and still more hurtful." 

The Indian Council again attempted to over-ride pub- 
lic opinion in Singapore, by the imposition of port-dues, 
a policy which was thought disastrous by the local trader*^ 



14 Handbook to Singapore, 

it being regarded as a sine qxca non from the time of Sir 
Stamford Eaffles downwards, that Singapore should be 
a free port. A spirited protest addressed to the Imperial 
G-ovemment led to the abandonment of the proposal. 

The Straits Settlements were made a Crown Colony 
in 1867, and placed under the direct control of the Colonial 
Office ; though by their constitution, the Settlements have 
scarcely any more voice in the management of their affairs 
than they had iinder the Indian Council : for the official 
members — a majority in the Legislative Council — ^are 
bound to vote as the Secretary for the Colonies 'pro tern, 
directs. 

The old English Church in Singapore had became 
imfit for public worship by this time ; the congregation 
being compelled to use the Court-house for Divine Service.* 
The Indian Council voted the sum of Rupees 47,000 for the 
erection of a new building. The remainder of the cost 
was defrayed by public subscription, and the foundation 
of St. Andrew's Cathedral was laid in the following year 
(1856.) The building was opened for worship in 1862. 

In 1858, the Patent Slip and Dock Company, now 
known as the New Harbour Dock Co., was incorporated, 
and six years later, the Tanjong Pagar Dock Company, 
both of which have contributed largely to the commercial 
importance of the city. 

The Scotchmen in the town organised a Presbyterian 
congregation in the following year (1859), and worshipped 

* A curious illustration of the superstitions prevalent amongst 
the uneducated Chinese may he quoted in this connection It was 
widely believed that the English had deserted their Church through 
fear of the demons that haunted it ; and that it was the purpose of 
the Government to sacrifice a number of human heads to propitiate 
the demons. A panic seized the populace, men were afraid to go out 
after dark lest they should fall victims to the English sacrifice. It 
was lon^ before the (Government and the educated Chinese succeeded 
in aJlafwg the fears ot the people. 



Historical Introduction, 15 

for a time in the Old Residency Chapel in Brass Bassa 
Road, the use of which was granted them by the Govern- 
ment at the hours when it was not used by the Anglican 
congregation. The present Presbyterian Church was 
built in 1878. 

The transfer of the Colony from the Indian Govern- 
ment to the Crown was made in accordance with the report 
of Sir Hercules Robinson, then Governor of Ceylon, who 
was sent to the Straits to enquire into the state of affairs. 
The first Governor after the change was General Sir Harry 
Ord. It would appear from the local press of the time, 
that he carried matters with a high hand, and embroiled 
himself with the commercial community by the way in 
which he pressed forward his plans for administrative 
reform. The monument of his rule is Government House. 
In 1873, the system of administering justice in the Colony 
was revised ; The High Sheriff, grand and petit juries gave 
way to the present system. {See Chapter II.) In the 
same year General Sir Andrew Clarke arrived in Singapore 
as Governor. His name will be associated with the deve- 
lopment and prosperity of the Malay Peninsula, for he 
established what ultimately became the Residential system 
in the Malay States,* by means of which order and good 
government were introduced and the foundation of material 
prosperity laid. The result has justified Sir Andrew Clarke's 
policy. From 1874 to the present time the progress of 
the Native States has been remarkably rapid. The 
Residential system took definite shape after the Perak war 
which broke out in 1 875, owing to the murder of Mr. J. W. 
W. Birch, the first British Resident in that country, and 



* The Protected Native State.** are Perak, Selangor and Suugei 
Ujong on the West Coast of the Peninsula, Pahang on the East 
Coast, and Negri Serabilan (including Jelebu, Hemhau, Johol and 
Sri Menanti) to the East of Sungei Ujong and Selan^r. 



1 6 Handbook to Singapore. 

the disturbed condition of Sungei Ujong. The Gh)vemor 
at this time was Sir William Jervois, whose energetic 
administration bore good fruit in later days ; especially in 
the matter of Colonial defences. In 1877, occurred a great 
fire at Tanjong Pagar Dock, which lasted for 28 days, 
baffling all endeavours to extinguish it. On April 13, a 
Chinese coolie smoking in one of the attap-roofed coal sheds, 
accidentally set fire to the building. The coal soon 
kindled, and till May 12 the fire continued, consuming 
during that time about 50,000 tons of coal with the sheds 
in which it was stored. 

Sir William Jervois* was succeeded by Sir William 
Robinson, whose bad health compelled him to leave the 
Colony in 1879, and Sir F. A. Weld was appointed in his 
place in 1880. 

From 1879 to 1889, reclamation \^ork9 were carried 
out on an extensive scale, first from Colly er Quay towards 
Tanjong Pagar by running a sea-wall across what used to 
be called Teluk Ayer and filling up the tidal swamps; 
and thon by running another sea-wall from the north side 
of the Singapore river towards Beach Eoad, thereby re- 
claiming many acres of valuable land, and adding to the 
beauty of the Esplanade. During the same period some 
new public buildings were erected, and others added to 
and enlai^ed to the great improvement of the general 
appearance of the city. 

The present Governor, Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, 
assumed office in October, 1887, as successor to Sir F. A. 
Weld. During the first year of his administration Pahang 
was included among the Protected Native States, and a 
British Eesident despatched to that country. 



* Col. Anson, afterwards General Sir Arch. Anson, twice helH 
office as Acting Governor, in 1877 and 1879 to 1880. 



Historical Introduction^ i 7 

In February, 1888, the Verandah Eiots, already referred 
to (p. 12), broke out ; and in the same month the Singa- 
pore Volunteer Artillery Corps was enrolled. 

The Chinese Secret Societies* Ordinance was passed 
by the Legislative Council in 1889, and a jiroclamation 
ordering the disbanding of these troublesome organisa- 
tions by January 1, 1890, was posted throughout the town 
ill November. In the following year (March) T. R. H. 
the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, on their way home 
from India, visited Singapore. The Duke of Connaught 
inspected the fortifications of the town, and in commemo- 
ration of his visit the principal Fort on Pulau Blakang 
Mati was named after him. 

Improvements in the town and neighbourhood are 
being carried on rapidly ; but these are too numerous to 
be particularised here. 

* 

Between 1857 and 1860, the prosperity of Singapore 
sustained a severe check through the failure of the nutmeg 
crop. The trees were destroyed by a blight ; and the cul- 
tivation of the nutmeg is now practically at an end in the 
Island. Pepper, gambier, indigo, spices, liberian cofEee, 
tapioca, &c., withcocoanuts, pine-apples and other fruits are 
cultivated to some extent : the prosjierity of Singapore does 
not, however, depend on these, but on the fact that it is the 
great entrepot for Eastern commerce, and an important 
coaling station. Its position and harbour secure both its im- 
portance and its prosperity ; and few of the outposts of the 
British Empire can show such a record of growth and pro- 
gress as Singapore. It has suffered for the last few years, 
like the rest of the world, through the depression of tra«le, 
and the consequent diminution of its revenues ; but tKU., 
it is believed, is only temporary, T\ie AftN^Vy^xa^^^ <2>l'*0aft 



i8 



Handbook to Singapore* 



Native States, and tbo further opening up of the Malay 
Peninsula, which is supposed to contain great mineral 
wealth, will react favourably upon Singapore ; and it is not 
too much to hope that the future of the town will eclipse 
its past. 




CIIAPTEK II. 

The Government — The Garrison and Defences — 
Justice — The Municipality of Singapore — 

Police — Revenue. 

^W/^ROM 1819 to 1867, the Straits Settleinenfs 
were governed bv the Indian Council ; but in 
1867, they were erected into a Crown Colony, 
the Local Government being vested in a Governor,* an 
executive of eight Members appointed by the Crown, 
assisted by a body of seven unofficial Members of Council 
(two of whom are elected by the Chambers of Commerce 
in Penang and Singapore, and the rest nominated by the 
Governor) . 




1S28 
1833 
1837 
1843 
1855 
1861 



* Previous to 1867, the Local Governors in the Colony were : — 

Mr. Robert. FuUerton ... 1826 

„ S. Ibbetson 

„ K, Murchison ... 

„ Sam. G. Bonham 

Col. ^y. J. Biitterworth 

Mr. E. A. Blundell ... 

Col. Cavenugh 

Since 1867, the following have held the Office : — 

Gen. Sir Harry St. George Ord, G.c.M.G. ... 1867-73 

Col. Sir Andrew Clarke, k.e., k.c.m.o., c b. 1873-75 

Gen. Sir "NVm. F. D. Jervois, k.e., g.c.m.g. 1875-77 

Sir Wm. C. F. Robinson, k.c.m.o 1877-79 

t Gen. Sir Arch. E. H. Anson, R.A., k.c.m.g. .. 1879-80 

Sir Fred. A. Weld, g.c.m.g 1880-87 

t Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, G.c.M.G 1887- 

Those marked thus f held the office of Acting-Governor for short 
periods ; and to the list should be added the name ot Svt J . 'Sx^^srv.^ 
Dickson, k.c.m.o,, who acted as Governor m\^1 w.tv^\^^. 



20 Handbook to Singapore, 

The Executive consists of : — 

H. E.* the Geueral Officer Commanding the Troops; 

The Hon. the Colonial Secretary ; 

Do. Resident Councillor of Penang ; 

Do. Resident Councillor of Malacca ; 

Do. Attorney-General ; 

Do. Colonial Treasurer ; 

Do. Auditor-General ; 

Do. Colonial Engineer & Surveyor-General; 

These, with the seven unofficial Members of Council 
form the Legislative Body of the Colony. 

The system of governing a Colony from Downing 
Street secures a permanent official majority in cases where 
there is a difference of opinion between the Colonial Office 
and the residents on important questions. 

# # 

# 

The Colony contributes ^100,000 annually to the 
Imperial Exchequer • for garrison and defences, besides 
considerable sums spent locally for the accommodation of 
the troops. There are stationed in Singapore two Batter iesf 
of Artillery, an Infantry Battalion, a Company of Royal 
Engineers, a few Sikhs (China Gun Lascars), with repre- 
sentatives of the various Army Departments, — in all, about 
1,150 men. A small part of the Infantry Battalion is 
assigned to Penang. In addition to the regular troops 
there is a Corps of Volunteer Artillery-, about a hundred 
strong, recruited from the British residents in Singapore. 

The Infantry is quartered in the large barracks at 
Tanglin ; the Artillery is divided between Fort Canning, 
and the new baiTacks on Pulau Blakang Mati; the 

* The G. O. C. is styled *• His Excellency " in the Straits Settle- 
ments, as well as the CJovemor. 

t According to a re-arrangemeut in 1891, these Batteries are 
now called Companies. 



The Garrison and Defences, 21 

Engineers are stationed on Pulau Brani, and the Sikhs at 
Sepoy lines near Pearl's Hill, where are the Head Quarters* 
Office, and the offices of the Army Departments. The 
whole force is underthe command of H, E. Major-General 
Sir Charles Warren, r.e., o c.m.g., k.c b. 

The town and strait are defended by eight forts ; six 
of which, however, are clustered round the wharves and 
coal depots. 

In the heart of tbe town, at a height of 156 feet, 
stands Fort Canning, formerly called Government Hill,* 
which is now used as a barracks for the Garrison Artillerv 
and as the general signal station for the town. From this 
fort all salutes are fired ; time-guns at 5 a.m., 12 uoon,t 
and 9 p.m., and fire alarms. Shipping signals are given 
on the flag-staff. Fort Canning is, however, of no military 
value as a defence. Between China Town and Tanjong 
Pagar Dock is Fort Palmer, on a crag, about 120 feet high, 
overhanging the sea. Four miles to the east of the town 
is Fort Tanjong Katong, and about four miles to the west, 
commanding the entrauce to New Harbour is Fort Passir 
Panjang. The other forts stand on the two islands, Pulau 
Brani and Pulau Blakang Mati. On the former is Fort 
Teregeh, at the S. E extremity : on the latter, which is 
much the larger island, there are three forts — Fort Sera- 
pong, on the highest point (301 ft.) towards the N, E„ 
Fort Connaught (originally Fort Blakang Mati East), 
named after H. E. H. the Duke of Connaught, who visited 
it in 1890 ; and Fort Siloso on the N. W. extremity of the 
island, opposite Fort Passir Panjang. J Most of the forts 



* So called because Sir Stamford KaMesand other Governors till 
1867, lived there duriiii< their administration. 

t 1 p.m. on Sundays. 

X The remains of the origiu.il tort on the i:>land — Fort Fuller- 
ton— are to be seen behind the Post Office, near the new Volunteer 
Drill Hall. 



22 Handbook to Singapore* 

are marked by clumps of the Casuariua-tree. Some heavy 
pieces of ordnance have been mouuted in the different 
forts, and more are expected. 

A gun- boat or cruiser from the China Station lies in 
the Roads ; and the harbour is well-protected by sub- 
marine mines and tori^edoes. The mam objection of the 
Calcutta authorities in 1819. to Sir Stamford Raffles' 
settlement in Singapore, was that the harbour could not 
be proi>erly defended. The objectii)n has been removed 
in recent years to a very considerable extent. 

# 

The law of the Colony is made or modified by Ordi- 
nances of the Legislative Council, subject to the approval 
of the Crown. Criminal cases are tried under the Indian 
Penal Code (slightly modified to meet local conditions); 
and the Civil Procedure Code of the Colony is based on 
the English Judicature Acts. 

The Courts of Law in the Settlements are of six 
kinds: — The Supreme Court, Courts of Requests (for 
sums not exceeding $50) ; Courts of two Magistrates ; 
Coroners' Courts, Magistrates' Courts and Justices of the 
Peace. The Supreme Court, consisting of a Chief Justice 
and three Puisne Judges, sits weekly in Singapore; holds 
assizes every two months ; and w^hen required acts as a 
Court of Appeal and a Vice-Admiralty Court. 

# 

The Miuiicipal Commission of Singapore is partly an 
elective body, some Commissioners being elected by the 
rate-payers in the different wards, and others, with the 
President, appointed by H. E. the Governor. The water- 
supply of the town is under its control ; also, the up-keep 
of roads and bridges within Municipal limits. The Muni- 



Police — Mu n icipality — Revenue. 2 3 

cipality has power to levy rates and taxes ; and in addition 
to the water rate, its revenue comes from assessments on 
house property, a horse and carriage tax, registration of 
buUock-carts and all vehicles plying for liire, dog licenses, 
and licenses for offensive and daDgerous trades. In 1890, 
the total revenue was 8t)o5,082, and the total expenditure, 
8703,748. 

The Municipal area is about 28 square miles; it 
extends 4.j miles E. W. and N. of the Town Hall. It is 
divided into five wards : — 

1. Tanjong Pagar. 

2. Central Ward (commencing at Rallies School, 

and including roughly that part of the town 
between Orchard Koad and Grange Koad). 

3. Tiinglin (between Orchard Road and Bukit Timah) 

4. Rochore, at the N. E. end of the town. 
o. Kallang, beyond Rochore. 

# # 
* 

The Police Force of the Straits Settlements is nude 
up of a small Euro[>ean contingent with over 2,000 Asia- 
tics, consisting of Sikhs, Malays, Kliugsand Chinese. At 
the head is the Inspector-G-eneral (R. W. Maxwell, Esq.), 
under whom are 3 Superintendents, 3 Assistant Super- 
intendents, 3 Chief Inspectors, and 21 Inspectors (all 
Europeans). Of the Asiatics, the Sikhs are generally con- 
sidered the most efficient and reliable Police. In the Town 
and Island of Singapore there are 36 Police Stations ; the 
Central Station being in South Bridge Road opposite the 
Magistrates* Courts. 

# # 
# 

The revenue of the Straits Settlements is mainly 
derived from Opium, Spirit, and Pawnbrokin^ FvLtm&x 



H 



Handbook to Singapore, 



For 1890, the sum derived from these sources was nearly 
three millions of dollars ($2,852,422.37). The total 
revenue for 1890 was $4,368,237.1 7 from all sources, in- 
cluding Land Eevenue, Stamp Duties, Fines, Forfeitures 
and Fees of Coui't, <fcc., &c. 




CHAPTEK III. 
General Description of the Town and Environs. 

^^^^'^PPROACHING- Singapore from the west, 
wt^f^^ travellers find themselves in a channel 
,:^^^i^ry^A^^^r^ thickly studded with islands, as thov 
reach the southern end of the Straits of Malacca. 
On the right is to be seen the mountainous group of 
islands called the Karimons ; and further on amongst a 
number of small islands stands the Raffles Light-house* 
which guides ships to the old channel of entrance to 
Singapore Harbour. 

Sailiiii; shii)s and occnsionally steamers* eoiniug southward 
throuj^li the Straits of Malacca make use of the old channel. They 
steer from the Pulau Pisanjir Liifht to the Raffles Liifht-house, and 
then pass by 8t. John's Island to the harbour. The P. & O. S. 
N. Co.'s steamers and others pass between the Sultan Shoal, marked 
by beacons, on the left, and the Ajax Shoal, marked by a lii^ht ship 
ou the right, and thence steam into the New Harbour. It is ex- 
pected that a light-house will shortly be erected on the Ajax Shoal. 

On the left, there stretches away to the horizon in a 
series of undulating hills, the Island of Singapore, with 
some of the mountains of Johor visible in the distance, 
notably the conical peak called Giuiong Pulai. 

The scenery has a quiet beauty that impresses every 
spectator ; and as the water in the channel is generally 
smooth, all are able to eujoy the prospect. Every now 
and then the ship startles a gar-fish that skips 



* Raffles Light-house, finished in 1855, stands on Coney Island, 
12 miles west of Singsipore Town, in Lut. l*^ 0' 50" N., and Long 
103*^ 44' 50' E., white light, iixed. Lens, Dioptric of third order. 
Height of light-house from high w\xlex to <i^u\.x^ ol\fe\i&A^ V^» 



26 Handbook to Singapore. 

nimbly ovei* the surface of the water to a safe distance. 
Occasionally a golden-coloured watersnake may be seen 
hurrying away from the bows. In tlie early morning, or 
afternoon, the sea-eagle may be descried at a great height 
overhead, watching for its finny prey in the blue waters 
below. At low-tide vast shoals of coral can be seen in the 
neighbourhood of the islands in the Strait. If the sun is 
shining, a curious optical illusion strikes the spectator, — 
the distant islands seem to be suspended in the air a few 
feet above the sea. This is probably due to the effect of 
the sun's rays on the shallow water covering the coral reefs 
that surround tbe islands. 

One can see from the steamer, as it passes the islands, 
small Malay fishing kampongs (I.e. villages) with clumps 
of cocoanut palms overhanging them, and fishing stakes 
running out into the sea. The method of fishing is 
ingenious. A long line of stakes, on which a net is hung, 
is run out to sea for a few hundred yards, ending in a 
cleverly-arranged cul-de-sac. The fish, stopped in their 
progress by the long line of stakes, swim along side of 
it till they find themselves entrapjied in the cul-de-sac, 
from which they are transferred at low tide into the fisher- 
man's boat. 

As the steamer approaches the harbour, the island 
seen in front is Pulau Blakang Mati on which the new 
Artillery barracks are plainly visible at a considerable 
distance. The entiTince to the New Harbour lies between 
Blakang Mati and the Island of Singapore,* and here 
the steamer passes under the guns of Fort Siloso on the 
right, and Fort Passir Panjang on the left. Both forts 



* The "Western Harl)oiir hmit is maiked hy a white obelisk on 
the site of a rock called Ijot's wife, which was blown up some time 
ago. The obelisk is at Berlayer Point, and behind it a gallery is 
bejug- cut IB the rock to receive some quick-firing guns. 



General Description of Town and Environs, 27 

are marked by clumps of the Casuarina tree. Immediately 
after passing these, New HarLour Dock comes into sight, 
behind which rises Mount Faber, 011 which there is a 
Signal Station. The P. *fc O, S. N. Co.'s wharf is thou 
reached, opposite to which is the island of Pulau Brani, 
where a company of Koyal Engineers is stationed, and 
where there are also the large tin-smelting works of the 
Straits Trading Co. 

The mail steamers uf the Norddeutscher Lloyd Co. 
and of the Companie ties Messageries Maritimcs berth at 
the Borneo wharf, and other steamers from the west at 
the Tanjong Pagar wharf ; l)oth of which are nearer to 
town than the P. *fc O. wharf. 

Approaching Singa])ore from the east, ships, after 
crossing the Gulf of Siam, sight the Horsburgh Light- 
house,* which stands between Cape Komania and the 
island of Bintang. (The former disputes with Tanjong 
Bulus tlie honour of being the southernmost point of 
Asia : the latter is a Dutch possession, on which stands the 
sea- port of Khio, — or Riouw, according to the Dutch 
spelling — which was intended to be the chief eutrepnt for 
trade in the ArchipeLigo. The opening of the Overland 
Route and, later, of the Suez Canal, and the consequent 
discontinuance of the Sunda Strait as the passage from 
Europe to China and Japan has prevented the hopes of 
its founders from being fulfilled). 

After rounding Cape Romania the long, low-lying 
Island of Singapore comes into view, behind which are to 
be seen the distant mountains of the Peninsula, while the 
channel in front is studded with many small islands. As 

* See note ou p, 11. 



28 Handbook to Singapore, 

the ship passes Tanjong Katong,* a long beach above 
which small country bungalows peep through groves of 
cocoanut palms, the city aud roadstead of Singapore 
appear, the latter crowded with ships of all nations. 
Bukit Timah, the highest point in the island. Government 
Hill, Fort Canning, Mount Faber, and the Cathedral 
spire are the most prominent landmarks ; and the general 
effect of the landscape is very pleasing. Steamers making 
for the wharves pass through the Roads, aud give passen- 
gers the opportunity of gaining a fair idea of the situation 
and general apjiearance of this picturesque eastern town. 

^ # 

The main business part of the town is compactly built 
on a level stretch of land between Fort Canning and the 
sea-shore. Part of the plain on which the town is built 
has been reclaimed from tidal swamps, and part was ori- 
ginally covered by small hills which have been cut away, 
and their sites are now occu|)ied by streets and squares. 
Collyer Quay, facing the sea, Battery Road, Commercial 
Square, or Raffles Place, and the streets leading into it, form 
the nucleus of the business activity of the town. In this 
quarter are all the Banks, the Exchange, the offices of the 
principal European and other merchants and lawyers, the 
Post Office and the Shipping Office. On the other side 
of the Singapore River, (the north side,) stand the 
Government offices, the Supreme Court, the Town Hall, 



* The word Taujong is literally "land's eud ;" it is a contraction 
of Tanah bujonj^, and means a promontory or spit of land. Katon.i,' 
is " turtle," so that Tanjong Katouj? means " the Turtle Promontory.'* 
Its long f?andy beach and bathing facilities make it a favourite water- 
ing place for the residents. A bar of sand at some distance from tlie 
shore protects bathers from the sharks that abound in these waters. 
A white obelisk about the middle of the beach marks the Eastern 
Harbour limit. 



General Description of Town and Environs. 29 

the chief Hotels, the English Cathedral, and for some 
distance along the sea-shore, there stretches a well laid out 
Esplanade and Recreation ground, a favourite afternoon 
resort of residents. 

Between Tanjong Pagar and the commercial centre of 
the town lies the Chinese quarter,* in which are the 
Central Police Station, the Magistrates' Courts, and the 
Chinese Protectorate. (See Chapter V.) 

Between the Esplanade and the Rochore River is the 
districi: of Kampong Glam, inhabited mainly by Malays 
and Arabs. The chief European dwellings are built on 
the north of the town, and extend for several miles into 
the countrv. Here there are a number of small wooded 
hills, on each of which there are seveml houses, which 
are, by reason of their position, airy and well-drained, and 
therefore healthy and comfortable. On one of the highest 
of these hills surrounded by tastefully laid-out grounds, 
stands Government House, the official residence of the 
Governor of the Straits Settlements. The roads in this 
district are well kept ; they are skirted by lofty trees, 
which, often meeting overhead, throw a cool and grateful 
shade below. 

The town of Singapore has three main arteries or 
thoroughfares, running parallel to the shore. Robinson 
Quay, Colly er Quay, the Esplanade and Beach Road, skirt 
the shore, crossing the Singapore River by the Cavenagh 
Bridge. Farther inland, and parallel to it is the long street 
known on one side of the Singapore River as South Bridge 
Road, and on the other as North Bridge Road, the two 
Ijeing connected by the Elgin Bridge. The third is that 



* The Chinese population is not confined to this quarter, but is 
scattered over the whole town. The largest body of Chinese, however, 
is settled there. Dep6t9 for the accommodation of the endless stream 
of Chinese immigrants are licensed by Government in thU dUtti^t. 



30 Handbook to Singapore, 

called at different points of its course New Bridge Eoad, 
Hill Street and Victoria Street, and is carried over the 
Singapore Eiver by Coleman Bridge, Each thoroughfare 
is considerably over two miles in length ; and the three 
form, as it were, the framework upon which the town is 
built. At right angles to these thoroughfares, four main 
roads run inland ; the first of which, Havel ock Road — to 
begin from the south — skirts the south bank of the 
Singapore River for the first mile or so of its course, and 
thence curves round in the direction of Bukit Chermin and 
Passir Panjang.* The second, River Valley Road, winds 
along the north side of the river to Mount Echo and Tanglin ; 
European residences are closely built on both sides of it 
for a considerable distance. The third, which starting from 
the Esplanade is called Stamford Road, and from Foi-t 
Canning onwards is called Orchard Road, is • the chief 
thoroughfare to the European dwelling houses in the 
Tanglin district. This is one of the most beautiful roads 
to be seen anywhere; in one part of its course it is straight 
for nearly a mile ; and one seeing it for the first time 
cannot fail to be delighted with the long vista of high 
trees with their variegated foliage and coo] shade. If the 
Pigeon-orchid, which grows on most of the trees, happens 
to be in flower, the pleasure is enhanced. 

The fourth road, fourteen miles in length, crosses the 
island to Kranji, whence the passage to the Sultanate 
of Johor is made by boats. It passes the foot of the 
highest hill in the island — Bukit Timali (Hill of Tin,) 
and is therefore called the Bukit Timali Road. Two other 
roads cross the island — Thomson Road, branching off the 
Bukit Timah Road about 2 miles from town, and reaching 
the Johor Strait at Selitar, and Gaylang Road which crosses 
the Eastern part of the island to Changi. 

* It is called Alexandra Road after the curve. 



General Description of Town and Environs. 31 

For quiet but effective l)eaiity these roads are often 
compared to the Devonshire lanes. Both Orchard Road 
and Eiver Valley Road, not to mention others, present the 
appeamnce of a well- shaded avenue to an English mansion. 
The comparison has often been made, but the best that 
northern latitudes can produce cannot be compared with 
the richness and variety of the tropical foliage, and the 
bright colours of the flowermg trees. There are many 
beautiful walks and drives in the environs of Singapore, 
for a description of which see Chapter IV. 

The streets of the town are crowded and busy at all 
hours of the day. and in the native quarters at nearly all 
hours of the night as well. Carriages, steam-cars, hack- 
gharries, bullock-carts, and jinrickshas pass and re-pass in 
a continual stream ; native vendors of various kinds of 
foods, fruits, and drinks, take up their position by the 
roadsides, or, wandering up and down the streets proclaim 
the excellence of their wares; carriers and messengers come 
and go : all is bustle and activity. 

In half-an-hour's walk, a stranger may hear the .accents 
of almost everv lanixuaoje and see the features and costume 
of nearly every race in the world. Amongst the crowds that 
pass him, he may see, besides Europeans of every nation, 
Chinese, Malays, Hindus, Madrassees, Sikhs, Japanese, 
Burmese, Siamese, Singhalese. 'J'amils, Ambs, Jews, 
Parsees, Negroes, &c., &c. 

At anchor in the Roads, there may be seen any day 
the ships of all nations, from the Chinese junk to the 
man-of-war, and gliding in and out among these, or 
waiting for goods or passengers by the shore, a large flotilla 
of tongkangs and sampans, manned by Malay, Kling and 
Chinese boatmen. 

The native bazaars both in the centre and on the 
outskirts of the town always present t^ Ivs^Vj ^^i.^XL^&^'OasiXi^'^ 



o 



2 Handbook to Singapore. 



their busiest hours are between six and seven in the mor- 
niucr, especially in the suburbs. The visitor to Singapore 
will do well to stroll round some of the native quarters ; 
and if he be a curio-hunter, he is recommended to inspect 
the native shops in High Street, which is close to the 
Hotel de TEurope, and in streets in the neighbourhood, if 
he bears in mind that the price asked for an article there 
is usually treble the amount that will ultimately be 
accepted.* 






Singapore Island is drained by a number of auiall 
streams, dignified by the name of rivers. 

Flowing into the Singapore Strait are : — 

1. Jurong River, 10 miles west of the town ; 

2. Singapore River, passing through the centre of 

the town ; 

3. The Rochore, Kallaug and Gaylang Rivers, 

which meet in a large basin at. Tanjong Rhu, 
nearly 2 miles to the east of the town. 
Flowing into the Johor Strait are : — 

4. The Kranji; 

5. The Selitar ; 

6. The Ponggol ; 

7. The Serangoon ; 

8. The Tampinis ; 

9. The Changi. 

The Kranji and Selitar rivers drain the largest extent 
of country ; but the Singapore and Rochore Rivers, with 

* The unwary i)assenger is considered fair fjnme for the native 
dealer. The present writer was in a shop one day, pricinjf an article 
for which the seller demanded $4. Thinkin;:,' the price too hij^h, he 
tried to beat it down and said that he was not a passenger but a 
resident. ** O no, sah : I know, sah" said the native. " If you had 
been passenger, las Ar>E/^e«n do //a^, ioh** And he probably would 
have got it. 



General Description of Town and Environs. 33 

large tidal basins, are navij^able for some distance by 
native craft of considerable size. Crocodiles used to 
abound in these rivers, and there are still many, especially 
in the streams on the north of the island; but they are 
very sliv, and are seldom seen. 







0"?^l/-^(-^i%/i^\^ 



N 



CHAPTER lY. 
Favourite Walks and Drives. 

?^^HE walks and drives about Singa])ore have a 
charm peculiarly their own. To those who 
in a few short weeks have passed through 
many varieties of scenery — in particular the sandy wastes 
that skirt the Suez Canal and Red Sea, and the ** barren 
rocks of Aden" — the soft beauty of the Singapore landscapes 
is at once refreshing and delightful : and, as there are many 
visitors who have only a few liours at their disposal in 
passing through, this chapter is intended to help them to 
make the best use of their time. When the steamer stays 
in port for four or five hours, the following drives are 
recommended, as shewing not only the general appearance 
of the town but also the beauties of the country roads.* 

1. — From the Wharves to Singapore Town and thence to 

the Botanical Gardens, y'vX the Esplanade 

and Orchard Road. 

Passengers land at the P. & O. S. N, Co.'s Wharf 
(Teluk Blangaht), at the Borneo Wharf, or at the Tanjoug 
Pagar Wharf J, and to get to the Gardens must drive 

• The Malay names of the places are added in brackets, for the 
syces do not understand the English names. The word Perffi 
(pronounce ** piggy'*) means "drive to": e.g. ''^ perfji Singapura** 
or *' pergi ka Singapura** means " drive to Singapore." 

Passengers staying a few days in the island will find the 
** Malay Pronouncing Hand-Book ** (published at the Singapore and 
Straits'Printing Office) a ver>' useful vade mecum. It may be had 
from booksellers in Singapore and Penang ; its price is $1.50. 

t Pronounce Tulloh Blang-ah. 

X The syces understand Borneo Wharf and Tanjong Pagar Wharf 



Favourite Walks and Drives, 35 

through the town. There is more than one road to town 
from all the wharves, but the best is that skirting the 
shore, because of the cool breeze from the sea, and also 
because the road leads straight to the business part of the 
town. The syce must be instructed, if this route be 
chosen, to Jalan tepi laul* (i.e., to drive by the sea- 
shore). It is a well-kept road, laid with tramway lines, 
and the sea is kept in sight most of the way, a distance of 
three miles, from the P. & O. Wharf. It skirts a number 
of small latente hills which are being fast quarried away 
for road-making purposes. Then Fort Palmer is passed 
on the right and the Chinese Quarter on the left ; and the 
business part of the town is entered when Robinson Quay is 
reached. CoUyerQuay is then entered, — an imposing terrace 
of offices with the convexity of the curve fronting the sea. 
At one end is the Teluk Ayer Fish Market, and at the other 
Johnston's Pier, whence communication is made by boat 
with the shipping in the Roadstead. The office of the 
Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation is almost 
opposite the Pier. From CoUyer Quay the passenger 
enters a triangular space at the junction of CoUyer Quay, 
Battery Road and Flint Street, hav'n^ on his right the 
Singapore Club and the Exchange (in one building), 
the General Post Office and the Shipping Office, behind 
which is the new Volunteer Drill Hall, and the remains 
of Fort Fullerton, the oldest of the town's defences. In 
the centre of this space is a large fountain presented to 
the Municipality by the late Mr. Tan Kim Seng, a wealthy 
Chinese citizen. To the left opens Battery Road leading 
to Raffles Square, in which are the offices of the other 
Banks — the New Oriental, the Chartered Bank of India, 
Australia and China, and the Chartered Mercantile Bank 

• Pronounce Jahlan tippy loivt. 



36 Handbook to Singapore, 

of India, London and China. (The Telegraph Office 
is in Prince Street, which runs from Baffles Square to 
Collyer Quay). 

Passing on, the visitor crosses the Singapore River by 
the Cavenagh Bridge to the Esplanade. To the left are 
the Government offices and Legislative Chamber, the 
Town Hall and Municipal offices (distinguished by a 
monument in front on the top of which is a bronze 
elephant, erected to commemorate the first visit of the 
King of Siam to Singapore), and the Supreme Court. 
Beyond these lies the Esplanade (Padang Besar*) a large 
plain, encircled by a well-laid-out carriage drive. The 
Singapore Cricket Club, and the Singapore Recreation 
Club divide the plain between them for the purpose of 
cricket, tennis, bowls, and other athletic sports, and in the 
centre stands a fine statue of Sir T. Stamford Raffles, 
erected in 1887. A large part of the Esplanade occupies 
ground recently reclaimed from the sea ; and it is now a 
favourite afternoon resort of the residents. On the land- 
ward side are the Hotel de T Europe (Punch aus Besar)f 
and St. Andrew's Cathedral (Greja BesarX). Beach 
Road goes eastward by the sea shore to the district of 
Kampong Glam, ending at the Rochore River, but the road 
now to be taken (Stamford Road) turns inland, and runs 
straight towards Fort Canning (Bukit Bandera^), passing 
on the right, first the Raffles Institution, a school for boys, 
founded by Sir Stamford Raffles in the year 1823, and 
then the Church of the Good Shepherd (French Catholic) ; 
after which it turns northwards, and from this point is 
called Orchard Road. The Raffles Library and Museum 



* Pronounce Padang BUsar (i.e. The Large Plain), 
t Pronounce Punch-house BUanr (i.e. The Great Hotel). 
X Pronounce Graifja Bissar (i.e. The Large Church). ^ 
J Pronounce Bookit Bandayra (\\t. The Hill of the Plags). 



Favourite Walks and Drives. 37 

{Tem^ai Kitah*) on the left, is first passed. It is well 
worth a visit, for the Library is one of the larj^^est and most 
comprehensive iu the East, and the Museum, which is 
being daily enriched by zoological, mineralogical, ethno- 
logical and archaeological collections from the Peninsula 
and the Archipelago, promises to be, in time, one of the 
finest exhibitions of its kind in Asia. The Reading Boom 
and Museum are open to the public daily (Sundays excepted) 
from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. There is a valuable collection of 
Oriental literature, called the Logan Library, access to 
which may be obtained by special permission from the 
Secretary. 

Almost opposite the Museiun is the Ladies Lawn 
Tennis Club, (Padany K€chil)f a prettily laid out garden 
where tennis is played from 4.30 p.m. till dusk. On the 
other side of the road is the Presbyterian Church (Greja 
Kechil) built in 1878; and a little farther on the same 
side, is a small Hindoo temple, used chiefly by the Dhobies 
(or washermen) who live in the neighbourhood, and who 
may be seen at work at any time of the day. Two himdred 
yards further on the Jewish Cemetery is to be seen, on the 
left, opposite Lambert Bros.* Carriage Works and Livery 
Stables. The gate of the approach to Government House 
is then passed on the right, beyond which is Koek*s 
Bazaar, a row of native shops on both sides of the road. 
Between the hours of six and eight in the morning, this 
market presents a lively scene ; hundreds of Chinese cooks 
and Asiatic women of many various nationalities come at 
that hour to make their purchases for the day. 

Beyond the Bazaar, Orchard Eoad becomes a straight, 
well-shaded drive, leading to the European residences iu the 



* Froiiouuce T^mpat Kilab (i.e. The Place of Books), 
t Pronounce Padang Kitchy (i.e. The Little Pl&iV\i\. 



38 Handbook to Singapore, 

Tanglin district. On the left, almost hidden by the 
trees is a very large Chinese Burial Ground used by the 
Tec Chews, i.e., Chinese hailing from Swatow; the visitor 
may perhaps overtake a funeral on its way thither, with 
the customary accompaniments of gongs to startle, and 
the scattering of gold and silver paper to appease, the 
demons which are supposed to be on the watch for the 
spirit of the deceased. Orchard Road ends at the entrance 
to the Military Barracks in Tanglin : and turning to the 
right into Napier Road, the visitor soon finds himself at 
the gate of the Botanical Gardens (Kehun Bungah)* 

These gardens were opened in the year 1873; and 
they are kept up by the Straits Government. Many varities of 
tropical trees and flowers are to be seen there. In one of the 
ponds, a magnificent specimen of the Victm'ia Begia spreads 
its broad leaves over the water. There is a large variety of 
orchids and tropical f ei*n8 in the orchid houses ; and close to 
these is the nucleus of a zoological collection of birds, snakes, 
and a few wild animals. 

On a hill to the north-west of the Gardens stands 
Tyersall, the Siugapore residence of His Highness the 
Sultan of Johor. 

2. — From the Wharves to the Impounding Reservoir via 

Singapore Town, 

The Reservoir (Kolam Ayerf) from which is drawn 
the water-supply of the town, is rather more than 
four miles to the north of the city. The route from 
the Wharves is the same as described above as far as 
the Ladies' Lawn Tennis Club, leaving which on the left, 
the passenger drives along Selegie Road, where there is a 
dense population of Eurasians and natives, till the Rochore 

* Pronounce K'boon Boong^ah (i.e. Garden of FlowcrsJ. 
fFronouace Kolam Ire (i,e. Pond of Water^. 



Favourite Walks and Drives, 39 

River is reached, along the left bank of which for some 
distance runs the Bukit Timah Eoad. Turning into this 
road the visitor passes along the foot of Sophia Hill, and 
Government Hill (on the left) between the summits of 
which is the High Level Reservoir. The Pumping Station 
and the Filter Beds lie about 60 feet below. On the right 
tbo road passes, at some distance, the Race Course, where 
half-yearly Race Meetings and occasional Gymkhanas are 
held. It is used also as a Golf Course by the Singapore 
Golf Club, which was founded in 1891. A hundred yards 
further on, the Christian Cemetery (Kuhoran Orang 
Puteh*) is passed. The burying space is divided between 
the Roman Catholics and the Protestants, and two Mor- 
tuary Chapels stand at either side of the entrance. 
Thompson Road tuims to the right at the farther end of 
the Cemetery, and after a drive of nearly two miles along 
this well-shaded road, the visitor arrives at the Impound- 
ing Reservoir. It is a small lake, about a mile- and-a- half 
long in the heart of the jungle. The end from which the 
water is drawn out is prettily terraced and laid out as a 
garden, and there is a jungle path, several miles in length 
circling the reservoir. A small bungalowf the property 
of the Municipality, stands on rising ground on the 
South side. The reservoir is one of the prettiest spots 
on the island ; at sunset or by moonlight it is perhaps 
seen at its best. Tiger-tracks are occasionally to 
be seen in the neighbourhood, this being the nearest 



* Prououuoe Kooboran Orang Pooty (t.«., The Burial place of 
the Whitemen.) 

t The bungalow may be rented for a few days or weeks from the 
Municipality. Occupiers have the privilege of boating on the lake. 
Application must be made to the Municipal Secretary. Preference is 
given to Municipal servants, and after them to private individuals in 
the order of application. 



40 Handbook to Singapore. 

place to the towu where tigers have been traced or killed 
in recent years. 

B, — If the passenger has a very limited time at his 
disposal, he may get a fair impression of the general 
appearance of the town and its surroundings, and also of 
the islands in the Strait, by ascending to the signal 
station on Moimt Faber, which rises immediately behind 
the P. & O. Co.'s Wharf. The ascent has to be made on 
foot, but the view obtained amply compensates the labour 
expended. 

4. — From ihe Wharves to Kranji via Singapore Town, and 

thence to Johore Bahru. 

If, however, the traveller has ten or twelve 
hours to spare, be cannot do better than cross the 
island to Kranji, and thence pass over to the kingdom 
"of Johore on the mainland ; for he passes through 
the town of Singapore en route, aud also has the 
opportunity of seeing the general appearance of the 
coifee, gambier and pepper plantations, and of the jungle 
in the interior of the island. A carriage and horses for 
this excursion can be hired from one of the Livery Stables 
(see Chap. IX.). The route to be followed is that 
described on p. 39 as far as the Christian Cemetery ; 
whence instead of turning into Thompson Road, the 
traveller keeps his course along the Bukit Timah Road, 
on which, seven miles^ out, he passes the hill that gives 
its name to the road, — Bukit Timah or **Hill of Tin,** the 
highest point in the island. (Height 519 ft.) 

The ascent of this hill is made by carriage or on foot. 
There is a Government Bungalow on the summit, to which 
residents go occasionally for a change of air. There arc two 
Mission Chapels in the Bukit Timah district, for Chinese 
converta. One belongs to the English Presbyterian Mission ; 



Favourite Walks and Drives. 41 

the other, the Chapel of St. Joseph, to the French Catholic 
Mission. (Missiotis Etrangercs,) 

From Bukit Tiiuah to Kranji the road winds through 
plantations and jungle for seven miles. At the village of 
Kranji there is a small pier whence Chinese and Malay 
sampans transport passengers across the Strait to Johore. 
The Johore Strait (Silal Terhau), varying from three- 
quarters of a mile to two miles in breadth, thickly 
wooded on both sides to the water's edge, charms the 
visitor with beauties that are peculiar to land and water 
scenery ; the ever changing light and shade throw the 
landscape into combinations of colour that are as 
pleasing as they are varied. Travellers have compared it 
favourably with the Rhine scenery, with Loch Lomond, 
and with the best views on the estuaries of the Forth 
and the Tay. 

Johore Bahru (**New Johore") the capital of the 
dominions of the Sultan of Johor and Muar, is a town 
with a population of 20,000. The chief place of interest is 
the Istana, or palace, which faces the Strait. It has been 
tastefully furnished in the European style by the present 
Sultan (H. H. Aboo Bakar I.), who is a staunch ally of 

the British Goverument. 

* * 

* 

There are a few bungalows at various places in the 
island, at which residents and others may enjoy a short 
period of country life ; some are the property of the 
Government, one belongs to the Municipality, and others 
are let by private individuals. 

The bungalows let by the Government are : — 

L Changi Bungalow, at the eastern extremity of 
the island, 14 miles from town. There is good sea bathing 
to be had here. 

2. Bukit Timah Bun ficalow on tke li\.llQlVViaX»\saja3&. 



4i Handbook to Singapore. 

3. Selitar Bungalow, nine miles from town, on the 
Thompson Koad. Here there is an excellent fresh-water 
swimming-bath. 

These bungalows are rented (furnished) to the general 
public, preference being given to Government servants and 
military officers, at a monthly rate of $25 for the first two, 
and %VLh^ for the third. If taken for less than a month, 
the lutes are — $10 per week or $2 per day forChaugi and 
Bukit Timah, and S5 per week or Si per day for Selitar. 

The Municipal Bungalow is at the Impounding 
Eeservoir, and may be rented for S35 per month. 
Other bungalows, belonging to private individuals, are to 
be had on the sea-shore at Passir Panjang to the West, 
Tanjong Katong to the East of the town at much the 
same rent. At both places there is good sea-bathing. 









: 



i 



-^ I 



[f 



\ 



CHAPTEE V. 
Public Buildings and Places or Inteeest, 




Botanical Gardens. 
(Malay Name. — Kehiln Btingah.) 

'NE of the chief favourite resorts of residents 
and visitors are these gardens, situated about 
three miles from town. They are managed 
by the Government Director of Gardens and Forests 
(H. N. Eidley, Esq., f.l.s.), assisted by a committee of 
local gentlemen. Before they were taken up by Govern- 
ment, the Gardens were maintained by local subscrip- 
tions ; and when the idea of having public Gardens was 
first conceived, part of the slope of Fort Canning Hill was 
utilized for the purpose, until the ground where the 
Gardens now are was obtained. Gov^emment took over 
the Gardens in December, 1874. They occupy a large 
extent of ground on and around a hill between the In- 
fantry Barracks at Tanglin and Tyersall, the Singapore 
residence of H. H. the Sultan of Johore. A great variety 
of tropical plants and trees may be seen in the grounds; 
there are several ferneries and orchid houses ; and also, on 
the shoulder of the hill, a small aviary and monkey- 
house where specimens of some of the rarer birds, beasts 
and reptiles of the Straits and ne^hbourhood are on 
exhibition. (See also p. 38.) 

The grounds are well-laid out, and the beauty of the 
landscape, as well as the intereBt oit\i^\>Qi^TLV^^<:^<^^N^^^ 



M*a 



44 Handbook to Singapore. 

make this one of the most attractive spots iu Singapore to 
both residents and visitors. Close by are the Experimental 
Forest Nurseries, opened in 1884, between Clunj and 
Dalvey Roads. 

BousTEAD Institute. 

A handsome building, now in process of erection at 
the comer of Anson Road and Tanjong Pagar Road. It is 
intended for the benefit of Seamen. It is three storeys 
high ; and it will be fitted with bedrooms, refreshment 
rooms, recreation rooms of various kinds and a hall for 
meetings. The Institute has been founded by the executors 
of the late Edward Boustead, Esq., who left a large sum 
of money for charitable purposes. 

BUKIT TiMAU. 

This hill, the highest point in Singapore Island, 
stands at an elevation of 519 feet above the sea-level. 
There is a Government Bungalow* on the summit, from 
which a magnificent view of Singapore, the islands in the 
Singapore Strait, and the southern part of the Malay 
Peninsula, can be obtained on a clear day. There is a 
good carriage road all the way to the bungalow; while 
there are short cuts which may be taken by pedestrians. 
Formerly, the jungle on the hill was infested by tigers ; 
traces of them are occasionally found even now, but rarely. 
One or two disused pits dug by the natives to entrap these 
animals may be seen here and there upon the hill. Visi- 
tors to Singapore, who have about six hours to spare, will 
find themselves amply repaid by an excursion to the top 
of Bukit Tiniah ; there are few finer views to be had any 

^8ee p. 42. 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest, 45 

where in the world. The distance from the town to the 
foot of the hill is seven miles, and the length of the 
carriage road to the summit about a mile-and-a-half. 

BuKiT TiMAH Cemetery. 

(Malay Name. — Kuh(>ran Orang Puteh), 

Two miles from town, on the Bukit Timah Boad, is 
the Christian Cemetery, opened nearly thirty years ago, 
when the old hurial-ground on Fort Canning Hill was 
disused. The Cemeterv is divided between the Roman 
Catholics and Christians of other denominations; the Catho- 
lic portion with its mortuary chapel is on the left as one 
enters the gate, the Protestant section and mortuary 
chapel are on the right, 

Chinese Protectoeate. 

As the name implies, this is the office of the Protec- 
tor of Chinese, whoso duties are to attend to the interests 
of Chinese residents and immigrants, especially the latter. 
The building is a plain and unpretentious one, and stands 
in Havelock Road not far from its junction with New 
Bridge Road.* 

Churches (See Chapter VI.) 
Clubs (See Chapter VIII.) 

The Convent op the Holy Infant Jesus, stands 
between Victoria Street and North Bridge Road, opposite 
the Cathedral Clnirch of the Good Shepherd (French 



• The estiiblishment of a Chinese Protectoratie was first advised 
in the 1875 Report of the Inspector-General of Police, to be under 
" a European conversant with some dialect of Chinese, &c," Ordin- 
ance III. of 1877, the (?nnipini( OnlLnance, allows the appointment 
of Protector of Immigrants. Mr. W. A, Pickering, c.M.o., was the 
first who held the appointment. lie resigned o^Sic^^ va.\S»i^. 



46 Handbook to Singapore, 

Catholic). The Convent was founded in 1854, it has in 
connection with it an orphanage and girls' school, and a 
refuge for distressed women, irrespective of race. Both 
school and orphanage are large and prosperous ; it is 
supported by contributions willingly given by all classes in 
the community, and draws a monthly grant of 1100 from 
Government for the orphanage, in addition to the educa- 
tional grant given yearly according to the report of the 
Inspector of Schools. A number of the Sisters are em- 
ployed in sick-nursing at the General Hospital. 

Docks. 

1. The Tanjong Pagar Dock Company have wharves a 
mile-and-a-quarter in length, lying to the south-west of the 
city, with which they are connected by steam tramways. 
The following are the particulars of these wharves : — 

Length. Depth at low water. 

West Wharf ... Over a mile ... 25 to 35 feet. 

Sheers do. ... 340 feet ... 26' „ 

East do. ... 500,. {Out^ff,^ ;; 

There are two large Graving Docks : the Victoria Dock, 
with a length on the block of 450 feet, breadth of entrance 
65 feet, and depth of water on sill at ordinary spring 
tides 20 feet ; and the Albert Dock, with a length on the 
block of 475 feet, breadth of entrance 60 feet, and depth of 
water on sill at ordinary spring tides 21 feet. There are 
lai'ge and well-fitted machine shops, &c., on the Wharf, with 
all the materials for the rapid refitting of ships ; there are 
extensive godowns for the reception and storage of cargo ; 
and coal sheds, roofed with corrugated iron, capable of 
holding 100,000 tons of coal stand immediately behind 
the Wharf. Ships are coaled by Chinese coolies with an 
astonishing rapidity. The Company was incorporated in 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 47 

1864, and since then has largely increased the wharf ac- 
commodation at the port. An extension of the Wharf is 
being made at the east end. 

2. Ths New Hm-hour Dock Compa7iy originally started 
in 1858, as the Patent Slip and Dock Co., has two graving 
docks, a large wharf, a machine shop, foundries and 
godowns for cargo and coal. No. 1 Dock has a length of 
375 feet, breadth of entrance 42 feet, and depth of water 
on sill at ordinary spring tides 14 to 15| feet : the corres- 
ponding measurements of No. 2 Dock are 459 feet, 62 feet 
and 19 to 20 feet respectively. Steam tramways also 
connect this Dock with the town. 

3. The Singapore Slipway and Emjineei'ing Company 
have two slipways at Tanjong Rhu, on the N.E. side of the 
town. No. 1, 429 feet long, takes up vessels of 500 tons ; 
No. 2, with a length of 200 feet, can accommodate vessels 
up to 50 tons. 

The Docks and Wharves employ a large amount of 
skilled European labour. 

ESPLANADB. 

(Malay Name. — Padang Besdr), 

This is a large plain skirting the sea, in the heart of 
the city. About fifteen acres of lawn, round which runs 
a broad and well-made carriage drive, are railed off for 
purposes of recreation, and are divided between the Singa- 
pore Cricket Club and the Singapore Eecreation Club. 
The Singapore Cricket Club, which occupies the part 
nearest to the Singapore Eiver, has a large and well- 
appointed pavilion at one end of the Esplanade, while the 
Singapore Eecreation Club has a smaller, octagonal pavi- 
lion at the other. In the middle of the plain is a statue 
of Sir Stamford Eaffles. Cricket, tennis, football aA.4 



48 Handbook to Stngapote. 

bowls are played daily on the plain ; and on New Year's 
Day, the Singapore Cricket Club has a great festival of 
European and Native sports by sea and land. On the 
landward side of the Esplanade stand the Hotel de 
TEurope and St. Andrew's Cathedral ; and beyond the 
carriage drive on the other side, is a strip of green along 
the sea-wall, with a foot-path, which affords a cool and 
pleasant walk in the eai'ly morning and afternoon. 

Bound the plain and along the sea-wall young trees 
have been planted recently, which, in the course of a few 
years, will add greatly to the beauty of the scene. 

Drill Hall. 

This large and spacious building designed by 
Hon. Major McCallum, r.e., c.m.o., the Color.ial Engineer, 
and built by Govemnieut for the Singaf)ore Volunteer 
Artillery in 1891, stands on the site of the original fort 
o\\ the island — Fort Fullerton — behind the General Post 
Office and the Shipping Office. This hall is the largest in 
Singapore (length 150 feet, breadth 52 feet clear space). 
It is fitted with a gymnasium for the use of members of 
the corps. Outside stands a seven-inch muzzle-loading 
gun, used for heavy gun drill. 

The Exchanob and Chamber of Commerce. 

The Exchange is a handsome laiilding close by John- 
ston's Pier. It was erected in 1879. The lower floor is 
occupied by the (Chamber of Commerce, the Exchange, 
and the Offices of the Singapore Insurance Co. In the 
hall is a fine bronze bust of General Sir Andrew 
Clarke, r.e., k.c.m.g., who was Governor of the Straits 
Settlements from 1873 to 1875. The upper story is used 
bjr the Singapore Club, and has large tiffin, billiard and 



Public Buildings and Places of Interests 49 

reading rooms. At the back of the building, overlooking 
the sea, there are spacious and cool yerandahs. 

FoET Canniho. 

(Malay Name. — Bukit Bandera). 

Fort Canning Hill stands behind the town, the main 
approach to it being from Orchard Eoad. It was origin- 
ally called Government Hill, because Sir Stamford 
Raffles fixed his residence there, on his arrival in the 
island. For more than forty years his house continued 
the Government residence. The Fort is now used as the 
Artillery Barracks, and on the southern summit of the hill, 
at a height of 156 feet above the sea level, stands a signal 
station, flag staff and light, facing the town and strait. 
Shipping and fire signals are shewn on the staff, time 
guns and fire alarms are fired from the Fort (see p. 21). 
On the slope of the hill, below the Fort towards the south- 
east are the Old Cemetery and the shrine of Iskander 
Khan. {Vide infra), A very fine view of the town and 
strait is to be had from the battlements of the Fort, 

Gaol. 

The Civil and Criminal Prisons are at Sepoy Lines 
about two miles from town, and are enclosed within one 
boundary wall. The old gaol used to stand on the vacant 
piece of ground which lies opposite to the Raffles Library 
and Museum. The criminal prison has 954 cells, and 
prisoners are kept on the separate system. The civil 
prison has 9 solitary cells, 3 condemned cells, 6 associated 
wards, 6 debtors* associated sleeping wards, 1 female ward, 
and 4 female separate cells. 

The prisoners are under the supervision of European 
warders, assisted by native officers and Sikh constables. 
The prison hospital contains 58 beda. 



50 Handbook to Singapore, 

GOVBBNMENT HOUSB. 

(Malay Name — Tuan Oehenor pnnya Bdmah,) 

On the top of what is now called Government Hill 
and in the midst of a spacious and beautifully laid-out 
park stands Government House, which both for situation 
and architecture is perhaps the finest building of its kind 
in the Far East. The site and grounds cost more than 
$40,000, and the cost of the building itself was $180,000. 
Before its erection and occupation, the residence of the 
Governor was on Fort Canning and afterwards on Leoni 
Hill in Grange Road. Singapore owes the present Govern- 
ment House to Gen. Sir Harry St. George Ord, the first 
Governor of the Colony after its transference from the 
Indian Government to the Crown. His proposals were at 
first received with disfavour, the popular impression being 
that a building of that size and expense was unnecessary and 
extravagant. More recently, however, it has been found 
that Government House, large as it is, is scarcely large 
enough to meet local requirements. The plans for the 
building were drawn up by Major McNair, b.a., and the 
house was ready for occupation in 1869. The architec- 
ture is of a composite order; Doric and Ionic elements 
being, however, most prominent. The length of frontage 
is 235 feet, and the width of the main building is 73 feet. 
In the centre, above the entrance-hall rises a tower crowned 
with a Mansard roof. A wing at the back runs at right 
angles to the main building, over 100 feet in length. The 
wide verandahs, on both storeys, give one the impression 
that the internal accommodation of the edifice is larger 
than it really is. Entering at the main door, through the 
porch, the visitor finds himself in a large marble-paved hall, 
opening on the left into a long dining-room, with a small 
billi&rd'TOGm screened off at the far end ; and on the left 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest, 51 

into the ball-room, at the far end of which is a line statue 
of H.M. the Queen, unveiled in the Jubilee Year (1887). 
In front of him, there is a wide staircase leading to the re- 
ception room on the upper floor. The interior is tastefully 
furnished, and the whole building was fitted with the elec- 
tric light in 1890. The main approach to Government 
House is from Orchard Road, where, passing through 
massive iron gates, a carriage drive (formerly called 
Edinburgh Road) winds up the hill through the domain to 
the house. From the top of the hill there is an extensive 
view of the town and strait, and a lai^e part of the island. 

Government Offices. 
(Malay Name — /S^econci Gehenor pu7iya Ofis.) 

These stand on the north bank of the Singapore 
river, near Cavenagh Bridge, all included in one large 
building. In this building are included the Secretariat, 
the Audit Office, the Registration of Deeds Office, the 
Land Office, the Public Works and Medical Departments, 
the Treasury and Stamp Office, and the Offices of the 
Colonial Engineer, the Official Assignee, and the Inspec- 
tor-General of Police. Under the same roof is the Legis- 
lative Chamber. The original building was much smaller 
than the present one, but considerable additions were 
made in 1879 and 1888, the whole of the wing at the rear 
being erected in the last-named year. 

The Legislative Chamber, in the centre of the build- 
ing on the upper floor, is a spacious room, in the middle of 
which, enclosed in an iron railing, is the Council table, at 
which the Hon. Legislators sit during their deliberations. 
On the wall, at one end of the hall, hangs a portrait 
of Her Majesty the Queen in her royal robes ; and at the 
further end of the room is a handsomely carved teak 
screen. 



52 Handbook to Singapore. 

Hospitals (See Chapter VI.). 

HoTKLS (See Chapter VII.). 

Ladies' Lawn ob Dhoby Ghaut. 

(Malay Name. — Padang Kechil). 

A small but prettily kept garden, occupying part of 
what was originally the Dhoby Ghaut, opposite the Scotch 
Church, in Orchard Eoad. The stream that skirts its west 
side was used by the dhobies (washermen) in former times. 
The garden is now used by the Ladies' Lawn Tennis Club. 
There are nine or ten tennis courts on the Lawn ; a small 
pavilion in the centre, and the rest of the plain is occupied 
by variegated trees and shrubs. 

Mabine Department and Shipping Office. 

(Malay Name. — Shahhunder punya Ofis or Ofis Khldn), 

The old Shipping Office used to stand on the ground 
now occupied by the rear wing of the Government Offices ; 
but some years ago it was removed to more commodious 
premises on the south bank of the Singapore river, dividing 
with the Drill Hall and the General Post Office, the site of 
Fort FuDerton. The basement is occupied by the Import 
aud Export Office, and the upper storey by the Master 
Attendant. 

Markets. 

There are five large Markets in Singapore : — 

1. The Town Market, at the western end of 

CoUyer Quay ; 

2. The Clyde Terrace Market in Beach Road ; 

3. The Ellenborough Market, near New Bridge 

Boad; 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 53 

4. The Bochore Market, iu the district of that 

name; and, 

5. The Orchard Eoad Market (Koek's Bazaar), in 

the road whose name it bears. 
The first four are farmed by the Municipality, that is 
to say the exclusive right of letting the stalls in these 
markets is farmed out at an annual rental. Fish, fresh 
meat, poultry, eggs, fruit, vegetables, and other produce 
are sold by native vendors at these markets ; in the early 
morning and in the afternoon when the supplies of fresh 
fish are for sale, the scene at the markets is lively and 
interesting. 

MONUMBNTS. 

The Dalhousie Obelisk commemorating the first visit 
of a Governor-Oeneral of India to Singapore, stands near 
the Cricket Pavilion at the S. W. end of the Esplanade. 
Lord Dalhousie was Oovernor-Oeneral of India from 1848 
to 1856, and it was during his administration that he 
visited Singapore. The monument was removed from its 
original site — only a few yards from where it now stands — 
in 1891, because, owing to recent improvements in the 
Esplanade, its remaining where it was would have impeded 
the traffic. 

In front of the Town Hall stands a monument, com- 
memorating the first visit of the King of Siam to Singa- 
pore — a bronze Elephant on a high pedestal, H. M. Som- 
dech Phra Paramundr Maha Chulalonkom, King of Siam 
(father of the present king), visited Singapore iu 1871. 
Inscriptions on the pedestal in English, Chinese, Siamese, 
and Malay record this fact. 

In the middle of the Esplanade there is a fine statue 
of Sir Thomas Stamford Eaffles, the founder ot \»\>L<^^^\^i^^- 



54 Handbook to Singapore, 

ment, erected in 1887. Sir Stamford is represented in a 
standing posture, with folded arms, head slightly bent 
and looking seawards. The pedestal is of grey granite, 
and bears his coat of aims. 

A monument to the late Colonel Ronald Macpher- 
son, R.A., at one time Lieutenant-Governor and Colonial 
Secretary in the Straits Settlements (06. 1867), stands in 
the Cathedral Compound, facing the sea. It consists of a 
pedestal and decorated shaft of grey and red granite, sur- 
mounted by a Maltese cross. 

Among the monuments there should be included the 
handsome fountain presented to the town by the late Mr. 
Tan Kim Seng, a Chinese gentleman, who in other ways 
proved himself a public benefactor. The occasion of its 
erection was the completion of the works by which a good 
water-supply was brought to the town. The fountain 
stands in Battery Road, opposite the General Post Office 
and the Exchange. 

Old Cemeteby. 

The original burial-ground of the first residents in 
Singapore is on the slope of Fort Canning Hill. It was 
opened in 1822, and consecrated by the Bishop of Calcutta 
in 1834 ; but was disused on the opening of the new 
Cemetery in Bukit Timah Road in 1867. Here sleep some 
of the fathers of the Colony, and many old residents. Two 
Gothic gate-ways, at the north and south ends, afford an 
entrance to the burial-ground ** where heaves the turf in 
many a mouldeiing heap." In spite of care, many of the 
old tomb stones and monuments are falling to pieces. 

The southern half was allotted to members of the 
Anglican communion, the northern to other Christian de- 
BominaLtiona. 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest, 55 

POLICB COUET AND COXJET OF EeQUESTS. 

The New Police Courts — a large and imposing 
structure — are built at the south end of the Hong Lim 
Green,* and face South Bridge Eoad. The building is T 
shaped ; its architecture is mainly Corinthian ; a Mansard 
roof crowns the centre. It was erected in 1884. Here sit 
the Police Courts and the Court of Eequests (for sums 
not exceeding §50). 

Centeal Police Station. 

(Malay Name — Bumah Faaong Besdr.) 

Opposite the New Police Courts in South Bridge 
Eoad. Erected in 1887. A disastrous explosion occurred 
in the Court yard in 1891, when a detachment of police were 
engaged in emptying old cartridges. Several constables 
were killed, and more severely injured. The Central 
Station is connected by telephone with all the town stations 
and with some in the country districts. 

Geneeal Post Office. 

The General Post Office, originally a one-storey 
pavilion, built in 1874, is now a handsome two-storey build- 
ing, the addition being made in 1883. It stands between 
the Exchange and the Master Attendant's Office, on the 
site of Fort FuUertoD. The four corners are surmounted 
by Mansard roofs ; and the general style of the building 
and its ornamentation is of the Corinthian order. 



• Called after Mr. Hong Lim, a Chinese gentleman, who contri- 
buted $4,000 towards its upkeep. The green was originally offered by . 
the Government to the Chinese population as a recreation-ground, on 
condition that it should be properly kept. Had it not been for the 
liberality of Mr. Hong Lim, this scheme would have faUftn ti\uc^>&!^. 



56 Handbook to Singapore, 

The interior consists of a largo hall, lighted froni 
the roof, and round the hall, below, are the business 
counters and oflSces, and above, on the second storey, a 
gallery into which open other offices. 

Eace Coubse. 

(Malay Name — Pddang Lomba Kuda,) 

The race-course is on a plain to the east of Govern- 
ment Hill, and is approached by the Bukit Timah and 
Kampong Java Eoads. The length of the course is nearly 
a mile. The Singapore Sporting Club hold two race 
meetings annually, in May and October. The Paddock 
and Grand Stands are on the N. W. side of the course, off 
Kampong Java Eoad. The course is also used as a golfing 
links by the Singapore Golf Club. There used to bo a 
rifle range on the course, but it was removed a few years 
ago to Balestier. (See below), 

Eaffles Institution. 

(Malay Name — Skola Beedr.) 

This, the largest educational establishment in the 
Colony, is in Beach Eoad, facing the sea. It was founded 
in 1823, by Sir Stamford Eaffles, whose name it bears, and 
endowed by the Indian Government with large grants of 
land. The land, however, was given back to the Govern- 
ment in consideration of an annual grant in money. 
Eaffles intended the Institution for the higher education 
of Asiatics, but his plan was departed f i*om : it is now an 
elementary English School, with special higher classes for 
the benefit of intending competitors for the Queen's 
Scholarships. (These Scholarships are open annually to 
boys from any school in the Colony ; they arc intended to 
help promising students to complete their education at one 
or other of the British Universities.) 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 57 

The school is under the management of a Board 
of Trustees. The Colonial Secretary, the Colonial Chap- 
lain and the Principal Civil Medical Officer are ez-ojicio 
trustees ; the rest are gentlemen appointed by the Board 
with the sanction of His Excellency the Governor. 

The Principal is R. W. HuUett, Esq., m.a. (Cantab.). 

Included in the building are the temporary labora- 
tories of the Government Analyst. 

A Girls' School (Malay Name — Skola Miisy) was 
added to the Institution in 1845. The building is in 
Brass Bassa Eoad, adjoining the premises of the Boys' 
School. It is a boarding school as well as a day school ; 
and it is managed by a Ladies' Committee, acting under 
the Board of Trustees. 

Ratflbs Libbabt and Musbum. 

(Malay Name — Rumah Kiidb or Tempat Buk.) 

This building was opened in the Jubilee year of 
Her Majesty the Queen (1887). It stands in Orchard 
Road, at the foot of Fort Canning Hill. It is a long, 
narrow edifice, of composite architecture, surmounted by 
a dome. The original plans, designed by Hon. Major 
McCallum, k.b., c.m.o., were drawn for a building double 
the size of the present one, but the expenditure was dis- 
allowed by the Colonial Office, so half of the proposed 
building had to be sacrificed. The basement is occupied 
by the Library, Reading Room, and Offices ; and the 
upper floor is devoted to the Museum. Part of the build- 
ing was reserved for the Curator's quarters, but owing 
to the rapid extension of the Museum, this part is about 
to be added to the public rooms and offices. 

The Library contains about 20,000 volumes ; and the 
Museum is rich in zoological and ethnological specimens 
connected with Malaysia. The Reading room \& <^'^<^CL\i^ 



5^ HAmdho^k t9 Simifap^re^ 



ih0t pablk from 10 xjl to $ pjk. Hie Tniiunan n cnjoja 
an annnaJ gnnt from Gorcmesii, and is managed by » 
Cammittee, af^wmted bj the G^rvmMir, of vhich the CqId- 
nial SeeretaiT is er afbio dainaan. (See also pw 37.) 



The High Serrice Besezroir is on an eleration between 
GoTemment and Sophia Hills. There are two cisterns, 
holding together aboot 3.000,000 gallons, into which 
water is forced bj a steam-pomp at the foot of the hiD. 
Before being pumped up to the dstera, the water, brooght 
in pipes from the Impounding Besenroir (viiis m/m), 
passes through the large new filter beds in Buldt !nmah 
Boad (opened in 1891). The grounds round the High 
Serrice Beserroir are laid out as a garden, with flowers, 
shrubs and trees. A number of garden seats are placed 
along the foot-paths, and a Terr fine view, towards the 
east and north, is to be had on a clear daj. 

The Impounding Besenroir (Malaj Name — Kolam 
Ayer) is on the left of Thomson Boad four miles from town. 
(See page 39.) The Mimicipalitj arc at present enlarg- 
ing it to nearly double its original size. 

BiFLE Bangs, Balestieb. 

(Malay Name — Tempat Tembak.*) 

On the Balestier plain, behind the Tan Tock Seng 
Hospital and opposite the Leper Hospital. There are two 
butts — range 900 yards. The range is used by the 
Singapore Biflo Association; the Swiss Bifle-Shootinc: 
Olub have a smaller range of their own, further along 
Ualesticr Boad. 



^ Final k not lounded. 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 59 

Sailors' Home. 

(Malay Name — Bumah KhlasL) 

This institution, which is intended to supply board 
and lodging to seamen on shore, stands at the corner of 
Stamford Eoad and North Bridge Eoad, opposite St. 
Andrew's Cathedral. It was established in 1851. The 
charges are : — 

For Officers $1.15 per diem 

„ Seamen 75 „ 

Sailoes' Eest. 

A Coffee-House and Reading-Room for seamen at 
the western end of South Bridge Road. Evangelistic 
services are_ held in the upper room on Sundays, and occa- 
sionally during the week. 

St. Andrew's House. 

A Boarding-House for boys in connection with the 
Church of England. The present building was erected in 
1891 : it stands at the foot of Fort Canning Hill, in 
Armenian Street, off Stamford Road. 

St. Joseph's Institution, 

Commonly called the Brothers' School, was founded 
in 1852, by the French Missionary Society at the instiga- 
tion of Father Beurel. It is now in a flourishing state, 
though for five years (1880-1885) it was suspended owing 
to the want of men to carry on the work. The building 
with a small chapel attached, stands in Brass Bassa 
Road, almost opposite the Church of the Good Shepherd. 
The system of education in the seliool i^qtl y^^^V^ ^^»(s^:iSs^ 



6o Handbook to Singapore. 

lines, religious instruction being gi^en, however, to the 
pupils belonging to the Roman Catholic faith. A num- 
per of boys are received as boarders. 

Shbinb of Iskandss Khan. 
(Malay Name — Krdmat Iskander Khan.) 

This shrine is on the southern slope of Fort Canning 
Hill, near the old Cemetery. Crossing part of the old 
moat by a wooden bridge, the visitor enters the sacred 
place, and finds himself in a grove of very old and lofty 
trees, in the centre of which is a stucco-covered tomb, 
closely railed in. A pan of incense is kept burning at the 
foot of it day and night ; the railing and the trees are 
covered with the memorials and offerings of the devout. 
After sunset on Friday and Sunday evenings, crowds of 
worshippers flock to this place. The shrine is believea to be 
the resting-place of the Sultan Iskander, one of the heroes 
of the Sejdrat Malayu^* on what authority it is hard to say. 
The tomb was discovered by accident after the British 
settlement in the island, when the jungle on Fort Canning 
was being cut away. It is a very holy spot for Mahom- 
medans, and visits to it are supposed to cure diseases. The 
shrine must be visited on foot, since there is no carriage- 
way to the spot. The best route is by a path that starts 
from the foot of the hill behind the Eaffles Library and 
Museum ; and this path may be struck either from Orchard 
Boad or Coleman Street. 



* The only English translation of the Sejdrat Maldyu known 

to the writer is Leyden's Malay Annals, now out of print. Iskander 

Khan or Iskander Shah is the Eastern name of Alexander the Great, 

and seems to have been used as a title for various Mahommedan 

aovereignB, The Sultans of Singapore always adopted it. 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 6i 

Shbinb of Habib Noob. 
(Malay Name — Krdmai Hdbib Noor.) 

This is a small mausoleum of oriental architecture, 
which stands on a small knoll at Cursetjee's Corner 
(Parsee Lodge), near the foot of Mount Palmer. Here 
was buried a Mahommedan Saint, Habib Noor, who died 
twenty or thirty years ago, after a life which gained a 
great reputation for sanctity uot only in Singapore where 
he lived, but throughout a large part of Malaysia. A 
small Malay cemetery lies round the shrine. The 
approach to it is from Anson Road. 

SXJPBXME COUBT, 

The Supreme Court is at the south ond of High 
Street, facing the Esplanade. It is a large and airy build- 
ing, two storeys in height. The architecture is mainly of 
the Doric order, and the whole structure has a massive 
appearance. It is surmounted by a small dome and flag- 
staff. The building as it now stands is an improvement 
(completed in 1873) of an older building erected in 1832. 
Opening off the entrance hall are the Sheriff's and Regis- 
trar's Departments : and on ascending the stair-case, the 
Supreme Court is entered, behind which is the Puisne 
Judges* Court. 

Tanolin Babbacks. 

The Infantry Barracks are in the Tanglin district, 
about 3 miles to the N. W. of the town, and stand on an 
elevation between Mount Echo and the Botanical Gardens. 
The situation is airy and healthy ; the ground enclosed is 
nearly one square mile iu extent, and within the enclosure 
are the Officers* and Men s Quarters, Shops, Mngazine, 
the Parade ground, rifle range (800 yards), and a large 
amount of open space for recreation and exercise. 



62 Handbook to Singapore. 

Town Hall. 

Between the Government Offices and the Esplanade 
stands the Town Hall, a highly ornamental building of 
composite architecture. It is two storeys high, and on each 
storey there is a large hall. The lower hall, which can be 
seated to hold over 300 people, is fitted with a small stage, 
and is used for theatrical and other entertainments. The 
upper hall, with a small galleiy at the far end, is a good 
concert aod ball-room. Bound the walls are himg por- 
traits of some well-known gentlemen connected with Singa* 
pore and the Straits Settlements. The following is a list 
of the pictures : — 

Col. W. J. Batterworth, Governor of Singapore from 
1843 to 1855. 

Major-General William Orfeur Cavenagh, Governor 
from 1861 to 1867, ]>ainted by public subscription, 1868. 

Thomas Scott, Esq. (of Messrs. Guthrie & Co.), pre- 
sented by Mr. Gan Eng Seng. 

W. H. Eead, Esq., c.m.o. 

General Sir Harry St. George Ord, first Governor of 
the Straits Settlements, after their transfer to the Crown 
(1867-1873). 

Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, q.c.m.q., presented by 
Mr. Cheang Hong Lim, in 1891. 

The side rooms on both floors are used as Municipal 
Offices during the day. There are spacious front and side 
verandahs on the upper floor, and a side verandah or 
corridor on the lower. 

Tyersall. 

(Malay Name — Bilmah Maharaja,) 

This large and palatial building is the Singapore rcsi- 
dence of H. H. the Sultan of JohoTe. OT\^na.Uy a small 



Public Buildings and Places of Interest. 63 

country house, it has been added to, or rather rebuilt on 
a much larger scale, in the present year. It stands on the 
top of a hill near the gardens, in the middle of a well-laid 
out demesne. 

Whampoa's Gabdens. 

(Malay Name — Whampoa piinya Kehun Bungah.) 

For many years the private gardens of Mr. Whampoa, 
a Chinese gentleman, have been considered one of the chief 
sights of Singapore. 

By the courtesy of the proprietor the public are freely 
admitted to the gardens, which are very beautifully laid 
out, and are well worth a visit. They are in Serangoon 
Boad (right hand side) two miles from town. 

Note : — The Malay names of places arc not given in cases 
where the English names arc usually understood 
by the syces. 
For a list of Malay names of places in common use, 
and some Malay phrases, sec Chap. IX. 





CHAPTER VI. 

Places op Wobship and Hospitals. 

HE diversity of races in Singapore is made 
evident to the eye by the many buildings 
throughout the town and island devoted to 
the purposes of religion. A list of these follows, with 
brief descriptions of the principal ones. 

1. The Chubch op England. 

St. Andrew's Cathedral stands near the Esplanade. 
The present building, erected by convict labour, on a site 
consecrated in 1838, where old St. Andrew's Church stood 
from 1837 to 1856, was opened in 1862, and constituted 
the Cathedral Church of the diocese in 1870. The diocese 
under the present Bishop, the Right Rev. G-eorge F. Hose, 
D.D.— includes Singapore, Sarawak and Labuan. The 
Cathedral is an imposing G-othic building sunnounted by 
a fine spire ; its length, including itie chancel is 250 feet, 
the height of the nave is 79 feet and of the spire 204 feet. 
The main-door is under the spire at the western end of 
the Church, and over it is a stained glass window repre- 
senting the four evangelists. Close to the main-door 
stands a marble font of simple and chaste design. A few 
mural tablets and memorial brasses adorn the walls of 
the Church. The chancel is lighted by four stained-glass 
windows covered with floral designs. A fine peal of bells 
was presented by the heirs of the late Captain I. S. M. 
Eraser, h.e.i.c.s., in 1889. In the Cathedral compound, 
which is tastefully laid out as a garden and adorned with 
trees and shrubs, stands a monument to Colonel Ronald 
Macpberaon, b.a. (seep. 54), who designed the building. 



Places of Worship and Hospitals. 65 

Hours of SeiTicc on Sundays: — 7.15 a.m., 9.30 a.m. 
and 5.30 p.m. Daily Service at 5 p.m. 

Sittings in the Cathedral are free at the early 
morning service, and at all other services after the entrance 
of the Clergy. The Cathedral is open daily from 10 a.m. 
to 6.30 p.m. 

St. Andrew's Mission Chapel, on the slope of 
Fort Canning Hill, near the junction of Stamford Road 
and Orchard Road. Services are conducted here in 
English, Malay, Tamil and Chinese. Morning Prayer 
is read daily at 8.30 a.m. There is a small Mission 
Chapel also at Jurong. 

The Church of England is the Established Church of 
the Colony ; a sum of more than $10,000 per annum is 
paid out of the Colonial revenues towards its support.* 

2. The Presbyterian Church of England. 

The Presbyterian Church* (commonly called **the 
Scotch Church") is in Orchard Road, opposite the Ladies' 
Lawn Tennis Club. The congregation was organised in 
1859, and the present Church, a plain building with a 
decorated porch and belfry, was opened in 1878. It is 
under the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the Presbytery of 
London (North). Hours of Service on Sunday : — 7.30 
a.m. and 4.45 p.m. Weekly Service: — Wednesdays at 
8.15 p.m. 

Services after the Presbyterian form are conducted 
also in the Reading Rooms of Tanjong Pagar and New 
Harbour Docks at 9 am. and 10 a.m. respectively. 

Baba Mission Chapel, Prinsep Street. This is the 
head-quarters of the English Presbyterian Mission to the 

* This sum includes the grants for Penang and Malacca, as well 
as for Singapore. 



66 Handbook to Singapore, 

Chinese, which has stations at Bukit Timah, Serangoon, 
<fec., on the island, and also at Johor Bahru and Muar 
in the Peninsula. 

3. The Methodist Episcopal Church. 

This is a small Church, in connection with the 
Methodist Episcopal Mission (American), built about five 
years ago. The Mission has a large and flourishing school 
attached— the Anglo-Chinese School. Both Church and 
School are in Coleman Street, at t*lie foot of Fort Canning 
Hill. Hours of Service on Sunday, in the Church, 7 a.m. 
and 5 P.M. Week-night services on Tuesday, Thursday 
and Friday at 7.30 p.m. 

4. Roman Catholic. 

The majority of the Christian population of Singa- 
pore profess the Eoman Catholic faith. The Bishopric 
of the Diocese of Malacca, which dates from the mission- 
ary journey of St. Francis Xavier in the 16th century, is at 
present held by the Right Rev. Edward Gasnier, d.d. The 
Cathedral Church of the Good Shepherd is in Brass Bassa 
Road. The foundation-stone was laid in 1843, and the 
Church opened for Divine Service in 1847. The building is 
cruciform, surmounted by a spire 161 feet high. Over the 
high altar stands an image of the Good Shepherd, with a 
lamb on his shoulder, and on either side, in separate niches, 
images of SS. Peter and Paul. In the eastern transept 
is an altar to the B. V. Mary, on the left of which is a 
piece of statuary representing Our Lady of Sorrows, hold- 
ing the dead Christ in her arms. A statue of St. Francis 
Xavier in his pontifical robes is on the other side. An 
altar to St. Joseph, with the statue of the Sacred Heart on 
the left, is in the western transept. The walls of the 



Places of Worship and Hospitals, 67 

Church are adorned by fourteen paintings representing 
scenes from Our Lord's Passion. Over the door in the 
eastern transept is a large painting of the martyrdom of 
St. Sebastian. The Church is seated for 1,400 persons. 

There are also the Church of SS. Peter and Paul, 
Queen Street, and the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes, 
Ophir Road, the latter being used by the Tamil Mission. 

There are two Mission Chapels — St. Joseph's Church 
at Bukit Timah, and St. Mary's Church at Serangoon. 
All the foregoing are supported by the French Mission, 
the Society for the Propagation of the Faith (Paris). 

The Procure des Missions Etrangeres is at the 
junction of River Valley Road and Oxley Road. 

The Portuguese Catholics own the jurisdiction of the 
Bishop of Macao, and worship in the Church of St. Joseph, 
Victoria Street, which is seated for about 600 persons. 

5. Armenian. 

The Church of St. G-regory, Hill Street, is similar in 
general external appearance to the Church of the Good 
Shepherd, and is the oldest ecclesiastical building in 
Singapore. It was erected in 1835. Hours of Service on 
Sunday — 8 to 10 a.m. Daily Services at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. 

6. Miscellaneous. 

The Chinese Gospel House, North Bridge Road, 
Bethesda Free Meeting House, Brass Bassa Road. 
The Christian Institute, Waterloo Street. 
The Sailors' Rest, South Bridge Road. 
The Military Chapel at Tanglin is used by different 
denomiuations at different hours. 

Jewish. 
There is a Jewish Synagogue in Waterloo Street. 



68 Handbook to Singapore. 

Mahommedan. 

There are in all twenty-three mosques in the island 
of Singapore. The two best known in town are those in 
North Bridge Road (Kampong Grlam district) and in South 
Bridge Eoad, between Tanjong Pagar and the centre of 
the town. The Malays are all Mahommedan ; they were 
converted to Islam by Arab influences about the 12th 
or 13th century of the Christian era. Most of the Indians 
in Singapore profess the Mussulman faith. 

Indian and Chinese Temples. 

These are very numerous, and scattered about the 
town and island everywhere ; the most numerous being, 
of course, the Chinese. They are easily distinguished by 
their architecture from the mosques, which are severely 
plain in structure, and from one another ; the peculiarities 
of Indian and Chinese architecture need no description 
to enable the visitor to distinguish them. The best known 
of the Indian temples are the so called " Chitty temple"* 
in Tank Road, and the large temple in South Bridge 
Road, near the mosque alluded to in the above paragraph. 

* * 

« 

HOSPITALS. 

1. The General Hospitalf is a large and airy building 
at Sepoy Lines, two miles from the centre of the town. 
Here originally stood the Sepoy Barracks, where troops 



* So called, because the Indian Chitties (i.e., money lenders,) 
worship there. Each caste of Indians has a temple of its own ; and 
it seems that there is a temple for every trade or occupation in the 
town. 

f Mala^ Name — Rumah Orang Sakit. 



Places of Worship and Hospitals, 69 

were stationed in the days of the East India Company. 
Till about ten years ago, the General Hospital was in the 
Bukit Timah Road — the building now called the Lock 
Hospital (^.v.) — but owing to an epidemic scare, the 
patients were transferred to the Sepoy BaiTacks, and these 
soon being found inadequate for local requirements, the 
present roomy building was erected in 1882. 

Two large barrack- wards, 169 ft, by 51 ft., containing 
40 beds each, with other smaller wards, occupy the upper 
storey. A cool verandah runs round the building, and by 
this and other means the Hospital is kept well ventilated. 

There are two small female wards in an attap-roofed 
bungalow, detached from the main building. The dis- 
eases treated in the Hospital are general. The number 
of patients treated during 1890 was 2,455 ; of these 2103 
were discharged and 73 died. 

The nurses at the General Hospital are Sisters from 
the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus ; and there is but 
one opinion in Singapore about the way in which they dis- 
charge their duties. 

2. The Lunatic Asylum* is also at Sepoy Lines, on a 
hill near the Criminal Prison. After the transference of 
the General Hospital from Bukit Timah Road to Sepoy 
Lines, the old building was used for some years as a 
Lunatic Asylum, until the present asylum was ready for 
occupation. The number of patients received during 1890 
was 254. 

3. The Lock Hospital in Bukit Timah Road, was 
originally [vid^ supraj the General Hospital and afterwards 
the Lunatic Asylum. It is now used as a Hospital for 
contagious diseases. It is a low one-storey building, con- 
taining two wards, each containing about twelve beds. 

• Malay Name — liumah Orang Oila, 



70 Handbook to Singapore, 

4. The Tan Tock Seng or Pauper Hospital, the 
largest Hospital in the Colony, is situated iu Serangoon 
Boad, three miles from town. Founded by the late Mr. 
Tan Tock Seng, a wealthy Chinese gentleman, in 1844, it 
was added to in 1854, by his son Mr. Tan Kim Ching, the 
late Siamese Consul in Singapore, who died in the present 
year, and in 1887 by subscriptions from the Chinese com- 
munity. The Hospital has room for more than 600 
patients at oue time. There are 17 wards in all; twelve 
of a large and five of moderate size. The building, which 
has a very pleasing appearance externally, stands in 
grounds of about 18 acres in extent. 5,891 patients were 
treated in 1890, of whom 4,319 were discharged, cured or 
relieved, and 948 died. 

6. The Prison Hospital. See p. 49. 

6. The Leper Hospital is on Balestier Plain, behind 
the Tan Tock Seng Hospital, 

7. The Maternity Hospital and Out Door Dispensary 
is in Victoria Street, near Stamford Road, about a quarter 
of a mile from the Cathedral. 

8. The Quarantine Hospital is in St. John's Island 
in the Singapore Strait, at the Quarantine Station. 

The Government Grants to hospitals in Singapore, 
amounted in 1890 to $51,959.10, exclusive of Medical 
Officers' salaries. 





CHAPTER VII. 
The Population op Sinoapoee. 

^f^N 1819, when Sir Stamford Raffles landed, the 
4ll|) population of the island was estimated as under 
^^^^ 200. The foundation of a British trading 
settlement attracted many immigrants both from 
China and the Archipelago, so that by 1822, the number 
of inhabitants was reckoned at 10,000. From that time 
the population has steadily risen till, according to the 
last census (1891), the grand total of 184,554 has been 
reached.* The population is very mixed ; few nations and 
languages are unrepresented. The details of the last 
census are as follows : — European and American residents 
5,254; Eurasians, 3,589 ; Chinese, 121,908; Malays and 
other natives of the Archipelago,t 35,992 ; Natives of 
India and Burmah, 16,035 ; other nationalities (Arabs, 
Armenians, Persians, Egyptians, Singhalese, Siamese, 
Anamese, Japanese, Jews and Negroes), 1,776. It will 
thus be seen that the Chinese number 66 per cent, of the 
whole population ; but of the 122,000 over 12,000 are 
Straits bom (Bahas). About a third of the Chinese are 
Hok-kiens (45,000). 

The lingua franca of the Straits Settlements is Malay 
(see Chap. XV.) ; which is the language generally used 
in commerce, and between Asiatics of different races. It 



• In 1826, the population was estimated at 13,732 ; in 1831, at 
20,000 ; and 1840, at 39,681 ; and in 1881 at 139,208. 

t These include Achinese, Boyancse, Bu^^s, Dyaks, Javanese, 
JawiPekkans, and Manilamen. {See p. 74.) 



72 Handbook to Singapore. 

is not uncommon to hear two Chinamen, who speak 
different dialects of Chinese, conversing in Malay. 

The Malays, though not the aborigines of the Penin- 
sula, were the dominant race when the Europeans first 
came on the scene. Mr, Alfred Russel Wallace thus 
describes the physical, mental and moral characteristics 

of this interesting people. "The colour is alight 

reddish brown, with more or less of an olive tinge, not 
varying in any important degree over an extent of country 
as large as all Southern Europe. The hair is equally 
constant, being invariably black and straight, and of a 
rather coarse texture, so that any lighter tint, or any 
wave or curl in it, is almost certain proof of the admixture 
of some foreign blood. The face is nearly destitute of 
beard, and the breast and limbs are free from hair. The 
stature is tolerably equal, and is always considerably 
below that of the average European ; the body is robust, 
the breast well-developed, the feet small, thick and 
short, the hands small and rather delicate, the face 
is a little broad, and inclined to be flat ; the forehead is 
rather rounded, the brows low, the eyes black and very 
slightly oblique ; the nose is rather small, not prominent, 
but straight and well-shaped, the apex a little rounded, 
the nostrils broad and slightly exposed ; the cheek-bones 
are rather prominent, the mouth large, the lips broad and 
well-cut, but not protruding, the chin round and well- 
formed. 

" In this description there seems little to object to 
on the score of beauty, and yet, on the whole, the Malays 
are certainly not handsome. In youth, however, they are 
often very good-looking, and many of the boys and girls 
up to twelve or fifteen years of age are very pleasing, and 
some have countenances which are in their wav almost 
perfect'' "In character the Malay is impas- 



The Population of Singapore. 73 

sive. He exhibits a reserve, diffidence and even bashf ill- 
ness, which is in some degree attractive, and leads the 
observer to think that the ferocious and blood-thirsty 
character imputed to the race must be grossly exaggerated. 
He is not demonstrative. His feelings of surprise, admir- 
ation, or fear are never openly manifested, and are probably 
not strongly felt. He is slow and deliberate in speech, 
and circuitous in 'introducing the subject he has come 
expressly to discuss.* These are the main features of his 
moral nature, and exhibit themselves in every action of 
his life. 

" The higher classes of the Malays are exceedingly 
l^olite, and have all the quiet ease and dignity of the 
best-bred Europeans. Yet this is compatible with a 
reckless cruelty and contempt of human life, which is the 
dark side of their character.f It is not to be wondered 
at, therefore, that different persons give totally opposite 
accounts of them — one praising them for their soberness, 
civility, and good nature ; another abusing them for their 
deceit, treachery and cruelty." " The intel- 
lect of the Malay race seems rather deficient. They are 
incapable of anything beyond the simplest combinations 
of ideas, and have little taste or energy for the acquire- 
ment of knowledge. J Their civilization, such as it is, does 
not seem to be indigenous, as it is entirely confined to 
those nations who have been converted to the Mahomme- 
dan or Brahminical religions." 

Nothing need be added to this description by Mr. 
Wallace, except that of all the Asiatics in the Straits the 

* This last is a characteristic of most Asiatics. 

t It need hardly be said that where British influence is supreme 
these qualities are repressed, and will probably die out from want of 
exercise. 

X This is probably one reason why the Malay literature is 
imitative rather than original. (See Ch^-^. X\ >, 



74 Handbook to Singapore, 

Malays are the laziest. The religion of the Malays in the 
Straits Settlements and in the Peninsula is Mahommedan. 
The Brahminical Malays, referred to above, are found in 
the islands of Bali and Lombok to the south-east of Java, 
and also in the hill-countrv of Java. 

In Singapore there are representatives of at least 
seven Malay tribes — Achinese, from the north-weat of 
Sumatra, Boyanese, from Bawean, a small island north of 
Java ; Bugis from the Celebes ; Dyaks, the savage tribe of 
BorDeo; Javanese, Jawi Pekkans, or Jawi Peranakkans, a 
mixed native race, belonging to the Settlement,* and 
Manilamen from the Philippines. The Malays in Singapore 
are largely employed in fishiog : many take service as 
coachmen, grooms, gardeners and police. The fishing 
population live in attap houses built on piles on the sea 
shore between the high and low water mark ; and those 
for whom dwellings are not provided in connection with 
their work, live in similar houses built inland. 

Chinese characteristics are too well-known to need 
description here. In Singapore they form by far the 
largest part of the industrial population, they supply the 
labour on the plantations, at the docks and wharves; they 
are bricklayers, carpenters, boatmen, ricksha coolies, 
market-gardeners, tailors, shoe-makers, bakers, <fec., &c. 
There are thousands of Chinese shops throughout the town, 
large and small, stored with goods from all parts of the 
world. Almost all the domestic servants are Chinese; so 
are many of the clerks employed in the banks, offices, and 
stores: and there is a considerable number of prosperous 
and wealthy Chinese merchants who can hold their own 
with the European firms. Of the different Chinese races 



* Born in Singapore, not necessarily Malays. Mothers frequently 
Malay, 



The Population of Singapore. 75 

there are representatives of at least five in Singapore — 
Hok-kiens (the most numerous) ; Hykims, Cantonese or 
Macaos (these two, especially the former, are mostly 
domestic servants); Teo Chews and Kehs.* The peculi- 
arities of Chinese architecture and house decoration may 
be seen in all parts of the town. 

The various Indian races are very variously employed 
from the Chitty, or money-lender, to the hack-gharry syce, 
the dhobi (or washerman) and the coolie. Many Indians 
are employed as messengers in the offices and shops; 
some enter domestic service; while others pursue various 
industries. The Armenians, Parsees, Arabs and Jews 
are mainly traders. 

The diversity of races, pursuits, languages, customs 
and dress in Singapore is a source of never failing interest 
to the observer. The variety of the world is compressed 
into a few streets before his eyes. 



* The Hok-kiens come from Amoy, the Teo Chews from the 
Swatow district, and the Kehs from the Hakka country ; ivhile the 
Hylams come from the island of Hainan* 



CHAPTER VIII, 

Clubs, Societies, Banks, Consulates, Hotels, 

Shops, &c. 

Clubs : — 

Marine Club ... ... Battery Road. 

Masonic Club ... ... Coleman Street. 

Tanglin Club ... ... Steven's Road — [contain- 

ing a Ball-room, Theatre, 
Billiard-room and Bowl- 
ing Alleys]. 

Teutonia Club (or Ger- 
man Club) ... ... Scott's Road. 

Singapore Club (see under Exchange, p. 48.) 

Literary and Scientific Societies : — 

Anglo-Chinese Literary 

Association ... ... Coleman Street (M. E. 

Chapel). 
German Reading Club. 
Royal Asiatic Society (Straits Branch) . 
Singapore Debating Society. 
Straits Medical Association. 

Political : — 

Imperial Federation League. 

Straits Association (Singapore Branch). 



Clubs, Societies, &c. 77 

Musical : — 

Philharmonic Society of St. Cecilia. 
Singapore Philharmonic Society. 

RELiaious : — 

British and Foreign Bible 

Society ... ... 46, Raffles Place. 

Chinese Christian Associa- 
tion ... ... Prinsep Street Cha]^)ol. 

Confraternity of the Bless- 
ed Lady of Rosary and 

St. Francis Xavier ... St, Joseph's Church, Vic- 
toria Street, 

Society of St. Anthony of Padua. 

Society of St. Vincent de Paul. 

SpoRTiNa AND Athletic ; — 
Cycling Club. 

Ladies* Lawn Tennis Club,* Orchard Road (see p. 52) 
St. Andrew's Cycling Club,t 
Singapore Cricket Club,J Esplanade (see p. 47) 
Do. Golf Club ... Race Course, Kampong 

Java Road (see p. 56) 
Do. Recreation 

Club ... Esplanade {see -p, 47). 
Do. Rifle Associa- 
tion ... Balestier Plain {seep. 58) 
Do. Rowing Club,§ 

Do. Sporting Club, Race Course, Kampong 

Java Road {see p. 66) 
Swiss Rifle Shooting Club, Balestier Plain {see p. 58) 

* Colours, light blue .and chocolate. 

t Coloivrs, St. Andrew's Cross on white ground. 

X Colours, black and yellow. 

§ Colours^ light and dark blue. 



7 8 Handbook to Singapore* 

Sporting and Athletic — conid. 
Straits Chinese Eecrea- 
tionClub ... ...Hong Lim Green, New 

Bridge Road {see p. 55 Note) 
Tanjong Pagar Football Association (Chinese), 

Masonic ; — 

District Grand Lodge of the Eastern Archipelago. 

Lodge Zetland in the East, No. 508. 

Lodge St. George, No. 1152. 

Dalhousie Royal Arch Chapter, No. 508. 

Rose Croix Chapter, 188 (IVlount Calvary in the East, 
No. 47). 

Dunlop Masonic Benevolent Society. 

Adullam Conclave, No. 1 7 (Order of the Secret Monitor). 

Singapore Emulation Lodge of Instruction, No. 608 
(E.C.). 

Star of the East Preceptory and Priory, No. 85. 

Eduljee Jamsetjee Mark Master's Lodge. 

Between 1875 and 1879, Masonic Meetings wore held 
in a house in Beach Road. In the latter year, the 
Masonic Hall (Coleman Street, at the Foot of Fort 
Canning) was erected. It was then a builling of one 
storey ; but in 1887, another storey was atbled, which 
contains a fine hall. 

Miscellaneous : — 

Association of Engineers. 
Masters* and Mates' Association, S.S* 
Pilot Club, Tanjong Pagar. 
St. John's Ambulance Association. 
Singapore Amateur Photographic Society, 53, Hill St. 
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. 

* * 
* 



t 



Banks and Consulates. 79 

The following is a list of the principal shops and 
offices which visitors to Singapore may find it necessary 
to visit. 
Banks : — 

Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China,* 

Ilaffles Place. 
Chartered Mercantile Bank of India, London and 

China, 27, Eaffles Pla(;e. 
Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, f 

CoUyer Quay. 
New Oriental Bank Corporation, Eaffles Place. 

Consulates : — 

Austro-Hungary ... Battery Road. 

Belgium ... ... 1, Boat Quay. 

Brazil ... ... 28, Malacca Street. 

China ... ... Hill Street. 

Denmark ... ... 4, Cecil Street. 

France ... ... 124, River Valley Eoad. 

Germany ... ... Battery Road- 

Japan ... ... 21, Sophia Road. 

Italy ... ... River Valley Road. 

Netherlands ... ... Battery Road. 

Portugal ... ... River Valley Road. 

Russia ... ... 1, Cecil Street. 

Siam 

Spain ... ... 93, Neil Road. 

Sweden and Norway ... CoUyer Quay, 

United States ... ... Battery Road. 

[N,B, — The Consulates have the flags of the nations 
they represeut flying above their Offices]. 

* •* Chartered Bank," " Mercantile Bank," " Hongkong Bank," 
and '* Oriental Bank" (or Bank Lamah) are the names to be used in 
directing native syces. 

f The H. and S. B. Corporation are building new offices at the 
corner of Battery Hoad and Collyer Quay, opposite the Exchi3.\i<^<^, 



8o 



Handbook to Singapore. 



Hotels : — 

Adelphi Hotel... 
Albion Hotel ... 
Beach Hotel ... 
Central Hotel... 
Hotel de TEurope 
Hotel de la Paix 
Raffles Hotel ... 
Straits Hotel ... 
Tanjong Katong Hotel ... 
Union Hotel ... 
Victoria Hotel 

Livery Stables : — See p. 82. 

Post Office \—See p. 55. 

Teleoraph Office, Prince Street, between Eaffles Place 
and Colly er Quay. 

Tiffin and Billiard Rooms : — 

Emmerson's Tiffin and Bil- 
liard Rooms ... Near Cavenagh Bridge. 

Raffles Tiffin and Billiard 

Rooms ... ... Raffles Place. 



1, Coleman Street. 
59, Hill Street. 
4, Beach Road. 

1, Stamford Road. 
Esplanade. 
Coleman Street. 

2, Beach Road. 

2, Stamford Road. 
Tanjong Katong. 
North Bridge Road. 
135, Victoria Street. 



General Stores : — 

Ann Lock & Co.* 
Joseph Bastiani 
Geok Teat & Co. 
Katz Brothers 
John Little & Co. 



... 13, Battery Road. 
... 5, High Street. 
. . 11, Battery Road. 
... Klin g Street. 
... Raffles Place. 



* In directing the syce, it is generally enough to say — Fergi 
ka (here insert name of the firm) punya podown. 



Booksellers and Stationers, &€. 8i 

Booksellers and Stationers : — 
Singapore and Straits 

Printing Office ... Robinson Street. 

Kellj and Walsh. ... 5, Battery Road. 

John Little and Co. ... Raffles Place. 

Printers and Booc-binders : — 
Singapore and -Straits 

Printing Office . . . Robinson Street- 

Newspaper Offices : — 

"Singapore Free Press'* . . 20a, Colly or Quay. 

"Straits Times" ... Chaui^e Alley. Raffles Place. 

Tailors AND Outfitters:— 

Chong Fee, Gee Chong 
&Co. ... 65-67. High Street. 

Johu Little & Co. . . . Raffles Place. 

Robinson & Co. ... 23, Coliyer Quay. 

Dispensaries : — 

The Dispensary ... 43, Raffles Place. 

Singapore Dispensary . . . 40, Raffles Place. 

Maynard&Co. ... 14-17, Battery Road. 

Mineral and Aerated Water Manufacturers : — 
Singapore and Straits 

Aerated Water Co. ... Robinson Street. 
•* The Dispensary ** Aera- 
ted Water Works . . . Brass Bassa Road. 
Singapore Aerated Water 
% Factory ... High Street. 

Furniture Warehouses : — 

Katz Brothers. ... Kling Street. 

Knight & Co. . . Battery Road and Hill St. 

John Little & Co, . Raffles Place. 

Powell & Co. ... 16-18, d'Almeida Street 

and Tank Road. 




CHAPTER IX. 

Bates of Hibe fob Pbivate and Hackney Cabbiaoes, 

WITH Tables of Distances. 

IRIVATE Carriages may be hired from the 
following Livery Stables: — 

F. Clarke & Co., Hill Street. 
A. Holley (Lambert Brothers), Orchard Road. 
The Straits Horse Repository and Livery Stables — 
(H. Abrams), comer of North Bridge and Brass Bassa 
Roads. 

The charge for a carriage and pair is $5 per day ; for a 

can'iage with one horse ?3 per day ; there being an extra 

charge, in both cases, if the carriage is used after 7 p.m. 

For more than one day the charges are as follows : — 

Carriage and Carriage and 
pair. one horse. 

One month or more, per day 33.00 . . . $2.50 

Half month, per day ... 3.50 ... 2.00 

One week (7 days), per day 4.00 ... 3.00 

Saddle horses can be hired at $2 per day. 

[N.B. — These charges are approximate.] 

Hackney Carriages may be hired at the following 
rates (2nd class carriages) : — 

$ c. 

For any distance not exceeding half-a-mile 15* 

For any distance, exceeding half-a-mile but 

not exceeding a mile ... ... 20 

For every additional mile or part of a mile 10 

* For 3rd class carriages, the rate is 5 cents less. Every 
gharry baa its chsa clearly marked on the doors. 



Rates of Hire for Carriages. 83 



Additional Fares : — $ c. 

If the carriage is discharged at a distance 
from the Central Police Station exceed- 
ing 2 miles, but not exceeding 3, there 
must be paid an additional fare of ... 10 
If it is discharged at a distance exceeding 
3 miles, but not exceeding 4, the addi- 
tional fare is ... ... ... 20 

If the carriage is used between the hours 
of 8 p.m. and 5 a.m., half the above fares 
are charged in addition. 

Time Fabes : — 

Any hirer shall be at liberty to engage a 
carriage for a whole day, and to require 
the driver to drive any distance not ex- 
ceeding 10 miles to any place or places 
within a radius of 4 miles from the 
Central Police Station, paying for the 
same ... ... ... ... 1 25* 

No driver shall be required to drive a 
greater distance than 10 miles in any 
one day, or to remain engaged for more 
than 8 hours at a time; and no driver 
shall be entitled to claim as payment for 
any distance driven or any time during 
which he may be detained in one day 
more than ... ... ... ... 1 50* 

For every hour or part of an hour during 
which any carriage may be detained 
beyond the first half hour of detention, 
an additional charge is made of ... 10 

* For 3rd elass carriages, 25 cents les3. 



84 • Handbook to Singapore, 

The fare for jinrickshas is 3 cents per half-mile for 
one passenger for a distance not exceeding 5 miles. At 
night (9 p.m. to 5 a.m.) an extra cent per half-mile may 
be charged . A j inricksha may be hired for one day (i.e. , not 
more than 8 hours, and covering a distance of not more 
than 10 miles) for the maximum charge of 80 cents, 
including charges for detention. An extra charge of 
half the fare is made when there are two passengers. 

Visitors to Singapore are warned against the extor- 
tionate charges made by the gharry-syces. The above 
tables give the legal fares. When a dispute arises, the 
order to drive to the Police Station (Pergi ka rumah 
pasong*) will bring the syce to reason, if his charges are 
exorbitant. Another trick of gharry-syces is to drive to 
their destination by a circuitous route, so as to be able to 
demand legally more than their proper fare. The follow- 
ing tables of distances are appended to enable strangers 
in Singapore to estimate the legal fare payable. f 

Tables of Distances, 

N.B. — The distances in these tables are reckoned 

from the General Post Office, in the heart of the town, 

near which are Johnston's Pier, the Exchange, the 

Singapore Club, the Volunteer Drill Hall and the Master 

Attendant's Office. The mile-stones on the roads mark the 

distance from St. Andre w^s Cathedral. 

I. — Not exceeding half a mile. 
Banks: — 

Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, 

Raffles Place. 
Chartered Mercantile Bank of India, London and 

China, Eaffles Place. 

* Pronounce Piggy ka roomah pah^ong. 

t When asked the amount of their fare Syces generally answer 
Tuan for Mem) puny a suka, i.e., " what Master (or Madam) pleases." 
^"^a wore than the lecfal fare should be given. 



Tables of Distances. 



85 



Hongkong and Shaughai Banking Corporation, 

Collyer Quay. 
New Oriental Banking Corporation, Raffles Place. 



Consulates : — 




Austro-Hungarian 


Battery Road. 


Belgian 


1, Boat Quay. 


Brazilian 


Raffles Place. 


Chinese 


Hill Street. 


Danish 


4, Cecil Street. 


Dutch 


Battery Road. 


German 


Battery Road. 


Russian 


D* Almeida Street. 


Siamese 




Swedish and Norwegian . . . 


Collyer Quay. 


United States of America 


Battery Road. 


Esplanade and Cricket Pavilion. 


Groverument Offices. 




Hotels : — 




Adelphi Hotel 


Coleman Street. 


Hotel de la Paix 


Coleman Street. 


Hotel de rEuroi»e 


Esplanade. 


Magistrates' Courts 


South Bridge Road. 


Police Station (Central) 


South Bridge Road. 


Sailors' Home 


North Bridge Road. 



" Singapore Free Press " Office 20a, Collyer Quay. 
Singapore and Straits Printing 

Office ... ... Robinson Street. 

Singapore and Straits Aerated 

Water Co. ... ... Robinson Street. 

St. Andrew's Cathedral . . . Esplanade. 

*' Straits Times " Office . . . Change Alley, Raffles Place. 

Supreme Court ... ... Corner of High Street and 



86 Handbook to Singapore. 

Distances. — Not exceeding Half-a-mile. — Continued. 

Telegraph Office ... ... Prince Street. 

Town Hall ... ... South end of Esplanade. 

Town Market ... ... CoUyer Quay. 

n. — Exceeding half-a-mile, but not exceeding 

ONE MILE. 

Chinese Protectorate ... South Bridge Road. 

Chubches : — 

Cathedral Church of the 
Good Shepherd (B.C.) Brass Bassa Boad. 

Metho d i s t-E piscopal 

Church ... ... Coleman Street. 

Presbyterian Church . . . Orchard Boad. 

St. Andrew's Mission 
Chapel ... ... Stamford Boad. 

St. Gregoiy's Church 

(Armenian) ... ... Hill Street. 

Convent of the Holy Infant 
Jesus ... ... ... North Bridge Boad. 

Ellenborough Market ... Near New Bridge Boad. 

Hotels : — 

Beach Hotel ... ... Beach Boad, 

Central „ ... ... Stamford Boad. 

Baffles M ... ... Beach Boad. 

Straits „ ... ... Stamford Boad. 

Ladies Lawn Tennis Club ... Orchard Boad. 

LivEBY Stables : — 

H. Abram's Stables ... Brass Bassa Boad. 

F. Clarke & Co. ... Hill Street. 

Maternity Hospital . . . Victoria Street. 

Baffles Library and Museum... Orchard Boad. 

Baffles Institution ... Beach Boad. 

Baffles Girls' School ... Brass Bassa Boad. 

St. Joseph's Institution 
C Brothers* School") ... Bra^a Bassa Boad. 



Table of Distances, 87 

in.— -OvBE One Mile. 

N,B. — To find the distance between any of the 
wharves and any of the following places, add to the 
figures opposite the name of the place the distance between 
the Post Ofl&ce and the particular wharf ; except where 
the name is marked with an asterisk (*), which signifies 
that the place lies either between the wharves and the 
town, or in a different direction. 



Barracks, Fort Canning (Artillery) ... 

Do. Tanglin (Infantry) 
•Borneo Wharf (French and German 

Mail Steamers) 
Botanical Gardens 
Bukit Timah (Police Station) 

Do. (Summit and Bungalow) 

Cemetery (Christian), Bukit Timah 

ixoacL ... ... ... , , . 

Changhi Bungalow 
Clyde Terrace Market 
♦Criminal Prison ... 
Filter Beds, Bukit Timah Road 
Fort Canning — Barracks ... 
French Consulate, River Valley Road 
Gardens (Botanical) 

Do. (Whampoa's) 
Gas Works, Rochore 
General Hospital, Sepoy Lines 
German (Teutonia) Club, Scott's Road 
Golf Links (Race Course) ... 
Government House 

Impounding Reservoir, Thomson Road 
Italian Consulate, River Valley Road 



Mis. 


Fur. 


1 


1 


3 


6 


2 


2 


3 


6 


7 





8 


4 


2 





14 





1 


2 


1 


5 


2 





1 


1 


1 


3 


3 


6 


2 


3 


1 


7 


1 


4 


2 


4 


2 





2 





4 


7 


1 


4 



88 Handbook to Singapore. 

Table of Distances — Over One Mile— Cowhnwerf. 

Mis. Fur. 

Japanese Consulate, 21, Sophia Koad 1 5 

Kranji Police Station and Pier (for 
Johor) 

Livery Stables — Lambert Brothers' ... 
*Lunatic Asylum ... 
*Moimt Faber 
*New Harbour Dock 

Orchard Road Market 

Do. Police Station 

Pauper Hospital (Tan Tock Seng's) 
Serangoon Road 

*P. & O. Wharf or Tduk Blangah ... 

* Pearl's Hill (Army Head Quarters 
Office) 

*Portuguese Consulate, 93, Neil Road 

*Prison (Criminal) Sepoy Lines 

Race Course, Kampong Java Road . . . 

Rifle Range, Balestier, Serangoon 
Road 

Rochore Market ... 

Selitar, Police Station and Bungalow 

Sepoy Lines 

Spanish Consulate, 93, Neil Road . . . 

Tanglin Barracks (Infantry) 

Do. Club, Steven's Road 

TanjongKatong — Hotel and Bungalow 

*Tanjong Pagar Docks and Wharves... 

Tan Tock Seng (Pauper) Hospital . . . 

Teutonia (Q-erman) Club, Scott's Road 

Tyersall (H.H. Sultan of Johor), Napier 
Road 

Water-works — Impounding Reservoir, 
Thomson Road 



14 


U 


1 


3 


2 





2 


5 


3 


3 


1 


5 


2 




2 


7 


2 


5 


1 


5 


1 


4 


1 


5 


2 





3 


2 


I 


6 


9 


I 


1 


o 


1 


4 


3 


6 


2 


4 


5 


4 


1 


3 


2 


7 


2 


4 


4 





4 


7 



Mai ay Names of Places 89 

Mis. Fur. 
Water-works — High Level Reservoir, 

Sophia Hill ... ... 1 6 

* Wharf — Borneo Co.'s (far end of Tau- 

jong Pagar) ... ... 2 2 

* Do. R & O. S. N. Co.'s., Teluk 

Blangah ... ... 2 5 

* Do. Tanjong Pagar .... ... 1 3 



A few of the native sjces know the English names 
of places, but the majority do not. A list of the names 
of the principal buildings and places of interest, in Malay, 
is therefore appended, to aid visitors in finding their way 
about the town and island. 

Adelphi Hotel ... (English Name.) 

Beach Hotel . . . Hotel Tepi Laut. 

Borneo Wharf . . . (English Name.) 

Botanical Gardens ... Kehun Bungah. 

Bukit Timah ... Bukit Tiviah. 

Cathedral Church of the 
Good Shepherd ... Greja Franchis. 

Cemetery (Christian) ... Kuboran Orancj Futeh. 

Central Hotel .. (English Name.) 

Changhi Bungalow .. Kompani punya Bungalow, 

Changhi. 

Chartered Bank of India , 
Australia and China . . . Chartered Bank. 

Chartered Mercantile Bank 
of India, London and 
China ... Mercantile Bank. 

Chinese Protectorate . . . Fikring punya Ofia. 

Convent ... Skola Franchia Ferampttan 

Criminal Prison ... Gaol. 

Esplanade ... Fadanq fieeax. 



90 Handbook to Singapore. 

Fort Canning ... Bukit Bandera or Bukit 

Ttian Bonham, 

Gras Works ... BumahApL Tempai Min- 

yah Oas. 

Q-eneral Hospital ... Hospital or Bumah Orang 

Sakity Sepoy Lines, 

German Club ... Kongsee Orang Jerman. 

Government House . . . Oebenor puny a Bumah* 

Government Offices ... Second Gehenor punya 

Ofis, 
Hongkong and Shanghai 

Banking Corporation . . . Hongkong Bank. 
Hotel de la Paix ... (English Name.) 

Hotel de PEurope ... Punchaua Besar, 

Impounding Reservoir ... Kolam Ayer Besar. 
Kranji ... KranjL 

Ladies Lawn Tennis Club Parang Kechil. 

Livery Stables ... Tuan * punya 

Tempat Kuda. 
Lunatic Asylum ... Bumah Orang Oila, 

Magistrates' and Police 

Courts ... Palis. 

Market ... Pasar, 

Master Attendant's Office, Shahbander punya Ofis or 

Ofis Khlasi. 

Masonic Hall . . . Bumah Hantu, 

Maternity Hospital ... Kompani punya Tempat 

OhaL 

Methodist Episcopal 

Church . . . Greja dekat Bumah Haniu. 

Mount Faber ... Bukit Bandera, Teluk 

Blangah, 

Municipal Offices ... Ofis Chukei Pintu or 

Town Hall. 

* Here insert the name of the proprietor. 



Malay Names of Places, 9 1 

New Harbour Dock ... (English Name) or Pulau 

Hantu, 
New Oriental Banking 

Corporation ... Oriental Bank or Bank 

Lamah' 
Orchard Road . . . Jalan Besar, 

Pauper Hospital ... Bumah MisJcin. 

PearPs Hill (Head Quar- 
ters' Office) ... Bukit Komshariat, 
P. & O. Wharf ... (English Name) or Teluk 

Blangah. 
Police Station ... Bumah Pasong, 

Police Station (Central) Bumah Pasong Besar ^ 

Polls Lama, 
Post Office ... (English Name.) 

Presbyterian Church ... Greja Kechil. 
Race Course ... Tempat Lomhak Kuda, 

Raffles Girls' School ... 8kola Missy, 
Raffles Hotel ... Punchaus Bahru. 

Raffles Institution (Boys' 

School) ... 8kola Besar. 

Raffles Library and 

Museum . . . Tempat (or Bumah) Kitab 

(or Buk) or Tengoh 
Oamher. 
Reservoirs (High Level) Kolam Ayer. 
Rifle Range (Balestier) Temhak Baser. 
St. Andrew's Cathedral Ghreja Besar- 
St. Andrew's Mission 

Chapel . . . Greja Besar puny a Miss ion 

St. Gregory's Church 

(Armenian) ... OrangArmenispunya Greja 

St. Joseph's Institution 

("Brothers' School")... 8kola Franchis Jautaw.. 



92 



Handbook to Singapore, 



Sailors' Home 
Sailors' Rest 
Selitar Bungalow 

Sepoy Lines 
Singapore Club 
Straits Hotel 
Supreme Court 
Tanglin 
Tanjong Pagar 
Telegraph Office 
Town Hall 



... Riunah KhlasL 

... (at) Kreta Ayer. 

. . . Kompani puny a Bungalow ^ 

Selitar, 
... (English Name). 

Do. 

Do. 
... Court Besar. 
. . . Tayujlin, 
... Tanjong Pagar, 
... Telegraph. 
... (English Name). 



Note : — The Malay vowels are pronounced as iu Italian (a = ah 
e =^ ay \ i =^ ee \ -^ oh \ u z= oo ; an =^ ow.) With regard to con- 
sonants (/ is always hard ; J and ch arc pronounced as in 
English. Final n(/ has a slightly nasal sound; s is pronounced 
strongly ; but never like the English z. Final k is not sounded. 
The word kechil ( = " little") is pronounced kitcht/ in Singapore. 

The following words and phrases may be found 
useful : — 

Drive to ... Fergi * ka 

Go on. Drive on ... Jalan, 

Stop ... Berhenti. f 

Turn (Turn the Carriage) P using (Fusing kreta). 



Harness the Horse 
Unharness the Horse . . 
Get ready the Carriage 
Light the lamps 
What is your fare y 
Too much 
Drive to A. B. & Co. . . 



Pakei Kuda. 

Buka Kuda, 

Pasang Kreta, % 

PasangPelita (or Lampo) , 

Berapa 8ewa 1 

Banyak chukup, 

Pergi ka A. B, & Co. 
punya Gedong (or Godown) 



* Pronounce Piggy. 

t Pronounce Brent i. 

X The Portuguese word Carreta. 



^ 



Useful Words and Phrases. 



93 



Come back here in an lionr 
Wait a little 



Balih ka-sini lor/i satu jam 
Nanti sd* huniar (or 
nanti dahnln.^) 



Go fast 


... Jalan lekas. 


Go slow 


... Jalan perlahan'perlaha7i.-^ 


How many miles is 


it to 


Selitar ? 


... Seliiar berapa haUi ? 


Off with you ! 


... Pulang I 


Return to the ship 


... Balih ka kapaJ. 


Policeman 


... Mata-mata. 


Hack-Gharrv 


... Kreta Sen-a. 


Dollar 


... lUn<f(jit. 


Cent 


... Sen, 


Jinricksha 


... Kreia Hongkomj. 


Numerals. 


One 


... Saf)( 


Two 


... Bva 


Three 


... Tifja 


Four 


... Am pat 


Five 


... Lima 


Six 


... Anani 


Seven 


... Tvjoh 


Eight 


. . . Lapan (Bilapan) 


Nine 


... Semhilan 


Ten 


... Sa'puloh 


Eleven 


... Sa'blas 


Twelve, thirteen. Sic. 


... Dua bias, tiya bias, &c. 


Twenty 


... Dua pvloh 


Twenty- one, &c. 


... Dua pidoh mixi, dc. 


Thirty 


. . . Tiija puloh 



• Pronounce Dooioo. 
t Pronounce Flan-plan. 



94 Handbook to Singapore. 

Forty, fifty, &c. ... Ampat puloh, lima 

puloK (&c. 
Hundred ... Ratus, 

100, 200, 300, &c. ... SaWatus, dua raius, tiga 

ratus, (&c. 
795 ... ... Tvjohratua sembilanpuloh 

lima. 
Visitors will do well to buy the " Malay Pronouncing 
Hand-book,'** which contains most of the phrases in 
common use ; they will find it extremely useful during 
their stay in port. 



» Published at " The Singapore and Straits Printing Office," 
Bobinson Street. 



CHAPTER X. 

Steam Communication between Singapore and 

OTHER Ports. 

^^^HE position of Singapore, on the Great Mail 
Route from Europe to the Far East, is a 
favourable one for rapid and direct commu- 
nication with all parts of the world. Its situation amongst 
the hundreds of islands in the Malay Archipelago makes 
it an important centre from which a large fleet of local 
steamers sails in every direction. 

The mail steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental 
Steam Navigation Co., going east and west, touch at 
Singapore fortnightly, as also do the mail steamers of 
the Compagnie des Messageries Maritimes ; and the arri- 
vals of the steamers are so arranged that mails from 
Europe, and mails from America, Japan and China, reach 
Singapore weekly. In addition to these, mails are broughtt 
once a month each way, by steamers of the Norddeutscher 
Lloyd Co. 

Three tables are given below as a guide to steamship 
communication between Singapore and other ports : — 

Table I. is a list of the principal steamship lines, with 
the names of the local agents ; and a letter of the alphabet 
attached for use in Table III. 

Table II. is a list of agents for various local steamers. 
A small letter is attached to these, also for use in 
Table III. 

Table III. is a list of ix)rts, following each of which 
are letters referring to Tables I. and II. 



g6 Handbook to Singapore. 



^&&'^ ^ (5 r^Cf'iyo'a 






H -j J. is M J -=4 E?^ *^ •« ^ 



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1 




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rill 


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it 




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o 


Oullyei 
Prince 
4. Cecil 
1, Boa 

Street 
Cllyer 

Street 
Collyer 






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i 5K 



■< M (a CO S 5 o B (0 d ^ si H 



a ! I S =s 

filial I Sills p^i 

5 8 i'^ll S 1 i 3 1 S 1 -5 =1 t 



98 



Handbook to Singapore. 



saxxarq 



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CO 

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OQ 

o 

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List of Ports, &*c, 99 

Table III. 

List op Ports, with Eeferences to Steamship Lines 

AND Agents. 
The capital letters following the names of ports refer 
to Table I. the small letters to Table II. 

1. Australia — (via Colombo) — Q. 

Other routes— C. F. R. X. Y. 

2. China— ilojiflf/fowflf— A. B. H. I. K. M. N. O. Q. T. Z. 

Shanghai^B.. K. N. Q. Z. 
Amoy* — L. O. 

3. Japan— G. K. Q. T. Z. 

4. India — Calcutta — A. C. F. K. Q. 

Bombay — B. M. Q. 
Madras^C. K. Q. 

5. Burmah — Rangoon vLnd Moulmein — C. 
G. Ceylon— CoZo7w6o—B. H. K. N. O. Q. 

7. Aden— K. N. Q. 

8. Netherlands India — 

Java — Batavia — G. J. K. n. 
Sourabaya — G. p. 
Samai*ang — G. J. p. 
Cheiibon — J. n. 
Sumatra — Acbeen — J. 
Deli — J. O. c. 
Bencoolen — J. 
Palembang — J. g. h. 
Padang — J. 
Dutch Borneo — Bandjermassin — J. ni. p. 

Pontianak — U. b. 
Celebes — Macassar — J. O. p. 
Moluccas — J. O. p. 
Smaller islands and porta : — Billiton — U. b. 

Bawean-^J. m. p. 
Rhio— J.t 



• The usual route to Amoy and Swatow is first Honjs'konvjr, and 
thence by local steamers, 
t Daily service of small Chinese steamers. 



loo Handbook to Singapore. 

Table III. — List op Ports, &c. — continued. 

9. Philippines — Manila — O. V. 
Ilo Ilo—O. 

10. Malay Peninsula (West Coast)— 

Malacca ... n 

Siingei Ujong (Poi*t Dickson) / ^ ^^ 

Selangor (Klang) > C. U. 

Lower PeraJc (Teluk Anson) J 
Perah* (Port Weld)— C. 
Penang — A. B. C. I. M. O. Q. 

Minor Ports — Linggi — U. o. 

Muar — p. 

11. Malay Peninsula (East Coast) — 

Pahang — a. f. p. 
Kuala Pahang ") - 
Kuantan ... > 
Pekan — a. 
Tringganu — 1. 

12. SlAM — Bangkok — O. c. j 

13. French Cochin China — Saigon — K. O. 

14. North Borneo 

Sandakan — O. p. 
Sarawak (Kncliing)— g. 
Kudat *) 
Brunei > O. 
Labuan ) 

15. North America — 

Vancouver {British Columbia) — D. 
San Francisco— P, 
New York — W. 

16. Suez Canal — 

Suez — K. Q. 
Ismailia — Q. 
Pm^t fifaii— H. K. Q. T. 



* rsual route via Penang. 



Ltsi of Ports, &c. tol 



17. European Ports — 
Barcelona — V. 
Br India i — Q. 
Genoa — M. 
Gibraltar — Q. 
Hamburg — G. N. 
Havre — G. 

London— 'B.. O. Q. T. Z. 
Malta — Q. 
Marseilles — K. Q. 
Naples— K. M. Q. 
Trieste^B, 




CHAPTEE XI. 
CuEEENCT, Weights, Measures, Time, Ac. 




Ctjrrenct. 

^N Order by the Queen in Council, dated 21st 
October, 1890, made the silver Mexican 
dollar of the standard weight and millesi- 
mal fineness the standard coin of the Straits Settlements. 
The millesimal fineness of the Mexican dollar is 9027; 
its standard weight 417*74 grains (or 27070 grammes) ; 
and its minimum weight 413*563 grains (or 26*799 
grammes).* 

The coinage of the Colony consists of four silver and 
three copper pieces; the silver coins being — the half- 
dollar (50 cents), and pieces of 20, 10, and 5 cents re- 
spectively in value. The three copper coins are one-cent, 
half-cent, and quarter-cent pieces. 

The Straits silver coinage is legal tender up to $2 ; 
the copper coinage up to Jl. Until recently there was in 
the Colony a large quantity of copper coin in circulation 
imported from neighbouring States— e.^., from Sarawak, 
British North Borneo, Ac, but by an Ordinance of the 
Legislative Council the importation, possession, and circu- 
lation of these coins were prohibited. 

The Banks issue a paper currency of 6-, 10-, 20-, 25-, 
50- and 100-dollar notes. 

• The dollars circulating in the Straits consist chiefly of the 
Mexicans (of 417*5 grains, roughly) and the Japanese Yen (of 416 
grains) ; though quite r^ently the latter has become somewhat 
soarce here, owing to an increased absorption of the coin by Japan. 
The American trade dollar, the Hongkong dollar, and the old Carolus 
or Pillar dollar, are also occasionally met with. The first of these 
usiuJJ^oommanda a flight premium. 



Weights and Measures. 



103 



Weights and Measures. 





A\ 


voirdupois Weight. 


16 Tahil 


• • t 


= ... 1 Kati (1 lb. 4 oz.) 


100 Kati 


• • • 


= ... 1 Pikul 


3 Pikul 


• 
t ff • 


= ... 1 Bhara 


40 Pikul 


• • • 


— ... 1 Koyan 



Opium is weight b j fractions of the Tahil ; thus :- 

10 Hoon ... = ... 1 Chee 
10 Oboe ... = ... 1 Tahil 



OoldsmitKi Weight 

12 Saga ... = ... 1 Maiam 

16 Maiam ... = ... 1 Bungkal (832 grs. Troy) 

12 Bungkal ... = ... 1 Kati. 

'' Eight maiam are equal to the weight of one Mexican 
dollai*. Gold dust is sold bj the bungkal; gold thread by 
the kati." — Swettenham, 



4 Pau 

4 Chupak 
10 Gantang 

2 Para... 
40 Pikul 



Measure of Capacity, 

= ... 1 Chupak (1 quart) 

I. = ... 1 Gantang 

= ... 1 Para 

= ... 1 Pikul 

= ... 1 Koyan 



4 Chupak 
10 Gantang 
10 Kaleh 

5 Kuncha 



Dry Measure. 

= ... 1 Gantang 
= ... I Naleh 
= ... 1 Kuncha 
= ... 1 Koyan 



(160 oz. or 
1 gallon) 



104 



Handbook to Singapore. 



Measukes — continued. 

Long Measure. 
12 Inchi (inches) ... = ... 1 Kaki (foot) 
6 Kaki ... = .. 1 Depa (fathom) 

The English mile is called by the Malays Bata {i.e., Stone.) 



Square Measure. 
4 (Square) Depa ... = ... 1 Jemba (144sq. ft) 
100 Jemba . . = ... 1 Penjuru 

4 Penjuru = ... 1 Relong (about 1 J acre) 



Cloth Measure. 
2 Jengkal . . . = . 1 Hasta 

2 Hasta . = . . 1 Ela (1 yard) 

2 Ela .. = . 1 Depa 

20 Kuyu (i.e., 20 pieces) are called 1 Kodi. 



Time. 
The English method of computing time is adopted in 
Singapore, though the Mahommedaus reckon the day of 
24 hours from sunset to sunset, and keep to their system 
of lunar months. 



The days of 
English. 
Sunday 
Monday 
Tuesday 
Wednesday . . . 
Thursday 
Friday 
Saturday 



the week are as follows 
Colloquial Malay,* 

Hari MinggoJ 

Hari Satu 

Hari Dua 

Hari Tiga 

Hari Ampat 

Hari Lima 

Hari Anam 



Malay. f 
Hari Ahad 
Hari Ithnain 
Hari Thalatha 
Hari Rabu 
Haii Khamis 
Hari Jemaat§ 
Hari Sabtu 



* Used in Singapore commonly. 

t The Malays have borrowed the Arabic names for the days of the 
week — Yaum-ul-ahad, YauM'Ul'ithnain, &c, 

X Minffffo is a corruption of the Portuguese word Domingo. 

§ The Mahommedan Sabbath — from 6 p.m. on Thursday to 6 p.m. 
OD Priday. 



Timet &*€. 



105 



The difference iu mean time between Singapore and 
Greenwich is 6 hours 55 minutes, between Singapore and 
New York, 11 hours 51 minutes. Therefore, at noon in 
Singapore, it is 5*5 a.m. at G-reenwich and 12*9 a.m. in 
New York. Two time balls are in course of erection — the 
one on Fort Canning and the other on Pulau Brani, facing 
Tanjong Pagar Wharf. The observatory is behind the 
Drill Hall. 





CHAPTER XII. 
Impobts, Exports, Shipping, Sen., Singapore. 

INGAPORE being not a terminus, but an 
entrepot of trade, it is to be expected 
that the imports will exceed the exports to 
a considerable extent. In former years the receiving of 
cargo for re-shipment to other ports was one of the chief 
parts of local commerce ; but, though the business done in 
this time is still very large, it is slowly but surely con- 
tracting, owing to the rapid multiplication of through- 
steamers, which touch, but do not break bulk at the port. 
This fact leads some to believe that the town has seen its 
best days ; but others, looking further ahead, see, in the 
mineral and other resources of the Malay Peninsula, 
reason to believe in a great future for the capital of 
the Straits Settlements. As a coaling station, Singapore 
must always hold a position of the first importance in the 
Far East, and the rapid increase of steamships on the 
Eastern seas will enhance its importance. 

The imports for the year 1890, were valued at 
$112,633,960, or nearly seventeen and a half millions 
sterling; and the exports at ^94,131,804, or nearly 
fourteen and a half millions sterling. 

The Appendix to the Straits Settlements Blue Book 

for 1890, gives the following particulars of Imports and 

Exports ; — 

Imports, 

Fi-om the United Kingdom ... §18,676,506 

the British Colonies ... 24,484,083 

Foreign Countries... ... 61,860,800 

„ Penang and Malacca ... 7,604,571 

Total ... $112,633,960 



it 



Exports, Shipping, &c. 107 



Exports. 

To the United Kingdom 
,, the British Colonies... 
„ Foreign Countries 
„ Penang and Malacca 

Total 



§ 18,271,876 

15,444,702 

57,934,596 

2,480,630 

$ 94,131,104 



The largest imports come from the Dutch Indies, 
Siam (and its dependencies), Japan and China; the 
largest exports go to the United Kingdon, Siam (and its 
dependencies), America, Hongkong, France and India. 
The chief exports from Singapore of late years have been 
gambier, tin, sago, pepper, gutta, rattans, tapioca and 
copra. 

From the Appendix to the Blue Book for 1890, are 
also taken the following particulars as to Shipping at the 
port of Singapore during that year. 

Entrances, 

British Ships 2,330 with a gi'oss tonnage of 1,055,583 tons. 
Foreign Ships 1,316 „ „ 1,033,476 „ 

Native Craft 5,546 „ „ 208,689 



Total Vessels 9,192 „ „ 3,197,784 



>» 



a 



Clearances, 

British Ships 2,231 with a gross tonnage of 1,994,635 tons. 
Foreign Ships 1,390 „ „ 961,340 „ 

Native Craft 5,515 „ „ 212,636 „ 



Total Vessels 9,136 3,168,611 



Exclusive of Native Craft, the figures are — 

No. of Vessels. Gross Tonnage. 

Entrances ... 3,646 ... 2,989,059 

Clearances ... 3,621 ... 2,955,975 



CHAPTER XIII. 
The Fauna, Flora, and Geology of Singapore. 




I.— The Fauna of Singapore Island. 

(Abridged from notes kindly supplied by William 
Davison, Esq., Curator of the Raffles Library and 
Musewniy Singapore.) 

'AMMALIA. — Singapore Island is not rich 
in genera, species, or individuals of 
5= Mammalia. The ruminants have 
been almost exterminated within the last few vears; and it 
may be safely asserted that some species of the smaller 
Carnivora, noted as occurring by Dr. Cantor, are not now 
found wild on the island. There are now in Singapore 23 
genera of mammals, comprising 40 species : — 

Quadrumana (monkeys) 2 genera, 3 species, 1. — Semno- 
pithecus obscurus,* found in the jungle, but rare; 2. — Macacus 
cynomolgus {M. carbonarius), the fishing monkey, common 
on wooded banks of streams and in mangrove swamps ; 
S.-^Macacus aureas, the rusty macaque, in the jungle and 
plantations.f 

The Bats have not yet been sufficiently worked out ; two 
fruit-eating, and about 15 insectivorous species are recorded. 
The best known of the former is the so-called " Flying if ox" 
( Tteropus edulis)\ the average adult size being 12 inches long, 

* The Lotong of the Malays. 

t The Pig-tailed monkey {Macacut nemtttrinui — the Bruk 
of the Malays) is often imported by the natives, and trained to olimb 
cocoa'Uut piima to gather the nuts. It is common in the Peninsula. 



Fauna of Singapore Island. 109 

and 4 or 5 feet in expanse.* The other is much smaller 
(Cynopterus marginatus). The Colugo or Flying Lemur 
(Galeopith€cu8 volans) occurs, but rarely, in the jungle. 

Two species of tree-shrews are found — Tupia ferruginea 
and T. javanica ; and one musk-shrew — Sorex fCrociduraJ 
mui'ina, which is distributed over the whole oriental region. 

Carnivora. — ^The largest on the island is the tiger {Felis 
tigris) ; the tigers, much less common than formerly ,t are 
immigrants from the mainland, swimming over the Johor 
Strait to the island. The dislike of leopards to water accounts 
for these animals, common on the mainland, not being found 
in Singapore. 

Two ottersj occur — Lutra barang and Aonyx leptonyx — 
and one civet {Viverricula malaccensls).^ 

Of squirrels there are two species, and possibly a third. || 
There are Sciurus notatus and S, griseimanus. A flying 
squirrel, Sciuropterus, is not uncommon in the jungle. 

The rats and mice of the island are not yet systematically 
worked out. The following are known to occur : — Mas ban- 
dicoota, the giant-rat or bandicoot (rare), M. decumanus, the 
brown rat, M. musculus, the common mouse —all probably 
introduced species. 

The wild-pig {Sua indicus) was once very plentiful, and is 
still common in the jungle and plantations. 

Bumlnantia. — Two species survive — Eusa eqninus, which 
has almost disappeared, and Tragidus Kanchih the lesser 
moose-deer, also rare. 

Agnatic Mammalia, — The dugong or sea-cow (Halicore 
dugong) and a dolphin (probably Delphinvs plumbeus) are 
found in the neighbouring waters ; the latter ascends the 
larger streams for a considerable distance. 

* This bat is often to be seen in the early morning in the 
suburbs, 

t It is said that between 1860 and 1870. more than 50 persons 
were killed by tigers. 

X Called by the Malays Anjing ayer — t.c, water dogs. 

§ The Musang of the Malays : it llau^t^? the roofs and floors of 
the houses. 

It Perhaps Sciurus tenuis. 



no Handbook to Singapore. 

AvES. — The systematic working out of the birds of 
Singapore will, doubtless, add considerably to the number 
of species known to occur. At present 219 species are 
recorded — permanent residents, regular migrants, or 
mere stragglers. 

Baptorea. — Neither diurnal nor nocturnal birds of prey 
are extensively represented in the island. The commonest are 
the white-bellied sea-eagle* {HalicetiiM leucogaater) and the 
maroon-kite (Haliastur indtiM). Less common is the black- 
legged falconet {Microhierax fringillariua). Inhabiting the 
woods, the Besra sparrow-hawk {Accipiter virgatua)^ the 
changeable hawk-eagle (Spizaetus limnaetus), the serpent-eagle 
(Spilornis Butherfordi), the Osprey [Pandion JialicLettis). 
Hume's honey-buzzard (Peniis tweeddalii) has so far been 
found in Singapore only. Two specimens have been captured, 
one of which is now in the British Museum. Of the owls the 
commonest are 8cop8 leinpigi, 8. malayanus^ 8.^ rufescem, and 
Ninox scutata, the Raffles hawk-owl. 

Swallows, swifts and swiftlets (Collocaliaf) are common 
on the island : the crested tree-swift (Maeropteryx lohgU 
pennia) has been known to occur. 

The Malay night-jar {Caprimulgua macrurua) is very 
common, and its monotonous cry may be heard from dusk to 
dawn, especially on moon-light nights. Other night-jars 
occur, but rarely. There are 5 species of bee-eaters, the 
commonest being Merops sumatranus, M. philippiMiM and 
M. sioinhoei. King-fishers abound in all parts of the island ; 
12 species are recorded — 4 of stork -billed king-fishers {Pelar' 
gopsis), 4 of the family Halcyon, 2 of the three-toed king- 
fishers iCeyx) and 2 small blue ones (Aleedo). Four varieties 
of broad-bill have been collected on the island, but they seem 
to have disappeared altogether in recent times.^ 

* See p. 26. 

t These are the hirds that huild edible nests. The nest of one 
species, C. linchi, is not sufficiently pure to be of any economic value. 

{ Two species of hornbills (Bucero* rhinoceroides and Hydrovi*sa 
convexa) are noted as occurring in the island, the former by Diard, 
tbe latter bv Wallace, I have not met with them — W. D, 



Fauna of Singapore Island, 1 1 1 

The long tailed parroquet {Palceorms longicauda) occurs 
occasionally in small flocks, probably as partial migi^ants from 
the mainland. The Malayan pan*ot {Psittacus incerttis) is 
occasionally seen, most probably a migi*ant. The Malayan 
loriquet (Loriciilus galgulus) is not uncommon about planta- 
tions and other suitable localities. "* 14 species of wood- 
peckers are recorded, 6 species of barbets, and 6 species 
of true cuckoos. To these must be added a few aberrant 
members of the Cuculidce, not parasitical, but building their 
own nests and rearing their own young. This family 
includes the so-called crow-pheasants or coucols, of which 
four species are known to occur in the island. The sun 
birds are very numerous, both in species and individuals. 
Some of them lival in the brilliancy of their plumage the 
humming-birds of the New World. The flower-peckers are a 
group of small birds, many of them brilliantly coloured, the 
plumage having generally a metallic gloss ; two species are 
found in Singapore. Four true shrikes occur ; they are all 
migratoryf the most common being the brown shrike {Lanius 
cn8tatu8)X and the thick billed- shrikes {L. viagnirostHs). Two 
species of cuckoo- shrikes are recorded ; and four species of 
rainivets, which though common on the Peninsula, are rare on 
the island. 

The crow-billed drongo [Dicnirus annectans) occurs, 
and also the beautiful racket-tailed drougo {Disseinururus 
paradiseus) is still not uncommon in the better wooded 
portions of the island. It has a wonderful variety of notes, 
and has the power of imitating the notes of other birds and 
animals. The bronzed drongo {Chaptia cenea) is not numer- 
ous, but a few occur in the jungle. The allied paradise 
flycatcher (Terpsiphone affinis) is found on the island, but 
rarely. 



* A favourite cage bird with the Malays. 

t The Eastern shrikes do not. like the European varieties, store 
their prey by impaling it on thorns This may be due to the plenti- 
ful supply of food. 

J L. Supereiliosua is the adult of L. Crisfatvs. 



112 Handbook to Singapore, 

The above notes on the birds are necessarily very brief 
and incomplete, a mere catalogue of the names of the great 
variety of Singapore birds would occupy more space than is 
here available. 

Reptilia. — Snakes. — The following is a table of the 
Snakes of Singapore.* The non- venomous snakes include 
all the burrowing, fresh- water, and many of the ground 
and tree snakes. Though a large number of venomous 
snakes occur in the island there is no authentic record of 
any one having been bitten with fatal results. 

Non-Venomous Snakes, 

Name. Average Length. 

The Python (Python 
reticulatu8)f ... ... 12 to 1-i feet. Not common. 

Curtus' Python {Python 

curtus) ... ... ... ♦> i. Rare. 

Swamp Snake (Dipsaa den- 

drophila)... ... t» ,» Common. 

Rat Snake {Ptya^i korros) 7 ,. Not common. . 

Green Grass Snakt* 

[Tragops prasimts) ... 7 to f» „ Common. 

Painted Tree Snake 
(Dendrophis pida) ^J ., Not uncommon. 

Bronzed Tree Snake {D. 
caudolineata) ... ... t to .■> ,. Ran*. 

Spotted Tree Snake {Chry- 

soploea ornata) ... .. 3 ., Not uncommon. 

Variable Ground Snake - 

(Lycodonaulicu8)X .'5 to 4 ,, Very rare. 

Pond Snake (Tropidonotus 

quincunciatus)^ . . . ... 3 „ Not common. 



* A full aud detailed account of these is to be found in the 
Singapore and Straits Directory, also from the pen of Mr. Davison. 

t Often, but erroneously, called the Boa-constrictor. The Malay 
name is Ular Sawah. A specimen 22 feet long is in the Museum. 

X This snake and the preceding are very variable species ; G 
well-defined varieties of the former and 7 of the latter are known. 

§ To thi.H list .'should be added the Simote« octolineatKt, a 
specimen of which the writer kiWed ne^t \Vv% Giw\iifeTsa. 



Fauna of Singapore Island. 



"3 



4 to 5 feet. Common. 
9 to 10 ,, Rare. 



3 to 4 




Rare. 


3 




Not uncommon. 


2 




Rare. 


2J 




Very rare. 


3 




Fairly common. 


2i 




Rather rare. 



Venomous Snakes. 

The Black Cobra (Naja 
sputatrix)* . . . 

The Hamadryad (Ophi- 
ophagua elapajf 

Banded Bungarus {B. 
fasciatus) 

Red-headed Callophis (C. 
hivirgatus) 

Brown-headed Callophis (C, 
intestinalis) 

Slender Callophis (C gracilis) 

Banded Pit Viper {Tri- 
meresurus wagleri) 

Green Pit Viper (T. Gra- 
mineus) 

Purple Pit Viper (T. Pur- 
pureus) 2J „ Rare. 

Hydrophidce (Sea Snakes). 

Banded Sea Snake {Hydro- 
phis stohesii) ... ... 5 feet. Very common. 

Many other snakes occur in the seas round Singapore, 
but they are less common than Stohesii. They are all 
venomous. 

The common Indian Toad {Bufo melanostictus) is abund- 
ant. Of Frogs, a considerable number both of terrestrial and 
arboreal species occur ; but the only ones calling for special 
attention are Bana imlchraX (a species said to have been in- 
troduced from Malacca, and which has multiplied to such 
an extent as to become a plague) and B. laticeps a very 
large species, measuring, in length of body over 6 in. 
and across the head nearly 4 in. The hind legs are 9 in. 

long' 

* Malay name Ular sendok^i.e., spoon snake. 

t The most deadly of the Singapore snakes. It is very fierce 
and aggressive. Specimens over 14 feet in length have been 
obtained. 

{ Popularly called the bull-frog in Singapore. Its booming 
is heard all over the island after rain. 



1 14 Handbook to Singapore. 

The Crocodile* (Crocodilus pm-osus) is common in 
the creeks and mangrove swamps. Many other lizards 
occur, among which may be noted the large water-lizardf 
(Hydrosaurus salvator) attaining a length of 6 or 7 feet, 
the green lizard {Bronchocela cristatellaX the two flying 
lizards, Draco volana and D. blanfordi. Skinks (Sdncidce) 
are very numerous. Geckos are also numerous, and several 
species occur ; those inhabiting buildings are of small 
size, but some found in the forest (as G. stentor and 6r. 
guttatus) attain a considerable size. The edible turtle 
{Chelonia virgata) is abundant ; the great leathery turtle 
(Dermatochelya coriacea) has been obtained : the hawk's- 
bill turtle {Caretta squamata), which yields the best 
tortoise-shell, is also found. River turtle and land tortoises 
occur, but do not appear to be numerous. 

Insects. — Insects of all kinds abound in Singapore. 
About 200 species of Butterflies occur, the most con- 
spicuous being the Ornithopteras. The Moths are more 
numerous still. 

Four species of tme silk worm moths occur ; the 
most common is the large Attacns atlas, the expanse of 
the wing in the female being 9J inches or more. "Wasps 
and hornets are very numerous ; one of the most common 
and conspicuous being Vespa cincta, which builds a huge 
nest of mud, the walls being very thin, but bearing 
without injury the violence of tropical showers. Flies are 
abundant, and some, like Stilhum splendidunif very beautiful. 
Beetles are numerous, and some species, like BhyncophortLa 
and XylotrupeSy do great damage by attacking the cocoa-nut 
palms. There are three species of honey-bees, and four 
of carpenter-beesj (Xylocarpa). Ants are numerous in 



* Commonly, but erroneously, called the Alligator. 

t Usually called the I|?uana or, more properly, the Monitor. 
Its flesh is tender and delicate, and much prized by the Malays. 

X These do considerable damage by boring into the woodwork of 
houses. 



Fauna of Singapore Island. 115 

varieties and individuals. The caringa or red ant gives a 
painful sting when touched. Tennites* (so called white 
ants) abound everywhere, and do a great deal of damage to 
property. 

Spiders abound everywhere in Singapore, the most 
conspicuous being the large garden spiders. A huge 
black nocturnal spider also occurs. Centipedes are not 
uncommon, though they seldom invade dwellings ; the 
large black and red Scolopendrce sometimes attain 9 in. 
in length. The large black scorpion is fairly common, 
and several smaller species occur, one of which, a small 
pale green one, is not unfrequently found in houses, in damp 
places, such as bath-rooms, &c. 

Fish. — The seas around Singapore contain a great 
variety of fish of many wonderful forms and colours. 
Large quantities are daily brought into the markets. 
Several species of sharks occur ; the spotted shark 
{Stegostoma tigrina) and two others, Carcharias acutidena and 
C. macloH, are perhaps the most common. The hammer- 
headed shark (Zygcena malleus) is also found. Two, and pro- 
bably three, species of sword-fish occur — Histiophorus gladituf 
and H. immaculatu8. Two species of saw-fish J are found, 
Pristis perotteti and P. zysron. The gai*fish§ found in these 
waters are of two forms — Belone (5 species at least) and 
Hemiramphus {%• species). In the skates there is a great 
diversity of form and size. Some of the species, from the 
spines with which the tail is armed, are able to inflict painful 
and serious wounds. The ox- skate or sea devil {Bicerdbatia 



* It is hardly necessary to mention that the Termites are not 
ants proper ; they belong to the order Neuroptera while the ants 
belonging to the order Hymenoptera. 

t The Ikan todak of Malay legend. 

X The saws of these fish are usually brought for sale by natives 
to the steamers in port. 

§ See p. 25. The force with which the garfish propel themselves 
out of the water is very great. It is said that men have been killed 
in open boats by a blow from garfish skipping over the sea, 



Ii6 Handbook to Singapore. 

eregoodoo) is 20 feet in expanse. The commonest of the skates 
in the Singapore seas are Rhynocobatus anchylostomus and 
Bhinohatus thounii. The Baracootu. {Sphyrcena catnmersoni) 
deserves special mention here. The jaws of this fish are 
armed with a double row of teeth with sharp cutting edges. 
The natives greatly dread it, as it attacks people without 
hesitation, inflicting serious wounds. Its length is about 4 
feet. Of prawns and crayfish several species occui*; the 
crayfish growing to a vary large size (often to more than a 
foot in length). Both shore and sea crabs are abundant in 
numbers and in varieties. 

II. — The Flora op Singapore Island. 

(By H. N. BiDLET, Esq., p.l.s., Director of Forests and 
Gardens.) 

One of the first things that strikes a visitor is the 
richness and variety of the tints of the foliage. Each 
tree seems to be different from the one next to it ; and. 
indeed, the number of different kinds is very large in 
comparison with that of a more temperate region. 

As there are no seasons here, the heat and dampness 
of the climate causes continual growth, so that the greater 
part of the flora consists of evergreen trees and shiiibs. 
Some few trees sheds all their leaves at one time, and after 
remaining leafless for one or two days, are speedily 
clothed again with young leaves — often of brilliant red or 
pink tints — which very soon assume their green colour. 
The larger number of trees, however, shed and renew their 
leaves continuously throughout the year, and are therefore 
evergreens. 

The apparent scantiness of flowers here has often been 
noticed. This is due to several causes — one of which is 
that the greater proportion of the flowers are small, and 
concealed in the wealth of foliage ; and even when they are 



Flora of Singapore Island, 117 

large and abundant they are often placed so high upon the 
trees that they are invisible from below. Many plants, 
again, though producing during the year large quantities 
of blossoms, bear so few at a time that they are never 
conspicuous. Lastly, owing to heat and moisture the 
flowers are very short lived — many lasting only for a few 
hours in the early morning. 

At one time the whole island of Singapore was densely 
wooded, but, through cultivation, much of the primaeval 
jungle has been destroyed. The best accesible example 
of primitive forest is to be found on the hiU, Bukit Timah, 
seven miles from town : 

Here may be seen many lofty trees of the order Diptero- 
carpecBj with sti'aight smooth stems rising unbranched for 
ninety feet or more. They supply the valuable timbers 
known as Serayah and Mei*anti, and also exude a resin known 
as Dammar which is expoi*ted from Singapore for making 
varnish. Most kinds flower once in five or six years, the 
flowers are often large and sweet-scented, and are followed by 
the curious red two-winged fiiiit, from which the order takes 
its name. Another remarkable tree of the same shape is the 
Gumpas (Cumpassia malaccensis), the wood of which is too hard 
to cut, so that it may often be seen standing alone in culti- 
vated land having escaped through its hardness the axe of 
the planter. Sometimes one may pick up in the woods the 
lai'ge fruit of the Woody Durian-tree (Neeaia)^ a bluish gi*ey, 
smooth or wai'ty pod, which splits half way down into four 
or five lobes, disclosing a number of small red seeds suiTOund- 
ed by irritating yellow hairs. Oaks, chestnuts, figs, tree-myrtles 
(Eugenia), ebonies, and innumei*able other trees go to make 
up the tree-flora of these jungles. Of the smaller shrubs, 
veiy showy are the orange flowered Ixoras ; Randia inacro- 
phylla, with great white trumpets spotted inside with black ; 
Ardisiast with pink flowers and scarlet berries (callad by the 
natives " Mouse-deer's eyes ") ; Wormia, a big shrub with 
lai'ge yellow flowers, and very many less conspicuous plants. 



ti8 Handbook to Singapore, 

Innumerable climbing plants ascend to the top of the trees, 
and most important among them are the climbing palms 
known as I'attans (Calamus), The biggest is Plectocomia, 
with a strong stem about four inches in diameter, covered 
with sharp spines. It may be seen towering fai* above the 
forest. The flowers are arranged in long brown hanging 
tails about 10 feet in length, and when the fruit is ripe the 
whole plant dies. Other climbers are the strychnine plant 
(Strychnos Tieute), with deep green leaves, and cui'ious round 
ball-like fruit of a greyish green colour. GavibirSf Bauhinias, 
Menispei*macious plants, one of which, Fibraureay produces 
from its stem a good yellow dye, a Stephanotis, many 
climbing apocynaceous plants, with white or rosy flowers, 
often scented, among which are the WillughheiaSf from which 
is obtained the gutta-giip, a valuable kind of India-rubber, 
jasmines, wax plants {Hoya) and many othera. The 
pitcher plants {Nepenthes) of which there are five kinds in 
Singapore are also climbers. All are common and generally 
to be found in damp open places. It may be as well to 
remind visitors that the cups are portions of the leaves 
modified beautifully as insect traps, and are not the flowei's, 
which are small purple or green blooms arranged in thick 
spikes. 

In damp and rocky spots a great many cui'ious and 
beautiful herbaceous plants can be found — gingers {A mo mum), 
with tall leafy stems and tufts of scarlet, pink or white 
flowers almost hidden in the ground ; Globbas, with nodding 
spikes of white or orange flowers in shape like some strange 
insect; Avoids, with heart-shaped, or arrow-shaped leaves, small 
ground-orchids, of which the Anoectochili, with their ovate, 
deep pui'ple leaves, veined with gold ; and Plocoglottis, with 
large lanceolate leaves looking when seen against the sun- 
light like patches of purple stained-glass, are the most 
attractive. 

F£RNS are very plentiful in Singapore and range 
from tall tree ferns (Alsophila), Angiopteris, the Elephant 



Flora of Singapore Island, 119 

fern, with its short round stem and huge twelve foot- 
fronds, and the great birds* nest fern (Thamnopteris 
nidus-avis) to tiny polypodies and filmy ferns : 

Well worthy of notice, are the elks' hoi-ns {Platy cerium), 
the water fern (Ceratopterls) growing in the ditches, the 
climbing Lygodiums, Dipteris Horsfieldii growing in masses 
on rocky banks near the sea; the bracken-like Gleichenias 
and the elegant Davallias. Selaginellas too are very abundant 
and varied; and there are sevei'al kinds of Club-moss 
(Lycopodium)t some of which hang from the trees ; but the 
commonest is L. c&rnuum, growing abundantly in the open 
grassy spots, and often collected for house decoration. 

Orchids are abundant in Singapore, but chiefly grow 
in the mangrove* swamps. Many have inconspicuous 
flowers, but there are some of the orchid lovers' greatest 
favourites : 

The commonest is the well-known Pigeon orchid 
(Dendrohum crumenatum), clothing the trees even in the 
town of Singapore. D. Dalhousieanum, with its great cream 
and maroon flowers, finest of all Dendrobes, has been met 
with in the jungles, but is very rai-e. Erias with spikes of 
small white flowers ; the Leopard orchid, Grammatophyllum, 
biggest of all orchids, with its gi*eat i*acemes, eight feet high, 
of yellow and brown flowers; Saccolahium giganteum, with 
thick spikes of pink-spotted white blossoms ; cmious Cirrho- 
petala, with strangely moving lips ; Cymbidium aloifolium, with 
long narrow leaves and pendulous racemes of brown and 
purple flowers, are among the flnest of the tree orchids. Of 
groimd-orchids, none are more likely to attiuct attention than 
the beautiful pink Spathoglottis plicaia and Bromheadia 
palustrisy with large white yellow and violet flowers, both of 
which grow in grassy open places, and are constantly in 
flower, while the lovely apricot-coloured Calanthe curculi^ 
yoides may reward the orchid hunter who dives into the dense 
wet thickets in November. 



120 Handbook to Singapore. 

Besides orchids many other plants grow upon the 
trees, being epiphytic : 

Very i-ai-e is the splendid crimson Rhododendron, high 
up out of reach on the highest trees. The ants' nest plant, 
Hydnophytunif is a curious epiphyte, the base of the stem 
is swollen into a fleshy mass often as big as a man's head, 
which when cut open is seen to be a real vegetable ant*s nest 
swarming with minute, but ferocious ants. Dischidia 
Bafflesiana, the bladder plant, is remarkable for its leaves 
modified into strange yellow conical bladders. 

There are many kinds of Palms, of which may be 
specially mentioned the ^ealing-wax palm (Cyrtostachys) 
with its bright red stems; the Corintin (Drymophlceus 
Singaporianus), with feathery leaves and slender black 
stems from which elegant walking sticks can be made ; the 
thorny-stemmed Nibong (Oncosperma tigillaria), much 
used for house building, and the Penang Lawyers 
(Licuala). Another useful group of plants is that of the 
Screw pines or Pan dans, of which four or five kinds inhabit 
damp spots, the biggest is the Mengkuang (Pandanus 
furcatus), the long narrow leaves of which are much used 
for making Kajanga,* baskets, hats and innumerable 
other things. 

The number of grasses and sedges is rather small, as 
these are not plentiful in jungle-country, but one kind is 
too conspicuous by its presence. The Lalang grass 
(Imperata cylindrica) covers great tracts of country, rapidly 
springing up wherever the forest has been cleared. It 
is almost useless for any purpose and, when it has taken 
hold of the ground, is with difficulty eradicated. 

A large portion of the shores of the island are covered 
with Mangrove swamps ; and the peculiarities of this class 

*The Kajang is '*a most useful contrivance used for boat or 

cart coverings. It folds up, and in the jungle answers the purpose 
of a tent." — Swettenham, 



Flora of Singapore Island, 121 

of vegetation can well be studied here. The trees which 
compose it though haying at first sight a great similarity 
belong to several different groups. The true Mangrove 
trees, Bhizophora and Bruguiera^ are remarkable for the 
seed germinating while still on the tree, and sending 
down a long green cigar-shaped root. Mangrove-wood is 
much used for firewood, and the bark supplies tanning 
material. In these swamps grow, also, the Nireh-tree 
(Carapa), conspicuous from its large brown cannon- 
ball like fruits. The bark of this tree is a valuable 
medicine for dysentery. 

Many and varied are the cultivated plants to be seen 
in the gardens in Singapore, and among the most striking 
are the scarlet-flowered Flame of the Forest (Poinciana)^ 
the AUamandas from Brazil with their large yellow blos- 
soms, and the quaint Eavenala from Madagascar, the 
Traveller*s-tree, often erroneously taken for a palm. It is 
really an ally of the Banana, as the shape and texture of 
its leaves show at once ; it has the appearance of a gigantic 
fan, and derives its English name, from the fact that by 
piercing the base of the leaf -stalk a supply of water can be 
often obtained. The beverage, however, is hardly to be 
recommended. 

Of the numerous fruits of this region, two especially 
are famous, the Durian and the Mangosteen. It is worth a 
voyage to the East, says Wallace, to eat the Durian, and it 
is certain that it is not worth eating anywhere else. In 
appearance it suggests a large oval light brown horse 
chestnut. The tough rind covered with thorns, splits 
into several lobes, when ripe, and discloses a variable 
number of large oblong seeds enclosed in a creamy pulp, 
which is the eatable portion. Many persons are deterred 
from trying the flavour on account of the disagreeable 
odour of the rind, but no sooner is the mouth filled with 



t2± Handbook to Singapore. 

the deliciouBlj flavoured pulp than all sense of the smell 
disappears. Wallace, in his well-known work on the 
Malay Archipelago, has endeavoured to describe the 
flavour of this fruit, but indeed it cannot be described, 
it must be tasted to be appreciated. 6j a judge of fruit 
the Durian will be allowed to take a position in the front 
rank as one of the flrst-class fruits of the world. 

The Mangoateen is, however, more generally popular 
with Europeans, and is certainly a most beautiful and 
refreshing fruit. It is about the size of a moderate-sized 
apple, round, with a flat top on which is the star-shaped 
stigma. In colour it is of a deep maroon or black crimson, 
and when broken across is seen to consist of a variable 
number of pulpy white pips, each enclosing a seed, 
arranged in a circle and enveloped in the thick pink rind. 
The pulp is very sweet and delicately flavoured, the 
flavour being much improved by putting the fruit in ice 
for a few hours before eating. 

Both the Durian and Mangosteen have distinct 
though somewhat irregular fruiting periods and as their 
seasons differ in different parts of the Peninsula, it happens 
often that the fruits can be obtained almost all through 
the year. 

These notes on the flora serve but to give an 
indication of the wealth and variety of the vegetation. 
Few regions contain so large a proportion of interesting 
plants as that of the Malayan Peninsula ; and the 
study of botany here will well repay its votary. 

III. — Geolooical Fbatubes. 

The Geology of Singapore is very disappointing to 
the student. The island consists of a core of grey granite 
cropping out in the bigger hills, as at Bukit Timah, but 
the greater portion is covered with stiff yellow and red 



Geological I^eatures, 1^3 

clays, sands, gravels, and iron stone commonly, but 
erroneously, called laterite. This formation is evidently 
derived from destruction of loftier granitic hills, and 
extends, also, over a large portion of the Peninsula. It is 
almost entirely destitute of fossils (a few plant remains 
alone having been met with), and it is impossible at 
present to conjecture its age. 




\ 




CHAPTER XIV. 
Climate, Monsoons, <&c. 

vENGAPORE is unusually favoured in the 
matter of climate. Situated close to the 
Equator, it nevertheless enjoys climatic 
advantages not shared by other places in the same 
latitude. The abundant rainfall (the average is over 
90 inches annually) tempers the fierce heat of the Tropics; 
and violent storms are unknown. There is no change of 
seasons; the island boasts an eternal summer, and is 
clothed with a perennial green. The thermometer (in the 
shade) ranges between 80° and 90° (Fahr.) during the day, 
and between 70° and 80° at night : it has never been known 
to rise above 94° or to fall below 63°. .The mornings are 
generally fresh and cool ; and after sunset light breezes 
come from the sea to cool the air. The sheltered position 
of Singapore secures for it these advantages, and others 
alluded to in Chapter I. (See p. 1.) 

Though there is no marked change of seasons, yet the 
influence of the monsoons, or trade winds, is felt in 
Singapore. The change of the monsoon is accompanied 
by heavy and prolonged rains ; but since rain falls all the 
year round, a slight increase in the fall at particular periods 
is hardly noticeable. The North-east Monsoon blows 
from November to April, during which time the Singapore 
winds usually sit in that quarter ; but by no means in- 
variably. The South-west Monsoon blows from May to 
October, and with it come the winds known locally as 
Sumatras and Java winds. The Sumatra is a rapid squall 
from the south or south-west, accompanied by heavy rain 



Climate, Monsoons ^ Grc. 125 

and generally thunder. It sweeps swiftly across the Strait 
and the island, and rarely lasts more than an hour or two. 
On reaching the land, it hardly lasts so long. The Sumatras 
spring up towards evening, or during the night ; they are 
the most violent winds that visit Singapore ; but they are 
mild compared with the gales that periodically sweep over 
the British Isles from the Atlantic. Occasionally very 
heavy rain-storms visit Singapore. On the 29th of May, 
1892, in the short space of six hours, the rain-gauges 
registered a fall of nearly nine inches. A great part of 
the town and island was flooded ; in some of the public 
thoroughfares the depth of water for some hours ranged 
from 18 inches to 4 feet. 

The Java winds blow from the south or south-east 
from May to September. They are generally supposed to 
be unhealthy ; but though fever is commoner from May to 
September than during the rest of the year, it is not certain 
that this is due to the prevalence of these winds. The 
effect of the Java wind is first a pleasant sensation of cool- 
ness, and then a hot, disagreeable feeling of ** stickiness '* 
all over the body. Passing from a shady place to the open, 
where the Java wind blows, people feel sometimes as if 
they were approaching the blast of a furnace ; the air is 
stifling. It may be doubted whether the ill-effects of these 
winds go further than the unpleasant sensation above 
described. 

The day is practically of uniform length throughout 
the year — twelve hours of day-light. The sun rises about 
6 a.m., and sets about 6 p.m. ; with a few minutes* variation 
during the year as it passes from the tropic of Cancer to 
the tropic of Capriconi and back. Darkness falls rapidly 
after the sun disappears below the horizon, with almost no 
intermediate twilight. The heat is greatest during the 
early afternoon ; but by 4.30 p.m., the sun is far down and 



126 Handbook to Singapore. 

the air cool enough to admit of out-door recreation. The 
earlji morning, imtil an hour after sun rise (i.e. till 7 a.m.) 
is fresh and cool, and is the best time of day for walking, 
riding or shooting. The heavy dew that falls diuring the 
night, howeyer, prevents out-door sports such as tennis or 
cricket in the morning. 

All things considered, Singapore is one of the healthiest 
places in tropical latitudes. Cholera, the scourge of the 
East, is almost unknown, owing to the abundant rainfall ; 
and dysentery is rare. The annual death rate is estimated at 
47*1 per thousand. The chief disadvantage of the climate 
to Europeans and others accustomed to change of seasons 
is the absence of any such change in Singapore ; the effect 
of the eternal summer is somewhat relaxing and enervating 
to those who have come from temperate regions. 




Annual Abstract of Rainfall, &c. 



■HJtioqtsnin^j 


|Kp^f|'SS|2?-i 








% -paja^siSaa lox Si 


Si 




■itiH -fpon 




1 


1 


-araio eraiOH 


laches. 

19-33 

8-49 
7-58 
8-71 
2-94 
7-42 
21-88 
10-62 
7-49 
914 


■Euap 


IlilililsiS^^ 


s 


■piTBISI 


jliSliilpip 


■ntiSiTB.T, 


|ipifipli!| 


-dnicqi'jiOAraB 


10-18 
1403 
10-90 
1138 
6-80 
6-40 
17-70 
7-99 
8-22 
10-50 
15 85 
1212 


s 


•pBoa 
Booaowag 'pi 

-idsOH JBdnBJ 




i 

i 


■JjojBAjasqo 
midsoH Mq 
-MX aaopmix 




-sam-j 
-idBOH Twanao 


12-57 
905 
6-82 
4-26 
4-87 
513 

1768 
8-05 
7-02 
8-46 
7-35 
6-28 


3 


-jnoqjBH 
«3N 'loJsCT 
a.'oo -0 V a. 


|°SSi.ST3-'31«!33-' ION 


S3 


-BHiKOH - 


January 
February ... 

April 
May 
June 
July 

August 
September ... 
Outober ... 
November .. 
December ... 


3 
e3 


3 



•. 


.aaa ii 


-IS- 


aa*«N«t,-^t,«„U) 


-ar 


1 




--a 


ssilsHpilll 


|i 


1 

IS 


i 


S-i- 


SSS8SSSSSS3SS 


S 


l^i 


s 


Si 

II 






m 

a 
s 

5 
3 


"0 


fSSiSEESSEggS 


s 


■ang 


fiiiiiiiisiii 

--. A M> 5r«»ai> - « T» M - 


i 

i 


■HTK 




■HBK 


fsssssssssssSs 


1 


^■^1 


ttB3K+ 


fllEHiSEl.lKfc 


E 


r^ 


■HI! 


fllfcOfeSfcgtSS 


K 


■H9t 


filslisiiiiii 


S 


f.^ 


■H6 


?4ssS3sssiiss 


s 


jr 

5« 


if. 

S:So 


i 


^g 




a 


siiiiifiiiiii 


^ 


1! 


a 


ssSgigSilsSli 


i 


-?i 


«" 

3 


a 


3|i5|iiiii|ii 


s 


1 


,.x. 


OH 


llllllllllll 


Ji 




CHAPTER XV. 
The Ma.lay Language and Literature. 



HE Malay Language, often called the Italian of 
the East, on account of its broad vowels and 
soft consonants, is, in its many dialects, one of 
the most widely spoken Asiatic tongues. Thronghoufc the 
Malay Peninsula and Archipelago, in parts of Siam, and 
even in such remote places as Formosa, Madagascar and 
Cape Colony, varieties of the language are to be found. Its 
origin is obscure, and will probably remain so, until the 
origin of the Malay people is discovered. The Malays them- 
selves consider Sumatra as the cradle of their race ; but this 
means no more than that thev found themselves in 
Sumatra when the self- cod sciousness of the race emerged 
from the infancy of barbarism. Philologists have diffi- 
culty in classifying the language. Attempts have 
been made to affiliate it to the monosyllabic languages of 
China, Annam, and Siam ; and no doubt there is a con- 
siderable Mongolian element in Malay, though there is a 
large admixture of other elements. The use of numeral 
co-efficients to express the phi ral is unquestionably Mongo- 
lian in origin. For example, the Malays say — Perampuan 
iiga oratig (woman three person) for three women ; kuda 
lima ehor (horse five tail) for five horses ; Telor sa* puloh 
biji (egg ten fruit) for ten eggs; c/., the concession to 
Chinese idiom in Pidgin Euglish " Three piecee man" for 
three men. The question whether all languages were not 
originally monosyllabic is one that divides philologists, 
but at any rate Malay, notwithstanding the Mongolian 



130 Handbook to Singapore. 

element, is no^v dissyllalnc ; and in regard to accent, 
trochaic. This, in connection with its broad vowels and 
soft consonants, is the secret of its musical sound. 

Not only is the ear charmed bv the music and 
rhythm of the spoken tongue, but the mind is also 
delighted by the simple and graceful forms of .speech, ex- 
pressing highly poetical ideas, which are often on the lips of a 
people not conspicuously romantic or imaginative. Many of 
the common words and phrases of ordinary life are, from a 
western point of view, highly poetical, owing to the child- 
like, but artistic combination of ide:is that are not natu- 
rally connected. The Malay, for example, calls the sun 
Mata-hari, '' the eye of day :" he speaks of a brook as anaJc 
snngei, "the son of a river;" when he is sorrowful or 
angry he says he is sakit hati, '* sick at heart.** An 
ecHpse of the sun or moon he regards as a tempoi'ary 
illness of these bodies — mkit mata-hari, sakit bidan. Such 
idiomatic and poetical expressions form one of the chief 
characteristics of iho language. 

Malay, as spolceu in the Straits Settlements, in the 
Peninsula, and in many of the islands in the Archipelago, 
has been greatly modified, and its vocabulary has been 
largely enriched by the influence of foreign languages. 
The Hindu conquest of Malaya, many centuries ago, 
imported Sanskrit words and ideas into the language. 
(The introduction to W. E. Maxwell's ** Manual of the 
Malay Language" gives a careful and scholarly account of 
the nature and extent of Sanscrit influence.) In the 
thirteenth century r^ame the Mahommedan supremacy, 
during which the most of the Malays embraced Islam ; 
and consequently borrowed largely from the Arabic 
language to supply deficiencies in their own. Later still, 
European influence made itself appai^ent, — Portuguese, 
Putch and English words being freely adopted to express 



Malay Language and Lite ratine, 131 

ideas iutroduced by the foreigners. In Singapore the 
Malay colloquial is a hybrid language . few of the great 
languages of the world are unrepreseuted in its v»Kabulary. 
Tie purest Malay is spoken in Per.ilc. rhe most northern 
of the Native States under British Protection. 

Malay is free from inflections, am], like most primi- 
tive languages, poor in connectives. The juxtaposition 
of two words is generally enough to imply their connec- 
tion. The verb is simple compared with the elaborate 
conjugations of the perfect classical languages of the East 
and West, Arabic and Greek ; it is not <leclined at all; its 
tenses are expressed by means of auxiliaries, and its modes 
by prefixes. Number is indicated by numerals, with or 
without numeral co-efficients ; sometimes (indefinitely) by 
re-duplication : gender, by the addition of the word 
** male " or " female," and that only when distinction 
of sex is required by the context ; and case is not indicated 
at all, except, perhaps, by the position of the word in the 
sentence.* The best Malay Grammar and Dictionary (by 
the late Dr. Marsdenf) are now out of print. Copies may 
be bought occasionally, but at a prohibitive price. Messrs. 
W. E. Maxwell, the present Colonial Secretary of the 
Straits Settlements, and F. A. Swettenham, British 
Resident of Perak, have both published works 
which give a fair introduction to the spoken language ; 



* Malay has been called ** a most ungrammatical but most idio- 
matic langiiage." This is true if inflections only constitute grammar. 
An ungrammatical language is one without laws either of syntax or 
of idiom ; and that Malay certainly is not. 

tDr. Marsden was a contemporary of Sir Stamford Raffles; his 
Grammar and Dictionary were published in 1812, and deal with the 
language as he knew it in Sumatra. The Peninsular Malay differs 
considerably from the Sumatran ; but Marsden's works might be 
re-printed with such additions as are necessary for students of the 
language as it is now spoken and written in Malaya. 



1^2 ildtidbook to Singapore, 

but there is still room for a historical aud scicutilio 
grammar, and for a larger dictionary. Visitors to the 
Straits Settlements will find the small hand-book pub- 
lished by Messrs. Fraser and Neave, Singapore, a useful 
guide to the colloquial. 

The literature of the Malays is extensive and copious, 
but not rich. It consists of heroic tales aud legends, works 
on ethics and laws, and a large number of proverbs and 
poems. Of the literature as a whole it may be said that 
it is imitative rather than original ; and this may be 
accounted for by the fact that the Malays have not for 
many centuries enjoyed an independent national exis- 
tence ; and, also perhaps, by the fact that the art of 
writing was unknown to them till they came into contact 
with nations more powerful and more civilised than 
themselves; and contact of that kind means conquest. 
It is probable that the acquisition of the art of writing 
dates from the Mahommedan invasion in the thirteenth 
century.* Malay is written in the Arabic character, with 
a few modifications of some letters to rei)resent sounds 
not found in the latter tongue. The vowel points are not 
in general use; consequently there is consideiuble uncer- 
tainty as to the correct orthography. 

The chronicles and legends are said to be painfully 
genealogical and as tedious and uninteresting to the 
Western reader as a Chinese drama to a European spec- 
tator. They have, however, an interest of their own, and 
are not without literary grace. The best known to Euro- 
peans is the Hikayatf of Abdullah bin Abdul Kader, 



* This is disputed by some who claim to have fouDd traces of au 
earlier Malay writing. 

JThe word Hikayatf used by the Malays, is the Arabic word for 
story. A translation of the greater part of Abdullah's Hikayaty by 
J. T. Thomson, f.e.o.s., is published by Henry S. King & Co. 



Malay Language and Literature. 133 

written in the year 1840. The author was the Munshi 
who taught Malay to the earliest British settlers in 
Singapore. This is not his only work, but, owing to its 
being used as a reading-book in the Colony, it is better 
known than the others. Another chronicle worthy of 
mention is the Sejarat Malayu (Malay Annals), a mixture 
of history and legend.* 

Besides the chronicles, legend;^, and other prose 
writings, there is a large number of proverbs, poems 
(«Atter)t and pantuns. The last-named, ihe paiituns, consist 
of a verse, or verses, of four lines each, rhyming alter- 
nately, and couched in highly metaphorical language, 
to discover the meaning of which often baffles the 
Western reader. Three specimens followj : — 

The heron flies into the air, 

And dashes down the fish it hud caught. 
Forbear to grasp burning embers, 

Or, feeling the heat, you will quickly let them pro. 

A maiden draws water from the well ; 

The bucket falls off, leaving only the curd. 
Con?JCut, my life, to the departure of your friend. 

And do not grieve at the separation. 

A white horse whose hoofs are black 

Is a horse for the Sultan Iskander. 
My love is dark ; various are her blandishments ; 

But she is incapable of speaking the truth. 

A valuable collection of Malay manuscripts, made by 
Sir Stamford Raffles, was lost to the world by a most 
regrettable accident. The East Indiaman on which Raffles 



* See note on p. 6 and p. 60. 

t Shder is also from the Arabic. 

{ Taken from the Appendix to Marsden's Malay Grammar. 



134 



Handbook to Singapore. 



bad embarked for England with his toUection, took fire at 
sea ; and though he escaped with the rest <»f the passengers 
and the crew, the uianuscrii:>ts were destroyed. 

TheMalavs luav often be heard readinj^ far into the 
night. One man reads aloud to a company of listeners ; 
and the method of reading is a kiud of chanting or 
intoning. 



D >'-,- 




5v>' 



^ 

\ 

^ 



Tramway Time Table. 135 



SINGAPORE TRAMWAYS. 



New Harbour and Johnston's Pier Section. 

TIME TABLE. 

Leaves New Harbour — 9 a.m.; 10.20 a.m.; n.40 a.m.; 
1 p.m. ; 2.20 p.m. ; 3.40 p.m. ; 5 p.m. 

Leaves New Harbour for Tanjong Pagar only. G.20p.m. 

Leaves Johnston's Pier — 9.40 a.m.; 11 a.m.; 1*2.20 p.m.; 
1.40 p.m. ; 3 p.m. ; 4.20 p.m. ; 5.40 p.m. 

On Saturdays, after 3 jo.?u., the Car runs between New Harbour 
and Tanjong Pagar only, as under. 

Leaves New Harbour ... 3.40 p.m.; 5 p.m.; G.20 p.m. 

Leaves Tanjong Pagar 4.20 p.m. ; 5.40 p.m. 

[No Car on Sundays.) 



RocHORE Section. ^ 

On week days Cars nin abottt ovevy 7 minutes, between 
the hours of G.30 a.m. an<l 11.30 p.m.; on Sundays, from 
12.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. 



i 



ACVEETISEMENTS. 



W. h. S8SL1IRS ^ G®. 



SINGAPORE. 


V i 


PENANG. 


(BATTERY ROAD.) 

_ i 


^^Bjm 


UNION STREET.: 


Wine, Spirit, \ 


^^ 


Commission 


Cigar and 


l^osadaX 




Tobacco 


^I^^J 


and 


Merohants. 


^^^^ 


Estate Agents. 



Special agencies : 

Continental Bodega Wine Company. 

Company General Cigar Factory. 

La Constancia Cigar Factory. 

Hongkong Brick, Pipe and Cement 
Company. 

Johnson's Portland Cement. 



Clubs and Messes supplied with all requisities 
for Cricket, Tennis, Golf, Football, etc., etc. 



ADTERTISEME^'TS. 



^ LETTER-PRESS, 

LITHOGRAPHIC AND 
COPPER-PLATE PRINTERS; 
>.PHOTO-ZINCOGRAPHERS, 

^\ 

>> \ MANUFACTURERS, 

PUBLISHERS. 
STATIONERS, 

&c. 



ACCOUNT BOOK 




Large 
Assortment 

of 
Stationery for 
Office and Privali 

use kept in 8tocl< 

PublUhi 

"Singapore & Straits 

Directory.' 

"TheTraveller3 Malay 

Pronouncing Hand-book."\ 

"Singapore & Straits Rough Diary ."\ 

"Housekeeper's Day Book." 

"Hand-Book to Singapore." 

Map of Singapore, &D., &o. 

/UJnrnUSEB-FropiiBtorE-D. CHALHEES HEAVE, 



ADTERTISEMENTS. 



o 
O 



e* 



^ 



Manufacturers of 
SODA WATER, 

SELTZER WATER 
POTASS WATER, 

LEMONADE, 
TONIC, 

GINGER ALE,/ ^ ^' 
GINGER BEER, &c., 
of the first quality 
only. 



<^ § 







Jo ^" 



THE 
PRINCIPAL 
CLUBS, 
HOTELS, and 
RESIDENTS in 



(O- V /SINGAPORE and at 
^-O A /the Outports supplied. 



o* 



The producing powers 



^ 

^ 



^ /^ /of tli's Company's Factory 

i^ ^ /having recently been greatly 

,^§^ ^ /augumented, special facilities 

^^ /exist for supplying MAIL and 

^ 4$^ /other steamers with Aerated 

Waters on the shortest possible 

notice. 

JOHN FRASER ) „ 

DAVID 0. NEAVE, r''°P'''®*0''S- 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



THE 

Singapore and Straits Directory 

OP 

COMMERCE, TRADE AND PROFESSIONS, 

With much useful Statistical and other Information, 
Published Annually, 

AND 

Coittaiun over fPOO paf/eft. 



PRESS OPINIONS. 



The Singapore and Straits Directory for 1892 is 
now ready. It is again enlarged, and practically contains 
the name of every European in the whole Far East. 
Instead of filling the volume with irrelevant matter a mass 
of information relating to the products, trade, history, &c., 
of each place is given, and in its way the publication bids 
fair to become a second "Whitaker's Almanac. It is cer- 
tainly without a rival in the East, and is extremely cheap 
at $5.- Bangkok Times. 

The ** Singapore and Straits Directory " for 1892 
is more than ever remarkable for the almost overwhelming 
amount of really useful information it contains. The work 
is got up with the careful accuracy characteristic of its 
publishers. — Hongkong Telegraph. 



Compiled, Printed and Published 

AT THE 

SINGAPORE and STRAITS PRINTING OFFICE, 

ROBINSON STREET, SINGAPORE. 



F&XCE $5 PE& COPT. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



£owell 6j Co., Singapore. 



Please read the following lines and bear them in mind. 

Our FURNITURE FACTORY is in Orchard Road and is 
the largest and most complete. It is supplied with steam 
power to drive our Wood-worhing Machines, Saws, Ac, 
thei^efore Contracts and large orders can he put through 
WITH SPEED. 

Our NINGPO CA