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Full text of "Malayan memories"

CORNELL 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 




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Cornell University Library 
DS S9S.W78 

Malayan memories. 



3 1924 021 572 106 



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GAYLORD 






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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 



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MALAYAN 
MEMORIES 




BY 



R. O. WINSTEDT 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 
BY DOROTHEA A. H. ALDWORTH 



SINGAPORE 
KELLY AND WALSH, LIMITED 

(INCORPORATED IN HONGKONG) 

PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS 

— AND AT 

SHANGHAI-HONGKONG-YOKOHAMA 

1916 



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Wl8'-h 






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CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

A Raja of Dreams ... ... ... ... i 

Timah's Passion ... ... ... ... lo 

Puteh's Passing ... ... ... ... i8 

A Rubber King ... ... ... ... 26 

His Last Device ... ... ... 35 

A Soother of Cares ... ... ... 40 

A Raja Lady ... ... ... ... 45 

A Dealer in Daggers ... ... ... 30 

The Leper's Parting ... ... ... 58 

The King's Highway ... ... ... 65 

A Malay Seance ... ... ... ... 70 

Hamlet ... ... ... ... ... 77 



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"IWASNOWESCAfroOOTOFTHE 
SHADOW OFTHC ROHAN EflPIRE 
UNDER WHOSE TOPPLING nONUnENTS 
VE ARE AIL Cf(ADLED,WH05E LAWS 
AND LETTERSAREON EVERY HilNl) 

of(]s,constraiwingandpitp 
^venting.iwasnowtosee 
vhat men might be whose 
fathers had never studied 
vii?gil,had never been con- 
>pred by c/esar and never 
seen ruled bythewisdon of 
gaiusorpapinian: 




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A RAJA 
OFDREflNS 



HERE is a deal of import in a man's 
name to a Malay, so much indeed that 
he will often let his own fall into 
desuetude and call himself father of 
so-and so, his child ; moreover, he will 
seldom risk ill luck by divulging it to 
a stranger, preferring to hear awkward inquiry made from 
a third party. But setting aside its animistic and dealing only 
with its material significance, a Malay name will tell a man's 
place among his brothers and sisters; whether his father is 
peasant or policeman, native of the Peninsula or foreigner 
from Sumatra or of the mixed blood of the market-place; 
whether his parents are simple country-folk or sophisticated 
and religious; plain commoners or of exalted station. A 
peasant will call his son Hitam " the Dark One," or Puteh " the 
Fair," or simply Long "the First Born," or Busu "the 
Youngest " ; or, if he has the despised Batak blood in his veins, 
his daughter will inherit some telltale pretty Indonesian name 
like Bunga " the Flower." The Malay of the market-place is 
addicted to Muhammadan names that have come by way of 
southern India. The pious will name their sons Abdullah 
"Slave of Allah," or Rashid "the orthodox," and their 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

daughters Khatijah or Fatimah after womenfolk of the prophet. 
A raja will have an old, conventional Malay name for daily 
use and a grandiloquent cognomen culled from Arabic or 
Persian romance for public occasion. Raja Ngah, having in 
the face of a competitive democratic generation to uphold the 
dignity of a line traced back to Adam and having nothing 
wherewith to support his pretensions except a small incult 
kampong, four acres of rice-field and a block of mining land 
long since worked out, very fittingly bore the impressively aristo- 
cratic appellation of Kamar u'l Zaman, " Moon of the Age." 

When I knew him, he had suffered extensive eclipse. His 
fathers had enjoyed a monopoly of the sale of palm-leaf 
thatching, tribute on all tin exported down the river that edged 
their demesne, the right of free labour from their ryots, the 
power to command contribution of rice flesh and fowl at times 
of festival. Of all these privileges the white man had 
deprived him, giving in exchange a paltry pension barely 
enough to support the few old "slaves," who, sharing their 
lord's inadaptability to change elected still to encumber him 
with their trivial service. He had held salaried office as a 
headman, but while yet a crescent boy had lost it for harsh- 
ness to Sakai, jungle-folk his ancestors had harried unhindered 
from time immemorial. His sphere of power was restricted 
now to a tumble-down parched wooden hut, a garden which 
boasted little but a patch of maize, a row of betel and coconut 
palms and seven durian trees, and beyond that to a circle of 
ancestral dependents, whose respect, unlike that of a former 
day, was at liberty to vary with their tempers and their fortune. 
Still, he enjoyed privilege. His neighbours might struggle and 
barter and grow rich ; but he could squat all his life under the 
feathery bamboos and watch the river tumbling down from 
blue forest-clad hills; assured of clothing and food, and 
possessed of social standing to which the commoner however 

[ 2 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

wealthy could never aspire. A freedom of gait and readiness 
of address marked him as one born to power and authority. 
They were his sole distinctions, for in intellect he was not 
above the ordinary ; and glib, unkind upstarts dubbed him (out 
of hearing) an old fool. He moved in a different world to theirs, 
a world of ghosts and bye-gone honours, a world of absorbing 
ceremony and minute observances. " Moon of the Age " 
struck the right note. He was a dreamer, a grown-up child 
playing with romantic toys and mistaking his pastime for the 
game of life. 

Only twice did I know him display a lively interest in 
what passes with most of us for real business. The first time 
was when the younger of his two sons was, like the elder, 
appointed pSnghulu. He had been proud of the elder holding 
office, but that both of them should be headmen and he with 
nothing but the memory of his dismissal ! A special visit was 
paid, a special letter presented with line upon line of compli- 
ment and the gist in the last sentence. Was he too old to 
hope for office again? The second concern he would have 
scorned, had he not been desperately pressed for money to 
lavish on a grandchild's christening, one of those episodes 
which were the stuff of his life. He was the last man to 
publish the weaknesses of any of his own family or " put his 
salt out in the rain," as he would have phrased it. However, 
under the stimulus of urgent need, he had no choice but to 
invest my office, a tragic figure gnawed with want and shame 
and anger, if haply he might waylay his eldest son for the 
recovery of an old debt; and his son being as far above 
mundane matters as himself, he got it only by presenting his 
solemn curse writ fair for recital in the mosque ! As a rule, 
he came upon suaver errands. 

I can see him still, stalking beside the walls of my office, im- 
pressive and stiff as a hidalgo of Spain ; a waist-cloth wrapped 

[ 3 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

ostentatiously in loose folds about his loins, faded the colour 
of sand but of thin silk and to the initiated a sufficient visible 
sign and prerogative of rank. Often he carried a Chinese 
paper umbrella, but his personaHty or perhaps the sombre 
poorness of his habiliments domineered over bathos, and the 
thing might have been the gold-mounted dagger he had worn 
in his youth, so far was it from striking one as incongruous. 
At first his dilatory edging away to the walls behind pillars 
and desks struck me as a sorry waste of time, and distracted 
or even irritated me at my work. It brought home to me my 
insignificance ; I was a slave of the desk and of the hours, and 
he a gentleman of leisure, free from the tyranny of the clock, 
at beck neither of man nor occupation. It irritated me more 
when I learnt the esoteric import of his demeanour, and often 
I had reason to regret that a sense of humour invariably pre- 
vented me from displaying my soreness if only as a weapon of 
self-protection; but for the life of me, I had to smile. He 
let drop the explanation casually. 

" I am going to present myself before His Highness the 
Sultan," he remarked ; " I have a weighty request to make, 
and it will take several days to do it with propriety and 
delicacy. I shall wander first in the court-yard with a pre- 
occupied air till I am observed : then I shall pace alone and 
melancholy in the outer hall replying to all inquiries, 'No 
matter! No matter!': finally, after a day or so, when I go 
into the presence, I shall hesitate before I proceed to do 
obeisance, and relate my errand only after considerable cir- 
cumlocution. All that will make it abundantly clear to His 
Highness that the occasion is not ordinary. Praise be to Allah, 
my parents taught me manners." 

After that, I got to calculate fairly accurately the amount 
he wanted to borrow from the precision and ceremony of his 
entrance. 

[ 4 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

When he had skirted along as far as to the side of my 
desk, his sparse gray beard would begin to wag under a 
plethora of betel and of sentences that might have done credit 
to Polonius ; ponderous stilted nothings, allusions to Iskatidar 
Dz'ul Karnain, Alexander the Great, the reputed progenitor of 
most princely Malay lines, and to the fallen fortunes of his 
house. 

"Ours is the fate of the nyiur gading," he would say; 
"the golden coconut that may be planted only in princes' 
gardens; its fruits ripen, and heaven knows the fate of the 
dry shells, destined to become some drinking vessels, some 
cups for rain-water, and some to fall downwards so that 
neither rain can assuage their thirst nor earth their empti- 
ness." 

And then he would produce some mildewed, worm-eaten 
parchment, a kttasa given to him by a hand whose power of 
delegating had long surceased, and urge that it gave him a 
claim on the Government for ten acres of mining land free of 
dues. 

Or another time it was a crystal he brought and waved 
in the sunlight before the eyes of myself and my astonished 
clerks. Five hundred dollars was the price he dreamed of, 
and I remember how I thought that his natural simplicity had 
turned into madness. But his plan of operations was sane 
enough. 

" This," he observed, waving it at arm's length, " this is 
a priceless talisman got from the head of a sacred elephant in 
the days of Marhum Kota ; not in ten generations shall such a 
talisman be found again; therefore I beg of the tuan a free 
ticket for myself and this exhibit to the agricultural show; 
haply at Singapore I shall meet some rich prince of Siam, 
who reveres the elephjuit and will give a fitting price for such 
a treasure." 

[ 5 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Ticket obtained, he leant across the desk, clutched my 
arm and took his leave with fulsomeness of emotion that might 
have been copied from the stock manners of Malay romance. 

It were difficult for the man who recognises nothing but 
material success to adjust his mind to the plane of thought of 
this threadbare unprepossessing courtier, this simple gentle- 
man. A dais of gilt and scarlet paper with bouquets of cut 
paper flowers stood to his infantile pride for the pomp of 
palaces ; a paltry lych-gate of round timber posts and a zinc 
roof for all the glories of the Alhambra. His days, I am 
positive, were spent in Elysium : he spurned poverty and trod 
on air; his umbrella was a Malay Excalibur; his faded waist- 
cloth a mystic fabric; his one tatterdemalion follower a 
prince's retinue; the splendour and dignity of his presence 
patent to all observers. Perhaps it was natural. His pedi- 
gree covered a dozen full sheets of foolscap and went back to 
Adam by way of Muhammad and Alexander the Great. But 
considering his attitude to the world, I could believe almost 
in the efficacy of that famous charm for pre-eminence. Si 
Awang Lebeh, his precious possession which one day he 
allowed me to copy : — 

" Sheltered I 'neath Allah's foot-stool, 

Allah's Prophet my protector ; 

On my right the angel Gabriel, 

On my left the angel Michael, 

All the angels ranged behind me. 

Me vice-regent of the Highest. 

By the providence of Allah, 

By th' evidence of the Faith, 

By the words of the Koran, 

Hearts of all adversaries 

Be locked at the sight of me ; 

Hearts of believers 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Be opened unto me. 

God's blessing upon me, 

I stand by his Prophet. 

Can God be imperilled, 

Then fall I in peril. 

His Prophet imperilled, 

Then fall I in peril. 

A serpent my loin-cloth. 

My throne a wild elephant^ 

Swift lightnings before me, 

Fierce tigers to shadow me. 

Yea, by this charm of mine 

Allah exalteth me ; 

In seated assembly 

Pre-eminent I : 

Erect or in walking or talking 

Pre-eminent I : 

I, a master of mortals, 

Precious stone of the Prophet, 

Pearl of the Highest. 

Yea, none can withstand me, 

My charm and confession of faith." 
Once his faculty for romance was brought to bear on a 
predicament of real life with pathetic felicity. His youngest 
daughter was about to be married, and I felt abashed almost 
at the terms in which he invited a mere commoner like myself 
to such an august festivity. 

"The tuan will come to the wedding of his younger 
sister?" he inquired, "The tuan knows the poverty of my 
house, but by Allah's blessing there will be a buffalo slaughter- 
ed for the feast." 

It was the problem of how to get that buffalo which 
brought him ignominiously out of the clouds down to earth. 

-[ '7 ■] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Did I think he could borrow a hundred dollars from. Govern- 
ment on the security of his wife's pension ? It was mean- 
spirited and plebeian perhaps, but I cast about to save him 
from himself. As a pupil of his in the art of Malay diplomacy, 
the art of wrapping up denial in compliment and sugaring 
present disappointment with unbounded future promise, I had 
to devise excuse suitable to the dignity of the occasion, and I 
hope I proved myself worthy of his unconscious tutelage. I 
hinted mysteriously that, as his wife drew her pension from 
another State, such a request might result in inter-state 
complications. The suggestion appealed to his vanity. He 
departed anxious but flattered. 

At last the day for the wedding, it appeared, was fixed. 
The buffalo had been bought and a henchman sent over the 
hills to fetch it. I, who was fairly intimate with his resources, 
marvelled. A week hence and the sitting-in-state was to take 
place. I promised to attend. Alas! it was only two days 
before the festivities that he came again, stalking more digni- 
fied than ever, resignation in his mien, and on his lips courtly 
excuses. Was there ever such a fate as his? Had I not 
heard of the disaster that had overtaken him ? It was strange 
that the tuan mata-mata had not spoken of it. He had 
reported to the police sergeant. His man had been driving 
that buffalo over the pass, when the beast had turned upon 
him and broken away into the forest. Chase had been vain. 
He had asked the sergeant to shoot it as a dangerous animal 
in the event of oapture. Of course it was too late to procure 
another for the wedding. And the tmn knew how long that 
ceremony had been postponed already. Further delay was 
impossible. He regretted deeply the accident and hoped that 
I would yet condescend to come to a feast at which kid must 
take the place of buffalo. 

[ 8 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

As I say, I had studied under him the art of diplomacy, 
and I hope it will not be accounted to me for sin that I 
listened gravely and made appropriate inquiry, asked if the 
man was much hurt, on what range the buffalo had broken 
loose, and if the sergeant entertained hopes of shooting it. I 
think he knew I knew that buffalo was mythical as the buffalo 
on whose horns the Malay world rests; but it, too, had a 
weight to bear that justified its existence in idea, for it was 
the sole stay of its creator's pride of rank and hospitality. 




[ 9 ] 



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TIMAH'S 

PASSION 



''MVVAMMAD LOVCD BUTGooAtMICHTY,^ jl 
My M I STRESS. MARK YO U.WAS NOT BOR^T 
AMAUAYVCRSC. ' 

was a little earth-oiled plank hut, 
thatched (its owner evidently a Suma- 
tran) with dry dun lalang grass instead 
of the broad leaves of nipah palm affect- 
ed by Malays of the peninsula. N othing 
divided it from the road except two yards of sandy soil, 
where fowl scratched in channels dug by drip of tropical rain 
from the pent roof, and pecked the seeds that fell from chillies 
and yellow marigolds planted in a gaptoothed row of kerosine 
tins. Close beside the house were stable and shed for pony 
and gharri. At the back a shady close-planted garden of 
durians mangosteens and betel palms stretched down to a 
rapid river, edged for miles with tall dark foliage of jungle 
and kampong and throughout the wet season turbid and 
melancholy with scour and spilth of earth. 

I had remarked the hut first for its lalang thatch. Once, 
I had hired the owner's gharri and been invited up his house- 
ladder out of a torrent of rain into a room vacant and dull as 
himself, empty of furniture except for greasy, coverless pillows, 
a grimy mosquito-curtain and a few kitchen utensils. 
Sumatrans are often a dour folk, occupied in earning hard-won 

[ 'lO ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

dollars and in religion, disinclined for the junketings dear to 
the lighter hearts of other Malays. This man Baginda seemed 
typical of his people. He was, I imagined, a bachelor. His 
compound was always deserted. I came to notice, because I 
was visiting a house directly opposite, the abode of 'Mak Busu, 
who was chanting for me the indefinitely protracted Malay 
version of Jack and the Bean-stalk, which, as the Beanstalk 
in the story was a gigantic coconut palm, I preferred to hear 
under the thick overhanging fronds in her orchard rather than 
in my smug bungalow. The tale, as I say, was protracted. 
And the old lady would stop often to cough, chew betel, and 
rest herself with gossip. One evening, I asked about her 
neighbour. 

"Who is that I see alone at the window every day? A 
young girl. Perhaps his daughter? His house is mostly 
closed and empty." 

'Mak Busu laughed. 

"He has married a wife; a girl very fair to look upon. 
But it is a bad custom of ours, that fifty may mate with fifteen. 
If there is too much lemon-grass in the curry, it is sure to be 
nasty; age and youth can never agree. Surely, the white man 
has no such stupid custom ?" 

" In every country," I quoted the Malay proverb in reply, 
" prudence is overruled by desire — desire, a raja in the eyes, a 
sultan in the heart." 

" She sits from dawn when the first flies stir till dusk when 
her husband returns with his pony ; there behind the barred 
windows," continued 'Mak Busu. " She has nothing to occupy 
or amuse her except the boiling of rice for their two meals a 
day and the plaiting of mats for sale ; Baginda is always away 
with his gharri. She has eye-brows like a cock's spurs, ears 
flushed with the pink of half-faded lotus petals, and the toes of 
her feet are yellow gold. She is the very counterpart of the 

[ " ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

princess for whom the hero climbed the tree in our tale. 
Passers stare at her like tigers, but as yet she is asleep and 
cannot see. By and bye, she will wake and then there will be 
trouble. It is not fitting to leave a young girl alone like a 
night-jar in a deserted house." 

" But, the neighbours," I said ; " there is no loneliness, no 
privacy even in a Malay kampong." 

" Timah is a stranger. They hate her for her good looks 
and her marriage with a well-to-do syce. Also, it is galling 
that she a child should have gold bracelets, when those of elder 
women are silver-gilt." 

This tattle of rustic jealousies jarred me, and I looked out 
into the night. The moon shed splendour on a world that 
seemed to await and invite romance; the romance that has 
lived, since the first moon rose, in green and silver shadows, in 
warm enfolding night and in the burning heart of youth. 
Across the white ribbon of road, I could see the girl of whom 
we had been talking hold a guttering lamp that lighted hay 
and ordure, while her husband harnessed the pony for a 
journey. In a few minutes, the gharri rattled away into the 
distance. The girl sat silhouetted against the light on the top 
rung of the house-ladder. 

'Mak Busu started her chant again and I turned and 
squatted down to listen. She stopped after a while. A far 
louder chant sounded from the road, the chant of a Malay 
youngster bellowing a love song in tones that swell novf fierce 
and insistent and anon 

" Stagger in a warbling doubt. 
Of dallying sweetness ; " 
to foreign ears an almost animal roar, to Malay youth full of 
the ache of infinite desire. 

" Where shall the ant die, if not in sugar ?" mumbled the 
old woman. " Youth will risk more than life for a winsome 

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' Silhouetted against the light on the top rung oj the house ladder. 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

face. The old eat their rice and are satisfied, but for youth 
how often rice tastes like thorns, when the liver is hot and the 
heart consumed with the fire of longing ? Did I not say there 
would be doings soon ? A boy bellows his love-song like an 
owl hooting at the moon ; and who of us staid elders wakes to 
catch the words and their drift ? But the girl for whom he 
sings knows — ay, though they have never exchanged speech or 
eye-play even as Timah knows to-night. 

All night from the roof of the chieftain 
The owlets cry tuwhit tuwhoo — 
— that was what he sang. The tuan knows the answer. No ? 
To a Malay girl it seldom needs recital — 
Or ever God created Adam 
We were plighted, I and you. 

Pain ensues later, but ah! the rapture of it all. The 
white man does not marry till he is old, and his wife even is 
over twenty, of middle-age. How can he know the madness 
of young hearts ? Also, he is tied to one wife ; and to love a 
wife, one must leave her sometimes." 

" So, too, to love a husband ?" — I laughed. 

"The tuan must joke. Well, old folk like the tuan and 
me have nothing better to amuse us, have we ?" 

I was not flattered at her estimate of my age. 

" Selamat tinggal " said I, climbing down to the ground. 
" It is too late to finish our tale ; I'll come another time." 

I walked to the white road. The bellow of song sounded 
again, and a youth passed persisting, heedless of my presence, 
in his chant. How should a fool of a white man under- 
stand ? 

" Where does the argus pheasant nest ? 

Above the fall, in crannied cleft ? 
Where does the lover long to rest ? " 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES 



This was cat-like luring of the bird off the bough. But it 
was no business of mine and old 'Mak Busu's suspicions might 
be idle. 

A week later, I saw the girl watering the marigolds out of 
a coconut shell. 'Mak Busu had not exaggerated her beauty. 
She had a complexion the colour of old honey, slow brown 
eyes, dimpled cheeks, white even teeth and lips that might 
have been reddened by bruised grapes or burning kisses. Her 
husband was rubbing down the pony under a tree. As it 
chanced, just at that moment, a youth passed on a cycle. He 
looked at the inattentive husband, glanced at the girl quickly 
and drew his hand across his eyes, eyes that (as was thus 
signified) were aching for the sake of the beloved, dazzled by 
the sun of her loveliness and full of the tears of fruitless yearn- 
ing. They were soft big eyes, set in a handsome face. From 
the carriage of head and shoulders and set of the cap rakishly 
atilt, I was sure it was the singer of that night. The girl 
clambered into the house, fluttered, it would seem, by sudden 
access of emotion or fear. 

It was a fortnight after that, before I could find leisure 
for old 'Mak Busu and the tale of Jack and the Beanstalk. 

" 'Tis a long while, since the tuan has come here," she 
said. " And much has happened yonder across the road. It 
befell even as I foretold, for Timah, Only the heart of youth 
is very hot and its devices quick so that things came to pass 
with exceeding suddenness. Why, the very morning after the 
tuan had left, I saw a betel-quid flung from her window at his 
feet. Whose feet ? Oh, it is Che Wan, a son of the pXnghulu. 
They carried themselves with great daring, those two. It was 
not so we conducted love affairs in the days before the white 
man, when a keris would let out hot blood like water. One 
morning, as I was picking sticks in my garden, I saw Baginda 
catch his rival under the durian trees, but the youth proffered 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

small coin and declared he had come to buy the fruit. Then I 
observed Timah wearing a new necklace. How did she 
account for it ? Said it was borrowed from a friend, perhaps. 
But when things have come to such a pass, discovery is only 
a matter of days. "Who can hide the sun with a sieve ? It is 
strange, tuan, how love will turn the timid heart of a girl to 
boldness. But so it is. A Malay girl with one passion devour- 
ing her like flame sooner or later scorns concealment. To 
hold vagrant man's heart fluttering in a tiny palm ; is it not 
matter for pride rather than shame? I was not surprised 
when I remarked Timah wearing her lover's sarong, that 
sarong of red and white chess-board pattern. The tuan has 
not noticed? It is silk and known from one end of the 
kampong to the other. I was not surprised, but I was 
frightened and bade my son stay at home in case of trouble. 
We saw Baginda return with his gharri. He unharnessed the 
pony and sat in the stable, sullen, smouldering like burnt 
chaff. We were eating our meal. Then a girl screamed once, 
and there was silence. My son seized a parang. We ran to 
Baginda's house. He was holding a knife against Timah's 
bosom ; her eyes were wide with terror, but she did not waver. 
As we came up, the man released her with disgust, and she 
started to clamour volubly. She was mad, mad with fear and 
love. Who was Baginda, that he should make her his slave 
at bed and board ; keeping her there friendless in the jungle ? 
He, a Rawa man, of no birth, a syce, a cleaner-up of dung. 
She rolled on the floor of the stable, her bangled wrists crash- 
ing on the boards and the whites of her eyes big and frenzied. 
Baginda walked away. I was afraid. But my son was here, 
a quick man of his hands. I took her to my house. The 
next morning, we heard, Baginda had divorced her." 

" It is easy for Malay lovers," I interrupted, " easy to get 
divorce, easy to marry again. Where is she now ? " 

[ 15 ] 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

" She is dead," said the old woman ; " died four days ago 
here in this house." 

Life with the rush and passion of a tropical storm, fierce, 
ecstatic, a lovers' life, pent in the abundant present ; forgetful 
of the morrow, of self, of honour, of fear, of regret ; unashamed 
as nature ; compact of fire and sunlight and kisses — and then 
the eclipse of death, death the divider. 

"A man may not keris an erring wife nowadays," 
continued the old woman. " There is the white man's law, 
with the dangling gallows. Yet there are other ways of 
which the white man recks nothing ; mayhap they'd have no 
effect on white folk, hard-faced, hard-hearted. But our people 
are quick to love, quick to fear. Che Wan was gone for a 
week on business (that was why she had made him give her a 
keepsake) or he might have drowned her fears in that sea of 
love which quenches terror. Baginda went away, but he had 
been careful to spread abroad the object of his errand. 
Timah had left the sarong, that sarong which had brought 
about the trouble, hanging on the line. Baginda had taken it 
and gone in quest of a Brunai pawang, who fears not Allah 
and is in league with the devil. Most kampongs have a pawang 
but not such as are expert in the black art. I have met this 
Brunai man, a smoker of opium, his face black with the fires 
of the pit, before his time; a rogue to practise spells and 
fumigation over that sarong, which, by the blessing of Allah, 
should rack its whilom wearer, heart liver and spleen. Timah 
fell sick of a fever. She was weak, spiritless and afraid. Her 
limbs, she complained, ached as on a rack; her head was 
giddy as with the fumes of enchantment ; the shadows of the 
room seemed to her full of devils, of nameless dangers. We 
burnt yellow turmeric that frightens spirits. But she died in 
two days. The Tamil dresser said it was fever. Bah ! fever, 
perhaps, but what medicine can cure the effects of black 

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magic ? A very potent pawang, that Brunai man, wicked and 
doomed to feed the fires of hell hereafter, but in this life 
helped by the devil. 

And now, where did we leave off our tale? The tuan 
does not want me to chant it to-night? No? The tuan is 
upset. And he had not even spoken to the girl? Perhaps, 
being old and a mid-wife, I am hardened. Love and birth 
and death, they are common enough bed-fellows, often under 
one roof together. She left me her gold bracelets, but I 
daresay Baginda will claim them — a miserly file and, as I 
always said, no mate for a young girl," 




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UTEH'S PASSING 



HE Wan got up from his desk in the 
District Office and walked home to his 
tiny Government quarters; arrived at 
the top step, he stooped and kicked 
off a pair of shining pumps, passed 
through the verandah, and removing a nickel Roskopf watch 
and its chain of pure soft Chinese gold from the pocket, hung 
up his starched white uniform coat with its gilded buttons — he 
could never understand why the tuan majistret preferred to wear 
them as plain brass. Then he sat down in zephyr and Malay 
cotton shirt and proceeded to roll a rokok of Javanese tobacco 
and palm leaf. He reflected half unconsciously (such a part 
of his mental existence had it become) how superior he was to 
the people of that jungle district, he a Malay from the Straits 
Settlements; for himself, he could speak English and his 
women folk had never in their hves stood in the baking sun 
knee-deep in the slush of ricefields, but on the other hand 
were such (Jooks as Perak people had hardly dreamed of and 
able to crotchet white antimacassars. He looked around his 
best room; the hampong Malay had no place like it; only 
those who were accustomed to the ways of the white man 
had adopted bentwood Austrian chairs, oil-cloth-covered 

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table, oleographs of Queen Victoria and the Sultan of Turkey, 
and clean white-washed walls. Ugh ! what houses his neigh- 
bours had; flooring of creaking split bamboo; plaited mats 
instead of chairs and tables ; rough walls of interwoven palm, 
brown, unpainted; roofs which looked like a cobweb of 
rafters nets nooses old mats and miscellaneous rubbish. 
Alas! despite its European character, there were many evil 
spirits about his bungalow ; it was strange ; they haunted the 
quarters even of the Tuans, whose very Mems with their 
hard, strong faces feared not ghostly enemies; probably it 
was because in his confidence the white man paid no heed 
to matters on which the native Pawang could so easily advise 
him, the month for commencing to build, the colour of the 
soil, the aspect, propitiatory ceremonies to Earth on violating 
her virgin spaces with rude house-pillars. Anyhow, there 
were evil spirits all about these quarters, palpable almost 
in the cold, noxious air; and he and his family were per- 
petually falling victims to fever, perhaps because they had 
been brought up too delicately for the jungle. The tuan doktor 
ascribed the trouble to mosquitoes and advised the cleaning of 
drains and burning of empty coconut shells; but the tuan 
doktor also got fever; certainly he was joking or perhaps he 
had been drunk ; he must be drunk often to have the heart to 
cut up corpses and perform other works, ghastly and revolting 
to the true believer. 

A woman, with a dark olive face, handsome but lined 
before its time, as time is counted in the cold north, came 
into the room; she wore nothing but a sarong or unpleated 
sack-like skirt, tucked above her bosom and falling to the 
ankles in a way that revealed the outline of her figure clearly 
but quite decently. 

" What news, Ngah ? " asked Che Wan. 

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"The news is good, Che," answered his wife, conven- 
tionally but gloomily; adding "Si Puteh is worse to-day, her 
head aches and her skin is very hot. And Fatimah is sicken- 
ing." 

Che Wan rose and followed her into the inner room. A 
group of matrons, shabby ugly kind cotton bundles squatted 
on the floor; Ma Bidan, the wise woman president at every 
birth and death in the place; old Raja Hitam, talkative, 
officious ; Che Munah, the headman's wife, with Zin, her tiny 
boy; Chik, help-mate to a small contractor, who depended on 
the clerk for surreptitious help in getting free timber passes ; 
Ma Bidan's follower, Si Long ; Halimah, once a wanton, now 
married to Che Wan's son. They greeted him condescend- 
ingly, a mere male trespassing where he was just as useful as 
"an axe on an embroidery frame"; and hushed their chatter 
to watch quizzingly what he would do. He returned their 
greeting, stooped low before Raja Hitam and then looked 
where his daughter lay, but did not outrage the matrons' ideas 
of decency by offering to touch her fevered hands or forehead. 

" How do you feel now, Puteh ? " he asked. 

The girl moaned. Her sister sat silent beside her, with 
large eyes in which the fever had begun to shine. 

" What medicine are you administering ? " he asked his 
wife. 

" Herb potions," she answered ; " we tried a decoction of 
leaves of bunga China ; we are trying now akar pinang, root of 
the betel palm, but nothing will make her sweat." 

Ma Bidan smeared a yellow cosmetic on the sufferer's 
face and bosom. "There've been weird yellow sunsets of 
late," she observed, " and every one knows they bring disease, 
or the water spirit may have crossed her when she was 
bathing. Who can tell?" The headman's wife addressed 
the company at large. 

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" Perhaps the medicine the tuan doktor gave us might do 
good ? " ventured the father. 

" Don't bother the poor girl," retorted Che Ngah. "You 
say it is so bitter you can't drink it yourself and now you want 
to plague her." 

" But it was the ' beans,' the pills, I meant." 

"I've heard tell, how the white powder, those 'beans' 
are packed in is hog's bones ground fine," remarked Ma 
Bidan's gaptoothed follower. "You trust Ma Bidan, Che 
Krani (Mr. Clerk) and by Allah's blessing all will be well. 
Siamese women are clever at mixing herbs and she is half 
Siamese." 

"Bring me charcoal, Long," Ma Bidan ordered in her 
professional voice. 

The old woman reached for an ash-stained bronze censer 
from the shelf. 

" Allah save us : my virtue gone, gone, gone ; virtue, save 
us, virtue gone," she screamed, dancing about as a black 
beetle crawled out of the censer over her fingers. 

They all laughed, despite the occasion. Halimah jerked 
her sleeve mischievously. How could one help it? The old 
hag was so very funny. She started again. "Allah, Allah, 
save us, our virtue, our virtue, our virtue " — with stress on the 
last syllable like the hoot of an owl. 

" Don't tease and make her latah ; you know her nervous 
ailment, as well as I ; " sdd Ma Bidan " let her bring the 
charcoal." 

"There, let me fetch it," muttered Che Ngah, pushing 
aside her daughter-in-law. " It's not so long since you were 
a hu2zy and you're as lazy and callous as one still." 

"I couldn't help it," whimpered Halimah. "I didn't 
mean any harm." 

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" Now, when I was a girl " — Raja Hitam launched on a 
homily and then stopped with the inconsequence of age and 
sudden memories. 

Che Ngah returned with a censer full of charcoal. Ma 
Bidan sprinkled benzoin upon it and the air grew thick and 
sickly with fumes, which the powers of evil fear. The un- 
canny atmosphere brought uneasiness to Che Wan. 

" I'll go and fetch the Brunai bomo," he whispered to his 
wife. 

It is notorious that, the further off a man hails, the more 
familiar he is with the unseen world ; that the white man, for 
instance, is descended from jin puteh, white spirits. Ma Bidan 
had been long in the country; perhaps she had lost her 
cunning. 

" Ah," observed Raja Hitam to the penghulu's wife, " it's 
always comforting when one is really ill to have a man about ; 
one never trusts a woman so much." 

" To be sure," answered Che Munah, mentally calculating 
the number of illnesses in which Raja Hitam must have been 
comforted, if scandal spoke true. "Why there's Che Ngah 
bringing coffee and sweet-meats. It is a treat to visit her; she 
makes the best cakes of any one I know ; they'll be lucky folk 
who bespeak her daughters for their sons." 

Presently Che Wan returned with the Brunai medicine- 
man. He was a youngish man, modest but with the quiet 
reliant air adopted by his profession all the world over. 

" Where is the pain ? " he enquired, hardly venturing to 
look at the patient. 

"She has complained of severe headache," said the 
mother. 

The bomo wrote hieroglyphics, some Arabic, some sheer 
nonsense, on a slip of paper, passed it over the smoke of the 
censer and drew near the bed. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

" Tie it round her forehead," he said to Ma Bidan. 

" Will she get better soon ? " Che Ngah pleaded. 

" If Allah wills," answered the bomo. 

They sat whispering and drinking coffee. 

The patient began to wander. " See them, conning up 
the hill, can't you see them," — the gilt bangles jangled on her 
thin wrists as she pointed to the foot of the mosquito curtain. 

Old Raja Hitam got up and knelt over her. " Mlnguchap, 
my child, pray," she reiterated, " pray." 

The sick sister lay back, her face to the wall, and sobbed 
softly, quite frightened. 

"Eat some of these sweet-meats, Fatimah," Ma Bidan 
tried to encourage her, "and drink a cup of coffee," handing 
a cup of black sugared coffee without milk ; " you must eat or 
you'll get worse too." 

"I've a mind to fetch the tuan doktor," said the father; 
" the white man is very clever at curing fever." 

" Don't be shameless," his wife faltered, " you know he is 
young and a bachelor and it is not fitting ; besides, think how 
angry he is with us because our goats are always eating the 
flowers in his compound ; he'd certainly poison the girl." 

"Lah! he'd frighten the child," cried Che Munah; "with 
his lanky body stooping shoulders and lopping arms, he looks 
like a marabout stork." 

" By your leave," the bomo bowed to the parents and put his 
fingers firmly but gently on the patient's forehead. He began 
to mutter an incantation, rhythmical very long monotonous 
and soothing, addressed to Batara Guru and other deitia and 
clinched with an appeal to the Prophet and Allah the One God. 

The women kept silent ; the sick girl grew less restless. 

"She's better now," whispered old Raja Hitam, her 
pagan heart more relieved by this heathen performance than 
she would have cared to confess. " She's going to sleep." 

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" By Allah's will and by virtue of the good luck a raja's 
presence brings," said Che Wan politely. 

He got up and went into the verandah where a few elders 
had gathered; among them, the imam. Outside, it was a 
warm night with burning stars and a sky like velvet. It was 
getting late and several of the women rose to depart. Che 
Ngah came out and bade her husband escort them on their 
way. He was preparing to go, but they excused him and he 
put back his coat on its peg. Then Ma Bidan's attendant 
glided on to the verandah, awesome and mysterious. 

"'To Bidan says she's very weak; she seems to be sinking 
You'd better call the imam." 

They all crowded back into the sleeping room. 

The girl lay still now, pale and cold. The imam went up 
to her side ; his haji's robe was earth-stained but its flowing 
lines lent him a priestly look among that homely crowd. 

"She's dying, I think," whispered Ma Bidan, drawing aside 
the mosquito-curtain to leave passage for the parting spirit. 

" Has she seen the lam alifV murmured the imam. 

"She's been unconscious, so far." 

The girl's lips moved but no sound came from them. 

" Try to repeat the creed after me, my child," said the 
priest," La Ilaha ila'llah Muhammad rasulu'llah." 

Zin, the tiny boy, grabbed for sweetmeats from a tray on 
the floor : he was dragged away and started to scream. Seven 
times, as religion ordains, the imam repeated the confession 
of Islam in the dying ears. 

Ma Bidan stooped over critically as he finished. 

" She's gone home to the mercy of Allah," said the imam. 

Ma Bidan wiped her eyes with the corner of her jacket. 
The others cried and sobbed. Presently they turned to com- 
fort the mother. It was fate, ordained from the beginning. 
Nothing more could have been done. 

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'"Tis Friday night, too," said Raja Hitam, "the night 
propitious for birth bridal and death ; she was always a lucky 
girl. Ya Allah, what a winsome bride she would have made." 

Che Ngah wept silently. Her brain was in a whirl. No, 
she would never have any grand-children now. Probably 
Fatimah would die too. She got up to go to her; then sank 
down again. There was nothing she could do, nothing at all : 
no help anywhere. It was nasib, fate. Grand-children . . • 
she remembered her own children climbing about her knees 
. . . the dead girl, what a dear child with such pretty ways 
. . . now she had gone, beyond reach, on an unknown path 
no path at all. 

A crash of masculine voices chanting the Koran broke 
frorh the outer room. , The women did not understand one 
syllable of the Arabic words but the chant, harsh, a key above 
any Malay air, above Malay life, was tonic to their nerves. 
Che Ngah got up and closed her daughter's eyes. Long 
attended on Fatimah. Ma Bidan rummaged in a cupboard for 
silk cloths. Che Ngah rummaged too. And there was the 
funeral feast to get ready and no Puteh to help her. She wept 
again. Raja Hitam picked up the betel-nut scissors and 
placed them on the dead girl's bosom — iron, to keep away all 
evil influences. 




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ARUBBERKINO 




j^SBBSBSSBU 



was, he conceived, the great day of his life, 
more momentous than the day of his 
marriage or the time when his first-born 
had been put into his hands; those 
days saw but natural expected events, 
this something no more within the ken of himself or his 
simple forefathers than cats with horns, as the Malay saying 
goes. Yet, for a while, Indut had forgotten almost the unique 
greatness of the occasion. Hustled by cacophonous Chinese 
coolies at the ticket office, pushed with a crowd of others like 
cattle into a third class carriage, he sat now in a train which 
seemed to him to travel with incredible speed, though it was 
not even the kreta sombong, the "proud" mail which will not 
condescend to stop at humble villages like his. He was 
mazed not only by this onset into a fleeting landscape, but by 
the cosmopolitan crowd in the carriage — cotton-clad Chinese 
tradesmen, a Jaffna Tamil swelling with rice and office, a 
Punjabi cattle-dealer in dirty pink turban and large gold 
necklace, a sleek smooth-skinned Haji of his own race, a 
Malay raja in khaki suit and neat black boots, a Chinese nonia 
faded like her cheap flowery kebaya but to him a mirror of 
fashion of beauty. The importance of these fellow passengers 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

seemed obvious and abashed him. He was a frog just popped 
from under a coconut shell and here were these people moving 
in a world of complex and hurried event, as to the turmoil 
born. 

The train jolted and stopped. Passengers thrust their 
heads out of the windows. The Malay raja spoke to the guard. 

"Tuan Barrett said we should get through to-night." 

" Oh ! mister-r Barr-r-ett, ma-an, he no care, we all 
killed," retorted the guard with importance. 

It was marvellous, this Tamil and the Malay raja talking 
the language of the white man, kis km, very sibilant and ugly 
but apparently quite intelligible. Even that Haji yonder had 
bandied words like tikkut and stashun with ease and distinction. 
He was speaking now ; to the raja in Malay. 

" One never can tell when there is going to be a break- 
down, " he remarked ; " di-dalam kilau nampak kilat, the 
unlooked for happens, summer brightness often hides forked 
lighting." 

Well, they were very clever, all these people. But talking 
of kilat di-dalam kilau, was not he, too, big with the unexpect- 
ed; for who would guess from his gnarled knuckles and 
shabby sarong that he was the possessor of more than three 
thousand dollars ? He reflected how even his narrow experience 
had taught him the deceit of appearances. He would not be 
surprised if that mellifluous Haji with silver-topped cane and 
yellow leather slippers was impecunious as a mosque mouse. 
Presently the train moved again. Past katnpong and betel 
palm, waste rice-fields and lotus swamp, mean scrub and 
barren gravel of mining lands, it struggled to its destination. 
The third railway journey of Indut's life came to an end. 

He alighted on a platform amid terrific crowds. There 
was a sharp rattle of precipitant rikishas, and the clamour of 
frenzied Chinese pullers, gesticulating and wiping gargoyle 

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faces with dirty cloths. Indut had a knife hidden in his waist- 
band, and his hand gripped instinctively the cotton bundle 
wherein he had wrapped two slips of paper which by mys- 
terious alchemy, he was assured, would be changed into nine 
hundred dollars and two thousand five hundred dollars 
respectively. The glare of the unaccustomed white road half 
blinded him; he faltered nervously before its great breadth 
and tearing vehicles ; but rikishas with fine rugs and white 
cushions were not meant for such as he ; and he started to 
walk with slouching jungle gait along the streets. 

Yes, he had got the name of the place pat before he start- 
ed. It was the Benk he wanted. True the afternoon was 
almost over; there would be no return that day, and his 
treasure hard to house for the night. But he distrusted those 
two slips of paper from the bottom of his mind and was eager 
to see them changed into current coin. Allah knew, it had 
been trouble enough to earn the money. All his life, he had 
had barely more than one coat to his back. His fields had 
yielded him just the measure of rice sufficient for sustenance, 
never the extra peck for sale and profit. It was very lucky 
that tuan had advised him to plant rubber ten years ago, at the 
opportune time : " if the ship does not float when the water is 
in flood, there follows generally a long drought," and he had 
taken fortune with the tide. It was lucky that not more than 
half of his rubber had been destroyed by deer and lalang; 
lucky that the white man of many wiles had found a way to 
use the stuff. He chuckled, as he recalled how he had tried to 
coagulate his first takings by boiling in a pot 1 But the 
chuckle died in his throat, killed by wotry and excitement. 
He wandered nervously up and down hot streets, like a worm 
in the sun (as the proverb goes), turning now hither now 
thither, uncertain of his way. He came to the Benk at last. 
It seemed to be locked fast and a Sikh sentry was pacing up 

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and down. No doubt, that was the way a place with so much 
money should be kept. Yes, there was a small side door. He 
made for it and found himself in a court yard confronted by a 
Hylam cook. 

" Apa lu mau ? Lu churi ! " yelled the Chinaman. 

Indut could not know that the cook had just lost a 
month's wages at Hkam po and was in a rabid temper. He 
was enraged that a pig-eater should curse him for a thief. 
But his anger changed to fear, when the thought struck home 
that he might be arrested there with those two slips of paper 
in his bundle. Certainly, he would stand convicted of theft. 
He stumbled back into the street, and peered along the barred 
shutters. The sentry questioned him and told him to come in 
the morning; explained that the Benk was closed. What 
extraordinary hours ! Why it was only just four o'clock in 
the afternoon. 

He wandered away into the bazaar. Really, it had hardly 
entered his head that there could be so many Chinamen in the 
universe. They were thick as ants. And the durians in piles 
under the senna trees ! He came to a street, where the victims 
of civilization drag out garish jaded days behind green shutters. 
To him, the houses seemed palatial, the women prosperous, 
gay, enviable; it was very strange, certainly; perhaps they 
came from keyangan, fairy-land, whose folk according to 
romance led unaccountable lives. The public gardens must 
assuredly have been copied from pleasaunces in fairy-land. 
They were pretty, but there were no fruit-trees, no vegetables. 
What an expense to keep such grounds in trim merely for 
ornament. Well, he would build a fine house, when he got 
that money. But the garden should be planted thick with 
durians, mangoes, coconuts, rambutans. 

He began to feel hungry, and looked about for an eating- 
shop. It must be a place where he could lodge for the nighti 

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Town life was very expensive. He must try to obtain a lodg- 
ing for thirty cents, or he would not have enough cash to get 
home again. Ah; those thousands of dollars. It seemed 
incredible. Two slips of paper ! Well, every one assured him 
they were good as notes. He must go to bed soon and wake 
very early to reach the Benk in good time. More than three 
thousand dollars! Why, if other folk arrived before him, 
there might not be enough money left in the Benk. It 
would be difficult to find the place again. Even in dense 
jungle, trees were of different kinds ; there were water cour- 
ses to follow ; foot-prints ; broken branches ; notched stems. 
Here all the houses were alike; all streets confusingly an- 
gular, smoothly metalled, intricate and baffling as a puzzle. 
He found himself in a spot less pretentious than the high 
walled streets he had traversed ; with a homely litter of veget- 
able stuffs in the five-foot way, cramping the passage into 
keeping with the goings of poor folk, who have to crawl rather 
than fly. He supposed he would be able to fly soon ; at any 
rate he could afford a new large dug-out when he returned 
home. There were shops where rows and rows of red earthen 
cooking-pots were marshalled for sale; shops where sarong 
and cheap European cottons were folded in piles behind glass 
doors ; shops where boxes of all kinds of dried condiment might 
deceive the new-come European into a belief that they were 
the goods of a seedsman ; and at the corner, a shop redolent 
of garlic and cinnamon and cooked rice, with tables covered 
with black oil-cloth and spread with common Chinese bowls 
and squat earthenware spoons. 

He entered the eating shop and put down his bundle. 
For the first time that day, he was treated with civility, as a 
human being and not as a mere cypher in a crowd. It is true, 
that the proprietor, a Jawi pSkan from Penang, had little res- 
pect for a jungle fellow, whose mouth was full of betel, whose 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

voice was high-pitched as of a man accustomed to live and 
converse in the open, whose head-covering was a kerchief limp 
and twisted like string used for tethering fowl. But there 
were a few cents to be earned from him. What curry would 
he like ? Prawn ? vegetable ? fowl ? or meat ? Why this was 
a spread such as Indut had never seen save at a chief's kenduri. 
Penghulu Majid had offered nothing so good even at the 
wedding of his daughter Halijah. He wished his son Mat had 
been there; the fellow had a tooth for such dishes. For 
himself, a heaped plate of new rice, a few bananas stewed with 
hot chillies, a scrap of dried fish and he was satisfied. He 
■gaped at the number of condiments. The shop-keeper knew 
his man ; took half a dozen of the less popular dishes and put 
them before this casual customer. Indut imagined he was 
being treated with especial courtesy and mumbled his thanks 
in rustic phrases and high-pitched vocables barely intelligible 
to the townsman. Would he have coffee ? This was going to 
be an extravagant meal, but he was ashamed not to live up 
to his surroundings and after all it was rare for him to indulge 
in an outing. He took the coffee. The proprietor grew 
affable. He was talking to a crony wearing a fez, whom he 
addressed as Sheikh, and he condescended to include the new 
customer in their conversation. Had Indut heard that the 
Emperor of Japan was a Muhammadan and was going to send 
an army to deliver the Achinese from the Dutch ? Indut had 
no more concern for the Emperor of Japan or the Dutch than 
he had for Farun (Pharaoh). But the topic was undoubtedly 
distinguished, and he was gratified at being addressed. He 
wondered if he could lead these superior beings to talk of 
rubber and the Benk. Presently, he was surprised and shocked 
to hear the Sheikh call for a bottle of stout and drink it with 
gusto. On further acquaintance, the Sheikh proved to be 
greatly interested in rubber. Had Indut any rubber lands for 

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sale? The price of rubber had fallen and there were few 
buyers now, but the Sheikh would be glad to assist him to 
sell — on komisUn. Perhaps Indut's neighbours had land for 
sale ? Let them by all means consult him, the Sheikh, at this 
eating-house. Indut was lucky to have acquired so much 
wealth ; he would be able to give more alms to the poor : for 
it behoved him to think of eternity and not of this transitory 
world, like a courtezan gay and fine to see but inwardly vile 
and wicked. Many of the Sheikh's similes and much of his 
lore seemed to Indut nasty, but then perhaps his own mind 
could not rise to the subtleties of an orang alim. Anyhow, 
the Sheikh promised to show him the Benk to-morrow and to 
assist him to transmute those two sli^s of paper into money. 
He was much relieved at this kindness and, cheques in belt, 
slept soundly under a table on a mat which the shop-keeper 
spread for him. The last thing he remarked as his head 
touched the hard pillow were blue tapes and metal clips at the 
top of the Sheikh's socks. Socks were a luxury, but he had 
seen them before; sock-suspenders were an enigma. He 
dreamt of bank-notes tied with blue tape. 

" Snores like a water buffalo," murmured the Sheikh to 
the shop-keeper with sarcastic regard. 

***** 

The next morning Indut awoke early as is the wont of 
country-men; also, his project stirred in his heart — or his 
liver, as Malays insist, perhaps appropriately. For bath, he 
had to sling water in a bucket out of a well, and all his life he 
had been used to bathe in a flowing river. He was anxious to 
start for the Benk at once, and the Sheikh's long prayers 
worried him. At last, they set out together and reached the 
bank an hour before it was open to the public. He peeped 
through the half shut door. It seemed a dreary place to keep 
so much money. A Tamil boy was sweeping dust from the 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

floor in clouds. The counters and walls were large, bare, 
empty. After some time the shroff beckoned them forward, 
and counted up two columns in his day-book, while the 
countryman was fumbling with his bundle. He looked at the 
cheques — "pay bearer." 

" Mau sign," he said. 

The Sheikh showed Indut how to make his mark, and 
witnessed it. The shroff flung the cheques away on a desk. 
Indut trembled for his money : it could not be that any one 
would fling so much wealth about in that careless way. The 
shroff pushed forward a tray of dollars and notes. Indut 
stuffed all eagerly into his bundle, and was making off. 

" Count it," said the shroff. 

"Why! you've got only nine hundred dollars as yet," 
said the Sheikh. " What are you doing ? " 

Indut was ashamed and anxious. "You help, tuan," 
said he. 

His friend began to count. The shroff turned away. 
They had their money all right. Indut stooped to put the 
counted notes into his kerchief. The Sheikh slipped one of 
the bundles into his own pocket. It would be hours before 
Indut could finish counting and who should tell how the 
shortage arose ? 

"Banyak terima kaseh, tuan," said Indut, tying up his 
bundle of money. "The tuan must allow me to give him 
komishin for his trouble." 

He was not used to riches yet and tendered a dollar! It 
seemed to him a large sum, enough to buy food for three days 
at least. 

The Sheikh smiled contemptuously. "Never mind," 
he said. 

Indut, sensitive as all his race to shades of manner, 
noticed the look and felt foolish. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

"'Twas my mistake, tuan," said he, "I mistook it for a 
five dollar note," 

The Sheikh took the five dollars, and excused himself 
from further attendance ; he had an appointment elsewhere. 
Indut thanked him again and turned' his foot-steps towards 
the station. People had been very kind. Alhamdu'lillah. 
He would go home now and bury his treasure. In due season 
he would go to Mecca on the pilgrimage ; travel gave a man 
such polish, made one a gentleman. 




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H[S 

LAST 

DEVICE 



ORING over ungrammatical illspelt me- 
moirs and crabbed pedigrees, which 
had passed from his illiterate hands into 
the possession of a raja enthusiast, I had 
learnt the history of his house, its past 
fortunes and greatness and the host of its scions, many almost 
as the sands on the shore of that miniature Malay kingdom. 
The family tree jumbled strange fellows. There was Adam, 
the father of the human race, set down with evangelical 
assurance in Indian ink at the head of the line. There were 
Muhammed the prophet, Siti Fatimah, and many a saidina 
and saint. Of local Malayan fame, the first immigrant had 
won office of state by carving the beams of the Raja's wattled 
palace with cosmopolitan skill ; his son had achieved honour 
as a law-giver by settling what, for Malays, were the entirely 
novel and therefore absorbing problems of how much damage 
should be paid by the owner of a refractory lion or the hirer 
of a debilitated camel ; his grandson at a national crisis had 
enhanced still further the family's name by the weighty 
counsel that, in order to impress a meddling Dutch commis- 
sary with sense of the state's temporal power, the Raja and 



[ 35 ] 



3A 



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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

his court had best discard comfort for an afternoon and don 
coats ! 

The multitude of descendants from those ancient worthies 
was legion, a very few prosperous, most poor, some peasants, 
some pushing ploughs, stupid, bucolic, courteous, passionate, 
wise; dotted along every bank in that river kingdom. 
None of them had attained the distinction of their early 
progenitors, except perhaps this grey fragile old man, who 
had been selected their chief for his prowess as Cock-Fighter 
and fencer by a bye-gone Raja half a century ago. His gold- 
sheathed keris of office was slipping now from feeble fingers ; 
many passions, many tropical years had wasted him to a mere 
shadow of manhood. Etiquette, that let him sound the royal 
trumpet as far down the artery of the State as the bar where 
the surf broke and the grey mullet leapt in sparkling waves — 
that same etiquette decreed with callous incongruity, that he 
should attire his wasted frame in rose-pink, the colour of 
wanton youth steering full sail down paths of pleasure. But, 
though the royal trumpet might blare at the poop of his barge, 
the only kingdom worth having, the kingdom of youth, had 
departed from him and he had nothing now in the jubilee 
of office to remind of those days except that absurd costume 
of rose-pink, which suited the sunlight and the palms so well 
and his meagre figure so ill. He had drunk a wild deep 
draught of the power and lust of a chief of his race and 
generation; strange to reflect, had ravished and killed with 
those thin nerveless hands and wooed and dared and cowed 
with those lack-lustre eyes; first once in the chase, in war, in 
love. There wqfe dead women with distracting languor and 
jet flower-starred tresses ; one, especially, fairer than honour, 
the wife of his playmate and friend — but he was too tired 
now for remorse, too jaded to remember. A long, untamed 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

unhindered life had lavished upon him with Oriental prodigality 
all emotions and all passions, burning desires, fierce jealousy, 
hot hate and, last of all, this slow sad measure of satiety and 
fatigue. 

He commanded respect not from wisdom or cleverness 
but from long tenure of office and his great age. Men came 
before him, backs bent and hands spread in deference or lifted 
in attitude of supplication ; told him of their ambitions and 
loves and despairs, enthusiasms of the spring and heyday of 
life, and he listened with apathy as to stories of a world he 
could no longer realize, and gave counsel and orders weighty 
with experience and dispassionate as the oracle of a god. 
Years ago, it had been gall and wormwood to him, when, with 
the white man's coming, authority had gone out from his gold- 
sheathed dagger and left it a mere toy ; now he was glad to be 
quit of responsibility. Years ago, he had felt jealous of 
younger, keenerwitted chiefs, in that decade when reputation 
for wisdom had accrued to him beyond his desert from the one 
notable saying of his life, that a seat on the white man's 
council was sugar for a caged bird; but now, well, he was 
ready enough to let younger shoulders bear the burdens of 
place. Only habit of loyalty and constraint of office led him 
to court in those latter days. 

He was a Hamba Tua and must serve his Raja to the 
brink of the grave. Looking at him in his dotage, one would 
have sworn the salt of life had lost all savour, that there was 
no tie, nor passion nor humour to keep the flickering spirit 
under that pink costume alive. Then, at death's door, he did 
a thing which put him in the galaxy of those worthies, his 
ancestors, who had won fame respectively from the carver's 
chisel and the wisdom of the petit maitre. 

He was delicate and very weak. His royal master 
insisted that he should allow the tuan doktor to prescribe. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

He suffered his pulse to be felt, his chest to be tapped and 
pronouncement to be made. 

"You want nourishment, tenghu. We must feed you up. 
I'll send some Frame Food, uhat badan tnakan" — the Malay 
idiom was not impeccable. 

The only ubat badan makan that the old chief could think 
of was a sharp spear or keris, but he concealed his feelings and 
the doctor expanded the phrase and explained that this was a 
cereal powder to mix with food. A powder to mix with the 
rice Allah had provided for the sustenance of his servants ! 
And how very youthful this white medicine-man looked ! 
Still, with the fine courtesy of his race, he hid his distrust and 
gave profuse thanks for a diagnosis so profound and for the 
packet of Frame Food. After that, he certainly brightened. 
He even called at the Hospital to express his appreciation of 
the treatment, and ask for more Frame Food. The medical 
department braved the green pencil of the auditor to provide 
the luxury for so distinguished and influential a patient. 
Hopes were entertained that some of the inhabitants of that 
river reach where the tenghu bore sway would now apply for 
European treatment — at any rate for fever and simple mala- 
dies. Then the medical officer suffered a rude awakening. 
He had occasion to visit the Chinese store in the village. 
There, in the place of honour, were those packets of Frame 
Food ! The shop-keeper declared that the tengku himself had 
brought them in exchange for tobacco, explaining that they 
were an excellent medicine for debility, better than soin for the 
Chinese constitution. Alas ! the old man had never thought 
the Utan would demean himself by resorting to a Chinese 
store. He had taken a senile grasping pleasure in his little 
ruse and, above all, had prided himself on his diplomacy 
The Raja had been pleased and surprised at such adaptability 

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" There, in the place of honour, were (hose packets of 
Frame Food." 



Digitized by Microsoft® 



Digitized by Microsoft® 



MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

to European treatment in his old-world follower ; the doctor 
had been delighted at his reiterations of confidence in the 
prescription ; and he — well, he had enjoyed tobacco gratis for 
a month and upheld the tradition of his family for finesse. 




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A SOOTHER OF 




E sat cross-legged on the holystoned 
deck of my launch, crushing betel to a 
scarlet pulp in a mortar and ever and 
anon drawing the straight steel pestle 
across his lips with an appreciative 
relish ; he was a tall, big-limbed old man for a Malay, 
straight-backed, clean shaven, with a strong face. 

"This breeze makes me feel young again," he remarked. 
"It is long since I knew the sea: I mind me when I first 
thridded the shoals and mud-banks of these waters ; it was a 
keris I had to carry in my belt then, and not this betel-mortar. 
' What is the rule at sea ? Sail with the breeze : anchor 
in calm,' runs a sailor's saying ; but it was risky work to anchor 
hereabouts then, if a man had goods aboard. Pirates 
swarmed. The country was in arms ; the Chinese ungovern- 
able ; there were two steersmen at the helm, two Sultans, that 
is, on the throne ; the white man came. Yes ! I was young in 
those days and a soldier of fortune, as all could see, ay ! even 
from the tie of my headkerchief with its ends projecting in the 
style of the 'fighting elephants' as we dubbed it. Men were 
men then, not pliant scribes or mannerless babblers, thanks to 
the keris each wore at belt and the will to wipe black shame 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

from their faces. Yet, if my tales be true, even those of my 
generation were lesser men than their fathers before them. 
See landward the sheer white sides of yonder mountain ? 
They say how in the old times a famous hermit lived atop 
there and a man might climb to his cave and learn of him the 
secrets which could turn the dagger-blade to water and the 
bullet from its course. Perhaps the old gods are dead, Batara 
Guru, Batara Kala. It is clear they lived once, but I think 
they may be gone now. Allah alone knows. Ha! the tuaii's 
foot still hurts? They deal a sore thrust, those ray-fish. 
Would the titan like me to exorcize the poison?" 

And leaning forward he drew his hand upwards and down- 
wards across the smart, blew on it and commenced to mumble 
a shibboleth of Indonesian and Hindu magic, clinched with a 
threat of the virtue of the Moslem creed. 

" It is time for prayer," he said at last, after a look at the 
setting sun, " if the ttmn wiW allow| me to retire awhile; and 
afterwards I will go on with that tale of Awang Sulong Merah 
Muda, the Red Prince, as I learnt it in my youth, or I can 
relate how I helped the white man in the Perak war and 
rescued the body of the Resident from the river down by 
Bandar." 

I watched him step back where the crew squatted, a man 
of larger stature and experience than those lean boys, intent on 
cards and questionable tales. I could picture him in his own 
youth ready to pay for clean loves with life-blood, not wanton 
with dirty dollars, ready to acknowledge deeds and misdeeds 
and abide the consequence without resort to peddling lawyer 
and quibbling court. Many a tale from his lips had let me 
take a fair measure of his manhood. He had been a soldier 
of fortune but no fire-eater; he was resolute always but 
cautious always ; he did not like war where peace was possible 
and often shook his head over the memory of stockades rushed 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

and kampongs burnt, as over so much waste of life and 
property. I could not well imagine him, however, conducting 
an ambush ; he was so straight a man in thought, and speech 
and deed. The casual observer would hardly have believed it, 
perhaps ; for now in old age, strength and need to wield 
weapons gone, he was a pawang by profession ; he blessed 
crops in the name of Batara Guru; he exorcized sickness to 
the navel of the sea and the sunken reef where the mythical 
coco tree grows ; and he kept each hour of prayer, devout as 
the most devout of Mussulmans. Yet there was no double- 
faced hypocrisy in this attitude, but rather a practical soldier 
bluntness; he did not seek to win money from the credulous 
by muttering charms in which he had no faith ; those charms 
had come down from immemorial antiquity, hallowed by use 
at annual harvest and the sick-bed of countless generations ; it 
could not be but that they were efficacious, and it was not for 
him but for bookish theologians to reconcile them with the 
religion of the mosque. His simple faith, like that of more 
sophisticated superstitions, had its reward ; for I had seen the 
quiet strength of his very presence bring rest and his calm 
convincing recital of antique rigmarole send sleep to many a 
fevered patient. 

He returned from his prayers. 

" Ha," he said, "so the kcan has got pen and paper ready. 
It was writing that ruined me. After the war, the Company 
made me a headman and because I was illiterate gave me a 
clerk ; the fellow was a rogue and cheated me and the Com- 
pany ; no one attached blame to me, but I was ashamed and 
fearful of what others that followed him might do, and I re- 
signed; it is hard fighting when one cannot see the enemy." 

"And how do you live now?" I asked him. 

"Like a fowl," he laughed; what I scratch up in the 
morning, I eat in the morning ; what I scratch up in the 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

evening, I eat in the evening; there are no leavings. The 
sale of my garden-stuff keeps me going from day today; a 
little I earn as pawang, very little, as mostly my services are 
rendered to my own people; the profits of the rice-harvest wipe 
off debts or yield enough for the expense of one's children's 
weddings. Yes, times are hard. Everything is very dear 
nowadays, and the Chinaman has the money. Has the tuan 
ever seen a starved old woman in rags fishing in the drain near 
my kampong} I remember the time when a man might not 
see so much as her heel, were he ready to give a thousand 
dollars." 

And he quoted the stock tag of Malay romance on 
woman's beauty — 

" Browed like newly risen crescent ; 

Like to spurs her curving eye-brows ; 

Her cheek like slice of golden manggo ; 

Her nose as fair as jasmine blossom ; 

Dainty her ears as th' curling lotus ; 

Tapering her neck as vase from Raman ; 

Round as curve of bow her fore-arm ; 

Like spears of lemon-grass her fingers ; 

Waist the span of a tiny finger ; 

Legs as plump as swelling rice-grain ; 

Heels as eggs so fair and shapely ; 

Fine her toes as yellow gold." 
"But shall I get on with my tale?" he asked. "Of 
course, it should not be recited at sea, they say, but the white 
men are no respecters of spirits, and I do not think the storm 
demons will venture near a Government steam launch. It is 
lucky we finished the passage about the tempest last night 
on shore ; I can continue now about the fair weather voyage 
of the Red Prince and his princess, the Pride of Java, along 
this very coast." 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

He started to chant, his voice at first cracked with age 
and disuse but strengthening as he warmed to his tale. The 
hour grew late : the launch clock had struck the hour of mid- 
night : I dozed on the top of my cabin but still his voice rose 
strong and interested across the moon-lit bay. For me his 
tale with its mixture of many superstitions, layer upon layer, 
possessed indeed a dilettante interest ; to him it was what 
Robinson Crusoe or Treasure Island are to a school-boy, what 
The Odyssey must have been to a Greek fisherman. Adventure 
had gone out of his life; his home was poor; his clothes 
cotton, and his wife old and ugly. But as he recited, he 
lived in a different world ; princes in the splendour of old- 
world raiment fought battles with magic arts and weapons, 
rescued lovely maidens in distress, travelled from land to land 
in search of adventure, debonair, irresistible, possessed of the 
secret of perpetual youth and passion. Visions of sunlight 
and sea peeped out of the rude verse; sails filled with the 
freshening breeze, and youth sat at the prow gay with silks 
and colour and love, whispering honeyed nothings to prin- 
cesses such as never were even on the green islands and sum- 
mer seas of the Malay Archipelago. 




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HEN first I made her acquaintance, 
she looked a wi2ened old woman, dis- 
hevelled, dirty, filmy-eyed; and yet, 
I was to learn later, she could have 
known hardly more than fifty fierce, 
year-long tropical summers. She was one of that class of 
lesser Malay rajas, who more than all others have reason and 
excuse for hugging the memory of a former age, the memory 
of licence and power and respect, the memory of a time when 
the horn-bill, however battered his plumage, was always a 
horn-bill and the sparrow, however pert, could never be aught 
but a sparrow, so rigid were distinctions of class. A wilful 
girl, half dove, half hawk, ravishing the hearts of her mild 
eyed brooding mankind, she had been wont to collect tribute 
in those days on her river, the river over which her ancestors 
for two centuries had lorded as a right ; and scandal, whispered 
by old folk, her peers, with sage noddings over betel, averred 
how with dagger in nervous supple grasp she had been as eager 
in quest of lovers as in quest of tribute, how she had warmed 
both dainty hands before the fire of life with zest enough for a 
dozen conventional women even of her race and clime. The 
fire was sunk now. For her (one felt with the superfluous 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

sentiment of one's civilization) life henceforth must be a 
blank vestibule wherein she had to await the slow release of 
death : — 

" Ainsi le bon temps regretons 

Entre nous, pauvres vieilles sottes, 

Assises bas, k croppetons, 

Tout en ung tas comme pelottes ; 

A petit feu de chenevottes, 

Tost allum6es, tost estainctes, 

Et jadis fusumes si mignottes ! 

Ainsi en prend k maintz et maintes." 
Wasted pity, because though she had been devoured by 
many passions, she never, I am sure, entertained the morbid 
passion of remorse; because despite failure and disappointment 
and age, she still nursed hopes and interests, still had courage 
and looked to the future. 

She had outgrown a feudal civilization and almost all that 
made life for her worth living, but she had not out-grown use 
and place, at any rate in her own eyes. Was there a birth, she 
would be present to utter Arab invocations, that except as 
potent spells were " miching mallecho " to her pagan mind ; or 
she would swing a cradle, crooning in a cracked treble lullabies 
that had charmed the infant royalty of Malaya into slumber 
time out of mind. Was there a marriage, who but she should 
know the traditional duties of duenna? Who else start the 
bridal song or teach the steps of the henna dance ? If there 
was a death, where could sorrow sit more fitly than on her grey 
sunken face ? or who better able than she to recall the career 
of the departed with its follies and foibles, its sins and its virtues 
dating from the almost forgotten past. 

The short reign of the Oriental woman is a common-place ; 
in reality, her reign actually begins when it is supposed usually 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

to have ended. As a girl and a young bride, she is cabined 
and confined, not allowed for instance to eat the toothsome 
burnt rice for fear it darken her complexion, not allowed to 
take a part in affairs for fear of her morals. As a mother, she 
has more scope. As a matron, she dictates to men-folk and 
wields sway such as a suffragette might toil for centuries to 
acquire. So, this old raja lady was a force in her petty sphere. 
The years that had robbed her of beauty and reputation, had 
left her a full measure of memories and abundant confidence ; 
she would babble of princes and high officials and the great 
ones of her world ; she would beg and sell mining-lots ; specu- 
late in rubber land ; negotiate marriages— all affairs of small 
moment but to her absorbing, important, warp and weft of the 
stuff of her life. She was not confined to one village or one 
district, but would travel from the house of one chief to that of 
another, from one country to another, at times even overseas- 
No company found her at a loss; no misfortune dismayed her. 
She was essentially a woman of the world and she lived by her 
wits, not indeed a life of pleasure, for carking poverty hung 
ever over her, but a life full of interests. 

She had her hopes, built to the music of soothing old- 
world saws, "and therefore never built at all and therefore 
built for ever." Surely royal luck, proverbial among people of 
her race, which had led remote ancestors to the shores of their 
principalities, given them regalia from the depths of the sea, 
protected them from enemies, guided them in omens and 
dreams; surely, it could never desert even its humblest in- 
heritor? And then would not her own merits avail to win 
fortune in the end ? There was a litter of ant-eaten mildewed 
documents kept in a grimy bundle under an old brass betel- 
service ; some day those papers bearing the seal manual of dead 
Sultans and the signatures of British officers of a past genera- 
tion would bring a larger pension, a rich tinfield, a liberal 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

suitor for some grandchild's hand. Then, too, there were 
talisnjans, which should realize their inherent luck. Perhaps, 
it was useless now to keep them stored away, but falling into 
the right hands — . I remember how chagrined she was once, 
because the offer of a knot of Malacca cane with a natural mark 
that those living in or sympathetic with her plane of thought 
might have taken for a face, had failed to accomplish some 
impossible plea in high quarters. 

It was easy to learn her thoughts and ambitions, because 
she had that directness of conversation, embarrassing as nudity 
to modern society, wherein lies half the charm of the Malay and 
others at his stage of culture ; the directness without the coarse- 
ness of " the Wife of Bath." She was old and she never 
pretended for one moment that she was young. She was 
desperately poor and admitted it with a shrug or a shake of her 
grey coifed head. She had been and still was wicked with 
aristocratic scorn of opinion and confessed it rather wistfully — 
adding the half truth that beggars cannot choose their own 
lives ; doubtless she had chosen to develop other sides of her 
character than would be chosen by a professor of moral 
philosophy, but from childhood she too had been a humble, 
unconscious disciple in the school of "self-realization," had 
followed unbridled her impulses and desires ; short-lived they 
may have been but none the less real and leading far enough 
from the religious ideal which bans half of experience to the 
devil. 

" Assises bas, a croppetons 
Tout en ung tas comme pelottes." 

The stern moralist would reflect, how she had made her 
bed and must lie on it. In me she prompted other thoughts. 
Dust and ashes, where once there had been fire ; but that fire 
had not been extinguished pettily by trivialities and con- 
ventions, had never been thwarted by this or that theory of 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

conduct, but had burnt out as a natural event under stress of 
passion, the bearing of children, war, the crumbling of her 
world about her feet; had burnt leapingly as flame a-work 
among the sere rank growth of that tropical forest, which fate 
had given her for cradle home and grave. 




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A DEALER IN 
DAGGERS 




THt RIUA ClinBrO THC RIVTRBANH, 
CUMatD^WCNI-TO THE CRArTSMANS OOOR: 
HC ORCVI HIS PlAlO ABOUT HIS HfAD 

roRArEvrn hacked him sorc 

"CRArTsnAN'SAIOHE"lVl lU ATCASC 
MV60DY SIC.K,AnRC MY BRAIN; 

nAKcsoniNCWHArT roRcRtcst i rm 

WHICH StEINO I'll fOrtCET MTf RAIN" 



HiSBOWfD HEAD WRAPT IN roLOrDFlAlb 
THE RAJA KNELT WlT« BENDED THICH 
HUDDIED.MIS EtBOWS ROUND WSKMECS- 
A MODEL TMERE FOR THE CRAnSrW&nf 

THfllWrrSMAtlSTRMtHT TOOK CWSll THE 
AND YELLOW GOLDEN rAOLC-WOOD; 
AND FASHIONED TOR NEW DACCER-HAn 

THE FEvraro chieftain in his mood. 

(vfBStFlECg 



was an old Malay, very old according to 
the Oriental estimate with its respect- 
ful exaggeration, and in sober truth of 
some seventy summers. His hair was 
white, whiter than his daily wear, a Mecca pilgrim's crotchet 
skull cap and flowing cotton gown; the iris of his eye had 
paled to the colour of cold steel ; and age had chiselled his fine 
head and slightly aquiline nose to severe profile. But the 
mouth showed firm under the sparse white beard ; his figure 
was well knit, erect and soldier-like ; his gait still alert and sure ; 
and his skin, paled somewhat by old age, looked fresh and 
healthy as a russet pippin under his yellow Arab turban. In 
his right hand he carried a dingy white umbrella ; dusty white 
(as of a pilgrim who had travelled far and long) being the 
dominant note of colour in his picturesque old-world figure. 
In his left, he held a three-jointed Malacca cane, six foot long, 
and a bundle containing bananas ; a box for the betel-nuts, 
lime and sireh-leaf, which all elderly folk and some young 
chew till their mouths are stained scarlet ; and lastly, certain 
knives which stringent police rules made it politic to conceal. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

In the left side of his belt was thrust the brass-bound wooden 
tube and crusher, with which toothless old people pound their 
betel-nuts ; on the right side, hidden away in folds of cloth, 
nestled a short straight damascened dagger or badik, which he 
always wore for luck and refused to part with, shabby cracked 
little blade though it was, for any bribe or cajolery; — its 
cracks, he said, were called " the steps of gold." 

Putting umbrella cane and bundle down in my verandah, 
he lifted folded hands to brow and stooping low just touched 
my hands between his palms in Muhammadan salutation. 

" Is the news good ?" he asked. 

" The news is pretty good," I answered, " and how is it 
with thee ? " 

"But middling," he replied, touching on his usual topic 
with his usual polite nonchalance, " ever since I lost those six 
boats in the war, six boats almost new and of lucky measure- 
ment, fate has left me but a poor man, tuan." 

"Ah!" I laughed, " how was it the lucky measurements 
did not save those boats from capture ? " 

"The tuan is making fun of me," he said, smiling; "but 
verily, talking of lucky measurements, I have a creese in this 
bundle very old and very lucky. Would the tuan like to 
examine it? The tuan, also, is skilled in these matters." 
And he pulled out a dagger with ebony haft, silver mounting, 
a polished sheath the colour of an old Cremona, and a black 
sinister blade some eight inches long, twisted and watered 
with damascene till it looked like a snake. 

" A Patani blade, a pandai Sara blade. There be three 
famous Patani makers, pandai Sara, pandai Muhammad, and 
bandai Thaib, and pandai Sara is the oldest and best. Not 
even a fowl is bold enough to cross the man that wears this 
dagger, but will turn aside off his path." 

[ 51 ] 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

I laughed. " There is a fowl in the garden, would'st thou 
test thy blade. But what damasking is this ? " and I pointed 
to the watering on the steel. 

"The 'mountain' mark, ttmn the 'mountain' mark, good 
to wear, when bartering, buying and selling." 

" And why should the m juntain' mark be so lucky ?" 

" I cannot tell. The tuan asks deep questions. Our 
fathers have told us, and what more do we know. Perhaps it 
is because a mountain is beautiful and entices and conquers 
the hearts of men. As for the measurement of the blade, has 
the tuan a strip of palm-leaf that I may show him ? " 

I sent my orderly into the garden to fetch a coconut leaf. 
The old man shredded it and showed me how to measure from 
stem to point and then across and round the blade at three 
places, repeating " Sickness, captain, lady," as English 
children repeat " Rich man, poor man, beggar-man, thief," 
over seeds of grass. 

" See," he said, " at point ' lady,' at stem and centre 
' captain.' A lucky blade. The hearts of women follow the 
wearer. Will not the Umh buy ? Thirty dollars only." 

" Father," I said, " thou art old: the hearts of women may 
follow thee and no harm done. But the hearts of women may 
follow a young man and luck not ensue." 

" Thou speakest well, tuan. And if there were ' lady ' 
at base or centre as well as at point, then evil might chance. 
But when at centre and base 'captain' supports 'lady' 
at point, the heart of the wearer shall not wax effeminate in 
his love passages nor strength and cunning fail him in love's 
quarrels. See, tuan, the ' mountain ' damask-mark runs more 
than half-way up the blade, bringing thee thy heart's uttermost 
desire. Seldom is a dagger like this for sale: it is kept in 
a chest and gives luck to a house; the owner wears it in 
the rice-field and his crop is plentiful ; it is handed down as an 

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heirloom in families. Trouble enough I had to get it, knowing 
the tuan desired such weapons. Two days' journey into the 
jungle, much parley and betel-chewing, the summoning of 
children and grand-children, before the heirloom could be 
sold. Never should I have obtained it in the old days; but 
now this is the white man's land and a man may not wear 
dagger in belt, when he goes abroad. The price is low. 
Any man would give five silver dollars for such a ' section 
of lime-fruit ' to his sheath." And he handled the beautiful 
wooden cross-piece, so called from its shape, like a lover. 

" Yes," he continued, going over to where my collection 
hung : " here are some pretty blades — this sapokal Bugis steel, 
very venomous, and the ' broken tooth ' (a chip in the steel 
under the guard), not the work of the craftsman, that mark, 
but the doing of Allah : I myself would give a hundred dollars 
or a buffalo for it, had I the means. A blade to leap out of 
the sheath when danger is nigh ; an eagle-wood crosspiece to 
the sheath with parallel veins that can avert every blow aimed 
at its wearer. This sheath too," (taking up another dagger) 
" it looks shabby enough but cunning was the workman that 
chose it with the ' fish-navel ' vein on either side, the vein that 
brings good fortune and the heart's desire. May I draw?" 
he asked. " We Malays fear to let another draw our dagger; 
perchance he wills us evil and possessing a more potent weapon, 
by virtue of it may touch our blade in malice and extract all 
temper from the steel." 

Drawing the dagger gingerly from the sheath, he held the 
point up to his ear. 

"Poor metal," he said, "gives no noise: steel of fine 
temper makes a noise like the noise in a sea-shell : an old 
blade makes a man's ear feel hot. There be men afraid 
to draw an old dagger, for fear its potency afflict them with 
sickness or death." 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

" What is the history of the keris pichit, the creese shaped 
and fashioned by the craftsman's mere naked finger ? " I 
asked. " Two such daggers I have seen : one belonging to 
a river chieftain and one to the son of a banished Sultan ; and 
the Raja's blade at least looked as if it might indeed have been 
so shaped and bent, though haft and sheath and steel were old 
and shabby." 

" What matters haft and sheath, tuaii. It is true, these 
Perak fellows love ivory and horn and gold-mounting, 
but men of my race say ivory haft and ivory ferrule but draw 
the temper from the blade. Better the lucky blade be kept 
hiltless and sheathless, that it may bring all the gifts of 
heaven to its owner's house. Let Allah, whose name be 
praised, see fine sheath and hilt and He will say, ' The owner 
possesses goods in sufficiency and needs no help of mine 
But as for these thumb-fashioned daggers, there are only 
seven in the world, and a Sultan might exchange his kingdom 
for any one of them. The man that made them had eaten 
neither rice nor fish nor curry from childhood up but cold tea 
only. And the owner of such a blade must keep it point in air 
towards the sky where no mortals are ; for if it be laid down 
to point east or west, north or south, all men that live in its 
direction straightway suffer calamity, death, sickness, ill- 
fortune. The ttian has heard how our Malay rhapsodists, 
soothers of village care, sing of these magic weapons? No? I 
think I can repeat it : — 

Blade and cross-piece one unjointed ; 

Down the damask silver veining. 

Forged of parent primal steel. 

Sifted first and hammered after, 

Fragment broke from Adam's stave ; 

Chip of steel from Khorassan. 

Would you clean the blade \s ith acid 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Take it to an inner chamber. 

Would you clean the blade in water, 

Choose the river's upper reaches. 

If a month ago a stranger 

Went a-carrying his bundle, 

Stab the spot his feet have trodden 

He shall die before its magic ; 

If a month ago the swimmer 

Hied from out some Bugis river, 

Stab where'er his ripples eddied 

He shall die before its magic. 

If its point has drawn a blood gout 

Let one drop but trickle earthward 

For a year the rice-crops wither ; 

Let one drop but trickle seaward 

For a year no fishes sport." 
"Allah!" he continued, " youth is good; when limbs are 
supple and the heart young. The tuan is young yet and 
knows not the sweetness of it and the evils of old age. Ah," 
clutching a straight dagger called 'the wanton ' in his right 
hand and a short curved knife ' the cock's tail-feather ' in his 
left and putting himself in attitude of fence, "Ah, but the 
young men nowadays cannot fence as they could of old." 
And he made two or three sweeping paces across my verandah 
thrusting and guarding, with the light of memories on his 
face. 

" So," he said, picking up bundle and cane, " so, I may 
leave this dagger with the tuan. And the tuan has got me 
that pink arsenic which keeps a blade bright : I want it for 
my creese with the damask marks which the knowing call 
' the grass-hopper's legs.' Luck be to thy journeying. The 
tuan is going away, and before he comes back, who knows ? 

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I may have returned to the mercy of Allah: and indeed I 
shall not be loth ; friends are always dying or going away ; few 
of my comrades are left and the thoughts of the young folk 
are not as mine. Luck be to thy journeying, tuan. It is time 
I started home, before the sun is high and the shadows round 
my feet." 



The old man had gone. I turned to my orderly, a 
Javanese, who had been standing by ; and asked him, " Well, 
Thaib, what do you think? Is the old Achinese skilled in 
creese lore? in the mystery of damascenes and measure- 
ments ? " 

" Skilled,' tuan. Where be men of his race that are not 
skilled? Perhaps he has lived over-long among these high- 
land folk, seeing he has come to praise Patani blades. But he 
was right about poor steel and good steel, and the keris pichit. 
Myself I am no adept in these matters. But my father had 
eighteen blades, five of them good. One of them would turn 
to water if the house caught fire, and dout the flames, setting 
about its business with a noise like the noise of a breeze. 
Another would ever leave the house and its sheath on the 
evening of a lucky day, of Friday for instance, take its way 
winding and hissing along the wall, no longer steel but bright 
flame, glide into the garden and lie across the fork of a tree : 
it would leave between seven and eight o'clock and return at 
one in the morning ; a third, when stuck in your belt, would 
keep away rain, so that it might pour on right hand and 
on left but the wearer's path remain dry." 

I sent my orderly about his work and sat and reflected on 
the charm of the unknown ; and I half resolved that, though 
the Malay Peninsula had almost realized the expectation of my 
fancy, Java should never be visited by me but remain a vision, 
tempting and wonderful as dreams that come through the 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

ivory gates, the vision of a land encircled by treacherous 
summer seas, seas to which no one in a green coat may draw 
nigh, seas on whose waves Javanese rajas walk twice a year 
without sinking by virtue of their royal blood ; the vision of a 
land where knives walk in the orchards like flame and where 
Dutchmen smoke cigars two feet long. 




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THE LEPER'S 
PARTING. 




From Ricc-riELDSToo Ruocron cmb/vnkments, 

PROn STRrAMSTOOSHALLOV/ FORnSH: 

A PLACt WHCRE THE APE HOWLS TO THE NICHT, 

WHERE THrCrBBON SVINOS DOWN TO DKINK; 

Where eolk nusT eat fcrn-shoots." 

ALAY folk-tales often take for hero 
and heroine a foolish couple, too shy 
to mix with their fellows a few reaches 
down river, preferring rather to eke 
out a scanty subsistence on the rice and pumpkins and yams 
of a remote up-land clearing. They are fond from habit and 
lack of imagination ; Ma Andeh knows to a nicety the number 
of chiUies Pa Pandir likes to his curry ; Pa Pandir has seen 
hardly a dozen other women in his life, and they black with 
the kisses the tropic sun gives agriculturists, black but not 
comely. There is no more high passion or romance in their 
lives than there is presumably in the vegetable loves of their 
garden. Ma Andeh's days and thoughts are occupied with 
pounding the rice, tending the pot and nursing the baby ; Pa 
Pandir spends hours watching his bananas ripen or setting a 
quaint conical trap made of thorns to catch one fish ! So little 
greed is there in rural ambition. Their only excitement is 
a birth or a death. For with the best intentions in their 
witless primitive world they let a fair proportion of their 
children die and devote their day-long leisure to spoiling the 
survivors. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Just such a couple were Hitam and Long his wife, of Ulu 
Chegar. White men and railways and motor cars have been 
common enough for years in Malaya ; these folk may have 
met a rare specimen of the first, but the "fire carriage" and 
the "ghost carriage" had never come near their retreat nor 
had they gone a-field to see them. Their interests began and 
ended in a poor garden, a stretch of river, a little space of 
forest. In these, to be sure, they discovered far more than 
would strike a stranger — -a fresh banana sucker visible above 
ground only two days since, a big temoli to be trapped in the 
pool below the freshet, the track of mouse-deer up to the hole 
in the unkempt fence towards the forest, and everywhere, but 
especially in the boskage of the tall merbau tree, a host of 
unseen spirits, some kind, some vindictive. 

Alas ! there was one canker in the garden of their content. 
Hitam had suffered the finger of a malignant spirit and was a 
leper. Yet he and his wife, no more susceptible to acute 
anxiety than to great pleasure, were hardly moved by their 
misfortune. The disease had made little head-way and if 
cotton streamers were tied long enough on the branches of the 
merbau, in time the evil spirit might remove that finger of 
wrath. 

Fate decreed that time was not to be given him. It came 
about through a letter couched in the hybrid diction of official 
Malay writers and signed in the margin by an implacable 
white man. Even so, the letter might have been harmless. 
If it had fallen into the hands of old 'To Pandak, for instance! 
He had been an assiduous picker-up of unconsidered but valu- 
able durian orchards, the lawful property of Sakais, if property 
were a word to be considered in relation with such jungle 
swine. And he had had a keen nose for tin. But for lepers, 
in the «/«! and his family's anak buah time out of mind? 
" The knee was nearer than the foot " and popularity with his 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

dependents more important than the whims of the white man. 
Unfortunately, he had retired full of years and durian or- 
chards, and Che Brahim who ruled in his stead was a headman 
of the new school. The drill and routine of an education 
conducted more or less on European lines had robbed him of 
half the urbanity and tolerance of his race ; and the drab 
khaki uniform which he thought good form was a fair symbol 
at least of his official mind. His idol, the god that had made 
him out of a man of straw into a penghulu, was the British 
Government, not local popularity which as a stranger he could 
never win nor plums which his predecessors had picked to the 
kernel. If his own father had been a leper and the order had 
come to surrender him, Che Brahim would hardly have 
hesitated. And here he was instructed to make search in a 
place where he had no friends or relations. He sat down 
complacently and copied the order in a neat Roman hand into 
his note-book: — "This is to inform our friend that careful 
inquiry and search is to be made throughout his mukim in 
case any persons afflicted with leprosy may be found. Hany 
are discovered, tliey should be put on a raft and despatched 
down river, that the Government may care and prescribe for 
them, and their friends be free from the danger of infection." 

For his own part, Che Brahim had a vague suspicion that 
Government cast away the unhappy wretches on a desert 
island in mid-ocean ; but he kept that idea to himself as 
incompatible with official khaki, and circulated the discreet 
and loyal opinion that they were merely to be taken to head- 
quarters and there rubbed with medicine of quick and 
sovereign property. Even with that inducement, few lepers 
were forth-coming ; all those in accessible places having been 
snapped up by the summary methods of the police. At last, 
by the aid of some time-server, he had got wind of Hitam at 
Ulu Chegar and set off up-river to hunt him down.- 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Hitam, squatting under a clump of bamboos and staring 
into the pool was taken by surprise, when the strange boat 
rounded the head-land; not of course that it would have 
struck him to escape in any circumstances. Its khaki-clad 
occupant was unknown to him. The boat drew up to his 
garden and the standing of the penghulu was conveyed to him 
almost at the same moment that a big fish entered his jut, the 
ingenious trap from which only the flow of current prevents 
escape. 

"You bring luck to a poor man, data," he said politely, 
extracting his catch and offering it as a gift to the new- 
comers. 

The penghulu refused, partly because he felt uncomfortable, 
partly because, being town-bred, he had no more stomach for 
river fish than Hitam would have had for fish from the sea. 
Half unconsciously, he realized that here was an occasion 
when the old-time diplomacy "he had learnt as a child would 
serve better than the abrupt methods of European discipline. 
He climbed up the bank, sat down under the bamboos and 
asked for a sugar-cane to quench his thirst, talking the while of 
weather and crops. At last when occasion seemed ripe, he 
broached the subject of his visit. 

"That's a sick leg you've got, Hitam," said he; "'twere 
well it were medicined." 

"Ah! dato," said the man uneasily, " 'tis no matter." 

"Well! when a woman's ailing, there's no place for her 
but the mid-wife, as the saying goes." 

" To be sure, if the mid-wife knows her business." 

" The white man's doctors are very clever," ventured the 
head-man. 

" No wonder, seeing that the white man is descended from 
jinputeh," the sick man retorted. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

"Well, there'd be no harm in giving them a trial, would 
there?" 

" I've tried even the Sakai medicine-man," said Hitam. 
And as for the tuan doktor, how should a poor man like me 
get down river to consult him or haye money to fee him ? " 

" That's simple enough," and the penghulu pulled out the 
magistrate's letter and read such portions as suited his 
purpose. " The Company cares for its ryots as a hen for her 
chicken and you can have free passage and free medicine." 

" But what about the hen and her chicken ? " lifting his 
chin uneasily in the direction of his wife and their five-year 
old child. 

" They may come, too, for a holiday," said Che Brahim. 

Malay diplomacy is apt to be as tedious as Malay packing 
is expeditious, but by the afternoon that family with its bundle 
of cotton clothes and its palm-leaf bag of betel utensils was 
accommodated with a raft and drifting idly down-stream. 
They reached head-quarters the next day and the leper was 
conducted at seeming liberty to the rumah sakit. There, after 
being kept waiting in a white-washed room, whose unac- 
customed glare dazzled his eyes more than the sun dancing on 
a rice-field, he was taken at last before the tuan doktor. The 
tuan doktor diagnosed his case, but being new to the country 
had to rely on a Jaffna Tamil dresser to interpret and explain 
the situation. 

"Tell the man, he will have a house provided, and a 
garden ; and he can fish and do as he likes so long as he does 
not leave the island, and he will not be hurt at all. He can, 
also, write to his friends." 

Alas! the Malay from the ulu gaped at a rush of loud 
whirring vocables and rude breaches of idiom and wondered. 
His wonder grew when he was handed over to the custody of a 
mata-mata. 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Meanwhile the penghulu sought the presence of the District 
Magistrate to report progress. He regretted that only one 
case had been found but he would keep a look-out for the 
future. And would the tuan see the wife and child of the leper 
and explain what was going to be done with her husband. 
She was a woman from up-country and very stupid. The 
magistrate bade him fetch her. He feared an unpleasant 
scene. 

" You know your husband is a leper " — he plunged with 
European bluntness. 

" Perhaps, tuan." Her eyes wandered vaguely but appar- 
ently without interest round the office. 

" Well, it is a rule of the Company that lepers must be 
sent to live alone for fear they infect others. It would never 
do for your little boy to catch it, you know." 

The woman listened ; so far as she could gather, here was 
a white man claiming to be able to worst the world of evil 
spirits. 

" Your man will have house and garden, and fishing net 
given him, plenty of friends and food and clothes and good 
treatment. You need be in no care." 

The toil-worn, sun-burnt face before him stared stolid as 
mahogany. 

" Of course, you can see him before he goes," continued 
the Magistrate. 

Lack of imagination was a veil between her and the blow 
that had fallen. She lived in the past and in the present but 
not in the future. It was high time she got home to drive the 
rats from the rice-bin and the sparrows from the corn. Also, 
the varnished almeirahs, the red screen, the formal orderliness 
of that office seemed strange, cruel, intense to eyes accustomed 
to dust and dun dry wood. The long years to be lived without 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

Hitam had not yet struck home. But for her heart's ease she 
must hurry away from these abnormal surroundings. 

"Never mind," she answered with apathy, "what's the 
use. If the tuan has no further hukum, I and the child will get 
back to the kampong at once." 

" A very stupid person," said the penghulu, when she had 
passed out, "almost mad," 




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THE KING'S HIGH' 



^tfeftJjffl'W) 



i WAY. 




HE MAT was serang and Lebai Hassan 
engineer of a tiny steam-launch that 
fretted and throbbed up and down 
mangrove-fringed back-waters in the 
Malacca Straits. Che Mat was a quite 
elderly Malay with a figure that suffered in symmetry because 
though he could square his shoulders he could no longer 
straighten his back, lumbago having stiffened it at an ungainly 
angle. When he tottered ashore, a cigarette pendulous in his 
gaptoothed jaw and an extra fine greasy satin -slashed cap set 
at a rakish angle on his poll, he looked like a particularly 
cunning, humorous parrot with a spice of recklessness in his 
composition. He had nothing exciting to look forward to, 
unless perhaps it were a writ for debt, a summons for never 
attending mosque, a divorce-case with one of his wives or an 
aggravated land twinge of lumbago, but he titubated with 
ricketty knees over the ashes of life and pleasure with the 
comfortable feeling that he was a dashing ensample for young 
seamen. 

If Che Mat represented the world, Lebai Hassan repre- 
sented religion. It had brought him respect and prosperity. 
By birth, he was what Straits folk dub vaguely a Bengali ; he 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

was reputed to have come from the borders of Assam; and 
had seen China, Australia, Europe even, if rumour were true, 
before fate landed him in those shallow, lifeless lagoons. 
The fires of many stoke-holds had deepened his skin to ebony. 
In nautical blue serge and a peaked cap he looked like an 
oriental avatar of a Salvation Army General. 

"You're a reverend old fellow now," Che Mat would 
criticize, head on one side, " with your long white beard. You 
sit there sewing, sewing the whole day and looking as if ghee 
would not melt in your mouth. But don't tell me ! when you 
were young and ashore in strange countries. Why! I can 
picture you marching into heathen temples in the land of 
Cheena, sweet-heart on arm, and helping her to burn joss 
sticks before dragon idols. But I don't know that it was a 
worse offence than lapping that tinned milk as you do from 
morn till night — milk that we all know is milk of dogs or pigs." 

This trite sally never failed to set the long beard and 
pit-like ebony cheeks moving in expostulation. 

" The tuan knows," he would appeal to me, " and can be 
witness that the milk is pure. What else can I drink at sea ? 
For how can one of my race fare without milk ? As for Che 
Mat, he is a son of perdition and his words slip off me like 
water from a duck's back, but the penghulu (who is also kathi) 
reproached me some while back and we quarrelled so that no 
speech passed between us for six months. ' You account this 
to me for sin,' said I, 'you who know not the world or Europa 
but have lived like a frog under a coconut shell all your life. 
Is it not a greater sin for you to see men of your faith sold up 
for rent, when a few cents given in alms would relieve 
them ? • " 

" I am not surprised he was ruffled," I remarked. 

"Nor am I," said Che Mat, "but folk of the Lebai's race 
have ever a heavy hand and a heavy wit. Please play the 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

frog under the coconut shell yourself, Lebai, while I take 
my medicine," nodding towards a bottle of ' Revolver ' 
Stout. 

The Bengali lived in the present, calculating profits to be 
derived from the cattle that thronged his trampled kampong, 
from fowl, from defoliated palm-leaf shanties he let at an 
exorbitant rental to naked Kling coolies. The old Sevang, 
having no such comfortable stuff for reflection, pondered over 
the past, the follies, joys and experience of his youth. 

One day we had run firmly aground on a mud bank, to 
rest high and dry with a falling tide. 

" Reminds me of the Temenggong's road, this mud," he 
observed at last, having resigned himself to fate, till the tide 
should rise ; " did the tuan ever hear the tale ? It was nigh 
on forty years ago in the mukim where I was born. The Raja 
of course could levy forced labour in those days but I still 
remember how in the case of that accursed road the conditions 
made even us driven sheep feel sore and grumble. Never a 
measure of rice, never a tool provided for us; the road 
through swamp and slush, till we labourers became caked like 
buffaloes in a wallow and the sun baked the mud splashes hard 
and grey, the only dry patches on our bare sweating backs. 
However 'twas hand to forehead in those days, when a chief 
gave orders. And it was by the Raja's own wish, we were 
told, the road was started ; he wanted to show the white man, 
the orang ptiteh, that his ministers knew a thing or two about 
public works. Ya Allah, I laugh now when I think how his 
tuan Enjineer diddled us all, elephant as well as ants, Raja as 
well as poor sweating slaves. He did not drive in a buggy or 
a motor-car, our engineer; he didn't handle any dirty tapes or 
chains, or high-fangled instruments ; and he didn't draw up 
any estimates — except for his own purposes and account 
perhaps. He lolled upriver with a dozen polers pushing his 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

palm-thatched house-boat and called for the village headman 
to go down to them. 

"'To Penghulu,' says he, 'you'll see that these jungle 
pig nose a road through the forest hereabouts. It need not 
be rigidly straight,' he adds, ' a good curve here or there will 
improve its appearance but it must be a mile long by the end 
of the month, for then His Highness will pay a visit.' 

" ' Your pleasure on my head, Temenggong,' answers the 
headman. 

'"And your own comfortably nursed under your arm, 
dato,' quoth the Temenggong, ' your own under your arm so 
far as I am concerned, so long as mine be observed ! ' 

" That was our engineer's only visit till the Raja came a 
month or so later. 

" ' A new road ? ' says His Highness, standing on the 
river-bank, his tasselled spears behind him, 'a very creditable 
piece of work and how did you get the money for it, Temeng- 
gong ? ' 

" ' Pardon, your Highness,' says the Temenggong, 'your 
slave took the liberty of drawing advances against the Chinese 
farmer's rent.' 

" ' How much ? ' asks the Raja, stepping down into his 
barge, ' and how far does the road go ? ' 

" ' Six thousand dollars,' answers the Temenggong, pat 
and bowing, 'and the distance a matter of six miles, your 
Highness, though you cannot judge its length rightly for a 
curve here and there ! ' 

" ' We'll soon be able to rival pulau Pinang,' observes the 
Raja smiling. 

" ' Or London, your Highness,' smiles the Temenggong 
back. 

" It was a matter of six chains long, that road, and had 
cost nothing but the sweat of our brows. Why didn't we 

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MALAYAN MEMORIES. 

shout out the Temenggong's doings to our Raja and so get 
revenge for our hardships? Well, it is hardly discreet for 
mouse-deer to put themselves between fighting elephants, is 
it ? " 

*' Did your work wear well," I enquired, " so far as it 
went ? " 

" I have not seen it these twenty years," he chuckled, 
' but the last time I was there, crabs had thrown up the earth 
in spiral mounds and the tide had broken down its banks and 
softened the soil ; it was for all the world like this slimy mud- 
bank and now," lifting his chin towards the mangroves, " now 
I daresay it is trackless as yonder forest." 



^VQ3^^--^^' 




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HE Laksamana took incense, burnt it, 
and fumigated sacrificial rice. He 
sprinkled the rice on his mat of 
honour ; set up a candle one cubit in 
length, large, round as a man's fore 
arm, with wick as thick as a man's thumb; spriakled the 
candle with parched rice and turmeric and lighted it. Then 
having drawn a white cloth eight cubits long about his head, 
he sat in silence hugging himself from evening until dawn. At 
last, he removed the cloth, and Raja Sri Rama said to him, 
" How, brother ? Does the divination our fathers have taught 
thee foretell that I shall get a son ? " 

The sand-flies stung me like so many fiery pin-pricks into 
sleeplessness. I writhed and longed for that long white cloth 
wherein to wrap myself like the medicine-man in the divina- 
tion ritual of which I had been reading. It was hours since 
the hollow drum of the mosque had called the devout to 
prayer, and hardly a sound broke the stillness save the lapping 
of water against my house-boat as she lay moored on the river, 
committed to the care of the god of mid-currents in the vain 
hope of protection. from insect plague. The moon was at the 



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full, round and clear, making the water shine like a sword and 
lighting fitfully the coconut palm orchards on the bank. One 
cradled in Greek sentiment would think of Diana and shining 
deity roaming where " the dark foliage overhead splinter'd the 
silver arrows of the moon." The Malay mind inherits no such 
beatific vision, but is troubled about ghosts and shadows and 
malignant spectres. 

Suddenly the crazy thud of devil drums broke the silence. 

" One of those medicine-men at his business," ejaculated 
my Malay companion, rousing himself. 

" Can we go and see ? " I asked. 

"We can ask permission, tuan," he replied. "We may 
not get it, because it is a custom that there shall be only the 
same folk present on each night of the performance." 

I despatched a messenger. 

" Have you ever consulted one of these pawang to expel 
an ill of the flesh ?" I asked my companion. 

" Yes," he replied. " My wife was sick and no medicine 
would allay the fever. I did not believe in the business one 
whit, but her friends persuaded me to call a pawang. The tuan 
knows our saying, 'Sulk with one that loves you,' and I gave 
way." 

" Well," I asked, " and then ? " 

"The fellow was a knave. We Malays cannot bear that 
any one should filch part of our body, the clippings of hair or 
nails, for fear the possessor use them to our hurt and cast a 
spell upon us. So, the pawang took my money and ate my 
sireh, and produced a hollow bamboo stoppered at either end. 
Therein, he declared, was hair and a finger-nail of my wife's 
which some enemy had stolen and which was now recovered 
by his magic. On no account, he ordered, was the bamboo to 
be opened. But I, tuan, was unbelieving, risked the harm 
which old folk prophesied, and broke the seals. Now my wife's 

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hair was fine as unwoven silk, and this was as coarse as the 
hair of a horse's tail ; my wife's finger-nail was curved like the 
young moon and delicate as pearl, and this nail was thick as 
the nail on a man's thumb. It is a pity the white man has 
not made a law to clap such rogues in gaol ; but they shall be 
shut in Allah's gaol hereafter, which is much worse. Never 
since have I had truck with medicine-men." 

He laughed. "Not that their charms are always vain. 
Down-stream here at the Three Islands was once a famous 
pawang, and also a husband, who noticed at last, how his wife 
was sick only when he was away ; a dagger-thrust sent that 
pawang home to the mercy of Allah." 

And my friend quoted a trite Malay verse : — 
" What's the use of raiment dainty 
If the raiment be not clean : 
If my mistress be not honest 

What's there in her looks, I ween ? " 

" Not half these pawang," he added, " believe in their own 
power. They seek profit only." 

We talked. And presently my envoy returned with a 
welcome. We climbed the steep bank and set off on a wind- 
ing track beneath the palms, clambering bamboo fences, cross- 
ing ditches on perilous slippery logs and arriving at last at a 
house with a bright light. I stumbled up the round rungs ®f 
the house-ladder into a verandah spread with palm-matting 
and crowded with about twenty persons, the women peering 
furtively from behind grimy patch-work curtains. For light 
and shade the scene might compare with one of Rem- 
brandt's etchings. Onlookers sat dark in the background, the 
figure of the pawang stood out a silhouette before the light of a 
candle near which he squatted ; and the candle-light fell full 
on a man who crouched beside it and on a fellow who beat a 
drum with his hands and chanted in a rapid jerky voice, 

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nodding and bobbing spasmodically the while. Near the candle 
were set a bowl of water, some small saucers of rice and the 
usual betel-boxes. When we arrived, the pawang was said to 
have just revived, and the patient only was supposed to be in 
a trance. For it was the patient who sat brooding over the 
magic candle huddled and looking like a grotesque ruffled 
bird. His head was wrapped in a yellow cloth, because the 
demon possessing him was royal and entitled to the honour of 
that colour. Now and again, the pawang rose from his squat- 
ting position and hovered over his subject, a bunch of coarse 
grass cut square in hand, and when the patient showed signs 
of reviving consciousness, flicked magic water on him with the 
grass brush and then squatting down behind proceeded to beat 
himself on arms and knees back and sides sharply and deci- 
sively with the grass. Presently the patient got stiffly up, 
looking very gloomy, and with faltering foot-steps made his 
way to the corner, where he lay on a mat. 

The pawang now sat down before the candle, scattered 
rice and dipping his grass into the bowl of water brushed him- 
self. The bidnan or musician chanted lustily. The pawang, 
holding the grass bunch with stiff extended arm straight in 
front of him and before the candle, stared fixedly and began to 
grow rigid. Two sturdy fellows stretched out arms to support 
him, while the spirit entered his body. He made believe to 
swoon ; revived and talked with the musician or rather the spirit 
talked, asking what was wanted of him. The bidmn chanted 
how sick the man was, how near to death, how great his 
agony : — 

" Skin and bone and joint and vein 
Flesh, blood, heart, spleen, racked with pain." 

The spirit answered. His fault also was great, and he, 'to 
Megat, born of royal mother but humble father, could not 

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minister to the disease: for the patient had cut down a 
forest tree sacred to a powerful hantu. The Raja Jin must be 
invoked to aid. He ceased to speak. The pawang's head sank 
on his breast ; the biduan chanted frantically : — 

" Home, we pray thee, spirit, to thy palace 

If of mountain, home to mountain. 

If of hill, home to hill. 

If of forest, home to forest. 

If of mere, home to mere. 

If of shore, home to shore. 

Home to the navel of the sea and the tree Janggi ; 

Send no hurt, no harm, no fever 

On head of wizard and folk present." 
Suddenly with a convulsive shudder the pawang threw up 
head and hands, scattering rice from his brush all over the 
room ; 'to Megat was taking his departure with a most uncanny 
rustle of grass and rice. 

Then began the invocation to the Raja Jin. The pawang 
went through the same performance, the stiffness, the rigidity 
again hands were stretched out to support him while the spirit 
entered and possessed his body. At last the Raja Jin spoke 
through his medium, but reluctantly and chidingly. Why was 
not due preparation made against his coming ? Why, when he 
came last night had no hospitality been shown him ? Surely 
there was sireh in the house? Let them give him some at 
once. Forthwith some one got up and prepared a leaf with 
lime betel-nut and tobacco and presented it to the pawang 
Again (through the toothless old pawang) the Jin grumbled. 
" What manner of men are these that they do not consider 
old age and its wants ? I am a Jin stricken in years and tooth- 
less and yet ye give me betel uncrushed. It is time that I 
hied ye home." 

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Hastily someone crushed the sireh and offered it again. 
The biduan chanted wildly beseeching him to help them in 
their need. The pawang chewed the betel. 

At last, the Jin spoke. " The sin of the sick man is in- 
deed heinous and no drug can cure his illness. There is but 
one remedy. Ye must appease the spirit whom he has angered. 
To-morrow, ye must set afloat upon the river a lanchang." 

His verdict given, the Jin was exhorted to leave the 
pmwang's body just as 'to Megat had been exhorted and took 
his departure in the same convulsive rustling fashion. 

The ceremony was over. The sick man looked more 
hopeful and ate a little sireh. Neighbours began to return 
homewards. Unfortunately I could not stay on the morrow to 
see that miniature boat decked with coconut streamers and 
laden with fruit food and a few pence ; set then to float down- 
stream with appropriate invocations to bear away as soon as 
possible its malicious spirit captain. 

" Peace be to thee, ocean captain ! 

Not of common sort thy craft is, 

Ivory-painted, yellow-gilded : 

Mast of her a prince's watch-tower. 

Shrouds of her of sheeted silver, 

Oars like centipedes in number, 

Rail at stern like civet's bristles. 

Rudder hanging large like bees' nest, 

Balc'nies curv'd like writhing serpents. 

Pennons flap against her cabin, 

Wave her streamers in the breezes. 

Master come ! The hour's auspicious. 

Heave her anchor ! Spread her canvas. 

Turn her helm. Pull off, ye oarsmen. 

Whither bound ? To ocean's navel, 

Where the tree pauh janggi stands. 

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Sport, O craft, with waves and breakers : 
Be not slothful, be not laggard. 
Hasten, swagger ocean captain : 
Linger not by reach or bight ; 
Dally not with bride or. mistress ; 
Come, thy bark thy home is ready." 
As we went back in the moonlight to the river and our 
boat, I turned to one of my boatmen and said : — 

" Kaniu juga perchaya ; do you also believe that a man 
may offend a spirit, by felling a tree of the forest ? " 

" Of a truth," he answered, " the men of all Perak kam- 
pongs think so. Does the tuan know the tualang tree, the tree 
where the wild bee builds his nest ? It is said that once a man 
climbed such a tree, bag in hand, to collect honey and lo, the 
tree-spirit cut him so at knee and thigh and elbow, that men 
swore he was in pieces, and that they saw the pieces in the 
man's bag ; the spirit had placed them there, and thrown the 
bag to the foot of the tree. Howbeit a pawang restored the 
man and made him whole. If such be the punishment for but 
gathering honey, what shall be that for felling the trunk ? " 

And I could see that my boatmen felt it indiscreet to talk 
of such matters at midnight, under the shadows. 




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HAMLET 




HE theatre is a palm-thatched barn; 
the pit serried rows of forms, the 
stalls a sanded space divided off by 
bunting and furnished with bentwood 
Austrian chairs ; the ladies' gallery a 
scaffolded loft. On the left of the stalls is a refreshment bar 
or trestle, whereon are displayed Burma cheroots, " Cycle " 
cigarettes and drinks of terribly bright colour. The drop- 
curtain displays the soul-satisfying spectacle of a street of 
shops in impossible perspective, and the wings are adorned 
with cold-clay winged figures petrified apparently against a 
background of Reckitt's blue ; a scroll above the curtain bears 
the legend " King Edward's heart-soothing play company." 

It must be premised that all bangsawan pieces are operatic. 
Ali Baba, Cinderella, the ghost of Hamlet's father must tiptoe 
trip and stalk to the music of a couple of fiddles, a drum and 
a small harmonium ; it may be, to a Malay air low and 
languishing or to the livelier strains of a piece out of " The 
Country Girl," or "The Geisha," or to the tune of "Daisy 
Belle." All Malays have music at their finger-tips and the 
orchestra plays by ear and plays tolerably well. Consequent 

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on the operatic nature of the play comes a disregard for letter- 
press. No attempt is made at exact translation of the pieces. 
Scenes that strike the Malay imagination are picked out for 
what we may call execution in detail, while minor scenes and 
minor characters are omitted and the breaks slurred over by a 
kind of chorus song before the curtain. Superfluous people 
like Bernardo and Francesco, scenes that offend Malay taste 
or superstition like the grave-digger scene, or the scene where 
Hamlet upbraids his mother, all 'these are banished from the 
boards of a bangsawan. 

The curtain rises on a room in the palace, represented by 
a canvas back-ground painted with yellow bricks, blue square- 
paned windows and red hangings. A high dais serves for the 
throne and Windsor chiirs are placed for Queen and Council- 
lors. The King of Denmark, arrayed in a costume which but 
for black spectacles, might be that of a circus performer, pulls 
terrific moustaches, sings of his estate and degree and the 
incident of his recent marriage; then sinks into prose and 
addresses the Queen, a half-caste Dutch girl, and Polonius, a 
bearded vizier in turban spangled velvet coat and carpet- 
slippers. He expresses fears for Hamlet's sanity and 
Polonius with an obsequious shuffle of carpet-slippers and due 
pulling of beard hurries off to inquire into the business. The 
curtain falls. A clown dressed as a pantaloon comes forward 
and sings a nonsense song, just to introduce himself. 

The next scene is a garden (darkened by withdrawal 
of lamps up to the very roof) with a large coffin or box on 
trestles in the centre. The clown enters and goes to sleep at 
the foot of the trestles. The orchestra plays slow music. 
The ghost of Hamlet's father, a fearful figure in white, with 
ghastly chalked face, comes from behind the coffin and 
executes a slow dance between a minuet and a cake-walk. 
The clown wakes and rolls himself head over heels across the 

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stage in terror. The ghost pays no heed. When the ghost's 
slow cake-walk and the clown's paroxysms are beginning 
to tire, suddenly the ghost vanishes behind the coffin, the 
clown jumps up opens the side of the box and peeps. Ham- 
let's father lies inside, a decorous corpse. The clown shuts the 
box, opens it again. The corpse has gone. Exit clown in a 
panic-stricken skelter. The curtain falls. The clown comes 
before it and sings a song to the effect that this is no place for 
him and that he will fetch Hamlet. 

The curtain rises on the same scene, but now the stage is 
crowded. There is Hamlet, a Malay girl in green plush 
breeches pumps and a Cavalier hat; there are the clown, 
Polonius, and presumably Horatio, a gentleman dressed in a 
sergeant's khaki uniform and football boots and brandishing a 
scimitar. The word "Company" is, of course, commonly used 
by Malays to mean the Government ; Horatio turns to Hamlet 
and with a flourish of scimitar and urban materialism 
exclaims, " Sa-lama sahaya makan gaji Company, belum pepiah 
sahaya lihat hantu" ("all the years I've been in the police 
force, I've never seen a ghost "). But the ghost of Hamlet's 
father is in no mood for braggadocio, minuets out from 
behind the coffin and so terrifies Horatio that he drops his 
scimitar and grovels. The clown suffers a return of his 
previous paroxysms. Hamlet, with feminine curiosity and a 
fine affectation of unconcern plucks at the ghost's sleeve and 
makes him unfold his story, which he does in sepulchral tones. 
The ghost vanishes. Hamlet sinks on her knees and sings a 
song of lament with the Muhammadan refrain, la Illahi lah-i. 

The curtain falls. Hamlet comes before it and sings how 
a play shall be devised to prick the king's conscience. 

Then we have the "dumb-show" of Shakespeare's play 
and the poisoning of the sleeper in the ear. Hamlet roams 
about and takes the audience into her confidence with lifted 

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finger and eager smile, as who shall say " I am a very clever 
girl," The clown watches the faces of King Claudius and 
Queen Gertrude, and opens his mouth in idiotic glee as he 
detects their exaggerated agitation. Exeunt omnes. The 
clown sings a song. 

Once more we are in the palace. The King Queen and 
Polonius are in consultation. The King says Hamlet is 
moody and must marry. Polonius fetches Ophelia, an extra- 
ordinarily plain Ophelia. Hamlet strolls on to the stage and 
hotly refuses to marry the lady, singing of his dislike and 
finally spitting at and spurning her. This scene is very 
spirited and effective, as the ladies playing the parts of Hamlet 
and Ophelia are rival prima donnas and jealous. But now 
poor Ophelia is debarred from retort other than a plaintive 
lament ; leaves the stage and apparently lacks heart even to fall 
into a pond; for no more is heard of her. Then the King 
enters and explains how, when he prayed to a spirit of omnipo- 
tence and righteousness — Dewa yang maha sakti dan maha 
sttchi — he felt repentance : 

" Try what repentance can : what can it not ? 
Yet what can it, when one cannot repent." 

He addresses a Dewa, one of the Hindu cosmogony, 
because it would be profane to talk of stage prayer to Allah. 
Hamlet, with an attitude and a tin scimitar, makes passes at 
his back, and then, hand on heart, turns to the audience 
and sings in a loud voice (inaudible to the King) the usual 
tag of Malay opera, 

Baik-lah kami per-rag-i (^pergi) ; 

Apa-hah guna di-sini lagi ? 

The remaining scenes are slurred and mostly omitted till 

we come to a last scene of indiscriminate slaughter; for "that 

fell sergeant, death, is strict in his arrest " on the Malay stage. 

Hamlet and Laertes fence, whirling round weaponless face to 

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face and back to back alternately, till Laertes falls by the 
deadliness of Hamlet's magic. The Quj&en drinks poison. 
The King is stabbed by Hamlet and dW! Hamlet comes to 
the front of the stage, turns and looks at the strewn corpses 
and then, with a seraphic feminine smile and great delicacy of 
touch draws the scimitar across her throat and falls dead too. 
Polonius, who has been spared his proper fate, stands pulling 
and wagging a grey beard over the dead. 

It is an odd performance, bizarre scenery, strangely 
translated plot : but interesting, perhaps, as a perverted example 
of Shakespeare's world-wide popularity. I have seen women 
weep at the pity of the tragedy, though that, to be sure, was 
not at the pathetic cadence of a line or any turn of the 
plot, but when the ghost of Hamlet's father was stalking 
across the boards, and again, when the "dumb-show" poison 
was poured into the old King's ear ! 




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