A
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LIFE IN JAVA,
VOL. II.
LIFE IN JAVA:
SKETCHES OF THE JAVANESE.
WILLIAM BAlUilNGTON d'ALMEIDA.
IN' TWO VOM'MKS.
\<I. II
I.ONDOX :
IirKST AM) r,LA('Kl<:TT, ITliLISIlKliS,
SI;('(;KS,S()I;.S to IIKNKV COlJUiiN,
1^;. *;uK,\'r .M.\iM,i',f)min;ii siui.Ki',
isr,.i.
Th.' ri.ihi I.I Tnnishilinii ,< nsirnil.
LOXDON :
CUINTED ]!V MACDONALD AND Tt:G\VELL,J?Li;NirEIM IIOUSK,
P.l-ENIIKnvr STKKKT, OXFORD STKEP;T.
CONTENTS
THE SECOND VOLUME,
(IIAPTKll 1.
l-',xcursion to (iorcn^'-Garen^ Toiiil) of AH IJassa \Vil<t
I>oiir limit (ircat Ivvjx'ctation.s Tcinpoi'ary l)isap])()iiit-
liiciit How tlu'y Hunt in Mailiocii Wlio ko('])S the
Do^s (iovcnuiieiit Auction foi'tlic Sale of Opium farms
A Cliincm! Rcjuly ncckonci- I.lack Tij^er Cruel S]iort
Arms of .Ma'liocn Yearly Hunt . . . ;>
CHAl'IKH II.
Xjiiwie, its Situation We leave for Soerakarta Deseriji
ticmofa TiLTer 'i'ra|i Curious 'I'ale Dutcli Outpost
Iliv.T Snlii .So<'rakarta^Alijfct iMcMJe of saluting {'ju-o-
pians A I'aii Alternative better than None -Kiml
' Fri( ihl,--SiH.rt Hi.-tnri,-;il Sketch-- I'resmt State of the
l'rinei->--'rih' i*"ort 'I'lic 'l^jwn 'i'wi'lvi' ^'ears a^'o
( wM-r.KKxled Mui'ilrrs--\V;nit of St riuL'-eiit Laws Ivvc
iMitioii of ( 'riminals (larri,,nn .'il
1 38 1 1 '18
VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III
Visit to the Kratoii Foolhardiness Presence of IVIind
Timely succour Melancholy Death of a Keeper from
Fright The Musgit A visit to the Susuhunan Unregal
Vestibule Pringitan Curious Ceremony Short Ac-
count of PakoeBewono VIII. His dislike for Pomp and
State Xative Tales of Two Great Guns A Visit to the
Munko-Negoro Respect for Royal Blood Tuan Ratu
Slamat Galan 6.S
ciiaptp:r IV.
Road to Djodjokarta The Old Kraton Change of Situa-
tion every Century Ruins of Brambanan Temple of
Kalassan Town of iDjokdja Kind Reception Ball at
the Sultan's Palace Visit of my Wife to the Seraglio
Passar Gedde The Kiaidudo .Vmboloro Cooning, or
Yellow Virgins Mysterious Slab Xumerous Traditions
'I'ale of Tyranny (Tcnerous Sympathy of a f Javanese
fiirl Its Reward 91
CHAPTER V.
The Pourworago Kraton Palace f)f Ardjowinagong Large
Seraglio Anecdotes of our Turtles A ^'isit to Taman-
sarie, or, Chateau d'Eau The Spring Tank of Siraman
Cool Request The Passar ^lelanclioly Deatli of a Brave
Young English Officer Female Revenge Curious Con-
trivanceTreacherous I Ios])itality^Swiss Conspiracy
CONTEXTS. Vll
A Mystcrimis Foot An PLvenino- ;it tlu' 'ruinuug-on;^-
Mertonej^oi'o's Konuuitic Scene AVc urc Enti'rt;iiue<l
;it I'ukoe Alain's War Dances Climate and Produce of
the Country . 121
CHAPTER VI.
Leave for Mociitillan 'i'euijik- of Mandoot 'Tradition of
Itajali Slainbe and his 'Two "Wiws Sinijtle UridLCe
Wonderful Property of Stones found in Snajscs' Heads
X'cnoin of a J'oisonous Serpent sucked out by a (Jaliga
Kiiinsof I)orot>odoo 'Their Singula!' Construction Alto-
liclicvos .Journey in 'Tuninn^'onu C(jld lieee])tion
Uather Slow Sultslituti' for Horses Legend of the P.uffalo
W'eaiisdine Joniney Ai'ii\(H| at last 10'.)
(ii.\iTi:u Vll.
I'dwii of \\'()nii.)l)o-- l'',\enrsio!i to the DienLT Lal<(! Mcnd-
jrr Ilc-ivy Pain Shelter Priniitivi' T'ire Valley of the
|)ii-nL( l.'uiiis <if 'Tcniplrx Dangerous Prs(ir-f for a
.XiLrht's P^'st Hut ."^prin^^'s likr I''ountains llatoin-.
<'(ildiics.s iif its < 'liiiiati' .\neient Poad or ('oiidiiit
l,al;i' <if many (.'nlmn-s .Mi 'lane holy Death (if a ( 'out ruiiiii'
-Nru I'sr fur a I'lankit 'Thmnlri -Stnriu .lavaiiese
Idra uf til.' La>t |)ay Pull- i.f thr Dutch fi iretold 'I'ca
(,i..|,,wus L'U'
Vlll COM TENTS.
CIIArXER VIII.
Leave for Bandjarnegara Hospitable Native His IMuseuni
Breakfast with tlie Javanese Regent Late Inunda-
tions Arrive at Tjilatjaji Good ILxrbour Salt Depot
The Fort Stalactite Grottoes Adjibareng Curious
Mistake Tagal C heribon Curious Buildings Cool
Sleeping llooni Proceed to Saniadang From thence to
Bandoug Tanko-ben-Prau Descent into one of the
Craters Javanese Veneration for their Chiefs Our
llees-Wagen . . . . . . . 235
CHAPTER IX.
Road to Tjandjor View of the Pangarango Another
]3ilficulty with Horses Unpleasant Discovery Situation
of Sinanglaya Ascent of the Pangarango (Quinine
Trees Variety of Orchids AN'^aterfalls A Night on tlie
JVIountain Gateway of Rato Pajajarran The Ghedde
The Doctor's ' Etablisnient" iMegauiundong IMountain
Arrive at Buytenzorg Governor-CJenerars Palace and
( h'oiuids Feast of Sedaka Buinie Return to Batavia
Vsit to Raden Saleh We bid adieu to Java . . 26J
CHAPTER I.
KXCUHsioN TO <;oi;KNi;-(iAi:i;N"(i tomis of ali isassa wild
\',<).\n iir.NT (ii;i;at k.\1'i;( tatioxs tkmi'okahv disai'-
I'OINTMKNT IKlW TIIEY Ilt'NT 1\ MAIHOKX WHO KKKl'S TllK
\)(i(;s (.o\'li:.\.mi;nt aiciiox for nii; sai>k of ofum
FAItMS A (TIIXFSF RFADV KKCKOXFU F.LACK TK.FK CUIFl.
,SF0];T AILMS ul MADKjKX VKAKF"i IILXT.
VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
Being invited by a Swedish (Gentleman to pass a
few days at liis country seat, wo started next dav,
accompanied l)y our host ; and as I had been pro-
mised a <:;ood day's sport, 1 made all necessary ])re-
parations for huntini^.
Leaviiifi; the town, we crossed tlie Madioen river
on a raft made of bamboo, and were landed on the
oj)j)osite side witli but little difiicidty, thoui^li, when
swelled by rains, the river, owini^ to the strouL'
currents, is (niit(; imjiassable.
We then drove thi'<iui;;h a flat countrv, of caiu-
and rice j)lantations, not aitoLTctlier uninterestinij
the j)lain, which, (otherwise, would have appeared
almost interminable, beiiiir bi'okeii bv the Lawoe
I! 2
4 LIFE IN JAVA.
and Pajitan mountains. As we neared Goreng
Gareng, our carriage passed between hedge-rows
principally of the kelor a tree not unlike the
acacia the leaves of which are a standing legu-
minous dish with the natives.
The house of the Swedish gentleman, whose hos-
pitality Ave were about to enjoy, was situated in a
wild neighbourhood the only houses in his vicinity
beino; those of his own workmen. He gave us a
heartv welcome, and after introducing us to his
family, showed us through his sugar factory,
a short distance behind the house. As we were
returning from inspecting the interesting process
of sugar-making, we turned to look at the view
behind us. The Lawoe appeared but a couple of
miles off, though in reality, we were informed,
it is above twenty. Below it is a range of low
hills called the Geryporno, on the summit of the
highest of which are the tombs of Ali Bassa and
his family, who, from 1825 to 1830, harassed
IIUNTIXG EQUIPMENT. 5
the Dutch, causing them much anxiety for their
safety in the island. In one engagement, it is
stated, tlie Dutch force was so completely cut up
that only a colonel and his drummer succeeded in
making their escape, to report the terrible issue of
the cncoiniter. Fortunately, however, this daring
defender of Javanese liberty was at last captured,
and exiled either to Borneo or to some small adja-
cent island.
Next morning we went out hunting the game
we had in view being deer and wild boar, or any
other wild animal we might come across, not ex-
cej)ting even th(.' tiger. Om* host, with his rough-
and-ready kind of field efpiipment, gave me the
impression of having been accustomi'd to wild
sports In the black forests of his mother country.
lie ean'ied a )-ii!e and sword, and in his belt wore
a dirk a weapon with whieli he also supplied each
of his gue^ts. Ml-. H , who was constantly in
the habit of joining in these jungle hunts, (observing
6 LIFE IN JAVA.
me smiling at the idea of our being thus armed
like wild corsairs, remarked
'' It is as well to be well armed sometimes one
comes to a close encounter when it is least ex-
pected. I well remember on one occasion it was
well-nigh all up with me ; I wounded a wild boar,
which immediately turned upon me a common
propensity with them when not hurt in any vital
part so I've been careful ever since." And in
corroboration of his statement, he showed me a
large scar on his leg, which had been torn by the
tusk of the savage animal.
Whilst we were on the subject of arms, our host
showed me a very curious old sword which he had
bought of some Javanese gun-smith at Batavia.
It was rather a rusty relic, but the blade seemed
still capable of doing good service. On one side
were cnsraved these well-known words :
" Xo me saques sin razoii,
Ni me embainas siu honor."
CURIOUS BATS. 7
Mounting the ponies wliich were brought for us,
and followed by several of ^Ir. II 's men,
carrying tombas or spears, and by a pack of
village curs famous for scenting out wild boar, we
sallied forth in picturesque guerilla style. Some
distance from the house we had to cross a stream,
the opposite bank of which wc had no sooner gal-
loped up than we beheld a most cui'ious sight.
Hanging from the Ijranches of two or three large
trees growing close together, were myriads of what
apjieared to ujc long black bottles,
"Th('S(; are some curious kind of fruit,"' said I
to Mr. U .
" Fi-uit I"' replied he, "why, they are bats, or
dying foxes, as some ])eople call them you will
se<', wlien wc get nearer, how they will Ijy about
the tree."
.And true enough our near aj)[)roach was the
slgmd for ;i gi'inral flight. Tliest> cui-i(jus-I(iokini{
creatures are called bv the Javanese the kaluno-;
8 LIFE IN JAVA.
their zoolo_2;ical name is Fteropus edulis. I had
frequently seen this species of bat before, ilpng
in the air ; but never in such clusters on a tree.
They were hanging by a claw, with their heads
downwards, partially concealed by extensive wings
of a dark brown hue, which, as impervious to wet
as a piece of oil-cloth, were folded round each like
a cloak.
As it was our object to get to the woods before
the sun rose, we set forth at a brisk rate, alter-
nately passing through plantations of indigo,
sugar-cane, and cotton, till we nearly reached our
huntinii-<jround a iunijle on one of the Bancha
hills. On approaching our destination, we heard
loud and repeated barking. Looking in the direc-
tion whence the sound proceeded, we saw to the
right a large wild boar pursued by the dogs his
little tail screwed up to a cus])idated point, and his
ugly head inclining first to the right and then to
the left, in order to ascertain the progress of his
BOAR-nUXTIXG. 9
pursuers. It was a most amusing sight, but des-
tined to be of short duration, for the unclean brute
suddenly took his tormentors by surprise, by turn-
ing suddenly to the right and entering the jungle,
where he was soon lost to sight. A few smaller
ones started up from f urzy bushes and small clumps
of trees, but these too soon proved they could out-
run the curs.
When we were in the jungle, we dismounted,
and left our horses with the grooms, directing them
wliere to wait for us. Our host now ])osted us in
different directions, so as to meet the game as they
were di-Iveii towards us Iiy the men. As, by this
arraiig<'inent, we were each left alone, and far from
oiic aiiothcr, I took tin- precaution to y)lace jnvself
iimiicdialcK- bcfuiv a lai'gc tree, to avoid any
chance of lieing siiddenK' attacke(l fi-om beliind
for I was coiii|)letelv liemiiieil in b\' trees, which,
like a (au'tain, hid frDnuuv view e\ervtliiiig bevond
their narrow Hniits.
10 LIFE IN JAVA.
I had not long waited in this position, before the
sound of sometbing approaching called my atten-
tion, and warned me to be ready. Crash, crash
went the dried and withered leaves under the
stealthy tread of some animal. " Now for a tiger,"
thought I, determined to be prepared for the worst ;
but no out rushed a fierce boar, his back bristling
with rage, and his tusks ready to tear whatever
came within his reach. "Now I have him!"
thought I ; and with the delight of a sportsman,
but with rather too much of the excitement common
to novices in jungle sport, I fired, striking the
animal in the hind cjuai'ter, and making him stagger
under my shot. Then drawing my dagger, I stood
ready to defend myself, expecting that the ferocious
animal would rush headlong upon me. As I was
left unassailed, I concluded that he was sagacious
enough to consider " discretion as the better part of
valour," for when the smoke cleared away, he
Avas gone ! I walked to the spot, and found a
CArTURE OF YOUNG BOARS. 11
pool of blood, by drops of which I traced a zlf^-zag
track for a short distance.
Disappointed, but far from despairing, I reloaded,
took lip my station once more ao-ainst the tree, and
again waited my cliance. No sooner was I thus
prepared than the leaves crackled once more, but
this time under a lighter tread ; then there was a
whirl and a whiz in the air, a scattering of leaves
ai'ound, and a sjjlendid })eacock ascended between
tiic network of liranches ; in a second my gun was
off, alas, to my great anncjyance, with as little good
f(;rtune as before.
Tlie oidy subse(pu;nt disturbers of my solitude
were some young boars, which, litlh; dexterity
being reipiired in tlieir pursuit, J captured without
(litlicuhy.
For an hour or two J heartl loud hai-king, and
knowing thi! dogs to he near, I ([uitli'd my j)ost in
order to see wh;it was going on. .\s 1 ap])roached
I heard the voices of tiie men crying, " Alahiyu I
12 LIFE IN JAVA.
malayu !" " Quick ! quick !" and when I came
in sight they were pointing their tombas towards
the jungle, to which a boar, after he had been
hunted by the dogs for some time, was fast beating
his retreat.
But why weary the reader Avith a further de-
scription of a kind of sport the full excitement and
delight of which none but those who have joined
in it can imagine ? Suffice it to say, we did not
return till evening, when we were qiiite done up
with the heat and fati";ue of the dav, and brought
home enougli spoil to repay us for our exertions.
Wild boars are numerous in this as in all cane
districts ; and Avhilst the canes are ripening they
are very destructive and troublesome. At that
season the labourers and villagers assemble on
appointed days for a battue. Dogs are sent into the
different plantations, and the men station tlicm-
selves outside in groups of from four to six, armed
generally with the tomba, Avith whicli they strike
SALE OF OriUM LICENCES. 13
down their game a few, however, carrying
fowhng-[)ieces, a weapon wliieh a nati\"e is always
proud to number among his possessions. I was
told' by our host that as many as twenty and thirty
are killed on these occasions in one morning ; and
as few, if any, of the Javanese will eat pork, the
carcasses arc thrown away, or cooked for the dogs.
The villagers, who keep and rear these dogs, re-
ceive as an encouragement, in addition to two
guntangs (a uative measure) of rice, five rupees a
mouth dui'iug the si;as(jn.
During our stay at Madioen, the gentleman with
wlujm we were residing to(jk me to see the sale of
licences f(n' the disjiosal of ojdum.
This is an aniuial auction, held in all the IJe-
gc'iK'ics and lu'^iclcncles oi .Ia\a. At a fixed
period of the year cei'tain towns arc named by
Government as tlic localities on which the j)i"ivilege
of selling o])ium has be'cn confcri'eil. Tin's jtri-
vilege they enjoy exclusively for a whole yeai",
14 LIFE IN JAVA.
after which a selection of fresh places for the
following year is made.
The Government, though deriving a considerable
revenue from the sale of this deleterious commodity,
is nevertheless endeavouring, in consequence of its
pernicious effects on the Javanese, to lessen the
quantity usually supplied for sale on these occa-
sions ; and in order to limit the number of persons
applying for licences, the prices of these have been
raised to a sum far beyond the means of any but
the wealthiest Chinese merchants.
The object of Government in changing the
localities selected for the temporary depots of
opium is to throw an additional obstacle in the way
of such smokers and consumers of the drug as are
anxious to renew their stock of it. As the towns
or villages selected this year may be twenty or
thirty miles distant from those named for the next,
it is evident that the pooi'er native can ill afford to
ride that distance very often, and the small quan-
THE AUCTION. 15
tity he had previously purchased lasting him only
a very short time, he is compelled to do without it.
Vendors are bound by a strict regulation not to
sell above a given measure Avhen it has to be
taken beyond the precincts of their shops, an
aiTangement which I feel assured has broken
many a native off this pernicious habit. It would
be highly interesting, as this is undoubtedly the
case, were the Dutch t6 collect materials for a
statistical account, the pul)lication of which might
enable us to com})arc the c()nsumj)tion of one year
with that of anotlier. Tlie cultivation of opium,
I was told, is strictly ])rohibited throughout the
island, and tlii' (iovcrnment consequently purchase
it in Iiidi.i and Turkey, two-thirds being imported
from the former, an(l one-third from the latter
country.
The auction, the great business of the day,
was held at tlu' Ivegent's house, which is situated
opposite the canqiong cheena and the Pono-
16 LIFE IN JAVA.
rogo road. We were received, on alighting
from our carriage, by the Regent, a mere
youth, and his uncle the Tumungong addy patti,
the acting Regent during the minority of his
nephew. Several Chinese were seated on the
straw matting which was extended over the stone
floor of a lar<ze covered verandah in which the
auction was to be held, and which formed a sort of
entrance hall to the house. Others stood listlessly
about, fanning themselves the whole time their
pates clean shaven, except a portion at the back of
the head, the hair of which hung in long neat
plaits nearly to their heels. All wore spotless
white grass cloth bajus, and dark blue baggy
trousers, the captains and lieutenants of each cam-
pong being easily distinguishable from the rest by
their grey flowered silk robes reaching to the calves
of their legs, and by their small skull caps with a
red mandarin knob on the summit of each. Shortly
after our arrival, a carriage drove up, bringing
PKOCEEDINGS OF THE DAY. 17
the two assistant Residents of Xgawie and Puno-
rofijo. ^Vfter kirscli-wassor had Ijeen handed
round in small glasses, the secretary, as represent-
ing the liesident, who was still an invalid, took
his seat near the middle of the upper end of the
tahle, the two assistant liesidents ])lacing them-
selves on each side of him. Oj)posite the secretary
sat the accountant, already busy with his pen.
The Kegent and Tunnuigong sat on the right, and
gentlemen (jf the disti'ict on the left, together with
the cai>ifiiii cheeiKi of the town, an octogenarian,
and the Chiiiesc cajitain of I'ouoi'ogo, Not one
. Javanese merchant was pn sent ; the n.'ason, I
suppose, Ijcing that, as the\' ai'e seldom so wealthy
;l^ thi' indefatigalile ("hluameu, the ])rices of the
licence Were altogether hevond their ri'ach. JJehind
the act'duntaiit stood the auctioneer, hanuner iu
hand, I'eadv f<ir action.
The pruceediugs ot the day wvw opened bv a
short speecli deliNcred by the .^eciX'tarv. in which
VOL. II. C
18 LIFE IX JAVA.
lie gave a cursory sketch of what was contained
in the more formal statement to be read by the
accountant from an official paper. When the
last named official rose, after bowing to all pre-
sent, he read out the names of the towns and
villages in the residency of Madioen where opium
was to be sold that year, adding, as a precautionary
warning, that all who infringed the rules published
by Government, either by the sale of opium, or
by smuggling it into the island, would be severely
punished.
On the termination of this preliminary proceed-
ing, he beckoned one of the attendant lookerson
to come forward, and directed him to put his hand
into a bowl which was jilaced upon the table, and
covered with a white napkin. From this bowl,
containing slips of paper with the names of
the ])rivileged towns upon them, this individual
drew a paper on which was written the name
" Ngawie," which he read out in a loud voice.
THE BIDDING. 19
Tlie announcement of tlie name caused no little
excitement amonn; the merchants, some of whom
struck their thighs with tlie palms of their hands,
while others heat their foreheads, accompanying
the action with a loud exclamation, apparently ex-
pressive of disappointment.
When the noise and l)ustle had suhsided, the
auctioneer rose and said, that, in the name of the
Government, the ]tesident of Madioen acknow-
ledged Ngawie to be the ])riiicipal and largest
oj)iuin farm in the pntvince, in c()iise(|uence of
whicli pi'ivilege the value of its licence was ten
ihousiiiid floi'ius (ahfiut >>',')) (In. .S(/.) a mouth.
"Now,"' he ad(hMl, ' capitans, we are waiting for
\"()ur liid."
'I'lic (ir;iiig ch('(,>n;i, howcxcr, (<iusidcring the
price named \('rv high, ;iske(l whetlur tlie (iovern-
iiient eoidd not he imhieed to lo\wi" it. 'Vlic rejiK'
was a deeide(l jiegative. A hdl ensut'd, ominous,
as some thouglit, of a dull market.
(' 2
20 LIFE IN JAVA.
The Chinese, meanwhile, were not unoccupied.
Some apparently absorbed in mental calculation,
or lost in thought, were biting the ends of their
fans in an evidently disturbed state of mind ;
others were talking together in low tones ; and
a few were consulting the " ready reckoner" by
which the Chinamen assist themselves in making
their calculations. This machine consists of an
oblong frame of wood, divided lengthwise into
two unequal compartments, with parallel wires
fixed across, leaving equal spaces between each.
On these wires are arranged balls, which can be
shifted up and down, two being in each small divi-
sion, and five in the larger one.
The auctioneer, in the meantime, was not idle.
Three times he offered up the licence for the opium
farm at Ngawie, and I suppose, if no one had bid
above the price fixed, it would have been farmed
bv Government; but at the words "third and
THE FINAL OFFER. 21
last time," the merchants seemed suddenly startled
into action.
" Eleven thousand I" cried out the capitan with
tlie hoary tail.
"Twelve thousand I" said the energetic captain
of tlie Chinese at Ponoroffo.
And tluis, step Ijy step, they raised their bids,
initil no less a svun than fifteen thousand was
finally offered.
" S;;tu kali, dua kali!" cried the auctioneer;
words e(juivah'iit to our ''once, twice." " Ti
ti '' he added, as he was about to prononnce tlie
final ''thi'ici'" ; wln-reujjon a fresh iHo\enient was
observed nniongst the colleagnes of the old
Madioen captain, as if tliev were urging him to
keep u[) the conti'st he had conuiienced and carried
on so well. Hut the cautious old man shook his
head, siL''nit \iiig tlmt it w;is all over for him ; and
the tiga kali being j)i'onounced, the licence was
assiirned to him who ha<l bid the fifteen thousau'l.
22 LIFE IN JAVA.
The purchaser was next desired to sign his name
to a document, in which he faithfully promised to
pay the Government one hundred and eighty thou-
sand rupees, or florins, in the ensuing year, by
monthly instalments of fifteen thousand. The
signatures of his two securities followed that of the
purchaser. The same process was gone through
with the licences assigned to other places, prices
lessening as the localities declined in importance.
I was informed, on good authority, that the
Government on that day made as much as a million
of rupees.
.On our way back we stopped to see a couple of
fine tigers in two separate cages or inclosures made
of palisades fixed close together. One of these
formidable animals was what they call the
machan itain, or black tiger, which has a very
dark, silky coat, the black streaks of which are
less distinct than those of the common kind. Both
of these ^^ ild beasts had been entrapped in one of
DANGEROUS SrORT. 23
the neighbouring forests, and, with the wild buf-
falo, were to form the ehief amusement at the
coming election of his Excellency the young
Regent, to whom we had been introduced at the
auction. The natives are very fond of the sports
in which these dangerous animals are introduced,
and it is the custom of the chiefs to preserve tigers,
&c., for occasions of rejoicing. As their festa
hasars (great feasts) are more frequently held on
the iustallatiou of a new IJegent than on any
other ocea>i(iii, I will attempt to describe the cere-
monies by which an event so important to the na-
tives is solemnised. ()u the day a])poiiite(l, ])lat-
forms, erected on tlie alnini aloirn^ art' covered
with matting, biuitiiig, and calicoes of various
colours. 'I'lh'se ai'e for the liesident and his suite,
and to!' till' iii'giiit with his friends and followers.
Multitudi'S ot natix'es, crowding the (i/mni tilmrn^
listen to the <onnd of the gamalan, and of many
other stringed instruments.
24 LIFE IX JAVA.
The Resident, at a certain stage of the proceed-
ings, rises up, an example in which he is followed
l)y all present. A few speeches are made, and the
nmbrella of dignity is handed to the new Eegent,
an act which is followed by loud cheers, waving of
hands, tudongs (a kind of hat), and handkerchiefs,
to testify the people's approbation of the new election.
The son almost invariably succeeds his father in
this office, as in the case of the young Regent of
Madioen, who, at the demise of his parent, was too
young to act.
This peaceful scene is followed by some Olympian
games, and by deadly combats between wild ani-
mals. The tiger and the wild buffalo, or the tiger
and the wild boar, ar(; thus matched against each
other; and contests even between snakes and
herons, or cranes, &c., afford the natives no small
excitement and delight on such festive occasions.
As no circus or arena of any kind is erected for
the fetes, se^'eral men, armed with long spears,
TIGER AND BUFFALO FIGHTS. 25
form a ring consistino; of a vast concourse of eager
spectators. The figlit between tlie tiger and the
buffalo is always considered the sensational scene
of the dny. The portable cage into which the
tiger has ])een driven is placed in the centre of the
ring, and that of his adversary exactly opposite, a
few paces apart. When the doors are opened, the
tiger, if he has lost heart In' his long confinement,
will immediately make a rush towards the circle of
spectators, seeking for a gap through which he may
make his escape a vain attempt, for so formidable
is the zone by wliich he is siu'rounded, and so
threatening an; the glittering spear heads, that,
with his tail between his liind legs, lu; not uufre-
cpiently rcti'cats to his artificial cover, out of which
he nnist again be driven in order to make him
come to tlie scrntch. If, as is gend'allv tlu; case,
lie at last tuiMis in desperation from the pointed
barrier of speai's, and encountei's tlie l)uff;do, in-
furiated by pain inflicted by tlie points of the
26 LIFE IN JAVA.
same weapons, the king of the jungle raises his
head, waves his tail from side to side like a cat
ready to pounce on its prey, and looks at his ad-
versary as though the glare of his fierce eyes we^e
sufficient to inspire awe and dread.
The avidience at this crisis becomes breathless
with excitement. From the Kegent himself, to the
little boy who gazes at the scene seated on his
father's shoulder, all are fascinated by the same
dread spectacle, and an ominous silence prevails.
The defiant roar of the tiger is responded to by the
deep bellowing of the buffalo, which shakes the
surrounding ground. The tiger, after stealthily
advancing, stops to watch the movements of his
foe ; the buffalo, threatening his adversary with his
formidable horns, stands ready to toss him in the
air. But the cunning animal, by a kind of instinct,
seems to understand the danger to which he is ex-
posed, and crouching down, as though for a leap,
while his enemy rushes forward to fling him up, he
THE ARMS OF MADIOEX. 27
leaps over liis liead, and with tlie speed of lightning
saddles himself all fours on his back. Beyond the
reach of danger from his opponent's horns, he now
plants his teeth into the skin of the unfortunate
buffalo, whose groans of rage and anguish are dis-
tinctly heard amid the loud shouts of the people.
Should tlie tiger not succeed in taking his leap at
the right momejit, the buffalo throws him up into
the air like a ball, and as he falls, stands prepared
to goad him to death. Jf the tiger should come off
vict(jrious in tlie contest, he is carefully kept and
tended, to disj)l;iy liis ])r()\vess in another gala.
The anus of Madlfjeii is a black l)nllwith a large;
hump abo\(! liis neck, '' couchant '" on the to]) of a
S([iiare |)illar phiced at the jiuictiou of four roads.
If 1 mi^tnkc iKit, Maiiiiieii in the \-eniacular signi-
fies a uild bull, (ir buffalo, an animal which is vet'\'
numerous in a wild >tate thi'oughout the j)ro\in(x',
when ver there is a thick jungle or forest.
There is generally a hunt e\erv year, conducted
28 LIFE IN JAVA.
by the Rogent himself, accompaniefl not unfre-
quently by the Resident and other officials. On
such occasions, a curious plan is adopted, but little
I fancy in accordance Avith the taste of our sports-
men in India. The sportsmen are perched up in
little huts, secured to the upper part of the trunk
of some large tree, where they wait in readiness to
pull the. trigger on the appearance of any bird
or beast, frightened to the spot by a large
number of the Regent's men, who surround the
forest, and, by their loud shouts, yells and cries,
startle the animals from their lairs, compelling them
to run, in a state of excitement and distraction, into
the very teeth of danger.
CHAPTER II.
N(.A\vii:, ITS sniATiox \vi; lkavk fuij .soei:akai;ta di;-
sri:ii'THix () A TiiiKi: tkaf criuois tale orTCii out-
I'csT i:i\i;i: sni.o s(ii;i:akai;ta aiuk.ct mode of salut-
iN'ii i.i"i;i)ri;A.\s a i'.ad aetkknative hettku than none
KIND IIMIADS SlIilKT II ISTOIItCAE SKETCH riM'.SENT
STATE or THE riMNCKS THE lOUT THE TOWN TWELVE
YEAl;S Ai;o COLK-IIEOODKI) .MIKOEliS WANT OE SrUINi.ENr
LAWS i:XECI riON OF CEIMINAI.S THE (JAUIMSON.
31
CHAPTER 11.
Mi;. A' , the secretary, our liost in Matlioen,
most kindly pressed us to stay witli him as h)ng as
we could; but, as we were anxious to be once more
('// ?Yy?//<', we were unable to avail ourselves of his
generous hdspitalitv beyond a few days. Accord-
ingly, having; taken leave of our friend in need, the
worthy schoi)lmaster, we l)ade adieu with some re-
gret til our lnjst, and left about six in the evening
of a wi't, i^loomv dav, foi" the small town with the
na-al->oundin^ name of Xaawie, wliei'e we arrived
vcvv late. Sonic minutes clajisrd before the landl(M"d
of ihe oidy loueiiieiit the [ilace affordiMl uiade his
a])])e;ii-,iiice, ill aiiswer to the summons of Drahman ;
but wlu'ii he did come, and was made to understand
our wants, he (|uickly shook off tin; effects of his
32 LIFE IN JAVA.
first short nap, and set to work briskly to supply us
with all the comforts he Avas able to provide.
The country about Ngawie is charming, though
wild in aspect, the Pundun chain forming a back-
ground to the town. There are no sights to be
seen ; but to a sportsman the adjacent woods must
prove most desirable, especially for hunting tigers,
which are so numerous that they are often seen by
travellers lapping the water out of the ditches that
flank the road.
The next morning we passed the extensive aloicn
(down before the Regent's house, on our way to
Soerakarta. Further on \\q perceived the formid-
able-looking fort called "Fort General van den
Bosch," which defends the frontier of Madioen at
the junction of the two rivers Solo and Madioen.
Once fairly beyond the town, we saw before us
sombre dense forests of teak, through which our
road lay. We were told before starting that tigers
frequently cross the road in broad daylight, cither
TIGER TRAPS. 33
in cliase of deer, or in order to gain the other side
of the forest ; but we did not see one, only wild
deer of very large size, and innumerable traps foi"
tigers some close to the road. One of these,
which had only just been erected, we stopped to
inspect. A tethered goat had been killed, and
partially eaten, the remainder of its carcase being
left as bait ; for it is a known fact that the tiger
will always return again, when hungry, to the meal
he has left unllnished. The trap was a very simple
contri\anct', but answei'ed the purpose remarkably
well, ])erha])S better than nuiny more elaborate and
ex[)enslve ones.
The gi'ound chosi'U is hollowed out to ten or
fifteen feet in length, and about a yanl wide. On
the two sides ai'c posts firmly ])lant('(l close to cacli
(jtlier, till' roof, which is couvcx-slinpeil, cunsist-
inir of jiolts tied like those of a raft. At one em!
is an opening, at the other a cage, almost iiiijier-
\i()us to light, in wliicli a kid oi" bleating lamb
V(JL. JI. I)
34 LIFE IN JAVA..
is confined for the night. The opening or entrance
shuts with a heavy shding door, attached by a rope
to the end of a ponderous beam. This beam rests
on the top of a pole, and its op]:)Osite end is kept
down by a large stone connected with a spring
in the interior of the trap, which is no sooner
touched, than the weight flies up, causing the door
to fall and debar the exit of the intruder. If the
tiger is not recpiired by the Regent for galas or
festas, a few poles are taken away from the roof, and
the poor brute is umnercif ully assailed with spears,
swoixls, &c. This steeping of the steel's point in
the hot blood of their victim is considered by the
natives as a potent charm to insure a deadly thrust
with their weapons, or to parry that of an adver-
sary. The mangled carcase is then placed on
all -fours upon a frame, and taken to the Kesident
of the district, Avho rewards the men with a small
lonation; after which it is sold to the Chinamen,
who give from ten cents to one dollar for a pound
VENERATION FOR TIGERS. 35
of timer's flesh, believino; that more than ordi-
nary strengtli is gained by eating this unnatural
food.
Men wlio liave tlie reputation of being expert in
tiger-traj)ping, are supposed by the natives to pos-
sess some partieidar charm, inlierited from their
parents, or given to tliem for a special purpose in
this world.
A curious story conceniiiig these animals
proving the peruliai' veneration in which tliev are
held by the natives was related to us l)y a gentle-
]nan as a fact. A friend of his, he said, having
l)oiight a large tract of f(rest land, had a small at-
tap hut built in the middle of it for himself and
the men wlioin he li;id hired to fell the trees.
Tliev had nut been settled man\' da\s in their tein-
porarv abode, wlieu one niiiht, as the 1 )uteh i^cntle-
man was i\iiig Mwake, but with closed ex-c^, he b'lt
a wai'in breath on his face, aceoiiuiaiiii'd I)\' a kind
of snitHnii; soutxi. Fearing It. wms -onie reptile, lu'
1) 2
36 LIFE IN JAVA.
dared not move or breathe, but, by a terrible effort,
kept himself perfectly still, until the sound of
steps retreating from his bedside convinced him
that his surmise was incorrect. Opening his eyes
very slowly, he was, however, none the less horri-
fied to see, sitting on his hind-legs, an enormous
tiger, with its glaring eyes fixed on the bed and its
occupant. Not having any weapon near him, the
Dutchman felt he was defenceless, but had nerve
enough to remain quietly where he Avas, keeping his
half-closed eyes fixed on the unwelcome visitor.
In a few moments, which appeared to him not
only the most momentous, but the longest, he had
ever experienced, the intruder stood on all-fours,
and sniffed about a little. " I cannot live it out,"
tliought the poor gentleman, " if he comes to my
bed again ;" and as he lay he could feel the cold
persj)iration dropping down his face. Fortunately,
however, his ordeal was over sooner than he antici-
pated, for the tiger, making his way to the
A GOOD TIGER. 37
opening ^vliicli served as a door, jumped to the
ground.
The astDiiisIied and terrified gentleman instantly
arose, and ealling up his men, asked them if they
had seen anything of the tiger. Their reply Ijeing
in the negative, he fastened up the entrance to
his room as securely as ])Ossible, again retired to his
hed, and, without any further interru})tion, enjoyed
his usu;d repose.
Xext iiHirning, summoning all his wood-cutters,
he ]iri)j)oscd a hunt for the tigor, which he felt con-
\inced \\;is lurking no great wa\' off. 'J'iiis propo-
sition the men very resprctfulK' declined, on the
gi'ound tli;U the tigei", li;i\iiig done him no injury
Vvlieii it ii;id him in iti power, must have keen a good
o)ie, wlio, lie nii;_|ht feel jivsiu'ed, ^vo^ld pre-ei've his
i-iittle fi'oiii the ;itt;ichs of other wild ;uiim;ils. The
vei-y lire;it!iiiig of th'- v.ild he;ist on his f;iee would,
according to tlnir coip.iction, net ;is a clinriu
against all dan^-ei-s k\' which he miuht he as.^alled.
38 LIFE IN JAVA.
The gentleman laughed incredulously, but, as he
was the only European, gave way to them so far
as concerned his proposed hunt. Notwithstanding,
liowcver, his labourers' good opinion of the tiger,
he took care, before nightfall, to have an effectual
barrier, in the shape of a rough door, fixed in the
opening through which the dangerous animal had
made its entrance and escape.
Near Sukowinangong, the eighth post from
Ngawie, we came in view of some mountains, the
Rajah JMunko, and the well-known Marabo and
Marapi, the smoke of the latter rising in misty
clouds against the clear blue sky.
At the next station we found ourselves close to
the river Solo ; where, on an elevation, is still to
be seen a house, surrounded by a low embrasured
wall, formerly a Dutch outpost, the garrison oc-
cupying which, at a former period, had bravely
encountered and resisted many savage and deter-
mined attacks by Kanjansinong, a Sultan of Solo,
JAVANESE COOLIES. 39
wlio, an inveterate enemy to the Dutch, could ill
brook their possession of the island.
The descent to the river's edge is very precipi-
tous ; and, as the stream is here both broad and
deep, our vehicle and horses were ferried over on
bamboo rafts. After we had crossed we con-
tinued our journey rapidly, and soon approached
the capital of the Susuhunan, or Emperor of
Java.
The coolies who were in waiting to push and
pull uj) tlie carriage, appeared to me to be men
of larger stature than the Javanese in general
prouder in their demeanour and bearing than
their gentle and submissive-looking brethren with
whom we had hitherto come in contact.
The entrance into Soerakarta is very pretty.
For a mill' or so before reacliiug it tlie road lies
between native campongs, not ([uite so neat and
clean-looking as those in Batavia, wliere they are
regularly whitewashed once a year, but shaded by
40 LIFE IX JAVA.
lofty, noble tamarind trees, which form a shady
avenue all along the road. The people we met
seemed to be dressed more swellishly, with sarongs
of every bright tint, reaching below the ankles; and
many of the male sex wore hats like inverted
flower-pots, made of bamboo, and covered with
paper, painted black and varnished. Others had
semicircular combs in their hair, fixed a little above
the crown of the head reminding me of the natives
of Ceylon, who appear, in many ways, to have a
greater affinity to the Javanese than any other
Asiatic nation.
Their mode of saluting Europeans struck us at
first as very singular ; but after a few weeks of
travelling, we soon became accustomed to it. When-
ever we approached a native riding on horseback,
he would innnediately dismount, and wait until
our carriage had passed by, bowing low as we drew
near. Frequently a string of peasants, trotting
l^riskly homewards, on catching ^siglit of us, would
AN UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT. 41
suddenly check their animals, lead them ofp the
main road, and, with hat in hand, stand uncovered
bv their horses until avc had driven past. I can
])erfectly understand now why the Dutch com-
plain of the manner of the natives in our Eastern
l)ossessions, who, it must be confessed, are some-
times very impertinent to strangers, never having
been taught by us such submission as the Javanese
render to tlieir masters.
We arrived too late to present our letter of intro-
duction that night to Colonel J , commandant
of the fort. A\'e therefore in(pu*i-e(l if there was
any place wliere we could rest for the m'ght, and
were directed to a dirty-looking hovel, the oidy
!<"l;:ing ill the j.lace, at which, to add to its other
discomforts, we could ]rocure no food fit to eat.
Ib)i-ing, however, for l)etter tilings on tlie morrow,
we m;|,, the l,cst of circumstances which could
not be lielju'd ; and after passing a most uncom-
fortable i.iglif, despatche.l Drahman in tlie morn-
42 LIFE IN JAVA.
ing with our letter to Colonel J . That gen-
tleman at once called with his wife and invited us
to his house, sending his own carriage to take us
there, and showing us every kindness during our
stay in Soerakarta, or, as the natives call it, Solo.
The traders of Malacca use this name as a kind
of advertising medium to enhance the value of the
weapons they import for sale.
Such a statement as the following may fre-
quently be heard when they are anxious to push
the sale of their goods :
" Where can you buy a finer kriss than this ?
Allah, Tuan, it comes from the tanah Solo (land
of Solo) ; and where's the weapon that will match
it for sharpness and strength? None can beat
Solo krisses no, not even those of Bugis !"
In all probability, except the hilt, which is of
Malay workmanship, the kriss is all of Birmingham
manufacture, as the Solo weapons, being highly
prized, arc very expensive.
HISTORICAL EVEJy^TS. 4B
Soerakarta is surrounded by five provinces. Its
climate is very agreeable and healthy, the heat
never being very oppressive, and the nights and
mornings generally very cool and refreshing.
As several interesting events have occurred in
the history of this province, I will here interrupt
the narrative of my own journey to give a sketch
of some of the more important incidents in the
lives of its princes, which, to those who know little
of Java and its history, may prove both interesting
and instructive.
On the destruction of Modjophait by Moslem
invaders, a descendant of the then reigning svdtan
fled, with a host of followers, into the interior of
the ishmd, conquering several ])etty chiefs Avho
opposed him, and finally settling down in a small
town called Padjang, which he quickly walled
round and dignified by tlie name of Kraton. In
process of time he extended his conrpiests east-
ward to Passeroewan ; and all the land fifty or
44 LIFE IX JAVA.
sixty miles to the west of his Kraton was either
virtually his, or its princes acknowledged them-
selves his feudatories. He was now styled the
Ratu, or King of Padjang, a dignity which he was
not long allowed to enjoy in peace. His foes,
growing jealous of his increasing power, marched
to the confines of his dominions, where they Avere
met by a large force, headed by the Ratu's
favourite chief, Pamanahan, who, after displaying
great bravery, compelled the enemy to beat a hasty
I'etreat.
For this signal victory the King of Padjang
bestowed upon Pamanahan a whole province, con-
ferring on him the title of Kiahi-gede ]Matarram,
or prince of ^latarram. The dignity thus acquired
he enjoyed as long as he lived, which, unfortu-
nately, was bnt a short time. On his death he
was succeeded by his son, who styled himself
Sultan Senopati AVongalogo.
This youth, full of ambition, and wanting in
A rebf:llious trince. 45
gratitude, refused to pay allegiance to his father's
benefactor, and commenced building a Kraton
which he called Passar Gede. The Sultan of
Padjang, on hearing of this rebellious conduct,
immediately sent messengers with orders for the
instant demolition of the new Kraton. The young
])rince not only insulted the officers of the Sultan,
lAit sent them back with a message of defiance to
their master, whom he further offended by the
completion of the Kraton he had been ordered to
pull down. Finding his demands thus scoffed at
and scorned, the liatu resohed to ])ursue ano-
ther course. As he neither sent any further
deniantl, nor took any hostile measures against
him, the rash youth Ix'gan to congratulate himself
on the success of the l)old stej)S he had taken.
Put his joy was ])remature. P^astern jjotentates
are not so easily turned from any course on whicli
tlu'V have once decided. If they cannot accom-
plish it by fair means, they will by foul. So it
46 LIFE IN JAVA.
was in the present case ; for in the year 1586, the
Sultan found means to have the rebelHous prince
dispatched by poison or the dagger. The King of
Padjang lost no time, on hearing of the success
of his murderous scheme, in hastening to take
possession of Passar Gede, where he was speed-
ily proclaimed Sultan of Padjang, and King of
Matarram.
Passing over three lineal successors, we come to
the fourth, who ascended the throne as Susuhunan,
or Emperor, jSIangkuraht I. This sovereign, de-
serting the Kraton of his forefathers, built another
a mile from it, which he named Karta Soei'a, signi-
fying the Work of Heroes. The fifth styled
himself Susuhunan Pakoe Bowono I., or Nail of
the Universe ; and his son, who succeeded him in
1719, was called Ilamaigku Raht II., his previous
name being Mangko Negoro. Two of his brothers
gave the Dutch incessant trouble for some years;
and at last, on being found concerned in Elber-
MIGRATIOX TO A NEW KKATOX. 47
feld's plot, were exiled to one of the Moluccas.
In the time of Pakoe Bowono II., who filled
the throne nine years after the demise of his
father, Ilamanku Raht II., the Kraton was attacked
and taken by Chinese insurgents, the Sultan and
his followers narrowly escaping with their lives.
Ilamanku several times tried to drive out the un-
welcome intruders ; hut as every attempt proved a
failure, he called the Dutch to his assistance, and
in conjunction with them accomplished his object.
In return for the aid they had afforded him, he
made several concessions of laud to them, hi
conse([uence, howex er, of the Kraton having been
seized, it was considered unlucky and deserted, the
whole court and attendants migrating to a new
Kraton whicli the Sultan had erected, and whicii,
hy a trans])ositi()ii of words, he called Soera-karta.
Hut he was no sooner peacefully established here
than fresh ditiicultics and troubles ai'ose. His
^ third brother, pn^bubly influenced by ijitriguing
48 LIFE IN JAVA.
parties both witliin and without the dominions of
the Sultan, claimed a right to share the throne and
the revenues of the country ; and Hamanku,
anxious to spare uiuieccssary bloodshed, decided
to invite the Dutch to act as arbitrators and settle
the dispute. This they did in a manner con-
formable to the political game they were then
playing.
They divided the kingdom of Padjang into the
provinces of Soerakarta and Djokdjokarta, thus
weakening what was once a powerful state. The
former and larger of the two divisions, situated
about the middle of the island, they made the
seat of the Susuhunan, or object of adoration ; and
in the latter they placed Plamanku's brother, with
the title of Hamangkoe Bewono I., Sultan of
Djokdja. From these princes are descended the
present Emperor and Sultan.
The Susuhunan, whose person is held sacred
by his subjects, dwells in the Kraton which I sub-
JAVANESE PRINCES. 49
sequently visited. The Dutch give him the title
of Kaiser, and to Englishmen in the East he is
known as the Emperor of Java. In fact, both he
and his neighbour are spoken of as independent
princes ; but all who visit the Vorsten Landen must
know well that the movements of these two sove-
reigns are as rigorously guarded as those of the
dissolute ex-king of Oude at Calcutta ! The only
real independence they now possess is in the
management of their own affairs of state, and the
power of letting the lands under their dominion to
Europeans or Chinamen for cultivation, without
enforcing the third of the produce from them.
The Susuhunan, and the princes who hold
landed property, have cavalry and infantry of their
own, a kind of Tjandwehr, or militia, subject to
regulation, discij)line, and eqm'pment like that of
tiic Dutch army; each regiment having, besides
thosn officers appointed by the princes themselves,
a Dutch major, ca[)tain, and ensign.
VOL. IF. E
50 LIFE IN JAVA. ,
So far as we could see and learn, these native
sovereigns are perfectly content with their present
position. The titles, rank, and orders, which,
from time to time, the King of Holland confers
upon them, are regarded as marks of honour, which
they receive with gratification. They are, how-
ever, given to petty jealousies and rivalries among
themselves, and, probably, if left entirely to their
own guidance, might prove the truth of the
saying
" That he may take
Who has the power,
And he may keep who can/'
The fort lies in the centre of the town, from
which four roads branch off in opposite directions.
It is surrounded b}' a deep ditch, continually filled
with water, which is fed by two large tanks. The
walls are mounted with guns of a large calibre,
some of which, in case of an insurrection, could be
easily directed against the outer gates of the Kraton,
situated at no great distance.
THE COTA BLUNDA. 51
Facing the fort are a number of European
houses, and behind it is situated the Cota Blunda,
or old Dutch quarter, the only part of the town in
wliich, till within late years, for their safety and
protection from the natives, who used to be trou-
blesome and dangerous, European inhabitants were
permitted to reside.
To the left, beyond the road, a portion of the
old Kraton's ruined walls was just visible through
the tangled network of wild plants and trees. On
the right hand is the Peppay road, so called from a
small river which runs past it, dividing the Chinese
from the European quarter.
I do not know the exact date when the fort was
built, but I am probably not far wrong in saying
about the year 1672. Its construction is very
similar to tliat of the other stronifholds I had alreadv
seen in ,[;iva. The walls, which are not angulated,
after the ])laii of Vauban or Descartes, are waslied
with a dark slate coloured preparation, as though the
E 2
52 LIFE IN JAVA.
nation were in the deepest mourning. This colour,
I believe, is adopted on account of its durability.
The roads near the fort are shaded by avenues
of trees, which, from a distance, completely conceal
the walls from view. I noticed that all buildings
of a similar description, which I had hitherto seen
in the island, were planted round with tall trees,
some of them so completely hidden behind bamboo
hedcres as to be almost concealed from sio;ht. This
arrangement is intentional the argument in its
favour being that the trees serA^e as a kind of
screen, by which, in time of war, the number of
guns would be concealed from the besieging force ;
and not only this, but in case of necessity they
might answer the purpose of gabions, &c., to stop
a breach, or strengthen a weak part.
I was told that, up to the period of twelve or
thirteen vears ago, the drawbrido-es of both front
and postern gates were drawn up every evening,
and lowered the next morning. A small guard, too,
MURDERS. 53
was always stationed in the Cota Bluncla. At this
time, murders in the dead of night were very fre-
quent in all parts of the town, especially in the
Peppay road, one might almost say under the very
walls of the fort. Yet the murderers always suc-
ceeded in making their escape ; for if any of the
native inhabitants saw the dreadful act, or if their
suspicions were directed to the guilty party, they
carefully concealed their knowledge, for fear of
retaliation. Thus life to use the lanrruafie of
a native was as cheap as a withered leaf. The
victims of assassination were mostly Chinese and
natives, who were either butchered for the purpose
of robbery, or from some private feeling of enmity.
Sometimes the bodies (jf the murdered were thrown
into the shallow river, and at others left on the
road to be recognised next morning by some
passer-by.
The state of things had become so fearful that
no one veiitiuvd to walk aljroad after dusk. The
54 LIFE IN JAVA.
Dutch, therefore, seeing the necessity of checking
this growing evil, made representations regarding
it to the Susuhunan, requesting him to make more
stringent laws for the safety of the inhabitants.
These representations had the desired effect.
Strict watch was set upon certain suspected
parties, who were finally caught, proved guilty,
and sentenced to death. The execution of these
criminals proved a salutary lesson, as the amount
of crime committed began from that time to lessen;
and at the present day there is not in the whole of
J a va a more peaceful town than Soerakarta.
The gamson is composed of Dutch, Swiss, and
African soldiers. The latter are mostly tall, stout,
and sinewy men, and generally make hard-work-
ing, patient, and enduring soldiers. After serving
twenty years they receive a pension, and are
allowed either to remain in the island, or to return
to their native land.
As our host and hostess could not speak French
A RECEPTION. 55
or English, and we were ignorant of Dutch, our
conversation was carried on in Malay, which, as
spoken here, differs in some points from that
spoken in the Malayan peninsula. This difference
is doubtless owing to its being mixed with many
words of the Javanese language.
The evening following our arrival within the
fort happening to be the colonel's birthday, he in-
vited his officers and some of the native princes to
a reception; but, as there were no ladies present
except our hostess and my wife, the amusement of
the evening was princi})ally at the vist tables, a
game of which the Dutch are particularly fond. The
]{esident and some princes were of the party, Avhich
was of sufficient ini])ortance to merit particular de-
scrijition.
1'lie first who arrived was distinguished by the
high-sounding title of Pangeran Addi Phati-sarie
Munko-Nctroro. The fact of his bcinir a (U'scend-
ant of tlic Miuiko-Xciroi'o ahvadv mentioned a
56 LIFE IN JAVA.
name signifying literally, " the earth supported on
the thigh" entitled him to this imposing if not very
euphonious appellation. This distinguished indivi-
dual made his appearance in a grand carriage
drawn by four splendid grey Arabs, followed by a
small suite of attendants, escorted by two outriders
of his cavalry, and accompanied by some of his
sons.
He was about the middle height, his dark face
was wrinkled, but his black eyes were full of viva-
city and penetration. From his conversation, one
could see at once that he was a lover of knowledge,
and ever ready to gain information. In Arabic he
was quite at home, and knew as much of the old
Kawie as could possibly be gathered from the sinu-
ous characters of that extinct language, which, as a
Javanese once observed to me, " we can pronounce
perfectly, but are ignorant of its meaning."
He was a most amusing companion to converse
with. His knowledge of Eastern history being ex-
AN INTELLIGENT NATIVE. 57
tensive, lie was full of anecdotes of past and present
times. When I asked him if he remembered Sir
Stamford Raffles, he replied in the negative, but
added " I can never forget the splendid English
horses my father used to keep, some of which were
presents from Sir Stamford llaffles." lie spoke
loudly in praise of our saddles, fowling-pieces,
weapons, &c., which, when they can be obtained
by the Javanese, are ])rized very highly, lie seemed
to me to have a better knowledge of Dutch than
he cared to shew. If such was really the case, his
knowledge niust have been self-acquired, the Dutch,
as we have already remarked, giving no encourage-
ment to the acipii^ition of their ditHcult language
by the natives. lie took great ])teasure in his
regiments, spoke with pride of the cavalry and
infantry, comprising se\enteen hnndre(l men in all,
anil pressed me vei'v mueli to I'emain in Soerakarta
to see a lieM-day they were about to Inne.
The ' Cron-l'rins, ' as the J>)uteh call him, from
58 LIFE IN JAVA.
his being nephew and heir-apparent to the old
Susuhnnan, arrived soon after the Munko-Negoro,
coming in a carriage gorgeously decorated with
bright colours and gilding, drawn by six Australian
horses, and escorted by four of his body-guard.
He was a young man, about two-and-twenty, the
father of a pretty boy, and of several daughters, who
were left at home, as in this country girls are sel-
dom brought into company. In person he was
short, with a strong Hindoostanee cast of counte-
nance. His eyes were large, dark, and brilliant ;
but expressive of mildness and tenderness. He
was dressed in the Dutch uniform, as Major or
Colonel I foro;et which of the Susuhunan's
troops, his head only, like that of the other natives,
being dressed up in a (Jark blue kerchief.
This native prince was not married at the time I
speak of, though his union was then in contempla-
tion ; but he had a seraglio of bondays or concubines,
by whom he had already a number of children. A
THE CRON-PRINS. 59
laro;e suite of attendants, sword and kriss bearers,
betel nut and hat carriers, &c., accompanied him,
ever on the alert to minister to his wants. His
father, Pakoe Bewono VIL, died in 1859. He
resides in the Kraton, having a separate house and
establishment of his own.
CHAPTER III.
VISIT TO THE KUATOX lOOI.HATiDIXESS PRESEXCE OF MIND
TIMELY SLCCUIK MELANCHOLY DEATH OF A KEEPER FKOM
FIHOHT THE Mr.S(,li- A VISIT TO THE SUSUIIUNAN UN-
UE(iALVi:STllirLK I'lHXOITAX CURIOUS CEREMOXY SHORT
ACCOUNT (Jl I'AKOK IlKWOXO VIII. HIS DISLIKE FOR I'OMI'
AND STATE XATIVI' TALES OF TWO OREAT OUXS A VISIT
TO THE MUNKO-NE(;Ol;o RESPECT FOR ROYAL BLOOD TUAX
RATU SLAMAl OALAX.
63
CHAPTER III.
The next day, while waiting for an answer to the
request we had made to the Susuhunan, that he
would grant us an interview, we amused ourselves
by going into the Kraton.* This celebrated place,
the lions of which we were anxious to see, is a mile
square, and suiTounded by a high wall about twelve
feet in height, and two or tlu'ee thick. Some of
tlie Kratons have four principal gates, but this one
of Soerakarta has oidy two. Within its walls are
the ])ahice of the Eni])cror, the houses of the princes
and nol)iHt.y about the court, and a hirge village of
atta]i huts, iiiliabit('(l by the servants of the respect-
ive households.
IlavingcntcredyWe crossed the.l loicn Alov u, and
*'nic\v(]nl Krjitoii is sjiid to liavt,' been dcrivoil from I'atu
a kiu<^ ivini si;,MiifiL'S, a ))lacc uf kings.
(34 LIFE IN JAVA.
went straight to see the tigers, which are kept here
till some great occasion, when there is to be a fight
similar to the one I have already described. After
some delay the juru coonchie appeared, and con-
ducted us within a small enclosed area, where, in a
large cage, made of thick teak beams negligently
put together, we discerned through the chinks four
tigers walking from side to side. I w^as told that
two soldiers came to see them, on a certain occa-
sion ; and one of them, anxious for a closer in-
spection, mounted a ladder and gained the roof.
While stooping over the space purposely left open
for the keeper to drop the food in, his cap came off,
and, as he failed to seize it, fell on the floor below.
Knowing that to return without it would subject
him to punishment, he endeavoured to raise it up
by means of a pole, but finding this ineffectual, he
rashly jumped down into the den. His comrade,
on witnessing this foolhardy leap, concluded he was
lost, and ran as fast as his legs would carry him, to
PRESENCE OF MIND. 65
acquaiut tlie officers of his regiment. The report
spread Kke wildfire, and before many minutes had
elapsed several soldiers had hurried to the spot,
calling out, ' Franz ! Franz !" the name of their
comrade. To their great astonishment and delight,
liis voice was heard in answer,
" I am alive, but want to be out of this vile-
smelling place."
" Ilimmel I"' exclaimed a young German, " lose
no time hand up the ladder", and he climbed up to
the top in a moment. " Now, Franz," he exclaimed,
as he lowered it through the aperture, "be quick!
run up as fast as you can !"
Franz needed no second bidding. In less than
two miiuitcs he had joined his conu'ades, none the
worse, and nothing daunted by his strange intei--
view.
' ^Vll(Il first 1 jumped down," saitl he, in rej)lv
to the ([uei'ies of his coiiu'ades, '' 1 came sj)raw]iiiii;
on all -fours, and had no sooner got uj) again, tjian
VOL. II. r
66 LIFE IN JAVA.
I began to think I had clone a very silly thing. In
one corner I saw, as I looked round, six glittering
eyes like golden balls glaring at me ; and at the
opposite side a tiger, apparently bolder than the
rest, advanced toward me. Seeing the beast's in-
tention, and knowing how utterly defenceless I
was, I gave utterance to an awful yell, and to my
no small delight he turned, and, as though terrified
at the unusual sound, cowered down again. ' You
are not very hungry, my boy,' was my thought, as
I picked up my cap, and took my seat on one of
the cross-beams, to await the arrival of some kind
friend ; and you may judge with what pleasure I
heard your voices as you came to liberate me for,
besides the fear of danger, the smell of the place
quite made me sick."
This man's extraordinary coolness and courage,
which was the topic of conversation for many days,
gained him the admiration of the officers, and for
a time he was quite the " lion" of the place.
FATAL INCIDENT. 67
Another but more fatal incident was related to
me at the same time. A keeper, whilst engaged in
throwing down the carcases of dogs, &c., to the
wild beasts, slipped his foot, and falling into the
den, lay flat on the ground, where he continued for
some hours, until his wife, missing him at their meal-
time, came to the cage in the hope of finding him.
" Ahmet, Ahmet, are you up there ?" she cried as
she reached the foot of the ladder. AYho can
describe her lioiTor when the expected answer
came not from above, but from within the den.
Her cries for help soon brought numbers to the
spot, and poor Ahmet was, at last, with some difh-
cuUy, hoisted up by the aid of ropes. He seemed
almost ])araly/,ed with feai', and on lieing carried
home, was put to l)cd, where he was seized with
(I'Diiiiium ."^tijii, or ague, and died next day.
On tlu' opposite side of tlie green stands the
Mu'^glt, 01* Mo-fpie. The enti'ance of Kiii'opeans
into their '' sacred eilifict- '" is not ]irohibite(|, as it
I- 2
68 LIFE IN JAVA.
is in Calcutta; nor do they require you, as at
Cairo, to wear slippers before you can step over
the threshold. The interior, like that of all Mos-
lem places of worship, is entirely devoid of images,
and possesses but few objects of interest and curi-
osity. The apex of the roof is surmounted by a
ball of gold, the weight of which is said to be a
picul, an object of which the Mahomedans are very
proud.
In the afternoon, accompanied by our kind
friends, w^e visited the Susuhunan. On entering
the Kraton, after skirting the Alown Alown, and
passing through a lofty gateway, we drove along
a road for some time between two high walls.
Arriving at length before the entrance to the
courtyard, the massive w^ooden gates were opened,
and a file of the Kaiser's body-guard, composed of
small men, with disproportionate-looking swords,
saluted us as we entered. Passing from this into
another large square, we were again saluted ; and
VISIT TO THE SUSUnUNAN. 69
in a third met with a simiLar reception. At last
we reached the vestibule, which was very dirty.
The mirrors, having, from neglect, lost part of their
([uicksilver, and the gilding having disappeared
from their once splendid frames, had a tarnished
appearance. The floor was strewed with ends of
cigars, roccos, tobacco, and other refuse ; and the
walls Avere daubed with red in patches, marking
the spots where the careless inmates had expec-
torated the betel-nut, &c., after having chewed it.
Here we waited while two dirty old women
who, to their profession of cake-vendors to the
court, added that of porters also announced our
arrival ; and a native band having almost at the
same moment struck up a wild air, we marched in
order, escorted by some officers of the royal liouse-
Iiolil, to till' Pringitan, or Audience Hall a
kind of large s(|uare verandah, on a level with the
main luililiiigs, roofed over, I)ut open on three
sides, and sujijiorted l)y pillars, on which tigures of
70 LIFE IN JAVA.
birds and flowers are carved. It is reached by a
flight of steps which extends along two sides.
Being ignorant of the etiquette necessary in this
foreign court, we determined to make good use of
our eyeSj and follow exactly the movements of the
colonel and his wife, who, having been frequently
at court before, were perfectly familiar with the
requisite forms.
As we approached within a few steps of the
Pringitan we bowed to his majesty, who graciously
acknowledged this mark of respect by a slight in-
clination of his head. Mounting the steps, we
stopped again on the top one, and all bowed, the
officers saluting him with their swords. After ad-
vancing a little farther towards him, we came to a
dead halt, for the third and last time, and when
about a yard from his royal person, lowered our
heads once more. When will this end I thought
I, for we began to think the ceremony rather
tedious. All that remained now, however, was
JAVANESE PRINCESSES. 71
the process of introduction, and Colonel J-
liavinfT presented us to liis majesty, who shook
hands with us, we all sat down in a semicircle, in
the centre of which, seated on a chair, cushioned
with red velvet, was the Susuhunan. Ilis sister-
in-law, niece, and two daughters, the latter looking
almost as aged and wrinkled as their father, were
seated on his right hand. The niece was what
one might term a good-looking Javanese girl,
with large dark eyes, and complexion fairer tlian
the generality of natives, probably owing to a
liberal aji})lication of Biidda,* as well as to the
fact that personages of her rank are ])ut little ex-
posed to the scorching rays of the sun. Her thick
glossy black hair was skewered by diamond j)ins,
the precious gems being of unusual size and
kistn;.
The Susulmnan was in liis seventv-sixth year,
I'owilcr made of aiTdW-root and otliiT fai'iiiarcous in-
''rcdit.'Ut<.
72 LIFE IN JAVA.
but appeared both healthy and active. He must
have been a rather tall man, but lost some of his
height by stooping, though he was less bent than
most natives of his age. His head-dress consisted
of a black kerchief, to which were attached several
diamond ornaments. In the middle, just above
his forehead, was a yellow dahlia, cut and trimmed
so as to look like a brooch, in the centre of which
blazed a large diamond. He is the only native
prince who is entitled to wear this flower on his
head, the ornament being regarded as a distinctive
emblem, showing that he is looked upon as the
most sacred of native princes throughout the whole
archipelago. Round his neck were three long
collars of diamonds, emeralds, and gold, in addition
to a massive gold chain; and on his left breast
some orders, one of which was that of the Lion of
Holland. He wore, likewise, a medal which, hav-
ing sided with the Dutch, he had gained during the
Ja^a war. A Geneva watch, the back of which
TAKOE BEAVONO VIII. 73
was covered with diamonds, and a number of
splendid rinijs, completed the list of the old mon-
arch's jewelry. The jacket he wore was of green
satin, the vest of dark blue velvet, and the sarong,
which completed his attire, a batek of the prang
rusa, or deer fight, pattern, which, like that of the
Chinese dragon, is only worn at court. Beside
each individual present was placed a spittoon, or,
as the Americans term it, cuspidore a word, by
the way, originally derived from the Portuguese
in tlie form of a brass vase, ornamented with
flowers and filigree-work. The one for the es-
pecial use of the Susuhunan, which was of solid
gold, was ])laced on a stand.
Pakoe Pewono VIII. (the present Susuhunan),
was always unaml)itious, and so averse to filling
the thi-onc of the Pcwonos, tliat, on tlie demise of
his father, he steadily refused to occupy the vacant
seat, giving uj) his right in favour of his brother,
who ascended the throne as I'akoc Pewono VI.
74 LIFE IN JAVA.
This monarcli's reign, however, was a very short one.
ImpKcated in certain intrigues which were sup-
posed to be detrimental to the interests of the
Dutch, he was, by their orders, seized and exiled
to Amboyna, where he died. He was succeeded
by a third brother the present emperor having
again refused the seat of honour who conducted
himself till his death, which happened in 1859, to
the entire satisfaction of all parties. Had the
" Cron-Prins," his nephew, been old enough to
reign when the monarch died, the present Susu-
hunan would, for the third time, have declined to
take the reins of government into his hands. As
it was, he had no alternative, and I believe he has
had no reason to regret his exalted position, for his
reign has been one of uninterrupted peace.
The King of Holland has conferred upon him
several honours, one so recently as the year 1862,
when he received the honorary title of Major-
General in the Dutch Indian army. His native
ROYAL ECCENTRICITIES. 75
names and titles are, Susubunan of Soerakarta,
Pakoc Bowono, Senopati, Ingalatro, Ngabdoer,
Rachman, Ponotogomo.
Ilis wife (lied a few years ago, leaving liini no
male heir, and, contrary to Javanese habits, he has
never remarried, or kept a seraglio. The natives
themselves say of him, in allusion to the purity of
of his life, " Diya punia ati puteli soongguh
soongguh sakali." " Ilis heart is perfectly
white."
He passes the day in a house adjoining his
palace, and at night never sleej^s under a mosquito
curtain, but occupies a sofa, which is never two
niglits consecutively stationed in the same position,
oi' in the same room. Not unfrecpiently, when it is
dri/./.Hng witli rain, he insists on sleeping on a mat
out of doors. Thcs(! eccentricities are attributed to
two reasons : tlie first maintaincMl hy the Dutch,
who ascrih(; them to a dread of treachcrv from liis
own pe(jple ; and the second by tlie .Javanese, who
76 LIFE IN JAVA.
say he prefers the open air because he can com-
mune, in the silence of night, with the spirits of
bygone monarchs, or hold converse with his tempo-
ral and spiritual adviser, Ngaisatomy, who, by day,
hides herself in a large cannon covered with red
cloth, and caged round by trellis-work of bamboo,
and is only exhibited to the public on grand occa-
sions. This cannon stands in the Sitingil, one of
the courts near the palace, and its inmate w^ams
the Kaiser of the approach of danger ; so, at least,
the natives assert, and implicitly believe.
Simple and inexperienced as are the habits of
the old Susuhunan, his exchequer has been so low
of late that he has been constrained in many in-
stances to borrow. In fact, matters had arrived at
such a pitch before I left, that the tradespeople
would neither sell, nor give credit for anything
demanded by the members of the Imperial Court,
without a written order from the Resident.
The Susuhunan generally drives through the
THE RUMA. 77
Kraton once or twice every clay in a shabby yellow
car, the shape of a boat, with poles at the four
corners, supporting a leathern canopy. His minis-
ters, and not unfrequently his daughters and grand-
children, accompany him, apparently more content
in this simple turn-out than in his grand state
carriages, ])haetons, or broughams, of which he has
no less than one hundred cuid Jiftij !
lie is so much a state prisoner that he cannot
drive beyond tlie Kraton without acqviainting the
Resident with his intention, and reporting, on his
return, tlie places he has been to.
On Mondays and Thursdays he sits in the Pon-
(lo])()^ where lie receives salutations and good wishes
from liis subjects, pi'omotes his ofHcers of state,
and attends to the reports of his Kegents, Tumum-
fT()iin;s. I'aiiixerans, and Wodonos.
IJeyond the Pi-iiigitan stands the Kuma, or
palace. From the ceiling of tlie verandah hung
numbers of caiKk'lubi'as, but, as tiie doors and
78 LIFE IX JAVA.
windows were all closed, we could see nothing more
of the interior.
Behind the female portion of the royal family
were seated several dancing girls and attendants,
holding the tumpat syree, &c., ready, at a nod or
look from one of the family, to envelope the
necessary ingredients in a betel leaf. Their dress
was very simple, something similar to that of the
bride I before described the sarong, which passed
over the chest and under the arms, concealing the
bosom, but leaving the shoulders and neck entirely
bare. This garment was confined round the waist
by a long scarf, called the stagen. The move-
ments of these girls, as well as of any one who
approached within a prescribed distance of the
Kaiser, were very peculiar. Whenever they were
required to minister to the wants of his majesty,
or of the ladies, they craM'led with knees doubled
so that the heels almost touched the nether part of
the thighs. IIow they managed to move along I
FORMS OF OBEISANCE. 79
cannot think ; to us the attitude seemed a painfully
constrained and awkward one, and it is only, I
should fancy, habit -which can perfect them in this
way of balancing their bodies, as, holding the
article they may have been desired to fetch, they
crawl from place to place, moving their arms, and
never so much as suffering the knee to touch the
ground, though within an inch of it.
The royal family were very affable, and con-
versed with us for some time. After we had been
there about half an hour, tea was handed round,
with the agreeable accompaniment of milk, an
addition which was now made from their better
knowledge of European taste.
Several servants, or men about the court, entered
the court-yard during our interview, either out of
curiosity, or in ])ursuit of their various avocations.
All who came within twentv vards or so of the
Pririgitan, fell on their knees, and made olieisance
to the Susuhun.'Ui by raising both hamls, clasped
80 LIFE IN JAVA.
as though in prayer, till on a level with their nose.
However frequently the same individual passes
and repasses, this form must be repeated.
Wishing to have a bird's-eye view of the whole
Kraton from the watch-tower, a short way beyond
the vestibule, we were conducted to this building
by one of the numerous mestizo officers in the
household of the Susulmnan. These mestizos are
generally taller than the Javanese, and slightly
fairer, but their features, almost without exception,
are of the indisputable native t}^e.
On our way back to the vestibule we passed
several large cannons, some of which are so old
tliat no one can tell how they came into the island.
One of them, which is said to have belonged to the
Sultan of Padjang, had an inscription in native
characters. This cannon is dignified by the appel-
lation of " sapu-jagatj" sweeper of the earth, and
is reverenced by the natives as a dispenser of good
and evil dreams. The following inscription Avas
TKADITION OF A CAXXOX. 81
on two others of smaller dimensions : '' Conraet
Antoniz me fecit. Ilacoe, 1599." Above the trun-
nions are two eagles and a castle, and below these
figures tiie words, '' Middleburg and Jacop Beurel,
Burgomeister.'' In the Sitingil we were shown
the celebrated Xgaisatomy. There is a curious tra-
dition concerning another gun, the Kyhaisatomy,
which is said to have travelled across the country
to JJatavia without the aid of man or beast. .\1-
tliough brouglit back to Soerakarta, and chained
inside the Kraton, so strong was its predilection
for tlie large city that it broke loose in tlu' dead of
night and returned to Batavia, where it remained
Diily iur a .-liort tinu', and \\as on tlie point of h'aving
for some otlur bourne, when it was caught by some
men. Tn manlfot its tHspleasure, it slipped from
their hands ;ind fell on the foot of one of them,
produeuiii elephantiasis. Such was the terror cre-
ateil b\' the niiaginarv jirowess of this 'j:\u\. lliat
men retu.-ed to come near It. It was not until it
vol., 11, (;
82 LIFE IN JAVA.
had been soothed by the prayers of a liadji, that
men Averc able to convey it to the back of the Gov-
ernment warehouse, where we saw it lying on the
ground, bound by strong ship's cables, in order to
restrain its roving propensities. Two other cannon,
j)laced to the right and left of the entrance to this
court, and known as Kemborawo and Kumborawy,
were cast and made in the island.
Our ascent of the watch-tower was very easy,
the openings in the walls admitting plenty of light
to guide us up the spiral staircase which led to
the cupola. From this elevation a pretty good
view of the country beyond Soerakarta is obtained.
To the cast stands the lofty Lawoe, said by the
flavanese " to be seen everywhere." 0]:)posite are
the Marapi and Murbaboo, and beyond the lat-
ter the Sundoro, in the fertile province of Ma-
gelang.
On some of the towers and turrets in the
Kraton wave the roval flac; red with a white
MIRACULOUS UMBRELLA. 83
flower in the centre. The names of the pnncipal
cannons and gates of this fortification are thus ar-
ranged in Javanese rhyme. .
Cannons
Kuniborawo.
KumlJora^\7.
Sapu-jagat.
N gaisatomy.
Gates
Brocljonolo.
Mundunghan.
Siripanganti
. The sacredness and greatness of the present
Emperor of Java was foretokl, as they assert, in
tlu'ir reliiiious books. lie is also said to be the
possessor of an lunbrelUi and sword of wonch'ous
powfr, which has been in liis family for genera-
ti(jiis. The general belief is that, if an individual
touches either of these with an impure liautl, he is
sure to g(j mad !
The Javanese had an ancieut custom of jire-
seuting uinbrcllas U) their chiefs on the day they
G 2
84 LIFE IN JAVA.
were ])ublicly installed in office, a custom which
the Dutch have adopted, or rather revived. The
workmanship and material of the umbrella differs
accordino; to the rank of the official to whom it is
presented. Tims the state umbrella of the Resi-
dent is gilt all over ; the Regent's all but a small
space near the edge ; and the Wodono's less than
the Regent's. Those of the Pangerans, Radens,
and princes of the blood are stuck upon long poles,
and are always held over their heads by one of
their suite whenever any of them go beyond their
own grounds.
Our friends, indcfatigalile in their kind atten-
tions, and anxious that we should see all that was
Avorth seeing during our stay, took us afterwards
to the house of the ^lunko-Negoro, which we had
been invited to visit. This dignitary's estates lie
about half a mile from the Dutch fort, on the road
to Djokdja ; and his house, which is very extensive,
is aj^proached by a long avenue, beyond which, on
THE 3;UXKO-NEGORO S APARTMEXTS. 85
each side, are the houses and huts of liis subordi-
nates. The sentinels stationed at the gate presented
arms as we entered, and, as we droA'e through a
hirge couityard, a number of soldiers Ijeat their
drums on our approach. At the same time four
heralds announced our arrival with the sound of
the trum])et.
The grounds, ovtthouses, and yards presented a
marked contrast to the interior of the Kraton,
being kept in great order and cleanliness. We
stopped at the Pringitan, where we were hospitably
received by the Munko-Xegoro, who, after a little
conversation, conducted us into his ]vuma, or
aj)artnients, separated from thePringitaii merely by
a screen.
We were surprised, on cntei'ing, at the loftiness
(jf the I'ooms, for tlie Javanese generallv delight in
low ceiHng^, and have no objection to close air.
The furniture seemed xcrx ijood and solid, most of
it, I understood, of European manufacture. Tberc
8(5 LIFE IN JAVA.
Avere many articles of curiosity and vertu, and the
Malls Avere hung with Dutch, French, and English
engravings.
A flight of steps on one side conducted us to a
platform, leading into three small side-rooms,
which are only made use of on the occasion of a
wedding. The centre or principal one is appro-
priated to any legitimate male or female child of
the Munko-Xegoro on the bridal night, whilst the
two smaller ones are for his children by bondays,
or concubines, on similar occasions.
From this room we were conducted by a side
door into a large garden, suiTOunded by two low
ranges of houses, in which the women of the
seraglio, with their children and attendants, live.
We did not see any of these females, however, as
they arc always kc])t in seclusion, only the one
lawful wife being ever seen in public. I remarked
in the garden one very fine Kamoony tree, the
flower of which is white, and very fragi'ant.
THE MUNKO-NEGORO. 87
The wood is used in Tringaiiu for sword and kriss
hilts.
After partaking of tea and cakes, we all walked
across the court vard to see the Munko-Xe<i;oro"s
coach-house. The men in the yard saluted the
prince in the manner before described, all going
down on their knees the moment they observed his
approach. They also retired to make room for our
j)arty, crawling away to what they considered a
respectful distance, and then resuming their up-
right position.
The Munko-Xegoro, like all Javanese, not only
chewed the betel-nut, but also disfigured his large
mouth with the ball of tobacco between the under
lip and the gum. His sun, wlujin we saw at the
rece]iti(jn, was lic-re with his father, and when we
ascended the Pringitun, he Irft his sandals a little
ab<)\e the >t(in<' stcj)s. Some of the ministers and
<)th<;r courtiers ])la<-cd theirs behind tlid^e of the
young prince, their succession being arranged
88 LIFE IN JAVA.
according to the rank of each individuaL None
hut the jNIunlvo-Negoro wears anything on the feet
whilst walking across or sitting on the Pringitan;
and, unless the prince makes a sign to that effect,
neither the son nor the ministers ever think of
sitting in his presence. His wife, the Tuan Ratu,
the only female we saw, was rather good-looking,
fairer than most Javanese women, with a quantity
of jet-black hair and very small hands. When
we had seen all that was calculated to interest and
amuse us, we shook hands with our entertainers
and drove off, their kind wishes of a slamat jalan
" pleasant journey" ringing in our ears.
CHAPTER IV
l;OAD TO DJODJOKAUTA TIIi: OLD KUATOX ClIAXOr; OF SMTA-
TIf)N' F.VEIIY rKXTn;V KL'IXS OK liUAMI'.AXAX TEMPI.K OF
KALASSAX TOWX OF D.IOKDJA KIXl) KKCFI'TIOX BALL AT
THK SrLTAX"s FALACF VISFf OF MY WIFK TO TllF SKHACLIO
I'ASSAI; (JFDDF THK KLMOrOO AMl',OL()F;0 COOXIX(;. oi:
YELLOW VIF.OIXS MYSTFUIOL'S SLAIi XLMKKOl'S TKADITIOXS
TALK OF TYKAXXY (.iEXEKOUS SYMFATHY OF A JAVAXESK
filLL FIS KEWAUl).
91
CHAPTER IV.
Our first post on the road to Djodjokarta was
Karta-soera, named from tlie first old Kraton, the
nuns of wliich, but a short distance from the road,
present notliiu^ of interest, as httle remains to be
seen l)ut k)\v bare walls. It was a custom with
Javanese princes to change the situation of the
royal residence every hundred years. A new
Kraton thus awaited the whole connnunity, who
made, their exodus from their old home, carryin<T
witli them all the woodun materials reipiisite to
erect a new one on the site allotted to each.
Some wav further on we ])asst'd a kind of raised
circus, walled in l)y nuid mounds, and overgrown
with gi-ass. In this place the ])rinces, as in days
92 LIFE IX JAVA.
gone by, mount their ponies, and practise the use
of their sundjata, or native arms.
At the sixtli post we alighted and walked to see
the ruins of the temples of Brambanan, a short
way off. On either side of the path, which
branches off from the main road, were low
pillars at equal distances from each other, now half
buried in soil and rubbish, but which must at one
time have had an imposing effect, when unbroken
and free from earth and debris. This path, as we
soon discovered, must have been ascended origi-
nally by means of a low flight of steps, which have
now all sunk into the earth. On reaching its
tennination, we were surprised to find a great
number of buildings, most of them in ruins,
situated on a plateau, and occupying an extensive
space. These are all that remain of the temples,
eight in number, which stood in a circular form,
and averaged from thirty to one hundred feet in
height. The two situated at the radius of the
ANCIENT TEMPLES. 93
circle, are the largest of the group, one of which
is known us the temple of Larajonkgrang, " the
pure exalted ^'irgin."
Like others we had already seen, these sacred
buildings are built of hewn trachyte, and
the main features of the architecture are simple
enougli. Each temple stands u])on a basement
])rop()rtionate to its size, that which we ascended
being from six to seven feet from the ground.
Niches filled with fiL^res are arranged on each
side, and elaborate carvings ornament the exterior
in eveiy direction. Four great flights of steps
lea<l to this basement, from wliich smaller ones
<-onduct to fanes standing one above another, the
highest surmounted witli a supersti'ucture Hke a
>\n;i]\ lower or jivramid.
Entering the lir.-; of tliese fanes, we found a
cliamlic!' about six U-ni sipiai'c, with a pyramidally
formed roof, about twenty feet from the floor.
The figure of Durga, or, as sht; is called here,
94 LIFE IN JAVA.
Larajonkgranf:^, the Minerva of the ancient Bud-
dhists, is cut out of a solid block of stone.
She is represented in a standin^r position, with
a great number of arms, which, like branches,'
spring out in various directions from the body.
On her head is a crown, and round her neck
and waist are carved chains and ornaments of
different kinds.
In each of her hands she holds some instrumnet,
or implement of defence, transformation, and pro-
tection. In the first, to the right, is a chakra, or
wheel, supposed to have small mirrors between each
of the spokes, from the periphery of Avliich issue
flames of fire. AVith this the Javanese say she could,
like Metra, Neptune's misti'css, transform herself
and others into whatever shape she pleased. The
second brandishes a sword, the third a paiiah, or
arrow, renowned for swiftness and its cfiicacy in
raising the dead to life. The first, on the left,
holds an object called a clotoJc, or shell, with
CURIOUS FIGURES. 95
^Yinors attached, the use of which my informant
was not aware of. The second bears a shield,
supposed to be invulnerable, as well as pos-
sessincT the property of concealing anyone from
view.
This figure stands on the back of a bull, called
Sapigumaran, the tail of which the goddess holds
with one of her right hands, while with the corre-
sponding one, on the other side, she clutches the
curly locks of Mahesasura, the imp, or personifica-
tion of vice, as tliough determined to holil him fast,
spite of his devilries.
Ilenco we ascended another fliglit of ste])s, and
proceeding in a circular direction, entered a second
fane, in wliicli we recognized our old friend Siewah,
tiic ElepliantiiH' deity to whom we were introduced
at Singosiiri. Mounting a few more spiral steps,
we came to another of these small ehaml)(.'rs, at the
end of which was the figure of a man, the bright
vellow colouriniT of which was evidentlv of recent
96 LIFE IN JAVA.
date. His upper lip and cliin being furnished with
moustaches and beard, and his left ear with several
ear-rings, I at once concluded him to be a native of
India. From his neck hangs a chain of large
beads, which he is apparently in the act of count-
ing with his right hand. Resting against the breast
of the figure is a kind of switch, very similar to
those I have frequently seen carried by Bengalees
in Calcutta to keep the flies off. He wears a coni-
cal shaped hat, and has a trident behind him, the
meaning of which I could not understand. This
figure is known as Kihaibudor, and is much
venerated by the Javanese, who, in consequence of
his having been the first convert to Islamism in the
island, and very zealous in converting others to the
faith, come here in great numbers to make vows.
The steps leading to another fane still higher up
were so broken, and the chamber itself appeared so
full of stones, &c., which had fallen in from the
roof, that it was impossible to enter it.
TEMPLE OF KALASSAX. 97
From this elevation we had a fine view of tlie
surrounding country, and of the temples and
ruins below us. Opposite to that in which we
stand, is the one next in size. Near tlie road
leading to Chundevsewu, a large space of ground
is covered with temples and several tanks. On
a clear day the tower of Chundeysewu is dis-
tinctly visible, being only about a mile and a half
distant. It is situated amidst a plantation of trees,
and is differently ct)nstructed from the buildings of
IJrandjanan. Its ])rinci[)al entrance is guarded by
two enormous figures in stone, holding sw(jrds in
tlieir hands, and \ery much like the large cnies we
saw at Siiigosari.
About a luile fi'ttiii Urandjanan we ])ass('d the
temple of Kalassaii, a large, solid-looking building,
with four ]ii-iiicipal entrances, and niches for
figuro ou both sides. The chandlers within are
vei'ydark and gloomy, and the figures in them few
and insignificant. The temple is situated in the
vol.. II. H
98 LIFE IN JAVA.
middle of rice and cane plantations, and, unlike
Brambanan, mortar has been used to cement the
trachyte together. The tower is A^ery much
dilapidated, and in many parts the ruins are
overgrown by weeds, grass, and shrubs.
Between the seventh station and Djokdja, we
jiass Gavan, the country-retreat of the Sultan,
which, until six years ago, was the annual place of
interview between him and his " elder brother,"
the Susuhunan. They came in great pomp and
state, and, following an old-established custom, the
younger sovereign sat on the ground, and, after a
short preliminary ceremonial had been gone
through, approached the throne without his sandals,
knelt, and paid homage, or honnaht, to the "ob-
ject of adoration." As these interviews drew a
large number of peo])le together, the Dutch thought
it expedient to discontinue them ; and, in order to
reconcile the Sultan to this, represented to him
that, so long as a prince rendered homage to another.
DJOKDJA. 99
neither lie nor his subjects could be considered by
Europeans truly independent. On the next occa-
sion the ceremony was discontinued.
On the day appointed, the Susuhunan was sur-
})rised to find the Sultan, contrary to all precedent,
dressed in military uniform, and seated on a chaii"
next to his throne, from which he neither seemed
inclined to move, nor indicated the slig'htest inten-
tion of repeating what he now regarded as most
humiliating to one of his dignity. Although the
superior prince at first felt insulted beff)re the
I'ves of his ])eople, he soon wisely reconciled him-
self to the necessary change, an<l entered into con-
versation witli those near him as if nothing to
ti'(ubl(! him had occurred. Tlie friendly mectino-s
of the two so\-ereigns. which had been looked foi--
wai'd to each \cai- by their subjects as a day ot I'e-
joiciiig and ))leaMire. were thus brought to an end.
Fi\-e miles furtlu'r ti'a\('lliiig bi-oiiglit us to the
town of Jidsja, wliieh tlie Duteh write with a 1),
H -1
100 LIFE IN JAVA.
to accommodate the name to their pronunciation.
Driving up to the house of Mr. Z ,the Assistant-
Resident, ^vllo had so kindly invited us when on
board the OenarcuKj, we met witli a reception wliich
dehghted us by its warmth and cordiahty.
His house was buiU, in the interior, somewhat
after the Pompeian style. Several massive pillars
which su})ported the roof divided the hall into a
nave and side aisles. Two doors on each side led
from this into a large, roofed court, in the centre
of which was a small garden of choice flowers,
with an opening in the roof to admit light and
moisture. Hound this court were the private
aj)artments, all lofty, and admirably adapted to a
warm climate.
Djokdja, which has a native population of three
hundred thousand souls, is laid out very much like
Soerakarta, the principal street having the great
sanitary ad\antage of rills of clear water running-
down botli sides of it.
THE KRATOX. 101
The Kraton, and most of the princely residences,
are situated some distance from the town. As our
friends were ^oin^ to a ball at the Sultan's the
evening of our arrival, thev kindlv pressed us to
accompany them. "We accepted the invitation,
and drove to tlie Pondopo in the Kraton, where
a hand was plavinn;. From thence we walked to
the reception liall, which was gaily decorated, and
brilliant with illuminations. This hall, like the
Pringitans T ha\'e 1)ef()re described, was raised
some steps from the ground, and open on three
sides, the fourth being attached to his majesty's
dwelling-jiouse. Chairs were placed all I'ouud for
the eoiivenieiice of the daneeivs when fatigued, and
at thf .-ill" ni';ir the Kuma a Persian I'ug was laid
down, and some moi'e costK-looklni!; ehaiivs foi' the
Suha!!, hi- wiff, th(.' iiesident, and some of the
Snhan's relations.
Ills majestv )!. 'ixed us vcrv coui'tcoush- on
being iuti'uduced In' Mi'. Z . '^I'he evening
102 LIFE IN JAVA.
passed off in dancing and card-playing, the Sultan
taking no part in the former amusement, but en-
tering heartily into the game of vist, for which he
has quite a passion.
As the lamps were all of a veiy primitive de-
scription, they required trimming afresh every two
or three hours. On account of the presence of
royalty, this simple operation was performed with
forms, the novelty of wdiich afforded us much amuse-
ment. Two men, naked to the waist, approached the
gay scene, one bearing a short ladder, the other a
small lamp. Pausing a few yards from the Pringitan,
they made obeisance to the ]-oyal seat, which at the
moment was vacant, its usual occupant being
deeply engaged in his rubber. After bowing three
times nearly to the ground, they raised their two
hands to their face in the manner I have previ-
ously described.
Ascending the steps, the same ceremony was
cone through a second time. The man bearing
CURIOUS ACTS OF OBEISx\.XCE. 103
the ladder then placed it before the first lamp, and
his companion put the light on the top step. Now,
thought I, they will certainly proceed with the
business in hand. But no ; more yet remained to
be done. Turning their faces to the empty chair,
they knelt, bowed, and elevated their hands. One
of them finally ascended the ladder, which was
held for him by the other, and, while actually
trinuning the lamp, repeated the same forms Avliich
had l)een already more than once observed. On
descending, they went through a similar series of
genufiexions, &c., before removing the ladder and
light to the next lamp. These obeisances, with all
the mechanical patience of automatons, they re-
])eated until the tedious work was done, when they
retired Itackwards, saluting the unconscious
monarcli.
As no iiiaii except tlie Stdtan Is j)ennitted witli-
in the ])reciiicts of the seraglio, I will here insert a
descrij)tion from the j)en of my wife, who, by the
104 LIFE IN JAVA.
kindness of ^frs. Z , was enabled to see and
converse with tliese Javanese houries.
In a low kind of bungalow, some distance from
the main building, not, however, so far off but that
we could distinctly hear the sounds of music and
mirth from the joyous scene we had just left, were
assembled several women, mostly very young, and
all dressed in a costly native fashion. Some of
the party were playing a Chinese game of cards.
All looked up on our entrance, but soon resumed
their occupation, alternately playing, chewing
tobacco, betel, and seri leaf, and using their
s])ittoons, one of which was placed by the side of
each person.
Most of them were good-looking, witli magnifi-
cent dai'k eyes, drooping lids, and long, curling
lashes. They make use of an immense quantity of
powder, which, though very glaring, probably tends
to heighten their charms. Their hair was dressed
with care, being all drawn back from the face and
JAVANESE BEAUTY. 105
ari'anged in two loops iDcliind, in wliicli cliumpaka
and niolor flowers wore inserted by some, whilst
others wore diamond pins. The ear v/as made
unnaturally large by immense ear-rings, in shape
exactly like a small cotton reel, about the l^ize of one
of Clarke's number sixty, the centre of each end
being studded with brilliants. The large lioles
through which these singular ornaments were thrust
are bored at a very tender age, and the apertures
are filled from time to time with gradua.lly larger
and heavier ear-rings, until the lobes finally become
so unnaturally elongated.
Unfortunately the beauty of the Javanese in
general is spoilt by the ])revalence of 1)ad noses.
Jt is very rai'clv one comes aci'oss a good nose, but
when that fe;itun' is jx'rfcct, th'' face is u'^ually
jirctty, |ii'ovii|o(I al\va\'s th'' uioutli is ke])t closed,
foi", Iroiii the constant u-e of seri-L^imbier tobacco,
e'vc., theli- tieth iiW. x'ei'v black. '^{"his unfortu-
nately is coiisidei'ed a ln'autw In children, of thii'-
106 LIFE IN JAVA.
teen or fourteen, you see frequently beautiful teeth,
like rows of pearls, either undergoing, or about to
undergo, this disfiguring process.
Amidst the group before us, I was most struck
by a very young girl, whose age, I thought could
not exceed twelve or thirteen, and from whose face,
though she appeared thoughtful, silent, and sad,
the childish look had not yet disappeared. Who
know but that the instinct of her heart already told
her a better destiny might have been hers than
that to which she was probably devoted. She was
doubtless intended to be the new toy of a middle-
aged monarch, and althougli she might revolt against
her lot, she could do nothing to change it. She was
her master's property until he tired of her, and
sought new charms. Most of them, however, looked
cheerful and happy, and I was told, by one who
knew many of them personally, that they are gene-
rally content with their lot, being allowed no end
of finery and silly amusements. Tiu-ning to look
TASSAR GEUDAY. 107
at the numerous birds, Avliich hung in cages around,
I could not help thinking how true was the com-
parison which likened these captive minstrels to the
])oor prisoners who attend to and pet them.
Next moi'ning wo went to see Passar Gedday,
the Kraton built by Senopati Wongologo, contrary
to the command of the Sultan of Padjang. Little
now remains of this once famous place, save the
Kobooran, or cemeterv, consisting of several courts
surrounded by turreted -walls. The gateways
leadiuij; to each of these courts still retain some of
their old stone car\ ings. In the third court there is
a large house, where most of the princes who re-
sided in the Kraton have been interred. From
this we passed through a smaller one, cahed Seli-
ran, where we saw tombs on terraces rising like a
series of ste[s. Descending from these we reached
a small scpiare tank, cf)vered t)ver with a tile roof,
in which there were numbers of l)laf:k fish, similar
to the Simbilang of Singa])ore, called, by the Java-
108 LIFE IN JAVA.
nese, Lalay. Their sting is very venomous, but
they are nevertheless very good eating. Our object
in coming to this tank, however, was not to see the
fish, but some curious white turtles, for which the
natives have a great veneration.
The Avoman who attends to the place asked us
if we would try our luck, to which we readily
assented. She accordingly despatched a girl for
some raw meat, and on her return, fastening a lai'ge
piece to the end of a long stick, she leaned over
the water, and mimiljled a few words, amongst
which we distinguished, " Kiaidudo amboloro
coordug " meaning " the yellow virgins." Recol-
lections of the lake at Gratie came before us, and
expecting a similar result, we were agreeably sur-
prised when we saw ere long a large white turtle,
about two feet long, rise nearly to the surface,
place her fore paws against tlie side, and raise her
head high enough to reach the tempting morsel,
which she seemed thoroughly to appreciate.
STORY OF A EUROPEAN SAILOR. 109
I was anxious to obtain a couple of young
ones, but was told that, on account of their
sacretl character, they were never sold. !Miss
Z , our kind host's daughter, however, suc-
ceeded in ])ersuadinf:; the old woman to ])ro-
cure a l)air, which she promised to bring to the
house.
Retracing our ste})s out of the Kobooran, we
were shown an old portion of the Kraton, where,
under the shade of a large old Verengen tree, I
saw a slab of black stone, raised a foot from the
ground, and about a yard and a half long by one
wide the object of which, from its strange situa-
tion, and the inscription upon it, 1 felt curious to
know. In answer to m\- intpiiries, 1 was told that
a I'hu'()pcan sailor who was shij)wrecked on this
coast had brtii cliaint'd to this stt)iu' b\- ordei" of
the Snltan oi Matarram. "^Die reasons given for
this poor mans punishment were nunurous ; hut
troni a curious inscription in several languages, it
110 LIFE IN JAVA.
would appear that lie was a linguist a qualifica-
tion which suggested to me the idea that he might
possibly have been some missionary whose religious
zeal had excited the suspicion or hostility of the
higher Javanese powers.
To judge from the impression on the slab, I
fancy he must have found a sedentary position
the most comfortable, for the hard stone in
one part is hollowed out like the floor of Cliil-
lon "as if the cold pavement were a sod."
The length of chain allowed him, according to
all appearance, must have been very short.
Some of the stories related by the natives about
this poor victim, though vague and uncertain, are
worth repeating. One is to the effect that the
sailor, when brought before the then reigning
Sultan, refused to humble himself by bending his
knees and paying homage to him an act whicli
so incensed the tyrannical monarch that he at once
ordered him to leave his presence, and afterwards
DIFFERENT ACCOUNTS. Ill
coiidemiicd liim to bo chained for life to that
stone.
A more particuhir account for wliich I am in-
debted to Drahman, Avho gleaned the particulars
from some of the old natives of that locality
makes it appear that, two or three hundred
years ago, a vessel having been wrecked off the
coast of Djodjokarta, the whole of the crew were
lost except this man, who was picked up half dead
on the shore by some fishermen, who took him to
one of their huts, and succeeded in restoring him
to hfe.
The news that a wliite man had been found
under such mclunclioly circumstances soon spread
t"ai' aixl wide, and uiuubfi's flocked to the lisher-
niaii's hut, in order to catch a glimpse of a siglit
more uncommon in those days than ikjw. The
Sidtan of MatariMiii who then reigui'd was a very
cruel, suspicions, and despotic man. Hearing of
the cui'iositv nianife-^ted l)v tlie natives, and fear-
112 LIFE IX JAVA.
in<T that the strano'er mio-lit in time ijain an in-
fluence over tlie minds of his superstitious sub-
jects, he issued a command that the sailor should,
\vithout dehiy, be conveyed to his Kraton. This
order was at once obeyed, and no sooner was the
poor man in his power than lie had him chained to
the black stone, giving it out that he Avas a kind of
sea-spirit of ill-omen, who, to deceive them, had
taken the form of a white man. At the same time
he issvied a proclamation to the effect that whoever
approached the prisoner after dusk should be
severely punished.
At first a couple of sentinels were placed over
him by night and da}' ; but the unfortunate man
conducted himself so quietly, and seemed so resigned
to his fate, that, after a few months, this guard
was dispensed with, and he was left to pass his
nights and days in solitude, the fear witli which
the Sultan inspired all his subjects being so great,
and their belief in his assertion that the man was
THE JAVANESE GIRL. 113
possessed by an evil spirit so assured, that no
native who could avoid it would pass by that way
after dark.
There was one, however, in whose breast the
stranger's forlorn condition awakened feelings of
sorrow and pity. This was a young girl, who, by
signs, managed to make the captive aware of her
commiseration, which she further showed by
stealthily bringing him such delicacies, in the
shape of fruit or food, as her slender purse enabled
her to procure, and, for the protection of his limbs
from tiie night dews, sup[)lying him with a sarong,
which he kept carefully concealed beneath some
leaves Ijy day.
A year or more elapsed, and, the feeling of
sympathy which first actuafed the girl beginning
to ripen into the deeper and more absorbing one
of love, slic conceivcfl the daring ])roject of setting
her lover free. Choosing hci- oppoi'tiinity, she
coiiuiuinicited her ideas to liim. Longing foi'
VOL. H. I
z^.-
114 LIFE IN JAVA.
libertj', he entered lieartily into all her schemes,
without reflecting on the risk to which the devoted
girl was ex})osing herself. She accordingly sup-
plied him with a file, and a small quantity of wax,
mixed with some dark adhesive substance, the ob-
ject of which will presently be seen.
In the dead of night, when all around were
hashed in sleep, the poor prisoner, roused to energy
by this ray of hope, set to work to file the chains
wliich encircled his ankles, working by fits and
starts, in order that the sounds, if heard by a
chance passer-by, might be regarded as the buzz or
whirr of some iusect or night bird. Each night,
after he had done working, having rubbed the pre-
])ared Avax into the palms of his hands, he filled the
groove he had made, thus escaping detection by
daylight.
When, at last, the chains were ground down so
fine that the slightest ])ressure would release his
feet, a night was arranged for their hazardous
ESCAPE OF THE PRISONER. 115
undertaking, and the young girl promised to bring
two krisses one for him, and the other for her-
self.
Silently, but -with a heart full of joy, the cap-
tive broke asunder the now slender link of
his chain, and the fragments fell to the ground
with a crash which made him tremble lest he had
been too precipitate. But the sound died away,
and the unbroken silence of night succeeded.
When he felt once more secure, he fell at the feet
of his deliverer and poured forth his gratitude fur
her generous aid; bnt she, knowing the necessity
for haste, bade him be sik'Ut, and taking his hand,
prepared to leave the spot. Iler anxiety for his
safety, however, made her st()[) suddenly at tiie
rustling of some branches behind them; hut hei'
feai's were s(joii allayed by tlie siglit of a mot^'^ang
Of wild cat running j)ast them, an object wiiich
the girl, in her superstitious fancy, regarded as a
good omen. Hastening by circuitous routes and
I '2
116 LIFE IN JAVA.
lonely paths, they left the town, and made the
best of their way to the unfrequented parts of the
country.
Great was the excitement that prevailed in
Djodjokarta next morning Avhen it was discovered
that the white man had escaped, no one could
imagine how or whither. The Sultan, on hearing
of hi? flight, was greatly enraged, and despatched
his ministers and officers in search of him ;
but all returned to the Kraton without having
been able to obtain a single clue, and the Sultan
was at his wits' end what course tQ pursue. A
native of the town at length brought the intelli-
gence that the escaped prisoner had been seen in
the suburbs with a Javanese girl. The parents
of the young woman were immediately sent for
and questioned, but they were as ignorant of the
circumstances as all present ; their daughter not
having been at home during the morning. As
it was her habit, however, to bathe in the river
PURSUIT OF THE FUGITIVES. 117
with lier companions, frequently absenting herself
from home for lioui's, they had not had the
slightest suspicion or uneasiness until sent for by
the Sultan. Findin*f that no information could be
gained from these poor people, they were dismissed
with a sharp reprimand for not having kept a
better watch on their child.
The Sultan now despatched horsemen in all
directions, with orders to scour the country, and
bring back the fugitives, alive or dead. But the
utmost efforts of the messengers proved fruit-
less, so cautiously had the lovers planned their
movements, always taking the ])recaution to rest
l)y day in some dark forest, and })ursue their
journey by night, until they were fairly beyond
the confines of the kingdom of ^Matarram. After
this tliiy proccede'd more oi)eidy till they reached
the town of JJantam, before the Sultan of which
thiy presented themselves with the story of the
cruelty and tyranny of which tlu' jxjoi- sailor had
118 LIFE IN JAVA.
been the victim. The Sultan readily took up the
European's cause, granted him and his wife pro-
tection, allowed them full liberty to trade, and in
a few years the once destitute sailor became an
influential man.
Whether this account be true, or whether, as
others assert, he dragged on a weary existence as
a captive, and died on the veiy slab to which he
had been for so many years chained, it is im-
possible now to say; but from the fact of the
European characters inscribed on the stone, there
can be no doubt that there is some truth in the
tradition that a native of Europe had thus cruelly
suffered.
CHAPTER V.
THE POURWORAJO KRATOX PALACK OF ARDJOWINAGONG
LARGE SERAGLIO ANECDOTES OF OL'R TURTLES A VISFf TO
TAMANSARIE, OR CHATEAU I/EAU TlIE SPRING TANK OF
SIRAMAN COOL RE(iUEST THE PASSAR MELANCHOLY
DEATH OF A lilUVE YOUNG ENGLISH OFFICER FEMALE
REVENGE CURIOUS CONTRIVANCE TREACHER0T:S HOSPI-
TALITY SWISS CONSPIRACY A MYSTERIOUS FOOT AN EVE-
NING AT THE TUMUX<iONG MERTONEGORO'S ROMANTIC SCENE
WE ARE ENTERTAINED AT PAKOE-ALAM'S WAR DANCES
CLIMATE AND PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY.
121
CHAPTER V.
About two or three miles from the last Kraton
we readied another, built by the grandfather of the
present Sultan, and known as Pourworajo, or " the
conunencement of prosperity ;" though now, from
havinff been Ion"; uninhabited and nefjlected, it
presents an appearance totally at variance with the
name originally given to it. It is quite melancholy
to see the long avenues, once planted so regularly
with fine tall trees, almost choked up with shrubs
and saplings ; the footpaths, formerly well tended,
green with grass, moss, and rank weeds ; the ter-
races, balustrades, and ornamental stone-work, now
broken and dilaj)idated, crumbling under the "brazen
hands of time." JJeyond the fact of its l)eing a
122 LIFE IN JAVA.
ruin, there is little or nothing of interest connected
with the place, nothing to claim more than a pass-
ing glance from the traveller. Ardjowinagong
(signifying " the re-establishment of good fortune")
a large palace, two miles further on, is Avell
deserving of a visit. It is situated near a river,
which we had to cross in order to see the building.
The stream is called by the singular name of Gajah-
orang, or " elephant and man," the origin of which
is explained by the following legend :
A man was once engaged in bathing an elephant
in the river, when a friend, passing by on the oppo-
site bank, stopped to have a few moments' conver-
sation ; during the course of which the man who
was washing the animal remarked to his comrade
how shallow the stream was, so shallow that it was
impossible for such a large, powerful beast as the
elephant to be drowned in it. Scarcely, however,
were the words out of his mouth, when the waters
began to swell rapidly, and before the man and his
TALACE OF ARDJOWIXAGOXG. 123
gajali could gain the bank, they were swept away
by the force of the stream and drowned.
The frrounds about the pahice of Ardjowinagont];
have been very tastefully laid out. Fountains,
ornamental tanks, artificial streams, flights of steps,
and pillars abound on all sides, though now in
many parts broken and gone to decay from time
and neglect.
The entrance to the palace is across two large
courts, the first of which is called TJmbohl, from a
spring bubbling in the centre of a pond. The in-
terior of the building reminded me somewhat of a
monastery. Except a few large rooms on the ground
floor, the apartments, of which the nixmber is
cf>nsidt'rable, are very small. The two wings, or
towers, are covered with creepers and parasites,
which extend their green covering, also, over part
of the main buildinir.
I could not ascertain exactly by whom this |)alace
was buiU, but I was told that the Sultan who oc-
124 LIFE IN JAVA.
cupied it for some time was the possessor of no less
tliau two hundred concubines ; and I think it is not
improbable that the same personage ordered and
planned the erection, as the great number of small
rooms would seem to favour the idea that the
building, when inhabited, was occupied by an
unusually numerous household.
On our return to the house of Mr. Z , I
found that the old woman had brought the turtles,
and consigned them to the keej)ing of Drahman,
who, on seeing me, said,
"It is quite useless, sir, attempting to keep
these."
" Why?" replied I ; " won't they stand the jour-
ney?"
" Oh, yes," he answered, looking very grave ;
" that would not signify ; but what I mean, sir, is,
they will not stay it is their habit always to return
to the place they are taken from."
Thinking the man was only trying to dissuade
ESCAPE OF THE TURTLES. 125
me from taking them, in order to save himself the
trouble of attending to them on the road, I merely
added
^' Well, never mind, put them in a tub, we will
try."
And with a good-natured smile at what he
considered my incredulity, he went in search of an
earthen pot, in which, half filling it with water, he
left the young turtles to swim at pleasure.
While we were sipping our chocolate, about six
next morning, a knock was heard at the door.
" Come in,'' 1 said; and in walked Drahman.
'' Well, Drahman, what is it you have to say?'' said
I, ])crceiving I)y his face that he considered himself
to be the Ix-arer of some iinj)()rtant information.
" They are gone, sir! they are off! They'll be
home again by this time; you know, sir, I said so,"
" Oil! the turtlc>," n'j)lied 1, guessing wliat he
meant. '' ^^ iiy, how did they go? Let me see it
lias been raining all night, lias it not? Did you
126 LIFE IN JAVA.
cover the vessel they were in, or bring tlieni into
the house ?"
" No, sir, you never told me to do so."
"Tlien, that is why they are gone, Drahman,"
said I, h\ughing, in spite of my disappointment, at
his superstitious notions ; " the water rose as it
rained, and the vessel once full their escape was
very easy."
"I never thought of that;" said Drahman, retir-
ing from the room without that triumphant ex-
pression on his face which it had worn when he
entered.
Through the kindness of my friends I obtained
two more turtles, one of which died on its passage
back to Singapore ; and the other from an acci-
dental fall during our stay at Bath, which was the
more disappointing as it had then been nearly two
years in my possession. There is no specimen of
the kind in the Zoological Gardens.
A short drive beyond the fort brought us to the
CASTLE OF TAMANSARIE. ]27
Castle of Tamansarie, wliicli, from its beintr sur- -
rounded with water, the Dutch call the Chateau d'Eau.
On alightini^ from the carriage, we passed through
an old gateway, and walked to a kind of Pondopo,
from whence we were conducted by the juru
cooncliee to a terrace commanding the best view of
this singular palace. It is a heavy pile of buildings.
The ends of each roof are turned uj) in the Chinese
style of architecture. The palace is situated in the
centre of an artificial lake, the springs of which
are now in many parts dried up, leaving the bed
only partially covered with wat.'r, and in some parts
overgrown by tall weeds, gi\ing it more the appear-
ance of a marsh than of a lake. The only means
of ingress an<l egress is through a tiumel, or sub-
terraneous passage, lit by four small towers or
turrets. The one near the centre, being nuieh
higher than the rest, was probably used as a post
of observation.
Ila\ing traversed this passage, we ascended a
128 LIFE IN JAVA.
flight of steps and entered through the principal
gate, the ornaments of which are in the Arabesque
style. We walked through several of the deserted
rooms and corridors. The sole article of furniture
left in the palace is the bed of Sultan Hamanku
Bewono lY., a low, long four-poster, with traces of
gilding on many parts. Some of the rooms had
even been divested of their flooring, the planks
having been removed to other houses. Those Avhich
remain shew signs of having once been painted
and partially gilt.
After passing through a number of courts in a
lower part of the building, we were conducted down
another flight of steps leading to a tunnel, at the
end of which we came into a kind of circular-
shaped court, with a large tank in the centre, and
a gallery all round, supported by arches. This
tank is known as the Sumoor Gamalan (" musical
spring"), and is something similar to a bath-house
in the grounds of the Rajah of Burdwan, in India.
GENERAL DAENDELS. 129
Retracing our steps, we passed through large courts,
ornamented with devices of serpents, flowers, &c.,
on the walls, and large vases with orange-trees
on each side of the foot-path, showing that Taman-
sarie must once have been the abode of wealth and
luxur}'. It is said that the Sultan who erected
this chateau did so with the idea that no Euro-
])ean could penetrate into the interior without
the guard being well aware in time to warn those
within to close the passage. This precaution was
taken chiefly against General Daendels, whose cha-
racter for temerity, almost approaching to rashness,
was quite a proverb among the natives. Accord-
ingly, when that general came, to make him the
Sultan sign a treaty Avhich he had often pro-
mised to ratify, and as frequently deferred, with
trifling excuses, the native prince, ]x;rfectly safe
as he imagined, and surrounded by faithful soldiers,
felt himself quite aljle to play his own part witli his
ojtponent.
VOL. H. R
1 30 LIFE IN JAVA.
On tliG day appointed for the interview which
was to take place a short way from Tamansarie
Daendels and his officers waited in vain for the
arrival of the Sultan, who deferred his appearance
from hour to hour, sending excuses which, if not
believed, were at least tolerated. Ere long, how-
ever, the delegates began to see that they were
only a laughing-stock to the crowd, which momen-
tarily increased in number news of the intended
interview having spread far and near.
Daendels, irritated by the delay, knit his brows,
and ordering two of his aides-de-camp to follow,
forced his wav throuo-li the mass of human beings,
and, walking to the subteri'aneau passage that led
to the chateau, boldly entered it without meeting
with any opposition, as such a stej) had been wholly
unlooked for. From here he penetrated into the
audience hall, where the Sultan was seated, sur-
rounded by his courtiers and officers, with whom
lie was in deep consultation.
HUMILIATING SITUATION. 131
The appearance of Daendels cut short the deljate,
and for a moment tlie assembled group seemed
turned to stone, so petrified were they b}' the un-
expected appearance of this brave man, who walked
straight up to the Sultan, and, seizing him by the
arm, compelled the astonished monarch to accom-
pany him.
The situation, as may be well imagined, must
have been a very humiliating one for the crafty
Sultan, who, doubtless, would have offered some
resistance, were it not for his knowledge of a
European force then encamped outside the town.
Making, therefore, the best of it, now that he
coukl no longer frame any excuse, he ordered tlu;
Gamakui and musicians to proceed ; and, followed
bv his suite, k-ft the castle with Daendels.
.Anxious to nud'Cc it ap])car it was a voluntary act
on his J)art, he at once signed the treaty with tlic
Dutch, which he had so long endeavoured to
avoid.
Iv -1
132 LIFE IN JAVA.
From anotlier source I was informed that
Daendels actually dragged him out of bed, in
order to compel him to fulfil his promise. The
bed the very one we saw was ever after consi-
dered unlucky by the Javanese, and consequently
never used. If this be true, it accounts for its
being left in its present position, when every other
moveable article was removed.
I cannot say which of these accounts is the true
one, but there is no doubt whatever that Daendels
entered the castle in the manner I have related, and
forced the slippery Sultan to sign the treaty. The
incident has been handed down by tradition even
amongst the natives, by whom Daendels is still
spoken of as a most daring man.
The spring tank of Siraman is about a mile
from the town, and belongs to one of the present
Sultan's ministers. It is situated in a beautiful
garden, and fed by two running streams. In the
centre stands a fountain with quaint relievos. A
IXTERVIEW WITH TWO SOLDIERS. 133
few feet below the level of this is a shower-batli.
The water runnino; from the tank falls on the bather's
head, after passing through the mouth of a peacock
cut out of stone. On each side of this are two figures,
in form half woman and half prawn. These are
the Javanese mermaids, called orang ayxi. Here
we had a delightful bath, reminding one of those
enjoyed by the luxurious Moors of Granada, or the
Persians in the time of Sultan Ali Ven Moussah.
On our return we perceived two soldiers walking
u]) and down before the house in which we were
domiciled. As we approached, and were about to
enter, they came u}) and asked most respectfully to
see Mr. Z , as they wished to speak to him very
particularly for a few minutes. Mr. Z , l)eing
made acquainted with their request, and concluding
it to be some matter of importance, desired them to
go to his Kontoor, where, as he afterwards related
to us, the following dialogue took j)lace :
" \\'ell, my men, what do you want ?"
134 LIFE IN JAVA.
" Please, sir," replied the man who had spoken
first, *' we left the fort this morning and have now
missed three calls, and, sir, we want you just to
help lis a bit."
Here he stopped and looked at his comrade,
in the expectation that he would help him out
with his story; but as he only looked down and
said nothing, the first speaker began to rub the
peak of his shako as though he were polishing it
for ])arade.
" Well, I can do nothing for you that I see,"
said Mr. Z , beginning to wonder what they
meant; "you have absented yourselves without
lea^e, and must abide by the consequence. I can't
assist you ; but my advice is, return immediately to
the fort, for if the day passes over you may be
considered as deserters."
" Yes, sir," answered the man, " we know that,
and intend going back at once, but we want your
help."
PURCHASE OF JUNGLE FOWL. 135
" My help I I tell you it is impossible."
" No, sir, it is not, excuse me," said lie getting
bolder, " all we want is a little gin, to enable us to
bear our punishment like bra\'e men ! "
One morning we went to see the market, where
native and imported crockery, linen, vegetables, fish,
meat, fowls, and fruit were displayed in abundance.
As I observed some ayam alas, or jungle fowl, to be
sold, I purchased a pair, and though repeatedly told
by my frii'uds that they were too delicate to survi\e
the voyage to Europe, I lioj)ed, by some good luck,
to bring them over safely. They were the size of
Sebriglit's bantams, the cock ha\ing dark blue
feathers on the breast, and tail tijiped with gold,
briglit yellow hackles, black beak an<l legs, and comb
of a bluish tinge. The hen was very like our Ik'U
pheasants, but much smaller, and with a nuicli less
lu'illiant ])lumage than that of the male bird.
They are very timid, and rai'cly tamed.
Notwithstanding all our care and attention, feed-
136 LIFE IN JAVA.
in^ them on grasshoppers and wild herbs, one died
on the journey, the other some months after, at
Singapore.
Beyond the passar, or market, is the campong
cheena; and further on we came to a cemetery,
where we saw several monuments erected to the
memory of those Englishmen who fell at the suc-
cessful assault of the Kraton in 1812.
A column, sculptured, or rather, I should say,
cemented over with designs of leaves and flowers,
attracted our attention, as marking the last earthly
resting-place of a " brave and gallant youth," who,
at the assault, was one of the first to penetrate into
the private apartments of the Sultan. Breaking
his way through a wooden door which barred his
progress, he came suddenly upon an unexpected ob-
ject in the person of a dark-eyed Javanese girl, who,
from some cause unknown, had been left behind
when the Sultan and his court made their hasty exit.
Unlike Gonsalvo de Cordova, who, when he found
CURIOUS LAMP. 137
himself in a similar situation at the assault of
Jaen, dismounted from his horse, kissed the fair
and trembling hand, and then joined his men, he,
\vithout pausing to consider the imprudence of the
act, rashly seized the girl by the waist, and at-
tempted to carry her away by force, a design in
which he was defeated. The princess, as she
turned out to be, irritated at the capture of her
father's Kraton, and the insult now offered to her-
self, stabbed the young officer in the neck with a
kriss she wore concealed in the folds of her sarong,
inflicting a wound from the effects of which he
died shortly after.
A relative of our host's gave us a lamp so very
primitive in its construction, that, had we not been
told, we should never have imairined the use to
which it was put. It consisted of a little box, cut
out of a solid piece of wood, in the form of a leaf,
and slightly hollowed out in the middle. A
close-fitting lid, ])laccd over it, can be shifted
138 LIFE IN JAVA.
from side to side by means of a small pivot at one
end. When used it is filled with a dark adhesive
substance. This simple but ingenious lamp was
made use of by a daring housebreaker in a most
singular manner. Prior to sallying forth on his
nightly Avork of depredation, he placed several
fire-flies in the hollow of the box, which he carried
in a small bamboo cylinder, with a kind of wooden
stopper to prevent the insects from flying away,
and with slits cut in the sides to admit air. From
this he replenished his box or lamp, when he per-
ceived the light was not so bright as he wished it
to be, and on account of the adhesive substance to
which their legs became glued, the flies which gave
the light were unable to escape.
When he succeeded in entering a house, he hid
himself in some out-of-the-way place, and waited
until he felt sure all the inmates were fast asleep.
Then pushing the lid of his box aside, to give himself
light, he stealthily moved from room to room, ap-
THE murderer's VICTIMS. 139
propriating ever article of value which came within
his reach. The moment he heard the slightest
noise, ho closed the lid, and, in the darkness which
followed, took to flight.
By this means, as he afterwards confessed, lie
had for seven years successfully plundered the
honest gains of others, llis boldness increasing
with success, inspired him with a rash confidence
in his lucky star, which finally led to his discovery
and apprehension.
One day, as he was idly lounging before his
door, two women from the country, Avho had come
to Djokdja in order to dls])0se of some articles they
had bnnight with them, stopj)ed, and showed him
their wares. On entering into conversation, the
man learnt that they were ])erfect strangers to the
town, and, as they seemed anxious to secure a
lodging, he, with great apparent hosj'itality, re-
fpiested them to enter into his house, where he
showed them a njoni, which, he said, they might
140 LIFE IN JAVA.
look upon as their own during the time they stayed
in Djokdja.
After partaking of a hearty meal, for which
these poor creatures expressed themselves most
grateful to their host, they all withdrew, the man
advising them, ere he retired, to be sure and keep
their goods and gains under the pillow, for, as he
said, " no one knows who might enter by night."
The women, who were much fatigued, were
soon buried in profound slumber. The wretch,
having ascertained this, entered the room armed
with a large staff, with whicli he struck his victims
on the head. Wounded, but not deprived of life,
they utterred a few faint screams, and the man, to
prevent them from alarming the neighbourhood,
held the pillows tightly over their mouths until life
was extinct. Then, wrapping the bodies up in
matting, he carried them to the back of his house
where there was a very deep well, into which, after
tying a stone round the neck of each, he dropped
MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE. 141
tliem ; and having thus, as he thought, secured his
safety, he retiirned to look over his unlawful gains.
Several weeks passed withovit a shadow of sus-
picion of this infamous murder. The wretch, con-
fident in his safety, and fearing no detection, pur-
sued his wicked course of life as actively as ever.
In the meantime, the friends and relations of the
murdered women began to grow very uneasy at
their lengthened stay from home, and to make in-
quiries about them. In none of the villages near
had they been seen for weeks, but many had ob-
served them enter Djokdja, and some had even
bought goods from them. No one, however, had
seen either the one or the otlier leave the j)lacc,
nor did any one remember his having seen them
after tlic day of their arrival.
This mysterious disaj)pearance, which l^cgan to
be the princi])al topic of conversation, at hist came
to the knowledge of the poHce. A knot of idlers
were one day discussing the matter opposite the
142 LIFE IN JAVA.
liousG of an old blind man who lived near the un-
known murderer. Hearing the subject of their
conversation, the old man listened, and soon be-
came interested in the sad story, upon which he
felt con\-inced that he could throw some light. He
accordingly joined the persons before his door, and
that they might converse in greater safety, invited
them into his house, where he informed them that
about the time these poor women were first missing
he was outside his door till a late hour one night,
refreshing himself in the cool air, when he heard,
issuing from the adjacent house, two or three faint
screams, as of a woman crying for help. He was
on the point of going in to tell his wife, when, the
screams dying away, he concluded that they had
only proceeded from some woman who had been
chastised by her husband ; and, therefore, beyond
a passing remark to his wife, made no mention of
the matter.
The police, being informed of this, their sus-
COXSriRACY OF SWISS SOLDIERS. 143
])icion fell on the murderer. His house was
searched, the well was dragged, and the two bodies
found. A damning evidence against him was the
staff, also smeared with blood, which the wTetcli
had carelessly thrown into an exposed corner. lie
was taken, tried, and condemned to be publicly
hanged. A short time before his end he made a
confession, in which he detailed at length the
means by which he had been so long enabled to
accom})lish in safety his deeds of crime and vio-
lence.
About three years previous to our visit the in-
habitants of Djokdja were thrown into a great
state of consternation by a conspiracy to overthrow
the Dutch. The plot was formed by several Swiss
soldiers wiio served in the arm\', most of whom
had inlisted shortly after the disl)andment of our
foreign legion, ha\iiig been encouraged to go
aljro.'id to Ijandjamassiiig l)y promises of active
service and rapid ])romotion.
144 LIFE IN JAVA.
On their arrival, however, they were, contrary
to their expectation, drafted into regiments doing
garrison duty at the different forts in the island,
especially those of Soerabaya, Samarang, Salatiga,
Ambarrawa, Solo, and Djokdja. Some of them
patiently bore this disappointment, and made up
their minds to serve out the time without a
murmur. Others, however, who were more irri-
tated by the deception which had been practised
upon them, readily listened to the bold but mad
projects of one Borjot, a clever, intelligent, and
determined man, who proposed to massacre all the
Dutch in the island, and to make Java a republic
like their beloved Switzerland.
This man, having first sounded the sentiments
of those in the other garrisons, and finding only
too many glad to accept his propositions, fixed the
day and hour when, in each place, the foreign
soldiers should rise simultaneously and massacre
every one of Dutch blood, extending mercy only
"WARNING or DANGER. 145
to tlic young wives and daughters, whom they in-
tended to appropriate to tlieinselves.
The night fixed upon was one of gaiet}-. The
Duteli, ignorant of any approacliing danger, wei'e
enjoying themselves at a grand ball given by the
Ivesitlent. The pleasure of the evening was at its
height, when an old lady, seated in the verandah
of her house, wlu'eh was close to that of the Resi-
dency, and listening to the nuisic, was suddenly
startle(l by the unex})ected ajtpearance of a soldier,
who, a))])ai'ent]y nui(;h excited, addressed her, to
her great alarm, in a whisper.
" Madame;, I am so glad to ha\e seen some one.''
5aid he. " Foi' God's sake send somebody to warn
all who arc at th'' iJi'sideiicv of the apj)roach-
uig danger; tell them to leave the house at once, or
they will all b.' murdered. I l)e!ong to the party,
but I cnuiot do if, I eannot bear to thiid< of it,
now the time h;is c()nie."
The ladv, to whom this incoherent spt'cch aj)-
VOL. II. I.
146 LIFE IN JAVA.
peared like the ravings of a maniac, or the sense-
less talk of an intoxicated man, at first listened in-
credulously, and treated the warning lightly, but
when the soldier persisted in the truth of what he
had said, and insisted on the necessity for losing
no time, she began to think there might be some
foundation for his extraordinary statement ; and as
he would not leave until he had fully convinced
her of the truth of what he had revealed, she pro-
mised to dispatch a servant immediately to the
Residency.
The Resident, on receiving the message, care-
fully concealed its purport from all his guests, ex-
cept the officers from the fort. To these he com-
municated without delay the knowledge of the
peril in which they stood, advising them to proceed
as cautiously as possible, in order to secure the
persons of the rebels before they could have the
slightest idea that their intended victims had been
made acquainted with the murderous design.
CONSPIRATORS SEIZED. 147
The officers, concealing the consternation into
which such an astoundinix revelation had thrown
them, followed the directions of the Resident, and
quietly withdrawing from the gay throng, pro-
ceeded Avith their commander in great rapidity to
the fort, the gates of which were noiselessly closed
as soon as they were within the walls.
Every Swiss sentinel was disarmed and taken
prisoner by Dutch and native soldiers. The be-
wildered conspirators were seized in their barracks,
and forced to lay down their arms. A few shots
were fired, but so great was the excitement and
terror causi-d by the unexpected discovery, that the
conspirators who discharged them could take no
certain aim, and they were conse(piently harndess.
Telegrams were immediately sent to warn the com-
mandants at the other forts of the; impending
danger. 7\t Snra])aya, the men's fire-arms were
removed whih' they were asleeji, so that, on
awukin<5 about miihii'dit, thev found themsehes
L 2
14b LIFE IN JAVA.
unable to cany out their deadly purpose. The
following morning, Borjot and a knot of the ring-
leaders were tried, found guilty, and executed
before the gates of the fort^
One morning, shortly after this event, Djokdja
was thrown into an unusual state of excitement by
the report that a dog had been seen carrying a
human foot into the town. With the natives it
soon became current that one of their own race had
been foully murdered. On examination, however,
the foot was found to be that of a European a
fact which roused the suspicions of the European
community, who, from recent events, were easily
excited ; and supposing it to indicate the existence
of a deeper plot against them, they began to look to
tlieir own safety, and lost no time in making in-
quiries from house to house, to assure themselves
that none of the inmates were missing. Satisfac-
tory answers were, however, returned, which made
the case very mysterious. For several days it was
DISCOVERY OF A HUMAN FOOT. 149
the topic of conversation in the place, and for all
that we know, stran(^"e surmises woukl probably have
been made reiiardinfj the foot to this dav, had not
facts stronger than suppositions pushed themselves
under the noses of the learned doctors assembled
to discuss the subject. It seemed strange to them
that the heat of the climate, which decomposes
aniuial matter in less than forty-eight hours, had
not made the slightest impression on the foot ;
tliougli four days had now ela])sed since its disco-
very, it was still as fresh as on the first day. Some
wrig suggest(,'d that it might have been pickled or
saltt.'d ; and sure enough a lingual and nasal test
proved tliat such was the case. J>ut wh\' had this
been don(; ? The gra\'e conclave of doctors
asscndilcil f\crv day for a week, vainlv trying
to S(i]\c tlic in\sterv.
At last tiny wen; about to give Uj) the mat-
ter as inexplicable, when, to the sui'j)i'ise of all,
a doctor wlio had been \ erv silent durinir the
150 LIFE IN JAVA.
whole of that day's proceedings started up, and
exclaimed,
" Good Heavens ! can it be possible I have kept
you so long in suspense ? I do believe the foot is
that of a soldier I amputated some years ago, since
which time it was kept in the Museum of Anatomy;
but being anxious to clear the space it occupied
for more important subjects to lecture upon, I
ordered my servant, about four months ago, to
bury the bottle and its contents in some out-of-the-
way place. But we shall soon see I am deter-
mined to clear up this mysterious affair. Opus,"
cried he to one of the attendants, " go and order
my servant to come here immediately."
On the boy's appearance, the doctor said :
" Kasem, do you know that foot V
" No, Tuan, I do not."
" You saltan, don't you know the foot I told you
to bury with the bottle 1"
" Ya, Tuan, I do."
AMUSIXG DISCOVERY. 151
" Then how came It Into the dog's month f
" I don't know, sir I buried it deep."
" With or without the bottle '?"
The boy hesitated a moment to frame his excuse,
tlicn answered
" Without tlie bottle."
'' Whv did you do so ? How do you dare to
disobey my orders?"
'* Because," said the collected youth " because
we are not allowed by the Korahan to bury human
flesh in a box or bottle."
" Piiji fur Saitaii, you orang chilaca ! Go to
the devil, you rascal I" And the boy disappeared
amidst such a l)urst of laughter as was never heard
Ix'forc within the walls of the hospital.
This discovery was soon s])read through the
town, ti) the amusement and relief of all who
iieard it. Thus ended a scven-dnvs' wonder, caused
by the neghgence or covetousness of a tiavanese
youth, and the voracity of a dog w liicli, for the
152 LIFE IN JAVA.
time, kept tlie pulse of Djokdja at fever heat.
We were invited one evening to the house of
the Tumungong Mertonegoro (signifying "the good
of the hind"), in order to witness some dances which
had been got up for our entertainment. The resi-
dence of tliis prince is about two miles from the
town ; and we had a pleasant moonlight drive to it.
The Tumungong was ready to welcome us as we
alighted. He is a colonel in the Sultan's troops,
and brother to the prime-minister. He made him-
self very agreeable, and seemed remarkably desir-
ous for information, showing a great deal of curi-
osity on many subjects.
The ladies of his household, consisting of his
wife, daughters, nieces, &c., blazing Avitli jewels,
were seated in a semicircle round the upper part of
the Pringitan. The gentlemen were in the Pen-
dopo, which had many stands full of glittering
spears, and quite a museum of native arms.
To the riwht of the Prinoitan was tlie orchestra.
JAVANESE ORCHESTRA. 153
consisting of tjjirt}' men playing different instru-
ments, and composing what they call their full
Gamalan band. This was the first complete native
nuisical corps we. had yet seen, and some of the
instruments were quite new to us. One ponderous-
looking affair, like a rude violoncello, was about
four feet long, with an oval back the finger-
board, tail-]>iece, and pegs being of i^'ory. A very
diminutive piece of wood, placed close to the finger-
board, served as the bridge. Two wires composing
the strings, on being tightly drawn, produced soiuuls
far from pleasing. There was anothei" curiosity
in the sha])e of an enormous gong, so large that
anyone could have used it comfortably for a bath,
l^he (ianialan I have before described the (^dv
difference between those used liiTe and tlie ones we
hud ])re\ii)nsly seen being in their size. This in-
strnnieiit. when heard close at h;ind, is (h-afeninir
and noisy, tliougli never so unmusical as the
Chinese gong ; at a distance, it lias a sweet lulling
154 LIFE IN JAVA.
sound, " like water drops trained into melody."
As Javanese music is always extemporary, the
measure is almost invariably common time; though,
in some of the allegro and presto passages, the
beat is what musicians would term a two-four
time.
Before the dances commenced, six vocalists rose
up, conducted by one who appeared the leader, and
who sang from a manuscript which had been
written by the Prince at the express order of the
Sultan. The subject was a eulogium on the last
review of his Majesty's troops. The instrument
sometimes kept time with the song, but as the ac-
companiment was altogether improvised, they more
frequently appeared to forget the air which ought
to have been the foundation of their variations.
The first dance was performed by six young girls,
two of whom were the daughters of the Prince, and
the others their relatives. They came from the
house which was at the back, and walked with stately
DAXCE BY SIX GIRLS. 155
precision on to the Pringitan. They were very
gaily dressed. Their hahayas were of rich silk,
confined round the waist (in a manner I had never
before seen, as that article of attire in Java is
always left loose) by pindings sparkling with
jewels. Their gay saroiujs flowed below so long as
to form ([uite a train as they walked. Brilliant
looking coronets encircled their heads, and their
ears seemed f|uite heavy with the -weight of the jew-
els lianmno; from them.
Turning towards the ladles as they entered, they
seated themselves on the ground, and raised their
hands to salute the Raden Ayu, or wife of the
Prince. Tiien rising up simultaneously, they sepa-
rated into two j)arties, which, after crossing and
rccrossing eacii other si'veral times, suddenly stood
still in one attitude, as if tluy had been statues.
After coiitiimiug still for some moments, they began
to twist about and wave their bodies as onlv
supple-jointed >Vsiatics can do; and there was fre-
156 LIFE IN JAVA.
quently so much ease and gracefulness in their
movements, that they might have vied with those
of a London or Parisan corps de ballet. One of
their movements struck us as very extraordinary,
though scarcely characterized by the same chore-
graphic grace whicli we had observed in their other
movements. This was the curious manner in which
they sometimes protruded the inner joint of the
elbow, turning their hands backw^ards in a curve,
until the middle finger touched the wrist, a position
which had more the a})]iearance of a deformity
than of aught graceful or beautiful.
Four boys, dressed as Chinese mandarins, per-
formed the next dance, which had a warlike signi-
fication. Each was accompanied by an esquire,
carrying the weapons, &c., he was to use in the
sham fight in Avhich he was to engage during the
dance. A bamboo clarionet was the instrument
whose martial notes excited the mimic warriors,
who, under the weight of the padded clothing
PANTOMIMIC PERFORMANCE. 157
which they wore, soon became tired of their task,
and exhibited a very fagged appearance. Six
girls, who had ah'cady taken part in the first
dance, again appeared. A table covered with
wliite was placed in the centre of the Pringitan,
and a \ase of flowers was pnt on it by an old
duenna, who, every now and then, rearranged the
dress of the dancers, or smoothed out their tangled
hair. The variety of their movements showed that
this was a scenic performance.
In order that we might be able to understiuid
their pantdniimic gestures, I inquired what it was
they meant to re])rest,-nt ; and, in reply, was told the
following romantic story, the foundation of the
ballet:
In a<!:cs iioiw bv, there lived a kinii known as
Praboe >Sirid<ilo, ''{ Mcndaugkamolan, who, when
very vduug. di'tD'udncd to abandon the woi'ld.
For this purpose In- lived in a but, or cave, on the
top (jf a mountain, \vhcre Ik; was in the coiistant
158 LIFE IN JAVA.
habit of studying and meditating, keeping certain
days as tapa, or fasts. Like Faust, however, he
was frequently interrupted in the midst of his re-
flections by a Javanese Mephistopheles, who, that
he might wean the mind of the youth from the
perusal of the sacred books, artfully pictured to his
imagination the pleasures of this world. Inwardly
distrusting the strength of his own good resolutions,
Praboe sent for a larse bird, with whose lanfjuaire
he was conversant, and for four vestal virgins, to
exorcise the evil spirit which inspired him with
worldly and sensual thoughts.
Previous to their arrival he transformed himself
into a flower, in which form the young maidens
began dancing round him to drive away the evil
one. A princess, who happened to pass by, seeing
a vase of beautiful flowers, plucked one, and carried
it home. On placing it in water, her siu'prise
equalled her admiration when the flower suddenly
changed into a handsome young man, who, en-
ADJOURNMENT TO THE SUPrER-ROOM. 159
raptured with the charms of the pruicess, at once
made her an offer of his liand and heart, all love
for a hermit life and for tapa havinfi^ vanished
when the young girl plucked him from the vase.
The dance or ballet founded on this story,
called tlie Buksan, is a great favourite with every
native.
After one or two other representations of a
warlike nature, we all adjourned to the supper-room.
As this apartment was across the court-yard, tlio
Javanese gentlemen, following the example of the
Europeans, offered their arms to the ladies. The
innovation, however, did not seem to be generally
accejitable. As I was leading in a lady, I saw one
of the princesses without a ])artner, and, advancing
towards her. offered my other arm. She liesitated
at lii'st. but on seeing some of her friends and ri'-
latlons liandt'd in in the same maimer, she aj)peared
inclined to accept my polite offer. All at once,
however, as if overcome b\' iiKuiraise Iiontr. she
160 LIFE IN JAVA.
tlcclinecl my assistance, and walked in alone.
It was very amusing to see the Javanese princes
and gentlemen projecting their elbows as far as
they could in order to keep the ladies' crinolines
from touching their sarongs. A short European
lady who was present, remarked,
" I had literally to keep hold of my partner's
sleeve in order to keep pace with him."
The supper was prefaced with soup, and followed
by hot dishes, after the Dutch fashion in Djokdja.
At the conclusion of the repast, we re-entered the
Pendopo, and were shown over part of the dwelling-
house. Among other apartments we saw the
'' family bridal chamber," in which we noticed two
painted wooden figures one of a man and the
other of a woman, standing at the foot of the
" family nuptial couch." These figures, as we
were told, are calleil Lorobonyhoyo, or the youth
and maiden, and are placed there to cheat the
devil, who, according to their belief, during the
ROYAL ENTERTAINMENT, IGl
weddincr-niglit hovers round the bed, with the
view of carrying off one of the happy pair. These
figures, however, are their protection, for, deceived
by their resemblance, he carries them off instead
of the sleeping lovers.
In our round of native visits, a few days after
this, we were entertained by a branch of the; royal
house (the Susuhunan's), who borethetitles of Pakoe
Alam III. (or third nail of the earth), Pangeran
Addhipatti, Soeria Sasraningrat the latter sign if y-
infT " arm of the earth." On this occasion we saw
several war dances, in the execution of which the
men, naked to the waist, showed great dexterity
in handling both the sword and kriss. Tlkir
aj)[)('aranc(', the eyebrows being plastered over
with some lilack compositiun in the form of large
arches, and tlieir faces and bodies being i-oloured
briglit yellow, reminded me of some Xine\ite
figures.
After the dances, the I'riiiee -hevwd n> a lai'ge
VOL. II. Jl
162 LIFE IN JAVA.
book, about two feet long, and very thick, which
was brought in by two men, and pkiced with cere-
monious reverence on a table. This book con-
tained a genealogical table written by the Prince's
father, and several poems composed by his grand-
father, relatives, and friends, which he seemed very
proud of. The volume was bound in leather, and
inlaid with precious stones and gold, two small
yellow satin cushions being placed under the back
when opened, in order that it might not be strained.
Every page was illuminated with gold and colours,
in a manner far superior to anything I had ever
expected from the hands of the Javanese. The
book, which is seventy-five years old, is called Me-
nac.
We were introduced by the Prince to his mother,
a woman between sixty and seventy, which for a
native is considered very aged. She, however,
looked very hearty and strong, and possessed a
wonderfullv retentive memory. She remembered
ALBINO BABY. 163
the names of most of the officers and Residents
who resided at Djokdja during the Englisli rule.
This old lady presented my wife with a sarong, of
the esteemed prang rusa pattern, strongly scented
with a preparation called jabud, or ajubat, which
is much used by the wealthier natives, and is said
to be made from the fat of the moosang, or wild
cat.
The Prince next took us into an inner court of
the house, where he showed us an albino baby,
fair as a lily, whose parents and ancestors were all
pure Javanese. The native princes, whenever
they hear of the birth of any singular children,
immediately send for the ])arents, give them apart-
ments within the precincts of their palace or house,
and adopt tlieir offspring. The birth of an albino
is thus ()iisl(lercd to bring luck to a ])oor man.
The child itself, however, is generally weak and
sickly through life, and its eyes, which are pink, are
scarcely ever able to bear the light of day.
M 2
164 LIFE IN JAVA.
The climate of Djokdja Karta is very salubrious,
the temperature, except at mid-day, being cool and
pleasant. The sea-breezes and heavy dews, which
refresh the air at night, are often so chilly that one
requires a blanket in bed as a protection against
them ; and the absence of mosquitoes, which, in
most parts of Java, buzz their terrible nightly trum-
pet when they are about to levy sanguinary mail
upon your flesh, is a blessing the value of which all
travellers in the East can estimate.
This province produces excellent coffee. Wheat
and barley also grow in some of its hilly districts.
It is in fact considered very rich in agricultural
produce.
Twelve miles from Djokdja is Parangtritis, or
Paman-jingan a small village on the sea-board,
facing the Indian Ocean. The meaning of the
first name is "a stalactite rock;" from Parang "a
rock," and tritis " studded with stones." Stalac-
STALACTITE CAVES. 165
tites abound all along the coast in caves, caverns,
and hollows some of them so remarkable as to be
well worth seeing.
CHAPTER VI.
leave for moextillax temple of mandoot tradition of
i:ajah slamkk and his two wives simple bridge
wonderfl.'l property of stones found in snakes' heads
venom of a poisonous serpent sucked out by a galiga
ruins of bop.obodoo their singular construction
alto-relievos journey to tumungong cold recep-
TKjX RATHER SLOW SUBSTITUTE FOR HORSES LEGEND OF
Tin; BUFFALO WEARISOME JOURNEY ARRIVED AT LAST.
169
CHAPTER VI.
We parted from our hospitable friends with much
regret ; and, after a most agreeable sojourn under
their kind roof, left for Moentillan, where we passed
the night at the house of a friend of Mr. Z 's.
We started next morning to see the ruins of
Mandoet, or Mandoot, which consist of a large
square-built temple surrounded by a fosse, and
reached on one side by a small stone bridge. The
exterior walls are sculptured with numerous figures
of Durga, and other Javanese deities, much worn
hy time. Crossing the bridge, we mounted a few-
steps, and, traversing a short })assage, gained the
interior of the building. We ol)served on the
walls of the passage a lively grouj), representing,
as the guide told us, king (or deity) IJriot, his
170 LIFE IN JAVA.
wife, and cliildren, the latter no less than twenty-
five in number. Some of them are climbing trees,
others bathing and playing, the rest being taken
care of by some of their older brothers and sisters.
The height of the chamber we entered I should
imagine to be about twenty feet close to the walls,
and probably sixty or more in the centre, where the
ceiHng ended in a point similar to that of the fanes
at Brambanan. Facing the entrance, there is a
large altar, upon which stands a figure of enor-
mous proportions, hewn out of a solid block of
stone, of a dark colour, and grained something
like granite.
We were informed that this was the statue of
Kajah Slambey. The nose and mouth were better
chiselled than any we had yet seen. The head
was covered with frizzled-looking hair, cut in short
stiff curls like those of a negro, and the ears were
bored near the tips. We saw also two female
figures, nearly the same height as the Kajah, with
ALTAR FIGURES. 171
hair of the same description. They very much
resemble each other, and both wear crowns. We
also observed that the left arms were stretched out
very much in the same deformed manner as those
of the dancers at Djokdja. Their right hands are
held near the breast with two fingers raised, like
the figure of St. Peter at Home.
One of these figures is bound to the altar on
which it rests by a chain carved out of the stone ;
and the other is nailed throuo;h the thio-li. A
curious tradition is related of these three figures.
One of the IJuddhist deities, whom the natives now
call Ivajah liandong, is described as having paid
his court to the <roddess Durtja, and, on beinix rc-
jected by lier, marched with a large force to
compel her to submit to his wislies. Durga, fearing
tliat her army miglit be defeated by so powerful
an adversaiy, ap[)hc'([ to Slambey for his assistance
in tiiL' struggle. This deity, glad of an opportunity
to serve the fair goddess, lost no time in suuunon-
172 LIFE IN JAVA.
ing his men, in order to lead them to her aid.
But just as he was prepared to start, he was sur-
prised to see his two wives ready to follow him,
under the fear that the martial volunteer him-
self might yield to the charms of the beautiful
divinity. Enraged at being thus suspected. Slam-
bey ordered the women immediately to return home;
and, on their refusal, commanded the one to be
chained, and the other nailed to two stone altars,
after which he transformed them into stone for
their disobedience. Sallying forth, he then de-
feated the Kajah of Bandong, and freed Durga
from his distasteful wooing. On returning to his
home, he built the temple of Mandoot, in which he
placed the two figures of his refractory wives, as a
warning to other jealous women. The exterior walls
are decorated with figures of Durga, and sculp-
tures representing her exploits.
When the temple was finished, and he began to
feel the want of something to employ his mind, the
SLAMBEY AND HIS WIVES. 173
memory of his two faithful wives returned to him,
and he regretted the hasty part he had acted
towards them. He happened one day to be rumi-
nating befoi'e the altar, and regarding from time to
time the cold faces of his wives on each side, when
the defeated Rajah Bandong entered, and disco-
vered his vanquisher.
'"So, sol"' cried he, in a voice of thunder, '^ 1
have caught you at last, have I ? What is your
power to mine, now you have notDurga near you?
Be thou, cruel man, for ever seated on that spot,
and become like those two poor victims of thy
tyranny!''
So saying, he left the spot, and Slambey was at
once metamorphosed into a cold stone figure.
AI)oiit a iiiilc fj'oiu Manduot, wc sto])pe(l at a
Httlc village calK'd liotchong, situated at tlie sum-
mit of a liill^ below which ih)\vs the river Progo.
Alighting, and walking down to the water, wliicii
wc wished to cross, we had to wait until the
174 LIFE IN JAVA.
bamboo rafts, to serve us for a bridge, were tied
together.
Whilst we are waiting, I will take the oppor-
tunity of relating a few incidents which were told
me previous to leaving Djokdja. I am sensible
that such digressions are not always liked, though,
to my fancy, in a light work of this description,
they sometimes serve as the oar to paddle the
canoe when the lively breeze of interest has for a
moment subsided into a calm.
Many of my readers have doubtless heard of the
stones found occasionally in the heads of serpents,
fish, and other animals, which are said to possess
the property of curing different diseases, allaying
the pain of stings, &c. A relative of Mr. Z
showed me a dark green one, which had been
brilliantly polished, and resembled a malachite. It
Avas found, she told me, in the head of a serpent,
and had already been the means of effecting many
cures. On one occasion a native of the town, whilst
WONDERFUL STONES. 175
workin fT in the country, having been bitten on the
foot by a venomous]snake, was taken to the hospital,
Avhere he suffered agonies for two or three days,
at the expiration of wliich time his foot was swollen
to an enormous size, every effort of the medical
men in attendance having proved ineffectual to
allay the inflammation. The poor man, in great
torment, at last bethought himself of the stone in
Mrs. V "s ]>ossession, the fame of which had
spread through Djokdja, and earnestly implored
that they would try this remedy. The doctors
smiled incredulously, but readily assented to gratify
the man's whim, as they called it, and despatched
a messenger witli a polite re(iuest for the loan of
the stone, which was at once granted. On appli-
cation to the wound, and before many seconds had
elapsed, it adhered so tightly to the flesh, that it
was found impossible tf) remo\e it ; and not until
the swelling had com])letely abated, and the foot
had resumed its natural size, did tlu' wondi'rful
176 LIFE IN JAVA.
stone detach itself and fall, leaving the patient free
from pain. >
This stone, being porous, possessed the property
of absorbing diseased or venomous matter. When
it was placed in a basin of water the liquid soon
became quite discoloured, and it was not till fresh
water had been put into the vessel several times
that the stone became perfectly cleansed from
the bad matter it had absorbed fi'om the wound.
A stone I saw, on a different occasion, whicli
was found in a cocoa-nut, was marked with the same
lines as those on the exterior of the shell. This
was set in a ring, and was said to possess the pro-
perty of curing weak e^^es.
As our ponies are now on the o})posite bank,
we step into the llees-Wagen, and are conveyed
across the swift broad current. As soon as we
landed in safety on the other side, the carriage was
pulled up by coolies to the top of the hill.
Not far from this river is a buildini: which the
BOROBODOO. 177
natives call the dapor, or kitchen. It is built of
that dark grey stone known as trachyte, a species
of volcanic rock. The interior walls being much
blackened by smoke, probably accounts for the
Javanese name.
A mile farther on, over a rugged road, we came
in sight of the ruins of Borobodoo, situated on the
summit of a green hill, which, though much dila})i-
dated, were yet sufficiently perfect to look very
imposing from a distance.
Borobodoo is built in terraces, ten in ninnbcr, the
four topmost being circular, and the lower ones,
wliich are built on the side of the hill, ([uad-
raugular. The wulls of these terraces are sur-
mounted l)y arches, luidi'rnrath whicli have been
figures; some still remaining, whik' others have
been iviikimmI, or have fallen down fi'oiii their
ele\ated j)()siti(jns. On tlie sunnnit of the temj)le
stands a circular erection, jkjw partly in ruins, like
a large broke)! funnel, with a kind of temporary
VOL. 11. N
178 LIFE IN JAVA.
roof for the accommodation of visitors. It is built
quite al fresco, its passages and the main portions
of the building being entirely exposed to all the
changes of the weather.
There are four entrances to this singular ruin,
but as the one now in use is on the opposite side,
we had to walk round to the western gate. Mount-
ing a flight of steps, we reached the first terrace,
which we found to be about twenty feet broad, and
from four hundred and twenty-six to thirty feet
square. We could now examine the figures
under the arches more closely, and if as an
author who had many opportunities of forming a
correct judgment of pagan deities observes
" Buddha is invariably represented with curled
negro hair and long cars," there need be no doubt
as to whether Jainists, Brahmins, or Buddhists
bviilt this temple; for, with a head perfectly answer-
in (t to this description, the deity sits on every wall,
and in almost every niche. The date of erection
TERRACES. 179
of this temple is supposed to be about the year
1344 A.D.
The terraces on our side are mucli encumbered
with ashes and debris, ejected from the volcanic
mountain Marapi. A great quantity of this, how-
ever, has already been removed, as it was found
that the weight partially sunk the building.
Tile walls on each side of every terrace are
elaborately sculptured with alto-relievos. Those
on the inner wall of the first represent tlie
histoiy of Rama. The second terrace, with those
rising above it to the circular tower, is reached bv
four flights of steps, corresponding with the foiu'
cardinal jjoints of the compass. It is probablv
about two liundi'ed fei't less than the first, and
only six feet in width. All the terraces thus
gradually decrease until you ai'rive near the
sunniiit. The tableaux rejiresenting the legend of
Ivama are contimiecl as we ascend, and are so
numerous that it is imjiossible for anv (.)ne to ex-
N 2
180 LIFE IN JAVA.
amine minutely the subject of each, unless, in-
deed, the traveller could repeat his visit several
times. One represents two athletic figures strug-
gling together for a box, while a man and woman
from an adjacent house look upon the scene with
great consternation and alarm. Next to this is
seen a gigantic figure in a sitting posture, with one
knee raised and tied to a tree. Two men, who
look like attendants, are on the left, and on the
right an altar with the flame rising in a pyramidal
form. Bevond the altar is a figure leanino; against
a kind of pillar, holding in his left hand a lotus
flower. This last alto-relievo Is supposed to repre-
sent a giant overpowered, and about to be made
an auto da fe of, a scene to which the procession
represented above may probably be a prelude, as
the giant is seated on an elephant, with an air of
apparent resignation to his fate, amidst a crowd of
people assembled to witness the triumph of their
deity over mundane strength. Rama precedes the
SCULPTURES ON THE WALLS. 181
captive giant, in a carriage drawn by a pair of
fiery horses, which the bujangs running by their
side are vigorously hishing.
This tableau is followed by one of a ship, which
the sculptor has evidently intended to represent in
a storm, Ijut he has not been very successful in
picturing the surging sea and lowering clouds. On
tiie shore are several men, apparently begging
mercy of a woman who is walking on the surface
of the turbulent waters.
Further on Kama, or Logowo, as some natives
call him, is seen displaying diiferent feats of
strength and agility before the I'rincess Cinto, the
dauglitcr of Muntilirigo, whose heart he is desirous
of gaining. In one scene he is represented in the
act of drawing his bow, tlie arrow being directed
towai'ds seven tall trees standing in a line, which
he is to fell l)y a singh' shot, a feat which he is
said to have accomplisherl, obtaining thereby the
hand of the pi'incess, and the title of liama, or, as he
182 LIFE IN JAVA.
is often called by Hindus, Eama Goinda Samy.
Three other groups, on a line with this, represent
Rama carried in triumph, in a kind of chair on
the shoulders of some men ; then the marriage,
and the grand procession after the nuptials.
A company of musicians playing before the
Princess and her court is sculptured on the same
terrace. Amongst the instruments I recognised
the Gamalan, the only difference being that the
metal gongs had not the knob in the centre like
those now in use.
Archers, or bowmen, are displaying their skill
before Rama and his wife, who appear seated in
pomp on a raised platform or dais. The right leg
of the deity is placed crosswise, the other doubled
before him. As the men near him are in a similar
attitude, this singular posture may have been regard-
ed as regal and courtlike ; and as if such were the
case, it would have to be kept up during the time an
audience lasted, they contrived the simple but inge-
SCENES REPRESENTED. 183
nious plan of tying the leg and thigh together, in
order to enable the courtiers of that age to sit for
hours thus crouched upAvithout much inconvenience.
In many of the alto-relievos they are represented
tied, so that we can scarcely avoid supposing that
such was the purpose of so strange a posture.
Others represent the life of King Kadjuno, a
celebrated " pandawalima," or warrior, who, after
fighting many battles, and gaining endless victories,
retired from the world to a mountain, to do
" wardinisy," as the guide termed it, or penance.
Here he is disturbed in his devotions by Morodo,
a priest, and his attendant Dawa, who flagellate the
devout anchorite, l)ut without being able to ruffle
his temper. Seeing that he bears all with the
patience of a martyr, they seek the assistance of
W'odosarie, who despatches her Amazons to their
help. In turning liadjuno from his tajia, these
women slK)ot at him from a jirojecting wall, with-
out injuring him, however, f(jr the pointed barbs
184 LIFE IN JAVA.
turn into lotus flowers as they approach their in-
tended victim.
The next four terraces are narrower than the
two first, with relievos only on one side of the wall.
The niches also are fewer and farther between.
The last four, as I have before observed, are cir-
cular, and very broad ; each having three rows of
bell-shaped cages, hewn out of trachyte, in which
is a figure of Buddha, in the same sitting posture
as on the walls. These cages are from four
to five feet in diameter at the base, and stand about
three feet apart.
On ascending the last flight of steps w^e walked
to the tower, and after gaining the summit, had an
extensive and beautiful view of the surrounding
country. A more lovely panorama of mountains,
valleys, streams, and tropical verdure, is not to be
found in any other part of Java. The tower can
be entered by a door at the foot of the steps, where,
half buried bv an accumulation of sand and clay,
RUINS OF BRAMBAXAN. 185
a stone figure lies, much broken and disfigured.
From an opening above, the ashes of the dead were
thrown down after the bodies had been burnt ;
incineration being a jn'cvalent practice among the
ancient possessors of Java.
Apparently ^erv little cement has been used in
building this temple, the stones of which have been
])laced together with great discernment, patience,
and skill, more particularly at the corners and pro-
jecticms, wliere they are wedged together, or dove-
tailed, to insure the strength of the edifice.
The ruins of Brambanan are generally con-
sidered to be half a century more ancient than
those of Ijorolxxloo.
On dcsccnchng the hill, avc ])assed luider a long
aveiTvU; of trcn-s to the AN'odono's house, who in-
f()ni)('(l us that the Dapor, or kitchen, the n;ime
a]])!ie(l to the jilaee we hail ]);issed on our way to
I>or<)I)iiiloo, was a misnomer, the; right name being
Chundi I'awon Chundi signifying, in Javanese,
186 LIFE IN JAVA.
a temple. At no great distance lies the village of
Brodjonolo, the gate, standing upon what seems to
have been the site of a former entrance to the
grounds of the temple.
After partaking of some refreshments, we started
on our way back, recrossed the Progo, and then
proceeded to Magellan, which is a nice clean-look-
ing town. A splendid view of the twin volcanoes
Marapi and Murababoo, may be obtained from it
The road running through it is a very fine one
and a large Kraton, belonging to the Regent
stands on the left side. Here we changed horses,
and continued our route to a place called Tumun-
gong, where we arrived in the afternoon.
Being provided with a letter to a native chief,
from a friend of his, we ordered the carriage to be
driven up to the house, where an incident oc-
curred which is worthy of notice, so far as it shows
the difference of the native character when acting
under restraint and when guided by natural impulse.
PRESENTATIOX OF A LETTER. 187
As we approaclied, I perceived a Javanese, whom
I rightly imagined to be the chief himself, talking
to a European gentleman. I alighted when the
caiTiage stopped, and, advancing towards him, pre-
sented my letter. To my surprise, however,
though the envelope was addressed to himself, he
handed it over to the gentleman beside him. The
European coolly opened it, as if such a proceed-
ing were a matter of course, and, after glancing at
the writinn; not one word of which, I verilv be-
lieve. he understood, as it was all in Javanese
returned it to the rightfvd owner, who, having read
the whole, said, with singular coldness, more
freezing, coming, as it did, from a native from
whom we iiad hitherto met with so much warmth
of heart and kindness
"There is a biijeineiit in the town Tvian can go
tliere ; I have tlie liesident and Contruleur staying
with nie now."
" Is there ( I was n<jt aware of it," answered I;
188 LIFE IN JAVA.
and, adding a tynmacasi, or " thank you," I left this
inhospitable chief, and drove off in search of the
logement.
To many it may seem curious, nay, even pre-
sumptuous, for a traveller, though furnished with
an introductory letter from a friend, to drive
straight up to a stranger's house, and expect him
to find lodging for him ; but in Java it is the
custom to give accommodation for days together,
especially where there are no public resorts of any
kind for the traveller to rest in.
On arriving at the logement, I perceived it was
quite a new building, which accounted for the
friend who gave me the letter not knowing of
its existence. AVe were glad to get under the
verandah, to be sheltered from the ruin, which now
began to fall fast, accompanied by vivid flashes of
lightnino;.
Here we were pretty comfortable, the fai'e,
though simple, being good ; and in the anticipa-
YOUNG JAVANESE CHIEF. 189
tlon of to-morrow's journey, we soon forgot the
disagreeables of tlie past day.
Before we retired, a handsome young Javanese
cahed and asked to see me, announcing himself as
the son of the chief we had that afternoon seen.
lie was accompanied hy a small suite of attend-
ants, all wearing krisses, who sat cross-legged on
the floor, and, whenever their youthful master
accosted one of them, saluted him in the prayer-
like manner already described.
He was a very pleasant gentleman, and showed
a great /'enr/icotf for Bi'itisii sovereigns, about
twenty of which lie wore as jacket buttons. As 1
was ratlu-r at a loss to understand the purport of
his visit, J bowed to him, begged him to take a
scat, ami waited for him to begin the conversation,
wliicli be did by making apologies for bis father's
coldness, who, tliat dav, be said, was rather /diia-
noiKj (meaning out of bumour, or in a (biemma),
in conse(|uence of having been awakened from bis
190 LIFE IN JAVA.
noonday siesta by the unexpected aiTival of the
Resident and the Controleur. His own house,
he added, was at our service as long as we liked
to stay in Tuniungong.
I thanked the young chief for his kind invitation,
but as we Intended leaving for Wonosobo early
next morning, we were obliged to decline it.
Having been informed by the landlord that I
should find a difHculty in procuring horses for the
journey, 1 asked our visitor how we could obtain
them, thinkino; he mio'ht be able to order them
for me. To my surprise, spite of the landlord's
surmise to the same eifect, I was told that two
Government officials had already monopolised every
])o.st-horse in the town, a right which, as experience
liad on one or two occasions before taught me, they
frequently exercise to the great annoyance of
travellers.
Whenever these Government Amtanars contem-
plate a tour of pleasure or duty, all consideration
ARBITRARY POSTING ARRANGEMENT. 191
for travellers appears to be set aside, or made sub-
servient only to their will and convenience. You
may happen to arrive in a town a full week before
these functionaries, but if previous notice has been
given by them to the equerry of the posts, bidding
him keep horses in readiness for their appearance,
woe to the unfortunate individual who, having
enabled you to continue your journey, is unable to
satisfy their demands. The traveller must patiently
remain in the town till they return from their in-
spectio]!, unless he can manage to procure coolies, oj*
buffaloes, to continue his journey. This arrange-
ment is undoubtedly very conducive to the travel-
ling comfort of Goverimient servants ; but it is
rather arbitrary, and exceedingly disagreeable to
travellers.
As horses were procurable neither for love nor
money, we arranged for relays of coolies to j)ull
our carriage to W'onosobo, its next destination,
which was more than eiirhteen miles off. This
192 LIFE IN JAVA.
idea was a novel one, and far from pleasing to
us. Loyalty will sometimes lead subjects to yoke
themselves to the carriages of monarchs, but I am
sure even the greatest enthusiasm would require
horse flesh to aid human power, if eighteen miles
of hilly road were to be traversed with a heavy car-
riage, rightly termed a Wagen.
Next morning by half -past six, twenty-five coolies,
headed by a mandoer, lashed themselves with ropes,
made from the plantain tree and rattan, to the car-
riage, and with loud shouts of ayu ! ayu ! set off
with a run, which, before long, degenerated into a
quick march, and gradually dwindled down to a
walk, the poor men all the time good-humouredly
talking, laughing, and singing snatches of native
melodies.
About half a mile from Tumungong, we passed
the gates of the town limits, surmounted with battle-
axes, which are the arms of the place. Beyond
these, we had on all sides extensive fields undergo-
BUFFALOES. 193
ing the operations of ploufifhing and irrirration. As
in the time of the Buddhists, the only animals em-
ployed for this heavy, muddy work are buffaloes ;
and lazv though the animal seems, it is astonishino-
what an amount of work lie goes through, patiently
toiling on, though in many instances subjected to
great hardships and cruelties. When one native
quarrels with another, and desires to inform him
that he will not stand any ill treatment, he uses
this quiet beast as a metaphor. " Don't take me
for a b'uffalo," he says ; " 1 am not to be led by the
nose." In some of their legendary tales, this modi'
of leading the lazy-paced animal, is said to have
been adopted in consequence of his having refused
to (juit the world with Gragasi, a giant, and Singa,
a word which in Sanscrit means lion. These two,
determining to leave a ])lace where they were in
daTiger of being one day made to serve mankind,
endeavoured to persuade some other animals to
follow their example, and such as refused were
VOL. 11.
194 LIFE IN JAVA.
condemned to some degradation. Thus the horse
was fated to be henceforth ridden or driven, the
buffalo to be led by the nose, and the ass to be for
ever despised and tormented.
Added to his docility and gentleness, the buffalo
is an inexpensive animal for a peasant to keep, the
food he consumes being chiefly grass, with an oc-
casional mash of boiled rice. At night he sleeps
under a rough attap shed, but his favourite spot,
when he is fortunate enough to have a master who
cares for his comfort, is near a burning pile of
leaves and rubbish, which, when set fire to, smoul-
ders away for some time, keeping the tiresome
mosquitoes off. When the poor animal is no longer
of any use, he is sold to a butcher, who retails the
flesh in small cpantities, impaled on short sticks
like hahauhs.
Six miles from Tumungong we stopped at the
small village of Kinang Kudoe, where our men re-
freshed themselves with rice and other condiments,
THE PONIES OF MURGOWATTI. 195
served in a plantain leaf. After this simple repast,
they uttered their usual shout of cuju ! ayu ! and
we were again on the move.
A short distance beyond this village the mandoer
pointed to two hillocks in an open country to our
left, known as the hills of Murgowatti, and famous
for the ponies bred there ; which, he added, owe
their strengtii, agility, and swiftness to drinking
from a certain running spring on the slope of one
of the hills, said to have been the fre([uent resort
of Simbrani's horses, '' the bucket used Iiy them,
now become hard as stone, being still to be seen."
Our roud, after leavin< these famed hills be-
hind, began to be very stec]), and l.>v the time we
reached J*aponan, a small village on the top of a
hill, we were two hundred and iifty feet above the
town of Tumungong. IK'i'e, as from an eagle's
eyrie, we had a wide bird's-eye view of the sur-
rounding country. Our coolies, relieved by others,
here also received their money, and ran down tlu'
2
196 LIFE IX JAVA.
hill, slioutinrr like boys released from school.
We came next to the little hamlet of Gamoe,
about two miles and a half from Paponan. Here
we were shewn two spots, to both of which a tradi-
tion is attached. The first was the cave of Gun-
dohl, on the opposite side of the river Gundohl,
and the other the mound of Sukorini, covered with
wild-looking trees and shrubs.
According to tradition, the king of some part of
Java being dangerously ill with a tumour, which
baffled the skill of all the court physicians ta cure,
some learned men who were near at hand Avere
consulted, and they advised that his majesty's two
sons, Gundohl and Sukorini, should set out in
search of some healing salve. Nothing loth, the
brothers sallied forth, one taking a northern, and
the other a southern direction, Gundohl diligently
traversed various countries, losing not a single
moment of his waking hours, and inquiring of
every one he met for this wonderful specific ;
JAVANESE TRADITIOX. 197
while his brotlier, on the contrary, soon grow weary
of a journey wliich, as he thought, would prove in-
terminable, and began to amuse himself on the
way, squandering his money in extravagance and
dissipation ; till, at last, afraid to return home, he
bethought himself of turning his steps northward
in search of his brother.
Gundohl, in the meantime, had been unremit-
ting ill his inquiries and search for the medicine,
which hitherto, however, had proved quite fruitless.
Arriving one day at a river which now bears his
name he laid himself down on the bank, and was
just falling asleej), when a fear of alligators cross-
ing his mind, he ])r()ceeded farther up the stream,
till lie perceived a cave, wliich he was just on the
j)oint of entering, when an old woman suddenlv
a])pcared, saying it was forbidden ground, being
the dwelling of a Tiiaii Patrie, or virgin angel. On
hearing the words of the old woman, ( lundolil
told her he would not attempt to intrude on the
198 LIFE IN JAVA
Tuan Patrie's privacy, but begged for a handful
of rice, -whicli she readily gave him. Having
eaten it, lie fell fast asleep.
The duenna, returning to the cave, found the
virgin in a sound slumber, which continued for
so many hours, that her old protector began to feel
quite alarmed ; but at last, after an unusually long
sleep, the fair damsel started up, opened her eyes,
and said
" Haste, Minda, call the youth in to whom you
gave the rice some time ago ; I saw you in my
dream, and I am told that this young man is sent
hither for the medicine which my father left in our
charge."
The obedient old body immediately went out,
and finding Gundohl, broui2;ht him to the Tuan
Patrie, Avho, after a few questions, delivered the
medicine to him. Instead of setting off at once
with the remedy, the young man delayed from day
to day, till he and the virgin angel were desperately
JAVANESE TRADITION. 199
in love with eacli otlier, and a day was fixed for
their "vvedclino;. Just at this crisis Sukorini, who
had for some time been in search of Gundold,
made liis appearance, and was informed by his
elder brother of his success in the discovery of the
precious medicine, with which he intended to return
soon after his n^iarriafi^e. Sukorini, who was full
of deceit and cunning, feigned great joy at the
success of his brother, Avho vmsuspiciously took
him to the spot where the ])alni was concealed,
and showed it to him.
That night, when the inmates of the cave were
wrapt in sleep, Sukorini crept noiselessly in, and
taking the medicine from its hlding-])lace, secured
it about his person, and fled from the spot, resting
neither night nor day till he reached the palace of
tlu' king, his father.
(Jundohl was very nuich ainioyed when he dis-
covere(l the deceit which his l)i'other had ])ractised
up(jn him, and repairing instantlv to his betrothed,
200 LIFE IN JAVA.
he acquainted lier with his loss, and intreated her
to consent to an immediate marriage, in order that
she might accompany him to his father's court, to
frustrate the wicked designs of Sukorini, who
doubtless hoped to supplant him in his father's
affection.
Tuan Patrie did not hesitate a moment in con-
senting both to marry him and to accompany him
to the king, thinking that probably her voice might
be needed to confirm Gundohl's statement.
In the meantime, Sukorini's arrival had been
hailed with great joy, and a day was appointed on
which a large number of courtiers and subjects
were to assemble, to see the medicine applied, and
the king's health restored. But great w^as the dis-
* appointment of all present when, on its application
at the appointed time, the remedy was found in-
effectual.
The king, still suffering from his malady, grew
sad, having now lost all hope of ever being cured.
JAVANESE TKADITION. 201
Sukorini betrayed ^'eat astonishment and vexation,
as each trial was followed by the same ill-success ;
and the courtiers, doctors, and people whispered
together, or exchanged glances Avhich seemed to
say, " I am not surprised ; I never l)elieved in this
tale al)0ut the medicine, it was only told to divert
the mind of the poor king."
At this moment a messenger came to the foot of
the throne, and after making a profound obeisance,
said there was an old blind man at the palace gate
who craved leave to speak a few words to his
majesty.
" Let him be admitted," said the king, for the
old man was a well-known seer, and much resjn'cted
by all the coui't. On being led up to the king, he
was told to spt'ak, and stretching out his wrinkled
hand, he said, in a tremulous voice
"I'liou, () king, wilt still live the cm'e is indeed
here, but it has been served with foul hands!"
When he ceased speaking, as though to gain
202 LIFE IN JAVA.
time for breath, a murmur of displeasure ran
through tlie assembly, and man}!- partisans of the
young prince, avIio were anxious that he should
disinherit the rightful heir, advanced to check the
old man ; but a stern glance from their sovereign,
who took upon himself to answer the speech of the
seer, obliged them to retire.
" Perhaps, old man," said the monarch, mildly,
"you are not aware that the young prince Sukorini
was the bearer of the medicine ; you dare not
impute a thought of dishonour to him?"
" I was perfectly aware, O king, of this ; and if
I may be so bold as to ask a few minutes' con-
versation with him, I may be able to convince
you of the truth of my statement," replied the old
man.
On being told tliat Sukorini stood near him, he
asked him if he had seen his brother since he left
the court ; and, upon the prince answering in the
negative, said :
JAVANESE TRADITION. 203
''As Allah lives, I have ; this day a younf^ man
led me here the only one who -svoiild lend me any
assistance, whilst evoiyone else I asked was linrry-
iiif^ to the palace, and would not stop for me that
young man is thy brother."
Everyone ])resent began to think the old man
was mad, and Sukorini loudly protested against
the manner in which he had been spoken of, and
entreated his father to have the seer sent away
fi-om the palace. But the king, Avhosc heart
yearned for the presence of his good and favourite
child, paying no heed to these outlnirsts, com-
manded that the young man who had accompanied
the venerabk' seer sliould be brought before him.
ANlien (iiuiddhl entered, he was so disguised
that even his own father did not recognise him ;
and h'' ajiproaclicd the throne amid the lialf-suj)-
pre.ssed jcrrs of the asscinbU'd nnikitudc Per-
ceiving at a glance how mattrrs stood, he fi'h that
tiie moment was a critical one for him. Advanc-
204 LIFE IN JAVA.
ing boldly, however, lie took the box of medicine,
which stood on a table close by, and applying some
to the wound, in less than a minute the king stood
up, crying out, in a voice of great joy, that he was
cured, and felt perfectly well. Gundohl then
threw off his disguise, embraced his father, and,
turning to the people, was as loudly cheered and
welcomed as he had before been jeered at and
hooted. Sukorini was banished from the court ;
and, dying in poverty, was buried under the mound
which now bears his name. Gundohl and his wife
lived long and happily, the former succeeding to
the throne on the demise of his father.
By three o'clock, the weatliei*, which had been
fine all day, began to change wind and rain
making the air damp and cold, and the country
cheerless and uninviting.
We arrived at the village of Rotjo, about six
miles farther on, soon after the rain set in, and
here had to wait a full hour for coolies, who, either
TEDIOUS JOURNEY. 205
from negligence on the part of the avant courrier,
who was sent on horseback to collect them, or from
their own dilatory disposition in getting ready,
did not seem in the least prepared for the journey.
We were told Ave had yet six miles to go, and as
the road was a steep ascent, and veiy rough, there
was every chance of our being a long time on it.
As night came on, we began to think of the
IJuddhist saying, " that when it grows dark, people
think of housing themselves." But we had little
hope, for several hours yet, of finding any shelter
except what the carriage afforded, and therefore
resigned ourselves to our lot.
Again ami again Drahman and I jum])ed down
ti) Hghten the weight and lend a lielj)ing hand; but
the niglit being dark and gloomy, the route seemed
interminable. The torches which some of the men
held were cf)nst:nitly extinguished by the rain all
I if them ijee()niin!j; at last so thoroughly wet that
not one would !)urn.
206 LIFE IN JAVA.
About midnight, we heard the joyful sounds
which intimated that we were in the town of
Wonosobo. We drove up to the house of the
Assistant-llesident, where the comfort we met with
made us forget in part the tediousness of that day's
journey.
CHAPTER Vll.
TOWN OF WOXOSOBO EXCruSION TO TIIK DIKNMf LAKE MEXD-
JEIi IIEAVV RAIN SHELTEIl riilMITIVE FIRE VALLEY OF
THE IJIEN'G RUIN'S OF TEMl'LES^DAXGEliOUS RESORT FOR A
NIOHT'S rest HOT Sl'IUXGS LIKE FOrXTAIN'S P.ATOOIi,
COLDNESS OF ITS CLIMATE AXCIEXT ROAD OR COXDUIT
LAKE OF MANY COLOCIIS ^MELAXCHOl.V DEATH OF A COX-
TROLEL'i: XEW TSE FOR A llLAXKEl' TIIUXDEIi-STOIi.M
JAVAXESi: IDEA OF IIIE LAST DAY RULE OF THE DCICIl
FORETOLD TEA GOD<nVXS.
209
CHAPTER VII.
WoNOSOBO is ;i small town, with several very
pretty European houses, and an extensive tea
godown. It is situated on lii<^h ground, on the
sloj:)CS of which are rice fields, and occasional plan-
tations of trees. Mountains and hills are seen in
all directions, the former particularly beautiful.
The view, as seen from the house we were stay-
ing at, was very lovely, reminding one more of a
scene in Switzerhmd, or the Tyrol, than the
trojiics. T'niikc the towns and villages in the low
hind, Eiu'opeans walk about iluring tlie day with-
(jut any solo-tojjcc, or umljrcjlla, the climate being
cool and agreeabh'.
Our reason for visiting Wonosobo was to make
it the. startiug-])oint for the Dieng, which, besides
VOL. II. P
210 LIFE IN JAVA.
being one of the most elevated situations in Java
where Buddhist ruins are still to he found, is a
locality teeming with a greater number of volcanic
lakes and hot springs, within a limited space, than
any other in the island.
We left Wonosobo early in the morning to make
our excursion, and had proceeded about two or
three miles in the carriage, when we came to a
stop on account of a broken bridge. Here horses
and coolies were in readiness to take us on, and
mounting the former, we galloped onwards to the
lake of Mendjer. The tortuous river Srayu,
rushing several feet below us, enlivened the scene
by the noise it made in dashing against the dark
brown rocks and broken spars w^edged in between
the stones. In some deeper parts it flowed on in a
gentle lull, bending in its course the grass and
leaves which, growing Ijy its sides, waved gently
under the influence of the soft breeze.
Lake Mendjer, a small sheet of water, is situated
LAKE MEXDJER. 211
immediately at the foot of the Gunong Sorodjo,
which rises three hundred feet above it. The
sides of this mountain abound in caves both large
and small, looking dark and gloomy in the dis-
tance.
The aspect of the lake, which is nearly two
miles in circumference, is sombre and dreary. Its
depth, we were told, is unfathomable. To the left
of the lake is seen, at the foot of a chalky escarp-
ment, a large, deep hole, serving as an outlet to the
water, mIucIi ^^ould otherwise overflow during the
rainy season.
'' Xo (jiie," said the Mandoer, who had accom-
panied us as guide, in a low, mysterious tone, "but
Tuan Allah can tell where the water <2;oes to from
CD
tliis hole."
Tliis lake, in all probabilitv, has at one time
been an active volcano, which, when the fire was
extinct, becanu' gradually filleil with water.
About two thousand feet aliove the Mendjer
r 2
212 LIFE IN JAVA.
but completely hidden from view until you are
close upon it, is the Tologo Cliabong, the lake of
Tadpoles, situated somewhat similarly to the one
we had last seen, the Gunong Pkaoewodjo in this
instance being the name of the hill which towers
above it.
Sulphur, from this hill and the Mendjer, oc-
casionally impregnates the water, its inliuence
lasting sometimes more than a week, during which
time abundance of fish, called palong, float in a
lifeless state on the surface, affording both amuse-
ment and profit to the natives of the surrounding
districts in collecting them.
Quitting this curious spot, we rode on for some
miles, through extensive tea plantations and wind-
ing mountain passes ; the rain, which began to
fall soon after we left the lake, descending in tor-
rents on our unprotected heads. After a long ride
we arrived at a little hamlet, and took shelter in
the liouse of the Pakal Desar (the head of the fields).
A STEEP AND SLIPPERY ROAD. 213
who immediately lit some fagots, and made the
best fire he could to warm and chy us. As the fire
was on the ground in the middle of the floor, we
seated ourselves close to it. The poor natives also
crouching near it for warmth, we looked like a
group of Maories holding a council of war.
When the rain began to clear off a little, we
started again. The road now being very steep and
slij)pery, we could not proceed quite so rapidly as
before, but we urged our horses forward, determin-
ing not to lose more time en route than we could
help ; for we felt thoroughly chilled by the cold,
which, in conse(pience of the rain, and our being
tlicn about eight thousand feet above the level of
the sea, was veiy severe.
As we ap])roachcd the Dieng we could see, on
the level ytlain below, Wonosobo, and the district
of Bagelang. As the lofty chain of Brambanan,
with their summits undistinguishable amid the
(t](>uds, rose Ijcfore us, the mountain peaks hid
214 LIFE IN JAVA.
the view from our sight. The mountain we were
on was called the Prau, behind which were various
mountains known as Talerep, Sumbing, and Sin-
doro, &c., rising to different heights.
Our route was a very wild and desolate one, the
rough path sometimes winding immediately above
a steep precipice, at others between rocks and
mountains, the bases of which were encrusted with
sulphur, and full of holes and crevices, from many
of which, as from the vent of a boiler, smoke or
steam was puffing out, filling the air with strong
sulphuric smells ; while, in accordance with the
character of the place, a kind of distant rumbling
noise was constantly heard, sometimes increasing
and sometimes decreasing, but never subsiding
until we had nearly reached our journey's end.
When w^e were at the summit of the Prau
mountain, the guide directed our attention to an
opening, whether natural or artificial I cannot say,
in the shoulder of the mountain, from which we
VALLEY OF THE DIENG. 215
looked down on the valley of the Dieng, about a
hundred feet below us.
To our left, before making the steep descent
into the valley, I saw that the mountain side in
one part was embanked, and flagged with large
slabs of granite, in which ste])S had been cut.
Whether these stones were the remains of walls of
protection, which had fallen back and become im-
bedded by time in the earth, or whether they had
been placed there to prevent the slipping of sand
and stone into the valley, I was unable to learn;
though, from the fact of this having been once a
place of importance to the Buddhists, the former
supposition may ])robably be the most correct.
As the day was well-nigh spent, and rain again
fell in torrents, we took shelter in the large, cold
I'assangrahan, in whieh we were to ])ass the night,
and from it we looked out on the dreary view before
us. Tlie valky Iji'low covers an area of about a
mile in circiunferi'nce, a ciiain of hills, shaped
216 LIFE IN JAVA.
almost like a crescent, forming the boundary to the
left, and the road to Batoor that to our right. On
this plateau, which is now a complete swamp, and
covered in many parts with blocks of stone, we saw
the ruins of five small temples, built with hewn
trachyte, ornamented with a few decorations, which
time and the climate had here and there permitted
to remain. Behind these temples is the remains of
a road, which had formerly been paved, leading to
a larger temple on the brow of a hill. There are
numerous other small ruins, the stones of which
they were built being, in some places, thickly strewn
about. Indeed, the remains of buildings are so
numerous, that the whole place has the aspect of a
town razed to the ground. Whether these ruined
buildings were once habitable houses, or only tem-
ples, as the name Chundi Dieng signifies, it would
be impossible to determine. Coins, rings, bracelets,
and other ornaments, are frequently picked up
amongst the rubbish ; and, in fact, I had previously
THE TOLOGO LERI. 217
seen many such articles which I had been tohl
were found here.
The Tologo Leri, the latter name meaning water
in which rice has been washed, is between two and
three miles to the east of the Passangralian. Our
way to it lay under the Prau and Mondrobo moun-
tains. The lake lies in a shallow basin, surrounded
by hills ; and the water is of such a milky colour
that the native name of Leri is most applicable. It
seemed to bo in a boiling heat, the steam rising
thick and buljbling, as though over a large fire.
Continuing our route, we came to a small village,
at which we dismounted from our horses, and then
ascended on foot to the ridge of a deep hollow, called
IVkareman, situated under the Gunong Giemat, a
j)art of the Prau cliain. This hollow is a liundred
feet in dci)th, with a dried-up bed about thirty feet
in diameter, coated witii a reddish brown mould.
The Wodono told us that at one extremity of the
hollow there is a noxious escaj)e of gas at certain
218 LIFE IN JAVA.
seasons of the year, the effects of which would be
fatal to any person who ventured too near. As the
vapour was now escaping, the Wodono, to prove
the truth of his statement ])y actual experience,
procured some fowls to throw in. The first bird
no sooner found itself at liberty, than it ran in
an opposite direction, and did not stop until it
reached some brushwood, under which it crept,
and soon vanished from sight. The second was
not so fortunate, being thrown more directly over
the fatal spot. The moment, however, it regained
its feet, it attempted to rush up the mountain side,
as though some evil genii were at its heels. But
before many seconds had elapsed, the whole neck
and head seemed suddenly convulsed, and flapping
its wings in agony, it rolled over and expired.
Natives, when afflicted with melancholy, ati bin-
(joong, repair to this spot to try their luck. If their
low spirits arise from the frustration of any desired
object, they sleep near the lake a whole night, and
CnONDERO DI MOEKO. 219
if they live to see the light of the following day,
they feel assured of gaining the ohject of their
wish. If, on the contrary, the poor, credulous in-
dividual hreathes his last before the morning
breaks, his death is attributed, not to the gas, but
to the vengeance of a Pungooroo, or evil spirit.
Prosecuting our excursion still further, we went
to see another lake, or rather pond, called Chondero
dl Moeko. It covers a space of about twenty feet,
and its waters flow away in a narrow streamlet
which runs steamin<j; alono;. Near the centre we
saw three or four jets, like fountains, the boiling
water rising to fully four or fi\e feet above the
level of the jx^nd, and the hot spray falling around.
The margin and sides consisted of soft, hot mud,
suljihurcous deposits, and small blocks of limestone,
which, from time t(j time, had lieeu ejected witli
the water. At a short <Ustance are two small ori-
fices vomiting fortii boiUng nuiddv Ihilds, and from
tlie sides of a rock, not many yards off, \ohunes of
220 LIFE IN JAVA.
water were gushing forth with a tremendous force,
foaming like a troubled sea. These phenomena of
nature, accompanied by a continuous rolling sub-
ten'anean noise, together with the indescribably-
wild character of the scenery, struck us with
Avonder and awe ; and, after having seen all, we
were not sorry to turn our backs on a locality so
startling.
In perfect contrast to the scene thus described,
was the lake which we were next shown, about a
mile from Chondero di Moeko, called Sumoor
Tjototundo, which is situated higher up the Prau,
at the foot of a tall peak, and surrounded by tro-
pical trees and vegetation. So quiet is the scene,
so calm the sheltered waters, that our approach
seemed the only sign of life; and so still was every-
thing, that one might well have fancied that the
trees and their briijht-tinted fo]iao;e had all, with
the lake beneath, been petrified by the touch of
some fairy's wand.
GLIMPSE OF BATOOR. 221
All these lakes and sprinf]^s, being situated with-
in two or three miles of each other, and chiefly on
or near the Prau mountain, form an easy day's ex-
cursion from the Passangrahan at Dieng.
We stopped, on our way back, to obtain a glimpse
of Batoor, which is six miles from Dieng. It is
situated on the spur of a low mountain of the same
name, and is remarkable for some ruins, and a
small, unmixed Chinese population, who go about
in furs throughout the year, no Javanese caring to
reside there, on account of the cold.
As we approached the Dieng, on our return, I
perceived .several low })lllars standing at e((ui-dis-
tances frcjiu each other, and extending in an
o])li(jue line frc)m the road to the tenij)les. The
surface of the ground on which they stood was con-
vex, ;iud overgrown with tliick grass, under which
it seems ])robabl(^ there was once a subterranean
|)assag( -sucli, at least, was the AVodono's opinion.
The ancients, he added, nsetl to tether elephants to
222 LIFE IN JAVA.
these pillars. On entering into conversation with
the Wodono, he told me that the great battle,
known in Javanese history as the Brotoyudo, took
place here. The storj of this battle may be told
in very few words. Ardjiino, the brother of Biemo,
became, on the death of his father Pandu, the heir
to the whole Dieng, but, being too young to
manage his own affairs, they were intrusted to the
care of an elder member of the family, who, giving
offence to Ngastino, king of the country now called
Pekalongan, this sovereign marched with a great
force up the Prau, and, before many days, Drought
desolation to the once populous town of Dieng.
After this it became a penal settlement, or land of
exile, for the refractory, who, during the period of
their banishment, erected these temples to expiate
tlieir crimes.
Xext morning, after an early breakfast, we rode
to the Talogo Warno, a lake of many colours,
about a mile beyond the Dieng, in an opposite di-
LAKE WARXO. 223
rection to those we liacl seen before. On our way
we passed by tlie temple of Biemo, or, as he is also
called, yiukudoro and Sana. This fane is on a
hill to the right of the road, and is more perfect
than any of the others on the plateau. The lake
Warno is at the base of the Brambanan moun-
tains, and is about three hundred yards long,
covered in part with rushes. The water presented
a diversity of colours truly extraordinary. One
portion was bright yellow, another a beautiful
emerald green, another light blue, then rose, orange,
and milky white, the various hues gradually pass-
ing into each other. We could not attribute this
wonderful effect to atmosplieric influence, for we
were told that the lake was always the same during
the dry and wet monsoons.
Three black ducks were the only living objects
we saw, which, to juilge froni their glossy plumage,
seemed to thrive well in these sulphureous regions.
Fi'om iiere we walked to the Chundi Bumie,
224 LIFE IX JAVA.
a temple above thirty feet high, the style of archi-
tecture differing slightly from that of those we had
seen in the valley. In the four facades of the tower,
besides several empty niches, are recesses still filled
with monstrous-shaped heads. A good view of the
Dieng, with its temples, and of other mountains in
the neighbourhood, also crowned with sacred
buildings, is obtained from this position.
The clouds, which for some time had looked
dark and lowering, now rained down upon us such
a pelting shower, that we urged our horses on to a
brisk pace, in order that we might see all there was
to be seen, and return as soon as possible to the
Dieng. After a tedious series of ascents and
descents, we at length arrived at the Kawa
Kedung, a hot muddy valley between the Bram-
banan and Modrodo. The base of the latter moun-
tain is thickly encrusted with sulphureous matter,
running down like lava from the crevices on its
sides, accompanied at intervals with dense volumes
PAINFUL INCIDENT. 225
of smoke, and a rumbling noise, so deafening that
we had to speak very loudly in order to hear each
other.
About the middle of this steaming valley is
seen a slough, or pond, from which a spring, con-
stantly bubbling, spouts volumes of boiling water
into the air. There are also smaller pools near
it. The whole scene is indescribably dreary and
melancholy, rendered more so by its association
with a sad event.
A controlcur who had visited this spot, being
desirous of making an accurate sketch of the hot
springs, ventured most rasjdy to walk across u
jiortion of a pool wliich aj)i)eared to him perfectly
safe. He ]ia<l nf)t proceeded many steps, however,
before th(,' around be<j;;ni to iiive wav under him,
and he sank up to his waist in boih"ng nuid, suljduir,
and water. His friend, and tlie natives present,
span-d no effort to extricate liini from his [)erik>us
])f)>ition, anil after con^ideraljItMliflicukv, and u'lvat
VOL. II. Q
226 LIFE IX JAVA.
risk to tlieir own lives, succeeded in doing so, and
conveyed him immediately to the hospital of
Wonosobo, where the wretched sufferer lingered in
great agony for a few hours, and expired, the lower
portion of his person having been literally boiled.
When his boots were drawn off, the flesh fell off
with them, leaving only the bare bones, so complete
had been the work of destruction in so short a space
of time.
On our return we took a hasty lunch, and started
for Wonosobo. As we had not provided ourselves
with any waterproof clothing, a most essential de-
sideratum for Oriental excursions, we followed the
example of our attendants, and borrowed blankets
from the villagers. These we wore doubled in two,
a handkerchief being passed between the folds,
the ends of which served as strings by which
to tie them round the neck. Thus each blan-
ket was converted into an admirable cloak, and
proved almost as impervious to the wet as a
CURIOUS NATIVE BELIEF. 227
Macintosh, and certainly much warmer. The
rain, wliicli only drizzled when we left the
Passan^rahan, poured down in torrents soon after
we lost sight of the gap leading to the Dieng.
Vivid flashes of lightning followed each other in
quick succession, and when the thunder rolled, the
mountains, which hemmed us in on either side, re-
verberated its sound, each time ai)j)arently louder
and nearer than the last. No one seemed to be in
a talkative humour as we descended, the grandeur
of the scene having awed us into silence.
It began to clear up just before we reached the
vilhige at which we st()p[)e(l on ascending ; and tin-
AVodiHio seemed more lively and anxious to con-
verse. He t(jld me a cuiMCius native belief, which,
h(.' said, was menti(jned in their Koralum, or holy
book namely, that the Island of Java, from its vol-
canic natni\', would betlu- first ])lace in the world to
ignite at the last dav ; but that the native's were to
be ke]it in a safe ])laee until the conflagration was
q2
228 LIFE IN JAVA.
over, when tliey shoiild return as masters of the
whole island.
In speaking of Javanese prosperity under the
Dutch rule, as compared with their abject state
when governed by native princes, whose ambition
and tyranny frequently knew no bounds, the Wo-
dono said that the conquest and occupation of Java
by the Dutch was foretold in the books of the kings
of Modjophait.
" We are told to look up to them," said he, " as
our fathers; and as they were predestined to be our
rulers, we are commanded to render them hormald,
not only as a mark of respect to them, but as a
])art of our own faith. To show you, sir, that the
Iving of Holland is related to our ancient line of
kinofs, we find a tale which 1 Avill relate to you from
one of the sacred books. A king of Modjophait
had a daughter who was very beautiful, but
arHicted with an incurable disease, which the
father considered a stiiima on the roval blood. He
PROPHECY FULFILLED. 229
ordered the poor girl to be taken out in a boat into
the open sea, and there left alone, to drift into
some friendly harbour or perish. For two days
the frail l)ark floated at the mercy of the wind and
waves, but on the third day it was espied by the ca])-
tain of a vessel, on board of which was a European
king. The captain turned his ship's head imme-
diately in the direction of the little boat, which he
soon reached ; and every one on board was asto-
nished to find in it only a young girl, who, the
boat having neither sail, oar, nor rudder, was drift-
ing lielj)less on the waters. The Euro]>ean king,
notwithstanding the objection of some of the crew,
who said this must be an onoxj ai/u, or mermaid,
bad the boat iiauled alongside, its inmate taki-n on
board, and kindly treated. On arriving in Euroj)*;
the monarch jilaced the ^//ri>, or virgin, under tiie
rare of a Icarn(Ml man, who soon healed the diseas(>
under which slie hail been labonring. When she
was restored to perfect health he married ber to his
230 LIFE IN JAVA.
own son, who, on the demise of his father, ascended
the throne. The white king was doubtless the
King of Holland ; and thus one of our old sayings,
which in olden times puzzled the heads of priests
and learned men, is now fulfilled : ' The patme^
though a castaway, will eventually sway the sceptre
of Java.'"
This cunningly-devised story, as will be observed,
might apply equally well to any European nation,
but one cannot help admiring their adroitness in
concluding it to moan the one to whose rule they
are compelled to svibmit. The sacred books, called
the Joyoboyo, appear to have been written by the
Sultan Agong, some of whose sayings, or prophe-
cies, have come true, or, at least, have met with
wonderful coincidences, whilst othei's are still
shrouded in mystery.
When we came in view of Wonosobo and
Bafjelano;, we found the sawahs so numerous, and
so swollen with rain, that, from a distance, they
TEA GODOWNS. 231
looked like a succession of lakes, one above the
other. Any one who, unaware of the manner of
cultivating rice, had looked down upon them as we
did, would have concluded, from the quantity of
water in every direction, that there had been very
extensive inundations.
Before leaving Wonosobo, we went to see the
tea godowns. So much has been said and written
about the planting and preparing of tea, that it
would be supei-fluous in me to make any remarks
about it. Indeed, I think we only require, now,
to be taught how to gwto the plant in our native
soil, in order to produce as good tea as Jolm
Chinaman, and thus become independent of his
yearly exports I
The regular process is gone through at tlie go-
downs. The tea is dried and rendered fit for ex-
portation to Holland, where it is used to mix with
pure China. The leading evqiloijts are Chinese,
who seem to be considered indispensable as super-
232 LIFE IN JAVA.
intendents in this peculiar business. The flavour
of Java tea bears, however, no comparison with
that of Bohea, Souchong, or Pekoe ; but whether
this deficiency is attributable to a reluctance on
the score of Chinamen to impart to fanquis, or
strangers, the mysteries of their flavouring art, or
to the difference of soil and climate, I was not in-
formed.
CHAPTER VIII.
LEAVE FOR BAXD.JARXEGARA HOSPITABLE NATIVE HIS MT-
SEUM BREAKFAST WITH THE JAVANESE REGENT LATE IN-
LWDATIOXS ARRIVE AT TJILATJAP GOOD HARBOUR SALT
DEPOT THE FOP.T STALACTITE GROTTOES ADJIBAKENC
CfRIOUS MISTAKE -TAGAI. CHERIBOX CURIOUS BUILDINGS
COOL SLKEl>IX(f ROOM PROCEED TO SAMADANG FROM
THENCE TO liAXDOXG TAKOE BEX PRAU DESCENT INTO OXE
OF THE CRATER.S JAVAXESE VEXERATIOX FOR THEIR CHIEFS
f)UR rees-wa(;ex.
235
CHAPTER YIII.
The next route we proposed takinf^ was to
Tjilatjap, via Bandjarnegara and Banjoemas. A
drive of thirty miles, through a hilly country and
sandy districts, shaded by thick groves of betel-nut
and cocoa-nut, brought us to the Ivegent's house at
Bandjarnegara. We found this gentleman a most
hospitable host, and quite a Javanese virtuoso ;
having a museum in his house, filled with an
envial)le collection of anti(juities from the Dieng,
and other localities, cousistiug of cooking utensils,
round trays, adorned with embossed figures, some
of which resembled those representing tlie signs of
the zodiac on an old bronze cup which 1 ob-
tained whilst at Djokdja. Some of these ancient
236 LIFE IN JAVA.
articles are not vinlike those we ourselves have
adopted from the Romans.
By six o'clock next morning Ave were on our
way to Banjoemas, a town in tlie Residency of the
same name. The roads on this route were very
heavy and hilly, in consequence of which buffaloes
were again brought into requisition. When we
arrived, we drove up to the house of the Regent,
with whom we breakfasted. Radhen Adipatti
Jakra Negara, for such was his name, spoke with
great pride of the visit of Sir Stamford Raffles to
his father, which he well remembered, his present
house being then in course of completion. What
struck his then boyish mind was the manner in
which the active governor, in some mountain ex-
cursions they made, outstripped his suite of gentle-
men and attendants.
We were informed by him that Banjoemas had
recently been the scene of fearful inundations, in
consequence of the river Serayu having overflowed
DISASTROUS INUNDATION. 237
its banks, altliouo;li forty feet in lieif^ht. The in-
habitants were quite taken by surprise, the water
risinr^ so rapidly in many places that they had to
swim to house-tops, trees, &c., and there wait to be
])icked up by some more fortunate neighbour who
had succeeded in obtaining boats. Three hundred
lives were lost, besides a fpiantity of cattle and
goods of various kinds. Some Europeans, amongst
whom were the liesident and his wife, were
obliged to seek a safe retreat in the top story of
their lu)uses, where for a few days they subsisted
on the scanty food they had seized in their hurried
flight uj)-stairs.
Though a few montlis had elajised since this
disastrous occurrence, munlstakeable trai-es of its
sad effects were still (jbserv;d)le in the ruined huts,
orchai-ds, and gi'ass land, the lattei" being of a sickly
ycil(jw colour, while the boughs of tJK' fruit-trees
were bi'oken by t!ie wriglit of the wati'r.
Another di'l\c of the -anie l-nutli as the last
238 LIFE IX JAVA.
carried us through flat, uninteresting, sandy
country ; the open and exposed route being occa-
sionally sheltered by groves of teak. Crossing the
river Serayu, we arrived at Tjilatjap, a small sea-
port town situated at the bend of a bay in the
Indian Ocean, opposite the little island of Nousa
Kambungan. Its harbour bears the palm before
all others in Java, as the safest, the deepest,
and most accessible place of refuge in stormy
weather.
The town, which is neatly planned, is an exten-
sive government salt depot for the southern pro-
vinces of Java the salt being conveyed here by
vessels from the mines of Sumanup in Madura.
It also serves as a penal settlement for native
criminals. The chief attraction of the place is its
proximity to the island of Nousa Kambungan, on
wdiich are some beautiful stalactite caverns, and a
fort called Karang Bolong, commanding the south-
east passage.
THE GIBRALTAR OF THE EAST. 239
The harbour is like a miniature lake, the entrance
at the west being completely hidden by projections
of land from the island and mainland ; and that at
the east only just sufficiently open to enable one to
catch a glimpse of the sea beyond. Nousa Kam-
bungan is about fourteen miles in length, and very
hilly ; but the eye seeks in vain for a barren spot,
all being clothed with a varied combination of the
most luxuriant foliage, extending from the hill-tops
to the margin of the water.
The fort is at the eastern point of the island,
overlooking the sea, and, being built on the shelf
of a rock, is considered by Dutchmen as the
(libraltar of the East. As there are more ways
than one by whicli an enemy could get to the rear
of it, from adjacent enunenccs, and literally look
down into the stronghold, 1 could not exactly see
what tli(.y could say to an attac;k h'oui that (piarter;
but that, I w;is infonucfl, was rendereil imjxis.silde
bv another furt in the middle of the island, called
240 LIFE IN JAVA.
Bangoe Njappa. Being no strategist, I yielded to
their better judgment on such matters.
The name Karang Bolong is derived from a
Koche Percee, which stands prominently in the sea
a short distance from the fort, whose walls are very
thick, and within which there is plenty of accom-
modation for men, provisions, and ammunition, to
stand out a lengthened siege, an event which I
hope heaven may long forbid.
Returning from the fort, and sailing a short dis-
tance beyond the town, we came to the Grotto of
Lusumb Buntoo, which we reached by ascending
a path cut through the wood. The entrance is
small, and thickly surrounded by trees. On pass-
ing in, we found ourselves in the most spacious-
looking grotto I ever remember to have seen. The
iioor in part is formed of stalagmite, and from the
vaulted summit or roof of the cave and the sides
hung most beautiful stalactites, like rich drapery,
j)ure white, and glittering in many parts like dia-
CURIOUS FISH. 241
monds. Numbers of columns, some perfect, others
broken, were to be seen on all sides, several en-
crusted with stalactites presenting the appearance
of bunches of grapes or the leaves of trees. As
we advanced farther in we found almost a perfect-
shaped dome, from the outer edge of which were
suspended stalactites resembling a fringe of icicles.
Tlie men who accompanied us lit some damar
torches, the effect of which was startling and
grand.
Before we entered the boat to return, the men gave
us some curious fish which they had just cauglit,
called by the natives cuda and sapi laot, sea-horse
and sea-cow. The foriner we have all most pro-
bably seen, but the latter 1 never saw before they
were shown to me in Java. It is a small fish,
very thick in the body, wliich in form is almost
the /(i.c simile of a cow's head and neck, even to
two small hoi'ns which crown its head. It has
two fins at the sides and one at the end of it.'^
VOL. II. U
242 LIFE IN JAVA.
short body its chief distinguishing marks as a
fish. About a mile and a half from this grotto
are two small ones, which, the stalactites having
formed themselves into shapes somewhat similar
to a chair and a tomb, are respectively called the
pulpit and the grave of Jacob, The tradition
attached to the island of Nousa Kambungang is
curious and amusing. It is said that this island
was formerly a part of the Gunong Slamat, but
in consequence of the encroachments of the sea on
this part of Java, the waters, as the natives terra
it, " eating the coast," it was thought necessary to
place some barrier to the rapid advances of the
ocean. Accordingly some genii devoted to the
service of the natives brought away a portion of
the Gunong Slamat, and planted it where the
island now stands, thus breaking the force of the
advancing waves and preventing the gradual dis-
appearance of the land. Soon after a wealthy
Rajali came to see the place, and being delighted
NOUSA KAMBUNGANG. 243
with the new isLind, fixed his aliode on it, and
before long became a powerfnl independent
prince.
The name, Xonsa Kambungang, signifies, ac-
cording to some interpretations, " floating island,"
and, according to others, "a garden of flowers," an
Interpretation supported by the fact of its pro-
ducing, amongst several other beautiful flowers,
one called AA'^ejoyokesumo, which was supposed
only to open on the occasion of a Sultan's corona-
tion or tlie marriage of a royal prince or princess,
and could be found only by a virtuous man, the
touch of a re])robate causing it instantly to shrivel
up and die.
A mission, attended with great "pomp and cir-
cumstance," was sent out in (piest of this singular
flower, which tluy were so fortunate as to discover.
The ofHcial a])[)ointed to bear it returnt'd with it
mounted on a richly caparisoned steed, shaded
under a canopy of gold, and fdllowed by a l(ng
R 2
244 LIFE IN JAVA.
retinue and a band of music, many of the villagers
in the different hamlets through which they passed
joining the cortege, until, by the time they reached
the gates of the Sultan's Kraton, their company
had swelled into a large crowd.
This flower, which is believed to be now extinct,
has been succeeded by one of another kind, called
the Patma. Whenever this flower, which is about
the size of a goblet, opens, it is said to burst with a
loud report like that of a pistol. Its leaves are de-
scribed as being large in size and brown in hue
the flower is tinted with the varied colours of the
rainbow.
The echo in this harbour is very fine. A gentle-
man who commanded a vessel at anchor in the bay
fired his cannons on pvu'pose for us to hear the
grand effect produced by the reverberation of sound.
The phenomenon was really remarkably impressiv^e,
the waves of sound rolling from one end of the
island to the other, with a noise like thunder, and
THE NIGHT WATCHES. 245
ending in a loud crash, like that of an explosion.
The climate of Tjilatchap is warmer than that of
Bandjarnegara, resembling more that of the towns
on the northern coast; but towards evening we
found the air cool and pleasant. The thermometer
during the day averages from 80^ to 85" Fahren-
heit.
^Vc left next day for the interior of the island,
going northward to Agiebarang via Bandjarne-
gara. Here we found the Passangrahan better
provided with some of the luxuries of life than
most of tlu-m are. As we arrived late, we decided
on retiring early. Al)out eight o'clock, however,
we heard a strange hollow sound, which, so far as
it took any .'irticulate form, resembled '"tok, tok,
tok, tok." Suj)posiiig tin's to be the prinu'tive music
of s(jme ignorant natives who had statir.ned them-
selves before our house on i)iu-p()se to serena.le us,
I told Drahman to tell them I would ]-ather they
^vould come on the morrow, as we were so fatifmed
246 LIFE IN JAVA.
with the day's journey, that we were not in the
key to enjoy a nocturnal concert. Drahman's
reply, though amushicp in its way, was by no means
cheering to those who, exhausted with fatigue,
were anticipating the comfort of a night's repose.
" These," sir, said he, smiling, " are the night
watches; they will go on like that till four o'clock
in the morning !"
The village of Adgiebarang is prettily situated
in the vicinity of a mountainous district. Putey
and Karang are the loftiest peaks in the neigbour-
hood, and the rich valleys beneath them are seen
to advantage from a hillock not far beyond the
Passangrahan.
The two following days were employed in cross-
ing the chain of mountains dividing the residences
of Tagal and Banjoemas a very tedious journey,
entailing a frequent change of coolies and horses.
Some ])arts of the road, indeed, being quite im-
practicable to the latter, we were obliged to employ
CHERIBOX. 247
men, as "\ve did on oiu' journey to Wonosobo.
On our arrival at Tagal, -we stayed at an liotel,
and proceeded next morning to Cheribon, passing
over tlie numerous small streams between that town
and Losari, tlie fifth post from it. We came once
more in siglit of the sea at Cheribon, which is
situated on the coast. The harbour is considered
to be one of the best on the northern side of tb.e
island. The town struck us as more like a Dutch
one than any we had yet seen in Java. A drive of
two miles in the country Ijrings the traveller to the
ruins of a kind of chateau (Cectu, once the ])roperty
of Sultan Adcwijaya, a descendant of Sheik ^fau-
lana, an Arab adventuri-r, who, after subjugating
the petty princes who came in his way, made him-
self Sukan of this province in 14.S0. Adewijaya,
following tlic example of his ancestor, gained ])os-
session of I'antam, and coiuerted all liis subjects
to ]\Ialiomedanism. The present Sultans of Cheri-
bon, wlio are ])en.sionei's (f the Dutch Govern-
248 LIFE IN JAVA.
nient, are said to be the descendants of these con-
(^uerors.
The facade of this singular building consists of
several towers, hke kiosks surrounded with veran-
dahs, each of which is ascended by a spiral stair-
case in the interior. At the back of the chateau is
an artificial lake, studded with numbers of isles
and islets, communicating with each other by
means of subterranean passages. This lake, which
now unfortunately has more the air of a swamp
than of a clear sheet of water, is thickly grown
with tall rushes. In the interior of the main
])ortion of the building are several apartments
connected with each other by small bridges, span-
ning narrow dry channels, which were once run-
ning rivulets.
The object of the luxury-loving Sultan in erect-
ing a place of this kind seems to have been an
eccentric desire to enjoy the alternate periods of
amusement and repose, in which his life was passed,
CHATEAU d'eau. 249
amid an incessant sound of rushing and falling
water. When the lake and rivulets were full, and
the primitive fountains played, his abode must
have resembled some of those enchanting habita-
tions described in the "Ai'abian Nights." Almost
in every room there is a fountain. The water
still continuing to flow in many of the upper
chambers, rushes in torrents from the top of the
towers, falling over steps, arranged on purpose,
into the basins below. In the courts adjoining are
numerous tanks, profusely ornamented with birds,
fish, animals, and serpents in stone. These sculp-
tured figures are ])laced in every direction some
appearing to glide through artificial brushwood,
and otiu-rs perched on trees. The water must
once have been ejecte<l in glittering streams from
every mouth and nostril; but, as I concluded, owing
to sometbing wrong in their internal mechanism, or
the dellection of the water hito some other channel,
few now discharge their oliice. One room, rather
250 LIFE IX JAVA.
apart from tlie rest of the building, which is ap-
proached by a bridge, goes by the name of the
uyer clnmhoo, or curtain of water. In a large
alcove in this apartment, once gorgeously fitted up,
the Sultan used to enjoy his siesta, the curtain that
protected his privacy consisting of a cascade, which,
like a transparent veil, fell gently before him.
The materials employed in this building are the
same as those used by the Chinese in making their
artificial grottoes and rockeries, viz, mud, mortar,
and cement, studded profusely with shells, flint,
and large round pebbles.
I was told that this chateau was the work of two
ingenious, hard-working Chinamen, whose patient
toil and unwearied labour the cruel and jealous
Sultan rewarded by depriving them of their eyes.
Fearful lest any of the neighbouring princes, his
rivals, might attempt the construction of a similar
palace, he conceived that this cruel act was the
only means by which the accomplishment of such
REGENCIES OF THE PREAXGER. 251
a design could be prevented, satisfying liis con-
science for depriving the poor arcliitects of sight
by the bestowal of large sums upon them in the
form of pensions for life.
Although there are many interesting mountain
excursions in tlie province of Cheribon, we shall
only mention that to the Talaga, a lake of clear
fresh water on the summit of a mountain bearing
the same name, situated about thirty miles from
Cheribon. It is a deep lake, much larger than
the Mendjer, and surrounded by mountains of a
lofty altitude. From one of the mountains may bo
obtained a line bird's-eye view of the rich, hilly,
and alhivia! country of Ciieribon, the sea spreading
in a wide ex])anse before the delighted eye of the
ifazer,
Leaving this town and its very comfortable
hotel, we pursued our journey, and soon entered
into the i'rcaugcr lu-gcnt Schappcn, or Kcgriicies
of the i'reaugi'i', whicli are under the jurisdiction
252 LIFE IN JAVA.
of a Regent and Assistant Resident. These pro-
vinces, which are the most mountainous of all the
Residencies in Java, are called by some Europeans
the Switzerland of the island.
After crossing the broad river Tji-moenock,
which, with the Tarum, includes within its wide
embrace a portion of the Preanger, and the Resi-
dencies of Krawang and Indramayoe, we drove
under the shadow of the Gunong Tamponas, and
arrived at Samadung, a village with some fine
European houses. The dwellings of the natives
are mostly tiled, showing the wealth and position
of their occupants.
The next day we proceeded to Bandong, where
there is a seat of one of the Regents, renowned for
his hospitality, and, like his confrere of Tjandjor,
very fond of horse-racing and the chase.
We arrived at Bandong in the afternoon ; and
next morning drove in a light carriage northwards
to the hamlet of Lembang, passing by houses and
TANKO-BEX-rRAU. 253
huts belonging both to Javanese and Sundanese,
the population along the whole road being much
mixed. I could see no difference in physiognomy
between these two races, thoufrh, as a general rule,
the Sundanese are stouter built, and their muscles
better developed.
The most prominent object in the view before
us was the Tanko-ljcn-Prau, or the inverted boat, so
called from its resemblance to a boat with its keel up-
wards. When we reached Lembang, the mountain
seemed quite close to us, though still fully five miles
off. To our left, covered with a forest of thick trees,
we saw the Bourang-rang, a mountain about the
same lieight as the Tanko-ben-Prau, while to the
east our eyes ran along the Samadung chain.
Having mounted the first ponies that were ready
tor us, we were soon galloj)ing over a well-beaten
path leading to tlie J*rau. We passed along under
an a\eime of widL'-sprcading trees, upon the trunks
and branches of which hung air plants, or orchids,
254 LIFE IN JAVA.
with a variety of leaves and beautiful flowers
gracefully hanging on their slender stems. The
air, which we found cool at Bandong (two thou-
sand feet above the level of the sea), began now,
as we neared the summit of the mountain, to grow
chilly.
Issuing out of the sombre shade formed by the
trees along the whole route up the mountain, we
came suddenly on the ridge of the Kawa-opus
crater, which the ^landoer told us was a mile in
circumference, and seven hundred feet deep. A
large lake, the water of which is yellow, bubbles at
the bottom ; the vapour which rises from it ascend-
ing in dense clouds above its surface. Trees and
shrubs grow on the sides of the precipices, soften-
ing the otherwise sterile aspect of the place. Those,
however, which have imprudently sprung up near
the margin of the lake, are either burnt up, leafless,
or withering.
Separated by a shelving ridge, we found on the
PERPENDICULAE DESCENT. 255
opposite side another crater, called the Kawa Ratu,
which is seen to better advantan;e hv descending
into the interior. The way, which at a first glance
seems easy enough, we found before going many
steps to be cpiite the reverse. The descent is
almost ])eri)endicular: and there beinix no reo-ular
])ath, you are obliged to pick your way amongst
loose stones, and hard cakes of clay, which in some
places were very slippery. When we had descended
about half-wa}', we came to an escarpment, from
whicli we looked down on the active ])ortiou of the
volcano, whence issued sounds like the moaninc of
tlie wind on a stormy niglit. These sounds the super-
stitious natives believe to })e the groaning of certain
giants cliaiiied underground by a wicked gnome.
Venturing to descend still lower, we had a more
listinct view of the chimneys or a])ertures in tlie
Kawa Ivatu; some of which oidy ])resent the ap-
pearance of extinct craters in miniature, wliile from
others the smoke forces itself in dense volumes,
256 LIFE IN JAVA.
preceded by hoarse noises, as though the vents
were too small for the great rush of vapour pro-
ceeding from them. The sounds we heard were
very distinct and loud, in consequence of our prox-
imity. The orifices are encrusted with thick
deposits of a red and yellow substance, the ground
on all sides being of a yellowish brown hue, in con-
sequence of the quantity of sulphur with which
the air is impregnated. A few of the holes were
filled with Avater, blue as the sky above us, and
apparently boiling hot. We lingered to gaze on
this wondrous scene as long as we could stay, but
the smoke, which sometimes rose in clouds before
our faces, obliging us to close our eyes, compelled
us at last to retreat, glad of having had the oppor-
tunity of seeing thus much.
This crater, if not more, is at least four hundred
feet long, and I should say about three hundred
wide.
On our way back, we saw tlie extensive plains
RESPECT FOR SUPERIOR RANK. 257
of Bandong, famed for the stag hunts which take
place tliere during tlie dry seasons of the year,
after the paddy has been gathered in. On these
occasions, tlie Regent and his sons are accompanied
by a Large retinue of huntsmen and Europeans,
who take part in the exciting sport. An incident
occurred some time ao;o, during; one of these cjather-
ings, whicli sliows tlie strong feeling of veneration
with \\hicli the natives regard all who are above
them in rank. A young chief, son of the Regent,
was following close upon a deer, when a huntsman,
in the act of ])lunging his kriss into the animal,
accidentally inflicted a slight wound in the leg of
the young man. As the only alternative left, in
order to expiate what in the eyes of the natives is
regarded as a dreadful crime, the huntsman im-
mediatelv withdrew and committed suicide; thus
averting, as they believe, the vengeance of Allah
from the heads of his family and relatives.
As we passed the shed under whi(.'h our Kees-
VOL. II. f5
258 LIFE IN JAVA.
Wagen had found a shelter, we were astonished to
find a crowd gathered before it. Chiefs, followed
by their payong bearers and retinue and numbers
of natives, men and women, many with children
on their shoulders stood gazing at what think
our readers? not at the Rees- Wagen itself, for such
a vehicle is so common as to be considered no
object of curiosity not at our collection of birds,
fowls, skins, horns, &c. &c., which were stowed
away in every available corner of the cannage ; but
at the two white turtles, which not even the oldest
inhabitant in the whole place had ever seen any-
thing like before.
CILVPTER IX.
i:OAD TO T.JAXn.JOU VIEW OF THE PANGAnANGO ANOTHKU
DIFFICULTY WITH HORSES UNPLEASANT DISCOVERY SITUA-
TION OF SINANGLAYA ASCENT OF THE PANGARANGO
(QUININE TREES VARIETY OF ORCHIDS WATERFALLS A
NKHIT ON THE MOUNTAIN GATEWAY OF RATO PAJAJARRAN
THE GllEDDi: THE DOCTOR'S " ETABLLSMENT" MEGAMUN-
DONG MOL'NTAIN AKRIVE AT I!UVTEN/.Oi;G (;OVERNOR-
GENEP>AL"S PALACE AND GliOUNDS FEAST OF SEDAKA lUIMIE
i;ktui;n to p.atavia visit to raden saleh we hid
adieu to .lwa.
s2
261
CHAPTER IX.
E.VRLYiiext morningwe leftfor Tjaiidjor(Clianjor),
tlie road to wliicli, througli a mountainous district,
i.s a continuous ascent and descent. Beyond tlie
second post we drove under a high, rock}' moun-
tain called Ilawa, or the kitchen ; a peculiar appel-
lation, derived from some stones of enormous size,
sha])ed somewliat like culinary utensils, wliicli the
Sundanese assert to liave formerly belonged to the
Gragasset'S, or giants, who inhabited these parts
hundreds of years ago.
.Vbout live miles farther on, we came in sight of
the Paiigaraiigo and (iliedde mountains, as fami-
liar to JJataviaus as Mont Plauc and Vesuvius are
to us.
After the iiftli ]ost, Ivajahmundula, the road
202 LIFE IN JAVA.
descended so abruptly, that horses were dispensed
with, and, to prevent our too rapid progress, ropes
were attached to the back of the carriage, which
were held by coolies, who gradually let it wheel
down for some distance. On approaching the foot
of the hill, they raised a loud shout, and our vehicle,
being allowed to take its course, dashed on at a
tremendous rate, until, after a sharp and sudden
turn, we found ourselves brought to a pause in
safety on a bridge spanning the Gitarang river.
The pushing and hauling our llees-Wagen up the
opposite side was not so rapidly accomplished.
Continuing our journey, we passed through
scenery wild and romantic beyond description.
Tjandjor, like Bandong, abounds in native and
Chinese houses, but possesses few of those beauti-
ful Euro])ean mansions and seats which make the
former one of the prettiest inland towns of Java.
Here we were again annoyed about post-horses,
which we found it impossible to obtain. " The
SCARCITY OF POST-HORSES. 263
Governor-General being at Tjapanus only twenty
miles off amusing himself, no horses whatever
could be supplied, as they might be telegraphed for
at any moment." Such was the answer given to
every inquiry we made, and how to proceed we
knew not. To remain at Tjandjor would only be
waste of time, as in any case we must have awaited
the Governor's pleasure : so, after a short council
between ourselves, we decided to hire buffaloes, and
trust to chance for picking up help on the road.
Drahman was accordingly despatched in search of
the animals, but returned very soon with the
dispiriting intelh'gence tliat none could be found,
all being at work in the fields, and not one for hire.
Disappointed, but not discouraged, we sent him off
a second tune, and after some delay he came back,
acconij)anit'(l by a man leading a yoke of oxen,
whicli were ipiickly attaclied to the carriage by
means of sundry ropes. As soon as the necessary
}>rej)arations were made, we entered the vehicle,
264 LIFE IN JAVA.
and the huge animals began to move forward ; but
at such a snail's pace, that it took us fully an hour
to reach the gates of the town, a distance which any
ordinarily good pedestrian might easily accompHsh
in ten minutes. This rate of progress was anything
but desirable ; but as all the talking and praying
in the world could not increase it, we resigned our-
selves to our fate. Long after evening had given
place to night, "we reached the station on the road
where we had appointed to meet the avant-coumer
whom we had despatched, before leaving Tjandjor,
to obtain a relay of buffaloes.
The man, whose animals had dragged us so far,
was on the point of unyoking them, in order to re-
turn to his home, when I interposed, and induced
him, by a promise of extra pay, to leave them
attached to the carriage, for I felt convinced that
without their assistance the single pair of fresh
ones would take an endless time to accomplish the
thirteen or fourteen miles of journey that still re-
SLOW AND TIRESOME JOURNEY. 265
raaincd before us. Some two miles farther on when
our boy shipper went to a neifrhbouring village, in
search of a fresh relay, our first pair being quite
unable to continue their exertions we were again
detained a considerable time. We succeeded, how-
ever, in iiettino; four oxen, which, with the last two,
made six. "Now," thought I, "we shall go a little
faster." But, alas! there seemed no perceptible
difference. After a while we had eight, and then
ten attached, but still our progress up the hilly road
was slow and tiresome. The animals appeared to
toil on with a slow and wearied pace, until, at last,
after a j<jurney which seemed interminaljle, they
st(jj)i)ed before the door of the Sanatorium at Sin-
daiigh.iya between four and five in tlie morning.
Here we were directed by the servants, whom we
aroused from slumber, to a house l)eyond, Ijelong-
ing hkewise to Dr. IMoiMii, the one we pulled up at
being full of invalids. This was an awkanl ])redi-
cament, f(jr making sure our journey was at an
266 LIFE IN JAVA.
end, I had paid the men, who had vanished with
their buffaloes. There was no alternative but to
walk it. The morning was clear, and the sky glow-
ing with stars, but the air was very keen and
piercing ; so deciding not to disturb my wife, who
was fast asleep in the carriage, I obtained the help
of three of the doctor's servants, who, Avith Drah-
man and myself, succeeded, after some difficulty,
in dragging the heavy vehicle to the other house, a
distance of about a quarter of a mile.
The sight of a European grate, on which we
made the men pile logs of wood, was, indeed,
cheering. We rubbed our hands with delight as
Ave felt the warmth of the fire ; and felt glad that
one of our longest and slowest journeys was over.
Sindanglaya is situated on the plateau of a hill,
in the vicinity of the Pangarango, and surrounded
by hills and mountains. Three or four years ago
it Avas a dense jungle, but has been gradually, and
rather indiscriminately, cleared of its loftiest trees,
SANATORIUM AT SIXDANGLAYA. 267
and converted into a Sanatorium for civil and mili-
tary patients. Two bungalows are set apart for
the former, and three or four attap sheds for the
latter, who are frequently conveyed here from the
crarrison at Batavia. Prior to the erection of these
hospitals the invalid soldiers were sent to Holland.
At noon we started on ponies for the Panga-
rango, wliicli is one of the highest mountains in
Java, heing ten thousand five hundred feet above
the level of the sea. After i)assing through some
coffee ])lantations, the road dwindles to a mere foot-
path, and nothing can be seen but a dense forest of
wild trees, amongst wliicli the Chaumara, Chantigy,
and Sarundoiig are conspicuous from their height
and size.
AVhcn we were about two or tluve miles from
Sindanglaya, we stopped at a small liut, serving as
a Passangralian, in the grounds of which straw-
berries and Europeim vegetables were growing
most temptingly. We also perceived two ([uinine
268 LIFE IN JAVA.
trees, which, on inquiry, we fovincl had been placed
in their present position in order to ascertain
whether they would thrive in the cool mountain
districts of Java ; and so far, I believe, the trees
have flourished very well.
As we ascended higher, the road appeared to
have been cut deeper than usual, so as to leave in
some parts two banks covered with a variety of
moss, ferns, calladlums, and lilies. Myriads of
different coloured creepers and orchids clung to the
bark and branches of every tree, in some instances
literally covering them. The flowers of many of them,
blooming on long spiral stems, seemed to float in
the air above our heads. It was like riding through
miles of the choicest stocked garden it is possible
for human mind to conceive. In fact, it would be
difficult for any one who has not travelled in this
land of terrestrial orchids and epiphytes, to imagine
a scene at once so singular and beautiful as the
one I have attempted to describe. Similar scenes.
PUYOS. 269
indeed, are to be met with in many mountain
regions, but none, I should think, excelhng that of
the Pangarango, in the variety, beauty, and abund-
ance of its rare exotics.
By tlie time we reached the second Passangrahan
a miserable-looking hut, little better than a cow-
shed it was very cold. Ordering the coolies, there-
fore, to light a fire, we set off on foot in search of
some waterfalls, which we had been told were worth
seeing. Our Avay lay through a perfect labyrinth
of trees and shrubs, and almost at every footfall we
lieard the cluck of some startled bird, as we came
suddenly on coveys of quails, or, as the natives call
tliem, j)uyos. Tliese Ijirds are about the size of
our partridges, with Ijriglit black eyes, and a white
excrescence iimncdiately below each. Tlieir breasts
arc brown and red, and the wings grey. Several
were kindly sent to me before I left the East, but
my utmost care to keep them alive proved futile.
Our walk, as we continued, grew very stony and
270 LIFE IN JAVA.
wet, huge pieces of rock sometimes baiTing our
progress, and obliging us to retrace our steps a few
yards, and try a fresh route. Streams of water
also rushed down the mountain side, over which we
lost some time in placing old trunks of trees and
large stones, to enable us to cross them. AYhen
we reached a hollow formed between the Geger
Bentang and Pangarango mountains, we came in
sight of the scene which we were specially anxious
to see.
On one side of the precipice opposite to us, was
the Churook Chikoonoor, falling almost perpen-
dicularly from a height of four hundred feet, the
creepers clinging to the sides of the mountain seen
clearly through the water. To the left, gushing out
of a rocky projection, was the cascade of Tjapanas,
spreading out like a peacock's tail. Both water-
falls are surrounded by large trees and shrubs, and
so close to each other that anyone standing between
them would be sprinkled with spray from both sides.
SMOKY HUT. 271
Entering the hut, on our return, we could
not at first distinguish any human form througli
the dense smoke which filled it. xidvancing
farther in, however, we soon saw the crouching
figures of the poor shivering natives, who were
seated on the ground around the fire. The in-
terior had a very uncomfortable appearance. It
was lit by small windows, the little broken panes
in which admitted feeble rays of light by day, but
gusts of wind by night, sufticient to chill any one's
blood. As the room was perfectly destitute of any
article of furniture, we followed the example of
the coolies, and S(]uatted ourselves on the bare
ground, for there were no boards even to cover the
L-arth. Bef(jre long the smoke began to make our
eyes feel (juite sore, and as there was no chimney,
we ordered every window and door to be o])ened as
wide as possible to let it esca])e ; but all to no pur-
pose, the faggots would smoulder, and tlie smoke
rose in thicker chnids than could lind vent. So
272 LIFE IN JAVA.
\vitli our eyes suffused with tears, as painful as
those which " Hve in an onion," we waited the
cooking of our repast, it being too cold and rainy
to sit out of doors.
The scene would have formed the subject of a
curious sketch. Perched on three large stones,
which served as a kind of temporary grate, sang
and hissed a huge black kettle; whilst, close by,
the mandoer was employed in boiling rice, and
next to him a man was warming a cold fowl,
which he held near the fire by means of a bamboo
thrust across its Avings. The other occupants of
the hut were squatted as near the fire as the
mandoer would allow them to come; some engaged
in chewing betel, their cud of comfort, and otliers
puffing away at their rocos, and rubbing their
eyes from time to time, apparently by no means
in their element. My wife, soon after entering,
had tied a bandage over her eyes, and I partially
followed her example by holding a pocket hand-
THE LAWAXG SAKATUN. 273
kerchief up to mine as a protection, removing it
now and then in order to gaze at the group around
us.
When tea was made, our comestibles were spread
upon plantain leaves, and we set to with the
a\idity of hunters, the men apparently enjoying
their meal with equal zest in a circle of their own.
A small room like a closet formed our dormi-
tory, and here upon a few rough planks, over
which our servant threw a blanket, we slept the
sound sleep of travellers fatigued with a long da\'s
work and the want of rest the previous night.
I>y five next UKjrm'ng we rose and continued our
upward route, the summit of the Pangarango
being eiglit miles distant from the hut of Tjibur-
rum. \\ e had not proceeded far ])efore we saw
two laigv rocks standing ()jposite each other like
the piHars of a gat(.'. The mandoi^r, on passing
them, took off liis tudoiKj* most rcsj)ectfullv, an
* 'I'liiloiKj. a siicfics nf coiiic'al-sljaj)fil hut.
VOL. II. I-
274 LIFE IN JAVA.
example in wliich lie was followed by all our
other attendants as they approached the place.
On inquiry, I found that these rocks were called
Lawang Sakatnn, and had been placed here by
order of a king named Rato Pajajarran Raden
Suryakanchama, to mark the entrance to this
dense forest, once a portion of his domain. The
respect in which his memory is held is shown
by the almost universal custom among the natives
of taking off their hats as they approach the place.
Higher up we crossed over two streams running
parallel with each other, the vvater of one being
icy cold, whilst that of the other was boiling hot.
The path afterwards descended into a large hollow,
or amphitheatre, called Sabuksaha, hemmed in by
the bases of three mountains, and strewn over
with enormous blocks of stone and boulders of
granite, which have probably been carried down
by the force of the Avater, at a time when the
stream, running between the Ghedde and the
ASCENT OF THE PANGAEAXGO. 275
Gejer Bentaiig, has been considerably larger and
more violent than it was when we saw it. Except
for a path leading to the Ghedde, the ascent was
now unbroken until we reached the top. Misty and
damp as a November day, the air seemed to pene-
trate to our bones, Aviiilst our clothes soon became
as wet as though we had been exposed to a heavy
shower. Sometimes a passing cloud would com-
])letely envelope us in its cold embrace, concealing
almost everything from view; fitful gleams of sun-
shine would then dispel it^ and make the way
clear and bright before us.
On reacliiiig the summit, up to which we rode
through a large o])ening, we were surprised to find
so great an extent of fiat table-land, covered in
some parts with thick shrubs and brusliwood, and in
others abounding with wild strawberries. A hut,
simihir to that (jf Tjiburrum, is situated about the
centre.
At our approach several wild Ijoars, which had
T 2
27G LIFE IN JAVA. '
probably been feasting on the strawberries,
scampered away, and soon vanished under the
thicket. Dismounting, Ave walked a short distance
from the hut to a piece of ground slightly elevated,
from which we had a most extensive view of the
surrounding country. To the north we had the pro-
vince of Buitenzorg, with its principal town of the
same name, forming, from the number of its white
houses, a conspicuous object in the view, like some
holy city on a pleasing eminence. Not far from
it was the Residency of Batavia, beyond which was
the sea of Java. The mountainous country of the
Preanger was to the south, with the Indian Ocean
just discernible in the distance. At a first glance
the hills and mountains looked quite small, like so
many miniature or toy mountains; but, as our eyes
became more familiar with the vastness of the
scene before us, we seemed better able to under-
stand our own exalted position, and their height
and extent. On the west lay the province of
A SUBSTITUTE FOR FUSEES. 277
Bantam, and to the east a largo tract of tlie Pre-
anger, with part of the province of Krawang, &c.
A more extensive view could not well be obtained.
It was very fortunate we had such a clear day,
as many wlio have taken the trouble to ascend the
movuitain have only met with disappointment on
reaching the summit, which they have found en-
velo])ed in clouds and mist.
Before starting on our return, I felt desirous to
smoke a cigar, in order "to keep the cold out;" but
finding I liad forgotten my fusees, I asked one of
the men if he could give me a light. He im-
mediatelv ])icke(l up a dried })iece of wood, and hold-
ini>' it fixed on the ground, asked one of his com-
panions to ml) another across it. This being
(piicklv done, in less than five minutes the friction
causL'd tlic ujjright piece to burn. The man soon
])!c\v it into a ilanu', and lianiU'd it to me. 1 had
often heanl of this >iiiiple ])r()cess, Ijut never before
witnessed it.
278 LIFE IN JAVA.
Leaving this lonely-looking summit, we de-
scended rapidly till we reached the path to the
Ghedde, wdien we climbed a steep ascent over
loose stones and rocks till we reached this brother
mountain of the Pangarango; for, singular to say,
they both rise from one base, and are both the
same height. The Ghedde, however, unlike its
neighbour, is an active volcano, with a large crater,
portions of which are now extinct. We stood upon
the edge of the yawning abyss, from which the
smoke rose in dense volumes, accompanied with
loud noises, reminding one of Dante's description
of Limbo
" The dread abyss, that joins a thundrous sound
Of plaints innumerable. Dark and deep,
And thick with clouds o'erspread, mine eye in vain
Explored its bottom, nor could aught discern."
The strata opposite and above the ridge we stood
upon appeared to Ije of sand, brown rock, lime, and
grey stones, the latter running in lateral lines one
over the other, like steps of different colours.
BEAUTIFUL ORCHID. 279
Retracing our steps, we made our way down to
Sindanglaya, stopping at the miserable hut where
we had suffered so much discomfort from the wind
blowing and whistling through the night. Here
we made our midday repast and rested our horses,
after which we collected some rare and beautiful
jdants wliich had struck our eye the day previous.
One orchid in particular, with a small mauve
Hower on a Acry delicate stem, I had never seen
before ; and I have been since informed by ama-
teurs of these beautiful plants that it is a very
rare specimen.
On our return, a very heavy shower fell, drench-
ing us to the skin, and making us rejoice in
the cheerful fire which awaited our arrival at the
PassanL'rahan. .Vfter discarding our wet clothes,
we walked to the; doctor's house to dine.
We found him surrounded by his ])atients, in
whom lie scciucd much interesttMl. He was very
affaltlo. and dui'lnir mv sta\- I heard two anecdoti's
280 LIFE IN JAVA.
from liim which amused me not a httle. Thouo;h
the remedies are certainly singuhir, both may
fairly be entitled "a cure for dysentery."
A Dutch soldier, who had suffered for months
from dysentery, the cure of which, in his case, the
doctors declared to be impossible, had recourse to a
powerful remedy. Placing at the bottom of a
tumbler a handful of chili paddy, the smallest and
most pungent of all Indian chillies, he poured
over it raw gin, or kirsch, till the glass was
half full. This mixture he drank off at once, and
retired to bed, where, burying himself under several
thick blankets, he soon fell into a sound sleep.
After several hoiu's' rest he awoke, and finding
himself in a violent perspiration, prudently kept
his reciimbcnt position until he was quite cool,
when he rose and refreshed himself with a cold
bath, and, after a few days, completely recovered
his former state of good health.
The other anecdote was of a gentleman, who,
A CUKE FOR DYSENTERY. 281
for more than a year, had been ill with the same
(lisease, -which was gradually undermining his con-
stitution. Callino; one mornino; at the house of an
intimate friend, he found him, v.itli his family,
seated at breakfast, partaking, amongst other things,
of stewed haricots and salt meat. On Ijeing re-
quested to join the circle round the table, he ac-
cepted tlie invitation, and requested his friend to
help him to some of the dish before him, for which
he felt that longing peculiar to invalids. The
host, reluctant to comply with his request, salt meat
Ijeinff alwavs considered one of the worst thinjj;s
for persons in his state of health, strongly urged
him to partake of some other viand. The sick
gentleman, however, offended by the friendly re-
monstrance', actually rose to leave tlie table; seeing
which, his host badr liiiu help himself as he ])leased,
thougii hi- thought it a great risk. The Avilful
invalid accordingly set to work voraciously, takiiig
two or three })lates of the savoury dish, and declar-
282 LIFE IN JAVA.
ing he had not enjoyed such a hearty meal for
many months. Breakfast over, he Kt his cigar
and took leave of his friends, thanking them for
the delicious repast. After he was gone the
gentleman began to feel uncomfortable as to the
results of his sick friend's indulgence in his appetite;
but his surprise knew no bounds, when, in a few
days, the latter paid them a second visit, declar-
ing he had had no return of the disease since the
morning he had breakfasted so heartily with them,
that now all he required was change of air to re-
cruit his strength, and that he had come to say
good-bye before setting off for Sindanglaya.
" Had I known the efficacy of haricots and salt
meat bef oi"e," he added, with a laugh, " it would
have saved me many a doctor's bill."
The next morning we started for Buitenzorg,
on our return to Batavia. For eight miles the
road was one continued gradual ascent, up the side
of the !Megamundong mountain, which is richly
THE TOLOGO WARNO. 283
clothed Avitli trees, shrubs^ and ferns. Our car-
riage was drawn the whole way by four horses and
six buffaloes ; and even with these " ten in hand "
we proceeded but slowly. On arriving at the sum-
mit, we walked for about half a mile under a
beautifid forest of trees, to see a prettily-situated
lake, called the Tologo Warno, which is like a
square basin in the bosom of the mountain, sur-
roimded by trees and shrubs, growing from the
sloping Ijanks down to the edge of the muddy-
coloured water.
The man who looks after this place informed us
that the water was once beautifully clear, and no
less than eight hundred feet deej) ; Init during tlie
eruption of an adjacent volcano now extinct
such a quantity of stones fuid rubbish had been
tlirown into the lake, tliat its de])t]i was dinn'n-
ished to seventy-five feet, and the water became
thick and muddy.
The road ikjw began to descend raj)idly. Fur-
284 LIFE IN JAVA.
tlier on we passed several small mountains, amongst
which was another Tunkoe ben Prau, and a
Gunong Chisalak " the forbidden " so named
from a fruit known to the natives as the hua salak,
or forbidden fruit, growing wild upon it, the kernel
and juice of which are very sour, and the rind
dark brown and scaly.
After driving through a charming country' of
mountains, hills, forests, and lands smiling with
luxuriant cultivation, we came in sight of Buiten-
zorg ; and in a very short time were whirled up to
the door of the Hotel Bellevue. The Governor-
General of Java has a palace here, at one time a
place of great resort during certain seasons of
the year. It is now, however, the permanent
dwelling of that high dignitary. The house is a
commodious-looking building, standing in exten-
sive grounds, which are beautifully laid out in
artificial lakes, arljours, avenues, and gardens, in
regular Euro[)ean style.
THE BATOE TULIS. 285
There are several European mansions and bun-
galows in the town ; and the Chinese, who muster
strong at Buitenzorg, have erected some very fine
dwellings.
As the air is cool, and the temperature in general
varies Init very little, it is considered a healthy
retreat for invalids; and heing only fifty miles
from Batavia, it is the favourite resort of business
men who can steal a week or so from their con-
stant routine of work.
About two miles from the town is the Batoe
Tulis. On this stone, or rock, is an inscription in
characters somewhat rescmljling Javanese, but In-
tel I igil)le to no native. Ik'low it is a long dark
slab, on tlic surface of which are f()ot[rints like
thos*; of a child, the feet close together, and tlie
toi'S distended. No one seems to know anything
about these curious stones. Everi tradition, wluch
is ever readv to supply the blank left by history, is
silent respecting them. Notwithstanding their
286 LIFE IN JAVA.
ignorance, liowever, the Chinese, as well as the
Javanese, regard these stones with superstitious
veneration, making their offerings and " chin chin
joss " to them. Gilt papers, bits of incense, &k.,
were lying scattered about all round them.
Between two and three miles from Buitenzorg,
on the road to Batavia, is the villa o-e of Kadonj;
Badak, another resort for invalids. Being situated
in a retired nook, it is greatly appreciated by those
who prefer quiet to the bustle of such a place as
Buitenzorg.
The fifth post is Bidara Cheena, once a very
large populous Chinese village. Here we saw a
number of men and boys carrying gilt poles with
red banners flying from them, and preceded by a
band of music, of which little was heard sa^'e the
loud drums. I was told they were going to a feast
called the SedakaBumie, " charity of the earth," an
annual festival given by a landlord, on Avhicli oc-
casion a fat sapi, or ox, is killed and skinned. The
A JAVANESE ARTIST. 287
head, being severed from the body by some expert
man of the party, is placed on a salver, and after
being strewn and decorated with flowers by the
peasant girls, is carried in procession, and buried
with a great deal of ceremony. The body is then
roasted and eaten by the assembled tenants, who
afterwards dance to the merry sound of music.
lievond this post, as well as many miles before
reaching it, the country is very low, flat, and un-
interesting ; but the road being good, we got over
the ground pretty (piickly, arriving at Batavia
after a live hours' drive under a scorching sun, and
through clouds of dust.
Before leaving Batavia, we called on lladeu
Salcli, a .Ia\anese amateur artist, whose residence
is situated a short distance from the (piarter of the
Town in which we were staying. Sending in the
letter of introduction with which a friend had
kiudlv furnished me, we were shown into a large
hall, artistically fitteil up with furniture both
288 LIFE IN JAVA.
antique and modern, amoncrst which I noticed
some chairs the backs and legs of which were
formed of deer horns.
Raden Saleh soon made his appearance, and we
conversed in French, a language which he spoke
most fluently. He was also acquainted both with
German and English, but he did not appear to be
quite so much at home with the latter as with the
former. He was about the middle height, with a
cheerful, intelHffent countenance, and a broad but
slightly receding forehead.
We had a long conversation together, during
which he stated a fact which I remembered having
previously seen in the papers, that he had been
commissioned by our talented and much regretted
Prince Consort to paint two subjects relating to
Javanese life and scenery. He spoke in high
terms of the Prince, with whom he appears to have
had sevei'al interviews during the three-and-twenty
years he spent in Europe, the greater part of which
HIS STUDIO. 289
time Avas passed in Holland and Germany, where
lie was educated at the expense of the Dutch
fTovernment. The rest of the time he employed
in travellino; through France, Switzerland, the
Tvrol, Siv. His, however, Avas an exceptional
case, the reason of which I do not think it necessaiy
to mention.
At our request he took us to his studio, a short
distance from the house, which we reached by a
walk covered with trellis-work, thickly entwined
with creepers. Like the sandnm sdncfonim of all
artists, tlio room was filled with models, busts,
frameless and unfinished pictures, together with
other appurtenances coimected with the fine arts.
AmoiiLfst this confused mass two large subjects,
i-f(|uitiiii: onlv a few last touclies to finish tlicm,
chiiuKHl our especial attention. One was a land-
sc;ij)e taken in the province of Kadoe, inchidiiig
J view (if tlie Murh;il)ro and Mara))i. The grey
-moke I'isinir frt;ni the v(jlcano was elear and distinct
V([.. [I. I
290 LIFE IN JAVA.
against the sky, which was tinted with the mingling
hues of evening. The other, called the Inunda-
tion, represented a touching scene in the melancholy
catastrophe in Banjoemas which I have before
related. On a small mound or hillock, decreasing
in size at each roll of the water, we see a Wodono,
or village chief, waving his handkerchief as though
for help, his eyes evidently fixed on some object in
the distance, and his face expressive of the deepest
anxiety. Near him are boys with terror-stricken
countenances. An old Avoman clings to the neck
of her son, who having swum with his precious
burden to this place of temporary safety, now ap-
peal's almost exhausted with his efforts. A young
mother has apparently lost all sense of the sur-
rounding danger in the contemplation of her
babe, which she presses fondly to her bosom, as
though in hope that warmth might rekindle the
life she fancies is only partially extinct. A few
are seen swimming towards the mound, hoping to
THE INUXDATIOX. 291
reach that small haven before their strength fails
them. Two buffaloes, with blood-shot eyes and dis-
tended nostrils, are rapidly ap])roaching the desired
S])ot, apparently determined to gain a footing there,
on perceiving which tlie more energetic of the
gi'oup assail tlie poor brutes with stones, in order to
deter them from venturing on the limited space.
All in the background is dreary waste and ruin,
and the dark clouds, charged with rain, seein
to be the gloomy presages of inevitable death
to the melanclioly group so closely pressed
together. But all hope is not lost yet far off
in tlie hori/on is a small craft, wliicli I had
not j)rcvi()usly noticed, the prow of whicli is
c'learing its way towards the ?noun<l, to save the
Httic baiirj of sufferers who lune taken refuge
there. ^\ ith the exception of some sVi<j]\t ex-
travngDnce in tlie Circassian-shaped features of tlie
women, and the tor* classical iigures of the men
an exaggi'i-atioii jiardonabK' in a nati\e artist de-
1; -2
292 LIFE IX JAVA.
picting native subjects it is certainly a fine, ani-
mated scene, boldly conceived and executed in a
masterly style.
After inspecting the paintings, the artist took us
into his grounds, which are tastefully laid out, and
showed us a new house he was having built after a
peculiar style of his own, I asked him whether
there were any other Javanese artists who had at-
tained to proficiency in the art, and he replied,
not that he was aware of, adding humorously :
'"' Cafe et sucre, siicre et cafe, sont tout-ce quon
parte ici. C"est vraiernent un air tride jjour tin
artiste.^'
Next mornins we bade adieu to Batavia, and on
the second day touched at Mintok, where we went
on shore for an hour or two. The third day saw
us at Rhio, and on the noon of the fourth we hailed
(jnce more the deej), well-sheltered harbour of Singa-
pore ; its hills, verdant plantations, and white line
of spacious houses facing the sea, opening before
SLAM AT TIXGAL ! 293
US, as we glided smoothly between a forest of ships,
like the unexpected scenes in a diorama. At the
word " Stop 'err !" we dropped anchor opposite the
esplanade, or padang ; and not until the sound
caused by the splash of the cable had died away
in the calm water, could we fully realize the fact
that the noise and bustle we had of late so con-
stantly experienced were now over, and that our
three months' tour, like all things earthly, had come
to an end I
Headers, I have done. Let me now say to you, in
the words of tlie peoj^le amongst whom we have, as
it were, been living tlirough these two volumes, and
whose manners, customs, habits, and dispositions
I have faintly endeavoured to portray, Slainaf
7'/J/<A//.' "Farewc-li:"
I Immblv trust my efforts as guide have not
])rovcd \ain. The finest scenery has often many
drawljacks. The travellei' may be wcai-ic(l either by
294 LIFE IN JAVA.
its lengthened monotony, its sombre colouring, its
cold, uninteresting outlines, or by the heated, dried -
up plains over which he has to pass. I apprehend
the reader may sometimes have been fatigued by
my descriptions of the scenes over which I have
conducted him. My aim, however, has been to
supply a deficiency of information on a part of the
tropics often trodden, but of which we have few
trustworthy records. If I have succeeded in giving
a true description of what I saw, and if the fore-
going pages should prove both a source of amuse-
ment and instruction, I shall indeed feel well
satisfied.
To my book, ere we part, let me say, Slamat
jalan (" Happy journe}' !") May thy way be as
pleasant as ours was, during our interesting excur-
sion through the hi^ppy, smiling land of Java !
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
The rate of posting tlirough Java is as follows:
Rupees.* Cents.
For four horses for one ])OSt of ten miles 1 25
For six ,. ., ., 1 50
For six horses and two buffaloes ,, 1 75
For six liorses and four bufl'aloes ,, 2
The names of the different posts between the
principal towns and villages at which we sto])ped
for relays of horses arc, as far as memory and note-
l)ook will supply, in the following order :
I ItO.M SLKAHAYA To PA.SSKKOKWAN SKVEN I'OSTS.
Seratin. Kondan-rlcgie.
Srociii. Hanjril.
Tjandic. l)Uiid()<iij:an.
l*<>r()n;.^. I'a.^.seroewan.
* Oijc Florin or Kupee =-^ 100 Javanese Cents.
298 APPENDIX.
FROM PASSEROEWAX TO PASSERPAX.
Cobontjandie. Passerpan.
To Tosarie on horseback.
PASSEROEWAN TO PROBOLINGO.
Rajussa. Woetloesan.
Benongan.
Bagnio Biro (Bine water). Probolingo.
(iratie (Noted for dncks
and alligators).
FROM PR0150I.IXG0 TO KLAKA.
Jorong-an. Klaka. (Fine lake and
Letids. scenery.
Malassan.
Return by the same road to Passeroewan.
FROM PASSEROEAVAN TO MALANG.
Redjajan. Sawang.
Areng-areng. Singasarie. (See the
Wonosarie. Ruins).
Prolong. Malang.
Jatasarie. (Teak flower.)
APPENDIX.
299
FROM MALAXG TO BATOE.
Amman. Batoe.
Bcdju.
Batoe to Nagntang on horseback. Fine mountainous
country and charming scenery. See the Cascade of
Tretcs en loute.
FKOM SLRABAYA TO KEDERIE.
(it'dongtoerie.
Trosobo.
Krian.
Wonosaric.
Ke<longmango
Modjokerto.
Madjaagong.
Terongan.
Denanyha.
Tungoong-an.
Brandjejer.
(iroi)i)io.
BromjK).
Ke(hrie.
KKIH.UIE TO MADIOEX.
(iicnging. Sai'adan.
I'atjie. Tjaroclian.
Po.iso. .Bah)ngchoap
Bogai-. Bagie.
\\'ilaniran^. Madiocn.
MAI>I(ir;N TO NGAWIE.
Mahaspati. Pocrwodadi.
Niirawie.
300 APPENDIX.
NGAAVIE TO SOERAKARTA.
Ngalay. Mongkong.
Bogo. Suko\vinangong.
Gendingan. Jogomassan.
Poolly. Jorong.
Kanatan. Solo, or Soerakarta.
SOERAKARTA TO DJOKJOKARTA,
Karta-soera. Brambanan. (See the
Talangoo. Temples),
Karanggoony. Soo-ka-nain.
Klatten, Djokjokarta.
Tankisans:.
DJOKJOKARTA TO TUMUXGONG.
Moentilan, Probolingo.
]Man(loet. (See Magelan.
the Temple.) Setjan.
Borobodoo. (See Tumungong.
the Ruins.)
TUMUNGONG TO WOXOSOBO.
Paponan. Wonosobo.
Rotjo.
APPENDIX. 301
WOXOSOBO TO BANUJARXAGARA.
Ciimpong Tungoro. Sawangan.
Braj'ot. Bandj arnagara .
liANDJAKNAGAUA TO BAXD.TOEMAS.
Hawang. Poenvorodjo.
Pocrwandara. Peassa.
Paiitar. Tianjoemas.
BAXJOEMAS TO TJILAT.JAI" (ciIlLACil AI').
liantoc. (ioiiu'ter.
Siiiiipiing. Tjilatjap. (Return to
IMaos. Baiijoeiiias.)
\'laliar.
iiANJor.MAs TO ai),iii;ari:n(;.
Snkai-ajali. Kali ^Iiingis.
Pdcrwokcrto. Adjihareng.
Miiiigal.
AD.rir.AUKNi; to rvciAi..
I'l-ukaiisiii jarig. l-al)iiks{'i'.
l\:aiig-( iaiti'j-. Lawic.
Mijgasaric. Handjaraii.
lliiiicliaiiiigo. Tagul.
Ualujjidaiig
302
APPENDIX.
TAGAL TO CIIERIBOX.
Lumbungan.
Klampok.
Kloewoet.
Tandjoeng.
Losarie,
Gebang.
Pangarengaii.
Moendoe.
Clicribon.
CIIERIBON TO SAMADUNG.
Wadas.
Chaplong.
Cumpol
Banaspanteii
Banjeran.
Chunda.
Tjikoeroe.
Tjiberan.
Baturoejoek.
Samadung.
Karangsambong.
SAMADUNG TO SIXDAXGLAVA.
Chiarung. Tjinoenoek.
Tanjong Sarie. Sindanglaya.
^ Sindanglaya one post to Bandong.
BANDONG TO TJANDJUll.
Tjimalie.
Tjipadalarang.
Tjisitoe.
Tjiyattat.
Rajabniundala.
Tjissokkan.
Soekamantrie.
Tjandjor.
APPENDIX.
TJAXDJOR TO SIXAXGLAYA.
Ride to the Pangarango and Ghedde.
SIXAXGLAYA TO BUYTEXZORG.
Megamendoiig. Guddok,
'i'ugoo. Wangon.
Passangrahaii. Buvtenzorir.
I5UYTEXZ0KG SO BATAVIA.
Cliiloor. Taiijong.
Tjibinong. Bidarachina.
Tjinianie.s. Batavia.
THK p:nj).
aviw.v : PIU.NTKi; BY MACD.JNALD AND TUUWKI.L, BIJiNUEIM IK)U8K.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
Los Angeles
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